USTR 
 
 - 
 
&ERKEIEY 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF 
 CALIFORhHA 
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 AGRICULTURE 
 BEQUEST 
 
 OF 
 ANITA D. S. BLAKE 
 

 

MISS PARLOA'S 
 
 KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 A GUIDE FOR ALL WHO WOULD BE 
 GOOD HOUSEKEEPERS. 
 
 BY 
 
 MARIA PARLOA, 
 
 FOUNDER OF THE ORIGINAL COOKING-SCHOOL IN BOSTON ; PRINCIPAL 
 OF THE SCHOOL OF COOKERY IN NEW YORK; AND AUTHOR OF 
 
 "MISS PARLOA'S NEW COOK-BOOK," "THE APPLEDORE 
 
 COOK-BOOK," " FIRST PRINCIPLES OF HOUSEHOLD 
 
 MANAGEMENT," " CAMP COOKERY," ETC. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 BOSTON: 
 ESTES AND LAURIAT. 
 

 Copyright, 1887, 
 BY MARIA PARLOA, 
 
 AGRICUI.TI IRE 
 
 GIFT 
 
 SHntfartattg 
 JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE. 
 

 PREFACE. 
 
 A LARGE part of my leisure time in the last few years 
 has been passed in working on this book, which it has 
 been my ambition to make of real and lasting value to 
 all who may use it. Those who are familiar with my 
 other cook-books will see that this one contains not 
 only many hundred new receipts, but a number of 
 chapters on important subjects treated only briefly, if 
 at all, in my earlier works. My publishers' liberality 
 in regard to illustrations and the size of the book has 
 enabled me to give a more comprehensive volume than 
 it has ever before been my privilege to prepare, and 
 one which I hope may be found a trusty guide for all 
 who are travelling on the road to good housekeeping. 
 
 To two things let me call special attention: First, 
 do not undertake to cook a new dish until you have 
 carefully read the receipt at least once ; and secondly, 
 do not be discouraged by failure in first experiments. 
 
 By means of the asterisk (*) ths plain receipts have 
 been distinguished from those for rich food ; therefore 
 housekeepers in search of the former can find them at 
 a glance. 
 
 139 
 
iv PREFACE. 
 
 To quote from the preface of my last work : " After 
 much consideration it was decided to be right to call 
 particular attention in different parts of the book to 
 certain manufactured articles. Lest her motive should 
 be misconstrued, or unfair criticisms be made, the author 
 would state that there is not a word.of praise which is 
 not merited, and every line of commendation appears 
 utterly without the solicitation, suggestion, or knowledge 
 of anybody likely to receive pecuniary benefit there- 
 from." This statement applies to the present book as 
 well as to the last. 
 
 That the KITCHEN COMPANION may prove a welcome 
 visitor to thousands of households throughout the land, 
 is the parting wish with which it is sent before the 
 public. 
 
 M. P. 
 
 NEW YORK, March, 1887. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 AN IDEAL KITCHEN. 
 
 PAOB 
 
 Plans to attain the greatest convenience. Where the pantry, 
 china-closet, and storerooms should be located 9 
 
 KITCHEN FURNISHING. 
 
 A list of articles needed. Descriptions of many new and useful 
 inventions 29 
 
 CARE OF UTENSILS. 
 How to keep them in good condition for years 58 
 
 ABOUT FOOD. 
 
 Advice in regard to marketing and gardening. When various 
 articles of food are in their prime. Canned goods ... 66 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 Best methods of obtaining stock. Processes of clarifying. 
 More than a hundred receipts for soups 104 
 
 FISH. 
 
 How to clean it. Directions for filleting. Many excellent 
 modes of cooking 170 
 
 VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 
 
 Boiling, broiling, frying, and roasting. Valuable advice to 
 young housekeepers, and helpful reminders for those that 
 are experienced 232 
 
vi CONTENTS. 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 PAGE 
 A great variety of toothsome dishes. Croquettes, timbales, 
 
 fritters, patties, vol-au-vents, etc 307 
 
 CHEESE DISHES. 
 
 Numerous good ways to cook cheese. How rare-bits, puffs, 
 straws, and other dainties are made 399 
 
 DISHES OF EGGS. 
 
 Why eggs are often indigestible. The right way to boil them. 
 
 The art of making an omelet 406 
 
 SALADS. 
 
 Delicacies which every housekeeper should provide. Full in- 
 formation about all kinds 426 
 
 GARNISHES. 
 
 Ways to improve the appearance of soups and dishes of fish 
 and meat 440 
 
 MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. 
 
 A branch of cookery with which all housekeepers should be 
 familiar. Numerous receipts for old and new sauces . . 462 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 When various kinds are best, and how they may be most pala- 
 tably cooked and appropriately served 489 
 
 SPECIAL ARTICLES. 
 
 Brioche paste. Curry-powder and its uses. Various ways of 
 using a calfs head. The warming over of meats. A boiled 
 dinner. A salt-fish dinner 546 
 
 A GROUP OF SIMPLE DISHES. 
 
 die-cakes, mush, toast, short-cake, and other good things 
 for breakfast and tea . . 569 
 
CONTENTS. vii 
 
 PIES. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Puff paste and plain paste, and what each is used for. Mince- 
 meat. Pies and tarts 584 
 
 PUDDINGS. 
 
 Many kinds, both hot and cold, and excellent sauces to go 
 with them 603 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 Ice-cream, sherbet, jellies, and many other delicacies . . . 674 
 
 CAKE. 
 
 Plain and rich kinds in abundance. Directions for making 
 and using icing 742 
 
 BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 
 
 An important department. Advice about yeast, and receipts 
 for bread in all its forms 780 
 
 BEVERAGES. 
 
 The cup that cheers. Why it is often disappointing, Ap- 
 proved ways of making coffee, chocolate, and cocoa . . . 818 
 
 PRESERVING. 
 
 When it should be done. The utensils needed. How various 
 kinds of pickles are made 827 
 
 FOOD FOR THE SICK. 
 
 What to provide, and the best modes of serving. Receipts 
 for gruels and kindred things, besides dainties to arouse an 
 appetite 852 
 
 WHAT ALL HOUSEKEEPERS SHOULD KNOW. 
 
 Points which will help one to avoid failures and disappoint- 
 ment, to economize, and to do many perplexing things 
 quickly and well 87; 
 
Vlii CONTENTS. 
 
 BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 PAGE 
 An extensive collection, suited to all occasions, What to serve 
 
 at weddings, parties, gentlemen's suppers, etc. Thanks- 
 giving, Christmas, and Lenten fare 898 
 
 INDEX 915 
 
 NOTE. 
 
 The receipts which are starred (*) are for simple dishes. 
 
 
MISS PARLOA'S 
 KITCHEN COMPANION 
 
 AN IDEAL KITCHEN. 
 
 How few people who build houses give proper atten- 
 tion to the plan and construction of the kitchen ! Pains 
 may be taken to have the exterior of the building attrac- 
 tive, the halls broad, the parlors spacious and finely fin- 
 ished, the dining-room bright and inviting, the chambers 
 airy and sunny, but the plan of the kitchen generally 
 receives much less thought than its importance deserves, 
 if one be seeking to make the house as nearly perfect as 
 is practicable. The trouble is not wholly due to UI-K 
 willingness to expend more money than may have been 
 at first appropriated. A little extra thought alone is 
 needed to effect many improvements on the average 
 kitchen when a house is in process of construction, but 
 this extra thought usually is missing. Of course, in 
 order to have a model kitchen, one must be willing to 
 pay a good price for it ; yet the price will not be so high 
 that one will ever regret the expenditure ; indeed, most 
 persons will promptly admit that the money has been 
 used as profitably as that used for any other part of 
 the house. The object of this chapter is to show how 
 a model kitchen may be arranged; and although few 
 people may adopt the recommendations as a whole, it 
 
10 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 BAC_K OOOB 
 
 STAI R S 
 
 RUOM 
 
 PANTRY. 
 
 KlTCHCN. 
 
 SITTING ROOM. 
 
 DINING ROOM 
 
 is hoped that every reader may find some suggestions of 
 value, to be followed whether the house be already built 
 or yet to be erected. 
 
 The first matter to be considered is the size of the 
 room. While it is important to have ample space for 
 range, sink, dresser, tables, and chairs, and for free move- 
 
AN IDEAL KITCHEN. 11 
 
 ments, it also is important to avoid having the room so 
 large as to oblige one to take many steps to and from 
 range, sink, table, and pantry. A good size is 16 X 16 
 or 15 x 17 feet. 
 
 Be particular to have the ventilation as good as possi- 
 ble ; for the comfort of not only those who have duties 
 in the kitchen, but of the entire household, is in a meas- 
 ure dependent upon it. If the ventilation be poor, the 
 strength of those who work in the room will needlessly 
 become exhausted, and they are likely to get irritated 
 easily. Moreover, odors of cooking will escape to other 
 parts of the house instead of passing to the open air. 
 The room should be high, and have large windows that 
 can be raised or dropped easily. If the kitchen be 
 located in a one-story extension, almost perfect ventila- 
 tion may be secured by means of a ventilator in the roof 
 or by a skylight; or it may be found easy to have a 
 ventilator placed in the chimney. If expense be no 
 obstacle, it will be well to have a separate chimney for 
 the kitchen, as this is one of the surest ways of prevent- 
 ing odors of food from reaching other rooms. Although 
 cAe room may be admirably arranged and finished, it will 
 not be a model apartment unless there be good ventila- 
 tion and an abundance of light. Most kitchens have 
 some dark corners, but there should be none. 
 
 Excepting the ceilings, every part of the room, as well 
 as of the pantry and the adjoining closets, should be fin- 
 ished in a way that permits of washing. A hard-wood 
 floor is desirable. Avoid spruce. Hard pine, if care- 
 fully selected, makes a good floor ; but the best wood is 
 maple or birch, in strips not more than three inches 
 wide. If soft wood be used, splinters will in time get 
 torn up. Oil-cloth often is used for covering the floor. 
 It may look bright and clean, but is too cold, and fre- 
 quently causes rheumatism. Lignum, which somewhat 
 resembles oil-cloth, but is thicker and warmer, is as good 
 a covering as can be found. It is clean and durable. 
 
12 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Tiles are sometimes recommended for the floor of a 
 kitchen ; they can be kept clean and will wear well, but 
 they tire the feet, and for that reason should not be 
 used. 
 
 It is well to have the woodwork in a kitchen oiled. A 
 wainscot is desirable. Have the walls painted a rather 
 light color. If one can afford it, the walls about the 
 range and sink should be tiled. At the outset tiles may 
 appear costly, but after experience one finds it is really 
 a saving to use them. They can easily be kept perfectly 
 clean, and will last as long as the house itself. English 
 or Dutch tiles should be used, and there is nothing more 
 appropriate than the blue and white. The price for fur- 
 nishing and setting such tiles is from seventy cents to a 
 dollar per square foot. Probably the time will come 
 when nobody will think of finishing a house without 
 them. 
 
 Do not be satisfied with a small sink. Have one of 
 good size, and of iron, with a sloping and grooved shelf 
 at one end, on which to drain dishes after washing them. 
 Let the sink rest on iron legs. The space under it should 
 not be enclosed, as every dark place is a source of temp- 
 tation to a slovenly domestic. 
 
 One caution in regard to the sink : have the strainer 
 screwed down firm. Anything that will not pass through 
 the strainer should not go into the pipes. The hinged or 
 loose strainer gives but little protection, as the temp- 
 tation to lift it and let sediment pass through is very 
 great. With an immovable strainer and the use, once 
 a fortnight, of the hot solution of soda described in the 
 chapter on " Care of Utensils," there will be no trouble 
 with pipes, unless it be caused by wear or freezing. 
 After using the hot soda, flush the pipes with cold 
 water. This plan has been followed in the care of the 
 plumbing of a large house for many years, with the 
 most satisfactory results. Put hooks under the sink, for 
 dish-cloths, dish-pans, etc. Unless there be tiles above, 
 
AN IDEAL KITCHEN. 
 
 13 
 
 ROLLER FOR TOWEL 
 
 ABOVE QROOVEO 
 
 DRAINING BOARD. 
 
 TO HALL 
 
 AND 
 
 MAIN PART or HOUSE. 
 
 below, and at the sides of the sink, all this space should 
 be finished in hard wood. If tiles be used, have a broad 
 capping of hard wood extend across the upper edge of 
 the top row, in which to place brass hooks for the various 
 small utensils in frequent use at the sink. 
 
14 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Between the doors leading to the china closet and the 
 hall have a dresser. Here can be kept the kitchen table- 
 ware and some utensils. Near the back part of each 
 shelf have a groove, so that plates and platters may be 
 placed on edge without danger of their falling. There 
 also should be two drawers, and below the drawers two 
 closets containing shelves. The doors of the upper part 
 of the dresser should be made in part of glass, and in- 
 stead of swinging on hinges they should slide one in 
 front of the other. 
 
 Allow enough room for the tables, so as to avoid 
 crowding and confusion when a meal is being prepared 
 or served. Swinging tables are convenient, as they oc- 
 cupy no space when not in use. At one end of the sink 
 have a table, about 2 X 3 feet, containing one drawer 
 for knives, forks, and spoons, and one for towels. This 
 table should be placed on castors, so that it can easily 
 be moved to the centre of the room. There should be 
 a small table, about the height of the range, for use as a 
 resting-place for utensils when omelets, waffles, griddle- 
 cakes, etc., are made. Its top should be covered with 
 zinc. When not in use this table may be moved to some 
 other part of the room. There should be one more table 
 in the kitchen, between two windows if the space will 
 permit, a settle table, which serves as a seat when 
 not in use for ironing or some other purpose. Above 
 the table have two shelves, one for a clock, and the 
 other for cook-books, the grocer's and marketman's order- 
 books, etc. It is a good idea to have the corners of all 
 the tables rounded, so that nobody shall be hurt by 
 striking against them. 
 
 Have broad window-seats, in order to keep a few pots 
 of flowers, herbs, or other plants in the room. Flowers 
 brighten a kitchen wonderfully, and seem to grow better 
 there than in any other part of the house. One other 
 point about the windows : they should be supplied with 
 wire screens in summer. Swarms of flies will get in 
 
AN IDEAL KITCHEN. 
 
 15 
 
 f 
 
 ^ 
 
 f 
 
16 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 unless this precaution be taken. The same barrier is 
 needed at the outside door as much as at the windows. 
 
 The most important piece of furniture is the range. 
 Many housekeepers find it difficult to decide which is 
 better, a set or a portable range. Each has merits. Less 
 room is required for set ranges; broiling and roasting 
 can be done before the fire, and a constant supply of 
 hot water is insured. But set ranges are rather slow to 
 respond to draughts and checks ; they consume a great 
 
 deal of coal ; the hearth becomes hot, and uncomfortable 
 to stand on ; and there is but one side of the range to 
 approach, which necessitates the frequent lifting and 
 moving of heavy utensils. 
 
 Now, a portable range can be so placed as to permit 
 of one's walking almost around it ; it can be used as 
 advantageously as a set range, with about half the same 
 quantity of coal ; there is a prompt response to the 
 opening or closing of a draught ; one's feet do not get 
 heated by standing near it ; there are no dark corners ; 
 the need of moving utensils is to a large extent avoided, 
 and it can be so managed that there shall be a hot oven 
 at any time of the day. But roasting must be done in 
 
AN IDEAL KITCHEN. 17 
 
 the oven, and broiling over the coals, and the supply of 
 hot water is limited. 
 
 With a set range there must be a broad hearth of tiles, 
 slate, or best face-brick. If a portable range be used, 
 only a large piece of zinc will be required under it. 
 
 THE PANTRY. 
 
 And now the pantry. It should be about 12 x 8 feet. 
 The window should have a wire screen, and inside fold- 
 ing blinds will be found a great convenience, indeed, 
 they are a necessity. A large, strong table, containing 
 two drawers, should be placed at this window. There 
 should be hooks at the ends of the table, from which to 
 suspend the pastry-board, the board on which cold meats 
 are cut, arid that on which bread and cake are cut. In 
 one drawer the rolling-pin, knives, pastry and cake 
 cutters, and a few other utensils may be kept ; and in the 
 other drawer, spices, flavoring extracts, etc. 
 
 At one end of the room the wall should be covered 
 with hooks on which to hang . saucepans. At the same 
 end, about a foot from the floor, there should be a broad 
 shelf on which to keep heavy pots and kettles, turned 
 upside down to keep out dust. Two feet above this 
 shelf there should be a narrow one for the covers of the 
 utensils just mentioned. By following this plan one 
 can keep all these articles together and always in sight, 
 and no time need be lost in searching for any of them. 
 
 There will be space in this end of the room for small 
 shelves for the glass jars in which to keep materials 
 used frequently, such as tapioca, barley, rice, baking- 
 powder, soda, cream-of-tartar, ginger, split peas, etc. 
 Here, also, may be kept small pasteboard boxes contain- 
 ing herbs. 
 
 In the window-frame put brass hooks, on which to 
 hang the egg-beater, spoons, graded measuring-cups, a 
 whisk, etc. 
 
18 
 
 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 At the lower end of the pantry have a strong rack, 
 a few inches from the floor, on which to place flour- 
 barrels. This plan insures the circulation of air under 
 the barrels, keeping their contents sweet. About a foot 
 above the barrels have a wall closet, with shelves about 
 twenty inches wide. This should be supplied with a 
 lock, as it is designed for keeping cooked food and such 
 
 groceries as raisins, currants, and citron, in glass jars, 
 besides fresh fruit. The door or doors should be made 
 partly of wire. 
 
 Extending the length of one side of the room have a 
 tier of shelves, beginning about a foot from the floor and 
 running as high as the top of the wall closet. Tin cans 
 of meal und sugar, stone jars of salt, and jugs of molas- 
 ses and vinegar may be kept on the lower shelves ; and 
 mixing-bowls, mixing-pans, stone-china measuring-cups, 
 etc., indeed, all utensils for which no other place has 
 been provided, may be kept on the upper shelves. 
 
AN IDEAL KITCHEN. 19 
 
 In some place near the door of the pantry have a hook 
 or a roller for a towel, in order to avoid taking steps 
 across the kitchen whenever the hands require wiping. 
 
 Now, if a kitchen and pantry be built or reconstructed 
 on this plan, the cooking can be done with comfort, and 
 the washing of dishes will not seem so burdensome as 
 it does in the ordinary kitchen. Even if one find it 
 impracticable to follow all or many of the suggestions 
 made, pains ought to be taken whatever the plan of the 
 kitchen be to concentrate the work, obtain good light, 
 good ventilation, and ample table-room ; and all meas- 
 ures which are calculated to insure cleanliness and to 
 make the kitchen an attractive place should be adopted. 
 There must be a closet near by for brooms, brushes, 
 dusters, etc. ; and there should be a cold room near the 
 kitchen, in which to keep most of the perishable stores. 
 In case there be no room of this kind, it will be well to 
 keep the refrigerator in the pantry. 
 
 THE STOREROOM. 
 
 A storeroom well arranged and properly managed is 
 a source of economy, security, and comfort to a house- 
 keeper. It should be kept locked except when stores 
 are being put in or taken out. Light should be fur- 
 nished by a small window. For a household of moderate 
 size a room 7x5 feet will suffice. In the ground-plan 
 given on page 10 no provision is made for such a room 
 on the first floor, but there would be space for one if the 
 china closet were made smaller and there were no closets 
 in the back hall. 
 
 Broad shelves should run all round the room, and 
 there should be a movable set of broad, firm steps say 
 two or three steps for use in reaching the upper 
 shelves. The floor and shelves should be planed smooth, 
 that there may be no grooves nor defective places where 
 any substance which may be spilled will lodge, giving 
 
20 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 a disagreeable odor to the room. The shelves must be 
 made strong, so that no danger shall arise from putting 
 a great weight of stores on them. A tier of three shelves 
 will be enough. Have a space of about twenty inches 
 between the shelves. Do not have any of the woodwork 
 painted. The walls may be plastered or sheathed. If 
 plastered, they may be whitened each spring, if neces- 
 sary. This will freshen and sweeten the room. The 
 shelves and floor may be cleaned once a month, and the 
 other woodwork washed twice a year. Care must be 
 taken not to use much water. The room should be kept 
 dry, as well as clean, cool, and dark. 
 
 Use the lower shelves for such supplies as are fre- 
 quently drawn upon, and the upper ones for those stores 
 which are used the least. On the upper shelves there 
 may also be kept such kitchen utensils as may be re- 
 quired to replace those which become worthless, such 
 as bowls and cups, saucepans, etc., which a wise house- 
 keeper will always keep in reserve. 
 
 If flour be kept in a barrel in the storeroom, there 
 should be a strong rack, a few inches from the floor (as 
 recommended for the pantry), on which to place the 
 barrel ; the idea being to get a free circulation of air 
 under the barrel and prevent dampness. Such grocer- 
 ies as molasses, granulated sugar, vinegar, wine, cider, 
 washing-soda, etc., may be kept on the floor. A strip 
 of wood into which are screwed half a dozen or more 
 hooks, may be fastened (5n one side of the room, and 
 on it can be hung the brushes, brooms, etc., required to 
 replace those which become worn out. 
 
 Following is a list of supplies which should be kept 
 in the storeroom. In sections of the country where such 
 articles as shrimp and lobster can always be found fresh 
 it will not be necessary to use canned goods. Again, in 
 those places where fish and oysters are never found 
 fresh, it is well, on account of the saving in cost, 
 to buy them ,by the quantity, as one would buy canned 
 
AN IDEAL KITCHEN. 21 
 
 peas, tomatoes, mushrooms, etc. In some parts of the 
 country the people depend almost wholly upon condensed 
 milk rather than upon the fresh fluid. If canned milk 
 must be used, a considerable saving can be made by buy- 
 ing a large quantity at one time. Then, too, if one be so 
 placed that it would not be possible to obtain an extra 
 quantity of milk in an emergency, it will be well to keep 
 a few cans of condensed milk on hand. 
 
 Time and money will be saved by purchasing by the 
 dozen such canned goods as peas, tomatoes, mushrooms, 
 peaches, apricots, as well as gelatine, etc. Soap and 
 Sapolio, candles and starch, all should be bought by the 
 box. It is well to have peas of two qualities, the 
 small French peas for use as a vegetable, and the larger 
 and cheaper kind for making soups and purees. Truffles, 
 caviare, sardines, anchovies in various forms, and a few 
 other things, are luxuries in which many housekeepers 
 never indulge ; and in any case a small can or bottle 
 is all that one will require in a storeroom, provided one 
 lives in or near a large city where such articles can be 
 obtained. 
 
 In the list of supplies which follows these remarks 
 are mentioned many things not actually essential, but 
 which are very useful in giving variety to the fare. It 
 may surprise some readers that dried or smoked fish, 
 ham, bacon, salt pork, brown soap, and some other arti- 
 cles are not included in the list. The reason is, that 
 they have moisture or a strong odor, two things to be 
 avoided in a storeroom where delicate groceries are kept. 
 A cold room where there is a free circulation of air is 
 a better place for them. 
 
 Experience has proved that tin boxes are the best 
 receptacles for all kinds of food that would attract mice 
 or weevils. Tin boxes are, to be sure, much more expen- 
 sive than wooden buckets ; but as they are lasting and 
 perfectly secure, it is, in the end, economical to buy 
 them. Each box should be labelled ; and if they be 
 
22 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 made to order, it will be well to have the labels painted 
 on them at the time. Such boxes as cracker-manufac- 
 turers use will answer for this purpose, and a house- 
 keeper may obtain them through her grocer if no more 
 convenient way presents itself. When made to order, 
 tin boxes are expensive. 
 
 first Shelf. Graham, corn meal, both white and yel- 
 low, oatmeal, rye meal, hominy, buckwheat, rice, soda, 
 crearn-of-tartar, tapioca, powdered and block sugar, dried 
 peas, beans, barley, picked raisins, currants that have 
 been cleaned, eggs, cheese, gelatine, tea, coffee, chocolate, 
 starch, bluing, candles; all the articles, except the last 
 three and the gelatine, to be kept in tin boxes. 
 
 Second Shelf. Olive oil, vanilla, lemon, orange, and 
 almond extracts, Santa Cruz rum, eau-de-vie de Dantzic, 
 maraschino, brandy, white wine, tarragon vinegar, olives, 
 capers, liquid rennet, table salt, macaroni, spaghetti, 
 vermicelli, crackers, lime-water, stove-polish, Sapolio, 
 Castile soap, toilet soap, chloride of lime. 
 
 Preserved ginger, pickles, anchovy paste, chutney 
 sauce, extract of meat in small jars, arrowroot, corn- 
 starch, potted ham, tongue, and chicken, French paste 
 for coloring soups and sauces, devilled ham, anchovies 
 in oil and in salt, Russian caviare, sardines, orange mar- 
 malade, jellies, canned and preserved fruits, almonds, 
 citron, candied lemon and orange peel, tomato, walnut, 
 and mushroom ketchup, essence of anchovy, curry-pow- 
 der, white and red pepper, essence of shrimp, Worcester- 
 shire or Leicestershire sauce, and these whole spices, 
 nutmegs, cloves, cinnamon, mace, allspice, pepper-corns, 
 and ginger ; these ground spices, mace, cinnamon, clove, 
 allspice, ginger ; these whole herbs, sage, savory, thyme, 
 parsley, sweet-marjoram, summer savory, tarragon ; these 
 ground herbs, sage, summer savory, thyme, parsley, 
 sweet-marjoram. 
 
 Third Shelf. These canned vegetables, button 
 onions, cauliflower, peas, string beans, shelled beans, 
 
AN IDEAL KITCHEN. 23 
 
 mixed vegetables, tomatoes, and corn ; also, canned 
 eepes, mushrooms, truffles, salmon, lobster, shrimp, 
 chicken and tongue, and dessert biscuit, prunes, twine, 
 chamois skin, whiting, household ammonia, clothes-pins. 
 Floor. Molasses, cider, vinegar, granulated sugar, 
 wine, coarse salt for freezing, washing-soda for the 
 plumbing. 
 
 THE COLD STOREROOM. 
 
 This room should be on the north side of the house, 
 and should have two small windows, on two sides of the 
 room, if possible. A broad beam should extend across 
 one end of the room, at least one foot from the wall. 
 Strong meat-hooks should be fastened in this beam, on 
 which to hang harn, bacon, smoked tongue, smoked sal- 
 mon, and fresh meat or poultry that is to be kept a day 
 or more. At the other end of the room there should be 
 broad, strong shelves on which to put the tubs or jars in 
 which pork, lard, pickles, etc., are kept. All the things 
 which should be kept very cold, such as fruits, vegeta- 
 bles, preserves, etc., may be stored in this room. 
 
 If one hav a good light cellar, the cold storeroom 
 may be arranged there. The entrance should be near 
 the kitchen stairs. In most modern cellars the furnace 
 gives so much heat that a separate place is required for 
 storage purposes. If one be about to build a house, it 
 will be well to take this matter under consideration. 
 Have a separate cellar under the kitchen, and keep it 
 for vegetables and a storeroom. In the larger cellar 
 have the furnace, fuel-bins, and a workshop, if one be 
 needed. If the cellar extend the entire length of the 
 house, a cold room may be made by building a brick 
 partition at the end of the cellar farthest from the 
 furnace. The room, whether on the ground floor or 
 downstairs, should be so arranged that it can be made 
 light when necessary. The windows should have inside 
 blinds. 
 
24 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 In most households the cellar will be found to be the 
 most desirable place for a cold room, because the temper- 
 ature will be more even than in a place above ground. 
 Dry atmosphere, light, and ventilation are the special 
 points to keep in mind. Even in an old house, where 
 the light is insufficient, large windows may be put in, 
 and the trouble thus easily remedied. Perfect cleanli- 
 ness and frequent airing are necessary for the preserva- 
 tion of food in this room. 
 
 Of course, it is desirable to have the room divided into 
 two parts, a thin partition will suffice, that the milk 
 and butter in one compartment shall not absorb the 
 flavor of meats, fish, fruits, or vegetables kept in the 
 other. If there be no refrigerator in the pantry, have 
 one in this room. Ice will not melt so quickly here as 
 in other parts of the house. 
 
 A writer who has given considerable thought to the 
 subject of ventilation says that " a great mistake is some- 
 times made in ventilating cellars and milk-houses. The 
 object of ventilation is to keep the cellars cool and dry, 
 but this object often fails of being accomplished by a 
 common mistake, and instead the cellar 'is made both 
 warm and damp. A cool place should never be venti- 
 lated unless the air admitted is cooler than the air 
 within, or is at least as cool as that, or only a very little 
 warmer. The warmer the air the more moisture it holds 
 in suspension. Necessarily, the cooler the air the more 
 this moisture is condensed and precipitated. When a 
 cool cellar is aired on a warm day, the entering air being 
 in motion appears cool ; but as it fills the cellar the cooler 
 air with which it becomes mixed chills it, the moisture 
 is condensed, and dew is deposited on the cold walls, and 
 may often be seen running down them in streams. Then 
 the cellar is damp, and soon becomes mouldy. To avoid 
 this, the windows should only be opened at night, and 
 late, the last thing before retiring. There is no need 
 to fear that the night air is unhealthful ; it is as pure 
 
AN IDEAL KITCHEN. 25 
 
 as the air of midday, and is really drier. The cool air 
 enters the apartment during the night and circulates 
 through it. The windows should be closed before sun- 
 rise in the morning, and kept closed and shaded through 
 the day. If the air of the cellar be damp, it may be thor- 
 oughly dried by placing in it a peck of fresh lime in an 
 open box. A peck of lime will absorb about seven 
 pounds, or more than three quarts, of water ; and in this 
 way a cellar or milkroom may soon be dried, even in the 
 hottest weather." 
 
 THE CHINA CLOSET. 
 
 Between the kitchen and dining-room there should 
 be a closet where the dining-room dishes (except rare 
 glass and china) can be kept, and where the glassware, 
 silver, and delicate china if not all the china can be 
 washed. A window is needed in this room. Have the 
 floor made of hard wood, unless it is to be covered. If 
 covered, use lignum. A woollen carpet never should be 
 laid in a china closet. The walls may be sheathed, or 
 plastered and painted. Everything considered, sheathing 
 with well-finished hard wood is the best plan. 
 
 On one side of the room have closets about three feet 
 high, beginning at the floor. Above the closets have 
 broad shelves. These should have deep grooves, so that 
 meat dishes may be placed on edge and inclined against 
 the wall. On the opposite side of the room have a sim- 
 ilar tier of shelves, with drawers, instead of closets, 
 under the lowest. If the room be planned like that in 
 the design given, there will be space between the two 
 tiers of shelves already mentioned for still another tier, 
 although it will be better to save this space for the steps 
 needed for reaching the high shelves. These steps 
 should be broad, as a precaution against accidents to 
 anybody and damage to dishes. 
 
 The shelves should be made of smooth hard wood, 
 which is easily kept clean. It adds considerably to the 
 
26 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
AN IDEAL KITCHEN. 27 
 
 cost of the room, but also considerably to the conven- 
 ience, to have sliding glass doors in front of the shelves. 
 They will exclude a great deal of the dust which other- 
 wise would collect. 
 
 At one end of the room, near the window, have a s,ink 
 for washing dishes, not such a sink as that in the 
 kitchen, but a rather small basin, say of copper, about 
 eighteen inches long, twelve wide, and eight or nine 
 deep. Copper is especially recommended because it 
 wears better than zinc. A soapstone sink or a porcelain- 
 lined pan would be desirable but for the greater liability 
 of breaking dishes. It is a good idea to have a small 
 cedar tub they are made with brass hoops, and look 
 very neat for the washing of the most delicate china 
 and glassware, which is likely to get marred or broken 
 if crowded into a pan with other heavier articles. 
 
 On each side of the sink have a swinging table, on 
 which to place dishes. The tables will at times be 
 convenient when making salads and other similar 
 dishes. Above the table nearest the kitchen have a 
 slide in the wall, that dishes may be passed to and from 
 the kitchen. This small space will not admit odors or 
 the hot air as the door would if kept open. In case 
 there be two or more servants in the household, the 
 door from the closet to the kitchen need not be opened 
 at all while a meal is served, all dishes being passed 
 through the slide. 
 
 The small closets in the room are for the sugar, tea, 
 condiments, and the cake, bread, and cracker boxes. 
 There should be one small closet for the articles used 
 in cleaning the table-ware, such as soap, whiting, alco- 
 hol, ammonia, brushes, chamois skin, etc. The drawers 
 under the shelves are intended for the table linen, clean 
 dish-towels, etc. 
 
 A towel-rack that can be fastened to the window- 
 casing is a necessity. In case the walls be plastered or 
 
28 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 tiled, a broad moulding of wood should be placed just 
 above the sink. Brass hooks screwed into this moulding 
 will prove to be a great convenience. 
 
 This room is often called the butler's pantry. 
 
 
KITCHEN FURNISHING. 
 
 29 
 
 KITCHEN FURNISHING. 
 
 To a woman who is interested in cooking and in her 
 kitchen there are few places so tempting as a kitchen- 
 furnishing store. There are so many articles that are 
 of no great value in the kitchen that one must exercise 
 great care in selecting what is best adapted to her wants. 
 Closets crowded with all sorts of utensils are not a help 
 to order, neatness, and expedition in cooking ; but it is 
 essential to the highest perfection in cooking that there 
 shall be enough of the right kind of utensils. 
 
 The object of this chapter is to show what a good 
 housekeeper really needs, of what material the uten- 
 sils should be made, and some of the numerous inven- 
 tions which, if not absolutely needful, are at least very 
 desirable in a modern kitchen. 
 
 Here is a list of articles with which every housekeeper 
 should be supplied : 
 
 Apple-corer. 
 
 Baking-pans, four, of tin, and 
 
 shallow. 
 Baking-pans of Russian iron, two 
 
 sizes. 
 Bean -pot. 
 Biscuit-cutter. 
 
 Blacking-brash, for polishing stove. 
 Block, or thick board, on which to 
 
 break bones, open lobsters, etc. 
 Boards, two, on which to cut bread 
 
 and cold meat. 
 Boning-knife. 
 Bowls, four, yellow earthenware, 
 
 holding from six quarts down. 
 Bowls, four, white, and smooth- 
 bottomed, holding one quart 
 
 each. 
 
 Boxes, of tin or wood, for rice, 
 
 tapioca, crackers, barley, soda, 
 
 cream-of-tartar, etc. 
 Braising-pan, say of granite -ware, 
 
 round and deep, with cover. 
 Bread-pans, two, holding six and 
 
 eight quarts respectively. 
 Brown-bread pans, two. 
 Buckets or tin boxes for sugar, 
 
 graham, Indian, and rye meal. 
 Butcher's knife. 
 Cake-box. 
 
 Case knives and forks, two each. 
 Chocolate-pot. 
 Chopping knife and tray. 
 Coffee-biggin. 
 Coffee-pot. 
 Colander. 
 
30 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Covers for flour-barrels. 
 
 Cups, six, holding half a pint each. 
 
 Dipper with long handle. 
 
 Dish-cloth, of wire. 
 
 Dish -pan. 
 
 Double-boiler, hoi ding three quarts. 
 
 Double-broilers, three, one each 
 for toast, fish, and meat. 
 
 Dredgers, one each for flour, pow- 
 dered sugar, salt, and pepper, 
 the last two to be small. 
 
 Dust pan and brush. 
 
 Egg-beater, Dover. 
 
 Fish-kettle. 
 
 Flour-sieve. 
 
 Fork, large. 
 
 French cook's knife. 
 
 Frying-basket. 
 
 Frying - kettle, Scotch, No. 4 
 (which is deep). 
 
 Frying-pans, French, polished, 
 Nos. 3 and 6. 
 
 Grater, large. 
 
 Gravy-strainer. 
 
 Griddle. 
 
 Hand- basin. 
 
 Jagging-iron. 
 
 Larding-needle. 
 
 Lemon-squeezer. 
 
 Meat-rack. 
 
 Melon-mould. 
 
 Milk -pans, two. 
 
 Moulding-board, of hard wood. 
 
 Muffin-pans, two, of stamped iron. 
 
 Pail, for cleaning purposes. 
 
 Pans, four, deep, for loaves of 
 bread or cake. 
 
 Pots, two, of cast-iron (they come 
 with the stove). 
 
 Preserving-kettle, porcelain-lined. 
 
 Pudding-dish, of earthenware. 
 
 Pudding-mould, round. 
 
 Quart measures, two. 
 
 Rolling-pin. 
 
 Roll-pan, French, of Russian iron, 
 and deep. 
 
 Scoops, one each for flour and 
 sugar. 
 
 Scrubbing-brush. 
 
 Skewers, of steel, one set. 
 
 Spice-box. 
 
 Spoons, four, large, for mixing 
 purposes. 
 
 Squash-strainer. 
 
 Steamer that will fit on to one of 
 the cast-iron pots. 
 
 Stew-pans, four, of stamped tin or 
 granite-ware, holding from one 
 pint to four quarts. 
 
 Stew-pans, three, porcelain-lined, 
 holding from one to six quarts. 
 
 Stone pots, one holding ten 
 quarts, for bread ; one holding 
 six quarts, for butter ; and one 
 holding three quarts, for pork. 
 
 Table-spoons, two. 
 
 Tea-canister. 
 
 Teapot. 
 
 Teaspoons, six. 
 
 Trussing-needle. 
 
 Vegetable-cutters, two. 
 
 Vegetable-knives, two. 
 
 Vegetable-masher. 
 
 Waffle-iron. 
 
 Whip-churn. 
 
 Wire beater or whisk. 
 
 Wooden bowl, for chopping pur- 
 poses. 
 
 Utensils made of iron increase in value with use, as 
 the surface becomes smooth. In buying them, be care- 
 ful to see that they are of the best quality and are well 
 finished. There are few things that come into the 
 kitchen which will cause more annoyance than iron uten- 
 sils of poor quality. Before being used they should be 
 
KITCHEN FURNISHING. 31 
 
 washed and be wiped perfectly dry. Then the inside 
 should be rubbed over with some kind of fat or oil that 
 is perfectly free of salt. Let the utensils stand for 
 several hours before washing again. Now put them on 
 the fire where they will be heated gradually, and then 
 wash them with soap and water, rinse thoroughly in hot 
 water, and wipe perfectly dry. They should be rubbed 
 hard with a dry towel. This will make the surface 
 smooth. If this work be done carefully, and the iron 
 be good and the utensil well made, there will be no 
 further trouble. 
 
 Iron utensils that are wiped with a wet cloth and then 
 put on the stove to dry are liable to have a rough surface 
 and to rust. 
 
 Among the iron goods used in the kitchen are frying- 
 pans, waffle-irons, roll-pans, griddles for batter cakes, 
 large iron pots, etc. Sometimes some of these things 
 are so highly polished that they only require to be washed 
 in soap and water and then rubbed dry. This is the 
 case with what are called French fry-pans, English 
 hammered pans, and steel-finished griddles. A good 
 deal of the heavy iron-ware, like stew-pans, soup-kettles, 
 fish-kettles, etc., comes with either porcelain or tin 
 lining, in which case washing in soap and water is all 
 that is required. For long, slow cooking these porcelain- 
 lined or tin-lined stew-pans are quite desirable, as the 
 article cooking can be kept at a more even temperature 
 than in the tin or granite-ware stew-pan. Iron conies 
 next to copper in retaining heat, yet is far below copper 
 in this respect. But there are two objections to the use 
 of many copper utensils, their weight, and the danger 
 of poisoning. Pains must be taken to care properly 
 for such as are used. In large establishments where the 
 special duty of one or more persons is to take charge of 
 the stew-pans and other utensils, there is no reason why 
 copper may not be used, provided the articles are in- 
 spected frequently. In private families where only a 
 
32 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 few servants are employed, the cook does not have the 
 time to keep copper utensils in proper condition. 
 
 For all cooking where the process is not long and slow, 
 nothing can be cleaner, lighter, or more easily kept in 
 good condition than granite-ware. Its enamel, like that 
 of porcelain-lined ware, will crack and chip off with 
 rough treatment ; but if it has proper care it will be found 
 most serviceable. 
 
 When buying this ware examine it carefully ; and if 
 it does not seem firm in every part or if it has a flaw in 
 the enamel, do not take it. If the utensil can be bent 
 in any way, the enamel will crack and chip off, making 
 the dish worthless. This is the reason why the spoons 
 of this ware are not a success. Some persons still are 
 prejudiced against this ware. The constant use of it 
 for eight years has proved it perfectly reliable and the 
 most satisfactory of all materials for kitchen utensils, 
 its lightness and cleanliness especially commending it. 
 
 A large proportion of utensils are made of tin. One 
 should be careful in the purchase of tin articles to get 
 the best. So much cheap metal is sold for a song that 
 dealers do not find a ready sale for the best quality, and 
 therefore even first-class houses do not keep it made up. 
 Articles made of good block-tin will outwear half a 
 dozen sets of the cheap, light tin that is used so freely. 
 The best tin has a smooth and rather dull-looking sur- 
 face, and is so strong and firm that it will keep its shape 
 until worn out. It will stand great heat without the 
 surface becoming rough. The poorer quality of tin has 
 a more brilliant surface, which will be found upon ex- 
 amination to be a little rough. When exposed to great 
 heat the tin coating melts, giving a rough, uneven sur- 
 face which it is difficult to clean and to which a cook- 
 ing substance clings, thus getting burned. Most utensils 
 should be made of XX tin; at least XXX tin, if not 
 XXXX, should be used for bread and cake pans when 
 they are not made of sheet-iron. Tin boxes in which 
 
KITCHEN FURNISHING. 33 
 
 groceries are kept need not be of this quality of tin. 
 Such boxes as are made for cracker-manufacturers would 
 cost no more than the wooden buckets. One can nearly 
 always get them through one's grocer. It is a simple 
 matter to paint the labels on them. - These can be used 
 in the storeroom for the articles enumerated in the list 
 on page 22. There should be kept in the pantry two 
 tin boxes for bread, fresh and stale ; two for sugar, 
 powdered and granulated; and one for each kind of 
 meal. 
 
 For the daily or weekly supplies for the pantry there 
 is nothing better than glass preserving- jars. In these can 
 be kept rice, beans, split peas, tapioca, sago, barley, ver- 
 micelli, roasted coffee, etc. A glance at the row of jars, 
 and one sees at once the article required, a great sav- 
 
 Soup-digester. Ham -boiler. 
 
 ing of time and thought. Then, too, the housekeeper 
 can ascertain each morning, without opening the jars, 
 which need replenishing. This plan of keeping groceries 
 in sight is of the greatest advantage. 
 
 A soup-digester, which is used in making soup, is not 
 a necessity, but is of great value in the kitchen. If 
 not made so tight that all the steam is kept in, one 
 might as well use an ordinary kettle. There is a little 
 opening in the cover, which lets the steam escape in case 
 there should be hard boiling. Soup-digesters are made 
 in this country, and cost about one-third less than the 
 English ; but so far they have not been made steam-tight, 
 
 3 
 
34 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 and are of no greater value than an ordinary kettle with 
 a good cover. Those imported from England are well 
 made. 
 
 A fish-kettle is almost a necessity, and is not very ex- 
 pensive. It is long, -but light, and has a perforated tray 
 with handles, which fits loosely into the kettle. The fish 
 rests on this tray while cooking, and when done is lifted 
 
 from the water and drained on 
 the tray. An oval sheet-iron 
 ham-boiler is cheap and light, 
 and can be used for boiling a 
 ham, turkey, a small fish, or a 
 cut of a large fish, like halibut 
 or salmon. It has a perforated 
 tray, like the fish-boiler. 
 
 The waffle-iron is one of the 
 things that should be of the 
 best quality, as the work of 
 cooking waffles is hot and hard 
 at any time ; and when 
 the iron is 
 too shallow, 
 or is in a 
 frame that 
 lifts it too 
 high from 
 Waffle-iron. the fire, or 
 
 when it does 
 
 not fit perfectly over the opening in the stove, it causes 
 a great deal of annoyance. Griswold's American waffle- 
 irons are the most satisfactory. They are comparatively 
 new. 
 
 Nearly every family has griddle-cakes at least one or 
 two mornings in the week in cold weather, and the 
 question of what kind of griddle to use is often de- 
 bated. One made of soapstone, when properly handled, 
 is to most people very satisfactory. The advantage is, 
 
KITCHEN FURNISHING. 35 
 
 that it does not require greasing, and therefore there is 
 no smoke nor odor from the cooking of the cakes, a 
 great consideration when the dining-room is located where 
 the odors and smoke from the kitchen are likely to reach 
 it. One objection to the soapstone griddle is that the 
 cakes and muffins baked on it are not quite so tender as 
 those baked on the iron griddle. Of iron griddles there 
 are two kinds. First, there is the common one made of 
 cast-iron, with very little polish. A good-sized griddle 
 of this class can be bought for less than a dollar. Then 
 there is a thick, highly polished kind, the surface looking 
 like steel, which will cost three or four times as much. 
 If one can afford it, it will pay to buy the better griddle. 
 It is so thick and smooth that the heat is more uniform 
 than on the thinner and cheaper iron. 
 
 Cast-iron roll and gem pans are very heavy, and it 
 takes some use to get them smooth; but they can be 
 heated thoroughly before a mixture is put into them, 
 which at times is a great consideration, and no diffi- 
 culty arises when a thin mixture is used. The Kussian- 
 iron pans are not made tight, and cannot be used when 
 the mixture is thin enough to run freely ; therefore, if 
 a housekeeper can have but one kind of pan, it will be 
 wise to have the cast-iron kind. 
 
 A common short-handled cast-iron 
 frying-pan' that can be put in the 
 oven, is a necessity. After a little Frying-pan, 
 
 service it becomes smooth, and is 
 useful for hash, spider corn-cake, baked omelets, etc. 
 
 There are three other varieties of frying-pans, which 
 come in sets, and a housekeeper should have some of 
 the pans in at least two sets. The most common is 
 that called the French polished fry-pan, though it really 
 is not a French pan. It is smooth, light, well made, 
 and cheap. These pans may be used for various pur- 
 poses. They are so smooth that the materials do not 
 stick to them, and therefore there is little danger of 
 
36 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 burning. They are convenient to make sauces in, or 
 for use in frying vegetables for soups or garnishes, or, 
 indeed, for any kind of frying when the articles are 
 not to be immersed in fat. They answer also for omelet- 
 pans. In brief, these pans are the most useful of all 
 utensils. They are made in many sizes. The prices 
 range from twenty cents upward. It will be found a 
 good investment to get a set of these pans, beginning at 
 zero, and going as high as No. 4 or 5. The regular 
 French pans have much deeper sides, and are of finer 
 finish. The objection to them is that the handles are 
 rather short, which is especially inconvenient in making 
 omelets. 
 
 For an omelet-pan there is nothing in the market that 
 compares with the pans of English hammered ware. 
 They are very similar in shape to the French polished 
 pans, but are much heavier, and the handles are longer. 
 The marks of the hammer give the pans a rather rough 
 appearance, but this roughness is not the slightest obsta- 
 cle to perfect work. The only objection to the pans is 
 the unfinished edges, which are sharp, and sometimes 
 cut one's hands when washing them. The sizes and 
 prices are about the same as those of the French pol- 
 ished pans. 
 
 Frying-pans that can be used for all purposes come in 
 granite-ware ; but as they are not so durable, and the heat 
 is not so even as with iron, they are not desirable. They 
 cost about the same as iron. 
 
 A good substitute for wooden pails is what is called 
 wood-pulp ware. Pails, dish-pans, wash-bowls, etc., are 
 made from this substance. They are light ; there are no 
 hoops to rust or loosen, and the pails or pans can be 
 kept clean and dry without danger of damage. 
 
 There should be at least two chopping-trays in the 
 kitchen. The long, deep tray, which is made of one 
 piece of wood, will last almost a lifetime. 
 
 The round wooden bowls, though not eo durable, are 
 
KITCHEN FURNISHING. 
 
 37 
 
 yet very useful, and there should be one, at least, in the 
 pantry. The second or third size is best in a small 
 family. 
 
 Chopping-tray. 
 
 Butter-bowls. 
 
 A chopping-knife with only one blade is much more 
 desirable than one with two. The blade should be almost 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 Scales and Weights. 
 
 straight across. When it is rounded a good deal, much 
 time and strength are wasted in chopping. 
 
 ,s nl 
 
 
 ; 
 
 '37 "fl; 
 
 -^-^^^^^_^^_^^_, 
 
 No kitchen outfit is complete without scales. Two 
 kinds come for use in the household. The old-fashioned 
 is the better, as there is nothing to get out of order. 
 
 Dial Scales. 
 
38 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 These scales are more cumbersome than the dial scales, 
 but the latter are likely to require repairing. 
 
 A lignum-vitse mortar and pestle will last for genera- 
 tions, and there should be one in every kitchen. 
 
 Mortar and Pestle. 
 
 Coffee-mill. 
 
 A French coffee-mill, which is simple and durable, is 
 a necessity where filtered coffee is made. This will 
 grind coarse or exceedingly fine, as desired. It is easily 
 adjusted, and so simple that a child can use it. 
 
 A rack to put in the dripping-pan for a piece of meat 
 to rest on when cooked in the oven is needful. 
 
 Sherwood's meat-pan grates, which 
 come in four sizes, are light, strong, 
 and easily kept clean. They cost 
 
 Meat-pan Grate. from twenty-five to forty cents. 
 
 In a large family a meat- 
 chopper is a great conven- 
 ience. These cutters come 
 in three sizes for family use. 
 
 A meat-press is not a 
 necessity, but is very use- 
 ful; the meat that is 
 pressed in it coming out 
 as a solid piece from which 
 slices of good shape may be 
 cut. These presses come 
 in several sizes. Meat-chopper. 
 
KITCHEN FURNISHING. 
 
 39 
 
 Nothing in the way of an egg-boiler has ever taken 
 the place of the old-fashioned egg-coddler, with which 
 the cooking can be done in a scientific way. Boiling 
 water is poured into the coddler, and it stands until the 
 
 Meat and Jelly Press. 
 
 Egg-coddler. 
 
 tin is thoroughly heated. The water is poured out and 
 the eggs are arranged in the coddler, which is then filled 
 with boiling water and kept in a warm place for .ten 
 minutes. At the end of that time it is sent to the table, 
 water and all. 
 
 Egg-poacher. 
 
 Silver & Co.'s (41 Broadway, New York) new egg- 
 poacher will be found of great value in the kitchen. 
 Place it in a pan of boiling water, with a teaspoonful of 
 salt to a pint of water. Let the water boil for two min- 
 utes ; then draw the pan back where the water will hardly 
 bubble, and break an egg into each ring. Let the eggs 
 stand for about three minutes and they will be done. Al- 
 ways be sure to have the poacher hot before the eggs are 
 put in ; and it must be in the water when the eggs are 
 broken into it. One can use muffin-rings and keep the 
 shape of the egg round ; but this new poacher is so 
 
40 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION 
 
 convenient that one will hardly care to do without it, 
 if poached or dropped eggs are a popular dish in the 
 family. 
 
 Egg-poacher. 
 
 A chocolate-pot with a muller that is, a sort of 
 dasher made of wood and tin, the handle of which comes 
 up through the cover of the pot 
 enables one to make a fine and 
 frothy drink. When the chocolate 
 is made it is poured into this pot, 
 and the dasher is worked rapidly up 
 and down. This makes the choco- 
 late froth and thicken. The choc- 
 olate is served in the pot, which is 
 Chocolate-pot to use ,, , , -, -, , . .-, , ., 
 
 with a Muller. usually made of block tin, though it 
 
 may be of plated ware or solid silver. 
 
 Salt, pepper, flour, and sugar dredgers are as necessary 
 
 as spoons. There are two kinds, with a great difference 
 
 Flour-dredger. Salt-box. 
 English ware. 
 
 Dredge-box. Pepper-box. 
 Japanned ware. 
 
 in price. The English dredge-boxes are made of the 
 best of tin, with concave covers, and are well finished. 
 These are the only suitable kinds for flour and salt. 
 
 The common flat dredgers, made of common tin, usually 
 are badly finished. They are more often Japanned than 
 
 
KITCHEN FUKNISH1XG. 
 
 41 
 
 left plain. Such dredgers serve very well for pepper, 
 but not for salt and flour. Always have a rather small 
 salt-dredger, and have the pepper-dredgers of the small- 
 est size in the Japanned ware. This will reduce the 
 chances of using the wrong 
 seasoning when one is work- 
 ing hastily. The distinc- 
 tion should be so great that 
 there need be no doubt 
 which dredger contains 
 flour, which salt, and which 
 pepper. If a dredger be 
 wanted for powdered su- Tapering Strainer. 
 
 gar, have it of a different size from that containing flour, 
 and do not keep it on the same shelf. 
 
 A tapering strainer presents such a large surface 
 through which material can be pressed that it saves 
 
 Grocer's Tunnel. 
 
 Tunnel. 
 
 Flour- scoop. 
 
 much time, and is therefore to be preferred to the ordi- 
 nary strainer. 
 
 ^hree tunnels are needed, a grocer's tunnel, for fill- 
 ing preserving-jars, and 
 one large and one small 
 tunnel for filling bottles, 
 jugs, arid cruets. 
 
 There should be a 
 scoop for the flour-barrel 
 and another for sugar. 
 
 Spice-boxes are made 
 in many forms. Little 
 boxes labelled with the various kinds of spice are fitted 
 
 Spice-box. 
 
42 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 into one large box. If they were well made they would 
 be very desirable, but they are so poorly made that it is 
 difficult to take the covers off or to put them on. The 
 cut given on page 41 illustrates a very simple and good 
 box with three compartments on each side ; the only 
 objection being that the spice is not protected so well 
 as in the case of the little boxes within one large box. 
 However, one does not keep much spice at a time in 
 these pantry boxes, and the saving of time and patience 
 by using this box is a consideration. 
 
 A flat-handled skim- 
 mer is one of the things 
 that should be in every 
 kitchen, and also a cake- 
 turner. 
 
 Many housekeepers 
 prefer the kind of po- 
 tato-masher shown be- 
 low to the wooden one. 
 In unskilled hands it 
 gives a lighter dish of potato than the wooden masher, 
 
 Flat-handled Skinmx 
 
 Potato-masher. 
 
 but the wooden one will be needed for many other things 
 for which the wire masher would not answer. 
 
 There are many kinds of 
 ice-picks, but for general use 
 none are better than the iron- 
 Iron-bound Ice-pick. bound one. 
 
 Skewers should always be of 
 
 steel. It is well to have two sets, a graded set for 
 meat and poultry, and a small kind for birds. 
 
KITCHEN FURNISHING. 
 
 Nothing made for opening cans is equal to sardine- 
 shears, which with care will last for a generation. 
 
 Sardine-shears. Fluted Cake-pan. 
 
 A cake baked in a fluted round pan, like that shown 
 above, is nice to put on the table whole. 
 
 Fancy Cake-pans. 
 
 A few of each of the small moulds represented above 
 give variety to a cake-basket. Plain cake baked in these 
 
44 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Border-mould. 
 
 fancy shapes is more attractive than a rich kind in one 
 large loaf. 
 
 In selecting baking-pans, get those made of XXX tin 
 or sheet-iron, with perfectly straight sides and level 
 bottoms. 
 
 A plain round or oval border- 
 mould will be very serviceable, as it 
 can be used for baking cakes for des- 
 sert, for steaming any kind of force- 
 meat which is to be served with a 
 garnish or ragout, or for shaping any 
 kind of mashed vegetable, such as 
 rice or potato, when it is to be served with a blanquette 
 or ragout. These moulds are not expensive. 
 
 There are some kinds of batters 
 that require a peculiar kind of baking 
 to make them perfect. Pop-overs 
 and various kinds of puffs must 
 always be baked in stoneware cups. 
 When cooked in these cups they 
 increase to four or five times the 
 original size. These stone cups will last twenty years 
 or more, and be perfectly sweet at the end of that time. 
 Brown or yellow earthenware, or even stone-china cups, 
 will absorb fat, and soon acquire a strong and disagree- 
 able odor and flavor ; besides, they break and crack 
 easily. Outside of New England these stone cups some- 
 times are called Boston cups, probably because they are 
 used so generally in New England, and Boston is the 
 chief place of distribution. They are imported from Eng- 
 land. With a dozen of them, and knowledge how to use 
 them, one can have muffins "as light as air" without the 
 use of a particle of baking-powder, yeast, or, indeed, any 
 of the agencies especially designed to make breads light ; 
 eggs and the air being sufficient. F. A. Walker & Co., 
 Cornhill, Boston, may be mentioned as among the dealers 
 in such cups. 
 
 English Muffin -cup. 
 
KITCHEN FURNISHING. 
 
 46 
 
 un 
 
 Dariole-moulds. 
 
 Dariole-inoulds can be used for baking cakes and corn 
 muffins, as well as for timbales and various other things. 
 There are two qualities. 
 The cheap ones cannot bear 
 a high, dry temperature, 
 such as one needs for bak- 
 ing corn cakes. Moreover, 
 they do not keep their shape ; 
 and this would be a draw- 
 back when making timbales. These moulds come in 
 several sizes, the smallest costing about $1.25 per dozen. 
 This size is quite desirable when plain "timbales are made 
 for a company dinner or luncheon, as the contents of one 
 mould are enough to serve to one person. Some of 
 these shapes are imported from France. These moulds 
 are made of the best quality of tin, and are annealed 
 while being made. They are purchased largely by pro- 
 prietors of first-class hotels and restaurants for baking 
 corn cakes. They are expensive at first, but wear so 
 well that it is real economy to buy them in preference to 
 the poor tin that loses shape and becomes rough when 
 exposed to heat and hard usage. 
 
 This cut shows the French tin, which is 
 2 x 2i inches. 
 
 Besides the tapering strainer already men- 
 tioned, there should be a strainer of this 
 shape. It should be only fine enough to 
 keep back the seeds of small fruits, and 
 should be quite concave. There should 
 be a generous number of holes. Lewis & 
 
 Conger, of 
 
 have strainers of this 
 pattern for sale. They 
 cost sixty cents, and are 
 well worth that sum. 
 
 A finer strainer that 
 can be used for liquids is necessary. These strainers 
 
 Corn-cake 
 Pan * 
 
 Strainer. 
 
 New York, 
 
 Handled Strainers. 
 
46 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 are made of such fine wire that they cannot be cleaned 
 in the ordinary way, and should be rubbed with a stiff 
 brush. 
 
 A strainer for the teapot also will be required. It 
 may be had in tin, silver- 
 plated ware, or silver. 
 
 Purees are fashionable now- 
 a-days. Even under favorable 
 conditions, considerable work 
 is required to make them ; and 
 unless there be proper uten- 
 sils for doing the work, much 
 time will be lost and there 
 will be a great waste of materials. A coarse and a fine 
 sieve are needed where the best modern cooking is to be 
 
 Teapot Strainer. 
 
 Coarse Puree Sieve. 
 
 done. The coarse sieve is used not only for purees, but 
 for force-meats. The frame may be made of wood or 
 strong tin; the strainer, of strong wires woven into a 
 coarse netting ; this netting being strengthened by two 
 cross-pieces of coarse wire. The substance to be strained 
 
KITCHEN FURNISHING. 47 
 
 is placed in the sieve and rubbed through with a wooden 
 vegetable-masher. Properly used, this sieve will last a 
 long time. Fine French sieves, for use in straining semi- 
 liquid purees, are made of the finest woven wire. They 
 are used only for fine cooking, and therefore should last a 
 great many years. 
 
 The shapes in which pudding jellies, creams, etc., are 
 cooked or chilled, may make much difference in the at 
 tractiveness of the dish. A few well-chosen forms are 
 more to be desired than many that are neither handsome 
 nor clearly defined. Moulds that have the designs 
 stamped on them are comparatively cheap. American 
 moulds of this class usually have^ the design at the top 
 deep and clear ; but the impression in the sides is so 
 slight that the cream or jelly, when turned out, is 
 found to have perfectly smooth sides. 
 
 The English makers stamp the sides deep, and the 
 mould of jelly presents a beautiful appearance when on 
 a dish. The cost of the English goods is from one-third 
 to one-half more than those of American make. All 
 the handsome forms are imported. They are made of 
 many pieces soldered together, and consequently are 
 very expensive, costing five and six times as much as 
 
 
 Jelly-moulds. 
 
 a mould of the same size on which the design is 
 stamped. But these expensive forms are made of the 
 best tin, and will last a great many years. Some of 
 the finest shapes come in copper ; but this is a metal 
 in which a combination of milk and eggs, or an acid, 
 
48 
 
 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 cannot be kept with safety for many hours. The safest 
 and sweetest ware is earthen or china, but the finest 
 shapes do not corne in these materials. Besides, it takes 
 much longer to cool a jelly or cream in such moulds than 
 in tin. 
 
 The two moulds on page 47 are very desirable, as they 
 can be used for rice, vegetables, creams, or jellies. The 
 fluted mould is quite cheap. The cross-fluted is made 
 of more pieces and is more expensive. It is, however, 
 one of the prettiest moulds made. 
 
 Here are simple and hand- 
 some moulds for jelly, Bavarian 
 cream, or. any kind of dessert 
 that is served with whipped 
 cream. It is particularly nice 
 Jelly-mould, for imperial pudding. There Jelly-mould. 
 
 are several sizes. A two-quart 
 mould costs $1.75. 
 
 This mould is made of so many 
 pieces as to be costly. Beautiful 
 effects can be produced with it ; 
 for example, a jelly, cream, or 
 blanc-mange of three colors could 
 be arranged in it. 
 
 Below and on page 49 are some 
 handsome shapes in individual 
 moulds. They are simple and 
 cheap; good to have in a small 
 family, or to use when sending delicacies to the sick. 
 
 Jelly-mould. 
 
 Individual Jelly-moulds. 
 
KITCHEN FURNISHING. 
 
 49 
 
 Individual Jelly-moulds. 
 
 Ice-cream moulds come in many pretty shapes. Do 
 not choose elaborate styles for this purpose. Only pro- 
 fessionals can pack such 
 moulds properly. 
 
 Charlotte-russe P,u;. 
 
 Pudding-mould. 
 
 Charlotte-russe moulds are needed in the modern 
 kitchen. They come in all sizes from half a pint up- 
 ward. Those of oblong shape, with slanting sides, are 
 
 Vegetable-cutters. 
 
 the best. One rarely wants a mould of a greater size than 
 two quarts. The quart mould, or even a smaller size, is 
 the most useful. 
 
50 
 
 MISS PABLO A'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 A fluted pudding-mould costs but little more than a 
 plain one, yet the appearance of the pudding cooked in 
 the former is twice as attractive. 
 A set of vegetable-cutters will add much to the beauty 
 of many a dish. It should be 
 made of the best tin. Boxes of 
 graded cutters may be had. They 
 are very useful in stamping out 
 vegetables, force-meat, and jellies 
 for decorative purposes, and also 
 are valuable for coring apples and 
 other fruit, stoning olives, etc. 
 
 Fluted cutters for patties can 
 be bought in sets of two or in 
 nests. Oblong fluted cutters for 
 large vol-au-vents can be found at 
 the best kitchen-furnishing stores. 
 Besides these fancy cutters there should be a plain, 
 round biscuit-cutter, two and one-half inches in diameter, 
 
 Box of Cutters or Carers. 
 
 Cutters. 
 
 Biscuit-cutter. Doughnut-cutter. 
 
 These answer for 
 
 and another, four inches in diameter, 
 biscuit, patties, and ginger-snaps. 
 
 Where doughnuts are made, a double 
 cutter will be found very convenient. 
 Where one is fond of cone-shaped cro- 
 quettes, such a mould as this will be 
 needed. 
 
 There should be a cutlet-mould in every 
 kitchen. The cost is only twenty-five 
 cents. 
 
 Swedish timbale-irons are made plain 
 and fluted. The plain kind is the better ; the other 
 holds too much fat. 
 
 Croquette-mould. 
 
KITCHEN FURNISHING. 
 
 51 
 
 Cutlet-mould. 
 
 Timbale-mould. 
 
 A salamander is a round, flat piece of iron attached 
 to a long iron handle. When one desires to brown 
 
 Salamander. 
 
 without putting it 
 made red-hot and 
 
 into the oven, 
 held over the 
 
 an article quickly 
 the salamander is 
 dish. 
 
 Genuine gratin dishes are rather deep platters, made of 
 copper, with the inside silver-plated. They come in many 
 sizes, and are used for cooking all kinds of fish, meat, and 
 vegetables that are browned in the oven and served in 
 the dish in which they were cooked. They are imported 
 by Lewis & Conger, New York. Silver baking-dishes are 
 
 Silver Baking-dish. 
 
 used when the article to be cooked should be cooked in 
 a deep dish. These baking-dishes are, however, more 
 appropriate for hot puddings and souffles. The baking 
 is done in a porcelain-lined dish that fits into a silver 
 frame. Beautiful fluted pudding-dishes, with a baking- 
 dish inside, come in English china. They are, however, 
 suitable only for puddings and souffles, whereas the silver 
 
52 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 dish may be used for escaloped fish, meats, or vegetables, 
 as well as for desserts. 
 
 Silver Baking-dish. 
 
 A palette-knife, which costs fifty or sixty cents, should 
 be included in the kitchen supplies. It is used to scrape 
 mixing-bowls free of dough or batter of any kind. 
 
 Palette-knife. 
 
 Two useful articles in a kitchen are a meat saw and 
 cleaver. 
 
 Cleaver. Braising-pan. 
 
 A deep, round granite- ware dish, similar to that in the 
 cut, when covered closely with a tin cover free of solder, 
 answers all purposes for braising. 
 
 The Dean lemon-squeezer works easily, is strong and 
 very clean. It is a wise plan to buy one or two extra 
 tumblers. 
 
KITCHEN FURNISHING. 
 
 Whisk. 
 
 Lemon-squeezer. 
 
 Spoons made of hard maple are light and quite strong. 
 They come in all sizes. Some have slits cut in them, 
 which make the spoon particularly useful for beating 
 cake and frosting. 
 
 A wire whisk is neces- 
 sary for beating whites of 
 eggs and jellies, and mak- 
 ing snow-pudding, etc. The 
 American whisk is light, and has a wooden handle. 
 It is not durable. The French whisk is heavy, the han- 
 dle being made of wire, and wears well. 
 
 Graded measuring-cups are of great value. They are 
 made of tin. One cup is divided into four parts, so that 
 fourths, halves, and three-quarters can be measured ac- 
 curately. The other cup is divided into 
 thirds. There are several patterns of these 
 cups. Get those which are gauged by the 
 old-fashioned beer-measure. 
 
 A pair of creased wooden hands, for 
 making butter balls, should be included in 
 the outfit of the kitchen. With a little 
 practice, butter may be shaped in many 
 pretty forms, so that the dish will look 
 very nice on the table. Be particular to 
 select hands with fine grooves, as they give 
 
 J * 
 
 much better results than those with coarse 
 
 grooves. 
 
 Creased Hum Is 
 
 for Shaping 
 
 Butt. -r. 
 
 * 
 
54 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Mixing-bowls come in deep yellow and light buff 
 earthenware ; also in white stone-china. The deep yel- 
 low ware is made of a rather soft material and breaks 
 easily ; and although this ware is much cheaper than the 
 lighter yellow, one hardly practises economy in buying 
 it. The white stone-china is the most expensive of the 
 three, but it wears so well that it pays to buy it in pref- 
 erence to any other kind. 
 
 Chafing-dish. 
 
 Although a chafing-dish is not a necessary utensil, it 
 insures perfection in serving many little dishes, like 
 venison steaks, oysters in many forms, Welsh rarebits, 
 etc., and is desirable on that account. These dishes 
 come in the best quality of tin and in plated ware. The 
 first cut gives the best-shaped dish. This may be used 
 for many things which must be served very hot. The 
 
 Chafing-dish. 
 
 Wire Dish-covers. 
 
 Meat-safe. 
 
 -vick of the lamp should be kept rather low, so that the 
 heat shall not be intense. The dish shown in the second 
 cut is cheaper, yet quite good. 
 
 Wire dish-covers are serviceable when food is put away 
 on plates. 
 
KITCHEN FURNISHING. 55 
 
 In some parts of the South where there are no cellars, 
 and at the North where food is kept in an open cellar or 
 in a cold room, a meat-safe is needed. The circulation 
 of air is perfect, and the contents are protected from 
 mice and cats. These safes usually are supplied with 
 locks and keys. 
 
 Upright cake-boxes, with shelves, 
 are the only kind that can be used 
 with satisfaction. They are pretty 
 expensive, however, costing from 
 $2.25 to $3.75. 
 
 When preparing soups and jel- 
 lies, there will be required, be- 
 sides the tin and wire strainers, 
 two other kinds, one made of 
 flannel, and the other a coarse 
 sort of napkin. The flannel Cake-box, 
 
 strainer, which should be in the 
 
 form of a bag of triangular shape, should be made of a 
 square of rather coarse white flannel, and have four 
 pieces of strong tape sewed on at the opening, so that the 
 bag may be hung from a frame or two chairs. Napkins 
 costing about $1.50 per dozen are about right for use in 
 straining soups and jellies. Buy at least half a dozen 
 at a time. Have them washed twice, with a hard rub- 
 bing, to get out all the dressing. It is a good plan to 
 use the napkins in some way before the second wash- 
 ing, so much that a thorough rubbing will be necessary. 
 Liquids will not pass through while the dressing remains 
 in the fabric. 
 
 When a filter will not work well, water may be strained 
 through a flannel bag as it comes from the faucet. Have 
 three or four small square bags made of coarse white 
 flannel for this purpose. Cotton and wool may be used 
 instead of all-wool cloth. Make a rather broad hem at 
 the top, through which put a strong tape about half a 
 yard long. This bag can be put on the faucet and fas- 
 
56 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 tened firmly with the tape. One will not like to drink 
 unfiltered or unstrained water after seeing one of these 
 bags which has been used for a day. 
 
 Besides the cooking utensils, many other articles are 
 needed for furnishing a kitchen properly. There should 
 be a strong coal-hod, but be careful that it is light and 
 not too large. Many persons are considerably injured 
 by lifting heavy hods. Then a poker is wanted, one 
 with a long flat end that will cut through the coal when it 
 is used. It should have a riveted iron handle; wooden 
 handles soon become loosened. 
 
 Sink-rack. 
 
 Sink -shovel. 
 
 A wooden sink-rack, on which to place the dish-pan, is 
 a desirable article. Sink-cleaners strips of rubber 
 fastened into frames are so useful that one would not 
 like to do without them after a trial ; and a sink-shovel 
 also is a convenient thing to have. 
 
 A knife-board, which will 
 hold Bath brick and cloths, 
 and can be hung up, is so 
 cheap that every housekeeper 
 should have one. 
 
 Have a towel-rack fastened 
 near the range. It will be 
 especially convenient on rainy 
 days when the dish-towels 
 cannot be dried in the open 
 air. 
 
 A wire rack should be fas- 
 tened over the sink in which 
 to keep the various brushes 
 Kitchen Knife-boards. which are used to keep strain- 
 
KITCHEN FURNISHING. 
 
 57 
 
 ers, pure'e sieves, tables, etc., clean. As nothing cleans 
 wood-work and tiles more thoroughly than a sponge, a 
 large coarse sponge also should 
 be kept in this rack. 
 
 Towel-rack. 
 
 Wire Rack. 
 
 A German heath sink-brush is clean and strong, be- 
 sides being inexpensive. One should always be kept 
 near the sink. 
 
 Have a good clock in the kitchen, even if something 
 else must be sacrificed for it. Many folk think that any 
 kind of a timepiece will do, and others have none at all. 
 Cooking cannot be done properly without a good clock 
 as an aid. 
 
 A soap-shaker is a convenient and economical utensil 
 to have in both the kitchen and china-closet. All the 
 
 
 Soap-shaker. 
 
 X . . 
 
 small pieces of soap can be saved and used in this 
 shaker, and there is no danger of soap sticking to the 
 dishes, as it does sometimes when a large piece of soap 
 is put into the pan with the table-ware or cooking- 
 utensils. 
 
 Ash and garbage barrels should be made 
 of galvanized iron. The coal-sifter should 
 fit over the ash-barrel, which, of course, is 
 to be kept where it is most convenient for 
 emptying. The garbage-barrel should not 
 be so large that it cannot be handled 
 easily. Ash-barrel. 
 
58 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 CARE OF UTENSILS AND KITCHEN 
 FURNITURE. 
 
 MUCH of the flavor, delicacy, and wholesomeness of 
 food depends upon the proper care of the utensils 
 used. Besides, utensils which are properly cared for 
 will last much longer than those which are not. 
 
 Sand is used in many kitchens for scouring tins, 
 tables, and floors. It is good for unpainted tables and 
 floors, provided it be carefully washed off, but it never 
 should touch tin or granite ware. Every kind of utensil 
 tin, iron, wood, etc. should be. washed and wiped 
 as carefully as the dining-room china. Many house- 
 keepers do not provide proper towels for the kitchen. 
 They think of the utensils as coarse things, and provide 
 only coarse, hard crash for towels, with which dishes 
 cannot be wiped smooth and dry. Every kitchen should 
 be provided generously with three kinds of towels, some 
 of soft crash, for the hands, which can be made to go 
 over a roller, or have tapes at the ends that they may 
 be hung on hooks; a dozen, also of soft crash, made 
 about a yard long, for the dishes, from plates and bowls 
 to saucepans and iron pots ; and half a dozen of coarser 
 texture, yet not hard and unyielding, for use about the 
 range when lifting hot utensils. The towels mentioned 
 last should be about four feet long. Unbleached cotton 
 and linen are good and cheap material of which to make 
 them. 
 
 Housekeepers may think that it is a piece of extrava- 
 gance to buy these large towels for lifting utensils, but 
 they are really as necessary as the dish-towels. The 
 small padded holders that many people use are both 
 
CARE OF UTENSILS AND FURNITURE. 59 
 
 inconvenient and unclean, because they are not washed 
 as soon as soiled, as in the case of the stove-towel. 
 These towels are made long so that they can be used 
 in putting large pans into the oven and taking them out 
 of it. 
 
 Having enough towels, and a plentiful supply of soap 
 and hot water, there is no reason why dishes should not 
 be sweet and clean. Be as generous with soap as you 
 are with towels. Greasy dishes cannot be washed with- 
 out it. 
 
 Every dish must be scraped free of particles of food. 
 As soon as you are through with a bowl or pan, fill it 
 with water, that the substance prepared in it shall not 
 harden on the surface and make your work ten times as 
 difficult and long as it should be. 
 
 When ready to wash the dishes, half fill the dish-pan 
 with water as hot as you can bear your hand in. Have 
 a second pan half filled with water that is even hotter. 
 Shake soap in the first pan until strong suds are formed ; 
 then begin washing the dishes, rubbing well with the 
 dish-cloth every part, inside and out. When about 
 eight or ten dishes have been washed, rinse them in the 
 pan of clean hot water and drain them on the inclined 
 grooved board beside the sink ; or if you have not that, 
 an old tray will do. Wipe them dry with a clean soft 
 towel ; and if the utensils be tin, granite-ware, or iron, 
 place them near the fire but not in a very hot place 
 for a few minutes, to insure their being perfectly free of 
 moisture before they are put away. If all the utensils 
 be treated in this manner, even the iron pots would not 
 soil a cambric handkerchief. 
 
 The tinware, granite-ware, and frying-pans will need 
 scouring frequently. This should be done whenever a 
 dish looks rough or dull, or when soap and water will 
 not remove all traces of the food prepared in the dish. 
 For this purpose there is nothing better than Sapolio, 
 which cleans without scratching. Many housekeepers 
 
60 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 complain of the expense of this article ; but if it be 
 bought by the box it will be found comparatively cheap. 
 Where the cost of Sapolio is an objection, soap and pow- 
 dered Bristol brick may be used. This is not so con- 
 venient, and therefore the dish will not get cleaned so 
 often as it would if it were only a matter of rubbing a 
 cake of Sapolio on a dish-cloth and then on the article 
 to be cleaned. 
 
 When washing wooden-ware, like chopping-bowls, 
 moulding-boards, etc., never dry them by the fire. They 
 warp and crack when exposed to dry heat while they are 
 wet. 
 
 Sometimes the most careful washing will not wholly 
 remove the flavor or odor of food from the utensil in 
 which it was cooked. This is frequently the case with 
 fish, onions, cabbage, etc. After any of these articles 
 have been cooked, wash the utensil carefully with soap 
 and water. Now nearly fill it with cold water, and for 
 each quart of water add about a table-spoonful of dis- 
 solved washing-soda. Place on the fire, and let the water 
 get boiling hot. Now turn this water into the sink. 
 Rinse the utensil with clean warm water, and on wiping 
 it dry it will be found perfectly sweet. 
 
 In washing dish-towels, brushes, the sink, etc., dis- 
 solved soda will be found most useful, cleaning and 
 sweetening all that it touches. It should be kept in a 
 large olive-bottle or preserving-jar, and should be labelled 
 " Washing-soda." To prepare it, put one pint of the 
 dry soda in a saucepan, kept for this purpose, and add 
 to it three quarts of boiling water. Let this mixture 
 stand upon the stove, stirring it frequently, until the 
 soda is dissolved. When cold, put into bottles. 
 
 It may be said, in passing, that this preparation, when 
 hot, is an excellent agent for cleaning and sweetening 
 the plumbing in the house. Pour a pint of the hot liquid 
 into each bowl, basin, and sink about once a fortnight. 
 As the liquid unites with grease, it keeps the kitchen 
 
CARE OF UTENSILS AND FURNITURE. 61 
 
 sink-pipes free of greasy deposits. It is well to buy 
 this soda by the quarter-barrel. It is extremely cheap 
 when bought by the quantity. The housekeeper should 
 attend to the dissolving of the soda herself, and be care- 
 ful that none of the solid article is taken from the 
 storeroom by anybody else, because it might be used 
 improperly in laundry work or for other purposes. 
 
 Every kitchen should be supplied with soft soap. 
 This can be made once a month with very little trouble. 
 It is almost impossible to keep unpainted tables and 
 floors perfectly clean without it. 
 
 Steel knives and forks should be cleaned with Bristol 
 brick after each meal. 
 
 Some kitchens have what is considered as a conven- 
 ience in the form of a scullery, where the dishes are 
 washed, the vegetables prepared, etc. They are not 
 desirable in any house, large or small. 
 
 The garbage pail or barrel should be washed once a 
 week. Monday, when there is plenty of hot suds, is 
 a good time for this. Scrub the pail with the suds, 
 using an old broom for the purpose. Now rinse with 
 clean hot water, to which has been added half a cupful 
 of dissolved soda. Drain, and dry in the sun. Wash 
 the cover also. 
 
 The care of the refrigerator is very important. Every 
 shelf should be taken out twice a week, and every part of 
 the refrigerator, except where the ice is kept, should be 
 washed and carefully wiped dry. The ice compartment 
 need be washed only once in two weeks. The greatest 
 Dare must be exercised in examining and washing the 
 refrigerator, else a bit of meat or fish, or some other 
 substance, may lodge in a corner or in the pipe, and 
 taint the entire contents. The waste-pipe of the re- 
 frigerator should not be connected with the sewer-pipe, 
 tf one wish to have the water carried off by the sewer, 
 have it drip from the pipe in the refrigerator into a 
 tunnel that is fitted to a pipe connected with the general 
 
62 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 waste-pipe of the house. Then there will be a current 
 of air between the refrigerator pipe and the tunnel. A 
 plumber will show you where to have a trap placed. 
 
 The stove or range requires careful and scientific use, 
 if one would get the best results with the smallest 
 amount of fuel and the least expenditure of time and 
 patience. It is marvellous what good work a stove will 
 do under all sorts of bad treatment. Every housekeeper 
 should make herself familiar with the construction of 
 her range. The same general principles are observed in 
 the making of all stoves, but each manufacturer has 
 some peculiarities of construction. The general princi- 
 ples are these : to have a free draught, causing the fuel 
 to burn easily and quickly, and to have dampers that 
 will so control this draught that the fuel shall burn 
 quickly or slowly as one may desire. Perfect ranges 
 have several dampers and checks, because the hot air is 
 not carried in one straight channel, but must be distrib- 
 uted throughout the range, on the top, the bottom, and 
 sides of the ovens, and also on the top of the range, 
 where the boiling, frying, stewing, etc., are done. There 
 must be several flues to carry on this distribution, and 
 each set should have a damper. A damper usually is an 
 iron rod, to which is attached a flat piece that acts as a 
 door to the flue. The turning or pulling backward or 
 forward of the iron rod opens or closes the flue. When 
 the door is opened the hot air is drawn into the flue and 
 carried through a certain space in the range : conse- 
 quently this part is hotter than any other except where 
 the fire is burning. 
 
 Now, it must be remembered that the hot air carries 
 with it fine ashes, a part of which lodge in these flues 
 and ultimately so clog them that only a small quantity 
 of air can pass through them ; hence the necessity for 
 frequent cleaning. With every modern range there 
 comes a card of instructions, which should be preserved. 
 It tells how to regulate the fire by means of the draughts 
 
CARE OF UTENSILS AND FURNITURE. 63 
 
 and dampers, and how to clean the flues. On getting a 
 new range a housekeeper should remove the covers and, 
 as she reads the printed instructions, work the dampers 
 until she becomes perfectly familiar with their positions 
 when open and when closed, and the probable effect on 
 the fire in each case. 
 
 There is one draught that is to be kept open only 
 while the lire is being started. As soon as the smoke 
 passes off this damper should be closed. Eemember that 
 it is not to be kept open until the fire becomes clear and 
 red, but only until the smoke passes off, say for ten or 
 fifteen minutes after the fire is lighted. This damper 
 does a great deal of mischief, because its office is so 
 poorly understood. It opens and closes the flue that is 
 connected with the chimney, so that, when open, the 
 draught is great, the fire burns rapidly, the top of the 
 range is hot, often red, and a large proportion of the 
 heat passes into the chimney. The oven is never hot 
 while this damper is open, and the coal burns out in 
 less than half the usual time. It will be seen that this 
 is the most important damper, and that it is necessary 
 to close it very soon after the fire is lighted. 
 
 After coal has been burning bright and clear for an 
 hour or two it begins to have a white look, and the heat 
 given out is not half so great as at first. Under ordi- 
 nary circumstances, a coal fire should last three or four 
 hours without being replenished, and this with cooking 
 going on all the while. This depends, however, upon 
 the proper use of the dampers and checks. 
 
 If the following rule be observed there will be a great 
 saving of patience as well as coal : Close the smoke- 
 damper as soon as the fire begins to burn. When the 
 coal is nearly all bright, close all the other draughts and 
 dampers unless a very hot oven be required, in which 
 case let the slide at the bottom of the grate remain open. 
 Just as soon as the oven or the top of the range is required 
 less hot, close all draughts and open the checks. When 
 
64 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 greater heat is required, open the draughts and close the 
 checks again. It is really like using an organ; when 
 soft, low tones are required the stops are closed, but as 
 one wishes to increase the volume of tone the stops are 
 opened. 
 
 Following this rule, the writer has frequently used a 
 lire for six hours without replenishing it; one hod of 
 coal being put on at the start. 
 
 The range should be washed off with soap and water, 
 and then rubbed with a stove-brush. The top may 
 be blacked, but the hearth and sides should only be 
 washed and brushed, as blacking would soil dresses and 
 aprons. 
 
 Good modern stoves are made in such a way that ashes 
 and cinders can be taken out without making much dust. 
 Now, in making a fire, first collect in the grate all the 
 ashes and cinders from the top of the stove ; then put on 
 the covers, shut the doors, and dump the contents of the 
 grate into the ash-pan. Remove the ash-pan and empty 
 its contents into the sifter ; then return the pan to its 
 place, and close the door. Put shavings or paper into 
 the grate, and place on top several pieces of light wood, 
 crossing them, so as to cause a draught of air through 
 them. Add three or four sticks of hard wood, and set 
 the shavings on fire, opening all the, draughts in the 
 stove. As soon as the wood begins to burn, cover it 
 about six inches deep with coal. Watch the fire to pre- 
 vent the coal from burning too red ; but just as soon as 
 it begins to take fire, close all the oven dampers, keeping 
 open only the slide in front of the grate. 
 
 Be careful that the coal does not come above the lin- 
 ing of the stove. A different practice will result in a 
 waste of fuel ; and besides, the fire will not be so bright 
 and clear, because the draught will not be so good. When 
 you are not using the fire, keep the dampers closed. It 
 will be ready when needed, and the draughts can be 
 opened then. , 
 
CARE OF UTENSILS AND FURNITURE. 65 
 
 If, after dinner, you wish to have a clear fire for bak- 
 ing purposes, fet the lire burn quite low ; then remove 
 all the covers, and with a long poker, rake the coals' 
 from one end of the grate to the other. When all the 
 ashes have been raked down in this way, and all the coal 
 has been separated, put two sticks of hard wood into the 
 stove, and fill up with fresh coal. Then the fire will be 
 quite as good as if freshly made. When you wish to 
 keep just enough fire to make tea and toast, put on cin- 
 ders after dinner, and shut all the dampers until twenty 
 minutes before the fire is again needed. Reopening the 
 draughts will quickly rekindle the fire. 
 
66 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 ABOUT FOOD. 
 
 MARKETING has been treated so fully in "Miss Par- 
 loa's New Cook Book and Marketing Guide " that there 
 is no occasion for an exhaustive article in this volume. 
 But new ideas constantly come to one who makes a 
 study of matters pertaining to the kitchen, and it seems 
 worth the while to record some of them here. 
 
 Fashion affects food as well as clothing, and many 
 articles in the market that may have no great value as a 
 food command exorbitant prices simply because they 
 are in fashion. For example, time was when sweet- 
 breads were almost given away; now they are rarely 
 sold for less than thirty cents a pair in large cities, and 
 in winter they often bring $1.50. At present, calves' 
 brains sell at ten cents a pair ; but as they are becoming 
 fashionable, doubtless they will in time be worth a quar- 
 ter of a dollar. With vegetables and fruit it is different, 
 because when fashion creates a demand for an article, 
 gardeners quickly give special attention to its cultiva- 
 tion, and the increased demand is met by an increased 
 supply, and prices become lower instead of higher. Good 
 sense, as well as fashion, dictates a free use of fruits and 
 vegetables, and our markets are well stocked with them 
 all the year round. Prices, too, are reasonable. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Cauliflower. 
 
 This vegetable, which used to be so expensive, is now 
 so cheap in the late summer and fall that the poorest 
 man can indulge in it, and besides being cheap at that 
 
ABOUT FOOD. 67 
 
 season, it also is large and perfect. It is found in large 
 markets at any season, but in the spring and early sum- 
 mer the heads are small and costly. It is a pity that so 
 few people know how to cook this delicious vegetable. 
 When bought, it should be white and firm, and the green 
 leaves surrounding it should be crisp. It always im- 
 proves the cauliflower to soak it in a pan of salted cold 
 water one table-spoonful of salt to two quarts of water 
 for an hour before cooking. This will freshen the 
 vegetable, and draw out worms or snails, if there be any 
 concealed in the leaves or head. 
 
 Asparagus. 
 
 Asparagus is now bleached in somewhat the same 
 manner that celery is. This is the fashion in New York 
 and its vicinity ; but it is an unfortunate fashion, for the 
 vegetable does not compare in flavor or tenderness with 
 the old-fashioned green asparagus. This vegetable used 
 to be good until about the last of June, after which it 
 became "woody." Now, however, it comes earlier and 
 stays later, being tender and delicate until the first of 
 August. This is such a delicious and healthful vegeta- 
 ble that it is a pity we cannot extend its season still 
 more. 
 
 Brussels Sprouts. 
 
 This vegetable, so scarce and expensive a few years 
 ago, is now quite common in our large markets. It is 
 raised in this country and also is imported from England. 
 It belongs to the cabbage family ; grows from three to 
 five feet in height, and produces from the stem small 
 heads resembling miniature cabbages. The stalk is usu- 
 ally covered with these little heads. The top of the 
 stalk terminates in a large head similar to a cabbage. 
 
 Brussels sprouts should be compact and firm, like heads 
 of cabbage. The loose heads will prove unsatisfactory. 
 The sprouts should be fresh and crisp. The outer leaves 
 
68 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 are taken off, and the firm heads are soaked in salted 
 cold water for an hour before cooking. 
 
 Broccoli. 
 
 Broccoli closely resembles cauliflower, and is treated in 
 much the same manner. It does not grow so well in this 
 country as cauliflower, and therefore is not cultivated to 
 the same extent. 
 
 Salsify. 
 
 This is found in the market the greater part of the 
 year. Its root is the part eaten, and it is about the shape 
 and color of a parsnip, but much smaller. Salsify is sold 
 in small bunches. It is a cheap and delicate vegetable, 
 and can be served in many ways. 
 
 Kohl-Rabi. 
 
 This is sometimes called turnip-rooted cabbage. When 
 this root is cooked it is treated like a turnip, and the 
 result is a dish with a flavor between that of a turnip 
 and a cabbage. Kohl-rabi can be kept through the 
 winter. 
 
 Sweet Spanish Peppers. 
 
 The large sweet Spanish pepper is now used while 
 green as a vegetable. It is much milder than the com- 
 mon bell-pepper, although they look so much alike that 
 it is often difficult to distinguish them. They are gener- 
 ally stuffed and baked. The ripe pods may be dried 
 and kept for seasoning many dishes which are improved 
 by the peculiar pungent flavor given by the pods. 
 
 The Egg-Plant. 
 
 This vegetable can be found in the market the greater 
 part of the year. It is in perfection through the sum- 
 mer, fall, and early part of winter. Like most of our 
 vegetables, this is supplied to the North by the South 
 in the early weeks of summer, and later in the season 
 
ABOUT FOOD. 
 
 the North reciprocates. The egg-plant is popular and 
 cheap, and when properly cooked is delicious. 
 
 Okra. 
 
 This is found in the market nearly all the year. Al- 
 ways highly prized at the South, it is becoming more 
 popular at the North every year. It is delicious as a 
 vegetable or in soup. The price varies considerably 
 with the season and supply. The pods should be green 
 and crisp. 
 
 Celeriac. 
 
 This vegetable is sometimes called German, and some- 
 times knob, celery. It is an irregular brownish root, 
 and is used as a vegetable and as a salad. It is cheap, 
 and keeps well for winter use if packed in sand or 
 earth. 
 
 Shallot. 
 
 The shallot belongs to the onion family. The large 
 bulb is made up of a number of small ones, which are 
 called cloves. This plant has not so strong an odor as 
 the common onion, and for that reason is preferred by 
 many in soups, sauces, ar?d salads. 
 
 Garlic. 
 
 Garlic is like the shallot in many ways. The root is 
 composed of numerous small bulbs, which are called 
 cloves. They are smaller than the cloves of the shallot, 
 and the flavor and odor differ somewhat. 
 
 Rocambole. 
 
 This vegetable is very much like garlic, but is milder. 
 
 Spanish Onions. 
 
 It is only a few years since the Spanish onion was 
 found only at fruit-stores. Now it can be bought in all 
 the markets. It is a large white onion, very delicate 
 in flavor and odor. Cut in thin shavings, it is used by 
 
70 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 itself as a salad, or is mixed with other vegetables to 
 give a delicate flavor of onion. It also is served as a 
 vegetable, fried, boiled, or stuffed and baked. 
 
 Escarole. 
 
 This vegetable is used principally as a salad. The 
 leaves should be broad and crisp. Escarole has a bitter 
 taste. It is particularly good in winter as a salad, 
 either served alone or mixed with lettuce. The French 
 esteem this as one of their best salads. Each year it is 
 becoming better known in this country, French garden- 
 ers introducing it into the city markets. 
 
 Barbe de Capucin, or Monk's Beard. 
 
 This is a variety of escarole. It is grown in dark 
 places, such as cellars or vaults. The leaves are long, 
 narrow, tender, and almost white. The flavor is a 
 pleasant bitter one. The vegetable makes a nice salad 
 by itself, or may be mixed with lettuce, sorrel, etc. It 
 is sometimes served in fish sauce or as a garnish for fish. 
 Barbe de Capucin and escarole belong to the endive 
 family. Either makes a most desirable salad to serve 
 with game. 
 
 Cress. 
 
 There are two kinds of cresses, the garden cress and 
 the water-cress, which is grown in water. They are 
 found in the market from early spring until very late 
 in the autumn. Cresses by themselves make a delicious 
 salad ; or they may be combined with young onions, 
 cucumbers, or tomatoes. Sometimes, too, they are served 
 with a simple dressing and a few green herbs. 
 
 Sorrel. 
 
 Sorrel is a vegetable that is particularly grateful in 
 the spring and early summer. It is found in the large 
 markets as early as February and March. This culti- 
 vated sorrel is much larger, milder, and tenderer than 
 
ABOUT FOOD. 71 
 
 the wild plant which grows all over the country. But 
 a little of the wild sorrel is often a great addition to a 
 salad, sauce, or soup. That which is found around 
 flower-beds is usually large and tender. 
 
 Fetticus. 
 
 This vegetable is sometimes called lamb's lettuce, and 
 sometimes corn salad. As a salad, it is not so pleasing 
 as those already mentioned ; but it is one of the earliest 
 green salads and is usually quite cheap. 
 
 Chervil, Borage, and Tarragon. 
 
 These are all excellent herbs for use in salads, soups, 
 and sauces. They may be found in the large markets 
 from early spring until late autumn. They can be 
 raised in the garden with the common herbs, such as 
 parsley, thyme, sage, etc. When chervil and tarragon 
 are in season, break up a small bunch of each they 
 will cost five cents apiece and put into two wide- 
 mouthed bottles. Now pour into each bottle about one 
 quart of vinegar. Put on the covers and set in a cool 
 place. At the end of a month strain off the vinegar, and 
 you will have tarragon and chervil vinegar ready for use 
 in salads or sauces. 
 
 While the herbs are fresh and cheap, tie up a bunch 
 of each and hang in the shade to dry. They will add 
 much to the flavor of soups and sauces in the winter. 
 
 FRUITS. 
 
 Fruit is an important item in the housekeeper's list of 
 supplies. Being of a perishable nature, judgment and 
 care must be used in the purchase and use of it. If one 
 have a cold, well- ventilated cellar, many things such as 
 apples, oranges, and pears may be bought in quantity 
 when cheap. But it is better to buy most of the fruits 
 only as they are required for the table. When berries 
 
72 MISS FARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 are in season it is best to buy only what is required for 
 each day, unless one be at a distance from the mar- 
 kets. Strawberries, blueberries, and blackberries keep 
 about equally well ; raspberries are the most perishable 
 of all our common fruits. You may put them in your 
 cellar or refrigerator at night, expecting to find them 
 firm and bright in the morning, and you will often be 
 sadly disappointed to find them one mass of mould. 
 When purchasing these berries for preserving, have all 
 your plans so made that you can do the work as soon as 
 the berries are brought home. This is the only way in 
 which to be sure of saving all. Other berries will keep 
 well for a day or more. 
 
 To keep fruit, avoid crowding it. The boxes or bowls 
 containing it should not be covered, and the room should 
 be cool, sweet, and well ventilated. Washing fruit mars 
 the flavor and softens the fruit, and it will not keep so 
 well. To some tastes fruit is more palatable if it has 
 been sprinkled with sugar and has stood for some hours 
 afterward. Berries, however, should not be treated in 
 this way unless it be necessary to do it in order to keep 
 them for a few hours, because the sugar draws out the 
 juice. Grapes, bananas, pears, watermelons, cantaloupes, 
 and pineapples all keep well in cold places, and should 
 be thoroughly chilled before they are served. 
 
 MEATS. 
 
 Among the various cuts of meat there are some which 
 are well known only to a few butchers and caterers. In 
 many small towns butchers do not know what the fillet 
 of beef is ; and although they may know, they frequently 
 are unwilling to cut it out for a customer, because it 
 injures the sale of the rest of the piece. In a small 
 part of the United States the hind-quarter of beef is so 
 cut that what is called a " short fillet " can be, and is, 
 taken from one of the cuts without loss to the buyer or 
 
ABOUT FOOD. 
 
 73 
 
 the seller of the rest of the cut from which it is taken. 
 This is often done in Boston. This short fillet is cut 
 from the rump, and rarely weighs more than two pounds 
 
 SIRLOIN ROAST. 
 
 A, Tenderloin. B, Back of Sirloin. C, Flank. D, Suet. 
 
 and a half. The price is seldom more than thirty-five 
 cents a pound. When a fillet is cut from the loin the 
 price charged is from seventy-five cents to a dollar a 
 pound ; and even at that price it does not always pay 
 
 SIRLOIN ROAST, WITH TENDERLOIN REMOVED. 
 
 A, Tenderloin. B, Back of Sirloin. C, Flank. 
 
 the butcher to sell it, because for most customers it spoils 
 the roasts or steaks that are left. 
 
 In a large or moderate-sized family it is not a bad 
 plan to buy a large sirloin roast, as the fillet can be cut 
 
74 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 out and used for one dish, and the flank be used for 
 braising, stewing, soup meat, etc. Or, the flank may be 
 left on the roast, folded over the place from which the 
 tenderloin was taken, and then fastened firmly with 
 skewers, giving a handsome roast. 
 
 In large establishments, like Delinonico's in New York, 
 where so many tenderloins of beef are served in various 
 ways, after removing the fillet, they cut off the flank, 
 using it for divers purposes, and then they cut the rest 
 of the joint into steaks, freeing it from the greater part 
 of the backbone. These pieces are called " short steaks," 
 and are delicious. 
 
 If one want a fillet weighing about three pounds, 
 enough for a party of twelve, get the first cut of the 
 sirloin, as this part has the thickest tenderloin. If the 
 cut be from a heavy animal, eighteen pounds will give 
 about three pounds of tenderloin. This piece would cost, 
 at 25 cents per pound, $4.50. If the three pounds of 
 tenderloin were bought separately, the lowest price would 
 be $2.25, and in all probability it would be $3. Besides, 
 a butcher will not always sell the tenderloin. 
 
 If the family be large, it will be economical and satis- 
 factory in cold weather to buy the first cut of the sir- 
 loin. With a small family, it will be better to buy only 
 the piece you want, no matter what the price, provided 
 you can get the butcher to cut it. 
 
 Entrecdte Steak. 
 
 This is a rib steak, and one that is little known and 
 little used in the United States. It is one of the best 
 steaks in the animal. The meat that is cut with one rib 
 will give two steaks. Cut the meat from the backbone 
 and the rib by slipping a sharp knife between the bones 
 and flesh. Stop where the flesh becomes thin on the 
 rib, and cut across the end of the meat. Now cut the 
 piece of clear meat into two steaks. The backbone and 
 ribs may be used for soups or stews. 
 
ABOUT FOOD. 75 
 
 Chuck Steaks. 
 
 Another steak that is frequently cut to take the place 
 of the round steak is the chuck steak. This is cut from 
 the chuck ribs. It makes an excellent cheap steak. It 
 is about four or five cents less a pound than the round 
 steak ; but this does not make it any cheaper than the 
 round, because there is so much bone in it. 
 
 Fricandeau of Veal. 
 
 This is another cut that it is difficult to get the butch- 
 ers to give you, even when they know what it is and 
 how it is obtained. There is the same objection to cut- 
 ting this piece from the leg that there is to taking the 
 
 Fricandeau of Veal. 
 
 tenderloin from the sirloin of beef ; namely, it spoils the 
 piece termed the fillet. The fricandeau consists of that 
 part of the leg of veal called the cushion or mousepiece, 
 and which the French call the noix. It is what in a leg of 
 beef would be called the top of the round. It costs about 
 thirty-five cents per pound. Three or four pounds is about 
 the average weight of a good-sized fricandeau. It should 
 be cut about four inches thick, and a large piece of the fat 
 called the udder should be left on it. A wooden vegetable- 
 masher should be dipped in cold water, and the fricandeau 
 be beaten flat until it is only about three inches thick. 
 
 Fillet of Veal. 
 
 The entire fillet of veal, or a piece from the shoulder, 
 is frequently used for a fricandeau, but it does not give 
 the same result that the cushion gives. 
 
76 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 The fillet of veal is the cut from the upper part of the 
 leg. It includes all the upper part, and may be from 
 
 Fillet of Veal. Part above dotted line is the fricandeau. 
 
 four to six inches thick. Only one good fillet can be cut 
 from a leg of veal. It costs about thirty cents a pound. 
 
 Veal Cutlets. 
 
 These are often cut from the leg, and many persons 
 are unacquainted with cutlets from any other part of the 
 animal. The rib chops are the true cutlets, and are much 
 more tender and savory than those obtained from the leg. 
 They are cut and trimmed like a mutton-chop when it is 
 taken from the ribs; but as they must be cut thinner, 
 there are three cutlets to two ribs, that is, there are 
 two cutlets with the rib bones and one without any bone. 
 Have all the trimmings from these cutlets sent home for 
 the soup-pot. 
 
 Porterhouse Chops. 
 
 These chops are but little known, but they are very 
 popular with gentlemen who try them once. They re- 
 semble English chops. This is the way they are cut : 
 Trim nearly all the flank from a loin of mutton. Now, 
 about one inch from the end of the loin, saw through the 
 backbone, being careful not to cut into the meat. Move 
 the saw one inch farther up the loin and cut through the 
 bone again, and then cut the chop off with a sharp knife. 
 This gives a chop two inches thick, with the bone sawed 
 in two. Now take a sharp knife and cut out half of the 
 
ABOUT FOOD. 77 
 
 bone, being careful not to cut the meat too much. Trim 
 off some of the fat ; then place the chop on its side, hav- 
 ing the side in which the bone remains come under. 
 Give it two or three blows with the flat side of the 
 cleaver, and it will be flattened out to resemble a large 
 English chop and be about one inch thick. Any butcher 
 should be able to cut such chops by these directions. 
 
 It is very important, when trimming off the fat, to do 
 the work in just the right way. Having the fatty side 
 of the chop nearest you, cut away from the centre so as 
 to leave a ridge of fat extending the length of the chop ; 
 yet all parts of the back of the chop should be covered 
 with at least a little fat. When the meat is pounded it 
 will be seen that the fat does not spread readily, and 
 that but for this careful trimming, the chop would look 
 over-weighted with fat. 
 
 Mutton. 
 
 The strong taste in mutton to which people often ob- 
 ject is largely due to a lack of proper care in trimming 
 and cooking the meat. This flavor, instead of being a 
 quality belonging to the lean part of the meat, is almost 
 always given by the fat. Frequently, when the sheep 
 are skinned, a thin membrane to which a little wool 
 clings, is left on. It is hardly perceptible unless closely 
 examined. This is what gives that rather unpleasant 
 flavor to some properly cooked meat. 
 
 A thin shaving of fat should be taken off every piece 
 of mutton, whether it be a chop, leg, or loin. A very 
 ' sharp knife will be required for this operation. 
 
 Another cause of the taste so disagreeable in mutton 
 is, that it is often fried instead of broiled ; or if it be 
 " roasted," it is put into a dripping-pan without a rack or 
 grate under it, and it stews in its own fat instead of be- 
 ing roasted. Even a delicate piece of spring lamb can 
 be made to taste strong and r^sagreeable by this method 
 of cooking. 
 
78 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Tongues. 
 
 Every one knows the value of a beef tongue, but few 
 people realize how delicious a calf's, sheep's, lamb's, or 
 pig's tongue may be. There is so little demand for them 
 that they are cheap. Get those which are plump, firm, 
 and rather white. When they look dark and flabby they 
 have come from a poorly fed animal, and will be found 
 tough and without good flavor. 
 
 These small tongues may be put in brine for a few 
 days and then boiled, or they may be partially boiled 
 and then braised, or they may be stewed. They are 
 cheap, and, cold or hot, make a handsome dish. 
 
 Sweetbreads. 
 
 The calf and young lamb are the animals that yield 
 the sweetbreads which are used as food. Lamb sweet- 
 breads usually are left in the forequarter, and are cooked 
 with it. They are rarely cooked separately. They are, 
 however, sometimes sold by the pound or pair, the same 
 as veal sweetbreads. 
 
 Sweetbreads are good only so long as the animal is fed 
 chiefly on milk. The sweetbreads from a calf that has 
 been fed wholly on grass for one or two weeks before 
 being slaughtered will be dark, flabby, and tough, where- 
 as those from a calf that has been fed generously with 
 milk will be white, firm, and tender. Sweetbreads spoil 
 very quickly, and should not be kept long, even on ice. 
 In the late spring and summer they are the cheapest, but 
 in winter they are very expensive and scarce. Like all 
 other articles of food, they may be frozen, and kept in 
 that way for months at a time. 
 
 GAME. 
 
 The local names given to some kinds of game are 
 very confusing to the inexperienced housekeeper. This 
 is particularly the case with partridges, grouse, and 
 
ABOUT FOOD. 79 
 
 quail. The quail is a small bird, about the size of a 
 squab, and is kiiown by the name of quail throughout 
 the North and West. At the South, however, this bird 
 is known as the partridge. 
 
 Again, the real partridge, the grouse, and the ptar- 
 migan are often indiscriminately called grouse or par- 
 tridge. There is this distinction between partridge 
 and grouse : the meat of the former is white, and that 
 of the latter dark. The partridge is frequently called 
 ruffled grouse. These birds are common in the Eastern 
 States. The season for them is between October and 
 January. 
 
 Grouse is sometimes called prairie chicken and some- 
 times red grouse. This bird is found in great abundance 
 in the West. The season is from September to April 
 in some sections of the country, and in others it is from 
 October to January. Game laws vary considerably in 
 the several States. 
 
 Ptarmigan is not so well known as the other two 
 birds, but it is often sold under the name of grouse, or 
 white-breasted grouse. It resembles the grouse very 
 closely ; but the plumage, instead of being brown, like 
 that of the true grouse, is almost white. The feet are 
 covered with fine white feathers resembling fur. This 
 bird is not quite so large as the grouse, and the meat 
 is a little drier. It comes from the cold climate of 
 Canada and the country bordering on Hudson Bay. It 
 is very welcome in the market ; for it comes in about the 
 last of January, when the game law prohibits the sale 
 of grouse. Ptarmigan is prepared in exactly the same 
 manner as grouse. 
 
 The same cold region from which it comes supplies 
 the markets with antelope, which reaches the markets 
 as deer goes out. This is a smaller animal than the 
 deer, and its flesh is paler and more delicate. It is, 
 however, cooked in aboutrthe same manner. 
 
80 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Lobsters. 
 
 A word in regard to lobsters. In sections of the coun- 
 try where lobsters are caught and consumed in large 
 quantities, they are never brought into the market alive 
 except to fill special orders. A short time after the 
 lobster- catchers take them from the pots or cages they 
 are plunged into kettles of boiling salt water. It stands 
 to reason that the meat of these lobsters must be better 
 flavored and more healthful than that of lobsters which 
 are kept out of water several days before being cooked. 
 Then, too, these men make a business of boiling lobsters, 
 and know just how to do it. The result is, firm fine- 
 flavored meat. 
 
 One of the arguments against buying boiled lobsters 
 is that one cannot tell whether they are stale or fresh. 
 If the lobster be stale, the tail, when drawn out, will be 
 found limp, and will not spring back ; besides, a stale 
 lobster , always 'gives out a very unpleasant odor. It 
 seems as if everything were in favor of the lobster's 
 being boiled as soon as taken from the water. 
 
 The time of boiling this fish depends upon the size. 
 They rarely weigh more than three pounds now, and are 
 often as light as a pound and a half. The small ones 
 can be boiled in twelve or fifteen minutes, and the large 
 ones that is, those weighing three pounds in 
 twenty or twenty-five minutes. Too rapid and too long- 
 boiling makes them tough. 
 
 Shrimp. 
 
 Shrimp are usually found in the market in the cooked 
 state. They are plunged into boiling water as soon as 
 possible after being taken from the net. Shrimp are 
 generally sold in the Southern markets in the shell, but 
 in the Northern markets they are usually shelled. They 
 
ABOUT FOOD. 81 
 
 are nice in soup, fish sauces, salads, and curries. Canned 
 shrimp is a nice article. Either canned or fresh shrimp 
 are usually so salt that they are improved by standing 
 m cold water for ten minutes or more before being 
 used. 
 
 Prawns. 
 
 These fish are something like shrimp, but are larger 
 and coarser. They are prepared in the same manner as 
 shrimp. 
 
 Crawfish. 
 
 Crawfish are a sort of fresh-water lobster in miniature. 
 They are usually sold by the dozen and in the shells. 
 They are used for bisques and to decorate other dishes 
 of fish. 
 
 FILLETS. 
 
 The word " fillet," when used in a culinary sense, 
 means a delicate, tender piece ; so when we wish for a 
 fillet of fish, flesh, or fowl, we take it from the tenderest 
 part of the animal. All the flesh of fish except the 
 flank can be cut into small fillets. 
 
 Fillet of beef is the tenderloin; fillet of veal, the 
 upper part of the leg ; fillet of fowl or birds, the breasts. 
 There are four fillets in the breast of every fowl or bird, 
 two large and two small. The small fillets are called 
 minion fillets. Grouse and other birds are frequently 
 spoiled by shot; or they are sometimes kept so long 
 that only the breast is sweet. They are then bought 
 for the fillets. If you wish, the butcher will fillet them 
 for you. 
 
 When buying fish to fillet, save in the case of halibut 
 or salmon, it is best to get rather small fish that will 
 not give more than four fillets to one fish. Bass and 
 flounder are used the most for this purpose. Bass is 
 dark and rich, and the price is rather high. Flounder 
 
82 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 is white and delicate, and always cheap. It is very 
 much like sole, and fashionable people always call it 
 sole. The fact is, sole has never been caught in Ameri- 
 can waters ; but in future years there may be a supply, 
 as the Fish Commissioners have made an attempt to 
 introduce them into our waters. 
 
 WHEN MEAT AND FISH ARE GOOD. 
 
 Almost all fish are perfect only directly after they come 
 from the water, and begin to deteriorate soon afterward. 
 The lighter and more delicate the fish, the poorer the 
 keeping qualities. Nothing could be more delicate than 
 the white fish when taken from the great Western lakes, 
 but there are few fish that bear transportation so poorly. 
 Again, codfish, when cooked directly after it is taken 
 from the sea, is a fish fit to place before a king ; but when 
 it has been packed in ice and carried over the country, 
 it loses its fine characteristics and becomes rather ordi- 
 nary food unless great pains be taken in its preparation. 
 The richer fish, like salmon, halibut, bass, etc., will bear 
 transportation and keeping better than the lighter kinds. 
 
 It is well to remember this, that an ordinary fish, 
 freshly caught and cooked, will always surpass in deli- 
 cacy and wholesomeness a fish of the rarer and richer 
 kind that has been kept days or weeks, as is often the 
 case, packed in ice. 
 
 It is a good plan to confine the greater part of the fish 
 purchased to those kinds which are found in the waters 
 near home. Of course, there are localities where this 
 would mean nothing but such small fry as is caught in 
 brooks and ponds, and in such places one must get that 
 which is brought to the market. 
 
 Never buy stale fish. It will look flabby and dark, 
 and will have an unpleasant odor. Fresh fish is firm ; 
 the eyes are full and rather bright, and the odor, while 
 it is always fishy, will not be disagreeable. 
 
ABOUT FOOD. 83 
 
 Turbot is an exception to the general rule. It is 
 better for twenty-four or forty-eight hours' keeping. 
 
 There is one thing which is not generally understood 
 by butchers and housekeepers. It is that while the 
 fibres of the flesh of an animal are set, as they are as 
 soon as the animal cools after being killed, the meat is 
 much harder than at any other time. For this reason it 
 should not be cooked while in this state. The meat 
 should hang at least twelve hours after the fibres become 
 set. Chickens, however, may be dressed and cooked 
 while yet warm, and the meat will be found tender, 
 juicy, and of fine flavor. Let the same chickens stand 
 until the fibres get hard and rigid, and then cook them, 
 and the meat will not be nearly so tender and juicy. 
 This is true of all animals : the meat should be cooked 
 either while it still contains the natural heat or not 
 until after the muscles have relaxed ; the time of relaxa- 
 tion being from twelve to twenty-four hours after the 
 animal is killed. This time answers very well for 
 poultry, veal, and lamb. The last two meats will not 
 retain a sweet flavor many days. Mutton and beef, to 
 be in perfection, should be hung for about three weeks 
 in a place where the temperature is low. This, of course, 
 is not possible in warm weather or in a warm country, 
 except where there are large refrigerators ; but all first- 
 class butchers have such refrigerators. 
 
 When buying meat, remember that the flesh of ma- 
 tured animals will keep much longer than that of young 
 animals. 
 
 Here is a point to bear in mind when purchasing 
 poultry. Select that which is " dry picked," though it 
 may cost several cents more a pound. Poultry that is 
 scalded before being picked loses much of its flavor and 
 will not keep so well. It may be recognized by the skin, 
 which will be smooth, and drawn rather tight over the 
 flesh. The fowl will have a plump appearance because 
 of the contraction of the skin by the heat. About three- 
 
84 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 fourths of the poultry that is brought into the markets 
 is scalded, though scalding is practised much more in 
 the West and South than in the East. 
 
 FROZEN FOOD. 
 
 Fish, game, poultry, sweetbreads, etc., often are frozen, 
 either to permit of their being transported to places 
 where the supply of such articles is scanty, or to provide 
 in times of plenty for demands when the stock shall 
 have run low. Large quantities of frozen food are 
 shipped in the course of a year from American ports to 
 large cities in Europe, being kept in refrigerators on the 
 passage. But frozen meats and fish are not to be com- 
 pared in flavor with fresh articles, and should be used 
 only when it is impossible to obtain anything better. 
 There should be but a short interval between the thawing 
 and cooking. 
 
 CANNED GOODS. 
 
 In every household more or less canned goods are 
 used ; and as the consumption appears to increase stead- 
 ily, this subject is worth considering at some length. 
 When people can afford the luxury, fruits, fish, and vege- 
 tables preserved in glass jars are preferred to those in 
 tin ; but the great difference in cost makes an immense 
 difference in the sales, although the sale of food con- 
 tained in jars has grown considerably within the last few 
 years. 
 
 Every little while there is a scare in regard to canned 
 goods, caused by reports of poisoning by eating canned 
 meat or fish. The best of authorities claim that the 
 poisoning is not caused by the cans, but that the contents 
 were not in good condition when packed. Sometimes, 
 too, the cans are not carefully sealed, and air finds its 
 way into them. This will cause decomposition, and 
 gases will be generated, 
 
ABOUT FOOD. 85 
 
 After cans have been filled with the material to be pre- 
 served, the tops are soldered on, a small hole being left 
 in each piece. The cans are next placed in a bath, the 
 temperature of which is gradually raised until all the air 
 is expelled from the cans through the small opening in 
 the cover. This opening is now closed and soldered. If 
 all this work be done properly, the food will keep for 
 years. The cans are now put in a test-room, where the 
 temperature is very high. If they have not been prop- 
 erly sealed, the food will begin to decompose, gas will be 
 generated, and the ends will begin to bulge out. Some- 
 times dishonest firms have these cans punctured and re- 
 sealed. This is not common ; but since it is sometimes 
 done, the housekeeper should examine each can, and if 
 she finds that two holes have been made in the cover, 
 should reject the can. 
 
 Good and Easy Tests of Wholesomeness. 
 
 A prominent physician of Brooklyn, IS". Y., gives these 
 rules for testing canned goods. If a housekeeper fol- 
 lows them she will not be liable to use food that has 
 decomposed in the slightest degree. 
 
 " Every cap should be examined ; and if two holes be 
 found in it, send the can to the Health Board, with its 
 contents, and the name of the grocer who sold it. 
 
 " Reject every article of canned food that does not 
 show the line of resin around the edge of the solder of 
 the cap, the same as that seen on- the seam at the side of 
 the can. 
 
 " Press up the bottom of the can. If decomposition is 
 commencing, the tin will rattle the same as the bottom 
 of the oiler of a sewing-machine does. If the goods be 
 sound, it will be solid, and there will be no rattle to the 
 tin. 
 
 " Reject every can that shows any rust around the cap 
 on the inside of the head of the can." 
 
86 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Sources of Danger. 
 
 There are other sources of danger besides decomposi- 
 tion. Many folk fear tin or lead poisoning. The conclu- 
 sion has been reached by some men who have investigated 
 the matter with much care that there is no danger to be 
 feared from the cans, but that the solder sometimes causes 
 trouble. The articles most likely to be tinctured are 
 those containing a good deal of acid. One physician 
 found the sides and bottom of a can were fastened by 
 the usual resin amalgam, and were perfectly bright and 
 sound ; but a trained tinsmith pointed out that the cap 
 of the can was fastened on with an amalgam made of 
 muriate of zinc. The tin was corroded around the cap 
 on the inside of the can. The mechanic explained that 
 pieces of zinc are placed in muriatic acid and dissolved, 
 and this saturated solution of zinc had been painted with 
 a brush into the grooves of the head of the can. He 
 said this was a very favorite amalgam with roofers, on 
 account of the quickness with which it could be applied, 
 but that good architects and builders would not allow 
 its use, because it rotted the tin. It is safe to conclude 
 that wherever the inside of a can-lid shows that the tin 
 has come off in patches, something has dissolved it, and 
 it is mixed with the can's contents. 
 
 Food should not be allowed to stand for many hours in 
 an open can. The best way is to turn it into an earthen 
 dish as soon as the can is opened. 
 
 French Peas* 
 
 French peas have been very popular in the past. They 
 are delicate and of a good color. The delicacy comes 
 from their being picked while yet small and young, and 
 they are also naturally greener on this account. The 
 Boards of Health in several cities have been examining 
 canned peas, and have found that many brands are dan- 
 gerous ; sulphate of copper being used to make the peas 
 
ABOUT FOOD. 87 
 
 retain their beautiful color. In some places a warning 
 has been given by the authorities against the use of the 
 following-named brands : 
 
 Henry Deler et O, petit pois moyens. 
 
 Daudicole'e et Gaudin, Bordeaux, petit poia inoyeus. 
 
 J. Nouville, Bordeaux, petit pois moyens. 
 
 Perry fils, A. Lazun, petit pois verts. 
 
 E. Estibal, Bordeaux, petit pois extra tins. 
 
 E. M. Daelzin, Bordeaux, preparation & FAnglaise. 
 D. M. Ansone, Bordeaux, petit pois verts. 
 
 L. Carpe et O, Lundeville, haricots verts extra fins. 
 Soule et Prise, Bordeaux, petit pois verts. 
 
 F. Fiton aine, Bordeaux, petit pois verts au naturel 
 
 John Moir & Son, London, Aberdeen, and Seville, petit pois fins. 
 Charles Julien, Paris, petit pois. 
 Barton fils, (three kinds) petit pois fins. 
 Fontaine Frferes, Paris, petit pois extra fins. 
 Q. Talbot, Bordeaux, petit pois verts extra fins. 
 
 G. Garies, aine et fils, (two kinds) petit pois fins. 
 Louit Freres et O, petit pois surfins. 
 
 B. Eygrien, petit pois verts. 
 
 The writer has freely used French peas no particu- 
 lar brand for a great many years, and has never known 
 of any ill effects from eating them. In preparing these 
 peas, as with all canned peas or other green vegetables, 
 the water in which they were canned was always drained 
 off and they were then rinsed in clean cold water. 
 
 Canned Goods a Blessing. 
 
 Taken for all and all, canned foods, especially fruits 
 and vegetables, are a great blessing, and as safe as most 
 of the food that we use. A quartermaster in the regular 
 army, who has held that position for years, and at various 
 posts where canned food was a necessity, says that he 
 never knew of a case of poisoning from its use. 
 
 When buying canned goods of any kind, always try to 
 get those which have been put up near where the fruit 
 or vegetable is found in the best state. Apricots that 
 
88 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 are canned in Southern California are better than those 
 from points farther north, where the fruit does not ripen 
 so perfectly ; peaches that are packed near the orchards 
 where they grow are superior to those canned in large 
 cities. Blueberries and huckleberries in tin are said to 
 be very dangerous, and should not be used at all. 
 
 There is hardly a food product that is not available at 
 all times of the year, now that canning and preserving- 
 are brought to such perfection ; and yet no housekeeper 
 should use canned food if she can get just as good an 
 article in a fresh state. 
 
 Among the canned and potted goods there are a few 
 which may be classed among luxuries. Some of these 
 are only imperfectly known. For the benefit of the young- 
 housekeeper, brief mention will be made of these goods 
 and their uses. 
 
 Anchovies. 
 
 These fish are prepared in several ways for the market. 
 Sometimes they are preserved whole, in either oil or brine, 
 and in small bottles. They come under the head of 
 relishes in this form, and are served on toast, in salads, 
 omelets, and sauces. Anchovy paste and anchovy es- 
 sence are sold in small jars and bottles. These prepara- 
 tions are used on toast and in sauces. They are said to 
 be adulterated with coloring matter, and for this rea- 
 son many persons prefer to buy the bottled whole fish 
 and make their own paste or -essence. These prepara- 
 tions of anchovy are of great value in making many fish 
 sauces and dainty little relishes for an elegant dinner ov 
 supper. 
 
 Russian Caviare. 
 
 Caviare is the roe of the sturgeon. It is put up in 
 small cans, which cost fifty cents. It is served on toast 
 with a bit of lemon. Like the anchovies on toast, cavi- 
 are may be served at the beginning or at an early stage 
 of the dinner. It is also served as a relish at gentle- 
 men's suppers. 
 
ABOUT FOOD. 89 
 
 Truffles. 
 
 Truffles are being used in this country much more 
 freely than formerly. They are imported in small cans 
 from France, where the finest truffles in the world are 
 obtained. They are found in oak groves, several inches 
 beneath the surface of the earth. They grow in Eng- 
 land, but are not so large nor fine-flavored as those found 
 in France. It is said that they have also been gathered 
 in the oak groves in California. 
 
 When they are taken from the earth the aroma is very 
 fine, but after the truffles have been exposed to the air 
 for a time, much of this passes off. The truffles that 
 come in cans have very little of the flavor or odor of the 
 fresh ones. In no food adjunct does one get so little for 
 the money. The smallest-sized can, holding a gill, costs 
 sixty cents. 
 
 Truffles are used as a garnish and to flavor sauces and 
 made dishes. When only a part of a can is needed, the 
 remainder may be covered with salad oil and kept in a 
 cool place until required for use. They must be washed 
 free of the oil before using. 
 
 Cdpes. 
 
 Cepes are a species of mushroom, grown largely in 
 Russia and to some extent in France. They are thicker 
 and firmer than mushrooms. They come canned in oil. 
 After they have been washed free of the oil they will be 
 ready for use, the same as mushrooms. 
 
 When it is impossible to get large fresh mushrooms 
 for broiling, cepes can be used for this purpose with sat- 
 isfactory results. 
 
 Foie Gras. 
 
 Foie gras fat liver is the liver of a goose that has 
 been kept fastened in one position and fed generously 
 with corn meal for several weeks. Under this treatment 
 the livers grow to an enormous size. They are prepared 
 
90 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 for the market in several ways : they are studded with 
 truffles, cooked, and then packed in tin cans or in flat 
 earthen jars, being in the latter case covered with a thick 
 layer of fat to exclude the air ; or they are prepared 
 without the truffles, and are of course sold for less. 
 Sometimes force-meat is packed with them, for use in 
 making a pate. Occasionally one sees them put up with 
 force-meat, seasoning, and a crust of puff paste. In this 
 form they are shipped all over the world. 
 
 The simplest form in which the foie gras is canned is 
 the most popular, because it is the cheapest, and the liv- 
 ers can then be prepared in any way that suits the house- 
 keeper's taste. The price of a small jar, holding about 
 half a pint, is $ 1.25. This is enough for a small dish. 
 
 Pat3 de foie gras is nearly always served cold in some 
 form, and is generally served at a luncheon or supper, if 
 at all. 
 
 Suggestions to Housekeepers. 
 
 The list of the canned, potted, and bottled delicacies 
 for the table is very long, and one can buy at first-class 
 groceries almost everything that would be needed for a 
 dinner, and few of the dishes require any preparation 
 for the table other than heating. If a housekeeper 
 should desire to make a selection of these prepared 
 articles, for her use when away from the markets, she 
 can send to a first-class grocer for his catalogue. She 
 will find there a list of soups, fish, meats, vegetables, 
 preserves, wine jelly, dessert biscuit, etc., from which to 
 choose. 
 
 RELISHES. 
 
 India chutney is a sauce that is held in high favor by 
 gentlemen. It is not very expensive, and keeps well. 
 It is a combination of apples, onions, ginger, vinegar, 
 lemon juice, sugar, and other seasonings. Sometimes 
 tomatoes are used. It is served the same as pickles, to 
 
ABOUT FOOD. 91 
 
 which class of relishes it belongs. It is also added to 
 some fish sauces. 
 
 Soy is a sauce made in China and Japan. It is a thick 
 reddish-brown liquid, and is used in many fish sauces. 
 
 The queen olive is very large, and is particularly well 
 adapted to the purposes of cooiing ; therefore, when the 
 olives are to be used as a garnish in a sauce or a salad, 
 or when they are to be stoned and stuffed for a relish, 
 the queen variety is the best for use. 
 
 The " baby " olive is considered as the most desirable 
 for ordinary table use. 
 
 Stuffed olives come bottled, the same as the plain fruit. 
 They make a pleasing variation as a relish for the table 
 or for a picnic party. 
 
 FLAVORS. 
 
 Some of the flavors which have been in use in Euro- 
 pean cookery for the last century or more are beginning 
 to be used freely in this country. Cordials are among 
 the most popular flavors for various kinds of creams and 
 jellies. They are made by adding a rich syrup (obtained 
 by boiling sugar and water together) to distilled spirits, 
 and flavoring the mixture with various fruits and spices. 
 These cordials are always rather thick. They are some- 
 times clear and sometimes slightly colored. Mention 
 will be made only of those used in cookery. 
 
 Maraschino is flavored with a bitter cherry. 
 
 Cura$oa is flavored with orange-peel. 
 
 Noyau is flavored with the kernels of the peach and 
 apricot. 
 
 Eau de vie de Dantzic is made of brandy, is highly 
 flavored, and has gold leaf distributed through it. This 
 cordial is used in making jellies. There is rarely 
 enough gold leaf in it to give a pretty effect, and a small 
 quantity may be cut up fine and put in the bottl? when 
 it is opened. A small book of gold leaf can be bought 
 for half a dollar or a less amount. 
 
92 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Cordials are very strong, arid only a small quantity is 
 required to flavor a dish. 
 
 In buying rum for cooking purposes, get Santa Cruz. 
 A small pint bottle will* answer in a small family for a 
 year, if it be used only for flavoring creams or puddings. 
 
 CEREALS. 
 
 Flour. 
 
 Flour made from wheat is so largely used that it is 
 one of the most important items in the housekeeper's 
 list of food supplies. 
 
 The processes of milling have changed a good deal 
 within the last twenty-five years. We now have what is 
 called low milling, high milling, and half-high milling. 
 Low milling is the old process of grinding between two 
 stones, and gives us the old-process, or pastry, flour. 
 High milling is the new process of cracking the wheat 
 between rollers. Flour made by the first process is 
 smooth to the touch, and when pressed into a ball in the 
 hand, retains its shape. This flour is particularly nice 
 for cake and pastry, but the ordinary brands do not make 
 good bread. 
 
 There is a process followed by many millers, called 
 half-high milling, which gives flour good for all pur- 
 poses. Nothing is better for bread than the best quality 
 of the new-process flour. There are dozens of mills 
 all over the country making an equally good article. 
 Housekeepers should remember this; and when they 
 become accustomed to one brand, if it proves satis- 
 factory, they should not change for an unknown brand. 
 It is frequently the case that the flour from one mill 
 will require a little different treatment from that made 
 in another. Bread-making demands so much care that a 
 housekeeper should take no chances in the work. The 
 best flour is the cheapest, as there is no waste* in 
 using it. 
 
ABOUT FOOD. 93 
 
 New flour will not make so good bread as that which 
 has been kept for a few months after milling. New flour 
 made from good wheat will have a very sweet, nutty 
 flavor ; but it is a difficult matter to make light, delicate 
 bread of it. The dough will be sticky, and what cooks 
 term " runny." 
 
 Flour should be kept in a cool, dry room, the barrel 
 being placed on a 1'ow rack, so that there shall be a free 
 circulation of air under it. 
 
 The best flour will have a tinge of yellow; reject 
 flour that has a grayish color. 
 
 A flour that retains the greater part of the wheat is 
 made in Lockport, N. Y. It is sold under the name of 
 "Franklin Mills Entire Wheat Flour." It is dark- 
 colored, and makes a rather brown bread or muffin. 
 The bread made of it is very sweet and nutritious. The 
 dough must be made much softer than with the ordinary 
 flour, and the beating and kneading be very thorough. 
 
 Rye Flour and Meal. 
 
 Rye flour is used extensively in some parts of the 
 country. It is a fine-bolted flour made of rye. The 
 treatment of it in bread is about the same as that of 
 the entire-wheat flour. 
 
 Rye meal is used much more than the flour in all the 
 New England States except Connecticut, where the flour 
 is used very commonly. Outside of New England it is 
 difficult to get the meal. You order meal, and almost 
 invariably they will send you flour. For muffins, Boston 
 brown bread, and mush, the meal is indispensable. Only 
 a small quantity should be bought at a time, and the 
 meal should be kept in a cool, dry place. 
 
 Graham. 
 
 Graham is one of the most uncertain of the bread 
 materials with which we have to deal. A large part of 
 it is made by mixing a poor quality of flour with coarse 
 
94 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 bran. In buying graham, select that containing a rather 
 fine bran, which does not separate readily from the flour 
 when shaken in the hand. The Health Food Company 
 makes an excellent graham j and when there is any doubt 
 as to the quality of the ordinary graham, it would be 
 wise to purchase that sold by this company. The price 
 is much higher than that of the ordinary article. 
 
 There are many mills which supply the pure article, 
 but there are so many which do not that one is often at 
 a loss to know where to get the best. The mills at 
 Akron, Ohio, make an excellent graham, and also a good 
 quality of oatmeal. 
 
 Fine granulated meal is a fine quality of graham, 
 manufactured by the Health Food Company. It makes 
 delicious bread and muffins. 
 
 Corn Meal. 
 
 Corn meal, past and present, is an interesting subject. 
 The changing quality of this meal is a source of much 
 annoyance to the housekeeper of to-day. Rules which 
 always worked to perfection in the past are now as un- 
 certain as the weather. The old process of making corn 
 meal was to take corn which had dried naturally for a 
 few months, and crush it between mill-stones. This gave 
 a sweet-flavored but uneven meal, some parts being as 
 fine as flour, while others were rather coarse ; besides, 
 there was a considerable amount of coarse bran. As the 
 corn was not entirely free of moisture, and was heated 
 in being crushed between the mill-stones, it could not 
 be relied upon to keep good ; a few weeks was as long 
 a time as it was expected to remain sweet. It is to be 
 regretted that this delicious meal has passed away. 
 
 About fifteen or twenty years ago the granulated meal 
 began to appear in the market. It was sweet, dry, and 
 of even texture, being cut instead of being ground be- 
 tween stones. The corn was thoroughly dried before 
 being sent to the mill ; at first it was kept for two or 
 
ABOUT FOOD. 95 
 
 three years, until all the moisture had evaporated. This 
 new kind of meal was very satisfactory, because it was 
 of uniform quality and would keep for any length of 
 time. If the manufacturers had been content to follow 
 this process up to the present time, housekeepers would 
 have been well pleased ; but the drying of the corn was 
 not rapid enough for the millers, who soon began to use 
 kilns. At the outset of the new departure the corn was 
 dried slowly and at a low temperature, and the meal 
 was nearly as good as that made by the original method. 
 But the time for drying has been reduced more and 
 more, until now the grains of the corn meal are as hard 
 as the grains of hominy, and it is rather hard to distin- 
 guish between the two. Then, too, the meal is ground 
 much finer than formerly. All these changes in the 
 meal have damaged it considerably, and it is almost 
 impossible to get the moist, sweet corn-bread of years 
 gone by. If in using old receipts for corn bread, one- 
 eighth of the quantity of meal called for be omitted, the 
 bread will be nearer what it should be than it will if all 
 the meal be used. 
 
 Hominy, Grits, etc. 
 
 Within a few years a great many new preparations 
 have been manufactured from the cereals. Nearly all 
 these goods have been prepared with a view to their use 
 in breakfast dishes. Some of them have been a success, 
 and others a bad failure. Since it has become the custom 
 to have mush of some kind for breakfast, and so many 
 people cannot eat oatmeal, other materials are substituted 
 for the old-fashioned cracked wheat and oatmeal. 
 
 Wheat germ meal is one of the most agreeable of the 
 new preparations. It comes in small packages, and is 
 quickly and easily cooked. 
 
 Hominy snow flakes is another new preparation which 
 makes a pleasant change on the breakfast-table or for 
 the nursery. 
 
96 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Grits is the name given to fine hominy in some sec- 
 tions of the South, " hominy " there meaning the coarse 
 hominy. Both the coarse and fine hominy are desirable 
 food materials, and should be found in every household. 
 The fine hominy can be used for many more purposes than 
 the coarse, and is therefore more desirable. The former 
 comes in five-pound packages ; the coarser kinds can be 
 bought in bulk. 
 
 MOLASSES. 
 
 When sugar was made in the old-fashioned way it 
 was always possible to obtain good black molasses. 
 Now that sugar is finally boiled in vacuum pans, the 
 best quality of molasses is very scarce. The finest conies 
 from Porto Kico, and the next best from New Orleans. 
 
 A good test of molasses is to put a bit of dissolved 
 soda in a spoonful of the molasses, and if the latter be 
 good it will foam up in a rich dark color, and the odor 
 will be pleasant. If, however, it should turn a greenish 
 shade, and the odor should be unpleasant, it will not 
 give satisfaction. 
 
 OLIVE OIL. 
 
 Unless one have a good cool cellar, it will be best to 
 buy oil in small quantities. Buying in large quantities 
 is much more economical if there be a good place to 
 keep the supply. Oil is cheaper when bought in large 
 bottles than in small ones ; yet in a small family it is 
 better to buy the small bottles, as oil loses its fine flavor 
 if the bottle be opened often. 
 
 Bae's Lucca oil is very reliable ; so is Barton & Gues- 
 tier's. There are many other good oils, and these brands 
 are mentioned only for the benefit of those who find it 
 difficult to judge of the quality. 
 
 One cannot be too careful in the selection and care 
 of salad oil. It should always be kept in a cool, dark 
 place. When the bottle is opened, wipe the inside of 
 the neck of the bottle before pouring out the oil. Some- 
 
ABOUT FOOD. 97 
 
 times a particle of oil will cling to the cork and become 
 rancid. Unless this be wiped out, the whole bottle may 
 be tainted by it. Always taste or smell of the oil before 
 using it. 
 
 MACARONI, SPAGHETTI, ETC. 
 
 Macaroni, spaghetti, and all the other Italian pastes 
 are made of a hard wheat that is rich in gluten. These 
 pastes, when of the best quality, have a hard appearance, 
 with a slight yellowish tinge. 
 
 The Italian paste made in this country and there is 
 a great deal of it has a softer, lighter look. Some- 
 times it is colored with saffron, in which case it will 
 have a deeper yellow tinge. 
 
 Spaghetti is one form of macaroni, the only difference 
 being that the stems are only about one fourth as large 
 round as macaroni. It is prepared the same as macaroni. 
 
 Italian paste comes in the form of tiny figures and let- 
 ters. This is used largely for soup. 
 
 TAPIOCA. 
 
 This is sold in three different forms. Flake tapioca is 
 that which comes in large, coarse flakes. Pearl tapioca 
 comes in small globules about half the size of a pea. It 
 cooks soft more readily than the flaked kind, but never 
 seems quite so rich. " Tapioca exotique " is a prepara- 
 tion of tapioca that has been ground as fine as granulated 
 sugar. It cooks clear in a short time, and is convenient 
 and nice for soups and jellies. It comes in small pack- 
 ages, the smallest weighing half a pound. The house- 
 keeper who once tries this preparation for soups and 
 desserts will always have it in her storeroom. 
 
 ARROWROOT. 
 
 This has so long been considered as belonging to the 
 food supplies for invalids and the sick that it is not used 
 to any great extent in ordinary cookery. It has, however, 
 
 7 
 
98 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 properties which will commend it to the cook for many 
 dishes. It will, for example, become perfectly transpar- 
 ent when cooked in a clear liquid, and for this reason it 
 is a valuable thickening agent in soups and sauces that 
 are required to be thick and yet clear. 
 
 Arrowroot absorbs odors readily, and therefore should 
 be put up and kept in tin boxes. Never buy it in any 
 other form, and never buy it at the druggist's, because it 
 will have absorbed the odors of some of the things near 
 it. All first-class grocers keep it. 
 
 GELATINE. 
 
 Gelatine is now used so freely in all households that 
 it pays to buy it by the quantity. It is one of the most 
 valuable ingredients that we have for making desserts 
 and jellies. There are a good many brands. The pack- 
 ages are all supposed to hold the same amount, two 
 ounces and a half with the wrappers, and two ounces if 
 weighed without them. Sometimes the gelatine weighs 
 a little more, and frequently less, than two ounces ; so it 
 is best to weigh it before it is used. This shortness in 
 weight probably is due to the carelessness of the packers 
 and not to a desire to defraud, as gelatine is cheap. 
 
 Pink gelatine comes in sheets. It can be bought at 
 the grocer's by the ounce. It costs a little more than 
 the ordinary gelatine. 
 
 Using half plain and half pink gelatine will give a 
 rich pink color to a jelly or cream. 
 
 Many people prefer using the Eussian isinglass, which 
 comes in sheets. This costs more than the prepared gel- 
 atine. It is nice for blanc-mange, and besides being used 
 for jellies and creams, it is frequently used for clearing 
 soups and coffee. 
 
 CONDIMENTS. 
 
 In this age of adulterations nothing suffers more than 
 ground condiments. The only safety is to buy them at 
 
ABOUT FOOD. 99 
 
 first-class stores. This does not always mean that you 
 will get a pure article, but your chances are much greater 
 than when trusting to the common grocer. After salt, 
 pepper is the most extensively used condiment; black, 
 white, and red pepper being in common use. 
 
 White pepper is better than black for cooking pur- 
 poses, because it is so much more delicate in flavor and 
 does not mar the looks of a white sauce, soup, or ragout. 
 It is not so liable to be adulterated as the black. It, 
 however, costs more. Always keep pepper in a glass jar 
 or tin box. 
 
 Cayenne is used in such a small quantity that a two- 
 ounce bottle will last an ordinary family for a year or 
 more. 
 
 Nepaul pepper, a delicate red kind, comes in small 
 bottles, and is a great addition to the seasoning of some 
 soups, sauces, and entrees. 
 
 Mustard, when pure, has a dull yellow appearance. 
 When ground mustard is mixed with cold water, the odor 
 will be so pungent as to affect the eyes, as peeling raw 
 onions will. Unless you are a chemist, this is the surest 
 test you can make to ascertain whether <the mustard is 
 adulterated. The bright yellow color does not always 
 mean that the mustard is inferior to the paler kind. 
 The pure mustard is frequently colored to give it the 
 bright yellow hue which so many people demand. Since 
 this article is used extensively in sickness, a generous 
 supply should always be kept in the storeroom, and care 
 should be taken to have only the purest. 
 
 Curry-powder is being employed more and more each 
 year. It is a useful and healthful condiment when 
 properly used. Some housekeepers try to make this 
 powder themselves, but it is much better to buy it. The 
 ingredients vary a little in the different makes. They 
 usually consist of the following-named articles ground 
 to a smooth powder : Coriander seed, black and Cayenne 
 pepper, cumin seed, cardamon seed, turmeric. Some- 
 
100 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 times cinnamon, ginger, caraway seed, and other spices 
 also are used. The most reliable makes are Cross & 
 BlackwelPs. Curry-powder should be kept in a dark 
 place, in a tightly corked bottle. 
 
 CINNAMON. 
 
 In buying ground cinnamon, like all ground spices, 
 one must depend upon taste for the real article, for 
 this spiee is as much adulterated as pepper and ginger. 
 But with the whole cinnamon the case is different, for 
 here the eye can recognize the true and detect the false. 
 
 The genuine cinnamon comes in small, thin, rather 
 tight rolls. It can be broken in long splinters. The 
 taste is delicate, sweet, and spicy. The price is much 
 higher than for cassia. 
 
 Cinnamon is sometimes mixed with cassia and sold 
 for a pure article, and it is quite common to sell pure 
 cassia for cinnamon. 
 
 Cassia is more than twice as thick as cinnamon ; the 
 rolls are large and loose ; the bark breaks off brittle and 
 will not break in splinters ; the flavor is strong. It 
 makes a good deal of difference in the flavor of a soup, 
 sauce, or jelly, whether cinnamon or coarse cassia be 
 used. 
 
 SUMMER SALADS AND SWEET HERBS. 
 
 How to Get Them from One's Own Garden. 
 
 When the time comes for garden-making, people will 
 do wisely to set apart a small portion of their land for 
 salads and herbs. Many persons who live in towns have 
 not only land for flower-beds, but enough also for a salad 
 and herb garden, and yet they feel that it is not worth 
 the while to try to raise anything for the table, because 
 they have not an acre or more to cultivate. A small 
 piece of land, properly used, will yield wonders in the 
 way of flavors and relishes. In France mere yards. 
 
ABOUT FOOD. 101 
 
 as we would call them, produce vegetables for seasoning 
 purposes, salads, herbs, grapes, apples, peaches, and pears. 
 There are no trees in such little gardens, the fruit being 
 trained on frames and the walls. The meats of France 
 are not remarkably fine ; yet the poorest parts of a poor 
 animal are prepared in a manner which renders them 
 not only digestible, but very savory. Slow processes of 
 cooking make the meat tender, and much of the flavor 
 is obtained by the use of the sweet herbs and delicate 
 vegetables. 
 
 But to return to the proposed garden. About one 
 hundred square feet of land will suffice, twenty-five 
 for vegetables, forty for herbs, and the rest for salads. 
 It is calculated to raise only enough vegetables for sea- 
 soning purposes. Here is a list of things which it will 
 be well to plant : Salads, lettuce, sorrel, burnet, borage, 
 chives; vegetables, carrots, turnips, celery (only for 
 the leaves), onions ; herbs, parsley, chervil, tarragon, 
 sage, sweet-marjoram, summer savory, thyme. 
 
 As the salads and vegetables should be planted twice 
 during the season, only half of the land set apart for 
 them should be sown at first. The first sowing should 
 take place in May or June, the time depending upon the 
 season and climate ; the second in August. Seeds and 
 bulbs may be got from any good seedsman, and their 
 transportation by mail is not costly. The care of a little 
 garden is likely to be a source of health and pleasure to 
 a woman, and a surprising variety of fine flavors may be 
 obtained for soups, ragouts, and other dishes. 
 
 It is strange that people generally are ignorant of the 
 use and value of some of the best and most delicate herbs 
 and salads. Sage, savory, thyme, and marjoram are 
 common enough. Tarragon and chervil are employed 
 in the making of sauces, soups, salads, and ragouts. 
 Chervil is somewhat like parsley, but more delicate in 
 texture and more agreeable in flavor. It is used only s 
 a flavor and in small quantities. Tarragon is a 
 
102 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 plant, like thyme, but its leaves are about four times as 
 large. It has a flavor unlike anything else, and gives 
 to lettuce salads that peculiar and pleasing savor which 
 one gets in France. In New York the French cooks use 
 large amounts of it ; outside that city, however, it is but 
 little known except by French people. If the roots be 
 protected, the plant will last for years. Chives are a 
 species of onion. Only the delicate green tops are used. 
 They should be cut frequently, but not very close to the 
 ground. Chives are delicious in all kinds of vegetable 
 salads, particularly in potato salad ; and they are also 
 nice in soups, stews, and fish or savory omelets. Cooking 
 does not mar the beautiful green as it does some kinds 
 of vegetables. For winter use gather chervil, tarragon, 
 marjoram, savory, sage, thyme, and parsley, before they 
 go to seed ; tie them in bunches, and hang in a shady 
 place to dry ; and keep them, when dry, in boxes or 
 paper bags. 
 
 In summer, when garden products are fresh, sorrel, 
 borage, and burnet should be prepared for the table just 
 the same as lettuce. Two, three, or more of the salads 
 may be combined, and seasoned with French dressing. 
 For example, to each head of lettuce put a few leaves of 
 sorrel, two sprigs of chervil, a few sprigs of tarragon, 
 and a teaspoonful of chopped chives mixed with one 
 table-spoonful of vinegar, three of oil, half a teaspoonful 
 of salt, and one-eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper. Or 
 borage may be substituted for the head of lettuce ; or 
 any one of the three, sorrel, borage, or lettuce, may be 
 used with a single herb and the dressing. 
 
 There are numerous salads besides these, but enough 
 have been mentioned to enable a housekeeper of ordinary 
 ability to give a pleasing variety to her bills of fare. 
 All the vegetables, herbs, and salads named can be found 
 in large markets during May and June, and they will be 
 delicate, having come chiefly from hot-beds. A city 
 housekeeper who knows what she wants, and has the 
 
ABOUT FOOD. 103 
 
 money to get supplies, will meet with no difficulty in 
 an attempt to make frequent changes of dishes; but 
 she who lives out of the city, and cannot readily obtain 
 the variety desired, should have a little garden of her 
 own. 
 
 The seeds, roots, or bulbs for this garden can be bought 
 of any reliable seedsman. Alfred Bridgeman, No. 37 
 East Nineteenth Street, New York City, keeps all these 
 seeds. 
 
 Tarragon is a perennial, and is rarely raised from the 
 seed. Get two or three roots. Pli\nt them in April or 
 May, in a rather dry, sheltered place. In the fall, cover 
 them with straw to protect the roots. 
 
 Chives are grown from small bulbs. Plant the bulbs 
 a few inches apart. Let this bed be long and narrow. 
 Begin cutting at one end of the bed, and continue to the 
 other. end. By the time it is reached the plants that 
 were cut first will be ready to yield another crop. Take 
 up some of the bulbs, in the fall, for winter use. Plant 
 them in small boxes at various times through the winter, 
 and you will have the green relish during the cold sea- 
 son. Cover the out-door bed with straw, and the chives 
 will come up early in the spring. A bed of chives prop- 
 erly worked and fertilized will last for several years. 
 
 Borage is grown from seed, and must be planted twice 
 during the season, in April or May, and again in July or 
 August. 
 
 Burnet is raised from seed. It has a flavor a little 
 like cucumbers. 
 
 Sorrel is grown from seed. It is perennial, and a bed 
 will last for years if properly cared for. When the 
 flower buds appear they should be cut off, that the leaves 
 of the sorrel shall grow large and tender. 
 
 In the fall take up a dozen roots of parsley and plant 
 them in a box, keeping it in a sunny window. It will 
 pay. 
 
104 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 To be a maker of good soups one must not only have 
 skill and patience, but also must use good materials. 
 There seems to be a rather general impression that soups 
 should be made from almost nothing. This is a great 
 error. To be sure, one often is served with a plate of 
 liquid called soup, which, so far as nutrition and flavor 
 are concerned, might as well have been made of nothing 
 but water, a little coloring, and some salt and pepper. 
 But such soups ought never to be put upon the table. 
 
 Soup should be palatable and nutritious. If these 
 qualities be lacking, there will be no excuse for serving 
 it. Knowledge and care must be applied in combining 
 the various ingredients in order to secure results at once 
 pleasing and healthful; ignorance and carelessness are 
 drawbacks under which a maker of soups cannot work 
 with a reasonable hope of success. 
 
 In preparing soup stock the first step is to obtain from 
 the meat all the nutritive and flavoring qualities, which 
 are the albumen, gelatine, osmazone, and salts, and are 
 contained principally in the lean parts of the meat, 
 though the bones also contain considerable gelatine. 
 Osmazone and albumen are dissolved and drawn from 
 meat in water heated to a temperature of 100 to 110 ; 
 gelatine must be subjected for several hours to a heat of 
 200, or more, before it will dissolve in the meat and 
 bones. 
 
 Simplest Way of Making Stock. 
 
 .Now, as the object is to dissolve and draw out these 
 substances, it is best to cut the meat into small pieces 
 before adding the water. The meat and water should 
 
sours. 105 
 
 stand on the back part of the range, where the heat is 
 not great, for at least an hour ; and at the end of that 
 time the kettle should be moved forward where the con- 
 tents will slowly get heated to the boiling-point. When 
 this temperature is reached a thick scum will rise on the 
 surface of the liquid, which should be carefully skimmed. 
 During the next half-hour skim every ten minutes ; 
 then cover the kettle closely, and set it back where its 
 contents will just bubble for from six to ten hours. 
 When this time has passed, strain the soup. All the 
 soluble matter will be dissolved, and the remaining bones 
 and shreds of fibres will have no value as food. All the 
 flavoring and nutritive elements will be contained in the 
 strained liquid. 
 
 This is the simplest way of making soup stock. By 
 following it, anybody can prepare the foundation for a 
 plain or rich soup. A light stock is made by allowing 
 a quart of water to a pound of meat. Perhaps it will be 
 well to state here that there should be not more than a 
 quarter of a pound of bone to three-quarters of a pound 
 of meat. A rich stock is obtained by using only a pint 
 of water to each pound of meat and bone. 
 
 Materials for Stock. 
 
 Stock may be made of one kind of meat, or many 
 kinds; of fresh meat, or the remains and trimmings of 
 roasted and broiled meats. The greater the number of 
 kinds used, the finer will be the flavor. When bones 
 are used, care must be taken to prevent the contents of 
 the soup-kettle from boiling hard ; for a very high tem- 
 perature would dissolve the lime in the bones, and give 
 the stock a milky appearance. It is difficult to make a 
 clear soup of stock that was clouded by hard boiling; 
 but if a white soup is to be made, the clouding of the 
 stock will not be a serious matter. 
 
 To insure getting clear soup, free of every particle of 
 fat, it is necessary to make the stock the day previous, 
 
106 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 that the fat may form in a cake on the surface of the 
 stock and easily be taken off. Then, too, if the stock be 
 liquid it may be poured off, leaving the sediment at the 
 bottom of the bowl ; or if it be in the form of jelly it 
 may be turned out, and the sediment can be scraped 
 from the bottom. In either case a comparatively clear 
 stock will be obtained. Seasoning may be added, the 
 stew-pan set on the stove, and its contents heated to the 
 boiling-point and kept at that temperature for half an 
 hour; then the soup will be ready for straining and 
 serving. For a change, there may be added, after the 
 straining, Italian paste in any form, cooked vegetables, 
 cooked rice or barley, or, indeed, almost any embellish- 
 ment that one may fancy. For inexperienced cooks this 
 is the safest kind of clear soup to make. 
 
 How Soups are Cleared. 
 
 By some accident or oversight the stock may not be 
 properly skimmed, or may be allowed to boil too hard, so 
 that it becomes cloudy j or possibly the cloudiness will 
 be brought on by the use of cooked meats. . In any of 
 these cases there will be necessity for clearing the soup, 
 an operation which but comparatively few persons un- 
 derstand. Soups are cleared by various articles, the most 
 common being the white of an egg. Professional cooks 
 use fine-chopped raw meat for clearing bouillon and con- 
 somme". The white of an egg is so cheap and convenient 
 to use that its value should be better known. When it 
 is used it makes no difference whether or not any sedi- 
 ment gets into the soup-pot. 
 
 To season and clear four quarts of soup, use the whites 
 of two eggs, four blades of celery, one large onion, one 
 large slice of carrot, two bay leaves, one leaf of sage, 
 two sprigs of parsley, two small sprigs each of thyme, 
 summer savory, and .sweet-marjoram, all the herbs 
 being tied together, six whole cloves, three dozen 
 pepper-corns, a two-inch piece of cinnamon, half a tea- 
 
SOUPS. 107 
 
 spoonful of sugar, and three teaspoonfuls of salt. Beat 
 the egg whites until they are light but not dry, and put 
 them into the stock with the other ingredients. Place 
 over the fire and heat slowly to the boiling-point. This 
 is the critical stage of the work. Just as soon as the 
 soup bubbles, move the kettle back where its contents 
 will keep at the boiling-point for half an hour without 
 really boiling. The kettle should be closely covered all 
 the time. At the end of the half-hour strain the soup 
 through a napkin into a clean kettle. It will be clear 
 and sparkling if the directions have been followed to 
 the letter. The stock must be cooked for at least half 
 an hour after the egg whites are added. It must, how- 
 ever, be heated only to the boiling-point and not allowed 
 to boil rapidly ; otherwise the egg will be broken up by 
 the rapid motion of the liquid, and will not harden in a 
 sheet, and the stock will not be rid of, the foreign 
 substances which the egg is expected to collect. . 
 
 Value of Remnants of Meat. 
 
 The belief, unfortunately, appears to be quite common 
 that if one would have stock on hand for made dishes 
 and the various kinds of soup made partly of stock 
 and partly of milk, there must always be kept on the 
 stove a stock-pot, into which all the bones and odds 
 and ends of meat are to be put from day to day, and 
 from wliich the stock may be taken at any time it is 
 needed. 
 
 All meat trimmings that are sweet, and all the bones 
 from roasts and broils, should be boiled slowly in water, 
 to extract any nutritive elements remaining in them. 
 The stock thus produced varies in strength and is rarely 
 clear; nevertheless, it is of much value in the prepara- 
 tion of soups, sauces, and made dishes. Care must be 
 taken that the bones and meat are perfectly sweet, or a 
 bad flavor will be developed in the process of cooking, 
 and the stock obtained will give this flavor to any dish 
 
108 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 in which it is used. It is advisable to boil the bones 
 and trimmings as soon as possible, and not to wait until 
 a large quantity has accumulated for the stock-pot. If 
 you have any bones or meat left aftej a sirloin or porter- 
 house steak has formed a part of a meal, do not wait a 
 day or two in order to boil the remains of a roast of beef 
 or poultry at the same time. Put the first remnants on 
 the stove in a small stew-pan, with a sufficient quantity 
 of cold water, and boil gently for five or six hours ; then 
 strain and cool before adding to the other stock. The 
 small amount of stock obtained perhaps not more than 
 three gills may seem to be a poor return for the trouble 
 taken. How much trouble ? Simply putting the materi- 
 als into the stew-pan, straining and cooling the liquid 
 after the boiling, and finally washing the strainer and 
 stew-pan. What do you get for the work ? Three gills 
 of stock, which will make a sauce for any kind of cold 
 meat ; will moisten a dish of hash, when water otherwise 
 would be used ; or will serve as a foundation in which 
 rice, barley, tapioca, or something else may be cooked for 
 a cream soup, making the dishes at least fifty per cent 
 better than if water be used. 
 
 Stock of this kind is, therefore, one of the most useful 
 things prepared in the kitchen. Never forget that the 
 materials must be sweet, and that warm stock must not 
 be added to that which is cold. When there is any cold 
 stock on hand, it is well to put it with the new stock 
 about an hour before the latter is taken from the fire. 
 This will give it a thorough scalding, and insure the 
 stock keeping good for three or four days in winter, and 
 a day or two in summer. 
 
 In making stock, allow a quart of water to every 
 pound of meat and bones, and let it boil down one-half. 
 In a well-managed kitchen there always will be at least 
 a small quantity of this stock. Then, too, the water in 
 which poultry or mutton was boiled may have the meat 
 and bones added to it, and four or five hours' simmering 
 
SOUPS. 109 
 
 will give a rich stock from which a variety of soups may 
 be made. 
 
 Maigre soups are those made without meat, and are 
 especially appropriate for fast days. Some of them are 
 good enough for any season, and make a pleasant change 
 from meat soups. 
 
 Beef the Best Meat for Stock. 
 
 Of the various kinds of meat used in soup-making, 
 beef is the most valuable and, generally speaking, the 
 cheapest. All the tough and coarse parts can be used. 
 Those parts containing a good deal of gelatine are es- 
 pecially desirable if the stock is to be kept for several 
 days, because the stock, upon cooling, becomes a rather 
 solid mass, through which the air will not pass freely, 
 and therefore fermentation is not likely to ensue. The 
 soup, too, will have the deceptive appearance of being 
 much richer than that made with clear, lean meat. But 
 many people enjoy a gelatinous soup when one rich, but 
 clear, would seem to them to be light. Every part of 
 the beef contains some gelatine, and if the meat be 
 cooked for several hours in water which is kept at 200, 
 or even a little higher temperature, the gelatine will be 
 dissolved, and if there be a pound of meat to each pint 
 of water the stock will jelly on cooling. But should the 
 clear meat and water be kept at about 170 during the 
 cooking, the stock will remain liquid when cold, and 
 very little trace of gelatine will be found in it. This 
 point always should be remembered when making bouil- 
 lon to be served cold, as the soup should be rich, and icy 
 cold, and yet perfectly clear like water. 
 
 The parts of beef used for soup are for bouillon or 
 consomme, the round, shoulder, flank, or brisket; for a 
 clear beef soup, the neck, cheek, leg, shin, and any 
 scraggy, rough part, besides the bones. The cheek, leg, 
 and shin all will give a soup rich in gelatine. 
 
 A shin or leg of beef will be found to be an economical 
 
110 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 piece for making stock. Butchers seldom break these 
 parts into small enough pieces. The bones of a leg 
 should be broken into eight or ten pieces, and these 
 should be washed in cold water. Be very careful that 
 the part which was separated from the hoof is perfectly 
 sweet and clean. Sometimes it is necessary to cut off 
 and throw away bits of tendon which appear to be u 
 trifle tainted. 
 
 When the cheek and neck are used, they should be 
 washed. The round should not be washed, but should 
 be wiped well with a wet towel. 
 
 A Word about Poultry. 
 
 Poultry is of great value in making stock. One of the 
 most economical ways of getting a light white stock is to 
 clean and truss a fowl, put it, breast down, in as small a 
 stew-pan as will hold it, cover it with cold water, and 
 heat it slowly to the boiling-point. Skim carefully, and 
 simmer until the fowl is tender ; then take up the fowl 
 and set it away to cool. Strain the water in which it 
 was boiled, and set that away to cool. When it becomes 
 cool, the fat may be skimmed from it. The fowl will be 
 ready for any kind of a dish for breakfast, luncheon, or 
 tea, or may be made into an entree for dinner. The stock 
 will serve as the foundation of cream soups or white 
 sauces, or may be used with made dishes. 
 
 Do not use a fowl for stock unless it be plump and 
 sweet and not more than two years old. The dark, lean 
 birds, which can be bought for a few cents a pound less 
 than a fat, rich chicken, will prove a dear purchase if one 
 be tempted to take them. Many persons are so foolish 
 as to think that because the meat is to be used for soup, 
 it is not necessary to have a good quality. Just as good 
 meat is wanted for this purpose as for anything else. 
 
 Sometimes the feet of poultry are used in soups. There 
 are two ways to clean them : one is to hold them in tongs 
 over clear coals until the skin cracks and curls, when it 
 
SOUPS. Ill 
 
 can be rubbed off easily ; and the other mode is to cover 
 them with boiling water for a few minutes and then 
 scrape off the skin and nails. Being gelatinous, they 
 give body to the soup. 
 
 Other Meats for Stock. 
 
 Mutton does not enter largely into soup-making. When 
 it is used it should be freed as much as possible of fat, 
 which would give a strong flavor to the stock. The 
 neck, shoulder, and feet are the parts most in demand for 
 soups. The feet, like those of the calf, are very gelati- 
 nous, and are sometimes used with other meats, like beef, 
 to increase the gelatinous element of the stock. 
 
 Almost all kinds of game may be used for stock. In 
 most cases it is too expensive, but the remnants left from 
 roasts and broils improve any stock greatly. Where 
 there is game in abundance, it may be treated in soups 
 the same as other meats. 
 
 Young meat, such as lamb and chicken, rarely is used 
 in stock. The bones or trimmings from roasts or broils 
 may be added to stock, but nothing else should be. 
 Osmazone, which gives flavor and odor to meat, is found 
 in larger quantities in old animals than in young ones ; 
 therefore the meat of matured animals is the best for 
 stock. ~ 
 
 Veal combined with beef gives a smoothness to soup 
 which is lacking when only beef is used. The best parts 
 of veal to use are the shin, head, and feet. They contain 
 the most gelatine, and are less useful for other modes of 
 cooking; but the stock made from them has very little 
 flavor, and is usually combined with stock made from 
 other meats or with milk or cream. 
 
 Thickening for Soups. 
 
 In thickening soups one aims first to get consistency, 
 next color, and finally flavor. Sometimes a soup is 
 wanted rather thick and yet perfectly clear. There are 
 
11 J MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 three substances which will give this effect, arrowroot, 
 ooru-starch, and tapioca ground fine. Arrowroot is by 
 far the best of the three if one be particular to avoid 
 leaving any trace of the thickening ingredient in the 
 soup. One table-spoonful mixed with a cupful of cold 
 stock until smooth, and then stirred into one quart of 
 boiling stock, the whole being simmered for half an 
 hour, will give a soup considerable body aud yet leave 
 it perfectly transparent. 
 
 Corn-starch is used in the same manner as arrowroot, 
 but there is always a little cloudiness in the soup. 
 
 Fine tapioca "Tapioca Exotique," a French prepara- 
 tion will give a clear, gelatinous soup, but the grains 
 will be faintly perceptible. One table-spoonful of this 
 preparation may be sprinkled into one quart of boiling 
 stock. The soup must be stirred for the first three or 
 four minutes ; then it can be pushed back where it will 
 simmer for half an hour. If there be no objection to the 
 distinct grains in the soup, ten minutes' cooking of the 
 tapioca will be sufficient This preparation is very nice 
 for any kind of soup, thick or clear. It may be added to 
 any kind of stock, and in ten minutes the stock will be 
 ready for use. Host first-class grocers keep this article, 
 which may be had in half-pound packages. 
 
 For white or cream soups the three substances already 
 named are used, though rice, bread, barley, and flour are 
 more commonly employed. 
 
 When it is desired to make a cream soup yellow and 
 rich, the yolks of eggs are used. They are beaten thor- 
 oughly, and after a little cold liquid like cream or 
 milk has been added, they are stirred into the soup 
 just before it is taken from the fire. 
 
 When a thick soup is desired brown, the flour is either 
 stirred over the fire in a dry pan until it becomes dark 
 brown, or it is put into a pan with its own volume of hot 
 batter and stirred until it turns dark brown. A coloring 
 substance like soup paste, caramel, beef extract, or some 
 
SOUPS. 118 
 
 of the many preparations for coloring soups and sauces, 
 is nearly always necessary where the stock is not a rich 
 brown one. 
 
 Various other substances are used occasionally for 
 thickening soups, but only those mentioned are in gen- 
 eral use. 
 
 Miscellaneous Notes. 
 
 He particular to cool stock rapidly. If it be allowed 
 to cool partially on the range before it is strained, it will 
 riot keep well. The more quickly it is cooled after the 
 straining, the better it is. 
 
 Cooking meat at a high and in a dry temperature de- 
 velops a richer and more savory flavor; so, when it is 
 possible, it is well to brown the meat before adding the 
 water to it. 
 
 The less fat there is in the stock-pot the more delicate 
 will be the flavor of the soup. Cut off as much fat as 
 possible before putting the meat into the pot. 
 
 A delicate flavor of ham improves stock, but it should 
 be so slight as hardly to be recognized. An ounce of 
 ham to a gallon of water is a generous allowance. 
 
 Herbs, vegetables, and spices always should be used in 
 making stock, but only in such quantities that all the 
 flavors will be nicely blended. Here is where one 
 has a chance to display skill. Inexperienced house- 
 keepers should, however, carefully follow rules, rather 
 than trust to their own judgment as to the proper quan- 
 tities to use. 
 
 Stock made with Shin of Beef. 
 
 Have a shin of beef broken into small pieces. Wash 
 it well and trim off any tainted pieces that may be found 
 at the lower end. Put it in a large soup-kettle with a 
 quart of cold water for every pound and a half of meat 
 and bone. Heat slowly to the boiling-point, and then skim 
 thoroughly. The liquid should be skimmed several times 
 
114 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 in half an hour. Now place the pot where its contents 
 will boil gently for ten hours. When it has been cook- 
 ing for eight hours, put in a stew-pan four table-spoonfuls 
 of butter, two onions, cut fine, three table-spoonfuls of 
 minced carrot, three of minced turnip, six of celery ; then 
 cook slowly for half an hour. At the end of that time 
 cook the vegetables a little more rapidly for about a 
 minute, stirring all the time. When they have become 
 browned slightly, add them, with the butter, to the 
 stock. Add also six cloves, a stick of cinnamon, three 
 dozen pepper-corns, two table-spoonfuls of salt, and a 
 bouquet of sweet herbs. Cook for an hour longer, and 
 then strain. Cool quickly, and put in a cold place for 
 the night. In the morning skim off all the fat, turn out 
 the jelly, and scrape off the sediment. This jelly, when 
 heated, will give a clear, well-flavored stock. 
 
 A little more salt or pepper may be required. The 
 seasonings given are for a shin or leg of beef weighing 
 ten or twelve pounds. This stock may be used anywhere 
 that bouillon or consomm^ would be. 
 
 Bouillon. 
 
 This is always made of beef, and may be very rich or 
 rather poor and light. Here is a rule for nutritious 
 bouillon : For a gallon of soup use ten pounds of clear 
 beef cut from the under part of the round or from the 
 shoulder, four quarts and a pint of water, one large on- 
 ion, one large slice of carrot, and a slice of turnip, each 
 slice weighing about three ounces, three blades of 
 celery, three dozen pepper-corns, half a dozen cloves, a 
 piece of cinnamon about three inches long, three tea- 
 spoonfuls of salt, the whites of three eggs, two sprigs 
 each of parsley, thyme, and summer savory, three bay 
 leaves, and a leaf of sage. 
 
 First rid the meat of all its fat, then cut off a pound 
 of lean meat and put it away in a cool place ; and after 
 cutting the remainder of the beef into small pieces, put 
 
SOUPS. 115 
 
 it into a soup-pot with the cold water. Heat slowly, 
 watching carefully all the while, and as soon as the 
 water begins to boil skim it carefully. When the liquid 
 has been thoroughly skimmed, move the pot back where 
 its contents will keep at the boiling-point for six hours. 
 A slight bubbling at the sides of the kettle is a sufficient 
 cooking. At the end of the six hours add the spice, salt, 
 vegetables, and the herbs, which should be tied in a 
 bit of thin muslin, and after making these additions, 
 cook for one hour longer. When this time has passed, 
 draw the pot forward, and let the soup boil rapidly for 
 one minute; then strain immediately, and set away to 
 cool. 
 
 The next morning remove all the fat from the stock. 
 Chop very fine the pound of meat that was reserved, 
 and put it into the soup-kettle with the stock. Beat the 
 whites of the three eggs until light, and stir them into the 
 pot containing the other ingredients. Place on the stove, 
 and heat slowly to the boiling-point, stirring occasion- 
 ally. When the soup begins to bubble, remove it imme- 
 diately to the back part of the range. Cover, and keep 
 at the boiling-point for one hour ; then taste the soup to 
 find whether it is properly seasoned. It may require a 
 very little salt aud pepper. Strain through a napkin, 
 and it will be ready to serve. 
 
 A soup made in this way will never jelly, and will 
 have a peculiar flavor not found in a soup made by cook- 
 ing at a higher temperature. 
 
 Sometimes bouillon is given a little more body by the 
 addition of gelatine. To do this, soak a package of gel- 
 atine in half a pint of cold water for two hours or more. 
 When the stock, fine-chopped beef, and the three whites 
 of eggs are put on the stove, add the soaked gelatine. 
 Stir the stock well from the bottom two or three times 
 while it is heating, otherwise the gelatine may stick to 
 the kettle, get burned, and spoil the soup. 
 
 A soup only half as rich may be made by following 
 
116 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 the above rule, but using only half the quantity of meat 
 stated. Bouillon may have added to it vegetables, rice, 
 barley, or any form of macaroni; but it is generally 
 served plain, either in soup-plates, if at dinner, or in 
 cups, at lunches and germans. 
 
 Consomm6. 
 
 So much work is required to prepare this soup that 
 inexperienced housekeepers hesitate to try to make it. 
 Here is a comparatively simple and sure receipt: Use 
 for a gallon of soup four pounds of beef, cut from the 
 under part of the round, four pounds of a shin of veal, 
 a fowl weighing about five pounds, six quarts of cold 
 water, a large onion, four table-spoonfuls each of chopped 
 carrot, turnip, and celery, two sprigs each of parsley, 
 thyme, and summer savory, three bay leaves, and one 
 large leaf of sage, all these herbs being tied in a piece 
 of muslin, forty pepper-corns, half a dozen cloves, a 
 three-inch piece of cinnamon, a tiny bit of mace, ten all- 
 spice, two level table-spoonfuls of salt, four table-spoon- 
 fuls of butter, and the whites of two eggs. 
 
 Cut the beef and veal into small pieces and put them 
 in the soup-pot. Cook over a rather hot fire for half an 
 hour, stirring often; then add the six quarts of cold 
 water, and let the contents of the soup-pot heat slowly 
 to the boiling-point. Skim carefully, and set back where 
 the soup will bubble all the while, and in every part of 
 the kettle. Cook for three hours, and then add the fowl, 
 first cleaning it thoroughly. 
 
 When the soup has been cooked for five hours, put the 
 butter, the onions cut fine, and the chopped vegetables 
 into a frying-pan and cook gently for half an hour ; then 
 turn these ingredients into the kettle, and add also the 
 spice, herbs, and salt. Cook for an hour and a half 
 longer. 
 
 When the fowl has been cooked for two hours and a 
 half, see if it is not tender enough to take up, as it need 
 
SOUPS. 117 
 
 be cooked in the soup only long enough to make it tender. 
 In that time it will impart a good flavor to the stock. 
 
 After the soup has simmered in all for six hours and 
 a half, pour it through a fine sieve and set it away to 
 cool. In the morning there will be a jelly, from which 
 every particle of fat should be removed. Put the jellied 
 stock into the soup-pot, with the well-beaten whites of 
 the eggs, and heat slowly to the boiling-point. The in- 
 stant the stock begins to bubble, set it back where it will 
 keep just at the boiling-point for half an hour. Strain 
 it at the end of that time, and it will be found clear and 
 of fine flavor. The soup may be used as it is, or may be 
 garnished, like bouillon. 
 
 Simple Consomm6. 
 
 It often happens that there is a little chicken stock 
 and a little beef stock in the pantry, not enough of 
 each, perhaps, for a tureen of soup, but which combined 
 will give a delicate consomme of good flavor. 
 
 Put into the soup-pot one quart of each kind of stock, 
 one pound of veal, free of fat and chopped very fine, six 
 pepper-corns, three cloves, an inch piece of stick cinna- 
 mon, a bit of mace, one teaspoonful of salt, and one-third 
 of a teaspoonful of white pepper. 
 
 Now put two table-spoonfuls of butter into a small fry- 
 ing-pan, and add two table-spoonfuls of chopped celery, 
 two of onion, one of carrot, one of turnip, one bay 
 leaf, one sprig of parsley, and a tiny sprig of thyme. 
 Cook slowly for half an hour; then draw forward and 
 stir until the vegetables begin to turn brown. Press the 
 vegetables against the side of the pan, to get the butter 
 out. When they are as free of butter as possible, put 
 them into the soup-pot with the other ingredients. Place 
 the pot on the fire, and when the soup begins to boil, set 
 it back where it will hardly bubble for an hour. Taste 
 at the end of that time, to be sure that no more salt is 
 needed. Pour the soup into a common strainer and then 
 
118 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 through a napkin that has been dipped in ice water and 
 wrung afterward. 
 
 The veal that is left may be used for croquettes. 
 
 Chicken Consomm6. 
 
 The first step is to cut the breasts from two large 
 fowls and put them away in a cool place, and then cut 
 the other parts of the fowls into joints. Wash these, and 
 put them into a soup-pot with four quarts of cold water ; 
 and when the broth has been heated to the degree at 
 which it boils, skim it carefully, and set back where it 
 will boil gently for six hours. During the last hour and 
 a half one of the breasts should be cooked with the soup, 
 and it should then be taken out and put away to cool. 
 The soup, after being strained through a colander, should 
 also be put away. When it has become cold, and all the 
 fat has been skimmed off, turn it back into the soup-pot, 
 and add a small piece of mace and of cinnamon, a large 
 onion or two small ones, two blades of celery, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of salt, three dozen pepper-corns, the whites of 
 two eggs, well beaten, and the uncooked breast of one of 
 the fowls, chopped very fine. Let the soup heat slowly 
 to the boiling-point, and set back where it will retain 
 that degree of heat for one hour. It should then be per- 
 fectly clear, the whites of the eggs and other sediment 
 having settled on the bottom of the pot. Taste the soup 
 to find whether it requires more seasoning. Dip an old 
 napkin into hot water and place it in a strainer, and after 
 the consomme has been poured through this it will be 
 ready for serving. It may be improved, however, by 
 cutting the cooked breast of one of the fowls into thin 
 bits, and heating the meat in the consomme after the 
 straining. 
 
 Consomm6 with Rice. 
 
 Use two table-spoonfuls of uncooked rice to two quarts 
 of clear soup. After ridding the rice of all dark par- 
 ticles, wash it in three waters, rubbing it thoroughly 
 
SOUPS. 119 
 
 between the hands while it is in the first water. When it 
 has been properly washed, put it into an uncovered stew- 
 pan with one quart of boiling water, and place the pan 
 where its contents will boil for twenty minutes. At the 
 end of the first fifteen minutes add one teaspoonful of 
 salt ; and at the end of the twenty minutes turn the rice 
 into a strainer and pour over it a quart of cold water, 
 which will rinse off any starch that may be clinging to the 
 grains. Heat the soup, and after adding the rice to it, 
 cook for ten minutes without letting it boil. 
 
 Consomme with Barley. 
 
 With two quarts of the clear soup use two table-spoon- 
 fuls of pearl barley. Wash it in the same way rice is 
 washed, and put it on the stove with three pints of cold 
 water. Cook gently for five hours, adding a heaping tea- 
 spoonful of salt when four hours have passed. Strain the 
 barley, rinse with cold water, and treat the same as rice. 
 
 Consomm6 with Macaroni. 
 
 Break half a dozen sticks of macaroni into pieces about 
 two inches long, and boil them for twenty minutes in one 
 quart of water. Add a teaspoonful of salt when the first 
 fifteen minutes have passed, and treat in every particu- 
 lar the same as rice. Any kind of Italian paste may be 
 used in the same way. 
 
 Consomm6 with Profiteroles. 
 
 Make profiteroles by the rule given under " Garnishes." 
 Pour the soup into the tureen, and then add the profite- 
 roles. Half a pint of the little balls will be enough for 
 three pints of soup. 
 
 Consomm6 with Force-meat Balls. 
 
 Prepare chicken force-meat as directed in " Garnishes." 
 Form into balls about the size of a cherry. Drop them 
 into a pint of clear boiling stock that is set back where 
 
120 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 it will not boil up. Cook for five minutes, then put 
 them into the tureen and pour in three pints of hot con- 
 somme. Serve at once. 
 
 One cupful of the force-meat will make a generous 
 allowance of balls. Save for sauces the stock in which 
 they were boiled. 
 
 Consomm6 with Quenelles. 
 
 Make some chicken or veal force-meat as directed. 
 Butter the bottom of a small saucepan. Dip two tea- 
 spoons in hot water, and after filling one with the force- 
 meat, turn the contents into the other spoon. This will 
 give the quenelles their shape. Drop them in the but- 
 tered pan. When all are done, cover with hot stock, and 
 place where they will keep hot without boiling. Pro- 
 ceed as for consomme with force-meat balls. 
 
 Consomm with Green Peas. 
 
 For six persons use one pint of green peas. Boil them 
 in salt and water ; then drain them, and put them in a 
 stew-pan with three pints of consomme. Cover, and 
 cook gently for five minutes. 
 
 In winter use one cupful of the best French peas. Turn 
 them into a strainer, and pour cold water over them. 
 Drain well, and proceed the same as with fresh peas. 
 
 Consomm6 with Asparagus Tops. 
 
 Cut the delicate green tops from a bunch of asparagus. 
 Wash them, and put them in a stew-pan with a pint of 
 boiling water and a teaspoonful of salt. Cook for fifteen 
 minutes ; then drain them, and put them in a stew-pan 
 with three pints of consomme. Cook gently for five 
 minutes, and serve immediately afterward. 
 
 Consomm6 with Poached Eggs. 
 
 For six persons provide three pints of consomme and 
 six eggs. Have the consomme hot. Butter the bottom 
 
SOUPS. 121 
 
 of a large frying-pan, and put six small muffin-rings in it. 
 Put in enough boiling water to cover the rings. Add 
 one table-spoonful of vinegar and one of salt. Draw the 
 pan to the side of the range where the water will just 
 bubble at one side of the pan. Break the eggs into the 
 rings, being careful not to break the yolks, and cook un- 
 til the whites are rather firm. It will take about three 
 minutes. 
 
 Pour the water from the pan, and then take out the 
 rings. With a cake-turner, take out the eggs, being 
 careful to drain oft' all the water. Put them in the soup 
 tureen, being careful to leave a little space between each 
 one, that they may be lifted readily with the ladle. 
 Now add the consomme, and serve. 
 
 Julienne Soup. 
 
 Authorities differ as to the origin of the name of this 
 soup. The commonly accepted idea is that it was sug- 
 gested by the French word for July, Juillet, because the 
 vegetables used in making the dish are in their prime in 
 early summer. An attempt also has been made to prove 
 that the soup was invented by a Boston restaurateur 
 named Julian, who carried on his business near the Old 
 South Church a great many years ago, and gave his name 
 to the soup after it became popular. 
 
 Julienne soup is now understood to be prepared of a 
 rich, clear stock and several kinds of vegetables, car- 
 rots, turnips, celery, lettuce or cabbage, and sorrel. Peas, 
 beans, cauliflower, and asparagus often are used. Some- 
 times the onion also is used. In such cases it seems as 
 if it would always be -well to cook the onion in the stock, 
 and remove it when the meat and bones are removed, 
 because many people who will not eat this vegetable 
 like its flavor in soup or sauce. 
 
 The vegetables may be cooked in either of two ways, 
 fried in butter, or boiled in water. By the first method 
 the soup is made more savory, and by the second mode, 
 
122 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 handsomer. Any kind of clear stock may be employed 
 for the soup ; but the richer it is, the better. 
 
 For two quarts of stock use, in equal quantities, one 
 pint of turnips, carrots, and celery, all cut into narrow 
 strips about an inch long, one pint of fine-shred lettuce, 
 and one gill of sorrel, cut into thin strips. 
 
 After putting four table-spoonfuls of butter into a 
 small frying-pan, set the pan on the stove. When the 
 butter becomes melted, put in the carrots, turnips, and 
 celery, besides a teaspoonful of sugar. Cook slowly for 
 half an hour, being careful that the vegetables do not 
 get browned. 
 
 As soon as the vegetables are put on to fry, put the 
 stock into a clean stew-pan, and set it on the back part of 
 the stove where it will heat slowly. Now wash the sor- 
 rel, and cover it with cold water. Wash the lettuce also ; 
 and after putting it into a stew-pan with a cupful of 
 boiling water, boil it for ten minutes, and then drain it 
 carefully. 
 
 When the vegetables have been cooking for half an 
 hour, draw them to one side of the pan, and press out as 
 much of the butter as possible. Put the drained lettuce, 
 the sorrel, and fried vegetables into the two quarts of 
 stock, which should now be at the boiling-point. Add 
 one-eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper and one level tea- 
 spoonful of salt. . Cover the stew-pan, and cook the soup 
 gently for a quarter of an hour. It will then be ready 
 to serve. 
 
 If one lack garden sorrel, wild sorrel may be used. 
 Of course, when this soup is made in the winter, it has 
 to be made without sorrel, unless one be near enough to 
 a large city market to obtain a supply. 
 
 Here is a different receipt for Julienne soup : Use two 
 quarts of clear stock, one pint of carrots, turnips, and 
 celery combined, half a pint of peas, half a pint of cauli- 
 flower, and one teaspoonful of salt. 
 
SOUPS. 123 
 
 Put the carrot and one quart of boiling water into a 
 saucepan, and cook for half an hour ; then add the turnip 
 and celery, and cook for ten minutes longer. When this 
 time has passed, add the cauliflower, and cook for twenty 
 minutes. If the water should boil away, add more ; for 
 the vegetables must be covered all the time. If canne 1 
 peas be used, they will only need to be rinsed and added 
 to the soup with the other vegetables ; but if fresh peas 
 be used, they must be boiled for twenty or thirty minutes 
 in clear water. 
 
 When all the vegetables are done, drain off all the 
 water, and add the vegetables and the teaspoonful of salt 
 to -the two quarts of hot stock. Cook for a quarter of an 
 hour, and serve. 
 
 This soup will be improved if a gill of sorrel be added 
 with the cooked vegetables. It should be understood 
 that the stock must be properly seasoned before the veg- 
 etables are put into it, the spoonful of salt being used 
 simply to season the vegetables. Julienne soup is best, 
 of course, if madft when vegetables have just been taken 
 from the garden, and are very delicate ; still, it may be 
 made at any time with satisfactory results, if a little 
 care be given to its preparation. 
 
 Still another rule : Chop fine three pounds of the round 
 of beef. Add to it three quarts of cold water, and let 
 it stand for two hours ; then place on the fire, and heat 
 the water slowly to the boiling-point. Simmer the meat 
 gently for four hours; then add an onion, two cloves, a 
 bay leaf, a sprig of parsley, a teaspoonful of salt, and 
 one-eighth of a teaspoonful of white pepper, and cook an 
 hour longer. Let the soup boil rather briskly for the 
 last ten minutes; then strain, and cool quickly. The 
 next morning skim off all the fat, and pour the soup 
 back into the kettle, being careful to keep out the sedi- 
 ment. Cut into small dice enough turnips, carrots, cauli- 
 flower, and celery to make a half-pint of each vegetable. 
 
124 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Cover all with boiling water, and boil gently for an hour. 
 Heat the soup to the boiling-point, and after adding the 
 vegetables (without the water in which they were cooked), 
 simmer for a quarter of an hour. Taste before serving, 
 to be sure there is enough seasoning. 
 
 Brown Soup. 
 
 This is rich and fine, suitable for a most elaborate din- 
 ner. It cannot be made in a hurry, yet its manufacture 
 is not so great a task as may at first appear, because the 
 soup requires no special attention the major part of the 
 time it is cooking. 
 
 Use a gallon of water, three pounds of the round of 
 beef, two pounds of a shin of veal, one table-spoonful of 
 butter, one table-spoonful each of chopped onion, carrot, 
 and turnip, a sprig of parsley, a bay leaf, two cloves, 
 eighteen pepper-corns, two table-spoonfuls of arrowroot, 
 and a teaspoonful and a half of salt. 
 
 Cut the meat into bits, and putting it into a soup-kettle 
 with the cold water, heat it slowly to the boiling-point ; 
 then skim the liquor carefully, and set the kettle back 
 where its contents will boil gently for ten hours. At the 
 end of eight hours put the butter and vegetables into a 
 small frying-pan, and cook slowly for fifteen minutes; 
 then add to the soup, together with the spice and herbs. 
 
 When the soup has cooked for the required time, strain 
 it, and put it in a cool place. The next morning skim 
 off all the fat, and pour the soup into the kettle, being 
 careful that no sediment follows the liquid. Set the 
 kettle on the stove, and then mix two table-spoonfuls 
 of arrowroot with half a cupful of cold water. As 
 soon as the soup begins to boil, stir the arrowroot 
 into it, and set it back where it will only simmer for 
 the next twenty minutes. Taste, to be sure that there 
 is enough seasoning; for more salt and pepper may be 
 required to produce the best flavor. To the ininds of 
 some people it will be considered as an improvement 
 
SOUPS. 125 
 
 to put two table-spoonfuls of brandy into the soup at the 
 last moment. 
 
 A quick way of making a brown soup is to thicken 
 three quarts of clear consomme or bouillon with arrow- 
 root, and flavor it with brandy. 
 
 Beef Soup, with Barley. 
 
 Use two pounds of beef, from the round. After re- 
 moving all the fat, cut the meat into small pieces and 
 then chop it very fine. Put it into a soup-pot with two 
 quarts of cold water ; and after slowly heating the liquid 
 to the boiling-point, and skimming carefully, cover it 
 closely, and set it back where it will simply bubble for 
 three hours. At the end of that time add an onion, a 
 small slice of carrot, a stalk of celery, two cloves and 
 a bay leaf; then simmer for another hour. 
 
 At the same time the chopped meat is put on to boil, 
 put one-third of a cupful of well- washed barley into a 
 stew-pan with a pint of cold water. Simmer for four 
 hours. 
 
 Strain the soup, and add to it the cooked barley. 
 Return the pot to the fire, and let the soup boil up. Put 
 a table-spoonful of butter into a small stew-pan, and when 
 it becomes hot add a table-spoonful of flour. Stir until 
 smooth and brown; then add to the soup. Season to 
 your taste with salt and pepper. 
 
 * Barley Soup. 
 
 Put into the soup-pot the bones and trimmings left 
 from a dish of beefsteak, roast chicken, or other meat. 
 Add six quarts of cold water, and when it has become 
 heated to the boiling-point, skim it carefully, and set 
 back where it will boil gently for four hours. Wash 
 two-thirds of a cupful of barley, and let it simmer for 
 three hour's in two-thirds of a quart of water, cold 
 when put on. Cut an onion, half a small carrot, and 
 half a small turnip into small cubes, and put them into a 
 
126 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 frying-pan containing three table-spoonfuls of butter. 
 Cook slowly for twenty minutes. Strain the liquor from 
 the bones in the soup-pot, and add the cooked barley to 
 it. Now add two table-spoonfuls of flour to the butter 
 and vegetables in the frying-pan, and stir until the mix- 
 ture begins to bubble; then add the contents of the 
 frying-pan to the soup. Season with salt and pepper, 
 and cook half an hour longer. Serve with toasted 
 bread. 
 
 * Shin-of-Beef Soup. 
 
 The ingredients are six pounds of the shin of beef, 
 three onions, one turnip, one carrot, half a cupful of rice, 
 six potatoes, a few leaves of celery, one quart of finely 
 shred cabbage, salt, pepper, seven quarts of cold water. 
 
 Having had the shin-bone cracked, wash it, place it in 
 the soup-kettle, and set it over a slow fire for about 
 twenty minutes. Stir often. Now add the onions, 
 sliced thin, and cook ten minutes longer, stirring fre- 
 quently. Add the cold water, and when it conies to the 
 boiling-point, skim. Simmer for two hours, and then 
 add the carrot, turnip, and cabbage, all cut fine. Sim- 
 mer two hours longer, and add the rice, potatoes, salt, 
 and pepper. Cook one hour longer before serving. 
 
 Barley may be used instead of rice ; but in that case 
 it should be added with the cold water, as it requires a 
 great deal of cooking. 
 
 * Sago Soup. 
 
 After freeing of fat all the bones that were left from a 
 dish of roast beef, put them, with the tough, hard bits of 
 meat, into the soup-kettle, together with a gallon of 
 water, and boil gently for two hours ; then add half a 
 cupful of sago, three cloves, a piece of stick cinnamon 
 about three inches long, half a teaspoonful- of pepper, 
 one table-spoonful of salt, a large onion, two large slices 
 of carrot, two of turnip, two of parsnip, two stalks of 
 
SOUPS. 127 
 
 celery or a few leaves, a small leaf of sage, a sprig of 
 parsley, one of thyme, and one of summer savory. 
 Simmer gently for four hours. Taste to see if seasoned 
 enough ; and if it be not, add salt and pepper. Mix two 
 table-spoonfuls of corn-starch with a cupful of cold 
 water, and stir into the soup. Cook half an hour longer ; 
 then strain through a colander, and serve with strips of 
 toasted bread. 
 
 Mock Turtle Soup. 
 
 The cooking must be begun the day before the soup 
 will be wanted. A calf's head is one of the articles 
 needed, but a part of it may be used for dishes other 
 than the soup. The full list of materials required for 
 six quarts of soup is as follows : A calf's head, a shin of 
 veal weighing six pounds, an onion, two table-spoonfuls 
 of chopped carrot, two of turnip, three stalks of celery 
 if it may be had, a piece of stick cinnamon about three 
 inches long, half a blade of mace, ten cloves, twenty 
 pepper-corns, a bay leaf, a sprig of parsley, four table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, six table-spoonfuls of arrowroot or 
 corn-starch, one table-spoonful each of walnut, mushroom, 
 and tomato ketchup (as ketchups vary in strength, more 
 may be needed to give the soup the best possible flavor), 
 two lemons, a quantity of cold water, a gill or more of 
 Port, some salt and pepper, and, if one choose, some egg 
 or force-meat balls. It may seem as if six quarts of 
 soup were too large a quantity to make at one time ; 
 therefore it may be well to say, in explanation, that a 
 calf's head is sufficient for that quantity, and half of a 
 head cannot be bought. Bear in mind that if all the 
 soup be not wanted at one meal, the remainder will be 
 good if warmed again. 
 
 Have the butcher split and scrape the calf's head, 
 and saw the bone of the shin of veal into several parts. 
 Wash all carefully. Put the head into a large pan, and 
 after covering it with cold water, soak it for two hours. 
 
128 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 At the end of that time take out the brains, place the 
 head in a large soup-pot, and after putting in the shin 
 also, pour in two gallons of cold water. Heat slowly to 
 the boiling-point ; then skiin carefully, and set the pot 
 back where the liquor will simply bubble for three hours. 
 When that time has passed, take up the veal with a 
 skimmer, and then remove the head, being careful not to 
 break it. Strain the stock that is in the soup-pot, and 
 put all but two quarts away to cool. These two quarts 
 should be returned to the kettle with the shin of veal ; 
 the spice mentioned above should be added, and the 
 kettle covered and set where its contents will only 
 simmer. 
 
 Now put the vegetables, cut fine, and the butter into 
 a frying-pan, and fry gently for twenty minutes. At the 
 last moment draw the pan forward, so that the vegetables 
 shall become slightly browned by more rapid cooking. 
 Be careful that they do not get burned. Add these 
 vegetables to the veal and stock, and cook all for four 
 hours ; then strain and put away to cool. 
 
 In the morning, after skimming off all the fat, turn 
 the two lots of strained stock into the soup-pot, and set 
 upon the stove. Add the ketchup, and also salt and 
 pepper in quantities to suit your taste; and when the 
 soup boils up, add the juice of a lemon, the wine, and 
 the face of the calf, cut into small strips. Cover the 
 soup-pot closely, and set it back where its contents will 
 hardly bubble during the next fifteen minutes. It will 
 then be ready to serve ; but if it be intended for a late 
 dinner it may be cooled, put away, and heated again 
 when wanted. 
 
 Thin slices of lemon, cut in quarters, and egg balls and 
 force-meat balls should be put into the tureen before the 
 soup is turned into it, if one would have mock turtle 
 soup in perfection. As it takes much time to make 
 force-meat balls, they may be omitted ; but egg balls 
 should be used, as they are easily prepared. 
 
SOUPS. 129 
 
 Spaghetti Soup. 
 
 Put into the soup-pot two quarts of chicken stock, a 
 whole onion, two cloves, twelve pepper-corns, a bit of 
 cinnamon, three stalks of celery, a slice of carrot, a slice 
 of turnip, and a bay leaf. Cover closely, and cook 
 slowly for an hour. Season to your taste with salt and 
 pepper, and strain through a napkin. Keturn to the 
 soup-pot, and add a cupful of spaghetti, broken into 
 short pieces. Cover the kettle, and set it where the 
 soup will hardly bubble for an hour. This mode of 
 cooking will insure a fine mellow flavor of the spaghetti, 
 without breaking it, or clouding the soup. 
 
 * Turkey Soup. 
 
 After cutting from the remains of a turkey as much 
 fat as possible, break the bones, and put them into the 
 soup-pot, together with any dressing and bits of tough 
 meat left from a turkey dinner. Pour upon them three 
 quarts of cold water, and simmer for four hours. After 
 the soup has been cooking for one hour, add one-third of 
 a cupful of rice ; and after three hours, take out the bones 
 and skim off all the fat. Put three table-spoonfuls of 
 butter into a small frying-pan; and when melted, put 
 into it an onion, a slice of carrot, and three stalks of 
 celery, all cut fine. Cook slowly for twenty minutes ; 
 then skim the vegetables from the butter and put them 
 into the soup. Into the butter remaining in the pan put 
 two table-spoonfuls of flour, and stir until smooth and 
 frothy ; then add this mixture to the soup. Season with 
 salt and pepper, and cook ten minutes longer. 
 
 
 Chicken Soup. 
 
 Use a fowl weighing four or five pounds, one-fourth of 
 a cupful of rice, three quarts of water, two table- 
 spoonfuls each of minced onion, carrot, turnip, and 
 celery, one teaspoonful of minced parsley, three table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, two of flour, one of salt, one-third of 
 
 9 
 
130 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 a teaspoonful of white pepper, and a slight grating of 
 nutmeg. 
 
 Singe, draw, and wash the fowl. Put it breast down 
 in a deep kettle. Pour in three quarts of cold water, 
 and then set the kettle on the fire. When the water 
 begins to boil, skim it carefully ; then set the kettle 
 back where the contents will only simmer during the 
 next three hours. At the end of the first hour add the 
 rice, well washed. At the end of the three hours take 
 up the fowl, skim the fat from the broth, and then 
 gently pour off one pint from the upper part of the 
 liquid, being careful to keep out all the rice. Put this 
 away for use in making other dishes. 
 
 Now put the butter and minced vegetables into a small 
 frying-pan, and cook slowly for ten minutes. Skim the 
 vegetables from the butter and put them in the soup. 
 In the butter remaining in the pan put the dry flour, 
 and stir until smooth and frothy ; then add to the soup. 
 Add also the salt and pepper. Cook for half an hour 
 longer, and then add the parsley, a grating of nutmeg, 
 and one pint of the chicken, cut into cubes. Boil for five 
 minutes before serving. 
 
 If it be inconvenient to use celery, take one-fourth of 
 a teaspoonful of celery seed. 
 
 Chicken Gombo. 
 
 Cut two chickens into handsome pieces, and fry until 
 a delicate brown in half a cupful of salt-pork fat, ob- 
 tained by frying half a pound of salt pork slowly. When 
 the chicken is cooked, take it up and put it into a large 
 stew-pan. Into the fat in which the meat was fried put a 
 large onion, cut into thin slices, and fry slowly for ten 
 minutes ; then add a quart of okra, cut fine, five sliced 
 tomatoes, and two sprigs of parsley. Fry all these in- 
 gredients rather slowly for half an hour ; then add them 
 to the fried chicken. Pour into the dish a pint and a 
 half of boiling water, and season with half a teaspoonful 
 
SOUPS. 131 
 
 of pepper and two scant table-spoonfuls of salt. Stew 
 slowly for two hours ; then add a cupful of cream and a 
 cupful of boiled rice. Taste, to be sure there is enough 
 seasoning ; and if there be, boil up once, and serve. 
 
 This is a famous Southern dish. When fresh okra 
 cannot be obtained, one can of the article may be substi- 
 tuted. The chickens may be a year or more old. One- 
 fifth of a teaspoonful of cayenne may be used instead of 
 white pepper, if preferred. The dish is so substantial 
 that it is sufficient for a dinner, with vegetables, and a 
 light dessert. 
 
 Oyster Gombo. 
 
 Use one large chicken or two small ones, three table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, four table-spoonfuls of flour, one 
 quart of oysters, two quarts of boiling water, two sprigs 
 of parsley, two of thyme, three teaspoonfuls of salt, half 
 a teaspoonful of white pepper, one-eighth of a teaspoon- 
 ful of cayenne, and one scant teaspoonful of powdered 
 sassafras. 
 
 Draw, singe, and wash the chickens. Wipe them, and 
 then cut into joints. Eoll these pieces in the flour. Put 
 the butter on the fire in the frying-pan ; and when it 
 becomes hot, put in the chicken, and cook until brown 
 on all sides. Take the chicken from the frying-pan 
 and put it in a large stew-pan with the boiling water. 
 Put into the frying-pan any flour remaining from that 
 in which the chicken was rolled, and stir until smooth 
 and frothy. Add this mixture to the chicken and water. 
 Now add the salt and pepper and the parsley and thyme, 
 tied in a bunch. Simmer for two hours. See if the 
 bones will slip from the chicken ; if they will not, sim- 
 mer until they will ; then take out the herbs. 
 
 Mix the powdered sassafras with half a cupful of cold 
 water, and stir into the stew-pan. Now add the oysters. 
 Let the contents of the kettle boil up once, and then serve 
 in a tureen. A dish of rice should accompany the gombo. 
 
132 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Okra Soup. 
 
 This is a palatable and substantial soup. It is made 
 of a quart of okra, a fowl, a quarter of a pound of 
 salt pork, half a can of tomato, an onion, two generous 
 quarts of boiling water, four table-spoonfuls of flour, 
 two generous table-spoonfuls of butter, three teaspoon- 
 fuls of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. The 
 tomato is not absolutely indispensable. 
 
 Wash the fowl, and cut it into joints and other pieces 
 convenient to handle. Slice the pork, and fry it brown ; 
 then remove it, and put the meat into the fat. Fry 
 until brown, and then put into a soup-pot. Wash the 
 okra carefully, and cut it into slices. Cut the onion fine, 
 and cook it in the frying-pan for two minutes ; then put 
 in the okra, and after cooking for ten minutes, transfer 
 it to the soup-pot. Put the butter and flour into the 
 frying-pan, and stir until brown. Pour two quarts of 
 boiling water into the soup-pot, and then stir in the 
 browned flour. Add the tomato and seasoning, and after 
 covering the soup, let it simmer for two hours and a half. 
 At the end of that time remove the bones of the fowl, 
 and serve the soup without straining. 
 
 Okra-and-Rice Soup. 
 
 The materials required are two quarts of chicken 
 stock, one quart of green okra, one uncooked tomato or 
 four table-spoonfuls of stewed tomato, two table-spoon- 
 fuls of chopped onion, two of flour, three of butter, one- 
 fourth of a cupful of rice, half a teaspoonful of pepper, 
 three teaspoonfuls of salt. 
 
 Cook the butter and onion together for three minutes ; 
 then add the flour, and stir until smooth and brown. 
 Heat the stock, and add this mixture to it ; then add 
 the tomato, salt, and pepper, and simmer for an hour. 
 
 Wash the rice in three waters, and put it into a large 
 stew-pan. Wash the okra carefully, and after cutting 
 
SOUPS. 133 
 
 off the ends of the pods, cut the remaining parts into 
 thin slices. Put the okra into the stew-pan with the 
 rice. Place a coarse strainer over the stew-pan, and> pour 
 the liquid mixture through it ; then cover the soup, and 
 let it simmer for an hour or more. Taste it, to ascertain 
 whether there is a proper amount of seasoning, before 
 serving. 
 
 * Bean Soup. 
 
 Use one pint of beans (scarlet runners are the best), 
 two quarts of water, one table-spoonful of butter, one- 
 fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, and one table-spoonful 
 of salt. 
 
 Wash the beans, and let them soak over night in three 
 quarts of cold water. In the morning pour off the water, 
 and put the beans in a soup-pot with two quarts of fresh 
 cold water. Cook slowly for five hours, stirring fre- 
 quently. Take the beans from the fire at the end of 
 that time, and rub them through a sieve. Return them 
 to the soup-pot, and after adding the salt, pepper, and 
 butter, cook for twenty minutes longer. Serve with 
 small squares of toasted or fried bread. 
 
 * Scotch Pur6e. 
 
 This is a substantial soup, being made of six large 
 potatoes, two large onions, the yellow part of a medium- 
 sized carrot, one pound of the neck of mutton, half a 
 teaspoonful of pepper, two level table-spoonfuls of salt, 
 one table-spoonful of butter, and three scant quarts of 
 water. 
 
 Cut most of the fat from the mutton, and then cut 
 nearly all the meat from the bones. Put the meat and 
 bones into a large stew-pan with the cold water, and 
 after heating slowly to the boiling-point and skimming 
 carefully, simmer for one hour. Scrape the carrot, and 
 then grate the yellow part, not touching the heart. Chop 
 the onion very fine, and slice the potatoes thin. 
 
134 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 When the meat has simmered for an hour, add the 
 vegetables, and simmer for two hours more. At the end 
 of that time add the pepper, salt, and butter, and cook 
 half an hour longer. Kub through a coarse sieve, and 
 serve hot. 
 
 * Pea Soup. 
 
 Pick over and wash a quart of dried peas, and soak 
 over night in three quarts of cold water. In the morn- 
 ing pour off all this water, and put the peas into the 
 soup-kettle with seven quarts of cold water, a pound 
 of salt pork, three cloves, two large onions, and three 
 stalks of celery, or, if you have no celery, one tea- 
 spoonful of celery salt. Boil gently for seven hours, 
 stirring often, and at the end of that time rub the soup 
 through a fine sieve. Return it to the kettle ; and after 
 tying two sprigs of parsley and two bay leaves together, 
 add them to the soup. Taste, to be sure there is season- 
 ing enough, and add a pint of milk or cream. When the 
 soup boils up, serve with toasted bread cut into dice. 
 The milk may be omitted. 
 
 St. Germain Soup. 
 
 Two cans of peas, an onion, a bay leaf, a sprig of 
 parsley, a bit of mace, a teaspoonful of sugar, a quarter 
 of a teaspoonful of white pepper, one table-spoonful of 
 salt, three of butter, three of flour, a pint of milk, and 
 three pints of stock are what St. Germain soup calls 
 for. 
 
 Eeserve half a pint of the peas, and put the remainder 
 of the contents of the two cans into a stew-pan with the 
 onion, pepper, salt, and sugar. Tie the herbs and mace 
 together, and add them also. Cover the stew-pan, and 
 simmer for half an hour, being careful not to burn ; then 
 mash the onion and peas very fine, and add the stock 
 to them. Let the soup heat to the boiling-point, and 
 add the flour and butter, rubbed together until light 
 and creamy. Stir well, and cook ten minutes longer; 
 
SOUPS. 135 
 
 then rub through a fine sieve. Return to the fire, and 
 add the milk and remainder of the peas, well drained. 
 Cook ten minutes longer, and then satisfy yourself that 
 there is sufficient seasoning. Serve with toasted bread. 
 
 Green Pea Soup. 
 
 This soup is made of a can of peas, a quart of chicken 
 stock, a cupful of cream or milk, two table-spoonfuls of 
 butter, two of flour, an onion, and salt and pepper. 
 
 Cook the onion, peas, and stock together for twenty 
 minutes ; then remove the onion, and rub the peas and 
 stock through a sieve. Return the soup to the stew-pan, 
 and let it simmer for ten minutes. Rub the butter and 
 flour to a cream, and gradually add to this half a cupful 
 of the soup; then pour the mixture into the stew-pan. 
 Add the pepper and salt and cupful of cream ; and after 
 the soup has boiled for three minutes, it will be finished. 
 
 A much more delicious soup can be made of fresh 
 green peas when they are in season. 
 
 Asparagus Soup. 
 
 Use a can of asparagus, a pint of white stock, a pint 
 of cream or milk, two table-spoonfuls of butter, one of 
 chopped onion, two of* flour, one teaspoonful of sugar, one 
 teaspoonful and a half of salt, and one-eighth of a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper. 
 
 Cut off and lay aside the heads of the asparagus, and 
 cut the stalks into short pieces, and put them on to boil 
 in a stew-pan with the pint of stock. Put the butter and 
 onion into a small frying-pan, and cook slowly for ten 
 minutes ; then add the flour, and stir until the mixture 
 is smooth and frothy, being careful not to brown. Add 
 this, together with the sugar, salt, and pepper, to the 
 stock and asparagus, and simmer for a quarter of an 
 hour ; then rub the soup through a sieve, and return it 
 to the stew-pan. Add the cream and asparagus heads, 
 and after boiling up once, serve without delay. 
 
186 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 In case fresh asparagus be substituted for canned, use 
 two bunches. Cook them in the stock or water for 
 twenty minutes. Remove the heads for later use, and 
 proceed with the cooking the same as when canned as- 
 paragus is used. 
 
 Sorrel Soup. 
 
 This palatable spring soup requires a quart of sorrel, 
 three table-spoonfuls of butter, two table-spoonfuls of 
 flour, a teaspoonful and a half of salt, a quarter of a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, a teaspoonful of sugar, half an onion, 
 half a cupful of water, a pint of milk, and a pint of 
 cream. 
 
 After washing the sorrel, put it into a stew-pan with 
 the cold water, and boil for ten minutes ; then drain off 
 the water, and chop the sorrel very fine. Cut the onion 
 into bits, and putting it into a frying-pan with the but- 
 ter, cook it slowly for five minutes ; then add the flour, 
 and stir until smooth and frothy. Add the chopped 
 sorrel, sugar, salt, and pepper, and after stirring for 
 three minutes, gradually pour in the milk, which should 
 be cold. Simmer for five minutes, and meanwhile heat 
 the cream to the boiling-point. Strain the soup, and add 
 the cream to it ; then serve immediately. 
 
 This is the simplest kind of sorrel soup, save that 
 milk may be substituted for the pint of cream. A richer 
 kind is made by using a pint of white stock in place of 
 the same quantity of milk, and the richness may be fur- 
 ther increased by beating the yolks of two eggs with two 
 table-spoonfuls of milk and pouring the soup upon this 
 mixture just before serving time. Do not fall into the 
 error of supposing that it will be as well to stir the eggs 
 into the soup, because they would then be cooked in 
 flakes, whereas by the other way they are cooked to a 
 smooth cream. Sorrel soup is not so handsome as some 
 green soups, because the heat spoils the original color of 
 the plant, but it is certainly delicious. 
 
SOUPS. 137 
 
 Normandy Soup. 
 
 Normandy soup is made of three pounds of the knuckle 
 of veal, three quarts of cold water, one quart of milk, an 
 onion, a slice of carrot, a slice of turnip, a slight grating 
 of nutmeg, a quart of stale bread, free of crust, two large 
 table-spoonfuls of butter and one of flour, and some salt 
 and pepper. 
 
 After washing the veal, put it on the stove with the 
 cold water j and when the water begins to boil, skim it 
 carefully, and set back where it will boil only gently. 
 After the meat has been cooked for three hours, put the 
 butter into a small frying-pan with the onion, turnip, and 
 carrot, all cut fine, and cook slowly for ten minutes ; 
 then draw the vegetables to the side of the pan, press 
 the butter from them, and transfer them to the soup-pot. 
 Put the flour with the butter remaining in the frying- 
 pan, and stir until the mixture is smooth and frothy, but 
 not till it is brown ; then add to the contents of the ket- 
 tle. Add also the bread, nutmeg, one table-spoonful and 
 a half of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Cook the 
 soup slowly for two hours more ; then remove it from 
 the fire, and press through a colander. The veal, of 
 course, will not pass through, but all the rest should. It 
 should then be returned to the kettle, and the quart of 
 milk, heated to the boiling-point, should be added. When 
 the soup boils up it will be ready for serving. 
 
 Garbure a la Printanidre. 
 
 This is a variety of vegetable soup which is very popu- 
 lar in France. For six or eight persons use three quarts 
 of cold water, four or five pounds of the upper part of 
 the round of beef, two onions, a quart of fine-shred cab- 
 bage, one pint each of carrots and turnips, and half a 
 pint of celery, cut into dice, one pint of peas, if they be 
 in season, two young leeks, four cloves, the crust of a 
 good-sized loaf of bread, one level teaspoonful of pepper, 
 
138 MISS PARLOA-'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 one table-spoonful of sugar, two of salt, and three of 
 butter. 
 
 After putting the beef, in one solid piece, into the 
 soup-pot, and adding the cold water, set the soup-pot 
 where its contents will heat slowly to the boiling-point. 
 Skim the liquid carefully, and set back where it will re- 
 main at the boiling-point temperature for five hours. 
 When three hours have passed, pare one of the onions, 
 and placing it in an old saucer, bake it in a hot oven 
 until it turns a delicate brown, say for fifteen or twenty 
 minutes. Put the onion into the soup-pot, and also put 
 in a table-spoonful of the carrot, of the turnip, of the 
 celery, and of the salt, as well as half a teaspoonful of 
 the pepper. Cover the kettle, and cook the contents for 
 an hour and a half. 
 
 At the end of the hour cut the bread crust into pieces 
 about two inches square, and after spreading them in a 
 pan, put them into a moderate oven to dry. Now put 
 the cabbage into a stew-pan with one pint of boiling 
 water. Cover the pan, and set where the contents will 
 boil gently. Next put the butter into a stew-pan, and 
 add the remaining carrots, turnips, and celery, and the 
 onion, cut fine. Shake the pan over the fire for a few 
 minutes ; then add the sugar. Cover, and cook slowly 
 for half an hour, stirring frequently, and being careful 
 not to brown the vegetables. 
 
 At the end of the half-hour turn the cabbage into a 
 strainer, and pour cold water over it. Drain the cabbage 
 well, and add it, with the peas, to the vegetables in the 
 stew-pan. Add, also, a quart of broth from the soup-pot, 
 besides the remaining salt and pepper. Cover, and cook 
 slowly for one hour. 
 
 When the vegetables have been cooking for half an 
 hour in the stock, spread the crust of bread on the bot- 
 tom and sides of a deep dish, and moisten them with a 
 generous pint of broth from the soup-pot, taking the 
 broth from the top, so as to get as much fat as possible. 
 
SOUPS. 139 
 
 Set the dish in a moderate oven, and cook for half an 
 hour. On taking it from the oven at the end of this time, 
 pour the vegetables and their broth over the bread crusts. 
 Strain the broth from the soup-pot into the tureen, and 
 serve at once. 
 
 The mode of serving this is to put some of the vegeta- 
 bles and the bread in each soup plate, and then turn a 
 ladle of soup into the dish. 
 
 The meat may be served in a separate course. There 
 should be a good brown sauce or a Mayonnaise sauce to 
 go with it. 
 
 Spring Soup. 
 
 This differs only slightly from ordinary Julienne soup. 
 The carrots and turnips should be cut into little balls 
 with a vegetable-cutter, and the string-beans and shell- 
 beans should be cut into small cubes. Any vegetable or 
 any green salad may be used in the soup. The French 
 word printaniere is used more commonly on bills of fare 
 to describe this soup than the English word "Spring." 
 One finds under various fine names dozens of soups that 
 vary only in the slightest degree. This is the case with 
 a great many soups made of clear stock ; the change of 
 a single ingredient often being sufficient cause for a 
 change of name. 
 
