VlBRAR? OF THE UNIVERSITY . OF JjCRUSAXrEM And MT MortiAH. H \ k L ^L^ fci CD Bntorod accordiucj to Act of Congres?, in the j-ear 187T), by tlie TEMPLE rUBLTSHIXCr XJXIOX, In \hc Oiricp of the Librarian of Con'_'ress. at WashuiLrton. a' s^^^, M MMi 15/ ^% I PEEFAOE. Within a fe"w years past, extensive explorations have been carried on throughout the East, which have resulted in remarkable discoveries in nearly all of the ancient and renowned cities known to sacred history. Among the most important of these discoveries are those made in Jerusalem, in the excavations around and under the Temple site — among the ruins of King Solo- mon's store cities, Baalbek, Tadmor, and Hamath — at Babylon, Nineveh, and Shushan. These discoveries have awakened an interest that will not be satisfied with anything less than a description of the ruins of all the important cities of the East. In the ordinary works of Eastern travelers and writers, so much space is given to incidents of travel, and the speculations of travelers, that but little room is left for a description of antiquities or relics. The aim of this work is to comprise in a convenient compass the results of all the important explorations i^^^'jf'v^^/ and excavations made in the East;— especially among the ruins of King Solomon's cities. To this end, this work has been made strictly descriptive and historical; yet containing only enough of history to render the subject intelligible. By this plan a description of the ruins, as now seen, of forty of the most famous cities of antiquity is given in the space of this volume. The Author. f or rn/ UNIYERS: CONTENTS CHAPTER I. JERUSALEM. ITS ORIGIN, AND A SKETCH OF ITS HISTORY. ORIGIN— ASSAULT AND CAPTURE OP THE CITY BY DAVID— DAVID' 9 DEATH HE IS SUCCEEDED BY SOLOMON, WHO BUILDS THE MAGNIFICENT TEMPLE, AND THE STORE CITIES SIEGE OF JERUSALEM BY TITUS, IT IS TAKEN AT MID- NIGHT WANTON DESTRUCTION OF THE TEMPLE BY FIRE PAGE 17 CHAPTER II. A SKETCH OF THE TOPOGRAPHY OF THE CITY AND ADJOIN- ING COUNTRY. JERUSALEM — ^VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT — VALLEY OF HIN- NOM — THE TYROPCEON — WALLS — VIA DOLOROSA — DAVID STREET. PAGE 45 CHAPTER III. RELICS, OBJECTS AND PLACES OF INTEREST. ANCIENT POTTERY — LAMPS — KNIVES AND OTHER RELICS — ZION BRIDGE — ANCIENT CASTLE OF DAVID — GATES OF THE CITY — POOLS — FOUNTAINS — VALLEY OF JEHO- SHAPHAT — VILLAGE OF SILOAM — ANCIENT TOMBS AND VAULTS — VALLEY OF HINNOM — ACELDAMA, THE FIELD OF BLOOD PAGE 51 r '/y>\ if)' ^1 THE VALLEY OF JEHOSnAPHAT — OF HESTNOM — ACELDAMA — MOUNT OP OFFENCE — ANCIENT SEPULCHRES— SCOPUS niDGE — MOUNT OP OLIVES — THE ROAD OVER "WTIICn CHRIST RODE INTO JERUSALEM. » PAGE 75 CHAPTEK Y. CONCERNING THE TEMPLE OP KING SOLOMON. MOUNT MORIAH — THE TEMPLE AREA, OR ENCLOSURE — WILSON'S ARCH— ROBINSON'S ARCH — MASONIC HALL — FOUNDATION WALLS OP THE TEMPLE— SOUTH, WEST, AND EAST GATES — DOME OF THE ROCK — MOSQUE EL AKBA PAGE 87 CHAPTER YI. THE PRIVATE MARKS OP THE BUILDERS AND THE REMARK ABLE ANCIENT QUARRY UNDER JERUSALEM. MARKS FOUND ON STONES EN THE FOUNDATION WALLS OP THE TEMPLE AREA — MARKS FOUND IN SAMARIA AND HEBRON PAGE 117 i' If^ PLACES HISTOKICALLY COKTNECTED WITH SOLOMON'S TEMPLE AND THE BUILDERS. ANCIENT TYKE, HIRAM'S TOMB— MT. LEBANON— A SKETCH OP ITS HISTORY — ITS WONDERFUL TOPOGRAPHY— THE RENOWNED CEDARS — THE FOREST WHERE THEY WERE PROCURED FOR SOLOMON'S TEMPLE— HOW THEY WERE CONVEYED FROM THE MOUNTAINS TO THE SEA, AND MADE UP INTO FLOATS— THE SINGULAR INHABITANTS OP LEBANON; THEIR MANNERS AND CUSTOMS — THE AKALS, A SECRET ORDER, HAYING SIGNS, GRIPS, AND WORDS SIMILAR TO THOSE IN USE AMONG MASONS — PASS OP THE JORDAN— JOPP A— HEBRON, ITS IMPORTANT RELICS OP ANTIQUITY, AND SINGULAR MOSQUE— KING SOLOMON'S STORE CITIES, BAALBEK— TADMOE — HAMATH AND GEBAL — THE RUINS OP EEEROTH — KIRJATH JEARIM— SAMARIA, CHURCH OF ST. JOHN PAGE 141 CHAPTER YIII. THE CRADLE OP THE HUMAN RACE. ^ THE GARDEN OP EDEN— MOUNT ARARAT— THE DISPER- SION OP THE PEOPLE — THEIR LOCATION, OR THE PLACES OCCUPIED BY THEM — THE FIRST SETTLE- MENTS OP THE HUMAN FAMILY PAGE 258 CHAPTER IX. THE FIRST CITIES BUILT, THEIR RISE, FALL, AND RUINS, AS NOW SEEN. THE RUINS OP BABYLON — ERECH — ACCAD — CALNETH — NINEVEH — DAMASCUS — SHECHEM — GAZA— BEERSHEBA — BETHEL— BETHLEHEM— SIDON — JERICHO PAGE 263 ? 7)^ m m DESCRIPTION OF THE RUINS OP SHUSHAN, CITY OF QUEEN ESTHER, MORDECAI, AND HAMAN — DESCRIPTION OP THE RUINS OP ATHLEET, AND THE WILD ARAB TRIBE THAT INHABITS THE PLACE — DESCRIPTION OP THE HAURAN, LAND OP MYSTERY, ITS RUINS OP DESERTED CITIES AND VILLAGES — DESCRIPTION OP THE RUINS OP THE SPLENDID ANCIENT CITY OP PERGAMOS — OP GE- RASH — SHILOH — RABBAH — SARDIS — TARSUS — TIBERIAS — CESAREA — SOURCES OP THE JORDAN— CAPERNAUM — ANTIOCn— EPHESUS — GADARA — LYDDA — NAZARETH — ATHLEET PAGE 344 hYi-v \>Tf '> CHAPTER XL THE KNIGHTS TEMPLARS — ORIGIN OP THE ORDER — THE FATAL BATTLE OP HATTIN — MASSACRE OP THE KNIGHTS — DESCRIPTION OP THE REMARKABLE ANCIENT CITY OP KERAK, A STRONGHOLD OP THE KNIGHTS PAGE 400 CHAPTER XII. PYTHAGORAS — HIS BIRTHPLACE, EDUCATION, TRAVELS, PHILOSOPHY, GREAT INFLUENCE AND RENOWN, AND THE TRAGIC TERMINATION OP HIS CAREER PAGE 423 k m THREE OOtTRSBS OF STONES IN THE FOUNDATION WALLS OF THE TEMPLE ENCLOSUEE, WITH THE PEIVATB MAKKS ON THEM. INTEKIOK VIEW OF A GALLERY AT THE FOUNDATION OF THE WALL. EXPLOEEB EXAMINING MAKKS. rNTEEIOB VIEW OF THE ANCIENT QUAEEY UNDEE JERU- SALEM, IN WHICH THE STONES WEEE QUARRIED FOB THE TEMPLE. PILASTER IN MASONIC HALL. ANCIENT FIGURED PAVEMENT. MT. LEBANON AND THE BAT FROM WHICH THE TIMBBB WAS FLOATED FOR THE TEMPLE. THE Cmr OF JOPPA, WHERE THE TIMBER WAS LANDBUX THE CITY OF TYRE AS IT NOW IS. HIRAm's tomb near the CITY OF TYRE. hiram's well. KING Solomon's store cities — theib buins. BAALBEK. TADMOE. t KIEJATH JEABTM. hebeon. SAMARIA. BIDON. GEBAL. THE RUINS OF NINEVEH. THE RUINS OF BABYLON. THE RUINS OF SHUSHAN. DAMASCUS. ///' nXDSTKATIONS. XI EGYTIAN MYSTERIES — FIEST SCENE IN THE INITIATION OF A CANDIDATE THE TEST BY FIRE, WATER, AND AIR. SECOND SCENE IN THE INITIATION THE SACRIFICE. THIRD SCENE IN THE INITIATION THE TRIUMPHAL PRO- CESSION. THE BIRTHPLACE OF PYTHAGORAS — THE ISLAND OV SAMOS. THE RUINS OF RABBAH. THE RUINS OF EPHESUS. THE RUINS OF GADARA. EXCAVATIONS AT SHUSH AN. IMAGES. VALLEY OF MURDER, JERICHO. SUCCOTH. ST. John's church. THE PALACE AT SHUSHAN. ABDEL KADER. AN ACACIA TREE. ANCIENT POTTERY LAMP AND INB! BOTTLE SUCH A8 WAS USED BY THE SCRIBES. THE CASTLE OF DAVID. GETHSEMANE. ANCIENT COFFIN. GOLGOTHA. PLAN OF THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. PETHANY. SHECHEM. ^' tt^^f EPHRAIM. David's mosque and tomb. mount akarat. a group of captives. king solomon, from an ancient sculpture. collecting contributions foe rebuilding the TEMPLE. BATTLE-FIELD OF HATTIN. WAR-HORSES AFTER THE BATTLE. THE REMARKABLE RUINS OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF GERASH. THE RUINS OF ATHLETE. RUINS OF PERGAMOS. ANCIENT CITY IN THE HAURAN. ANCIENT KITCHEN AND UTENSILS. ANCIENT DRINKING CUPS. ANCIENT MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. RUINS OF THE GREAT FORTRESS OF KERAK — A FAMOUS STRONGHOLD OF THE CRUSADERS. SEVERAL ENGRAVINGS, GIVING VIEWS OF LEBANOM SCENERY — ITS INHABITANTS THEIR DWELLINGS, ETC, ^*^ IK"DEX TO THE PLAN OF JERUSALEM AND ITS RUINa Armenian Convent on Mt. Zion. Episcopal Church, and Consulate of St. James. David Tower. Hezekiah Pool, bmlt by Herod ; now used. Castle of David. Greek Convent. Coptic Convent. Latin Convent. Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Pilate's house (ancient citadel), now the Pasha's resi- dence. Bethesda Pool. St. Ann Church. Prussian Consulate — near the site of Herod's palace. Ruins of an ancient temple. Valley Gate, near the Jaffa Gate. Ancient gate, now closed (Bethezo was neax it), on Zion. Essenes' Gate, on Zion South, Tower of Siloam. East or Sun Gate. The Stairs of David — ^now in use. Intermediate Gate, between the two walls at the Junction of the Tyropoeon and Kidron Valleys. The House of David — it spanned the Tyropoeon Valley here. The Tower that lieth out over the Virgin Fountain. Water Gate ; on Ophel. The Great Tower— Tower of OpheL 14 INDEX TO THE PLAN. No. 26. Horse Gate, near the S. E. comer of the Temple. 27. Tower of the Flock (IVIicah iv., 8). 28. Sheep Gate — near the present St. Stephen's Gate. 29. Tower of Hananeel; N, K comer of the Temple Area. SO. Fish Gate — near the present St. Stephen's Gate. 31. Gate of Benjamin — North and East. 32. Cemetery. 33. Throne of the Governor. 34. Damascus Gate ; facing North. 35. Broad wall between Ephraim and the comer Gate. 36. Comer Gate — near the N. W. corner on the West. 37. Tower of Furnaces ; in the West end of the East and West wall. 3§, First Gate ; in the first wall, near Jaffa Gate. 39. The Armory, or House of the Forest of Lebanon, in tho N. E. comer of Zion. 40. Prison Gate ; Shallecketh, in the Temple. 41* Miphkad Gate ; the Stocks for detaining and punishing criminals were near this Gate, at the West end of the Tyropoeon bridge. 42. Second Gate in the Tyropoeon. 43. Tower of Hippicus ; the ruins are in the N. W. comer of the city waU, called the Giant's Tower. 44. Phasaelus — a Tower nanaed after Herod's brother, near the Gennath Gate. 45. Mariamne— named by Herod after his Queen ; on Zion. 46. Gennath (gardens) Gate — near the Jaffa Gate, in tht< third wall. 47. Psephinos ; an octagon tower. North of Hippicus. There were 90 towers in the third waU; no other names have been recorded. In other walls there were other gates, of which no ruins exist. 4§. Fort of Zion ; the Great Acropolis, so famed during the Syrian Wars. 49. Castle of Zion ; taken by David from the Jebusites. 50. Zion Bridge. 51. Citadel ; was high and overlooked the city. 62. Millo; at the Junction of the Zion and Tyropoeon Valleys. INDEX TO THE PLAN. 15 No. 53. Road over which Christ rode iato Jerusalem. 54. Golgotha. 55. Castle of Antonia; containing the Judgment HalL 56. Baris ; the Acropolis of Akra. 57. Strabo's Tower, near Antonia. 58. Illustration showing the form of the original hiU Mount Moriah. 59. Upper Pool of Gihon. 60. Jews' "Wailing-Place ; here are to be seen some of fcho foundation-stones of the Temple. 61. Garden of Gethsemane. 62. Church of the Ascension. 63. Entrance to the great underground quarry, where the stones were quarried and prepared for Kiug Solo- mon's Temple. 64. Village of Siloam. Besides these there are records of a great many palaces, market- places, and synagogues for instruction in the Scriptures and tra- ditions, of which there remains no vestige by which they can with certainty be identiiied. MOUNT MORLLH— SITE OF SOLOMON'S TEMPIxE. A, A, A, A, Temple Area. No. 1. Dome of the Rock; Ancient Christian Church: now a mosk. 2. Mosk el Aksa; the Ancient Knight Templar's Church. 3. Mogrebins Mosk. 4. The Sea of Solomon, underground. 5. Vaults under the platform. 6. Ancient South Gate of the Temple ; now Donble Gate 7. Ancient West Gate, now Prophet's Gate. H. Gate of the Chain. 9. Gate of the Bath. 10. Iron Gate. 11. Gate of the Inspector. 13. East or Golden Gate. ■'*, CHAPTER I. JERUSALEM. ITS ORIGIN, AND A SKETCH OF ITS HISTORY. OHgin — Assault and Capture of the City hy David — DavicVs Death — He is succeeded by Solomon^ who huilds the Magnificent Tenvple, arid the Store Cities — Siege of Jerusalem hy Titus, it is taken at Midnight — Wanton Destruction of the Temple hy Fire. The city of Jerusalem, witli its ruins of temples, towers, walls, and tombs, is one of the most pro- foundly impressive localities in all the world. While reflecting on the history of this city, wave on wave of thought rush in on the mind from out the limitless ocean of the past, and while contemplating its ruins the mind is carried far back through the dim vista of ages, to the time when Mt. Zion was the Jebusite's stronghold, and when the site of the magnificent Temple of Solomon was a threshing-floor. In all other holy places there were worshiped beasts and birds (Apis and Ibis, Egypt), the human form (Greece), and hideous images of things foimd neither in the heavens nor the earth (India). But here the shepherds of Canaan, who watched their flocks among the hills, bowed to Him who is still called the God of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob. In Genesis we I i read that in the beginning God created the heaven and the earth, and, as the great Architect of the Universe, he claims the exclusive worship of man. Since the day when the tent of the wilderness (the Tabernacle) was enlarged into the Temple, what various and thrilling events have made the temple site famous! There swiftly passes in review the foundation of that sacred and stately edifice, with its spacious courts and white marble walls, resplendent with fine gold; the magnificent rites and ceremo- nies, the solemn prayers and costly sacrifices, and the mysterious Holy of Holies, the Shekinah. Then follows the destruction of this sacred place by the idolaters from Babylon, and its restoration by Zerubbabel and Ezra, when some who had seen the first house wept, while others shouted for joy. And finally, Herod's Temple, larger and more magnificent than the others, which had been forty-six years in progress when Jesus spake in it of its final destruc- tion, which came with Titus and the Eomans ; and of all its precious and beautiful furniture and sacred vessels, there remains only a time-worn sculpture of the Candlestick and the crumbling Triumphal Arch of Titus at Rome. Besides these material things there is a long proces- sion of good men and women, kings, prophets, and priests, who frequented this place to worship, and held the same faith with us; whose lives are our example, and whose songs are our psalms and hymng of praise. The dark side of the picture is stained with frightful idolatries, de\alish wickedness, false- hoods, blasphemies, hypocrisies, and murders, even 'i^» J ^^0l \^s^4 '\^& 'US '^|y m 'S^j 1 ' XV^^ -^-^^^v^ 1^^^ 1 p,^^^ ^"^^yj" ' l^m \'JM^ 1 iffi 1 ;^p j;M '-%C^- '^^^ ! ;^^M ^S \^i^k ^^^1 i' y^ ij^^^ 1 i ^^0' I^M \I^M 1 \m 1 • mP^ if P iWI 1 ^^/r m\ lf'^/\\i \liU . ^f , m \ Uk^ in the midst of the most awful denmiciations against sin in every form. The view is also darkened by accounts of sieges, famines, destructions, captivities and dispersions, des- olations and wars unnumbered, with but a few rays of blessings in restorations. Uncounted millions for nearly two thousand years have directed towards this shrine their hopes and prayers. This eventful his- tory and its present condition lead to the inquiiy, will the Temple ever be rebuilt ? "Will Jerusalem ever be restored ? Will the twelve tribes ever be re- gathered ? — questions that can only be answered by the Great Director of human events. From Abraham to the present time a knowledge of the one true God has been the chief source of in- spiration, and there have been many great teachers who have instructed, counseled, warned, and thi-eat- ened the people ; always magmf)dng the service and the rewards of the true faith. Will there ever be another great teacher there ? OEIGIN. The name of this famous and sacred city suggests inquiry into its origin and history. The name, Jerusalem, is fii'st found in Joshua x. 1, 3, 5, 23. It is next called Jebus or Ha Jebusi, and its inhabitants Jebusites. The Greeks called it Hiero Solyma (Holy City of Solomon) ; but Jerusalem has been the common name since Solomon's time. The second son of Noah was Ham, who begat Canaan, whose descendents were the Jebusites, who dwelt in the hill country in which Jerusalem is situa- [:^^ I N^ Si I tod, and had their stronghold on Mount Zion, and, as there is no reliohle record or tradition of its oc- cupation by any other peo]3le previous to its occupa- tion by the Jebusites, the conclusion is very evident that the city was founded by them ; but there exists no data for determining the precise time. "And the Lord spake unto Moses, saying, Send thou men that they may search the land of Canaan, which I give unto the children of Israel — And Moses sent them to spy out the land of Ca- naan, and said unto them, Get you up this way south- ward, and go up into the mountain. " So they went up, and searched the land from the wilderness of Zin unto Kehob, as men come to Ha- math. And they returned from searching of the land after forty days. And they went and came to Moses, and to Aaron, and to all the congregation of the children of Israel, unto the wilderness of Paran, to Kadesh ; and brought back word unto them, and unto all the congregation, and shewed them the fruit of the land. And they told him, and said, We came unto the land whither thou sentest us, and surely it floweth with milk and honey ; and this is the fruit of it. The Amalekites dwell in the land of the south: and the Ilittites, and the Jebusites, and the Amorites, dwell in the mountains : and the Canaanites dwell by the sea, and by the coast of Jordan." (Numbers xiii. 1, 17, 21, 25, 26, 27, 29.) "And the border went up by the valley of the son of ninnom unto the south side of the Jehusite ; the same is Jerusalem : and the border went up to the top oi the mountain that lieth before the valley of Hinnom westward, which is at the end of the valley of the giants northward : And the border came down to the end of the moun tain that lieih before the valley of the son of Hinnom, and which is in the valley of the giants on the north, and descended to the valley of Hinnom, to the side of Jebusi on the south, and descended to En-rogel, And Zelah, Eleph, and Jebusi^ which is Jerusalem,^ Gibeath, and Kirjath; fourteen cities with their vil- lages. This is the inheritance of the children of Ben- jamin according to their families." (Joshua, xv. 8 — xviii. 16, 28.) HISTOET. The first recorded siege was by Judah and Simeon (about 1400 B.C.). Now after the death of Joshua it came to pass, that the children of Israel asked the Lorci, saying. Who shall go up for us against the Canaanitos first, to fight against them? And the Lord said, Judah shall go up: behold, 1 have dehvered the land into his hand. And Judah said unto Simeon his brother. Come up with me into my lot, that we may fight against the Canaanites ; and I likewise will go with thee into thy lot. So Simeon went with him. And Judah went up ; and the Lord delivered the Canaanites and the Pcrizzites into their hand : and they slew of tlicm in Bezek ten thousand men. Nov/ the children of Judah had fought ajrainst ?V^^ ,//: II! i^^» m 22 Jerusalem, and had taken it, and smitten it with the edge of the sword, and set the city on fire. (Judges, i. 1, 2, 3, 4, 8.) But they only took the lower city — the fortress of Zion and upper city being too strong for them. Following this was an attack by the Benjamites, but with no better success. These sieges and attacks were continued through the time when Israel was ruled by the judges, and the reign of Saul, and the reign of David at Hebron. But the Jebusites successfully resisted every attempt on the fortress of Zion, and thus remained practically masters of the city until about 1049 e.g., when David with an army of 280,000 men, choice warriors, the flower of Israel (1 Chron., xii. 23, 39), advanced to the siege, and with little trouble took the lower city, but, as before, the citadel on Zion held out until the Jebusites tauntingly said to him: "Except thou take away the lame and the blind thou shalt not come in hither " (2 Samuel, v. 6, Y, 8). Which roused David's anger, and he proclaimed to his host, that tlie first who would climb the rocky side of the fortress and kill a Jebusite should be made chief captain of the host ; upon which a crowd of warriors rushed forward to the attempt, but Joab's superior agility gained him the day, and the citadel — the fortress of Zion — was at last taken. The fall of this hitherto impregnable strong- hold created a great sensation throughout the length and breadth of the land. David at once proceeded to fortify and secure him self in his important acquisition by enclosing the city and citadel with a strong wall. The ark was brought i 23 from the house of Obed-Edom, (near Kirjath-Jearim,) and deposited here with the most impressive cere- monies, and the city then became the religious centre and political capital of the countiy. Previous to this the seat of government had been wherever the judges or rulers had their residence ; their place of residence and the ark constituting the capital and religious centre for the time being. These transient capitals were successively Gilgal, Shiloh, Shechem, Nob, and Gibeon. (Joshua, iv. 18, 19). David was succeeded by his son Solomon 1016 b. c, whose great works were the Temple with its east wall and cloister, the house of the forest of Lebanon, the walls of Jerusalem, with large towers thereon, the great cisterns or sea under the temple area, the throne, a palace for his Egyptian wife, 40,000 stalls for his horses, the garden, Baalath, Beth-horon, Gezer, Hazor, Megiddo, and Tadmor. The crowning glory of his reign and adornment of the holy city was the Tem- ple or House of Jehovah. The magnificence and mar- velous beauty of this edifice did not arise so much from its size as fi'om the whiteness of its walls, the style and finish of its many columns and pillars, and lavish use within and without of the gold of Ophir and Par- vaim. (See page 499) Through the whole time that this Temple was in building the tranquilHty of the city was not broken by the sound of the workman's ax or ham- mer, and the only dark shade to the picture is the fact of the practical reduction to bondage of the strangers in the land, the remnant of the Canaanite races ; one hundred and fifty-three thousand of whom were sent off to the forests of Lebanon and the quarries. Even "^ li p i i 1 i B; Bl 'pl' m^ the Israelites were compelled to take place by rota tion at the same labor. The addition of the splendid Temple, Palaces Walls, and Towers, to<yether with other great improve- ments made in the City by King Solomon, rendered it at the close of his reign the most beautiful capital of the age. Its population at this time was about 150,000. Rehoboam, son and successor of King Solomon, ascended the throne 976 B.C., and reigned 17 years. Under his reign the ten tribes revolted and formed the Kingdom of Israel, under Jeroboam, with their capital at Shechem, Jerusalem remaining the capital of the Kingdom of Judah. Rehoboam was succeeded by his son Abijam, who reigned 3 years, and was succeeded by Asa his son, who ascended the throne 951 e.g., and reigned 41 years. In the eleventh year of his reign God gave him the victory over the vast army of the Cushite King Zerah. Asa was succeeded by his son Jehoshaphat 914 e.g. His reign was distinguished by the cleansing of the land from idolatry, the restoration of the divine ordi- nances, and provision for the religious instruction of the people. The great error of his life was an entang- ling alliance with Ahab, whose infamous daughter Athalia early began to afflict the kingdom of Judah, of which she was afterwards queen. Jehoshaphat united with Ahaziah in a commercial enterprise, which proving to be a failure, he declined a second trial : he, however, united with Joram in a war with Moab, in which he was assailed by a vast army of ^ii^^ a SOLOMON, KING OF ISRAEL. o* '^\^ /A 27 Moabites, Ammonites, Edomites, and Syrians, but through his faith in God he* was victorious. After a highly prosperous reign of 25 years, he died at the age of 60. Joram succeeded his father, after reigning with him four years, then reigned four years alone ; in all 8 years. Unfortunately he was married to Athalia, daughter of Ahab and Jezebel, whose evil influence did much to render his reign a curse to the kingdom. lie slew his brothers, five in number, and seized their possessions. He also introduced Phoenician idols and idolatry into Judea, by which he incurred the divine displeasure, which was shown by leaving him unaided under a revolt of the Edomites, which was successful. His kingdom was invaded by the Philistines and Arabi- ans, who ravaged the country, the city, and even his own house. His reign ended 8S5 e.g., when he was succeeded by Aliaziah his son, who reigned but a short time — meeting his death at the hand of Jehu while in company with Joram, son of Ahab. After the premature death of Ahaziah, his mother Athalia ascended the throne and sought to secure herself on it by the murder of all the seed royal. Joash, her grandson, then an infant one year old, was the only one who escaped — being concealed by his Aunt Jeho- sheba. Six years afterwards the f aitlif ul and fearless high-priest Jehoiada caused the blood-stained Athalia to be put to death, and crowned Joash king. Tlie reign of Joash began 877 e.g. Through the faithful sare of Jehoiada, Joash served God and prospered ; but after the death of his venerable friend and adviser he followed less wholesome counsels, idolatry revived. t^ (Kk4^ Km i If ^. 28 and Zachariah the high-priest rebuked the guilty peo- ple, upon which the ungrateful king caused this servant of God to be stoned to death. Misfortunes soon multiplied on his head ; he was repeatedly hum- bled by the Syrians, and had to buy them off with the treasures of the Temple. A conspiracy among his servants cut short his life, and thus ended liis reign. Joash was succeeded by his son -Amaziah, who be- gan to reign 838 b.c, and reigned 29 years. Having established himself on his throne and punished the murderers of his father with death, he mustered an army of 800,000 men of Judah, and hired 100,000 men of Israel for a war on Edom. At the command of Gai, he reluctantly dismissed the hired forces, after which the victory was given him without their assistance. Notwithstanding the divine aid in his be- half, he carried home with him the idols of Edom, and set them up to be his gods. For this defiance of Jehovah, he was threatened with destruction by a Prophet of the Lord — which came in a war in which he was defeated and humiliated. Fifteen years after this, a conspiracy was formed against him, upon which he fled to Lachish, where he was overtaken and slain. Amaziah was succeeded by Azariah — elsewhere Uzziah — who began to reign e.g. 808. At first hia reign was prosperous ; but afterwards, presuming to oifer incense in the Temple, he was smitten with leprosy, from which he suffered till his death. Jotham, son of Azariah, succeeded to the throne 756 B.o. No event of importance transpired during his reign — which was wise and prosperous. He was sue I CO/' m spfc|si<i^ eeeded by his son Ahaz, who ascended the throne 749 B.C., aiid reigned 16 years. He was noted for his idolatry and contempt of God. He made his children pass through the fire to idols ; he altered the Temple to the Syrian model, and afterwards closed it alto- gether. In punishment for this defiance of Jehovah he was defeated in battle with Pekah and Rezin ; the Edomites revolted, and his borders were harassed by the Philistines. Turning still more away from God, in his distress he sought aid from Pul, king of As- syria, which fatal step made him tributary to Pul and his successor Tio-lath-Pileser. Ahaz died at the ajye of 36, and was refused burial with his ancestors the Kings. Hezekiah, son of Ahaz, succeeded to the throne and began his reign about 726 B.C. His reign is memor- able for his efforts to restore the worship of the true God. In the fourteenth year of his reign, the king of Assyria marched against Jerusalem, and sent an insulting and blasphemous message, demanding the surrender of the city, which being communicated to Hezekiah, he repaired to the Temple and there im- plored divine aid against the presumptuous invader, in response to which the Lord sent an angel that night who smote and destroyed the Assyrians — 185,000 men — who were found corpses in the morning. " Now in the fourteenth year of king Hezekiah did Sennacherib king of Assyria come up against all the fenced cities of Judah, and took them. And the king of Assyria sent Tartan and Pabsaris and Rab-shakeh fi'om Lachish to king Hezekiah with m m a great liost against Jerusalem : and they went up and came to Jerusalem. And when they were come up, they came and stood by the conduit of the upper pool^ which is in the highwa,y of the fuller's field. And when they had called to the king, there came out to them Eliakim the son of Hilkiah, which wah over the household, and Shebna the scribe, and Joah the son of Asaph the recorder. And Rab-shakeh said unto them. Speak ye now to tlezekiah, Thus saith the great king, the king of Assyria, What confidence is this wherein thou trust- est'^ '"' And it came to pass that night, that the angel of the Lord went out, and smote in the camp of the Assyrians a hundred fourscore and five thousand : and when they arose early in the morning, behold, thev were all dead corpses." (2 Kings, 17, 18, 19 — xix. 85.) llezekiah died 697 e.g. and was succeeded by Ma- nasseh, who began to reign when he was twelve years old, and reigned 55 years. The commencement of his reign was noted for his shocking idolatries, cru- elty, and tyranny, foi which God suffered him to be carried a prisoner to Babylon in the twenty- .second year of his reign, by Esar-Haddon, king of Assyria. Here, however, he so humbled himself, that God moved the Assyrians to restore him to his throne as a tributary; and thenceforth, he set himself to undo the great evil he had done. He abolished the worship of idols and repaired the defences of the city, enclosing with a wall more space at the west, and Ophel on the south-east, and after a loii^ reign he died Ah n \m^ \N in peace, and was buried in Jerusalem. Manasseli was succeeded by Amon, who began to reign at the age of 22, 642 e.g. His servants conspired against him and slew him in his own house ; but the people killed the conspirators and established his son Josiah on the throne, who commenced to reign 640 b.c. He set himself at once to work to destroy every vestige of idolatry out of the land. He defiled the altars of the idols at Bethel by burning upon them the bones of their deceased priests ; as had been fore- told more than three centuries before (1 Kings, xiii. 2). The Temple was cleansed and repaired at his command, and it was wliile doing this that the priest found the Temple copy of the law ; perhaps the orig- inal copy from Moses' own hand. Pharao-Necho, marching to attack the king of Assyria, passed across the territory of Josiah, who, in an attempt to stop him, gave him battle, in which he lost his life, 609 e.g. Josiah was succeeded by Jehoahaz, who reigned only about three months, when he was deposed by the king of Egypt. Jehoiakim, second son of Josiah, succeeded Jehoa- haz on the tkrone, and began to reign about 609 e.g. In the third year of his reign Nebuchadnezzar took the city and carried to Babylon a part of his princes and treasures, A year afteft* this, his allies, the Egy]:)tian3 were defeated on the Euphrates, yet he despised the warnings of Jeremiah and cast his book into the fire. At length he rebelled against Nebuchadnezzar, and was defeated and slain. Jehoiachin, son of Jeho- iakim, succeeded to the throne 599 e.g. After reigning three months, he was carried captive to 32 Babylon, where he remained imprisoned 36 years^ but was then released and treated with favor by Evil Merodach. Zedekiah. — ^When Nebuchadnezzar took Jerusalem and carried Jehoiachin away captive, he put in hia place Mattaniah, whose name he changed to Zede- kiah, and made him swear that he would maintain fidelity to him. Yet in the ninth year of his reign he revolted and applied to Pharaoh-hophra for assis- tance. Upon this ISTebuchadnezzar marched to Jeru- salem, and after a siege of a year and a half took the city 588 b. c. Entrance was gained at midnight when the city was wrapped in the pitchy darkness characteristic of an eastern town, and nothing was known by the Jews of what had happened till the generals of the invading army entered the Temple and took seats in the middle court. Then the alarm was given, when Zedekiah hastily collected his remaining warriors and stole out of the city by a gate at the sonth side — near the present Bab- el-Mugharibeh, crossed the Kidron above the ±'oyal gardens, and made his way over Mount Olivet to the Jordan valley; but the Chaldeans pur- sued and overtook them on the plains of Jericho, Zedekiah was taken and carried to Nebuchadnezzar, then at Riblah in Syria, who reproached him with his perfidy, ordered his children to be slain before his face, and his eyes to be put out; and then loading him with chains of brass, ordered him to be sent to Baby- ion. — (See Babylonish captivity, page 393.) Meantime the wretched inhabitants suffered all the horrors of assault and sack; the men were slaughtered, <^M. \k old and young, prince and peasant ; and the women violated in Mt. Zion itself. On the Tth day of tho following month Nebuzaradan arrived, collected the captives and booty, and on the tenth the temple, the royal palace, and all the more impoi-tant buildings of the city were set on fire, and the walls thrown down and left as heaps of rubbish. This destruction of the city and deportation left the land nearly deserted. The subsequent history of Jerusalem may be epi- tomized as follows : — About 332 e.g. it was taken by Alexander of Macedon. Shortly after his death Ptolemy Lagus, of Egypt, took it by assault on the Sabbath, when it is said the Jews scrupled to fight. 199 B. c, Scopus, an Egyptian general, recovered Judea to the King of Egypt. 170 b. c, it was taken by Antiochus Epiphanes, who razed its walls, set up an image of Jupiter in the Temple, and used every means to force the people into idolatry. Under the Maccabees the Jews again recovered their independ- ence 165 B. c. About 100 years later it was con- quered by the Romans, and Herod the Great ex- pended vast sums in its embellishment. A. D. 63, the Jews renounced their allegiance to Yespasian, upon which hostilities at once began. The insurgents held the Temple and lower city. In the Castle of Antonia was a small Roman garrison. Fierce contests lasted for several days, each side en- deavoring to gain possession of the part held by the other. At last the insurgents became masters of the ^it}'^ and Temple. Cestius Gallus, then encamped on Scopas, advanced on the city and for six days saulted the walls, but without success. He then d ^ off to his camp. Thither the insurgents followed him, and in three days gave liim one of the most com- plete defeats ever undergone by a Roman army. The Jews then repaired the walls of the city and made great preparations for its defense against another expected attempt by the Romans — which was soon made by Titns, who arrived and encarajjed on Scopas and Mount Olivet, and commenced the siege. April the 15th the first breach was made in the walls. June the 11 til the Tower of Antonia was taken. July the 15th a soldier wantonly and without orders set fire to the Temple, which was destroyed except the edi- fice of the Sanctuary. September the 11th the city was taken, and its destruction completed, except the three great towers — Hippicus, Phasaelus, and Mari- amne, which were left standing as memorials of the massive nature of the fortifications. A.D. 135, Adrian banished the Jews and planted a Roman colony there. He also consecrated the city to heathen deities, so as to defile it as much as possible, and did what he could to obliterate all traces both of Judaism and Christianity. About A.D. 326, Helena, the mother of Constantino, built two churches in Bethlehem and on Mount Olivet. Julian endeavored to rebuild the Temple, A. D. 363, but his design was frustrated, as contempo raneous writers relate, by an earthquake and by balk of fire bursting among the workmen. A.D. 613 Jerusalem was taken by Chosroes, king of Persia, who slew 90,000 men, and demolished the buildings and objects venerated by the Christians. In 627 Heraclius defeated Chosroes, and Jerusalem was w wi m f w ,JI1;: i! I ■iff ill 11, 1 :ii''li ^,_._ .; n liililil fes^ - J Vwri il?!fe- nlUI RECEIVING CONTRIBUTIONS EOR REBUILDING THE TEMPLE. , ^/'>^ 1ft a *> ' :■ ■6i recoveied by the Greeks. 637 it was taken by Omar, the second of the Kalifs, and thus passed un- der Mohammedan rule. The Mosque of Omar on the Temple site was built by this Mohammedan Kalif. From this time Jerusalem continued under the Kalifs of Bagdad, till 868, when it was taken by Ahmed^ a Turkish sovereign of Egypt. From this till 1099 it was ruled alternately by Tui-k and Saracen. At this latter period it was taken by the crusaders under God- frey Bouillon, who was elected king. He was succeeded by his brother Baldwin, who died iu 1118. In 1187 Saladin, Sultan of the East, took the city. In 1242 it was restored to the Latin princes by Saleh Ismail, Emir of Damascus. In 1291 it was taken by the Sul- tans of Egypt, who held it until 1382. Selim, Sul- tan of Turkey, made conquest of Egypt, Syria and Jerusalem in 1517, and his son Solyman reconstructed the walls of the city, as now seen, in 1534. Since this time, with the exception of the 2 years it was held by Ibrahim Pasha of Egypt, and two years by the Fellahinj it has remained subject to Turkey. It is now included in the pashalic of Damascus, but with a resident Turkish governor. Altogether, Jerusalem presents a history unex- ampled in the number of its sieges and othoj* tragical events. It has greatly declined from its former size and splendor, and has now a population of only 20,000. i m Ik J: A k. '\ \ I liu^lw'li J ^ JTerusalem— Valley of tTeliosluxphat — Sinnom — TyropoRon — Walls — Gates — David /Street — T^ia Dolorosa — Mownt Zion. To render the situation and description of the points of interest intelligible to those who are not familiar with the subject, a slight sketch of the to- pography of the city and adjoining counti-y will be necessary. Jerusalem is situated on the summit of the ridge \vhich extends through Palestine from north to south ; the only approach to the city being by wild moun- tain roads. The spur or plateau on which the city is built has a general slant to the south-east, and its av- erage height above the Mediterranean is 2,475 feet. This plateau is of tertiary limestone, the upper beds of which are a hard, compact stone called by the Arabs " Mezzeh," while the lower consists of a soft white stone called " Melekeh." It was in this lattei that most of the ancient tombs and cisterns were cut. SrCN.i C^^-1/ 46 The city is nearly surrounded by two ravines or valleys : Jehosliaphat on the east, and Hinnom on the west and south. THE VAiLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT commences well around to the north of the city, and at first its course is nearly east for a mile and a half ; it then makes a sharp bend to the south, which course it follows to En Rogel, a deep well a short distance below the city. From this point it winds its way through the wild hilly country of Judea, twelve miles to the Dead Sea. Through this valley nins the brook Kedron. THE VAXLEY OF HESTNOM commences west of the city, and its course is at first, south-east to nearly opposite Jaffa gate, where it bends to the south, which course it follows to a short distance below the lower pool of Gihon ; at this point it makes a sharp bend to the east, and, passing the south end of the city, joins the valley of Jehoshaphat at En Hogel. Both of these valleys are at first very shallow, mere depressions in the ground, but after changing their courses, the Ilinnom to the east, and Jehosha- phat to the south, they fall and deepen more rap- idly, so that at En Eogel they are six hundi-ed and seventy feet lower than at their starting points. Between the valley of Ilinnom and Jehoshaphat there is another ravine. THE TTKOPCEON, VALLEY OF THE CHEESE-MONGEES, commences near the Damascus gate, and running nearly south, joins Jehoshaphat at Siloam. This ravine divides the plateau on which the citj' stands into two iniequal halves, the western spur being one hundred and twenty feet higher than the ejist- ern ; on the latter — Mount Moriah — once stood tlie temples of Solomon, Zerubbabel, and Herod. On the western was the upper city of Josephus, and here also stood the three great towers — llippicus, Phasfelus, and Mariamne. The sides of these valleys are now en- cumbered with much rubbish, still they are sufficiently steep to be difficult of access, so that in ancient times they must have afforded a strong natural defence for the south, west, and east sides of the city, and this it was which gave the Jebusites such assurance when they said to David, " Except thou take away the lame and the blind, thou shalt not come in hither/' The original city was built on Zion, and was sur- rounded by a strong wall, and as the city was enlarged a second wall was built; afterwards a third. Tiie city is not nearly as large now as at the time of Christ, being only about two and a half miles in circumfer- ence. The present wall is very strongly built, its thickness being fi-om twelve to fifteen feet, and its height varying from thirty to seventy feet, according to the inequalities of the surface of the ground. There are five gates now in use: t'^:ie Damascus gate on the north, St. Stephen gate on the east, the Sun and Dung gates on the south, and the Jaffa* gate on the west. There are also five ancient gates, now closed, viz. ; the Bab Azzahire on the north, the Golden gate on the east side of the Temple area, and the Single, Double,t and Triple gates on the south side. ^m ^ DAVTD STREET runs from Jaffa gate on the west to the Temple area on the east; Dolorosa runs from St. Stephen gate on the east to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. North and west of David street is the Christian quar- ter of the city; near the centre of this quarter, at the west end of Dolorosa, is the church of the Holy Sepulchre ; south of this is Zion, Zion gate, and the lejDers' huts. South of this is David's resting-place, or tomb of David. North of the Temple area is a hill which is doubtless the Bezetha of Josephus. It is now occupied by Moslem houses, a convent built by the CcBurs de Sion, and the British, Prussian, and Austrian consulates. MOUNT ZION. Mount Zion is in the south-western part of the city, [t is bounded on the west and south by the valley of * Ancient Joppa, now Jaffa gate. f The ancient South gate of the Temple. rt^: ,-K 7 A 1 49 Hinnom, and on the east by the Tyropoeon. From the valley of Hinnom the sides anciently rose up in steep rocky precipices, but the ruins from the many de structions of the city have been tumbled into these valleys so as to cover up, in many places, the precipi- ces, and entirely obliterate all traces of the original brow of the hill. This is especially the case with the Tyi-opoeon valley, wliich is now so filled with the ac- cumulations of ruins, that opposite to Mount Zion it has hardly the appearance of a valley; even on the top of the hill, where a few years since the English church was built, nearly fifty feet of rubbish was dug through before the original soil was reached. The southern brow of Zion is bold and prominent, and at the southwest corner of the city it is one hun- dred and fifty feet above the valley, and on the south three hundred. Upon this mount the original city was built. Here was the stronghold of the Jebusites, which was cap- tured by David, and here was the palace of the kings of Israel. But now how changed ! On ground once thickly covered with public edifices and dwellings, among mounds of ruins, large patches of barley and wheat may be seen growing. " Therefore shall Zion, for your sake, be ploughed as a field, and Jerusalem become heaps, and the mountain of the house as the high places of the forests." (Micah iii. 12.) Several valleys begin north and west of the city, and wind south and west to the sea, the larerest of which is Wady Beit Hanina, continued in Wady Sm-ar. The mountains round about Jerusalem higher than the city on every side ; so it is necessary to go ujp to the city from any direction. The names and localities of the several hills are plainly given on the engraving.* The walls of the modern city are indicated by the heavy black line. The more ancient walls are shown by dots and marks arranged and named on the engraving. In the Bible and Josephus there are given the names of the gates, towers, and notable edifices, the sites of which are laid down on the plan in accordance with the reports of the latest ordnanc3 purveys and explorations. * Jerusalem and its ruins— See first part of the Book. ^iM CHAPTEE III RELICS, OB.TECTS, AND PLACES OF INTEREST, Ancient Pottery — Lamjps — Knims and other Belies — Zion Bridge — Ancient Castle of David — Gates of the Citxj — Pools — Fountains — Valley of Je- Uoshajphat — Village of Stloam — Ancient Tombs aiid Vaults — Valley of Hinnom — Aceldama the Field of Blood. In tlie description of the Subterranean Quarry, a cut of a lamp is given,showing how the quarry was lighted while the men were at work. It will be interesting to notice some of the many foi-ms of lamps, with their singular marks and inscriptions, that have been found among the rubbish in the various excavations under Jerusalem, in cisterns or sewers, where they have been accidentally dropped, or in chambers where they were left when the rooms were abandoned. Nearly all of those found are broken, a few only being whole, which had been lost, perhaps. Many of the objects found in the rubbish were the work of Greeks or Romans, and may have been imported from Europe. But there are also specimens of Phoenician or Hebrew workmanship, especially the most ancient articles wliich were found in the deepest places, apparently w t^ <S3:#"^0!| where they had lain undisturbed since the time of Solomon. Of the earthenware and terra-cotta there are five classes of objects among those discovered. 1. Ancient Hebrew and Phoenician. 2. Greek or made by Greek colonies. 3 Koman or their colonies. 4 Christian, of the early ages; 5. Arabic, middle age and modern. Of the first there are a large number of fragments, the most interesting of which are vase handles Avith curious devices stamped on the clay before it was burned in the kiln. Some of these were found at a depth of sixty-three feet below the present surface. There is on nearly every one a figure of Baal with letters above and below it, signifying that the maker had the royal license of manufacture. Some of these have a cross, as the potter's mark. There was a royal guild of potters in Jerusalem, as mention- ed in Chron. iv. 23. Two of the Greek specimens are of the most ancient and curious make ; they are round lamj)s with four lips or places for wicks. These lamps were found in a cave on Mount Olivet. Others of this pattern have been found on the Island of Cyprus, and in Malta and other Greek localities. The caves of Olivet have furnished many specimens of vases, dishes, and lamps of various patterns and of different workmanship, Greek, Roman, and later. One of these is saucer-shaped, ten inches across, and has three legs, each perforated, forming rings by which the article was hung up when not in use. Some of Jewish lamp. No. 8. Ancient linives, Lamps, and Ink-bottle. V..SIYER8ITY s -. Of 1/ the Greek articles were of yellow ware ornamented with red patterns in the true Greek style. Simi- lar jugs and vases may now be seen in use among the Ai-ab Kabyles in Algeria. One piece of the upper part of a jug was ornamented in imitation of a giri with a shawl thrown over her shoulders figured in a Grecian pattern, and very skillfully executed. Six different vases were found whole or broken, of precisely similar patterns and ornaments to some that were found in Egypt. They are of a very hard black substance and coated with a crimson glaze. Five are shaped like a cedar cone, but ribbed in sections besides the seed markings. Third. — Fragments of several kinds of pottery of Eoman work were found in different places, some of which were very beautiful, and bore inscriptions. The Romans used pottery to a great extent, and always left fi-agments of broken ware wherever they camped, and some interesting specimens have been found in Jericho and other places in Palestine. Fourth. — Among the articles of the Christian period there are a great number of lamps, nearly all of which are rendered interesting by the inscriptions inscribed on them, or from the locality where they were discovered. Judging from the material and style of lamps the early Christians were very poor and also very devout. The devices stamped on them are various, and include the cross in many styles;— the seven-branched-candlestick, formed after that which lighted the Holy Place in Solomon's Temple, and emblematical of Christ the light of the "World ; the palm branch suggested by the passage in Psalma xcii., and St. Jolin's Gospel, xii. 13, and in Tte-v^ela« tion ii. 9. Nearly all of these lamps are pear-shap- ed, and ornamented around the edge of the top only. (See No. 8.) The round lamp (see No. 7) is of Greek workmanship, and is ornamented. Inscriptions are found on some of them, one of which reads P H O S' ^w? Christus (xs), pheuipacin ^ENIUAKIN, and may be translated " Christ the light of all," or "the light of Christ shines out." Another has the legend IX©. Jesus Christ God, or it may be the Symbol of the fish icthus meaning Christ — in Greek also Jesus Christ Saviour. Fifth. — Tlie Arabic pottery is interesting from its material and designs. One pattern has a design painted on it, in blue and black lines, and is similar to specimens found in Egypt. Some of them have inscriptions in the peculiar Coptic letter, and probably date as far back as the age of Haroun al Raschid. The wall tiles of the Mosque of the Sakkara at Jerusa- lem are of similar materials, and also those of the Great Mosque at Damascus, where they are orna- mented with a pattern in blue lines on a pale green ground. The articles of glass that have been found are highly interesting as antiquities, as they prove the use of the material in ancient times. One of the glass vessels foimd is double, and was doubtless an ink-holder. It had three handles, one on each side, and one on the top, the last having been broken (see No. 6) ; the color is a pale green, ornamented with circular and zigzag lines of a dark blue tint, re- lieved by a darker blue. The large glass lamp, -svith M// m\ hi ^■^^M THE "iVERSfTY ^:! I Q a wide open top, has three handles for suspending chains, and is of a pale green color. The old Coptic Convents in Egypt are lighted to this day by similar lamps, some of which have inscriptions in the Coptic lano-uage selected from the New Testament. Objects in bronze, copper, and stone, are qnite numerous, and highly interesting as specimens of ancient workmanship, and as showing some of the tools and implements in use at the time of the two Hi rams. THE ECCE HOMO ARCH, This arch is over the Via Dolorosa opposite the Gov- ernor's house, and is traditionally said to bear the very chamber and window from which Jesus was shown to the people by Pilate when he said " Behold the Man " (Ecce homo). This Arch spans the principal street of the city, be- ing the one that leads from St. Stephen's Gate on the east to the Joppa Gate on the west, along which thou- sands of pilgrims from different countries pass in all sorts of garb and every variety of style, on foot, on donkeys, camels and horses. Some loaded with bag- gage, others with books or relics, and, mingling with these, the natives in equally varied costume and con- dition carrying fruit, water-jars, and children. No greater picture of confusion could be imagined than is seen in Jerusalem about the time of Easter every year, when nearly every nation under the sun is repre- sented by pilgrims of every degree, from the wealthy nabob on horseback to the poor and lame hobbling on foot. ■1 i « 60 THE ACACIA-TRISE. Tlie Acacia Seyal is one of the most beautiful ever- greens of Palestine. It is often found growing in the dry bed of some extinct brook where all other trees have died out. The wood is fine-grainedjhard, and of a brown color. The leaves are small and pinnulate, and its blossoms are little tufts of yellow fiber-like hair ; the seeds are in pods. The largest acacias in Palestine are those growing near the fountains of Engedi, on the west shore of the Dead Sea ; several of which are from six to eight feet in diameter. They are found growing all along the course of the Jordan, south of the Sea of Galilee. The gum-arabic of commerce and medicine is pro- duced by this tree spontaneously, and from incisions in the bark. The Arabs use it for food in time of scarcity. Camels eat its thorny foliage. Its use by the fi-aternity is well known, and refers to it as an evergreen, therefore a very appropriate emblem of life beyond the grave. \m v^; ^r the' ZION BRIDGE. — NO. 52. This bridge ci'ossed the Tyropceon Valley, con- necting Mount Zion with Mount Moriah. There is but httle remaining of this ancient structure except on the Moriah side, where it united with the Temple wall ; here a portion of one of the arches still remains. This is doubtless the bridge mentioned by Josephus, the construction of which is ascribed to Solomon. THE ANCIENT CASTLE OF DAVID. The large space just inside of the Jaffa Grate, to the south, where are seen the numbers 3, 5, 44, 48, and 61, is the area once occupied by the ancient Castle of David, Fort and Castle of Zion, and other works of defence. But little now remains to be seen of them except the Tower of David, No. 3, and the Citadel, No. 5. The Citadel, or Castle of David (No. 5), near the Jaffa gate, is remarkable for its great strength and venerable antiquity. The lower part of it is built of massive stones, from nine to thirteen feet in length, and from three to four feet thick. Their Jewish origin is indicated by the deep bevel round the edges. The height of the tower above the present level of the fosse is forty feet. It is built solid, and recent excavations show that for a considerable height above the foundation it is formed of the natural rock, hewn into shape and faced with stones. This is one of the towers saved by Titus as a memo- es 4' mr rial of the almost impregnable strength of the city he had captured. No. 20. — The States of David are a flight of steps cut in the native rock near the Siloam pool. (See Nehemiah xii. 37.) THE JAFFA GATE. — (aJTCIENT JOPPA GATE.) This is the entrance to the city from the east From this gate roads lead to Bethlehem, Hebron, Gaza, and Jaffa. A little to the right of this gate, on the outside, are heaps of ancient ruins ; but what buildings once stood here, none can now tell. THE DAMASCUS GATE. The entrance to the city from the north is through this gate. From this gate, roads lead to Mt. Tabor, the Sea of Galilee, Damascus, and Palmyra, in the interior ; and Tyre and Sidon on the coast. ll V %1 l<4 ST. STEPHEN GATE. This gate is on the east side of the city, a short distance north of the Temple area. From this gate, h/'. roads lead to Bethany, Bethphage, Jericho, Gilgal ^^-'' and the River Jordan. w THE lepers' HUTS, Lepers are seen around Jerusalem now as in the ancient time. They are mostly found at the Zion \ '"' ^ or THE V OF i. *_j1 Gate, where they have their huts or dwellings. These miserable creatures intermarry and have children, thus transmitting and perpetuating their loathsome and mysterious disease. WATEK SmTLY. Since the chief supply used in the Temple area is now derived from Solomon's Pools, as it was in his day, and doubtless has been ever since, with very few intermissions, as at sieges, etc., it will be interesting to give a short account of these pools. They are situated at Etliam, eight miles from the city, south- west of Bethleliem. The Sealed Fountain (mentioned in Canticles iv. 12) is a few rods above the pools, and is 30 feet under ground, in a rock-hewn room, containing a fine copious fountain, and an entrance room arched over and roughly walled ; the ^^'ork of Solomon. This is the main source of supply for the pools. The water first flows into the upper pool (380 by 236 feet, and 25 feet deep) ; and then from that IGO feet to the second (423 by 250 feet, and 39 deep) ; and tlien 248 feet farther to the third (582 by 207 feet, and 50 deep), and from the last pool the water is conveyed by an aqueduct to Jerusalem. All of these pools are built of large hewed stones, and are well lined with cement, with a rocky bottom in terraces. Bi-oad flights of steps lead down into them. There are rooms under the lower pool, at its lower end, having walls and arches similar to those at the Sealed Fountain. These arches are in a good Btate of preservation, kej-stones and all, and arc good evidences of the antiquity of the whole. The aqueduct is made of cylinders of red pottery from 12 to 15 inches long by 8 to 10 inches in diame- ter, cemented and covered with earth over two feet. There are several places provided with stone open mouths, where the water can be dipped out. The valley of Tlinnom is passed above the pool of Gihon on 10 arches (which are now almost covered with rubbish), and winding around Zion reaches the great pool at Jerusalem. (See Engv*) The water-supply of the city is not very abundant, nor of a very good quality ; but anciently, before Ilezekiah stopped the great fountains in Gihon, and when even the present sources were better cared for, there must have been plenty of good water. Nearly every house has now one or more cisterns for holding rain or spring water. 'rMl THE POOL OF SILOAM. This is one of the most noted fountains about Jeru- salem. The Saviour, having anointed the eyes of the blind man with a mixture of dust and spittle, said : " Go wash in the pool of Siloam," and he went and washed, " and came seeing." Above this pool is the fountain of Siloam or Yirgin fountain^ from which the water flows to the pool of Siloam through a sub- terranean passage 1,750 feet in length, chiselled hy the hand of man through the solid rock of Ojphel! At the upper end of this pool is an old arched stair- way, now tumbling into ruins, by which a descent * EDgraving in first part of the Book. K^. ■^<^=^ can be made to the mouth of the subterranean pa& sao-e throuo;h which the water enters. Six ancient pillars of Jerusalem marble are embedded in a por- tion of the eastern wall of the pool, which, in con- nection with others that have now disappeared, once supported a roof over the pool. THE UPPER POOL OF GraON. This pool is in the centre of the basin which con- stitutes the head of the valley of Hinnom, and ia about 127 rods from the Jaffa Gate. It is 315 feet long, 208 feet \vide, and 20 feet deep. This pool supplies the Hezekiah pool, just inside of the Jaffa Gate. THE LOWER POOL OF GmON Is in the valley, nearly opposite the southwest angle of the city, and about 23 rods below the Jaffa Gate. It is 600 feet long, 260 feet broad, and 40 feet deep. These two pools are capable of holding water for many thousands of people. There are several notices of them in the Bible. The Prophet Isaiah was com- manded by God to go forth and meet Aliaz " at the end of the conduit of the upper pool in the highway in the Fullers' Field." At the same place Kabshakeh stood when ho delivered the royal message of his imperious master, the king of Assyria, to the messengers of Hezekiah (See Isa. xxxvi. 2 and 3.) :r.>^^l f^ ;><:^ EOGEL. This is a large well, south of the Pool of Siloam at the jiinction of the two valleys, Jehoshaphat and Hinnom. It is 125 feet deep, and strongly walled with large stones. This wall terminates in an arch at the top, the whole hearing e^ndence of great antiquity. This well is still a place of great" resort, as the water is better than most of the water about the city. A large flat stone with a circular hole in the centre constitutes the mouth of the well. The water is still drawn, as in ancient times, in leathern buckets and earthen jars attached to ropes; deep creases are worn into the edge of the aperture through the cap- stone, where these ropes have for many centm-ies been drawn up. THE VERGIN FOimTAriSr. This fountain is a large, deep, artificial cavity in the hill-side, cut entirely in the solid rock. It is reached by a broad stone stairway of 26 steps. Tlie water is about 25 feet below the entrance on the liill-side, and some 10 or 15 feet below the bottom of the valley. The water is contained in a basin 15 feet long by from 5 to 6 broad, and 7 feet deep. The usnal depth of the water is about 3 feet, the bottom of the basin being covered with pebbles, an accumulation of dirt, and rubbish. It is said by some to get the name, " Fountain of the Virgin," fi'om the fact that these waters were considered a grand test for women accused of incontinence. If 1/ ¥ M \\bX Fountain, N. E. corner of Temple Area. ^^m^^m^M^ iimocent, they drank it without injury ; if guilty they immediately fell down dead ! Wlien the Virgin Mary was accused she submitted to the ordeal, and thus established her innocence. 73 NO. 4. THE HEZEKIAH POOL Is in the city, near the Jaffa Gate, and is 240 feet long by 144 feet wide. Its bottom is formed of the natural rock, levelled and cemented. This pool sup- plies several large baths with water. Near the Cotton Bazar is the Well of Healing, 85 feet deep, through rock. There are several cham- bers and passages connected with this well, whose uses are unknown. The Pool of Bethesda (Moat of Antonia) is 865 feet long, 131 wide, with a branch at the south-west corner 142 feet long and 45 wide. The north half of it is walled over by foundations for houses, and built upon. The Mekhemeh Pool is under ground near the "Wailing Place, and is 84 feet by 42, built against the Temple area wall, arched over but not now used. The Bath of Bathsheba was near the Jaffa Gate, north, is 120 feet long by 50 wide, and 20 deep ; — now filled up with rubbish. Helena's Cistern, near the Coptic Convent, is 60 feet long by 30 vtdde. and is supplied with good water the year round. CHAPTER IV. PLACES OF INTEREST NEAR THE CITY. The Valley of JehosJiaphat — of Hinnom — Aceldama — Mount of Offence — Ancient Sepulchres — Scopas, Ridge — Mount of Olives — The Road over which Christ rode into Jerusalein. THE VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT. Fkom the head of this valley, on the north of the city, to St. Stephen Gate, its fall is about one hundred feet, and its width at this point is nearly four hun- dred feet. Across the valley, a little below this, is the Garden of Gethsemane. A little lower down, the valley begins to deepen rapidly, the hills rising in steep precipices on both sides. Passing the Fountain of Siloam the valley again widens ; and here arc found pleasant gardens and cultivated terraces. A short distance from, and in strange contrast to these, are "Tophet and Black Gehenna, called the Type of Hell." Jehoshaphat might properly be called the VaPey of Sepulchres. On its west side, just under the wall of the Temple area, the Mohammedans have a cemetery, where thousands of their singular -look- ing tombs may be seen. On the opposite side of the ^alley is the Jewish cemetery, the great silent city of their dead. Here generation after generation, since the days of David and Solomon, have been gathered unto their fathers. For thousands of years the Jewish dead have been interred here ; the dust of the children mingling with the ashes of their fore- fathers, until a large portion of the east bank of the valley, and far uj) the side of the Mount of Olives is covered with the tombs of the countless descendants of Abraham : the dying Jew still craving it as one of the greatest privileges to be inten-ed here. For here they believe the coming Messiah will stand in the resurrection. In the bottom of this valley is the bed of the Brook Kedron, which is now dry for a considerable distance below the city, except in the rainy season. V>^ NO. 64. — VILLAGE OF SILOAM. The modern village of Siloam is nearly opposite the Fountain of the Virgin, on the eastern bank of the Valley of Jehoshaphat. The steep declivity on which it stands is covered with ancient tombs. It is a wretched place, containing about seventy dwellings, formed by dispossessing the dead of their tombs, M^alling up the fronts, and transforming them into abodes for the living. Their interiors present a gloomy and filthy appearance; human bones still remaining in many of them. The appearance of the inhabitants is in keeping with their miserable dwell- ings ; and their reputation for rudeness and lawless- Jk. w » 8 « A or fM- s^c 79 ness is such, that the prudent traveler gives the place a wide birth after nightfall. ANCIENT TOMBS. Just above this village in the side of the hill are many tombs and vaults. Among them are those of Zacheas, Absalom, and the cave of St. James. The tomb of Zacheas is cut in the rock, and there was in front of it four Doric columns supporting a cornice and a pyramidal roof (18 feet high over all). The cave of St. James is ornamented with a portico in front, havino; four columns cut from the native rock. Tradition says that James, the brother of Jesus, retired to this cave after the Crucifixion. The tomb of Absalom is the most noted of these valley tombs, and is also cut from the solid rock. The dome on the roof is peculiar, terminating in a foliated tuft. The Mohammedans have idealized this into a monument of the hateful ingratitude of Absa- lom, whose example is held up as a fearful warning to all disobedient sons ; therefore every passer-by is supposed to cast a stone at it with appropriate mal- edictions. Tlie whole vicinity is occupied by graves which are covered with flat stones inscribed in Hebrew or Ara- bic. THE VALLEY OF HINNOM. Opposite Jaffa Gate this valley is about one hun- di-ed yards wide, and forty-four feet deep. From this point its course is first south, then east around ii Zion, past the south end of the city to its junction with the valley of Jehoshaphat. Above the lower pool of Gihou it falls gradually, but at a short distance below this pool it commences to deepen rapidly, and continues to fall until it reaches En Eogel. A short distance above this, it is a deep, gloomy dell. In many places the bottom of this valley is covered with loose stones, yet it is cultivated, and portions of it abound with olive-trees. Along the south side of the, valley is a steep, rocky ledge, nearly the whole surface of which is covered and penetrated by tombs. These tombs are of many shapes and different sizes, some small and plainly constructed, while others are very large, and penetrate far into the hillside. In the upper part of the valley there is a large rock, a part of which has been leveled and made as smooth as a house-floor. This was an ancient threshing-floor, Buch as Araunah the Jebusite had on Mount Moriali. ACELDAMA. THE FIELD OF BLOOD. This place is just across the valley of Ilinnom, near its junction with Jehoshaphat. It is a rocky cliff, full of tombs ; portions of the front of Aceldama have been walled up, and behind this are deep excavations and gloomy sepulchral passages. In some places large quantities of human bones and skulls are seen scat- tered about in pi'omiscuous confusion. This is the field which was purchased with the thirty pieces of silver received by Judas for the betrayal of Christ. " Then Judas, which had betrayed him, when he saw that he was condemned, repented himself, and brought again the thirty pieces of silver to the chief i^g^MMrfet?