VlBRAR? OF THE UNIVERSITY . OF JjCRUSAXrEM And MT MortiAH. H \ k L ^L^ fci CD Bntorod accordiucj to Act of Congres?, in the j-ear 187T), by tlie TEMPLE rUBLTSHIXCr XJXIOX, In \hc Oiricp of the Librarian of Con'_'ress. at WashuiLrton. a' s^^^, M MMi 15/ ^% I PEEFAOE. Within a fe"w years past, extensive explorations have been carried on throughout the East, which have resulted in remarkable discoveries in nearly all of the ancient and renowned cities known to sacred history. Among the most important of these discoveries are those made in Jerusalem, in the excavations around and under the Temple site — among the ruins of King Solo- mon's store cities, Baalbek, Tadmor, and Hamath — at Babylon, Nineveh, and Shushan. These discoveries have awakened an interest that will not be satisfied with anything less than a description of the ruins of all the important cities of the East. In the ordinary works of Eastern travelers and writers, so much space is given to incidents of travel, and the speculations of travelers, that but little room is left for a description of antiquities or relics. The aim of this work is to comprise in a convenient compass the results of all the important explorations i^^^'jf'v^^/ and excavations made in the East;— especially among the ruins of King Solomon's cities. To this end, this work has been made strictly descriptive and historical; yet containing only enough of history to render the subject intelligible. By this plan a description of the ruins, as now seen, of forty of the most famous cities of antiquity is given in the space of this volume. The Author. f or rn/ UNIYERS: CONTENTS CHAPTER I. JERUSALEM. ITS ORIGIN, AND A SKETCH OF ITS HISTORY. ORIGIN— ASSAULT AND CAPTURE OP THE CITY BY DAVID— DAVID' 9 DEATH HE IS SUCCEEDED BY SOLOMON, WHO BUILDS THE MAGNIFICENT TEMPLE, AND THE STORE CITIES SIEGE OF JERUSALEM BY TITUS, IT IS TAKEN AT MID- NIGHT WANTON DESTRUCTION OF THE TEMPLE BY FIRE PAGE 17 CHAPTER II. A SKETCH OF THE TOPOGRAPHY OF THE CITY AND ADJOIN- ING COUNTRY. JERUSALEM — ^VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT — VALLEY OF HIN- NOM — THE TYROPCEON — WALLS — VIA DOLOROSA — DAVID STREET. PAGE 45 CHAPTER III. RELICS, OBJECTS AND PLACES OF INTEREST. ANCIENT POTTERY — LAMPS — KNIVES AND OTHER RELICS — ZION BRIDGE — ANCIENT CASTLE OF DAVID — GATES OF THE CITY — POOLS — FOUNTAINS — VALLEY OF JEHO- SHAPHAT — VILLAGE OF SILOAM — ANCIENT TOMBS AND VAULTS — VALLEY OF HINNOM — ACELDAMA, THE FIELD OF BLOOD PAGE 51 r '/y>\ if)' ^1 THE VALLEY OF JEHOSnAPHAT — OF HESTNOM — ACELDAMA — MOUNT OP OFFENCE — ANCIENT SEPULCHRES— SCOPUS niDGE — MOUNT OP OLIVES — THE ROAD OVER "WTIICn CHRIST RODE INTO JERUSALEM. » PAGE 75 CHAPTEK Y. CONCERNING THE TEMPLE OP KING SOLOMON. MOUNT MORIAH — THE TEMPLE AREA, OR ENCLOSURE — WILSON'S ARCH— ROBINSON'S ARCH — MASONIC HALL — FOUNDATION WALLS OP THE TEMPLE— SOUTH, WEST, AND EAST GATES — DOME OF THE ROCK — MOSQUE EL AKBA PAGE 87 CHAPTER YI. THE PRIVATE MARKS OP THE BUILDERS AND THE REMARK ABLE ANCIENT QUARRY UNDER JERUSALEM. MARKS FOUND ON STONES EN THE FOUNDATION WALLS OP THE TEMPLE AREA — MARKS FOUND IN SAMARIA AND HEBRON PAGE 117 i' If^ PLACES HISTOKICALLY COKTNECTED WITH SOLOMON'S TEMPLE AND THE BUILDERS. ANCIENT TYKE, HIRAM'S TOMB— MT. LEBANON— A SKETCH OP ITS HISTORY — ITS WONDERFUL TOPOGRAPHY— THE RENOWNED CEDARS — THE FOREST WHERE THEY WERE PROCURED FOR SOLOMON'S TEMPLE— HOW THEY WERE CONVEYED FROM THE MOUNTAINS TO THE SEA, AND MADE UP INTO FLOATS— THE SINGULAR INHABITANTS OP LEBANON; THEIR MANNERS AND CUSTOMS — THE AKALS, A SECRET ORDER, HAYING SIGNS, GRIPS, AND WORDS SIMILAR TO THOSE IN USE AMONG MASONS — PASS OP THE JORDAN— JOPP A— HEBRON, ITS IMPORTANT RELICS OP ANTIQUITY, AND SINGULAR MOSQUE— KING SOLOMON'S STORE CITIES, BAALBEK— TADMOE — HAMATH AND GEBAL — THE RUINS OP EEEROTH — KIRJATH JEARIM— SAMARIA, CHURCH OF ST. JOHN PAGE 141 CHAPTER YIII. THE CRADLE OP THE HUMAN RACE. ^ THE GARDEN OP EDEN— MOUNT ARARAT— THE DISPER- SION OP THE PEOPLE — THEIR LOCATION, OR THE PLACES OCCUPIED BY THEM — THE FIRST SETTLE- MENTS OP THE HUMAN FAMILY PAGE 258 CHAPTER IX. THE FIRST CITIES BUILT, THEIR RISE, FALL, AND RUINS, AS NOW SEEN. THE RUINS OP BABYLON — ERECH — ACCAD — CALNETH — NINEVEH — DAMASCUS — SHECHEM — GAZA— BEERSHEBA — BETHEL— BETHLEHEM— SIDON — JERICHO PAGE 263 ? 7)^ m m DESCRIPTION OF THE RUINS OP SHUSHAN, CITY OF QUEEN ESTHER, MORDECAI, AND HAMAN — DESCRIPTION OP THE RUINS OP ATHLEET, AND THE WILD ARAB TRIBE THAT INHABITS THE PLACE — DESCRIPTION OP THE HAURAN, LAND OP MYSTERY, ITS RUINS OP DESERTED CITIES AND VILLAGES — DESCRIPTION OP THE RUINS OP THE SPLENDID ANCIENT CITY OP PERGAMOS — OP GE- RASH — SHILOH — RABBAH — SARDIS — TARSUS — TIBERIAS — CESAREA — SOURCES OP THE JORDAN— CAPERNAUM — ANTIOCn— EPHESUS — GADARA — LYDDA — NAZARETH — ATHLEET PAGE 344 hYi-v \>Tf '> CHAPTER XL THE KNIGHTS TEMPLARS — ORIGIN OP THE ORDER — THE FATAL BATTLE OP HATTIN — MASSACRE OP THE KNIGHTS — DESCRIPTION OP THE REMARKABLE ANCIENT CITY OP KERAK, A STRONGHOLD OP THE KNIGHTS PAGE 400 CHAPTER XII. PYTHAGORAS — HIS BIRTHPLACE, EDUCATION, TRAVELS, PHILOSOPHY, GREAT INFLUENCE AND RENOWN, AND THE TRAGIC TERMINATION OP HIS CAREER PAGE 423 k m THREE OOtTRSBS OF STONES IN THE FOUNDATION WALLS OF THE TEMPLE ENCLOSUEE, WITH THE PEIVATB MAKKS ON THEM. INTEKIOK VIEW OF A GALLERY AT THE FOUNDATION OF THE WALL. EXPLOEEB EXAMINING MAKKS. rNTEEIOB VIEW OF THE ANCIENT QUAEEY UNDEE JERU- SALEM, IN WHICH THE STONES WEEE QUARRIED FOB THE TEMPLE. PILASTER IN MASONIC HALL. ANCIENT FIGURED PAVEMENT. MT. LEBANON AND THE BAT FROM WHICH THE TIMBBB WAS FLOATED FOR THE TEMPLE. THE Cmr OF JOPPA, WHERE THE TIMBER WAS LANDBUX THE CITY OF TYRE AS IT NOW IS. HIRAm's tomb near the CITY OF TYRE. hiram's well. KING Solomon's store cities — theib buins. BAALBEK. TADMOE. t KIEJATH JEABTM. hebeon. SAMARIA. BIDON. GEBAL. THE RUINS OF NINEVEH. THE RUINS OF BABYLON. THE RUINS OF SHUSHAN. DAMASCUS. ///' nXDSTKATIONS. XI EGYTIAN MYSTERIES — FIEST SCENE IN THE INITIATION OF A CANDIDATE THE TEST BY FIRE, WATER, AND AIR. SECOND SCENE IN THE INITIATION THE SACRIFICE. THIRD SCENE IN THE INITIATION THE TRIUMPHAL PRO- CESSION. THE BIRTHPLACE OF PYTHAGORAS — THE ISLAND OV SAMOS. THE RUINS OF RABBAH. THE RUINS OF EPHESUS. THE RUINS OF GADARA. EXCAVATIONS AT SHUSH AN. IMAGES. VALLEY OF MURDER, JERICHO. SUCCOTH. ST. John's church. THE PALACE AT SHUSHAN. ABDEL KADER. AN ACACIA TREE. ANCIENT POTTERY LAMP AND INB! BOTTLE SUCH A8 WAS USED BY THE SCRIBES. THE CASTLE OF DAVID. GETHSEMANE. ANCIENT COFFIN. GOLGOTHA. PLAN OF THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. PETHANY. SHECHEM. ^' tt^^f EPHRAIM. David's mosque and tomb. mount akarat. a group of captives. king solomon, from an ancient sculpture. collecting contributions foe rebuilding the TEMPLE. BATTLE-FIELD OF HATTIN. WAR-HORSES AFTER THE BATTLE. THE REMARKABLE RUINS OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF GERASH. THE RUINS OF ATHLETE. RUINS OF PERGAMOS. ANCIENT CITY IN THE HAURAN. ANCIENT KITCHEN AND UTENSILS. ANCIENT DRINKING CUPS. ANCIENT MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. RUINS OF THE GREAT FORTRESS OF KERAK — A FAMOUS STRONGHOLD OF THE CRUSADERS. SEVERAL ENGRAVINGS, GIVING VIEWS OF LEBANOM SCENERY — ITS INHABITANTS THEIR DWELLINGS, ETC, ^*^ IK"DEX TO THE PLAN OF JERUSALEM AND ITS RUINa Armenian Convent on Mt. Zion. Episcopal Church, and Consulate of St. James. David Tower. Hezekiah Pool, bmlt by Herod ; now used. Castle of David. Greek Convent. Coptic Convent. Latin Convent. Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Pilate's house (ancient citadel), now the Pasha's resi- dence. Bethesda Pool. St. Ann Church. Prussian Consulate — near the site of Herod's palace. Ruins of an ancient temple. Valley Gate, near the Jaffa Gate. Ancient gate, now closed (Bethezo was neax it), on Zion. Essenes' Gate, on Zion South, Tower of Siloam. East or Sun Gate. The Stairs of David — ^now in use. Intermediate Gate, between the two walls at the Junction of the Tyropoeon and Kidron Valleys. The House of David — it spanned the Tyropoeon Valley here. The Tower that lieth out over the Virgin Fountain. Water Gate ; on Ophel. The Great Tower— Tower of OpheL 14 INDEX TO THE PLAN. No. 26. Horse Gate, near the S. E. comer of the Temple. 27. Tower of the Flock (IVIicah iv., 8). 28. Sheep Gate — near the present St. Stephen's Gate. 29. Tower of Hananeel; N, K comer of the Temple Area. SO. Fish Gate — near the present St. Stephen's Gate. 31. Gate of Benjamin — North and East. 32. Cemetery. 33. Throne of the Governor. 34. Damascus Gate ; facing North. 35. Broad wall between Ephraim and the comer Gate. 36. Comer Gate — near the N. W. corner on the West. 37. Tower of Furnaces ; in the West end of the East and West wall. 3§, First Gate ; in the first wall, near Jaffa Gate. 39. The Armory, or House of the Forest of Lebanon, in tho N. E. comer of Zion. 40. Prison Gate ; Shallecketh, in the Temple. 41* Miphkad Gate ; the Stocks for detaining and punishing criminals were near this Gate, at the West end of the Tyropoeon bridge. 42. Second Gate in the Tyropoeon. 43. Tower of Hippicus ; the ruins are in the N. W. comer of the city waU, called the Giant's Tower. 44. Phasaelus — a Tower nanaed after Herod's brother, near the Gennath Gate. 45. Mariamne— named by Herod after his Queen ; on Zion. 46. Gennath (gardens) Gate — near the Jaffa Gate, in tht< third wall. 47. Psephinos ; an octagon tower. North of Hippicus. There were 90 towers in the third waU; no other names have been recorded. In other walls there were other gates, of which no ruins exist. 4§. Fort of Zion ; the Great Acropolis, so famed during the Syrian Wars. 49. Castle of Zion ; taken by David from the Jebusites. 50. Zion Bridge. 51. Citadel ; was high and overlooked the city. 62. Millo; at the Junction of the Zion and Tyropoeon Valleys. INDEX TO THE PLAN. 15 No. 53. Road over which Christ rode iato Jerusalem. 54. Golgotha. 55. Castle of Antonia; containing the Judgment HalL 56. Baris ; the Acropolis of Akra. 57. Strabo's Tower, near Antonia. 58. Illustration showing the form of the original hiU Mount Moriah. 59. Upper Pool of Gihon. 60. Jews' "Wailing-Place ; here are to be seen some of fcho foundation-stones of the Temple. 61. Garden of Gethsemane. 62. Church of the Ascension. 63. Entrance to the great underground quarry, where the stones were quarried and prepared for Kiug Solo- mon's Temple. 64. Village of Siloam. Besides these there are records of a great many palaces, market- places, and synagogues for instruction in the Scriptures and tra- ditions, of which there remains no vestige by which they can with certainty be identiiied. MOUNT MORLLH— SITE OF SOLOMON'S TEMPIxE. A, A, A, A, Temple Area. No. 1. Dome of the Rock; Ancient Christian Church: now a mosk. 2. Mosk el Aksa; the Ancient Knight Templar's Church. 3. Mogrebins Mosk. 4. The Sea of Solomon, underground. 5. Vaults under the platform. 6. Ancient South Gate of the Temple ; now Donble Gate 7. Ancient West Gate, now Prophet's Gate. H. Gate of the Chain. 9. Gate of the Bath. 10. Iron Gate. 11. Gate of the Inspector. 13. East or Golden Gate. ■'*, CHAPTER I. JERUSALEM. ITS ORIGIN, AND A SKETCH OF ITS HISTORY. OHgin — Assault and Capture of the City hy David — DavicVs Death — He is succeeded by Solomon^ who huilds the Magnificent Tenvple, arid the Store Cities — Siege of Jerusalem hy Titus, it is taken at Midnight — Wanton Destruction of the Temple hy Fire. The city of Jerusalem, witli its ruins of temples, towers, walls, and tombs, is one of the most pro- foundly impressive localities in all the world. While reflecting on the history of this city, wave on wave of thought rush in on the mind from out the limitless ocean of the past, and while contemplating its ruins the mind is carried far back through the dim vista of ages, to the time when Mt. Zion was the Jebusite's stronghold, and when the site of the magnificent Temple of Solomon was a threshing-floor. In all other holy places there were worshiped beasts and birds (Apis and Ibis, Egypt), the human form (Greece), and hideous images of things foimd neither in the heavens nor the earth (India). But here the shepherds of Canaan, who watched their flocks among the hills, bowed to Him who is still called the God of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob. In Genesis we I i read that in the beginning God created the heaven and the earth, and, as the great Architect of the Universe, he claims the exclusive worship of man. Since the day when the tent of the wilderness (the Tabernacle) was enlarged into the Temple, what various and thrilling events have made the temple site famous! There swiftly passes in review the foundation of that sacred and stately edifice, with its spacious courts and white marble walls, resplendent with fine gold; the magnificent rites and ceremo- nies, the solemn prayers and costly sacrifices, and the mysterious Holy of Holies, the Shekinah. Then follows the destruction of this sacred place by the idolaters from Babylon, and its restoration by Zerubbabel and Ezra, when some who had seen the first house wept, while others shouted for joy. And finally, Herod's Temple, larger and more magnificent than the others, which had been forty-six years in progress when Jesus spake in it of its final destruc- tion, which came with Titus and the Eomans ; and of all its precious and beautiful furniture and sacred vessels, there remains only a time-worn sculpture of the Candlestick and the crumbling Triumphal Arch of Titus at Rome. Besides these material things there is a long proces- sion of good men and women, kings, prophets, and priests, who frequented this place to worship, and held the same faith with us; whose lives are our example, and whose songs are our psalms and hymng of praise. The dark side of the picture is stained with frightful idolatries, de\alish wickedness, false- hoods, blasphemies, hypocrisies, and murders, even 'i^» J ^^0l \^s^4 '\^& 'US '^|y m 'S^j 1 ' XV^^ -^-^^^v^ 1^^^ 1 p,^^^ ^"^^yj" ' l^m \'JM^ 1 iffi 1 ;^p j;M '-%C^- '^^^ ! ;^^M ^S \^i^k ^^^1 i' y^ ij^^^ 1 i ^^0' I^M \I^M 1 \m 1 • mP^ if P iWI 1 ^^/r m\ lf'^/\\i \liU . ^f , m \ Uk^ in the midst of the most awful denmiciations against sin in every form. The view is also darkened by accounts of sieges, famines, destructions, captivities and dispersions, des- olations and wars unnumbered, with but a few rays of blessings in restorations. Uncounted millions for nearly two thousand years have directed towards this shrine their hopes and prayers. This eventful his- tory and its present condition lead to the inquiiy, will the Temple ever be rebuilt ? "Will Jerusalem ever be restored ? Will the twelve tribes ever be re- gathered ? — questions that can only be answered by the Great Director of human events. From Abraham to the present time a knowledge of the one true God has been the chief source of in- spiration, and there have been many great teachers who have instructed, counseled, warned, and thi-eat- ened the people ; always magmf)dng the service and the rewards of the true faith. Will there ever be another great teacher there ? OEIGIN. The name of this famous and sacred city suggests inquiry into its origin and history. The name, Jerusalem, is fii'st found in Joshua x. 1, 3, 5, 23. It is next called Jebus or Ha Jebusi, and its inhabitants Jebusites. The Greeks called it Hiero Solyma (Holy City of Solomon) ; but Jerusalem has been the common name since Solomon's time. The second son of Noah was Ham, who begat Canaan, whose descendents were the Jebusites, who dwelt in the hill country in which Jerusalem is situa- [:^^ I N^ Si I tod, and had their stronghold on Mount Zion, and, as there is no reliohle record or tradition of its oc- cupation by any other peo]3le previous to its occupa- tion by the Jebusites, the conclusion is very evident that the city was founded by them ; but there exists no data for determining the precise time. "And the Lord spake unto Moses, saying, Send thou men that they may search the land of Canaan, which I give unto the children of Israel — And Moses sent them to spy out the land of Ca- naan, and said unto them, Get you up this way south- ward, and go up into the mountain. " So they went up, and searched the land from the wilderness of Zin unto Kehob, as men come to Ha- math. And they returned from searching of the land after forty days. And they went and came to Moses, and to Aaron, and to all the congregation of the children of Israel, unto the wilderness of Paran, to Kadesh ; and brought back word unto them, and unto all the congregation, and shewed them the fruit of the land. And they told him, and said, We came unto the land whither thou sentest us, and surely it floweth with milk and honey ; and this is the fruit of it. The Amalekites dwell in the land of the south: and the Ilittites, and the Jebusites, and the Amorites, dwell in the mountains : and the Canaanites dwell by the sea, and by the coast of Jordan." (Numbers xiii. 1, 17, 21, 25, 26, 27, 29.) "And the border went up by the valley of the son of ninnom unto the south side of the Jehusite ; the same is Jerusalem : and the border went up to the top oi the mountain that lieth before the valley of Hinnom westward, which is at the end of the valley of the giants northward : And the border came down to the end of the moun tain that lieih before the valley of the son of Hinnom, and which is in the valley of the giants on the north, and descended to the valley of Hinnom, to the side of Jebusi on the south, and descended to En-rogel, And Zelah, Eleph, and Jebusi^ which is Jerusalem,^ Gibeath, and Kirjath; fourteen cities with their vil- lages. This is the inheritance of the children of Ben- jamin according to their families." (Joshua, xv. 8 — xviii. 16, 28.) HISTOET. The first recorded siege was by Judah and Simeon (about 1400 B.C.). Now after the death of Joshua it came to pass, that the children of Israel asked the Lorci, saying. Who shall go up for us against the Canaanitos first, to fight against them? And the Lord said, Judah shall go up: behold, 1 have dehvered the land into his hand. And Judah said unto Simeon his brother. Come up with me into my lot, that we may fight against the Canaanites ; and I likewise will go with thee into thy lot. So Simeon went with him. And Judah went up ; and the Lord delivered the Canaanites and the Pcrizzites into their hand : and they slew of tlicm in Bezek ten thousand men. Nov/ the children of Judah had fought ajrainst ?V^^ ,//: II! i^^» m 22 Jerusalem, and had taken it, and smitten it with the edge of the sword, and set the city on fire. (Judges, i. 1, 2, 3, 4, 8.) But they only took the lower city — the fortress of Zion and upper city being too strong for them. Following this was an attack by the Benjamites, but with no better success. These sieges and attacks were continued through the time when Israel was ruled by the judges, and the reign of Saul, and the reign of David at Hebron. But the Jebusites successfully resisted every attempt on the fortress of Zion, and thus remained practically masters of the city until about 1049 e.g., when David with an army of 280,000 men, choice warriors, the flower of Israel (1 Chron., xii. 23, 39), advanced to the siege, and with little trouble took the lower city, but, as before, the citadel on Zion held out until the Jebusites tauntingly said to him: "Except thou take away the lame and the blind thou shalt not come in hither " (2 Samuel, v. 6, Y, 8). Which roused David's anger, and he proclaimed to his host, that tlie first who would climb the rocky side of the fortress and kill a Jebusite should be made chief captain of the host ; upon which a crowd of warriors rushed forward to the attempt, but Joab's superior agility gained him the day, and the citadel — the fortress of Zion — was at last taken. The fall of this hitherto impregnable strong- hold created a great sensation throughout the length and breadth of the land. David at once proceeded to fortify and secure him self in his important acquisition by enclosing the city and citadel with a strong wall. The ark was brought i 23 from the house of Obed-Edom, (near Kirjath-Jearim,) and deposited here with the most impressive cere- monies, and the city then became the religious centre and political capital of the countiy. Previous to this the seat of government had been wherever the judges or rulers had their residence ; their place of residence and the ark constituting the capital and religious centre for the time being. These transient capitals were successively Gilgal, Shiloh, Shechem, Nob, and Gibeon. (Joshua, iv. 18, 19). David was succeeded by his son Solomon 1016 b. c, whose great works were the Temple with its east wall and cloister, the house of the forest of Lebanon, the walls of Jerusalem, with large towers thereon, the great cisterns or sea under the temple area, the throne, a palace for his Egyptian wife, 40,000 stalls for his horses, the garden, Baalath, Beth-horon, Gezer, Hazor, Megiddo, and Tadmor. The crowning glory of his reign and adornment of the holy city was the Tem- ple or House of Jehovah. The magnificence and mar- velous beauty of this edifice did not arise so much from its size as fi'om the whiteness of its walls, the style and finish of its many columns and pillars, and lavish use within and without of the gold of Ophir and Par- vaim. (See page 499) Through the whole time that this Temple was in building the tranquilHty of the city was not broken by the sound of the workman's ax or ham- mer, and the only dark shade to the picture is the fact of the practical reduction to bondage of the strangers in the land, the remnant of the Canaanite races ; one hundred and fifty-three thousand of whom were sent off to the forests of Lebanon and the quarries. Even "^ li p i i 1 i B; Bl 'pl' m^ the Israelites were compelled to take place by rota tion at the same labor. The addition of the splendid Temple, Palaces Walls, and Towers, to^ 1ft a *> ' :■ ■6i recoveied by the Greeks. 637 it was taken by Omar, the second of the Kalifs, and thus passed un- der Mohammedan rule. The Mosque of Omar on the Temple site was built by this Mohammedan Kalif. From this time Jerusalem continued under the Kalifs of Bagdad, till 868, when it was taken by Ahmed^ a Turkish sovereign of Egypt. From this till 1099 it was ruled alternately by Tui-k and Saracen. At this latter period it was taken by the crusaders under God- frey Bouillon, who was elected king. He was succeeded by his brother Baldwin, who died iu 1118. In 1187 Saladin, Sultan of the East, took the city. In 1242 it was restored to the Latin princes by Saleh Ismail, Emir of Damascus. In 1291 it was taken by the Sul- tans of Egypt, who held it until 1382. Selim, Sul- tan of Turkey, made conquest of Egypt, Syria and Jerusalem in 1517, and his son Solyman reconstructed the walls of the city, as now seen, in 1534. Since this time, with the exception of the 2 years it was held by Ibrahim Pasha of Egypt, and two years by the Fellahinj it has remained subject to Turkey. It is now included in the pashalic of Damascus, but with a resident Turkish governor. Altogether, Jerusalem presents a history unex- ampled in the number of its sieges and othoj* tragical events. It has greatly declined from its former size and splendor, and has now a population of only 20,000. i m Ik J: A k. '\ \ I liu^lw'li J ^ JTerusalem— Valley of tTeliosluxphat — Sinnom — TyropoRon — Walls — Gates — David /Street — T^ia Dolorosa — Mownt Zion. To render the situation and description of the points of interest intelligible to those who are not familiar with the subject, a slight sketch of the to- pography of the city and adjoining counti-y will be necessary. Jerusalem is situated on the summit of the ridge \vhich extends through Palestine from north to south ; the only approach to the city being by wild moun- tain roads. The spur or plateau on which the city is built has a general slant to the south-east, and its av- erage height above the Mediterranean is 2,475 feet. This plateau is of tertiary limestone, the upper beds of which are a hard, compact stone called by the Arabs " Mezzeh," while the lower consists of a soft white stone called " Melekeh." It was in this lattei that most of the ancient tombs and cisterns were cut. SrCN.i C^^-1/ 46 The city is nearly surrounded by two ravines or valleys : Jehosliaphat on the east, and Hinnom on the west and south. THE VAiLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT commences well around to the north of the city, and at first its course is nearly east for a mile and a half ; it then makes a sharp bend to the south, which course it follows to En Rogel, a deep well a short distance below the city. From this point it winds its way through the wild hilly country of Judea, twelve miles to the Dead Sea. Through this valley nins the brook Kedron. THE VAXLEY OF HESTNOM commences west of the city, and its course is at first, south-east to nearly opposite Jaffa gate, where it bends to the south, which course it follows to a short distance below the lower pool of Gihon ; at this point it makes a sharp bend to the east, and, passing the south end of the city, joins the valley of Jehoshaphat at En Hogel. Both of these valleys are at first very shallow, mere depressions in the ground, but after changing their courses, the Ilinnom to the east, and Jehosha- phat to the south, they fall and deepen more rap- idly, so that at En Eogel they are six hundi-ed and seventy feet lower than at their starting points. Between the valley of Ilinnom and Jehoshaphat there is another ravine. THE TTKOPCEON, VALLEY OF THE CHEESE-MONGEES, commences near the Damascus gate, and running nearly south, joins Jehoshaphat at Siloam. This ravine divides the plateau on which the citj' stands into two iniequal halves, the western spur being one hundred and twenty feet higher than the ejist- ern ; on the latter — Mount Moriah — once stood tlie temples of Solomon, Zerubbabel, and Herod. On the western was the upper city of Josephus, and here also stood the three great towers — llippicus, Phasfelus, and Mariamne. The sides of these valleys are now en- cumbered with much rubbish, still they are sufficiently steep to be difficult of access, so that in ancient times they must have afforded a strong natural defence for the south, west, and east sides of the city, and this it was which gave the Jebusites such assurance when they said to David, " Except thou take away the lame and the blind, thou shalt not come in hither/' The original city was built on Zion, and was sur- rounded by a strong wall, and as the city was enlarged a second wall was built; afterwards a third. Tiie city is not nearly as large now as at the time of Christ, being only about two and a half miles in circumfer- ence. The present wall is very strongly built, its thickness being fi-om twelve to fifteen feet, and its height varying from thirty to seventy feet, according to the inequalities of the surface of the ground. There are five gates now in use: t'^:ie Damascus gate on the north, St. Stephen gate on the east, the Sun and Dung gates on the south, and the Jaffa* gate on the west. There are also five ancient gates, now closed, viz. ; the Bab Azzahire on the north, the Golden gate on the east side of the Temple area, and the Single, Double,t and Triple gates on the south side. ^m ^ DAVTD STREET runs from Jaffa gate on the west to the Temple area on the east; Dolorosa runs from St. Stephen gate on the east to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. North and west of David street is the Christian quar- ter of the city; near the centre of this quarter, at the west end of Dolorosa, is the church of the Holy Sepulchre ; south of this is Zion, Zion gate, and the lejDers' huts. South of this is David's resting-place, or tomb of David. North of the Temple area is a hill which is doubtless the Bezetha of Josephus. It is now occupied by Moslem houses, a convent built by the CcBurs de Sion, and the British, Prussian, and Austrian consulates. MOUNT ZION. Mount Zion is in the south-western part of the city, [t is bounded on the west and south by the valley of * Ancient Joppa, now Jaffa gate. f The ancient South gate of the Temple. rt^: ,-K 7 A 1 49 Hinnom, and on the east by the Tyropoeon. From the valley of Hinnom the sides anciently rose up in steep rocky precipices, but the ruins from the many de structions of the city have been tumbled into these valleys so as to cover up, in many places, the precipi- ces, and entirely obliterate all traces of the original brow of the hill. This is especially the case with the Tyi-opoeon valley, wliich is now so filled with the ac- cumulations of ruins, that opposite to Mount Zion it has hardly the appearance of a valley; even on the top of the hill, where a few years since the English church was built, nearly fifty feet of rubbish was dug through before the original soil was reached. The southern brow of Zion is bold and prominent, and at the southwest corner of the city it is one hun- dred and fifty feet above the valley, and on the south three hundred. Upon this mount the original city was built. Here was the stronghold of the Jebusites, which was cap- tured by David, and here was the palace of the kings of Israel. But now how changed ! On ground once thickly covered with public edifices and dwellings, among mounds of ruins, large patches of barley and wheat may be seen growing. " Therefore shall Zion, for your sake, be ploughed as a field, and Jerusalem become heaps, and the mountain of the house as the high places of the forests." (Micah iii. 12.) Several valleys begin north and west of the city, and wind south and west to the sea, the larerest of which is Wady Beit Hanina, continued in Wady Sm-ar. The mountains round about Jerusalem higher than the city on every side ; so it is necessary to go ujp to the city from any direction. The names and localities of the several hills are plainly given on the engraving.