 Carrot Soup. 
 
 For this light summer soup there will be needed a 
 quart of grated carrot, which gives it the flavor and 
 color, and two quarts of stock, two table-spoonfuls of 
 butter, two of flour, one of salt, half a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, an onion, and a pint of milk or -cream. 
 
 Wash, scrape, and grate enough carrots to fill a quart 
 measure, and turn into a soup-pot with the stock, onion, 
 salt, and pepper. Heat to the boiling-point, and set back 
 where the soup will simply simmer for one hour. At 
 the end of that time put the butter into a small frying- 
 pan, and when it becomes hot, add the flour. Stir the 
 
140 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 mixture until it gets smooth and frothy ; then add to 
 the contents of the soup-pot. Boil for ten minutes. 
 Pour the soup into a line sieve, and after removing the 
 onion, rub as much of the carrot as possible through the 
 sieve. Return the strained mixture to the soup-pot, and 
 add the milk or cream. Boil up once, and serve. 
 
 It adds to the appearance and flavor of the soup to 
 stir the beaten yolks of four eggs into the cold cream or 
 milk before turning it into the soup-pot. But if eggs be 
 used, great care must be taken to prevent the soup from 
 boiling after the addition is made. Simply allow it to 
 get hot, for boiling would curdle the eggs and mar the 
 appearance of the dish. 
 
 Pure of Carrots. 
 
 For this soup use one quart of the red part of the 
 carrot, grated, one quart of white stock, one quart of 
 milk, one pint of boiling water, one pint of stale bread, 
 free of crust, two teaspoonfuls of sugar, three level tea- 
 spoonfuls of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, 
 and four table-spoonfuls of butter. 
 
 Put the grated carrot, the pint of boiling water, the 
 butter and sugar into a stew-pan, and after covering 
 closely, let them simmer for one hour ; then add the 
 bread and stock, and cook for an hour longer. At the 
 end of that time take the pan from the stove, and rub its 
 contents first through a puree sieve, and then through a 
 fine French sieve. Add the salt and pepper ; and after 
 reserving half a cupful of the milk, add the remainder, 
 which should be hot. Eeturn the soup to the fire, and 
 let it boil up once ; then add the egg yolks, after beating 
 them in the cold milk that was. set aside. Cook for one 
 minute, stirring all the while, and serve immediately 
 afterward. 
 
 With the materials given in this receipt, two quarts 
 of soup may be made, enough for ten or twelve 
 persons. 
 
80UPS. 141 
 
 * Tomato Soup. 
 
 Put a gallon of water into the soup-pot, and add to it 
 the bones and gristle left from a roast of mutton or any 
 other roast. Boil until the liquid is reduced to two 
 quarts ; then strain, and set in a cool place. At the end 
 of an hour skim off all the fat, and return the stock to 
 the soup-pot, adding to it a can of tomatoes, four cloves, 
 half a teaspoonful of pepper, a table-spoonful of salt, and 
 a grain of cayenne. Put on to boil. In the mean time 
 put four table-spoonfuls of butter into the frying-pan, 
 and when it has become melted, add an onion, two slices 
 of carrot, two of turnip, and four stalks of celery, all 
 cut fine. Cook slowly for a quarter of an hour ; then 
 draw the vegetables to the side of the pan, and after 
 pressing the butter from them, put them into the soup. 
 Into the butter remaining in the frying-pan put four 
 table-spoonfuls of flour, and stir until smooth and 
 frothy; then add to the soup, being careful to scrape 
 every particle of the mixture out of the pan. Let the 
 soup simmer for half an hour. Taste, to ascertain 
 whether there is enough seasoning. Strain, and serve 
 with fried bread. 
 
 Two quarts of stock may be substituted for the bones 
 and water. 
 
 * Green-Corn-and-Tomato Soup. 
 
 This requires two pounds of the neck of beef, a quart of 
 sliced tomatoes, a quart of corn sliced from the cob, three 
 pints of water, one table-spoonful of butter, one of flour, 
 and salt and pepper to suit the taste. Put the meat and 
 water into a soup-pot, and as soon as the liquor begins 
 to boil, skim it carefully. Simmer for three hours ; then 
 add the tomato and the corn-cobs. Cook for half an 
 hour ; then strain into another kettle, and add the corn, 
 the flour and butter mixed together, and enough salt and 
 pepper to season well. Cook forty minutes longer. 
 
142 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Macaroni-and-Tomato Soup. 
 
 The materials required are two pounds of the neck 
 of beef, three quarts of water, one pint of stewed 
 tomato, one pint of macaroni broken into two-inch 
 pieces, an onion, two cloves, a sprig of parsley, half 
 a cupful of corn-starch, two table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 about three teaspoonfuls of salt, and half a teaspoonful 
 of pepper. 
 
 Have the meat perfectly clean and broken into small 
 pieces. Put it into a soup-pot with the cold water, and 
 heat it slowly to the boiling-point ; then skim carefully, 
 and simmer for two hours. At the end of that time add 
 the onion, parsley, and clove, and cook for an hour longer. 
 After skimming off all fat from the soup, mix the corn- 
 starch with a cupful of cold water, and stir it into the 
 soup. Now add the tomato, salt, and pepper, and cook 
 gently for half an hour longer. Wash the macaroni in 
 cold water, and put it into a stew-pan with a quart of 
 boiling water. Boil rapidly for twenty minutes; then 
 turn the macaroni into a colander, and pour a quart of 
 cold water over it. Strain the soup, and return it to 
 the kettle ; then add the macaroni, and cook for twenty 
 minutes. Serve toasted bread with the soup. 
 
 * Rice-and-Tomato Soup. 
 
 For six or eight persons use one can of tomato, one- 
 third of a cupful of rice, a large onion, a large slice of 
 carrot, a quart of water, three table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 three teaspoonfuls of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, 
 and two table-spoonfuls of flour. 
 
 Cut the onion and carrot very fine, and put them into 
 a small frying-pan, with the butter. Cook slowly for 
 twenty minutes. Put the tomato and a quart of water 
 into a stew-pan, and heat until the liquid boils up. 
 When the vegetables have been cooked for twenty min- 
 utes, skim them from the butter, and add them to the 
 
SOUPS. 143 
 
 tomato and water. Put the flour with the butter re- 
 maining in the pan, and cook until smooth and frothy, 
 stirring all the while ; then add to the mixture in the 
 stew-pan, and set this pan where its contents will simmer 
 for half an hour. 
 
 Wash the rice, and put it into the soup-pot. When 
 the tomato mixture has been cooked for half an hour, 
 rub it through a sieve, pressing everything through 
 except the seeds and skins. Pour the strained mixture 
 over the rice. Add the salt and pepper, and set the 
 soup-pot where its contents will cook slowly for an 
 hour. Stir the soup several times to prevent the rice 
 from sticking to the bottom of the kettle. Serve very 
 hot. 
 
 Puree of Tomatoes. 
 
 To make soup enough for eight or ten persons, use one 
 can of tomatoes, three pints of stock, one ounce of ham. 
 a table-spoonful of chopped onion, one of chopped carrot 
 a sprig of parsley, a clove, two table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 two of flour, half a teaspoonful of pepper, three level tea- 
 spoonfuls of salt, one teaspoonful of sugar, and a pint of 
 stale bread, free of crust. 
 
 Put the tomato, ham, parsley, and clove on to boil. 
 Put the butter and vegetables in a small frying-pan, and 
 cook slowly for fifteen minutes ; then skim the vegetables 
 from the butter, and add them to the tomato. Stir the 
 flour into the butter remaining in the pan, and cook until 
 smooth and frothy, stirring all the while. Add this mix- 
 ture, with the salt and pepper, to the tomato, and cook 
 for forty minutes. 
 
 Let the bread and stock simmer for half an hour. 
 Strain the tomato mixture over this liquid, and then 
 rub the soup through a fine sieve. Return it to the fire, 
 and let it boil up once ; and after tasting, to make sure 
 that it is properly seasoned, serve at once. 
 
 : 
 
144 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Pur6e of Spinach. 
 
 In making this soup there will be used half a peck of 
 spinach, a quart of stock, a pint of milk, half a pint of 
 cream, three table-spoonfuls of butter, the same quantity 
 of flour, a teaspoonful of sugar, and some salt and 
 pepper. 
 
 Wash the spinach until there is no sand visible, and 
 put it into a stew-pan without water. Cover closely, 
 and simmer for half an hour. Take up, chop very fine, 
 and pound to a paste ; then rub through a puree sieve. 
 Put the butter and flour into a stew-pan, and stir until 
 the mixture is smooth and frothy ; then add the spinach, 
 sugar, salt, and pepper, and stir for ten minutes. Grad- 
 ually add the stock; and when the mixture begins to 
 boil, add the hot milk and cream. Boil up once, and re- 
 move and rub through a fine sieve. Return to the fire ; 
 and when the puree begins to boil again, serve with fried 
 or toasted bread. 
 
 Pur6e of Cauliflower. 
 
 For this soup there will be required one good-sized 
 cauliflower, three table-spoonfuls of butter, two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, a small onion, a stalk of celery, a bay 
 leaf, a teaspoonful of sugar, one quart of white stock, 
 say chicken stock, one pint of milk, half a pint of 
 cream, and some salt and pepper. 
 
 After ridding the cauliflower of its green leaves, let it 
 soak, head down, in a pan of cold water for two hours ; 
 then put it into a stew-pan, with one table-spoonful of salt 
 and enough boiling water to cover it, and boil gently for 
 twenty-five minutes. Drain off all the water, and after 
 taking from the cauliflower enough little flowerets to 
 make a scant pint, chop and pound the remainder. 
 
 Put the butter into a stew-pan ; and when it becomes 
 melted, add the onion and celery, cut fine, and the bay 
 
SOUPS. 145 
 
 leaf. Cook slowly for ten minutes; then remove the 
 leaf and put in the flour. Stir until smooth and frothy ; 
 and after adding the mashed cauliflower, sugar, salt, and 
 pepper, stir the mixture ^over the fire for ten minutes, 
 being watchful to prevent it from browning. Rub through 
 a sieve, and return to the stew-pan. Stir until hot ; then 
 gradually add the stock. When the soup has been heated 
 to the boiling-point, add the milk and cream, which should 
 be hot, but not boiling. Let the puree bubble for a min- 
 ute ; then rub through a sieve for the second time, and 
 return it to the fire. Add the flowerets, boil up once, 
 and serve. 
 
 Do not be deterred by these long directions from mak- 
 ing the soup, for the work is not difficult. 
 
 Bisque of Mutton. 
 
 Provide for this soup three pounds of the neck of mut- 
 ton, two quarts of water, one quart of milk, half a cup- 
 ful of rice, a cupful of stewed tomatoes, two slices of 
 carrot, an onion, three teaspoonfuls of salt, half a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, a table-spoonful of flour, and a table- 
 spoonful of butter. 
 
 See that the meat is perfectly clean and free of fat. 
 Put it into a soup-pot with the rice, vegetables, and cold 
 water, and heat slowly to the boiling-point. When the 
 liquid begins to boil, skim it carefully ; then cover the 
 soup-pot closely, and set back where its contents will 
 cook gently for four hours. At the end of that time add 
 the butter and flour, mixed to a smooth paste, and the 
 salt and pepper. Put the quart of milk on the stove in 
 a double-boiler ; and as soon as it gets boiling hot, pour it 
 into the kettle. Strain the soup immediately, and the 
 work will be finished. 
 
 The bones and hard bits left from a roast of mutton, 
 veal, or beef may be used for this soup, which should 
 then be given the name of the meat taken for its foun- 
 dation. 
 
146 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Bisque of Beef. 
 
 Use three pounds of the lower part of a leg of beef 
 (have the butcher cut it into small pieces), three quarts 
 of cold water, one pint of milk, a scant half-cupful of 
 rice, half a pint of strained tomato, a table-spoonful of 
 salt, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
 Put the meat and bone into the soup-pot with the cold 
 water, and heat slowly to the boiling-point; then skim 
 the liquor carefully, and set the soup-pot back where its 
 contents will only simmer during the next five hours. 
 At the expiration of that time strain the liquor, and free 
 it of fat ; then return it to the soup-pot. Wash the rice 
 thoroughly, and after adding it to the bisque, cook for 
 half an hour ; then put in the milk and seasoning, and 
 boil up once. The addition of the tomato completes the 
 work. 
 
 * Scotch Broth. 
 
 From about two pounds of the neck of mutton remove 
 all fat and bone. Put the bone into a stew-pan with two 
 quarts of water, and simmer for one hour. Cut the lean 
 mutton into cubes, and put it into a stew-pan with a 
 scant half-teacupful of well-washed pearl barley, and 
 two table-spoonfuls each of onion, carrot, turnip, and 
 celery, all cut fine. Strain the water from the bones on 
 this preparation, and place where the broth will simmer 
 for three hours. When it begins to bubble, skim it, and 
 add half a teaspoonful of pepper and a level table-spoon- 
 ful of salt. At the end of the three hours put a table- 
 spoonful of butter into a small saucepan, and place it on 
 the fire. As soon as the butter becomes hot, add a table- 
 spoonful of flour, and stir until the mixture is smooth 
 and frothy. Stir this into the broth, add the minced 
 parsley, and cook for ten minutes longer. 
 
 This is such a substantial soup that it should be served 
 for luncheon, or when the main part of the dinner is light. 
 
SOUPS. 147 
 
 If the amount of salt and pepper given be insufficient, 
 add more. 
 
 Cream-of-Cauliflower Soup. 
 
 Carefully wash a good-sized cauliflower, and putting 
 it into a kettle that will hold little beside it, cover with 
 boiling chicken stock, and boil slowly for thirty-five min- 
 utes. Boil together for twenty minutes a quart of milk 
 and a large onion. When the cauliflower has been cooked 
 for the prescribed time, take it up, and after putting aside 
 a quarter of it, mash the remainder fine in a wooden 
 bowl, using a vegetable-masher. Eeturn this part to 
 the liquor in which it was boiled (there should not be 
 more than a quart), and add the milk in which the onion 
 was cooked, as well as the slightest ' grating of nutmeg. 
 Strain the mixture into the double-boiler, and return 
 to the fire. Mix three large table-spoonfuls of butter 
 with three of flour, and stir into the soup. Season with 
 salt and pepper. Break into little pieces the quarter 
 of the cauliflower which was reserved, and add to the 
 soup. With ten minutes' more cooking, the dish will 
 be finished. 
 
 Cream-of-Macaroni Soup. 
 
 Break up fine, and then wash, half a cupful of maca- 
 roni, and put it into the soup-pot with a quart of chicken 
 stock, a quarter of an onion, a small slice of carrot, a 
 stalk of celery, a small piece of cinnamon, and a slight 
 grating of nutmeg. Cover, and cook very slowly for 
 two hours. Tie together a sprig of parsley, a bay leaf, 
 a leaf of sage, and a sprig of thyme, and allow the bunch 
 to remain in the soup-pot for five minutes. Rub the 
 soup through a puree sieve (one of coarse wire, some- 
 times called a squash sieve, may be used) ; then add 
 one-third of a teaspoonful of white pepper and a heaping 
 teaspoonful of salt, and rub through the sieve again. 
 Return to the double-boiler, and cook for half an hour, 
 
148 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 At the end of that time put two table-spoonfuls of butter 
 into the frying-pan, and when it has become hot, add a 
 table-spoonful of flour. Stir until smooth and frothy, 
 being careful that it does not become brown, and then 
 stir into the soup. Add a pint of cream that has been 
 heated to the boiling-point. Beat together the yolks of 
 two eggs and a cupful of cold milk, and stir this mixture 
 into the soup. Serve immediately. 
 
 This soup should not be allowed to boil after the yolks 
 of the eggs have been added. As salt and pepper vary 
 in strength, more may be required than the quantities 
 stated above. Just before stirring in the egg mixture, 
 taste the soup ; and if more seasoning be needed, add 
 it then. 
 
 * Cream-of-Rice Soup. 
 
 For three quarts of soup there will be required two 
 pounds of the neck or shin of beef or veal or of the 
 neck of mutton, an onion, two slices of carrot, a stalk of 
 celery, when it may be obtained, half a cupful of rice, 
 two quarts and a pint of water, a quart of milk, a gener- 
 ous table-spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, 
 one table-spoonful of butter, two cloves, and a small piece 
 of stick cinnamon. 
 
 Be careful that the meat is perfectly sweet and clean, 
 and rid it of all its fat. After cutting it into small 
 pieces and putting it into a good-sized stew-pan, pour 
 the cold water upon it. Heat slowly to the boiling- 
 point; then skim, cover closely again, and set back 
 where the water will boil slowly for four hours. At 
 the end of three hours add the vegetables and spice. 
 
 Wash the half-cupful of rice carefully, and put it into 
 a deep stew-pan. Strain upon it the liquor from the 
 meat, when it has cooked four hours, and set the stew- 
 pan where the soup will simmer for an hour and a half; 
 then add the salt and pepper, and strain the soup through 
 a fine sieve, rubbing every particle of rice through the 
 
SOUPS. 149 
 
 meshes. Return the mixture to the stew-pan, and put it 
 back on the fire. Heat the quart of milk to the boiling- 
 point, in a double-boiler (so as to prevent burning), and 
 add it to the soup. Add also the table-spoonful of butter. 
 Boil up once, and serve. 
 
 Cream-of-tapioca and cream-of-sago soups may be pre- 
 pared in the same way, only the soup should not be 
 strained after the sago or tapioca has been added, the 
 first straining being sufficient. 
 
 * Cream-of-Barley Soup. 
 
 This is made in the same way as cream-of-rice soup, 
 only the barley must be cooked for four hours. If it 
 be one's custom to have an early dinner, or if the soup 
 is to be served at luncheon, it will be well to prepare 
 the stock the previous day. 
 
 Cream-of-Bread Soup. 
 
 The directions for cream-of-rice soup should be fol- 
 lowed, save that two quarts of broken bread should be 
 substituted for the half-cupful of rice. It should be 
 cooked in the stock and rubbed through a sieve, and the 
 soup should be finished like the first one. The bread 
 used must be yeast bread, at least two days old ; it should 
 be broken into pieces about half the size of a hen's egg, 
 and be measured lightly. This soup is a very smooth 
 and nice one. 
 
 Two quarts and half a pint of any kind of stock, if 
 you have it, will do for these soups. All the trimmings, 
 bones, and gristle left from broils or a roast may be used 
 to produce stock. The water in which poultry or mut- 
 ton has been boiled will answer very well. Of course the 
 richer the stock, the more nutritious the soup will be. 
 
 Peas, asparagus, cauliflower, carrots, celery, and pota- 
 toes all make the most delicious cream soups, with or 
 without stock for a foundation. When one has cream 
 
150 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 to spare, it is advisable to put it into a soup ; for half a 
 pint, costing perhaps ten cents, will add fifty per cent 
 to the flavor. 
 
 * Tapioca-and-Milk Soup. 
 
 For six or eight persons use half a cupful of tapioca, 
 two cupfuls of water, three pints of inilk, three table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, two of flour, one of salt, one-third 
 of a teaspoonful of pepper, one large onion, two blades 
 of celery, and a slight grating of nutmeg. 
 
 Wash the tapioca, and let it soak for six hours or 
 more in the two cupfuls of cold water ; then put it into 
 the double-boiler, and cook it for an hour. At the end 
 of this time put the milk into another double-boiler, and 
 set it on the stove to heat. Now put the butter, the 
 onion, and the celery, chopped fine, into a small frying- 
 pan, and cook slowly for ten minutes; then add the 
 flour, and stir until smooth and frothy. Pour the con- 
 tents of the pan into the boiler of hot milk ; and after 
 adding the salt, pepper, and nutmeg, cook ten minutes 
 longer. At the end of this time strain the milk mixture 
 into the boiler containing the tapioca, and cook all for 
 half an hour. Taste the soup, to be sure that there is 
 seasoning enough ; it may be necessary 'to add some salt 
 or pepper. 
 
 Rice, sago, and barley soup may be made in the same 
 manner, save that barley must be cooked for five hours. 
 
 * Poulette Soup. 
 
 For this soup use three pints of milk, three table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, three of flour, three each of chopped 
 onion, celery, carrot, and turnip, a bay leaf, a sprig of 
 parsley, half a blade of mace, three level teaspoonfuls 
 of salt, one-third of a teaspoonful of pepper, one cupful 
 of cream, and the yolks of four eggs. 
 
 Put the milk on the stove in a double-boiler, with the 
 mace, parsley, and bay leaf. Put the butter and chopped 
 
SOUPS. 151 
 
 vegetables in a saucepan, and let them cook slowly for 
 twenty minutes, being careful that they do not brown ; 
 then add the flour, and stir until the mixture becomes 
 frothy. Now gradually pour the milk upon it, and cook 
 for five minutes, stirring all the while. Add the salt 
 and pepper, and turn the mixture into the double-boiler, 
 to cook for half an hour. 
 
 Beat the yolks of the eggs well, and add the cream to 
 them. Stir this mixture into the soup, and cook for one 
 minute, stirring all the time. Eemove the soup from 
 the fire immediately, and strain into a tureen. Serve 
 with either toasted crackers or bread. 
 
 * Noodle Soup. 
 
 To make the noodles, break a large egg into a bowl, 
 and beat into it a little more than half a cupful of flour 
 and one-fourth of a teaspoonful of salt. Now work this 
 dough with the hands until it becomes smooth and like 
 putty. Sprinkle a moulding-board with flour, and roll 
 the dough as thin as possible. It should be like a wafer. 
 Let it lie upon the board for five minutes; then roll 
 it up loosely, and with a sharp knife cut it into slices 
 about one-third of an inch thick. Spread these little 
 pieces on the board, and let them dry for half an hour 
 or more. Put on the stove a large saucepan contain- 
 ing two quarts of boiling water. Add a table-spoonful 
 of salt, and after turning the noodles into the water, 
 cook them rapidly for twenty-five minutes. Turn into 
 a colander, and drain. 
 
 To make the soup, use three pints of milk, three table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, one slice of onion, a bit of mace, two 
 teaspoonfuls of salt, and one-third of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper. 
 
 Ee serve half a cupful of the milk, and put the rest, 
 with the onion and mace, on the stove in a double-boiler. 
 Mix the flour and cold milk, and stir the mixture into 
 the boiling milk Add the salt and pepper, and cook for 
 
152 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 fifteen minutes. At the end of that time take out the 
 mace and onion and add the noodles. Five minutes' 
 cooking will complete the work. 
 
 Cream-of-Artichoke Soup. 
 
 When French artichokes are comparatively cheap and 
 in fine condition, it is well to use them in soup as well 
 as a vegetable. Here is a simple rule for a cream soup 
 made with them : 
 
 Use one quart of milk, two artichokes of good size, 
 two table-spoonfuls of butter, two generous table-spoon- 
 fuls of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, and one-fourth of a 
 teaspoonful of white pepper. 
 
 Wash the artichokes, and let them stand for an hour 
 in two quarts of cold water to which has been added 
 two table- spoonfuls of salt. If the edges of the leaves 
 be dry or brown, cut them (the edges) off. At the end 
 of the two hours place the artichokes in a stew-pan with 
 boiling water enough to cover them, and boil for thirty- 
 five minutes. Now take from the fire, and drain. Pull 
 the leaves from the head; then take out the "choke" 
 and throw it away. Put the leaves and the bottoms of 
 the artichokes in a puree sieve, and rub all the soft parts 
 through. Add the strained artichokes to a cream foun- 
 dation, and after boiling the soup up once, serve. 
 
 This is the way to make the cream foundation to which 
 reference has just been made : When the artichokes 
 have been cooking for a quarter of an hour, put the milk 
 on the fire in the double-boiler. Beat the butter and 
 flour together, and gradually pour upon this mixture 
 about half a pint of the boiling milk. Stir this new 
 mixture into the milk remaining in the double-boiler. 
 Add the salt and pepper, and cook for ten minutes. The 
 cream will then be ready for the artichokes. 
 
 This soup is sometimes garnished with chicken force- 
 meat balls or with profiteroles. Indeed, the latter arti- 
 
SOUPS. 153 
 
 cles are becoming quite popular as an accompaniment of 
 cream soups as well as of consomme. 
 
 
 * Palestine Soup. 
 
 For one quart of soup use enough Jerusalem artichokes 
 to make a generous pint when pared and sliced, one gen- 
 erous pint of milk, one teaspoon ful of salt, one-fourth of 
 a teaspoonful of pepper, two table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 and two of flour. 
 
 Scrape the artichokes, and put them in cold water. 
 When they all have been scraped, slice them, and place 
 them in another basin of cold water. Let them stand 
 for half an hour ; then put them in a stew-pan with two 
 quarts of boiling water, and cook for an hour and a quar- 
 ter. At the end of that time rub the artichokes through 
 a fine sieve ; then add to them one pint of the water in 
 which they were boiled. Set upon the stove, and heat to 
 the boiling-point. Rub the butter and flour together, and 
 stir into the boiling mixture. Add the salt and pepper, 
 and cook for ten minutes. Put the milk on the stove in 
 a double-boiler ; and when the soup has cooked for ten 
 minutes, add the hot milk to it, and boil up once. Serve 
 with toasted bread. 
 
 Unless the artichokes be kept in water until they are 
 cooked they will grow dark, and spoil the appearance of 
 the soup. 
 
 Imperial Soup. 
 
 If enough be wanted for six persons, use one quart of 
 chicken stock, one pint of cream, half a pint of stale 
 bread, free of crust, half the breast of a fowl, one level 
 teaspoonful and a half of salt, one-fourth of a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, one table-spoonful of flour, two of 
 butter, two of sherry, one of brandy, one bay leaf, one 
 clove, one sprig of parsley, one of thyme, a bit of cinna- 
 mon and of mace, a table-spoonful each of carrot, onion, 
 and celery, and the yolks of four eggs. 
 
I 
 
 * 
 
 154 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Clean the fowl, and cover it with cold water. About 
 three quarts will be needed. Heat it slowly to the boil- 
 ing-point, and skim carefully ; then set back where the 
 meat will simply be simmered until tender. 
 
 On removing the fowl, boil the water rapidly until 
 there is but a little less than two quarts left. Strain 
 this, t and set away to cool ; and when it is cool, skim off 
 all the fat. Put a quart of this stock in a stew-pan with 
 the stale bread, and cook for one hour, being careful not 
 to let it boil. 
 
 Put the butter and vegetables in a small frying-pan, and 
 cook slowly for twenty minutes. Pains must be taken to 
 prevent them from getting browned. At the end of the 
 twenty minutes skim out the vegetables, and put them in 
 a muslin bag with the herbs and spice. Tie the bag, and 
 put it in the stew-pan with the stock and bread. 
 
 Add the flour to the butter remaining in the pan, and 
 stir until smooth and frothy ; then stir into the mixture 
 in the stew-pan. Add the salt and pepper, and continue 
 cooking the stock until the hour expires. 
 
 Meanwhile chop the breast of the cooked chicken, and 
 pound it to a powder. Take the bag of seasonings from 
 the soup, and add the powdered meat. Cook for ten 
 minutes, and then rub through two sieves, the second 
 being a French fine sieve. Put the strained mixture 
 into a double-boiler, with three gills of hot cream, and 
 after covering, cook for five minutes. 
 
 Beat the yolks of the eggs until light, and add to them 
 a gill of cold cream. Stir this liquid into the soup, and 
 cook for one minute, stirring all the while; then take 
 the soup from the fire, add the brandy and wine, and 
 serve at once. 
 
 Not everybody would like the flavors of the wine and 
 liquor. They are not essential to the success of the 
 soup. People who are fond of berrapin will, however, 
 consider the soup as much improved if these last two 
 ingredients be used. 
 

 SOUPS. 155 
 
 
 
 Velvet Soup. 
 
 At one time it was fashionable to serve only clear soups 
 at company dinners or luncheons; but opinions on the 
 subject have changed, and now delicate cream soups and 
 bisques are considered better. For velvet soup you will 
 require a fowl weighing about five pounds, three pints 
 of cream, half a pint of blanched almonds, a generous 
 pint of stale bread, two table-spoonfuls of butter, one of 
 flour, three stalks of celery, a slice of carrot, an onion, 
 two bay leaves, two sprigs of parsley, two cloves, a small 
 piece of cinnamon, a bit of mace, a table-spoonful and a 
 half of salt, half a teaspoonful of white pepper, and two 
 generous quarts of water. 
 
 After cleaning the fowl, place it in a small stew-pan, 
 breast down. Pour in the water ; and when it has been 
 heated to the boiling-point, skim carefully, and set the 
 pan back where the water will simply simmer until the 
 meat is tender, say for two hours. When the cooking 
 is over, take up the fowl, and skim all the fat from the 
 water. Strain the water through an old napkin into a 
 clean stew-pan, and put with it the stale bread and the 
 vegetables and spice, tied loosely in a small piece of 
 thin muslin. Simmer for one hour. Meanwhile free 
 the breast of the fowl of skin, fat, and bones ; and after 
 chopping it fine, pound it to powder with a vegetable- 
 masher. Put aside for the present. Blanch the almonds, 
 and pound them to powder in a mortar, adding, in small 
 quantities from time to time, half a cupful of cream 
 taken from the three pints. 
 
 When the chicken stock has simmered for an hour, 
 take it from the fire ; and after removing the muslin and 
 its contents, rub the stock and bread through a fine sieve. 
 Add the salt, pepper, almonds, powdered breast of the 
 fowl, and the cream. Place on the fire ; and as soon as 
 the mixture boils up, add the flour and butter, rubbed 
 together until creamy. Boil for five minutes, and rub 
 
156 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 through a French fine sieve. Serve with chicken force- 
 meat balls. 
 
 This soup may be begun the day before it is to be 
 served. But the almonds and creain should not be 
 added. Stop when reaching that point. Let your meas- 
 uring of salt and pepper be generous. 
 
 Those parts of the fowl not needed for the soup may 
 be used for croquettes, a fricassee, blanquettes, or salad. 
 
 Pur6e of Grouse. 
 
 The ingredients are : a grouse, a quart of beef stock, 
 three pints of water, two table-spoonfuls of butter, one of 
 flour, one-third of a cupful of rice, an onion, a lemon, 
 two stalks of celery, a bay leaf, two cloves, and some 
 salt and pepper. 
 
 Eoast the bird for half an hour. Take all the meat 
 from the bones, and after removing the skin and fat, 
 chop it fine, and pound to powder. Set away for a while, 
 and, putting the bones into a stew-pan containing three 
 pints of water, simmer for three hours. There should 
 be a quart of liquor at the end of that time. Strain it, 
 and return it to the stew-pan. 
 
 Wash the rice, and put it into a small stew-pan with 
 one cupful and a half of the beef stock, to cook slowly 
 for an hour, the pan being covered closely all the time. 
 Rub the rice through a sieve, and add it to the powdered 
 grouse. 
 
 Put the butter, vegetables, bay leaf, and spice into a 
 small frying-pan, and cook slowly for ten minutes ; then 
 draw the pan forward to a place where the heat is 
 greater. Add the flour, and stir until it gets brown. 
 Gradually add the remainder of the stock, and after 
 boiling for five minutes, strain into the dish containing 
 the water in which the bones of the grouse were 
 simmered. 
 
 Put the rice and grouse into a stew-pan, and after 
 adding the salt and pepper, stir over the fire for eight 
 
SOUPS. 157 
 
 minutes. Add the seasoned and thickened stock, a little 
 at a time. Heat the puree to the boiling-point, and rub 
 it through a sieve ; then heat it again, and serve with or 
 without force-meat balls, as suits your fancy. After the 
 soup has been put into the tureen, add the lemon, sliced 
 very thin. 
 
 Potato Soup. 
 
 For six persons use half a dozen large potatoes, one 
 table-spoonful of chopped onion, half a pint of chopped 
 celery, one table-spoonful of flour, a heaping teaspoonful 
 of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of white pepper, a 
 pint and a half of milk, one pint of cream, four table- 
 spoonfuls of sherry. 
 
 Pare the potatoes, and put them in a stew-pan with 
 enough boiling water to cover them. Boil for half an 
 hour. When the potatoes are put on to boil, put the 
 celery, onion, and a pint of milk on to boil in the double- 
 boiler. Mix the half-pint of cold milk with the flour, 
 and stir the mixture into the boiling milk. 
 
 Five minutes before the potatoes are done, put the 
 cream in a small saucepan, and place this on the fire in 
 a larger saucepan containing a little boiling water. 
 
 Drain all the water from the potatoes, and mash them 
 until they are smooth and light. Gradually add the 
 boiling milk and vegetables, beating constantly. Now 
 add the salt and pepper, and. strain the mixture into 
 the double-boiler, rubbing as much as possible through 
 the strainer. Place over the fire, and after adding the 
 butter, cook for five minutes. Now add the hot cream, 
 and turn the soup into the tureen at once. Stir in the 
 sherry, and serve immediately. 
 
 The wine may be omitted. 
 
 * Corn Soup. 
 
 Use one can of corn, one quart and two gills of milk, 
 three table-spoonfuls of butter, two of flour, one gen- 
 
158 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 erous teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, one table-spoonful of minced onion, and the 
 yolks of two eggs. 
 
 Put the corn into a wooden bowl or chopping-tray, and 
 mash it as fine as possible. Now put it in the double- 
 boiler, with one quart of milk, and cook for fifteen 
 minutes. 
 
 Put the butter and onion in a small frying-pan, and 
 cook slowly for ten minutes. Now add the flour, and 
 cook until the mixture is frothy, being careful not to 
 brown. Stir this into the corn and milk. Now add the 
 salt and pepper, and cook for ten minutes longer. At 
 the end of this time rub the soup through a strainer, and 
 return to the fire. 
 
 Beat the yolks of the eggs well, and add to them the 
 half -pint of cold milk. Stir this mixture into the soup, 
 and cook for one minute, stirring all the while. 
 
 Chestnut Soup. 
 
 Use fifty French chestnuts, two quarts of stock, one 
 pint of stale bread, free of crust, one pint of milk or 
 cream, a slight grating of nutmeg, one table-spoonful of 
 butter, one of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
 Blanch the chestnuts, and then boil them for half an 
 hour in plenty of water. Drain off the water, and pound 
 the chestnuts in a mortar until a fine meal is produced. 
 To this gradually add one quart of the stock, pounding 
 all the while. Bub this mixture through a fine sieve. 
 Now put the strained mixture and all the other ingre- 
 dients, except the butter and milk, in a stew-pan, and 
 place on the fire. Cook gently for two hours. At the 
 end of that time take from the fire, and rub through a 
 fine sieve. Add the butter and milk, and return to the 
 fire. Heat to the boiling-point, stirring constantly. 
 Taste, to see if seasoned enough. Possibly it may be 
 well to add some salt and pepper. Serve at once. 
 
SOUPS. 159 
 
 * Fish Chowder. 
 
 Almost any kind of fish may be used for a chowder, 
 but nothing is quite equal to cod or haddock when either 
 may be had fresh. White fish is always preferable to 
 any dark fish. For a chowder for six persons use a fish 
 weighing four pounds, a quart of pared and thin-sliced 
 potatoes, a quarter of a pound of salt pork, two good- 
 sized onions, half a dozen crackers (Boston butter crack- 
 ers are best, though any kind of plain crackers will do), 
 two quarts of water, one pint of milk, one table-spoonful 
 of flour, and salt and pepper to suit the taste, perhaps 
 four teaspoonfuls of salt and half a teaspoonful of 
 pepper. 
 
 Put the potatoes into a large stew-pan with one quart 
 of the cold water, and boil for ten minutes. After 
 freeing the fish of skin and bones, cut it into small 
 pieces. Spread these upon a platter, and dredge them 
 with salt and pepper. Cut the pork into bits, and cook 
 in a frying-pan until brown ; then add the onion, sliced 
 very thin, and fry slowly until it turns light brown. 
 Spread the pork and onion on the fish, and cover until 
 ready for use. Stir the flour into the fat remaining in 
 the frying-pan, and cook until smooth and frothy ; then 
 gradually add the milk, and boil up once. 
 
 By this time the potatoes will probably have boiled 
 ten minutes. If not, wait until they are cooked, and 
 then add the fish, pork, and onion to them. Add, also, 
 the second quart of water, boiling hot, and cook for 
 three minutes; then turn the thickened milk from the 
 frying-pan into the stew-pan. Split the crackers, and 
 put them into a tureen. Let the chowder boil up once, 
 and after satisfying yourself that it is sufficiently sea- 
 soned, turn it into the tureen. 
 
 In case it be inconvenient to get milk for the chowder, 
 use an extra, but scant, pint of water. If one choose, 
 the potatoes, fish, onion, and pork all may be prepared 
 
160 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 some time in advance of the cooking, which, in that case, 
 will take only about twenty minutes. The potatoes 
 must be covered with cold water, and the fish be kept in 
 a cold place until the time for cooking. 
 
 *Clam Chowder. 
 
 For six persons use one quart of clams or thirty of 
 good size, one pint and a half of thin-sliced potatoes, 
 three pints of water, one pint of milk, one large onion, 
 three ounces of fat salt pork, two table-spoonfuls of flour, 
 one table-spoonful and a half of salt, half a teaspoonful 
 of pepper, and six Boston crackers. 
 
 Wash the clams in the cold water, and turn both water 
 and clams into a colander that has been placed over a 
 bowl. Now cut the soft parts of the clams from the hard, 
 and put them away in a cold place. Chop the hard parts 
 rather fine, and put them in a stew-pan. Strain through 
 a napkin the water in which the clams were washed, and 
 add it to the chopped parts. Cover the stew-pan, and 
 cook slowly for half an hour. 
 
 Now cut the pork in thin slices, and fry slowly for ten 
 minutes ; then add the onion, cut fine, and cook for ten 
 minutes longer, stirring frequently, that it may not 
 burn. 
 
 When the onions have been cooked for ten minutes, 
 take them, and also the pork, from the pan, and add both 
 to the chopped clams and water. Cook for ten minutes. 
 Into the fat remaining in the pan put the flour, and stir 
 until smooth and frothy. Add this mixture also to the 
 clain broth. Now put the sliced potatoes into the soup- 
 pot, and sprinkle in the salt and pepper. Strain over 
 the chowder the liquor in which the clams and other 
 ingredients were cooked, and place the kettle on the 
 fire. Cook for twenty minutes. 
 
 Split the crackers, and soak them in the cold milk for 
 one minute. Now add the soft .parts of the clams and 
 
SOUPS. 161 
 
 the crackers and milk to the contents of the soup-pot. 
 Let all boil up once, and serve. 
 
 The milk may be omitted, and one pint of strained 
 tomatoes be substituted for it. In this case add the 
 tomatoes when the broth and potatoes have been cooking 
 for ten minutes, and cook twenty minutes longer. Soak 
 the crackers in water for half a minute ; then drain 
 them well, and add them, together with the soft parts 
 of the clams, to the chowder. Cook for five minutes 
 longer. 
 
 * Cut the black heads from a quart of clams, and boil 
 them gently in three pints of water for twenty minutes. 
 Cut a quarter of a pound of salt pork into slices, and fry 
 until brown and crisp ; then add a large onion, cut into 
 slices, and cook slowly for ten minutes. Put a quart of 
 pared and sliced' raw potatoes into a soup-kettle, and 
 after placing a strainer over them, pour the onion and 
 pork into the strainer ; then pour in the water in which 
 the black parts of the clams were cooked. Remove the 
 strainer, with the pork and onion, which are of no 
 further use. Heat the mixture in the kettle to the boil- 
 ing-point, and add three table-spoonfuls of flour, mixed 
 with a cupful of cold water. After boiling gently for 
 twenty minutes, add a quart of milk that has boiled up 
 once, a table-spoonful of butter, eight soft crackers, the 
 soft parts of the clams, and salt and pepper to suit the 
 taste. Boil up the chowder once, and serve. 
 
 In cooking clams in any manner, remember that they 
 are toughened by long cooking. 
 
 * Danbury Clam Chowder. 
 
 Use for six persons one quart of clams, one pint of 
 canned tomatoes (or one quart of fresh tomatoes), one 
 quart of sliced potatoes, one pint of sliced onions, one 
 pint of water, half a teaspoonful each of powdered 
 
 11 
 
162 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 thyme, summer savory, and sweet-marjoram, half a tea- 
 spoonful of celery seeds (or, when it is convenient to get 
 fresh celery, use half a pint of it, chopped fine), one- 
 quarter of a pound of salt pork, one teaspoonful of 
 pepper, and three teaspoonfuls of salt. 
 
 Place a colander in a basin, and turn the clams into it. 
 Now pour the water over the clams, stirring well with 
 a spoon in order to make the washing a thorough one. 
 Save the clam liquor and water that fall into the basin. 
 Chop the clams rather fine, and put them in a cool place 
 until the time for cooking. 
 
 Cut the pork in thin slices, and fry slowly for ten 
 minutes. Add the sliced onion to the pork, and cook on 
 a hotter part of the stove for ten minutes, stirring fre- 
 quently. The onions should be tender, but not browned, 
 at the end of the ten minutes. Turn the pork and onions 
 jnto a stew-pan, and add to them the clam juice and water, 
 the potatoes, tomatoes, and the celery, if that is to be 
 used. Cook for thirty minutes ; then add the seasoning 
 and chopped clams, and cook ten minutes longer. Taste, 
 to be sure that there is seasoning enough; and if no 
 seasoning be required, serve the chowder. 
 
 This is a very savory dish. When it is served in a 
 dinner, it is well to have the meat or fish in the next 
 course simple and light. 
 
 *Clam Soup. 
 
 These are the ingredients : a quart of clams, a quart 
 of milk, a pint of water, three table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 three of flour, four of cracker crumbs, and small quan- 
 tities of salt and pepper, for seasoning. Separate the 
 heads from the clams, and put them on to simmer for 
 half an hour in the pint of water. Chop the soft part of 
 the clams, and put aside temporarily. Bub the butter 
 and flour together, and stir in the water in which the 
 heads of the clams are boiling ; then add the milk, salt, 
 and pepper, and after allowing the soup to boil up once, 
 
SOUPS. 163 
 
 strain it upon the chopped clams. Keturn it to the fire, 
 and boil for three minutes ; and after adding the cracker 
 crumbs, serve. 
 
 Wadsworth Clam Soup. 
 
 Use twenty-five clams, three pints of cold water, one 
 table-spoonful of butter, one of flour, half a pint of 
 cream, half a pint of milk, the yolks of four eggs, one- 
 fourth of a teaspoonful of white pepper, and about a 
 teaspoonful and a half of salt. 
 
 Wash the clams, and then chop them. Put them in a 
 stew-pan with the cold water, and let them simmer for 
 three hours. At the end of that time rub the flour and 
 butter together, and stir the mixture into the boiling 
 clams. Cook for five minutes. Put the milk on to heat 
 in the double-boiler. Strain the clam liquor into the 
 milk, and add the salt and pepper. Beat the yolks of 
 the eggs well, and add the cold cream to them. Stir this 
 into the mixture in the double-boiler, and cook for two 
 minutes, stirring all the while. Serve at once. 
 
 Cream of Clams. 
 
 Use about fifty large, soft clams, half a cupful of 
 butter, three pints of milk, one pint of cream, four table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, one slice of onion, a slight grating of 
 nutmeg, and salt and pepper to suit the taste. 
 
 After washing the clams, put them into a stew-pan, 
 covering it closely, and simmer for three minutes ; then 
 strain off the liquor and put it aside. Pound the clams 
 in a mortar or a wooden bowl, and rub through a sieve 
 as much of the mass as possible. Add to it the liquor. 
 Put the milk and onion on the stove in a double- 
 boiler. Rub the butter and flour to a cream, and add 
 four table-spoonfuls of the hot milk. Stir this mixture 
 into the boiling milk, and after skimming out the onion, 
 add the nutmeg, salt, "and pepper. Cook for five min- 
 
164 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 utes ; then add the pint of cream and the sifted clams 
 and clam liquor, and cook five minutes more. Serve 
 without delay. 
 
 Bisque of Clams. 
 
 Chop a quart of clams rather fine, and putting them 
 into the soup-pot with a quart of chicken stock, simmer 
 for an hour. Cut an onion fine, and put it into a small 
 frying-pan with three table-spoonfuls of butter. Cook 
 slowly for a quarter of an hour, being careful not to 
 brown ; then draw the onion to the side of the pan, and 
 after pressing out all the butter, put the onion into the 
 soup-pot with the clams. Put two table-spoonfuls of 
 flour into the butter remaining in the small frying-pan, 
 and stir until smooth and frothy ; then stir this mixture 
 into the soup. Add a bay leaf, a sprig of parsley, a 
 sprig of thyme, a blade of mace, a table-spoonful of salt, 
 and a quarter of a teaspoonful of white pepper. Simmer 
 for ten minutes ; then remove the herbs and spice, and 
 rub the soup through a puree sieve. Return to the soup- 
 pot, and heat to the boiling-point. Add a pint of cream ; 
 and when the bisque has been once again heated to the 
 boiling-point, put it back until serving-time. Beat the 
 yolks of four eggs thoroughly, and add a pint of cold 
 cream to them. Draw the soup forward, and let it boil. 
 Stir the new mixture into it, and cook for two minutes, 
 stirring all the while. Taste, to be sure that there is 
 enough seasoning ; and if there be not enough, add salt 
 and pepper. Serve immediately. 
 
 This soup must not boil after the yolks of the eggs 
 are added. Toasted crackers or toasted bread may be 
 served with it, but it is so delicate that the accompani- 
 ments should be prepared very carefully, or omitted. 
 
 Crab-and-Tomato Bisque. 
 
 Use for this soup one quart of milk, one pint of 
 cooked and strained tomatoes, half a pint of crab meat, 
 
SOUPS. 165 
 
 two table-spoonfuls of flour, two of butter, one teaspoon- 
 ful and a half of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and a 
 scant half-teaspoonful of soda. 
 
 Put the milk, except half a cupful, on the stove in a 
 double-boiler. Mix the cold milk with the flour, and 
 stir into the boiling milk. Cook for ten minutes. 
 
 Put the tomatoes on to cook in a saucepan. When 
 they have been boiling for five minutes, stir in the soda ; 
 and continue stirring until there is no froth on the vege- 
 table. Strain the tomatoes, and add to them the butter, 
 salt, and pepper. Add the crab meat to the mixture 
 of milk and flour, and after cooking for three minutes, 
 stir the contents of the double-boiler into the stew-pan. 
 Serve at once. 
 
 When it is inconvenient to use fresh crab meat, 
 canned meat may be taken instead. 
 
 Crab Bisque. 
 
 * 
 
 For eight persons use eighteen hard-shell crabs, one 
 quart of chicken or veal stock, one quart of cream, one 
 pint of stale bread, free of crust, two table-spoonfuls of 
 butter, one of flour, one small slice of carrot, one large 
 slice of onion, two bay leaves, one stalk of celery, a 
 sprig of parsley, a bit of mace, a slight grating of 
 nutmeg, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of white pepper, 
 one-tenth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, and three tea- 
 spoonfuls of salt. 
 
 Put half of the meat of the crabs and all of the claws 
 into a stew-pan. Add the spice, vegetables, herbs, and 
 half the stock, and place the pan where its contents will 
 simmer gently for forty minutes. Ten minutes later 
 put the bread and the remaining stock into another 
 stew-pan, and set the pan where its contents will simmer 
 gently for thirty minutes. 
 
 When the first mixture has cooked for the proper 
 period, strain it over that in the second stew-pan. Mix 
 
166 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 all these ingredients thoroughly, and rub through a tine 
 sieve. Return to the fire, and add the butter and flour, 
 rubbed together. Cook five minutes longer; then add 
 the cream, heated in a double-boiler, the remainder of 
 the crab meat, and the salt and pepper. Let the soup 
 boil up once, and serve without delay. If one choose, a 
 table-spoonful of brandy and three of sherry may be 
 added to the bisque after it is taken from the stove. 
 
 A table-spoonful of lobster coral and the shells of two 
 crabs may be pounded with a table-spoonful of butter, 
 and cooked with the crabs to give the bisque a fine 
 color. 
 
 Lobster Bisque. 
 
 For this soup there will be required a lobster weigh- 
 ing five pounds, one pint and a half of chicken stock, 
 one quart of cream, one scant pint of stale bread, free of 
 crust, one table-spoonful of salt, one-fourth of a tea- 
 spoonful of white pepper, one-tenth of a teaspoonful of 
 cayenne, one bay leaf, one sprig of parsley, one blade of 
 celery, a large slice of onion, a small piece of whole 
 mace, a slight grating of nutmeg, three table-spoonfuls 
 of butter, and one of flour. 
 
 Remove the meat of the lobster from the shell. Cut 
 in cubes the tenderest part of the meat taken from the 
 claws, there should be about half a pint, and put 
 away until serving-time. Pound the remainder to paste. 
 Now put one table-spoonful of butter, four of the small 
 claws, and the coral from the lobster into the mortar, 
 and pound until a smooth paste is formed. Hard pound- 
 ing will be required to accomplish this. Put the pounded 
 meat and the coral, shell, and butter in a stew-pan with 
 the herbs, mace, vegetables, and half the stock, and cook 
 for an hour, being careful that the mixture does not bub- 
 ble after it has once been heated to the boiling-point, 
 though it should still be kept on the stove, in a cooler 
 place, and kept heated almost to the boiling-point. 
 
SOUPS. 167 
 
 At the end of half an hour put the bread and the re- 
 maining stock in a stew-pan, and cook for twenty minutes, 
 keeping at the boiling-point all the while; then strain 
 the contents of the first stew-pan into the stew-pan re- 
 maining on the stove, pressing every particle of moisture 
 from the meat and seasoning. Eub this new mixture 
 through a French fine sieve ; then return it to the fire, 
 and add salt, pepper, and a slight grating of nutmeg. 
 Hub the remaining two table-spoonfuls of butter with 
 the flour until a smooth, light mixture is formed, and 
 stir this into the soup. Simmer for ten minutes. 
 
 When the butter and flour are added to the soup, put 
 the cream on the stove in the double-boiler. It will be 
 hot at the end of the ten minutes ; add it, with the cubes 
 of lobster, to the soup. Let the soup boil up once, and 
 serve it. 
 
 When making this bisque, if there be no coral in the 
 lobster, pound six of the small claws to powder, and mix 
 with one table-spoonful of butter. Use this to give the 
 soup a pink color. Or, in the absence of coral, the color 
 may be imparted by adding to the bisque, just as it is to 
 be. served, half a cupful of strained hot tomato. 
 
 Bisque of Oysters. 
 
 Use one quart of oysters, one quart of cream, one pint 
 of chicken stock, one scant pint of stale bread, free of 
 crust, one bay leaf, one sprig of parsley, one stalk of cel- 
 ery, one small slice of onion, a bit of mace, two table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, one of flour, the yolks of four eggs, 
 one-fourth of a teaspoonful of white pepper, one-tenth of 
 a teaspoonful of cayenne, and salt to suit the taste. 
 
 Chop the oysters, and put them in a stew-pan with the 
 seasonings, one-half the stock, and their own liquor. 
 Cook slowly for twenty minutes. 
 
 Put the bread and the remaining half-pint of stock in 
 another stew-pan, and cook slowly for twenty minutes. 
 
168 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Strain the liquor from the first stew-pan into the second 
 pan, pressing all the liquid from the oysters. Cook for 
 ten minutes longer. 
 
 Reserve half a cupful of the cream, and put the rest 
 on to heat in the double-boiler. Now rub the butter and 
 flour together until smooth and creamy. When the con- 
 tents of the stew-pan have been cooking for ten minutes, 
 rub them through a fine sieve and return them to the 
 stew-pan. Add the flour and butter to them, and place 
 on the fire. Stir the mixture until it boils; then add 
 the hot cream, and draw back to a cooler place. Now 
 beat the yolks of the eggs well, and add the cold cream 
 to them. Stir this mixture into the bisque, and cook for 
 one minute, stirring all the while. 
 
 When the cream is rich, use half cream and half milk. 
 The egg yolks may be omitted; the soup will, however, 
 be less rich without them. This is one of the most deli- 
 cious soups made. 
 
 * Oyster Soup. 
 
 For six or eight persons use one quart of oysters, one 
 quart of milk, one pint of cold water, three table-spoon- 
 fuls of flour, four of butter, half a teaspoonful of white 
 pepper, a piece of onion the size of half a dollar, a bit of 
 mace, and salt to suit the taste. 
 
 Put a colander over a bowl, and turn the oysters into it. 
 Now pour the water over the oysters, and stir with a 
 spoon until all the liquid has passed into the bowl. Put 
 the oysters into a bowl, and set away in a cold place. 
 Pour the water and oyster liquor into a stew-pan, and 
 heat slowly, being careful to avoid scorching. When the 
 liquid comes to the boiling-point, skim carefully, and 
 set back where it will keep hot. 
 
 At the same time that the oyster liquor and water are 
 put on to heat, put the onion, mace, and all the milk, 
 except half a pint, on the fire in the double-boiler. Mix 
 
SOUPS. 169 
 
 the cold milk with the flour, and stir it into the boiling 
 milk. Cook for fifteen minutes. 
 
 Now take out the onion and mace. Draw the oyster 
 water forward where it will boil up once j then add it to 
 the thickened milk. Now add the oysters, butter, salt, 
 and pepper. Boil up once, and serve immediately. 
 
170 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 FRESH fish requires careful handling and cooking. 
 Nothing is poorer or more unappetizing than a piece of 
 fish that is prepared carelessly ; but a dish of fresh fish, 
 well cooked, and served with a good sauce, is always 
 welcome. 
 
 Market men usually scale and draw the fish, but the 
 cook should always scrape around the head and tail, to 
 remove a few scales that will invariably be found there. 
 The blood and dark substance that are found on the 
 backbone must be scraped off. If the fish is to be 
 boiled or baked, leave the head and tail on, but cut the 
 fins from the body. A pair of fish scissors, kept for this 
 purpose, will be found a great convenience. Wash the 
 fish quickly in cold water, and then wipe it carefully. 
 It will then be ready to prepare for cooking. 
 
 Fish that live a good part of the time at the bottom of 
 lakes or rivers are likely to have a muddy taste, which 
 can be removed by soaking for several hours in salted 
 water. Fish that have a rather strong flavor, like sword- 
 fish and sturgeon, also are made more delicate by soak- 
 ing for a few hours in salted water. 
 
 In boiling fish the water should always be salted, and, 
 when possible, made acid with lemon juice. The acid 
 whitens the flakes of the fish and makes them firm, be- 
 sides giving the fish a good flavor. Lemon juice can be 
 used to advantage with any kind of fish, no matter 
 how cooked. 
 
 In boiling fish a few things must be remembered. 
 First, if the fish be put into cold water the juices will be 
 drawn out, thus impoverishing the fish. But many kinds 
 
FISH. | 171 
 
 of fish have such delicate skin that it contracts and 
 breaks as soon as it is plunged into hot water, thus mar- 
 ring the appearance of the dish. For these kinds of fish 
 the water should be of a temperature not higher than 
 150. A good plan is to put into the fish-kettle half as 
 much cold water as will be required ; then put the fish 
 in, and gradually add boiling water enough to cover. By 
 this method the skin will be made to contract slowly, 
 and it will not break. Mackerel, trout, striped bass, etc., 
 should be treated in this manner if they are to be served 
 with the skin on. Fish that have a thick, tough skin 
 can be put into water that is at the boiling-point, though 
 not bubbling. Halibut, sturgeon, or any fish that is not 
 to be served with the skin on is better for being put 
 into boiling water. 
 
 When boiling fish, the water should never be allowed 
 to do more than bubble. Rapid boiling breaks the fish, 
 thus making it unsightly. 
 
 Too much cooking makes the fibres dry and woolly; 
 but fish should be cooked enough to have the flakes 
 separate readily. 
 
 When baking fish, remember that constant basting is 
 essential to the success of the dish. Use plenty of salt 
 when basting. 
 
 When breading fish for frying, be very generous with 
 salt. 
 
 Fish that have extremely delicate flesh like white 
 fish should be cooked only in the simplest manner. 
 It is almost impossible to fillet a white fish, and indeed 
 it seems almost shameful to attempt to improve any- 
 thing so delicate and fine in itself. 
 
 The lighter the fish, the greater the variety of modes 
 by which it may be cooked. It also may be served more 
 frequently without one's becoming tired of it. For exam- 
 ple, at the Isles of Shoals visitors are offered broiled 
 scrod every day in the week, yet they do not weary of 
 the dish in a stay of months. At Nantucket broiled 
 
172 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 bluefish is served daily, and it is so delicious that its 
 appearance three times a day is at first hailed with 
 pleasure; but after a few weeks the appetite becomes 
 palled, because the fish is rich. It would be the same 
 with the freshest and most toothsome salmon and mack- 
 erel. A rich fish satiates much sooner than a lighter 
 and poorer kind, and for this reason it is advisable to 
 avoid having the richer varieties frequently. Of course, 
 the poorer kinds require more and richer sauces than 
 salmon, mackerel, or bluefish. White fish, like cod, had- 
 dock, cusk, halibut, and flounders, all are improved by 
 the addition of sauces made of milk, cream, or white 
 stock. 
 
 Serving Fish. 
 
 Long, narrow dishes are used for long, slender fish. 
 The fish may be slipped on to the warm dish; or a 
 napkin, folded the length and width of the fish, may be 
 placed on the dish and the fish be laid upon this. Only 
 boiled or fried fish is served on a napkin. 
 
 When the dish is large enough, a sauce is poured 
 around the fish (no napkin being used in that case), and 
 the head and tail may then be garnished with parsley. 
 
 When a sauce is poured around fish, it must be rather 
 thicker for a boiled fish than for any other kind. 
 
 Fillets of fish, when rolled, may be arranged in a 
 circle on the dish, and the sauce be poured in the centre ; 
 when flat, they may be heaped in a pyramid in the 
 centre of the dish, or may be arranged in a circle, one 
 fillet overlapping the other. The centre should then be 
 filled with a sauce or a garnish. 
 
 How to Fillet Fish. 
 
 There are two kinds of fish (the flat and the round) 
 that are used in preparing fillets. The flat fish, such as 
 flounder, turbot, chicken halibut, etc., have one large 
 flat bone which extends the entire length and breadth. 
 
FISH. 178 
 
 The fins are on both sides, from head to tail. In 
 the round fish, such as bass, cod, salmon, trout, etc., the 
 large bone does not extend the entire breadth, and the 
 fins are placed variously on the different kinds of fish. 
 In these fish there is always found a thin and fat piece 
 of flesh on each side, near the head, extending about 
 one-third the length of the body. This is called the 
 flank. Now, in most fish this flank is thin and the skin 
 delicate, so that the flank may easily be cut from the 
 fish, and when the fin bones are removed the fillets are 
 ready to be breaded and fried. 
 
 Let it now be supposed that 
 a round fish is to be filleted. In 
 order to do the work successfully 
 one should have a small sharp 
 knife, commonly called a boning- 
 knife; or a 
 sharp vegeta- 
 ble-knife will 
 answer. Lay 
 the fish flat on 
 a board that Drawing the Skin from a Fish, 
 
 has been placed 
 
 on a table. Cut off the flanks. Next cut through the 
 skin, beginning at the head and continuing down by the 
 fins on the back to the end of the tail ; then cut on 
 the other side from the tail up to where the flanks 
 were cut off. Begin to draw the skin from the fish, 
 starting at the head and drawing gently and firmly 
 toward the tail. It will almost always tear off smoothly. 
 Turn the fish over, and skin the other side in the 
 same manner. Cut the flesh from the bones, beginning 
 at the head, and working the knife between the bones 
 and the flesh from the head down to the tail and round 
 on the other side to the head. If the knife has been 
 kept close to the bone, the flesh will come off in one 
 piece, leaving the bone almost perfectly clean. Turn 
 
174 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 the fish over, and fillet the other side in the same 
 manner. You will now have two fillets, which, if large, 
 may each be divided into two or four smaller pieces. 
 
 Fillets of Fish. 
 
 Flat fish are skinned and filleted in much the same 
 manner. There is this difference : the skin is cut 
 all arpund near the fins, from head to tail (as shown by 
 the dotted lines in the cut below), and on both sides. 
 There are no flank pieces to cut off. A flat fish, no mat- 
 
 Flounder and Turban of Flounder. 
 
 ter how small, always gives four fillets, because it is so 
 broad that it is cut through the centre lengthwise. 
 
 Fillets are often cut from large fish like halibut and 
 salmon. When this is done the large slices are cut into 
 small strips about three or four inches long and two or 
 three wide. 
 
 Fillets may be served in the form in which they are 
 cut, or be rolled and fastened with small skewers (being 
 then called turbans), as shown in the last illustration. 
 
FISH. 175 
 
 Sturgeon. 
 
 Sturgeon is abundant in the markets from April to 
 September, and is therefore cheap. This fish is very 
 highly valued in European countries, but from various 
 causes it does not hold the same place in the estimation 
 of the people of the United States. It is a shark-like 
 fish, with strong fins, but no scales. The fat is yellow, 
 the flesh a pale red, and the flavor a little like meat. 
 The flank is thought to resemble pork, while the mus- 
 cular flesh of the back is thought to taste like veal. 
 This fish requires more cooking than the ordinary kinds, 
 and pork is employed in its preparation almost as often 
 as with veal. When sturgeon forms a part of a meal, 
 less meat will be required than if a lighter kind of fish 
 were used. A piece from a fish of medium size will be 
 found more delicate and tender than a cut from a 
 large sturgeon. 
 
 * Boiled Sturgeon. 
 
 Have a middle cut of sturgeon, weighing about four 
 pounds. Wash it in salted water, and then put it in a 
 new basin of salted water one table-spoonful of salt to 
 two quarts of water to soak for twenty minutes. Into 
 the fish-kettle put one onion, six cloves, one large slice 
 of carrot, three sprigs of parsley, three bay leaves, four 
 quarts of boiling water, four table-spoonfuls of vinegar, 
 and two of salt. Let this simmer for half an hour. 
 
 Now take the sturgeon from the salted water, and roll 
 the flanks inside. Pin a broad band of cotton cloth 
 around the piece of fish to keep the flanks in place. 
 Now put the fish into the kettle, and cook gently for one 
 hour. At the end of that time take it from the water, 
 and drain well. Take off the band of cloth, and slip the 
 fish on a warm dish. Serve with any good fish sauce, 
 like lobster, anchovy, egg, parsley, or oyster. 
 
 A pint of wine is sometimes added to the water in 
 which the sturgeon is boiled. 
 
176 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Baked Sturgeon. 
 
 Use four pounds of sturgeon, one quarter of a pound 
 of pork, one table-spoonful each of chopped carrot, turnip, 
 and onion, two table-spoonfuls of butter, two of lemon 
 juice, two of sherry, one table-spoonful of salt, half a 
 teaspoonful of white pepper, and flour for basting. 
 
 Wash the fish in cold water, and let it stand in clean 
 salted water for one hour. 
 
 Cut the pork in thin slices, and lay about one-third of 
 it on a tin sheet that has been placed in the dripping- 
 pan. Sprinkle the chopped vegetables over this pork. 
 
 Take the fish from the water, and wipe it dry. 
 Skewer the flanks into position, and then rub the lemon 
 juice and half the salt and pepper into the fish. Now 
 put the piece of fish on the vegetables, placing it on end, 
 so that it resembles a fillet of beef. Cover the top with 
 the remainder of the slices of pork. Now put it in 
 the oven, and cook for ten minutes without water in the 
 pan ; then add half a pint of boiling water. Five min- 
 utes later begin to baste in this manner : dip some of 
 the gravy from the pan, and pour it over the fish ; then 
 dredge with salt, pepper, and flour. Do this every 
 fifteen minutes while the fish is cooking. The water in 
 the pan must be renewed frequently. 
 
 When the fish has been cooking for one hour, lift the 
 pork from the top of the fish and drop it into the pan. 
 Now baste the fish with the wine, and spread one table- 
 spoonful of the butter over it ; then dredge rather 
 thickly with flour. Kepeat this in fifteen minutes. 
 Cook for a quarter of an hour longer, and then take 
 from the oven. The sturgeon should be a rich brown 
 color. Slip the fish on to a warm dish, and place where 
 it will keep warm while the sauce is being made. 
 
 To Make the Sauce. Take the tin sheet and the slices 
 of pork from the pan in which the fish was cooked. 
 Now add enough boiling water to make one pint of sauce, 
 
FISH. 177 
 
 and place the pan on the top of the range. Mix one 
 table-spoonful of flour with half a cupful of cold water. 
 Gradually add this to the boiling liquid, stirring all the 
 time until the mixture is about as thick as cream. Now 
 taste, to see if it is seasoned enough. Add more salt, if 
 any be needed. If any fat should float on top, skim it 
 off. Strain, and serve with the fish. 
 
 Sturgeon may be cut into steaks and broiled ; or be cut 
 into small cutlets and breaded and fried, the same as 
 other fish. 
 
 * Boiled Red Snapper. 
 
 The flesh of this fish is very firm, and is more suitable 
 for boiling and baking than for any other form of cook- 
 ing. Tastes differ as to whether or not the fins should 
 be cut off. If you decide to have them cut, let the 
 marketman do the work, as the bones of the fins are 
 large, sharp, and strong. 
 
 Have the fish opened only enough to admit of its 
 being drawn readily. See that all the scales are off, and 
 wash it quickly in cold water. Have enough boiling 
 water in the fish-kettle to cover the fish. Add two 
 table-spoonfuls of lemon juice, two of salt, and one of 
 vinegar to a gallon of water. Draw the kettle back 
 where the water will stop boiling, and add one pint of 
 cold water ; then lower the fish into it. Now push the 
 kettle forward where the water will boil. Watch care- 
 fully, and when it begins to boil, draw the kettle back 
 where the water will only bubble. Cook, counting from 
 this time, for half an hour, if the fish does not weigh 
 more than six pounds ; but if it be heavier, cook for ten 
 minutes longer. 
 
 Now lift the fish from the water, and drain well. Slip 
 on to a warm dish, and serve at once with either lobster, 
 anchovy, or Hollandaise sauce ; or indeed, any simple fish 
 sauce will answer. 
 
178 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Baked Red Snapper. 
 
 "For a red snapper weighing five pounds, use one pint 
 of oysters, half a cupful of powdered cracker crumbs, 
 half a teaspoonful of onion juice, half a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, four table-spoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful 
 of chopped parsley, and flour for dredging. 
 
 Chop the oysters very fine ; then add to them the 
 powdered cracker, one generous table-spoonful of butter, 
 one quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful 
 of salt, and the parsley. Mix all thoroughly, and let the 
 mixture stand until the fish is ready. Now cut the fins 
 from the fish, and see that there are no scales left on. 
 Wash quickly in cold water. 
 
 Kub one table-spoonful of the salt into the fish, and 
 then pack the stuffing into the vent. Fasten the open- 
 ing with steel skewers, or sew it together. 
 
 Have a flat tin sheet well buttered, and place it, 
 buttered side up, in a large dripping-pan. Lay the fish 
 on this, and dredge lightly with salt, pepper, and flour. 
 Pour half a pint of boiling water into the pan, and place 
 in a hot oven. 
 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan, and 
 place on the fire. When the butter becomes hot, add 
 the flour, and stir until it is brown. Now draw the pan 
 back, and gradually add one pint of cold water. Let 
 this boil for five minutes, and turn it into a small basin 
 and keep it hot on the back of the range. This is for 
 basting the fish. Begin at once, and use about one- 
 fourth of the sauce ; then dredge lightly with salt, 
 pepper, and flour. Baste again in ten minutes, and twice 
 more in the next half-hour. The water in the pan will 
 need renewing with every basting. It will take the fish 
 one hour to cook. Serve with a brown or Madeira 
 sauce. Any of the simpler sauces will answer, if more 
 convenient. 
 
FISH. 179 
 
 * Baked Mullet. 
 
 Mullet frequently has an earthy taste. If it be 
 cleaned, and then soaked in acidulated and salted water 
 for one hour, the taste will disappear. Use a table- 
 spoonful each of salt and vinegar to each quart of cold 
 water. Make a stuffing the same as for shad, and cook 
 in the same manner as baked shad. A mullet weighing 
 two pounds will require only* one-half the amount of 
 stuffing, and it will cook in thirty-five minutes. Serve 
 with any good sauce. 
 
 Mullet maybe split and broiled, the same as mackerel. 
 
 * Baked Shad. 
 
 After cutting the shad only enough to take out the roe, 
 and then removing the roe, wash the fish, and fill the 
 body with a dressing made by mixing thoroughly the 
 following-named ingredients : a cupful of cracker crumbs, 
 a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, 
 two table-spoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful of chopped 
 parsley, one table-spoonful of capers, one table-spoonful 
 of lemon juice, and two-thirds of a cupful of cold water. 
 After using this dressing, fasten the opening in the fish 
 with a skewer, and dredge generously with salt. Place 
 the shad on a tin sheet that will fit loosely in a large 
 dripping-pan, and after putting this sheet into the pan, 
 rub soft butter over the shad, and dredge thickly with 
 flour. Pour into the pan just enough boiling water to 
 cover the bottom, and then bake the fish in a hot oven for 
 three-quarters of an hour. Baste every ten minutes with 
 the gravy in the pan and a little butter, and dredge 
 lightly each time with salt, pepper, and flour. When the 
 fish is done, slip it upon a warm dish, and pour brown 
 sauce around it. Or, if you prefer, have the sauce in a 
 separate dish. Serve the roe on a small platter, giving a 
 portion to each person with the fish. Or, the roe may be 
 saved for a breakfast dish, This is the way to cook it : 
 
180 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Drop into boiling water, and cook gently for twenty 
 minutes ; then take from the fire, and drain. Butter a 
 tin plate, and lay the drained roe upon it. Dredge well 
 with salt and pepper, and spread soft butter over it; 
 then dredge thickly with flour. Cook in the oven for 
 half an hour, basting frequently with salt, pepper, flour, 
 butter, and water. 
 
 Brown sauce is made ijj this manner : Into a saucepan 
 put a pint of water, a slice of onion, a slice of carrot, a 
 sprig of parsley, a bay leaf, and a table-spoonful of beef 
 extract. Cook for five minutes ; then add two large 
 table-spoonfuls of arrowroot mixed with one-third of a 
 cupful of cold water. Season with salt and pepper, and 
 simmer for ten minutes ; then add a table-spoonful of 
 butter, and, as soon as it is melted, strain the sauce. A 
 pint of clear soup may be substituted for the water and 
 beef extract. 
 
 Sheep's-head, white-fish, bass, bluefish, haddock, etc., 
 all may be stuffed and baked the same as shad. 
 
 * Broiled Shad. 
 
 Have the shad split the entire length. Cut off the 
 fins, and scrape the fish carefully, to be sure that there 
 are no scales left on. Wash quickly in cold water, 
 and then wipe dry. Rub the bars of a double-broiler 
 lightly with butter, and then place the fish in it. Dredge 
 with salt, pepper, and flour. Place over a clear but not 
 fierce fire, having the inside turned to the fire at first. 
 Watch carefully, and turn frequently to prevent burning. 
 A large, thick shad will require twenty-five minutes' 
 cooking. On taking the broiler from the fire, let it rest 
 on a dish. Slip a knife between the bars and the fish, 
 and when one side is loosened, turn the broiler over, 
 and free the other side. Now raise the broiler with the 
 skin side of the fish up. Place a warm platter upside 
 down over this, and turn broiler and dish simultaneously. 
 
FISH. 181 
 
 Lift the broiler, and the fish will be found on the centre 
 of the dish, ready for the sauce, which may be simply 
 butter; with salt and pepper, or maitre d'hotel butter. 
 Fish requires a good deal of butter ; use four table- 
 spoonfuls for a large one. 
 
 Shad is sometimes served with a cream or Bechamel 
 sauce. 
 
 White-fish, blue fish, young cod or haddock, and, in 
 fact, all fish that are broiled, may be treated in this 
 manner. 
 
 A very dry fish is improved by a dressing of melted 
 butter or salad oil before being broiled. 
 
 * Boiled Halibut. 
 
 Pour into a shallow pan boiling water to the depth of 
 one-third of an inch, and in it lay a five-pound piece of 
 halibut, the black skin down. In two minutes remove 
 the fish from the wafer, and scrape the black substance 
 from the skin. Now wash the fish in cold water, and 
 after laying it on a plate, set the plate in a stew-pan and 
 cover with boiling water. Add a table-spoonful of vine- 
 gar, a table-spoonful of salt, two slices of carrot, and a 
 small onion. Boil gently for forty minutes, and serve 
 with any light fish sauce. 
 
 * Baked Halibut. 
 
 Use a piece of halibut weighing about four pounds. 
 Into a shallow pan put about a third of an inch of boil- 
 ing water, and lay the fish in it, black-skin side down. 
 In about two minutes, remove from the water, and 
 scrape off all the black part of the skin; then wash 
 quickly in cold water. Place a tin sheet in a dripping- 
 pan, and lay the fish upon it. Score the fish about half 
 an inch deep, and put long, narrow strips of salt pork 
 into each cut. Dredge well with salt, pepper, and flour. 
 Cover the bottom of the pan with boiling water, and 
 
182 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 bake the fish in a very hot oven for one hour. Baste 
 every quarter of an hour with the gravy in the pan and 
 with salt, pepper, and flour ; but the last time omit the 
 gravy, and use two table-spoonfuls of melted butter and 
 a considerable quantity of flour. This will insure a rich 
 crust. If you wish a high flavor, put a bay leaf, a sprig 
 of parsley, half an onion, and two slices of carrot into 
 the dripping-pan before you begin the cooking. A clove 
 of garlic may be substituted for the onion, if you prefer. 
 Either tomato, Bechamel, shrimp, or oyster sauce is a 
 good accompaniment. 
 
 Baked Chicken Halibut 
 
 The fish should weigh about five pounds. After cut- 
 ting off the fins, wash it in cold water, and then dredge 
 lightly with salt and pepper. Make a dressing of a cup- 
 ful of cracker crumbs, a heaping table-spoonful of butter, 
 a teaspoonful of chopped green .parsley, half a table- 
 spoonful of salt, a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, a 
 teaspoonful of onion juice (obtained by peeling and grat- 
 ing an onion), and three-quarters of a cupful of cold water. 
 Mix together all the dry ingredients, and then add the 
 water. Stuff the halibut with this dressing, and sew up 
 the opening. Have a sheet of tin that will fit loosely 
 into a large baking-pan. Butter it well, and lay the 
 fish upon it. Spread soft butter over the fish, and 
 cover it with a large sheet of buttered paper. After 
 pouring about a cupful of hot water into the pan, place 
 it in the oven for an hour, basting the halibut four times 
 during the cooking with a mixture of a quarter of a 
 cupful of butter, a table-spoonful of salt, and half a cupful 
 of hot water. When the hour has passed, remove the 
 buttered paper, and, after slipping a large fork under 
 the sheet of tin, lift the fish from the pan on the tin. 
 Slide it carefully off upon a platter, and pour Hollan- 
 daise or Bechamel yellow sauce around it. Garnish with 
 parsley and lemons. 
 
FISH. 183 
 
 * Halibut a la Creole. 
 
 Of fish, take a slice weighing about four pounds, and 
 use also a pint of stewed or canned tomatoes, a cupful 
 of water, a slice of onion, two table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 three cloves, and one table-spoonful of flour. 
 
 Put the tomato, water, cloves, and onion on to boil. 
 Mix the butter and flour, and stir into the sauce when it 
 boils. Add a teaspoonful of salt and a quarter of a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper ; and after cooking for ten minutes, 
 rub through a strainer into a bowl. Pour, into a deep 
 plate boiling water to the depth of half an inch, and lay 
 the fish in it for half a minute, black-skin side down. 
 Remove it from the water, and the black substance can 
 easily be scraped off. Wash the halibut in cold water, 
 and season it well with salt and pepper. Place a tin 
 sheet in a small, shallow pan, and lay the fish on it. 
 If you have no sheet, lay the fish on the bottom of the 
 pan ; but this should be avoided if possible, because the 
 fish cannot easily be removed whole after it has been 
 cooked. Pour into the pan about half of the tomato 
 sauce, and then set in a hot oven. Cook the fish for 
 three-quarters of an hour, basting three times with the 
 remainder of the tomato sauce. At serving-time slide 
 the halibut from the tin sheet upon a hot dish, and pour 
 over it the sauce remaining in the pan. Serve hot. 
 
 * Broiled Halibut. 
 
 The slices of halibut should be nearly an inch thick. 
 After seasoning slightly with salt and pepper, spreading 
 very lightly with soft butter, and dredging with flour, 
 broil for twelve minutes. Serve on a hot dish, with maitre 
 d'hotel butter spread on it. This dressing is made by 
 beating together four table-spoonfuls of butter, one of 
 lemon juice, one of chopped green parsley, half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
184 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 The sauce is capital for any kind of broiled or fried fish 
 or meat. 
 
 Carbonado of Halibut or White Fish. 
 
 The materials required are : two pounds of halibut, 
 two eggs, almost a pint of dried bread-crumbs, four 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful of onion juice, 
 two teaspoonfuls of salt, and one-fourth of a teaspoonful 
 of pepper. 
 
 Skin the halibut, and cut it into pieces about three 
 inches square and half an inch thick. Put the butter, 
 salt, pepper, and onion juice in a deep plate, and set the 
 plate on the back part of the range, to melt the butter. 
 
 Beat the eggs in another plate until light, and put a 
 part of the crumbs in a third plate. Dip the pieces of 
 fish in melted butter, then in the egg, and finally in the 
 crumbs. Now lay them in a large dripping-pan that has 
 been buttered on the bottom. When all have been 
 properly treated, sprinkle the remainder of the egg and 
 butter over the carbonades. Cook in a hot oven for 
 twelve minutes, and serve with Hollandaise, Tartar, or 
 inaltre d'hotel sauce. 
 
 Any fish from which solid slices of flesh can be cut 
 may be used for a carbonade. 
 
 Baked Fillets of Halibut, Cream Sauce. 
 
 Have three pounds of fresh halibut cut into thin 
 slices. Remove the skin from the slices, and then cut 
 them into narrow strips. Cut a large onion into thin 
 slices, and spread over the fish. Now sprinkle with the 
 juice of half a lemon, and season slightly with salt and 
 pepper. Cover the dish closely, and let it stand for an 
 hour ; then remove the onion. 
 
 Have half a cupful of butter washed free of salt. Put 
 half of this quantity into a frying-pan, and when it has 
 become hot, put in enough fish to cover the bottom of 
 
FISH. 185 
 
 the pan. Cook for three minutes on one side, and then 
 turn and cook for as many minutes on the other, 
 being careful when turning not to break the pieces. 
 Take up the fish, and place it in a gratin dish or a stone- 
 china platter, arranging it neatly on the sides of the 
 dish, and leaving an open space in the centre. When 
 all the fish has been fried, cover it with a sauce made as 
 follows : 
 
 Rub together in a small saucepan four table-spoonfuls 
 of butter and three of flour. Add to this mixture a 
 slice of onion, a slice of carrot, a slight grating of nut- 
 meg, a bay leaf, a sprig of parsley, and one cupful and a 
 half of white stock (water in which a fowl has been 
 boiled will do). Simmer gently for thirty minutes; 
 then add a cupful of cream, and salt and pepper to suit 
 the taste. Boil up once, and strain. 
 
 Of course, when the sauce is poured over the fish, 
 some of it will flow into the centre of the dish ; but that 
 is not an objection. Place the dish of fish and sauce in 
 the oven for twelve minutes. 
 
 Boil a quart of potato balls in clear water for twelve 
 minutes ; then drain off the water, and season the balls 
 with salt, pepper, and butter. When the fish is taken 
 from the oven, pour the balls into the centre of the dish, 
 and sprinkle a table-spoonful of chopped parsley over 
 them. Garnish the sides of the dish with sprigs of 
 parsley. Serve without delay. 
 
 Fillets of Halibut a la Poulette. 
 
 This is a nice Lenten dish. It requires three pounds 
 of halibut, half a cupful of butter, two large onions, the 
 juice of a lemon, three hard-boiled eggs, and small 
 quantities of flour, salt, and pepper. 
 
 After freeing the fish of skin and bones, cut it into 
 slices about half an inch thick, and cut these into strips 
 about three inches long and two wide. Sprinkle with 
 lemon juice, salt, and pepper, and lay a thin slice of 
 
186 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 onion upon each strip. Cover the fish with a large dish, 
 and put away for half an hour. At the end of that time 
 melt the butter in a soup-plate, and after removing the 
 onion from the fish, dip the strips into the butter. Eoll 
 them up, and pin each piece with a wooden toothpick ; 
 then dip them into the butter once more, and after 
 placing them in a tin pan, dredge thickly with flour. 
 Bake for twenty minutes in a hot oven. Meanwhile cut 
 the whites of the eggs into rings, and grate the yolks 
 through a sieve. When the fish is cooked, spread the 
 rolls upon a hot dish, remove the little skewers, and 
 pour white sauce into the dish. Sprinkle the grated 
 yolks over the fish, and use the whites for a garnish. 
 
 Halibut au Gratin. 
 
 Use a pint of cooked halibut, free of skin and bones, a 
 cupful and a half of cream or milk, one table-spoonful of 
 flour, two of butter, one-fourth of a teaspoon ful of 
 pepper, one teaspoonful and a half of salt, half a tea- 
 spoonful of onion juice, and eight table-spoonfuls of 
 grated bread crumbs. 
 
 Break the fish into flakes with a fork, and sprinkle 
 over it half of the pepper and one teaspoonful of the 
 salt. Mix lightly with the fork. Put the milk or cream 
 in a small saucepan, and heat it to the boiling-point. Mean- 
 while beat together the flour and one table-spoonful of 
 the butter, and stir into the boiling milk. Stir for one 
 minute ; then add the onion juice and pepper. Take 
 from the fire, and put about half a spoonful of the sauce 
 into each of six escalop shells. Now put in a thin layer 
 of fish and another layer of sauce; 
 then a second layer of fish and still 
 another one of sauce. Finally sprinkle 
 Halibut in au Es- the grated bread crumbs over each 
 calop Shell. dish> Melt the second table-spoonful 
 
 of butter, and sprinkle it over the crumbs. Place the 
 escalop shells in a large pan, and put into a rather hot 
 
FISH. 187 
 
 oven for fifteen minutes. Serve immediately at the end 
 of that time. 
 
 Halibut a la Maltre d'H6tel. 
 
 Use two slices of halibut weighing about three pounds, 
 the juice of one lemon, one table-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley, half a teaspoonful of pepper, one table-spoonful 
 of salt, two table-spoonfuls of butter, one of flour, and 
 one pint of white stock or water. 
 
 Lay the slices of halibut in a flat dish, and sprinkle 
 them on one side with one-half of the salt, pepper, 
 lemon juice, and parsley. Turn the slices over, and 
 sprinkle with the remaining seasoning. Let the fish 
 stand in a cold place for half an hour. At the end of 
 that time mix the flour and butter in a small saucepan. 
 Pour on this mixture a pint of boiling water. Put the 
 saucepan on the fire, and stir the contents until they 
 boil. 
 
 Butter a flat tin sheet and lay it, buttered side up, in 
 a large dripping-pan. Put the slices of halibut on this 
 sheet, and then cover them with the thickened water. 
 Pat the pan in a hot oven, and cook for twenty minutes, 
 basting three times with the gravy in the pan. 
 
 When the fish is done, and the pan has been taken 
 from the oven, lift the tin sheet from the pan and care- 
 fully slide the fish into a warm platter. Garnish with 
 parsley. Serve Hollandaise sauce in a separate dish. 
 
 Breaded Turbans of Flounder. 
 
 Fillet three flounders. Season the fillets with half a 
 teaspoonful of pepper and three teaspoonfuls of salt. 
 Now dip them into four table-spoonfuls of melted butter ; 
 then roll them up, and fasten with wooden toothpicks. 
 Have two beaten eggs in a deep plate. Put one turban 
 at a time on the plate, and cover every part with the egg, 
 afterward rolling it in bread crumbs. When all are 
 
188 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 breaded, arrange them in the frying-basket, but do not 
 crowd them. Fry in fat for seven minutes. Drain them, 
 and after taking out the skewers, arrange the turbans in 
 a circle on a warm dish. Fill the centre of the circle 
 with parsley, and serve at once. Serve Tartar or re- 
 inoulade sauce in a separate dish. 
 
 Any kind of delicate fish may be filleted and cooked 
 in this manner. Two table-spoonfuls of lemon juice and 
 a table-spoonful of chopped parsley may be mixed with 
 the melted butter. 
 
 Turbans of Flounder with Anchovies. 
 
 For twelve turbans use three small flounders, each 
 weighing about a pound and a half, half a cupful of 
 butter, three teaspoonfuls of salt, half a teaspoonful oi 
 pepper, about three table-spoonfuls of flour, besides the 
 materials mentioned in the rule for anchovy force- 
 meat in the chapter on " Garnishes." 
 
 Fillet the flounders as already directed, and season the 
 fish with the salt and pepper. Spread the force-meat on 
 the fillets ; then roll up, and fasten with a wooden tooth- 
 pick, as illustrated on page 174. Melt the butter in a 
 deep plate. Roll the turbans in the butter and then in 
 the flour, and place them in a shallow pan. Bake in a 
 hot oven for twenty minutes. Arrange in a circle on a 
 hot dish, and fill the centre with potato balls saute". 
 Pour anchovy sauce around the fish, and serve very hot. 
 
 Turbans of Fish with Oysters. 
 
 Use any kind of small fish from which long, thin fillets 
 can be obtained. Make an oyster force-meat, and pro- 
 ceed as for turbans of flounder. Serve with a cream sauce 
 or Bechamel yellow sauce. The centre may be garnished 
 with quenelles of any kind of fish. A part of the oyster 
 force-meat may be used for this purpose. 
 
FISH. 189 
 
 Baked Fillets of Flounder, in Wine. 
 
 Allow for eight persons four pounds of flounders, four 
 table-spoonfuls of sherry, half a cupful of butter, one 
 table-spoonful of onion juice, one of lemon juice, a level 
 table-spoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
 Skin and bone the fish, and cut it into small fillets. 
 Put the butter and other ingredients into a soup-plate, 
 and set this plate on the back part of the range where 
 the butter will melt gradually. As soon as it becomes 
 melted dip the fillets into the dish, one at a time, being 
 careful to cover all parts with the mixture. Lay the fish 
 in a clean, smooth baking-pan, and cook in a hot oven for 
 ten minutes, basting with what remains of the butter and 
 seasoning. When the fish is done, slip a broad knife- 
 blade under each fillet, and transfer it gently to a hot 
 platter. Pour all the gravy that remains into three gills 
 of white sauce, and pour this sauce over the fish. Serve 
 very hot. 
 
 White Sauce. To make three gills of sauce, use two 
 gills of chicken stock, one gill of cream, two table-spoon- 
 fuls of butter, one generous table-spoonful of flour, one 
 small slice of onion, a thin slice of carrot, a bay leaf, a 
 slight grating of nutmeg, a sprig of parsley, a level tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and one-fourth of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper. 
 
 First mix the butter and flour. Add all the other 
 ingredients mentioned above except the cream, and then 
 place the dish over the fire, and stir the mixture until 
 it begins to boil. Set it back where it will simmer for 
 twenty minutes ; then add the cream, and let the sauce 
 boil up once. Strain it, and add the gravy from the fish- 
 pan. 
 
 Fillets of Flounder au Gratin. 
 
 Use one large flounder or two small ones j at any 
 rate, have five pounds before cutting. With a small, 
 
190 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 sharp-pointed vegetable-knife, cut through the skin all 
 round the fish, lengthwise, first on one side and then on 
 the other. Now loosen the skin at the head, and draw it 
 gently from the flesh. You will be obliged to use the 
 knife occasionally. When one side has been skinned, 
 turn the fish and skin the other. Next slip the knife 
 between the flesh and bone, and remove all the flesh in 
 two pieces. Cut into small pieces, perhaps four inches 
 long and three wide. Spread a table-spoonful of soft 
 butter over a gratin dish, and lay these pieces or fillets in 
 the dish. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and keep in a 
 cool place until the time for cooking. 
 
 Make a pint of sauce in the following manner: Mix 
 one table-spoonful of flour and three of butter, and add 
 to the mixture a slice of onion, a bay leaf, a pint of 
 chicken stock, and salt and pepper to suit your taste. 
 Simmer gently for twenty minutes ; then add a table- 
 spoonful of lemon juice. 
 
 Strain the sauce, and pour it over the fish. Have 
 ready a teacupful of fine dried breadcrumbs. Season 
 them lightly with salt and pepper, and sprinkle them 
 over the sauce and fish. Put the dish into a hot oven, 
 and bake for twenty minutes ; then serve immediately in 
 the same dish. 
 
 Fried Flounder. 
 
 Scrape the flounder, and then cut off the head and fins. 
 Wash quickly in cold water, and then wipe dry. Season 
 generously with salt, a teaspoonful to two pounds of 
 fish. Now cover with the beaten egg, and then with fine 
 bread crumbs, being careful to have every part well coated 
 with the egg and crumbs. Fry in fat for seven minutes, 
 and drain on brown paper. Serve on a warm napkin, 
 with a garnish of fried parsley. Tartar sauce should be 
 provided in a small fancy dish. 
 
FISH. 191 
 
 * Boiled Striped Bass. 
 
 Prepare the water for the bass the same as for the red 
 snapper, omitting, however, the vinegar. Cut the fins 
 from the fish. See that it is free of scales ; then wash it 
 quickly in cold water. Lower it into the fish-kettle, and 
 move the kettle forward where the water will boil. As 
 soon as it begins to boil, move back where it will just 
 bubble for twenty minutes, if the fish be under three 
 pounds, and for twenty-five minutes, if it be over three 
 pounds. When done, lift it from the water and drain 
 well. Now slip it on a warm dish, and serve with any 
 of the following-named sauces : Dutch, Bernaise, remou- 
 lade, anchovy, or tomato. 
 
 Sheep's-head, black bass, lake trout, white-fish, etc., all 
 may be boiled and served the same as striped bass. 
 
 Breaded Fillet of Bass. 
 
 Get small bass for this dish. The striped kind is the 
 best, but black bass is very good. Fish weighing about 
 a pound and a half will give handsome fillets. 
 
 Clean and fillet the fish (see page 172). Season the 
 fillets generously with salt and lightly with pepper. 
 Now dip in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs, being 
 careful that every part is covered with egg and crumb. 
 Place in the frying-basket, but do not let the pieces 
 touch. Fry in fat for three minutes and a half. On 
 taking from the basket, drain on brown paper. Serve 
 very hot with Tartar sauce. 
 
 Black-fish, rock bass, halibut, flounders, white-fish, 
 etc., may be filleted and prepared in the same manner. 
 
 Broiled Smelts. 
 
 For twelve large smelts use three table-spoonfuls- of 
 butter, one of lemon juice, one of salt, half a teaspoonful 
 of pepper, and some flour. Put the butter, salt, pepper, 
 
 \ 
 
192 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 and lemon juice in a deep plate, and set on the back part 
 of the stove where the butter will melt slowly. Have 
 about three table-spoonfuls of flour in another plate. 
 Wash and wipe the smelts ; then roll them in the melted 
 butter and seasoning, and lightly in the flour. Lay them 
 in a double-broiler. When all are done, cook over clear 
 coals for seven minutes. Arrange on a warm dish, and 
 serve with remoulade sauce, the sauce to be in a 
 separate dish. 
 
 Stuffed Smelts. 
 
 Clean a dozen and a half large smelts, and season them 
 with salt. Stuff with oyster force-meat, not filling them 
 more than two-thirds. Now roll them in melted butter, 
 and then in fine bread crumbs. Lay them in a shallow 
 pan, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes, basting 
 once with soft butter. Serve on a warm dish with 
 Bernaise sauce. 
 
 Stuffed smelts may be breaded and fried, in which case 
 serve with Tartar sauce. 
 
 Turbot. 
 
 In some countries this is thought to be the choicest 
 of flat fish. When not too large, it certainly is very 
 delicate. It has this advantage over most white fish : it 
 improves by being kept a day or two after it is killed. 
 A fish weighing from four to eight pounds is a good size 
 for boiling, baking, or filleting. Turbots are found in 
 the market from two pounds up to twenty. When they 
 weigh more than ten pounds, the flesh generally is tough. 
 
 In choosing a turbot, take one with yellowish-white 
 flesh. The meat of a bluish-white fish will not be so 
 good. Turbot, like halibut (which is frequently sold for 
 turbot), has a dark upper skin, while the lower skin is 
 white. Sometimes the under skin is marred by red 
 spots. These can be removed by rubbing lemon juice 
 and salt on them. 
 
FISH. 19o 
 
 No matter how this fish is cooked, it always should be 
 soaked for at least half an hour in salted water before 
 being prepared for cooking, in order to remove the slime. 
 The skin becomes thick and gelatinous on cooking, and 
 is thought by epicures to be a choice morsel ; but it is 
 rather indigestible food. The fins, too, are gelatinous, 
 and they are left on the fish when it is boiled. 
 
 * Boiled Turbot. 
 
 Wash the fish carefully, and let it stand for one hour 
 in salted cold water, one table-spoonful of salt to each 
 pint of water. Now rinse the fish in fresh water. With 
 a sharp knife, cut the black skin in a straight line from 
 head to tail. This will prevent the white skin from 
 breaking. 
 
 Turbots are so broad that if the particular fish about 
 to be cooked be a large one, it will not fit into a common 
 fish-kettle. Few people have a turbot-kettle, and when 
 there is not one at hand, a deep milk-pan will answer 
 very well. Put a round, flat pot-cover in the bottom of 
 the pan, or, better still, have a round piece of tin made 
 'to fit loosely in the milk-pan. 
 
 For a fish weighing six pounds, put into the pan 
 enough boiling water to cover the turbot, two table- 
 spoonfuls of salt, and the juice of two lemons. When 
 the fish is put in, have the black side down. Watch the 
 kettle until the water begins to boil; then skim the 
 liquid, and set the kettle back where the water will only 
 bubble for half an hour. At the end of that time lift 
 the tin, with the fish on it, out of the water, and drain 
 well. Have a napkin spread smooth on a broad dish, 
 and slip the fish on to it, being careful to avoid marring 
 the shape. Garnish with parsley and sliced lemons, and 
 serve with lobster, shrimp, Hollandaise, or Bernaise 
 sauce. When nasturtium leaves and blossoms can be 
 obtained, they make a pretty garnish for this dish. 
 
 18 
 
194 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Turbot au Gratin. 
 
 With the cold turbot left from a meal a most appetiz- 
 ing dish can be made for luncheon or dinner. For a 
 small dish use one pint of fish, free of skin and bones, 
 one generous pint of grated bread crumbs, half a pint of 
 milk, one gill of stock or water, three table-spoonfuls of 
 butter, one of flour, one scant table-spoonful of salt, one- 
 third of a teaspoonful of pepper, one table-spoonful of 
 grated Parmesan cheese, one bay leaf, one small slice of 
 carrot, a slice of onion about the size of half a dollar, 
 and a tiny bit of mace. 
 
 Mix the flour and two table-spoonfuls of the butter in 
 a small stew-pan ; and when the mixture is smooth and 
 creamy, add the onion, carrot, bay leaf, mace, and water. 
 Put on the fire, and simmer gently for a quarter of an hour. 
 At the end of that time add the milk and half the salt 
 and pepper. Let the liquid boil up once ; then strain it. 
 
 While the sauce is cooking, prepare the crumbs. 
 After grating them, put them in the oven in a large 
 dripping-pan. Watch them carefully, stirring frequently 
 until they turn a delicate brown ; then take them from 
 the oven. 
 
 Now put the remaining butter on the fire in a frying- 
 pan, and as soon as it becomes hot, add the crumbs. 
 Stir over the fire until they become crisp, which will be 
 in about two minutes. Now add the cheese to the 
 strained sauce. Put a thin layer of this sauce in the 
 bottom of a gratin dish, a plated dish or a fire-proof 
 china dish ; then add a layer of fish, dredged with salt 
 and pepper ; next put in another layer of sauce, then a 
 second layer of fish, and conclude by pouring the re- 
 maining sauce into the dish. Sprinkle the browned 
 crumbs over the top. Place the dish in a moderately 
 hot oven for a quarter of an hour. Serve hot. 
 
 Turbot may be baked, broiled, fried, or filleted the 
 same as bass or flounder. 
 
FISH. 195 
 
 Codfish Cutlets. 
 
 Use one table-spoonful of lemon juice, three of butter, 
 one of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, one 
 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, one large egg, or two 
 small ones, about a large cupful of dried bread crumbs, 
 two slices of fish about an inch thick, and cut from the 
 middle of a large fresh cod. 
 
 Cut off the fins, and cut each slice in halves. Wipe 
 all dry. Put the butter, salt, pepper, lemon juice, and 
 chopped parsley in a deep plate, and set the plate on the 
 back part of the range, that the butter may get melted. 
 Beat the egg with a fork in another deep plate. 
 
 When the butter is melted, dip a slice of fish into the 
 mixture, then into the beaten egg, being careful to cover 
 every part, and then roll in crumbs. Lay this slice on a 
 clean plate, and treat the others in the same way -, then 
 set all away in a cool place until the time for frying. 
 Cook in the fry ing-basket for four minutes, and serve 
 with tomato sauce. 
 
 Haddock a la Creme. 
 
 Use a fish weighing five or six pounds. After cut- 
 ting off the head, wash the fish and put it into boiling 
 water enough to cover ; and after adding a table-spoonful 
 of salt and one of vinegar, cook the fish slowly for 
 twenty minutes. 
 
 In the mean time make the sauce. Put a quart of 
 milk, a small slice of onion, and a sprig of parsley on to 
 boil. Rub two large table-spoonfuls of butter to a cream, 
 and add two table-spoonfuls of flour to it; and after 
 beating the mixture until perfectly light and creamy, 
 stir it into the boiling milk, and cook for five minutes. 
 Season well with salt and pepper, and skim out the 
 onion and parsley. 
 
 When the fish has been cooked for twenty minutes, 
 lift it gently from the water and scrape the skin from 
 
196 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 one side j then lay it carefully upon a large stone-china 
 platter, or a large gratin dish, if you have one, and 
 remove the skin from the other side. Pick out all fche 
 small bones you can see, and then take out the backbone, 
 starting at the neck, and working slowly down toward 
 the tail. This part of the work must be done very care- 
 fully, in order to preserve the shape of the fish. Drain off 
 uny water that may have lodged in the dish, and then 
 dredge the haddock lightly with salt and pepper, and 
 pour the sauce over it. 
 
 Have at hand eight large potatoes, mashed light, and 
 seasoned with salt and pepper, two table-spoonfuls of 
 butter, and half a cupful of hot milk. Rub these in- 
 gredients together through a colander, and heap the 
 mixture lightly around the edge of the dish on which 
 the fish lies. Brown slightly in the oven, which will 
 take from ten to fifteen minutes, and serve at once. 
 
 Escaloped Pish. 
 
 If provision is to be made for six persons, use a quart 
 of boiled and flaked fish (any kind of white fish will do), 
 a quart of milk, three table-spoonfuls of butter, two of 
 flour, two table-spoonfuls of Parmesan cheese, one tea- 
 spoonful of onion juice, two level table-spoonfuls of salt, 
 half a teaspoonful of pepper, and one cupful and a half 
 of grated bread crumbs. 
 
 Put the butter in a frying-pan, and set it on the stove 
 to get melted. When it becomes melted, add the flour, 
 and stir the mixture until it is smooth and frothy. 
 Gradually add the milk, stirring all the while. Continue 
 the stirring until the mixture boils ; then place it where 
 it will simply simmer during the next two minutes. At 
 the end of that time add the cheese, onion juice, half 
 the pepper, and one teaspoonful of the salt. 
 
 Sprinkle the remainder of the salt and pepper on the 
 flaked fish. Put a layer of the sauce in an escalop dish. 
 
FISH. 197 
 
 then a layer of fish, next a second layer of sauce, after- 
 ward the remainder of the fish, and finally put in a 
 layer of sauce. Sprinkle the crumbs over the sauce, and 
 set the dish in a moderately hot oven for twenty 
 minutes. The crumbs may be made very crisp if an 
 extra table-spoonful of butter be melted and sprinkled 
 over them just before the dish is put into the oven. 
 
 * Here is a simpler rule : Begin by freeing from skin 
 and tones a pint and a half of cold baked or boiled fish. 
 Season it with one-eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper 
 and a teaspoonful and a half of salt. Next make a sauce 
 with a pint of milk, a generous table-spoonful of butter, 
 and one of flour, and a piece of onion about the size of a 
 quarter of a dollar. Put the milk and onion on to boil. 
 Rub the butter and flour till a cream is formed, and stir 
 this into the milk as soon as it begins to boil. Cook 
 five minutes longer, and season with salt and pepper. 
 After removing the onion, put alternate layers of the 
 sauce and fish into an escalop dish, having three of 
 sauce and two of fish. The last will, of course, be one 
 of the sauce, and upon it should be sprinkled dry bread- 
 crumbs, three-fourths of a cupful. Bake for about 
 twenty minutes in a moderate oven. 
 
 *Fish R6chauff. 
 
 Free a quantity of cold fish of skin and bones, and for 
 each pint allow half a pint of egg sauce and a quart of 
 mashed potato. If there be not enough sauce, add a 
 sufficient quantity of milk to make up the proper allow- 
 ance. Put a thin layer of potato in an escalop dish. 
 Season the fish well with salt and pepper, and lay it 
 upon the potato. Pour the sauce into the dish, and 
 cover with the remaining potato. Spread a table-spoon- 
 ful of melted butter over the potato, and then put the 
 dish into a hot oven for twenty minutes. 
 
198 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Salt Fish in Cream, with Puree of Potatoes. 
 
 For the pure*e use six potatoes of medium size, a 
 generous half-cupful of hot milk, one table-spoonful of 
 butter, and a teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 For the rest of the dish use enough fish to make a 
 pint and a half (about a pound and a quarter) when it 
 is flaked, one pint of milk, two table-spoonfuls of but- 
 ter, one of flour, the yolk of an egg, and one-third of 
 a teaspoonful of white pepper. 
 
 Wash the fish, and put it to soak (in one piece) in 
 cold water for eight or ten hours. At the end of that 
 time pour off this water ; then cover with fresh cold 
 water, and place on the fire. When the water reaches 
 the boiling-point, draw the stew-pan back where it will 
 keep hot, without boiling, for one hour. At the end of 
 that time pour off the water and break the fish into 
 flakes, freeing it of skin and bones. Put it in a saucepan 
 with the milk, and cook for twenty minutes without 
 letting it boil. Now beat the butter and flour together, 
 and stir into the dish of fish. Cook for ten minutes 
 longer ; then add the pepper, and some salt if it be 
 needed ; and also add the yolk of the egg, beaten with 
 two table-spoonfuls of water. Stir for half a minute, 
 and then pour into a border of puree of potatoes. 
 
 To Make the Puree. Cover the potatoes with boiling 
 water, and place them on the fire just before putting on 
 the fish and milk. Cook for half an hour ; then drain off the 
 water, and mash the potatoes. Add the seasoning to them, 
 and arrange on a warm dish in the form of a border. 
 
 * Salt Fish and Eggs in Cream. 
 
 This is a pretty dish for breakfast. It is made of a 
 pint of salt fish, a pint of milk (cream is, however, 
 better), half a dozen eggs, two generous table-spoonfuls 
 of butter, one table-spoonful of flour, and salt and pepper 
 in quantities to suit one's taste. 
 
FISH. 199 
 
 Free the fish of skin and bones ; then wash it care- 
 fully, and tear it into small pieces. Let it stand over 
 night in a pint of cold water, and in the morning set the 
 basin which contains it on the stove in another of hot 
 water, and let the fish cook for twenty minutes or half 
 an hour. Meanwhile put the eggs into another basin, 
 and after covering them with boiling water, cover the 
 basin and set it where the water will keep hot for ten 
 minutes without boiling. 
 
 During this time put the milk on the stove in a sauce- 
 pan. Stir the butter and flour together, and stir the 
 mixture into the milk when it begins to boil. Season 
 with salt and pepper, and then set the saucepan back for 
 two minutes where the heat is so slight that the milk 
 will only bubble. 
 
 Turn the fish into the strainer, to drain off all the 
 water ; then put it into the cream sauce, and cook five 
 minutes longer. While it is cooking, transfer the eggs 
 from the basin of hot water to some cold water, and then 
 break the shells and remove them carefully. Cover the 
 eggs with a napkin, to keep them warm. Pour the fish 
 and cream upon a warm platter, and lay the eggs in a 
 circle on top. If care has been taken to keep them hot 
 without boiling, they will be soft and digestible. Serve 
 the dish without delay. 
 
 * Salt Fish in Cream. 
 
 After tearing a pint of salt fish into bits, cover it with 
 water, and let it soak over night. In the morning pour 
 off the water, and add a pint of milk to the fish. Heat 
 slowly arid keep hot (without boiling) for half an hour. 
 Rub together one large table-spoonful of butter and one 
 of flour, and stir in with the fish and milk. Put the 
 dish where it will simmer for ten minutes. Season, if 
 necessary, with salt and pepper. It is an improvement 
 to add two well-beaten eggs, and serve the fish in a 
 
200 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 border of mashed potatoes. Finished in this way, the 
 dish is a good one for luncheon. 
 
 * Fish Toast. 
 
 Use six small slices of toast, one pint of cold cooked 
 fish, freed of skin and bones, and torn into shreds with 
 two forks, three gills of milk, two table-spoonfuls of but- 
 ter, the yolks of two eggs, one teaspoonful of flour, 
 one-fourth of a teaspoonful of white pepper, a generous 
 teaspoonful of salt, and one teaspoonful of lemon juice. 
 
 Put half a pint of milk in the double-boiler and set it 
 on the fire. Mix half of the remaining milk with the 
 flour, and stir the mixture into the boiling milk. Cook 
 for five minutes ; then add the fish, salt, and pepper, and 
 cook for five minutes longer. Beat the yolks of the 
 eggs well, and add the rest of the cold milk to them. 
 Stir this mixture into the dish containing the fish mix- 
 ture, and take the latter from the fire at once. Now add 
 the lemon juice, and spread the prepared fish on the 
 bread, which should be toasted and buttered while the 
 fish is heating. Serve very hot. 
 
 * Baked Salt Mackerel, Cream Sauce. 
 
 Wash a salt mackerel thoroughly, and soak it over 
 night in about three quarts of cold water. In the morn- 
 ing lay it on its back in a shallow baking-pan, and pour a 
 pint of milk over it. Bake for twenty minutes in a 
 moderately hot oven, stirring into the milk, at the end 
 of a quarter of an hour, a level table-spoonful of flour, a 
 large table-spoonful of butter, and one-eighth of a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, all rubbed together till a smooth 
 paste is formed. At serving-time, carefully transfer 
 the fish to a warm platter, and pour the sauce over it. 
 
 * Spiced Salmon. 
 
 Free of skin and bones any salmon left from a dinner, 
 and put it into a deep dish or a bowl. Next prepare a 
 

 FISH. 201 
 
 marinade, allowing for each pint of fish the following- 
 named ingredients : a gill of vinegar, two table-spoonfuls 
 of lemon juice, two cloves, a small piece of stick cinna- 
 mon, a bay leaf, a teaspoonful of salt, and one-eighth of 
 a teaspoonful of pepper. Put these articles on the stove 
 in a covered saucepan, and as soon as the mixture begins 
 to boil, pour it over the salmon. Cover the dish and set 
 it in a cool place. This gives a nice relish, which will 
 keep for a week. 
 
 Any other rich fish may be treated the same as 
 salmon. 
 
 * Broiled Smoked Salmon. 
 
 Even so simple a dish as this is often improperly 
 prepared. For six persons take a piece of smoked sal- 
 mon about six inches long and four broad, remembering 
 that the fish is very rich. Wash and drain, and broil 
 slowly for twelve minutes. Place on a warm dish, and 
 spread a table-spoonful of butter on it. 
 
 * Broiled Salt Fish. 
 
 At first thought it may seem absurd to give a rule for 
 broiling a bit of salt cod ; nevertheless, few people cook 
 this fish in the best way. It is a delicious relish if prop- 
 erly prepared. Use a piece cut from the thick part of 
 the cod. Wash it well, and let it stand in cold water 
 for twenty minutes ; then wipe it dry, and broil over 
 a moderate fire for ten or twelve minutes. Place on a 
 warm dish, and spread butter over it with a generous 
 hand, cutting the fish a little here and there, so that the 
 butter may penetrate all parts of it. 
 
 * Dried Sprats. 
 
 These little fish are sold for ten cents a bunch. They 
 make a nice relish for luncheon or supper. Put them in 
 a bowl, and cover with boiling water. Let them stand 
 
202 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 ten minutes ; then skin them, and wipe dry. Broil over 
 clear coals for eight minutes. Put them on a warm dish, 
 spread a little butter on them, and serve. 
 
 . . 
 * Smoked Herring. 
 
 Prepare the herring in the same manner as the dried 
 sprats. 
 
 * Halibut Fishballs. 
 
 For six persons use two cupfuls of cold boiled halibut, 
 four or five potatoes of medium size, an egg, two table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, one-third of 
 a teaspoonful of white pepper. 
 
 Chop the fish fine. Put the potatoes into boiling 
 water, and cook them for half an hour ; then pour off the 
 water, and mash the potatoes until light and fine. Add 
 the fish and seasoning, and finally the egg, well beaten. 
 Form the mixture into small balls; and after putting 
 these into a fry ing-basket, plunge them into boiling fat. 
 Cook until brown, say about two minutes. 
 
 If, instead of making balls of the mixture, one add 
 one-fourth of a cupful of cream or milk to it, form it into 
 flat cakes, and cook these in a frying-pan, with either 
 pork fat or butter enough to prevent sticking, a very 
 palatable dish will be the result. It will take longer to 
 cook these cakes than it does to cook fishballs, but they 
 will be delicate, and not so much fat will be required as 
 is needed for the immersion of fishballs. 
 
 * Fish Cakes. 
 
 To make these cakes one must use eight potatoes of 
 good size, one cupful and a half of raw salt cod, which 
 has been shred rather fine (do not soak it), one egg, one 
 heaping table-spoonful of butter, one-eighth of a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, half a gill of milk, one-eighth of a 
 pound of salt pork, and salt enough to suit your taste as 
 the work goes on. 
 
FISH. 203 
 
 Pare the potatoes, and put them into a stew-pan of 
 good size ; then rinse the fish, and put it on top of the 
 potatoes. Cover with boiling water, and cook for half an 
 hour ; then pour off all the water, and inash both fish 
 and potatoes until fine and light. Add the seasoning, 
 butter, milk, and egg. Cut the pork into thin slices, and 
 putting it into a frying-pan, cook it until brown and 
 crisp. Form the fish mixture into small, thin cakes, 
 perhaps two inches and a half in diameter. Eemove the 
 pork from the frying-pan, and put these cakes into the 
 fat. When they get brown on one side, turn them, and 
 brown the other side. When all have been fried, serve 
 them on a hot platter with the slices of pork for a 
 garnish. 
 
 If you do not like the taste of pork the cakes may be 
 fried in three table-spoonfuls of butter. 
 
 Fish Croquettes. 
 
 Free of skin and bones a pint of cold boiled fresh fish, 
 and tear it into .shreds. Add to it a pint of hot mashed 
 potato, a table-spoonful of butter, half a cupful of hot 
 milk, a well-beaten egg, one-third of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, a generous teaspoonful of salt, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley. Mix thoroughly, and set 
 away to cool. When cold, shape into cylinders, cones, 
 or balls; then dip in a beaten egg, and roll in fine 
 bread-crumbs. Just before serving-time place the cro- 
 quettes in a frying-basket, and plunge into boiling fat. 
 Cook for two minutes, and serve as soon as they have 
 been drained. 
 
 If the croquettes be wanted for breakfast, all the 
 labor except frying may be done the previous day. 
 
 Fried Frogs' Legs. 
 
 Wash the legs in cold water, and let them drain in a 
 colander ; then season well with salt, pepper, and lemon 
 juice. For a dozen legs, beat two eggs until they are well 
 
204 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 broken, and season with salt and pepper. Dip the legs 
 into the beaten eggs and then into dried bread crumbs, 
 and, placing them in a fry ing-basket, plunge into boiling 
 fat. Cook for five minutes, and serve very hot. Frogs' 
 legs are suitable fqr breakfast or luncheon, or for an 
 entree at dinner. In the latter case they should be 
 served with Tartar sauce. 
 
 Fried Shad Roe. 
 
 For six persons use the roe from two fishes. Wash 
 them, and put them in a stew-pan with one table-spoonful 
 of salt and enough boiling water to cover them. Cook 
 for ten minutes, and then put them into a bowl of cold 
 water for an equal period. On removing them from 
 the water at the end of that time cut them in slices 
 about half an inch thick. Sprinkle these slices with 
 one table-spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pep- 
 per, and the juice of one lemon. Now dip in beaten 
 egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in lard for five 
 minutes. 
 
 Shad Roe Baked with Cream Sauce. 
 
 Boil and cool the roe in the same manner as for frying. 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan, and 
 set the pan on the stove. When the butter becomes hot, 
 add two level table-spoonfuls of flour. Stir until the 
 flour becomes brown ; then draw the pan back to a 
 cooler place, and gradually pour into it one pint of milk, 
 stirring all the time. Add a teaspoonful of salt and 
 half a teaspoonful of pepper. Boil up once ; then pour 
 into a bowl, and set in a warm place. 
 
 Butter a tin plate, and place the roe on it. Season 
 well with salt and pepper. Pour four table-spoonfuls of 
 the sauce over the roe, and then bake them in a mod- 
 erately hot oven for three-quarters of an hour, basting 
 every fifteen minutes with the sauce and dredging lightly 
 
FISH. 205 
 
 with salt and pepper. Five minutes before the roe are 
 done, pour upon the plate any of the sauce that may 
 remain in the bowl at that time. Serve on a warm 
 dish. 
 
 Shad Roe Baked in Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Boil and cool the roe as previously directed. Put 
 into a stew-pan one cupful of tomato, one cupful of stock 
 or water, one teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, and a bit of onion about as big as a dime. Boil 
 for ten minutes. 
 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of butter into a frying-pan 
 and on the stove, and as soon as it becomes hot, add one 
 table-spoonful of flour. Stir until smooth and frothy, 
 and then turn into the cooking tomato. Cook five 
 minutes longer, and then rub through a strainer. Now 
 proceed exactly as with roe baked with cream sauce. 
 
 Various kinds of roe may be prepared in the same 
 way as the shad roe. 
 
 Oysters. 
 
 Oysters are at their best in cold weather. The breed- 
 ing season begins about the first of May, and the fish 
 become soft and milky. It is not until the weather turns 
 cold that they grow firm and plump again. Canned 
 oysters are, of course, as good at one time as another, 
 because they are preserved when at their best. 
 
 Oysters are sold in some places wholly by measure, 
 and in others both by measure and by number. When 
 sold by measure, they are usually bought with the juice 
 that was taken from the shells, and frequently water is 
 added to this, to fill up the measure ; these are called 
 liquid oysters. Solid oysters have very little juice with 
 them. 
 
 When oysters are sold by the dozen, they are usually 
 divided into several grades. " Counts " are the largest 
 
206 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 oysters, and are suitable for frying, broiling, stuffing, etc. 
 They bring the highest price, of course. " Selects " also 
 are large oysters, coming next to counts. They are called 
 "culls" in some places. "Straights" are the oysters 
 taken as they come, large and small. The smallest 
 oysters are called stewing oysters. 
 
 In cooking oysters, few people consider how delicate 
 they are and how easily spoiled. The seasonings used 
 should be few and of the most delicate kind ; and no 
 matter what the mode of preparation be, the cooking 
 should never be prolonged after the oysters have become 
 plump and their edges curl. Too much cooking makes 
 them shrink and grow tough. 
 
 In planning for a dish of oysters in almost any form, 
 nearly all the work may be performed some time pre- 
 vious to the meal. The cooking should not be done 
 until everything has been so arranged that the dish may 
 be sent to the table the moment it is finished. The 
 foundation of an oyster soup may be made a considerable 
 time before dinner, and the oysters and liquor added 
 later. Then with creamed oysters, the cream may be 
 prepared, the oysters heated to the boiling-point in their 
 own liquor, drained, and set aside for half an hour, if 
 need be, without injury, provided they are not kept hot ; 
 and at serving-time it will only be necessary to add 
 them to the hot sauce. Oysters may be breaded and put 
 away, in a cool place, for a long time before they are 
 fried ; but they should be eaten just as soon as they are 
 cooked in order to taste them in perfection. It is the 
 same with escaloped oysters ; they may be prepared con- 
 siderably in advance of the cooking, yet must be served 
 immediately after coming from the oven in order t( 
 obtain the greatest satisfaction from them. It is surpris 
 ing that people take so much pains in cooking oysters 
 and then fail of placing them upon the table with the 
 least possible delay. A last word of caution : avoid 
 over-cooking. 
 
FISH. 207 
 
 To Serve Raw Oysters. 
 
 Kaw oysters are served on the half-shell, in oyster 
 plates, and in a block of ice. Serve each person with 
 five or six oysters and a quarter of a lemon. Pass thin 
 slices of buttered brown or graham bread. Be sure that 
 the butter is spread very thin on the bread. 
 
 Little-neck clams take the place of oysters during the 
 hot weather, and are served in the same manner. 
 
 * Stewed Oysters. 
 
 Drain all the liquor from a quart of oysters, and, 
 putting it into a stew-pan, let it heat slowly, being care- 
 ful that it does not get burned. When it has been 
 heated to the boiling-point, skim it carefully. Mean- 
 while heat a quart of milk in a double-boiler ; and when 
 it begins to boil, add the skimmed liquor, the oysters, 
 two table-spoonfuls of butter, and salt and pepper to suit 
 the taste. Let the stew boil up once, and then serve. 
 
 Many people think that a few say four table- 
 spoonfuls of powdered cracker improve the stew. If 
 any cracker be used, add it when the oysters are put in. 
 
 Oysters Saute. 
 
 After draining two dozen large oysters, season them 
 with salt and pepper and roll in fine cracker crumbs. 
 Put four table-spoonfuls of butter into a cup, and let 
 the cup stand in a basin of boiling water until the butter 
 becomes melted, clear on top, with sediment collected 
 on the bottom of the cup. Pour half of the clear butter 
 into a frying-pan, and when it gets very hot put in 
 enough oysters to cover the bottom of the pan. When 
 they are brown on one side, turn them and brown the 
 other side. Be careful that they do not get burned. 
 Serve very hot on crisp toast. Now put the remainder 
 of the clear butter into the frying-pan, and cook the rest 
 of the oysters. 
 
208 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 The sediment that is left on the bottom of the cup 
 may be used with drippings or lard for shortening. Its 
 presence in butter increases the danger of burning; 
 therefore it should always be separated from the butter 
 before the time for frying. 
 
 Curried Oysters. 
 
 Lay out a solid quart of oysters, half a pint of cream, 
 two table-spoonfuls of butter, one generous table-spoonful 
 of flour, one teaspoonful of curry-powder, half a teaspoon- 
 ful of chopped onion, and some salt and pepper. 
 
 Put the oysters into a stew-pan, and heat them to the 
 boiling-point, being careful that they do not get scorched. 
 Skim carefully, and turn into a large strainer or colan- 
 der. When they have been well drained, put them away 
 in a bowl, or anything else that is convenient, where 
 they will keep warm without cooking any more. Put 
 the butter and onion into a frying-pan, and cook slowly 
 for ten minutes. Mix the flour and curry-powder, and 
 stir into the butter. Continue the stirring until the 
 mixture is smooth and frothy ; then draw the frying-pan 
 to a cooler part of the stove and gradually add half a 
 pint of the liquor which was drained from the oysters. 
 When this boils up, add the cream and some salt and 
 pepper. Boil up once more and strain. Put the oysters 
 into the sauce, and serve immediately with a plate of 
 crisp toast. 
 
 Fried Oysters. 
 
 For six persons provide four dozen large oysters. 
 Drain them in a colander, and season well with salt and 
 pepper. Have ready a pint and a half of fine dry bread 
 crumbs seasoned slightly with salt and pepper. Beat 
 three eggs in a soup-plate. Put a few of the crumbs on 
 a large plate, and after rolling the oysters on this plate, 
 one by one, lay them on a board that has been sprinkled 
 
FISH. 209 
 
 lightly with crumbs. When all the oysters have been 
 thus treated, dip them into the beaten egg, one at a time, 
 and roll in a quantity of crumbs. Place them on a large 
 platter or on plates, but never on top of one another. 
 Let them stand for an hour or two in a cool place. 
 When the time for frying comes, put a layer of oysters 
 into the frying-basket, and plunge into boiling fat so hot 
 that blue smoke rises from the centre. Cook for about 
 a minute and a half ; then drain on brown paper. Cook 
 the remainder of the oysters in the same way, and serve 
 on fried slices of brown bread or on a warm napkin. 
 The bread is a very nice accompaniment. Oysters pre- 
 pared in this manner are brown, crisp, plump, and 
 tender. 
 
 If the crumbs be not liked, the oysters may be fried in 
 table oil. Four table-spoonfuls will be enough for two 
 dozen oysters. Put it into a small frying-pan, and when 
 it has become hot, drop in oysters in number sufficient 
 to cover the bottom of the pan. Brown on one side, and 
 then turn and brown on the other. 
 
 Oysters that are to be fried by this mode may simply 
 be seasoned with salt and pepper, or they may be sea- 
 soned, and dredged lightly with flour. They will not be 
 so attractive as if cooked in the manner first described, 
 yet will be sweet and tender. 
 
 Dressed celery or cabbage salad is exceedingly goocl 
 with fried oysters. 
 
 Oysters a la Poulette. 
 
 Put a solid quart of oysters on the stove to boil in 
 their own liquor. As soon as they begin to boil, skim 
 carefully, and turn into a strainer ; and when they have 
 been well drained, set them aside. Put half a pint of 
 the oyster liquor into a saucepan, and when it begins to 
 boil, stir into it one heaping teaspoonful of flour mixed 
 with three table-spoonfuls of cold water. Boil gently 
 five minutes longer. Put a pint of cream into a double- 
 
210 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 boiler, and when it begins to boil, add the thickened 
 oyster liquor. Season with salt, pepper, a slight grating 
 of nutmeg, and a grain of cayenne. Have at hand the 
 yolks of four eggs, well beaten, and add to them half a 
 cupful of cold cream. Now add to the cooking mixture 
 the oysters, a table-spoonful of butter, and finally the 
 egg mixture. Cook for three minutes, stirring all the 
 time ; then remove from the fire immediately, and serve 
 with a border of puff-paste cakes. If you choose, add 
 a table-spoonful of lemon juice just as the oysters are 
 taken from the fire. 
 
 Oyster Cutlets. 
 
 There must be taken for these cutlets one cupful of 
 fine-chopped cooked chicken, half a pint of oysters, three 
 eggs, one table-spoonful of flour, one of butter, two of 
 fine cracker crumbs, one of lemon juice, one teaspoonfui 
 of salt, and one-eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
 Soak the crumbs in the oyster liquor. Chop the 
 oysters very fine, and add them to the soaked crumbs. 
 Add also the chicken and seasoning. Put the butter into 
 a frying-pan, and when it becomes melted, add the flour. 
 Stir until smooth and frothy ; then add the oyster mix- 
 ture, and stir for three minutes. Put in two eggs, beaten 
 Veil, and stir for a minute longer. Take from the fire 
 and spread upon a platter to cool, and when cold, shape 
 like cutlets. After beating the remaining egg (which 
 should be a large one), dip the cutlets into it and then 
 into bread crumbs, and fry in fat until brown. A min- 
 ute and a half should suffice for the cooking. Serve 
 with Bechamel or anchovy sauce. 
 
 While the mixture is hot it may be spread smoothly 
 upon a buttered platter and then shaped into cutlets ; or 
 the cutlets may be moulded in a tin form that is made 
 for that purpose. 
 
FISH. 211 
 
 * Oysters au Gratin. 
 
 For six or eight persons use a solid quart of oysters, 
 one gill of cream or milk, a scant half-pint of oyster 
 liquor, two table-spoonfuls of flour, two of butter, one 
 of Parmesan cheese, one cupful of grated bread crumbs, 
 half a teaspoonful of pepper, one heaping teaspoonful of 
 salt, and a slight grating of nutmeg. 
 
 Heat the oysters to the boiling-point in their own 
 liquor ; then skim them out, and drain them, saving the 
 liquor. Put half a pint of this liquor into a stew-pan, and 
 heat it slowly to the boiling-point. Meanwhile beat the 
 butter and flour together until smooth and light. Stir 
 this mixture into the liquor when it begins to boil, and 
 cook for three minutes more ; then add the cheese, salt, 
 pepper, nutmeg, and cream. Heat to the boiling-point 
 once more, and add the oysters. 
 
 Now spread the contents of the stew-pan in a gratin 
 dish or an escalop dish, and sprinkle the crumbs over the 
 mixture. Place on the upper shelf of an oven having 
 a moderate heat ; the heat should be greatest at the top 
 of the dish. Bake for twenty minutes, and serve imme- 
 diately afterward. 
 
 The crumbs will be crisper if an extra table-spoonful 
 of butter be broken into bits and sprinkled over them 
 before baking. 
 
 * Roasted Oysters. 
 
 Put a solid quart of oysters into a stew-pan in their 
 own liquor. Bub three large table-spoonfuls of butter 
 and two level table-spoonfuls of flour to a cream ; and 
 when the oysters have been heated to the boiling-point, 
 skim them carefully and add the butter and flour. Sea- 
 son with a table-spoonful of lemon juice, one-tenth of 
 a teaspoonful of cayenne, a little white pepper, and 
 a quantity of salt to suit your taste, and then boil 
 up once. Have six small slices of toast on a warm 
 
212 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 platter, and after pouring the oysters upon them, serve 
 immediately. 
 
 * Escaloped Oysters. 
 
 For a dish that holds three pints, generous measure, 
 use one solid quart of oysters, half a pint of cracker 
 crumbs, three table-spoonfuls and a half of butter, one 
 teaspoonful and a half of salt, and one-third of a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper. 
 
 Put one-third of the oysters in the bottom of the dish, 
 taking them up with a fork, that there may not be too 
 much liquor, as there would be if a spoon were used. 
 Sprinkle half a teaspoonful of salt and one-third of 
 the pepper on these. Now dot with one table-spoonful 
 of the butter. Spread a generous half-cupful of the 
 cracker crumbs over this. Now spread the remainder 
 of the oysters on the cracker crumbs, taking them up, 
 as before, with the fork. Sprinkle with the rest of 
 the salt and pepper, and dot with a table-spoonful and a 
 half of butter. Spread the remainder of the cracker 
 over these oysters. Now dot with a table-spoonful of 
 butter, and sprinkle with the oyster liquor. Bake in a 
 hot oven for half an hour. 
 
 If the flavor be liked, a slight grating of nutmeg and 
 a gill of wine may be added to this dish. 
 
 * Here is another receipt in which bread crumbs are 
 used instead of cracker : Take one solid quart of oysters, 
 drained as free as possible from liquid, three pints of 
 grated bread crumbs, a teaspoonful and a half of salt, 
 one-third of a teaspoonful of pepper, and three generous 
 table-spoonfuls of butter. 
 
 Grate the bread and measure it lightly. Spread it in 
 a large dripping-pan, and put into a moderate oven to 
 dry. Keep it in the oven for about twenty minutes, 
 stirring frequently. It should be only slightly browned 
 
FISH. 213 
 
 in that time. Let the crumbs cool, and then prepare 
 and cook the oysters the same as with cracker crumbs, 
 save that none of the oyster liquor should be used. 
 
 * Broiled Oysters. 
 
 Get the largest oysters. Season them with salt and 
 pepper. Dip them one by one into melted butter ; then 
 roll them in flour. Lay them on an oyster-broiler that 
 has been rubbed over with butter. It is best to use a 
 double-broiler made of fine wire, with the bars very 
 close together. Cook the oysters over clear coals until 
 they turn a delicate brown. Serve on slices of thin 
 toast. 
 
 These oysters may be rolled in fine cracker crumbs 
 instead of the flour. 
 
 Oysters that have been breaded, the same as for 
 frying, are nice broiled. 
 
 * Spindled Oysters. 
 
 Use three dozen large oysters, three ounces of smoked 
 bacon, six slices of toast. Six or eight long, slender 
 steel skewers also will be needed. 
 
 Cut the bacon into three dozen small, thin squares. 
 String the bacon and the oysters on skewers, alternating 
 with the fish and meat. Be careful to run the skewer 
 only through the hard part of the oyster. Kest the 
 ends of these skewers on the sides of a narrow baking- 
 pan, so that the oysters shall hang down, but not touch 
 the bottom of the pan. Have a little space between 
 each skewer, so that the heat shall reach all parts at 
 once. Place the pan in a very hot oven for five min- 
 utes. On taking it from the oven, place a skewer, 
 with its contents, on each slice of toast. Pour over 
 the toast the juices which have run into the pan. Serve 
 at once. 
 
214 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Griddled Oysters. 
 
 Have the griddle heated the same as for griddle-cakes. 
 Have the oysters wiped dry. Now spread them on a 
 clean towel, and place on a large plate. Have on a dish 
 as many slices of buttered toast as there are persons to 
 serve. Have a table-spoonful of butter for every dozen 
 oysters. Put this in a small saucer, and place it beside 
 the oysters. Now drop a piece of butter about the size 
 of a large pea on the hot griddle, and immediately drop 
 an oyster on this butter. Continue this work rapidly 
 until all the oysters are on the griddle. Now come back 
 to the first one. Drop a bit of butter near it ; then slip 
 a knife under the oyster, and lift it from the griddle 
 with the brown crust that has formed under it. Turn 
 it over on the fresh bit of butter, and continue in 
 this way until all have been turned. Now, beginning 
 with the first oyster, take off all and place them on the 
 toast. 
 
 The entire work must be done rapidly, or the oysters 
 will be cooked too much. Never try the shorter way of 
 buttering the entire griddle at once ; if you do you will 
 have burned butter, which will destroy the true flavor of 
 the oysters. 
 
 * Oysters on Toast. 
 
 For six people use fifty good-sized oysters, three table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful of lemon juice, one- 
 eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper, six slices of toast, 
 ftnd salt to suit the taste. 
 
 Put the oysters in a frying-pan and on the stove, and 
 vhen they get heated to the boiling-point, add the sea- 
 joning. Boil up, and then pour them on the slices of 
 toast, which should be arranged on a warm platter. 
 Serve at once. This is the simplest way to prepare 
 oysters. They can be cooked at the table in a chafing- 
 dish. 
 
FISH. 215 
 
 Stuffed Oysters. 
 
 For two dozen large oysters make a force-meat with 
 the following-named ingredients : the breast of an un- 
 cooked fowl, chopped, pounded, and then rubbed through 
 a puree sieve, one-fourth of a cupful of cream or milk, 
 one-eighth of a cupful of stale bread crumbs free of 
 crust, the white of one egg, one table-spoonful of butter, 
 half a teaspoonf ul of salt, a tiny bit of white pepper, and 
 a slight grating of nutmeg. 
 
 Put the bread and cream in a small saucepan, and cook 
 until a smooth paste is formed (it will take ten minutes 
 on the back of the range, where it should be put, and 
 where it will hardly bubble). Take this paste from 
 the fire, and add the seasoning, chicken, and the white 
 of the egg, well beaten. Mix all well, and set away to 
 cool. 
 
 Dry the oysters on a soft towel, and season them well 
 with salt and pepper. Now roll them in fine bread 
 crumbs, and lay them on a large dish. Divide the force- 
 meat into twelve parts, and spread evenly on twelve 
 oysters. Lay the other twelve oysters on the first dozen, 
 pressing gently with the blade of the knife to make them 
 stick. 
 
 Put into a deep plate the yolk of the egg left from the 
 force-meat and one whole egg, and beat well with a fork. 
 Season with salt. Dip the stuffed oysters in this egg, 
 and then roll them in bread crumbs, being careful to 
 have every part covered with the egg and crumbs. 
 When all are done, place them in a frying-basket, being 
 careful not to crowd them, and cook until they are a rich 
 brown, in fat at the temperature of about 400. It will 
 take about one minute and a half to fry them. Serve 
 with Madeira sauce. 
 
 The stuffed and breaded oysters may be kept in a cool 
 place for several hours before frying. 
 
216 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Oysters a la Duxelles. 
 
 Use three dozen oysters of medium size, four table- 
 spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, the yolks of two eggs, 
 two generous table-spoonfuls of butter, two level table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of cay- 
 enne, half a teaspoonful of onion juice, one teaspoonful 
 of lemon juice, salt to suit the taste, and four table- 
 spoonfuls of cold water. 
 
 Heat the oysters to the boiling-point in their own 
 liquor. Skim them, and then turn them into a strainer 
 that has been placed over a bowl. Let the liquor stand 
 for a few minutes ; then pour off one pint of it, being 
 careful not to pour in any sand. Put the butter in a 
 saucepan and on the fire, and when it becomes hot add 
 the mushrooms to it. Cook for two minutes, stirring all 
 the while. Now add the flour, and stir until frothy. 
 Draw the saucepan back, and gradually add the oyster 
 liquor, stirring steadily ; then push forward, and add 
 the salt, pepper, and onion juice. Boil for three min- 
 utes ; then add the oysters. Cook for two minutes, and 
 stir m the yolks of the eggs, which have been beaten 
 thoroughly with the cold water. Take from the fire at 
 once, and add the lemon juice. Serve immediately. 
 
 These oysters may be served on thin slices of toasted 
 bread, or with a border of puff-paste cakes, or on Boston 
 crackers that have been split, dipped in cold water, then 
 buttered on the inside, and placed on a pan and in a hot 
 oven for six or seven minutes. 
 
 Baked Oysters a la Duxelles. 
 
 For six persons use one solid quart of oysters, a cup- 
 ful and a half of chicken or veal stock, one teaspoonful 
 of fine-minced onion, a cupful of fine-chopped mush- 
 rooms, three table-spoonfuls of flour, six of butter, a gen- 
 erous pint of grated bread crumbs, the yolks of three 
 eggs, two table-spoonfuls of lemon juice, one-fifth of a 
 
FISH. 217 
 
 teaspoon ful of cayenne, one quarter of a teaspoonful of 
 white pepper, and about three teaspoonfuls of salt. 
 
 Put the oysters and stock on the fire in a stew-pan. 
 The instant they begin to boil, take them from the fire ; 
 skim them, and then turn into a colander that has been 
 placed over a bowl. Pour off one pint of the strained 
 liquor, being careful not to get any sand in it. Now put 
 five spoonfuls of the butter in a stew-pan and on the fire. 
 When the butter is melted, add the onion and mush- 
 rooms. Cook for five minutes, stirring all the while, 
 and being careful not to brown the mixture. Now add 
 the flour, and stir until the mixture is frothy. Draw the 
 saucepan back to a cooler part of the stove, and grad- 
 ually add the pint of strained liquor. Stir until it boils, 
 and then simmer for three minutes. Add the yolks of 
 the eggs, well beaten, the oysters, and the seasonings, 
 and take the pan from the fire. Turn the mixture into 
 an escalop dish. Cover with the grated crumbs, and dot 
 these with the remaining table-spoonful of butter. Bake 
 in a moderately hot oven for twenty minutes. 
 
 This dish is suitable for an entree or for a supper 
 dish. 
 
 Oysters a la Villeroi. 
 
 For six persons use two dozen large oysters, half a 
 pint of chicken or veal stock, two large table-spoonfuls 
 of butter, two of flour, three eggs, one table-spoonful of 
 lemon juice, one-third of a teaspoonful of pepper, and 
 some salt and dried bread crumbs. 
 
 Put the oysters in a stew-pan with the chicken stock, 
 and place on the fire. As soon as they boil, take them 
 from the fire and skim them. Now turn them into a 
 colander which is placed over a bowl, to save the liquor. 
 
 Mix the butter and flour together in a saucepan. Add 
 a cupful and a half of the oyster liquor, and place the 
 mixture on the fire. Stir all the time until it boils ; then 
 set it back, and let it simmer for three minutes. 
 
218 MISS PABLO A'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Beat the yolks of two eggs well, and add to them two 
 table-spoonfuls of the cool oyster liquor. Stir this into 
 the sauce, and cook for one minute, being careful to stir 
 all the while and not to let it boil. Take from the fire, 
 and add the lemon juice ; also season with salt and pep- 
 per, and then set away to cool. Beat well one whole 
 egg and the white of another. Add half a teaspoonful 
 of salt, and beat a little longer. Now season the drained 
 oysters with salt and pepper. Dip them one by one in 
 the cooled sauce, being careful to cover every part with 
 it. As each oyster comes from the sauce, roll it lightly 
 in the bread crumbs. When all have been treated in 
 this way, dip them in the beaten egg and then roll again 
 in the bread crumbs. Fry in fat for a minute and a 
 half. Arrange on a warm napkin, and garnish with 
 quartered lemons and parsley. Serve Bechamel or to- 
 mato sauce with them, if they are served for an entree, 
 but if they are for a supper dish there should be no 
 sauce. 
 
 When these oysters are being " sauced " and breaded, 
 two may be fastened together with the sauce, if you 
 prefer them that way. 
 
 Oyster Kabobs. 
 
 Use the same materials as for oysters a la Villeroi, 
 but with the addition of four table- spoonfuls of fine- 
 chopped mushrooms, half a teaspoonful of minced pars- 
 ley, and one teaspoonful of onion juice. When the butter 
 and flour are mixed for the sauce, add these new ingredi- 
 ents with the oyster liquor. 
 
 When the oysters are covered with the sauce, string 
 five or six on a steel or silver skewer, and then roll in 
 crumbs. Next cover with egg, and again with crumbs. 
 Fry, and serve on slices of toast, with a garnish of 
 parsley. 
 
FISH. 219 
 
 * Oysters Cooked in a Chafing-dish. 
 
 This way of cooking oysters is popular with gentle- 
 men. The combinations may be varied to suit different 
 tastes. Here are a few simple methods of preparing 
 the dish : 
 
 Put into the chafing-dish one solid pint of oysters, two 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, one scant teaspoonful of salt, 
 and a little cayenne. Light the lamp, and cook the oys- 
 ters, stirring often, until they curl on the edges. Serve 
 at once on slices of buttered toast. 
 
 Another way is to add one table-spoonful of lemon 
 juice and the yolks of two well-beaten eggs to the oys- 
 ters as soon as the edges begin to curl. Stir for half a 
 minute and serve on toast. 
 
 Still another way is to add a gill of cream or milk to 
 the oysters as soon as they begin to curl. Stir until they 
 boil once more. 
 
 * Roast Clams. 
 
 When possible, get the clams ten hours or even a day 
 before they are to be cooked. Wash them in an "ample 
 quantity of clear water ; then just cover them with fresh 
 water, and for each peck of clams, sprinkle in one cup- 
 ful of corn meal. This will make them plump and ten- 
 der. Bear in mind that a peck will make only about 
 a quart when shelled. When it is time to cook the clams, 
 be sure that the oven is very hot. Einse the clams, and 
 drain them in a colander for a few minutes ; then spread 
 them in an old dripping-pan, and put the pan into a hot 
 oven. As soon as the shells begin to open, the clams will 
 be found to be cooked ; this will be in from five to eight 
 minutes. Have at hand a deep dish, well warmed, and 
 drop the clams into it as soon as they have been removed 
 from the shells. Spread sauce over them, and serve with 
 thin slices of buttered brown bread. 
 
220 MISS PABLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 To make the sauce, put three table-spoonfuls of butter 
 into a warm bowl and beat it to a cream ; then stir into 
 it one table-spoonful of lemon juice, one teaspoonful of 
 salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of white pepper, and 
 very little cayenne. 
 
 *Here is another receipt: Scrub the shells with a 
 brush, and wash them in several waters j then drain well. 
 Spread in a large dripping-pan, and put the pan in a very 
 hot oven. As soon as the shells open say in ten or 
 twelve minutes the clams should be served either in 
 the whole shell or half the shell. Quarters of lemon, 
 butter, salt, and pepper, and toasted brown bread should 
 be served with them. 
 
 * Stewed Clams. 
 
 Use about a quart of shelled clams, one table-spoonful 
 of flour, two table-spoonfuls of butter, half a pint of 
 milk, about one teaspoonful of salt, and one-fourth of a 
 teaspoonful of pepper. Put the milk on the stove in a 
 double-boiler. Put the clams into a colander, and pour 
 a quart of cold water over them. This washes them suf- 
 ficiently. Do not let them drain, but put them into a 
 stew-pan immediately. Add the milk as soon as it be- 
 gins to boil. Beat the flour and butter together until 
 creamy ; and when the clams begin to boil, put the 
 creamy mixture into the stew-pan. Add the seasoning, 
 and let the clams simmer for two minutes. Lay some 
 toasted bread or crackers on the bottom of a deep dish, 
 and pour the stew upon them. 
 
 Deviled Scallops. 
 
 Use for this dish a quart of scallops, half a cupful of 
 butter, one teaspoonful of made mustard, one teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, one 
 
FISH. 221 
 
 cupful of white stock (chicken or veal), and a cupful of 
 cracker crumbs. 
 
 Put the scallops on the stove in a saucepan, and heat 
 them just to the boiling-point in their own liquor ; then 
 drain them, saving the liquor, and chop them rather fine. 
 Reserve a spoonful of the butter, and, putting the re- 
 mainder into a warm bowl, beat it to a cream ; then add 
 the seasoning, beating it in thoroughly. Now add the 
 stock, hot. Stir the chopped scallops and their liquor 
 into this sauce, and let them stand for half an hour. At 
 the end of that time put them into an escalop dish or in 
 shells. Sprinkle with crumbs, dot with the table-spoon- 
 ful of butter, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty 
 minutes. Serve immediately. 
 
 Scallops Fried in Batter. 
 
 Make a batter of a pint of flour, two eggs, one table- 
 spoonful of salad oil (or a table-spoonful of butter, if you 
 have no oil), one teaspoonful of salt, and nearly half a 
 pint of milk. Beat the eggs until light, and, after add- 
 ing the milk to them, pour the mixture upon the flour. 
 Beat vigorously for two or three minutes ; then add the 
 salt and oil. Drain a quart of scallops, and season with 
 salt and pepper. Drop them into the batter, and then 
 drop spoonfuls of scallops and batter into boiling fat. 
 Cook for three minutes. Drain, and serve at once. 
 
 * Fried Scallops. 
 
 Drain two dozen scallops carefully, and after season- 
 ing them with salt and pepper, roll them lightly in fine 
 bread crumbs. Beat two eggs in a soup-plate, with a 
 spoon or fork, and after dipping the scallops in the egg, 
 roll them in a quantity of crumbs and lay them on a large 
 platter. Be careful that they do not touch each other. 
 When all have been breaded, place in the frying-basket 
 as many as can be accommodated on the bottom, and 
 
222 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 plunge into boiling fat. Cook for two minutes, and serve 
 with toast and cabbage or celery salad. Tartar sauce 
 also is a good accompaniment. 
 
 Care must be taken that the. fish are thoroughly sea- 
 soned with salt previous to the breading, and that the fat 
 is so hot that blue smoke rises from the centre. 
 
 Soft-shell Crabs. 
 
 If the following directions be followed carefully, it 
 will not be a difficult task to clean soft-shell crabs. The 
 back of the crab is of greenish color, and feels to the 
 touch somewhat like a piece of thin, stiff rubber. At 
 each end it tapers to a very sharp point. Now, having 
 the crab in its natural position, take one of these points 
 between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, press- 
 ing the back at the same time with the second finger, 
 and bend the shell back about half-way, keeping the crab 
 on the plate all the while. There will then be exposed 
 a spongy substance shaped like a scallop shell. Scrape, 
 and, if necessary, cut, this sponge entirely away, and 
 then repeat the operation at the other point of the back. 
 Next turn the crab over, and when it lies on its back 
 there will be seen a semi-circular piece of soft shell, at 
 once noticeable because of its dark color. This is com- 
 monly called the "apron," or "flap." It finishes in a 
 point. Take this point between the finger and thumb, 
 and raise the apron, pulling or cutting it off of the crab. 
 Some of the spongy substance already described will be 
 found here, and should be removed. Wash in cold water, 
 and wipe gently with a soft towel. The crab will then 
 be ready for its seasoning, preparatory to cooking. 
 
 Fried Soft-shell Crabs. 
 
 After seasoning the crabs with salt and pepper, dip 
 in beaten egg and afterward in dry bread crumbs. Fry 
 in hot fat until they acquire a rich brown color, say 
 
FISH. 228 
 
 for about three minutes, and serve at once with Tartar 
 sauce. 
 
 Baked Crabs. 
 
 After cleaning the crabs and seasoning them with salt 
 and pepper, dip them in melted butter and sprinkle 
 thickly with dry bread crumbs. Put them into a drip- 
 ping-pan, and set them into an intensely hot oven for five 
 minutes. Serve immediately with mustard cream sauce. 
 
 Broiled Soft-shell Crabs. 
 
 Clean the crabs, and season with salt and pepper. 
 For eight, melt half a cupful of butter in a deep plate. 
 Add two table-spoonfuls of lemon juice and one-fourth 
 of a teaspoonful of cayenne. Roll the crabs in this 
 liquid and then in dry flour. Place them in a double- 
 broiler, and cook over hot coals for eight minutes. Serve 
 with Dutch sauce. 
 
 Deviled Crabs. 
 
 Use one pint of crab meat (a dozen good-sized crabs 
 will supply this quantity), a generous half -pint of white 
 stock, four table-spoonfuls of butter, one scant table- 
 spoonful of flour, one teaspoonful of mustard, one-fourth 
 of a teaspoonful of cayenne, two level teaspoonfuls of 
 salt, one table-spoonful of lemon juice, and a pint and a 
 half of grated stale bread crumbs. Pick the crab meat 
 from the shells. Wash and wipe the shells. Put the 
 stock in a small saucepan. Mix the flour, mustard, and 
 two table-spoonfuls of the butter. Stir this mixture into 
 the boiling stock. Boil for two minutes, and on taking 
 from the fire, add the crab meat and seasonings. Mix well, 
 and then put the mixture into the crab shells. Sprinkle 
 the bread crumbs over these, and then dot with the two 
 remaining table- spoonfuls of butter. Arrange the shells 
 in a large baking-pan, and cook in a rather hot oven until 
 the crumbs get browned. The pan must have a grate 
 
224 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 under it, so that the heat shall not be great at the bottom. 
 The crumbs should become brown in ten or twelve min- 
 utes. Cover the bottom of a large dish with parsley. 
 Arrange the crabs on this, and serve at once. 
 
 Lobster, prawn, and shrimp may be prepared in the 
 same manner. 
 
 Canned crab meat may be used for this dish. 
 
 * Curry of Lobster. 
 
 Cut into pieces about two inches square the meat of a 
 lobster weighing about three pounds, and after seasoning 
 with salt and one-fifth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, set it 
 away in a cold place. Put three table-spoonfuls of butter 
 into a frying-pan, and when it has become hot, add two 
 table-spoonfuls of flour and a small teaspoonful of curry 
 powder. Stir the mixture until it is brown ; then grad- 
 ually add a cupful and a half of stock, and season with 
 salt and pepper. Add the lobster, and cook six minutes 
 longer. Place small slices of crisp toast upon a warm 
 dish, and pour the curry upon them. Garnish with 
 triangles of toast and bits of parsley. 
 
 If the flavor of onion be liked, fry a small onion in 
 the butter before adding the flour and curry-powder; 
 but in this case strain the sauce before the lobster is put 
 with it. 
 
 * Fricassee of Lobster. 
 
 Here is a good mode of preparing a lobster weighing 
 two and a half or three pounds. Besides the fish there 
 will be needed a pint of white stock or water, two table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, two of flour, one of lemon juice, a 
 teaspoonful of chopped onion, a tiny bit of mace, a sprig 
 of parsley, and salt and pepper to suit the taste. 
 
 Remove the meat from the shell of the lobster, and cut 
 it into small cubes. Put the torn-alley, or green liver, with 
 it ; and after seasoning with salt and pepper, put all into 
 a deep saucepan, and set aside. Put the onion, mace, 
 
FISH. 225 
 
 parsley, and butter into a frying-pan, and cook slowly for 
 five minutes j then add the flour, and stir constantly 
 until smooth and frothy. Draw the pan back, and grad- 
 ually add the stock. Boil gently for three minutes j and 
 after adding the lemon juice and some salt and pepper, 
 strain the liquid upon the lobster. Cook the dish for 
 eight minutes, and serve with boiled rice or dry toast. 
 
 When it is inconvenient to use stock, milk, or half 
 cream and half water, may be substituted. In this case 
 the lemon juice must not be added until the last moment, 
 because it wouldf curdle the sauce if boiled with it. 
 
 Lobster Newburg. 
 
 If provision is to be made for six or eight persons, use 
 the meat of a lobster weighing about four pounds, or that 
 of two small lobsters, four table-spoonfuls of butter, two 
 of brandy, two of sherry, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one- 
 fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, half a pint of cream, 
 the yolks of four eggs, and a slight grating of nutmeg. 
 
 Cut the meat of the lobster into small, delicate slices. 
 Put the butter on the stove in a frying-pan, and when it 
 becomes hot, put in the lobster. Cook slowly for five 
 minutes ; then add the salt, pepper, sherry, brandy, and 
 nutmeg, and simmer five minutes longer. Meanwhile 
 beat the yolks of the eggs well, and add the cream to 
 them. Pour the liquid over the cooking mixture, and stir 
 constantly for one minute and a half. Take from the 
 fire immediately at the end of that time, and serve in a 
 warm dish. 
 
 Lobster Newburg may be served as a fish course in a 
 dinner or luncheon. A garnish of triangular bits of puff 
 paste may be added, or the lobster may be served on 
 toast. No mode of cooking lobster gives a more delicate 
 or elegant dish. Special care must be taken to stir the 
 mixture constantly after the cream and beaten eggs are 
 poured over the lobster until the frying-pan is taken 
 from the fire. 
 
 16 
 
226 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Lobster Cutlets. 
 
 For one dozen cutlets use one pint of lobster meat 
 chopped rather fine, half a pint of cream or chicken stock, 
 a generous table-spoonful of flour, three table-spoonfuls 
 of butter, one of lemon juice, one-fourth of a teaspoonful 
 of white pepper, one-sixth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, 
 one level table-spoonful of salt, four eggs, some crumbs 
 for breading, and the tips of twelve of the small claws. 
 
 Mix the salt and pepper with the chopped lobster. 
 Put the cream or stock on to boil. Mix the flour and 
 butter, and stir into the boiling cream. Cook for one 
 minute, stirring all the while. Now add the lobster. 
 Stir well, and cook for three minutes. Next add two of 
 the eggs, well beaten. Stir quickly, and take from the 
 fire instantly. Stir in the lemon juice, and spread the 
 mixture on a platter to cool. When it is cold, sprinkle 
 a board with fine bread crumbs, and put a soup-plate full 
 of crumbs on one corner of the board. Beat two eggs in 
 a second soup-plate. Butter a cutlet-mould, and sprinkle 
 it generously with fine crumbs. Pack it full of the pre- 
 pared lobster. Turn the cutlet out on the board, and 
 line the mould again with crumbs, proceeding as before. 
 
 When all the cutlets have been formed, cover them 
 with the beaten egg and crumbs. Now stick a small 
 claw into the small end of each cutlet. Fry for about a 
 minute and a half. Drain on brown paper, and arrange 
 in a circle on a warm napkin, putting a teaspoonful of 
 Tartar sauce in the centre of each cutlet. Or they may 
 be arranged on a warm dish, and anchovy sauce be 
 poured around them. 
 
 Shrimps Baked in Bell Peppers. 
 
 Use for this dish one dozen green bell peppers, one 
 quart of picked shrimps, one teacupful of grated bread 
 crumbs, two table-spoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful 
 of mixed mustard, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, 
 
FISH. 227 
 
 one-eighth of a teaspoonful of celery seed, a slight grat- 
 ing of nutmeg, one egg, and some salt, unless the fish 
 themselves be salty. 
 
 Cut the stem ends from the peppers, and then cut out 
 the seeds and veins, the " hot " parts. Soak the 
 cleaned peppers in cold water for half an hour. 
 
 Beat the butter to a cream, and then beat into it the 
 seasonings and the egg. Next add the crumbs. Mix 
 these ingredients well, and add them to the shrimp. 
 
 Drain .the peppers at the end of the half-hour, and 
 stuff them with the prepared shrimp. Arrange them in 
 a pan with the open side up. Cook in a hot oven for 
 twenty minutes. 
 
 This dish may be served as an entree or as a fish 
 course in a dinner or luncheon. Crabs may be prepared 
 in the same manner as shrimp. 
 
 Escaloped Shrimps. 
 
 If there be half a dozen persons in the family, use a 
 quart of shelled shrimps, a pint of cream, two table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, one table-spoonful of flour, one-fifth 
 of a teaspoonful of cayenne, one pint of grated bread 
 crumbs, and salt and pepper to suit the taste. 
 
 Rinse the shrimps in cold water, and sprinkle them 
 with salt and pepper, using about a generous teaspoonful 
 of salt and a fourth as much pepper. Put the cream on 
 the stove in the double-boiler. Rub the flour and butter 
 together until creamy ; and when the pint of cream be- 
 gins to boil, stir this mixture into it. Add the cayenne, 
 some salt, and the shrimps, and taste the mixture to 
 satisfy yourself that there is seasoning enough. Turn 
 into one large escalop dish or several small shells. 
 There will be fish and sauce enough to fill a dozen of 
 the common-sized plated or china shells. Cover with 
 the bread crumbs, place in a pan, and set in a hot oven. 
 It will take about a quarter of an hour to cook them. 
 
228 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 The pan should be raised from the bottom of the oven, 
 so that the top of the dish shall be subjected to greater 
 heat than the bottom ; the object being to brown the 
 crumbs without letting the sauce get so hot as to bubble. 
 When it is possible to brown the dish under the grate or 
 in a gas-broiler, it is better to do that than to put the 
 dish into the oven, if the shrimps are to be cooked in 
 the shell. Great or long-continued heat at the bottom is 
 apt to make the dish less creamy, and to mar its appear- 
 ance by causing the sauce to boil over at the edge. This 
 is true of all escaloped dishes. 
 
 Terrapin. 
 
 One of the most popular dishes at fashionable dinners 
 and suppers is terrapin stew. Gentlemen usually are 
 especially fond of it. In some parts of the country only 
 the rich can indulge in it ; but as the fish are abundant 
 in many sections at some seasons, it is well that more 
 should be known about them. 
 
 Terrapin are found from Ehode Island to the Gulf of 
 Mexico. They vary considerably in size and quality in 
 different localities. In the fall and winter the finest 
 cost from twenty-five to fifty dollars a dozen in the 
 Northern markets ; at times, however, they may be had 
 for about one-fourth of that sum. In the South they are 
 comparatively cheap, and are usually larger than those 
 found in the Northern markets. In winter terrapin 
 often are kept in pens for weeks or months. The flesh 
 is not so good after such captivity. Rough, hard spots 
 will be found upon the under shells of terrapin that 
 have been penned. The female is the more desirable, 
 being larger and tenderer. 
 
 There are two modes of killing terrapin. In the 
 North, if the fish be small, the common way is to plunge 
 them into boiling water, like lobsters. In the South the 
 heads are cut off and the fish put in cold water for about 
 
FISH. 229 
 
 half an hour, in order to draw out the blood. After boil- 
 ing the terrapin, the work is finished in much the same 
 way everywhere. The time of boiling varies with the 
 age of the fish. If they be very young they may be 
 cooked in half an hour, but when old they require about 
 two hours' cooking to make them tender. Here is a 
 good rule for cooking and cleaning: 
 
 If the large Southern terrapin be used, let the fish 
 lie in cold water for half an hour; then drop it into 
 boiling water, and cook for ten minutes. Pour off the 
 water, and after covering the terrapin with fresh cold 
 water for a minute, take it up and with a towel rub 
 the nails and black skin from the legs. Wash care- 
 fully, and place in a stew-pan with boiling water enough 
 to cover. Cook until the flesh is tender, which will be 
 until the joints of the legs can be broken with a slight 
 pressure. The shell also will separate easily. 
 
 Take the terrapin from the water and let it cool a 
 little. Place it on its back, with the head away from 
 you. Loosen and remove the under shell. The liver, 
 gall-bladder, and sand-bag will be found near the head ; 
 the gall-bladder attached to the left side of the liver. 
 Take out this bladder, as you would from a chicken ; also 
 take out the sand-bag. Now cut off the head and throw 
 it away. All that remains is to be used. 
 
 Take out the eggs, and remove a slight film that sur- 
 rounds them ; then drop them into cold water. Out all 
 the meat very fine; the intestines finer than any other 
 part. Save the water that collects in the shells. The 
 terrapin will now be ready for use in a stew or in other 
 
 ways. 
 
 v ' , : 
 
 Terrapin White Stew. 
 
 For six persons use two large terrapins, three table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, one pint of cream, two gills of 
 sherry or Madeira, one gill of water, the yolks of six 
 hard-boiled eggs, half a lemon, two level teaspoonfuls of 
 
230 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 salt, one-tenth of a teaspoonful each of cayenne, white 
 pepper, ground mace, and allspice. 
 
 Put the fine-cut terrapin in a stew-pan with the water, 
 butter, the juices that have collected in the shells, and 
 the salt, pepper, and spice. Simmer for fifteen minutes. 
 Mash the yolks of the eggs very fine, and gradually mix 
 the cream with them. Add this mixture and the sherry, 
 terrapin, eggs, and the lemon, cut in thin slices, to the 
 stew. Stir until the stew has become thoroughly heated, 
 but do not let it boil. Serve at once. 
 
 Small silver-plated saucepans that hold about a gill 
 and a half are used for serving terrapin stew. One kind 
 is shaped like a terrapin; the other is round, with a 
 straight handle and tight-fitting cover. When terrapin 
 is served in these miniature stew-pans, it" is, of course, 
 sure to be hot, a great consideration as regards this 
 dish. 
 
 Terrapin Brown Stew. 
 
 Use two large terrapins, a generous half-cupful of 
 butter, one pint of the water in which the terrapins were 
 boiled, two heaping table-spoonfuls of flour, half a pint 
 of wine, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one-eighth of a tea- 
 spoonful each of cayenne, white pepper, ground mace, 
 and allspice, half a lemon, sliced thin. 
 
 Put the terrapin water and meat of the terrapins on to 
 boil. Put the butter in a saucepan, and heat it until it 
 begins to turn brown; then add the flour, and stir the 
 mixture until it becomes dark brown. Take it from the 
 fire, and when it has cooled a little, pour on it gradually 
 the water from the terrapins. Stir the liquid over the 
 fire until perfectly smooth; then pour it over the ter- 
 rapins. Add the salt and pepper, and simmer for ten 
 minutes. Now add the spice, lemon, and wine. Let the 
 stew get very hot, without boiling; then serve without 
 delay. 
 
FISH. 231 
 
 Terrapin au Gratin. 
 
 Take two terrapins, half a cupful of butter, two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, three eggs, two teaspoonfuls of salt, 
 half a pint of the water in which the terrapins were 
 cooked, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of white pepper, one- 
 tenth of a teaspoonful each of cayenne, mace, and all- 
 spice, one cupful of grated bread crumbs. 
 
 Put the butter on the stove in a stew-pan, and when it 
 becomes hot, add the flour. Stir the mixture until it is 
 smooth and of a light brown color ; then add the water 
 and the terrapin and seasoning. Simmer for a quarter 
 of an hour. 
 
 Beat the eggs well, and add a table-spoonful of cold 
 water to them. Draw the stew-pan back to a cool place, 
 and stir the eggs into its contents. Have the upper 
 shells of the terrapins carefully cleaned, and pour the 
 mixture into them. Sprinkle with bread crumbs, and 
 place in a hot oven to brown. The crumbs should 
 acquire a rich color in about ten minutes. 
 
 
232 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING 
 MEAT. 
 
 WERE it possible to teach every housekeeper how to 
 boil, roast, and broil meat properly, one might be satis- 
 fied that a most successful life-work had been accom- 
 plished. In ninety out of a hundred households, grades 
 of meat, from the choicest to the coarsest pieces, are 
 rained every day in the week. About half the house- 
 keepers are conscious of this, and it frets them from day 
 to day, but not enough to rouse them to take steps toward 
 changing the condition of things. The other half know 
 no better, and go on from year to year giving their fami- 
 lies meat cooked in such a manner that it is neither 
 nutritious nor digestible. Most wives and mothers are 
 anxious to do that which is best for their families. If 
 they could be brought to see the waste of material and 
 what is more important the impairment of health, and 
 consequent loss of happiness, which improperly cooked 
 food causes, they would make constant efforts to bring 
 about a better state of things. A little thought and study 
 would show where the fault lies, and also what the rem- 
 edy is. A few general principles cover the whole subject 
 of boiling, roasting, and broiling. Once understanding 
 these, a housekeeper can 3/pply them to the cooking of 
 all kinds of meat. 
 
 There are three things to keep in mind when cooking 
 a piece of meat. It should be so cooked that it will be 
 juicy, well-flavored, and as tender as possible. Now, 
 when albumen and fibrine are exposed to a temperature 
 much higher than the boiling-point, they become hard 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 233 
 
 and indigestible, as, for example, if we put an egg into 
 boiling water and continue the boiling for four or five 
 minutes, we shall find that the white has become hard, 
 unyielding, and indigestible j but if we put the egg into 
 boiling water, and let it stand in a warm place for ten 
 or more minutes, we shall find that the white is soft 
 and creamy, and therefore digestible. If we should let 
 the egg stand in water just below the boiling-point for 
 an hour or more, we should find that the white would 
 yield under a slight pressure, and still be soft and 
 digestible. 
 
 The white of the egg, being pure albumen, hardens 
 when exposed to a temperature above the boiling-point, 
 but remains soft when kept just below this temperature. 
 Meat is largely made up of albumen and fibrine. Heat, 
 when as great as that of boiling water, hardens and 
 shrinks fibrine ; but if the heat be less than boiling, and 
 be continued with moisture for a long time, it will soften 
 the toughest piece of meat. 
 
 Now, understanding these principles, there need be 
 no mistake in cooking meat : First, heat, when greater 
 than the boiling-point in water, hardens and shrinks 
 meat ; but when meat is kept at the boiling-point for 
 a long time, it is made tender, provided always that 
 there is plenty of moisture. Second, meat, when to be 
 roasted or boiled, must be exposed for the first fifteen 
 or twenty minutes to a greater heat than the boiling- 
 point, that the surface may become hardened and a crust 
 be formed to keep in the juices. Third, the heat 
 must not be lower than the boiling-point while the meat 
 is cooking, that temperature being necessary for the 
 development of the proper flavor. 
 
 From this we see that the meat must first be subjected 
 to a high temperature to close the pores on the surface, 
 and as soon as this is accomplished the temperature must 
 be lowered to the boiling-point (212), and kept at that 
 degree until the cooking is done. 
 
234 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 BOILING. 
 
 For all meats except ham, corned beef, and salt tongue, 
 the water should be boiling when the meat is put in, and 
 when the water begins to boil again (it will be cooled 
 somewhat when the meat is put in), skim it, and keep it 
 at the boiling-point for fifteen or twenty minutes. At 
 the end of that time draw the kettle back where there is 
 only enough heat to keep the water at the boiling-point. 
 If the water bubbles a little, it is about right for cooking 
 meat. A leg of mutton weighing ten or twelve pounds 
 will be cooked moderately rare in two hours. A turkey 
 of about the same weight will require cooking for three 
 hours and a half, unless it happens to be very tough, 
 when it will require an hour longer to make it tender. 
 
 A piece of corned beef will take five hours to cook, no 
 matter how small the piece may be. If it should weigh 
 more than eight pounds, give it an extra hour. It will 
 be improved by letting it partially cool in the water in 
 which it was boiled. This is true of all boiled meats 
 that are to be used cold. Ham and smoked tongue 
 should be soaked in cold water for twelve hours, and 
 should then be boiled from five to six hours. Fowls 
 take from two to four hours to cook. 
 
 If these directions be followed, every piece of boiled 
 meat that comes to the table will be found tender and 
 juicy. It will cut smooth ; whereas meat that has been 
 boiled rapidly will break into long shreds when you at- 
 tempt to cut it, and will be found hard and flavorless. 
 We are all too well acquainted with this kind of boiled 
 and roasted meats. It is time that such waste of good 
 materials should cease. 
 
 ROASTING. 
 
 There are three modes of roasting, before the fire, in 
 a tin-kitchen ; under a sheet of flame, in a gas-stove ; or 
 
VAKIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 235 
 
 in the oven of an ordinary stove or range. The last- 
 named mode is inferior to either of the others ; still, as 
 the oven is always available, while the first two modes 
 may not be, the greater part of the roasting of meat is 
 done in a close oven. Some ovens are so arranged that 
 the side next the fire can be opened, thus exposing the 
 meat to the clear coals ; others are so constructed that 
 there is a constant circulation of fresh air through them, 
 giving one of the elements which we get by roasting 
 with an open fire or with gas. 
 
 General Rules. 
 
 No matter how the roasting is done, a few things must 
 always be borne in mind. The heat should be great at 
 first, so that the surface of the meat shall be hardened, 
 to retain the juices ; but it should afterward be de- 
 
 Beef in Baking-pan. 
 
 creased, so that the meat shall cook more slowly and 
 evenly. The meat should be raised at least two inches 
 from the bottom of the baking-pan. There are racks 
 made expressly for keeping it at the proper height. 
 
 Wipe the meat with a damp towel, and then dredge it 
 lightly with salt, pepper, and flour. After sprinkling a 
 quantity of salt and flour on the bottom of the pan, put 
 the meat into the oven. Watch carefully, and when the 
 
236 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 dry flour in the pan turns a dark brown, put in just 
 enough water to cover the bottom of the pan. After the 
 meat has become browned it should be basted every 
 quarter of an hour with the gravy in the pan and then 
 with salt and flour. Always use considerable gravy, and 
 dredge only lightly with salt and flour. The water in 
 the pan should be renewed frequently. Let the water 
 cook away in the last half-hour, so that there shall be 
 only fat and sediment in the bottom of the pan when 
 the meat is done. When it is done, lay it on a warm 
 platter. 
 
 After lifting the rack from the pan, pour off the fat, 
 and scrape the sediment from the sides and bottom of 
 the pan. Place on the stove in the same pan, adding a 
 cupful of hot water ; and when it has boiled up once, 
 stir in a thickening consisting of a teaspoonful of flour 
 and three table-spoonfuls of water. Pour in only a little 
 of this thickening at a time, for it is impossible to sta^e 
 exactly how much will be required for thickening the 
 gravy. Let the gravy boil up once ; then season with 
 salt and pepper, and strain into a hot dish. 
 
 Basting the meat faithfully makes it much juicier and 
 better flavored than when it is basted only occasionally. 
 Many cooks do not believe in basting at all, and others 
 simply moisten the meat with hot water. The result of 
 such treatment is not perfectly satisfactory. 
 
 Time of Cooking. 
 
 The time of cooking depends as much upon the shape 
 of the piece of meat as upon the weight. 
 
 Of beef, a rib or loin roast weighing about eight 
 pounds will require an hour's cooking if it be wished 
 very rare, and an hour and a half, if you wish it to be a 
 dark red all through. A roast cut from the round or the 
 rump of beef will take half an hour longer than that 
 cut from the loin or ribs. 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 237 
 
 A leg of mutton weighing ten or twelve pounds will 
 require an hour and a half ; a loin or rack, an hour and 
 a quarter ; a saddle, ten or fifteen minutes longer. Allow 
 ten minutes for every additional pound over eight or 
 ten. 
 
 Lamb must be cooked more than mutton. A leg 
 weighing six or eight pounds should be cooked for an 
 hour and a half. If the loin chops be left on, allow ten 
 minutes longer. The fore-quarter should be roasted for 
 an hour and twenty minutes. 
 
 Veal and pork must be thoroughly cooked. A loin of 
 veal should be roasted for two hours and three-quarters, 
 and a loin of pork, three hours. A leg or shoulder of 
 pork, which is sometimes roasted, requires five hours' 
 slow cooking. Many persons like a slight flavor of sage 
 with roast pork. In that case sift a teaspoonful of the 
 powdered herb over a piece of meat weighing six pounds, 
 when it is prepared for the oven. 
 
 BROILING. 
 
 This is one of the simplest forms of cookery, yet sel- 
 dom is it well done. A steak or chop, properly broiled, 
 should have a thin, well-browned crust. Beyond this 
 crust the meat should be red and juicy, hardly a shade 
 rarer at the centre than near the surface. The common 
 mode of cooking a steak is to keep it over the coals 
 until one side is rather well done ; then to turn it and 
 treat the other side in the same manner. The steak, 
 when cut into, will, if thick, be found well done about 
 one-third through on each side and almost raw in the 
 centre. 
 
 Clear Coals Needed for Broiling, 
 
 To broil properly there must be a bed of clear coals. 
 The meat must be placed in a double-broiler, and be 
 held near the clear coals for about one minute, then be 
 
238 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 turned, and cooked on the other side. Continue this 
 until the meat is well seared on both sides. It will take 
 about four minutes 7 cooking. Now lift the broiler a few 
 inches away from the great heat. Keep turning the 
 broiler constantly until the meat is cooked. 
 
 Time of Cooking Meats. 
 
 A beefsteak cut an inch thick will be cooked rare in 
 ten minutes. A mutton-chop cut three-fourths of an 
 inch thick will cook in eight minutes. 
 
 A chop or steak will be much richer flavored if it be 
 sprinkled with salt, pepper, and flour before cooking. 
 
 Always serve a steak or chop as soon as it is cooked. 
 Never put it in the oven or any other warm place to 
 melt the butter. The dish on which the broiled meat is 
 placed should be warm. The butter should be spread 
 over the hot meat, and not be melted in the dish. The 
 practice of melting butter either before or after it is put 
 on the steak, except as the heat of the meat melts it, 
 cannot be too strongly condemned. 
 
 Veal and pork must be broiled slowly and for a long 
 time. There should not be a trace of pink in the fibres 
 when the meat is done. The chops should not be cut 
 more than half an inch thick. The,y will be well done 
 with twelve minutes' cooking. 
 
 A chicken weighing three pounds will require slow 
 broiling for half an hour. It is a good plan to broil 
 chickens over a bright fire until they are a rich brown on 
 both sides, and then to put them in a shallow pan and 
 into a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Care must be 
 taken not to scorch the skin. 
 
 FRYING. * 
 
 Since many people fry much of their food, informa- 
 tion as to the best method of frying seems desirable. 
 The first thing to be considered is the fat. If expense 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 239 
 
 did not stand in the way, olive oil would be the best 
 liquid to use. Any pure, clear fat that is free of strong 
 odor will answer. Many folk use mutton and ham fat, 
 and say that they do not find the flavor of the meat in 
 the articles fried ; but others would discover the taste at 
 once and be disappointed. 
 
 But the housekeeper will select the fat she will use 
 according to her taste and means ; and attention may as 
 well be turned now to the conditions which will insure 
 satisfactory and comparatively wholesome fried food. In 
 the first place, the fat must be perfectly clarified. Even 
 the purest and sweetest butter must go through this pro- 
 cess before being used for frying. Oil and lard, when 
 pure, already are clarified. When the fat to be clarified 
 is that which has been skimmed from gravies, soups, or 
 the water in which corned beef has been boiled, it will 
 contain water and other impurities. While there is 
 water in fat the latter cannot be heated to a temperature 
 suitable for frying purposes ; and if there be other for- 
 eign substances present, such as particles of meat, gravy 
 flour, or starch, they will burn at as high a temperature 
 as 345, blackening the fat and making it unfit for frying 
 articles of food. 
 
 Processes of Clarifying. 
 
 As soon as the fat is skimmed it should be clarified, 
 as the water and other objectionable particles contained 
 in it will cause it to become rancid if it stands a long 
 time. Put it on the stove, in a frying-pan, and heat it 
 slowly. When it becomes melted, set it where it will 
 simply bubble, and keep it there (being careful not to 
 let it burn) until there is no motion and all the sediment 
 has fallen to the bottom of the pan. When this stage is 
 reached the fat is clarified. 
 
 Sometimes fat that has been used several times for 
 frying, and has not been strained, will become dark and 
 
240 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 unfit for use. This may be put into a kettle with about 
 six times as much hot water, boiled for twenty minutes, 
 turned into a large pan, and set in a cold place. When 
 the contents of the pan become cold, the fat will be found 
 in the form of a solid cake on the surface of the water. 
 It must be removed, and clarified in the manner already 
 described. 
 
 Then there is another kind of fat which is used a great 
 deal, the pieces taken from beef, chicken, veal, etc. 
 These should be cut fine, placed in a frying-pan, and 
 cooked slowly until all the oily particles are extracted. 
 Strain the liquid, and it will be ready for use. 
 
 To clarify butter, put it in a stew-pan and set it on 
 the back part of the range, where it will heat slowly. 
 When a clear, oily substance is found on top, and a 
 cloudy sediment at the bottom of the pan, lift the pan 
 gently and pour off the clear substance, which will be 
 the clarified butter. 
 
 How to Use Fat. 
 
 Having the fat in the proper condition for use, the 
 next question is, how to use it. Articles of food are 
 fried in fat that has been heated to a temperature vary- 
 iog from 345 to 400 Fahrenheit. Most mixtures com- 
 posed in part of flour, sugar, milk, or eggs like fritter 
 batters, doughnuts, etc. may be cooked at 350 ; where- 
 as such articles as oysters, white-bait, croquettes, etc., 
 require a heat of at least 400. 
 
 Put the fat into a deep kettle (that called a Scotch 
 kettle being best), and heat it slowly. When the time 
 for frying the food is near at hand, set the kettle on the 
 hottest part of the range, and watch to see the blue 
 smoke rise from the centre of the surface of the liquid. 
 The smoke indicates the temperature to be about 350. 
 Drop a piece of stale bread into the fat ; and if one 
 minute be required to brown it, the fat may be used 
 at once for frying muffins, doughnuts, fritters, breaded 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 241 
 
 chops, and, indeed, nearly all articles that require three 
 or four minutes' cooking. 
 
 Time of Cooking Various Articles. 
 
 Potatoes cooked a la parisienne, and French fried and 
 thin fried potatoes need ten minutes' cooking. The fat 
 must have a temperature of about 370 when they 
 are put into it, because the potatoes should stand in ice 
 water for some time before they are cooked. Moisture 
 will cling to them; and this, with their chilliness, 
 reduces the fat at least 20 as soon as the frying 
 begins, making it then 350. At this heat the pota- 
 toes may be cooked brown and crisp in ten minutes. As 
 already stated, oysters require a heat of 400. Drop a 
 piece of stale bread into the fat ; and if the temperature 
 be right, the bread will become brown in half a minute. 
 Oysters and white-bait should be cooked brown and crisp 
 in one minute ; longer cooking will make them rather 
 tough and dry. A little lower temperature say 380 
 will do for croquettes, which should be fried about 
 two minutes. If the temperature be too low, croquettes 
 will burst open during the cooking; particularly rice 
 and potato croquettes. 
 
 The Prying-basket. 
 
 An invention that is growing fast in favor is the 
 fry ing-basket. This is made of fine wire. After the 
 articles to be fried have been put into it, it should be 
 lowered into the fat; gently, because the particles of 
 moisture which cling to the food are instantly converted 
 into steam, and this would expand beneath the surface 
 and force some of the fat from the kettle if the basket 
 were lowered quickly. The operation may be performed 
 safely by hanging the basket on a long spoon or fork, 
 and then letting it settle gently in the fat. Do not 
 crowd into the basket the articles that are to be fried. 
 
242 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 When the food has been cooked as long as seems neces- 
 sary, lift the basket with the spoon or fork, and after 
 allowing the fat to drip from it, place it on a plate. 
 
 The Way to Lower the Frying-basket. 
 
 Remove the cooked articles, and lay them on brown paper 
 that has been spread on a warm pan. If properly cooked, 
 they will hardly stain the paper. 
 
 How to Keep Fat. 
 
 When the frying has been finished, take the fat from 
 the fire and let it cool slightly. Next place a piece of 
 cheese cloth in a colander or strainer, and after setting 
 this over a jar or pail, strain the fat through the cloth. 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 243 
 
 This straining never should be omitted ; for, with good 
 care, the same fat may be used several times, unless 
 doughnuts have been cooked in it. 
 
 What is Meant by "Hot" Fat. 
 
 It is a pity that the inexperienced cannot be told in 
 a word just what is meant by " hot " fat. The word 
 " boiling " is misleading ; many people would wait, if 
 that were used, to see the liquid in motion, as water is 
 when hot. Now, when fat contains no foreign sub- 
 stances, and the temperature does not rise above 400, 
 there is no motion at all. One must always wait until 
 the smoke rises from the centre of the fat before 
 beginning to do any frying ; and then, after applying 
 the bread test (see page 240), there can be no difficulty 
 in determining the proper degrees of heat for the various 
 articles to be fried. 
 
 BRAISING. 
 
 This mode of cooking is particularly adapted to pieces 
 of meat that are lacking in flavor or are tough. Braising 
 is a combination of stewing and baking. In the days 
 when ovens were not common the cooking was done by 
 placing the braising-pan on a warm plate and heaping 
 coals on the cover. This is the manner in which it is 
 still done in all small establishments in France. Brais- 
 ing in the oven is much easier, and the result is the 
 same. A deep pan, with a close-fitting cover, will 
 answer for this purpose ; but both pan and cover must 
 be made without solder. 
 
 It is usual, in braising, to use vegetables and herbs for 
 seasoning the meat and gravy; but if these flavors be not 
 liked they may be omitted. 
 
 *To Braise Five Pounds of Meat. 
 
 Spread in the braising-pan one-quarter of a pound of 
 salt pork, cut iji slices. Over this spread one gill each 
 
244 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 of chopped onion, carrot, turnip, and celery. Lay the 
 meat on this bed, and dredge well with salt, pepper, and 
 flour. Cover, and put in a moderately hot oven for half 
 an hour. At the end of that time add one pint and a 
 half of stock or water. Baste the meat with some of 
 this liquid, and dredge with salt, pepper, and flour. Cook 
 for four hours and a half, basting every fifteen minutes. 
 At the end of two hours add another pint of stock or 
 water; also mix half a cupful of cold water with two 
 table-spoonfuls of corn-starch, and stir this mixture into 
 the gravy. Cook the meat for the last half-hour without 
 a cover, as it should be a delicate brown. When done, 
 place it on a warm dish. Taste the gravy, to see if more 
 salt or pepper is required. Strain the gravy, and pour a 
 part of it over the meat. Send the remainder to the 
 table in a separate dish. 
 
 These directions cover the method of braising all kinds 
 of meat. The seasoning may be changed to suit indi- 
 vidual or family taste. Veal and liver are improved by 
 iihe addition of lemon juice to the gravy. 
 
 Dry meats are better for being larded on one side. If 
 one object to pork, four table-spoonfuls of butter or 
 drippings may be substituted for it. 
 
 If the flavor of herbs be liked, a bouquet of sweet 
 herbs may be added to the gravy the last hour of 
 cooking. 
 
 The time of cooking is the same for large or small 
 pieces of meat. The success of a braised dish depends 
 upon slow cooking. If the gravy be allowed to bubble, 
 the meat will not be cooked to perfection. It is a good 
 plan to have a grate or iron ring under the braising-pan. 
 
 * Beef Stew. 
 
 For this" stew use two pounds of the tough parts of 
 cold roast beef or beefsteak, about two ounces of the fat 
 meat, six potatoes, one onion, two slices each of turnip 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 245 
 
 and carrot, two table-spoonfuls of flour, about three tea 
 spoonfuls of salt, a level teaspoonful of pepper, and one 
 quart of boiling water. 
 
 Cut the fat into bits, and put it in a frying-pan and on 
 the fire. Cook slowly until there is only about two 
 table-spoonfuls of liquid fat. Now take the fibrous 
 pieces of fat from the pan, and add to the liquid fat the 
 onion, carrot, and turnip, all cut fine. Cook slowly for 
 ten minutes; then add the flour, stirring until it is 
 brown. Gradually add the water, stirring all the while, 
 and simmer for five minutes. 
 
 Cut the beef into small cubes, and put it into a large 
 stew-pan. Pour the contents of the frying-pan over the 
 meat. Add the salt and pepper. Place where the stew 
 will simmer for two hours. At the end of that time add 
 the six potatoes, pared and sliced. Draw the saucepan 
 forward where the contents will cook a little more 
 rapidly. Stir frequently. Taste to see if the stew 
 requires more salt and pepper. At the end of fifteen 
 minutes add some dumplings. Cover the stew-pan, and 
 cook for exactly ten minutes, counting from the time 
 the cover is placed on the pan. Take up the dumplings ; 
 then turn the stew out on a warm platter. Garnish with 
 the dumplings and bits of parsley. 
 
 Two pounds of the round of beef may be substituted 
 for the cold roast beef. 
 
 *Pot Roast. 
 
 A tough piece of meat can be made very savory and 
 tender by this mode of cooking. With a piece weighing 
 between six and seven pounds use the following-named 
 ingredients : three heaping teaspoonfuls of salt, half a 
 teaspoonful of pepper, two cloves, three table-spoonfuls 
 of flour, and one quart of water. 
 
 Wipe the meat with a damp cloth, and put it into an 
 iron pot. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Put over the 
 
246 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 fire and brown slowly, turning frequently. It will take 
 about half an hour for this cooking. When the meat 
 has been browned sufficiently, put half a pint of boiling 
 water into the pot, and cover closely. Set the pot where 
 its contents will simmer for four hours. As the water 
 steams away, add a little more boiling water, about 
 half a pint at a time. At the end of the four hours mix 
 the flour with half a pint of cold water. Take up the 
 meat, and skim the fat from the gravy in the pot. Turn 
 the flour and water into the gravy, and, placing the pot 
 in a hot place, stir the gravy until it boils. Cook for 
 five minutes. After satisfying yourself that the gravy 
 is seasoned to your taste, pour a small quantity over the 
 meat and serve the remainder in a dish. 
 
 Either boiled rice or potatoes should accompany the 
 roast, besides any other vegetables you choose. 
 
 * Savory Beef. 
 
 For this dish use four pounds of the round of beef, 
 one table-spoonful of sugar, three table-spoonfuls of 
 flour, two of butter, one table-spoonful and a half of salt, 
 half a teaspoonful of pepper, one-third of a teaspoonful 
 of cloves, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, one gill of vine- 
 gar, half an onion, one slice of carrot, two bay leaves, 
 and one quart of water. 
 
 Wipe the meat, and rub into it the salt, pepper, sugar, 
 and spice. Cut the onion into bits, and put half of it 
 and one bay leaf into the bottom of an earthen dish. 
 Next place the meat in the dish, and sprinkle the re- 
 mainder of the vegetables over it. Pour the vinegar 
 over the meat, and after laying the second bay leaf on 
 top, cover the dish closely and put it away in a cool 
 place. It should stand for forty-eight hours. In cold 
 weather it is a good plan to extend the time to three or 
 four days. 
 
 When ready to cook the meat, take it from the dish 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 247 
 
 and wipe it with a dry cloth. Put two table-spoonfuls 
 of butter in an iron pot, and place over the fire. When 
 it becomes hot, put in the meat. Cook until brown on 
 one side, and then turn and brown on the other ; after 
 which move the pot back where its contents will cook 
 slowly. 
 
 Mix the flour with one gill of cold water, and stir it 
 into a quart of boiling water, minus a gill. Let the mix- 
 ture boil for ten minutes ; then pour it over the beef. 
 Cover the pot closely, and set it where its contents will 
 simmer for five hours. The gravy must never more than 
 bubble. At the end of the five hours taste the gravy, to 
 ascertain whether there is enough seasoning. Serve the 
 meat on a warm dish with a little of the gravy poured 
 over it, and send the rest to the table in a separate dish. 
 This meat is nice either hot or cold. 
 
 * Rolled Flank of Beef, Cold. 
 
 Use three or four pounds of the thinnest part of the 
 flank. With a sharp knife remove the thin, dry skin 
 which will be found on one side of the flank. Wipe the 
 meat, and spread it on a board. If one part be very 
 much thicker than another, cut a thin slice from the 
 thick part and lay it on the thin. Sprinkle one table- 
 spoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of pepper over the 
 meat. 
 
 Make a dressing with one pint of cracker crumbs, a 
 generous half-pint of cold water, three table-spoonfuls 
 of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, one-third of a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, half a teaspoonful of powdered 
 thyme, half a teaspoonful of summer savory, and one 
 egg. Mix all the ingredients except the egg, and let 
 them stand for ten minutes. Now add the egg, well 
 beaten. Spread this dressing on the meat. Now roll 
 the meat firmly, and tie rather loosely with twine. Pin 
 it carefully in a piece of cloth, and after placing it in a 
 
248 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 stew-pan and covering it with boiling water, simmer it 
 for five hours. At the end of that time take it from the 
 fire, but let it stand in the hot water for half an hour. 
 On taking it from the water, remove the cloth, but do 
 not take off the strings. Place on a flat dish, putting 
 upon it a pan containing two bricks. Let the meat cool 
 under this pressure, and when it is cold, cut it in thin 
 slices. 
 
 The water in which the flank was boiled may be used 
 as the foundation for a tomato or vegetable soup. 
 
 * Rolled Flank of Beef, Hot. 
 
 Prepare and simmer the flank as directed for a cold 
 flank. When it has been cooking for four hours, put 
 in a stew-pan three table-spoonfuls of drippings or but- 
 ter, four table-spoonfuls of chopped onion, two each 
 of chopped carrot, turnip, and celery, and one sprig of 
 parsley. Cook slowly for half an hour. At the end of 
 that time add three table-spoonfuls of flour, and stir over 
 a hotter part of the fire until the mixture begins to brown. 
 Gradually add one generous pint of the water in which 
 the flank is cooking. Add, also, one teaspoonful of salt 
 and a little pepper. . Simmer for twenty minutes. Strain, 
 and skim off any fat there may be on the sauce. 
 
 Remove the cloth and string, and place the meat on a 
 warm dish. Pour the sauce over it, and serve. 
 
 This dish may be garnished with little mounds of 
 cooked turnip, carrot, potato, or any other vegetable that 
 is in season; or the rolled flank may be served with 
 tomato sauce. 
 
 * Hamburg Steaks. 
 
 Have the butcher chop two pounds of the round of 
 beef very fine. Season it with half a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and one of onion juice, 
 and after shaping into thin cakes, place in a broiler that 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 249 
 
 has been buttered slightly, and broil over a clear fire for 
 eight minutes. Serve on a hot dish. 
 
 Or, put four slices of fat salt pork into a frying-pan, 
 and when they have become crisp and brown, remove 
 them, and put the steaks into the fat. Fry for eight 
 minutes, and when they are cooked put them on a warm 
 platter. Into the fat remaining in the pan put a table- 
 spoonful of flour, and stir until brown ; then gradually 
 add a cupful of water, and after seasoning with salt and 
 pepper, boil for three minutes. Pour this gravy around 
 the steaks, and serve immediately. 
 
 * Savory Beef Collops. 
 
 Use one table-spoonful of flour, one of butter, one tea- 
 spoonful of chopped onion, one of chopped parsley, one 
 of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, and one 
 pound of lean uncooked beef, chopped rather fine, it 
 may be cut from the round, flank, or shoulder, and the 
 butcher probably will be willing to chop it for you. 
 
 Mix the meat, salt, pepper, flour, and chopped parsley. 
 Put the butter and onion in a frying-pan, and cook until 
 the onion turns a delicate brown ; then add the meat and 
 seasoning. Cook for five minutes, stirring all the while 
 with a fork, and separating the bits of meat during the 
 stirring. Serve very hot. This dish is nice for break- 
 fast, luncheon, or supper. 
 
 * Fricandelles. 
 
 For this dish there will be required one pound of fine- 
 chopped raw beef (that from the round is best), ono cup- 
 ful of dry bread crumbs and half a cupful of fresh ones, 
 half a cupful of meat stock or milk, a teaspoonful of 
 onion juice, a heaping teaspoonful of salt, a table-spoonful 
 of butter, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, and 
 one-eighth of a pound of fat salt pork. 
 
 Soak the fresh bread in the stock or milk foi two 
 
250 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 hours ; then mash it fine, and add it, together with the 
 seasoning, to the chopped beef. Melt the butter, and 
 add that also. Form the mixture into eight small cakes, 
 and roll these in the dried crumbs. 
 
 Cut the salt pork into thin slices, and fry until crisp ; 
 then remove it, and put the fricandelles into the boiling 
 fat. Brown quickly on both sides, and serve immediately 
 on a hot dish, using the slices of pork for garnishing. 
 Cold roast beef will answer for fricandelles, but it is not 
 so nice as raw meat. 
 
 * Shaved Frozen Beef. 
 
 This affords a pleasant change in winter. It is a dish 
 that can be served only in freezing weather. 
 
 Get a slice of round steak, cut thin. Roll it up tight, 
 and tie it in this position. Pin a thin napkin or piece 
 of cloth over this roll, and hang up where the meat will 
 freeze solid. When ready to cook the meat, shave off 
 thin slices, and season them with salt and pepper. Put 
 some butter on the fire in the fpying-pan, and when it 
 gets hot put in the shaved beef. Cook for four minutes, 
 stirring all the time with a fork. Turn into a hot dish, 
 and serve at once. 
 
 For one pound of meat use a large table-spoonful of 
 butter, a teaspoonful of salt, and one-fifth of a teaspoon- 
 ful of pepper. This is a good dish for breakfast, tea, or 
 luncheon. 
 
 * Beef Sausages. 
 
 Use three pounds of raw round of beef, one pound of 
 beef suet, one pint of cold water, a table-spoonful and a 
 half of salt, one-fifth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, half 
 a teaspoonful of white pepper, and one generous tea- 
 spoonful of sage. 
 
 Chop the beef and suet very fine. Add the seasoning 
 and the water, and mix thoroughly. Make into small 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 251 
 
 cakes, and dredge these with flour. Fry for six minutes, 
 and serve very hot. 
 
 * Macaroni-and-Meat Pie. 
 
 A quarter of a pound of macaroni will be needed for 
 this dish, as well as a quart of any kind of cold meat, a 
 table-spoonful of flour, two of butter, a cupful of bread 
 crumbs, and salt and pepper for seasoning to suit the 
 taste. 
 
 Boil the macaroni rapidly for twenty minutes in two 
 quarts of water. Eub the butter and flour together, and 
 gradually add to this paste one generous pint of the 
 water in which the macaroni was boiled. Season well 
 with salt and pepper. Put a layer of the macaroni into an 
 escalop dish, and season well. Cover with a part of the 
 sauce made of the butter, flour, and water, and then add 
 a layer of meat, well seasoned. Continue putting in 
 these alternate layers macaroni, sauce, meat, and sauce 
 until all the materials have been used. Cover the 
 last layer with the bread crumbs, and bake slowly for 
 half an hour. For the quantities of materials named, 
 the amount of seasoning required is about three tea- 
 spoonfuls of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
 . 
 
 * Beefsteak Pie. 
 
 The materials used are as follows : a quart of pieces 
 of cold steak, a gill of milk, a pint of water, half a dozen 
 potatoes, a slice of onion, two table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 one table-spoonful of flour, and salt and pepper in quan- 
 tities to suit the taste. 
 
 Peel the potatoes, and put them on to cook for half an 
 hour in boiling water, enough to cover. While they are 
 boiling, cut the meat into inch cubes. Put the butter 
 and onion into a frying-pan, and cook until the onion 
 turns a straw color ; then add the flour, and stir it until 
 it gets brown. Gradually add the water, and stir until 
 
252 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 it boils. Season with salt and pepper. Season the meat, 
 also, and put it into the stew-pan. Simmer for ten min- 
 utes, and then turn into a deep escalop dish, leaving at 
 least an inch of space at the top for the potatoes. When 
 the potatoes have cooked for half an hour, pour all the 
 water away from them, and mash them until fine and 
 light. Heat the gill of milk, and add it to the potato ; 
 and add also enough salt and pepper to give the mixture 
 a seasoning to your acceptance. Spread the potato in 
 the escalop dish, and cook in a hot oven for a quarter of 
 an hour. In that time the potato should turn a delicate 
 brown. Serve as soon as taken from the oven. 
 
 Any kind of cold roast meat or fish may be treated in 
 the same way as beefsteak. 
 
 * Shepherd's Pie. 
 
 Cut up enough cold roast beef to make a quart of 
 small, thin slices. Season the meat with salt and 
 pepper, and after putting it into a deep earthen dish, 
 pour over it a sauce made as follows : 
 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of butter into a frying-pan, and 
 when it has become hot, add two scant table-spoonfuls 
 of flour. Stir until this is dark brown, and then add a 
 pint of water. Season with salt and pepper, and boil 
 for three minutes. 
 
 Pare, boil, and mash eight good-sized potatoes ; then 
 add to them a cupful of boiling milk, a table-spoonful of 
 butter, and salt and pepper to suit the taste. Spread 
 this preparation over the meat and sauce, beginning at 
 the sides of the dish and working toward the centre. 
 Bake for thirty minutes. 
 
 Other meats besides roast beef may be used in a shep- 
 herd's pie. 
 
 *Beef Pastie. 
 
 Use for this savory luncheon dish two pounds of the 
 round or flank of beef, enough raw potatoes to make 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 253 
 
 when pared two quarts of small cubes ; three teaspoon- 
 f'uls and a half of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, two 
 table-spoonfuls of chopped onion, one generous pint of 
 water, three-fourths of a cupful of milk, one generous 
 pint of unsifted flour, two level teaspoonfuls of baking- 
 powder, and one table-spoonful of butter. 
 
 Cut the meat into cubes, and put it, together with the 
 potatoes, onion, two table-spoonfuls of flour, the pepper, 
 and two teaspoonfuls and a half of salt, into a large 
 earthen dish that will hold a little more than three 
 quarts. Mix thoroughly, and then add the water. Cover 
 the dish with a large plate, or anything else that will 
 prevent the escape of steam, and set it in a very moderate 
 oven for one hour. At the end of that time mix the 
 remaining flour, the baking-powder, and a scant tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and rub the mixture through a sieve. 
 RUD the butter into the mixture with the hands ; then 
 add the milk, and mix quickly with a spoon. Sprinkle 
 the moulding-board with flour, and roll the dough on it 
 until it is the size of the dish in which the mixture is 
 baking. Remove the dish from the oven, and after tak- 
 ing off the cover, cover the dish with the paste. Return 
 to the oven, and cook for a quarter of an hour ; then put 
 the dish-cover over the paste, and cook fifteen minutes 
 longer. Serve the pastie in the dish in which it is pre- 
 pared. There will be enough for six or eight persons. 
 It is well to pin a napkin around the dish. 
 
 
 *Timbale of Cold Meat. 
 
 For six persons, use one pint and a half of cold meat, 
 free of fat and gristle and chopped fine, one level table- 
 spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, half a tea- 
 spoonful of onion juice, one teaspoonful of chopped 
 parsley, one cupful of stock or milk, two eggs, two table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, and half a cupful of grated bread 
 crumbs. 
 
254 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Mix the seasoning and bread crumbs with the meat. 
 Heat the stock, and nielt the butter in it ; then add the 
 stock and the two eggs, well beaten, to the meat. Mix 
 thoroughly, and put into a well-buttered mould or bowl. 
 Place this in a pan of warm water, and cover with a 
 piece of buttered paper. Cook for an hour in a moderate 
 oven ; and after turning out on a warm dish, pour brown 
 sauce around it. 
 
 Brown Sauce. Heat three table-spoonfuls of butter 
 in a frying-pan, and when it begins to turn brown, add 
 two table-spoonfuls of flour. Stir the mixture until it 
 becomes dark brown ; then draw the pan back to a cooler 
 place, and gradually pour into it one cupful and a half 
 of stock. If it be inconvenient to use stock, take instead 
 the same quantity of milk. Stir the sauce until it boils ; 
 then let it simmer for three minutes. Season with half 
 a teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, and one table-spoonful of tomato catsup. 
 
 * Simple Curry of Beef. 
 
 Free the meat of skin, fat, and bone, and, cutting it 
 into rather small pieces, season it with salt and pepper. 
 For a quart of meat allow a sauce made as follows, in- 
 creasing the quantities of the ingredients in the proper 
 proportion if there be more than a quart : 
 
 Put three table-spoonfuls of butter into a frying-pan 
 with half an onion, cut fine. Cook slowly for eight 
 minutes ; then add two table-spoonfuls of flour and one 
 teaspoonful of curry-powder. Stir until perfectly smooth 
 and brown. If you have it, add a pint of stock ; if not, 
 add that quantity of water. Stir until it boils, and sea- 
 son with salt and pepper. 
 
 Strain this sauce upon the meat, and cook from twelve 
 to fifteen minutes. Pour into the centre of a border of 
 plain boiled rice. 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 255 
 
 * Fricassee of Cold Roast Beef. 
 
 The materials required are a quart of cold roast beef, 
 cut in thin slices and almost free of fat, three gills of 
 stock, or the water in which the bones of the beef have 
 been boiled, three table-spoonfuls of butter, three scant 
 table-spoonfuls of flour, two generous teaspoonfuls of 
 salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, one table-spoonful of 
 chopped onion, and half a cupful of strained tomato. 
 
 Put the butter and onion in a large frying-pan, and 
 cook slowly for ten minutes ; then draw the pan forward 
 and add the flour, stirring all the while, and until the 
 mixture becomes dark brown. Gradually add the stock. 
 Stir for one minute ; then let the sauce simmer for five 
 minutes. 
 
 Sprinkle the meat with the salt and pepper, and put 
 it in a stew-pan. Add the strained tomato, and then 
 strain the sauce over the meat. Cover the saucepan, and 
 cook for five or six minutes. Serve at once. It will not 
 spoil the dish to omit the onion. 
 
 * Savory Beef Collops. 
 
 Use a quart of cold roast beef, chopped very fine ; two 
 table-spoonfuls of flour, four of butter, one teaspoonful 
 of chopped onion, half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 
 two teaspoonfuls of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, and half a pint of stock made of the bones and 
 hard bits of the roast beef. 
 
 Put the butter on the stove in a frying-pan, and when 
 it gets hot, add the onion and parsley. Cook the onion 
 until it turns a light brown; then add the flour, and stir 
 the liquid until it becomes smooth. Next add the stock, 
 and cook for two minutes ; then add the meat, salt, and 
 pepper, and stir the mixture thoroughly. Cover the pan, 
 and set it back where its contents will cook slowly for 
 twenty minutes. Turn out on a hot dish, and garnish 
 with small slices of toast or a few bits of parsley. 
 
256 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Cold steak or raw beef, chopped fine, may be used for 
 collops. When, however, uncooked beef is taken, the 
 cooking should be continued only five minutes after the 
 meat is put with the sauce. 
 
 * Hashed Beef on Toast. 
 
 Chop pieces of cold roast beef rather fine, and season 
 well with salt and pepper. To each pint of meat add a 
 level table-spoonful of flour. Stir well, and add a small 
 teacupful of soup stock or water. Put the mixture into 
 a small stew-pan, and after covering, simmer gently for 
 twenty minutes. Meanwhile toast six slices of bread 
 nicely, and at the end of the twenty minutes spread the 
 beef upon them. Serve immediately on a hot dish. 
 
 If water be used instead of soup stock, add a table- 
 spoonful of butter just before spreading the beef on the 
 toast. Any kind of cold meat may be served in this 
 manner. 
 
 * Frizzled Beef. 
 
 With a very sharp knife, cut about one-third of a 
 pound of dried beef into slices as thin as shavings. 
 Beat together six eggs and a quarter of a cupful of milk, 
 and season slightly with salt and pepper. Put two table- 
 spoonfuls of butter into a frying-pan, and when it has 
 become melted, put in the shaved beef. Stir over a hot 
 fire until the meat begins to curl; then draw the pan 
 back where there is less heat, and add the mixture of 
 eggs and milk. Stir until the egg begins to thicken; 
 then pour into a warm dish, and serve at once. 
 
 * * -f r- r 
 
 * Creamed Beef. 
 
 Shave half a pound of dried beef into thin slices. Put 
 three table-spoonfuls of butter into a frying-pan, and as 
 soon as it is melted, add the meat. Stir until the slices 
 begin to curl ; then add a cupful of milk, and when the 
 milk boils, stir in a teaspoonful of flour, mixed smooth 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 257 
 
 with, three table-spoonfuls of milk. Season with pepper. 
 Boil up once, and serve. 
 
 * Braised Shoulder of Veal. 
 
 When ordering eight pounds of the shoulder, direct the 
 butcher to remote the bones, but to send them with the 
 veal. There will also be needed a quarter of a pound 
 of salt pork, a pint of cracker crumbs, three table-spoon- 
 fuls of butter, six table-spoonfuls of flour, a teaspoonful 
 of chopped onion, half a teaspoonful of thyme, half a 
 teaspoonful of summer savory, some cold water, salt, 
 and pepper, and three leaves of celery, if they may be 
 obtained. 
 
 Put the bones into a stew-pan containing three pints 
 of cold water, and cook gently for an hour. Cut the pork 
 into thin slices, and fry it slowly in a large frying-pan 
 during the same period. Mix the butter, herbs, a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, an even table-spoonful of salt, a 
 cupful of cold water, and the pint of cracker crumbs. 
 Spread the veal on a board, and, after sprinkling it lightly 
 with pepper and generously with salt, spread over it the 
 dressing which has just been made. Koll up the meat 
 and tie it with soft twine, being careful not to draw the 
 twine very tight. Dredge the roll with flour, covering 
 it thickly. Eemove the pork from the frying-pan, and 
 set the pan where the fat which it contains will become 
 very hot. Lay the veal in the fat, and brown it on 
 all sides ; then transfer it to a deep tin or granite-ware 
 pan. 
 
 Cook the spoonful of chopped onion for one minute in 
 the fat remaining in the frying-pan ; then add whatever 
 quantity of flour may have been left from the six spoon- 
 fuls provided for dredging the meat, and stir it until it 
 turns brown. Gradually add the water in which the 
 bones were simmered. Stir the mixture until it boils 
 up ; then season to your taste with salt and pepper, and 
 
 17 
 
258 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 pour it over the roll of veal. If there be any celery leaves, 
 add them now. Cover the pan, place it in a moderate 
 oven, and cook the meat for three hours, basting fre- 
 quently. At serving-time place the veal on a warm dish, 
 and, after removing the strings, strain the gravy over it. 
 
 Loin of Veal a la Jardiniere. 
 
 This is an elegant dish, well worth the pains needed for 
 its preparation. The articles required for making it are 
 a loin of veal weighing about seven pounds, two ounces of 
 salt pork, one pint each of turnips, carrots, and potatoes, 
 cut into cubes, a pint of green peas, a small cauliflower, 
 an onion, a bay leaf, a stalk of celery, a table-spoonful of 
 lemon juice, two table-spoonfuls of corn-starch, four of 
 butter, one of flour, and some salt and pepper for season- 
 ing purposes. 
 
 With a sharp knife remove the backbone from the 
 meat. This will separate the tenderloin and kidneys 
 from the rest of the meat. Put them back ; and after 
 seasoning the meat well with salt and pepper, roll it up 
 and fasten it with skewers. Butter two large sheets of 
 fool's-cap paper, and cover the meat with them, tying 
 them on with twine ; then put the loin in a cool place 
 until the time for cooking comes. 
 
 Next break up the bone taken from the meat. Cut the 
 pork into thin slices, and, putting it into a frying-pan, 
 cook it slowly for ten minutes ; then add the onion, cut 
 fine, and cook it until it has acquired a light brown color. 
 Add the flour, and stir until it becomes dark brown. 
 Gradually add three pints of cold water. Put the bones 
 and herbs into a stew-pan, and pour the contents of the 
 frying-pan over them. Cook gently for an hour. 
 
 Mix the corn-starch with half a cupful of cold water, 
 and stir it into the boiling mixture in the stew-pan. 
 Season well with salt and pepper, and add the lemon 
 juice. Put the loin of veal into a deep, narrow pan, and 
 strain over it half of the liquor from the stew-pan. Place 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 259 
 
 f 
 
 the meat in a very moderate oven, and cook for three 
 hours, basting every fifteen minutes with the gravy in 
 the pan. When the meat has been cooking for an hour 
 and a half, strain over it the gravy remaining in the 
 stew-pan. At serving-time remove the sheets of paper 
 from the loin, and withdraw the skewers. Place the 
 meat on a warm dish, and pour four table-spoonfuls of 
 gravy over it. Arrange the vegetables in little groups 
 around the meat ; serve the gravy in a separate dish. 
 
 If you do not like pork, use, instead, three table- 
 spoonfuls of butter or oil when frying the onion for 
 the gravy. Each vegetable should be cooked separately, 
 and in boiling water in plenty. Cook the turnips and 
 carrots for half an hour ; the cauliflower, broken into 
 flowerets, twenty minutes ; the peas, from twenty to 
 fifty minutes, being guided by their age ; the potatoes, 
 if cut into half-inch cubes, twelve minutes. Except in 
 the case of the potatoes (which must be drained dry, and 
 have only some salt added), pour almost all the water 
 away from each vegetable, and add to each half a tea- 
 spoonful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, and one 
 teaspoonful of butter. Boil rapidly for a minute, shak- 
 ing all the while, and then set back where they will keep 
 hot until serving-time. 
 
 Not much more trouble is required for preparing this 
 dish than for preparing the ordinary roast of veal, and 
 the change is a pleasing one. These full directions make 
 the process appear harder than it really is. 
 
 * Brown Fricassee of Veal. 
 
 Cut two pounds of veal into thin slices, and dredge 
 with salt, pepper, and flour. Cut a quarter of a pound 
 of salt pork into thin slices, and fry until crisp and 
 brown, being careful not to burn. When the pork is 
 done, take it up, and put the veal into the fat remaining 
 in the pan. Fry the meat until it is well browned; then 
 
260 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 
 
 remove it from the pan, and put three table-spoonfuls of 
 flour into the fat. Cook it until it has become rich 
 brown, and gradually stir in a pint and a half of cold 
 water. Season with salt and pepper, and after the sauce 
 has boiled up once, put the veal into it, and simmer for 
 a quarter of an hour. 
 
 This is a nice dish for luncheon, when served in a 
 border of rice, hominy, mashed potatoes, or hot small 
 cream-of-tartar biscuit. 
 
 * Blanquette of Veal. 
 
 Use three pounds of veal (taken from the shoulder or 
 neck), two table-spoonfuls of chopped onion, four of but- 
 ter, three of flour, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a 
 quart of water, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, 
 and a level table-spoonful of salt. 
 
 Cut the veal into pieces about two inches square, and 
 roll these in the flour. Put the butter into a frying-pan, 
 and as soon as it becomes hot, put in the veal. Cook the 
 meat until it is a delicate brown on both sides ; then re- 
 move it to a deep stew-pan. Put the onion into the but- 
 ter remaining in the frying-pan, and stir for two minutes ; 
 then add the flour in which the meat was rolled, and stir 
 until it turns brown. Gradually pour in the cold water, 
 and when the gravy begins to boil, pour it over the veal. 
 Add the salt and pepper, and then cover the stew-pan 
 and set it where its contents will only simmer during 
 the next two hours. At the end of that time add the 
 parsley, and taste the blanquette, to be sure that there 
 is enough seasoning. Serve with Turkish rice, plain 
 rice, or, indeed, with any vegetable. 
 
 *Veal Pillau. 
 
 This is a savory and economical mode of preparing 
 veal, three pounds cut from the neck and shoulder being 
 used. The other materials needed are a cupful of rice, 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 261 
 
 three table-spoonfuls of butter or a quarter of a pound of 
 salt pork, an onion, three large teaspoonfuls of salt, half 
 a teaspoonf ul of pepper, half a cupful of strained tomato, 
 and four cupfuls of boiling water. 
 
 Cut the veal into small pieces, and season well with 
 salt. Chop the onion fine, and put it into a stew-pan 
 with the butter. Stir until the onion turns a light straw- 
 color ; then add the veal, and stir until that is browned 
 a little, being careful not to burn the onion. Add the 
 tomato and a cupful of the water, and simmer gently for 
 an hour and a half. Now add the other three cupfuls of 
 boiling water, the salt, pepper, and the rice, after washing 
 the latter carefully in three waters. Heat the mixture 
 to the boiling-point ; then cover closely, and set back 
 where it will cook slowly for an hour. The rice will ab- 
 sorb almost all the liquid and be tender, yet every grain 
 should be distinct. Turn the pillau out upon a platter, 
 and garnish with parsley. 
 
 * Curry of Veal. 
 
 First cut four pounds of veal into pieces about three 
 inches square. Cut a quarter of a pound of fat salt pork 
 into thin slices, and fry slowly in the soup-kettle. Add 
 a large onion, cut fine, and as soon as it begins to turn a 
 light straw-color, add the veal. Cover the kettle, and 
 set it back where the dish will cook slowly for an hour. 
 Give a stirring frequently, and at the end of the hour 
 add a cupful of stewed tomato and a pint and a half of 
 boiling water. Stir well, and place the kettle where the 
 dish will cook slowly for another hour ; then add a table- 
 spoonful of curry-powder, mixed with one-third of a cup- 
 ful of cold water. Season well with salt and pepper. 
 Simmer half an hour longer, and serve on a flat dish, 
 with a border of boiled rice. 
 
 Mutton, beef, and lamb may be prepared in the same 
 manner. 
 
262 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Minced Veal on Toast. 
 
 The bits of veal left from a dinner may be utilized the 
 next morning. Chop them fine, and to each pint put a 
 table-spoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, and one- 
 eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper. After mixing well, 
 add half a cupful of stock or water. Simmer for fifteen 
 minutes ; then, after stirring in a table-spoonful of but- 
 ter, spread the hash on slices of toast. Serve very hot. 
 Thin slices of lemon laid around the toast increase its 
 attractiveness considerably. 
 
 Terrapin Veal. 
 
