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A Concise Manual of Architecture, Sculpture, and Painting. Fourth Thotisand. ft. THE CLASSICS FOR THE MILLION. Nineteetith Thousand. 3s. td. PLOTS OF SOME OF THE MOST FAMOUS OLD ENGLISH PLAYS. 2S.64L Fiontispicc Beverley Minster, N.W. BEVERLEY AND ITS MINSTER BY THE REV. CANON NOLLOTH, D.D. WITH SIX ILLUSTRATIONS LONDON: GEORGE ALLEN & UNWIN LTD. RUSKIN HOUSE +o MUSEUM STREET W.C. Reprinted from "MEMORIALS OF OLD YORKSHIRE First published . igio Reprinted August igi$ (All rights reserved) B/ 5/ 1:f BEVERLEY AND ITS MINSTER NESTLING at the foot of the Wolds, some eight miles to the north of its comparatively modern neighbour, Kingston-upon-Hull, lies the ancient capital of the East Riding of Yorkshire. Picturesque enough it looks as 3'ou approach it by the York road, with the park-like expanse of Westwood in the foreground and the two great churches towering high above the red-tiled roofs below. Scarcely less beautiful is the entrance into Beverley by the New Walk, with its noble trees and quaint old Sessions House ; soon, passing under the North Bar (an embattled gateway of the early fifteenth century), a street vista which few towns can rival is presented to the view. On the left, the graceful turrets and open- work battlements of St. Mary's Church are seen through the trees ; in the middle distance rises the eighteenth- century Market Cross, which doubtless replaced a much finer Gothic structure ; and, finally, the prospect is closed by the lofty fretted towers of the Minster. Other notable buildings are, the Guildhall, or (as it was anciently termed) the Hans House, the new East Riding County Hall, the Corn Exchange, the remains of the Dominican Friary, and the new Free Library, for which the borough is indebted to the munificence of a former townsman. The history of Beverley is, to a great extent, the history of its Minster. Enslirining the memory of a great person- ality, " the most venerated of all the northern saints except St. Cuthbert," pilgrims from all parts of England came to pay their devotions at the tomb of St. John of Beverley. His standard was borne before the army on many a battle- field ; and kings and queens, from the days of Athelstan 3 iJ72269 4 MEMORIALS OF OLD YORKSHIRE onward to those of Henry VI., would come to Beverley to im- plore the intercession of the saint before the commencement of a campaign, or to give thanks for victory at its close. As a consequence, Beverley increased rapidly in size and importance until it became one of the principal towns of England, a position it occupied till the fifteenth century. In 1377, according to the Poll-Tax returns, Beverley stood eleventh in point of population, although even then it had begun to decay. Its population at the present time is about 15,300. The date of the original foundation of Beverley Minster is lost in the obscurity of remote antiquity. Simon Russell, clerk to the Provost of Beverley, who, in 141 o, compiled the celebrated Provost's Book (lately restored to the Minster, and preserved among its treasures), declares that " Beverley Minster was built in the days of Lucius, son of Coil, King of Britain, in the year of Our Lord, 157." For Simon Russell was a man who scorned to " spoil his ship for a ha'porth of tar." But I see no reason for doubting the assertion of the Venerable Bede (who was ordained deacon and priest by St. John of Beverley, and wrote his bio- graphy), that the church on this spot was rebuilt by that saint, the fourth Archbishop of York of the Saxon line, who first visited Beverley about a.d. 690. Mv. A. F. Leach, to whose learning and research we are so deeply indebted for a flood of light upon the early annals of Beverley, disputes this, however, and devotes much pains and in- genuity to the attempt to prove that King Athelstan was the real founder of the Minster, and that there is no reason for identifying Bede's ** Inderawuda " (In the wood of Deira) with Beverley (the "Beaver Meadow"). Surely the most likely explanation of the two names is that, first of all, the church of St. John was built on a hill " In Deira Wood " ; for recent excavations have shown that the approach through Highgate has been raised many feet, although there is still a flight of steps to the west door. Then a town sprang up in the '* Beaver Meadow " BEVERLEY AND ITS MINSTER 5 below, and the Church of St. Nicholas was built there. In the northern edition of the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle it is re- corded : "a.d. 721. . . . This year died the holy Bishop John. . . . His body rests in Beverley (Beoforlic)." The real difficulty to be encountered in doubting the identity of Beverley Minster with Bede's church " In Deira Wood" is this. St. John of Beverley died in 721. Athelstan was crowned in 925. Is it possible that, in 200 years, the great archbishop and the abbey which he founded, and in which he was buried, should have become so utterly forgotten that no one knew where the abbey was ? In this, as well as in certain higher matters, the difficulties of unbelief are surely greater than the diffi- culties of faith. In many an ancient chronicle we read of the learning, the holiness, the missionary labours, the miracles of the sainted archbishop, whose dust still lies in the Minster's eastern nave, marked by no other monument than the Gothic inscription in the vault above : " Beverlacesis Beati Johafns subtus in theca ponuntur ossa." ' St. John of Beverley is said to have been born of a noble Saxon family at Harpham-on-the-Wolds, some eighteen miles from Beverley, about a.d. 640. His parents had doubt- less embraced the faith of Christ, for