* The walls of the modern city are indicated by the heavy black line. The more ancient walls are shown by dots and marks arranged and named on the engraving. In the Bible and Josephus there are given the names of the gates, towers, and notable edifices, the sites of which are laid down on the plan in accordance with the reports of the latest ordnanc3 purveys and explorations. * Jerusalem and its ruins— See first part of the Book. ^iM CHAPTEE III RELICS, OB.TECTS, AND PLACES OF INTEREST, Ancient Pottery — Lamjps — Knims and other Belies — Zion Bridge — Ancient Castle of David — Gates of the Citxj — Pools — Fountains — Valley of Je- Uoshajphat — Village of Stloam — Ancient Tombs aiid Vaults — Valley of Hinnom — Aceldama the Field of Blood. In tlie description of the Subterranean Quarry, a cut of a lamp is given,showing how the quarry was lighted while the men were at work. It will be interesting to notice some of the many foi-ms of lamps, with their singular marks and inscriptions, that have been found among the rubbish in the various excavations under Jerusalem, in cisterns or sewers, where they have been accidentally dropped, or in chambers where they were left when the rooms were abandoned. Nearly all of those found are broken, a few only being whole, which had been lost, perhaps. Many of the objects found in the rubbish were the work of Greeks or Romans, and may have been imported from Europe. But there are also specimens of Phoenician or Hebrew workmanship, especially the most ancient articles wliich were found in the deepest places, apparently w t^ ^^l f^ ;><:^ EOGEL. This is a large well, south of the Pool of Siloam at the jiinction of the two valleys, Jehoshaphat and Hinnom. It is 125 feet deep, and strongly walled with large stones. This wall terminates in an arch at the top, the whole hearing e^ndence of great antiquity. This well is still a place of great" resort, as the water is better than most of the water about the city. A large flat stone with a circular hole in the centre constitutes the mouth of the well. The water is still drawn, as in ancient times, in leathern buckets and earthen jars attached to ropes; deep creases are worn into the edge of the aperture through the cap- stone, where these ropes have for many centm-ies been drawn up. THE VERGIN FOimTAriSr. This fountain is a large, deep, artificial cavity in the hill-side, cut entirely in the solid rock. It is reached by a broad stone stairway of 26 steps. Tlie water is about 25 feet below the entrance on the liill-side, and some 10 or 15 feet below the bottom of the valley. The water is contained in a basin 15 feet long by from 5 to 6 broad, and 7 feet deep. The usnal depth of the water is about 3 feet, the bottom of the basin being covered with pebbles, an accumulation of dirt, and rubbish. It is said by some to get the name, " Fountain of the Virgin," fi'om the fact that these waters were considered a grand test for women accused of incontinence. If 1/ ¥ M \\bX Fountain, N. E. corner of Temple Area. ^^m^^m^M^ iimocent, they drank it without injury ; if guilty they immediately fell down dead ! Wlien the Virgin Mary was accused she submitted to the ordeal, and thus established her innocence. 73 NO. 4. THE HEZEKIAH POOL Is in the city, near the Jaffa Gate, and is 240 feet long by 144 feet wide. Its bottom is formed of the natural rock, levelled and cemented. This pool sup- plies several large baths with water. Near the Cotton Bazar is the Well of Healing, 85 feet deep, through rock. There are several cham- bers and passages connected with this well, whose uses are unknown. The Pool of Bethesda (Moat of Antonia) is 865 feet long, 131 wide, with a branch at the south-west corner 142 feet long and 45 wide. The north half of it is walled over by foundations for houses, and built upon. The Mekhemeh Pool is under ground near the "Wailing Place, and is 84 feet by 42, built against the Temple area wall, arched over but not now used. The Bath of Bathsheba was near the Jaffa Gate, north, is 120 feet long by 50 wide, and 20 deep ; — now filled up with rubbish. Helena's Cistern, near the Coptic Convent, is 60 feet long by 30 vtdde. and is supplied with good water the year round. CHAPTER IV. PLACES OF INTEREST NEAR THE CITY. The Valley of JehosJiaphat — of Hinnom — Aceldama — Mount of Offence — Ancient Sepulchres — Scopas, Ridge — Mount of Olives — The Road over which Christ rode into Jerusalein. THE VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT. Fkom the head of this valley, on the north of the city, to St. Stephen Gate, its fall is about one hundred feet, and its width at this point is nearly four hun- dred feet. Across the valley, a little below this, is the Garden of Gethsemane. A little lower down, the valley begins to deepen rapidly, the hills rising in steep precipices on both sides. Passing the Fountain of Siloam the valley again widens ; and here arc found pleasant gardens and cultivated terraces. A short distance from, and in strange contrast to these, are "Tophet and Black Gehenna, called the Type of Hell." Jehoshaphat might properly be called the VaPey of Sepulchres. On its west side, just under the wall of the Temple area, the Mohammedans have a cemetery, where thousands of their singular -look- ing tombs may be seen. On the opposite side of the ^alley is the Jewish cemetery, the great silent city of their dead. Here generation after generation, since the days of David and Solomon, have been gathered unto their fathers. For thousands of years the Jewish dead have been interred here ; the dust of the children mingling with the ashes of their fore- fathers, until a large portion of the east bank of the valley, and far uj) the side of the Mount of Olives is covered with the tombs of the countless descendants of Abraham : the dying Jew still craving it as one of the greatest privileges to be inten-ed here. For here they believe the coming Messiah will stand in the resurrection. In the bottom of this valley is the bed of the Brook Kedron, which is now dry for a considerable distance below the city, except in the rainy season. V>^ NO. 64. — VILLAGE OF SILOAM. The modern village of Siloam is nearly opposite the Fountain of the Virgin, on the eastern bank of the Valley of Jehoshaphat. The steep declivity on which it stands is covered with ancient tombs. It is a wretched place, containing about seventy dwellings, formed by dispossessing the dead of their tombs, M^alling up the fronts, and transforming them into abodes for the living. Their interiors present a gloomy and filthy appearance; human bones still remaining in many of them. The appearance of the inhabitants is in keeping with their miserable dwell- ings ; and their reputation for rudeness and lawless- Jk. w » 8 « A or fM- s^c 79 ness is such, that the prudent traveler gives the place a wide birth after nightfall. ANCIENT TOMBS. Just above this village in the side of the hill are many tombs and vaults. Among them are those of Zacheas, Absalom, and the cave of St. James. The tomb of Zacheas is cut in the rock, and there was in front of it four Doric columns supporting a cornice and a pyramidal roof (18 feet high over all). The cave of St. James is ornamented with a portico in front, havino; four columns cut from the native rock. Tradition says that James, the brother of Jesus, retired to this cave after the Crucifixion. The tomb of Absalom is the most noted of these valley tombs, and is also cut from the solid rock. The dome on the roof is peculiar, terminating in a foliated tuft. The Mohammedans have idealized this into a monument of the hateful ingratitude of Absa- lom, whose example is held up as a fearful warning to all disobedient sons ; therefore every passer-by is supposed to cast a stone at it with appropriate mal- edictions. Tlie whole vicinity is occupied by graves which are covered with flat stones inscribed in Hebrew or Ara- bic. THE VALLEY OF HINNOM. Opposite Jaffa Gate this valley is about one hun- di-ed yards wide, and forty-four feet deep. From this point its course is first south, then east around ii Zion, past the south end of the city to its junction with the valley of Jehoshaphat. Above the lower pool of Gihou it falls gradually, but at a short distance below this pool it commences to deepen rapidly, and continues to fall until it reaches En Eogel. A short distance above this, it is a deep, gloomy dell. In many places the bottom of this valley is covered with loose stones, yet it is cultivated, and portions of it abound with olive-trees. Along the south side of the, valley is a steep, rocky ledge, nearly the whole surface of which is covered and penetrated by tombs. These tombs are of many shapes and different sizes, some small and plainly constructed, while others are very large, and penetrate far into the hillside. In the upper part of the valley there is a large rock, a part of which has been leveled and made as smooth as a house-floor. This was an ancient threshing-floor, Buch as Araunah the Jebusite had on Mount Moriali. ACELDAMA. THE FIELD OF BLOOD. This place is just across the valley of Ilinnom, near its junction with Jehoshaphat. It is a rocky cliff, full of tombs ; portions of the front of Aceldama have been walled up, and behind this are deep excavations and gloomy sepulchral passages. In some places large quantities of human bones and skulls are seen scat- tered about in pi'omiscuous confusion. This is the field which was purchased with the thirty pieces of silver received by Judas for the betrayal of Christ. " Then Judas, which had betrayed him, when he saw that he was condemned, repented himself, and brought again the thirty pieces of silver to the chief i^g^MMrfet?^ priests and elders, saying, I have sinned, in that I have betrayed the innocent blood. And they saidj AVhat is that to us? See thon to tliat. And he cast down the pieces of silver in the temple, and went and hanged himself. And the chief priests took the sil- ver pieces, and said, It is not lawful for to put them into the treasury, because it is the price of blood. And they took counsel, and bought with them the potter's field, to bury strangers in " (St. Matthew xxvii.). MOUNT OF OFFENCE. This mount or hill is across the valley of Jehosha- phat to the eastward of the pool of Siloam. " He built an high place for Chemosh, the abomination of Moab, in the hill that is before Jerusalem, and for Moloch, tlie abomination of the children of Ammon, and like- wise did he for all his strange wives, which burned incense and sacrificed unto their gods" (1 Kings xi.). A short distance below this, in the valley, was Tophet. Under the apostate kings of Judah this portion of the valley became the seat of the most horrible idolatrous services. Here "Moloch, horrid king, besmeared with the blood of human sacrifices and parents' tears," had his o-roves and altars. SCOPAS. At a short distance north of the city is the high ridge of Scopas. As there are none of the ravines on this side which form the natural defences of the other sides of the city, this side was usually the point from which it was attacked by its enemies. The camp of Titus was on this ridge, and from this point A*, ui f m M he commenced the sici:;e which ended in such destruc tion and ruin to the city. TUE MOUNT OF OLIVES CALLED BY THE ARABS JEBEl ET TUE. This mount lies east of the city, and is separated from it by the valley of Jelioshaphat. Its height above the valley varies from 500 to 680 feet. It ia 250 feet above the Temple area on Mount Moriali, BO that it commands a fine view of many points of interest ; first, Jehoshaphat, Gethsemane, and the Kidron ; then, beyond these, the ancient walls, domes, and minarets of the city. Far away to tlie south, from among a group of smaller hills, rises Bethliace- rem, where Herod had his paradise, and wliere liis bones are supposed to be interred. To the eastward is the hill country of Judea, with the wilderness, gloomy and sterile; a rough mountainous region, whose deep yawning chasms form secure hiding- places for Bedouin robbers and beasts of prey. Olivet was once very fertile, and was covered with beautiful gardens and olive orchards ; but, with the exception of small portions of the eastern side, tlie soil has long since been exhausted, so that only a few olive and fig trees are to be seen, and no signs of cultiva- tion, except an occasional patch of barley inclosed by a tottering stone wall. rnE ROAD OVER WHICH CHRIST RODE INTO JERUSALEM. On the Engv. will be seen the road to Bethany, winding around the southern base of the Mount of Olives. It was over this road that Christ rode into ^ m V' ir W Jerusalem. " And it came to pass that when he was come nigh to Bethphage and Bethany,* at the mount called the Mount of Ohves, he sent two of his disci- ples, saying. Go ye into the village over againstyoi*/ in the which at your entering ye shall find a colt tied, whereon yet never man sat : loose him, and bring Idin hither. And they brought him to Jesus : and they cast their garments upon the colt, and they set Jesus thereon, and as he went they spread their clothes in the way" (St. Luke xix. 29, 30, 35, 36). * These villages axe on the eastern side of the Mount of Olives. A CONCERNING THE TEMPLE OF KING SOLOMON. Mount Moriah — The Temjple Area, or Enclosure— Wilson^ Arch — RoUnson^s Arch— Masonic Ilall — Foundation Walls of the Temjple — South, West, and East Gates— Dome of the Boch— Mosque El Aksa—The great Subterranean Quarry. MOUNT MOEIAH. This spur or plateau is between the valley of Je- hosliaphat on the east, and the Tyropoeon valley on the west, and is just within the walls of the city on the east. Its hight at the Dome of the Kock above the valley of Jehoshaphat is 140 feet, and above the Mediterranean, 2,436. By reference to No. 58 on the engv. an idea of its original appearance may be formed. To the Christian world, this is a spot of great in- terest, for here once stood the magnificent Temple of Kino- Solomon, which was dedicated to the worship of tlie Most High, and was the favored house of God. In it was the Holy of Holies, and it was the repository of the Ark of the Covenant. ^m IL .i«. I If •-vf^ 5ci w m 88 To Masons this is also a place of great importance and interest, as the Temple was erected by the ancient craftsmen, of whom King Solomon and the two Hi- rams were the first Grand Masters. The foundation of King Solomon's Temple was laid 1012 B.C. (a. m. 2992), in the month of May (Zif). The history of this great edifice introduces tlie three M'orthies, Solomon, King of Israel; Hiram, King of Tyi-e ; and Hiram the builder (Abif ), who formed a society for mutual assistance in counsel^ skill, and wisdom, that they might the better con- trive and execute the designs for the various grand structures proposed by Solomon, including of necessity the management of the large number of mechanics, artisans, overseers, and laborers required to carry on all those enterprises. The peculiar wisdom of these measures will be seen when it is stated that Solomon, at the time of his coronation as king, was but 19 years old. The writings of Josephus confirm the Scripture accomit of the friendly relations between Solomon and Hiram, King of Tyre, and also between David and Hiram. Tliey exchanged presents, and, accord- ing to oriental custom, propounded problems and difficult questions one to the other (see 2 Chron. ix.). The correspondence between the two kings on the building of the Temple was preserved among the Tyrian archives in the days of Josephus (Ant. viii. 2, 8), who gives copies of the letters. Eupolemon also mentions the letters and gives copies of those between Solomon and Hiram, also between Solomon and Apries (see Eusebius, Prae. Evang., ix. 30). Mi \m\ ^- Tlie long peace between the two nations, the Jews and the Phoenicians, which was never really broken by either side, can be safely referred to the inilneuce of the secret and mysterious tie which bound the principal persons of both people into a common brotherhood. Moses was initiated into the mysteries of the Sacked Oeder of Priests in Eg>"]3t before he was permitted to marry a daughter of a priest. He afterwards transmitted those mysteries to the Jewish people. Joshua continued them • and Solomon, associated with the two Ilirams, adapted the whole system, to the laios and customs of the jpeojple of Palestine* Phoenician historians give an account of a mar- riage between Solomon and a daughter of Hiram, Iving of Tyre. (See Tatian. Grnec. § 37.) Jewish writers pass lightly over the fact that Iliram the Iving was not circumcised, and have a tradition that because he was a God-fearing man, and assisted in building the Temple, he was translated alive into Paradise. Of Iliram Abif it is i-ecorded that he was of a mixed race, Jewish and Phoenician, of the tribe of Naphtali. His father — from whqm he inherited his eminent abilities, and learned the details of his call ing — was a Tyrian, skilled in the arts of working metals, wood, and cloth, for ornamentation in architec- ture, also articles for public and private luxury and display. Hiram was appointed chief architect and engineer by Hiram, King of Tyre, and sent to Jeru- salem to assist Solomon. His title of Abif (our father) was given as a recognition of his dignity and * See Egyptian Mysteries, page 431. W>t acquirements, and his exalted and useful position, which he adorned by faithful and excellent service. The title was given after an ancient oriental custom — many instances of its observance being famihar to readers of history, as that of Joseph in Egypt, who says, " God hath made me a father to Pharaoh " (Gen. xlv. 8) ; and also in Maccabees (1 xi, 32), the term is used as a mark of respect and esteem, and nearly all Roman coins have among other titles that of "father," as given to the emperor. "We have preserved but few details of the life of Iliram, King of Tyre. That he was master and over- seer of his people who were in the service of Solomon is recorded, and he was long remembered as such. A complete description of the Temple of Solomon is given in Kings, Chronicles, Ezekiel, and Jeremiah. The two pillars, jAcnnsr and Boaz, are minutely de- scribed in Kings and Jeremiah ; Ezekiel also men- tions two pillars — one on each side of the entrance. Josephus writes about the great stones and of the foundation wall with understanding, because he saw them (as well as Herod's Temple, which was an en- largement of Zerubbabel's), and within a few years past the Palestine Exploration Society ha? verified many of his accounts. The great stones which were* sawed with saws (1 Kings vii. 9) lie just where they were placed by the builders, still bearing their craft-marks or direc- tions for placing them. The lower courses w^ere pro- tected from wear and the action of the elements, by the dirt, mingled with stones, chips, etc., which wag piled against them, and has never been disturbed un- V Or T^ ^:, 1 lit til recently. The soil above this layer was full of pot tery, glass, etc., the usual evidences of occupation and use. Some of these stones are 6 feet or more thick; and 15 to 30 long. Their peculiar faces are shown on the plan — No. 58. TEMPLE AEEA OE ENCLOSURE, MARKED A A A A ON THE PLAN. The Temple area is 1,500 feet long, by an average width of 950 ; not regular, but as shown on the plan. The walls enclosing it are from 8 to 10 feet thick at the base, and 3 to 4 at the top, and 50 to 75 high abov^e the present surface outside ; and 10 or 12 feet above the floor. The ground is highest at the N.W. corner, and slopes south and east. The original hill (see No. 58) was very uneven and sloping, nowhere having a level place large enough for the proposed temple ; it was therefore necessary to build up a large platform, which was done by piers or columns arched over and filled in at the top with stone and earth. (Ant., XY., xi. 3.) These substructures are still in their original posi tion, and are veiy minutely described by Dr. Barclay (City of the Great King), who measured them care- fully, when employed as an assistant to the Chief Engineer of Repairs by the Pasha of Jerusalem. They extend across the southern end of the Temple area, being the highest at the s. e. corner, and from north to south from 1S6 to 217 feet. The piers vary in size from 3 to 8 feet square, a,' A' i I f i\ w 11 ■Si ')ik31 and in higlit from 30 down to 2 or 3 feet, as tlie rock slopes. The Triple Gate (51 feet wide and 25 feet high) once opened into these galleries, which ^ f'^iiy^^^'^^'^'^^' I'i/ife^ I Piers aud Vaults. — Foundations of the Temple. are called Solomon's stables ; there are three passages leading from them up to the area above, one of whicli is 247 feet long, the others shorter. It is supposed that this was the passage for the animals for the sac- rifices, because the ascent is gradual all the way. A«l ^m \h %] ■'''fi //iVi Wi mil m mm. m Tliere is a small doorway with a pointed arch 1 05 Coot from the S.E. comer of the south wall, which was the stable-door leading into the splendid colon- nade. These vaults are mentioned by El. Alemi, in 1495. THE ANCrENT GATES OF THE TEMPLE ENCLOSUEE. No. 6. — The ancient South Gate, now Double Gate, alluded to by Josephus (Ant., XY. xi. 5), has all the marks of Jewish architecture, with an addition of Ro- man work outside. Originally the doors were 18 feet wide and 20 high. In the inside there is an entrance hall 50 feet long and 40 wide, having in the centre a column 21 feet high and 6 feet in diameter, of a single block of limestone. Its capital is ornamented with large leaves, finely sculptured in stone, but not in any architectural order ; and resting on this capital are the springs of four arches, which support four domeg forminof the ceilinsj of tlie room. It has been Ro- manized by four white marble columns which adorn the doorway. The sides of the hall are built of huge blocks of limestone, cut with the peculiar Jewish panel ; the term bevelling is applied to the Jewisli rebatement, which is a chamiel cut a half -inch, less or more, deep all around the edge of a block on the same level plane as the face, and never slanted or bevelled. Fj-om this entrance hall a flight of nine stone-steps (in the midst of wliich stands a stone pillar oval, 6 feet high by 4 feet in diameter) leads up to a pas- sage 259 feet long, which is divided by piers, pillars^ m %s m w u m ml ^n: and a wall ; is vaulted over each half the entire length and bears every mark of Jewish make. Another flight of stone steps leads to the area above. This is the ancient South Gate of the Teisiple. ISTo. 7. — On the west side of the Temple area is an ancient doorway walled up, built against by modern houses and nearly all hidden ; only half of the lintel being in view. It was 40 feet wide and 40 deep. The lintel is 6 feet 9 inches thick. A flight of steps in- side formed an approach to the area above, as at Huldah Gate. On the inside may be seen a closed gateway, so covered up with modern rooms as to be almost hidden. Some of the stones are very large — 15 to 25 feet long and 8 or 9 feet deep. This was the West Gate of the Temple. No. 12. — The ancient entrance to the Temple En- closure on the east is now walled up and kept closed by the Mohammedans, because of a superstitious fear that the Christians will enter by this gate and drive them out. The length is 70 feet and breadth 55, and it pro- jects 6 feet beyond the wall ; two colmnns divide it into a double arcade lighted at the west end by two domes. The columns are formed out of single blocks -of marble, and the walls are eleven feet thick. The style is ancient, and its interior is ornamented -with rich and elaborate carvings in the Grecian style. The effect of the whole is grand and imposing. A grand stairway of massive stone blocks leads from the gate up to the platform, which is 25 feet above. This was the East Gate, called by the Crusa- ders the Golden Gate (Porta Aurea). Josephue 18 silent about gates on the north, but the Jewish Mid- doth (Book of Measures) says the north wall was neai-er to the Temple and had but one gate, called Tedi. The same authority says it was a small gate and for a special purpose. There is a flight of stone steps in front of the Golden Gate, now buried under rubbish and soil, the deposit of centuries since the Crusades. The wi-iters of that age speak of many steps " that lead down to tlie valley." The whole of the space outside of the wall in the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and especially on the east of the Temple site, is used as a cemetery, and every available foot of soil has been occupied over and over many times, and always guarded with super- stitious fidelity against all " infidel " intrusion. It is therefore only possible to examine the locality by underground passages. A Mohammedan, in a.d. 1150, describes the chief buildings very much as they are now ; and also that the Door of Mercy (Golden Gate) was closed, but passage was had through the small one, El Asbat (the tribes), a bow-shot from which was a large and beautiful church, dedicated to St. Mary and called Gethsemane. NO. 1, TEMPLE AREA. THE DOME OF THE ROCK — MOSQUE OF OMAE. This splendid edifice stands nearly in the centre of the Temple area (see engv.