 - 
 
 The list of materials is long, yet the dish is worth it : 
 two pounds of veal cut from the leg, six hard-boiled 
 eggs, half a pint of cream, half a pint of stock or water, 
 two large table-spoonfuls of butter, one large table- 
 spoonful of flour, half a table-spoonful of chopped onion, 
 a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a piece of cinna- 
 mon about half an inch long, a teaspoonful of lemon 
 juice, a clove, a slight grating of nutmeg, a teaspoonful 
 of salt, and one-eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
 Put the onion and butter into a stew-pan, to cook 
 slowly for five minutes. Meanwhile cut the veal into 
 small cubes, and at the end of five minutes put it with 
 the butter and onion, and draw the pan forward to a hot 
 part of the range. Stir until the meat begins to brown ; 
 then add the flour, and stir a moment longer, being care- 
 ful not to burn. Draw the pan back, and gradually pour 
 in the stock, stirring all the while. Now put in all the 
 seasoning except the lemon juice, having the whole spice 
 tied up in a bit of muslin. When the dish boils, cover 
 it closely and set back where it will only simmer for two 
 hours. At the end of that time remove the whole spice, 
 and add the cream and boiled eggs, the latter chopped 
 rather fine. Satisfy yourself by tasting that there is 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF. COOKING MEAT. 263 
 
 seasoning enough. Heat the dish to the boiling-point, 
 and after adding the lemon juice, serve very hot. If 
 you choose you may add two table-spoonfuls of Madeira 
 with the juice. 
 
 This dish may be made with cold veal, the mode of 
 cooking being the same. Sometimes only two eggs are 
 used, a few table-spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms being 
 substituted for the other four. 
 
 Jellied Veal. 
 
 Use a knuckle of veal weighing about four pounds, 
 three hard-boiled eggs, the juice of one lemon, two table- 
 spoonfuls of minced onion, two of minced carrot, one of 
 parsley, a bit of mace, a piece of cinnamon about an inch 
 long, half a dozen cloves, two sprigs of thyme, a level 
 teaspoonful of pepper, two table-spoonfuls of salt, and 
 three pints of water. 
 
 Have the knuckle of veal broken into several pieces. 
 Wash it, and put it in a stew-pan with the water. Tie 
 up all the seasonings, except the salt, pepper, and lemon, 
 in a piece of muslin, and put them in the stew-pan with 
 the veal. Place the stew-pan on the fire, and when the 
 contents begin to boil, skim carefully. Cook slowly for 
 four hours, and then take up the meat and free it from 
 the bones. Let it cool, and then cut it into small pieces. 
 Put the meat in a clean stew-pan, and strain over it the 
 water in which it was boiled. Now add the salt, pepper, 
 and lemon juice, and simmer for half an hour. 
 
 Slice the hard-boiled eggs, and arrange some of them 
 in a circle on the bottom of a charlotte mould. Now put 
 in a layer of the stewed veal and then a layer of egg, 
 and continue in this way until all the materials are used. 
 Set away in a cold place for three or four hours. 
 
 At serving-time dip the mould into warm water for a 
 few moments, and then loosen the contents by slipping 
 a knife between the jellied meat and the mould. Turn 
 
264 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 out on a flat dish, and garnish with parsley or water- 
 cresses. 
 
 * Veal Loaf. 
 
 Use for this dish five pounds of veal, cut from the leg, 
 one cupful of cracker crumbs, powdered fine, one cupful 
 and a half of stock, three eggs, three-quarters of a pound 
 of fat salt pork, one-quarter of a cupful of dried bread 
 crumbs, one table-spoonful of fine chopped onion; one 
 scant teaspoonful of thyme, half a teaspoonful of sweet 
 marjoram, half a teaspoonful of summer savory, three 
 generous teaspoonfuls of salt, one teaspoonful of white 
 pepper, and two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
 
 Chop the veal and pork exceedingly fine. Add to the 
 chopped mixture the crackers, seasoning, two of the eggs, 
 well beaten, and one cupful of the stock. Mix well with 
 the hands. Next, butter the bottom of a flat cake-pan. 
 Form the mixture into a loaf about three inches and a 
 half high and five wide, and place this in the buttered 
 pan. Beat the third egg well, and spread it on the loaf 
 with a brush or a piece of cotton cloth. Now sprinkle the 
 meat with the fine bread crumbs. Put it into a rather 
 hot oven, and cook for three hours, basting frequently 
 with the remaining half-cupful of stock, in which the 
 two table-spoonfuls of butter should be melted. Serve 
 with the veal loaf a sauce made as follows : 
 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of butter on the stove in a 
 small frying-pan, and when it becomes hot, stir in two 
 level table-spoonfuls of flour. Stir until smooth and 
 brown ; then draw the pan back, and gradually add one 
 large cupful of stock or milk. Boil for three minutes, 
 stirring all the while ; then set the sauce back where it 
 will keep hot. 
 
 Pour the gravy which is in the pan into that which 
 has just been made. Season with salt and pepper, and 
 pour around the meat, or serve it in a separate dish. 
 
 Veal loaf may be served cold for luncheon or supper. 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 265 
 
 Leg of Lamb a la Jardiniere. 
 
 Use a leg weighing about seven or eight pounds. Put 
 it into as small a kettle as will contain it, and cover 
 with boiling water (two quarts should be enough). Put 
 into a muslin bag an onion, half a small carrot, half a 
 small turnip, two cloves, four allspice, and, if you have 
 them, four leaves of celery. Tie the bag and put it into 
 the kettle with the meat. Mix four table-spoonfuls of 
 flour with one cupful of cold water, and stir this thicken- 
 ing into the hot water in the kettle. Add four tea- 
 spoonfuls of salt and one of pepper- Cover, and heat to 
 the boiling-point ; then skim carefully, and set the kettle 
 back where the water will just bubble for four hours. 
 Place the meat on a large warm dish, and pour some of 
 the gravy around it. Arrange, in little groups about the 
 leg, carrots, turnips, and peas, cooked a la jardiniere, and 
 serve at once. 
 
 The gravy left from the dish will be a good foundation 
 for a thick vegetable soup. 
 
 Broiled Breast of Lamb. 
 
 Use a breast of lamb weighing about three pounds, 
 two table-spoonfuls of butter, two of flour, one table- 
 spoonful of chopped onion, one table-spoonful of salt, 
 half a teaspoonful of pepper, two cloves, a bay leaf, a 
 sprig of parsley, a table-spoonful of lemon juice, and a 
 generous pint of water. 
 
 Bone the meat, and lay it flat in a stew-pan, putting 
 the bones on top of the meat. Put the butter and onions 
 in a frying-pan, and cook slowly for ten minutes ; then 
 add the flour, and stir until smooth and frothy. Gradu- 
 ally add the water and afterward the seasoning. After 
 simmering for ten minutes, pour over the meat in the 
 stew-pan. Cover, and simmer for an hour and a half j 
 then take up the meat and put it on a flat dish. Place 
 on top of it another flat dish or a tin sheet on which 
 
266 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 rests a brick or some other weight. Set away in a cool 
 place. In the morning remove the weight, and after 
 trimming the edges of the meat, broil over a hot fire for 
 ten minutes. Season with butter, salt, and pepper. 
 
 A nice sauce to go with the lamb may be easily made. 
 As soon as the meat is put away to get pressed, strain 
 the liquor in which it was simmered. When it gets cold, 
 skim off the fat. In the morning put the sauce on the 
 stove in a saucepan, and when it gets hot, add a tea- 
 spoonful of walnut or tomato ketchup. 
 
 Broiled breast of lamb is a good dish for luncheon or 
 supper as well as for breakfast. A breast of mutton may 
 be cooked in the same way. 
 
 * Fricassee of Lamb, with Baked Dumplings. 
 
 Cut up enough cold lamb to make a quart of dice each 
 about an inch square, and after seasoning the meat with 
 salt and pepper, put it into a rather shallow dish, and 
 pour over it a sauce made as follows : 
 
 Put a table-spoonful of butter into a frying-pan, and 
 when it becomes hot add a table-spoonful of flour. Cook 
 until brown, and then add a scant pint of water. When 
 the sauce boils up, season it with salt and pepper, and 
 pour over the meat. 
 
 Set the dish containing the meat and sauce into the 
 oven, and make some dumplings in the following 
 manner : 
 
 Mix together in a sieve, and then rub through it, a pint 
 of unsifted flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoon- 
 ful of sugar, and one teaspoonful and a half of baking- 
 powder. Rub into the mixture half a table-spoonful 
 of butter, and then wet it with a small cupful of milk. 
 Roll out the dough, and cut it into very small biscuit. 
 
 Remove the meat from the oven, and place the biscuit 
 or dumplings upon it ; then return to the oven, and bake 
 for twelve or fifteen minutes. Serve the fricassee imme- 
 diately in the dish in which it was cooked. 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 267 
 
 * Lamb Warmed in Curry Sauce. 
 
 After freeing a quantity of cold lamb of skin, fat, and 
 bone, cut it into thin slices, and season with salt and 
 pepper; then make a sauce according to the following 
 rule, in which the quantities stated are sufficient for a 
 quart of meat : 
 
 Put into a frying-pan three table-spoonfuls of butter 
 and half a small onion, cut fine, and cook slowly for 
 eight minutes ; then add two table-spoonfuls of flour 
 and one teaspoonful of curry-powder, and stir until per- 
 fectly smooth ; gradually add a pint of stock, and stir 
 the sauce until it boils ; season with salt and pepper, and 
 cook for three minutes. 
 
 When the sauce is finished, strain it upon the meat, 
 and cook both together for twelve or fifteen minutes. 
 Serve in a border of boiled rice. 
 
 * Ragout of Cold Lamb. 
 
 Free a quantity of cold roast lamb of fat and bone, 
 and cut it into delicate slices. For one quart of the pre- 
 pared meat use three table-spoonfuls of butter, one of 
 chopped onion, half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a 
 quart of water, two table-spoonfuls of flour, half a cup- 
 ful of stewed tomato, three hard-boiled eggs, and some 
 salt and pepper. 
 
 Put the bones and water into a saucepan, and let them 
 simmer for an hour; then add the onion, tomato, and 
 parsley, and simmer half an hour longer. Strain the 
 mixture ; there should be about a pint and a half of the 
 liquid. Put the butter into a frying-pan, and when it 
 gets hot, add the flour. Stir the mixture until the flour 
 turns dark brown ; then gradually add the strained liquor, 
 and season with pepper and salt. Season the meat also, 
 and stir it into the sauce. Add the hard-boiled eggs, 
 chopped rather fine. Simmer for five minutes, and serve 
 very hot. Any kind of meat may be used for a ragout. . 
 
268 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Boiled Leg of Mutton. 
 
 Put into a kettle and cover with boiling water a leg of 
 mutton weighing about twelve pounds. Add a cupful of 
 well-washed rice. When the water boils, skim it care- 
 fully. Let it boil rapidly for fifteen minutes ; then set 
 the kettle back where it will only simmer for two hours. 
 The meat will then be red in the centre, and blood will 
 follow the knife. If you prefer to have the mutton 
 better done, cook fifteen minutes longer. The use of rice 
 makes it whiter and tenderer. Serve with caper sauce. 
 
 The water in the kettle may be used the next day for 
 a soup. 
 
 Stuffed and Rolled Shoulder of Mutton. 
 
 This is a nice dish for a small family. Buy a shouldei 
 of mutton weighing from three to four pounds, and have 
 the butcher remove the bones, which should be saved. 
 Wipe the meat carefully, and dredge it generously with 
 salt and pepper, using about a table-spoonful of salt and 
 half a teaspoonful of pepper. Make a dressing by soak- 
 ing one cupful and a half of stale bread in one-third of 
 a cupful of cold water, and adding a table-spoonful of 
 butter, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of chopped onion, 
 one-eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper, one- fourth of a 
 teaspoonful of summer savory, one-fourth of a teaspoon- 
 ful of thyme, and one well-beaten egg. After spreading 
 the meat with this dressing, roll it up. Fasten with 
 skewers, and place it on the rack in a meat-pan. Put the 
 bones which were taken from the meat and half a pint 
 of water in the bottom of the pan. Cook in a hot 
 oven for an hour and a quarter, basting half a dozen 
 times with the water in the pan, and salt, pepper, and 
 flour. If the water cook away, add more from time to 
 time. 
 
 When the meat is done, place it on a hot platter. 
 Skim the fat from the gravy in the pan, and add water 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 269 
 
 enough to make half a pint of gravy. Thicken with one 
 teaspoonful of flour, mixed with half a cupful of cold 
 water. Boil for a minute, and then ascertain whether 
 any more seasoning is needed. Have the meat hot when 
 it goes to the table. 
 
 * Stuffed Fillet of Mutton. 
 
 Remove the bone from the remainder of a roast leg of 
 mutton. Season the meat well with salt and pepper, and 
 place it on a tin plate or sheet in a baking-pan. Cut an 
 onion in halves, and rub it over the meat. Pare, boil, 
 and mash ten good-sized potatoes, and season with a 
 table-spoonful of butter, a scant table -spoonful of salt, 
 half a teaspoonful of pepper, and half a cupful of hot 
 milk. Fill with potato the space left vacant by the re- 
 moval of the bone, and heap the remainder of the potato 
 upon the meat. Pour around the mutton a sauce made 
 as follows : 
 
 Put three table-spoonfuls of butter into a frying-pan, 
 and when it is hot, add two large table-spoonfuls of flour. 
 Stir the sauce until it becomes dark brown ; then add, 
 very slowly, a pint of stock made with the bones from 
 the mutton, and season with salt and pepper. Boil for 
 two minutes. This sauce will be thin, but it will thicken 
 as it is cooked. 
 
 When the sauce has been poured around the meat, 
 place the baking-pan in a moderately hot oven. Cook 
 the meat for an hour, basting it, and the potato too, 
 every fifteen minutes with the sauce. At the end of 
 the hour beat two eggs rather light, and spread over the 
 meat and potato. Ten minutes later remove the pan 
 from the oven. Place the meat on a warm platter, and 
 pour the sauce around it. Garnish with parsley, and 
 serve very hot. 
 
 Veal or lamb may be served in the same manner. 
 
270 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Broiled Breast of Mutton. 
 
 For a family of six or seven, get two breasts of mut- 
 ton. Cut out the backbones, which may be used in 
 making stock, and season the meat well with salt and 
 pepper, and dredge it lightly with flour. Broil over a 
 clear fire for fifteen minutes, and serve on a warm dish 
 with Soubise sauce. 
 
 * Ragout of Mutton. 
 
 For six persons use three pounds of the shoulder of 
 mutton, a carrot, a turnip, two table-spoonfuls of chopped 
 onion, one quart of potatoes, measured after being pared, 
 and cut into half-inch cubes, three table-spoonfuls of 
 flour, three of butter, three pints of boiling water, and 
 enough salt and pepper to season the dish well. 
 
 Cut most of the fat from the meat, and then cut the 
 meat into small pieces. Season, and roll in flour. After 
 putting the butter into a frying-pan, put in also all the 
 vegetables, except the potatoes, cut fine. Cook slowly 
 for five minutes, and then add the meat. Stir the con- 
 tents of the pan over a hot fire until they acquire a 
 golden-brown color ; then turn into a large stew-pan, and 
 pour the boiling water over them, reserving a little, how- 
 ever, with which to wash off any part of the mixture 
 which may cling to the frying-pan. Cook gently for an 
 hour and a half. At the end of that time season well 
 with salt and pepper, and add the potatoes. With half 
 an hour's further cooking the dish will be finished. 
 
 * Irish Stew. 
 
 For this stew use two pounds of the shoulder of mut- 
 ton, a pint and a half of peeled and sliced onion, three 
 pints of pared and sliced potatoes, one table-spoonful of 
 flour, three generous teaspoonfuls of salt, one teaspoon- 
 ful of pepper, one quart of boiling water, and one table- 
 spoonful of minced parsley. 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 271 
 
 Cut all the fat from the mutton, and put about two 
 ounces of it in a stew-pan and on the fire. Be careful 
 not to put in any of the thin skin that covers the fat, as 
 this would give the stew a strong flavor. Cook the fat 
 slowly, until there is about four table-spoonfuls of the 
 liquid fat. Remove all the solid matter, and add the 
 onions to the liquid fat. Cover, and cook slowly for one 
 hour, stirring often. At the end of that time add the 
 flour and the lean mutton, cut into cubes. Stir over a 
 hot part of the fire until the mixture becomes slightly 
 browned. Now add the salt, pepper, and water. Set 
 the stew back where it will simmer for one hour and a 
 half; then add the potatoes and minced parsley, and 
 simmer for three-quarters of an hour longer. Taste, to 
 see if there be salt and pepper enough. 
 
 * Brunswick Stew. 
 
 This dish is a good medium for the use of the remains 
 of a roast of mutton ; about two pounds of meat, aside 
 from the bones, being required. The other articles 
 needed are a pint of Lima beans, or any kind of 
 shelled beans will do; one quart of pared and sliced 
 potatoes ; half a pint each of turnips and carrots, cut into 
 dice ; one pint of tomatoes, cut fine ; one parsnip, cut 
 fine ; two quarts of fine-shred cabbage, two quarts of 
 water, two table-spoonfuls of flour, two of butter, two 
 of salt, and a level teaspoonful of pepper. All of the 
 vegetables should be uncooked. When corn is in season 
 a pint and a half, cut from the cob, may be used. 
 
 Free the meat from bones and fat, and cut it into dice. 
 Put the bones into a stew-pan with some water, and cook 
 gently for two hours. Mix the flour with half a cup- 
 ful of cold water taken from the two quarts, and stir the 
 mixture into the water in the saucepan. Add the salt and 
 pepper, and cook twenty minutes longer. Meanwhile 
 arrange the vegetables and meat in layers in a large 
 
272 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 stew-pan, and strain the broth over them. Put the butter 
 on the top, and cover the stew-pan closely. Place on the 
 fire, and cook gently for two hours. Serve very hot. 
 
 *Escaloped Mutton* 
 
 Free a quantity of cold mutton from skin, bone, and 
 fat, and chop it rather coarse. To one pint of the 
 meat add a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper and 
 one teaspoonful of salt. A gravy is next to be made 
 by this rule : Put a table-spoonful of butter into a 
 small frying-pan, and when it is hot, add a generous 
 teaspoonful of flour ; stir until the mixture has become 
 browned, and then gradually add a cupful of soup 
 stock or cold water ; let the gravy boil three minutes, 
 and season it with salt and pepper. Put alternate 
 layers of gravy and mutton into an escalop dish, having 
 three of gravy and two of meat. Cover lightly with 
 grated bread crumbs, and cook in the oven for twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 The dish may be prepared the day before, and kept in 
 a cold place until morning. Other meats than mutton 
 may be used. 
 
 Deviled Mutton. 
 
 From the rare mutton left from a dinner, cut slices an 
 inch thick, and score them very lightly. Mix a teaspoon- 
 ful of mustard, two of olive-oil, one of vinegar, half a 
 teaspoonful of pepper, and one-tenth of a teaspoonful of 
 cayenne, and spread this mixture in the incisions in the 
 mutton. Broil the slices for five minutes over a very 
 hot fire. Place on a hot dish, spread a little butter over 
 them, and serve immediately. 
 
 The quantity of seasoning given above is enough for 
 two large slices. If a strong flavor be liked, the amount 
 of seasoning should be doubled. 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 273 
 
 * Fried Bacon. 
 
 Cut the bacon as thin as the blade of a knife, or have 
 the butcher do it for you. Six or seven slices probably 
 will be sufficient. Keep it perfectly cold until you are 
 ready to fry it. Heat the frying-pan to a high tempera- 
 ture before putting the bacon into it. Cook the meat 
 until it curls a little, which will be in about two or three 
 minutes. It should be served at once. 
 
 * Fried Bacon, Southern Fashion. 
 
 Cut the bacon in slices about one-fourth of an inch 
 thick. Place in a bowl, and pour boiling water over it. 
 Let it stand for five minutes ; then spread it in a frying- 
 pan, and sprinkle Indian meal lightly over the meat. 
 Fry over a rather hot fire until crisp and brown, and be 
 particular to serve on a warm dish. 
 
 * Fried Liver and Bacon. 
 
 Simple as this dish is, it is seldom properly cooked. 
 The bacon should be kept cold until it is to be cut. For 
 the cutting, an exceedingly keen knife is required, as 
 the slices should be as thin as shavings. If you are not 
 to fry them immediately, put them in a cool place. 
 Have the liver sent from the market in one piece, and 
 cut it yourself into slices about a quarter of an inch 
 thick. If it be calf liver, simply wash it in cold water ; 
 but if it be beef liver, it will require more attention. It 
 must in that case be allowed to stand twenty minutes or 
 more in cold water ; this must then be poured off, and 
 the liver covered with boiling water ; five minutes later 
 the meat must be drained in a colander, and it should 
 then be seasoned with salt and pepper. 
 
 Put the slices of bacon into a hot frying-pan, and turn 
 them constantly until they are crisp ; then take them up, 
 and keep hot. Move the frying-pan to a part of the 
 
 V* 
 
274 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 stove where the heat will not be so great as during the 
 cooking of the bacon, and, dropping the sliced liver into 
 the bacon fat, cook eight minutes, turning frequently. 
 Arrange the liver in the centre of a platter, and garnish 
 with the bacon. 
 
 By following these directions you will have the bacon 
 crisp and curled, and the liver tender. Slow cooking 
 spoils bacon, and rapid cooking hardens and ruins liver. 
 
 Blanquette of Calf's Liver. 
 
 After washing two pounds of calf's liver, put it into 
 a stew-pan with two quarts of boiling water, and simmer 
 for three hours. At the end of that time take it up and 
 cool it ; and when it is cold, cut it into little cubes, and 
 season with salt and pepper. Put three table-spoonfuls 
 of butter into a frying-pan with one large slice of onion, 
 and cook slowly for three minutes ; then add three table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, and stir until the mixture is smooth 
 and frothy, but not until it gets brown. Draw the pan 
 back, and gradually add a scant pint of white stock ; 
 then remove the onion, and, drawing the pan to a hot 
 part of the stove, stir the mixture until it boils. Season 
 to your taste with salt and pepper. Put the liver into 
 the pan, and after cooking for eight minutes, add half a 
 cupful of milk. When the blanquette boils up, remove 
 it from the fire; and after adding a table-spoonful of 
 lemon juice, serve without delay. 
 
 * Calf's Liver with Cream Sauce. 
 
 Use for six persons two pounds of liver, five table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, three gills of milk, three teaspoon- 
 fuls of flour, a sprig of parsley, a slice of onion, and salt 
 and pepper for seasoning. 
 
 Cut the liver into small, thin slices, and cover it with 
 cold water. Let it stand for ten minutes ; then drain it. 
 Put the butter into a frying-pan, and when it begins to 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 275 
 
 4 
 
 bubble, put in the liver, seasoned with salt and pepper. 
 Cook rather slowly for six minutes, and brown slightly 
 on both sides. Now take up the liver, and put it where 
 it will keep warm. Put the onion and parsley into the 
 butter remaining in the pan, and cook for one minute ; 
 then add the flour, and stir until the liquid begins to 
 froth. Draw the pan back, and gradually add the cold 
 milk. Cook for one minute, stirring all the while ; then 
 put in the liver, and cook slowly for five minutes longer. 
 This dish will answer for breakfast, luncheon, or tea. 
 
 * Liver in Cream Sauce. 
 
 Cut a pound and a half of calf's liver into pieces about 
 an inch square, and wash and cover with cold water. 
 Add a teaspoonful of lemon juice and a whole clove, and 
 simmer gently for an hour ; then pour off the water, and 
 add half a pint of milk or cream. Mix a heaping tea- 
 spoonful of flour with a table-spoonful of butter, and put 
 into the stew-pan as soon as the milk begins to boil. 
 Taste, to be sure that the dish is properly seasoned. 
 Boil for two minutes longer, and serve on crisp toast. 
 
 * Liver Hash. 
 
 Cut cold braised or stewed liver into pieces about the 
 size of Lima beans. A gravy is next in order. For a 
 pint of meat cook together a table-spoonful of butter and 
 a teaspoonful of flour until brown, and then add a scant 
 cupful of cold water, and a seasoning of salt and pepper ; 
 and for each pint of meat beyond the first, increase pro- 
 portionally the quantities of ingredients for the gravy. 
 As soon as this sauce boils up, put the liver into it. 
 Simmer gently for twenty minutes, and then add a tea- 
 spoonful of lemon juice. Serve very hot. 
 
 * Lamb's Liver Saute". 
 
 Cut the liver in slices about one-third of an inch thick. 
 Let it stand in cold water for ten minutes ; then drain 
 
276 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 it, and season with salt and pepper. For each pound of 
 meat put two table-spoonfuls of butter and two of flour 
 into a frying-pan, and stir until smooth and frothy ; then 
 put in the liver, and cook gently for six minutes, brown- 
 ing on both sides. Gradually add a cupful of hot water 
 and a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Stir the liquid until 
 it boils up; then, after satisfying yourself that it is 
 seasoned to your taste, let it simmer for two minutes. 
 Serve very hot. 
 
 For a change, a table-spoonful of chopped pickles or 
 capers may be added. This addition is best, however, 
 when the dish is to be served at luncheon or supper, 
 because breakfast dishes should be simple. 
 
 * Broiled Ham. 
 
 Cut slices of ham very thin. Put them in the double- 
 broiler, and cook over clear coals for five minutes. The 
 broiler must be turned constantly, as the fat dropping 
 from the ham blazes up. Serve the meat very hot. 
 
 * Crumbed Kidneys. 
 
 After removing the skin from two pairs of sheep ? s 
 kidneys, cut the meat into round slices about one-third 
 of an inch thick, and let these stand for half an hour 
 in a bowl of cold water ; then drain them, and season 
 well with salt and slightly with pepper. Dip the slices 
 into melted butter, and then into fine bread crumbs, and, 
 placing them in an oyster broiler or any common broiler, 
 cook them over clear coals for seven minutes. Place the 
 meat on slices of toast, putting a bit of maitre d'hotel 
 butter on each piece. Serve immediately. 
 
 Make the maitre d'hote! butter by stirring together 
 two table-spoonfuls of butter, a teaspoonful of lemon 
 juice, half a teaspoonful of minced parsley, and one- 
 fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 277 
 
 Kidneys a la Tartar. 
 
 Wash the kidneys, and pull off the thin skin. Cut 
 each kidney almost through without actually dividing 
 it. Let them soak in salted water for half an hour. 
 Now run a small skewer through each one, to keep it 
 open. Wipe dryj 
 then season with 
 salt and pepper. 
 Now dip in melted 
 butter, and roll in 
 
 fine bread crumbs. 
 
 -r, , . . , Skewered Kidneys. 
 
 Place in the 
 
 double-broiler, and cook over clear coals for six minutes. 
 Place them on a warm dish, the inside up, and after 
 drawing out the skewers, put a little Tartar sauce in the 
 centre of each kidney. Garnish with a few sprigs of 
 parsley. 
 
 * Kidneys Saute. 
 
 For six sheep or lamb kidneys, use three table-spoon- 
 fuls of butter, one of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, one- 
 fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, one table-spoonful of 
 lemon juice, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, half a 
 cupful of mushrooms cut into cubes, and half a cupful 
 of stock or water. 
 
 Eemove the skin from the kidneys. Cut them in thin 
 round slices, and let them soak in salted water for half 
 an hour. Now drain and wipe them. Put the butter 
 into a small frying-pan, and when it gets hot add the 
 kidneys and mushrooms. Stir for one minute, and then 
 add the flour. Stir one minute longer; then add the 
 stock or water, and cook slowly for three minutes. Add 
 the other ingredients, and boil up once. Serve on slices 
 of toast. 
 
 * Baked Hash. 
 
 Use a cupful of any kind of cold meat, chopped rather 
 coarse, a cupful of cold cooked rice, a generous cupful 
 
278 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 of milk, an egg, two table-spoonfuls of butter, one tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and one-eighth of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper. 
 
 Put the milk on the fire in a frying-pan, and when it 
 has become hot, add all the other ingredients except the 
 egg. Stir for one minute; then remove from the fire, 
 and add the egg, well beaten. Turn into an escalop dish, 
 and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Serve 
 in the same dish. 
 
 * Baked Hash. 
 
 Chop enough of the well-done parts of cold roast beef 
 to make two cupfuls. Add to the meat a cupful of cold 
 mashed potatoes, two table-spoonfuls of butter, half a 
 cupful of water, and two table-spoonfuls of bread crumbs, 
 and season well with salt and pepper. Bake in a shallow 
 dish for half an hour. Any kind of meat may be used 
 for baked hash. It should be chopped rather coarse. 
 
 * Corned Beef Hash. 
 
 The materials required are : a quart of the trimmings 
 of a piece of cold corned beef, a quart of cold boiled 
 potatoes, a large table-spoonful of butter, a cupful of 
 stock, or, if you have none, half a cupful of hot water ; 
 salt and pepper to suit the taste. Season the meat and 
 potatoes while you are chopping them rather fine ; then 
 mix them together rather lightly, and add the stock. 
 Put half the butter into a large frying-pan, and when it 
 has melted, put in the hash, spreading it evenly, and 
 laying the remainder of the butter on top in bits. Cover 
 the pan closely, and place it where the hash will cook 
 slowly for half an hour. There should be a thick, brown 
 crust on the bottom. Care must be taken to avoid burn- 
 ing. Having warmed a large platter, fold the hash, and 
 turn it out upon the dish as you would an omelet. Gar- 
 nish with triangles of toasted bread. 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 279 
 
 Other meats may be used instead of corned beef, yet 
 that is the best. The slow process of heating the hash 
 gives it a flavor that cannot be obtained by hurried cook- 
 ing. If more convenient, the hash may be prepared for 
 the frying-pan a day in advance of the cooking. 
 
 When more crust is desired, a table-spoonful of butter 
 may be melted in a second frying-pan ; and after the hash 
 has been browned, turn it into this pan, and brown it on 
 the other side. 
 
 * Tongue Hash. 
 
 Chop rather coarse the roots and trimmings of a tongue, 
 and to each pint of the chopped meat add a pint of cold 
 potatoes, chopped fine. Season well with salt and pepper, 
 and add half a cupful of water. Put a table-spoonful of 
 butter into the frying-pan, and when it has been melted, 
 turn the hash into the pan, spreading it evenly. Cover, 
 and place where it will brown for half an hour without 
 jurning ; then turn out upon a hot platter, and serve at 
 once. It should have a rich brown crust. 
 
 * Turkey Hash. 
 
 Cut a quart of cold turkey into dice, and season with 
 salt and pepper. Put two table-spoonfuls of butter into 
 a small frying-pan, and when it is hot, but not brown, 
 add a table-spoonful of flour. Stir until the mixture is 
 smooth and frothy, and gradually add a pint of cold 
 milk ; then let it boil up once, and after seasoning with 
 salt and pepper, add the seasoned turkey. Cook for 
 eight minutes. Have eight slices of dry toast on a 
 platter, and after spreading the hash upon them, serve 
 immediately. 
 
 Any kind of light meat, like chicken, game, or veal, 
 may be prepared and served in the same way. 
 
280 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Vegetable Hash. 
 
 The hashes that may be prepared from the remains 
 of a boiled dinner are by some folk thought to be even 
 more palatable than the dinner itself. Here is a receipt 
 for a hash made from vegetables : Chop rather coarse the 
 cabbage, turnips, parsnips, and about half of a small 
 carrot. Use with each quart of the mixed vegetables 
 one large table-spoonful of butter or beef drippings. 
 Season with salt and pepper, and add one-third of a cup- 
 ful of water or milk. Put the mixture into a frying-pan, 
 and after covering it, cook it slowly for half an hour, 
 stirring occasionally. Serve very hot. 
 
 This is a good dish for breakfast, luncheon, dinner, or 
 supper. Potatoes may be chopped and heated with the 
 other vegetables. Use the cold beets left from a boiled 
 dinner, either as a pickle or in a salad. 
 
 * Meat-and-Potato Hash. 
 
 Take enough of the trimmings of cold corned beef to 
 make three cupfuls when chopped rather fine. Use also 
 the same quantity of cold boiled potatoes, chopped ratner 
 coarse. Sprinkle both ingredients with salt and pepper ; 
 half a teaspoonful of pepper will be enough, and the 
 amount of salt will depend upon the saltness of the beef. 
 Add also one teaspoonful of grated onion. 
 
 After mixing the materials lightly with a fork, add 
 one-quarter of a cupful of milk. Put one table-spoonful 
 of butter into a frying-pan, and when it has become 
 melted, put in the hash. Spread it lightly on the bottom 
 of the pan, and after covering it closely, set it where it 
 will heat slowly and cook for half an hour or more. 
 There should be a rich brown crust on the bottom of 
 the hash when done. Slip a knife under it to ascertain 
 this fact. At serving-time fold the hash like an omelet, 
 and turn out on a warm platter. Garnish with triangu- 
 lar pieces of dry toast. 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 281 
 
 Force-meat Cakes. 
 
 Any kind of cold meat may be used. Enough to make 
 a pint should be chopped fine. In addition there will be 
 required half a pint of milk, a table-spoonful of salt, 
 half a teaspoonful of pepper, two table-spoonfuls of 
 butter, an egg, a pint of dried bread crumbs, half a pint 
 of stale bread, free of crust, and some fat for frying 
 purposes. 
 
 Put the milk and stale bread into a saucepan, and cook 
 slowly for ten minutes. After removing the mixture 
 from the stove, mash it very fine with the back of a 
 spoon ; then add the butter, meat, and seasoning. Shape 
 the mixture into small, flat cakes ; and after beating the 
 egg on a plate, dip the cakes into it and then into the 
 dried crumbs. Put a kettle of fat on the stove, and put 
 the cakes into a wire fry ing-basket. When smoke begins 
 to rise from the centre of the liquid, lower the basket 
 into the kettle. The cakes will cook in two minutes. 
 Drain them on brown paper, and serve hot. 
 
 * Baked Sausages. 
 
 After pricking the sausages, put them into a basin and 
 cover with boiling water. Boil for ten minutes ; then 
 remove from the hot water, and put into cold water for 
 two minutes. Roll in beaten egg and then in fine, dry 
 bread crumbs, and, laying them in a shallow pan, bake 
 in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. An egg and a pint 
 of crumbs will answer for a pound of sausages. Serve 
 on a hot dish, with a garnish of triangles of crisp toast. 
 
 Baked sausages are more delicate than fried ones. If 
 the meat be not in cases, omit the boiling, and proceed 
 with the breading and baking. 
 
 * Baked Rice and Sausages. 
 
 For six persons use a small teacupful of rice, eight 
 sausages, two quarts of boiling water, one table-spoonful 
 of salt, and a little pepper, if you choose. 
 
282 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Wash the rice in three waters, and then put it into a 
 large stew-pan with the boiling water. Boil, with the 
 cover off the pan, for twenty-five minutes, adding the 
 salt at the end of the first fifteen. When the rice is 
 cooked, drain it in a colander. Sprinkle lightly with 
 pepper, using about one-third of a teaspoonf ul, and then 
 spread in a rather shallow dish. Cut the sausages in 
 slices about one-third of an inch thick, and lay them on 
 the rice. Bake in a rather hot oven for twenty minutes, 
 and serve at once in the dish in which the cooking is 
 done. 
 
 If the sausage meat be in cakes or slices it may be 
 cut in small pieces and used the same as if it were in 
 cases. Cold cooked sausages may be used. 
 
 * Turkish Pilaf. 
 
 For this dish there will be required three pints of any 
 kind of cold meat, one quart of stock (which can be made 
 of the bones and bits of gristle taken from the cold meat), 
 two table-spoonfuls of flour, six of butter, an onion, a 
 cupful of strained tomato, a cupful of rice, and salt and 
 pepper for seasoning. 
 
 Wash the rice in three waters, and let it stand in cold 
 water for an hour. Put a cupful and a half of canned 
 tomato into a small stew-pan with half an onion, and 
 cook for twenty minutes ; then rub through a strainer. 
 There should be a generous cupful of the strained tomato. 
 Add to it a cupful and a half of stock, a teaspoonf ul of 
 salt, and a teaspoonful of pepper, and return to the stew- 
 pan ; and when it boils up, add the rice, strained free of 
 water. Put the mixture into a double-b&iler, and cook 
 for an hour; then add three table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 and cook for twenty minutes longer. 
 
 Meanwhile cut the meat into small slices, and season 
 with salt and pepper. Put three table-spoonfuls of but- 
 ter into the frying-pan; and when it is melted, put in 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 283 
 
 half an onion, cut into thin slices. Cook slowly until 
 the onion turns a light brown ; then add two table-spoon- 
 fuls of flour, and stir until the butter and flour are a 
 dark brown. Add two cupfuls and a half of stock, and 
 boil gently for five minutes. Season with salt and 
 pepper, and strain upon the meat. Cook the dish for 
 twelve minutes; then pour into the centre of a warm 
 platter, and heap the rice around it. Serve at once. 
 
 * Mt.-Desert Stew. 
 
 Put into a stew-pan a can of tomatoes, a table-spoonful 
 of cracker crumbs, a teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth of a 
 teaspoonful of pepper, and a piece of onion the size of 
 a quarter of a dollar, and simmer for twenty minutes ; 
 then add a table-spoonful of butter and three or four 
 well-beaten eggs. Cook a minute longer, stirring all the 
 while, and serve immediately. 
 
 This is a nice stew to serve with plain boiled macaroni, 
 boiled rice, or toast. 
 
 * Ham Cakes. 
 
 There will be required for these cakes four potatoes 
 of medium size, one cupful of fine-chopped ham (the dry 
 bits that cling to the bones will answer), three table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, and one-fourth of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper. Peel and boil the potatoes ; and when they are 
 cooked, mash them until fine and light. Add the ham, 
 pepper, and one table-spoonful of the butter. Mix well, 
 and shape into thin cakes about an inch and a half in 
 diameter. Put *the remaining butter on the stove in a 
 frying-pan, and as soon as it gets hot, put the cakes into 
 the pan. Brown on both sides, and serve on a warm 
 dish. 
 
 Deviled Ham. 
 
 Use for this dish half a pound of raw ham, cut in thin 
 slices, one table-spoonful of dry mustard, one of vinegar, 
 
284 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 two of melted butter, a quarter of a teaspoonful of cay- 
 enne, and a slight dredging of flour. 
 
 Mix all the ingredients except the ham and flour, and 
 spread the mixture on both sides of the slices of meat 
 (there should be two thin slices). Sprinkle the ham 
 with flour, and broil it over clear coals for seven or eight 
 minutes. Serve immediately on a warm dish. 
 
 Here is another receipt: The materials used are a 
 pound of cold boiled ham, cut in thin slices, three tea- 
 spoonfuls of dry mustard, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
 one-quarter of a teaspoonful of cayenne, three table- 
 spoonfuls of milk, three table-spoonfuls of melted butter 
 and half a cupful of powdered and sifted bread crumbs. 
 
 Mix the mustard, cayenne, salt, and milk, and spread 
 a thin layer of this paste over one side of each slice of 
 ham. Roll up the slices in a rather loose manner, and 
 fasten them with small skewers ; or, if you have no 
 skewers, use wooden toothpicks. When all the slices 
 have been rolled up and fastened, roll them in melted 
 butter and then in bread crumbs. Put into a baking-pan, 
 and cook in a very hot oven for eight minutes. Remove 
 the skewers, and serve the meat on thin strips of toast. 
 
 Deviled ham prepared by either of these rules is very 
 nice for breakfast, luncheon, or tea. Following the sec- 
 ond mode gives the more delicate dish, but gentlemen 
 are fond of ham cooked by the first receipt. 
 
 Deviled Boiled Ham. 
 
 This is a savory dish for luncheon or tea. Cut two 
 slices of cold boiled ham about one-third of an inch thick, 
 and sprinkle very lightly with cayenne. Mix a table- 
 spoonful of dry mustard, one of water, and one of lemon 
 juice. Broil the ham over a hot fire for six minutes; 
 then place it on a hot dish, and spread the mustard over 
 it. Serve hot. 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 285 
 
 *Pork Chops. 
 
 Have the chops cut thin. Put them in a stew-pan, and 
 cover with boiling water. Simmer for half an hour; 
 then remove from the water, and dredge lightly with 
 salt, pepper, and flour. Broil over a clear fire for ten 
 minutes. Prepared in this way, the pork will be well 
 cooked and tender. 
 
 * Broiled Pigs' Feet. 
 
 When pigs' feet are wanted for a breakfast dish they 
 must be boiled the previous day. One foot is enough 
 for each person. 
 
 Scrape the feet, and wash them thoroughly ; then tie 
 up each one in a separate piece of cheese cloth, and put 
 all into a stew-pan, with two table-spoonfuls of salt to 
 eight feet, and boiling water enough to cover them. Let 
 the water boil up once ; then set the pan back where the 
 feet will simmer for six hours. At the end of that time 
 take the pan from the fire, and set it where its contents 
 will become cool. When cold, remove the feet to a 
 platter and drain them, but do not take off the cloth. 
 In the morning remove the cloth and split the feet. 
 Dredge with salt, pepper, and flour, and broil over clear 
 coals for ten minutes. Place on a warm platter, and 
 season with salt, pepper, and butter. 
 
 * Fried Pigs' Feet. 
 
 Cook and cool the feet, as for broiling. Split them, 
 and season well with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Dip 
 in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boil- 
 ing fat for five minutes. Take up and drain, and serve 
 at once on a hot dish. 
 
 If eight feet be used, the ingredients needed with 
 them will be two eggs, one pint of crumbs, one table- 
 spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and two 
 table-spoonfuls of lemon juice. 
 
286 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Broiled Tripe. 
 
 Use the thick part of the tripe. If it has been in 
 pickle, wash it in cold water and put it into a stew-pan 
 with enough milk and water in equal parts to cover 
 it. Simmer gently for half an hour; then drain the 
 tripe, and season with salt and pepper. For each pound 
 melt three table-spoonfuls of butter on a plate ; and after 
 dipping the tripe in the butter and dredging it thickly 
 with flour, broil it over a hot fire for six minutes. Serve 
 very hot. 
 
 If the tripe has not been in pickle, cover it with hot 
 water, and simmer it for only ten minutes before season- 
 ing it and dipping it in butter. 
 
 Roast Ham, Stuffed. 
 
 Wash a large ham, and soak it for forty-eight hours in 
 water enough to cover it. In the morning place it on a 
 tin sheet in a large dripping-pan. Cover the entire ham 
 with a dough made of two quarts of flour and a generous 
 pint and a half of water, and bake slowly for five hours. 
 Make a dressing by soaking a quart of pieces of stale 
 bread in a generous pint of milk, seasoning it with salt 
 and pepper, and mixing it thoroughly with two eggs. 
 Take the ham from the oven, and remove the paste and 
 skin ; then score the top deeply, and fill the slits with 
 dressing. Spread over the ham such part of the dressing 
 as remains. Keturn the meat to the oven, and bake it 
 slowly for another hour. It will be delicious, hot or 
 cold, and especially nice, when hot, if served with cham- 
 pagne sauce or currant jelly sauce. 
 
 Roast Ham. 
 
 Wash a ham very carefully, and soak it for twenty-four 
 hours in two gallons of water and one pint of vinegar. 
 If it be put in soak in the morning, it will be ready for 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 287 
 
 baking the next morning. When sufficiently soaked, 
 wipe it carefully. Now make a dough with two quarts 
 of flour and a generous pint of water. Roll this into a 
 sheet large enough to cover the ham ; fold the ham in 
 this, and place it on a meat-rack in the dripping-pan. 
 Bake in a moderate oven for six hours. 
 
 On taking from the oven, remove the paste and skin 
 the ham. Sprinkle the top of the ham with fine crumbs, 
 and return to the oven for half an hour. 
 
 TD 
 
 Roast Pig. 
 
 The pig should be about three weeks old. The butcher 
 draws and scrapes it. The cook must clean it in the 
 following manner : Cover the point of a wooden skewer 
 with a piece of soft cloth, and work the skewer into the 
 ears to clean out all the wax. Clean the dirt from the 
 nostrils in the same manner. Clean the lips, gums, and 
 tongue by scraping with a sharp knife and then wiping 
 with a soft cloth. Take out the eyes. Now clean the 
 vent near the tail by pushing a skewer, wound with cloth, 
 through the vent from the inside. Wash the pig in cold 
 water, being careful to get the throat free of blood. 
 Wipe dry, and rub a table-spoonful of salt on the inside 
 of the pig. 
 
 Mix together three pints of grated bread crumbs, three 
 teaspoonfuls of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, one 
 table-spoonful of powdered sage, three table-spoonfuls of 
 butter, and one of minced onion. Fill the body of the pig 
 with this, and sew up. Press the fore feet forward and 
 the hind feet backward, and skewer them into position. 
 Butter two sheets of paper, and pin them over the ears. 
 Dredge the pig with salt, rub it over with soft butter, 
 and dredge with flour. Place in a dripping-pan and on 
 a rack, and cook in a moderately hot oven for three 
 hours and a half, basting every fifteen minutes with 
 butter or salad oil and a light sprinkling of salt and 
 
288 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 flour. Water must never be used, as it is important that 
 the surface of the meat should be crisp. Remove the 
 paper from the ears the last half-hour. 
 
 The pig may be served whole, or in four pieces. If 
 whole, force the mouth open and put a small block of 
 wood between the teeth before the pig is placed in the 
 oven. At serving-time remove the block, and insert in 
 its place a small ear of corn or a small lemon. Serve 
 plenty of apple sauce with this dish. 
 
 HOW TO PREPARE POULTRY AND 
 GAME. 
 
 To draw poultry or birds, first cut the skin on the 
 back of the neck. Now turn the skin over on the breast, 
 and cut off the neck close to the body. Take out the 
 crop, being careful not to leave any of the lining, which 
 is often a thin membrane that is hardly perceptible, es- 
 pecially when the bird has an empty crop. Most of the 
 undrawn poultry is kept without food for twelve or more 
 hours before killing. When this is the case the lining 
 of the sack, which is called the craw or crop, becomes 
 thin and soft. Special care is required to find and 
 remove it. 
 
 When the lining of the crop has been removed, put 
 the forefinger into the throat, and break the ligaments 
 that hold the internal organs to the breastbone. Now 
 cut the bird open at the vent, beginning under one of 
 the legs, and cutting in a slanting direction toward the 
 vent; stop there. Work the hand slowly around, not 
 through, the organs until the top of the breastbone is 
 reached. Now gently draw all the organs out at once. 
 It may be that the lights and a piece of the windpipe 
 will be left in. The lights will be found imbedded in 
 the ribs ; they are a soft, spongy pink substance. Look 
 into the throat for the windpipe. In the tail there will 
 be found a hard yellow substance, named the oil bag ; 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 289 
 
 cut it out. Cut off the legs, being sure to cut in the 
 joints. 
 
 Now singe the bird by holding it over a blazing news- 
 paper. The paper should be held over the open fire or 
 over a coal-hod. Wash the bird quickly in cold water. 
 If it is to be stuffed, fill the crop first, and put the re- 
 mainder of the stuffing into the body. Draw the skin at 
 the neck onto the back, and fasten it to the backbone with 
 a skewer. Turn the tips of the wings under the back, 
 and fasten them in that position with a long skewer. 
 Xow pass a small skewer through the lower part of the 
 legs, and then through the tail. Tie firmly with a long 
 piece of twine. Turn the bird on its breast, and then 
 bring the twine up round the skewers that hold the 
 wings and the neck. Twist round two or three times, 
 and tie. 
 
 Now season the bird with salt and pepper. If it is to 
 be roasted, rub the breast and legs thickly with soft 
 butter, and dredge thickly with flour. Follow the gen- 
 eral directions for boiling or roasting. 
 
 * Boiled Turkey. 
 
 Singe, draw, and wash a turkey weighing about nine 
 or ten pounds, and stuff with a dressing made by chop- 
 ping a quart of small oysters, rather coarse, and adding 
 to them a quart of grated bread crumbs, two level table- 
 spoonfuls of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, a grain 
 of cayenne, a quarter of a cupful of butter, and two eggs, 
 beaten slightly. Fill the breast of the bird with some 
 of this dressing, and put the remainder into the body. 
 Sew up, and truss. 
 
 Dip a large piece of cotton cloth into cold water, and 
 after wringing it well, dredge it thickly with flour. Pin 
 the turkey in this cloth, and plunge it into boiling 
 water. Boil rapidly for fifteen minutes, and then set 
 back where it will just simmer for three hours. Serve 
 with oyster sauce. 
 
 19 
 
290 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Roast Turkey. 
 
 Have a turkey weighing ten or twelve pounds. Singe, 
 draw, and wash it. Separate the skin from the flesh, as 
 directed for truffled turkey. Put between the skin and 
 flesh a thin layer of dressing described below, and put 
 the remainder into the crop and body. Truss the tur- 
 key, and proceed as for turkey stuffed with chestnuts. 
 Serve with giblet sauce. 
 
 Dressing. Put into a bowl one quart of grated stale 
 bread and one cupful of milk or water. Cover the mix- 
 ture, and let it stand one hour ; then add one teaspoon- 
 ful of chopped parsley, half a teaspoon ful of powdered 
 thyme, half a teaspoonful of summer savory, half a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, a level table-spoonful of salt, one 
 teaspoonful of onion, chopped fine, four table-spoonfuls 
 of butter, and two well-beaten eggs. Mix all well, and 
 then proceed to stuff the turkey. If the onion be ob- 
 jectionable, omit it. . 
 
 Truffled Turkey. 
 
 For a turkey weighing ten pounds, use one can of 
 truffles, next to the smallest size, one can of mushrooms, 
 one table-spoonful of chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful 
 of powdered thyme, one table-spoonful of chopped onion, 
 a generous half -cupful of butter, and some salt, pepper, 
 and flour. 
 
 Singe, draw, wash, and wipe the turkey. 
 
 Chop the truffles and mushrooms very fine, and add 
 the herbs to them. Put two table-spoonfuls of butter in 
 the frying-pan, with the chopped onion. Stir over the fire 
 until the onion turns a pale straw-color. Now add the 
 mushrooms and truffles ; also one-fourth of a teaspoonful 
 of pepper, and a generous teaspoonful of salt. Cook for 
 five minutes, stirring all the time. Take from the fire, 
 and cool. 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 291 
 
 Now lift the skin from the flesh on the breast of the 
 turkey by gently working the hand under the skin, being 
 careful not to break it. Begin the work at the neck. 
 Spread a thin layer of the mushroom and truffle mixture 
 over the flesh, and then draw the skin back smooth. Put 
 the remainder of the mixture into the crop and body of 
 the bird. Now truss, and then season with salt and 
 pepper. Coat the back lightly and the breast thickly 
 with soft butter, and dredge thickly with flour. Roast 
 the same as directed for turkey stuffed with chestnuts. 
 It will take about two hours and a half. Serve hot with 
 financiere sauce. 
 
 This is an expensive dish, owing to the high price of 
 truffles. 
 
 Roast Turkey with Chestnut Stuffing. 
 
 Singe, draw, and wash a turkey weighing eight or ten 
 pounds. Rub it, both inside and out, with one table- 
 spoonful of salt. Stuff it with one of the three chestnut 
 stuffings. Now truss it. Kub the back lightly and the 
 breast and legs thickly with soft butter, and dredge 
 thickly with flour. Place the turkey on its back on the 
 rack in the dripping-pan. Pour one cupful of boiling 
 water into the pan, and then place the turkey in a hot 
 oven. Watch, to see that the turkey does not get 
 scorched; and turn the pan, that the turkey may get 
 brown on all sides. When it has been in the oven 
 twenty-five minutes, begin to baste with the water in 
 the pan and with salt, pepper, and flour. Baste every 
 fifteen minutes until it is done. Be careful that the 
 water in the pan does not boil dry. In the last fifteen 
 minutes baste the breast with two table-spoonfuls of 
 melted butter and a light dredging of flour. Serve with 
 chestnut sauce. 
 
 Chestnut Stuffing. Shell and blanch fifty chestnuts, 
 and boil for half an hour in water enough to coyer them. 
 
292 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Drain off the water, and add to the nuts three table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, a level table-spoonful of salt, and 
 half a teaspooriful of pepper. Mix all these ingredients, 
 and stuff the turkey with them. The chestnuts will 
 be whole, dry, sweet, and tender when cooked in this 
 manner. 
 
 Here is another rule : Follow the foregoing receipt, 
 only pulverize the chestnuts, and then add the sea- 
 soning. 
 
 Still another rule, for a richer stuffing than those 
 already described, may be given. Shell and blanch fifty 
 chestnuts, and boil for half an hour. They may be used 
 whole or pulverized. In either case add to them one pint 
 of cooked meat veal, mutton, or poultry chopped 
 fine, one table-spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, half a tea- 
 spoonful of powdered thyme, and three table-spoonfuls of 
 butter. Mix all these ingredients, and stuff the turkey. 
 
 Braised Turkey. 
 
 Make a stuffing as for truffled turkey. With this, 
 stuff the crop and body of a plump young turkey weigh- 
 ing about eight pounds. Truss it. Now cut truffles 
 into small squares, and trim one end of them to a point. 
 Put the pointed end into a larding-needle, and draw them 
 in this way into the breast of the turkey. Put two rows 
 on each side of the breast and one row in each leg. 
 
 Spread thin slices of salt pork over the breast and legs. 
 Cover the turkey with a strong sheet of buttered paper. 
 Fasten on the paper by passing a string around the 
 bird. 
 
 Spread in a braising-pan, large enough to hold the 
 turkey, one-quarter of a pound of sliced salt pork, one 
 gill each of chopped celery, turnip, carrot, and onion ; 
 Lay the turkey on this pork, breast up. Cover the pan, 
 
I 
 
 I 
 
 VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 293 
 
 and place in a moderate oven. At the end of half an 
 hour add one quart of hot chicken stock. Baste the 
 turkey with this stock every fifteen minutes, and season 
 well at the same time with salt and pepper. Cook in 
 all for three hours. The last half-hour remove the cover 
 of the braising-pan ; also the paper and pork from the 
 breast of the turkey. Let the meat brown slightly. 
 
 When the turkey is done, lift it from the braising-pan, 
 untruss it, and put it on a large platter. Fasten paper 
 ornaments on the ends of the " drumsticks." Into these 
 
 Braised Turkey. 
 
 stick two small skewers, on which to fasten two button 
 mushrooms. Garnish the dish with groups of chicken 
 quenelles, cocks'-combs, and truffles, directions for the 
 use of which are given in the chapter on "Garnishes.'' 
 Serve mushroom brown sauce in a separate dish. 
 
 The stock in which the turkey was cooked will answer 
 for sauces. 
 
 Boiled Capon. 
 
 The capon should be cleaned and trussed as directed 
 for poultry and game. Stuff the crop and body with 
 three cupfuls of boiled rice, which has been mixed with 
 a table-spoonful each of salt and butter, half a teaspoon- 
 ful of pepper, and two well-beaten eggs. Truss the 
 capon, and put it in as small a stew-pan as will hold it. 
 
294 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Cover with boiling water, and cook for two hours and a 
 half. Garnish with rice balls, and serve w,ith Bechamel 
 thick yellow sauce, or mushroom white sauce. 
 
 Capon a la Jardiniere. 
 
 Omit the rice, and cook the capon as already directed. 
 When it is dished, surround it with a jardiniere garnish. 
 Pour a gill of poulette sauce over the capon, and send a 
 boat of the sauce to the table. 
 
 Roast Capon. 
 
 Clean the capon, and fill the body and crop with 
 stuffing made as follows : Mix lightly together three 
 cupf uls of grated stale bread, baker's is best, three 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, broken into bits, two teaspoon- 
 fuls of salt, half a teaspoonful of powdered thyme, one 
 teaspoonful of minced parsley, and half a cupful of mush- 
 rooms, chopped fine. 
 
 Truss the capon. Season with salt and pepper, and 
 rub the breast and legs thickly with butter, the rest of 
 the bird lightly. Dredge thickly with flour. Koast a 
 bird weighing seven or eight pounds two hours and a 
 quarter. Follow the directions given for roasting turkey 
 with chestnut stuffing. 
 
 A capon may be prepared by any of the rules given 
 for turkey. 
 
 Roast Chickens. 
 
 Make a stuffing the same as for capon. The chopped 
 mushrooms may be omitted. Prepare and roast the 
 chickens the same as the capon, allowing an hour and a 
 half for a pair of chickens each weighing between four 
 and five pounds. 
 
 GAME. 
 
 At some seasons most kinds of game are as cheap as 
 beef and mutton; and as game is healthful and easily 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 295 
 
 digested, the housekeeper should supply her table with it 
 frequently. Some people have nonsensical ideas in regard 
 to game ; having eaten it when it has become " high," 
 and has not been washed before cooking, and when it 
 has been heated only slightly, they imagine that there 
 is no other right way of serving it ; and so they either 
 do without it at all, or eat it without an appetite, and 
 solely because they think it is fashionable to have a 
 taste for such food. 
 
 Now game, like all other meat, should be kept long 
 enough to get properly ripened, and no longer. In cool 
 weather venison may be hung for three weeks in a cold, 
 dry place. Birds rarely should be hung longer than one 
 week. When to be hung many days, they should be 
 drawn, but not plucked. Pieces of charcoal placed in 
 the bodies will tend to preserve them. 
 
 After it has been hung, venison is "improved" that 
 is, seasoned by keeping it for several days in a mari- 
 nade, which not only gives it a spicy flavor, but makes 
 it tender. As a substitute for washing birds, where there 
 is objection to washing, draw and wipe them carefully. 
 Venison should only be wiped. 
 
 In cooking game use common sense, and do as you are 
 accustomed to do with beef and mutton. There can be 
 no doubt that these meats have a better flavor and are 
 more digestible when rare than when well done, but 
 there are hosts of people who cannot eat any kind of 
 meat when rare, and must have their game well done, 
 if they have it at all. They cannot derive the same 
 pleasure as those who cook it in the most approved way, 
 yet it may be better to have game well cooked than to 
 go entirely without it. 
 
 Simplicity is perfection in the art of all cooking, and 
 especially in cooking game, to which nothing should be 
 added, either in the preparation or serving, that will dis- 
 guise in the least the natural flavor of the meat. 
 
 No one who can command a bright, hot fire, and be 
 
296 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 assured that the company will be in their places at the 
 appointed hour, need fear to undertake the cooking of a 
 game dinner. A few things are always to be borne in 
 mind, namely, to serve it hot ; to have the sauces so 
 carefully chosen and made that the distinctive flavors of 
 the game shall be brought out, and not impaired in the 
 slightest degree; and to have the accompanying vege- 
 tables appropriate, delicate, and few. 
 
 Nearly all small birds are served with their heads on. 
 There is a difference in taste among epicures as to the 
 drawing of birds. Many folk do not enjoy them if 
 drawn, whereas others cannot eat them if undrawn. It 
 seems as if in time the custom of eating entrails a 
 relic of barbarism and serving the birds without first 
 removing their heads would become obsolete. 
 
 Game, on account of their almost constant activity, are 
 not usually so fat as domestic animals and fowls ; there- 
 fore more care must be taken to protect the fat and 
 juices, and venison, quail, grouse, and partridges are 
 nearly always enriched by larding or by placing slices of 
 fat pork or bacon over them. The fat and juices of a 
 joint of venison are also sometimes kept in by a thick 
 layer of flour paste. Ducks are so rich as to require no 
 sauce, though orange and olive sauces often are served 
 with them. 
 
 Kabbits, squirrels, grouse, and venison are among the 
 commonest and cheapest kinds of game ; and as there is 
 but little waste in cooking them, they will average as 
 low in cost as mutton and beef. Ducks always are expen- 
 sive, whatever the price, because there is but little avail- 
 able meat. When it comes to choice ducks, only the 
 rich can afford to buy them. 
 
 Roast Leg of Venison. 
 
 Use a leg of venison weighing about ten pounds, half 
 a cupful of butter, half a pound of larding pork, some 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 297 
 
 salt, pepper, and flour, and half a pint of port or claret, 
 if liked. 
 
 Wipe the meat carefully, and then draw off the dry 
 skin. Lard the lean side of the leg. Have the butter 
 soft, and rub half of it over the meat ; then dredge with 
 salt, pepper, and flour, being generous with the flour. 
 Lay the meat on the rack in the dripping-pan, and sprinkle 
 the bottom of the pan with flour. Place in a very hot 
 oven, and watch carefully until the flour in the pan 
 browns. This will be in about five minutes. Now add 
 enough boiling water to cover the bottom of the pan, 
 and close the oven door. In fifteen minutes begin to 
 baste the venison with the gravy in the pan, and with 
 salt, pepper, and flour. Do this every fifteen minutes 
 until the meat is cooked enough. 
 
 The water in the pan must be renewed often. The 
 last basting should, be with soft butter and flour. If the 
 meat be wished very rare, an hour and a quarter's cook- 
 ing will suffice, but for most tastes an hour and a half 
 will be none too much. Serve very hot with currant 
 jelly sauce or a gravy made from the drippings in the 
 pan. Many people baste the venison with port or claret 
 instead of the gravy in the pan. 
 
 The oven must be very hot the first half-hour, and 
 after that the heat must be reduced a little. 
 
 If the leg of venison is to be roasted before the fire, 
 treat it in the same manner, except that it will require 
 twenty minutes longer to cook. 
 
 Saddle of Venison, Larded and Roasted. 
 
 Cut the flanks from a saddle of venison, and wipe the 
 meat with a damp towel, being careful to remove all the 
 hairs. Lard it. Dredge generously with salt and lightly 
 with pepper; also rub soft butter over the top of the 
 saddle, and dredge thickly with flour. Roast and serve 
 the same as a leg. A. thick saddle weighing eight pounds 
 
298 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Larded Saddle of Venison. 
 
 | 
 
 will require an hour and a quarter's cooking, if it be 
 wished very rare ; cooking for an hour and a half will 
 leave it moderately rare. 
 
 * Venison Steaks. 
 
 Have the steaks cut three-quarters of an inch thick. 
 Season them with salt and pepper, and dip them in melted 
 butter and in flour. Broil over a bright, hot fire for six 
 minutes, turning constantly. Serve immediately with 
 maitre d'hotel butter spread over them. If for luncheon 
 or dinner, provide thin fried potatoes or potato balls 
 and cauliflower or French peas as accompaniments. 
 
 Here is another mode of cooking venison steaks : Have 
 them cut half an inch thick. Season them with salt and 
 pepper, and for two small slices of steak put two table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, three of stock, one of currant jelly, 
 one teaspoonful of lemon juice, and a slight seasoning 
 of salt and pepper into a chafing-dish. Light the lamp, 
 and as soon as the mixture begins to boil, put in the 
 steaks. Cook for six minutes, turning frequently. This 
 cooking is, of course, to be done at the table. 
 
 Slices of cold venison are nice if warmed in a chafing- 
 dish and served with the gravy or sauce left from a pre- 
 vious meal. Cold roast venison may be warmed and 
 served with a brown sauce or curry sauce, or as hash on 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 299 
 
 toast. Still another way of serving is to cut it into 
 thick slices, make incisions in these slices and fill them 
 with a thin coating of mixed mustard and olive oil, dip 
 the slices into melted butter and dredge lightly with 
 flour, broil for five minutes over a hot fire, and serve 
 with butter on a hot dish. 
 
 Venison Steak Cooked in the Chafing-dish. 
 
 This is one of the most appetizing modes of preparing 
 venison. Being cooked on the table, it is transferred 
 without loss of heat or flavor to the plate of the guest 
 from the dish in wljich it was cooked. Slices of rare 
 venison, cut from a cold roast, are particularly nice 
 cooked in this manner. 
 
 Use a pound and a half of venison, cut in small slices 
 not thicker than half an inch. Put in the chafing-dish 
 two table-spoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, 
 one of lemon juice, one-tenth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, 
 and one table-spoonful of currant jelly. Now light the 
 lamp, and stir the mixture until it is hot ; then add the 
 slices of venison, and cook for five minutes. If rare 
 roast venison be used, four minutes will be enough time 
 to cook it. Sometimes three table-spoonfuls of port or 
 claret are added to the meat during the last two minutes 
 of cooking. 
 
 * Hashed Venison. 
 
 Season well with salt and pepper a pint and a half 
 of coarse-chopped venison. Put two table-spoonfuls of 
 butter into a frying-pan, and when it becomes hot, add a 
 table-spoonful of chopped onion. Cook the onion until 
 it becomes brown; then add a large table-spoonful of 
 flour, and stir until the sauce is smooth and frothy. 
 Draw the pan back to a cooler part of the range, and 
 gradually add a cupful and a half of stock. Season well 
 with salt and pepper ; and after straining, turn it into 
 
300 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 the pan containing the chopped venison. Cook slowly 
 for ten minutes, and serve very hot on slices of buttered 
 toast. 
 
 Ragout of Venison. 
 
 Use three pounds of cold roast venison, one quart of 
 water, one bay leaf, one sprig of parsley, two whole 
 cloves, one clove of garlic, two level teaspoonfuls of salt, 
 one-eighth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, a slight grating 
 of nutmeg, three table-spoonfuls of butter, three of flour, 
 one-quarter of a pound of fresh mushrooms, and eight 
 rounds of bread fried in clarified butter. 
 
 Free the venison of skin, fat, and bone ; then cut it 
 into cubes about an inch square. fet the meat in a cool 
 place. Put the bones and gristle into a stew-pan, with 
 the water, spice, herbs, and garlic. Place on the fire, 
 and boil until there is but one pint of the liquid left. 
 Strain and cool this. 
 
 Put the butter on the fire in a small frying-pan, and 
 when it becomes hot, add the flour, and stir until it 
 turns dark brown. Gradually add the strained stock to 
 this mixture. Boil for ten minutes ; then add the veni- 
 son, salt, and pepper, and simmer for ten minutes. At 
 the end of that time add the mushrooms and lemon juice, 
 and cook six minutes longer. 
 
 Arrange the meat in a pyramid on a warm dish, and 
 garnish the base with the fried bread. Serve very hot. 
 
 Venison Cutlets. 
 
 Cut the cutlets from either the ribs or a loin of veni- 
 son, having them about an inch thick. Wipe carefully, 
 and season with salt and pepper. Now dip them in melted 
 butter, and dredge thickly with flour. Broil over a clear 
 fire for ten minutes, turning constantly. Arrange on a 
 hot dish, and season with salt, pepper, and butter. 
 Serve currant jelly with them ; or currant jelly sauce or 
 port sauce may be poured around them. 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 301 
 
 Fillets of Venison. 
 
 Have two pounds of venison steak cut into strips 
 about four inches long, three wide, and half an inch 
 thick. Put them in a bowl for twelve hours with one 
 gill of vinegar, half a gill of olive oil, one table-spoonful 
 each of chopped onion and carrot, half a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, a generous teaspoonful of salt, two bay leaves, 
 and a sprig of parsley. Stir the mixture several times, 
 that all parts of the venison may be well seasoned with 
 the marinade. 
 
 When ready to cook the fillets, free them of the mar- 
 inade, and dredge lightly with flour. Set them in a cool 
 place for ten minutes, while making the sauce. Next 
 put two table-spoonfuls of butter in a stew-pan and on 
 the fire. When it becomes hot, add two table-spoonfuls 
 of flour, and stir until the flour gets browned. Gradually 
 add a cupful of stock. Boil for one minute ; then add 
 the marinade in which the fillets were soaked. Now 
 add one- tenth of a teaspoonful of cayenne as well as 
 you can measure it . and some more salt, if necessary. 
 Set back, and simmer while the fillets are being broiled. 
 
 Put the fillets in a double-broiler, and cook them over a 
 hot, clear fire for six minutes. Arrange them on a warm 
 dish, and strain the sauce over them. Serve at once. 
 
 Roast Ducks. 
 
 Tastes vary greatly in regard to the time and mode of 
 roasting ducks. Domestic ducks are rarely cooked less 
 than half an hour. Wild ducks are cooked from ten 
 minutes to half an hour. Ten minutes will hardly heat 
 the duck through, and half an hour will give only a mod- 
 erately rare bird. A duck is spoiled if overcooked ; but 
 for the majority of tastes, from twenty to thirty minutes 
 will give satisfactory results. 
 
 Draw the duck, and wash quickly in cold water. Put 
 two table-spoonfuls of chopped onion and one cupful 
 
302 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 of chopped celery the green stalks will do into the 
 body of each bird. Now truss, and then dredge with 
 salt, pepper, and flour. Roast before a very hot fire or 
 in a hot oven. Have a little water in the tin-kitchen or 
 in the bottom of the pan, if the birds be roasted in the 
 oven. Baste every ten minutes with this and with salt, 
 pepper, and flour. Serve very hot with olive, brown, 
 or orange sauce. Or the ducks may be served without 
 sauce, dressed celery or lettuce being provided instead. 
 Do not serve the stuffing of onion and celery, as this is 
 put in only to flavor the bird. 
 
 Roast Ptarmigan. 
 
 Pluck and draw the birds. Wash quickly in cold 
 water, and wipe dry. Into the body of each put one 
 onion, cut into four parts. Now truss the birds. Dredge 
 with salt and pepper; then rub the breast and legs 
 thickly with soft butter, and put a light layer on the 
 sides and back. Dredge thickly with flour. Place on 
 their backs in a shallow pan, and cook for twenty min- 
 utes in a hot oven, if liked rare, 'or for thirty, if liked 
 rather well done. Serve with bread sauce and fried 
 crumbs. 
 
 Grouse, quail, and partridges are roasted in the same 
 manner. Partridges are cooked for forty minutes, and 
 quail for only ten. 
 
 Roast Partridge. 
 
 For six persons cook two partridges. Pluck and draw 
 them, and wash them very 
 quickly in cold water. Halve 
 an onion, and put a piece 
 into the body of each bird. 
 Truss the partridges, and 
 lard the breasts. Dredge 
 with salt, and rub soft butter 
 over the legs and breast; then dredge the entire birds 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 303 
 
 thickly with flour. Place in a pan, breasts up, and set 
 in a very hot oven. Eoast for forty minutes, basting 
 three times with butter, water, or stock, salt, pepper, 
 and flour. Use half a dozen table-spoonfuls of hot water 
 and three of butter, in basting. Serve the birds hot, 
 with bread sauce. 
 
 - 
 
 Roast Woodcock on Toast. 
 
 Pick, singe, and draw the birds ; then skin the heads, 
 and remove the eyes. Cut off the feet or not, as suits 
 your fancy. Fasten the legs against the sides of the 
 birds by turning the heads backward on one side, and 
 using the long bills as skew- 
 ers, as illustrated. Lard 
 the breasts with very fine 
 strips of salt pork. Dredge 
 lightly with salt and pepper, 
 and after rubbing thickly 
 with soft butter, dredge 
 with flour. Lay the birds 1 
 
 on their backs in a flat pan, Woodcock Beady for Roasting, 
 and cook for fifteen minutes in a very hot oven. Serve 
 immediately on toast made of stale bread, cut into slices 
 large enough to hold a single bird, and nicely browned. 
 
 When the birds are drawn, save the liver, blood, and 
 lungs, and after chopping very fine, season with salt, 
 pepper, and butter, two table-spoonfuls of butter for 
 each bird. Spread this mixture upon the toast, and 
 place the latter in the oven for the last four minutes 
 that the woodcocks are cooking. After the birds have 
 been disposed on the toast, garnish with water-cresses 
 and quarters of lemons. 
 
 The dish should be eaten without delay, or it will 
 deteriorate. 
 
 These birds frequently are cooked undrawn, only the 
 crop being removed. 
 
304 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Broiled Grouse. 
 
 Split the birds down the back. Lay a folded towel on 
 the breast, and strike hard with the vegetable-masher. 
 This will flatten the breastbone. Now wipe clean, and 
 then dredge with plenty of salt and a little pepper. 
 Rub soft butter over the bird, and dredge thickly with 
 flour. Broil over a clear fire for fifteen minutes. Serve 
 on a hot dish, with salt, pepper, and butter. 
 
 In the time given, the meat will be cooked rare ; if 
 liked better done, broil for twenty minutes. 
 
 Ptarmigan may be broiled in the same way. 
 
 . 
 
 Broiled Partridge. 
 
 Prepare and serve the same as grouse, save that par- 
 tridge, being white meat, should be broiled for twenty- 
 five minutes. 
 
 Small Birds in Crumbs. 
 
 For a dozen reed birds, allow a pint of coarse crumbs, 
 half a cupful of fine bread crumbs, seven table-spoonfuls 
 of butter, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and salt 
 and pepper. 
 
 Draw and wipe the birds, and draw the skin from the 
 heads and necks. Cut off the feet, and press the legs 
 into the bodies. Fasten the heads under the wings by 
 pressing the bills into the bodies. When all the birds 
 have been trussed, season them with salt and pepper, 
 and roll them in three table-spoonfuls of melted butter, 
 and then in the fine bread crumbs and chopped parsley. 
 Place them on their backs on a tin plate or in a tin pan, 
 and set them in a hot oven for five minutes. Have the 
 coarse crumbs crisp and brown, and spread them upon 
 a hot dish. Lay the birds upon this bed of crumbs, 
 and pour over them the gravy from the pan in which 
 they were roasted. Garnish with parsley, and serve 
 immediately. 
 
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 305 
 
 To Prepare the Crumbs. Cut a loaf of stale bread in 
 two from the side, and grate on a coarse grater until the 
 top and the bottom crusts have been reached (they can be 
 dried and rolled for breading). Put the crumbs into a 
 large dripping-pan, and place them in a moderate oven 
 until they become dry. Be careful that they do not get 
 very brown. Put four table-spoonfuls of butter into a 
 large frying-pan, and when it is very hot, add the crumbs. 
 Stir over a hot fire until they are golden brown and very 
 crisp. The crumbs may be prepared at any time during 
 the day, but they must be made very hot at serving- 
 time. 
 
 Barded and Roasted Snipe. 
 
 Eemove the crop, skin the head, take out the eyes, and 
 draw the bird or not, as your taste dictates. Season with 
 salt. Draw the head down to the feet. Wrap the bird 
 in a thin slice of clear salt pork. Bun a skewer through 
 
 
 Barded Snipe. 
 
 the bird to keep the pork (bard), head, and feet in posi- 
 tion. Bun from three to six birds on each skewer. Bub 
 soft butter over the parts that are not covered with the 
 pork, and dredge the whole bird with flour. 
 
 Put as many small slices of toast on the bottom of a 
 shallow cake-pan as there are snipe. Best the ends of 
 the skewers on the edges of the pan. Place in a very 
 hot oven, and cook foff ten minutes. On taking the pan 
 from the oven, slip one snipe on each slice of toast. 
 Serve immediately. 
 
 Any small birds may be prepared in this manner. 
 
306 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Jugged Rabbit. 
 
 American wild rabbits are almost equal in flavor to 
 the English hare, and may be prepared in the same 
 manner. For six persons take two rabbits, an onion, 
 two bay leaves, three cloves, half a dozen allspice, one 
 table-spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, one 
 table-spoonful of lemon juice, four table-spoonfuls of 
 sherry, half a cupful of butter, four table-spoonfuls of 
 flour, three cupfuls of water, one table-spoonful of mush- 
 room ketchup. If port be preferred to sherry, use a gill. 
 The dish will be good even if no wine be used. 
 
 Have the rabbits skinned by .the butcher. Draw them, 
 and wash carefully ; then cut into handsome pieces, and 
 roll these in flour. Put the butter into a frying-pan, and 
 when it gets hot, put in the meat. Brown well on both 
 sides, being careful not to burn. When the meat has 
 been well browned, put it into a stew-pan, and put into 
 the frying-pan such flour as remained after the meat was 
 rolled in it. Stir until the mixture gets smooth ; then 
 add the water, and cook for ten minutes. Pour this 
 liquid over the meat in the stew-pan. Add the spice, 
 salt, pepper, and the onion, uncut. Cover closely, and 
 simmer for an hour and a half; then add the wine, 
 lemon juice, and ketchup. Arrange the rabbit on a warm 
 platter, and strain the sauce over it. Serve with a dish 
 of boiled rice. 
 
 
 
ENTRIES. 
 
 307 
 
 ENTRIES. 
 
 Fillet of Beef. 
 
 WITH a sharp knife, remove the tough membrane from 
 the upper side of a tenderloin. This is done in the same 
 manner as skinning a fish. Fold the thin end under, 
 and skewer it into position ; then lard it. Season with 
 pepper and salt. Now rub soft butter over it, and dredge 
 thickly with flour. Place in a dripping-pan, larded side 
 
 Larded Fillet of Beef. 
 
 up, and roast in a hot oven for twenty-five minutes, if 
 desired very rare, or for thirty, if moderately rare. It 
 will not require any basting. Serve with any of the 
 following-named sauces poured around it : mushroom, 
 Spanish, Chateaubriand, or financiere. 
 
 Should only a small fillet be required, have it cut from 
 the thickest part of the tenderloin. Cook it the same 
 time and in the same manner as if it were a whole 
 tenderloin. 
 
 When the entire tenderloin is used, it should be carved 
 in the centre ; but when only a few pounds are used, the 
 
- 308 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Larded Fillet of Beef. 
 
 carving is done from the end. Sometimes the smaller 
 piece in the above illustration is cut from the fillet and 
 sliced and then replaced, before the dish is sent to the 
 table. 
 
 Fillet of Beef a la Bearnaise. 
 
 For eight persons allow about three pounds of the 
 tenderloin of beef. Out it in slices about three-quarters 
 of an inch thick. Sprinkle these slices with salt, pepper, 
 and flour, and broil over a bright fire for seven minutes. 
 Place on a warm dish, and pour hot Bearnaise sauce 
 around the meat. Serve at once. 
 
 Fillet Steaks with Olives. 
 
 Cut six steaks from the thickest part of the fillet. 
 They should be about three-quarters of an inch thick. 
 Now cut each slice into two triangular pieces. Sprinkle 
 a table-spoonful of lemon juice over them, and brush them 
 over with olive oil or melted butter. Put them in a cold 
 place for an hour or more. 
 
 Stone the olives, and simmer in clear stock for half an 
 hour. Have a brown sauce ready. Ten minutes before 
 serving-time, put the steaks to broil over a clear fire. 
 Cook them for six minutes. Arrange in a circle, with 
 the points overlapping, on a warm dish j fill the centre 
 
ENTREES. 309 
 
 with the olives. Pour the brown sauce around 'the meat, 
 and serve very hot. 
 
 With the six slices of steak, use three gills of brown 
 sauce and two dozen olives. 
 
 Fillet Steaks a la Chateaubriand. 
 
 Have the steaks cut from the best part of the tender- 
 loin and about an inch and a quarter thick. Rub them 
 with a slice of onion, season with salt and pepper, and 
 brush melted butter or olive oil over them. Broil over 
 clear coals for ten minutes. Arrange them on a hot dish, 
 and pour Chateaubriand sauce over them. Garnish with 
 potato balls saute. 
 
 For ten persons use five or six slices of tenderloin, one 
 pint of sauce, and a pint and a half of potato balls. 
 
 Grenadins of Fillet of Beef. 
 
 Cut five slices, each about one-third of an inch thick, 
 from the thickest part of a tenderloin of beef. Trim 
 them into a regular shape. Lard them on one side with 
 fine lardoons, which should be not much thicker than a 
 match. Place them with as much 
 regularity as possible. Season the 
 grenadins with salt and pepper, roll 
 them in melted butter, and lay them 
 in a dripping-pan with the larded A Larded Grenadin . 
 side up. Cook in a hot oven for 
 eight minutes. Take the pan from the oven, and pour 
 off the fat. 
 
 Have two table-spoonfuls of Madeira and three of 
 glaze heated together. Baste the grenadins with this, 
 and return to the oven for two minutes. Arrange them 
 on a hot dish, and pour mushroom or any rich brown 
 
 sauce around them. 
 
 v 
 
 The matter of larding is very simple, and yet many 
 persons fail in this because they do not understand the 
 
310 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 few principles necessary for the work. In the first place, 
 the pork must be of the right kind. It should always be 
 firm and free from lean. The dry-salted is best when it 
 can be obtained. The surface of the rind of the pork 
 should be level, or nearly so. When it curves it is im- 
 possible to cut even slices from it. 
 
 Measure to see how long you want the lardoons (the 
 little strips of pork). Now cut the piece of pork this 
 length. With a sharp knife cut off the rind, and then 
 cut slices thick or thin, as you may desire your lar- 
 
 
 
 Method of Larding Meat. 
 
 . 
 
 doons large or small. The slices must be cut parallel 
 with the rind and only to the line in the pork which 
 shows that a newer and softer layer of fat had formed 
 beyond it. This part of the pork will not n erve for 
 lardoons, as the fibres are too loose and will break when 
 the lardoon is drawn through the meat. Cut the slices 
 of pork into strips that are of equal breadth on all four 
 sides, so that the ends form a square. Great care must 
 be taken that these strips are cut even, because if 
 uneven there will be difficulty in drawing them through 
 
ENTRIES. 311 
 
 the meat. Put these lardoons into a bowl with plenty 
 of ice and a little water. This will harden them. 
 
 Put a lardoon into the needle. Run this into the 
 article to be larded. It should go about one-third of an 
 inch under the surface of the flesh, and the point should 
 come out about three-fourths of an inch from the place 
 where it went in. 
 
 When the needle is nearly through, hold the end of the 
 lardoon with one hand to prevent its being drawn farther 
 into the meat. About one-third of the lardoon must be 
 exposed at each end, as shown in the illustration. 
 
 Sweetbreads, grenadins, and fillets of game or fowl 
 require lardoons about the size of a large match. Fillets 
 of beef and fricandeaux of veal should have lardoons 
 four times as large. Lardoons for small birds should 
 be twice as large as for sweetbreads ; and for grouse, par- 
 tridge, ptarmigan, etc., about three times as large as for 
 sweetbreads. 
 
 If these directions be followed carefully, one will find 
 no difficulty in larding. 
 
 Paupiettes of Fillet of Beef, with Olives. 
 
 There will be required for this dish one pound and a 
 half of the tenderloin of beef, cut from the thickest part, 
 the materials named in the rule for dark chicken force- 
 meat, two dozen stuffed olives, a pint and a half of con- 
 somme", four table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 one table-spoonful of arrowroot, a table- 
 spoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful 
 of pepper. 
 
 Cut the tenderloin in very thin slices. Paupiette of 
 There should be seven slices. Cut each 
 slice in two, lengthwise. Spread these strips on a board, 
 and season them with salt and pepper. Spread a thin 
 layer of the force-meat on each strip of meat ; then roll 
 this up and tie it. Put the butter into a flat stew-pan, 
 
312 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 and place it on the fire. When it is hot, put in the 
 paupiettes, and cook them until brown on all sides. 
 They must be watched carefully, arid turned often. 
 When they are all browned, pour over them one pint of 
 consomme. Cover closely, and set back where they will 
 simmer for one hour. At the end of this time mix the 
 arrowroot with one gill of cold consomme, and stir it 
 into the gravy in which the paupiettes are cooking. 
 Simmer half an hour longer. 
 
 Put the olives into a small saucepan with the remain- 
 ing gill of consomme, and simmer for half an hour. Now 
 take up the paupiettes, cut the strings, and remove them. 
 Arrange the paupiettes in the centre of a dish, and gar- 
 nish with the olives. Strain the sauce over the meat, and 
 serve. This dish will be sufficient for a party of twelve. 
 
 Paupiettes of Fillet of Beef, with Mushrooms. 
 
 Prepare and cook the meat as for paupiettes with 
 olives. Add one pound of fresh mushrooms ten minutes 
 before serving. If the mushrooms be large, cut them. 
 If it be inconvenient to obtain fresh mushrooms, use 
 the canned ; but in that case cook them five minutes. 
 
 * Beefsteak, with Fried Spanish Onions. 
 
 For this dish there will be required a steak cut an 
 inch thick, and weighing about two pounds and a half, 
 three table-spoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful and a 
 half of salt, one-fifth of a teaspoonful of pepper (unless 
 there be objection to the use of any whatever), one table- 
 spoonful of flour, two good-sized Spanish onions, and 
 some fat, for the purpose of frying. 
 
 Put a kettle of fat on to heat. Pare the onions, and 
 slice them as thin as possible. Place them in a fryirig- 
 basket, ready for cooking. Dredge the steak with the 
 pepper, one teaspoonful of the salt, and all the flour ; 
 then broil it over a clear fire for ten minutes, turning 
 
ENTRIES. 313 
 
 constantly. During the first four minutes keep the steak 
 as near the coals as possible, but for the remaining time 
 hold the broiler at a little distance from the coals. By 
 this mode of broiling, the steak will be left juicy and 
 will be cooked evenly, being nearly as rare just below 
 the surface as in the centre. 
 
 As soon as the meat is taken from the fire, put the 
 basket of sliced onions into the boiling fat, and cook for 
 three minutes. In that time the onions ought to turn 
 a rich brown color; they also should be crisp. Place 
 the steak on a warm dish, and spread the butter over it. 
 Drain the onions, and arrange them around the steak. 
 Serve at once. 
 
 The onions may be served on a separate dish instead 
 of round the steak. They are also suitable to serve 
 with any kind of roasted or broiled meat. 
 
 * Marrow-bones. 
 
 Beef marrow, when well cooked, is considered by some 
 people as a great delicacy. Have the bones cut either 
 two or four inches long. Make a stiff dough with flour 
 
 Marrow-bones and Tenderloin Steak. 
 
 and water. Wash and wipe the bones. Eoll the dough 
 on the board until it is about one-fourth of an inch thick. 
 Cut out pieces about two inches square to cover the ends 
 of the marrow-bones. Pin the bones in a piece of cloth, 
 and after laying them in a stew-pan, cover with boiling 
 
314 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 water and boil for one hour. Now take them up, and 
 remove the cloth and paste. If the marrow is to be 
 served in the long bones, they must have small fringed 
 napkins pinned around them. They are passed with 
 little squares of buttered toast. There must be a small 
 spoon, having a long handle, with which to take put the 
 marrow. 
 
 Another way is to have the bones cut about two inches 
 long, and when the marrow is done, put a bone in the 
 centre of a small slice of buttered toast. Serve each 
 guest with one of these. 
 
 "Still another way is to cook the marrow in the long 
 bones and then spread it on hot toast. 
 
 No matter what mode of cooking is followed, the dish 
 must be served very hot. It is usual to season the 
 marrow with cayenne. This dish may be served at 
 luncheon or supper. 
 
 The butcher will cut the bones any length you wish. 
 Marrow-bones are frequently served on broiled steak, 
 particularly tenderloin. 
 
 * Stewed Ox Tails, with Turnips. 
 
 For six persons use three ox tails, 1;hree table-spoonfuls 
 of chopped onion, two of chopped carrot, two of chopped 
 celery, four of butter, four of flour, one pint of water, 
 one pint and a half of stock, one quart of turnips, cut 
 into small cubes, one teaspoonful of sugar, and salt and 
 pepper in quantities to suit your taste. 
 
 Cut the tails at the joints, and wash them carefully. 
 Cover them with cold water, and let them soak for an 
 hour. At the end of that time put them into a stew-pan 
 with enough boiling water to cover them, and boil for 
 ten minutes. Drain off all the water, and after putting 
 into the pan a pint of fresh boiling water and a pint of 
 the stock, set the pan where its contents will simmer. 
 Put three table-spoonfuls of butter and all the chopped 
 
ENTRIES. 315 
 
 vegetables into a small frying-pan, and cook slowly for 
 ten minutes ; then set the pan where the vegetables will 
 cook rapidly for two minutes. Stir constantly all the 
 while. Draw the vegetables to one side of the pan, and 
 press out the butter ; then put them with the ox tails. 
 Stir the flour into the butter remaining in the pan, and 
 continue stirring until the flour becomes dark brown. 
 Add this mixture to the contents of the stew-pan, and 
 stir well. Add a level table-spoonful of salt and half a 
 teaspoonful of pepper; then cover closely, and simmer 
 for three hours. 
 
 When the ox tails have been cooking for two hours, 
 put the quart of turnips into a stew-pan with two quarts 
 of boiling water, and cook for thirty minutes. At the 
 end of that time drain off all the water, and add to the 
 turnips one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of sugar, 
 one table-spoonful of butter, and half a pint of stock. 
 Set the pan where the contents will boil rapidly until all 
 the liquid has been absorbed by the turnips. Shake the 
 stew-pan frequently during the cooking, and finally set 
 it back where the contents will keep hot until serving- 
 time. 
 
 Now skim off any fat which may have accumulated on 
 the surface of the liquid or gravy in which the ox tails 
 are cooking. Taste the gravy, to be sure that it is prop- 
 erly seasoned ; then transfer the ox tails to the centre of 
 a warm platter, and strain the gravy over them. Heap 
 the turnip around the meat. 
 
 This is not a handsome dish, but it is delicious. 
 Carrots or other vegetables may be used instead of tur- 
 nips as a garnish. 
 
 Ox Palates. 
 
 These are not used much in cookery, except by pro- 
 fessionals who understand their value as the foundation 
 of many nice entrees. Not being in great demand, they 
 are cheap. The bony, hard palate, which forms the 
 
316 MISS PAELOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 roof of the mouth, is the most desirable part ; the soft, 
 hanging palate is not generally used in the little entrees 
 included in the following receipts. The palates must be 
 cleaned and boiled before they are used in any form. 
 Three will be enough for an entree for eight persons. 
 
 Put the palates into a large pan with three or four 
 quarts of water, and soak for three or four hours. 
 Change the water three times. Now wash the palates 
 thoroughly in two or three waters. Put them into a 
 stew-pan with cold water enough to cover, and heat 
 them to the boiling-point. Boil for ten minutes ; then 
 pour off the water, and cover with cold water. Scrape 
 off the skin, and wash again. Now put the palates into 
 the stew-pan with enough boiling water to cover them, 
 and boil gently for five hours. At the end of four hours 
 put into the pan an onion, a carrot, two cloves, a bay 
 leaf, one table-spoonful of salt, one of vinegar, and half a 
 teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
 When the palates are done, drain them, and spread 
 them in a large flat pan. Place a tin sheet or pan on top 
 of them, and on this put a weight, two bricks will do. 
 Set the palates in a cold place until it is time to prepare 
 them for an entre'e. 
 
 Breaded Ox Palates. 
 
 Cut some pressed palates into pieces about four inches 
 long and three broad. Put these into a bowl, and pour 
 over them a marinade made in the following manner: 
 Mix in a cup two table-spoonfuls of lemon juice, two of 
 oil, one of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Let 
 the meat stand in this seasoning for two or three hours, 
 stirring it occasionally, that all parts may come in con- 
 tact with the liquid. Now dip the meat in beaten eggs, 
 and then roll them in bread crumbs. Place in a frying- 
 basket, and cook in fat for two minutes. Drain on brown 
 paper, and serve on a hot dish with tomato sauce. 
 
ENTRIES. 317 
 
 Broiled Palates. 
 
 Cut the pressed palates into strips about five inches 
 long and four wide. Season well with salt and pepper, 
 and with a little lemon juice, if you choose. Dip in 
 melted butter and then roll in bread crumbs, and broil 
 over clear coals until the meat turns a delicate brown 
 color. It will take, about six minutes' cooking. Serve 
 with mushroom, tomato, Bechamel, Hollandaise, or some 
 other sauce. 
 
 Curry of Ox Palates. 
 
 For six or eight persons use three pressed palates, 
 three table-spoonfuls of butter, three of flour, one level 
 table-spoonful of curry-powder, one teaspoonful of salt, 
 one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, one table-spoonful 
 of chopped onion, and two cupfuls of stock. 
 
 Cut the palates into small squares or triangles, and 
 place them in a stew-pan. Put the onion and butter in 
 a frying-pan, and cook until the onion is slightly 
 browned; then add the flour and curry-powder. Stir 
 and cook until the mixture becomes smooth and frothy ; 
 then draw the frying-pan to a cooler part of the range, 
 and gradually add the stock, stirring all the while. 
 
 When all the stock has been added, move the pan 
 forward to the hot part of the range. Add the salt 
 and pepper, and cook for five minutes, stirring fre- 
 quently. Now strain this sauce over the palates, and 
 let them cook for five minutes. At the end of that time 
 add one gill of stock or water, and boil up once. Serve 
 very hot. 
 
 Plain boiled rice should be served with this dish. 
 
 Ox Palates a la Poulette. 
 
 Cut the pressed palates into small squares. Season 
 well with salt and pepper, and cover with stock or milk. 
 Cook for twenty minutes ; then drain them. Arrange in 
 a warm dish, and pour poulette sauce over them. 
 
318 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Ox Palates, with Mushrooms. 
 
 For this dish use one can of mushrooms, two palates, 
 one cupful of stock, three table-spoonfuls of butter, two 
 of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, and one-fourth of a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper. 
 
 Cut the palates in small squares, and put them into a 
 stew-pan with the mushrooms. Put. the butter in a fry- 
 ing-pan, and place this on the fire ; and when it becomes 
 hot, add the flour. Stir until the flour gets brown ; then 
 add the stock and the water from the mushroom can. 
 Cook for five minutes, stirring frequently. After adding 
 the salt and pepper, pour the sauce over the mush- 
 rooms and palates, and cook for five minutes longer. 
 
 Ox palates may be warmed in stock, seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, and served with any kind of sauce. 
 The sauce should have a decided flavor, as the palates 
 have so little. 
 
 Fricandeau of Veal. 
 
 For a fricandeau weighing four pounds use one-fourth 
 of a pound of larding pork, two table-spoonfuls each of 
 minced carrot, turnip, onion, and celery, one table- 
 spoonful of lemon juice, half a teaspoonful of white 
 pepper, three teaspoonfuls of salt, one pint and a half of 
 white stock, one generous table-spoonful of corn-starch, 
 flour for dredging, and one gill of glaze. 
 
 Wet a board and the vegetable-masher in cold water. 
 Place the fricandeau on the board, and skewer the fat 
 around it. Beat it gently with the vegetable-masher 
 until it is only about three inches thick. Beat it a 
 little harder near the edges than in the centre, as there 
 should be a little slope from the centre toward the 
 edges. Now lard the meat on the beaten side. 
 
 Cut the remainder of the pork into thin slices, and 
 arrange them on the bottom of a deep baking-pan. 
 Sprinkle the chopped vegetables on the pork. Now lay 
 
ENTRIES. 319 
 
 the fricandeau, larded side up, on the bed of pork 
 and vegetables, and season well with salt and pepper. 
 Butter a sheet of foolscap generously on both sides. 
 Lay this over the fricaudeau. Place the pan in a mod- 
 erate oven, and cook slowly for half an hour. Watch 
 carefully, to prevent the vegetables from burning. At 
 the end of the 
 half -hour add 
 half a pint of the 
 hot stock, basting 
 the meat with it ; 
 but do not remove 
 the buttered pa- 
 per. Dredge with Fricandeau of Veal, Larded, 
 salt, pepper, and 
 
 flour. Cook for two hours and a half longer, basting 
 every fifteen minutes with the gravy in the pan, and with 
 salt, pepper, and flour. As the gravy cooks away, add 
 more stock. Let the fricandeau cook for the last fifteen 
 minutes without the buttered paper on. Just before 
 taking it from the oven, brush the gill of melted glaze 
 over it. Close the oven door, and let it cook two min- 
 utes longer. On taking it from the oven place on a 
 smooth bed of minced spinach. 
 
 Put on the range the pan in which the fricandeau was 
 cooked. Mix the corn-starch with half a cupful of cold 
 water, and stir into the gravy. Boil for three minutes ; 
 then add the lemon juice, and more salt and pepper, if 
 any be needed. Strain, and serve with the fricandeau. 
 Should there be any fat floating on the gravy, skim it 
 off. 
 
 Success in making this dish depends upon slow cook- 
 ing. If the oven be so hot that the gravy boils in the 
 pan, the piece of meat will be spoiled. 
 
 There should be a pint of gravy when it is finished. 
 Should there be less, add boiling water enough to make 
 a pint. 
 
320 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Veal Cutlets a la Francaise. 
 
 Either half a dozen rib chops or two slices from a leg 
 of veal will be needed. If chops be used, have them 
 
 freed from the 
 backbone and 
 have the ribs cut 
 short ; if slices 
 from the leg be 
 taken, have them 
 half an inch 
 thick, and cut 
 each into four 
 Veal Cutlet before Trimming. pieces. The other 
 
 necessaries a r e 
 
 half a dozen button onions or a table-spoonful of chopped 
 onion, half a can of mushrooms, three table-spoonfuls of 
 strained tomato, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, three 
 table-spoonfuls of salad oil, a table-spoonful of brandy, a 
 scant half-pint of water, a generous teaspoonful of salt, 
 and one-eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
 Season the meat with salt and pepper. Put the oil 
 into a large frying-pan, and when it has become hot, put 
 in the onions, if button 
 onions are to be used. 
 Cook for five minutes, 
 stirring all the while; 
 then put in the cutlets, 
 and cook until brown on 
 both sides. Pour off the 
 oil, and gradually sub- 
 stitute the half-pint of 
 
 water. Put in also the tomato, mushrooms, parsley, and 
 brandy; and after covering the frying-pan closely, let 
 the cutlets simmer for half an hour. Serve very hot. 
 
 If chopped onion be used, put it into the pan with the 
 meat, and not previously, as with button onions. 
 
 Veal Cutlet after Trimming. 
 
ENTREES. 321 
 
 Veal Chops. 
 
 For ten chops there will be required ten rib bones 
 from a piece of mutton, two pounds of veal, cut from the 
 leg, three eggs, one cupful of cracker crumbs, two of 
 stock, five table-spoonfuls of butter, two teaspoonfuls of 
 salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, one-fourth of a tea- 
 spoonful of powdered sage, of summer savory, of sweet 
 marjoram, and of thyme, two table-spoonfuls of cold 
 water, and a heaping table-spoonful of flour. 
 
 Chop the meat very fine, and add to it half of the 
 cracker crumbs, all the herbs, the pepper, about three- 
 fourths of the salt, half a cupful of the stock, two of the 
 eggs, well beaten, and three table-spoonfuls of the butter. 
 Mix all these ingredients thoroughly ; and after dividing 
 the mixture into ten parts, put one of the rib bones with 
 each part, and shape like mutton chops. Beat the third 
 egg well, and add the water to it. After dipping the 
 chops in the egg, roll them gently in the remaining 
 cracker crumbs. Place the breaded chops in a baking- 
 pan, and take the next step in the work. 
 
 Put the remaining two table-spoonfuls of butter into a 
 stew-pan, and when it becomes so hot that it begins to 
 turn brown, add the flour, and stir the mixture until it 
 turns dark brown. Now add the remainder of the stock, 
 stirring all the while. Boil for three minutes, and then 
 add the salt. 
 
 Put the pan of chops into a hot oven, and cook for 
 half an hour. At the end of the first ten minutes baste 
 with the gravy ; and baste every five minutes afterward, 
 four times in all. 
 
 When the chops are done, arrange them on a warm 
 dish. Scrape all the gravy from the pan in which they 
 were baked, and put it with the sauce. Let the sauce 
 boil up once, and pour it around the chops. 
 
 The dish may be much improved by the addition of 
 three table-spoonfuls of mushrooms to the sauce. If 
 
 21 
 
322 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 used, they should be added after the last basting; thus 
 receiving five minutes' cooking. 
 
 * Crumbed Lamb Cutlets. 
 
 Have three slices, about half an inch thick, cut from a 
 leg of lamb. Mix well in a cup two table-spoonfuls of 
 lemon juice, half a teaspoonful of onion juice, half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper, 
 and two table-spoonfuls of salad oil, and rub the mix- 
 ture over the slices of lamb. Cover the dish in which 
 the meat lies, and put it away for an hour or more. 
 When ready to cook the cutlets, spread them lightly 
 with melted butter, and dip them in fine bread crumbs. 
 Cook in a double-broiler over a moderate fire for eight 
 minutes. Serve hot, with asparagus sauce or any deli- 
 cate sauce. They are delectable even without any 
 accompaniment. 
 
 Lamb Chops in Paper Cases. 
 
 Fold and cut thick sheets of white paper so that when 
 opened they will be heart-shaped. Each sheet should 
 be about nine inches long and five and a half wide. Dip 
 
 all in olive-oil or 
 melted butter, being 
 careful that every 
 part is well oiled. 
 Set them aside until 
 the chops are ready. 
 Have the chops 
 Chop in Paper Case. cut from the ribs. 
 
 The rib bone must 
 
 be scraped clean. Season the chops with salt and pepper, 
 and then dip them in melted butter. Now place them 
 on one side of the papers, having the bones turned 
 toward the centre. Fold the papers carefully, turning 
 in the edges. Place in the broiler, and cook over a 
 
ENTRIES. 
 
 323 
 
 moderate fire for eight minutes, if the chops be about 
 three-quarters of an inch thick. Serve on a hot dish in 
 the papers in which they were broiled. 
 
 The secret of broiling in paper is to have every part 
 of the paper well oiled. While cooking, the broiler 
 must be turned constantly. If these directions be 
 followed carefully, the paper will turn only a delicate 
 brown. 
 
 Mutton Cutlets a la Maintenon. 
 
 For six cutlets use the following-named materials : 
 four table-spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, one of 
 chopped onion, one generous table-spoonful of butter, 
 one of flour, three of stock, one teaspoonful of minced 
 parsley, one of salt, one-fifth of a teaspoonfui of pepper, 
 and three gills of Spanish sauce. 
 
 Cook the butter and onion together for five minutes ; 
 then add the mushrooms and seasoning, and cook five 
 minutes longer. Now add the flour, and stir wel} ; then 
 add the stock, and cook three minutes longer. Let this 
 mixture cool. 
 
 Have the cutlets cut from the ribs, and cut one inch and 
 a half thick. Trim the rib bones as for French chops. 
 
 With a sharp knife, split 
 the chops in two without 
 
 Cutlet before Trimming. 
 
 Cutlet after Trimming. 
 
 separating them at the bone. Spread the cooked mixture 
 inside, and then press lightly together again. Broil for 
 eight minutes over clear coals. Arrange on a warm dish, 
 and pour the Spanish sauce around them. Serve very 
 hot. 
 
324 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Breslau of Cold Meat. 
 
 For eight persons use one pint of lean cooked meat, 
 chopped fine, a pint and a half of grated stale bread, a 
 pint of stock or milk, three eggs, a table-spoonful of salt, 
 half a teaspoonful of pepper, three teaspoonfuls of but- 
 ter, one of flour, two of minced onion, and one each of 
 minced carrot and minced parsley. 
 
 Mix the salt, pepper, and parsley with the chopped 
 meat. Put the butter, onion, and carrot into a small 
 stew-pan, and cook slowly for half an hour. Now add 
 the flour, and stir until the mixture is frothy. Gradually 
 add the stock or milk, and stir until it boils. Rub this 
 liquid through a strainer and on the bread. Let this 
 stand until cold; then add the meat and well-beaten 
 eggs to the soaked bread. 
 
 Butter eight small dariole moulds ; or custard cups will 
 do if the moulds are not at hand. Put the mixture into 
 them. Now place the moulds in a pan of warm water, 
 having the water come within half an inch of the top 
 of the moulds. Cover with buttered paper, and cook 
 in a moderate oven for half an hour. At serving-time 
 turn out on a warm dish, and pour a good sauce around 
 them. The sauce should be white or yellow for light 
 meats, and brown for dark meats. 
 
 This dish is suitable for luncheon, dinner, or supper. 
 
 Braised Tongue a la Jardiniere. 
 
 After washing a fresh beef tongue, run through the 
 roots and end of it a trussing-needle threaded with strong 
 twine, and draw tightly enough to make the ends of the 
 tongue meet. Tie the twine firmly. Cover the meat 
 with boiling water, and boil gently for two hours ; then 
 remove it from the kettle and skin it. 
 
 Put six table-spoonfuls of butter into the braisiug-pan, 
 and when it has become hot, put in half a small carrot, 
 
ENTRIES. 825 
 
 half a small turnip, and an onion, all cut fine. Cook for 
 five minutes, stirring all the while; then remove the 
 vegetables. 
 
 Koll the tongue in dry flour, and put it into the brais- 
 ing-pan with the butter in which the vegetables were 
 fried. Brown one side ; then turn the tongue and brown 
 the other side. Add the cooked vegetables and a quart 
 of the water in which the meat was boiled. Cover the 
 pan, and cook slowly in the oven for two hours, basting 
 every fifteen minutes. 
 
 Mix a table-spoonful of corn-starch with half a cupful 
 of cold water, and stir into the gravy in the braising-pan. 
 There should be a pint and a half of this gravy ; and if 
 there be less, add some of the water in which the tongue 
 was boiled. Season with salt, pepper, and the juice of 
 half a lemon, and cook fifteen minutes longer. Take up 
 the tongue, and cut and remove the string with which 
 it was fastened. Strain the gravy over the meat, and 
 put groups of stewed carrots, stewed turnips, French 
 peas, and potato balls around it. Serve immediately, 
 with extra dishes of the vegetables named. 
 
 This work may seem very complex ; yet it is not diffi- 
 cult, and the dish is so tempting and palatable that it 
 repays one for taking a good deal of trouble. 
 
 * Brown Fricassee of Sheep's Tongues. 
 
 The day before the fricassee is to be served, wash the 
 tongues carefully, and, putting them into a stew-pan con- 
 taining boiling water enough to cover them, simmer 
 them for two hours. At the end of that time set them 
 away to cool ; and when they are cool, take them from 
 the water, rid them of their roots, and cut them in two 
 lengthwise. Put them in a cool place until morning. 
 
 If provision is to be made for six persons, use half a 
 dozen tongues. In the morning season them with salt and 
 pepper. Put upon a plate two generous table-spoonfuls 
 
326 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 of flour, and roll the tongues in it. Put three table-spoon- 
 fuls of butter into a frying-pan, and when it gets hot, 
 put in the tongues and a teaspoonful of chopped onion. 
 Cook until the meat gets browned on all sides. Add 
 what flour remains on the plate, and stir until the Horn- 
 is smooth ; then slowly add a pint of stock, stirring all 
 the while. Season with salt and pepper; then add a 
 teaspoonful of lemon juice, and send the dish to the 
 table. This fricassee is nice for luncheon, especially if 
 a dish of boiled rice accompany it. Tongues cost only a 
 few cents apiece. 
 
 * Braised Lambs' Tongues. 
 
 Put six lambs' tongues into a stew-pan, and, after 
 covering with boiling water, simmer gently for two hours. 
 Take them up at the end of that time, and, throwing 
 them into cold water, skin them. Put three table-spoon- 
 fuls of butter into a frying-pan, and when it gets hot, 
 add two table-spoonfuls of flour. Stir the mixture until 
 ~A, becomes dark brown ; then add a pint and a half of 
 the water in which the meat was boiled. Boil up once, 
 and season with salt and pepper and a table-spoonful 
 of lemon juice. Put the tongues into a deep pan, and 
 pour the sauce over them. Add a bay leaf, a clove, a 
 stalk of celery, half a small onion, and a sprig of pars- 
 ley. Cover the pan, and put it into a very moderate 
 oven. Cook slowly for one hour. At serving-time 
 arrange the tongues at the base of a casserole of pota- 
 toes. Strain the sauce and pour it over them, and serve 
 
 immediately. 
 J 
 
 Breaded Calves' Brains. 
 
 Let the brains of two calves stand in cold water for 
 half an hour; then remove the thin membrane that 
 covers them, and see that they are perfectly white and 
 free of blood-filled veins. Divide each calf's brains into 
 
ENTRIES. 327 
 
 six parts, thus obtaining twelve parts in all, and tie up 
 each part in a small piece of thin muslin. Drop all into 
 a pan of boiling water, just enough to cover them, 
 and boil gently for half an hour. At the end of that 
 time take them up; and after changing the hot water 
 for cold water, put them back into the pan. When they 
 have been cooled, remove them from the muslin, and 
 season well with salt and pepper. Beat an egg, and 
 season it with salt and pepper. Dip the brains into it, 
 and roll them in fine bread crumbs. When all have been 
 breaded, put them into the fry ing-basket, and set them 
 into a kettle of boiling fat. Cook for two minutes, and 
 serve with either ravigote or cream sauce. 
 
 Escaloped Calves' Brains. 
 
 Two sets of brains will be required, besides a pint of 
 grated bread crumbs, half a pint of milk, an egg, a 
 table-spoonful of butter, half a teaspoonful of flour, half 
 a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful of 
 onion juice, one teaspoonful of salt, a grain of pepper, 
 and a table-spoonful of vinegar. 
 
 After soaking the brains in warm water for two hours, 
 free them from the skin and large fibres, and wash them 
 in cold water. Tie them loosely in a piece of thin 
 muslin, and, putting them into a saucepan, pour in 
 enough boiling water to cover them. Add the spoonful 
 of vinegar, and then boil gently for half an hour. At 
 the end of that time take them from the boiling water, 
 and plunge into cold water; and when they get cold, 
 drain them, and cut them into small pieces. 
 
 Put the butter into a small frying-pan, and when it 
 gets hot, and before it turns brown, add the flour. Stir 
 until smooth and frothy ; then gradually add the milk. 
 When this mixture boils up, add the chopped parsley, 
 onion juice, and half the pepper and salt. Sprinkle the 
 remainder of the seasoning on the brains. Beat the egg 
 
328 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 till light, and mix it with the brains. Put a thin layer 
 of crumbs on the bottom of an escalop dish, then spread 
 a layer of brains (using half the entire quantity), next 
 add half the sauce, and finally add a thin layer of crumbs. 
 Now put in second layers of brains and sauce, and finish 
 by using the remainder of the crumbs. Bake in a moder- 
 ate oven for twenty minutes. It makes the dish richer, 
 but less delicate, to cut a generous table-spoonful of but- 
 ter into bits, and strew these upon the top layer of 
 crumbs. 
 
 Sweetbreads with Brown Sauce. 
 
 For two pairs of sweetbreads the following-named 
 materials will be required : one pint of clear brown 
 stock, two level table-spoonfuls of corn-starch, three 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, a clove, salt and pepper for 
 seasoning, and a piece of carrot, of onion, and of celery, 
 each about an inch square (bear in mind that these are 
 not expected to be cubes, but simply pieces about an 
 inch square). 
 
 Clean the sweetbreads, and soak them in a pan of 
 water for an hour or more ; then put them in a stew-pan, 
 with boiling water enough to cover, and cook for twenty 
 minutes. At the end of that time take them up, and 
 put them in cold water for two minutes. On removing 
 them from the cold water, rub a table-spoonful of butter 
 over them, and dredge with salt and pepper. Cook in a 
 hot oven for twenty minutes, basting with brown sauce 
 every five minutes. 
 
 Brown Sauce. To make the sauce, put into a stew-pan 
 the stock, vegetables, and clove already mentioned, and 
 heat the mixture to the boiling-point. Mix the corn- 
 starch with five table-spoonfuls of water, and stir into 
 the mixture in the stew-pan. Cook for a quarter of an 
 hour ; then add two table-spoonfuls of butter, one tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and one-eighth of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper. Simmer for five minutes longer, and strain. 
 
ENTRIES. 829 
 
 Use about a gill and a half of this sauce in basting 
 the sweetbreads, and when the dish is served, pour the 
 remaining sauce around the meat. 
 
 If the stock was seasoned with vegetables and spice 
 before it was used for the sauce, these seasonings may 
 be omitted in making the sauce. 
 
 Braised Sweetbreads. 
 
 After cleaning the sweetbreads, drop them into a sauce- 
 pan containing boiling water enough to cover them, and 
 boil for ten minutes. Take them from the water, lay 
 them in a shallow dish, and season with salt and pepper. 
 Make a sauce as follows, the quantities being sufficient 
 for half a dozen sweetbreads : 
 
 Dissolve a teaspoonful of beef extract in a cupful of 
 warm water. Put a table-spoonful and a half of butter 
 into a small frying-pan with one teaspoonful of chopped 
 onion, a bit of parsley, half a teaspoonful of chopped 
 carrot, and a bay leaf. Cook slowly for five minutes ; 
 then add one heaping teaspoonful of flour, and stir until 
 brown. Draw the frying-pan back to a cooler part of 
 the stove, and gradually add the dissolved beef extract. 
 Season with salt and pepper, and simmer for three 
 minutes. 
 
 Strain this sauce over the sweetbreads, and cook them 
 slowly in the oven for an hour, basting frequently with 
 the sauce in the pan. At serving-time place the sweet- 
 breads on a warm platter, and pour a clear brown sauce 
 around them. 
 
 Spindled Sweetbreads. 
 
 Clean two heart sweetbreads, and cover them with 
 boiling water. Add a table-spoonful of lemon juice, a 
 teaspoonful of salt, a slice of onion, ten pepper-corns, 
 and a piece of stick cinnamon about an inch long. Place 
 on the fire, and cook for twenty minutes. At the end of 
 
330 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 that time take the sweetbreads from the hot water, and 
 drop them into a bowl of cold water. When they become 
 cold, wipe them dry, and cut into pieces about an inch 
 and a half square and half an inch thick. 
 
 Cut fat bacon in slices as thin as a wafer, and divide 
 these slices into squares. Season the sweetbreads with 
 salt and pepper ; then roll them in melted butter, and 
 
 also roll lightly in flour. 
 String the bacon and sweet- 
 breads on small skewers, 
 
 Sptadled Sweetbreads. alternating with squares of 
 
 each kind of meat. Rest the 
 
 ends of the skewers on a narrow cake-pan, and place in 
 a hot oven for eight minutes. Serve each skewerful on 
 a slice of toast. 
 
 Another way is to let the butter and flour cool on the 
 squares of sweetbread ; then dip the meat in beaten egg, 
 and roll in fine crumbs. String them as before, and 
 after laying them in the frying-basket, cook in fat for 
 a minute and a half. Serve on toast, as before. 
 
 Turkey, chicken, and goose livers are very nice cooked 
 in this manner. They should not be boiled first. 
 
 Fried Chicken and Cauliflower. 
 
 Use two chickens, each weighing about three pounds, 
 one large head of cauliflower, one pint of milk, half a 
 pint of cream, one quarter of a pound of clear salt pork, 
 and some flour, salt, and pepper. 
 
 Singe, wipe, and draw the chickens ; then cut them in 
 handsome joints, season them generously with salt and 
 pepper, and roll them in flour. Cut the pork in thin 
 slices, and fry it slowly in a large frying-pan. On tak- 
 ing up the pork, lay the pieces of chicken in the pan, and 
 fry them slowly for half an hour, being careful to avoid 
 burning. Turn the pieces when they begin to brown on 
 one side. 
 
ENTREES. 331 
 
 The head of cauliflower should stand in salted cold 
 water for an hour before the time for beginning to cook 
 this dish. Just before putting the chicken on to fry, 
 put the cauliflower in a kettle with two quarts of boiling 
 water, and simmer gently for half an hour. When the 
 cauliflower has been cooking for twenty minutes, add a 
 generous table-spoonful of salt. 
 
 As soon as the chicken is put on to fry, put the pint 
 of milk on the fire in a double-boiler. Mix the cream 
 with two table-spoonfuls of flour, and when the milk 
 begins to boil, stir this mixture into it. Cook for ten 
 minutes, stirring occasionally ; then add a heaping tea- 
 spoonful of salt and one-fourth of a teaspoonful of white 
 pepper. 
 
 When the cauliflower is done, take it up and drain it ; 
 then place in the centre of a large dish. Pour half of 
 the white sauce over it. Now arrange the chicken at the 
 base of the cauliflower. Pour all the fat from the pan, 
 and put the remaining white sauce into the pan. Put 
 on the stove, and stir well from the bottom ; and when 
 the sauce boils up, pour it over the chicken. Serve at 
 once. 
 
 Cooking the chicken sauce in the pan where the 
 chicken was fried gives it more flavor, but also colors it ; 
 therefore it would not do to cook the sauce for the cauli- 
 flower in that pan. 
 
 * Chicken Stew with Dumplings. 
 
 The ingredients are: two young fowls, weighing about 
 eight pounds, two quarts and a pint of boiling water, 
 four table-spoonfuls of butter, six of flour, one large 
 onion, six thin slices of carrot, six of turnip, salt and 
 pepper for seasoning. 
 
 After cleaning the fowls and cutting them into pieces 
 suitable for serving, wash these and put them into a 
 large stew-pan. Add the water, and set the dish on to 
 
332 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 boil. Cut the vegetables very fine, and put them, with 
 the butter, into a small frying-pan. Cook slowly for ten 
 minutes, being careful that they do not burn. When 
 they have acquired a light straw-color, draw them to the 
 side of the pan, and press out all the butter with a spoon, 
 and then put them into the stew-pan with the chicken. 
 Into the butter remaining in the pan stir the dry flour, 
 and cook until the mixture is smooth and frothy ; then 
 stir it into the stew, and add salt and pepper. Let the 
 dish simmer gently for about two hours, after which 
 draw it forward where it will boil rapidly, and put in 
 some dumplings. These should be made as follows 
 while the stew is simmering: 
 
 Mix thoroughly in, and rub through, a sieve, a pint of 
 flour, a teaspoonful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
 and two level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Make a 
 soft dough of this mixture by stirring into it a small 
 cupful of milk, and then stir the dough into a smooth 
 ball. Put it on a board sprinkled lightly with flour, and 
 after rolling down to the thickness of about half an inch, 
 cut into small round cakes. 
 
 Stir the stew, and put in the dumplings. Cover tightly, 
 and cook exactly ten minutes from the time the cover is 
 placed over the pan. When the allotted time has passed, 
 take up the dumplings immediately. Arrange the chicken 
 and gravy in the centre of a large platter, and garnish 
 with a circle of dumplings. Sprigs of parsley also may 
 be used if you have any on hand. 
 
 * Stewed Chicken. 
 
 Use a fowl about a year old and weighing about five 
 pounds. After singeing it and wiping it, cut it into 
 handsome joints. Wash carefully, and dredge well with 
 salt, pepper, and flour. Cut into bits a piece of chicken 
 fat about the size of an egg, and cook it in a frying-pan 
 until there are about four table-spoonfuls of liquid fat ; 
 
ENTRIES. 333 
 
 then remove any remaining solid particles from the 
 frying-pan, and put in the pieces of chicken. Cook until 
 they are brown on both sides, and then put them into a 
 stew-pan. 
 
 When all the meat has been browned, cut an onion 
 fine, and cook it slowly for five minutes in the fat re- 
 maining in the frying-pan. Add three table-spoonfuls of 
 flour, and stir until brown; then add three pints of 
 water, and stir until it boils. Next add half a cupful 
 of stewed tomato, and enough salt and pepper to season 
 highly. Strain this liquor over the chicken. 
 
 Put the heart, liver, and gizzard into the stew-pan, and 
 after putting on the cover, set the stew-pan in a hot 
 place on the stove. When the stew begins to boil, skim 
 it, and set the stew-pan back where its contents will 
 simply simmer for two hours. The dish should never 
 be allowed to boil hard. 
 
 * Chicken Stew with Norfolk Dumplings. 
 
 For six persons use a pair of fowls weighing seven or 
 eight pounds. Singe and draw them; then cut them 
 into handsome joints. Dredge generously with salt and 
 pepper, and then roll in flour. Spread in a dripping-pan, 
 and then put in a hot oven for half an hour. 
 
 Put three pints of boiling water into a large stew-pan. 
 Mix five table-spoonfuls of flour with one cupful of cold 
 water, and stir into the boiling water. Now add half a 
 teaspoonful of pepper and one table-spoonful of salt. 
 Let the liquid simmer until the chicken is taken from 
 the oven ; and when the chicken is taken out, turn it into 
 the stew-pan containing this gravy. Cover, and simmer 
 gently for two hours and a half. At the end of that 
 time taste the dish, to see if it needs any more salt and 
 pepper. Add, at any rate, one teaspoonful of minced 
 parsley. Stir the stew well, and after adding the dump- 
 lings, cook for eight minutes. Serve the chicken, 
 dumplings, and gravy together on a large meat-dish. 
 
884 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Norfolk Dumplings. Use one pint of flour, one gill 
 of milk, two eggs, one table-spoonful of melted butter, 
 one teaspoonful of salt, and one of baking-powder. 
 
 Mix the salt and baking-powder with the flour, and 
 rub all through a sieve. Beat the eggs yolks and 
 whites separately until very light, and add the milk 
 to them. Pour the mixture upon the flour. Add the 
 butter, and beat well. Drop the batter into the chicken 
 stew by table-spoonfuls. Cover the pot closely, and 
 cook for eight minutes. 
 
 These dumplings will not be light and spongy, like 
 those made with soda and cream-of-tartar, but will be 
 tender and savory. 
 
 Chicken Pie. 
 
 For a dish holding three quarts use two chickens 
 weighing about eight pounds, half the quantity of paste 
 given in the rule for chopped puff paste, three pints of 
 chicken stock, four table-spoonfuls of butter, four of 
 flour, two slices of carrot, half a large onion, a bay leaf, 
 a sprig of parsley, a bit of mace, and salt and pepper to 
 suit the taste, perhaps half a teaspoonful of pepper 
 and three teaspoonfuls of salt. 
 
 After cleaning and halving the chickens, put them 
 into a kettle, cover them with boiling water, and place 
 them where they will simmer until tender. If they be 
 a year old they will need to be cooked for an hour and a 
 half. Let them cool in the water; then free them o: p 
 skin, and cut into pieces suitable for serving. Put 
 these pieces into the pie-dish, sprinkling each layer 
 with salt and pepper, about half the pepper and two 
 teaspoonfuls of salt being used. 
 
 Now put the butter into a saucepan, and beat it until 
 soft. Add the flour, and beat until the mixture is light 
 and creamy. Next add the vegetables, spice, and herbs, 
 besides three pints of the water in which the chickens 
 were boiled. Heat slowly to the boiling-point, and set 
 
ENTRIES. 335 
 
 back where the mixture will simmer for fifteen minutes. 
 Add the remaining pepper, and a teaspoonful of salt; 
 then strain the sauce over the meat. Eoll out the paste, 
 having it a little larger than the top of the dish. Cut it 
 with a knife in the centre, that steam may escape, and 
 place it over the chicken, turning the edge into the dish. 
 Bake in a moderate oven for an hour and a quarter, and 
 serve hot. 
 
 It gives the pie a rather more festive appearance if 
 the paste trimmings be rolled thin, cut in ornamental 
 shapes, and disposed on the cover of the pie before 
 baking. 
 
 Chicken Pie to be Served Cold. . 
 
 Use two chickens weighing together eight or nine 
 pounds, two table-spoonfuls of salt, one teaspoonful of 
 pepper, two bay leaves, two cloves, one slice of onion, 
 two blades of celery, two quarts of water, one-fourth of 
 a package of gelatine, six hard-boiled eggs, half a cupful 
 of butter, and half a cupful of flour ; and for the paste, 
 follow the rule for chopped puff paste. 
 
 Draw, singe, and wash the chickens ; then cut them 
 into small joints, taking out the backbones and putting 
 them aside. Eemove the bones from the breasts ; also 
 the drumsticks. Put these with the backbones. 
 
 Season the pieces of chicken with :aif the salt and 
 pepper. Melt the butter in a deep plate. Eoll the 
 chicken in this, and then in the flour. As fast as the 
 chicken is coated with the butter and flour, lay it in a 
 dripping-pan. Put the pan into a hot oven, and cook for 
 fifteen minutes ; then take the meat from the pa/n, and 
 lay it in a dish to cool. 
 
 Now put the pan on top of the stove, and if there be 
 any of the flour and butter left in the plates, scrape it 
 into the pan. Add one cupful of cold water; and 
 after stirring the mixture, cook it for five minutes, stir- 
 ring all the while, Add half a teaspoonful of salt 
 
336 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 and one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper. Turn into 
 a bowl, and cool. 
 
 Cut the liver into small pieces. Slice the hard-boiled 
 eggs, and mix with the liver. 
 
 Butter the sides of an earthenware pie-dish that will 
 hold about three quarts. Roll a piece of paste into a 
 strip long and broad enough to line the sides of the dish. 
 Put this in position, and then put a layer of chicken in 
 the bottom of the dish. On this put a layer of the 
 sliced eggs. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Continue 
 putting in alternate layers of chicken and egg until all 
 the materials have been used. Over this filling pour 
 the gravy that was made in the dripping-pan. Eoll out 
 a cove,r of the chopped puff paste. Make a small hole in 
 the centre of the cover, and then place the paste over 
 the dish. Press together the edges of the top and side 
 crusts. Place the pie in a moderate oven, and bake for 
 one hour and a half. At the end of that time, on taking 
 it from the oven, place a tunnel in the opening of the 
 crust, and pour in some stock, made with the chicken 
 oones and other ingredients. Eeturn the pie to the 
 oven, and cook for half an hour longer. At the end of 
 that time take it from the oven and set it away to cool. 
 
 The seasoning may be varied to suit one's taste. In- 
 stead of the hard-boiled eggs, two pounds of sausage 
 meat may "be used. In this case the pie will require an 
 extra hour's baking. 
 
 Cold chicken pie is suitable for luncheons, picnics, or 
 suppers. 
 
 To Make the Stock. Put the neck and bones of the 
 chicken into a stew-pan with three pints of water. Add 
 the onion, spice, and herbs. Pour boiling water on the 
 chicken feet. Let them stand for a few minutes ; then 
 take them out, and rub off the skin. Wash them, and 
 put them into the stew-pan with the other ingredients. 
 Place the stew-pan on the fire, and cook its contents for 
 an hour and a half, boiling rather fast. Skim off the 
 
ENTRIES. 337 
 
 fat. Add the salt and pepper and the gelatine, which 
 should previously have been soaked in half a pint of 
 cold water for an hour and a half. Strain this stock 
 before pouring it into the pie. 
 
 * Chicken-and-Rice Pie. 
 
 There will be required for this dish one fowl weighing 
 about five pounds, one cupful and a half of rice, half a 
 cupful of butter, two eggs, half a pint of milk, one slice 
 of onion, one of carrot, two cloves, and some salt and 
 pepper. 
 
 Clean the fowl, and cut it into joints ; then put it into 
 a stew-pan with three pints of boiling water and the 
 vegetables and spice. Simmer until tender. Unless the 
 fowl be old, the meat should become tender in an hour 
 and a half ; but it may require three hours' cooking. 
 
 When the chicken is cooked, add half a teaspoonf ul 
 of pepper and three teaspoonfuls of salt, and set aside 
 until the time for putting with the rice. Wash the rice, 
 and put it on to cook in three quarts of boiling water. 
 When it has been cooking for ten minutes, add two level 
 table-spoonfuls of salt. Cook ten minutes longer, and 
 then turn into a colander and drain well. After drain- 
 ing, add to it the butter, milk, one teaspoonful of salt, 
 and the eggs, well beaten. 
 
 Put into an earthen baking-dish a layer of the chicken, 
 and then a thin layer of the rice mixture ; another layer 
 of chicken, and finally the remainder of the rice. Pour 
 over the rice one pint of the water in which the chicken 
 was cooked. Place in a moderately hot oven, and bake 
 for half an hour. Serve the pie in the dish in which 
 it is cooked. 
 
 * Walled Chicken. 
 
 This dish is made of one large fowl or two rather 
 small ones, eight potatoes of medium size, two eggs, four 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, half a cupful of hot milk, three 
 
338 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 cupf uls of chicken stock, the water in which the fowl 
 was boiled, one table-spoonful of chopped onion, one 
 sprig of parsley, one slice of carrot, a bay leaf, two gen- 
 erous table-spoonfuls of flour, and salt and pepper to suit 
 the taste. 
 
 It is best to boil the fowl the day before it is to be 
 used. After cleaning it, put it in a stew-pan, breast 
 side down, and cover with boiling water. When the 
 water begins to boil, skim it, and set the kettle back 
 where the chicken will simply simmer until tender, 
 from two hours and a half to three hours ; then put the 
 fowl away to cool in the water in which it was boiled. 
 When it gets cold, free it of skin and bones, and cut it 
 into pieces of a size suitable for serving. Season with 
 salt and pepper. 
 
 Pare the potatoes, and, fifty minutes before serving- 
 time, put them into a stew-pan with enough boiling 
 water to cover them. When they have been cooking for 
 fifteen minutes, the chicken should be prepared in the 
 following manner : Put the three table-spoonfuls of but- 
 ter into a frying-pan with the vegetables and herbs, and 
 cook slowly for five minutes; then add the flour, and 
 stir until smooth and frothy, but not long enough to 
 permit it to get browned. Gradually add the cold 
 chicken stock, stirring all the while. When the liquid 
 boils up, add one-eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper and 
 a teaspoonful of salt, and simmer for five minutes. Put 
 the seasoned chicken into a stew-pan, and strain this 
 sauce over it. Cover, and simmer for ten minutes ; then 
 set back where it will keep hot until serving-time. 
 
 When the potatoes have been cooked for half an hour, 
 pour off all the water. Put the milk on the stove in a 
 small basin. Mash the potatoes until smooth and light ; 
 then add the milk, one table-spoonful of the butter, and 
 a teaspoonful and a half of salt. Beat the whites of the 
 eggs to a froth, and stir this into the mixture. Heat a 
 stone-china platter to a high temperature, and arrange 
 
ENTRIES. 339 
 
 the mashed potato as a border around the centre of the 
 dish. Beat together the yolks of the eggs and two 
 table-spoonfuls of water, and spread the mixture over the 
 potato. Put into the oven for ten minutes, and at the 
 end of that time pour the chicken into the centre of 
 the border, and garnish with bits of parsley. 
 
 Any kind of cold meat, poultry, game, or fish may be 
 served in this manner. 
 
 * Blanquette of Chicken and Macaroni. 
 
 For this dish use cold boiled fowl left from a dinner. 
 Free the meat of skin, bone, and fat, and after cutting it 
 into small strips, season it well with salt and pepper, and 
 put aside for a while. There should be about a quart of 
 meat. Break a quarter of a pound of macaroni into 
 pieces about three inches long, and cover with two quarts 
 of boiling water. Boil rapidly, but with the saucepan 
 uncovered, for twenty minutes ; then pour off the water, 
 and add the chicken and one quart of the water in which 
 the fowl was boiled. 
 
 Mix two table-spoonfuls of flour with half a cupful of 
 cold milk, and when the mixture in the saucepan begins 
 to boil, stir the new mixture into it. Season with one 
 teaspoonful of onion juice, one teaspoonful of mushroom 
 ketchup, and some salt and pepper. Cook for five min- 
 utes ; then add two table-spoonfuls of butter, and cook 
 three minutes longer. Add one teaspoonful of lemon 
 juice. Serve very hot. 
 
 * Brown Fricassee of Chicken. 
 
 After singeing, drawing, and washing two large chick- 
 ens, cut them into handsome joints. Season with salt 
 and pepper, and roll the pieces in flour. Cut half a 
 pound of fat salt pork into thin slices, and fry slowly, 
 so as to extract all the fat. Remove the pork, and lay in 
 the boiling fat enough chicken to cover the bottom of the 
 
340 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 pan. Brown on one side, and turn and brown on the 
 other. 
 
 When all the meat has been fried, put three table- 
 spoonfuls of flour into the fat remaining in the pan, and 
 stir until brown ; then gradually add a quart of cold 
 water. When the water boils, season with salt and 
 pepper. Add the fried chicken, and after covering 
 closely, simmer for half an hour. 
 
 * White Fricassee of Chicken. 
 
 Free a cooked fowl of skin, bones, and fat, and cut it 
 into small pieces. Season with salt and pepper. Put 
 three table-spoonfuls of butter into the frying-pan, and 
 when it has become hot, add two table-spoonfuls of flour. 
 Stir until smooth and frothy ; then gradually add a pint 
 of the water in which the fowl was boiled, and season 
 with salt and pepper. When this gravy boils up, add 
 the cut meat, and simmer for ten minutes; then add 
 half a cupful of cream or milk, and allow the fricassee 
 to boil up once. Serve on a hot dish, with a garnish of 
 toast. 
 
 Terrapin Chicken. 
 
 For this dish use one quart of cold cooked chicken, 
 cut in very small pieces, the cooked liver of one or two 
 chickens, three hard-boiled eggs, the yolks of two un- 
 cooked eggs, one cupful of chicken stock, one cupful of 
 cream, a slight grating of nutmeg, one-third of a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, one level table-spoonful of salt, four 
 table-spoonfuls of sherry, three table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 two of flour, and one teaspoonf ul of lemon juice. 
 
 Chop the chicken liver and hard-boiled eggs rather 
 coarse. Add the chopped mixture to the chicken, and 
 sprinkle the salt, pepper, and nutmeg over all these in- 
 gredients. Now put the butter in a frying-pan, and set 
 the pan ou the stove. Add the flour to the melted 
 butter, and Stir the mixture until it becomes smooth and 
 
ENTRIES. 341 
 
 frothy ; then draw the pan back to some place where 
 there is less heat, and gradually add the stock. Put it 
 again on the hot part of the stove, and stir the contents 
 for three minutes ; then add the cream, after reserving 
 four table-spoonfuls. Stir for one minute, and then put 
 the chicken mixture into the pan, and simmer for ten 
 minutes. 
 
 During this period beat well the yolks of the uncooked 
 eggs, and put the cold cream with them. Taste the 
 chicken mixture, as it may require a little more salt. 
 Pour the beaten yolks and the cream into the frying-pan, 
 and stir for one minute. On removing the pan from the 
 fire at the end of that time, add the sherry and lemon 
 juice, and serve at once. 
 
 Chicken a la Duxelles. 
 
 There will be needed for eight persons, two chickens, 
 each weighing from three and a half to four pounds, one 
 pint and a half of chicken stock, four table-spoonfuls of 
 butter, three level table-spoonfuls of flour, three table- 
 spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, one teaspoonful of 
 chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of onion juice, one 
 table-spoonful of lemon juice, two table-spoonfuls of salt, 
 one teaspoonful of pepper, and a pint of bread crumbs. 
 
 Cut the chicken into handsome pieces, as for frying. 
 Sprinkle half the salt and half the pepper over the meat ; 
 then put it away in a cool place until the sauce is ready. 
 
 Beat the flour and butter together in a stew-pan until ** 
 smooth and light. Hoat the stock, and gradually add it 
 to the mixture. Set 'the pan on the fire, and add to the 
 sauce all the other ingredients except the lemon juice 
 and crumbs. Cook ge^ly for ten minutes ; then remove 
 the pan from the fire, and add the lemon juice to the 
 sauce. Cover the pieces of chicken with this sauce, and 
 let them stand until the sauce is cool ; then roll them in 
 the crumbs. Butter lightly the bottom of a flat pan, arid 
 
342 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 lay the meat in the pan, being careful that the pieces do 
 not touch each other. Place in a hot oven, and cook for 
 twenty minutes. Serve with Bechamel or mushroom 
 white sauce. 
 
 The chicken may be cut up and covered with the 
 sauce and bread crumbs several hours before it is cooked. 
 This dish is particularly good for a part of a dinner or 
 luncheon for company. 
 
 Jellied Chicken. 
 
 If a three-pint mould is to be filled one must use a 
 chicken or fowl weighing about two and a half or three 
 pounds after being drawn, one-third of a box of gelatine, 
 a slice of onion, a slice of carrot, a bay leaf, a clove, 
 some hot and cold water, and salt and pepper in quanti- 
 ties to be determined by one's own taste. 
 
 Wash the fowl, and put it into a deep stew-pan with 
 boiling water enough to cover it. Heat the water until 
 it boils again ; then ski in carefully, and set the pan 
 where the water will only bubble until the meat becomes 
 tender. It is impossible to state just the length of time 
 required for the cooking, because so much depends upon 
 the age of the fowl ; it may be an hour and a half or it 
 may be three hours. When the fowl gets tender, remove 
 it from the water, and put it away to cool ; also set the 
 water away. It may take several hours for both to 
 become cold. 
 
 Meanwhile soak the gelatine in a gill of cold water for 
 two hours. When the chicken liquor has become cool 
 and has been skimmed, put a pint and a half into a 
 saucepan with the clove, bay leaf, carrot, and onion, and 
 simmer for ten minutes ; then add a grain of cayenne, a 
 level teaspoonful of salt, and the soaked gelatine. After 
 straining this liquor through a napkin, pour a thin layer 
 into a mould, and set away to harden. 
 
 Free the cold fowl of skin, fat, and bones, and cut it 
 into thin strips. Season well with salt and pepper, and 
 
ENTREES. 343 
 
 lay it lightly in the mould when the jelly becomes hard. 
 Pour the liquid jelly over the meat, and again set the 
 mould away. At serving-time dip it into warm water, 
 and turn out on a flat dish. 
 
 Jellied chicken may be made of the remains of cold 
 roast chicken or turkey, or boiled fowl or turkey. When 
 there is no stock on hand, the bones of the cold chicken 
 should be covered with water, and simmered for several 
 hours to obtain a supply. 
 
 * Chicken a la Marengo. 
 
 Singe and cut up two chickens. Put a quarter of a 
 pound of sliced fat salt pork into a frying-pan, and fry 
 until crisp and brown ; then remove it, and put in the 
 pieces of chicken, first rolling them in flour. Fry brown 
 on all sides ; then transfer to a deep stew-pan. 
 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of chopped onion into the 
 frying-pan, and when it has become browned, add two 
 table-spoonfuls of butter and four heaping table-spoon- 
 fuls of -flour. When the sauce gets brown, add a quart 
 of chicken stock or any other good stock, and simmer for 
 five minutes. Season with salt and pepper ; and after 
 adding a cupful of strained tomato, and satisfying your- 
 self that there is seasoning enough, strain the sauce 
 upon the chicken. Cover, and simmer for twenty min- 
 utes ; then add a can of mushrooms, and cook ten min- 
 utes longer. 
 
 This dish must be highly seasoned, and at least an 
 eighth of a teaspoonful of cayenne should be used. 
 
 Here is another receipt : Use two chickens, each weigh- 
 ing between three and four pounds, one can of mush- 
 rooms, half a cupful of clarified butter, six eggs, one 
 dozen stoned olives, eight small triangles of toast, a 
 pint and a half of clear beef stock, one gill of stewed 
 and strained tomato, three table-spoonfuls of flour, three 
 
344 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 teaspoonfuls of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, one 
 bay leaf, one sprig of parsley, two table-spoonfuls each 
 of minced onion, carrot, and celery, and two cloves. 
 
 Put two level table-spoonfuls of butter and the minced 
 vegetables into a small stew-pan. Place on the fire, and 
 cook slowly for ten minutes; then draw forward, and 
 stir until the vegetables are slightly browned. Add half 
 the flour, and stir until it is brown. Draw back to a 
 cooler place, and gradually add half the stock. Stir 
 until it boils up ; then add the herbs and cloves. Set 
 the pan back where its contents will cook slowly for forty 
 minutes. 
 
 Have the chickens drawn, singed, wiped, and then cut 
 in joints, as for a stew. Season with half the pepper 
 and two teaspoonfuls of the salt. 
 
 Put the remainder of the butter on the fire in a large 
 frying-pan, and when it becomes hot, put in the chicken. 
 Fry slowly for twenty -five minutes ; then take up. Now 
 pour about two table-spoonfuls of the fat remaining in 
 the pan into a small frying-pan, and set aside. Put the 
 remaining half of the flour in the pan from which the 
 chicken was taken, and stir until a smooth and frothy 
 mixture is formed. Draw the pan back, and add the 
 rest of the stock. Cook for three minutes, and then add 
 to the sauce in the stew-pan. 
 
 Put the chicken, olives, mushrooms, and strained to- 
 mato into a large stew-pan. Strain the sauce upon 
 them, and place on the fire. Simmer gently for fifteen 
 minutes. 
 
 While the chicken is cooking in the sauce, fry the 
 eggs in the butter that was poured into the small frying- 
 pan. They are not to be fried in the ordinary shape. 
 Break the eggs, one at a time, into a small cup. Let the 
 butter get hot in the pan. Now, with the left hand, tip 
 the pan forward so that all the butter shall flow to one 
 spot. Drop the egg into it ; and as soon as it hardens 
 a little on one side, turn it, and cook on the other side. 
 
ENTRIES. 345 
 
 This should give an oblong shape. Take up the egg as 
 soon as it is slightly browned. Cook all in the same 
 manner. 
 
 Take up the chicken, and arrange it in a pyramid on 
 a large dish. Garnish with the olives and mushrooms. 
 Arrange the toast and fried eggs at the base. Pour the 
 sauce over all, and serve. The olives and eggs may be 
 omitted if one does not care for them. 
 
 Chicken Cutlets. 
 
 For a dozen and a half cutlets use a generous pint of 
 cooked chicken, chopped rather coarse, a cupful of cream, 
 three table-spoonfuls of butter, one of flour, one of salt, 
 four level table-spoonfuls of fine-chopped mushrooms, 
 four eggs, one pint of sifted crumbs, half a teaspoonftu 
 of pepper, half a teaspoonful of onion juice, one table- 
 spoonful of lemon juice, and one teaspoonful of chopped 
 parsley. 
 
 Mix the chicken with the satt, pepper, parsley, onion 
 juice, lemon juice, and chopped mushrooms. Put the 
 cream on the stove in a large frying-pan. Beat the flour 
 and butter together until smooth and light, and when the 
 cream begins to boil, stir this mixture into it. Stir con- 
 stantly until the sauce boils again ; then add the seasoned 
 chicken, and cook for three minutes. Beat two of the 
 eggs until light, and stir them into the boiling ingre- 
 dients. Take the frying-pan from the fire immediately, 
 and after pouring the contents into a flat dish, put them 
 away to cool. It is well to set the dish in the open air 
 in frosty weather, or to place it, when cool, on ice in the 
 refrigerator for an hour or more; for the colder the 
 mixture becomes, the more easily may the cutlets be 
 formed. 
 
 Butter a cutlet mould thoroughly, and sprinkle some 
 crumbs into it. Pack with chicken, and then give the 
 mould a tap on the table, to make the cutlet drop out. 
 
846 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Again sprinkle the mould with crumbs, and pack as be- 
 fore. The mould is buttered only once, but is sprinkled 
 with crumbs each time a new cutlet is formed. 
 
 When all the chicken has been used, beat the two re- 
 maining eggs in a deep plate, and put some of the crumbs 
 
 in another plate. 
 Drop the cutlets in 
 the eggs first, and in 
 the crumbs after- 
 ward. At serving- 
 Cutlet and Cutlet-mould. ,. ,, 
 
 time put them into 
 
 a frying-basket, being careful not to crowd them, and 
 cook in boiling fat for two minutes. Drain well, and 
 serve with white mushroom or Bechamel sauce. 
 
 If you do not possess a cutlet mould, it costs only 
 twenty-five cents, use a knife to shape the chicken 
 mixture like cutlets. 
 
 Turkey Cutlets with Chestnut Pur6e. 
 
 
 
 Make turkey cutlets the same as chicken cutlets. 
 Heap a chestnut puree in the centre of a warm dish, 
 and arrange the cutlets in a circle around it. Garnish 
 with a few sprigs of parsley. Serve hot with Bechamel 
 sauce in a separate dish. 
 
 For twelve people use the full rules for the sauce 
 and puree and twice the rule for the cutlets. 
 
 Legs of Chicken a la Jardiniere. 
 
 For this dish there will be required the legs of four 
 chickens, those from which fillets were taken for su- 
 preme of chicken, eight dessert-spoonfuls of either 
 chicken or liver force-meat, three pints of white stock, 
 two table-spoonfuls each of chopped onion, carrot, turnip, 
 and celery, a bit of mace, one teaspoonful of salt, one- 
 fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, one sprig of parsley, 
 four table-spoonfuls of butter, three of flour, eight paper 
 
ENTRIES. 347 
 
 ruffles, and three pints of turnip, carrot, and peas pre- 
 pared a la jardiniere. Directions for making the ruffles 
 are given in the chapter on " Garnishes. " 
 
 Bone the legs, being careful not to cut through the 
 flesh. Now spread a dessert-spoonful of force-meat be- 
 tween the flesh where the bones were taken out, and in 
 that part of the leg from which the drumstick was removed 
 insert a small wing-bone. Sew the flesh together. When 
 all are done, lay them flat in a stew-pan, and pour over 
 them the stock, which should be boiling. Add the vege- 
 tables and seasoning. Place the pan on the fire, and after 
 covering it, let its contents simmer for one hour. At the 
 end of that time take them from the stew-pan, and ar- 
 range them in a large flat pan, having them lie perfectly 
 flat, and being careful that they do not touch each other. 
 Place another pan on top of them, and put some heavy 
 weights in the upper pan (two bricks will answer). Set 
 away in a cool place for two or three hours. 
 
 Strain the stock in which the legs were boiled, and 
 skim off all the fat. Measure a generous pint of this 
 liquid, and put it aside for the sauce. Now put the 
 butter on the fire in a frying-pan. When it gets hot, 
 add the flour, and stir until the latter becomes browned 
 slightly. Draw the pan back, and gradually add the 
 strained stock. Stir until the mixture boils, and then 
 simmer for four minutes, stirring several times. Taste, 
 to see if it requires more salt and pepper. Strain into a 
 stew-pan, and put away until the chicken legs are cold. 
 
 Remove the weights from the legs after two or three 
 hours have passed. Draw out the threads and trim the 
 legs. Add a gill of stock to the sauce in the stew- 
 pan. Put in the chicken legs, and simmer for fifteen 
 minutes. 
 
 Heap the vegetables a la jardiniere in the centre of a 
 warm platter, and arrange the chicken legs around them. 
 Slip the paper ruffles over the ends of the drumsticks. 
 Pour the sauce around the legs, and serve at once. 
 
348 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Chicken Legs a la Villeroi. 
 
 Prepare the chicken legs as for a dish a la jardiniere, 
 but do not make the sauce until after the chicken has 
 been pressed. Now make the sauce as before, but omit 
 the extra gill of stock. Add to the sauce one table- 
 spoonful of lemon juice and the yolks of two eggs beaten 
 with two table-spoonfuls of cream. Take from the fire 
 immediately, and put in the chicken legs. Coat every 
 part with sauce, and let the chicken cool. 
 
 Now beat two eggs in a soup-plate ; also have at hand 
 a large plate of fine bread crumbs. 
 
 Take the legs, one by one, in the left hand, holding 
 them by the drumstick, and, with a knife, spread the 
 sauce evenly over them. Sprinkle with crumbs, and 
 then cover them with beaten egg, pouring the egg over 
 them with a table-spoon. Now roll in crumbs, cover- 
 ing every part. Have the board sprinkled with crumbs, 
 and let the breaded chicken rest on this 
 until it is finished. Put a few pieces at a 
 time in the frying-basket, and cook in hot 
 fat for two minutes. Arrange on a warm 
 napkin in the centre of the dish. Garnish 
 with a circle of sliced tomatoes. Put a gen- 
 erous teaspoonful of Mayonnaise or Tartar 
 sauce in the centre of each slice of tomato. 
 
 Stuffed Chicken g end to the table a gmall dish of the game 
 Leg with Paper . 
 
 Ruffle. kind of sauce as that used on the tomatoes. 
 
 How to Fillet Poultry and Game. 
 
 Cut the skin of the breast of a chicken or bird, and 
 draw it back so as to leave the breast bare. Remove 
 the crop. With a small, sharp knife, cut down through 
 the centre of the breast, following the dotted line shown 
 in the illustration, round the wish-bone and wing-bone, 
 and also round on the side. Slip the fingers between 
 the flesh and the breastbone, and press the flesh away 
 
ENTRIES. 
 
 349 
 
 from the bone. One-half of the breast will be detached, 
 giving a smooth fillet-shaped piece of meat. There are 
 
 Chicken. Should be Cut on Dotted Lines. 
 
 two fillets in this piece, the large and the minion. 
 The minion fillet is on the under side, and may easily be 
 separated from the larger one. Slip the point of the 
 knife under the thin skin that covers the fillets, and 
 draw it off as if you were skinning a fish. In the 
 
 Chicken with Two Fillets Removed. 
 
 minion fillet there will be found a sinew, which should 
 
 be removed. Wet the wooden vegetable-masher, and 
 
 pound the fillets ; also curve them 
 
 a little. The minion fillets may be 
 
 pounded gently until of the size of 
 
 large fillets. Two of them may then 
 
 be put together and lightly pounded 
 
 again, to keep them in place. In this way every 
 
 A Fillet. 
 
350 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 chicken or bird may be made to yield three large fillets. 
 When the fillets are properly trimmed and curved, they 
 will have the shape shown by the last cut on page 349. 
 
 Supreme of Chicken Farce. 
 
 For eight or nine people use the fillets of three good- 
 sized chickens, one can of mushrooms, one large chicken 
 liver, the meat from the second joints of the legs of 
 one chicken, one table-spoonful of stale bread, one 
 gill of cream, one table-spoonful of sherry, the white 
 of one egg, two table-spoonfuls of butter, one pint 
 of consomme, salt, pepper, and a slight grating of 
 nutmeg. 
 
 After filleting the chickens, separate the minion, or 
 under, fillets from the large ones. Wet a board with 
 cold water, and lay the fillets on it. Dip the wooden 
 vegetable-masher into cold water. Now pat the small 
 fillets gently until they are spread into about the same 
 shape and size as the large fillets. Split the large fillets. 
 Cover, and put away in a cold place until the force-meat 
 is ready. 
 
 Boil the chicken livers for twenty minutes. Free the 
 two second joints of the chicken legs from skin and 
 bone. Chop and pound the meat to a paste ; add the 
 cooked livers, and pound a little longer. Eub this mix- 
 ture through a puree sieve. Now put the bread and 
 cream into a small saucepan, and cook slowly for ten 
 minutes. Add the butter to this, and take from the fire. 
 Mix well, and then add the chicken meat and liver, also 
 the well-beaten white of the egg, the nutmeg, one gen- 
 erous teaspoonful of salt, and a grain of white pepper. 
 Mix all until perfectly smooth. 
 
 Spread a thin layer of the force-meat between each 
 large fillet and on three of the small fillets. Place the 
 other three small fillets over those that are covered with 
 force-meat, and press them together. They will now be 
 
ENTRIES. 351 
 
 about the same size and shape as the large fillets. Lay 
 the fillets in a large frying-pan, having them slightly 
 curved and the smooth side up. Cover them with but- 
 tered paper. Add the consomme, three table-spoonfuls 
 of butter, and three table-spoonfuls of sherry, and heat 
 to the boiling-point. Set back where they will simmer 
 for an hour. Drain, and then simmer the can of mush- 
 rooms in one pint of supreme sauce for ten minutes. 
 Heap the mushrooms in the centre of a flat dish, and 
 arrange the fillets around them. Pour the sauce over 
 them, and serve very hot. 
 
 Supreme of Chicken a la Parisienne. 
 
 Use the fillets of four chickens, one small can of 
 truffles, one can of mushrooms, eight thin slices of red 
 tongue, the white of one egg, one pint of consomme, half 
 a cupful of clarified butter, one gill of glaze, one table- 
 spoonful of salt, one pint of supreme sauce, one pint and 
 a half of chicken-liver force-meat. 
 
 Fillet the chickens, and separate the minion fillets from 
 the large ones. Curve them all the same way. Pour 
 three table-spoonfuls of the clarified butter into a frying- 
 pan, and let it cool in the pan. Now arrange the large 
 fillets in the buttered pan, having the smooth side up 
 and curving them all the same way. Sprinkle with salt. 
 Cover the bottom of a smaller pan with clarified butter, 
 and when the butter has cooled, arrange the small fillets 
 in this pan, and sprinkle with salt. Cut two or three 
 truffles in thin slices, and with small fancy-cutters stamp 
 out stars and various shapes. Beat the white of the egg 
 until well broken but not light. Brush a little of it on 
 each of the large fillets. Now decorate with the fancy 
 shapes of truffles. When all are done, brush lightly with 
 the white of the egg. Let this dry, and then cover with 
 a sheet of buttered paper. Set away in a cool place until 
 time for cooking. Treat the small fillets in the same way, 
 
352 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 using, however, red tongue instead of truffles. Now 
 make the liver force-meat (see chapter on " Garnishes "), 
 and put it into a small, plain border-mould which has been 
 well buttered. Put this away until time for cooking. 
 Cut seven slices of tongue into the shape of fillets. Put 
 these away also. Make the supreme sauce. Open the 
 mushrooms. Chop the remainder of the truffles rather 
 fine. Half an hour before serving-time put the mould of 
 force-meat into a deep pan with hot water enough to 
 reach two-thirds the height of the mould. Cover with 
 buttered paper, and place in a moderate oven. When it 
 has been in the oven for ten minutes, open the door. 
 Have three or four table-spoonfuls of butter melted ; 
 take the papers from the fillets, and then baste with the 
 melted butter. Eeplace the papers, and put the frying- 
 pans into the oven with the force-meat. Cook twenty 
 minutes, keeping the oven door open all the time. 
 While these are cooking, put the pieces of tongue into a 
 small stew-pan, with half the glaze and half a gill of 
 consomme, and cook for ten minutes. Put the mush- 
 rooms into another stew-pan with the remainder of the 
 consomme", and simmer for ten minutes. Reserve one 
 gill of the supreme sauce, and put the chopped truffles 
 into the remainder. Strain the consomme from the 
 mushrooms, saving it for sauces, and put the mushrooms 
 with the sauce. Drain the butter from the fillets. Re- 
 move the papers, and put half of the gill of reserved 
 sauce over each pan of fillets. Cook this on top of the 
 stove for four minutes, being careful not to let it get so 
 hot that the sauce will boil. While this is cooking, turn 
 the border of force-meat on a large flat dish. Pour the 
 consomme from the pieces of tongue, and add the re- 
 mainder of the glaze to them. Arrange the large fillets 
 and the tongue alternately around this border. Pour 
 the sauce and mushrooms into the centre of the border, 
 and then arrange the minion fillets on the top. Serve at 
 once. 
 
ENTREES. 353 
 
 TIMBALES. 
 
 Timbales are made in many ways. When prepared 
 for entrees they can be made wholly of meat or fish ; or 
 they may be a combination of meat and some form of 
 macaroni ; or, again, of pastry and some rich ragout of 
 meat or fish. The most popular are those made with 
 force-meat and a rich ragout, or a combination of force- 
 meat, macaroni, and a ragout. 
 
 In sweet dishes the timbale may be a crust of pastry, 
 or a fancy cake filled with fruit or cream. 
 
 Eules will be given for the best timbales for entrees. 
 As force-meat will enter largely into these preparations, 
 the directions for making force-meat, in the chapter on 
 " Garnishes," should be read carefully. 
 
 Timbales are made in very small moulds, holding from 
 half a gill to a gill ; or in one large mould. Where time 
 is of great value, the large mould is the best to use. It 
 makes a very effective dish when handsomely decorated. 
 A charlotte-russe mould may be used for these large 
 timbales. 
 
 Timbales made wholly or in part with force-meat may 
 be decorated at the sides and bottom with truffles or red 
 tongue. Cut the truffles or tongue in very thin slices, 
 and then, with small fancy cutters, stamp out various 
 shapes. Butter the moulds, and decorate the bottom and 
 sides with the bits of truffle or tongue. Cover the sides 
 and bottom with force-meat, being careful not to disturb 
 the decorations. 
 
 When one large mould is used instead of several small 
 ones, three times the quantity of filling must be used for 
 the same amount of force-meat. 
 
 Chicken Timbales. 
 
 Great care is required in the preparation of this dish, 
 which has become popular as an entree in company 
 
 23 
 
354 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 dinners and luncheons. With the quantity of materials 
 that will be given below, one quart mould or a dozen 
 small dariole moulds may be filled, enough for twelve 
 persons. The work may be divided into three parts. 
 
 To Make the Force-meat. Use the uncooked breasts 
 of four chickens, one pint of cream, half a pint of stale 
 bread, free of crust, six table-spoonfuls of butter, one 
 blade of mace, one table-spoonful of salt, one-eighth of 
 a teaspoonful of white pepper, and the whites of four 
 eggs. 
 
 Chop the chicken breasts fine, and pound the meat to 
 a paste ; then rub it through a puree sieve. There 
 should be a pint of the sifted meat. Put the bread, 
 cream, and mace in a stew-pan, and cook gently for twenty 
 minutes ; then remove the mace, and, with a spoon, mash 
 the bread and cream to a smooth paste. Add the butter, 
 salt, pepper, and meat to this paste, and finally add the 
 whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat the 
 mixture until all the ingredients are well blended; then 
 set away to cool. 
 
 To Make the Filling. Use three gills of cream, a pint 
 of cooked chicken, cut into small cubes, four table-spoon- 
 fuls of chopped mushrooms, one of flour, a heaping tea- 
 spoonful of salt, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper, 
 and one table-spoonful of chopped truffles. 
 
 Reserve half a cupful of the cream, and put the re- 
 mainder on to boil. Mix the flour to a smooth paste 
 with the half-cupful of cold cream, and stir the mixture 
 into the boiling cream. Boil for one minute ; then add 
 the chicken and other ingredients, and cook for three 
 minutes longer. Take from the fire ; and if the flavor 
 of onion be liked, add a few drops of onion juice at this 
 point. 
 
 Completion of the Work. Butter the mould or moulds 
 lightly, and after dotting the bottom and sides with bits 
 of truffles, line them with force-meat, being careful to 
 have every part well covered. The sides, near the rim, 
 " 
 
ENTRIES. 355 
 
 will require as thick a covering as any part of the mould. 
 Now almost fill each mould with the chicken preparation, 
 and cover with the force-meat, being careful to put on 
 only a little at a time, and always to work from the 
 outer edge until the centre is reached. Be careful, also, 
 to have the surface of the contents of the mould flat, 
 because if it be at all rounded the contents will be uii- 
 
 Chicken Timbales. 
 
 stable when turned out on a dish. Place the moulds in 
 a deep pan, and pour enough warm water into the pan to 
 come almost to the rims o.f the moulds. Cover the tops 
 of the moulds with buttered paper, and set the pan in 
 a very moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. Every- 
 thing depends upon the slow cooking. At serving-time 
 turn the timbales out on a warm dish, and pour Bechamel 
 cream sauce or Bechamel yellow sauce around them ; or 
 serve on a napkin. 
 
 Sweetbread Timbales. 
 
 Make the white chicken force-meat (see chapter on 
 "Garnishes"). Make a filling with one large sweet- 
 bread or a pair of small ones, there should be a half- 
 pint when it is cut into dice, three table-spoonfuls of 
 chopped mushrooms, a scant half-pint of cream, one 
 table-spoonful of flour, one teaspoonful of butter, half a 
 teaspoon ful of salt, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of white 
 pepper, and one-fourth of a teaspoonful of onion juice. 
 
356 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Clean the sweetbreads, and then boil them in slightly 
 salted water, for twenty minutes. Take them from the 
 boiling water, and put them into a bowl of cold water for 
 ten minutes. When they are perfectly cold, cut them 
 into dice. Add the chopped mushrooms to them. Mix 
 foiir table-spoonfuls of the cream with the flour. Put 
 the balance of the cream into a small saucepan on the 
 stove. When the cream boils, add the flour, pouring in 
 slowly and stirring from the bottom all the time. When 
 this boils, add the sweetbreads, mushrooms, and sea- 
 soning. Simmer for five minutes; then add the butter, 
 and take from the fire. Decorate six moulds with 
 truffles, and then line with the force-meat, the same as 
 directed for chicken timbales. Nearly fill the moulds 
 with the sweetbread preparation. Cover with force- 
 meat, and cook as directed for chicken timbales. Serve 
 with supreme or Bechamel sauce. 
 
 This may be made in one large mould ; in which 
 case use a pint-and-a-half charlotte mould. Use the 
 same amount of force-meat, but three times as much 
 filling. 
 
 Timbale a la Financtere. 
 
 Make four times the rule of chicken force-meat (white 
 meat is best, but the dark will do). Make half a pint of 
 the force-meat into quenelles, shaping them in teaspoons. 
 Poach these, and put them aside for the ragout. Now 
 make a financiere ragout. Butter a charlotte mould that 
 will hold about a quart ; line the bottom and sides with 
 the force-meat, having it about an inch thick. Fill this 
 with the ragout, leaving a space about an inch deep at 
 the top. Cover with the remainder of the force-meat, 
 having it perfectly smooth and level on top. Cover the 
 surface with buttered paper. Put the mould into a deep 
 pan, with boiling water coming to within an inch of the 
 top. Put into the oven, and cook with the door open for 
 
ENTRIES. 357 
 
 three-quarters of an hour. At serving-time turn on to 
 a warm dish, and gently raise the mould. Pour finan- 
 ciere sauce round it, and serve at once. 
 
 Spaghetti Timbales. 
 
 Use the same materials as for chicken tim bales, also 
 three ounces of spaghetti. Have the force-meat and fill- 
 ing ready. Put two quarts of boiling water and one 
 table-spoonful of salt into a fish-kettle if you have one ; 
 if not, put half the amount of water and salt into a large 
 milk-pan. Lay the spaghetti in this, being careful not 
 to break it. Boil gently for ten minutes. Pour off the 
 water, and cover with cold water. Spread a clean towel 
 
 Spaghetti Timbales. 
 
 on a board placed upon the table. Lift the spaghetti 
 carefully, and spread it at full length on the towel. 
 Butter twelve dariole moulds, and line them with the 
 spaghetti. Begin in the centre of the bottom, and wind 
 the spaghetti around spirally until the top of the mould 
 is reached. This must be done loosely because the spa- 
 ghetti will expand in cooking. Cover this with the force- 
 meat, and proceed exactly as for chicken timbales. 
 Serve with Bechamel yellow sauce. 
 
 Macaroni Timbales. 
 
 Cook and treat three ounces of macaroni the same as 
 the spaghetti, except that it must boil fifteen minutes. 
 
358 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Measure the height of the moulds, and cut the macaroni 
 in lengths to fit the moulds. Butter the moulds, and 
 line the sides with the strips of macaroni. Line this 
 with the force-meat, and proceed exactly the same as 
 for the chicken timbales. Serve with Bechamel or 
 supreme sauce. 
 
 Honeycomb Timbale. 
 
 For this use the rule for the force-meat for chicken 
 timbales, and three times the rule for the filling; also 
 four ounces of macaroni. Cook the macaroni the same 
 as for macaroni timbales, and cut it into three-quarter- 
 inch lengths. Butter a two-quart charlotte mould very 
 generously. Cover the bottom of the mould with the 
 macaroni, placing the short pieces on end. Treat the 
 sides in the same manner, having the pieces of macaroni 
 at right angles with those on the bottom of the mould. 
 Cover the macaroni with a thin coating of force-meat, 
 and then add the filling. Now cover with the remainder 
 of the force-meat, and treat the same as chicken tim- 
 bales. Serve with mushroom white sauce. 
 
 * 
 
 Chicken-Liver Timbale. 
 
 Make the rule for chicken-liver force-meat, and add 
 to it one gill of Bechamel sauce. Mix thoroughly, and 
 then add one pint of the breast of cooked chicken, cut 
 into dice. Butter a three-pint charlotte mould, and put 
 the mixture into it. It will not quite fill it. Cover 
 with buttered paper, and place in a pan of boiling water. 
 Cook slowly for one hour. Turn upon a flat dish, and 
 pour Allemand sauce around it. 
 
 Veal Timbales. 
 
 Veal may be used for timbales in the same manner 
 as chicken, but it must be cooked three times as long. 
 
ENTRIES. 359 
 
 Game Timbales. 
 
 Partridge, grouse, quail, pigeons, etc., are prepared in 
 timbales the same as chicken. 
 
 Salmon Timbales. 
 
 For a quart mould, or twelve of the smallest-sized 
 dariole moulds, use a pound and a half of salmon, free 
 of skin and bones ; one pint of cream, half a pint of 
 stale bread, three-quarters of a cupful of butter, half a 
 cupful of mushrooms, three teaspoonfuls of salt, half a 
 teaspoonful of pepper, a slight grating of nutmeg, and 
 four eggs. 
 
 Cook the bread and cream together for ten minutes. 
 Pound the salmon and mushrooms to a paste, and then 
 rub through the puree sieve. Add the seasoning. When 
 the mixture of bread and cream is cold, add this and 
 the butter to the fish, and pound all together until 
 thoroughly blended. Add the eggs, well beaten. Put 
 this mixture into a well-buttered charlotte mould ; cover 
 with buttered paper, and cook for three-quarters of an 
 hour. Serve with a lobster or anchovy sauce. 
 
 Other Fish Timbales. 
 
 Use any kind of delicate white fish for the force-meat, 
 and make a filling with lobster, shrimp, or oysters. The 
 rule for chicken timbale can be followed in making 
 these fish timbales. Of course, one may change the 
 seasoning to suit one's taste in any of these dishes. 
 
 Swedish Timbales. 
 
 For the shells use half a pint of flour, one generous 
 gill of milk, two eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, half a 
 teaspoonful of sugar, and one table-spoonful of salad oil. 
 
 Beat the eggs until light, and then add the milk to 
 
860 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 them. Pour this mixture on to the flour, and beat to a 
 smooth batter. Add the other ingredients, and beat two 
 minutes longer. Put the timbale iron in a kettle of 
 hot fat for about ten minutes. Take the bowl of batter 
 in the left hand, and hold it near the kettle of fat ; with 
 the right hand lift the iron from the fat, and dip it into 
 the batter, coating the iron about an inch deep with the 
 
 Process of Making Swedish Timbales. 
 
 batter, and holding it as illustrated. Return the iron to 
 the fat, and cook the batter until it is a delicate brown. 
 It will take about one minute. Lift the iron from the 
 fat, and turn it over to drain all the grease from the 
 timbale. Have a pan lined with brown paper, and -drop 
 the timbale into this. Continue this process until all the 
 batter has been cooked. 
 
 These timbale shells will be found delicate, crisp cups. 
 After making a few it will be an easy matter to get the 
 shapes perfect. 
 
ENTKEES. 861 
 
 Arrange the shells on a dish, and put into each a heap- 
 ing table-spoonful of any kind of meat or fish cut 
 into dice and heated in a delicate sauce. Any of the 
 ragouts given in the book may be served in these 
 shells. They make a nice dessert if arranged on a dish, 
 and one heaping table-spoonful of any kind of hot 
 stewed and seasoned fruit be put into each one. The 
 quantity of materials given will make about eighteen 
 shells. 
 
 Macaroni Timbale a la Milanaise. 
 
 For a quart mould there will be required half the 
 rule of the chopped puff paste, one quarter of a pound of 
 macaroni, a cupful and a half of cooked chicken, half a 
 cupful of chopped mushrooms, a pint of Bechamel yellow 
 sauce, and some salt and pepper. 
 
 Make the paste, and chill it thoroughly. Now cut two 
 pieces of white paper to line the mould, one to fit 
 round the sides and the other on the bottom. Butter 
 these papers. Now butter a quart charlotte mould, and 
 line it with about two-thirds of the paste. Place the 
 buttered paper over the paste, and fill the mould with 
 flour. Now roll the remainder of the paste to the shape 
 of the top of the mould, but a little larger. Place this 
 on top of the mould, and press the edges against the 
 paste lining. Bake in a moderate oven for one hour. 
 When done, take from the mould. Loosen, and lift off 
 the cover. Turn the flour out of the case. Remove 
 the paper, and fill the case with the macaroni prepa- 
 ration, which should be cooked while the pastry is 
 baking. 
 
 Macaroni a la Milanaise is prepared in this way : Break 
 the macaroni into small pieces, and put it into a stew-pan 
 with three pints of boiling water and a teaspoonful of 
 salt. Boil rapidly, with the cover off the pan, for half 
 an hour. Now drain off the water, and add the chicken, 
 cut into cubes, the mushrooms, one teaspoonful of salt, 
 
362 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 half a teaspoonful of pepper, and the hot sauce. Place 
 the saucepan in another containing boiling water, and 
 stir over the fire until hot. It will take about four 
 minutes if the sauce and macaroni be hot. Pour this 
 mixture into the case, and after putting on the cover, 
 serve at once. 
 
 Any kind of nice ragout may be used to fill these 
 cases, the timbale taking the name of the filling. 
 
 Liver-Force-meat Border, Garnished with 
 Poultry Scallops. 
 
 Make the chicken-liver force-meat. Butter a pint-and- 
 a-half border mould, plain or fluted, and pack the 
 force-meat into it. Set in a cool place until an hour 
 before the time for serving. 
 
 Force-meat Border with Poultry Scallops. 
 
 Cut the breast of a cold roast chicken or turkey into 
 thin round slices about the size of a silver dollar. There 
 should be a pint and a half of this meat. Add to this 
 half a pint of mushrooms, cut in slices. Season with a 
 generous teaspoonful of salt and one-fourth of a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper. Place in a cool room until time for 
 heating. 
 
 One hour before serving-time place the mould of force- 
 meat in a deep pan, and pour warm water into the pan un- 
 til it comes within half an inch of the top of the mould. 
 Cover the mould with buttered paper. Place the pan on 
 top of the stove, and heat the water to the boiling-point. 
 
ENTREES. 363 
 
 Draw the pan back immediately where the water will 
 keep nearly at the boiling-point j but it must not bubble. 
 
 When the force-meat has been cooking forty minutes, 
 put the poultry and mushrooms into the double-boiler 
 with half a gill of chicken stock. Set it on the stove, 
 and at the end of fifteen minutes add one pint of Becha- 
 mel yellow sauce. Stir for five minutes, and then take 
 from the fire. 
 
 Turn the force-meat border on a warm platter. Fill 
 the centre with the poultry scallops and sauce. Serve 
 very hot. 
 
 Any kind of force-meat may be used for a border, and 
 the filling may be of a rich or simple ragout of poultry, 
 sweetbreads, or game. Force-meat borders of fish may 
 be filled with any kind of delicate fish warmed in Becha- 
 mel, cream, or poulette sauce. 
 
 Galantine of Fowl. 
 
 Select a fowl weighing about five pounds. See that 
 every part of the skin is whole. Singe, but do not draw 
 the fowl ; wipe it with a damp towel. Cut off the head, 
 the tips of the wings, and the feet. Place the fowl on a 
 board, breast down. With a small, sharp boning-knife, 
 cut in a straight line through to the bone the whole 
 length of the fowl. Now work the knife between the 
 flesh and bone, beginning at the neck. Be careful not 
 to cut through the skin. When the bones of the second 
 joint of the wings have been freed from flesh, disjoint 
 and remove them. Take out the bones from the first 
 joints. It does not matter in a galantine if the skin be 
 broken in the second joint. Continue the work until all 
 the flesh has been freed from the bones. Take out the 
 skeleton ; spread the skin and flesh on the board, and 
 remove the gross fat that will be found near the crop 
 and near the vent at the other end. Draw the flesh of 
 the legs and the wings inside. Cut all the tough tendons 
 
364 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 from the drumstick. Cut most of the meat from the 
 legs, being careful not to take the skin too. Spread this 
 on the parts of the fowl where there is little meat. Take 
 the minion fillets from the breast, and lay them on the 
 part from which the crop was removed. Dredge the 
 fowl with two level table-spoonfuls of salt and one tea- 
 spoonful of pepper. Spread on this the force-meat 
 described below, being careful so to dispose of the force- 
 meat that when the fowl is served all parts will be 
 equally thick. 
 
 To Make the force-meat. Chop very fine the raw, 
 lean flesh of a fowl weighing about four pounds. Add 
 to this one-fourth of a pound of finely chopped fat salt 
 pork, half a cupful of fine cracker crumbs, two-thirds of 
 a cupful of rich stock, one table-spoonful and a half of 
 salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, half a teaspoonful 
 each of summer savory and sweet marjoram, one-fourth 
 of a teaspoonful each of thyme and sage, the herbs 
 should be powdered, one table-spoonful of onion juice, 
 half a can of mushrooms, and a small can of truffles, cut 
 rather coarse. The truffles may be omitted. 
 
 Galantine of Fowl. 
 
 Mix all these ingredients thoroughly. When the force- 
 meat has been spread, sew up the fowl, keeping it about 
 the same thickness its entire length. Place it on a 
 strong piece of cloth ; pin the cloth firmly about it, and 
 tie it at both ends and in three or four other places, as 
 shown in the cut. Put the bones of both fowls in a fish- 
 kettle or ham-boiler, and lay the galantine on these. Place 
 on the fire. Add boiling water enough to cover the galan- 
 
ENTREES. 365 
 
 tine. Let it boil up ; then skim it, and draw the kettle 
 back where the water will only simmer. Add one small 
 carrot, one onion, two stalks of celery, half a blade of 
 mace, a stick of cinnamon, six cloves, a table-spoonful 
 of pepper-corns, and a level table-spoonful of salt. Cover 
 the kettle, and let the mixture simmer for three hours. 
 Take the kettle from the fire, and let the galantine stand 
 in the liquor for one hour. At the end of that time take 
 up the galantine. Take off the cloth, and wipe the meat 
 to free it of fat and moisture. Pin the galantine in 
 a clean cloth, place a pan and two bricks on top of it, 
 and let it stand in a cool place for several hours. 
 
 When the galantine is to be served, remove the cloth, 
 and place the galantine in the oven for three minutes. 
 Wipe it, and then brush it with glaze. Place it on a long 
 dish, and garnish with aspic jelly and parsley or white 
 celery leaves. 
 
 A turkey can be prepared in the same way. Thin 
 slices of cold boiled red tongue are frequently spread 
 over the boned fowl with the force-meat. The water in 
 which the galantine and bones are cooked will answer 
 for the aspic jelly. If a set of calf's feet be boiled with 
 the other things, no gelatine will be required for the 
 jelly. 
 
 Fillet of Partridge. 
 
 Fillet the partridges, and prepare the fillets the same 
 as those cut from chickens. 
 
 Fillet of Cooked Partridges. 
 
 Use three cold roasted partridges, three table-spoon- 
 fuls each of chopped carrot, turnip, celery, six table- 
 spoonfuls of chopped onion, three of flour, six of butter, 
 one table-spoonful of lemon juice, one clove, a small 
 piece of mace, one can of mushrooms, one gill of claret, 
 one quart of water, and some salt and pepper. 
 
366 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Remove the fillets from the partridge. Free the 
 second joints of the legs of skin and bone, and place 
 them on the dish with the fillets. Cut all the tender 
 bits of meat from the birds, and place them beside the 
 second joints. Put the fillets and other portions of 
 clear meat in a cold place until it is time to heat them. 
 
 Break up the bones of the three birds, and put them 
 in a stew-pan with the water and any tough pieces of 
 meat, such as the drumsticks and wings. Cover, and 
 simmer gently for two hours. At the end of that time 
 strain off the liquor and set it away to cool. When cold, 
 skim off the fat. Now put the butter and chopped vege- 
 tables in a stew-pan, and cook slowly for half an hour. 
 At the end of that time draw forward to a hotter part of 
 the stove, and stir until the vegetables get browned 
 slightly. Now add the flour, and stir until it turns a 
 dark brown ; then draw to a cooler place, and gradually 
 add one pint of the liquor in which the bones were 
 boiled. Now add the spice, a grain of cayenne, one- 
 fourth of a teaspoonful of white pepper, and a level 
 teaspoonful of salt. Simmer for half an hour, and then 
 skim off the fat that will rise to the top. Add the 
 mushrooms and all the partridge meat except the fillets, 
 first seasoning the meat with salt and pepper. Cook 
 gently for ten minutes; then add the lemon juice and 
 half the claret, and cook two minutes longer. 
 
 As soon as the mushrooms and meat have been put on 
 to heat in the sauce, put the fillets into a stew-pan with 
 one teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, half a cupful of 
 the stock from the bones, and half the claret. Cook gently 
 for ten minutes. Now heap the mushrooms and the 
 meat in the centre of a warm dish. Arrange the fillets 
 around this mound. Pour the sauce in which the fillets 
 were warmed into the other sauce. Stir well, and pour 
 over the mixture in the centre of the dish. A circle of 
 stoned olives makes a pretty garnish for this dish. 
 Serve very hot. 
 
ENTRIES. 367 
 
 Fillets of Partridge a la Jardiniere. 
 
 Fillet three partridges, and separate the minion fillets 
 from the large ones. Season the fillets with salt and 
 pepper, and then dip them in a mixture consisting of 
 one table-spoonful of chopped parsley, one table-spoonful 
 of lemon juice, and half a cupful of melted butter. Let 
 the butter cool on them. Now dip them in two beaten 
 eggs and then in bread crumbs. Be sure that they are 
 well covered with the egg and crumbs. Fry them in 
 boiling fat. The large fillets will cook in six minutes, 
 and the small ones in four. Drain them on brown paper. 
 Have a dish of vegetables prepared a la jardiniere and 
 arranged in the centre of a large dish. Kest the fillets 
 against the mound of vegetables, and pour Bechamel 
 cream sauce around the base. Serve very hot. 
 
 Fillets of Grouse. 
 
 Fillets of grouse may be prepared the same as fillets 
 of partridge. 
 
 All the small birds may be filleted in the same way, 
 but the time of cooking is only two-thirds as long as for 
 the large ones. 
 
 Pigeon Cutlets. 
 
 For eight cutlets use four pigeons, one large egg, half 
 a pint of Dutch sauce, a heaping teaspoonful of salt, a 
 little pepper, and bread crumbs. Take the fillets from 
 the pigeons, and season them with the salt and pepper. 
 Have the egg beaten in a plate. Put one of the small 
 wing-bones in the small end of each fillet. Have the 
 sauce cold, and cover each fillet with it. Now roll the 
 fillets lightly in the crumbs ; then cover them with 
 beaten egg, and roll again in crumbs. Place in the 
 frying-basket, and cook in fat for five minutes. Drain, 
 and arrange in a circle on a warm dish. Fill the centre 
 
368 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 of the dish with cone-shaped sweet-potato croquettes. 
 Serve remoulade or Tartar sauce iu a separate dish. Or 
 the legs aud body of the pigeons may be made into a 
 ragout, and be poured into the centre of the dteh. No 
 other sauce will be required. Serve a dish of some deli- 
 cate vegetable with the cutlets. 
 
 Another way of preparing pigeon cutlets is to use cold 
 meat, and make exactly the same as chicken cutlets. 
 
 Salmi of Duck. 
 
 Use two cold roast ducks, a can of mushrooms, eigh- 
 teen stoned olives, one pint of Spanish sauce, half a pint 
 of clear stock, one gill of sherry, a table-spoonful of 
 lemon juice, a teaspoonful of salt, a little cayenne, and 
 twelve pieces of bread of triangular shape fried in 
 butter. 
 
 Cut the duck into handsome joints, and place it in a 
 stew-pan. Sprinkle it with the salt and pepper. Pour 
 the stock over it, and let it heat slowly to the boiling- 
 point. Add the olives and mushrooms, and boil for five 
 minutes. Now add the Spanish sauce, and cook until it 
 boils. When the sauce boils, add the sherry and lemon 
 juice, and cook one minute longer. Arrange the duck in 
 a mound on a warm dish. Place the mushrooms and 
 olives at the base, and finish with a border of the fried 
 bread. Pour the sauce over the duck, and serve very 
 hot. 
 
 This is a rich dish. The quantity given is enough for 
 ten or twelve persons. 
 
 Pattie Cases. 
 
 Make the rule for puff paste or chopped puff paste. 
 When it has been thoroughly chilled, place it on the 
 board and roll it down evenly until about an inch thick. 
 
ENTRIES. 369 
 
 Dip a pattie-cutter which will measure about three and 
 a half inches in diameter into a plate of flour ; shake off 
 all the loose flour, and then cut out a round of the paste. 
 Dip the cutter into the flour each time before cutting 
 the paste. When all are done, dip a cutter two inches 
 in diameter into a cup of boiling water, and then press 
 it about two-thirds through the paste, in the centre. 
 Put the patties into a flat baking-pan, having them at 
 least an inch apart, and a little distance from the sides 
 of the pan. Put the pan into a hot oven, and bake for 
 
 Pattie Cases. 
 
 ten minutes ; now lessen the heat, and cook for twenty- 
 five minutes longer. Take from the oven, and with a 
 teaspoon lift off the covers, in the centres of the patties, 
 and scoop out the uncooked paste that will be found 
 beneath them, being careful not to break the shells. 
 The cases are now ready to be filled with a hot prepara- 
 tion of fish or meat. If they are not to be used at once, 
 put them away in a cool, dry place, and heat them at 
 serving-time. Pattie-cutters may be plain or fluted, 
 round or oval. 
 
 Large Vol-au-vent Case. 
 
 Use one of the rules for puff paste. When the paste 
 is thoroughly chilled, roll it down to the thickness of 
 an inch and a half. With a sharp knife trim off the 
 edges, giving the paste a slightly oval shape. It will 
 now measure about nine inches in diameter. Trace a 
 circle on this about two inches and a half from the edge. 
 
370 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Dip a case-knife into a cup of boiling water, and, follow- 
 ing, the circle, cut about two-thirds through the paste. 
 Place the vol-au-vent in a large flat pan, being careful 
 not to let the paste touch the sides of the pan. Bake 
 for one hour. Have the oven very hot for the first ten 
 minutes, and then reduce the heat. When done, take 
 off the cover and scoop out the uncooked paste. 
 
 Large cutters come for vol-au-vents. If you have a 
 set, use them the same as the pattie-cutters. 
 
 Vol-au-vent Baked in a Mould. 
 
 Have a mould of the size you require. Cut some 
 plain stiff white paper, of the size and shape of the 
 sides and bottom of the m^uld, and butter them. Butter 
 the mould. Roll puff paste about one-fourth of an inch 
 thick, and line the mould with it. Lay the papers on 
 this. Now fill the mould with flour, and cover with 
 white paper. Boll a piece of paste to fit the top, having 
 it half an inch thick. Prick it with a fork. Cover the 
 mould with this, pressing the edges .of the cover and 
 the lining of the mould together. Bake in a moder- 
 ate oven for one hour. When done, lift off the cover, 
 turn out the flour, and remove the papers. The case is 
 now ready to fill with any preparation of fish, meat, or 
 fruit. The flour may be sifted and used for bread. A 
 two-quart charlotte mould may be used for the large vol- 
 au-vent, and the small timbale moulds for the small vol- 
 au-vents. This is the most economical mode of baking 
 a vol-au-vent. 
 
 Various Kinds of Vol-au-vents and Patties. 
 
 A vol-au-vent or pattie case may be filled with any 
 kind of delicate meat or fish heated in any one of the 
 following-named sauces : white, Bechamel, poulette, 
 clear brown, or mushroom. The meat must be free of 
 fat, skin, and bones. It should be cut into cubes when 
 
ENTRIES. 371 
 
 cold. Season a pint and a half with one teaspoonful of 
 salt, and one-third of a teaspoonful of white pepper. 
 Heat this in one pint of sauce. 
 
 Fish is always improved by the addition of one tea- 
 spoonful of lemon juice, which should be put in after 
 the hot mixture is taken from the fire. 
 
 Oysters should be heated to the boiling-point in their 
 own liquor. They should then be drained, and added 
 to a hot sauce. 
 
 Royal Vol-au-vent. 
 
 To fill a large vol-au-vent case use a pint of cooked 
 chicken and half a pint of cooked sweetbreads, cut into 
 cubes, half a pint of mushrooms, cut in small pieces, a 
 generous half -pint of white stock, half a pint of cream, 
 one small slice of carrot, one slice of onion, a bit of 
 mace, three table-spoonfuls of butter, one of flour, one 
 teaspoonful and a half of salt, one-third of a teaspoonful 
 of pepper, and one teaspoonful of lemon juice. 
 
 Mix the flour and butter in a small saucepan. Add 
 half the salt, pepper, vegetables, and stock. Place the 
 saucepan on the fire, and stir its contents until the sauce 
 begins to boil ; then set back where it will only simmer 
 for fifteen minutes. When that time has passed, strain 
 the sauce into another saucepan. Add the mushrooms, 
 and simmer for five minutes. Season the chicken and 
 sweetbread with the remainder of the salt and pepper. 
 
 When the mushrooms have been cooking in the sauce 
 for five minutes, add the cream, chicken, and sweetbread. 
 Boil up once ; then take it from the fire, and add the 
 lemon juice. Put the mixture into a large vol-au-vent 
 case. This filling will answer also for small patties. 
 
 Parisian Vol-au-vents. 
 
 Line and cover a dozen small dariole moulds as di- 
 rected for vol-au-vent cases baked in moulds. Bake 
 
372 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 them in a moderately hot oven for twenty-five minutes. 
 Take off the covers, and remove the flour and paper. 
 Fill with a mixture prepared as follows : 
 
 Clean a sweetbread and the brains of a calf, and boil 
 for twenty minutes ; then plunge them into ice-water, 
 and when they are cold, cut them into very small dice, 
 and season lightly with salt and pepper. Next put a 
 cupful of cream on to boil. Mix a level table-spoonful 
 of flour with a quarter of a cupful of cold cream, and stir 
 into the boiling cream. Boil up once, and season with 
 salt and pepper. Add the sweetbread and brains, and 
 cook the dish for eight minutes. 
 
 After filling the vol-au-vents with this mixture, put 
 the covers in place, and serve at once. Chicken and 
 mushrooms may be substituted for the sweetbread and 
 brains. 
 
 Vol-au-vent of Turkey. 
 
 For a large vol-au-vent use a generous pint and a half 
 of cooked turkey, cut into cubes, one pint of cream, one 
 table-spoonful of flour, one teaspoonful and a half of 
 salt, half a teaspoonful of white pepper, and one tea- 
 spoonful of lemon juice. Season the turkey with the 
 pepper and one teaspoonful of the salt. Mix the flour 
 with four table-spoonfuls of the cream. Put the rest of 
 the cream on the fire in a stew-pan, and when it boils, 
 stir in the mixed flour and cream. Cook for one minute, 
 stirring all the while. Now add the salt and onion juice, 
 and lastly the turkey. Simmer for five minutes, and fill 
 the vol-au-vent. 
 
 Italian Vol-au-vent. 
 
 Use a quarter of a pound of macaroni, six chicken livers, 
 half a pound of fresh mushrooms or one can of mush- 
 I'ooins, one pint of stock, one table-spoonful of Parmesan 
 cheese, four table-spoonfuls of butter, three of flour, two 
 of strained tomato,, two table-spoonfuls of chopped onion, 
 
ENTRIES. 373 
 
 one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, two teaspoonfuls of 
 salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
 Break the macaroni into small pieces, and put it in a 
 stew-pan with two quarts of water and a table-spoonful 
 of salt. Boil it for half an hour. 
 
 Cut the chicken livers into cubes, and boil them for 
 half an hour in water enough to cover them. 
 
 Put the butter, onion, and parsley into a stew-pan, and 
 cook slowly for ten minutes. Draw the stew-pan to a 
 hotter part of the fire after that time has passed, and 
 add the flour. Stir until frothy, and then add the stock. 
 Stir the mixture until it boils ; then draw back, and let 
 it simmer five minutes. Strain the sauce into another 
 stew-pan, and add the salt, pepper, mushrooms, and 
 chicken livers. 
 
 Drain the macaroni free of water, and add to it the 
 strained tomato and the cheese. When the livers and 
 mushrooms have been cooking in the sauce for ten min- 
 utes, put in the macaroni. Turn this mixture into a 
 large vol-au-vent case, and serve at once. 
 
 Imperial Vol-au-vent. 
 
 For this vol-au-vent there will be required the rule 
 for puff paste, the greater part of three chickens, a bottle 
 of cock's-combs, truffles, and mushrooms, a pint and a 
 half of supreme sauce, the rule for chicken quenelles, 
 the white of an egg, one pint of clear stock, and some 
 salt and pepper. 
 
 Make the puff paste, and chill it. When thoroughly 
 chilled, roll it down to about one inch in thickness, being 
 careful to get all parts of equal thickness. Lay an oval 
 border mould on this, and with a sharp knife cut the 
 paste in the form of the mould; cut out the centre of 
 this paste, leaving a border about an inch and a half 
 wide. Place this rim of paste where it will keep cold 
 while the bottom is being rolled and cut. Koll the 
 
374 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 piece of paste that was cut from the centre to the thick- 
 ness of a quarter of an inch. Lay the border mould on 
 this, and cut out a piece the size and shape of the mould. 
 Brush this over with the white of an egg which has been 
 beaten with one table-spoonful of cold water. Put the 
 ring of paste on this, and press slightly. Place on a large 
 
 dripping-pan, and 
 bake for three-quar- 
 ters of an hour. 
 Have the oven very 
 hot for the first ten 
 minutes ; then re- 
 duce the heat for 
 Imperial Vol-au-vent Case. the remainder of the 
 
 time. This vol-au- 
 
 vent may be baked at the time it is to be served ; or it 
 may be baked the day before, and be heated in the oven 
 just before being filled. 
 
 To Prepare the Filling. Fillet the chickens. Use one- 
 half of the fillets for the force-meat, and prepare the other 
 half as for supreme of chicken, decorating them with 
 truffles. Lay them in a buttered saucepan, and cover 
 with buttered paper ; and put them into the refrigerator 
 until it is time to poach them. 
 
 Make the quenelles, but shape them in teaspoons. 
 Make one quenelle round, for the top of the dish. Lay 
 them in a buttered pan, and decorate with truffles ; cover 
 with buttered paper, and put into the refrigerator. Put 
 the chicken legs into a stew-pan with boiling water 
 enough to cover them, and let them simmer until tender. 
 If the chickens are not more than a year old, they will 
 probably be done in one hour. Let them cool in the 
 water ; when cold, take them from the liquor and free 
 them of skin, fat, and bones. Cut the meat into pieces 
 the size of a quarter of a dollar. There should be a 
 generous pint and a half of meat. Season it with two 
 level teaspoonfuls of salt and one-fourth of a teaspoonful 
 
ENTRIES. 375 
 
 of white pepper. Put this in a cool place until the time 
 for putting the dish together. 
 
 Half an hour before serving-time, put the cock's- 
 combs in a stew-pan with enough chicken stock to cover 
 them, and cook fifteen or twenty minutes. Put the 
 chicken fillets in a moderate oven, and cook for twenty 
 minutes. Cover the quenelles with boiling chicken stock, 
 and set on a part of the stove where they will keep at the 
 boiling-point for twenty minutes. Heat the vol-au-vent 
 in the oven with the door open; it will take about 
 twenty minutes. Put the chicken which was cut up 
 into a stew-pan with one pint of the supreme sauce, and 
 
 Imperial Vol-au-vent 
 
 cook for fifteen minutes. Heat the remaining half-pint 
 of sauce. Put the mushrooms into a small stew-pan with 
 one table-spoonful of butter, half a teaspoon ful of salt, 
 two table-spoonfuls of stock, and two table-spoonfuls of 
 the sauce. Simmer for five minutes. 
 
 Take the vol-au-vent from the oven, place it on a 
 flat dish, and fill it with the chicken and supreme sauce. 
 Drain the fillets, quenelles, cock's-eombs, and mush- 
 rooms. Dip them into the hot sauce, and arrange them 
 on the top of the vol-au-vent, as shown in the illustra- 
 tion. This is a very elaborate dish, but it has this ad- 
 vantage, it may be prepared the day before it is to be 
 served. 
 
376 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Rissoles. 
 
 These may be made of any kind of cooked meat or 
 fish, the more delicate the better. The crust should 
 always be of puff paste. The trimmings left from mak- 
 ing pies, patties, or vol-au-vents may be used. 
 
 Chicken Rissoles. 
 
 For twelve rissoles use half a pint of cooked chicken, 
 cut into dice, two table- spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, 
 two table-spoonfuls of butter, one table-spoonful of flour, 
 one gill of milk, three drops of onion juice, a level tea- 
 Spoonful of salt, a little pepper, two eggs, one-fourth of 
 the rule for puff paste, or the trimmings of puff paste. 
 
 Prepare and chill the paste. Season the chicken and 
 mushroom with the salt, pepper, and onion juice. Put 
 the milk on to boil. Mix the butter and flour together, 
 and stir into the boiling milk. Boil for half a minute, 
 stirring all the while. Add the chicken and mushroom ; 
 cook for one minute, and then turn into a dish and set 
 away to cool. 
 
 When the preparation of chicken is cool, roll the paste 
 as thin as possible, and cut it out with a four-inch fluted 
 pattie-cutter. Put a generous teaspoonful of the cold 
 chicken in the centre of each round of paste ; wet the 
 edges with the white of one egg beaten with a table- 
 
 spoonful of cold water; 
 
 fold the paste over, and 
 
 press the edges together. 
 
 Have the white of one 
 
 Rissoles, before and after Folding. and the y lks f tw 
 
 beaten with one table- 
 
 spoonful of milk; cover the rissoles with this. When 
 
 all are coated with the egg, put them into the frying- 
 
 basket, and cook in hot fat for four minutes Drain, 
 and serve at once. 
 
ENTRIES. 377 
 
 This dish is served as an entre'e. All kinds of rissoles 
 are made in the same manner. When oysters are used 
 they must be scalded in their own liquor, and be well 
 drained before they are cut up. The seasoning of the 
 preparations may be changed to suit various tastes. 
 
 Anchovy Patties. 
 
 Make the anchovy force-meat, and add to it four table- 
 spoonfuls of any white sauce. Keep cool until the time 
 for making the patties. Make half the rule for puff 
 paste, and let the paste become thoroughly chilled. 
 When it is firm, cut off about two-thirds of it. Roll this 
 fco about one-eighth of an inch in thickness. Cut out 
 with a large pattie-cutter as many rounds as possible 
 (there should be about a dozen). Place these rounds on 
 a tin sheet, and put them into the refrigerator. Now 
 put the trimmings and the cold paste together, and roll 
 out and cut as before. Should the trimmings have be- 
 come very soft, chill them before rolling. Put a tea- 
 spoonful of the anchovy force-meat in the centre of each 
 one. Wet the rims with cold water. Now cover with 
 the rounds of paste that were cut out first. Have a sec- 
 ond pattie-cutter half an inch smaller in diameter than 
 the first. Press its blunt edge on the centre of the pattie 
 and around the filling of anchovy. This will fasten the 
 two sheets together near the force-meat. Bake in a 
 rather quick oven for eighteen or twenty minutes. 
 
 These patties are served in a dinner or luncheon as 
 an entre'e. 
 
 CROQUETTES. 
 
 Croquettes may be made in any form that suits one's 
 taste. The most common are the cylinder, cone, pear, 
 and ball shapes. These may be formed by the hands. 
 A hinged mould comes for forming cones. The cylinder 
 and ball shapes are the best, because a very soft 
 
378 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 PQ 
 
ENTRIES. 379 
 
 be shaped into this form, while the cone and pear 
 shapes require a firmer mixture. The croquette prepara- 
 tion should be thoroughly chilled; if not, it will be a 
 difficult matter to form the croquettes. There must be 
 plenty of fine dried crumbs, a large smooth board, a 
 beaten egg in a deep plate, a table-spoon and case-knife, 
 or, better still, a palette-knife. 
 
 Sprinkle the board lightly with the crumbs. Shape 
 the croquettes in the hand, and then roll them on the 
 board, handling them carefully. When all are shaped, 
 spread a thick layer of crumbs on one end of the board. 
 Put a croquette in the plate of beaten egg, and with a 
 spoon pour the egg over every part. Slip the knife 
 under the croquette, and lift it to the bed of crumbs. 
 Koll it in the crumbs until every part is coated ; then 
 lift it with the hand, and bring the ends down on the 
 board with a light tap. This will give a regular, smooth 
 shape to the ends. 
 
 When all the croquettes are breaded, they may be 
 fried at once ; or they may be put in a cool place and 
 kept there twelve hours or longer. When ready to fry, 
 
 Croquettes ready for Serving. 
 
 put some into the basket, being careful not to crowd 
 them. Fry in smoking hot fat for a minute and a half. 
 Drain them on brown paper, arrange on a folded napkin, 
 and serve very hot. A sauce is frequently served with 
 them. 
 
380 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 If a mould be used to form the croquettes, butter it 
 generously, sprinkle with dried crumbs, and pack it 
 solid with the croquette mixture. Now draw out the 
 wire that holds the two pieces of the mould together, 
 take out the croquette, fasten the mould again, and 
 proceed as before. The mould is to be buttered only 
 once, but it must be lined with crumbs each time a 
 croquette is formed. 
 
 If the mould makes a larger croquette than you wish, 
 only partially fill it. Remember that the mixture must 
 always be packed solid, or the shape will not be good. 
 When croquettes are formed in a pear shape, they should 
 be arranged on a dish with the large end down, and a bit 
 of parsley stuck in the stem end of each one. 
 
 Sweetbread Croquettes. 
 
 For a dozen croquettes use one pint of sweetbreads that 
 have been boiled for twenty minutes, and then cooled, and 
 chopped rather fine. It will take two or three pairs of 
 sweetbreads for this ; or, if weighed after being cleaned, 
 about one pound and a quarter. With the sweetbreads 
 use half a pint of cream or milk, four table-spoonfuls of 
 mushrooms, chopped fine, two table -spoonfuls of butter, 
 one table-spoonful of flour, one of lemon juice, a level 
 table-spoonful of salt, one-third of a teaspoonful of white 
 pepper, a slight grating of nutmeg, half a teaspoonful of 
 minced parsley, and two eggs. Some crumbs and two 
 extra eggs will be required for breading the croquettes. 
 
 Add the seasoning and the chopped mushrooms to the 
 chopped sweetbreads. Put the cream into a frying-pan, 
 and place on the stove where it will heat slowly. Beat 
 the flour and butter together, and add the mixture to the 
 cream when the latter boils. Stir until smooth; then 
 add the sweetbread mixture. Stir well, and simmer for 
 three minutes. Now add the two eggs, well beaten. 
 Stir quickly into the boiling mixture, and take from the 
 
ENTRIES. 381 
 
 fire immediately. Pour this on a platter, and put away 
 in a cool place. It should stand for two or three hours. 
 When cool and firm, shape into croquettes ; then bread 
 and fry. Serve with mushroom white sauce or Becha- 
 mel yellow sauce. 
 
 Chicken and Mushroom Croquettes. 
 
 For eighteen croquettes use one pint of cooked chicken, 
 chopped rather fine, half a pint of mushrooms, chopped 
 fine, three gills of cream, four table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 two level table-spoonfuls of flour, three teaspoonfuls of 
 salt, half a teaspoonful of white pepper, one table- 
 spoonful of lemon juice, one teaspoonful of onion juice, 
 three eggs, and crumbs and two extra eggs for breading. 
 Make these the same as the sweetbread croquettes. 
 Serve with mushroom white sauce. 
 
 * Mutton Croquettes. 
 
 Chop rather fine enough mutton to make a solid pint, 
 and season with a level table-spoonful of salt, half a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, and one table-spoonful of lemon 
 juice. Put a cupful of milk or cream into the frying- 
 pan, and while it is heating, beat together, until light 
 and creamy, one table-spoonful of flour and three of 
 butter. Stir this mixture into the boiling milk. Add 
 the seasoned mutton, and stir the dish until it boils ; 
 then let it boil for three minutes, and after adding two 
 well-beaten eggs, and stirring well, remove from the 
 fire immediately, and turn out upon a platter to cool. 
 Sprinkle a board slightly with crumbs, and when the 
 mixture has become cool, take a dessert-spoonful in the 
 hand and give it a cylindrical shape ; then roll lightly 
 upon the crumbed board. Shape all the mixture in this 
 manner. 
 
 Beat two eggs in a soup-plate until they are thor- 
 oughly broken, but not so long as to make them light. 
 
382 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Spread part of the board thickly with crumbs. Dip the 
 croquettes, one by one, into the beaten eggs, and then 
 roll in the crumbs, being careful that every part is 
 covered. When all have been treated in this way, put a 
 few at a time into the frying-basket, and plunge into 
 boiling fat. Cook until they are a rich brown. The fat 
 should be so hot that two minutes will suffice ; if it be 
 not hot enough when the croquettes are put in, they will 
 crack open. 
 
 If croquettes be desired for breakfast, they may be 
 shaped the previous day, and kept in the ice-chest until 
 the time for frying. Any kind of meat may be used in 
 place of mutton ; and if one like the flavor of onion, a 
 teaspoonful of the juice may be used at the outset, with 
 the other seasoning. 
 
 * Meat-and-Hominy Croquettes. 
 
 Put half a cupful of milk into a frying-pan, and heat 
 to the boiling-point ; then stir into it a cupful of boiled 
 hominy, a cupful of fine-chopped meat, a teaspoonful of 
 salt, an eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper, and two table- 
 spoonfuls of butter. Stir well, and when the mixture 
 begins to boil, add one well-beaten egg. Cook a minute 
 longer, and then spread upon a platter to cool. When 
 cold, shape into little cylinders about three inches long, 
 and after rolling these in beaten egg and then in bread 
 crumbs, fry in fat until brown, say two minutes. 
 All the work except the frying may be done a day in 
 advance. 
 
 Chestnut Croquettes. 
 
 Use fifty Spanish chestnuts, two gills of cream, three 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, one-fourth of a teaspoonful 
 of salt, four eggs, and some sifted bread crumbs for 
 breading the croquette's. 
 
 Shell and blanch the chestnuts. Put them in a stew- 
 pan with enough boiling water to cover them, and boil 
 
ENTRIES. 883 
 
 for thirty minutes. Drain off all the water, and pound 
 the chestnuts in the mortar. When they are very fine, 
 add one table-spoonful of the butter, and continue pound- 
 ing until it is well mixed with the chestnuts. Now add 
 the remainder of the butter and the salt, and pound for 
 ten minutes longer. Add the cream, a little at a time. 
 
 When all the cream has been worked into the chest- 
 nuts, rub the mixture through a puree sieve. Beat three 
 eggs till light, and then beat them into the strained in- 
 gredients. Put the mixture into the double-boiler, and 
 cook for about eight minutes, stirring all the while. It' 
 should be smooth and thick at the end of this time, if 
 the water in the outer boiler has been boiling rapidly all 
 the while. Spread it on a large platter, and set away to 
 cool. When the mixture is cold, butter the hands 
 slightly, and shape the mixture into cylinders, cones, or 
 balls. Bread these with the fourth egg and the fine 
 crumbs. Fry for one minute and a half. Arrange on a 
 warm napkin, and serve at once. 
 
 These are nice with roast turkey or any kind of roasted 
 or broiled poultry. If served by themselves, as an 
 entree, pour Bechamel cream sauce or supreme sauce 
 around them. 
 
 * Sweet-Potato Croquettes. 
 
 For eight croquettes use enough boiled sweet potatoes 
 to make a pint when mashed, half a cupful of hot milk, 
 two generous table-spoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful 
 of salt, two eggs, and some crumbs for breading. 
 
 When the potatoes have been mashed smooth and 
 light, beat into them the hot milk and then the salt and 
 butter. Next beat one egg until light, and beat this 
 into the mixture, which should now be shaped into 
 croquettes. Beat the second egg in a soup-plate. Cover 
 the croquettes with this egg, and roll them in the bread 
 crumbs. Fry in fat till they turn a rich brown. Serve 
 at once. 
 
384 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 These are nice to serve with game. 
 
 If the croquettes be preferred flavored and sweetened, 
 add to the mixture two table-spoonfuls of sugar, a slight 
 grating of nutmeg, and one table-spoonful of lemon 
 juice. The simpler mode is, however, the better, if they 
 are to be an accompaniment of meat or game. When 
 served with a sauce, as an entree, the flavoring and 
 sweetening should be used. 
 
 * Rice Croquettes a la Parmesan. 
 
 For eighteen croquettes use half a cupful of raw rice, 
 three gills of stock, one cupful of strained tomato, three 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, four table-spoonfuls of grated 
 Parmesan cheese, one teaspoonful of salt, one-tenth of a 
 teaspoonful of cayenne, one teaspoonful of onion juice, 
 four eggs, and crumbs for breading. 
 
 Wash the rice, and, putting it in a stew-pan with the 
 stock, boil it for ten minutes. Now add the strained 
 tomato, the onion juice, salt, and cayenne, and cook for 
 twenty minutes longer. 
 
 When the rice has been cooking for half an hour, 
 try a few grains, and if they be tender, add the cheese 
 and two of the eggs, well beaten. Stir for one min- 
 ute, and take from the fire immediately. Spread on a 
 platter, and set away to cool. When cold, shape, and 
 then bread with the remaining two eggs and the crumbs. 
 Fry for one minute and a half. Arrange on a warm 
 napkin, and serve very hot. 
 
 Baked Croquettes. 
 
 The materials are : a pint of fine-chopped cooked meat, 
 any kind will do, one cupful of milk, three table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, one of flour, one level table-spoonful 
 of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, three eggs, one tea- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, and one cupful of dried, 
 pounded, and sifted bread crumbs. 
 
ENTREES. 385 
 
 First beat the three eggs. Mix the seasoning with the 
 chopped meat. Put the milk on the stove in a frying- 
 pan. Mix the flour and butter, and stir the mixture into 
 the milk when it begins to boil. Now add the seasoned 
 meat, and cook for two minutes, being careful to prevent 
 it from burning. At the end of the two minutes add 
 half the beaten eggs. Stir rapidly for five seconds, 
 and take from the fire instantly. Spread on a flat dish, 
 and set away to cool. When the mixture becomes cool, 
 set it on ice, to harden; at the same time cover the 
 remainder of the beaten egg, and put it in a cool place. 
 All this should be done one or two hours before the 
 meal is to be served, that the mixture may have time to 
 get cold and firm. 
 
 When the hour for cooking the croquettes comes, form 
 the mixture into balls or cylinders, using about a table- 
 spoonful for each. Sprinkle a board lightly with crumbs, 
 and roll the croquettes into perfect shapes on it. Next 
 pour the beaten egg into a soup-plate. Lay the cro- 
 quettes in the plate, one at a time, and with a spoon 
 dip up some of the egg mixture and pour it over each 
 croquette. Lift the croquette by slipping a knife under 
 it, and place it on a thick bed of crumbs. Roll it lightly 
 until every part is covered with crumbs; then roll it to a 
 clean part of the board. When all are finished, make the 
 sauce, the receipt for which is given on the next page. 
 
 Butter the bottom of a shallow cake-pan. Put a thin 
 layer of the sauce in the bottom ; then lay the croquettes 
 in the pan, being careful that they do not touch each 
 other. Baste them with the sauce, and then put the pan 
 into a very hot oven. Cook until brown, say for ten 
 minutes. At the end of the first five minutes baste 
 again with the sauce. Serve on a hot dish, with the 
 remaining sauce poured around them. 
 
 If the croquettes are for breakfast, all the work 
 except the baking may be done the day before. These 
 croquettes may be put into a frying-basket instead of 
 
 25 
 
386 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 a pan, and kept in boiling fat for a minute and a half, 
 when they will be found to be perfectly brown and much 
 more creamy than when baked. But people who do not 
 relish fried food, or cannot digest it easily, may find 
 baked croquettes very palatable. 
 
 Brown Sauce for Croquettes. Put two table-spoonfuls 
 of butter into a frying-pan with one slice of onion, one 
 of carrot, one clove, and a bay leaf. Cook all together 
 until the butter begins to turn brown ; then add one 
 table-spoonful of dry flour, and stir until it turns dark 
 brown. Now draw the pan back, and gradually add one 
 generous cupful of stock. Add also a level teaspoonful of 
 salt and one-fifth of a teaspoonful of pepper. Cook for 
 five minutes j then strain, and it will be ready for use. 
 
 Aspic de Foie Gras, 
 
 This should be made in a small round or oval border 
 mould, although any mould will do. For one of the 
 smallest jars of foie gras, use half the rule for aspic 
 jelly, one truffle, and the white of one hard-boiled egg. 
 
 Place the mould in a pan, and surround it with ice and 
 a little water. Pour the liquid jelly into the mould to 
 the depth of half an inch. Let this stand until it 
 hardens ; then decorate it with the white of the egg and 
 the truffle, which have been cut in thin slices and 
 stamped out with fancy vegetable cutters. Moisten 
 these with a little liquid jelly, and let them stand about 
 ten minutes, so that the jelly may harden and hold them 
 in place. Next gently pour in another layer of jelly, 
 about one-fourth of an inch thick ; let this harden. 
 Scrape all the fat from the foie gras, and dip it for 
 half a minute into hot water. Wipe it dry, and cut 
 it in slices and then in pieces about an inch square. 
 Spread a layer of these over the congealed jelly ; cover 
 this with liquid jelly, and wait until the jelly begins to 
 harden before adding the second layer of foie gras. 
 
ENTRIES. 387 
 
 When the second (and last) layer of foie gras has been 
 added, pour over it enough jelly merely to moisten it. 
 When this is firm, cover with the remainder of the 
 liquid jelly. Set away in a cool place for three hours, 
 or longer. At serving-time put the mould into tepid 
 water for about five to eight seconds. Loosen the jelly 
 at the top, and see if it will come away from the sides. 
 Turn on a large flat dish. If a border mould has been 
 used, heap Tartar green sauce in the centre. Garnish 
 the border of the dish with stuffed olives, This is an 
 elegant dish for luncheon or supper. 
 
 Aspic of Chicken. 
 
 Use half the rule for the aspic jelly, a pint and a half 
 of tender cooked chicken, free of fat, skin, and bone, 
 and cut into dice, three slices of the red part of a carrot, 
 cooked, and three of cooked beet, the white of one hard- 
 boiled egg, one teaspoonful of salt, and one-third of a 
 teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
 Prepare the mould as for foie gras, but decorate it 
 with the carrot, beet, and white of the egg. When the 
 layer of jelly, which completely covers the vegetables, is 
 hard, season the chicken with the salt and pepper, and 
 arrange it on top of the jelly, being careful to leave a 
 space of about one-third of an inch between the sides of 
 the mould and the meat. With a spoon sprinkle about 
 a gill of the liquid jelly over the meat, and let it stand 
 about half an hour to harden. At the end of that time 
 pour the remainder of the jelly into the space between 
 the sides of the mould and the meat. Let this stand 
 several hours. 
 
 At serving-time turn on a flat dish, the same as the 
 aspic de foie gras. Fill the centre with a pint and a half 
 of crisp celery, finely shaved, and mixed with three gills of 
 mayonnaise. Be careful not to let a drop fall upon the 
 aspic. Garnish the border with delicate sprays of white 
 
388 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 celery leaves. Lay a star or leaf of red beet on each 
 spray. This decoration gives the needed bit of color ; 
 but care must be taken that the whole arrangement is 
 so light and delicate that it gives an appearance of light- 
 ness rather than weight to the dish. 
 
 Aspic of turkey, grouse, or duck may be prepared in 
 the same manner as chicken. 
 
 Aspic of Sweetbreads. 
 
 Boil three large heart sweetbreads in one quart of con- 
 somme for half an hour. Cool and wipe them. Then 
 proceed exactly as for aspic de foie gras. At serving- 
 time fill the centre of the dish with the celery and may- 
 onnaise, as for chicken. Garnish the dish with stoned 
 olives. 
 