they sent the boy to the far-famed school of Canterbury, presided over by Hadrian, the friend and fellow-labourer of Archbishop Theodore, who was a native (like that earlier and greatest missionary, St. Paul) of Tarsus in Cilicia. Hadrian the African, the fellow-countryman of Tertullian and Cyprian and St. Augustine of Hippo, has been described as the parent of sanctified learning in the English Church. " He regarded all knowledge as God's gift to man, and strove to open the doors of all its chambers to his scholars. ' " In a coffer beneath are laid the bones of the Blessed John of Beverley." Round the western boss of the nave vault was discovered, in 1867, another inscription, which has also been restored: " Beverlacensis Johannes Sanctus Nobilisimoe hujus Ecclesire Fundator " ("St. John of Beverley, Founder of this most noble Church "). * 6 MEMORIALS OF OLD YORKSHIRE Not only the Sacred Scriptures and theology, but arith- metic, astronomy, music, and even medicine, were pre- sented to the lads who flowed to Canterbury from all parts of England, as worthy subjects of intellectual labour. Bede, with his multifarious learning, so wide, and, for the time, so accurate, shows at their best the results of this wise, sympathetic teaching, derived, through his master, John, from these two great leaders of the Church in our land." ^ From Canterbury the future archbishop passed to the famous Monastery of Whitby, to be trained by the great Abbess Hilda, truly a " Mother in Israel." No fewer than five of her scholars, Bede informs us, of whom John was the most celebrated, but " all of them persons of signal worth and holiness," became bishops of various sees. On Sunday, August 25, 687, John was consecrated Bishop of Hexham. In 706 he was translated to York. Of the details of his episcopate Bede tells us little. He travelled through his diocese, preaching from his open Bible (parts of which he translated), rich in goodness, full of kindness and sympathy for the band of disciples by whom he was surrounded, and whom he was training for evangelistic work. Of these, Bede became the most famous ; while . Berctun (or Brithunus) and Winwald ^ became the first two Abbots of Beverley, and Herebald, ' See an interesting paper by the late Canon Venables, " St. John of Beverley, his Miracles and his Minster." ^ Gent and other writers (as Poulson, Beverlac, p. 31) speak of St. Brithunus and St. Winwald. I am unable to find any evidence of their canonisation, except that there is an interesting entry in the Chapter Act Book, dated November 28, 1306, giving the copy of a document which had been discovered in the shrine of St. Berchthun (Sancti Berethuni), stating that the relics had been wrapped in linen, with herbs fragrant of the sweetest odour, by Odo, priest, and Alfgar, deacon. Canon William of Haxby rebuilt the shrine at his own expense. There was a chapel under the invocation of St. " Winworth " (who was probably the same person as St. Winwald), somewhere in Cleveland, and presumably in the parish of Skelton. It was desecrated at the Reformation, and was granted, with other like spoil {Pat. Roll., 28 Eliz., Part xiv., No. 3) to John Awbrey and John Ratclife, gentle- men, of London (see Yorkshire Archceological Journal, vol. xx. , p. 352). Baring-Gould gives the festival of St. Brithunus on May 15th. Stanton styles both Abbots Brithunus and Winwald, saints, and St. Brithunus is included in the lists of the Bollandists. BEVERLEY AND ITS MINSTER 7 Abbot of Tynemouth. We are told minutely of the manner in which St. John taught a dumb youth to speak, from which circumstance, the " Guild of St. John of Beverley," for the benefit of the deaf and dumb, has chosen him for its patron, and has presented his statue, and a beautiful memorial window, to the Minster where he rests. Here, in a.d. 718, when, worn out by age, he resigned his bishopric, the saint retired to end his days, watched over by the faithful Brithunus, and dying on May 7, 721, was buried in St. Peter's Chapel.' In 1037, he received canonisation from Benedict IX., and Arch- bishop Aelfric " translated " his remains from the carved feretory of wood in which they had rested to a more sumptuous shrine, sparkling with gold and precious stones. This probably came to grief in the great fire of 1188, five years after which search was made for his bones, and they were discovered. Another magnificent feretory of silver gilt, adorned with tabernacle work, niches, and small images was procured by the provost and canons early in the thirteenth century, and Mr. Leach has dis- covered the original contract between the Chapter of Beverley and Roger of Faringdon, goldsmith. It is dated September 14, 1292, and the surety was Roger's employer (and probably father or uncle, notwithstanding the variation in the spelling), William Farendon, gold- smith, citizen of London. He was the alderman who gave his name to the city ward of Farringdon. It seems to have been completed for the dedication of the high altar on June 21, 1308. Like the shrine of St. Alban in that abbey, it probably rested in the chapel behind the high altar, and during the Rogation days it was carried in procession through the town to the daughter churches, when all the Trades Guilds built wooden castles in the streets, and having seen it pass sitting in their best liveries in the morning, on its ' The word "porticus" in the Chronicle probably means the canopy or baldacchino of the altar. 8 MEMORIALS OF OLD YORKSHIRE return in the afternoon joined in the procession, and rode after it.