^ priests and elders, saying, I have sinned, in that I have betrayed the innocent blood. And they saidj AVhat is that to us? See thon to tliat. And he cast down the pieces of silver in the temple, and went and hanged himself. And the chief priests took the sil- ver pieces, and said, It is not lawful for to put them into the treasury, because it is the price of blood. And they took counsel, and bought with them the potter's field, to bury strangers in " (St. Matthew xxvii.). MOUNT OF OFFENCE. This mount or hill is across the valley of Jehosha- phat to the eastward of the pool of Siloam. " He built an high place for Chemosh, the abomination of Moab, in the hill that is before Jerusalem, and for Moloch, tlie abomination of the children of Ammon, and like- wise did he for all his strange wives, which burned incense and sacrificed unto their gods" (1 Kings xi.). A short distance below this, in the valley, was Tophet. Under the apostate kings of Judah this portion of the valley became the seat of the most horrible idolatrous services. Here "Moloch, horrid king, besmeared with the blood of human sacrifices and parents' tears," had his o-roves and altars. SCOPAS. At a short distance north of the city is the high ridge of Scopas. As there are none of the ravines on this side which form the natural defences of the other sides of the city, this side was usually the point from which it was attacked by its enemies. The camp of Titus was on this ridge, and from this point A*, ui f m M he commenced the sici:;e which ended in such destruc tion and ruin to the city. TUE MOUNT OF OLIVES CALLED BY THE ARABS JEBEl ET TUE. This mount lies east of the city, and is separated from it by the valley of Jelioshaphat. Its height above the valley varies from 500 to 680 feet. It ia 250 feet above the Temple area on Mount Moriali, BO that it commands a fine view of many points of interest ; first, Jehoshaphat, Gethsemane, and the Kidron ; then, beyond these, the ancient walls, domes, and minarets of the city. Far away to tlie south, from among a group of smaller hills, rises Bethliace- rem, where Herod had his paradise, and wliere liis bones are supposed to be interred. To the eastward is the hill country of Judea, with the wilderness, gloomy and sterile; a rough mountainous region, whose deep yawning chasms form secure hiding- places for Bedouin robbers and beasts of prey. Olivet was once very fertile, and was covered with beautiful gardens and olive orchards ; but, with the exception of small portions of the eastern side, tlie soil has long since been exhausted, so that only a few olive and fig trees are to be seen, and no signs of cultiva- tion, except an occasional patch of barley inclosed by a tottering stone wall. rnE ROAD OVER WHICH CHRIST RODE INTO JERUSALEM. On the Engv. will be seen the road to Bethany, winding around the southern base of the Mount of Olives. It was over this road that Christ rode into ^ m V' ir W Jerusalem. " And it came to pass that when he was come nigh to Bethphage and Bethany,* at the mount called the Mount of Ohves, he sent two of his disci- ples, saying. Go ye into the village over againstyoi*/ in the which at your entering ye shall find a colt tied, whereon yet never man sat : loose him, and bring Idin hither. And they brought him to Jesus : and they cast their garments upon the colt, and they set Jesus thereon, and as he went they spread their clothes in the way" (St. Luke xix. 29, 30, 35, 36). * These villages axe on the eastern side of the Mount of Olives. A CONCERNING THE TEMPLE OF KING SOLOMON. Mount Moriah — The Temjple Area, or Enclosure— Wilson^ Arch — RoUnson^s Arch— Masonic Ilall — Foundation Walls of the Temjple — South, West, and East Gates— Dome of the Boch— Mosque El Aksa—The great Subterranean Quarry. MOUNT MOEIAH. This spur or plateau is between the valley of Je- hosliaphat on the east, and the Tyropoeon valley on the west, and is just within the walls of the city on the east. Its hight at the Dome of the Kock above the valley of Jehoshaphat is 140 feet, and above the Mediterranean, 2,436. By reference to No. 58 on the engv. an idea of its original appearance may be formed. To the Christian world, this is a spot of great in- terest, for here once stood the magnificent Temple of Kino- Solomon, which was dedicated to the worship of tlie Most High, and was the favored house of God. In it was the Holy of Holies, and it was the repository of the Ark of the Covenant. ^m IL .i«. I If •-vf^ 5ci w m 88 To Masons this is also a place of great importance and interest, as the Temple was erected by the ancient craftsmen, of whom King Solomon and the two Hi- rams were the first Grand Masters. The foundation of King Solomon's Temple was laid 1012 B.C. (a. m. 2992), in the month of May (Zif). The history of this great edifice introduces tlie three M'orthies, Solomon, King of Israel; Hiram, King of Tyi-e ; and Hiram the builder (Abif ), who formed a society for mutual assistance in counsel^ skill, and wisdom, that they might the better con- trive and execute the designs for the various grand structures proposed by Solomon, including of necessity the management of the large number of mechanics, artisans, overseers, and laborers required to carry on all those enterprises. The peculiar wisdom of these measures will be seen when it is stated that Solomon, at the time of his coronation as king, was but 19 years old. The writings of Josephus confirm the Scripture accomit of the friendly relations between Solomon and Hiram, King of Tyre, and also between David and Hiram. Tliey exchanged presents, and, accord- ing to oriental custom, propounded problems and difficult questions one to the other (see 2 Chron. ix.). The correspondence between the two kings on the building of the Temple was preserved among the Tyrian archives in the days of Josephus (Ant. viii. 2, 8), who gives copies of the letters. Eupolemon also mentions the letters and gives copies of those between Solomon and Hiram, also between Solomon and Apries (see Eusebius, Prae. Evang., ix. 30). Mi \m\ ^- Tlie long peace between the two nations, the Jews and the Phoenicians, which was never really broken by either side, can be safely referred to the inilneuce of the secret and mysterious tie which bound the principal persons of both people into a common brotherhood. Moses was initiated into the mysteries of the Sacked Oeder of Priests in Eg>"]3t before he was permitted to marry a daughter of a priest. He afterwards transmitted those mysteries to the Jewish people. Joshua continued them • and Solomon, associated with the two Ilirams, adapted the whole system, to the laios and customs of the jpeojple of Palestine* Phoenician historians give an account of a mar- riage between Solomon and a daughter of Hiram, Iving of Tyre. (See Tatian. Grnec. § 37.) Jewish writers pass lightly over the fact that Iliram the Iving was not circumcised, and have a tradition that because he was a God-fearing man, and assisted in building the Temple, he was translated alive into Paradise. Of Iliram Abif it is i-ecorded that he was of a mixed race, Jewish and Phoenician, of the tribe of Naphtali. His father — from whqm he inherited his eminent abilities, and learned the details of his call ing — was a Tyrian, skilled in the arts of working metals, wood, and cloth, for ornamentation in architec- ture, also articles for public and private luxury and display. Hiram was appointed chief architect and engineer by Hiram, King of Tyre, and sent to Jeru- salem to assist Solomon. His title of Abif (our father) was given as a recognition of his dignity and * See Egyptian Mysteries, page 431. W>t acquirements, and his exalted and useful position, which he adorned by faithful and excellent service. The title was given after an ancient oriental custom — many instances of its observance being famihar to readers of history, as that of Joseph in Egypt, who says, " God hath made me a father to Pharaoh " (Gen. xlv. 8) ; and also in Maccabees (1 xi, 32), the term is used as a mark of respect and esteem, and nearly all Roman coins have among other titles that of "father," as given to the emperor. "We have preserved but few details of the life of Iliram, King of Tyre. That he was master and over- seer of his people who were in the service of Solomon is recorded, and he was long remembered as such. A complete description of the Temple of Solomon is given in Kings, Chronicles, Ezekiel, and Jeremiah. The two pillars, jAcnnsr and Boaz, are minutely de- scribed in Kings and Jeremiah ; Ezekiel also men- tions two pillars — one on each side of the entrance. Josephus writes about the great stones and of the foundation wall with understanding, because he saw them (as well as Herod's Temple, which was an en- largement of Zerubbabel's), and within a few years past the Palestine Exploration Society ha? verified many of his accounts. The great stones which were* sawed with saws (1 Kings vii. 9) lie just where they were placed by the builders, still bearing their craft-marks or direc- tions for placing them. The lower courses w^ere pro- tected from wear and the action of the elements, by the dirt, mingled with stones, chips, etc., which wag piled against them, and has never been disturbed un- V Or T^ ^:, 1 lit til recently. The soil above this layer was full of pot tery, glass, etc., the usual evidences of occupation and use. Some of these stones are 6 feet or more thick; and 15 to 30 long. Their peculiar faces are shown on the plan — No. 58. TEMPLE AEEA OE ENCLOSURE, MARKED A A A A ON THE PLAN. The Temple area is 1,500 feet long, by an average width of 950 ; not regular, but as shown on the plan. The walls enclosing it are from 8 to 10 feet thick at the base, and 3 to 4 at the top, and 50 to 75 high abov^e the present surface outside ; and 10 or 12 feet above the floor. The ground is highest at the N.W. corner, and slopes south and east. The original hill (see No. 58) was very uneven and sloping, nowhere having a level place large enough for the proposed temple ; it was therefore necessary to build up a large platform, which was done by piers or columns arched over and filled in at the top with stone and earth. (Ant., XY., xi. 3.) These substructures are still in their original posi tion, and are veiy minutely described by Dr. Barclay (City of the Great King), who measured them care- fully, when employed as an assistant to the Chief Engineer of Repairs by the Pasha of Jerusalem. They extend across the southern end of the Temple area, being the highest at the s. e. corner, and from north to south from 1S6 to 217 feet. The piers vary in size from 3 to 8 feet square, a,' A' i I f i\ w 11 ■Si ')ik31 and in higlit from 30 down to 2 or 3 feet, as tlie rock slopes. The Triple Gate (51 feet wide and 25 feet high) once opened into these galleries, which ^ f'^iiy^^^'^^'^'^^' I'i/ife^ I Piers aud Vaults. — Foundations of the Temple. are called Solomon's stables ; there are three passages leading from them up to the area above, one of whicli is 247 feet long, the others shorter. It is supposed that this was the passage for the animals for the sac- rifices, because the ascent is gradual all the way. A«l ^m \h %] ■'''fi //iVi Wi mil m mm. m Tliere is a small doorway with a pointed arch 1 05 Coot from the S.E. comer of the south wall, which was the stable-door leading into the splendid colon- nade. These vaults are mentioned by El. Alemi, in 1495. THE ANCrENT GATES OF THE TEMPLE ENCLOSUEE. No. 6. — The ancient South Gate, now Double Gate, alluded to by Josephus (Ant., XY. xi. 5), has all the marks of Jewish architecture, with an addition of Ro- man work outside. Originally the doors were 18 feet wide and 20 high. In the inside there is an entrance hall 50 feet long and 40 wide, having in the centre a column 21 feet high and 6 feet in diameter, of a single block of limestone. Its capital is ornamented with large leaves, finely sculptured in stone, but not in any architectural order ; and resting on this capital are the springs of four arches, which support four domeg forminof the ceilinsj of tlie room. It has been Ro- manized by four white marble columns which adorn the doorway. The sides of the hall are built of huge blocks of limestone, cut with the peculiar Jewish panel ; the term bevelling is applied to the Jewisli rebatement, which is a chamiel cut a half -inch, less or more, deep all around the edge of a block on the same level plane as the face, and never slanted or bevelled. Fj-om this entrance hall a flight of nine stone-steps (in the midst of wliich stands a stone pillar oval, 6 feet high by 4 feet in diameter) leads up to a pas- sage 259 feet long, which is divided by piers, pillars^ m %s m w u m ml ^n: and a wall ; is vaulted over each half the entire length and bears every mark of Jewish make. Another flight of stone steps leads to the area above. This is the ancient South Gate of the Teisiple. ISTo. 7. — On the west side of the Temple area is an ancient doorway walled up, built against by modern houses and nearly all hidden ; only half of the lintel being in view. It was 40 feet wide and 40 deep. The lintel is 6 feet 9 inches thick. A flight of steps in- side formed an approach to the area above, as at Huldah Gate. On the inside may be seen a closed gateway, so covered up with modern rooms as to be almost hidden. Some of the stones are very large — 15 to 25 feet long and 8 or 9 feet deep. This was the West Gate of the Temple. No. 12. — The ancient entrance to the Temple En- closure on the east is now walled up and kept closed by the Mohammedans, because of a superstitious fear that the Christians will enter by this gate and drive them out. The length is 70 feet and breadth 55, and it pro- jects 6 feet beyond the wall ; two colmnns divide it into a double arcade lighted at the west end by two domes. The columns are formed out of single blocks -of marble, and the walls are eleven feet thick. The style is ancient, and its interior is ornamented -with rich and elaborate carvings in the Grecian style. The effect of the whole is grand and imposing. A grand stairway of massive stone blocks leads from the gate up to the platform, which is 25 feet above. This was the East Gate, called by the Crusa- ders the Golden Gate (Porta Aurea). Josephue 18 silent about gates on the north, but the Jewish Mid- doth (Book of Measures) says the north wall was neai-er to the Temple and had but one gate, called Tedi. The same authority says it was a small gate and for a special purpose. There is a flight of stone steps in front of the Golden Gate, now buried under rubbish and soil, the deposit of centuries since the Crusades. The wi-iters of that age speak of many steps " that lead down to tlie valley." The whole of the space outside of the wall in the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and especially on the east of the Temple site, is used as a cemetery, and every available foot of soil has been occupied over and over many times, and always guarded with super- stitious fidelity against all " infidel " intrusion. It is therefore only possible to examine the locality by underground passages. A Mohammedan, in a.d. 1150, describes the chief buildings very much as they are now ; and also that the Door of Mercy (Golden Gate) was closed, but passage was had through the small one, El Asbat (the tribes), a bow-shot from which was a large and beautiful church, dedicated to St. Mary and called Gethsemane. NO. 1, TEMPLE AREA. THE DOME OF THE ROCK — MOSQUE OF OMAE. This splendid edifice stands nearly in the centre of the Temple area (see engv.*). It is eight-sided 170 feet in diameter, and about the same height, cov- ered outside with beautifully colored porcelain tiles ; tlie roof and dome are covered with copper ; the dome is very symmetrical and graceful, and is tipped with * Engraving. a lofty bronzed crescent. The lower part of the octago- nal sides is covered with marble of various colors and patterns. On entering, the visitor is at once impressed with its exquisite proportions, the simplicity of the de- sign, and admirable finish. The 16 stained glass windows of the circular upper building are pecuhar in richness^ harmony of color, and elegance of design. The lower octagon has 56 windows, over each one of which are sculptured sen- tences fi'om the Koran in letters which are measm-ed by feet in height. There is a harmony of color every- ^^here,— in the wmdows of stained glass, the colored marble pillars and walls, porphyry columns, gilded capitals, and rosettes of the ceiling; the rich canopy of crimson and green silk over the rock in the centre; on every side masses, and groups, and points of blue, red, purple, yellow, gold, and crimson, intensi- fied by the rays of the sun, or mellowed by the gloom, which carries the beholder in imagination back to the days of the Magnificent Caliphs, whose works have been the wonder and delight of ages, both in romance and reality. The central dome is ^^ feet in diameter. Oc- cuppng the centre of this rotunda is the BACEED KOCK. This rock is about 60 feet long from north to south, and about 50 broad ; it rises several feet above the floor of the Mosque, and is surrounded by a gilded iron fence, seven feet high and very strongly built, while over it is stretched a rich a%vning of parti- colored silk. What sacred and interesting associations >^^ ■^ ill cluster around this spot ! for the Kabbins say tbat thia is the identical rock on which Jacob pillowed his head during that eventful dream ; on which Abraham offei-ed Isaac, and where Da^-id saw the Angel, and wliere Jesus was laid after the crucifixion ; — the rock that afterwards became the altar of burnt-offering for the great Temple of Solomon, It is hollowed into a liandsome chamber, fifteen feet square by eight feet high, called the Noble Cave. An ornamented floor (tessellated) covers a passage into some unkno^vn excavations below, but the superstitious fears of the Moslems prevents any examination, for they say that here is the well of souls, the real opening into Hades ! The most ancient account of tliis structure is that it was built by Constantine the Great and his mother Helena. A pilgrim of the 12th century copies some inscriptions widtten by the Christians on the places where there are now Arabic sentences from the Komn, which were doubtless placed over the first by Saladin. The building stands on an artificial platform about 15 feet high, which is reached by eight gateways (wdth stone steps) in elegant Saracen style. The Mohammedan believes that in tliis dome, next to Mecca, prayers are most acceptable to God, above aU other places in the world. NO. 2. THE MOSQUE EL AKSA. This Mosque stands near the south-west comer of tlie Temple area (see engv), and is a showy and elegant building, 2S0 feet long and 1S3 broad, with a dome nearly as large and higli as the Dome of the Rock. It was originally in the form of a cross, bu from additions by the Crusaders it is now a parallel- ogram. It has been altered and remodelled so many times that it cannot now be said to belong to any particular style of architecture, unless it is the Composite. Some interesting coincidences in the style, &c., to the Temple of Solomon, are found in an Egyptian Temple at Edfoo, in Egypt. There is a porch with an entrance between two pillars, leading to a court wliich is surrounded with pillars ; and winding stairs (by square, not spiral, steps), leading to a middle chamber, from which the sanctuary was reached, and only by the initiated (see 1 Kings vi. 8). Near the Mosque El Aksa is the Mogrebins Mosque — No. 3. Under the southwest corner of the Temple area, beneath a part of the Aksa Mosque, there are immense cisterns, one of which is, no doubt, the sea mentioned by the son of Sirach, and the Commissioner of Ptolemy. This body of water is 736 feet in circum- ference, and 42 feet deep. — No. 4. The roof is supported by rude stone pillars, which were once cased with metal, but are now bare or plastered. Its capacity is about two million gallons. Eight openings for drawing up water were formerly in use, but now only one is open. It ma,y be entered from above by a flight of 44 wide stone steps, cut in the rock. The aqueduct from Solomon's pool ended in this great subterranean reservoir. f^ Ancient Artificial Cave under the Temple Area — Noble Cave. King Solomon's 6iH*eriia. '"'fVER 8 fry i ¥M: 103 WILSON S ARCH. This arch was discovered in 1SG6 by Capt. Wilson, R.E., when making explorations in the city for a better water snpply. From the discovery of this arch originated the idea of a scientific exploration in and about the Temple area, which was developed in the Palesthie Exploration Fund and Society, whose ex- plorations have been carried on under the direction of Capt. Warren, R.E., who has discovered the founda- tion walls of the Temple enclosure in many places, together with arches, vaults, and secret passages con- nected therewith, outside and inside of the Temple area, Wilson's Arch is just outside of the gate of the chain under the street called David, and 15 feet be- low the present surface of the ground. This arch has a span of 42 feet, and is 43 feet wide. Portions of it are in ruins, and the walls are much decayed. At 3i feet below the springing of the arch, a bed of hard concrete is found formed of small cubical stones set in a dark cement. At 24 feet, voussoirs and drafted stones of a fallen arch and well, are found, the stones being similar to those in the Sanctuary Wall.* At 40 feet water is found, which appears to run in at the northern end of the shaft, and run out at the southern end. At 51 feet 9 inches, the bottom course of the foundation wall of thfe Temple enclosure is seen resting in a groove which was cut in the rock f for the better security of the wall. * Wall of the Temple Enclosure. ■{• Nearly the whole siu-f ace of Moriah is a limestone rock. 7/M W Iitx\ The whole of the wall exposed here is evidently in its original position, and consists of 21 courses of drafted stones, averaging from 3 feet 8 inches to 4 feet in hight, the wall now being 75 feet above the rock. The corbels on the haunches of the north side of the arch appear to have supported a balcony — the continuation of a secret passage, which entered the Sanctuary Wall just south of Wilson's Arch. Wlien this wall was first built, it was exposed to view from its foundation upwards. It is one of the oldest por- tions of the enclosure of the Sanctuary now remain- ing, and is held in great veneration by the Jews, as they claim this to be the Wall of the Sanctuary. Connected with Wilson's Arch there has recently been discovered by Capt. Warren, a large number of vaults, arches, and secret passages leading in various directions, but, wdth the exception of Wilson's Arch, probably none of them have ever been exposed to view, as they were undoubtedly used as secret stores for j)rovisions and water in the time of sieges. MASONIC HALL. In one of the passages from Wilson's Arch leading west,is an opening that leads down into an ancient vault or chamber, which from tradition has ac(][uired the name of Masonic Hall. The entrance opens down to it from the north, and the passage is steep and shelving, and at first the explorer could only gain access by being lowered into it by means of a rope, but the aperture has been enlarged so that a laddej- is tiow used. This chamber is 30 feet 8 inches in length l^y 23 feet in width, rectangular and \ aulted ; ^fc"''1l""'''i"ir''i'ri| i'l'fi,; ilTpriiiiBifV^ lor the walls are built of square stones, well jointed, and laid without cement. There were pilasters at each corner, but only the one at the north-east angle re- mains in a moderate state of preservation (see cut) Nearly in the centre of the chamber is a part of a column or pedestal sticking up. At the south-east angle was a double entrance with lintels over it: these have ornaments on them and on the jambs, but they cannot now be accurately traced. This Hall has every appearance of being one of the most an- cient pieces of masonry in Jerusalem. Through a small hole in the south wall of this chamber, a passage is found leading into one of the Saracenic vaults sup- porting the Hall of Justice. There is still another passage leading from this vault south into another, which is now filled with debris and earth. A short distance from Masonic Hall is a secret passage lead- ing under David Street ; this passage is about 12 feet wide and is nearly filled with rubbish; it has been traced 250 feet in the direction of the Joppa Giite, which was doul)tlcss its ancient termination. ''Oi*i..'»l(lP5ii!iJi.>»,j, ,, ."tlX^,., . ^.'1 ^S^^^SS EOBINSON S AKCH. This arch is outside of the south-west corner of the Sanctuary Wall, opposite the Mogrebin's Mosque (see Temple Area), and is considered to have been the entrance to the royal cloisters of King Ilerod. Sev- enty-four feet below the springing of this arch is a rock-cut canal, 4 feet wide, and 12 feet deep, running south. Jammed in over this canal are two fallen voussoii's of an arch. One of these is much de- cayed, but the other is in a better state of preser- vation, and measures 7 feet in length, 5 feet thick at the extrados, 4 feet 4 inches at the intrados, and 4 feet high. In the middle of one side is a square joggle hole 14 inches by 11 and 4|^ inches deep. Opening out of this canal to the south, is a chamber cut in rock, with a segment arch. To the south a passage leads into a circular cistern cut in the rock, 16 feet in diameter, by 14 feet 4 inches in hiffht. In the centre of the roof is a manhole lead- ing down from the roof of the pavement under Robinson's Arch. Near this are two curious rock-cut chambers, rectangular, and measuring 16 feet by 6 feet. In one of them is a flight of steps leading up above. Also, a base of a column which had fallen in through the roof. Several lamps, weights, jars, and an iron bar were found in this canal ; also an ancient Btone roller for rolling flat roofs on houses, precisely like the rollers now used for the same purpose. Several excavations have been made in the vicinity of Robinson's Arch, in making one of which at a VA \ \. ^6\ ^^ % depth of 21 feet 6 inches, a polished limestone slab 6 feet scpiare was found covering the main sewer of the city. This sewer is 6 feet high by 3 feet wide, cut in the rock, nearly full of sewage, through which a current of water runs south. This is doubtless the sewer through which the fellahin entered the city, in the time of Ibrahim Pacha ;they aj^pear to have pen- etrated up as far as David Street and found exit through some of the vaults there. In sinking a shaft near this the remains of a colonnade were found just below the surface, consisting of piers built on the rock 12 feet 6 inches apart, with fallen arches be- tween. These piers wore built of well-dressed ashlar of soft sand-stone, similar to the ruins of Suwaineh in the Jordan Valley. In sinking another shaft the debris of a stone build- ing, and part of a white marble column twelve inches in diameter, were found. Twenty-two feet below this is a chamber cut in the rock, ten feet square, and ten feet high, covered with plaster two inches thick and very hard. Entrance to this cham- ber was effected through two manholes through the roof, and it has the appearance of having been used as a secret store for grain. Twenty feet to the south of the Gate of the Bath is a large cistern, which runs east and west and piei'ces the Sanctuary "Wall. Near the Effendi'a house is another cistern or rather prolongation of the first, but narrower. At this place it is thirty-foui feet six inches from the surface of the ground to the bottom, width twelve feet, and length from east to west fourteen feet nine inches. A surface of twenty I \|5fc(^# '^« eight feet in Light by twelve in length of tlie Sanctuary Wall is exposed at this place. From an excavation made near the Sanctuary "Wall on the east side of the Temple enclosure, a small passage was found which leads downwards, passing through the roof of, and into another passage, which runs east and west. This latter passage is three feet nine inches high by two feet wide, running nearly horizontal, and at its eastern end opens through the Wall of the Sanctuary, and is closed by a large stone having three cylindrical holes through it five and one- half inches in diameter each, tkrough which water at some former period ran. It is probable that troops defending this part of the wall came down here for water. \mi THE TOWER OF ANTONIA. This tower was at the north-east angle of the Temple enclosure, and was built up from the Sanctuary Wall ; the outside was formed by that portion of the wall con- tinuing to recede from four to seven inches, while that forming the tower recedes only one and one- quai'ter inches, so that at twenty-two feet from where the tower begins the slant inwards is two feet, and at the surface, forty feet above, the slant amounts to seven feet. DISCOVEEY AT ST. STEPHEN S GATE. An excavation was made outside of this gate. Wlien at a depth of six feet a flat stone was found, which, sounding hollow, an aperture was made through it, when a' circular cave was exposed to view that UNIVF. \. S' iK^ I ' m m j^,^>N ! 'S was found to be nine feet in diameter and four feet high ; it is divided into five loculi by plaster partitions about thi-ee inches thick and twelve inches high, and had been used as a tomb. A shaft leads down from this into another chamber twenty-six feet long by six feet wide, which is divided latitudinally into ten loculi. Another passage leads into two other and similar cliambei-Sjalso divided into loculi. A shaft forty feet deep leads from this down into another range of these singular chambers, nine in number, one of which has the appearance of having been used as an ante-room, the rest were divided into loculi. These chambei-s were cut in a very soft kind of melekeh and are nearly on a plan with the Phoeni- cian tombs at Saida, as they are systematically arran- ged tier upon tier with shafts leading down through them. In making these excavations ancient pottery and glass vases were found at various depths. EUmS AT DAMASCUS GATE. One of the most interesting relics of antiquity is found in an ancient tower at the Damascus gate. This structure is very massive, and bears the peculiar Jewish marks similar to the Temple area walls. The lower courses of the city wall, for some distance on each side of the gate, bear the same character of large blocks, beveled edge, with the whole surface hewn SKioothj exhibiting an earlier and more careful style than most other walls here. In the tower on the east side of the gate there is a flight of winding stairs of square steps, with square turnings — not spiral — meas- uring 7 feet long by 3 wide. This was the kind oi stairway leading to the middle chamber in the Tern pie porch (1 Kings vi. 8). WAILING PLACE OF THE JEWS. — No, 60. A short distance below David Street, in the foim- dation-wall of the Temple enclosure, are several courses of large stones, bearing the Jewish bevel, and other marks of great antiquity. They were doubtless placed here by Solomon's buildei*s when the foundation of the Temple was laid. These are the Stones of Wailing, and this is the nearest that the Jews are now permitted to come to their ancient place of worship and sacrifice. This place is resorted to at all times by the devout, but Friday afternoon is the set time for Jews to meet here to mourn and weep for their departed power, the glory of their ancient city, and the hallowed and glorious associations of the Temple. And thus they may be seen. Old men with white flowing beards, young men in the vigor of manhood, aged women, and rosy-cheeked girls ; some sitting, some standing, some leaning their heads affectionately against these ancient time-worn stones, frequently giving vent to their grief in loud weeping and wailing. Second only in interest to the Temple Area are the ruins of the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem. This building was erected by the Knight Templars, (Hospitallers) of Jerusalem, in the time of the Crusades, and its magnificence may be gathered from accounts of it by ancient writers, and fi'om ruins of it still standing, with remains of quaint carvings, and traces of colors. The style seems to have been that of an mk ///A r i ii Oriental Khan, being a vast qnadrangular structure ai'ound an interior court, the chambers opening on the galleries. There are marks found on the walls, and niany curious ornaments sculptured in the cornice. The Great Hospital of St. John is described as standing a.d. 1322, by Sir John Mandeville, as a pal- ace supported and ornamented by 178 stone pillars. The order of Knights Templar was gathered from the nobles of all Europe, and M^as at first chari- table,for the relief of pilgrims, but afterwards became religious and military. They were recognized as an oi'der as late as 1800, at which time Malta was restored to them by England and France, when Paul, the Em- peror of Russia, was the Grand Master. But England now holds the island, and the knights have lost all dominion and power. The gateway of the ruined hospital in Jerusalem is still standing, though very ruinous. It presents a flattened pointed arch, which is succeeded by a round arch behind, ornamented with rich historical and emblematical carvings in stone. Among many finely designed and chiselled figures may be seen the Laisib, which was the peculiar emblem of the order. There are broken stairs, a court suri-ounded by a cloister in ruins, with the remains of several rooms, also the remains of the chapel, large, and ornamented with a window, with stained or painted glass. This monastery was founded in honor of St. John the Bap- tist (Saewolf, A.D. 1102). These mouldering ruins are memorials of the nol)le order of Kniglits, whose strong arms were for ages the bulwark against the aggressive Moslems, and fc^N H m m W whose deeds have made the names of Acre, RhodeSj and Malta, stir the heart of many readers of ancient history. Every remnant of this remarkable edifice also in- dicates the handiwork of the same craftsmen who erected the Temple of Solomon, as its emblems, signs, and inscriptions are closely analogous to those found on the ruins about the Temple Area, other ruiuB in Palestine, and in the Cathedrals of Europe, especially, in the ancient Cathedi-al in Glasgow, where may be seen characters nearly identical with those foimd on the Sanctuary Walls at Jerasalem. 1^1 THE PKIVATE MAKKS OF THE BUILDERS AND THE GREAT SUBTERRANEAN QUARRY. Marks found on Stones in the Foundation Walh of the Temjple Area. — Marks found in Samaria and in Hebron. — The Great Subterranean Quarry. It is a matter of the highest interest, while carrying on antiquarian researches, to discover the evidences which preceded us in our particular calling. Although Free Masonry is now speculative, still there was a time when the Master Mason was the real director of the construction of Beautiful Edifices, of which the Magnificent Temple of Solomon, and latterly the wonderful Cathedrals dotted all over Europe, are specimens ; the evidences of which work in the written record has long been familiar on the page of history, but the symbolic private marks of the builders, used by the master workman, for the guidance of the craft in laying the stones in their places, liave escaped their proper notice. Many of these marks have been found on stones, in the founda- tion walls of the Temple enclosure, at Jerusalem. They are also found in other parts of Palestine, and in every country where the Craft have since left evi- dences of their skill and industry. These marks have been found on a large number of stones, in different courses in tlie Sanctuary Wall, and having been covered with earth, were protected from the action of the elements, and the busy hands of men. The few of which sketches are given, give a com- plete idea of the whole, as they are almost repetitions of similar characters, found wherever edifices and other works have been constructed by the Craft, and were doubtless put on by the Master workmen to in- dicate the position of the stones in the walls or struc- tures where found. These marks have been found on the east of Jordan, on the stones of Palmyra, Bozrah, and other cities that were built since the time of Solomon, and, wherever the characters are found, they are of the same style and color, being made with red paint. The base of this paint is red chalk, which is a natural production and nearly inde- structible by time or the action of the elements. It is found on the Egyptian monuments, where it has stood fresh and bright for 35 centuries. Several of the groups of these characters were re- cently discovered by Captain Warren, K. E., while carrying on explorations around the south-east corner of the Sanctuary Wall (wall of the Temple enclos- ure). A shaft was sunk at about twenty feet south- east of this corner of the wall, and at a depth of fifty- three feet a gallery was excavated westward, which reached the Wall about six feet north of the corner ; from this point galleries and shafts were excavated which uncovered the wall at several places, and here were found most of the following groups of tliese marks : — Group No. 1 was found cut in on stones in the third and fifth courses. -:a mn \ UNIVE.. ^Ln or '^ No. 2 was found on the second stone from the corner in the second course — made with red paint. No. 3 was on the wall a short distance from Group No. 2. No. 4 was on the corner-stone in the third course — red paint. No. 5. This Group was found in that part of the gallery where the explorer is seen examining the marks on the wall. These marks resemble the letters O Y Q — red paint. No. 6 was on the third stone north in the second course — red paint. No. 7 was on the sixth stone in the third coui-se, and on a stone in the tenth course a small cross was found cut in. No. 8. This group was found on stones in the west wall of the Sanctuary, near the Jews' wailing-place ; and at the base of the Tower of Antonia, nortli-east angle of the wall, was found another group of marks ill red paint. No. 9. Found in a cave near the Coenaculum. No. 10 is a group of marks gathered fi'om the ancient structures of Kuryet el Enab, and also known as Abu Gosh village, the Emmaus of the time of Christ, and the more ancient Kirjath Jearim of Solomon's age. Here are several very neatly made and familiar figures, not unlike some in use at this day. They were very clearly drawn, in red color, as nearly all of such marks are, in every country where the craft have had use for them. The group No. 11, from Samaria, claims equal attention for their peculiar design and evident anti- kU'^: :Al C<- '^''^^ ^ m m §' quity. The structm-es at Samaria date from the time of Shemer, who was nearly contemporary with Solo- mon, and in style, design, and finish, as far as the remains liave been examined, they carry the evidence of originality with them, and the work of the buildera of the age of the thi-ee grand masters. Xo. 12 is on a stone at Beeroth, and looks familiar with its letters so like our K and R, with a cross and arrow, and at first glance suggests some of the mono- grams of Constantine, or Charlemagne, but a closer insf)ection determines them to be separate and dis- tinct signs, not connected, as if for a name. No. 13. This cross was found on a stone among the rubbish at the foot of the wall near the Damascus Gate. Nos. 14, 15, and 16 were discovered by A. L. Raw- son, who, disguised as a Mohammedan student of law, (Katib or Scribe) visited the ancient mosque at He- bron, and made sketches of the interior of the tombs, also the inscriptions, marks, and devices, which were ctct in the wall in the different parts of this build- ing. There seems to have been originally a small structure, over and around which several additions have been made from age to age, until it has grown into a colossal mass of buildings, and finally thrown off its character as a church and became a mosque with lofty minarets at the corners. The walls are very ancient and portions of tliem are like the Sanctuary Wall at Jerusalem, and walla at other places, where the distinctive mark is the Phoe- nician or Hebrew bevel ; this is found on all the old parts of the wall. i! f^s m :m \ K A 125 Beneath this structure is a chamber, having for its roof a part of the floor of the mosque ; and in a recess, not now in use, were found the three groups of mai'ks. No. 17. This group was found on the walls of tlie ancient Cathedral at Glasgow. These later groups all being very similar to those found on the Sanctu- ary wall, tell the same story of the work of the ancient builders. At first glance several of the characters seen in the different groups of marks appear very much like the letters HMCRDKOW and others, but an exam- ination of the Phoenician and Ilebrew alphabets will show that these forms are only accidentally similar. The other marks are well known to the Craft, and need no explanation here. Besides the ancient marks there are characters written on the walls which were repaired or built by the fraternity during the crusades. These are distinctly Roman letters and numerals, with a very small proportion of signs, that are repetitions of those used by the ancient builders, and evidently used for the same purpose. That purpose, it is quite cer- tain, was, besides the proper placing of the stones in the walls, the designation of that part of the work which was done by any particular company or lodge. Some used the five-pointed star, others a circle divid- ed into four or six parts. A circle with a T occurs very often on different parts of the works, and cates either a large lodge, or a very industrious The antiquity of these marks may be the more tainly determined from the fact that there ar( distinctive Chi-istian emblems nor Mohammedan signs '^y^r^!f=^ ^E^^S3^ among them, only one, the cross of the Knights Tem- plar, being siibject to a date more recent than the age of Christ, except those mentioned as being on parts that had been repaired or rebuilt. The chief interest in these antiquities centres in the fact that they are evidences that a certain order of men worked together for a certain purpose, in those early times, and have left behind them, without de- sign, these signs of their occupation and method of working. That they had a uniform system of marks and signs appears from the similarity of these characteis wherever found, both in Palestine and Europe, where there are ancient moniunents or cathedi'als erected by those skilled workmen. An idea of the great extent of the systematic work done in Jerusalem alone, can be formed from a summary of the recent explorations and discoveries there. The substructions of Solomon's Temple have been almost entirely examined, and those columns aie found to be built of carefully cut stones, with the characteristic rebate or bevel at the comers, form- ing panels every few feet. These columns suppoit arches turned in the most skillful manner, and as solid as when built. A large part of the massive ancient walls of the city, has been traced out, and these, with the ruins of aqueducts, vaults, and chambers are nearly alwa^ s of the beveled style or Phoenician — which was the style of the Masonic craftsmen. I/U i/ Fold Out I^S^^:: M. among them, only one, the cross of the Knights Tem- plar, being subject to a date more recent than the age of Christ, except those mentioned as being on parts that had been repaired or rebuilt. The chief interest in these antiquities centres in the fact that they are evidences that a certain order of men worked together for a certain purpose, in those early times, and have left behind them, without de- sign, these signs of their occupation and method of working. That they had a uniform system of marks and signs appears from the similarity of these characters wherever found, both in Palestine and Europe, where there are ancient monuments or cathedi-als erected by those skilled workmen. An idea of the great extent of the systematic work done in Jerusalem alone, can be formed from a summary of the recent explorations and discoveries there. The substructions of Solomon's Temple have been almost entirely examined, and those columns are found to be built of carefully cut stones, with the characteristic rebate or bevel at the corners, form- ing panels every few feet. These columns support arches turned in the most skillful manner, and as solid as when built. A large part of the massive ancient walls of the city, has been traced out, and these, with the ruins of aqueducts, vaults, and chambers are nearly always of the beveled style or Phoenician — which was the style of the Masonic craftsmen. ml vff /iQ M £ IS ^ I •[ 'A m 11 II W G R m m Te It is only a few years since, that Dr. Barclay, an American physician and missionary, resident of Jerusalem, discovered the entrance to the ancient sub- terranean quarry, from which the great stones were taken for the foundation walls of the Temple built by Solomon. Certain passages in Kings and Chronicles were somewhat obscure until light was thrown upon them by an examination of the place where the workmen " sawed with saws, stones," " great stones," and carefully chij^ped off the rough corners, and finished the " costly stones " for those magnificent edifices which were the admiration of the age in which they were built, and the wonder of all suc- ceeding ages. The quantity of stone required for these structures was truly immense ; that of the Temple foundations alone requiring more than one million square yards of stone, which are now in position in the Avails and may be examined. This quarry is underground, and der that part of the city just north and west of the mple Area, now called Bezetha, and occupied by the Mohammedans. The entrance is a few rods east of the Damascus Gate, outside of the city wall. The largest room in the cave is 750 feet long, about 100 wide, and 30 feet Ji. Large pillars of the rock were left at intervals for the sup]K-)rt of the ponderous ceilino;. Several 1 132 smaller rooms open from the larger one ; in all of them are fomid marks of the workmen's tools. The stone is a soft limestone nearly as white and soft as chalk, and may be sawed into blocks now as it was in Solomon's time. The harder variety is a buff color, streaked with orange, and takes a fine polish. The white stone grows harder by exposure to air and water . There are many little shelves cut in the walls, on which the lamps were set, and the smoke from the burn- ing lamps can still be traced on the white walls, almost as black and sooty as though the quarrymen had left them last week instead of ages ago. "Water trickles down from the roof of the cave in many places from leaky reservoirs or drains above, and has thus formed stalactites, and the drip- pings from these have made their opposites from below, rising from the floor in some places several feet in a great variety of forms. In the most southern cave there is a spring of water, but in consequence of the limestone formation of the locality it is not sweet. There is no doubt but that the builders had an opening in the south end of the )U2:h which the stone AKCIENT LAMP. '•y . emp easily slid down to the Temple site, for the whole of the quarry is higher than the Temple area. Tliis ^^vL Plan of the Great Quarry under Jerusalem opening has not yet been found, but doubtless will be as soon as the Moliammedans will permit a search to be made. Josephus says that the Jews hid away from Titus in a cave, and there is room enough in this quarry for the population of the city to have gathered without crowding. The floor is very uneven, with a general descent south, and there are precipices formed by the workmen taking out large blocks below the level of the floor in different places.* The ground is everywhere littered with chippings and blocks of stone, large and small. There are great blocks of stone, partly quarried, still hanging to the native mass. One of these was a stone about 10 feet high and between 3 and 4 feet square. The workmen had commenced by cutting a crease upon two sides about four inches wide, and had proceeded until it was about two feet deep on each side of the block. This must have been done with a long pointed instrument having a chisel-shaped end. They had no gunpowder in those da^^s, and seem not to have understood how to split them with wedges, but literally chiselled them out ,by persevering labor. The work of cutting out this block was nearly completed, for the two grooves, one from the front and the other from the side, at right angles with each other, had * A few years since a human skeleton was found at the bottom of one of these precipices, showing that some unknown explorer had stumbled over there, and thus perished in a place which thousands of years before was thronged with the busy workmen of Solomon. » ^M^^^s^ been carried nearly to the necessary depth to allow the upright mass to be pried from its bed. The marks of the tool are as perfect as if made yesterday ; but the workmen left this, with much more unfinished work, and never returned. Who can tell why ? Was it in consequence of an attack on the city from an invading army? or was it found just at this par- ticular time that no more stone were needed ? In proof of this being the quarry from which the stone for the Temple were procured, we have the following facts : — First, the stone is the same in every respect as that of portions of the old wall still remain- ing ; second, the immense piles of chippings found in this quarry show that the stone were not only quar- ried, but dressed and finished here, — corresponding with the account, that they were brought to the Temple ready to be laid without the aid of hammer or graving tool ; third, the extreme age of this quarry, which dates hack in legends and traditions to the time of Jeremiah / lastly, there are no other great quarries near the city, from which this kind of stone could have been taken. So then this is the place, where nearly three thousand years ago the craftsmen of Solomon prepared the stone for the magnificent Temple of God. It is now a solemn and gloomy cavern ; large numbers of bats hang to the ceiling, and, aroused by the approach of the explorer, flit about his head. Occasionally a pile of bones brought in by jackals, arrest his attention, and the giving away of the earth under his feet, indicates the places where they burrowed. Darkness impenetrable and silence pro found pervade the place. The grandeur of its lofty n n 139 ceilings, its vast extent, its legends and associations, all combine to inspire the exjDlorer with feehngs of astonishment and awe. The Crusaders have left many marks on the walls, showing that this qiiarrj was kno^vn in tJieir day, also proving the antiquity of several of the signs now in use by the craft. To all who hold the common faith in the God of Abraham, the historical evidence derived from this quarry, and all the surrounding facts in proof of the truth of Scripture history is beyond price, and must be convincing to all reflecting minds. And to masons who believe in the antiquity of the origin of the order,this must be a source of great satisfaction, as this evidence, in connection with recent discoveries made about the temple area, including the private marks of the builders, leaves but little room to doubt that the order originated at the building of Solomon's Temple. i^s- THt ORIENT. 141 CHAPTER YII. PLACES HISTOEICALLY CONNECTED WITH KING SOLOMON's TEMPLE, AND THE BUILDERS. Ancient Tyre, Hiram^s Tomh — Jojppa — Mt. Leba- non — Pass of the Jordan — Sebron, its important Relics of Antiquity ; its singular Mosque, and Fanatical Inhabitants — The ruins of Beeroth — Kirjath-Jearim — Samaria, Church of St. John — King Solomon's Store Cities, Baalbek — Tadmor, and Hamath. TYRE. This ancient sea port is situated 8Y miles N. E. of Joppa, and 114 N. of Jerusalem. Accordinp^ to Josephus, Tyre was founded aLont 210 years before the building of Solomon's Temple. It was a strong city, and a stronghold in the days of David ; and it is called by Isaiah," a city whose anti- quity is of ancient days." The original Tyre stood on the mainland opposite the present town ; and at an early period bore the name of Palsetyrus, or Old Tyre. The present town stands on a rocky peninsula, which was an island un- til 350 B. C, when Alexander the Great built his famous military causeway out to it from the main land. Afterwards the accumulation of sand around, and over this causeway rendered it terra firma, thus forming the peninsula. At the period when Phoenician civilization began to bear sway over all the western world, Tyre was ISO \35 PLACES HISTOKICALLY CONNECTED WITH KING SOLOMON 3 Ancient Tyre, Siram^s Tomb — Joj>pa — Mt Leba- non — Pass of the Jordan — Hebron, its imjportant Relics of Antiquity ^ its singular Mosque, and Fanatical Inhabitants — The ruins of Beeroth — Kirjath-Jearim — Samaria, Church of St. John- King Solomon's Store Cities, Baalbek — Tadmor, and Hamath. TYRE. This ancient sea port is situated 87 miles N. E. of Joppa, and 114 N. of Jerusalem. According to Josephus, Tyre was founded about 240 years before the building of Solomon's Temple. It was a strong city, and a stronghold in the days of David ; and it is called by Isaiah," a city whose anti- quity is of ancient days." The original Tyre stood on the mainland opposite the present to\^^l ; and at an early period bore the name of Palaetyrus, or Old Tyre. The present to\m stands on a rocky peninsula, which was an island un- til 350 B. C, when Alexander the Great built his famous military causeway out to it from the main land. Afterwards the accumulation of sand around, and over this causeway rendered it terra firma, thus forming the peninsula. At the period wlien Phoenician civilization began to bear sway over all the western world. Tyre was tm wm I |- the cynosure not only of all Phoenicia,but of all the surrounding countries, and the theatre of mighty in- fluences, and of an immense commerce. At the time of Solomon and the Hirams, Tyre was one of the rich- est cities in the world, its people being among the most skillful manufacturers and builders of that period, manufacturing many articles of luxury and use, and having for customers maiiy nations. " Syria was thy merchant, by reason of the multitude of the wares of thy making : they occupied in thy fairs with emeralds, purple and broidered work, and linen, and coral, and agate." Judah, and the land of Israel, they were thy mer- chants : they traded in thy market, wheat of Minnith, and Pannag (Genseng), and honey, and oil, and balm. Damascus was thy merchant in the multitude of the wares of thy making, for the multitude of all riches; in the wine of Helbon, and white wool." (Ezek. xxvii. 17, 18.) Among the principal articles of export, were glass, sugar, and the famous Tyrian dye. Sugar-cane was cultivated to a considerable extent in the vicinity of Tyre, and sugar made, similar to that now made in the "West Indies, and other tropical regions. Hiram, King of Tyre, sent cedar wood and work- men to build David a palace (2 Sam. vii.), and he afterwards sent Hiram the widow's son, a Jew of the tribe of Naphtali, who cast the vessels of bronze ^or the Temple, King Hiram furnishing the metal, also the cedar and fir trees ; and the Jews and Phoenicians worked together, the friendship between them continuing for over a century. ^11 Afterwards, however, the Phoenicians sold Jewish children into captivity. (Joel iii. 6-8.) Carthage was planted as a colony of Tyre 869 b.c. There was a Temple at Tyre in honor of Hercules, In which he was worshiped as a god, under the name of Melkarth; and Arrian, the historian (b.c. 150), says that it was the most ancient Temple in the world. Ashtoreth was also worshiped there, who is called Diana, and Queen of Heaven. Solomon built a shrine in honor of this goddess on the Mount of Olives, opposite Jerusalem, as a token of his friendship for Hiram of Tyre. At the time of the Assyrian invasion under Shal- maneser. Tyre had acquired such vast opulence, and splendor, as to be declared by inspiration " the joyous city, the crowning city, whose merchants were prin- ces, whose traffickers were the honorable of the earth." But while this mart of nations was still in the full blaze of its magnificence, at least 125 years before it met with any serious disaster, or anything had occur- red to humble it, a series of prophetic denunciations began to be recorded against it by the inspired mes- sengers of heaven, that it should be captured and de-- stroyed by the Chaldeans, etc. — prophecies which were literally fulfilled. The history of Tyre from the commencement of its disasters till the period of its final overthrow, is replete with interest, both on account of its verifying the complete fulfillment of the prophesies against it, and of its moral lesson. After^halmaneser had conquered the kingdom of Israel, and carried its inhabitants into captivity, he turned his arms against the Phcenician cities. At (^ Byt ^^W^^S 144 this time Tyre had reached a high point of pros- perity ; it possessed Cyprus, and had planted the Bj)lendid colony of Carthage, but notwithstanding its powerful condition, several of its dependencies re- volted and joined Shalmaneser, furnishing him sixty ships, and 800 rowers. Against this fleet the Tyrians sailed with only twelve vessels, but with these they completely dispersed the enemy, taking 500 prisoners. After this engagement the King of Ass3a*ia withdrew the main body of his army, leaving only a small de- tachment to guard the great aqueduct, hoping to bring them to terms by this means, but failed, as the inhabitants supplied themselves with water from their wells. At a latter period. Nebuchadnezzar besieged the wdiole city, and nearly desti'oyed Old Tyre. After- wards, Alexander the Great besieged the city, and destroyed what remained of the old town, but the island city offered such stout resistance that lie was compelled to build a causeway out to it from the main land, and used for materials the ruins of tlie old city. When this causeway was nearly completed, a sortie from the besieged, followed by a storm nearly destroyed his works ; to repair the damages, and com- plete the causeway, he scraped together the remaining rubbish, and even the very earth of Old Tyre ; thus fulfilling this part of the prophecies. — "And they shall lay thy stones, and thy timber, and thy dust in the water." The island city was at this time surrounded by a strong wall 120 feet high, and was otherwise strongly fortified, but notwithstanding this, and the great dif- P !^/. Acuities Alexander encountered in building the cause- way, he succeeded after a period of seven months in taking this insular stronghold. He then set fire to it : 15,000 of the inhabitants escaped in ships, multi-' tildes were slain, and 30,000 were sold into slavery.-^ Subsequently the island city was partially rebuilt, and - continued to be a stronghold under the dominion of the Seleucidffi ; it then stood a siege of fourteen months from Antigonus. On the conquest of Syria by the Ro- mans, it came under their power, and is described by Strabo as being at this time a flourishing trading city, with two ports, the old harbor having become perma- nently bisected by the mole of Alexander. Jerome speaks of it in the fourth century as the most beautiful city in Phoencia, and as still trading with all the world. In the seventh century it was taken by the Saracens, and in the twelfth by the Crusaders, and remained" nearly 170 years in possession of the Christians ; dur- ing their occupation it continued to be opulent and- powerful. At this time it was fortified on the land side by strong quadruple walls, and on the sea side by .a cita- del with seven towers, yet notwithstanding these strong fortifications the city fell suddenly and in a singular manner. In A.D. 1291, the Sultan of Egypt invested Ptolemais (Acre) and took it by storm, after a siege of two months. On the same day on which Ptolemais was taken, the Tyrians embarked in their ships, and abandoned tlie city, leaving it empty ; and thus the Egyptians found it the next day. From this blow it never recovered, but continued to sink deeper, and deeper, until travelers of the sixteenth century describe it as being only a heap of ruins, broken arches and i vaults, tottering walls, and towers, with a few misera- ble inhabitants living in the vaults among the rubbish. But in 1776 some Metualis from Lebanon took pos- session of Tyre, built up the present walls, and thug laid the foundation for its partial revival. Twenty years later, according to Volney it consisted of poor huts, but which covered nearly a third of the penin- sula. Some little trade with Egypt has given it an impulse during the present century ; but the close proximity of the flourishing city of Beyroot, will at present, at least, prevent it from attaining any consid- erable enlargement. Mr. Bartlet when passing Tyre on board a steamer in 1842, thus alludes to it, " Tyre soon appeared, — a low rocky point projecting into the sea, and for the cry from her thousand ships, and crowded port, there is nothing now but silence and a few fishing boats ; and we should have sailed past the spot without no- ticing it had we not known that a great commercial city once existed there — the London of the old world." The present town stands at the junction of the island, and the isthmus formed by Alexander's cause- way, and the eastern wall includes a portion of the isthmus. On the north and west, towards the sea, the walls are so far broken away, as to be scarcely discernible. The inner port or basin on the north was formerly enclosed by a wail running from the north end of the island in a curve towards the main- land. Fragments of this wall still remain, sufiicieht to mark its course. The western shore is a ledge of rugged picturesque rocks from 15 to 20 feet high, upon which the waves of the Mediterranean dash in i mi « ceaseless surges. Between the houses of the town and the western shore is a broad strip of open land now given up to tillage.