 Aspic of Lobster. 
 
 Prepare this dish in the same manner as aspic of 
 chicken, but use dice cut from the pink meat of the 
 lobster, instead of the vegetables, and the white of an 
 egg for the decorations. Garnish the border of the dish 
 with the delicate heart leaves of lettuce. Place two 
 or three leaves together, and put a dessert-spoonful of 
 mayonnaise in each group of leaves. 
 
 Aspic of Shrimp. 
 
 Shrimp may be prepared and served in aspic in the 
 same way as lobster. 
 
 * Batter for Fruit Fritters. 
 
 Use one cupful of flour, half a cupful of milk, two 
 eggs, one table-spoonful of sugar, one table-spoonful of 
 melted butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and the yellow 
 rind of one-fourth of a lemon, grated. 
 
 Mix the dry ingredients together. Beat the eggs light, 
 and add the milk to them. Pour this on the dry mix- 
 ture, beat well, and add the melted butter. When con- 
 
ENTRIES. 389 
 
 venient, oil is much better than butter in a batter, 
 because it mingles freely with every part of the mixture. 
 Butter congeals slightly unless the mixture is warm, 
 which is not desirable. This batter is very good with 
 only one egg. 
 
 * Apple Fritters. 
 
 Pare and core six large apples. Cut these in round 
 slices about one-third of an inch thick, and lay them in 
 a bowl. Sprinkle over these three table-spoonfuls of 
 sugar, one fourth of a grated nutmeg, and the juice of a 
 lemon. Let them stand for half an hour or more. Four 
 table-spoonfuls of wine may be substituted for the lemon 
 juice, if desired. 
 
 Make the fruit-fritter batter. Dip the slices of apple 
 into it, coating each slice thoroughly. Lift the slices of 
 apple from the batter by passing a fork or skewer 
 through the hole, drop them into the hot fat, and cook 
 for three minutes. As soon as the fritters are done, 
 take them from the fat and drain them on brown paper. 
 Arrange them in a circle on a flat dish, sift powdered 
 sugar over them, and serve very hot. 
 
 * Banana Fritters. 
 
 Pare six bananas. Cut each one in two, and split each 
 half. Put the pieces of banana into a bowl with two 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar and three table-spoonfuls of 
 orange juice or wine, and let this preparation stand for 
 an hour. Make a batter, and cook the same as apple 
 fritters. 
 
 * Orange Fritters. 
 
 Pare the oranges, and with a sharp knife cut them 
 in slices about half an inch thick. Take out the seeds, 
 dip the slices in batter, and fry. Drain, arrange on a 
 warm dish, sprinkle with sugar, and serve hot. 
 
390 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Peach Fritters. 
 
 Peel the peaches, and cut them in quarters. Dip them 
 in batter, and fry. Serve hot, with sugar sprinkled over 
 them. 
 
 Apricot fritters are made in the same way. 
 
 *Pear Fritters. 
 
 Treat ripe pears the same as apples. 'They may be 
 cut in quarters or slices. 
 
 * Grape Fritters. 
 
 Have the grapes in clusters of five or more, and dip 
 them in batter. Fry for one minute and a half. Drain 
 them, and serve, sprinkled with sugar. 
 
 * Pineapple Fritters. 
 
 Pare and slice the pineapple, and cut the slices into 
 small pieces. Treat the same as apple fritters. 
 
 Custard Fritters. 
 
 For the custard use one pint of milk, one gill of sugar, 
 three table-spoonfuls of corn-starch, one table-spoonful 
 of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, two eggs, the grated 
 yellow rind of one lemon, one-eighth of a small nutmeg, 
 grated, and two table-spoonfuls of gelatine. 
 
 Soak the gelatine for two hours in four table-spoonfuls 
 of the milk. Mix the corn-starch with half a cupful of 
 the milk. Put the remainder of the milk, the grated 
 lemon rind and nutmeg, on the fire in the double-boiler. 
 When the milk is hot, add the sugar. Beat the eggs 
 well, and add them to the mixed corn-starch and milk. 
 Add the salt to this mixture, and stir into the boiling 
 milk. Cook six minutes, stirring all the time. Now 
 add the soaked gelatine and the butter. Take from the 
 fire. Butter a shallow cake-pan, and pour the hot mix- 
 
ENTRIES. 391 
 
 ture iiito it. It should be nearly an inch deep when 
 spread in the pan. Place the pan where the mixture 
 will get icy cold. When it is time to fry the fritters, 
 beat two eggs in a soup-plate, and add to them one table- 
 spoonful of sugar, the grated yellow rind of a lemon, 
 and a slight grating of nutmeg. Cut the custard, which 
 will now be firm and smooth, into two-inch squares; 
 cover them with the egg mixture, and roll in fine bread 
 crumbs. When all are breaded, give them a second 
 coating of egg and crumbs. Cover the bottom of the 
 fry ing-basket with the fritters, being careful that they 
 shall not touch each other. Fry in fat so hot that a 
 blue smoke will rise from the centre. Cook for two 
 minutes. Drain on brown paper, arrange on a napkin, 
 sprinkle with sugar, and serve hot. 
 
 Royal Fritters. 
 
 Use one scant pint of sifted flour, half a pint of water, 
 one gill of butter, half a gill of sugar, the grated rind 
 and juice of one orange, and five eggs. 
 
 Put the water, butter, orange juice and rind on the 
 ire, in a large saucepan. Heat the mixture slowly to the 
 boiling-point. When it boils, add the sugar and then the 
 flour, turning in all the flour at once. Beat well with 
 the wooden vegetable-masher, keeping the saucepan on 
 the fire all the while. At the end of three minutes the 
 paste will be cooked enough. Turn it into a bowl, and 
 set away to cool. 
 
 When cold, beat in the eggs, one by one, using the 
 hand instead of a spoon. It will .take about twenty 
 minutes to beat the mixture light. Put a small quantity 
 of the batter into a little pattie-pan, and place in a hot 
 oven for fifteen minutes. If it rises to three or four 
 times its original size, it is beaten enough ; but if not, 
 use a spoon, and beat the mixture for ten minutes longer. 
 Scrape the paste from the sides of the dish, and gather 
 
392 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 it all in the centre of the bowl. Cover with a damp 
 towel, and place in the refrigerator until it is time to 
 cook it. Then drop it by dessert-spoonfuls into hot fat, 
 and cook ten minutes. The fritters will puff up and 
 crack open. 
 
 Or the paste may be rolled into small balls and fried 
 in the same manner. This will give a round and more 
 regular shape than dropping from the spoon. Drain the 
 fritters, arrange them on a fringed napkin, and sprinkle 
 sugar over them. 
 
 Sometimes a clear wine or orange sauce, or a sabayon 
 sauce, is served with these fritters. 
 
 * Corn Fritters. 
 
 These are the necessary materials : half a can of 
 sweet corn, a cupful of flour, half a teaspoonful of sugar 
 one heaping teaspoonful of salt, one fourth of a teaspoon- 
 ful of pepper, one table-spoonful of salad oil, an egg 
 and half a cupful of milk. 
 
 Beat the egg light, and add the milk to it. Pour the 
 mixture upon the flour, and beat well ; then add the salt, 
 pepper, sugar, and oil. Mix thoroughly, and add the 
 corn. Drop the mixture, by table-spoonfuls, into boiling 
 lard, and cook about three minutes. Drain on brown 
 paper, and serve very hot. 
 
 Noukles a la Viennoise. 
 
 For the noukle paste there will be required half a pint 
 of consomme", half a cupful of butter, one scant pint of 
 flour, half a cupful of grated Parmesan cheese, one-eighth 
 of a teaspoonful of cayenne, and three eggs. 
 
 Put the consomme and butter on the fire in a large 
 stew-pan. When the mixture boils, stir in the flour and 
 cayenne, and cook for about three minutes, beating all 
 the while. Add the cheese ; take from the fire, and beat 
 two minutes longer; turn into a bowl, and put P way to 
 
ENTRIES. 393 
 
 cool. When the paste is cool, beat the eggs, one at a 
 time, into it. Beat vigorously for ten minutes. Shape 
 the paste like quenelles, using about a teaspoonful for 
 each one, and lay these on a buttered plate. When all 
 are done, put a pint and a half of consomme into a stew- 
 pan, and when it boils, drop the noukles into it. Boil 
 for twelve minutes, and drain. 
 
 Put three table-spoonfuls of butter into a small sauce- 
 pan, and when it is hot, add three table-spoonfuls of 
 flour. Stir until smooth and frothy ; then gradually add 
 the stock in which the noukles were boiled. Boil this 
 for five minutes, stirring frequently. Taste, to see if it 
 needs salt and pepper ; if it does, add it now. Arrange 
 the noukles in an escalop dish, and pour the sauce over 
 them. Sprinkle two table-spoonfuls of Parmesan cheese 
 over the top. Put in a moderately hot oven, and bake 
 twenty minutes. Serve very hot. 
 
 The noukles may be baked instead of being poached 
 in consomme. When done, place them in an escalop 
 dish, and cover them with any good sauce, Bechamel, 
 white, mushroom, cream, and bisque sauce are all suit- 
 able. Sprinkle with cheese or not, as you please, and 
 bake twenty-five minutes. 
 
 Devils. 
 
 Devils are wet and dry. The dry devil is the more 
 popular. These dishes are usually served at gentlemen's 
 suppers. They must be cooked quickly, and served very 
 hot. All kinds of poultry and game may be prepared in 
 this manner, but for the dry devil there is nothing quite 
 equal to the underdone leg of a tender turkey. The 
 paste described in the rule will give a moderately hot 
 dish. If liked very hot, use more mustard and cay- 
 enne, or, if preferred mild, use less of these condiments. 
 Melted butter may be substituted for the oil where there 
 is objection to the use of oil. 
 
394 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Deviled Turkey Dry. 
 
 For the legs of a roast turkey use two table-spoonfuls 
 of dry mustard, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, 
 one heaping teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of 
 white pepper, three table-spoonfuls of olive oil, three 
 table-spoonfuls of soft butter, and a generous dredging 
 of flour. 
 
 Mix the mustard, pepper, salt, and oil together. Make 
 deep incisions in the turkey legs, cutting in a slanting 
 direction ; spread a thin layer of the paste in each inci- 
 sion. When all the paste has been used, rub the soft 
 butter over the legs, and then dredge thickly with flour. 
 Broil for ten minutes over clear coals. Serve on a hot 
 dish at once. Chickens may be deviled in the same 
 manner. Sometimes both turkey and chickens' wings 
 are deviled in this manner ; but there is not enough meat 
 on them to make them a success in a dry devil. 
 
 Deviled Duck Wet. 
 
 Use a pint and a half of cold roast duck, free of 
 skin, bone, and fat, and cut into handsome pieces, the 
 boiled liver of one duck, one table-spoonful of dry mus- 
 tard, one-tenth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, one generous 
 teaspoonful of salt, two table-spoonfuls of lemon juice, 
 one generous table-spoonful of oil or butter, a slight 
 grating of nutmeg, half a gill of water, one gill of 
 Madeira. 
 
 Mash the liver to a paste in a saucepan. Add the salt, 
 pepper, mustard, and lemon juice to this. Mix well, and 
 gradually add the water. Then add the Madeira and 
 the duck. Grate the nutmeg over this. Place the sauce- 
 pan on the fire, and stir until the contents are hot, which 
 will be in about six minutes. Add the butter, and stir 
 a moment longer ; then turn into a hot dish, and serve 
 instantly. Serve a plate of hot buttered toast with it. 
 
ENTRIES. 395 
 
 To get this dish in perfection it should be cooked on the 
 table in a chafing-dish. In this case prepare the devil 
 in the chafing-dish instead of in the saucepan. Light 
 the lamp after all the guests are seated, and the dish 
 will be done to a turn by the time the toast has been 
 passed. Whether the dish is cooked on the stove or in 
 the chafing-dish, the heat must be moderate ; intense 
 heat would spoil it. 
 
 Broiled Cepes. 
 
 Open the can, and pour off the oil. It is rarely sweet, 
 and therefore is good only for soap-grease. Take out 
 the cepes, and drop them into a bowl of hot water for a 
 moment, to remove the oil. Now wipe them with a soft 
 towel. Season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with 
 lemon juice. Now dip them in melted butter, and then 
 dredge with flour. Broil for six minutes over a hot fire. 
 Place each cepe on a round slice of toast. Put a small 
 bit of butter in the centre of each, and serve at once. 
 
 Stewed Cepes. 
 
 Free the cepes of oil, as when broiling them. Now 
 cut them into cubes. For a pint can of cepes use three 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, one of flour, one of lemon juice, 
 one teaspoonful of salt, one of onion juice, a little 
 pepper, and half a pint of stock. 
 
 Put the butter in a small stew-pan and on the fire. 
 When it becomes hot, add the cepes, and stir for three 
 minutes. Now add the flour, and stir until it is browned. 
 Add the stock, stirring all the time. When this mix- 
 ture boils, add the seasonings, and set back where it will 
 simmer for five minutes. 
 
 This dish may be served as an entree, when the cepes 
 should be arranged on toast ; or it may be used as a 
 garnish of broiled meat or fish. 
 
396 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Olives Stuffed with Chicken. 
 
 Make a force-meat the same as for chicken quenelles. 
 Stone two dozen queen olives. Cover them with cold 
 water, and let them heat slowly to the boiling-point. 
 Now pour off the water, and cover the olives with cold 
 water. After they have stood for two minutes drain 
 them well. Fill them with the force-meat. Place in a 
 small saucepan, and cover with boiling soup stock, con- 
 somme", if you have it. Simmer for twenty minutes. 
 They may be served cold, as a relish, or hot or cold, as a 
 garnish. 
 
 Olives Stuffed with Anchovy. 
 
 Make the rule for anchovy force-meat, and proceed as 
 for olives stuffed with chicken. 
 
 Canapes. 
 
 Canapes are served at dinners, 
 luncheons, suppers, and garden par- 
 ties. They may be served with 
 olives, making a most delicate ap- 
 petizer. They are usually made of 
 some kind of preserved fish and 
 thin strips of fried bread. They 
 should be prepared, arranged, and 
 served in the daintiest manner. 
 
 Anchovy Canapds. 
 
 For twelve canapes use one bottle of anchovies pre- 
 served in oil, one table-spoonful of cold butter, four 
 table-spoonfuls of clarified butter, twelve strips of stale 
 bread cut three inches long, one and a half wide, and 
 about one-fourth of an inch thick, one table-spoonful of 
 lemon juice, one-third of a teaspoonful of cayenne, and 
 two hard-boiled eggs. 
 
ENTRIES. 397 
 
 Free the anchovies of bones. Put four of them into 
 the mortar with one table-spoonful of butter, the lemon 
 juice, and the cayenne, and pound until a smooth paste 
 is formed. 
 
 Fry the bread in the clarified butter until it is of a 
 golden brown color, and when it is cool, spread it with 
 the anchovy paste. 
 
 Cut the remainder of the anchovies into small fillets. 
 Put two fillets on each canape, having them near the 
 edge of the strip of bread. Chop the whites and yolks 
 of the hard-boiled eggs separately and very fine. Fill 
 the space between the fillets with little mounds of egg, 
 alternating with whites and yolks. Arrange the canapes 
 in the centre of a flat dish, and garnish with a circle of 
 olives. 
 
 Smoked Salmon Canapes. 
 
 Make an anchovy paste the same as for anchovy 
 canapes. Fry and cool the bread, and spread with the 
 paste. Put a thin shaving of smoked salmon on each 
 canape. 
 
 Sardine Canapes. 
 
 These are made the same as anchovy canapes, save 
 that a table-spoonful of lemon juice is poured over the 
 fillets before they are placed on the fried bread. 
 
 Caviare Canapes. 
 
 For ten canapes there will be required ten strips of 
 fried bread, ten heaping teaspoonf uls of Kussian caviare, 
 two table-spoonfuls of lemon juice, and half a salt-spoon- 
 ful of cayenne. 
 
 Put the caviare in a soup-plate, and break it up with a 
 fork. Now add the pepper and lemon juice, mixing all 
 well. Put in a cold place until serving-time. 
 
 Fry the strips of bread in clarified butter, and drain 
 and cool them. Spread the caviare on these at serving- 
 time. 
 
398 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 These canapes may be served at the beginning of a 
 dinner or after the soup or fish. They are also served 
 at gentlemen's suppers. In this case, frequently, the 
 caviare, lemon, cayenne, and fried bread are placed 
 before the host, who breaks up the caviare and adds the 
 seasoning to . it, then spreading a little on each strip of 
 bread. This is done only at small suppers and when 
 the host understands how to do the work quickly and 
 gracefully. 
 
 * Scotch Woodcock. 
 
 To provide a quantity sufficient for six persons there 
 will be required five hard-boiled eggs, one table-spoonful 
 of anchovy paste, a grain of cayenne, half a teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, two table-spoonfuls of butter, one table 
 spoonful of flour, one cupful of milk, and six smaL 
 slices of bread. 
 
 Chop the eggs rather fine. Put the milk on to boil. 
 Beat the flour and butter to a cream, in a small sauce- 
 pan ; and when the milk begins to boil, pour it over the 
 mixture of flour and butter. Put the saucepan on the 
 stove, and stir the contents until they begin to boil ; then 
 add the other ingredients, and simmer for three minutes. 
 During the cooking toast the bread, and lay it on a hot 
 dish. Pour the hot mixture upon it, and serve without 
 delay. 
 
 * Anchovy Toast. 
 
 First open a jar of anchovy paste. Cut each of half a 
 dozen slices of light, stale bread into three parts. Put 
 half a cupful of butter into a pan of hot water, and let 
 it stand and melt until sediment falls to the bottom of 
 the cup ; then pour the clear butter into a small frying- 
 pan, and let it heat slowly to the boiling-point. Put the 
 pieces of bread into this butter, and brown them slightly 
 on both sides. Spread the paste on the toast, and serve 
 immediately. 
 
CHEESE DISHES. 399 
 
 CHEESE DISHES. 
 
 * Cheese au Gratin. 
 
 FOR this dish there should be used as many little 
 dishes in which eggs are baked as there are persons to 
 be provided for. If it be inconvenient to use egg-dishes, 
 take any small fancy dishes. The materials required 
 for six persons are: four eggs, one cupful of grated 
 cheese, half a teaspoonful of salt, a grain of cayenne, 
 two level table-spoonfuls of butter, six tea-spoonfuls 
 of fine bread crumbs, and half a cupful of milk. 
 
 First butter the little dishes. Beat the whites of the 
 eggs to a stiff froth, and add the yolks and seasoning to 
 them. When these ingredients are well mixed, add the 
 cheese and then the milk. Pour the mixture into the 
 little dishes, and sprinkle bread crumbs lightly upon 
 the contents of each dish. Bake for eight minutes in a 
 moderate oven. 
 
 These are suitable for a course in a dinner, or for a 
 dish at luncheon or supper. 
 
 Small Cheese Souffles. 
 
 This is the list of ingredients needed : three eggs, one 
 cupful of soft mild cheese, grated, half a teaspoonful 
 of salt, one-tenth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, two level 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, one heaping table-spoonful of 
 flour, and half a cupful of milk. 
 
 Put the butter on the stove in a small frying-pan, and 
 when it gets melted, add the flour. Stir the mixture 
 
400 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 until it is smooth and frothy, but do not let it get 
 browned. Gradually add the milk, and boil for one 
 minute; then add the seasoning and cheese and the 
 yolks of the eggs, beaten well. Pour into a bowl, and 
 set away to cool. When cold, add the whites of the 
 eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and turn the mixture into 
 six buttered paper cases, small coverless boxes made 
 of stiff paper. Place in a shallow pan, and bake in a 
 moderate oven for about twelve minutes. 
 
 * Cheese Fondue. 
 
 When carefully made, this is a most satisfactory dish 
 for a cheese course in a dinner. It is also good for 
 luncheon or supper. The ingredients are : a quarter of a 
 pound of cheese, six eggs, three table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 a level teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth of a teaspoonful 
 of white pepper, and four slices of fried or toasted 
 oread. 
 
 After grating the cheese, beat the eggs till they are 
 light, and add to them the butter, cheese, and seasoning. 
 Turn the mixture into a bright saucepan, and, setting 
 this into another containing boiling water, stir until the 
 cheese is melted and the mixture is smooth and creamy. 
 Cut the bread into eight parts, and lay it upon a hot 
 dish. Pour the fondue over it, and serve immediately. 
 
 * Swiss Ramequin. 
 
 For six persons use eight small slices of stale bread, 
 an egg, a cupful of milk, half a pound of mild soft 
 cheese, half a teaspoonful of salt, a grain of cayenne, 
 and two generous table-spoonfuls of butter. 
 
 Beat the egg well, and add three-fourths of the milk 
 to it. Dip the bread in this mixture, and let it stand on 
 a plate long enough to absorb all the milk and egg. 
 Butter a gratin dish or a platter with one table-spoonful 
 of the butter, and lay the bread upon it. Set the dish 
 
CHEESE DISHES. 401 
 
 where it will keep cool until the time for placing it in 
 the oven. 
 
 Cut the cheese into bits, and put it in a small sauce- 
 pan with the salt, pepper, and remainder of the milk 
 and butter. Set this pan into another containing boiling 
 water, and place the large pan on the stove. Stir the 
 contents of the small basin occasionally until all are 
 melted. 
 
 Meanwhile put the dish of soaked bread into the oven. 
 As soon as the cheese becomes melted, take the bread 
 from the oven, and spread the hot mixture upon it. 
 Return to the oven, and cook for five minutes longer. 
 Serve the ramequin the moment it conies from the oven. 
 It is suitable for a luncheon or supper dish, as well as 
 for a course in a dinner. 
 
 * Toasted Cheese. 
 
 Use half a dozen slices of bread, half a pound of 
 American soft cheese, half a teaspoonful of salt, one- 
 fourth of a cupful of milk, three table-spoonfuls of 
 butter, and one-tenth of a teaspoonf ul of cayenne. 
 
 Cut the cheese in thin slices, -and put it into a sauce- 
 pan with the salt, pepper, milk, and one table-spoonful 
 of the butter. Place this saucepan in another contain- 
 ing boiling water, and cook its contents for about six 
 minutes, stirring frequently. 
 
 While this mixture is cooking, toast the bread and 
 butter it. Spread the hot mixture upon the toast, and 
 place on a hot dish. Heat a small shovel until it is 
 red, and hold it over the dish, to brown the cheese 
 slightly. Serve immediately. 
 
 If one have a salamander, that of course should be 
 used instead of a shovel ; or if there be a gas stove in 
 the house, place the dish under the broiler, and brown 
 the cheese in that way. 
 
 Toasted cheese is a suitable dish for dinner, luncheon, 
 or supper. 
 
402 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Roasted Cheese. 
 
 This is excellent for the cheese course in a dinner, and 
 is also a good dish for either luncheon or supper. It is 
 made of half a dozen slices of bread, a quarter of a pound 
 of cheese, two table-spoonfuls of butter, the yolks of 
 two eggs, one teaspoonful of dry mustard, one-fifth of a 
 teaspoonful of cayenne, and half a teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Break the cheese into bits. Put it into a niortar with 
 the other ingredients (except the bread), and pound all to 
 a smooth paste. Toast the bread, and after spreading 
 it with this mixture, lay it in a pan and put into a hot 
 oven for four minutes. Serve at once. 
 
 Cheese Puffs. 
 
 These are made of two table-spoonfuls of butter, four 
 of flour, four of grated cheese, one cupful of water, half 
 a teaspoonful of salt, one-fifth of a teaspoonful of cay- 
 enne, and two eggs. 
 
 Put the butter and water on the stove in a saucepan. 
 Mix the flour, cheese, salt, and pepper, and stir the mix- 
 ture into the boiling liquid in the saucepan. Cook for 
 three minutes, beating all the while ; then remove from 
 the fire, and set away to cool. When the mixture be- 
 comes cold, add the eggs, unbeaten, and only one at a 
 time. Beat the batter very thoroughly for about a 
 quarter of an hour. 
 
 Butter a baking-pan lightly, and drop the mixture 
 into it, using a heaping teaspoonful for each puff. Leave 
 considerable space between them, as they will increase 
 to about three times their original size. Bake in a mod- 
 erate oven for about twenty minutes. Serve hot. 
 
 These puffs are especially nice for the cheese course 
 in a dinner. Frequently a plain white sauce or a brown 
 sauce is served with them. 
 
CHEESE DISHES. 403 
 
 Cheese Straws. 
 
 Use three heaping table-spoonfuls of sifted flour, three 
 of Parmesan cheese, one of butter, half a saltspoonful 
 of salt, the same quantity of white pepper, one-fourth of 
 a saltspoonful of cayenne, a slight grating of nutmeg, 
 the yolk of an egg, and one table-spoonful of milk. 
 
 Mix the dry ingredients, and add the milk, the yolk, 
 and the butter, softened. Mix well with a spoon ; and 
 when the mass is smooth, divide it into two parts, and 
 roll these very thin. Cut into narrow strips about three 
 inches long, and bake in a very slow oven for fifteen 
 minutes. 
 
 These are designed for serving, hot or cold, as a cheese 
 course, or with lettuce in the salad course. They may 
 be served in bunches of six or eight, each bunch being 
 tied with a narrow ribbon, or may be* piled on a plate in 
 log-cabin style. 
 
 * Golden Buck. 
 
 This is one kind of rare-bit ; and though not so popu- 
 lar as the familiar Welsh rare-bit, it makes a pleasing 
 change for those who are fond of such dishes. 
 
 Beat one egg in a small saucepan. Add to it^ five 
 ounces of soft domestic cheese, broken in small bits, one 
 level table-spoonful of butter, one-third of a teaspoonful 
 of salt, a grain of cayenne, a level teaspoonful of mus- 
 tard, and five table-spoonfuls of milk. Toast five slices 
 of bread, and keep them warm. Put the saucepan con- 
 taining the cheese mixture into another of boiling water, 
 and stir until the cheese is almost creamy. Set the sauce- 
 pan where it will keep warm, yet where its contents will 
 not cook any more. 
 
 Poach, 1 or "drop," ten eggs in boiling salted water. 
 Spread the cheese mixture on the toast, and arrange on a 
 warm dish. Put two poached eggs on each slice of toast. 
 Serve at once. 
 
 1 See page 408 for an explanation of poaching. 
 

 404 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Yorkshire Rare-bit. 
 
 Make the cheese preparation the same as for golden 
 buck. Spread it on four or five slices of toast. Lay a 
 slice of broiled bacon on top of each slice of toast, and 
 serve very hot. 
 
 Beer or ale may be substituted for the milk. In that 
 case use half a cupful. The cheese preparation makes 
 a good Welsh rare-bit. 
 
 * Cottage Cheese. 
 
 Put four quarts of sweet milk into a pan, and let it 
 stand in a warm place long enough to become sour. Care 
 must be exercised to prevent it from becoming too sour. 
 Just as soon as it gets thick it will be ready for use. In 
 summer this may be at the end of twenty-four hours ; 
 in winter, at the end of two or three days. Place the 
 pan of sour milk over a kettle of boiling water, and heat 
 ;t almost to the boiling-point. When the pan has been 
 over the water about six minutes, take a large spoon and 
 turn the milk over by spoonfuls, getting the hot part on 
 top. When the whey has become so hot that it cannot 
 be touched with a finger, turn the entire mass into a 
 colander, and let it drain off. When it is free of whey, 
 add a teaspoonful of salt and a table-spoonful of butter, 
 and press the mixture into a dish of handsome shape, or 
 mould it into balls about the size of hens' eggs. 
 
 It improves the cheese to put in four or five table- 
 spoonfuls of cream with the drained curd, at the time 
 tl\e butter and salt are added. 
 
 * Deviled Biscuit. 
 
 Mix a table-spoonful of Parmesan cheese, one of dry 
 mustard, one of olive oil, half a teaspoonful of salt, one- 
 fifth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, and two table-spoon- 
 fuls of milk, Spread the mixture lightly upon half a 
 
CHEESE DISHES. 405 
 
 dozen soda-biscuit, and toast over a hot fire. Serve 
 immediately. 
 
 If objection be made to the use of oil, substitute a 
 table-spoonful of melted butter. Only a delicate flavor 
 is given to the biscuit by the ingredients named ; and if 
 a strong taste be desired, double the quantity of mate 
 rials for the mixture. 
 
 Cheese Fingers. 
 
 There will be required for these fingers some trim- 
 mings of puff paste, one cupful of grated stale cheese, 
 one-fourth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, half a teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, and one egg. 
 
 Beat the egg well. Eoll the paste very thin, and cut 
 it into strips about four inches long and less than half 
 an inch wide. Mix the salt and pepper with the cheese. 
 Strew the strips of paste with this mixture. Double 
 the paste lengthwise. Pinch the edges, and bake in a 
 quick oven for twelve minutes. Wash over with the 
 beaten egg, and sprinkle with cheese. Return to the 
 oven for about two minutes just long enough to melt 
 the cheese. 
 
 These are served hot as a cheese course in a dinner ; 
 or they may be served with the salad. 
 
406 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 DISHES OF EGGS. 
 
 THROUGHOUT the spring and summer eggs form a 
 large part of the fare at breakfast and luncheon ; and 
 unless they be served in a variety of ways, one may get 
 tired of them. The most healthful modes of preparing 
 them are, of course, those by which they are not sub- 
 jected to a temperature higher than that at which water 
 boils. If they be covered with cold water, and this be 
 heated to the boiling-point without being allowed to boil, 
 the eggs will be tender and digestible, the white yield- 
 ing to pressure like thick cream if taken between the 
 fingers. The result will be the same when the eggs are 
 covered with boiling water and set where the water will 
 keep hot for ten minutes without boiling. 
 
 Another good mode of cooking is to use an egg-boiler. 
 Put the eggs into it, and after filling the remaining space 
 with boiling water, let them stand for three minutes; 
 then pour off the first water, and fill again with boiling 
 water, and in seven minutes the eggs will be cooked as 
 nicely as by either of the first two methods. 
 
 The white of an egg is pure albumen ; and as all albu- 
 men is hardened by a temperature above the boiling- 
 point, we get by the common mode of boiling an egg 
 three or four minutes a substance which is in part very 
 indigestible. 
 
 Dropped, poached, and baked eggs all are good, and so 
 are omelets. Baked eggs are sometimes called shirred 
 eggs, or eggs sur le plat. Dishes are made expressly for 
 cooking eggs in this way, ranging from little ones that 
 will contain only one egg to those in which a dozen can 
 be cooked. 
 
DISHES OF EGGS. 407 
 
 A great variety of flavors can be given to baked eggs. 
 After heating the dish, put into it half a teaspoon ful of 
 butter for each egg that is to be 
 cooked. Carefully break the eggs 
 into the dish, and place in a rather 
 cool oven until the white becomes 
 " set." Serve in the same dish. Two 
 drops of onion juice and a quarter Egg-baker 
 
 of a teaspoonful of chopped parsley 
 will change the flavor of the egg. Or, half a teaspoonful 
 of chopped boiled ham may be sprinkled in the dish 
 before the eggs are put in. Again, it gives a nice change 
 to grate a little cheese into the dish before doing the 
 cooking. 
 
 * Boiled Eggs. 
 
 One ought never to boil eggs. When they are boiled 
 for three minutes they are called " soft boiled," but the 
 fact is that they are not actually soft boiled. A part of 
 the white has been made hard and indigestible, and the 
 rest of the white and the whole yolk have hardly been 
 made hot. An egg properly cooked is not boiled ; it is 
 simply coddled. 
 
 This is the way to cook eggs : Put six into a vessel 
 that will hold two quarts. Fill this vessel with boiling 
 water, and, after covering closely, let it stand in a warm 
 place for ten minutes, the hearth is a good place. By 
 this mode the eggs will be cooked equally well in every 
 part, and the white will be soft and digestible. If one 
 desires them better done, let them stand in the hot water 
 ten, or even twenty, minutes longer ; but do not place 
 them on the range. Serve folded in a napkin. 
 
 * Poached Eggs. 
 
 For six persons use ten eggs, two table-spoonfuls of 
 butter, two level teaspoonfuls of salt, half a cupful of 
 milk, and one-eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
408 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Beat the eggs well, and add to them the salt, pep- 
 per, and milk. Put the butter in a bright saucepan, and 
 place on the stove. When it becomes melted, pour 
 the egg mixture into the saucepan, and set the pan in 
 another containing boiling water. Stir the egg mixture 
 until a thick, creamy mass is formed ; then take from 
 the fire immediately, and serve in a warm dish without 
 delay. 
 
 Poached eggs can be enjoyed in perfection only when 
 the whole mass is smooth and creamy. It is necessary 
 that there should be a constant stirring during the 
 cooking, and that the egg mixture should be turned 
 out of the saucepan the instant it is done. About 
 eight minutes will be needed for cooking a dish for six 
 persons, 
 
 * Dropped or Poached Eggs. 
 
 In New England eggs cooked in the manner described 
 below are called dropped ; outside of New England they 
 are called poached. The eggs must be fresh and cold. 
 Put a quart of water, one teaspoonful of salt, and one of 
 vinegar in a -fry ing-pan. Place in the pan as many 
 muffin rings as there are eggs to be cooked, and set the 
 pan where the water will bubble at one side of the pan. 
 Break the eggs carefully, and drop them into the rings. 
 Should the yolk of an egg break or seem soft, do not use 
 the egg. Cook until the white is set ; then gently pour off 
 the water. Remove the rings, and lift the eggs with an 
 egg-slice or a cake-turner. Place them on slices of 
 buttered toast, and serve at once. 
 
 It is an easy matter to drop eggs if one have a patent 
 poacher. 
 
 Egg Timbales. 
 
 For six persons use half a dozen eggs, three gills of 
 milk, one teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth of a teaspoonful 
 
DISHES OF EGGS. 409 
 
 of pepper, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and one- 
 fourth of a teaspoonful of onion juice. 
 
 Break the eggs into a bowl, and beat them well with a 
 fork; then add the seasoning, and beat for a minute 
 longer. Now add the milk, and stir well. Butter eight 
 timbale moulds of medium size, and pour the mixture 
 into them. Put the moulds in a deep pan, and pour in 
 enough hot water to come almost to the top of the 
 moulds. Place in a moderate oven, and cook until firm 
 in the centre, say for about twenty minutes ; then turn 
 out on a warm dish, and pour a cream or tomato sauce 
 around them. 
 
 This is a nice dish for breakfast, luncheon, or tea. 
 
 * Griddled Eggs. 
 
 Heat the griddle almost as much as for griddle-cakes. 
 Butter it lightly, and place upon it as many eggs as you 
 desire to cook. When they become slightly browned, 
 turn them with a cake-turner. They will get sufficiently 
 cooked in about a minute and a half. 
 
 This is a delicate way of frying eggs. If the griddle 
 be a very smooth one, the buttering may be omitted. 
 
 Lyonnaise Eggs. 
 
 If half a dozen eggs are to be cooked, use also two 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, one of flour, one of chopped 
 onion, three gills of milk, half a teaspoonful of salt, one- 
 eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper, and half a cupful of 
 grated bread crumbs. 
 
 Cook the butter and onion slowly for ten minutes ; 
 then add the flour, and cook until the mixture becomes 
 smooth and frothy, stirring all the while. Gradually 
 add the milk, and cook for three minutes, stirring during 
 the first minute. Add the salt and pepper. Pour the 
 sauce into a deep plate that has been heated for the pur- 
 
410 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 pose. Carefully break the eggs into this plate, and cover 
 them with the bread crumbs. Place in a moderately hot 
 oven, and cook for four minutes. Serve the eggs in the 
 dish in which they are cooked. 
 
 If a strong flavor of onion be disagreeable, the sauce 
 may be strained when it is poured upon the heated plate ; 
 the bits of onion being thus kept back. 
 
 Escaloped Eggs. 
 
 Put half a dozen eggs into a saucepan of boiling water, 
 and keep the pan for half an hour where it will be hot, 
 yet not where the water will boil. At the end of the 
 prescribed time lay the eggs in cold water for five min- 
 utes, and then remove their shells. Cut the whites into 
 thin slices, and rub the yolks through a coarse sieve. 
 Mix both parts lightly, and after putting the mixture 
 into an escalop dish, pour over it a sauce made as 
 follows : 
 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of butter into a frying-pan, 
 and when it has been melted, add a heaping table-spoon- 
 ful of flour. Stir until the mixture is smooth and frothy ; 
 then gradually add a pint of cold milk. Boil up once, 
 and season with salt and pepper. 
 
 After pouring this sauce over the eggs, spread a large 
 cupful of grated bread crumbs on top of the dish, and 
 cook for fifteen minutes in a hot oven. 
 
 If care be taken to prevent the eggs from boiling at 
 any time during the thirty minutes the dish will be 
 delicate and digestible. 
 
 * Curried Eggs. 
 
 Beside half a dozen hard-boiled eggs, take a cupful of 
 stock, half a cupful of cream or milk, one teaspoon ful of 
 chopped onion, three table -spoonfuls of butter, one table- 
 spoonful of flour, one teaspoonful of curry-powder, and 
 salt and pepper to suit the taste. 
 
DISHES OF EGGS. 411 
 
 After cooking the onion and butter in a small frying- 
 pan for three minutes, put in the flour and curry-powder. 
 Stir the liquid until it becomes smooth ; then add the 
 stock and milk and some seasoning, and cook for ten 
 minutes. Quarter the eggs, and place them in a deep 
 saucepan. Strain the sauce over them ; and after sim- 
 mering for three minutes, serve very hot with toast. 
 
 The teaspoonful of curry-powder gives a delicate flavor. 
 More may be used if one choose. 
 
 Cook six eggs for twenty minutes, as directed for boil- 
 ing. While the eggs are boiling, prepare the sauce. 
 
 Rub the bottom of a small frying-pan with a slice of 
 onion. Put one gill of stock into the pan, and place it 
 on the fire. Mix one teaspoonful of corn-starch and one- 
 fourth of a teaspoonful of curry-powder with one gill of 
 milk. Stir this into the boiling stock. Add one-third 
 of a teaspoonful of salt and a little pepper. Simmer for 
 5ve minutes ; then add a teaspoonful of butter. 
 
 When the eggs are cooked, drop them into cold water 
 for a minute. Remove the shells, and cut the eggs in 
 quarters. Arrange them in a warm dish, and pour the 
 sauce over them. 
 
 This curry is more delicate than the first. 
 
 * Baked Eggs. 
 
 For six people use eight eggs, one cupful of milk, one 
 generous table-spoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of 
 flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoon- 
 ful of pepper, and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. 
 
 Put the butter on the stove in a small frying-pan, and 
 when it becomes melted, put in the flour. Stir the mix- 
 ture until it is smooth and frothy ; then draw the pan 
 back, and gradually add the cold milk. Next add the 
 seasoning ; and after letting the sauce boil up once, pour 
 it into one of those deep plates which are made expressly 
 
412 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 for baking eggs ; or if you do not possess one, use a 
 deep earthen pie-plate. 
 
 Break the eggs carefully, and drop them into the sauce. 
 Sprinkle the chopped parsley over the eggs and sauce. 
 Place the dish in a moderate oven, and cook until the 
 whites become set, perhaps for five minutes. Serve 
 the eggs immediately in the dish in which they are 
 cooked. 
 
 If the parsley be not liked, it may be omitted ; and if 
 cheese be liked, a table-spoonful of Parmesan cheese, 
 instead of the parsley, may be sprinkled over the eggs. 
 
 After buttering the bottom of an egg-dish or a soup- 
 plate, break the eggs into the plate, being careful not 
 to break the yolks. After sprinkling them lightly with 
 salt and pepper, put bits of butter over them, and cover 
 with milk or cream, using one-fourth of a teaspoonfui 
 of butter and one table-spoonful of milk or cream for 
 each egg. Put the dish into a moderate oven, and cook 
 until the whites of the eggs begin to set, say about 
 six minutes. Serve at once, in the dish in which the 
 baking is done. 
 
 * Swiss Eggs. 
 
 To make this dish, one must take half a dozen eggs, a 
 quarter of a pound of cheese, one-third of a cupful of 
 cream, two table-spoonfuls of butter, a teaspoonfui of 
 mustard, half a teaspoonfui of salt, and one-tenth of a 
 teaspoonfui of cayenne. 
 
 Cut the cheese into thin shavings. Butter an egg-dish 
 or a gratin-dish (if you have neither, use a small stone- 
 china platter), and spread the cheese in it. Upon the 
 cheese distribute in small portions the remainder of the 
 butter. Mix the salt, cayenne, mustard, and cream, and 
 pour half of the mixture over the cheese. Break the eggs 
 
DISHES OF EGGS. 413 
 
 into the dish, and after pouring over them the remaining 
 liquid, place in an oven, and cook for eight minutes. 
 
 * Spanish Eggs. 
 
 For this dish there will be required six eggs, one large 
 raw tomato, one generous table-spoonful of butter, one 
 level teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoon ful of 
 pepper, and a slice of onion. 
 
 Eub a slice of onion over the inside of a frying-pan. 
 Pare the tomato, and cut it into bits ; then put it into 
 the frying-pan, with the butter, and cook for five min- 
 utes, stirring occasionally. Beat the eggs well, and at 
 the end of the five minutes put them into the pan, with 
 the salt and pepper. Stir constantly until the eggs 
 begin to thicken, like scrambled eggs; then pour the 
 mixture into a warm dish,- and serve at once. 
 
 Spanish eggs are a good dish for breakfast, tea, or 
 luncheon. 
 
 * Cuban Eggs. 
 
 For six persons use eight eggs, one teaspoonful of 
 minced onion, four table-spoonfuls of sausage meat, half 
 a teaspoonful of salt, and one-eighth of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper. 
 
 Cook the sausage meat and onion together over a hot 
 fire for five minutes. Beat the eggs well, and add to 
 them the salt and pepper. Draw the pan back to a 
 cooler part of the range, and add the beaten eggs. Stir 
 until the eggs become thick and creamy ; then pour into 
 a warm dish, and serve immediately. 
 
 Buttered toast should go with the dish. It may be 
 arranged on a flat dish, and the eggs be poured over it. 
 
 Eggs in Force-meat. 
 
 Take for six persons four eggs, a cupful of grated bread 
 crumbs, a eupful of any kind of fine-chopped cold meat, 
 
414 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 three gills of soup stock, two table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 one heaping teaspoonful of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, 
 one-third of a teaspoonful of pepper, a slice of onion, 
 half a teaspoonful of lemon juice, a clove, a bay leaf, a 
 sprig of parsley, and a slight grating of nutmeg. 
 
 Boil the eggs hard ; then remove the shells, and cut 
 the eggs in two. Eub the yolks through a sieve or coarse 
 strainer. Rub the flour and butter together ; and after 
 adding the stock and seasoning, cook gently for twelve 
 minutes. Mix the bread crumbs and chopped meat ; and 
 when the sauce has cooked for twelve minutes, strain it 
 upon this mixture. Fill the whites of the eggs with this 
 mixture, and spread the remainder on a gratin-dish or 
 a small platter. Stand the filled eggs in this bed of 
 force-meat, and decorate both them and the bed with 
 little mounds of the sifted yolks. Put the dish into a 
 moderate oven for eight minutes ; then remove it, and 
 pour half a pint of tomato sauce upon the dish, or 
 serve the sauce in a separate dish. Bechamel sauce 
 or a simple brown sauce may be used, if preferred to 
 tomato. 
 
 This is a nice dish for luncheon. 
 
 * Eggs au Gratin. 
 
 The materials needed to provide a dish for six persons 
 are : half a dozen eggs, as many small slices of bread, 
 a pint of cream sauce, a cupful of bread crumbs, a table- 
 spoonful of butter, and some salt and pepper. 
 
 Put the eggs into a deep saucepan, and cover them 
 with boiling water. Cover the pan, and set it on the 
 stove where the water will keep warm for twenty minutes 
 without any likelihood of its boiling. 
 
 Make a sauce the same as for eggs farce. Toast the 
 bread to a delicate brown. Put the butter on the stove 
 in a small frying-pan, and when it gets hot, put in the 
 crumbs. Stir over a hot fire until they get brown and 
 crisp ; then remove the pan. 
 
DISHES OF EGGS. 415 
 
 Transfer the eggs from hot to cold water at the end 
 of the twenty minutes, and in a moment remove the 
 shells. Put the slices of toast on a gratin-dish or on a 
 stone-china platter, and place a whole egg on each slice 
 of toast. Pour the sauce over the eggs, and sprinkle 
 with the fried crumbs. Set in a moderate oven for six 
 minutes, and serve without change of dish, adding a 
 delicate garnish of parsley. 
 
 * Egg Nests on Toast. 
 
 For six nests use half a dozen eggs, half a teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, one table-spoonful and a half of butter, 
 and six small slices of toast. Separate the two parts 
 of the eggs, putting the whites into a bowl and keep- 
 ing the yolks whole by letting them remain in the half- 
 shells until the time comes for using them. Put the 
 salt with the whites, and beat until a stiff froth is 
 formed. Toast the bread ; and after dipping the edges 
 in hot water, spread the slices with butter, and place 
 them on a tin sheet or pan. Heap the whites of the 
 eggs on the toast. Make a depression in the centre of 
 each mound, and after putting one-fourth of a teaspoon- 
 ful of butter in each depression, drop the whole yolks 
 into the hollows. Place the nests in a moderate oven, 
 and cook for three minutes. Serve immediately on a 
 warm dish. 
 
 If ham be liked, a spoonful of it, chopped fine, may 
 be spread on each slice of toast before the white of an 
 egg is placed on it. 
 
 Eggs Farc6. 
 
 Use for six persons half a dozen eggs, one table-spoon- 
 ful of flour, three of butter, one pint of milk, three drops 
 of onion juice, and some salt and pepper. 
 
 Boil the eggs for twenty minutes, and then drop them 
 into cold water. Remove the shells, and after cutting an 
 
416 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 even slice from each end of the egg, cut the eggs in two. 
 Take out the yolks, and mash them until light and 
 smooth ; then add one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, 
 half a teaspoonful of salt, one table-spoonful of butter, 
 four of milk, and the onion juice. When these in- 
 gredients have been well mixed, heap the mixture in 
 the shape of domes in the halves of the whites. Set 
 the whites in a tin plate or pan, and put them into the 
 oven for six minutes. 
 
 During this cooking make a sauce. Put the remain- 
 ing table-spoonful of butter into' a small frying-pan, and 
 when it gets hot, add the flour. Stir until smooth and 
 frothy, being careful not to brown ; then gradually add 
 the milk. Season with salt and pepper, and boil up 
 once. 
 
 When the eggs have been cooked sufficiently, arrange 
 shem on a warm dish, pour the sauce around them, and 
 garnish with parsley. 
 
 Bechamel, tomato, or curry sauce may be used in place 
 of the cream sauce recommended. 
 
 * Eggs in Cases. 
 
 If provision is to be made for six persons, use half a 
 dozen eggs, a table-spoonful of butter, one-third of a tea- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, three table-spoonfuls of 
 fine dry bread crumbs, one teaspoonful of salt, and one- 
 fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper. You will also need 
 half a dozen paper cases. In large cities these may be 
 bought, in a variety of shapes, of first-class confectioners ; 
 but it is not a difficult matter to make them if they can- 
 not easily be obtained. They should be formed of stiff 
 white paper, and have a length of about three inches, 
 a width of two inches, and a depth of an inch and a 
 half. 
 
 Butter the cases, using a little extra butter for the 
 purpose. Put two-thirds of the table-spoonful of butter 
 
DISHES OF EGGS. 417 
 
 into a small frying-pan, and when it gets hot, stir in the 
 crumbs. Stir over a hot fire until the crumbs get brown 
 and crisp, being careful not to let them become scorched ; 
 then take from the fire, and add to them the salt and 
 pepper and the chopped parsley. Deposit this mixture 
 in equal parts in the six paper cases. Break an egg. into 
 each case, and put the remaining butter, broken into bits, 
 upon the eggs. Set the cases in a tin pan, and bake for 
 five minutes in a moderate oven. Serve on a fringed 
 napkin. 
 
 Small china souffle* dishes may be used for these eggs. 
 
 OMELETS. 
 
 In no form in which eggs are cooked are they more 
 acceptable than in an omelet. Nothing can be simpler 
 than the preparation of an omelet when all the condi- 
 tions are right, yet few succeed in cooking this simple 
 dish to perfection. There must be a very hot fire ; and a 
 smooth, light pan, with a long handle, also is required. 
 The eggs should be beaten only enough to break them 
 well ; there should never be much froth. If the eggs be 
 beaten light, the omelet will be dry and tasteless. A 
 perfect omelet usually is soft and creamy. There are a 
 few exceptions to this rule : rum, jelly, or fruit omelets 
 should be made rather light. 
 
 One of the first things the beginner should learn is 
 how to shake the pan. Here is a good way to learn. 
 Spread a newspaper on the kitchen table. Put ; couple 
 of spoonfuls of granulated sugar in the omelet pai. and 
 place the pan on the paper. Now take hold of the pan, 
 putting the hand under the handle, and shake vigorously. 
 The motion must be quick and nervous, and such that 
 the sugar in the pan will be thrown up from the bottom 
 of the pan. It is the same motion that one uses in 
 popping corn, being almost wholly from the wrist. A 
 little practice is all that is needed to acquire it ; and one 
 
 27 
 
418 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 cannot make a perfect omelet without this motion. Per- 
 sist until the sugar is thrown from the bottom of the 
 pan with every shake. 
 
 Having mastered the motion, the next thing to do is 
 to see that the pan is all right. It must be perfectly 
 
 Rolling an Omelet. 
 
 smooth. If not so, scour it with Sapolio, wash in hot 
 water, and rub it smooth and dry with a soft towel. 
 Put the butter in the pan, and place on the fire where it 
 will heat gradually. When quite warm, place on the 
 hottest part of the stove. Pour the egg mixture into 
 the pan, and shake until the whole mass is about as 
 thick as soft custard. The egg mixture should be thrown 
 
DISHES OF EGGS. 
 
 419 
 
 from the bottom of the pan with every shake. Let the 
 
 pan rest for about five seconds ; then place the left 
 
 hand under the handle, and tip the pan forward. With a 
 
 knife, roll the omelet in the same direction. Let it rest 
 
 on the fire for about 
 
 fifteen seconds. 
 Take a warm dish 
 
 in the left hand. 
 
 Put the right hand 
 
 under the handle of 
 
 the omelet pan, and 
 
 place the edge of the 
 
 pan nearly in the 
 
 centre of the dish. 
 
 Turn out the omelet 
 
 in the centre of the 
 
 dish, and serve at 
 
 once. It may take 
 
 many trials before 
 
 the beginner makes 
 
 a success of an ome- 
 let, but the success 
 
 will come. A small 
 
 pan, and two eggs at 
 
 a time, will do for 
 
 practice. 
 
 Many failures come from having too much egg in the 
 
 pan. When this is the case, one part becomes hard 
 
 before the other 
 is warmed. The 
 egg mixture 
 should be not 
 more than half 
 
 an inch deep in 
 The Omelet when Finished. . , ., . , 
 
 the pan ; it is bet- 
 ter to have it even less. All the work must be done 
 very rapidly. It should be not more than two minutes 
 
 How to Turn out an Omelet. 
 
420 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 from the time the eggs are poured into the hot pan 
 until the omelet is on its way to the table. 
 
 It would be better to have any guests wait for two 
 minutes for a perfect omelet than to have the omelet 
 done a minute before it is served, and better to send 
 several small omelets to the table than to make only 
 one, and have that large. 
 
 Make yourself familiar with a receipt at the start, so 
 that there will be no delay at any stage of the work or 
 in the serving. 
 
 * Plain Omelet. 
 
 Beat four eggs until well broken, but not until very 
 light. Add to them half a teaspoonful of salt and two 
 table-spoonfuls of milk or water. Put one table-spoonful 
 of butter in the omelet pan, ancl place the pan where it 
 will heat slowly. When it becomes hot, draw it forward 
 where the heat is intense. Pour in the egg mixture, and 
 shake vigorously until the egg begins to thicken. Let 
 the pan rest on the stove for about five seconds ; then 
 roll up the omelet. When rolled, brown it. It will take 
 about fifteen seconds for this. Turn out, and serve at 
 once. 
 
 * Baked Omelet. 
 
 For six persons use half a dozen eggs, half a cupful of 
 milk, one table-spoonful of flour, one teaspoonful of 
 baking-powder, one large teaspoonful of salt, and one 
 generous table-spoonful of butter. 
 
 Mix the milk and flour. Beat the whites of the eggs 
 to a stiff froth. Add the salt and the yolks of the eggs to 
 them, and beat for half a minute longer. Now put the 
 butter in a hot frying-pan. Add the milk and flour and 
 baking-powder to the eggs, and stir quickly. Turn the 
 mixture into the buttered pan, and put the pan in a rather 
 hot oven for ten minutes. At the end of that time fold 
 
DISHES OF EGGS. 421 
 
 the omelet and turn it out on a warm dish. Serve with- 
 out a moment's delay. 
 
 Beat the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth. Beat the 
 yolks well, and add a teaspoonful of salt and a quarter 
 of a cupful of milk. Stir well, and then add the beaten 
 whites. Put a table-spoonful of butter into a hot frying- 
 pan, and as soon as it has become melted, pour the mix- 
 ture into the pan. Place in a moderate oven, and bake 
 for six minutes; then remove, and after folding, turn 
 out on a hot dish. Serve immediately. 
 
 A variation is to spread over the omelet, just before 
 folding, a pint of chicken warmed in a pint of cream 
 sauce, or any kind of meat or fish, cut fine and heated 
 in sauce. Or, heat a pint of oysters to the boiling-point 
 in their own liquor. Skim carefully, and then stir in 
 with them a large table-spoonful of butter mixed with a 
 level table-spoonful of flour. Season with salt and pep- 
 per, and after boiling up once, spread over the omelet. 
 
 Green-Pea Omelet. 
 
 If provision is to be made for six persons, use four 
 eggs, two table-spoonfuls of butter, four of cream or 
 three of milk, two of water, one teaspoonful of salt, one- 
 fifth of a teaspoonful of pepper, half a teaspoonful of 
 sugar, one teaspoonful of flour, and half a pint of green 
 or canned peas. 
 
 Kinse and drain the peas. Put a table-spoonful of 
 butter into a small stew-pan, and when it becomes melted, 
 add the flour. Stir the mixture until it is smooth and 
 frothy ; then add the peas, sugar, pepper, and half the 
 salt. Stir for two minutes, and after adding the cream 
 or milk, set the pan where its contents will simmer for 
 six minutes. 
 
422 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Meanwhile heat an omelet pan, and wipe it perfectly 
 clean and dry, rubbing the inside with a dry towel until 
 it is very smooth. Set this pan on the back part of the 
 range where it will keep rather hot while the eggs are 
 being beaten. 
 
 Break the eggs into a bowl, and beat them well, though 
 not to a dry froth. Add the water and the remainder of 
 the salt. Put the butter into the omelet pan, and set 
 the pan on the hottest part of the range. When all the 
 butter has become melted and is just about to turn in 
 color, put the eggs into the pan. Shake vigorously until 
 the mixture begins to look thick and creamy. Let the 
 pan remain still for two seconds, as nearly as it can be 
 estimated, and then spread the peas over the egg. Tip 
 the pan forward from the handle, and roll the omelet in 
 the same direction. Turn out on a warm dish, and serve 
 immediately. 
 
 Asparagus may be used in an omelet the same as peas. 
 Only the green heads should be taken, and they should 
 be boiled, drained, and seasoned. 
 
 Fish Omelet. 
 
 This is a very savory dish. The materials used are : 
 six large smelts, four eggs, four table-spoonfuls of milk, 
 two table-spoonfuls and a half of butter, one table-spoon- 
 ful of chopped chives, half a teaspoonful of chopped 
 parsley, a generous teaspoonful of salt, and a little pep- 
 per. If it be inconvenient to use chives, substitute half 
 a teaspoonful of chopped onion ; and if smelts cannot be 
 had, take any other delicate kind of fish containing roe, 
 flounders, or any pan fish. There should be about a 
 quarter of a pound of clear fish. 
 
 Free the flesh of the smelts of skin and bones, and cut 
 it, together with the roe, into fine pieces. Put a table- 
 spoonful and a half of the butter into a frying-pan or 
 stew-pan, and when it has become melted, add the fish, 
 
DISHES OF EGGS. 423 
 
 chives, parsley, three-fourths of the salt, and all the 
 pepper. Cook slowly for five minutes, and then add two 
 table-spoonfuls of the milk. Let the mixture boil up 
 once, and set it back where it will keep warm until 
 needed. 
 
 Beat the four eggs till rather light, and add the re- 
 mainder of the milk and salt. Put the remaining butter 
 into a large omelet-pan or frying-pan ; and as soon as it 
 becomes very hot, a moment's heating should suffice, 
 pour in the egg mixture. Shake vigorously over the fire 
 until the mixture begins to thicken ; then spread the fish 
 upon it. Roll up the omelet, and, turning out on a hot 
 dish, serve immediately. 
 
 From the time of putting the eggs into the pan until 
 the omelet is finished, the work must be done very 
 rapidly. 
 
 Mushroom Omelet. 
 
 To those persons who like omelets of any sort, and are 
 fond of the peculiar flavor of mushrooms, this dish should 
 give much satisfaction. It is made of four eggs, two 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, four table-spoonfuls of chopped 
 mushrooms, a generous half-table-spoonful of flour, two- 
 thirds of a cupful of stock, a little water, and enough 
 pepper and salt for seasoning to suit the taste of the 
 maker. 
 
 Put a table-spoonful of the butter on the stove in a 
 frying-pan, and when it gets hot, add the flour. Stir 
 until smooth and brown. Gradually add the stock ; and 
 after boiling up once, add the mushrooms. Season with 
 salt and pepper, and simmer for five minutes. 
 
 Beat the eggs till rather light, and add to them half a 
 teaspoonful of salt and one table-spoonful of water. Put 
 a table-spoonful of butter into a warm omelet-pan, and 
 set in a hot place. As soon as the butter becomes very 
 hot, put in the beaten eggs, and shake vigorously until 
 they begin to thicken. Spread the mushrooms and about 
 
424 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 half of the sauce upon the mixture, and then fold the 
 omelet, and turn out on a hot dish. Pour the remainder 
 of the sauce around it, and serve immediately. 
 
 Not more than a minute and a half should be consumed 
 in work from the time of pouring the eggs into the pan 
 until the omelet is finished. 
 
 Tomato Omelet. 
 
 Put a pint of canned or stewed tomato into an open 
 stew-pan, and let it simmer for half an hour. Season 
 with salt and pepper, and a table-spoonful of butter. 
 Beat six eggs well, and add to them a level teaspoonful 
 of salt and three table-spoonfuls of water. Put a gener- 
 ous table-spoonful of butter into a large omelet-pan or 
 frying-pan, and when it becomes white and frothy, pour 
 the eggs into it. Shake over a very hot fire until the 
 eggs begin to thicken and look creamy ; then pour in 
 the hot tomato, spreading it over the middle of the 
 omelet. Eoll up quickly, and after browning for an in- 
 stant, turn out on a warm dish and serve immediately. 
 
 First make the egg preparation, as for the green-pea 
 omelet, but do not cook it. Next put a cupful of canned 
 tomatoes into a stew-pan, and cook for ten minutes. Put 
 a table-spoonful of butter on the stove in a small frying- 
 pan, and when it gets hot, add half a table-spoonful of 
 flour. Stir the mixture until smooth and frothy ; then 
 add it to the tomatoes, and also add half a teaspoonful 
 of salt, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and one-fifth of a 
 teaspoonful of pepper. Cook for five minutes longer. 
 Now cook the eggs until thick and creamy. Spread the 
 tomato over the cooked egg ; then roll up, and serve at 
 once. These omelets are nice for breakfast or luncheon. 
 
 Oysters, cheese, chicken, ham, and, indeed, nearly all 
 kinds of meat and fish, may be used in the same way a^ 
 
DISHES OF EGGS. 
 
 425 
 
 tomato. When meat or fish is used it should first be 
 heated in a little sauce. Cheese is simply grated and 
 sprinkled over the omelet just before the rolling. 
 
 Jelly Omelet. 
 
 Use half a dozen eggs, a table-spoonful of butter, a 
 table-spoonful of powdered sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, 
 three table-spoonfuls of water, and half a tumbler of 
 any kind of jelly, currant is best. 
 
 Break up the jelly, so that it can be spread easily. 
 Beat the whites of the eggs until very light ; then add 
 the unbeaten yolks, the sugar and salt. After blending 
 these ingredients, add the water. Heat a large frying- 
 pan, and after melting the butter in it, pour in the egg 
 mixture. Bake in a hot oven for six minutes; then 
 spread with the jelly, roll up, and turn out upon a warm 
 dish. Serve immediately. 
 
426 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 SALADS. 
 
 SALADS are made with any kind of fish and meat, com- 
 bined with various green vegetables; or they may be 
 made of a single vegetable with a sauce. Several vege- 
 tables may be combined, and dressed with a simple sauce 
 or a Mayonnaise sauce; or cooked vegetables may be 
 served, alone or in combination, using a simple dressing 
 or a Mayonnaise. The important things to remember 
 in salad-making are that the materials should be of the 
 best quality, the green vegetables crisp and fresh, the 
 meat or fish well seasoned and cold, the oil pure and 
 sweet, and that in most cases the dressing should be added 
 at the last moment. 
 
 There are many kinds of salad-dressing. The Mayon- 
 naise is the cream of all yet invented. Even people who 
 dislike oil, as a rule, find this by far the most delicate 
 dressing made. Some cooks think that a Mayonnaise 
 is ruined if there be mustard and sugar in it. Others 
 condemn the use of cream. These are matters of taste, 
 and individuals have a perfect right to exercise their 
 own judgment in the matter. One cupful of whipped 
 cream added to one pint of Mayonnaise will so tone the 
 flavor of the oil that people who cannot eat a salad when 
 made with the ordinary Mayonnaise will enjoy it when 
 this slight addition is made. Again, some persons use 
 no acid but lemon juice, whereas others would not have 
 a drop of lemon juice mixed with a Mayonnaise. It 
 seems as if at least one-half of the salad-eating people 
 in America do not like the taste of oil. If they choose 
 to tone it down with cream there is no law against it. 
 
SALADS. 427 
 
 A rule for cream-dressing is given on page 428 for the 
 benefit of those who will not use oil. 
 
 The simple French dressing which is used with so many 
 vegetable salads is, like the Mayonnaise, subject to modi- 
 fications to suit various tastes. The proportions may 
 be six table-spoonfuls of oil to one of vinegar ; or the 
 quantity of vinegar may be twice that of oil. A good 
 rule is to take six table-spoonfuls of oil, two of vinegar, 
 half a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper. 
 Mix the oil, salt, and pepper together; then add the 
 vinegar. 
 
 Mayonnaise Dressing. 
 
 For one pint of dressing use three gills of oil, the 
 yolks of two uncooked eggs, one teaspoonful of mustard, 
 half a teaspoonful of salt, two table-spoonfuls of lemon 
 juice, two of vinegar, one-tenth of a teaspoonful of cay- 
 enne, and four table-spoonfuls of thick sweet cream. 
 
 In order to succeed in making a Mayonnaise dressing, 
 it is necessary to have all the materials cold. Let the 
 oil stand in the refrigerator for an hour or more before 
 using it. Set a small smooth-bottomed bowl in a shallow 
 dish, and put a few pieces of ice and a pint of cold water 
 in this dish. Put the dry ingredients and the yolks of 
 the eggs in the bowl, and beat them with the Dover- 
 beater until the mixture is light and thick. TSTow begin 
 to add the oil, a few drops at a time. Each time the oil 
 is added, beat until it is thoroughly blended with the 
 other ingredients. As soon as the mixture becomes 
 thick and ropy the oil may be added more freely. Begin- 
 ning at this stage, the vinegar may be added, half a tea- 
 spoonful at a time. When the dressing gets so thick 
 that the beater will hardly turn, the oil may be added 
 in larger quantities, about a table-spoonful at a time. 
 As soon as all the vinegar has been added, begin to 
 add the lemon juice in the same manner. When the 
 dressing is light and smooth, whip the cream with a 
 
428 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 fork, and stir it into the dressing. Where the taste of 
 oil is liked the cream may be omitted ; the cream tones 
 down the flavor of oil. On the other hand, when oil is 
 not liked, less of it may be used, thick whipped cream 
 being substituted. For most tastes, however, the dress- 
 ing as it is given will be found satisfactory. 
 
 * Cream Salad Dressing. 
 
 Use one pint of rich cream, the yolks of three hard- 
 boiled eggs, one teaspoonful of sugar, one of salt, one- 
 eighth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, one teaspoonful of 
 mustard, and two table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Rub the 
 yolks of the eggs to a smooth paste. Gradually add to 
 them the salt, sugar, vinegar, and mustard. Have the 
 cream very cold, and whip it until smooth and light. 
 Use the Dover-beater or a whisk. Stir this, a spoonful 
 at a time, into the egg mixture. Use this dressing the 
 same as Mayonnaise. 
 
 * Cooked Salad Dressing. 
 
 This is made of four eggs, eight table-spoonfuls of 
 weak vinegar, four of oil, one teaspoonful of salt, one- 
 fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, and two table-spoon- 
 fuls of mixed mustard. 
 
 Put the oil and vinegar into a small saucepan, and set 
 this pan into another containing boiling water. Beat 
 the eggs well, and pour the hot oil and vinegar upon 
 them, stirring all the while. Turn the mixture into the 
 stew-pan, and set the pan in the boiling water once more. 
 Stir the dressing until it begins to thicken, say for 
 about five minutes ; then take it from the fire, and add 
 the salt, pepper, and mustard. If the dressing should 
 not be smooth, rub it through a strainer ; but if it has 
 been stirred constantly, there will be no occasion for 
 straining. 
 
 This dressing will keep for weeks. Butter may be 
 substituted for oil, but it is not BO good. 
 
SALADS. 429 
 
 Chicken Salad. 
 
 Free cold cooked chicken of skin, fat, and bones, and 
 cut it in cubes. Put one quart of the meat in a bowl 
 with a marinade made by mixing three table-spoonfuls 
 of vinegar, one of oil, one generous teaspoonful of salt, 
 and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Stir well, and place 
 in the refrigerator for one hour or longer. 
 
 Cut in thin slices enough of the white, tender part of 
 celery to make a generous pint. Wash this in cold 
 water, and put it in the refrigerator with pieces of ice 
 on top. At serving-time remove the ice, and drain all 
 the water from the celery. Mix the celery with the 
 chicken, and add half a pint of Mayonnaise dressing. 
 Arrange the salad in a bowl or on a flat dish. Mask it 
 with half a pint of Mayonnaise, and garnish with some 
 of the blanched celery leaves. 
 
 Sweetbread Salad. 
 
 For six persons use a pair of large sweetbreads, half a 
 pint of celery, sliced thin, six heart leaves of lettuce, 
 half a pint of Mayonnaise, one table-spoonful of vinegar, 
 half a table-spoonful of oil, a saltspoonful of salt, and 
 one-third of a saltspoonful of pepper. 
 
 Clean the sweetbreads, and boil them in water for 
 twenty minutes ; then cool them, and cut them into 
 cubes. Add the vinegar, oil, salt, and pepper. Place 
 the dish in the refrigerator for an hour. Prepare the 
 lettuce and celery, and put them in the refrigerator to 
 chill. 
 
 At serving-time mix the celery and sweetbreads, and 
 add half the dressing. Arrange the six lettuce leaves in 
 a flat dish. Divide the sweetbread mixture into six 
 parts, and place it on the lettuce leaves. Drop the re- 
 mainder of the dressing in teaspoonfuls on the sweet- 
 breads. Serve at once. 
 
430 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Lobster Salad. 
 
 Cut into cubes enough boiled lobster to make a 
 quart. Put it into a bowl, and mix with it a marinade 
 made by mixing three table-spoonfuls of vinegar, one 
 of oil, one teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of 
 pepper. Put the bowl in the refrigerator for an hour 
 or more. 
 
 Wash the heart leaves of four heads of lettuce. Place 
 them in a dish, and sprinkle with cracked ice. 
 
 At serving-time stir half a pint of Mayonnaise into 
 the dish of lobster. Shake the ice and water from the 
 lettuce. Place two leaves together in the form of a shell, 
 and arrange them on a flat dish. Put a table-spoonful 
 of lobster in each shell, and a teaspoonful of dressing on 
 top of the lobster. 
 
 Oyster Salad. 
 
 For a two-pound can or a solid quart of oysters use 
 dressing made as follows : Beat well four eggs. Add to 
 them a gill each of cream and vinegar, one teaspoonful of 
 mustard, one of celery seed, one of salt, one-fifth of a 
 teaspoonful of cayenne, and two table-spoonfuls of but- 
 ter. Place in the double-boiler, and cook until as thick 
 as soft custard. It will take about five or six minutes. 
 The dressing must be stirred from the time it is put 
 on the fire until it is taken off; and when that time 
 comes, add two table-spoonfuls of powdered and sifted 
 crackers. 
 
 Heat the oysters to the boiling-point, in their own 
 liquor. Drain them, and add the dressing. Stir lightly, 
 and set away in a cold place for an hour or more. 
 
 The cracker and celery seed may be omitted, and at 
 serving-time a pint of celery, sliced thin, may be 
 added. 
 
SALADS. 431 
 
 Shrimp Salad. 
 
 For this salad there will be required a can of shrimps, 
 the heart leaves of four small heads of lettuce, and a 
 generous half-pint of Mayonnaise dressing. 
 
 Remove the shrimps from the can to a large bowl full 
 of ice-water, and after rinsing them, drain off all the 
 water. Place the shrimps in another bowl, and after 
 sprinkling upon them a marinade made of a table-spoon- 
 ful of oil, two of vinegar, half a teaspoonf ul of salt, and 
 a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, let them stand in 
 the ice-chest for two hours. 
 
 Arrange the leaves of lettuce in the form of shells on 
 a flat dish. Mix half the dressing with the shrimp, and 
 put a spoonful of the mixture into each shell. Drop 
 into each shell, also, a teaspoonful of the remaining 
 dressing ; and then serve the salad without delay. 
 
 The lettuce must, of course, be perfectly clean and 
 crisp. If you cannot get the head lettuce, take the 
 larger leaves of cabbage lettuce, and arrange them 
 around the border of the dish. Cut up the crisp white 
 leaves, and spread them lightly in the centre of the dish. 
 On this bed arrange the dressed shrimps, and drop white 
 heart leaves and teaspoonfuls of dressing here and there. 
 If you prefer, you may break the shrimps into two or 
 three pieces as the first step in making the salad. 
 
 * VEGETABLE SALADS. 
 
 A salad can be made of almost any kind of cooked 
 vegetables, but certain combinations are desirable. Peas, 
 string and shell beans, asparagus, cauliflower, and young 
 carrots all combine well, and potatoes, carrots, turnips, 
 beets, parsnips, and cauliflower make another combina- 
 tion. Any two of the cooked vegetables may be used 
 together. When a variety is used the dish is called 
 Salade Macedoine," 
 
432 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 If possible, when combining vegetables, have those 
 which are of delicate flavor form the body of the salad, 
 using only a small proportion of those with strong 
 flavor. Remember that beets are sweet, and use them 
 sparingly. 
 
 A vegetable salad may be made a thing of beauty 
 or an indistinct mixture and uninviting dish. Each 
 vegetable should be boiled and cut up separately, and all 
 should be seasoned with salt and pepper. Use any kind 
 of salad dressing ; the French dressing, however, is 
 especially fit. Sprinkle the prepared vegetables in thin 
 layers in a salad bowl, and sprinkle each layer with the 
 dressing; continuing the work until all the materials 
 have been used. Let the dish stand an hour or more in 
 the ice-chest. 
 
 For each quart of the vegetables use three large table- 
 spoonfuls of oil, one table-spoonful of vinegar, half a 
 teaspoonful of salt, one-quarter of a teaspoonful of pep- 
 per, and a teaspoonful of onion juice. Mix this dressing 
 thoroughly before using. The amount which can be 
 made with the ingredients mentioned above flavors the 
 salad delicately; and if the dish be desired moist and 
 highly seasoned, the quantity of dressing should be 
 doubled. 
 
 * French Vegetable Salad. 
 
 This dish is made of nearly all kinds of cooked vege- 
 tables, string and Lima beans, peas, turnips, carrots, and 
 cauliflower being the most desirable. All .or only a part 
 of -those which have been mentioned may be used. The 
 string beans should be cut into short pieces, and the 
 carrots and turnips into cubes, while the cauliflower 
 should be broken into little flowerets. The vegetables 
 must be mixed lightly, and be placed in a refrigerator, 
 to get thoroughly chilled. They should be cold when 
 used for the salad. A quart will be enough for six 
 persons, 
 
SALADS. 433 
 
 To make the dressing, rub a slice of onion on the 
 sides and bottom of a pint bowl j then put into the bowl 
 a level teaspoonf ul of salt and one-third of a teaspoonful 
 of pepper, and gradually beat in six table-spoonfuls of 
 salad oil arid two of vinegar. Mix this dressing thor- 
 oughly with the vegetables, and serve. 
 
 * Mac6doine Salad. 
 
 This is easily made, only a can of mixed vegetables, 
 six table-spoonfuls of olive oil, two of vinegar, a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pep- 
 per being used. Turn the vegetables from the can into 
 a strainer, and after pouring cold water over them, put^ 
 them into a salad bowl. Mix the oil, vinegar, salt, and 
 pepper, and add to the vegetables, mixing all very 
 thoroughly. Or, instead of the can of vegetables, use 
 a gill each of carrot, turnip, Lima beans, green peas, and 
 cauliflower. All except the peas should be cut into 
 small, pretty shapes. 
 
 * Potato Salad. 
 
 In no other salad is there such an opportunity for 
 variety of combinations. The salad, though, of course, 
 to be served cold, is always better for being made of 
 hot potatoes. New potatoes and when these are not 
 in season, German potatoes are best. A ripe, mealy 
 potato breaks into crumbs, and spoils the appearance of 
 the dish. Of course, it is not always convenient to 
 obtain either new or German potatoes. In that case 
 boil the potatoes a little less time than for most other 
 purposes, say twenty-five minutes, instead of thirty. 
 Cold potatoes may be used. Here are a few combina- 
 tions, and the housekeeper may enlarge upon them to 
 any extent she pleases. 
 
 Cut one quart of boiled potatoes into small cubes. 
 Add to them one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and 
 
434 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 a dressing made with three table-spoonfuls of vinegar, 
 six of oil, three of hot water or stock, one level table- 
 spoonful of salt, one-third of a teaspoonful of pepper, 
 and one teaspoonful of onion juice. Mix this lightly 
 with the potatoes, and set away in a cold place for an 
 hour or more. 
 
 Sprinkle a teaspoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of 
 onion juice over a quart of potato cubes, and add half 
 a pint of cream dressing. Let the dish stand for an 
 hour or more in a cold place. At serving-time arrange 
 crisp leaves of lettuce on a flat dish. Put two table- 
 spoonfuls of the salad in each leaf, and put a teaspoonful 
 >f fine-chopped cooked beet on top of the potato. 
 
 Make a dressing, the same as for oyster salad, omit- 
 ting the crackers, however. Mix with one quart of 
 potato cubes one table-spoonful of capers, two of chopped 
 cucumber pickles, and one teaspoonful of salt. Now add 
 the dressing, and a teaspoonful of onion juice. Let the 
 salad stand until perfectly cold. 
 
 Olives, smoked herring, fine-chopped cooked ham, or 
 smoked salmon, may be combined with potatoes in a 
 salad. Indeed, anything in the way of fish, meat, or 
 vegetable may be used. Care must be taken that such 
 additions do not predominate. 
 
 * Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Wash leaf by leaf the tender white leaves of two 
 heads of lettuce, and put them into an ice-chest for an 
 hour or two. A short time before the salad is to be 
 served, cut an onion in halves, and rub the inside of a 
 cup with it ; then put a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, 
 one-eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper, and four table- 
 
SALADS. 435 
 
 spoonfuls of olive oil into the cup, and after stirring 
 well, gradually add a table-spoonful and a half of vinegar. 
 Lay the lettuce in a salad dish, and pour the dressing 
 upon it. 
 
 This dressing answers for any salad of green or cooked 
 vegetables. The onion flavor may be omitted if one 
 prefer. 
 
 * Onion-and-Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Two heads of lettuce and a small Spanish onion must 
 be taken, as well as six table-spoonfuls of olive oil, three 
 of vinegar, half a teaspoonful of salt, and one-eighth of 
 a teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
 After mixing the salt and pepper with the oil, add the 
 vinegar, and stir very thoroughly. Strip off and put 
 aside the green leaves of lettuce ; and after washing the 
 heart leaves in cold water, drop them into a pan of ice- 
 water, to make them crisp. Peel the onion (it is well 
 to peel it under water), and with a sharp knife cut it 
 into shavings. Shake the lettuce in a colander until 
 it is free of water. Put the lettuce and onion into a 
 salad bowl in alternate layers, sprinkling a little of the 
 dressing upon each layer. Serve the salad as soon as 
 possible after it is made ; or, to put it in another way, 
 do not make it so early that it will stand a long time 
 before being eaten. 
 
 The green leaves of lettuce, which were put away at 
 the outset, may be boiled and hashed like spinach, and 
 served as a cooked vegetable. 
 
 Aguacate Salad. 
 
 The aguacate, or alligator pear, is found in foreign- 
 fruit stores. It is obtained from a West Indies tree; 
 is shaped somewhat like a pear, has a very thin rind, 
 and an extremely large seed-stone. A good-sized agua- 
 cate weighs about two pounds, and costs from fifteen to 
 
436 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 twenty cents. In New York there is a fruit store on 
 Fulton Street, near Fulton Market, where this fruit can 
 almost always be had. 
 
 For a salad, use one good-sized aguacate, the tender 
 whit^ leaves from two heads of lettuce, a Spanish onion, 
 and half a pint of Mayonnaise dressing. Cut the onion 
 into very thin slices. Pare the aguacate, and cut it into 
 thin rings. Wash the lettuce, keeping it as crisp as 
 possible. After putting two of the leaves together, 
 place a slice of onion upon them ; over the onion lay two 
 rings of the aguacate ; and in the centre of these rings 
 put a heaping teaspoonful of Mayonnaise dressing. Dis- 
 pose of all the material in this manner, and after placing 
 on a flat dish, serve at once. 
 
 The onion may be omitted if its flavor be disagreeable. 
 
 * Spinach Salad. 
 
 To a pint of cold boiled spinach that has been minced, 
 add a dressing made of six table-spoonfuls of oil, two of 
 vinegar, one level teaspoonful of salt, and one-fourth 
 of a teaspoonful of pepper. Arrange the spinach neatly 
 on a dish, and garnish with two hard-boiled eggs. The 
 whites and yolks of the eggs should be chopped sepa- 
 rately with a plated knife (a steel blade would discolor 
 the eggs) and be heaped in little mounds on the salad. 
 
 When it is planned to have spinach for dinner, the 
 vegetable may be washed, boiled, and chopped early in 
 the day, and it will then be ready to warm with the 
 butter and other ingredients at serving-time. This plan 
 will enable the making of a salad on the same day ; or 
 a pint of the minced vegetable may be put aside for 
 the next day, having the salad on a day when another 
 dish of spinach is not to be served hot. 
 
 Spinach salad sometimes is served with roast beef, 
 mutton^ or game. 
 
SALADS. 437 
 
 * Salsify in Salads. 
 
 Cold boiled salsify makes a pleasant salad when mixed 
 with a French dressing or any other simple dressing. 
 It is also nice when combined in a salad with other 
 cooked vegetables like potatoes, carrots, beans, and 
 cauliflower. 
 
 
 
 * Peppers in Salad* 
 
 After draining some boiled peppers and cutting them 
 into strips, place them in a small bowl, and add to each 
 pint of the peppers a mixture made of the following- 
 named ingredients : three table-spoonfuls of salad oil, 
 one of vinegar, one-third of a teaspoonful of salt, one- 
 fifth of a teaspoonful of pepper, and a few drops of onion 
 juice. 
 
 This salad may be served with crackers as a course in 
 a dinner, or be served with hot or cold meats. 
 
 * Cabbage Salad. 
 
 Chop rather fine a cabbage of medium size, and let it 
 stand for two hours in cold water enough to cover, sea- 
 soned with two table-spoonfuls of salt. Beat four eggs 
 well, and add to them one pint of vinegar, half a cupful 
 of butter, a scant table-spoonf al of pepper, and a heaping 
 table-spoonful of mustard. Place the bowl containing 
 the mixture in a basin of boiling water, and stir until the 
 mixture begins to thicken, say for about eight minutes ; 
 then remove from the fire and add a table-spoonful of 
 sugar. After draining all the water from the cabbage, 
 pour this hot dressing over it ; and as soon as the dish 
 is cold, it is ready to be served. It will keep a week, 
 and is especially nice with cold meats at luncheon or 
 dinner. 
 
438 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Beet Salad. 
 
 Cut cold boiled beets into cubes, and moisten them 
 with any kind of salad dressing. This is a handsome 
 and very palatable dish. 
 
 * Orange Salad. 
 
 For twelve persons pare eight rather acid oranges, and 
 slice them very thin, cutting down the sides instead of 
 across. Sprinkle half a cupful of sugar, two table-spoon- 
 fuls of sherry, and one table-spoonful of maraschino over 
 the fruit, and then put it into the refrigerator for an 
 hour. 
 
 This is nice to serve just before game, as it prepares 
 the palate for new dishes. The wine and maraschino 
 may be omitted, and the juice of a lemon used instead. 
 
 * Egg Salad. 
 
 After boiling half a dozen eggs for twenty minutes, 
 plunge them into cold water, and let them lie there for 
 three minutes ; then take off the shells, and cut the eggs 
 in halves. Remove the yolks, and mash them until light 
 and fine. Add to them two table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 one of vinegar, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter 
 of a teaspoonful of pepper, and heap the mixture in the 
 halved whites. Serve on a flat dish with a garnish of 
 lettuce or parsley. 
 
 The yolks may be moistened with any kind of salad 
 dressing, in which case the seasoning described above 
 should be omitted. 
 
 * Marguerite Salad. 
 
 Cut the whites of eight hard-boiled eggs into rings, 
 and mix the yolks with half a pint of Mayonnaise dress- 
 ing. Arrange sixteen small crisp leaves of lettuce on a 
 flat dish in a tasteful way, having two leaves lie together 
 
SALADS. 439 
 
 in such a mauner as to be round or almost round. Lay 
 the rings of white upon these leaves, to simulate the 
 petals of a daisy, and heap the yolks in the centre. 
 
 If one possess a little originality, there is hardly a 
 limit to the variety of salads that can be made during 
 the summer. 
 
 * Cheese Salad. 
 
 Use for this salad three hard-boiled eggs, a cupful and 
 a half of cheese, grated fine, one teaspoonful of mustard, 
 one-tenth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, half a teaspoonful 
 of salt, two table-spoonfuls of salad oil, two of vinegar, 
 and a cupful of cold chicken, chopped rather coarse. 
 
 Rub the yolks of the eggs until a smooth paste is 
 formed. Gradually add the oil, stirring all the while 
 with a fork ; then add all the seasoning. Mix the cheese 
 and chicken lightly with this dressing, and heap the 
 mixture on a pretty dish. Garnish with the whites of 
 the eggs, cut in circles, and with a few white celery 
 leaves or some sprigs of parsley. Serve with water 
 crackers, cold or toasted. 
 
440 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 GARNISHES. 
 
 Fish Garnishes. 
 
 ANY kind of fried, boiled, or baked fish may be gar- 
 nished in the following manner : 
 
 Arrange the fish in the centre of a dish; then place 
 around it a border of sliced tomatoes, and put a tea- 
 spoonful of Tartar sauce in the centre of each slice of 
 tomato. Serve at once. The fish must be very hot, and 
 the tomatoes cold. Serve a slice of tomato to each 
 person. 
 
 Another garnish for the same kinds of fish is small 
 smooth tomatoes, stuffed and baked. This is particularly 
 nice with baked fish. 
 
 Fried or fresh parsley arranged in little groups, with 
 a slice of lemon between each group, forms a good 
 garnish. 
 
 Or, a border of the delicate heart leaves of lettuce, 
 with red radishes sliced thin and dropped into the leaves, 
 and a teaspoon ful of Mayonnaise put into each group, 
 makes a garnish that is especially suitable for fried or 
 broiled fish. 
 
 Stuffed olives, arranged on a thin border of barbe de 
 capucine, make a pleasant garnish for spring. 
 
 Groups of crisp sorrel leaves make another nice spring 
 garnish for fried or broiled fish. 
 
 Fried oysters may be placed in the centre of a dish on 
 a warm napkin, and a border of celery salad placed 
 around them. 
 
GARNISHES. 441 
 
 A shallow dish, oval or round, may be filled with 
 celery salad placed in the centre of a warm platter, 
 and surrounded with fried oysters or fried scallops. 
 
 When parsley is abundant, a thick border of it may be 
 arranged on a folded napkin laid in the centre of a 
 flat dish. Any kind of fried fish may be used with this 
 garnish. In winter, celery leaves may be substituted for 
 the parsley. Slices of lemon, laid here and there on the 
 green, make the dish more effective. 
 
 Fried oysters are frequently served on small squares 
 of fried Boston brown bread. When this is done, gar- 
 nish with a few sprigs of parsley. 
 
 Boiled fish and baked or sauted fillets require a very 
 different garnish from broiled, fried, or ordinary baked 
 fish. 
 
 A contrasting sauce will alone be a sufficient garnish 
 for many delicate kinds of fish, for example, a pink 
 lobster sauce with a clear white fish. Shrimp sauce, 
 with a dozen of the whole shrimps heated in it, makes 
 another nice garnish. 
 
 For boiled fish, a good garnish may be made of rings 
 of the whites of hard-boiled eggs, arranged around the 
 dish, with the unbroken yolks placed in them. 
 
 Another way is to chop the whites of the eggs, and 
 rub the yolks through a coarse strainer. Arrange the 
 whites in little mounds, cap them with the yolks, and 
 stick a bit of parsley in the top of each mound. The 
 effect is very pretty. 
 
 Still another way is to pour the sauce over the fish, 
 then sprinkle the chopped whites of eggs over it, and 
 finish with the sifted yolks. A few bits of parsley 
 arranged around the edge of the dish will give a good 
 effect. 
 
 Boiled potato balls, seasoned with butter, salt, and 
 chopped parsley, make a nice garnish when arranged in 
 groups around a dish, or when heaped in the centre of a 
 circle of fillets. 
 
442 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Cold fish may be seasoned and then garnished with 
 the chopped whites and yolks of hard-boiled eggs and 
 chopped pickles or capers. Sprinkle the whites over 
 the fish ; then arrange the yolks and the pickles in very 
 small mounds. Garnish the base with bits of parsley. 
 
 A solid block of cold halibut or salmon may be placed 
 in the centre of a dish, sprinkled with a marinade, and 
 then allowed to stand for several hours. At serving- 
 time it may be coated with Mayonnaise, a circle of 
 delicate leaves of lettuce placed at the base of the 
 fish, and sliced olives sprinkled in this. If a little color 
 be desired, a few pieces of pickled beets may be added. 
 
 Cut hard-boiled eggs in two, and take out the yolks. 
 Cut a slice from the end of each half, so that it will 
 stand firmly ; fill each- of these little cups with cooked 
 beets, finely chopped. Garnish a plain boiled fish with 
 this, having the yolks of the eggs alternate with the 
 whites and beets. 
 
 A slice of cold salmon or. halibut may be sprinkled 
 with a marinade, and allowed to stand several hours in a 
 cold place. It should be placed on a large flat dish, and 
 masked with Mayonnaise. Arrange a circle of the heart 
 leaves of lettuce around it. Put the yolk of an egg and 
 the white and chopped beet in alternate leaves. 
 
 Fried Bread. 
 
 Fried bread is used as a garnish for soups, and with 
 various entrees. When used for soup, it is cut into 
 small squares. If for a garnish for meat or fish, it is 
 cut into rounds and triangles. The bread must be stale 
 and free of crust. It should be fried in lard or clari- 
 fied butter. If the bread is to be in rounds, cut it in 
 slices about one-third of an inch thick; with a round 
 pattie-cutter stamp out as many rounds as you wish. Or, 
 if the shape is to be triangular, cut the slices the same 
 thickness, then cut into squares, and cut the squares in 
 two diagonally. 
 
GARNISHES. 443 
 
 To Fry in Lard. Have the fat so hot that a blue 
 smoke rises from the centre. Put the bread in a frying- 
 basket, and lower it into the fat. When the bread is a 
 golden brown (which it should be in about one minute), 
 take the basket from the fat, and drain the bread on 
 brown paper. 
 
 To Fry in Butter. Put half a cupful of clarified 
 butter in a large frying-pan, and heat it slowly until it 
 begins to smoke. Put in as much bread as will cover 
 the bottom of the pan. Brown on one side, and then 
 turn and brown on the other. Drain on paper. Be care- 
 ful not to scorch the butter. 
 
 Fried Boston Brown Bread. 
 
 Cut the bread in thin slices, and, putting it into the 
 fry ing-basket, plunge into boiling fat. After cooking 
 for one minute, drain on brown paper. 
 
 Crisped Bread for Soups or Garnishes. 
 
 Cut stale bread in thin slices, and butter one side of 
 each slice. Cut the slices into whatever shape you fancy. 
 Put the bread, buttered side up, in a shallow tin pan, 
 place the pan in a hot oven, and cook until the bread is 
 a rich brown. It will take about five minutes. Be care- 
 ful that the bread does not burn. This bread is used 
 for soups and garnishes the same as fried bread. 
 
 Crisped Crackers. 
 
 Dip small fancy crackers in cold water. Take them 
 out and butter them on one side. Spread them in a 
 shallow pan, the buttered side up, and brown them in a 
 hot oven. Boston butter crackers may be split and 
 treated in the same manner. 
 
 Crisped crackers are nice to serve with oyster soups 
 and stews; also with fish and clam chowders. 
 
444 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Toasted Bread for a Garnish. 
 
 Stale bread may be cut in thin slices, toasted very 
 brown, and then cut in any form desired. Use the same 
 as the fried or crisped bread. 
 
 Royal Custard, for Soup. 
 
 Beat well with a spoon three eggs and one-third of a 
 teaspoonful of salt. It must be thoroughly beaten, and 
 yet it should not be frothy. Add one gill of consomme. 
 Butter a cup, and pour the custard into it. Put the cup 
 in a deep pan, and surround it with warm water. Place 
 in a moderate oven, and cook until the custard is firm in 
 the centre. It should cook so slowly that it will require 
 half an hour for cooking. The water should not be 
 allowed to boil. Let the custard cool in the cup ; then 
 turn it out, and if any of the surface be rough, trim it off. 
 Cut the custard into squares or cubes, and add these to 
 three quarts of consomme*, after the consomme is in the 
 tureen. 
 
 When this custard is added to a consomme, the soup 
 is called " Consomme a la royale." 
 
 Egg Balls. 
 
 Put four eggs into a saucepan, cover them with boiling 
 water, and boil gently for twenty minutes ; then put 
 them into cold water for a moment, and afterward 
 remove the shells. Take out the yolks, and pound them 
 in a bowl to a smooth paste. Add a level teaspoonful of 
 salt, about one-tenth of a teaspoonful of pepper, and a 
 well-beaten raw egg. Shape the mixture into balls about 
 the size of grapes, and roll these in flour. Put a table- 
 spoonful of butter on the stove in a small frying-pan, 
 and when it gets hot, put in the egg-balls. Fry them 
 until they turn a delicate brown. They must be watched 
 carefully, and turned frequently. They may be prepared 
 and fried a number of hours before the soup is served. 
 
GARNISHES. 44o 
 
 Frequently the yolks of hard-boiled eggs are put into 
 soups. They are not nearly so nice as egg balls, and it 
 is worth the while to take a little time and trouble for 
 the latter. 
 
 Chicken Force-meat Balls. 
 
 Chop very fine half of the breast of a large tender 
 chicken, and pound to a smooth paste ; then rub it 
 through a coarse sieve. There should be a generous 
 third of a cupful of the meat after it has passed through 
 the sieve. Put a quarter of a cupful of cream into a 
 small saucepan with one-eighth of a cupful of stale bread 
 crumbs and a tiny bit of mace, and cook until the mix- 
 ture will form a smooth paste when stirred. It will 
 take about ten minutes. Remove the mace, and add a 
 table-spoonful of butter, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of 
 salt, a very little pepper, the meat, and the white of an 
 egg, beaten to a stiff froth. Mix well, and set away to 
 cool. When cold, form into balls about the size of Dela- 
 ware grapes. Have ready a pan containing a quart of 
 boiling water, slightly salted. Drop in the balls, and 
 place the pan where the water will keep hot without 
 boiling. Cook the balls in this way for five minutes. 
 Turn them into a strainer, and as soon as they are well 
 drained, add them to the soup. 
 
 Profiteroles for Soup. 
 
 Use one gill of boiling water, two scant gills of flour, 
 half a gill of butter, and two eggs. Put the water and 
 butter in a saucepan, and place on the fire. When the 
 butter becomes melted and the liquid begins to boil 
 rapidly, add the flour, all at one time, and beat well with 
 a strong spoon for two minutes, being careful that the 
 mixture does not burn. Turn it into a bowl, and set 
 away to cool. When it is cold, add the eggs, one at a 
 time, and beat the mixture for a quarter of an hour. 
 
446 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Butter the bottom of a shallow cake-pan very lightly. 
 Drop the cooled mixture into the pan in balls about the 
 size of a pea. Bake in a moderately hot oven for ten 
 minutes ; then take them from the pan, and put away 
 until the time for serving in the soup. They should not 
 be put into the tureen until after the soup has been 
 poured in. 
 
 If a delicate flavor of cheese be liked, one-fourth of a 
 teaspoonful of grated Parmesan cheese may be added to 
 the butter and water when they are put on to boil. 
 
 Effective Combinations of Vegetables. 
 
 With a fillet of beef any of the following-named prepa- 
 rations of vegetables may be used as a garnish : Potatoes 
 a la parisienne, peas, stuffed onions, stuffed tomatoes, 
 vegetables a la jardiniere, macedoine of vegetables, mush- 
 rooms, stuffed, stewed, or broiled, fried sweet potatoes, 
 and Brussels sprouts. 
 
 Beef, veal, and lambs' tongues all may be served with 
 a mound of mashed potatoes, or with a pure*e of spinach, 
 turnip, carrot, cabbage, tomato, or cauliflower, or with 
 artichokes, turnips, stewed carrots, vegetables k la jar- 
 diniere, mace*doine of vegetables, boiled rice, Turkish rice, 
 or macaroni. 
 
 Chops and cutlets of veal, lamb, or mutton may be 
 arranged around a mound of mashed potatoes, a timbale 
 of potatoes, a mound of thin fried or French fried pota- 
 toes, a mound of peas, beans, asparagus, Brussels sprouts, 
 spinach, salsify, or okra ; or they may be disposed on a 
 border of mashed potatoes, and another vegetable, like 
 peas, beans, tomatoes, or cauliflower, may be heaped in 
 the centre; or, again, there may be a combination of 
 vegetables, as k la jardiniere, or the mace'doine ; or a 
 sauce may be poured in the centre. 
 
 Carrots and peas, singly or together, afford most effec- 
 tive combinations in garnishes, because of their beautiful 
 
GARNISHES. 447 
 
 colors. Cutlets of game require the same kinds of vege- 
 tables that would be served with cutlets of mutton, lamb, 
 or veal. The vegetables suitable with cutlets or chops 
 may be served with almost any kind of entree made 
 of cold meat. When the made dishes are in the form 
 of croquettes, timbales, cutlets, or quenelles, the vege- 
 tables should be served as a puree, or in a simpler sauce, 
 or with only a seasoning of salt and butter. Heap 
 the vegetable in the centre of the dish, and arrange the 
 entree around it ; or a mace'doine, or vegetables a la jar- 
 diniere, may be placed in the centre, and the entree be 
 disposed on the border. 
 
 Purges of Vegetables. 
 
 When a puree of vegetables is designed for a garnish, 
 it must be made so dry that it will not spread over the 
 dish when poured upon it ; yet it must be moist enough 
 to be served almost as a sauce. 
 
 In making a puree, one must pare the vegetable used, 
 if it have any skin, and boil or stew it until tender; 
 then mash it tine, and rub it through a pure*e sieve; 
 season it, and moisten with stock, or milk, cream, or per- 
 haps some of the water in which it was boiled ; and at 
 serving-time make it very hot, and serve it on a warm 
 dish in the form and size desired. The hoi; entree should 
 be placed upon the puree, and the dish be served at once. 
 A puree of potatoes does not, however, need to be pressed 
 through a sieve. It is spoiled by standing, and should 
 therefore be served as soon as made. 
 
 Here are receipts for a few purees : 
 
 Pure"e of Cauliflower. 
 
 Use a head of cauliflower weighing about two pounds 
 and a half, a cupful of milk or cream, three table-spoon- 
 fuls of butter, one table-spoonful of flour, half a tea- 
 spoonful of chopped onion, one teaspoonful of sugar, 
 
448 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 two s of salt, and one-third of a teaspoonful of white 
 pepper. 
 
 Beinove and discard the green leaves of the cauliflower, 
 and wash the remaining part in cold water ; then place 
 it, head down, in sufficient cold water to cover it, and 
 add two table-spoonfuls of salt. Soak it for two hours, 
 and at the end of that time put it into a large stew-pan, 
 and add three quarts of boiling water. Cover, and sim- 
 mer for thirty minutes; then turn into a colander, and 
 drain thoroughly, and afterward turn into a wooden bowl 
 or tray, and pound to a pulp. Finally rub through a 
 pure'e sieve. 
 
 Put the butter and chopped onion into a large frying- 
 pan, and cook slowly for five minutes. Add the cauli- 
 flower, salt, pepper, sugar, and flour, and cook for five 
 minutes, stirring all the while; then add the stock or 
 cream, and cook for three minutes longer, stirring all the 
 while. At the end of that time spread the pure'e on 
 the dish, add the entrde, and serve. 
 
 Other Pur6es. 
 
 Spinach is prepared in almost the same manner as 
 cauliflower. There is this difference : use only water 
 enough to cover it when it is boiled; or if the bitter 
 flavor of the vegetable be liked, use only a cupful of 
 water to a peck of spinach. Turnips and carrots will 
 require forty minutes' boiling ; asparagus, fifteen, only 
 the green heads being cooked; peas, from twenty to 
 forty minutes, the time depending upon their age and 
 freshness; beans can be boiled sufficiently in an hour 
 and a quarter if fresh, or in two hours, if they be rather 
 old. 
 
 When tomatoes are used for a pure'e, most of the 
 liquor must be drained from them before they are put 
 on to cook ; and to each quart of the pulp there should 
 be added two table-spoonfuls of powdered cracker crumbs, 
 
GARNISHES. 449 
 
 two level table-spoonfuls of flour, two large table-spoon- 
 fuls of butter, one table-spoonful of sugar, a quarter of a 
 teaspoonful of pepper, and one teaspoonful of salt. Cook 
 the tomatoes for half an hour ; then add the other ingre- 
 dients, having the flour and butter mixed together, ami 
 cook twenty minutes longer. Finally rub the puree 
 through a sieve. 
 
 Pur6e of Chestnuts. 
 
 To garnish a dish that will serve for twelve persons, 
 use fifty Spanish chestnuts, one table-spoonful of butter, 
 one teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, half a pint of white stock, one gill of cream. 
 
 Shell, blanch, and boil the chestnuts in water sufficient 
 to cover them, for half an hour. Drain off the water, 
 and put the nuts in the mortar. Pound them to a powder, 
 and add the butter, the seasoning, and the stock, a little 
 at a time. Continue pounding for ten minutes longer ; 
 then rub through a puree sieve. Put the strained mix- 
 ture in a stew-pan, and cook slowly for one hour, stirring 
 frequently. Then beat in the cream, and cook for five 
 minutes longer. This pure'e is served with cutlets of 
 turkey and game. 
 
 Pure"e a la Bretonne. 
 
 Make a Breton sauce. Pour it in the centre of a 
 warm platter, and in the centre of this sauce heap a 
 pint and a half of boiled Lima beans, seasoned with salt 
 and butter. Arrange cutlets or chops of mutton or pork 
 around this, and serve very hot. Or the garnish may 
 be arranged in a vegetable dish, and served with a roast 
 of mutton. 
 
 Rice Border. 
 
 Wash a cupful of rice in three waters. Put it in a 
 stew-pan with three cupfuls of white stock. Cook for 
 half an hour. At the end of that time add one level 
 
450 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 table-spoonful of salt and two table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 and set back where the mixture will cook slowly for 
 twenty minutes. Beat the yolks of four eggs with three 
 table-spoonfuls of cream or milk ; stir these into the 
 rice. Butter a border-mould thoroughly ; pack the rice 
 into it. Let it stand for eight or ten minutes in a warm 
 (not hot) place, and turn it out on a warm platter. 
 The centre may be filled with any preparation of meat 
 warmed in a sauce. This makes a very elegant and 
 savory dish. 
 
 Potato Border. 
 
 Pare, boil, and mash nine good-sized potatoes ; add to 
 them two table-spoonfuls of butter, a generous half-cup- 
 ful of boiling milk, one generous table-spoonful of salt, 
 and the yolks of two eggs, well beaten; and beat the 
 mixture until very light. Butter a border mould thor- 
 oughly. Pack the potato in it, and let it stand on the 
 kitchen table for about eight minutes. Beat the whites 
 of the eggs to a froth j add a quarter of a teaspoonf ul of 
 salt to them, and turn the potato border on a warm 
 platter. Cover the potato with the beaten white of the 
 egg, and put the dish into a moderate oven to brown 
 the egg. Take from the oven, and fill the centre with 
 meat or fish heated in a sauce. 
 
 FORCE-MEAT. 
 
 THis is used so extensively in the making of entries 
 that a good cook should understand its preparation 
 perfectly. When the principles are once mastered there 
 need be no fear of failure in the preparation of the most 
 delicate dish which in a great measure depends for its 
 success upon the quality of the force-meat. 
 
 The finest kinds of force-meat consist of raw meat or 
 fish, a panada, either butter, beef suet, or calf s udder, 
 eggs, and seasoning. 
 
GARNISHES. 451 
 
 To prepare the meat or fish, free it of fat, skin, 
 bone, and sinews ; then chop it fine, and pound it to a 
 paste. Put it in a wire pur^e sieve, and with a wooden 
 vegetable-masher rub it through the sieve. This is the 
 hardest part of the work in making force-meat. 
 
 Panada is made by cooking together, until a smooth 
 paste is formed, bread and cream or stock in the pro- 
 portions of half as much bread as there is cream or 
 stock. If beef suet be used it must be freed of tough 
 fibrous parts, then chopped fine, and pounded with the 
 meat and bread. It is then rubbed through the pur^e 
 sieve. This is not so delicate as butter or calf's udder, 
 and is not so often used. When a force-meat is made in 
 this manner it is called " godiveau." It is cheaper than 
 the force-meat made with butter or udder. 
 
 Calf's udder is a fat-looking substance attached to the 
 inner part of the leg of veal. To prepare it tie it in a 
 piece of netting, and boil it in the stock-pot for one hour. 
 If there be no stock cooking, boil it in slightly salted 
 water. When cold, chop it; then pound, and rub it 
 through a puree sieve. When the udder is used in place 
 of butter, great care must be taken to have it blend with 
 the other ingredients. This is best done by pounding 
 all the ingredients together in the mortar. 
 
 In all the rules for force-meats given in this book, 
 butter and cream have been used ; but the same quantity 
 of udder may be substituted for the butter, and soup 
 stock may always be used instead of cream in the 
 panada. 
 
 It should be borne in mind that all the meat except 
 liver (which is boiled) and all the fish must be raw. 
 
 Sometimes the bread may be a little firmer than at 
 others ; or it may be cooked too long in the cream, and 
 thus become tough and rather dry, in which case the 
 force-meat will not be so delicate. Again, the force-meat 
 may from various causes be too delicate to keep its form. 
 It is always best to try the mixture after it is finished. 
 
452 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 To do this, roll a small piece into the shape of a ball ; 
 drop it into a small saucepan of boiling water, move the 
 saucepan back where the water will not boil, and cook 
 the force-meat ball for ten minutes. This is called 
 poaching. Take up and cut open. If it cuts smooth 
 and firm all through, and yet is very tender, it is all 
 right ; but if it should be tough, add two table-spoonfuls 
 of cream to each half -pint of force-meat; or if you 
 should use a little Bechamel sauce, it would be better 
 than the cream. 
 
 If, on the other hand, the force-meat ball is too soft, 
 and shrinks when cut, add one well- beaten egg to every 
 pint of the force-meat. This will give it more body. 
 
 No matter in what form the force-meat may be cooked, 
 the greatest care must always be used to cook it very 
 slowly. The heat must never be above the boiling-point. 
 If the water with which the article is surrounded be 
 allowed to boil, the force-meat will be spongy and tough ; 
 but if cooked at the boiling-point, or a little below it, 
 the force-meat will be smooth, fine-grained, and delicate. 
 
 Force-meats are used for quenelles, boudins, borders 
 for entries, in the shape of balls for soups, for raised 
 pies, timbales, etc. 
 
 Chicken-Liver Force-meat. 
 
 For about a pint and a half of force-meat use six 
 chicken livers, one pint of cream or rich chicken stock, 
 half a pint of stale bread crumbs, three eggs, one gen- 
 erous table-spoonful of salt, one-sixth of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, eight table-spoonfuls of butter, and one-eighth 
 of a teaspoonful of ground mace. 
 
 Wash the livers, and put them in a stew-pan with 
 boiling water enough to cover them. Boil for half an 
 hour, and then take them from the water and let them 
 cool. When cold, pound to a smooth paste, and then 
 rub through a puree sieve. Put the bread and cream 
 
GARNISHES. 453 
 
 in a small stew-pan, and cook slowly, stirring often, 
 until a smooth paste is formed, it will take about ten 
 minutes for this. Then take from the fire, add the 
 butter to the paste, let it cool slightly, and add the liver, 
 the seasoning, and the eggs, well beaten. Mix these 
 ingredients thoroughly, and cool them. The force-meat 
 is then ready for any purpose. 
 
 Sometimes this force-meat is made by using three gills 
 of the liver and three gills of chicken meat. This give? 
 a more delicate dish. 
 
 Chicken Force-meat White. 
 
 Use the uncooked breasts ol two large fowls, chopped, 
 pounded, and rubbed through a puree sieve. This will 
 give a generous half-pint of meat. In addition will be 
 needed three table-spoonfuls of butter, half a table- 
 spoonful of salt, half a blade of mace, one-eighth of a 
 teaspoonful of pepper, half a pint of cream, one gill of 
 stale bread, free of crust, and the whites of three eggs. 
 
 Mix the seasoning with the strained meat. Boil the 
 bread, mace, and cream together until they are cooked 
 to a smooth paste, about ten minutes j then take from 
 the fire, and add the butter, and then add the meat and 
 seasoning. Beat the whites of the eggs well, and add 
 them to the mixture. Stir until all the ingredients are 
 thoroughly blended. 
 
 Chicken Force-meat Dark. 
 
 Make this the same as the white force-meat, with the 
 exception of substituting dark meat for white, and the 
 yolks of the eggs for the whites. 
 
 Veal Force-meat. 
 
 This is made the same as the chicken force-meat, 
 save that half a pint of veal, chopped, pounded, and 
 strained, is used instead of chicken. 
 
454 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Game Force-meat. 
 
 Use half a pint of any kind of game instead of the 
 chicken, and proceed as for chicken force-meat. 
 
 Fish Force-meat. 
 
 Any kind of delicate fish may be used for force-meat. 
 It must be free of skin, fat, and bone. Pound, and 
 rub it through the puree sieve. Use a generous half -pint 
 of this, and proceed as for chicken force-meat. 
 
 Oyster Force-meat. 
 
 Use one generous pint of stale bread crumbs, one 
 dozen large oysters, three table-spoonfuls of butter, one 
 teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of cay- 
 enne, one teaspoonful of minced parsley, a slight grating 
 of nutmeg, one table-spoonful of lemon juice, three table- 
 spoonfuls of oyster juice, and the yolks of two uncooked 
 eggs. 
 
 Chop the oysters very fine, add the other ingredients, 
 pound to a smooth paste, and rub through a pure*e sieve. 
 Taste, to see if the preparation is salt enough ; if not, 
 add more salt. 
 
 This force-meat may be used for timbales, or for stuff- 
 ing any kind of fish or poultry. It may also be shaped 
 into balls or quenelles, which may be covered with the 
 yolks of eggs and bread crumbs, and then fried; or 
 the balls may be made very small, then rolled in egg 
 yolks, and browned in a hot oven. When treated in 
 this manner, they are a nice garnish for soup. 
 
 Anchovy Force-meat. 
 
 Use one bottle of anchovies, preserved in salt, one 
 gill of stock, one generous table-spoonful of stale bread 
 crumbs, two scant table-spoonfuls of butter, one table- 
 
GARNISHES. 455 
 
 spoonful of lemon juice, a grain of cayenne, and the 
 yolks of two uncooked eggs. 
 
 Take the fish from the brine, and wash them, and then 
 soak in cold water for two hours; drain and wipe the 
 anchovies, and then take out the bones. Boil the bread 
 and stock together for ten minutes ; cool the mixture j 
 then put this, with the anchovies and all the other ingre- 
 dients, except the egg yolks, into the mortar, and pound 
 to a smooth paste. Add the egg yolks, and pound for 
 ten minutes longer. Eub through a puree sieve, and the 
 force-meat will be ready for use. 
 
 Anchovy force-meat may be used for timbales, or to 
 stuff smelts, olives, turbans of fish, etc. 
 
 Chicken Quenelles. 
 
 Use the breast of one chicken, half of a calf's brains, 
 half a gill of cream, one generous table-spoonful of stale 
 bread crumbs, one generous table-spoonful of butter, one 
 egg, a level teaspoonful of salt, one-tenth of a teaspoonful 
 of pepper, a slight grating of nutmeg, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of lemon juice. 
 
 Clean the brains, tie them in a piece of cheese cloth, 
 and boil for half an hour in salted water, or, better still, 
 in stock. Let- them cool. Chop the raw chicken breast, and 
 add the brains ; pound, and rub through a puree sieve. 
 Add the seasoning. Cook the bread and cream together 
 for three minutes; add the butter, and then add this 
 mixture and the egg, well beaten, to the meat and 
 seasoning. Mix these ingredients thoroughly ; set away 
 to cool. When the force-meat is cold, put a pint and a 
 half of chicken stock, or any other light stock, on the fire 
 in a saucepan. Butter the bottom of a small frying-pan. 
 Put some boiling water into a bowl ; dip two teaspoons 
 into the water for a moment; fill one spoon with the 
 force-meat, and slip the force-meat on the other spoon as 
 illustrated on page 456. Then slip the quenelle from the 
 
456 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 second spoon into the buttered pan. When all the 
 quenelles are formed, cover them with the boiling stock , 
 place on a part of the stove where the stock will be 
 
 Process of Making Quenelles. 
 
 sure not to boil ; cover the quenelles with but- 
 tered paper, and cook for ten minutes. If the 
 quenelles be made with table-spoons, they must 
 be poached for twenty minutes. The small 
 quenelles are used for soups and in ragouts ; when made 
 with table-spoons, they may be served with a delicate 
 sauce, as an entree. With the quantity of ingredients 
 given above, about a dozen and a half small quenelles 
 may be made. 
 
 The force-meat may be shaped into balls the size of 
 an olive, and be poached in the same manner as when 
 shaped with a spoon. 
 
 Financidre Ragout. 
 
 Use two cocks'-combs, four table-spoonfuls of chopped 
 truffles, a cupful of mushrooms, cut into dice, one pair 
 of sweetbreads, boiled and cut into dice, half a pint of 
 small chicken quenelles, one pint of Spanish sauce, half 
 a gill of Madeira, and one teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Put all the ingredients in a stew-pan, and simmer 
 for ten minutes. This ragout is used with fillets of 
 poultry and game, with quenelles, as a filling for a tim- 
 bale, etc. Whenever it is used with a dish, the dish 
 
GARNISHES. 457 
 
 takes its name ; as, for example, sweetbreads a la finan- 
 ciere. In making this ragout, the simplest way is to 
 buy the cocks'-combs, mushrooms, and truffles all in one 
 bottle. A bottle costing f 2.50 will be sufficient for the 
 ragout, and also for a pint of financiere sauce. This 
 ragout is so rich that only a very small portion should 
 be served to a guest ; the amount given will therefore 
 be enough to serve as a dish intended for a dozen per- 
 sons. The quenelles may be made with the rule for 
 chicken force-meat for soup. Shape them in teaspoons, 
 and poach in boiling stock for five minutes. 
 
 Chicken Ragout. 
 
 Put into the double-boiler a pint and a half of cooked 
 chicken, cut into dice, half a pint of mushrooms, cut 
 into small pieces, the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, 
 the whites of the eggs cut in rings, one teaspoonful of 
 salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of white pepper, and 
 one pint of supreme or white sauce. Place on the fire, 
 . and cook for 'twenty minutes. 
 
 This ragout may be used to fill a vol-au-vent, to pour 
 into the centre of a rice or force-meat border, or to 
 serve with fillets of chicken. 
 
 Ragout of Game. 
 
 Put into a double-boiler a pint and a half of any kind 
 of tender cooked game, cut into dice, half a pint of 
 mushrooms, cut into dice, a dozen and a half stoned 
 olives, a teaspoonful of salt, a grain of cayenne, and one 
 pint of Spanish sauce. Place on the fire, and heat for 
 twenty minutes. Add two table-spoonfuls of Madeira 
 and one of lemon juice. 
 
 This ragout may be used as a garnish with game cut- 
 lets, to fill a border of rice or force-meat, or to fill a vol- 
 au-vent. Small rounds of red tongue may be added to 
 the ragout. 
 
458 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Aspic Jelly. 
 
 Use one quart of rich consomme*, one gill of Madeira, 
 two table-spoonfuls of lemon juice, two table-spoonfuls 
 of tarragon vinegar, one teaspoonful of salt, and one 
 package of gelatine. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in half a pint of the consomme' for 
 two hours. At the end of that time put the remainder of 
 the consomme* on the fire in a saucepan. As soon as it 
 reaches the boiling-point, add the soaked gelatine and 
 the other ingredients. Draw back to a cooler part of the 
 range, and stir for five minutes. Then strain through a 
 flannel bag or a napkin. The liquid may be cooled in 
 any form one pleases. The amount of materials given 
 will make nearly three pints of jelly. 
 
 Aspic jelly is used in such dishes as boned birds, foie de 
 gras, and all kinds of delicate meats and fish. The mode 
 of making it described is the simplest one. If the 
 whites of two eggs be moderately well beaten and added 
 to the hot consomme at the same time that the soaked 
 gelatine and other ingredients are put with it, the 
 jelly may be cleared as directed for clearing jellies. If 
 it be then strained through a flannel bag, the jelly will 
 be as clear as crystal. 
 
 Aspic jelly may be used to garnish cold meats, fish, 
 or salads. 
 
 Pour the jelly into a flat dish to a depth of about an 
 inch ; when firm, stamp it out with fancy cutters. A 
 border of these fancy shapes may be arranged around a 
 salad, a piece of cold fish, or a boned bird. 
 
 To make an aspic border, place a border mould in a 
 pan and surround it with ice. Pour the jelly into the 
 border to the depth of an inch. When this is congealed, 
 decorate it with cooked beet and carrot, and the white of 
 a hard-boiled egg, all cut into fancy shapes with the 
 vegetable-cutters. Add two table-spoonfuls of liquid 
 jelly to fasten the decorations in place. When this has 
 
GARNISHES. 459 
 
 hardened, pour in about an inch more of the liquid jelly, 
 and let it stand in a cool place for several hours. This 
 border may be turned on a flat dish, and the centre be 
 filled with a salad or with cold fish. If the border be 
 large enough, a boned fowl or bird may be placed in the 
 centre. The jelly may be cooled in tiny moulds, and 
 each mould be decorated with any of the vegetables 
 named for the border, or with anything else one may 
 fancy. 
 
 Glaze. 
 
 Meat glaze is used a great deal in high-class cookery. 
 It is consomm^ boiled down to a thick glue-like sub- 
 stance. One quart of consomme is put in an open sauce- 
 pan, and boiled until it is reduced to half a pint. 
 
 Half-glaze is made by reducing a quart of consomme* 
 to one pint. The thicker glaze may be kept for a month 
 or more in a cool dry place. 
 
 Glaze is used to give a smoot-h, glossy surf-ace to 
 cooked meats. It is also added to soups, sauces, and 
 ragouts to give them smoothness and body. When it is 
 used on meats it should be put in a small saucepan, and 
 this saucepan must be placed in another of boiling 
 water ; stir the glaze until it is melted, and it is ready 
 to use. A brush or a small piece of cloth is used for 
 spreading the glaze on the meat. 
 
 Marinades. 
 
 ' 
 
 A marinade is a kind of pickle which is used to season 
 meats and fish either before or after they are cooked. It 
 is nearly always added to the meat or fish that is to be 
 used in a salad. Cold boiled fish is sometimes sprinkled 
 with it several hours before serving. Various kinds of 
 cutlets are steeped in a marinade for hours before they 
 are cooked. A leg of venison, and venison chops, steaks, 
 and cutlets, are frequently kept in marinade for a day 
 
460 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 or longer, before being cooked. There are two kinds of 
 marinades, the cooked and uncooked. 
 
 Cooked Marinade. 
 
 Put into a stew-pan two table-spoonfuls of butter, two 
 of chopped bacon, three each of chopped onion, carrot, 
 and celery, one clove of garlic, one bay leaf, and one 
 sprig each of thyme and parsley. 
 
 Let these cook slowly for twenty minutes ; then add 
 three gills of vinegar, and one of water, one teaspoonful 
 of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Simmer for 
 twenty minutes; then strain and cool. This marinade 
 is particularly nice for cutlets of game and poultry, and 
 for fish. 
 
 Raw Marinade. 
 
 Mix together three table-spoonfuls of oil and six of 
 vinegar, one teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, and half a teaspoonful of onion juice. 
 
 If the marinade be for fish, use only three table-spoon- 
 fuls of vinegar and three of lemon juice. The onion 
 juice may be omitted if it be not liked. This marinade 
 is suitable for cooked meat or fish that is to be served in 
 a salad. 
 
 Essence of Chicken. 
 
 Draw and clean a fowl weighing about five pounds. 
 Remove the greater part of the fat. Cut the fowl into 
 small pieces, and place it in a stew-pan, adding three 
 pints of cold water. Place it on the fire, and heat slowly 
 to the boiling-point. Skim carefully, and set back 
 where it will simmer for three hours. At the end of 
 that time add one small slice of carrot, one-fourth of a 
 small onion, and one clove. Cook for half an hour 
 longer, and then strain. Put the liquid in a cool place. 
 
GARNISHES. 461 
 
 When cold, skim off the fat. The liquid, when chilled, 
 should be a firm jelly. 
 
 Essence of chicken is used in making rich sauces and 
 ragouts. A few spoonfuls of it are added to a sauce to 
 give it increased smoothness and body. 
 
 The cooked fowl used in making the essenee may be 
 served with a sauce. 
 
 
 
 
 . . 
 
 
462 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. 
 
 THIS is a branch of cookery which every housekeeper 
 should understand perfectly. There are many simple 
 sauces which can be made quickly .and of materials 
 always at hand ; but for fine sauces there must be rich, 
 clear stock, and a long, slow process of preparation. 
 
 When a sauce is desired clear, smooth, and velvety, 
 the saucepan must be placed on a part of the stove 
 where the sauce will bubble at only one side. The 
 saucepan must not be covered. In two hours' time the 
 sauce will " clear," as it is termed ; that is, the butter 
 will have separated from the other ingredients and will 
 float on top, the flour and other ingredients will have 
 combined and dissolved, and the sauce will have a semi- 
 transparent appearance. All fine sauces, such as Span- 
 ish, supreme, mushroom, etc., must be cleared in this 
 manner. 
 
 When cooking butter and flour together for a thicken- 
 ing, be sure, that the butter is hot before the flour is 
 added. When the flour is added, be sure to stir con- 
 stantly until the liquid is added. If the sauce is to be 
 white, the liquid must be added to the butter and flour 
 before the mixture begins to brown, that is, while it is 
 still frothy. When the sauce is to be brown, the flour 
 and butter must be cooked together until as brown as a 
 chestnut. These preparations of butter and flour are 
 termed brown and white roux, although as roux really 
 means " russet," it can hardly be applied with propriety 
 to a white thickening. 
 
 One of the mistakes of the inexperienced cook in 
 making a sauce with a thickening of butter and flour 
 
MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. 463 
 
 cooked together is that the liquid is added to the thick- 
 ening before the temperature has been lowered. The 
 pan in which the butter and flour are cooked should be 
 drawn back to a cool part of the range, and the mixture 
 should be stirred until partially cooled ; then may be 
 added gradually the liquid, which should be cold, or 
 nearly so, whenever possible. 
 
 It should be remembered that a sauce must cook long 
 enough to clear and have the butter separate and come 
 to the top, where it can be skimmed off; or that the 
 sauce should not boil more than ten minutes from the 
 time the liquid is added. When a sauce is cooked less 
 than ten minutes the butter does not separate from the 
 other ingredients. Longer cooking causes the butter par- 
 tially to separate from the other materials ; this makes 
 the sauce greasy unless the cooking be continued long 
 enough to make the separation complete. 
 
 For common sauces the quick method is generally 
 used, and it sometimes happens that, by mistake, the 
 sauce is cooked so long that it becomes oily. In this 
 case add a little cold stock or water, and stir until the 
 sauce begins to boil. It will then be perfectly smooth ; 
 take it from the fire at once. 
 
 If the suggestions here given be remembered and the 
 rules for the various sauces carefully followed, any 
 housekeeper may feel assured of success. 
 
 Spanish Sauce. 
 
 This is the finest of the brown sauces, and is the foun- 
 dation of many of the meat and fish sauces. There will 
 be required for it one pint and a gill of consomme, three 
 table-spoonfuls of gelatine, four of flour, four of butter, 
 two of chopped onion, one of chopped carrot, one of 
 chopped celery, one ounce of lean ham, one bay leaf, one 
 sprig of parsley, two cloves, a bit of mace, salt, and 
 pepper. 
 
464 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in one gill of consomme* for an hour 
 or more. Cook the butter and vegetables together for 
 ten minutes, being careful not to let them burn ; add 
 the flour, and cook until brown, stirring all the while. 
 Draw the saucepan back, and gradually add the pint of 
 consomme ; boil for three minutes, stirring all the while. 
 Then add the herbs and spice, and put the mixture back 
 where it will simmer, letting it stay there for two hours. 
 At the end of that time add the soaked gelatine, and 
 cook for fifteen minutes longer. Skim the fat from 
 the sauce, and strain. It is now ready to be served 
 as a simple Spanish sauce, or as the foundation for 
 various fish and meat sauces. 
 
 Chateaubriand Sauce. 
 
 Use one pint of Spanish sauce, one gill of sherry, three 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, a teaspoonful of minced parsley, 
 one table-spoonful of lemon juice, one saltspoonful of 
 salt, and a little pepper. 
 
 Beat the butter, lemon juice, salt, and pepper together ; 
 then add the parsley. When ready, to serve, add this 
 mixture and the wine to the hot sauce; stir for one 
 minute, and serve. 
 
 Financiere Sauce. 
 
 Use one pint of Spanish sauce, one gill of essence of 
 chicken, one cupful of chopped mushrooms, and one small 
 box of truffles, chopped fine. Put all the ingredients 
 together, and let them simmer for one hour ; strain, and 
 the sauce will be ready for use. 
 
 The materials that remain in the strainer may be put 
 into a stew-pan, with three pints of any kind of stock, 
 and simmered for two hours or longer. This will give 
 a strong flavor of the mushrooms and truffles. This 
 stock may be usecl for any kind of sauce. 
 
MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. 465 
 
 Madeira Sauce. 
 
 To a pint of Spanish sauce add one gill of Sicily 
 Madeira. This sauce is used with baked fish and with 
 game. 
 
 Venison Sauce. 
 
 Put into a stew-pan one pint of Spanish sauce, four 
 table-spoonfuls of currant jelly, one of lemon juice, and 
 one gill of port wine. 
 
 Place on the fire, and cook until the jelly is melted. 
 Stir frequently. 
 
 Olive Brown Sauce. 
 
 Stone two dozen olives. Cook them for half an hour 
 in water or stock enough to cover them. Drain them ; 
 put them into a stew-pan, with a pint of Spanish or brown 
 sauce ; simmer for five minutes. 
 
 This sauce is suitable for broiled steak, roast duck, 
 or any entre"e of poultry or game where olives may be 
 used. 
 
 Duxelles Sauce. 
 
 For this, use one pint of Spanish sauce, one cupful of 
 minced mushrooms, one table-spoonful each of minced 
 onion and parsley, and two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
 
 Put the butter and vegetables into a stew-pan ; cook 
 over a moderate fire for ten minutes; stir frequently. 
 During the last two minutes stir constantly, and have 
 the stew-pan over a hotter part of the fire. Add this 
 mixture to the Spanish sauce. Simmer for three minutes, 
 and serve. This sauce is suitable for rich entrees or 
 steaks. 
 
 Mushroom Brown Sauce. 
 
 For a pint and a half of sauce, use one quart of rich 
 consomme", half a pound of fresh mushrooms, or one can 
 
466 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 and a half of mushrooms, one sour apple, baked, six 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, five of flour, a slight grating 
 of nutmeg, two level teaspoonfuls of salt, and half a 
 teaspoonful of flour. 
 
 Put the butter into a stew-pan, and place it on the 
 fire; when hot and beginning to brown, add the flour, 
 and stir until a dark brown. Draw the stew-pan back 
 to a cool place, and stir until the contents are slightly 
 cooled. Add gradually the stock, and stir until it boils ; 
 then add the seasoning, the baked apple, and half a cup- 
 ful of chopped mushrooms. Set back where the sauce 
 will just bubble at one side of the stew-pan for two 
 hours. At the end of that time skim off the butter, 
 and strain the sauce into another stew-pan. Add the 
 remainder of the mushrooms and three table-spoonfuls 
 of consomme. 
 
 If the mushrooms be fresh, they must be pared and 
 cut into small pieces. They should simmer for ten 
 minutes in the hot sauce. If canned mushrooms be 
 used, they may be cooked whole, and only for five 
 minutes. 
 
 Simple Mushroom Sauce. 
 
 Make a plain brown sauce ; add one can of mushrooms 
 to it, and simmer for five minutes. 
 
 Mushroom White Sauce. 
 
 Make a white sauce; after straining, add a can of 
 mushrooms, and cook for five minutes longer. 
 
 Supreme Sauce. 
 
 For one quart of this sauce use one pint of rich chicken 
 stock, two pounds of shin of veal, one quart of water, 
 one teacupful of butter, five table-spoonfuls of flour, one 
 small onion, one slice of carrot, two cloves, a bit of mace, 
 
MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. 467 
 
 a slight grating of nutmeg, one bay leaf, a sprig of pars- 
 ley, two level teaspooufuls of salt, one-third of a tea- 
 spoonful of white pepper, and half a pint of chopped 
 mushrooms. 
 
 Cut the veal in small pieces, and put it into a stew-pan 
 with the quart of cold water, the spice and vegetables. 
 Cook slowly for four hours. Strain, and put away to 
 cool ; when cool, skim carefully. Add this stock (which 
 should be a clear jelly) to the chicken stock. Put the 
 butter into a stew-pan, and on the fire ; when it be- 
 comes hot, but not brown, add the flour, and stir until 
 smooth and frothy. Draw the pan back, and stir until 
 the mixture cools slightly ; then gradually add the veal 
 and chicken stocks. Stir until this boils; add the 
 chopped mushrooms, salt, and pepper. Move the sauce- 
 pan back where the heat will be just enough to keep 
 the sauce bubbling at one side of the pan. Cook with the 
 cover off the stew-pan for two hours ; then skim off the 
 butter and strain the sauce through a fine sieve. 
 
 This sauce should be clear and velvety. To obtain this 
 result, great care must be taken to have the stock used 
 rich and clear, and to have the simmering done slowly. 
 
 * Brown Sauce. 
 
 For one pint of sauce use one pint of clear brown 
 stock, three generous table-spoonfuls of butter, three 
 level table-spoonfuls of flour, two of chopped onion, one 
 of chopped carrot, one clove, one teaspoonful of salt, and 
 a little pepper. 
 
 Cook the vegetables and the butter together, slowly, 
 for half an hour ; then draw the stew-pan forward to a 
 hot part of the range. Stir until the preparation is 
 slightly browned ; then add the flour, and stir until that 
 is browned. Draw the stew-pan back, and let it cool 
 slightly, stirring the contents all the while; gradually 
 add the stock, and stir until it boils. Add the salt, 
 
468 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 pepper, and clove, and set the stew-pan back where the 
 mixture will simmer for twenty minutes. Strain, skim 
 off the fat, and serve. 
 
 This gives a somewhat thick sauce. If a thinner sauce 
 be liked, use only two table-spoonfuls of flour. This 
 sauce may have added to it the trimmings of mushrooms, 
 a bay leaf, a sprig of parsley, or, indeed, any seasoning 
 that one may choose. 
 
 * Brown Sauce for Fish. 
 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of pork fat into a small frying- 
 pan, and when it is melted, add two slices of onion, one 
 of carrot, a bay leaf, and a sprig of parsley. Stir for 
 three minutes; then add a heaping table-spoonful of 
 flour, and stir until the sauce becomes dark brown. Add 
 a cupful of stock, and cook three minutes longer. Sea- 
 son with a table-spoonful of lemon juice, and salt and 
 pepper to suit the taste. 
 
 Clear Brown Sauce. 
 
 Use a table-spoonful of beef extract, one table-spoonful 
 and a half of arrowroot, one cupful and a half of water, 
 a clove, a bay leaf, a small slice of onion, a thin slice of 
 carrot about the size of a quarter of a dollar, a teaspoon- 
 ful of butter, and salt and pepper to suit the taste. 
 
 Mix the arrowroot with half a cupful of boiling water, 
 and boil for five minutes; then add all the other in- 
 gredients except the butter; and after cooking gently 
 for ten minutes, add the butter. Boil up once, and 
 strain. 
 
 In this sauce consomme may be substituted for the 
 beef extract and water. 
 
 * A Simple Sauce for Poultry. 
 
 Use a pint of stock (the water in which a fowl was 
 boiled, or gtpck made by covering the bones of roast 
 
MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. 469 
 
 chicken with cold water and cooking them for two 
 hours), half a pint of milk or cream, a slice of onion the 
 size of half a dollar, a slice of carrot, a clove, a tiny bit 
 of mace, three table-spoonfuls of butter, three of flour, 
 a heaping teaspoonful of salt, and one-fourth of a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper. 
 
 Put the butter and flour into a small saucepan, and rub 
 them until creamy ; then add the stock, vegetables, and 
 spice, and place the pan on the fire. Stir the mixture 
 occasionally until it begins to boil ; then set it back 
 where it will just simmer for half an hour. At the end 
 of that time add the dressing and cream or milk. Let 
 the sauce boil up once ; then strain it, and it will be 
 ready for use. It will be found nice to serve with boiled 
 fowl or to warm cold poultry in, giving a delicious fri- 
 cassee. Cold veal also may be warmed in it. If one 
 intend to do this, the bones and hard bits of veal should 
 be boiled for stock. If one choose, the quantity of 
 butter mentioned at the outset may be reduced one-half, 
 but in that case the flour must be wet with stock when 
 it is put into the saucepan. 
 
 * White Sauce. 
 
 Into a frying-pan put three table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 one of chopped onion, one of chopped carrot, two of 
 chopped celery, a bay leaf, a sprig of parsley and a sprig 
 of thyme, and simmer slowly for ten minutes, being 
 careful not to brown ; then add three table-spoonfuls of 
 flour, and stir until smooth and frothy. Draw the pan 
 back to a cooler place, and gradually add a pint of white 
 stock. Stir until smooth, and then add salt and pepper. 
 Boil for five minutes, and add half a cupful of cream 
 or milk. Boil up once, and after straining, use it. This 
 is good for boiled fish or poultry, and is also a nice sauce 
 in which to heat cold fish or meat. 
 
470 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Another receipt : Use a cupful of white stock, a cupful 
 of cream, one table-spoonful of chopped onion, one of 
 lemon juice, two of butter, two of flour, a teaspoonful of 
 salt, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
 Cook the butter and onion together, slowly, for ten 
 minutes ; then add the flour, and cook until the mixture 
 is smooth and frothy, probably about half a minute will 
 suffice. At this point gradually add the stock ; and after 
 simmering for ten minutes, put in the cream, salt, and 
 pepper. Boil up once, and strain through a sieve ; then 
 add the lemon juice. 
 
 This sauce is nice for boiled, baked, and broiled fish, 
 and is quite necessary for the finishing touch to halibut 
 a la poulette. Make it while the fish is baking. 
 
 *Poulette Sauce. 
 
 This is nice with boiled fowl or boiled fish, and may 
 be used with any kind of delicate meat, fish, or vege- 
 tables. To make it, take half a cupful of butter, three 
 table-spoonfuls of flour, the yolks of three eggs, one pint 
 of stock or water, one table-spoonful of lemon juice, one- 
 eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper, and one level tea- 
 spoonful of salt. 
 
 Beat the butter and flour together until smooth and 
 light ; then add the salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Grad- 
 ually pour the boiling stock or water upon this mixture, 
 and simmer for ten minutes. Meanwhile beat the yolks 
 of the eggs in a small saucepan. Gradually pour the 
 sauce upon them. Set the saucepan in another contain- 
 ing boiling water, and stir for a minute and a half ; then 
 
 remove from the stove without delay. 
 
 ' 
 
 Bechamel Yellow Sauce. 
 
 Put three table-spoonfuls of butter into a saucepan, 
 and beat to a cream ; then add three level table-spoonfuls 
 
MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. 471 
 
 of flour, and beat both articles together. Add ten pepper- 
 corns, a small piece of mace, a small slice of carrot, half 
 an onion, and a pint of white stock. Tie together a bay 
 leaf, two sprigs of parsley, and one of thyme, and put the 
 bunch into the saucepan with the other ingredients. 
 Simmer for twenty minutes ; then strain, and put over 
 the fire again. Add half a cupful of cream, and salt and 
 pepper to meet your taste. Beat together the yolks of 
 four eggs and half a cupful of cold cream. Stir this 
 mixture into the sauce ; and after the sauce has been 
 heated to the boiling-point, cook two minutes longer, 
 stirring all the time. 
 
 Sauce Allemand. 
 
 Pat into a saucepan four table-spoonfuls of butter, one 
 slice of carrot, one of turnip, two of onion, two cloves, a 
 small piece of mace, a sprig of parsley, and one bay leaf, 
 and cook slowly for twenty minutes, being careful not to 
 brown; then add two heaping table-spoonfuls of flour, 
 and stir until smooth and frothy, at- which time add a 
 pint of white stock, very slowly. Let the sauce boil 
 gently for five minutes ; then strain it, and return to the 
 fire. Beat together the yolks of six eggs and half a cup- 
 ful of cream. Add to the sauce a slight grating of 
 nutmeg, one table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a table- 
 spoonful of butter, and salt and pepper to suit the taste. 
 Place the basin containing the sauce in another of boiling 
 water. Stir the beaten cream and eggs into the sauce, 
 and cook for three minutes, stirring all the while. Ee- 
 move from the fire, and stir into the sauce the juice of 
 half a lemon. Use the sauce at once. 
 
 Dutch Sauce. 
 
 Rub together two table-spoonfuls of butter and two 
 scant table-spoonfuls of flour until they become smooth 
 and creamy; then add a cupful and a half of white 
 
472 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 stock, and simmer for ten minutes. Season with a level 
 teaspoonful of salt and one-eighth of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, and add the yolks of three eggs beaten with 
 half a cupful of cream. Set the basin containing these 
 ingredients into another of boiling water, and stir con- 
 stantly for three minutes ; and after a table-spoonful of 
 lemon juice has been added, the sauce is finished by 
 straining. It is delicious with any kind of fish. 
 
 Bearnaise Sauce. 
 
 This sauce is made of the yolks of four eggs, four 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, one- 
 fifth of a teaspoonful of pepper, one table-spoonful of 
 tarragon vinegar, one teaspoonful each of chopped pars- 
 ley and tarragon, and one teaspoonful of onion juice. 
 
 Put the butter into a hot cup, and stir until soft and 
 creamy. Put the yolks of the eggs and the salt and 
 pepper into a small granite-ware or tin saucepan, and 
 beat with a Dover beater until the eggs beconie light ; 
 then add the butter in three parts, beating each time 
 until the mixture is smooth. Now add the vinegar, and 
 beat again. Chop the tarragon and parsley, to have it 
 ready for use. 
 
 Place the saucepan containing the sauce in another of 
 boiling water, and cook for three minutes, beating con- 
 stantly with an egg-beater. Take from the fire at the 
 end of that time, and add the chopped parsley and 
 tarragon. Of course, when tarragon is out of season, 
 parsley must suffice. The sauce should be used as soon 
 as finished. 
 
 Hollandaise Sauce. 
 
 For half a pint of sauce use half a cupful of butter, 
 one-third of a cupful of boiling water, the yolks of four 
 uncooked eggs, one table-spoonful and a half of lemon 
 juice, half a teaspoonful of salt, and one-tenth of a tea- 
 spoonful of cayenne. 
 
MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. 473 
 
 Fill a pint bowl with warm water ; immediately pour 
 out the water and wipe the bowl. Put the butter into 
 the bowl, and beat it until soft and creamy; add the 
 yolks of the eggs, one by one, and beat until they are 
 blended with the butter ; add the lemon juice and the 
 salt and pepper, and beat until again smooth. Then 
 take out the spoon, and beat the mixture with the Dover 
 beater for five minutes. Place the bowl in a pan of 
 boiling water, being careful not to have the water come 
 so high that it will boil into the bowl j add one-third of 
 a cupful of boiling water, and cook until the sauce is as 
 thick as a Mayonnaise sauce, beating constantly with the 
 Dover beater. Take from the fire, and it is ready to 
 serve. 
 
 This sauce may be served with all kinds of fish, with 
 iillets and steaks, and also with some vegetables. When 
 it is served with boiled fish, half a pint of shrimp or 
 lobster, cut into dice, may be added to it. Or, if con- 
 venient, a table-spoonful of ravigote may be added to it. 
 
 Ravigote. 
 
 This is a combination of four herbs. It is used in 
 sauces and salads. Mince separately one table-spoonful 
 each of chives, chervil, tarragon, and burnet. Mix them 
 together, and you have a ravigote. The meaning of the 
 word is " to revive, strengthen, or invigorate." 
 
 Ravigote Butter. 
 
 Put half a cupful of butter into a warm bowl, and beat 
 it to a cream ; add half a teaspoonful of salt, one tea- 
 spoonful of lemon juice, one-third of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, and one table- spoonful of ravigote. 
 
 This butter may be spread on broiled fish or meat of 
 any kind. It may be added to a white or Bechamel 
 sauce, and this will give a ravigote sauce. 
 
474 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Ravigote Sauce. 
 
 For this there will be needed four table-spoonfuls of 
 butter, three scant table-spoonfuls of flour, three pepper- 
 corns, half a good-sized onion, a slice of carrot, a bit 
 of mace, a bay leaf, a sprig of parsley, a sprig of thyme, 
 a cupful of cream, two cupfuls of chicken stock, a table- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, a slight grating of nutmeg, 
 and salt and pepper. 
 
 Eub together the flour and three table-spoonfuls of the 
 butter, and add all the other ingredients except the 
 cream, chopped parsley, and the remainder of the butter. 
 Simmer for half an hour, being careful that there is no 
 burning. In the mean time pound the spoonful of 
 butter and the chopped parsley in a mortar, and when 
 the mixture looks rather smooth and green, scrape all of 
 it from the mortar and add it to the sauce. Then add 
 the cream ; and if there be not seasoning enough, put in 
 a little more salt and pepper. When the sauce boils up, 
 strain it, and it will be ready for use. This is a delicious 
 sauce for all kinds of delicate fish and meats. 
 
 Chestnut White Sauce. 
 
 Use thirty French chestnuts, one pint of milk, one 
 table-spoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, one- 
 fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
 Shell and blanch the chestnuts. Boil them, in water 
 enough to cover, for half an hour ; drain off the water, 
 and then pound the nuts to a paste. Add the butter, 
 salt, pepper, and the milk, a little at a time, pounding 
 all the while; rub through a puree sieve, and cook for 
 half an hour in a double-boiler. This sauce may be 
 served with boiled turkey or fowl. 
 
 Chestnut Brown Sauce, 
 
 Use thirty French chestnuts, one pint of brown stock, 
 one table-spoonful of butter, one of flour, one teaspoonful 
 of salt, and one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. 475 
 
 Shell, blanch, cook, drain, and pound the chestnuts ; 
 add the seasoning and the stock, a little at a time, 
 pounding all the while. Rub the preparation through a 
 sieve ; put the mixture into a stew-pan, and cook gently 
 for half an hour. Then put the butter on the fire in a 
 small frying-pan, and when it is hot and beginning to 
 brown, add the flour; stir until the mixture is a dark 
 brown, and then add it to the chestnut mixture. Cook 
 five minutes, and serve. This sauce is suitable for roast 
 turkey or chicken. 
 
 Asparagus Sauce. 
 
 This is nice to serve with broiled delicate meats or 
 fish, and is also appropriate for use with roast chicken. 
 It requires the tender green heads from a bunch of 
 asparagus, a pint of white stock, a slice of onion, a small 
 slice of carrot, a bay leaf, a tiny bit of mace, a sprig of 
 parsley, two generous table-spoonfuls of butter, two of 
 flour, and salt and pepper to suit the taste. 
 
 Put the butter and flour into a saucepan, and rub them 
 to a cream ; then add the seasoning and stock. Heat 
 the mixture slowly, stirring frequently ; and when it 
 begins to boil, set it back where it will only simmer for 
 twenty minutes. Meanwhile wash the asparagus tops, 
 and put them into a saucepan with a cupful of boiling 
 water, half a teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful 
 of lemon juice or vinegar. Cover closely, and boil for 
 twelve minutes ; then drain off the water, and rub the 
 asparagus through a fine sieve. Strain upon it the con- 
 tents of the other pan, and heat to the boiling-point, but 
 not beyond ; for much cooking would destroy the deli- 
 cate green color of the asparagus. 
 
 * Oyster Sauce. 
 
 This is made of a solid pint of oysters, half a pint of 
 chicken stock, a table-spoonful of lemon juice, four table- 
 
476 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 spoonfuls of butter, two of flour, and salt and pepper in 
 quantities to suit the taste. 
 
 Put the stock on the stove to boil, and set the oys- 
 ters on to heat in their own liquor. Beat the butter and 
 flour together until light and creamy. Pour the hot 
 chicken stock on the mixture, and after stirring well, set 
 on the stove to simmer. When the oysters have become 
 heated to the boiling-point, skim off the froth and put 
 the oysters into a strainer. Pour the oyster liquor into 
 the cooking mixture, being careful to prevent any shells 
 or sand from passing with the liquor. Cook for ten 
 minutes ; then add the oysters, some salt and pepper, and 
 the lemon juice. This sauce should be served hot. 
 
 Put one pint of small oysters into a stew-pan, and heat 
 them in their own liquor to the boiling-point. As soon 
 as they begin to boil, remove from the fire and skim care 
 fully ; then drain the liquor into another stew-pan. Beat 
 to a cream one-third of a cupful of butter, and three 
 table-spoonfuls of flour. Add to the oyster liquor one 
 cupful of milk, and when the mixture has been heated 
 to the boiling-point, stir in the creamed butter and flour. 
 Let the sauce boil up once, and season with salt and 
 pepper ; then add the oysters. This sauce is to be served 
 with boiled fish. 
 
 Lobster Sauce. 
 
 For a pint and a half of sauce, use a lobster weighing 
 two and a half pounds. Make the lobster butter as 
 directed on page 478. 
 
 Cut the tender est part of the claws into dice. Chop 
 the remainder of the lobster meat, and put it into a stew- 
 pan with one quart of water ; simmer for one hour. Put 
 four table-spoonfuls of butter into a stew-pan on the 
 fire, and when hot, add three generous table-spoonfuls 
 of flour, and stir until smooth and frothy. Then add, 
 
MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. 477 
 
 gradually, the lobster liquor, stirring all the while. Stir 
 until the mixture boils ; add a teaspoonf ul and a half of 
 salt, half a saltspoonful of cayenne, a table-spoonful of 
 lemon juice, and the lobster butter. Cook for five 
 minutes. 
 
 Put the lobster dice into a small saucepan ; strain the 
 sauce on it, and place on the fire. Boil up once, and 
 serve. This sauce may be served with any kind of boiled 
 fish. 
 
 Shrimp Sauce. 
 
 After beating a cupful of butter to a cream, add two 
 table-spoonfuls of flour, and beat until light and smooth ; 
 then add two table-spoonfuls of essence of anchovy and 
 one table-spoonful of lemon juice. Pour upon this mix- 
 ture a pint of boiling water. Heat the sauce to the boil- 
 ing-point without actually allowing it to boil ; then add 
 half a pint of fresh or canned shrimp, with the tails cut 
 in two, and a grain of cayenne. Let the sauce get very 
 hot, and use at once. 
 
 Use two dozen shrimp, and proceed as for lobster sauce, 
 using half a dozen of the shrimp to cut into dice and 
 add last. 
 
 Anchovy Sauce. 
 
 Put four table-spoonfuls of butter into a stew-pan, and 
 place on the fire. When the butter is melted, add three 
 table-spoonfuls of flour. Stir until smooth and frothy. 
 Cool a little, and then add, gradually, one pint of white 
 stock or water. Stir until this boils ; then add one- 
 fourth of a saltspoonful each of white and cayenne 
 pepper, the anchovy butter, a table-spoonful of lemon 
 juice, and salt enough to season the sauce. As the an- 
 chovy butter is salted, one must taste the sauce to 
 ascertain how much salt to use. This sauce may be 
 used with all kinds of fish dishes. 
 
478 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Anchovy Butter. 
 
 Pour the brine from a bottle of anchovies, and soak 
 the fish for two hours in cold water. Drain and wipe 
 them. Remove the bones, and place the fish in a mortar, 
 with two table-spoonfuls of butter. Pound to a smooth 
 paste, and rub through a fine sieve. 
 
 Work three table-spoonfuls of butter and a grain of 
 cayenne into the strained mixture. If the butter is to 
 be used on toast, a teaspoonful of lemon juice may be 
 added. This butter may be used in various kinds of 
 fish sauces. 
 
 Shrimp Butter. 
 
 Use five table-spoonfuls of butter, one dozen shrimp, 
 the shells of the shrimp, and a grain of cayenne. 
 
 Put the shells and three table-spoonfuls of butter into 
 the mortar, and pound to a powder. Put this into a 
 small saucepan, and place this in another containing boil- 
 ing water. Cook for one hour. Press the mixture 
 through a piece of cheese-cloth into a bowl of ice-water. 
 It will form in little cakes on the water ; skim these off. 
 Put the meat of the shrimp and the two remaining spoon- 
 fuls of butter into the mortar, and pound to a paste. 
 Add the red butter, which was obtained by pounding and 
 cooking the shells and butter together. Pound a little 
 longer, and then rub the mixture through a fine sieve. 
 
 This butter gives color and body to a shrimp sauce. 
 If lobster coral can be obtained, pound two table-spoon- 
 fuls of it with the butter, and then add the fish and the 
 remainder of the butter, and pound all together until a 
 paste is formed. Of course, the shells and cooking will 
 not be necessary in this case. 
 
 Lobster Butter. 
 
 Pound the coral of a lobster with two table-spoonfuls 
 of butter until a smooth paste is made j then add three 
 
MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. 479 
 
 table-spoonfuls of chopped lobster and one of butter, 
 and continue pounding until the whole mass is a smooth 
 paste. Rub this through a fine sieve. This butter is 
 used in lobster soups and sauces to give color and rich- 
 ness. Should there be no coral, pound small lobster 
 claws and the butter together, and proceed as for shrimp 
 butter. 
 
 Tartar Green Sauce. 
 
 The yolks of two uncooked eggs, one gill and a half of 
 olive oil, one table-spoonful of lemon juice, two of vine- 
 gar, one of mustard, half a teaspoonful of sugar, one 
 teaspoonful of salt, one-tenth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, 
 one teaspoonful of onion juice, two table-spoonfuls of 
 capers, two of cucumber pickles, one of butter, and one 
 teaspoonful of chopped parsley will be needed. 
 
 Put the chopped parsley and the butter into the mortar, 
 and pound until the mixture is a smooth paste ; this 
 will require hard blows. Then rub the paste through a 
 small strainer ; the strainer will be used again for the 
 pickles and capers. Pound the capers and pickles to a 
 paste in the mortar, and rub them through the strainer 
 into the same bowl with the parsley and butter. Keep 
 this mixture cool. Put a small smooth-bottomed bowl 
 in a tin pan, and surround it with cold water about an 
 inch deep ; add a few pieces of ice. Put the dry ingre- 
 dients and the yolks of eggs into the bowl. Beat with 
 the Dover beater until the mixture is thick and ropy ; 
 it will take from three to five minutes for this. Then 
 add the oil, a few drops at a time, until the mixture is 
 so thick that the beater turns with difficulty ; then add 
 the oil in larger quantities, say a table-spoonful at a 
 time. When the mixture is thick, add one teaspoonful 
 of the vinegar ; continue in this way until all the oil and 
 vinegar are used ; then add the lemon juice, and finally 
 the onion juice and the strained mixture. 
 
 This sauce should be thick and smooth when done. 
 
480 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 It surely will be a success if the dry mixture and yolks 
 of eggs be beaten thick before the oil is added, and if 
 the oil be added only a few drops at a time until 
 the mixture is thick and ropy. After this the oil may 
 be added in generous quantities. Unless the first of the 
 work be done right, no amount of care later will give a 
 thick, smooth sauce. 
 
 Tartar Butter Sauce. 
 
 Use the yolks of three uncooked eggs, three-fourths of 
 a cupful of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, one-fifth of 
 a teaspoonful of cayenne, one teaspoonful of sugar, one 
 table-spoonful of mustard, four table-spoonfuls of vine- 
 gar, one of lemon juice, one generous table-spoonful each 
 of chopped cucumber pickles and capers. 
 
 Pour boiling water into a small bowl, and immediately 
 turn it out again. Wipe the bowl and put the butter in 
 it. With a spoon beat the butter to a smooth soft cream. 
 Put the egg yolks and the dry ingredients into another 
 bowl, and beat rapidly for five minutes with the Dover 
 beater ; then add the creamed butter, a spoonful at a 
 time. Beat well after the addition of each spoonful. 
 When all the butter has been used, add the vinegar and 
 lemon juice, a little at a time, beating very thoroughly 
 after each portion is added. When the mixture is smooth 
 and light, add the chopped ingredients. This sauce is 
 nice with fried or broiled meat or fish. 
 
 Remoulade Sauce. 
 
 Use the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs and the yolk of 
 one raw egg, a scant half-pint of oil, three table-spoonfuls 
 of tarragon vinegar, three of plain vinegar, one teaspoon- 
 ful of mustard, half a teaspoonful of salt, one-third 
 of a teaspoonful of white pepper, and one teaspoonful 
 of chopped parsley. 
 
 Work the cooked yolks of the eggs with a fork on a 
 plate until they are perfectly smooth j then put them 
 
MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. 481 
 
 into a bowl with the uncooked yolk and the seasoning. 
 Add two table-spoonfuls of the vinegar, and beat with 
 the Dover beater for five minutes. Then add the oil, 
 a teaspoonful at a time, beating two or three minutes 
 between each addition to the mixture. After five tea- 
 spoonfuls have been added in this manner the oil may 
 be added in quantities three or four times as large. 
 Whenever the sauce becomes so thick that the beater 
 turns hard, add half a table-spoonful of vinegar. When 
 all the oil and vinegar have been used, add the chopped 
 parsley. This sauce is suitable for fried and broiled 
 meat or fish j it is used also as a dressing for salads. 
 
 * Soubise Sauce. 
 
 This is made of a pint of pared and sliced white onions, 
 three table-spoonfuls of butter, one gill of white stock, 
 two gills of milk or cream, one table-spoonful of flour, 
 one level teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth of a teaspoonful 
 of pepper, and half a teaspoonful of sugar. . 
 
 Put the onion into a stew-pan with one quart of boiling 
 water, and boil gently for half an hour. Then, after 
 draining off all the water, add the sugar and one table- 
 spoonful of the butter. Cover the stew-pan, and set it 
 where its contents will cook slowly for one hour, being 
 careful that they do not become browned. At the end 
 of the hour rub the onion through a fine sieve. Return 
 the strained mixture to the stew-pan, and after adding 
 the stock, milk, salt, and pepper, set the pan on the fire. 
 Now beat together the flour and the two remaining table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, and stir this mixture into that which 
 is in the pan when the latter boils. Cook for five min- 
 utes, stirring frequently, and have it very hot when it is 
 poured around the meat. This sauce is served with 
 mutton or pork. 
 
 Breton Sauce. 
 
 Use one generous pint of peeled and sliced onion, one 
 pint of Spanish sauce, three table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 
 31 
 
482 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 one teaspoonful of sugar, one of salt, and one-fourth of a 
 teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
 Put the butter, onions, sugar, salt, and pepper into a 
 small frying-pan, and cook slowly for one hour, stirring 
 frequently. At the end of that time draw the pan for- 
 ward, and stir the onion constantly until it is brown; 
 then rub it through a strainer into a saucepan ; add the 
 Spanish sauce, place on the fire, and stir constantly until 
 the sauce boils. This sauce is served with roast, broiled, 
 or breaded mutton. 
 
 * Butter Sauce. 
 
 Beat together half a cupful of butter and one table- 
 spoonful of flour. Pour on this mixture half a pint of 
 boiling water. Place the saucepan on the fire, and stir 
 constantly until the sauce boils ; then take from the fire 
 immediately. 
 
 * Egg Sauce. 
 
 Stir three hard-boiled eggs, chopped rather fine, into 
 the butter sauce. 
 
 * Cream Sauce. 
 
 Put three table-spoonfuls of butter into a frying-pan, 
 and place on the fire. When the butter is hot, add two 
 level table-spoonfuls of flour. Stir this until smooth and 
 frothy ; then draw the pan back, and gradually add one 
 pint of cold milk. Eeplace the pan on a hot part of 
 the stove, and stir the sauce until it boils. Add one tea- 
 spoonful of salt and about one-fourth of a teaspoonful 
 of pepper; simmer three minutes, and it is ready for 
 use. A few drops of onion juice will improve this sauce. 
 
 A teaspoonful of minced parsley may be added when 
 this sauce is to be used for fish or potatoes. 
 
 * Bread Sauce. 
 
 Use a cupful and a half of dry bread, one pint of 
 stock, a large slice of onion, two generous table-spoonful* 
 
MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. 488 
 
 of butter, one teaspoonf ill of salt, and half a teaspoonful 
 of pepper. 
 
 Put the bread on a board, and crush it lightly with a 
 rolling-pin. Put this into a sieve, and sift all the fine 
 crumbs through ; there should be half a cupful of these. 
 Put them in the double-boiler, with the onion, salt, 
 pepper, and stock ; cook for half an hour ; at the end 
 of that time take out the onion, and add one table-spoon- 
 ful of the butter. The sauce is then ready to serve. 
 
 While the sauce is cooking, put one table-spoonful of 
 butter into a frying-pan, and place on the fire. When the 
 butter is hot, add the coarse crumbs that did not go 
 through the sieve. Stir over a hot fire until the crumbs 
 are brown and crisp. This work must be done carefully 
 in order that the crumbs shall be crisp and brown and 
 yet not be burned. 
 
 Bread sauce is served with grouse, quail, partridge, 
 ptarmigan, roast chicken, and turkey. The sauce and 
 fried crumbs may be served in separate dishes ; or the 
 sauce may be spread on a meat dish, and the birds be 
 placed on this, and the birds and sauce sprinkled with 
 the crumbs. If stock cannot be obtained, substitute a 
 generous pint of milk. 
 
 * 
 * Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Use one pint of stewed and strained tomatoes, half a 
 pint of stock, three table-spoonfuls of butter, two gener- 
 ous table-spoonfuls of flour, one slice of onion, one of 
 carrot, one generous teaspoonful of salt, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper. 
 
 Cook the butter, onion, and carrot together for ten 
 minutes ; add the flour, and stir until frothy ; then add" 
 the stock, stirring all the while. When smooth, add the 
 tomato, salt, and pepper. Simmer for ten minutes ; strain, 
 
 and serve. 
 
 . 
 
484 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Matelote Sauce. 
 
 The materials of which this sauce is made are : a pint 
 of stock, an onion, a slice of carrot, a teaspoonful of 
 chopped parsley, three table-spoonfuls of butter, two 
 of flour, two of lemon juice, half a teaspoonful of sugar, 
 a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper. 
 
 Put the sugar into a stew-pan, and as soon as it begins 
 to smoke, add the butter, and then the onion and carrot, 
 cut fine. Cook slowly for ten minutes ; then add the 
 flour, and stir until smooth. Now add the stock, salt, 
 and pepper, and after boiling up once, set back where 
 the sauce will only simmer for twenty minutes. At the 
 end of that time strain it, and add the lemon juice and 
 parsley. Boil two minutes longer. 
 
 * Hot Mustard Sauce. 
 
 For a generous half-pint of sauce, use one table-spoon- 
 ful each of mustard, butter, flour, and tarragon vinegar, 
 one slice of onion, one clove of garlic, half a teaspoonful 
 of salt, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, half a 
 pint of stock, and two table-spoonfuls of cold water. 
 
 Cook the butter, onion, garlic, and vinegar over a 
 rather hot fire for five minutes ; then add the flour, and 
 stir until smooth and frothy. Draw the saucepan back 
 to a cooler part of the fire, and gradually add the stock. 
 Mix the mustard with the cold water, and add this and 
 the salt and pepper to the sauce. Boil for five minutes ; 
 strain, and serve. This sauce is for roast beef or veal. 
 
 * Mustard Cream Sauce. 
 
 This is made of a cupful of milk, three table-spoonfuls 
 of butter, one level table-spoonful of flour, one teaspoonful 
 of mustard, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a grain of 
 cayenne. Put the milk on the stove in a double-boiler. 
 
MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. 485 
 
 Beat the butter, flour, and mustard to a cream, and grad- 
 ually pour upon this cream the boiling milk. Add the 
 salt and pepper, and put the sauce on the stove in the 
 double-boiler, to cook gently for three minutes. It will 
 be found nice to serve with roast clams as well as with 
 baked crabs. 
 
 * Horseradish Sauce. 
 
 . 
 
 Mix together two table-spoonfuls of grated horseradish, 
 one teaspoonful of mustard, two table-spoonfuls of vin- 
 egar, four of cream, and a saltspoonful of salt. Serve 
 with roast beef or cold or broiled veal. 
 
 Currant-Jelly Sauce. 
 
 Put three table-spoonfuls of butter and one of chopped 
 onion into a frying-pan, and cook until the onion begins 
 to brown ; then add a table-spoonful of flour, a bay leaf, a 
 sprig of parsley, and two whole cloves. Stir until the 
 mixture becomes dark brown, and then slowly add three 
 gills of soup stock. When the sauce boils up, add a 
 table-spoonful of lemon juice, half a cupful of currant 
 jelly, and salt and pepper to suit the taste. After sim- 
 mering for three minutes, strain and use it. This sauce 
 is for venison. 
 
 Claret Sauce. 
 
 The materials required are a tumbler of stock, a tum- 
 bler of claret, half a tumbler of currant jelly, four cloves, 
 two table-spoonfuls of butter, one of flour, one teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, half a 
 teaspoonful of lemon juice, and a bay leaf. 
 
 Put the butter on the stove in a small frying-pan, and 
 when it gets hot, add the flour. Stir the mixture until 
 it turns brown ; then draw the pan to the back part 
 of the range, and gradually add the stock. Let the sauce 
 boil up ; then add all the other ingredients except the 
 
486 MISS PABLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 claret. Let the sauce simmer for a quarter of an hour ; 
 then add the wine, and boil up once. Strain the sauce, 
 and serve it hot. 
 
 Orange Sauce. 
 
 This is designed to go with roast duck. In making 
 enough for a pair of ducks, take half a pint of stock, two 
 large table-spoonfuls of butter, one table-spoonful of 
 flour, half a teaspoonful of sugar, a large slice of onion, 
 the juice and a quarter of the rind of a Seville orange, 
 a grain of cayenne, and one-third of a teaspoonful of 
 salt. 
 
 Cook the butter and onion together until the latter 
 begins to turn yellow ; then add the flour, and cook until 
 the mixture becomes dark brown. Draw the frying-pan 
 to the back part of the stove, and gradually add the half- 
 pint of stock. Now add the orange rind, salt, pepper, 
 and sugar. Let the sauce simmer for ten minutes ; then 
 add the orange juice, and cook two minutes longer. 
 Strain and use. 
 
 If you cannot get a Seville orange, use the juice of a 
 common orange and one-fourth of the rind, and a tea- 
 spoonful of the juice of a lemon. Or the grape fruit, 
 which resembles the shaddock, will answer; it has a 
 little of the peculiar bitter flavor that makes the Seville 
 orange desirable. 
 
 Sometimes half a pint of clear stock is seasoned with 
 salt, pepper, and a gill of port ; then the juice of half an 
 orange is added; the remaining half of the orange is 
 freed of skin and cut into bits ; and after the sauce has 
 boiled up once, these morsels of fruit are added, and it 
 is served hot with roast duck. 
 
 * Piquant Sauce. 
 
 This is intended to be an accompaniment for roast and 
 broiled meats, and some kinds of fish. It makes an 
 
MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. 487 
 
 agreeable change from mint sauce, when served with 
 roast lamb. The ingredients are : a pint of stock, four 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, three of flour, four of vinegar, 
 one of chopped onion, two of chopped capers, two of 
 chopped cucumber pickle, one teas^oonful of sugar, one 
 of salt, and one-tenth of a teaspoonful of cayenne. 
 
 Put the butter on the stove in a frying-pan, and when 
 it gets hot and begins to turn brown, add the flour. 
 Stir the mixture until the flour is dark brown; then 
 draw the pan back to a cooler place, and gradually add 
 the stock, stirring all the time. Add also the salt and 
 pepper, and draw the pan to a place where its contents 
 will boil gently for ten minutes. Meanwhile put the 
 onion, vinegar, and sugar into a saucepan, and boil rap- 
 idly for five minutes ; and at the end of the ten minutes 
 mentioned in the preceding sentence, add these ingre- 
 dients to the sauce, together with the capers and pickle. 
 Boil rapidly for three minutes, and the work will be 
 finished. 
 
 * Caper Sauce. 
 
 Beat to a cream two table-spoonfuls of flour and half 
 a cupful of butter, and pour upon it a pint of boiling 
 water. Set the mixture over the fire, and stir constantly 
 until it has become heated to the boiling-point. Season 
 with a little white pepper and a grain of cayenne, and 
 add a table-spoonful of lemon juice and three of capers. 
 
 * Parsley Butter. 
 
 Beat three table-spoonfuls of butter to a cream, and 
 then add one table-spoonful of lemon juice, one of 
 chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful of salt, and one- 
 eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper. Beat these ingre- 
 dients into the butter, and it will be ready for use. It 
 is nice to spread upon fried or broiled fish, and also over 
 potato balls. When intended for the latter, however, 
 half a table-spoonful of lemon juice will be enough. 
 
488 MISS PARLQA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Mint Sauce. 
 
 After rinsing some mint in cold water, place it on a 
 board, and chop it fine with a sharp knife. Put with a 
 quarter of a cupful of mint, half a cupful of vinegar and 
 one teaspoonful of sugar. The sauce should stand at 
 least ten minutes before it is used. 
 
 * Cranberry Sauce. 
 
 Pick over and wash a quart of cranberries, and after 
 putting them into a stew-pan with a scant pint of water, 
 and pouring a pint of sugar over them, cook for twenty 
 minutes, stirring often. Rinse a mould with cold water, 
 and pour the stewed cranberries into it. Set away to 
 cool and harden. 
 
 * Cranberry Jelly. 
 
 Pick over and wash a quart of cranberries. Put the 
 fruit into a stew-pan, either porcelain-lined or granite- 
 ware, and add half a pint of water and a pint of sugar. 
 Heat quickly to the boiling-point ; then stir well, press- 
 ing the berries to the sides of the stew-pan to crush 
 them. Cook for twelve minutes from the time they 
 begin to boil. Kinse a mould in cold water, and at the 
 end of the twelve minutes press the mixture through a 
 strainer. Put it into the mould immediately, and set 
 away to harden. As soon as it becomes cold it will be 
 firm. 
 
VEGETABLES. 489 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Ix the past, housekeepers have been rather neglectful 
 of opportunities offered by vegetables to vary the family 
 fare, but now-a-days, happily, they give considerable at- 
 tention to the subject. The cooking of vegetables calls 
 for the same skill and taste that are employed in making 
 a delicate dessert. Perfect cleanliness, cooking the veg- 
 etable only until it is tender, and serving it with salt 
 and sweet butter or a delicate sauce, are the things 
 necessary to secure perfection. 
 
 During the fall and summer all kinds of vegetables 
 should be abundant in every part of the country ; but for 
 many reasons vegetables often are scarce and poor where 
 they should be plentiful and good. Every farmer should 
 set apart a plat of his warmest and richest land for a 
 kitchen garden, and every farmer's wife and daughter 
 should know when vegetables are at their best, and also 
 how to cook them in the best manner. 
 
 Neglect to Gather Vegetables soon Enough. 
 
 One of the great mistakes which American gardeners 
 make consists of allowing green vegetables to grow too 
 large and rank before gathering them. Turnips, carrots, 
 beets, radishes, etc., should be gathered while they are 
 small and delicate in flavor. String beans should not 
 be picked after the seed begins to form in the pod, or 
 they will be found tough and not very digestible when 
 cooked. Pick green peas before they are fully grown. 
 When allowed to grow to a large size, they acquire a 
 strong flavor and become less digestible. Of course, 
 
490 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 such varieties as the marrowfats and champions will be 
 both large and tender. Sweet corn should have the ears 
 just filled, but the kernels should be tender and juicy. 
 
 Vegetables Best if Cooked soon after Picking. 
 
 It is surprising what a difference there is in the time 
 required for cooking many vegetables which have stood 
 a day or two after the picking, as compared with those 
 which have come fresh from the garden. For example, 
 peas that are picked in the early morning for use the 
 same day can be cooked in about half the time that 
 would be needed if the same peas were kept a day or 
 longer. Besides, the flavor of vegetables that are cooked 
 while fresh is much superior to that of those which have 
 stood for some time. 
 
 Ears of green corn that are just filled will, if plunged 
 into boiling water as soon as gathered, cook in t#n 
 minutes, or perhaps in less time ; while the same corn, if 
 kept for one or two days, will require twice as much 
 time for cooking, and will not be so tender and fine- 
 flavored as if cooked at once. This is where one having 
 a garden of her own has a great advantage of the house- 
 keeper who is obliged to get her supplies from the 
 market. Eating green peas and corn in the country 
 spoils one for anything that can be bought in a city 
 market. 
 
 A piece of cooking-soda about the size of a pea will, if 
 added to a quart of peas or beans, make them tenderer 
 and preserve the green color. It should not be added 
 until the vegetables are half cooked. 
 
 Points to be Remembered. 
 
 Some of the summer vegetables last a long time, and 
 others only a few weeks. Gardeners obtain fresh peas 
 and beans throughout the season by planting more than 
 
VEGETABLES. 491 
 
 one crop ; therefore housekeepers will do wisely to 
 avoid having either so frequently at the outset as to be- 
 come tired of them before half the summer has gone. 
 Remember, always, that a great variety of vegetables at 
 any meal is secondary to both freshness and perfect 
 cooking. There is no sauce for vegetables which can 
 rival sweet butter and a little salt. When fresh vege- 
 tables are to be cooked the water should be boiling when 
 they are put into it, and salt should not be added until 
 the cooking is nearly finished. The articles should be 
 served promptly after they have been over the fire the 
 prescribed time, for the most delicate will become dark 
 and strong-flavored if cooked too long. 
 
 It may be well to state that freshness and flavor may 
 be, in a measure, restored to wilted vegetables by the 
 use of ice-water. 
 
 Time was when all the Northern markets depended 
 upon the South for most of the fresh vegetables that 
 were sold after the frost came ; now, however, there are 
 dealers who raise the greater part of such vegetables 
 in hot-houses and cold frames, so that one may get 
 tomatoes, cucumbers, Brussels sprouts, spinach, lettuce, 
 radishes, mushrooms, etc., picked fresh each day for the 
 market. This is true, also, of the many salads, whicli 
 are not so well known as they should be. But, after 
 all, it is only the rich who can afford to buy the forced 
 vegetables. The housekeeper of moderate means may, 
 nevertheless, enjoy the pleasure of a variety, for there 
 are vegetables in abundance and at very reasonable 
 prices ; the only difficulty lies in their proper prepara- 
 tion for the table. 
 
 Few housekeepers are familiar with the changes that 
 take place in the tuberous vegetables as the season 
 advances, and continue to cook them as if they were 
 fresh from the garden. The carrots, turnips, potatoes, 
 onions, and cabbages that were crisp and delicate wheu 
 stored in the fall become somewhat wilted and quite 
 
492 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 strong-flavored by spring, and should stand in cold water 
 for several hours before being cooked. 
 
 Carrots, turnips, onions, and cabbage should be 
 cooked in a great deal of water, at least four times the 
 quantity of vegetables, and should be boiled only long- 
 enough to cook them thoroughly. Continuing to boil 
 vegetables after they are done, or cooking them in an 
 insufficient quantity of water, makes them dark and 
 gives them an unsatisfactory flavor. The average house- 
 keeper does not give half enough attention to this 
 matter. 
 
 It is a good plan to use rice, hominy, and macaroni as 
 vegetables during the winter and early spring. Remem- 
 ber that fully as acceptable a variety of dishes may be 
 obtained, from day to day, by cooking a small number of 
 vegetables in divers ways as by cooking a large number 
 in only one way. Proper cooking and good modes of 
 serving are of more account than a varied selection of 
 materials. 
 
 When Various Vegetables may be Appropri- 
 ately Used. 
 
 Inexperienced housekeepers often are much perplexed 
 in regard to vegetables ; they cannot easily decide what 
 to serve with various kinds of meat and fish, being 
 doubtful about either the vegetables themselves or the 
 most appropriate ways of serving them. In large cities 
 the housekeeper has a great variety of vegetables from 
 which to select, the year round. Scattered through the 
 twelvemonth there are about forty kinds ; and when 
 fresh vegetables cannot be had, canned goods may be 
 obtained. In the country a woman's choice is more 
 limited, though the common winter vegetables, supple- 
 mented with a few canned articles, permit of frequent 
 changes of dishes. Too many people are content to cook 
 a vegetable always by the same mode. To the average 
 
VEGETABLES. 493 
 
 housekeeper the potato appears to be about the only 
 vegetable capable of being served in a variety of forms. 
 Receipts for cooking potatoes are, to be sure, very nu- 
 merous, yet many rules can be found for nearly all com- 
 mon vegetables. 
 
 In American families of moderate means, the dinner 
 seldom consists of more than three courses ; indeed, in a 
 majority of cases there may be only two courses, meat 
 or fish with vegetables, and the dessert. The number of 
 courses increases with the amount of style in which 
 people live, though one will find that among refined 
 folk the number in a family dinner is not more than five 
 or six, and in a company luncheon or dinner not more 
 than six or eight. This is a sensible change. Time was 
 when about a dozen courses were thought to be a neces- 
 sity when guests were to be entertained. 
 
 In a two-course dinner several kinds of vegetables are 
 served at the outset, whereas in a dinner of many courses 
 only one kind of vegetable, or at the most two kinds, 
 should be provided with each dish of meat or fish. 
 
 Fish. There may be served with baked, boiled, 
 broiled, and fried fish, potatoes and tomatoes in any 
 form ; also cucumbers and green peas. When fish has 
 curry sauce as an accompaniment, it also should have 
 rice ; if it have cream sauce, any kind of potatoes except 
 fried may be served, besides onions. Fish is, however, 
 such a delicate dish that a vegetable of pronounced 
 flavor should not be served with it; therefore onions 
 should be made as delicate as possible by boiling in a 
 plentiful supply of water, changing the water several 
 times, and finally adding cream sauce to the vegetables. 
 It used to be the fashion not to serve anything with fish ; 
 but bread, potatoes in some dainty form, and green peas 
 are now provided. 
 
 Roast Beef. Any of the following-named vegetables 
 may be served with roast beef: boiled, mashed, or 
 mashed and browned potatoes, potato puffs, potatoes 
 
494 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 roasted under the meat, boiled or baked sweet potatoes, 
 squash, mashed turnips, boiled rice, boiled hominy, cauli- 
 flower, Brussels sprouts, stewed celery, boiled okra, 
 parsnips, young beets, beet greens, green corn, green 
 peas, Lima beans, shelled beans, butter beans, indeed, 
 all kinds of fresh beans, spinachj kohl-rabi, tomatoes, 
 onions. 
 
 Beefsteak. Potatoes in any form may be served with 
 beefsteak. For dinner or luncheon it is best to have 
 them baked, or mashed, or fried in balls, thin slices, or 
 by the French mode ; for breakfast or supper have them 
 fried or baked, or warmed over in some palatable form. 
 At dinner hominy or rice is a good substitute for pota- 
 toes. When steak forms a part of a dinner or luncheon, 
 any of the vegetables given with roast beef may be served 
 with it ; or vegetables a la jardiniere will be found an 
 excellent accompaniment. Again, vegetables a la mace- 
 doine may be served with steak. Cold vegetables may 
 be warmed in one of a variety of attractive modes. As- 
 paragus, salsify, mushrooms, and artichokes all are good 
 with steak. 
 
 Vegetables a la jardiniere ought always to go with 
 stewed, braised, or rolled beef, though boiled and baked 
 potatoes, rice, and hominy, turnips, parsnips, carrots, 
 peas, beans, tomatoes, and sweet potatoes all are good 
 with beef cooked in any of the three ways mentioned. 
 
 Corned Beef. There are some vegetables which appear 
 almost indispensable, potatoes, turnips, cabbage, beets, 
 and carrots. There are, however, several substitutes for 
 cabbage, such as spinach, beet greens, Brussels sprouts, 
 dandelions, chiccory, and lettuce. Kohl-rabi may take the 
 place of turnips. Parsnips and sweet potatoes are good 
 with boiled corned beef. 
 
 Mutton and Lamb. The vegetables appropriate to 
 erve with boiled mutton are boiled potatoes, turnips, 
 carrots, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, okra, salsify, onions, 
 spinach, and any kind of green beans. With roast mutton 
 
VEGETABLES. 495 
 
 serve potatoes, rice, hominy, sweet potatoes, mashed 
 turnips, onions, beans, peas, asparagus, spinach, salsify, 
 tomatoes, squash, corn, or macaroni. 
 
 Tfie vegetables suitable for serving with roast lamb are 
 potatoes, asparagus, peas, beans, spinach, lettuce, young 
 carrots, white turnips, summer squash, and salsify. 
 
 Any of the vegetables named for beefsteak may be 
 served also with mutton or lamb chops or cutlets. 
 
 Pork. With roast pork the following-named vegeta- 
 bles are appropriate : white and sweet potatoes, squash, 
 onions, turnips, carrots, parsnips, tomatoes, spinach, okra, 
 cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kohl-rabi, salsify, rice, and 
 hominy. Remember, too, that a dish of roast pork is 
 incomplete without apple sauce. 
 
 Veal. E/oast or braised veal tastes best with young 
 carrots, white turnips, or spinach. Among other vege- 
 tables very good to serve with it, are fresh beans, peas, 
 asparagus, okra, tomatoes, lettuce, dandelions, parsnips, 
 creamed cabbage, young beets, and beet greens. 
 
 Poultry and G-ame.- The most suitable vegetables 
 with boiled turkey and chicken are potatoes, cauliflower, 
 turnips, stewed celery, macaroni, parsnips, onions, Brus- 
 sels sprouts, and artichokes. If the poultry be roasted 
 the vegetables should be about the same, beans of all 
 kinds, green peas, cauliflower, white and sweet potatoes, 
 rice, mushrooms, salsify, corn, turnips, carrots, and 
 macaroni. 
 
 Game of all kinds should be so cooked and served that 
 none of the natural flavors will be disguised. For this 
 reason the sauces and the vegetables which accompany 
 the meat should be of such a character that they will 
 combine in a pleasing way with the game flavor. Celery 
 is excellent ; it may be served plain, stewed, and with a 
 white sauce, or with Mayonnaise dressing. In the last- 
 named form celery is good with any kind of game. In 
 a dinner of many courses it is customary to serve with 
 the game a sauce, a salad, almost always uncooked 
 
496 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 vegetables, and bread. Here is a list of vegetables 
 good with* any kind of game : green peas, French beang, 
 sweet potatoes, when boiled, glazed, or cooked au gratin ; 
 tomatoes, stuffed, broiled, or in a salad ; white potatoes, 
 as croquettes, or puffs, or fried in balls ; cauliflower, 
 when cooked au gratin ; spinach, a la creme ; and some 
 tastes are gratified with stuffed onions as a companion of 
 wild ducks. Unless there be an olive sauce, olives should 
 be served with ducks. Sometimes fried hominy is served 
 with grouse and ducks. 
 
 The vegetables appropriate to serve with roast goose 
 are not especially numerous. Onions and potatoes are 
 considered by most people to be necessary adjuncts ; so 
 is apple sauce. Sweet potatoes, squash, rice, turnips, 
 peas, beans, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, salsify, and okra 
 all are suitable. 
 
 In arranging the bill of fare for a dinner, avoid placing 
 two similar vegetables in the same course, unless they 
 are to be served a la mace'doine or a la jardiniere. The 
 common vegetables may be classified as follows : 
 
 1. Cabbage, chiccory, spinach, lettuce, endive, dande- 
 lions, cauliflower, beet greens, Brussels sprouts. 
 
 2. Turnips, salsify, kohl-rabi. 
 
 3. Squash, sweet potatoes. 
 
 4. Shelled beans, peas. 
 
 5. Bice, hominy, macaroni, white potatoes. 
 
 Now, if squash be used, sweet potatoes should not, in 
 the same course ; or if turnips be served, salsify should 
 not. 
 
 POTATOES. 
 
 The potato is one of the most common vegetables, 
 and yet its characteristics are not very well understood 
 by the majority of housekeepers. The potato may be 
 soaked in cold water for twelve or more hours before 
 being cooked, and will be improved rather than injured ; 
 but let it stand in but little moisture after it is cooked. 
 
VEGETABLES. 497 
 
 for even ten minutes, and it would be spoiled. The 
 potato is composed largely of starch. The uncooked 
 starch does not unite with moisture, but as soon as it is 
 cooked it absorbs moisture like a sponge. A good potato 
 will be light and mealy as soon as it is baked or boiled, 
 but if the cooking be continued it will become dark, 
 heavy, and strong-flavored. 
 
 In warming over potatoes, or in using them in a salad, 
 there is an objection to a very mealy potato. When po- 
 tatoes are new they are rarely mealy, and are therefore 
 particularly nice for salads and for warming over. Ger- 
 man potatoes are sold in large cities for these purposes. 
 They are small, and, like a new potato, will not crumble 
 if cut into cubes or in slices. If one have neither new 
 nor German potatoes, mealy potatoes may be used for 
 the purposes mentioned, if they be under-boiled. 
 
 * Boiling Potatoes. 
 
 There are many ways of boiling the vegetable. It 
 really makes no difference in the quality of the potato 
 whether it be put into cold or boiling water, when it is 
 put on to cook, but it does make a little difference in the 
 care to the cook. If they be covered with boiling water 
 they can be timed to a minute, and there will be no care 
 except to put in the salt and to take them off as soon as 
 the time is up. If, however, they be put on in cold 
 water, it will not be possible to time them accurately. 
 Again, a potato may be so mealy that the outside will be 
 broken to pieces before the centre is cooked. This 
 happens only when the boiling is violent. 
 
 Here is a rule that has never failed to give a perfectly 
 cooked potato in all seasons and in all parts of the 
 country : Put the potatoes in the boiler and on the fire. 
 Cover them with boiling water. Cover the boiler, and 
 let them cook half an hour. Eemember it is half an 
 hour from the time the water is poured over them, not 
 
498 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 from the time they begin to boil. When they have been 
 cooking fifteen minutes, add a table-spoonful of salt for 
 every twelve potatoes. The boiling should be only 
 moderately brisk. At the end of half an hour pour off 
 every drop of water. If the potatoes must be kept hot 
 for any length of time, lay a folded towel over them, and 
 place the kettle on the back part of the stove. They 
 will keep hot and mealy for hours, if cared for in this 
 way. 
 
 * Princess Potatoes. 
 
 Cooked by the following simple mode, potatoes are ren- 
 dered delicate and delicious. A quantity of cold mashed 
 ones should be used. Cut into strips about two inches 
 long, one inch wide, and half an inch thick. Have in one 
 saucer a table-spoonful of melted butter, and in another 
 a beaten egg, and dip the strips of potato first into the 
 butter and then into the egg. With a knife, lay them 
 in a light!} 7 buttered tin pan, and cook in a hot oven for 
 twelve minutes. Serve at once. An egg and a table- 
 spoonful 'of butter will suffice for about a pint of 
 potatoes. 
 
 Duchess Potatoes. 
 
 Grate five cold boiled potatoes of medium size. Mix 
 five level table-spoonfuls of flour, a quarter of a tea- 
 spoonful of baking-powder, and a teaspoonful of salt; 
 then lightly mix the grated potatoes with these ingre- 
 dients, and add half a cupful of milk and two well-beaten 
 eggs. Have ready in a Scotch bowl or a deep saucepan 
 boiling lard to the depth of about three inches, and drop 
 the mixture into the lard by small spoonfuls. About 
 half of the entire quantity can be cooked at one time. 
 Fry for eight minutes, and serve on a napkin. 
 
 The potatoes used should be light and dry ; the eggs 
 should be beaten with vigor; the mixing of the ingre- 
 dients should be done thoroughly, and the fat should 
 
VEGETABLES. 499 
 
 be so hot that blue smoke rises from the centre of the 
 pan. 
 
 * Potato Omelet 
 
 This requires nine potatoes of medium size, three table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, one level table-spoonful of salt, one- 
 third of a teaspoonful of pepper, and half a cupful of hot 
 milk. 
 
 After paring the potatoes, cover them with boiling 
 water, and cook for half an hour ; then drain off all the 
 water, and mash the potatoes until fine and light. Add 
 the salt and pepper, and two table-spoonfuls of the butter, 
 and after mixing well, gradually add the hot milk, beat- 
 ing all the while. The mixture should be very light. 
 Put the remaining table-spoonful of butter on the stove 
 in a large frying-pan ; and when it gets hot, and before 
 it has become browned, turn the potato into the pan, 
 spreading it smoothly. Cover the omelet, and set it 
 where it will brown slowly and evenly. It should be 
 done in ten minutes. Fold it, and turn out on a hot 
 dish. Serve at once. 
 
 * Escaloped Potatoes. 
 
 Cut a quart of cold boiled potatoes into very thin slices, 
 and season with half a teaspoonful of salt and a level 
 table-spoonful of pepper. Next butter an escalop dish. 
 Put two table-spoonfuls" of butter into a frying-pan, and 
 when the butter has become hot, and before it has become 
 browned, add a table-spoonful of flour. Stir until a white 
 froth has formed, and then draw the frying-pan to a 
 cooler part of the stove, and add very gradually a pint 
 of cold milk. After about a third of this quantity has 
 been thus used, move the frying-pan to the hottest part 
 of the range, and stir the mixture constantly until it 
 bubbles ; then add the remainder of the milk, and let it 
 all boil up. Season with a little pepper, and a third 
 of a teaspoonful of salt. Spread a layer of this sauce on 
 
500 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 the bottom of the escalop dish, then a layer of potato, 
 another of sauce, and another of potato, and finish with 
 one of sauce. Cover with fine dry bread crumbs, and 
 cook in the oven for twenty minutes. 
 
 The potatoes can be sliced and seasoned the night 
 before, and the crumbs and dish placed in readiness on 
 the table, so that the work in the morning may be quickly 
 done. 
 
 A dish of creamed potatoes may be made by putting 
 the seasoned potatoes into the sauce, and heating them 
 for five minutes. 
 
 * Hashed Potatoes in Cream. 
 
 Pare, and chop rather coarse, enough cold boiled pota- 
 toes to make a quart. Put them into a stew-pan with 
 one teaspoonful of flour, one of salt, and one-fourth of a 
 teaspoonful of pepper. Mix these materials lightly, and 
 add a scant pint of sweet milk. Set the stew-pan into 
 another containing boiling water, and cook the mixture 
 until it gets boiling hot, say about twelve minutes; 
 then add a table-spoonful of butter, and a teaspoonful 
 of chopped parsley. Keinove the stew-pan from the 
 water, and set it where its contents will boil up once. 
 Taste, to be sure that there is enough seasoning ; then 
 serve. 
 
 * Potatoes au TGratin. 
 
 Butter a gratin dish or a stone-china platter, and spread 
 upon it a quart of cold potatoes cut into cubes. Dredge 
 well with salt and pepper, and sprinkle a teaspoonful of 
 fine-chopped parsley over the dish. Cover with a pint 
 of cream sauce, and place in the oven for ten or twelve 
 minutes. In that time the potatoes should become slightly 
 browned. Serve at once. 
 
 To Make the Sauce. Put two table-spoonfuls of butter 
 into the frying-pan, and when melted, add a table-spoon- 
 ful of flour. 3tir until the mixture is smooth and frothy ; 
 
VEGETABLES. 501 
 
 then draw back to a cooler part of the stove, and grad- 
 ually add a pint of milk. Season with salt and pepper, 
 and boil for a moment. 
 
 Hashed and Browned Potatoes. 
 
 For six people use one quart of cold boiled potatoes, 
 cut into cubes, two table-spoonfuls of butter, one of flour, 
 a level table-spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, 
 and one cupful of stock. 
 
 Sprinkle half the salt and pepper on the potatoes. 
 Put one table-spoonful of the butter on the stove in a 
 frying-pan, and when it becomes hot, put in the flour. 
 Stir until smooth and brown; then gradually add the 
 stock and the remaining salt and pepper. Cook for 
 three minutes ; then add the potatoes, and cook for five 
 minutes, stirring three or four times with a fork, and 
 being careful not to break them. 
 
 Now put the second table-spoonful of butter on the 
 stove in another frying-pan, and when it becomes hot, 
 turn the potatoes into this pan, spreading them lightly. 
 Cook for ten minutes on a rather hot part of the stove, 
 being careful that they do not get burned. When the 
 mixture becomes browned, fold it like an omelet, and 
 turn out on a hot dish. 
 
 It is better to have the potatoes a little under-boiled 
 for this dish, as they will keep their shape. Follow the 
 rule carefully. 
 
 * Hashed and Browned Potatoes, in Cream 
 Sauce. 
 
 Use for six persons one quart of cold boiled potatoes, 
 cut into cubes, one slice of onion, two sprigs of parsley, 
 one slice of carrot, three table-spoonfuls of butter, one 
 level table-spoonful of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful 
 of pepper, two scant table-spoonfuls of flour, one pint of 
 milk, and one cupful of grated bread crumbs. 
 
502 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Beat the flour and two table-spoonfuls of the butter 
 together, in a saucepan. Add the onion, parsley, carrot, 
 and half the salt and pepper. Heat the milk, and pour 
 it gradually upon the contents of the saucepan ; then set 
 the pan on the stove. When the milk begins to boil, 
 set the pan back where the milk will only simmer for 
 five minutes. 
 
 Season the potatoes with the remainder of the salt 
 and pepper, and put them into a gratin dish or a shallow 
 escalop dish. Strain the hot sauce over them. Now 
 sprinkle the crumbs over the dish, and dot them with 
 the third, or remaining, table-spoonful of butter. Set 
 the dish in a rather hot oven, and cook for twenty 
 minutes. Serve without delay. 
 
 * Potatoes Warmed in Chicken Gravy. 
 
 Chop a quantity of cold boiled potatoes rather fine, 
 and season with salt and pepper. Put a teaspoonful of 
 butter in a frying-pan, and when it is melted, put in the 
 potatoes. To each quart add half a pint of chicken 
 gravy. Stir frequently with a fork until the potatoes 
 have become very hot and brown. 
 
 Any other kind of gravy may be used in the same way 
 with potatoes. 
 
 * Stewed Potatoes. 
 
 This savory dish will require a quart of raw potatoes, 
 chopped rather fine, a generous teaspoonful of salt, one- 
 fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, one table-spoonful 
 of flour, one of butter, one cupful of milk, and one of 
 water. 
 
 Pare and chop the potatoes, and let them stand in a 
 quantity of cold water for ten minutes ; then pour off 
 the water, and put the potatoes into a stew-pan with all 
 the other ingredients except the milk and flour, and 
 simmer for twenty minutes. Now mix the milk with 
 
VEGETABLES. 503 
 
 the flour, and add to the articles which are cooking. 
 After ten minutes' further cooking, serve at once. 
 
 If stock be used instead of milk and water, the pota- 
 toes will be much richer and more savory. 
 
 *Dry Stew of Potatoes. 
 
 Use two quarts of thin-sliced raw potatoes, about a 
 quarter of a pound of fat salt pork, one level table-spoon- 
 ful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
 Soak the potatoes in cold water for half an hour. 
 Have the pork cut in very thin slices. Put about one- 
 fourth of it in the bottom of a deep pudding-dish ; then- 
 put in half the potatoes, and sprinkle half the pepper and 
 salt over them. Now put in the remainder of the pota- 
 toes, and sprinkle with the balance of the salt and 
 pepper. Spread the remainder of the sliced pork over 
 the potatoes. Cover the dish, and bake it in a moderate 
 oven for half an hour. When that time has passed, 
 remove the cover from the dish, and bake for twenty 
 minutes more. Serve at once in the same dish. 
 
 This is excellent for dinner, luncheon, or supper when 
 meat or fish is not available. It is both nutritious and 
 savory. To some tastes a table-spoonful of grated onion, 
 mixed with the potatoes, will be considered as an 
 improvement. 
 
 * Casserole of Potatoes. 
 
 After paring eight good-sized potatoes, cover them 
 with boiling water, and cook for half an hour ; then 
 pour off all the water, and mash the potatoes until fine 
 and light. Add two table-spoonfuls of butter and a tea- 
 spoonful and a half of salt ; and when these ingredients 
 have been beaten into the potato, add a generous half- 
 cupful of milk. Have ready a tin mould, warm and well 
 buttered, and pack the potato into it. Let the casserole 
 stand for five minutes ; then turn out on a platter. 
 
504 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 In order to be successful one must be not sparing of 
 butter when greasing the mould. A chaiiotte-russe or 
 jelly mould answers well for holding the potato. A 
 pretty way to serve the casserole is to turn it out upon a 
 buttered tin sheet, cover with beaten egg, and brown in 
 the oven. 
 
 Potato Timbale. 
 
 In order to make a timbale large enough for eight 
 persons, use eight large potatoes, one table-spoonful of 
 salt, four table-spoonfuls of butter, half a teaspoonful of 
 white pepper, three eggs, one cupful of hot milk, and 
 one-third of a cupful of crumbs. 
 
 Pare the potatoes, and, putting them into a stew-pan 
 with boiling water enough to cover them, cook them for 
 half an hour. Put the milk on to heat. Pour all the 
 water from the potatoes, and mash them until fine and 
 light. Add half the butter and all the salt and pep- 
 per. Beat the mixture a little, and gradually add the 
 milk, beating all the time. Finally add the eggs, well 
 beaten. 
 
 Butter a charlotte mould or any other plain mould 
 with the remaining two spoonfuls of butter, and sprinkle 
 the bottom and sides with the crumbs, having as many 
 as possible cling to the butter. Pack the mould with 
 the potato, and place in a moderate oven for half an hour. 
 Let it stand for ten minutes after it comes from the 
 oven ; then turn out the contents very gently on a flat 
 dish. 
 
 * Potato Balls. 
 
 With a vegetable-scoop, cut two quarts of balls out of 
 raw potatoes, and put them into cold water. A quarter 
 of an hour before serving-time, put them into a saucepan 
 with boiling water enough to cover, and cook for twelve 
 minutes. After pouring off all the water, dredge the 
 balls with salt, and let them stand on the back of the 
 range to dry off. 
 
VEGETABLES. 505 
 
 * Potato Balls with Cream Sauce. 
 
 Pare a number of large round potatoes, and cut balls 
 from them with a vegetable-scoop. A dozen potatoes 
 will give about sixty balls, if the largest scoop be used. 
 Cover the balls with boiling water, and cook them twelve 
 minutes ; then pour off the water, and add to the balls a 
 pint of boiling milk. Into this stir two table-spoonfuls 
 of butter mixed with one of flour, and also a seasoning 
 of salt and pepper. Boil up once, and serve. 
 
 A teaspoonful of chopped parsley improves the appear- 
 ance of the dish. 
 
 There is another nice mode of serving potato balls. 
 When all the water has been drained from them, add a 
 teaspoonful of lemon juice, half a teaspoonful of salt 
 one-quarter of a teaspoonful of white pepper, and three 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, mixed with one teaspoonful of 
 chopped parsley. This mode is particularly nice when 
 the potato balls are to accompany some dish of fish. 
 There should be no delay in serving. 
 
 * Potato Cakes. 
 
 These are made by shaping into small flat cakes cold 
 mashed potatoes left from a previous meal, putting them 
 on a buttered tin, spreading them lightly with soft but- 
 ter, and placing them in a hot oven for a quarter of* an 
 hour. Serve at once. 
 
 * Roasted Potatoes. 
 
 If the cooking be perfect, roasted potatoes are an ex- 
 cellent accompaniment of roast beef ; but if it be faulty, 
 and the potatoes come from the oven hard and dry, this 
 mode of cooking is not likely to be a favorite. The 
 potatoes should be large. Pare them, and cover with 
 boiling water; and after fifteen minutes' cooking, take 
 
506 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 them out and drain them. Now put them into the 
 dripping-pan containing the roast beef, and cook for 
 twenty-five minutes. Baste several times with the beef 
 gravy. Serve the potatoes as a garnish around the 
 roast. 
 
 * Saratoga Potatoes. 
 
 After paring six large potatoes, slice them very thin, 
 and put them into three quarts of cold water. Let them 
 stand all night in a cold place, in the ice-chest, if possi- 
 ble. In the morning pour off the water, and put in some 
 that is fresh, as well as a large piece of ice. When the 
 potatoes are brittle, drain about a pint of them, and, 
 putting them into a frying-basket, lower them into a 
 kettle one-third full of boiling fat. Cook for ten min- 
 utes, lifting them with a spoon from the bottom of the 
 pan two or three times while they are frying. Drain the 
 potatoes well, and turn them into a dish lined with soft 
 brown paper. Continue cooking the potatoes in this 
 way until all are done. 
 
 A great many points are to be observed : The slices 
 should be cut equally thin; they should stand long 
 enough in cold water for the extraction of a large part 
 of the starch and coloring matter ; they should be so cold 
 when put into the fat as to be brittle ; the fat should be 
 smoking hot, and be kept boiling all the time ; and care 
 should be taken to prevent the potatoes from burning. 
 
 The particles of water that cling to the potatoes turn 
 to steam on coming into contact with the fat, and the 
 expansion will force the fat out of the kettle, unless the 
 basket be lowered gradually. 
 
 This may seem to be a great deal of space to devote to 
 fried potatoes ; but they are worth it. 
 
 * Lyonnaise Potatoes. 
 
 Cut into cubes enough cold boiled potatoes to make 
 one quart. Season them with a generous teaspoonful of 
 
VEGETABLES. 507 
 
 salt and one-third of a teaspoonful of pepper. Put three 
 level table-spoonfuls of either pork, sausage, or ham fat 
 into a large frying-pan, and add two table-spoonfuls of 
 minced chives. Cook for three minutes, stirring all the 
 time. Add the potatoes, and stir with a fork, being 
 careful not to break them, until they become browned 
 and very hot. Now add one teaspoonful of minced 
 parsley, and cook for a minute longer. Turn into a hot 
 dish, and serve at once. 
 
 If butter be preferred, it may be substituted for fat. 
 One table-spoonful of minced onion may be used instead 
 of the chives. Use more salt and pepper if you choose. 
 
 * Sautd Potatoes. 
 
 Cut into balls or cubes enough raw potatoes to make a 
 quart. Put them in a stew-pan, and cover with boiling 
 water. Cook for ten minutes ; then drain off the water, 
 and add four table-spoonfuls of clarified butter. Shake 
 over a hot fire until the potatoes are a golden brown. 
 Dredge with salt, and serve at once. 
 
 * Potato Chowder. 
 
 For this dish will be required two quarts of pared and 
 sliced potatoes, five good-sized onions, pared, and sliced 
 very thin, half a pound of salt pork, two quarts of water, 
 two table-spoonfuls of flour, and salt and pepper for 
 seasoning. 
 
 Cut the pork into thin strips, and fry slowly until it 
 turns light brown ; then add the onions, and cook slowly 
 until they have become slightly browned. Put a layer 
 of sliced potatoes into the soup-kettle, then a thin layer 
 of pork and onion, and dredge with salt, pepper, and 
 flour. Continue putting in these alternate layers until 
 all the solid materials have been used ; then add the 
 water. Heat the chowder slowly to the boiling-point, 
 and simmer for forty minutes afterward. 
 
508 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * French Fried Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Cut cold boiled potatoes into sixths, lengthwise. Sea- 
 son them with salt, and, putting them into the frying 
 basket, cook in fat for five minutes. 
 
 This is one of the most delicious ways of serving 
 sweet potatoes. 
 
 * Fried Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Cut cold boiled sweet potatoes in slices about an inch 
 thick, and season with salt and pepper. For each quart, 
 cut a quarter of a pound of fat salt pork in thin slices ; 
 and after frying until it is brown and crisp, remove it 
 from the pan and put in enough of the sliced potatoes 
 to cover the bottom. Fry until brown on one side, and 
 then turn and brown the other. Keep the cooked slices 
 hot until all have been fried. Place in a hot dish, and 
 serve with the slices of pork laid around the potatoes. 
 
 Great care must be exercised to prevent the potatoes 
 from becoming burned during the frying. 
 
 Use large potatoes. After paring them, cover them 
 with boiling water and boil for one hour ; then let them 
 cool in the water in which they were boiled. When they 
 are cold, cut them into slices about half an inch thick, 
 and season well with salt and pepper. For each quart 
 bowlful of sliced potatoes, allow a quarter of a pound of 
 fat salt pork. Cut it in thin slices, and fry slowly for 
 about ten minutes ; then put it on a hot part of the range, 
 where it will grow crisp rapidly. When it is crisp, 
 take it up, and cover the bottom of the frying-pan with 
 slices of potato. Cook until brown on one side ; then 
 turn and brown on the other. When all have been 
 cooked, place in a hot dish, and garnish with the slices 
 of pork. Serve very hot. 
 
 This is a favorite mode of frying potatoes in Southern 
 homes. It leaves them moist, and makes them delicious. 
 
VEGETABLES. 509 
 
 * Escaloped Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Slice enough cold boiled sweet potatoes to make three 
 pints, and sprinkle with a teaspoonf ul of salt and a little 
 pepper. Butter a large shallow dish, and spread the 
 potatoes in it, making a layer not more than an inch 
 thick. Melt one-third of a cupful of butter in one-fourth 
 of a cupful of boiling water; and after sprinkling a 
 quarter of this liquid over the potatoes, put them into a 
 hot oven. In ten minutes sprinkle another quarter of 
 the liquid over them ; and repeat the act twice more at 
 intervals of ten minutes. After the final sprinkling, let 
 the dish bake ten minutes longer, or forty minutes 
 in all. 
 
 This is a nice entree for dinner, and is also appropriate 
 for breakfast. It may be made much richer by using 
 more butter and no water for the basting. Sometimes a 
 table-spoonful of sugar is mixed with the butter and 
 water, but it is doubtful whether an improvement is 
 thus made. 
 
 Glazed Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Cut cold sweet potatoes in slices about an inch thick, 
 and season well with salt and pepper. For a quart of 
 potatoes, melt half a cupful of butter, and add two. table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar to it. Dip the slices in this liquid, 
 arid lay them in a large pan. Cook for twelve minutes 
 in a very hot oven. The potatoes should turn a rich, 
 glossy brown in that time. Serve hot. They are nice 
 for luncheon, dinner, or supper. 
 
 * Carrots with Cream Sauce. 
 
 Scrape, wash, and cut into cubes enough carrots to 
 make a quart when cut up. Put them into a stew- 
 pan with two quarts of boiling water, and cook them for 
 one hour ; then pour off all the water except half a gill. 
 
510 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Add one teaspoonful of sugar and one of salt, and boil 
 rapidly until all the water evaporates; then add the 
 sauce, and serve at once. 
 
 To Make the Sauce. Put three gills of milk into a 
 stew-pan, and when it boils, add two table-spoonfuls of 
 butter that has been beaten, with a level table-spoonful 
 of flour, to a froth. Now add half a teaspoonful of salt 
 and one-eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper. Cook for 
 
 three minutes before pouring over the vegetables. 
 
 . 
 
 * Stewed Carrots. 
 
 Pare and slice enough carrots to make three pints, and 
 cut them into cubes about half an inch square. Put 
 these into a stew-pan containing two quarts of boiling 
 water, and cook for an hour ; then drain off all the 
 water, and add a heaping teaspoonful of sugar, two table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, a little 
 pepper, and half a pint of stock. Cook rapidly until the 
 stock has almost boiled away. 
 
 Stewed Turnips. 
 
 Proceed exactly the same in cooking turnips as you do 
 in preparing carrots, except that the turnips should be 
 cooked for only half an hour. 
 
 Parsnips with Butter Sauce. 
 
 Scrape and wash the parsnips. Cut them in slices 
 about five inches long and one-third of an inch wide. 
 Put one quart of these slices in a stew-pan with two 
 quarts of boiling water. Cook them for three-quarters 
 of an hour. When they have been boiling for half an 
 hour, add one table-spoonful of salt. When they are 
 done, drain off all the water, and put the parsnips in a 
 vegetable dish. Dredge them lightly with salt, and 
 pour half a pint of butter sauce over them. 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 511 
 
 * Fried Parsnips. 
 
 
 
 Let it be assumed that some parsnips were left from 
 a dinner. Allow the butter sauce (which should be pro- 
 vided with boiled parsnips) to cling to them, and after 
 dipping in beaten egg and bread crumbs, put them into 
 the frying-basket, and plunge into boiling fat. Cook for 
 five minutes. 
 
 If the parsnips have not had butter sauce and salt 
 and pepper on them, season them well before frying. 
 
 Parsnip Fritters. 
 
 Put a pint of flour into a sieve, and add to it one tea- 
 spoonful and a half of baking-powder and a scant tea- 
 spoonful of salt. Mix thoroughly, and rub through the 
 sieve. Next beat two eggs till light ; and after adding 
 a pint of milk to them, stir the mixture into the flour. 
 Follow with the addition of a pint of cold boiled parsnips, 
 grated fine ; and after beating the mixture thoroughly, 
 drop it by spoonfuls into boiling fat, holding the spoon 
 close to the liquid before you venture to drop the con- 
 tents. Cook the fritters for about five minutes, and serve 
 very hot. There should be fat enough to float the fritters, 
 and it should smoke before they are dropped in. 
 
 * Creamed Onions. 
 
 After boiling half a dozen onions in three quarts of 
 water for one hour, pour off the liquor, and cut the 
 onions into small pieces. Season with salt and pepper, 
 and pour a pint of cream sauce over them. Serve very 
 hot. 
 
 To Make the Sauce. First put a pint of milk into 
 a saucepan to boil. Eub to a cream two table-spoonfuls 
 of butter and one generous table-spoonful of flour ; and 
 when the milk begins to boil, stir this cream into it. 
 Continue the stirring until the sauce is smooth. Season 
 with salt and pepper, and boil up once. 
 
512 MISS PABLO A'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 *Escaloped Onions. 
 
 Prepare the onions just as if they were to be served 
 as creamed onions. Put them into an escalop dish before 
 pouring the sauce over them, and after sprinkling them 
 with a small cupful of bread crumbs, bake in a moderate 
 oven for twenty minutes. 
 
 By some people it may be considered as an improve- 
 ment to use a table-spoonful of grated cheese with the 
 crumbs. 
 
 Stuffed Onions. 
 
 Boil six large onions gently for an hour in clear water 
 in plenty. At the end of the stated time remove the 
 onions from the water, and with a sharp knife cut a 
 piece from the centre of each. Mix together two table- 
 spoonfuls of fine-chopped ham, three of bread crumbs, 
 one of butter, three of inilk or cream, one egg, half a 
 teaspoonful of salt, and a grain of cayenne. Fill with 
 this mixture the spaces made in the onions. Sprinkle 
 with dry crumbs, and put half a teaspoonful of butter 
 on top of each onion. Place on brown earthen plates, 
 and bake slowly for an hour. Serve with cream sauce. 
 
 Spanish onions are especially delicious prepared in 
 this manner. 
 
 * Stewed Tomatoes. 
 
 Pare ripe tomatoes, and then cut them into small 
 pieces. Put them in a stew-pan, and simmer for half 
 an hour. At the end of that time add, for each quart, 
 a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, and two table-spoonfuls of butter. Simmer for 
 ten minutes longer. 
 
 This is a dish as to which tastes vary a good deal ; ten 
 minutes' cooking being all some persons give it, whereas 
 others stew the tomatoes two hours. A teaspoonful of 
 
VEGETABLES. 513 
 
 sugar and half a cupful of cracker crumbs are some- 
 times added with the butter and other seasoning. 
 
 Canned tomatoes can be treated the same as the fresh, 
 except that they will require but half as much cooking. 
 
 Baked Tomatoes. 
 
 Cut the skin from one end of each of half a dozen good- 
 sized smooth tomatoes. With a teaspoon scoop out 
 about half of the pulp, and mix it with two table-spoon- 
 fuls of butter, two of powdered cracker, one teaspoonful 
 of salt, one of sugar, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. 
 Fill the cavities with this mixture, and after sprinkling 
 the tomatoes with crumbs, bake them in a moderate oven 
 for half an hour. 
 
 Breaded Tomatoes. 
 
 The tomatoes should be firm and cold. The variety 
 called beefsteak tomato is the best for breading. Before 
 doing any other work, get ready a kettle of hot fat, roll 
 and sift a quantity of bread crumbs, and beat two eggs. 
 All this is necessary because the tomatoes grow soft and 
 juicy if allowed to stand. Pare and slice them, and 
 after seasoning well with salt and pepper, dip each slice 
 in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs. When all the 
 slices have been treated in this manner, dip them again 
 in the egg and crumbs j then place them in a frying- 
 basket, and plunge into boiling fat. Cook for about a 
 minute and a half. For six people, about four large 
 tomatoes, two eggs, and a cupful of crumbs will be 
 required. 
 
 * Broiled Tomatoes. 
 
 After paring and slicing the tomatoes, and seasoning 
 suitably with salt and pepper, dip the slices in beaten 
 egg and in crumbs. Broil over clear coals for about 
 eight minutes. Place on a hot dish, with a bit of butter 
 
 m 
 
514 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 in the centre of each slice. This dish is good for break- 
 fast, luncheon, or tea. 
 
 Another way of cooking the tomatoes is to put a little 
 butter into a hot frying-pan, and brown the tomatoes on 
 both sides in the pan. 
 
 * Sliced Tomatoes. 
 
 For this dish one should use only such tomatoes as 
 are ripe and smooth. Put them into a bowl, and pour 
 boiling water upon them. This will loosen the skins, so 
 that the paring is an easy task. As soon as the tomatoes 
 have been pared, place them where they will become 
 very cold ; and when they are cold, slice them with a 
 very sharp knife, and then place the dish on ice again 
 until the time of serving. 
 
 * Tomato Fritters. 
 
 tlse for these fritters a can of tomatoes, eight slices of 
 stale bread about half an inch thick, one table-spoonful 
 of butter, one of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, one of 
 sugar, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, two eggs, 
 anci a pint of crumbs of bread or crackers. 
 
 Cook the tomatoes, salt, pepper, and sugar together in 
 a stew-pan for ten minutes. Rub the flour and butter 
 together, and stir into the cooking mixture. Cook for 
 three minutes longer j then rub through a strainer. 
 
 Spread the slices of bread on a platter, and pour the 
 strained tomato . over them. After they have stood for 
 abbut half an hour, turn them over and let them stand 
 ten minutes longer, 'that both sides maybe weir covered 
 with the sauce. 
 
 Beat the eggs well, and dip the toast first in the eggs 
 and then in the bread crumbs. Put a few slices into a 
 frying-basket, and cook in boiling fat for two minutes, 
 repeating the process until all the slices have been thus 
 treated. Drain well, and serve very hot. 
 
VEGETABLES. 515 
 
 * Boiled Asparagus. 
 
 After cutting the tough ends from the asparagus, wash 
 it in cold water and tie it again in bundles. Put it into 
 a stew-pan with salted boiling water, a teaspoonful of 
 salt to every quart of water, and boil for twenty-five 
 minutes. On taking from the fire, drain off the water. 
 Now untie the bundles, and place the asparagus on slices 
 of toast. Season with butter and a little salt. 
 
 Or, the asparagus may be cut in two-inch pieces and 
 boiled as directed. Drain off all the water. Put the 
 asparagus in a vegetable-dish, and season with butter and 
 a little salt. This is a very satisfactory way to cook 
 and serve the vegetable. 
 
 * Asparagus Points. 
 
 Cut off the tender green heads of asparagus. Wash 
 them, and then boil in salted water from fifteen to 
 twenty minutes. These are served like peas. 
 
 Asparagus with Eggs. 
 