*). It is eight-sided 170 feet in diameter, and about the same height, cov- ered outside with beautifully colored porcelain tiles ; tlie roof and dome are covered with copper ; the dome is very symmetrical and graceful, and is tipped with * Engraving. a lofty bronzed crescent. The lower part of the octago- nal sides is covered with marble of various colors and patterns. On entering, the visitor is at once impressed with its exquisite proportions, the simplicity of the de- sign, and admirable finish. The 16 stained glass windows of the circular upper building are pecuhar in richness^ harmony of color, and elegance of design. The lower octagon has 56 windows, over each one of which are sculptured sen- tences fi'om the Koran in letters which are measm-ed by feet in height. There is a harmony of color every- ^^here,— in the wmdows of stained glass, the colored marble pillars and walls, porphyry columns, gilded capitals, and rosettes of the ceiling; the rich canopy of crimson and green silk over the rock in the centre; on every side masses, and groups, and points of blue, red, purple, yellow, gold, and crimson, intensi- fied by the rays of the sun, or mellowed by the gloom, which carries the beholder in imagination back to the days of the Magnificent Caliphs, whose works have been the wonder and delight of ages, both in romance and reality. The central dome is ^^ feet in diameter. Oc- cuppng the centre of this rotunda is the BACEED KOCK. This rock is about 60 feet long from north to south, and about 50 broad ; it rises several feet above the floor of the Mosque, and is surrounded by a gilded iron fence, seven feet high and very strongly built, while over it is stretched a rich a%vning of parti- colored silk. What sacred and interesting associations >^^ ■^ ill cluster around this spot ! for the Kabbins say tbat thia is the identical rock on which Jacob pillowed his head during that eventful dream ; on which Abraham offei-ed Isaac, and where Da^-id saw the Angel, and wliere Jesus was laid after the crucifixion ; — the rock that afterwards became the altar of burnt-offering for the great Temple of Solomon, It is hollowed into a liandsome chamber, fifteen feet square by eight feet high, called the Noble Cave. An ornamented floor (tessellated) covers a passage into some unkno^vn excavations below, but the superstitious fears of the Moslems prevents any examination, for they say that here is the well of souls, the real opening into Hades ! The most ancient account of tliis structure is that it was built by Constantine the Great and his mother Helena. A pilgrim of the 12th century copies some inscriptions widtten by the Christians on the places where there are now Arabic sentences from the Komn, which were doubtless placed over the first by Saladin. The building stands on an artificial platform about 15 feet high, which is reached by eight gateways (wdth stone steps) in elegant Saracen style. The Mohammedan believes that in tliis dome, next to Mecca, prayers are most acceptable to God, above aU other places in the world. NO. 2. THE MOSQUE EL AKSA. This Mosque stands near the south-west comer of tlie Temple area (see engv), and is a showy and elegant building, 2S0 feet long and 1S3 broad, with a dome nearly as large and higli as the Dome of the Rock. It was originally in the form of a cross, bu from additions by the Crusaders it is now a parallel- ogram. It has been altered and remodelled so many times that it cannot now be said to belong to any particular style of architecture, unless it is the Composite. Some interesting coincidences in the style, &c., to the Temple of Solomon, are found in an Egyptian Temple at Edfoo, in Egypt. There is a porch with an entrance between two pillars, leading to a court wliich is surrounded with pillars ; and winding stairs (by square, not spiral, steps), leading to a middle chamber, from which the sanctuary was reached, and only by the initiated (see 1 Kings vi. 8). Near the Mosque El Aksa is the Mogrebins Mosque — No. 3. Under the southwest corner of the Temple area, beneath a part of the Aksa Mosque, there are immense cisterns, one of which is, no doubt, the sea mentioned by the son of Sirach, and the Commissioner of Ptolemy. This body of water is 736 feet in circum- ference, and 42 feet deep. — No. 4. The roof is supported by rude stone pillars, which were once cased with metal, but are now bare or plastered. Its capacity is about two million gallons. Eight openings for drawing up water were formerly in use, but now only one is open. It ma,y be entered from above by a flight of 44 wide stone steps, cut in the rock. The aqueduct from Solomon's pool ended in this great subterranean reservoir. f^ Ancient Artificial Cave under the Temple Area — Noble Cave. King Solomon's 6iH*eriia. '"'fVER 8 fry i ¥M: 103 WILSON S ARCH. This arch was discovered in 1SG6 by Capt. Wilson, R.E., when making explorations in the city for a better water snpply. From the discovery of this arch originated the idea of a scientific exploration in and about the Temple area, which was developed in the Palesthie Exploration Fund and Society, whose ex- plorations have been carried on under the direction of Capt. Warren, R.E., who has discovered the founda- tion walls of the Temple enclosure in many places, together with arches, vaults, and secret passages con- nected therewith, outside and inside of the Temple area, Wilson's Arch is just outside of the gate of the chain under the street called David, and 15 feet be- low the present surface of the ground. This arch has a span of 42 feet, and is 43 feet wide. Portions of it are in ruins, and the walls are much decayed. At 3i feet below the springing of the arch, a bed of hard concrete is found formed of small cubical stones set in a dark cement. At 24 feet, voussoirs and drafted stones of a fallen arch and well, are found, the stones being similar to those in the Sanctuary Wall.* At 40 feet water is found, which appears to run in at the northern end of the shaft, and run out at the southern end. At 51 feet 9 inches, the bottom course of the foundation wall of thfe Temple enclosure is seen resting in a groove which was cut in the rock f for the better security of the wall. * Wall of the Temple Enclosure. ■{• Nearly the whole siu-f ace of Moriah is a limestone rock. 7/M W Iitx\ The whole of the wall exposed here is evidently in its original position, and consists of 21 courses of drafted stones, averaging from 3 feet 8 inches to 4 feet in hight, the wall now being 75 feet above the rock. The corbels on the haunches of the north side of the arch appear to have supported a balcony — the continuation of a secret passage, which entered the Sanctuary Wall just south of Wilson's Arch. Wlien this wall was first built, it was exposed to view from its foundation upwards. It is one of the oldest por- tions of the enclosure of the Sanctuary now remain- ing, and is held in great veneration by the Jews, as they claim this to be the Wall of the Sanctuary. Connected with Wilson's Arch there has recently been discovered by Capt. Warren, a large number of vaults, arches, and secret passages leading in various directions, but, wdth the exception of Wilson's Arch, probably none of them have ever been exposed to view, as they were undoubtedly used as secret stores for j)rovisions and water in the time of sieges. MASONIC HALL. In one of the passages from Wilson's Arch leading west,is an opening that leads down into an ancient vault or chamber, which from tradition has ac(][uired the name of Masonic Hall. The entrance opens down to it from the north, and the passage is steep and shelving, and at first the explorer could only gain access by being lowered into it by means of a rope, but the aperture has been enlarged so that a laddej- is tiow used. This chamber is 30 feet 8 inches in length l^y 23 feet in width, rectangular and \ aulted ; ^fc"''1l""'''i"ir''i'ri| i'l'fi,; ilTpriiiiBifV^ lor the walls are built of square stones, well jointed, and laid without cement. There were pilasters at each corner, but only the one at the north-east angle re- mains in a moderate state of preservation (see cut) Nearly in the centre of the chamber is a part of a column or pedestal sticking up. At the south-east angle was a double entrance with lintels over it: these have ornaments on them and on the jambs, but they cannot now be accurately traced. This Hall has every appearance of being one of the most an- cient pieces of masonry in Jerusalem. Through a small hole in the south wall of this chamber, a passage is found leading into one of the Saracenic vaults sup- porting the Hall of Justice. There is still another passage leading from this vault south into another, which is now filled with debris and earth. A short distance from Masonic Hall is a secret passage lead- ing under David Street ; this passage is about 12 feet wide and is nearly filled with rubbish; it has been traced 250 feet in the direction of the Joppa Giite, which was doul)tlcss its ancient termination. ''Oi*i..'»l(lP5ii!iJi.>»,j, ,, ."tlX^,., . ^.'1 ^S^^^SS EOBINSON S AKCH. This arch is outside of the south-west corner of the Sanctuary Wall, opposite the Mogrebin's Mosque (see Temple Area), and is considered to have been the entrance to the royal cloisters of King Ilerod. Sev- enty-four feet below the springing of this arch is a rock-cut canal, 4 feet wide, and 12 feet deep, running south. Jammed in over this canal are two fallen voussoii's of an arch. One of these is much de- cayed, but the other is in a better state of preser- vation, and measures 7 feet in length, 5 feet thick at the extrados, 4 feet 4 inches at the intrados, and 4 feet high. In the middle of one side is a square joggle hole 14 inches by 11 and 4|^ inches deep. Opening out of this canal to the south, is a chamber cut in rock, with a segment arch. To the south a passage leads into a circular cistern cut in the rock, 16 feet in diameter, by 14 feet 4 inches in hiffht. In the centre of the roof is a manhole lead- ing down from the roof of the pavement under Robinson's Arch. Near this are two curious rock-cut chambers, rectangular, and measuring 16 feet by 6 feet. In one of them is a flight of steps leading up above. Also, a base of a column which had fallen in through the roof. Several lamps, weights, jars, and an iron bar were found in this canal ; also an ancient Btone roller for rolling flat roofs on houses, precisely like the rollers now used for the same purpose. Several excavations have been made in the vicinity of Robinson's Arch, in making one of which at a VA \ \. ^6\ ^^ % depth of 21 feet 6 inches, a polished limestone slab 6 feet scpiare was found covering the main sewer of the city. This sewer is 6 feet high by 3 feet wide, cut in the rock, nearly full of sewage, through which a current of water runs south. This is doubtless the sewer through which the fellahin entered the city, in the time of Ibrahim Pacha ;they aj^pear to have pen- etrated up as far as David Street and found exit through some of the vaults there. In sinking a shaft near this the remains of a colonnade were found just below the surface, consisting of piers built on the rock 12 feet 6 inches apart, with fallen arches be- tween. These piers wore built of well-dressed ashlar of soft sand-stone, similar to the ruins of Suwaineh in the Jordan Valley. In sinking another shaft the debris of a stone build- ing, and part of a white marble column twelve inches in diameter, were found. Twenty-two feet below this is a chamber cut in the rock, ten feet square, and ten feet high, covered with plaster two inches thick and very hard. Entrance to this cham- ber was effected through two manholes through the roof, and it has the appearance of having been used as a secret store for grain. Twenty feet to the south of the Gate of the Bath is a large cistern, which runs east and west and piei'ces the Sanctuary "Wall. Near the Effendi'a house is another cistern or rather prolongation of the first, but narrower. At this place it is thirty-foui feet six inches from the surface of the ground to the bottom, width twelve feet, and length from east to west fourteen feet nine inches. A surface of twenty I \|5fc(^# '^« eight feet in Light by twelve in length of tlie Sanctuary Wall is exposed at this place. From an excavation made near the Sanctuary "Wall on the east side of the Temple enclosure, a small passage was found which leads downwards, passing through the roof of, and into another passage, which runs east and west. This latter passage is three feet nine inches high by two feet wide, running nearly horizontal, and at its eastern end opens through the Wall of the Sanctuary, and is closed by a large stone having three cylindrical holes through it five and one- half inches in diameter each, tkrough which water at some former period ran. It is probable that troops defending this part of the wall came down here for water. \mi THE TOWER OF ANTONIA. This tower was at the north-east angle of the Temple enclosure, and was built up from the Sanctuary Wall ; the outside was formed by that portion of the wall con- tinuing to recede from four to seven inches, while that forming the tower recedes only one and one- quai'ter inches, so that at twenty-two feet from where the tower begins the slant inwards is two feet, and at the surface, forty feet above, the slant amounts to seven feet. DISCOVEEY AT ST. STEPHEN S GATE. An excavation was made outside of this gate. Wlien at a depth of six feet a flat stone was found, which, sounding hollow, an aperture was made through it, when a' circular cave was exposed to view that UNIVF. \. S' iK^ I ' m m j^,^>N ! 'S was found to be nine feet in diameter and four feet high ; it is divided into five loculi by plaster partitions about thi-ee inches thick and twelve inches high, and had been used as a tomb. A shaft leads down from this into another chamber twenty-six feet long by six feet wide, which is divided latitudinally into ten loculi. Another passage leads into two other and similar cliambei-Sjalso divided into loculi. A shaft forty feet deep leads from this down into another range of these singular chambers, nine in number, one of which has the appearance of having been used as an ante-room, the rest were divided into loculi. These chambei-s were cut in a very soft kind of melekeh and are nearly on a plan with the Phoeni- cian tombs at Saida, as they are systematically arran- ged tier upon tier with shafts leading down through them. In making these excavations ancient pottery and glass vases were found at various depths. EUmS AT DAMASCUS GATE. One of the most interesting relics of antiquity is found in an ancient tower at the Damascus gate. This structure is very massive, and bears the peculiar Jewish marks similar to the Temple area walls. The lower courses of the city wall, for some distance on each side of the gate, bear the same character of large blocks, beveled edge, with the whole surface hewn SKioothj exhibiting an earlier and more careful style than most other walls here. In the tower on the east side of the gate there is a flight of winding stairs of square steps, with square turnings — not spiral — meas- uring 7 feet long by 3 wide. This was the kind oi stairway leading to the middle chamber in the Tern pie porch (1 Kings vi. 8). WAILING PLACE OF THE JEWS. — No, 60. A short distance below David Street, in the foim- dation-wall of the Temple enclosure, are several courses of large stones, bearing the Jewish bevel, and other marks of great antiquity. They were doubtless placed here by Solomon's buildei*s when the foundation of the Temple was laid. These are the Stones of Wailing, and this is the nearest that the Jews are now permitted to come to their ancient place of worship and sacrifice. This place is resorted to at all times by the devout, but Friday afternoon is the set time for Jews to meet here to mourn and weep for their departed power, the glory of their ancient city, and the hallowed and glorious associations of the Temple. And thus they may be seen. Old men with white flowing beards, young men in the vigor of manhood, aged women, and rosy-cheeked girls ; some sitting, some standing, some leaning their heads affectionately against these ancient time-worn stones, frequently giving vent to their grief in loud weeping and wailing. Second only in interest to the Temple Area are the ruins of the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem. This building was erected by the Knight Templars, (Hospitallers) of Jerusalem, in the time of the Crusades, and its magnificence may be gathered from accounts of it by ancient writers, and fi'om ruins of it still standing, with remains of quaint carvings, and traces of colors. The style seems to have been that of an mk ///A r i ii Oriental Khan, being a vast qnadrangular structure ai'ound an interior court, the chambers opening on the galleries. There are marks found on the walls, and niany curious ornaments sculptured in the cornice. The Great Hospital of St. John is described as standing a.d. 1322, by Sir John Mandeville, as a pal- ace supported and ornamented by 178 stone pillars. The order of Knights Templar was gathered from the nobles of all Europe, and M^as at first chari- table,for the relief of pilgrims, but afterwards became religious and military. They were recognized as an oi'der as late as 1800, at which time Malta was restored to them by England and France, when Paul, the Em- peror of Russia, was the Grand Master. But England now holds the island, and the knights have lost all dominion and power. The gateway of the ruined hospital in Jerusalem is still standing, though very ruinous. It presents a flattened pointed arch, which is succeeded by a round arch behind, ornamented with rich historical and emblematical carvings in stone. Among many finely designed and chiselled figures may be seen the Laisib, which was the peculiar emblem of the order. There are broken stairs, a court suri-ounded by a cloister in ruins, with the remains of several rooms, also the remains of the chapel, large, and ornamented with a window, with stained or painted glass. This monastery was founded in honor of St. John the Bap- tist (Saewolf, A.D. 1102). These mouldering ruins are memorials of the nol)le order of Kniglits, whose strong arms were for ages the bulwark against the aggressive Moslems, and fc^N H m m W whose deeds have made the names of Acre, RhodeSj and Malta, stir the heart of many readers of ancient history. Every remnant of this remarkable edifice also in- dicates the handiwork of the same craftsmen who erected the Temple of Solomon, as its emblems, signs, and inscriptions are closely analogous to those found on the ruins about the Temple Area, other ruiuB in Palestine, and in the Cathedrals of Europe, especially, in the ancient Cathedi-al in Glasgow, where may be seen characters nearly identical with those foimd on the Sanctuary Walls at Jerasalem. 1^1 THE PKIVATE MAKKS OF THE BUILDERS AND THE GREAT SUBTERRANEAN QUARRY. Marks found on Stones in the Foundation Walh of the Temjple Area. — Marks found in Samaria and in Hebron. — The Great Subterranean Quarry. It is a matter of the highest interest, while carrying on antiquarian researches, to discover the evidences which preceded us in our particular calling. Although Free Masonry is now speculative, still there was a time when the Master Mason was the real director of the construction of Beautiful Edifices, of which the Magnificent Temple of Solomon, and latterly the wonderful Cathedrals dotted all over Europe, are specimens ; the evidences of which work in the written record has long been familiar on the page of history, but the symbolic private marks of the builders, used by the master workman, for the guidance of the craft in laying the stones in their places, liave escaped their proper notice. Many of these marks have been found on stones, in the founda- tion walls of the Temple enclosure, at Jerusalem. They are also found in other parts of Palestine, and in every country where the Craft have since left evi- dences of their skill and industry. These marks have been found on a large number of stones, in different courses in tlie Sanctuary Wall, and having been covered with earth, were protected from the action of the elements, and the busy hands of men. The few of which sketches are given, give a com- plete idea of the whole, as they are almost repetitions of similar characters, found wherever edifices and other works have been constructed by the Craft, and were doubtless put on by the Master workmen to in- dicate the position of the stones in the walls or struc- tures where found. These marks have been found on the east of Jordan, on the stones of Palmyra, Bozrah, and other cities that were built since the time of Solomon, and, wherever the characters are found, they are of the same style and color, being made with red paint. The base of this paint is red chalk, which is a natural production and nearly inde- structible by time or the action of the elements. It is found on the Egyptian monuments, where it has stood fresh and bright for 35 centuries. Several of the groups of these characters were re- cently discovered by Captain Warren, K. E., while carrying on explorations around the south-east corner of the Sanctuary Wall (wall of the Temple enclos- ure). A shaft was sunk at about twenty feet south- east of this corner of the wall, and at a depth of fifty- three feet a gallery was excavated westward, which reached the Wall about six feet north of the corner ; from this point galleries and shafts were excavated which uncovered the wall at several places, and here were found most of the following groups of tliese marks : — Group No. 1 was found cut in on stones in the third and fifth courses. -:a mn \ UNIVE.. ^Ln or '^ No. 2 was found on the second stone from the corner in the second course — made with red paint. No. 3 was on the wall a short distance from Group No. 2. No. 4 was on the corner-stone in the third course — red paint. No. 5. This Group was found in that part of the gallery where the explorer is seen examining the marks on the wall. These marks resemble the letters O Y Q — red paint. No. 6 was on the third stone north in the second course — red paint. No. 7 was on the sixth stone in the third coui-se, and on a stone in the tenth course a small cross was found cut in. No. 8. This group was found on stones in the west wall of the Sanctuary, near the Jews' wailing-place ; and at the base of the Tower of Antonia, nortli-east angle of the wall, was found another group of marks ill red paint. No. 9. Found in a cave near the Coenaculum. No. 10 is a group of marks gathered fi'om the ancient structures of Kuryet el Enab, and also known as Abu Gosh village, the Emmaus of the time of Christ, and the more ancient Kirjath Jearim of Solomon's age. Here are several very neatly made and familiar figures, not unlike some in use at this day. They were very clearly drawn, in red color, as nearly all of such marks are, in every country where the craft have had use for them. The group No. 11, from Samaria, claims equal attention for their peculiar design and evident anti- kU'^: :Al C<- '^''^^ ^ m m §' quity. The structm-es at Samaria date from the time of Shemer, who was nearly contemporary with Solo- mon, and in style, design, and finish, as far as the remains liave been examined, they carry the evidence of originality with them, and the work of the buildera of the age of the thi-ee grand masters. Xo. 12 is on a stone at Beeroth, and looks familiar with its letters so like our K and R, with a cross and arrow, and at first glance suggests some of the mono- grams of Constantine, or Charlemagne, but a closer insf)ection determines them to be separate and dis- tinct signs, not connected, as if for a name. No. 13. This cross was found on a stone among the rubbish at the foot of the wall near the Damascus Gate. Nos. 14, 15, and 16 were discovered by A. L. Raw- son, who, disguised as a Mohammedan student of law, (Katib or Scribe) visited the ancient mosque at He- bron, and made sketches of the interior of the tombs, also the inscriptions, marks, and devices, which were ctct in the wall in the different parts of this build- ing. There seems to have been originally a small structure, over and around which several additions have been made from age to age, until it has grown into a colossal mass of buildings, and finally thrown off its character as a church and became a mosque with lofty minarets at the corners. The walls are very ancient and portions of tliem are like the Sanctuary Wall at Jerusalem, and walla at other places, where the distinctive mark is the Phoe- nician or Hebrew bevel ; this is found on all the old parts of the wall. i! f^s m :m \ K A 125 Beneath this structure is a chamber, having for its roof a part of the floor of the mosque ; and in a recess, not now in use, were found the three groups of mai'ks. No. 17. This group was found on the walls of tlie ancient Cathedral at Glasgow. These later groups all being very similar to those found on the Sanctu- ary wall, tell the same story of the work of the ancient builders. At first glance several of the characters seen