^ The relics were probably hidden at the dissolution, but in 1604, on digging a grave, they were found in a case of lead ; and again brought to light on the repaving of the nave in 1736. With the remains was found a small dagger, probably the pledge left by Athelstan on the altar when he visited the Minster in 933 to invoke the assistance of St. John, before the battle of Brunanburgh. After this victory, which made Athelstan practically the first King of England, he endowed the Minster with wide lands, and altered the foundation to a college of secular canons. The event is commemorated by an old painting in the south transept, representing the king in the act of giving to Beverley Minster (personified by St. John) its first charter, on which are the words in old English characters : — "Als fre make I the As hert may thenk Or eyhe may se." William the Conqueror turned aside from the lands of the Minster when he devastated the wolds and valleys of Yorkshire, and broke up his camp and removed it far away lest he should disturb " the peace of St. John." Edward I. more than once laid his offerings on the tomb of St. John, and carried his banner with him on his Scottish campaign. Henry IV. worshipped here, and confirmed the charters of Beverley, and the sanctuary of its " frith-stool." Here came Henry V. with his young French queen, to return thanks at the saint's shrine after the great victory of Agincom-t, won on October 25th, which was not only the feast of St. Crispin, but that of the Translation of St. John ; and Archbishop Chichele decreed that the day of his death, May 7th, should be solemnly observed all over England. Many and diverse are the miracles related by St. John's ' Beverley Chapter Act Book, edited for the Surtees Society by Mr. A. F. Leach, vol. ii. xxxi. r^'f^n Fatuii< p. f. Ei:\I-.KI l.Y .MiN.-'l KK, THE >".\M-:. BEVERLEY AND ITS MINSTER 9 biographers to have been wrought by the saint both before and after his death. The bhnd, the lame, the diseased are cured ; Scotland and Ireland, as well as England, send their afflicted, and they find relief; a youth who had climbed to the upper parts of the church to see the miracle- play of the Resurrection acted in the churchyard falls and is killed, but the saint restores him to life, so that, as the chronicler quaintly adds, ** There is a resurrection inside the church as well as out " ; a love-lorn pedagogue is cured of his passion ; sailors pray to St. John at sea, and the storm subsides ; he gives rain in drought, and is hailed as a new Elijah ; the bells are rung as for the midnight mass, but by no mortal hand, and a festal procession of many clergy, priests, and bishops sweeps round the church thrice, and there enters a queen wearing a crown : " Who could this queen be," the narrator asks, " but the Blessed Virgin, the Mother of God, who is truly called the Queen of Heaven ? " And so the fame and the sanctity of the Minster of St. John were noised abroad, and its coffers were replenished, and pilgrims came thither, as Chaucer tells, from far and near. There is an interpolation in the Life of St. John of Beverley in the Acta Sanctorum, in which a similar legend is related of him to the well-known one concerning St. Gregory the Great. " Among the disciples of Archbishop Theodore,'' writes the chronicler, " he received one of great sanctity, named John, whom we have seen was afterwards ordained archbishop of the metropolitical Church of St. Peter at York, whom the Lord Jesus Christ so greatly loved that He sent to him the Holy Spirit in the form of a dove, while he was celebrating the divine rites." Folcard, a monk of St. Bertin, in Flanders, who came to Canterbury in the time of Edward the Confessor, and became Abbot of Thorney, says that this happened in the Church of St. Michael the Archangel in York (doubtless St. Michael-le-Belfrey), while he was engaged in lonely vigil and prayer in behalf of his work. The glory of the 10 MEMORIALS OF OLD YORKSHIRE Holy Spirit, flashing with bright splendour, appeared in the form of a white dove hovering over his head as he prayed. The light shone forth from the basilica as if the sun had left the heavens and shut up his glory within its narrow bounds. All who beheld it were amazed. The archbishop's deacon, Sigga, entered the church, and beheld the wondrous sight : the holy pontiff with uplifted hands and eyes raised to heaven, pouring forth his soul like water before God, while upon his head there rested a dove, whiter than snow. The deacon's face became, as it were, scorched and wrinkled up by the light ; the saint healed him with a touch, and bade him never to disclose what he had seen to any mortal, as long as he himself lived. There is little to be said about the history of the town of Beverley apart from its ecclesiastical associations. In 1 130 Archbishop Thurstan granted to the town the privi- lege of a Hans House and a Merchant Guild. According to Gross's list there were only five towns in England which obtained this privilege earlier. Thurstan's charter contained the elements of the municipal constitution of the borough. Twelve men of the Guild were chosen yearly to represent their fellow-burgesses, and called the " Twelve Governors " or " Keepers " of the town of Beverley. Merchant Guilds were founded originally for the regulation and protection of trade, but in process of time the government of the towns in which they existed became their chief function. Two orders of the Keepers, dated 1306, are preserved in the Town Records. Beverley returned two burgesses to the Parliament of Edward I. When King Henry VI. visited Beverley in 1447, the twelve Governors and a large number of burgesses rode out to meet him, and the terse speech of the principal Governor (Mayor as he would after- wards have been