 Use two bunches of asparagus, half a dozen eggs, three 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, and three level teaspoonfuls of 
 salt. 
 
 After cutting off the tough ends, wash the rest of the 
 asparagus, and cut it in pieces about two inches long. 
 Place it in a saucepan with enough boiling water to 
 cover it, and boil for twenty-five minutes, adding two 
 teaspoonfuls of salt at the end of the first quarter of an 
 hour. When done, take from the fire and drain off all 
 the water. Place the asparagus in an escalop-dish or 
 gratin-dish. Spread half the butter on it, and then set 
 the dish where the asparagus will keep hot while the 
 eggs are being beaten. Beat them till rather light ; 
 then add a teaspoonful of salt and the remainder of the 
 butter, broken into bits. Pour this mixture over the 
 
516 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 asparagus, and set the dish in a moderate oven for four 
 minutes. Serve very hot. 
 
 This dish may be served as an entre'e. 
 
 * Green Peas. 
 
 Shell the peas. Put them in a stew-pan with boiling 
 water enough to cover them, and add a table-spoonful of 
 salt for each quart of peas. Boil from twenty minutes 
 to an hour, the time depending upon the age and condi- 
 tion of the peas. Those that require an hour's boiling 
 to make them tender are not of a delicate flavor when 
 cooked. Drain off almost all the water, and season the 
 peas with butter and salt. 
 
 French Peas. 
 
 Open a can of French peas, and turn them into a 
 strainer. Rinse them thoroughly by pouring cold water 
 over them. Put them in a flat-bottomed stew-pan, and 
 add to them one table-spoonful of butter, one teaspoonful 
 each of salt and sugar, and one gill of stock. Cook 
 rapidly, having the stew-pan uncovered, until the peas 
 have absorbed all the liquid. Serve at once. 
 
 Fresh peas may be finished in this manner after they 
 have been boiled and drained. 
 
 * Boiled Salsify. 
 
 As the season for delicate green vegetables goes by, 
 people turn to vegetables of a somewhat heavier kind. 
 Salsify, or oyster-plant, is one of the most palatable tubers, 
 and may be cooked in a variety of ways. If it is simply 
 to be boiled, first remove the tops (which are not used) 
 from two bunches, and cover the bunches with cold 
 water. Next put a quart of cold water and a table- 
 spoonful of lemon juice into a bowl. Scrape the salsify 
 perfectly clean ; and as each piece is finished, drop it 
 into the liquid in the bowl, which will keep it white. 
 
VEGETABLES. 517 
 
 When ready to cook the salsify, drain it carefully and 
 put it into a clean stew-pan with boiling water enough 
 to cover it. Boil for fifty minutes, adding a teaspoonful 
 of salt at the end of the first half-hour. At serving- 
 time drain the plant thoroughly, and season it with salt 
 and pepper and a table-spoonful of butter ; or serve with 
 butter sauce. 
 
 Salsify grows dark in cooking unless it be kept in 
 water from the time it is scraped until it is boiled. It 
 should not be cooked in an iron kettle. 
 
 Salsify a la Poulette. 
 
 Boil the salsify as already directed, and serve with a 
 sauce made as follows : Put two table-spoonfuls of butter 
 and one of flour into a small saucepan, and rub them to a 
 smooth paste. Add a piece of onion the size of a quarter 
 of a dollar, a tiny bit of mace, one-tenth of a teaspoonful 
 of white pepper, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a cupful 
 and a half of white stock. Let the mixture boil for ten 
 minutes ; then add the yolks of two eggs, beaten with a 
 quarter of a cupful of stock. Stir the sauce on the back 
 of the stove where it will not boil for one minute ; 
 then add a teaspoonful of lemon juice, and strain imme- 
 diately. Split the pieces of salsify, and lay them in 
 a warm dish, and pour the sauce over them. Serve 
 very hot. 
 
 The eggs may be omitted if one prefer. The sauce 
 will then be white, which is a good color in an accom- 
 paniment of salsify. 
 
 * Fried Salsify. 
 
 Use the cold salsify left from a dinner. Dip it in 
 beaten egg and then in bread crumbs, and after placing 
 it in a fry ing-basket, put it into boiling fat. It should 
 fry brown in a minute and a half. If any sauce cling 
 to it when it is breaded, so much the better. Serve hot. 
 
518 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Boiled Green Corn. 
 
 The time of boiling corn depends so much upon the 
 age of the vegetable and the time that it has been 
 picked that it is impossible to give a definite rule. Corn 
 that is tender and freshly picked will cook in ten 
 minutes. Some people cook it for only five, but that is 
 hardly enough. When the corn is older it will take 
 from fifteen to thirty minutes to cook. 
 
 Remove the husks and the fine silk from the ears. 
 Put the corn in a stew-pan with boiling water enough to 
 cover it, and boil until done. Take it from the water, 
 spread a napkin on a flat dish, and lay the corn on it. 
 Draw the ends of the napkin up, so as to cover the corn. 
 Serve at once. 
 
 Sometimes the inner husks are left on the corn ; but 
 the silk is of course removed. The corn may be served 
 in the husks, or they may be removed after the corn is 
 boiled. 
 
 * Green Corn in Cream. 
 
 Husk the corn, and boil it for ten minutes. Cool it a 
 little. Draw a sharp knife down each row of kernels, 
 thus cutting every kernel in two. Press the corn from 
 the husks with the back of a knife. When all the corn 
 is ready, put it in a saucepan, and to each pint add half a 
 teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of sugar, one- 
 fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, one table-spoonful of 
 butter, and three-fourths of a cupful of milk or cream. 
 Simmer for ten minutes, and serve very hot. 
 
 This is the most satisfactory mode of preparing the 
 corn when it is at all old and hard. 
 
 * Canned Corn. 
 
 Put a can of corn in a stew-pan with three gills of 
 milk, one teaspoonful each of salt and sugar, and one- 
 
VEGETABLES. 519 
 
 fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper. Simmer for twenty 
 minutes ; then add a generous table-spoonful of butter, 
 and serve. 
 
 * Lima Beans. 
 
 These beans should stand in cold water for at least 
 an hour before they are cooked, and at the time of cook- 
 ing two quarts of boiling water should be allowed for 
 each quart of beans. An hour's cooking probably will 
 be sufficient. The beans should be seasoned with salt, 
 pepper, and butter ; or white- or poulette sauce should 
 be served with them. ; - 
 
 Dried Lima beans, if used, should be soaked in cold 
 water over night. Cook them for .two hours, and season 
 them with salt and butter. 
 
 * Succotash. 
 
 Use a pint of shelled beans, ten or a dozen ears of 
 corn, half a pint of cream or niilk, two table-spoonfuls- of 
 butter, one teaspoonful of salt, and one-fourth of a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper. 
 
 Wash the beans, and boil them for an hour in clear 
 water. Pour off the water at the end of that time, and 
 put into the stew-pan a gill of boiling water, the milk 
 or cream, and the corn cut from the cob. Heat the 
 dish to the boiling-point, and then let it simmer for a 
 quarter of an hour. After this time has passed, add the 
 butter, salt, and pepper to the corn and beans ; then boil 
 up once and serve. 
 
 If the corn be fresh from the garden and very tender, 
 from five to ten minutes' simmering will cook it suffi- 
 ciently, whereas, if it be a trifle old, from twenty to 
 thirty minutes' cooking may be required. 
 
520 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Escaloped Corn and Tomatoes. 
 
 Use one pint of cold boiled corn, cut from the cob, or 
 one can of preserved corn, one pint of pared and chopped 
 tomatoes, one level table-spoonful of salt, half a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, three table-spoonfuls of butter, one 
 teaspoonful of sugar, and a generous half-pint of grated 
 bread crumbs. 
 
 Mix together the corn, tomato, seasoning, and two 
 table-spoonfuls of the butter, and pour the mixture into 
 an escalop-dish, one that will hold three pints. . Spread 
 the bread crumbs over the mixture, and dot with the 
 third table-spoonful of butter. Bake in a moderate oven 
 for half an hour. 
 
 This dish may be used for luncheon, dinner, or tea. 
 
 * Cauliflower. 
 
 This is a handsome and delicate vegetable. It is a 
 pity that more people do not know how to cook it prop- 
 erly. Frequently a head of cauliflower, which was white 
 and delicate when it went to the kitchen, is red and 
 strong-flavored when placed on the table, and perhaps 
 has a thick coating of melted butter and flour, or a thick 
 sauce of flour and milk, which tastes as if it were pre- 
 pared for a paste rather than a sauce. 
 
 There are many ways of cooking this vegetable, but 
 the simplest is the best. The cauliflower should be 
 washed thoroughly, and then allowed to stand in cold 
 water for a quarter of an hour or longer ; it should next 
 be put into a stew-pan either one of granite-ware or 
 one with a lining of porcelain with a plentiful quan- 
 tity of boiling water ; and after the cover has been put 
 on the stew-pan, the cauliflower should be simmered for 
 half an hour, if it be fresh, crisp, and of moderate size, 
 or for forty minutes, if it be rather large; it should 
 then be drained and placed in a deep vegetable-dish ; 
 and finall) 7 a sauce should be poured over it. 
 
VEGETABLES. 521 
 
 The simplest and best sauce is made by beating two 
 table-spoonfuls of butter and one of flour to a cream, 
 pouring over this mixture three gills of boiling milk, 
 and adding half a teaspoonf ul of salt after the liquid has 
 boiled for five minutes. Half a teaspoonful of salt 
 should be sprinkled over the cauliflower before the sauce 
 is poured over it. 
 
 * Escaloped Cauliflower. 
 
 Put a good-sized cauliflower into a kettle containing 
 two quarts of boiling water, and after adding a table- 
 spoonful of salt, cook the vegetable slowly for half an 
 hour. At the end of that time remove it, and after 
 allowing the water to drip from it, break the cauliflower 
 apart, and put a layer into an escalop-dish. Moisten 
 with cream sauce, and sprinkle with grated cheese ; then 
 put in another layer, pour the remainder of the sauce 
 over it, and sprinkle thickly with cheese and bread 
 crumbs. You will need a pint of sauce, a scant half- 
 pint of bread crumbs, and two table-spoonfuls of cheese 
 or more if you desire a strong flavor. Cook the dish 
 for twenty minutes, and serve as soon as it comes from 
 the oven. 
 
 To Make the Sauce. Put two table-spoonfuls of butter 
 into the frying-pan, and when it becomes melted, add a 
 table-spoonful of flour. Stir the sauce until it is smooth 
 and frothy ; then gradually add a pint of cold milk. 
 Season with salt and pepper, and boil up once. 
 
 * Creamed Cabbage. 
 
 For six persons use two quarts of sliced raw cabbage, 
 two table-spoonfuls of butter, one of flour, one teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, and 
 one cupful of milk. 
 
 After letting the sliced cabbage stand in cold water 
 for an hour, drain it, and put it into a stew-pan with two 
 
522 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 quarts of boiling water. Cover closely, and boil gently 
 for ten minutes ; then pour off all the water, and add two 
 quarts of fresh boiling water. Cover the pan, and set it 
 where its contents will boil gently for an hour and a 
 half ; then drain off all the water, and chop the cabbage 
 rather coarse. Put it into a frying-pan with the butter, 
 salt, and pepper, and stir over the fire for five minutes; 
 then cover, and set back where the mixture will cook 
 slowly. Mix the milk gradually with the flour, and 
 when a smooth mixture has been formed of the two in- 
 gredients, pour it over the cabbage. Draw the pan for- 
 ward where the dish will only simmer for the next ten 
 minutes. Serve hot. 
 
 * Escaloped Cabbage. 
 
 Cook the cabbage as directed for creamed cabbage, 
 using a generous cupful of milk. Turn the cooked mix- 
 ture into an escalop-dish, and sprinkle over it a pint of 
 grated bread crumbs and one table-spoonful of grated 
 Parmesan cheese. Bake for half an hour, and serve as 
 soon as it comes from the oven. 
 
 * Stewed Cabbage. 
 
 Take two quarts of chopped cabbage, two quarts of 
 boiling water, eight slices of rather lean salt pork, one 
 generous table-spoonful of butter, and one teaspoonful of 
 salt. 
 
 Put the cabbage into a stew-pan, and after adding the 
 salt and butter, lay the slices of pork on top of the cab- 
 bage. Pour the boiling water into the pan, and cook for 
 an hour. Add some Indian dumplings at the end of that 
 time, and cook fifteen minutes longer. 
 
 Indian Dumplings. These require a cupful of Indian 
 meal, one-fourth of a cupful of flour, one cupful of milk, 
 one level teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of baking- 
 powder, and a small egg. 
 
VEGETABLES. 523 
 
 Mix all the dry ingredients, and rub them through a 
 sieve. Beat the egg until it is light. Add the inilk, 
 and after pouring this liquid mixture upon the dry one, 
 beat both thoroughly. Drop from a spoon upon the 
 boiling cabbage ; and after covering the stew-pan, cook 
 for a quarter of an hour. 
 
 i.-i* 
 Brussels Sprouts Saut6. 
 
 Use one quart of sprouts, three table-spoonfuls of but- 
 ter, one teaspoonful of sugar, one table-spoonful of salt, 
 one teaspoonful of flour, and one-quarter of a teaspoonful 
 of pepper. 
 
 After ridding the sprouts of the loose hanging leaves, 
 soak them in cold water for half an hour ; then wash 
 them, and put them on the stove in a stew-pan contain- 
 ing two quarts of boiling water. Boil for half an hour, 
 adding a teaspoonful of salt at the end of the first ten 
 minutes. At the end of the half-hour drain off all the 
 water, and add the sugar, butter, pepper, flour, and one 
 teaspoonful of salt. Shake the pan over the fire until 
 the sprouts become colored slightly, say for about four 
 minutes ; then turn the vegetables into a warm dish, and 
 serve at once. 
 
 Brussels Sprouts in Cream Sauce.' 
 
 Wash and boil a quart of sprouts as for the saute, and 
 after draining them carefully, put a cupful of milk into 
 the stew-pan with the sprouts, and set the pan where its 
 contents will boil. Now beat together one table-spoonful 
 of flour and two of butter. Stir this mixture into the 
 milk, and add one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper and 
 one teaspoonful of salt. Simmer for five minutes. 
 
 * Boiled Okra. 
 
 The okra should be fresh and tender. Wash it, and 
 then cut off the stems. The pods are so sticky that care 
 
524 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 must be taken to avoid breaking them, else it will be 
 difficult to get them perfectly clean. This is why they 
 should be washed before the stems are removed. Put 
 them into a stew-pan, and cover with a liberal allowance 
 of water. For each quart of okra put in about three 
 ounces of lean salt pork. Boil for an hour, or even 
 longer, unless it be tender by that time. When it is 
 cooked, pour off the water and season with salt. Serve 
 hot. 
 
 If you object to pork, cook the okra in clear water ; 
 and when it is done, season with salt and butter. 
 
 * Spinach & la Crdme. 
 
 Pick apart, leaf by leaf, a peck of spinach. Throw 
 away the decayed portions, and put the rest into a large 
 pan of water. When this has been done, take the pan 
 to the sink and wash the spinach free of sand. This is 
 a difficult operation, requiring much care and a great 
 deal of water. Two pans should be used, and only a few 
 pieces of spinach washed at a time. They should then 
 be laid in the second pan, in clean water ; and after the 
 first pan has been very thoroughly rinsed and filled again 
 with fresh water, wash the spinach again, and return it 
 to the first pan. Continue the washing from pan to pan 
 until no trace of sand can be found. No other method 
 will give clean spinach, and unless one be willing to 
 take all the pains described, it would be better to do 
 without the vegetable. 
 
 Now that the spinach is clean, put it into a large stew- 
 pan, with one cupful of water ; and after covering closely, 
 cook for a quarter of an hour. Add a table-spoonful of 
 salt, and cook five minutes longer; then remove from 
 the fire and turn into a colander, and press out as much 
 water as possible. Put into a chopping-tray, and mince 
 very fine. 
 
 A little before serving-time, put three table-spoonfuls 
 of butter into a frying-pan, and when it has become 
 
VEGETABLES. 525 
 
 melted, add two table-spoonfuls of flour. Stir the mix- 
 ture until it becomes smooth and frothy ; then add the 
 chopped spinach, and cook for five minutes, stirring con- 
 stantly. Add a cupful of cream, and salt and pepper 
 to suit your taste, and after cooking for three minutes, 
 serve on toast. 
 
 Stuffed Peppers. 
 
 A vegetable that is coming into much favor is the 
 green Spanish sweet pepper. It is usually served stuffed, 
 and in a course with meats. For eight good-sized peppers 
 take a pint of fine-chopped cooked meat, half a pint of 
 grated stale bread, half a pint of water or stock, two 
 level teaspoonfuls of salt, one-fifth of a teaspoonful 
 of pepper, half a teaspoonful each of summer savory, 
 thyme, and sage, three table-spoonfuls of dried bread 
 crumbs, and three table-spoonfuls of butter. 
 
 Cut a thin slice from the stem end of each pepper, and 
 then remove the seeds. When all have been treated in 
 this way, put them in a stew-pan, cover with boiling 
 water, and set where they will simmer for a quarter of 
 an hour. 
 
 Meanwhile mix all the ingredients except one table- 
 spoonful of the butter and the dried crumbs. When 
 the peppers have been cooked for fifteen minutes, drain 
 them, and fill them with the dressing. Sprinkle the tops 
 with the crumbs, and dot with the remainder of the 
 butter. Place in a pan, and bake in a hot oven for 
 fifteen minutes. Serve very hot. 
 
 The ends that are cut off may be boiled with the pep- 
 pers, and put in their original positions after the peppers 
 are stuffed. In this case the crumbs and butter need 
 not be used. 
 
 * Fried Egg-plant. 
 
 Cut an egg-plant in slices about half an inch thick. 
 Pare these, and lay them in a deep, flat dish, and pour 
 upon them a quart of boiling water, to which has been 
 
526 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 added a table-spoonful of salt. After the slices have 
 stood for an hour in the water, drain and pepper them ; 
 then dip them into beaten egg and bread crumbs, and fry 
 in boiling fat for eight minutes. Serve immediately. 
 
 * Stuffed Egg-plant. 
 
 Of course, an egg-plant is needed ; and the other things 
 used are : a pint of grated bread crumbs, an egg, two 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, a 
 quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, half a teaspoonful 
 of chopped onion, and the same quantity of chopped 
 parsley. 
 
 Boil the egg-plant for ten minutes ; then take it from 
 the fire, and as soon as it has become partially cooled, 
 divide it into two pieces, cutting lengthwise. With a 
 spoon scoop out the greater part of the vegetable, being 
 careful not to break the skin. 
 
 Cook the butter, onion, and parsley in a large frying- 
 pan for three minutes; then add the pulp of the egg- 
 plant and the seasoning, and continue the cooking for 
 ten minutes, stirring frequently. 
 
 Meanwhile beat the egg well, and at the end of the ten 
 minutes add it to the mixture ; then remove the frying- 
 pan from the fire. Put the two shells of the plant into 
 a baking-pan, and fill them with cooked mixture. Sprinkle 
 the bread crumbs over them, and bake in a rather quick 
 oven for twenty minutes. Send to the table very hot. 
 
 Stuffed egg-plant may be served as a vegetable, with 
 meats, or as an entree. 
 
 * Baked Egg-plant. 
 
 Besides one good-sized egg-plant, use two table-spoonfuls 
 of butter, one teaspoonful and a half of salt, one-fourth 
 of a teaspoonful of pepper, two cupfuls of grated bread 
 crumbs, and one-third of a cupful of stock or water. 
 
 Cut the plant in two, lengthwise, and scoop out the 
 
VEGETABLES. 527 
 
 pulp with a spoon, leaving the skin about half an inch 
 thick, that the plant may hold its shape. Chop the 
 pulp rather fine, and add to it one teaspoonful of the 
 salt, half the pepper, and all the butter. Cook in a 
 frying-pan for ten minutes, stirring frequently ; then 
 add the water, and one cupful of the crumbs. Sprinkle 
 the interior of the shells with the remainder of the salt 
 and pepper, and fill them with the cooked mixture. 
 Sprinkle the second cupful of crumbs over the surface 
 of the mixture. Place the two parts of the plant in a 
 baking-pan, and pour enough hot water into the pan to 
 come half-way up the sides of the plant. Bake for one 
 hour. At serving-time spread a napkin on a flat dish 
 before placing the plant on it. Serve hot. 
 
 Cooked by this rule, the egg-plant will be found very 
 delicate, and may be served either as a vegetable or an 
 entre'e. 
 
 * Macedoine of Vegetables. 
 
 For eight or ten persons use one pint of cooked cauu- 
 flower, one pint of carrots, cut into fine cubes, one can 
 of French peas or French beans, three gills of white 
 stock, half a cupful of cream or milk, three teaspooiifuls 
 of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of white pepper, one 
 table-spoonful of sugar, three table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 two scant table-spoonfuls of flour, one table-spoonful of 
 chopped onion, and one bay leaf. 
 
 Cook the carrots in three quarts of water for forty 
 minutes ; then pour off the water, and add to the carrots 
 the cooked cauliflower, broken into flowerets, the peas, 
 rinsed and drained, the sugar, half the pepper, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of the salt, and one gill of the stock. Cover 
 the stew-pan, and set it where its contents will cook for 
 ten minutes. 
 
 Now put the butter and flour into a stew-pan, and mix 
 them until smooth. Heat the remainder of the stock, 
 and pour it upon the mixture. Set the stew-pan on the 
 
528 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 fire, and stir the mixture until it boils. At that time 
 add the onion, bay leaf, and the remainder of the salt 
 and pepper. Cook for five minutes ; then add the milk 
 or cream, and boil up once. Strain this sauce over the 
 vegetables, and arrange them on a warm dish. Serve 
 immediately. 
 
 This makes a nice dish to serve with cutlets, chops, 
 braised tongue, or any meat entree. It also is a suitable 
 entre'e if served by itself. 
 
 The materials required are : a can of mixed vegetables, 
 a table-spoonful of beef extract, a teaspoonful of sugar, 
 a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, two table-spoonfuls of butter, and half a cupful 
 of water. 
 
 Turn the vegetables into a strainer, and pour cold water 
 over them ; then place them in a stew-pan with the other 
 ingredients, and cook over a hot fire for eight minutes, 
 shaking the stew-pan occasionally. Serve hot. 
 
 If it be inconvenient to get beef extract, use half a 
 cupful of stock instead of the water. 
 
 Vegetables a la Jardiniere. 
 
 For eight or ten persons use one can of French peas or 
 one quart of fresh peas, when in season, one pint each of 
 carrot and turnip cubes, three gills of any kind of stock, 
 three heaping teaspoonfuls of butter, three teaspoonfuls 
 of sugar, and three level teaspoonfuls of salt. 
 
 Put the carrots and turnips in separate saucepans, 
 with two quarts of boiling water to each vegetable, and 
 cook the carrots for forty minutes, and the turnips for 
 thirty. Now, if fresh peas are to be used, put them into 
 a saucepan, with boiling water enough to cover them, 
 after the other vegetables have been cooking for ten 
 minutes, and cook them for half an hour. If very young 
 and tender, they may be cooked in twenty minutes ; if 
 
VEGETABLES. 529 
 
 old, they may require forty minutes' boiling. In case 
 French peas be used, open the can and pour the peas 
 into a strainer. Pour over them a quart of cold water, 
 and after it has been drained off, put the peas into a 
 saucepan. 
 
 When the turnips and carrots havi, been cooked, drain 
 off all the hot water. Add to each saucepan of vegeta- 
 bles one-third of the sugar, salt, batter, and stock, and 
 set the pans where their contents will boil rapidly. 
 Shake the pans occasionally, and continue the cooking 
 until all the stock has been absorbed. Spread the tur- 
 nips on a warm platter, making the border rather thick, 
 and having the thickness decrease toward the centre of 
 the dish. Heap the carrots on the turnip, covering all 
 except a border about an inch wide. Flatten the top of 
 the mound of carrot, and heap the peas upon it. 
 
 This is an exceedingly attractive dish. It may be 
 served in a dinner or luncheon as an accompaniment of 
 an entree of cold meat, or may itself pass as an entree. 
 Potato balls, or potatoes cut into half-inch cubes, boiled 
 for ten minutes, drained, and then seasoned with one 
 teaspoonful of salt and one large table-spoonful of butter, 
 may be used instead of the turnip. In this case use a 
 quart of the potato balls or cubes. 
 
 Curry of Vegetables. 
 
 For this dish use one large onion, a sour apple, a pint 
 each of carrot, turnip, and celery cubes, a heaping tea- 
 spoonful of curry-powder, one pint of stock or milk, two 
 table-spoonfuls of flour, two level teaspoonfuls of salt, 
 half a teaspoonful of pepper, and three generous table- 
 spoonfuls of butter. 
 
 Mince the onion. Paz?e the apple, and cut it into thin 
 slices. Put the butter on the stove in a stew-pan, and 
 as soon as it becomes melted, add the onion and apple. 
 Stir for two minuses, and then add the other vegetables. 
 
530 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Continue the stirring until the vegetables begin to turn 
 brown ; then add the flour and seasoning. Stir again, 
 and then pour the stock or milk into the stew-pan. 
 Cover the pan, and let the contents simmer for an hour. 
 Serve on a warm platter, with a border of rice. 
 This is a nice dish for luncheon. 
 
 Ragout of Turnips. 
 
 Use a quart of turnips, cut into cubes, three table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful of sugar, one heap- 
 ing teaspoon ful of salt, one-fifth of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, one table-spoonful of chopped onion, one table- 
 spoonful of flour, and one cupful of stock or milk. 
 
 Put the butter on the stove in a stew-pan, and when it 
 becomes melted, add the turnips and chopped onion. Stir 
 until the vegetables begin to turn brown ; then add the 
 salt, pepper, sugar, and flour, and stir two minutes longer. 
 At the end of that time add the stock or milk. Cover the 
 stew-pan, and set it where the mixture will simmer for 
 twenty minutes. Serve as a vegetable or as an entree. 
 
 Jerusalem artichokes may be treated in the same 
 manner. They should be served without delay. 
 
 * Vegetables in Sauces. 
 
 Cauliflower, Lima beans, carrots, turnips, celery, Jeru- 
 salem artichokes, onions, salsify, and green peas may 
 be served in a poulette or Bechamel sauce, the vegeta- 
 ble taking the name of the sauce used, as onions a la 
 Bechamel. When served in this way the vegetable may 
 accompany an entree of meat or fish, or may itself be 
 used as an entree. Any vegetable served with either 
 sauce must be boiled, thoroughly drained, and seasoned 
 with salt and pepper before the sauce is added. 
 
 * Wilted Cucumbers. 
 
 Cut a good-sized cucumber in very thin slices, and 
 soak for at least half an hour in a pint of cold water into 
 
VEGETABLES. 531 
 
 which has been put a table-spoonful of salt. At the end 
 of the half-hour put the slices into a strong, clean towel, 
 and wring the towel until it is impossible to extract any 
 more moisture. On opening the towel the slices will be 
 found to be wilted and flabby. Put them into a dish 
 with cracked ice. They are said to be less injurious 
 served in this way than in the ordinary style ; and 
 some epicures call them delicious, spite of the loss of 
 crispness. 
 
 Stuffed Cucumbers. 
 
 These are delicious, and may be served either as a 
 vegetable or as an entree. For six or eight persons use 
 four cucumbers of good size. Pare them lightly, and 
 after cutting off the ends, cut each cucumber into two 
 parts. Kemove the seeds with an apple-corer. Put a 
 table-spoonful of salt and a quart of cold water into a 
 basin, and drop the pared and cored cucumbers into the 
 liquid ; then set away in a cool place. 
 
 Chop enough veal free of skin and gristle to make 
 a generous half-cupful of pulp. Probably a quarter of a 
 pound will be enough. Now put half a gill of milk and 
 one-third of a gill of stale bread, free of hard parts, 
 into a small saucepan, and cook until a smooth paste is 
 formed. Ten minutes' cooking probably will suffice. 
 Mix thoroughly with the veal this paste and half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper, 
 one-eighth of a teaspoonful of thyme, one-fourth of a 
 teaspoonful of onion juice, one teaspoonful of butter, 
 and a well-beaten egg. 
 
 Kemove the cucumbers from the basin of water, and wipe 
 them with a soft towel. Fill them with the force-meat 
 just prepared, packing solidly, and being careful to have 
 the ends of the cucumbers smooth. Lay the cucumbers 
 in a stew-pan, and pour over them a pint and a half of 
 boiling veal stock or chicken stock. Add a bay leaf ; 
 and if the stock was not seasoned when it was made, 
 
532 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 add also half a teaspoonful of salt and one-fifth of a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper. Cover, and simmer for three-quarters 
 of an hour. At serving-time place the cucumbers on 
 thin strips of toast ; and after pouring over them a 
 sauce made as directed below, serve without delay. 
 
 Sauce. Eub together in a saucepan until smooth, 
 three table-spoonfuls of butter and a generous table- 
 spoonful of flour ; then add three gills of white stock, 
 chicken or veal, a piece of carrot of about the size of 
 a quarter of a dollar, a slice of onion of the same size, a 
 sprig of parsley, a clove, a bay leaf, a light grating of 
 nutmeg, half a teaspoonful of salt, and one-fifth of a 
 teaspoonful of white pepper. Simmer for a quarter of 
 an hour ; then add a teaspoonful of lemon juice, and 
 strain the sauce. 
 
 THE FRENCH ARTICHOKE. 
 
 This vegetable, which has not been very common and 
 whose value has not been well understood, is becoming 
 so popular that the supply is increasing, and in time the 
 cost will be comparatively low. 
 
 The artichoke belongs to the thistle family ; the flower 
 ig picked before it opens. In England and France an 
 artichoke may be bought for two or 
 three cents, but in our Northern markets 
 we are obliged to pay from twenty to 
 forty cents apiece; thus making a dish 
 of the vegetables quite expensive. In 
 the South they are cheaper, and of 
 course better, because they can be ob- 
 tained fresh. 
 
 There are many ways of cooking arti- 
 Artichoke. chokes ; but as in the case of nearly all 
 vegetables, the simplest is the best. The 
 artichokes should be green and crisp ; if old, or if cooked 
 after they have been picked some time, they will be 
 
VEGETABLES. 533 
 
 unsatisfactory. If the leaves be brown and dry, the 
 artichokes will be dark and tough, and it does not pay 
 to buy or to cook them when in that condition. In buy- 
 ing the vegetable select the small green heads rather 
 than the large ones that have leaves with broken and 
 dark edges. 
 
 When very small and tender, the artichoke may be 
 served raw as a salad. 
 
 The vegetable consists of three parts, the bottom, 
 leaves, and choke. The first two parts alone are used ; 
 the choke may be removed or not, as one pleases. Only 
 the base of the leaves is edible. If the choke is to be 
 removed, cut out the stem and save it, and with the 
 point of a sharp knife cut around the base of the choke 
 and draw the choke out. Trim the top of the artichoke. 
 When this has been 
 done, wash the vege. 
 table, and soak it for 
 half an hour in salted 
 water, one table- 
 spoonful of salt to 
 two quarts of water. Artichokes after Trimming. 
 
 It will then be ready for cooking by any mode. If it is 
 simply to be boiled, and served with a sauce, which is 
 decidedly the best mode, press the stem back into the 
 head, and put the vegetable into a stew-pan with boiling 
 water enough to cover it. Add a teaspoonful of salt and 
 two table-spoonfuls of lemon juice for every two quarts 
 of water. A gentle boiling for half an hour will be a 
 sufficient cooking unless the artichoke be very old ; in 
 which case ten or fifteen minutes' extra cooking will be 
 required. On taking from the water, drain well. Serve 
 hot with Bechamel, Hollandaise, or butter sauce, or serve 
 as a salad, with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. The 
 sauce may be poured around the artichokes or served 
 separately. 
 
 The leaves of the artichoke are broken off with the 
 
584 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 fingers, and the base, or fleshy end, is dipped into the 
 sauce. 
 
 When the heads are small, there should be one for each 
 person ; but when very large or expensive, they may be 
 cut into two or more parts. 
 
 Stuffed Artichokes. 
 
 Trim four artichokes and remove the chokes. Boil 
 them for half an hour in salted and acidulated water. 
 On taking them from the water, drain them. Stuff them 
 with a chicken force-meat, and arrange them in a shallow 
 baking-pan. Baste well with white sauce, and bake in a 
 moderate oven for half an hour, basting twice in that 
 time with the sauce. Serve on a flat dish, with white 
 sauce. 
 
 The leaves must be trimmed very short when the arti 
 chokes are to be stuffed. 
 
 Artichoke Quarters with Dutch Sauce. 
 
 Cut the leaves of the artichokes very short. Cut off 
 the tops, and then cut in quarters. Kemove the chokes. 
 
 Soak the quarters in salted 
 water for half an hour; then 
 drain off all the water, and 
 put the quarters in a stew- 
 pan, with one table-spoonful 
 
 Artichoke Quarters. f butter ' One ^spoonful of 
 
 salt, one table-spoonful of lemon 
 
 juice, and one pint of white stock for two artichokes. 
 Simmer for half an hour. Drain the quarters, and 
 arrange them in a shallow dish. Pour Dutch sauce 
 around them, and serve. 
 
VEGETABLES. 535 
 
 Artichoke Bottoms with Hollandaise Sauce. 
 
 Keinove all the leaves 
 from six artichokes (they 
 may be used for a puree of 
 artichokes). Take out the 
 chokes, and trim the bottoms. 
 Cook the same as artichoke Bottoms of Artichokes, 
 
 quarters. Arrange them in a 
 shallow dish; and pour Hollandaise sauce over them. 
 
 MUSHROOMS. 
 
 During the summer and fall mushrooms abound in the 
 fields in many parts of the country. In some sections 
 mushroom parties may be seen almost every pleasant 
 morning throughout September and October. The wild 
 funguses are as much more delicate and more finely fla- 
 vored than the cultivated mushrooms as the wild straw- 
 berries are superior in flavor to the fruit usually sold in 
 the market from gardens. Mushrooms should be used 
 while fresh, and should be prepared carefully but simply. 
 Put into a bowl two quarts of water and the juice of a 
 lemon. After cutting the stalks from the mushrooms, 
 and throwing them away, pare the cups. As each is 
 pared, drop it into the bowl. When ready to cook the 
 mushrooms, drain them as speedily as possible after 
 removing them from the liquid. Wild mushrooms give 
 an incomparable flavor to stews, ragouts, and sauces for 
 meats. 
 
 Stewed Mushrooms. 
 
 Put into a stew-pan a quart of cleaned mushrooms, 
 two table-spoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, 
 one-third of a teaspoonful of pepper, and one table- 
 spoonful of flour mixed with half a cupful of cold water. 
 
536 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Cover the stew-pan, and boil gently for five minutes, 
 stirring frequently. Serve very hot. 
 
 Some folk doubtless will think the dish is improved 
 if they add a table-spoonful of lemon juice just before 
 removing the mushrooms from the fire. Stock may be 
 used in place of the half-cupful of water, and will pro- 
 duce a better flavor. 
 
 A simpler mode of stewing mushrooms is to peel and 
 wash them ; then cut them in small pieces, and put them 
 in a stew-pan, with a generous table-spoonful of butter, 
 half a teaspoonful of salt, and a little pepper, for every 
 pint of the mushroom. Simmer for ten minutes. Wild 
 mushrooms are delicious cooked this way. 
 
 Mushrooms Stewed in Cream. 
 
 Prepare the mushrooms as for the plain stew, save 
 that only half as much water should be used ; and after 
 five minutes' boiling, add a cupful of cream. Keep the 
 mushrooms on the stove until the liquid boils up. 
 
 Broiled Mushrooms. 
 
 Clean a quantity of large mushrooms, and put them 
 into a double-broiler, with all the cups lying the same 
 way. Place over clear coals, cup side down, and cook 
 for two minutes; then turn the broiler, and cook for 
 two minutes on the other side. Remove from the broiler 
 carefully, because the cups will be full of juice, and 
 sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Put a bit of 
 butter on each mushroom, and place on buttered toast. 
 Serve immediately. 
 
 Baked Mushrooms. 
 
 Use large mushrooms, and use also as many slices of 
 bread as there are mushrooms, and have them about the 
 
VEGETABLES. 537 
 
 same size as the latter. Clean the mushrooms, and put 
 them into a basin of lemon water (the juice of a lemon 
 to two quarts of water). Toast the bread, and dip it 
 quickly into hot water. Butter a shallow cake-pan, and 
 lay the slices of toast in it ; then butter the toast, and 
 place a mushroom on each slice, cup side up. Sprinkle 
 the mushrooms with salt and pepper, and put a quarter 
 of a teaspoonful of butter on each one. Cover the pan 
 with another that has been rinsed in cold water, and set 
 in the oven for eight minutes. Serve immediately. 
 
 Stuffed Mushrooms. 
 
 For twelve large mushrooms, use six table-spoonfuls 
 of line-chopped cooked chicken, three table-spoonfuls of 
 stale bread, one gill of stock, two table-spoonfuls of 
 butter, one teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful 
 of onion juice, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, the 
 juice of one lemon, and one cupful of bread crumbs, 
 grated tine. 
 
 Soak together for ten minutes the three table-spoonfuls 
 of stale bread and the stock. Add the meat, salt, pepper, 
 onion juice, and one table-spoonful of the butter. Let 
 this stand while the mushrooms are being prepared. 
 
 Cut off the stalks, and pare the mushrooms. As each 
 one is pared, drop it into a dish in which there is a quart 
 of water and the juice of the lemon. When all are done, 
 take them from the acidulated water, and place them in 
 a shallow baking-pan, having the cup side up. Put one- 
 twelfth of the stuffing in each mushroom. Sprinkle with 
 the grated crumbs, and dot with the second table-spoon- 
 ful of butter. Cook in a moderately hot oven for ten 
 minutes. 
 
 * Macaroni. 
 
 Macaroni should be broken into pieces about three or 
 four inches long, and washed quickly in cold water. 
 
538 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Immediately put it into boiling water, and cook rapidly, 
 with the cover off the saucepan, for half an hour. When 
 it has been boiling for fifteen minutes, add the salt. 
 There should be three quarts of water and one table- 
 spoonful of salt for half a pound of macaroni. Drain 
 off the water, and turn the macaroni into a vegetable- 
 dish. Pour three gills of sauce over it. Any of the 
 following-named sauces may be served with it: tomato, 
 white, brown, poulette, Bechamel, or cream. Or it may 
 be put into an escalop or gratin dish, and a white or 
 cream sauce be poured over it. Then sprinkle two table- 
 spoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese and a cupful of 
 grated bread crumbs over it. Dot with a table-spoonful 
 of butter, and brown in the oven. If cheese be not liked, 
 
 -it "may be oniitted. The two table-spoonfuls of Parme- 
 san give but a slight flavor of cheese. If a strong flavor 
 be desired, use a cupful of freshly grated domestic cheese 
 
 'and three table-spoonfuls of Parmesan. In this case add 
 one-fifth of a teaspoonful of cayenue to the sauce. 
 
 * Macaroni with Brown Sauce. 
 
 Boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni for half an hour 
 with one table-spoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, 
 and two quarts of water. While it is boiling make a 
 sauce in the following manner : 
 
 -Put two table-spoonfuls of butter on the stove in a 
 frying-pan, and when it becomes hot, add two level 
 table-spoonfuls of flour. Stir until smooth and brown; 
 then draw the pan to the back part of the stove, ami 
 gradually add a cupful of brown stock and a cupful of 
 strained tomato. Move the pan forward to a hot place, 
 and stir the sauce until it boils ; then simmer for five 
 minutes. Season with a level teaspoonful of salt and 
 one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
 Put half the macaroni into an escalop-dish, and sprin- 
 kle over it one table-spoonful of Parmesan cheese ; then 
 
VEGETABLES. 539 
 
 pour on half the sauce. Now put the rest of the maca- 
 roni into the dish, and add the remainder of the sauce. 
 Sprinkle a second table-spoonful of cheese over the mix- 
 ture. Set the dish in a rather hot oven, and cook for a 
 quarter of an hour. It is a very nice entree, or may be 
 served with the vegetables in some other course of a 
 -dinner. 
 
 Macaroni a la Milanaise. 
 
 Anybody fond of macaroni will find this to be an ex- 
 cellent mode of cooking it. Of macaroni, only a quarter 
 of a pound is required ; and the other materials for the 
 dish are : a pint of white stock, half a pint of cream or 
 milk, half a can of mushrooms or a quarter of a pound 
 of fresh ones, a slice of carrot, a slice of onion, three 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, two generous table-spoonfuls of 
 flour, three teaspoonfuls of salt, and one-eighth of a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper. 
 
 After breaking the macaroni into pieces about three 
 mches long, wash it, and put it into a stew-pan with 
 two quarts of boiling water and two teaspoonfuls of salt. 
 Let it boil for half an hour, and meanwhile make a sauce. 
 Put the butter and flour into a small stew-pan, and beat 
 to a cream ; then add the onion, carrot, pepper, remain- 
 ing salt, and stock, and heat slowly. When the sauce 
 begins to boil, set it back where it will only simmer for 
 about twenty minutes. At the end of that time add the 
 milk or cream, and then strain the sauce. Pour the 
 water from the macaroni, and in its place put the pauce 
 and mushrooms. Cook for five minutes longer. 
 
 Spaghetti & Tltalienne. 
 
 Use for six persons a quarter of a pound of spaghetti, 
 a cupful of white stock, chicken or veal, a table- 
 spoonful of flour, two of butter, one teaspoonful and a 
 half of salt, one-fifth of a teaspoonful of white pepper, 
 
540 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 one-tenth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, half a cupful of 
 American cheese, and two table-spoonfuls of Parmesan 
 cheese. 
 
 Break the spaghetti into pieces about five inches long. 
 Put it into a stew-pan with two quarts of boiling water, 
 and boil rapidly, with the saucepan uncovered, for 
 twenty minutes. At the end of that time pour the spa- 
 ghetti into a colander, and drain it well. Return it to 
 the stew-pan, and, after adding the salt, pepper, and 
 stock, set the pan on the stove again. Beat the flour and 
 butter together, and stir them into the mixture as soon 
 as it begins to boil. Cook for five minutes; then add 
 the cheese, broken into fine bits ; and continue the cook- 
 ing until the cheese becomes melted, say for three 
 or four minutes. The pan must be shaken vigorously 
 several times while the cheese is melting. Serve the 
 spaghetti without delay. 
 
 * Spaghetti and Cheese. 
 
 If the dish is to be served to six or eight persons, use 
 a quarter of a pound of spaghetti, the yolks of two eggs, 
 half a pint of milk, three table-spoonfuls of butter, half 
 a cupful of soft mild cheese, broken into bits, a level tea- 
 spoonful of salt, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, 
 and one-third of a teaspoonful of white pepper. 
 
 After breaking the spaghetti into pieces about three 
 inches long, wash it quickly in cold water. Put it into 
 a saucepan with two quarts of boiling water, and boil it 
 gently for half an hour with the cover off the saucepan. 
 At the end of that time pour off the water and sprinkle 
 two-thirds of the salt over the spaghetti. Next put the 
 spaghetti into an escalop-dish, and after pouring some 
 sauce over it, bake it for five minutes in a hot oven. 
 Serve immediately. 
 
 To make the sauce which is to be poured over the 
 spaghetti, put the milk and cheese on the stove in a 
 
VEGETABLES. 541 
 
 double-boiler ; beat the yolks of the eggs well, and add 
 the seasoning to them ; pour about half of the hot mix- 
 ture from the double-boiler upon the eggs, and after blend- 
 ing thoroughly, stir into the liquid in the double-boiler ; 
 add the butter, and cook for one minute, stirring all the 
 while. 
 
 This dish is a nice one for luncheon or dinner. If a 
 strong flavor of cheese be desired, use a cupful of that 
 article instead of half a cupful. 
 
 * Noodles. 
 
 Prepare the noodles the same as for noodle soup. 
 After they have been drained, put them into a stew-pan 
 with one table-spoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of 
 salt, one -fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, and a scant 
 half-pint of hot milk. Cook for ten minutes, and serve 
 as a vegetable. 
 
 If there be a plentiful supply of soup stock on hand, 
 use two quarts of it instead of some water for boil- 
 ing the noodles, and cook them for half an hour. In 
 this case add a table-spoonful of butter to them, aiid 
 serve without any other seasoning. The stock may be 
 used the next day for a cream soup. 
 
 * Boiled Rice. 
 
 Wash one cupful of rice in three waters. In the first 
 water rub the rice well between the hands. Now pour 
 off this water, and simply rinse the rice in the other two 
 waters. Cover with clean water, and let it soak for one 
 or two hours. Have three quarts of boiling water in 
 a large stew-pan. Turn the rice into it, and cook from 
 fifteen to twenty-five minutes. The time will depend 
 upon the kind of rice used ; but if it be good Southern 
 rice, and not more than a year old, it will cook in fifteen 
 minutes. When it has been cooking for ten minutes, 
 add a geueroui table-spoonful of salt. 
 
542 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 At the end of fifteen minutes press a few grains o 
 rice between the fingers, and if they be found soft, it ia 
 an indication that the rice is cooked sufficiently. Turn 
 it, with the water, into a colander, and drain well. Be 
 very particular to drain it the moment it is done. Never 
 put a cover on the stew-pan, and never stir the rice. 
 
 If these directions be followed carefully, every grain 
 of rice will be separate, and all will be perfectly tender. 
 
 * Boiled Rice, Southern Style. 
 
 Wash a cupful of rice in three waters, rubbing it well 
 between the hands. Now put it in a stew-pan with two 
 teaspoonfuls of salt and two cupfuls and a half of boil- 
 ing water. Place it where it will boil rapidly for fifteen 
 minutes ; then set the pan back where the rice will cook 
 slowly for an hour or more. This mode gives a dish of 
 rice that is sweet and dry. 
 
 .^ . : # 
 
 * Turkish Rice. 
 
 A cupful of rice, one of strained tomato, two of cold 
 water, two table-spoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful of 
 salt, and two ounces of fine-chopped ham are the ingredi- 
 ents required. 
 
 After washing the rice in three waters, put it into 
 a stew-pan with the other materials, and set upon the 
 stove. When the dish begins to boil, put the stew-pan 
 back where its contents will hardly simmer during the 
 next forty minutes. At serving-time turn the rice into a 
 warm dish. Do not use a spoon in making this transfer, 
 as that would be likely to break the grains and mar the 
 appearance of the dish* 
 
 Turkish rice is nice for serving with cold meat or fish 
 or warmed-over meat. 
 
 * Curry of Rice. 
 
 For six or eight persons use one cupful of rice, two- 
 cupfuls and a half of boiling water, two-, tgaspppnfuls ;pf , 
 
VEGETABLES. 543 
 
 salt, two level teaspoonfuls of curry-powder, one-fourth 
 of a teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of minced 
 onion, and two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
 
 Wash the rice in three waters, and then let it soak for 
 two hours in fresh cold water. At the end of the two 
 hours drain it thoroughly. Put the butter and onion in 
 a stew-pan, and cook until the onion acquires a light 
 straw-color. Now add the rice, and stir over a hot fire 
 for five minutes. Draw the stew-pan aside, and add 
 the curry-powder, pepper, and salt. Stir well, and then 
 add the water. Cover the stew-pan, and let the con- 
 tents boil rapidly for ten minutes ; then set back to a 
 place where the cooking will go on slowly for forty or 
 fifty minutes. 
 
 This vegetable dish is nice with any kind of fish or 
 meat that has been prepared in a sauce. 
 
 * Baked Hominy. 
 
 After washing a cupful of hominy in three waters, 
 pour upon it a pint and a half of boiling water, and boil 
 for twenty minutes ; then add a table-spoonful of butter, 
 a scant table-spoonful of salt, and half a pint of milk. 
 Butter a deep pudding-dish, and pour the mixture into 
 it. Bake for forty minutes in a moderate oven. 
 
 Prepared in this way, hominy answers either as a 
 vegetable or as a pudding. 
 
 * Baked Beans. 
 
 It is rather singular that that particular section of the 
 country which is credited with the greatest consumption 
 of beans does not produce the vegetable in large quanti- . 
 ties, but depends upon the Middle States for apart of 
 the supply. No other vegetable has so great a food 
 value, though peas and lentils are almost as nutritious; 
 and despite the light manner in which reference is com- 
 mp.nly.made to the bean, the country is much indebted 
 
, 544 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 to it as food for man and beast. One frequent failing in 
 the preparation of beans is to allow too little time for 
 cooking. The process of cooking them properly is a 
 long and slow one, and forgetfulness in this respect is 
 the reason why the dish is often unsatisfactory. 
 
 If the family consist of eight or ten persons, a quart 
 of dry pea beans will be sufficient to cook. Use also a 
 pound of salt pork, a table-spoonful of molasses, a gener- 
 ous table-spoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of mustard, 
 and one-fourth of a teaspoonful of soda. 
 
 Examine the beans carefully, removing all that are 
 not good, and all foreign substances ; then wash them 
 carefully. Let them soak over night in a pan containing 
 two gallons of cold water. In the morning pour off this 
 water, and rinse the beans in cold water ; then put them 
 in a stew-pan with six quarts of cold water. Score the 
 rind of the pork, cutting it into little squares, and being 
 careful not to cut deeper than the rind. Put the pork 
 into the stew-pan with the beans, and set on the stove. 
 Heat slowly to the boiling-point, and simmer for a quarter 
 of an hour from the time they begin to boil. At the end 
 of the fifteen minutes turn the beans into a colander, 
 and drain off all the water. Pour cold water over them 
 to rinse them thoroughly. Put half the beans into an 
 earthen pot, and then put in the pork, rind side up. 
 Now put in the remainder of the beans. Mix the 
 molasses, mustard, salt, and soda with one quart of 
 boiling water, and pour over the pork and beans. If 
 the liquid does not wholly cover the beans, add more 
 boiling water. There should be only enough to come to 
 the top of the beans. Cover the pot, and cook the beans 
 slowly for ten hours. Boiling water should be added 
 from time to time when it is found that there is not 
 enough to cover the beans. 
 
 At serving-time turn out on a flat dish, and place the 
 pork in the centre. If the beans have been properly 
 cooked, each will be whole, yet all will be tender and 
 
VEGETABLES. 545 
 
 have a rich reddish color. Care and slow cooking alone 
 will give this result. 
 
 * Stewed Beans. 
 
 Wash one quart of beans (scarlet runners are the 
 best), and soak them over night. In the morning set 
 them on the fire with half a pound of mixed salt pork. 
 They can be cooked in four hours, but will be better 
 cooked an hour longer. If the pork should not flavor it 
 enough, season with a little salt. 
 
 Ml oT 
 
546 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 SPECIAL ARTICLES. 
 
 BRIOCHE PASTE. 
 
 DISHES made of brioche paste are not often found in 
 this country except at the foreign pastry-shops. It is a 
 pity that this should be the case, for they are light and 
 healthful. There appears to be an idea that they are 
 difficult to make, but they are not more so than many 
 which are quite common in every household. Care must 
 be taken that the ingredients are used in the proper 
 proportion, and that the paste is properly worked, raised, 
 chilled, and baked. If this be done, the cakes will be as 
 good as those found in any of the first-class shops in 
 New York. In Paris a man got rich by making a spe- 
 cialty of warm loaves of brioche. In New York there 
 are several small pastry-shops, kept by Frenchmen, where 
 plain brioche loaves are for sale on Saturdays, and there 
 is a large demand for them. It is hoped that many 
 readers will try the simple rules given in this article. 
 With the plain paste there can be made the plain loaf, 
 baba, wine cakes, rum cakes, Savarin, fritters, Munich 
 cakes, etc. These various cakes are made by the addi- 
 tion of fruits and flavors, and by changes of shape and in 
 the modes of cooking. 
 
 To Make the Paste. 
 
 For two large loaves there will be required one quart 
 of flour, one generous cupful of butter, one gill of water, 
 one table-spoonful of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, half 
 
SPECIAL ARTICLES. 547 
 
 a cake of compressed yeast, and eight small eggs, or 
 seven large ones. 
 
 Dissolve the yeast in the water, which should be blood 
 warm. Put some boiling water in a small bowl, and let 
 it stand for five minutes ; then pour out the water, wipe 
 the bowl dry, and put a cupful of the flour into it. Add 
 the dissolved yeast to the flour, and beat well. Cover the 
 bowl, and set it in a warm place say where the tem- 
 perature is about 80 until the mixture rises to 
 double its size. About an hour will be required for the 
 rising. 
 
 Half an hour after the sponge has been set, put the 
 remainder of the flour, and the salt, sugar, butter, and 
 three of the eggs into a large bowl. Mix these ingre- 
 dients well with the hand, and when a smooth paste is 
 formed, add the remainder of the eggs, one at a time ; 
 beating the paste vigorously until it is very light and 
 smooth. The eggs should not be beaten before they are 
 added. Now, if the sponge be risen, add it to the paste, 
 and beat well ; should it not be risen, it will not hurt the 
 beaten mixture to stand awhile. 
 
 When the sponge is thoroughly incorporated with the 
 paste, cover the bowl and set in a warm place. It will 
 take about six hours for the sponge to rise sufficiently. 
 When it becomes light, beat it well and then put it into 
 the ice-chest. If possible, put it on or beside the ice. 
 Let it remain there for ten or twelve hours, and it will 
 then be ready for use. 
 
 The sponge may be set at two o'clock in the afternoon 
 and be added to the paste at three. The paste will be 
 ready to put on ice at nine o'clock, and in the morning 
 it will be ready to use in any form. 
 
 Brioche Loaf, to be Eaten Plain and Hot. 
 
 For a small loaf take a heaping cupful of the chilled 
 paste, and form it into a smooth ball. Put this on a 
 
548 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 floured board, and roll down to the thickness of half an 
 inch. Tear a hole in the centre of the cake. Now twist 
 this paste inward and into a rope-like shape. This will 
 give a form something like a crown. Place the paste in 
 
 Brioche Loaf on a Napkin. 
 
 a buttered pan or on a tin plate, and let it rise for half 
 an hour in a warm place. Bake in a moderate oven for 
 twenty minutes, and serve hot on a napkin. 
 
 This kind of loaf is nice for luncheon or tea. When 
 wanted for tea, keep the paste on ice until the afternoon ; 
 or the loaf may be baked in the morning and warmed at 
 serving-time. 
 
 The loaf made of the ingredients mentioned will be 
 quite small, and if a larger one be desired, double the 
 quantity of ingredients and allow ten minutes longer for 
 the baking. Loaves may be shaped like balls, and be cut 
 across with a sharp knife before they have risen or been 
 baked; or they may be put into any kind of pan, and 
 allowed to rise to twice their original height before they 
 are baked. The paste is so soft that the work must be 
 done quickly when the loaf is to be of the crown shape, 
 that first described. It grows very soft as it becomes 
 warm. 
 
 These warm brioche loaves are particularly nice to 
 serve with berries and cream, or with preserved fruit 
 and cream. 
 
 Baba. 
 
 To make a large loaf of baba, use three cupfuls of the 
 paste, half a cupful of dried currants, one cupful of 
 raisins, and one gill of wine. 
 
SPECIAL ARTICLES. 549 
 
 Soak the fruit in the wine over night. In the morning 
 work the fruit and wine into the paste. Butter a deep 
 mould, and put the paste into it. Cover, and put in a 
 warm place to rise to twice the original size. It will 
 take about an hour and a half. Bake in a moderate 
 oven for forty minutes. On taking from the oven, 
 turn from the mould on a deep plate or dish, the top of 
 the cake being down. Let it cool in this position. 
 
 While the cake is cooling, make a syrup by boiling 
 together for twelve minutes one cupful of sugar and 
 three-fourths of a cupful of water. At the end of the 
 twelve minutes add four table-spoonfuls of rum to the 
 syrup, and pour the liquid over the cake, being careful 
 to wet the sides with it. Let the dish get perfectly cold, 
 and serve it as dessert. 
 
 Savarin. 
 
 For this cake use four cupfuls of the paste, one cupful 
 of chopped almonds, half a cupful of candied orange peel, 
 cut very fine, and a syrup made like that for baba ; sub- 
 stituting, however, two table-spoonfuls of anisette (a cor- 
 dial) for the rum mentioned in the preceding receipt. 
 
 Work the candied orange peel into the paste. Butter 
 a round cake-pan thickly with washed butter, and sprinkle 
 the bottom and sides with the chopped almonds. Put 
 the paste into this pan, and after letting it rise to double 
 its original size, bake it in a moderate oven for three- 
 quarters of an hour. On taking from the oven, turn out 
 on a dish, and pour the syrup over it. Serve either hot 
 or cold for dessert. 
 
 Wine Cakes. 
 
 Put three cupfuls of the paste into a deep mould, and 
 let it rise to double its original size. Bake for forty -five 
 minutes. 
 
 Boil one cupful and a half of sugar with one cupful 
 
550 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 of water for twelve minutes ; then add a gill of sherry. 
 When the cake is done, turn it out on a deep plate or 
 dish, and pour the hot syrup over it. Serve hot or cold. 
 
 Wine Cakes. 
 
 Small cakes are made by letting one gill of the paste 
 rise to a little more than double its first height in either 
 dariole moulds or individual charlotte-russe moulds. Bake 
 for twenty minutes ; then turn out, and pour hot syrup 
 over them. The syrup may be flavored with wine, rum, 
 orange or lemon juice, or with any kind of cordial. 
 
 Brioche Fritters. 
 
 Roll some brioche paste down to the thickness of half 
 an inch, and with a jagging-iron or a sharp knife cut it 
 into strips four inches long and two wide. Drop these 
 into boiling fat, and cook for six minutes. Drain on 
 brown paper ; then arrange on a warm dish, and sprinkle 
 with powdered sugar. Serve at once with a plentiful 
 quantity of hot syrup flavored with fruit juice or wine. 
 
 Another kind of fritter is made by rolling the paste 
 until it is only a quarter of an inch thick, and cutting 
 it into large rounds with a plain or fancy cutter ; next 
 putting half a teaspoonful of apricot or some other kind 
 of jam in the centre of each round ; then folding the 
 edges over and sticking them with the beaten white of 
 an egg, and finally frying in fat for five minutes. Serve 
 with hot syrup, 
 
SPECIAL ARTICLES. 551 
 
 With the quantity of materials given on page 546 a 
 good deal of paste can be made, enough for three loaves 
 of any of the dishes named ; so in a small family it will 
 be wise to use only half the usual quantities at first. 
 
 * CURRY-POWDER AND ITS USES. 
 
 It is remarkable how few people in this country un- 
 derstand how to prepare a sauce or a dish with the use of 
 curry-powder. This should not be the case, as a bottle 
 of the powder, costing only twenty-five cents, will^enable 
 one to make agreeable changes in the composition of 
 dishes for twenty or more meals. When used in a soup, 
 the quantity must be very small, just enough to give a 
 little tone, say half a teaspoonful to three or four 
 quarts of soup or of a stew ; but when used in a sauce 
 for meat or fish, there should be enough to give color 
 and pronounced character. When the taste for this con- 
 diment is acquired, it proves strong. Curry is especially 
 useful in flavoring sauces for meats and fish which have 
 been warmed over, making them very appetizing. 
 
 The simplest mode of preparing a dish of curry is 
 this : Free one quart of cold meat of skin, fat, and bones, 
 and cut it into small pieces. Put it in a frying-pan with 
 three table-spoonfuls of butter and one of chopped onion. 
 Cook for five minutes, stirring frequently. Now add 
 two table-spoonfuls of flour and one heaping teaspoonful 
 of curry-powder (Cross & BlackwelPs u Genuine Indian 
 Curry " is the best). Stir for one minute ; then draw 
 the pan back, and gradually add one pint of cold stock 
 or cold water. Boil for two minutes, stirring all the 
 time ; then add half a teaspoonful of salt, and boil for 
 three minutes longer. 
 
 Sprinkle a generous teaspoonful of salt on the cold 
 meat, and put the meat in a stew-pan. Strain the curry- 
 sauce over it, and cook the dish for five minutes. Serve 
 with boiled rice. One cupful of the uncooked rice will 
 
552 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 be enough for the quantity of curry mentioned, and the 
 dish will be sufficient for serving to six persons. It 
 should not be accompanied by potatoes. 
 
 Madras Curry. 
 
 This is more delicate than the ordinary curry. It 
 may be made with any kind of cold meat and with most 
 kinds of fish. The ingredients are : half a cocoanut, the 
 milk of a cocoanut, one gill of cow's milk, two good- 
 sized onions, three table-spoonfuls of butter, one heap- 
 ing teaspoonful of curry-powder, two table-spoonfuls of 
 flour, one pint of the liquor in which the meat or fish 
 was cooked, one scant quart of cooked meat or fish, and 
 about one level table-spoonful of salt. 
 
 Bore a hole in the cocoanut, and pour out the milk. 
 Now crack the nut, and pare the brown skin from one- 
 half of it. Grate this half, and add it to the milk. Add 
 the cow's milk to the mixture ; and after a good stirring, 
 place the dish in the refrigerator for two or three hours. 
 
 Unless cold meat is to be used, put the meat or fish on 
 to cook in as little water as possible. Simmer until so 
 tender that it may be cut with a spoon. When the meat 
 is done, take it from the liquor, and put both away to 
 cool. When cold, free the meat or fish of skin, bone, 
 and fat, and cut it into small pieces. Free the liquor 
 of fat. Chop the onions rather fine, and put them in a 
 stew-pan with the butter. Cook slowly for ten minutes ; 
 then add the flour and curry-powder, and draw the pan 
 to a hotter part of the range. Stir the mixture until it 
 becomes frothy ; then draw the stew-pan back to a cooler 
 place, and gradually add the pint of liquor, stirring all 
 the while. Boil for two minutes ; then strain the milk 
 from the cocoanut into the mixture, pressing every par- 
 ticle of moisture from the grated nut. Stir well, and 
 simmer for ten minutes. 
 
 Put the meat or fish in a stew-pan and sprinkle the 
 
SPECIAL ARTICLES. 553 
 
 salt over it ; then strain the hot curry-sauce over it. 
 Cover, and simmer for twenty minutes or half an hour. 
 Serve in a warm covered dish. 
 
 A dish of boiled rice should be served with this dish. 
 
 If meat or fish left from a previous meal be used, take 
 a pint of some kind of light stock (such as the water in 
 which chicken or veal was boiled) instead of the liquor 
 called for. 
 
 If one like a very strong flavor of curry, double the 
 quantity of powder may be used. 
 
 The fish most suited for this curry are prawns, shrimp, 
 and lobster. When they are used they should not be 
 cooked in the sauce for more than ten minutes. Oysters, 
 scallops, and clams may be used in a curry ; but they 
 must be well drained, and should cook in the sauce for 
 only six or eight minutes. 
 
 Any kind of meat may be used in a curry ; but the 
 delicate light meats, such as chicken, turkey, veal, lamb, 
 sweetbreads, etc., are best. Any of the following-named 
 relishes may be served with the curry : Chutney, boiled 
 ham, rashers of bacon, Yarmouth bloaters. 
 
 Honolulu Curry. 
 
 For the sauce for this curry there will be needed a 
 small cocoanut, a quarter of an onion, one clove of garlic, 
 an inch piece of root ginger, two large table-spoonfuls 
 of curry-powder, a quart of milk, four table-spoonfuls of 
 butter, four of flour, and salt and pepper to suit the 
 taste. 
 
 Grate the onion, garlic, ginger, and cocoanut into the 
 double-boiler, and add the curry-powder and milk. Cook 
 slowly for an hour. Beat the butter to a cream ; then 
 add the flour, and beat the mixture until it is smooth 
 and light. Strain upon it the curry mixture, gradually, 
 so that it shall not be lumpy. The meat or fish which 
 is to be served with this sauce should now be added, and 
 
554 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 the dish should be cooked in the double-boiler until boil- 
 ing hot, about a quarter of an hour. 
 
 The quantity of sauce made by following the directions 
 will be sufficient for two cans of shrimp, the meat of 
 two lobsters that together weigh about six pounds, or 
 two good-sized chickens. If the latter be used, they 
 should be fried, broiled, or roasted, and cut into hand- 
 some pieces ; and the meat should be hot when it is 
 added to the sauce. Serve with plain boiled rice. 
 
 * VARIOUS WAYS OF USING A CALF'S 
 HEAD. 
 
 During the spring and summer veal is plentiful and 
 cheap, and a calf s head, which never costs a large sum, 
 may be had at very low price. In old times it was a 
 common dish, but its popularity waned until few house- 
 keepers served it frequently. Lately it has seemed to 
 come into high favor again, though its uses are not what 
 they once were. Formerly it was customary to use the 
 calf's head only in mock turtle soup, or to serve it boiled, 
 with brain sauce; now the meat is made into various 
 dainty dishes which answer for entries or dishes for 
 luncheon or tea, though it is still employed also when 
 mock turtle soup is made. 
 
 When a calf's head is bought at a market it usually is 
 scraped and otherwise cleaned, and is then split open ; 
 but in the country the housekeeper often has to attend 
 to these matters herself. If the head has not been 
 cleaned and split, put it into a deep pan, with water 
 enough to cover it, water that is heated almost to the 
 boiling-point. Set the pan on the stove in a place where 
 the water will bubble for five minutes ; then take up the 
 head, and with the back of the blade of a case-knife 
 scrape all the hairs from the head, being careful to get 
 the ears clean. Now place the head in cold water enough 
 
SPECIAL ARTICLES. 555 
 
 to cover it, and let it stand for two hours. At the end 
 of that time remove the brains, being careful not to 
 break them apart, and put them into a bowl of cold water. 
 Next wash the head carefully, and put it on the stove in 
 a large kettle containing cold water enough to cover it. 
 Every part must be immersed, or that which is left un- 
 covered will become hard and black. Set the kettle where 
 its contents will quickly get heated to the boiling-point. 
 As soon as the water begins to bubble, skim it carefully ; 
 then set the kettle back where the water will simply 
 bubble during the next three hours. Hard boiling will 
 break the head. When the prescribed time has passed, 
 take up the head, and remove all the bones that can be 
 drawn out easily without tearing the meat. Dredge the 
 head with salt and pepper, and after placing it on a warm 
 dish, pour brain, parsley, tomato, or Bechamel sauce over 
 it. Serve at once. 
 
 This is the simplest mode of serving a calf's head. 
 The water in which it was boiled may be used for mock 
 turtle soup or a plain or cream soup. No matter how 
 the head is to be served, it must first be cleaned and 
 boiled as just directed. Half of the head may be served 
 with a garnish of brain force-meat balls; the tongue 
 being cut into four parts, lengthwise, and served with 
 half the head. Any one of the sauces named in the 
 preceding paragraph should be poured around it. The 
 remaining half of the head may be used for one of 
 the following-named dishes. 
 
 Calf's Head, Terrapin Fashion. 
 
 For this dish use one pint of the cold meat of the 
 calf's head, cut into small pieces, one cupful of stock, 
 the water in which the head was boiled will do, half 
 a cupful of cream, one teaspoonful of salt, one-tenth of 
 a teaspoonful of white pepper, and the same quantity 
 of cayenne, one teaspoonful of brandy, two table-spoon- 
 
556 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 fuls of wine, the yolks of two eggs, one table-spoonful 
 of butter, and one level table-spoonful of flour. 
 
 Put the stock on to boil. Beat the butter and flour 
 together until smooth and light, and stir the mixture 
 into the boiling stock. Cook until smooth, say for 
 about a minute, stirring all the while. Add the meat 
 and the salt and pepper, and cook for five minutes. 
 
 Beat the yolks of the eggs well, and add the cream to 
 them ; beating the mixture thoroughly. When the meat 
 has been cooked for five minutes, add the yolks and 
 cream, and cook for one minute longer, stirring all the 
 while. Take from the fire promptly at the end of the 
 minute, and after adding the brandy and wine, serve at 
 once. 
 
 If there should be any delay in the work after the 
 yolks and cream are added, the dish would be spoiled, 
 as the eggs would cook too much, and the sauce would 
 have a curdled appearance ; but there would be no real 
 harm in letting the dish stand on the back of the stove 
 for ten or twenty minutes before the addition of the 
 eggs and cream. 
 
 Cooked poultry, game, and veal may be prepared in 
 the same manner. 
 
 * Calf's Head, with Bisque Sauce. 
 
 Use one quart of the cold meat from the calf's head, 
 cut in slices, one table-spoonful of salt, one-fourth of a 
 teaspoonful of pepper, two table-spoonfuls of butter, two 
 of flour, one cupful and a half of stock, and half a cupful 
 of strained tomato. 
 
 . Put the butter on the stove, in a frying-pan, and when 
 it becomes melted, add the flour. Stir the mixture until 
 it gets smooth and slightly browned ; then draw the pan 
 back where there is less heat, and gradually add the 
 stock. Place the frying-pan again on the hot part of 
 the stove, and stir the contents until they begin to boil. 
 
SPECIAL ARTICLES. 557 
 
 Let them simmer for five minutes ; then add the tomato, 
 meat, and seasoning, and cook for seven minutes. 
 
 Any kind of cold meat may be served in this manner. 
 
 * Curry of Calf's Head. 
 
 Use one quart of the cold meat, cut in slices, one 
 table-spoonful of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, one teaspoonful of curry-powder, one table r 
 spoonful of chopped onion, two large table-spoonfuls of 
 butter, two of flour, one cupful of stock, and one cupful 
 of milk. 
 
 Put the butter and onion in a frying-pan, and cook 
 slowly for five minutes ; then add the flour and curry- 
 powder, and stir over a hot fire for one minute. Draw 
 the pan back, and gradually add the stock. Place the 
 pan again on the hot part of the stove, and stir the 
 mixture until it boils; then add the milk gradually, 
 stirring all the while. Let the mixture simmer for three 
 minutes. 
 
 Put the meat, with the salt and pepper, in a stew-pan, 
 and strain over it the sauce that is in the frying-pan. 
 Cook for six minutes, and serve with a dish of boiled 
 rice. 
 
 Other kinds of cold meat may be used in curries. 
 
 Brain Force-meat Balls. 
 
 Soak the brains in a bowl of cold water for an hour or 
 more ; then remove the thin covering, which is filled 
 with small blood-vessels. Rinse the brains thoroughly 
 in a bowl of cold water. Tie them loosely in a piece of 
 cheese-cloth, and, putting them in a stew-pan with boil- 
 ing water enough to cover them, let them boil for twenty 
 minutes. On taking them from the water let them cool 
 in the cloth ; and when they become cold, mash them 
 smooth with a spoon. Add to them one level tea- 
 spoonful of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, 
 
558 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 one-fourth of a teaspoonful of powdered thyme, one tea- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, one of lemon juice, one well- 
 beaten egg, half a cupful of cracker crumbs, and two 
 table-spoonfuls of melted butter. 
 
 Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and let them stand 
 for half an hour. At the end of that time form the mix- 
 ture into small balls, and roll these in beaten egg and 
 then in bread crumbs. Place the balls in a frying-basket, 
 and cook them in fat for one minute and a half. 
 
 These are nice to serve as a garnish of any of the 
 various preparations of a calf's head ; or, served with 
 tomato, bisque, or Bechamel sauce, they make a good 
 entree. 
 
 The brains may be placed in two separate pieces of 
 cheese-cloth, and boiled and cooled as just directed, then 
 seasoned highly with salt and pepper, rolled in beaten 
 egg and then in bread crumbs, and fried in fat. Served 
 with a sauce, they make an excellent entree. 
 
 * Jellied Calf's Head. 
 
 After cutting the face from the head, for use in mock 
 turtle soup, free the rest of the head of bones and gristle, 
 and chop it rather fine. For each quart allow half a 
 teaspoonful of pepper, three generous teaspoonfuls of 
 salt, the juice of a lemon, a teaspoonful of onion juice, 
 and a pint of the liquor in which the head was boiled. 
 Put all into a stew-pan, and simmer for half an hour ; 
 then add a table-spoonful of capers, and remove the pan 
 from the fire. 
 
 The next steps are to butter a three-pint mould, and 
 to cut into rings those whites of hard-boiled eggs which 
 were left after making egg-balls, and use a part for 
 making a circle on the bottom of the mould. Put a 
 layer of the hot mixture perhaps an inch thick into 
 the mould, and then a layer of the egg whites ; and con- 
 tinue placing these alternate layers until all the materials 
 
SPECIAL ARTICLES. 559 
 
 have been used. Let the dish get perfectly cold ; several 
 hours will be needed. At serving-time dip the mould 
 into warm water, and turn its contents out on a flat dish. 
 Garnish with heart leaves of lettuce. 
 
 Jellied calf's head is a nice dish for either luncheon or 
 supper. 
 
 The foregoing receipts are only a few of many ways 
 in which a cheap and much neglected article of food may 
 be palatably cooked. 
 
 THE WARMING OVER OF MEATS. 
 
 Meats, when recooked, require more careful, delicate 
 handling than in their first preparation. The things 
 essential to success in this branch of cookery are that 
 the meat shall be freed of all fat, shall be cooked only 
 long enough to heat thoroughly, or shall be cooked slowly 
 for a long time. This is particularly true of beef. The 
 meat should be well seasoned and be served very hot. 
 Here is a good general rule : 
 
 First cut off all the fat ; then cut the meat into the 
 kind of pieces you desire to have. This should be done 
 several hours before the time to cook the dish, the meat 
 being kept meanwhile in a cool place. Now put the 
 bones and gristle in a stew-pan, with cold water enough 
 to cover them, and boil gently for two or three hours. 
 If you choose, you may add a small piece each of carrot, 
 onion, and celery during the last hour. Strain the liquor 
 from the bones, and set away to cool. When cold, skim. 
 This is the stock for making the sauce which is used 
 when the meat is warmed. 
 
 The fat which was trimmed from the meat should be 
 cut up, put in a frying-pan, and placed on the back part 
 of the stove, to be fried slowly. After an hour or two 
 the sediment and solid parts will fall to the bottom of 
 the pan. A clear liquid fat can then be poured off. 
 
560 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Strain into a dripping-jar, and put away in a cool place. 
 The fat from beef, veal, pork, and chickens may be used 
 for frying purposes, but for most tastes mutton, turkey, 
 goose, and ham fat leave too strong a flavor to be mixed 
 with other drippings. The fat from fried or roast ham 
 or from sausages may be kept in a separate jar. It can 
 be used for warming potatoes, frying hominy, etc. 
 
 Many good housekeepers use mutton fat for shorten ing 
 and frying purposes. It is quite as healthful as any of 
 the fats, and if there be no objection to the taste, there 
 is no reason why it should not be used as freely as other 
 fats. 
 
 There are few households where soft soap is not re- 
 quired in the kitchen. The strong fats can be utilized 
 in making this soap, which is a simple matter when 
 the fat is fried and strained as directed. Never wait 
 until the fat has become tainted before trying it out. 
 
 The subject of the care and use of fat is so closely 
 connected with the warming-over of meat that it could 
 not well be passed over ; hence this digression. 
 
 Having the meat cut in suitable pieces and the stock 
 made, the housekeeper will, with a few rules and sugges- 
 tions, be enabled to prepare many appetizing and health- 
 ful dishes. 
 
 The meat must always be seasoned with salt and pep- 
 per ; for if the sauce should have enough seasoning for 
 itself and the meat too, it would be spoiled. Season 
 every pint of meat with a heaping teaspoonful of salt and 
 one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper. 
 
 If the meat be red, like beef, mutton, venison, duck, or 
 grouse, the sauce should be dark ; if it be light, like veal, 
 chicken, or turkey, the sauce also should be light. For a 
 pint of meat, half a pint of sauce will be needed. After 
 the sauce is made, its character and name may be varied 
 by the addition of any of a variety of materials, such as 
 olives, mushrooms, capers, etc. 
 
SPECIAL ARTICLES. 561 
 
 * Brown Sauce. 
 
 Put one. table-spoonful and a half of butter in the 
 frying-pan and on the fire. When the butter gets hot 
 and begins to turn brown, add a generous table-spoonful 
 of flour, and stir until the flour turns dark brown. Now 
 draw the pan to the back part of the stove, and stir until 
 the mixture cools slightly ; then add half a pint of stock, 
 pouring it in gradually and stirring all the while. Place 
 the pan on the hot part of the stove, and stir the sauce 
 until it begins to boil. Add a level teaspoonful of salt 
 and about one-fifth of a teaspoonful of pepper. Simmer 
 for five minutes. 
 
 * Cold Meat Warmed in Brown Sauce. 
 
 Add one pint of meat to the sauce just described, and 
 simmer for five minutes. Serve immediately on a warm 
 dish. 
 
 * White Sauce. 
 
 This is made in the same way as brown sauce, care 
 being taken not to brown the butter and flour. When it 
 has been boiled for three minutes, add one gill of cream 
 or milk. 
 
 * Cold Meat Warmed with Mushrooms. 
 
 Cut half a can of mushrooms in small pieces, and add 
 them to a pint of meat. Heat all in half a pint of brown 
 sauce. 
 
 * Cold Meat Warmed with Macaroni. 
 
 Boil one-eighth of a pound of macaroni for half an 
 hour in one quart of water seasoned with one teaspoonful 
 of salt ; then turn it into a colander to drain. Next put 
 it into a stew-pan with one pint of meat, half a pint of 
 brown or white sauce, and half a pint of strained toma- 
 
562 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 toes. Add one-fifth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, and 
 simmer for eight minutes. Serve very hot. 
 
 Cold Duck Warmed with Olive Sauce. 
 
 Use a pint of meat, half a pint of brown sauce, one 
 dozen stoned olives, one table-spoonful of lemon juice, 
 and a grain of cayenne. Put all the ingredients into a 
 stew-pan, and simmer for five minutes. To some tastes it 
 will be considered as an improvement to add three table- 
 spoonfuls of claret. 
 
 * Cold Meat au Gratin. 
 
 Have a pint of cold meat cut into cubes, and seasoned 
 with salt and pepper. Mix a generous half-pint of white 
 or brown sauce with it. Turn into an escalop-dish hold- 
 ing about a pint and a half, and cover with half a pint 
 of grated bread crumbs. Dot this covering with a scant 
 table-spoonful of butter. Bake in a rather hot oven for 
 twenty minutes, and serve at once. 
 
 * Hashed Meat on Toast. 
 
 Use a pint of meat, half a pint of stock, a generous tea- 
 spoonful of salt, a little pepper, a table-spoonful of flour, 
 a table-spoonful of butter, and six small slices of toast. 
 
 Put the meat in the chopping-tray, and sprinkle over 
 it the salt, pepper, and flour ; then chop it rather coarse. 
 Now put it in a small stew-pan with the stock. Cover, 
 and simmer for half an hour ; then add the butter. 
 Toast the bread and arrange it on a warm dish. Spread 
 the hash upon it, and serve at once. 
 
 If the hash be made of veal or duck, add one table- 
 spoonful of lemon juice just as it is taken from the fire. 
 
 These are only a few of the many healthful dishes 
 that can be prepared by any housekeeper. The labor is 
 
SPECIAL ARTICLES. 563 
 
 slight, but the care should be the same as that given to 
 the most delicate dessert. It will pay a hundred fold, 
 as regards both economy and the attractiveness of the 
 table. 
 
 *A BOILED DINNER. 
 
 Despite the array of savory viands and delectable 
 dainties which may be produced by following modern 
 modes of cooking, there is, for many people, nothing 
 more attractive and satisfying than an old-fashioned salt- 
 fish dinner or a boiled dinner ; yet commonly people do 
 not take the proper amount of pains in preparing either 
 meal. The articles required for a boiled dinner are six 
 or eight pounds of corned beef, a small head of cabbage, 
 enough white or yellow turnips to make three quarts 
 when sliced, three beets of medium size, a dozen good- 
 sized potatoes, four carrots, and, if convenient, the same 
 number of parsnips. 
 
 There are two methods of preparing this dinner : one 
 is to cook the meat and each vegetable separately, and 
 the other is to cook all, except the beets, in one large 
 kettle. The latter mode gives a savory meal ; yet many 
 persons have no appetite for articles which have been 
 boiled in a single utensil and each of which has acquired 
 a combination of flavors from the water as the cooking 
 progressed. By the second method of preparation each 
 article retains its distinctive flavor. All the vegetables 
 should be seasoned with salt and butter at serving-time. 
 
 Cooking the Meat. 
 
 The first step is to prepare the corned beef. The 
 rump or a brisket piece is the most suitable to use. 
 Wash the meat thoroughly, and put it into the kettle 
 with hot water enough to cover it ; or if the meat be 
 very salt, use cold water. Slowly heat the water to the 
 boiling-point, and then skim carefully. Set the kettle 
 
564 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 back where the beef will only simmer for five hours and 
 a half. The water must simply bubble ; rapid cooking 
 would make the meat hard, dry, and stringy. At serving- 
 time put the meat on a large platter, and garnish with a 
 few slices of carrot, beet, and turnip. 
 
 In case the vegetables be cooked with the meat a much 
 larger quantity of water must be used than when the 
 meat is cooked alone, and the kettle must be drawn for- 
 ward to a hotter part of the stove when the vegetables 
 are added. 
 
 Preparation of the Vegetables. 
 
 Cut the stalk and green or bruised leaves from the 
 cabbage ; then cut the cabbage into four parts, and put 
 it into a pan with two table-spoonfuls of salt and cold 
 water enough to cover it. Let it stand for an hour or 
 more. Pare and slice the turnips; pare the potatoes; 
 scrape the carrots and parsnips, and cut them into slices 
 lengthwise. Put all these vegetables into cold water. 
 Wash the beets lightly, being particular not to break the 
 little roots. Put them into a large saucepan with boiling 
 water in plenty, and boil for two hours if the beets be 
 small, or for three hours if they be large. As beets 
 grow older they require more time for cooking. When 
 the beets are done, plunge them into cold water; for 
 this will enable you to rub off the skin readily. Slice 
 thin, and season with butter and salt, unless vinegar be 
 preferred. 
 
 Boil the cabbage for two hours, and during the last 
 half-hour add a table-spoonful of salt. Sometimes half a 
 pound of lean salt pork is cooked for five hours in the 
 water, put into the kettle in which the cabbage is to be 
 boiled, three hours before the vegetable is put in, and 
 the remaining two while the cabbage is cooking. When 
 this is done it is customary to place the pork on the dish 
 with the beef* and serve a thin slice to anybody desiring 
 
SPECIAL ARTICLES. 565 
 
 it. The cabbage should be drained in a colander after 
 the cooking, and cut with a knife as it is drained, or it 
 may be put into a chopping-tray and chopped fine, salt 
 and butter being added, about a table-spoonful of butter 
 and a teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 The carrots and parsnips should be put into boiling 
 water, and cooked for an hour ; the potatoes and turnips 
 should be put into boiling water, and cooked for half 
 an hour. 
 
 If the vegetables are to be cooked with the meat, after 
 the latter has been simmering for three hours, the kettle 
 must be placed on a hotter part of the range, and the 
 cabbage be added; an hour later add the carrots and 
 parsnips ; and half an hour afterward add the turnips 
 and potatoes. At serving-time take up the potatoes, and 
 set them in a dish on the back part of the stove, cover- 
 ing them with a towel. Take up the cabbage, and let it 
 drain; then remove the rest of the vegetables and the 
 meat. The meat, being salt, gives the vegetables suffi- 
 cient seasoning, so they need only be placed in the 
 proper dishes. Everything should be served very hot, 
 and there should be mixed mustard and vinegar on the 
 table. 
 
 *A SALT-FISH DINNER. 
 
 Outside New England a salt-fish dinner is hardly 
 known, and even in that section it is rarely served in 
 such perfection in the interior as it is in the towns bor- 
 dering on the coast. To the uninitiated it may seem to 
 be a very insignificant meal ; but to those who know 
 what it really is, few dinners are more attractive. The 
 preparation of a salt-fish dinner calls for care and skill. 
 The materials should be of the very best. Codfish is 
 the only suitable fish to use, and dunfish is better than 
 white ; the process of curing the former being preferable 
 to that of curing white fish, and the result being a darker 
 and richer fish. But whichever fish is used, the treat- 
 
566 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 ment is the same. The fish never should be cut before 
 cooking. 
 
 Preparation of the Fish. 
 
 A genuine salt-fish dinner is composed of a whole salt 
 cod, beets, carrots, onions, potatoes, salt pork, butter, 
 hard-boiled eggs, flour, salt, and pepper. The night 
 before the dinner is to be served, wash the fish care- 
 fully. It is best to use for this purpose a brush such as 
 is used for scrubbing hams. Cut off the fins and tail. 
 Put the fish into a large pan, skin side up ; and soak it 
 over night in sufficient water to cover it. 
 
 The next day place the fish, skin side up, in a fish- 
 kettle or in a large pan. Place on the fire where the 
 water will heat slowly to the boiling-point without actu- 
 ally boiling ; then set back where it will keep hot for 
 five or six hours. If care be taken not to let the fish 
 boil, it will break into soft, rich, gelatinous flakes when 
 served ; but if it be boiled, it will be dry, thready, and 
 hard. 
 
 Cooking the Beets. 
 
 Beets may be boiled without washing. When they 
 are washed the little roots are apt to be broken, and 
 the juices escape. This impoverishes the vegetables and 
 spoils the color. The time of cooking depends upon 
 the age. When they are small and young they may be 
 cooked in less than an hour, but as the season advances 
 the time must be increased. In September, October, 
 and November they should be cooked for two hours ; in 
 December and January they will require about three 
 hours' cooking; and in the spring four hours' will be 
 none too much. They need steady, gentle boiling. When 
 they are done, pour off the hot water, and cover them 
 with cold water. Rub off the skin, and slice them. 
 They may be seasoned with salt, pepper, and butter, or 
 served without any seasoning. 
 
SPECIAL ARTICLES. 567 
 
 What to Do with the Other Vegetables. 
 
 The carrots should be scraped, sliced lengthwise, and 
 then cut into pieces about three inches long. Let them 
 stand for an hour or more in cold water ; then boil for 
 an hour in plenty of water. Pour off the water, and 
 add to each quart of carrots one level table-spoonful of 
 sugar, two table-spoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful of 
 salt, and one gill of stock or boiling water. Let the 
 carrots boil till they absorb all the moisture. 
 
 Peel the onions, and boil them in plenty of water for 
 one hour ; adding to eight onions, in the last half -hour, 
 one table-spoonful of salt. Pour off the water at the 
 end of the hour. Add enough milk to cover the onions ; 
 then simmer for half an hour longer. At the end of 
 that time put them in a dish, and sprinkle with salt and 
 pepper. Add a table-spoonful of butter and a gill of 
 the milk in which they were boiled. Unless milk be 
 plentiful, it need not be used. 
 
 The potatoes should be pared, and then soaked in cold 
 water for an hour. Put them into a kettle, cover them 
 with boiling water, and cook for half an hour. They 
 should not be boiled rapidly. When they have been 
 cooking for fifteen minutes, add salt in the proportion of 
 a table-spoonful for every dozen potatoes. 
 
 When these vegetables are done, drain off every drop 
 of water. If the potatoes must wait a little time before 
 serving, lay a coarse towel over them, and place the 
 stew-pan on the back part of the stove, where its con- 
 tents will keep hot. 
 
 Making Pork Scraps. 
 
 Pork scraps are made by cutting salt pork into cubes 
 and frying them slowly for twenty minutes. At the end 
 of that time draw the pan forward where the heat is 
 greater. Stir the pork until it becomes brown and crisp ; 
 
568 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 then take from the fire at once. At serving-time make 
 very hot. 
 
 Egg Sauce. 
 
 Egg sauce is made by beating together half a cupful 
 of butter and a table- spoonful of flour ; adding half a 
 pint of boiling water ; setting the saucepan on the fire, 
 and stirring until the sauce begins to boil ; immediately 
 drawing the saucepan back, and adding half a teaspoonful 
 of salt and half a salt-spoonful of white pepper ; chopping 
 two hard-boiled eggs rather fine, doing it with a plated 
 knife or spoon, and adding them to the mixture already 
 prepared. 
 
 Serving the Dinner. 
 
 The fish, vegetables, and sauces being cooked, the dinner 
 should be served in dishes which you are particular to 
 have warm. There will be needed one large platter, four 
 vegetable-dishes, and two sauce-boats. Place the whole 
 fish, skin side up, on the platter, and garnish it with 
 carrot, beet, and parsley. Dish the vegetables, and send 
 everything to the table hot. In serving the fish slip the 
 knife under the skin, and fold the skin back. Cut out a 
 handsome piece of fish, and serve with either egg sauce 
 or pork scraps. The fish may be skinned before it is 
 sent to the table, but it will not keep so hot. 
 
 Any fish left from the meal may be used for fish-balls 
 or hash. If any beets be left, take them for a salad or 
 pickle. Sometimes they are chopped fine and added to 
 fish-balls or hash. Egg sauce and pork scraps often are 
 disposed of in the same way. 
 
 
A GROUP OF SIMPLE DISHES. 569 
 
 A GROUP OF SIMPLE DISHES. 
 
 IN this chapter are given a few simple dishes for break- 
 fast and tea. But they form only a small proportion of 
 the entire number of this kind contained in the book. 
 In the chapters on " Dishes of Eggs " and " Cheese 
 Dishes " there are many good things for the breakfast 
 and supper table, not to speak of various receipts else- 
 where. 
 
 * Peach Short-cake. 
 
 Pare and cut, in very thin slices, enough peaches to 
 measure three pints when sliced. Put the fruit in a 
 large bowl, and sprinkle it with a generous cupful of 
 granulated sugar. Let it stand in a cool place for half 
 an hour or more. 
 
 Mix one quart of flour, one teaspoonful of soda, two 
 of cream-of-tartar, one of salt, and one of sugar, and rub 
 the mixture through a sieve. Now rub into the dry 
 mixture four table-spoonfuls of butter. Add a cupful 
 and a half of milk ; mix quickly until smooth dough is 
 formed. This should be divided into six parts, and each 
 part be rolled down to the size of a tin pie-plate of 
 medium size. Butter three plates, and lay a piece of 
 dough on each. Spread lightly with soft butter; then 
 lay a second piece of dough on each plate, and place in a 
 hot oven. Bake for ten minutes. 
 
 When the cakes are done, tear them apart, and spread 
 with the peaches. Put on the top pieces, and heap 
 whipped cream on them. Serve the short-cake at once j 
 it will not be good cold. 
 
570 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Strawberry Short-cake. 
 
 Mix well together in a sieve, and then rub through it, 
 one pint of flour, a teaspoonful and a half of baking- 
 powder, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and half a teaspoon- 
 ful of salt. Rub into this mixture three table-spoonfuls 
 of butter, and wet it with almost a teacupful of milk. 
 After sprinkling a board lightly with flour, lay the dough 
 upon it, and roll down to the thickness of about half an 
 inch. Place a jelly-cake plate upon the dough, and cut 
 around its edge with a sharp knife. Enough dough can 
 be made with the materials mentioned above for one to 
 obtain four small cakes. Butter two jelly-cake plates, 
 and place the ca.kes in them two in each plate. Bake 
 in a quick oven for twelve or fifteen minutes. On remov- 
 ing them from the oven, tear them apart (you will not 
 require a knife), and spread between the matched cakes 
 a quart of strawberries, slightly crushed, and sprinkled 
 with a cupful of powdered sugar. It is an improvement 
 to add a pint of whipped cream to the fruit. Serve 
 immediately. 
 
 * Adirondack Strawberry Short-cake. 
 
 This rather novel delicacy calls for the use of three 
 pints of strawberries, one cupful of sugar, one quart of 
 sour milk, one quart of flour, two eggs, four table-spoon- 
 fuls of melted butter, two teaspooufuls of soda, and one 
 teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 If the cake be desired for supper, in the morning pour 
 the sour milk upon the flour, and beat thoroughly. Let 
 the mixture stand in a warm place until evening ; then 
 dissolve the soda in one table-spoonful of cold water, 
 and add it to the batter, together with the salt and the 
 eggs, well beaten. Fry this batter on a griddle, like 
 common griddle-cakes, but have each cake the size of a tea 
 plate. Butter the cakes as they come from the griddle, 
 
A GROUP OF SIMPLE DISHES. 571 
 
 and spread each with a thin layer of crushed straw- 
 berries. Sprinkle lightly with sugar. There should be 
 three griddle-cakes and three layers of berries for each 
 plate, and the short-cake should be served hot. By many 
 people a dish of whipped cream will be found to be an 
 agreeable accompaniment. 
 
 The batter for this cake makes very nice plain griddle- 
 cakes, and if it be used for such the eggs may be 
 omitted. 
 
 Cream Waffles. 
 
 Use half a cupful of butter, half a pint of cream, half 
 a pint of milk, one pint of flour, half a teasjpoonful of 
 salt, and four eggs. 
 
 Beat the butter to a cream. Add the well-beaten yolks 
 of the eggs and the salt, and beat for two minutes. Now 
 add the flour, milk, and cream, alternating with a gill of 
 the liquid and a gill of the flour. When all has beeii 
 beaten together until smooth, add the whites of the eggs, 
 beaten to a stiff froth. 
 
 These waffles are delicious, but of course expensive. 
 It is very important that the materials be combined in 
 just the order given. 
 
 * Raised Wheat Waffles. 
 
 Warm a pint of milk, and add to it two table-spoonfuls 
 of melted butter, two of sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, and 
 half a cupful of yeast, or half a cake of compressed 
 yeast. After sifting a pint and a half of flour, pour this 
 mixture upon it, and beat thoroughly. Add two eggs, 
 well beaten ; and after covering the dish closely, set in 
 a warm place, so that its contents shall rise. The mix- 
 ture should be light in four hours. 
 
 Make the waffle-irons very hot, and after rubbing them 
 slightly with fat salt pork, pour into them a thin layer 
 of the batter. When the waffles get brown on both sides, 
 
572 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 which will be in about a minute and a half, serve them 
 at once. Delay makes them deteriorate. 
 
 * Hominy Waffles. 
 
 These are made of a cupful of hot or cold boiled 
 hominy, a cupful of milk, a cupful and a half of flour, 
 two eggs, one heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder, one 
 table-spoonful of melted butter, and half a teaspoonful 
 of salt. 
 
 Break up the hominy with a fork, and gradually beat 
 the milk into it. Mix the baking-powder and flour, and 
 sift over the hominy. Add the salt, and beat well ; then 
 add the eggs, well beaten, and cook the mixture as other 
 waffles are cooked. The waffle-iron should be very hot. 
 
 The first lot of waffles or griddle-cakes never will be 
 so good as those that follow, because after the iron has 
 been used it will become smooth, and the heat will be 
 more even. 
 
 * Indian Waffles. 
 
 These are delicious if served as soon as taken from 
 the fire. They are made of a cupful of flour, a cupful of 
 Indian white meal, two cupfuls of sour milk, half a 
 cupful of sour cream, half a teaspoonful of salt, two 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar, one teaspoonful of soda, one 
 table-spoonful of cold water, and two eggs. 
 
 Mix the sugar, salt, meal, and flour. Beat the eggs 
 until they are light. Dissolve the soda in the table- 
 spoonful of cold water, and stir it into the sour milk and 
 cream. Pour the liquid upon the dry mixture; then 
 add the beaten eggs, and stir well. Have the waffle-irons 
 very hot, and after rubbing them lightly with a piece of 
 fat salt pork, pour a thin layer of the batter into one 
 half of the iron. Drop the other half gently upon the 
 first one, and then turn the iron over. Cook until the 
 waffle is brown on both sides, say for about two 
 minutes. 
 
A GROUP OF SIMPLE DISHES. 573 
 
 * Buckwheat Cakes. 
 
 The buckwheat cake is often exceedingly disappoint 
 ing. Sometimes it is so good that one may fancy it 
 would be impossible to tire of the dish; yet the next 
 time it may be so poor that almost anything would seem 
 preferable. 
 
 In making the cakes it must be remembered that it is 
 difficult to have them light and dry when they are made 
 wholly of buckwheat flour, and that the batter, if raised 
 with fresh yeast, will not be so good as that which is 
 raised with some of the unused batter of the previous 
 day. Here is a rule which should give perfect cakes : 
 
 Into a deep pail or pan put a pint of buckwheat, half 
 a cupful of Indian meal (white is best), a teaspoonful of 
 salt, and half a cupful of liquid yeast or half a cake of 
 compressed yeast, the latter to be first dissolved in 
 half a cupful of water. Add to the ingredients in the 
 pail a little more than a pint of warm water and a table- 
 spoonful of molasses. Beat the mixture thoroughly, 
 and place where it will rise. The batter should rise 
 and fall again before morning. In the morning sift into 
 the batter one teaspoonful of dry soda. Stir well, and 
 fry. 
 
 If you have the cakes, say three times a week, you 
 will not require fresh yeast after the first batch if you 
 reserve a little more than a pint of the batter in a cool 
 place, and use that instead. The griddle, for any kind 
 of batter cakes, should be kept as hot as possible without 
 danger of burning the cakes. 
 
 * These are delicate and delicious. In making them 
 use two cupfuls of buckwheat, two cupfuls and a half of 
 warm water, one cupful of stale bread, one cupful of 
 milk, one teaspoonful of salt, and half a cake of com- 
 pressed yeast. 
 
574 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Dissolve the yeast in half a cupful of the water ; then 
 put this water with the remaining cupfuls, and pour all 
 upon the buckwheat. Add the salt, and beat for ten or 
 fifteen minutes ; then cover the mixture, and set it in a 
 warm place to rise. 
 
 Put the bread into a bowl with the milk, and let it 
 soak over night in a cool place. In the morning mash it 
 till fine and light, and add it to the risen buckwheat 
 batter. Fry as any griddle-cakes are fried. 
 
 * Sweet-Milk Griddle-cakes. 
 
 For six people use a pint and a half of flour, a pint of 
 milk, two eggs, a level teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoon- 
 f uls of baking-powder, and three table-spoonfuls of melted 
 butter. 
 
 Mix the dry ingredients, and rub them through a sieve. 
 Add the milk and the eggs, well beaten. Now add the 
 melted butter, and fry the cakes at once. 
 
 * Indian Griddle-cakes. 
 
 To make enough for six people one should take half a 
 pint of fine corn meal, half a pint of flour, a pint of boil- 
 ing water, three gills of cold milk, one teaspoonful of 
 baking-powder, one teaspoonful of salt, and two eggs. 
 
 Put the meal, salt, and sugar into a bowl, and pour the 
 boiling water upon them. Beat thoroughly, and then 
 add the cold milk. Let the mixture stand until it be- 
 comes perfectly cold ; then mix the flour and baking- 
 powder, and sift into the bowl. Blend thoroughly, and 
 add the eggs, well beaten. The cakes should be small, 
 well browned, and thoroughly cooked. 
 
 Another kind of Indian griddle-cake is made by scald- 
 ing the half-pint of meal with the boiling water and 
 adding, when the mixture gets cold, a pint of sour milk, 
 
A GROUP OF SIMPLE DISHES. 575 
 
 a cupful and a half of flour, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, 
 and one teaspoonful of salt, and also adding, the next 
 morning, a teaspoonful of soda, which has been dissolved 
 in two table-spoonfuls of cold water. 
 
 If one have any sour cream, it will be well to use half 
 a pint of milk and half a pint of cream instead of a full 
 pint of milk. 
 
 * Bread Griddle-cakes. 
 
 Put a pint of stale bread and a pint of milk into a 
 deep bowl, and after covering, let them stand over night 
 in a warm place. In the morning rub through a colander, 
 and add to the mixture a teaspoonful of salt, two table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, one teaspoonful of soda (previously 
 dissolved in two table-spoonfuls of cold water), one cup- 
 ful of flour, and two eggs, beaten well. If you choose 
 you may also add a light grating of nutmeg ; and should 
 you have a few spoonfuls of sour cream, the cakes will 
 be improved by using it at this point. It takes more 
 time to fry these cakes than the plain flour griddle- 
 cakes. 
 
 * Graham Griddle-cakes. 
 
 Mix together a cupful of flour, a cupful of graham, a 
 table-spoonful of sugar, and half a teaspoonful of salt. 
 Beat two eggs, the whites and yolks separately. Dis- 
 solve a teaspoonful of soda in two table-spoonfuls of cold 
 water, and stir into one pint of sour milk. Add this 
 to the dry mixture, and when both are well mixed, add 
 the beaten eggs and a heaping table-spoonful of melted 
 butter. Fry the same as any other griddle-cakes. 
 
 * Rice Griddle-cakes. 
 
 These are extra nice. Put a pint of boiled rice to a 
 pint of milk, to stand over night, and in the morning 
 add a pint and a half of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, a 
 
576 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 table-spoonful of sugar, and a table-spoonful of melted 
 butter. Beat the mixture well, and add three well- 
 beaten eggs and a pint of milk in which a teaspoonful 
 of baking-powder has been stirred. Fry on a hot 
 griddle. 
 
 If you have half a pint of cream, substitute it for the 
 table-spoonful of butter. 
 
 * After dissolving a teaspoonful of soda in a table- 
 spoonful of cold water, stir it into a pint of sour milk. 
 Add a generous pint of flour ; and when the mixture is 
 smooth, add a cupful of cold boiled rice, two well-beaten 
 eggs, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Fry the cakes till 
 they turn a rich brown. 
 
 * Green Corn Griddle-cakes. 
 
 If one think the use of eggs a piece of extravagance, 
 this may seem to be a very expensive dish. For six 
 persons use half a dozen eggs, a pint of grated uncooked 
 corn, about ten ears, half a pint of milk, one pint of 
 flour, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and two teaspoonfuls 
 of salt. Beat the eggs until they are light, and mix 
 with the other materials. Fry the batter on a griddle 
 in small cakes. 
 
 * Oatmeal. 
 
 All that is needed is half a pint of meal, three pints 
 of boiling water, and one teaspoonful of salt. Into the 
 water stir the meal, being particular to stir well from 
 the bottom of the stew-pan. Keep the dish for half an 
 hour where it will boil moderately, and during this period 
 stir it three times ; then add the salt, stirring well, and 
 after covering the dish closely, put it back where it will 
 simply bubble for .an hour and a half. It should not be 
 stirred at all. In the morning a double-boiler will be 
 
A GROUP OF SIMPLE DISHES. 577 
 
 needed. This utensil consists of a tin pail fitting into 
 another considerably larger, the space between the two 
 being filled with water, so that the contents of the inner 
 pail can never acquire a burnt flavor. Into the double- 
 boiler pour half a cupful of boiling water, and into this 
 water turn the cooked oatmeal. Set the dish where it 
 will heat while the remainder of the breakfast is being 
 prepared. 
 
 If steamed oatmeal be liked it can be cooked in the 
 morning. A cupful should be stirred into a quart of 
 boiling water, together with a good-sized teaspoon ful of 
 salt, and boiled gently for half an hour, being stirred 
 twice during the first ten minutes. 
 
 * Baked Oatmeal. 
 
 Opinions vary as to the manner in which oatmeal 
 should be cooked. In Scotland and Ireland, where oat- 
 meal is a staple article of diet, the method of cooking 
 what is there termed porridge, and what we call mush, 
 is generally the same. This is not the case in America. 
 In the old countries the meal always is sprinkled gradu- 
 ally into the boiling water ; the mush being stirred con- 
 stantly. Then it is cooked for an hour or more, being 
 placed where it will boil gently all the time, and being 
 stirred frequently. The people of Scotland and Ireland 
 keep smooth iron pots for the special purpose of cooking 
 oatmeal. These pots usually have feet, diminishing the 
 danger of burning. This kind of pot is in common 
 use in the South, where hominy is cooked in much 
 the same way that oatmeal is cooked in Scotland. 
 Hominy is as important in the South as oatmeal is in 
 Scotland. 
 
 By cooking oatmeal in the manner described, one ob- 
 tains a sweetness and richness not found in oatmeal that 
 has been cooked in a double-boiler. But the necessary 
 stirring breaks the grains, and the dish may be properly 
 
 37 
 
578 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 called mush. Now, if the grains be desired to remain 
 whole, there should be no stirring after the first ten 
 minutes' boiling. In baking oatmeal, you may get every 
 grain well cooked, but whole. 
 
 Put three pints of boiling water and half a table- 
 spoonful of salt into a stew-pan, and place the pan on 
 the fire. Gradually stir into the water one cupful of 
 coarse oatmeal. Let it boil for five minutes, stirring 
 frequently; then turn into a deep earthen bowl, and 
 cover with a plate. Set the bowl in a pan. Now pour 
 into the pan enough boiling water to come almost to the 
 top of the bowl. Place in a moderately hot oven, and 
 bake for two or three hours. Take the mush from the 
 oven at the end of that time, and let it cool in the bowl ; 
 then set it away in a cold place. In the morning put 
 the bowl again in a pan containing boiling water, and set 
 it in the oven for half an hour. On taking it from the 
 oven, slip a knife between the mush and the bowl and 
 turn the mush into a warm dish. 
 
 If this rule be followed carefully, the mush will be of 
 delicious flavor and each grain will be whole. When 
 one is fond of milk, half water and half milk may be 
 used at the start. This is an especially good way to 
 cook mush for children's dinner or supper. 
 
 * Wheat Germ Mush. 
 
 Wheat germ is a fine meal obtained from the heart of 
 the wheat. It makes an excellent mush. Into the inner 
 basin of a double-boiler pour a quart of boiling water ; and 
 after setting this basin on the stove, gradually sprinkle 
 into it one cupful of wheat germ. Stir the mixture con- 
 stantly until it boils up ; then add a teaspoonful of salt, 
 and set the small boiler into the larger one (in which, as 
 usual, there should be some water). Cook for twenty 
 minutes, having the water in the outer basin boil all the 
 time. Serve milk or cream with the mush. 
 
A GROUP OF SIMPLE DISHES. 579 
 
 This is a pleasant change from cracked wheat or oat- 
 meal. If any mush be left from breakfast, it may be 
 fried like hominy for breakfast the next day. 
 
 * Hominy. 
 
 This is one of the most excellent simple foods that we 
 have, and may be used in a variety of ways for breakfast 
 or supper. It unfortunately happens that people often 
 fail of buying the right kind or of cooking it properly, and 
 so do not know its value. Get the fine white hominy. 
 After washing a cupful in three waters, stir it into a 
 quart of boiling water ; add a teaspoonful of salt, and 
 boil gently for an hour, stirring frequently. This simple 
 work is all that is required for obtaining a very palatable 
 and nutritious dish. 
 
 Hominy may be eaten with milk, like oatmeal, or 
 served with beefsteak or any kind of roasted or broiled 
 meat. It must be washed clean and boiled well to in- 
 sure perfection. If any part of the dish remain after 
 the first serving, it may be used for griddle-cakes or 
 muffins, or even eaten cold. 
 
 * Fried Hominy. 
 
 Still another way to serve hominy is to pour it, while 
 hot, into a deep pan which has been dipped into cold 
 water ; allow it to cool, and then cut it into slices, which, 
 after they have been sprinkled lightly with flour, are to be 
 fried in a pan containing just enough pork fat to prevent 
 burning. It takes a long time to brown hominy in this 
 way ; and as the fat spatters considerably, the frying-pan 
 should be covered during the cooking. 
 
 * Hominy Snowflakes. 
 
 This is the name given to a new preparation for Break- 
 fast dishes. It is easily and quickly cooked, and affords 
 a pleasant change in the fare. Put a cupful of the snow- 
 
580 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 flakes into a saucepan, and pour over them a cupful and a 
 third of boiling water ; then add a scant teaspoonf ul of 
 salt, and simmer for five minutes. Serve the same as 
 oatmeal. 
 
 Or, mix a cupful of the snowflakes with one cupful 
 and a half of cold milk and one scant teaspoonful of 
 salt, and put the mixture into the inner kettle of a 
 double-boiler, the outer kettle containing boiling water. 
 Cook for ten minutes. A richer dish is obtained by this 
 mode of cooking. 
 
 * Granulated Yellow Meal Mush. 
 
 
 
 In place of oatmeal, hominy, or cracked wheat, this 
 dish will be found a pleasant one for breakfast. It is 
 made by putting half a pint of meal into a stew-pan, 
 and gradually pouring upon it three pints of boiling 
 water, adding a teaspoonful of salt, and beating well ; 
 and finally setting the mixture on the stove to boil 
 gently for an hour or more. Serve cream or milk with 
 the mush. 
 
 * Rye Mush. 
 
 Put one pint of boiling water into a stew-pan and on 
 the fire. Mix three gills of rye meal with three gills of 
 cold water. Stir this into the boiling water. Add one 
 teaspoonful of salt. Stir the mush well, and place it on 
 the back part of the stove, where it will cook slowly for 
 half an hour. Serve with milk. 
 
 * Graham Mush. 
 Graham mush is made exactly the same as rye mush. 
 
 * Rolled Wheat Mush. 
 
 Put a pint and a half of boiling water and a generous t 
 teaspoonful of salt into a stew-pan. Place on the fire, 
 and when the water boils rapidly, sprinkle in one cupful 
 
A GROUP OF SIMPLE DISHES. 581 
 
 of rolled wheat. Stir the mush well, and set back where 
 it will cook slowly for one hour. Serve with milk. 
 
 * Pearled Wheat Mush. 
 
 Wash one small cupful of pearled wheat in cold water. 
 Stir it into one generous quart of boiling water, and let 
 it boil rapidly for ten minutes. Add one teaspoonful 
 of salt. Cover the stew-pan, and place on the back of 
 the stove where the mush will simmer for three hours. 
 Serve with milk or cream. 
 
 This mush can be cooked one day and be heated in the 
 double-boiler for breakfast the next morning. 
 
 The Health Food Company sells a nice quality of 
 pearled wheat. 
 
 * Toast. 
 
 As a general thing, not enough care is taken in the 
 preparation of toast. Cut slices of stale bread about 
 one-third of an inch thick. Put them in the toaster and 
 hold them over the fire, but a little distance from it, 
 until they become slightly dried. It will take about two 
 minutes. Now hold the toaster near the fire, and brown 
 the bread quickly, being careful not to burn it, and yet 
 to let it acquire a rich brown color. The toast will be 
 delicate and crisp. 
 
 * Butter Toast. 
 
 This is made by dipping the edges of slices of toast in 
 . oiling water, and then spreading the slices with butter. 
 The toast should be served immediately. 
 - 
 
 * Cream Toast. 
 
 Heat three cupfuls of cream to the boiling-point ; then 
 add half a teaspoonful of salt. Put a slice of toast in a 
 deep warm dish, and pour a little of the cream on it; 
 then put another slice in the dish, and pour in more 
 
582 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 cream. Continue in this way until all the materials are 
 used. Three cupfuls of cream will be sufficient for seven 
 or eight slices of toast. Serve hot. 
 
 * Milk Toast. 
 
 Reserve half a cupful of milk from a quart, and put 
 the rest in a double-boiler, and on the fire. Mix the 
 cold milk and two table-spoonfuls of flour, and stir the 
 mixture into the milk when it begins to boil. Stir for 
 two minutes ; then put the cover on the boiler, and let 
 the milk cook for a quarter of an hour longer. 
 
 Now add two table-spoonfuls of butter and a teaspoon- 
 ful and a half of salt. Stir well, and dip the slices of 
 toast in the liquid ; then lay them in a deep dish, and 
 pour the remainder of the milk over them. There will 
 be enough milk for ten or twelve good-sized slices of 
 toast. If bakers' bread -be used, it will only be neces- 
 sary to dip it into the sauce and take it out immediately. 
 Home-made will not absorb the milk so quickly, and it 
 will be better to let the slices remain in the sauce for a 
 minute or more. 
 
 Graham, brown bread, and cracker toast are made in 
 the same way. Toast the bread as carefully for cream 
 or milk toast as you would if it were to be served 
 dry. 
 
 * Toasted Crackers. 
 
 After splitting six Boston butter crackers, soak them 
 in cold water until they begin to swell ; then remove 
 them from the water, and drain them on a plate. Butter 
 the bottom of a flat baking-pan very lightly. Spread 
 the crackers in this pan, crust side down, and put them 
 in a hot oven for ten minutes. In that time they should 
 turn a delicate brown. Remove them from the oven, 
 butter them lightly, place them on a warm dish, and 
 serve at once. 
 
A GROUP OF SIMPLE DISHES. 583 
 
 It makes the crackers richer, of course, to soak them 
 in milk instead of water. They are very nice served with 
 oyster soup, panned oysters, fricasseed oysters, oysters in 
 the shell, and oysters saute*. The crackers may be toasted 
 over the tire instead of in the oven. 
 
 * French Toast. 
 
 Cut from a loaf of baker's bread a dozen slices about 
 one-third of an inch thick. Beat together two eggs and 
 one-fourth of a teaspoonful of salt, and add a cupful and 
 a half of milk. Put a part of the mixture in a soup 
 plate, and dip a few slices of bread into it ; and continue 
 adding a little mixture and dipping the slices until all 
 the mixture has been used. Spread the bread on a 
 platter, and let it stand for half an hour. At the end 
 of that time rub the bars of a toaster lightly with butter, 
 and toast the bread brown on both sides. Send to the 
 table very hot. 
 
 * Toasted Pilot Bread. 
 
 Pilot bread is the large water cracker commonly used 
 on board ships. It is hard, but has a sweet, nutty flavor. 
 For six persons use eight or ten crackers. Put them in 
 a dish, and cover with cold water. Let them soak for a 
 quarter of an hour ; then remove them from the water, 
 and spread on a large platter. They should stand for at 
 least an hour or two. At supper-time butter the bars of 
 a toaster and toast the crackers a few at a time 
 until they turn a delicate brown. Spread lightly with 
 butter, and serve at once. 
 
 Instead of using a toaster, the crackers may be put in 
 a large baking-pan and set in a hot oven for ten minutes ; 
 then buttered and served. These toasted crackers are 
 especially good with broiled salt fish. 
 
584 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 PIES. 
 
 Puff Paste. 
 
 NEARLY all cooks and housekeepers lind it a difficult 
 thing to learn to make putt' paste. Not that the work 
 is complicated, but because there must be great delicacy 
 and rapidity of touch. In the hundreds of rules given 
 in the cook-books of all countries, the principles are the 
 same, a pound of butter to a pound of flour, with varia- 
 tions in the way of lemon juice, sugar, or egg given in 
 one, and omitted in another. 
 
 In making puff paste the object is to get as many dis- 
 tinct layers as possible. Each layer should be as thin 
 as a sheet of note-paper. To insure this result, all the 
 materials and utensils used must be very cold, and the 
 work should be done in a cool room. The butter should 
 be of good quality, and the flour, when possible, be made 
 by the old process, or what is called "half-high mill- 
 ing." This flour is used a good deal at the West and 
 Southwest. Flour made by the new, or high-milling, 
 process is too granular to make perfect puff paste. 
 Many cooks, however, say that they can make puff paste 
 quite as good with the new as with the old-process flour. 
 The writer's experience leads her strongly to recommend 
 using only the pastry flour or the "half-high milling." 
 
 In making puff paste the flour, water, and salt may 
 be mixed to a dough, and then the butter be rolled with 
 it. Made in this way the flakes are larger and more 
 distinct; but the pastry is not quite so tender as it 
 would be if a small part of the butter were mixed with 
 the salt and flour before the water was added. 
 
PIES. 586 
 
 If the paste cart be chilled three times while it is being 
 made, it will be lighter, and the flakes will be larger. 
 The colder and smoother the board on which the paste 
 is made, the better the paste will be. A smooth wooden 
 board answers all purposes, but, if convenient, a marble 
 or a slate slab is preferable because colder. Marble is 
 expensive and heavy, but a slate slab is light and inex- 
 pensive ; one measuring 18 x 20 inches, costing about 
 $1.50, may be used. 
 
 In summer there must be ice and a refrigerator; in 
 winter snow may be substituted for the ice, and the 
 chilling may be done in a cold room or out of doors. 
 
 Here is a method of making puff paste which is slow, 
 but the beginner may be almost sure of success ; and when 
 one has become expert in handling the paste, there need 
 be no intervals between the several times of rolling it. 
 
 For a large vol-au-vent, or twelve small patties, or 
 four medium-sized pies, use one quart of sifted flour, 
 two cupfuls of butter, packed solid, one table-spoonfui 
 of sugar, one level table-spoonful of salt, and about a 
 cupful and a quarter of ice-water. 
 
 Work the butter in a pan of cold water until it is 
 light and waxy ; then pat it between the hands to remove 
 all the water. Divide it into four thin cakes ; spread 
 them on a towel, and lay them on the ice in the refrig- 
 erator. 
 
 Put the flour, salt, and sugar into a bowl. On a firm 
 table put the pastry-board, rolling-pin, a case-knife, a 
 plate with a little flour for dredging, a soft towel, a 
 dripping-pan, and two shallow cake-pans. The three 
 pans must be water-tight. Put about four pounds of ice 
 into the canvas bag, and pound it until it is almost as 
 fine as snow; half fill one of the cake-pans with this, 
 and put the remainder into the dripping-pan. Set the 
 cake-pan filled with ice into the empty pan ; place these 
 in the dripping-pan, and put them in the refrigerator or 
 in a cold room. This is for chilling the paste quickly. 
 
586 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Now break one of the cakes of butter and rub it 
 quickly into the flour, always keeping plenty of flour 
 between the hands and the bits of butter. Add the ice- 
 water, a little at a time, stirring with the knife. 
 
 When a smooth ball of paste is formed, sprinkle the 
 board lightly with flour, and turn the paste on it. Beat 
 it lightly with the rolling-pin, lifting it and tossing it 
 back on to the board, after two or three strokes of the 
 pin ; then roll the paste down until about half an inch 
 thick, keeping it as near the shape of a square as 
 possible. 
 
 Take one of the cakes of butter from the refrigerator, 
 and cut it into bits ; spread these over the paste, and 
 sprinkle lightly with flour. Fold the paste one-fourth 
 from each side so that the edges meet ; then fold 
 from the ends, but do not have these meet. Now double 
 the paste, pound lightly, and roll down to about one- 
 third of an inch in thickness. Eold as before, and roll 
 again. Now spread another cake of the butter as before ; 
 sprinkle with flour, and fold. Eoll down to about an 
 inch in thickness ; place the paste in a thin napkin ; and 
 lay this in the empty cake-pan, which has been kept 
 between the two pans of ice. Let the paste chill for 
 twenty minutes. At the end of that time roll it down 
 to the thickness of one-fourth of an inch ; fold it as de- 
 scribed before, and roll it once more. Now add the last 
 of the butter, and roll and chill as before. When it has 
 been chilled for twenty minutes, take it to the board 
 again and roll it down twice, each time having it about 
 one-third of an inch, or less, in thickness. After the 
 second rolling fold it in the middle and then double it. 
 Roll it gently until it is about the size of the pan in 
 which it cooled, being careful to have it equally thick in 
 every part. Place it in the pan, and let it chill for one 
 hour or more. It is now ready for use. 
 
 A word of caution, use as little flour as possible 
 in rolling the paste. Let each stroke of the rolling-pin 
 
PIES. 587 
 
 be light and even. Be sure that the last chilling is 
 thorough. 
 
 Chopped Puff Paste. 
 
 This paste is made quickly, and is very satisfactory, 
 although not so delicate or light as genuine puff paste. 
 Into a chopping-tray put one quart of sifted flour, one 
 table-spoonful of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, and two 
 cupfuls of unwashed butter. 
 
 Beat two eggs very light, and add to them half a 
 cupful of ice- water and one table- spoonful of lemon 
 juice. Chop the butter and flour together until the but- 
 ter is reduced to lumps about the size of a pea. Then 
 gradually add the mixture of egg, lemon juice, and water, 
 chopping all the while. When all the mixture has been 
 used, sprinkle the moulding-board with flour, and turn 
 the paste on to it. Roll and fold the same as for puff 
 paste. Do this three or four times. Chill and use the 
 same as puff paste. This paste may be used without 
 chilling, but it will not be so light and delicate as if 
 thoroughly chilled. 
 
 * Plain Paste for Pies. 
 
 For eight pies of medium size use two quarts of sifted 
 flour, one cupful of lard, one of butter, one table-spoonful 
 of salt, two of sugar, and about a cupful and a half of 
 cold water. 
 
 Eeserve half a cupful of the flour, and put the re- 
 mainder into a chopping-tray with the salt, sugar, lard, 
 and butter. Chop until all these ingredients are thor- 
 oughly blended ; then add the water, a little at a time, 
 chopping all the while. When the water gets well mixed 
 with the other ingredients there should be a stiff paste. 
 Sprinkle the moulding-board with some of the reserved 
 flour, and, putting the paste upon it, roll down to the 
 thickness of about a quarter of an inch. Fold the paste 
 and roll it down again ; and repeat the operation three 
 
588 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 times. Put the paste on ice, that it may get chilled. 
 If one prefer to omit the lard, an extra cupful and a half 
 of butter may be substituted. Lard makes the paste 
 richer and tenderer, but butter gives a better flavor. 
 The smaller the quantity of flour used on the moulding- 
 board, the nicer will be the paste. 
 
 Unfortunately some housekeepers make pies every 
 week in the year, and they and their families would feel 
 lost if a day passed without the usual quantity of pie. 
 Wiser housekeepers have pies only occasionally, and 
 when the fruits and vegetables of which they are made 
 are at their best. 
 
 * Apple Pie. 
 
 For two large pies use enough apples to make three 
 quarts when pared, cored, and cut into eighths, two tea- 
 cupfuls of sugar, about one-third of a grated nutmeg, two 
 table-spoonfuls of flour, and eight of water ; and for the 
 crust use three cupfuls of flour, one of butter, two table- 
 spoonfuls of lard, one heaping teaspoonful of salt, one of 
 sugar, and a scant half-cupful of cold water. 
 
 Follow the directions previously given for plain paste, 
 using the quantities of ingredients given here. Now 
 prepare the apples. Butter two deep plates, and line 
 them with a thin layer of paste. Cover the bottom of 
 the plates with apples, being careful to place them so 
 that the sharp edges shall not cut through- the paste. 
 Fill the plates with the remainder of the apples. 
 
 Mix the two cupfuls of sugar, two table-spoonfuls of 
 flour, and the nutmeg, and sprinkle half of this mixture 
 over each plate of apples ; then sprinkle half of the half- 
 cupful of water over the fruit. 
 
 Roll a piece of the paste to a size a little larger than 
 the pie plates. Make a small slit in the centre of this 
 paste/ Cover one pie with this. With a knife lift the 
 edge of the under crust, and tuck in the edge of the top 
 
PIES. 589 
 
 crust. When all the edge has been secured in this man- 
 ner, press the two edges together gently. 
 
 Cover the second pie in the same way, and bake in a 
 moderate oven for fifty minutes. 
 
 * Apple Tart. 
 
 Make a plain paste, as for apple pie. Heap* pared, 
 cored, and quartered apples in two oval vegetable-dishes 
 that have flat rims. Each dish should hold about two 
 quarts. Over each grate one-fourth of a nutmeg and half 
 the thin yellow rind of a lemon. Sprinkle into each 
 dish a generous cupful of sugar and one-third of a cupful 
 of water. Cover with paste about half an inch thick, 
 " fulling " it over the apples a little. The flat edge of 
 the dish must be covered with the paste. Prick the 
 paste in several places with a fork. Bake in a moderate 
 oven for three-quarters of an hour. Serve cream and 
 sugar with this tart. 
 
 This is by far the most desirable manner of baking 
 paste and fruit together, as there is no under crust to 
 become soggy with the juices of the fruit. 
 
 Swiss Apple Tartlet. 
 
 For a tartlet about the size of a large breakfast-plate 
 use three pints of apples, one cupful and a quarter of 
 sugar, the same quantity of water, about a quarter of a 
 grated nutmeg, and plain or rich paste to line the plate, 
 (one cupful of flour, with the other ingredients for the 
 paste, will be sufficient for one tartlet). 
 
 Pare, quarter, and core the apples. Put a cupful of 
 sugar and a cupful of water in a small stew-pan, and boil 
 for eight minutes ; then add a pint of the quartered 
 apples, and cook gently until tender perhaps for ten 
 minutes. Take the pieces from the syrup, and place 
 them on a large plate to cool. Now put another pint of 
 the apples into the syrup, and cook and cool as before. 
 
590 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 When the second pint has been removed from the syrup, 
 cook the third one, with the cover on the stew-pan, until 
 the apples are so soft that the fruit will mash readily. 
 Take from the fire, and put away to cool. 
 
 Now prepare the paste for the tartlet. Butter the 
 plate, and roll out a piece of paste large enough to cover 
 it. Then roll out another piece, one-third of an inch 
 thick, and large enough to go around the plate when cut 
 into strips an inch wide. Wet the edge of the paste 
 that is on the plate, and lay the strips upon it. Grate 
 half the nutmeg and half the lemon rind upon the whole 
 quarters of apples, and half upon the mashed apples. 
 Put the latter in the bottom of the pie-plate, and 
 arrange the whole quarters on top of it, putting them 
 close together, and being careful to have the rounded 
 sides up. Put the tartlet into a rather hot oven, and 
 bake it for three-quarters of an hour. When it has been 
 baking for half an hour, put the remaining sugar and 
 water on to boil for fifteen minutes. When the tartlet 
 is taken from the oven, pour over the apples, by means 
 of a spoon, the hot syrup made by boiling the water and 
 sugar together ; then return to the oven, and cook five 
 minutes longer. On removing the tartlet from the oven 
 slip it on to a cold plate, and put it away to cool. 
 
 This is a very attractive dish, and not much more 
 work is required to make it than to make an apple pie. 
 Each piece of apple in the tartlet should be whole and 
 of a bright rich color. Lemon or cinnamon may be sub- 
 stituted for nutmeg. 
 
 * Gooseberry Tart. 
 
 For six persons use one quart of gooseberries, one cup- 
 ful of sugar, a slight grating of nutmeg, one cupful and 
 a half of flour, one-third of a cupful of butter, one tea- 
 spoonful of baking-powder, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
 and about one-third of a cupful of cold water. 
 
 Mix the baking-powder, salt, and butter lightly with 
 
PIES. 691 
 
 the flour. Add the water gradually, stirring with a 
 knife. When a smooth paste is formed, turn it on to a 
 board that has been sprinkled lightly with flour. Koll 
 the paste down to a thin sheet about one-fourth of an 
 inch thick. Fold it up and roll down again ; then put in 
 a cool place until the fruit is ready. If possible, put it 
 on ice. 
 
 Free the berries of stems and blossoms ; then wash 
 them and put into an oval vegetable-dish, heaping them 
 in the centre. Grate the nutmeg, and sprinkle the 
 sugar over the fruit. 
 
 Now roll the paste into the shape of the top of the dish, 
 but somewhat larger, to allow for turning the edges in a 
 little. Cut a small slit in the centre of the paste, and 
 lift it from the board to the dish, being careful to put it 
 on evenly. Turn the edges in a little, and press them 
 against the sides of the dish. Bake in a moderately hot 
 oven for an hour; then set away to cool. At serving- 
 time sprinkle the top of the tart with sugar. 
 
 This is delicious without any sauce, but English 
 people usually serve cream or soft custard with it. Cur- 
 rant tarts are made in the same manner. 
 
 * Rhubarb Pie. 
 
 Put into a chopping-bowl a cupful of sifted flour, a 
 teaspoonful of sugar, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of salt, 
 and four table-spoonfuls of butter, and chop until the 
 ingredients get well mixed ; then add a little more than 
 one-eighth of a cupful of cold water, and continue the 
 chopping until a smooth paste is formed. Put away in 
 a cold place until needed later. 
 
 Mix a cupful of sugar and a teaspoonful of flour, and 
 afterward add a well-beaten egg and a heaping cupful 
 of chopped rhubarb. Now take a part of the paste 
 which was put away, and roll it rather thin. Use it for 
 lining a deep pie-plate, and turn the rhubarb mixture 
 
592 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 into the plate. Boll the remainder of the paste thin, 
 and cover the plate with it, pressing together the edges 
 of the paste, that is, of the covering and lining. Bake 
 in a rather quick oven for forty minutes, reducing the 
 heat after the first ten. 
 
 How to Line Plates for Pies. 
 
 These directions apply only to squash, pumpkin, and 
 custard pies. 
 
 Butter a deep pie-plate. Roll the pastry a little 
 larger than the plate and about one-eighth of an inch 
 thick. Cover the plate with this paste, being careful 
 not to shut in air between the paste and the plate. It 
 is a good plan to lift one side of the paste and lower it 
 slowly, passing the left hand over it from the centre to 
 the edge as it touches the plate. This will force out any 
 air that may have lodged under the paste. Treat both 
 sides in this manner. The paste should hang about half 
 an inch over the edge of the plate. Koll it up until it 
 rests on the edge of the plate, the rolled part being 
 underneath. There will then be a thick edge all round 
 the plate. Pinch this with the thumb and forefinger 
 until a thin scalloped wall is formed. It is always 
 necessary to build a barrier like this, because plates are 
 not made deep enough for squash, pumpkin, or custard 
 pies. 
 
 It is a singular fact that many housekeepers do not 
 know the difference between a pumpkin and squash, and 
 cook both in the same manner. The squash can be pre- 
 pared in many ways ; the pumpkin is desirable only in 
 pies. The squash can be boiled or steamed in half an 
 hour ; the pumpkin must be cooked for six hours. 
 
 * Squash Pie. 
 
 The materials needed for two large pies are five cup- 
 fulg of stewed and strained squash, five cupfuls of milk, 
 
PIES. 598 
 
 one table-spoonful of butter, one heaping cupful of sugar, 
 two teaspoonfuls of salt, the grated rind of a lemon, a 
 piece of stick cinnamon about five inches long, four eggs, 
 and about one-third of a nutmeg, grated. 
 
 Put the milk into the double-boiler with the stick cinna- 
 mon, broken into small pieces, and the lemon rind. Let 
 it cook for half an hour. Add the butter, and then 
 strain the liquor on the squash* Stir constantly while 
 adding the milk. Now add the sugar, salt, and nv.tineg, 
 and set away to cool. 
 
 Beat the eggs well, and add them to the squash mix- 
 ture. Fill the plates, and bake in a moderate oven for 
 three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 * Pumpkin Pie. 
 
 Cut a pumpkin into long strips. Remove the soft pulp 
 and the seeds. Pare the strips, and cut them into small 
 pieces. Wash and measure these pieces, and put them 
 into a stew-pan containing one-fourth as much boiling 
 water as there is pumpkin. Cover, and place on the fire. 
 When it has boiled for ten minutes, set back where it 
 will simmer for six hours. When it has cooked for four 
 hours add one cupful of molasses for every six quarts 
 of the vegetable. Stir frequently, to prevent burning. 
 When done, rub through a sieve, and measure. For two 
 large pies use five cupfuls of the strained pumpkin, one 
 quart of boiling milk, one small cupful of sugar, two 
 teaspoonfuls of salt, one table-spoonful of cinnamon, four 
 eggs, and one-fourth of a nutmeg, grated. 
 
 Mix the salt and spice with the pumpkin. Add the 
 boiling milk, a little at a time, stirring all the while. 
 Add the sugar, and set away to cool. When cold, add 
 the eggs, well beaten. 
 
 Line two deep plates with plain paste. Pour the mix- 
 ture into them, and bake in a moderate oven for three- 
 quarters of an hour 
 
594 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 It is always best to cook the pumpkin the day before 
 the pies are to be made. 
 
 Orange Pie. 
 
 For a plate that holds a pint, use the rind of one large 
 orange, and the juice of two large or three small ones, a 
 cupful of water, a cupful of sugar, two level table-spoon- 
 fuls of corn-starch, one of powdered sugar, one-eighth of 
 a teaspoonful of salt, and two eggs. 
 
 Use four table-spoonfuls of water to mix with the corn- 
 starch, and put the remainder on the stove in a stew-pan. 
 When it boils, stir the mixed corn-starch into it, and 
 cook for three minutes, stirring all the while. Take 
 from the fire at the end of that time, and add the salt, 
 orange rind and juice, and the cupful of sugar. Set away 
 to cool ; and when it becomes cold, add the white of one 
 egg, and the yolks of two, all well beaten. 
 
 Put two heaping table-spoonfuls of flour into a bowl, 
 and rub into it one heaping table-spoonful of butter, and 
 a quantity of salt about as large as a pea. Add enough 
 cold water perhaps a level table-spoonful to make 
 a stiff dough. Sprinkle a moulding-board with flour, and 
 roll the paste very thin. Line the buttered plate with 
 this dough, and pour the orange mixture into the plate. 
 Bake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes. At the 
 end of that time beat the reserved white of an egg to a 
 stiff, dry froth, and then beat into it the table-spoonful 
 of powdered sugar. Spread this mixture over the pie, 
 and cook for ten minutes, with the oven door open. 
 Close the door for two minutes (making twelve minutes' 
 cooking of the me'ringue in all) to give a good color to 
 the froth. Set the pie away to cool before serving. 
 
 Lemon Cream Pie. 
 
 To make the filling for this pie there must be taken 
 the juice of three lemons and the rind of one, a teaspoon- 
 
PIES. 595 
 
 ful of butter, a table-spoonful and a half of corn-starch, 
 a large cupful of water, a cupful of granulated sugar, four 
 table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and four eggs ; and the 
 crust will require three large table-spoonfuls of flour, one 
 large table-spoonful of butter, and some water. 
 
 Make the crust by rubbing the butter into the flour, 
 adding cold water enough to make a smooth, stiff paste, 
 and then rolling very thin. 
 
 Mix the corn-starch with four table-spoonfuls of the 
 cupful of water. Put the remainder of the water into a 
 saucepan, with the lemon rind and juice and the granu- 
 lated sugar, and heat to the boiling-point ; then stir the 
 corn-starch into the boiling mixture, and cook for two 
 minutes. Stir the butter into the mixture, and set away 
 to cool. When cool, add the yolks of the four eggs, well 
 beaten. Pour the mixture into a large deep plate that 
 has been lined with paste, and bake in a moderate oven 
 for thirty-five minutes. During the last quarter of an 
 hour make a meringue by beating the whites of the eggs 
 to a stiff, dry froth, and gradually beating the powdered 
 eggs into this froth. At the end of the thirty-five 
 minutes cover the pie ivith the meringue, and bake, with 
 the oven door open, for ten minutes longer. 
 
 By following this rule, one gets a very large deep pie. 
 The materials named are sufficient for making two small 
 and rather thin pies. 
 
 At serving- time the dish should be as cold as possible. 
 
 Orange Cream Pie. 
 
 For the cake use a scant half-cupful of butter, two 
 cupfuls of sugar, three cupfuls and a quarter of flour, one 
 of milk, three teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, and three 
 eggs. 
 
 Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually beat into it 
 the sugar. Beat the eggs light, and then beat them into 
 the sugar and butter; add the milk, and then the flour 
 
596 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 and baking-powder, mixed. Spread the mixture in six 
 well-buttered Washington-pie tins, these shallow plates 
 are also called "jelly-cake tins." Bake in a moderate 
 oven for about eighteen minutes. These six cakes will 
 make three pies. The cake is very tender, and must be 
 handled with care when it is taken from the pans. Let the 
 cakes cool, and then fill them with the cream filling. 
 
 Cream for Filling. The materials are : four medium- 
 sized oranges, one lemon, two cupfuls and a half of wa- 
 ter, one cupful of powdered sugar, the yolks of three 
 eggs, three table-spoonfuls of corn-starch, and one table- 
 spoonful of butter. 
 
 Into a saucepan put two cupfuls of water and the 
 grated yellow rind of two of the oranges, and place on 
 the fire. Mix the corn-starch with half a cupful of cold 
 water, and stir into the boiling water. Simmer for ten 
 minutes. Beat the sugar and yolks of eggs together, 
 and stir into the boiling mixture. Cook for two minutes 
 longer, stirring all the while. Take from the fire, and 
 add the butter and orange and lemon juice ; beat well, 
 and set away to cool. When the mixture is cold, spread 
 it on three of the round cakes, and cover with the other 
 three cakes. These pies may be frosted and decorated 
 with sections of oranges, or they may be served plain. 
 
 * Cream Pie. 
 
 Beat three eggs very light with the Dover-beater ; add 
 to them one cupful and a half of powdered sugar, and 
 beat with a spoon until the entire mixture is creamy. 
 Add one table-spoonful of lemon juice, and beat three 
 minutes longer. 
 
 Put two cupfuls of sifted flour into the sieve; mix 
 with it two level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder; add 
 one gill of cold water to the beaten egg and sugar ; then 
 sift in the flour and baking-powder, and beat well. Pour 
 a little more than half of this mixture- into two buttered 
 
PIES. 597 
 
 deep tin plates. Pour the remainder into a small cake- 
 pan. Bake the part in the plates for twenty minutes, 
 and that in the pan for twenty-five. The two round 
 plates are for the pies, and the sheet of cake may be 
 used in the basket. It improves if kept a day or two. 
 
 Split the round cakes, and fill with the prepared 
 cream. 
 
 To Make the Cream. Put three gills of milk into the 
 double-boiler, and place on the fire. Beat together in a 
 bowl three table-spoonfuls of flour, two-thirds of a cupful 
 of sugar, one large egg, and half a salt-spoonful of salt. 
 When this is light and smooth, stir it into the boiling 
 milk. Beat well for two minutes ; cover the boiler, and 
 cook the cream for fifteen minutes, stirring frequently. 
 Season with half a teaspoonful of vanilla or lemon ex- 
 tract. Cool and use. 
 
 This cream is more delicate if one table-spoonful of 
 flour be omitted and two eggs be used. 
 
 Chocolate Cream Pie. 
 
 This is made in three parts, first the cake, then the 
 cream, and finally the icing. 
 
 To Make the Cake. Beat half a cupful of butter to a 
 cream, and gradually beat into it one cupful of powdered 
 sugar. Beat two eggs till light, and then beat them into 
 the sugar and butter. Add half a cupful of milk and 
 two level cupfuls of sifted flour, with which has been 
 mixed a teaspoonful and a half of baking-powder. Beat 
 this mixture quickly and vigorously, and pour into four 
 deep tin plates that have been well buttered. Spread 
 the batter evenly in the plates, and bake in a moderate 
 oven for a quarter of an hour. Carefully remove the 
 cakes from the tins, and put them on earthen plates. 
 
 To Make the Cream. Beat together the yolks of two 
 eggs, one table-spoonful of flour, and two table-spoonfuls 
 of sugar. Put a cupful of milk into a double-boiler, and 
 
598 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 when it boils, add the beaten mixture and half a salt- 
 spoonful of salt. Stir constantly until the mixture be- 
 comes smooth; then cover, and cook for fifteen minutes, 
 stirring frequently. On taking from the fire add half a 
 teaspoonful of vanilla extract. 
 
 To Make Chocolate Icing. Mix six table-spoonfuls of 
 grated chocolate and half a cupful of powdered sugar. 
 Beat to a stiff, dry froth the whites of those two eggs 
 whose yolks were used in making the cream, and grad- 
 ually beat into them a cupful of powdered sugar and 
 a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Put the mixture of 
 chocolate and sugar into a small frying-pan, and add two 
 table-spoonfuls of water. Stir over a hot fire until 
 smooth and glossy. Beat this cooked mixture into the 
 mixture of egg whites and sugar. 
 
 Spread two of the cakes with the cooked cream, and 
 spread a thin layer of chocolate icing over the cream. 
 Place the other two cakes on top of the first two, and 
 spread the remainder of the icing over them. Let the 
 pies stand for at least two hours before serving. 
 
 * Washington Pie. 
 
 For two pies make the cake the same as for orange 
 cream pies. When the cakes are cold, place one on a 
 plate, spread a thin layer of raspberry or strawberry jam 
 on it ; put a second cake on top of this, and spread jam 
 on it ; place a third cake on the other two, and sprinkle 
 with powdered sugar. Treat the other three cakes in 
 the same manner. Any cup cake, plain or rich, may be 
 used for Washington pies ; and any fruit jam may be 
 substituted for strawberry or raspberry. 
 
 Potato Pie. 
 
 The materials area generous pint .of mashed potato, 
 two table-spoonfuls of butter, one pint of cream, a gill of 
 
PIES. 599 
 
 port, one gill of sugar, four eggs, about one-fourth of a 
 grated nutmeg, and a scant half-teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Rub the mashed potato through a sieve ; add the sugar 
 to it, and then the cream, stirring it in gradually. Next 
 add the butter, melted. Stir in the yolks of the eggs, 
 well beaten, the salt and nutmeg, and then the wine, a 
 little at a time. Last of all, add the whites of the eggs, 
 beaten to a stiff froth. Have two small deep plates 
 lined with puff paste. Pour this preparation into them, 
 and bake half an hour in a moderate oven. 
 
 
 
 Cream Cheese Tart. 
 
 Use one cupful of cottage cheese, half a cupful of 
 sweet cream, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a cupful 
 of blanched and chopped almonds, one cupful of cur- 
 rants, and four eggs. 
 
 Butter a deep plate, and line it with a very thin sheet 
 of dough made in the manner described for making lun- 
 cheon rolls in the chapter on " Bread." Beat the cream 
 into the cheese. Beat the sugar and yolks of eggs to- 
 gether, and add the cheese and cream. Beat this mixture 
 for two minutes, and then add the almonds and currants. 
 Last of all add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff 
 froth. Pour into the plate, and bake in a moderate 
 oven for half an hour. 
 
 Chantilly Tarts. 
 
 These dainty bits of pastry are made of two cupfuls of 
 flour, one of butter, a scant half-cupful of water, about 
 half a cupful of strawberry preserve, a pint of whipped 
 cream, a teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of sugar, and 
 the white of an egg. 
 
 Put the flour, butter, sugar, and salt into a chopping- 
 bowl, and chop until the butter is thoroughly mixed with 
 the flour j then add the water, and continue chopping 
 until smooth dough is formed. Sprinkle a moulding- 
 
600 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 board very lightly with flour, and, placing the dough 
 upon it, pound with a rolling-pin, and roll till thin. 
 Fold the paste, and pound and roll again ; and after 
 doing the same operation a third time, set the paste on 
 ice. When it has become thoroughly chilled, roll it 
 down to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and cut it 
 into circular pieces with a large pattie-cutter or biscuit- 
 cutter. With a smaller tin, cut the centres out of these 
 pieces. Gather up the scraps of paste, and roll very thin, 
 and cut out with the large cutter as many pieces as there 
 are rings of paste. Moisten these pieces with the beaten 
 white of an egg, and place the rings upon them. Bake 
 in a quick oven for twenty minutes, and on removing 
 from the oven, fill with strawberry preserve. At serving- 
 time cover the tarts with whipped cream. 
 
 Mince-meat. 
 
 Take three pounds of beef from the tenderest part ot 
 the round, half a pound of chopped suet, three quarts of 
 pared and chopped apples, three cupfuls of stoned raisins, 
 two cupfuls of dried currants, a quarter of a pound of 
 citron, a cupful of molasses, three of sugar, one table- 
 spoonful of ground mace, four of cinnamon, one of 
 allspice, half a table-spoonful of cloves, three grated 
 nutmegs, two lemons, three table-spoonfuls of salt, five 
 cupfuls of cider, one pint of wine, and a pint of brandy. 
 
 Free the beef of fat and skin, and chop it very fine. 
 Chop the apples rather coarse ; they should be fine- 
 flavored and tart. Put all the ingredients, except the 
 cider, wine, brandy, and lemons, into a large bowl. Grate 
 the yellow rind of the lemons, and squeeze the juice of 
 the fruit upon the mixture. Mix all thoroughly, and 
 then add the cider. Put the mince-meat into a porcelain 
 kettle, and heat very slowly to the boiling-point; then 
 remove from the fire, and add the wine and brandy. Put 
 into stone jars, and keep until needed. It is well to try 
 
PIES. 601 
 
 the mince-meat by putting a spoonful of it in a small 
 piece of paste and baking it, for the flavor is developed 
 in baking. Tastes differ in regard to seasoning ; and 
 while some persons may not think the quantities in this 
 receipt are sufficient, others may think that the flavor is 
 even too strong. If there be objection to brandy or 
 wine, use, instead, an extra pint and a half of cider. 
 
 Mince-meat improves with keeping. It should be 
 made at least a fortnight before it is baked in pies, 
 and the pies should be baked for an hour. 
 
 * Plain Mince-meat. 
 
 Cover four pounds of a round of beef with boiling 
 water, and let it simmer for five hours ; then let it coo' 
 in the water, and when it is cold, free it of fat and chop 
 quite fine, but not to a powder. There should be a gen- 
 erous quart of the chopped meat. Add to it three quarts 
 of pared and chopped apples, a pint of fine-chopped suet, 
 a quart of stoned and chopped raisins, a quart of English 
 currants, a quart of molasses, three pints of sugar, half 
 a cupful of ground cinnamon, a table-spoonful of cloves, 
 two of allspice, two of mace, six grated nutmegs, half a 
 cupful of salt, and some citron, if you choose. 
 
 Mix these ingredients thoroughly with the hands, and 
 then add three quarts of good cider. Let the mince- 
 meat stand over night, and in the morning, after heating 
 it slowly to the boiling-point, and simmering for one 
 hour, turn it into stone jars and set it in a cool, dry 
 place. 
 
 If you like you may add wine or brandy when you put 
 the mince-meat away or when making the pies, but it is 
 nice without either. It is an improvement, however, to 
 put a quart of stoned raisins into the mixture at the 
 time it is scalded. 
 
 This mince-meat will keep for three months in ordi- 
 nary stone jars, even if there be no brandy or wine. The 
 
602 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 crust for the pies should be either puff paste or rich 
 chopped paste. The upper crust should be very thick, 
 and the pies should bake for an hour. Mince pies are 
 always better if baked several days before they are 
 served. 
 
 * Cheap Mince-meat. 
 
 The materials are : one cupful of chopped cooked meat, 
 two of chopped apple, a half-cupful of chopped raisins, 
 half a cupful of currants, one cupful of cider, half a cup- 
 ful of molasses, one cupful of the water in which the 
 meat was boiled, two teaspoonf uls of salt, one of cinna- 
 mon, one of allspice, a half-teaspoonful of clove, and a 
 half-teaspoonful of nutmeg. The cider may be omitted 
 and the juice and rind of a lemon used instead. Mix 
 all together, and then heat to the boiling-point. 
 
PUDDINGS. 603 
 
 PUDDINGS. 
 
 MANY housekeepers look upon all dessert in the light 
 of luxuries ; others draw the line at dishes that call for 
 eggs. Now, some dessert dish, if properly made, should 
 form a part of every dinner, if no fruit be served. Even 
 with fruit, some people require sugar. When no dessert 
 is provided, a greater quantity of meat and vegetables 
 must be eaten to satisfy the demands of nature. For 
 some this is all right, but for the majority of people a 
 certain amount of sugar and starch is necessary. Chil- 
 dren should not be deprived of this kind of food. Even 
 for the poor it is economical to provide a simple dessert. 
 
 In arranging for a dinner, plan a light dessert when 
 the rest of the meal is to be substantial. On the other 
 hand, when the main part of ^he dinner is to be light, 
 let the dessert be hot and substantial. For example, if 
 the first part of the meal consists of cold meat and vege- 
 tables, or a hash and one vegetable, serve a hot apple 
 pudding for dessert. A good one can be made of a pint 
 of flour, prepared as for cream-of-tartar biscuit, rolled thin, 
 and filled with pared and quartered apples, then steamed 
 for two hours, and served with molasses or sugar sauce. 
 Or the apples may be put into a stew-pan with a little 
 water and sugar or a little molasses, stewed for a few 
 minutes, covered with the biscuit dough, and cooked for 
 about twenty minutes longer. No sauce will be needed 
 with this pudding. Nothing could be cheaper, and it will 
 be very palatable and wholesome. 
 
 Apples may be added to boiled sago or tapioca with a 
 pleasing result. Soak a cupful of either tapioca or sago 
 
604 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 in three cupfuls of cold water over night ; then cook it 
 in a double-boiler for half an hour. Add to the contents 
 of the boiler one cupful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of 
 salt, and two quarts of pared and quartered apples. 
 Bake in a pudding-dish for an hour and a quarter. Cool 
 slightly, and serve with or without sugar and cream or 
 milk. These puddings are so simple that they will not 
 hurt even an invalid. 
 
 The simple dishes that can be made of apples are 
 numerous ; and as the fruit is so cheap and healthful, it 
 should be used freely through the fall and winter. 
 
 Puddings made of milk and rice, tapioca, sago, corn- 
 starch, etc., are healthful, and cheap, and, to most tastes, 
 appetizing, when properly cooked. The trouble with 
 almost all simple dishes is that the cook thinks that they 
 are not worth careful treatment ; but refined taste shows 
 itself in the simplest operation of cooking as well as in 
 the making of elaborate dishes. 
 
 HOT PUDDINGS 
 
 m erf.1 l 
 
 ~* ~~ bfls 
 
 * Hot Farina Pudding. 
 
 Use one quart of milk, four heaping table-spoonfuls of 
 farina, and one teaspoonful of salt. Put all the milk 
 but half a cupful on to boil. When it boils, add the 
 farina and salt, mixed with the cold milk. Cook for one 
 hour, stirring frequently, and serve with sugar and 
 milk. 
 
 * Corn-starch Pudding. 
 
 The materials needed are : one quart of milk, five 
 table-spoonfuls of corn-starch, the yolks of three eggs, 
 and one teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Reserve a cupful of the milk, and put the remainder 
 on the stove in a double-boiler. Mix the cold milk, 
 yolks, corn-starch, and salt, and stir into the boiling milk. 
 
PUDDINGS. 605 
 
 Cook for ten minutes, stirring frequently. Pour into a 
 pudding-dish, and serve with strawberry sauce. 
 
 * Keserve half a cupful of milk from a quart, and put 
 the remainder into a double-boiler on the stove. Mix 
 four large table-spoonfuls of corn-starch and a teaspoouf ul 
 of salt with the half -cupful of milk ; stir into the boiling 
 milk, and beat well for two minutes. Cover the boiler, 
 and let the pudding cook for twelve minutes ; then pour 
 it into a pudding-dish, and set it in a cool place for half 
 an hour. 
 
 At serving-time make the sauce in this way : Beat the 
 whites of two eggs to a stiff, dry froth, and beat into 
 this two table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar ; as soon as 
 the sugar is mixed with the whites, add half a large 
 tumbler of currant or any other bright jelly ; or any kind 
 of preserved fruit may be used. 
 
 Sugar and cream are good and popular accompaniments 
 of corn-starch pudding. 
 
 * Rice Caramel Pudding. 
 
 For this pudding use one cupful of rice, one quart and 
 two gills of milk, one teaspoonful of salt, two eggs, one 
 stick of cinnamon, and half a cupful of sugar. 
 
 Wash the rice in three waters, and soak in cold water 
 for two hours ; then drain off all the water, and put the 
 rice in the double-boiler with the milk and cinnamon. 
 Cook for two hours. 
 
 Put the sugar into a small frying-pan, and stir until it 
 turns brown and becomes liquid. Instantly pour this 
 liquid into a three-pint mould that has been warmed on 
 the back part of the range. Turn the mould round so 
 as to coat all parts of it with the sugar. The liquid 
 hardens quickly, and the work must be done rapidly, or 
 the sugar will not spread. Now add to the rice the salt 
 
606 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 and the two eggs, well beaten, and stir well. Pack this 
 mixture in the sugar-lined mould. Cover the mould, and 
 after placing it in a pan of hot water, set it in the 
 oven. Bake for half an hour. 
 
 On taking the pudding from the oven, let it stand for 
 ten minutes ; then turn out on a flat dish. Serve with a 
 soft custard. The pudding is to be served hot and the 
 sauce cold. Flavor the custard with vanilla. 
 
 * Plain Rice Pudding. 
 
 Wash half a cupful of rice in three waters, and soak 
 it in cold water for two hours. Drain off the water, and 
 add a level teaspoonful of salt, a slight grating of nut- 
 meg, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a cupful of 
 stoned raisins, and one quart of milk. Cook in a very 
 moderate oven for two hours, stirring twice in the first 
 half-hour. At the end of two hours add half a pint of 
 cold milk ; stir well, and cook for an hour longer. Serve 
 in the dish in which it is cooked. 
 
 * Boiled Rice Pudding. 
 
 Wash a cupful of rice in three waters, and, putting it 
 into a double-boiler containing two cupfuls of cold water, 
 cook it for half an hour ; then add a quart of milk and 
 a teaspoonful of salt, and cook for two hours longer. 
 Serve with sugar and cream. 
 
 When there are children in the family it is a good 
 plan to put a cupful of raisins into the cold water with 
 the rice. The fruit is healthful, and makes the pudding 
 more attractive and toothsome. 
 
 * Minute Pudding. 
 
 The materials are : one pint of boiling water, a pint and 
 a half of milk, half a pint of sifted flour, one teaspoonful 
 of salt, and two eggs. 
 
PUDDINGS. 607 
 
 Put one pint of the milk in the double-boiler. Mix 
 the flour with the half-pint of cold milk. Beat the eggs 
 light, and add them and the salt to the flour and milk. 
 Now add one pint of boiling water to the hot milk. 
 Take the inner boiler from the water, and place it on the 
 stove. When the milk and water boil up, stir in the 
 mixture of flour, milk, and eggs. Beat well for one 
 minute. Now return the boiler to the water-boiler, and 
 cook for ten minutes, stirring frequently. Serve with 
 lemon or vanilla sauce. 
 
 * Bread Pudding. 
 
 Soak one pint of stale bread in one quart of cold milk 
 for two hours. At the end of that time mash the bread 
 fine. Beat together three table-spoonfuls of sugar, one 
 teaspoonful of salt, and two eggs. Stir this into the 
 bread and milk. Pour the mixture into an earthen pud- 
 ding-dish, and bake in a slow oven for three-quarters of 
 an hour. Serve with a vanilla or cream sauce. 
 
 * Chocolate Pudding. 
 
 For six persons use one quart of milk, one pint of 
 stale bread, four eggs, one ounce of grated chocolate 
 (that made by Walter Baker & Co., Boston, is excellent 
 for such purposes), half a cupful of granulated sugar, 
 three table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, half a teaspoon- 
 ful of vanilla extract, and one teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Soak the bread and milk together for two hours ; then 
 mash the bread fine by pressing it with a spoon against 
 the side of the bowl. Put the chocolate, three table- 
 spoonfuls of the granulated sugar, and one table-spoonful 
 of boiling water in a small stew-pan, and stir over a hot 
 fire until the liquid becomes smooth and glossy. Now 
 take from the fire, and add a few spoonfuls of bread and 
 milk. Stir until the mixture is thin and smooth ; then 
 add it to the bread and milk. 
 
608 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Beat the yolks and one white of the egg with the 
 remainder of the granulated sugar. Add this mixture 
 and the salt to the bread and milk. Pour into a pud- 
 ding-dish, and bake in a slow oven for forty minutes. 
 
 Now beat the three remaining whites to a stiff, dry 
 froth, and with a spoon beat into them three table- 
 spoonfuls of powdered sugar and the vanilla. Spread 
 this me'ringue over the pudding, and cook for a quarter 
 of an hour longer with the oven door open. Serve qpith 
 whipped cream. 
 
 When it is inconvenient to use cream, the me'ringue 
 will suffice as a sauce. If a strong flavor of chocolate 
 be liked, use two ounces instead of one. This may be 
 served cold, if so preferred. 
 
 * Bride's Pudding. 
 
 Put a quart of milk on to heat in a double-boiler. 
 Mix six table-spoonfuls of corn-starch with half a cup- 
 ful of cold milk, and add the yolks of four eggs and a 
 teaspoonful of salt. Stir this mixture into the quart 
 of boiling milk, and cook for eight minutes, stirring 
 occasionally. Butter a pudding-dish, and pour the mix- 
 ture into it ; but be careful to have a space of two inches 
 from the surface of the mixture to the edge of the dish, 
 for a me'ringue. Cook in a moderate oven for twenty 
 minutes; then let it stand in a cool place for twenty 
 minutes more. 
 
 Beat the whites of the four eggs to a stiff, dry froth, 
 and with a spoon gradually beat into them six table- 
 spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Spread this meringue 
 over the pudding, and cook in the oven, with the door 
 open, for twenty minutes. Serve immediately with cold 
 sauce. 
 
 * Prune Pudding. 
 
 For this pudding and its sauce there will be required 
 five eggs, seven table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, a 
 
PUDDINGS. 609 
 
 quarter of a pound of prunes, half a teaspoonful of cream- 
 of-tartar, a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, a pint of milk, 
 and half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. 
 
 Separate the whites of the eggs from the yolks, and 
 put them in a cold place until it is time to use them. 
 Reserve half a cupful of the milk, and put the remainder 
 into the double-boiler and upon the stove. Beat the 
 yolks of the eggs with two table-spoonfuls of sugar and 
 one-eighth of a teaspoonful of salt. Add the cold milk 
 and then the boiling milk, and put the mixture into 
 the double-boiler to cook until it begins to thicken, 
 say for five minutes, stirring all the while. As it be- 
 comes thick, remove it from the fire and pour into a 
 bowl to cool. Flavor with half a teaspoonful of vanilla 
 extract. This is the sauce. 
 
 To make the pudding, wash the prunes carefully, and 
 after just covering them with cold water, cook them 
 slowly for an hour and a half. Take them up at the 
 end of that time, and spread them on a dish to cool ; and 
 when they are cold, remove the stones, and cut each 
 prune into three or four pieces. 
 
 Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth. Mix five 
 table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar with one-eighth of a 
 teaspoonful of salt and the half-teaspoonful of cream-of- 
 tartar. Beat this mixture lightly into the beaten whites 
 of the eggs. Butter a two-quart pudding-dish slightly, 
 and drop into it about half the mixture. Sprinkle in 
 about half of the prunes; then add almost all the re- 
 mainder of the mixture and the rest of the prunes, 
 and finish by covering the fruit with the small part of 
 the mixture reserved. Bake in a very moderate oven for 
 twenty-two minutes. 
 
 This pudding may be served either hot or cold. If, 
 in making some other dish, you have any whites of 
 eggs left, you may use them for this pudding, and 
 serve it with whipped cream instead of the sauce given 
 above. 
 
 38 
 
610 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Steamed Roly-poly Pudding. 
 
 For six persons use one pint of flour, one teaspoonful 
 and a half of baking-powder, one teaspoonful of sugar, 
 half a teaspoonful of salt, two table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 nearly a small cupful of milk, and three pints of any 
 kind of berries. 
 
 Mix the dry ingredients, and rub them through a sieve. 
 Now rub the butter into the mixture. Add the milk, 
 and stir the dough into a smooth ball. Sprinkle the 
 moulding-board with flour ; then lay the dough upon it, 
 and roll down to the thickness of one-third of an inch. 
 Spread the berries over the dough, keeping free of berries 
 a space of about an inch at the ends and on one side. 
 Eoll up the dough, beginning at the side where the 
 berries reach to the edge. Press together the ends of 
 this roll ; then lay the roll in a buttered pan. Cover 
 with a napkin, and place in a steamer over a kettle of 
 boiling water. Steam for two hours. Serve with a hot, 
 rich sauce. 
 
 Any kind of fruit may be used for this dessert. 
 
 Sponge Roly-poly. 
 
 Use one quart of stewed, sweetened, and flavored fruit, 
 three eggs, one cupful of sugar, one of flour, one tea- 
 spoonful of baking-powder, and the juice of one lemon. 
 
 Mix the baking-powder and flour, and rub the mixture 
 through a sieve. Beat the yolks of the eggs, the sugar, 
 and lemon juice together ; then add the whites of the 
 eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and finally add the flour. 
 Spread the mixture in a large buttered pan, and bake in 
 a rather slow oven for twenty minutes. On taking from 
 the pan, cut off the crusty edges. Now spread the fruit 
 over the cake, and roll up the cake. Serve with hot 
 syrup flavored with fruit juice or wine. Or the pud- 
 ding may be served with plain or whipped cream. If 
 whipped cream be used, heap it around the pudding. 
 
PUDDINGS. 611 
 
 To Make the Syrup. Boil one cupful of sugar with 
 one of water for twenty minutes ; then add -the flavor, 
 which may be five table-spoonfuls of wine, or the juice 
 and rind of one lemon, or the juice and rind of two 
 oranges, or half a cupful of strawberry or raspberry 
 juice. Any of these flavors will go well with almost 
 any fruit. 
 
 * Boiled Cherry Pudding. 
 
 This is made of two quarts of stoned cherries, three 
 eggs, one pint and a half of stale bread, one pint of milk, 
 one pint of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, two of baking- 
 powder, one table-spoonful of sugar, and one-fourth of a 
 nutmeg. 
 
 Soak the bread in the milk for an hour. Mix the 
 sugar, salt, and baking-powder with the flour, and after 
 grating the nutmeg over the mixture, sift all into the 
 bowl containing the bread and milk. Now add the eggs, 
 well beaten, and finally the cherries. 
 
 Dip the pudding-cloth in boiling water, and then spread 
 it in a deep pudding-dish. Dredge it well with flour, and 
 then pour the batter upon it. Draw the cloth together, 
 and tie it tight. Have a tin plate at the bottom of a 
 large pot that is half filled with boiling water. Drop 
 the pudding into this pot, and boil it constantly for two 
 hours. If the water boils away, add boiling water from 
 the tea-kettle. 
 
 When the pudding is done, lift it from the pot and 
 plunge it into cold water, removing it immediately ; then 
 open the cloth and turn out the pudding. Serve at once 
 with hot rich sauce. 
 
 The pudding may be steamed, if convenient. In this 
 case butter the pudding-tin thoroughly, and allow space 
 for the pudding to increase one-third in size. Steam 
 for two hours and a half. 
 
 Stoning the cherries may rob them of some of their 
 flavor, and the stoning is not absolutely necegsary. 
 
612 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Peach-and-Rice Pudding. 
 
 The materials needed are : half a cupful of rice, two 
 cupfuls and a half of milk, one cupful of sugar, two of 
 water, a dozen large peaches, and a scant half-teaspoonf ul 
 of salt. 
 
 Wash the rice, and soak it for two hours in cold water ; 
 then drain off the water, and put the rice and milk in 
 the double-boiler, to cook for two hours. At the end of 
 that time stir in the salt, and cook for half an hour 
 longer. 
 
 When the rice has been cooking for an hour and a half, 
 put the peaches in a wire basket and plunge them into 
 boiling water for two minutes. On taking them out, rub 
 off the skins, and cut the fruit in halves. 
 
 Break six of the peach stones, and, putting them in 
 a stew-pan with the sugar and water, simmer for half 
 an hour. Now take out the stones, and put the fruit in 
 the syrup. Simmer for a quarter of an hour. Take up 
 the rice, when the quarter-hour has passed, and spread half 
 of it on a flat dish, having the layer about half an inch 
 thick. Save fifteen of the best halves of the peaches, 
 and spread four of the remaining pieces on the rice. Put 
 another layer of rice on top of the fruit, having the 
 mound taper. On top of this layer put four more pieces 
 of peach, and then cover with the remaining rice, which 
 should be heaped to a point at the top. Cap with half 
 a peach. Arrange the fifteen reserved pieces around the 
 base of the mound. Pour the syrup into a sauce-boat, 
 and serve it with the pudding. The juice of an orange, 
 two table-spoonfuls of wine, or one table-spoonful of 
 maraschino may be added to the syrup. 
 
 Another way of serving this dish is to pour the syrup 
 over the peaches as they are arranged on the rice, and 
 serve cream with the pudding. 
 
 This may be served cold, if so preferred. 
 
 & 
 
PUDDINGS. 613 
 
 * Peach-and-Tapioca Pudding. 
 
 For this pudding there will be required one can of 
 peaches, a generous half-pint of tapioca, three-fourths 
 of a cupful of sugar, half a teaspoonf ul of salt, and one 
 quart of water. 
 
 Soak the tapioca over night in the cold water. In the 
 morning turn it, with the water, into a double-boiler, and 
 cook for one hour. On removing from the stove, add 
 the salt, sugar, and juice of the peaches, and stir thor- 
 oughly. Pour a layer of the mixture into a well-buttered 
 pudding-dish; then lay in the peaches, and pour over 
 the fruit the remainder of the tapioca. Bake in a mod- 
 erately hot oven for one hour. Cool it a little, and serve 
 with sugar and cream. 
 
 
 * Boiled Sago or Tapioca Pudding. 
 
 Wash a cupful of sago or tapioca, and soak it over 
 night in two cupfuls of cold water. In the morning 
 pour off the water, and put the tapioca into the double- 
 boiler. Add a generous quart of milk and one teaspoon- 
 ful of salt. Cook for an hour, and serve with sugar and 
 cream. 
 
 * Steamed Berry Pudding. 
 
 To make enough pudding for six or eight persons one 
 requires a pint of milk, a pint and a half of flour, a pint 
 and a half of blueberries or blackberries, half a teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, two level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, and 
 an egg. 
 
 Mix the salt and baking-powder with the flour, and 
 rub through a sieve. Add the milk, the egg, well beaten, 
 and then the berries. Pour the batter into a buttered 
 tin mould or basin, one that will hold more than two 
 quarts, and steam for two hours. Serve with hard 
 sauce or any rich liquid sauce. 
 
614 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Blueberry Pudding. 
 
 For six persons use one quart of berries, one quart of 
 milk, a pint and a half of stale bread, two eggs, one tea- 
 spoonful of salt, one-quarter of a nutmeg, grated, and 
 four table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
 
 Soak the bread and milk for two hours; then break 
 up the bread with a spoon. Beat the eggs, salt, sugar, 
 and nutmeg together. Add this mixture to the bread 
 and milk. Stir well, and then add the berries. Turn 
 into a pudding-dish, and bake in a slow oven for fifty 
 minutes. Serve with a creamy or foaming sauce. 
 
 * Baked Berry Pudding. 
 
 The materials needed are : two cupfuls and a half of 
 flour, one cupful of milk, half a cupful of sugar, two 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, two heaping teaspoonfuls of 
 baking-powder, the whites of three eggs, and one quart 
 of berries, blueberries or blackberries. 
 
 Rub the butter and sugar together. Beat the whites 
 of the eggs to a stiff froth. Mix the flour and baking- 
 powder. Add the milk to the sugar and butter; then 
 stir in the flour, and add the beaten whites ; finally add 
 the berries. Pour into a buttered pudding-dish that will 
 hold nearly three quarts. Bake in a moderate oven for 
 three-quarters of an hour, and serve with a hot sauce. 
 
 By some people the addition of a little nutmeg may 
 be considered as an improvement. 
 
 * Batter Berry Pudding. 
 
 This is not so rich a pudding as that just described, 
 but it is very nice. It is made of a pint of milk, one 
 pint and a half of flour, a quart of berries, four eggs, half 
 a teaspoonful of salt, and about a quarter of a nutmeg, 
 grated. 
 
PUDDINGS. 615 
 
 Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth ; then add 
 the yolks, and beat for a minute longer. Add the milk 
 to this mixture, and gradually pour the liquid upon the 
 flour. Add the salt and nutmeg, and beat vigorously. 
 Add the berries, and after pouring the batter into a but- 
 tered pudding-dish, bake for an hour in a moderate oven. 
 This pudding must be served as soon as it is taken from 
 the oven. A rich sauce should be provided with it. 
 
 * Steamed Black Pudding. 
 
 Boil together slowly for fifteen minutes a quart of 
 blueberries, a pint of water, and half a pint of sugar. 
 Meanwhile cut a small loaf of baker's bread in thin slices, 
 and butter these lightly. Put a layer of the bread into 
 a deep pudding-dish, and cover it with some of the hot 
 berries ; and continue making layers until all the mate- 
 rials have been used. The last layer should be of ber- 
 ries. Steam for one hour and a half, and serve with hot 
 sauce. 
 
 Blackberries may be substituted for blueberries. 
 
 * Medford Berry Pudding. 
 
 Use one quart of blueberries, one cupful of molasses, 
 two of flour, one teaspoonful of soda, two table-spoonfuls 
 of water, and half a teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Dissolve the soda in the water, and stir this liquid and 
 the salt into the molasses. Mix the flour and berries, 
 and stir into the molasses. Turn the mixture into a 
 buttered tin pudding-mould, and steam for three hours 
 and a half. Serve with a cold sauce or any hot liquid 
 sauce. 
 
 Any kind of berries may be used with this pudding, 
 and when berries are not in season, two quarts of apples, 
 pared, and chopped fine, may be substituted. 
 
616 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Baked Apple Pudding. 
 
 Put into a chopping-tray a quart of flour, a cupful of 
 butter, a teaspoonful of salt, and a table-spoonful of 
 sugar, and chop lightly, in a cool place. When the 
 butter and flour have become well mixed, add a little 
 more than half a cupful of ice-water. Mix the ingre- 
 dients lightly, and place in the ice-chest until the time for 
 completing the work. The paste may be used at once, 
 but will be better if first chilled. The hands' must not 
 touch it during the making, and care must be taken to 
 prevent the butter and flour from becoming warm or 
 sticky during the chopping. 
 
 Butter a deep earthen dish that will hold about three 
 quarts, and line the sides with strips of the paste. Now 
 fill the dish with pared and quartered apples. Sprinkle 
 a cupful of sugar and grate half a nutmeg over the fruit, 
 and pour a cupful of cold water over it. A table-spoon- 
 ful of cinnamon and two of butter may be added, if you 
 choose. Eoll the remaining paste into a round sheet 
 large enough to cover the dish. Place this carefully over 
 the dish, pressing the edges against the lining at the 
 sides. Bake the pudding slowly for three hours, and 
 serve with sugar and cream. 
 
 * Steamed Apple Pudding. 
 
 This is the list of ingredients : one quart of flour, two 
 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, one teaspoonful 
 of salt, three table-spoonfuls of butter, one of sugar, a 
 scant pint of milk, two quarts of pared and quartered 
 apples, and a slight grating of nutmeg. 
 
 Mix the flour, salt, baking-powder, and one table-spoon- 
 ful of the sugar, and rub through a sieve. Now rub the 
 butter into the mixture, and then wet the mixture with 
 the milk. Butter a mould that holds about three quarts. 
 Roll rather thin enough of the dough to cover the bottom 
 
PUDDINGS. 617 
 
 and sides of the mould. Lay the apples in the mould, 
 and after sprinkling them with the two remaining spoon- 
 fuls of sugar, grate over them about one-third of a 
 nutmeg. 
 
 Now roll the rest of the dough into a piece large 
 enough to cover the top of the mould, bringing the edges 
 of the paste together. Butter well the cover of the 
 mould and put it in its place. Steam the pudding for 
 two hours and a half ; then turn out on a dish and serve 
 with a sauce made as follows : 
 
 Sauce. Use one cupful of sugar, one of water, two 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, one of corn-starch, the grated 
 rind and the juice of one lemon, and one-third of a nut- 
 meg, grated. 
 
 Mix the corn-starch with two table-spoonfuls of the 
 cupful of water, and put the rest of the water on the 
 stove in a small stew-pan. When the water begins to 
 boil, stir in the corn-starch, and continue the boiling for 
 ten minutes ; then add the sugar, lemon, and nutmeg, 
 and simmer for fifteen minutes. Add the butter at the 
 end of that time, and cook five minutes longer. 
 
 * Rolled Apple Pudding. 
 
 In making this pudding there must be taken a pint of 
 unsifted flour, three pints of pared and chopped apples, 
 one cupful of sugar, four table-spoonfuls of butter, about 
 a quarter of a nutmeg, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 
 half a teaspoonful of salt, and one cupful of milk. 
 
 Mix well in a sieve, and then rub through it, the flour, 
 salt, baking-powder, and two table-spoonfuls of the sugar. 
 Rub a table-spoonful of butter into this mixture, and 
 then stir in the milk. When a smooth dough has been 
 formed, sprinkle a moulding-board lightly with flour and 
 turn the ball of dough upon it. Roll down to the thick- 
 ness of about a quarter of an inch. Spread two table- 
 spoonfuls of butter on the dough, and sprinkle one-third 
 
618 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 of a cupful of sugar over it. Now spread the chopped 
 apple upon the dough ; and after grating the nutmeg 
 over it, sprinkle it with the remainder of the sugar. Roll 
 up the same as jelly cake, and cut into pieces about an 
 inch and a half long. Spread the remaining table-spoon- 
 ful of butter on the bottom of a cake-pan. Place the 
 pieces of the roll on end in the pan, and bake for half an 
 hour in a moderate oven. Serve with lemon sauce. 
 
 * Layer Apple Pudding. 
 
 To make this pudding one needs two quarts of sliced 
 apples, one cupful and a half of sugar, half a cupful of 
 water, three table-spoonfuls of butter, one-third of a nut- 
 meg, and seven large slices of stale bread. 
 
 Soften the butter, that it may be easily spread. Soak 
 the bread in cold water until it is soft ; one minute prob- 
 ably will be sufficient time if the slices be stale and light. 
 Set out a pudding-dish that holds about three quarts. 
 Butter the bread, and put a layer on the bottom of the 
 dish. Spread upon it half of the apple, and sprinkle the 
 fruit with half of the sugar and nutmeg. Now make a 
 second layer of bread, and cover it with the remaining 
 apple, sprinkling with sugar and nutmeg, as before. 
 Pour the water into the dish by spoonfuls. Cover with 
 a large plate, and bake in a slow oven for two hours and 
 a half. 
 
 This may be served hot or cold. Cream is a fit ac- 
 companiment. 
 
 * Canadian Apple Pudding. 
 
 This is a simple pudding, being made of a pint of flour, 
 a cupful of milk, one egg, three table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 one table-spoonful of baking-powder, one cupful of sugar, 
 half a cupful of water, two quarts of pared and quartered 
 apples, half a teaspoonful of salt, and about one-fifth of 
 a nutmeg, 
 
PUDDINGS, 619 
 
 Put the apples, sugar, reserving two table-spoonfuls, 
 however, nutmeg, and water into a deep pudding-dish. 
 Place in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Mix well 
 in a sieve, and then rub through it, the flour, baking- 
 powder, salt, and the two table-spoonfuls of sugar. Add 
 the milk and the eggs, well beaten, and stir with a spoon 
 until a smooth dough is formed ; then add the butter, 
 melted. Eemove the dish from the oven, and spread 
 the batter on top of the apples. Return the pudding to 
 the oven, and after increasing the heat, bake for twenty 
 minutes. At serving-time turn the pudding out on a flat 
 dish, having the crust underneath and the apple on top. 
 Or the pudding may be served with the crust on top, in 
 the dish in which it was baked. Serve with nutmeg or 
 lemon sauce. 
 
 * Stewed Apple Pudding. 
 
 The materials needed are : two quarts of pared and 
 quartered tart apples, half a pint of water, a slight grat- 
 ing of nutmeg, one pint of flour, two scant teaspoonfuls 
 of baking-powder, half a teaspoonful of salt, one tea- 
 spoonful of sugar, and a scant teacupful of milk. 
 
 Put the apples, water, and nutmeg in a large flat- 
 bottomed stew-pan, and place on the fire, to heat slowly. 
 Mix the dry ingredients with the flour, and rub through 
 a sieve. Stir the milk into this mixture, and mix quickly. 
 See that the apples are boiling ; then roll the dough down 
 to the size of the cover of the stew-pan. Lay this over the 
 boiling apples. Cover the pan closely, and draw it back 
 where the contents will not boil quite so hard. Cook for 
 twenty-five minutes. Slip a broad skimmer under the 
 cooked crust, and lift it quickly to a dish. Pour the 
 apple into a large dish, and place the crust on top. 
 Serve with molasses sauce. If, however, molasses sauce 
 be not liked, use any sweet sauce you please. ' 
 
 For a change, add a table- spoonful bf butter and a 
 
620 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 cupful of sugar to the apples when they are put on to 
 cook. In this case serve cream instead of sauce with the 
 pudding. 
 
 * Baked Apple Dumplings. 
 
 For eight dumplings use the same number of large tart 
 apples, three cupfuls of flour, one cupful of butter, the 
 juice of one lemon, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, about 
 half a cupful of cold water, a level teaspoonful of salt, 
 and a piece of soda about the size of a pea. 
 
 Put the flour, salt, sugar, and butter in the chopping- 
 tray, and chop until the butter is cut into bits about the 
 size of a bean. Be rather scant in the measurement of 
 the water. Dissolve the soda in it ; then add the lemon 
 juice, and pour the liquid upon the mixture in the chop- 
 ping-tray, chopping and mixing all the time. When the 
 mixture becomes a smooth paste, sprinkle the moulding- 
 board lightly with flour, and turn the paste from the 
 tray upon the board. Koll it down to the thickness of 
 about half an inch ; then fold, and roll again, using as 
 little flour as possible. Now put in a cold place, if 
 possible, on ice. 
 
 Pare and core the apples. Grate a little nutmeg in 
 the centre of each apple. Now cut off one-eighth of the 
 paste, and- roll it into a round large enough to cover an 
 apple. Place an apple in the centre of this paste ; then 
 gather up the edges and press them together. Cover all 
 the apples in this manner. 
 
 Butter the bottom of a shallow cake-pan, and place the 
 dumplings in it, having the side where the paste was 
 drawn together come underneath. Bake in a moderate 
 oven for forty minutes. Serve with lemon cream sauce. 
 
 * Apple Custard Pudding. 
 
 The materials needed are : a quart of pared and quar- 
 tered apples, two cupfuls of grated bread crumbs, a gen- 
 erous half-cupful of sugar, two table-spoonfuls of flour, 
 
PUDDINGS. 621 
 
 two of butter, two eggs, a lemon, and half a cupful of 
 water. 
 
 Put the apples and water into a stew-pan, and cook 
 until the apples will mash easily; then remove from 
 the fire, and add the sugar, butter, and the juice and 
 grated rind of the lemon. Mix the flour with the bread 
 crumbs, and stir into the mixture. Beat the eggs until 
 they are light, and add them to the other ingredients. 
 Turn into a buttered pudding-dish, and bake in a moderate 
 oven for three-quarters of an hour. Serve with hard 
 sauce or with sugar and cream. 
 
 * Apple Duff. 
 
 Pare and quarter a dozen large tart apples, and put 
 them into a kettle with a cupful of molasses, or sugar, 
 if you prefer, two table-spoonfuls of butter, one table- 
 spoonful of cinnamon, and a pint of water. Heat to the 
 boiling-point, and meanwhile make a paste with a pint 
 of flour, a teaspoonful of cream-of-tartar, half a tea- 
 spoonful of soda, a teaspoonful of sugar, half a teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, and a small cupful of milk. Mix the dry in- 
 gredients, and rub them through a sieve. Stir the milk 
 into the mixture, and (using a spoon) stir the dough into 
 the form of a smooth ball. This work must be done 
 rapidly. After sprinkling the bread-board with flour, 
 turn the dough upon it, and roll down to a size just 
 large enough to fit into the kettle containing the apples. 
 When the contents of this kettle begin to boil, put in the 
 paste. Cover tightly, and boil gently for twenty min- 
 utes. At the end of that time remove the paste with 
 a broad skimmer. Pour the stewed apple into a large 
 
 dish, and lay the paste over it. 
 
 
 
 * Apple-and-Rice Pudding. 
 
 Put a teaspoonful of salt into two generous cupfuls of 
 water, and boil a cupful of rice in the water for a quarter 
 
622 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 of an hour. Butter a pudding-cloth, and spread the rice 
 on it. Put two quarts of pared and quartered apples 
 in the centre of the rice. Gather up the ends of the 
 pudding-cloth, and tie them tightly. Plunge the pudding 
 into a kettle of boiling water. Cook for an hour, and 
 serve with hot molasses or sugar sauce. 
 
 * Apple-and-Bread Pudding. 
 
 Another apple pudding can be made by dipping eight 
 thick slices of stale bread in cold water ; buttering them ; 
 lining the sides of a buttered two-quart dish with the 
 bread ; filling the dish with sliced apples ; sprinkling a 
 cupful of sugar, one teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, 
 and half a cupful of water into the dish ; covering the 
 dish with a large plate, and baking in a very moderate 
 oven for three hours. Let it cool for half an hour ; then 
 turn out on a warm dish, and serve with sugar and 
 cream. 
 
 * Brown Betty Pudding. 
 
 Take for this pudding a cupful of grated bread crumbs, 
 two cupfuls of fine-chopped tart apples, half a cupful of 
 brown sugar, a teaspoonful of cinnamon, and one table- 
 spoonful of butter, cut into bits. 
 
 Butter a deep pudding-dish, and put a layer of apples 
 on the bottom ; then sprinkle with sugar, cinnamon, and 
 butter, and cover with bread crumbs. Put in another 
 layer of apple, and proceed as before until all the in- 
 gredients have been used, having a layer of crumbs last. 
 Cover the dish, and bake for three-quarters of an hour in 
 a moderate oven ; then remove the cover, and brown the 
 top of the pudding. Pin a napkin around the dish. 
 Serve with sugar and cream. 
 
 Brown Cap Pudding. 
 
 For a pudding sufficiently large for six persons use 
 these materials : one quart of milk, four eggs, half a 
 
PUDDINGS. 623 
 
 cupful of flour, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of salt, and 
 half a teaspoonful of baking-powder. 
 
 Beat the yolks of the eggs until light, and add to 
 them half a cupful of the milk. Pour this mixture on 
 the flour, and beat to a smooth paste. Now add the 
 remainder of the milk, and the salt. Beat the whites of 
 the eggs to a stiff froth, and add them also. Sift the 
 baking-powder over the mixture, and then beat thor- 
 oughly. Pour the batter into a buttered dish that holds 
 about two quarts, and bake in a moderate oven for an 
 hour. . Serve with brown cap sauce. 
 
 Sponge Batter Pudding. 
 
 This is a delicate pudding, especially nice when accom- 
 panied with cream sauce. Put half a pint of milk on to 
 heat in a double-boiler, and meanwhile mix another half- 
 pint with a generous half-cupful of flour, making a smooth 
 paste. Put this paste into the kettle when the clear milk 
 begins to boil, and stir the mixture until it is smooth ; then 
 cook for four minutes, and remove from the fire. Add 
 three level table-spoonfuls of butter, a quarter of a cup- 
 ful of sugar, and the beaten yolks of three eggs, and let 
 the pudding cool slightly. Beat the whites of the three 
 eggs to a stiff froth, and add to the mixture. Carefully 
 butter a pudding-dish holding about five pints, and pour 
 the mixture into it. Set into a large pan, and pour 
 about it hot water enough to come half-way up the sides 
 of the dish. Bake in a quick oven for half an hour, and 
 serve without delay. 
 
 Steamed Batter Pudding. 
 
 This requires a pint of milk, a cupful of flour, four 
 eggs, and half a teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 The first step is to butter a plain tin mould that can 
 be closely covered. It is well to use a melon mould, if 
 
624 MISS PAELOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 you have one. Next fill a pot with boiling water, and 
 set a steamer over it. Beat the eggs till very light, and 
 add the inilk to them. After sprinkling the flour with 
 the salt, pour half of this egg mixture upon it ; and 
 after beating until smooth and light, pour upon it the 
 remainder of the egg mixture. Pour the batter into the 
 buttered mould, and after covering the mould, set it in 
 the steamer. Cook the pudding for one hour and ten 
 minutes, and after gently turning out upon a warm dish, 
 serve with foaming or creamy sauce, or any other rich 
 sauce. 
 
 * Cottage Pudding. 
 
 After rubbing together a cupful of sugar and a table- 
 spoonful of butter, add two eggs ; and after beating the 
 mixture until light, add a cupful of milk. Mix well in 
 a sieve a pint of sifted flour and three teaspoonfuls of 
 baking-powder, and rub through the sieve so that this 
 mixture shall fall upon that already made. Beat quickly, 
 and pour the batter into one large pudding-dish, or two 
 small ones. Sprinkle with sugar. Bake in a moderate 
 oven for forty minutes, if there be only one dish, or 
 thirty, if there be two. Serve hot with lemon sauce or 
 any sweet sauce. 
 
 * Steamed Cottage Pudding. 
 
 For six or eight persons use two cupfuls of sifted 
 flour, one cupful of milk, one cupful of sugar, two eggs, 
 one table-spoonful of melted butter, two teaspoonfuls of 
 baking-powder, and one-fourth of a nutmeg, grated. 
 
 Mix the butter and sugar; then add the unbeaten 
 eggs, and beat the mixture until it becomes light. Now 
 add the nutmeg and milk, and finally the flour, in which 
 the baking-powder has been mixed. Pour this batter 
 into a well-buttered two-quart mould. Have the inside 
 of the cover also buttered, and place the cover on the 
 
PUDDINGS. 625 
 
 mould. Set in a steamer over a pot of boiling water, 
 and cook for an hour and a quarter. Turn out on a 
 warm dish, and serve with strawberry sauce. 
 
 * Graham Pudding. 
 
 For this pudding one needs a cupful and a half of 
 graham, one cupful of milk, half a cupful of molasses, 
 one cupful of chopped raisins, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
 and one teaspoonful of soda. 
 
 Sift the graham in order to make it light, but return 
 the bran to the sifted mixture. Dissolve the soda in one 
 table-spoonful of the milk, and add the" remainder of 
 the milk, the molasses, and the salt. Pour this mixture 
 upon the graham, and beat well. Add the raisins, and 
 pour the pudding into a two-quart pan. Steam for four 
 hours ; then turn out and serve with golden sauce. 
 
 * Feather Pudding. 
 
 The materials used are : two level table-spoonfuls of 
 butter, three eggs, one cupful of sugar, two scant cupfuls 
 of sifted flour, half a cupful of milk, two teaspoonfuls of 
 baking-powder, and one teaspoonful of vanilla. 
 
 Beat the sugar, butter, and yolks of the eggs until 
 light ; then add the whites, beaten to a stiff froth, and 
 afterward the flour and milk. Mix the sifted flour and 
 the baking-powder, and sift into the bowl containing 
 the other ingredients. Beat thoroughly and quickly, 
 and pour into a buttered deep round pan that will hold 
 about three quarts. Bake in a moderate oven for forty 
 minutes. When done, turn out on a large plate or dish, 
 and serve with chocolate sauce. 
 
 * Sponge Pudding. 
 
 After beating three eggs until very light, add to them 
 a cupful and a half of sugar, and beat again with a 
 
626 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 spoon until light and frothy; then add the juice of a 
 lemon (half the grated rind, too, if you like a strong 
 flavor), and half a cupful of cold water. Mix two cup- 
 fuls of sifted flour with a teaspoonful and a half of 
 baking-powder, and stir into the first mixture. Beat 
 quickly and well. Bake in two deep round pans for 
 half an hour, and serve with vanilla or lemon sauce or 
 any other liquid sauce. 
 
 If new-process flour be used, your measure of flour 
 must be rather scant. 
 
 German Puffs. 
 
 These are very nice for dessert. To make them one 
 must take half a cupful of butter, one cupful of milk, 
 two cupfuls of flour, one cupful of granulated sugar, one 
 cupful of powdered sugar, three eggs, half a teaspoonful 
 of soda, one teaspoonful of cream-of-tartar, and the rind 
 and juice of two oranges. 
 
 After grating the rind of the oranges very lightly, 
 squeeze the juice upon it. Set away until the time for 
 making a sauce for the puffs. 
 
 Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually beat into 
 it the granulated sugar. When the mixture is light 
 and creamy, add the unbeaten yolks of the eggs. Beat 
 vigorously ; then add the milk and finally the flour, with 
 the soda and cream-of-tartar mixed with it. Bake for 
 twenty minutes in well-buttered muffin-pans. 
 
 Meanwhile make the sauce. Beat the whites of the 
 three eggs to a stiff, dry froth, and gradually beat into 
 this froth the powdered sugar. Add the orange juice 
 and rind, and the work will be completed. 
 
 Turn the puffs out on a flat dish, and pour the sauce 
 over them. Serve immediately. If you prefer, a lemon 
 may be substituted for the two oranges. It must, of 
 course, be treated like them. 
 
PUDDINGS. 627 
 
 Queen Puffs. 
 
 These are made of two cupfuls of sifted flour, one 
 cupful of water, half a cupful of butter, two table-spoon- 
 fuls of sugar, six eggs, and the grated rind of a lemon. 
 
 Put the butter, sugar, water, and lemon rind on the 
 fire in a large saucepan. When these ingredients begin 
 to boil, add the flour, and stir vigorously until the mix- 
 ture is smooth and soft to the touch. About three 
 minutes' stirring will be needed. On taking from the 
 fire, turn into a large bowl and set away to cool. When 
 the mixture becomes cool, break the eggs into a bowl. 
 Add half the eggs to the cooked mixture, and beat with 
 the hand. When the two parts get well mixed, add the 
 remainder of the eggs, and beat for fifteen or twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 Butter a large baking-pan lightly. Drop the dough 
 into the pan by table-spoonfuls, having the spoonfuls 
 about an inch apart. Bake the puffs in a quick oven 
 for half an hour. Serve hot with strawberry sauce or 
 any clear sauce. 
 
 Snowballs. 
 
 Snowballs are made of three eggs, one cupful of sugar, 
 one scant cupful of sifted flour, one teaspoonful and a 
 half of baking-powder, three table-spoonfuls of water, 
 the grated yellow rind of one lemon, and two table-spoon- 
 fuls of lemon juice. 
 
 Beat the sugar and yolks of the eggs together until 
 light, and beat the whit'es to a stiff froth in another bowl. 
 Now beat the water, lemon rind, and juice into the yolks 
 and sugar ; then add the beaten whites, and finally the 
 flour and baking-powder, mixed. Stir quickly and well. 
 Pour this batter into fifteen little stone or earthen cups 
 that have been well buttered, and cook in a steamer for 
 half an hour. Have three table-spoonfuls of powdered 
 sugar on a plate, and when the snowballs are done, turn 
 
628 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 them out of the cups upon this plate, and roll them iii 
 the sugar. Serve at once with hot clear wine sauce. 
 
 * Baked Indian Pudding. 
 
 Pour a quart of boiling milk gradually upon a cupful 
 of Indian meal, and beat the mixture until it is per- 
 fectly smooth; then put it into the double-boiler and 
 cook for half an hour, stirring frequently. Remove 
 from the fire, and add three-fourths of a cupful of mo- 
 lasses, two table-spoonfuls of butter, one quart of cold 
 milk, one teaspoonful of salt, and one well-beaten egg. 
 Pour the pudding into a deep earthen dish, and bake 
 slowly for four hours. Serve with or without cream ; 
 at any rate, serve hot. It is especially nice served with 
 vanilla ice-cream. 
 
 * For this pudding use three quarts and a pint of milk, 
 a generous half-teacupful of butter, three table-spoonfuls 
 of Indian meal, one cupful and a half of molasses, one 
 table-spoonful of ginger, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, 
 and one teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Scald one pint of the milk. Wet the meal with a 
 little cold milk. Stir the boiling milk into it. Add the 
 butter, molasses, salt, and spice. Pour this into a large 
 dish, and put it into the oven. As soon as the pudding 
 begins to thicken, stir in thoroughly one quart of cold 
 milk. Add the other two quarts, a pint at a time, when 
 the pudding thickens and becomes crusted, and stir all 
 up from the bottom each time. .Bake from four to six 
 hours. Serve with maple sugar dissolved in cream, or 
 with hard sauce. Rose Terry Cooke. 
 
 Brown Pudding. 
 
 Use for this pudding a cupful of milk, one of molasses, 
 one of fine-chopped suet, three cupfuls and a quarter of 
 flour, one teaspoonful of soda, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
 
PUDDINGS. 629 
 
 the rind and juice of a lemon, one table-spoonful of cinna- 
 mon, and half a teaspoonful of clove. 
 
 Mix the molasses, suet, lemon, and spice. Dissolve 
 the soda in the milk, and add to the mixture. Stir well, 
 and then add the flour. When the mixture has been 
 beaten well, turn it into well-buttered moulds, and steam 
 for five hours. With the ingredients mentioned above, a 
 three-quart mould may be filled ; but if the family be 
 not a large one, it will be well to steam the pudding in 
 two moulds, using the contents of one on the first day 
 and those of the second mould five or six days later ; or 
 half the mixture may be put into a small mould, and to 
 the remainder may be added half a cupful of currants, 
 thus giving a rich fruit-pudding later in the week. 
 These puddings are always better the second than the 
 first day. Brown-bread tins are good moulds in which 
 to steam them, if there be no regular pudding-moulds in 
 the house. A rich wine or a lemon sauce should be served 
 with the pudding. 
 
 * Quaking Pudding. 
 
 The materials required are : a quart of milk, six eggs, 
 two table-spoonfuls of butter, one quart of stale bread, 
 cut in very thin slices, half a cupful of dried currants, 
 one pint of stoned raisins, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
 three table-spoonfuls of sugar, and one-fourth of a nut- 
 meg, grated. 
 
 Measure the bread after it has been cut, and pack it 
 rather solidly in a quart measure. Butter a three-quart 
 mould very thoroughly, and after sprinkling the bottom 
 and sides with the currants, lay the bread in the mould 
 in layers, sprinkling raisins over each layer. Beat to- 
 gether the eggs, sugar, salt, and nutmeg; then add the 
 milk. Pour this mixture over that in the mould. Set 
 away in a cold place for three hours, and at the end of 
 that time set the pudding in a steamer, and cook it for 
 
630 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 an hour and a quarter. At serving-time turn out on a 
 flat dish, and serve with a vanilla or rich wine sauce. 
 
 This pudding can be made with four eggs, and the 
 currants may be omitted. 
 
 Delicate Plum Pudding. 
 
 A pudding for eight or ten persons will require a cup- 
 ful and a half of powdered crackers, two pints and a 
 half of milk, one generous cupful of sugar, half a cupful 
 of molasses, two table-spoonfuls of butter, one cupful of 
 stoned raisins, one- third of a nutmeg, grated, and six eggs. 
 
 Heat the milk to the boiling-point, and pour it on the 
 crackers. Add the butter, and set away to cool. When 
 the mixture is cold, add the eggs, well beaten, and the 
 other ingredients. Butter a pudding-dish that will hold 
 about two quarts. Pour the mixture into the dish, and 
 place in a moderate oven. 
 
 When the pudding has been cooking for half an hour, 
 draw it to the front of the oven and stir it well, being 
 careful to distribute the raisins (which will have settled 
 to the bottom) through the pudding. Move the dish 
 back into the oven, and bake for an hour and a half 
 longer. The heat in the oven must be very moderate or 
 the pudding will burn. Serve with a creamy sauce. 
 
 Plum Pudding. 
 
 For this pudding there will be required three-quarters 
 of a pound of suet, chopped fine, one pound of sugar, one 
 pound of grated stale bread, one pound of stoned raisins, 
 one pound of currants, half a pint of milk, a gill of 
 brandy, a nutmeg, half a teaspoonful of cinnamon, half 
 a teaspoonful of mace, the rind and juice of a lemon, a 
 teaspoonful of salt, and nine eggs. 
 
 Mix all the ingredients except the eggs, which should 
 be beaten until light, and then added. Carefully butter 
 two two-quart melon moulds, and pour the mixture into 
 
PUDDINGS. 631 
 
 them. Steam for five hours. At serving-time turn out 
 on a flat dish, and pour half a gill of brandy or rum over 
 the puddings. Stick a twig of holly into the top of each, 
 and as the dishes are on the way to the table, say just 
 at the dining-room door, set fire to the liquor, so that 
 the puddings may be brought in blazing. Serve with 
 brandy sauce. 
 
 This kind of pudding may be made several weeks 
 before using. If it be made in advance, it should be 
 steamed for an hour and a half on the day on which it is 
 to form a part of the dinner. 
 
 French Pancakes. 
 
 The ingredients of these cakes are : eight eggs, one pint 
 of milk, half a pint of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, one 
 table-spoonful of melted butter, two table-spoonfuls of 
 sugar, and the grated yellow rind of a lemon. 
 
 Put in a bowl the flour, sugar, salt, and grated rind. 
 Separate the yolks of the eggs from the whites, and beat 
 the latter to a stiff froth. Now add the yolks, and beat 
 for a minute longer. Add the milk to the eggs. Next 
 pour about one-third of this mixture on the flour and 
 other ingredients, and beat until light and smooth ; then 
 add the remainder of the egg-and-milk mixture. Finally, 
 add the melted butter. 
 
 Heat and butter a frying-pan, and pour into it a thin 
 layer of the batter. Cook until a rich brown on one 
 side ; then spread over the cake a teaspoonful of melted 
 currant jelly. Roll up the cake, and turn it out on a hot 
 dish. Cook six cakes in this manner, and send them to 
 the table. Continue cooking and serving until all the 
 batter is used. 
 
 The fire must be very bright to get perfect pancakes. 
 Any kind of jelly may be used; or a light sprinkling 
 of sugar and nutmeg may be substituted for jelly. These 
 pancakes may be served as an entree or for dessert. 
 
632 MISS FARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 German Fritters. 
 
 Use some stale brioche (see chapter entitled " Special 
 Articles"), cut in strips three inches long, one inch wide, 
 and half an inch thick. With one dozen such pieces use 
 also a cupful of sugar, a cupful of water, the grated rind 
 of one orange and the juice of two, two eggs, and some 
 fine bread crumbs. 
 
 Boil the sugar, grated orange rind, and water together 
 for ten minutes ; then add the orange juice. Pour this 
 syrup, by spoonfuls, over the strips of brioche. When 
 all of it has been absorbed, beat the eggs in a soup-plate. 
 Dip the strips of brioche in the egg, and then roll them 
 in bread crumbs. Fry in fat for two minutes; then 
 drain, and serve very hot. 
 
 The syrup may be flavored with any fruit or spice one 
 likes, or a gill of wine may be added to it. 
 
 Stale sponge cake may be used instead of brioche, but 
 great care must be taken to prevent it from breaking 
 after being soaked in the syrup. 
 
 Peach Fritters a la Dauphine. 
 
 Roll some brioche paste about one-eighth of an inch 
 thick. Cut it into rounds with a plain or fluted cutter. 
 Put a teaspoonful of peach marmalade in the centre 
 of half the rounds. Wet the edges with the white of 
 an egg, beaten slightly. Put another round on top of 
 this, and press the edges together. When all are done, 
 cover them with a towel, and let them stand for ten or 
 fifteen minutes ; then place them in a fry ing-basket, being 
 careful not to crowd them, and fry in fat for four 
 minutes. Drain them, and serve hot with a syrup 
 flavored with fruit, wine, or spice. 
 
 Any kind of marmalade may be used, the fritters 
 taking the name of the fruit used. 
 
PUDDINGS. 633 
 
 Portuguese Fritters. 
 
 The materials needed are : half a cupful of rice, two 
 cnpfuls of milk, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a 
 teaspoonful of salt, one stick of cinnamon, one table- 
 spoonful of butter, six table-spoonfuls of orange marma- 
 lade, three eggs, and the batter for fruit fritters described 
 in the chapter on " Entrees." 
 
 Wash the rice, and then soak it in cold water for an 
 hour. Pour off the water, and put the rice, cinnamon, 
 and milk in the double-boiler. Place on the fire, and 
 cook for an hour and a half. At the end of that time 
 take out the cinnamon, and add the salt, butter, and mar- 
 malade. Beat the eggs till light, and stir them into the 
 dish. Butter a shallow cake-pan, and spread the mixture 
 in it, having it about half an inch thick. Put in a cold 
 place for an hour or more. 
 
 Make the fritter batter. Out the rice mixture into 
 three-and-a-half-inch squares, and cut each square into 
 two triangles. Dip these in the batter, and fry for three 
 minutes in boiling fat. Drain on brown paper, and 
 arrange on a warm dish. Sprinkle them with cinnamon 
 sugar, six table -spoonfuls of sugar and one of ground 
 cinnamon. Hold a hot salamander over .them to dissolve 
 the sugar, and serve at once. 
 
 SOUFFLES. 
 
 Great accuracy and care are required in preparing 
 souffles. The materials to combine are so few and the 
 work so simple that the inexperienced wonder that souf- 
 fles are not made more frequently, and that there ever 
 should be a failure. The truth is, the margin upon which 
 success or failure rests is so slight that it takes the most 
 careful use of materials and the most exact time for 
 cooking to bring about the desired result. If the 
 souffle cooks one minute too long, or is not served imme- 
 
634 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 diately after it is taken from the oven, it will be ruined. 
 An omelet souffle is more sensitive to over-cooking and 
 delay in serving than a souffle made with a foundation. 
 It will rise to two or three times its original size ; and if, 
 when it is done, it be taken instantly from the oven and 
 served at once, it will be found of the most delicate tex- 
 ture and flavor. But let it cook too long, or stand for a 
 few moments after coming from the oven, and its whole 
 condition will change. A souffle which was five or six 
 inches high will in this case shrink to less than an inch ; 
 will be of a grayish color, heavy and tough, and of a 
 disappointing flavor. It seems wonderful that a thing 
 of such lightness and beauty should be transformed so 
 quickly. A souffle made with a foundation will shrink 
 about one-third, but will not be so unpalatable as an 
 omelet souffle. 
 
 These drawbacks should not discourage the house- 
 keeper from trying to make this delicate dessert. Being 
 forewarned, she should be forearmed. It is always 
 better that the guests should wait five minutes, if need 
 be, for the souffle, than that the souffle should wait half 
 a minute for them. 
 
 The following rules for souffles will suffice, as changes 
 of flavor give most of the varieties. 
 
 Souffl6 Dishes. 
 
 As the souffle must be served in the dish in which it 
 has been baked, the dishes selected for this purpose 
 should be as dainty as possible. Silver dishes with 
 porcelain linings are good for this purpose, only the time 
 occupied in putting the souffle into the silver dish and 
 adjusting the rim is apt to prove fatal to the souffle, 
 unless the work be done by an expert. There is a pretty 
 fluted pudding-dish, with a plain dish fitting into it, 
 which can be used to advantage. Small paper cases 
 are really the most satisfactory things to use. They 
 
PUDDINGS. 635 
 
 can be bought where confectioners' supplies are sold. 
 Pursell, on Broadway, near Twentieth Street, New 
 York, keeps a good supply. There are many shapes, 
 but the square and round are the most useful and the 
 cheapest. 
 
 Paper Cases, Empty and Filled. 
 
 Small individual souffle dishes come in fire-proof 
 French china. They are very dainty, and when one 
 considers that they can be used constantly for years, are 
 not expensive, unless decorated. They are sold by 
 Louis & Conger, 1340 Broadway, New York. 
 
 Vanilla Omelet Souffle^ 
 
 Beat together until light the yolks of two eggs and two 
 generous table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Add half a 
 teaspoonful of vanilla extract, and beat a little longer. 
 Now beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff, dry froth. 
 Stir this into the yolks and sugar, doing the work gently. 
 Turn the mixture into a buttered souffle dish, and 
 sprinkle with powdered sugar. Bake in a moderate oven 
 for ten minutes, and serve the instant it comes from the 
 oven. Or the preparation may be baked in small 
 souffle cases, in which case they will cook in eight 
 minutes. 
 
 Omelet Souffle^ 
 
 Break six eggs, and put the whites into one bowl and 
 the yolks into another. To the latter add three table- 
 spoonfuls of powdered sugar, the grated rind of half an 
 orange, and one-third of a saltspoonful of salt. Beat 
 
636 MISS PARLORS KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 this mixture until it is very light and thick. Now beat 
 the whites to a stiff, dry froth, and stir them gently into 
 the other beaten mixture. Turn the eggs into a buttered 
 souffle dish, heaping them in the centre. Sprinkle with 
 powdered sugar. Bake in a moderate oven for twelve 
 minutes. Or, the preparation may be baked in buttered 
 souffle cases. Fill the cases about two-thirds of the way 
 to the brim, and place in a shallow pan. The souffle 
 will bake in eight minutes in a moderate oven. 
 
 Lemon, vanilla, almond, or some other flavor may be 
 substituted for orange rind. 
 
 Lemon Souffle^ 
 
 The materials required are : one pint of milk, half a 
 cupful of flour, four table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, five eggs, and the grated rind of a lemon. 
 
 Put half the milk and the rind of the lemon on the 
 stove in the double-boiler. Mix the other half with the 
 flour, and stir the mixture into the boiling milk. Add 
 the salt, and cook for ten minutes, stirring frequently. 
 
 Beat together the sugar and yolks of the eggs. When 
 the hot preparation has been cooked for ten minutes, pour 
 it on the second mixture ; add the flavor, stir well, and 
 set away to cool. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff, 
 dry froth. Stir them lightly into the cool mixture. Pour 
 this preparation into a buttered souffle* dish, and bake 
 in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. Serve 
 instantly. 
 
 The souffle* may be flavored with a scant teaspoonful 
 of vanilla or lemon extract; or the grated rind of an 
 orange or lemon may be cooked with the milk and flour. 
 
 Fruit Souffles. 
 
 Rub through a sieve any kind of preserved fruit 
 that is almost free of liquid. Make a cooked prepara- 
 tion, as for the lemon souffle. When this is cold, stir 
 
PUDDINGS. 637 
 
 in half a pint of the strained fruit. Beat the whites 
 of eight eggs to a stiff, dry froth. Stir this into the 
 cooked preparation. Bake in a moderate oven for half 
 an hour. 
 
 Another way to make a fruit souffle is to put a thin 
 layer of cooked and sweetened fruit on the bottom of the. 
 dish, and fill up with the souffle mixture. This is par- 
 ticularly nice if strawberries or raspberries be used. 
 
 Rum Omelet. 
 
 Use four eggs, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, a salt- 
 spoonful of salt, a table-spoonful of butter, three table- 
 spoonfuls of rum, and three table-spoonfuls of milk. 
 
 Warm a large omelet-pan. Beat the whites of the 
 eggs rather light. Add the salt, sugar, yolks, and milk 
 to them, and beat well. Put the butter in the prnelet- 
 pan, and place on the hottest part of the range. Pour 
 in the egg mixture, and shake vigorously until it begins 
 to thicken ; then fold, and turn on a warm dish. With 
 a spoon pour the rum over the omelet, letting it run down 
 on the dish. Just before the dish is placed on the table, 
 touch a lighted match to the liquor. Be sure that the : 
 sulphur is burned from the match before using it. 
 
 Orange Omelet. 
 
 This is made of four eggs, five table-spoonfuls of 
 sugar, a saltspoonful of salt, two oranges, and two table- 
 spoonfuls of butter. 
 
 Grate lightly the rind of one of the oranges on one 
 table-spoonful of sugar. Pare the oranges, and cut them 
 in thin small slices, cutting from the sides, not across, 
 the orange. Sprinkle two table-spoonfuls of sugar on 
 the sliced oranges. Beat the whites of the eggs to a 
 stiff froth. Beat into them the table-spoonful of sugar 
 mixed with the orange rind, the salt, and yolks of the 
 eggs. Add also two table-spoonfuls of the orange juice. 
 
MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Put the butter in a large omelet-pan, and on the stove, 
 and when it becomes hot, add the egg mixture. Cook 
 for half a minute, shaking the pan well. Spread the 
 orange in the centre. Roll from both ends toward the 
 centre; then fold over, and turn upon a warm dish. 
 Sprinkle with the remaining spoonful of sugar, and place 
 in the oven for two minutes. Serve at once. 
 
 Omelet a la C61estine. 
 
 Use four eggs, three table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, 
 a saltspoonful of salt, two table-spoonfuls of butter, and 
 four table-spoonfuls of apricot jam or preserved straw- 
 berries or raspberries. 
 
 Put a small omelet-pan on the stove, where it will heat 
 slowly. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth. 
 Beat the salt, one table-spoonful of the sugar, and the 
 yolks of the eggs into the whites. 
 
 Put half a table-spoonful of the butter in the warm 
 omelet-pan, and draw the pan forward where it will get 
 hot. Pour one-fourth of the egg mixture into it, and 
 shake over the fire for about fifteen seconds. Spread a 
 table-spoonful of the preserve in the centre of the 
 omelet ; then fold, and turn out on a warm dish. Make 
 four omelets in this manner, putting them side by side 
 on the same dish. Sprinkle with sugar, and place in 
 the oven for two minutes. Serve at once. 
 
 COLD PUDDINGS. 
 
 Marquise Pudding. 
 
 This is made of one small can of pineapple, one can of 
 pears, half a pound of French candied cherries, one gill 
 of Maraschino, one pint of sugar, and the whites of two 
 eggs. 
 
 Cut the cherries into fourths, and soak them for sev- 
 
PUDDINGS. 639 
 
 eral hours in the Maraschino, over night, if there be 
 time. Eub the pears through a puree-sieve. After re- 
 moving the hearts from the pineapple, chop the fruit 
 very fine. Put the sugar on to boil with half a pint 
 of water, and boil rapidly for ten minutes. Pour half 
 of this syrup on the pears, and stir well. Let the 
 remainder of the syrup boil five minutes longer. Beat 
 the whites of the eggs to a stiff, dry froth, and beat the 
 hot syrup into them, pouring it in a thin stream, and 
 beating all the time. Set this me'ringue in a cool place. 
 
 Freeze the puree of pears for ten minutes. Open the 
 freezer and add the pineapple, cherries, and meringue ; 
 then freeze for fifteen minutes longer. Take out the 
 beater, and with a strong long-handled spoon work 
 the pudding, that the fruit may be evenly distributed. 
 Pack the pudding smoothly in a mould, or pack it in 
 the freezer. Draw off the water, and add more salt and 
 ice. Set away in a cold place for two or three hours. 
 Serve with iced Madeira sauce poured around it. 
 
 Iced Rice a rimpe>atrice. 
 
 For this pudding there will be required a scant tea- 
 cupful of rice, two quarts of cream, one pound of French 
 candied fruit (half the quantity to be cherries), one pint 
 of sugar, the whites of three eggs, five table-spoonfuls of 
 Maraschino, five of sherry, the grated rind and the juice 
 of one orange, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of salt, and 
 half a gill of water. 
 
 Wash the rice in three waters, and put it in a stew- 
 pan with one quart of cold water. Place on the fire, 
 and when it boils up, pour off the water. Now put the 
 rice and grated rind of the orange in the double-boiler. 
 
 Put all the cream in a large bowl, and whip and skim 
 until there are three generous quarts of the froth. Put 
 the unwhipped cream with the rice. Cover the boiler, 
 and place on the fire. Cook for one hour and a half. 
 
640 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Put the whipped cream in a cool place. Cut the can- 
 died fruit into small bits, and soak it in the Maraschino. 
 When the rice has been cooking for one hour, add the 
 salt and three gills of the sugar j and when it is done, 
 set away to cool. 
 
 Put the half-gill of water and the remaining gill of 
 sugar in a small saucepan, and boil for fifteen minutes. 
 Add the orange juice, and boil for ten minutes longer, 
 being careful that it does not burn. Do not stir the 
 sugar and water while on the fire. Take up a drop of 
 the syrup on the point of a skewer, and roll it between 
 the thumb and forefinger. If it forms a soft ball it is 
 done. 
 