^ KUINS. The western shore is strewn from one end to the other, along the water and in it, with columns of red and grey granite of various sizes, and at the N.W. point, over forty such columns are thrown together in one heap beneath the waves. Along this part of the shore, the continual action of the sea appears to have had the effect to form layers of new rock, in which stone, bones, and fragments of pottery are found cemented together as constituent parts. Throughout the old city heaps of debris and rub bish are found, in some of which piles of broken glass* (doubtless the waste of the factories of ancient Tyre), and broken shells, of the kind that furnished the purple dye, are found — but one of the most in terestino; relics now to be seen is a laro-e stone in the sea-wall, 17 feet long, 6^ high, and nearly 5 feet thick. This stone has the rebate, or bevel so noted in Phoenician and Jewish works, and lies in its original position where it was placed over 3,000 years ago. There are also many columns, and floors of marble buried under the rubbish all over the island and main- land city, and thousands of whole and broken col- iimns, capitals, and pannels have been carried away to Joppa, Acre, Beyroot, and other cities to be built * Robert Morris, in 1868, was so fortunate as to find a glass bottle among the rubbish, holding about three pints, and nearly perfect. m i ill, ^^f into modern houses, or burnt into lime, and this work is still going on. Those that lie in the sea, are fretted and perforated by ages of exposure to the storms and tempests common to this coast. The many remains of beautiful columns and other ruins of ancient edi- fices attest the opulence, and grandeur of this once proud metropolis. On the mainland there is a ruined Cathedral Church, which dates from the earliest ages, and has memories lingering around it of the pleasing old his- torian, William of Tyre, who was also a bishop of Tyre, and officiated within those walls. It was one of the most beautiful churches which the Crusaders built in Palestine ; its length was 205 feet, and nearly 140 wide, and has this peculiarity, that the transept projects 15 feet on each side. The other proportions and plans are similar to those of other churches at Samaria and Lydda. It has three naves and three apses, separated by a balustrade. This church was partly constructed from the spoils of ancient Temples. On the ground now lie prostrate magnificent columns carved in rose granite, monoliths which by their dimensions must have originally been parts of a structure of the first order, and which were, undoubtedly the central pillars of the cathedral. The windows are curiously ornamented on the outside, having a scroll and fretwork, indented and rectangular. The arch rests on an abacus with a very elaborate pattern. The only part of this edifice now standing is the east- ern end, and the three apses enclosed in the wall of the modern city. The walls are built against by the mud- vt5^,.C^ §^ 'I m m # I w huts of the poor, like huge swallows' nests plastered into all the corners and transepts, and the ragged women and children fill the place with their noisy gabble, where had been heard in eloquent tones the voices of Paulinus its Bishop, and a brother of Euse- bius, who wrote the consecration sermon, which we still have, and also wrote the early history of the church, and of William of Tyre, the bishop and his- torian, and greater than these, Origen, who may be said to have saved the Holy Scriptures from oblivion, through his labors of a long lifetime, in collecting, translating, and arranging, from every country, the scattered frao-ments. This historic ruin now echoes to the gossip of poor Arabs who watched its slow decay ever since the last religious service was held in it — almost the last held by the Crusaders in Palestine. At the time of Christ, Tyre contained a population of about 150,0 00 souls, but since it has been under Turkish rule (a.d. 1291), it has rapidly declined until it is now only a miserable Arab village of 3,000 in- habitants, many of the dwellings being constructed of stone, which had done service in the walls of splendid ancient public edifices and dwellings. The silence, desolation, and ruins of this once proud city, all attest the complete fulfilment of the pro- phesies of its destruction. " And they shall destroy the walls of Tyrus, and break down her towers : I will also scrape her dust from her, and make her like the top of a rock." It sliall be Q,j)lace for the spreading of nets in the midst of the sea : for I have spoken it, saith the Lord God : and it shall become a spoil to the nations. WM ^'/iJJ'*^-^'* 'If if^. And I will cause the noise of thy songs to cease and the sound of thy harps shall be no more heard {&eHel, xxvi. 4, 5, 13.) KING HIEAM. Hiram, King of Tyre, was son of a former King of Tyre of the same name, and, like him, a friend of David. He congratulated Solomon at the commence- ment of his reign, and furnished essential aid in building the Temple. He provided timber and stones, together with gold, and received in return large supplies of corn, wine, and oil. And when the Tem- ple and the King's palace were completed he was presented with twenty cities in the land of Cabul ; but, not deeming them acceptable, he remonstrated with Solomon, saying, " What cities are these which thou hast given me, my brother?" (1 Kings ix. 13). He afterwards joined Solomon in his commercial en- terprises (1 Kings ix. 26-2S ; x. 11-22). Josephus relates that he greatly improved his city and realm, and died after a prosperous reign of thirty -four years, at the age of fifty-two. -^ Solomon's cistern. About 3 miles South of Tyre is Kas-el-Ain, the head of the Cisterns of Solomon. There are three fountains, extending in a line nearly a fm-long in length from east to west, and overflowing with clear ' water which springs as if by enchantment from a flat, 'sandy and parched soil. The mouth of tlie principal well is an octagon, each side of which is 23 feet, 3 inches, and its hight above the plain over 15 feet, © m ^^j \ si I / ^^^^^^8S^ 153 and its depth below the level of the ground 35 feet This vast reservoir is composed of gravel and cement, which form a wall of enormous thickness, and as hard and durable as rock. A part of this wall projects over the water in the form of a half arch. The water, instead of being on a level with the surrounding country, rises up to the brink of the cistern, and that with such force and abundance, that after issuinof from an outlet which has been broken in the western side, it forms a rivulet which turns several mills on its passage to the sea. The ancient outlet now stopped up M^as on the east side over an aqueduct, which con-"' nected with two smaller cisterns, one of which is 20, and the other 12 yards square. After receiving their contributions into its ample channel, the aqueduct turned toward the N. E., to a small rocky eminence, on which is the tomb of an Arab Santon, and where in ancient times stood the citadel of old Tyre. The ruins of the magnificent arches of this aqueduct can be seen at a considerable distance, and the water oozing out at the breakages, or filtering tln-ough the cement, has encrusted them all over M^ith stahxctites of a peculiar form, which at a little distance gives them the appearance of being clothed with some gi- gantic foliage. hiram's well. Near the termination of this ancient aqueduct in the city there is a ruined tower over a well from which the principal supply of water is now obtained. This tower is on the sandy isthmus, consequently the water, which is pure and good, must come from the Vf old aqueduct, although at this place it must be many feet below the earth and rubbish, and this is further strengthened by the fact of the water becoming troub- led in the month of September, and of a reddish color, simultaneously with that of the fountains at Ras-el-Ain. Tradition claims that this well and tower were built by Solomon, the son of David, Morning and even- ing, long files of women with their ancient looking water jars may be seen going to and coming from this well with the day's: supply of its sweet water. The traveler Sandys, writing in 1610, says of Tyre, "This once famous Tyre is now no other than a heap of ruins; yet have they a reverent respect: and do instruct the pensive beholder with their exemplary frailty." In alluding to its fountains he says, " We passed certain cisterns some miles and better distant from the city ; which are called Solomon's by the Christians of this country, I know not why, unless these are they which he mentions in the Canticles. Square they are and large ; replenished with living water, which was in time past conveyed by aqueducts into the orchards." \m- ^mA THE FAMOUS TTRIAN PIJEPLE DTE. This was extracted from shells, which in former times were thrown up in great quantities along the sea shore, in July and August. These shells are now very scarce, still some are occasionallyfound in midsum- mer;and at this period is celebrated the feast of Sheikh Marshook, whose tomb stands on a rocky eminence. At this time the children collect these shells, which, as soon as they are withdrawn from the water, emit a slimy matter of a pale violet color ; with this they draw re- VNiVERsn y ) l\>^' %t\ 157 gnlar stripes on white cloths, then add a little soda and lemon juice, when the linen becomes striped with the brightest colors. At this feast every child carries one of these variegated banners on the end of a stick. A very interesting discovery in connection with this dye was made some years since. There was found a number of round cavities cut in the solid limestone rock, varying in size from that of an ordinary iron pot to that of a large cauldron, the largest being seven feet in diameter by eight feet in depth. They were perfectly smooth on the inside, and most of them shaped exactly like a large pot of the present day ; broad and flat at the bottom, and contracting towards the top. Some were found in clusters, others detached. Tliose in clusters were connected at the top by small channels cut in the stones. Nearly all of these pot-holes were filled with a breccia of shells ; in other places where the pots were empty, this breccia lie in heaps beside the rock. These doubt- less were the mortars or vats in which the purple dye was manufactured ; and this breccia is the same described by the old authors, as that from which the color was extracted. These stone pots or vats might also have been used for dyeing cloth ; as such pots, either cut in the rock or formed of baked clay, and sunk in the earth, are still found in many'parts of the East, and may be seen in some of the back streets of Alexandria and Cairo, and such ai-e used for in- digo dyeing throughout JSTorthern Africa. hieam's tomb. About six miles fi'om the city of Tyre, among the \\L hills which are dotted with many villages cosil;y bowered in groves of olive, orange, lemon, and pome- granate trees, there stands a grand and massive sarco- phagus lifted high on a solid pedestal of limestone, with a deep arched well or large cistern near it. This sarcophagus is 12 ft. 11 in. long by 7 ft. 8 in. wide, and 3 ft. 6 in. high ; the lid is roof -shaped and 3 ft. 6 in. high. The lid is apparently unfinished in the respect that there are none of the elevated corners so constant a feature in all other tombs in this vicinity, and as appears in the illustration; the shape of the stone favors the supposition that the corners may have been broken off. The base is formed of three tiers of stones each 13 feet long, by nearly 11 ft. wide. The stones forming the third course project a little all around, and are 15 feet long, 10 wide, and 3 feet 4 inches thick. The next on which the coffin rests is 12 feet 3 inches long, and 8 feet thick.* The view is from the west end, from which direc- tion it is seen to the best advantage. There is no at- tempt at finish anywhere ; the great blocks of stone were only squared and laid over one another, without any intentional architectural effect beyond the slightly decreasing size of the immense blocks. The cap- stone or lid is raised in the centre like a roof, in the manner of other lids of sarcophagi, which are found scattered about in many parts of Palestine. The east end of this tomb has been broken oj)en, but whether by robbers in search of plunder or by curiosity-seekers is not known. With the exception * These dimendons were taken by Robert Morris in 1868, who made the most accurate measurement of them ever yet taken. i ^tP2i i>i ^^ .-'^ =tr of the break tins monument has not been injured, and only shows the touches of time during the many cen- turies it has been exposed to the severe winter storms of this coast. The site was well selected for the sepulchre of the great Phoenician king, being high on the brow of a hill, or rather on the crest of a range of hills, where the eye may look over the plain to the sea and the city, which once boasted of its rule on that sea as a god. The commanding location of this tomb, its massive proportions and neighboring ruins, are strongly cor- roborative of the tradition that this was the last rest- ing place of King Solomon's friend. It is of great antiquity, and the surrounding ruins indicate that this was only the central body, around and over which was a structure adorned in a style befitting the pur- pose, the age, and the wealth of the nation, which boasted of its advanced position among the culti- vated nations. There are several other tombs scattered about in the fields in this vicinity, which are popularly said to have been those of various members of King Hiram's family. These stone coflSns are still quite numerous in thiB part of Palestine, although the Mohammedans have been breaking them up for building purposes, or burning them into lime for ages. Several hundred are still lying about the hill near Klian Khuldeh, twelve miles south of Beirut. Some of them are or- namented with carvings of flowers, wreaths of leaves, cherubs, Baal head figures of warriors, very well de- ;f!^ signed, and nearly all have raised coruers, somewhat hke a horn. But nowhere is there any instance of an inscription, mark, or character, except on the coffin of the King of Sidon, which was brought to light a few years since. The whole vicinity of Hiram's tomb abounds in ruins of Phoenician character, the most important of which is a pavement in colored marble covering the whole inside area of a heathen temple, with figm-es of Greek and Phcenician deities, each with the name cut in ancient Greek or Phoenician letters on each side of the head and inside of a circle. There are altogether 40 gods and goddesses porti-ayed ; besides on one side 48 circles containing fishes, animals, and fowls, and on the other 64 circles of the same character. Be- tween the columns are animals chasing each other, such as leopards, lions, bears, chasing deer, boars, rab- bits, etc. There is quite a natural history in this pavement. Some Greek words and names found here may help to fix the date of the structure, which has not yet been determined. The number of important ruins in this part of Phoenicia is so great as to fill a large volume, with even a slight notice of each, proving that the Phoeni- cians were a highly-cultivated, skillful, and wealthy jieople, fond of the fine arts and full of public spirit. Their descendants who now occupy the country are simply barbarians in comparison, caring little for the arts, bent only on a fanatical display of veneration and devotion to God, and — his prophet Mohammed. W^ m V Or , . -Ml A! %.^ 4 7 \\ LEBANON. A SKETCH OF ITS HISTOBT. ITS WONDEKFtJL TOPO- GKAPHY. THE KENOWNED CEDARS. THE FOREST WHERE THEY WERE PROCURED FOR SOLOMOn's TEMPLE. HOW THEY WERE CONVEYED FROM THE MOUNTAINS TO THE SEA, AND MADE UP INTO FLOATS. THE SINGU- LAR INHABITANTS OF LEBANON ; THEIR MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. THE AKALS, A SECRET ORDER, HAVING SIGNS, GRIPS, AND WORDS ANALOGOUS TO THOSE IN USE AMONG FREEMASONS. Lebanon is first mentioned in the covenant pro- mise given by the Lord to Israel (Deut. I, 7 ; xi. 24). To tlie inhabitants South, the cool streams and ver- dant forests must have been an earthly paradise when contrasted with their parched and thirsty country . The mountains were originally inhabited by a number of independent war-like tribes, some of- whom Josiiua conquered on the banks of lake Merom. Further north were the Ilivites, Giblites, and Arkites, whose names still cling to the ruins of their ancient strongholds. The Israelites were never able to subdue them ;but the Phoenicians had them under their power, or in their pay, for they got tim- ber from the mountains, and were able to supply Solomon with cedars from their forests. During the conquests of David, and the commercial prosper- ity of the Jews under Solomon, they became ac- quainted with the riches, grandeur, and luxuriant, foliage of Lebanon ; and ever after, that mountain was regarded as an emblem of wealth and majesty During the reign of the Selencidae several hai'g( cities were founded, and others rebuilt in these mountains. At the commencement of the Christian era, Lebanon, with the rest of Syria, passed into the hands of E.ome ; and under its rule great cities were built, and beautiful temples erected. The hights on which Baal fires had burned in primeval times, and the groves where the rude mountain tribes wor- shipped their idols, became the site of noble build- ings whose ruins, to this day, excite the admiration of every traveller. The temples of Baalbek and Chal- cis were not surpassed even in Greece. Owing to the almost inaccessible nature of this mountain country, its inhabitants have enjoyed great immunity from the wars and persecutions that have desolated other portions of Palestine ; and while Christianity was nearly extirpated from the rest of Syria, it has retained its hold here ; and the Maron- ites and Druzes, who still occupy the greater part of the range, are the lineal descendants of the ancient Syrians. The Maronites now number over 200,000. The Druzes, their hereditary foes, dwell towards the southern end of the range, and number about 80,000. The jealousies and feuds of these rival sects often desolate Lebanon with fire and sword. The whole range is now under the authority of the Pasha of Damascus. GEOGKAPHY AND TOPOGRAPHY. The mountain chain of Lebanon commences in \m •1 % 1 J Galilee near Acre, lat. 33° and extends in a nortli easterly direction, and nearly parallel with the Med iterranean, to the plain of Ilamath in lat. 34° 40', making its extreme length 100 geographical miles, and the average width of its base is about 20 miles. The highest peak, Dahr el Kudib, is 25 miles from the northern extremity, and jnst above a grove of the cedars. Its elevation is 10,051 feet; 23 miles to the southward of this is the massive round sum- mit of Sunin, — 8,500 feet high ; and the next highest peak is Jebel-Keniseh, 6,824 feet. The twin peaks, the highest peaks of Southern Lebanon, are about 6,700 feet high. From these the fall is rapid to the ravine of the river Litany. The view of Lebanon from the Mediterranean is grand and picturesque. It appears to rise from the deep like a vast wall ; the top covered with snow during winter and spring; and the highest peaks capped with ice and snow throughout the sul- triest days of mid-summer. The slopes facing the Mediterranean are long and gradual, and furrowed from top to bottom with deep rugged ravines, — broken everywhere by lofty cliffs of white rock, and tens of thousands of terrace walls rise like steps of stairs from the sea to the snow capped peaks far above. Nearly the whole mass of the mountain consists of a whitish limestone, or at least the rocky surface, as it everywhere exhibits a whitish aspect. The moun- tains of Lebanon teem with villages, and are culti- vated more or less nearly to the top. Yet so steep and rocky is the surface that the tillage is carried or « S^^ --^x mostly by means of terraces built up with great labor, and covered above with soil. In looking upwards from below the vegetation on the terraces is not seen, so that the whole mountain side appears as if com- posed of immense rugged masses of naked rocks, and one ignorant of the topographical peculiarities and ao;ricultural resources of this region would not sus- pect that among these rocks there existed a multitude of thrifty villages, and a numerous population of hardy, industrious, and brave mountaineers. But on reversing the view, and looking down the western slope from the brow of one of the projecting bluffs, a totally different, and highly picturesque scene is presented to view. The small areas at the tops of the terraces are green and golden-hued with vines, corn, and the foliage of the mulberry. The steeper banks and tops of ridges have their forests of pine and oak ; while far away down in the glens, around the villages and convents, are groves of olives. Cultivation extends only to the hight of about 6,000 feet ; above that line the mountains are nearly desti- tute of vegetation. -1^ \Wk RIVERS. The southern end of Ccele-Syria is divided by a low ridge into two branches. Down the eastern branch runs the Wady el-Teim, a tributary of the Jordan, and down the western flows the Litany. The latter branch soon contracts into a deep wild chasm, whose banks are in some places over a thousand feet high, of naked rocks, and nearly perpendicular. At one spot this ravine is only 60 feet wide, and is , I A 169 spanned by a natural bridge about 100 feet above tho stream. Above it,rises vast walls of naked limestone, pierced with numerous caves. At this place the scenery is strikingly magnificent. The high cliffs nearly meet overhead ; and rugged masses of rocks shoot out from dizzy bights above, and appear as if about to plunge into the chasm below ; the mad river far down in the depths dashing along from rapid to rapid, in sheets of foam. In wild grandeur this has but few equals in the world. The other rivers of Lebanon are the Nahr-el-Kelb (Dog River), Nahr-el-Kebir, Kadisha, and the Adonis. These rivers are fed by the eternal snows on the sum- mits of the mountains, and their waters are all re- freshingly cool until far down the mountain sides. Among the most noted is the Nahr-el-Kelb, which rises high up on the flank of the peak of Sunnin and dashes down through a deep glen. To the Mason the mouth of this river is a place of great interest, as being one of the two places where the cedars were made up into floats to be conveyed to Joppa for the Temple of Solomon. The Leontes — The sources of this river are at Baalbek, and Chalcis. The upper section of this stream is now called the Litany, and the lower sec- tion, the Kasimiyeh. The Kadisha, or Sacred River, — has its highest source around the most important grove of cedars, and decends through a deep, grand ravine 1,000 feet deep. Here, on opposite banks, are two villages the people of which can easily converse across the chasm, but to reach each other would require a toilsome walk of hours. In a wild cleft of this ravine is the convent of Kanobin, the residence of the Maronile patriarch. The mouth of this river is a short dis- tance below Tripolis, and here also a considerable portion of the cedar-timber for the Temple was brought from the mountains to be conveyed to Joppa. The Adonis — was famous Jn ancient fable as the scene of the romantic story of Adonis and Venus. Adonis was said to have been killed by a boar on its banks, and his blood dyed the waters, which have ever since, on the anniversary of his death, run red to the sea. The source of this stream is a noble fountain beside the ruins of a temple of Yenus, and near the site of Aphica. The Adonis empties into the sea, a short distauce south of Gebal. 11 CLIMATE. There is a great difference in the climate between the base of the mountains and their summits. In the plain of Dan, at the fountain of the Jordan, the heat and vegetation are almost tropical ; and the ex- halations from the marshy plain render this region unhealthy ; and the semi-nomads who inhabit it are as dark in complexion as Egyptians; but in the plains of Coele-Syria, 3,000 feet, and Damascus, 2,500 feet above the level of the sea, more or less snow falls every winter, and often to the depth of six and seven feet. The main ridges of Lebanon are generally covered with snow from December till March— some- times so deep that the roads are impassable for weeks together. During the whole summer the higher parts of the mountains are cool and pleasant, and the in air extremely dry. From the first of June till about tlie 20th of September rain never falls, and clouds are seldom seen. About the 20th of September the M'inter rains begin, usually accompanied with vivid lightning. The coldest months are January and February. The barley harvest begins about the first of August. Between an elevation of 2,000 and 5,000 feet the thermometer seldom rises liigher than 70° to 80° Fahr. in the hottest months of the year. The nights are cool and pleasant. In fact, the climate of this region in summer is enchanting. The air is so dry and pure, that objects are seen at a greater dis- tance than in most any other part of the world ; and by night the stars glow with unparalleled splendor in a firmament so clear that one almost fancies that the eye can penetrate further into its marvellous depths than in any other land. Beyroot, being next to the foot of these mountains, enjoys a very equitable and salubrious climate, which is a gi-eat inducement to invalids, or famihes travel- ling in pursuit of health to stop there ; and such per- sons find it a very pleasant and healthy residence. The close proximity of the mountains affords the means of changing the temperature at will ; and the inter- esting country of the Druzes is but a short distance up the mountains, and Baalbek but forty miles distant. Visits to these places, and to the cedars, form highly interesting excursions, while to the cave of St. George is only a morning walk. The great health- fulness of the climate will be seen from the fact that the natives are a peculiarly robust race, most of them possessing great muscular strength. It is no uncom- 1 m mon thing to see a porter on the Marina, at Beyroot, walk away with a bale of cotton-twist on his shoulders weighing 600 lbs. PRODUCTIONS. The principal productions of Lebanon are wheat, barley, maize, melons, pumpkins, peas, beans, carrots, turnips, potatoes, cucumbers, tobacco, cotton, walnuts, figs, olives, and grapes. Where water is plenty, irrigation is extensively practised, and the crops are luxuriant. The flowers are the tulip, pink, anemone, ranunculus, geranium, crocus, lily, star of Bethlehem, convolvulus, etc. ; all of which are bright and beautiful. THE KENOWNED CEDAES OF LEBANON. The cedar is frequently mentioned in the Bible, and in several passages it is styled the glory of Lelja- non ; and in the 29th Psalm, how grand is the intro- duction of the cedar ! " The voice of the Lord is upon the waters ; the God of glory thundereth ; the voice of the Lord breaketh the cedars of Lebanon." Well might the cedar be called the glory of Lebanon. The mag-nificence of the living; tree, and the beauty, fragrance, and durability of the timber distinguish it among all the trees of the mountain forest. Religion, poetry, and history have equally consecrated them. They furnish a class of images which inspired writers used with especial preference. Its great durability is astonishing, as it has fre- quently been found as sound as when cut, after being in use over two thousand years. According to Pliny, cedar- wood of near two thousand years old was found in the temple of Apollo at Utica. In the times of David and Solomon the cedar was flinch used in the construction of palaces and tem- ples ; consequently, in the aiTaiigement between Iliram of Tyre, and King Solomon, by which the former agreed to furnish the cedar timber for the Temple, there was nothing out of the ordinary course of the business arrangements of that period. On the pai't of King Hii-am it was stipulated that King Sol- omon should furnish a certain number of craftsmen and laborers, who were to work under the more ex- perienced woodcutters of Tyre ; and the payment was to be in provisions, partly for the use of the labor- ers, and partly for the supply of the Tyrian market Nothing could be fitter for the purpose required tlian cedar wood. Its size and straightness, and above all, its durability, were most essential for edi- fices that were designed to last. The beauty of the wood, the high polish of which it was capable, and its fragrance, all recommended it foi- the Temple. The ancient cedar forests of Lebanon were of great extent, and contained a vast amount of timber, but they never recovered from the thinning made by Sol- omon's 80,000 hewers; and they have been dwind- ling away for many centuries, until the words have been literally fulfilled : " Lebanon is ashamed and hewn down ;" '' The high ones of stature sliall be hewn down, and the trees of his forest be few, that a little child may write them." The region of the famous cedars is near the north- ern end of the range, principally around aid be- SrO^^iri^ i #- 1 WWrf^^^M^^^p^ tween the sources of the rivers Kadislia and Nahi el-Kelb. The timber for the Temple of Solomon was procured near the heads of these two streams, the first of which is sixteen miles from the sea, and the second, fourteen. After the trees were cut and hewn, the timber was conveyed down the courses of the rivers (doubtless floated) to their mouths, w^here it was made up into floats and conveyed to Joppa, thence overland to Jerusalem/ At the mouths of both of these rivers are small in- lets or harbors, which made them convenient places for making up the floats and getting them ready for sea ; the mouths of these streams are also historic localities of considerable impoi-tance. The bay at the mouth of the Nahr-el-Kelb is a short distance north of Beyroot, the situation of which will be miderstood by reference to the illustration. In the foreground is the bay, and on the right are the points which jut out into it north-east of Bej^root, The mouth of the river is discovered just beyond the rocky promontory, across tlie bay. On the pro- montory are inscriptions and sculptures engraved by the conquerors of Syria, from Egypt, Assyria, Macedonia and France ; and above, far away in the distant sky, the peaks of Lebanon ai-e seen, whitened with eternal snows. The mouth of the Kadisha is thirty-five miles north of the mouth of the Nahr-el-Kelb, and here is an ancient port, also the ruins of ancient buildings. The town of Tripolis is a short distance up the river. Wliat interesting recollections cluster around this little harbor! Here nearly three tliousand yeai-s ago I 1(1 the craftsmen of King Solomon and Hiram might have been seen busily engaged, making up the frag- rant cedar timber into floats, preparatory to its jour- ney to Jerusalem, where it was to become a part of the chosen house of God. In the forest, fifteen miles above here were many thousands of men at work, clad in their ancient costumes, and using their curi- ous ancient tools ; some felling the trees, othei-s squaring and preparing them for their respective places a]\d uses in the Temple ; others, again, con- veying the timber down the mountain to the sea ; altogether making a scene full of life and replete with interest. Of all the magnificent ancient forests of Lebanon, there now remain only three small groves, and a few scattered trees, and only in one of these are there any of the old cedars. This grove is the one around the source of the river Kadisha, about sixteen miles S.E. by S. from Tripoli. The u]>per part of the valley of the Kadisha is quite broad and flat, and across it extends a row of low, rocky hills, which are only from 60 to 100 feet high, but the whole is 6,500 feet above the level of the sea. On these hills is the grove of cedars, and there are here son:ie 400 trees, but of the original patriarchs of the forest, that were here in the time of Solomon, there remain only about a dozen trees, and the trunks of these have been much injured by travelers cutting their names on them. The largest of these relics measures forty-five feet in circumference ; another, which is nearly three-sided, measures about 12 feet on each side ; others measure from 40 feet down to 20 feet in circumference. So that these giants are more remarkable for girth than stature, as the high- est does not exceed 70 feet. The stately bearing and graceful repose of the younger cedars contrasts singularly with the wild and fiantic attitude of the old ones; these appear as if flinging about their knotty and inuscular limbs like so many Laocoons, while . others lie rotting at their feet. Their tenacity of life is marvellous, and they look as if they had been struggling for existence for thousands of years after they had reached matur- ity. The very air of the cedar impresses the beholder with the idea of its comparative immortality. There is a firmness in the bark and a stability in the trunk, in the mode in which it lays hold of the ground, and in the form of the branches and their insertion intc the trunk, scarcely found in any other tree. The foli- age, too, is superior to that of any other of the forest tribe, each branch being perfect in its form. The points of the leaves spread upwards into little tufts, and the whole upper surface of the branch has the appearance of rich green velvet. The remaining relics of this once noble forest are, certainly, the most celebrated natural monuments in the universe ; and to Masons, among the most highly interesting, as they were living though silent wit- nesses of the preparation by the craftsmen of Solomon of their mates and contemporaries, for supports and adornments of the wonderful Temple on Mount Moriah. Their evergreen boughs, and the imperishable na- ture of the wood, are typical of the imperishable prin- I^^KSgf ciples of the ancient order, and of the immortality of the soul. The natives of Lebanon have a traditional venera- tion for these ancient cedars. They believe that an evil fate will surely overtake any one who shall dare to lay sacrilegious hands on these " saints," as they fondly call them. Every year at the feast of the trans- figuration, the Maronites, Greeks and Armenians mount to the cedars, and celebrate mass on a rude altar of stone at their feet. How many prayers have re- sounded under their branches ! and what more sub- lime temple, what altar nearer the heavens ! What fane more majestic and holy, than this lofty level of Lebanon, the trunks of those primeval cedars, and the canopy of those sacred branches, which have shaded, and still shade so many human generations, pronounc- ing the name of God in different languages, but recognizing him everywhere in his works, and ador- ing- him in the manifestation of his creation ! Kums. The ruins of ancient templet have been discovered in various parts of Lebanon ; some of them high up the mountain, where it must have been very difficult to build ; all exhibiting a style of architecture simi- lar to the remarkable structures of Baalbek. The ruins of one of these temples are visible from Bey- root. It was built of immense hewn stone, without cement, and with large columns in front. It is now little more than a heap of ruins. Among the heights of Lebanon, near Lake Limon, are the ruins of another ancient temple. They are in the centre of an area ,q5l !i fe«) i. forming a square of about 80 paces across, bounded bj' a massive wall of well-hewn stones, laid without mortar. From this extreme boundary, through which a large ruined gate-way gives admission, the ground everywhere rises by a regular ascent to a mass of fallen ruins, resting on a basement elevated by three steps above the adjacent soil. These ruins exhibit fi-agments of Doric columns, pieces of entablature, and many other parts of large columns, and stones thrown together in a confused heap, apparently by the shock of an earthquake. These are evidently the remains of a very ancient edifice. The portico had faced the entrance, and a wide flight of stairs, connecting the entrance with the temple, was half- buried beneath the shattered architraves and broken columns. Every part had been massive ; the cella had consisted of five or six columns on each side, and of large diameter ; the whole completely over- thrown. But from the scattered fragments every- where visible, the plan of this ancient structure may be very accurately made out. TOWIf AND CASTLE OF TKIPOLIS. Tripolis is situated a short distance above the mouth of the river Kadisha, and 35 miles N. E. of Beyroot. It was down the course of this river that much of the timber for Solomon's Temple was brought, and in the little port at its mouth it was made up into floats to be conveyed to Joppa. Tripolis consisted originally, as its name imports, of three towns, formed severally by colonies, from Tyre, Sidon, and Aradus, which ultimately coalesced into one. It is situated about a .»i?3^^^^ Tripolis. JC?^'^. .■^'^-' Aiab Dance. — Tripolis. rtic ' mile and a half from the shore of the Mediterranean, on one of the lowest spurs of Lebanon, and is sur- rounded by an old fortress built by Raymond de Toulouse, which commands the town and environs. This place retains many marks of the age of the Crusaders ; among them sevei-al high arcades of Gothic architecture, under which the streets run. The houses are white and generally well built ; and the whole place has a' light and clean appearance. The river Kadisha flows through Tripolis, and is the life of the town. Tlie Wady Kadisha, higher up than Tripolis, is one of the most picturesque valleys in the world. It is crossed a short distance above the town by an aqueduct built on arches, and on one of the arches is a Latin cross carved in relief, which in- dicates that the aqueduct was constructed by the Counts of Tripolis in the times of the Crusaders. This aqueduct is 130 paces long and a little over 7 feet wide. The fall being considerable, the water flows as rapidly as through a sluice-way, so that it may well be imagined that even a pedestrian feels con- siderable trepidation at crossing it, as it has to be done along the narrow, unguarded ledge not occupied by the waters ; yet it is related that in 1802, a Mar- onite, belonging to one of the chief families of Le- banon, being hotly pursued by the soldiers of the governor of Tripolis, galloped his horse across this aqueduct at full speed. Raymond de Agile, one of the oldest chroniclers, speaking of a battle fought here between the Crusa- ders and the Saracens, says coolly that " it was a delectable thing to see the little stream of the aque- m 186 duct carrying into the city the mangled bodies of both nobles, and men of the commoner sorts." The road leading from Tripolis to the mountains affords an admirable view. It winds along the banks of the river, enclosed between hills, and overshadowed by beautiful trees, and orange groves. A kiosk or cafe, built beneath these trees, offers its perfumed terrace to promenaders, who" resort thither to drink coffee, smoke, and enjoy the fragrance of the air wafted from above the stream. From this spot a fine view is had of the sea, the numerous vessels in the roads, and the picturesque Syrian towers along the coast. i! THE SINGULAR PALACE OF BTEDDIN. This unique oriental palace is about half-way be- tween Beyroot and Seyde, and stands on a bold spur of the mountains. It was built by the Emir Beshir, whose sway, previous to the war, extended over nearly all of Lebanon. This palace is of great extent, and of various and singular shapes, and elevations, form- ing long, wide terraces, clustei-s of cupolas, square towers, spreading out their tops into overhanging battlement, and galleries piled on galleries, present- ino; Ions: ranojes of slender columns and arcades. The broad courts descend like immense flights of stairs- from the highest platform to the outer wall of the for- tifications. In former times the large marble staircase leading to the harem, and the gorgeous portal, were thronged with black slaves, magnificently dressed, and bristling with splendid arms. The vast court- Palace of Bteddin, Mouth of the Nahr-el-Kelb. 189 yards <.)f tlie palace were crowded with domestics, re- tainers, priests, aud soldiers, in all the various and picturesque costumes of the different peoples of Le- banon. Five or six hundred horses, covered with brilliant housings of every color, were tied to ropes stretched across the court. Groups of camels were standing, lying down, or kneeling to be loaded or un- loaded ; and on the highest terrace of the inner court young pages might be seen pursuing each other on horseback, and Hinging the jreed or bent low on the saddle to avoid the blow ; then wheeling around, they galloped at full speed at their disarmed antagonist, and went through all the rapid evolutions of their warlike o-ame, with admirable o-race and address :al- together presenting a scene of oriental and barbaric life and splendor. THE INHABITANTS OF LEBANON THEIR MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. As the wonderful topogra})hy of Lebanon, its famous and almost sacred cedars, its singular history combine to render the subject both interesting and edifying, a description of its inhabitants will not be found uninteresting in this connection. The inhabitants of Lebanon are divided into three distinct sects, viz. : Maronites, Drnzes, and Metualis. The Maronites inhabit that part of Lebanon to the north of the river Nahr-el-Kelb, including Kesrouan and Bsherray, they are also found in cities and lai'ge towns as far north as Aleppo, and as far south as Nazareth; but as cultivators of the soil thej' are at home only in Lebanon. They number nearly 200,000. SCd i \Wi W 100 The Druses occupy the country from the river Dar- monr, between Beyroot and Seyde, as far as the lati- tude of the mouth of the Kadisha, in towns and viHages solely belonging to them, or which they share with Greeks, Mai-onites, and Armenians. They num- ber about 80,000. The Metuali villages are in the south part of Lebanon, towards the Cape of Sarfend, or Sarepta. There are also nearly a thousand families of them in Baalbek and vicinity. They number 40,000. The Mai'onites derive their name from Marroun, a hermit, who flourished in the odor of sanctity in the fifth century. In A. D. 681, his followers were condemned by the general council of Constantinople, as holding the monotheistic heresy ; and being driven from the greater part of Syria, they took refuge on the mountains of Lebanon. For several centuries after this Lebanon continued to be an asylum from religious persecutions of every cast, and in this way pagans and Christians amalgamated for many ages, and were governed even by a single head. The Maronites, although they adhered to the Latin Church, still remained under the authority of their own Patriarchs ; and in the events which followed the Crusades, their attachment to the Church of Rome became much diminished ; but they were won back by able negotiations in the year 14-03 ; and in 1405 they renewed their recognition of the supremacy of the Pope, since which time they have prided themselves on their fidelity to the Holy See. Mass is celebrated in Syriac, although but few of them un- derstand it. The communion is administered in Horsemen. — Lebanon. Peasants. — Lebanon. of i Jr both kinds. The host is a small round loaf of the thickness of a finger, and about the size of a crown piece. On the top of it is the impression of a seal, which is eaten by the priest, who cuts the remainder into small pieces, and, putting it into the wine in the cup, administers it to each person with a spoon. Celibacy is not strictly imposed on the Maronite priests, who may be ordained though married, but cannot marry a second time if the first wife die. The Patriarch is elected by the bishops, subject to the approval of the Pope. The Patriarch's authority is unlimited; and all the Christians of the mountains pay him great respect and deference. He has but to speak to be obeyed implicitly. The influence of the bishop is- also very great — so much so that the Turkish authorities are careful not to offend them, knowing that a word from their lips would be enough to raise the whole population. The bishops and clergy are held in such awe and respect that whoever approaches them is expected to kiss their hands, which they never fail to present ; and they are displeased if Europeans withhold this mark of reverence. The simple man ners prevailing among this people are doubtless attributable to the potent influence of the clergy. Retribution speedily follows every offence, however slight, and the clergy are rigorous in preventing dis- order or scandal among the members of their flocks. Befoi-e a young man can marry he must get the con- sent of both his pastor and his bishop. If they dis- prove of the marriage they prohibit it, and the Maron ite has no remedy. If an unmarried girl becomes a mother, her seducer is compelled to marry her ; if he Vt3'75> ==^^; m i i s^ i:«i^Kir 194 refuse, he is forced to comply by measures of severity — imprisonment and bastinadoing. The influence of the clergy extends to every detail of domestic life, and they have at their command a fearful word of execration — a vt^ord that excites unbounded horror whenever uttered. This word applied to an indi- vidual would instantly bar every door against him ; as no one would have any communication with, or sell, or give anytliing to one accursed Wee him — this word of such terrible import \%—frainassoon {free- 7naso7i). A Maronite believes in his heart that a freemason is a horrible being, whose soul is doomed to irretrievable perdition, that he has constant deal- ings with Satan, and that he is endowed with a thous- and infernal qualities, that he possesses atrocious means of making mischief, of casting malignant spells, inflicting disease on the faithful, making them give way to temptation, and dragging them down with himself to the bottomless pit. Among the Maronites there are, besides the clergy, two general classes, the Sheikhs and the common peo- ple ; the Sheikhs derive their superiority from the an- tiquity of their families, and from their wealth; but all the different classes are husbandmen, as every man cultivates with his own hands the little domain he owns or farms. In this respect the Sheikhs live in the same manner as the common people, and are only distinguished from them by the possession of a good horse, and a display of better wearing apparel ; also some advantage in houses and food. Property is as secure here as in Europe, and the traveller may journey through these mountains with perfect safety. 195 and always be hospitably received. Keading, writ- ing, arithmetic and the catechism are taught among them, yet their ignorance on other subjects and of the outsjjde world is really curious. A French traveller was asked by a Maronite, *' had they a moon in his country?" and a lady travelling here excited such curiosity among her sex,that they laid violent hands on her that they might satisfy themselves whether the women of Europe and those of Lebanon were of the same species. THE DEUZES, Although not so numerous as the Maronites, are the most courageous and warlike people in Lebanon. Everything belonging to this singular people is cal- culated to excite curiosity and interest : their man- ners and customs, their bravery, their stability of character, and, above all, the mystery that has so long hung over their moral history; for even at this day but little is known of the Druzes' doctrines and their religious rites and ceremonies, as they are kept secret. The founder of the Druze religion was the Caliph Hakim Bi-Amar-Alah, the third of the Fatemites, who became Caliph of Cairo in the j^ear of. the II e- gira 386. His reign was distinguished by great ex- travagances; he forbade women even to go out of doors, and forbade shoemakers making any kind of foot-gear for their use, on pain of death ; all neces- sary supplies were to be conveyed to them through loop-holes in the walls, by means of long poles, so that none might see them. Not contented with such follies, he styled himself God, and the founder of a 196 new religion, which was to supersede that of Mohain* med ; but after an execrable reign of twenty-four years he was murdered by his minister, Hamiz ; and the succeeding Caliph persecuted those who believed in his divine character, when many of the sect fled to Syria, and there propagated their doctrines anew. Each Druze family religiously preserves, and trans- mits from father to son, what is called the purse of faith. This is a small sum of money, carefully sealed up in a small black bag, which is to serve as a token of recognition on the transmigration of the soul of the head of the family into another body. Should a Druze return to life after several successive transmi- grations, he could make himself known as a true be- liever by means of the purse of faith. When the father dies, the son, selected by the father (usually the eldest), succeeds to the sacred purse, which he is forbidden to open, even in his most urgent need. During a revolt, some years since, a few of these purses were found, that had been thus sealed up in parch- ment for hundreds of years, without ever having been opened. The other children of the deceased father receive each a small black stone of jet or agate, in token of hope, union, and recognition. There is an order among the Druzes, the members of which have signs and tohens for Dm iil recogni- tion, which are analogous to those used a,... free- masons. The initiated everywhere recognize each other ; \vlien tv/o Druzes meet, and discover, by certain signs, that they are both Akals, they proceed to inter- rogate as follows : — One of them inquires : "Dost thou know, in thy country, a plant of peGuliar excellence above all others f"* "Yes," is the reply: "it is the alilege." "Where does this marvellous plant grow?" " In the hearts of the faithful Druzes, who believe in the unity of the God Hakim Bi-Amar." Although they have now recognized each other as belonging to the initiated, the proof is not yet complete, so they next grasp each other'' s hands, the one giving the left hand, and the other the right, and then whisper the W2ixne?> oi the five prophets, or Itedouhs ; also three other mystic words, intelligible only to those who have reached these degrees of the Akals. The in- quiry and recognition are now complete, and they salute each other, laying their hands on their hearts. Among no other people is there to be found so strong a faith in amulets (itedjabs) as among the Druzes.* They possess a great number of them ; and such implicit confidence do they repose in the virtue of their talismans, that when armed with an itedjab, even in the most desperate engagements, their courage is often exalted to an indescribable degree. The wealthiest among them wear signet rings, called Katem Suleyman, believed to have been enchanted by virtue of the name of Solomon. These rings are usually of silver, on one surface of which is inscribed stars and cdbalistic figures. In addition to the portion of Lebanon occupied by the Druzes, the}'' have about seventy villages in Anti-Lebanon, and their capitals are Ammatour and Bachlin, in Lebanon, and Ilasbeya and Kasheya, in Anti-Lebanon. Each of these places is a rallying point for the nation, and possesses a religious edifice * Sylvester De Sacy. Religion des Druses. 198 (Khalueh) in which are deposited their sacred books and their war standards. The Druzes, like the other races of Syria, are distinguished by a peculiar cast of features ; the natives of the country recognize a Maronite, a Druze, or a Metuali at a glance, Tlie physiognomy of the Druze is noble, grand, and sometimes even tinctured with ferocity. The men are well made, active, musciilar, and possessed of extraordinary powers of endurance. To this is added the most dauntless intrepidity. The women, of whom they are very jealous, are taller in pro]>ortion than the men, with fine figures and clear, rosy-white com- plexions, luxuriant raven hair, and eyes of clearest blue. The character of the Druze is quite contradic- tory. Yindictive, sanguinary and haughty by nature, tliey conceal these traits under an exquisite suavity of demeanor, and fully compensate for these traits by their unbounded hospitality, genei-osity, and lofti- ness of soul. Their code of morals is extremely rigid, and the greatest good faith prevails in their mutual dealings ; their word once passed becomes a sacred oath, as binding as the most solemn contract. Points of honor are strictly insisted on by them, and the least insult is instantly avenged with the khanjai', or rifle ; M'hereas among the people of the plains an insult or slight only provokes abusive retort. Though the Druzes inhabit many villages in com- mon with the Christians, yet they have but little intercourse with them ; never marrying with them, and holding them in sovereign contempt. The Druzes so despise Europeans that the worst insult one can put on another is the exclamation, " Ma}' God SI r/ ja X^j ¥ii >ir 4^/; >RK'I put a hat on you!" Still their hospitality is extended to all, and the traveler who presents himself at their doors is sure of being entertained with food and lodg- ing in the most generous manner; and when they have once partaken of bread and salt with their guests, no subsequent event can induce them to violate their hospitality. Many instances in point are related. ToM^ards the close of the eighteenth century, an Aga of the Janisaries having been engaged in rebellion fled from Damascus and retired among the Druzes. The Pasha demanded him of the Emir, threatening war on him in case, of refusal. The Emir demanded him of the Sheikh wlio had received him, who in- dignantly replied : " AVTien have you known the Druze to deliver up or betray his guest? Tell the Emir that as long as I shall possess my beard, not a hair of the head of my guest shall fall." Although the Maronites are far more numerous than the Druzes, yet the latter being so brave and warlike a people, are more than a match for tiie former ; consequently, the moral influence the Druzes exercise over the other mountaineers is almost in- credible. When war is resolved on, every man, whether Sheikh or peasant, able to bear arms, is called upon to march. He takes with him a yataghan, musket, some powder made in his native village, and his commissary department, which consists of a small bag of flour, and some blankets, and repairs to the rendezvous. If it be a civil war, each clan rallies around the standard of its chief ; and when engaged with the enemy, each man fights with desperate 'tr il' 6=-^' ^.-t m, valor, and never thinks of retreating nnless over- wliehiied with numberSj or so completely defeated as to leave no possible chance of retrieving the disaster. The father bequeaths his opinions and his party to his son ; and there is hardly an example of a Druze, or a Maronite espousing a quarrel, or adopting a party, other than that of his ancesters. The gather- ing of the clans for war is described by an eye witness as being something marvellous. Cries went up at night to the summits of the cliffs, and thence over the country, " To war ! to war ! take your guns, take your pistols, arm yourselves with the lance and yataghan : rendezvous at Deir-el-Kammar. Zeal of God, zeal of combats." These cries, from the still- ness of the night and their long resounding ech(^es, had something awful in their effect ; and, as if by magic, an army was immediately assembled at the appointed place. In regard to matrimony the Druzes are very ex- clusive, as their clannishness renders them averse to forming such alliances outside of their own people. They invariably prefer their own relations, though poor, to the wealthy stranger ; and indigent peasants frequently refuse their daughters to the rich merchants of the large towns. The Druze takes but one wife. The young men usually marry at the age of 18, and the girls at 14. Three days before that fixed for a marriage, the bridegroom, accompanied by some young men of his own age, all well armed, proceed to formally demand the bride of her father, who awaits the party armed cap-a-pie, on the threshhold of his door ; and there \U^2i i>i ^^ -^-"iij^ 1 1 >\ IP ^. f gives his final sanction to the contract. The young men fix the dowry (maahr) to be settled by the bridegroom on his intended, and he promises her family that he will make her happy. The betrothed girl appears, but closely veiled, and accompanied by her mother, and other female relatives, when the mother guarantees the unblemished honor of her cliild. Upon this the young man pops the question to the fair one himself, who replies, — " ueUe tak " (I accept you), at the same time presenting him with a khan jar sewed up in a red and white kefileh, usually of wool, and wrought with her own hands. The Khanjar is a token of the protection she expects from her husband; but it is likewise an instru- ment destined to expiate her guilt if she has trifled with her maiden honor, violates her marriage vow, — ■ or even fails in her duty as an obedient and duteous wife. All parties then enter the house; and the bride proceeds to the bath, where she spends the day with her companions ; while the men mount their horses and amuse themselves with their favorite games Of remain smoking and drinking in the house. This ceremony is twice repeated. On the night of the wedding, the women conduct the bridegroom to the nuptial chamber where the bride awaits him, covered from head to foot with a red veil spangled with gold; the bridegroom removes this, upon which the women run out of the room screaming and gabbling at the top of their voices, — this is the signal for a great uproar throughout the house, which is kept up for several hours, the men assisting in the din by performing the dance of arms, capering about, and 'i putting themselves in all sorts of wild and ludicrous attitudes, clashing their sabres and yataghans together, and feigning to be in a towering passion. All this noise and confusion is made to drive away the djins and other evil spirits which are believed to be very busy about the house on such occasions. Although the marriage ceremony occupies from two to three days, yet it requires but an instant to dissolve the contract, as every Druze possesses absolute power to repudiate his wife on paying the dowry stipulated when he takes her, and the only divorce necessary is for the husband to oj)en his door and say to her " go." Even if a wife asks permission of her husband to visit her relatives, and it is given without requesting her to return, it is considered tantamount to a di- vorce. Yet notwithstanding this facility, divorces are very rare, and seldom occur without grave reasons. The woman who is convicted of conjugal infidelity is punished with death, — not by her hus- band, for he only returns her to her relatives with the khanjar he received from her when they were married, but by her relatives themselves : for her guilt reflects shame on them, for the Druze holds that dishonor follows the line of blood, and does not devolve on a man or family of the other blood. The khanjar sent back to the family of the wife without its sheath is a significant hint to theni of their dis- grace, and its dire consequences to their daughter. On receiving the khanjar, the father and brother of the guilty wife repair to the house of the husband to investigate the case, when if proofs be wanting the husband's oath is held snfiicient. The relatives then 203 return home and put the unhappy woman to death ; then, as a proof to the husband that justice has had its course, a lock of the woman's hair dyed in her blood, is sent him. THE METUALIS. The Metualis are followers of Ali, and belong to the same great division of Islamism as the Persians and Shiites, yet there is something very peculiar in the tenets vvliich distinguish them from all other Mohammedans. They recognize twelve Imans as founders of their religion, the first of whom is Ali, and the rest his descendants to the eleventh genera- tion. These Imans they call the twelve doctors of the universe. All the Metualis look forward to the speedy coming of Mouhdi (guide) of the race of Ali. This Monlidi or Messiah will rule over the whole world, and put all who have denied him to a fearful death. Another Messiah they expect is Mohammed- el-Mehady, who suddenly disappeared from the earth after giving battle to the Caliph of Babylon, near Kabela. Magnificent horses are always kept ready, saddled, and caparisoned by the Metualis of Irak, in expectation of his return ; and no one is ever allowed to mount these steeds, as they are held in high veneration by this sect. Some of the Metuali families were formerly of princely rank, and deeds of great daring and ferocity are related of some of their emirs and chiefs. Emir Can jar, the head of an ancient family near Baalbek, underwent the indignity of being conscripted in 1834, and enrolled in the Egyptian army like a common Ss?^ m m m VI I peasant, but he soon deserted and returned home, where lie quietly remained until after 1840, when a favorable opportunity presented itself of avenging the great indignity put upon him. He, at the head of a band of horsemen of his clan, joined the Maronites, who had revolted, and were then en- camped before Beyroot. His attacks were so fierce, and his blows so well directed against the enemy, that his name soon became famous throughout Lebanon, for courage, strategy, and great bodily strength, and the great injur}' he did the Egyptian army, fully justified this reputation. He cut off numerous convoys of provisions and other military supplies, and for a long time blockaded the road to Damascus. When the allied fleet appeared before Beyroot, he applied for arms, which he distributed among his followers, and then played an imj^ortant part in the events that led to the expulsion of Ibrahim Pasha from Syria. The famous Metuali chief, Hussein-el-Shibib, i-en- dered himself notorious by unparalleled acts of daring and ferocity as a highway robber, having been exasperated beyond measure by Egyptian violence and tyranny. For over four months he infested the route between Acre and Beyroot, killing all he could capture. His retreat was the ruined fortress of Medjel Ziwouin, situated on an almost inaccessible escarpment, about seven miles from Sour. There perched like a hawk on the lookout for prey, he waited the appearance of travelers on the road, and when any appeared, he pounced upon them at a place called White Cape, near Nakoura. Once hemmed in within that narrow pass the victim conld not escape, as the road was a mere ledge on the perpendicular face of a rocky wall, with the sea dashing against it more than two hundred feet below. Here he put them to every species of torture that savage ingenuity could invent, and then pitched their mangled bodies down into the sea, and their beasts after them. Twice were detachments of Egyptian soldiers sent in pursuit of him, but when they had reached the perilous delile they were met by a shower of balls, ^dlich fell upon them like hail from the clouds, whilst they themselves were unable to use their arms to any advantage against their invisible assailants. After many acts of daring and ferocity, and after having twice made his way, single-handed, into the midst of his enemies' camp by night, and cut the throats of several soldiers, this bold brigand was compelled to seek safety in flight, as a hea^y price was put upon his head. He lied to the Hauran, intending to take refuge in the Ledja, that secure asylum of outlaws ; and had nearl}' reached the place when he was im- })rudent enough to demand hospitality of the Sheikh of a village. The temptation of the promised reward, and the desire of getting the large sums Hussein was known to carry with him, were too strong for the Sheikh's sense of the duties of hospitality, con- sequently, in the middle of the night, Hussein found himself surrounded by Bedouins, disarmed, bound hand and foot, in spite of his frantic resistance, and carried to Damascus, where, after he had been bas- tinadoed without mercy, by order of Sherif Pasha, he was taken to the gate of the Medan, where his head M i^ 2::::l._jjb2J22«sMi23 206 was, cut off. A tlionsand similar examples might be adduced in evidence of the sanguinary character of tlie Metualis ; dull, quiet, and servile in appearance, but when goaded by a sense of wrong or insult, they display the ferocity of the tiger. The Metualis have a horrible custom, tolerated by their laws. In case of urgent necessity the father is allowed to expose his children for sale in the slave market ; and instances are not rare in which this in- human privilege has been exercised. After the Syrian campaign, when the Egyptian government exacted all arrears of taxes with great rigor, many girls from twelve to fifteen years af age were sold by poor Metualis. Nineteen were thus sold at one time at prices varying from TOO to 900 piasters, but the father has the right to redeem his children at any time by paying back the purchase mone}^ HOUSES IN LEBAJION. The better class of dwellings are of a quadrangular form, built around a court-yard, to which admission is gained from the street by an arched doorway and a low, dark passage. The latter usually has two turnings, so that no prying eyes may look through the open door into the mysteries of domestic life within. In the centre of the court a jet of water falls back bubbling into a marble basin. The rooms in the upper story of the house constitute the harem or private apartments of the family ; those on the ground are often without any external opening to admit the light, and are used only as store-rooms and domestic offices. In the houses of the wealthy there 'i:2il_NI luteiior of a House. — Lebanon. Khan or Hotel. Kf/i 'yX: "{ M M m M are reception rooms for the male guests in the base- ment story. The next best class of dwellings is the flat or ter raced roof ; there the women and children pass the day and frequently the night also. These houses are commonly divided into three apartments: one for the family, one for the servants, and one for the animals; but the largest class of dwellings are the low, square habitations occupied by the common peo- ple. These are mostly built of rough, square blocks of stone, one story, and with a flat roof. The interior consists of two nearly equal divisions; the front being occupied by horses, cows, asses, and other ani- mals, while the rear apartment, which is elevated a few feet, is occupied by the human inhabitants. There is no partition between the front and rear rooms. The floor of the rear apartment consists of earth trodden hard, and covered with mats or cheap carpets, according to the ability of the owner. There is a fire-place in the corner with a sloping flue, and the room is usually lighted by pieces of burning pine wood supported by irons driven into the wall. The sleeping arrangements are very primitive, being only a few mats spread down inside of the room ; and when the family has guests they occupy the other side of the floor, furnishing their own mats or blankets, and where the family is large or the guests numerous the inside sleepers are necessarily brought into close proximity to each other. KHAN OK HOTEL. The Khan differs but little from the private dweil m. M m 210 Ing, except that the walls are higher, the interior being divided into three apartments, all on the ground. The largest apartment is used for the animals, the middle is the servants' quarters, and the rear one the quarters of the guests ; of the three divisions, the stable is frequently the most comfortable. These hotels are conducted on the, most democratic plan known to civilization, far ahead of the European j)lan in this respect. The guest has the privilege of fur- nishing his own provisions, building his own fire and cooking his meals, and when it is time to retire he spreads his own blankets and sleeps upon them ; the compensation, or hotel bill is for these privileges. Sometimes the landlord has coffee and a few other articles of food which he will cook and serve for his guests if required ; but as his culinary apparatus has not the appearance of being so scrupulously clean as to tempt the traveler to try his viands, the latter usu- ally prefers to cook his own meals. The scene at a khan when there is but one guest, or one party, is tranquillity itself, compared with the meeting of several different parties at a hotel the same night. First, in the animals' apartment, each horse and. ass appear to evince all the clannishness of its masters, consequently each one of them guards its rights with jealous care, and fiercely repels with heels and teeth any tres^^ass on its space or forage, while in the apartment of the guests the scene is no less lively and unique. Half-a-dozen hungry travelers trying to cook their meals over the one small, smoky fire, and frequently wrangling in dif- ferent tongues for precedence or room ; but to cap 211 the climax it is only necessary that a belated traveler arrive after the otliers are all asleep ; his arrival will first be announced by the frantic yelps of the dogs, who act as advance pickets of the camp, next the asses begin to bray, and the horses to neigh, which wakes up their masters who rush out, arms in hand, ready to defend themselves against the imaginary enemy ; altogether creating a scene, both wild and ludicrous in the extreme. COSTUMES. In point of costume there is but little difference throughout Lebanon. The dress of the male Druzes consists of a coarse woollen frock, which reaches to the knees. This garment is black with white stripes, and is without sleeves. The trousers are of the same stuff, baggy, gathered in below the knees, and falling in folds halfway down the leg. The undergarment is a long tunic (kombaz) of linen, with sleeves reach- ing to the wrists. A sash of white or red cotton, or silk with fringed ends, tied around the waist, sup- ports a powder-flask, a brace of pistols, and a long dirk ; a musket and a cartridge-box are slung over the shoulders. A broad turban, flat on the top, swells out from the head, shading their bronzed vis- ages, and coal-black eyes, adding much to the pe- culiar grandeur, and wild energy of their features. This is the uniform costume of the Druzes, except the emirs and the aJcalsor initiated \ the former dress like Turks of rank ; the costume of the latter is simi- lar to that of the uninitiated, except that their colore are white or black, and they carry no weapons. wi ;h m The dresses of the Maronites are more gay, being of various forms and every color, except the forbid- den ereen, the sacred color of the Moslems. Around the waist they wear a crimson or yellow sash, which sustains a small arsenal of silver-mounted khanjars, yataghans and pistols. The usual apparel of the women consists of an outer pelisse, generally blue, and fringed with silk cord ; it is open in front, and has sleeves to the el- bow ; under this is another robe with sleeves open to the wrist. A shawl around the waist, long and full trousers, and yellow slip])ers complete the cos- tume. But the most remarkable peculiarity in the dress of the women is the immense silver earrings hanging forward on the neck. The head-dress of the girls is very becoming, and they wear their veils witli as much grace and effect as a Spanish belle does her mantilla. FUENITUBE, COOKING UTENSILS AND FOOD. The furniture required by a common family is very limited in variety, and« primitive in style. A cheap carpet, a mattress, a few blankets, some dishes, and plates, one or two platters, a small wooden box for salt, another for pepper, a small leathern bag or bottle for oil and melted butter, a few pipes, a stone mortar for pounding coffee, and a churn ; this latter article can justly lay claim to great simplicity of construction, and great antiquity. It is formed of a goat skin peeled off as nigh whole as possible, and the openings all Eewed up but an aperture at the breech, which is the mouth of the churn. Wlien in use it is suspended Pipe and Box. Khanjars. CofEee Mill. Grinding Com. or rHc ^^\ /' ^'"oF THE UNIVERSITY PASS OF THE JORDAN. fr(;m a sketch recently made on the spot 218 \k PA88 OF THE JORDAN. Tlie difficulties in the way of determining the place where the army of Jephtha held the ford of the Jordan againt the Ephraimites, disappear on an ex- amination of the topography of the country on each bank of the river. Its tributaries on the east and west side, all run between ranges of rocky hills, the ravines all running south-east or south-west, towards the river. At the junction of the Wady Ferah with the Jordan, a sand- ba.'