called), Roger Rolleston, was as follows : *' Most graciouse cristen Prince, our Soveraynge Lord, ye be woUcom til your pepul and town of Beverley." A present of ;^85 was on this occasion given to the king. Queen Elizabeth granted to the town a charter of BEVERLEY AND ITS MINSTER ii incorporation, at the request of the Earl of Leicester, in 1572. It cost the municipahty no less a sum than ^^223 is. lod., and ordained that the Mayor and the twelve Governors should hold their offices for life, and that the survivors should elect their successors. In 1663, by a charter of Charles II., thirteen capital burgesses vv^ere added to the Corporation ; and the last charter, that of James II., granted in 1685, al- tered the title of the twelve Governors to that of Aldermen. The town does not appear to have been fortified by walls, but by a moat and palisade. At every entrance there was an embattled gateway, one of which remains, the North Bar, built in 1409. In 1708, James Douglas, Duke of Queensberry, was created by Queen Anne Duke of Dover, Marquis of Beverley, and Baron Ripon. The English titles became extinct in 1778, and the Earldom of Beverley is now merged in the Dukedom of Northumberland. The Archbishops of York were Lords of the Manor of Beverley, and frequently resided at the Manor House in Beverley Park, afterwards the residence of the Wartons- A small portion only of this mansion remains, con- verted into a farmhouse, beneath which is the entrance to an underground passage, which can be traced outside for some distance. Archbishop Alfric Puttoc obtained for the people of Beverley, by his influence with Edward the Con- fessor, the privilege of holding three yearly fairs, which greatly promoted the prosperity of the town. In 1380, as it is usually supposed. Archbishop Alexander Neville granted to the burgesses the beautiful undulating park of Westwood, the largest of the common pastures of the town, which contain altogether about 1,200 acres. It would, however, appear that the grant of Neville was only the confirmation of a similar grant from his predecessors. King Edward I. visited Beverley, as we have seen, three times. In 1299 he remained three days as the guest of the canons of the Minster, and the sacred banner of St. John was then commanded to be borne before him 12 MEMORIALS OF OLD YORKSHIRE into Scotland. In 1300 he was accompanied by Queen Eleanor and his eldest son, afterwards Edward II., who visited Beverley several times after he became king. Many other royal visits are recorded during the Middle Ages, and in the midst of the great civil troubles in 1642, Charles I. transferred his Court from York to Beverley, residing at the house of Lady Gee, on the west side of North Bar within. After his failure to gain possession of Hull, the king returned to Beverley, but was followed by the Parliamentary troops, who, making a circuit and cross- ing the dyke near the North Bar, beat down the sentinels and gained the centre of the town before the Royalists knew of the pursuit. Charles took refuge in the Hall Garth, on the south side of the Minster, and his troops gave battle to the rebels in the streets, and drove them back in haste to Hull. Among the famous men of Beverley was St. Aelred, or Alured, born in 1109. Educated first in the Minster school, and afterwards at Cambridge, he returned to his native town, and became sacrist, canon, and treasurer of the church. He was subsequently appointed abbot of the newly founded Abbey of Rievaulx, whose beautiful ruins may still be seen near the little town of Helmsley. There he compiled his famous Annals of the English Kings from Brutus to Henry I. He has been called the English Florus, from the resemblance of his style to that of the Roman historian. In 1250 he was enrolled among the saints of the Cistercian Order. John Fisher, born in Beverley in 1456, became chaplain to the Lady Margaret, mother of King Henry VII., and was joint founder with her of Christ's and St. John's Colleges in Cambridge, and of the Margaret Professor- ship of Divinity. In 1504 he was appointed Bishop of Rochester. For upholding the papal supremacy, Paul III. sent him a cardinal's hat in 1535, but he was beheaded by Henry VIII. shortly afterwards. Three centuries later he was " Beatified," Facin-^ p. 12. liKVliKLliY MiNSTEK, Tllli CnulK. BEVERLEY AND ITS MINSTER 13 But now we draw near to the venerable Minster of St. John, and perhaps, if we happen to be students of architecture, we begin to ask ourselves whether, on the whole, we have ever seen so beautiful a church. Nor is this to be wondered at, since the late eminent archaeologist, Canon Venables, writing under the very shadow of his own beloved Lincoln, declared Beverley to be the " loveliest of English Minsters." " In the opinion of many excellent judges," wrote an able critic in the London Guardian (September 1884), " Beverley Minster is, taken all round, the very finest church the country possesses." Mr. Leach begins the introduction to his edition of the Beverley Chapter Act Book by saying : " There is no more beautiful building in England than Beverley Minster." ..." Beverley, like the King's daughter, is all glorious within." ' If we go on to analyse this beauty into its component elements, the first feature which strikes us will probably be the admirable proportion of the structure ; of height to width, of pillar to arch, of triforium to clerestory. You never find yourself saying, " This is too low, and wanting in sublimity ; this is too high and suggestive of weakness and attenuation ; this is too short and we yearn for a far-stretching vista," Similarly, the ground-plan, which is practically that of