in the different groups of marks appear very much like the letters HMCRDKOW and others, but an exam- ination of the Phoenician and Ilebrew alphabets will show that these forms are only accidentally similar. The other marks are well known to the Craft, and need no explanation here. Besides the ancient marks there are characters written on the walls which were repaired or built by the fraternity during the crusades. These are distinctly Roman letters and numerals, with a very small proportion of signs, that are repetitions of those used by the ancient builders, and evidently used for the same purpose. That purpose, it is quite cer- tain, was, besides the proper placing of the stones in the walls, the designation of that part of the work which was done by any particular company or lodge. Some used the five-pointed star, others a circle divid- ed into four or six parts. A circle with a T occurs very often on different parts of the works, and cates either a large lodge, or a very industrious The antiquity of these marks may be the more tainly determined from the fact that there ar( distinctive Chi-istian emblems nor Mohammedan signs '^y^r^!f=^ ^E^^S3^ among them, only one, the cross of the Knights Tem- plar, being siibject to a date more recent than the age of Christ, except those mentioned as being on parts that had been repaired or rebuilt. The chief interest in these antiquities centres in the fact that they are evidences that a certain order of men worked together for a certain purpose, in those early times, and have left behind them, without de- sign, these signs of their occupation and method of working. That they had a uniform system of marks and signs appears from the similarity of these characteis wherever found, both in Palestine and Europe, where there are ancient moniunents or cathedi'als erected by those skilled workmen. An idea of the great extent of the systematic work done in Jerusalem alone, can be formed from a summary of the recent explorations and discoveries there. The substructions of Solomon's Temple have been almost entirely examined, and those columns aie found to be built of carefully cut stones, with the characteristic rebate or bevel at the comers, form- ing panels every few feet. These columns suppoit arches turned in the most skillful manner, and as solid as when built. A large part of the massive ancient walls of the city, has been traced out, and these, with the ruins of aqueducts, vaults, and chambers are nearly alwa^ s of the beveled style or Phoenician — which was the style of the Masonic craftsmen. I/U i/ Fold Out I^S^^:: M. among them, only one, the cross of the Knights Tem- plar, being subject to a date more recent than the age of Christ, except those mentioned as being on parts that had been repaired or rebuilt. The chief interest in these antiquities centres in the fact that they are evidences that a certain order of men worked together for a certain purpose, in those early times, and have left behind them, without de- sign, these signs of their occupation and method of working. That they had a uniform system of marks and signs appears from the similarity of these characters wherever found, both in Palestine and Europe, where there are ancient monuments or cathedi-als erected by those skilled workmen. An idea of the great extent of the systematic work done in Jerusalem alone, can be formed from a summary of the recent explorations and discoveries there. The substructions of Solomon's Temple have been almost entirely examined, and those columns are found to be built of carefully cut stones, with the characteristic rebate or bevel at the corners, form- ing panels every few feet. These columns support arches turned in the most skillful manner, and as solid as when built. A large part of the massive ancient walls of the city, has been traced out, and these, with the ruins of aqueducts, vaults, and chambers are nearly always of the beveled style or Phoenician — which was the style of the Masonic craftsmen. ml vff /iQ M £ IS ^ I •[ 'A m 11 II W G R m m Te It is only a few years since, that Dr. Barclay, an American physician and missionary, resident of Jerusalem, discovered the entrance to the ancient sub- terranean quarry, from which the great stones were taken for the foundation walls of the Temple built by Solomon. Certain passages in Kings and Chronicles were somewhat obscure until light was thrown upon them by an examination of the place where the workmen " sawed with saws, stones," " great stones," and carefully chij^ped off the rough corners, and finished the " costly stones " for those magnificent edifices which were the admiration of the age in which they were built, and the wonder of all suc- ceeding ages. The quantity of stone required for these structures was truly immense ; that of the Temple foundations alone requiring more than one million square yards of stone, which are now in position in the Avails and may be examined. This quarry is underground, and der that part of the city just north and west of the mple Area, now called Bezetha, and occupied by the Mohammedans. The entrance is a few rods east of the Damascus Gate, outside of the city wall. The largest room in the cave is 750 feet long, about 100 wide, and 30 feet Ji. Large pillars of the rock were left at intervals for the sup]K-)rt of the ponderous ceilino;. Several 1 132 smaller rooms open from the larger one ; in all of them are fomid marks of the workmen's tools. The stone is a soft limestone nearly as white and soft as chalk, and may be sawed into blocks now as it was in Solomon's time. The harder variety is a buff color, streaked with orange, and takes a fine polish. The white stone grows harder by exposure to air and water . There are many little shelves cut in the walls, on which the lamps were set, and the smoke from the burn- ing lamps can still be traced on the white walls, almost as black and sooty as though the quarrymen had left them last week instead of ages ago. "Water trickles down from the roof of the cave in many places from leaky reservoirs or drains above, and has thus formed stalactites, and the drip- pings from these have made their opposites from below, rising from the floor in some places several feet in a great variety of forms. In the most southern cave there is a spring of water, but in consequence of the limestone formation of the locality it is not sweet. There is no doubt but that the builders had an opening in the south end of the )U2:h which the stone AKCIENT LAMP. '•y . emp easily slid down to the Temple site, for the whole of the quarry is higher than the Temple area. Tliis ^^vL Plan of the Great Quarry under Jerusalem opening has not yet been found, but doubtless will be as soon as the Moliammedans will permit a search to be made. Josephus says that the Jews hid away from Titus in a cave, and there is room enough in this quarry for the population of the city to have gathered without crowding. The floor is very uneven, with a general descent south, and there are precipices formed by the workmen taking out large blocks below the level of the floor in different places.* The ground is everywhere littered with chippings and blocks of stone, large and small. There are great blocks of stone, partly quarried, still hanging to the native mass. One of these was a stone about 10 feet high and between 3 and 4 feet square. The workmen had commenced by cutting a crease upon two sides about four inches wide, and had proceeded until it was about two feet deep on each side of the block. This must have been done with a long pointed instrument having a chisel-shaped end. They had no gunpowder in those da^^s, and seem not to have understood how to split them with wedges, but literally chiselled them out ,by persevering labor. The work of cutting out this block was nearly completed, for the two grooves, one from the front and the other from the side, at right angles with each other, had * A few years since a human skeleton was found at the bottom of one of these precipices, showing that some unknown explorer had stumbled over there, and thus perished in a place which thousands of years before was thronged with the busy workmen of Solomon. » ^M^^^s^ been carried nearly to the necessary depth to allow the upright mass to be pried from its bed. The marks of the tool are as perfect as if made yesterday ; but the workmen left this, with much more unfinished work, and never returned. Who can tell why ? Was it in consequence of an attack on the city from an invading army? or was it found just at this par- ticular time that no more stone were needed ? In proof of this being the quarry from which the stone for the Temple were procured, we have the following facts : — First, the stone is the same in every respect as that of portions of the old wall still remain- ing ; second, the immense piles of chippings found in this quarry show that the stone were not only quar- ried, but dressed and finished here, — corresponding with the account, that they were brought to the Temple ready to be laid without the aid of hammer or graving tool ; third, the extreme age of this quarry, which dates hack in legends and traditions to the time of Jeremiah / lastly, there are no other great quarries near the city, from which this kind of stone could have been taken. So then this is the place, where nearly three thousand years ago the craftsmen of Solomon prepared the stone for the magnificent Temple of God. It is now a solemn and gloomy cavern ; large numbers of bats hang to the ceiling, and, aroused by the approach of the explorer, flit about his head. Occasionally a pile of bones brought in by jackals, arrest his attention, and the giving away of the earth under his feet, indicates the places where they burrowed. Darkness impenetrable and silence pro found pervade the place. The grandeur of its lofty n n 139 ceilings, its vast extent, its legends and associations, all combine to inspire the exjDlorer with feehngs of astonishment and awe. The Crusaders have left many marks on the walls, showing that this qiiarrj was kno^vn in tJieir day, also proving the antiquity of several of the signs now in use by the craft. To all who hold the common faith in the God of Abraham, the historical evidence derived from this quarry, and all the surrounding facts in proof of the truth of Scripture history is beyond price, and must be convincing to all reflecting minds. And to masons who believe in the antiquity of the origin of the order,this must be a source of great satisfaction, as this evidence, in connection with recent discoveries made about the temple area, including the private marks of the builders, leaves but little room to doubt that the order originated at the building of Solomon's Temple. i^s- THt ORIENT. 141 CHAPTER YII. PLACES HISTOEICALLY CONNECTED WITH KING SOLOMON's TEMPLE, AND THE BUILDERS. Ancient Tyre, Hiram^s Tomh — Jojppa — Mt. Leba- non — Pass of the Jordan — Sebron, its important Relics of Antiquity ; its singular Mosque, and Fanatical Inhabitants — The ruins of Beeroth — Kirjath-Jearim — Samaria, Church of St. John — King Solomon's Store Cities, Baalbek — Tadmor, and Hamath. TYRE. This ancient sea port is situated 8Y miles N. E. of Joppa, and 114 N. of Jerusalem. Accordinp^ to Josephus, Tyre was founded aLont 210 years before the building of Solomon's Temple. It was a strong city, and a stronghold in the days of David ; and it is called by Isaiah," a city whose anti- quity is of ancient days." The original Tyre stood on the mainland opposite the present town ; and at an early period bore the name of Palsetyrus, or Old Tyre. The present town stands on a rocky peninsula, which was an island un- til 350 B. C, when Alexander the Great built his famous military causeway out to it from the main land. Afterwards the accumulation of sand around, and over this causeway rendered it terra firma, thus forming the peninsula. At the period when Phoenician civilization began to bear sway over all the western world, Tyre was ISO \35 PLACES HISTOKICALLY CONNECTED WITH KING SOLOMON 3 Ancient Tyre, Siram^s Tomb — Joj>pa — Mt Leba- non — Pass of the Jordan — Hebron, its imjportant Relics of Antiquity ^ its singular Mosque, and Fanatical Inhabitants — The ruins of Beeroth — Kirjath-Jearim — Samaria, Church of St. John- King Solomon's Store Cities, Baalbek — Tadmor, and Hamath. TYRE. This ancient sea port is situated 87 miles N. E. of Joppa, and 114 N. of Jerusalem. According to Josephus, Tyre was founded about 240 years before the building of Solomon's Temple. It was a strong city, and a stronghold in the days of David ; and it is called by Isaiah," a city whose anti- quity is of ancient days." The original Tyre stood on the mainland opposite the present to\^^l ; and at an early period bore the name of Palaetyrus, or Old Tyre. The present to\m stands on a rocky peninsula, which was an island un- til 350 B. C, when Alexander the Great built his famous military causeway out to it from the main land. Afterwards the accumulation of sand around, and over this causeway rendered it terra firma, thus forming the peninsula. At the period wlien Phoenician civilization began to bear sway over all the western world. Tyre was tm wm I |- the cynosure not only of all Phoenicia,but of all the surrounding countries, and the theatre of mighty in- fluences, and of an immense commerce. At the time of Solomon and the Hirams, Tyre was one of the rich- est cities in the world, its people being among the most skillful manufacturers and builders of that period, manufacturing many articles of luxury and use, and having for customers maiiy nations. " Syria was thy merchant, by reason of the multitude of the wares of thy making : they occupied in thy fairs with emeralds, purple and broidered work, and linen, and coral, and agate." Judah, and the land of Israel, they were thy mer- chants : they traded in thy market, wheat of Minnith, and Pannag (Genseng), and honey, and oil, and balm. Damascus was thy merchant in the multitude of the wares of thy making, for the multitude of all riches; in the wine of Helbon, and white wool." (Ezek. xxvii. 17, 18.) Among the principal articles of export, were glass, sugar, and the famous Tyrian dye. Sugar-cane was cultivated to a considerable extent in the vicinity of Tyre, and sugar made, similar to that now made in the "West Indies, and other tropical regions. Hiram, King of Tyre, sent cedar wood and work- men to build David a palace (2 Sam. vii.), and he afterwards sent Hiram the widow's son, a Jew of the tribe of Naphtali, who cast the vessels of bronze ^or the Temple, King Hiram furnishing the metal, also the cedar and fir trees ; and the Jews and Phoenicians worked together, the friendship between them continuing for over a century. ^11 Afterwards, however, the Phoenicians sold Jewish children into captivity. (Joel iii. 6-8.) Carthage was planted as a colony of Tyre 869 b.c. There was a Temple at Tyre in honor of Hercules, In which he was worshiped as a god, under the name of Melkarth; and Arrian, the historian (b.c. 150), says that it was the most ancient Temple in the world. Ashtoreth was also worshiped there, who is called Diana, and Queen of Heaven. Solomon built a shrine in honor of this goddess on the Mount of Olives, opposite Jerusalem, as a token of his friendship for Hiram of Tyre. At the time of the Assyrian invasion under Shal- maneser. Tyre had acquired such vast opulence, and splendor, as to be declared by inspiration " the joyous city, the crowning city, whose merchants were prin- ces, whose traffickers were the honorable of the earth." But while this mart of nations was still in the full blaze of its magnificence, at least 125 years before it met with any serious disaster, or anything had occur- red to humble it, a series of prophetic denunciations began to be recorded against it by the inspired mes- sengers of heaven, that it should be captured and de-- stroyed by the Chaldeans, etc. — prophecies which were literally fulfilled. The history of Tyre from the commencement of its disasters till the period of its final overthrow, is replete with interest, both on account of its verifying the complete fulfillment of the prophesies against it, and of its moral lesson. After^halmaneser had conquered the kingdom of Israel, and carried its inhabitants into captivity, he turned his arms against the Phcenician cities. At (^ Byt ^^W^^S 144 this time Tyre had reached a high point of pros- perity ; it possessed Cyprus, and had planted the Bj)lendid colony of Carthage, but notwithstanding its powerful condition, several of its dependencies re- volted and joined Shalmaneser, furnishing him sixty ships, and 800 rowers. Against this fleet the Tyrians sailed with only twelve vessels, but with these they completely dispersed the enemy, taking 500 prisoners. After this engagement the King of Ass3a*ia withdrew the main body of his army, leaving only a small de- tachment to guard the great aqueduct, hoping to bring them to terms by this means, but failed, as the inhabitants supplied themselves with water from their wells. At a latter period. Nebuchadnezzar besieged the wdiole city, and nearly desti'oyed Old Tyre. After- wards, Alexander the Great besieged the city, and destroyed what remained of the old town, but the island city offered such stout resistance that lie was compelled to build a causeway out to it from the main land, and used for materials the ruins of tlie old city. When this causeway was nearly completed, a sortie from the besieged, followed by a storm nearly destroyed his works ; to repair the damages, and com- plete the causeway, he scraped together the remaining rubbish, and even the very earth of Old Tyre ; thus fulfilling this part of the prophecies. — "And they shall lay thy stones, and thy timber, and thy dust in the water." The island city was at this time surrounded by a strong wall 120 feet high, and was otherwise strongly fortified, but notwithstanding this, and the great dif- P !^/. Acuities Alexander encountered in building the cause- way, he succeeded after a period of seven months in taking this insular stronghold. He then set fire to it : 15,000 of the inhabitants escaped in ships, multi-' tildes were slain, and 30,000 were sold into slavery.-^ Subsequently the island city was partially rebuilt, and - continued to be a stronghold under the dominion of the Seleucidffi ; it then stood a siege of fourteen months from Antigonus. On the conquest of Syria by the Ro- mans, it came under their power, and is described by Strabo as being at this time a flourishing trading city, with two ports, the old harbor having become perma- nently bisected by the mole of Alexander. Jerome speaks of it in the fourth century as the most beautiful city in Phoencia, and as still trading with all the world. In the seventh century it was taken by the Saracens, and in the twelfth by the Crusaders, and remained" nearly 170 years in possession of the Christians ; dur- ing their occupation it continued to be opulent and- powerful. At this time it was fortified on the land side by strong quadruple walls, and on the sea side by .a cita- del with seven towers, yet notwithstanding these strong fortifications the city fell suddenly and in a singular manner. In A.D. 1291, the Sultan of Egypt invested Ptolemais (Acre) and took it by storm, after a siege of two months. On the same day on which Ptolemais was taken, the Tyrians embarked in their ships, and abandoned tlie city, leaving it empty ; and thus the Egyptians found it the next day. From this blow it never recovered, but continued to sink deeper, and deeper, until travelers of the sixteenth century describe it as being only a heap of ruins, broken arches and i vaults, tottering walls, and towers, with a few misera- ble inhabitants living in the vaults among the rubbish. But in 1776 some Metualis from Lebanon took pos- session of Tyre, built up the present walls, and thug laid the foundation for its partial revival. Twenty years later, according to Volney it consisted of poor huts, but which covered nearly a third of the penin- sula. Some little trade with Egypt has given it an impulse during the present century ; but the close proximity of the flourishing city of Beyroot, will at present, at least, prevent it from attaining any consid- erable enlargement. Mr. Bartlet when passing Tyre on board a steamer in 1842, thus alludes to it, " Tyre soon appeared, — a low rocky point projecting into the sea, and for the cry from her thousand ships, and crowded port, there is nothing now but silence and a few fishing boats ; and we should have sailed past the spot without no- ticing it had we not known that a great commercial city once existed there — the London of the old world." The present town stands at the junction of the island, and the isthmus formed by Alexander's cause- way, and the eastern wall includes a portion of the isthmus. On the north and west, towards the sea, the walls are so far broken away, as to be scarcely discernible. The inner port or basin on the north was formerly enclosed by a wail running from the north end of the island in a curve towards the main- land. Fragments of this wall still remain, sufiicieht to mark its course. The western shore is a ledge of rugged picturesque rocks from 15 to 20 feet high, upon which the waves of the Mediterranean dash in i mi « ceaseless surges. Between the houses of the town and the western shore is a broad strip of open land now given up to tillage.^ KUINS. The western shore is strewn from one end to the other, along the water and in it, with columns of red and grey granite of various sizes, and at the N.W. point, over forty such columns are thrown together in one heap beneath the waves. Along this part of the shore, the continual action of the sea appears to have had the effect to form layers of new rock, in which stone, bones, and fragments of pottery are found cemented together as constituent parts. Throughout the old city heaps of debris and rub bish are found, in some of which piles of broken glass* (doubtless the waste of the factories of ancient Tyre), and broken shells, of the kind that furnished the purple dye, are found — but one of the most in terestino; relics now to be seen is a laro-e stone in the sea-wall, 17 feet long, 6^ high, and nearly 5 feet thick. This stone has the rebate, or bevel so noted in Phoenician and Jewish works, and lies in its original position where it was placed over 3,000 years ago. There are also many columns, and floors of marble buried under the rubbish all over the island and main- land city, and thousands of whole and broken col- iimns, capitals, and pannels have been carried away to Joppa, Acre, Beyroot, and other cities to be built * Robert Morris, in 1868, was so fortunate as to find a glass bottle among the rubbish, holding about three pints, and nearly perfect. m i ill, ^^f into modern houses, or burnt into lime, and this work is still going on. Those that lie in the sea, are fretted and perforated by ages of exposure to the storms and tempests common to this coast. The many remains of beautiful columns and other ruins of ancient edi- fices attest the opulence, and grandeur of this once proud metropolis. On the mainland there is a ruined Cathedral Church, which dates from the earliest ages, and has memories lingering around it of the pleasing old his- torian, William of Tyre, who was also a bishop of Tyre, and officiated within those walls. It was one of the most beautiful churches which the Crusaders built in Palestine ; its length was 205 feet, and nearly 140 wide, and has this peculiarity, that the transept projects 15 feet on each side. The other proportions and plans are similar to those of other churches at Samaria and Lydda. It has three naves and three apses, separated by a balustrade. This church was partly constructed from the spoils of ancient Temples. On the ground now lie prostrate magnificent columns carved in rose granite, monoliths which by their dimensions must have originally been parts of a structure of the first order, and which were, undoubtedly the central pillars of the cathedral. The windows are curiously ornamented on the outside, having a scroll and fretwork, indented and rectangular. The arch rests on an abacus with a very elaborate pattern. The only part of this edifice now standing is the east- ern end, and the three apses enclosed in the wall of the modern city. The walls are built against by the mud- vt5^,.C^ §^ 'I m m # I w huts of the poor, like huge swallows' nests plastered into all the corners and transepts, and the ragged women and children fill the place with their noisy gabble, where had been heard in eloquent tones the voices of Paulinus its Bishop, and a brother of Euse- bius, who wrote the consecration sermon, which we still have, and also wrote the early history of the church, and of William of Tyre, the bishop and his- torian, and greater than these, Origen, who may be said to have saved the Holy Scriptures from oblivion, through his labors of a long lifetime, in collecting, translating, and arranging, from every country, the scattered frao-ments. This historic ruin now echoes to the gossip of poor Arabs who watched its slow decay ever since the last religious service was held in it — almost the last held by the Crusaders in Palestine. At the time of Christ, Tyre contained a population of about 150,0 00 souls, but since it has been under Turkish rule (a.d. 1291), it has rapidly declined until it is now only a miserable Arab village of 3,000 in- habitants, many of the dwellings being constructed of stone, which had done service in the walls of splendid ancient public edifices and dwellings. The silence, desolation, and ruins of this once proud city, all attest the complete fulfilment of the pro- phesies of its destruction. " And they shall destroy the walls of Tyrus, and break down her towers : I will also scrape her dust from her, and make her like the top of a rock." It sliall be Q,j)lace for the spreading of nets in the midst of the sea : for I have spoken it, saith the Lord God : and it shall become a spoil to the nations. WM ^'/iJJ'*^-^'* 'If if^. And I will cause the noise of thy songs to cease and the sound of thy harps shall be no more heard {&eHel, xxvi. 4, 5, 13.) KING HIEAM. Hiram, King of Tyre, was son of a former King of Tyre of the same name, and, like him, a friend of David. He congratulated Solomon at the commence- ment of his reign, and furnished essential aid in building the Temple. He provided timber and stones, together with gold, and received in return large supplies of corn, wine, and oil. And when the Tem- ple and the King's palace were completed he was presented with twenty cities in the land of Cabul ; but, not deeming them acceptable, he remonstrated with Solomon, saying, " What