- has been formed, which constitutes this ford or pass. The travel between two important cities — Shechem on the west side of the river, and liamoth Gilead on the east, was over a main highway, which leads to the river at this ford. This is also the most reliable ford between tlie Sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea, especially after a rain, when the other fords are sni-e to be impassable, this one, from the great width of the river at this place, is practicable ; this, with the historical and traditional evidence, leaves no room to doubt that this is the pass at which the guards were stationed to intercept the Ephraimites. BATTLE WITH THE EPHRAIMITES. " And the men of Ephraim gathered themselves to- gether, and went northward, and said unto Jephthah, Wherefore passedest thou over to fight against the children of Amnion, and didst not call us to go with thee ? we will burn thine house upon thee with lire. And Jephthah said unto them, I and my people were at great strife with the children of Ammon ; and Fold Out '•7l' 218 PASS OF THE JOKDAU. The difficulties in the way of determining the place where the army of Jephtha held the ford of the Jordan againt the Ephraimites, disappear on an ex- amination of the topography of the country on each bank of the river. Its tributaries on the east and west side, all run between ranges of rocky hills, the ravines all running south-east or south-west, towards the river. At the junction of the Wady Ferah with the Jordan, a sand- bar -has been formed, which constitutes this foi-d or pass. The travel between two important cities — Shechem on the west side of the river, and Kamoth Gilead on the east, was over a main highway, wliicli leads to the river at this ford. This is also the most reliable ford between the Sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea, especially after a rain, when the other fords are sui-e to be impassable, this one, from the great width of the river at this place, is practicable ; this, with the historical and traditional evidence, leaves no room to doubt that this is the pass at which the guards weie stationed to intercept the Ephi-ainiites. BATTLE WITH THE EPHKAIMITEg. " And the men of Ephraim gathered themselves to- gether, and went northward, and said unto Jephthah, Wherefore passedest thou over to fight against the children of Amnion, and didst not call us to go with thee ? we will burn thine house upon thee with fire. And Jephthah said unto them, I and my people were at great strife with the children of Ammon ; and ■'//AN i'fft ' w Si .'If .'/\\ . -^ HI M m & when I called yo\\, ye delivered me not out of their hands. And when 1 saw that ye delivered 'iiif- not, I put my life in my hands, and passed over against the children of Ammon, and the Lord delivered them into my hand : wherefore then are ye come up unto me this day, to fight against me ? Then Jephthah gathered together all the men of Gilead, and fought with Epln-aim : and the men of Gilead smote Ephraim, because they said. Ye Gilead- ites are fugitives of Ephraim among the Ephi-aimites, and among the Manassites. And the Gileadites took the passages of Jordan before the Ephraimites: and it was so, that when those Ephraimites which were escaped said. Let me go over; that the men of Gilead said unto him, Art thou an Ephraimite ? If he said, Nay ; Then said they unto him. Say now Sliibboleth : and he said Sibboleth: for he could not frame "to pro- nounce it right, Tlien they took him, and slew him at the passages of Jordan : and there fell at that time of the Ephraimites forty and two thousand. And Jephthah judged Israel six years. Then died Jephthah the Gileadite, and was buried in one q/'the cities of Gilead." (Judges xii. 1 to 8.) jephtha's daughter. " Then the Spirit of the Lord came upon Jephthah, and he passed over Gilead, and Manasseh, and passed over Mizpeh of Gilead, and from Mizpeli of Gilead he passed over unto the children of Ammon. And Jephthah vowed a vow unto the Loid, and ii said, If thou shalt without fail deliver the children of Aniinon into mine hands, Then it shall be, that whatsoever cometh forth of tlie doors of my house to meet me, when I return in j)oace fi'om the children of Ammon, shall surely be the Lord's, and I will offer it up for a burnt offering. So Jephthah passed over unto the children of Am- mon to fight against them ; and the TiOrd delivered them into his hands. And he smote then fi'om Aroer, even till thou come to Mmnith, even twenty cities, and unto tlie plain of the vineyards, with a very great slaughter. Thus the children of Ammon were subdued before the children of Israel. And Jephthah came to Mizpeh unto his house, and, behold his daughter came out to meet him with timbrels and with dances : and she was Ids only child ; beside her he liad neither son nor daughter. And it came to pass, when he saw her, that he rent his clothes, and said, Alas^ my daughter ! thou hast brought me very low, and thou art one of them that trouble me : for I have opened my mouth unto the Lord, and I cannot go back. And she said unto him, My father, if thou hast opened thy mouth unto the Lord, do to me according to that which hath proceeded out of thy mouth ; for- asmuch as the Lord hath taken vengeance for thee of thine enemies, even of the children of Ammon. And she said unto her father. Let this thing be done for me : let me alone two months, that I may go np and down upon the mountains, and bewail my virginity, I and my fellows. Ml i. i mi w, K 223 And he said, Go. And he sent her away^br two inontlis : and she went with her companions, and be- wailed her virginity npon the mountains. And it came to pass at the end of two months, that she returned imto her father, who did with her accord- ing to his vow which he had vowed : and she knew no man. And it was a custom in Israel, That the daughters of Israel went yearly to lament the daughter of Jephthah the Gileadite four days in a year." (Judges xi, 29 to 40.) JOPPA is on the coast, and 35 miles n.w. of Jerusalem. In the distribution of the land by Joshua it was given to Dan, and has been known to history ever since.* The city is situated on a promontory which rises to the higlit of 150 feet, is crowned M'ith a fortress, and presents views of historic interest in every direction. Towards the north Sharon and Oarmei are seen. To the south the plains of Philistia. To the east the hills of Ephraim and Judea raise their towering heads, and to the west is extended the Mediterranean. The city is walled around on the south and east towards the land, and partially so on the north side, towards the sea. The site is very steep, so that, viewed from sevei'al points, the buildings have the appearance of standing on one another. The present population of the city is 15,000. With the exception of Csesarea, this was the only harbor possessed by the ancient Jews, and was then, as it is now, the seaport of Je- rusalem The harbor is formed by a low ledge of * About 1443 B.C. it P 'V % % K\ 224 rocks which extend from the promontory into tlie sea, and is shoal and insecure. The cedar timber from Lebanon and materials from Tyre for Solomon's Temple Avere landed here, and with the insecurity of the harbor and the hight of the cliffs where they were landed, the undertaking must have been both hazardous and laborious. HEBPwON. ITS SINGULAR MOSQUE AND QIPOETANT RELICS OF ANTIQUITY ITS FANATICAL PEOPLE. Hebron is 16 miles s.s.e. of Jerusalem, and is beauti- fully situated among the mountains, in a valley run- ning from north to south. Hebron is one of the very oldest cities in the world still existing — being a well- known town when Abraham entered Canaan, 3783 years ago. Its original nam^ was Kiijath Arba, and was sometimes called Mamre. This cit}' was the favor- ite residence of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, and the Bcene of some of the most striking events in their lives. Upon the death of his wife, Sarah, Abraham l)ought from Ephron the Ilittite the field and cave of Machpelah, to serve as a family tomb. Hebron was taken by Joshua from the Canaanites, and was afterwards assig-ned to the Levitcs and made a city of refuge. Here David dwelt during the seven and a half years of his reign over Judah. It was also here that Absalom raised the standard of revolt against his father. A sliort time before the capture of Jerusalem, this .,rii'fff.iii''n::!rjfri"s«i ,1.W:i''!"li I'llt' T'% P' '^w 1. y2'i";-..L,4'«y! -uEIiJ"'"' ' '" \ 8 R A « r or THE UNIVERSITY city was burned by an officer of Vespasian; and about the beginning of tbe 12th century it was taken by the crusaders. In 1187 it reverted to the Mos- lems, and has since remained in their hands. At present Hebron is an nnwalled city, containing nine mosks and two synagogues. The streets are narrow, and the houses are built of stone with flat roofs, surmounted by domes. The manufactories of glass are in the narrow, dark lanes near the north part of the city. The principal articles made are lamps, and rings of colored glass, the latter worn by women on their arms and fingers as ornaments. Large crates of these articles may be seen standing in the streets ready to be loaded on camels for trans- portation to Egypt and various parts of Palestine. The environs of the city are very fertile, f m-nish- ing the finest vineyards in Palestine ; also numerous plantations of olive-trees, and excellent pasturage. The population is now about 5,000, and the inhabi- tants are the wildest, most lawless, and desperate people in the Holy Land ; and it is a singular fact that they now sustain the same mutinous character as did the rebels of ancient times, who armed with David against Saul, and united with Absalom ao-ainst David, Among the remains of antiquity are those of two stone reservoirs ; the largest being 133 feet square and 21 feet deep. They are still in daily use, and one of them tradition says was the " pool in Hebron" above which David hung the assassins of Ishbosheth. But by far the most ancient relic here is the cave of Machpelali — Abraham's family tomb, and the burial- place of the Patriarchs. It bears evidence of great '^ ^£^9 r|^35^^^^^^^^ 228 antiquity; and both tradition and the best anthorities concur in locating the cave of Machpelah here. It is covered by a Mosk — a large and singular structure, with lofty minarets at the corners. The exterior build- ing is large and lofty, and is in the form of a parallelo- gram 200 feet in length by 115 feet in width. The walls are built of very large stones, beveled and finished similar in all respects to the most ancient parts of the temple enclosure at Jerusalem ; indi- cating the high antiquity of the structure, and that it was built by the same people, and the same class of builders as the temple of Solomon. No Christian is allowed to enter this building; but at the left of the principal entrance of the Ilaram is a small hole in the massive wall througli which the Jews are permitted at certain times to look into the interior, and here they may be seen wailing and read- ing prayers. The Mohammedans of Hebron are very bigoted, and jealous of strangers, especially Jews. A few years since a couple of travelers — a Jew and a Chris- tian — stopped for a moment to look up at the marble stairs leading to the tomb of Abraham, when imme- diately a crowd came out of the bazars, and with threats and fierce gesticulations drove them away. Another very interesting relic is found up the valley, about a mile from the town. It is an im- mense oak tree, one of the largest in Palestine, as its bran(;hes extend over a space of nearly a hundred feet in diameter. This is believed by some to be the veritable oak under which Abraham pitched his tent —it still bears his name. "-"THE '^ ^ ^'NJVER8/Ty ANCIENT TADMOR. Tliis city was founded by king Solomon about 995 B.C., and is 245 miles n.e. of Jerusalem, in lat. 3-4°lS', and 8S°13' e. Ion. from Greenwich. It is situated on the borders of the Arabian desert, in the midst of a dreary wilderness, remote from human habitation. Tadmor was about 10 miles in circumference, and the ruins show that it once contained some of the most splendid edifices of antiquity. To facilitate trade and commerce, king Solomon built store cities along the great trade routes through his dominions, in which provisions and other supplies for caravans and travelers were -collected. Tadmor was one of those store cities. " And Solomon went to Hamath Zobah, and prevail- ed against it. " And he built Tadmor in the wilderness, and all the store cities, which he built in Hamath." — (2 Chron. viii.) Its original name was preserved till the time of Alexander, who extended his conquest to this city, and changed its name to Palmyra. In A.D. 211, it become a Roman colony under Cara- calla. Subsequently, in the reign of Gallienus, the Roman Senate invested Oleanthus— a senator of Tal- jnyya— with the regal dignity, on account of his ser- vices in defeating Sapor, king of Persia. On the assassination of Oleanthus, his celebrated wife, Zeno- bia, conceived tlie design of erecting Palmyra mto I W i w ^0^^^^'- f^ an independent monarchy ; and in the prosecution of this object, she for a while successfully resisted the Roman armies, but was at length defeated and taken captive hy the Emperor Aurelian (a.d. 273), who left a Roman garrison in Palmyra. This garrison was massacred in a revolt, and Anrelian punished the city by the execution not only of those who were taken in arms, but likewise bommon peasants, old men, women, and children. From this blow the city never recovered. The present appearance of Palmyra is indeed most striking. An awful stillness pervades the ruins ; they stand as lonely and silent as when tlie last Pal- myrenes left their city forever. The long lines of Corinthian columns, seen at a distance, are peculiarly imposing, and seem like sentinels guarding the tomb of the dead city. The principal ruins are: the great Temple, the Temple of the Sun, the„great Colonnade, supposed to have consisted of 1500 cdmnns, and the Necropolis. In the space around the riins, sometimes a palace is found, of which nothing remains but the court and walls ; sometimes a temple whose peristyle is half thrown down ; then a portico, a gallery, and a trium- l)hal arch. Lying around in every direction are vast stones, half buried, with broken entablatures, mutilated friezes, disfigured reliefs, violated tombs, and altars defiled by dust. The grand old ruins of the ancient city contrast strangely with the Tadmor of the present day — mud huts inhabited by Arabs, The Necropolis of Palmyra lies a short distance N. w. of the Temple of the Sun, in the side of a rav- ii y =^W^ SS^^^^^^g^^l^ 235 ine. The tombs are very numerous and of shigulai foi-m, being towers of from two to live stories liigli. One, the tomb of Jarablichus, built in a. d. 3, is still recognizable, but very much dilapidated, its stairs crumbled away, and the top story gone. An inscrip- tion in honor of the deceased is engraved on a tab- let over the door-way. The tomb of Manaius is one of the most curious structures found here. It is a l<tfty tower, fifteen feet square, the principal apart- ment of which is ornamented with four Corinthian pilasters, one on each side, with recesses between them for mummies. Each recess is divided into five tiers by shelves, only one of which remains in position. There was formerly a large number of mummies in these sepulchres, but the Arabs have carried them away and destroyed them in hopes of disco verin<r ti'casure. Some of the sculptures, now remaining in their original position in the palaces and tombs in Palmyra, are models of decorative art. These works indicate a period of high art culture, when architecture, sculp- ture, and painting were employed to a great extent in public buildings, for both ornamentation and re- ligious purposes. The solidity of the walls, and the excellence of the workmanship, of columns, cornices, and sculptures, and the completeness of the designs of the several structures, are marks of great weah.h and tine taste. t/>m I f^mi. m the guandeuk and beauty of its kuins — king solr omon's seal. Baalbek is 195 miles n. n. e. of Jerusalem, on the slopes of Anti-Lebanon, at the opening of a small valley into the plain El Buka. In extent Baalbek was inferior to many Eastern cities ; but in the size and magnificence of its public edifices, and the immense size of many of the stones with which they were built, this ancient city was with- out a rival. The grand ruins of Baalbek stand at the western extremity of the town, and just within the modern wall. There are three orders of architecture, evident- ly belonging to as many distinct eras. First, the stupendous walls and platforms, built of hewn stones of enormous size, and traversed by vaulted passages in several directions ; secondly, two very large tem- ples, of a later date, sm'mounting the platforms; thirdly, the modern or Saracenic walls and towers, in- corporated with the original structures when the place was converted into a fortress. The modern additions are oddly built up of cornices, architraves, and pillars, and incongruously contrast with the venerable relics which they encumber and obscure. The site of the ruins is nearly a dead level, on which has been reared a platform 1000 feet long, 600 broad, and varying from 15 to 30 feet in higlit. This platform is composed of huge cut stones, tlu'ee of ^^^^^^^^^^g :^i 237 w^liich are so large that it seems incredible that they con Id have been quarried, and brought from the quarry — a mile distant — and placed in position (25 feet above the foundation) by any human agency. One of these stones measures 64 ft. 8 inches in length, 3 9 feet in width, and 14 feet thick ; the others do not vary much from it in size. In the quarry is another of these great stones finished, ready to be moved, which is GOfeet long, 17 wide, 14 thick, and estimated to weigh 1135 tons. Many other stones in the plat- form are from 25 to 30 feet long, or nearly half the size of the above. These stones are cut with the beveled edge exactly like the stones in the foun- dation walls of the Temple enclosure at Jerusalem, from which it would appear that both structures were the work of the same people, and the same class of builders. Among the cities mentioned in the 8th chapter of Chronicles, as being built by King Solo- mon, is Baalath, in Lebanon. The similarity of names and situation very clearly identifies it with Baalbek. Josephus also mentions Baalath as one of the jilaces of pleasure built by Solomon in Syria, on account of its temperate climate and water, and the delicacy of its fruits. The Arabs of the present day believe that the founder of Baalbek was a great magician, and reared these huge structures by the power of cabalistic words, and that if the famous Seal of Solomon could be found, the same power could now be used. The pi-incipal ruins of Baalbek are the great Temple, and the Temple of the Sun. The main walls of the temples and the enclosures correspond C^«2S 1 I to the four cardinal points of the compass. The main entrance fronts the east, and was formerly ap- proached by a grand staircase, leading to a portico flanked by handsome pavilions on the right and left. To the westward of this is a hexagonal court 180 feet in diameter, strewn with columns, mutilated capitals, and the remains of pilastej-s, entablatures, and cornices ; around it is a row of ruined edifices which fifty years ago displayed all the ornaments of the richest architecture — but they are now very much weather-worn and broken. Further to the west is a quadrangular court 350 feet wide by 336 in length. At ojie end of this court are six enormous and majestic columns — the glory of Baalbek, and nearly all that is left of the temple dedicated to the " Great God of Ileliopolis" (Baal). They are tlie principal objects in e^'ery view of the ruins. The shafts of these columns are 21 feet 8 inches in circumference, and 50 feet high, which with base and entablature gives the hight fj-om the ground to the top of the pediment, 120 feet. The length of this edifice was 292 feet by IGO in width. In 1751 there were nine of the columns standing ; but three have since fallen. In the modern wall are found several bases, and other fragments of the fallen columns. Flanking the court of the great temple are the ruins of several smaller structui-es, forming a sort of gallery with chambers, several of which are traced in each of the principal wings. These chambers were decorated with most beautifully sculptured niches and pediments, friezes, and cornices. The beauty of Bome of the friezes is beyond all praise. A bold cor- THE GREAT TEMPLE AT BAALBEK. TEMPLE OF THE StTN, AT BAALBEK. , » R A A? V or THE .V UNIYERSITY ^L I FOR Nit* nice all along the wall gives a fine effect to the whole by forming alternately a semicircle and pointed pedi- ment over each recess. Fragments of the columns that formed the front of these chambers are of beau- tiful granite. Various are the conjectures as to the use of these apartments: "Were they chapels or skrines for tlie worship of subordinate deities ? — or recesses for the philosophei'S to sit and lecture in ? — or was the great court a forum, and these places intended for the con- venience of merchants or civil functionaries ? The Temple of the Sun stands south of the great temple, and the platform on which it stands adjoins the great one, but is considerably lower. The Temple of the Sun is one of the most perfect monuments of its kind in Baalbek, if not in the whole world. Its dimensions are 192 feet in length by 96 in width. It was formerly surrounded by a peristyle of Corin- thian columns, the shafts alone of which were 45 feet high and 5 feet in diameter. They each con- sisted of three pieces of stone so admirably fitted together that not space enough can be found between them to admit the point of a penknife. The north and south sides were each ornamented by fourteen of these magnificent pillars — of which nine on the north and five on the south are still standing. At the west end were eight, of which the three most southerly are perfect — the others broken or prostrate. The frieze and cornice are elegant and complete. The sofiit of the peristyle is concave, and the panels are sculptured in imitation of network, a series of large busts and mythological designs running down Wk m m 242 the centre — each in the middle of a larf^e diamond, and smaller busts occupying the angles formed bj the interlacing comj)artments — a most intricate and indescribable design, but very beautiful. The portico consisted of two rows of columns, of which only four remain perfect. The frieze and cornice above these four columns are in the same ex- cellent style and finish. A battlomented tower has been built over them by the Saracens, who have bar- barously raised a huge wall directly in front of the gate of the temple. The width of this portico is 22 feet ; it is composed of nine stones, six forming the sides and three the top ; the key-stone has slipped partly through, and hangs ominously overhead. The injuries the temple has sustained have most of them resulted from barbarian violence ; the columns es- pecially have been destroyed for the sake of the iron bars by which they were held together. But the tottering condition of the beautiful portal was pro- duced by a concussion more destructive than even the mutilatino; hand of the Mohammedan — the ffreat earthquake of 1750, \ About 450 feet from the south-east angle of the Temple of the Sun is a beautiful little Corinthian temple — circular, and pierced externally with niches, each flanked by two columns, so as to give the struc- ture the appearance of an octagon. Eailhquakes have sadly shaken this little edifice, so that now only four pillars are standing. Beneath the great plat- form on which the two temples stand are spacious vaulted passages of very massive architecture, and solidly constructed. Two of them run parallel with A\ each other from east to west, and are connected bj a tliird riinnino' at right ano-les to them from north to south. They are now used as storehouses and grana- ries. Beneath the Temple of the Sun there are sub- terranean chambers, with flights of steps leading down to them from the interior of the temple ; they are lighted from above, and by openings in the side of the platform. Wliat the original destination of these chambers was, it is now impossible to tell; but the Arabs, who ascribe the whole structure to the great magician King Solomon, and the Djins who wrought his behests, imagine them to be deposi- tories for treasure. Indeed, it is the universal belief among the Turks and Arabs, that every great mass of ruins covers mighty heaps of treasure ; nor can tliey be persuaded that travelers visit them for any other purpose than that of carrying away the spoils. At a short distance west of the great ruins stand eight stumpy columns of Egyptian granite, highly polished, and for the most part without a scratch on them. One of these columns is distinguished from the rest by its green quartz. These columns are true Egyptian granite, and as no such rock is found any- where in Syria, the query is suggested — how could pillars fifteen feet long and three feet in diameter be brought over Mt. Lebanon, which is difficult for travelers to cross, even unencumbered ? Baalbek is now a wretched Syrian callage, with a population of less than 200 ; and the day is not far distant when the jackal and hyena will be undi&- puted masters of this once splendid city. HAMATH. ONE OF KINO SOLOMON S STORE CITIES. namatli is a very ancient city ; and was tne princi- pal city of upper Syria at the time of the exodus (B.a 1491). This city, like Jerusalem and Damascus, has retained considerable importance from the very earli- est times to the present day. It is 250 miles n. n. e. of Jerusalem, and is si- tuated in the valley of the Orontes, about half way between its source, near Baalheh and the bend which it makes at Jisr Hadid. A part of the valley of the Orontes at one time constituted the kingdom of riamath. King Solomon took the kingdom of Hamath, and made the city a depot for stores and supplies. He also huilt other store cities in the district. The government of Ilamath includes about 120 inhabited villages, and 75 that have been abandoned, comprising most of the ancient kingdom of Ilamath. The city now, as of old, stands on both sides of the river, which is spanned by four bridges. The upper part of the city is supplied with water from the river by means of immense water wheels, in the rim of which buckets are so arranged as to empty themselves into stone aqueducts, which conduct the water to the houses and gardens. There are about a dozen of these wheels, the largest being nearly 70 feet in diameter. Extensive ruins of the ancient parts of the city are found scattered about here, but so much decayed as to be scarcely recognizable. The chief iia^iitr,,,,,.. ■ V ^^^^^^^E^ 247 trade of Hamath is with the Arabs, who buy here their tent furniture and clothes ; there is also a con- siderable trade in cotton, woolen, and silk. The present population is 30,000. GEBAL. I ITS STONE SQUAREKS. Tliis was a very ancient seaport of Phenicia, 20 miles N. of Beiiiit, and 182 miles from Jerusalem, via Joppa and the Mediterranean. Gebal was situated on a spur of Lebanon, close to the shore, and had a fine harbor, but which is now filled with sand, ruins of quays, and buildings. The inhabitants were called Giblites — " stone- squarers." Hewers of stone from Gebal were em- ployed on Soloinon^s Temple. The ruins consist of the remains of a castle and extensive walls, and of beautiful columns. The ruins of the castle exhibit some of the best specimens of ancient masonry to be found in Palestine. The stones in its walls are beveled, and some of them are 20 feet in length. The style of the columns, and the extent of the walls, indicate the size and importance of the city. m L A delegation of the inhabitants of this city — Kirjath-jearim, Chephirah, and Gibeon — by resorting to the stratagem of wearing old tattered garments, and representing themselves as having traveled from a far country, deluded Joshua into a treaty of peace with them. Eeeroth is again mentioned in connec- tion with Kirjath-jearim and Chephirah, in the list of those who returned from Babylon. The murderers of Ishbosheth belonged to this city. The modern town stands at the foot of a ridge, and contains about 700 inhabitants. Euins of considerable exter.t are found here, the stones having the Jewish bevel — the same as those in the foundations of Solo- mon's Temple at Jerusalem; and on one of the stones was found a groujp of the private marks of the huilders. KIRJATH-JEARIM. This city is first mentioned as one of the four cities of the Gibeonites, and is 9 miles n. w. of Jerusalem, on the road fi-om Jerusalem to Jaffa. Near Kirjatli- jearim the band of Danites pitched their camp be- fore their expedition to Mount Ephraim and Laish, leaving their name attached to the spot long af ter- wai'ds. One of the first names it bore was that of the Canaanite deity, Baal ; and it was doubtless the sanctity implied by its bearing that name that in- duced the people of Beth Shemoth to appeal to its in- habitants to relieve them of the Ark of Jehovah. \8 Ra1> or THE '^ ^NiVERsrry VNIYERSfTY ) ^^4 <>lUroR^l^^-' / 253 which was bringing such calamities on their untutored experience. The Ark remained in the house of Abi- nadab, at Kirjath-jearim, 20 years; at the end of this time it was removed by David a short distance to the iiouse of Obed-edom, where it remained until its re- moval to Jerusalem. There are but few of the ruins of this ancient city remaining, but those of the largest buildings indicate that they were built by the same class of men who erected the Temple of Solomon, as the stones have the same bevel and finish as those in the foundations of the Temple. On one of them was found a group of the private marks of the builders. The site is now occupied by the village of Kuryet- el-Enab, usually known as Abu Gosh, from the noted robber chief whose headquarters it used to be. SAMAKIA, rrS BEAUTIFUL SITUATION AND GREAT STKENGTH THE TOMB AND CITUKCH OF ST. JOHN. Samaria is 40 miles n. by w. of Jerusalem, and 6 miles N.w. of Shechem. Its situation is strong by nature, and very beautiful. It stands on a large hill, surrounded by a broad deep valley, that is enclosed by four hills — one on each side ; which are cultivated in ter- races to the top, sown with grain and planted with fig and olive trees, as is also the valley. The hill on which the ancient city was built, was chosen by Omri as the site of the capital of the kingdom of Israel. " He bought the hill of Samaria of Shemer for two talents of silver, and 254 I built on the hill, and called the name of the city which lie built, after the name of the o\\Tier of the hill, Samaria." This city was highly adorned with public buildings, and became the favorite residence of the Idngs of Israel instead of Shechem and Thirzah, the former capitals. Ahab built here a palace of ivory, and a temple to Baal — which Jehu destroyed. The natural strength of the position, and its strong fortifications, rendered it nearly impregnable against the then sys- tem of warfare. The Sp-ians twice invaded it ; the first time b. c. 901, and again b. c, 892, but were both times repulsed, b. c. 724, it was attacked ])y the powerful Shalmaneser, kiug of Assyria ; but he did not succeed in taking it until after a siege of three years — when he carried its people away captive. About 667 B. c. it was repeopled by Esar-IIaddon with Cuthites from beyond the Tigris. The city was afterwards taken by Alexander the Great, who put a large part of the inhabitants to the sword, and per- mitted the remainder to settle in Shechem. He re- placed them by a colony of Syro-Macedonians, and gave the adjacent territory to the Jews to inliabit. Afterwards the city came into the possession of Herod the Great, who colonized it with 6,000 veterans and others. He built a wall around it, and a magnificent temple in the centre. How long it maintained its splendor after Herod's improvements does not appear, and henceforth its history is uncertain. Septiraius Severus planted a Roman colony there in the begin- ning of the third century. During the siege of Jeru- salem it fell into the hands of the Moslems. The \^^l ^ •■"HJft^^v^ or rwe £41 J ^^ ii m present village is small and poor, and contains about 200 inhabitants. The most conspicuous ruins are those of the church dedicated to St. John the Baptist, erected over the spot which tradition claims to he thepilace of his hurial. The walls remain entire to a considerable hight, and enclose a large space, in which are now a mosk and the small building over the tomb. The tomb is a small chamber cut deep in the rock, to which the descent is by twenty-one steps. It is said that during the reign of Julian the Apostate, the heathen broke open this sepulchre, burnt the bones and scattered the ashes to the winds. Other ruins are found on three terraces, and consist of a number of columns, twelve of which stand in a row, the others are scattered about. These columns are said to have belonged to the Serai, or Palace. On the second ter- race, heaps of stone, lime, and rubbish are found mixed with the soil in great profusion. On the third terrace but few traces of ruins are found. Most of the public edifices at Samaria appear to have been the work of the same class of builders that built the Temple of Solomon at Jerusalem ; the Jewish rebate and bevel being the prevailing style, and thejprivate marks of the builders found on the stones here are similar to those on the stones in the Tem/ple substructions. fm m The Garden of Eden. — Mount Ararat. — The disper- sion of the jpeojple. — Their location^ or the jplacc^ occupied hy them. — First settlements of the human family. The region embraced between the Black and Cas- pian Seas on the north, and the Mediterranean Sea and Persian Gnlf on the south, may well be regarded as the cradle of the human race, as it comprises the Garden of Eden, where man made his advent on earth ; and Mount Ararat, where the Ark rested after tlie flood subsided, and from whence the remnant of the human family went forth to repeople the earth. In this region their first settlements were made, and here the ruins of the first cities they built are found ; particularly on the banks of the Euphrates and Tigris, and on the east coast of the Mediterranean. THE GARDEN OF EDEN. The only data for determining the location of this important spot is found in Gen. ii. 8, 11, 13, 14. As to the true interpretation of this account, the best authorities are about equally divided ; some claiming that it was in the district at the head waters of the rivei'S ^-^'y^ \ 8 R A /. Of THE < UNIVERSITY ; 261 Euphrates and Tigris, and the Araxes and Phosis; while others beheve that it was between the Euphrates and Tigris, near their junction — about 130 miles n. of the Persian Gulf. That one of these localities con- tained the Garden of Eden there can be but little doubt, as there is no other place which so nearly meets the requirements of the Scripture account. MOUNT AKAEAT is in Armenia, 775 miles n.e. of Jerusalem, about 300 E. of the Caspian Sea, and is in 39° 30' n. lat. and 4:3° 40' E. Ion. fi-om Greenwich. It rises directly out of the plain of the Araxes, and is the loftiest and most imposing mountain in this region, being 17,560 feet above the level of the sea. About 1,200 feet be- low the highest summit is a secondary summit, and between the two there is a gentle depression, in which it is believed the ark rested. Arguri is the only village known to have been built on the slopes of this mountain, and according to tradition it is the place where Noah planted his vineyard. At the foot of the mountain is Nachdje- van, where the patriarch is reported to have been buried. M: \im THE niMEDlATE DESCENDANTS OF NOAH, AND THEIB LOCATION, OE THE PLACES OCCUPIED BY THEM. " And the sons of Noah that went forth of the ark were Shem, Ham, and Japhet these are the i i ^^^^^^^^^E 262 sons of Noah ; and of them was the whole earth over- spread." — (Gen. ix.) Of the descendants of Ham, were Nimrod and Canaan. Nimrod settled in the land of Shinar, a dis- trict above the junction of the rivers Euphrates and Tigris. "And the beginning of his kingdom was Bal)el, and Erech, and Accad, and Calneh, m the land of Shinar." — (Gen. x.) Canaan occupied the east coast of the Mediterra- nean, from Sid on to Gaza, including the hill country in which Jerusalem was built. The descendants of Shem were distributed from Mesha on the Persian Gulf, and towards Sephar, a mount of the east. " By these were the isles of the Gentiles divided in their lands ; every one after his tongue, after their families, in their nations." CHAPTER IX. THE FIRST CITIES BUILT — THEIR KISE, FALL, AND RUINS AS NOW SEEN.* Bahylon, its vast extent — its fall — its remarkdblf ruins — Erech — Accad — Calneh — Nineveh^ a sketch of its history — Its wonderful ruins and inscrip' tions — Damascus — Shechem — Gaza — Bethel — • Bethlehem — Sidon — Jericho. BABYLOK ITS VAST EXTENT ITS FALL ITS KEMABKABLE EUINS. Babel, or Babylon, is the first in order of the four cities built or occupied by Nimrod. It is 300 miles N. \v, of the Persian Gulf, 200 above the junction of the river Euphrates with the Tigris, and 530 miles E. N. E. of Jerusalem. Herodotus, who visited Baby- lon after its conquest by Cyrus, is considered the best authority as to a description of the city, as his account is corroborated by the testimony and re- searches of all subsequent writers, and by the explo- rations and excavations of the present age. He describes the city as a quadrangle of 15 miles on each side, surrounded, first, by a deep, wide moat, filled with water ; and next by a wall 87 feet wide and 60 feet hiffh. The 30 lower courses of brick in * Hebron, Beeroth, Hamath, Jerusalem, and Tyre, are also reckoned araong the first cities. >WB' the wall were wattled with reeds, and the whole cemented by hot asphalt. On each side of the top of the wall was a row of dwelhngs facing each other, the passage between being of sufficient width to admit of turning a chariot with four horses. In the great wall there were 100 gates of brass, 25 on each side of the city ; and between every two gates a tower 10 feet high. Although the outer wall was the chief defense, there was a second wall within, not much inferior in strength, but narrower. The city was divided into two nearly equal parts, by the river Euphrates running from north to south ; and the wall, with wide quays outside, was carried along each bank, the sides of the river being lined with brick. In the middle of each division of the city were fortified buildings; in one the royal palace, with a spacious and strong enclosure ; and in the other the precinct of Jupiter Belus — a square building of 2 furlongs on each side. There were 50 streets in all, running from gate to gate ; each street was 150 feet wide and 15 miles long. The houses were three and four stories high. A bridge, admirably constructed of stones, bound to- gether with plates of lead and iron, was built across the river about the middle of the city. At each end of the bridge was a palace, the old palace being on ilia eastern, and the new on the western, side of the river. The Temple of Belus occupied an entire square of the city. In the middle of this precinct was built a solid tower of one stade, both in length and breath, and on this tower rose another, and so on to the number of eight. An ascent to these was by spiral staii-s, winding Q^ m Rronnd the outside of the tower. About the middle of the ascent was a landing-place, with seats, where those ascending could rest themselves ; and in the top tower stood a spacious temple, and in the temple a beautiful couch, and by its side a table of gold. No statue was erected in it ; nor was any mortal allowed to pass the night there except only a native woman chosen by the god out of the whole nation. The Chaldeans, who were priests of this deity, say the Temple did not attain its full splendor until the time of Nebuchadnezzar, who greatly enlarged and beau- tified it. The summit of the temple was devoted t<j astronomical purposes. Herodotus states that the Greeks learned from the Baby lonians,of the pole star, the sun-dial, and the division of the day into twelve parts ; and Calisthenes the philosopher obtained for Aristotle, Chaldean observations for 1903 years — from the origin of the Babylonian monarchy to the time of Alexander. Berosns, a priest of Belus, appears to have sketched a history of the earlier times, from the delineations upon the walls of the Temple. From Strabo we learn that Alexander attempted to repair the tower, and employed 10,000 men two months in clearing away the rubbish, but he did not live to accomplish the undertaking. With the ex- ception of the stone bridge across the Euphrates, all the great works of Babylon were constructed of sun- dried and kiln-dried bricks, generally stamped with figures or letters. Straw or reeds were laid between the courses, and the whole cemented with bitumen, mortar, or slime. Wi 266 The country around Babylon was intersected bj numerous canals ; the largest of these, the royal canal, connected the Euphrates with the Tigris, and was navigable for merchant vessels. Strabo tells that Alexander inspected the canals, and ordered them to be cleared out, and that in clearing one in the marshes near Arabia, he discovered and examined the sepul- chres of the kings, most of whicli were situated among the lakes. Later writers — Diodorus and Strabo — describe yet more wonderful monuments in Babylon than are mentioned by Herodotus. Among these are a tunnel under the Euphrates, subterranean banqueting rooms of brass, and the famous hanging-gardens. The palace connected with the hanging-gardens was unequaled in size and splendor. Its outer wall had a circuit of six miles, while within it were two other embattled walls and a large tower. All the gates were of brass. The interior of the palace was splen- didly decorated with statues of men and animals, and furnished with vessels of gold and silver, and with every species of luxury, accumulated by Ne- buchadnezzar in his conquests. The population was estimated by Pliny to be -1,200,000, but others placed it at a much lower figure, as a considerable portion of the squares within the walls of the city was used for agricultural pur- poses, so as to render the city self-sustaining in the time of sieges; consequently the population would not be in proportion to the area. Under the reign of ISTebuchadnezzar, Babylon was the Mistress of the East. Pharaoh Necho was the first to take up arms against her, and marched as far as Carchemish, on the Euphrates, where he was defeated by the Baby- lonian army. It was immediately after this great battle that the Chaldeans marched upon Jerusalem, and carried captive to Babylon the Jewish nobles, among whom were Daniel and his three friends, riananiah, Michael, and Azariah, while Judea re- mained a province of the Babylonian monarchy. ITS DECLINE. B. 0. 556, Babylon was taken by Cyrus. Alexan- der the Great made it his capital, b. c. 324, and died there b. c. 323. On the division of his con- quests, Babylon became the kingdom of Selencus and his successors. Seleucus I^icator transferred the seat of empire to Seleucia, 300 stadia distant, on the Tigris; after which Babylon rapidly declined, so that in the early days of Arab power it had dwindled to a mere name, and a. d. 1101 the present tovni of milah was founded on a part of its site. EUEsrs. vast in extent, indescri- The ruins of Babylon are bably grand and desolate, the extensive plain for miles around being covered with lai'ge mounds of earth and brick. Among the rubbish are found fragments of pottery, glass, marble, and vitrified bricks, many of the bricks bearing inscriptions, while the soil itself is BO impregnated with nitre as to destroy all vege- tation. The most extensive ruins are five miles above Ilil- lah, on the left bank of the Euphrates. Here are pi i /mi m S found a series of artificial mounds of enormous size consisting chiefly of three great masses of biiildini^^s: the high pile of unbaked brick-work, called by the Arabs Babil; the building denominated the Kasr, or palace; and a lofty mound, upon which stands a mod em tomb. The principal ruins are surrounded by lines of ram- parts, and an embankment along the river-side Scattered over a large area, on both sides of the Eu- phrates, are a number of notable mounds, nearly all standing single. The most remarkable of these is the vast ruin called Birs Nimroud — the Temple of Belus. This mound is 198 feet high, and has on irs summit a compact mass of brick- work, 37 feet high by 27 broad — the whole being 235 feet in hight. 1 1 is rent into two parts nearly the whole of the way down, and the base is surrounded by immense pile-, of bricks bearing unmistakable evidence of fire. It is laid out in the form of seven terraces, ar- ranged in the order in which the Chaldeans supposed the planetary spheres to exist, each terrace being painted in a different color, representing its respec- tive planet. The lowest stage was black, and consists of bricks covered with bitumen. The second stage represented the earth, and is of brownish bricks. The third stage, Mars, and is of red bricks. The fourth stage, the Sun — yellow bricks. The fifth. Mercury — green bricks. The sixth stage, Yenus — blue, and the ruined tower on the summit, gray bricks. m Wi m ''infill i ^ v A passage has been discovered in the second Etao-e, leading within tiie brick-work ; at the northern and eastern corners of the third stage were found two terra-cotta cylinders inscribed with the history of the building — stating that having fallen into decay in the course of 504 years since it was erected, it had been repaired by Nebuchadnezzar ; this would fix the date of the original structure at 1100 b. c. - The next ruin of importance is the mound of the Kasr, — the site of the great palace of Nebu- chadnezzar. This is an irregular square of about 700 yards each way, apparently the old palace platform, on which are still standing portions of the ancient palace or Kasr. The walls are of pale yellow burnt bricks of excellent quality, laid in lime cement. No plan of the palace can be made, as the ruins lie in great confusion on the highest part of the moimd. The sculptures, inscribed bricks, and glazed and colored tiles found at the Kasr, have caused it to be generally regarded as the site of the large palace celebrated for its hanging-gardens. From the portions of wall standing, and from the surrounding detached masses, it would appear that all the bricks used in this structure were baked, and that the face of each was invariably placed down- wards. In this mound there was found a rudely ex- ecuted elephant, crushing a man beneath his pon- derous weight. On the north side of the Kasr stands the solitary tree called by the Arabs Atheleh, and which, notwithstanding its great antiquity, still bears spread- ing green branches. According to tradition, it shel- (A tered the Calipli Ali wlien sinking with fatigue af tei the battle of Hillah. In the time of Alexander, antique monuments abounded in the Lamlum marshes, 76 miles south of Babylon ; these monuments were said to be the tombs of the Assyrian kings. In confirmation of this, there has recently been discovered in some of them glazed earthen cofiins. In the excavation of these mounds, tens of thou- sands of bricks have been found, all stamped with the combination of characters which reads Nebu- chadnezzar. Stamped bricks are not only found in the ruins of Babylon, but among ruins of towns and cities within an area of 100 miles in length by 40 in width, bear- ing the legend : Nebuchadnezzar, son of Nabopolassar, King of Babylon. The composition of these bricks is such as to render them nearly imperishable, and the inscrip- tions on them, and on the cylinders found here, furnish many chapters of the long-lost history of those remote times — names of kings, and events in their order. Since Darius destroyed the walls of Babylon, over 2300 years ago, its ruins have furnished a never-fail- ing supply of bricks. City after city has been built from its materials. Celeucia, Ctesiphon, Al Median, Kufa, Kerbela, Bagdad, Hillah, besides many other towns and villages, have risen in succession from the ruins of the once vast and proud Babylon. The modern town of Hillah, on the right bank of the Euphrates, stands nearly in the centre of the site !¥^/ BABYLON-ITS MOUNDS OF ETJINS. THE KASB^BABYLON. '■ A /? i.- or THE VNIVERSITy V ^ or f<i "^ 273 of Babylon. It is surrounded by wide walls, and a deep ditch, and has four gates. The city being built from the Babylonian bricks, there is not a room where may not be seen bricks stamped with the name of Nebuchadnezzar. The Euphrates at Hillah, in its medium state, is 450 feet wide and 7^ feet deep, with a velocity of 2^ miles an hour. It annually overflows its banks ; inundating the country for many miles around. The soil is very fertile, and the air salubrious. EEECH'' is about 100 miles 8. e. of Babylon. It is now called Irak. The most noted ruins found here are the immense mounds. El Assayah, and the remains of coffins and bricks, scattered over a large district — in- dicating that it was a city of considerable size and importance. ACCAD is about 70 miles n. w. of Babylon, and is now known as Akari, Babel, and a primitive monument found here is still called Tel Nimrud, wliich signifies the hill of Nimrod. The most remarkable ruin con- sists of a mound or platform on which stands a mass of building, having the appearance of a tower. It is 400 feet in circumference at its base, and 125 feet in lilght above the mound. It was built of bricks ce- * Some authorities believe tiiat Erech, Accad, aud Calneh were suburbs of Nineveh. mented by bitumen, and was divided into layers of from 12 to 20 feet thick, by reeds. There are also remains of reservoirs, canals, and other works, that show the importance of this very ancient city. CALNEH was the last in order of the four cities that were the beginning of Nimrod's kingdom. Its site cannot be determined, but it is believed to be at what was afterwards Ctesiphon, on the banks of the Tigris, about 20 miles below Bagdad. Among the ruins found here are those of a remarkable ancient palace, now called Tank Kesra, which struck the Arab con- querors with amazement and delight. NINEYEH. A. 8KETCH OF ITS HISTORY — ITS WONDERFUL RUINS AND INSCRIPTIONS. Far away in the East is a country, now inhabited principally by tribes of ISTestorians, and roving bands of Arabs, that was once an empire whose power and magnificence were both the terror and marvel of the ancient world. The capital of this empire lay buried in the sands of the earth, with no certain marks of its sepulchre. The extent of our knowledge of the loca- tion of this city was no more than vague tradition — which said that it was hidden somewhere on the wmm:. m^^A fe mil ni\ 275 • river Tigris ; but for many centuries it had existed only in name, a name that suggested the idea of an ancient capital of fabulous size and splendor, a walled city containing many fortifications, palaces, and temples ; a city which had witnessed the tears of many princes and peoples, brought hither captive by its warlike kings. After over two thousand years, the grave of this dead city was found, and its shroud of sand and ruin thrown off — ^revealing to an astonished world its temples, palaces, and idols — its tablets, covered with records of its conquests and power. The Nineveh in which the captive tribes of Israel had labored and wept, and against which the prophecies had gone forth, was, after a sleep of over twenty centuries, again brought to light ; and the proofs of its ancient splen dor beheld by mortal eyes. The site and ruins of this ancient city are on the river Tigris, 510 miles from its mouth, and 550 miles N, E. of Jerusalem. Nineveh was one of the oldest, largest, most powerful, and splendid cities in the world; and contained at one time a population of 600,000. Traditions of its unrivaled size and magni- ficence were equally familiar to the Greeks and Liomans, and to the Ai-abian geographers. The Assyrian Empire at one time included Media and Persia, and was then bounded on the nortli by the Caspian Sea and Ai'menia, on the east by Media, on the south by Arabia, on the s. w. and w. by the river Euplu-ates and Syria. The Assyrians were one of the greatest commercial and manufacturing nations of the East. Assyria, from ^ ^"t^, i ^1 its proximity to the Persian Gulf, with which it was connected by the rivers Tigris and Euphrates, natu- rally became the great highway of trade between the sea-faring nations of the Indian seas and Central Asia, Consequently, Nineveh was a great centre of trade and manufactures, and here the merchants of nearly all the nations of the earth assembled. Assyria was mentioned by Ezekiel as trading in " blue cloth and embroidered work." In these stuffs gold thread was introduced into the woof of many colors, and were the " dyed attire and embroidered work " so frequently mentioned in Scripture as the most costly and splendid garments of kings and princes. The cotton manufactures were equally cel- ebrated and remarkable, and were mentioned by Pliny as the invention of Semiramis, who is mentioned hj many writers of antiquity as having founded large weaving establishments along the hanks of the Tigris and Euphrates. They also acquired the art of manufacturing glass; several bottles, and vases of elegant shape, were found among the ruins of the city. The result of its immense trade, and the number of nations paying tribute to the kings of Assyria, was the accumulation of a vast amount of treasure in Nin- eveh, and the most extraordinary traditions were ol> lerved in antiquity, of the enormous amount of gold collected in that city. As the recent discoveries of Botta and Layard, among the ruins of Nineveh, are exciting great inter- est and attention, a brief sketch of its history will help to render the subject intelligible. This citj m. '/! ' /A ^1 w i ,1. 9S i /' (f 7 ' '-' i was first known to history only as Nineveh ; but it af- terwards became the capital — first of the kingdom of Assyria, then of the Assyrian empire. According to Scripture, it was founded by Asshur about 2230 b.c, but according to Diodorus Siculus (quoting Ctesias), it was founded by Ninus 2183 e.g. This agrees with other good authorities, according to whom As- shur was the founder of tlie monarchy of Assyria, while Ninus founded the Assyrian empii^e and city of Nineveh. Justin, the Roman historian who abridged the history of Trogus Pompeius, in the second cen- tury, gives the following account of Ninus. lie says, " By his lust for empire he first brought wars against the people, as yet unused to resistance, to the very borders of Libya — which name was anciently applied to all Africa " His neighbors there- fore being subdued, when by accession of strength he was stronger, he passed to others, and every new victory being the instrument of the next one, he sub- dued the whole East. " His last war was with Oxyartes, king of the Bac- trians. Here he met with a more powerful resistance than he had yet experienced, but after several fruit- less attempts upon the chief city, he at last conquered it by the contrivance and conduct of Serairamis, wife of Menon, president of the king's council, and chief of Assyria." .... "The ability, courage, and beauty of Semiramis so captivated Ninus, that he used every imaginable persuasion and threat to induce her husband to bestow his wife upon him. Menon, however, would not consent, but in a fit of distraction he destroyed himself, and Semiramis waa 280 il f mi advanced to the regal state and dignity. Niniishad a Bon by Serairamis, named Ninyas, and died after a reign of fifty-two years, leaving her the government of his kingdom. In honor of his memory, she erected in the royal palace a monument, which remained till long: after the ruin of Nineveh." Of the size of this monument, Diodoras speaks in extraordinary terms. Following Ninus, Assyrian records give the names of thirty -four kings who reigned in Nineveh before the reign of Sardanapalus — whose throne was over- turned by an invasion of the Modes, a people who dwelt on the shores of the Caspian Sea. Arbaces, king of the Modes, led his army across the mountains, and made himself king of Assyria, about 804 e.g. After the death of Arbaces the Mede, the Assyri- ans regained their independence. The first of the new line of kings was Pul. In his reign Menahem, king of Israel, invaded Assyria, and gained some temporary successes. In retaliation for which, Pul marched in the following year into Samaria. The frightened Israelites could make no stand against him, and purchased a peace at the price of 1,000 talents of silver. Pul was succeeded by Tiglath Pileser, who also in- vaded Samaria B.C. 753. Tiglath Pileser was succeeded by Shalmaneser (called by the prophet Ilosea, Shalmo). In the ninth year of his reign, he invaded and conquered the king- dom of Israel, and carried the people away captive, 725 B.C. Shalmaneser was succeeded by Sennacherib ('b.o. Xi" ,, or "^•^^L ^^ ^1 m 720). lie invaded Judea in the fourteenth year of tlie reign of Ilezekiah. In his old age Sennacherib, while worshiping in the temple of the Assyrian god Nisroch, was murdered by two of his sons, and was succeeded by his third son, Esarhaddon (about 683 B.C.), who was succeeded by Sardochseus (e.g. 667), who reigned over Nineveh, Babylon, and Israel twenty years. During his reign, Media revolted and gained its independence. The bright days of Nineveh's glory were now past ; disaster followed disaster in quick succession. (e.g. 647) Chyniladan succeeded Sardochseus, and reigned twenty years — Babylon was taken by the Chaldees, and in the year 625 e.g. their leader, Na- bopolassar, ruled that city and the lower half of the valley of the Euphrates and Tigris. Two years later he marched northward against Nineveh, which he stormed and sacked. The city was then laid waste, its monuments destroyed, and a large portion of its inhabitants carried away into captivity or scattered. It never rose again from its ruins, (e.g. 401) Xeno- phon, with 10,000 Greeks, encamped during his re- treat on or very near its site, but does not mention its name. The great victory by Alexander over Darius (e.g. 331) was won almost over the ruins of Nineveh. During the Roman period, a small castle or fortified town stood on a part of the site. The Eoman settle- ment was in its turn abandoned, for there was no mention of it when Heraclius gained the great vic- tory over the Persians in the battle of Nineveh, fought on the very site of the ancient city, a.d. 627. Frequent allusion is male to Nineveh in the Old s^^BSffl^P^'*^^^ I I % 2S2 Testament. The first is in Genesis x. 11, and has reference to its origin. Jonah was sent to this city about 800 B.C. to warn it of its destruction (Jonah i. 1, 2; iii. 1 to 10). The Book of Nahum is devoted to " the burden of Nineveh." Isaiah speaks of the destruction of the Assyrian army by the angel of the Lord — of Sennacherib's return to Kineveh, and his murder by his two sons (Isaiah xxxvii. 36, 37, 38). The last mention of it is by Zephaniah, 630 e.g., " And he will stretch out his hand against the north, and destroy Assyria ; and will make Xineveh a ; Besolation, and di-y like a wilderness " (Zepli. ii. 13). The ruins of Nineveh are mostly on the east bank of the Tigris, opposite the city of Mosul, which also stands on a part of the site of the ancient city. Nine- veh covered an area of nearly 16 miles, being the longest on the river, or from north to south. The ruins consist of shapeless heaps, and mounds of earth and rubbish, some of which are of enormous dimen- sions, and appear in the distance more like natural hills than like the work of men's hands. Upon and around them were found scattered many fragments of pottery, sculpture, and building materials. Some of these mounds had been selected by the natives as sites for their villages and small mud-built forts. The summits of others were sown with barlej' and corn. These mounds differ greatly in size and form ; some are mere conical heaps, while others have a broad, flat summit, very steep sides, and are from 50 to ISO feet high. There are several groups of enclosures and mounds, the principal of which are called Khoi*- sabad, Kouyunjik, Nebbi Yunus, Keramles and Nim i/f(#' fk^ .*! m. Ir rnd. Tliey take their names from the villages in theij vicinity. Mosnl is on the west bank of the Tigris, and at the north-west corner of the site of Nineveh. From Mosul, by the aid of a good glass, a view of most of the ruins of Nineveh may be had. Directlv opposite, on the other side of the Tigris, are the mounds of ruins called Kouyunjik, and Nebbi Yunus ; to the N. E. are the monnds of Khorsabad ; to the s. e. are those of Keramles ; and 17 miles s.s.e. is the impor- tant mound, Nimrud, The ruins opposite Mosul consist of an enclosure, formed by a continuous line of mounds, resembling a vast embankment of earth; but marking the remains of a wall, the western face of which is interrupted by the two great mounds of Kouyunjik and Nebbi Yunus. East of this enclosure is an extensive line of defense, consisting of moats and ramparts. Here and there a mound riiore lofty than the rest covers the ruins of a tower or gateway. A part of the mound' Kouyunjik is very steep, and is 96 feet high ; the top of it is flat, and a small Arab village, now abandoned, stands upon it. Nebbi Yunus is smaller in area than Kouyunjik, but about the same hight; upon it is a Turkoman village, containing the apocryphal tomb of Jonah, and a burial-ground held in great sanctity by the Mohammedans. Eemains of gateways have been discovered in the north and east walls. In addition to the inner wall, there is an enormous outer rampart of earth, — in some places 80 feet high: a few mounds outside of the ramparts were probably de- tached towers. 