 While the sugar is boiling beat the whites of the eggs 
 to a stiff, dry froth. Beat the hot syrup into this, pour- 
 ing it in a thin stream into the beaten whites. When 
 thoroughly beaten, set away in a cool place. 
 
 When the cooked rice is cool, add to it the sherry and 
 all the liquid cream that is drained from the whipped 
 cream that was set away. Put the rice in the freezer, 
 and beat for twenty minutes. When this time has passed, 
 take the cover from the freezer, and add the fruit and 
 Maraschino, beating it into the frozen mixture. Next 
 beat in the me'ringue, and finally the whipped cream. 
 Pack this in a mould, which should be surrounded with 
 salt and ice. Let it stand for two or three hours. 
 
 At serving-time dip the mould in tepid water. Wipe 
 carefully, and turn the pudding out on a flat dish. Serve 
 an iced orange sauce with it. 
 
 This pudding is enough for eighteen or twenty people. 
 Of course, half, or even one-third, of the quantity may be 
 made for a small family. 
 
 Frozen Rice Pudding. 
 
 This calls for half a cupful of rice, a quart of cold 
 water, three oranges, a quart of milk, a pint of cream, 
 
PUDDINGS. 641 
 
 two small cupfuls of sugar, and one-eighth of a teaspoon- 
 ful of salt. 
 
 Wash the rice carefully, and put it on the fire, with 
 the water, in a small saucepan. As soon as it begins to 
 boil, pour off the water, and add the milk and grated 
 rind of the oranges. Cook for an hour in a double- 
 boiler ; then add the sugar, and cook half an hour longer. 
 Remove from the fire, and after adding the salt, set away 
 to cool. When cold, add the juice of the oranges, and 
 also the cream, whipped to a froth. Freeze the same 
 as ice-cream, and serve with iced orange sauce. 
 
 Four table-spoonfuls of wine, or one table-spoonful of 
 either lemon or vanilla extract, may be substituted for 
 the orange juice, the flavoring being added when the 
 pudding is cold and before it is frozen. 
 
 Glazed Rice Pudding. 
 
 This pudding will require half a cupful of rice, one 
 pint of milk, two quarts of whipped cream (about a pint 
 of the unwhipped cream), one pint of sugar, three eggs, 
 the grated rind and the juice of an orange, a table-spoon- 
 ful of salt, and salt and ice for freezing. 
 
 Wash the rice in three waters, and soak it in cold 
 water for half an hour. At the end of that time put it 
 in a large stew-pan with two quarts of boiling water. 
 Boil rapidly until the grains of rice are soft, which will 
 be in about twenty-five minutes. The stew-pan must be 
 uncovered all the time the rice is cooking. Now turn 
 the rice into a colander, and as soon as well drained, 
 turn it into a dish and pour over it a syrup made as 
 follows : 
 
 When the rice is put on to boil, put into a small sauce- 
 pan one cupful of sugar, one of hot water, and two-thirds 
 of the grated rind of the orange. Boil this for twenty- 
 five minutes ; then add the juice of the orange. This 
 syrup must be hot when poured over the rice. 
 
 41 
 
642 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Now set the rice away to cool. Put all the milk 
 except half a gill into the double-boiler. Add the re- 
 mainder of the grated orange rind, and place on the 
 fire. Beat the eggs and the remaining cupful of sugar 
 together until very light. Add the half -gill of cold milk. 
 Pour the boiling milk on this mixture, stirring all the 
 time. Turn into the double-boiler, and cook on the fire 
 for five minutes, stirring constantly ; then put away to 
 cool. Pack a plain mould in salt and ice, the same as 
 for a mousse, as described in the chapter on " Dessert." 
 When the rice and custard both are cold, mix the whipped 
 cream with the custard. Put a layer of this mixture on 
 the bottom of the mould ; then sprinkle in a layer of 
 rice. Continue this until all the materials are used. 
 Cover the freezer with an old blanket or a piece of 
 carpeting, and set in a cool place for two hours or more. 
 At serving-time dip the mould in tepid water, and then 
 wipe it. Turn out the pudding, and serve at once. 
 
 Chantilly Pudding. 
 
 This pudding is made in two parts, the cake for the 
 border, and the cream for the centre. For the cake use 
 five eggs, one cupful of powdered sugar, a cupful of flour, 
 the grated rind and the juice of one orange, and one tea- 
 spoonful of baking-powder. Mix the baking-powder with 
 the flour. Beat the yolks of the eggs .and the sugar 
 together until the mixture is light. Add the orange juice 
 and grated rind, and beat five minutes longer. Beat the 
 whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and stir lightly into 
 the other ingredients. Now add the flour, stirring it in 
 lightly. Turn the mixture into a deep border mould, and 
 bake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes. On 
 taking from the oven, let it partially cool in the mould. 
 Turn it out on a flat dish. Spread half a pint of straw- 
 berry preserve on the inside of the cake, and set the 
 dish away in a cool place. 
 
PUDDINGS. 643 
 
 To make the cream one needs three quarts of whipped 
 cream, a quart of the unwhipped cream will give this 
 quantity, half a package of gelatine, a cupful of water, 
 four table-spoonfuls of wine, and a generous half-cupful 
 of sugar. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in half of the water for two hours. 
 Whip the cream, and put it in a pan which has been 
 placed in another containing ice-water. Sprinkle the 
 wine and sugar over it. Pour half a cupful of boiling 
 water on the soaked gelatine. Stir until all the gelatine 
 is dissolved. Strain this liquid over the cream. Stir 
 
 Chantilly Pudding. 
 
 from the bottom of the pan until the mixture is so thick 
 that it will hardly flow. Instantly turn it into the cen- 
 tre of the cake. Place the dish in the refrigerator for 
 an hour or more, if there be an abundance of time. It 
 must be kept in a cold place for at least twenty minutes, 
 and the longer the time the better. 
 
 When strawberries are in season, the dish is improved 
 in appearance if at the time of serving the cream be 
 dotted with ripe berries. Candied cherries make a hand- 
 some decoration. Easpberry preserve, or indeed any 
 small fruit, may be used instead of the strawberries. 
 
 The cream filling makes a delicious cream for charlotte 
 russe. 
 
 Cold Cabinet Pudding. 
 
 This is made of one quart of milk, the yolks of six 
 eggs, half a package of gelatine, one dozen macaroons, 
 
644 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 half a dozen lady -fingers, one-quarter of a pound of French 
 candied cherries, two ounces each of apricots and angelica, 
 four table-spoonfuls of Maraschino, half a cupful of sugar, 
 half a cupful of cold water, one teaspoonful of vanilla 
 extract, and one-third of a teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Cut the cherries and apricots into bits. Cut the an- 
 gelica in large pieces suitable for decorating. Put all 
 the fruit in a cup, and pour the Maraschino over it. 
 Soak the gelatine for two hours in the cold water. Beat 
 the egg yolks and the sugar together. Add half a pint 
 of the milk to them. Put the remainder of the milk on 
 the fire in the double-boiler. When it boils, stir in the 
 egg-mixture. Cook until it begins to thicken, stirring 
 all the while. It will take about five minutes. On tak- 
 ing it from the fire, add the soaked gelatine and the salt. 
 Place the boiler in cold water, and stir the custard until 
 it is almost cool ; then add the vanilla. 
 
 Put a round or oval mould in a pan, and surround it 
 with pounded ice. Decorate the bottom with angelica. 
 
 Cold Cabinet Pudding. 
 
 Dip pieces of cherry and apricot in the cool custard, and 
 dot the sides of the mould with them. With a pastry- 
 brush put a thin layer of the custard on the sides of the 
 mould. Put some of the custard (a spoonful at a time) 
 in the bottom of the mould. It should be about one- 
 third of an 'Inch thick. When this is cool, dip some 
 of the lady-fingers in the custard, and arrange them in 
 
* 
 
 PUDDINGS. 645 
 
 the mould. Sprinkle them with some of the candied 
 fruit. Now put in about a gill of the custard, but 
 only a spoonful at a time. Let this stand until almost 
 stiff ; then put in a layer of macaroons which have first 
 been dipped in the custard. Sprinkle with fruit, and 
 add the custard as before. When this layer is almost 
 firm, repeat the process ; and as soon as all the materials 
 have been used, put the pudding in a cold room for a 
 few hours. 
 
 The custard must be kept cold, but liquid, through- 
 out the process of putting the pudding together. If it 
 begins to congeal, place the basin in a pan of hot water 
 for about a minute, and stir the custard until it becomes 
 liquid again. 
 
 When it is time to serve the pudding, take it from the 
 ice. Dip the mould in tepid water for about twenty 
 seconds. Wipe it, and see that the pudding does not 
 cling to the sides. Turn on a flat dish. Serve chocolate 
 sauce in a separate dish. 
 
 Sweet Pur6e of Chestnuts, with Whipped 
 Cream. 
 
 For this dessert use thirty French chestnuts, half a 
 cupful of sugar, one gill of water, and three pints of 
 whipped and drained cream, flavored with one table- 
 spoonful of wine and two of sugar. 
 
 Shell and blanch the chestnuts. Put them in a stew- 
 pan with enough boiling water to cover them, and boil 
 for half an hour. Drain them; then pound to powder, 
 and rub through a sieve. Put in a stew-pan with the 
 sugar and water, and cook for ten minutes, stirring all 
 the time. . If the puree be firm at the end of ten min- 
 utes, take from the fire ; but if not, cook until it is. Now 
 put a little of the mixture in a coarse puree-sieve and 
 rub through, being careful not to press the mixture down 
 as it comes through. Continue this until all has been 
 
 .' 
 
646 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 rubbed through. Heap this puree, in a circle on a dish, 
 and set away in a cool place until serving-time. When 
 ready to serve, heap the whipped and flavored cream in 
 the centre. 
 
 Chestnut Pudding. 
 
 For this pudding use one package of gelatine, thirty 
 French chestnuts, two ounces of candieH cherries, one 
 cupful of pineapple, fresh or canned, chopped fine, 
 one cupful of sugar, two of water, the yolks of four eggs, 
 one and a half pints of cream, three table-spoonfuls of 
 Maraschino. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in one cupful of the cold water for 
 two hours. Shell and blanch the chestnuts. Put them 
 in a stew-pan with enough boiling water to cover them. 
 Cover, and cook for half an hour. Drain off the water at 
 the end of that time, and, putting the nuts into a mortar, 
 pound them fine. Put into each of two stew-pans half a 
 cupful of sugar and half a cupful of water. Boil rapidly 
 for ten minutes ; then add the chestnuts to the syrup in 
 one pan, and the pineapple and candied cherries, cut in 
 small pieces, to that in the other. Simmer for ten min- 
 utes, being careful not to burn. 
 
 Put all but a gill of the cream into the double-boiler, 
 and place on the fire. Beat the yolks of the eggs light, 
 and add the cold cream to them. Stir this mixture into 
 the hot cream, and cook for three minutes, stirring all 
 the time. Now add the soaked gelatine, and stir for 
 half a minute. Take from the fire, and add the chestnut 
 mixture. Place the basin in a pan of ice-water, and stir 
 until the mixture begins to thicken ; then add the cherry 
 and pineapple mixture, and also the Maraschino. Mix 
 well, and pour into a large mould that has been rinsed 
 in cold water. Set in the refrigerator for three or four 
 hours. Serve with whipped cream flavored with sugar 
 and wine. 
 
PUDDINGS. 647 
 
 Orleans Pudding. 
 
 Use one pint of milk, two quarts of whipped cream, 
 a pint and a half of stale sponge cake, one gill of sherry, 
 the juice of a lemon, the juice of an orange, one-fourth 
 of a pound of French candied fruit, half a cupful of 
 sugar, half a package of gelatine, and half a cupful of 
 cold water. 
 
 Soak the gviatine in the water for two hours. Pour 
 the wine and fruit juice over the cake. Cut the candied 
 fruit into bits. Sprinkle a two-quart mould with some of 
 the fruit, and put the remainder with the cake. Put the 
 milk on to boil. When it becomes hot, add the gelatine 
 and sugar. Take the boiler from the fire, and place it in 
 a pan of cold water. Stir frequently until the mixture 
 begins to thicken ; then add the whipped cream. When 
 this is well mixed, add the soaked cake and fruit. Pour 
 this preparation into the mould ; and after closing the 
 mould, pack it in salt and ice. Let the pudding stand 
 for two hours or more. Serve with two quarts of whipped 
 cream, flavored with two table-spoonfuls of powdered 
 sugar and two table-spoonfuls of sherry. Or any of the 
 iced sauces may be used. 
 
 Orange Snow Pudding. 
 
 Use half a package of gelatine, three gills of orange 
 juice, a generous cupful of sugar, three gills of water, 
 and the whites of six eggs. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in one gill of cold water for two 
 hours. At the end of that time pour two gills of boil- 
 ing water on it. Add the sugar, and place the bowl in a 
 saucepan of boiling water. Stir until the sugar and gela- 
 tine are fully dissolved. Add the orange juice, and strain 
 into a large bowl. Put away to cool ; and when cool, 
 add the unbeaten whites of the eggs. Place the bowl in 
 a pan of ice-water, and beat the mixture until it is white 
 
648 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 and thick. Pour it into a mould, and set away to harden. 
 Serve with custard sauce made as follows : ' 
 
 Sauce. Use a pint and a gill of milk, one-third of a 
 cupful of sugar, the grated yellow rind of one orange, 
 and half a saltspoonful of salt. 
 
 Put one pint of the milk into the double-boiler, and 
 grate the rind of the orange into it. Place on the fire. 
 Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar together. Add 
 the gill of cold milk to them. Pour the hot milk on 
 this mixture, and stir well. Keturn to the double-boiler, 
 and cook for five minutes, stirring all the time. Add 
 the salt, and set away to cool. 
 
 Imperial Pudding. 
 
 There will be needed half a cupful of rice, a generous 
 pint of milk, a cupful of sugar, four table-spoonfuls of 
 wine, half a teaspoonful of salt, two quarts and a pint of 
 whipped cream, and half a box of gelatine, soaked for 
 two hours in half a cupful of cold water. 
 
 Wash the rice, and put it on to boil in a quart of cold 
 water ; and when it begins to boil, pour off all the water. 
 Add the pint of milk, and put into the double-boiler ; 
 and after an hour's cooking, add the gelatine, sugar, salt, 
 and wine. Place in a basin of ice-water, and stir until 
 cold ; then add the whipped cream, stirring well. Poui 
 into moulds, and set away to harden. About one hour 
 will be required. 
 
 When you are ready to serve the pudding, dip the 
 moulds into warm water, to loosen the pudding from the 
 sides ; and after turning out upon a large flat dish, heap 
 strawberry sauce around it. 
 
 The rind and juice of two oranges may be substituted 
 for the wine. Cook the grated rind with the rice and 
 milk. Add the juice to the cooked mixture. 
 
PUDDINGS. 649 
 
 Silver-and-Gold Pudding. 
 
 For this pudding there will be required ten eggs, two 
 quarts of milk, half a teaspoonful of salt, three-quarters 
 of a cupful of sugar, two teaspoonfuls of vanilla extract, 
 and one scant table-spoonful of butter. 
 
 Butter a three-pint mould. Separate the whites of 
 the eggs from the yolks, being careful not to have a par- 
 ticle of yolk with the whites. Put one-third of the 
 sugar and one table-spoonful of milk with the whites, 
 and beat the mixture with a spoon until it breaks readily 
 when poured from the spoon ; then add a quart of milk, 
 a teaspoonful of vanilla extract, and one-fourth of a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and after blending thoroughly, pour the 
 mixture through a fine strainer into the mould. 
 
 Set the mould in a pan, and surround it with hot 
 water enough to reach almost to the top of the mould. 
 Place in a moderate oven for about three-quarters of an 
 hour. The water in the pan should never boil. Try 
 the custard by running the blade of a knife into the 
 centre ; for if the blade be clean when withdrawn, the 
 pudding may be removed from the oven, but if there be 
 any milky substance clinging to it, further cooking will 
 be required. At any rate, when the custard is cooked, 
 set it where it will get exceedingly cold. 
 
 While the pudding is cooking, make a soft custard of 
 the materials that remained; and also cool this. At 
 serving-time turn the baked custard into a flat glass dish, 
 and pour the soft custard around it. 
 
 This is a good pudding for Sunday, as it is all the 
 better for being made a day before it is served. 
 
 Sunset Pudding. 
 
 This is an elegant dish. The ingredients are : one- 
 third of a box of Cox's gelatine, four sheets of pink isin- 
 glass, two lemons, three gills of sherry, three of sugar, 
 and one quart of water. 
 
650 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Break the isinglass into bits, and put it in a bowl with 
 one gill of cold water. Put the gelatine in another bowl, 
 also containing a gill of cold water. Let both the isin- 
 glass and gelatine soak for three or four hours. At the 
 end of that time have ready a pint and a half of boiling 
 water, and pour half into each bowl, stirring until the 
 gelatine and isinglass are dissolved. Now put into each 
 bowl half of the lemon juice, sugar, and wine. Stir until 
 the sugar becomes dissolved; then strain the liquids 
 through a napkin into separate large bowls ; and after 
 placing the bowls in pans of ice-water, stir their contents 
 occasionally until they become cool. 
 
 Now begin to beat the mixtures, alternately, stirring 
 well from the sides and bottom of the bowls. When 
 both have become so thick that they will pour from a 
 spoon in a thick stream, turn them into a three-pint 
 mould in this manner : first put two large spoonfuls 
 of the pink liquid in the centre of the mould ; then pour 
 in all the light-colored mixture; finally, pour in the 
 remainder of the pink mixture. 
 
 Put the mould in a refrigerator in order that its con- 
 tents may become hardened. At serving-time dip the 
 mould in warm water, and as soon as the pudding becomes 
 loosened at the sides, wipe the mould and turn out the 
 pudding on a large flat dish. Pour around it a pint of 
 soft custard that has been flavored with vanilla. 
 
 Alpine Pudding. 
 
 This pudding is supposed to represent ice, snow, and 
 the thawing ice and snow. It is made of half a box of 
 gelatine, one cupful of sugar, half a cupful of lemon 
 juice, half a cupful of wine, half a cupful of cold water, 
 one cupful and a half of boiling water, and the whites 
 of three eggs. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in the cold water for two hours or 
 more ; then pour the boiling water upon the soaked gela- 
 
PUDDINGS. 661 
 
 tine, and stir for half a minute. Add the sugar, lemon 
 juice, and wine, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. 
 Strain the liquid through a napkin. 
 
 Beat the whites of the eggs to a light but not a dry 
 froth, and add them to the strained liquid. Place the 
 bowl containing the preparation in a basin of ice-water, 
 and beat for about five minutes. When the mixture 
 begins to cool, as it should in about ten minutes, stir 
 it frequently until it thickens slightly ; then turn it into 
 a mould, and set in an ice-chest to harden. About two 
 hours will be needed to harden the mixture sufficiently. 
 
 The special point to be attained in making an Alpine 
 pudding is to have the egg whites partially separate 
 from the jelly, so that when the pudding is turned out 
 there shall be clear jelly on top and a rather white 
 sponge at the bottom. This result is obtained by pour- 
 ing the mixture into the mould as soon as it begins to 
 thicken. But care must be taken to mix enough jelly 
 with the whites to give them flavor and body. At serv- 
 ing-time dip the mould in warm water, wipe it, and then 
 turn the contents out on a large flat dish. Pour custard 
 sauce around the pudding. 
 
 Sauce. For one pint of sauce use a pint of milk, two 
 eggs, besides the three yolks left from the pudding, one- 
 third of a cupful of sugar, one-eighth of a teaspoonful 
 of salt, and half a teaspoonful of vanilla. 
 
 Beat the eggs, sugar, and salt together. Add half a 
 cupful of the milk, and put the remainder on the stove 
 in a double-boiler. When it begins to boil, pour it over 
 the egg mixture, and stir well. Put the mixture in the 
 double-boiler, and cook, stirring all the while, until it 
 thickens, say for about five minutes. Take the sauce 
 from the fire, and pour it into a bowl or pitcher. Add 
 the vanilla extract, and stir the sauce for a few minutes. 
 Place the dish in a pan of cold water, and stir the con- 
 tents occasionally until they become cool. 
 
652 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Pineapple Pudding. 
 
 Use half a package of gelatine, the yolks of six eggs, 
 three cupfuls of milk, one cupful of sugar, three cupfuls 
 of grated pineapple, and one-fourth of a teaspoonful of 
 salt. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in half a cupful of the cold milk for 
 two hours. At the end of that time put two cupfuls of 
 milk into the double-boiler, and on the stove. Beat 
 together the sugar, salt, and yolks of the eggs. Add to 
 this mixture the remaining half-cupful of cold milk. 
 Now stir into the boiling milk the pineapple, gelatine, 
 and egg mixture. Cook for four minutes, stirring all 
 the while. Take from the fire, and stir in cold water 
 for five minutes ; then turn into a mould that has beer, 
 rinsed in cold water. Set away in a cold place for five 
 or six hours. 
 
 Strawberry Pudding. 
 
 In making this pudding one combines a cupful of 
 sifted flour, two cupfuls of sugar, a teaspoonful of 
 baking-powder, four eggs, the juice of a lemon, a quart 
 of strawberries, and two quarts of whipped cream (a 
 pint of cream in the ordinary state makes two quarts 
 when whipped). 
 
 Beat together a cupful of the sugar, the lemon juice, 
 and the yolks of the eggs. Beat the whites to a stiff 
 froth, and add them to the yolks and sugar. Mix the 
 baking-powder and flour, and sift upon the liquid mix- 
 ture; then stir gently. Lightly butter a deep round 
 pan, and, pouring the mixture into it, bake for thirty- 
 five minutes in a moderate oven. 
 
 While the cake is baking, pick over and crush the 
 strawberries. Add the second cupful of sugar to them, 
 and set away in a cool place. When the cake is baked 
 and has become cool, place it in a large pudding-dish and 
 pour the strawberries over it. At serving-time heap the 
 whipped cream upon the fruit. 
 
PUDDINGS. 653 
 
 In making this pudding it is desirable to have a great 
 deal of juice when the fruit is emptied upon the cake. 
 Stale sponge cake will answer for the pudding. When 
 raspberries are in season they may be substituted for the 
 strawberries ; but as they are sweeter, half a cupful of 
 sugar will be enough to sprinkle over them. They 
 should not be crushed. 
 
 Velvet Pudding. 
 
 There will be required one pint of water, half a gill of 
 milk, one lemon, three table-spoonfuls of corn-starch, 
 half a cupful of granulated sugar, two table-spoonfuls of 
 powdered sugar, two eggs, half a teaspoonf ul of salt, and 
 two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
 
 Take one gill of the water to mix with the corn-starch, 
 and heat the rest to the boiling-point ; then stir in the 
 corn-starch, and cook for ten minutes, stirring occasion- 
 ally. Stir the lemon juice and grated rind into the 
 cooked mixture. 
 
 Beat the butter, granulated sugar, and egg yolks 
 together. Add the milk, and stir the mixture into the 
 cooked corn-starch. Turn into a pudding-dish, and bake 
 in a slow oven for half an hour. 
 
 Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and then 
 with a spoon beat in the powdered sugar. Spread this 
 over the pudding, and cook for twenty minutes with the 
 oven door open. Set away to cool before serving. 
 
 The quantities given make a pudding large enough 
 for five or six persons. They may be increased one-half 
 if a larger pudding be desired. 
 
 Queen of Puddings. 
 
 The materials are : six eggs, one quart of milk, one 
 pint of bread crumbs, half a teaspoonful of salt, half a 
 cupful of granulated sugar, six table-spoonfuls of pow- 
 
654 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 dered sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, and one cupful 
 of strawberry or raspberry preserve. 
 
 Soak the bread and milk together for two hours. 
 Mash the bread fine. Beat the sugar, salt, and yolks of 
 the eggs together, and add to the bread and milk. Pour 
 this mixture into a pudding-dish that will hold two quarts. 
 Bake slowly for three-quarters of an hour. Take from 
 the oven, and spread the preserve over it. 
 
 Grate the lemon rind on the powdered sugar. - Beat 
 the whites of the eggs to a stiff, dry froth. Remove the 
 beater, and add the powdered sugar and lemon rind, a 
 spoonful at a time. Beat this in with a silver spoon. 
 Spread this meringue on the pudding, and return the 
 dish to the oven, to bake for twenty minutes with the 
 door open. Serve hot or cold. 
 
 * Cream M6ringue Pudding. 
 
 Use for this pudding one quart of milk, four eggs, four 
 table-spoonfuls of flour, three-fourths of a cupful of 
 powdered sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, and one tea- 
 spoonful of vanilla extract. 
 
 Break the eggs, and beat well all the yolks and one 
 of the whites. Add the milk and all but three table- 
 spoonfuls of the sugar. Put the flour and salt into 
 another bowl, and pour upon them four table-spoonfuls of 
 the egg-and-milk mixture. Beat until very smooth, and 
 gradually add the rest of the egg-and-milk mixture. 
 Turn into a double-boiler, first being careful to see 
 that the water in the lower kettle is boiling. Stir the 
 mixture until it becomes a smooth thick cream, say 
 for about a quarter of an hour. Add the vanilla extract, 
 and rub the mixture through a strainer into a pudding- 
 dish. Now beat the three reserved whites of eggs to a 
 stiff froth, and gradually beat into them the three re- 
 maining table-spoonfuls of sugar. Spread this mixture 
 rather roughly over the pudding. Place in a moderate 
 
PUDDINGS. 655 
 
 oven, and cook for twenty minutes with the door open. 
 The pudding should be served cold. 
 
 Strawberry M6ringue. 
 
 This pudding will require the whites of seven eggs, 
 seven table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and half a cupful of strawberry pre- 
 serve. 
 
 Beat the eggs to a stiff froth, and then with a spoon 
 gradually beat the powdered sugar and the salt into the 
 froth. Butter a two-quart pudding-dish, and drop spoon- 
 fuls of the meringue upon the bottom of the dish. Now 
 drop in the preserve by half-spoonfuls. Continue put- 
 ting in these alternate layers until the full quantity of 
 both materials has been used. Bake in a moderate 
 oven for twenty-five minutes. Serve very cold with 
 whipped cream. 
 
 * Pineapple Cream Pudding. 
 
 For six or eight persons use one pineapple of medium 
 size, one pint of milk, three eggs, three-fourths of a cup- 
 ful of sugar, two table-spoonfuls of flour, one-fourth of a 
 teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of vanilla 
 extract. 
 
 Put the milk in the double-boiler, and on the fire. 
 Beat together, until light and smooth, the sugar, flour, 
 salt, and eggs. Stir this mixture into the boiling milk, 
 and cook for fifteen minutes, stirring frequently; then 
 take from the fire, and turn the mixture into a bowl. 
 Beat the vanilla extract into the mixture, and set the 
 bowl away in a cool place. 
 
 Pare the pineapple, and grate it into a deep dish. 
 When the cream becomes cool, stir the pineapple into 
 it; then place the pudding in the refrigerator for an 
 hour or more, to chill it thoroughly. Turn into a glass 
 dish, and serve. 
 
656 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Banana Cream Pudding. 
 
 Pare and slice three ripe bananas, and stir them into a 
 cream made the same as for pineapple cream pudding. 
 
 * Peach Cream Pudding. 
 
 Make this the same as the pineapple pudding, only 
 substitute a quart of pared and sliced ripe peaches for 
 the grated pineapple. 
 
 * Bird's-nest Pudding. 
 
 This calls for half a dozen apples of medium size, a 
 quart of milk, half a nutmeg, five eggs, one cupful and 
 a quarter of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a pint 
 and a half of boiling water. 
 
 Put the water and half a capful of sugar on the stove in 
 a saucepan, and boil for ten minutes. Pare and core the 
 apples, and cook them gently in the boiling water and 
 sugar until they begin to grow tender, say for eight or 
 ten minutes. Be careful not to cook them so long nor 
 o rapidly that they will break. Remove them from the 
 saucepan, and let them drain ; then put them into a pud- 
 ding-dish that will hold about two quarts, and after 
 sprinkling them with one-fourth of a cupful of sugar and 
 a little nutmeg, place the dish in a moderate oven. 
 
 Break the eggs into a bowl, and add the salt and 
 the remaining sugar and nutmeg. Beat the mixture 
 thoroughly with a spoon, and when it gets thoroughly 
 beaten, add the milk and strain the mixture. Take the 
 pudding-dish from the oven, and pour the custard over 
 it, being careful not to displace the apples. Return to 
 the oven, and bake for half an hour ; then put away to 
 cool. At serving-time put half a teaspoonful of bright 
 jelly in the centre of each apple. 
 
 Partially cooking the apples before the custard is added 
 gives a much finer pudding than the old method of pour- 
 
JPUDDINGS. 657 
 
 ing the custard over the uncooked fruit. It takes longer 
 to cook the apples than the custard, and if both were 
 baked for the same time, one or the other would be 
 spoiled. The sugar and water in which the fruit is par- 
 tially cooked may be used in stewing apples or pears. 
 
 *R8d Gro. 
 
 The materials are : a pint of any kind of red fruit juice, 
 one quart of water, one cupful of sago, one-fourth of a 
 teaspoonful of salt, and if strawberry or raspberry juice 
 be used, one cupful of sugar ; or if currant juice be used, 
 one cupful and a half of sugar. 
 
 Wash the sago, and let it soak over night in the quart 
 of cold water. In the morning put it in the double 
 boiler with the water in which it was soaked, and cook 
 for one hour. At the end of that time add the fruit 
 juice, salt, and sugar, and cook half an hour longer. 
 
 Wet a smooth earthen dish with cold water, and turn 
 the rod gro into it. Let it stand in a cold place for 
 three or four hours. At serving-time turn out on a flat 
 dish, and heap whipped cream around it; or if it be 
 inconvenient to provide whipped cream, serve with plain 
 cream. 
 
 In winter and spring this dish may be prepared with 
 a pint of the red syrup that is usually left from any 
 red preserve ; or it may be made by the addition of a 
 tumbler of currant jelly to the cooked sago. In case 
 either the juice or the jelly be used, only a little sugar 
 will be needed. 
 
 * Tapioca Cream Pudding. 
 
 These are the ingredients needed : three pints of milk, 
 one pint of cold water, one teacupful of tapioca, half a 
 teaspoonful of salt, the rind and juice of an orange, three 
 eggs, and a cupful and a quarter of powdered sugar. 
 
658 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Wash the tapioca, and soak it in the cold water over 
 night. In the morning put the tapioca, milk, and grated 
 rind of the orange in a double-boiler, and cook for half 
 an hour. Meanwhile separate the yolks of the eggs 
 from the whites. Put the whites in a cool place. Beat 
 together the yolks, orange juice, salt, and one cupful of 
 the sugar. At the end of the half -hour gradually pour 
 the boiling mixture upon the second one, stirring all the 
 while ; then turn into a pudding-dish. Beat the whites 
 of the eggs to a stiff, dry froth, and gradually beat into 
 this froth the remaining sugar. Spread over the pud- 
 ding, and then cook for thirty minutes with the oven 
 door open. Set away to cool, and do not serve until the 
 pudding is perfectly cold. 
 
 * Custard M6ringue Pudding. 
 
 For a pudding sufficiently large for six or eight per- 
 sons use these materials : one quart of milk, four table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, three eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
 one table-spoonful of butter, one teaspoonful and a half 
 of vanilla extract, half a cupful of granulated sugar, and 
 three table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. 
 
 Keserve half a cupful of milk, and put the rest on the 
 stove in a double-boiler. Mix the flour and cold milk, 
 and stir the mixture into the boiling milk ; continuing to 
 stir until the liquid is perfectly smooth. Beat together 
 the yolks of the eggs, granulated sugar, salt, and one 
 teaspoonful of the vanilla extract. Stir this mixture 
 into that which already is cooking ; then take the boiler 
 from the stove, and after adding the butter, pour the 
 mixture into a pudding-dish. Bake in a slow oven for 
 half an hour. 
 
 At the end of that time beat the whites of the eggs to 
 a stiff, dry froth, and then beat into them the powdered 
 sugar and half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Spread 
 this meringue over the pudding, and let it bake for a 
 
PUDDINGS. 659 
 
 quarter of an hour with the oven door open; then set 
 away to cool. This is nice for Sunday, as it may be 
 prepared the day before. 
 
 *Cold Custard Pudding. 
 
 This is made of a quart of milk, four eggs, a stick 
 of cinnamon, a table-spoonful of corn-starch, half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and a scant half-teacupful of sugar. 
 
 Reserve half a cupful of the milk, and put the re- 
 mainder, with the cinnamon, broken into several pieces, 
 on the stove in a double-boiler. When the milk begins 
 to boil, add the sugar, salt, and the corn-starch, mixed 
 with the cold milk, and cook five minutes longer. Take 
 from the fire, and set away to cool. Beat the eggs well, 
 and when the cooked mixture becomes cold, stir the eggs 
 into it ; then strain into a pudding-dish. Bake in a very 
 moderate oven until the pudding becomes firm in the 
 centre. Get this knowledge by inserting the blade of a 
 knife or the handle of a spoon into the centre of the 
 pudding ; for if it come out free of milk, the pudding 
 need be cooked no longer. It takes about half an hour 
 for the baking. Have the pudding ice-cold when it is 
 served. 
 
 If lemon flavor be liked, the thin rind of a lemon, instead 
 of the stick of cinnamon, may be cooked in the milk. 
 Old-fashioned housekeepers sometimes use lemon and 
 cinnamon together, getting a nice flavor. It is not ab- 
 solutely necessary to use corn-starch ; the custard will 
 be firm and smooth without it. When eggs are scarce, 
 three will be enough to use, with the corn-starch. The 
 fourth egg, of course, makes the pudding richer. 
 
 Orange Pudding. 
 
 Use a cupful of finely powdered cracker crumbs, one 
 cupful and a half of granulated sugar, three table-spoon- 
 fuls of powdered sugar, one cupful of water, two table- 
 
660 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 spoonfuls of butter, the rind of three oranges and juice 
 of six, and half a dozen eggs. 
 
 Soak the cracker crumbs in the cold water for an hour. 
 At the end of this time grate upon them the rind of three 
 oranges, only the thin yellow part. Squeeze the juice 
 from half a dozen oranges, and add it to the mixture. 
 Break the eggs, separating three whites from the rest 
 and putting them away in a cool place. Put the butter 
 in a warm bowl, and beat it until soft and creamy ; then 
 gradually add the sugar. Beat the eggs (except the 
 reserved whites) until light and frothy, and add them to 
 the sugar and butter. Stir this into the orange and 
 cracker mixture. Butter a pudding-dish holding two 
 quarts and a pint, and pour the pudding into it. Bake 
 for an hour in a very slow oven. 
 
 When the hour has passed, beat the remaining whites 
 of eggs to a light, dry froth ; then, with a spoon, beat in 
 the three table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Spread 
 this covering over the pudding, and return the dish to the 
 oven. Cook for a quarter of an hour with the door partly 
 open ; close it at the end of that time until the meringue 
 gets brown. It should become sufficiently colored in 
 three minutes. Set the pudding away to cool, and have 
 it perfectly cold when it is served. 
 
 * Use six large oranges, one cupful of granulated sugar, 
 three table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, one quart of 
 milk, three eggs, two table-spoonfuls of corn-starch, and 
 half a teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Peel the oranges, and slice them thin, cutting down 
 instead of across. Add the cupful of granulated sugar, 
 and let the fruit stand for an hour. 
 
 Reserve one-fourth of a cupful of the milk, and put the 
 rest into a double-boiler. Mix the corn-starch with the 
 cold milk, and after adding the yolks of the eggs and 
 the salt, beat the mixture thoroughly ; then stir into the 
 
PUDDINGS. 661 
 
 boiling milk, and cook for eight minutes, stirring fre- 
 quently. When it is done, let it cool ; then spread a thin 
 layer in a pudding-dish, and spread upon it a layer of 
 orange. Continue placing these alternate layers until all 
 the materials are used. 
 
 Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff, dry froth, and 
 beat into this froth three spoonfuls of powdered sugar. 
 Spread this mixture on the pudding. Set the dish in a 
 moderate oven, and cook, with the door open, for twenty 
 minutes. Serve cold. 
 
 * New York Rice Pudding. 
 
 Use half a cupful of rice, a pint of water, a quart of 
 milk, four table-spoonfuls of sugar, one of corn-starch, a 
 teaspoonful of salt, and such flavoring as you please. 
 
 Wash the rice in three waters, and soak it half an hour 
 in cold water ; then pour off this, and add fresh water, 
 and let the dish stand on the back part of the range 
 until it becomes blood warm. Now pour off the water 
 again, and add a pint of cold water. Cook the pudding 
 in a double-boiler for half an hour ; then add a pint of 
 the cold milk, and when the dish begins to boil say in 
 fifteen minutes add the corn-starch, mixed with half a 
 cupful of the remaining milk. After ten minutes' cook- 
 ing add the rest of the milk, and the sugar, salt, and 
 flavoring. The latter may be a teaspoonful of vanilla or 
 lemon extract, or a light grating of nutmeg. Stir well, 
 and after turning into a pudding-dish, bake for twenty 
 minutes in a moderate oven. Serve cold. 
 
 *Rice Balls with Soft Custard. 
 
 After washing a cupful of rice in three waters, and 
 soaking it for an hour in cold water, pour off the latter, 
 and add two cupfuls and a half of milk to the rice. Put 
 on to cook in the double-boiler. At the end of an hour 
 add a teaspoonful of salt ; cook half an hour longer. Dip 
 
662 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 small custard cups into cold water, and then fill them 
 with cooked rice, and set where it will get wholly cold. 
 At serving-time turn the mounds of rice out upon a flat 
 dish ; and after putting a bit of bright jelly on each one, 
 pour soft custard around all. 
 
 To Make the Custard. Put a quart of milk over the 
 fire in a double-boiler. Mix two table-spoonfuls of corn- 
 starch with five of cold milk, and when the milk in the 
 boiler begins to boil, stir this mixture into it, and cook 
 ten minutes. Meanwhile beat together four eggs and 
 half a cupful of sugar, and after pouring the boiling 
 mixture over this, cook the custard in the boiler for five 
 minutes, stirring all the while. Kernove from the fire, 
 and add a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt and a large 
 teaspoonful of vanilla or lemon extract. 
 
 This is a cheap and good custard, but not, of course, so 
 good as if made chiefly of eggs. 
 
 The rice may be served hot, and the custard cold. 
 
 * Flummery. 
 
 This is a pudding made of a quart of milk, three table- 
 spoonfuls of corn-starch, half a teaspoonful of salt, one 
 generous teaspoonful of vanilla extract, the whites of 
 four eggs, and four table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
 
 Reserve half a cupful of the milk, and put the re- 
 mainder on the stove in a double-boiler. Mix the corn- 
 starch with the half-cupful of cold milk, and stir the 
 mixture into the boiling milk. Add the salt, and beat 
 thoroughly ; then cover, and cook for twelve minutes, 
 stirring twice in that time. 
 
 Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add 
 the sugar to them ; and when the pudding has cooked 
 for twelve minutes, add the whites to it. Add also the 
 vanilla extract, and beat all the ingredients together. 
 Rinse a mould with cold water, and, pouring the mixture 
 into it, set it in a cool place. Serve with soft custard 
 
PUDDINGS. 663 
 
 made of the yolks of the eggs, a pint of milk, two table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, one-tenth of a teaspoonful of salt, 
 and half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract ; or, in case the 
 Whites of eggs left from some other dish in which the 
 yolks were used be taken for this pudding, serve sugar 
 and cream instead of soft custard. 
 
 * Cream Pudding. 
 
 This is simple, but delicious. The materials are : a 
 quart of milk, four eggs, four table-spoonfuls of flour, 
 half a teaspoonful of salt, a cupful of granulated sugar, 
 and two table-spoonfuls of wine or fruit juice. 
 
 First beat the eggs. Mix the flour with the salt, and 
 half a cupful of the milk. Put the remainder of the 
 milk on the stove in a double-boiler, and as soon as it 
 begins to boil, stir in the flour. Add the eggs, and cook 
 for five minutes. Remove from the fire, and pour into a 
 pudding-dish. Sprinkle over it the sugar, and then pour 
 upon it the wine or fruit juice. Set in a cool place for 
 three hours or more. It should be perfectly cold when 
 served. 
 
 * Leche Crema. 
 
 This pudding may be eaten either warm, or cold, but 
 is best perfectly cold. It is made of a quart of milk, 
 five level table-spoonfuls of flour, three-fourths of a cup- 
 ful of powdered sugar, four eggs, half a teaspoonful 
 of salt, one table-spoonful of cinnamon, three table-spoon- 
 fuls of grated chocolate, and one teaspoonful of vanilla 
 extract. 
 
 Reserve half a cupful of the milk, and put the rest 
 into the double-boiler. Mix the flour with the milk that 
 was reserved. Beat together the eggs, salt, and four 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar, and add the flour and milk to 
 them. Stir this compound into the boiling milk, and 
 cook for a quarter of an hour, stirring often. 
 
 While the pudding is cooking, mix the cinnamon. 
 
664 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 grated chocolate, and the remainder of the sugar. When 
 the pudding is cooked, add the vanilla, and rub the pud- 
 ding through a strainer into a pudding-dish. Spread the 
 chocolate mixture on top, and place in the oven for ten- 
 minutes. At the end of that time set away to cool, 
 unless the pudding is to be served hot. 
 
 * Oatmeal Pudding. 
 
 Stir one cupful of oatmeal and one teaspoonful of salt 
 into one quart of boiling water, and cook for two hours ; 
 then add one generous pint of milk, and cook for thirty 
 minutes longer. Turn into a mould, and set away to 
 cool. 
 
 The oatmeal may be cooked in the double-boiler, and 
 will then require one-third less water. 
 
 * Cold Farina Pudding. 
 
 Use one quart of milk, one teaspoonful of salt, and 
 three table-spoonfuls of farina. Mix the farina, salt, and 
 half a cupful of the milk. Heat the remainder of the 
 milk to the boiling-point, and stir the farina into it. Cook 
 for one hour; then add three table-spoonfuls of sugar, 
 and one teaspoonful of vanilla or lemon flavor, or a little 
 nutmeg. Turn into a mould, and set away to cool. 
 
 The sugar and flavor may be omitted, and one tumbler 
 of jelly stirred in instead. When the pudding is cold, 
 serve with sugar and milk. 
 
 * Snow Pudding. 
 
 The ingredients are : one pint of boiling water, one 
 lemon, half a cupful of sugar, four table-spoonfuls of 
 corn-starch, half a cupful of cold water, and the whites of 
 four eggs. 
 
 Put the boiling water into the double-boiler, with 
 lemon juice and sugar. Add the corn-starch, which has 
 been mixed with the cold water. Cook for ten minutes. 
 
PUDDINGS. 665 
 
 Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and after 
 removing the boiling mixture from the fire, add them to 
 it. Put into moulds to cool. Serve with a soft custard, 
 made of one pint of milk, the yolks of the four eggs, one 
 whole egg, and one-fourth of a cupful of sugar. Beat 
 the eggs and sugar together ; add the milk to them, and 
 stir into the double-boiler until the mixture begins to 
 thicken. When it looks as thick at the edge of the 
 spoon as in the centre, it is done. Flavor with lemon or 
 vanilla, and serve cold. 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 Brandy Sauce. 
 
 After beating a cupful of butter to a cream, gradually 
 beat into it two cupfuls of powdered sugar ; then slowly 
 add a gill of brandy. Set the bowl in which the mixing 
 has been done into a basin of boiling water, and stir 
 the sauce until it begins to grow creamy, say for about 
 two minutes. Grate a small quantity of nutmeg over 
 it. Turn into a hot sauce-dish, and send to the table 
 with the pudding. 
 
 Wine Sauce. 
 
 Beat a cupful of butter till it is creamy ; then grad- 
 ually beat into it two cupfuls of powdered sugar, and 
 when this is done, add a gill of sherry by spoonfuls. 
 Beat the mixture until it becomes a smooth, light froth ; 
 then set the bowl in a basin of boiling water, and stir 
 for a minute and a half. Have the sauce bowl or boat 
 heated by means of boiling water. When the sauce is 
 finished, empty the bowl of water and put the sauce into 
 it. Grate a nutmeg that is, a part of one over the 
 sauce, and send to the table hot. 
 
666 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Clear Wine Sauce. 
 
 Use a cupful of sugar, a slight grating of nutmeg, a 
 pint of water, the thin yellow rind of a quarter of a 
 lemon, and half a cupful of wine. 
 
 Put the sugar, water, lemon rind, and nutmeg in a 
 stew-pan, and boil gently for half an hour ; then remove 
 the lemon, and finish the work by adding the wine. 
 
 A good sauce may be made by using cider or orange 
 juice instead of wine. In case cider be taken, no water 
 should be used, just a pint of cider, cooked with the 
 other ingredients, as directed above. 
 
 Cold Sauce. 
 
 Beat half a cupful of butter to a cream, and gradually 
 beat into it a cupful of powdered sugar. Flavor with 
 anything you please. If wine, use three table-spoonfuls 
 to be beaten in gradually ; if lemon or vanilla ex- 
 tract, a scant teaspoonful. Or the rind and juice of a 
 fresh lemon may be used. As soon as the sauce is 
 beaten to a cream, and the seasoning is added, it should 
 be heaped lightly and roughly in the dish in which it is 
 to be served, and placed in the ice-chest until serving- 
 time. 
 
 Brown Cap Sauce. 
 
 Beat half a cupful of butter to a cream ; then grad- 
 ually beat into it one cupful of powdered sugar. When 
 the mixture becomes light and creamy, beat into it the 
 juice and grated rind of one lemon. Set the bowl in 
 a pan of boiling water, and stir for two minutes. 
 
 Cream Sauce. 
 
 This sauce, which should be served hot, is made by 
 putting a cupful of sugar and half a cupful of boiling 
 water into a saucepan, and boiling rapidly for a quarter 
 
PUDDINGS. 667 
 
 of an hour ; beating a cupful of rich cream with a whisk 
 or fork, and gradually beating it into the boiling syrup, 
 at the end of the quarter of an hour ; and finally flavor- 
 ing with a generous teaspoonful of vanilla extract. 
 
 * Egg Sauce. 
 
 After beating the whites of three eggs to a stiff, dry 
 froth, put aside the beater, and with a silver spoon 
 gradually beat into the whites a cupful of powdered 
 sugar. Add a teaspoonful of vanilla or lemon extract, 
 or if you prefer, four table-spoonfuls of wine ; then stir 
 in the yolks of the three eggs. If the work be properly 
 done, a delicious sauce will be the result. 
 
 There must be no failure to beat the whites until they 
 are stiff and dry, nor to beat in the powdered sugar grad- 
 ually, and with a spoon. This sauce should be used 
 immediately ; it will not do to let it stand. 
 
 Golden Sauce. 
 
 Beat one-third of a cupful of butter to a cream, and 
 gradually beat into it a cupful of powdered sugar. Add 
 the unbeaten yolks of three eggs, and after beating the 
 mixture vigorously, add three table-spoonfuls of wine. 
 Have the whites of , the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and 
 stir them into the beaten mixture. Set the bowl in a 
 pan of boiling water, and stir constantly for five minutes. 
 Use at once. 
 
 A teaspoonful of vanilla extract, or the juice and 
 grated rind of a lemon, may be substituted for the wine. 
 
 * Lemon Sauce. 
 
 Mix a table-spoonful of corn-starch with a quarter of 
 a cupful of water. Stir this mixture into a cupful of 
 boiling water, and boil for two minutes ; then add the 
 juice and rind of a lemon and a cupful of sugar, and 
 
668 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 cook three minutes longer. Beat an egg very light, and 
 pour the boiling mixture over it. Return to the fire, 
 and cook a minute longer, stirring all the while. 
 
 * Use a lemon, a cupful of powdered sugar, two cupf uls 
 of water, one table-spoonful of corn-starch, a saltspoonful 
 of salt, half a teaspoonful of cream-of-tartar, and one 
 egg- 
 
 Mix the salt, cream-of-tartar, and corn-starch with 
 half a cupful of cold water. Pour a cupful and a half of 
 boiling water upon this mixture and place the saucepan 
 over the fire. Now add the yellow rind of the lemon, 
 cut in thin shavings, and simmer for half an hour. 
 
 Beat the white of the egg to a stiff froth, and gradually 
 beat into it, first the sugar, next the juice of the lemon, 
 and finally the yolk of the egg. Strain the boiling mix- 
 ture upon this one, and use the sauce at once. 
 
 When eggs are cheap use two or three, as they make 
 the sauce very thick and handsome. 
 
 Lemon Cream Sauce. 
 
 . Beat half a cupful of butter to a cream, and gradually 
 beat into it one cupful and a quarter of powdered sugar. 
 When the mixture is perfectly smooth and creamy, add 
 the grated rind of one lemon and four table-spoonfuls of 
 lemon juice. Beat for ten minutes, and then add a 
 slight grating of nutmeg. Now place the bowl in a pan 
 of boiling water, and stir the contents for two minutes. 
 Take from the fire immediately, and turn into a warm 
 sauce-dish. 
 
 Sabayon Sauce. 
 
 Beat together in a saucepan one cupful of powdered 
 sugar and the yolks of six eggs. Beat until very light, 
 and then add four table-spoonfuls of wine. Continue 
 beating for three minutes longer. Now pla.es the sauce- 
 
PUDDINGS. 669 
 
 pan in another containing boiling water, and cook for 
 six minutes, beating all the time. Serve the sauce at 
 once. 
 
 The rind and juice of an orange or lemon can be used 
 instead of the wine. This sauce is nice with any kind 
 of hot pudding. 
 
 * Cinnamon Sauce. 
 
 Put a cupful of sugar and one of boiling water into a 
 small saucepan, with a stick of cinnamon about four 
 inches long, and boil gently for half an hour. Re- 
 move the cinnamon, and the sauce is finished. 
 
 Or, instead of the stick cinnamon, use a quarter of a 
 teaspoonful of the ground spice. This gives a stronger 
 flavor and darker color to the sauce. 
 
 * Nutmeg Sauce. 
 
 Mix together in a saucepan one heaping table-spoonful 
 of corn-starch and one cupful of cold water. Pour over 
 this mixture one cupful of boiling water, and place over 
 the fire. Stir occasionally until it boils up; then add 
 one cupful of sugar, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of salt, 
 and one-third of a grated nutmeg. Simmer for half an 
 hour; and after adding two table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 strain,' and serve hot. 
 
 * Strawberry Sauce. 
 
 Mash a quart of strawberries over which a cupful of 
 sugar has been poured. Let the fruit stand for two or 
 three hours. Ten minutes before serving-time put it 
 into a stew-pan and on the fire. It should be heated 
 simply to the boiling-point, and will then be ready for 
 use. 
 
 Rub through a fine sieve enough preserved strawberries 
 to make half a cupful, and stir the preserve into a quart 
 
670 MISS PAELOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 of whipped cream. This is all the work required to pro- 
 duce a delicious sauce. It is well, of course, when you 
 are to use it with imperial pudding, to whip the cream 
 for the sauce at the same time you whip that for the 
 pudding, while the rice is cooking, and put it into 
 the ice-chest. A part of the cream will become liquid, 
 but may be returned to a bowl and whipped again. 
 Easpberry preserve may be used for a sauce like this. 
 
 Beat the whites of three eggs (those left when making 
 corn-starch pudding may be used) to a stiff, dry froth, 
 and gradually beat in half a cupful of powdered sugar 
 and half a cupful of preserved strawberries. 
 
 In case you have no strawberries, a nice sauce for the 
 pudding may be made by substituting a table-spoonful of 
 wine or a teaspoonful of lemon or vanilla extract. In 
 that case use a cupful, instead of half a cupful, of 
 sugar. 
 
 Put a pint of boiling water in a stew-pan. Mix a 
 heaping table-spoonful of corn-starch with one-third of a 
 cupful of cold water, and stir into the boiling water. 
 Simmer for a quarter of an hour; then add a pint of 
 strawberry preserve, and after stirring well, the sauce 
 will be ready for use. 
 
 If canned strawberries be used, cook a cupful of sugar 
 with the water and corn-starch. 
 
 * Molasses Sauce. 
 
 Put one cupful of water and half a cupful of molasses 
 on the fire, and boil gently for three-quarters of an hour. 
 Mix one table-spoonful of corn-starch with four of water 
 and one of vinegar. Stir this mixture into the boiling 
 molasses and water. Add two table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 and simmer for a quarter of an hour longer. 
 
PUDDINGS. 671 
 
 * Chocolate Sauce. 
 
 Use a cupful of powdered sugar, one piiit of milk, two 
 eggs, one table-spoonful of corn-starch, one teaspoonful 
 of vanilla extract, and two ounces of chocolate. 
 
 Reserve three table-spoonfuls of milk, and put the 
 remainder on the stove in the double-boiler. Mix the 
 corn-starch with the cold milk, and stir it into the boil- 
 ing milk. Scrape the chocolate, and put it into a small 
 frying-pan, with four table-spoonfuls of the sugar and 
 two of hot water. Stir over a hot fire until smooth and 
 glossy ; then stir into the boiling mixture. 
 
 Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff, dry froth, and 
 gradually beat the sugar into this froth; then add the 
 unbeaten yolks, and stir this mixture into that which 
 is boiling. Cook for a minute longer, stirring all the 
 while. On taking it from the fire, add the vanilla extract, 
 and pour into a sauce-dish or a small pitcher. Serve hot 
 or cold on the pudding. 
 
 This sauce is an especially nice accompaniment for 
 cold corn-starch pudding. It should be served cold when 
 used for that purpose. 
 
 Use one pint of milk, four eggs, half a cupful of sugar, 
 one ounce of scraped chocolate, one-fifth of a teaspoonful 
 of salt, and one table-spoonful of water. 
 
 Put all the milk but half a cupful on to boil. Put the 
 chocolate, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and the water 
 into a small frying-pan, and stir over a hot fire until a 
 smooth and glossy mixture is formed; then stir that 
 mixture into the boiling milk. Beat together the yolks 
 of the eggs, salt, and remainder of the sugar, and after 
 adding the cold milk, pour the mixture into a double- 
 boiler, and cook until it thickens, stirring all the while. 
 From four to five minutes' cooking will be needed. Add 
 the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and set 
 
672 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 the sauce away to cool. At serving-time turn the pud- 
 ding out on a flat dish, and pour the sauce around it. 
 
 The sauce will be much improved if a pint of whipped 
 cream be stirred into it at serving-time. 
 
 Iced Madeira Sauce. 
 
 The materials are : the juice of one orange, two table- 
 spoonfuls of lemon juice, one gill of Madeira, the whites 
 of two eggs, one cupful of sugar, and one of water. 
 
 Put the sugar and water in a stew-pan, and boil rapidly 
 for fifteen minutes. Add half the syrup to the fruit 
 juice and wine, and let the remainder boil for five 
 minutes longer. 
 
 Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff, dry froth, and 
 gradually beat into it the hot syrup. Beat for about 
 three minutes after the last of the syrup has been put 
 in, and set away in a cool place. Freeze the fruit and 
 wine preparation for ten minutes ; then add the meringue, 
 and beat well with the spoon. Cover the freezer, and 
 set away until serving-time. 
 
 This sauce may be served with Marquise and frozen 
 puddings, iced rice a 1'Imperatrice, Nesselrode, and other 
 frozen puddings. 
 
 Iced Champagne Sauce. 
 
 Substitute half a pint of champagne for the Madeira, 
 and make the same as the sauce just described. 
 
 Iced Rum Sauce. 
 
 Use the juice of two lemons and two oranges, two 
 table-spoonfuls of rum, one cupful of sugar, one of water, 
 and the whites of two eggs. Make the same as Madeira 
 sauce. 
 
 Iced Orange Sauce. 
 
 Boil together, for ten minutes, one cupful of water, 
 half a cupful of sugar, and the grated yellow rind of two 
 
PUDDINGS. 678 
 
 oranges. Add to this preparation the juice of four 
 oranges. Cool and freeze. 
 
 Boil three table-spoonfuls of sugar with three of water 
 for two minutes. Beat this into the white of one egg- 
 that has been beaten to a stiff, dry froth. Stir this 
 meringue into the frozen mixture, and the sauce will be 
 ready to serve. 
 
 43 
 
674 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 FROZEN DISHES. 
 
 DURING hot weather dessert should be as light and 
 cooling as possible. Nothing gives so much general 
 satisfaction as, or is more healthful than, frozen dishes. 
 Almost everything in the way of fruit can be frozen, and 
 the variety of ice-creams that can be made is too great 
 for enumeration. Once get into the way of preparing ices, 
 and the work will seem as simple as that for the produc- 
 tion of almost any other dessert, and the cost will be 
 found less than one is likely to imagine. There is a 
 right way and there is a wrong way to do everything ; 
 follow the directions given in this chapter for pack- 
 ing and freezing, and you will have no difficulty in 
 attaining success. 
 
 The simplest kind of ice-cream is that made only of 
 cream, sugar, and flavoring. A quart of cream mixed 
 with a small cupful of sugar and two-thirds of a table- 
 spoonful of vanilla, lemon, or orange extract will give a 
 very satisfactory dish. Or a quart of strawberries may 
 be sprinkled with a pint of sugar, mashed, and allowed 
 to stand two hours; then put with a quart of cream, 
 rubbed through a strainer, and frozen. 
 
 Almost any kind of fruit can be made very sweet, and 
 frozen with water. The average proportions would be 
 one pint of sugar to three pints of fresh fruit, or a quart 
 of canned fruit, and one quart of water. The juice of 
 any fruit can be combined with water and sugar, and then 
 frozen. The more acid the fruit, the less the quantity 
 
DESSERT. 
 
 675 
 
 required. For example, the juice of five large lemons, a 
 pint of sugar, and a quart of water will make lemon 
 sherbet, but for orange sherbet ten oranges are needed. 
 
 Some preparation is necessary for the freezing. The 
 ice must be broken into pieces about as big as a pint 
 bowl, and then put into a canvas bag, and pounded with 
 a mallet until these pieces 
 are reduced to the size of 
 a bird's egg, or entirely 
 crushed. After adjusting in 
 the freezer the can contain- 
 ing the liquid, pack around 
 the can a layer of ice five 
 inches deep. Sprinkle this 
 freely with rock salt. Con- 
 tinue putting in these alter- 
 
 , . -I -I. Mallet and Ice-bag, 
 
 nate layers of ice and salt 
 
 until the can is full, pounding the packing with a paddle 
 or stick of wood each time that salt is added. Turning 
 the crank a few times will cause the ice to settle, and a 
 little more should be added. Never draw off the water 
 which forms in the tub, because it fills every crevice and 
 gives the can a complete cold envelope. For a gallon 
 freezer there will be needed about ten quarts of ice and 
 three pints of salt. By using more salt the work may 
 be done more quickly, but the cream will not be so 
 smooth. At first the crank should not be turned fast, but 
 the speed should be increased as the cream grows hard. 
 
 When the cream is finished, carefully wipe the bits of 
 ice and salt from the cover of the can, and remove the 
 cover without displacing the can. Kemove the beater, 
 scraping the cream from it, and work a large spoon up 
 and down in the can until the space left by withdrawing 
 the beater is filled, and the cream is light. Keplace the 
 cover, putting a cork into the hole from which the trunk 
 of the beater was taken, and set the freezer aside for a 
 while, being careful, however, that it is kept in a cool 
 
676 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 place, and that the can is covered with ice, and a piece 
 of carpet or a blanket thrown over it. 
 
 When serving-time comes, take the can from the tub, 
 and place it for a few seconds ten should be enough 
 in a pan of tepid water, and the heat will cause the 
 cream to slip out easily upon a dish. If the can be 
 placed in cold water it will take considerably longer, but 
 the cream will come out smoother and firmer. If a large 
 cooking-spoon be dipped for an instant into hot water 
 when the cream is served, the cream may be taken from 
 the freezer in smooth, egg-shaped portions, pleasing to 
 the eye. 
 
 If the cream is to be moulded, it should be removed 
 from the freezer when the beater is taken out ; and when 
 it is put into the mould, it should be worked up and 
 down with a spoon, so that every part of the mould shall 
 be filled. Place a sheet of white paper over it before 
 putting on the cover, and then bury the mould in fresh 
 ice and salt. 
 
 If the mould is to stand in the salt and ice for many 
 hours, cut a strip of paper or cloth to fit round the cover 
 where it joins the mould ; spread this with soft butter 
 or sweet mutton-tallow, and fasten it where the cover 
 and mould join. This will keep out the salt water. 
 Remove this, and wipe carefully before taking off the 
 cover. 
 
 Philadelphia Ice-cream. 
 
 Genuine Philadelphia ice-cream is understood to be a 
 composition of pure cream, sugar, and flavor. The cream 
 may be rich or thin, but milk of poor quality will not 
 answer. If the cream be exceeding rich it may be diffi- 
 cult to freeze and may contain grains of butter; so it 
 should be made cold, before any other work is done, by 
 keeping it in a pan of ice-water for half an hour. The 
 cream furnished by city milkmen is not likely to be 
 found too rich, but when one is supplied by a Jersey cow 
 it is best to use half milk and half cream. 
 
DESSERT. B77 
 
 To make ice-cream, mix three pints of cream, a gen- 
 erous half -pint of sugar, and the flavor; and after 
 letting the mixture stand for twenty minutes in the 
 freezer, carefully packed in ice and salt, turn the crank 
 for twenty minutes. The cream will then be hard and 
 smooth. If vanilla be the flavor chosen, use a scant 
 table-spoonful ; if lemon, use a little more than half a 
 table-spoonful. Or, instead of using lemon extract, one 
 may put the juice and grated rind of two lemons into a 
 stew-pan with the half-pint of sugar and half a cupful of 
 water, and after boiling for ten minutes, strain the syrup, 
 cool it, and add it to the plain cream. Of course, other 
 flavors besides lemon and vanilla may be used. 
 
 Arrowroot Ice-cream. 
 
 For a gallon of ice-cream use one quart of milk, two 
 quarts of cream, one pint of sugar, two table-spoonfuls of 
 arrowroot, and a table-spoonful of vanilla. Any other 
 flavor, however, may be used. 
 
 Mix the arrowroot with one cupful of the milk, and 
 put the remainder of the milk into the double-boiler. 
 When it boils, stir in the arrowroot and cook ten minutes, 
 stirring frequently. Take from the fire, add the sugar, 
 and set away to cool. When cold, add the cream and 
 flavor, and freeze. 
 
 Gelatine Ice-cream. 
 
 For a gallon of ice-cream use two quarts of cream, one 
 quart of milk, one pint of sugar, half a package of gela- 
 tine, and any flavor one may choose. This quantity 
 would require a table-spoonful and a half of vanilla 
 extract, or a table-spoonful of lemon or orange extract, 
 two ounces of chocolate, and like quantities for other 
 flavors. 
 
 Soak the gelatine for two hours in half a cupful of 
 milk. Heat one cupful of milk, and stir the soaked gela- 
 
678 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 tine and sugar into it. Stir for a minute, and then turn 
 this into the remainder of the milk. Strain, and cool. 
 Whip the cream, and add it to the cooled preparation. 
 Put it into the freezer, and pack and freeze. 
 
 Chocolate Ice-cream. 
 
 Use one quart of cream, a pint and a half of milk, 
 four eggs, two table-spoonfuls of flour, two cupfuls and 
 three table-spoonfuls of sugar, one ounce of chocolate, and 
 a table-spoonful of water. 
 
 Put the milk into the double-boiler, and place on the 
 fire. Beat together the flour, two cupfuls of the sugar, 
 and the eggs. When light, stir them into the boiling 
 milk, and cook for fifteen minutes, stirring frequently. 
 Scrape the chocolate, and put it into a small saucepan 
 with the three remaining table-spoonfuls of sugar and a 
 table-spoonful of water. Stir over a hot fire until smooth 
 and glossy, and add this to the cooked mixture. Set 
 away to cool. When cold, add the cream, and freeze. 
 
 Any other flavor may be used for this cream. 
 
 Coffee Ice-cream. 
 
 Use two quarts of cream, a pint and a half of boiling 
 water, a pint of sugar, half a cupful of coffee, ground 
 fine, and the yolks of four eggs. 
 
 Make the coffee in a small biggin, using the dry coffee 
 and boiling water. Put the filtered coffee and sugar into 
 a saucepan, and boil for twenty-five minutes. Beat the 
 yolks of the eggs well, and then beat them into the 
 syrup. Take from the fire, and beat for three minutes ; 
 then beat in a cupful of the cream, and cool. Wton 
 cold, add the remainder of the cream, and freeze. 
 
 Neapolitan Ice-cream. 
 
 Tor this there will be required one quart of milk, one 
 quart of cream, a cupful and a half of strawberry or 
 
DESSERT. 679 
 
 raspberry juice, one ounce of chocolate, one table-spoonful 
 of vanilla, one pint of sugar, the yolks of six eggs, and 
 one teaspoonful of dissolved cochineal. 
 
 Beat the yolks of the eggs and three gills of the sugar 
 together, and add half a cupful of milk to them. Put 
 the remainder of the milk into the double-boiler, and 
 place on the fire. When the milk boils, pour it on the 
 egg mixture ; pour this into the double-boiler, and cook 
 for four minutes, stirring all the time. Take from the 
 fire, and set away to cool. When cold, add the vanilla 
 and the cream. Freeze for twenty minutes. 
 
 Have a tub in which will fit a three-quart mould; a 
 brick or melon mould is best for this kind of cream. 
 Have salt and ice ready for packing. 
 
 Scrape the chocolate, and put it into a small saucepan, 
 with a gill of sugar and one table-spoonful of water. Stir 
 over a hot fire until smooth and glossy ; then add two 
 more table-spoonfuls of water, and set back where the 
 mixture will not cook any more. Put one-third of the 
 frozen cream into a bowl, and beat the dissolved chocolate 
 into it. When perfectly smooth, pack it in the mould, 
 and pack ice and salt about the mould. 
 
 Put half of the remaining vanilla cream on the mix- 
 ture in the mould. Add the cochineal to the fruit juice, 
 and beat this into the remainder of the frozen cream. 
 Spread this on the other creams in the mould. Cover 
 closely, and set away for an hour or more. It will be 
 better if the mould of cream can stand for two or three 
 hours. 
 
 Biscuit Ice-cream. 
 
 Use two quarts of whipped and drained cream, four 
 eggs, three-fourths of a cupful of sugar, three-fourths of 
 a cupful of water, and one teaspoonful of vanilla extract. 
 
 Boil the sugar and water together for twenty-five min- 
 utes. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff, dry froth, 
 and gradually beat into them the hot syrup. Beat the 
 
680 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 yolks well, and add them to the whites and syrup. Place 
 the saucepan in another saucepan of boiling water, and 
 cook for ten minutes, beating all the while. Set the 
 preparation away to cool. When cold, add the vanilla, 
 and mix the cream in lightly. Pack and freeze the 
 same as a mousse. It will take three or four hours to 
 harden. 
 
 Instead of the vanilla, any of the following-named 
 flavors may be added : four table.-spoonfuls of wine, one 
 teaspoonful of rum, four table-spoonfuls of Maraschino. 
 
 The mould for a biscuit ice-cream may be lined with a 
 sherbet, the same as for a mousse. 
 
 Chestnut Ice-cream. 
 
 Use two quarts of cream, a cupful and a half of sugar, 
 the juice and rind of an orange, a cupful of water, a gill 
 of wine, thirty French chestnuts. 
 
 Shell and blanch the chestnuts, cover them with boil- 
 ing water, and cook for half an hour. Drain off the 
 water, pound the chestnuts in a mortar, and then rub 
 them through a puree-sieve. Put the sugar, grated 
 orange rind, and water in a stew-pan, and place on the 
 fire. Boil for twenty minntes ; add the chestnut puree, 
 and cook for five minutes longer. Take from the fire, 
 and add the orange juice and wine. When cold, add 
 the cream, and freeze. The wine and orange may be 
 omitted. 
 
 Peach Ice-cream. 
 
 For about two quarts of frozen cream use one quart of 
 sweet cream, one generous pint of ripe peaches, pared, 
 mashed, and strained, one cupful and a half of sugar, and 
 one-fourth of a teaspoonful of almond extract. 
 
 Mix the sugar with the strained peaches ; then add the 
 cream, beating it in gradually. Now add the almond 
 extract, and freeze. 
 
DESSERT. 681 
 
 Here is another receipt : Use one quart of pared and 
 quartered peaches, one quart of cream, one heaping cup- 
 ful of sugar, and four table-spoonfuls of sherry. 
 
 Mix the sugar, cream, and sherry, and freeze for fifteen 
 minutes, in which time the mixture should be smooth, 
 but not very hard. Take out the beater, and stir in the 
 peaches. Pack smooth, and set away in a cool place for 
 an hour or two. Then turn out, and serve. 
 
 " Unsweetened fruit would grow very hard if it stood 
 long in a freezing temperature. 
 
 Blueberry Ice-cream. 
 
 Use one quart of large ripe blueberries, one quart of 
 cream, one cupful of sugar, and one teaspoonful of vanilla 
 extract. 
 
 Freeze the cream for fifteen minutes. Remove the 
 beater, and stir in the blueberries. Pack in a mould or 
 in the freezer, and let it stand for an hour or more. 
 
 MOUSSES. 
 
 A mousse is a dish that is made with whipped cream, 
 and frozen without being stirred. When the frozen 
 mass is cut into, it has a texture like the fine moss found 
 in deep woods. Among the definitions given for the word 
 "mousse" are "mossy, froth, foam;" hence the name. 
 The dish is really a mossy froth. The labor of preparing 
 this dish is slight, but it takes a long time to harden. 
 In making a mousse, the first step is to whip the cream 
 and drain it, for if there be any liquid cream in the 
 mousse it will not be perfect. Now pack the mould in 
 salt and ice, using five pints of salt for a gallon mould. 
 Finish the mousse preparation, and put it into the 
 mould; cover and set away for four or six hours. 
 Six hours is always best. If the mould be lined with 
 white paper, the mousse will have a smoother and hand- 
 
682 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 somer appearance when turned out on a dish, but it 
 takes a little longer to freeze. It is a great improvement 
 to line the bottom and sides of the mould with a sherbet 
 that will combine with the flavor of the mousse. 
 
 To line the mould with the sherbet, have the sherbet 
 frozen smooth, but very soft. If it happens that it has 
 frozen too hard to spread easily, beat it in a bowl until 
 smooth and soft. Spread this in the packed mould, and 
 then fill with the mousse preparation. For the Nea- 
 politan and fruit mousses, a lining of Roman punch is 
 suitable, though any of the fruit sherbets may be used. 
 Coffee mousse may have a lining of coifee ice. 
 
 Remember that a mousse is not good unless it be prop- 
 erly frozen ; and it is necessary to begin the freezing 
 so early that there may be from four to six hours for 
 freezing. 
 
 Chocolate Mousse. 
 
 Pack a three-quart mould the same as for a Neapolitan 
 mousse. Whip a quart of cream in the same manner, 
 but be very careful that no liquid cream is put into the 
 mould. To guard against it, drain the whipped cream 
 well. Scrape fine an ounce of chocolate, and put it into 
 a small frying-pan, with three table-spoonfuls of sugar 
 and one of boiling water. Stir over a hot fire until 
 smooth and glossy, that is, for about a minute ; then 
 add six table-spoonfuls of whipped cream to it, and stir 
 into the dish of whipped cream. Add a scant cupful of 
 sugar, and stir gently until the ingredients are well 
 mixed. Turn the mixture into a mould, which has pre- 
 viously been packed in salt and ice until thoroughly 
 chilled, and cover it ; and after throwing a piece of car- 
 pet over the tub, set away in a cool place for four hours. 
 Turn out the same as the Neapolitan mousse. 
 
 The materials required are : one quart of cream, one 
 cupful of sugar, one ounce of chocolate, two quarts of 
 coarse salt, and about fifteen pounds of ice. 
 
DESSEKT. 683 
 
 Strawberry Mousse. 
 
 Mash well in a bowl, with a spoon, a quart of straw- 
 berries and a pint of sugar. Let this stand for two 
 hours, and during the same period soak a quarter of a 
 package of gelatine in a quarter of a cupful of cold water. 
 At the end of the two hours pack a three-quart mould 
 or a gallon mould in two quarts of coarse salt and enough 
 ice to bring the packing up to the cover of the mould. 
 Rub the crushed strawberries through a strainer. Pour 
 one-third of a cupful of boiling water upon the soaked 
 gelatine, and when the latter has become dissolved, put 
 it with the fruit. Set the basin containing this mixture 
 in a pan of ice-water, and stir until the contents begin to 
 thicken ; then add three quarts of whipped cream, stir- 
 ring gently. When the mixture is smooth, turn it into 
 the mould, and lay over it a sheet of soft white paper. 
 Put on the cover, and coat the edge with melted suet, 
 which will keep out the salt water. Add a pint of salt 
 to the packing, together with enough ice to cover the 
 mould completely. Let the mousse stand for four hours 
 in a cold place. At serving-time remove the mould from 
 the ice, and after wiping off the suet and any particles 
 of salt, dip it into tepid water. In a moment remove it, 
 and wipe it carefully ; then turn the mousse out on a 
 flat dish. It should be cut in smooth slices as it is 
 served. 
 
 Peach Mousse. 
 
 The fruit must be very ripe. Peel and slice enough 
 to make a quart. Hub it through a sieve ; and after 
 adding a pint of sugar, and mixing well, add two quarts 
 of whipped cream. By some people it may be considered 
 an improvement to add, also, two table-spoonfuls of Ma- 
 raschino or wine. Heap the mousse lightly in a three- 
 quart mould, or the can in an ice-cream freezer, which 
 has been packed in salt and ice. Cover with ice and a 
 
684 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 piece of an old blanket or carpet. About twenty pounds 
 of ice and two quarts of salt will be required for 
 the packing. Let the mousse stand for four hours. At 
 serving-time dip the mould into blood-warm water for 
 a moment, and turn out on a flat dish. 
 
 Coffee Mousse. 
 
 Use half a cupful of coffee, ground fine, three gills of 
 boiling water, one cupful of sugar, the yolks of four 
 eggs, and four quarts of whipped and drained cream. 
 
 Filter the coffee in a small biggin, pouring it through 
 the filter a second time. Beat the yolks of the eggs and 
 sugar together, add the coffee to them, and cook in the 
 double-boiler for four minutes, stirring all the while. 
 Take from the fire, and place in a pan of water to cool, 
 stirring frequently. Pack a gallon mould, using five 
 pints of salt, and ice enough to pack solidly. Mix the 
 custard gently with the whipped and drained cream. Put 
 the preparation into the mould, cover closely, and put 
 away in a cold place for from four to six hours. 
 
 Caramel Mousse. 
 
 Use three quarts of whipped and drained cream, three 
 gills of sugar, one gill of water, one of milk, two eggs, 
 and two table-spoonfuls of gelatine. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in the milk for two hours. At the 
 end of that time put one gill of sugar in a small sauce- 
 pan, and stir over the fire until it becomes liquid, and 
 turns a dark brown. Now add the gill of water, and 
 simmer until the sugar is dissolved again, it will take 
 about fifteen minutes. Beat the eggs and the remainder 
 of the sugar together, until very light. Put this mix- 
 ture into the double-boiler, with the soaked gelatine and 
 the milk. Cook for five minutes, stirring all the time. 
 Take from the fire, and add the caramel. While this 
 mixture is cooling, pack a plain mould in salt and ice. 
 
DESSERT. 685 
 
 Now beat the cooled mixture until it is frothy. Should 
 it have become so cold that it is jellied before the mould 
 is packed, place it in a pan of warm water for a minute, 
 and stir until it is liquid. Now beat until it is frothy ; 
 gently stir the whipped cream into this. When the 
 custard and cream are combined, turn the mixture gently 
 into the mould. Cover, and set away in a cold place for 
 four hours. 
 
 Neapolitan Mousse. 
 
 The materials needed for this dish are : one quart of 
 cream, one-third of a package of gelatine, one teacupful 
 of sugar, four table-spoonfuls of wine, half a pound of 
 candied cherries, two-thirds of a cupful of water, two 
 quarts of coarse salt, and about twelve pounds of ice. 
 
 Pack a three-quart mould in salt and ice. Now whip 
 one quart of cream to a froth, and skim it into a pan 
 which is set in another of ice-water. When nearly all 
 the cream is whipped, return to the pail the cream that 
 has turned liquid, and whip again. When all the cream 
 is whipped, sprinkle into it one teacupful of sugar and 
 four table-spoonfuls of wine. Pour one-third of a cupful 
 of boiling water on one-third of a package of gelatine 
 which has been soaked in one-third of a cupful of cold 
 water for two hours. When the gelatine is dissolved, 
 pour it over the whipped cream, and stir until the mix- 
 ture begins to thicken ; then pour a portion into the 
 mould, and sprinkle in a layer of French candied cherries, 
 cut in halves. Now pour in more cream, and then 
 use more cherries. Continue in this way until all the 
 materials are used. Cover the mould, throw a piece 
 of carpet over the tub, and set away for three hours. 
 At serving-time drop the mould into blood-warm water ; 
 then wipe it, and turn on a flat dish. 
 
 In packing, the mould must be placed in a wooden 
 bucket. A gallon ice-cream freezer answers very well, 
 as it does not matter if the mould holds more than 
 three quarts. 
 
686 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Biscuit Tortoni. 
 
 Use a generous gallon of whipped and drained cream, 
 one cupful of powdered sugar, one of water, the yolks of 
 five eggs, half a cupful of dried and powdered maca- 
 roons, two table-spoonfuls of blanched and chopped 
 almonds, four table-spoonfuls of sherry, two of candied 
 cherries, and one-eighth of a teaspoonful of almond 
 extract. 
 
 Boil the sugar and water together for twenty minutes. 
 Beat the yolks of the eggs well, and stir them into the 
 hot syrup. Place the basin which contains the syrup 
 and eggs in another of boiling water, and cook for five 
 minutes, beating all the while. When done, set away to 
 cool. Put the powdered macaroons into a chopping-tray 
 with the chopped almonds ; add the cherries and chop 
 until the cherries are very fine, if chopped alone, they 
 would become sticky and cling together. Add the wine 
 and almond extract to the cold egg preparation ; stir this 
 mixture gently into the whipped cream, and sprinkle in 
 the chopped fruit and macaroons. 
 
 Have a gallon mould or freezer packed in salt and ice. 
 Turn the preparation into it ; cover, and add more salt 
 and ice, and place a piece of carpet or blanket over the 
 tub. Set away for from four to six hours. Serve with 
 an iced sauce. 
 
 Use about five pints of salt in packing and ice enough 
 to pack very solidly. The mould may be lined with 
 Koman punch or sherbet as for mousse. In that case 
 no sauce will be required. 
 ' 
 
 SHERBETS. 
 
 Sherbets or water ices, as they are commonly called 
 are made of fruit juice, sugar, and water. The simplest 
 are made by mixing the sugar, water, and fruit juice 
 together. A richer and smoother ice is obtained by 
 
DESSERT. 687 
 
 boiling the sugar and water together, then adding the 
 fruit juice, and when the mixture is cool, freezing it. 
 It takes nearly twice as long to 'freeze the preparation 
 when made in this way as when made with the uncooked 
 mixture. 
 
 When sherbets are frozen in a patent freezer they are 
 rather light and somewhat creamy. Many people con- 
 sider this an objection. When a more watery appear- 
 ance is desired the sherbet is frozen in the old-fashioned 
 freezer, and stirred and beaten with a long wooden 
 paddle, called a spatula. Whichever way the sherbet 
 is frozen, the packing must be the same as for ice- 
 cream. 
 
 Sherbets are usually served at the end of a dinner, 
 but they are sometimes served before the game instead 
 of a sorbet or Roman punch. Sherbet may be served in 
 glasses, in orange baskets, or in fancy paper cases. It 
 also is served in moulds. Sometimes it is combined 
 with ice-cream ; the mould is packed about one-third 
 full of sherbet, and is then filled with ice-cream. Or 
 the cream may be packed first, and the layer of sherbet 
 placed on top. 
 
 Orange Sherbet. 
 
 Mix together one pint of orange juice, the grated 
 yellow rind of two oranges, and the juice of two lemons. 
 Let this mixture stand for one hour ; add one quart of 
 water*and a pint of sugar ; strain, and freeze. 
 
 Or the sugar and water may be boiled together for 
 twenty minutes, the strained fruit juice added to this, 
 and when the preparation is cold, it may be frozen. 
 
 Lemon Sherbet. 
 
 Use half a pint of lemon juice and the grated yellow 
 rind of two lemons, one pint of sugar, and a scant quart 
 of water, 
 
688 MISS FAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Make the same as orange sherbet. Baspberry, straw- 
 berry, cherry, and other sherbets are made the same as 
 the orange sherbet. 
 
 Blackberry Sherbet. 
 
 These are the ingredients required: three quarts of 
 blackberries, one quart of water, one pint of sugar, and 
 the juice of four lemons. 
 
 Mash the fruit and sugar together, and let the mixture 
 stand for one hour ; then add the water, and place it on 
 the tire. Cook for twenty minutes after the liquid 
 begins to boil. At the end of that time strain and cool ; 
 and when cool, freeze. 
 
 Currant Sherbet. 
 
 Put a pint of sugar into a quart of boiling water, and 
 boil for half an hour ; then add a pint of currant juice 
 and the juice of two lemons. When cold, freeze. 
 
 Roman Punch. 
 
 The materials required are: the juice of six large 
 lemons and of one orange, one pint and a gill of sugar, 
 one quart and a gill of water, one gill of sherry, two 
 table-spoonfuls of Jamaica rum, and the whites of four 
 eggs. 
 
 Boil together one quart of water and one pint of sugar 
 for half an hour ; add the fruit juice and set away to 
 cool. When the mixture, is cold, put one gill of sugar 
 and one gill of water in a small saucepan, and place on 
 the fire; boil for fifteen minutes. While the syrup is 
 cooking, beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff, dry froth. 
 Beat the hot syrup into this, pouring it into the sauce- 
 pan in a thin stream, and beating all the time. Beat 
 this mixture for about four minutes after all the syrup 
 has been added, and set away to cool. 
 
 Now pack the punch mixture. Freeze for twenty 
 
DESSERT. 689 
 
 minutes, turning the freezer all the while. At the end of 
 that time remove the cover and take out the beater. Now 
 add the wine, rum, and meringue. Beat well with a spoon, 
 mixing the new ingredients thoroughly with the frozen 
 preparation. Cover, and set away until serving-time. 
 Serve in glasses, if convenient. 
 
 The ingredients are : one quart of water, one pint of 
 sugar, the juice of six lemons and of one orange, one 
 gill of strong green tea, and a gill of rum. 
 
 Boil the water and sugar together for twenty minutes ; 
 add the fruit juice and tea, and set away to cool. When 
 cool, freeze ; when frozen, beat in the rum. This rule 
 gives *a much stronger punch than the first. 
 
 - 
 . Sorbets. 
 
 Make any kind of sherbet and half freeze it, and you 
 have a simple sorbet. Generally, however, wine, rum, or 
 some kind of cordial is added when the mixture has been 
 frozen. Serve in glasses before or after the roast. The 
 sorbet should be frozen only twelve or fifteen minutes. 
 
 The finest kinds of sorbets are those made with the 
 juice of several kinds of fruit. Here is a good rule : 
 
 Boil together, for twenty minutes, one pint of sugar, 
 one quart of water, and one pint of chopped pineapple. 
 Add to this preparation one gill of lemon juice and half 
 a pint of orange juice. When cold, strain and freeze. 
 
 
 ofair 
 GRANITES. 
 
 Granites are a rough kind of sorbets. They are made 
 of fruit juice, sugar, and water. When the small fruits 
 are in season, some of the whole fruit frequently is added 
 to the frozen preparation when it is served. Granites 
 (unlike sherbets or sorbets, which must have a smooth 
 grain) must be frozen without beating or even much 
 
690 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 stirring, as the design is to have a rough icy substance. 
 This is peculiarly grateful to the palate in the midst of 
 a dinner. Any kind of fruit juice may be used, or the 
 juices of various kinds of fruit may be combined. 
 
 
 Raspberry Granite. 
 
 This is made of three quarts of raspberries, the juice 
 of three lemons, one pint of sugar, and a quart of water. 
 
 Boil the sugar and water together for twenty minutes ; 
 then add the lemon juice and the juice of two quarts of 
 the raspberries. Set the liquid away to cool, and mean- 
 while pack a freezer the same as when ice-cream is to be 
 made. Pour the cooled mixture into the freezer, and 
 after putting on the cover, throw a blanket or a piece of 
 carpet over the freezer, and set away in a cool place. 
 After an hour has passed, scrape the frozen mixture from 
 the sides of the can ; but do not beat it, as the design is 
 to have a mass soft in some places and full of icy par- 
 ticles in others. About an hour and a half will be re- 
 quired for freezing the dish. At serving-time stir in the 
 third quart of berries, and send the granite to the table 
 in sorbet glasses. 
 
 Orange Granite. 
 
 Put a quart of sugar and a quart of boiling water into 
 a stew-pan, and set where they will boil rapidly for 
 twenty minutes. Pare twelve large oranges, and free 
 them of every particle of white skin ; then separate them 
 into sections, and remove the seeds. Put the fruit into 
 the boiling syrup, and allow it to remain over the fire 
 for five minutes ; then remove the stew-pan, and after 
 cooling the contents, drain the syrup into the tin can of 
 the ice-cream freezer. Pack the can in the tub, using 
 powdered ice and two quarts of salt. Set away for three 
 hours ; but during that period open the can three times 
 for the purpose of scraping the frozen syrup from the 
 
DESSERT. 691 
 
 sides. Be careful not to stir any more than is necessary, 
 for the mixture should freeze coarse and icy. At the end 
 of three hours add the oranges, and serve in glasses. 
 
 Coffee Granite. 
 
 Put half a cupful of fine-ground coffee into a biggin, 
 and pour upon it a little at a time a cupful and a 
 half of boiling water. When this has passed through 
 the filter, pour it back and filter it again. After the 
 second time, set the coffee away to cool. Put a pint of 
 sugar and a pint of boiling water into a small stew-pan, 
 and boil the mixture rapidly for twenty-five minutes. 
 Add the coffee to it, and set the liquid away to cool. 
 When it has become cold, add three pints of cream, and 
 pour into the can of an ice-cream freezer. Pack with 
 fine" ice and five pints of salt. When the dish has stood 
 for half an hour, open the can and scrape the frozen 
 mixture from the sides, mixing it with the soft part. 
 Continue to do this at intervals of a quarter of an hour 
 until the mixture becomes thick and icy. About an 
 hour and a half will be needed for the freezing. Ee- 
 member that no beating is required, as the dish should 
 not be smooth or creamy. Serve in sorbet glasses in the 
 middle of a luncheon or dinner. 
 
 Frozen Raspberries. 
 
 Use two quarts of raspberries, one pint of sugar, the 
 juice of one lemon, and one pint of water. 
 
 Mash the raspberries and sugar together, and let them 
 stand for two hours. At the end of that time add the 
 water and lemon juice. Freeze the same as ice-cream. 
 
 Blackberries are very good when frozen in this manner. 
 The juice of three lemons should be added. 
 
 Strawberries may be frozen in the same way as rasp- 
 berries. 
 
692 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Frozen Peaches. 
 
 For eight persons use one pint of sugar, one of boiling 
 water, and two quarts of ripe peaches, pared and sliced. 
 
 Put the water, sugar, and half a dozen cracked peach 
 stones in a stew-pan, and boil for a quarter of an hour ; 
 then rub the peaches through a puree sieve, and strain 
 the hot syrup on them. Stir well, and then cool. When 
 cold, freeze. 
 
 Apricots and pears may be frozen in the same way as 
 peaches. 
 
 Frozen Apples. 
 
 Put two quarts of water and a pint of sugar on to boil 
 in a large stew-pan. Boil for a quarter of an hour, and 
 then add ten large tart apples, pared, quartered, and 
 cored. Cook until the fruit will mash readily, say 
 about half an hour ; then break up with a spoon, and put 
 away to cool. When cold, freeze like ice-cream. The 
 mixture will be light and creamy when finished, and 
 makes a pleasing and cheap dessert, for a change. But 
 neither apples, peaches, nor apricots have character 
 enough to afford satisfaction if served very frequently 
 in this way. 
 
 The juice of three oranges is a great improvement if 
 added to the mixture before freezing. 
 
 FROZEN RAW FRUITS. 
 
 Any kind of soft ripe fruit may be frozen raw. These 
 fruits are not to be frozen hard, so the time that they 
 are kept in the freezer must not exceed two hours. The 
 less sugar there is with the fruit, the quicker will it 
 freeze. These fruits may be served at the beginning 
 of a dinner or luncheon, or in the middle of a dinner, 
 instead of a punch or sorbet. They are served also at 
 the beginning of fashionable breakfasts. 
 
DESSERT. 693 
 
 Frozen Watermelon. 
 
 Cut a watermelon into long strips. Remove the seeds, 
 and cut off the green rind. Now cut the pieces of melon 
 into two-inch squares. Place these in a freezer, and 
 pack in salt and ice. Let the fruit stand for about an 
 hour, as it is not to be frozen solid. Serve heaped in a 
 glass dish. 
 
 The pieces of melon may be sprinkled with sugar and 
 wine when they are put in the freezer. 
 
 Frozen Cantaloupe. 
 
 Wipe the melon, cut it in two lengthwise, and remove 
 the seeds. Now cut the fruit into long strips. Sprinkle 
 sugar and cinnamon on it, one table-spoonful of cin- 
 namon and six of sugar. Put these strips of fruit in'the 
 freezer, and pack in salt and ice. Let the freezer stand 
 for an hour and a half. Serve the cantaloupe on a 
 napkin. The seasoning may be omitted. 
 
 Frozen Oranges. 
 
 Pare one dozen sweet Florida oranges. With a sharp 
 knife, cut the fruit in thin slices, beginning at the stem 
 end. Sprinkle over these one cupful of sugar. Put in 
 the freezer, and keep packed in salt and ice two hours. 
 
 Frozen Oranges and Bananas. 
 
 Add three pared and thin-sliced bananas to one dozen 
 pared and sliced oranges. Sprinkle a cupful of sugar 
 over the fruit, and let it stand packed in salt and ice 
 for two hours. 
 
 Frozen Peaches. 
 
 Pare and halve ripe peaches. Over two quarts sprinkle 
 one cupful of sugar. Put in the freezer, and pack in 
 
694 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 salt and ice. Let them stand for two hours. Serve in 
 a glass dish. 
 
 Canned peaches and apricots may be frozen in the 
 same manner. 
 
 DESSERT FRUITS. 
 
 The ability to group fruits in such a manner that they 
 shall be beautiful pictures, as regards both color and 
 form, is not given to every one. It is only an artistic 
 eye and touch that can make a large dish of mixed fruits 
 a thing of beauty. The arrangement'of the fruit is, how- 
 ever, not all that is necessary to make it refreshing and 
 satisfying. It should be of good quality, and perfectly 
 ripe. All fresh fruits are better for being cold. Water- 
 melons, cantaloupes, and grapes are not fit to serve unless 
 thoroughly chilled. All other fresh fruits are improved 
 at least fifty per cent by standing in the refrigerator for 
 a few hours before serving-time. Apples, peaches, pears, 
 etc., should be wiped with a soft cloth. Small fruits 
 never should be washed, unless as is frequently the 
 case with strawberries they be sandy. In that case 
 put them (unhulled, if strawberries) into a wire basket 
 or the colander, and pour cold water over them. Let 
 them drain in the basket, and hull them just before 
 serving-time. 
 
 Watermelon. 
 
 Keep the melon on ice at least twelve hours before it 
 is served, better twenty-four. Wipe it with a soft 
 towel. Cut a slice from each end, and then cut the 
 melon in two across the centre. Cover a large flat dish 
 with either grape, fig, or mulberry leaves, and place the 
 halves of the melon on this green bed. When cut in 
 this manner, the melon is served in spoonfuls, which 
 should be scooped out symmetrically. 
 
 Another way is to cut off the ends as before ; then 
 cut the melon in two in the centre, having the dividing 
 
DESSERT. 695 
 
 line scalloped ; the points of one part, of course, fitting 
 into the notches of the other. Then, when the two pieces 
 are placed on end on a dish (that is why a slice is cut off 
 at the start), the upper part of each will be prettily 
 pointed. Serve in long slices. 
 
 Still another way is to serve the melon in round slices. 
 It is the most convenient, but the least attractive of the 
 three modes. 
 
 Cantaloupe. 
 
 Chill the melon, wipe it, and cut it in two lengthwise ; 
 then remove the seeds. Now cut it in long strips, run- 
 ning the knife in the grooves. Cover a platter with fig, 
 grape, or any other broad leaves. B Arrange the pieces 
 of cantaloupe on this bed, rind side down. Serve salt 
 with the fruit. 
 
 Pineapple. 
 
 Pare the pineapple, and with the point of a knife 
 cut out the eyes. Cut the fruit in thin round slices, and 
 chill on the ice. At serving-time sprinkle with sugar, 
 and arrange in a glass dish. 
 
 Another way is to cut the fruit into cubes, and sprinkle 
 with wine, using one gill of wine to a quart of the fruit. 
 Chill the pineapple, and then sprinkle with four table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar. Heap in a mound in a glass dish. 
 If the leaves of the pineapple be green and pretty, place 
 them in the centre of the mound. 
 
 A gill of orange juice may be substituted for the wine. 
 
 Strawberries and Raspberries. 
 
 Strawberries and raspberries should be heaped in a 
 pretty glass or china dish. Garnish with some of their 
 own green leaves. Never sprinkle sugar on them. Fine 
 ripe strawberries are often served with the stems on. In 
 this case a small dish of powdered sugar must be served 
 to each guest with the saucer of strawberries. The straw- 
 
696 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 berries are then taken in the fingers by the stem, and 
 dipped in the sugar. Only strawberries of the finest 
 quality should be served in this manner. 
 
 Blueberries and Blackberries. 
 
 Blueberries and blackberries are always more effective 
 in a pretty china dish than in glass. When they are 
 served in glass, garnish the border with green leaves if 
 possible. Some of the large plates that can be found in 
 all the Japanese stores are nice to serve these berries 
 in. The large shallow bowls found in the same places 
 also are appropriate for this purpose. 
 
 Oranges and Bananas. 
 
 Peel and slice six. oranges, cutting lengthwise, and 
 add to them three bananas, peeled, and cut in thin slices. 
 Sprinkle with four table-spoonfuls of sugar. Chill in 
 the refrigerator, and serve in a glass dish. 
 
 Crystallized Fruit. 
 
 Wipe bunches of grapes dry and clean, and pare sweet 
 oranges and divide them into sections. Beat the whites 
 of two eggs to a stiff froth, and beat two table-spoonfuls 
 of cold water into this froth. Dip the fruit into it, and 
 then roll it in granulated sugar. Place on a platter, and 
 set in a warm oven for three minutes ; then put away to 
 cool. 
 
 Any kind of fruit may be prepared in this manner. 
 Serve in a fruit-dish. If you have any green leaves, put 
 a few with the fruit. 
 
 Two Ways of Serving Currants. 
 
 During the summer and fall there is nothing better 
 for dessert than fresh fruit, served in its ordinary state, 
 or with sugar, or frozen, or in jellies. A pretty way to 
 
DESSERT. 697 
 
 serve currants is to fill the centre of a large glass dish 
 with broken ice, and tastefully arrange fresh currant leaves 
 around the ice, making a handsome bed on which to place 
 bunches of the fruit. Each person at the table should 
 be provided with a little powdered sugar, in which to 
 dip the currants before eating them from the stem. 
 
 Another nice way of serving this fruit is to dip it in 
 the beaten white of an egg and then in sugar, and let the 
 coating get dry before serving the currants. This pro- 
 duces a pretty effect, though the fruit will not be so 
 fresh and cool as when laid on ice. 
 
 Peaches. 
 
 Peaches should be pared and cut in halves. Arrange 
 them in a dish, and sprinkle with sugar, not more than 
 three table-spoonfuls to two dozen peaches. Serve at 
 once, as they grow dark if allowed to stand long after 
 being pared. They can be chilled before being pared 
 and cut. 
 
 When cut peaches are served for dessert, a spoonful of 
 some kind of cordial is sometimes poured over them. 
 It is best to let the guests do this themselves, since it 
 would spoil the dish for some people. 
 
 Apricots are served the same as peaches. 
 
 Cherries. 
 
 Cherries should be heaped in a large dish. They 
 should be in clusters if possible. Put green leaves here 
 and there on the dish. When served for breakfast they 
 may be arranged on a dish of broken ice. 
 
 Combinations. 
 
 Combinations of fruits are made in this way : Use a 
 large rather flat dish ; it may be high or low. Put a tum- 
 bler in the centre of the dish, open side up, and drape it 
 
698 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 with ferns or moss. Put a small t>ut handsome pine- 
 apple on the tumbler. Now arrange apples, oranges, 
 and bananas on the dish, being careful to reserve the 
 finest fruit for use later. Now build up with pears, 
 grapes, two or three colors, bananas, apples, and 
 oranges, and also plums, if in season. Insert a few 
 green leaves between the pieces of fruit. The dish must 
 look light and rather carelessly arranged, but the fruit 
 must be so placed that there shall be no danger of its 
 falling. If the bottom of the dish be covered with soft 
 moss the fruit may be more easily managed than on a 
 smooth surface. The real moss can be obtained at the 
 florists if one does not live near the woods, or the arti- 
 ficial moss may be used. In arranging this dish of fruit 
 be careful to combine the colors tastefully. The inser- 
 tion of a bit of green between two colors that do not 
 harmonize makes a remarkable improvement. 
 
 One need not feel restricted to the use of the fruits 
 mentioned. Use any kinds that are at hand. Mandarin 
 oranges are frequently used with good effect, their rich 
 color adding much to the attractiveness of the table. 
 
 A dish of fruit with ice is a pleasing feature on a 
 summer table. Use a very large Japanese plate and one 
 of the small Japanese bowls, a square one being the 
 best for this purpose. Place the bowl in the centre of 
 the dish, and arrange the fruit around it. Fill the bowl 
 with broken ice. Put long sprays of fern in the bowl 
 near the edge, letting them droop over the fruit. The 
 ferns for this decoration should be delicate. 
 
 In the winter, when one cannot get green leaves with 
 which to decorate dishes of oranges, apples, pears, etc., 
 the mountain laurel leaves will be found very effective. 
 One can get large bunches of them early in the winter. 
 They should be kept in a large jar with plenty of fresh 
 water. Sprinkle them once a week. A few bright flowers 
 in a large bunch of these leaves make a handsome 
 decoration for table or sideboard. This laurel abounds 
 
DESSERT. 699 
 
 in the woods of Connecticut and Western Massachusetts. 
 It is sold in the New York markets at Christmas time. 
 Holly makes a pretty decoration for fruit ; indeed, any 
 of the broad-leaved evergreens are desirable in winter 
 for this purpose. 
 
 Serving Nuts. 
 
 Nuts, when to go with raisins, are usually served in 
 the shells. When the shells are hard, like those of 
 walnuts, they should be cracked before being served. 
 There is a variety of tastes in regard to almonds, which 
 are sometimes served in the shell, sometimes shelled but 
 not blanched, and sometimes blanched. When they are 
 served in the shell the paper-shell almonds should be 
 used. Blanching the almond changes its flavor some- 
 what, and really spoils it for a dessert nut if it be served 
 without any other preparation. The raisins should be 
 in handsome clusters, and the nuts should be sprinkled 
 among them. 
 
 Salt is often eaten with filberts. It is well to have it 
 on the table when nuts of any kind are served. 
 
 Almonds are cooked in various ways and served with 
 dessert. French chestnuts are roasted and served with 
 salt. 
 
 Small fancy cakes, confectionery, French candied 
 fruit, preserved ginger, etc., are served for dessert. 
 
 Salted Almonds. 
 
 Shell a quantity of almonds, and blanch by pouring 
 boiling water over them, letting them stand in it for a 
 moment, then throwing them into cold water, and finally 
 rubbing them between the hands. For each cupful of 
 nuts that is put into a bowl, add a table-spoonful of 
 melted butter or of salad oil. Stir the almonds well, 
 and let them stand for an hour ; then sprinkle with salt, 
 allowing a table-spoonful for each cupful of nuts. Put 
 
700 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 the almonds in a clean baking-pan and into a moderate 
 oven, and let them bake giving them a stirring occa- 
 sionally until. they turn a delicate brown. In about 
 a quarter of an hour they should be crisp. They may 
 require a slight sprinkling of salt as they come from the 
 oven. They should be placed on the table at the begin- 
 ning of the dinner, and served with the crackers and 
 cheese. 
 
 Sugared Almonds. 
 
 Blanch one cupful of almonds. Put half a cupful of 
 boiling water and half a cupful of sugar into a saucepan. 
 Place on the fire and boil for fifteen minutes ; then add 
 the almonds, and boil for about five minutes longer, stir- 
 ring all the time. When the sugar grains, turn the 
 almonds on a dish to cool. 
 
 Glazed Almonds. 
 
 Blanch and cook the nuts the same as sugared 
 almonds. Continue the cooking after the sugar grains 
 until it begins to brown. Now add a gill of boiling 
 water, and continue cooking until all the water has evap- 
 orated. The almonds will then be a rich dark brown. 
 Spread them in a shallow pan, and let them dry in the 
 oven. 
 
 Caramel Almonds. 
 
 Blanch a cupful of almonds, and add to them two 
 table-spoonfuls of melted butter. Place the cup on the 
 back of the range for an hour. At the end of that time 
 drain the nuts, and spread in a shallow pan. Cook them 
 in a moderate oven for about fifteen minutes. Put three 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar in a small frying-pan, and stir 
 over the fire until the sugar turns liquid. Instantly 
 add the browned almonds, and stir for half a minute. 
 Spread them on a platter to cool. 
 
DESSERT. 701 
 
 Iced Fruit. 
 
 Put in a saucepan one cupful of sugar, half a cupful 
 of boiling water, and half a saltspoonf ul of cream-of-tartar 
 and boil for fifteen minutes. Take a drop of the syrup 
 on the point of a skewer, and after dipping it in cold 
 water, roll it between the fingers. If it forms a soft ball 
 the syrup is cooked enough. If, however, it melts away, 
 the syrup must be cooked a little longer and a drop of 
 it be tested again. A minute's extra boiling makes a 
 good deal of difference. When the syrup is done, pour it 
 into a dish, and let it stand until you can bear your hands 
 in it. Stir it until it begins to thicken; then work it 
 with the hands until a smooth, soft paste is formed. It 
 may harden at first, but it will soften with the working. . 
 When it is smooth and slightly elastic, it is ready for 
 use. 
 
 Have at hand some nuts, grapes, sections of oranges, 
 etc., free of moisture. Oil a platter lightly with washed 
 butter. Put some of the creamed sugar in a small 
 saucepan or bowl. Place this in a pan of boiling water, 
 and let it stand on the fire until the cream is melted. 
 With a pair of confectioners' tongs or sugar-tongs, 
 dip the fruit one piece at a time in the icing, 
 and then lay it on the oiled dish. All the creamed sugar 
 may be used at once, or a part may be put aside for use 
 another time. 
 
 Roasted Chestnuts. 
 
 Wash some French chestnuts. Make a slit in one 
 side of the shell, that it may be opened readily. Put 
 the nuts in a stew-pan with boiling water enough to cover 
 them, and boil for ten minutes. Now drain them, and 
 spread in a dripping-pan. Bake in a hot oven for ten 
 minutes, and serve at once in a folded napkin. 
 
 Salt is sometimes eaten with these chestnuts. They 
 
702 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 must not be allowed to cool when taken from the water 
 before they are put into the oven. 
 
 Although the simplest form in which French chest- 
 nuts are served, this is also the most satisfactory. Too 
 much cooking makes them tough and soggy. 
 
 JELLIES. 
 
 Jellies are so much used on the every-day table and 
 in the sick-room that it is essential that every house- 
 keeper should understand how to make them easily. 
 Before gelatine was made so good and sold at such 
 reasonable prices many other substances were generally 
 used for the sake of the gelatine they contained. 
 Calves' feet, which are still used a great deal, were the 
 principal substance employed ; but pigs' feet, pigs' skin, 
 sheep's feet, cows' feet, etc., were common ingredients 
 in these jellies. Of course, jellies made with foundations 
 of this description had to be carefully cleared. Jelly- 
 making in these days was a matter of much labor and 
 time. 
 
 With good gelatine the making of a jelly to-day is 
 the work of a few minutes, unless one wish to have a 
 sparkling jelly. Even in that case the whole time em- 
 ployed in making it need not exceed three-quarters of 
 an hour. 
 
 Gelatine has some peculiarities which many house- 
 keepers do not understand. . If it be kept for a long time 
 in a warm place, say where the temperature is from 110 
 to 150, a disagreeable odor and flavor will be developed. 
 
 Many housekeepers cover gelatine with water, and 
 place it on the hearth or on the back part of the range 
 to dissolve slowly. Such gelatine will nearly always be 
 found to have a strong odor and flavor, spoiling whatever 
 it is mixed with. Gelatine should always be soaked in 
 cold water and in a cool place. 
 
 In making jellies, if the gelatine be soaked for two 
 
DESSERT. 
 
 703 
 
 hours or more in its own volume of cold water, and then 
 dissolved in hot water, and there be added to this liquid 
 some pure granulated or loaf sugar and wine or clear 
 fruit juice, a clear jelly will be the result, if it be strained 
 through a flannel or a napkin. The sugar must, of course, 
 be fully dissolved ; and it is a good plan to place the 
 bowl containing the preparation in a pan of boiling 
 water, and stir the mixture over the fire until it looks 
 clear ; then strain. 
 
 To Clear Jellies. 
 
 When a sparkling jelly is desired it must be cleared 
 with the white of egg. This is a simple operation, but 
 it is easy to make a failure of it. 
 
 For three pints of jelly use the whites of two eggs. 
 Beat them until they are light ; but the beating must 
 cease before a stiff, 
 dry froth is formed. 
 Add one cupful of 
 the jelly to them, 
 and beat for a min- 
 ute longer. Stir 
 this into the jelly, 
 and place the liquid 
 on the lire where it 
 will heat slowly. 
 When it begins to 
 bubble set the stew- 
 pan back where the 
 jelly will keep at 
 the boiling-point for 
 half an hour. Keep 
 
 Jelly-strainer. 
 
 the stew-pan covered. At the end of the half-hour pour 
 the jelly through a fine strainer. Dip a flannel bag in 
 hot water, and after wringing it, fasten it to a frame 
 similar to that shown above. Place a bowl under it. 
 
704 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Pour the jelly into the bag, and let it filter through 
 into the bowl. It will be found to be clear and bright. 
 
 There are two causes of failure in clearing jellies. 
 The white of the egg is apt to be beaten so dry that it 
 does not mix with the liquid, or to be beaten so little 
 that the greater part of it hardens in a smooth mass, 
 which cannot clear the liquid because there are so few 
 rough points to which the impurities may cling. The egg 
 must be beaten so well that it is broken into minute 
 particles, but at the same time it must be so loose that 
 the particles will separate readily in the liquid. The 
 second cause of failure is letting the jelly boil rapidly. 
 It must only bubble, and be kept at the boiling-point 
 for at least half an hour. 
 
 When jellies are cleared with the white of an egg they 
 are never so firm nor of so rich a flavor providing the 
 same quantities of material are used as when they 
 are made without clearing. It is best to use a little more 
 gelatine than when making the uncooked jelly. 
 
 Removal of Tellies from Moulds. 
 
 Some suggestions in regard to the removal of jellies 
 and blanc-mange from moulds may be acceptable. It 
 may be well to say first, however, that if either be wanted 
 in a hurry, the hardening of the liquid may be hastened 
 by putting the mould into a pan, surrounding it with ice 
 and water, and setting the pan in a cool place. 
 
 It frequently happens that jelly or blanc-mange splits 
 as soon as it is turned out upon a dish. This is owing 
 to one of two things: the mould is moved during the 
 process of congealing, or its contents are jarred when 
 being removed to a plate. While blanc-mange or jelly 
 is in a liquid state it does no harm to move it, but after 
 either has become partly hardened, a slight jarring is 
 almost certain to result in a split when the time comes 
 for turning out and serving. Heat some water to the 
 
DESSERT. 705 
 
 temperature of about 105, and dip the mould into it. 
 There should be enough to come to the brim. Keep the 
 mould in the water long enough to melt the congealed 
 substance slightly. If the mould be tin, half a minute 
 will be time enough ; if it be earthenware, from one to 
 two minutes will be needed. Wipe the mould carefully 
 on lifting it from the .water, and, tipping a little to one 
 side, loosen the edge of the contents with a knife. Now 
 place a flat dish over the open part of the mould, and 
 turn dish and mould simultaneously. Hold both in that 
 position for a moment, and gently raise the mould. A 
 little practice will make one perfect. 
 
 Moulding and Serving Jellies. 
 
 The manner in which jellies are moulded and served 
 adds a great deal to the attractiveness of the table. Any 
 kind of ripe, well-flavored fruit may be imbedded in a 
 mould of jelly. Pour a thin layer of the jelly in the 
 mould, and let it harden. Put in a layer of fruit, and 
 wet it with some of the liquid jelly. Let this stand until 
 it hardens ; then cover with jelly, and when this is hard, 
 put in another layer of fruit, and proceed as before. 
 Various colored jellies may be combined in layers; or 
 the first layer may be allowed only partially to cool, and 
 when the second is poured in, it should be by spoonfuls. 
 This will give marbled jelly. 
 
 Two kinds of jelly, like a pink and a light-colored one, 
 may be cooled in thin sheets on large platters, and then 
 be cut into tiny squares. Heap the pink jelly in the 
 centre of a large glass dish, and surround it with the 
 lighter kind. The effect is very pretty. Or the jelly 
 may be served In. orange baskets. 
 
 To make orange baskets, select well-shaped oranges. 
 Place them on a board, stem end up. With a small, sharp 
 knife, cut on each side of the stem about half through 
 the orange, leaving a strip about half an inch broad 
 
 46 
 
706 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 for the handle. Cut the orange transversely on both 
 sides, and remove the pieces. Work a teaspoon between 
 the pulp and the skin, being careful not to break the 
 skin. Remove the pulp, and the basket is finished. It 
 may be made much more attractive by 
 scalloping the edges and handle ; or if one 
 have time and ability to carve the basket 
 delicately, so much the better. The baskets 
 orange Basket. ma j be placed in a pan of pounded ice and 
 filled with the liquid jelly, or be filled with 
 chopped jelly at serving-time. 
 
 Another way is to let the jelly begin to thicken in 
 the bowl; then stir in preserved fruit, cut fine. Fill 
 the baskets, and let them stand in a cool place for sev- 
 eral hours. 
 
 Jelly in oranges is a dainty dish. Cut a piece from 
 the end of the orange. The hole must be only large 
 enough to insert a teaspoon. With the point of a small, 
 sharp knife, cut into the pulp, being careful not to cut 
 the orange skin. Remove the pulp with a teaspoon, 
 scraping the inside of the skin very clean. Soak the 
 skins for an hour in cold water; then drain and wipe 
 them. Place them in a flat pan, and pack pounded ice 
 around them. Fill with liquid jelly, and set in a cold 
 place for several hours. At serving-time arrange them 
 on a flat dish, the open side down. Garnish the dish 
 with green leaves or ferns. Or the oranges may be cut 
 in halves or quarters, arranged on a napkin, and deco- 
 rated with a border of green leaves. 
 
 Another way is to cut good-sized oranges in two, 
 remove the pulp, and fill one-half with jelly, and the 
 other with Bavarian cream. At serving-time put the 
 halves together, and tie them with bright ribbons. 
 
 Jelly may be chilled in a border-mould, and when it 
 is served the centre may be filled with whipped cream 
 or a Bavarian cream. The border may be decorated 
 with any kind of fruit. Or a jelly may be chilled in 
 
DESSERT. 707 
 
 several small moulds, and be used to decorate a charlotte 
 russe or a mould of Bavarian cream. 
 
 Wine Jelly. 
 
 For three pints of jelly use one package of gelatine, 
 one sheet of pink isinglass, one pint of sherry or Madeira, 
 one pint of sugar, a generous pint and a half of water, 
 two lemons, one clove, a two-inch piece of stick cinna- 
 mon, and the whites of two eggs. 
 
 Soak the gelatine and isinglass in half a pint of cold 
 water for two hours. Put in a stew-pan the soaked gela- 
 tine, the thin yellow rind of one lemon, and the juice of 
 both, the wine, water, spice, and beaten whites of the 
 eggs. Place on the fire, and stir for ten minutes. Watch 
 carefully, and when the jelly bubbles, draw the pan back 
 where the contents will keep just at the boiling-point. 
 Cover, and let it stand for half an hour. At the end of 
 that time pour it through a strainer, and then through 
 the flannel bag. If the jelly be preferred light, omit the 
 spice and pink isinglass. Pour the jelly into one large 
 mould, or several small ones, and set away in a cold 
 place to harden. It will take about six or eight hours. 
 
 * Orange Jelly. 
 
 Use the grated rind of two oranges and one pint of 
 strained juice, a pint and a half of water, one pint of 
 sugar, the juice of two lemons, one package of gelatine, 
 and the whites of two eggs. 
 
 Soak the gelatine for two hours in half a pint of cold 
 water. Grate the orange rind into a bowl, and pour the 
 juice on it. Let this stand for about two hours. Beat 
 the whites 01 the eggs, and stir them into the orange 
 juice. Put all the ingredients into a stew-pan, and stir 
 over the fire for ten minutes. When the liquid bubbles, 
 draw back, cover, and keep at the boiling-point for half 
 an hour. Strain and mould. 
 
708 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Lemon Jelly. 
 
 Use half a pint of lemon juice, the grated yellow rind 
 of one lemon, one pint of sugar, a quart and one gill of 
 water, one package of gelatine, and the whites of two 
 eggs. Make the same as orange jelly. 
 
 Combination Jelly. 
 
 For this dish there must be prepared three kinds of 
 jelly. The materials required are : one package of gela- 
 tine, one ounce of pink isinglass, three cupfuls of sugar, 
 one pint of wine, one gill of Maraschino, the juice 
 of three lemons, three pints and a gill of water, and 
 one ounce of candied angelica. 
 
 Divide the gelatiae into two parts, and put each part 
 into a bowl with a gill of cold water. Soak for two 
 hours. Soak the pink isinglass with a gill of water in a 
 third bowl. At the end of two hours pour a pint of 
 boiling water on one of the portions of soaked gelatine. 
 Stir until the gelatine is dissolved, and add one cupful 
 of the sugar and the juice of one lemon. Place the 
 bowl in a pan of boiling water for ten minutes, and stir 
 the contents frequently. Now add the Maraschino, and 
 strain through a napkin. Place a two-quart mould in a 
 large pan, and surround it with broken ice. Pour a 
 layer of the jelly, about half an inch deep, into the 
 mould, and let it harden. Cut the angelica in thin 
 slices and decorate the layer of jelly with it. Wet the 
 fruit with four table-spoonfuls of the liquid jelly. 
 When this has hardened pour in the remainder of the 
 jelly. Place in a cool room to harden. 
 
 Now pour three gills of boiling water on the remain- 
 ing half of the gelatine. Add one cupful of the sugar, 
 the juice of one lemon, and half a pint of wine. Place 
 the bowl in a pan of boiling water for ten minutes. Stir 
 
DESSERT. 709 
 
 frequently, and then strain through a napkin. Let this 
 cool, but not congeal. 
 
 When the Maraschino jelly is firm, add this wine 
 jelly, and let the mould stand until it hardens. Mean- 
 while pour three gills of boiling water on the pink 
 isinglass. Add the remainder of the other materials 
 and treat the same as the other jellies. When this 
 preparation is cold, but not congealed, fill up the mould 
 with it. Let this stand for several hours. Serve with 
 a border of whipped cream. The jelly must be served 
 on a large dish, and the whipped cream should be heaped 
 about the jelly without touching it. 
 
 * Coffee Jelly. 
 
 For a three-pint mould of jelly use half a cupful of 
 coffee, ground fine, three pints of water, one pint of 
 sugar, and one package of gelatine. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in half a pint of cold water for two 
 hours. Put the coffee in a small biggin or in a pointed 
 flannel bag; hanging the latter, in case it be used, in an 
 ordinary coffee-pot. Pour half a gill of boiling water on 
 the coffee ; then cover the pot and let it stand for five 
 minutes. At the end of that time add another half-gill 
 of boiling water, and let the pot stand for five minutes 
 longer. Now add boiling water, a gill at a time, until a 
 pint has been used. When all the water has passed 
 through, pour half a pint of the filtered coffee into the 
 measure, and pour this on the coffee. The biggin should 
 stand in a pan of boiling water to keep the coffee hot 
 while it is being made. 
 
 Now pour a pint and a half of boiling water on the 
 soaked gelatine. Add the sugar, and next the filtered 
 coffee. Stir until all the solid ingredients are dissolved ; 
 then strain through a napkin or a flannel bag. Turn 
 into moulds, and set away in a cold place for six or eight 
 hours. Serve with sugar and whipped cream. 
 
710 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Dantzic Jelly. 
 
 This is made of a package of gelatine, one pint of 
 sugar, the juice of two lemons, half a pint of cold water, 
 one quart of boiling water, half a pint of Eau-de-vie de 
 Dantzic, and four table-spoonfuls of brandy. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in the cold water for two hours. 
 Put it in a large bowl, and pour the boiling water on it. 
 Add the sugar and the juice of the lemons. Place the 
 bowl in a pan of boiling water and on the fire, and let it 
 stand for about ten minutes, stirring the contents fre- 
 quently. Mix the gold leaf through the cordial, and 
 then measure the half-pint. Let this stand while the 
 jelly is being strained, that the gold leaf may settle. 
 Add the brandy to the jelly, and strain through a flannel 
 bag or a napkin. Now add the Eau-de-vie to the strained 
 jelly, being careful, however, to keep back the gold leaf 
 that has settled in the bottom of the measure. Mix this 
 with one pint of the jelly, and after setting the bowl in 
 ice-water, stir the jelly until it is so cold that it shows 
 signs of congealing. Pour this into the moulds, two 
 moulds, each holding a pint and a half, are good for this 
 purpose. Place the moulds in ice-water, and when the 
 gold-leaf jelly is partially congealed, fill the moulds 
 with the remainder of the jelly. Set away to harden. 
 
 The gold leaf is added to a small portion of jelly, and 
 chilled in the manner described, that it may show to the 
 greatest advantage in the moulds. The brandy may be 
 omitted. 
 
 Maraschino Jelly. 
 
 The materials are : one package of gelatine, one quart 
 of boiling water, half a pint of cold water, one pint of 
 sugar, the juice of two lemons, and half a pint of 
 Maraschino. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in the cold water for two hours. 
 Put it in a large bowl, and pour the boiling water on it. 
 Add the lemon juice and sugar, and place the bowl in a 
 
DESSERT. 711 
 
 pan of boiling water and on the fire. Stir for ten min- 
 utes ; then add the Maraschino, and strain. This jelly 
 may be poured into moulds and hardened the same as 
 any jelly, or it may be combined with various fruits, 
 which is by far the better way. The jelly is of such a 
 delicate color that it takes the shade of the fruit im- 
 bedded in it. 
 
 Maraschino Jelly with Peaches. 
 
 Make the jelly as directed in the preceding receipt. 
 Put a two-quart mould in a deep pan, and surround it 
 with ice. Cover the bottom of the mould about two 
 inches deep with the jelly. Drain six halves of canned 
 peaches ; the peaches must be large and ripe. When the 
 layer of jelly has hardened, put in three pieces of the 
 peaches, having the outside rest on the jelly. Pour in 
 one gill of the liquid jelly, and let it stand until it hardens. 
 Now cover the peaches with the jelly. When this new 
 ]ayer is nearly hard, put in the remainder of the peaches. 
 Add a gill of jelly, and let it harden ; then fill the mould 
 with the rest of the jelly, and set away to harden. 
 
 Maraschino Jelly with Angelica. 
 
 Make the jelly, and put a layer about an inch deep in 
 a mould. When this is cold, decorate with thin slices of 
 angelica. Pour three table-spoonfuls of jelly over this, 
 and wait until it is set. Now fill the mould with the 
 liquid jelly, and set away to harden. 
 
 Any kind of candied green fruit may be used. The 
 effect of the- green color in the jelly is remarkably beau- 
 tiful; it is like moonlight. The dish might be called 
 " moonlight " jelly with perfect propriety. 
 
 Candied cherries may be used instead of the green 
 fruit. Three small moulds could be made, using three 
 kinds of fruit. 
 
712 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Russian Jelly. 
 
 This is made of half a package of gelatine, the juice 
 of two lemons, the juice of two oranges, half a pint of 
 wine, half a pint of sugar, a pint of boiling water, a 
 gill of cold water, and a generous pint of strawberries or 
 raspberries. 
 
 After soaking the gelatine in the cold water for two 
 hours, pour upon it the pint of boiling water, and stir until 
 the gelatine is dissolved ; then add the sugar and all other 
 ingredients except the berries. Strain the mixture, and 
 set the basin which contains it into another basin of ice- 
 water. Stir the liquid occasionally until it becomes cold 
 and begins to congeal ; then beat it with an egg-beater 
 until it will scarcely run from the basin. 
 
 Rinse a mould in cold water, and, after pouring in a 
 little of the whipped jelly, sprinkle a few berries into 
 the mould. Continue to put in jelly and berries until 
 the supply is exhausted ; then set the mould away for 
 some hours. At serving-time dip it into warm water, and 
 turn the jelly out on a flat dish. Serve soft custard 
 with it. 
 
 Other ripe fruits besides those mentioned may be 
 jellied in this way. Pineapples, bananas, or peaches, 
 cut fine, are nice. In winter candied fruits may be used, 
 and preserved quince gives a delicious dish. 
 
 * Raspberry Jelly. 
 
 This is made of three pints of raspberries, one pint of 
 sugar, the juice of two lemons, half a pint of cold water, 
 one pint and one-third of boiling water, and one package 
 of gelatine. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in cold water for two hours. Mash 
 the raspberries and sugar together, and let the mixture 
 stand for two hours; then press all the juice through a 
 fine strainer. Pour the boiling water upon the gelatine, 
 and stir until the gelatine is dissolved; then add the 
 
DESSERT. 713 
 
 strained juice and the lemon juice. Strain through a 
 napkin, and pour into moulds. When cold, set in an ice- 
 chest for four or five hours, so that the jelly may become 
 firm. 
 
 Neapolitan Jelly. 
 
 Divide a package of Cox's gelatine into halves, and put 
 each half into a bowl with half a cupful of cold water. 
 Put three-quarters of an ounce, or six sheets, of pink gela- 
 tine into a third bowl containing three-fourths of a cup- 
 ful of cold water. Cover the bowls to keep out the dust, 
 and set them away for two hours. At the end of that time 
 add a pint of boiling water, a cupful of sugar, half a pint 
 of wine, and the juice of a lemon to the pink gelatine, 
 and, after stirring till the gelatine is dissolved, strain the 
 liquid through a napkin. Treat one of the other portions 
 of the gelatine in the same way. 
 
 Beat together the yolks of four eggs and half a cupful 
 of sugar, and, after adding this mixture to the third 
 portion of gelatine, stir the new mixture into a pint and 
 a third of boiling milk contained in a double-boiler. 
 Stir on the fire for three minutes ; then strain through 
 a fine sieve, and flavor with a teaspoonful of vanilla 
 extract. 
 
 Place in a deep pan two moulds, each holding about 
 three pints, and surround them with ice and water. 
 Pour into these moulds, in equal parts, the wine jelly 
 which was made with the clear gelatine, and set it away 
 to harden. When it has become set, pour in the pink 
 gelatine, which should have been set away in a place 
 not cold enough to make it harden. After it has been 
 transferred and has become hard, pour into the moulds 
 the mixture of eggs, sugar, and gelatine, which should 
 be in a liquid state. Set the moulds in an ice-chest for 
 three or four hours. At serving-time dip them into 
 tepid water to loosen the contents, and gently turn the 
 jelly out upon flat dishes. 
 
714 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 The clear jelly may be made first and poured into 
 moulds, then the pink jelly, and finally the egg jelly. 
 
 Jellied Peaches. 
 
 Provide first a dozen good-sized peaches, and then half 
 a box of gelatine, a cupful and a half of sugar, and a pint 
 and a half of water. Soak the gelatine for two hours in 
 half a cupful of the water. At the end of that time put 
 the sugar and the remaining water into a stew-pan, and 
 then let them boil for five minutes. Pare the peaches, 
 and cut them in halves ; then cook them gently in the 
 boiling syrup for ten minutes. On taking the stew-pan 
 from the fire, turn the soaked gelatine into it ; then set 
 it in another basin containing cold water, and stir occa- 
 sionally util the mixture becomes cool. Before the 
 jelly has had time to congeal, dip a mould into cold 
 water, and turn the mixture into it. Set in a cool place 
 for three or four hours. At serving-time dip the mould 
 into warm water, and turn the contents out on a flat 
 dish. Serve with whipped cream or soft custard, heaped 
 or poured around the jelly. 
 
 Probably many people will think the flavor is im- 
 proved by the addition of a table-spoonful of brandy or 
 Maraschino when the gelatine is put with the fruit. 
 
 Jellied Oranges. 
 
 Eight large Florida oranges, a package of gelatine, a 
 pint of sugar, a pint of sherry, three lemons, and a quart 
 of water are combined to produce this dish. 
 
 Soak the gelatine for two hours in half a pint of cold 
 water ; then boil the remaining water, and pour it upon 
 the gelatine. Add the sugar and the juice of the lemon ; 
 and after stirring until all the solid ingredients are dis- 
 solved, strain the liquid through a napkin. Have ready 
 a two-quart mould, and pour into it enough of the mix- 
 
DESSERT. 715 
 
 ture to make a layer an inch deep. Set the mould in a 
 pan, and put ice and a little water around it. 
 
 Pare the oranges, and with a sharp blade slice them 
 carefully, rejecting all the seeds and the core. When 
 the jelly is hard, lay the sliced oranges on it, keeping 
 them slightly away from the sides of the mould. Pour 
 the remainder of the jelly over the fruit, and set away 
 in a cold place. At serving-time dip the mould into 
 warm (not hot) water, in order to loosen the jelly, and 
 turn out on a flat dish. Serve with or without whipped 
 cream, as you fancy. This dish should stand seven or 
 eight hours to get perfectly hard. 
 
 A quicker way to prepare oranges in jelly is to put 
 them into a deep glass dish, and pour the jelly over 
 them. 
 
 * Jellied Apples. 
 
 Use two quarts of nice, tart apples, peeled, quartered, 
 and cored, two cupfuls of sugar, a lemon, half a package 
 of gelatine, and one pint and a half of water. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in half a cupful of the water for two 
 hours. Put the sugar, lemon juice, and the remainder 
 of the water on the stove, and boil rapidly for ten min- 
 utes; then put in as many apples as may be cooked 
 without crowding. Cook gently until so tender that they 
 can be pierced with a broom straw ; then take up with 
 a skimmer, and spread on a plate. Put more apples 
 into the stew-pan, and continue cooking until all are 
 done. 
 
 When the last of the fruit has been taken up, remove 
 the pan from the fire, and put the gelatine into it. Stir 
 until the gelatine is dissolved ; then place the stew-pan ' 
 in a basin containing ice-water, and stir until the con- 
 tents become cool. Put in the apples, and mix gently ; 
 then turn into a mould, and set in a cold place to harden. 
 Serve with sugar and whipped cream or with soft 
 custard. 
 
716 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Jellied Prunes. 
 
 Use one pint of prunes, a pint and a half of water, 
 half a package of gelatine, half a pint of wine, and half 
 a pint of sugar. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in one gill of the water for two hours. 
 Wash the prunes in several waters, rubbing them well 
 between the hands. Put them in a stew-pan with five 
 gills of water, and cook slowly for one hour. Take up 
 the prunes, and remove the stones. Return the fruit to 
 the water in the stew-pan, and let it boil up. Add the 
 gelatine, and take from the fire. Stir until the gelatine 
 is dissolved; then add the sugar and wine. Place the 
 stew-pan in a pan of ice-water, and stir the preparation 
 until it begins to thicken. Pour into a mould, and set 
 in a cool place to harden. It should stand for four or 
 five hours. Serve with soft custard or whipped cream. 
 
 Mac6doine of Fruit. 
 
 It takes but few materials and little time to make this 
 fashionable dish for dessert. Pare half a dozen oranges, 
 and cut them in thin slices, lengthwise. Peel two ba- 
 nanas, and cut them in thin round slices. Put a layer of 
 orange in a glass dish, and then one of the sliced bananas, 
 and sprinkle with sugar and Maraschino. Continue mak- 
 ing alternate layers until all of the fruit has been used ; 
 then sprinkle a cupful of grated cocoanut over the dish. 
 Half a cupful of sugar and four table-spoonfuls of Maras- 
 chino will suffice for the flavoring. 
 
 When peaches, strawberries, raspberries, and apricots 
 are in season, they may be used in a mace*doine. 
 
 Peach Chartreuse. 
 
 Although it requires considerable space to tell how to 
 make a fruit chartreuse, the actual work does not call 
 for extraordinary skill on the part of the housekeeper. 
 
DESSERT. 717 
 
 She must use a box and a quarter of gelatine, half a gill 
 of Maraschino, one pint of sugar, one quart of crearn, one 
 quart of ripe peaches, a lemon, one pint of boiling water, 
 and three gills of cold water. 
 
 Soak three-fifths of the gelatine for two hours in a 
 bowl containing two gills of cold water, and soak the 
 remaining gelatine in the third gill of water. At the eud 
 of the two hours pour the boiling water upon the larger 
 quantity of gelatine ; and when the latter has dissolved, 
 add half a pint of sugar, the Maraschino, and the juice 
 of the lemon. Stir until the sugar dissolves, and strain 
 through a napkin. Pour into a two-quart charlotte- 
 mould enough of the liquid to cover the bottom to the 
 depth of half an inch, and after placing the mould in a 
 pan, surround it with ice. Let the remainder of the 
 jelly stand where it will keep cool without congealing. 
 
 Pare the peaches, and cut some of the ripest and hand- 
 somest in thin round slices, enough to make a circle 
 on the bottom of the mould. Cut the remainder of the 
 fruit in small pieces, and mash it with the half-pint of 
 sugar. Let the mixture stand for at least half an hour 
 better longer. 
 
 When the layer of jelly has hardened in the mould, 
 arrange the slices of peach tastefully upon it, and moisten 
 them with three table-spoonfuls of the liquid jelly. Let 
 this harden (it will require only about ten minutes, if 
 the mould be set in a cold place) ; then completely cover 
 the peaches with the liquid jelly, and let the dish stand 
 until this layer gets hard. Set a quart mould in the 
 centre of the larger mould, and fill it with ice and water. 
 Into the space between the two moulds pour the remainder 
 of the liquid jelly, and carefully put away the moulds 
 in order that the jelly may harden. If they be put in 
 a cool place, and the outer mould be surrounded with 
 ice and water, the jelly will harden in two hours ; but 
 it is well, if possible, to let it stand for three or four 
 hours. 
 
718 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Next whip the cream. A quart will yield three quarts 
 of whipped cream, and there will be about a gill of un- 
 whipped cream left for use with coffee or chocolate. 
 Place the whipped cream where it will keep cool, and 
 as soon as the jelly in the mould is hard, put the peaches 
 and sugar on the fire. Heat slowly, and when the mix- 
 ture gets boiling hot, add the soaked gelatine. Take 
 from the fire immediately, and stir until the gelatine is 
 dissolved. 
 
 Now remove the ice, and nearly all the water from 
 the small mould, and pour in enough warm water to 
 make the entire quantity blood warm, and to raise the 
 level almost to the top of the mould. As soon as the 
 jelly begins to melt from the heat of the water, gently 
 raise the mould. 
 
 Set the basin containing the peach and gelatine into 
 a pan of ice-water, and as soon as the mixture gets cool, 
 add a quart of whipped cream. Stir gently until the 
 liquid becomes so thick that it will scarcely flow freely 
 from the spoon when it is raised ; then turn it into the 
 space left by the removal of the small mould from the 
 jelly. Set away for half an hour, and it will then be 
 ready to serve. At serving-time put the mould in a 
 pan of blood-warm water for about twenty seconds, and 
 then wipe it. Place a flat dish upside down, over the 
 opening of the mould, and turn the dish and mould simul- 
 taneously. Hold them still for a moment, and then raise 
 the mould slowly, leaving the chartreuse on the dish. 
 Heap the whipped cream around it. 
 
 * Apple Float. 
 
 The materials required are : four eggs, a pint of milk, 
 a cupful of stewed and strained tart apple, half a cupful 
 of powdered sugar, and half a teaspoonful of vanilla 
 extract. 
 
 Reserve half a cupful of the milk, and put the remainder 
 on the fire in a double-boiler. Beat together all the yolks 
 
DESSERT. 719 
 
 and one of the whites of the eggs, and add to them the 
 cold milk and half the sugar. Stir well, and after pour- 
 ing the boiling milk over it, put the mixture into the 
 double-boiler. Stir constantly for five minutes; and if 
 at the end of that time the mixture be thick and smooth, 
 take it from the fire immediately. Turn into the bowl, 
 and set away to cool ; and when it is cold, add the vanilla 
 flavoring, and turn into a deep glass dish. 
 
 Beat the whites of the three eggs to a stiff froth, and 
 beat the remaining sugar into this froth. Next beat in 
 the strained apple ; and when the mixture is light and 
 smooth, heap it in the centre of the custard. 
 
 Other floats may be made in a similar way, using rasp- 
 berries, strawberries, peaches, cherries, apricots, etc. But 
 if preserved fruit be taken, use only a quarter of a 
 cupful. 
 
 * Apple Trifle. 
 
 The materials are : three pints of pared, cored, and 
 quartered apples, half a pint of water, one cupful of 
 sugar, a slight grating of nutmeg, and three pints of 
 whipped cream. 
 
 Put the water in the stew-pan and then put in the 
 apples. Cover closely, and place on the fire. As soon 
 as the apples begin to soften (which will be in about 
 three minutes after they begin to boil), add the sugar 
 and nutmeg, and cook gently for ten minutes. Take up, 
 and set away to cool. At serving-time put them in a 
 ^eep glass dish, and heap the whipped cream on top. 
 
 Caledonian Trifle. 
 
 This is made of eight eggs, one quart of milk, half a 
 teacupful of sugar, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of salt, 
 one teaspoonful of vanilla extract, two table-spoonfuls 
 of currant jelly, and two table-spoonfuls of raspberry 
 preserve. 
 
720 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Reserve half a cupful of milk, and put the remainder 
 on the stove in a double-boiler. Put aside the whites of 
 three eggs in a cool place, and beat the yolks and the 
 five whole eggs with the sugar and salt, using a spoon 
 for the operation ; then add the cold milk. When the 
 milk on the stove begins to boil, pour it upon this mix- 
 ture, stirring all the while. Turn the mixture into the 
 double-boiler, and set it over the fire. Stir until the 
 liquid looks as thick on the edge of the spoon as in 
 the middle. This will be in from five to six minutes if 
 the water in the lower kettle has been boiling all the 
 while. Pour the custard into a pitcher or bowl, and set 
 it away to cool, stirring it occasionally. 
 
 At serving-time pour it into a deep glass dish. Beat 
 the reserved whites of three eggs to a stiff, dry froth. 
 Stir into it one-half the currant jelly, broken into small 
 pieces, and into the other half the raspberry preserve. 
 Form these mixtures into little mounds on top of the 
 custard. 
 
 * Strawberry Trifle. 
 
 Lay slices of stale cake in a deep glass dish, and pour 
 over them enough canned strawberries to moisten well. 
 Beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff, dry froth, and 
 beat into them four table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. 
 When light and firm, slowly add two table-spoonfuls of 
 wine or strawberry juice. Heap upon the cake and straw- 
 berries, and serve soon. 
 
 Orange Charlotte. 
 
 Use half a box of gelatine, one cupful of sugar, one of 
 orange juice, the juice of one lemon, one cupful and a 
 half of boiling water, half a cupful of cold water, and 
 four Florida oranges of medium size. 
 
 Soak the gelatin* in the cold water for two hours. 
 Pour the boiling water on it, and then place the bowl in 
 a pan of boiling water. Add tlie sugar, and stir until 
 
DESSERT. 721 
 
 dissolved. Now add the orange and lemon juice, and 
 strain into a bowl. Place the bowl in a pan of ice-water, 
 and stir frequently until the contents begin to congeal. 
 
 While they are cooling, peel and slice the oranges. 
 Line a quart charlotte-mould with them. As soon as 
 the jelly begins to congeal, beat it vigorously. Continue 
 beating the preparation until it is light and so thick that 
 it flows in a thick stream. Fill the charlotte mould, and 
 set away to harden. 
 
 Bavarian Orange Charlotte. 
 
 This is made of the grated rind of two oranges and the 
 juice of six. one cupful of sugar, one-third of a box of 
 gelatine, two quarts of whipped and drained cream, two- 
 thirds of a cupful of water, and enough stale sponge cake 
 or lady-fingers to line a three-pint charlotte-mould. 
 
 Soak the gelatine for two hours in one-third of a cup- 
 ful of cold water. Grate the rind only the yellow 
 part into a bowl, and squeeze the juice of the half- 
 dozen oranges into the same bowl. Now whip the cream, 
 and let it drain. Next cut the cake, and line the mould. 
 
 When the gelatine has been soaked sufficiently, pour 
 upon it one-third of a cupful of boiling water. Stir the 
 gelatine until it is completely dissolved; then pour it 
 into the bowl with the orange juice. Strain this mix- 
 ture into a tin or granite-ware basin ; and after placing 
 the basin in a pan of ice-water, stir the contents con- 
 stantly until they begin to thicken. When the mixture 
 is slightly thickened, add the whipped cream gradually, 
 gently stirring all the while from the bottom of the pan. 
 After a little stirring take up a spoonful of the mixture 
 and pour it back. If it does not immediately sink, the 
 mixture will be thick enough to turn into the mould. 
 Be careful not to pour it in before it is of the proper 
 consistency, yet be equally careful not to delay pouring 
 after it is just thick enough. Set away for an hour or 
 
722 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 more, to harden. At serving-time loosen the charlotte 
 from the sides of the mould, and turn out on a flat dish. 
 
 Burnt Almond Charlotte. 
 
 This is a delicious dish for dessert. It is made of a 
 cupful of blanched almonds, a cupful of sugar, a cupful 
 and a half of milk, half a box of gelatine, half a cupful 
 of cold water, the yolks of two eggs, two quarts of 
 whipped cream, and enough stale sponge cake or lady- 
 fingers to line a two-quart charlotte-mould. 
 
 Before any of the other work is done, the gelatine 
 should be soaked in the cold water for about an hour 
 and three-quarters. To blanch the almonds, shell them, 
 pour boiling water over them, and after letting them 
 remain in it for a moment, throw them into cold water ; 
 finally rub them between the hands. After blanching 
 them, chop them fine. Put three heaping table-spoonfuls 
 of the sugar into a frying-pan, and when it gets melted 
 and is smoking hot, put in the nuts, and stir until they 
 become brown, say for about four minutes. Take them 
 from the fire, and spread them on a plate to cool ; and 
 when they are cold, pound them fine and put them into 
 a double-boiler with the milk, to cook for a quarter of 
 an hour. 
 
 Meanwhile line a two-quart charlotte-mould with stale 
 sponge cake or lady-fingers. Beat together the remainder 
 of the sugar and the yolks of the eggs, and at the end 
 of the quarter of an hour just mentioned, strain upon 
 them the cooked milk; then put the mixture into the 
 double-boiler, and add the soaked gelatine. Stir for four 
 minutes ; then set the boiler into a pan of ice-water, 
 and stir until its contents begin to thicken. Add the 
 whipped cream, and continue stirring until the mixture 
 becomes so thick that it will scarcely run. Pour the 
 mixture into the mould, and set away to harden. At 
 serving-time turn out on a flat dish. 
 
DESSERT. 723 
 
 Strawberry Charlotte. 
 
 The directions for making this dish may appear ex- 
 ceedingly complex, yet a beginner can do the prescribed 
 work in an hour, and after a little experience in whip- 
 ping cream, the work will not occupy more than half an 
 hour. 
 
 Soak half a package of gelatine in half a cupful of 
 cold water for two hours. Select from a quart of straw- 
 berries a cupful of the largest and soundest, and put 
 them aside. After sprinkling the remainder of the 
 berries with half a cupful of sugar, cut them up with a 
 spoon, and put them in a cool place. Put a quart of 
 cream into a bowl or pail, and set in a pan of ice-water , 
 place a pan of granite-ware or tin, having a small bottom, 
 in another containing ice-water ; then whip the cream, 
 and, skimming off the froth, put it into the empty pan. 
 When nearly all the cream has been whipped, pour off 
 such portion as has become liquid again. If there be 
 less than three quarts of whipped cream left in the pan, 
 whip again till you obtain that quantity. 
 
 Line two three-pint moulds with stale sponge cake or 
 lady-fingers, and spread the whole strawberries, from 
 the cup, on the bottom of each mould. Now pour half 
 a cupful of boiling water over the soaking gelatine. 
 Sprinkle three-fourths of a cupful of sugar and two 
 table-spoonfuls of wine over the whipped cream ; then 
 strain the gelatine upon it, and stir gently from the 
 bottom of the pan until the mixture begins to thicken. 
 When it has become so thick that it will scarcely run, 
 put a layer of it into each mould ; then put in a layer of 
 strawberries (those cut up and sugared), with their juice, 
 and continue making these alternate layers until all the 
 materials have been used. Let the last layer be one of 
 cream. Place the charlotte in an ice-chest for an hour 
 or more. 
 
 When ready to serve, turn out on a flat dish, and form 
 
724 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 a border with strawberries which have been standing in 
 sugar for about ten minutes, using a quart of the fruit 
 and half a cupful of sugar. 
 
 Cantaloupe Charlotte. 
 
 Cut a thin sheet of stale sponge cake into strips long 
 enough to run the length of a three-pint melon-mould, 
 and lit these strips closely into such a mould. It is a 
 good plan, yet not an absolute necessity, to dip their 
 edges into the white of an egg that has been beaten a 
 little, for this will keep the pieces of cake together. 
 
 Make a cream of a generous quarter of a package of 
 gelatine, a scant half-cupful of sugar, two table-spoonfuls 
 of sherry, the yolks of two eggs, and two quarts of whipped 
 cream. Soak the gelatine for two hours in one-third of 
 a cupful of cold water. Have the whipped cream in a 
 bright tin pan, and after placing it in another pan of ice- 
 water, have plenty of ice, sprinkle the sugar and 
 pour the wine into it, and add the yolks of the eggs, 
 well beaten. Pour a quarter of a cupful of boiling water 
 over the gelatine, and when the latter is completely 
 dissolved, strain the liquid into the cream. Stir the 
 mixture at the bottom part of the pan until it begins to 
 thicken, and then stir all the froth at the top into it. 
 When the cream has become so nearly solid that it will 
 scarcely flow, pour it into the lined mould. Set away on 
 ice for two hours. 
 
 Just before serving-time chop half a cupful of pista- 
 chio nuts very fine, and beat the whites of the two eggs 
 to a froth, not extremely dry. Turn the charlotte out 
 upon a dish, and after covering it with the beaten eggs, 
 sprinkle thickly with the chopped nuts. Have a pint 
 of cream, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and two of sherry 
 whipped to a froth, and heap around the charlotte. 
 
 The whipping may be done at any time, and the flavor- 
 ing omitted if plain cream be preferred. 
 
DESSERT. 725 
 
 Coffee Charlotte. 
 
 There will be required enough lady-fingers or stale 
 sponge cake to line a two-quart mould, or two smaller 
 moulds, three quarts of whipped cream, half a package 
 of gelatine, one cupful of sugar, half a cupful of milk, 
 half a cupful of cold water, half a cupful of boiling 
 water, the yolks of four eggs, and two table-spoonfuls of 
 coffee, ground fine. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in the cold water for two hours. 
 Put the coffee in a small flannel bag, and place in a small 
 saucepan. Pour the boiling water on it, and steep on 
 the back of the stove for half an hour. Beat the yolks 
 of the eggs and the sugar together. Add the milk and 
 the coffee to them. Place the mixture on the fire, in the 
 double-boiler, and cook until it thickens, stirring all 
 the time. It will take about five minutes. Now add the 
 soaked gelatine, and stir for a minute longer. On tak- 
 ing from the fire, place in a pan of cold water to cool. 
 Stir frequently. 
 
 Line the moulds with the cake. Now add about a 
 quart of broken ice to the water in which the custard is 
 cooling. Stir constantly until the custard begins to 
 thicken. Add the whipped cream, a little at a time. 
 Stir well from the bottom, and sides. Take a spoonful 
 of the mixture from the bottom, and pour it back again. 
 If it does not sink immediately, you may be sure that 
 the cream is firm enough and should be poured into the 
 moulds ; but should the spoonful sink at once, you must 
 continue to stir the preparation, and repeat the test in a 
 short time. 
 
 When the moulds have been filled with the cream, set 
 them away in a cold place for an hour or more before 
 serving. 
 
 Charlotte Russe. 
 
 For two moulds, each holding one quart, use three 
 quarts of whipped cream, half a package of gelatine, the 
 
726 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 yolks of four eggs, half a pint of milk, one gill of water, 
 a small cupful of sugar, one teaspoonful of vanilla ex- 
 tract, and enough stale sponge cake or lady-fingers to 
 line the sides of the moulds. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in the water for two hours. Beat 1 
 the sugar and yolks of the eggs together, and stir the 
 milk into this mixture. Put on the fire in the double- 
 boiler, and cook for five minutes, stirring all the time. 
 Add the soaked gelatine, and stir until this is dissolved. 
 Take from the fire and cool, stirring frequently. 
 
 Line the moulds with the cake. Add the vanilla, and 
 place the basin in a pan of ice-water. Stir the custard 
 until it begins to thicken ; then add the whipped cream, 
 about one-third at a time. Stir until the preparation is 
 so thick that it can hardly be poured. Fill the moulds, 
 and set away to harden. If possible, let the moulds 
 stand for an hour or longer. 
 
 For some tastes the charlotte is improved by the 
 addition of four table-spoonfuls of wine. 
 
 Charlotte Russe without Cream. 
 
 For a three-pint mould use one-third of a package of 
 gelatine, one quart of milk, four eggs, a generous half- 
 cupful of sugar, and one teaspoonful of vanilla. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in a cupful of the milk for two 
 hours. Beat the sugar and yolks of the eggs together, and 
 add half a cupful of milk to them. Put the remainder 
 of the milk into the double-boiler. When hot, pour it 
 on the beaten eggs and sugar. Put this mixture into 
 the double-boiler, and stir on the fire for five minutes. 
 Add the gelatine, and stir until that is all dissolved. 
 On taking from the fire, strain into a bowl. Place the 
 bowl in a pan of ice-water. When the mixture is cold, 
 add the whites of the eggs, unbeaten. Beat until the 
 mixture is thick and frothy. Fill with this cream a 
 mould that has been lined with sponge cake, and set 
 
DESSERT. 727 
 
 away to harden. This, of course, is not to be compared 
 with charlotte russe made with cream, but it is a good 
 substitute in parts of the country where it is impracti- 
 cable to obtain cream. 
 
 Charlotte Russe on a Bed of Jelly. 
 
 Make a wine or orange jelly, and pour it into a large 
 5S dish, or into two dishes, if there are to be two 
 moulds of the charlotte. Let the jelly harden. At 
 serving-time turn the charlotte on the jelly, and serve at 
 once. 
 
 Any kind of Bavarian cream may be served in this 
 manner on a bed of any kind of jelly. 
 
 Charlotte Russe in Paper Cases. 
 
 Charlotte russe that is served in paper cases or in 
 the small china souffle' dishes can be made without gela- 
 tine, and is liked by some people much better than that 
 which is moulded with the aid of gelatine. 
 
 Line eight or- ten fancy moulds with sponge cake 
 or sponge fingers. Sprinkle into two quarts of whipped 
 and drained cream four table-spoonfuls of sugar and 
 three table-spoonfuls of wine, or, instead of wine, half 
 a teaspoon ful of vanilla extract. Fill with this prepa- 
 ration the dishes that have been lined with cake, and 
 put them in the refrigerator for an hour. 
 
 At serving-time put a candied cherry or a fresh straw- 
 berry on top of each dish of cream. 
 
 Or, this charlotte russe may be made in one large 
 glass dish. Line the bottom and sides of the dish with 
 cake, and fill with the cream preparation. Let it stand 
 in the refrigerator for an hour. At serving-time dot 
 with fresh strawberries or candied cherries. 
 
 If one be in a hurry, this dish may be served as soon 
 as made. 
 
728 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Maraschino Bavarian Cream. 
 
 Take a pint and a half of cream, half a cupful of cold 
 water, half a package of gelatine, half a pint of milk, a 
 cupful of sugar, the yolks of four eggs, and two table- 
 spoonfuls of Maraschino. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in the cold water for two hours. 
 At the end of that time whip the cream to a froth. Put 
 the milk on the stove in a double-boiler. Beat the yolks 
 of the eggs, and add both them and the sugar to the 
 soaked gelatine. Stir this mixture into the hot milk, 
 and cook for three minutes, stirring all the time ; then 
 remove from the fire, and strain into a basin that holds 
 three quarts. Add the Maraschino, and, setting the basin 
 in a pan of ice-water, stir the mixture until it becomes 
 cold and begins to thicken; then stir in the whipped 
 cream, and pour into moulds that have been dipped in 
 cold water. Set away to harden. The cream should be 
 firm in half an hour, but it is well to let it stand for 
 several hours. At serving-time dip the moulds into 
 warm water, and turn the cream out on flat dishes. 
 
 Almond Velvet Cream. 
 
 This dish for dessert requires three pints of milk, four 
 eggs, one package of gelatine, two-thirds of a cupful of 
 sugar, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of salt, and one-fourth 
 of a teaspoonful of extract of almond. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in half a pint of the milk for two 
 hours. Reserve a gill of the remaining milk, and put the 
 rest on the stove in a double-boiler. Beat the eggs and 
 sugar together, and add the gill of cold milk. Pour 
 the boiling milk on this mixture ; then put the mixture 
 into the double-boiler and cook for five minutes, stir- 
 ring all the while. Add the soaked gelatine, and stir 
 until it is dissolved, no longer. On removing the mix- 
 ture from the stove stir the salt and the extract of 
 

 DESSERT. 
 
 almond into it. Strain, and pour into moulds which 
 have been rinsed in cold water. Let the moulds stand 
 in a cold place for half an hour ; then set them into a 
 refrigerator for six or eight hours. At serving-time dip 
 the moulds into warm water for a few seconds ; then 
 wipe them before turning out the cream. Serve with 
 sugar and cream. 
 
 * Tapioca Cream. 
 
 After washing four table-spoonfuls of tapioca, put it 
 into a bowl containing a cupful of cold water, and let 
 it stand over night. In the morning pour off all the 
 water, and put the tapioca into a double-boiler, with one 
 (part of boiling milk ; then stir in the yolks of four eggs, 
 half a teaspoonful of salt, and one cupful of sugar, beaten 
 together. Cook the mixture, stirring constantly, until 
 it thickens like soft custard, say for about seven min- 
 utes. Have the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, 
 and as soon as the cream is cooked, stir this froth into 
 it. Season with a teaspoonful of either lemon or vanilla 
 extract. Pour into an earthen dish, and let it get per- 
 fectly cold. At serving-time turn into a deep glass dish, 
 and dot with bits of bright jelly. 
 
 * Tapioca Custard. 
 
 Like the preceding dish, this is very nice for dessert. 
 It is made of a quart of milk, three eggs, three table- 
 spoonfuls of tapioca, half a cupful of sugar, a teaspoonful 
 of lemon or vanilla extract, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
 and two-thirds of a cupful of cold water. 
 
 Wash the tapioca, and soak it over night in the cold 
 water. In the morning put the quart of milk on the 
 stove in a double-boiler. Beat the eggs, sugar, and salt 
 together until smooth and light, and add to them the 
 soaked tapioca. When the milk boils, stir this mixture 
 into it, and cook for five minutes, stirring all the while 
 

 
 730 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Take from the fire at the expiration of the five minutes ; 
 and after adding the flavor, pour the mixture into a dish, 
 and set away to cool. After it has become cool it should 
 be chilled on ice before being served. 
 
 Orange Custard. 
 
 This is made of eight eggs, the grated rind of two 
 large oranges, and the juice of four, half a pint of water, 
 and one cupful of sugar. 
 
 Separate the whites of the eggs from the yolks, and 
 put the latter away in a cool place. Add the orange-rind 
 and juice to the whites of the eggs ; and after beating 
 the mixture well, add the water. Set away for an hour. 
 At the end of that time beat the yolks of the eggs, and 
 add them, together with the sugar, to the mixture of 
 whites, orange, and water. Strain into a pitcher, and set 
 the pitcher into a basin containing boiling water enough 
 to conie well up the sides. Set the basin where the water 
 will boil rapidly, and stir the mixture until it becomes 
 as thick as rich cream, say for about a quarter of an 
 hour. Remove from the fire, and allow the custard par- 
 tially to cool, stirring it frequently ; then pour into 
 glass cups, and put away to get perfectly cold. 
 
 *Wine Custard. 
 
 This is easily, quickly, and cheaply made, yet the work 
 must be done carefully. Heat a quart of milk to the 
 temperature of 100. Add two table-spoonfuls of sugar, 
 and two of wine ; and after stirring well, add two even 
 table-spoonfuls of liquid rennet, stirring only enough 
 to mix it with the milk. Pour the mixture into a deep 
 glass dish, and set away to cool. It will be firm, in 
 about two hours. Serve with sugar and cream. 
 
 Be careful not to get the milk too warm. Be equally 
 particular to mix the sugar and wine with it thoroughly, 
 before adding the rennet ; to stir the mixture after the 
 

 DESSERT. 731 
 
 addition of the rennet only enough to blend all the mate- 
 rials ; and finally to turn immediately into the dish in 
 which the custard is to go to the table. 
 
 * Caramel Custard. 
 
 The materials are : one quart of milk, four eggs, half 
 a cupful of sugar, one gill of hot water, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt. 
 
 Put the sugar into a small frying-pan, and stir over 
 the fire until it begins to turn liquid ; then draw the pan 
 back, and add the water. This will harden the sugar. 
 Let it simmer for fifteen minutes, and it will become 
 liquid again. 
 
 Beat the eggs and salt with a spoon until well broken. 
 Add them to the milk. Now add the caramel, and stir 
 well. Pour the custard into a pudding-dish, and bake 
 in a moderate oven until firm in the centre. It will take 
 about forty minutes. Serve cold. 
 
 This custard can be baked in small cups instead of in 
 the pudding-dish. 
 
 *A Simple Soft Custard. 
 
 This is very plain and light, and may be used with 
 many puddings as a sauce. For a quart of custard there 
 will be required a quart of milk, half a teacupful of sugar, 
 four eggs, two table-spoonfuls of arrowroot, one-fourth 
 of a teaspoonful of salt, and one teaspoonful of some 
 kind of extract, vanilla is recommended. 
 
 Put a pint and a half of the milk on the stove in a 
 double-boiler. Mix the arrowroot with a gill of the 
 cold milk; and after stirring this mixture into the hot 
 milk, cook for ten minutes. Beat the eggs, sugar, and 
 salt together, and add the remaining cold milk. When 
 the arrowroot has cooked for ten minutes, pour the 
 boiling milk over the egg mixture. Stir well, and 
 then cook for five minutes in the double-boiler, stir- 
 

 732 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 ring all the time. Remove from the fire, pour into a 
 bowl or pitcher, and set away to cool. When cold, add 
 the flavor. 
 
 The custard may be served in cups, if not wanted for 
 a pudding-sauce ; or it may be poured over stale sponge 
 cake, the dish being then called a " trifle.'' 
 
 * Corn-starch Blanc-mange. 
 
 Bub five ingredients are needed : a quart of milk, four 
 heaping table-spoonfuls of corn-starch, three table-spoon- 
 fuls of sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful of 
 lemon or vanilla extract. 
 
 Reserve a cupful of milk, and put the rest on the stove 
 in a double-boiler. Mix the corn-starch, sugar, salt, and 
 cold milk, and stir the mixture into the other milk when 
 it boils. Beat thoroughly, and cook for twelve minutes, 
 stirring often. After rinsing a mould with cold water, 
 pour the hot mixture into it, and set away to cool. 
 
 The blanc-mange may be served with sugar and cream, 
 or with a sauce made by beating the whites of three 
 eggs to a stiff, dry froth, and gradually beating into this 
 a tumbler of any kind of fruit jelly or preserves. Turn 
 the blanc-mange out upon a flat dish, and pour the sauce 
 around it. Serve at once. 
 
 Egg sauce is nice with this pudding. 
 
 * Fruit Blanc-mange. 
 
 Any kind of juicy fruit will answer for this blanc- 
 mange ; but red fruits, like strawberries, raspberries, and 
 currants, produce the handsomest dish. The materials 
 required to fill a quart mould are : half a pint of sugar, 
 a pint of water, a pint of fruit, and six level table- spoon- 
 fuls of arrowroot. 
 
 Free the fruit of hulls or stems, and crush it in a bowl 
 also containing the sugar. Let the mixture stand for 
 
DESSERT. 73;] 
 
 an hour ; then add the water, and press the mixture 
 through a fine sieve. Reserve half a cupful, and put the 
 remainder on to boil. Mix the half-cupful smoothly 
 with the arrowroot, and stir into the first mixture when 
 it boils. Cook for eight minutes, stirring frequently. 
 When done, pour into a mould that has been rinsed in 
 cold water, and set away to harden. The blanc-mangt 
 should stand for at least four hours. Serve with sugar 
 and cream. Whipped cream makes a pretty garnish. 
 
 * Taganrok Blanc-mange. 
 
 Taganrok is Russian wheat farina, which comes in 
 small packages, costing ten cents. One package is suffi- 
 cient for four quarts of blanc-mange. To make a mould 
 of blanc-mange use a quart of milk, four level table- 
 spoonfuls of the farina, and one level teaspoonful of 
 salt. 
 
 Put the milk on the stove in a double-boiler, and when 
 it begins to boil, sprinkle in the taganrok, stirring all 
 the while. Next add the salt, and cook for half an hour, 
 stirring frequently. At the end of the half-hour rinse 
 a mould in cold water, and pour the hot mixture into 
 it. Set away to cool, and be sure that it is ice-cold when 
 sent to the table. Serve sugar and cream with it. 
 
 * Chocolate Blanc-mange. 
 
 For a quart mould of blanc-mange use one quart of 
 milk, one level table-spoonful of sea-moss farina, four 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, half 
 a teaspoonful of vanilla, one ounce of scraped chocolate, 
 and one table-spoonful of water. 
 
 Put the milk in the double-boiler, and sprinkle the 
 farina into it, stirring all the time. Place on the fire, 
 and heat slowly, stirring frequently. 
 
 When the milk and farina have been cooking for a 
 quarter of an hour, put the sugar, chocolate, and water 
 
734 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 into a small frying-pan, and stir over a hot fire until the 
 mixture is smooth and glossy. Add this to the milk 
 and farina. Stir for two minutes; then take from the 
 fire, and after adding the salt and vanilla, pour into the 
 moulds, and set away to harden. Serve with sugar and 
 cream. 
 
 * For a three-pint mould, use three pints of milk, one 
 package of gelatine, two ounces of scraped chocolate, 
 six table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
 one teaspoonful of vanilla, and two table-spoonfuls of 
 water. 
 
 Soak the gelatine for two hours in half a pint of the 
 milk. At the end of that time put the remainder of 
 the milk into the double-boiler. Now put the sugar, 
 chocolate, and water into a small frying-pan, and stir over 
 a hot fire until the mixture is smooth and glossy. Add 
 this to the hot milk. Stir for two minutes, and add 
 the soaked gelatine. Take from the fire, and add the 
 salt and vanilla. Place the pan in another containing 
 cold water, and stir the mixture for five or eight minutes ; 
 then turn into moulds, and set away to harden. Serve 
 with sugar and whipped or plain cream. 
 
 * Bananas and Whipped Cream. 
 
 If provision is to be made for six persons, use six or 
 seven bananas, the juice of an orange, half a cupful of 
 sugar, and one pint of cream, whipped to a froth. 
 
 Pare and slice the bananas ; and after sprinkling them 
 with the sugar, sprinkle with the orange juice also. Set 
 the fruit in the refrigerator for an hour or two. Serve 
 with whipped cream. 
 
 If one prefer, four table-spoonfuls of wine may be used 
 instead of orange juice. 
 
DESSERT. 735 
 
 * Baked Bananas. 
 
 Put into a bowl three table-spoonfuls of butter, six of 
 sugar, and three of lemon juice, and set the bowl into 
 a pan of hot water, so as to melt the butter. Peel the 
 bananas, and lay them in a shallow baking-pan ; it must 
 be perfectly clean, and the bananas must not touch each 
 other. Baste the fruit with the mixture in the bowl, and 
 bake for half an hour, basting three times more. 
 
 This dish is nice either for an entree or for dessert. 
 
 * Stewed Apples with Cream. 
 
 For this dish use three pints of pared and quartered 
 tart apples, the juice of one lemon, about one-fourth of a 
 grated nutmeg, one pint of water, one scant pint of gran- 
 ulated sugar, and two quarts of whipped cream, sweetened 
 with three table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. 
 
 Put the water and sugar in a saucepan, and boil for 
 a quarter of an hour ; then add the lemon juice, nutmeg, 
 and apples. Cover the stew-pan, and set it where its 
 contents will cook slowly for forty minutes ; then remove 
 the pan from the fire, and take up the apples, being care- 
 ful not to break the pieces, and to avoid taking up the 
 syrup. Return the saucepan to the stove, and boil 
 rapidly, for five minutes, the syrup that remains ; then 
 pour it over the apples, and set them away to cool. 
 
 At serving-time drain the cream well, and sprinkle 
 the powdered sugar over it, stirring gently in order that 
 the two may get well mixed. Heap the cream upon the 
 cold stewed apple, and serve at once. 
 
 *Iced Apples. 
 
 Pare, core, and cook apples in syrup, as when they are 
 crystallized. Put them in the oven without the coating 
 of sugar, and bake for fifteen minutes. Now cover them 
 with a thin layer of me'ringue. Sift granulated sugar 
 
736 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 over this, and brown it slightly, leaving the oven door 
 open. 
 
 Let the syrup in which they were stewed boil until 
 there is only about a gill and a half left. Add a few 
 drops of dissolved cochineal. Stir well, and pour into a 
 soup-plate. When this liquid becomes cold it will be 
 a firm jelly. Cut it in squares, and decorate the tops 
 of the apples with it. Serve soft custard or cream with 
 the apples. 
 
 * Crystallized Apples. 
 
 Put one cupful of sugar and two of water into a stew- 
 pan, and on the fire. Boil for five minutes. Now put 
 into the pan as many pared and cored whole apples as 
 you can without crowding. Cook very gently until the 
 fruit becomes tender, yet not so long as to break it; 
 fchen take it from the syrup, and place it in a shallow 
 6aking-pan. 
 
 Continue in this way until eighteen apples have been 
 stewed. Now sprinkle granulated sugar thickly over the 
 apples, and then put them in a moderately hot oven. Be 
 careful that they do not get scorched. When the sugar 
 becomes slightly browned, remove the apples from the 
 oven, and arrange them on a flat dish. 
 
 Boil the syrup in which they were cooked until there 
 is only a gill and a half left. Pour this round, but not 
 over, the apples. When it is cold, put the fruit in a 
 glass dish, taking up a circle of jelly with each one. 
 Place a bit of currant jelly on the top of each apple, and 
 serve. 
 
 * Glazed Apples with Cream. 
 
 For a dozen large apples use a cupful and a half of 
 sugar and a cupful and a half of water. Put one cupful 
 of the sugar in a saucepan with the water, and boil 
 rapidly for twenty minutes. Pare and core the apples, 
 keeping them whole. Put them in deep earthen plates 
 
DESSERT. 787 
 
 or shallow cake-pans, and put a teaspoonful of sugar in 
 the centre of each apple. Baste the outside of each 
 apple with about half a table-spoonful of the hot syrup. 
 Place the pan in a moderately hot oven, and bake the 
 fruit until it is tender, basting frequently with the syrup. 
 When the apples are done, place them on a flat dish, and 
 pour over them the juice from the pan in which they were 
 baked. Serve cold, with a bowl of whipped cream. 
 
 * Coddled Apples. 
 
 Pare and core eighteen tart apples. Put a quart of 
 water and a pint of sugar into a large saucepan, and boil 
 for ten minutes ; then put into the boiling syrup as many 
 of the cored apples as the saucepan will hold without 
 crowding. Cook gently until a broom-straw can be 
 thrust through them; and when they are done, take 
 them up carefully, and lay them on a large plate or 
 platter. When all have been cooked, sprinkle them with 
 granulated sugar, and put them into the oven for ten 
 minutes ; then set away on the platter to cool. 
 
 Boil the syrup down to a pint, and cool it. At serving- 
 time lift the apples from the platter to a glass dish, and 
 pour the syrup around them. Great care must be taken 
 that they do not get broken. 
 
 Both the fruit and syrup may be flavored with cinna- 
 mon by boiling a stick of the spice in the syrup, or with 
 lemon by putting the thin rind and the juice of a lemon 
 on to boil with the sugar and water. If the apples be 
 tart, they will require no flavoring. 
 
 * Apples Baked with Butter. 
 
 For twelve large apples use four table-spoonfuls of 
 butter, one cupful of sugar, half a cupful of water, and a 
 little nutmeg, if the flavor be liked. Pare and core the 
 apples, being careful not to break them. Place them in 
 
 47 
 
788 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 a rather shallow earthen dish, and put a teaspoonful of 
 sugar in the centre of each. Put the water, butter, and 
 remainder of the sugar into a little stew-pan, and heat to 
 the boiling-point. Baste the apples with about one- 
 third of this liquid, and put them in a moderately hot 
 oven. Cook until they are perfectly tender, basting 
 three times with the sugar, water, and butter in the pan. 
 The exact time for cooking cannot be given because 
 apples vary so much in size and flavor. A good tart 
 apple will generally cook in thirty-five minutes. 
 
 Half a teaspoonful of cinnamon or the grated rind 
 and the juice of a lemon may be cooked with the sugar, 
 butter, and water. If nutmeg be used, grate half of a 
 nutmeg into the saucepan. 
 
 These apples make a nice dish for luncheon or tea. 
 Sometimes they are served with cream. 
 
 
 
 * Baked Quinces. 
 
 Wash, wipe, pare, and core a dozen quinces. Place 
 them in a deep earthen dish, and fill the centres with 
 sugar. Pour a cupful of water into the dish, and sprinkle 
 the fruit with sugar, using a cupful for the filling and 
 sprinkling combined. Cover the dish, and set it in a 
 moderate oven to bake for two hours. Serve cold with 
 cream and sugar. 
 
 Some folks think it an improvement to put half a tea- 
 spoonful of butter into each core ; but the use of butter 
 is not recommended. 
 
 * Baked Pears. 
 
 Wash the pears the hard kind usually sold for cook- 
 ingand put them into a deep earthen dish. For two 
 dozen large ones allow a cupful of sugar and a quart of 
 boiling water. Bake slowly for three hours. They are 
 nice for tea or dessert. 
 
DESSERT. 739 
 
 * Stewed Prunes. 
 
 Put a pound of prunes into a bowl of cold water, and 
 let them stand for five minutes ; then wash them by 
 rubbing between the hands. As they are washed, drop 
 them into another bowl of cold water, and wash them 
 very carefully in this second water. Put them into a 
 stew-pan with a quart of water and three table-spoonfuls 
 of sugar, and heat them slowly to the boiling-point j then 
 simmer gently for two hours. Turn into an earthen 
 dish, and set away to cool. They will keep for several 
 days in cold weather. 
 
 The thorough washing and slow cooking are very 
 necessary. 
 
 * Rhubarb Sauce. 
 
 Rhubarb may be made into a good sauce in spring and 
 early summer. It should be fresh and tender when used. 
 Pare it, and cut it in pieces about an inch long; then 
 wash it, and put it into an earthen baking-dish. For 
 each quart add a cupful of sugar and half a cupful of 
 water. Cover the dish with a large plate, and bake 
 slowly for two hours. 
 
 Rhubarb may be put into a stew-pan with sugar 
 and water, and cooked in fifteen minutes, if the water 
 boil all the time ; but the sauce will be green and the 
 rhubarb broken, whereas by the first method a rich- 
 colored sauce may be obtained, and the pieces of rhubarb 
 kept whole. 
 
 * Dinner Apple Sauce. 
 
 Put into a deep earthen dish two quarts of pared and 
 quartered apples, and sprinkle over them half a cupful 
 of sugar, a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, a cupful of 
 water, and one-third of a cupful of molasses. Cut a 
 table-spoonful of butter into little pieces, and sprinkle 
 upon the ingredients. Cover the dish with a large plate, 
 and bake for an hour in a slow oven. 
 
740 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 If you prefer, you may use almost a cupful of either 
 sugar or molasses instead of the smaller quantities of 
 both ingredients, as given above. At any rate, if the 
 sauce be liked exceedingly sweet, it will be necessary to 
 increase the amount of sweetening slightly, whichever 
 plan be followed. 
 
 * Evaporated Apple Sauce. 
 
 In the spring and early summer the housekeeper often 
 is troubled to make changes in sauces. Most of the 
 winter fruits have gone by ; the stock of canned and pre- 
 served fruits may be low, and the only fresh fruits in the 
 market are from the South, and are so high-priced that 
 the housekeeper of moderate means does not think of 
 buying them. This is the time when dried and evap- 
 orated fruits become especially desirable. If they be 
 properly cooked they will be both appetizing and health- . 
 ful. When fruits are dried they are, of course, exposed 
 to much dust, and they should therefore be washed very 
 carefully afterward. 
 
 Here is a receipt for evaporated apple sauce : Use one 
 pint of the apples, one quart of water, the juice of one 
 lemon, and one cupful of sugar. Wash the apples in cold 
 water, rubbing them between the hands the same as in 
 washing rice. Now put them into a large bowl with the 
 quart of cold water, and soak them over night. In the 
 morning put the apples and water into a porcelain, 
 earthen, or granite-ware stew-pan. Add the lemon juice 
 and sugar, and set the pan on the back part of the range, 
 where its contents will cook slowly for three hours. Do 
 not stir the apples while they are cooking. At the end 
 of the three hours turn the sauce into a bowl, and set 
 away to cool. 
 
 Another way of cooking the apple sauce is to prepare 
 it as above, and then turn it into a deep earthen baking- 
 dish. Cover with a large plate, and bake in a slow oven 
 for two hours. 
 
DESSEKT. 741 
 
 * Evaporated Peach Sauce. 
 
 Wash and soak the peaches as directed for apples. In 
 the morning put them into a stew-pan with half a cupful 
 of sugar, and cook slowly for three hours. Cool, and 
 use. More or less sugar may be used if the quantity 
 given does not suit the individual taste, but the addition 
 of sugar will not increase the healthfulness of the dish. 
 
742 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 
 CAKE. 
 
 IN no department of cookery does the average house- 
 keeper need less instruction than in cake-making. It is 
 the one thing pertaining to cookery that nearly every 
 American girl learns. There are a few principles, how- 
 ever, which, if acted upon, will make the \vork easier and 
 the results more certain. 
 
 Remember that cake and pastry do not belong to the 
 necessaries of life ; therefore, if you cannot afford good 
 materials for them, do not attempt to provide them for 
 your table. 
 
 The First Steps. 
 
 In making cake the work should be done in this order : 
 See that the oven is right for baking, and if coal be used, 
 that there is enough on the fire to last through the bak- 
 ing. Butter the baking-pans, always using washed butter. 
 If the pans be large, line them with thin brown paper, 
 spreading Jt smoothly on the well-buttered pans. Meas- 
 ure the sugar, flour (which should first be sifted), butter, 
 spice, and seasoning. Count the eggs ; then break them, 
 and separate the yolks from the whites. If you are to 
 use baking-powder, or soda and cream-of-tartar, add them 
 to the sifted flour. Mix well, and sift again. If fresh 
 lemons or oranges are to be used, grate the rind and 
 squeeze out the juice. Pour hot water into the bowl in 
 which the cake is to be mixed. If the water be boiling 
 hot, turn it out again immediately, but if only moder- 
 ately hot let it stand for about half a minute. Wipe the 
 bowl, and put in the butter. Work it with a spoon until 
 soft ; then beat it until light and creamy. Gradually 
 
CAKE. 748 
 
 beat the sugar into the butter. When the mixture is 
 light and creamy, add the flavor and spice, if any are to 
 be used. Now beat in the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, 
 and the milk (if milk be used), a little at a time. Add 
 the flour and the well-beaten whites. Beat vigorously for 
 half a minute. Spread the batter evenly in the pans, 
 having it a little deeper at the sides than in the centre. 
 This will insure a level surface for the loaf when it is 
 baked. The more quickly the beating and mixing of the 
 cake are done, the lighter and finer will be the cake. 
 
 If cake is to be baked in sheets and not to be iced, 
 sprinkle powdered sugar over it before putting it into 
 the oven. This will give a smooth, sugary crust. 
 
 The sugar used for cake should be fine granulated in 
 nearly all cases. Powdered sugar makes a dry cake ; 
 coarse granulated sugar does not melt, and the cake made 
 with it is coarse and heavy. 
 
 Baking Cake. 
 
 The baking of the cake is as important as the mixing. 
 For most kinds the oven should be rather slow. If it be 
 too hot for sponge cake, the cake will sometimes rise 
 very high and fall again. In any case it will be coarse- 
 grained and tough. A good test for sponge cake is to 
 put a piece of white paper into the oven, close the door, 
 and open it in five minutes. If the paper be a rich yel- 
 low, the oven is right ; but if it be light yellow, the oven 
 is too cool, or if a dark brown, it is too hot. 
 
 For pound cake the oven should be just hot enough 
 to color the paper light brown. Cup cake requires an. 
 oven of about the same temperature. It may, however, 
 be a very little hotter without damage to the cake. 
 Molasses gingerbread and all the thin-rolled cakes re- 
 quire a hotter oven. The paper should turn a dark 
 brown in five minutes. 
 
 Great care should be taken to prevent the cake from 
 being jarred while it is baking, particularly when the 
 
744 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 cake is semi-liquid, as it always is when it has been in 
 the oven only a little while. 
 
 When the cake is baked it is a good plan to let it par- 
 tially cool in the pans. A delicate cake is often made 
 heavy by the jarring when it is taken from the pan hot. 
 
 Sponge Cake. 
 
 In making sponge cake it is always best to weigh the 
 materials if possible. The best rule for sponge cake is 
 the weight of the eggs in sugar and half the weight of 
 the eggs in flour. For every ten eggs use the juice and 
 rind of one large lemon. 
 
 For the benefit of those who have not scales, a rule 
 for measuring the materials is given in the chapter en- 
 titled " What All Housekeepers should Know." The 
 method of mixing the cake is the same whether the' 
 materials be weighed or measured. 
 
 For two sheets of cake use two cupfuls and a half of 
 sugar, two and a half of pastry flour, or if new-process 
 flour be used, take two cupfuls and half a gill, ten eggs, 
 and the juice and grated rind of one lemon. Have the 
 oven properly heated, that is, only moderately hot. 
 Butter the pans, and line them. Weigh or measure the 
 flour and sugar. Grate the rind of the lemon on the 
 sugar. Squeeze the juice into a cup. Break the eggs, 
 putting the whites in a large mixing-bowl and the yolks 
 in a smaller bowl. Beat the yolks with the egg-beater 
 until thick and light. Add the sugar to them, and beat 
 with a spoon until light. Add the lemon juice, and beat 
 two minutes longer. Beat the whites of the eggs to a 
 stiff froth, and cut the beaten yolks and sugar into them, 
 adding a spoonful at a time. This work must be done 
 slowly and carefully. When this is all cut together, add 
 the flour, and cut it in slowly and carefully, keeping the 
 whole mass light and spongy. Pour the mixture into 
 the two pans, and bake for about forty minutes. 
 
 The oven should be moderately hot throughout the 
 
CAKE. 745 
 
 baking ; but for sponge cake it is very essential that the 
 oven be slow at first, even if the heat be increased after 
 the first twenty minutes. It is almost impossible to give 
 the exact time of baking, as the thickness of the loaves 
 of cake and the heat of the oven vary. It is a good plan 
 to try the cake with a straw. 
 
 It is of the greatest consequence that the cake shall 
 not be jarred. 
 
 * Quaker Sponge Cake. 
 
 Here is a list of the materials needed : half a dozen 
 eggs, one capful and a half of sugar, two cupfuls of 
 sifted flour, four table-spoonfuls of boiling water, two 
 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, and one teaspoonful of 
 lemon extract. 
 
 Put the sugar and water on the stove in a small sauce- 
 pan, and heat to the boiling-point. Put the eggs into 
 a large bowl, and beat with a Dover beater for five 
 minutes. Pour the hot sugar and water upon the beaten 
 eggs, and beat ten minutes longer. Mix the baking- 
 powder and flour, and sift this mixture upon that which 
 has been beaten. Beat quickly and vigorously. Add 
 the lemon extract, and pour the batter into buttered 
 cake-pans. Bake in a moderate oven for twenty-five 
 minutes. 
 
 Sponge Fingers. 
 
 Use six eggs, a scant cupful of powdered sugar, one 
 cupful of flour, and the grated rind of one lemon. A 
 little extra sugar will be required for sprinkling over the 
 ttngers. 
 
 Have large sheets of paper spread on tin sheets. Rub 
 them over with washed butter. When this has been 
 done, dredge the paper with powdered sugar. Into a 
 large pastry-bag put a tin tube about half an inch in 
 diameter at the small end, and put a small stopper in 
 the outer end of the tube. See that the oven is properly 
 
746 
 
 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 heated. It must be a very moderate heat. Put a piece 
 of white paper in the oven, and if at the end of five 
 minutes it is a yellow color, the oven is all right for the 
 sponge fingers. Should the oven be too hot the cake 
 will rise and then fall. Still, it must be hot enough to 
 form a crust on the cakes quickly, else they will spread 
 and, of course, be spoiled. 
 
 Now that everything is ready, make the cake. Grate 
 the rind of the lemon on the sugar. Beat the yolks of 
 the eggs very light. Add the sugar to them, and beat 
 with a spoon until the mixture is smooth and light. 
 Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff, dry froth. Add 
 the beaten yolks and sugar to the whites, a spoonful at a 
 time. Do not stir the mixture ; cut it in lightly. Now 
 sprinkle in the flour, a little at a time, and cut it lightly 
 into the preparation, which must be kept dry and light. 
 If it be stirred it will become liquid and heavy. When 
 the flour has been added, pour the preparation into the 
 pastry-bag. There should be enough 
 to fill about two-thirds of the bag. 
 Twist the cloth at the top, and con- 
 tinue twisting until the cake mixture 
 is pressed well down. Remove the 
 stopper from the tube. Hold the top 
 part of the bag in the left hand. Place 
 the right hand under the bag and near 
 the tube, having the thumb come on 
 top. Bring the point of the tube close 
 to the buttered paper mentioned in the 
 first part of the receipt, and apply a 
 slight pressure with the thumb and 
 fingers of the right hand. This will 
 force the paste out of the bag on the 
 paper. Draw the bag toward you very 
 slowly, continuing the pressure all the while. When the 
 sponge fingers are long enough, remove the pressure, and 
 tip the point of the bag up. This will stop the flow of the 
 
 Pastry-bag. 
 
CAKE. 747 
 
 Sponge Fingers. 
 
 mixture. The lingers should be four or five inches long 
 Press them out in rows on the paper until all the prep- 
 aration has been used. Dredge them thickly with pow- 
 dered sugar, and bake for about twelve minutes; then 
 remove from the paper, and spread on a dish to cool. 
 
 White Sponge Fingers. 
 
 Use the whites of six eggs, half a cupful of powdered 
 sugar, half a cupful of flour, and the grated yellow rind 
 of an orange. Mix the sugar and orange rind. Beat the 
 whites of the eggs to a stiff, dry froth. With a spoon 
 beat the sugar into the beaten whites ; do not stir it 
 in. Now cut in the flour, a little at a time. Bake the 
 same as the fingers described in the preceding receipt. 
 
 Rich Cup Cake. 
 
 The materials needed are : one cupful of butter, two of 
 sugar, four scant cupfuls of flour, half a cupful of milk, 
 six eggs, two table-spoonfuls of lemon juice, half a tea- 
 spoonful of vanilla extract, one-fourth of a teaspoonful 
 of extract of almond, half a teaspoonful of soda, and one 
 teaspoouful of cream-of-tartar. 
 
 Beat the butter to a cream. Gradually beat in the 
 sugar. Add the flavors and the yolks of the eggs, well 
 beaten. Beat in the milk. Add the flour, mixed with 
 the soda and cream-of-tartar. Finally add the whites of 
 the eggs, well beaten. Bake in two loaves in a moderate 
 oven for one hour. The loaves may be round or long ; 
 
748 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 or half the batter may be baked in a loaf, and the other 
 half in two thin sheets. 
 
 When it is not convenient to use the fresh lemon juice, 
 substitute one teaspoonful of extract of lemon. 
 
 * Plain Cup Cake. 
 
 For two sheets of cake use one cupful of sugar, half a 
 cupful of butter, one cupful of milk, two cupfuls and 
 three-quarters of sifted flour, the rind and juice of one 
 lemon, three eggs, one teaspoonful of soda, and two of 
 cream-of-tartar. 
 
 Mix the flour, soda, and cream-of-tartar, and sift the 
 mixture. Beat the butter to a cream. Gradually beat 
 in the sugar. Beat the eggs till light, and beat them into 
 the butter and sugar. Now add the milk, and lastly the 
 flour. Beat vigorously for half a minute. Spread the 
 mixture in two buttered shallow pans. Sprinkle with 
 powdered sugar, and cook for twenty-five minutes in a 
 moderate oven. 
 
 Delicate Cake. 
 
 For two loaves of this cake use one cupful of butter, 
 two of sugar, one of milk, three and one-half of sifted 
 flour, three table-spoonfuls of wine, one-eighth of a tea- 
 spoonful of ground mace, one generous teaspoonful of 
 cream-of-tartar, one scant teaspoonful of soda, and the 
 whites of eight eggs. 
 
 Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually beat the 
 sugar into it ; then add the wine and mace, and beat two 
 minutes longer. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff, 
 dry froth. Add the milk to the butter and sugar ; then 
 add the eggs, and finally the flour, mixed with the soda 
 and cream-of-tartar. 
 
 Turn the mixture into two deep pans that have been 
 well buttered, and bake in a moderate oven for three- 
 quarters of an hour. 
 
CAKE. 749 
 
 * Plain Spice Cake. 
 
 This is delicious. It is made of an egg, two-thirds of 
 a cupful of sugar, the same quantity of molasses and of 
 butter, a cupful of milk, two cupfuls and a half of flour, 
 measured generously, one teaspoonful of soda, one level 
 teaspoouful of cream-of-tartar, one table-spoonful of vine- 
 gar or lemon juice, and one table-spoonful of mixed 
 spice. 
 
 Beat the egg well, and after adding to it the molasses, 
 sugar, spice, and s butter, the latter being first melted, 
 beat again. Mix, the soda with the milk, and add to the 
 other mixture. Mix the cream-of-tartar with the flour, 
 and stir into the batter ; and finally add the vinegar or 
 lemon juice. Pour into two shallow pans, and bake for 
 twenty minutes in a moderate oven. 
 
 Lemon Cakes. 
 
 For about two dozen small cakes use half a cupful of 
 butter, one cupful of sugar, one cupful of flour, four eggs, 
 the grated yellow rind and the juice of one lemon, and 
 one-fourth of a teaspoonful of soda, 
 
 Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually beat the 
 sugar into it. Add the grated rind of the lemon ; then 
 the yolks of the eggs, well beaten. Dissolve the soda in 
 the lemon juice, and stir this into the other mixture. 
 Now add the whites, beaten to a stiff froth. Lastly add 
 the flour. Bake in small hearts, rounds, diamonds, etc. 
 When cold, ice them. 
 
 This cake may be baked in one sheet if that be pre- 
 ferred to the small cakes. 
 
 Pound Cake. 
 
 For two large loaves use two cupfuls of butter, two of 
 sugar, four of flour, a dozen large eggs, one-fourth of a 
 teaspoonful of mace, and half a gill of brandy. 
 
750 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Butter the pans, and line them. Measure the sugar, 
 flour, brandy, and cinnamon. Separate the eggs, putting 
 the whites in a large bowl and the yolks in a small one. 
 Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually beat the sugar 
 into it. When the mixture is light and creamy, add the 
 brandy and mace. Beat the yolks till light, and add 
 them to the beaten mixture. Beat the whites to a stiff 
 froth, and stir them into the mixture, alternating with 
 the flour. Pour the batter into the pans, and bake in a 
 moderate oven for about fifty minutes. 
 
 Rich Fruit Cake. 
 
 For four large loaves use one quart of sugar, one pint 
 of butter, one quart of flour, eighteen eggs, four pounds 
 of stoned raisins, three pounds of currants, one pound 
 and a half of citron, three-quarters of a pound of blanched 
 and pounded almonds, four ounces of cinnamon, six nut- 
 megs, one ounce of mace, one of clove, and one pint of 
 brandy. 
 
 Dredge the currants and raisins with one cupful of the 
 flour. Mix the spice with the remainder of the flour. 
 Beat the butter to a cream. Gradually beat in the sugar. 
 Add the brandy, a little at a time, beating until the mass 
 is smooth and creamy. Add the almonds, and beat well. 
 Now add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, then the 
 whites. Stir the flour in lightly, then the raisins and 
 currants. Spread the cake mixture in layers in the pans, 
 and spread thin slices of the citron on each layer. Bake 
 for four hours in a moderate oven. 
 
 Raisin Cake. 
 
 Use for two loaves a generous cupful of butter, two of 
 sugar, one of milk, four generous cupfuls of flour, five 
 eggs, one gill of brandy, two nutmegs, half a teaspoonful 
 of soda, and one quart of boiled raisins. 
 
 Put the raisins in a small stew-pan, and cover them 
 
CAKE. 751 
 
 with cold water. Cook them slowly for half an hour ; 
 then drain and cool them. 
 
 Beat the butter to a cream. Beat the sugar into it ; 
 add the brandy and nutmeg, and beat a little longer. 
 Add the yolks of the eggs, well beaten. Dissolve the 
 soda in the milk, and add this to the beaten ingredients. 
 Now add the flour. Stir in the well-beaten whites of 
 the eggs. Spread the batter in thin layers in two large 
 cake-pans, and sprinkle raisins on each layer. Continue 
 this until all the materials are used. Bake for two hours 
 in a moderate oven. 
 
 This cake keeps well. 
 
 Raised Loaf Cake. 
 
 For three loaves use two quarts of flour, two cupfuls 
 of butter, two cupfuls and a half of sugar, one cupful of 
 milk, one teacupful of yeast, or two- thirds of a yeast 
 cake dissolved in half a cupful of water, three eggs, one 
 gill of wine, one nutmeg grated, one pound of stoned 
 raisins, and one teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Beat the butter and sugar to a cream. Heat the milk to 
 the temperature of about 100. Pour it into a large bowl, 
 and add the yeast. Gradually beat into this liquid a quart 
 and half a pint of flour. Work half of the creamed sugar 
 and butter into this dough. Cover, and let it rise over night. 
 In the morning add all the other ingredients, except the 
 raisins, having the eggs well beaten. It will be necessary 
 to use the hands to work the ingredients together. Cover, 
 and raise it once more. When it has risen to a sponge, 
 add the raisins, and pour the batter into three buttered 
 pans. Let it rise in the pans for one hour. Bake for an 
 hour and a half. 
 
 . _ ,. _ , <T3ffS 
 
 Fig Loaf Cake. 
 
 Use two cupfuls of dark brown sugar, one of butter, 
 one of water, three and one-fourth of flour, four eggs, 
 
752 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 one teaspoonful each of cinnamon and nutmeg, half a 
 teaspoonful of ground clove, two teaspoonfuls of baking- 
 powder, half a pound of figs, cut in thin slices, and two 
 cupfuls of raisins. 
 
 Beat the butter to a cream, and beat the sugar into it. 
 Add the spice and the eggs, well beaten. Now add the 
 water, and finally three cupfuls of the flour, with which 
 the baking-powder should be mixed. Dredge the fruit 
 with the quarter of a cupful of flour. Bake in two 
 loaves in a moderate oven for two hours. 
 
 * Bread Cake. 
 
 For .three loaves use two generous cupfuls of yeast- 
 bread dough, two generous cupfuls of flour, two cupfuls 
 of sugar, one of butter, four eggs, two table-spoonfuls of 
 milk, one teaspoonful of soda, one of cinnamon, one of 
 grated nutmeg, half a pound of currants, and half a 
 pound of chopped raisins. 
 
 Beat the butter and sugar together ; then add the 
 yolks of the eggs, well beaten, and the spice. Now add 
 the dough, cut into bits, and work well together. Next 
 add the milk ; also the soda, dissolved in three table- 
 spoonfuls of water. Work very thoroughly ; and when 
 all the ingredients are blended, add the flour. Continue 
 the mixing, gradually working in the fruit. Finally add 
 the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Put the 
 batter into three well-buttered pans, and let it rise for 
 one hour. Bake for an hour in a moderate oven. 
 
 Twelfth-Night Cake. 
 
 There has been a tendency in late years to revive old 
 customs and amusements, and among the ancient diver- 
 tisements that have come into favor is the cutting of the 
 Twelfth-Night cake on January 6, the twelfth day after 
 Christmas, and sometimes called " Little Christmas." A 
 
CAKE. 753 
 
 long time ago the observances of Twelfth Night were 
 strictly of a religious character, but they changed mate- 
 rially, and the feature of the holiday became the elec- 
 tion of the King of the Bean. A rich or plain round 
 cake was made, containing a bean, a pea, and a clove j 
 and it was iced, and handsomely ornamented. When 
 the family and their friends had gathered in the evening, 
 the cake was cut ; and he who got the bean was declared 
 king, and she who found the pea was queen, while the 
 possessor of the clove was called the knave. The others 
 in the company were, for the time, maids of honor and 
 ministers of state. Sometimes the festival began early 
 in the day, and was continued until midnight. 
 
 In the revival of the celebration the cake has, of course, 
 a prominent place. Many games have been added. For 
 example, Twelfth-Night crackers (resembling favors for 
 the german) are provided ; and as they are pulled apart 
 by ladies and gentlemen, an explosion is caused. Within 
 each cracker will be found two pictures, which serve a 
 souvenirs ; and the characters they represent should be 
 assumed during the evening, making a carnival. 
 
 To return to the cake, it is best to have a plain one 
 for this occasion, because many people cannot eat rich 
 fruit cake, and also because of the difficulty that might 
 be experienced in finding the bean, pea, and clove in a 
 quantity of fruit. By following the appended rule a 
 cake will be made sufficiently rich for most tastes : 
 
 Use one cupful of butter, two of granulated sugar, four 
 of flour, one of milk, five eggs, the rind and juice of a 
 lemon, a teaspoonful of cream-of -tartar, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of sda. For the decorations there will be 
 required three cupful s of powdered sugar, the whites of 
 three eggs, one table-spoonful of lemon juice, half a 
 pound of French candied cherries, and a quarter of a 
 pound of angelica, unless the same amount of French 
 candied almonds be preferred. There should be three 
 fancy figures to represent the king, queen, and knave; 
 
754 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 and for the centre of the cake there should be a crowu 
 or a tiny Christmas-tree. 
 
 To make the cake, beat the butter to a cream, and grad- 
 ually beat into it the sugar and lemon juice and grated 
 rind. Add the milk, then the eggs, well beaten, and finally 
 the flour, thoroughly mixed with the soda and cream-of- 
 tartar. Have at hand a large round pan, well buttered, 
 and pour the mixture into it. Drop the bean and clove 
 into one side of the cake, marking their location by two 
 clean broom-straws, and drop the pea into the other side. 
 The straws will not make the cake heavy, and can be 
 drawn out at the proper time. Place the pan in a mod- 
 erate oven, and bake for an hour and a quarter. 
 
 After the cake has been baked and has become par- 
 tially cool, put the white of one egg into a bowl, and 
 gradually stir into it a cupful of powdered sugar. Spread 
 this mixture over the cake, and while it is hardening, 
 make the icing for decoration. Put the whites of two 
 eggs into a bowl, and beat into them two cupfuls of con- 
 fectioners' sugar. The addition of sugar should be made 
 very slowly, about two minutes being used for each table- 
 spoonful. Probably an hour will be needed for beating 
 the icing. Add the lemon juice, and beat about three 
 minutes longer. 
 
 Spread a thin coat of this icing over the cake. Have 
 ready a bag made by folding a piece of rubber sheeting, 
 about ten inches square, into a triangular shape, and sew- 
 ing the two edges together. Cut the rubber at the apex 
 just enough to permit a confectioners' small tube to be 
 pushed through, a tube having at its point small teeth 
 like those of a saw. Pour the remainder of the icing 
 into this bag, and decorate the cake with it. Part should 
 be pressed through the tube, and formed in a wreath on 
 top of the cake, and near the edge. Another wreath 
 should be put around the side of the cake, and near the 
 top, and a third at the base. Make also a small circle 
 in the centre of the top. 
 
CAKE. 755 
 
 Have the cherries cut in two, and the angelica cut in 
 half-disks. Dispose the cherries tastefully on the large 
 wreath on top of the cake, and also on that at the bottom, 
 and arrange the angelica on the wreath at the top of the 
 sides, as well as on the small circle in the centre. It is 
 important throughout the work not to lose knowledge of 
 the location of the bean, pea, and clove. Withdraw the 
 straws, and set the figures of the king and knave on 
 the side containing the bean and clove, and the figure of 
 the queen on that in which the pea was put. Place the 
 little tree in the centre. 
 
 In serving the cake, the part containing the pea should 
 be offered to the ladies, and the other half to the gentle- 
 men. It is hardly necessary to say that a very plain 
 cake, with a simple icing, and a little color in the way 
 of candied fruit or confectionery, may afford just as good 
 sport as that made by the foregoing receipt; but the 
 design is to show how a genuine Twelfth-Night cake is 
 made, and it is hoped that the directions may not, be- 
 cause of their fulness, give anybody the erroneous 
 impression that the work is very difficult. 
 
 Mocha Cake. 
 
 There are three divisions in the making of this cake, 
 giving the receipt the appearance of intricacy, although 
 the work is really simple enough. For the first step 
 these ingredients are required : a cupful of sugar, half a 
 cupful of butter, half a cupful of corn-starch, a scant 
 half-cupful of milk, a cupful and a quarter of flour, the 
 whites of three eggs, half a teaspoonful of cream-of-tartar, 
 and a quarter of a teaspoonful of soda. Butter two 
 shallow cake-pans, and line them with paper. Next beat 
 the half-cupful of butter till creamy, and gradually beat 
 the sugar into it. Mix the flour, cream-of-tartar, and 
 soda, and rub through a sieve ; mix also the corn-starch 
 and milk. Beat the whites of eggs to a stiff froth. Add 
 
756 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 the corn-starch and milk to the blended butter and sugar, 
 and then add the egg froth and the flour. Mix thor- 
 oughly but quickly, and spread the batter in the cake- 
 pans. Bake in a moderate oven for about half an hour. 
 
 While the cake is cooking, make some mocha cream. 
 Tie loosely, in a piece of cheese-cloth, four large table- 
 spoonfuls of fine-ground coffee, and after putting it into 
 a coffee-pot, pour upon it half a cupful of boiling water. 
 After boiling gently for ten minutes, remove the coffee- 
 pot from the stove ; and ten minutes later, pour out the 
 liquid. Eeserve three table-spoonfuls, and, putting the 
 remainder into a large cup, add milk enough to fill to 
 the brim. Put this liquid mixture on the stove in a 
 double-boiler. Beat together two table-spoonfuls of flour, 
 a cupful of sugar, an egg, and the yolks of those four 
 eggs the whites of which were used for the cake. Stir 
 this mixture into the coffee when it boils, and cook for 
 twenty minutes, stirring frequently. Set the mixture 
 where it will cool, and when it is only blood-warm, beat 
 into it two table-spoonfuls of butter, a little at a time. 
 Spread on one sheet of the cake, and, placing over it the 
 remaining sheet, ice the top. 
 
 Make the icing in this way : Into the unbeaten white 
 of an egg gradually beat a cupful of powdered sugar ; 
 then add the three reserved spoonfuls of coffee, and 
 after beating well, add enough sugar to stiffen the icing, 
 perhaps half a cupful, though only a small quantity 
 at a time. Spread the icing upon the cake, and set away 
 to harden somewhat. It should, however, be soft rather 
 than brittle. 
 
 Portsmouth Orange Cake. 
 
 This calls for four large eggs, a cupful of powdered 
 sugar, a cupful of granulated sugar, a cupful of flour, 
 measured after a sifting, a teaspoonful of baking-powder, 
 four sweet oranges, and the rind and juice of half a 
 lemon. 
 
CAKE. 757 
 
 Grate the rind of one of the oranges into a deep plate, 
 and squeeze upon it the juice of half the orange. Add a 
 saltspoonful of tartaric acid. Let the grated rind and 
 the juice stand for at least half an hour, and meanwhile 
 mix the baking-powder with the flour, and then sift the 
 latter for a second timer 
 
 Separate the whites of the eggs from the yolks. Add 
 the sugar to the yolks, and beat until very light ; then 
 add the lemon rind and juice, and beat again. Beat the 
 whites to a stiff froth, and stir them, together with the 
 flour, into the blended yolks and sugar. This work must 
 be done lightly and quickly, portions of the flour and 
 egg being added alternately, and the mixture being cut 
 lightly with a spoon. Bake in two shallow pans in a 
 moderate oven for eighteen minutes. 
 
 While the cake is baking and then cooling, prepare the 
 oranges and icing. To make the icing, pour upon the 
 cupful of powdered sugar the orange juice and rind that 
 were put aside at the outset ; and with a good stirring 
 the work is completed. If the orange was very large 
 and juicy, more than a cupful of sugar may be needed ; 
 if, on the contrary, it was not large, a little more juice 
 may be required than can be extracted from half the 
 orange. The icing should be thick enough for spreading 
 smoothly and thickly over the cake. 
 
 Pare the three and a half remaining oranges, and with 
 a sharp knife cut them into thin slices, lengthwise. Re- 
 move all the seeds. When the cake has partially cooled, 
 spread upon one sheet the sliced orange and the juice 
 which is drawn in the act of slicing. Lay the second 
 sheet upon the first, and after spreading with icing, set 
 away until the icing has become hard. The cake will be 
 ready in an hour or two. 
 
 Lemon Jelly Cake. 
 
 This cake is made of a teacupful of sweet cream, 
 two teacupfuls of sugar, two of flour, two eggs, a tea- 
 
758 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 spoonful of cream-of-tartar, and half as much soda. 
 Beat the eggs till very light; then add the sugar, and 
 beat five minutes longer. Add the cream, and finally 
 the flour, with the soda and cream-of-tartar mixed with 
 it. Wash a small quantity of butter in cold water, so as 
 to extract all salt from it ; then use it for buttering four 
 deep tin plates. Pour the batter into these plates, and 
 bake in a moderate oven for about twenty minutes. 
 
 To make the jelly or filling, take a cupful of sugar, the 
 grated rind of one lemon, and the juice of one and a half, 
 two eggs, and two table-spoonfuls of water. Beat the 
 eggs well, and then put all the ingredients on the stove, 
 in a basin, to cook for seven minutes over a slow fire. 
 Stir all the while. On taking the mixture from the fire, 
 let it cool ; then spread upon two of the cakes, and place 
 the remaining cakes upon the first two. 
 
 Lemon jelly cake should not be made unless it is to be 
 served fresh. 
 
 Chocolate Cake. 
 
 Use six eggs, a cupful of sugar, a quarter of a pound 
 of Baker's chocolate, the grated rind and the juice of 
 half a lemon, a table-spoonful of flour, a quarter of a 
 teaspoonful each of cinnamon, clove, and baking-powder, 
 and about two table-spoonfuls of currant jelly. A table- 
 spoonful of flour may seem like a small quantity, but is 
 enough. 
 
 Grate the chocolate, and add to it the spice, flour, and 
 baking-powder. Beat the yolks of the eggs ; and after 
 adding the sugar, beat until very light. Add the lemon 
 juice and rind; and* when all these ingredients have 
 been well blended, put the dry mixture with them. At 
 the last moment, taking a spoon, cut in the whites of 
 the eggs, which should previously be beaten to a stiff 
 froth. Pour about half an inch thick into shallow pans, 
 and bake for half an hour in a moderate oven. Two 
 sheets may be made with this quantity of batter. When 
 
CAKE. 759 
 
 they are cool, spread one sheet with a thin layer of 
 currant jelly, and place the other upon the first. If 
 you choose, frost lightly with soft icing, and cut into 
 squares. 
 
 This is a nice cake even without icing, and is espe- 
 cially good with vanilla ice-cream. Indeed, it is more 
 like a delicate confection than a cake. If one conclude 
 to have an icing, it should be made by breaking an egg 
 into a bowl, gradually adding a cupful of powdered sugar, 
 and beating well with a spoon. Half a teaspoonful of 
 vanilla extract gives the proper flavor. 
 
 Use three cupfuls of sugar, three of flour, eight eggs 
 (putting aside the white of one for the filling, which is 
 to be made later), six table -spoonfuls of water, the juice 
 of a lemon, and three teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 
 
 Beat the sugar and yolks of the eggs together until 
 light. Beat the whites to a stiff froth.- Mix the baking- 
 powder and flour. Add the lemon juice and water to 
 the beaten yolks and sugar; then add the whites, and 
 finally the flour and baking-powder. Spread this mix- 
 ture in three shallow pans that have been well buttered, 
 and bake in a moderate oven for about twenty-five 
 minutes. 
 
 Meanwhile make the filling, taking for this purpose, 
 four ounces of chocolate, half a pint of boiling water, 
 one cupful of sugar, half a cupful of cream, one tea- 
 spoonful of vanilla extract, and the white of an egg. 
 Scrape the chocolate, and put it into a small frying-pan 
 with eight table-spoonfuls of the sugar and. four table- 
 spoonfuls of the hot water. Stir over a hot fire until the 
 mixture becomes smooth and glossy ; then add the re- 
 mainder of the boiling water, the cream, and the remain- 
 der of the sugar. Stir until the mixture boils up, and 
 then add the spoonful of vanilla extract and the white of 
 the egg, beaten well. 
 
760 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 When the filling gets cool, spread it between the sheets 
 of cake, thus having two layers of chocolate and three of 
 cake. A thin coating of chocolate may be put on the top 
 sheet of cake. 
 
 This delicious cake is made in three parts, as follows : 
 
 First. Put into a saucepan one cupful of sugar, half 
 a cupful of milk, half a cupful of grated chocolate, the 
 yolk of one egg, and a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. 
 Beat the mixture well, and place it on the stove. Stir 
 frequently until it begins to boil ; then let it simmer 
 until it becomes smooth. Set away to cool. 
 
 Second. Beat half a cupful of butter until it becomes 
 creamy, and gradually beat into it one cupful of sugar. 
 Add two well-beaten eggs, half a cupful of milk, in which 
 a scant teaspoonful of soda has been dissolved, two cup- 
 fuls of flour, and finally the cooled chocolate mixture. 
 Bake in four deep tin plates, in a moderate oven, for 
 about twenty minutes. When the cakes are cool, spread 
 between them, and over the top sheet, layers of icing 
 made as follows: 
 
 Third. Boil two cupfuls of sugar with one-fourth of 
 a cupful of water for five minutes. Beat the whites of 
 two eggs to a stiff froth, and pour the hot syrup upon 
 them, beating all the while. The syrup must be poured 
 in a thin, thread-like stream. 
 
 Cream Walnut Cake. 
 
 This is made in three parts, first the cake proper, 
 then the icing, and finally the filling. 
 
 To Make the Cake. Use one cupful of sugar, half 
 a cupful of butter, half a cupful of milk, two cupfuls 
 of sifted flour, two eggs, and two level teaspoonfuls 
 of baking-powder. Beat the butter to a cream, and 
 gradually beat into it the sugar ; then add the eggs, 
 
CAKE. 761 
 
 well beaten ; next the milk, and afterward the flour, 
 mixed with the baking-powder. Spread this mixture 
 smoothly in four deep jelly-cake plates, and bake in a 
 moderate oven for eighteen minutes. On taking the 
 cakes from the oven place them on plates ; and when 
 they have become partially cooled, ice two of them. 
 
 To Make the Icing. Put the white of a small egg 
 into a bowl, and gradually beat into it two-thirds of a 
 cupful of powdered sugar and two table-spoonfuls of 
 sherry. The icing will be very thin, but this is what is 
 desired. 
 
 To Make the Filling. Soak two table-spoonfuls of 
 gelatine in four table-spoonfuls of cold water for two 
 hours. Put a generous quart of whipped and drained 
 cream into a small tin or granite-ware basin, and % place 
 this basin in a pan of ice-water. Sprinkle over the 
 cream four table-spoonfuls of % powdered sugar and two 
 of sherry. Pour two table-spoonfuls of boiling water 
 over the soaked gelatine, and stir until the latter is dis- 
 solved. Strain the liquid into the cream, stirring from 
 the bottom all the while. When the mixture has become 
 so thick that a spoonful of it will not sink into the rest 
 when dropped, it will be ready for spreading on the 
 cake. 
 
 Spread half of the cream on the two cakes that have 
 not been iced. Sprinkle over these same cakes one- 
 third of a cupful of fine-chopped English walnuts ? and 
 spread the remainder of the cream over all. Put the 
 iced cakes on top, and set away in a cold place. The 
 cakes may be decorated with cream walnuts obtained of 
 a confectioner. 
 
 Othello Cake. 
 
 For the cake there will be required one cupful of 
 sugar, half a cupful of butter, one cupful and three- 
 fourths of flour, half a cupful of milk, the whites of two 
 eggs, and the yolks of four, one teaspoonful of baking- 
 
762 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 powder, half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract, and one 
 ounce of chocolate. 
 
 Scrape the chocolate, and put it in a small frying-pan 
 with three table-spoonfuls of the sugar and one table- 
 spoonful of water. Beat the butter to a cream, and 
 gradually beat into it the sugar. Place the frying-pan 
 with the chocolate over a hot fire, and stir until the 
 chocolate mixture is smooth and glossy. Add this and 
 the vanilla to the creamed sugar and butter. Beat well ; 
 then gradually beat in the milk. Next add the yolks of 
 the eggs, well beaten ; then the flour, in which the baking- 
 powder has been mixed; and finally the whites of the 
 eggs, well beaten. Spread this mixture in four well- 
 buttered Washington-pie plates. Bake about eighteen 
 minuses in a moderate oven. 
 
 Icing. For the icing use the whites of two eggs, two 
 cupfuls of powdered sugar, two ounces of chocolate, two 
 table-spoonfuls of water, one teaspoonful of vanilla ex- 
 tract, and one pint of walnut meats. 
 
 Put aside half a pint of whole walnut meats ; chop the 
 remainder moderately coarse. Scrape the chocolate, and 
 put it in a small frying-pan with six table-spoonfuls of 
 sugar and two table-spoonfuls of the water. Put the 
 whites of the eggs in a bowl, and add a table-spoonful of 
 sugar to them. Beat for five minutes ; then add another 
 table-spoonful of sugar. Continue this until all the sugar 
 has been beaten into the eggs. Now put the frying-pan 
 over a hot fire, and stir until the chocolate is smooth and 
 glossy. Pour this preparation into the icing ; add the 
 vanilla, and stir well. Put two of the cakes on plates ; 
 spread a layer of the icing on each cake. Sprinkle the 
 chopped walnut meat over the icing, and put the other 
 two cakes on top of the first two. Cover them with 
 icing, and decorate with the whole walnut meats. Set 
 in a cool place to harden the icing. 
 
CAKE. 
 
 Neapolitan Cake. 
 
 This cake is made of four colors, white and pink, 
 yellow arid brown. For the white and pink cake use 
 half a cupful of butter, one of sugar, two cupfuls of 
 flour, half a cupful of inilk, the whites of four eggs, 
 one teaspoonful of baking-powder, half a teaspoonful 
 of vanilla extract, and about one teaspoonful of liquid 
 cochineal. Beat the butter to a cream ; gradually beat 
 in the sugar. Add the flavor. Beat in the milk, a little 
 at a time. Add the flour, in which the baking-powder has 
 been well mixed ; and last of all, add the whites of the 
 eggs, well beaten. Spread one-half of this batter in a 
 shallow cake-pan ; to the other half add the cochineal, a 
 few drops at a time, until the mixture is colored pink. 
 Spread this in a second pan, and bake in a moderate 
 oven for twenty minutes. 
 
 For the yellow and brown cake use half a cupful of 
 butter, one of sugar, half a cupful of milk, one and three- 
 fourths cupfuls of flour, the yolks of four eggs and one 
 whole egg, one teaspoonful of baking-powder, one ounce 
 of chocolate, three additional table-spoonfuls of sugar, 
 one table-spoonful of water, and half a teaspoonful of 
 vanilla extract. Make the cake the same as the white 
 and piuk. Put the scraped chocolate, the three table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, and the water in a small frying-pan ; 
 stir over a hot fire until smooth and glossy. Add this 
 to one-half of the cake batter. Bake the yellow and 
 brown cake in two pans, like those in which the white 
 and pink were baked, in a moderate oven for about 
 twenty-two minutes. Beat three table-spoonfuls of pow- 
 dered sugar into the unbeaten white of one egg ; add a 
 table-spoonful of orange juice to this. Spread a thin 
 layer of this icing on the pink cake; place the white 
 cake on it, and spread over this a thin layer of the icing. 
 Add the yellow cake, and spread the remainder of the 
 icing on itj and place the brown cake on this. Put a 
 
764 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 sheet of tin on top of the last layer, and on the tin place 
 two bricks. Let the cake stand for an hour or two, and 
 then take off the weights. This cake may be frosted or 
 not, as one pleases. 
 