cities are these which thou hast given me, my brother?" (1 Kings ix. 13). He afterwards joined Solomon in his commercial en- terprises (1 Kings ix. 26-2S ; x. 11-22). Josephus relates that he greatly improved his city and realm, and died after a prosperous reign of thirty -four years, at the age of fifty-two. -^ Solomon's cistern. About 3 miles South of Tyre is Kas-el-Ain, the head of the Cisterns of Solomon. There are three fountains, extending in a line nearly a fm-long in length from east to west, and overflowing with clear ' water which springs as if by enchantment from a flat, 'sandy and parched soil. The mouth of tlie principal well is an octagon, each side of which is 23 feet, 3 inches, and its hight above the plain over 15 feet, © m ^^j \ si I / ^^^^^^8S^ 153 and its depth below the level of the ground 35 feet This vast reservoir is composed of gravel and cement, which form a wall of enormous thickness, and as hard and durable as rock. A part of this wall projects over the water in the form of a half arch. The water, instead of being on a level with the surrounding country, rises up to the brink of the cistern, and that with such force and abundance, that after issuinof from an outlet which has been broken in the western side, it forms a rivulet which turns several mills on its passage to the sea. The ancient outlet now stopped up M^as on the east side over an aqueduct, which con-"' nected with two smaller cisterns, one of which is 20, and the other 12 yards square. After receiving their contributions into its ample channel, the aqueduct turned toward the N. E., to a small rocky eminence, on which is the tomb of an Arab Santon, and where in ancient times stood the citadel of old Tyre. The ruins of the magnificent arches of this aqueduct can be seen at a considerable distance, and the water oozing out at the breakages, or filtering tln-ough the cement, has encrusted them all over M^ith stahxctites of a peculiar form, which at a little distance gives them the appearance of being clothed with some gi- gantic foliage. hiram's well. Near the termination of this ancient aqueduct in the city there is a ruined tower over a well from which the principal supply of water is now obtained. This tower is on the sandy isthmus, consequently the water, which is pure and good, must come from the Vf old aqueduct, although at this place it must be many feet below the earth and rubbish, and this is further strengthened by the fact of the water becoming troub- led in the month of September, and of a reddish color, simultaneously with that of the fountains at Ras-el-Ain. Tradition claims that this well and tower were built by Solomon, the son of David, Morning and even- ing, long files of women with their ancient looking water jars may be seen going to and coming from this well with the day's: supply of its sweet water. The traveler Sandys, writing in 1610, says of Tyre, "This once famous Tyre is now no other than a heap of ruins; yet have they a reverent respect: and do instruct the pensive beholder with their exemplary frailty." In alluding to its fountains he says, " We passed certain cisterns some miles and better distant from the city ; which are called Solomon's by the Christians of this country, I know not why, unless these are they which he mentions in the Canticles. Square they are and large ; replenished with living water, which was in time past conveyed by aqueducts into the orchards." \m- ^mA THE FAMOUS TTRIAN PIJEPLE DTE. This was extracted from shells, which in former times were thrown up in great quantities along the sea shore, in July and August. These shells are now very scarce, still some are occasionallyfound in midsum- mer;and at this period is celebrated the feast of Sheikh Marshook, whose tomb stands on a rocky eminence. At this time the children collect these shells, which, as soon as they are withdrawn from the water, emit a slimy matter of a pale violet color ; with this they draw re- VNiVERsn y ) l\>^' %t\ 157 gnlar stripes on white cloths, then add a little soda and lemon juice, when the linen becomes striped with the brightest colors. At this feast every child carries one of these variegated banners on the end of a stick. A very interesting discovery in connection with this dye was made some years since. There was found a number of round cavities cut in the solid limestone rock, varying in size from that of an ordinary iron pot to that of a large cauldron, the largest being seven feet in diameter by eight feet in depth. They were perfectly smooth on the inside, and most of them shaped exactly like a large pot of the present day ; broad and flat at the bottom, and contracting towards the top. Some were found in clusters, others detached. Tliose in clusters were connected at the top by small channels cut in the stones. Nearly all of these pot-holes were filled with a breccia of shells ; in other places where the pots were empty, this breccia lie in heaps beside the rock. These doubt- less were the mortars or vats in which the purple dye was manufactured ; and this breccia is the same described by the old authors, as that from which the color was extracted. These stone pots or vats might also have been used for dyeing cloth ; as such pots, either cut in the rock or formed of baked clay, and sunk in the earth, are still found in many'parts of the East, and may be seen in some of the back streets of Alexandria and Cairo, and such ai-e used for in- digo dyeing throughout JSTorthern Africa. hieam's tomb. About six miles fi'om the city of Tyre, among the \\L hills which are dotted with many villages cosil;y bowered in groves of olive, orange, lemon, and pome- granate trees, there stands a grand and massive sarco- phagus lifted high on a solid pedestal of limestone, with a deep arched well or large cistern near it. This sarcophagus is 12 ft. 11 in. long by 7 ft. 8 in. wide, and 3 ft. 6 in. high ; the lid is roof -shaped and 3 ft. 6 in. high. The lid is apparently unfinished in the respect that there are none of the elevated corners so constant a feature in all other tombs in this vicinity, and as appears in the illustration; the shape of the stone favors the supposition that the corners may have been broken off. The base is formed of three tiers of stones each 13 feet long, by nearly 11 ft. wide. The stones forming the third course project a little all around, and are 15 feet long, 10 wide, and 3 feet 4 inches thick. The next on which the coffin rests is 12 feet 3 inches long, and 8 feet thick.* The view is from the west end, from which direc- tion it is seen to the best advantage. There is no at- tempt at finish anywhere ; the great blocks of stone were only squared and laid over one another, without any intentional architectural effect beyond the slightly decreasing size of the immense blocks. The cap- stone or lid is raised in the centre like a roof, in the manner of other lids of sarcophagi, which are found scattered about in many parts of Palestine. The east end of this tomb has been broken oj)en, but whether by robbers in search of plunder or by curiosity-seekers is not known. With the exception * These dimendons were taken by Robert Morris in 1868, who made the most accurate measurement of them ever yet taken. i ^tP2i i>i ^^ .-'^ =tr of the break tins monument has not been injured, and only shows the touches of time during the many cen- turies it has been exposed to the severe winter storms of this coast. The site was well selected for the sepulchre of the great Phoenician king, being high on the brow of a hill, or rather on the crest of a range of hills, where the eye may look over the plain to the sea and the city, which once boasted of its rule on that sea as a god. The commanding location of this tomb, its massive proportions and neighboring ruins, are strongly cor- roborative of the tradition that this was the last rest- ing place of King Solomon's friend. It is of great antiquity, and the surrounding ruins indicate that this was only the central body, around and over which was a structure adorned in a style befitting the pur- pose, the age, and the wealth of the nation, which boasted of its advanced position among the culti- vated nations. There are several other tombs scattered about in the fields in this vicinity, which are popularly said to have been those of various members of King Hiram's family. These stone coflSns are still quite numerous in thiB part of Palestine, although the Mohammedans have been breaking them up for building purposes, or burning them into lime for ages. Several hundred are still lying about the hill near Klian Khuldeh, twelve miles south of Beirut. Some of them are or- namented with carvings of flowers, wreaths of leaves, cherubs, Baal head figures of warriors, very well de- ;f!^ signed, and nearly all have raised coruers, somewhat hke a horn. But nowhere is there any instance of an inscription, mark, or character, except on the coffin of the King of Sidon, which was brought to light a few years since. The whole vicinity of Hiram's tomb abounds in ruins of Phoenician character, the most important of which is a pavement in colored marble covering the whole inside area of a heathen temple, with figm-es of Greek and Phcenician deities, each with the name cut in ancient Greek or Phoenician letters on each side of the head and inside of a circle. There are altogether 40 gods and goddesses porti-ayed ; besides on one side 48 circles containing fishes, animals, and fowls, and on the other 64 circles of the same character. Be- tween the columns are animals chasing each other, such as leopards, lions, bears, chasing deer, boars, rab- bits, etc. There is quite a natural history in this pavement. Some Greek words and names found here may help to fix the date of the structure, which has not yet been determined. The number of important ruins in this part of Phoenicia is so great as to fill a large volume, with even a slight notice of each, proving that the Phoeni- cians were a highly-cultivated, skillful, and wealthy jieople, fond of the fine arts and full of public spirit. Their descendants who now occupy the country are simply barbarians in comparison, caring little for the arts, bent only on a fanatical display of veneration and devotion to God, and — his prophet Mohammed. W^ m V Or , . -Ml A! %.^ 4 7 \\ LEBANON. A SKETCH OF ITS HISTOBT. ITS WONDEKFtJL TOPO- GKAPHY. THE KENOWNED CEDARS. THE FOREST WHERE THEY WERE PROCURED FOR SOLOMOn's TEMPLE. HOW THEY WERE CONVEYED FROM THE MOUNTAINS TO THE SEA, AND MADE UP INTO FLOATS. THE SINGU- LAR INHABITANTS OF LEBANON ; THEIR MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. THE AKALS, A SECRET ORDER, HAVING SIGNS, GRIPS, AND WORDS ANALOGOUS TO THOSE IN USE AMONG FREEMASONS. Lebanon is first mentioned in the covenant pro- mise given by the Lord to Israel (Deut. I, 7 ; xi. 24). To tlie inhabitants South, the cool streams and ver- dant forests must have been an earthly paradise when contrasted with their parched and thirsty country . The mountains were originally inhabited by a number of independent war-like tribes, some of- whom Josiiua conquered on the banks of lake Merom. Further north were the Ilivites, Giblites, and Arkites, whose names still cling to the ruins of their ancient strongholds. The Israelites were never able to subdue them ;but the Phoenicians had them under their power, or in their pay, for they got tim- ber from the mountains, and were able to supply Solomon with cedars from their forests. During the conquests of David, and the commercial prosper- ity of the Jews under Solomon, they became ac- quainted with the riches, grandeur, and luxuriant, foliage of Lebanon ; and ever after, that mountain was regarded as an emblem of wealth and majesty During the reign of the Selencidae several hai'g( cities were founded, and others rebuilt in these mountains. At the commencement of the Christian era, Lebanon, with the rest of Syria, passed into the hands of E.ome ; and under its rule great cities were built, and beautiful temples erected. The hights on which Baal fires had burned in primeval times, and the groves where the rude mountain tribes wor- shipped their idols, became the site of noble build- ings whose ruins, to this day, excite the admiration of every traveller. The temples of Baalbek and Chal- cis were not surpassed even in Greece. Owing to the almost inaccessible nature of this mountain country, its inhabitants have enjoyed great immunity from the wars and persecutions that have desolated other portions of Palestine ; and while Christianity was nearly extirpated from the rest of Syria, it has retained its hold here ; and the Maron- ites and Druzes, who still occupy the greater part of the range, are the lineal descendants of the ancient Syrians. The Maronites now number over 200,000. The Druzes, their hereditary foes, dwell towards the southern end of the range, and number about 80,000. The jealousies and feuds of these rival sects often desolate Lebanon with fire and sword. The whole range is now under the authority of the Pasha of Damascus. GEOGKAPHY AND TOPOGRAPHY. The mountain chain of Lebanon commences in \m •1 % 1 J Galilee near Acre, lat. 33° and extends in a nortli easterly direction, and nearly parallel with the Med iterranean, to the plain of Ilamath in lat. 34° 40', making its extreme length 100 geographical miles, and the average width of its base is about 20 miles. The highest peak, Dahr el Kudib, is 25 miles from the northern extremity, and jnst above a grove of the cedars. Its elevation is 10,051 feet; 23 miles to the southward of this is the massive round sum- mit of Sunin, — 8,500 feet high ; and the next highest peak is Jebel-Keniseh, 6,824 feet. The twin peaks, the highest peaks of Southern Lebanon, are about 6,700 feet high. From these the fall is rapid to the ravine of the river Litany. The view of Lebanon from the Mediterranean is grand and picturesque. It appears to rise from the deep like a vast wall ; the top covered with snow during winter and spring; and the highest peaks capped with ice and snow throughout the sul- triest days of mid-summer. The slopes facing the Mediterranean are long and gradual, and furrowed from top to bottom with deep rugged ravines, — broken everywhere by lofty cliffs of white rock, and tens of thousands of terrace walls rise like steps of stairs from the sea to the snow capped peaks far above. Nearly the whole mass of the mountain consists of a whitish limestone, or at least the rocky surface, as it everywhere exhibits a whitish aspect. The moun- tains of Lebanon teem with villages, and are culti- vated more or less nearly to the top. Yet so steep and rocky is the surface that the tillage is carried or « S^^ --^x mostly by means of terraces built up with great labor, and covered above with soil. In looking upwards from below the vegetation on the terraces is not seen, so that the whole mountain side appears as if com- posed of immense rugged masses of naked rocks, and one ignorant of the topographical peculiarities and ao;ricultural resources of this region would not sus- pect that among these rocks there existed a multitude of thrifty villages, and a numerous population of hardy, industrious, and brave mountaineers. But on reversing the view, and looking down the western slope from the brow of one of the projecting bluffs, a totally different, and highly picturesque scene is presented to view. The small areas at the tops of the terraces are green and golden-hued with vines, corn, and the foliage of the mulberry. The steeper banks and tops of ridges have their forests of pine and oak ; while far away down in the glens, around the villages and convents, are groves of olives. Cultivation extends only to the hight of about 6,000 feet ; above that line the mountains are nearly desti- tute of vegetation. -1^ \Wk RIVERS. The southern end of Ccele-Syria is divided by a low ridge into two branches. Down the eastern branch runs the Wady el-Teim, a tributary of the Jordan, and down the western flows the Litany. The latter branch soon contracts into a deep wild chasm, whose banks are in some places over a thousand feet high, of naked rocks, and nearly perpendicular. At one spot this ravine is only 60 feet wide, and is , I A 169 spanned by a natural bridge about 100 feet above tho stream. Above it,rises vast walls of naked limestone, pierced with numerous caves. At this place the scenery is strikingly magnificent. The high cliffs nearly meet overhead ; and rugged masses of rocks shoot out from dizzy bights above, and appear as if about to plunge into the chasm below ; the mad river far down in the depths dashing along from rapid to rapid, in sheets of foam. In wild grandeur this has but few equals in the world. The other rivers of Lebanon are the Nahr-el-Kelb (Dog River), Nahr-el-Kebir, Kadisha, and the Adonis. These rivers are fed by the eternal snows on the sum- mits of the mountains, and their waters are all re- freshingly cool until far down the mountain sides. Among the most noted is the Nahr-el-Kelb, which rises high up on the flank of the peak of Sunnin and dashes down through a deep glen. To the Mason the mouth of this river is a place of great interest, as being one of the two places where the cedars were made up into floats to be conveyed to Joppa for the Temple of Solomon. The Leontes — The sources of this river are at Baalbek, and Chalcis. The upper section of this stream is now called the Litany, and the lower sec- tion, the Kasimiyeh. The Kadisha, or Sacred River, — has its highest source around the most important grove of cedars, and decends through a deep, grand ravine 1,000 feet deep. Here, on opposite banks, are two villages the people of which can easily converse across the chasm, but to reach each other would require a toilsome walk of hours. In a wild cleft of this ravine is the convent of Kanobin, the residence of the Maronile patriarch. The mouth of this river is a short dis- tance below Tripolis, and here also a considerable portion of the cedar-timber for the Temple was brought from the mountains to be conveyed to Joppa. The Adonis — was famous Jn ancient fable as the scene of the romantic story of Adonis and Venus. Adonis was said to have been killed by a boar on its banks, and his blood dyed the waters, which have ever since, on the anniversary of his death, run red to the sea. The source of this stream is a noble fountain beside the ruins of a temple of Yenus, and near the site of Aphica. The Adonis empties into the sea, a short distauce south of Gebal. 11 CLIMATE. There is a great difference in the climate between the base of the mountains and their summits. In the plain of Dan, at the fountain of the Jordan, the heat and vegetation are almost tropical ; and the ex- halations from the marshy plain render this region unhealthy ; and the semi-nomads who inhabit it are as dark in complexion as Egyptians; but in the plains of Coele-Syria, 3,000 feet, and Damascus, 2,500 feet above the level of the sea, more or less snow falls every winter, and often to the depth of six and seven feet. The main ridges of Lebanon are generally covered with snow from December till March— some- times so deep that the roads are impassable for weeks together. During the whole summer the higher parts of the mountains are cool and pleasant, and the in air extremely dry. From the first of June till about tlie 20th of September rain never falls, and clouds are seldom seen. About the 20th of September the M'inter rains begin, usually accompanied with vivid lightning. The coldest months are January and February. The barley harvest begins about the first of August. Between an elevation of 2,000 and 5,000 feet the thermometer seldom rises liigher than 70° to 80° Fahr. in the hottest months of the year. The nights are cool and pleasant. In fact, the climate of this region in summer is enchanting. The air is so dry and pure, that objects are seen at a greater dis- tance than in most any other part of the world ; and by night the stars glow with unparalleled splendor in a firmament so clear that one almost fancies that the eye can penetrate further into its marvellous depths than in any other land. Beyroot, being next to the foot of these mountains, enjoys a very equitable and salubrious climate, which is a gi-eat inducement to invalids, or famihes travel- ling in pursuit of health to stop there ; and such per- sons find it a very pleasant and healthy residence. The close proximity of the mountains affords the means of changing the temperature at will ; and the inter- esting country of the Druzes is but a short distance up the mountains, and Baalbek but forty miles distant. Visits to these places, and to the cedars, form highly interesting excursions, while to the cave of St. George is only a morning walk. The great health- fulness of the climate will be seen from the fact that the natives are a peculiarly robust race, most of them possessing great muscular strength. It is no uncom- 1 m mon thing to see a porter on the Marina, at Beyroot, walk away with a bale of cotton-twist on his shoulders weighing 600 lbs. PRODUCTIONS. The principal productions of Lebanon are wheat, barley, maize, melons, pumpkins, peas, beans, carrots, turnips, potatoes, cucumbers, tobacco, cotton, walnuts, figs, olives, and grapes. Where water is plenty, irrigation is extensively practised, and the crops are luxuriant. The flowers are the tulip, pink, anemone, ranunculus, geranium, crocus, lily, star of Bethlehem, convolvulus, etc. ; all of which are bright and beautiful. THE KENOWNED CEDAES OF LEBANON. The cedar is frequently mentioned in the Bible, and in several passages it is styled the glory of Lelja- non ; and in the 29th Psalm, how grand is the intro- duction of the cedar ! " The voice of the Lord is upon the waters ; the God of glory thundereth ; the voice of the Lord breaketh the cedars of Lebanon." Well might the cedar be called the glory of Lebanon. The mag-nificence of the living; tree, and the beauty, fragrance, and durability of the timber distinguish it among all the trees of the mountain forest. Religion, poetry, and history have equally consecrated them. They furnish a class of images which inspired writers used with especial preference. Its great durability is astonishing, as it has fre- quently been found as sound as when cut, after being in use over two thousand years. According to Pliny, cedar- wood of near two thousand years old was found in the temple of Apollo at Utica. In the times of David and Solomon the cedar was flinch used in the construction of palaces and tem- ples ; consequently, in the aiTaiigement between Iliram of Tyre, and King Solomon, by which the former agreed to furnish the cedar timber for the Temple, there was nothing out of the ordinary course of the business arrangements of that period. On the pai't of King Hii-am it was stipulated that King Sol- omon should furnish a certain number of craftsmen and laborers, who were to work under the more ex- perienced woodcutters of Tyre ; and the payment was to be in provisions, partly for the use of the labor- ers, and partly for the supply of the Tyrian market Nothing could be fitter for the purpose required tlian cedar wood. Its size and straightness, and above all, its durability, were most essential for edi- fices that were designed to last. The beauty of the wood, the high polish of which it was capable, and its fragrance, all recommended it foi- the Temple. The ancient cedar forests of Lebanon were of great extent, and contained a vast amount of timber, but they never recovered from the thinning made by Sol- omon's 80,000 hewers; and they have been dwind- ling away for many centuries, until the words have been literally fulfilled : " Lebanon is ashamed and hewn down ;" '' The high ones of stature sliall be hewn down, and the trees of his forest be few, that a little child may write them." The region of the famous cedars is near the north- ern end of the range, principally around aid be- SrO^^iri^ i #- 1 WWrf^^^M^^^p^ tween the sources of the rivers Kadislia and Nahi el-Kelb. The timber for the Temple of Solomon was procured near the heads of these two streams, the first of which is sixteen miles from the sea, and the second, fourteen. After the trees were cut and hewn, the timber was conveyed down the courses of the rivers (doubtless floated) to their mouths, w^here it was made up into floats and conveyed to Joppa, thence overland to Jerusalem/ At the mouths of both of these rivers are small in- lets or harbors, which made them convenient places for making up the floats and getting them ready for sea ; the mouths of these streams are also historic localities of considerable impoi-tance. The bay at the mouth of the Nahr-el-Kelb is a short distance north of Beyroot, the situation of which will be miderstood by reference to the illustration. In the foreground is the bay, and on the right are the points which jut out into it north-east of Bej^root, The mouth of the river is discovered just beyond the rocky promontory, across tlie bay. On the pro- montory are inscriptions and sculptures engraved by the conquerors of Syria, from Egypt, Assyria, Macedonia and France ; and above, far away in the distant sky, the peaks of Lebanon ai-e seen, whitened with eternal snows. The mouth of the Kadisha is thirty-five miles north of the mouth of the Nahr-el-Kelb, and here is an ancient port, also the ruins of ancient buildings. The town of Tripolis is a short distance up the river. Wliat interesting recollections cluster around this little harbor! Here nearly three tliousand yeai-s ago I 1(1 the craftsmen of King Solomon and Hiram might have been seen busily engaged, making up the frag- rant cedar timber into floats, preparatory to its jour- ney to Jerusalem, where it was to become a part of the chosen house of God. In the forest, fifteen miles above here were many thousands of men at work, clad in their ancient costumes, and using their curi- ous ancient tools ; some felling the trees, othei-s squaring and preparing them for their respective places a]\d uses in the Temple ; others, again, con- veying the timber down the mountain to the sea ; altogether making a scene full of life and replete with interest. Of all the magnificent ancient forests of Lebanon, there now remain only three small groves, and a few scattered trees, and only in one of these are there any of the old cedars. This grove is the one around the source of the river Kadisha, about sixteen miles S.E. by S. from Tripoli. The u]>per part of the valley of the Kadisha is quite broad and flat, and across it extends a row of low, rocky hills, which are only from 60 to 100 feet high, but the whole is 6,500 feet above the level of the sea. On these hills is the grove of cedars, and there are here son:ie 400 trees, but of the