the Norman church (with the excep- tion of the Lady Chapel, the eastern transept, and the western aisle of the great transept), forms the most per- fect double cross of any known church. We shall next observe that in the restoration and Gothicising of the Norman church (which was "grievously disfigured" by a great fire in 1188), a work which went on for about 200 years, each generation so assimilated its work to that of its predecessors, that the general effect is one of complete ' The late Sir Gilbert Scott on one occasion, when standing in the choir with Mr. Alderman Elwell of Beverley, who was remarking upon its beauty, exclaimed enthusiastically, " This is the finest Gothic church in the world ! " Mr. Francis Bond, in his Gothic Architecture in Enghxnd (1905) ranks the nave of Beverley Minster among the four " most successful vaulted interiors we possess" (p. 54); while he describes its choir as "the masterpiece of thirteenth-century Gothic" (p. 535). 14 MEMORIALS OF OLD YORKSHIRE harmony coupled with the variety in detail displayed by some of the finest examples of all the pointed styles. The very " dogtooth " moulding of the thirteenth century was not wholly abandoned in the fourteenth, and the arch curve of the Per- pendicular windows is as graceful as that of the lancets. We shall then note the immense wealth of rich carving and sculpture which meets the eye everywhere. True, in the Early English portion, the only foliage is that of the simple ** Herba Benedicta," the only semblance of the human form is the " Cistercian Mask." But on the east side of the early fourteenth-century altar-screen, and in the arcading under the windows of the aisles of the nave, as well as on the buttresses and pinnacles of the exterior (espe- cially those on the south side) we have an efflorescence of " Decorated " work which it would not be easy to surpass. The same may be said of the screens, sedilia, and later stalls of the choir, remarkable examples of three periods of wood- work ; while, in the crowning glory of the " Percy Shrine " (a.d. 1340), we can admire the finest of all Gothic monuments. Two interior points of view should be especially com- mended to the visitor. Standing under the organ-screen, and looking west, we have before us the long vista of the noble nave, with its eleven lofty arches on either side — twelve, if we include those of the centre crossing. The great west window, with its rich glass, portraying scenes connected with the early history of Christianity in Nor- thumbria, and the figures of abbots, provosts, canons, and other w^orthies of Beverley, forms a fine termination to the prospect. Underneath it is the lofty western portal, flanked by eighteen niches containing excellent statues of the " Black Letter Saints," by Messrs. Percy and Robert Baker and the late Mr. Robert Smith. The other view is that which presents itself to one standing rather more than half-way up the choir (it should be on a sunny morning), and gazing upon the exquisite Early English architecture of the eastern crossing, the ancient glass of the great east window, the Decorated altar- BEVERLEY AND ITS MINSTER 15 screen and Percy Shrine, with the richly canopied stalls to the right and left. One of the most venerable relics of the Minster is the rude " Frith-stool," or " Chair of Peace," described by Mr. Leach as the oldest seat remaining in its original home. It no doubt dates from the time of Athelstan, who conferred the right of sanctuary. The unique double Early English staircase which led to the Chapter House must not be for- gotten, nor the noble Norman Transition font of Frosterley marble, nor the collection of relics in the oak case in the south-east transept, the most valuable of which is the Provost's Book, or Register of Simon Russell, already alluded to, an important MS. of a.d. 1416, in its original binding. All the ancient glass remaining in the Minster was collected and arranged in the east window in the eighteenth century. There are thus sufficient specimens of all three styles to guide the artist when new windows are to be designed ; for (contrary to the present fashion, which, it is to be hoped, will soon have run its course) nothing is allowed to be inserted in Beverley Minster, whether in painted glass, carving, or sculpture, which is not as nearly as possible on the lines of the original work. We may especially point to the reproduction of thirteenth-century glass in the choir by Messrs. Powell, and to that of four- teenth-century glass in the memorial window to the officers and men of the East Yorkshire Regiment who fell in the South African war, and the adjoining window in the south aisle of the nave, by Messrs. Hardman. The organ retains the best parts of that erected by Snetzler in 1767, since which it has been frequently en- larged, mainly by Messrs. Hill ; and it is now a very complete instrument, notable both for the power of the full organ and for the sweetness and variety of the softer stops.' The line organ-screen of richly carved oak was ' The organ is at the present time (1915) being entirely rebuilt by Messrs. Hill & Son, and will be enclosed in an elaborate case. It has four manuals and pedal, 62 speaking stops, 23 couplers, etc., making a total of 85 draw stops, and 3)9^2 pipes. The wind is supplied by three hydraulic engines. i6 MEMORIALS OF OLD YORKSHIRE designed by the late Sir Gilbert Scott on the lines of the tabernacle work of the stalls, and most successfully carried out by Messrs. Elwell of Beverley. It is pleasant to add that its handsome gates of wrought iron were also the work of a townsman, Mr. Watson. The front of the altar-screen was most carefully restored