284 That part of the ruins known as Khorsabad, covers an area of 975 feet by about 800. Near the middle of the south-west side is a cone, which is the most elevated point, being 50 feet higher than the rest of the mound, and presents quite an imposing and singular appearance. Near the northern angle of the mound is an ancient well, the, bottom of which is covered with a stone with seven holes, through which pure fresh water gushes forth in great abundance. ^Yllen first discovered by Botta, a village covered most of the top of this mound. As the countiy is infested with roving bands of freebooters, who do not hesitate to use the sci meter or rifle to obtain plunder, those disposed to make a permanent settlement chose elevated positions ; hence all of the largest of these mounds, when first discovered by Europeans, were covered with villages and scattered habitations. The fortified enclosure of Khorsabad forms a large and very regular rectangle ; the Avail surround- ing it, and which looks like a long tumulus of a rounded shape, is surmounted at irregular intervals by elevations which indicate the existence of towei-s. From the northern angle the wall stretches very regularly to the south-east, becoming more elevated and distinct until it assumes the aspect of a largo causeway ; a great number of fragments of bricks and gypsum being observable on the surface of the soil. Outside of the outer wall a part of a ditch was found ; and in one place a brick wall, containing twelve laj'Crs of bricks, similar to those comprising the mass of the mound. The ruins in this mound consist of parts of halls, EXCAVATIONS AT NINEVEH. f °^ The s^s^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ■ 1 \\\ 287 chambers, and passages, for the most part wainscoted with slabs of gray alabaster, sculptured with figured in relief. The calcined limestone, and the great ac- cumulation of charred wood and charcoal, showed that the building, or at least its roof, had been de stroyed by fire. The mounds of Nimrud, notwithstanding their dis- tance f I'om the northern ruins, are believed by many to be a part of Nineveh. These mounds are about 4 mile* in circumference and terminate at the northwest angle by a great mound 777 feet in circumference, and 14:4: feet in hight, once coated with bricks. Some of these have been found, and are about the same size as tht)se of Babylon, and are inscribed with the arrow- head characters. At the southeast angle of this en- closure is a group of fifty mounds, called by the Ara]:)s the mounds of Arthur. The mound of Nimrud is as clearly defined as that of Khorsabad, which it resem- bles in the quadrangular form of its line of consecu- tive mounds. The great interest in these discoveries cetitres in the inscriptions, illustrations, and sculptures found in the courts, halls, and historical chambers of pal- aces and temples, the most important of which were found in the mounds at Khorsabad, Kouyunjik, and Nimrud. The inscriptions were found on slabs of stone and marble, arranged against the walls ; on cylinders of pottery, images, and on obelisks. These inscriptions are nearly all in cuneatic charactere, which are neither simple nor numerical figures, but alphabetical ; and the inscriptions, like English wri- ting, read from left to right. The character em- f A ' f ^r ployed was the arrow-head, or cuneiform, so called from each letter being formed by marks or elements resembling an arrow-head, or wedge. This mode writing prevailed throughout the Assyrian, Babyloni- an, and Persian Empires. The Assyrian or Babylo- nian alphabet contained over 200 signs or characters, of a very complicated and imperfect nature, some characters being phonetic, others syllabic, and others ideographic. The inscriptions were all systematic- ally arranged, so that in many instances they gave a very full and connected account of public events — principally chronicles of the king who built the edifice where they were found, including a record of his wars and expeditions into distant countries — of the amount of spoil taken, and tribute exacted from the conquered peoples ; of the building of temples and palaces, and of invocations to the gods of Assyria: altogether furnishing a complete key to the long- lost history of the Assyrian Empire and the city of Nineveh. Many remarkable events are represent- ed by figures and ilhistrations, so ingeniously con- trived and arranged, that by the aid of a short in- scription, the story is as plainly told as it could have been by any written account. Among the first discoveries made in the mound' Khorsabad was a hall or entrance chamber between two courts. This cham- ber was 46 feet long by 10 wide, and its entrance was guarded by six colossal bulls, with human heads and eao;les' wina^s — three of the bulls on each side of tlie entrance.* At the front end of the chamber was * The entrance to all of the palaces and temples in the ruins of Nineveh were found similarly guarded. i!'>f^l^^^^^ 289 formerly a strong gate, of one leaf, whicli was fasten- ed by a huge wooden lock, like those still in use in the East (the key to which is as much as a man car well carry), and by a bar which moved into a square hole in the wall. It was doubtless to a key of this description that the prophet alluded : " And the key of the house of David will I lay upon his shoulder ;" and it is remarkable that the word for key in this pas- sage of Scripture — nnsia (IVIuftah) — is the same in use all over the East at the present day. The pavement of this chamber was of slabs of gypsum ; and in the floor, at the entrance between the bulls, was a slab engraved with a long cuneiform inscri|> tion: there were likewise inscriptions between the fore and hind legs of the bulls. Farther on there were holes in the pavement, in which metal bars had been inserted to keep the door open at cer- tain anoles. Arrang-ed ao-ainst each side of this chamber were two rows of marble slabs, each row having two lines of illustrations, which were divided by a band of cuneatic writing, the whole so nearly entire, that it afforded a very complete record of the annual tribute brought by two different peoples to the Assyrian King who occupied the palace Avithin. This chamber, with its colossal bulls, and rows of illusti-a- tions and inscriptions, is a fair sample of many other chambers and passages found in palaces and temples in the mounds — Kouyunjik, Ivhorsabad, and Nimrud ; — and may properly be called historical chambers. In one of these, in the mound Khorsabad, a procession is represented moving do^vn a narrow hall, in two lines, headed by an officer who is conducting it k^^^'-^c 290 into the presence of the King. The tith cf the officer is indicated by the word "inin (Tartan). The first eight persons who follow Tartan, wear the close turban, and are dressed in long tunics, with short over-garments. The first carries the model of a city, indicative of his office of governor of a pro^*ince. At the head of the processio;i is an officer, who is fol- lowed by three persons, the first two each bearing two cnps, the produce of the manufacture of the pro- vince ; and the third bears a sealed bag upon his shoulders, containing the amount of tribute in gold- dust or precious stones furnished by the prince, ruled by the governor at the head of the procession. The arrangement of the procession appears to have been one chief to four men bearing tribute, and con- tained in all thirty persons. The second line of illustrations in this chamber represents another procession, and which, like the first, is headed by a chief officer of tribute. These are evidently a different people from the first ; their hair is arranged in cork-screw curls, their tunics are scanty, and confined at the waist by a sash formed of a col- lection of cords. Over the tunic is a covering made of sheep and leopard skins. The first person is a chief of this people, as signified by his long beard, and his bearing the model of a city ; he is followed by a groom carrying two spears, and leading two horses richly caparisoned, having elegant crested ornaments upon their heads, and tasseled bands across their chests. Following this is a chief, attended by a groom with two spears and two horses, one of which the groom is forcing back into the line of march. After 291 this comes anotlier chief wearing a leopard-skin robe, but not bearing any insignia of office — his hands are held up in the attitude of astonishment and awe. In the last .slab on this side of the chamber is an areh- shaped cavity which received the wooden lock when the valve was completely open. In another line of these illustrations are seen eiglit cliiefs, ten grooms, and fourteen horses. All of the chiefs are in an attitude of surprise. The sculptures on the last slab on this wall are entirely obliter- ated, ha\ang been destroyed by the burning of the door, which was of wood, and probably stood open against the wall when the building was destroyed. In a part of the ruins of the royal palace was found the court of reception, where the offerings were pre- sented, and where justice was administered ; the King's Gate — the gate of Judgment, the " porch for the throne where he might judge, even the porch of judgment." It was in a court of this kind, called :!:'n, teragn, gate in the royal abode of Babylon, that in after-times the prophet Daniel sat when Nebuchad- nezzar had made him "jbirn, " the Sultan or ruler over the whole province," ri--'-|, medinet of Eabylon. Most of the words are even now cur- rent in the couutrj', so that if they were written in Arabic characters, an Arab could read and compre- bend them. Many of the illustrations found represent sieges of cities by the Assyrians — who are always represented as being successful. One of these represents the siege of a strongly fortified place belonging to tlie jteople who wear the sheep-skin garments. Their U % %- V cfistle is fortified by a double wall, and built upon an irregular hill, up the sides of which are urged two battering-rams, at which the besieged are throwing lighted torches to set them on fire. In a part of this ilkistration are seen tents, and various implements hung to the poles of the tents, as is still the practice here among the natives ; the descendants of those ancient people. Another series of illustrations and figures repre- sents the siege of a city situated in a plain, and pro- tected on one side by a shallow river. On one side a satrap, attended by his shield-bearer, is vig- orously pressing the attack. He is habited in a long fringed and embroidered robe, sandals, bracelets, and circlet on his head, and long sword, and is dis- charging arrows under cover of the shield held by his attendant, who wears a helmet, and is partially clothed in mail. From the top of the battlements the besieged are seen pouring some inflammable liquid upon the war-engines of the enemy, who in turn are discharging water from a movable tower to extin- guish the fire. On a lofty tower of the gate the women are seen tearing their hair in the agony of despair, while the men are still making strenuous efi^orts to defend the city. Beneath the towers of the gate are two men disputing the possession of a trea- sure, which they have discovered while undermining the wall. Notwithstanding the resolute defense, the outer works appear to be fatally bombarded, and the people are falling from the walls in every direction. Further on, a number of women and a boy are being led into captivity by a soldier. The women are bare- 293 footed, and wear long robes peculiarly ornamented ; around their necks are scarfs, and their hair hangs over their shouldoi's in long tresses, which they are tearing in despair. "1 will cast thee out and the mother that bare thee into another country. For lo ! our fathei-s have fallen by the sword, and our sons, and our daughters, and our wives are in captivity." This piece of history doubtless represents the reali- zation of the prophecy of Amos — " and the people of Syria* shall go into captivity unto Kir, saith the Lord." " For the king of Assyria went up against Damascus and took it, and carried the people of it captive to Kir, and slew Rezin." The situation of Damascus resembles that here represented ; and the liquid tire used by the besieged was doubtless the petroleum with which that country abounds. in another representation is seen the fate which befell Zedekiali, king of Judah, as recorded in the second book of Kings. In the centre of the group stands the king ; before him are three persons, the foremost of whom is on his knees imploring mercy, and the two others standing in a humble position. The king is represented thrusting the point of a spear into one of the eyes of the suppliant, while he holds in his left hand the end of a cord attached to rings in the under lips of all the captives, who are likewise both manacled and fettered ; and above their heads a cuneatic inscription — perhaps the very words of their supplication for mercy. In another historical chamber is represented a for- m'lv § 1 w r 43- 294 tified city, built upon a considerable elevation, oppo- site to wlii ;h is a still higher hill, surmounted by a castellated tower, from the base of which a narrow stream flo-ns down into the valley that separates the two hills. It is especially to be observed that olive- trees are growing on the hill on which is the tower ; and on the hill in the city is a walk or road, about half-way up, below which, and at the side of the stream, is a row of tombs. The relative situation of these objects exactly resembles the position of simi- lar objects visible in approaching Jerusalem from the east. On the left is Mount Moriah and the high wall of the Temple ; at the foot, the brook Kedron and the tombs of the Valley of Jehoshaphat ; and on the right, the Mount of Olives. In a hall occupied by representations of divinities, is one wliich appears to be connected with the wor- sliip of the Assyrian Yenus, or Astarte. Lucian be- lieves it to be identical with the Moon, or queen of heaven. From the situation of this frieze in the deepest recess of the chamber, and from its having a square slab of gyjDSum in the pavement before it, with a hole communicating with a drain, there can be but little doubt that some mysterious rites were enacted before it. In another place is a representation of cavalry in pui-suit of an enemy ; another scene of pursuit and tliglit, two horsemen armed with spears, and wearing the conical cap, are pursuing one whose horse is fallen. Behind is a falling figure ; overhead is a vulture, beiriiig evidence of ha^-ing preyed upon the slain. •^ In a 1 the sculptures and representations, the swift- ness of the horses, and the ferocity of their riders, ia particularly portrayed. " Their horses also are swift- er than the leopards, and more fierce than the even- ing wolves : and their horsemen shall spread them- selves, and their horsemen shall come fi-om far ; they shall fly as the eagle that hasteth to eat." The Chal- dean cavalry were proverbial for swiftness, courage, and cruelty. Among the most important discoveries in the ruins of Nineveh, is the black obelisk found in the north- west palace at ISTimrud. This obelisk furnishes a chapter of the long-lost history of the Assyrian empire, and a specimen of the style of writing of that period. The inscription on it gives neai'ly a complete history of the reign of Shalmaneser, son of Sar- danapalus, comprising a period of thirty-one years, dating fi'om 891 b. c. It is given in the language of the king himself, and commences with the follow- ing declaration : " This is the palace of Sardana- palus, the humble worshiper of Assarac and Beltis." Then follows an invocation to several deities, with Assarac at their head, as the supreme god of Ileaven. The king gives his titles and then says : — " At the commencement of my reign, after that I was estalj- lished on the throne, I assembled the chiefs of my people and came down into the plains of Esmes, Avhere I took the city of Ilaridu, the chief city belong- ing to K^akharini. In the first year of my reign, I 3rossed the upper Euphrates, and ascended to the tribes who worshiped the god Ilusi ; my servanta erected altars in that land to my gods. Then 1 went on to the land of Khamana, where L founded palaces, cities, and temples. I went on to the land of Malar, and there 1 established the worship of my kingdom. " In the second year, I went up to the city of Tel I'arasba, and occupied the cities of Ahuni, son of llateni. I shut him up in his city. 1 then crossed tlic Euphrates, and occupied the cities of Dabagu and Aburta, belonging to the Sheta, together with the cities which were dependent on them. " In the third year Ahuni, son of Hateni, rebelled against me, and having become independent, estab- lished his seat of government in the city of Tel Ba- rasba Then I went out from the city of Nineveh, and crossed the Euphrates. I attacked and defeated Ahuni in the city of Sitrat, which was situ- ated up the Euphrates, and which Ahuni the son of llateni, had made one of his capitals. The rest of the country I brought under subjection, and Ahuni, son of llateni, with his gods, and his chief priests, his horses, his sons, and his daughters, and all his men of war, I brought away to my country of Assyria. " In the fifth year I went up to the country of Aby- ari ; I took eleven great cities ; I besieged Akitta of Erri, in his city, and received his tribute. " In the sixth year I went out from the city of Nineveh, and proceeded to the country situated on the river Belek. The ruler of this country having resisted my authority, I displaced him, and appointed Tisimba to be lord of the district ; and I there estab- lished the Assyrian sway From the citj of Unien I went ont and came to the city of Barbara. Tlien Hem-ithra of the country of Atesh, and Arhu- lena, of Ilamath, and the kings of Sheta, and the tribes that were in alliance with them, arose ; setting their forces in battle array, they came against me. By the grace of Assarac, the great and powerful god, I fought with them, and defeated them ; 25,000 of their men I slew in battle, or carried away into slavery. Their leaders, their captains, and their men of war I put in chains. " In the seventh year I proceeded to the country be- longing to Khabni of Tel-ati, the chief city of Tel-ati, which was his chief place, and the towns which were dependent on it I captured and gave up to pillage, I went out from the city of Tel-ati, and came to the land watered by the head streams which form the Tigris. The priests of Assarac in that land raised altars to the immortal gods. I appointed priests to reside in the land to pay adoration to Assarac, the great and powerful god, and to preside over the na- tional worship " In the eighth year, against Sut Baba, king of Taha-Dunis, appeared Sut-Bel Herat, and his fol- lowers " In the ninth year a second time I went up to Armenia, and took the city of Lunanta. By the assistance of the gods Assarac and Sut, I obtained possession of Sut Bel-herat, in the city of Umen — I put him in chains. Afterwards Sut Bel-herat, together with his followers, I condemned to slavery. Then 1 went down to Shinar, and in the city of W^ m ' m Vl-I mM m V^'ll :;^ ^P^R^^ 298 Shinar, of Borsippa, and of Ketika I erected altars, and founded temples to tlie great gods " In the tenth year, for the eighth time, I crossed the Euphrates. I took the cities belonging to Ara-lura of the to"wai of Shalumas, and gave them up to pillage. . . ... I took the city of Arnia, which was the capital of the country, and I gave up -to pillage 100 of the de- pendent towns. I slew the wicked, and carried of( the treasures. At this time Hem-ithra, king of Atesh, Arhulena, king of Hamath, and the twelve kings of the tribes who were in alliance with them, came forth, arraying their forces against me. They met me, and we fought a battle, in which I defeated them, making prisoners of their leaders, and their captains, and their men of war, and putting them in chains " In the thirteenth year I descended to the plains dependent on the city of Assar-animet. I went to the district of Yata. I took the forts, slaying the evil-disposed, and carrying off all the ^vcalth of the country " In the sixteenth year I crossed the river Zab, and went against the country of the Arians. Set Mesitek, king of the Arians, I put in chains, and brought his wives, and warriors, and his gods, captives to my country of Assyria ; and I appointed Tanvu, the son of Khanab, to be king over the country in his place. "In the twenty-first year, for the twentieth time, I crossed the Euphrates, and again went up to the country of Khazakan of Atesh. I occu- pied his territory, and while there received tribute iS pi 11 :%i 1^11 from the countries of Tyre, of Sidon, and of "In the twenty-second year, for the tM'enty-first time, I crossed the Euphrates, and marched to the country of Tubal. Then I received the submission of the twenty-four kings of Tubal " In the twenty-third year I again crossed the Eu- phrates, and captured the city of Huidara, the strong- hold of Ellal of Meluda ; and the kings of Tubal again came in to me, and I received their tribute. " In the twenty-fourth year I crossed the river Zab, and passing away from the land of Ivharkhar, went up to the country of the Arians. Yanvu, whom I had made king of the Arians, had thrown off his allegiance, so I put him in chains. " I then went out from the land of the Arians and received the tribute of the twenty-seven kings of the Persians. Afterwards I removed fi-om the Per- sians and entered the territory of the Medes, going on to Katsir and Kharkhar I established the authority of my empire in the city of Kharkhar. Yanvu, the son of Khaban, with his wives and his gods, and his sons and his daughters, his servants, and all his property, I carried away captive into my country of Assyria " In the thirtieth year, whilst I was still residing in the city of Calath, I summoned Detarassar, the general of my army, and sent him forth to war in command of my cohorts and forces. " Huelka, of Minni, had thrown off his allegiance, and declared himself independent, establishing his Beat of government in the city of Tsiharta. My w m m i ''! W/- m ils ^' 1: isJ}, 300 general therefore put him in chains, and carried ofi his flocks and herds, and all his property, and gave his cities over to pillage. " In the thirty-first year, a second time whilst I abode in the city of Calah, occupied in the worship of the gods Assarac, Hem, and ISTebo, I summoned the general of my army, Detarassar of Ittana, and I sent him forth to war, in command of my troops and co- horts. He went ont accordingly, in the first place to the territories of Daten of Hubiska, and received his tribute ; then he proceeded to Enseri, the capital city of the country of the Bazatsera, and he occupied the city of Enseri and the thirty-six other towns of the country of Bazatsera. And he afterwards moved to the country of the Arians, where, by the help of the gods Assarac and Sut, he captm'ed their cities, and continued his march to the country of Kharets, taking and despoiling 250 towns, until at length he descended into the plain of Esmes, above the city of Umen." RELICS. Many curious relics have been discovered among the ruins of Nineveh. At Nimrud fragments of bronze furniture were found belonging to the palace — terra-cotta vases, some of which were glazed with a blue vitrified substance ; three engraved cylinders or rolling seals, one of which is of transparent glass ; a silver ring ; fragments of ivory, delicately carved, some being gilt. Many painted bricks were found, some of them cylindrical in form. On the sides of these bricks were stamped cuneiform writ ings, showing that a very near approach to the art of printing was made by the Assyrians over 3000 year ago. Besides the letters on the bricks, there was dis- covered on one of them the footprints of a weasel, which must have sported over the brick before it had been baked. Thus the little animal and the mighty king had stamped the record of their existence on the same piece of clay. In excavating in the mound Khorsabad, a large gate was discovered, which appears to have been one of the entrances to the city ; two long rows of columns, also the cellar of the palace, containing regular rows of jars, which had the appearance of having been filled with wine, for at the bottom of the jars there was a deposit of a violet color. In.another place cop- per nails, of various shapes and sizes, were found, which doubtless belonged to the roof, as some of them had undergone the action of fire when the roof v^as burned, and were partially melted. A ring was found fixed in the wall above a bronzed lion. A fragment of a circle was also found, which was doubt- less a part of a wheel, as on its inside the ends of spokes are still to be seen. One of the courts was paved with square kiln-baked bricks, on which was stamped a cuneatic inscription containing the name of the king who built the palace. Before the three doors of the fa9ade forming the porch are holes the size of one of the bricks, and about 14 inches in depth. These holes are lined with tiles, and have a ledge round the inside, so that they might be covered by one of the bricks without betrajang the existence of 302 the cavity. In these cavities were found small imagea of baked clay of frightful aspect, some with a human head and a lion's body, others with a lynx's head and human body. At the entrances of temples and palaces were found — first, either symbolic bulls or winged divinities, on ^vhich were long inscriptions, always the same, prob- ably incantations or prayers followed by the aforemen- tioned secret cavities, in which images of a compound character were hidden. Thus the sacred and tlie royal precincts were trebly guarded by divinities, in- scriptions, and hidden gods, from the approach of any subtle spirit, or more palpable enemy that might have escaped the vigilance of the guard. In a floor beneath a mystic basso-relievo was found a slab 10 feet by 8, and two feet thick, which was ascended by steps, the sides being inscribed, and appeared to have been used in connection with some sacrifice. Around the slab was a conduit, to carry off the blood of the victim, and under the stone there were found some bones, and some fragments of gold leaf. Besides this there were two other hollowed square stones, in the north-eastern corner of the chamber. The ground on which the city of Mosul stands is also a part of the site of Nineveh ; and here too are several mounds of ruins, the sculptures and inscribed slabs from which have been used as building mate- rial by the natives ; but the authorities have not yet permitted an examination to be made here. Beker Effendi, while disffins in the mound Kou- yunjik for stone to build the bridge at Mosul, found a Pi m\ III, M ^ 1 a- ^^ M ^S ' ■ \^y ;<^ M yl 1 c?y |§P « j{j ^^ g^ ^^ i^frpy [~. -^"^ — ij ' ■'■ a J gfeaaBMB jH]^^^ wz~ rt ^^ ^^3^^^ |M^ L^S ffl |j ^ Sl^^ A^gn|Hi sepulcliral chamber in which was an inscription, and among the rubbish the following articles: A woman's (Idial khal) ankle bracelet of silver coi"d with turquoise, colored with rust ; a bracelet of gold beads, quite perfect; and some pieces of engraved agate. Among the latest discoveries made at Nineveh are those by Layard in the mound' Nimrud. lie effected an entrance into the old Nimrud palace, where he found an extraordinary collection of relics — swords, shields, bowls, crowns, caldrons, orna- ments in ivory and mother-of-pearl. The vessels were formed of a kind of bronze, some of them perfectly,, preserved, and as bright as gold when the rust was removed. The engraving and embossing on them comprise mystic subjects, and are very elaborate and beautiful. In excavating in another part of this mound, he penetrated a mass of masonry, within which he discovered the tomb and statue of Sarda- napalus, accompanied by full annals of that monarch's reign engraved on the walls. He also f oimd tablets of an sorts — all of them being historical. But the crowning discovery made by Layard was in the mound, Kouynnjik. The great palace there had evidently been destroyed by lire, but one portion of this edifice seemed to have escaped its influence ; and in exca- vating in that part, he found a large room filled with what appeared to be the archives of the empire, ranged in successive tablets of terra cotta, the writ- ings being as perfect as when the tablets were first stamped. They were piled in huge heaps from the floor to the ceiling. From the progress already hm^ ^1 i 306 made in reading the inscriptions, the contents of these tablets will doubtless be made out. There is a jpaS' sage in the hooh of Ezra, where the Jews, having heen disturbed in building the temjyle, prayed that search might be made in the house of records for the edict of Cyrus, permitting them to return to Jeru- salem. The chamber above mentioned might be presumed to be the house of records of the Assyrian kings, where copies of the royal edicts were didy de- posited. The condition of the ruins of Nineveh is highly corroborative of the sudden destruction that came upon that city by fire and sword, and the representa tions and inscriptions found on the walls of the many chambers and courts afford a strong confirmation of the prophecies. "Then shall the fire devour thee, the sword shall cut thee off." It is evident from the ruins that the city was first sacked and then set on fire. " She is empty and void, and waste." " For the stone shall cry out of the wall, and the beam out of the timber shall answer it. Woe to him that buildeth a town with blood and establisheth a city by iniquity" — the latter prophecy unmistakably indicating the rapacity and cruelty of the Assyrian nation,. The veritable descendants of the ancient inhabi- tants of Assyria and Nineveh are found in the Chaldean or Nestorian tribes, inhabiting the moun- tains of Kurdistan, and villages in the neighborhood of the ruins of Nineveh. Most of the so-called Arabs here are also descendants of the ancient inhabitants of the provinces of the Assyrian empire. These people Btill speak a Shemitic dialect, almost identical with \m IIM f i ^1 the Chaldee of Daniel and Ezra. Their physical character also marks them as the same race. Although the soil is rich and fertile, and capable of sustaining a vast population, still a curse appears to hang over the land, and the number of its inhabi- tants is yearly diminishing, so that there seems to be no prospect that for generations to come this once favored country will be other than a wilderness. DAMASCUS. ITS GREAT A^"TIQUn'Y A SKETCH OF ITS HISTOEY ITS SINGULAB ANCIENT RUINS. This is the oldest city in the world still standing, and was an ancient city in the time of Christ. For over four thousand years Damascus has been a spec- tator of the events of the world. She takes note of time not by months or years, but by the kingdoms and empires she has seen rise, flourish, and pass away. From villages she saw Baalbek, Thebes, and Ephesus grow into cities that amazed the world with their size and grandeur — then witnessed their decay and desolation, and saw their ruins inhabited by owls and bats. She saw the kingdom of Israe' lise, estab- lish its capital at Jerusalem, become mighty, build the ^^onderful Temple of Solomon, and she saw it anni- hilated. She witnessed the advent of Greece amon» the nations of the earth — witnessed her career of two thousand years ; then saw her perish. In her old age Damascus saw Kome built, the Roman Empire 'Ml m m w i R^ 308 rise and overshadow the world with its power, then Baw it perish. She has noted the rise and fall of a thousand empires, and will doubtless see the tombs of a thousand more. According to Josephus, Damascus was founded by Uz, son of Aram, grandson of Shem, and although it dates so far back in the history of the world, still but little is known of this city until the time of David, 1041 B. 0. Damascus was formerly the capital of the kingdom of Syria, and in the reign of David the Syrians of Damascus came to assist Hadadezer, with whom David was at war, but were completely defeated, and their territory garrisoned with Israelites by David. In Solomon's time, however, the Syrians threw off the foreign yoke, and in a few generations became a formidable rival of Israel. The two Benhadads — father and son — wao-ed long and bloody wars with the kings of Israel, and when Hazael killed his master and seized the throne of Damascus, it fared still worse with the Israelitish territories. He defeated the united forces of Israel and Judah, seized the country east of the Jordan, made the king of Israel his tributary, and even levied a contribution on Jerusalem. In New Testament history, Damascus is chiefly cel- ebrated as having been the scene, not precisely of St. Paul's conversion, but of his residence for a short time after his conversion, and his first labors in the cause of Christ. At that time the city contained a large Jewish population. Afterwards it became the seat of a Chi-istian bishop, who ranked next in that .^ A2fCIENT WALLS OF DAMASCUS. DAMASCUS, FEOM SALAHITEH. r¥m m quarter to the patriarch of Antioch, and among the bishops who took part in the Council of Nice (a. d. 325) was Magnus of Damascus. But in process of time the Christian influence in Damascus was over- shadowed by the Mohammedan, a. d. 635, the city fell into the liands of Khalif Omar — the Khalifs of the house of Ommyah even fixed their residence in it — so that Damascus again became the capital of a powerful empire. For nearly a century it sent forth armies that spread terror from the plains of Langue- doc to those of Hindustan. But the dynasty of the Onmiyades at length gave way to that of the Abas- sides, which fixed its seat at Bagdad and governed Damascus by a prefect. Subsequently, the city shared in the manifold vicissitudes which passed over the provinces of Western Asia, till a. d. 1516, when it fell into the hands of Sultan Selim I. ; from which time it has remained under the sway of Turkey, the head of a large pashalic, and the most populous and flourishing city in Asiatic Turkey. In tenacity of existence, and the power of retain- ing a certain measure of prosperity under all dynas- ties, and through the most varied successions of for tune, this city stands uniivaled in the world's history. Damascus is 150 miles n. e. of Jerusalem, and is situated in a plain at the foot of the most eastern range of Anti-Libanus — 2300 feet above the level of the sea, which gives it a temperate climate and cool breezes. The plain in which the city stands is 50 miles in circumference — open to the desert of Arabia on the south and east, and bounded on the north and west by the mountains. mm Mi ■m ■{■■ I' V^: m ■S-P $k m 312 The river Barada (ancient Abana) and its branches run through the city — which, with the river Pharpar, water and render very fertile a tract of country 30 miles in extent. The traveler, approaching Damas- cus from any direction, is fascinated by the view. In the midst of a vast plain is seen an island of deep verdure, walnuts and apricots waving above, — corn and grass below, and in the midst of this mass of f(jliage Damascus, with its white streets and lofty minarets. It is the most purely Oriental city remain- ing of all that are named in the Bible. Its public buildings and bazars are fine; and many private dwellings, though outwardly mean, are decorated within in a style of the most costly luxury. Its posi- tion has made it from the first a commercial city. The cloth called damask originated here ; the Damask rose is a native ; and Damascus steel has never been equaled. It still carries on an extensive traffic in woven stuffs of silk and cotton, in fine inlaid cabinet- work, in leather, fruits, sweet-meats, and every branch of Eastern commerce. For this purpose, huge caravans assemble here at intervals, and traverse as of old the desert routes to remote cities. Here, too, is a chief gathering-place of pilgrims from the north to Mecca. The principal street is the one which tradition claims is the street called Straight in the Bible, and in which Saul took up his abode after his conversion. This street runs through the city nearly east and west, ?ind is about a mile in length. It is not now by any means what it was in ancient times. In the Roman age, and up to the time of the Mohaminedan con- 1 315 quest, it was a noble street, extending through the city, much longer and wider than at present. It was divided by Corinthian colonnades into three avenues, opposite and corresponding to the three portals. The remains of these colonnades have been traced over a third of the length of the street. Wherever excava- tions are made in the line of the street, bases of col- umns are found, and fragments of shafts lying pros- trate under accumulated rubbish. This street was like those seen in Palmyra and Jerash; but the devastations of war, and the vandalism of Turkish rulers, have destroyed most of its ancient grandeur. Saul of Tarsus was particularly bitter against the then new sect called Christians, and started on a cru- sade against them. He went forth " breathing threat- enings and slaughter against the disciples of the Lord." "And as he journeyed he came near Damascus, and suddenly there shined round about him a light fi-om heaven. And he fell to the earth and heard a voice saying unto him, ' Saul, Saul, why persecutest thou me ? ' And when he knew that it was Jesus that spoke to him he trembled, and was astonished, and said, 'Lord, what wilt thou have me to do ? ' " He was told to enter the city, and one would tell him what to do. Saul rose up and found that he was blind, so " they led him by the hand and brought him to Damascus, where he lay three days blind in the house of Judas * (which was in the street called Straight), during which time he neither ate nor drank. Then there came a voice to Ananias, saying, * Arise and go into the street called Straight, and inquire at the house of Judas for one * Not the Jndas who betrayed his Master. called Saul of Tarsus; for behold he prajeth. '' Ananias went as ordered, found Paul, and ordained him to preach. At a short distance from the street called Straight is the reputed house of Ananias, and in a part of it is a room some 14 feet under ground, the masonry of which bears evidence of great an- tiquity, and is doubtless a part of the house of Ana- nias. The house of Naaman is also pointed out. Naaman was commander of the Syrian armies, but was a leper. The house said to have been his, is now a hospital for lepers. Among the most important public structures is the castle in the n. w. part of the city, and above all the great Mosque of the Ommyades, which was originally a heathen temple, and afterwards the church of Si. John the Baj>tist. It occupies a quadrangle of 489 feet by 324 ; is of various styles of architecture, divided into naves and aisles by Corinthian pillars ; has a floor of tesselated marble, and three minarets. Besides this there are 80 smaller mosques, the domes and minarets of which are among the chief archi- tectural ornaments of the city. The Gates of the city are the Gate of the Camels, leading to the Arabs' rendezvous; the Paradise Gate, a large gate with a gloomy archway leadino- into a bustling bazar, near the centre of the south wall, and " Bab Tooma" or Gate of Thomas, so called in memory of the brave Christian champion who so nobly withstood the Saracen besiegers. The bazars of Damascus present varied and strik- ing scenes ; and the traveler is bewildered amid the gay colors of the various articles exposed for sale. i^i \^ 317 and the groups of people that are seen passing and repassing in all the different and singular costumes of the East. Here may be seen Agas moving with slow and stately tread, dressed in white turbans and scarlet silk cloaks edged with costly fur, with diamond-hilted kandjars and yataghans gleaming in their girdles : they are followed each by five or six obsequious retainers, and a black slave car- ries their pipes and scarlet tobacco-bags. Swarthy, grim-visaged Arabs and Bedouins from the great desert, with their coarse cloaks hanging upon them like the drapery of an ancient statue, congregate round the tobacco-shops, tlie armorers, and saddlers. Frequently the crowd is compelled to make way for a procession of great men on horseback ; or culprits led about the streets preceded by an officer shouting their crimes, and calling upon all to take warning. The bazars are graced with the presence of women, who make all the purchases for the household ; and the gallantry displayed by the shopmen in dealing with their fair customers seems to invite them to linger over their purchases, very much as their more civilized sisters do in London and New York. In the day-time the narrow streets swarm with men, women, and children. But at night there is but little travel, as the streets are not lighted, and those who do go out carry lanterns as in ancient times. The present population of Damascus is 150,000, of which 130,000 are Moslems, 15,000 Christians, and 5,000 Jews. The Moslems are very fanatical and vindictive against Christians and all who are not Mohammo- Ml % Wm dans: and in July, 1860, they massacred 6,000 of the Christian population, and burned their quarter of the city. Their thirst for the blood of Christians extended to the mountains of Hermon and Anti- Lebanon, and in a short time 25,000 more were slaughtered and their possessions laid waste. Among the Christian population were members of the ancient Order of Masons, and this fearful uprising and massacre was checked by one of their number — Abd-el-Kadir — a Mohammedan himself, but of large and noble nature. This man saved many thousands of lives by his prompt and resolute action, at the yl'^ I time when Moslem fanaticism threatened the destruc- tion of every Christian in Damascus, and indeed in all Syria. Tliis may well be regarded as one of the most brilliant and chivalric acts of fraternal de votion that has been exhibited in modern times. SHECHEM, NOW NABULUS — ^JACOb's WELL THE TOMB OF JOSEPH. This ancient city is 29 miles north of Jerusalem, between mounts Gerizim and Ebal. It is first men- tioned in the history of Abraham, who here erected his first altar in Canaan, and took possession of the country in the name of Jehovah, When Jacob arrived here fi-om Mesopotamia, Shechem was a Ilivite city, of which Ilamor, the father of Shechem, was the head man. At this time the patriarch pui-- chased from that chieftain " the parcel of the field," which he subsequently bequeathed to his son Joseph. m k 'i.^^- £5^■'A The value of tliis field was greater on account of the well which Jacob had dug here, so as not to be de- pendent on his neighbors for water. The defilement of Dinah — Jacob's daughter — the capture of She- chem, and the massacre of the male inhabitants by Simeon and Levi, are events of this period. Joshua assembled the people here shortly before his death, and delivered to them his last counsel. After the con- quest of Canaan, Shechem became a Levitical city, a city of refuge in Ephraim and a gathering-place of the tribes. After the ruin of Samaria by Shal- maneser, Shechem became the capital of the Samari- tans ; and at the present day it is the seat of a small remnant of that people. The enmity between the Samaritans and Jews is still as great as in the time of Christ. The present population is about 10,000, consisting of 150 Samaritans, and between 500 and 600 Chris- tians, 100 Jews, and the rest Arabs and Mohamme- dans. The main street runs e. and w., and contains a well-stocked bazar. Most of the other streets cross the main street, and in the cross streets are the small shops and work-stands of the artisans. Many of the streets are narrow and dark, as the houses hang over them on arches, very much the same as in the closest parts of Cairo. There are no public buildings of any note except the Keniseh, or Synagogue of the Samari- tans, and five mosques. The synagogue is a small edifice about four centuries old, containing nothing remarkable except an alcove screened by a curtain, in which their sacred writings are kept. The houses are high, built of stone with flat roots, 322 and surmounted by small domes. Tliere are man^ springs and natural fountains in and about the city, and some of the many beautiful gardens are watered from the fountains, while others have a soil suffi- ciently moist. Figs, almonds, walnuts, oi*anges, grapes, and pomegranates are abundant. But the olive now, as in ancient times, is the principal tree. This city being, as it were, the gateway between Jaffa and Beirut, on the coast and the interior, is the seat of an active commerce and of a comparative Inxury to be found in but few Oriental cities. Here are manufactured many of the coarse woolen fabrics ; cloth of camel's hair, and delicate silk goods. The most remarkable antiquity here is Jacob's well. It is covered by an arched stone chamber, entered by a narrow hole in the roof. The mouth of the well is covered by a large flat stone with a cir- cular aperture, and its depth is 105 feet. This well is on the road from Jerusalem, and is visited by many pilgrims every year. It bears every mark of great antiquity, and is so clearly marked by the Evangelist, that if no tradition existed for its iden- tity, the place could not be mistaken. Wearied with his journey, the Saviour sat near this well and taught the Samaritan woman, saying — " God is a spirit, and they that worship him must worship him in spirit and in truth." Upon the return of the woman to the city she reported her remarkable inter- view with Jesus to the people, upon which they flocked out to hear him. In addressing them, Christ pointed his disciples to the waving fields of grain the plain around, exclaiming, " Say not ye there fry 1: 1 are yet four months, and then cometh the hai'vest? Behold, I say unto you, lift up your eyes and look on the fields ; for they are white already to harvest." The tomb of Joseph is about a quarter of a mile north of the well. It is a small square enclosure of high walls surrounding a tomb of the ordinary kind. An altar black with the traces of fire is at the head, and another at the foot of the tomb. In the walls are two slabs with Hebrew inscriptions, and the interior is almost covered with the names of pilgrims in He- brew, Arabic, and Samaritan. The base of Mt. Ebal, opposite the city, is full of ancient excavated tombs, and on Mt. Gerizim are the ruins of a strong fortress. i GAZA is in the s. w. corner of Palestine, 45 miles s. w. of Jerusalem. It is first mentioned in Genesis as a border town of the Canaanites (b. c. 1920). It was one of the chief cities of the Philistines, and is re- markable for its continuous existence for over 3,800 years. Gaza is situated on the main road between Syria and the valley of the IMile. Its commanding position and strong fortifications rendered it import- ant in a military as well as commercial sense. Its name (=the strong) was well elucidated in its siege by Alexander the Great, which lasted five months, and in which he was wounded. In the conquest of Joshua the territory of Gaza is mentioned as one he was not able to subdue. Samson carried away its gates, but afterwards perished under the ruins of its vast temple. At subsequent periods Gaza was occupied R by Chaldeans, Persians, and Egyptians. The Jewish king, Alexander Jannseus, captured it about 96 b. q In A. D. 634 it came nnder Moslem rule. The modern town stands partly on an oblong hill and partly on the low ground, and contains a popula- tion of about 15,000 inhabitants. The climate of this place is nearly tropical, but it has deep wells of excellent water. The ruins of the old city cover a large hill, which is about three miles fi'om the sea. Among the ruins are those of the fortress that so long withstood Alex- ander the Great. BEERSHEBA. Beersheba (the "Well of the Oath) is 28 miles south- west of Hebron — at tlie southern extremity of the Holy Land ; Dan lay at the northern extremity ; so that the phrase, from Dan to Beersheba, meant from the northern to the southern end of Palestine. Abra- ham dug a well here, and gave the name Beer- sheba, because here he and Abimelech, King of the Philistines, "sware" both of them, but the compact was ratified by the setting apart of " seven ewe lambs," and from the Hebrew word, Sheba, — seven, the name of the place. The town that rose here was first assigned to Judah, and then to Simeon. It was a seat of idolatry in the time of TJzziah. After the captivity it was re- peopled by the Jews, and continued a large village many centuries after the coming of Christ, There are at present on the spot two large wells and five SH5fc. 'rfp) 329 smaller ones. The large wells are 100 yards apart, and are visible from a considerable distance. The larger of the two is 12^ feet in diameter, and 44: feet to the surface of the water, which is excellent. These wells are surrounded by drinking-troughs of stone, for camels and flocks ; such as they doubtless have been from patriarchal times. The curb-stones round the mouth of these wells, like those of a few other ancient wells in Palestine, have deep grooves worn in them by the action of the ropes used in drawing up the water during so many centuries. North of the wells, on some low hills, are the ruins of a town of considerable size, the name of which is unknown. Beersheba is interesting from its associations, ra ther than from its intrinsic importance as an inliab- ited place. Here Abraham planted a grove, and worshipped Jehovah, the ever-living God. From here he set out to offer up Isaac as a sacrifice on Moimt Moriah ; the place where Isaac resided when he was bowed down under the infirmities of age ; where Jacob stole the blessing from him, the blessing that was meant for Esau ; the place where the two brothers met to con- vey the remains of their aged father to the cave of Machpelah. BETHEL, NOW BEITIN, is 10 miles north of Jerusalem, on the right of the ancient road to Shechem. It occupies the spot near where Jacob slept and had his remarkable dream, in -53 - ... 330 which he saw the ladder reaching from earth to heav en, and the angels of God ascending and descending npon it. Abraham first pitched his tent in Palestine on the high ground eastward of this spot, still one of the best tracts of pasturage in the whole land. After the destruction of the Baal worship by Jehu, Bethel comes more prominently into view, and in the time of Jeroboam II. it was a royal residence, with a "king's house," and altars. Another mention of the altar of Jeroboam, with its last loathsome fire of " dead men's bones " burning upon it, is found in the account of Josiah's iconoclasm (xxiii.). The men of Bethel and Ai returned with Zerubbabel from Babylon. The ruins of the ancient city are found on the south side of a hill, and cover nearly four acres of ground. They consist of many foundations, and crumbling walls of houses and public buildings. On the highest part of the hill, towards the n. n. w., are the remains of a square tower, and near the southern Doint are the walls of a church, standing within the foundations of a larger and much more ancient struc- ture. The ruins of other churches are also found in this vicinity. Near by are the remains of one of the largest reservoirs in Palestine, measuring 314 feet in length by 217 feet in width. The walls were built of massive stones, and the southern wall is still entire. The bottom of this reservoir is now a grass-plot, hav- ing in it two living springs of good water. "Whether they are natural springs, or whether they are fed by a buried aqueduct, has not yet been discovered. m:^hm^^?^^ -KT BETHLEHEM. BrETH-PLA(,"E OF DAVID, AND OF JESUS 0HKI8T. Bethlehem is south of Jerusalem, about 4 milea distant, but by the route through Joppa gate and the valley of E-ephaim the distance is greater. The road from Jerusalem to Bethlehem is through a wild, uncultivated tract, but beautiful and full of interest. On each side are well-known hills and monuments. On the plain near Bethlehem is the tomb of Kachel, in a solitary spot, without palm, cypress, or any tree to spread its shade. Bethlehem is situated on the brow of a high hill, and commands an extensive view of the surrounding country. In the time of Christ the hills around it were terraced and clothed with vines, iig and almond trees, and the valleys bore rich crops of grain. This city is rendered memorable and holy as the birth-place of David, and of Jesus Christ. Over that spot the guiding star hovered ; there the eastern sages worshipped the infant Redeemer ; and there, where David watched his flocks and praised God, were heard the songs of an angelic host at the Saviom^'s birth. The modern town is on a hill facing the east. The village is triangular, and walled in, having one prin- cipal street. The roofs of the houses are flat, and upon the house-tops are dovecotes constructed of a series of earthen pots. The sides of the hill, and the slopes without the town, abound in figs, almonds olives, and aromatic plants. w^^^^^ss^^^ 333 Tlie plain to the eastward is that on which tra- dition says the angels appeared to the she})herds, and is called the Shepherds' Field. As the plains were cultivated, it is probable that the shepherds would have been found on the hill, where they now may bo found with their flocks. A chm-ch, containing the monuments of the three shepherds, is mentioned by Arculf us as standing in the midst of the fields and terraced gardens. Jerome lived here in a cell, which is now pointed out, where he wrote his Commentaries, and compiled the Latin Yulgate — the best ancient version of the Scriptures. The present population is about 3,000, nearly all Christians, who manufacture and supply pilgrims with crucifixes, beads, and models of holy places. A little beyond the northern extremity of the town is the magnificent Church of the Nativity, said to have been built by the Emperor Justinian. The roof of this church is supported by numerous Corinthian columns. The lofty roof of the nave is formed of cedar-wood of most admirable finish, and is still in good preservation. Between the columns lamps are hung, and a chandelier is also suspended from the roof. Two spiral staircases, of 15 steps each, lead down to the grotto of the Nativity, which is some twenty feet below the level of the church. This crypt, which is 39 feet long, 11 feet wide, and 9 feet high, is hewn out of the rock, and the sides and floor are lined with various kinds of marble. A rich altar, where lamps continually burn, stands over the place where the Saviour is said to have been born ; the spot being marked by a silver star inlaid with gold, and ^^^r^^^jyj^ Hi'; 'm\ ^ ■f^ 335 studded with gems, bearing the inscription — Sic de Virgine Maria Jesus Christus est. In a small recess in one side of the crypt, a little below the level of the floor, is a block of white marble, hollowed out in the form of a manger. The Prophet Micah thus foretold the birth of Christ — "But thou Bethlehem Ephratah, though thou be Httle* among the thousands of Judah, yet out of thee shall he come forth imto me that is to be Euler in Israel; whose goings forth have heen from of old, from everlasting." SIDON, NOW SAIDA. Sidon is on the coast 20 miles n. of Tyre and 145 miles N. of Jerusalem. This is another of the first settlements of the human family, as it was founded by Zidon, the oldest son of Canaan. In the time of Homer the Zidonians were eminent for their trade and commerce, their wealth and prosperity, and their skill in na\agation, astronomy, and the manufactures of glass and metals. Upon the division of Canaan among the tribes by Joshua, Great Zidon fell to the lot of Asher; but that tribe never succeeded in gaining possession of it. The Zidonians continued long under their own govern- ment and kings, though sometimes tributary to the kings of Tyi-e. But they were at length successively subdued by the Babylonians, the Egj^tians, and the Seleucidse. Sidon was the station of the navy of An- * In point of numbers compared with the other cities in Judea. ^hnr . tiochns on the eve of a battle witli the Khodian fleet. At the close of the war with Antiochiis it passed into the hands of the Homans ; who deprived the inhabit- ants of their freedom. Jesus thus alludes to Tjre and Sidon, when preaching to the Jews : " Woe unto thee, Chorazin ! woe unto thee, Bethsaida ! for if the mighty works which have been done in you,^had been done in Tyre and Sidon, they would have repented long ago in sackcloth and ashes. But I say unto you, It shall be more tolerable for Tyre and Sidon at the day of judgment than for you" (Matt, xi, 21, 22). Saida is situated on a peninsula, running from n. E. to s. w. On the high ground stands the citadel ; an old square tower. A wall protects the city on the land side, running across the peninsula from shore to shore. The ancient harbor was formed by a long, low ledge of rocks lying parallel to the shore, and affording space enough to accommodate quite a fleet of small vessels ; but the chief, Fakr-ed-Din, to pro- tect himself against the Turks, caused the harbor to be partially filled up, since which time vessels have to lie outside to the n. of the ledge. On a rock here is an old castle, which is connected with the shore by a stone causeway. The streets of Saida are narrow and crooked, but the houses are built of stone, and many of them are of good size, and well built. A curious feature of the city is that some of the houses are built on the wall, and constitute a part of it. Within the city are six khans for the use of travelers and merchants. The environs of Saida are watered by a stream fi'om Leb- ; e R Of THE \ I UNIVERSITY *£lUPOKNJi^ -^-%„ anon, and are famous for tlieir beautiful gardens of fruit-trees of every kind. The present population is about 5000. The most notable ruins here are those of an im- mense theatre. Tills theatre was one of the largest in Asia Minor — capable of containing 15,000 spec- tators. The lower half of it was excavated in the solid rock, and the seats were of white marble, beau- tifully wrought ; many of them remain, and ai^ in a good state of preservation. There are also ruins of buildings in and around the town, and of a wall that extended into the sea. The place of sepulture of the ancient Sidonians was on the adjacent mountain ; which is honey-combed with cells cut in the rock, and connecting with one another by arched doors. These cells are all rectangular, from 10 to 15 feet square, and contain three niches, one in each wall ; the niche opposite the door usually exhibits sculptures in white marble surmounting a sarcophagus. Many of these cells have their walls covered with Phoenician inscriptions in bright colors. These cells are very similar to the Egyptian Catacombs, especially those of Sakara. In one of these sepulchral caves there was discovered in 1855 a singular Phoenician anti- quity. It is a sarcophagus of black cyanite, with a lid carved in human form ; bandaged like a mummy, the face being bare. On the lid and on the head are inscriptions in which the king of Sidon is mentioned. It evidently belongs to the 11th century b. c. Thia relic is now in the Louvre, Paris. The Maronites have a small chapel in a garden at the gates of the town; and the tradition rung that ^m W'TU/TTr ^P^^ :^^ ■u «,Tv^ n^r" pS^"-*-^^ ' 'yr^L^^'^ ^r- -^ 'i- 340 here stood the house in which Mary, the sister of Lazarus, died. JEEICHO, THE VALLEY OF MUKDER. Jericho was a city of great antiquity and considerable importance — 13 miles e, n. e. of Jerusalem, and 7 miles from the Jordan. It was situated at the moutli of "Wady Kelt, and where the road from Jerusalem comes into the plain. The Jericho destroyed by Joshua was nearer to the fountain of Elisha ; the present A in Sultan. On the west and north of Jericho rise high limestone hills; one of which, the dreary Quarantina, rises 1,500 feet above the plain. The walls of Jericho were so wide that houses were built on them. The entrance to the city was through several gates, which were closed at dark, the same as is the practice in the East at the present day. Jericho is first mentioned as the city to which the spies were sent by Joshua ; they lodged in the house of Kahab, upon the wall, and departed after promising to save her and all that were found in her house from destruction. In the annihilation that ensued, this promise was religiously kept. TJiis v.