original patriarchs of the forest, that were here in the time of Solomon, there remain only about a dozen trees, and the trunks of these have been much injured by travelers cutting their names on them. The largest of these relics measures forty-five feet in circumference ; another, which is nearly three-sided, measures about 12 feet on each side ; others measure from 40 feet down to 20 feet in circumference. So that these giants are more remarkable for girth than stature, as the high- est does not exceed 70 feet. The stately bearing and graceful repose of the younger cedars contrasts singularly with the wild and fiantic attitude of the old ones; these appear as if flinging about their knotty and inuscular limbs like so many Laocoons, while . others lie rotting at their feet. Their tenacity of life is marvellous, and they look as if they had been struggling for existence for thousands of years after they had reached matur- ity. The very air of the cedar impresses the beholder with the idea of its comparative immortality. There is a firmness in the bark and a stability in the trunk, in the mode in which it lays hold of the ground, and in the form of the branches and their insertion intc the trunk, scarcely found in any other tree. The foli- age, too, is superior to that of any other of the forest tribe, each branch being perfect in its form. The points of the leaves spread upwards into little tufts, and the whole upper surface of the branch has the appearance of rich green velvet. The remaining relics of this once noble forest are, certainly, the most celebrated natural monuments in the universe ; and to Masons, among the most highly interesting, as they were living though silent wit- nesses of the preparation by the craftsmen of Solomon of their mates and contemporaries, for supports and adornments of the wonderful Temple on Mount Moriah. Their evergreen boughs, and the imperishable na- ture of the wood, are typical of the imperishable prin- I^^KSgf ciples of the ancient order, and of the immortality of the soul. The natives of Lebanon have a traditional venera- tion for these ancient cedars. They believe that an evil fate will surely overtake any one who shall dare to lay sacrilegious hands on these " saints," as they fondly call them. Every year at the feast of the trans- figuration, the Maronites, Greeks and Armenians mount to the cedars, and celebrate mass on a rude altar of stone at their feet. How many prayers have re- sounded under their branches ! and what more sub- lime temple, what altar nearer the heavens ! What fane more majestic and holy, than this lofty level of Lebanon, the trunks of those primeval cedars, and the canopy of those sacred branches, which have shaded, and still shade so many human generations, pronounc- ing the name of God in different languages, but recognizing him everywhere in his works, and ador- ing- him in the manifestation of his creation ! Kums. The ruins of ancient templet have been discovered in various parts of Lebanon ; some of them high up the mountain, where it must have been very difficult to build ; all exhibiting a style of architecture simi- lar to the remarkable structures of Baalbek. The ruins of one of these temples are visible from Bey- root. It was built of immense hewn stone, without cement, and with large columns in front. It is now little more than a heap of ruins. Among the heights of Lebanon, near Lake Limon, are the ruins of another ancient temple. They are in the centre of an area ,q5l !i fe«) i. forming a square of about 80 paces across, bounded bj' a massive wall of well-hewn stones, laid without mortar. From this extreme boundary, through which a large ruined gate-way gives admission, the ground everywhere rises by a regular ascent to a mass of fallen ruins, resting on a basement elevated by three steps above the adjacent soil. These ruins exhibit fi-agments of Doric columns, pieces of entablature, and many other parts of large columns, and stones thrown together in a confused heap, apparently by the shock of an earthquake. These are evidently the remains of a very ancient edifice. The portico had faced the entrance, and a wide flight of stairs, connecting the entrance with the temple, was half- buried beneath the shattered architraves and broken columns. Every part had been massive ; the cella had consisted of five or six columns on each side, and of large diameter ; the whole completely over- thrown. But from the scattered fragments every- where visible, the plan of this ancient structure may be very accurately made out. TOWIf AND CASTLE OF TKIPOLIS. Tripolis is situated a short distance above the mouth of the river Kadisha, and 35 miles N. E. of Beyroot. It was down the course of this river that much of the timber for Solomon's Temple was brought, and in the little port at its mouth it was made up into floats to be conveyed to Joppa. Tripolis consisted originally, as its name imports, of three towns, formed severally by colonies, from Tyre, Sidon, and Aradus, which ultimately coalesced into one. It is situated about a .»i?3^^^^ Tripolis. JC?^'^. .■^'^-' Aiab Dance. — Tripolis. rtic ' mile and a half from the shore of the Mediterranean, on one of the lowest spurs of Lebanon, and is sur- rounded by an old fortress built by Raymond de Toulouse, which commands the town and environs. This place retains many marks of the age of the Crusaders ; among them sevei-al high arcades of Gothic architecture, under which the streets run. The houses are white and generally well built ; and the whole place has a' light and clean appearance. The river Kadisha flows through Tripolis, and is the life of the town. Tlie Wady Kadisha, higher up than Tripolis, is one of the most picturesque valleys in the world. It is crossed a short distance above the town by an aqueduct built on arches, and on one of the arches is a Latin cross carved in relief, which in- dicates that the aqueduct was constructed by the Counts of Tripolis in the times of the Crusaders. This aqueduct is 130 paces long and a little over 7 feet wide. The fall being considerable, the water flows as rapidly as through a sluice-way, so that it may well be imagined that even a pedestrian feels con- siderable trepidation at crossing it, as it has to be done along the narrow, unguarded ledge not occupied by the waters ; yet it is related that in 1802, a Mar- onite, belonging to one of the chief families of Le- banon, being hotly pursued by the soldiers of the governor of Tripolis, galloped his horse across this aqueduct at full speed. Raymond de Agile, one of the oldest chroniclers, speaking of a battle fought here between the Crusa- ders and the Saracens, says coolly that " it was a delectable thing to see the little stream of the aque- m 186 duct carrying into the city the mangled bodies of both nobles, and men of the commoner sorts." The road leading from Tripolis to the mountains affords an admirable view. It winds along the banks of the river, enclosed between hills, and overshadowed by beautiful trees, and orange groves. A kiosk or cafe, built beneath these trees, offers its perfumed terrace to promenaders, who" resort thither to drink coffee, smoke, and enjoy the fragrance of the air wafted from above the stream. From this spot a fine view is had of the sea, the numerous vessels in the roads, and the picturesque Syrian towers along the coast. i! THE SINGULAR PALACE OF BTEDDIN. This unique oriental palace is about half-way be- tween Beyroot and Seyde, and stands on a bold spur of the mountains. It was built by the Emir Beshir, whose sway, previous to the war, extended over nearly all of Lebanon. This palace is of great extent, and of various and singular shapes, and elevations, form- ing long, wide terraces, clustei-s of cupolas, square towers, spreading out their tops into overhanging battlement, and galleries piled on galleries, present- ino; Ions: ranojes of slender columns and arcades. The broad courts descend like immense flights of stairs- from the highest platform to the outer wall of the for- tifications. In former times the large marble staircase leading to the harem, and the gorgeous portal, were thronged with black slaves, magnificently dressed, and bristling with splendid arms. The vast court- Palace of Bteddin, Mouth of the Nahr-el-Kelb. 189 yards <.)f tlie palace were crowded with domestics, re- tainers, priests, aud soldiers, in all the various and picturesque costumes of the different peoples of Le- banon. Five or six hundred horses, covered with brilliant housings of every color, were tied to ropes stretched across the court. Groups of camels were standing, lying down, or kneeling to be loaded or un- loaded ; and on the highest terrace of the inner court young pages might be seen pursuing each other on horseback, and Hinging the jreed or bent low on the saddle to avoid the blow ; then wheeling around, they galloped at full speed at their disarmed antagonist, and went through all the rapid evolutions of their warlike o-ame, with admirable o-race and address :al- together presenting a scene of oriental and barbaric life and splendor. THE INHABITANTS OF LEBANON THEIR MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. As the wonderful topogra})hy of Lebanon, its famous and almost sacred cedars, its singular history combine to render the subject both interesting and edifying, a description of its inhabitants will not be found uninteresting in this connection. The inhabitants of Lebanon are divided into three distinct sects, viz. : Maronites, Drnzes, and Metualis. The Maronites inhabit that part of Lebanon to the north of the river Nahr-el-Kelb, including Kesrouan and Bsherray, they are also found in cities and lai'ge towns as far north as Aleppo, and as far south as Nazareth; but as cultivators of the soil thej' are at home only in Lebanon. They number nearly 200,000. SCd i \Wi W 100 The Druses occupy the country from the river Dar- monr, between Beyroot and Seyde, as far as the lati- tude of the mouth of the Kadisha, in towns and viHages solely belonging to them, or which they share with Greeks, Mai-onites, and Armenians. They num- ber about 80,000. The Metuali villages are in the south part of Lebanon, towards the Cape of Sarfend, or Sarepta. There are also nearly a thousand families of them in Baalbek and vicinity. They number 40,000. The Mai'onites derive their name from Marroun, a hermit, who flourished in the odor of sanctity in the fifth century. In A. D. 681, his followers were condemned by the general council of Constantinople, as holding the monotheistic heresy ; and being driven from the greater part of Syria, they took refuge on the mountains of Lebanon. For several centuries after this Lebanon continued to be an asylum from religious persecutions of every cast, and in this way pagans and Christians amalgamated for many ages, and were governed even by a single head. The Maronites, although they adhered to the Latin Church, still remained under the authority of their own Patriarchs ; and in the events which followed the Crusades, their attachment to the Church of Rome became much diminished ; but they were won back by able negotiations in the year 14-03 ; and in 1405 they renewed their recognition of the supremacy of the Pope, since which time they have prided themselves on their fidelity to the Holy See. Mass is celebrated in Syriac, although but few of them un- derstand it. The communion is administered in Horsemen. — Lebanon. Peasants. — Lebanon. of i Jr both kinds. The host is a small round loaf of the thickness of a finger, and about the size of a crown piece. On the top of it is the impression of a seal, which is eaten by the priest, who cuts the remainder into small pieces, and, putting it into the wine in the cup, administers it to each person with a spoon. Celibacy is not strictly imposed on the Maronite priests, who may be ordained though married, but cannot marry a second time if the first wife die. The Patriarch is elected by the bishops, subject to the approval of the Pope. The Patriarch's authority is unlimited; and all the Christians of the mountains pay him great respect and deference. He has but to speak to be obeyed implicitly. The influence of the bishop is- also very great — so much so that the Turkish authorities are careful not to offend them, knowing that a word from their lips would be enough to raise the whole population. The bishops and clergy are held in such awe and respect that whoever approaches them is expected to kiss their hands, which they never fail to present ; and they are displeased if Europeans withhold this mark of reverence. The simple man ners prevailing among this people are doubtless attributable to the potent influence of the clergy. Retribution speedily follows every offence, however slight, and the clergy are rigorous in preventing dis- order or scandal among the members of their flocks. Befoi-e a young man can marry he must get the con- sent of both his pastor and his bishop. If they dis- prove of the marriage they prohibit it, and the Maron ite has no remedy. If an unmarried girl becomes a mother, her seducer is compelled to marry her ; if he Vt3'75> ==^^; m i i s^ i:«i^Kir 194 refuse, he is forced to comply by measures of severity — imprisonment and bastinadoing. The influence of the clergy extends to every detail of domestic life, and they have at their command a fearful word of execration — a vt^ord that excites unbounded horror whenever uttered. This word applied to an indi- vidual would instantly bar every door against him ; as no one would have any communication with, or sell, or give anytliing to one accursed Wee him — this word of such terrible import \%—frainassoon {free- 7naso7i). A Maronite believes in his heart that a freemason is a horrible being, whose soul is doomed to irretrievable perdition, that he has constant deal- ings with Satan, and that he is endowed with a thous- and infernal qualities, that he possesses atrocious means of making mischief, of casting malignant spells, inflicting disease on the faithful, making them give way to temptation, and dragging them down with himself to the bottomless pit. Among the Maronites there are, besides the clergy, two general classes, the Sheikhs and the common peo- ple ; the Sheikhs derive their superiority from the an- tiquity of their families, and from their wealth; but all the different classes are husbandmen, as every man cultivates with his own hands the little domain he owns or farms. In this respect the Sheikhs live in the same manner as the common people, and are only distinguished from them by the possession of a good horse, and a display of better wearing apparel ; also some advantage in houses and food. Property is as secure here as in Europe, and the traveller may journey through these mountains with perfect safety. 195 and always be hospitably received. Keading, writ- ing, arithmetic and the catechism are taught among them, yet their ignorance on other subjects and of the outsjjde world is really curious. A French traveller was asked by a Maronite, *' had they a moon in his country?" and a lady travelling here excited such curiosity among her sex,that they laid violent hands on her that they might satisfy themselves whether the women of Europe and those of Lebanon were of the same species. THE DEUZES, Although not so numerous as the Maronites, are the most courageous and warlike people in Lebanon. Everything belonging to this singular people is cal- culated to excite curiosity and interest : their man- ners and customs, their bravery, their stability of character, and, above all, the mystery that has so long hung over their moral history; for even at this day but little is known of the Druzes' doctrines and their religious rites and ceremonies, as they are kept secret. The founder of the Druze religion was the Caliph Hakim Bi-Amar-Alah, the third of the Fatemites, who became Caliph of Cairo in the j^ear of. the II e- gira 386. His reign was distinguished by great ex- travagances; he forbade women even to go out of doors, and forbade shoemakers making any kind of foot-gear for their use, on pain of death ; all neces- sary supplies were to be conveyed to them through loop-holes in the walls, by means of long poles, so that none might see them. Not contented with such follies, he styled himself God, and the founder of a 196 new religion, which was to supersede that of Mohain* med ; but after an execrable reign of twenty-four years he was murdered by his minister, Hamiz ; and the succeeding Caliph persecuted those who believed in his divine character, when many of the sect fled to Syria, and there propagated their doctrines anew. Each Druze family religiously preserves, and trans- mits from father to son, what is called the purse of faith. This is a small sum of money, carefully sealed up in a small black bag, which is to serve as a token of recognition on the transmigration of the soul of the head of the family into another body. Should a Druze return to life after several successive transmi- grations, he could make himself known as a true be- liever by means of the purse of faith. When the father dies, the son, selected by the father (usually the eldest), succeeds to the sacred purse, which he is forbidden to open, even in his most urgent need. During a revolt, some years since, a few of these purses were found, that had been thus sealed up in parch- ment for hundreds of years, without ever having been opened. The other children of the deceased father receive each a small black stone of jet or agate, in token of hope, union, and recognition. There is an order among the Druzes, the members of which have signs and tohens for Dm iil recogni- tion, which are analogous to those used a,... free- masons. The initiated everywhere recognize each other ; \vlien tv/o Druzes meet, and discover, by certain signs, that they are both Akals, they proceed to inter- rogate as follows : — One of them inquires : "Dost thou know, in thy country, a plant of peGuliar excellence above all others f"* "Yes," is the reply: "it is the alilege." "Where does this marvellous plant grow?" " In the hearts of the faithful Druzes, who believe in the unity of the God Hakim Bi-Amar." Although they have now recognized each other as belonging to the initiated, the proof is not yet complete, so they next grasp each other'' s hands, the one giving the left hand, and the other the right, and then whisper the W2ixne?> oi the five prophets, or Itedouhs ; also three other mystic words, intelligible only to those who have reached these degrees of the Akals. The in- quiry and recognition are now complete, and they salute each other, laying their hands on their hearts. Among no other people is there to be found so strong a faith in amulets (itedjabs) as among the Druzes.* They possess a great number of them ; and such implicit confidence do they repose in the virtue of their talismans, that when armed with an itedjab, even in the most desperate engagements, their courage is often exalted to an indescribable degree. The wealthiest among them wear signet rings, called Katem Suleyman, believed to have been enchanted by virtue of the name of Solomon. These rings are usually of silver, on one surface of which is inscribed stars and cdbalistic figures. In addition to the portion of Lebanon occupied by the Druzes, the}'' have about seventy villages in Anti-Lebanon, and their capitals are Ammatour and Bachlin, in Lebanon, and Ilasbeya and Kasheya, in Anti-Lebanon. Each of these places is a rallying point for the nation, and possesses a religious edifice * Sylvester De Sacy. Religion des Druses. 198 (Khalueh) in which are deposited their sacred books and their war standards. The Druzes, like the other races of Syria, are distinguished by a peculiar cast of features ; the natives of the country recognize a Maronite, a Druze, or a Metuali at a glance, Tlie physiognomy of the Druze is noble, grand, and sometimes even tinctured with ferocity. The men are well made, active, musciilar, and possessed of extraordinary powers of endurance. To this is added the most dauntless intrepidity. The women, of whom they are very jealous, are taller in pro]>ortion than the men, with fine figures and clear, rosy-white com- plexions, luxuriant raven hair, and eyes of clearest blue. The character of the Druze is quite contradic- tory. Yindictive, sanguinary and haughty by nature, tliey conceal these traits under an exquisite suavity of demeanor, and fully compensate for these traits by their unbounded hospitality, genei-osity, and lofti- ness of soul. Their code of morals is extremely rigid, and the greatest good faith prevails in their mutual dealings ; their word once passed becomes a sacred oath, as binding as the most solemn contract. Points of honor are strictly insisted on by them, and the least insult is instantly avenged with the khanjai', or rifle ; M'hereas among the people of the plains an insult or slight only provokes abusive retort. Though the Druzes inhabit many villages in com- mon with the Christians, yet they have but little intercourse with them ; never marrying with them, and holding them in sovereign contempt. The Druzes so despise Europeans that the worst insult one can put on another is the exclamation, " Ma}' God SI r/ ja X^j ¥ii >ir 4^/; >RK'I put a hat on you!" Still their hospitality is extended to all, and the traveler who presents himself at their doors is sure of being entertained with food and lodg- ing in the most generous manner; and when they have once partaken of bread and salt with their guests, no subsequent event can induce them to violate their hospitality. Many instances in point are related. ToM^ards the close of the eighteenth century, an Aga of the Janisaries having been engaged in rebellion fled from Damascus and retired among the Druzes. The Pasha demanded him of the Emir, threatening war on him in case, of refusal. The Emir demanded him of the Sheikh wlio had received him, who in- dignantly replied : " AVTien have you known the Druze to deliver up or betray his guest? Tell the Emir that as long as I shall possess my beard, not a hair of the head of my guest shall fall." Although the Maronites are far more numerous than the Druzes, yet the latter being so brave and warlike a people, are more than a match for tiie former ; consequently, the moral influence the Druzes exercise over the other mountaineers is almost in- credible. When war is resolved on, every man, whether Sheikh or peasant, able to bear arms, is called upon to march. He takes with him a yataghan, musket, some powder made in his native village, and his commissary department, which consists of a small bag of flour, and some blankets, and repairs to the rendezvous. If it be a civil war, each clan rallies around the standard of its chief ; and when engaged with the enemy, each man fights with desperate 'tr il' 6=-^' ^.-t m, valor, and never thinks of retreating nnless over- wliehiied with numberSj or so completely defeated as to leave no possible chance of retrieving the disaster. The father bequeaths his opinions and his party to his son ; and there is hardly an example of a Druze, or a Maronite espousing a quarrel, or adopting a party, other than that of his ancesters. The gather- ing of the clans for war is described by an eye witness as being something marvellous. Cries went up at night to the summits of the cliffs, and thence over the country, " To war ! to war ! take your guns, take your pistols, arm yourselves with the lance and yataghan : rendezvous at Deir-el-Kammar. Zeal of God, zeal of combats." These cries, from the still- ness of the night and their long resounding ech(^es, had something awful in their effect ; and, as if by magic, an army was immediately assembled at the appointed place. In regard to matrimony the Druzes are very ex- clusive, as their clannishness renders them averse to forming such alliances outside of their own people. They invariably prefer their own relations, though poor, to the wealthy stranger ; and indigent peasants frequently refuse their daughters to the rich merchants of the large towns. The Druze takes but one wife. The young men usually marry at the age of 18, and the girls at 14. Three days before that fixed for a marriage, the bridegroom, accompanied by some young men of his own age, all well armed, proceed to formally demand the bride of her father, who awaits the party armed cap-a-pie, on the threshhold of his door ; and there \U^2i i>i ^^ -^-"iij^ 1 1 >\ IP ^. f gives his final sanction to the contract. The young men fix the dowry (maahr) to be settled by the bridegroom on his intended, and he promises her family that he will make her happy. The betrothed girl appears, but closely veiled, and accompanied by her mother, and other female relatives, when the mother guarantees the unblemished honor of her cliild. Upon this the young man pops the question to the fair one himself, who replies, — " ueUe tak " (I accept you), at the same time presenting him with a khan jar sewed up in a red and white kefileh, usually of wool, and wrought with her own hands. The Khanjar is a token of the protection she expects from her husband; but it is likewise an instru- ment destined to expiate her guilt if she has trifled with her maiden honor, violates her marriage vow, — ■ or even fails in her duty as an obedient and duteous wife. All parties then enter the house; and the bride proceeds to the bath, where she spends the day with her companions ; while the men mount their horses and amuse themselves with their favorite games Of remain smoking and drinking in the house. This ceremony is twice repeated. On the night of the wedding, the women conduct the bridegroom to the nuptial chamber where the bride awaits him, covered from head to foot with a red veil spangled with gold; the bridegroom removes this, upon which the women run out of the room screaming and gabbling at the top of their voices, — this is the signal for a great uproar throughout the house, which is kept up for several hours, the men assisting in the din by performing the dance of arms, capering about, and 'i putting themselves in all sorts of wild and ludicrous attitudes, clashing their sabres and yataghans together, and feigning to be in a towering passion. All this noise and confusion is made to drive away the djins and other evil spirits which are believed to be very busy about the house on such occasions. Although the marriage ceremony occupies from two to three days, yet it requires but an instant to dissolve the contract, as every Druze possesses absolute power to repudiate his wife on paying the dowry stipulated when he takes her, and the only divorce necessary is for the husband to oj)en his door and say to her " go." Even if a wife asks permission of her husband to visit her relatives, and it is given without requesting her to return, it is considered tantamount to a di- vorce. Yet notwithstanding this facility, divorces are very rare, and seldom occur without grave reasons. The woman who is convicted of conjugal infidelity is punished with death, — not by her hus- band, for he only returns her to her relatives with the khanjar he received from her when they were married, but by her relatives themselves : for her guilt reflects shame on them, for the Druze holds that dishonor follows the line of blood, and does not devolve on a man or family of the other blood. The khanjar sent back to the family of the wife without its sheath is a significant hint to theni of their dis- grace, and its dire consequences to their daughter. On receiving the khanjar, the father and brother of the guilty wife repair to the house of the husband to investigate the case, when if proofs be wanting the husband's oath is held snfiicient. The relatives then 203 return home and put the unhappy woman to death ; then, as a proof to the husband that justice has had its course, a lock of the woman's hair dyed in her blood, is sent him. THE METUALIS. The Metualis are followers of Ali, and belong to the same great division of Islamism as the Persians and Shiites, yet there is something very peculiar in the tenets vvliich distinguish them from all other Mohammedans. They recognize twelve Imans as founders of their religion, the first of whom is Ali, and the rest his descendants to the eleventh genera- tion. These Imans they call the twelve doctors of the universe. All the Metualis look forward to the speedy coming of Mouhdi (guide) of the race of Ali. This Monlidi or Messiah will rule over the whole world, and put all who have denied him to a fearful death. Another Messiah they expect is Mohammed- el-Mehady, who suddenly disappeared from the earth after giving battle to the Caliph of Babylon, near Kabela. Magnificent horses are always kept ready, saddled, and caparisoned by the Metualis of Irak, in expectation of his return ; and no one is ever allowed to mount these steeds, as they are held in high veneration by this sect. Some of the Metuali families were formerly of princely rank, and deeds of great daring and ferocity are related of some of their emirs and chiefs. Emir Can jar, the head of an ancient family near Baalbek, underwent the indignity of being conscripted in 1834, and enrolled in the Egyptian army like a common Ss?