 October Cake. 
 
 Make half of the rule for rich cup cake. Spread it in 
 three Washington-pie plates, and bake in a moderate 
 oven for twenty minutes. Make half the rule for boiled 
 icing, but boil the sugar and water for ten minutes. Add 
 to it a generous half-cupful of cocoanut, freshly grated, 
 or about one-third of a cupful of the desiccated cocoanut. 
 Make the rule for chocolate icing, using, however, only 
 two-thirds of a cupful of sugar. Beat half a tumbler of 
 currant jelly until so smooth that it will spread easily. 
 Put one cake on a large plate, and spread the cocoanut 
 icing on it ; place a cake on top of this, and spread the 
 chocolate icing on it. Now put the third cake on top of 
 the others, and spread the jelly over it. The icings and 
 jellies are to be spread so that they shall run over the 
 edges of the cake, the mingled colors giving the autumnal 
 effect. 
 
 Cocoanut Cake. 
 
 Half a cupful of butter, one cupful of sugar, two cupf uls 
 of flour, half a cupful of milk, half a cupful of desiccated 
 cocoanut, or one cupful of freshly grated fruit, the whites 
 of three eggs, the juice of one lemon, one teaspoonful of 
 cream-of-tartar, and one level teaspoonful of soda. 
 
 Soak the cocoanut in the milk. Beat the butter to a 
 cream ; beat the sugar into it ; add the lemon juice, and 
 beat two minutes longer. Now add the milk and cocoa- 
 nut, and beat well. Then add the whites of the eggs, 
 beaten to a stiff froth. Add the flour, in which the soda 
 and cream-of-tartar have been mixed. Beat quickly, and 
 pour into two shallow pans. Bake for half an hour in a 
 moderate oven. 
 
CAKE. 765 
 
 Ice-cream Cake. 
 
 For the cake proper there will be required half a cup- 
 ful of butter, one cupful and a half of sugar, two cupfuls 
 of flour, half a cupful of milk, the whites of five eggs, 
 two level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of vanilla extract. 
 
 Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually beat into 
 it the sugar, and then the vanilla. Now add the milk, 
 and also the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. 
 Finally stir in the flour and baking-powder, mixed to- 
 gether. Pour this batter into shallow cake-pans that 
 have been well buttered, and bake in a moderate oven 
 for twenty-five or thirty minutes. When cool, ice. 
 
 To make the icing, put two cupfuls of granulated sugar 
 into a stew-pan with half a cupful of boiling water, and 
 boil gently for ten minutes. Beat the whites of two 
 eggs to a stiff froth. When the syrup is cooked, pour it 
 gradually upon the beaten whites. There should be only 
 a thin stream of syrup, and the eggs should be beaten all 
 the while the syrup is poured. Two persons can do this 
 work better than one. Continue beating the whites for 
 two .minutes after all the syrup has been added ; then 
 add half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. 
 
 Spread a thick layer of the icing on one sheet of the 
 cake. Place the other sheet on top of the first, and ice 
 the top and sides. The cake will be ready for use in an 
 hour. It may be kept for days. 
 
 *Hot Tea Cake. 
 
 Beat together a table-spoonful of butter and a cupful 
 of sugar, and when they are well mixed add two well- 
 beaten eggs. Continue the beating for a while, and then 
 add a cupful of sweet milk. Put two cupfuls of sifted 
 flour into a sieve with three teaspoonfuls of baking- 
 powder, and after mixing the two ingredients well, sift 
 them into the bowl containing the first mixture. Stir 
 
766 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 well, and season with a slight grating of nutmeg. Pour 
 the mixture into two buttered shallow pans, and bake in 
 a moderate oven for twenty minutes. 
 
 
 * Blueberry Cake. 
 
 For two sheets of cake take a cupful of sugar, a table- 
 spoonful of butter, an egg, three cupf uls of blueberries, 
 or more, if you choose, a cupful of milk, two cupf uls 
 and a half of sifted flour, three teaspoonfuls of baking- 
 powder, and a light grating of nutmeg. 
 
 Bub the butter and sugar together. Break the egg 
 upon this mixture, and beat thoroughly; then add the 
 milk, and next the flour, in which the nutmeg and baking- 
 powder have been mixed. Beat quickly and vigorously, 
 and afterward stir in the berries very gently. Pour into 
 buttered pans, and bake in a rather hot oven for thirty- 
 five minutes. 
 
 * Poverty Cake. 
 
 Make this of one cupful of sugar, two cupfuls and a 
 half of sifted flour, one large table-spoonful of butter 
 (lard or drippings will do), one teaspoonful of cream-of- 
 tartar, half a teaspoonful of soda, or one teaspoonful and 
 a half of baking-powder, half a teaspoonful of salt, and 
 one cupful of milk. 
 
 Have the butter soft, and rub it together with the 
 sugar. Mix the soda with the flour, and rub through 
 the sieve. Add the milk to the sugar and butter ; then 
 add the flour and a little nutmeg. Bake in shallow pans 
 in a rather quick oven for twenty-five minutes. 
 
 A few currants make a pleasant change. The quanti- 
 ties given will make two sheets. 
 
 * Soft Sugar Gingerbread. 
 
 This is a delicious gingerbread, and is made of two 
 cupfuls of .sugar, one of milk, three of flour, two-thirds of 
 a cupful of butter, two eggs, one teaspoonful of creamof- 
 
CAKE. 767 
 
 tartar, half a teaspoonful of soda, and one table-spoonful 
 of bright yellow ginger. 
 
 Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually beat the 
 sugar into it. Add the ginger, the eggs, well beaten, 
 the milk, and finally the flour, mixed with the soda 
 and cream-of-tartar. Spread this batter in four buttered 
 shallow cake-pans, and bake for a quarter of an hour in 
 a rather quick oven. On removing the gingerbread from 
 the oven, sprinkle it with sugar. Cut it into broad strips, 
 and spread on a large dish to cool. It will, of course, be 
 very thin. If one prefer, ginger not so strong as the 
 yellow kind may be used. 
 
 *Troy Molasses Cake. 
 
 Mix together half a cupful of sugar, half a cupful of 
 molasses, and a table-spoonful of butter. Dissolve an 
 even teaspoonful of soda in half a cupful of sweet 
 milk, and add it to the mixture ; add also an egg, well- 
 beaten ; and after mixing all these ingredients thor- 
 oughly, add two cupfuls of flour. Give the batter another 
 good stirring, and spreading it two inches thick in 
 shallow tin pans, bake it in a rather quick oven for from 
 twenty to twenty-five minutes. This cake when hot is 
 particularly nice for luncheon. 
 
 * Delicate Molasses Gingerbread. 
 
 Use two cupfuls of flour, measured after sifting, one 
 cupful of molasses, half a cupful of sour milk or cream, 
 one teaspoonful of soda, one of ginger, half a teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, one generous table-spoonful of butter, and 
 one of water. 
 
 Put the molasses, milk, salt, and ginger in a bowl. 
 Dissolve the soda in the cold water, and add it, with the 
 butter, melted, to the mixture in the bowl. Now add 
 the flour, and beat quickly. Pour the mixture into three 
 deep tin plates that have been well buttered, and bake 
 
768 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 in a quick oven for from eighteen to twenty minutes. 
 Serve while fresh ; it will be especially nice then. 
 
 * Soft Molasses Gingerbread. 
 
 A cupful of molasses, a cupful of sour cream, two cup- 
 fuls of flour, an egg, a large teaspoonf ul of ginger, two 
 level teaspoonf uls of soda, and half a teaspoonf ul of salt 
 are blended to produce soft gingerbread. 
 
 Put the molasses, cream, salt, and ginger into a bowl. 
 Beat the egg well. Dissolve the soda in one table- 
 spoonful of cold water, and stir the liquid into the mix- 
 ture in the bowl. Add the beaten egg, arid then the 
 flour, and after beating the batter vigorously for one 
 minute, pour it into two buttered shallow pans, and bake 
 for twenty minutes in a rather hot oven. 
 
 *Bath Soft Molasses Gingerbread. 
 
 For three sheets of this delicious gingerbread use two 
 cupfuls of molasses, three of flour (measured before 
 sifting), one of buttermilk or sour milk, two-thirds of a 
 cupful of butter, one egg, one table-spoonful of soda, one 
 teaspoonf ul of ginger, or three if a strong flavor be 
 Desired. 
 
 Put the butter and molasses in a tin pan, and place 
 ^ne pah on the fire. When the molasses boils up, add 
 the ginger and soda. Take from the fire, and add the 
 milk and beaten egg; then sift the flour into the pan. 
 Beat well, and pour into three well-buttered pans. Bake 
 in a rather quick oven for twenty minutes. 
 
 * Buffalo Soft Molasses Gingerbread. 
 
 Use two cupfuls of molasses, one of sugar, one of sour 
 milk, four of flour, two eggs, one teaspoonful of soda, 
 two teaspoonfuls of ginger, a level teaspoonful of salt, 
 one teaspoonful of cinnamon, and two table-spoonfuls of 
 water. 
 
CAKE. 769 
 
 Beat the sugar and molasses together. Add the gin- 
 ger, salt, cinnamon, and sour milk. Dissolve the soda in 
 the water, and add it to the mixture. Now add the 
 eggs, well beaten, and lastly the flour. Bake in shallow 
 pans, in a moderately quick oven, for twenty minutes. 
 This quantity will fill four small cake-pans. 
 
 * Ginger Snaps. 
 
 Beat a cupful of butter in a warm bowl until it be- 
 comes soft and creamy; then gradually beat into it a 
 cupful of sugar, a cupful of molasses, and a table-spoon- 
 ful of ginger. Dissolve a teaspoonful of soda in half a 
 gill of cold water, and stir into the mixture already 
 prepared. Gradually add three pints of flour, beating 
 well all the while; then roll the batter very thin, cut 
 out the cakes, and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 * Cream Cookies. 
 
 If one be careful to use no more flour than the rule 
 states, and to have a quick oven for the baking, these 
 cookies will be very delicate. They are made of a cupful 
 of sour cream, two cupfuls of sugar, six of sifted flour, 
 an egg, a teaspoonful of soda, one-third of a teaspoonful 
 of salt, and half a nutmeg, or one table-spoonful of 
 caraway seeds. 
 
 Dissolve the soda in a table-spoonful of cold water. 
 Beat the egg till very light. Add the dissolved soda 
 to the sour cream ; then stir the sugar, salt, and egg into 
 the cream. Eeservs a small part of the flour, and add 
 the rest of the liquid mixture ; finally add the nutmeg, 
 grated, or the caraway seeds. 
 
 Sprinkle a board with about two table-spoonfuls of 
 flour, and after rolling a small piece of the dough down 
 to the thickness of one-third of an inch, cut it into cakes 
 with a round, plain, or fluted cutter. Continue rolling 
 and cutting the dough until all has been used. Place 
 
770 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 the cookies on tin sheets or in pans that have been 
 buttered lightly with washed butter, and bake in a quick 
 oven for six or seven minutes. When the cakes get 
 brown they will be cooked sufficiently. Cool on a sieve, 
 and put away in a tin box. 
 
 With the quantities of ingredients mentioned between 
 forty and fifty cookies may be made, the number depend- 
 ing, of course, upon the size of the cutter and the 
 thickness of the dough. 
 
 Scotch Cakes. 
 
 These are peculiar cakes, very rich and nutty in 
 flavor. One is apt to like them very much or not at all. 
 By following this receipt only a small quantity will be 
 made ; so, in experimenting, one need not waste a large 
 amount of materials. The measurements should be 
 exact, and great care should be taken in the mixing and 
 baking. 
 
 Only three ingredients are required, a cupful of 
 butter, half a cupful of sugar, and one pint and three- 
 fourths of flour. Mix the flour and sugar. Beat the 
 butter to a cream, and gradually beat it into the dry 
 mixture. The new mixture will be stiff and brittle, and 
 must be worked thoroughly with the hands until it be- 
 comes pliable. Sprinkle a board lightly with flour, and, 
 laying half of the mixture upon it, roll it down to the 
 thickness of about half an inch. Cut into four parts, 
 and pinch the edges with the fingers, to make little 
 scallops. Bake in a moderate oven for a quarter of an 
 hour. 
 
 These cakes are nice to serve with preserves, marma- 
 lades, and fruit jellies. 
 
 * Muster Gingerbread. 
 
 The materials required are : two cupfuls of molasses, 
 a generous half-cupful of butter or lard, seven cupfuls of 
 
CAKE. 771 
 
 sifted flour, two table- spoonfuls of milk, one of water, 
 one teaspoonful of salt, two of ginger, two generous 
 teaspoonfuls of soda, and one-fifth of a teaspoonful of 
 alum. One egg and half a cupful of milk or cream also 
 will be needed for glazing the cakes. If alum be objec- 
 tionable, substitute cream-of-tartar. 
 
 Melt the butter or lard, and mix it in a large bowl 
 with the molasses, salt, and ginger. Pour the table- 
 spoonful of boiling water on the alum. Dissolve the 
 soda in the milk, and add the milk and the boiling water 
 to the mixture in the bowl. Stir well, and then beat 
 in the flour. Let the dough stand for two or three hours, 
 or even over night ; then beat it again, and make it into 
 small balls. Koll these into squares about one-third of 
 an inch thick, and place in baking-pans. 
 
 Beat the egg well, and then beat with it the cream or 
 milk. Brush the mixture over the squares. Bake the 
 cakes in a quick oven from eight to ten minutes. 
 
 * Sugar Card Gingerbread. 
 
 Use one cupful of butter, one of sour milk, two of 
 brown sugar, two eggs, one teaspoonful of soda, two of 
 ginger, half a teaspoonful of salt, six scant cupf uls of flour, 
 and one table-spoonful of water. 
 
 Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually beat in the 
 sugar, and then the salt and ginger. Next add the eggs, 
 well beaten. Dissolve the soda in the table-spoonful of 
 cold water, and stir the water into the sour milk. Con- 
 tinue the stirring for a moment ; then add the liquid to 
 the mixture in the bowl. Gradually beat in the flour. 
 Sprinkle the board with a little extra flour, and, putting 
 about one-fourth of the dough upon it, roll down to the 
 thickness of about half an inch. Cut in squares, place 
 in buttered pans, and bake in a hot oven for about eight 
 minutes. 
 
772 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Cream Cakes. 
 
 Use one cupful of boiling water, half a cupful of butter, 
 one cupful and three-fourths of flour, two table-spoonfuls 
 of sugar, and five eggs. Put the water, sugar, and butter 
 on the stove in a flat saucepan, and when they boil up, 
 stir in all the flour at once. Beat well for four or five 
 minutes ; then, when the mixture becomes cooled, break 
 the eggs into a bowl, but do not beat them, and turn 
 out the broken eggs upon the paste, about half at a time. 
 Beat the new mixture for half an hour. When it be- 
 comes light, drop it on a tin sheet, allowing about a 
 table-spoonful for each cake, and having the cakes about 
 two inches apart. Bake for half an hour in a rather 
 quick oven ; then cut open the sides of the cakes with a 
 small sharp-pointed knife, and fill the cakes with cream 
 made as follows : 
 
 Put a cupful and a half of milk on the stove in a 
 double-boiler. Beat together two-thirds of a cupful of 
 sugar, two table-spoonfuls of flour, two eggs, and one- 
 fourth of a teaspoonful of salt, and stir the mixture into 
 the boiling milk. Cook for fifteen minutes, stirring 
 often. When cold, flavor with one teaspoonful of vanilla 
 extract. 
 
 Doughnuts and Crullers. 
 
 There seems to be a great diversity of opinion in 
 regard to what are crullers and what are doughnuts. In 
 some sections of the country only those cakes which are 
 raised with yeast are called doughnuts, those made with 
 soda and cream-of-tartar or baking-powder being called 
 crullers. 
 
 In other parts of the country fried cakes that are 
 made with sugar, butter, flour, eggs, and some kind of 
 flavoring are called crullers, and all kinds of fried cakes 
 into the making of which enter a liquid and some sub- 
 stance for lightening the dough, like baking-powder or 
 
CAKE. 773 
 
 yeast, are called doughnuts. It seems as if this distinc- 
 tion should be observed. 
 
 For frying doughnuts and crullers the fat should be 
 about four inches deep, when it is melted in the kettle. 
 Heat the lard slowly. When it is so hot that it hisses 
 if a small piece of dough be dropped into it, it is 
 ready for frying. If so hot that the dough turns dark 
 brown in a minute, remove to a cooler place before 
 putting in the doughnuts. Drop in but a few at a time. 
 They will fall to the bottom at first, but should rise again 
 almost immediately. When done, they should be drained 
 on a sieve or in a colander, then removed to a dish to 
 make room for the next batch. They must be handled 
 lightly, and as little flour as possible should be used in 
 cutting them out. 
 
 Crullers. 
 
 Use half a cupful of butter, one cupful of sugar, about 
 three cupfuls of flour, three eggs, one nutmeg, and the 
 grated yellow rind of a lemon. 
 
 Beat the butter to a cream. Gradually beat the sugar 
 into it ; then add the well-beaten yolks and the nutmeg 
 and lemon. Next add the whites, beaten to a stiff froth. 
 Beat in the flour, a little at a time. Sprinkle the mould- 
 ing-board with flour. Put about half the dough on it 
 and roll down to the thickness of half an inch. With a 
 jagging-iron cut this into long narrow strips, and twist 
 them into various shapes. Fry for about six minutes. 
 
 Dropped Doughnuts. 
 
 For a large plate of these doughnuts use half a cupful 
 of sugar, two table-spoonfuls of butter, half a cupful of 
 milk, two cupfuls of flour, three eggs, half a teaspoonful 
 of salt, one generous teaspoonful of baking-powder, and 
 a slight grating of nutmeg. 
 
 Beat the butter to a cream, and beat the sugar into it. 
 Add the grated nutmeg, the salt, and the eggs, yolks 
 
774 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 and whites, beaten separately. Now add the milk, and 
 finally the flour, with which the baking-powder should 
 be mixed. Beat vigorously for a minute. Drop this 
 batter by teaspoonfuls into fat, and cook for about five 
 minutes. Drain on brown paper, and sprinkle with 
 sugar. 
 
 Rich Doughnuts. 
 
 These are made of a quart of flour, a cupful of sugar, 
 three table-spoonfuls of butter, four eggs, one gill of 
 milk, the grated rind of one lemon, half a nutmeg, 
 grated, half a teaspoonful of salt, and two teaspoonfuls 
 of baking-powder, 
 
 Mix the baking-powder, salt, and nutmeg with the 
 flour, and rub the mixture through a sieve ; then rub the 
 butter into the ? flour. Beat the eggs until light, and beat 
 in the sugar and grated lemon rind. Add the milk, and 
 then pour the liquid upon the dry ingredients. Sprinkle 
 the moulding-board with flour. Put a small piece of 
 dough upon it, and after rolling down to the thickness 
 of about an inch, cut with a round cutter that removes a 
 piece from the centre. Fry the doughnuts in lard for 
 about six minutes. On taking from the fat, drain them 
 well ; afterward sprinkle with powdered sugar. 
 
 * Plain Doughnuts. 
 
 The materials are : one cupful and a fourth of sugar, 
 one cupful and a fourth of milk, two eggs, two teaspoon- 
 fuls of cream-of-tartar, one teaspoonful of soda, one tea- 
 spoonful of salt, one nutmeg, and flour enough to make a 
 soft dough, about three cupfuls and a half. 
 
 Beat the eggs very light, and beat the sugar into them. 
 Add the salt and the nutmeg, grated. Next add the 
 milk, and finally the flour, in which the soda and cream- 
 of-tartar should be mixed. Roll, cut, and fry the dough 
 the same as in making rich doughnuts. 
 
CAKE. 775 
 
 * Raised Doughnuts. 
 
 The materials are : one cupful of boiled milk, one of 
 sugar, half a cupful of butter and lard mixed, one egg, 
 one level teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth of a yeast cake 
 or one-fourth of a cupful of liquid yeast, one-fourth of a 
 teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a table-spoonful of 
 water, one grated nutmeg, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, 
 three gills of warm water, and about two quarts of flour. 
 
 About three o'clock in the afternoon make a sponge 
 with the water, yeast, and five gills of flour. Beat very 
 thoroughly, and after covering, set in a warm place to 
 rise. In the evening, about half-past nine, add all the 
 other ingredients, the egg being well beaten. Knead 
 the dough thoroughly, and after returning it to the 
 bowl, cover it, and set in a warm place Go rise. 
 
 In the morning knead the dough again, and let it rise 
 once more. When it is spongy again, sprinkle a board 
 with flour, and turn the dough on it. Do not knead it 
 this time. Eoll it down to the thickness of half an inch. 
 With a jagging-iron or a sharp knife, cut the dough into 
 any shape you like. One of the best is what is called 
 the twist ; cut long narrow strips of the dough, double 
 these, and twist loosely. Let the doughnuts rise on the 
 board for twenty minutes. They should be covered all 
 the while with a light cloth. Fry in lard for about six 
 minutes. 
 
 HOW TO ICE AND DECORATE CAKE. 
 
 When cake is to be iced it is always best to spread a 
 thin coating of icing over it while the cake is still warm. 
 Unless the first coat be put on thin and rough, the second 
 one will not stick. Now spread the cake thickly with 
 icing. If the royal icing be used, draw a clean knife 
 through it in the manner in which the cake is to be cut, 
 whether it be squares or slices. With the softer icings 
 this is not possible, as they would run together again. 
 
776 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Let the icing harden ; it will take only about an hour for 
 the surface to become hard, but several hours for it to get 
 dried all through. Never put it in a warm place to dry. 
 
 If the cake is to be decorated, the work can be done as 
 soon as the surface of the icing is dried. There will be 
 required one or two small bags, made of rubber sheeting, 
 also several confectioners' small tubes. In making a 
 bag a square of rubber sheeting, about a foot square, is 
 folded from two opposite corners, which gives it a trian- 
 gular shape. Stitch this ; then cut off a small piece at 
 the bottom, and press a tube into the opening (see illus- 
 tration for sponge fingers, p. 746). Fill the bag with royal 
 icing, and press this out in any design you please. Tubes 
 come in tin and brass ; but. as the tin do not keep 
 their shape, it % is better to buy those made of brass. 
 Both tubes and bags can be obtained at a confectioners' 
 supply store. 
 
 One must not expect to rival a regular confectioner in 
 the work of icing and decorating. It takes a good deal 
 of practice to do the work well. It is a good plan to 
 draw some designs on sheets of paper, place a sheet of 
 clear glass over this, and decorate with icing ; scraping 
 off and using the icing again and again until you can 
 execute the work satisfactorily. 
 
 When a name or date is to be placed on the cake, color 
 a little of the icing with a few drops of cochineal or a 
 little dissolved chocolate. Put a very small plain tube 
 in a bag, and then pour in the colored icing. Trace the 
 name or figures on the centre of the cake, and follow the 
 pencil lines with the tube. Or a pretty design can be 
 made by using the white icing with a rather large tube 
 that is serrated on one side and slightly flattened. This 
 will give broad, flat letters. Ornament these letters 
 with bright candied fruits, cut in small pieces. 
 
 After one learns how to use the bag and tube the 
 variety of decorations that may be used on cakes is 
 limited only by one's ability in designing. 
 
CAKE. 777 
 
 Royal Icing. 
 
 This icing must be made carefully, else it will not be 
 smooth and glossy, and keep its shape when pressed into 
 various forms. The exact amount of sugar cannot be 
 given for an icing which is made with the whites of eggs 
 and sugar, as the size of the eggs varies. About a tea- 
 cupful of confectioners' sugar to the white of an egg is 
 the proper amount as well as can be estimated. 
 
 Put the whites in a bowl with one table-spoonful of 
 sugar. Beat with a spoon for about five minutes ; then 
 add another spoonful of the sugar, and beat again. Add 
 all the sugar by spoonfuls, and beat well between each 
 addition. It takes nearly an hour to make this icing, 
 beating all the time. When it is done it will be light, 
 and hang from the spoon without falling. If the sugar 
 should be added too rapidly, the icing would not be smooth 
 and glossy. Flavor with lemon juice. Keep the dish 
 covered with a wet towel until you are ready to use it 
 
 * Cream Icing. 
 
 Put into a bowl the white of one egg, two table- 
 spoonfuls of water, and half a cupful of confectioners' 
 sugar. Beat well. Continue beating and adding sugar 
 until the mixture is smooth, and so thick that it can be 
 spread easily, and yet will not run off the cake. 
 
 This can be used for all simple icing. It may be 
 flavored with lemon or vanilla. If the water be omitted 
 a firmer icing will be the result. 
 
 This icing can be made in five minutes. It is only 
 suitable for spreading on plain cakes, as it will not hold 
 its shape. 
 
 * Chocolate Icing. 
 
 Scrape one ounce of chocolate, and put it into a small 
 frying-pan with three table-spoonfuls of sugar and one 
 of water. Stir over a hot fire until smooth and glossy. 
 Stir this into a cream icing. 
 
778 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Cocoanut Icing. 
 
 Beat the white of one egg rather light, and beat into 
 it one teacupful of powdered sugar. Add two table- 
 spoonfuls of lemon juice and one cupful of grated cocoa- 
 nut. Spread on the cake, and sprinkle grated cocoanut 
 over it. 
 
 * Coffee Icing. 
 
 Put half a gill of very strong coffee into a saucepan. 
 Add to it one cupful of confectioners' sugar. Stir over 
 the fire until it is warm ; then spread on the cake. 
 
 * Orange Icing. 
 
 Grate the yellow rind of an orange into a bowl. Add 
 four table-spoonfuls of juice, and let the preparation stand 
 for an hour or more. At the end of this time add half a 
 saltspoonful of tartaric acid. Stir well, and gradually 
 beat in powdered or confectioners' sugar until the icing 
 is thick enough to spread on the cake. It will take 
 about a generous cupful of Sugar. 
 
 Wine Icing. 
 
 Boil together for fifteen minutes one cupful of sugar 
 and half a cupful of water. Add to this half a gill 
 of wine, one table-spoonful of lemon juice, and enough 
 confectioners' sugar to thicken the mixture to a smooth 
 thin paste. Spread the icing on the cake while it is still 
 hot. 
 
 Boiled Icing. 
 
 Put in a small saucepan one cupful of granulated 
 sugar, one-fourth of a cupful of boiling water, and one- 
 fourth of a teaspoon ful of cream-of-tartar. Boil for six 
 minutes. Beat the white of an egg to a stiff froth, and 
 gradually beat into it the boiled sugar, pouring it in a 
 thin stream. Beat for five minutes after the last of the 
 sugar has been added. Flavor to suit your taste. 
 
 Do not stir the sugar while it is being boiled. 
 
CAKE. 779 
 
 Fondant Icings. 
 
 Put into a small granite-ware saucepan one cupful of 
 sugar and half a cupful of boiling water. Place on the 
 fire, and boil for twelve minutes. Take a drop of the 
 syrup on the point of a skewer. Let it cool slightly, 
 and then rub it between the thumb and finger. If on 
 drawing the finger and thumb apart, sticky threads are 
 formed, the sugar is done. Pour it, in that case, on a 
 large platter and let it cool. When so cool that it can 
 be handled, work it with the hands until a smooth creamy 
 mass is formed. This is the fondant. 
 
 When the cake is to be iced, put the fondant in a 
 saucepan, and place this pan in another containing boil- 
 ing water. Keep on the fire until the fondant is melted. 
 Flavor to suit the taste, and ice the cake. 
 
 This is a particularly nice icing for small cakes. Fasten 
 them on a skewer, and dip them in the icing. The icing 
 will be smooth and glossy, and also very soft. 
 
 Fruit Fondant Icings. 
 
 Put into a granite-ware saucepan one cupful of sugar 
 and half a cupful of boiling water. Boil rapidly for 
 fifteen minutes. Take up a drop of the syrup on the 
 point of a skewer, and put it in cold water. Kub it 
 between the fingers, and if it forms a firm ball the syrup 
 is cooked enough. If the ball cannot be formed, cook the 
 syrup until it will ball. Now add four table-spoonfuls 
 of any kind of fruit juice, and boil two minutes longer. 
 Try the syrup, and if it forms into sticky threads when 
 the fingers are drawn apart, it is cooked enough. Pour 
 it on a platter, and when cool, treat in the same manner 
 as the plain fondant icing. 
 
 When strawberry, raspberry, or any of the bright fruit 
 juices are used, a few drops of liquid cochineal should 
 be added if the icing be desired bright. 
 
780 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 
 
 YEAST. 
 
 IN cities and large towns one can obtain compressed 
 yeast, which is made fresh every day and gives satis- 
 factory results. It is less expensive to buy these cakes 
 than to make liquid yeast, and one avoids the trouble of 
 caring for her own production, it being necessary, of 
 course, to make at one time sufficient yeast for several 
 weeks' use. In the country it is impossible to get com- 
 pressed yeast, and either home-made yeast or dry yeast 
 cakes are used. Indeed, many people prefer the old- 
 fashioned hop or potato yeast to all others. When prop- 
 erly made, it certainly is as good as any kind. 
 
 One two-cent cake of compressed yeast dissolved in 
 two-thirds of a cupful of water is equal to a cupful of 
 home-made yeast. 
 
 *Hop Yeast. 
 
 The materials are : one pint of hot mashed potatoes, 
 half a pint each of salt, sugar, and flour, half a pint of 
 hops, measured lightly, four quarts and a half of boiling 
 water, half a pint of yeast, or one cake of compressed 
 yeast. 
 
 Put the hops in a stew-pan with one pint of boiling 
 water, and boil for twenty minutes. Mix the potatoes, 
 flour, sugar, and salt, and strain the hop water on them. 
 Beat this mixture well, and add the four quarts of boiling 
 water. Let this stand until blood-warm ; then add the 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 781 
 
 yeast, stirring well. Cover the bowl, and let it stand for 
 twenty-four hours. Skim and stir the yeast several 
 times. Put the yeast into one or two jugs, and cork 
 tightly. Keep in a cool place. 
 
 This yeast will keep for two months. In making 
 bread with it use very little salt. 
 
 * Hop-and-Potato Yeast. 
 
 With the following-named materials three quarts of 
 yeast may be made. In a small family one-third of this 
 quantity will be enough to make at one time, as it is 
 best not to use the yeast when it is very old. 
 
 Use six large potatoes, three quarts of boiling water, 
 one cupful of hops, measured lightly, two table-spoonfuls 
 of salt, two of sugar, and one cupful of yeast. Pare the 
 potatoes, and put them into a stew-pan with the hops, 
 tied loosely in a bag of thin muslin, and the boiling 
 water. Cook for half an hour ; then remove the pota- 
 toes with a skimmer, and mash them in a large bowl till 
 they are fine and light. Pour upon them the water in 
 which they were boiled, and add the sugar and salt. 
 Rub this mixture through a sieve, and let it stand until 
 it is about blood-warm (98) ; then stir in the yeast, and 
 cover the dish closely. Set in a warm place to rise ; in 
 a temperature of 75 it will rise in about six hours. 
 When it has risen sufficiently, the surface will be covered 
 with bubbles. It is, unlike many kinds of yeast, too 
 thin a mixture to foam. Put into air-tight glass jars, and 
 set in a cool place. It will keep for three weeks. 
 
 The potatoes and hops used in making this yeast should 
 be boiled in a porcelain-lined kettle or one of granite-- 
 ware, because a tin or iron kettle would make the yeast 
 turn dark. 
 
 * Water Bread. 
 
 This should be made in the morning, and these ma- 
 terials are enough for four small loaves : one quart of 
 
782 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 water, three quarts and three-fourths of flour, one table- 
 spoonful of salt, one table-spoonful of sugar, and half a 
 cupful of yeast. 
 
 Mix the yeast with one pint of water, at blood heat 
 and stir into this mixture a pint and a half of flour- 
 Beat thoroughly ; and after covering, set in a warm place 
 where it will rise. At the end of two hours it should be 
 a sponge. When it is well risen, add the remainder of 
 the water as well as the salt and sugar. Beat well, and 
 then beat in the remainder of the flour, reserving, 
 however, a cupful for the purpose of kneading. 
 
 Sprinkle a moulding-board with a part of this cupful, 
 and, turning out the dough upon the board, knead it from 
 twenty minutes to half an hour. Eeturn it to the bowl, 
 and let it rise until a light sponge is formed, say for 
 about two hours ; then shape it into loaves, put it into 
 pans, and let it rise until the loaves are double their 
 original size. About an hour will be required for this 
 rising. Set the pans into a moderate oven, and bake for 
 an hour. 
 
 If one prefer, all the ingredients may be put together 
 at once. In that case the dough should be kneaded for 
 half an hour, and then allowed to rise over night. In 
 the morning shape into loaves, and let it rise again ; 
 finally baking as already directed. 
 
 It makes the bread a little richer to work two table- 
 spoonfuls of butter into the dough ; or a pint of milk and 
 a pint of water may be used instead of a full quart of 
 water. If compressed yeast be used, half of a two-cent 
 cake, dissolved in one-third of a cupful of water, will be 
 equal to half a cupful of liquid yeast. 
 
 * Potato Bread. 
 
 For four large or six medium- sized loaves use one 
 quart of boiling water, three large potatoes, one-third of 
 a cupful of yeast or one-third of a cake of compressed 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 783 
 
 yeast, one table-spoonful of salt, and about three quarts 
 and a pint of flour. 
 
 Cover the potatoes with boiling water. Cook them for 
 half an hour; then drain and mash them. Pour the 
 boiling water on them. Let this stand until it is blood- 
 warm ; then add the yeast and three quarts of the flour, 
 beating it in with a spoon. Cover the bowl with a cloth, 
 and then with a board or tin cover, and let it rise over 
 night, nine or ten hours. 
 
 In the morning beat in the salt and half of the re- 
 maining flour. Use the remainder of the flour for knead- 
 ing the bread on the board. Knead for twenty minutes 
 or half an hour. Put the dough back into the bowl, and 
 cover it ; let it rise to double its size ; shape into loaves, 
 and let them rise to double their original size. Bake for 
 one hour in a moderately hot oven. 
 
 The addition of a table-spoonful of sugar and two or 
 three of lard or butter improves the bread for some tastes. 
 If these be used, add them with the salt, when the bread 
 is kneaded. 
 
 * Entire-Wheat Bread. 
 
 Many people confound entire-wheat flour with graham, 
 but it is very different. Graham is a coarse-ground 
 wheat meal; entire-wheat flour is the whole wheat 
 with the coarse husk discarded, of course ground to a 
 fine flour. It gives a brown loaf or roll, but a delicious 
 one, smooth and fine. 
 
 For two loaves of bread and a pan of rolls use two 
 generous quarts of the unsifted flour, a pint and a half 
 of warm water, one table-spoonful of sugar, one table- 
 spoonful of butter, half a table-spoonful of salt, half a 
 cake of compressed yeast or half a cupful of home-made 
 yeast. 
 
 After sifting the flour into a bread-bowl, put aside a 
 cupful for use in kneading the bread later, and put the 
 
784 MISS PABLO A'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 sugar and salt with the remainder. If the yeast be 
 compressed, dissolve it in a small quantity of the water. 
 Pour the remaining water and the yeast into the bowl, and 
 finally add the butter, somewhat softened by standing in 
 a warm place for a while. Beat the dough vigorously 
 with a strong spoon, and when it gets smooth and light, 
 sprinkle a moulding-board with a part of the flour that 
 was reserved, and turn the dough out upon the board. 
 Knead until smooth and elastic, say from twenty 
 minutes to half an hour ; then return to the bowl, and 
 after covering first with a clean towel, and then with a 
 tin or wooden cover, let it rise for about eight hours in 
 a temperature of about 70. If the temperature be 
 lower than 70, more time will be required for the 
 rising ; and of course, if it be higher, less time will be 
 needed. 
 
 If the dough be mixed in the morning, and kept 
 for four or five hours in a temperature of 80 or 90, 
 it will be in condition for baking in the afternoon. 
 When it has risen, butter lightly two bread-pans and 
 one roll-pan. Make enough rolls to fill the pan, shap- 
 ing them with the hands ; then put the remainder of 
 the dough on a board, and divide it into two loaves. 
 Let the rolls and loaves rise till they are double their 
 original size ; then bake in a moderate oven, the rolls 
 for half an hour, and the bread for an hour. 
 
 *Rye Bread. 
 
 Make rye bread in the same manner as entire-wheat 
 bread, substituting rye flour for the wheat flour. 
 
 * Graham Bread. 
 
 For two loaves use one quart of flour, one quart of 
 graham, half a cupful of molasses, half of a two-cent yeast 
 cake or half a cupful of liquid yeast, a level table-spoonful 
 of salt, and about seven-eighths of a quart of warm water. 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 785 
 
 Sift the flour aiid graham into a bowl. Turn the bran 
 into the bowl also. Then add the salt, water, yeast, and 
 molasses. Beat well with the hand for twenty minutes 
 or half an hour ; cover the bowl, and let the dough rise 
 over night. In the morning shape it into two loaves, 
 and let it rise in the pans to nearly double its size. Bake 
 in a moderate oven for one hour and a half. 
 
 Or, half the dough may be put into a bread-pan, and 
 the other half be made into rolls. The rolls should be 
 put into a French roll-pan. When they have risen to 
 fully double their size, bake in a moderately quick oven 
 for three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 This bread is mixed so soft that the dough cannot be 
 moulded into shape. It takes the form of the pans in 
 which it is baked. 
 
 The success of graham bread depends largely upon 
 thorough beating and baking. 
 
 * Buttermilk Bread. 
 
 When buttermilk can be obtained conveniently, a deli- 
 cious kind of bread may be made. For three good-sized 
 loaves use one quart of sour buttermilk, one generous 
 table-spoonful of sugar, one level table-spoonful of salt, 
 three table-spoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful of soda, 
 and two quarts and three-quarters of flour. 
 
 Heat the buttermilk to the boiling-point, stirring it 
 frequently to prevent curdling. Put the sugar in a large 
 bowl, and pour the hot milk on it. Now gradually sift 
 into this mixture one quart of flour, stirring all the while. 
 Beat well ; then cover, and let it stand in a warm room 
 over night, say from 9.30 P. M. to 6.30 A. M. 
 
 In the morning dissolve the soda in three table-spoon- 
 fuls of water, and add it to the batter, together with the 
 salt and the butter, melted. Beat thoroughly ; then grad- 
 ually beat in the remainder of the flour, reserving, how- 
 ever, half a cupful for kneading. 
 
786 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Sprinkle the board with flour, and, turning the dough 
 upon it, knead for fifteen or twenty minutes. Divide 
 into three parts, and shape into loaves. Place in but- 
 tered pans, and put into the oven im mediately. Bake 
 for one hour. 
 
 * Pulled Bread. 
 
 In England this kind of bread is served with the 
 cheese course of a dinner. It is also delicious with cof- 
 fee or chocolate at luncheon. To make it, divide one of 
 the loaves of water bread into eight equal parts. Roll 
 these pieces into strands the length of the bread-pan, 
 and, placing the strands close together, pinch them into 
 one piece of dough at one end. Now braid the strands, 
 as if they were pieces of ribbon or tape. Press the 
 braided mass until it is about the size of the pan, and 
 then put it into the pan. Let it rise, and then bake it 
 the same as the other loaves. Let it stand ten or fifteen 
 minutes after it comes from the oven ; then tear it apart 
 in long thin pieces. Spread these in a large dripping- 
 pan or upon a tin sheet, and bake in a very hot oven 
 until brown and crisp. It will take about a quarter of 
 an hour. Serve hot. 
 
 When this bread is desired for luncheon or dinner, the 
 work should be so timed that the bread will be ready 
 for putting into the oven about an hour and three-quar- 
 ters before the time for serving. The bread may, of 
 course, be prepared at any time, and heated again when 
 desired for the table ; but it will not be so good as when 
 crisp for the first time. 
 
 The dough for White Mountain rolls or that for po- 
 tato bread makes delicious pulled bread. 
 
 * Federal Loaf. 
 
 This is a kind of bread of which many people are fond 
 for luncheon or supper. The materials used are : a quart 
 of flour, one table-spoonful of sugar, one of butter, half 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 787 
 
 a teaspoonful of salt, the whites of two eggs, half a cup- 
 ful of yeast, and a scant cupful and a half of boiled 
 milk ; or water may be substituted for milk, though in 
 that case the quantity of butter must be doubled. 
 
 Beat the whites of the eggs until light. Add the milk, 
 sugar, and yeast, and pour the liquid upon the sifted 
 flour. Mix well with a spoon ; then turn out upon the 
 moulding-board, and knead for twenty minutes. Keturn 
 to the mixing-bowl, and after covering, let it rise in a 
 warm place for four hours. It should be a perfect 
 sponge in that time. 
 
 When the dough has risen, butter a bread-pan, the 
 kind used for loaves. Make the dough into rolls as 
 long as the pan is wide, and as these rolls are placed in 
 the pan, press them close together. Let them rise in a 
 warm place for an hour. Bake for one hour in a moder- 
 ately hot oven. On taking from the oven, wrap in a 
 towel for ten minutes ; and on removing from the towel, 
 tear the rolls apart from the top nearly to the bottom. 
 Spread soft butter between the parts, and press them 
 together again. Wrap in the towel until serving-time, 
 which should come soon, as the loaf is to be served 
 warm. It should be placed on the table whole, and each 
 person should break off a roll as the plate is passed. 
 
 The dough for a federal loaf may be used for common 
 rolls. It gives a delicate roll, whatever the shape. 
 
 * Parker House Rolls, 
 
 For a small pan of rolls enough for four persons 
 use a quart of flour, less a gill ; a generous half-pint of 
 milk, half a table-spoonful of sugar, a table-spoonful of 
 butter or lard, a level teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a 
 cupful of yeast or a quarter of a yeast cake. 
 
 Boil the milk, and let it cool. Sift the flour into a 
 bowl, and rub the butter, sugar, and salt into it. Draw 
 the flour to the sides of the bowl ; pour the cold milk 
 
788 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 into the well made by drawing the flour away from the 
 centre ; add the yeast ; cover the pan, and let it stand on 
 the kitchen table all night. 
 
 In the morning mix the rolls with a spoon, and then 
 knead the dough for twenty minutes or half an hour ; 
 return it to the bowl, cover it, and let it rise in a warm 
 place. When the dough has risen to three times its 
 original size, this will take about three hours, turn it 
 on to the bread-board, and roll it down to the thickness 
 of half an inch. Lift the dough frequently to let it 
 shrink. When it is rolled to the proper thickness, lift 
 it and let it shrink all it will. 
 
 Cut the dough with an oval cutter. Place a round 
 stick the handle of a spoon or fork will do on the 
 roll, about one-third of the distance from one end ; press 
 with the stick until the dough is about half as thick 
 here as in the other parts. Fold the short end of the 
 dough over, and the roll is shaped. 
 
 Half a teaspoonful of butter may be spread between 
 the folds if it be liked. Place the rolls in a buttered 
 shallow pan, cover with a cloth, and let them rise an 
 hour and a half in a warm place. They should rise to a 
 little more than double the original size. Bake in a hot 
 oven for twenty minutes. 
 
 This dough may be shaped like a French roll in this 
 way : Sprinkle the bread -board with flour ; roll the dough 
 into small balls, and drop them on the board. Flour a 
 very small rolling-pin or a long round stick, and press it 
 in the centre of the ball of dough. Spread a towel in a 
 pan ; sprinkle flour over it ; lay the rolls on this, the 
 split side down. The rolls must not touch each other. 
 Cover with a towel, and let the rolls rise in a rather cool 
 place until double the original size. Lift them gently 
 from the towel, and place them in a buttered pan the 
 split side up. Bake for twelve minutes in a hot oven. 
 
 A word of caution : In making Parker House rolls 
 remember that the flour is not mixed with the milk and 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 789 
 
 yeast until the ingredients have stood several hours. 
 Great care must be used in measuring the ingredients, 
 as nothing should be added afterward. The dough will 
 be very stiff. 
 
 If these rolls are wanted for supper, they may be 
 begun at eight o'clock, kneaded at twelve or one, allowed 
 to rise until half-past three o'clock, and then made into 
 rolls, which may rise in a cool place until twenty minutes 
 of six. Or, if they are wanted for a one-o'clock luncheon, 
 they may be put together at seven o'clock ; doubling the 
 quantity of yeast, kneading them at nine o'clock, and 
 shaping them into rolls at eleven o'clock. 
 
 Washington Rolls. 
 
 These call for three pints of flour, a scant pint of 
 milk, half a cupful of yeast or half of a two-cent cake 
 of compressed yeast, four table-spoonfuls of butter or 
 lard, one table-spoonful of sugar, one egg, and one tea- 
 spoonful of salt. 
 
 Sift the flour into a pan, and add the salt and sugar to 
 it. If compressed yeast be used, dissolve it in one-third 
 of a cupful of warm water. Dissolve the butter or lard 
 in the milk. Beat the egg till very light, and add it and 
 the yeast to the milk. At this time the milk should be 
 blood-warm, and after a little stirring the mixture should 
 be poured upon the flour. Beat well with a spoon ; then 
 turn the mixture upon a floured board, and knead for 
 twenty minutes. Return it to the pan, and, covering 
 closely, set it in a warm place. In four hours it should 
 be a perfect sponge. Work it down, and let it rise again. 
 When it has risen the second time, form into rolls of 
 any shape, and let these rise till they are a little more 
 than double the original size. Bake in a rather quick 
 oven for half an hour. 
 
 The rolls may be made about four inches long and an 
 inch and a half in diameter, placed close together in a 
 
790 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 shallow pan, and when they have risen, baked for half 
 an hour ; or they may be shaped like balls, placed a 
 little distance apart in the pan, and when they have 
 risen, baked for twenty minutes. Another mode is to 
 put the dough into French roll-pans, and when it has 
 risen, bake for twenty-five minutes. This method secures 
 a quantity of rich, crisp crust, and gives the rolls a pecu- 
 liar sweetness. 
 
 If six o'clock be the hour for tea, it will be well to 
 begin raising the dough at eleven in the forenoon. In 
 hot weather noon will be early enough. It takes about 
 an hour and a half for the rolls to rise to a little more 
 than double the original size in a temperature of about 
 80. When an especially tender and rich crust is de- 
 sired, brush the rolls over with soft butter or lard when 
 they are about half baked. 
 
 * Potato Rolls. 
 
 These will require a quart of flour, half a pint of milk, 
 one good-sized potato, one large table-spoonful of butter, 
 some boiling water, one-fourth of a cake of compressed 
 yeast or one-fourth of a cupful of liquid yeast, one level 
 teaspoonful of salt, and one table-spoonful of sugar. 
 
 Put the potato into a small saucepan, cover it with 
 boiling water, and cook for half an hour ; then remove it 
 from the saucepan, and mash it till fine and light. Add 
 to it half a cupful of the water in which it was boiled. 
 E-ub the mixture through a strainer into a bowl, and add 
 the milk, sugar, salt, butter, and yeast. Sift the flour, 
 and beat half of it into the liquid mixture. Cover the 
 dish closely, and set it in a warm place. When the 
 mixture has risen so much as to be perfectly spongy, 
 beat in the remainder of the flour. Knead the dough 
 well, and put it away to rise again. When it is three 
 times its original size, shape it into rolls, and let these 
 rise in a moderate temperature for about an hour and a 
 half. Bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 791 
 
 The first rising will occupy about five hours ; the 
 second, two hours ; and the third, one hour and a half. 
 The actual work of making the rolls will take about 
 three-quarters of an hour. If six o'clock be the time 
 for supper, the preparation of the rolls should be begun 
 at 8.30 or 8.45 o'clock in the morning. In case one be in 
 a hurry, the quantity of yeast may be doubled, and then 
 the rolls can be made in five hours. 
 
 * White Mountain Rolls. 
 
 Sift two quarts of flour into a mixing-bowl, and add 
 to it a teaspoonful of salt and three table-spoonfuls of 
 sugar. Boil a pint and a half of milk, and while it is 
 cooling to blood-heat, melt half a cupful of butter in it. 
 When the temperature has fallen to the desired degree, 
 beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth, and add them 
 to the milk. Add also half a cupful of liquid yeast, or 
 half a two-cent cake of compressed yeast dissolved in 
 one-third of a cupful of cold water. Stir this mixture 
 into the flour, and beat well with a spoon ; then knead 
 well for twenty minutes. Let the dough rise over 
 night. 
 
 In the morning take pieces about the size of an egg, 
 and shape them into long rolls. Place them side by side 
 in a shallow cake-pan, and let them rise to a little more 
 than double their original size. Bake for half an hour 
 in a moderate oven. Owing to the presence of milk and 
 butter in the mixture, the rolls will be very brown in 
 fifteen minutes; and after that time has passed, lower 
 the heat of the oven a little, and cover the rolls with 
 brown paper for the remaining quarter of an hour. 
 White Mountain rolls are nice for luncheon or tea. 
 
 Half of the dough may be taken for Swedish bread, 
 if you choose. Eoll it very thin, and sprinkle lightly 
 with water, and then with sugar and cinnamon, three 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar and one of cinnamon. Roll the 
 
792 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 same as jelly cake, and cut into slices about an inch 
 thick. Put these slices into a well-buttered pan, and 
 let them rise to double their size. Bake for twenty 
 minutes. The dough may be spread with butter instead 
 of being sprinkled with water. 
 
 Or the cinnamon may be omitted, and the dough 
 sprinkled with sugar and a cupful of dried currants. 
 These cakes are good to eat with coffee, either at lun- 
 cheon or after dinner. 
 
 Luncheon Rolls. 
 
 Use for these rolls two quarts of flour, one cupful of 
 sugar, one cupful of currants, two eggs, half a cupful of 
 butter, half a table-spoonful of salt, one pint and a quar- 
 ter of milk, and half a cupful of liquid yeast or half of 
 a two-cent cake of compressed yeast. 
 
 Boil the milk, and let it cool to about 100. At about 
 nine o'clock in the evening sift the flour into a bowl, and 
 add to it one table-spoonful of sugar, the salt, and three 
 table-spoonfuls of butter. Mix all these ingredients 
 thoroughly. Beat one of the eggs, and add to it the milk 
 and yeast. Stir this liquid into the flour, and knead 
 the mixture for twenty minutes. Cover the bowl with a 
 clean towel, and put a tin or wooden cover over the 
 towel. Let the dough stand on the kitchen table during 
 Jhe night. 
 
 In the morning it will be found spongy. Cut it well 
 with a knife, and knead for a few minutes ; then put in 
 a cool place till ten o'clock. At that time sprinkle the 
 moulding-board with flour, and after turning the dough 
 out upon it, roll down to the thickness of half an inch. 
 Cut into cakes between three and four inches long and 
 about half as wide. A pound baking-powder can is 
 easily pressed into the form desired, and serves very well 
 for a cutter. Spread the cakes with the remainder of 
 the half-cupful of butter, half of the remaining sugar. 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 793 
 
 and all the currants. Now fold up one end of the cake, 
 so that it conies almost to the centre, then fold the other 
 end upon the first, and press the dough slightly in the 
 centre. Place the rolls in buttered pans, cover them 
 with a towel, and let them rise for two hours in a rather 
 cool place. At the end of that time place them in a 
 moderate oven, and bake for twenty -five minutes. 
 
 Meanwhile beat the second egg well, and add a table- 
 spoonful of water to it. When the rolls have baked for 
 the specified time, take them from the oven, brush them 
 with the beaten egg, and sprinkle the rest of the sugar 
 over them. Return to the oven and cook for five min- 
 utes longer. 
 
 These rolls are nice either hot or cold. If they be 
 liked better when cold, they may be rolled out and baked 
 in the morning instead of being kneaded and chilled, 
 and baked later. 
 
 * Split Biscuit. 
 
 These are made for tea when bread has been baked in 
 the morning. Take one pint of the risen dough, and 
 add to it one scant pint of milk, two table-spoonfuls of 
 butter, four of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, and two 
 well-beaten eggs. Mix all the ingredients in a bowl, 
 cutting the dough with a knife. After the mixing, add 
 a generous quart of sifted flour. Knead the dough well, 
 and let it stand in a warm place for six hours, when it 
 should be a perfect sponge. Work it down well at the end 
 of that time. Sprinkle the moulding-board with flour, and 
 turning the dough upon the board, roll it down to the 
 thickness of about one-fourth of an inch. Dip a biscuit- 
 cutter in flour, and cut up the dough with it. Place half 
 of the cakes in buttered pans. Spread a little soft 
 butter on each cake. Take fresh cakes from the board, 
 and put them on top of those already in pans. Cover 
 with clean towels, and set away in a rather cool place, 
 say where the temperature is about 65. Let the biscuit 
 
794 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 rise till they are about double their original size. It 
 will take about two hours. Bake in a rather hot oven 
 for half an hour. Two good-sized pans of biscuit may 
 be made with the ingredients mentioned. 
 
 Velvet Biscuit. 
 
 Use one quart of flour, three eggs, three teaspoonfuls 
 of sugar, one of salt, one heaping table-spoonful of butter, 
 half of a cake of compressed yeast or half a cupful of 
 liquid yeast, and one small cupful of warm milk. 
 
 If these biscuit are for a six or seven o'clock tea, set 
 the sponge to rise at twelve o'clock. Dissolve the yeast 
 in one-third of a cupful of water. Pour it into a bowl 
 with the milk, beat in one pint of flour, cover the bowl, 
 and set in a warm place. When the batter is risen to a 
 sponge, which should be in about two hours, add the 
 butter, sugar, salt, the eggs, the yolks and whites 
 beaten separately, and the flour. Knead this mixture 
 well, and let the dough rise in a warm place. When 
 ^ight, roll it on the board to the thickness of half an 
 inch. Cut into cakes with a small round cutter. Place 
 half the cakes a little distance apart in a buttered pan. 
 Butter each of these cakes lightly, and place the remain- 
 ing cakes on those in the pan. Cover with a cloth, and 
 let them rise to double their original size, it will take 
 about an hour and a half. Bake in a moderately quick 
 oven for twenty-five minutes. These biscuit are nice for 
 luncheon. If desired at that time, set the sponge at 
 seven o'clock in the morning. 
 
 *Hot Cross Buns. 
 
 Use four cupfuls of flour, one generous cupful of warm 
 milk, half a cupful of sugar, one-fourth of a cupful of 
 butter or lard, half a teaspoonful of salt, half a grated 
 nutmeg, half a yeast cake or half a cupful of liquid 
 yeast, and two eggs. 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 795 
 
 Dissolve the butter in the milk. Beat the eggs sepa- 
 rately. Add all the ingredients to the flour, and knead 
 well. The dough should be very soft. Let it rise over 
 night ; in the morning break it into pieces about the size 
 of a large egg; work these into rather flat cakes, and 
 place them in buttered pans. Have the cakes about half 
 an inch apart. Cover the pan, and set in a warm place 
 when the buns have risen to double their original size, 
 which will be in about two hours. 
 
 With a sharp knife cut a cross in the centre of each 
 bun, being careful not to cut deep. Bake in a moderate 
 oven for twenty-five minutes. These buns are to be 
 served hot on Good Friday. They are good at any time, 
 but, according to custom, the cross should be made on 
 them only on that particular day. 
 
 * Bath Buns. 
 
 Make the buns the same as hot cross buns, only a 
 tittle larger. Into each bun work three or four blocks of 
 sugar. Dip each piece of sugar into orange or lemon 
 juice just before putting it into the bun. Let the buns 
 rise to double their height, and then bake in a moderate 
 oven for half an hour. 
 
 Dissolve three table-spoonfuls of sugar in three of 
 milk, and when the buns are baked, wash them over 
 with this and return them to the oven for two minutes. 
 
 * Currant Buns, 
 
 Make the bun mixture the same as for hot cross buns. 
 In the morning work in one cupful of English currants. 
 Form the dough into very small balls, and place these 
 close together in a buttered pan. Let them rise to 
 double their original size. Bake in a moderate oven for 
 thirty-five minutes. Wash with sugar and milk the same 
 as Bath buns. 
 
796 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Cream-of-tartar Biscuit. 
 
 Biscuit are made by a variety of methods, some being 
 raised with yeast, others produced quickly with the aid 
 of soda and cream-of-tartar, or with baking-powder, soda, 
 and sour milk, whereas others are made by the use of 
 preparations of phosphates, like Horsford's. 
 
 When yeast is used, the process is a slow one. Care 
 must be taken to have the temperature right, and to 
 raise the dough until it is light, yet not so much as to 
 destroy its sweetness. With soda and cream-of-tartar, 
 or any acid and alkali, the work must be very rapid to 
 insure success. By any of the methods the aim is to 
 obtain carbonic acid gas to lighten the dough. With 
 yeast we get it by fermentation, which goes on slowly ; 
 but witli an acid and alkali (as with soda and cream-of- 
 tartar) we get it by the union of the two substances. 
 This union does not take place until moisture is added ; 
 therefore we may mix the acid and alkali and keep them 
 together for years and still find them good, if they have 
 been kept dry and from the air. Baking-powders are 
 proof of this. They are, or should be, only a mixture 
 of pure soda, cream-of-tartar, and a little starch, which 
 is needed when grinding the two other substances 
 together. 
 
 By remembering a few things when using an acid and 
 alkali in cooking, it is possible to be morally sure of suc- 
 cess. First, the gas is given off as soon as the mixture 
 is moistened. Second, the greater the heat, the greater 
 the expansion of gas, air, and steam. To demonstrate 
 this, put a teaspoonful of baking-powder into each of 
 two tumblers ; and by pouring ice-water into one, you 
 will find that the gas expands and is given off slowly, 
 whereas by pouring boiling water into the second tumbler, 
 you fill it with expanded gas in an instant. As our ob- 
 ject in using the alkali and acid is to obtain this gas, and 
 thus make the dough or batter light, we should so use 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 797 
 
 them that but little of the gas will be lost. Now, to 
 make perfect biscuit or duinplings we must mix the 
 acid and alkali dry in the flour. This is always done if 
 baking-powder be used, and should be if soda and cream- 
 of-tartar be employed. The soda should be ground fine 
 on a plate with a knife or spoon, and then measured, 
 and put into the flour with the cream-of-tartar. After 
 a thorough mixing, the ingredients should be rubbed 
 through a sieve. The mixing and handling of the dough 
 should be rapid and light ; the biscuit should be cut 
 rather small, and baked in a hot oven; and as soon as 
 finished they should be removed from the oven, as they 
 will become tough and dark if allowed to remain even a 
 short time. 
 
 To Make Biscuit. Mix with a quart of flour (meas- 
 ured before sifting) a teaspoonful of soda, two of cream- 
 of-tartar, one of salt, and two of sugar, and after rubbing 
 all through a sieve, rub into the mixture a table-spoonful 
 of butter. Wet with a scant pint of cold milk ; and after 
 stirring the dough into the form of a smooth ball, roll it 
 down to the thickness of an inch upon a board lightly 
 sprinkled with flour. Cut out the biscuit, and, placing 
 them loosely in lightly buttered pans, bake from twelve 
 to eighteen minutes, the time depending upon the size 
 of the biscuit and the heat of the oven. If you prefer, 
 you may use three heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-pow- 
 der instead of the soda and cream-of-tartar. The dough 
 should be as soft as you can make it and yet handle it ; 
 for if it be rather stiff, the biscuit will be hard and dry. 
 
 Cream Biscuit. 
 
 Use for a small pan of biscuit two cupfuls of flour, 
 half a cupful of sour cream, half a cupful of sour milk 
 or buttermilk, one teaspoonful of baking-powder, one of 
 sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful 
 of soda. 
 
798 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Mix the sugar, salt, and baking-powder with the flour, 
 and rub through a sieve. Dissolve the soda in two table- 
 spoonfuls of cold water, and add it to the sour milk and 
 cream. Stir quickly and well, and then mix with the 
 dry ingredients. Mix as quickly as possible with a 
 spoon, and turn on a well-floured board. Pat with the 
 hand until a cake about half an inch thick is formed. 
 Cut this into, small cakes with a tin cutter, dipping the 
 cutter into flour each time. Bake in a hot oven for about 
 eight or ten minutes. 
 
 With the materials given a very soft dough will be 
 made, which must be handled quickly and carefully. If 
 heaping cupfuls of flour were used, the dough would be 
 firmer and more easily handled, but the biscuit would not 
 be so delicate. 
 
 * Dropped Biscuit. 
 
 For six people use one quart of flour, one pint of milk, 
 one teaspoonful of sugar, one of salt, three of baking- 
 powder, and two table-spoonfuls of butter. Mix all the 
 dry ingredients together, and rub them through a sieve. 
 Put the butter and a gill of the milk in a basin, and heat 
 enough to melt the butter ; then add the remainder of 
 the milk, and turn all the liquid on the dry ingredients. 
 Beat quickly with a spoon. Drop table-spoonfuls of the 
 dough in buttered pans, and bake in a very hot oven. 
 They should cook in eight or ten minutes. Serve hot. 
 
 If cream be plentiful, omit the butter and use a gill of 
 cream instead. In that case use only three gills of milk 
 instead of a pint. 
 
 * Quick Swedish Bread. 
 
 The best Swedish bread is made with raised dough, 
 but this quick bread is nice for luncheon. 
 
 Mix in a sieve, and then run through it, a quart of un- 
 sifted flour, three heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 799 
 
 three table-spoonfuls of sugar, and half a teaspoonful of 
 salt ; then rub two table-spoonfuls of butter into the 
 mixture, doing it thoroughly, and wet with a scant pint 
 of cold milk. Stir quickly into the shape of a ball. 
 Sprinkle the bread-board with flour, and roll this ball 
 upon it down to the thickness of one-third of an inch. 
 Sprinkle upon the dough three table-spoonfuls of sugar 
 and a light grating of nutmeg, and finally spread a cup- 
 ful of dried currants over all. Koll up the dough and 
 cut into slices about an inch thick. Place in a baking- 
 pan that has been well buttered, and bake for twenty 
 minutes in a very hot oven. 
 
 The currants may be omitted, if you prefer. 
 
 * English Brown Bread. 
 
 Allow for three loaves of this bread a quart of graham, 
 a quart of rye flour, a pint of warm water, two table- 
 spoonfuls of molasses, one of salt, one of butter, and half 
 a cake of compressed yeast dissolved in one-third of a 
 cupful of water. Make this bread in the same way 
 entfre-wheat bread is made, only bake it for an hour and 
 a quarter instead of for an hour. This is a coarse bread, 
 and very healthful. 
 
 * Brown Bread. 
 
 This is the kind of bread which, outside of New Eng- 
 land, is always called "Boston" brown bread. For 
 making it you will need a pint and a half of Indian meal, 
 the same quantity of rye meal, half a cupful of molasses, 
 two pints and a half of sweet milk, a teaspoonful of salt, 
 and a teaspoonful of soda. 
 
 Mix the two kinds of meal together. Dissolve the 
 soda in half a cupful of milk, and stir into the rest of 
 the milk ; then add the salt and molasses. Give these 
 ingredients a thorough mixing, and pour them upon the 
 mixed meal. Beat vigorously the batter thus formed, 
 
800 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 and turn it into two well-buttered brown-bread tins. 
 Steam for five hours. On Sunday morning heat for 
 breakfast by steaming for a little while. 
 
 Delicious toast may be made from this bread. 
 
 * Maiden Brown Bread. 
 
 For one large loaf or two small ones use two cupfuls 
 of Indian meal, one of graham, one of flour, one of 
 molasses, three of warm water, one table-spoonful of 
 soda, and one teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Mix the meals, flour, and salt together. Dissolve the 
 soda in the water, and add the molasses. Pour this 
 mixture on the dry ingredients. Beat well, and after 
 pouring into a buttered brown-bread tin, steam for four 
 hours. 
 
 To some people half a cupful of molasses will be more 
 satisfactory than a cupful. In case the smaller quantity 
 be used, let the measure of soda be very scant. 
 
 * Steamed Indian Bread. 
 
 Mix three cupfuls of Indian meal, one of flour, and a 
 teaspoonful of salt. Mix also two cupfuls of sweet milk 
 and one of sour with two-thirds of a cupful of molasses. 
 Dissolve a teaspoonful of soda in one table-spoonful of 
 cold water, and stir into the milk and molasses. Now 
 pour this mixture upon the dry one, and after beating 
 thoroughly, pour into a buttered two-quart basin. Steam 
 for three hours. 
 
 This is especially nice to serve hot with roast pork. 
 It is very good the second day if cut in slices and 
 steamed or toasted. 
 
 * Indian Bread. 
 
 With the following-named materials there can be made 
 two large loaves of Indian bread, which will be found 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 801 
 
 delicious when fresh from the oven, or toasted and but 
 tered, or in the form of brewis : one quart of Indian 
 meal, one of flour, one of sour milk, one of buttermilk, 
 two-thirds of a cupful of molasses, one-third of a cupful 
 of cold water, two table-spoonfuls of butter, one table- 
 spoonful of salt, and two even teaspoonfuls of soda. 
 
 Mix the flour, meal, and salt, and mix the molasses, 
 sour milk, and buttermilk. Dissolve the soda in the cold 
 water, and stir the liquid into the mixture of molasses 
 and milk. Pour the mixture upon the flour and meal, 
 and stir well. Add a table-spoonful of melted butter, and 
 beat thoroughly. Grease with the remaining butter two 
 tin pans, each of which easily holds two quarts. Pour 
 the mixture into these pans, and steam it for four hours 
 and a half ; then transfer the pans from the steamer 
 feo the oven, and bake for half an hour. 
 
 * Indian-Bread Brewis. 
 
 Put a pint of cream and a pint of milk into a double- 
 boiler, and heat to the boiling-point without actually 
 allowing the liquid to boil ; then add a table-spoonful of 
 butter and a teaspoonf ul of salt. Keep the boiler in a 
 warm place while toasting half a dozen slices of bread. 
 Dip the slices singly into the milk and cream, and after- 
 ward lay them in a hot deep dish. Pour over them any 
 milk and cream which may remain in the boiler, and 
 serve the brewis hot. 
 
 If cream be plentiful it will be well to use a quart 
 instead of a pint of milk, and a pint of cream. Or a 
 quart of milk may be used, and no cream, though in this 
 case the slices of toast should be buttered lightly before 
 being dipped. 
 
 * Ground Rice Bread. 
 
 To make a sheet of this bread one must take a cup- 
 ful of ground rice, a cupful of wheat flour, half a tea- 
 fit 
 
802 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 spoonful of soda, a teaspoonful of cream-of-tartar, half 
 a teaspoonful of salt, a table-spoonful of sugar, two 
 table-spoonfuls of melted butter, an egg, and two gills 
 and a half of milk. 
 
 Mix all the dry ingredients, and rub them through a 
 sieve. Beat the egg until light, and add the milk to it. 
 Pour this mixture upon the first one, and after adding 
 the butter, melted, pour the batter into a buttered shallow 
 pan, and bake for twenty-five minutes or half an hour in 
 a quick oven. 
 
 This bread is designed for either luncheon or supper, 
 and should be served hot. 
 
 * Baltimore Corn Bread. 
 
 A scant quart of white corn meal, a generous quart of 
 milk, half a cupful of butter, two teaspoonfuls of baking- 
 powder, one teaspoonful of salt, and three eggs are the 
 ingredients of which Baltimore corn bread is formed. 
 Instead of half a cupful of ,butter, a quarter of a cup- 
 ful and an equal quantity of lard may be used, if one 
 prefer. 
 
 Mix together the meal, baking-powder, and salt, and 
 rub through a sieve. Next melt the butter. Beat the 
 eggs till light, and add the milk to them ; then pour the 
 mixture upon the dry ingredients. Beat well, and add 
 the melted butter; then give the batter another good 
 beating, and pour into well-buttered shallow pans. Bake 
 for half an hour in a rather quick oven. 
 
 * Florida Corn Bread. 
 
 These are the materials needed: one cupful of cold 
 boiled hominy, one scant cupful of white corn meal, one 
 generous cupful of milk, an egg, one table-spoonful of 
 butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and one teaspoonful 
 of baking-powder. 
 
 Beat the hominy with a fork until it is thoroughly 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 803 
 
 broken ; then gradually beat in the milk. Mix the salt 
 and baking-powder with the meal, and add all to the 
 hominy "and milk ; then add the egg, well beaten, and 
 the butter, melted. Pour the mixture into two buttered 
 deep tin plates, and bake in a quick oven for twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 * White Corn Bread. 
 
 For one pan of bread enough for four people use 
 half a pint of white corn meal, half a pint of sifted 
 flour, a heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder, one table- 
 spoonful of sugar, a scant half-teaspoonful of salt, two 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, a generous half-pint of milk, 
 and two eggs. 
 
 Mix the dry ingredients, and rub them through a 
 sieve. Beat the eggs till very light, and add the milk 
 to them; then pour this mixture upon the dry one. 
 Add the butter, melted, and stir well. Pour the batter 
 into a buttered shallow pan, and bake in a rather quick 
 oven for half an hour. 
 
 This bread is nice if baked in tin plates. The batter 
 will fill three plates or a dozen muffin-tins. 
 
 Corn Bread. 
 
 Here is a receipt for making delicious corn bread, a 
 rather expensive rule, perhaps, but a good one to follow 
 once in a while : Mix thoroughly in a sieve, and then 
 rub through it, a pint of white meal, a pint of flour, two 
 heaping table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, one teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, and two of baking-powder. Beat five eggs 
 till very light, and add to them a scant pint and a half 
 of milk. Stir this liquid mixture into the dry one, and 
 add a quarter of a cupful of melted butter. Pour the 
 batter into buttered muffin-pans or a shallow cake-pan, 
 having it about an inch deep. Bake in a moderate oven 
 for half an hour. 
 
804 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Johnny-cake. 
 
 To make two pans of this old-fashioned corn cake, 
 take two cupfuls of sour milk, half a cupful of sour 
 cream, one cupful of sifted flour, two of Indian meal, a 
 generous teaspoonful of soda, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
 an egg, two table-spoonfuls of molasses or if molasses 
 be not liked two of sugar. 
 
 Put the milk, cream, molasses, and salt into a large 
 bowl. Beat the egg until light. Dissolve the soda in 
 one table-spoonful of cold water, and stir it into the 
 mixture in the bowl ; then add the flour and meal, and 
 after mixing these ingredients well, add the eggs. Pour 
 the batter into two buttered pans, and bake in a quick 
 oven for thirty minutes. 
 
 If it be inconvenient to use sour cream, use sour milk 
 instead, and add three table-spoonfuls of melted butter 
 at the last moment. 
 
 * Hominy Bread. 
 
 Put a pint of corn meal into a bowl, and pour upon it 
 a scant pint of boiling water. Beat well, and then add 
 a pint of cold milk, a large cupful of cooked hominy, a 
 table-spoonful and a half of butter or lard, a teaspoonful 
 of salt, and two eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately. 
 Bake in a deep round pan for thirty-five minutes, and 
 serve from the same pan. It should be so soft as to 
 require a spoon for serving. 
 
 Cold boiled rice may be used instead of hominy, for a 
 change. 
 
 *Thin Corn Cake. 
 
 Put a heaping pint of Indian meal into a bowl, together 
 with a teaspoonful of salt, a table-spoonful of sugar, and 
 a table-spoonful of butter. Pour upon this mixture 
 nearly a pint and a half of boiling water, and after a 
 good beating, add a well-beaten egg. Spread about half 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 805 
 
 an inch thick on buttered tin sheets, and bake in a quick 
 oven until brown, say for thirty -five minutes. This is 
 not a handsome corn cake, yet it is delicious. 
 
 * Spider Corn Cake. 
 
 For this cake there is required a frying-pan with a 
 handle short enough to go into the oven. 
 
 Mix together a cupful and two-thirds of corn meal, 
 one-third of a cupful of flour, one-quarter of a cupful of 
 sugar, and a teaspoonf ul of salt. Beat two eggs till light, 
 and add to them a cupful of sour milk and one of sweet 
 milk in which a small teaspoonful of soda has been dis- 
 solved. Pour this mixture upon the dry ingredients, 
 and mix thoroughly. 
 
 Have the frying-pan very hot, and after greasing it 
 with two table-spoonfuls of butter, pour the batter into 
 it. Now pour into the mixture another cupful of sweet 
 milk, but do not stir the cake. Place the frying-pan in 
 a hot oven, and bake for half an hour. When the cake 
 is cooked, slip it gently from a pan on to a platter or 
 large plate. 
 
 This is one of the most delicious forms of corn bread. 
 
 * Rice Corn Cake. 
 
 Put a quart of milk and a pint of boiled rice into a 
 double-boiler. Into a large bowl put a cupful and three- 
 quarters of corn meal, one-third of a cupful of flour, one 
 teaspoonful of salt, and one table-spoonful of sugar. 
 When the milk and rice are found to be boiling, pour 
 gradually over the dry ingredients, and beat the mixture 
 very thoroughly. Beat six eggs till light, whites and 
 yolks separately, and stir into the mixture. Have 
 ready some well-buttered pans, and pour the mixture 
 into them. It should be an inch deep. Bake in a hot 
 oven for half an hour. 
 
806 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 This is a moist corn cake, but it is sweet and delicious. 
 With the quantities of ingredients mentioned, two large 
 pans may be filled ; therefore half the quantities will be 
 sufficient in a small family. 
 
 * Corn Dodgers. 
 
 Put into a bowl one pint of Indian meal, one table- 
 spoonful of sugar, and one teaspoonful of salt. Pour 
 on this a pint of boiling water. Beat the mixture vig- 
 orously for eight or ten minutes, and then form it into 
 small flat cakes about half an inch thick. Fry in fat for 
 ten minutes if there be enough fat to immerse them, but 
 for fifteen minutes if a frying-pan and only a little fat 
 be used. 
 
 * Corn Muffins. 
 
 For a dozen and a half muffins use three gills of milk, 
 one pint of flour, half a pint of corn meal, three table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, two of butter, three teaspoonfuls of 
 baking-powder, and half a teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Mix the dry ingredients. Beat the yolks and whites of 
 the eggs separately. Add the milk to the dry mixture, 
 then the eggs, and finally the butter, melted. Fill the 
 muffin-pans two-thirds of the way to the brim, and bake 
 for half an hour in a moderately quick oven. 
 
 * Mix together thoroughly in a sieve, and rub through 
 it, one pint of corn meal (white or yellow), one pint of 
 flour, one-third of a cupful of sugar, three teaspoonfuls of 
 baking-powder, and one teaspoonful of salt. After beat- 
 ing two eggs until they are very light, and adding a pint 
 and a gill of milk to them, pour this mixture upon the 
 dry one, and add two table-spoonfuls of melted butter. 
 Beat both together quickly and thoroughly, and pour 
 the preparation into buttered muffin-pans. Bake in a 
 rather quick oven for thirty minutes. 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 807 
 
 With the quantities prescribed, two dozen muffins can 
 be ma'de. The pans may be buttered and the dry in- 
 gredients mixed and rubbed through a sieve the night or 
 day before, so the morning work need occupy but a few 
 moments. 
 
 Trenton Corn Muffins. 
 
 This is rather an expensive receipt to follow, but 
 muffins made by it are delicious. The materials are : a 
 pint of milk, a cupful and two-thirds of sifted flour, a 
 cupful of corn meal, either white or yellow, a scant half- 
 cupful of sugar, one-third of a cupful of butter, three 
 eggs, one teaspoonful and a quarter of soda, two tea- 
 spoonfuls and a half of cream-of-tartar, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt. 
 
 Sift the flour, meal, salt, and cream-of-tartar twice to- 
 gether. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, and after 
 beating the eggs well, add them to this cream. Dissolve 
 the soda in the milk, and add to the mixture ; then add 
 the remaining ingredients. Beat quickly and vigorously, 
 and after pouring into well-buttered muffin-pans, bake 
 for half an hour in a quick oven. 
 
 A dozen large muffins can be made with the quantities 
 of ingredients mentioned. 
 
 * Rice Muffins. 
 
 Mix together in a sieve, and then rub through it, one 
 pint of flour, one table-spoonful of sugar, two teaspoon- 
 fuls of baking-powder, and a level teaspoonful of salt. 
 With the hands rub a generous table-spoonful of butter 
 into the mixture. Beat two eggs till light, and add half 
 a pint of milk to them ; then stir this mixture into the 
 one first made, and beat very light. When the batter is 
 smooth, add a cupful of cold cooked rice, and beat thor- 
 oughly. Bake in buttered muffin-pans for thirty-five 
 minutes in a rather quick oven. 
 
808 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Hominy Muffins. 
 
 For twelve muffins use one cupful of warm boiled 
 hominy, one cupful of milk, one cupful and a half of 
 flour, one generous teaspoonful of baking-powder, half a 
 teaspoonful of salt, one table-spoonful of butter, one tea- 
 spoonful of sugar, and two eggs. 
 
 Mix all the dry ingredients, and rub them through a 
 sieve. Beat the butter into the hominy, and gradually 
 beat in the milk. Beat the eggs till very light. Add 
 the hominy and milk to the dry ingredients, and beat 
 well ; then add the well-beaten eggs. Pour the batter 
 into buttered muffin-pans, and bake in a rather hot oven 
 for half an hour. 
 
 Cold hominy may be used, but in that case great care 
 should be taken to break it up with a fork and then beat 
 in a very little milk at a time. In this case the butter 
 must be melted before it is added to the mixture. 
 
 Cream Muffins. 
 
 Sift two cupful s of flour into a large bowl. Beat four 
 eggs very light, and add to them one cupful and a half 
 of milk and one teaspoonful of salt. Pour this mixture 
 upon the flour, and beat very thoroughly ; then add a 
 cupful of cream, and beat again. Have gem-pans, of iron, 
 heated and buttered, and fill them two-thirds of the waj 
 to the top with the mixture. Bake for forty minutes in 
 a rather quick oven. 
 
 * Elmira Muffins. 
 
 Mix a pint of flour, two teaspoonfuls and a half of 
 baking-powder, a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, and a 
 quarter of a cupful of sugar, and rub through a sieve. 
 Dissolve a quarter of a cupful of butter in one large 
 cupful of milk. Beat two eggs very light, whites and 
 yolks separately. Add the milk and butter to them, and 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 809 
 
 stir into the dry mixture. Mix quickly and vigorously, 
 and pour into hot buttered gem-pans. Bake for twenty 
 minutes in a quick oven. 
 These are nice for luncheon or tea. 
 
 * Entire-Wheat Muffins. 
 
 For a dozen muffins there will be required a cupful 
 and . a half of entire-wheat flour, a cupful of milk, one- 
 third of a cupful of water, an egg, a teaspoonful of 
 cream-of-tartar, half a teaspoonful of soda, half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
 
 Mix the dry ingredients, and sift them into a bowl. 
 Beat the egg until it is light, and add the milk and 
 water to it. Pour this mixture upon the dry ingredients, 
 and beat quickly and vigorously. Pour the batter into 
 buttered muffin-pans, and bake for twenty-five minutes 
 in a rather quick oven. The batter will be thin and 
 give a moist muffin, but that is as it should be. 
 
 * Granulated-Wheat Muffins. 
 
 Mix together in a sieve, and rub through it, three cup- 
 fuls of fine-granulated wheat meal, such as is made by 
 the Health Food Company, four table-spoonfuls of sugar, 
 three teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, and one teaspoonful 
 of salt. Turn the bran from the sieve into a bowl. 
 Beat two eggs very light, and add to them two cupfuls 
 of milk and two-thirds of a cupful of water ; then pour 
 gradually upon the dry mixture. Beat well, and pour 
 into two dozen muffin-cups. Bake in a rather quick oven 
 for twenty-five minutes. 
 
 * Raised Graham Muffins. 
 
 Mix in a bowl a pint of wheat flour and a pint of 
 graham, and add half a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth 
 of a cupful of molasses, a generous pint of blood-warm 
 
810 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 water, and one-fourth of a cupful of liquid yeast, or one- 
 fourth of a cake of compressed yeast dissolved in three 
 table-spoonfuls of cold water. Beat all these ingredients 
 thoroughly, and let the mixture rise over night. In the 
 morning beat the risen dough thoroughly, and put it into 
 buttered French-roll pans. Let it rise until double its 
 first size, and then bake for half an hour. 
 
 * Kentucky Graham Muffins. 
 
 Use a pint of graham meal, a pint of flour, a table- 
 spoonful of lard or butter, one teaspoonful of soda, two 
 eggs, one teaspoonful of salt, and a generous pint of sour 
 milk. Mix the flour and meal, and add the salt. After 
 dissolving the soda in two table-spoonfuls of cold milk, 
 stir it into the sour milk, and then pour the latter upon 
 the mixture of flour and meal. Melt the butter and 
 add it, and finally add the eggs, beaten well. Bake in 
 buttered muffin-pans in a quick oven for twenty -five 
 minutes. 
 
 * Graham Puffs. 
 
 There must be taken for these puffs a pint of milk, 
 three eggs, half a pint of sifted graham, half a pint of 
 sifted flour, one table-spoonful of sugar, one teaspoonful 
 of salt, and one table-spoonful of melted butter. 
 
 Beat the yolks and whites of the eggs together until 
 as light as possible. Add the milk, sugar, and salt, and 
 pour half of the mixture upon the sifted graham and 
 flour. Beat until smooth and light; then add the 
 remainder of the first mixture. Add the melted butter, 
 beating the batter vigorously. Butter a dozen little 
 stone cups, and set them in an old pan. Fill the cups 
 with the batter, and bake for an hour in a rather quick 
 oven. At the end of that time they should be four 
 times their original size. They will not be, however, 
 unless baked in stone or earthen ware. 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 
 
 811 
 
 * Fried Graham Muffins. 
 
 For five or six persons use one cupful of inilk, one 
 cupful and a half of sifted graham, one cupful and a 
 half of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, three teaspoonfuls 
 (scant measure) of baking-powder, three table-spoonfuls 
 of sugar, and two eggs. 
 
 Mix the dry ingredients, and rub through a sieve. 
 Beat the eggs very light, and add the milk to them. 
 Add this liquid to the dry ingredients, and beat vigor- 
 
 Dropping Muffin Batter into Fat. 
 
 ously for a minute. Have a deep kettle of fat heated to 
 about 350, about as you would' have it for doughnuts. 
 Dip a table-spoon into a cupful of milk. With this spoon 
 take up a spoonful of the batter, and drop it into the boiling 
 fat. Dip the spoon into the milk each time, and shape 
 the batter as smooth as possible. In this way put half 
 the batter in the fat, and cook for ten minutes, being 
 
812 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 careful not to burn the muffins. Take them up, and 
 drain them on brown paper. Cook the remaining half 
 of the batter in the same way. 
 
 * Fried Oatmeal Muffins. 
 
 For eighteen muffins, use one cupful of cold oatmeal 
 mush, one cupful and a half of graham meal, a scant half- 
 cupful of water or milk, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, 
 one heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder, half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and two well-beaten eggs. 
 
 Beat the salt and sugar into the oatmeal; then add 
 the eggs, well beaten ; next, the water ; and finally the 
 graham, mixed with the baking-powder. Drop this mix- 
 ture, by dessert-spoonfuls, into boiling fat, and cook for ten 
 minutes. Drain on brown paper, and serve hot. 
 
 * Baked Oatmeal Muffins. 
 
 Prepare the mixture in the same way as for fried 
 muffins, but increase the quantity of the liquid used by 
 half a gill, and also add one table-spoonful of melted 
 butter. Pour the mixture into buttered muffin-pans, and 
 bake for half an hour in a rather hot oven. 
 
 * Scotch Oat Cakes. 
 
 These are the thin hard cakes which one finds in 
 Scotland and occasionally in this country. They are 
 simple, and yet, lacking a good receipt, one might ex- 
 periment frequently for years (as the writer had done) 
 without succeeding in making them. The meal used 
 should be that which is ground rather fine. Canadian 
 oatmeal is especially good, and it is also good for mush 
 if one does not care to have the grains distinct. In 
 making these oat cakes for the first time it will be well 
 not to use much material. Here is a rule for making 
 two cakes : 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 813 
 
 Use one cupful of oatmeal, one of boiling water, one 
 table-spoonful of butter, and one teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Put the meal and salt in a bowl. Put the butter in a 
 cup, and let it stand on the back part of the range 
 where it will melt. Now fill the cup with boiling water, 
 and pour the liquid on the meal and salt. Beat well 
 with a spoon ; then work the dough with the hands 
 for ten or fifteen minutes. This will make it firm and 
 rather tough. As the dough is hot it is rather hard to 
 handle, but unless it be worked well with the hands 
 while hot it will not make good cakes. 
 
 Now divide the dough into two pieces, and make 
 two thin cakes of it. This may be done in either of 
 two ways. The first and better way is to press out 
 the dough with the hands ; the other is to use the 
 rolling-pin. 
 
 Sprinkle the moulding-board with dry meal, and put 
 the ball of dough on it. Now pat the dough until it 
 becomes very thin ; pressing down with the palm of the 
 right hand, and using the left hand for pressing in the 
 edges, to keep the cake round and smooth. The dough 
 must be lifted frequently. When it is almost as thin as 
 the blade of a knife, lift it carefully, and place on the 
 outside of a broiler. Put something on the back part of 
 the stove to raise the broiler about two or three inches 
 from the iron. A meat-rack is a good thing; or two 
 bricks will do. Cook the cake slowly for about an hour, 
 turning it when it has become slightly browned on one 
 side. It must never be allowed to get very brown. 
 
 Oat cakes may be baked on a griddle. It will take 
 about as long to cook them as if a broiler were used. 
 They will keep a long time, and are especially nice with 
 cheese for luncheon. 
 
 * Muffins Cooked on the Griddle. 
 
 For six persons use one quart of flour, two cupf uls and 
 one-half of warm milk, three table-spoonfuls of melted 
 
814 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 butter, one-fourth of a cake of compressed yeast, one tea- 
 spoonful of salt, one of sugar, and two eggs. 
 
 Put the flour, sugar, and salt into a bowl. Dissolve 
 the yeast in half a cupful of the milk ; then add it, with 
 the rest of the milk, to the flour, and beat the mixture 
 well. Now beat the eggs till light, and add them and 
 the butter to the batter just made. Beat vigorously for 
 ten minutes. Cover the bowl, and set it in a warm 
 place. 
 
 In the morning butter some muffin-rings, and grease 
 the griddle with either pork or butter. Spread the rings 
 on the griddle, which must be nearly as hot as for ordi- 
 nary griddle-cakes. Put a large spoonful of the risen 
 batter into each ring, and cook until brown on one side ; 
 then turn the muffins, and cook them on the other side. 
 It will take from ten to twelve minutes to brown them 
 completely. 
 
 With the materials mentioned, two dozen muffins can 
 be made. If wanted for supper, put them to rise at 
 about eight o'clock in the morning; or if wanted for 
 luncheon, make them at the same hour, but use half a 
 cake of yeast instead of one-quarter of a cake. 
 
 * Crumpets. 
 
 To make two dozen crumpets there will be required 
 five cupfuls of sifted flour, one-quarter of a cake of com- 
 pressed yeast, two cupfuls and a fourth of warm water, 
 one teaspoonful of salt, one table-spoonful of sugar, and 
 three generous table-spoonfuls of butter. 
 
 Put the flour, sugar, and salt into a deep bowl. Dis- 
 solve the yeast in a small part of the warm water, and 
 then add the remainder of the water. Pour the liquid 
 upon the flour, and beat until a smooth, light batter is 
 formed. Cover it closely, and let it stand in a warm 
 place over night. In the morning melt the three table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, and beat into the risen batter. Fill 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 815 
 
 buttered muffin-pans with the mixture, and after keeping 
 in a warm place for half an hour, bake for an equal 
 period in a moderate oven. Or, instead of baking in the 
 oven, bake in rings on the griddle, like muffins cooked 
 on the griddle. 
 
 * Luncheon Muffins. 
 
 For a dozen muffins use one pint of flour, half a pint 
 of cream or milk, an egg, a table-spoonful of butter, one 
 of sugar, two level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, and 
 half a teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Mix the flour and baking-powder. Beat the egg and 
 sugar together. Melt the butter, and after adding it to 
 the beaten egg and sugar, beat the mixture for a minute. 
 Now add the salt and milk, and finally the flour and 
 baking-powder. Mix quickly, and after putting into 
 buttered muffin-pans, bake in a rather hot oven for 
 twenty-five minutes. 
 
 * Wheat Gems. 
 
 These are easily and quickly made. The materials 
 are : a quart of milk, a quart of sifted flour, half a dozen 
 eggs, one table-spoonful of sugar, one table-spoonful of 
 butter, and one teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Put two sets of iron gem-pans where they will get very 
 hot. Beat the eggs until light (it is well to use a Dover 
 egg-beater) ; then add the sugar, salt, and milk. Grad- 
 ually pour this mixture upon the sifted flour, beating 
 thoroughly ; and add the table-spoonful of butter, melted. 
 Dip a piece of clean cloth into some soft butter, and rub 
 it over the hot gem-pans ; then pour the batter into the 
 pans, and bake for twenty minutes. The cakes will be 
 light and delicate, and about double their original size. 
 The same mixture, baked in earthen cups for an hour, 
 would increase to four times its first size, and the cakes 
 would then be called pop-overs, 
 
816 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Wheat Drop Cakes. 
 
 The materials needed are : one pint of flour, two tea- 
 spooufuls of baking-powder, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
 one generous table-spoonful of sugar, one table-spoonful 
 of melted butter, half a pint of milk, and one egg. 
 
 Mix the dry ingredients together, and rub through a 
 sieve. Now add the milk, and also the egg, well beaten. 
 Finally add the melted butter. Drop this batter into 
 boiling fat by dessert-spoonfuls, and cook for six minutes. 
 Serve hot for breakfast, luncheon, or tea. 
 
 With the quantity of materials given above, two small 
 plates of cakes can be made. 
 
 * Poverty Cakes. 
 
 Use one pint and a half of rye meal, half a pint of 
 corn meal, a scant half-cupful of molasses, one teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, one fourth of a teaspoonful of soda, one egg, 
 and one pint of cold water. 
 
 Mix the meals and salt. Dissolve the soda in one 
 table-spoonful of the water ; then add it to the rest of 
 the water and the molasses, and mix thoroughly. Pour 
 this mixture upon the first one, and mix well. Now 
 add the egg, well beaten. Drop this batter, by dessert- 
 spoonfuls, into boiling fat, and cook for ten minutes. 
 Drain on brown paper, and serve hot. 
 
 * Lapland Cakes. 
 
 After beating the whites of five eggs to a stiff froth, 
 and the yolks as light as possible, mix the two, and add 
 a pint of not very rich cream and half a teaspoonful of 
 salt. Pour the mixture upon a generous pint of sifted 
 flour ; and after beating vigorously, pour it into buttered 
 cups of brown earthenware. Bake for three-quarters of 
 an hour in a moderately quick oven. These cakes may 
 be baked in half an hour in iron gem-pans, but will not 
 be so light as if they came from cups. 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 817 
 
 * Rye Pop-Overs. 
 
 Put a cupful and a half of rye meal and a cupful of 
 wheat flour into a bowl, with one table-spoonful of sugar 
 and one teaspoonful of salt. Beat three eggs together 
 until very light, and add a pint of milk to them ; then 
 pour two-thirds of this mixture over that in the bowl, 
 and after beating well, add the remainder of the milk 
 and egg mixture. Butter a dozen little stone cups, and 
 put them into an old pan. Pour the batter into them, 
 and bake for an hour, having the oven very hot the first 
 half-hour, and then reducing the heat. 
 
 * Fried Raised Cakes. 
 
 These are made of common bread dough, and afford a 
 pleasant change of fare once in a while. If provision 
 is to be made for five or six persons, take about a quart 
 of the risen dough. Cut it into pieces about half the 
 size of an egg, and roll into cylindrical pieces about four 
 inches long. Place on a slightly floured board, being 
 careful that they do not touch each other ; and after 
 covering them with a towel, let them rise in a warm 
 place for forty minutes. 
 
 Have a deep kettle of fat heated to about 350, and 
 drop into it as many cakes as can be cooked without any 
 crowding. Allowance must be made for an increase of 
 about one-third in the size of the cakes after they are 
 put in the fat. Cook for six minutes. 
 
 These cakes may be served as hot bread, to go with 
 meats, or with syrup, like griddle-cakes. When syrup 
 is used, the cakes may be improved by a sprinkling of 
 sugar, and a slight flavoring of cinnamon or nutmeg. 
 
818 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 BEVERAGES. 
 
 *A CUP OF TEA. 
 
 FEW good things for the table are more easily made 
 than a bright cup of tea, yet few are rarer. The expla- 
 nation is found in the common feeling that anybody can 
 make a pot of tea, which leads to carelessness in doing 
 the slight work required. Proper treatment of a poor 
 quality of tea will give a better result than improper use 
 of a fine brand. 
 
 It is astonishing that so many people are satisfied with 
 that coarse green tea called " Japan." This kind would 
 be bad enough, even if it were infused, or steeped, in the 
 most approved manner; and generally the steeping is 
 far from perfect, making the drinker if accustomed to 
 black or Oolong tea of good quality wonder how any- 
 body can be willing to adopt it permanently. Still, it is 
 not always the Japan tea which produces a poor drink. 
 At some tables, where everything else may be excellent, 
 the tea is poor, though the dry article may have cost a 
 dollar or more a pound. Such tea will not injure the 
 consumers so much as improperly drawn Japan tea will, 
 yet it certainly cannot cheer them. 
 
 In making tea always use an earthen, china, or silver 
 teapot, never tin or granite ware. Pour boiling water 
 into the pot, and let it stand long enough to heat the pot 
 thoroughly ; then pour out every drop of the water, and 
 put in the dry tea. Cover the pot, and let it stand for 
 
BEVERAGES. 819 
 
 five minutes on a part of the stove where it will keep 
 hot. At the end of the five minutes pour in some boiling 
 water, and send the tea to the dining-room. There will 
 be time for a sufficient steeping while the pot is being 
 carried from the stove to the table. 
 
 This method of preparing tea insures a fresh, bright, 
 invigorating drink. Remember that the tea-pot must be 
 free of moisture and old leaves when the fresh tea is put 
 in ; that the water used must be boiling so rapidly in the 
 kettle that steam comes from the spout in a dense vol- 
 ume ; and that fresh water should be put into the kettle 
 whenever tea is to be made. These directions apply to 
 all kinds of tea, save that English breakfast tea should 
 be allowed to stand on the stove for five or eight min- 
 utes after the water is put with it, and almost, yet not 
 quite, be allowed to boil. 
 
 The quantity of dry tea to be used for each person 
 depends, of course, upon individual tastes ; nevertheless, 
 the old rule, " a teaspoonful for each person and one for 
 the teapot," is a good one, and by following it, and allow- 
 ing a generous half-pint of water to each spoonful of tea, 
 one gets a moderately strong cup. 
 
 COFFEE. 
 
 To the lover of coffee nothing can surpass a perfect 
 cup of this beverage. Tastes differ as to the proper 
 degree of strength of this drink, but there is little differ- 
 ence in opinion as to the flavor of the coffee, which should 
 be smooth and "bright." A great deal depends upon 
 the berry and the way it is roasted. Comparatively few 
 people roast their own coffee in these days, the work 
 being done so well by large establishments. Mocha and 
 Java mixed one-third Mocha and two-thirds Java 
 are considered to be the best combination. Still, many 
 other kinds, when properly roasted and made, give very 
 satisfactory results, 
 
820 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 *To Roast Coffee. 
 
 Wash the berries in cold water, and dry them by drain- 
 ing on a sieve for several hours. When dry, put them 
 in a large dripping-pan, being careful not to have them 
 more than half an inch deep. Place in a very moderate 
 oven, and close the door. Stir every five minutes until 
 the berries are a rich dark brown, which should be in 
 about an hour. To every quart of the coffee add a gener- 
 ous table-spoonful of butter. Stir well, and return to the 
 oven for five minutes. Beat the whites of two eggs till 
 light but not dry. Take the coffee from the oven and 
 stir in these beaten whites. Mix very thoroughly. Put 
 the coffee in a tin box or in self-sealing jars. 
 
 A word of caution : In roasting the coffee great care 
 must be taken that no part of it shall get scorched. Stir 
 every time from the sides, bottom, and corners. 
 
 * Boiled Coffee. 
 
 There are many methods of making coffee, but the 
 simplest is the best. Coffee made in the French biggin 
 is smooth, clear, and of good flavor. That which is boiled 
 is cleared with various substances. It has a different 
 flavor from the filtered coffee. Many people use the 
 boiled coffee for breakfast and the filtered coffee for 
 dinner. 
 
 Put one cupful of roasted coffee into a small frying- 
 pan, and stir it over the fire until hot, being careful not 
 to burn it. Grind the coffee rather coarse, and put it in 
 a common coffee-pot. Beat one egg well, and add three 
 table-spoonfuls of cold water to it. Stir this mixture 
 into the coffee. Pour one quart of boiling water on the 
 coffee, and place the pot on the fire. Stir the coffee until 
 it boils, being careful not to let it boil over ; then place 
 on the back of the stove where it will just bubble for 
 ten minutes, Pour a little of the coffee into a cup, and 
 
BEVERAGES. 821 
 
 return it to the pot. Do this several times. This is to 
 free the nozzle of particles of coffee and egg which may 
 have lodged there. Place the coffee-pot where it will 
 keep warm, but not get so hot that the contents will 
 bubble. After it has stood for five minutes strain it into 
 a hot coffee-pot, and send to the table at once. 
 
 This gives a rather strong coffee, and yet it is not 
 strong enough for some people. More or less water may 
 be used, as the drink may be liked strong or weak. 
 
 * Here is another way to boil coffee : Soak a piece 
 of isinglass, about two inches square, in half a gill of 
 cold water. Put the coffee in the pot, and add the boil- 
 ing water. Place it on the fire, and when it boils, stir 
 in the soaked isinglass. Set back where it will simmer 
 for ten minutes, and at the end of that time, strain and 
 serve. 
 
 * Still another way is to put the coffee in a thin flannel 
 bag. Place this in the coffee-pot, and add the boiling water. 
 Place the pot in a saucepan of boiling water, and cook for 
 ten or fifteen minutes, having the water in the saucepan 
 boil all the time. 
 
 * Filtered Coffee. 
 
 Heat the coffee, and grind it very fine. Put it in 
 the filter, and place the biggin in a saucepan of boiling 
 water, and on the back of the stove. If one cupful of 
 coffee be used, add a gill of boiling water. Cover, and 
 let it stand for five minutes. When that time has passed 
 add another gill of boiling water. Continue adding boil- 
 ing water every two or three minutes until the amount 
 required is used. If the coffee be desired very strong, a 
 pint and a half of water six gills will be the right 
 quantity, but for breakfast coffee this would be too strong 
 for most people. Three pints of boiling water would be 
 
822 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 right for the average taste. This coft'ee must never boil ; 
 boiling would change its entire character. 
 
 Coffee should be served as soon as possible after it is 
 made. The fine, bright flavor is lost if it stands long. 
 
 A cup of coffee is not perfect without cream. All 
 cannot have cream, and the next best thing is hot milk. 
 The milk should be heated to the boiling-point, but 
 should not boil. Adding water to a cup of coffee to 
 reduce the strength spoils it. Always dilute with hot 
 milk. 
 
 Creole Coffee. 
 
 Put three table-spoonfuls of sugar in a small saucepan, 
 and place on the back of the stove where it will brown 
 slowly. Do not stir it. When it has burned almost 
 black, add a generous gill of water. Let it simmer until 
 the sugar is dissolved. 
 
 Put two cupfuls of fine-ground coffee into a biggin, 
 and pour the caramel over it. Place the biggin on the 
 back of the stove, and gradually add three pints of boil- 
 ing water. 
 
 This is a nice after-dinner coffee, served with sugar 
 
 and cream. 
 
 x 
 
 CHOCOLATE. 
 
 When properly made this is a grateful and nutritious 
 drink; but what can be more unappetizing than a cup 
 covered with oil ? If the chocolate be kept hot for some 
 time after it is made, the oily particles will separate 
 from the other substances, making the drink unsightly 
 and indigestible. Chocolate, however made, should be 
 finished just at the time of serving. 
 
 As in the case of tea and coffee, tastes differ as to the 
 strength of chocolate. In the opinion of many people 
 one ounce of plain chocolate to one quart of milk is 
 about the right proportion, while others would like four 
 
BEVERAGES. 823 
 
 ounces of chocolate to a quart of milk. Again, some 
 persons want the chocolate thick, and if enough plain 
 chocolate be used to make it thick the drink will be 
 bitter. Maillard's vanilla chocolate will make the drink 
 thick and of good flavor. 
 
 Mulling chocolate will make it thick. The small dasher 
 that comes in chocolate pots is called a muller. This is 
 worked up and down the same as one churns butter. 
 The process froths and thickens the chocolate. If one 
 have no muller, it will be well to make the chocolate in 
 the double-boiler and beat it up with a whisk. 
 
 Many folks think a cup of chocolate is improved by 
 the addition of a table-spoonful of whipped cream. The 
 cream can be whipped and drained and seasoned with a 
 little sugar and vanilla ; or it may be used plain. 
 
 Rich Chocolate. 
 
 Put one quart of milk in the double-boiler, and on the 
 fire. Put into a small frying-pan four ounces of Mail- 
 lard's vanilla chocolate, scraped fine, two table-spoonfuls 
 of sugar, and four table-spoonfuls of water. Stir this 
 preparation over a hot fire until it becomes smooth and 
 glossy, which will be in about one minute ; then stir the 
 dissolved chocolate into the boiling milk. Whisk well, 
 and then pour into a hot chocolate jug. Send to the 
 table with a bowl of whipped cream. 
 
 * Plain Chocolate. 
 
 Put one quart of milk into the double-boiler, and on the 
 fire. Scrape two ounces of Walter Baker & Co.'s or any 
 plain chocolate. Put it in a small frying-pan with three 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar and two of water. Place on a 
 hot part of the fire, and stir constantly until smooth and 
 glossy. Stir this into the boiling milk. Beat with the 
 whisk for three minutes, and serve in a hot chocolate jug 
 or pitcher. 
 
824 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 If the chocolate be desired thick, mix a table-spoonful 
 of arrowroot or corn-starch with half a gill of cold milk, 
 and stir this mixture into the boiling milk. Cook for 
 ten minutes. Now dissolve the chocolate, and after add- 
 ing it to the thickened milk, whisk well. 
 
 Half a teaspoonful of vanilla, if it be liked, may be 
 added to plain chocolate. 
 
 OTHER DRINKS. 
 
 * Broma. 
 
 Put a heaping table-spoonful of broma into a saucepan. 
 Gradually add one gill of boiling water, stirring all the 
 time. Now add one pint of hot milk and one table- 
 spoonful of sugar. Place the saucepan on the fire, and 
 stir until the mixture boils. Serve at once. 
 
 If this drink be liked strong, two table-spoonfuls of 
 broma may be used. 
 
 * Breakfast Cocoa. 
 Prepare breakfast cocoa exactly the same as broma. 
 
 * Cracked Cocoa and Cocoa Shells. 
 
 Put a cupful of cocoa shells into a large cocoa-pot, 
 and add a table-spoonful of cracked cocoa and two quarts 
 of boiling water. Boil gently for four hours. Strain, 
 and serve with hot milk and sugar. 
 
 * Cocoatina. 
 
 Wilbur's cocoatina makes a most delicious drink. It 
 is a good deal like chocolate, but much more delicate, 
 and comparatively free of oil. Put two table-spoonfuls 
 of the cocoatina in a bowl with a table-spoonful of sugar. 
 Add four table-spoonfuls of boiling water. Hub this 
 
BEVERAGES. 825 
 
 to a smooth paste, and then stir it into a pint and a half 
 of boiling milk ; whisk well, and pour into a hot jug. 
 Serve at once. 
 
 If the drink be liked stronger, more of the powder 
 may be used. 
 
 Soda Cream. 
 
 When warm weather comes, perhaps the young folks 
 will enjoy this drink. To make the syrup, use the 
 following-named ingredients : one quart of boiling water, 
 one quart of granulated sugar, two ounces of tartaric 
 acid, the white of one egg, one table-spoonful of warm 
 water, four of cold water, and some kind of flavor. 
 
 Boil the sugar and boiling water together for ten 
 minutes; then set away to cool. When cold, dissolve 
 the tartaric acid in the four table-spoonfuls of cold water, 
 and add to the syrup. Beat the white of the egg with 
 the warm water, being careful to break it thoroughly, yet 
 not to make it light. Add this liquid to the syrup. 
 Stir well, and pour through a fine strainer. Divide this 
 mixture in halves, and add to one part a teaspoonful and 
 a half of vanilla extract, and to the other part a tea- 
 spoonful and a half of lemon extract. Other flavors 
 may be substituted for those named. Bottle the syrup, 
 and put in a cool place. The bottles should be labelled. 
 
 Now prepare the soda. It is well to get some pow- 
 dered and sifted soda at a drugstore. If the common 
 soda be used, powder and sift it. Fold up in each of a 
 number of small papers about as much soda as would be 
 contained in a lump the size of a large pea. About 
 thirty powders will be required for the quantity of 
 syrup made. Keep them in a box beside the bottles, 
 where they will be ready for use at any time. 
 
 To prepare the soda for drinking, half fill a glass with 
 ice-water, then put in two table-spoonfuls of syrup, and 
 finally add one of the powders, stirring quickly until 
 the drink foams. 
 
826 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 A Refreshing Drink. 
 
 When fresh fruits are plentiful, a delicious drink may 
 be made by mixing two cupfuls of sugar, one of lemon 
 juice, a pint of the juice of strawberries or raspberries, a 
 small pineapple, grated, two quarts of water, and ice 
 enough to make very cold. Three quarts of the bever- 
 age can be made with these articles. It will be found 
 nice for a garden or lawn party. 
 
PRESERVING. 827 
 
 PRESERVING. 
 
 . 
 
 THE work of preserving requires time and pains ; and 
 unless one be willing to meet both of these requirements 
 with a determination not to feel burdened, it will be 
 better to buy such supplies as may be needed from time 
 to time. Still, it is a comfort to a woman to have a good 
 stock of her own making when the long season comes in 
 which fresh fruit cannot be obtained; for if she have 
 articles which she herself has produced, or which she 
 has had made by some one of the many women who 
 make a business of preserving for others, there will never 
 be any doubt as to the quality of the fruit when it is 
 wanted for the table on any particular occasion. In the 
 matter of jellies, especially, the wise housekeeper either 
 makes exactly what she desires, or has the work done 
 under her supervision, not trusting to the grocer for 
 a supply. Only a small proportion of the jellies which 
 are sold in stores is made from fruit juice, and a roast of 
 mutton or venison is not complete without a tumbler of 
 currant, grape, or barberry jelly. 
 
 The season for one fruit succeeds that for another so 
 rapidly during the summer that unless a housekeeper be 
 watchful, the particular fruits which she may have 
 thought of preserving will go by before she is aware 
 of it. When it comes to fruit like the blackberry, which 
 ripens in Florida in March and April, and which can be 
 found in perfection in Vermont as late as September, it 
 is hard to say which is the best time for its preservation. 
 A good general rule is that all fruits are at their best 
 for canning when they are ripe and firm ; but they should 
 
828 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 not be allowed to pass to the stage of over-ripeness, for 
 decay will follow quickly. This is especially true when 
 making currant jelly. Watch the market, and use the 
 various fruits when they can be had in perfection. Fruit 
 is generally cheapest when in its prime. 
 
 Utensils Needed when Preserving. 
 
 Many people look upon the work of preserving as hard 
 and uncertain as to results. When an oil or a gas stove 
 is used, the objection to the heat is removed ; and if the 
 directions given in this chapter be followed carefully, there 
 need be no fear of failure. When preserving is to be 
 done, there should be plenty of large earthen mixing- 
 bowls, a grocer's tunnel (one with a mouth much broader 
 than ordinary tunnels have), two or three long-handled 
 wooden spoons, a long-handled skimmer, two preserving- 
 kettles, either granite-ware or porcelain-lined, two large 
 milk-pans, scales, a quart measure, two squares of cheese- 
 cloth, a colander, a puree-sieve, and a pointed flannel 
 bag. 
 
 What Kind of Jars to Use. 
 
 In small families it is more economical to use pint 
 jars than those of larger size, for small fruits. If the 
 fruits always be put up in the self-sealing jars, the 
 amount of sugar can be varied to suit individual tastes, 
 as sugar is not essential to the preservation of the fruit 
 when such jars are used. 
 
 A Few General Directions. 
 
 Peaches, pears, crab-apples, damsons and other plums 
 are preserved whole, a syrup being prepared for them. 
 Having the fruit ready, put in only such a quantity as 
 will float freely in the syrup, and cook slowly until 
 tender. Pears should be cooked for about fifteen or 
 twenty minutes ; peaches, ten to fifteen minutes ; plums, 
 
PRESERVING. 829 
 
 three to five minutes. Pears and peaches should be 
 dropped into cold water as they are pared, so that they 
 may not become discolored. In order to pare peaches, 
 put them into a wire basket, and plunge into boiling 
 water for about two minutes ; then the skin will come 
 off readily. White plums are skinned in the same way, 
 and damsons should not be skinned at all. 
 
 The jars in which fruit is to be put should be heated 
 gradually in a pan of water. After they have been 
 nearly filled with hot fruit, boiling syrup should be 
 poured over them. The covers, if glass, also should be 
 heated, and should be fastened upon the jars while hot. 
 Under these conditions provided, of course, that the 
 covers be fastened securely the fruit may be kept an 
 indefinite time ; indeed, any fruit that is made boiling 
 hot, and is at once put into jars in the way just described, 
 may be kept as long as one pleases, even if no sugar has 
 been used in the course of cooking, though the flavor 
 will not be so fine as when some sugar is used, much 
 or little, as one's taste dictates." 
 
 To Make and Clarify Syrup. 
 
 When it is desired to have the fruit and syrup exceed- 
 ingly clear, it is necessary to clarify the syrup with the 
 white of an egg. 
 
 Syrup for fruits which are very" juicy should be rich, 
 and that tor fruits which are rather dry and require 
 long cooking, should be rather thin. The proportions 
 of a rich syrup are one pint of sugar to half a pint of 
 water; the two ingredients to be boiled together for a 
 quarter of an hour. A light syrup is made of equal 
 quantities of sugar and water. 
 
 Here is a general rule for making and clarifying syrup : 
 Put two quarts of sugar and one of water in the preserv- 
 ing-kettle. Beat the whites of two eggs until they are 
 light, but not until they are dry, and stir them into the 
 
830 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 sugar and water. Place the kettle on the fire, and heat 
 the contents slowly, stirring often, until they begin to 
 boil ; then draw the kettle back immediately, and after 
 covering it, keep it on the back of the stove for half an 
 hour. The liquid should be kept at the boiling-point, 
 but should not be allowed to boil rapidly. At the end 
 of half an hour remove the cover, and lift the thick cake 
 of white scum which will be found on the surface of the 
 liquid. The syrup will then be found as clear as crystal, 
 and will be ready for use. 
 
 Should the syrup be allowed to boil hard, the white of 
 the egg would get broken into small particles, in which 
 case it would be necessary to pour the syrup through 
 a fine strainer ; but it would not be perfectly clear. 
 Either do the work of clarifying carefully, or not at 
 all. 
 
 All fruits are greatly improved if juice, instead of 
 water, be used with sugar to make the syrup. The juice 
 is particularly desirable in the case of fruits that are not 
 very acid or of pronounced flavor. It is well, also, to 
 use the juice of acid fruit in preparing syrup for a rather 
 sweet fruit. The juice of currants, barberries, or green 
 grapes, combined with sugar, makes an excellent syrup 
 in which to preserve strawberries, raspberries, black- 
 berries, apples, and pears. 
 
 * Pear Preserve. 
 
 Flemish Beauties or Sheldons are very nice if pre- 
 served in this manner : Pare the fruit, and drop it into 
 cold water, to prevent it from becoming discolored. 
 When all the fruit is pared, weigh it. Put the parings 
 into a preserving-kettle or some other kettle over which 
 a steamer can be placed. Add to the parings three pints 
 of water for every four pounds of fruit. When the 
 water begins to boil, put on the steamer, which should 
 contain enough pears to cover the bottom. Watch the 
 
PRESERVING. 831 
 
 fruit, and as soon as it becomes tender, take it up, and 
 put in a fresh supply. 
 
 When all the pears have been cooked, take off the 
 steamer and strain the liquor from the parings. To each 
 quart add one pint of sugar. Put on the fire, in the pre- 
 serving-kettle, and when it begins to boil, skim carefully. 
 Now add the pears, and simmer for twenty minutes. 
 Put the fruit in glass jars, and cover with hot syrup. 
 Close the jars at once. A small piece of ginger root in 
 each jar adds flavor to the fruit, say a piece an inch 
 long. 
 
 Pears preserved in this manner are very nice for des- 
 sert in winter, served with cake and cream. 
 
 Mace*doine Preserve. 
 
 For this preserve use six pounds each of cantaloupe, 
 pears, and peaches, twelve pounds of sugar, two quarts of 
 water, and six lemons. 
 
 Pare the lemons, being careful not to leave any white 
 skin on them, and cut them in slices ; then quarter the 
 slices. Pare the cantaloupe, and cut it in small thin 
 pieces. Now put the sugar and water in the preserving- 
 kettle and on the fire, and when the liquid begins to boil, 
 skim it carefully. Boil for ten minutes, and after adding 
 the lemons, cook for ten minutes more. 
 
 Have the pears pared and cut in eighths, and when the 
 lemon has been cooked for ten minutes, add the pears 
 and cantaloupe, and cook for ten minutes longer. Now 
 add the peaches, which have been pared and cut in 
 eighths. Cook the preserve for half an hour, being 
 careful not to boil it so rapidly that the fruit will get 
 broken. 
 
 Heat some glass jars in water, and after filling with 
 hot preserve, screw on the covers. 
 
832 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Strawberries and Raspberries in their 
 Own Juice. 
 
 Here is a good rule to follow in preserving small fruits 
 when it is desirable to keep .their color and form. It is 
 particularly nice for raspberries and strawberries. For 
 twelve quarts of berries take six quarts of sugar. Put 
 three quarts of fruit into the preserving-kettle with one 
 gill of water, and after heating very slowly, mash thor- 
 oughly. Turn into a piece of cheese-cloth, and let it 
 drain until it is cool enough to be handled ; then press 
 every particle of juice through the cloth. Put the juice 
 and sugar into the preserving-kettle, and heat slowly to 
 the boiling-point, stirring frequently. When the juice 
 boils, add the remaining nine quarts of whole berries, and 
 cook for fifteen minutes. After the fruit begins to boil, 
 the liquid should simply be allowed to bubble, and should 
 be skimmed frequently. When the fruit is cooked, put 
 it into jars, filling the remaining space with the juice. 
 There may be about a quart of juice left after the jars are 
 filled. Save it for use in the winter for sherbets, Bavarian 
 creams, pudding sauces, or anything else for which fresh 
 fruit juice would be used if it could be had. 
 
 Berries prepared by the foregoing directions will keep 
 their shape, color, and flavor, and resemble the French and 
 German preserves. 
 
 * Raspberries Preserved in Currant Juice. 
 
 * J 
 
 Use twelve quarts of raspberries, three quarts of cur- 
 rants, and three quarts of sugar. Free the currants of 
 leaves and stems, and put them into the preserving-kettle 
 and on the fire. Cook slowly for an hour, stirring and 
 mashing frequently. Spread a square of cheese-cloth in 
 a colander, and place the colander over the preserving- 
 kettle ; then pour in the hot fruit and juice, and squeeze 
 as much juice as possible from the currants and through 
 
PRESERVING. 833 
 
 the cloth. Now add the sugar to the currant juice, and 
 place the kettle over the fire. Stir frequently until the 
 sugar is melted. 
 
 Have the raspberries stripped from the stems and freed 
 of leaves, and when the syrup begins to boil, put the 
 fruit into it. Let the fruit boil for ten minutes. Skim 
 the raspberries from the syrup, and put them in glass jars 
 that have been placed in a pan of cold water and kept 
 over the fire until the water boiled. Keep the covers hot 
 in another pan of water. 
 
 Now fill the jars with hot syrup, and put on the covers 
 immediately. There will be about a quart of syrup left. 
 Seal it in a jar ; it will be nice to use in making sauces 
 or dishes for dessert in the winter. 
 
 * Raspberries Preserved in their Own Juice. 
 
 Use sixteen quarts of raspberries and four quarts of 
 sugar. Do the same as with raspberries preserved in cur- 
 rant juice, only substituting four quarts of raspberries 
 for three quarts of currants to get juice. If the fruit be 
 desired richer, six quarts of sugar may be used. 
 
 * Raspberries Preserved without Cooking. 
 
 After ridding twelve quarts of raspberries of stems 
 and leaves, put them in a large bowl with nine pints of 
 granulated sugar. Mash the fruit and sugar together, 
 and place the mixture in a cool place for three or four 
 hours. At the end of this time mix the fruit and sugar 
 very thoroughly, and pack in jars. Just before packing, 
 however, hold each jar over a lighted candle for half a 
 minute, to exhaust the air. Screw the covers on care- 
 fully. Wipe the jars, and place them in a cool, dark 
 place in the cellar. 
 
 Strawberries and blackberries can be preserved in this 
 manner. 
 
 58 
 
834 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Preserved Blackberries. 
 
 Put eight quarts of blackberries and two quarts of 
 sugar in a preserving-kettle, and heat slowly, stirring 
 often. Simmer for half an hour after the fruit begins to 
 boil. Put in small jars, and seal while hot. 
 
 * Preserved Pineapple. 
 
 To preserve pineapple, pare it, cut it into thin slices, 
 free it of the core, weigh it, and put it into a bowl with 
 half its weight of sugar. Let it stand over night, and in 
 the morning put it on the stove in a preserving-kettle. 
 When it begins to boil, skim it. Let it boil for a minute j 
 then put it into jars, and seal the jars. 
 
 * Canned Apples and Quinces, 
 
 Use one peck of apples, two quarts of quinces, and 
 two quarts of sugar. Pare the quinces, and cut out the 
 cores. Put the cores and parings into 'the preserviDg- 
 kettle with two quarts of water, and boil gently for an 
 hour. 
 
 Cut the quinces into eighths, and put them into another 
 kettle containing three pints of boiling water. Simmer 
 until the fruit is so tender that a straw will pierce it. 
 Lift the pieces from the water with a fork, and lay them 
 on a platter to drain. Now strain the water from the 
 cores and parings into the kettle in which the quinces 
 were stewed. Add the sugar, and simmer for ten minutes ; 
 then skim. 
 
 Wash the other preserving-kettle, and pour half the 
 syrup into it. Now put one-quarter of the pared, cored, 
 and quartered apples into each kettle, and add, also, one- 
 quarter of the cooked quinces to the contents of each 
 kettle. Simmer gently for twenty minutes. Fill heated 
 jars with this fruit, and seal them at once. 
 
PRESERVING. 886 
 
 Cook the remainder of the fruit in the syrup remain- 
 ing in the kettle, and seal it in cans as before. 
 
 This is a delicate preserve that may be served with 
 cake for dessert when fruit is scarce. 
 
 * Canned Apples. 
 
 Only fine-flavored tart apples should be canned. Ap- 
 ples, like all canned fruits, may be put up without sugar ; 
 but the flavor is finer when sugar is added to them dur- 
 ing the cooking. 
 
 Pare, quarter, and core one peck of tart apples. Put 
 them into a preserving-kettle with one quart of water 
 and after covering the kettle, put it on the fire. As 
 soon as the water begins to boil, draw the kettle back 
 where the fruit will cook slowly for a quarter of an 
 hour. Stir frequently. Add one quart of sugar, and 
 cook fifteen minutes longer. Have at hand some hot 
 preserving-jars, and after filling them, seal immediately. 
 It is worth the while to can a bushel of apples, or more. 
 
 * Canned Blackberries. 
 
 To can blackberries, put them in the preserving-kettle 
 with one pint of sugar to every two quarts of berries. 
 Heat slowly, and when boiling hot, pour into jars, and 
 seal at once. 
 
 Less sugar may be used if the fruit be no\, liked 
 sweet. 
 
 * Peach Marmalade. 
 
 Put the peaches in a wire basket, and plunge them 
 into boiling water for two minutes. On taking them 
 from the water, rub off the skin with a coarse towel ; 
 then cut the peaches in halves, and take out the stones. 
 Measure the fruit, and put it in the preserving-kettle. To 
 six quarts of peaches put one quart of water. Cover, and 
 cook for an hour ; then add three quarts of granulated 
 
836 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 sugar, and cook for an hour longer, stirring frequently. 
 The marmalade should be thick, smooth, and rather glossy 
 at the end of that time. Put it up in small jars or tum- 
 blers. When cold, cover with round pieces of stiff white 
 paper that have been dipped in brandy, and then paste 
 larger and thicker covers over the first, unless there be 
 metal or glass covers for the jars or tumblers. 
 
 * Raspberry Jam. 
 
 Pick eight quarts of the fruit free of leaves, stones, 
 and imperfect berries. Put it in the preserving-kettle, 
 and cook slowly for half an hour ; then break the fruit 
 with a spoon, and press it against the side of the kettle. 
 Dip out one pint and a half of the juice. Now add five 
 pints of granulated sugar to the fruit, and cook for half 
 an hour longer. Put in small jars, and seal. Keep in a 
 cool, dry place. 
 
 Put one pint of sugar with the juice, and boil for ten 
 minutes ; then pour into a hot jar, and seal. It may be 
 used in the winter for flavoring dishes for dessert. Or 
 the juice may be used in making jelly. 
 
 * Blackberry Jam. 
 
 Put eight quarts of berries in a preserving-kettle, and 
 cook slowly for two hours ; then add three quarts of 
 sugar, and cook for half an hour longer. Put in small 
 jars, and seal while hot. 
 
 Brandied Fruit. 
 
 This is an easy way to preserve fruit and retain its 
 natural flavor. Only choice fruit should be used. Put 
 into a two-gallon jar a quart of brandy and three pounds 
 of granulated sugar. Then, as various kinds of fruit 
 may be obtained, add a pound of sugar with each pound 
 of fruit. Begin with strawberries, and from time to 
 time put in large, rich cherries from which the stones 
 
PRESERVING. 837 
 
 have been removed, bananas, apricots, raspberries, pine- 
 apples, peaches, etc. Keep in a cool place, and stir 
 every few days until the last of the fruit has been 
 added. 
 
 The quantity of brandy and sugar mentioned at the 
 outset will bear seven or eight pounds each of fruit and 
 new sugar. When all the fruit has been pxit in, cover 
 the jar with a paper wet in brandy, and tie a second 
 paper over the first ; or the fruit may be transferred to 
 a number of small jars. Fruits like pineapples, peaches, 
 etc., should be pared and cut before they are put into 
 the large jar. 
 
 Braiidied fruit is nice to serve with ice-cream or to 
 freeze with it. Half a pint is enough with a gallon of 
 cream, and it should be added, in small pieces, when the 
 cream is half frozen. 
 
 JELLIES. 
 
 In making jellies it is well always to remember a few 
 facts in particular. The freer the fruit is of stems and 
 imperfect fruit, the clearer and brighter will be the 
 jelly. For example, jelly made of currants left on the 
 stems will be found several shades darker than that 
 made of stemmed currants from the same lot. Again, 
 when the fruit juice is boiled without any sugar, and the 
 hot sugar is simply added and the mixture is stirred 
 only long enough to dissolve the sugar, the jelly will be 
 many shades brighter than when the juice and sugar are 
 cooked together. 
 
 * Currant Jelly. 
 
 Free the currants from leaves and stems, and put 
 them in the preserving-kettle. Cover, and heat slowly, 
 stirring frequently. When the fruit begins to boil, mash 
 it with a vegetable-masher or with the back of a large 
 .wooden spoon. Simmer for half an hour from the time 
 the fruit begins to boil. 
 
838 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Put a puree-sieve or a colander over an earthen bowl, 
 and spread in the sieve or colander a large square of 
 cheese-cloth. Dip up the hot currants, and deposit them 
 in the sieve ; then press out as much of the juice as 
 possible. Let the fruit stand for ten or fifteen minutes, 
 to drain. Meanwhile dip a white flannel jelly-bag into 
 boiling water, and fasten it on a jelly -frame, so that it 
 shall hang over a large bowl. If there be no such frame 
 in the house, fasten the bag to two chairs. The bag should 
 be cone-shaped, and have four strong tapes sewed on the 
 edge, with which to tie it to the frame or chair. 
 
 Pour the strained currant juice into the bag, and let it 
 drip into the bowl ; then measure it, and pour it into a 
 clean preserving-kettle. Place it on the fire, and when 
 it begins to boil, skim it carefully. Boil for twenty 
 minutes, skimming frequently. 
 
 As soon as the fruit juice is put on the fire, put into a 
 milk-pan as many pints of granulated sugar as there are 
 pints of juice, and place the pan in the oven. Stir the 
 sugar frequently, and be careful that it does not become 
 brown. It should be hot by the time the fruit juice has 
 been boiling for twenty minutes. 
 
 When the juice has boiled sufficiently, draw the kettle 
 to one side of the range and add the hot sugar. Stir 
 until the sugar is wholly dissolved. Have a number of 
 jelly-tumblers in a large dripping-pan containing about 
 an inch of hot water. Pour the hot jelly into a warm 
 pitcher, and fill the tumblers from the pitcher, being care- 
 ful to fill to the top. Set away in a cool place for two 
 or three days; then cover with round pieces of white 
 note-paper that have been dipped in brandy. Now put 
 on the tin or glass covers, and set away. 
 
 The practice of straining the fruit juice the second 
 time through a flannel bag is not common; but the 
 process is worth trying, as it gives a very clear jelly. 
 
PRESERVING. 839 
 
 * Green Grape Jelly. 
 
 The grapes should be picked when about to turn, and 
 wild fruit is best. Free half a bushel from stems and 
 leaves, and put them into a large preserving-kettle. 
 Cover, and place where they will heat slowly. Stir 
 occasionally, and when they begin to soften, mash them 
 with the back of a spoon. Cook until the whole mass 
 boils, and then simmer for half an hour. 
 
 Put a large piece of cheese-cloth in a sieve, and after 
 putting the sieve over a large bowl, dip the hot grapes 
 and juice from the kettle, and deposit them in the sieve. 
 Let them stand for ten or fifteen minutes ; then take up 
 the cloth, holding it firmly at the ends, and move the 
 mass back and forth by raising the cloth first at one 
 end and then at the other. The juice will run through 
 the cloth into the bowl in about fifteen or twenty min- 
 utes. When as much as possible has been obtained, 
 put the cloth into the sieve again, and place the 
 sieve over another bowl. Wash the preserving-kettle 
 carefully, and measure the grape juice into it. Set 
 upon the stove, and as soon as the liquid begins to 
 boil, skim it. Boil rapidly for twenty minutes, skim- 
 ming frequently. 
 
 When the juice is first set upon the stove, put into a 
 pan (a milk-pan is best) as many pints of granulated 
 sugar as there are pints of juice, and place in the oven. 
 Stir often, to prevent coloring. When the juice has 
 boiled hard for twenty minutes, add the hot sugar, and 
 stir until it is dissolved ; then remove the jelly from 
 the stove. Have ready some tumblers, standing in a 
 dripping-pan containing about half an inch of warm 
 water. Dip up the jelly with a cup, and fill these tum- 
 blers. Let the jelly cool, and then set away in a cool, 
 dry place. After three or four days cover the tumblers 
 with round pieces of white note-paper which have been 
 dipped in brandy ; then put on the tin or glass covers. 
 
840 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 This jelly will have a light color, and be a pleasant sub- 
 stitute for currant jelly. 
 
 Kipe grape, blackberry, and raspberry jellies all are 
 made in the same manner. 
 
 * Raspberry Jelly. 
 
 Use fresh and dry fruit. Free it from stems and 
 leaves, and put it in a preserving-kettle. Heat slowly, 
 and cook for half an hour. Press out the juice, strain it, 
 and proceed as directed for currant jelly, on the preced- 
 ing page. 
 
 Blackberry jelly is made in the same manner. 
 
 * Apple Jelly. 
 
 Wash, and cut into small pieces enough rich-flavored 
 tart apples to make three quarts, and putting them into 
 a preserving-kettle with three quarts of cold water, boil 
 gently until they can be mashed smooth. Put a piece 
 of cheese-cloth in a sieve, and after placing the sieve 
 over a large bowl, pour the apple into it, and treat in the 
 same way that green grapes are treated, save that a little 
 more pressure should be used. When all the juice has 
 passed through, strain it through a clean piece of cheese- 
 cloth. Now proceed the same as when making grape 
 jelly, only boiling the mixture, however, for five minutes 
 after the sugar has been added. 
 
 Quince, crab-apple, peach, and barberry jellies all are 
 made in the same manner. 
 
 The pulp of fruit from which jellies have been made 
 need not be wasted. Rub it through a sieve, and add it 
 to an equal volume of fresh fruit that has been boiled 
 to a pulp and sifted. Put this mixture into a kettle with 
 a pint of sugar to each pint of pulp, and after heating 
 slowly to the boiling-point, cook for twenty minutes. 
 When fruit is plentiful and cheap it hardly pays to use 
 
PRESERVING. 841 
 
 the pulp of that from which jelly has been made, because 
 the juice contains the greater part of the fine flavor. 
 
 It is wise always to use, in preserving, the best of 
 sugar and fruit. 
 
 Wash, wipe, pare, and core one peck of tart apples. 
 Put the cores and parings into a preserving-kettle, with 
 three pints of water, and simmer for two hours. Put 
 the apples and half a pint of lemon juice into another 
 kettle, and pour on boiling water enough to cover the 
 fruit. Simmer for two hours. 
 
 Strain the liquid from the two kettles through a piece 
 of cheese-cloth and into a bowl. Give the fruit ample 
 time to drain, but do not squeeze it. Wash one of the 
 kettles, and measure the strained juice into it. To each 
 pint add a pint of granulated sugar. Let the liquid boil 
 for twenty-five minutes, skimming frequently. Fill the 
 jelly-tumblers to the brim, and when the jelly is cold 
 and firm, cover the glasses. 
 
 * Raspberry Syrup. 
 
 Use two quarts of sugar, three quarts of currants, four 
 quarts of raspberries, and one quart of water. 
 
 Free the fruit from stems and leaves, and put it in a 
 preserving-kettle. Heat slowly, and mash with a wooden 
 vegetable-masher. Cook for half an hour. 
 
 Put the sugar and boiling water in another preserving- 
 kettle, and boil gently during the last ten minutes that 
 the fruit is cooking, skimming carefully. Now add the 
 hot crushed fruit, and cook for a quarter of an hour 
 longer. Strain and cool. When cold, put in small bot- 
 tles, corking them tightly, and putting them away in a 
 cool, dark place. 
 
 An excellent drink can be made in hot weather by 
 putting three or four table-spoonfuls of this syrup in a 
 glass of ice-water. 
 
842 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Raspberry Vinegar. 
 
 Use one pint of white wine vinegar, or cider vinegar, 
 four quarts of raspberries, and three pints of sugar. In 
 the morning put two quarts of the raspberries into a 
 large stone-china bowl, and pour the vinegar over them. 
 Do not mash the berries. Cover the bowl, and set it 
 away in a cool place. The next morning strain off the 
 liquid, and turn the berries out of the bowl. Put the 
 other two quarts of berries into the bowl, and pour 
 the liquid over them. Let them stand until the next 
 day, when the liquid must be strained into a preserving- 
 kettle. Add the sugar, and place the kettle on the fire. 
 When the liquid begins to boil, skim it carefully, and boil 
 for twenty minutes ; then cool it, and put it into small 
 bottles, corking them tightly. This makes a refreshing 
 drink in hot weather, and is good in sickness. 
 
 The berries from which the liquid was strained may 
 be put in a preserving-kettle with a pint and a half of 
 sugar and one gill of water, and be cooked slowly for an 
 hour. They should then be put in tumblers, and will be 
 nice to eat with roast meats. 
 
 * Blackberry Cordial. 
 
 Put the blackberries in the preserving-kettle, and heat 
 slowly until they begin to boil. Mash the berries, and 
 cook slowly for half an hour; then strain the juice 
 through a piece of cheese-cloth. Measure it, and put 
 it into a clean preserving-kettle. To each quart add half 
 a pint of sugar, half a teaspoonful of cinnamon, one- 
 fourth of a teaspoonful of ground cloves, and half a 
 nutmeg, grated. Boil for half an hour. Let the liquid 
 cool, and add a gill of brandy. Bottle, and put away in 
 a cool place. 
 
 This is excellent for bowel complaints. If one does 
 not wish to use brandy, it may be omitted. Every one 
 
PRESERVING. 843 
 
 should prepare at least a quart of this cordial when the 
 berries are in their prime. 
 
 * Pickled Blackberries. 
 
 Put a quart of sugar, a pint of vinegar, and half a 
 teaspoonful each of cinnamon, allspice, and cloves into 
 the preserving-kettle, and place over a moderate fire. 
 When the mixture boils, add four quarts of blackberries, 
 and cook for a quarter of an hour longer ; then turn into 
 pint jars. There will be enough to fill six. 
 
 * Spiced Currants. 
 
 Use seven pounds of red currants, half a pint of strong 
 vinegar, half a pint of currant juice, three pints and a 
 half of granulated sugar, two ounces of stick cinnamon, 
 and one ounce of whole cloves. 
 
 Tie the spice in a bag, and put it in the preserving- 
 Kettle with the sugar, vinegar, and currant juice. Place 
 on the fire, and when the mixture boils, add the currants. 
 Boil until the currant mixture will jelly. It will take 
 from an hour to an hour and a half for this. 
 
 .* Spiced Grapes. 
 
 PMpare grapes the same as currants. These apioed 
 
 frui* are nice to serve with meats. 
 
 y 
 
 *To Can Tomatoes Whole. 
 
 Select large, smooth tomatoes. Wash them, and put 
 them in a deep pan ; then cover with boiling water, and 
 let them stand for five minutes. This will loosen the 
 skins. Pour off the water, and pare the tomatoes. Now 
 lay them- in a deep dish, and put them into a moderately 
 hot oven. Cook for thirty minutes, being careful that 
 they do not get browned. 
 
 When these tomatoes are put into the oven, put a 
 stew-pan of sliced tomatoes on the fire. Stir frequently, 
 
844 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 to prevent burning. When they have been stewed for 
 twenty minutes, rub them through a fine strainer ; then 
 return to the stew-pan. 
 
 Place some self-sealing cans on the fire in a pan 
 of cold water, and heat the water gradually to the 
 boiling-point. 
 
 When the whole tomatoes are done, take the dish 
 from the oven, and transfer the tomatoes to the hot 
 jars, being careful not to break the vegetables. Pour 
 the juice into the jars, and fill up with the strained 
 tomatoes, which must be boiling hot. Have the jars so 
 full that a little juice runs over. Now put on the elastic 
 bands and the covers. Tighten the covers as much as 
 possible, and when the jars become cold, tighten the 
 covers again. Place in a dark, cool place. In the winter 
 these tomatoes can be used for salads. 
 
 For a peck of the whole tomatoes, use two quarts of 
 sliced tomatoes for the juice to fill the cans. In some 
 cases this will prove too much; but what is left over 
 may be used for soup, sauce, or ketchup. 
 
 * Canned Tomatoes. 
 
 Pare the tomatoes as directed when preserving whole 
 tomatoes; then slice them, and put them in a preserv- 
 ing-kettle. Heat slowly, stirring frequently to prevent 
 burning. Let them boil gently for twenty minutes from 
 the time they actually begin to boil. Have the jars 
 heated in water, and fill and seal as before. 
 
 * Canned Corn and Tomatoes. 
 
 Use two dozen ears of tender green corn, half a peck 
 of ripe tomatoes, one teaspoonful of white pepper, two 
 level table-spoonfuls of salt, and half a pint of boiling 
 water. 
 
 Cover the tomatoes with boiling water for a few min- 
 utes ; then remove the skins, and cut the tomatoes in 
 
PRESERVING. 845 
 
 thin slices. Draw the husks and silk from the corn. 
 With a sharp knife cut through the centre of each row 
 of grains, and when all the grains have been treated in 
 this manner, cut them off, being careful to remove every 
 particle of the milky substance. When all the cobs have 
 been treated in this way, put the water in a stew-pan, 
 and then add the corn. Simmer for half an hour ; then 
 add the tomatoes and seasoning, and cook slowly until 
 the contents of the stew-pan begin to boil. Now boil 
 for ten minutes. 
 
 When the tomatoes are added to the corn, put glass 
 jars in a pan of cold water, and place them on the 
 fire where the water will gradually get heated to the 
 boiling-point. 
 
 When the corn and tomatoes have been boiling for 
 ten minutes, pour the water from two of the jars, and 
 fill with the boiling mixture. Put on immediately the 
 rubber bands and the covers, which should be screwed 
 on as tight as possible. Continue in this way until 
 all the jars are filled. When the jars are almost cold, 
 tighten the covers again. 
 
 * Succotash. 
 
 Soak six quarts of Lima beans in cold water for two 
 hours, and then put them in a stew-pan with boiling 
 water, and boil them for an hour, if they be young and 
 tender, or for an hour and a half, if they be at all old. 
 Prepare and#cook four dozen ears of corn in the manner 
 directed in the preceding receipt. When the beans are 
 tender, drain off the water, and add them to the corn. 
 Now add one teaspoonful of pepper and two level table- 
 spoonfuls of salt. Boil for ten minutes, and can in the 
 same way corn and tomatoes are canned. 
 
 * Okra and Tomatoes. 
 
 Use half a peck of tomatoes and one peck of green, 
 crisp okra. Pare and slice the tomatoes. Wash the 
 
846 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION 
 
 okra, and cut off the stem ends ; then cut in thin slices. 
 Put both of the vegetables together in a stew-pan, and 
 simmer for half an hour, being careful not to burn. Can 
 the same as corn and tomatoes. 
 
 This will be found nice as a vegetable, or to use in 
 soup in the winter and spring. 
 
 ' 
 
 * Cucumber Pickles. 
 
 Use small cucumbers only. Wash them carefully, to 
 free them of particles of earth ; then lay them in a large 
 stone jar or bowl. For eight quarts of cucumbers put 
 into a stew-pan a gallon of boiling water and a pint of 
 salt. When the water begins to boil, skim it, and then 
 pour it over the cucumbers. Do this in the morning. 
 In the afternoon pour the brine from the cucumbers into 
 the saucepan, and after heating it to the boiling-point, 
 pour it over the cucumbers for the second time, and 
 let them stand in the brine all night. In the morning 
 scald the brine for the third time, and pour it over the 
 cucumbers, letting them stand in it for six hours. Now 
 add a table-spoonful of alum to one gallon of boiling 
 water, and after turning off the brine, pour this alum 
 water over the cucumbers. Let them stand for six 
 hours ; then scald the water, and pour it over them 
 again. 
 
 The next morning drain the cucumbers. Now put one 
 gallon of vinegar in the preserving-kettle with four bell 
 peppers, three sticks of cinnamon, one table-spoonful of 
 whole allspice, and half a table-spoonful of whole cloves. 
 Place on the fire, and heat slowly to the boiling-point. 
 
 Put one quart of vinegar on the fire in another kettle, 
 and when it begins to boil, drop eight or ten cucumbers 
 into it. Cook them for eight minutes, and on taking 
 them out, lay them in a stone jar. Continue scalding 
 the cucumbers in this way until they are all done ; then 
 pour the hot, spiced vinegar over them. Cover closely, 
 
PRESERVING. 847 
 
 and when they are cold, set them away in a cool, dark 
 place. 
 The spice may be omitted if not liked. 
 
 * Combination Pickle. 
 
 This is easily and quickly made, no cooking being 
 required. Use three quarts of ripe tomatoes, pared and 
 chopped fine, half a pint of grated horse-radish, one pint 
 of celery, chopped fine, half a cupful of chopped onion, 
 eight table-spoonfuls of mustard-seed, two table-spoonfuls 
 of chopped red peppers, eight table-spoonfuls of sugar, 
 eight of salt, one table-spoonful of ground cinnamon, a 
 level teaspoonful each of clove and mace, and one quart 
 of vinegar. 
 
 Mix all these ingredients thoroughly, and then pack 
 the pickle in a stone jar. It will be ready for use in a 
 few days, and will keep for months in a cool place, 
 
 * Chow-chow. 
 
 For two quarts of this pickle use one good-sized head 
 of cauliflower (one weighing about three pounds), eight 
 small green peppers, ten small cucumbers, about an inch 
 and a half long, one pint of pickling onions of the small- 
 est size (they should not be larger than a cherry), one 
 pint of salt, one quart of vinegar, three table-spoonfuls 
 of turn eric, a generous teaspoonful of cayenne, and one 
 gill of water. 
 
 Peel the onions, and cook them in boiling water for a 
 quarter of an hour ; then pour off the water, and put 
 them into a bowl. Break the cauliflower into small 
 branches, and wash in cold water. Put the peppers, 
 cucumbers, and cauliflower into a large bowl. Put the 
 salt into a stew-pan with two quarts of boiling water. 
 Boil for ten minutes. Skim this brine, and pour a part 
 on the vegetables and a part on the onions. Let these 
 
848 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 ingredients stand in a cold place for twenty-four hours. 
 At the end of this time pour off the brine, and put the 
 vegetables into a preserving-kettle. Mix the mustard, 
 tumeric, and cayenne with the water, and add to the 
 vegetables. Now add the vinegar, and place the kettle 
 on the fire. Heat slowly to the boiling-point, and sim- 
 mer for one hour. Put the pickle into hot jars, and seal. 
 
 * Albany Chow-chow. 
 
 The materials are : one peck of green tomatoes, half a 
 peck of ripe tomatoes, one dozen of small white onions, ' 
 one dozen green "bull-nosed" peppers, four red bull- 
 nosed peppers, one peck of chopped white cabbage, one 
 pint of salt, one quart of granulated sugar, one cupful of 
 grated horse-radish, one table-spoonful of white pepper, 
 one table-spoonful of powdered mace, one table-spoonful 
 of powdered mustard, half a pint of Dutch mustard, one 
 ounce of white mustard seed, one ounce of celery seed, 
 and cold vinegar enough to cover the whole mass. 
 
 Chop fine the tomatoes, onions, and peppers. Mix the 
 chopped cabbage and salt with these. Make a large bag 
 of coarse cotton cloth. Put this mixture into it, and lay 
 it in a press. If there be no press at hand, one may be 
 extemporized by laying slats across a keg, placing the 
 bag on these and then putting a heavy plank with 
 weights on the bag. This presses out the strong rank 
 juices of the vegetables. Keep them in the press for 
 twenty-four hours. At the end of that time turn the 
 vegetables from the bag into a bowl, and add the other 
 ingredients. Mix thoroughly, and add enough cold vine- 
 gar to cover the mixture. Pack in wide-mouthed bottles 
 or self-sealing jars. 
 
 This chow-chow is not to be cooke^ It will keep all 
 winter. 
 
PRESERVING. 849 
 
 * Chow-chow of Ripe Cucumbers and Onions. 
 
 Use four quarts of ripe cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and 
 chopped fine, two quarts of white onions, chopped fine, 
 half a pint of salt, two ounces of white mustard seed, 
 two green peppers and one red pepper, one table-spoon- 
 ful of black pepper, and enough vinegar to cover the 
 mixture. 
 
 Mix the chopped onion and cucumbers with the salt, 
 and put in the press for twenty-four hours. At the end 
 of that time put the vegetables in a bowl, and add the 
 dry ingredients. Mix well, and then add the vinegar. 
 Put the chow-chow in jars, and place a few nasturtium 
 leaves and a few pieces of horse-radish root in the mouth 
 of the jar. They flavor the chow-chow, and help to keep 
 it fresh. 
 
 * India Chutney. 
 
 The proportions are : two quarts of pared, cored, and 
 sliced tart apples, the same quantity of green tomatoes, 
 chopped fine, one pound of stoned raisins, chopped fine, 
 three cloves of garlic, one shallot, one pint and a half of 
 brown sugar, one pint of lemon juice, one pint and a half 
 of vinegar, one gill of salt, one teaspoonful of cayenne, 
 and one table-spoonful of powdered ginger. 
 
 Grate the garlic and shallot. Put all the ingredients 
 into a large stone jar, and let them stand over night. In 
 the morning place the jar on the fire in a kettle of cold 
 water. Heat slowly to the boiling-point, and boil for six 
 hours, stirring occasionally. Heat pint preserving-jars, 
 and after filling them, screw on the covers carefully 
 This pickle will keep for years. g^ 
 
 ii'h: 
 
 * American Chutney. 
 
 Use half a peck of green tomatoes, four green peppers, 
 two large onions, one gill of salt, one gill of grated horse- 
 radish, half a pint of lemon juice, one pint and a half of 
 
850 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 vinegar, one pint of sugar, one teaspoonful of ground 
 clove, and one table-spoonful each of ground cinnamon 
 and allspice. 
 
 Chop the tomatoes, and let them drain through a col- 
 ander for one hour. Chop the peppers very fine. Now 
 put the tomatoes and other ingredients into a preserving- 
 kettle, and place on the fire. Heat slowly to the boiling- 
 point, and cook for an hour, stirring frequently ; then 
 pour into pint jars, and seal. 
 
 * Green Tomato Soyt 
 
 The materials required are : one peck of green toma- 
 toes, one quart of sliced onions, one pint of salt, half a 
 pound of mustard seed, half a cupful of ground mustard, 
 one dozen pepper-corns, one dozen whole allspice, and 
 one quart of vinegar. 
 
 Wash the tomatoes, and cut off the stems ; then chop 
 fine. Mix the salt with them, and after covering the 
 mixture, let it stand in a cool place for twenty-four hours. 
 At the end of that time turn it into a colander, and drain 
 well. Now put this mixture into the preserving-kettle 
 with the other ingredients, first, however, mixing the 
 ground mustard with one cupful of cold water. Cook 
 slowly, stirring frequently, for three hours. Pour the 
 soy into pint jars, and seal carefully. When cold, put 
 in a dark, cool place. 
 
 This pickle will keep for several months without being 
 sealed. 
 
 * Tomato Ketchup. 
 
 For five quarts of ketchup use one generous peck of 
 ripe tomatoes, one quart of strong vinegar, one pint of 
 sugar, three table-spoonfuls of salt, one table-spoonful 
 of whole allspice, a level teaspoonful of cayenne, one 
 table-spoonful of whole cloves, one table-spoonful of 
 mustard seed, two onions, one teaspoonful of white 
 pepper, two blades of mace, and two sticks of cinnamon. 
 
PRESERVING. 851 
 
 Wash the tomatoes ; then cut them into small pieces, 
 and put them in the preserving-kettle. Pare and slice 
 the onions, and add them to the tomatoes. Place on the 
 fire, and cook slowly for one hour. Now rub the cooked 
 vegetables through a sieve, and return to the preserving- 
 kettle. Place on the fire, and after adding the other 
 ingredients, cook for four hours, stirring frequently ; then 
 strain. Have wide-mouthed bottles heated in water, and 
 after filling them with the ketchup, cork them tightly, 
 and seal. 
 
 * Tomato Ketchup. 
 
 Use one peck of ripe tomatoes, one pint of vinegar, 
 half a cupful of salt, half an ounce of ground clove, one 
 ounce of ground allspice, half a teaspoonful of cayenne, 
 and one teaspoonful of black pepper. 
 
 Wash the tomatoes, and cut them in slices. Put them 
 on the fire in the preserving-kettle, and simmer for half 
 an hour; then rub through a sieve. Put the strained 
 tomato into the kettle, and add the other ingredients. 
 Boil gently. for eight hours, stirring often. Bottle while 
 hot. 
 
852 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 FOOD FOR THE SICK. 
 
 No attempt will be made in this chapter to cover 
 the whole ground of food for the sick, as that alone 
 would require a small volume. The dishes that will be 
 given are such as every woman should know how to 
 make well and serve daintily. Exact quantities, time, 
 and method will be stated. There is no reason why any 
 woman should be unable to prepare any one of these 
 dishes successfully. All through the book will be found 
 receipts for dishes that a delicate invalid can eat with 
 pleasure and safety.. There will be no danger in par- 
 taking of nearly all the soups, the plain vegetables if 
 carefully cooked, roast, boiled, and broiled meats, boiled 
 and broiled fish, all kinds of bread if stale or toasted, 
 cooked fruits, simple puddings into which no fat enters, 
 jellies, creams, and other light desserts. 
 
 Never give re-cooked meats, fish, or vegetables to an 
 invalid, and cook only small quantities of food for him. 
 Simplicity, variety, and healthfulness are the things to 
 be considered in preparing food for the sick. What is 
 good for one person frequently is injurious to another. 
 One must not become impatient or discouraged because 
 the invalid is changeable in his tastes. 
 
 Milk is now given in almost all kinds of illness. In 
 cases where pure milk does not agree with a patient 
 a table-spoonful of lime-water is sometimes added to a 
 glass of milk; or a little soda-water may be added to 
 the milk just as the patient is about to take it. In mak- 
 ing tea, coffee, or chocolate for the sick, be careful to 
 serve it aa gpon as made. 
 
FOOD FOR THE SICK. 853 
 
 The eye as well as the palate of the patient is to be 
 considered. The tray always should be covered with a 
 fresh napkin ; the china, glass, and silver should be the 
 daintiest the house affords. 
 
 Only a few things should be served at a time ; it is 
 better that the patient should think he has not had 
 enough to eat, than that he should lose his appetite on 
 the appearance of a large quantity of food. 
 
 Always serve tea, coffee, and chocolate in a little pot, 
 and pour it into the cup in the presence of the patient. 
 Tiny bowls, pitchers, and teapots can be purchased in 
 cheap ware or in the most delicate and expensive of 
 china. A set of these and two delicate cups and saucers 
 should be in every house. One flower in a pretty vase 
 adds to the beauty of a tray. A bit of green on a small 
 piece of steak, a chop, or a fillet of fish will make these 
 dishes doubly attractive. 
 
 * Beefsteak. 
 
 Have a piece of steak about three inches square and 
 nearly an inch thick, cut, if possible, from the top of the 
 porterhouse. The tenderloin is commonly cooked for in- 
 valids ; but it is the least nutritious of all the cuts, and 
 therefore is not suitable food for an invalid. Put the 
 steak in the double-broiler, and cook for eight minutes 
 over a bright fire. Hold the broiler close to the coals 
 for the first three minutes ; then raise it several inches 
 higher in order that the steak may cook more slowly. 
 The broiler must be turned constantly while the steak is 
 being cooked. When the steak is done, slip it from the 
 broiler on a warm dish, sprinkle a little salt over it, 
 and then spread a teaspoonful of butter on it. Serve at 
 once. Never place the steak in the oven, nor over water, 
 nor on the back of the range to keep hot or melt the 
 butter. Even a minute's stay in the oven will injure the 
 flavor of the steak and the butter. Everything should 
 
854 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 be ready to serve the moment the steak comes from 
 the fire. 
 
 The time stated for cooking the steak will give a piece 
 of meat that is red from the thin brown crust on the 
 surface to the centre, provided that the steak be cut 
 about an inch thick; if half an inch thick, cook for only 
 five minutes. 
 
 * Round Steak. 
 
 When it is not possible to get a tender, juicy steak, or 
 when the patient's power of mastication is not good, a 
 nutritious and digestible steak can be prepared from the 
 round of beef. 
 
 Lay a thin slice of round steak on a board. Scrape 
 one surface of the meat with a sharp knife until there 
 is nothing left on that side but the tough fibres ; then 
 turn the meat over, and scrape the other side in like 
 manner. As the tender meat is scraped off, put it into a 
 small dish. Press this into a square, having it about 
 iialf an inch thick. Kub the bars of the double-broiler 
 with a little butter, and lay the steak between them. 
 Broil over clear coals for five minutes. Place the steak 
 on a warm dish, spread a little butter on it, and season 
 with salt. Serve at once. 
 
 * Victimized Chop. 
 
 Have one chop cut about three-quarters of an inch 
 thick, and two chops from the neck, cut very thin. Trim 
 the thick chop, and place it between the other two. 
 Place in the double-broiler, and cook over clear coals for 
 about twelve minutes. Hold the broiler close to the 
 coals so that the outside chops shall be scorched. When 
 cooked, remove the outside chops, and place the middle 
 one on a warm dish; season it with salt, and spread 
 about half a teaspoon ful of butter over it. Serve at 
 once. This chop is to be given to a patient when it is 
 desired that the food shall be particularly nutritious. 
 
FOOD FOR THE SICK. 855 
 
 * Plain Broiled Chops. 
 
 Trim two small chops, and broil and serve them in the 
 manner described for beefsteak. 
 
 * Beef Sandwiches. 
 
 Scrape some beef in the manner described for prepar- 
 ing round steak; season it generously with salt. Cut 
 four slices of stale bread as thin as a wafer ; spread the 
 beef on two of the slices, and lay the other slices on top, 
 pressing them down carefully. Cut them into small 
 pieces about an inch square. Arrange these daintily 
 on a fringed napkin or in a pretty little dish. This is 
 one of the pleasantest modes of serving raw beef. 
 
 * Beef Croquettes. 
 
 When the patient must eat raw beef, this is one of 
 the palatable ways in which it may be served. Scrape 
 the beef as directed for preparing round steak ; season the 
 tender scraped beef with salt, and shape it into balls 
 about the size of a small olive. Heat a small frying-pan 
 very hot; sprinkle it thickly with salt; put the beef 
 balls into this, and shake the pan over a very hot fire 
 for about one minute. The balls will then be coated 
 brown on the outside, but will be raw under the thin 
 coating of brown. 
 
 Game. 
 
 Nearly all kinds of game are more easily digested 
 than the meat of domestic animals; therefore, when 
 fresh and tender, game is good for the patient who 
 can eat animal food. 
 
 * Venison Steak. 
 
 Cut a piece of steak three inches square and three- 
 quarters of an inch thick. Cook it for seven minutes, 
 
856 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 treating it in every particular the same as beefsteak. 
 Serve with the steak a teaspoonful of currant jelly in a 
 small dish. 
 
 Broiled Breast of Grouse. 
 
 Take one-half of the breast of a sweet, tender grouse, 
 place it in the double-broiler, dredge lightly with flour 
 and salt, and broil over clear coals for eight minutes. 
 Place on a warm dish, season with salt and half a tea- 
 spoonful of butter, and serve at once. 
 
 The breast of a partridge may be cooked in the same 
 manner, but only ten minutes' cooking is required. 
 
 Quail on Toast. 
 
 Split the quail down the back, remove the entrails, 
 wipe the bird, and dredge it with salt. Broil over a 
 clear fire for ten minutes. If the patient be not very 
 sick, before broiling the bird, spread a little soft butter 
 over the breast and legs, and then dredge with flour. 
 Lay the bird, breast up, on a slice of toast, and serve at 
 once. 
 
 Squab on Toast. 
 
 Split the squab down the back; clean and cook the 
 same as quail. 
 
 Any small bird may be cooked in the same manner. 
 
 * Broiled Bacon. 
 
 When the stomach is in an inflamed condition, as in 
 gastric fever, fat bacon, if delicately broiled, will be 
 found to be healing and appetizing. Have the best kind 
 of fat smoked bacon, very cold. Cut it in thin slices 
 (the slices should be so thin that you can look through 
 them). Place the slices in the double-broiler, and cook 
 over clear coals until the bacon curls. It will take 
 about five minutes. Turn the broiler constantly while 
 cooking the bacon. When done, serve at once. 
 
FOOD FOR THE SICK. 857 
 
 * Broiled Fish. 
 
 White fish is more easily digested than dark fish, and 
 therefore always should be selected for an invalid. 
 Broiling is to be preferred to all other methods of 
 cooking. Have a piece of the thick part of the fish, 
 free of skin and bones ; season it with salt, and dredge 
 it lightly with flour; rub the bars of a double-broiler 
 with butter, and place the fish between them. If the 
 fish be three-quarters of an inch thick, broil it over 
 clear coals for twelve minutes. Slip it on to a warm 
 dish, and spread butter over it. A piece of fish four 
 inches long and three wide will require a generous 
 teaspoonful of butter. 
 
 *Salt Fish in Cream. 
 
 Break into flakes enough salt codfish to make half a 
 cupful. Wash this, and put it in a small saucepan with 
 C)ld water enough to cover it. Cover the saucepan, put 
 it\n another of cold water, and place on the back of the 
 rarrre, where the water will heat slowly, but not boiL 
 Cook for three hours in this manner. Pour off the water, 
 and aid one gill of cream or rich milk to the fish. Draw 
 the saucepans forward where the water in the outer pan 
 will boii Mix a level teaspoonful of flour with two 
 table-spoo\fuls of cold milk, and stir into the fish and 
 milk. Coo\ for fifteen minutes, and then add one tea- 
 spoonful of Kitter. Serve this with a baked potato or 
 with toast. \ 
 
 \Broiled Salt Codfish. 
 
 Take a piece oi^hick salt fish about two inches square; 
 wash it, and let X soak in water for twenty minutes. 
 Then wipe it, and t^jil f or ten minutes. Spread half a 
 teaspoonful of butteV> ver this, and serve with a baked 
 potato or slice of water* ast. 
 
 These two simple disfc o f fish are to all invalids very 
 welcome occasionally. \ e broiled salt fish, without 
 
858 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 butter, if served with a small piece of toasted pilot bread, 
 or any kind of water cracker toasted, will often cure 
 nausea. 
 
 * Oyster Stew. 
 
 Use half a pint of oysters, half a pint of milk, one 
 teaspoonful of butter, a little salt, and, if the patient 
 can bear it, a little pepper. 
 
 Drain the liquor from the oysters, and put it into a 
 saucepan and on the fire. When it boils, skim it care- 
 fully. Heat the milk to the boiling-point, in a second 
 saucepan. When the oyster liquor has been skimmed, 
 add it and the oysters and butter to the milk. Season, 
 and boil up once. Serve immediately. 
 
 * Oyster Roast. 
 
 Heat half a pint of oysters to the boiling-point in their 
 own liquor. Skim them, and then add one generous 
 teaspoonful of butter and enough salt and pepper to 
 season them properly. Pour the oysters and liquor ever 
 a slice of toast, and serve at once. 
 
 * Oysters Roasted in the Shell. 
 
 Wash half a dozen or more oyster shells. ^ J ut them 
 into an old pan, and put the pan into a hot oven. As 
 soon as the shells begin to open, take then from the 
 oven. Take the oysters from the shell, aid put them 
 into a small warm dish. Season with sfit, pepper, and 
 a little butter, and serve at once, with a thin strip of 
 toast. 
 
 * Steamed Oysters- 
 
 Put half a dozen large oysters i* a saucer. Place the 
 saucer in a steamer and over a Jattle of boiling water. 
 Cook for about five minutes. Peason with salt, pepper, 
 and butter, and" serve on a w*rm dish, with a toasted 
 cracker. 
 
FOOD FOR THE SICK. 859 
 
 * Beef Tea. 
 
 Put in a large-mouthed bottle one pound of beef, free 
 of fat, and chopped fine. Add to it half a pint of cold 
 water. Let it stand for an hour. At the end of that 
 time place the bottle in a saucepan of cold water. Place 
 the pan on the fire, and heat the water slowly almost to 
 the boiling-point, but do not let it boil. Cook the beef 
 for two hours ; then strain, and season with salt. 
 
 The thick sediment which falls to the bottom when 
 the tea stands awhile is the most nutritious part, yet 
 many people serve only the clearer and poorer part to 
 the patient. It is to keep this sediment (the albuminoids) 
 in a soft digestible condition, that care is taken not to 
 let the water which surrounds the bottle boil. Great 
 heat hardens the albuminoids. 
 
 If a patient takes a great deal of beef tea, the flavor 
 may be changed occasionally by putting a piece of stick 
 cinnamon about an inch square into the bottle with the 
 "peat and water. 
 
 * Put into a oowl a pound of beef, free of fat, and 
 chopped fine. Add half a pint of cold water, and stir 
 well. Place the bowl in the refrigerator for four hours. 
 When the tea is to be given to the patient, strain into 
 a saucepan as much as will be required. Season it with 
 salt, and place the saucepan on the fire. Stir constantly 
 until the tea is hot, but do not let it boil. 
 
 This tea has a peculiarly bright flavor, and affords a 
 pleasant change from that made by long steeping in 
 hot water. 
 
 * Beef Extract. 
 
 Chop lean beef very fine, and put it in a wide-mouthed 
 bottle. Place the bottle in a saucepan of cold water. 
 Heat very slowly, and keep near the boiling-point for 
 
860 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 four hours. Pour off the juice, pressing the meat to 
 extract every particle of juice. Season slightly with 
 salt. 
 
 * Frozen Beef Tea. 
 
 Put a small pail in a wooden bucket, and surround it 
 with salt and crushed ice. See that there is no salt in 
 the pail. Put cold beef tea in the pail, and let it stand 
 for about ten minutes. At the end of that time take 
 the cover off the pail, and scrape the congealed beef tea 
 from the sides. Beat well, and then put back the cover. 
 Do this two or three times, and the tea will be frozen 
 smooth. 
 
 This is for patients who must have all their food cold. 
 
 * Beef Juice. 
 
 Put a piece of round steak about an inch thick into 
 the double-broiler, and cook the same as beefsteak, except 
 that this is to be cooked for only seven minutes. Cut 
 it into small pieces, and, putting these in a lemon-squeezer, 
 press the juice into a small warm dish. The Dean lemon- 
 squeezer (illustrated on page 53) is particularly nice for 
 this work. The squeezer should be heated before the 
 meat is put into it. 
 
 Presses come for this purpose, and with their aid the 
 work can be done quickly and well. 
 
 * Mutton Juice. 
 
 Cut a thick slice from a leg of mutton, and cut off all 
 the fat. Broil the meat, and treat the same as when 
 preparing beef juice. 
 
 The dish gravy from a roast of beef or mutton can be 
 used for a patient instead of broiling meat especially to 
 get juice. Care must be taken that there is no fat 
 mingled with it. 
 
FOOD FOB THE SICK. 861 
 
 * Sippets. 
 
 Toast one slice of bread a delicate brown. Cut it into 
 narrow strips, and arrange on a warm plate. Season 
 warm beef or mutton juice with salt, and pour it over 
 the strips of toast. Serve at once. 
 
 * Clam Broth. 
 
 Get the clams in the shells. Wash them carefully in 
 several waters. Put ten or a dozen clams in a stew-pan, 
 and add half a pint of boiling water. Place on the fire, 
 and boil for fifteen minutes. Strain the liquor through 
 a fine sieve. Taste, to be sure there is salt enough. If, 
 on the other hand, the broth is too salty, dilute it with 
 boiling water. This is a stimulating and nutritious 
 drink. 
 
 * Mutton Broth. 
 
 This is made of a quarter of a pound of the scraggy 
 part of a neck of mutton. Cut off all the fat, and cut 
 the meat into cubes. Add to the meat a table-spoonful 
 of barley and a pint of cold water. Heat the broth 
 slowly to the boiling-point, and skim carefully. Set 
 back where it will simmer. Put the bones into half a 
 pint of cold water, and boil gently for half an hour ; 
 then strain the liquor on the meat and barley, and 
 cook the broth for two hours more. Season well with 
 salt. 
 
 The barley may be omitted. 
 
 * Chicken Broth. 
 
 Free half of a young fowl of skin and fat. Wash it, 
 and cut it into small pieces. Put it in a stew-pan with 
 one quart of cold water. Place on the fire, and heat 
 slowly to the boiling-point ; then skim carefully, and set 
 back where it will simmer for three hours. Season with 
 salt, and strain the broth. 
 
862 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 If the patient can take tapioca, sago, or rice, add a 
 table-spoonful of one of these articles to the broth when 
 it has been cooking for one hour. 
 
 * Cream-of-Rice Soup. 
 
 Use half a pint of chicken stock, half a pint of cream, 
 two table-spoonfuls of rice, and about a saltspoonful of 
 salt. 
 
 Wash the rice, and put it in a small stew-pan with the 
 stock. Cover closely, and put on the back part of the 
 range, where it will hardly bubble. Cook the mixture 
 for two hours, and at the end of that time rub it through 
 a fine sieve. Return it to the stew-pan, and add the 
 cream and salt. Place on the fire, and stir until it 
 begins to boil. Serve at once. 
 
 If the patient can bear it, a few drops of onion juice 
 and a tiny piece of celery may be added to the stock and 
 rice when they have been cooking for an hour and a 
 half. 
 
 Any good stock may be substituted for the chicken 
 stock. 
 
 Chicken Jelly. 
 
 Clean a fowl that is about a year old, and remove the 
 skin and fat. Disjoint the fowl, and put it into a stew- 
 pan with two quarts of cold water. Heat slowly, and 
 skim often and carefully. Simmer for six hours ; then 
 add one generous teaspoonful of salt, and strain through 
 a napkin. Set away to cool. When cold, skim off the 
 fat. The jelly is usually served cold, but may be heated 
 and served like soup. 
 
 Charlotte Cushman's Jelly. 
 
 Use a shin of beef weighing seven pounds (have the 
 butcher break it into small pieces), four calves' feet, 
 one gallon of water, one table-spoonful of salt, twenty 
 
FOOD FOR THE SICK. 863 
 
 pepper-corns, three cloves, a stick of cinnamon, and the 
 whites of two eggs. 
 
 Wash the calves' feet and shin of beef carefully. Put 
 the meat and water into a large stew-pan. Heat slowly 
 to the boiling-point, skimming carefully and frequently 
 in the first half-hour. Boil gently for eight hours ; then 
 strain through a fine sieve, and set away to cool. When 
 cold, skim off the fat, and put the jelly into a stew-pan 
 with the seasonings. Beat the whites of the eggs rather 
 light, and add to them half a cupful of cold water. Beat 
 well, and add to the contents of the stew-pan. Place 
 the stew-pan on the fire, and stir the mixture frequently 
 until it gets warm. Keep the pan on the hot part of the 
 stove until the contents begin to bubble ; then draw it 
 back immediately to a place where the jelly will keep 
 heated to the boiling-point for half an hour. When this 
 time has passed, strain the jelly through a napkin, and 
 pour it into tumblers. Cool, cover, and set away in a 
 cold place. It may be given to the patient cold, or be 
 heated and served like soup. 
 
 Heat a tumbler of this jelly ; add to it one table- 
 spoonful of lemon juice, one gill of port, and a generous 
 half-gill of sugar ; cool this liquid in little moulds, and 
 you have port wine jelly, which is very nutritious. Any 
 other kind of wine may be used, or, for a change, use 
 fruit juice instead of wine. 
 
 * Macaroni Soup. 
 
 Boil two sticks of macaroni in one pint of water for 
 half an hour. Drain it, and cut it into pieces half an 
 inch long. Put these in a small saucepan with one 
 tumbler of Charlotte Cushman jelly, and place on the 
 fire to heat. A teaspoonful of onion juice may be added 
 if the patient can bear it. 
 
 Rice, tapioca, sago, or barley may be cooked and added 
 in this way to the jelly.. 
 
864 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Rice Porridge. 
 
 Wash one table-spoonful of rice, and put it into a stew- 
 pan with a scant pint and a half of water, Boil for 
 fifteen minutes. Mix four table-spoonfuls of milk with 
 one of flour. Add this and half a pint of milk to the 
 rice, and cook for twenty minutes longer. Season with 
 salt, about a level teaspoonful. 
 
 * Cracker Gruel. 
 
 Four table-spoonfuls of powdered cracker, a scant half- 
 pint of boiling water, half a pint of milk, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt are used to make this gruel. Pour the 
 boiling water on the crackers. Add the milk and salt, 
 and stir the mixture until it boils up once. 
 
 * Graham Gruel. 
 
 Put a pint of boiling water into a saucepan, and place 
 on the fire. Mix four table-spoonfuls of cold water with 
 one of graham meal, and stir into the boiling water. 
 Cook for half an hour. When the mixture has been 
 simmering for twenty minutes, add a scant half-teaspoon- 
 ful of salt. Pour a gill of this gruel into a cup, and add 
 half a gill of cream or milk. Serve hot. 
 
 * Indian Meal Gruel. 
 
 Put one quart of boiling water into a stew-pan, and 
 place on the fire. Put into a bowl two table-spoonfuls 
 of Indian meal and one of flour. Add a gill of cold 
 water, and mix well. Stir this into the boiling water. 
 Stir the mixture well, and when it boils, set the stew- 
 pan back where the gruel will simmer for two hours. 
 Add half a teaspoonful of salt, and cook for half an hour 
 longer. Pour a gill of the gruel into a cup, and add half 
 a gill of cream or milk. Serve at once. 
 
FOOD FOR THE SICK. 865 
 
 * Oatmeal Gruel. 
 
 Put a quart of boiling water into a stew-pan, and place 
 on the fire. Sprinkle one generous table-spoonful of oat- 
 meal into the water. Stir the gruel well, and set it back 
 where it will simmer for two hours. Season with a 
 scant half-teaspoonful of salt. Strain or not, as may be 
 best for the patient. In any case put one gill of the hot 
 gruel into a delicate cup, and add half a gill of cream or 
 milk. 
 
 * Flour Gruel. 
 
 After putting one pint of milk into the double-boiler 
 and placing it on the fire, mix a gill of cold milk with 
 one table-spoonful of flour, and stir into the boiling milk. 
 Cook for twenty minutes. Season with a scant half- 
 teaspoonful of salt ; then strain, and serve hot. 
 
 When this gruel is desired more nutritious, add half a 
 cupful of raisins to the milk when it is put on to boil. 
 A slight grating of nutmeg may be added if the patient 
 desires. 
 
 * Arrowroot Gruel. 
 
 Mix one teaspoonful of arrowroot with two table- 
 spoonfuls of milk. Stir this mixture into half a pint of 
 boiling milk. Cook for ten minutes, stirring frequently. 
 Add half a saltspoonful of salt, and strain the gruel. 
 
 * Caudle. 
 
 Add half a gill of wine to any kind of plain gruel, 
 Buch as that made of flour, cracker, or arrowroot. The 
 wine must be added after the gruel is taken from the 
 fire. Stir it gradually into the hot gruel, and serve at 
 once. 
 
 *Wine Whey. 
 
 Put half a pint of sweet milk into the double-boiler. 
 When it boils, add a gill of sherry. Stir well, and let it 
 
 5 
 
866 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 cook until the curd and whey separate. If the wine be 
 quite sour, the milk will separate at once ; sometimes it is 
 so sweet that an extra quantity is required to curdle the 
 milk. If there be any objection to the use of more wine 
 in a case like this, add a teaspoonful of vinegar. Pour 
 the liquid through a fine strainer. 
 
 * Buttermilk or Sour Milk Whey. 
 
 Put one cupful of sweet milk into the double-boiler, 
 and place on the stove. When it boils, add one cupful of 
 buttermilk or sour milk. Stir for a minute. When the 
 clear whey separates from the milk, strain it. 
 
 * Vinegar Whey. 
 
 Stir two table-spoonfuls of vinegar into half a pint of 
 hot milk, and cook until the clear whey separates from 
 the milk ; then strain. 
 
 If the vinegar be very strong, one table-spoonful will 
 be enough. 
 
 * Cream-of-Tartar Whey. 
 
 Put one cupful of sweet milk in the double-boiler. 
 When it boils, add one level teaspoonful of cream-of- 
 tartar, and stir until the mixture forms a curd and whey. 
 Strain this, and cool the whey. This is a refreshing 
 drink for a fever patient. 
 
 * Lemon Whey. 
 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of lemon juice with half a 
 pint of hot milk. Cook until the clear whey separates 
 from the curd. Strain, and add one teaspoonful of 
 sugar. 
 
 * Tamarind Water. 
 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of preserved tamarind in a bowl. 
 Pour three gills of boiling water on the preserve. Stir 
 well, and let the liquid stand for ten minutes. Strain 
 and cool. 
 
FOOD FOR THE SICK. 867 
 
 * Currant Water. 
 
 When currant juice is at hand, use three table- 
 spoonfuls to half a glass of water. Sweeten slightly. A 
 teaspoonful of currant jelly dissolved in half a glass of 
 water makes a refreshing drink. 
 
 * Barley Water. 
 
 Wash two table-spoonfuls of pearl barley, and put it 
 into a saucepan with one pint and a half of cold water. 
 Simmer for two hours. Strain the water, and if it is to 
 be used without sweetening or flavor, add a grain of 
 salt. 
 
 A few lumps of sugar may be rubbed on the skin 
 of a lemon. If rubbed hard enough, they will break the 
 oil cells, the sugar absorbing the oil. Add this sugar 
 to the barley water, or flavor with the lemon juice and 
 some sugar. 
 
 *Rice Water. 
 
 Wash four table-spoonfuls of rice, and put it into a 
 saucepan with a pint and a half of cold water. Place 
 on the fire, and cook for half an hour. Season the liquid 
 with half a teaspoonful of salt ; then let it cool. 
 
 Another way is to use only half as much water. When 
 the rice has been cooking for half an hour, add three 
 gills of milk. Heat this to the boiling-point; then strain. 
 This is good in case of bowel trouble. 
 
 * Apple Water. 
 
 Bake two large tart apples until they are tender all 
 through. Sprinkle one table-spoonful of sugar over them, 
 and, returning them to the oven, cook them until the 
 sugar has browned slightly. Place the apples in a bowl, 
 and break them with a spoon. Pour a generous pint of 
 boiling water on them, and let them stand for an hour. 
 Strain and cool the liquid. 
 
868 MISS FARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Toast Water. 
 
 Toast slices of stale bread very slowly until they are 
 dry and slightly brown all through. Now hold the toast 
 near the fire until it is a rich brown. Break the toast 
 into small pieces, and put half a pint of it into a pitcher. 
 Pour over it a pint and a half of boiling water. Let the 
 mixture stand for ten minutes ; then strain. Cool the 
 water before giving it to the patient. 
 
 A word of caution : Do not use a particle of the bread 
 that is not thoroughly browned ; it will spoil the flavor 
 of the water. 
 
 * Crust Coffee. 
 
 Toast the crusts of graham or white bread until a very 
 dark brown. Break them into small pieces. Put half 
 a pint of the broken crusts into a pitcher, and pour a 
 pint and a half of boiling water over them. Cover the 
 pitcher, and let it stand for ten minutes ; then strain the 
 contents. 
 
 This drink is given to the patient cold or hot. Some- 
 times a little milk or cream is added to it. 
 
 * Flaxseed Lemonade. 
 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of flaxseed in a bowl or pitcher, 
 and pour over it one pint of boiling water. Steep, for 
 three hours, in a warm place. At the end of that time 
 strain the liquid, and add to it the juice of one lemon 
 and two table-spoonfuls of sugar. More sugar may be 
 used if liked. 
 
 This drink is soothing for colds. Should the lemonade 
 be too thick, add a little more water to it. 
 
 Mulled Wine. 
 
 Put into a bowl one inch of stick cinnamon, three 
 whole cloves, a slight grating of nutmeg, and half a cup- 
 ful of water. Cover the bowl, and, placing it in a sauce- 
 
FOOD FOR THE SICK. 869 
 
 pan of boiling water, cook the contents for ten minutes. 
 Put one cupful of port or claret and two table-spoonfuls 
 of sugar with this at the end of ten minutes. Cover the 
 bowl again, and continue boiling the water in the stew- 
 pan until the wine becomes hot, which will be in about 
 eight minutes. Strain, and give to the patient at once. 
 Or beat the white of an egg to a stiff froth, and then beat 
 the yolk into it. Pour the mulled wine on this, and beat 
 well. 
 
 Mulled wine is excellent when the patient requires a 
 warm stimulating drink. It is particularly valuable for 
 a patient that has been chilled. 
 
 *Egg Tea. 
 
 Beat the white of an egg to a stiff froth. Beat into 
 this a scant table-spoonful of sugar and the yolk of the 
 egg. Gradually add half a cupful of hot water or hot 
 milk, beating all the time the hot liquid is poured. A 
 little nutmeg, if liked, may be added. 
 
 *Egg Nog. 
 
 Beat the white of an egg to a stiff, dry froth. Beat 
 into this one table-spoonful of sugar. Next beat in the 
 yolk of the egg and a table-spoonful of brandy. Add a 
 gill and a half of sweet milk and a slight grating of 
 nutmeg. Pour into a tumbler, and serve at once. 
 
 A table-spoonful of rum or wine may be substituted 
 for the brandy. 
 
 *Milk Punch. 
 
 Put into a bowl three gills of sweet milk, two table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, and two of rum, brandy, or whiskey. 
 'Stir well. Pour this mixture from one bowl to another 
 to froth it. Hold the bowl high as you pour the liquid. 
 When it is frothed, pour it into a tumbler and serve it 
 to the patient. 
 
870 MISS PARLOA*S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Lemon Moss. A Drink for the Lungs. 
 
 Put one teaspoonful of sea-moss farina in a bowl. 
 Gradually pour on it half a pint of boiling water, stirring 
 all the time. Steep for half an hour. Add two table- 
 spoonfuls of lemon juice, a generous table-spoonful of 
 sugar, and a grain of salt. Strain, and use hot or cold. 
 
 * Koumiss. 
 
 In making koumiss there will be required strong bot- 
 tles (either champagne or beer bottles are strong enough), 
 pure, sweet milk, and good yeast (either brewer's or 
 home-made). If it be inconvenient to obtain liquid 
 yeast, compressed yeast will do. 
 
 Put nearly a quart of milk into a quart bottle. Put 
 one table-spoonful of sugar and one of water into a small 
 saucepan, and place on the fire. Boil for one minute. 
 Add this syrup and a table-spoonful of yeast to the 
 milk in the bottle. Shake well, and after filling up the 
 bottle with milk, shake again. 
 
 Have ready a fresh cork that has been soaked in hot 
 water for an hour or more. Press it into the bottle, and 
 tie down with strong twine. Place the bottle in the 
 refrigerator, and let it stand for three or four days. 
 Draw off the contents through a champagne tap. If 
 there be no tap, remove the cork very carefully, because 
 the koumiss is effervescent. 
 
 Should there be any curdled particles in the bottle of 
 koumiss do not give the drink to the patient. It can be 
 used instead in cooking wherever sour milk would be 
 used. 
 
 If compressed yeast be employed in making koumiss, 
 use about one-fifth of a cake, and dissolve it thoroughly 
 in a table-spoonful of water. 
 
 This drink will keep for months if the bottles be 
 placed on their sides in a dark, cool cellar or in the 
 refrigerator. 
 
FOOD FOR THE SICK. 871 
 
 * Cream Toast. 
 
 Put a gill and a half of cream into a saucepan, and 
 place on the fire to heat, but do not let it boil. Toast 
 two slices of bread, and cut them in strips. Stir half a 
 saltspoonful of salt into the hot cream, and lay the 
 strips of toast in the cream for two minutes. Place them 
 in a warm dish, and serve. 
 
 * Milk Toast. 
 
 Toast two slices of bread a delicate brown. Put one 
 gill of milk on the fire in a small saucepan. Mix one 
 teaspoonful of flour with half a gill of cold milk. Stir 
 this into the boiling milk, and simmer for ten minutes. 
 Add half a saltspoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of 
 butter. 
 
 Cut the toast into six strips. Put these strips into 
 the prepared milk. Let them stand for two minutes ; 
 then lay them in a small dish or a pretty saucer, pour the 
 cream over them, and serve at once. 
 
 * Water Toast. 
 
 Toast two slices of bread a rich brown. Put one cup- 
 ful of boiling water and a teaspoonful of salt in a soup- 
 plate. Dip the slices of bread into the liquid, removing 
 them at once. Spread lightly with butter, and serve 
 immediately. 
 
 * Graham Wafers. 
 
 Use a cupful of graham meal, one cupful and a third 
 of boiling water, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Mix the 
 meal and salt, and gradually pour the boiling water on 
 the mixture. Beat thoroughly, and cool. Butter slightly 
 the bottoms of two or more baking-pans. Spread the 
 mixture, as thin as possible, in the pans, and bake in a 
 moderate oven until brown. 
 
872 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Tapioca Pudding. 
 
 Soak one-fourth of a cupful of tapioca in half a cupful 
 of cold water for five hours. Add half a cupful of cold 
 milk and about one-third of a saltspoonful of salt. Cook 
 for half an hour. Serve with sugar and cream. 
 
 * Tapioca Jelly. 
 
 Soak one-fourth of a cupful of tapioca in half a cupful 
 of cold water for five hours. Add a cupful of boiling 
 water, and cook until the liquid is perfectly clear j then 
 add a very small quantity of salt, a teaspoonful of lemon 
 juice, and a generous table-spoonful of sugar. Turn into 
 a mould, and set away to harden. 
 
 Sugar and cream may be served with this jelly. 
 
 * Exotique Jelly. 
 
 Sprinkle two table-spoonfuls of " Tapioca Exotique " 
 into half a pint of boiling water. Cook for five minutes, 
 stirring all the time. Now add two table-spoonfuls of 
 sugar and two table-spoonfuls of lemon juice. Wet two 
 small cups with cold water, and pour the jelly into them. 
 Set away to cool. 
 
 Orange, currant, strawberry, or raspberry juice may be 
 substituted for lemon juice. 
 
 * Exotique Pudding. 
 
 Put half a pint of milk in a stew-pan, and place on the 
 fire where it will heat slowly. When the milk begins 
 to boil, sprinkle into it two table-spoonfuls of " Tapioca 
 Exotique," stirring all the while. Stir until the pudding 
 is smooth ; then add half a saltspoonful of salt, and beat 
 well. Cook five minutes longer, and serve with sugar 
 and cream. 
 
FOOD FOR THE SICK. 873 
 
 * Blanc-mange. 
 
 Reserve four table-spoonfuls from half a pint of milk, 
 and heat the remainder to the boiling-point. Mix the 
 cold milk with a table-spoonful of arrowroot, and stir 
 the mixture into the boiling milk. Add a small quantity 
 of salt, and cook for fifteen minutes ; then add a table- 
 spoonful of sugar, and enough lemon extract or wine to 
 suit your taste. Turn into a mould, and set away to 
 harden. Serve with cream and sugar. 
 
 Restorative Jelly. 
 
 Use half a box of gelatine, one table-spoonful of gran- 
 ulated gum-arabic, three table-spoonfuls of sugar, two 
 table-spoonfuls of lemon juice, two cloves, and half a 
 pint of port. Soak all the ingredients in a bowl for two 
 hours. At the end of that time place the bowl in a 
 saucepan of boiling water, and cook, stirring frequently, 
 until all the ingredients are dissolved. Strain, and set 
 away to harden. 
 
 The bowl must be kept covered all the time the jelly is 
 soaking and cooking. 
 
 This jelly is to be used when the patient finds it diffi- 
 cult to swallow either liquid or solid food. A small 
 piece of it, placed in the mouth, melts slowly, and is 
 swallowed unconsciously. 
 
 The sugar may be omitted, and a gill of port and a 
 gill of beef juice be used, the beef juice to be added when 
 the jelly is taken from the fire. Any kind of stimulant 
 may be used instead of port. 
 
 *Soft Custard. 
 
 Use half a pint of milk, one egg, one generous tea- 
 spoonful of sugar, and one-fourth of a teaspoonful of 
 arrowroot. 
 
 Mix the arrowroot with one table-spoonful of cold 
 milk. Put the remainder of the milk in a small sauce- 
 
874 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 pan, which should be placed in another pan and sur- 
 rounded with hot water. Place on the fire. When the 
 milk boils, stir in the arrowroot, and cook for five min- 
 utes ; then add the sugar and egg, beaten well together. 
 Stir for two minutes. Add the salt, and take the pan 
 from the fire. Flavor the custard to suit the taste. A 
 few drops of any kind of extract may be used; or a 
 teaspoonful of chocolate, dissolved in a table-spoonful of 
 hot milk will give a pleasant flavor. If coffee be liked, 
 use a teaspoonful of strong coffee. 
 
 Two eggs may be used for this custard. In that case 
 omit the arrowroot, and add two table-spoonfuls of cold 
 milk to the beaten eggs and sugar before adding the hot 
 milk. 
 
 Ice-cream. 
 
 For a quart of ice-cream use half a pint of milk, 
 one pint of cream (not too rich), a scant half-cupful of 
 sugar, one teaspoonful of arrowroot, and flavor to suit 
 the taste. 
 
 Mix the arrowroot with two table-spoonfuls of cold 
 milk. Put the rest of the milk into the double-boiler, 
 and place on the fire. When it boils, stir the arrowroot 
 into it, and cook for ten minutes. Add the sugar, and 
 set away to cool. When cold, add the cream and flavor. 
 If lemon, orange, or vanilla extract be used, half a tea- 
 spoonful will give the right flavor ; or one table-spoonful 
 of chocolate, dissolved in the boiling milk, will give a 
 good flavor. 
 
 Pack a small tin pail in salt and ice, using three cup- 
 f uls of salt and as much ice as may be needed for packing 
 the pail firmly. Wipe the inside of the pail, to be sure 
 that no salt shall be in it. Put the cream into the pail, 
 and let it stand for about ten or fifteen minutes. At the 
 end of that time take off the cover and scrape the con- 
 gealed cream from the sides. Beat well, and put the 
 cover back. Do this every five minutes until the cream 
 
FOOD FOR THE SICK. 875 
 
 is smooth and thick ; then cover the pail, and let it stand 
 until the patient wants the cream. 
 
 This ice-cream will keep for twelve hours in cool 
 weather, without repacking. In hot weather the water 
 will have to be drawn off, and more salt and ice added. 
 If a small freezer be at hand, the work will be much 
 easier than if a pail be used. 
 
 The amount of sugar given is less than is used for ice- 
 cream when made for the table, and yet may be too much 
 for some patients. 
 
 Orange Sherbet. 
 
 Mix together two gills of orange juice, two table- 
 spoonfuls of lemon juice, one gill and a half of sugar, 
 and one pint of cold water. Strain, and freeze the same 
 as ice-cream. 
 
 Lemon Sherbet. 
 
 Mix one gill of lemon juice, a gill and a half of sugar, 
 and one pint of water. Strain and freeze. 
 
 Any kind of fruit juice may be sweetened, diluted 
 with water, and frozen. 
 
 * Oatmeal Mush. 
 
 Put one cupful of boiling water into a small stew-pan. 
 Stir into it one-fourth of a cupful of oatmeal, sprinkling 
 in a little at a time. Add one-fourth of a teaspoonful of 
 salt. Stir three times in the first ten minutes that the 
 mush is cooking ; then put the stew-pan back where the 
 mush will just bubble for two hours. Serve with cream 
 or milk. 
 
 If the steamed oatmeal be used, half an hour's cooking 
 will be sufficient. 
 
 The mush must not be stirred after the first ten 
 minutes. 
 
876 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 * Burnt Brandy. 
 
 In giving brandy to a patient it is sometimes necessary 
 to mellow it, and eliminate the greater part of the alcohol. 
 This is done by burning the liquor. Put the brandy in 
 a warm deep plate, and place on top of the stove for a 
 few minutes. Light a match, and when the sulphur has 
 burned off, touch the match to the warm brandy, which 
 will blaze until the alcohol is exhausted. 
 
 A Simple Cure for Indigestion and Constipation. 
 
 After each meal slowly masticate three pinches of 
 wheat bran. This is a very effective remedy if faith 
 fully tried. 
 
 
 
WHAT ALL HOUSEKEEPERS SHOULD KNOW. 877 
 
 WHAT ALL HOUSEKEEPERS 
 SHOULD KNOW. 
 
 
 Equivalents of Weights in Measure. 
 
 One rounded table-spoonful of butter One ounce. 
 
 One rounded table-spoonful of granulated sugar . . . One ounce. 
 
 One heaping table-spoonful of powdered sugar .... One ounce. 
 
 Two rounded table-spoonfuls of flour One ounce. 
 
 Two rounded table-spoonfuls of ground spice .... One ounce. 
 
 Five medium-sized nutmegs One ounce. 
 
 One quart of sifted pastry flour One pound. 
 
 One quart of sifted new- process flour, less one gill . . . One pound. 
 
 One pint of granulated sugar One pound. 
 
 One pint of butter One pound. 
 
 One pint of ordinary liquid One pound. 
 
 One solid pint of chopped meat One pound. 
 
 One cupful of rice Half a pound. 
 
 One cupful of Indian meal Six ounces. 
 
 One cupful of stemmed raisins Six ounces. 
 
 One cupful of cleaned and dried English currants . . . Six ounces. 
 
 One cupful of grated bread crumbs Two ounces. 
 
 How to Measure Fractions of a Cupful. 
 
 When dividing a receipt in order to make a small 
 quantity of something, it is frequently difficult to learn 
 the fractional parts of a cupful. In such cases the fol- 
 lowing table will be helpful. The cup used is supposed 
 to hold half a pint. 
 
 Eight rounding table-spoonfuls of flour One cupful. 
 
 Eight rounding table-spoonfuls of sugar One cupful. 
 
 Eight rounding table-spoonfuls of butter , , . , , One cupful. 
 
878 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Sixteen table-spoonfuls of liquid One cupful. 
 
 Two gills One cupful. 
 
 A common tumblerful One cupful. 
 
 Points about the Use of the Oven. 
 
 Almost every oven has some peculiarity which the 
 cook must understand before she will be sure of results. 
 The question is often asked, " Where should the baking 
 be done, on the bottom of the oven or on the grate ? " 
 The answer is, that it depends wholly upon the oven. 
 In a set range, where the ovens are on each side of the 
 tire, it will generally be found that the baking should be 
 done on the bottom of the oven. Where the ovens are 
 above the fire, most. of the baking must be done on a 
 grate that is raised several inches from the bottom of 
 the oven. In portable ranges and stoves the baking is 
 nearly always done on the bottom of the oven. 
 
 In baking bread or rolls, put a saucepan of boiling 
 water into the oven. The steam will keep the crust 
 smooth and tender. 
 
 Much of the heavy cake and bread is the result of the 
 oven door being banged when closed. Close the door as 
 gently as possible. Nearly every one opens it gently 
 enough. 
 
 Good Tests of Oven Heat when Baking. 
 
 By using the following tests one may be reasonably 
 sure of getting the proper heat for the various kinds of 
 baking : 
 
 For sponge cake and pound cake have heat that will 
 in five minutes turn a piece of white paper light yellow. 
 
 For all other kinds of cup cake use an oven that will 
 in five minutes turn a piece of white paper dark yellow. 
 
 For bread and pastry have an oven that will in five 
 minutes turn a piece of paper dark brown. 
 
 When the oven is too hot at first, a crust forms on the 
 bread or cake, which prevents its rising. . It is better, 
 
WHAT ALL HOUSEKEEPERS SHOULD KNOW. 879 
 
 when baking bread and cake, to have the" oven a little 
 slow at first, and increase the heat in a little while. 
 
 In baking puff paste the heat should be great at first 
 and decreased later. This is to keep the paste in shape. 
 
 When the oven is too hot, the temperature may be re- 
 duced by putting a pan of cold water iu the oven. 
 
 When baking in an oven that is too hot at the top, 
 fill with cold water a dripping-pan about an inch deep, 
 and place it on the top grate of the oven. On the con- 
 trary, should the oven be too hot on the bottom, put a 
 grate under the article that is to be baked. 
 
 Biscuit made with an acid and an alkali, such as 
 baking-powder, soda, and cream -of-tartar, or soda and 
 sour milk, should be baked in a very hot oven. The 
 hotter it can be, and yet not burn the biscuit, the better. 
 An oven that will color a piece of white paper dark 
 brown in one minute will be none too hot for this kind 
 of biscuit. 
 
 Muffins that contain no substance for making them 
 light, except the air that is beaten into them, should 
 have an oven nearly as hot as for cream-of-tartar biscuit. 
 Muffins that are made with soda and cream-of-tartar, 
 baking-powder, or some other acid and alkali, should be 
 baked in an oven that will color a piece of white paper 
 dark brown in four minutes. 
 
 How to Make a Paste or Batter of Flour and 
 a Liquid. 
 
 One of the things commonly done wrong is the mix- 
 ing of flour and a liquid when a thin batter or paste 
 is desired. It may seem to be a small matter, but 
 in the aggregate it causes a world of trouble and un- 
 necessary labor in the kitchen. If this simple rule be 
 followed, the mixture will always be smooth and free of 
 lumps : 
 
 Measure the flour, and add to it an equal measure of 
 
880 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 liquid. Stir together until smooth ; then gradually add 
 a part of the liquid until the mixture is thin enough. 
 
 In making a thickening for soups or sauces there 
 should be four or five times as much liquid as there is 
 flour. 
 
 The Way to Add Thickening to a Boiling 
 Liquid. 
 
 If a thickening made of flour or any kind of starch 
 and a cold liquid be poured, without stirring, into the 
 hot liquid, it falls to the bottom of the dish, and some of 
 it cooks in lumps before the liquid is stirred. Sauces 
 and soups frequently are spoiled in this manner by being 
 made too thin and lumpy. To add thickening properly, 
 hold the bowl which contains the thickening mixture in 
 the left hand. Put .a long-handled spoon in the boiling 
 liquid, and begin to stir from the bottom ; then gradually 
 pour in the thickening, stirring all the while. This will 
 give a smooth sauce or soup. 
 
 If the liquid is to be thickened with flour and butter, 
 the treatment is different. Beat the butter to a cream, 
 and then beat in the flour. If there be twice as much 
 butter as flour, stir it all in at once, and continue stir- 
 ring until it is all dissolved ; but if there be more flour 
 than butter, gradually pour on this enough boiling liquid 
 to make a very thin substance. Stir this into the re- 
 mainder of the liquid. 
 
 When yolks of eggs are used for thickening a soup or 
 sauce, beat them well ; then add a gill of cold liquid to 
 every two yolks. Stir it into the hot liquid, and stir all 
 the time the dish is on the fire, which should never be 
 more than a minute. 
 
 About Stirring and Beating. 
 
 Many dishes are spoiled because the difference between 
 stirring and beating is not understood. 
 
WHAT ALL HOUSEKEEPERS SHOULD KNOW. 881 
 
 In stirring, the object is to combine the ingredients, or 
 to make a substance smooth. The spoon is kept rather 
 close to the bottom and sides of the bowl or saucepan, 
 and is worked round and round in the mixture until the 
 object is attained. 
 
 Beating is employed for two purposes : first, to break 
 up a substance, as in beating eggs for breading or for cus- 
 tards ; second, for making a substance light by imprison- 
 ing air in it. This is the case when we beat the whites 
 of eggs, batters, cake, etc. The movement is very differ- 
 ent from stirring. The spoon or whisk at every stroke is 
 partially lifted from the bowl, and brings with it a por- 
 tion of the materials that are being beaten, which carries 
 air with it in falling back. It is not the number of 
 strokes that makes substances light, but rather the vigor 
 and rapidity with which the beating is done. This is 
 the reason why so many people can say that they have 
 better luck in making cake when they are in a hurry. 
 It is not " luck," but the sure result of beating so rapidly 
 that a large amount of air is imprisoned in the eggs 
 and the .batter. This air expands in the heat, and, every- 
 thing else being favorable, a light cake or muffin is the 
 result. 
 
 So essential is air to all forms of 'tread, cake, pastry, 
 and many kinds of dessert, that every cook should learn 
 how to beat in the easiest and most effectual manner. 
 
 When using a spoon or whisk for beating, take long- 
 upward strokes, the more rapid the better. The spoon 
 should touch the bottom of the bowl each time, and the 
 motion must be regular. 
 
 Another way to beat is to use a circular motion. In 
 this case the side of the spoon is kept close to the side 
 of the bowl. The spoon is moved rapidly in a circle, 
 carrying with it a portion of the ingredients. This kind 
 of beating can be applied only to a rather thick mixture. 
 It is the best method for beating butter and sugar to a 
 cream. 
 
882 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 How to Cream Butter. 
 
 If the butter be firm, the inside of the bowl in which it 
 is to be creamed must be warmed. Measure the butter. 
 Pour hot water into the bowl, and let it stand for about 
 one minute ; then pour it out, and wipe the bowl. Put 
 in the butter, and cut it into small pieces. Work it on 
 the bottom of the bowl until it becomes soft ; then beat 
 it until it is light and smooth by rapidly moving the 
 spoon in a circle. In about two minutes it will be a 
 light, creamy mass, and be ready for the addition of any 
 other ingredient, as sugar or flour. If sugar is to be 
 added, beat in only a little at a time. The work can be 
 done more quickly and with less outlay of strength than 
 if all the sugar were added at once. 
 
 Caution. Do not let the hot water stand long enough 
 in the bowl for the outside to get heated. The object is 
 to heat it only enough to soften the butter so that the 
 latter can be beaten to a cream. It should never be so 
 hot as to melt the butter. If the work be properly done, 
 the bowl will be cool by the time the butter is soft. 
 
 Butter should be prepared in this manner for cake and 
 pudding sauces. 
 
 How to Wash Butter for Greasing Pans. 
 
 Rinse a bowl in boiling water, and then in cold water. 
 Put a piece of butter into the bowl, and after covering it 
 with cold water, work it with a spoon or with the hands 
 until all the salt has been washed out. Pour off the 
 water, and press out any particles that may remain in 
 the butter. Use this butter for buttering cake and bread 
 pans. 
 
 How to Use Butter-hands. 
 
 Butter-hands are small grooved wooden paddles. The 
 grooves may be coarse or fine ; the fine ones make the 
 prettiest forms. An illustration is given on page 53. 
 
WHAT ALL HOUSEKEEPERS SHOULD KNOW. 883 
 
 Let the hands stand in boiling water for five minutes. 
 Next put them in cold water for five minutes or longer ; 
 they must be perfectly cold when used. Have a large 
 bowl half full of cold water; in hot weather have a little 
 ice in the water. Cut some firm butter into pieces about 
 the size of a hickory nut. Koll these pieces between the 
 butter-hands into any shape you please. They may be 
 
 Method of Using Butter-hands. 
 
 made into grooved balls, little pineapples, scrolls, etc. 
 Dip the hands frequently into the ice- water. Lay the 
 pats on a large dish, and when all are done put them in 
 the refrigerator. 
 
 These little pieces of butter may be arranged on a flat 
 dish, and garnished with a few sprigs of parsley. In 
 hot weather they may be served on a bed of broken ice. 
 
 How to Make Vegetable Balls. 
 
 Much of the beauty of a dish served a la jardiniere 
 depends upon the manner in which the vegetables are 
 cut. They may be cut into dice, and a good effect be 
 produced if the cutting be regular. Little vegetable- 
 scoops and fluted knives make it possible to produce 
 very attractive forms and combinations. The scoops 
 
884 
 
 MISS PAELOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 come in several sizes, and balls can be made from the 
 size of a large pea to that of a hickory nut. The large 
 scoops are chiefly used for potato balls when the balls 
 are to be served alone, either boiled, fried, or sauted. 
 The small scoops are for all kinds of vegetables when 
 
 they are used as a 
 
 garnish in soups and 
 
 entrees. 
 The vegetables must 
 
 be pared carefully, 
 
 T , the surface being kept 
 
 Vegetable-scoops. 
 
 smooth and rounded. 
 
 Put them in cold water as fast as they are pared. When 
 all are ready, begin making the balls. Take the vege- 
 table in the left hand, and the scoop in the right. Select 
 the most rounding part of the vegetable, and press the 
 scoop into it. Work the scoop with a twisting motion 
 until it is nearly buried in the vegetable. Now turn the 
 scoop to the right, and then to the left, and the piece of 
 
 How to Make Vegetable Balls. 
 
 vegetable will come out perfectly round. Drop the balls 
 in a bowl of cold water. When all the pieces possible 
 have been taken from the vegetable, drop what remains 
 in cold water, it can be used for stews or soups, or it 
 may be boiled and mashed. 
 
WHAT ALL HOUSEKEEPERS SHOULD KNOW. 885 
 
 How and "When to Serve Olives. 
 
 The most attractive way to serve oli\res is to drain 
 them, and then place them on a bed of broken ice in a 
 small fancy dish. Olives are served at luncheons, din- 
 ners, and suppers. They are usually placed on the table 
 at the beginning of the meal, and remain to the end. 
 
 How to Serve Sardines. 
 
 For serving sardines small covered dishes come in 
 pretty designs and various qualities of china; but if 
 one lack such dishes, any small fancy dishes will answer 
 the purpose. Drain the oil from the fish, and place them 
 in the dish. Cover them with fresh olive oil or not, as 
 you please. Tastes differ as to serving them with or 
 without the fresh oil. Place a dish of quartered lemons 
 near the sardines. 
 
 How to Butter and Roll Bread. 
 
 Cut off all the crust of a loaf of fresh bread. Spread 
 a thin layer of butter on one end of the loaf. Cut off 
 this buttered end in as thin a slice as possible. Koll up 
 this slice, having the buttered side inward, and lay it on 
 i napkin. Continue buttering and making the rolls until 
 nearly all the loaf has been used. Draw the napkin 
 firmly around the rolled bread, and pin it. Put it in a 
 cold place for several hours. Rolled bread is nice to serve 
 with raw oysters, or at a supper or a luncheon party. 
 
 How to Make and Bake a M6ringue. 
 
 Meringues are used constantly on pies, puddings, and 
 various dishes for dessert, and yet not one cook in a 
 hundred is ever sure of the result. 
 
 Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff, dry froth. Take 
 out the beater, and with a silver spoon beat in powdered, 
 sugar. Sprinkle a small quantity of sugar on the egg, 
 
886 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 and beat it in with the spoon, taking long upward strokes. 
 Continue this until all the sugar has been beaten in ; 
 then add the flavor, if there be any. This also must be 
 beaten in. When done, the meringue should be light, 
 firm, and comparatively dry. Use one table-spoonful of 
 sugar to each white of an egg. 
 
 Always bake a me'ringue in a cool oven. If it be 
 cooked for twenty minutes with the oven door open, it 
 will be firm and fine-grained. Let it cool rather slowly. 
 If a sugary crust be liked, sift powdered sugar over it 
 before it is placed in the oven. Should the me'ringue be 
 not brown enough at the end of twenty minutes, close 
 the oven door for a few minutes. Watch carefully to 
 prevent it from cooking too much. 
 
 The principal causes of failure are, that the sugar is 
 stirred into the white of the egg, which results in a 
 heavy watery mixture, or that the meringue is baked 
 in a hot oven. Too great heat causes the me'ringuc to 
 rise and then fall, making it tough and thin. 
 
 How to Grate Bread Crumbs. 
 
 These crumbs are used in making dressing for poultry, 
 and with all escaloped dishes. The bread should be 
 stale, but not dry. Baker's or home-made bread may be 
 used. A five-cent loaf of baker's bread will make about 
 two quarts of crumbs. 
 
 Cut the loaf in the middle, lengthwise. Cut these two 
 pieces in halves, thus getting four pieces with one side 
 crust and the other crumb. Hold a coarse grater over a 
 large platter. Grate the bread on this, having the crumb 
 side on the grater. Use very little pressure until nearing 
 the crust, when a good deal of pressure will be required. 
 The brown crust which cannot be grated should be dried, 
 pounded, and sifted. 
 
 If in grating the crumb side of the loaf much pres- 
 sure be used, the crumbs will be coarse and heavy. By 
 
WHAT ALL HOUSEKEEPERS SHOULD KNOW. 887 
 
 rubbing lightly on the grater, quite fresh bread may be 
 grated very satisfactorily. Kemeraber that grated crumbs 
 are used for escaloped dishes and dressing, and dried 
 crumbs for breading. 
 
 How to Dry Bread Crumbs. 
 
 All the crusts and pieces of yeast bread should be 
 saved. Do not wait for a large quantity to accumulate. 
 The bread-box should be wiped out every morning, and 
 all pieces not intended for the table or other purposes 
 should be spread in a pan, and the pan be placed in a 
 warm oven or on a shelf over the range. When they 
 become so dry that they will crumble between the fingers, 
 put them into a bag made of strong cloth or ticking. 
 With a wooden mallet, pound the bread until it is re- 
 duced to fine crumbs. Sift these crumbs, and put them 
 away in boxes or glass jars. They will always be ready 
 for breading purposes. It is only a little work to do this 
 in leisure moments. 
 
 How to Fry Crumbs. 
 
 Fried crumbs are used with small and large birds and 
 with some kinds of soup. To prepare them, dry pieces 
 of bread until they will crumble between the fingers. 
 Place the bread on a board, and crush lightly with a 
 rolling-pin. Most of the crumbs should be so coarse 
 that they will not pass through a flour-sieve. Put all in 
 a sieve, and shake the fine ones through (they may be 
 saved for breading or for a bread sauce). Measure the 
 coarse crumbs, and for each cupful put into a frying-pan 
 two level table-spoonfuls of butter. Place the pan on 
 the fire, and when the butter becomes hot, add the 
 crumbs. Stir over the fire constantly until the crumbs 
 are brown and crisp. 
 
 Baker's bread is the best for these crumbs. 
 
888 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 About Breading Articles for Frying. 
 
 Tliis is a simple operation, but it is rarely well done. 
 A little care is all that is required for a perfect result. 
 The crumbs should be dry and fine. Either bread or 
 cracker may be used, but in most cases the bread crumbs 
 are the best. 
 
 Put the egg in a deep plate, and beat it thoroughly 
 with a spoon, but not enough to make it light. Have the 
 crumbs in another plate, or they may be spread in a thick 
 bed on a board. Have the article that is to be breaded 
 seasoned well with salt, and slightly with pepper, if the 
 latter be used at all. Put the article in the egg, and 
 with a table-spoon dip up and pour the egg over every 
 part of it. Not a spot should escape the coating. Take 
 the article from the egg, and roll it in the dried crumbs, 
 being careful that every part is covered. Lay the 
 breaded food on a flat dish or on the board, until dry. 
 
 Never place one breaded article on another when 
 drying or frying. When ready to fry, shake off the 
 loose crumbs. Place in the wire basket, being careful 
 not to crowd. Fish, meat, croquettes, etc., when dry 
 after breading, can be placed in the refrigerator until the 
 time for frying. They will keep for twelve hours or 
 longer. 
 
 Sometimes a very thick crust is desired on some kinds 
 of food. In that case bread all the articles, and when 
 they are dry, give them a second coat of egg and 
 crumbs. 
 
 How to Dissolve Gelatine. 
 
 If gelatine be covered with water and placed on the 
 hearth or on the back of the stove, it will melt in fifteen 
 or twenty minutes ; but in nine cases out of ten it will be 
 strong-flavored, and will spoil whatever it is added to. 
 This is the reason that gelatine is not fully appreciated 
 by many housekeepers. If the gelatine be soaked in 
 
WHAT ALL HOUSEKEEPERS SHOULD KNOW. 889 
 
 cold water for two or more hours, and then have boiling 
 water or milk poured on it, it will dissolve immediately, 
 and rarely will have taste or odor. Here is a good rule : 
 Put a box of gelatine in a bowl, and pour over it half a 
 pint of cold water. Cover it, and let it stand for two 
 hours or more. When ready to use it, add half a pint of 
 boiling water, or the same quantity of boiling milk if 
 milk is to be used. Stir for a few minutes, and the 
 gelatine will be dissolved. 
 
 How to Flavor Sugar. 
 
 it a housekeeper does not like to use extracts, she 
 may prepare flavored sugars and have them for use when 
 it is not convenient to obtain the fresh fruit. These 
 sugars must be put into bottles and tightly corked. Self- 
 sealing jars are excellent for this purpose. 
 
 How to Make Various Kinds of Sugar. 
 
 Orange Sugar. Cut off the thin yellow rind of twelve 
 oranges. Spread this on a platter, and put in a warm, 
 dry place to dry. When it is dry, which will be in about 
 forty-eight hours, put half of it in a mortar with one 
 cupful of granulated sugar. Pound the mixture to a 
 powder, and then rub it through a fine sieve. If there 
 should be some coarse particles left in the sieve, return 
 them to the mortar and pound again. When all are 
 done, put the second half of the peel and a cupful of 
 sugar in the mortar, and proceed as before. A table- 
 spoonful of this will flavor a quart of custard or cream. 
 
 Orange Zest. This is another form of orange sugar. 
 Only the oily particles of the orange peel are added to 
 the sugar. Rub lumps of loaf sugar on the outside of 
 an orange until they are coated with the oil from the 
 peel; a good deal of pressure must be used to break 
 the oil vessels. Pound this sugar in the mortar, and 
 
890 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 bottle for use. Leinon zest is made in the same 
 manner. 
 
 Lemon Sugar. Make the lemon sugar the same as 
 the orange. 
 
 Orange Flower Sugar. Put one cupful of orange petals 
 in a mortar with one cupful of granulated sugar. Pound 
 to a powder, and rub through a sieve. Dry in a warm 
 oven, and bottle for use. Or the orange flowers may be 
 dried before being pounded, and then the sugar may be 
 bottled at once. 
 
 Rose Sugar. Spread rose leaves on a flat dish, and 
 dry them in a warm oven. Put one pint of the dried 
 leaves in the mortar, with half a pint of granulated 
 sugar. Pound to a powder; rub through a sieve, and 
 bottle. 
 
 Vanilla Sugar. Cut one ounce of the vanilla bean 
 into small pieces. Mix these with half a pint of granu- 
 lated sugar, and pound to a powder in a mortar. Eub 
 through a fine sieve ; return the coarse particles to the 
 mortar, and pound again. 
 
 Some of the vanilla bean will be too coarse to go 
 through the sieve after the second pounding. Bottle this 
 separately, and use it to flavor boiled custards. 
 
 How to Make Caramel. 
 
 Put any amount of sugar desired in a frying-pan or a 
 granite-ware saucepan. Stir over the fire until the sugar 
 dissolves and turns brown. Now add hot water equal 
 in quantity to the sugar, and let the mixture simmer 
 until all the sugar is dissolved. The sugar becomes per- 
 fectly liquid when stirred over a hot fire; but as soon 
 as the water, or any other liquid, is added, it hardens. 
 If it be allowed to simmer for about fifteen minutes, the 
 sugar dissolves again, and a clear syrup is formed. If 
 the syrup be desired thick, in order that the caramel 
 may be used for seasoning a mousse, or for coloring 
 
WHAT ALL HOUSEKEEPERS SHOULD KNOW. 891 
 
 soups or sauces, the syrup may be allowed to simmer for 
 half an hour or more. 
 
 When the caramel is intended for a flavor for desserts 
 or pudding sauces, the sugar should be stirred until it 
 begins to show bubbles and to smoke. It must then be 
 taken from the fire instantly, if a delicate flavor be 
 desired; but if a strong flavor be liked, stir for about 
 one-quarter of a minute longer. 
 