-as the first city taken by the Israelites west of the Jordan. Its walls are said to have snpernaturally fallen down before the Jews, after being compassed about seven days ; it was then burnt with fire : after- wards it was rebuilt, and gradually rose into importance again. Over against Jericho, beyond the Jordan, "Elijah went up by a whirlwind into heaven." In its plaiiiii THE VALLEY OF MTJBDEIi, K'EAB. IEiUGB.O. Zedekiah was overtaken and captured by the Chal deans. In the return under Zerubbabel, the childreu of Jericho, 345 in number, were included. Jericho was fortified by Bacchides, and afterwards adorned with palaces, castles, and theatres by Herod the Great. He also founded a new town higher up the plain, and called it Phasaelis. Christ visited Jericho, and between Jerusalem and Jericho was laid the scene of the parable of the good Samaritan. All that is left to represent ancient Jericho is the village of Riha, containing about 60 huts and an old square tower, occupied by a small garrison. The houses are built of stones from the ancient ruins, and are merely four walls with a flat roof. Each house has a garden around it enclosed by a hedge of the thorny boughs of the Nubk, a species of thorn-tree. A strong heds'e of the same kind surrounds the whole village. The plain on which the village stands is rich and capable of easy tillage, with a climate to produce anything ; but it now lies neglected, and the palm-trees, balsam, and honey for which it was famous, have long since disappeared. The inhabitants now, as in the earliest time, are noted for their lewdness. In consequence of this the Arabs, when approaching the place, fi-equently pro- vide themselves with a written paper or charm, as a protection against the wiles of its women. The ruins about here are quite extensive, but so dilapidated that none of them can be recognized as belonging to any kno^vn structure. The most singular relic is a block of sienite red granite, the frag- ment of a large circular stone laying partly buried n % ii 344 in the earth. The diameter of this stone, when whole, could not have been less than 8 or 10 feet. Its cir- cular edge is full of small nnind holes. Xear by are the remains of a circular foundation, on which it once ])robably lay. This stone has every appearance of l)eing Egyptian sienite. About two miles from Jericho is the fountain Ain Sultan. This fountain bursts forth at the east side of a group of mounds. It appears to have been once surrounded by a ]-eservoir of hewn stones, but this is now mostly broken away and gone. These mounds are covered with heaj)s of unhewn stone. TJie route from Jericho to Jerusalem ascends through narrow rocky passes and deep ravines, and is a difficult and dangerous one, robberies being more frequent in it now than in the time of Christ ; and the dusky robbers who lie in wait here for travelers are believed to be the veritable descendants of the ancient inhabitants of this district. A short distance up this road, is a deep dell called the Valley of Murder ; the traditional scene of the event related in the parable of the good Samaritan. JSTear this are found some massive ruins, in which is a deep arched vault or chamber, the entrance to which is nearly closed by debris. CHAPTER X. OTHER EENOWNED CITIES, AND PLACES IN THE EAST. Shushan, now Susa — City of Queen Esther, Morde- ca% and Haraan — Shiloh — Rahhah — Sardis — Tarsus — Tiberias — Cesarea — Sources of the Jor- dan — Capernaum — Antioch — Ephesus — Gadara — Lydda — Nazareth — Athleet — Pergamos — Ge- rash — The Hauran, Land of Mystery. SHUSHAN. This ancient and royal city was 800 miles e. of Jerusalem and 120 n. of the Persian Gulf, in what 18 world. It wa8 situated net ween the rivers Eulseus and Shapur ; where <^a&t mounds of ruins have been found. Shushan was ongraally the capital of the country called Elam (first mentioned in Gen. xiv). The Hrst distinct mention of the city is in Dan. viii. 2. In the inscriptions of Asshiir-bani-pal, the son and successor of Esarhaddon — he states that he took the place, and exhibits a ground plan of the city upon his scuiptures. It was next in the possession of the Baljylonians After the conquest of Babylon by Cyrua it was transferred to the Persian dominions ; this transfer was probably the work of Darius Hy stas- pes. Shortly afterwards the Achsemenian* princes made it the capital of their whole empire, and the chief place of their residence. ShuRhan accordingly became the capital of Persia. The city retained its pre-eminence from this time antil the period of the Macedonian conquest. When taken by Alexander he found there sixty millions of dc liars and all the regalia of the great king. Alexander's preference for Babylon caused the neg- iect of Susa by his successors, until it at length fell into the hands of Antigonus, b. c. 315. The town, but not the citadel, was taken by Milo in his rebellion against Antiochus the Great, b. o. 221. At the Ara- bian conquest of Persia, a. d. 640, it was bravely de- fended by Hormuzan. This city was the scene of tlie remarkable events * Median. ^ r¥; tj narrated in the Book of Esther; here Haman con- spired against Mordecai and his people, the Jews, and procured an edict for tlieir extermination, but was defeated by Mordecai and Queen Esther. Dan- iel had the vision of the ram and he-goat at Shushan the palace. Nehemiah was at Shushan when he ob- tained from Artaxerxes permission to return into Judea and repair the walls of Jerusalem. The extent and character of the ruins found here indicate the great size and splendor of the city. They cover an area of over 7 miles in circumfer- ence, and consist principally of four great artificial mounds or platforms. Of these the western, although the smallest in extent, is much the highest ; being 119 feet above the level of the river Shapur. It was con- structed of sunburnt bricks, earth, and gravel. In the centre of the top of this mound is a deep circular depression, doubtless a large court, surrounded by elevated piles of buildings, the fall of which has given the present configuration to the surface. This mound appears to have been the citadel or fortress. To the west of the citadel is the great central platform, covering upwards of 60 acres, 70 feet high, and very steep. The heavy rains of winter have worn deep ravines down the sides of this mound in many places ; thus disclosing much of the work of its ancient builders. The northern platform is a square mass, about 1,000 feet each way, and from 50 to 60 feet high. East of the others is another very extensive platform, but lower than the rest. Beyond these a number of smaller mounds are found, ex- tending nearly to the Dizf ul river. The most important discoveries made here wore in the western mound. This was the platform on which the king's palace stood. Here were discovered the bases of several of the columns, and the position of the whole of the seventy-two columns which supported the edifice. On the bases of four of these were foimd inscriptions, according to which this palace was built by Darius Hystaspes, and repaired by Artaxerxes Longimanus. It consisted of a central hall, about 200 feet square, and three great porches on the exterior of this, and separated from it by walls 18 feet thick. These were doubtless the great audience halls of the palace. The great central hall was probably used for all great ceremonies, such as the coronation of the kings, re- turning thanks, and making offerings to the gods for victories. The "king's gate," where Mordecai sat, was doubtless a hall measuring about 100 feet square, with its roof supported by four pillars, and standing 150 feet from the northern front of the portico. The inner court, where Queen Esther appeared to implore the king's favor, was probably the space between the " king's gate " and the northern terrace wall. The "royal house and the house ot the women," it is supposed, were situated behind this great hall, and were connected with it by a covered bridge over the ravine. As the hight of this splendid palace was 120 feet, and stood on a platform over 60 feet high, surrounded by subordinate palace buildings adorned with trees and shrubs, the whole reflected in the river at its base, the effect must have been truly grand and imposing. Large blocks of marble covered with hieroglyjiliicg are still found by Arabs when digging for liiddcn treasure ; and at the foot of one of the mounds stands the tomb of Daniel, erected on the spot where the relics of that prophet are believed to rest. The site of this once beautiful capital is now deso- late, its only inhabitants being lions, wolves, lynxes, and jackals. m ^1 SniLOH. This was a famous city of Ephraim; about 18 miles north by east of Jerusalem, and 10 south of Shechem. The Ark of the Covenant remained here from B. c. 1444 to 1116 b, c. In honor of the presence of the Ark, there was a feast of the Lord in Shiloh yearly, in one of which the daughters of Shiloh were seized by a remnant of the Benjamites. The ruins found here consist of fragments of columns, and large stones of various shapes. An immense oak, evidently of great age, stands among the ruins. Just beyond the precincts of Shiloh stands a dilapidatea edifice, called by the natives the mosk of Seilun. At a short distance from the ruins is an ancient fountain, which first flows into a pool, and thence into a large stone reservoir — from which flocks and herds are watered — presenting a scene the same as might have been witnessed here 2000 years ago. KABBAH. This was a very strong place east of the Jordan, g^4^fe:^^i 1 a n A ^ /% Of r^/ 353 and as far back as the fourth century it was esteemed one of the most remarkable cities in Coele — Syria. When first mentioned this was the chief city of the Ammonites, and was said to contain the bed, or sar- cophagus, of the giant Og. The site of Rabbah is 35 miles e. n. e. of Jerusa- lem, and 23 miles e. of the Jordan. It was situated near the southern source of the Jabbok, on the road between Heshbon and Bostra, and was the last place at which a stock of water could be obtained for the journey across the desert. Its position was such as to render it an important garrison station for repelHng the incursions of the wild tribes of the desert. At the commencement of David's first campaign against the Ammonites, a part of the army under Abishai was sent as far as Eabbah to keep the Am- monites in check, but the main force under Joab re- mained at Medeba. After the defeat of the Syrians at Helam the Am- monite war was resumed, and this time Kabbah was the main point of attack. Joab took the command, and laid siege to the city. The siege lasted nearly two years, as the inhabitants made a determined resist- ance, which was characterized by frequent fierce sal- lies. After Joab had taken the lower town, he sent for David, as he desired that Tie should have the honor of taking the citadel or stronghold of the place. David shortly after arrived, when the citadel was ta ken, and its inmates, with great booty, including the idol of Moloch, fell into his hands. It was during the time of this siege by Joab that Criah, by order of David, was placed in the fore- front of the battle, where he was slain (Sam. II, xi. 15, 16,17). In the time of Amos, two and a half centuries la- ter, it again had a wall and palaces, and was still the sanctuary of Moloch. At this period it is frequently mentioned in such terms as imply that it was of equal importance with Jerusalem. From Ptolemy Phila- delphus (b.c. 285) it received the name of Philadel- phia, but afterwards resumed its ancient name. b.c. 30 it was taken from the Arabs by Herod the Great. "When the Moslems conquered Syria they found this city in ruins ; ruins remarkable for their extent and desolation. The principal ruins are those of a thea- tre and a fortress. The theatre was very large, and its walls are quite well preserved. The ruins of the for- tress show that it was built of large square stones, put together without cement. The remains of private houses are also quite extensive. w SAEDIS is about 100 miles e. of Smyrna, and was formerly the capital of Croesus, king of Lydia, proverbial for the immensity of his wealth. Sardis, now Sart, is situated at the foot of Mount Tmolus. The route of Xerxes to Greece lay by Sar- dis. From its convenient position, and the fertile re- gion surrounding this city, it was a commercial mart of considerable importance in the very earliest times. It was also a slave mart. The art of dyeing wool is said to have been in- iX^ M 855 vented here, and it was the entrepot of the dyed woolen manufactures. This was also the place where the metal electrum was procured, and here the Spartans sent, in the sixth century b, c, to pur- chase gold for gilding the face of the Apollo at Amyclte. This gold was probably furnished from the auriferous sand of the Pactolus, a brook which ran through the forum by the side of the great tem- ple of Cybele. This city changed hands several times during the contests after the death of Alexander. It was taken and sacked by the army of Antiochus the Great in 214 b.c. In the time of the Emperor Ti- berius, Sardis was desolated by an earthquake, and a pestilence followed. It was taken and nearly de- stroyed by Tamerlane, a.d. 1400. It is now a small village, but contains a large khan for the accommodation of travelers, it being on the road for the caravans coming out of Persia to Smyrna with silk. The ruins of the ancient city are to the southward of the town, chief among which are those of the massive temple of Cybele, a theatre and a stadium. Two columns of the temple are still standing, and are 6 feet 4^ inches in diameter, at about 35 feet below the capital. One stone in their architrave was cal- culated to weigh 25 tons. The present soil is more than 25 feet above the pavement. The ruins of the theatre and stadium are on the north side of the Acro- polis, overlooking the valley of the ITermus. The diameter of the theatre was 400 feet, and that of the stadium 1,000. The hight on which the citadel waa built is badly shattered by an earthquake. The ^^^^^g^^^:^ 356 rums and the countless sepulchral mounds in the vi- cinity indicate what Sardis was before earthquakes and the sword had laid it waste. The Turks, in their hatred of all images, have sawn to pieces and burnt into lime nearly all of the beautiful sculptures which adorned the Temple and other public buildings, of which there were thousands of figures of men and animals in the best style of Greek art. TARSUS is 385 miles from Jerusalem via Joppa and the Mediterranean. It is situated in a fertile plain, on the banks of the river Cydnus, 12 miles from its mouth. This city was at one time the metropolis of Cilicia, and a place of considerable importance. It was distinguished for the culture of Greek literature and philosophy. In the number of its schools and learned men it rivaled Athens and Alexandria. It was also illustrious as the birth-place of the Apostle Paul (Saul). It is now called Tarsous, and though much decayed and full of ruins, it still contains a population of 7,000 inhabitants in the summer, and 30,000 in the winter, mostly Turks. The excessive heat of summer drives a large part of the people to the highlands of the interior. As the ancient city contained no public edifices of any considerable size, none of the many ruins can be identified. 1 was a city of Galilee, rebuilt by Herod Antipas, and named by liim in honor of the Emperor Tiberias. It is 68 miles n. by e. of Jerusalem, and is situated on the western shore of Lake Gennesareth, not far from where the Jordan issues from the lake. On the shore, about a mile south of the town, are the cele- brated warm baths which the Eoman naturalist record • ed among the greatest known curiosities in the world. Tiberias was the capital of Galilee from the Roman conquest until the reign of Herod Agrippa II. Many of the inhabitants were Greeks and Romans, and foreign customs prevailed to such an extent as to give offence to the stricter Jews. Herod Antipas built here a palace, and established a race-course. In the Jewish war, which ended in the destruction of Jeru- salem, Tiberias bore a conspicuous part, especially during the command of Josephus, in Galilee, who for- tified this city. At that time there was here an im- mense Z&w'i^ proseucha — a house of prayer, in which he convened a public meeting of the people. This city and Tarichsea still belonged to Agrippa, and Yespasian marched against them to subdue \\\qv[\ again to his allegiance. On his approach to the city, the principal inhabitants went out and made their submission to him, and the Roman army occupied the town. They afterwards erected a fortified camp at Emmaus, which continued to be the headquarters during the siege of Tarichgea. That city was at length taken by troops under the command of Ti- tus ; great numbers of the inhabitants having escape<3 1 \h w by water in boats, Yespasian had boats built, pursued aud overtook them, when a battle was fought, in which the Jews were totally overthrown. In thia battle, and in the capture of the city, the slain amounted to 7,700, of whom 1,200, being too old or too young to labor or bear arms, were put to death in cold blood in the stadium of Tiberias. Celebrated schools of Jewish learning flourished here through a succession of several centuries, and the Mishna was compiled here by the great Rabbi, Judah Hakkodesh (a.d. 190). During the reign of Constantine this city passed into the possession of the Christians ; and during the Crusades it was lost and won repeatedly by the different combatants. Since that time it has been possessed successively by Persians, Arabs, and Turks, and is now under the rule of the latter. During its occupation by the Crusaders they erected a church ; in which the Arabs have since housed their cattle. The modern to^vn, Ttibariyeh, stands on a part of the site of the ancient city ; and was half destroyed by an earthquake in 1837. It has now a population of only 2,500 inhabitants, one-fourth of whom are Jews, and the rest Mohammedans and Christians. The inhabitants now, as of old, draw a considerable portion of their subsistence from the lake, fish being quite plenty in it. The walls of the town are little better than heaps of ruins, the castle is much shattered, and tiie whole place has an aspect of extreme wretchedness. South of the town are numerous ruins of a still more ancient city, probably Chinneroth, extending for a mile and a Vc. Or '' sM half nearly to the hot springs. The waters of these springs are salt, and too hot for immediate use, but thej are still much resorted to by invalids. CESAKEA. BTKATO'S TOWEE. Cesarea was situated on the coast, 28 miles north of Joppa, and QG fi-om Jerusalem via Joppa. In Strabo's time there was on this part of the coast merely a town, called " Strato's tower," with a landing-place. Afterwards Herod the Great built a city here, on which the utmost care and expense were lavished ; a vast breakwater protected its harbor. Here the Herodian kings resided, also Festus Felix, and other Roman Procurators of Judea. Here were the headquarters of the military forces of the pro- ^^nce. The population consisted chiefly of Jews, Greeks, and Romans. Constant feuds took place be- tween the Jews and Greeks. At the Jewish S}Tia- gogue the Old Testament was read in Greek. At Cesarea, Yespasian was declared Emperor of Rome. This city was a place of considerable impor- tance even as late as the time of the Crusades ; but it is now utterly desolate, and its ruins have long been a quarry fi'om which materials for building other towns have been drawn. SOURCES OF THE JORDAN". PAKEAS, NOW BANIAS — SOIIRCES OF THE EIVEK JORDAN. Paneas is 120 miles n. n. e. of Jerusalem, at the base of Mount Hermon. m M\gl 1 "km I The annals of this city run back from Herod's time into the age of heathenism. It was the Panium of Josephus, and the Paneas of the Greeks and E/imans, and the inscriptions are not yet obliterated which show that the god Pan had a sanctuary there. Titus exhibited gladiatorial shows in this city, in which he made the captive Jews fight and kill each other. The modern village is called Banias, the Arabic form of Paneas. It is small and poor, containing only 150 houses. Just north of the village is a well- built stone bridge. The ruins of the ancient city are extensive, and consist of heaps of stone and architectural fragments. The vast castle above the site of the city is still the most remarkable fortress in Palestine. At the base of the mountain, at the n. e. side of the village of Banias, is a spacious cavern, from which issues the eastern source of the Jordan. Niches have been cut in the face of the rocks directly above the cavern, and in other places, apparently to receive statues. When these niches were cut they had each an inscription, but they are now so obliterated that only a part of one can be made out. The second source of the Jordan is at a place called Tell el-Kady, three miles w. n. w. of Banias. Here is a small ele- vation, having a flat space on its top, in which are two springs, one of which is very large. The united wa- ters of these springs form a considerable stream, which unites with that from Banias, 5 miles below. The third source is about 3 miles w. by n. from Hasbeiya. Here is a fountain, the waters of which are confined by a dam, forming a large basin ; just below the dam SOURCE OF THE KIVEK JOUUAN— l:'A>EAs. or THE UNIVERSITY V Of 13 a bridge. At a short distance -west of this fonn tain are the remarkable pits or mines of solid as- phaltiira. The locations of the sources of the Jordan are aa follows — viz,, the main eastern source, at Banias, is in Lat. 33° 17', and 35° 40' east Lon. from Greenwich ; and the western source — Ilasbeiya — is in Lat. 33° 30' and Lon. 35° 41'. Banias is 120 miles n. n. e. of Jerusalem, and Ilasbeiya is 135 CAPER]N"AUM. The site of Capernaum is near the n. w. shore of the Sea of Galilee ; 78 miles n. by e. from Jeru- salem. It was on the frequented route from Damas- cus to the Mediterranean. This was a chief city of Galilee in the time of Christ. It had a synagogue ; also a customs station where dues were collected both by stationary and itinerant officers. Capernaum was the residence of Christ during a considerable part of his ministry, and the scene of many of his wonderful works. It was here he worked the miracle on the Centurion's servant, on Simon's Mnfe's mother, the paralytic, and on the men afflicted with an unclean spirit. The brothers Simon Peter and Andrew belonged at Capernaum. In conse- quence of the unbelief of the people of this and other cities of the plain, the Lord pronounced their doom : " And thou, Capernaum, which art exalted unto heaven, shalt be brought down to hell : for if the ]:, t I W m \/m\ m mi Sf iW mighty works which have been done in thee had been done in Sodom, it would have remained until this day." The ruins said to be those of Capernaum consist of walls and foundations, covering a space of one-half a mile in length by one-fourth of a mile in width. ANTIOCH. DAPHNE THE FAMOUS GEOVE OF APOLLO. ' Antioch is 300 miles n. by w. from Jerusalem, and 30 miles east of the Mediterranean Sea. Antioch was founded 301 b. c, by Seleucus Nicator, who named it after his father, Antiochus. It is situated on the left bank of the Orontes, in the midst of a fertile and beautiful plain, nearly surrounded by high hills. The neighborhood of these hills and the Mediterranean im- I)art a freshness and salubrity to the climate of An- tioch to be found in but few places in Syria. Its commercial advantages also were great ; for the Oron- tes was navigable for small vessels to the sea, thus bringing it in easy communication with the traffic of the Mediterranean ; wliile on the other side it was conveniently situated for a large caravan trade with the countries in the interior, especially Damascus. Although Seleucus founded Antioch, the part built in his time was only what ultimately formed about one-fourth of the city ; the other three parts were successively added — the last by Antiochus Epi> ])lianes, to v\hom some of its chief embellishments were due ; in particular a magnificent street of about four miles in length, with double colonnades, and crossed at right angles by other streets. Subsequent monarchs added public buildings, among which waa a splendid museum built by Antiochus Philopater. The city grew under the Seleucid (Greek) kings, un- til it became a metropolis of great extent and re- markable beauty. In its most flourishing period its population is estimated to have been over 300,000. From the fij'st the Jews formed a considerable portion of the population, and enjoyed equal privileges with the Greeks. At the commencement of the Christian era, Antioch had lost but little of its greatness and refinement ; being then a place of high culture, and renowned for the cultivation of the arts and sciences. It was no less noted, however, for its luxurious living, effemi- nate manners, jocular humor, gross superstition, and licentious idolatry. Kot only did the city itself con- tain unusual incitements to false worship, with their accompanying pollutions, but adjoining the city, and forming a kind of a subui'b, was Daphne, with the famous temple and grove of Apollo. This suburb was deeply bosomed in a dense grove of laurels and cypresses, which was ten miles in circumference, and formed a cool and impenetrable shade. Many streams of the purest water, issuing fi-om the liills, preserved the rich verdure of the earth, and tempera- ture of the air ; the senses were gratified with har- monious sounds, and aromatic odors. This peaceful grove was consecrated to health, luxury, and love. The vigorous youth pursued like Apollo the object of liis desires ; and the blushing maid was warned by the fate of Daphne to shun the folly of unreasonable li^^tr^^r^ .'<^1 ^ ^"—-^ ^ - ' ' — fs 368 coyness. The philosopher and soldier wisely avoided the temptation of this sensual jiaradise, where plea- sure, assuming the character of religion, imperceptiblj' dissolved the firmness of manly virtue. Notwithstanding the city was so corruj)t and de- structive to public decency, it not only enjoyed a large stated revenue from public pleasures, but was con- tinually receiving fresh gifts from emperors and nobles, to increase the splendor of its edifices and the attractions of its peculiar suburb. Yet in the face of these corrupting agencies, and the powerful support they were receiving, Christianity found in Antioch one of its firmest strongholds ; and in the course of time completely turned the tide against the long con- tinued and richly endowed idolatry of the place. So that when the Emperor Julian went, on the occasion of the animal festival, after great preparations and apparent enthusiasm, to prove his devotions to the Daphnian Apollo, no offering was presented along with his, except a single goose, which was provided at the expense of a priest, who was the pale and solitary inhabitant of the decayed temple. Antioch, the Queen of the East, from the beauty of its situation and the splendor of its buildings, might well deserve the dedication to Apollo which it ob- tained from Seleucus. But to the Christian it has a higher interest, as being the greatest Archiepiscopal see, filled by St. Peter himself ; and the place where the disciples of Christ were first emboldened to adopt the name of the Divine Master. From its own im- portance as the finest and largest city in that part of Asia Minor, also from its commanding position, it iV ^jM 1^ AA J ¥fn can readily be understood how the first heralds of the Gospel should have sought to carry the tidings of salvation, and lay there the foundation of a Christian church. The efforts of the Apostles were crowned with such success, that this city became distinguished for the variety of its gifts, the liberality of its spirit, and its forwardness in the cause of Christianity. Ignatius, who suifered martyi'dom under Trajan at Eome, was bishop of Antioch forty years ; Chrysos- tom, the eloquent preacher, was born here. Antioch has suffered greatly by earthquakes, and has had its share in all the vicissitudes that passed over the district in which it is situated : conquered by the Saracens, retaken by the Greeks, again in the hands of the Moslems ; during the wars of the Crusaders the scene of terrible battles, sieges, and brilliant exploits ; again taken from the Moslems, and finally retaken by them. In 1822 Antioch contained a population of 20,000, but in that year an earthquake destroyed one- fourth of its inhabitants. It is now an Arab village with a population of about 6,000, and occupies only about one-fourth of the area inclosed within the ancient wall ; the houses have sloping roofs, are covered Avith tiles, and are very slightly built, — the heavy snows that often fall in this part of the coun- try, and the frequency of earthquakes, have taught the inhabitants to adopt this style of building. The Orontes is here headed back for the purpose of turn- ing an enormous wheel to raise water, which is con- ducted by troughs to the farthest extremity of the town ; which, dripping in its passage over the sa I ■I W 'm %) ';^)' m 'ml mi] m streets, renders many of them impassable except under the cover of an umbrella. The few Chi-istians remaining in Antioch have no church ; and the only external mark that has survived its ancient Christianity is the name borne by its prin- cipal gate — St. Paul. Many broken and scattered remains of its greatness are still to be seen among the ruins; and on the s. w. side of" the town there is a steep mountain ridge, upon which a considerable portion of the old Roman wall is still standing, of great hiffht and thickness. At short intervals are hio-b towers, containing a staircase and two or three chambers ; probably guard-rooms. There were 400 of these towers. The wall runs in a direct line up the steepest part of the mountain to its top. The in- tervals between the towers were formed into stairs, by which the soldiers marched to and from their stations and the citadel above. The wall runs along two dis- tinct hill-tops, separated from each other by a deoi) ravine, across which it was continued upon an arch for the water to pass, called the " L-on Port." But time and repeated earthquakes have nearly demolish- ed this part of it. After heavy rains, antique marble pavements are vdsible in many parts of the town, and gems, corne- lians, and rings are fi-equently found. During the present year — 1S72 — a terrible earth- quake overthrew a pail of the city, and destroyed several hundred of the people. 'mi- m a ai' I m EPHESUS. THE EENOAVNED TEMPLE OF DIANA. The site of this ancient city is about 40 miles 8. n of Smyrna, and 600 n. w. of Jerusalem. It was situated near the mouth of the river Cayster, and stood partly on the level ground, and partly on the hills Mt. Prion and Coressus. Its harbor at the mouth of the Cayster was admirably constructed, and was at one time capable of accommodating a large fleet of the shipping of the day. In the Roman times two great roads led eastward from Ephesus; one through the passes of Tmolus to Sardis and Galatia, and the other round the extremity of Pactyas to Magnesia, and up the valley of the Meander to Iconium, from whence the communication was direct to Syrian Antioch and the Euphrates. Corresponding with these roads, there appear to have been, on the E. side of Ephesus, Sardian and Magnesian gates. There were also coast roads leading northward to Smyrna, and southward to Miletus. By the latter tlie Ephesian elders traveled to meet Paul at the latter city. St. Paul's first visit to Ephesus M^as about A. D. 54:, and on his return from the second mission- ary circuit. On his second visit he remained over two years, during which time he labored in the synagogue, schools, and in private houses. Here also the Apostle John spent the latter part of his life. At the head of the harbor stood the great Temple of Diana, the tutelary divinity of the city. In conse- quence of the swampy nature of the ground, immense CI) M f//i 372 substructions were built, on wliicli the temple waa erected. The first temple was burnt — this liaj^pened the night that Alexander the Great was born (u, o, 356). But by the enthusiastic co-operation of all the inhabitants in this part of Asia, another temple was erected, which in many respects surpassed the first. The dimensions of the second temple were 425 feet long by 220 feet broad. It was built of white mar- ble, cedar, and cypress, and was profusely ornamented Mdth gold. It had 127 columns, each 60 feet high. The magnificence of this edifice was proverbial throughout the world, and the devotion to the god- dess Diana was such that criminals were exempted from arrest at the temple, or even within an eighth of a mile of it. Another consequence of the worship of Diana at Ephesus was, that a large manufactory of portable shrines grew up there. These shrines were eagerly purchased by devotees, who set them up in their houses or carried them with them on their jour- neys. The next remarkable structure at Ephesus was its theatre — the largest of its kind ever built. — It was 660 feet in diameter, and could accommodate 50,000 spec- tators. Asia at this time was a proconsular province, but Ephesus was a free city, and had its own assemblies and magistrates. Conspicuous mention is made of the most important municipal ofiicer of Ephesus — the Town Clerk, or heejper of records, who was a person of great responsibility and influence. The ruins of the city are of vast extent, and the outlines of the theatre still remain in the solid rock. A4 l\ 'I ' 6i6 Vosti"-es of the Temple of Diana have been traced only the present year by the Eev. J. T. Wood. Sculptures of great beauty and value have been brought to light, and it is expected that the explora- tions now going on will uncover many valuable rehcs of this ancient city. GAD'A-KA was a strong city 7 miles s. e. of the Sea of Galilee, and 65 n. n. e. of Jerusalem. It was situated near the river Hieromax, on the level sunnnit of a steep limestone hilL The first mention in history of Gadara is its cap- ture by Antiochus the Great, b. c. 218. During the Jewish civil wars it was destroyed— and rebuilt by Tompey b. c. 63, and afterwards made the capital of a district by Gabinins. On the first outbreak of the war with the Jews, Gadara was captured by Ves- pasian, its inhabitants massacred, and the city witli its surrounding villages burnt. The ruins are extensive, and comprise the remains of two theatres, a city gate, part of the wall of the city, a straight main street, with its pavement nearly perfect, and prostrate columns on both sides of the street. But the most curious and interesting ruins here are the ancient tombs. They are very nmnerous in the cliffs around the city, and are cut in the solid rock ; chambers fi'om 10 to 20 feet square, with doors of stone tiirnmg on stone hinges. In the sides of these rooms are recesses in which the bodies were placed. Many of these sepulchi-al chambers have changed their character of tombs of the dead for habi- tations of the living, as the present inhabitants of the place use them for dwellings. M LYDDA is nine miles from Joppa, on the road to Jernsalem. In the time of Josephus, Lydda .was a place of con- siderable size and importance, b. c. 45, this city, with the neighboring places, became the prey of the insatiate Cassius, by whom the inhabitants were sold into slavery to raise the exorbitant taxes imposed ; but Antony soon restored them to their city and liberty. St. George was a native of Lydda, and after '^m his martyrdom his remains were buried there, over /|i| which a church was built and dedicated to his honor, ^he English Crusaders adopted him as the Patron Saint of England, and many fabulous legends are told of his exploits. The modern town is small, but for a Mohammedan place is prosperous. The ruins of the stately Church of St. George pre- sent a remarkable appearance. NAZAEETH. This place is 67 miles north of Jerusalem, 6 miles w. N. w. of Mount Tabor, and nearl}- half way from the Jordan to the Mediterranean. Nazareth is situ- ated on the side of a hill overlooking a fertile and beautiful valley surrounded by hills, with a narrow outlet towards the south. The surrounding hills vary m hight from 100 to 500 feet above the level of the valley. Tbe soil is rich and well cultivated, pro- ducing a great variety of fruit, grain, vegetables, and flowers, which ripen early and in rare pei-fection. From the summit of the hill on which Nazareth stands is a magnificent prospect. Towards the north are seen the many hills of Galilee, and tJie eye vnivershy 'W^^^^^^^^^' 377 reposes on the majestic and snow-crowned ITermon. On the east, the Jordan valley may be traced ; and beyond it the dim hights of ancient Bashan. Tow- ards the south spreads the broad and beautiful plain of Esdrffilon, with the bold outline of Mount Tabor, with parts of Little Ilermon and Gilboa visible on its eastern border, and the hills of Samaria on the south, while Carmel rises on the west of the plain, and dips his feet in the blue waters of the Mediter- ranean. Nazareth derives its celebrity from its connection with the history of Christ. At Nazareth Joseph and Mary lived ; here the angel aimoiniced to the Virgin the Messiah's birth ; to Nazareth the Holy Family returned after their flight into Egypt ; here Jesus lived from infancy to manhood ; here He taught in the synagogue, and was twice rejected by his towns- men, who attempted on the. last occasion to cast him down from " the brow of the hill on which the city was built." The title on the cross designated him as " Jesus of Nazareth." At the Fountain of the Virgin, at the north-eastern extremity of the town, according to tradition, the mother of Jesus received the angel's salutation. A remarkable precipice, nearly j^erpendicular and 50 feet high, near the Maronite church, is said to be the identical one over which his infuriated townsmen attempted to hurl Jesus. The modern Nazareth belongs to the better class of Eastern villages. Most of the houses are well bnilt of stone, and appear neat and comfortable ; but the streets are narrow and crooked, aud after a rain are so full of mud as to be nearly impassable. Its popu- lation is between three and four thousand. A few are Mohammedans, the rest Latin aud Greek. The country around is the best cultivated in Pales- tine ; and in the season of rains is fresh and green everywhere, carpeted with flowers, and shady with orchards and groves. P li ATHLEET. The ruins of this singular ancient city are a short distance south of Mt. Carmel, on the sliore of the Mediterranean. The traveler approaching them from the north first sees a vast column, which seems to spring from the waves, but on a nearer approach it is found to be a part of a mass of magnificent ruins. First of all is found an immense wall, per- fectly similar, in its form and the finish of its stones, to the Coliseum at Kome ; behind it is seen the beau- tiful fretted remains of a monument, a mosk, and the ruins of divers ancient buildings — parts of some of them standing and in a good state of preservation. About half a mile from this the shore rises abruptly, and changes from sand to soft rock. In this rock many curious apartments are found cut. This might have been a primitive town, which was cut in the rock before mankind had learned the art of raising stones from the ground, and erecting their dwellings on its surface ; and is doubtless one of those subter- ranean towns of which the earliest historians speak. Many of these artificial caverns are of great extent, with elevated entrances, approached by broad steps ; and are lighted by openings pierced through the rock, and the entrances and windows open upon streets deeply cut in the bowels of the hill. Several of these streets, deep and wide, can be plainly traced, and the marks of chariot wheels are still visible. In some places canals had been dug to the sea, through which glimpses are obtained of the gulf behind the town. The only inhabitants now are vultures and starlings, multitudes of which start up at the approach of the explorer. Passing through these wonderful labyrinths, an opening through the ancient wall of the city is found ; pass- ing through this, the traveler is equally astonished \P} ^^^m^^^^^^^ at the wonderful relics of the past, and the fierce tribe of Arabs which now inhabit the place. In every direction are seen ruins of public edifices, towers, monuments, and private dwellings ; and among these, in every conceivable kind of shelter, are the families of the wild tribe which make this their citadel and place of abode some living in a room that was once a part of a splendid dwell- ing, some under an immense block of stone, one end of which rests on another, while others have tents, made by stretching skins of the black goat from the base of one column to another. On an elevation at the entrance to the town are the ruins of a Roman temple, several of the columns of which have fallen together in such a way as to form a large cave, which is occupied by the Sheik and his family. Swarthy, ferocious men, women, horses, and black goats may be seen, in groups and singly, in all directions ; the scene is novel and strik- ing. The dwellings of this tribe are mingled and confounded with the ruins of theatres, churches, and ancient dwellings. Women are seen milking she- goats on the steps of a theatre. In another direction a flock of sheep may be seen, jumping one by one through the deep windows of a palace or a church, and Arabs, seated cross-legged, are smoking their pipes under the carved arch of a Roman gateway. At the end of the town, near the edge of the sea, are the ruins of an immense temple, — which the Arabs hold in great reverence. The traveler ap- proaching this spot is met with fierce threats from the men, and floods of abuse from the women and children. This edifice appears to have served in turn as a heathen temple, (Christian church, and JMohammcdan niosk ; but time, which sports "uith the productions of men, is fast changing these ruins to dust ; and the knee of the camel now bends on flags on ^^llich many generations in religion ha\e in turn bent before different gods ; and climbing vines hang in leafy and flowery tufts from the tops of broken arches and columns. PERGAMOS. ITS FOEMEE MAGNIFICENCE AND GEAND AECHITECTU* RAL EEMAINS. Peegamos stood on the river Caicus, and about 64 miles north of Smyrna. This city was the capital of ancient Mysia, and was long the centre of a consider- able empire. It was a city of high antiquity and great magnificence. Six successive kings reigned in it from 283 to 133 b.c. It then fell under the power of the Romans ; a usurper subsequently re-erected its throne, but it was again brought under subjection by the Romans, who destroyed many of its inhabitants by poisoning the public waters. A famous library of 200,000 volumes was collected at Pergamos by its kings, and was afterwards carried away by Cleopatra and added to the library at Alexandria. Parchment was invented and first used at Pei'gamos. It was also remarkable as being the birthplace of Galen the physician, and Apollodorus the mythologist, and as the chief scene of the worship of JEsculapius. The ruins of this ancient city are many and grand ; and the situation indicates the people who selec- ted it. It embraces in its view the plain of Per- gamos, with its chain of mountains, and is lit by the rising sun. There is in the middle of the city a group of ruins of great extent, they appear to be tho 381 remains of a palace. The river was spanned by five bridges, one of which was of splendid masonry, and so wide that it forms a tunnel a furlong in length, upon which a portion of the great palace stood. Many vaults and several mosks and khans occupy the buildings of the ancients. The walls of the Turkish houses, being built of the ancient ruins, are full of relics of marble with ornaments of the richest Grecian art. All the works standing are magnificent. The amphitheater southwest of the castle, though in ruins, is a wonderful building ; a river runs through it, and the arches under ground are beautiful specimens of masonry. The arches above ground were equally fine, but although they now stand tier above tier, all the joints have been chipped as in the Coliseum at Rome, and not a seat remains ; but the stupendous works under ground will defy the efforts of the Turks to remove them. Triumphal arches and houses in ruins are to be seen in the modern town, among which are the huts of the Turks, bearing about the same proportion to them as the nests of the storks to the ruined palaces in which they alone now reign. Many fine relics are found in the Turkish cemeteries ; and one of these cemeteries in the vicinity of the ancient theatre has for ages been supplied with marble embellishments fi'om the ruins of that great structure. Cohimns and ornamented stones are used by the Turks for building material and a great variety of other purposes. Many beautiful marbles and other relics have been carried away for the museums of Europe. The ancient Acropolis crowns a hill, and, including the citadel and a heathen temple, covers an area of over eight acres and commands the city, also a grand and picturesque view of the surrounding country. Burgamo, the modern town, has a population of only 15,000 inhabitants, of whom 13,000 are Turks, 1,500 Greeks, and the rest Armenians and Jews. The only representative of the immense ancient library is a collection of about 50 volumes — and a dirty Italian quack is the chief physician in the city of Galeu and -^sculapius. GERASH. This splendid ancient city was situated on the river Jabbok, about 23 miles east of the Jordan, and 38 miles south-east of Lake Tiberias. It was one of the ten cities of the Roman colony of Decapolis. In the wars of the Jews with the Romans it was stormed, taken, and pillaged by Alexander, chiefly on account of its wealth ; and was afterwards fired and destroyed by the enraged Jews, in revenge for the massacre of a number of their nation at Cesarea. Afterwards it was attacked, nearly demolished, and a large number of its inhabitants slain, by a detachment of the Roman army during the preparation for the siege of Jeru- salem. Sul)sequently it was restored and served as a frontier fortress of the Lower Empire, along the side of the Syrian provinces. But it finally received its death-blow from the Saracens, and sank into pro- found oblivion, and only within a few years past has it again been known to the civilized world. Its site and ruins were first discovered by Dr. Seetzen ; and has since been visited by several eminent travelers ^3fc ^^5- ■ "^ y^^ [^1 ifes The size and magnificence of this ancient city are attested by its ruins, which are nnrivalled even by those of Baalbek and Tadmor. Fallen as the ruins are now, enough is left to prove that the banks of a stream of that oft-derided land were once so enriched and adorned, and that too by a people given up to idolatry, as to challenge in their magnificence, though in ruins, any spot in Europe. The streets of Gergesha were lined with colonnades from end to end, and opened a way to public edifices which yet lost not their distinc- tion, while statelier or fairer columns were doubled or multiplied around them. The ruins are found on both sides of a stream which divided the city nearly in the middle. The walls, where not almost entire, form a distinct lineal mound of hewn stones of a considerable height, and enclose an immense space, almost entirely covered with ruins. The principal street extends nearly from one end of the ruins to the othei*, and was lined on both sides with splendid columns, many of which are now fallen, many fractured and shortened, and not a few are still standing unbroken — some 30 feet high, others 25, and the lowest about 20. On one side of the street, in less than a third of its length 34 columns are yet standing. Behind the columns there are in some places vaulted apartments which appear to have been shops. Cross streets diverging from the long central street, had also their colonnades and were adorned with public edifices or bridges, while the more distant spaces on each side are covered with in- discriminate ruins of the habitations of the lower class of people. The remains of pavement found in many Ji m m m 3 -^-. ./<■ ^Si:.^ k %k0 of the streets would put to shame that in use in the capital of France. One of the bridges was built yery high, so as to render the acclivity less dangerous ; and transverse lines were found cut in the pavement, in places where the grade was steep, to prevent the horses from slipping. Not far from the centre of the ruins is a copious fountain of the clearest water, and near this are the ruins of a large building, with massive walls, consisting of arched chambers similar to Roman baths, and which was doubtless a public bath. Oppo- site to the large bath, in a straight line across the city, is an arched gateway facing the principal street, which leads to "the splendid remains of a magnificent temple, such as few countries have ever shown. The fallen roof now covers the base of this edifice ; three of the walls are still standing, and in the sides of which the niches for images are seen. The front of the temple was adorned with a noble portico, having three rows of grand Corinthian columns 40 feet in height, the capitals of which are beautifully orna- mented with acanthus leaves. The spacious area in which it stood was surrounded in like manner by a double row of columns, the total number of which could not have been less than 200. This temple was built in the form of an oblong square, and is about 140 feet in length by 70 in width. Its front is open to the south-east, and there is here a noble portico of 12 columns disposed in three rows. All of the col- umns of the great portico are still standing, and these, being nearly 6 feet in diameter and 50 feet in height, have an air of great grandeur, and present a happy combination of strength and beauty. Near the great temple stands a theatre which haa 16 rows of benches, with a tier of 6 boxes, between every two of which is a niche, forming a very elegant ornament, and as befitting a place for idols as the walls of a church. But the transformation this theatre has undergone is such, that in 1839 a fine crop of tobacco was raised in the arena, which is about 50 paces in diameter. On an eminence at one end of the city, opposite to the termination of the grand street are another tem- ple and theatre. The hill on which they stood was connected with the princely street by a magnificent semicircle of Ionic columns, 57 of which are still standing. Their height was varied with the rising ground, to give a uniform level to the whole entabla- ture. This immense theatre, larger than that of Bacchus at Athens, and capable of containing 8,000 spectators, was partly cut in the rock and partly built. The proscenium is very perfect, and embellished within by five richly decorated niches, which are con- nected together by a line of columns, of which there is another parallel range within. The remains of a beautiful temple stood near this theatre ; it was ornamented with pilasters surrounded by Corinthian capitals ; without it was surrounded by a peristyle of grand columns of the same order supporting an en- tablature ; and facing the city there was a noble por- tico of two rows of columns, to which a grand fiio-ht of stairs led from below. The view from this spot is still wonderful ; but in the days of Gergesha's glory, it must have been a spectacle of unequalled magnificence. The whole mi P I m^ town, including a vast area and surroundod by an im- mense wall, is embraced in the view. Immediately below is the noble Ionic crescent, from the centre of which the main street extends. Of the lines of col umns on each side, eighty-three are now standing with their entablatures, and portions and pedestals of the remainder are plainly visible. Around them on ev- ery side are. confused heaps of ruins, which have only fallen from the violence of ruthless barbarism. These columns, raising their slender forms among the gen- eral wreck, and stretching in long lines amidst the remains of former magnificence, produce an effect hardly surpassed by anything found in Egypt, Greece, or Italy. A traveler thus describes the gen- eral effect : " The circular colonnade, the avenues of Corinthian pillars forming the grand street, the south- ern gate of entrance, the naumachia, and the tri- umphal arch beyond it, the theatres, temples, aque- ducts, and all the assemblage of noble buildings which presented their vestiges to view, seemed to indicate a city built only for luxury, splendor, and pleasure." It would be vain to attempt a pictm-e of the impres- sions produced by such a sight. THE HAUEAN. Land of Mystery — Its Rijins of Ancient Cities — • Its many Deserted Villages. Hattran is the general name of an extensive plain which begins about thirty miles east of the river Jor- It is sometimes level, sometimes undulating, with oc<jasionally a low round hill. 1 .\\f it'/\ 1^ \\ This district is covered in every direction with the ruins of ancient cities, and deserted towns of a more recent date ; the later being of Roman origin. Most of the remains of ancient cities are mere heaps of ruins and rubbish, while many of the buildings in the Roman towns are nearly as perfect as when left cen- turies ago by their original occupants. Owing to a want of timber, the buildings were almost entirely constructed of stone, mostly black basalt. The doors are thick slabs of stone, fixed into their sockets when the houses were built, and many of the roofs rest on arches. The present inhabitants-Arabs, occupy the same houses and enter by the same doors as did the old Romans. The best of these houses are found at Zarava — modern Ezra. This town is of great extent, and the buildings are in a good state of preservation, even whole streets being still in good repair. At Nedjraun is a mansion of unusual size, being large enough to accommodate half a dozen families. It was doubtless built by a wealthy Roman, perhaps the principal man of the place. The courts of this building are large and nearly square. The front door was very large, and above it is a square window ; it had also a window on each side. The upper rooms are small, very numerous, and now occupied by sev- eral families of Arabs, whose appearance would doubtless astonish the original occupants. The up- per story recedes the width of the hall, leaving a small terrace on which the doors of the several apart- ments open. The wings are also full of rooms ; the ground floor of that to the right is in part occupied by a beautiful stable, seven paces long by nine deep, \ 392 and spanned by an arch. This stable, which ages ago sheltered Roman steeds, is now filled with the horses of the Arabs. This whole mansion is extremely well built of hewn stones, and nearly all the rooms are entire. Most of the large towns in the Hanran ex- hibit traces of architectural magnificence, which ivome so freely lavished on her remotest colonies ; but what is still more striking here is the considera- tion evidenced and pains taken to promote the wel- fare and comfort of her people. There is scarcely a village witliout its stone tank, for holding rain-water, and stone bridge ; structures so solidly built that many of them are still as good as new. A striking peculiarity in the manners and customs of the inhabitants of the Hauran is, that the richest live like the poorest, the only difference being that the former makes a display of his M^ealth on the arrival of strangers, while the hospitality of the latter is unattended with any display. The ancient buildings afford spacious and conve- nient dwellings for a large portion of the modern inhabitants, and those who occupy them may have three and four rooms for each family ; but in newly built villages the whole family, with its furniture, horses, saddles, guns, and yataghans, are all huddled together in one apartment. Here also they keep their wheat and barley in a reservoir (formed from a clay called hawara), which is about five feet deep by two in diameter. The chief articles of furniture are a hand-mill, some copper kettles, and mats. In the richer houses some coarse woollen stuffs used princi- pally for carpets and horse-cloths are met with ; real ■ '^ Of .r.:. VNIYERSITY Of . carpets are seldom seen, except on the arrival of strangers of consequence. Each family has a large, singular shaped earthen jar, which is filled every morning by the females at the birket, or spring, for the day's use. In every house of any considerable size is a room set apart for the nse of strangers, and has in the midst of it a fire-place for boiling coffee : hos- pitality being a characteristic of the people of the Ilauran. A traveler may alight at any house he pleases, a mat will be spread for him, coffee made, and breakfast or dinner set before him. It often happens on entering a village that several persons will present themselves to the traveler, each begging that he will lodge at his house, and the same care is taken of the horse or camel as of tlie rider. Wealth is estimated by these people by the num- ber of horses, camels, and oxen a man has. If it is asked if such a one has property, the answer is, " A great deal," he drives six oxen, or he has camels, horses, and oxen, a great many. The Fellahs often cultivate one another's fields in company, but the Turkish and Christian proprietors cultivate their lands by hired laborers, or let their fields for a share of the produce. A laborer who has a pair of oxen usually receives one gharara of corn at planting-time, and at harvest takes one-third of the crop. The mas- ter i^ays the tax, called the miri, to the government, and the laborer pays 10 piasters annually. A con- siderable portion of the agricultural population of the Ilauran consists of day-laborers, and they generally earn their living very hardly. A young man was once met with here who had served seven years for his Mi % i &i (ie^ food and clothing, but at the expin.ticn of that period obtained in marriage the daughter of his master, for whom he would otherwise have had to pay from seven to eight hundred piasters. Daughters are paid for according to the respectability and wealth of the father, from seven to fifteen hundred piasters. The Druses are the most superior race in this country; then* Sheiks and elderly men are always well and often handsomely dressed, while their wo- men are neatness itself ; and they never go out with- out veiling their faces, as the stern morality of this people forbids the slightest indication of boldness or levity. A fearful instance of the uncompromising severity with which the Druses visit female fi-ailty is related by a recent traveler, to whom the deputy of a local governor told the tale as follows : — " I was asleep in bed, when in the middle of the night I heard a knock at the door of my room. ' Who is there?' I said. A voice answered, ' Nas-reddin.' I opened the door and in came a Druse with a sack on his back. ' What brings you here at this untimely hour ? ' I said. ' My sister has had an intrigue, and I have killed her ; there are her horn and other orna- ments in the sack, and I am afraid the governor will do something to me : I want your intercession.' ' Why, there are two horns in the sack,' said I. ' I killed her mother too ; she knew of the intrigue.' ' There is no power but in God Almighty : if your sister was im- pure, was that a reason for killing your mother ? but lie down and sleep.' In the morning I said to liim, ' I suppose you were too uneasy to sleep ? ' ' By Allah ! so unhappy has dishonor made me, thai IXm k^"^; ^- --ffi > n •—I PI :^ H H O w z > D C H W CO > o W H X o w for a year I have not slept soundly till last night." I then went with him to the governor, and said, ' Will you give Kas-reddin the handkerchief of amnesty ? ' The governor said to Nas-reddin, ' Speak without fear ; ' upon which he recounted his story, when the governor said, 'La bas' (no harm), on which he kissed the governor's hand and went away." The whole of this region was once thickly stud- ded over with to^vns and cities, and appears to have been one of the most fertile and densely populated countries on the face of the earth ; but, in conse- quence of bad government, the population is rapidly decreasing, and many once flourishing villages and cities now contain only empty dwellings and deso- late ruins. The present population is estimated to be only about 50,000. The view over the Hauran is at all times most striking, and fi'om many points extremely beautiful. Gebel Sheik, or Hermon, the last mountain of the chain of Anti-Lebanon, is always visible to the n.w. Gebel Ilauran — a range of hills — limits the view to the E., but to the s.e. it is boundless. The soil is naturally excellent ; numerous corn-fields surround every village, while in many places the pasturage is good, and is grazed by the flocks of the Bedouins, who visit the Hauran in swarms every spring. E.N.E. of the Ilauran is a very singular region called the Szaffa ; it is a stony district, much resembling the Ledja, except that the rocks with which it is covered are larger. Its circumference is equal to two or three days' travel, and it is a place of refuge for the Arabs, who fly from the Pasha's troops, or from their ene- m i i> ^^^^Jk^^ mies in the desert. The Szaffa has no springs, the only supply being rain-water collected in cisterns. There is but one entrance into this region, and that is through a narrow pass called Bab-el Szaffa — a cleft between high perpendicular rocks, not more than two yards wide — which none dare to enter as enemies. Many sanguinary encounters between pui-sued and pursuers have taken place at this pass, as is attested by numerous skeletons and human bones met with here. CHAPTER XI. THE KNIGHTS TEMPLARS. Origin of the Order — The Battle-field of Ilattin — Massacre of the Knights — Ancient Kerak, a Stronghold of the Knights. After the conquest of Jerusalem by the Crusa- ders, pilgrims and other travelers from all parts of Europe visited the Holy Land in great numbers ; many of whom, when traveling from one place to another, especially when going fi'om the coast to Jerusalem, were robbed, and subjected to various outrages and indignities by the Mohammedans, who regarded them as interlopers and Christian dogs, and treated them as such whenever an opportunity pre- sented itself. From this state of things arose the necessity of an organization for the protection of pilgrims and others, while traveling in the Holy Land. Hence, in 1118, a society was formed, called -^?=^ "^WW^. the " Poor Soldiers of Jesus," whose duty it was to act as escort and guard for the Christian travelers ; especially those visiting Jerusalem. This humble society soon became so popular, that to belong to it was esteemed an honor ; and its accessions in num- bers and wealth were such as to eventually render it the most powerful and wealthy organization the world had ever seen. KNIGHTS TEMPLAES. The buildings allotted to the " Poor Soldiers of Jesus " were in the Temple enclosure, and some of them on the site of Solomon's Temple, from which circumstance they received the name. Knights Tem- plars. In time this order embraced in its ranks many of the best architects of the day ; and the ruins of castles, fortresses, and fortified towns, built by them, are monuments of the skill and energy of this warlike and mechanical order. CAUSES WHICH LED TO THEIK DESTRUCTION. At this period, Palestine was covered with castlea and fortified towns, which were occupied and com- manded by petty barons, Knights of St. John, and Knights Templars ; but all subject to the king at Jeru- salem. Tet the commanders of these fortresses de- clared war and made peace at their own will and pleasure — not only against the common enemy but against one another ; and what renders this state of anarchy more surprising is, that the Christian occupants of Palestine were nearly surrounded by 402 warlike and watcliful enemies, ready to imprcve the first opportunity for their destruction. Yet at this time, under the leadership of a man of even ordinary capacity, order might have been restored, and the Christian rule perpetuated in the Holy Land. But this opportunity for consolidating their power was soon lost ; for, in 1180, the throne -was usurped by Guy of Lusignan, who had many enemies, and at least one powerful rival. Among the petty rulers at this time were Count Raymond of Tripolis, and Raynald of Chatillon, Lord of Kerak and other castles, and who had associated with him a large number of Knights Templars. Raymond was a bitter enemy and rival of the king, and had even entered into negotiations with Saladin, and received aid from him. Notwithstanding the situation among the Franks* was snch as to invite attack, a truce had been concluded with the Sultan, which might have been followed by a period of repose. But this peace was soon terminated, and that too by the Christians ; for the reckless Eaynald of Kerak, disregarding the compact with the Sultan, fell upon and plundered a large caravan of merchants passing from Damascus to Arabia, imprisoning the women and children, and massacreing many of the men. Enraged at this, Saladin swore a solemn oath to put Raynald to death with his own hands, should he ever get him into his power ; and immediately commenced mak- ing inmieuse preparations for avenging this breach of faith on the part of the Franks ; and in response to his call hosts of the swarthy and fierce warriors of * A general name applied to Europeans by the Turks. m w^ Up IFIlllilfWiflfi'Wn^fTfiffl^ Hf ! ,1 WNIYERSITY V OF . (i ?im^ h ^ I the Crescent were soon assembled at Damascus froni all parts of the empire. BATTLE OF HATTIN — MASSACEK OF THE KCaGHTS TEM- PLARS. Mount Hattin, on the slopes of which the great battle was fought, is sixty-five miles north-by-east from Jerusalem, and twenty-four miles east-south east of Acre ; and is nearly on a line between Tabor and Ilermon. The dire intelligence of the preparations of Sal- adin for war, soon reached the Christian princes, and induced them to cease their strife, and unite at once for mutual defence. They established their rendezvous at the fountain of Sefurieh, fifteen miles south-east of Acre, wliere were soon assembled the most chivalric host which had ever fought aa-ainst the Saracens in the Holy Land. The Hospitalers and Teinplars came with many troops from their castles; Raymond, with his forces from Tiberias and Tripolis ; Raynald, with a train of knights from Kerak and Shobek ; other barons from Sidon, Antioch, and Cesarea, and the king from Jerusalem, with a host of knights and hired troops, altogether making an army of over 50,000 men. The position chosen by the Christians was a good one, and had water and other resources in abundance. They were also inspired by the presence of the Holy Cross, which had been brought from Jerusalem by the Bishops of Ptolemais and Lydda. Thus pre- pared, the army waited the approach of the Saracena for over a month, when suddenly the hosts of Saladin i w. appeared on the west side of the Jordan, swooped around the northern end of Lake Tiberias, and thence, southerly, do^vn its west side to the lieights north of the village of Tiberias ; where they en- camped, in the hope of drawing the Franks from their position. Light detachments had preceded the maia army ; these penetrated to the neighborhood of Nazareth — to Jezreel, and Mount Gilboa, laying waste the land with fire and sword. Upon finding that the Franks did not advance, Saladin sent a detach- ment of light troops and took possession of Tiberias, the residence of Count Raymond, whose wife, with her children, retired to the castle. On the 3d of July, intelligence of the capture of Tiberias reached the Christian camp. The king immediately called a council of war, to decide upon the measures to be pursued. At first a large majority were for march- ing at once for the deliverance of Tiberias ; but Raymond, although of all others personally the most interested, advised to remain where they were, fortify their camp, and act on the defensive ; as experience had taught him that the Fabian policy was the most successful against Saladin. Here, in their fortified position, Math abundance of resources of all kinds, they had every reason to hope for complete success against the attacks of the undisciplined hordes of the Sultan ; but if they marched on Tiberias, they would expose themselves to constant attacks of myriads of Saracenic cavalry, in a region without water, under the burning heat of summer, where, harassed and exhausted, their retreat might be cut off. This advice was imanimously approved by the king, -'^■•, S^^H5l -^. M: RAYNALD, LORD OF KERAK, \ UNIVERSITY S. - or 409 barons, and all, with but one exception — the Grand Master of the Templars ; who, listening only to the dictates of chivalry, went to the tent of the hing, after the council had broken up, and conjured hira not to let such a stain of cowardice rest upon the Christian name, and fame of the Knights, of which the army was so largely composed, but to march at oiice to the attack of the Mohammedan hosts. To this the king at length yielded, and gave the order to arm, and march upon Tiberias.