from the remains of the original work (it was dedicated in 1308) about seventy years ago. It contained a great deal of fine carved work in its niches and canopies, but these were all empty ; and the first impression it gave was that of a white stone wall, hardly worthy of its position in the very focus of so much beauty. There seemed to be no doubt but that the statuary should be restored, and also that gold and colour were needed. But how were the latter to be supplied ? The painting and gilding of carved stone-work, much less of statuary, never, in our judgment, seems really satisfactory, although it was so often done in mediaeval times. Its own natural play of light and shade has a much more pleasing effect ; the fumes of our modern stoves and gas-jets soon exert a ghastly influence, and, in the present case, the contrast presented by the virgin purity of the Percy Shrine would painfully accentuate the garishness of a painted and gilded altar-screen.^ No solution of the problem could satisfy every taste, but the one which was adopted has been almost universally approved by those competent to judge. The twelve niches were filled with statues, executed in Corsham stone by Mr. N. Hitch of Vauxhall, under the careful superintendence of the late Mr. J. L. Pearson, R.A. The thirty-six flat panels were filled with ** opus sectile " mosaic by Messrs. Powell ; a vermilion and gold diaper copied from the original " gesso " illumination of the altar-screen was largely used as a background, and also to line the niches, in which it serves the double purpose of vividly throwing up the ' In these remarks the writer is simply giving his own opinion, formed after long and careful study of the subject generally and of the local con- ditions in this particular instance. He is quite aware of the wide differences of taste in these matters. J'cicing p. 16. Uevekley Minster, the TEKrv Shkin;: BEVERLEY AND ITS MINSTER 17 statues and also preserving the balance of colouring with white stone-work over the whole composition. The statuary in the adjoining and almost contemporary Percy Shrine was studied for the figures, and the colouring of the east window beyond for the mosaics, so that the work might "look right" amid its surroundings. The needed warmth and glow of gold and colour were thus obtained in a worthy and permanent material, proof against carbonic vapours, and confined to the flat panels of the reredos. The work was completed in 1897, in memory of the late Commander H. O. Nolloth, R.N., the father of the present vicar. ^ The five windows in the south front of the eastern transept are a memorial to the vicar's mother. Passing now to the exterior, the main objects which impress the eye are the roofs (which all retain their original very lofty pitch), the beautiful fafades of the east end and of the transepts, the imposing north porch (which Rickman declared to be the finest specimen of a panelled Perpendi- cular porch in the kingdom), the flying buttresses of the nave, with their richly carved Decorated niches and pinnacles, and, above all, the magnificent western front and towers. Every visitor should make a point of going a few yards down Minster Moorgate, which is a continua- tion of Minster Yard North, for there, close to the entry to the Minster stoneyard, is the only spot from which the towers can be properly seen. Stand there when the moonlight, or the rosy afterglow of a summer evening, or the pearly haze of a fine winter afternoon, illumines those towers, with their buttresses of massive strength, yet so ex- quisitely proportioned in their receding stages as to lead you to imagine that they soar to a far greater than their actual height, panelled, traceried, and fretted from base to pinnacle and adorned with some ninety statues. And, as you gaze, you will feel that you have before you the very beau-ideal of ' The view facing the next page, from a photograph by the Rev. W. E. Wigfall, forms the frontispiece of "Stalls and Tabernacle Work," and is in- serted by the kind permission of the author, Mr. Francis Bond, and his publishers, the Oxford University Press. i8 MEMORIALS OF OLD YORKSHIRE Gothic art in its blended grace and strength, and romance of carving and sculpture. I know that nothing in the world can approach the magnitude and richness of the west fronts of Rheims and Amiens ; but in perfection of outline and pure Gothic feeling, nothing can excel the west front of Beverley. Its setting has lately been greatly improved by the closing of the public footpaths through the Minster yard, and the lowering of the high brick wall which encom- passed it, so that the grey buttresses are now seen rising from a fair greensward, well planted with evergreens, rose- trees, and flowering shrubs, dotted here and there with limes and silver birches.' The restoration of the sculpture in the west front and north porch was undertaken as a memorial of the sixtieth year of the reign of Queen Victoria. Only one ancient figure remained, that of Henry Percy, on the north face of the north tower, and there was a hard and unsatisfying look in the scores of richly canopied but empty niches. The project was well taken up, and besides the donations of residents, statues were given by the Archbishop of York, the Archdeacon of the East Riding, the Guild of St. John of Beverley, the Historical Society of Beverley (Massa- chusetts), &c. ; while, among local donors, may be men- tioned the Freemasons of Beverley, the women of Beverley, and the vicar's Men's Bible Class. The committee were fortunate enough to secure the services of Mr. Robert Smith, a sculptor of great experience under several of our most eminent