 When the,, caramel is to be used to color soups or 
 sauces, however, the cooking should continue for about 
 a minute after the sugar begins to boil. 
 
 When the water is added to the sugar, it should be 
 poured from a long-handled dipper, or there will be 
 danger of the hot sugar and water spattering on to the 
 hands. 
 
 When caramel is used for coloring soups and sauces, 
 add only a few drops at a time, as it spoils a delicate 
 soup to add a drop too much. One of the safest and 
 most satisfactory colorings for soups and sauces is 
 Madame Perrin's Pate Fra^aise. This French paste 
 comes in small tin boxes, each containing twenty-five 
 little caramels. One caramel dissolved in two quarts 
 of soup will give it a rich brown color, or a small piece 
 of a caramel will give just the bit of color that a sauce 
 may lack. The boxes cost twenty-five cents apiece. 
 This paste is for sale at Lidgerwood's, corner of Broad- 
 way and Thirteenth Street, New York. In Boston it 
 may be obtained of S. S. Pierce & Co., or of Raymond 
 & Fox, both on Tremont Street. 
 
 How to Get Onion Juice. 
 
 Pare an onion, and cut it into four pieces. Put one or 
 two of these pieces in a wooden lemon-squeezer, and 
 squeeze hard. One large juicy onion will yield two 
 table-spoonfuls of juice. Of course, if only a teaspoon- 
 ful of juice be required, only one-quarter of the onion 
 
892 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 need be squeezed. The lemon-squeezer must not be used 
 for anything else. If one has not an extra squeezer for 
 this purpose, the juice may be obtained by pressing the 
 onion on a coarse grater, or by bruising the onion with 
 the blunt edge of a knife, and then pressing hard with 
 the flat blade. Neither of these methods last mentioned 
 will extract more than a table-spoonful of juice from a 
 large onion. 
 
 How Garlic Vinegar is Made. 
 
 Pare and slice a dozen cloves of garlic ; put them in a 
 preserving-jar with one pint of vinegar ; cover, and set 
 away for two weeks ; then strain into a bottle. One tea- 
 spoonful of this vinegar added to a potato salad gives it 
 a delicate flavor of garlic. 
 
 How to Make Tarragon Vinegar 
 
 Put two bunches of fresh tarragon in a quart preserve- 
 jar ; fill the jar with white-wine vinegar ; cover, and 
 set away in a cool, dark place for two or three weeks. 
 At the end of that time strain the vinegar, and bottle it. 
 Fill the jar with fresh vinegar, and put away. It will 
 be ready for use in a month, but it need not be strained 
 until the first quantity has been used. This vinegar 
 is a great addition to any kind of salad and to many 
 sauces. 
 
 The Way to Make Chervil Vinegar. 
 
 Chervil vinegar is made like the tarragon, and is used 
 in the same way. 
 
 An Easy Way to Kill a Lobster. 
 
 When a live lobster is required for broiling or other 
 purposes, this will be found a simple and comparatively 
 painless mode of killing it. Run a long narrow-bladed 
 
WHAT ALL HOUSEKEEPERS SHOULD KNOW. 893 
 
 knife into the tail at the third joint from the end, hav- 
 ing the blade slant downward. This will cut the spinal 
 cord, and death will quickly follow. 
 
 How to Preserve Lobster Coral. 
 
 At some seasons of the year it is difficult to get the 
 coral of the lobster. Indeed, during the summer it is 
 almost impossible to get enough to color a soup or 
 sauce. 
 
 When a large quantity of coral is found in a lobster, 
 all that is not required for immediate use should be put 
 into a jar and covered with vinegar. It will keep a long 
 time. When it is to be used, soak it for one hour in 
 water, and then for an hour in milk. Wipe it dry, and 
 use it the same as if fresh. 
 
 How to Dry Parsley and Chervil. 
 
 Parsley and chervil should be dried in two ways. 
 When the herbs are to be used in a powdered form, tie 
 them in bunches, and hang them in a dry, shady place. 
 Keep them in bags or boxes. When the herbs are to 
 be used in a minced form in sauces, salads, and soups, 
 another method must be followed. Tie the herbs in 
 bunches ; lay them in a bowl, and cover them with boil- 
 ing water ; immediately pour off the water, and hang the 
 herbs in a dry, shady place. When dry, put them in 
 boxes or paper bags. When required for use, break off 
 the quantity desired ; soak in cold water for ten minutes, 
 
 and the herbs will be ready for use. 
 
 J 
 
 How to Make Lime Water. 
 
 Put about a pound of unslacked lime in a large bowl ; 
 pour over this three quarts of boiling water ; let it stand 
 for ten minutes ; then stir well with a stick. Place the 
 bowl in a cool place for eight or ten hours ; at the end 
 
894 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 of that time pour off the clear water, letting the sedi- 
 ment remain in the bottom of the bowl. Bottle the 
 clear water, and keep in a convenient place. A table- 
 spoonful of this may be added to a glass of milk to be 
 given to a patient with an acid stomach. 
 
 In case of burns, cover the burned parts with a cloth 
 wet in lime-water ; keep the cloth wet by pouring on a 
 little of the water as often as the cloth dries. 
 
 What Devonshire Cream is, and its Uses. 
 
 Put a pan of milk in a cool place for twenty-four 
 hours. At the end of that time place the pan on the 
 back of the range, and heat the milk slowly to the boil- 
 ing-point, being careful not to let it boil. Put the pan 
 in a cool place for six or twelve hours. At the end of 
 that time skim off the cream, which will be found firm, 
 and of a peculiarly sweet flavor. 
 
 In very hot weather the milk may be scalded after 
 it has stood for twelve hours. This cream is eaten on 
 mush, fruit, blanc-mange, toast, etc. 
 
 How to Stone Raisins. 
 
 Free the raisins from stems, and then put them in a 
 bowl. Cover them with boiling water, and let them stand 
 for two minutes. Pour off the water ; open the raisins, 
 and the seeds can be removed quickly and easily without 
 the usual stickiness. 
 
 How to Keep Food in a Refrigerator. 
 
 Food that has little odor itself, and food that absorbs 
 odors readily should be placed at the bottom of the re- 
 frigerator. All foods with a strong odor should be kept 
 on the top shelves. Sour milk or cream should not be 
 kept in the refrigerator. Salad dressings, Tartar sauce, 
 and celery should be covered closely, or they will flavor 
 
WHAT ALL HOUSEKEEPERS SHOULD KNOW. 895 
 
 everything that is shut up with them. Pineapple, straw- 
 berries, and raspberries should not be shut into a common 
 ice-chest with milk or cream. In the refrigerators where 
 there is a circulation of dry air, butter, milk, cream, and 
 other delicate foods may be kept in the lower part of the 
 refrigerator, and the fruits, vegetables, etc., with stronger 
 flavors and odors may be kept on the top shelves. If 
 arranged in this way, there will be little danger that one 
 kind of food will absorb the flavor or odor of another. 
 
 It is a good plan to keep a small dish of powdered 
 charcoal on one of the upper shelves of the refrigerator, 
 as it is an excellent absorbent of odors. It should be 
 changed every few days. 
 
 The refrigerator must be perfectly clean, and with 
 these precautions there need be no trouble in keeping 
 all kinds of food in a good refrigerator. People who 
 live in flats are so dependent on this mode of keeping 
 the daily supply of food that too much care cannot be 
 used to have the refrigerator sweet and healthful. 
 
 How to Prepare Liquid Cochineal. 
 
 Put into a small saucepan half a cupful of water, half 
 an ounce of powdered cochineal, a level table-spoonful of 
 cream-of-tartar, a piece of alum the size of a large pea, 
 and one table-spoonful of sugar. 
 
 Place on the fire, and boil gently for fifteen minutes. 
 Take the saucepan from the fire, and let the liquid cool 
 slightly. Put a small tunnel in the mouth of a small 
 bottle ; place a piece of cheese-cloth over the tunnel, 
 pressing it down a little. Pour the liquid on the cheese- 
 cloth, and strain it into the bottle. With a teaspoon 
 press as much of the cochineal as possible through the 
 sieve. Cork the bottle, and keep in a cool, dark place. 
 All the work must be done carefully ; for if a drop of 
 the cochineal falls on the fingers or table, it makes a 
 stain that will last a good while. A few drops of this 
 
896 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 preparation will color an icing, a cream, or a jelly. It 
 will keep several months. 
 
 How to Make Soft Soap. 
 
 All the strong-flavored fats, such as the fat of mutton, 
 goose, and turkey, should be tried out and strained while 
 fresh and sweet. Keep this strained fat by itself, and 
 use it when soft soap is to be made. If it be strained 
 into five-pound lard-cans, there will be no trouble about 
 weighing or measuring it at the time of making the 
 soap. 
 
 To make nine gallons of soap put into a large kettle a 
 pound can of Babbitt's pure potash and one quart of 
 water. Place on the fire, and boil for fifteen minutes. 
 At the end of that time add a five-pound can of grease, 
 and boil slowly an hour longer, stirring frequently with 
 a wooden stick. At the end of an hour pour the boiling- 
 mixture into a large soap-tub. Stirjnto this two gallons 
 of hot water. In about fifteen minutes add two more 
 gallons of hot water. Stir well, and add four gallons and 
 a half of water, this last quantity to be either hot or cold, 
 as suits your convenience. Stir the soap three or four 
 times in the next hour. When cold, it will be thick and 
 white. 
 
 What to Do if Fat Boils Over. 
 
 Everybody who reads the newspapers knows that fires 
 are frequently caused by fat boiling so high in the kettle 
 in which it has been placed that it escapes over the sides 
 of the utensil and falls upon the stove. In such cases 
 the common impulse of most spectators, in their desire 
 to extinguish the blaze, is to do what is realkr, the worst 
 thing possible, throw water on the fire. .,| pt/volume of 
 water may put out the blaze quickly, but 'a pailful only 
 spreads the flames. Firemen say that ashes are the best 
 extinguisher at all likely to be at hajid. If fat boils 
 
WHAT ALL HOUSEKEEPERS SHOULD KNOW. 897 
 
 over, a woman should immediately run for aid, unless 
 she knows that there is none within call, or is so fortu- 
 nate as to have a pan of ashes or a quantity of sand near 
 by, and to have means of speedy retreat in case her 
 attempt to smother the flames fails. Possibly many 
 fires might be prevented from causing any loss if women 
 kept boxes of sand near the stove whenever frying food 
 of any kind. 
 
 A woman's clothes may be set on fire when fat boils 
 over, or possibly at some other time when she is in the 
 kitchen. Scientists assert that if a woman will lie down 
 in such an emergency the flames will become for the while 
 almost harmless, and time will be gained for further 
 action. Any bystander who has the quick wit in such a 
 case to spread a woollen garment or a rug over the suf- 
 ferer to exclude the air, may save a life. Perhaps the 
 woman, if alone, can extinguish the flames herself by 
 rolling over. The great point to bear in mind is the 
 wisdom of lying down as quickly as possible, though, of 
 course, no woman wants to lie down in a room that is all 
 ablaze. In case her misfortune be due to the boiling-over 
 of fat she should get out of the room, perhaps go out of 
 doors, instantly, and then lie down at once. She nerer 
 should run. 
 
 67 
 
898 MISS PAELOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 AMONG housekeepers who do their own work there is 
 too often a feeling that if the food which is set before 
 the family be wholesome and plentiful, there need be no 
 thought of the manner in which it is put upon the table. 
 Yet even if the fare be very simple and one's means be 
 small, it is possible to serve dishes in such a way as to 
 convey instruction in good manners at each meal. Take 
 some of the dinner bills of fare in this chapter. Many 
 readers may say : " Four courses ! That 's too elaborate ; 
 I shall not try to carry it out." Nevertheless, if the 
 soup be omitted, and other slight changes made, there 
 will be no more in the bill than families in moderate cir- 
 cumstances commonly have for dinner. But little ad- 
 ditional labor and few extra dishes are required when 
 the dinner is divided into courses ; and one's appetite is 
 likely to be better, and the table will certainly look 
 better than when all the food is put on at once. Haste 
 in eating may also be prevented; and it should be re- 
 membered that haste induces dyspepsia, no matter how 
 good the cooking may be. Let housekeepers study the 
 composition of bills of fare ; and although they may not 
 see fit to follow them exactly as published, they ought in 
 time to acquire considerable useful knowledge, and be 
 able to see the wisdom of serving meals in courses, as 
 well as to learn how to adapt commended bills of fare to 
 their own circumstances. 
 
 Breakfast. 
 
 To no meal do we come with more variable appetites than break- 
 fast : therefore the housekeeper should give special attention to the 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 899 
 
 preparation and serving of the food which must suffice for the 
 majority of people through the hardest labor of the day. The pe- 
 riod between supper, or dinner, and breakfast on the morrow is 
 about twelve hours ; the stomach is in an exhausted condition in the 
 morning, and the food designed for it should be appetizing and not 
 heavy. The aim should be to have the dishes light, hot, nutritious, 
 and inviting. 
 
 Arrangements for the meal should not be deferred until late at 
 night, but should receive attention in the morning, when plans are 
 being made for dinner, or luncheon, and supper. In this way it is 
 easy to arrange for the meal so that it can be well cooked and prop- 
 erly served, not in the hurried, unsatisfactory manner so common 
 in many households. 
 
 To many people a chop, cutlet, or steak is a necessity every morn- 
 ing; whereas to others anything so solid is unacceptable in the 
 then weak condition of the stomach. One rule will not apply to all 
 persons with regard to food any more than with regard to medicine. 
 Probably almost every person who is not usually fastidious or un- 
 reasonable about his food is, nevertheless, at times strongly averse 
 to tasting a dish that is generally inviting and palatable. This 
 fact is noticeable at breakfast more than at any other meal, but is 
 seen also when one has gone too long without food, or has become 
 anxious, nervous, or extremely tired. In such cases light food 
 should be provided, and it should be eaten slowly. A crust of well- 
 baked bread, thoroughly masticated, will frequently bring the appe- 
 tite back to a healthy condition. 
 
 It is desirable that the breakfast-room should be orderly and 
 cheerful, and the table spread with as much care as for the most 
 elaborate meal of the day. It is well to begin the breakfast with 
 oatmeal, hominy, or fruit. 
 
 Family Luncheons and Simple Home Dinners. 
 
 So long as late dinners are necessary or agreeable to so many 
 families, so long will the luncheon be an important meal, especially 
 where there are children. The little savory dishes which can be 
 made from the odds and ends left from the dinner of the previous 
 day, and all the thick, nutritious soups which are so simple and in- 
 expensive, are proper for this meal. In planning for luncheon it 
 must be remembered that a more substantial meal i* to come later, 
 
900 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 and that the dishes should be light and simple. They also should be 
 hot. A soup is always desirable, and there should be plenty of good 
 bread. 
 
 Changes Advisable in the Spring. 
 
 With the advent of spring, a feeling of debility and lack of ap- 
 petite may be expected. For such troubles it is wiser to seek relief 
 by a change of food rather than by the use of bitters or other medi- 
 cine. The heavy, rich dishes which have been enjoyed during the 
 winter should give place to those of a lighter kind. For breakfast, 
 eggs, cooked by various modes, with perhaps a little relish of ham 
 or bacon, and toast, hashes, etc., should be served instead of steaks 
 and chops. Fish, and the lighter kinds of meat, with vegetables 
 and salads, should be used for dinner. 
 
 A Tempting Table in Warm Weather. 
 
 During hot weather housekeepers should constantly bear in mind 
 the wisdom of appealing to the eye as well as to the palate. In the 
 morning, when the system feels debilitated, it is particularly advis- 
 able not only to have the right kind of food and have it cooked 
 nicely, but also to serve it in ways that will be likely to awaken an 
 appetite at once. Perhaps nothing so quickly refreshes one on com- 
 ing to the breakfast-table in summer as the sight of broken ice and 
 something green. If berries are to form a part of the meal, put in 
 the centre of a large flat dish glass or china a small shallow 
 dish filled with broken ice, and heap the fruit round it. If bananas 
 be the fruit chosen to begin the meal with, remove half the peel 
 and arrange the bananas in an attractive way on a dish of ice. Sliced 
 pineapple looks much more tempting if it have a cool bed, and 
 peaches taste better if cared for in the same way. A few green 
 leaves or some flowers, bright and simple, may leave such a pleasant 
 impression as to make one very ready to come to breakfast the next 
 day. Some people relish nothing in the morning more than sliced 
 cucumbers, sliced tomatoes, water-cresses, the heart leaves of lettuce, 
 and other uncooked vegetables. Such dishes must be thoroughly 
 chilled before they are served. Like fruit, they will look much 
 more attractive if cracked ice be used as an accompaniment, and 
 will give the table an appearance of coolness. 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 901 
 
 During the summer and fall the wisest housekeepers are particular 
 to be generous in their provision of fruit, vegetables, milk, and eggs 
 for the table. All these things are at their best at this season, and 
 also are much cheaper than at any other time of the year. 
 
 In summer, use those vegetables which last but a short time more 
 frequently than those which may be obtained throughout the season. 
 While asparagus is in perfection, use it freely. This advice applies 
 also to peas and string beans from home gardens, and young beets 
 and carrots. As tomatoes are good through spring, summer, and 
 fall, use them less frequently. 
 
 IN EMERGENCIES. 
 
 What* to Serve when Unexpected Guests Come. 
 
 If one live in the city and have unlimited means, the unexpected 
 necessity of entertaining guests at luncheon or dinner should not 
 disturb her; but if one live in the country, away from stores, or 
 lack that abundance of money which will enable one to buy the 
 freshest delicacies or whatever else may be desired to set before 
 company, the matter of preparing a special meal in a hurry may 
 tax her patience considerably. This should not be the case ^ house- 
 keepers ought to feel that a cordial welcome to visitors is of more 
 consequence than the preparation of fine dishes for their gratifi- 
 cation. Many a passing friend loses half the enjoyment which 
 might be derived from dining with the family because of a feeling 
 that his unlooked-for coming has caused considerable embarrass- 
 ment and trouble to his hostess, whereas the knowledge that noth- 
 ing had been done, save to place an extra plate on the table, would 
 put him completely at ease. Of course, if the family be small, and 
 more than one guest appear, it may be necessary to cook more food 
 than usual, or prepare a side dish of some kind, if the meal be ready 
 or nearly ready before the visitors appear. It is presupposed that a 
 substantial meal is always provided for the family ; for this should be 
 the case. Too many women are so unwise as to feel satisfied with 
 a carelessly prepared meal when it is for themselves alone ; they 
 ought to know that warm and nutritious food is as necessary for 
 their health as for men's. 
 
902 
 
 MISS PAKLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 But to return to the matter of emergencies. Imagine that there 
 are friends at the door, and, by some mischance, plans have not 
 been made for a meal to which the housekeeper would be willing to 
 invite them. In half an hour a good and attractive repast may be 
 spread, provided, however, that the pantry or storeroom contains 
 articles for use on just such occasions. Here is a list of goods 
 which it is well to keep on hand in quantities to be determined by 
 the size of the family and the probability of receiving unexpected 
 guests : Canned peas, mixed vegetables, com, tomatoes, tongue, 
 chicken, salmon, shrimps, and fruit ; smoked salmon, smoked bacon, 
 dried beef, preserves, olives, olive oil, beef extract, condensed milk 
 (unless one be able to get fresh milk readily) ; fancy crackers and 
 some kinds of cakes, none are better than those which are rolled 
 thin and baked crisp, if they be kept in a tin box and in a dry place ; 
 eggs, onions, and potatoes ; rice, hominy, corn-meal, graham, corn- 
 starch, macaroni, tea, coffee, and chocolate, cheese, raisins, and 
 perhaps figs and nuts. 
 
 Below are given bills of fare for luncheon and dinner for six per- 
 sons. All the dishes for luncheon can be prepared by a housekeeper 
 of average ability in about half an hour. The preparation of the 
 dinners will, however, require twice as much time. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Terrapin Chicken. 
 Soiled Mice. French Peas. 
 
 Macedoine Salad. 
 
 Toatted Crackers. Canned Peaches. 
 Coffee. 
 
 Dried Beef, Cream Sauce. 
 
 Puree of Potatoes. Olives. 
 
 Crackers. Gingerbread. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 Broiled Bacon. Stewed Potatoes. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs. Corn Muffins. 
 
 Crackers. Cheese. Olives. 
 
 Cake. Preserves. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 Cold Tongue. 
 Macaroni, with Tomato Sauce. 
 
 French Peas. 
 
 Jelly Omelet. Fancy Crackers. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Tomato Soup. Toasted Bread. 
 
 Curry of Shrimp or Chicken. 
 Boiled Rice. Stewed Corn. 
 
 Welsh Rare-bit. 
 Corn-starch Pudding, 
 
 Strawberry Sauce. 
 Coffee. 
 
 Potato Soup. 
 
 Broiled Smoked Salmon. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. Omelet. 
 
 Cream-of-Tartar Biscuit. 
 
 Marmalade. Soda Crackers. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 Green Pea Soup. 
 
 Sliced Canned Tongue. 
 
 Xfacedoine of Vegetables. 
 
 French Fried Potatoes. 
 
 Strawberry Trifle. Coffe 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 903 
 
 COMPANY BREAKFASTS. 
 
 The custom of giving little breakfast-parties is becoming more 
 common every year. Literary men and artists are especially partial 
 to this kind of entertainment. The dishes for this meal should be 
 as simple as possible, perfectly cooked, and served hot. Some host- 
 esses, in their desire to give elaborate breakfasts, overreach the 
 mark, and instead of serving a simple, elegant breakfast, they pro- 
 vide what is really a dinner. This is in as bad taste as if the guests 
 came to breakfast in full dress. 
 
 The hours for a company breakfast are from nine to twelve 
 o'clock. The sooner after nine o'clock a breakfast can be served, 
 the better. When people have fasted too long they may not so 
 agreeable as under more favorable circumstances ; or if the break- 
 fast be so late that they are obliged to take a light meal before 
 coming, they will not be in a condition fully to appreciate what the 
 host or hostess has prepared for their pleasure. 
 
 Here are a few bills of fare that may help the young housekeeper 
 in planning to give a breakfast of this kind. 
 
 IN THE SPRING. 
 
 Sliced Pineapple. 
 Broiled Shad. Sliced Cucumbers. 
 
 Thin Fried Potatoes. 
 Chicken Cutlets, Mushroom Sauce. 
 
 French Peas. 
 Savory Omelet. Radishes. 
 
 Rolls. Toast. 
 
 Cream Waffles, Maple Syrup. 
 
 Tea. Coffee. 
 
 IN SUMMER. 
 
 Berries. 
 Baked Turbans of Flounder, 
 
 White Sauce. 
 Potato Balls, with Parsley Butter. 
 
 Broiled Chicken. 
 Green Peas. Rolls. 
 
 Tomato Omelet. Pop-overs. 
 
 Frozen Peaches, with Whipped 
 Cream. 
 
 Tea. Coffee. 
 
 IN THE FALL. 
 
 Chilled Cantaloupe. 
 
 Breaded Fillet of Bass, 
 
 Tartar Sauce. Rolls. 
 
 Small Tenderloin Steaks, 
 
 Mushroom Brown Sauce. 
 
 Fried Sweet Potatoes. Muffins. 
 
 Baked Eggs. Butter Toast. 
 Hominy Griddle-Cakes, with Maple 
 Syrup. 
 
 Tea. Coffee. 
 
 IN WINTER. 
 
 Baked Sweet Apples, with Cream. 
 
 Fried Smelts, 
 
 Tartar Green Sauce. Rolls. 
 
 Breaded Mutton Chops, 
 
 Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Princess Potatoes. Corn Muffins. 
 
 Oyster Omelet. Wheat Muffins. 
 
 Buckwheat Cakes, with Maple Syrup. 
 
 Chocolate. Coffee. 
 
904 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 COMPANY LUNCHEONS. 
 
 Company luncheons being especially for ladies, the dishes should 
 be light, and a warm drink served at the close. Frequently choco- 
 late is taken in the middle of the luncheon, in which case coffee 
 may be served later. Tea is not often provided ; yet if any guest 
 drinks neither chocolate nor coffee, it is proper and thoughtful to 
 inquire if a cup of tea would be acceptable. It is what many 
 ladies always take at their home luncheon, and its absence may 
 detract much from their pleasure. 
 
 Use of Wine. 
 
 In some families wines are considered indispensable at this meal, 
 whereas in others they are used only at dinner. It will be a great 
 gain for humanity when wine is never set on a ladies' table. The 
 homes where it is not served may not be so numerous as those 
 where it is, yet no one need hesitate in the least to plan for a 
 company luncheon, dinner, or supper at which wine shall have no 
 place. Have the food of such good quality that no accompaniment 
 shall be desired to make it palatable or digestible. 
 
 A Plan to be Commended. 
 
 From a simple meal, the luncheon has grown to proportions 
 rather formidable to the young housekeeper ; for it is nothing less 
 than a small dinner at present. Many ladies serve fish after the 
 soup, and then a joint, which should be followed with a light 
 dessert and coffee. Such a meal is to be commended when one has 
 not trained servants and silver and china in plenty, as the prepara- 
 tion and serving will not require any more ability or care than the 
 housekeeper and cook need for every-day duties ; whereas aspiration 
 to provide many courses may lead to embarrassment. 
 
 The Oysters and Soup. 
 
 When oysters are in season, they are usually served raw as a first 
 course, either in half the shell or in a block of ice. There should 
 be a soup of some kind. If it be a clear one, like bouillon or 
 consomme*, the most approved way of serving it is in cups. The 
 cup commonly used is of a size between tea and coffee cups, but 
 pretty china teacups will do very well. It is perfectly proper to 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 905 
 
 use soup-plates, but the soup will not keep hot so long as in cups, 
 and may not look so inviting. 
 
 Decoration of the Table. 
 
 The hostess should be ambitious to have her table present none 
 of the characteristics of any other ; she should avoid copying, no 
 matter how charming a model she may have seen. It is worth the 
 while, provided expense be a matter of moment, to omit some ex- 
 pensive dish selected for a place in the bill of fare, and use the 
 money thus saved for flowers and ferns. Masses of fresh leaves and 
 vines, dotted with bright-colored flowers, are always grateful to the 
 eye at the table. A block of ice may be used effectively in the 
 decoration. It should be a square block, clear and smooth, and 
 weighing about ten pounds. Chip in the centre of it a hollow 
 about two inches in depth and three in diameter ; after laying two 
 or three folded napkins in the middle of a large stone-china platter, 
 place the ice upon them and cover the dish with ferns or any deli- 
 cate green stun , and fill the cavity in the block with ferns and 
 flowers. Tliis ornament, which is suitable as a centre-piece for 
 either a luncheon, dinner, or supper table, looks bright, cool, and 
 refreshing, and is inexpensive. When one is in the country, where 
 ferns can be gathered in the woods, and the block of ice is first 
 surrounded with soft green moss, the effect is even more agreeable 
 than when the greenhouse supplies the embellishments. 
 
 A Few Points. 
 
 Perhaps the most convenient way ot serving raw oysters is on 
 plates made expressly for them, laying an oyster in each of the 
 imitation shells, and a quarter of a lemon in the centre of the plate. 
 The waiter should pass thin bread-and-butter sandwiches to be eaten 
 with the oysters. These sandwiches should be of a size not greater 
 than three inches square, and should be buttered very lightly. A 
 convenient way of serving bread is to tie together with narrow bright 
 ribbons three or four bread-sticks about six inches long, and place 
 a bundle at each person's plate. By this mode the appearance ot 
 the board is brightened considerably. 
 
 All the dishes should be so placed that the waiter can take them 
 in regular order, and should there be occasion for washing plates or 
 silver, the work should be done so quietly that no sound of it shah 1 
 reach the dining-room. Care also must be taken, if the silver is to 
 
906 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 be used a second time, that it does not retain the heat of the water 
 in which it is washed. The dishes for soup, whether plates or cups, 
 should be warm ; so should be the dishes for all the hot courses ; 
 but for the cold they should be entirely free from heat. 
 
 The finger-bowls should contain only about a third as much water 
 as they will hold. On its surface should be laid a thin slice of 
 lemon or a fragrant green leaf, like geranium or lemon verbena. A 
 delicate doyley should be so folded as to show its fringe on all sides, 
 yet so small as not to conceal the rim of the dessert-plate on which 
 it is to be laid. The finger-glass is to rest on the doyley. Before 
 fruit is served, a dessert-plate should be placed before each guest, 
 who will at once raise the glass, remove the doyley to the left of the 
 plate, and set the glass on it. When the dessert-plates are painted 
 the doyley prevents any damage by contact with glass. 
 
 As soon as the dessert and coffee have been served, the waiter 
 leaves the room ; and the conversation may become livelier, because 
 of a feeling that it will not then delay the serving of a course. 
 Coffee is sometimes served in the drawing-room after the luncheon, 
 ns after dinner ; yet the custom is not common. 
 
 A One-o'clock Luncheon. 
 
 Here is a bill of fare, with directions for serving the dishes. Most 
 of the work for such a luncheon can be done a day in advance. 
 
 Chicken Consomme. 
 Broiled Sardines on Toast. 
 
 Lamb Chops, Breaded. Green Peas. 
 
 Chicken Croquettes. 
 
 Lobster Salad. 
 Cantaloupe Charlotte. 
 
 Sherbet or Ice-cream. Fancy Cakes. 
 
 Olives. Fruit. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 The croquettes can be shaped the day before the luncheon, and 
 fried at the proper time ; the lamb chops can be trimmed, seasoned 
 with salt and pepper, dipped in melted butter and then in fine 
 bread crumbs, and put away until the morrow ; the Mayonnaise 
 dressing can be prepared, and, if the weather be cold, the charlotte 
 can be made and the cream prepared for freezing. On the day of 
 the luncheon attention may be given chiefly to the sardines, the 
 lobster and lettuce for the salad, the freezing of the cream, and 
 arrangements for the table. 
 
BILLS OF FARE 907 
 
 Before attempting any other work, have the kitchen and diniug- 
 room put in as good order as possible for the task before you. 
 See that your cream is ready for freezing ; that the cans of peas are 
 opened, if you use French peas ; that the sardines are removed from 
 their box, and drained on a large plate or platter ; that the lobsters 
 are opened, and the meat cut into dice and put into a marinade to 
 stand for two or three hours ; that the lettuce is washed, leaf by 
 leaf, and put into a pan of broken ice to keep it crisp. 
 
 Freeze the cream, and pack it into moulds. If buttered bread is 
 to be served, cut and butter the slices, and wrap them in a damp 
 napkin. Cut bread for toast also, and set aside a quantity of butter 
 to soften for the toast. 
 
 Look into the dining-room, and, as you arrange the table, decide 
 as nearly as possible where each guest shall sit. If raw oysters are 
 to be served on plates (that is, not in the natural shells, but in imi- 
 tation shells forming a part of the plate), they should be put upon the 
 table before the company is summoned to the dining-room ; but if 
 oysters are not made a course in your bill of fare, place ordinary 
 plates upon the table, together with knives and forks. The greater 
 part of the silver may be put upon the table when it is set, three 
 forks, two knives, a soup-spoon, and a small spoon beside each plate, 
 if one have silver in plenty. By this plan the waiter's responsibility 
 may be lightened, but it is questionable whether the display of so 
 much silver increases the elegance of the appearance of the table. If 
 one think it does not, the waiter may be instructed to bring in the 
 proper pieces of silver with the plates for each course, two plates 
 at a time, with the silver laid upon them. There is no greater test 
 of a waiter's ability than this matter of placing silver upon the table 
 and removing it without noise. The guest, of course, has his part 
 to perform. As soon as a plate is set before him, he will take the 
 knife, fork, and spoon from it, and lay them beside his plate. The 
 waiter may pass each dish to the guests, or the hostess herself may 
 serve. The latter manner is the more likely to promote sociability. 
 
 There are two modes of arranging the table for the dessert. One 
 is to have two table-cloths, and remove the upper after the salad has 
 been served ; but by following this plan the flowers and ornaments 
 must be taken off the table, and a bare surface of white is seen for 
 some moments. The other and better mode is to use a crumb-knife 
 and salver. It may not be amiss to say here that as the fashion of 
 serving ices in small soup-plates, and eating them with a fork has 
 nothing to commend it, it will not be followed by a wise hostess. 
 
908 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Fruit is frequently placed on the table before the luncheon is served. 
 When there are no flowers it makes a bright centre-piece ; yet fruit 
 seems much more appetizing if it has not been in view during the 
 meal. 
 
 The final act of the mistress will be to give directions as to the 
 time and mode of serving the courses. She will do well to make out 
 three menus, with the time for cooking and serving set against each 
 dish, one to be given to the cook, another to the waiter, and the 
 third to be retained for her own use. The value of such memoranda 
 may become evident after a reading of the following pattern for a 
 one-o'clock luncheon, like that suggested on page 906 : 
 
 12.50 o'clock. Sardines on Toast. Broil the fish eight minutes, and lay them 
 oh the toast. Keep hot, for serving at 1.10. 
 
 1.00 o'clock. Consomme. Serve hot. 
 
 1.00 o'clock. Green Peas. Heat them, and season with salt and butter. 
 
 1.10 o'clock. Sardines on Toast. Serve. ' 
 
 1.10 o'clock. Chops. Put them on to broil for ten minutes. When they 
 are cooked, heap the green peas in the centre of a platter 
 and lay the chops around them. Serve at once. (1.20.) 
 
 1.85 o'clock. Croquettes. Plunge into boiling tat, and cook until they be- 
 come browned, two minutes. Serve on a warm dish with 
 a garnish of parsley. 
 
 1.45 o'clock. Salad. Arrange and serve. 
 
 2.00 o'clock. Cantaloupe Charlotte. Turn out on a dish, and heap whipped 
 cream around it. Serve. 
 
 2.00 o'clock. Coffee. Begin to make it. 
 
 2.10 o'clock. Ice-cream and Cake. Serve. 
 
 2.15 o'clock. Coffee. Serve. 
 
 Company Luncheons in Fall and Winter. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Oysters a la Poulette. 
 SmaU Tenderloin Steaks, with Mar- 
 row-bones. Sweet Potatoes au 
 Gratin. 
 
 Roast Grouse, Bread Sauce. French 
 Peas. 
 
 Dressed Celery. 
 
 Orange Jelly, with Whipped Cream. 
 Chocolate. Fruit. 
 
 Oysters in the Half-Shell. Rolled 
 
 Bread. 
 Fillet of Striped Bass, Tartar Sauce. 
 
 Potatoes a la Parisienne. 
 
 Broiled Chicken. 
 Dressed Celery. 
 
 Cauliflower au Gratin. 
 Iced Coffee. 
 Royal Croquettes, Sauce Allemand. 
 
 Broiled Mushrooms. 
 Roast Partridge, Bread Sauce. 
 
 Green Peas. 
 Escaloped Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Cheese Fingers. 
 Burnt Almond Charlotte Russe. 
 Orange Sherbet. 
 
 Apricot Ice-cream, 
 Fruit. Chocolate. Cake. 
 
BILLS OF FAEE. 909 
 
 Company Luncheons in Spring and Summer. 
 
 Bouillon. | Chicken Consomme. 
 
 Creamed Oysters, with Garnish of , Broiled Salmon, Bechamel Cream 
 Puff-Paste Triangles. Sauce. 
 
 Broiled Small Birds on Toast. Lamb Chops. 
 
 French Peas. Asparagus Points on Toast. New 
 
 Sorbet. Potatoes, with Parsley Sauce. 
 
 Chicken Patties. < Sweetbreads, Larded and Baked, with 
 Lobster Farce. Cream Sauce. Green Peas. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. Marguerite Salad. 
 
 Royal Diplomatic Pudding. \ Orange Sherbet. 
 
 Walnut Ice-cream. 
 
 Small Fancy Cakes. 
 
 Caramel Ice-cream. 
 Cake. Fruit. 
 
 Fruit. Coffee. Coffee. 
 
 COMPANY DINNERS AND SUPPERS. 
 
 When the husband unceremoniously invites home to dine with 
 him a friend of whose coming not the slightest mention has been 
 made to the wife, she may be unable to make special preparation at 
 short notice, and should be satisfied to set before the guest the good 
 food which she ordinarily provides for the family, though it be plain. 
 Suggestions as to what may be done in such cases have already 
 been given in another part of this chapter, under the head " In 
 Emergencies." 
 
 But perhaps a few intimate friends are asked to be present at the 
 family dinner. There is no need of any elaborate preparations, for a 
 simple meal will be acceptable enough if it be well cooked and well 
 served. 
 
 Again, invitations may be issued to a more ceremonious dinner. 
 It should be remembered, when arranging for such a meal, that the 
 home table should be of a character absolutely distinct from that of 
 the restaurant or hotel, despite the prevalent fancy of many house- 
 keepers for copying the restaurant table as closely as possible. 
 Then, too, unless a large number of guests be present, the dinner 
 will be much more enjoyable if placed on the table and served by the 
 host and hostess. Guard against the error of having too many dishes. 
 An elegant dinner may be composed of a few dishes excellently 
 cooked and faultlessly served ; whereas if the number be large, the 
 liability of poor cooking is enhanced, and, moreover, as some of the 
 dishes must stand awhile after they have been cooked, they may not 
 be in the best state when brought to the table, though perhaps per- 
 fect at first. 
 
910 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Unless implicit confidence may be placed in the cook, written di- 
 rections should be given as to the time each dish is to be put on to 
 cook and to be served, so that there shall be no mortifying mistakes 
 in the kitchen. The waiter should have a copy of the menu, and 
 there should be one at your own plate. Prepare as many of the 
 dishes as possible the previous day. If the bill of fare be long and 
 many of the courses heavy, the soup should be light, say some 
 kind of clear soup ; but if the courses be few, it will be well to have 
 some kind of cream soup. 
 
 The general suggestions given in regard to company luncheons 
 apply also to company dinners. 
 
 Spring and Early Summer. 
 
 Asparagus Soup. 
 
 Baked Salmon, Sauce Hollandaise. 
 
 Roast Chicken, with Currant Jelly. 
 
 Potato Croquettes. Asparagus. 
 
 Escaloped Sweetbreads. 
 
 Green Peas. 
 Dressed Lettuce. Cheese Fingers. 
 
 Strawberry Charlotte. 
 
 Pineapple Sherbet. Cake. 
 
 Ice-cream. Coffee. 
 
 Bisque of Lobster. 
 
 Broiled Spanish Mackerel, Ravigote 
 Sauce. 
 
 Chicken Timbales, Bechamel Cream 
 Sauce. French Peas. 
 Fillet of Beef , Mushroom Sauce. 
 Vegetables a la Jardiniere. 
 
 Sorbet. 
 Roast Woodcock, with Garnish of 
 
 Water-cresses and Lemons. 
 Reed Birds on Toast. Potatoes a la 
 Parisienne. 
 
 Shrimp Salad. 
 
 Vanilla Ice-cream. 
 
 Lemon Sherbet. 
 
 Chocolate Mousse. 
 
 Fancy Cakes. Fruit. 
 
 Confectionery. Coffee. 
 
 Summer and Early Autumn. 
 
 Chicken Consomme. 
 Fillets of Flounder au Gratin. 
 Fried Chicken in Cream Sauce. 
 
 Potato Souffle. 
 Breaded Calves' Brains, Ravigote 
 
 Sauce. French Peas. 
 Roast Duck, Olive Brown Sauce. 
 Brussels Sprouts. Potato Balls. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Imperial Pudding, Strawberry 
 
 Sauce. 
 
 Lemon Sherbet. Cake. Fruit. 
 Coffee. 
 
 Potage a la reine. 
 Boiled Salmon, Tarragon Sauce. 
 Cauliflower, with Cream Sauce. 
 Broiled Chicken, Tartar Sauce. 
 
 French Peas. 
 
 Raspberry Granite. 
 
 Roast* Woodcock on Toast. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Toasted Soda- Crackers. 
 
 Neufchdtel Cheese. 
 
 Pineapple Sherbet. Ice-cream 
 
 Fruit. Fancy Cakes. 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 911 
 
 Autumn and Winter. 
 
 Crab Bisque. 
 
 Turbot a la Creme. 
 
 Potato Croquettes. 
 
 Parisian Vol-au-Vent. 
 
 Roast Chicken. 
 Dressed Celery. Potato Puffs. 
 
 Iced Orange Granite. 
 Fried Froys' Legs, Tartar Sauce. 
 
 Cauliflower au Gratin. 
 Reed Birds Roasted in Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Green Peas. Lettuce Salad. 
 Peaches in Jelly, with Whipped 
 Cream. 
 
 Coffee Mousse. 
 
 Vanilla Ice-cream. Lemon Sherbet. 
 Coffee. 
 
 Raw Oysters. Buttered Brown 
 Bread. 
 
 Velvet Soup. 
 
 Fillets of Flounder in Wine, White 
 Sauce. 
 
 Boiled Potato Balls. 
 Chicken a la Duxelles, Bechamel 
 Sauce. 
 
 Macedoine of Vegetables. 
 
 Coffee Granite. 
 
 Venison Steak. Currant Jelly. 
 
 Fried Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Dressed Celery. 
 Olives. Crackers. Cheese. 
 
 Biscuit Tortoni. 
 
 Fruit. Confectionery. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 Oyster Bisque. 
 
 Fillet of Bass. Tartar Sauce. Rice 
 Croquettes. 
 
 Roast Chicken. 
 Minced Spinach. Mushed Potatoes. 
 
 Cranberry Jelly. 
 Broiled Quail on Toast. 
 
 Dressed Celery. 
 Potatoes a la Parisitnne. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Crackers and Cheese. 
 
 Orange Sherbet. Ice-cream. 
 
 Fruit. Small Fancy Caket. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 Winter. 
 
 Oysters in a Block of Ice. 
 
 Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches. 
 
 Consomme a la Royal. 
 Fried Smelts, Tartar Sauce. 
 
 Buttered Brown Bread. 
 Tenderloin Steaks a la Bearnaise. 
 
 Potatoes a la Parisienne. 
 
 Chicken Timbales, Bechamel Yellow 
 
 Sauce. French Peas. 
 
 Di'essed Celery. 
 
 Crackers and Cheese. 
 
 Royal Diplomatic Pudding. 
 
 Lemon Sherbet. 
 
 Coffee fee-cream. 
 
 Vanilla Ice-cream. 
 
 Fancy Cakes. Fruit. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 Green Pea Soup. 
 
 Broiled Whitefish, Maitre d'Hdtel 
 Butter. 
 
 Potatoes au Gratin. 
 Anchovy Toast, 
 
 Mutton Chops. Peas a la Franqaise. 
 
 Welsh Rare-bit. 
 
 Water-cress Salad. 
 
 Custard Souffle ; , Creamy Sauce. 
 
 Fruit. Coffee. 
 
 Julienne Soup. 
 
 Fillets of Flounders au Gratin, with 
 Bechamel Sauce. 
 
 Potato Croquettes. 
 Roast Chicken, Ravigote Sauce. 
 
 Potato Puffs. 
 
 Cauliflower in Cream Sauce. 
 Sweetbreads in Paper Cases. 
 
 Sorbet. 
 
 Roasted Young Ducks. 
 Stuffed Cucumbers. Green Peas. 
 
 Salmon Salad. 
 Cream a la Versailles. 
 
 Chocolate Mousse. 
 
 Walnut Ice-cream. Fancy Cakes. 
 
 Pineapple Sherbet. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
912 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Game Dinner. 
 
 Blue Points. Bread-and- Butter 
 Sandwiches. 
 
 Green Turtle Soup. 
 
 Fillet of Bass, Tartar Sauce. 
 
 Roast Venison, Currant Jelly Sauce. 
 
 Potato Puff's. 
 
 Small Birds in Crumbs. 
 
 Roast Duck, Orange Sauce. 
 
 Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Larded Grouse, Bread Sauce. 
 
 French Peas. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Cheese. Thin Crackers. 
 
 Celery. 
 
 Wine Jelly. Italian Cream. 
 
 Orange Sherbet. Walnut Ice-cream. 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 A Little Supper. 
 
 Creamed Oysters, with Puff-Paste 
 Cakes. 
 
 Venison Steak. 
 
 Currant Jelly. Thin Fried Potatoes. 
 Broiled Quail on Toast. 
 
 Cold Roast Chicken. 
 Dressed Celery. French Peas. 
 
 Orange Sherbet. 
 
 Chocolate Mousse. Cake. Fruit. 
 Coffee. 
 
 With this supper there should be served very small hot rolls, 
 and cold bread cut in delicate slices, as well as side dishes of olives 
 and salted almonds. 
 
 An Oyster Supper. 
 
 Oysters in the Half-Shell. 
 Quarters of Lemon. 
 
 Brown Bread. 
 
 Fried Oysters. Escaloped Oysters. 
 
 Rolls. Fried Brown Bread. 
 
 Dressed Celery. 
 
 Oysters a la Poulette. 
 Puff-Paste Cakes. 
 
 Oyster Salad. 
 
 Thin Slices of Bread. Olives. 
 
 Orange Jelly. Charlotte Russe. 
 
 Chocolate. Coffee. 
 
 LENTEN FARE. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 BroiUd Salt Fish. 
 
 Princess Potatoes. 
 Poached Eggs. 
 
 Spider Corn Cake. Toast. 
 
 Rice Griddle-cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Broiled Fish, with Maitre rf' Hotel 
 Butter. 
 
 Ma$h ed Pota toes. Cucumbers. 
 
 Canned Peas. 
 Tea Cake. 
 Ta. 
 
 DINNERS. 
 
 Clam Soup. Escaloped Fish. 
 
 Peas a la Frangaise. 
 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Macaroni, with Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Cheese Souffle. Cider Jelly. 
 
 Potato Soup. 
 
 Boiled Halibut, Egg Sauce. 
 
 Potato Puff's. Green Peas. 
 
 Broiled Mackerel or Bass. 
 
 Thin Fried Potatoes. 
 
 Dressed Lettuce. 
 Crackers and Cheese. 
 Baked Bread Pudding, Vanilla 
 Sauce. 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 913 
 
 Tomato Soup. 
 
 Baked Fish, Sauce Hollandaise. 
 
 Macaroni and Cheese. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Oyster Omelet. 
 Quaking Pudding, Wine Sauce. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Milk Toast. 
 
 Egg-and-Lettuce Salad. Hot Rolls. 
 Delicate Cake. Cocoa. 
 
 COMPANY DINNERS IN LENT. 
 
 Oysters in the Half-Shell. 
 
 Rolled Bread. 
 Cream-of -Celery Soup. 
 Baked Chicken Halibut, with Becha- 
 mel Cream Sauce and Garnish 
 of Potato Balls and Hard-boiled 
 Kggs. 
 Broiled Lobster, Maitre d' Hotel 
 
 Butter. 
 
 Green Peas a la Frangaise. 
 Orange Sorbet. 
 
 Fillet of Bass, Tartar Sauce. 
 Bermuda Potatoes or Sliced Toma- 
 toes. 
 
 Deviled Lobster. 
 Crackers and Cheese. 
 
 Dressed Lettuce. 
 Custard Souffle, Creamy Sauce. 
 Ice-cream. Small Caket. 
 
 Fruit. Coffee. 
 
 Oysters in a Block of Ice. 
 
 Mock Bisque. 
 Baked Shad, Sauce Hollandaise. 
 
 Potato Balls. 
 
 Broiled Salmon, Maitre d' Hotel 
 
 Butter. Green Peas. 
 
 Cheese Souffle. 
 
 Lobster Salad. 
 
 Cabinet Pudding, Wine Sauce. 
 Frozen Apricots. 
 
 Caramel Ice-cream 
 Small Fancy Cakes. 
 Fruit. Co/ee. 
 
 GENTLEMEN'S DINNERS. 
 
 Spring. 
 
 Oysters in the Half-Shell. 
 
 Sorrel Soup. 
 
 Broiled Shad, Ravigote Sauce. 
 
 Sliced Cucumbers. 
 
 Potato Croquettes. 
 
 Roast Lamb, Mint Sauce. 
 
 Asparagus. Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Roman Punch. 
 
 Roast Duck, Orange Savet. 
 
 French Peas. 
 
 Small Cheese Souffles. 
 
 Lettuce-and-Tarragon Salad. 
 
 Sherbet. Ice-cream. 
 
 Small Fancy Cakes. Fruit. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 Summer. 
 
 Little-Neck Clams. 
 
 Green Pea Soup. 
 
 Broiled Salmon, Bearnaise Sauce. 
 
 Green Peas. 
 Broiled Chicken. 
 Vegetables d la Jardiniere. 
 Strawberry or Raspberry Granite. ' 
 
 Roast Snipe or Woodcock. 
 
 Saratoga Potatoes. 
 
 Water-cress Salad. 
 
 Crackers. Cheese. 
 
 Strawberry Ice-cream. 
 
 Lemon Sherbet, Macaroons. Fruit. 
 
 Sponge Cake. Coffee. 
 
914 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Fall. 
 
 Anchovy Canapes. 
 
 Lobster Bisque. 
 
 Fillet of Sole Baked in White Wine. 
 Potato Balls, with Parsley Butter. 
 
 Tenderloin Steaks, 
 
 Olive Brown Sauce. Lima, Beans. 
 
 Orange Sorbet. 
 
 Roast Partridges, Bread Sauce. 
 
 Cauliflower, with Cream Sauce. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Royal Fritters, Sabayon Sauce. 
 
 Frozen Peaches. Ice-cream. 
 
 Vanilla Wafers. Fruit. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 Winter. 
 
 Oysters in the Half -Shell. 
 
 Cream-of-Clam Soup. 
 Boiled Bass, Dutch Sauce. 
 Roast Leg of Mutton, Currant Jelly. 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Macaroni au Gratin. 
 Mashed Turnips. 
 
 Celery Salad. 
 
 Crackers. Cheese. 
 
 Brown Pudding, Wine Sauce. 
 
 Ice-cream. Sponge Fingers. Fruit. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 Oysters in the Half-Shell. 
 
 Imperial Soup. 
 
 Breaded Fillets of Bass, Tartar Saucf. 
 French Fried Potatoes. 
 
 Roast Chicken. 
 Dressed Celery. Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Orange Granite. 
 
 Roast Venison, Currant Sauce. 
 
 Escaloped Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Escarole Salad. 
 
 Chantilly Pudding. 
 
 Raspberry Sherbet. Coffee Mousse. 
 
 Fruit. Roasted Chestnuts. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 GENTLEMEN'S SUPPERS. 
 
 Spring. 
 
 Caviare on Toast. 
 Fried Trout. French Fried Potatoes. 
 
 Sliced Cucumbers. 
 
 Broiled Squab on Toast. 
 
 Rolls. Asparagus Points. 
 
 Sorrel-and-Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Rum Omelet. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 Fall. 
 
 Stuffed Oysters, Tartar Green Sauce. 
 
 Brown-Bread Toast. 
 
 Venison Steak. Currant Jelly. 
 
 Glazed Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Velvet Biscuit. 
 
 Olives. Crackers. Cheese. 
 
 Charlotte Russe. Fruit. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 Summer. 
 
 Anchovy Toast. Lobster Newburg. 
 
 Small Puff-Paste Cakes. 
 
 Roast Woodcock on Toast. 
 
 Green Peas. Fried Potato Ball$. 
 
 Cress Salad. Small Rolls. 
 
 Small Cheese Souffles. 
 
 Wine Jelly. Fruit. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 Winter. 
 
 Stuffed Olives. Toasted Crackers. 
 Fried Oysters on Fried Brown 
 Bread. 
 
 Celery Salad. 
 
 Broiled Grouse, Bread Sauce. 
 Rolls. Fried Potatoes. 
 
 Welsh Rare-bit. 
 
 Baked Sweet Apples, with Cream. 
 Fruit. Coffee. 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 915 
 
 PARTY SUPPERS. 
 
 Supper for a Dancing-Party of Fifty. 
 
 Twelve quarts of bouillon, eight quarts of escaloped oysters, eight 
 cold roast chickens, sliced, seventy-five bread-and-butter sandwiches, 
 one hundred small rolls, three bottles of olives, five baskets of cake, 
 fifteen quarts of coffee, fifteen quarts of ice-cream, eight pounds of 
 confectionery. 
 
 Supper for One Hundred Guests. 
 
 Twenty-five quarts of bouillon, one hundred and fifty chicken 
 sandwiches, ten quarts of oyster salad, ten quarts of chicken salad, 
 two hundred small rolls, five bottles of olives, eight baskets of cake, 
 twenty quarts of ice-cream (two kinds), fifteen quarts of sherbet 
 (two kinds), five pounds of salted almonds, five pounds of French 
 candied fruit, eight pounds of confectionery, thirty quarts of coffee. 
 An idea of the way the table should be set may be gained below. 
 As the bouillon should be served in cups, and the ices are not 
 served at the beginning of the repast, no place is allotted them on 
 the table. 
 
 Sandwiches. 
 
 Rolls. Rolls. 
 
 Olives. Salted Almonds. Olives. 
 
 Oyster Salad. Chicken Salad. 
 
 Cake. Candied Fruit. Cake. 
 
 Flowers. Confectionery. Flowers. Confectionery. Flowers. 
 
 Cake. Candied Fruit. Cake. 
 
 Chicken Salad. Oyster Salad. 
 
 Olives. Salted Almonds. Olives. 
 
 Rolls. Rolls. 
 
 Sandwiches. 
 
 Here is another bill of fare for a supper for one hundred guests : 
 One boned turkey, one boiled ham, eight quarts of chicken salad, 
 eight quarts of lobster salad, fifteen quarts of escaloped oysters, 
 five bottles of olives, two hundred bread-and-butter sandwiches, two 
 hundred small rolls, thirty quarts of coffee, eight baskets of cake, 
 
916 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 twenty quarts of ice-cream (two kinds), fifteen quarts of sherbet 
 (two kinds), eight pounds of confectionery. 
 
 Escaloped Oysters. 
 
 Olives. Olivet. 
 
 Chicken Salad. Lobster Salad. 
 
 s Rolls. Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches. Rolls. 
 
 * W 
 
 Cake. Confectionery. Cake. Confectionery. Cake. & 
 
 ^ Flowers. Cake. Flowers. Cake. Flowers. ?* 
 
 1 Cake. Confectionery. Cake. Confectionery. Cake. ^ 
 oq Rolls. Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches. Rolls. 
 
 Lobster Salad. Chicken Salad. 
 
 Olives. OKve$. 
 
 Escaloped Oysters. 
 
 WEDDING BREAKFASTS. 
 
 A wedding breakfast is really about the same thing as an ordi- 
 nary company luncheon ; but the party present is generally larger, 
 and more cold dishes and cake are provided. When the company 
 js a small one, it is best to have a hot meal if possible. No matter 
 what the number of guests may be, or how simple or elaborate the 
 breakfast, there are a few things which it is always desirable to have 
 upon the table, flowers, salted almonds or other salted nuts, 
 olives, fruit, and confectionery. Pains should be taken to use as 
 much dainty china and fine glassware as possible, to give the board 
 a bright and handsome appearance. 
 
 When oysters are in season, it is well to begin the breakfast with 
 them. If the company be large, there should be a plentiful supply 
 of small buttered rolls and thin bread-and-butter sandwiches. It is 
 also customary to have cake cut and put into boxes, to be handed 
 by a servant to the departing guests ; yet it is considered to be in 
 good taste to place the cake on the table and cut it there. 
 
 Here is a bill of fare for a nice breakfast for a small company. 
 It is not offered with the expectation that it will be adopted exactly 
 as printed, but rather with the view of suggesting some proper 
 dishes to provide. It should be remembered that this festal meal 
 is not to be served at eight o'clock or nine o'clock, but considerably 
 later, and that food which might not be relished at an early hour 
 may be eaten vith zest at eleven o'clock or noon. 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 917 
 
 Consomme in Cups. 
 
 Broiled Salmon, Maitre d'Rotd Butter. Potato Croquettes. 
 
 Lamb Chops. Green Peas. 
 
 Baked Sweetbreads, Bechamel Cream Sauce. Cauliflower in Cream Sauce- 
 Broiled Squabs on Toast. Sliced Tomatoes. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Orange Ice. Frozen Pudding. 
 
 Cake. Confectionery. Fruit. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 If the company is to be a large one, a different plan must be fol- 
 lowed. Suggestions of dishes will be offered below, and an attempt 
 made to give an idea how the table should be set. Ices and creams 
 are not to be served until after the other viands, and therefore no 
 place is allotted them on the table. 
 
 Chicken Consomme in Cups. 
 
 Boned Turkey. 
 
 Salted Almonds. Olivet. 
 
 Royal Croquettes. Chicken Patties. 
 
 Confectionery. Candied Fruit. ^ 
 
 Fruit. Cake. 
 
 Flowers. $ ? 
 
 ^ 05 
 
 Cake. Fruit. * f. 
 
 
 
 Candied Fruit. Confectionery. 
 
 Chicken Patties. Royal Croquette*. 
 
 Olivet. Salted Almonds. 
 
 Tongue in Jelly. 
 
 Strawberry Ice-cream. Macaroon Ice-cream. 
 
 Orange Ice. Lemon Ice. 
 
 Chocolate. Coffee. 
 
 THANKSGIVING AND CHRISTMAS. 
 
 During the week preceding Thanksgiving the New England 
 housekeeper is a busy woman. All over the country, but especially 
 in New England, men and women look forward to the holiday as a 
 time for going to old homes, a family day. At.no other time in 
 
918 
 
 MISS PARMA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 the year do so many large family-gatherings take place. It is de- 
 sirable to preserve the characteristics of the old-fashioned dinner, 
 yet the addition of some comparatively modern dishes improves the 
 meal. The following bills of fare are as elaborate as need be, and 
 may be reduced to suit the convenience and resources of house- 
 keepers who have no cook to assist them. If everything before the 
 roast turkey in the first two bills be omitted, the preparation of the 
 dinner ought not to tax the strength or ability of an average 
 housekeeper. When many dishes are to be served, the quantity of 
 each may of course be much smaller than when there are only two 
 or three courses. 
 
 Mince pies are better for being kept a week after baking. Tarts 
 may be prepared the day before they are wanted. If it be incon- 
 venient to bake the chicken pie on Thanksgiving Day, bake it on the 
 previous day and warm it for the dinner. Vegetables may be pre- 
 pared for cooking and kept in a cold place. Cranberry jelly may be 
 made, nuts cracked, apples wiped, grapes and pears put in a cold 
 place, raisins and nuts arranged in dishes, turkeys stuffed and made 
 ready for roasting. Remember that the chief aim is to produce hap- 
 piness, and that many of the company will not be wholly happy if the 
 mistress of the household must pass a good part of the day in the 
 kitchen. On this account the greater the preparations made in 
 advance the better, so as to relieve the housekeeper of as many 
 duties and as much anxiety as possible on the holiday. 
 
 Thanksgiving Dinners. 
 
 Oysters in Ice, with Thin Slices of 
 Buttered Brown or Graham 
 Bread. 
 
 Cream-of-Rice Soup. 
 
 Boiled Turkey, Oyster Sauce. 
 
 Mashed Turnips. Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Plain Celery. 
 Roast Turkey, Giblet Sauce. 
 
 Chicken Pie. 
 Dressed Celery. Cranberry Jelly. 
 
 Cauliflower. Squash. 
 Mashed and Browned Potatoes. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Thanksgiving Pudding, Wine Sauce. 
 Apple Pie. Squash Pie. Mince Pie. 
 
 Strawberry Tarts. 
 
 Crackers. Cheese. Olives. 
 
 Salted Almonds. Fruit. Co/ee. 
 
 Oyster Soup. 
 
 Boiled Turkey, Oyster Sauce. 
 
 Masked Potatoes. 
 
 Mashed Turnips. 
 
 Roast Turkey, Chestnut Sauce. 
 
 Chicken Pie. 
 Celery. Cranberry Sauce. 
 
 Squash. Potato Puffs. 
 
 Sweet Potatoes. Cauliflower. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Mince Pie. Squash Pie. 
 
 Apple Pie. Cheese. 
 
 Apricot fee-cream. Cake 
 
 Apples. Oranges. Grapes. 
 
 Nuts.. Raisins. 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 919 
 
 Consomme. 
 
 Oysters a la Poulette. 
 
 Roast Turkey, Giblet Sauce. 
 
 Cranberry Jelly. Celery. 
 
 Cauliflower au Gratin. 
 
 Potato Timbale. 
 
 Orange Salad. 
 
 Roast Saddle of Venison, Claret 
 Sauce. 
 
 Currant Jelly. 
 Glazed Siveet Potatoes. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Crackers. Cheese. Olive*. 
 
 Wine Jelly. 
 
 Charlotte Ruise. 
 
 Fruit. Confectionery. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 Christmas Dinners. 
 
 Raio Oysters. 
 
 Consomme a la Royale. 
 
 Baked Kennebec Salmon, Lobster 
 
 Sauce. 
 
 Boiled Potato Balls, with Parsley 
 Butter. 
 
 Roast Goose, with Apple Sauce. 
 Cauliflower. Potato Puffs. 
 
 Coffee Granite. 
 
 Canvas-back Duck, Orange Sauce. 
 
 Dressed Celery. French Peas. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. Cheese Fingers. 
 
 Plum Pudding, Brandy Sauce. 
 
 Pistachio Ice-cream. 
 
 Orange Sherbet. 
 
 Cake. Fruit. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 Oyster Bisque. 
 Turbans of Halibut Baked in White 
 
 Sauce. 
 Potato Cubes, with Parsley Butter. 
 
 Roast Turkey. 
 
 Cranberry Sauce. Celery. 
 
 Cauliflower. Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Roast Duck. 
 
 Currant Jelly. 
 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Dressed Celery. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Fruit Pudding, Wine Sauce. 
 Mince Pie. Apple Pie. 
 
 Jce-cream. Lady's Cake. 
 
 Salted Ptanuls. Fruit. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 LUNCHES FOR TENNIS PARTIES. 
 
 In planning to provide a luncheon for a party of lawn-tennis 
 players one should remember that although so much exercise is 
 taken by the ladies and gentlemen that something ought to be ready 
 for quenching their thirst, it will be unwise to set forth ice-water. 
 Hot or iced tea will be better, and will give more satisfaction. Place 
 it where the players can get a cup readily. The tea may be kept hot a 
 long time by setting the pot under a " cosey," a wadded cover ; or 
 if one possess a genuine Chinese teapot, it may be kept hot and good 
 for hours. At luncheon-time there should be fresh tea to serve 
 with sandwiches, bread-and-butter, and cake. Never yield to the 
 temptation to have an elaborate spread. A tennis-court is not the 
 place for it for at least two reasons : enthusiastic players do not care 
 to be called from their sport for the time necessary for the proper 
 serving of a variety of viands, and they are likely to resume playing 
 
920 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 so soon after any refreshment has been taken that the digestive 
 organs will be burdened unless the food be simple. Following art- 
 receipts for a few things which are good to provide : 
 
 Chicken Sandwiches. Suppose that twenty sandwiches are 
 wanted. Use a quart of fine-chopped cooked chicken, forty thin 
 slices of bread at least a day old, a table-spoonful of salt, half a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, the yolks of six eggs that have been boiled for 
 twenty minutes, half a cupful of milk or cream, half a cupful of 
 butter, and half a teaspoonful of onion juice, obtained by peeling 
 an onion and squeezing it : an operation described in the chapter en- 
 titled " What All Housekeepers Should Know." 
 
 Put the yolks into a bowl, and mash them with a fork or spoon 
 until smooth and light. Add half a teaspoonful of the salt and a 
 grain of pepper. Put the butter into a warm cup, and beat it until 
 creamy ; then add two table-spoonfuls of it to the yolks. Gradually 
 add the cream or milk, and then the onion juice. Stir the mixture 
 until it is as smooth and light as a salad-dressing. Mix the re- 
 mainder of the salt and pepper with the chopped chicken ; then add 
 the dressing, mixing thoroughly. Spread the remaining butter 
 lightly upon the bread, and afterward spread the chicken in the same 
 way. Fold the sandwiches in a napkin, and keep them in a cool 
 place until wanted. They will look a little nicer if the crusts be 
 trimmed off. It will not make much difference in the taste if no 
 butter be spread upon the bread. 
 
 Sardine Sandwiches. For twenty sandwiches take two boxes ot 
 boneless sardines, half a cupful of butter, the yolks of six hard- 
 boiled eggs, four table-spoonfuls of lemon juice, one-tenth of a 
 teaspoonful of cayenne, half a teaspoonful of salt, and forty thin 
 slices of bread. 
 
 Mash the yolks till light and fine, and add the lemon juice, salt, 
 and pepper to them. After pouring the oil away from the fish, put 
 them into a mortar or bowl, and pound .them to a smooth paste. 
 Add the egg mixture, and blend all the ingredients as smoothly as 
 possible. Toast the bread delicately, and butter it lightly. Spread 
 twenty slices with the sardine mixture, and cover with the remain- 
 ing slices. With a sharp knife cut each sandwich into three strips. 
 
 Iced Tea. For a dozen tumblers of tea use twelve teaspoonfuls 
 of Oolong tea, twelve tumblers of water, and about two quarts of 
 broken ice, not very fine. Wash the ice until it is perfectly 
 clean, and put it into the vessel in which the tea is to be made. 
 Pour in the water, and then sprinkle in the dry tea. Cover, and set 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 921 
 
 in the refrigerator or some other cool place for four or, better still, 
 six hours. The drink will be found strong and exhilarating. 
 
 WHAT TO TAKE TO PICNICS. 
 
 At some seasons of the year the question what eatables to take to 
 picnics arises so frequently that a few suggestions may be accept- 
 able. Many people lose sight of the fact that good bread and butter 
 and cold meat are articles of which there should be an ample supply, 
 even at the cost of going without some delicacies. A small spirit- 
 lamp will enable one to get, with very little trouble, a cup of hot 
 tea, coffee, or chocolate. Here is a short list of good things from 
 which to make selections for a luncheon in the woods : Buttered 
 thin bread, buttered rolls, pressed chicken, broiled chicken, tongue, 
 ham, pressed corned beef, sardines, stuffed eggs, hard-boiled eggs, 
 broiled smoked salmon, pickles, olives, crackers and cheese, orange 
 marmalade, hard gingerbread, cake, cold coffee, cold tea, lemonade. 
 There are many fruit syrups which, mixed with cold water, make 
 palatable drinks. Lemon juice for lemonade should be extracted at 
 home, and carried to the picnic-grounds in bottles. The sugar may 
 be put with it, or added with the water when the lemonade is wanted. 
 When ice can be transported, the bill of fare may be improved 
 greatly. For example, salads may be packed in ice, and they will be 
 found tempting when dinner is announced. Ice-cream and sherbet 
 also will make the meal seem a hundred per cent better on a hot 
 day, and a little ice in the lemonade will make it so much more re- 
 freshing as to repay one for the trouble of carrying the ice. But 
 have good bread and butter anyway. It is well to distribute crack- 
 ers and cheese among the party on first reaching the grounds, so as 
 to relieve any feeling of faintness. 
 
 FAMILY BILLS FOR ALL SEASONS. 
 January. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Hominy and Milk. 
 
 Broiled Pigs 1 Feet. 
 
 Raked Potatoes. Plain Omelet. 
 
 Corn Bread. Toast. 
 
 Rice Griddle-eakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Oysters au Gi'atin. 
 
 Toasted Crackers. Luncheon Roll* 
 
 Oranges. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
922 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Tomato Soup. 
 Boiled Fowl, with Macaroni Stuffing 
 
 and Bechamel Sauce. 
 Stewed Celery. Mashed Turnips. 
 Macaroni, with Bechamel Sauce. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Brown Pudding, Wine Sauce. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Broiled Salt Fish. 
 
 Toasted Pilot Bread. Rolls. 
 
 Sponge Cake. Canned Peaches. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 Broiled Salt Mackerel. 
 
 Escaloped Potatoes. 
 
 Graham Muffins. Toast. 
 
 Bread Griddle-cakes. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Ragout of Mutton. 
 Turnips. Potatoes. Carrots. 
 Boiled Rice Pudding, with Soft Cus- 
 tard. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Broiled Kidneys. Cream-of- Tartar 
 Biscuit. 
 
 Soft Molasses Gingerbread. 
 
 Baked Apples. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oranges. 
 Fricassee of Chicken. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. 
 Rye Muffins. Toast. 
 
 Buckwheat Cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Broiled Cod or White Fish, with 
 
 Maitre d 1 Hotel Butter. 
 Mashed Potatoes. Stewed Tomatoes. 
 Baked Apples. Cream Cookies. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Cream-of-Rice Soup. 
 Broiled Beefsteak. 
 
 Fried Onions. 
 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Rice Fritters. Dressed Celery. 
 
 Cold Cabinet Pudding, Chocolate 
 
 Sauce. 
 
 lers. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Steioed 
 
 Toasted Crackers. Rolls. 
 
 Currant Cake. Preserves. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Pearled Wheat. 
 
 Baked Sausages. Potato Cakes. 
 
 Rolls. Fried Hominy. Toast. 
 
 DINNER. 
 Baked Fish. 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Vegetable Salad. 
 Custard Meringue Pudding. 
 
 Squash. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Baked Omelet. 
 
 Milk Toast. Graham Bread. 
 
 Cup Cake. Sliced Oranges. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 Fish Chowder. 
 
 Cold Meat. Baked Potatoes. 
 
 Toasted Crackers. Marmalade. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Cream-of-Clam Soup. 
 Roast Venison, Currant Jelly Sauce. 
 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
 Escaloped Onions. Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Orange Charlotte. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Egg Nests. Toast. 
 
 Velvet Biscuit. 
 
 Cream Walnut Cake. 
 
 Tea. 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 923 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Hominy. 
 
 Pork Chops. Baked Potatoes. 
 Sj)ider Corn Cake. Toast. 
 
 DINNER. 
 Roast Beef. 
 
 Boiled Rice. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Canadian Apple Pudding. 
 
 Squash. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Lyonnaite Potatoes. Milk Toast. 
 
 Graham Rolls. 
 Cake. Preserves. Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Baked Apples. 
 Ham and Eggs. 
 
 Boiled Hominy. Stewed Potatoes. 
 Raised Muffins. Toast. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Fricassee of Beef . 
 
 Boiled Potato Balls. 
 
 Stewed Carrots. 
 
 French Pancakes, with Jelly. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Tapioca Soup. 
 Boiled Bass, Hollandaise Sauce. 
 
 Potato Puffs. 
 Chicken Cutlets, Mushroom White 
 
 Sauce. 
 
 French Peas. Celery. 
 
 Prune Pudding. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Broiled Sardines on Toast. 
 
 Tea Rolls. 
 Cake. Sliced Oranges. Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 
 Fish Hash. Brown Bread. 
 
 Fried Raised Cakes. Toast. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Braised Beef. 
 
 Carrots. Turnips. 
 
 Baked Macaroni and Cheese. 
 
 Indian Pudding. 
 
 Cold Meat. 
 
 Tea Cakes. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Escaloped Potatoes. 
 Rolls. 
 
 Stewed Prunes- 
 Tea. 
 
 February. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Graham Mush. 
 Deviled Turkey. 
 
 Fried Sweet Potatoes. 
 Breakfast Rolls. Toast. 
 
 Buckwheat Cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Mutton Croquettes. 
 
 Princess Potatoes. 
 
 Cream-of -Tartar Biscuit. 
 
 Coddled Apples. Tea. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Consomme with Rice. 
 Roast Turkey, Giblet Sauce. 
 
 Celery. Cranberry Sauce. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes. Squash. 
 
 French Vegetable Salad. 
 Grapes. Oranges. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Broiled Smoked Salmon. 
 
 Cracker Cream Toast. 
 
 Granulated Wheat Muffins. 
 
 Cake. Preserves, 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 
 Hashed Beef on Toast. 
 
 Stewed Potatoes. Graham Rolls. 
 
 Bread Griddle-cakes. 
 
924 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Roast Loin of Pork. 
 Hot Brown Bread. Apple Sauce. 
 Potatoes. Squash. Turnips. 
 Baked Rice Pudding. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Broiled Smoked Herrings. 
 
 Thin Corn Bread. 
 
 Toast. Warm Molasses Gingerbread. 
 Cocoa. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Hominy. 
 
 Broiled Southern Shad. Radishes. 
 Bermuda Potatoes, with Parsley 
 
 Butter. 
 
 Corn Muffins. Toast. 
 
 Rice Griddle-cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Garburea la Printaniere. Toast. 
 Hot Tea Cake. Coddled Apples. 
 Coffee. 
 
 DINNER. 
 Oyster Soup. 
 
 Roast Chicken. Cranberry Sauce. 
 Spinach. Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Rice. 
 
 Celery Salad. 
 Coffee Jelly, with Whipped Cream. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Cold Chicken. 
 
 Rolls. Cold Bread. Waffles. 
 Sliced Oranges. Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Fruit. Oatmeal. 
 
 Salt Fish in Cream Sauce. 
 
 Poached Eggs. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. Rice Muffins. 
 
 Griddle-cakes. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Cream-of-Rice Soup. 
 
 Roast Ptarmigan, Bread Sauce. 
 
 Spinach. Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Celery Salad. 
 
 Crackers. Cheese. 
 
 Orange Charlotte. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Escaloped Meat. Tea Rolls. 
 
 Feather Cake. Baked Apples. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 Baked Salt Mackerel, with Cream 
 
 Sauce. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. Corn Bread. 
 
 Bread Griddle-cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Broiled Fish, Matire d'Hdtel Butter. 
 
 Potato Balls in Cream Sauce. 
 Spice Cake. Coffee. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Clear Soup. Roast Beef. 
 
 Roasted Potatoes. Stewed Celery. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Salted Almonds. 
 
 Crackers and Cheese. 
 
 Cider Jelly. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Broiled English Bacon. 
 
 Thin Fried Potatoes. 
 
 Muffins. Toast. Tea. 
 
 Cake. Marmalade. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Cracked Wheat. Hashed Mutton. 
 
 Poached Eggs. 
 Hashed and Browned Potatoes. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Clam Chowder. Beefsteak. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 Baked Sweat Potatoes. 
 
 Celery Salad. 
 Sponge Pudding, Wine Sauce. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Creamed Oysters. 
 
 Tea Cake. 
 
 Cocoa. 
 
 Rolls. 
 Baked Apples. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 
 Broiled Ham. Creamed Eggs. 
 
 Graham Muffins. Waffles. 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 926 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Terrapin Chicken. 
 
 Rolls. Baked Apples. 
 
 Crackers. Cheese. Coffee. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Halibut au Gratin. 
 
 Fillet of Beef, Bearnaise Sauce. 
 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes. Noodles. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Imperial Pudding. 
 
 SUPPEB. 
 
 Baked Eggs. French Toast. 
 
 Queen's Cake. Preserves. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Corn-Meal Mush. 
 
 Fried Sausages. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. Rye Muffins. 
 
 Rice Griddle-cakes. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Boiled Corned Beef. 
 Cabbage. Turnips. 
 Carrots. 
 Apple-and-Rice Pudding. 
 
 Potatoes. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Fried Smelts. Potato Omelet. 
 Cracker-and-Milk Toast. 
 
 Graham Bread. 
 
 Gingerbread. Apple Sauce, 
 
 Tea. 
 
 March. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 
 Jieefsteak. Eggs on Toast. 
 
 Hashed and Browned Potatoes. 
 
 Graham Puffs. 
 
 Griddle-cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Tewapin Veal. Stewed Tomatoes. 
 Rolls. Chocolate. Ginger-snaps. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Bisque of Beef. 
 Oyster Cutlets, Anchovy Sauce. 
 
 Potted Pigeons. 
 Potato Puffs. Stewed Carrots. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Olives. Crackers. Cheese. 
 
 Steamed Batter Pudding. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Fish Omelet. Broiled Potatoes. 
 
 Split Biscuit. Coddled Apples. 
 
 Cake. Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Wheat Germ Mush. 
 
 Baked Hash. Tomato Omelet. 
 
 Hominy Muffin*. Toast. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Irish Steiv. Macaroni with Cheese. 
 Peach-and-Tapioca Pudding. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Scrambled Kggs. 
 
 Toast. Parker House Rolls. 
 
 Cake. Preserves. 
 
 Tea or Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Hominy. Bananas. 
 
 Broiled Steak. 
 Potatoes Hashed and Browned in 
 
 Cream. 
 
 Baltimore Corn Bread. Toast. 
 
 Buckwheat Cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Cold Meat. 
 Egg Timbales, with Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Fried Sweet Potatoes. 
 Apple Tartlet. Tea. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Noodle Soup. 
 
 Baked Red Snapper, Hollandaist 
 Sauce. 
 
926 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Hashed Potatoes. Minced Spinach. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Crackers and Cheese. 
 Steamed Cottage Pudding, Straio- 
 berry Sauce. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Broiled Ham. Federal Loaf. 
 
 Cake. Preserves. Coffee. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Cracked Wheat. 
 
 Broiled Fish. 
 
 Creamed Potatoes. Graham Toast. 
 Muffins Fried on the Griddle. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Moiled Flank of Beef . 
 Potatoes. Creamed Cabbage. 
 
 Squash. 
 
 Beet Salad. 
 
 Quaking Pudding, Vanilla Sauce. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Escaloped Oysters. 
 
 Rolls. Toasted Crackers. 
 
 Stewed Prunes. Cookies. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 
 Fricawee of Chicken. Boiled Eggs. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. Rolls. 
 
 Hominy Griddle-calces. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Savory Beef Collops. 
 Fried Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Luncheon Rolls. 
 Molasses Gingerbread. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 White Soup. 
 Broiled Fish, Dutch Sauce. 
 
 Riced Potatoes. 
 Braised Veal. 
 Boiled Parsnips. Minced Spinach. 
 
 Cheese Fondue. 
 Vanilla let-cream. Chocolate Cake. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Welsh Rare-bit. Tea Biscuit. 
 
 Canned Peaches. Sponge Cake. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Hominy. 
 Fried Liver and Bacon. 
 
 Escaloped Potatoes. 
 Corn Bread. Toast. 
 
 Graham Griddle-cakes. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Fish Chowder. 
 
 Beefsteak. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes. Squash. 
 
 Brown Betty Pudding. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Milk Toast. 
 Cream-of-Tartar Biscuit. 
 
 Baked Apples. 
 Canada Gingerbread. Cocoa. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Cracked Wheat. 
 Fricassee of Veal. 
 
 Princess Potatoes. 
 Dropped Eggs on Toast. Rolls. 
 Hominy Griddle-cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 Stewed Oysters. 
 
 Cold Ham. Baked Potatoes. 
 
 Cake. Sliced Oranges. Tea. 
 
 DINNER. 
 White Soup. 
 
 Fillets of Halibut a la Poulette, with 
 White Sauce and Potato Cro- 
 quettes. 
 
 Mutton-chops. 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Cauliflower in Cream 
 Chantilly Tartt. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Broiled Ham. Lyonnaise Potatoes. 
 
 Baked Apples. Toast. 
 Cake. Tea. 
 
 Rolls. 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 927 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 Hominy and Milk. 
 Salt Codfish, Cream Sauce. 
 
 Poached Eggs. 
 Baked Potatoes. 
 Cream-of '-Tartar Biscuit. 
 Buckwheat Cakes. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Cream-of -Tapioca Soup. 
 Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce. 
 
 Potatoes. Mashed Turnips. 
 Boiled Salsify, with Butter Sauce. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Bread Pudding, Vanilla Sauee. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Broiled Bacon. Toasted Crackers. 
 
 Tea Rolls. Cake. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 April. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Hominy Flakes. 
 Broiled Kidneys. 
 
 Stewed Potatoes. 
 
 Tomato Omelet. 
 
 Entire- Wheat Muffins. Toast. 
 Bread Griddle-cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Ti/nbale of Cold Meat, Brown Sauce. 
 
 Macaroni, with Cheese. 
 
 Delicate Molasses Gingerbread. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Puree of Tomatoes. 
 
 Roast Antelope. 
 Currant Jelly Sauce. 
 
 Chutney Sauce. 
 Minced Spinach. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 Chicory Salad. 
 Frozen Apricots. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Broiled Smoked Herrings. 
 Rolls. Toasted Brown Bread. 
 
 Sponge Cake. 
 
 Strawberry Preserve. 
 Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Corn-Meal Mush. 
 
 Salt-Fish Hath. Poached Egga. 
 
 Rolls. Toast. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Roast Beef. 
 
 Macaroni. Potatoes. 
 Tapioca Cream. 
 
 Squash. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Omelet. Brown-Bread Toast. 
 
 Stewed Prunes. Cup Cake. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 Cracked Wheat. 
 
 Broiled Ham. 
 Potatoes au Gratin. 
 
 Sliced Tomatoes. 
 Scrambled Eggs. Toast. 
 Corn Muffins. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Escaloped Meat. 
 
 Macaroni a la Milanaise. 
 
 Mocha Cake. Coffee. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Okra Soup. 
 
 Broiled Whitejish, Parsley Butter. 
 
 Roast Capon. New Potatoes. 
 
 'Cauliflower. Stewed Oyster Plant. 
 
 Sorrel Salad. 
 Strawberry Mousse. Cake. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Swiss Eggs. 
 
 Toast. Cream-of- Tartar Biscuit. 
 
 Orange Marmalade. Crackers. 
 
 Tea. 
 
928 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 
 Baked Rice and Sausages. 
 Dropped Eggs on Toast. Rolls. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Roast Leg of Mutton. 
 
 Currant Jelly. Cauliflower. 
 
 Washed White Turnips. Potatoes. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Cream Pudding. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Fried Smelts. 
 
 Glazed Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Cream-of- Tartar Biscuit. Toast. 
 
 Cake. Preserves. Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 Broiled Halibut. Stewed Potatoes. 
 
 Trenton Corn Bread. Toast. 
 
 Buckwheat Cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Cold Meat. 
 
 Potato Salad. Rolls. 
 Cake. Canned Peaches. Tea. 
 
 DlNNBR. 
 
 Cream-of-Barley Soup. 
 Broiled Mutton Chops. 
 Vegetables a la Jardiniere. 
 
 Potato Puffs. 
 
 Lettuce-and-Radish Salad. 
 Sunset Pudding. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Broiled Sardines on Toast. 
 
 Pop- Overs. Waffles.^ 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Fruit. 
 Force-meat Cakes. 
 
 Broiled Potatoes. 
 Indian-Bread Brewis. 
 Rolls. Coffee. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Tapioca Soup. 
 
 Braised Shoulder of Veal. 
 
 Beet Greens. Potatoes. 
 
 Sliced Tomatoes. 
 
 Cucumber Salad. 
 
 Custard Pudding. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Cream Toast. Tea^olla. 
 
 Cake. Stewed Peach. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Yellow Corn-Meal Mush. 
 
 Broiled Mackerel. 
 Lyonnaise Potatoes. 
 
 Radishes. 
 Hominy Waffles. 
 
 Rolls. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Fricassee of Cold Roast Beef. 
 
 Rice. Swedish Rolls. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Sorrel Soup. 
 Baked Shad, Sauce Allemande. 
 
 Green Peas. 
 Breaded Mutton Cutlets, Tomato 
 
 Sauce. 
 
 Potatoes. Mashed Parsnips. 
 
 Water Crackers. Cheese. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Lady Fingers. Tapioca Custard. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Fried Scallops, with Water-cresses. 
 
 Raised Muffins. Toast. 
 
 Cake. Preserves. Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Fruit. 
 Broiled Calf's Liver. 
 
 Hashed Potatoes. 
 Plain Omelet. 
 Corn Bread. Toa$t. 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 929 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 
 Ragout of Mutton. 
 Turnips. Boiled Rice. Carrots. 
 Blanc-mange. 
 
 Rolls. 
 Cake. 
 
 Frizzled Beef. 
 Toast. 
 Canned Peaches. 
 Tea. 
 
 May. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Fruit. 
 White Fricassee of Chicken. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. 
 Raised Muffins. Toast. 
 
 Rice Griddle-cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Blanquette of Veal. 
 
 Turkish Rice. Rolls. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Potato Soup. 
 Fried Brook Trout. Brown Bread. 
 
 Roast Lamb, Piquant Sauce. 
 String Beans. Stuffed Egg-plant. 
 
 Tomato Salad. 
 Frozen Rice Pudding. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Broiled Smoked Salmon. 
 Cream Toast. 
 
 Granulated Wheat Muffins. 
 Feather Cake. Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Boiled Eggs. 
 E$caloped Potatoes. 
 
 Minced Beef on Toast. 
 Hominy Muffins. Graham Bread. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Boiled Fowl, Butter Sauce. 
 Asparagus. Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Turnips. 
 
 Macaroni, with Cream Sauce. 
 Sliced Pineapple. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Egg Salad. 
 
 Toast. Sally Lunn. 
 
 Stewed Prunes. Queen Cake. 
 
 Cocoa. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 
 Fried English Bacon. 
 
 Thin Fried Potatoes. Boiled Egg.. 
 
 Raised Wheat Muffins. Toast. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Blanquette of Calf's Liver. 
 
 Stewed Macaroni. 
 Swedish Rolls. Coffee. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Chicken Broth. 
 Boiled Fish, White Sauce. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Beefsteak, Mushroom Sauce. 
 
 Asparagus. New Beets. 
 
 Dandelion Salad. 
 
 Pineapple Jelly. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Broiled Sweetbreads, Cream Sauce. 
 
 Rolls. Toast. 
 
 Cake. Marmalade. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Fish Balh. Fried Mush. 
 
 Rolls. Toast. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Potato Soup. 
 
 Mutton Cutlets, Breaded, with 
 mato Sauce. 
 
 To- 
 
930 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Fried Salsify. 
 
 Dressed Lettuce. Crackers. 
 
 Oranges and Bananas. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Broiled Smoked Herring. 
 Rolls. Cracker Toast. 
 
 Rhubarb Sauce. 
 
 Thin Gingerbread. 
 Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 
 Minced Veal. Fish Croquettes. 
 
 Radishes. Rolls. Toast. 
 
 Hominy Griddle-cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Fricassee of Lobster. 
 
 Boiled Rice. 
 
 Toast. Tea. 
 
 Canned Pears, with Cream. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Duchess Soup. 
 
 Lamb Cutlets, Asparagus Sauce. 
 
 Casserole of Potatoes. Green Peas. 
 
 Escaloped Calves 1 Brains. 
 
 Roasted Cheese. 
 
 Wine Custard. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Deviled Ham. 
 
 Hashed Potatoes. Rolls. 
 
 Spice Cake. Preserves. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Granulated Yellow Corn Meal Mush. 
 
 Broiled Tripe. 
 
 Baked Eggs. Potato Omelet. 
 
 Rolls. Toast. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Beefsteak. 
 Boiled Rice. Stewed Tomatoes. 
 
 Canned Corn. 
 Tapioca Pudding. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Spiced Salmon. 
 
 Pop-Overs. Toast. Cottage Cheete 
 Cake. Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 Wheat Germ Mush. 
 Brown Fricassee of Sheep's Tongues. 
 Plain Omelet. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. 
 Graham Pop-Overs. Toast. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 Broiled Fish, Maitre d'Hdtel Butter. 
 
 Potato Balls. Cucumbers. 
 Toasted Soda Crackers. 
 
 Orange Marmalade. 
 Tea. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Cream of Clams. 
 
 Roast Lamb. 
 
 Mint Sauce. Brown Gravy. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes. Asparagus. 
 
 Sliced Tomatoes. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Alpine Pudding. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Curried Eggs. 
 
 Potato Rolls. Chocolate. Toast 
 
 Sponge Cake. 
 Strawberries and Cream. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Fruit. 
 Corned- Beef Hash. 
 
 Dropped Eggs on Toast. 
 Rolls. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Broiled Fish. 
 
 Braised Calf's Liver. 
 
 Potatoes. Boiled Turnipt. 
 
 Dandelions. 
 Corn-starch Blanc-mange. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Broiled Bacon. 
 
 Toatt. 
 
 Cake. 
 
 Preserves. 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 981 
 
 June. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Sliced Pineapple. 
 Broiled Mackerel. 
 
 Hashed Potatoes. 
 Eggs on Toast. Crumpets. 
 Indian Griddle-cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Steamed Clams. Toasted Crackers. 
 Fruit. feed Tea. Cake. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Julienne Soup. 
 Baked Sweetbreads, Cream Sauce. 
 
 Asparagus. 
 Roast Lamb, with Mint and Brown 
 
 Sauce. 
 String Beans. New Potatoes. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Philadelphia Ice-cream. 
 
 Vienna Wafers. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Deviled Biscuit. Rolls. 
 
 Chocolate. Little Fancy Cakes. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Graham Mush, with Milk. 
 Broiled Salt Fish. Baked Potatoes. 
 Entire-Wheat Muffins. Toast. 
 Berries and Cream. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Cream-of- Tapioca Soup. 
 
 Boiled Fowl, White Sauce. 
 
 Green Peas. New Potatoes. 
 
 Summer Squash. 
 
 Cucumber Salad. 
 
 Raspberry Jelly. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Milk Toatt. Cold Fowl. Rolls. 
 
 Cakt. 
 
 Sliced Pineapple. 
 Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Corn-Meal Mush. 
 Cuban Eggs. Broiled Bacon. 
 
 Creamed Potatoes. 
 Butter Toast. Graham Muffins. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Salt Fish in Cream Sauce, with Puree 
 
 of Potatoes. 
 Strawberry Short-cake. Tea. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Clam Soup. 
 
 Brown Fricassee of Veal. 
 
 Boiled Salsify. Minced Spinach . 
 
 Curried Rice. 
 
 Spinach Salad. 
 
 Crackers. Cheese. 
 
 Velvet Pudding. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Milk Toast. Cold Meat. Rolls. 
 
 Strawberries. 
 Cocoa. 
 
 Cake. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Strawberries. Hominy. 
 Broiled Breakfast Bacon. 
 
 Soft Boiled Eggs. 
 Graham Puffs. Toast. 
 Griddle-cakes. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Crab-and-Tomato Bisque. 
 Roast Lamb, Mint Sauce. 
 
 Asparagus. 
 
 Carrots, with Cream Sauce, 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Bananas with Whipped Cream. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Frizzled Beef. 
 
 Tea Rolls. Toast, 
 
 Preserves. Ice-cream Cake. 
 
 Tea. 
 
932 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Strawberries. 
 Mutton Croquettes. 
 
 Salt Fish in Cream. 
 Potato Balls, Parsley Sauce. 
 Rolls. Rice Griddle-cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 Jellied Chicken. 
 
 French Fried Potatoes. * Olives. 
 
 Toast. Chocolate. 
 
 Lemon Cream. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Normandy Soup. 
 Halibut a la Creole. Boiled Rice. 
 
 Stuffed Breast of Veal. 
 Brown Gravy. 
 
 Grated Horseradish. 
 Creamed Onions. 
 Mashed Potatoes. Green Peas. 
 
 Sorrel Salad. 
 
 Strawberry Ice-cream. 
 
 Delicate Cake. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Broiled Bacon. 
 
 Raited Wheat Waffles. Toast. 
 
 Cake. Pineapple. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Strawberries. Hominy. 
 
 Lamb Chops. Baked Potatoes. 
 
 Baked Oatmeal Muffins. 
 
 Toast. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Fricassee of Chicken. 
 Gre en Peas. Boiled Rice . 
 
 New Potatoes. 
 Lettuce-and-Radish Salad. 
 Graham Pudding. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Poached Eggs. Cream Biscuit. 
 
 Berrie$. Hard Gingerbread. 
 
 Tea. Toast. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 Salt Fish and Egys in Cream Sauce. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. Toast. 
 
 Entire- Wheat Muffins. 
 
 Bread Griddle-cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Ragout of Mutton. 
 Escaloped Tomatoes. Rolls. 
 
 Strawberries and Cream. 
 Sponge Cake. Tea. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Baked Salmon Trout, Brown Sauce. 
 Princess Potatoes. Cucumbers. 
 
 Roast Capon, Bread Sauce. 
 
 Green Peas. String Beans. 
 
 Crackers and Cheese. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Charlotte Russe. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Frizzled Beef. 
 
 Milk Toast. Parker House Rolls. 
 
 Cake. Berries. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Baked Oatmeal. 
 
 Cold Meat. 
 
 Tomato Omelet. Fried Potatoes. 
 
 Spider Corn Cake. 
 
 Graham Toast. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Fricassee of Cold Meat, with Baked 
 
 Dumplings. 
 
 Mashed Turnip. Minced Spinach. 
 Leche Crema. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Egg Salad. 
 
 Toast. Cocoa. 
 
 Orange Marmalade. 
 
 Soda Cracken. 
 
 Rolls. 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 933 
 
 July. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Berries. 
 
 Broiled Chicken. 
 Baked Potatoes. 
 
 Water-cresses and Tomatoes on Ice. 
 Rolls. Toast. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Eicaloped Shrimps. 
 
 Cold Tongue. Potato Omelet. 
 
 Toast. Iced Tea. 
 
 Bananas. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Mock Turtle Soup. 
 Breaded Fillets of Flounder, Tomato 
 
 Sauce. 
 Lamb Chops, Mattre d'Hdtel Butter. 
 
 Green Peas. Mashed Potatoes. 
 Russian Jelly. Soft Custard. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Jellied Calf J s Head. Olives. 
 French Toast. 
 
 Cream-of -Tartar Biscuit. 
 Chocolate. Wafers. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 Meat and Rice Croquettes. 
 
 Dropped Eggs on Toast. 
 
 Graham Muffins. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Tapioca Soup. 
 
 Roast Beef. 
 
 Potatoes. Summer Squash. 
 
 Cauliflower. 
 
 Dressed Cucumbers. 
 Peaches and Cream. Cake. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Thin-sliced Cold Boiled Ham. 
 
 Thin-tliced Bread. 
 Sttwed Pears. Cake. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Fruit. Hominy. 
 
 Eggs on Toast. Fish Balls. 
 
 Rolls. Boston Brown Bread. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Bean Soup. Toasted Bread. 
 
 Cold Meat. Sliced Tomatoes. 
 
 Blackberries. Feather Cake. 
 
 Iced Tea. 
 
 DINNER. 
 Fillets of Halibut, a la Poulette. 
 
 Boiled Potato Balls. 
 
 Lamb Chops. Green Peas. 
 
 New Beets. Cauliflower. 
 
 Water-cress Salad. 
 
 Frozen Raspberries. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Jellied Veal. 
 
 Cream-of- Tartar Biscuit. 
 
 Berries. Cake. Tea 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Hominy. 
 
 Broiled Fish. Escaloped Potatoes. 
 
 Graham Rolls. Toast. 
 
 Rice Griddle-cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Brown Fricassee of Veal. 
 Boiled Rice. String Beans. 
 
 Sliced Tomatoes. 
 Steamed Berry Pudding. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Cold Tongue. 
 
 Butter Toast. Sally Lunn. 
 
 Sponge Cake. Apricots. 
 
 Tea or Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Cantaloupe. 
 
 Broiled Halibut. Baked Potatoes, 
 
 White Com Muffins. Toast. 
 
 Wilted Cucumbers. 
 
934 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Curry of Cold Lamb. Boiled Rice. 
 
 Baked Bananas. 
 Soda Crackers. Tea. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Chicken Broth. 
 Baked Fish, with Tomato Sauce, and 
 
 Garnished with Baked Tomatoes. 
 Mashed Potatoes. String Beans. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Peaches and Cream. Delicate Cake. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Roast dams. 
 
 Buttered Brown Bread. 
 Rolls. Berries. 
 
 Tea Cake. Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 Oatmeal Berries. 
 
 Veal Cutlets. 
 
 French Fried Potatoes. 
 
 Rolls. Toast. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Lamb Chops. 
 
 Thin Fried Potatoes. 
 
 Escaloped Cauliflower. Green Peas. 
 
 Vegetable Salad. 
 Silver-and-Gold Pudding. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Cold Meat. 
 
 Toast. Graham Bread. 
 
 Water Crackers. Cake. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Blackberries. Oatmeal. 
 
 Creamed Eggs. Broiled Tripe. 
 
 Fried Potatoes. 
 Corn Muffins. Toast. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Salt-Fish Nash. Sliced Tomatoef. 
 
 Toasted Brown Bread. 
 
 Swedish Rolls. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Baked Fish, Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Potato Balls. 
 
 Chicken Stew, with Norfolk Dump- 
 lings. Green Peas. 
 Pineapple Pudding. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 French Toast. Potato Salad. 
 
 Rolls. Strawberries. 
 
 Cake. Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Strawberries. 
 Broiled Breast of Lamb. 
 
 Fried Hominy. 
 Corn Bread. Rolls. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Roast Lamb, Mint Sauce. 
 
 Green Peas. Beets. Potatoes. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Lemon Sherbet. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Milk Toast. Rolls. 
 
 Berries. Sponge Cake. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 August. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Blackberries. 
 
 Granulated Wheat Mush. 
 
 Broiled Chicken. Baked Potatoes. 
 
 Rolls Toast 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Cold Calves' Tongues. 
 Vegetables a la Jardiniere. 
 Blueberry Cake. 
 Tea. 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 935 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Boiled Turbot, Shrimp Sauce. 
 Potato Balls, with Parsley Butter. 
 
 Veal Cutlets, Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Peat. Green Corn. Beans 
 
 Cress Salad. 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Waffles. 
 Berries. Cake. 
 
 Toast. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 Lamb's Liver Saute. 
 Baked Potatoes. 
 Corn Bread. Toast. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Potato Soup. 
 
 Stewed Chicken. 
 
 Shelled Beans. Potatoes. 
 
 Green Corn. 
 
 Tomato Salad. 
 
 Berry Pudding, Hard Sauce. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Broiled Salt Fish. 
 
 Creamed Potatoes. 
 Toast. Ground Rice Bread. 
 Berries. Ginger-snaps. Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 White Corn-Meal Mush. 
 Halibut Fish Balls. Soft-boiled Eggs. 
 
 Sliced Tomatoes. 
 Entire- Wheat Muffins. Toast. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Ragout of Lamb. Riced Potatoes. 
 Light Cake. Blackberries. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Tomato Soup. 
 
 Roast Beef, Horseradish Sauce. 
 Succotash. Roasted Potatoes. 
 
 Squash. 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Jellied Peaches. 
 
 SUPPER 
 Cold Tongue. 
 
 Toast. Hot Blueberry Cake. 
 
 Crackers. Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Broiled Bacon. Lyonnaise Potatoes. 
 Johnny-cake. Coffee. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Fried Fish. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Green Corn. Sliced Tomatoes. 
 
 Dressed Cucumbers. 
 Baked Blueberry Pudding, Golden 
 Sauce. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Frizzled Beef. Milk Toast. 
 
 Cold Bread. Gingerbi'ead. 
 
 Cocoa. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Grapes. 
 
 Broiled Chicken. 
 
 French Fried Potatoes. Roils. 
 
 Rice Griddle-cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 Savory Beef Collops. 
 
 Mashed Turnips. 
 Potato Salad. 
 Soft Molasses Gingerbi'ead. Tea. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Baked Fish, Dutch Sauce. 
 
 Potato Puffs. 
 
 Breaded Veal Cutlets, Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Cauliflower au Gratin. 
 
 Stewed Carrots. 
 
 Crackers and Cheese. 
 
 Frozen Rice Pudding. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Toast. Woffles. Cold Brenrt, 
 
 Peaches and Cream. Cake. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
936 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 
 Ham Cakes. Plain Omelet, 
 liaised Wheat Muffins. Toast. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Braised Beef'. 
 
 Shelled Beans. Potatoes, 
 
 Baked Tomatoes. 
 Grapes and Apples. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Potato Omelet. 
 
 Cold Graham Bread. Toast. 
 Baked Pears. Lemon Jelly Cake. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Cantaloupe. 
 
 Calf's Liver, with Cream Sauce. 
 Hashed Potatoes. Rolls. 
 
 Tomato Omelet. 
 Green Corn Griddle-cakes. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Ma at i -oni- a nd- Tomato Soup . 
 
 Loin of Veal, a la Jardiniere. 
 
 Rice Croquettes. 
 
 Water-cress Salad. 
 
 Peach Mousse. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Anchocy Toast. Tea Biscuit. 
 Cake. Blackberries. Chocolate 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Wheat Germ Miish. 
 Salt Fish in Egg Sauce. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. 
 Graham Rolls. Dry Toast. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Roast Lamb. 
 
 Potatoes. Mashed Turnips. 
 
 Green Corn in Cream Sauce. 
 
 Tomato Salad. 
 Cold Custard Pudding. 
 
 LUNCHEON. SUPPER. 
 
 Fried Clams. Cold Meat. Scrambled Eggs. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. Cream-of-Tartar Biscuit. 
 
 Pears. Grapes. Soda Crackers, i Cold Graham Bread. 
 
 Tea. \ Sliced Peaches. Sponge Cake. 
 
 September. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Hominy Snowjlakes. 
 Lamb Chops. Baked Potatoes. 
 
 Boiled Eggs. 
 Entire- Wheat Rolls. Toast. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 Broiled Fish. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes. Sliced Tomatoes. 
 Pears and Grapes. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Tomato Soup. 
 
 Roast Chicken. 
 
 Green Corn. Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Stuffed Cucumbers. 
 Cauliflower Salad. Frozen Peaches. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Cold Tongue. Potato Salad. 
 
 Rolls. English Brown Bread. 
 
 Coddled Apples. Ginger-snaps. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 Cracked Wheat. 
 
 Coi'ned-Beef Hash . Boiled Eggs. 
 Corn Cake. 
 
 Toast. 
 
 DINNER. 
 Stuffed and Rolled Shoulder of 
 
 Mutton. 
 Mashed Turnips. Mashed Potatoes 
 
 Escaloped Tomatoes. 
 Apple-Tapioca Pudding. 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 937 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Cracker-and-Milk Toast. 
 Entire- Wheat Bread. 
 
 Baked Apples. 
 Gingerbread. Cocoa. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Grapes. Oatmeal. 
 
 Broiled Chicken. 
 
 Potatoes Broicned in Cream Sauce. 
 Graham Muffins. Toast. 
 Qreen Corn Griddle-cakes. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Grapes. 
 
 Wheat Germ Mush. 
 
 Escaloped Mutton. Poached Egys 
 
 Corn Bread. Toast. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 BeefPastie. 
 
 Sliced Tomatoes. Graham Bread. 
 
 Cream Cookies. Sliced Peaches. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 Cold Lamb. 
 
 Breaded and Fried Tomatoes. 
 
 Toasted Rolls. Tea. 
 
 Grapes and Pears. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Onion Soup. 
 
 Broiled White or Blue Fish. 
 Potato Balls, with Parsley Sauce. 
 Breaded Mutton Cutlets, Tomato 
 
 Sauce. 
 
 Boiled Salsify. Lima Beans. 
 
 Peaches and Cream. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Egg Salad. 
 
 Toast. Rice Muffins. 
 
 Scotch Cake. Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 
 H*h Balls. Plain Omelet. 
 
 Graham Rolls. Toast. 
 
 Fried Indian Mush. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce. 
 Turnips. Carrots. Potatoes. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Baked Apple Pud din y. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Welsh Rare-bit. 
 
 Cream-of- Tartar Biscuit. 
 
 Sponge Cake. Sliced Peaches. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 DINNER. 
 Okra-and-Rice Soup. 
 
 Walled Chicken. 
 
 Cauliflower. Corn. Pickled Beet*. 
 Shrimp Salad. 
 Coffee Ice-cream. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Fricassee of Lobster. 
 
 Washington Rolls. Cold Bread. 
 
 Cake. Preserves. Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Indian Meal Mush 
 
 Fried Liver and Bacon. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. Rolls. 
 
 Bread Griddle-calces. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Roast Beef. 
 
 Creamed Onions. Squash. 
 
 M nshed Potatoes. Beet Salad. 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Cold Sliced Beef. 
 
 Lyonnaise Potatoes. 
 
 Grali rim Muffins. Toatt 
 
 Cake. Cocoa. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Cantaloupe. 
 Broiled Bluefish. 
 Hashed Brown Potatoes. 
 
 Sliced Cucumbers. 
 Toast. Graham Rolls. 
 
938 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Lobster Newburg. 
 Chopped-Paste Cakes. 
 
 Dinner Rolls. 
 
 Peaches. Grapes. 
 
 Cofee. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Green Pea Soup. 
 
 Fried Chicken, with Caulijlower. 
 
 Green Corn. Lima Beans. 
 
 Tomato Salad. 
 
 Fresh Fruit. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Savory Omelet. 
 
 Rolls. Toast. 
 
 Berries. Soft Gingerbread. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 Berries. Graham Mush. 
 
 Baked Croquettes. 
 
 Lyonnaise Potatoes. Sliced Tomatoes. 
 Dropped Biscuit. Toast. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Chicken Soup. 
 Boiled Fish, Bechamel fellow Sauce. 
 
 Sliced Cucumbers. Potatoes. 
 Green Corn. Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Peach Short-cake, with Whipped 
 Cream. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Cold Meat. 
 
 Rolls. Toast. 
 
 Blackberries. 
 
 Soft Molasses Gingerbread 
 Tea. 
 
 October. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Hominy and Cream. 
 
 Fish Balls. Omelet. 
 
 Brown Bread. Rolls. 
 
 Wheat Griddle-cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Fried Oysters. Celery Salad. 
 
 Federal Loaf. Cold Brown Bread. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Oyster Soup. 
 
 Roast Partridge, Bread Sauce. 
 
 Stuffed Tomatoes. Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Cauliflower in Cream Sauce. 
 
 Celery Salad. 
 Pears and Grapes. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Cream Toast. 
 White Bread. 
 
 English Brown Bread. 
 Cake. Preserves. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Cantaloupe. 
 Cracked Wheat. 
 
 Ham and Eggs. Baked Hominy, 
 Corn Muffins. Toast. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Roast Leg of Mutton, Currant Jelly. 
 
 Squash. Mashed Turnips. 
 
 Potatoes. Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Brown Betty Pudding. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Lyonnaise Potatoes. Broiled Bacon. 
 
 Cream-of-Tartar Biscuit. 
 Apple Sauce. Cookies. Cocoa. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Grapes. 
 
 Fried Perch. Stewed Potatoes. 
 
 Toast. Raised Muffins. 
 
 Rice Griddle-cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Brunswick Stew. Spider Corn Cake. 
 Toast. Tea. Fruit. 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 939 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Tomato Soup. 
 
 Broiled Chicken, Tartar Sauce. 
 Cauliflower. 
 
 Fried Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 White Potatoes. 
 Escarole Salad. 
 Ice-cream. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Cold Tongue. Escaloped Potatoes. 
 Toast. Cream Waffles. 
 
 Cake. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Hominy and Milk. 
 
 Omelet. Creamed Potatoes. 
 
 Rolls. Toast. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Pot Roast. 
 
 Turnips. Squash. 
 
 Sliced Tomatoes. Potatoes. 
 
 Canadian Apple Pudding, Nutmeg 
 Sauce. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Cold Beef . Graham Toast. 
 
 Bread Griddle-cakes. 
 Baked Apples. Cup Cake. Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Cracked Wheat. 
 Broiled Salt Ftsh. 
 
 Baked Eggs. Baked Potatoes. 
 
 Baltimore Corn Bread. Toast. 
 
 Graham Griddle-cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Deviled Scallops. Boiled Rice. 
 
 Squash Pie. Toast. 
 
 Tec,. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Scotch Broth. 
 
 Fillets of Halibut, a la Poulette. 
 Potato Balls, Parsley Butter. 
 
 Stuffed Tomatoes. 
 
 French Vegetable Salad. 
 
 Baked Quinces, with Cream. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Cream-of- Tartar Biscuit. 
 
 Broiled Smoked Salmon. 
 Coddled Apples. Sponge Cake. 
 Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST, 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 
 Fish Hash. Sliced Tomatoes. 
 
 Toasted Brown Bread. Rolh. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Boiled Corned Beef. 
 Cabbage. Turnips. 
 
 Beets. Potatoes. 
 
 Rolled Apple Pudding, Lemon Sauce. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Fried Bacon. Boiled Hominy. 
 
 Cold Graham Bread. 
 
 Toast. Cake. 
 
 Cocoa. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Fruit. 
 Broiled Breast of Lamb. 
 
 Baked Potatoet. 
 Rolls. Toast. 
 
 Fried Mush. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Jugged Rabbit. Boiled Rice. 
 
 Baked Apples. Sponge Cake. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Cream-of-Cauliflower Soup. 
 Fillet of Bass, Tartar Sauce. 
 
 Mushed Potatoes. 
 Boiled Fowl, Poulette Sauce. 
 Boiled Salsify. Celery. 
 
 Macaroni in Cream Sauce. 
 Strawberry Meringue. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Cream Toast. 
 
 Rolls. Soda Crackers. 
 
 Baked Pears. Cup Cake. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
940 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Wheat Germ Mush. 
 
 Pork Chops. Hominy. 
 
 Graham Muffins. Toast. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Fish Chowder. Crackers. 
 Cold Corned Beef. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
 Cottage Pudding, Lemon Sauce. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Corned-Beef Hash. 
 
 Cream-of- Tartar Biscuit. 
 Spice Cake. Apple Sauce. 
 Tea. 
 
 November. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Grapes. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 
 Mutton Chops. 
 
 Egg Nests on Toast. 
 
 Potatoes au Gratin. 
 Granulated Wheat Muffins. Toast. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 Cold Meat. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. Tomato Fritters. 
 Swedish Rolls. Pears. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Cream-of -Celery Soup. 
 Roast Grouse, Bread Sauce. 
 Potato Croquettes. 
 
 Cauliflower in Cream Sauce. 
 Oyster Salad. 
 Orange Custard. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Cold Meat. Potato Omelet. 
 
 Rolls. Toast. Cake. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Hominy and Milk. 
 
 Baked Sausages. Baked Potatoes. 
 
 Spider Corn Cake. Toast. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Fish Hash. Rye Muffins. 
 
 Cold Bread. Apple Sauce. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 Hominy and Milk. 
 Pork Tenderloins. 
 
 Savory Omelet. Baked Potatoes. 
 
 Rolls. Toast. 
 
 Griddle-cakes. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Roast Beef. 
 Stewed Cabbage. Indian Dumplings. 
 
 Potatoes. 
 Baked Rice Pudding. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Scotch Broth. Rolls. 
 
 Crackers and Cheese. Rice Pudding. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Baked Fish, Hollandaise Sauce. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 Cuyry of Chicken. 
 
 Soiled Rice. Stewed Tomatoes. 
 
 Apple Dumplings, Lemon Cream 
 Sauce. 
 
 Grapes. Pears. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Cold Meat. Lyonnaise Potatoes. 
 
 Cream-of- Tartar Biscuit . 
 
 Toast. Cnke. Coddled Apples. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Meat-and-Rice Croquettes. 
 
 Soft-boiled -Eggs- 
 Raised Graham Rolls. 
 Buckivheat Cakes 
 
BILLS OF FAKE. 
 
 941 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Baked Fish, Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 Cold Meat. 
 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
 Escaloped Cauliflower. 
 Steamed Graham Pudding, 
 
 Golden Sauce. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Oyster Stew. Toasted Crackers. 
 
 Graham Bread. Baked Apples. 
 
 Gingerbread. Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Fruit. 
 Broiled Mutton Chops. 
 
 Saratoga Potatoes. 
 Fried Graham Muffins. Toast. 
 Rice Griddle-calces. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Tomato Omelet. Hot Biscuit. 
 
 Toast. , Chocolate. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Fried Flounder, Tartar Sauce. 
 
 Potato Croquettes. 
 Venison Cutlets. 
 Fried Sweet Potatoes. Cauliflower. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Peach Ice-cream. Cake. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Chicken Omelet. 
 
 Cracker Toast. Graham Bread. 
 
 Steamed Custards. Cake. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 Escaloped Mutton. 
 
 Lyonnaise Potatoes. 
 Waffles. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Mutton Cutlets, Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Potatoes. Stewed Carrots. 
 
 Macaroni, with Cheese. 
 
 Oyster Salad. 
 Neapolitan Mousse. Cake. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Golden Buck. 
 
 Parker House Rolls. Toast. 
 Hard Gingerbread. 
 
 Orange Marmalade. 
 Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Yellow Corn-Meal Mush. 
 
 Hashed Turkey. Fried Hominy. 
 
 Toast. Graham Rolls. 
 
 Wheat Griddle-cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Escaloped Oysters. 
 
 Parker Home Rolls. 
 Baked Apples. Sugar Gingerbread. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Ox-Tail Soup. 
 
 Baked Red Snapper, Dutch Sauce. 
 Potato Puffs. 
 
 Roast Ham, Madeira Sauce. 
 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Stewed Celery. 
 
 Escarole Salad. 
 
 Orange Snow Pudding, 
 
 Fruit. Coffee. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 -Baked Apples. 
 
 Fried Liver. Baked Potatoes. 
 
 Corn Bread. Toast. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Roast Pork. Apple Sauce. 
 
 Squash. Turnip. 
 
 Steamed Indian Bread. 
 
 Crackers and Cheese. 
 
 Cream Pudding. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Fish Omelet. 
 
 Rolls. Toasted Indian Bread. 
 
 Stewed Prunes. Cake. 
 
 Cocoa. 
 
942 
 
 MISS PARLOA'S KITCHEN COMPANION. 
 
 December. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Crushed Wheat. 
 Venison Steak. 
 
 Duchess Potatoes. Boiled Eggs. 
 
 Rye Muffins. Toast. 
 
 Rice Griddle-cakes. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 Shepherd's Pie. 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
 Dinner Apple Sauce. 
 
 Luncheon Rolls. 
 Chocolate. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Oyster Bisque. 
 
 Roast Turkey, Cranberry Sauce. 
 Cauliflower. Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Squash. 
 Celery Salad. 
 
 Imperial Pudding, Strawberry 
 Sauce. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Cold Tongue. 
 
 Hashed and Browned Potatoes. 
 
 Bread. Toast. Cake. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Hominy and Milk. 
 
 Baked Sausages. Stewed Potatoes. 
 
 Com Bread. Toast. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Tomato Soup. 
 
 Baked Beans. Brown Bread. 
 
 Pickles. Baked Potatoes. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Flummery, with Custard Sauce. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Quaker Omelet. Fried Hominy. 
 
 Rottg. 
 
 Molasses Gingerbread. 
 Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Rye-Meal Mush . 
 Mutton Chops. Savory Omelet. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. 
 Graham Muffins. Toast. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Escaloped Fish. Creamed Potatoes. 
 
 Toast. Chocolate. 
 
 Crystallized Apples. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Oyster Soup. 
 Calf's Head, Terrapin Style, wit) 
 
 Brain Force-meat Balls. 
 Parsnips. Spinach. Potatoes. 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Lemon Jelly. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Broiled Bacon. 
 
 Pop-Overs. Toast. 
 
 Fig Cake. Canned Raspberries 
 
 Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 Breaded Veal Cutlets. 
 
 French Fried Potatoes. 
 Graham Muffins. Corn Bread. 
 Hominy Griddle-cakes. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Boiled Turkey, White Sauce. 
 
 Potato Puffs. Mashed Turnips. 
 
 Macaroni in Cream Sauce. 
 
 Oyster Salad. 
 
 Stewed Apples, with Cream. 
 Sponge Cake. Coffee. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Meat-and-Hominy Croquettes. 
 
 Brown-Bread Toast. Cold Bread. 
 
 Baked Sweet Apples and Cream. 
 
 Cake. Tea. 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 943 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Cold Meat. 
 
 Macedoine of Vegetables. 
 
 Toast. Chocolate. 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Boiled Bass, Egg Sauce. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Beefsteak, Maitre # 'Hotel Butter. 
 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Mashed Turnips. 
 Prune Pudding, Custard Sauce. 
 
 SUPPEK. 
 
 Fried Oysters. 
 
 Brown-Bread Toast. 
 
 Parker House Rolls. 
 
 Cake. Tea. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Yellow Corn-Meal Mush. 
 
 Broiled Tripe. Lyonnaise Potatoes. 
 
 Rolls. Toast. 
 
 Buckwheat Cakes. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Potato Soup. 
 
 Roast Ham, Cider Sauce. 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
 Creamed Onions. 
 
 Corn-starch Pudding, Strawberry 
 Sauce. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Cold Ham. 
 
 Potato Salad, Graham Rolls. 
 
 Baked Apples. Sugar Gingerbread. 
 
 Cocoa. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oranges. 
 Whitt Fricauee of Chicken. 
 
 Potatoes au Gratin. 
 
 Graham Muffins 
 Waffles. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Fried Oysters, on Fried Brown 
 Bread. 
 
 Cabbage Salad. 
 Toast. Baked Apples. Tea. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Ox-Tail Soup. 
 Escaloped Fish. 9 
 Roast Duck, Orange Sauce. 
 Hominy Croquettes. 
 
 Fried Sweet Potatoes. 
 Celery. 
 Coffee Jelly, with Whipped Cream. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Curried Oysters. 
 
 Toast. Pop-Over^ 
 
 Apple Sauce. Cup Cake. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 
 Baked Hash. Soft-boiled Eggs, 
 
 Graham Rolls. Toast. 
 
 Buckwheat Cakes. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 Celery Soup. 
 Roast Ribs of Pork. 
 Apple Sauce. 
 
 Steamed Indian Bread. 
 Potatoes. Squash. Turnips. 
 
 Chicory Salad. 
 Oranges. Grapes. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 Cold Meat. 
 
 Rollt. Graham Toast. 
 
 Cake. Stewed Prune. Tea, 
 

INDEX. 
 
 AN IDEAL KITCHEN. 
 
 Page 
 
 CHINA-CLOSET 25 
 
 Diagram 26 
 
 KITCHEN, AN IDEAL ... 9 
 
 Diagrams 10, 13 
 
 Dresser 14 
 
 Floor 11 
 
 Range 16 
 
 Sink. . . 12 
 
 Size of room 10 
 
 Page 
 
 Tables 14 
 
 Ventilation 11 
 
 Views of kitchen ... 15, 16 
 
 PANTRY 17 
 
 Diagram 18 
 
 STOREROOM 19 
 
 Cold storeroom 23 
 
 Supplies, list of 22 
 
 KITCHEN FURNISHING. 
 
 INTRODUCTION 29 
 
 Articles, list of necessary . . 29 
 
 Ash-barrel ....*... 57 
 
 Baking-dishes, silver .... 51 
 
 Baking-pans 44 
 
 Border-mould 44 
 
 Braising-pan 52 
 
 Brush-rack 56 
 
 Cake-boxes 55 
 
 Cake-pans, fancy 43 
 
 Cake-turner 42 
 
 Can-openers 43 
 
 Chafing-dish 54 
 
 Charlotte-russe pan .... 49 
 
 Chocolate-pot 40 
 
 Chopping-knife 37 
 
 Chopping-tray 36 
 
 Cleaver 52 
 
 Clock 57 
 
 Coal-hod . . 56 
 
 Coffee-mill, French .... 38 
 
 Cups, measuring 53 
 
 Cutters, vegetable, pattie, vol- 
 
 au-vent, biscuit, doughnut . .50 
 
 Dariole-moulds 
 
 Dredgers, salt, pepper, flour, 
 
 and sugar 
 
 Egg-coddler 39 
 
 Egg-poacher 39 
 
 Filter, flannel 55 
 
 Fish-kettle 
 
 34 
 
 Frying-pan 35 
 
 Frying-pan, granite .... 36 
 
 Garbage-barrel 57 
 
 Gem-pans 35 
 
 Glass jars 
 Granite-ware 
 
 Gratin-dishes 51 
 
 Griddle . 
 Ham-boiler 
 
 Iron utensils . 
 
 Knife-board 56 
 
 Lemon-squeezer 
 Measuring-cups . 
 Meat-chopper 
 Meat-pan grates 
 Meat-press . . 
 Meat-safe . . 
 
 52 
 53 
 
 38 
 38 
 :38 
 54 
 
 Mixing-bowls 54 
 
 Mortar and pestle 38 
 
 Moulds, dariole, jelly, ice- 
 cream, pudding, cro'quette, 
 
 cutlet 45 
 
 45 j Muffin-cup, English .... 44 
 
 , Omelet-pan 36 
 
 40 Palette knife 52 
 
 Poker 
 
 56 
 
 Potato-masher 42 
 
 Puree sieve, coarse 
 
 46 
 
946 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 KITCHEN FURNISHING. Continued. 
 
 Page 
 
 Roll-pans 35 
 
 Salamander 51 
 
 Sardine-shears 43 
 
 Scales 37 
 
 Scoop 41 
 
 Sieves 46 
 
 Sink-brush 57 
 
 Sink-cleaner . . .... 56 
 
 Sink-rack 56 
 
 Sink -shovel 56 
 
 Skewers . . . 
 Skimmer . . 
 
 Soap-shaker 57 
 
 Soup-digester 33 
 
 Spice-box 41 
 
 Spoons, wooden 53 
 
 Page 
 
 Strainer 45 
 
 Strainer, flannel 55 
 
 Strainer, handled 45 
 
 Strainer, tapering 41 
 
 Strainer, teapot 46 
 
 Timbale-irons. Swedish ... 50 
 
 Tin utensils 32 
 
 Towel-rack 56 
 
 Tunnels 41 
 
 Vegetable-cutters 49 
 
 Waffle-iron 34 
 
 Whisk, wire 53 
 
 Wire dish-covers .... 54 
 
 Wood-pulp ware 36 
 
 Wooden hands (for shaping but- 
 ter) 63 
 
 CARE OF UTENSILS AND KITCHEN 
 FURNITURE. 
 
 INTRODUCTION 58 
 
 Forks, steel 61 
 
 Garbage-barrel 61 
 
 Knives, steel 61 
 
 Odors, to remove, from utensils 60 
 
 Range 62 
 
 Range, coal, amount of ... 64 
 
 Range, dampers 63 
 
 Refrigerator 61 
 
 Sand, us-e of ... 
 Sapolio .... 
 Scour dishes, how to 
 Soft soap .... 
 
 Stove 
 
 Towels 
 
 Wash dishes, how to 
 Washing-soda . . 
 Wooden-ware . . 
 
 58 
 50 
 56 
 U 
 
 02 
 58 
 59 
 0C 
 
 BO 
 
 ABOUT FOOD. 
 
 INTRODUCTION 
 
 Arrowroot 
 
 CANNED GOODS 
 
 Anchovies 
 
 Anchovy essence .... 
 
 Anchovy paste 
 
 Canned goods a blessing . . 
 
 Caviare, Russian .... 
 
 Cepes 
 
 Danger, sources of .... 
 
 Foie gras 
 
 Mushrooms 
 
 Peas, French 
 
 Suggestions to housekeepers . 
 
 Tests of wholesomeness . . 
 
 Truffles 
 
 Cassia 
 
 CEREALS 
 
 Corn meal 
 
 Flour 
 
 66 
 97 
 
 Graham 
 
 Grits . . . 
 
 93 
 96 
 
 8-1 
 
 Hominy . . 
 
 95 
 
 88 
 
 88 
 
 Rye flour 
 Rye meal 
 
 93 
 93 
 
 88 
 87 
 88 
 
 Wheat germ meal . . . 
 Cinnamon 
 Condiments 
 
 95 
 100 
 98 
 
 89 
 86 
 
 Curry-powder .... 
 
 99 
 99 
 
 89 
 89 
 
 Pepper 
 Fillets 
 
 99 
 81 
 
 86 
 
 FISH 
 
 80 
 
 90 
 
 Crawfish 
 
 81 
 
 85 
 89 
 
 Lobsters 
 Prawns 
 
 80 
 81 
 
 100 
 
 Shrimp 
 
 80 
 
 qo 
 
 FLAVORS 
 
 91 
 
 94 
 92 
 
 Cordials 
 Curacoa 
 
 91 
 91 
 
INDEX. 
 
 947 
 
 ABOUT FOOD. Continued. 
 
 Page 
 91 
 91 
 91 
 92 
 84 
 
 Eau de vie de Dantzic . . 
 
 Maraschino 
 
 Noyau 
 
 Rum 
 
 Food, frozen 
 
 Fruits 71 
 
 .Game 78 
 
 Gelatine 98 
 
 Macaroni 97 
 
 Italian paste 97 
 
 Spaghetti 97 
 
 MEAT AND FISH 82 
 
 Fish 82 
 
 Meats 83 
 
 Poultry 83 
 
 When "they are good ... 82 
 
 MEATS 72 
 
 Chops, porterhouse .... 76 
 
 Fillet 74 
 
 Fillet, short 72 
 
 Mutton 77 
 
 Sirloin roast 73 
 
 Steak, entrecote 74 
 
 Steaks, chuck 75 
 
 Steaks, short 74 
 
 Tongues 78 
 
 Sweetbreads 78 
 
 Veal cutlets 76 
 
 Veal, fillet of 75 
 
 Veal, fricandeau of .... 75 
 
 Molasses 96 
 
 Olive oil 96 
 
 Relishes 90 
 
 Chutney, India 
 
 Olives 
 
 Soy 
 
 Summer salads and sweet herbs 
 
 How to get them from one's 
 own garden 
 
 Plant, time to 
 
 Tapioca 
 
 VEGETABLES 
 
 Asparagus 
 
 Barbe de Capucin .... 
 
 Borage 
 
 Broccoli 
 
 Brussels sprouts 
 
 Cauliflower 
 
 Celeriac 
 
 Chervil 
 
 Cress 
 
 Egg-plant 
 
 Escarole 
 
 Fetticus 
 
 Garlic '. 
 
 Kohl-rabi 
 
 Lettuce, lamb's 
 
 Monk's beard 
 
 Okra 
 
 Onions, Spanish 
 
 Peppers, sweet Spanish . . 
 
 Rocambole 
 
 Salsify 
 
 Shallot 
 
 Sorrel 
 
 Tarragon 
 
 Page 
 
 90 
 
 91 
 
 91 
 
 100 
 
 100 
 101 
 97 
 66 
 67 
 70 
 71 
 68 
 67 
 
 71 
 70 
 68 
 70 
 71 
 69 
 68 
 71 
 70 
 
 69- 
 
 70 
 71 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 Artichoke, cream of .... 152 
 
 Asparagus 135 
 
 Barley 125 
 
 Barley and milk 150 
 
 Barley, cream of 149 
 
 Bean" 132 
 
 Beef, bisque of 146 
 
 Beef for stock 109 
 
 Beef, shin of 126 
 
 Beef, with barley 125 
 
 Bisque, crab .' 165 
 
 Bisque, crab and tomato . . . 164 
 
 Bisque, lobster 166 
 
 Bisque of beef 146 
 
 Bisque of clams 164 
 
 Bisque of mutton 
 Bisque of oysters 
 Bouillon . . . 
 Bread, cream of . 
 Brown . . 
 
 145 
 167 
 114 
 149 
 124 
 
 Carrot 139 
 
 Carrots, pure*e of 140 
 
 Cauliflower, cream of ... 147 
 
 Cauliflower, pure*e of .... 144 
 
 Chestnut 158 
 
 Chicken .129 
 
 Chicken gombo 130 
 
 Clam . . 162 
 
 Clam chowder 160 
 
 Clam chowder, Danbury . . . 161 
 
 Clam, Wadsworth 163 
 
 Clams, bisque of 164 
 
 Clams, cream of 163 
 
 Clear soups 105 
 
 Cleared, how soups are ... 106 
 
 Consomme* 116 
 
 Consomme* a la royale. (See 
 
 ." Royal custard " in chapter 
 
 on " Garnishes.") 
 
 Consomme, chicken .... 118 
 
948 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 SOUPS. Continued. 
 
 Pa^e 
 
 Consomme, simple 117 
 
 Consomme" with asparagus tops 120 
 
 Consomme" with barley . . . 119 
 
 Consomme with force-meat balls 119 
 
 * Consomme" with green peas . . 120 
 
 Consomme with macaroni . 119 
 
 Consomme" with poached eggs 120 
 
 Consomme" with protiteroles . 119 
 
 Consomme with quenelles . 120 
 
 Consomme with rice . . . 118 
 
 Corn 157 
 
 Crab and tomato bisque . . 164 
 
 Crab bisque 165 
 
 Cream of artichoke . . . 152 
 
 Cream of barley .... 149 
 
 Cream of bread 149 
 
 Cream of cauliflower . . . 147 
 
 Cream of clams 163 
 
 Cream of macaroni .... 147 
 
 Cream of rice 148 
 
 Cream of sago 149 
 
 Cream of tapioca 149 
 
 Fish chowder 159 
 
 Garbure a la printaniere . . . 137 
 
 Green corn and tomato . . . 141 
 
 Grouse, puree of 156 
 
 Imperial 153 
 
 Julienne 121 
 
 Lobster bisque 166 
 
 Macaroni and tomato .... 142 
 
 Macaroni, Cream of . . . . 147 
 
 Mock turtle 127 
 
 Mutton, bisque of . . . . 145 
 
 Noodle 151 
 
 Normandy 137 
 
 Notes, miscellaneous .... 113 
 
 Okra 132 
 
 Okra and rice 132 
 
 Oyster .168 
 
 Oyster gombo ....... 131 
 
 Oysters, bisque of 167 
 
 Page 
 
 Palestine 153 
 
 Pea 134 
 
 Pea, green 135 
 
 Potato 157 
 
 Poulette 150 
 
 Poultry for stock 110 
 
 Puree of carrots 140 
 
 Pure"e of cauliflower .... 144 
 
 Pure"e of grouse 156 
 
 Pure"e of spinach 144 
 
 Pure"e of tomatoes 143 
 
 Puree, Scotch 133 
 
 Remnants of meat, value of . . 107 
 
 Rice and milk 150 
 
 Rice and tomato 142 
 
 Rice, cream of 148 
 
 Sago 126 
 
 Sago and milk 150 
 
 Sago, cream of 149 
 
 Scotch broth 146 
 
 Scotch puree 133 
 
 Sorrel 136 
 
 Spaghetti 129 
 
 Spinach, puree of 144 
 
 Spring 139 
 
 St. Germain 134 
 
 Stock 108 
 
 Stock, beef for 109 
 
 Stock made with shin of beef . 113 
 
 Stock, materials for .... 105 
 
 Stock, meats for Ill 
 
 Stock, poultry for 110 
 
 Stock, simplest way of making 104 
 
 Tapioca and milk 150 
 
 Tapioca, cream of 149 
 
 Thickening for soups .... Ill 
 
 Tomato 141 
 
 Tomatoes, puree of .... 143 
 
 Turkey 129 
 
 Velvet 155 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Bass 
 
 Bass, fillet of, breaded . 
 Bass, striped, boiled . . 
 Black bass, boiled . . . , 
 Black fish, fillet of, breaded 
 
 Bluefish 
 
 Cakes, fish 
 
 Clams, roast 
 
 Clams, stewed .... 
 Codfish cutlets .... 
 Crabs, baked . . . .. , , 
 
 180 
 191 
 191 
 191 
 191 
 180 
 202 
 219 
 220 
 195 
 
 Crabs baked in bell peppers . 
 Crabs, broiled sfg$hell 
 Crabs, deviled '/ if. . . . 
 Crabs, fried soft-shell . 
 Crabs, soft-shell . . . . 
 
 Croquettes, fish 
 
 Escaloped fish 
 
 FISH 
 
 Boiling 
 
 227 
 223 
 223 
 222 
 222 
 203 
 196 
 170 
 170 
 
 Flavor, strong, how to renuwe 170 
 Fillet, how to 172 
 
INDEX. 
 
 949 
 
 FISH. Continued. 
 
 188 
 203 
 180 
 195 
 183 
 187 
 186 
 181 
 181 
 18-3 
 184 
 182 
 185 
 
 184 
 191 
 202 
 202 
 191 
 224 
 226 
 224 
 224 
 
 Page 
 
 Rechauffe. 197 
 
 Serve, how to ...... 172 
 
 Flounder, fillets of, au gratin . 189 
 
 Flounder, fillets of, baked in 
 wine 189 
 
 Flounder, fillets of, breaded . 191 
 
 Flounder, fried 190 
 
 Flounder, turbans of, breaded . 187 
 
 Flounder, turbans of, with 
 anchovies 
 
 Frogs' legs, fried . . . 
 
 Haddock ...... 
 
 Haddock a la creme 
 
 Halibut a la Creole . . 
 
 Halibut a la maitre d'hotel 
 
 Halibut au gratin . . . 
 
 Halibut, baked ..... 
 
 Halibut, boiled 
 
 Halibut, broiled 
 
 Halibut, carbonade .... 
 
 Halibut, chicken, baked . . . 
 
 Halibut, fillets of, a la poulette 
 
 Halibut, fillets of, baked, with 
 cream sauce 
 
 Halibut, fillets of, breaded . . 
 
 Halibut fish balls 
 
 Herring, smoked 
 
 Lake trout, boiled 
 
 Lobster, curry of 
 
 Lobster cutlets 
 
 Lobster, deviled 
 
 Lobster, fricassee of .... 
 
 Lobster Newburg 
 
 Mackerel, baked salt, cream 
 sauce 
 
 Mullet, baked 
 
 Mullet, broiled 179 
 
 OYSTERS 205 
 
 Ovsters a la Duxelles . ... 216 
 
 Oysters a la poulette . . . '. 209 
 
 Oysters a la villeroi .... 217 
 
 < )vsters au gratin 211 
 
 ( )Vsters, baked, a la Duxelles . 216 
 
 < >ysters, broiled 213 
 
 ( fysters cooked in chafing-dish 219 
 
 ( >ysters, curried 208 
 
 Oyster cutlets 210 
 
 Oysters, escaloped . . . . . 212 
 
 Oysters, fried 208 
 
 Oysters, griddled . . . / . 214 
 
 Oyster kabobs 218 
 
 Oysters on toast 214 I 
 
 Page 
 
 Oysters, raw, how to serve . . 207 
 
 Oysters, saut< ...... 207 
 
 Oysters, spindled ..... 213 
 
 Oysters, stewed ...... 207 
 
 Oysters, stuffed ...... 215 
 
 Prawn, deviled ...... 224 
 
 Red snapper, baked 
 Red snapper, boiled 
 
 178 
 177 
 191 
 201 
 200 
 198 
 201 
 199 
 
 Rock-bass, fillet of, breaded 
 Salmon, smoked, broiled . . 
 
 Salmon, spiced 
 
 Salt fish and eggs in cream . . 
 
 Salt fish, broiled 
 
 Salt fish in cream 
 
 Salt fish in cream, with puree of 
 
 potatoes 198 
 
 Scallops, deviled ..... 220 
 
 Scallops, fried 221 
 
 Scallops fried in batter ... 221 
 
 Shad, baked 179 
 
 Shad, broiled ISC 
 
 Shad roe, baked in tomato sauce 204 
 Shad roe, baked with cream 
 
 sauce , . 204 
 
 Shad roe, fried 204 
 
 Sheep's-head 180 
 
 Sheep's-head, boiled .... 191 
 
 Shrimps baked in bell peppers 226 
 
 Shrimps, deviled 224 
 
 Shrimps, escaloped .... 227 
 
 Smelts, broiled 191 
 
 Smelts, stuffed 192 
 
 225 | Sprats, dried 201 
 
 | Sturgeon 175 
 
 200 | Sturgeon, baked 176 
 
 179 ! Sturgeon, boiled 175 
 
 Sturgeon cutlets 177 
 
 Sturgeon, sauce for .... *176 
 
 Sturgeon steaks 177 
 
 Terrapin 228 
 
 Terrapin au gratin .... 231 
 
 Terrapin brown stew .... 230 
 
 Terrapin white stew .... 229 
 
 Toast, fish 200 
 
 Turbans of fish, with oysters . 188 
 
 Turbot 192 
 
 Turbot au gratin 194 
 
 Turbot, boiled 193 
 
 White-fish 180 
 
 White-fish, boiled 191 
 
 White-fish, fillet of, breaded . 191 
 
950 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 
 
 Page 
 
 INTRODUCTION 232 
 
 Bacon, fried 273 
 
 Bacon, fried, Southern fashion . 273 
 
 Beef collops, savory .... 249 
 
 Beef, corned, hashed .... 278 
 
 Beef, creamed 256 
 
 Beef, curry of 261 
 
 Beef, curry of, simple . . . 254 
 
 Beef, frica'ssee of cold roast . 255 
 
 Beef, frizzled 256 
 
 Beef, frozen, shaved .... 250 
 
 Beef, hashed, on toast ... 256 
 
 Beef pastie 252 
 
 Beef, rolled flank of, cold . . 247 
 
 Beef, rolled flank of, hot . . 248 
 
 Beef sausages 250 
 
 Beef, savory 246 
 
 Beef stew 244 
 
 Beefsteak pie 251 
 
 Boiling 234 
 
 Braising 243 
 
 BROILING 237 
 
 Clear coals needed .... 237 
 
 Time of cooking .... 238 
 
 Brunswick stew 271 
 
 Force-meat cakes 281 
 
 Fricandelles 249 
 
 FRYING 238 
 
 Clarifying, processes of . . 239 
 
 Fat, hot 243 
 
 Fat, how to keep .... 242 
 
 Fat, how to use 240 
 
 Prying-basket 241 
 
 Time of cooking various arti- 
 cles 241 
 
 GAME 294 
 
 Birds, small, in crumbs . . 304 
 
 Ducks, roast 301 
 
 Grouse, broiled 304 
 
 Partridge, broiled .... 304 
 
 Partridge, roast 302 
 
 Ptarmigan, broiled .... 304 
 
 Ptarmigan, roast .... 302 
 
 Prepare, how to 288 
 
 Rabbit, jugged 306 
 
 Snipe, barded and roasted . 305 
 
 Venison cutlets 300 
 
 Venison, fillets of .... 301 
 
 Venison, hashed 299 
 
 Venison, ragout of .... 300 
 
 Venison, roast leg of ... 296 
 Venison, saddle of, larded 
 
 and roasted 297 
 
 Venison steak cooked in the 
 
 chafing-dish 299 
 
 Venison steaks 298 
 
 Woodcock, roast, on toast . 303 
 
 Page 
 
 Ham, broiled 276 
 
 Ham cakes 283 
 
 Ham, deviled 283 
 
 Ham, deviled, boiled ... 284 
 
 Ham, roast 286 
 
 Ham, roast, stuffed . . . 286 
 
 Hash, baked 277 
 
 Hash, corned-beef .... 278 
 
 Hash, meat and potato . . 280 
 
 Hash, tongue 279 
 
 Hash, turkey 279 
 
 Hash, vegetable 280 
 
 Irish stew 270 
 
 Kidneys k la Tartar .... 277 
 
 Kidneys, crumbed .... 276 
 
 Kidneys, saute 277 
 
 Lamb,' broiled breast of ... 265 
 
 Lamb, curr\ of 261 
 
 Lamb, fricassee of, with baked 
 
 dumplings 266 
 
 Lamb, leg of, a la jardiniere . 265 
 
 Lamb, ragout of cold .... 267 
 
 Lamb, stuffed fillet of .... 269 
 
 Lamb warmed in curry sauce 267 
 
 Liver and bacon, fried . . . 273 
 
 Liver, calf's, blanquette of . . 274 
 
 Liver, calf's, in cream sauce . 274 
 
 Liver hash 275 
 
 Liver in cream sauce .... 275 
 
 Liver, lamb's, saute .... 275 
 
 Macaroni-and-meat pie ... 251 
 
 Mount Desert stew .... 283 
 
 Mutton, boiled leg of . . . . 268 
 
 Mutton, broiled breast of . . 270 
 
 Mutton, currv of 261 
 
 Mutton, deviled 272 
 
 Mutton, escaloped 272 ! 
 
 Mutton, fillet of, stuffed ... 269 
 
 Mutton, ragout of 270 
 
 Mutton, stuffed and rolled shoul- 
 der of 268 
 
 Pig, roast 286 
 
 Pigs' feet, broiled 285 
 
 Pigs' feet, fried 285 
 
 Pork chops 285 
 
 Pot roast 245 
 
 POULTRY AND GAME, HOW TO 
 
 PREPARE 288 
 
 Capon a la jardiniere ... 294 
 
 Capon, boiled 293 
 
 Capon, roast 294 
 
 Chickens 294 
 
 Turkey, boiled 289 
 
 Turkey, braised 292 
 
 Turkey, roast 290 
 
 Turkev, roast, with chestnut 
 
 stuffing 291 
 
INDEX. 
 
 951 
 
 VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 
 
 Continued. 
 
 Page 
 
 Turkey, truffled 290 
 
 ROASTING 234 
 
 Rules, genera] 235 
 
 Time of cooking 236 
 
 Sausages, baked 281 
 
 Sausages, baked rice and . . 281 
 
 Shepherd's pie 252 
 
 Steaks, Hamburg 248 
 
 Stew, beef 244 
 
 Stew, Brunswick 271 
 
 Stew, Irish 270 
 
 Stew, Mount Desert .... 283 
 
 Timbale of cold meat .... 253 
 
 Tongue hash 279 
 
 Page 
 
 Tripe, broiled 286 
 
 Turkey hash .279 
 
 Turkish pilaf 282 
 
 ; Veal, blanquette of .... 260 
 
 Veal, braised shoulder of . . 257 
 
 Veal, brown fricassee of ... 259 
 
 Veal, curry of 261 
 
 Veal, fillet of, stuffed .... 269 
 
 Veal, jellied 263 
 
 i Veal loaf 264 
 
 ; Veal, loin of, a la jardiniere . 258 
 
 I Veal, minced, on toast ... 262 
 
 . Veal pillau 260 
 
 j Veal, terrapin 262 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 Anchovy canapes 396 
 
 Anchovy patties 377 
 
 Anchovy toast 398 
 
 Apple fritters 389 
 
 Apricot fritters 390 
 
 Aspic de foie gras 386 
 
 Aspic of chicken 387 
 
 Aspic of lobster 388 
 
 Aspic of shrimp 388 
 
 Aspic of sweetbreads .... 388 
 
 Baked croquettes 384 
 
 Banana fritters 389 
 
 Batter for fruit fritters . . . 388 
 
 Beef, fillet of 307 
 
 Beef, fillet of, a la Bearnaise . 308 
 Beefsteak, with fried Spanish 
 
 onions 312 
 
 Blanquette of chicken and mac- 
 aroni 339 
 
 Breslau of cold meat .... 324 
 
 Calves' brains, breaded . . . 326 
 
 Calves' brains, escaloped . . 327 
 
 Canapes 396 
 
 Canapes, anchovy .... 396 
 
 Canapes, caviare 397 
 
 Canapes, sardine 397 
 
 Canapes, smoked salmon . . 397 
 
 Caviare canapes 397 
 
 Cepes, broiled 395 
 
 Cepes, stewed 395 
 
 Chestnut croquettes .... 382 
 Chicken a la Duxelles ... 341 
 Chicken a la Marengo . . . 343 
 Chicken and mushroom cro- 
 quettes 381 
 
 Chicken-and-rice pie .... 337 
 
 Chicken, aspic of ..... 387 
 
 Chicken cutlets ...... 345 
 
 Chicken fared, supreme of . . 350 
 Chicken, fricassee of, brown . 339 
 Chicken, fricassee of, white . 340 
 Chicken, fried, and cauliflower 330 
 Chicken, jellied ...... 342 
 
 Chicken legs, a la jardiniere 
 Chicken legs, k la Villeroi . 
 Chicken-liver timbale .. 
 Chicken pie 
 
 Chicken pie, to be served cold 
 Chicken rissoles 
 
 Chicken stew, with dumplings 
 Norfolk 
 
 346 
 348 
 358 
 334 
 335 
 376 
 331 
 
 with 
 
 Chicken stew, 
 
 dumplings ....... 333 
 
 Chicken, stewed ..... 332 
 
 Chicken, supreme of, a la Pa- 
 
 risienne ....... 351 
 
 Chicken, terrapin ..... 340 
 
 Chicken timbales ..... 358 
 
 Chicken, walled ..... 337 
 
 Chops, lamb, in paper cases . 322 
 
 Chops, veal ....... 321 
 
 Corn fritters ....... 392 
 
 CROQUETTES ...... 377 
 
 Croquettes, baked ..... 384 
 
 Croquettes, chestnut .... 382 
 
 Croquettes, chicken and mush- 
 
 room ........ 381 
 
 Croquettes, meat-and-hominy . 382 
 
 Croquettes, mutton .... '381 
 
 Croquettes, rice, a la Parmesan 384 
 
 Croquettes, sauce for, brown . 386 
 
952 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 ENTREES. Continued. 
 
 Ptge 
 
 Croquettes, sweetbread . . . 380 
 
 Croquettes, sweet-potato . . . 383 
 
 Custard fritters . 390 
 
 Cutlets, chicken 345 
 
 Cutlets, lamb, crumbed . . . 322 
 
 Cutlets, mutton, a la Maintenon 323 
 
 Cutlets, pigeon 367 
 
 Cutlets, turkey, with chestnut 
 
 puree . .* 346 
 
 Deviled duck, wet 394 
 
 Deviled turkey, dry .... 394 
 
 Devils . . . 393 
 
 Duck, deviled, wet 394 
 
 Duck, salmi of 368 
 
 Fillet of cooked partridges . . 365 
 
 Fillet of grouse 367 
 
 Fillet of partridge 365 
 
 Fillet of partridge a la jardiniere 367 
 
 Fillet poultry and game, how to 348 
 
 Fillet steaks* a la Chateaubriand 309 
 
 Fillet steaks with olives . . . 308 
 
 Fish timbales 359 
 
 Fricandeau of veal .... 318 
 
 Fricassee of chicken, brown . 339 
 
 Fricassee of chicken, white . . 340 
 
 Fritters, apple 389 
 
 Fritters, apricot 390 
 
 Fritters, banana 389 
 
 Fritters, batter for fruit . . . 388 
 
 Fritters, corn 392 
 
 Fritters, custard 390 
 
 Fritters, grape 390 
 
 Fritters, orange 389 
 
 Fritters, peach 390 
 
 Fritters, pear 390 
 
 Fritters, pineapple 390 
 
 Fritters, royal . w .... 391 
 
 Galantine of fowl 363 
 
 Game, fillet of 367 
 
 Game timbales 359 
 
 Grape fritters 390 
 
 Grenadins of fillet of beef . . 309 
 
 Grouse, fillet of 307 
 
 Honeycomb timbale ... . 358 
 
 Imperial vol-au-vent . 373 
 
 Italian vol-au-vent 372 
 
 Jellied chicken 342 
 
 Lamb chops in paper cases . . 322 
 Lamb cutlets, crumbed . . . 322 
 Legs of chicken a la jardiniere . 346 
 Liver force-meat border, gar- 
 nished with poultry scallops . 362 
 Lobster, aspic of . * .... 388 
 
 Macaroni timbales 357 
 
 Macaroni timbale a la Milanaise 361 
 
 Marrow-bones 313 
 
 Meat-and-hontiny croquettes . 382 
 
 Mutton croquettes 
 
 Mutton cutlets a la Maintenon . 
 Norfolk dumplings .... 
 Noukles a la Viennoise . . . 
 Olives stuffed with anchovy 
 Olives stuffed with chicken . . 
 
 Orange fritters 
 
 Ox palates 
 
 Ox palates a la poulette . . . 
 Ox palates, breaded .... 
 Ox palates, broiled .... 
 Ox palates, curry of .... 
 Ox palates, with mushrooms 
 Ox tails, stewed, with turnips . 
 Parisian vol-au-vents .... 
 
 Partridge, fillet of 
 
 Partridge, fillet of, a la jardiniere 
 Partridge, fillet of, cooked . . 
 
 Pattie cases 
 
 Patties, anchovy 
 
 Patties, various' kinds of . . . 
 Paupiettes of fillet of beef, with 
 
 mushrooms 
 
 Paupiettes of fillet of beef, with 
 
 olives 
 
 Peach fritters 
 
 Pear fritters 
 
 Pigeon cutlets . 
 
 Pineapple fritters 
 
 Poultry and game, how to fillet 
 Rice croquettes a la Parmesan . 
 
 Rissoles 
 
 Rissoles, chicken .... 
 
 Royal fritters 
 
 Royal vol-au-vent 
 
 Salmi of duck 
 
 Salmon timbales 
 
 Sardine canapes 
 
 Scotch woodcock 
 
 Shrimp, aspic of 
 
 Smoked salmon canapes . . . 
 
 Spaghetti timbales 
 
 Supreme of chicken a la Parisi- 
 
 enue ........ 
 
 Supreme of chicken farce . . 
 Swedish timbales ..... 
 
 Sweetbread croquettes . . . 
 Sweetbread timbales .... 
 
 Sweetbreads, aspic of .... 
 
 Sweetbreads, braised .... 
 
 Sweetbreads, spindled . . . 
 Sweetbreads with brown sauce 
 Sweet-potato croquettes . . . 
 
 Terrapin chicken 
 
 TIMBALES 
 
 Timbales a la financiere . . . 
 Timbales, chicken 
 
 Page 
 381 
 323 
 334 
 392 
 
 389 
 315 
 317 
 316 
 317 
 317 
 318 
 314 
 371 
 365 
 367 
 365 
 368 
 377 
 371 
 
 312 
 
 311 
 390 
 390 
 367 
 391' 
 348 
 384 
 376 
 376 
 391 
 371 
 368 
 359 
 397 
 398 
 388 
 397 
 357 
 
 351 
 
 350 
 359 
 380 
 355 
 388 
 329 
 329 
 328 
 383 
 340 
 353 
 356 
 3f>3 
 
INDEX. 
 
 953 
 
 ENTREES. Continued. 
 
 Timbales, chicken-liver . . . 
 
 Timbales, lish 
 
 Timbales, game 
 
 Tirnbales, honeycomb . . . 
 
 Timbales , macaroni .... 
 
 Timbales, macaroni, a la Mila- 
 naise 
 
 Timbales, salmon 
 
 Timbales, spaghetti .... 
 
 Timbales, Swedish .... 
 
 Timbales, sweetbread .... 
 
 Tiuabales, veal 
 
 Tongue, braised, a la jardiniere 
 
 Tongues, lambs', braised . . 
 
 Tongues, sheep's, brown fricas- 
 see of . 
 
 Page Page 
 
 358 i Turkey cutlets with chestnut 
 
 359 pure"e 346 
 
 359 Turkey, deviled, drv . . . . 394 
 
 358 ! Turkey, vol-au-vent of ... 372 
 :!57 Veal chops 321 
 
 Veal cutlets a la Francaise . . 320 
 
 361 Veal timbales 358 
 
 359 Vol-au-vent baked in a mould . 370 
 
 357 Vol-au-vent case, large ... 369 
 359 Vol-au-vent, imperial . . . . 373 
 355 j Vol-au-vent, Italian .... 372 
 
 358 Vol-au-vent of turkey . . . 372 
 
 324 Vol-au-vent, Parisian .... 371 
 326 Vol-au-vent, royal 371 
 
 Vol-au-vents, various kinds of . 370 
 
 325 I Woodcock, Scotch 398 
 
 CHEESE DISHES. 
 
 Au gratiu 399 
 
 Cottage cheese 404 
 
 Deviled biscuit 404 
 
 Fingers 405 
 
 Fondue . . 400 
 
 Golden buck 403 
 
 Puffs 402 
 
 Roasted cheese 402 
 
 Souffle's, small 399 
 
 Straws 403 
 
 Swiss ramequin . 400 
 
 Toasted cheese . . ... 40^ 
 
 Yorkshire rare-bit .... 40* 
 
 DISHES OF EGGS. 
 
 INTRODUCTION ...... 4U6 
 
 Au gratin ........ 414 
 
 Baked ....... 407, 411 
 
 Boiled ......... 406 
 
 Cases, in ........ 416 
 
 Cuban 
 
 Curried 
 
 Dropped 
 
 Escaloped 
 
 Farce" 
 
 Force-meat, in 
 
 413 
 
 410 
 408 
 410 
 415 
 413 
 
 Griddled ........ 409 
 
 Lyonnaise ........ 409 
 
 tf ests on toast ...... 415 
 
 OMELETS ........ 417 
 
 Asparagus ....... 422 
 
 Baked .... 42C 
 
 Cheese 424 
 
 Chicken 424 
 
 Fish 422 
 
 Green-pea 421 
 
 Ham .424 
 
 Jelly 425 
 
 Mushroom 423 
 
 Oysters 424 
 
 Plain 420 
 
 Tomato 424 
 
 Poached 407 
 
 Spanish 413 
 
 Swiss 412 
 
 Timbales . 408 
 
 INTRODUCTION . 
 
 Cheese . . . 
 Chicken . . . 
 Dressing, cooked 
 
 SALADS. 
 
 . 426 ; Dressing, cream ..... 428 
 
 . 439 Dressing, Mayonnaise . . . 427 
 
 . 429 I Egg . . . .* ...... 438 
 
 Lobster ........ 430 
 
 428 
 
954 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 SALADS. Continued. 
 
 Marguerite 438 
 
 Orange 438 
 
 Oyster 430 
 
 Shrimp 431 
 
 Sweetbread 429 
 
 VEGETABLE 431 
 
 Aguacate 435 
 
 Beet 438 
 
 Cabbage 437 
 
 Page 
 
 French 432 
 
 Lettuce 434 
 
 Mace'doine 433 
 
 Onion and lettuce .... 435 
 
 Peppers . . 437 
 
 Potato 433 
 
 Salsify 437 
 
 Spinach 436 
 
 GARNISHES. 
 
 Anchovy force-meat .... 454 
 
 Aspic jelly 458 
 
 Bread, Boston brown, fried . . 443 
 
 Bread, crisped 443 
 
 Bread, fried 442 
 
 Bread, toasted 444 
 
 Chicken, essence of .... 460 
 
 Chicken force-meat balls . . 445 
 
 Chicken-liver force-meat . . . 452 
 
 Chicken quenelles 455 
 
 Chicken ragout 457 
 
 Crackers, crisped 443 
 
 Egg balls 444 
 
 Essence of chicken .... 460 
 
 Financiere ragout 456 
 
 Fish, garnishes for .... 440 
 
 Fish force-meat 454 
 
 FORCE-MEAT 450 
 
 Force-meat, anchovy .... 454 
 
 Force-meat, chicken-liver . . 452 
 
 Force-meat, fish 454 
 
 Force-meat, game 454 
 
 Force-meat, oyster 454 
 
 ! Force-meat, veal 453 
 
 | Game force-meat 454 
 
 Game, ragout of 457 
 
 Glaze 459 
 
 Marinade 459 
 
 Marinade, cooked 460 
 
 Marinade, raw ...... 460 
 
 Oyster force-meat 454 
 
 j Potato border 450 
 
 Profiteroles 445 
 
 Pur^e a la Bretonne .... 449 
 
 Pure"e of cauliflower .... 447 
 
 Pure"e of chestnuts 449 
 
 Pure'e of spinach 448 
 
 Pure'e of tomatoes 448 
 
 Purees of vegetables .... 447 
 
 Ragout, chicken 457 
 
 Ragout, financiere 456 
 
 Ragout of game 457 
 
 Rice border 449 
 
 Royal custard 444 
 
 Veal force-meat 453 
 
 Vegetables, combinations of . 446 
 
 MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. 
 
 INTRODUCTION 462 
 
 Allemand 471 
 
 Anchovy 477 
 
 Anchovy butter 478 
 
 Asparagus ...... 475 
 
 Bearnaise 472 
 
 Bechamel yellow 470 
 
 Bread 482 
 
 Breton 481 
 
 Brown 467 
 
 Brown, clear 468 
 
 Brown, for fish 468 
 
 Butter 482 
 
 Caper 487 
 
 Chateaubriand 464 
 
 Chestnut brown .... 474 
 
 Chestnut white 474 
 
 Claret 485 
 
 Cranberry 488 
 
 Cranberry jelly 488 
 
 Cream . * 482 
 
 Currant jelly 485 
 
 Dutch . 471 
 
 Duxelles 465 
 
 Egg 482 
 
 Financiere 464 
 
 Hollandaise 472 
 
 Horseradish ..485 
 
 Lobster 476 
 
 Lob&ter butter 478 
 
INDEX. 
 
 955 
 
 MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. Continued. 
 
 
 Madeira 465 
 
 Matelote 484 
 
 Mint 488 
 
 Mushroom brown 465 
 
 Mushroom, simple 466 
 
 Mushroom white 466 
 
 Mustard cream 484 
 
 Mustard, hot 484 
 
 Olive brown 465 
 
 Orange 486 
 
 Oyster 475 
 
 Parsley 487 
 
 Piquant 486 
 
 Poulette . 470 
 
 Page 
 
 Ravigote 473 
 
 Ravigote butter 473 
 
 Remoulade 480 
 
 Shrimp 477 
 
 Shrimp butter 478 
 
 Simple, for poultry .... 468 
 
 Soubise . . 481 
 
 Spanish 463 
 
 Supreme 466 
 
 Tartar butter 480 
 
 Tartar green 479 
 
 Tomato 483 
 
 Venison 465 
 
 White . . . . 4i9 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 INTRODUCTION 489 
 
 Best if cooked soon after pick- 
 ing 490 
 
 Neglect to gather soon enough 489 
 Points to be remembered . . 490 
 When vegetables may be ap- 
 propriately used . . . 492 
 
 Classification 496 
 
 With beefsteak .... 494 
 
 With corned beef ... 494 
 
 With fish 493 
 
 With mutton and lamb . 494 
 
 With pork 495 
 
 With poultry and game . 495 
 
 With roast feef .... 493 
 
 With veal 495 
 
 A la jardiniere 528 
 
 Artichoke bottoms with Hol- 
 
 landaise sauce 535 
 
 Artichoke, French 532 
 
 Artichoke quarters with Dutch 
 
 sauce 534 
 
 Artichokes, stuffed .... 534 
 
 Asparagus, boiled 515 
 
 Asparagus points 515 
 
 Asparagus with eggs .... 515 
 
 Beans, baked 543 
 
 Beans, stewed 545 
 
 Brussels sprouts in cream sauce 523 
 
 Brussels sprouts saute . . . 523 
 
 Cabbage, creamed 521 
 
 Cabbage, escaloped .... 522 
 
 Cabbage, stewed 522 
 
 Carrots, stewed 510 
 
 Carrots with cream sauce . . 509 
 
 Cauliflower 520 
 
 Cauliflower, escaloped ... 521 
 
 Corn and tomatoes, escaloped . 520 
 
 Corn, canned 518 
 
 Corn, green, boiled . . 518 
 
 Corn, green, in cream . 518 
 
 Cucumbers, stuffed . . 531 
 
 Cucumbers, wilted . . 530 
 
 Curry of vegetables . . 529 
 
 Egg-plant, baked 526 
 
 Egg-plant, fried 525 
 
 Egg-plant, stuffed 526 
 
 Hominy, baked 543 
 
 Lima beans 519 
 
 Macaroni 537 
 
 Macaroni a la Milanaise . . . 539 
 
 Macaroni with brown sauce . 538 
 
 Macedoine of vegetables . . . 527 
 
 Mushrooms 535 
 
 Mushrooms, baked .... 536 
 
 Mushrooms, broiled .... 536 
 
 Mushrooms, stewed .... 535 
 
 Mushrooms stewed in cream . 536 
 
 Mushrooms, stuffed .... 537 
 
 Noodles 541 
 
 Okra, boiled 523 
 
 Onions, creamed ..... 511 
 
 Onions, escaloped 512 
 
 Onions, stuffed 512 
 
 Parsnip fritters 511 
 
 Parsnips, fried ...... 511 
 
 Parsnips with butter sauce . . 510 
 
 Peas, French 516 
 
 Peas, green 516 
 
 Peppers, stuffed 525 
 
 POTATOES 496 
 
 Potato balls 504 
 
 Potato balls with cream sauce . 505 
 
 Potato cakes 505 
 
956 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 VEGETABLES. Continued. 
 
 Page 
 
 Potato chowder 507 
 
 Potato omelet 499 
 
 Potato timbale 504 
 
 Potatoes au gratin 500 
 
 Potatoes, boiliug 497 
 
 Potatoes, casserole of .... 503 
 
 Potatoes, creamed 500 
 
 Potatoes, dry stew of . . . .503 
 
 Potatoes, Duchess 498 
 
 Potatoes, escaloped .... 499 
 
 Potatoes, hashed and browned . 501 
 Potatoes, hashed and browned, 
 
 in cream sauce 501 
 
 Potatoes, hashed, in cream . . 500 
 
 Potatoes, Lyonnaise .... 506 
 
 Potatoes, princess 498 
 
 Potatoes, roasted 505 
 
 Potatoes, Saratoga 506 
 
 Potatoes, saute"d 507 
 
 Potatoes, stewed 502 
 
 Potatoes, sweet, escaloped . . 509 
 
 Potatoes, sweet, French fried . 508 
 
 Potatoes, sweet, fried .... 508 
 
 Page 
 
 Potatoes, sweet, glazed . . . 509 
 Potatoes wanned in chicken- 
 gravy 502 
 
 Rice, boiled 541 
 
 Rice, boiled, Southern style . 542 
 
 Rice, curry of 542 
 
 Rice, Turkish 542 
 
 Salsify a la poulette . . . . 517 
 
 Salsify, boiled 516 
 
 Salsify, fried 517 
 
 Sauces, vegetables in . . . . 530 
 
 Spaghetti & 1'Italienne ... 539 
 
 Spaghetti and cheese .... 540 
 
 Spinach a la creme .... 524 
 
 Succotash 519 
 
 Tomato fritters 614 
 
 Tomatoes, baked 513 
 
 Tomatoes, breaded 
 Tomatoes, broiled 
 Tomatoes, sliced 
 Tomatoes, stewed 
 Turnips, ragout of 
 
 513 
 513 
 514 
 512 
 
 530 
 
 Turnips, stewed 510 
 
 SPECIAL ARTICLES. 
 
 BOILED DINNER 563 
 
 Meat, cooking 563 
 
 Vegetables, preparation of the 564 
 
 BRIOCHE PASTE 546 
 
 Baba 548 
 
 Brioche fritters 550 
 
 Brioche loaf, to be eaten plain 
 
 and hot 547 
 
 Savarin 549 
 
 Wine cakes 549 
 
 Calf's-brain force-meat balls . 557 
 
 Calf's head, curry of .... 557 
 
 Calf's head, jellied .... 558 
 
 Calf's head, terrapin fashion . 555 
 CALF'S HEAD, VARIOUS WAYS 
 
 OF USING A 554 
 
 Calf's head with bisque sauce . 556 
 
 Curry, Honolulu . . . . . 553 
 
 Curry, Madras ...... 552 
 
 Curry powder and its uses . . 551 
 
 MEATS, THE WARMING OVER OF 559 
 
 Cold meat au gratin . . . 562 
 Cold meat warmed in brown 
 
 sauce 561 
 
 Cold meat warmed with mac- 
 aroni 561 
 
 Cold meat warmed with mush- 
 rooms 561 
 
 Duck, cold, warmed with 
 
 olive sauce 562 
 
 Hashed meat on toast . . . 562 
 
 Sauce, brown ...... 561 
 
 Sauce, white 561 
 
 SALT-FISH DINNER, A ... 565 
 
 Beets, cooking the .... 566 
 
 Egg sauce 568 
 
 Fish, preparation of the . . 566 
 
 Pork scraps, making . . . 567 
 
 Serving the dinner .... 568 
 Vegetables, what to do with 
 
 the . 567 
 
 A GROUP OF SIMPLE DISHES. 
 
 Adirondack strawberry short- 
 cake 570 
 
 Bread griddle-cakes 
 
 575 
 
 Buckwheat, cakes 573 
 
 Cream waffles 571 
 
 Graham mush 580 
 
INDEX. 
 
 957 
 
 A GROUP OF SIMPLE DISHES. Continued. 
 
 Granulated yellow-meal mush 
 Griddle-cakes, bread . . . 
 Griddle-cakes, graham . . 
 Griddle-cakes, green corn . 
 Griddle-cakes, Indian . . 
 Griddle-cakes, rice . . . 
 Griddle-cakes, sweet-milk . 
 
 Hominy 
 
 Hominy, fried 
 
 Hominy snowflakes 
 
 Hominy waffles 
 
 Indian griddle-cakes . . 
 
 Indian waffles 
 
 Oatmeal 
 
 Oatmeal, baked .... 
 Peach short-cake .... 
 Pearled wheat mush . . . 
 Rice griddle-cakes .... 
 Rolled wheat mush . . . 
 
 Page Page 
 
 580 Rye mush 580 
 
 575 Strawberry short-cake . . . 570 
 
 575 Strawberry short-cake, Adiron- 
 
 576 dack 570 
 
 574 Sweet-milk griddle-cakes . . 574 
 
 575 Toast . 581 
 
 574 Toast, butter 581 
 
 579 Toast, cream 581 
 
 579 Toast, French 583 
 
 579 Toast, milk 582 
 
 572 Toasted crackers 582 
 
 574 Toasted pilot bread .... 583 
 572 Waffles, cream 571 
 
 576 Waffles, hominy 572 
 
 577 Waffles, Indian 572 
 
 569 Waffles, raised wheat .... 571 
 
 581 Wheat germ mush .... 578 
 
 575 Wheat waffles, raised .... 571 
 580 
 
 PIES. 
 
 Apple pie 588 
 
 Apple tart 589 
 
 Chantilly tarts ...... 599 
 
 Chocolate cream pie .... 597 
 
 Cream cheese tart 599 
 
 Cream pie 596 
 
 Currant tarts 591 
 
 Gooseberry tart 590 
 
 Lemon cre'am pie 594 
 
 Line plates for pies, how to . 592 
 
 Mince-meat 600 
 
 Mince-meat, cheap .... 602 
 
 Mince-meat, plain 601 
 
 Orange cream pie 595 
 
 Orange pie 
 
 Paste, plain, for pies 
 Potato pie ... 
 PUFF PASTE . . 
 Puff paste, chopped 
 Pumpkin pie . . 
 Rhubarb pie . . . 
 Squash pie ... 
 Swiss apple tartlet . 
 Washington pie 
 
 587 
 598 
 584 
 587 
 593 
 
 PUDDINGS. 
 
 INTRODUCTION ...... 603 
 
 COLD PUDDINGS. 
 
 Alpine 650 
 
 Banana cream 656 
 
 Bird's-nest 656 
 
 Cabinet 643 
 
 Chantilly 642 
 
 Chestnut 646 
 
 Chocolate 607 
 
 Cream 663 
 
 Cream meringue 654 
 
 Custard .659 
 
 Custard me'ringue .... 658 
 
 Farina 664 
 
 Flummery 662 
 
 Imperial . 648 
 
 Leche crema 663 
 
 Marquise 638 
 
 Meringue, cream .... 654 
 
 Me'ringue, custard .... 658 
 
 Me'ringue, strawberry . . . 654 
 
 New York rice 661 
 
 Oatmeal 664 
 
 Orange 659 
 
 Orange snow 647 
 
 Orleans 647 
 
 Peaoh-and-rice 612 
 
 Peach cream 656 
 
 Pineapple 652 
 
 Pineapple cream .... 656 
 
958 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 
 PUDDINGS. Continued. 
 
 Page 
 
 Queen 653 
 
 Rice balls with soft custard . 661 
 
 Rice, frozen 640 
 
 Rice, glazed 641 
 
 Rice, iced, a 1'Impe'ratrice . 639 
 
 Rod gro 657 
 
 Silver-and-gold 649 
 
 Snow 664 
 
 Strawberry 652 
 
 Strawberry meringue . . . 655 
 
 Sunset 649 
 
 Sweet pure"e of chestnuts with 
 
 whipped cream .... 645 
 
 Tapioca cream 657 
 
 Velvet 653 
 
 HOT PUDDINGS. 
 
 Apple-and-bread .... 622 
 
 Apple-and-rice 621 
 
 Apple, baked 616 
 
 Apple, Canadian .... 618 
 
 Apple custard 620 
 
 Apple duff 621 
 
 Apple dumplings, baked . . 620 
 
 Apple, layer 618 
 
 Apple, rolled 617 
 
 Apple, steamed 616 
 
 Apple, stewed 619 
 
 Baked Indian 628 
 
 Berry, baked 614 
 
 Berry, batter 614 
 
 Berry, Medford 615 
 
 Berry, steamed 613 
 
 Blueberry 614 
 
 Bread 607 
 
 Bride's 608 
 
 Brown 628 
 
 Brown Betty 622 
 
 Brown cap 622 
 
 Cherry, boiled 611 
 
 Chocolate 607 
 
 Corn-starch 604 
 
 Cottage 624 
 
 Cottage, steamed .... 624 
 
 Farina 604 
 
 Feather 625 
 
 French pancakes .... 631 
 
 Fritters, German .... 632 
 
 Fritters, peach, k la Dauphine 632 
 
 Fritters, Portuguese ... 633 
 
 German fritters 632 
 
 German puffs 626 
 
 Graham 625 
 
 Indian, baked 628 
 
 Medford berry 615 
 
 Minute 606 
 
 Pancakes, French .... 631 
 
 Page 
 
 Peach-and-rice 612 
 
 Peach-and-tapioca .... 613 
 
 Peach fritters a la Dauphine 632 
 
 Plum 630 
 
 Plum, delicate 630 
 
 Portuguese fritters .... 633 
 
 Prune 608 
 
 Quaking 629 
 
 Queen puffs 627 
 
 Rice, boiled 606 
 
 Rice caramel 605 
 
 Rice, plain 606 
 
 Sago, boiled 613 
 
 Snowballs 627 
 
 Souffles . 634 
 
 Dishes to be used ... 634 
 
 Fruit 636 
 
 Lemon 636 
 
 Omelet 635 
 
 Omelet a la Celestine . . 638 
 
 Orange omelet .... 637 
 
 Rum omelet 637 
 
 Vanilla omelet .... 635 
 
 Sponge 625 
 
 Sponge batter 623 
 
 Sponge roly-poly .... 610 
 
 Steamed batter 623 
 
 Steamed black 615 
 
 Steamed roly-poly .... 610 
 
 Tapioca ." 613 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 Brandy 665 
 
 Brown cap 666 
 
 Champagne, iced .... 672 
 
 Chocolate 671 
 
 Cinnamon 669 
 
 Cold 666 
 
 Cream 666 
 
 Egg 667 
 
 Golden 667 
 
 Iced champagne 672 
 
 Iced Madeira 672 
 
 Iced orange 672 
 
 Iced rum 672 
 
 Lemon 667 
 
 Lemon cream 668 
 
 Madeira, iced 672 
 
 Molasses 670 
 
 Nutmeg 669 
 
 Orange, iced 672 
 
 Rum, iced 672 
 
 Sabayon 668 
 
 Strawberry 669 
 
 Wine 665 
 
 Wine, clear 666 
 
INDEX. 
 
 959 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 Almond velvet cream . . . 
 
 Apple float 
 
 Apple sauce, dinner . . . . 
 Apple sauce, evaporated . . , 
 
 Apple trifle 
 
 Apples baked with butter . . 
 
 Apples, coddled 
 
 Apples, crystallized . . . . 
 Apples, glazed, with cream 
 
 Apples, iced 
 
 Apples, stewed, with cream 
 Bananas and whipped cream . 
 Bananas, baked . . . . . 
 Bavarian orange charlotte . . 
 Blanc-mange, chocolate . . 
 Blanc-mange, corn-starch . 
 Blanc-mange, fruit . 
 Blanc-mange, Taganrok . . . 
 Burnt almond charlotte . . . 
 
 Caledonian trifle 
 
 Cantaloupe charlotte . . . . 
 
 Caramel custard 
 
 Charlotte, Bavarian orange 
 Charlotte, burnt almond . . 
 Charlotte, cantaloupe . . 
 Charlotte, coffee . . . . . 
 
 Charlotte, orange 
 
 Charlotte russe 
 
 Charlotte russe in paper cases . 
 Charlotte russe on a bed of jelly 
 Charlotte russe without cream . 
 Charlotte, strawberry . . 
 Chocolate blanc-mange . . . 
 
 Coddled apples 
 
 Coffee charlotte 
 
 Corn-starch blanc-mange . . 
 Crystallized apples . . . . 
 
 Custard, caramel 
 
 Custard, orange 
 
 Custard, simple soft . . . . 
 
 Custard, tapioca 
 
 Custard, wine 
 
 FROZEN DISHES 
 
 Apples, frozen 
 
 Biscuit tortoni 
 
 Blackberries, frozen . . . 
 
 Granites 
 
 Granite, coffee 
 
 Granite, orange . . 
 
 Granite, raspberry . 
 
 Ice-cream, arrowroot 
 
 Ice-cream, biscuit . 
 
 Ice-cream, blueberry 
 
 Ice-cream, chestnut 
 
 Ice-cream, chocolate 
 
 Ice-cream, coffee 
 
 Page 
 728 
 718 
 739 
 740 
 719 
 737 
 737 
 736 
 736 
 735 
 735 
 734 
 735 
 721 
 733 
 732 
 732 
 733 
 722 
 719 
 724 
 731 
 721 
 722 
 724 
 725 
 720 
 725 
 727 
 727 
 726 
 723 
 733 
 737 
 725 
 732 
 736 
 731 
 730 
 731 
 729 
 730 
 674 
 692 
 686 
 691 
 689 
 691 
 690 
 690 
 677 
 679 
 681 
 680 
 678 
 678 
 
 Ice-cream, gelatine .... 677 
 
 Ice-cream, Neapolitan . . 678 
 
 Ice-cream, peach .... 680 
 
 Ice-cream, Philadelphia . . 676 
 
 Mousses 681 
 
 Mousse, caramel .... 684 
 
 Mousse, chocolate .... 682 
 
 Mousse, coffee 684 
 
 Mousse, Neapolitan ... 685 
 
 Mousse, peach 683 
 
 Mousse, strawberry . . . 683 
 
 Peaches, frozen 692 
 
 Raspberries, frozen .... 691 
 
 Roman punch 688 
 
 Sherbets 686 
 
 Sherbet, blackberry ... 688 
 
 Sherbet, currant * .... 688 
 
 Sherbet, lemon 687 
 
 Sherbet, orange 687 
 
 Sorbets 689 
 
 FROZEN RAW FRUITS ... 692 
 
 Apricots 694 
 
 Cantaloupe 693 
 
 Oranges 693 
 
 Oranges and bananas . . . 693 
 
 Peaches 693 
 
 Watermelon 693 
 
 Fruit blanc-mange 732 
 
 FRUITS 694 
 
 Almonds, caramel .... 700 
 
 Almonds, glazed .... 700 
 
 Almonds, salted .... 699 
 
 Almonds, sugared .... 700 
 
 Blackberries 696 
 
 Blueberries 696 
 
 Cantaloupe 695 
 
 Cherries 697 
 
 Chestnuts, roasted .... 701 
 
 Combinations of fruits . . 697 
 
 Crystallized fruit .... 696 
 
 Currants 696 
 
 Iced fruit 701 
 
 Mace"doine of fruit .... 716 
 
 Nuts, serving 699 
 
 Oranges and bananas . . . 696 
 
 Peaches 697 
 
 Pineapple 695 
 
 Raspberries 695 
 
 Strawberries 695 
 
 Watermelon 694 
 
 Glazed apples with cream . . 736 
 
 Iced apples 735 
 
 JELLIES 702 
 
 Apples, jellied 715 
 
 Clear, how to 703 
 
 Coffee jelly 709 
 
960 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 DESSE 
 
 Combination jelly .... 
 Dantzic jelly 
 
 RT. 
 
 Page 
 708 
 710 
 708 
 710 
 
 711 
 711 
 705 
 704 
 713 
 705 
 707 
 706 
 714 
 714 
 716 
 712 
 
 CA 
 
 742 
 
 743 
 742 
 
 766 
 752 
 758 
 764 
 772 
 769 
 760 
 772 
 748 
 747 
 748 
 772 
 773 
 774 
 775 
 774 
 751 
 750 
 768 
 
 768 
 767 
 770 
 768 
 766 
 771 
 769 
 765 
 749 
 
 Continued. 
 
 Page 
 712 
 707 
 728 
 720 
 730 
 716 
 741 
 738 
 739 
 738 
 739 
 723 
 720 
 733 
 729 
 729 
 730 
 
 757 
 
 755 
 763 
 764 
 761 
 756 
 749 
 766 
 745 
 751 
 750 
 770 
 749 
 744 
 745 
 747 
 745 
 765 
 767 
 752 
 775 
 778 
 777 
 778 
 778 
 777 
 779 
 779 
 778 
 777 
 778 
 
 Wine jellv 
 
 
 Maraschino Bavarian cream . 
 Orange charlotte 
 Orange custard 
 
 Maraschino jelly .... 
 Maraschino jelly with angel- 
 
 Peach chartreuse 
 Peach sauce, evaporated . . . 
 Pears, baked 
 Prunes, stewed 
 
 Maraschino jelly with peaches 
 Moulding and serving . . . 
 Moulds, removal from . . . 
 Neapolitan jelly 
 
 Orange baskets 
 Orange jelly 
 
 Rhubarb sauce ...... 
 Strawberry charlotte .... 
 Strawberry trifle 
 Taganrok blanc-mange . 
 Tapioca cream 
 Tapioca custard 
 Wine custard 
 
 Oranges, jellied 
 Peaches jellied 
 
 
 
 JNTRODUCTION 
 
 KE. 
 
 Lemon jelly 
 
 Mocha 
 
 
 Neapolitan 
 October . 
 Othello 
 
 Blueberry 
 
 Bread 
 
 Chocolate 
 
 Portsmouth orange . . . 
 
 Cocoanut 
 
 
 Cream cookies 
 
 Quaker sponge 
 Raised loaf 
 
 rirnllflrft 
 
 
 
 Scotch cakes 
 
 
 Delicate 
 
 
 
 
 Doughnuts, dropped .... 
 Doughnuts, plain 
 
 Sponge fingers, white .... 
 Sponge quaker 
 
 Tea hot 
 
 
 Trov molasses 
 Twelfth Night 
 
 Fiff loaf 
 
 
 ICE AND DECORATE, How TO . 
 Boiled icing 
 
 Gingerbread, Bath soft molasses 
 Gingerbread, Buffalo soft mo- 
 
 Chocolate icing 
 Cocoanut icing 
 
 Gingerbread, delicate molasses 
 Gingerbread, muster . . 
 Gingerbread, soft molasses 
 Gingerbread, soft sugar . 
 Gingerbread, sugar card . 
 Ginger-snaps .... 
 Ice-cream 
 Lemon cakes . 
 
 Cream icing 
 Fondant icings 
 Fruit fondant icings . . . 
 Orange icing ...... 
 
 Wine icing 
 
INDEX. 
 
 961 
 
 BREAD, ROLLS, AND MUFFINS. 
 
 Page 
 
 BISCUIT, cream 797 
 
 Biscuit, cream-of-tartar . . . 796 
 
 Biscuit, dropped 798 
 
 Biscuit, split 793 
 
 Biscuit, velvet 794 
 
 BREAD, buttermilk .... 785 
 
 Bread, corn 803 
 
 Bread, corn, Baltimore . . . 802 
 
 Bread, corn, Florida .... 802 
 
 Bread, corn, white 803 
 
 Bread, entire wheat . . . 783 
 
 Bread, graham . ... 784 
 
 Bread, ground rice . . . 801 
 
 Bread, hominy . ... 804 
 
 Bread, Indian . ... 800 
 
 Bread, Indian, steamec ... 800 
 
 Bread, potato . ... 782 
 
 Bread, pulled . . . . 7S6 
 
 Bread, quick Swedish ... 798 
 
 Bread, rye 784 
 
 Bread, water 781 
 
 Brown bread 799 
 
 Brown bread, English ... 799 
 
 Brown bread, Maiden .... 800 
 
 Buns, Bath 795 
 
 Buns, currant 795 
 
 Buns, hot cross 794 
 
 Corn bread 803 
 
 Corn bread, Baltimore ... 802 
 
 Corn bread, Florida .... 802 
 
 Corn bread, white 803 
 
 Corn cake, rice 805 
 
 Corn cake spider 805 
 
 Corn cake, thin 804 
 
 Corn dodgers 806 
 
 Corn muffins 806 
 
 Corn muffins, Trenton ... 807 
 
 Cream muffins 808 
 
 Crumpets 814 
 
 Drop cakes, wheat 816 
 
 Federal loaf 786 
 
 Fried raised cakes 817 
 
 Gems, wheat 815 
 
 Graham muffins, fried . . . 811 
 
 Page 
 
 Graham muffins, Kentucky . . 810 
 
 Graham muffins, raised . " . . 809 
 
 Graham puffs 810 
 
 Hominy bread 804 
 
 Hominy muffins 808 
 
 Indian bread 800 
 
 Indian-bread brewis .... 801 
 
 Indian bread, steamed . . . 800 
 
 Johnny-cake 804 
 
 Lapland cakes 816 
 
 MUFFINS cooked on the griddle 813 
 
 Muffins, corn 806 
 
 Muffins, cream 808 
 
 Muffins, Elmira 808 
 
 Muffins, entire-wheat .... 809 
 
 Muffins, graham, fried . . . 811 
 
 Muffins, graham, raised . . . 809 
 
 Muffins, granulated-wheat . . 809 
 
 Muffins, hominy 808 
 
 Muffins, Kentucky graham . . 810 
 
 Muffins, luncheon 815 
 
 Muffins, oatmeal, baked . . . 812 
 
 Muffin?, oatmeal, fried ... 812 
 
 Muffins, rice 807 
 
 Muffins, Trenton corn . . . 807 
 
 Oatmeal muffins, baked . . . 812 
 
 Oatmeal muffins, fried . . . 812 
 
 Parker House rolls .... 787 
 
 Pop-overs, rye 817 
 
 Poverty cakes 816 
 
 Rice muffins 807 
 
 ROLLS, luncheon 792 
 
 Rolls, Parker House .... 787 
 
 Rolls, potato 790 
 
 Rolls, Washington 789 
 
 Rolls, White Mountain . . . 791 
 
 Rye pop-overs 817 
 
 Scotch oat cakes 812 
 
 Wheat drop cakes 816 
 
 Wheat gems 815 
 
 YEAST 780 
 
 Yeast, hop 780 
 
 Yeast, hop-and-potato . . . 781 
 
 BEVERAGES. 
 
 Broma 824 j COFFEE 819 
 
 CHOCOLATE 822 I Coffee, boiled 820 
 
 Coffee, Creole 822 
 
 Coffee, filtered 821 
 
 Coffee, to roast 820 
 
 Refreshing drink, a 
 
 Chocolate, plain 823 
 
 Chocolate, rich 823 
 
 COCOA, breakfast 824 
 
 Cocoa, cracked 824 
 
 Cocoa shells 824 
 
 Cocoatiua. ... . . 824 
 
 Soda cream 825 
 
 1 TEA. A CUP OF 818 
 
 61 
 
962 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 
 PRESERVING. 
 
 INTRODUCTION 
 
 General directions, a few . 
 
 Jars to use, what kind of . 
 
 Utensils needed 
 
 Apple jelly 
 
 Apples and quinces, canned . 
 
 Apples, canned 
 
 Barberry jelly 
 
 Blackberries, canned .... 
 Blackberries, pickled .... 
 Blackberries, preserved . . . 
 Blackberries preserved without 
 
 cooking 
 
 Blackberry cordial .... 
 
 Blackberry jam 
 
 Blackberry jelly ..... 
 
 Brandied fruit 
 
 Chow-chow 
 
 Chow-chow, Albany ... . 
 Chow-chow of ripe cucumbers 
 
 and onions 
 
 Chutney, American .... 
 
 Chutney, India 
 
 Corn and tomatoes, canned . . 
 
 Crab-apple jelly 
 
 Cucumber pickles 
 
 Currant jelly 
 
 Currants, spiced 
 
 Grape jelly 
 
 Grapes, spiced 
 
 Green grape jelly 
 
 Green tomato soy 
 
 India chutney 
 
 JELLIES 
 
 Jelly, apple 
 
 Jelly, barberry 
 
 Jelly, blackberry 
 
 Page Page 
 
 827 Jelly, crab-apple 840 
 
 828 Jelly, currant 837 
 
 828 Jelly, grape 840 
 
 828 Jelly, green grape 839 
 
 840 Jelly, peach 840 
 
 834 Jelly, quince 840 
 
 835 Jelly, raspberry 840 
 
 840 Ketchup, tomato 850 
 
 835 Mace"doine preserve .... 831 
 
 843 Okra and tomatoes .... 845 
 834 Peach jelly 840 
 
 Peach marmalade 835 
 
 833 Pear preserve 830 
 
 842 Pickle, combination .... 847 
 
 836 Pickles, cucumber 846 
 
 840 Pineapple, preserved .... 834 
 
 836 Quince jelly 840 
 
 847 Raspberries preserved in cur- 
 
 848 rant juice 832 
 
 Raspberries preserved in their 
 
 849 own juice 832 
 
 849 Raspberries preserved without 
 
 849 cooking 833 
 
 844 Raspberry jam 836 
 
 840 Raspberry jelly 840 
 
 846 Raspberry syrup 841 
 
 837 Raspberry vinegar .... 842 
 
 843 Strawberries preserved in their 
 
 840 own juice 832 
 
 843 Strawberries preserved without 
 
 839 cooking 833 
 
 850 Succotash 845 
 
 849 Syrup, to make and clarify . 829 
 
 837 Tomato ketchup . . . " . . 850 
 
 840 Tomatoes, canned 844 
 
 840 Tomatoes, whole, how to can . 843 
 840 
 
 FOOD FOR THE SICK. 
 
 INTRODUCTION 852 
 
 Apple water 867 
 
 Arrowroot gruel 865 
 
 Bacon, broiled 856 
 
 Barley soup 863 
 
 Barley water 867 
 
 Beef croquettes 855 
 
 Beef extract 859 
 
 Beef juice 860 
 
 Beef sandwiches 855 
 
 Beef tea 859 
 
 Beef tea, frozen 860 
 
 Beefsteak 853 
 
 Blanc-mange 873 
 
 | Brandy, burnt 876 
 
 I Broth, chicken 861 
 
 i Broth, clam 861 
 
 Broth, mutton 861 
 
 Buttermilk 866 
 
 i Caudle . 865 
 
 i Chicken broth 861 
 
 ! Chicken jelly 862 
 
 I Chop, victimized 854 
 
 Chops, plain broiled .... 855 
 
 Clam broth 861 
 
 Codfish,-broiled salt .... 857 
 
 Constipation, simple cure for . 876 
 
 Cracker gruel 864 
 
INDEX. 
 
 963 
 
 FOOD FOR THE SICK. Continued. 
 
 Cream-of-rice soup . . 
 Cream-of-tartar whey . 
 Cream toast . . .* . . 
 
 Crust coffee 
 
 Currant water .... 
 Custard, soft .... 
 
 Egg nog 
 
 Egg tea 
 
 Exotique jelly .... 
 Exotique pudding . . . 
 Fish, broiled .... 
 Flaxseed lemonade . . 
 
 Game 
 
 Graham gruel .... 
 Graham wafers .... 
 Grouse, broiled breast of 
 Gruel, arrowroot . . . 
 
 Gruel, cracker 
 
 Gruel, flour 865 
 
 Gruel, graham 864 
 
 Gruel, Indian meal .... 864 
 
 Gruel, oatmeal 865 
 
 Ice-cream 874 
 
 Indian meal gruel 864 
 
 Indigestion, simple cure for . 876 
 Jelly, Charlotte Cushman's . 862 
 
 Jelly, chicken 862 
 
 Jelly, exotique 872 
 
 Jelly, restorative . . . . . 873 
 
 Jelly, tapioca 872 
 
 Koumiss 870 
 
 Lemon moss, a drink for the 
 
 lungs 870 
 
 Lemon sherbet 875 
 
 Lemon whey 866 
 
 Lemonade, "flaxseed .... 868 
 
 Macaroni soup 863 
 
 Milk punch 869 
 
 Milk toast 871 
 
 Mulled wine 868 
 
 Mutton broth 861 
 
 Mutton juice 860 
 
 Oatmeal gruel 865 
 
 Oatmeal mush 875 
 
 Orange sherbet 875 
 
 Oyster roast 858 
 
 Page Page 
 
 862 Oyster stew 858 
 
 866 Oysters roasted in the shell . 858 
 
 871 Oysters, steamed 858 
 
 868 Partridge, broiled breast of . . 856 
 
 867 Quail on toast 856 
 
 873 Rice porridge 864 
 
 869 Rice soup 863 
 
 869 Rice water 867 
 
 872 Sago soup 863 
 
 872 Salt fish in cream 857 
 
 857 Sherbet, lemon 875 
 
 868 Sherbet, orange 875 
 
 855 Sippets 861 
 
 864 Squab on toast 856 
 
 871 I Soup, barley 863 
 
 856 Soup, cream-of-rice .... 862 
 
 865 Soup, macaroni 863 
 
 864 Soup, rice 863 
 
 Soup, sago 863 
 
 Soup, tapioca 863 
 
 Sour milk whey 866 
 
 Steak, round 854 
 
 Tamarind water . . . 
 
 Tapioca jelly 
 Tapioca puddi 
 
 ding 
 
 866 
 872 
 872 
 863 
 871 
 
 Tapioca soup 
 Toast, cream 
 
 Toast, milk 871 
 
 Toast, water 871 
 
 Toast water 868 
 
 Venison steak 855 
 
 Vinegar whey 866 
 
 Water, apple 867 
 
 Water, barley 867 
 
 Water, currant 867 
 
 Water, rice 867 
 
 Water, tamarind 866 
 
 Water, toast 868 
 
 Water toast 871 
 
 Whey, cream-of-tartar ... 866 
 
 Whey, lemon 866 
 
 Whey, sour milk 866 
 
 Whey, vinegar 866 
 
 Wine, mulled 868 
 
 Winewhev 865 
 
 WHAT ALL HOUSEKEEPL X S SHOULD 
 KNOW. 
 
 Beating and stirring, about . . 880 
 
 Bread crumbs, how to dry . . 887 
 
 Bread crumbs, how to fry . . 887 
 
 Bread crumbs, how to grate . 886 
 
 Bread, how to butter and roll . 885 
 
 Breading articles for frying, 
 about 888 
 
 Butter for greasing pans, how 
 to wash. . .?.... 882 
 
 Butter-hands, how to use . . 882 
 
964 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 WHAT ALL HOUSEKEEPERS SHOULD 
 KNOW. Continued. 
 
 Butter, how to cream .... 882 
 
 Caramel, how to make ... 890 
 
 Chervil, how to dry .... 893 
 Chervil vinegar, the way to 
 
 make $ 
 
 Cochineal, liquid, how to pre- 
 pare 895 
 
 Cupful, fractions of a, how to 
 
 measure 877 
 
 Devonshire cream, what it is, 
 
 and its uses 894 
 
 Fat boils over, what to do if . 896 
 Food in a refrigerator, how to 
 
 keep 894 
 
 Garlic vinegar is made, how . 892 
 
 Gelatine, how to dissolve . . 888 
 
 Lemon sugar 890 
 
 Lime water, how to make . . 893 
 
 Lobster, an easv way to kill a . 892 
 
 Lobster coral, now to preserve . 893 
 Me*ringue, how to make and 
 
 bake a 885 
 
 Olives, how and when to serve . 885 
 
 Onion juice, how to get . . . 891 
 
 Orange flower sugar .... 890 
 
 Orange sugar 889 
 
 Orange zest 889 
 
 Page 
 Oven heat when baking, good 
 
 tests of 878 
 
 Oven, points about the use of the 878 
 
 Parsley, how to dry .... 893 
 Paste or batter of "flour and a 
 
 liquid, how to make a ... 879 
 
 Raisins, how to stone .... 894 
 Refrigerator, food in a, hovr to 
 
 keep 894 
 
 Rose sugar 890 
 
 Sardines, how to serve . . . 885 
 
 Soap, soft, how to make ... 896 
 
 Stirring and beating, about . . 880 
 
 Sugar, how to flavor .... 889 
 
 Sugar, lemon 890 
 
 Sugar, orange 889 
 
 Sugar, orange flower .... 890 
 
 Sugar, rose 890 
 
 Sugar, vanilla 890 
 
 Tarragon vinegar, how to make 892 
 Thickening, the way to add, to a 
 
 boiling liquid 880 
 
 Vegetable balls, how to make . 883 
 Vinegar, chervil, how to make . 892 
 Vinegar, garlic, how to make . 892 
 Vinegar, tarragon, how to make 892 
 Weights in measure, equiva- 
 lents of 877 
 
 BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 INTRODUCTION 898 
 
 BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 Christmas dinners .... 919 
 
 Company breakfasts . . . 903 
 
 Company dinners .... 910 
 
 Company luncheons . . . 908 
 
 Emergencies, in 902 
 
 Family bills for all seasons . 921 
 
 Game dinner 912 
 
 Gentlemen's dinners . . . 913 
 
 Gentlemen's suppers . . . 914 
 
 Lenten fare 912 
 
 One-o'clock luncheon . . . 906 
 
 Oyster supper 912 
 
 Supper, a little 912 
 
 Supper for a dancing-party . 915 
 
 Supper for one hundred guests 915 
 
 Thanksgiving dinners . . . 918 
 
 Wedding breakfasts ... 917 
 
 Breakfast 898 
 
 BREAKFASTS, COMPANY . . 903 
 
 Spring . 903 
 
 Summer 903 
 
 Fall 903 
 
 Winter 903 
 
 Breakfasts, wedding .... 916 
 
 Christmas dinners 917 
 
 Bills of fare 919 
 
 Company breakfasts . . . 903 
 
 Company dinners and suppers 909 
 
 Company luncheons . . . 904 
 
 Dinner, game 912 
 
 DINNERS, COMPANY . . . 909 
 
 Spring and early summer . 910 
 
 Summer and early autumn 910 
 
 Autumn and winter . . . 911 
 
 Winter 911 
 
 Dinners, gentlemen's . . . 913 
 
 Dinners, simple home . . 899 
 
 Emergencies, in 901 
 
 Dinner bills of fare ... 902 
 Luncheon bills of fare . . 902 
 What to serve when unex- 
 pected guests come . . . 901 
 
INDEX. 
 
 965 
 
 BILLS OF FARE. Continued. 
 
 Page 
 
 FAMILY BILLS OF FARE FOR 
 ALL SEASONS. 
 
 January 921 
 
 February 923 
 
 March 925 
 
 April 927 
 
 May 929 
 
 June 931 
 
 July 933 
 
 August 934 
 
 September 936 
 
 October 938 
 
 November 940 
 
 December 942 
 
 Family luncheons 899 
 
 Game dinner 912 
 
 Gentlemen's dinners .... 913 
 
 Spring 913 
 
 Summer 913 
 
 Fall 914 
 
 Winter 914 
 
 Gentlemen's suppers .... 914 
 
 Lenten fare 912 
 
 Breakfast 912 
 
 Company dinners .... 913 
 
 Dinners 912 
 
 Luncheon 912 
 
 Supper 913 
 
 LUNCHEONS, COMPANY . . . 904 
 Bills of Fare. 
 
 Spring 909 
 
 Pag 
 
 Summer 909 
 
 Fall 908 
 
 Winter 908 
 
 Decoration of the table . . 905 
 
 Finger-bowls 906 
 
 One-o'clock luncheon . . . 906 
 
 Bill of fare 906 
 
 Time for cooking and serv- 
 ing 908 
 
 Oysters and soup .... 904 
 
 Plan to be commended, a . . 904 
 
 Soup 904 
 
 Wine, use of 904 
 
 Luncheons, family 899 
 
 Lunches for tennis parties . . 919 
 
 Oyster supper 912 
 
 Party suppers 915 
 
 Dancing-party of fifty . . . 915 
 
 Supper for one hundred guests 915 
 
 Picnics, what to take to . . . 921 
 
 Spring, changes advisable in . 900 
 
 Supper, a little 912 
 
 Supper, oyster 912 
 
 SUPPERS, COMPANY .... 909 
 
 Suppers, gentlemen's .... 914 
 
 Tennis parties, lunches for . . 919 
 
 Thanksgiving and Christmas . 917 
 Warm weather, a tempting 
 
 table in 900 
 
 Wedding breakfasts .... 916 
 
 NOTE. 
 
 Housekeepers are reminded that the receipts which are starred (*) 
 are for simple dishes. They are also advised to study the index suffi- 
 ciently to become familiar with it. Not all the dishes of meat are in- 
 cluded in the chapter on "Various Modes of Cooking Meat." Some 
 will be found among the entrees and in the chapter on " Food for the 
 Sick." And so with other kinds of dishes. The index to a cook- 
 book should be of great value, yet the average housekeeper does not 
 take pains to become well enough acquainted with it to avail herself 
 of all the advantages which the book offers. She may waste many 
 
966 INDEX. 
 
 precious moments searching for a favorite receipt which could be 
 found without the least delay if she took a little time now and then 
 to study the index. A dish may be entered in several places, yet not 
 be found just where some housekeeper, unacquainted with the prin- 
 ciples on which index-makers work, expects to find it, and the unfortu- 
 nate conclusion may be hastily reached that the book does not contain 
 the receipt. The foregoing index has been carefully prepared, and it is 
 hoped that all who use the KITCHEN COMPANION may find it one of 
 the most helpful departments. 
 
 University Press : John Wilson & Son, Cambridge 
 
ROYAL 
 
 BAKING 
 
 POWDER 
 
 
 Absolutely Pure. 
 
 Whenever soda and cream-of-tartar are called for in any receipt for 
 cooking, better results will be obtained by using the ROYAL BAKING 
 POWDER. It will render the food lighter, sweeter, and more palatable 
 and wholesome. 
 
 The ROYAL BAKING POWDER avoids all decomposition in the flour 
 as caused by yeast raising, thereby saving a large percentage of its most 
 nutritive elements. Food raised by the ROYAL BAKING POWDER may 
 be eaten while hot even by dyspeptics, with impunity. 
 
 Mrs. ELLEN H. RICHARDS, Instructor in Sanitary Chemistry in the 
 Massachusetts Institute of Technology, says : " Baking Powders pre- 
 pared from soda and cream-of-tartar chiefly are, when put up in tin cans 
 with the maker's name and label, much more reliable than any other 
 form of bread-raising preparation." 
 
 Miss PARLOA, writing recently to a friend who asked her opinion of 
 baking powders, said : " I should hesitate to use such powders freely 
 without first being satisfied of the purity of the ingredients used in 
 making them. But it seems to me that the ROYAL BAKING POWDER, 
 which is manufactured in New York, is as good as any can be. I have 
 used it a great deal, and always with satisfaction." 
 
 U. S. Government Chemist, Prof. H. A. MOTT, after analyzing the 
 chief baking powders for the government, reported: "The ROYAL 
 BAKING POWDER is absolutely pure. I will go still further, and state 
 that because of the facilities that company have for obtaining perfectly 
 pure cream-of-tartar, and for other reasons depending upon the proper 
 proportions of the same, and the methods of its preparation, the ROYAL 
 BAKING POWDER is undoubtedly the purest and most reliable baking 
 powder offered to the public." 
 
 The ROYAL BAKING POWDER is of higher strength than any other 
 powder, and therefore more economical in use. 
 
Established A.&. 18O1. 
 
 BKNT & CO., 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF THE 
 
 AND FANCY BISCUITS. 
 
 Guaranteed absolute- 
 ly PUEE. Hand-Made 
 from Choicest Flour. 
 They are easy of diges- 
 tion. 
 
 Recommended by emi- 
 nent physicians on both 
 sides of the Atlantic 
 Ocean. 
 
 Buy only the Genuine, 
 which bear the stamp 
 of the makers. 
 
 The finest Crackers 
 for dessert. 
 
 Used at all the first- 
 class Hotels. 
 
 For more than four- 
 score years these Crack- 
 ers have been un- 
 equalled for excellence, 
 and for their superior 
 keeping qualities. 
 
 Sold by first-class 
 grocers everywhere. 
 
 SEND STAMP FOR OUR REFERENCE BOOK. 
 
 BENT & CO., - - Milton, Mass. 
 
 BENT & CO.'S CRACKER MEAL 
 
 is one of the most extensively used articles now in the market, 
 and is the only article of its kind manufactured from their cele- 
 brated Hand- Made Water Crackers, which are the purest and best 
 crackers made, and is warranted not to contain any acids, grease, 
 lard, or saleratus. It is absolutely pure, and will keep for a long 
 time ; is used by the best cooks in New York and Boston, and very 
 highly indorsed and used by the Boston Cooking School as the 
 only article that they had yet found that came up fully to the require- 
 ments, in which to fry clams, oysters, cutlets, etc. 
 
 Bent & Co.'s Cracker Meal is put up in i Ib. cartons, and 
 in every carton is enclosed forty receipts, written expressly for 
 BENT & Co., by Mrs. HESTER M. POOLE, of New York, who 
 has thoroughly tried every receipt. 
 
ESTABLISHED 1780. 
 
 WALTER BAKER & CO., 
 
 DOKCHESTER, MASS., 
 Manufactwers of 
 
 BAKER'S PREMIUM 
 
 NO. I CHOCOLATE. 
 
 The very best preparation of plain 
 Chocolate in the market, for home 
 consumption or confectioners' use. 
 
 BAKER'S VANILLA CHOCOLATE 
 
 Is a delicious article, possessing the pure 
 rich flavor of the Cocoa and Vanilla Bean, 
 h excellent for eating or drinking. 
 
 IT IS 
 DELICIOUS. 
 
 IT IS 
 REFRESHING. 
 
 BAKER'S BREAKFAST COCOA, 
 
 Warranted absolutely pure Cocoa, from 
 which the excess of oil has been removed 
 Nourishing, strengthening, easily digested. 
 Costing less than one cent a cup. 
 
 BAKER'S BROMA. 
 
 ~ 
 
 An excellent food for invalids, very 
 desirable for children, and unrivalled in 
 delicacy and aroma. 
 
 rr is 
 
 NOURISHING*. 
 
 GERMAN SWEET CHOCOLATE, 
 
 A well-made cup of this Chocolate will be found not onl 
 palatable, but nutritious and healthful. 
 
 IT IS SOLD EVERYWHERE. 
 
BURNETTS STANDARD EXTRACTS. 
 
 Pre-eminently superior. 11 Parker House, 
 
 The best in the world." Fifth Avenue Hotel, 
 
 Used exclusively for years." Southern Hotel, 
 
 We use them exclusively." Riggs House, 
 
 We use no other." Grand Pacific, 
 
 The Standard Extracts." Occidental, 
 
 Boston. 
 
 New York. 
 
 St. Louis. 
 
 Washington. 
 
 Chicago. 
 
 San Francisco. 
 
 THOUGHTFUL PEOPLE SHOULD BEAD THE TESTIMONIALS 
 BELOW FROM COOKS OF NATIONAL REPUTATION. 
 
 JOSEPH BURNETT & Co., BOSTON: 
 
 Gentlemen, I have used your Extracts for years, knowing them the best 
 to be found in the market. 
 
 MARIA PARLOA, 
 
 School of Cookery, Treraont Street. 
 
 From PROF. BLOT. 
 
 A good dish is often spoiled or rendered unpalatable by the use of a detest- 
 ably cheap, impure, and deleterious Flavoring Extract. In answer to inquiries 
 from the ladies of my various classes, I invariably reply that during the past 
 two years of my lectures on cookery, "I certainly prefer those prepared by 
 Joseph Burnett & Co., of Boston, above all others." 
 
 P. BLOT. 
 
 O. W. PACKER'S 
 
 FAMILY 
 
 "STANDARD" 
 
 ICE-CREAM 
 FREEKERS. 
 
 The superior principles upon which the Standard Freezers are con- 
 structed, and their popularity and success, have earned for them the reputation 
 of being 
 
 BEST I0E-GREAM FREEZERS 
 
 ever introduced, and they have been awarded the highest premiums. No 
 expense is spared in the manufacture; the best materials only ^are used; and 
 improvements have been introduced by which strength, durability, neatness, 
 and efficiency are secured; also, the perfection and simplicity of the mechani- 
 cal arrangements guarantee the freezing of Cream, Fruits, Water Ices, etc., in 
 the shortest possible time and most satisfactory manner. 
 
 Recommended by Miss Parloa. For sale by dealers in House 
 Furnishing Goods generally. 
 
 CHARLES W. PACKER, Manufacturer, Philadelphia. 
 
"DRY AIR" AND "COLD WAVE" 
 
 REFRIGERATORS 
 
 ARE THE BEST FAMILY REFRIGERATORS IN THE WORLD, 
 
 Only Gold Medal, over all Competitors in actual practical 
 trial, at World's Cotton Centennial Exposition, New 
 Orleans, L,a., 1884-85. 
 
 Highest Medals at innumerable expositions throughout the land, 
 Used in the United States Army and Marine Hospitals. 
 The modern housekeeper will want no other after examining the 
 Baldwin. 
 
 If not on sale in your vicinity ask your dealer to procure you the " Baldwin." 
 Do not let dealers, representing other refrigerators, influence you against purchas- 
 ing the " Baldwin." Insist upon seeing the " Baldwin," and if you cannot procure 
 through your regular dealer write to us, and we will send you descriptive circulars, 
 and inform you as to the best way for you to procure our refrigerators. 
 
 THE BALDWIN MANUFACTURING CO., 
 
 BUELINGTON, VT. 
 
MAGEE STANDARD 
 
 RANGES ANB ST0VES 
 
 Careful preparation of food will avail nothing in desired 
 results unless supplemented by a good cooking apparatus. 
 A good cook will therefore insist on the best stove or 
 range as a "sine qua non." 
 
 $3f-MISS PARLOA ALWAYS USES AND RECOMMENDS 
 THE MACEE AS SUCH. e= m 
 
 Our aim is to produce the best article possible, regardless 
 of cost, knowing from long experience that " the best is the 
 cheapest " in every way, economy, durability, convenience, 
 sure baking qualities. All are obtained in the highest de- 
 gree in the Magee goods, and every stove is warranted in 
 every particular. Be sure and examine them carefully before 
 buying any other. 
 
 For sale by our agents throughout the United States, and 
 manufactured by 
 
 THE MAGEE FURNACE CO., 
 
 32, 34, 36, & 38 Union St., 19, 21, 23, 25, & 27 Friend St., 
 BOSTON, MASS. 
 
 Foundries at Chelsea. 
 
LESSONS IN COOKING 
 
 HP HE best of housekeepers may learn something from others. Those 
 -^ who have had wide experience may yet profit themselves consid- 
 erably by attending a lecture on cooking. In the last ten years 
 
 MISS PARLOA 
 
 has given almost nine hundred public lessons at her Schools of Cookery 
 in Boston and New York, to Harvard medical students, pupils in semi- 
 naries and private schools, hospital nurses, and others, in various parts 
 of the country. She is prepared to make new engagements and to 
 furnish specimen programmes, estimates of expense of a course, etc., to 
 ladies who may desire to plan for the giving of a series of lectures in the 
 city or town in which they reside. 
 
 Her practice is, in brief, to read some of her own tested receipts, and 
 then carefully follow them, clearly explaining each step, and answering 
 any questions which her pupils may ask. At the close of the lesson the 
 dishes which have been made are served to the audience. 
 
 Address 
 
 MISS MARIA PABLOA, 
 
 Boston, Mass. 
 
 A FEW COMMENTS OF THE PRESS. 
 
 " Miss Parloa stands among the best teachers in cookery. She cooks with her own 
 hands, and explains as the work goes on. Her instructions are perfectly clear, and she 
 makes no fuss about her work, and no unnecessary disorder, however many dishes she has 
 on hand. If one will attend a lecture, and then imagine a cook undertaking to make the 
 same variety of dishes with fifty strangers in the kitchen watching, and asking questions, 
 one will see the difference between cooking as it is and cooking as it should be ; and yet 
 Miss Parloa's whole method is within the reach of any intelligent woman ; it demands no 
 knowledge of art, science, or literature ; it is common-sense and experience practically 
 applied, and something that can be easily learned." Boston Advertiser. 
 
 " The lecturer described the processes by which delectable dishes may be most cheaply 
 and excellently made, using receipts which have resulted from her experiments. The dex- 
 terity with which she handled the various culinary implements and ingredients won much 
 admiration." New York Times. 
 
 " Miss Parloa's school is proving itself an educative centre of the community ; cooking 
 becomes a work of science and intelligence, not a mere ignorant drudgery, whose results 
 are beyond calculation or prophecy." Woman's Journal. 
 
 " One of the most prominent characteristics of these lectures of Miss Parloa is the 
 absorbed attention which every one of her listeners gives to her words and movements. 
 They seem anxious not to lose a word either o*" her clear explanations or of her general 
 advice upon housekeeping affairs. " New York Tribune. 
 
 " Many a despised article of food will be restored to our tables through Miss Parloa's 
 influence, while standard meats and vegetables will appear in fresh disguises to tempt the 
 palate. Miss Parloa's classes include a number of society women who make a study of 
 cookery for the purpose of enhancing the variety of their frequent dinner parties. They 
 are among the most appreciative and grateful, for she gives them in every day's lesson 
 enough hints to help them through a whole season of dinners." Buffalo Courier. 
 
MISS PARLOA'S OTHER BOOKS. 
 
 MISS PAELOA'S NEW COOK BOOK 
 
 AND MARKETING QUIDE. 
 
 Oue of the best and most popular Cook Books ever issued. 
 Over fifty thousand copies have been sold. 
 
 1 vol., 12mo, cloth, black and red $1.50 
 
 1 vol., 12mo, kitchen edition, with waterproof cloth, plain 
 
 stamped 1.50 
 
 " It is sure of a wide and instant welcome from the hundreds of house- 
 keepers who have profited by the author's lectures on cookery, and by 
 hundreds of others who have not been so fortunate. It is marked by 
 strong good sense, and contains a large number of receipts in every 
 department of cookery. The directions are clear and concise, and the 
 chapters on marketing and kitchen furnishing are very useful." Boston 
 Journal. 
 
 "It should be in the possession of every housekeeper in the land. 
 The author is thoroughly skilled in everything relating to cooking. We 
 cannot too highly commend this volume." Boston Advertiser. 
 
 " This is a book that every mother, every housekeeper, must surely 
 need. It is to the autocrat of the household what the dictionary is to 
 the writer. The author is widely known as a thoroughly practical cook, 
 and as a popular lecturer in the gastronomic art." New York Star. 
 
 CAMP COOKERY. 
 HOW TO LIVE IN A CAMP. 
 
 BY Miss PARLOA, 
 
 Principal of the New York Cooking School, and Author of " Miss 
 Parloa's New Cook Book." 
 
 1 vol., 18mo, cloth 60 cents. 
 
 Sent, prepaid, on receipt of price, by 
 
 ESTES & LAUBIAT, Boston, Mass. 
 

 
 
LIBRARY USE 
 
 RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED 
 
 THIS BOOK IS DUE BEFORE CLOSING TIME 
 ON LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW 
 
 1078^- 
 
 
 
 , 9;9 
 
 JUN 1 2 1984