^ m m m VI I peasant, but he soon deserted and returned home, where lie quietly remained until after 1840, when a favorable opportunity presented itself of avenging the great indignity put upon him. He, at the head of a band of horsemen of his clan, joined the Maronites, who had revolted, and were then en- camped before Beyroot. His attacks were so fierce, and his blows so well directed against the enemy, that his name soon became famous throughout Lebanon, for courage, strategy, and great bodily strength, and the great injur}' he did the Egyptian army, fully justified this reputation. He cut off numerous convoys of provisions and other military supplies, and for a long time blockaded the road to Damascus. When the allied fleet appeared before Beyroot, he applied for arms, which he distributed among his followers, and then played an imj^ortant part in the events that led to the expulsion of Ibrahim Pasha from Syria. The famous Metuali chief, Hussein-el-Shibib, i-en- dered himself notorious by unparalleled acts of daring and ferocity as a highway robber, having been exasperated beyond measure by Egyptian violence and tyranny. For over four months he infested the route between Acre and Beyroot, killing all he could capture. His retreat was the ruined fortress of Medjel Ziwouin, situated on an almost inaccessible escarpment, about seven miles from Sour. There perched like a hawk on the lookout for prey, he waited the appearance of travelers on the road, and when any appeared, he pounced upon them at a place called White Cape, near Nakoura. Once hemmed in within that narrow pass the victim conld not escape, as the road was a mere ledge on the perpendicular face of a rocky wall, with the sea dashing against it more than two hundred feet below. Here he put them to every species of torture that savage ingenuity could invent, and then pitched their mangled bodies down into the sea, and their beasts after them. Twice were detachments of Egyptian soldiers sent in pursuit of him, but when they had reached the perilous delile they were met by a shower of balls, ^dlich fell upon them like hail from the clouds, whilst they themselves were unable to use their arms to any advantage against their invisible assailants. After many acts of daring and ferocity, and after having twice made his way, single-handed, into the midst of his enemies' camp by night, and cut the throats of several soldiers, this bold brigand was compelled to seek safety in flight, as a hea^y price was put upon his head. He lied to the Hauran, intending to take refuge in the Ledja, that secure asylum of outlaws ; and had nearl}' reached the place when he was im- })rudent enough to demand hospitality of the Sheikh of a village. The temptation of the promised reward, and the desire of getting the large sums Hussein was known to carry with him, were too strong for the Sheikh's sense of the duties of hospitality, con- sequently, in the middle of the night, Hussein found himself surrounded by Bedouins, disarmed, bound hand and foot, in spite of his frantic resistance, and carried to Damascus, where, after he had been bas- tinadoed without mercy, by order of Sherif Pasha, he was taken to the gate of the Medan, where his head M i^ 2::::l._jjb2J22«sMi23 206 was, cut off. A tlionsand similar examples might be adduced in evidence of the sanguinary character of tlie Metualis ; dull, quiet, and servile in appearance, but when goaded by a sense of wrong or insult, they display the ferocity of the tiger. The Metualis have a horrible custom, tolerated by their laws. In case of urgent necessity the father is allowed to expose his children for sale in the slave market ; and instances are not rare in which this in- human privilege has been exercised. After the Syrian campaign, when the Egyptian government exacted all arrears of taxes with great rigor, many girls from twelve to fifteen years af age were sold by poor Metualis. Nineteen were thus sold at one time at prices varying from TOO to 900 piasters, but the father has the right to redeem his children at any time by paying back the purchase mone}^ HOUSES IN LEBAJION. The better class of dwellings are of a quadrangular form, built around a court-yard, to which admission is gained from the street by an arched doorway and a low, dark passage. The latter usually has two turnings, so that no prying eyes may look through the open door into the mysteries of domestic life within. In the centre of the court a jet of water falls back bubbling into a marble basin. The rooms in the upper story of the house constitute the harem or private apartments of the family ; those on the ground are often without any external opening to admit the light, and are used only as store-rooms and domestic offices. In the houses of the wealthy there 'i:2il_NI luteiior of a House. — Lebanon. Khan or Hotel. Kf/i 'yX: "{ M M m M are reception rooms for the male guests in the base- ment story. The next best class of dwellings is the flat or ter raced roof ; there the women and children pass the day and frequently the night also. These houses are commonly divided into three apartments: one for the family, one for the servants, and one for the animals; but the largest class of dwellings are the low, square habitations occupied by the common peo- ple. These are mostly built of rough, square blocks of stone, one story, and with a flat roof. The interior consists of two nearly equal divisions; the front being occupied by horses, cows, asses, and other ani- mals, while the rear apartment, which is elevated a few feet, is occupied by the human inhabitants. There is no partition between the front and rear rooms. The floor of the rear apartment consists of earth trodden hard, and covered with mats or cheap carpets, according to the ability of the owner. There is a fire-place in the corner with a sloping flue, and the room is usually lighted by pieces of burning pine wood supported by irons driven into the wall. The sleeping arrangements are very primitive, being only a few mats spread down inside of the room ; and when the family has guests they occupy the other side of the floor, furnishing their own mats or blankets, and where the family is large or the guests numerous the inside sleepers are necessarily brought into close proximity to each other. KHAN OK HOTEL. The Khan differs but little from the private dweil m. M m 210 Ing, except that the walls are higher, the interior being divided into three apartments, all on the ground. The largest apartment is used for the animals, the middle is the servants' quarters, and the rear one the quarters of the guests ; of the three divisions, the stable is frequently the most comfortable. These hotels are conducted on the, most democratic plan known to civilization, far ahead of the European j)lan in this respect. The guest has the privilege of fur- nishing his own provisions, building his own fire and cooking his meals, and when it is time to retire he spreads his own blankets and sleeps upon them ; the compensation, or hotel bill is for these privileges. Sometimes the landlord has coffee and a few other articles of food which he will cook and serve for his guests if required ; but as his culinary apparatus has not the appearance of being so scrupulously clean as to tempt the traveler to try his viands, the latter usu- ally prefers to cook his own meals. The scene at a khan when there is but one guest, or one party, is tranquillity itself, compared with the meeting of several different parties at a hotel the same night. First, in the animals' apartment, each horse and. ass appear to evince all the clannishness of its masters, consequently each one of them guards its rights with jealous care, and fiercely repels with heels and teeth any tres^^ass on its space or forage, while in the apartment of the guests the scene is no less lively and unique. Half-a-dozen hungry travelers trying to cook their meals over the one small, smoky fire, and frequently wrangling in dif- ferent tongues for precedence or room ; but to cap 211 the climax it is only necessary that a belated traveler arrive after the otliers are all asleep ; his arrival will first be announced by the frantic yelps of the dogs, who act as advance pickets of the camp, next the asses begin to bray, and the horses to neigh, which wakes up their masters who rush out, arms in hand, ready to defend themselves against the imaginary enemy ; altogether creating a scene, both wild and ludicrous in the extreme. COSTUMES. In point of costume there is but little difference throughout Lebanon. The dress of the male Druzes consists of a coarse woollen frock, which reaches to the knees. This garment is black with white stripes, and is without sleeves. The trousers are of the same stuff, baggy, gathered in below the knees, and falling in folds halfway down the leg. The undergarment is a long tunic (kombaz) of linen, with sleeves reach- ing to the wrists. A sash of white or red cotton, or silk with fringed ends, tied around the waist, sup- ports a powder-flask, a brace of pistols, and a long dirk ; a musket and a cartridge-box are slung over the shoulders. A broad turban, flat on the top, swells out from the head, shading their bronzed vis- ages, and coal-black eyes, adding much to the pe- culiar grandeur, and wild energy of their features. This is the uniform costume of the Druzes, except the emirs and the aJcalsor initiated \ the former dress like Turks of rank ; the costume of the latter is simi- lar to that of the uninitiated, except that their colore are white or black, and they carry no weapons. wi ;h m The dresses of the Maronites are more gay, being of various forms and every color, except the forbid- den ereen, the sacred color of the Moslems. Around the waist they wear a crimson or yellow sash, which sustains a small arsenal of silver-mounted khanjars, yataghans and pistols. The usual apparel of the women consists of an outer pelisse, generally blue, and fringed with silk cord ; it is open in front, and has sleeves to the el- bow ; under this is another robe with sleeves open to the wrist. A shawl around the waist, long and full trousers, and yellow slip])ers complete the cos- tume. But the most remarkable peculiarity in the dress of the women is the immense silver earrings hanging forward on the neck. The head-dress of the girls is very becoming, and they wear their veils witli as much grace and effect as a Spanish belle does her mantilla. FUENITUBE, COOKING UTENSILS AND FOOD. The furniture required by a common family is very limited in variety, and« primitive in style. A cheap carpet, a mattress, a few blankets, some dishes, and plates, one or two platters, a small wooden box for salt, another for pepper, a small leathern bag or bottle for oil and melted butter, a few pipes, a stone mortar for pounding coffee, and a churn ; this latter article can justly lay claim to great simplicity of construction, and great antiquity. It is formed of a goat skin peeled off as nigh whole as possible, and the openings all Eewed up but an aperture at the breech, which is the mouth of the churn. Wlien in use it is suspended Pipe and Box. Khanjars. CofEee Mill. Grinding Com. or rHc ^^\ /' ^'"oF THE UNIVERSITY PASS OF THE JORDAN. fr(;m a sketch recently made on the spot 218 \k PA88 OF THE JORDAN. Tlie difficulties in the way of determining the place where the army of Jephtha held the ford of the Jordan againt the Ephraimites, disappear on an ex- amination of the topography of the country on each bank of the river. Its tributaries on the east and west side, all run between ranges of rocky hills, the ravines all running south-east or south-west, towards the river. At the junction of the Wady Ferah with the Jordan, a sand- ba.'- has been formed, which constitutes this ford or pass. The travel between two important cities — Shechem on the west side of the river, and liamoth Gilead on the east, was over a main highway, which leads to the river at this ford. This is also the most reliable ford between tlie Sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea, especially after a rain, when the other fords are sni-e to be impassable, this one, from the great width of the river at this place, is practicable ; this, with the historical and traditional evidence, leaves no room to doubt that this is the pass at which the guards were stationed to intercept the Ephraimites. BATTLE WITH THE EPHRAIMITES. " And the men of Ephraim gathered themselves to- gether, and went northward, and said unto Jephthah, Wherefore passedest thou over to fight against the children of Amnion, and didst not call us to go with thee ? we will burn thine house upon thee with lire. And Jephthah said unto them, I and my people were at great strife with the children of Ammon ; and Fold Out '•7l' 218 PASS OF THE JOKDAU. The difficulties in the way of determining the place where the army of Jephtha held the ford of the Jordan againt the Ephraimites, disappear on an ex- amination of the topography of the country on each bank of the river. Its tributaries on the east and west side, all run between ranges of rocky hills, the ravines all running south-east or south-west, towards the river. At the junction of the Wady Ferah with the Jordan, a sand- bar -has been formed, which constitutes this foi-d or pass. The travel between two important cities — Shechem on the west side of the river, and Kamoth Gilead on the east, was over a main highway, wliicli leads to the river at this ford. This is also the most reliable ford between the Sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea, especially after a rain, when the other fords are sui-e to be impassable, this one, from the great width of the river at this place, is practicable ; this, with the historical and traditional evidence, leaves no room to doubt that this is the pass at which the guards weie stationed to intercept the Ephi-ainiites. BATTLE WITH THE EPHKAIMITEg. " And the men of Ephraim gathered themselves to- gether, and went northward, and said unto Jephthah, Wherefore passedest thou over to fight against the children of Amnion, and didst not call us to go with thee ? we will burn thine house upon thee with fire. And Jephthah said unto them, I and my people were at great strife with the children of Ammon ; and ■'//AN i'fft ' w Si .'If .'/\\ . -^ HI M m & when I called yo\\, ye delivered me not out of their hands. And when 1 saw that ye delivered 'iiif- not, I put my life in my hands, and passed over against the children of Ammon, and the Lord delivered them into my hand : wherefore then are ye come up unto me this day, to fight against me ? Then Jephthah gathered together all the men of Gilead, and fought with Epln-aim : and the men of Gilead smote Ephraim, because they said. Ye Gilead- ites are fugitives of Ephraim among the Ephi-aimites, and among the Manassites. And the Gileadites took the passages of Jordan before the Ephraimites: and it was so, that when those Ephraimites which were escaped said. Let me go over; that the men of Gilead said unto him, Art thou an Ephraimite ? If he said, Nay ; Then said they unto him. Say now Sliibboleth : and he said Sibboleth: for he could not frame "to pro- nounce it right, Tlien they took him, and slew him at the passages of Jordan : and there fell at that time of the Ephraimites forty and two thousand. And Jephthah judged Israel six years. Then died Jephthah the Gileadite, and was buried in one q/'the cities of Gilead." (Judges xii. 1 to 8.) jephtha's daughter. " Then the Spirit of the Lord came upon Jephthah, and he passed over Gilead, and Manasseh, and passed over Mizpeh of Gilead, and from Mizpeli of Gilead he passed over unto the children of Ammon. And Jephthah vowed a vow unto the Loid, and ii said, If thou shalt without fail deliver the children of Aniinon into mine hands, Then it shall be, that whatsoever cometh forth of tlie doors of my house to meet me, when I return in j)oace fi'om the children of Ammon, shall surely be the Lord's, and I will offer it up for a burnt offering. So Jephthah passed over unto the children of Am- mon to fight against them ; and the TiOrd delivered them into his hands. And he smote then fi'om Aroer, even till thou come to Mmnith, even twenty cities, and unto tlie plain of the vineyards, with a very great slaughter. Thus the children of Ammon were subdued before the children of Israel. And Jephthah came to Mizpeh unto his house, and, behold his daughter came out to meet him with timbrels and with dances : and she was Ids only child ; beside her he liad neither son nor daughter. And it came to pass, when he saw her, that he rent his clothes, and said, Alas^ my daughter ! thou hast brought me very low, and thou art one of them that trouble me : for I have opened my mouth unto the Lord, and I cannot go back. And she said unto him, My father, if thou hast opened thy mouth unto the Lord, do to me according to that which hath proceeded out of thy mouth ; for- asmuch as the Lord hath taken vengeance for thee of thine enemies, even of the children of Ammon. And she said unto her father. Let this thing be done for me : let me alone two months, that I may go np and down upon the mountains, and bewail my virginity, I and my fellows. Ml i. i mi w, K 223 And he said, Go. And he sent her away^br two inontlis : and she went with her companions, and be- wailed her virginity npon the mountains. And it came to pass at the end of two months, that she returned imto her father, who did with her accord- ing to his vow which he had vowed : and she knew no man. And it was a custom in Israel, That the daughters of Israel went yearly to lament the daughter of Jephthah the Gileadite four days in a year." (Judges xi, 29 to 40.) JOPPA is on the coast, and 35 miles n.w. of Jerusalem. In the distribution of the land by Joshua it was given to Dan, and has been known to history ever since.* The city is situated on a promontory which rises to the higlit of 150 feet, is crowned M'ith a fortress, and presents views of historic interest in every direction. Towards the north Sharon and Oarmei are seen. To the south the plains of Philistia. To the east the hills of Ephraim and Judea raise their towering heads, and to the west is extended the Mediterranean. The city is walled around on the south and east towards the land, and partially so on the north side, towards the sea. The site is very steep, so that, viewed from sevei'al points, the buildings have the appearance of standing on one another. The present population of the city is 15,000. With the exception of Csesarea, this was the only harbor possessed by the ancient Jews, and was then, as it is now, the seaport of Je- rusalem The harbor is formed by a low ledge of * About 1443 B.C. it P 'V % % K\ 224 rocks which extend from the promontory into tlie sea, and is shoal and insecure. The cedar timber from Lebanon and materials from Tyre for Solomon's Temple Avere landed here, and with the insecurity of the harbor and the hight of the cliffs where they were landed, the undertaking must have been both hazardous and laborious. HEBPwON. ITS SINGULAR MOSQUE AND QIPOETANT RELICS OF ANTIQUITY ITS FANATICAL PEOPLE. Hebron is 16 miles s.s.e. of Jerusalem, and is beauti- fully situated among the mountains, in a valley run- ning from north to south. Hebron is one of the very oldest cities in the world still existing — being a well- known town when Abraham entered Canaan, 3783 years ago. Its original nam^ was Kiijath Arba, and was sometimes called Mamre. This cit}' was the favor- ite residence of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, and the Bcene of some of the most striking events in their lives. Upon the death of his wife, Sarah, Abraham l)ought from Ephron the Ilittite the field and cave of Machpelah, to serve as a family tomb. Hebron was taken by Joshua from the Canaanites, and was afterwards assig-ned to the Levitcs and made a city of refuge. Here David dwelt during the seven and a half years of his reign over Judah. It was also here that Absalom raised the standard of revolt against his father. A sliort time before the capture of Jerusalem, this .,rii'fff.iii''n::!rjfri"s«i ,1.W:i''!"li I'llt' T'% P' '^w 1. y2'i";-..L,4'«y! -uEIiJ"'"' ' '" \ 8 R A « r or THE UNIVERSITY city was burned by an officer of Vespasian; and about the beginning of tbe 12th century it was taken by the crusaders. In 1187 it reverted to the Mos- lems, and has since remained in their hands. At present Hebron is an nnwalled city, containing nine mosks and two synagogues. The streets are narrow, and the houses are built of stone with flat roofs, surmounted by domes. The manufactories of glass are in the narrow, dark lanes near the north part of the city. The principal articles made are lamps, and rings of colored glass, the latter worn by women on their arms and fingers as ornaments. Large crates of these articles may be seen standing in the streets ready to be loaded on camels for trans- portation to Egypt and various parts of Palestine. The environs of the city are very fertile, f m-nish- ing the finest vineyards in Palestine ; also numerous plantations of olive-trees, and excellent pasturage. The population is now about 5,000, and the inhabi- tants are the wildest, most lawless, and desperate people in the Holy Land ; and it is a singular fact that they now sustain the same mutinous character as did the rebels of ancient times, who armed with David against Saul, and united with Absalom ao-ainst David, Among the remains of antiquity are those of two stone reservoirs ; the largest being 133 feet square and 21 feet deep. They are still in daily use, and one of them tradition says was the " pool in Hebron" above which David hung the assassins of Ishbosheth. But by far the most ancient relic here is the cave of Machpelali — Abraham's family tomb, and the burial- place of the Patriarchs. It bears evidence of great '^ ^£^9 r|^35^^^^^^^^ 228 antiquity; and both tradition and the best anthorities concur in locating the cave of Machpelah here. It is covered by a Mosk — a large and singular structure, with lofty minarets at the corners. The exterior build- ing is large and lofty, and is in the form of a parallelo- gram 200 feet in length by 115 feet in width. The walls are built of very large stones, beveled and finished similar in all respects to the most ancient parts of the temple enclosure at Jerusalem ; indi- cating the high antiquity of the structure, and that it was built by the same people, and the same class of builders as the temple of Solomon. No Christian is allowed to enter this building; but at the left of the principal entrance of the Ilaram is a small hole in the massive wall througli which the Jews are permitted at certain times to look into the interior, and here they may be seen wailing and read- ing prayers. The Mohammedans of Hebron are very bigoted, and jealous of strangers, especially Jews. A few years since a couple of travelers — a Jew and a Chris- tian — stopped for a moment to look up at the marble stairs leading to the tomb of Abraham, when imme- diately a crowd came out of the bazars, and with threats and fierce gesticulations drove them away. Another very interesting relic is found up the valley, about a mile from the town. It is an im- mense oak tree, one of the largest in Palestine, as its bran(;hes extend over a space of nearly a hundred feet in diameter. This is believed by some to be the veritable oak under which Abraham pitched his tent —it still bears his name. "-"THE '^ ^ ^'NJVER8/Ty ANCIENT TADMOR. Tliis city was founded by king Solomon about 995 B.C., and is 245 miles n.e. of Jerusalem, in lat. 3-4°lS', and 8S°13' e. Ion. from Greenwich. It is situated on the borders of the Arabian desert, in the midst of a dreary wilderness, remote from human habitation. Tadmor was about 10 miles in circumference, and the ruins show that it once contained some of the most splendid edifices of antiquity. To facilitate trade and commerce, king Solomon built store cities along the great trade routes through his dominions, in which provisions and other supplies for caravans and travelers were -collected. Tadmor was one of those store cities. " And Solomon went to Hamath Zobah, and prevail- ed against it. " And he built Tadmor in the wilderness, and all the store cities, which he built in Hamath." — (2 Chron. viii.) Its original name was preserved