architects ; and in the opinion of good judges, ' The tympanum, or lofty embattled chamber over the great west window, has sometimes been absurdly reviled on the ground that it is a sort of false front to the nave roof. It would be just as reasonable to object to the lateral towers that they form false fronts to the side aisles. The fact is that here, as at Strasburg, Notre-Dame, and other continental churches, the whole west front, or western bay of the nave, is one great tower right across. At Stras- burg some heavy bells are hung in the tympanum or central portion ; and a few years since we had some idea of doing the same thing at Beverley. Apart from this, the effect would have been most inharmonious, if the Perpendicular builders had allowed the steep-pitched roof of the earlier nave to appear between the towers. The low gable of the central portion of this threefold western tower, with its battlement and pinnacles, is the best possible upper termination which could have been devised for it, and far more satisfactory than the flat horizontal finish of the corresponding portion of the west front of Strasburg and Notre-Dame. Entran'ce to TiiE Choir, Facing f. i8. BEVERLEY AND ITS MINSTER 19 the figures have the impress of true Gothic feehng, and will compare favourably with any similar work. Some critics have been severe upon certain figures in the lowest tier, without taking into account the peculiar difficulty which had to be met — viz. that the lowest niches were not only wider and deeper, but unfortunately much shorter than the upper tiers. In the figures near the base of the north tower (west face), however, the difficulty has been cleverly surmounted. Kings and queens who have had to do with Beverley and the Church in Northumbria fill the uppermost row of niches, about 100 feet from the ground, and the statues are about 6 feet 6 inches high. In the next row appear bishops and archbishops ; then abbots and abbesses, warriors and saints, &c. In the centre of the battlement of the north porch is a large niche, in which has been placed, what it was evidently designed for, a seated figure of our Lord, with crown, orb, and sceptre ; above, in the spire or pinnacle, are two niches, containing in the lower one, St. John the Baptist, and in the small upper one, a heavenly herald, an angel bearing a trumpet. On either side of our Lord are His twelve apostles, St. Paul being substituted for St. John the Divine, who appears among the four large statues on either side of the portal below, the patron saints of the four parishes of Beverley, the others being St. Martin of Tours, St. Nicholas of Myra, aud St. Mary the Virgin. Over the west portal is a niche with an exceedingly beautiful canopy and gable, flanked by pinnacles, soaring up in front of the great west window. In this niche stands the patron saint. The other thirty niches round the west portal have since been filled. The uppermost row of twelve display the twelve patriarchs, while prophets, priests, and types of our Lord, below, unite in conveying the idea of the Old Testament as introductory to the New, the Law preparing the way for the Gospel, the Jewish Temple as the portal of the Christian Church — after the manner of the " Bible of Amiens." There are 108 statues on the exterior of the Minster, 20 MEMORIALS OF OLD YORKSHIRE 3 of which are ancient ; and 74 in the interior, of which 30 are ancient; total, 182; or 296, if we include the 114 oak figures, 6 in the organ-screen, and 108 (all from the studio of Mr. R. P. Baker) in the canopies of the choir-stalls. If the clock happens to chime, or if the bells are ringing while the visitor stands below, he can hardly fail to be struck by their full, deep, musical tones, and it may interest him to know that the ring of ten in the north tower, and the " Bourdon," *' Great John," in the south tower, are the heaviest set of bells that have been made, since, about fourteen years ago, Messrs. Taylor of Lough- borough, with the aid of the late Canon Simpson, redis- covered and elaborated the lost art of the great Belgian founders of three centuries ago, by which each bell is made to give out a true chord, its three octaves, minor third and fifth all being in tune with each other. In the north tower may also be seen the two ancient bells, " Peter " (now used as the prayer-bell), and " Brithunus," cast by Johannes de Stafford about the year 1350 ; and the in- scription-rings of two other bells in the former peal. The clock is a very powerful one, by Messrs. Smith of Derby^ and is, we believe, the only clock in the world which strikes upon bells in two towers ; the going train and the chiming train (by which the quarters are announced in varying strains upon the peal of ten bells) are in the north tower^ while the striking train is in the south tower, underneath the great bell, on which it strikes the hour. This bell is in exact tune with the peal, and is the largest and deepest-toned hour-bell in any church or cathedral in the country.' On the south side lof the south tower may be seen the remains of St. Martin's parish church, and of the charnel- house below in which there was an altar of Corpus Christi. From this point there is a good view of the exquisite Decorated flying buttresses before alluded to, wuth their ' The campanologist may like to know that the peal is in C, the tenor weighing 2 tons ij cwt. "Great John" gives the deep G, the octave below the sixth bell in the peal, and weighs 7 tons 3 qrs. I lb. Its diameter is 7 ft. 2| ins. ; thickness at the sound-bow, 6^ ins. It is so hung that it can be rung for the last five minutes, on the ceasing of the peal before the Sunday services, without