* Upon receiv- ing this unexpected order, the barons repaired to the quarters of the king, to endeavor to dissuade him from this step ; but he would not even give them an audience, and his order to advance was immedi- ately carried out. Sal ad in had great confidence of victory, could he but draw the Franks from their position, and bring on a general engagement ; con- sequently their advance fell in completely with his wishes and plans. He immediately despatched nis light troops to harass the Christian army on its march, and posted his main army along the high ground between Tiberias and Tell Hattin. This was on Friday. In the afternoon the Christian army reached the open ground around el Ltibieh, when immediately a sharp engagement between the light troops of the two armies took place, but with no results of importance, as the King's soldiers were so exhausted by their long march under the scorching Bun, and suffering so much from thirst, that they made no headway against the fierce Saracens. Pre- * But few of the military terms in use now were known at the period in which this battle took place. mmm ^m^ 410 vious to making the advance, the Christians were iilled with confidence in their superior prowess and tactics, consequently the result of the first onset not only astonished them, but filled them with fear and dismay ; and instead of pressing on at once, and attacking the army of Saladin, and at least breaking througli to the lake, where a supply of water miglit be obtained, the king gave orders to encamp on the rocky plain, where there was no water, and thus deferred a general engagement until the next da3\ This was a fatal step, and was said to have been counselled by Raymond, from treachery ; and, from the manner of his escape at the termination of the battle, it would appear as though there was some collusion between him and Saladin. The night was a dreadful one for the Christians : suffering from thirst, and not a drop of water within their reach, and in such fear of a night attack that sleep was out of the question. Added to this, the Saracen scouts succeeded in approaching verj- near their camp and setting fire to the dry shrubs round about it, the heat and smoke of which increased still more their distresses. In this situation the night was passed ; and at early dawn they found themselves closely surrounded by the hosts of Saladin, flusned with confidence, and eager for the conflict — which commenced by their attacking the more exposed parts of the Christian army, which brought on a general engagement ; and wlienever the Franks pressed for- ward in solid masses, or made a well-directed charge, the Saracens gave way at once, but would again return to the conflict ; and, by hovering around and making A U I s ,j; m n f. l^X^i j'f THE '^ VER8/TY or constant charges against vulnerable points, they suc- ceeded in exhausting and demoralizing the Franks so that the foot-soldiers broke their ranks. Some threw down their arms and surrendered ; others fled, and were pursued and cut to pieces ; while the great body retreated in confusion to the summit of Mount Hattin, from which the king attempted to rally them to support the knights in protecting the Holy Cross, but without avail. An attempt was then made to encamp around the Cross ; but the Saracens now pressed upon them, and discharged a shower of arrows, by one of which the bearer of the Cross was slain. In this extremity the king gave orders to re- new the fight ; but it was too late, as they were now so exhausted and disheartened that they were but little better than a confused mob ; and, in this ex- tremity, Raymond and his followers, when ordered to advance, put their horses to full speed over the dead bodies of their fallen comrades, and rushed through the ranks of the enemy, which ojpened to let them pass, and thus escaped, by a shameful flight, in the direction of Tyre. The king then withdrew to the height of Tell Ilattin, with a few knights and other brave followers, where, for a time, they maintained tbeir position against the fearful odds against them, but were at length obliged to yield, when some were dri\en headlong over the steep precipice on the north- ern side of tlie Inll, and others were taken prisoners. Among the latter were the King, Raynald of Chati- llon, Ilonroy of Toron, the Bishop of Lydda, and the Grand Master of the Templars. The latter though his advice to advance might have been ini m PI W! i 1 cioiis, yet by his conduct throughout this bloody con- flict, he added new luutre to the reputation of tho Knig'hts Temj)lars for chivah-ic courage and fortitude. Immediately after the battle, the captive princes were led before Saladin, who received them in the antechamber of his pavilion, and with the respect due to their positions — except Kaynald, on whom his eye fell fiercely, for he remembered him as the bitter enemy of his people, and as the immediate cause of this conflict, in w^hich so many of his best warriors had lost their lives. At the order of Saladin, cool sherbet was presented to the king ; but when the latter passed it to Raynald, Saladin said to him, " Thou givest him drink, not I," in accordance with an Arab custom, that whoever gives drink or food to another, is bound to protect him at all hazards. After the other prisoners had received refreshments, Saladin addressed Raynald, upbraiding him for his cruelty and insolence against the Mohamme- dans and their religion, and for breaking the truce ; and ended by inviting him to embrace Mohamme- danism. Kaynald replied that he had lived, and would die, only in the Christian faith ; upon which, Saladin rose from his seat, drew his scimitar, and at a blow cleft through ilaynald's shoulder; when the attendants rushed upon and despatched him. Sala- din then assured the king and princes that their lives were safe, that the massacre of Kaynald was only the punishment due his atrocities ; but, smart- ing under the remembrance of the many chastise- ments his people had received at the hands of the Knights Templars, and also that on that day scores i! s, WAR HORSES AFTER THE BATTLE. <" Of T' . or of his warriors had been laid low by the strong arms of these same knights, he ordered them to be put to death ; when the captive knights were all beheaded without mercy ; but the king and princes were sent to Damascus. Thus ended this great battle, and dis- aster to the Christian army, and, as a consequence, the Christian sway in the Holy Land. For in pre- paring for this struggle with Saladin, the fortresses throughout the country had been weakened by draw- ing off the principal part of their garrisons, so that they fell an easy prey to the Sultan, and surrendered, one after another, until the third of October, when the Holy City itself capitulated. AmoniT the results of this battle were the loss of the Holy Land to the Christians, and its return to semi-barbarism ; and the almost total annihilation of the Knights Templars — rendering it, in its effects on civilization and its tragic termination, one of the most important and remarkable battles ever fought in this quarter of the globe. m •ff\ m iV/ ANCIENT KEEAK. Kerak is noted as being the stronghold of Raynald of Chatillon ; and is situated in a wild and singular region, bordering on Arabia. It is fifty miles south- east of Jerusalem, and ten east of the south end of the Dead Sea. The principal approach to this place is from the south, np the side of rugged hills, and through deep and narrow defiles. In one place the route leads through a very narrow and deep pass, which could be held by a dozen resolute men against an army. OJi ^^^^^^ Kerak is very strong by nature, as the platform on which it stands is 3,720 feet above the level of tlie sea, and two deep valleys from 1,000 to 1,350 feet deep, with rugged sides, flank it north and south. In the time of the Crusades, Kerak was strongly for- tified, and a strong wall surrounded the whole place. The lower part of this wall appears to be much older than the Crusading or Saracen times ; and the wide bevel is similar to the Phoenecian and Jewish rebate or bevel. The main entrance into the city and for- tress is through a tunnel, probably natural at first, but enlai-ged, and with a well built pointed arch over its entrance, above which an Arabic inscription has been let into the face of the rock. This tunnel is about 240 feet in length, and enters the town near the nortLwest castle. This castle is called " El Melek," from an Arabic inscription of great size cut into its walls ; ascribing the inscription to El Melek. The walls of this castle are massive and flanked with lofty towers. The wall is 27 feet thick in its lower stories ; and the upper stories are studded with long loop-holes, and an open ledge for the garrison to connnunicate along the whole. The loop-holes and chambers are now nearly all converted into rude stores. Above this the wall contracts. There are loop-holes again ; and a platfcnin about seven feet wide runs along near the top. These lofty ledges are the resort and lounge of the men and boys of Kerak. The fortiflcations of Kerak were very strong, and against the warfare of that period impregnable. The most important and extensive of these works ia ,.'\ i 419 the great castle at the southern angle ; this, being tho most exposed point, was strongly and carefully forti- fied. The interior of this castle is one mass of vaults, arches, and galleries, and all of the most massive construction. The most remarkable portion of this castle, and which tells the history of its construc- tion, is a crypt chapel, with an eastern apse ninety feet long. It is reached by descending a circular staircase ; and another staircase leads to the roof. There are four small, narrow windows, high up, but giving so little light, that lamps must have been necessary during the services. A few fragments of columns are built sideways into the walls, and also some remains of inscriptions. Patches of fresco are also to be seen on the walls, ])ut all in a state of decay. In addition to the above, there are long ranges of structures like casemates, barracks, and magazines ; story above story, and solidly vaulted. These were originally four or five stories high ; but the upper portions are now much ruined. There were several gateways on the side of the town with the necessary defenses ; these still remain in a fair state of preser- vation. Under the great crypts are numerous vaulted reservoirs, capable of containing an ample supply of water for a long siege ; and there are also several deep wells sunk in the castle. Between the two great fortifications of Kerak there is a subterranean com- munication, but of which little is known. The most noted ruin of Kerak is a ruined mosk ; which was once a basilica. The roof is gone, but the liars and arches remain. The doorway is pointed, Saracenic, and the upper part of the arch is filled M in with masonry, wliich was once covered with Chris- tian symbols. Another highly interesting relic is a portion of a beautiful tesselated pavement of marble quite per- fect, also some marble bases of ancient columns still in their places at the edge of the pavement. This beautiful pavement, that had doubtless once done service in a splendid temple,' or other grand edifice, was now the floor of a miserable hovel, but only the centre of the pattern had been broken up to make a place for the hearth. Ancient Koman lamps are found here, also ancient gold and silver coin. Altogether the great castle of Kerak is the grandest and most complete monument of military engiueer- ing and energy left by the Crusaders. It was built by a predecessor of Eaynald, about A. D. 1131, and afterwards strengthened, so that in 11S3 it completely baffled the fierce assaults of Saladin. Birth-jplaoe of Pythagoras. — His education.— Tra- vels^ Philosojyhy, and the tragic termination of his career. Tins celebrated philosopher was born in the island of Samos, 600 b.c. His early history is not definitely known, except that his father's name was Mnesar- chus, who is said to have emigrated from Phoenicia. Being a merchant, and of some distinction, he took care that his son should receive such an education as would enlighten his mind, and develop and strengthen his body. He was taught astronomy, geometiy, music, and poetry. Pythagoras first attracted attention m Greece, at the age of 18, by his great strength and skill in the gymnasium, and where he won the prize for wrestling in the Olympic games. Having been sent to Egypt for further instruction, he gained a knowledge of the arts and sciences as taught by the priests. After having been duly ini tiated into the mysteries of the sacerdotal order, he then made himself master of their mythology, and the system of symbolical writing by which they governed themselves, and held their power over the people. I \m it. ,11 i 424 After completing his investigations in Egypt he visited Babylon, Assyria, Persia, and India, every- where gathering knowledge of the opinions of wise men as to the nature of their gods, and on the ques- tion of the immortality of the soul. After several years of travel and study, he returned to his native island, Samos, but the tyranny of Polycrates soon made his life so stormy that he sought peace else- where. lie is credited with being the first who nsed the name philosopher, which he applied to himself. When having been saluted as a sophist, or wise man, he replied that he was not yet wise, but was a friend of wisdom. Being asked by Leon, king of Achaia, in what a philosopher differed from other men, he replied, that at the Olympic games some are attracted by a desire of obtaining crowns and honors, others come to dispose of their different commodities, while another and wiser class come to contemplate what- ever deserves notice in that celebrated assembly. Thus, on the more extensive theatre of the world, while many struggle for the glory of a name, and many strive for the advantages of fortune, a few, and indeed but a few, who are not desirous of money nor ambitious of fame, are sufficiently gratified to be spectators of the wonder, the hurry, and the magnifi- cence of the scene. From Olympia the philosopher went to Elis, in Sparta, and finally, when about 40 years of age, he went to Magna Grecia, where he settled in the port of Crotona. Here he founded a new sect, and his knowledge of astronomy, mathematics, and other higher branches of education, his extensive research and the reputation he had acquired from his travels, and by being crowned at the Olympian games, gave him such a recommendation as drew about him an immense number of pupils, and his eloquence and the boldness with which he attacked the vices and follies of society, astonished and influenced both old and young, and a great reformation took place in Crotona. Pythagoras taught his followers both by precept and example. He went regularly at an early hour to his devotions ; he lived on the plainest and simplest food ; his continual purifications and offerings, his religions deportment, his intellectual achieve- ments, seemed to raise him above the rest of man- kind ; and to keep himself at a still greater distance from his pupils, several years were required to try their various dispositions — if they were talkative they were not allowed to speak in the presence of their master for five years, while those of a taciturn mind were allowed to speak with him after two years. He had certain doctrines which he taught only to his choice followers, and which being known only to those within, were called esoteric, the other doctrines given to i\\o^e without, or the people in general, were called exoteric. When his select pupils had ad- vanced sufilciently to receive the secret instruc-tions of the philosopher, they were instructed in the use of ciphers and hieroglyphic writing, so that his follow- ers might correspond in unknown characters through- out the world in any language ; the secret language being intelligible to all the initiated, whatever their 3^£z^p^fe^^^^s 426 native speech ; by certain signs and words they made themselves known to each other wherever they went. Pythagoras taught his pupils to perform their de- votions in solitary places in the mountains, early in the morning ; and after a rigid self-examination they rejoined their friends and refreshed themselves with light food, for the philosopher forbade his disciples eating flesh, because he believed it to have been pro- duced from the same purified matter from which, at the creation of the world, man was formed. The conversation and amusements of his followers were of the most innocent kind ; both philosophy and politics were discussed, but never with warmth. In the evening, after arranging a course to be pursued the day following, they performed the same religious ceremonies as in the morning. So profoundly respected, and even revered, was he by his pupils, that to dispute his authority was a crime, and to differ with him was a great offense. The most stubborn were brought to admit a position, or concede a point, when it was said the master held that opinion, and, to use the teacher's own words, was to carry conviction. His great influence in and through his school soon spread abroad in the world, so that it was esteemed a high honor to be counted among his pupils, and so renowned was his school, that the rulers and legislators of Greece, Italy, and other neighboring nations boasted of having been members of it. In maiiy instances the highest posi- tions of honor and profit were attained as a direct result of his teachings put into practice by his pupils. The doctrine of metempsychosis — the transmigra- 427 tion of the soul of man into the lower animals, he brought from India, and taught it as being possible and even probable. In his theological system, he declared that the universe was created from a shape- less mass of passive matter, by a being who was the soul of the world, and of his substance the souls of men were a portion. Numbers were considered as an exponent of all things, and harmony, beauty, order, and their oppo- sites, the necessary results of the action of nature. In his doctrine of morality he perceived in the mind propensities common to the brutes, and besides these and the passions of avarice and ambition, he recognized the noble quality of virtue. He believed the most perfect qualifications w^ere to be found in the exercise of the moral and intellectual pleasures. He further believed that no enjoyment could be had where the mind was disturbed by guilt or fears of the future. He distinguished himself by his dis- coveries in Geometry., Astronomy, and Mathematics. It is to him that the world is indebted for the discovery that the three angles of a triangle are together equal to two right angles, and that in any right angled tri- angle, the square formed on the hypothenuse is equal to the sum of the squares formed on the two sides. This is the famous forty-seventh problem of Euclid, which was not demonstrated before his time. He was also the discoverer of many other problems. According to his astronomy, the sun was the centre of the universe, and all the planets moved in an elliptical order around it. This was deemed impossible by the philosophers of that tirae, but subsequent re- searches of astronomers have proved that he was cor- rect, and consequently far in advance of his contem- poraries. Many of the most wealthy and influential citizens having joined the " Brotherhood," it soon became the controlling power in the State ; but from the zenith of their popularity and power the fall was sudden and tragical ; as its extraordinary success rendered its mem- bers so proud that they became objects of jealousy and hatred to the people, which culminated in their being attacked, while holding one of their general meetings ; their building was set on fire and great numbers perished in the flames, and according to one account, Pythagoras himself perished with his pupils, at that time ; but others say he died at Meta- pontum, about 497, B. C. The reaction at Crotona extended to adjoining countries, and many of his followers were killed, and others were driven into exile. View in the Island of Samos. — Birthplace of Pythagoras. or THE VNIVERSITy 431 r! CHAPTER XIII. MYTHOLOGY, AND MYSTERIES OF THE ANCIENT EGYPTIANS. The first form of Initiation ever practised.— The mysterious rites and ceremonies pertaining there- to. — The first ceremony of Initiation^ the test hy fire, water and air.— The second ceremony of Ini- tiation, the Sacrifice.- The final ceremony, the Tri- umphal Procession. The religion of the Ancient Egyptians was a vast and complicated system of mythological ideas, and mysterious rites, and ceremonies.* Astronomy and mathematics were extensively used in its culture, and its creed was broad enough to admit people from every nation under the sun, and accessions were wel- comed without question as to their origin, provided only that they believed in the God of Egypt. Emi- nent men from India, Syria, and other parts of the world, brought their contribution of creeds, ideas, rites, and ceremonies, all of which were given their proper place and consideration in the great whole, being grafted into the religious system of Egypt. * In the preparation of this chapter the following works have been consulted :— " Life and Work at the great Pyramid," by C. Piazzi Smyth. " The Ancient Egyptians," by Sir Gardner Wilkin- son ; also the works of Champollion, Baron Bunsen, and Colonel Howard Vyse. v^^^i 432 As the people progressed towards civilization tliey passed through several phases of culture in the arts and sciences, vrhich may be studied in the remains of those periods, and the religious ideas, and opinions kept pace with their material and intellectual advance- ment, and in the age that was ruled over by the famous nineteenth dynasty of Pharaohs, the nation reached its culmination, and at that time had developed its system of worsliip of deified human beings, now called anthropomorphism. Before this wonderful worship had been perfected, there had been practised the rites of the Sabians, a worship of the heavenly bodies similar to that of the Persians and Chaldeans ; and still more anciently there are evidences of the practice of the dark rites of Fetichism. The mythology of the Egyptians is so full of names of gods and demons, that it would require a large space to describe them, and the data is also imperfect, as the Egyptian priests invented a system of secret writing called hieroglyphic (sacred writing) on pur- pose to conceal their knowledge from all but the i^ii- ated. But within the last half century these hiero-i glyphics have been so far deciphered as to afford us a fair knowledge of their esoteric teachings, rites, and ceremonies. Kneph is the great creator, appearing under the symbol of a man with a ram's head and horns, always seated when in the act of creating. The central myth was that of Osiris and Isis, the sun and moon, and of Hermes, and contains the ideas and notions concerning the three most important deities. !^ ^<</lt 433 Osiris was worshiped under the form of an ox, and was the god of the siin, and the source of life and fertility, and all fruitfulness. He taught man the use of tools in agriculture, and was greatly beloved in return. His envious brother Typhon (the nighty as Osiris was the day)^ conspired to kill and destroy him, and would have succeeded but for Isis who con- tended for Osiris, and gathered the fragments of the slain body. Osiris, after making the people of the Nile valley rich and happy, visited the rest of the world with his blessings, chiefly agriculture, and the arts, music and eloquence. Anubis is the dog-headed divinity, who was wise and good, and assisted Isis in the contention between Osiris and Typhon. The story of this contest is the probable foundation on which that of Moses and the ark of reeds was made. HoEus was a son of Osiris and Isis, and was also a god of the sun, and equal to the Greek Apollo. He is often represented as a child seated on a lotus flow- er, wath his finger on his lip, and from this is called the god of silence. The ox was called Apis, and was always a black one, with a triangular spot on the forehead, and another on his right side, crescent-shaped. He was kept in a stall facing the east, and fed chiefly on milk. On the death of the favored animal another was imme- diately installed in the sacred temple, and saluted as the god, beginning at Nilopolis, and finally ending at Memphis, where sacrifices were made at his shrine. A.n ancient historian (Marcellinus) says, " during this a.na ' live that ter re- festival of the annual installation of the Apis, the crocodiles forgot their ferocity, became gentle, harmed nobody." ISio sacred bull was allowed to longer than twenty -five years, and if alive after '^lfk\ period he was drowned. The Amun of the Egyptians was called Jup '^V I Aiimion by the Romans, and Zeus by the Greel isi^J; and was the highest of all the divinities, and was presented under the symbol of the ram, with the disc of the sun on his head. He was also a god of the sun, :/^j! whose name in Coptic is Ram. \i[%\ Athor is the mother of the material world, the W0: ' Egyptian Yenus, and is usually seen with the dove, which was sacred to her, Phtha was the god of fire and life, as Prometheus was to the Greeks. From him were descended Mendes and Neith, the last of the first order of the gods. To each of these twelve great deities there was one of the twelve signs of the Zodiac assigned. The second order consists of twelve also, the sun, moon, and planets, and also some of the principles of nature. The third, of seven deities. - The starry heavens were divided into two sections, said to be ruled by a god of light and purity, and the other by a demon of darkness and evil. There were six orders of demons, ruling over or influencing, according to the permission of the great gods, all other living things. Every planet, star and object, animate or inanimate, had its own peculiar guardian spirit or tutelary genius, ^U 435 and this was the origin and nse of their sytem of AsTEOLOGY. The Egyptians believed that the soula of men had once been alive on the earth in ani- mals or men, and would return again after a term of years of great duration — ten thousand years or more. The belief of the Eg^-ptians as to the creation of mankind was, that after the several orders of gods and demons were created man was devised, and wo- man was the first made, and that there were many thousands of souls created in the image of Osiris, which were divided into sixty classes. These have procreated their descendants, filling the world, being animated by the breath of the creator. Another myth says that these creations of gods, demons, and man were made in the heavens, and that the habitation of the earth was an after-thought, and that Hermes gave man the soil for a covering, thus forming the body over what had been created in the soul, and man became a living being in a mor- tal body in the earth. Mankind having fallen into sin by breaking the laws of the creator, the great host of diseases fol- lowed him like a swarm of flies, destroying his peace and happiness, and his very life, when Osiris and Isis were sent by the creator to the earth to be born as man and woman, and redeem the fallen race. They appeared in Egypt, the chosen land of the gods above all others. According to this belief, each soul while in the body is attended by a guardian angel, and is given a choice whether to stay in heaven, or visit the earth m^MM. ffl m and live in a body. If the choice is for a life on earth, it traverses the Zodiac until it reaches the sign of the Lion, the gate of corporeal existence. The period of 3,000 years is passed before the soul finds an exit from earth in the sign Aries, where after a probation of three days it enters once more the regions of bliss. These myths were the symbolic language in which the priests hid the real truth, which was carefully kept within the sacred circle of the initiated. The rites and ceremonies were enforced on all citizens without exception, from the king down to the lowest subject, and foreigners were permitted to join on certain conditions. This external religion was the basis of the priestly and kingly authority, but the creed, lielief, and practise of the initiated order of priests, were very different and much more elevated. The use of animals and reptiles as symbols of divine things was probably a relic of some older sj^s- tem of nature worship or fetichism. Various symbols were used for the same duty when considered under different characters, as the creator, preserver, destroy- er, fruitful, and others. Osiris is at one time repi-e- sented as a boy with a hawk's head sitting on a cow ; at another, with a lion's head, and a third, with a bull's head bearing a crescent above the horns. This lion-head is the symbol of the god of the Nile. ]Ie is also clothed in a long garment and holds a staff, and a corn measure on his head. As god of Tartarus he has the Serapis serpent, and as such is the healing demon, the ^sculapius of the Greeks. As god of the Nile he was ruler of the elements, and he was also judge of the dead. Isis was also symbolized under many forms. The famous great sphinx is a statue to Isis, bearing her image, clothed in the national headdress, which has remained in fashion from most ancient times to the present. Among the many symbols of Isis the most distinct are these : 1. A girl seated on a lotus, resting her feet on a bud, holding a whip, her head bearing a tuft of three leaves (or petals), and her body wrapped in the sacred yestments, fitting closely with many folds. 2. An ancient medal bears her image in a bust with many breasts (like the Greek Diana of Ephesus), and around which, like a constel- lation, are symbols of four gods, rulers of the four elements, eagle, of the air, salamander, of the fire, lion, of the earth, and a fish, of the water. 3. As queen of the ocean Isis is represented on a coin as a girl holding the sistrujn, and unfurling a sail ; around her are the stars of heaven, and in the distance the great lighthouse of Alexandria, the Pharos. When so displayed Isis was named Pharia, the light of the mariner, and as such was placed on coins and medals. 4. As the mother of all living beings she is a wo- man seated, nursing a boy, — Osiris or Horus, with a 3rescent on his head ; two hoopoes rest on the top of her chair back; offerings of bread and wine are placed before her. The vessel shown on the coins is the sacred Krater or Kelebe, with the serpent handle, and used only in the sacred rites. 5. Tlie body of a woman (or bust, if on a coin), with the head of a cow ; or sometimes the head and features of a woman, with m g^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 438 the horns, eai-s, and rough shoii hair of a cow. The coins bear this symbol surrounded by several six- pointed stars, each of which stars has a disc in the centre. 6. In one group (painted on the temple wall at Karnak) Isis is represented as a mother, crowned with the sacred bird and serpent symbol, bearing the crescent and sphere, giving suck to a boy (Horus) who stands beside her; priests offer the lotus, and Hermes records the progress of affairs behind the throne, while Osiris is seated as the god of the Nile, bearing the staff tipped with a lotus, and is crowned with the sacred ostrich plume. 7. Isis seated, holding the infant Horus on her laj), nursing him. 8. As a draped woman, holding a lotus in her left hand, her head adorned with a gorgeous dress of plumes, with a crown. 9. As a woman draped with a very full cos- tume, and a cloak with fiinges, holding a sistrum in one hand and the sacred cruse in the other, her head draped with a shawl and crowned with a shell. It is supposed that gratitude to the cow and ox, and fear of the noxious animals and reptiles, prompted their worship. The same animals were differently esteemed in upper and lower Egypt, and in various sections of either, depending on local influences. In one section crocodiles were worshiped, while in an- other they were killed and eaten. Every house in the land had its bird, sacred to some deity, and when it died its body was embalmed, blest by the priest and buried. The sphinx was a fabled animal, represented with a lion's body and a woman's head, covered with the national type of head-dress. The body is stretched vCPj^ --TV M. ^^^I^^^^sfi i39 out as at rest. The great sphinx at Ghizeh has a small temple placed between its forepaws, and the head is more than sixty feet high, the grandest mythical figure ever sculptured. A very curious combination of animal forms is found on a coin of Hadrian, in which are the body of a lion, with a serpent tail, with a head of Isis crowned with the sacred horns and two flags, and a second head and neck projecting from the breast of the lion, the mane being braided on the back of the lion ; beliind the woman's head is a griffin holding a wheel. The whole group stands on a ser- pent which has a crocodile's jaws. This probably had a typical meaning, similar to those of the Gnostics of the early centuries of the Christian era. At Karnak there were avenues of sphinxes, lead- ing to the entrances of the great temples, where hun- dreds of these mythological things were arranged in solemn grandeur on either side the paved way on which the initiated and the candidate for the honors of the mysteries marched in procession. One of the most important minor symbols was the lotus flower, the most sacred flower of the Nile, the emblem of the creation of the world, and. of the fu- ture life, a beautiful reminder of their faith and hope in immortality and happiness beyond the tomb. The two serpents coiled around a globe or red disc, with outspread wings, were emblems of eternity and motion, and of kingly power, and as such were sculptured over the entrance to a temple, tomb, or as an ornament to the king's crown. The all-seeing eye was an emblem peculiar to om- niscience. 440 The sacred ship or ark was an object of general reverence. It was provided with emblems of the gods, ornamented with great care, and carried in procession, and was probably a remembrance of the ark in which the body of Osiris was laid after he was killed by Typhon. A minute description of the offices and attributes of the populous pantheon of Egypt would swell a lai-ge volume, and range through every department of na- ture, the earth and the heavens. The most sacred vessels used in the service of the temple were the canopoe, jugs, made of brass, with a full rouud body, narrow neck, and fitted with a head of some deity, and often covered with inscriptions in the sacred writing. The priesthood were a separate and favored class, whose duties were to keep the sacred mysteries, teach the popular theology, and perform the duties of the temple, to which end they cultivated the arts and sciences, and exercised legislative and judicial power, and advised the king. They even furnished from among their number a successor to the throne when a dynasty became extinct. The priests prescribed rules for the training and education of the children of the king, and also for the guidance of the king himself, both in his ofiicial and domestic affairs, even to the appointment of the times when it was proper for him to eat, drink, walk and bathe. The caste was divided into classes of different ranks ; 1. Prophets, 2. Stolists, 3. Scribes, 4. Astrologers, 5. Musicians, 6. Physicians. Besides these there wa8 % college in the honor of every great divinity. The priesthood was hereditary, and all temple property also; and their dress and mode of living were pre- scribed by strict rules, regulating and directing every act of their entire lives, as well as theirs did for the king. The priest shaved his head weekly, or daily, accord- ing to the rule, except when in mourning for the king or'a member of his family. He dressed in white linen or cotton, and shoes of reeds, and he bathed twice both day and night. His food was selected with the greatest care, and his diet was carefully prepared, strictly avoiding pork, and all other articles known to be indigestible. The priest and the king were per- mitted the use of wine in prescribed quantities at cer- tain times. The duties of the priesthood were various. The prophets were directors of the temple services, and had charge of the revenues of the kingdom. The stolists placed the mark of the sacred order on all things set apart for sacrifice. The scribes kept the sacred archives, wrote the current history of the king- dom, and were instructors in the arts and sciences ; the astrologers were a part of the last-named class ; they were not scientific but rather idealists. The musicians wrote and arranged the sacred chants, and led all processions. The physicians were the learned men who made the healing art a life study, and as Herodotus and other ancients say, with great success. It appeai-s that animal magnetism was well known in the ancient days, but did not hold a very high rank as a healing power. The moral and religious instruction of the people, ^ :4^fr.-rKp»'' :yy^^_ 442 in preceding ages, was confided to a select order of men who were educated and trained to tliat line of duty, and their peculiar work was termed the arYSTEEiES, because the most essential features were mysterious and untaught to the people. Before the establishment of Christianity the people were kept in ignorance of the true doctrine of the divinity and man's accountability, and were only permitted to have dim visions of the truth as shown in symbols, myths, and certain rites and ceremonies, typical but not explanatory of the hidden meaning. The priesthood sought to keep as mysterious and secret the arts and sciences, for by such knowledge they added to their power over the working classes, and were able to rule with greater severity and cer- tainty. The excuse offered by the priesthood for this course is that the generality of mankind are too profoundly ignorant of divine things to understand the simple truth, and it is therefore necessary to present it in parables and symbols. That may have been the case to a certain extent in those ages, from a lack of edu- cation and culture, but cannot hold equally true now that the masses can read and think for themselves. The result in ancient times was that the people misunderstood the symbols for the truth that was behind them, and never dreamed of a hidden mean- ing, and so a sphinx, an obelisk, or a statue of a god was a real sphinx, obelisk or statue, and nothing more. The great advantages this condition of affairs gave the priests, stimulated them t(^ great care in keeping concealed the precious mysteries, the sonrce of their power and station in life. The first requisites therefore in a candidate for the mysteries, were a mind well stored and broadened with knowledge, and sufficiently cultivated and en- lightened to value the lessons taught by them to their disciples, and that his inclinations should be towards a pure and moral life. In order to ir)\])ress in the most solemn and pro- found manner the importance and sacredness of the 'mysteries on the mind of the candidate, there v)as required a Jearful and solemn oath of secrrecy and silence hefore initiation. The initiation itself was conducted with great de- liberation, and with the most solemn and impressive ceremonies, whose object was to lead the mind of the neophyte to reflect on the great problems of life, duty, destiny ; the brevity and vanity of life; the cer- tainty of death and judgment; on virtue and truth, and their heavenly beauty and brightness, as contrast- ed with the darkness and repulsiveness of vice and falsehood. The novice was instructed first, gradually, in sym- l)ols, and was advanced by degrees only towards the true meaning of the sacred mysteries. The most binding obligations were laid on the initiated, re- quiring a faithful discharge in charity, love of his kind, and inflexible honor, as the most acceptable to the gods, and the most beneficent to mankind. The candidate was required to pass a certain time in meditation, in solitude; frequent purifica- tions of the body, by certain prescribed methods, Is 444 were also required. After this preparation he waa taken in charge by conductors apf)ointed to lead him through the several ways, ascents, descents, turnings, dangers and difficulties of the mystic journey of ini- tiation which was typical of secresy, and of the march of humanity upwards from the realms of ignorance and degradation, towards civilization and enlighten- ment. The ceremonies were emblematical of the development of man, progressively from lower to higher degrees of knowledge and usefulness, and as a type^ were intended as a help towards such eleva- tion. They were also prophetic of the golden age which has been looked for in every nation as a result of culture and progress in virtue and morality, wlien virtue without vice, and truth without error, shall guide all mankind in every relation, securing health, haj)piness and long life. The opinion of all the ancient teachers of religion was that future punishment was purgatorial, and therefore not endless, but continuing only so long as there was need of its purifying service. It was a healing balm, and not a bitter finality. The initia- tory ceremony included lessons in its rites and sym- bols inculcating the value of sorrow and affliction as teachers of the soul, and the means of elevating it from the troubled life of the earth to the peaceful and blessed existence in Elysium. The idea was that the only way to perfection was through trials, gloom, and suffering, and that the highest good, and most peaceful- repose of the soul were to be expected as a reward for tears, mortification, sacrifice, and even self- abnegation in death itself. -i 445 Therefore the highest efforts of the priesthood were applied to the production of the most grand and im- pressive effect upon the mind of the neophyte during his initiation. Herein is seen the necessity that the candidate he of full age, sound in body and mind, educated, cultured, and of fine qualities, adapted to receiving these sublime impressions. The ancients were sincere and earnest in their faith in the unseen and spiritual, and believed in the necessary blending of the truths of science and reli- gion. Some modern philosophers hold the same opin- ions, and claim that religion will only be pure and acceptable to the masses when science is respected by its teachers, and the teachings of both science and revelation are harmonized. The present deplorable condition of the church in the midst of a people whose pride and boast is in irreligion and disbelief of the dogmas, can be charged mainly to the separation of science and religion, and the antagonism resulting therefrom. The religion of the ancients embraced all the facts of physical science, while art and philosophy were essential elements, and rested on a spiritual basis, since all combined were necessary to a right under- standing of the phenomena of nature, the motion of the heavenly bodies, the grand cosmogony of the uni- verse, the mystery of existence, and the notions of the future. The<^elements were generally grouped under four heads — earth, fire, water and air. These represented the universe of material things with which the soul has to contend in this life. The material world, in their estimation, was the reflection of the real existences, the spiritual realities now unseen but represented by nature in its varied aspects, laws', motions, and quali- ties, which science aided by religion attempts to un- derstand. The initiation was, therefore, a great scientific, phi- losophic, religious drama, which had for its direct object the instruction of the candidate, and indirectly his culture in the verities of religion, a personal ac- countability to God, himself, and his fellow-beings, and a continuance of this state into the future life. In all their meditations, in every rite and ceremony, in sacrifice, public, or personal and private, in sorrow, affliction, suffering, or even in joy, they saw the sha- dow of the great unseen and mysterious One, who is present with every soul as its creator, preserver, and beneficent help. INITIATION. The first step in the initiation of a candidate was an introduction to the stern realities of the powers of the earthy elements. Gates of solid iron refused to open until by proper supplication and prostration, at- tested by his companion and witness, he had humbled himself before the guardian deity. These opened, the candidate proceeded through a low passage down wards on his hands and knees to a subterranean room, where he was received by three guards, who were dis- guised as tutelary deities of the pj^ramid. ^^hey ques- tioned him in set terms, and the answers having been M 447 given in proper form, he was directed to continue on througli another descending passage to a series of underground apartments specially designed for the various steps in the progress of the ceremonies. Over the door of entrance to these rooms was en- graved the sentence : — " The courageous soul which travels alone this fearful way, without hesitation or timidity, after jpiirifioation hy earth, fire, water, and air, shall be enlightened by the glorious mysteries of Isis." Then these guardians, disguised as the keepers of the gates of death, with jackal heads, recounted the several trials awaiting; his onward march. THE FIRST STAGE IN THE INITIATION — THE TEST BY FIEE. His courage sustaining him, he was permitted to pass on into the Hall of Fire, where every device was resorted to for the deception of the senses, giv- ing the appearance of fire and danger without the realities. Jets of flame in the walls and ceiling, heightened by mirroi-s, intensified by colored glass, threw a many-tinted light over a floor of iron bars, painted in imitation of hot grates over intense fires. This bursting suddenly on the eyes after the long dark passage must have been appaling. In the Hall of Fire the candidate learned this lesson. To the coui-ao^eous and true all difiiculties The courage of the neophyte sustaining him, he passed forward unhurt into the Hall of Water. THE TEST BY WATEK. The Hall of "Water was also so designed as to present that element in all its aspects of steam, mist, rain, waterfall, and rushing stream, with but one way directly through the swift current to the opposite shore, where stood other guardians, armed with the sjanbols and weapons of the keepers of the dead, whose awful shapes are associated with the rites of sepulture, and suggest most gloomy and awful vis- ions, and who opposed his further progress by refus- ing to open an iron door which was vast and solid, and covered with inscriptions and emblems, teaching the value of fortitude, perseverance, and integrity. THE TEST BY AIE. After satisfying the guardians of his right to ad- vance, the door was opened, and he entered the Hall OF Winds. Here he was at the mercy of swift winds blown upon him from every direction, and so con- trived as to whirl him off his feet, and carry him about the apartment helplessly, teaching him the power of the unseen, the unknown, and enforcing the rule of humility. On the enunciation of the required pray- ers he was relieved from his peril, and light being admitted, in the hands of an attendant, this inscrip- tion was visible on a door. ^\8 RaT> or THE " He that would be exalted must humble himself." The door was then thrown open, and he was led hi to the sanctuary of the goddess Isis", where before the high altar were arranged in full dress the band of priests and attendants, solemnly chanting as if in supplications for his deliverance from trials and dan- gers. Before the altar he knelt and repeated the solemn oath of secrecy, after which he was received on pro- bation for half a year, during which time the most seductive temptations of wine and women were dis- played before him, as a test of his moral strength and endurance. Some say that valuables, such as gold and jewels, were laid in his way as if carelessly, as a temptation to break the law of right of possession. THE SECOND STAGE — THE SACKIFICE. If he passed through all these trials and remained cliaste, pure, and honest, he was admitted to a further advance which was called the manifestation. In this series of ceremonies, which were continued for twelve days (one for each sign of the Zodiac), he was dedi- cated to the great gods, and invested with the twelve mystic scarfs, also a sacred cloak, embroidered with zodiacal signs and symbols of the starry heavens, the abode of the gods and happy spirits, and the reward of the faithful and pure. He was crowned with palm leaves as symbolic of the new life given him, and a lamp was placed in his hand, signifying his office of teacher and guide, and SP^P^K^^^^S 452 in thts Gondition he was again led to the alter, where the oath of secrecy was repeated, and the gods were invoked to visit him with their direst wrath if ha should ever, even accidejitally, reveal the mysteries to any prof ane one. THE LAST STAGE THE TRIUMPHAL PROCESSION. After these days of preparation and ceremonies of the Greater Mysteries, he was entitled to receive instruction in the Lesser Mysteries, called also the Institutes of Isis. During these ceremonies, which continued for a longer or shorter term of days, ac- cording to the dignity of the candidate, or his propos- ed station in the priesthood, he was made acquainted with the writings of Thot, the god of eloquence, the inventor of writing, of philosophy, and he recei\ ed a collar embroidered with emblems of his pnigress and acquirements, and became after due examination entitled to appear as a Yictor before the people in a solemn procession, called the Triumphal March of the Initiated. This occasion was often made a most magnificent affair, in which many orders of men and women took part in great numbers, and particularly the priests of tihe great gods who wore disguises in imitation of the statues of their several divinities, which were sym- bolical of their peculiar attributes. The most precious treasures of the sanctuary were displayed, and sacrifices prepared to Isis, her statue being vailed in a black gauze, c/er a drapery of i I 457 wliite silk, embroidered in gold, with appropriate emblems of her attributes. The procession formed in the court of the Temple of Isis, and after the sacrifice moved westward in a certain order. Fii-st in the train was seated a young woman with a mask in imitation of the head of the goddess Isis as the divine mother, the car being drawn by white horses ; after which the priests walked in the order of their rank, in their most gorgeous attire, bearing their sacred symbols, the vessels of the tem- ple, tlie Holy "Writings of Thot, the tablets of Isis, which were her mysteries engraved on silver, and fol- lowing these were the people in the order of their sev- eral stations in public or private life, dressed in white linen or cotton. The newly initiated walked in the midst of these, distinguished only by his head veil being longer than that of the others, reaching to the feet. The houses along the route were decorated with banners and flowers as on festal days, and perfumes were showered over the passing multitude by wealthy residents. Music both vocal and instrumental, and dancing by professional experts accompanied them to the end, where a general shout proclaimed tlie arrival. The ceremonies were continued in the temple by elevating the novitiate to a throne, and investing him with a white linen suit in place of the holiday garb jnst discarded, when he was declared a member of the order. The closing scenes consisted of feasts, which were kept up during three days, in which the newly ad- mitted brother occupied the seat of honor. On the occasion of the initiation of a distinguished person from a foreign country, the mystic tragedy of Osiris was enacted, consisting of appropriate cere- monials, chants, processions, and parts by special players, altogether reproducing the story of the death, burial, and resurrection of Osiris, and tlie de- struction of Typhon. The whole was a symbol of the contest between Good and Evil, and the victory of the good after trial and proof of purity. The initiated then became one of the priests of the lowest order, and a student in the schools, where he had a choice among several arts and sciences, any one of which he might select as his calling. The results of this system are to be discovered in the most wonderful remains of Egyptian art, and the written accounts of their achievements in science, some of which have not yet been more than equalled by modern researches. In astronomy, physics, and literature they were the admiration of the world, attracting the wisest and best men from every quar- ter of the earth, and benefiting mankind by dis- seminating the truths of their system throughout the civilized nations. Greece and Rome borrowed their choicest ideas in art, science, philosophy and religion from Egypt, and through the Hebrews, Christianity owes to them much of its knowledge of the One God, all-wise, all-good, all-powerful. CHAPTER XIV. PIiACES CONNECTED WITH THE CKTJCIFIXIOlir. David's Tomb, The Last Supper — The Garden of Gethse- viane, Christ^ a Agony — BaII of Evil Counsel — Church of the Soly Sepulchre — Place of Crucifixion — Holy Sepulchre — Place of Ascension. DAYId's tomb, OB EESTING-PLACE, THE LAST SUPPEE. This place is on tlie southern slope of Monnt Zion, a short distance from its summit, and is covered by a pile of bijildings, in one of the most ancient of which, it is believed, was the room where Jesus held his last sup- per with his disciples. " He will show you," said the Saviour, " a large upper room." This room is about fifty feet long and thirty wide. The great antiquity of this building none can question. Epiphanius, towards the close of the fourth century, states that this build- ing, with a few others near it, escaped destruction when Titus overthrew the city. JfJh, No. 61. —THE GABDEN OF GETHSKIVIANE, CHRISt's AGONY. ^ I i Just east of the Kidron, at the foot of the Mount of Olives, is the Garden of Gethseraane. A part of it is mm 460 enclosed by a strong stone wall about ten feet higL Tills enclosure is shaded by eight venerable old olive trees, and planted with beds of flowers and various kinds of shrubbery. Its close proximity to the city, and the nature of the grounds, would point it out as a suitable place for a public garden. The place is so plainly indicated in the Scripture narrative, as to leave no room to doubt but that this enclosure is a part of the ancient Garden of Gethsemane. And he said, "Abba, Father, all things are possible unto thee ; take away this cup from me : nevertheless, not what I will, but what thou wilt." (St. Mark xiv. 36.) HILL OF EVIL COUNSEL. This hill takes its name from a tradition that the re- sidence of Caiaphas was located upon its summit, and that here the chief priests and scribes assembled together to take counsel against Jesus. It rises to a height of nearly five hundred feet above the pool of Siloam, and is situated near the lower part of the valley. THE PLACE OF CRUCIFIXION. The question as to where the Crucifixion did take place has been carried on until recently without any reasonable determination. It has been supposed that the Holy Sepulchre Church included the place of the Crucifixion, but the course of the ancient walls, which have now been .W/iii'.ii^''^ 9, 463 very accurately traced out, has settled that point against the claim that this church covered the true site, although there is undoubted historical evidence that it was originally built in the fourth century, and on a site which was traditionally said to have been the Calvary of the Gospel narrative. But two or three hundred years must have impaired the tradition, for it can be safely said that the name and skull-shaped hill over the Jeremiah Grotto should have pointed out the right place to all observing eyes. We Imow from a comparison of the plans of the city in the time of Arculf, a.d. 700, of the Crusaders, 1190, and also in Sandys, 1610, that the location of St. Stephen's Gate had been changed fi-om the north side of the city, now called Damascus Gate, to the east side, where it is now, and which was known as the Little Gate, a.d. 700, and Jehoshaphat Gate in the Crusades. Attention was called to the probability of the true Bite being north of the city 20 years ago by Thenius, whose views were adopted by other scholars such as Fisher, Eobinson, Howe (Oriental Scenes, 1854) ; A. L. Eawson (Map of Palestine, 1856) ; Robert Morris (Youthful Explorers in the Holy Land, 1870). The ]-equirements of the Scripture narrative as to the place will be seen from the following. And he bearing his cross went forth into a place called the place of a slcull, which is called in the Hebrew, Golgotha. And Pilate wrote a title, and put it on the cross. And the writing was, Jesus of ^azaketh the King OF THE Jews. W^ 464 This title then read many of the Jews: fci' the place where Jesus was crucified was ni(jh to the city : and it was written in Hebrew, and Greek, and Latin. Now in the place where he was crucified there was a garden / and in the garden a new sepulcln-e, wherein was never man yet laid. St. John, xix. 17, 19, 20, 41. And they bring him unto the place Golgotha^ which is, being interpreted, the place of a skull (St. Mark, XV. 22). And as they came out they found a man of Gyrene Simon by name : him they compelled to bear his cross. And when they were come unto a place called Golgotha^ that Is to say a place of the shull (Mat- hew, xxvii. 32, 33). Wherefore Jesus also, that he might sanctify the people with his own blood, suffered without the gate (Hebrews, xiii. 12). MEETING THE KEQUIEEMENT8. GOLGOTHA. This name is derived from the Hebrew for skull, and being translated into Greek is Kranium, and into Latin is Calvaria, which also means skull. All of these terms apply to a skull-shaped hill which has been known as the Grotto of Jeremiah, thouo^h without any connection with that prophet historical or traditional. This hill is very distinctly skull-shaped as may be seen in the engraving, and it also answers most, if not all, of the requirements of the text. 1. The place is said in the Gospel account to have been out of the city ; this place is so now, and there s.^ -^Hl^o, It / / \ 'I is little doubt that it was at that time outside of the walls. The city may have been extended beyond this place after the CrucifixioD, but it certainly did not include the high plain around Golgotha before that event. 2. It is described in the text as being "nigh unto the city," and it is about 500 feet from the wall near the Damascus Gate (formerly St. Stephen's Gate). 3. The Gospel account mentions a garden, and this place is now, and doubtless was then, capable of cultivation. 4. It is near one of the most traveled roads both at that time and at present, being the one leading from the Damascus Gate north towards Shechem, and to Joppa by Beth-horon. 5. As there is no other, site or place that meets the foregoing requirements of the Scripture narrative, tlie conclusion is very evident that this is the spot which was hallowed by the blood of the Saviour. CHTJECH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHEE. — 'No. 9. This church is in the Christian quarter of the city, at the termination of Dolorosa. (See plan.) Tradi- tion, and some of the earliest written records, point to the area occupied by this structure as the place of the burial, if not the crucifixion of Christ. Yet because of its being so far within the walls of the city it has been claimed by many that it could not be the place. This place was originally the side of a slight eleva- tion or hill, but its summit and sides have been graded down to accomodate the surface to the im- m m I a mense structure that now occupies it. The origin of this church is credited to Constantine, who completed and dedicated it a.d. 335 ; in a.d. 614 it was destroy- ed by the Persians ; rebuilt, it was again destroyed, and completely demolished by the Kaliph Hakim in 1048 ; rebuilt again, it stood until 1808, when it was destroyed by an accidental fire. It was again rebuilt and dedicated in 1810. The present Church of the Holy Sepulchre is a col- lection of buildings under one roof, without regard to order or style of architecture ; 350 feet long by 280 wide, including many sacred places, presided over by different sects in separate chapels. Like its predecessors, this church was erected to cover and enshrine the Holy Sepulchre and the place of crucifixion. The extent and number of interesting objects in- cluded within this building can best be indicated on a plan, and it may not be without interest to remark that this plan is nearly identical with one engraved in the work of Sandys, 1610, so few have been the chancres in the last two centuries. No. 1. Entrance from Yia Dolorosa. 2. Chapel of the Angel. 3. The Holy Sepulchre. 4. The centre (or navel) of the world — according to the Greek interpretation of Ezekiel v. 5. 5. The Latin Church. 6. 49 steps cut in the solid rock leading down to the Chapel of the finding of the Cross. 7. Calvary — which is reached by finely cut marble steps from near No. 1. In addition to these the following are pointed out as veritable antiquities, miraculously preserved. The spot where the Saviour was nailed to the Cross. The Chapel of the Sacrifice of Isaac. Chapel of the Altar of Melchizedec. The spot where the garments of Jesus were divided by the soldiers. Where the Lord was confined in prison. The stone of unction, on which Jeeus was prepared for the tomb ; tomb of Melchizedec ; tomb of Adam, and of John the Baptist ; the place where the Virgin Mary stood at the Crucifixion ; Chapel marking the spot on which the Angel stood who appeared to Mary Magdalene; tombs of Joseph and Nicodemus ; and the pillar of flagellation — to which Jesus was bound to be whipped. THE CHAPEL OF THE CRUCIFIXION. In this chapel, at the eastern end, is a platform ten feet long, six feet wide, and elevated about eighteen inches above the floor. On this platform is a richly decorated altar ; under it, in the middle of the marble floor, are three round holes, cased with silver; be- neath these holes is the spot on which it is claimed the crosses stood. The one on which Christ was cruci- fied in the centre, and those of the two malefactors on the right and left. . THE HOLT SEPULCHKE. The Sepulchre was originally a grotto, cut in the rock like other Jewish tombs, but is now detached from the hillside, and is all above ground, and ^tp.■^ /^ C\^ ^^3^' -7^ ss^3 ii elevated a little above the level of the floor. It stauds in the centre of the great rotunda, and directly under the dome of the church. The Se23ulchre is covered by a small structure of yellow and white marble, twenty-six feet long, and eighteen feet broad ; a small dome in the form of a crown surmounts the top. The house of the Sepulchre -is profusely orna- mented. The whole exterior is nearly covered with pictures, crucifixes, and images, and hung j-ound with gold and silver lamps. There are also standing by its sides several wax candles, nearly as large as a man's body, and about ten feet high. A low, narrow opening in the wall, only large enough to admit one person at a time, leads to a chamber about twelve feet square. This is the outer room or vestibule of the tomb, and is called " The Chapel of the Angel." At the western side of this room is a low, narrow opening, barely large enough to admit a medium-sized person, and such only can effect an entrance by bending very low and crawling through. The Sepulchre is a room six feet one way by seven the other, and is covered by a dome roof, which is supported by marble pillars. Forty-two lamps of gold and silver, richly wrought, are suspend- ed around the sides of this grotto, and kept continu- ally burning. A small platform of stone, about two feet high, stands on the right side of the entrance ; on which is a plain marble slab, bearing evidence of great antiquity. Such slabs were used for the recep- tion of the dead, and on this, it is believed, the Sa- viour was laid. Among the few genuine antiquities found in this i \\~^ \\\ \^, church are the tombs of Godfrey de Bouillon, and Baldwin his brother, who were buried near the cross for which they fought so valiantly ; and in the Latin sacristy the sword and spurs of Godfrey are preserved. The Superior of the Franciscans, called the Eever- endissimo, uses the sword in conferring the order of Knight of the Holy Sepulchre, an order instituted by Godfrey himself. BETHAIfY — THE PLACE OF ASCENSION. This place is called by the Arabs Laazeiyeh, and is situated on the eastern slope of the Mount of Olives, and near its base. It is now a small Arab village, containing about twenty houses, all of which have the appearance of being ancient and time-worn. This is the place where Mary and Martha, with then- brother Lazarus, had their home, and to which Jesus was wont to return at night fi'om Jerusalem for refi-eshment and rest. This is also the place of the Ascension. "And he led them out as far as to Bethany; and he lifted up his hands, and blessed them. And it came to pass, while he blessed them, he was parted from them, and carried up into heaven." (St. Luke xxiv. 50, 51.) I i til I k or THE '^ ^*i£^ or LlFORH\h^ '2^ft» CHAPTER XV SCRIPTURB ACCOUNT OF BUILDING KING SOLOMON S TEMPLE Mt. Moriah—BavicTs preparation for building ih^ Temple and Charge to Solomon.— Solomon builds the Temple— Its Dedication.— Destruction. "And God sent an angel unto Jerusalem to destroy it : and as he was destroying, the Lord beheld, and ho repented him of the evil, and said to the angel that destroyed it, It is enough, stay now thine hand. And the angel of the Lord stood by the threshing-floor of Oman the Jebusite.* And David lifted up his eyes, and saw the angel of the Lord stand between the earth and the heaven, hav- ino- a drawn sword in his hand stretched out over J erusalem. Then David and the elders of Israel, who iv&re clothed in sackcloth, fell upon their faces. And David said unto God, Is it not I that com- manded the people to be numbered? even I it is that have sinned and done evil indeed ; but as for these sheep, what have they done? let thine hand, I pray * On Mount Moriah. m B thee, O Lord my God, be on me, and on my fatlicr'a house ; but not on thy people, that they should be plagued. Then the angel of the Lord commanded Gad to say to Da\dd, that David should go up, and set up an altar unto the Lord in the threshing-floor of Oman tlie Jebusite. And David went up at the saying of Gad, which he spake in the name of the Lord. And Oman turned back, and saw the angel ; and his four sons with him hid themselves. Now Ornan was threshing wheat. And as David came to Oman, Oman looked and saw David, and went out of the threshing-floor, and bowed himself to David with his face to the ground. Then David said to Ornan, Grant me the place of this threshing-floor, that I may build an altar therein unto the Lord : thou shalt grant it me for the full price : that the plague may be stayed from the people. And Oman said unto David, Take it to thee, and let my lord the king do that which is good in his eyes : lo, I give thee the oxen also for burnt-offerings, and the threshing instruments for wood, and the wheat for the meat-offering ; I give it all. And king David said to Ornan, Nay ; but I will verily buy it for the full price : for I will not take that which is thine for the Lord, nor offer bumt-offer- Lngs without cost. So David gave to Oman for the place six hundred shekels of gold by weight. And David built there an altar nnto the Lord, and offered burnt-offerings and peace-offerings, and called !i I'l '/a upon the Lord ; and he answered him fi-om heaven by tire upon the altar of burnt-offering. And the Lord commanded the angel ; and he put up his sword again into the sheath thereof. At that time when David saw that the Lord had answered him in the threshing-floor of Oman the Jebusite, then he sacrificed there. For the tabernacle of the Lord, which Moses made in the wilderness, and the altar of the burnt-offering, were at that season in the high place at Gibeon. But David could not go before it to inquire of God : for he was afraid because of the sword of the angel of the Lord. (1 Chron. xxi. 15 to 30.) David's peepakation foe building the temple, and charge to solomon. And David commanded to gather together the strangers tiiat were in the land of Israel ; and he set masons to hew wrought stones to build the house of God. And David prepared iron in abundance for the nails for the doors of the gates, and for the joinings ; and brass in abundance without weight ; Also cedar-trees in abundance : for the Zidonians and they of Tyre brought much cedar-wood to David. And Da^'id said, Solomon my son is young and tender, and the hou^e that is to be builded for the Lord must he exceeding magnifical, of fame and of glory throughout all countries : I will therefore now make preparation for it. So David prepared abun- dantly before liis death. 'f 6\ sm,m ''} I ' 1*. 