till the time of Alexander, who extended his conquest to this city, and changed its name to Palmyra. In A.D. 211, it become a Roman colony under Cara- calla. Subsequently, in the reign of Gallienus, the Roman Senate invested Oleanthus— a senator of Tal- jnyya— with the regal dignity, on account of his ser- vices in defeating Sapor, king of Persia. On the assassination of Oleanthus, his celebrated wife, Zeno- bia, conceived tlie design of erecting Palmyra mto I W i w ^0^^^^'- f^ an independent monarchy ; and in the prosecution of this object, she for a while successfully resisted the Roman armies, but was at length defeated and taken captive hy the Emperor Aurelian (a.d. 273), who left a Roman garrison in Palmyra. This garrison was massacred in a revolt, and Anrelian punished the city by the execution not only of those who were taken in arms, but likewise bommon peasants, old men, women, and children. From this blow the city never recovered. The present appearance of Palmyra is indeed most striking. An awful stillness pervades the ruins ; they stand as lonely and silent as when tlie last Pal- myrenes left their city forever. The long lines of Corinthian columns, seen at a distance, are peculiarly imposing, and seem like sentinels guarding the tomb of the dead city. The principal ruins are: the great Temple, the Temple of the Sun, the„great Colonnade, supposed to have consisted of 1500 cdmnns, and the Necropolis. In the space around the riins, sometimes a palace is found, of which nothing remains but the court and walls ; sometimes a temple whose peristyle is half thrown down ; then a portico, a gallery, and a trium- l)hal arch. Lying around in every direction are vast stones, half buried, with broken entablatures, mutilated friezes, disfigured reliefs, violated tombs, and altars defiled by dust. The grand old ruins of the ancient city contrast strangely with the Tadmor of the present day — mud huts inhabited by Arabs, The Necropolis of Palmyra lies a short distance N. w. of the Temple of the Sun, in the side of a rav- ii y =^W^ SS^^^^^^g^^l^ 235 ine. The tombs are very numerous and of shigulai foi-m, being towers of from two to live stories liigli. One, the tomb of Jarablichus, built in a. d. 3, is still recognizable, but very much dilapidated, its stairs crumbled away, and the top story gone. An inscrip- tion in honor of the deceased is engraved on a tab- let over the door-way. The tomb of Manaius is one of the most curious structures found here. It is a lm I f^mi. m the guandeuk and beauty of its kuins — king solr omon's seal. Baalbek is 195 miles n. n. e. of Jerusalem, on the slopes of Anti-Lebanon, at the opening of a small valley into the plain El Buka. In extent Baalbek was inferior to many Eastern cities ; but in the size and magnificence of its public edifices, and the immense size of many of the stones with which they were built, this ancient city was with- out a rival. The grand ruins of Baalbek stand at the western extremity of the town, and just within the modern wall. There are three orders of architecture, evident- ly belonging to as many distinct eras. First, the stupendous walls and platforms, built of hewn stones of enormous size, and traversed by vaulted passages in several directions ; secondly, two very large tem- ples, of a later date, sm'mounting the platforms; thirdly, the modern or Saracenic walls and towers, in- corporated with the original structures when the place was converted into a fortress. The modern additions are oddly built up of cornices, architraves, and pillars, and incongruously contrast with the venerable relics which they encumber and obscure. The site of the ruins is nearly a dead level, on which has been reared a platform 1000 feet long, 600 broad, and varying from 15 to 30 feet in higlit. This platform is composed of huge cut stones, tlu'ee of ^^^^^^^^^^g :^i 237 w^liich are so large that it seems incredible that they con Id have been quarried, and brought from the quarry — a mile distant — and placed in position (25 feet above the foundation) by any human agency. One of these stones measures 64 ft. 8 inches in length, 3 9 feet in width, and 14 feet thick ; the others do not vary much from it in size. In the quarry is another of these great stones finished, ready to be moved, which is GOfeet long, 17 wide, 14 thick, and estimated to weigh 1135 tons. Many other stones in the plat- form are from 25 to 30 feet long, or nearly half the size of the above. These stones are cut with the beveled edge exactly like the stones in the foun- dation walls of the Temple enclosure at Jerusalem, from which it would appear that both structures were the work of the same people, and the same class of builders. Among the cities mentioned in the 8th chapter of Chronicles, as being built by King Solo- mon, is Baalath, in Lebanon. The similarity of names and situation very clearly identifies it with Baalbek. Josephus also mentions Baalath as one of the jilaces of pleasure built by Solomon in Syria, on account of its temperate climate and water, and the delicacy of its fruits. The Arabs of the present day believe that the founder of Baalbek was a great magician, and reared these huge structures by the power of cabalistic words, and that if the famous Seal of Solomon could be found, the same power could now be used. The pi-incipal ruins of Baalbek are the great Temple, and the Temple of the Sun. The main walls of the temples and the enclosures correspond C^«2S 1 I to the four cardinal points of the compass. The main entrance fronts the east, and was formerly ap- proached by a grand staircase, leading to a portico flanked by handsome pavilions on the right and left. To the westward of this is a hexagonal court 180 feet in diameter, strewn with columns, mutilated capitals, and the remains of pilastej-s, entablatures, and cornices ; around it is a row of ruined edifices which fifty years ago displayed all the ornaments of the richest architecture — but they are now very much weather-worn and broken. Further to the west is a quadrangular court 350 feet wide by 336 in length. At ojie end of this court are six enormous and majestic columns — the glory of Baalbek, and nearly all that is left of the temple dedicated to the " Great God of Ileliopolis" (Baal). They are tlie principal objects in e^'ery view of the ruins. The shafts of these columns are 21 feet 8 inches in circumference, and 50 feet high, which with base and entablature gives the hight fj-om the ground to the top of the pediment, 120 feet. The length of this edifice was 292 feet by IGO in width. In 1751 there were nine of the columns standing ; but three have since fallen. In the modern wall are found several bases, and other fragments of the fallen columns. Flanking the court of the great temple are the ruins of several smaller structui-es, forming a sort of gallery with chambers, several of which are traced in each of the principal wings. These chambers were decorated with most beautifully sculptured niches and pediments, friezes, and cornices. The beauty of Bome of the friezes is beyond all praise. A bold cor- THE GREAT TEMPLE AT BAALBEK. TEMPLE OF THE StTN, AT BAALBEK. , » R A A? V or THE .V UNIYERSITY ^L I FOR Nit* nice all along the wall gives a fine effect to the whole by forming alternately a semicircle and pointed pedi- ment over each recess. Fragments of the columns that formed the front of these chambers are of beau- tiful granite. Various are the conjectures as to the use of these apartments: "Were they chapels or skrines for tlie worship of subordinate deities ? — or recesses for the philosophei'S to sit and lecture in ? — or was the great court a forum, and these places intended for the con- venience of merchants or civil functionaries ? The Temple of the Sun stands south of the great temple, and the platform on which it stands adjoins the great one, but is considerably lower. The Temple of the Sun is one of the most perfect monuments of its kind in Baalbek, if not in the whole world. Its dimensions are 192 feet in length by 96 in width. It was formerly surrounded by a peristyle of Corin- thian columns, the shafts alone of which were 45 feet high and 5 feet in diameter. They each con- sisted of three pieces of stone so admirably fitted together that not space enough can be found between them to admit the point of a penknife. The north and south sides were each ornamented by fourteen of these magnificent pillars — of which nine on the north and five on the south are still standing. At the west end were eight, of which the three most southerly are perfect — the others broken or prostrate. The frieze and cornice are elegant and complete. The sofiit of the peristyle is concave, and the panels are sculptured in imitation of network, a series of large busts and mythological designs running down Wk m m 242 the centre — each in the middle of a larf^e diamond, and smaller busts occupying the angles formed bj the interlacing comj)artments — a most intricate and indescribable design, but very beautiful. The portico consisted of two rows of columns, of which only four remain perfect. The frieze and cornice above these four columns are in the same ex- cellent style and finish. A battlomented tower has been built over them by the Saracens, who have bar- barously raised a huge wall directly in front of the gate of the temple. The width of this portico is 22 feet ; it is composed of nine stones, six forming the sides and three the top ; the key-stone has slipped partly through, and hangs ominously overhead. The injuries the temple has sustained have most of them resulted from barbarian violence ; the columns es- pecially have been destroyed for the sake of the iron bars by which they were held together. But the tottering condition of the beautiful portal was pro- duced by a concussion more destructive than even the mutilatino; hand of the Mohammedan — the ffreat earthquake of 1750, \ About 450 feet from the south-east angle of the Temple of the Sun is a beautiful little Corinthian temple — circular, and pierced externally with niches, each flanked by two columns, so as to give the struc- ture the appearance of an octagon. Eailhquakes have sadly shaken this little edifice, so that now only four pillars are standing. Beneath the great plat- form on which the two temples stand are spacious vaulted passages of very massive architecture, and solidly constructed. Two of them run parallel with A\ each other from east to west, and are connected bj a tliird riinnino' at right ano-les to them from north to south. They are now used as storehouses and grana- ries. Beneath the Temple of the Sun there are sub- terranean chambers, with flights of steps leading down to them from the interior of the temple ; they are lighted from above, and by openings in the side of the platform. Wliat the original destination of these chambers was, it is now impossible to tell; but the Arabs, who ascribe the whole structure to the great magician King Solomon, and the Djins who wrought his behests, imagine them to be deposi- tories for treasure. Indeed, it is the universal belief among the Turks and Arabs, that every great mass of ruins covers mighty heaps of treasure ; nor can tliey be persuaded that travelers visit them for any other purpose than that of carrying away the spoils. At a short distance west of the great ruins stand eight stumpy columns of Egyptian granite, highly polished, and for the most part without a scratch on them. One of these columns is distinguished from the rest by its green quartz. These columns are true Egyptian granite, and as no such rock is found any- where in Syria, the query is suggested — how could pillars fifteen feet long and three feet in diameter be brought over Mt. Lebanon, which is difficult for travelers to cross, even unencumbered ? Baalbek is now a wretched Syrian callage, with a population of less than 200 ; and the day is not far distant when the jackal and hyena will be undi&- puted masters of this once splendid city. HAMATH. ONE OF KINO SOLOMON S STORE CITIES. namatli is a very ancient city ; and was tne princi- pal city of upper Syria at the time of the exodus (B.a 1491). This city, like Jerusalem and Damascus, has retained considerable importance from the very earli- est times to the present day. It is 250 miles n. n. e. of Jerusalem, and is si- tuated in the valley of the Orontes, about half way between its source, near Baalheh and the bend which it makes at Jisr Hadid. A part of the valley of the Orontes at one time constituted the kingdom of riamath. King Solomon took the kingdom of Hamath, and made the city a depot for stores and supplies. He also huilt other store cities in the district. The government of Ilamath includes about 120 inhabited villages, and 75 that have been abandoned, comprising most of the ancient kingdom of Ilamath. The city now, as of old, stands on both sides of the river, which is spanned by four bridges. The upper part of the city is supplied with water from the river by means of immense water wheels, in the rim of which buckets are so arranged as to empty themselves into stone aqueducts, which conduct the water to the houses and gardens. There are about a dozen of these wheels, the largest being nearly 70 feet in diameter. Extensive ruins of the ancient parts of the city are found scattered about here, but so much decayed as to be scarcely recognizable. The chief iia^iitr,,,,,.. ■ V ^^^^^^^E^ 247 trade of Hamath is with the Arabs, who buy here their tent furniture and clothes ; there is also a con- siderable trade in cotton, woolen, and silk. The present population is 30,000. GEBAL. I ITS STONE SQUAREKS. Tliis was a very ancient seaport of Phenicia, 20 miles N. of Beiiiit, and 182 miles from Jerusalem, via Joppa and the Mediterranean. Gebal was situated on a spur of Lebanon, close to the shore, and had a fine harbor, but which is now filled with sand, ruins of quays, and buildings. The inhabitants were called Giblites — " stone- squarers." Hewers of stone from Gebal were em- ployed on Soloinon^s Temple. The ruins consist of the remains of a castle and extensive walls, and of beautiful columns. The ruins of the castle exhibit some of the best specimens of ancient masonry to be found in Palestine. The stones in its walls are beveled, and some of them are 20 feet in length. The style of the columns, and the extent of the walls, indicate the size and importance of the city. m L A delegation of the inhabitants of this city — Kirjath-jearim, Chephirah, and Gibeon — by resorting to the stratagem of wearing old tattered garments, and representing themselves as having traveled from a far country, deluded Joshua into a treaty of peace with them. Eeeroth is again mentioned in connec- tion with Kirjath-jearim and Chephirah, in the list of those who returned from Babylon. The murderers of Ishbosheth belonged to this city. The modern town stands at the foot of a ridge, and contains about 700 inhabitants. Euins of considerable exter.t are found here, the stones having the Jewish bevel — the same as those in the foundations of Solo- mon's Temple at Jerusalem; and on one of the stones was found a groujp of the private marks of the huilders. KIRJATH-JEARIM. This city is first mentioned as one of the four cities of the Gibeonites, and is 9 miles n. w. of Jerusalem, on the road fi-om Jerusalem to Jaffa. Near Kirjatli- jearim the band of Danites pitched their camp be- fore their expedition to Mount Ephraim and Laish, leaving their name attached to the spot long af ter- wai'ds. One of the first names it bore was that of the Canaanite deity, Baal ; and it was doubtless the sanctity implied by its bearing that name that in- duced the people of Beth Shemoth to appeal to its in- habitants to relieve them of the Ark of Jehovah. \8 Ra1> or THE '^ ^NiVERsrry VNIYERSfTY ) ^^4 <>lUroR^l^^-' / 253 which was bringing such calamities on their untutored experience. The Ark remained in the house of Abi- nadab, at Kirjath-jearim, 20 years; at the end of this time it was removed by David a short distance to the iiouse of Obed-edom, where it remained until its re- moval to Jerusalem. There are but few of the ruins of this ancient city remaining, but those of the largest buildings indicate that they were built by the same class of men who erected the Temple of Solomon, as the stones have the same bevel and finish as those in the foundations of the Temple. On one of them was found a group of the private marks of the builders. The site is now occupied by the village of Kuryet- el-Enab, usually known as Abu Gosh, from the noted robber chief whose headquarters it used to be. SAMAKIA, rrS BEAUTIFUL SITUATION AND GREAT STKENGTH THE TOMB AND CITUKCH OF ST. JOHN. Samaria is 40 miles n. by w. of Jerusalem, and 6 miles N.w. of Shechem. Its situation is strong by nature, and very beautiful. It stands on a large hill, surrounded by a broad deep valley, that is enclosed by four hills — one on each side ; which are cultivated in ter- races to the top, sown with grain and planted with fig and olive trees, as is also the valley. The hill on which the ancient city was built, was chosen by Omri as the site of the capital of the kingdom of Israel. " He bought the hill of Samaria of Shemer for two talents of silver, and 254 I built on the hill, and called the name of the city which lie built, after the name of the o\\Tier of the hill, Samaria." This city was highly adorned with public buildings, and became the favorite residence of the Idngs of Israel instead of Shechem and Thirzah, the former capitals. Ahab built here a palace of ivory, and a temple to Baal — which Jehu destroyed. The natural strength of the position, and its strong fortifications, rendered it nearly impregnable against the then sys- tem of warfare. The Sp-ians twice invaded it ; the first time b. c. 901, and again b. c, 892, but were both times repulsed, b. c. 724, it was attacked ])y the powerful Shalmaneser, kiug of Assyria ; but he did not succeed in taking it until after a siege of three years — when he carried its people away captive. About 667 B. c. it was repeopled by Esar-IIaddon with Cuthites from beyond the Tigris. The city was afterwards taken by Alexander the Great, who put a large part of the inhabitants to the sword, and per- mitted the remainder to settle in Shechem. He re- placed them by a colony of Syro-Macedonians, and gave the adjacent territory to the Jews to inliabit. Afterwards the city came into the possession of Herod the Great, who colonized it with 6,000 veterans and others. He built a wall around it, and a magnificent temple in the centre. How long it maintained its splendor after Herod's improvements does not appear, and henceforth its history is uncertain. Septiraius Severus planted a Roman colony there in the begin- ning of the third century. During the siege of Jeru- salem it fell into the hands of the Moslems. The \^^l ^ •■"HJft^^v^ or rwe £41 J ^^ ii m present village is small and poor, and contains about 200 inhabitants. The most conspicuous ruins are those of the church dedicated to St. John the Baptist, erected over the spot which tradition claims to he thepilace of his hurial. The walls remain entire to a considerable hight, and enclose a large space, in which are now a mosk and the small building over the tomb. The tomb is a small chamber cut deep in the rock, to which the descent is by twenty-one steps. It is said that during the reign of Julian the Apostate, the heathen broke open this sepulchre, burnt the bones and scattered the ashes to the winds. Other ruins are found on three terraces, and consist of a number of columns, twelve of which stand in a row, the others are scattered about. These columns are said to have belonged to the Serai, or Palace. On the second ter- race, heaps of stone, lime, and rubbish are found mixed with the soil in great profusion. On the third terrace but few traces of ruins are found. Most of the public edifices at Samaria appear to have been the work of the same class of builders that built the Temple of Solomon at Jerusalem ; the Jewish rebate and bevel being the prevailing style, and thejprivate marks of the builders found on the stones here are similar to those on the stones in the Tem/ple substructions. fm m The Garden of Eden. — Mount Ararat. — The disper- sion of the jpeojple. — Their location^ or the jplacc^ occupied hy them. — First settlements of the human family. The region embraced between the Black and Cas- pian Seas on the north, and the Mediterranean Sea and Persian Gnlf on the south, may well be regarded as the cradle of the human race, as it comprises the Garden of Eden, where man made his advent on earth ; and Mount Ararat, where the Ark rested after tlie flood subsided, and from whence the remnant of the human family went forth to repeople the earth. In this region their first settlements were made, and here the ruins of the first cities they built are found ; particularly on the banks of the Euphrates and Tigris, and on the east coast of the Mediterranean. THE GARDEN OF EDEN. The only data for determining the location of this important spot is found in Gen. ii. 8, 11, 13, 14. As to the true interpretation of this account, the best authorities are about equally divided ; some claiming that it was in the district at the head waters of the rivei'S ^-^'y^ \ 8 R A /. Of THE < UNIVERSITY ; 261 Euphrates and Tigris, and the Araxes and Phosis; while others beheve that it was between the Euphrates and Tigris, near their junction — about 130 miles n. of the Persian Gulf. That one of these localities con- tained the Garden of Eden there can be but little doubt, as there is no other place which so nearly meets the requirements of the Scripture account. MOUNT AKAEAT is in Armenia, 775 miles n.e. of Jerusalem, about 300 E. of the Caspian Sea, and is in 39° 30' n. lat. and 4:3° 40' E. Ion. fi-om Greenwich. It rises directly out of the plain of the Araxes, and is the loftiest and most imposing mountain in this region, being 17,560 feet above the level of the sea. About 1,200 feet be- low the highest summit is a secondary summit, and between the two there is a gentle depression, in which it is believed the ark rested. Arguri is the only village known to have been built on the slopes of this mountain, and according to tradition it is the place where Noah planted his vineyard. At the foot of the mountain is Nachdje- van, where the patriarch is reported to have been buried. M: \im THE niMEDlATE DESCENDANTS OF NOAH, AND THEIB LOCATION, OE THE PLACES OCCUPIED BY THEM. " And the sons of Noah that went forth of the ark were Shem, Ham, and Japhet these are the i i ^^^^^^^^^E 262 sons of Noah ; and of them was the whole earth over- spread." — (Gen. ix.) Of the descendants of Ham, were Nimrod and Canaan. Nimrod settled in the land of Shinar, a dis- trict above the junction of the rivers Euphrates and Tigris. "And the beginning of his kingdom was Bal)el, and Erech, and Accad, and Calneh, m the land of Shinar." — (Gen. x.) Canaan occupied the east coast of the Mediterra- nean, from Sid on to Gaza, including the hill country in which Jerusalem was built. The descendants of Shem were distributed from Mesha on the Persian Gulf, and towards Sephar, a mount of the east. " By these were the isles of the Gentiles divided in their lands ; every one after his tongue, after their families, in their nations." CHAPTER IX. THE FIRST CITIES BUILT — THEIR KISE, FALL, AND RUINS AS NOW SEEN.* Bahylon, its vast extent — its fall — its remarkdblf ruins — Erech — Accad — Calneh — Nineveh^ a sketch of its history — Its wonderful ruins and inscrip' tions — Damascus — Shechem — Gaza — Bethel — • Bethlehem — Sidon — Jericho. BABYLOK ITS VAST EXTENT ITS FALL ITS KEMABKABLE EUINS. Babel, or Babylon, is the first in order of the four cities built or occupied by Nimrod. It is 300 miles N. \v, of the Persian Gulf, 200 above the junction of the river Euphrates with the Tigris, and 530 miles E. N. E. of Jerusalem. Herodotus, who visited Baby- lon after its conquest by Cyrus, is considered the best authority as to a description of the city, as his account is corroborated by the testimony and re- searches of all subsequent writers, and by the explo- rations and excavations of the present age. He describes the city as a quadrangle of 15 miles on each side, surrounded, first, by a deep, wide moat, filled with water ; and next by a wall 87 feet wide and 60 feet hiffh. The 30 lower courses of brick in * Hebron, Beeroth, Hamath, Jerusalem, and Tyre, are also reckoned araong the first cities. >WB' the wall were wattled with reeds, and the whole cemented by hot asphalt. On each side of the top of the wall was a row of dwelhngs facing each other, the passage between being of sufficient width to admit of turning a chariot with four horses. In the great wall there were 100 gates of brass, 25 on each side of the city ; and between every two gates a tower 10 feet high. Although the outer wall was the chief defense, there was a second wall within, not much inferior in strength, but narrower. The city was divided into two nearly equal parts, by the river Euphrates running from north to south ; and the wall, with wide quays outside, was carried along each bank, the sides of the river being lined with brick. In the middle of each division of the city were fortified buildings; in one the royal palace, with a spacious and strong enclosure ; and in the other the precinct of Jupiter Belus — a square building of 2 furlongs on each side. There were 50 streets in all, running from gate to gate ; each street was 150 feet wide and 15 miles long. The houses were three and four stories high. A bridge, admirably constructed of stones, bound to- gether with plates of lead and iron, was built across the river about the middle of the city. At each end of the bridge was a palace, the old palace being on ilia eastern, and the new on the western, side of the river. The Temple of Belus occupied an entire square of the city. In the middle of this precinct was built a solid tower of one stade, both in length and breath, and on this tower rose another, and so on to the number of eight. An ascent to these was by spiral staii-s, winding Q^ m Rronnd the outside of the tower. About the middle of the ascent was a landing-place, with seats, where those ascending could rest themselves ; and in the top tower stood a spacious temple, and in the temple a beautiful couch, and by its side a table of gold. No statue was erected in it ; nor was any mortal allowed to pass the night there except only a native woman chosen by the god out of the whole nation. The Chaldeans, who were priests of this deity, say the Temple did not attain its full splendor until the time of Nebuchadnezzar, who greatly enlarged and beau- tified it. The summit of the temple was devoted t