causing the slightest vibration in the tower. BEVERLEY AND ITS MINSTER 21 beautiful niches and crocketted pinnacles. These have been lately restored by Mr. John Baker, a stone-carver of remarkable skill and the right mediaeval perception. On the south tower is a venerable sundial, with the legend " Now or When ? " It is said that the late Canon Jackson of Leeds, when a careless youth, once lay resting on the grass in the Minster churchyard on a summer day, when his eye caught the inscription on the old dial, and he was led into a train of thought which changed the whole current of his life, and he became one of the most useful and revered clergy in the north of England. Among the poems in the late Canon Wilton's Lyra Pastoralis is the following : — NOW OR WHEN? (Being the Legend of a Sundial on Beverley Minster.) " On the tall buttress of a Minster grey, The glorious work of long-forgotten men, I read this Dial-legend — ' Now or When? ' Well had these builders used their little day Of service — witness this sublime display Of blossomed stone, dazzling the gazer's ken. These towers attest they knew 'twas there and then. Not some vague morrow they must work and pray. " Oh, let us seize this transitory now From which to build a life-work that will last : In humble prayer and worship let us bow Ere fleeting opportunity is past. \Vhen once Life's sun forsakes the Uial-plate, For work and for repentance 'tis too late ! ' In 1547, when the College of St. John was dissolved, its members consisted of — I Provost. 9 Canons or Prebendaries, including the Archbishop as Prebendary ot St. Leonard's altar. 3 Officers : the Precentor, the Sacrist, and the Chancellor. 7 Parsons or Rectors. 9 Vicars-Choral of the 9 Canons. 15 Chantry Priests. I Master of the Works. 1 Chamberlain. 17 Clerks of the Second Form. 4 Sacristans or Sextons. 2 Incense Bearers. 8 Choristers. 77 22 MEMORIALS OF OLD YORKSHIRE More than one of these offices, however, was held by the same person, so that the actual number was probably about that of the stalls in ,'the choir — 68. These stalls, by the way, all preserve their misericords, forming the largest set in the country, Lincoln Minster ranking next with 64. They contain many carvings of great interest. The Provost ruled over the temporal possessions of the church, exercised the patronage of the livings, and ap- pointed the seven rectors and other officers of the Minster. In his court he judged both ecclesiastical and civil offences, and had the power of inflicting capital punishment. The nine prebendaries were not called after the places whence their prebends were derived, but after the altars which they served, and each of them had a parish, served as usual by their vicars. And now we leave the quiet precinct, deemed of yore so holy that the fiercest bulls approaching it were said forthwith to become mild and tractable. The deep echoes of the Minster bells die away upon the ear, and the quaint, red-tiled roofs of old Beverley grow dim upon the horizon. But still, now and again, we turn from afar, to look upon the grey, fretted towers which long dominate the plain ; and we muse upon the simple times when their very sight, joined with ardent prayer, was held to bring healing to the sick. And then our thoughts revert to the busy, toiling present, when men run to and fro and know- ledge is increased — but not always w^isdom ; and we feel how there still remains, insistent as ever, the old, deep need of the calm and stay of the Great Presence brooding over all — the Presence symbolised by that ancient Temple of Him who said, near two thousand years ago, " Come unto Me, all ye who labour and are heavy-laden, and I will give you rest." BEVERLEY AND ITS MINSTER 23 HISTORICAL NOTES A.D. 157. Traditional foundation of Beverley Minster (?), lemp. King Lucius ; v. p. 4. „ 640. Birth of St. John of Beverley, who rebuilt the Church, and founded the Abbey. ,, 721. On May 7th, St. John of B. died, and was buried in the Minster. ,, 733. Death of St. Brithunus, first Abbot. ,, 751. Death of St. Winwald, second Abbot. ,, 866. The Abbey well-nigh destroyed by the Danes. „ 933. King Athelstan enriches the Abbey, and changes the foundation to a College of Secular Canons. This is doubtless the date of the Fridstol. ,, 1 130. Probable date of the font. ,, 1 188. The Minster "grievously disfigured" by fire. „ 1200-1220. Restoration of East end in Early English style ; addition of " Lady Chapel," eastern transept, and West aisle of great transept. ,, 1308-30. Nave restored in Decorated style. „ 1 390-1400. West end restored, and upper stages of towers added in Perpendicular style. „ 1335. The " Percy Shrine." ,, 1416. East window. ,, 1520. Choir stalls. „ 1547. Dissolution of the College of St. John. LNWIN BROTHERS, LIMITED, THE GRESHAM PRESS, WOKING AND LONDON' County Churches General Editor : Rev. J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. Each Volume Illustrated with Half-tone ciiul Line Illustiations. A Series of Handy Guides to the Old Parish Churches in the Counties of England. Foolscap 8vo, cloth. 2s. 6d. per vol. net. The special or main architectural features of each fabric are named ; and reference made to Fonts, Pulpits, Screens, Stalls and Benches, Sedilia, Lecterns, Chests, etc. Mention is also made of old Effigies in Brass and Stone and of other Monu- ments of distinction. The initial date of the Registers is also given, as to which so many blunders are often made in Directories. The introductory chapters contain summaries of the leading characteristics of the Churches of the particular County. " This admirable series. 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