4 m I ffj, \ mm Then he called for Solomon his son, and charged him to build a house for the Lord God of Israel. And David said to Solomon, My son, as for me, it was in my mind to build a house unto the name of the Lord my God : But the word of the Lord came to me, saying, Thou hast shed blood abundantly, and hast made great wars ; thou shalt not build an house unto my name, because thou hast shed much blood upon the earth in my sight. Behold, a son shall be born to thee, who shall be a man of rest ; and I will give him rest from all his enemies round about : for his name shall be Solomon, and I will give peace and quietness unto Israel in his days. He shall build a house for my name ; and he shall be my son, and I will he his father ; and I will estab- lish the throne of his kingdom over Israel for ever. Now, my son, the Lord be with thee ; and prosper thou, and build the house of the Lord thy God, as he hath said of thee. Only the Lord give thee wisdom and understand- ing, and give thee charge concerning Israel, that thou mayest keep the law of the Lord thy God. Then shalt thou prosper, if thou takest heed to f ul fill the statutes and judgments which the Lord charged Moses with concerning Israel : be strong, and of good courage ; dread not, nor be dismayed. Now, behold, in my trouble I have prepared for the house of the Lord a hundred thousand talents of gold, and a thousand thousand talents of silver ; and of brass and iron without weight ; for it is in abundance. aa ^^^^^^^^^^^^^Si 485 timber also and stoue have I prepared; and thou niayest add thereto. Moreover, there are workmen with thee in abun- dance, hewers and workers of stone and timber, and all manner of cunning men for every manner of work. Of the gold, the silver, and the brass, and the iron, there is no number. Arise therefore, and be doing, and the Lord be with thee. David also commanded all the princes of Israel to help Solomon his son, saying, Is not the Lord your God with you ? and hath he 7wt given you rest on every side ? for he hath given the inhabitants of the land into mine hand ; and the land is subdued before the Lord, and before his people. Now set your heart and your soul to seek the Lord your God ; arise therefore, and build ye the sanctuary of the Lord God ; to bring the ark of the covenant of the Lord, and the holy vessels of God, into the house that is to be built to the name of the Lord. (1 Chron. xxii. 2 to 19.) Then David gave to Solomon his son the. pattern of the porch, and of the houses thereof, and of the treasuries thereof, and of the upper chambers thereof, and of the inner parlors thereof, and of the place of the mercy-seat, And the pattern of all that he had by the Spirit, of the courts of the house of the Lord, and of all the chambers round about, of the treasm-ies of the house of God, and of the treasuries of the dedicated things: Also for the courses of the priests and the Le- vi tes, and for all the work of the service of the house C^' <A f y/ of the Lord, and for all the vessels of service in the house of the Lord. He gave of gold by weight for things of gold, foi all instruments of all manner of service : silver also for all instruments of silver bj weight, for all instru ments of every kind of service : Even the weight for the candlesticks of gold, and for their lamps of gold, by weight for every candle- stick, and for the lamps thereof ; and for the candle- sticks of silver by weight, hoth for the candlestick, and also for the lamps thereof, according to the use of every candlestick. And by weight he gave gold for the tables of shew- bread, for every table ; and likewise silver for the tables of silver:' Also pure gold for the flesh-hooks, and the bowls, and the cups : and for the golden basins he gave gold by weight for every basin ; and likewise silver by weight for every basin of silver: And for the altar of incense refined gold by weight ; and gold for the pattern of the chariot of the cheru- bim, that spread out their wings, and covered the ark of the covenant of the Lord. All this, said David, the Lord made me under- stand in writing by his hand upon me, even all tlia works of this pattern. And David said to Solomon his son. Be strong and of good courage, and do it : fear not, nor be dis- mayed, for the Lord God, even my God, will he with thee; he will not fail thee, nor forsake thee, until thou hast finished all the work for the service of the house of the Lord. hi<M ',m m :^5S^^^^^^ y/fi 487 And, behold, the courses of the priests and the Le- vites, even they shall he with thee for all the service ol the house of God : and there shall he with thee for all manner of workmanship every willing skillful man, for any manner of service : also the princes and all the people will he wholly at thy commandment. (1 Chron. xxviii. 11 to 21.) Furthermore Da%nd the king said unto all the con- gregation, Solomon my son, whom alone God hath chosen, is yet young and tender, and the work is great : for the palace is not for man, hut for the Lord God. Now I have prepared with all my might for the house of my God the gold for things to he made of gold, and the silver for things of silver, and the brass for things of brass, the iron for things of iron, and wood for things of wood ; onyx stones, and stones to be set, glistering stones, and of divers colors, and all manner of precious stones, and marble stones in abundance. Moreover, because I have set my affection to the huuse of my God, I have of mine own proper good, of gold and silver, which I have given to the house of my God, over and above all that I have prepared for the holy house, Even three thousand talents of gold, of the gold of \\ Ophir, and seven thousand talents of refined silver, to overlay the walls of the houses withal : The gold for things of gold, and the silver for things of silver, and for all manner of work to he made by the hands of artificers. And who then is will- ing to consecrate his service this day mito the Lord 1 ^ 48S Then the chief of the fathers and princes of the tribes of Israel, and the captains of thousands and oi hundreds, with the rulers of the king's work, offered willingly, And gave, for the service of the house of God, of gold five thousand talents and ten thousand drams, and of silver ten thousand talents, and of brass eight- een thousand talents, and one hundred thousand tal- ents of iron. j^ And they with whom jfyredous stones were found gave them to the treasure of the house of the Lord, by the hand of Jehiel the Gershonite, Then the people rejoiced, for that they offered \\illingly, because with perfect heart they offered willingly to the Lord : and David tlie king also re joiced with great joy. Wherefore David blessed the Lord before all the congregation : and David said, Blessed l)e thou, Lord God of Israel our father, for ever and ever. (1 Cliron. xxix. 1 to 10—26, 27, 28.) Thus David the son of Jesse reigned over all Is- iF^^i rael. And the time that he reigned over Israel was forty years ; seven years reigned he in Hebron, and thirty -and three years reigned he in Jerusalem. And he died in a good old age, full of days, riches, and honoi-: and Solomon his son reigned in his stead. Then Solomon sat on the throne of the Lord aa king instead of David his father, and prospered ; and all Israel obeyed him. And all the princes, and the mighty men, and all the Wh "^^^c < A ■'. TSh* or [10 HH — ^^% 491 sons likewise of king David, submitted themselves unto Solomon the king. And the Lord magnified Solomon exceedingly in the sight of all Israel, and bestowed upon him such rojal majesty as had not been on any king before him in Israel. (1 Chron, xxix. 23, 24, 25.) Then Solomon spake unto all Israel, to the cap- tains of thousands and of hundi'eds, and to the judges, and to every governor in all Israel, the chief of the fathers. So Solomon, and all the congregation with liim, went to the high place that was at Gibeon ; for there was the tabernacle of the congregation of God, which Moses the servant of the Lord had made in the wilderness. But the ark of God had David brought up from Kirjath-jearim to the place which David had pre- pared for it : for he had pitched a tent for it at Jem salem. Moreover the brazen altar, that Bezaleel the son of Uri, the son of Ilur, had made, he put before the tabernacle of the Lord: and Solomon and the con gregation sought unto it. And Solomon went up thither to the brazen altar before the Lord, which was at the tabernacle of the congregation, and offered a thousand burnt-offeriuge upon it. In that night did God appear unto Solomon, and said unto him, Ask what I shall give thee. And Solomon said unto God, Thou hast shewed gi-eat mercy unto David my father, and hast me to reio-n in his stead. i m m Mf[ % Now, O Lord God, let thy promise unto David mj father be established : for thou hast made me king over a people Kke the dust of the earth in multi- tude. Give me now wisdom and knowledge ; that I may go out and come in before this people : for who can j udgo this thy people, that is so great ? And God said to Solomon, Because this was in thine heart, and thou hast not asked riches, wealth, or honor, nor the life of thine enemies, neither yet hast asked long life ; but hast asked wisdom and knowledge for thyself, that thou may est judge my people, over whom I have made thee king : Wisdom and knowledge is granted unto thee ; and I will give thee riches, and wealth, and honor, such as none of the kings have had that have heen before thee, neither shall there any after thee have the like, (ir Chron. i. 2 to 12.) And Solomon's wisdom excelled the wisdom of all the cliildren of the east country, and all the wisdom of Egypt, For he was wiser than all men ; than Ethan the Ezrahite, and Heman, and Chalcol, 2nd Darda, the sons of Mahol : and his fame was in all nations round about. And he spake three thousand proverbs: and his songs were a thousand and five. And he spake of trees, from the cedar-tree that is in Lebanon even unto the hyssop that springeth out of the wall : he spake also of beasts, and of fowl, and of cre(,'ping things, and of fishes. And there came of all people to hear the wisdom 'I' ^^^''•l k\i X.rt^^'ry JC-^, Of 'Orh\k of Solomon, from all kings of the earth, ^vhich had heard of his wisdom. And Iliram king of T}Te sent his servants unto Solomon; for he had heard that they had anointed him king in the room of his father: for Hiram was ever a lover of David. And Solomon sent to Hiram, saying, Thou knowest how that Da\ad ray father could not bnild a house unto the name of the Lord his God, for the wars which were about him on every side, until the Lord put them under the soles of his feet. But now the Lord my God hath given me rest on every side, so that there is neither adversary nor exdl occurrent. And behold, I purpose to build a house unto the name of the Lord my God, as the Lord spake unto David my father, saying. Thy son, whom I will set upon thj' throne in thy room, he shall build a house unto my name. Now tlierefore command thou that they hew me cedar-trees out of Lebanon; and my servants shall be with thy servants: and unto thee will I give hire for thy servants according to all that thou shalt appoint: for thou knowest that there is not among us any that can skill to hew timber like unto the Sidonians. And it came to pass, when Hiram heard the woi-ds of Solomon, that he rejoiced greatly, and said, Blessed he the Lord this day, which hath given unto Da\id a '«ise son over this great people. And Hiram sent to Solomon, saying, I have con- sidered the thintrs which thou sentcst to mc for: an<i sg^^^^'^n^X 496 I will do all thy desire concerning timber of cedar^ and concerning timber of fir. My servants shall bring them down from Lebanon unto the sea ; and I will convey them by sea in floata unto the place that thou shalt appoint me, and will cause them to be discharged there, and thou shalt receive them: and thou shalt accomplish my desire, in giving food for my household. So Hiram gave Solomon cedar-trees and fir-trees according to all his desire. And Solomon gave Hiram twenty thousand meas- ures of wheat for food to his household, and twenty measures of pure oil: thus gave Solomon to Hiram year by year. And the Lord gave Solomon wisdom, as he promised him : and there was peace between Hiram and Solo- mon; and they two made a league together. And king Solomon raised a levy out of all Israel ; and the levy was thirty thousand men. And he sent them to Lebanon, ten thousand a month by courses: a month they were in Lebanon, and two months at home: and Adoniram was over the levy. And Solomon had threescore and ten thousand that ■ bare burdens, and fourscore thousand hewers in the mountains ; Besides the chief of Solomon's officers which %oere over the work, three thousand and three hundred, which ruled over the people that wrought in the work. And tlie king commanded, and they brought great stones, costly stones, and hewed stones, to lay the foundation of the house. 1.^;'-? ig m And Solomon's builders and Hiram's builders did hew tJiein, and the stone-squarers : so they prepared timber and stones to build the house. (1 Kings! v. 30 to 34 ; also v.) SOLOMON BUILDS THE TEMPLE. And it came to pass in the four hundred and eigh- tieth year after the children of Israel were come out of the land of Egypt, in the fourth year of Solomon's reign over Israel, in the month Zif, which is the second month, tliat he began to build the house of the Lord. And the house which kiug Solomon built for the Lord, the length thereof was threescore cubits, and the breadth thereof twenty cuhits, and the height thereof thirty cubits.* And the porch before the temple of the house, twenty cubits was the length thereof, according to the breadth of the house ; aiul ten cubits was the breadth thereof before the house. And for the house he made windows of nari'ow lights. And against the wall of the house he built cham- bers round about, against the walls of the house round about, hoth of the temple and of the oracle: and he made chambers round about. The nethermost chamber was five cubits broad, and the middle was six cubits broad, and the third was seven cubits broad: for without in the wall of tlie house he made narrowed rests round about, that the beams should not be fastened in the walls of the house. Aud the house, when it was in building, was built Cubit — 18 inches. t Vvi -,>. m of stone made ready before it was brought thither: so that there was neither hammer nor axe nor any tool of iron heard in the house, while it was in building. The door for the middle chamber was in the right side of the house: and they went up with winding stairs into the middle chainl>ei\ and out of the middle into the third. And then he built chambei's against all the house, five cubits high : and they rested on the house with timber of cedar. And the word of the Lord came to Solomon, saying, Concerning this house which thou art in buildhig, if thou wilt M'alk in my statutes, and execute my judgments, and keep all my commandments to walk in them ; then will I perform my word with thee, wdiich I spake unto David thy father : Audi will dwell among the children of Israel, and will not forsake my people Israel. And he built the walls of the house within with boards of cedar, both the floor of the house, and the walls of the ceiling : and he covered them on the in- side with wood, and covered the floor of the house with planks of fir. And he built twenty cubits on the sides of the houst ^ both the floor and the walls with boards of cedar : ho even built them for it within, even for the oracle, even for the most \\o[^ jplace. And the house, that ^5, the temple before it, wjis forty cubits long. And the cedar of the house within was carved Vv'ith knops and open flowers : all was cedar ; there was no stone seen. And the oracle he prepared in the house within, to Bct there the ark of the covenant of the Lord. And the oracle in the forepart was twenty cubits in length, and twenty cubits in breadth, and twenty cubits in the height thereof: and he overlaid it with pure gold ; and so covered the altar which was (t/ cedar. So Solomon overlaid the house within with pure gold : and he made a partition by the chains of gold before the oracle ; and he overlaid it with gold. And the whole house he overlaid with gold, until he had finished all the house : also the whole altar that toas by the oracle he overlaid with gold. And within the oracle he made two cherubim of olive-tree, each ten cubits high. And five cubits was the one wing of the cherub, and five cubits the other wing of the cherub : fi'om the uttermost part of the one wing unto the uttermost part of the other were ten cubits. And the other cherub was ten cubits : both the cherubim were of one measure and one size. The height of the one cherub was ten cubits, and so was it of the other cherub. And he set the cherubim within the inner hcuse : and they stretched forth the wings of the cherubim, BO that the wing of the one touched the one wall, and the wing of the other cherub touched the other wall ; and their wings touched one another in the midst of the house. And he overlaid the chenibim with gold. And he carved all the walls of the house round about with carved figures of cherubim and palm-trees and open flowers, within and without. r-i^^ And the floor of the house he overlaid with goldj within and without. And for the entering of the oracle he made doora of olive-tree : the lintel a7id side posts we7'e a fifth part of the wall. The two doors also were o/*,olive-tree ; and he carved upon them carvings of cherubim and palm- trees and open flowers, and overlaid them with gold, and spread gold upon the cherubim, and upon the palm-trees. So also made he for the door of the temple posts q/* olive-tree, a fourth part of the wall. And the two doors were of fir-tree : the two leaves of the one door were folding, and the two leaves of the other door were folding. And he carved thereon cherubim and palm-trees and open flowers : and covered them with gold fitted upon the carved work. And he built the inner court with three rows of hewed stone, and a row of cedar beams. And king Solomon sent and fetched Hiram out of Tyre. He was a widow's son of the tribe of Naphtali, and hig father was a man of Tjtc, a worker in brass : and he was filled with wisdom, and understanding, and cunning to work all works in brass. And he came to king Solomon, and wrought all his work. For he cast two pillars of brass, of eighteen cubits high apiece : and a line of twelve cubits did compass either of them about. And he made two chapiters of molten brass, to set npon the tops of the pillars : the height of the one K ^J Ns ^...^P^^S^ ZJiLii :^^<^ 503 chapiter loas five cubits, and the height of the other chapiter was five cubits : And nets of checker work, and wi-eaths of chain work, for the chapiters which wei^e npon the top of the pillars ; seven for the one chapiter, and seven for the other cliapitcr. And he made the pillars, and two rows round about upo]i the one network, to cover the chapiters that were upon the top, with pomegranates : and so did he for the other chapiter. And the chapiters that were upon the top of the pillars were of lily work in the porch, four cubits. And the chapiters upon the two pillars had pome- granates also above, over against the belly which vxis by the network : and the pomegranates were two hundred in rows round about upon the other chapiter. And he set up the pillars in the porch of the tem- ple : and he set up the right pillar, and called the name thereof Jachin : and he set up the left pillar, and called the name thereof Boaz. And upon the top of the pillars loas lily work : so was the work of the pillars finished. And he made a molten sea, ten cubits from the one briui to the other : it ivas round all about, and his height was five cubits : and a line of thirty cubite did compass it round about. And under the brim of it round about there were knops compassing it, ten in a cubit, compassing the Bca round about : the knops wei^e cast in two rows, when it was cast. It stood upon twelve oxen, three looking toward the north, and three looking toward the west, and m m \^ m W m I I i m i g^^S^^^^I^^B^^ 504 three looking toward the south, and three looking to- ward the east : and the sea was set above upon thenij and all their hinder parts were inward. And it was a handbreadth thick, and the brim thereof was wrought like the brim of a cup, with flowers of lilies : it contained two thousand baths. And he made ten bases of brass, four cubits was the length of one base, and four cubits the breadth thereof, and three cubits the height of it. And the work of the hsiBes> was on this manner: they had borders, and the borders were between tie ledges : And on the borders that were between the led "•( s were lions, oxen, and cherubim : and upon the ledg'\^. there vms a base above : and beneath the lions and oxen we7'e certain additions made of thin work. And every base had four brazen wheels, and plateo of brass : and the four corners thereof had underset- ters: under the laver zvere undersetters molten, at the side of every addition. And the mouth of it within the chapiter and above was a cubit : but the mouth thereof was round a/7er the work of the base, a cubit and a half: and also upon the mouth of it we?'e gravings with their bor- dei-s, foursquare, not round. And under the borders were four wheels ; and the axletrees of the wheels we)'e joined to the base : and the height of a wheel was a cubit and half a cubit. And the work of the wheels was like the work of a chariot wheel : their axletrees, and their naves, and their felloes, and their spokes, were all molten. And there were four undersetters to the four corners \W. 1^ r //i,\\ 505 of one base : arid the undersetters were of tlie vei-y base itself. And in the top of the base was there a ronnd com- pass of half a cubit high : and on the top of the base the ledges thereof and the borders thereof were f-f the same. For on the plates of the ledges thereof, and on the borders thereof, he graved chej-nbim, lions, and palm- trees, according to the proportion of every one, and additions round about. After this manner he made the ten bases : all of them had one casting, one measure, and one size. Then made he ten lavers of brass: one laver con- tained forty baths : and every laver was four cubits : and upon every one of the ten bases one laver. And he put five bases on the right side of the house, and five on the left side of the house : and he set the sea on the right side of the house eastward, over against the south. And Hiram made the lavers, and the shovels, and the basins. So Iliram made an end of doing all the work that he made Idng Solomon for the house of the Lord : The two pillars, and the two bowls of the chapiters that were on the top of the two pillars; and the two net-works, to cover the two bowls of the chapiters which were upon the top of the pillars ; And four hundred pomegranates for the two net- works, even two rows of promegranates for one net- work, to cover the two bowls of the chapiters that were upon the pillars ; And the ten bases, and ten lavers on the basea ; And one sea, and twelve oxen under the sea ; VWk m. •Vi w <N> ^6 ■"■2^'. 506 And the pots, and the shovels, and the basins : and all tliese vessels, which Iliram made to kinp- Solo- mon for the house of the Lord, were of' briglit brass. lu the phiin of Jordan did. the king cast them, in the cUiy ground between Succoth and Zarthan. And Solomon left all the vessels itnweighed, be- cause tlicy were exceeding maiiy : neither was the weight of the brass found out. And Solomon made all the vessels that jpertained unto tlie house of the Lord: the altar of gold, and the table of gold, whereupon the shew-bread '\oas^ And the candlesticks of pure gold, five on the right side^ and five on the left, before the oracle, with the flowers, and the lamps, and the tongs f>/*gold, And the bowls, and the snuffers, and the basins, and the spoons, and the censei's of pure gold ; and the hinges o/gold, hoth for the doors of the inner house, the most holyj?Z(2C«, and for the doors of the house, to ivit, of the temple. So was ended all the work that king Solomon made for the house of the Lord. And Solonu/n In-ought in the things which David his father had dedicated ; even the silver, and the gold, and the vessels, did he put among the treasures of the house of the Lord. (1 Kings vii. 13 to 51.) Ill the foui'th year was the foundation of the house of the Lord laid, in the month Zif : And in the eleventh year, in the month T>nl, which is the eighth month, was the house finished through- out all the parts thereof, and accoi'ding to all the fashion of it. So was he seven years in building it (1 Kings vi. 37, 3S.) S^ '*a~i or THE VNIVERSfTY ^!^^^S^^^P^?^?5^S 509 DEDICATION OF THE TEMPLE. Then Solomon assembled the elders of Israel, and all the heads of the tribes, the chief of the fathers of the children of Israel, unto king Solomon in Jeru- salem, that they might bring up the ark of the cove- nant of the Lord out of the city of David, which is Zion. And all the men of Israel assembled themselves unto king Solomon at the feast in the month Ethanim, which is the seventh month. And all the elders of Israel came, and the priests took up the ark. And they brought up the ark of the Lord, and the tabernacle of the congregation, and all the holy ves- sels that were in the tabernacle, even those did the priests and the Levites bring up. And king Solomon, and all the congregation of Israel, that were assembled unto him, were with him before the ark, sacrificing sheep and oxen, that could not be told nor numbered for multitude. And the priests brought in the ark of the covenant of the Lord unto his place, into the oracle of the house, to the most holyj??ac6, eve?i under the wings of the cherubim. For the cherubim spread forth their two wings over the place of the ark, and the cherubim covered the ark and the staves thereof above. And they drew out the staves, that the ends of the staves were seen out in the holy place before the ora- cle, and they were not seen without : and there they are unto tliis day. M. m rSrT" ^:^^:^^'!''>t-x3iff?l 510 There was nothing in the ark save the two tal3lcg of stone, which Moses put there at Iloreh, Avlien tlio Lord made a covenant with the children of Israel, when they came out of the land of Eg}^)t. x\nd it came to pass, when the priests were come out of the holjj;Z«6'd, that the cloud filled the house of tlie Lord, So that the priests could not stand to minister because of the cloud : for the glory of the Lord had filled the house of the Lord. Then spake Solomon, The Lord said that he would dwell in the thick darkness. I have surely built thee a house to dwell in, a settled place for thee to abide in for ever. And the king turned his face about, and blessed all tne congregation of Israel : (and all the congrega- tion of Israel stood ;) And Solomon stood before the altar of the Lord in the presence of all the congregation of Israel, and spread forth his hands towards heaven : And he said, Lord God of Israel, there is no God like thee, in heaven above, or on earth beneath, who keepest covenant and mercy with thy servants that , walk before thee with all their heart: Who hast kept with thy servant David my father that thou promisedst him : thou spakest also with tliy mouth, and hast fulfilled it with thine hand, as it is this day. Therefore now, Lord God of Israel, keep with thy servant David my father that thou promisedst him, saying. There shall not fail thee a man in my sight to sit on the throne of Israel; so that thy children "^k m, \' W I' 4ii take liccd to tliolr way, that they walk before me aa thou hast M'alkcd before me. And now, O God of Israel, let thy word, I pray tlicc, be verified, which thou spakest unto thy ser- vant David my father. JBut will God indeed dwell on the earth? behold, the heaven and heaven of heavens cannot contain thee; liow nmch less this house that I have builded? And it Avas so, that when Solomon had made an end of jiraying all this prayer and supplication unto the Lord, lie arose from before the altar of the Lord, from kneeling on his knees with his hands sj)read up to heaven. And he stood, and blessed all the congregation of Israel Avith a loud voice, saying, Blessed he the Lord, that hath given rest unto his people Israel, according to all that he promised : there hath not failed one word of all his good promise, which he ])romised by the hand of Moses his servant. The Lord our God be with us, as he was with our fatiicra: let him not leave us, nor foj'sake us : That he may incline our hearts unto him, to walk m all his ways, and to keep his commandments, and his statutes, and his judgments, which he commanded our fathers. And let these my words, wherewith I have made supplication before the Lord, be nigh unto the Lord our God day and night, that he maintain the cause of his servant, and the cause of his peo])lc Israel at all times, as the matter shall require : That all the people of the earth may know that the Lord is God, and that there is none else. 1 SI W m -©' P^^^K 512 Let your heart, therefore be perfect ^vith the Lord our God, to walk in his statutes, and to keep his com- mandments, as at this day. And the king, and. all Israel with him, offered sacrifice before the Lord. And Solomon offered a sacrifice of peace-offerings, which he offered unto the Lard, two and twenty thousand oxen, and a hundred and twenty thousand sheep. So the king and all the children of Israel de- dicated the house of the Lord. And it cam'e to pass, when Solomon had finished the building of the house of the Lord, and the king's house, and all Solomon's desire which he was pleased to do, That the Lord appeared to Solomon the second time, as he had appeared unto him at Gibeon. And the Lord said unto him, I have heard thj" prayer and thy supplication, that thou hast made be- fore me : I have hallowed this house, which thou hast built, to put my name there for ever ; and mine eyes and mine heart shall be there perpetually. And if thou wilt walk before me, as David thy father walked, in integrity of heart, and in upright- ness, to do according to all that I have commanded thee, aiid wilt keep my statutes and my judgments ; Then I will establish the throne of thy kingdom upon Israel for ever, as I promised to David thy father, paying, There shall not fail thee a man upon the throne uf Israel. But if ye shall at all turn from following me, ye or your children, and will not keep my commandments and my statutes which I have set before you, but go and serve other gods, and worship them ; ^-u"" Then will I cut off Israel out of the land which 1 have given them ; and this house, which I have hal- lowed for my name, will I cast out of my siglit ; and Israel shall be a proverb and a by-word among all people : And at this house, wJiich is high, every one that passeth by it shall be astonished, and shall hiss ; and they shall say, why hath the Lord done thus unto this land, and to this house ? And they shall answer, because they forsook the Lord their God, who brought forth their fathers out of the land of Egypt, and have taken hold upon other gods, and have worshiped them, and served them: tlierefore hath the Lord brought npon them all this evil. And it came to pass at the end of twenty years, when Solomon had built the two houses, the house of the Lord, and the king's house, {J^ow Iliram the king of Tyre had furnished Solo- mon with, cedar-trees and fir-trees, and with gold, according to all his desire,) that then king Solomon gave Hiram twenty cities in the land of Galilee. And Iliram came out from Tyre to see the cities which Solomon had given him ; and they plea,sed him not. And he said, Wliat cities are these which thou hast given me, my brother? And he called them tlie land of Cabul unto this day. (1 Kings viii. 1 to 14. — 22 to 27.-54 to 64.— Also ix. 1 to 13.) \\ r in the tenth month, in the tenth day of the month t/iat Nebuchadnezzar king of Babylon came, lie, and all his host, against Jerusalem, and pitched against it ; and they built forts against it round about. And the city was besieged unto the eleventh year of king Zedekiah. And on the ninth dciT/ of the foin'th month the famine prevailed in the city, and there was no bread for the people of the land. And the city was broken up, and all the men of vKir fled by night by the way of the gate between two walls, which is by the king's garden : (now the Chal- dees were against the city round about :) and the king went the way toward the plain. And the army of the Chaldees pursued after the king, and overtook him in the plains of Jericho : and all liis army were scattered from him. So they took tlie king, and brought him up to the king of Babylon to Riblah ; and they gavQ judgment upon him. And they slew the sons of Zedekiah before his eyes, and put out the eyes of Zedekiah, and bound him with fetters of brass, and carried him to Babylon. And in the fifth month, on the seventh day of the month, which is the nineteenth year of. king Nebu- chadnezzar king of Babylon, came Nebuzar-adan, captain of the guard, a servant of the king of Baby Ion, unto Jerusalem : And he burnt the house of the Lord, and the king's house, and all the houses of Jerusalem, and every great man\ house burnt he with fire. And all the army of the Chaldees, that were with &I 519 the captain of the guard, brake down the waUs of Jerusalem round about. Now the rest of the people that were left in the city, and the fugitives that fell away to the king of Babylon, with the remnant of the multitude, did Ne- buzar-adan the captain of the guard carry away. But the captain of the guard left of the poor of the land to he vine-dressers and husbandmen. And the pillars of brass that were in the house of the Lord, and the bases, and the brazen sea that was in the house of the Lord, did the Chaldees break in pieces, and carried the brass of them to Babylon. And the pots, and the shovels, and the snuffers, and the spoons, and all the vessels of brass wherewith they ministered, took they away. And the firepans, and the bowls, and such thmgs as were of gold, in gold, and of silver, in silver, the captain of the guard took away. The two pillars, one sea, and the bases which Solo- mon had made for the house of the Lord ; the brass of all these vessels was without weight. The height of the one pillar was eighteen cubits, and the chapiter upon it was brass : and the height of the chapiter three cubits ; and the wreathen work, and pomegranates upon the chapiter round about, all of brass : and like unto these had the second pillar with wreathen work. And the captain of the guard took Seraiah the chief priest, and Zephaniah the second priest, and the three keepers of the door : And out of the city he took an officer that was set over the men of war, and five men of them that were /^ ^.^ in the king's presence, which were found in the city and the principal scribe of the host, which mustered the people of the land, and threescore men of the people of the land that were found in the city : And Nebuzar-adan captain of the guard took these, and brought them to the king of Babylon to Tiiblali : And the king of Babylon smote them, and slew them at Kiblah in the land of Ilamath. So Judah was carried away out of their land. (II. Kings, xxv 1 to 21.) EETUKN FKOM THE CATTIVITT AND COIklMENCEMENT OF BUILDING OF THE TEMPLE OF ZERUBBABEL. Now ill the first year of Cyrus king of Persia, that the word of the Lord by the mouth of Jeremiah might be fulfilled, the Lord stirred up the spirit of Cyrus king of Persia, tha.t he made a proclamation throughout all his kingdom, and j9ii^ it also in writing, saying, Thus saith Cyrus king of Persia, The Lord God of heaven hath given me all the kingdoms of the earth; and he hath charged me to build him a house at Jerusalem, which is in Judah. Wlio is there among you of all his people ? his God be with him, and let him go up to Jerusalem, which is in Judah, and build the house of the Lord God of Israel, (he is the God,) which is in Jerusalem. Then rose up the chief of the fathers of Judah and Benjamin, and the priests, and the Levites, with all them whose spirit God had raised, to go up to build the house of the Lord which is in Jerusalem. And all they that were about them strengthened 1^ i -'la m ^" Of THE UNIVERSITY OF their hands with vessels of silver, with gold, with goods, and with beasts, and with precious things, be- sides all that was willingly offered. Also Cyrus the king brought forth the vessels ol the house of the Lord, which Nebuchadnezzar bad brought forth out of Jerusalem, and had put them in the house of his gods : Even those did Cyrus king of Persia bring forth by the hand of Mithredath the treasurer, and num- bered them unto Sheshbazzar, the prince of Judah. And this is the number of them : thirty chargers of gold, a thousand chargers of silver, nine and twenty knives. Thirty basins of gold, silver basins of a second sort four hundred and ten, and other vessels a thousand. All the vessels of gold and of silver were five thousand and four hundred. All these did Shesii- bazzar bring up with them of the captivity that were brought up from Babylon unto Jerusalem. Now these are the children of the province that went up out of the captivity, of those which had been carried away, whom Nebuchadnezzar the king of Babylon had carried away unto Babylon, and came again unto Jerusalem and Judah, every one unto his city; Which came with Zerubbabel : Jeshua, Nehemiah, Soraiah, Reelaiah, Mordecai, Bilshan, Mizpar, Bigvai, Fvehura, Baanah. The number of the men of the people of Israel : Tlie whole congregation together was forty and two thousand three hundred and threescore. And some of the chief of the fathers, when thej "ry i ;V?' .■^•- rx^.t, k came to the house of the Lord wliich is at Jerusalem, offered freely for the house of God to set it up iu hi3 place : They gave after their ability unto the treasure ol the work threescore and one thousand drams of gold, and five thousand pounds of silver, and one hundred priests gannents. And when the seventh month was come, and the children of Israel were in the cities, the people gathered themselves together as one man to Jerusalem. Then stood up Jeshua the son of Jozadak, and his brethren the priests, and Zerubbabel the son of Sheal- tiel, and his brethren, and builded the altar of the God of Israel, to offer burnt offerings thereon, as it is written in the law of Moses the man of God. And they set the altar upon his bases ; for fear was apon them because of the people of those countries : and they offered burnt-offerings thei-eon unto the Lord, even burnt-offerin2;s mornino: and evenina;. They gave money also unto the masons, and to the carpenters; and meat, and drink, and oil, unto them of Zidon, and to them of Tyre, to briug cedar-trees from Lebanon to the sea of Joppa, according to the grant that they had of Cyrus king of Persia, Isow in the second year of tlieir comiug unto tlio house of God at Jerusalem, in the second month, be- gan Zerubbabel the son of Shealtiel, and Jeshua the Bon of Jozadak, and the remnant oi their bi'cthren the priests and the Levitcs, and all they that were come out of the captivity unto Jerusalem ; and appointed the Levitcs, from twenty years old and upward, to set for- ward the work of the house of the Lord. Of THE \ VNIVER8ITY 527 Now when the adversaries of Judah and Benjamin heard that the children of the captivity builded the temple unto the Lord God of Israel ; Eehum the chancellor and Shimshai the scribe m-ote a letter against Jerusalem to Artaxerxes the king in this sort : Then sent the king an answer unto Rehum the chancellor, and to Shimshai the scribe, and to the rest of their companions that dwell in Samaria, and unto the rest beyond the river, Peace, and at such a time. The letter which ye sent unto us hath been plainly read before me. Give ye now commandment to cause these men to cease, and that this city be not builded, until anotlier commandment shall be given from me. Now when the copy of king Artaxerxes' letter wa? read before Eehum, and Shimshai the scribe, and their companions, they went up in haste to Jerusalem unto the Jews, and made them to cease by force and power. Then ceased the work of the house of God which is at Jerusalem. So it ceased unto the second year of the reign of Darius king of Persia. Then the prophets, Haggai the prophet, and Zecha- riah the son of Iddo, prophesied unto the Jews that were in Judah and Jerusalem in the name of the God of Israel, even unto them. Then rose up Zerubbabel the son of Shealtiel, and Jeshua the son of Jozadak, and began to build tho house of God which is at Jerusalem: and with them were the prophets of God helping them. At the same time came to them Tatnai, governor on ^ ^U72t m^ this side the river, and Shethar-boznai, and their com- panions, and said thus unto them, AVlio hath com- manded you to build this house, and to make up this wall? Then said we unto them after this manner, Wliat ai'C the names of the men that make this building? But tlie eye of their God was upon the elders of the Jews, that they could not cause them to cease, till the matter came to Darius : and then they returned answer by letter concerning this matter. The copy of the letter that Tatnai, governor on this side the river, and Shethar-boznai, and his companions the Apharsachites, which were on this side the river, sent unto Darius the king: They sent a letter unto him, wherein was written thus ; Unto Darius the king, all peace. Be it known unto the king, that we went into the province of Judea, to the house of the great God, which is builded with great stones, and timber is laid in the walls, and this work goeth fast on, and pros- pereth in their hands. Then asked we those elders, and said unto them thus. Who commanded you to build this house, and to make up these walls? Wc asked their names also, to certify thee, that we might write the names of the men that were the chiel of tliem. And thus they returned us answer, saying, "We are the servants of the God of heaven and earth, and build the house that was builded these many years ago, which a great king of Israel builded and set up. But after that our fathers had provoked the God of ggas^pm^ lieaven nnto wrath, lie gave tliem into the hand of Nebucliadnczzar the king of Babylon, the Chaldean, who destroyed this house, and carried the people away into Babylon. But in the first year of Cyrus the king of Babylon, the same king Cyrus made a decree to build this house of God. And the vessels also of gold and silver of the house of God, which Nebuchadnezzar took out of the temple that was in Jerusalem, and brought them into the temple of Babylon, those did Cyrus the king take out of the temple of Babylon, and they were delivered unto one, whose name was Sheslibazzar, whom he had made governor ; And said unto him. Take these vessels, go, carry them into the temple that is in Jerusalem, and let the house of God be builded in his place. Now therefore, if it seem good to the king, let there be search made in the king's treasure house, which is there at Babylon, whether it be so, that a decree was made of Cyrus the king to build this house of God at Jerusalem, and let the king send his pleasure to us concerning this matter. Then Darius the king made a decree, and search was made in the hou?e of the rolls, where the treasures were laid up in Babylon. And there was found at Achmctha, in the palace that is in the province of the Modes, a roll, and therein loas a record thus written : In the first year of Cyrus the king, the same Cyras the king made a decree concerning the house of God at Jerusalem, Let the house be builded, the place mm I m IP nm :1 where they offered saci-ifices, and let the foundations thereof be strongly laid ; the height thereof threescore cubits, and the breadth thereof threescore cubits ; With three rows of great stones, and a row of new timber: and let the expenses be given out of the king's house: And also let the golden and silver vessels of the house of God, which Nebuchadnezzar took forth out of the temple which is at Jerusalem, and brought unto Babylon, be restored, and brought again unto the temple which is at Jerusalem, every one to his place, and place them, in the house of God.' Let the work of this house of God alone ; let the governor of the Jews and the elders of the Jews build this house of God in his place. (Ezra i. — ii. 1, 2, 64, 68, 69.— iii. 1, 3, 7, 8.— iv. 1, 8, 17, 18, 21, 23, 24. -vi. 1, 5, 7. 531 ^'f! OHEOlSrOLOGT OF REMARKABLE EVENTS IN THE HISTORY OF JERUSALEM. PROM THE EAKLIEST KECORDS OP THE. CITY TO 1844. ^>J( 1041 lop.s-s'; 1036-']^ 1033 1031 1025 First notice, and first accounts of Jerusalem. Josh. x-xv.-xviii. First siege. Judges i. 8, 21. Zion repeatedly besieged from this time till 1049, but without success. David takes the stronghold of the Jebusites, and makes Jerusalem his capital. 1 Chron. xi. David removes the ark from Kirjath-Jearim to the house of Obed Edom; thence to Jerusalem. 1 Chron. xiii. Victories over Moab, PhiHstia, Syria, and Edom. 1 Chron. xviii. David defeats Ammon and Syria. 1 Chron. xix. David's adultery ; siege of Rabbah ; murder of Uriah. 2 Sam. xi. Birth of Solomon. 2 Sam. xii. Absalom kills Amnon, and flies. 2 Sam. xiii. Absalom raisea a revolt against David, his father. 2 Sam. XV. f^ hi v^'t^'^ >32 David retreats to Mahanaim. Joab defeats and slays Absalom. David returns. 2 Sam. xix. The three years' famine. 2 Sam. xxi. Last wars with the Philistines. David subdues his enemies. David numbers Israel ; the plague. 1 Chron. xxi. David collects materials, and instructs Solomon as tc the building of the Temple. 1 Chron. xxii. Rebellion of Adonijah; Solomon ' proclaimed David'f successor ; Adonijah submits. 1 Kings 1. David's final charge to Solomon; directs Joab and Shimei to be put to death. 1 Kings ii. King Solomon's reign begins. Adonijah and Joab put to death. 1 Kings ii. Solomon collects men and materials for building the Temple. 1 Kings v. Solomon marries Pharaoh's daughter. 1 Kings iil Commences building the Temple. The Temple completed and dedicated. 2 Chron. v. The Queen of Sheba's visit to Solomon. 2 Chron. ix. The wives of Solomon seduce him into idolatry. Death of Solomon. 1 Kings xi. Rehoboam succeeds his father on the throne. 1 Kings xii. The revolt of the ten tribes, under Jeroboam, they form the kingdom of Israel, with their capital at Shechem. Judah and Benjamin remain with Rehoboam, anO form the kingdom of Judah. 1 Kings xii. Rehoboam fortifies his kingdom. 2 Chron. xi. Jerusalem plundered by Shishak. 1 Kings xiv. Death of Rehoboam; he is succeeded by Abijah. 1 Kings xiv. Abijah defeats Jeroboam in battle. 2 Chron. xiii. Death of Abijah ; he is succeeded by Asa. Asa puts away idolatry. 1 Kings xv. Asa defeats the Ethiopians. 2 Chron. xiv. Asa bribes Benhadad, king of SjTria, to attack Baasha 1 Kings XV. Death of Asa; succeeded by Jehoshaphat. 1 Kings xv W\t— s-'~fw ' \>-5rS ^^^—ijr Disastrous expedition to Ramoth. Jehoshaphat and Ahab unite in battle against the Syri ans. 2 Chron. xviii. Jehoshaphat joins Ahaziah in a commercial expedition • his ships wrecked ; refuses to join in another expedi tion. 1 Kings xxii. , 48, 49. Jehoram begins to reign with Jehoshaphat. Death of Jehoshaphat. Jehoram continues to reign. Ahaziah reigns as viceroy to his father. Death of Jehoram. Ahaziah joins Joram against HazaeL Ahaziah slain by Jehu. Athalia usurps the throne, and destroys all the seed royal except Joash, who is concealed by his aunt, Jehosheba. 2 Kings xi. Joash begins to reign ; Athalia slain. 2 Kings xi. Joash and the people fall into idolatry; Zachariah reproves them, and is slain in the Temple court. 2 Chron. xxiv. Joash slain by his servants ; Amaziah succeeds him on the throne. 2 Kings xii. Hires an army of Israelites to assist him against the Edomites; but, at the prophet's command, sends them back. Amaziah then defeats the Edomites and worships theii idols. Afterwards provokes the King of Israel to battle, and is taken prisoner by him. 2 Kings xiv. Amaziah slain ; succeeded by Azariah. 2 Kings xiv. Increases his army. Struck ^xith leprosy for invading the priest's office. Jotham made regent. 2 Kings xv. Death of Azariah ; Jotham king. Syria and Israel begiu to afflict Judah ; Jotham dies, and is succeeded by Ahaz. 2 Kings xvi. Judah devastated ; Jerusalem taken by Syria and Israel ; Ahaz, being hard pressed, hires Tiglath Pileser, the king of Assyria, against them. 2 Kinga xvi. Death of Ahaz ; succeeded by Hezekiah. Sennaclierib comes up against Judah, but is pacified by a tribute and returns. 2 Kings xviii. Sennacherib again invades the kingdom of Judah ; his army destroyed near Jerusalem by an angeL Isa. xxxvii. Death of Hezekiah ; succeeded by Manasseh. Jerusalem taken by the King of Assyria ; Manasseh carried away captive to Babylon. Death of Manasseh. 2 Chron. xxxiii. He is succeded by Amon. 2 Kings xxi. Amon slain by his servants ; succeeded by Josiah. 2 Chron. xxxiii. Josiah prepares to repair the Temple. 2 Kings xxii. A solemn celebration of the passover by Josiah. 2 Kings xxiii. In attempting to stop the King of Egypt from crossing his territory, Josiah is slain in battle. 2 Chron. xxxv. Jehoahaz succeeds him ; reigns three months, then de- posed by Pharaoh Necho, and taken to Egypt ; Jehoi- aldm succeeds him. 2 Kings xxiii. Nebuchadnezzar takes Jerusalem ; puts Jehoiakim in fetters ; afterwards releasing him, makes him tribu- tary; spoils the Temple. 2 Kings xxiv. 2 Chron. xxxvi. Orders the master of his eunuchs to select and send to Babylon some of the royal family and nobility to stand in the king's palace. Daniel, Hananiah, Mishael, Azariah, Shadrach, Mesh- ach, and Abednego are selected, and taken there. Dan. i. Death of Jehoiakim ; succeeded by Jehoiachin. Jerus.alem again taken by Nebuchadnezzar ; Jehoiachin, with many of his subjects, carried to Babylon ; Zede kiah made king. 2 Kings xxiv. ; Jer. 52 : 1, 2 ; 24. Zedekiah rebels ; Nebuchadnezzar lays siege to Jerusa- lem for the third time. 2 Bangs xxv. The Chaldeans raise the siege to march against the approaching Egyptian army. Jer. xxxviL ''^^X ^h\ t. 535 536 535 534 520 516 445 413 373 332 330 300 385 216 200 199 198 176 170 105 161 in The Chaldeans return ; Jerusalem taken ; the Temple burnt, and the people carried away captive ; Gedaliah appointed governor; Ishmael slays Gedaliah. 2 Kings XXV. Decree of Cyrus for rebuilding the Temple, and resto- ration of the Jews. 2 Chron. xxxvi. Zerubbabel commences to build the second Temple. Ezra iu. The work on the Temple interrupted by the Samari- tans. Ezra iv. The buildirig of the Temple resumed. Hag. i. Dedication of the second Temple . Ez. vi. Nehemiah receives a commission from Artaxerxes to visit Jerusalem and rebuild the wall ; the wall com- pleted and dedicated. Neh. ii. Jehoiada high -priest. Johanan high-priest. Alexander visits Jerusalem ; plants Jews in Alexandria. Ptolemy Lagus captures Jerusalem ; plants Jews in Alexandria and Cyrene. Simon the Just high-priest. Version of the Seventy commenced, at Alexandria. Ptolemy Philopater prevented from entering the Holy of Holies ; he attempts to destroy the Jews at Alex- andria, but is miraculously prevented. The sect of the Sadducees founded. Scopas, an Egyptian general, recovers Jerusalem to the King of Egypt. Antiochus regains Judea. Heliodorus attempts to plunder the Temple, but is pre- vented by an angel. Antiochus Epiphanes takes Jerusalem, and slays 40,000 persons ; he also profanes the Temple. Judas Maccabaeus purifies the Temple, and institutes the feast of dedication. Judas Maccabaeus slain ; succeeded by his brother Johnathan. Johnathan murdered by T3T)hon ; is succeeded by Simon, his brother, who is made ruler by Demu- trius. ■ im; mw Simon murdered ; succeeded by his son, John Hyr- canus. John Ilj'rcanus throws off the Syrian yoke, and estab- lishes his independence ; he destroys the Temple on Mt. Gerizim. Aristobulus succeeds his father Hyrcanus. Alexander Jannreus succeeds his brother Aristobulus. Janua;us dies ; is succeeded by Alexandra, his wife, who makes her son Hyrcanus high-priest. Death of Alexandra ; is succeeded by Hyrcanus, who is forced to yield the crown to his younger brother Aristobulus. Pompey the Great reduces Syria to a Roman province ; Hyrcanus endeavors to regain the crown. He and his brother appeal to Pompey, who decides for Hyrcanus ; Pompey takes Jerusalem. Aiistobulus and his son raise disturbances, and are vanquished by GaBinius, the Roman governor oi Syria. Crassus jjlunders the Temple. Julius Ciesar appoints Antipater procurator of Judea ; who makes his son Herod governor of Galilee, and Phasael of Jemsalem. Walls of Jerusalem rebuilt. Antipater poisoned ; Herod and Phasael revenge his death. Jerusalem taken by the Parthians, who slay Phasael, and place Antigonus upon the throne ; Herod flies to Rome, and is appointed King of Judea. Herod takes Jerusalem, beheads Antigonus, and ia established King of Judea ; he makes Aristobulus, brother of his wife Mariamne, high-priest, but aftei- wards murders him. Herod begins to rebuild and enlarge the Temple. Nativity op Jesus Christ. Jesus \'isits Jerusalem. Pilate sent from Rome as Governor of Judea. John the Baptist begins his ministry. Jesus baptized by John. ^r'-^''»»5T ISM^& S-^^ES^i^x^ h^^ 537 -^/n m 70 135 32G 3C2 453 029 1043 1099 The craciSxion. Ananias and SajAphira stmck dead- Stephen stoned, and the church persecuted. Herod Agrippa made King of Judea. James beheaded by Herod ; liberation of Peter by an angel. Paul sent a prisoner to Rome, The Jewish war begins; siege of Jerusalem by tho Romans. Jerusalem besieged and taken by Titus; 1,100,000 Jews perish by the sword, fire, famine, and cruci- fixion, besides 97,000 who were sold as slaves. Jerusalem razed to its foundations. John banished to the Isle of Patmos by Domitian. John writes the Revelation. John liberated. John, the last surviving Apostle, dies. The Jews revolt, and become masters of Jeru- salem. Jerusalem retaken by the Romans, The Empress Helena visits Jerusalem, and builds two churches. The attemjit to lay the foundation of another Tem- ple. Jenisalem made an independent patriarchate. The Emperor Justinian founded at Jerusalem a splen- did church in honor of the Virgin. The Persian army, under Chosroes, takes Jeru- salem, Chosroes defeated by Heraclius ; the city recovered by the Greeks. Jerusalem taken by the Khalif Omar ; commencement of the reign of Mohammedanism. Jerusalem talcen by Ahmed, a Turkish sovereign of EgJTt. Ortok made ruler of the city by Tutush. The crusaders under Godfrey Bouillon take the city ; tho conqueror made kiug ; is succeeded by his brother Baldwin, Baldwin dies. ii itl '^. M \'<-y^^, ^i. (9 m i>/A^ COUESE A^^D DISTANCE PROM THE CENTRB OF THE CITY OF JEEUSALEM TO THE FOLLOWING PLACES. ^^ DISTASCE, VXBT NEAR.* J.Q COUnSE. GEO. MILES. Askelon W.S.AV. 34 Acre N.N.W. 80 Antiocli N. byW. 300 Bethany E.S.E. 2 Bethleliem S. 4 Beeroth ..N. 7 Bethel N. 10 Beersheba S.S.W. 40 Bethsaida N. by E. 85 Baalbek N.N.E. 195 Babylon E.X.E. 530 Air-line. Chorazin. N. by E. 80 Capernaum N. by E. 78 Cajsarea N.N.W. 66 Via Joppa. Dead Sea S.E 12 Damascus. . ...... N.N.E. 150 Ephesus N.W. 600 Via Joppa, and Medl- Gaza S.W. 45 terranean. Gadara N.N.E. 05 Gebal N. by E. 180 Via Joppa. Hebron S. byW. 17 Hamath N.N.E. 250 * As but few of t^ese roads or routes have ever been Burveyed, the exact dis- tances cannot be Riven. , ^IM DISTANCB, TO COUnSE. GEO. MLLEd. Jericho E.N.E. 13 Joppa N. W. 35 Kiijath- Jearini N. W. 9 Lydda N.W. 25 Nazarcti N. G7 Nine veil N.E. 550 Air-line Palmyra N. E. 245 Rabbath E.X.E. 43 Shilob N. byE. 18 Shechem N. 29 Succoth .N.E. 40 Air-line. Samaria N. by "W. 40 Sidon N. 145 Sard is N. by W. GOO Via Joppa and Med, Shusban E. 8C0 Air-line. Tiberias N. by E, G8 Tarsus N. 385 Via Joppa and Med. SOURCES OF THE JORDAN. Paneas ..N.X.E. 120 Hasbeiya N.N.E. 135 MOUNTAINS. Ararat N.E. 775 Lebanon Summit. . ..N. by E. 195 Harbor from wbicli tlio cedar timber was floated to Joppa N. by W. 1G5 Via Joppti (Jarmel N. W. G8 Air-liae, Gilboa N. byE. 50 Gerizira N.E. 35 Ilcrmon N.N.E. 118 Pisgah E. 25 Ramoth Gilead N.E. 86 Tabor N. by E. 60 Hor S. byE. 100 Uoreb S. by W. 225 ^^^^^^^s List of Ihtekesting A2^d Valuable Works on the Holy Land. Vn cB Rotinson. Piesearches, 3 vols. Maps $10 00 Stnnley. Bgyiit and Palestine 7 00 Thompson, The Land and the Book, 2 vols. Maps 5 00 Tristram. Natural History of Palestine 5 00 " The Land of Israel 12 00 The Bible, Atlas of. Maps and plans 13 00 Van D. Velde's Map of Palestine 13 00 Recovery of Jerusalem — Ordnance Survey. By Captain WUson, R.E 3 50 Barclay, Rev. T. J. City of the Great King* 10 00 Rawson, A. L. Bible Hand-Book 3 00 Bur, N. C. ,D.D. Sacred History and Geogi-aphy of Palestine 3 00 Kitto. Cyclopedia of Biblical Literature, 3 vols. Engi-av- ings ^51 00 (Abridged) 7 00 McLeod, Norman. Eastward. Engravings 1 2 00 Layard, A. H. Nineveh and its Remains, 2 vols. 8vo. En- gravings 18 00 The Publishers will forward any of the above works on receipt of its price, * Dr. Barclay was for many years Resident Missionaiy at Jenisa- lem, during which time he made a thorough exploration of the city and surrounding country, the results of which may be found in his vahiable work. Prof. Rawson has also had the benefit of several years' residence in Jerusalem and vicinity, and as Christians are excluded from the sacred places of the Mohammedans, he adopted the dress and customs of the Arabs, thus for the time becoming one of them — joining a lodge of Eastern Dervishes, visiting, as a Jlohammedan pilgrim, their holy places, taking notes, and making sketches of places and objects of interest that could not otherwise have been reached . n CATALOGUE REDDING 8l CO., PUliLISUERS OF Standard Masonic Works, 757 Broad-may, New York. o Practical Monitor and Compend of Masonic Law and Jurisprudence. * Containing the Blonitorial instructions pertaining to the first three degrees, unincumbered with mat- ter not practised %\'ith the Work, everything not used in con- nection with the Work and Lectures being excluded, while the Monitorial that is practised is arranged in the exact order in which it occurs in the Ritual. Followed by a practical Com- pend of Masonic Law and Jurisprudence, with the decisions of the different Grand Lodges in this country on all important points and questions. To officers and members who desire i Manual in which the infonnation is readily accessible, this work will commend itself. By M. Wolcott Redding. Embellished with a beautiful lithograph in colors, and 21 full- page engravings. Morocco Tuck, f uU gilt |1 35 Webb's Freemasons' Monitor. Miniature edition Cloth %Q 1o Cross's Masonic Text-Book. Containing Monitorial Instructions in the Degrees, from Entered Apprentice to Knights Templar, inclusive. Illustrated with 100 engra\'ings 33mo, full gilt $1 50 Moore's Pocket Trestle Board. 32mo $0 75 Maekey's Masonic Ritualist; or. Monitorial Instruc- tions from Entered Apprenticeship to Select Master. 32m o tuck. Price $1 60 General Abiman Rezon. Containing Monitorial In- structions in the Degrees of Entered Apprentice, Fellow- Craft, and Master Mason ; together with the Ceremonies of Consecration and Dedication of New Lodges, and Masonic Halls, Installation of Grand and Subordinate Officers, Burial Services, Regulations for Processions. To which are added a Rttcal for a Lodge of Sorrow, and the Ceremonies of Consecrating Masonic Cemeteries. By Daniel Sickels, 33d. Embellished with nearly 300 Engravings and Portrait of the Author. Bound in fine Cloth — extra — large 12mo. $2 00 • ; #g^l \/7 tr- IE^° Ecce Orient i. A complete Instructor for Officers and Members. Containing the \Vork, Lectures, and Monitorial of the first three degrees, including everything in its order pertaining to each degree — Except the secrets of Masonry. The whole given by a system and arrangement which renaers it intdligible only to the initiated. There are separate editions of this and of the following Rituals ; each edition containing the standard work of a par- ticular State. They have all been critically revised by competent authority — and are strictly in accordance with the Standard Work and Lectures — making a work that no practical member of the order will be without after he has examined it. Morocco Tuck, full gilt $3 50 The need of some means of refreshing and aiding the memory on the Ritual, outside of the Lodge, is universally felt among the Fraternity, and for the want of an authentic work on this subject, members are availing themselves of any means of information that comes within their reach — hence the exten- sive and increasing sale of several open and highly erroneous exposes, that are sold alike to the public at large and to the Fraternity. To arrest this evil, and meet the demand for a work of this nature that is both accurate and legitimate, this volume has been prepared. This work is furnished to Masons only. Ca'ba-la. A complete Instructor for officers and members of the Chapter. Arranged on a plan similar to Ecce Orienti, , and in exact accordance with the Standard work and Lectures. Intelligible only to R. A. Masons. Morocco Tuck, scarlet edges $3 50 This work is sold to members of the Chapter only. Guide to the Chapter; containing the Degrees of Mark Master, Past Master, Most Excellent Master, and Royal Arch ; together with the Order of High-Priesthood, etc. 12mo. Cloth ^1 50 Royal Arch Companion, containing Monitorial In- structions in the Degrees of Mark Master, Past Master, Most Excellent Master, Royal Arch and Order of High -Priesthood; together with the ceremonies of Constituting and Dedicating Chapters, etc. By Jackson H. Chase, 33°. Cloth $1 00 Book of Marks. For Royal Arch Chapters. 8vo, half Turkey Morocco. 100 Marks $3 50 150 Marks 4 00 200 Marks 4 50 11 W) m dotiiidil, ai\tl dorqn\^r\cleiy. NOW READY, K.lli;gr1it§ of tiie Orient. Containing the Ritual of the Commaudery, arranged in accordance with the standard for- mu'a. Price $3 50 Sold only to Kts. Templars. CoUMCil of tlie Orient. Containing the work of the Council dogs. Price $3 00 Tlie above two woi'ks are on a xilan similar to Cabala. Council Monitor, the Text-book of Cryptic Masonry; containing Instructions in the Degrees of Royal Master. Select Master, and Super-Excellent Master. Together with the Ceremonies of Installing the Offi -ers. Constituting and Dedi- cating a Council, and Installing the Officers of a Grand Council. By Jackson H. Chase, 33^ $1 00 Book of the Commandery; a Monitor for the Orders of Masonic Knigh'hood ; containing Burial Service ; and improved System of Tactics and Drill ; the Ceremonies of Installation for Grand and Subordinate Commanderies ; a List of the Or'' ers of Knighthood throughout the World ; and the Forms of Complaint and Appeal. Hj John W. Sr.MONS, P. G. M. Flexible Cover, full gilt fO 75 Tuck, full gilt 1 00 Knights Templars' Tactics and Drill, for the use of Commanderies, and the Burial Service of the Order of Masonic Knighthood. Prepared by Sir Ouhin Welch, Past Grand Commander. Elegantly Illustrated. Fine tinted paper. Price ^1 50 A. and A. Scottish Rite Manuals. Cunningham's Manual of the Ancient and Accepted Rite. With the Re- vised Constitution of the Order. By Wm. M, Cunningham. A.M. 273 pages. 12mo., cloth $3 00 The Book of the Ancient and Accepted Scot- tish Rite of Freemasonry; containing Instructions in all the Degrees from the Third to the Thirty-third and last degree of the Rite, together ^vith Ceremonies of Inauguration, In- stitution, Installation, Grand Visitations, Refections, Lodges of Sorrow, Adoption, Constitutions, General Regulations, Calendar, &c. By Charles T. McClknachan, 3o°. Em- Lellished vAth upwards of 300 finely-executed engravings, nearly all of which are froin original designs. Cloth, gilt, §5 00 Phage's Diaest of Masonic Law. A complete ''S?d;1>f Il5a?ations and Decision "pon questions of Mason.o Turisorudence. Containing a compend or digest ol lo.iy SanTconstitutionsand Regulations -including every Grand Lod-e in America, and those of England Ireland, and Scot- landVand comprising over four thousand decisions, &c ^ 12mo, 464 pages, cloth *~' Loekwood's Masonic Law and Practice.. $1 00 Text-Book of Masonic J^^^i^Pr^^f^,^^- ..o^J ALBERT G. Mackey, M.D. Newly revised. Cloth. . ..f- 7o TvrP,c:nnic Trials. A Treatise upon the Law and Practice ofMasonicTriafs in the Lodge, Chapter, and Commandery ; with Forms and Precedents. Containing also the Constitu- Sn Sd Edkts of the general Grand Bodies; the Ancient Tandrntrks, Ancient Constitution a-d Regulatio^; and an Appendix of General Forms^ By HE^RY M. ^cKJic, P^M-^ Gmnd Lecturer of Michigan, K. T. , etc. Cloth, gilt, Revelled Boards Masonic Code of the State of New ^ork, con- tain?n" Const^tnSons and General Regulations of the Grand Lod °e°of New York, and the resolutions and Decisions now in force also a standard form of By-Laws for Subordinate i^iSs;' ^it^ the Forms and Course of Procedure^ o^ Masonic Trials, etc. Cloth Mackev's Lexicon of Freemasonry. Bevised edftfon^^with Portrait of the Author, i vol. 12mo, eloth, gilt. Price * Findell's History of Freemasonry. 1 ^^\^^^^ Cloth History of Masonic Persecutions. By Geokcjk Oliver, D.D. One vol. 12mo, cloth $- ^ Origin and Early History of Freemasonry By G W Steenbrenner. Fnce * History or the Ancient and Accepted ScoUish Rite. By FoLGER. Cloth "»" Mistorical Landmarks and other eTidences of Free- lrListoricciii_.cc Pract cal Lectures, with masonry explamed ma series oi ^^^^^ ^ copious Notes. By George ^J^iy-"' ^■t'.-, ,5- r^ tt °i* duodecimo-with Poiti-ait of Author. ^^^^^'^ ^^l^;^' ^7 ^ morocco .. Mistorv of Initiation, in Twelve Lectures, comprising "a D?taUed Account of the Rites and Ceremonies Doctrines Ld Spline of the Secret and Mysterious Instjiutions of the Ancient World. By Geo. Oliver,*. D. Cloth, $l..>a Half Morocco *" ^ % Manual of the Order of the Eastern Star, contaiiiiEg Symbols, Scriptural Illustrations, Lectures, etc., adapted to the American system of Adoptive Masonry. By RoBiciiT Macoy, National Gra.nd Secretary, Beautifully Illustrated. Gilt Edges and Illuminated Cover $1 00 Washinqton and his Masonic Compeers. T!y Sidney Hayden, Past Master of Rural Amity Lodge, No. 70 Pennsylvania. lUiistrated with a copy of a Masonic Portaib of Washington, painted from Ufe, never before pub- lished, and numerous other engravings. Cloth — uniform Btyle, 13.50. Cloth— full gilt— gilt edges $3 50 Ancient Constitutions of Freemasons. By James Andekson. Verbatim copy of the original edition of 1723, Cloth, $1.00. Half morocco $2 00 Use and Abuse of Freemasonry. A work of the greatest utility to the Brethren of the Society, to man- kind in general, and to the ladies in particular. Bv Capt. Geo. Smith. Cloth, $1.25. Half Morocco '. , $3 50 Traditions of Freemasonry and its Coincidence with the Ancient Mysteries. By A. T. C. PlEUSON, 33d, Past Grand Master, Past Grand High Priest, etc. Illustrated. Large 12mo. Cloth $3 00 Signs and Symbols, Illustrated and Explained in a Course of Twelve Lectures on Freemasonry. By Geo. Oliver, D.D. Cloth, $1.50. Half Morocco $3 50 A Comparison of Egyptian Symbols with those of the Hebrews. By Fredekick Portal. Trans- lated from the French, by JoiiN W. Simons. Illus- trated with some fifty cuts, representing the Ancient Sym- bols, and accompanied with extended explanations, which render it very entertaining and instructive. Contents : Principles of Symbology ; Application to Egyptian Symbols, Symbol of Colors, Symbol of the Bible, etc. Cloth, $1.00. Half Morocco $3 00 Obituary Rites of Freemasonry; containing the Burial Ceremonies and the Ritual for a Lodge of Sorrow. 50 cts. each; or per 100 $30 00 Signet of King Solomon; or, the Freemason's Daughter. By AuG. C. L. Arnold, LL.D. Splendidly Illustrated $1 35 Revelations of a Square, exhibiting a graphic dis- play of the Sayings and Doings of Eminent, Free ani Accepted Masons, from the Revival in 1717. by Dr. Dasaguliers to the Reunion in 1813. By George Oliver, D.D. Royal duodecimo. Cloth*$1.50. Half Morrocco $3 50 "XT UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY BERKELEY Return to desk from which borrowed. This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. Iit^» — 20Sep'6-G^ REC'D L.O SEP 6 ^1^62 w 1 7 197S li 'REC.CIB. MARl7'i$ LD 21-100m-9,'48(B399sl6)476 YD 09547: / ^c 7 /y^ T^^h-^ A /