Rambling Recollections
 
 MACMILLAN AND CO., Limited 
 
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 Rambling Recollections 
 
 BY 
 
 THE RIGHT HONOURABLE 
 SIR HENRY DRUMMOND WOLFF 
 
 G.C.B., G.C.M.G. 
 
 LATE BRITISH AMBASSADOR IN SPAIN 
 
 Ut, quocunque loco fueris, vixisse libenter 
 
 Te dicas. 
 
 Hor. Epis. I. xi. 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES 
 VOL. I 
 
 MACMILLAN AND CO., LIMITED 
 ST. MARTIN'S STREET, LONDON 
 
 i 908
 
 First Edition January 1908 
 Reprinted February 1908
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 UNIVERSI1 CALIFORNIA 
 
 SANTA BARBARA 
 
 TO MY WIFE 
 LADY WOLFF 
 
 FOR SO MANY YEARS MY CONSTANT COMRADE
 
 PREFACE 
 
 The title of this book conveys my meaning clearly. 
 It is not an autobiography, nor even a continuous 
 narrative. It is founded on no diary or record. 
 Whatever the contents of the book — whether 
 narrative or anecdotic — they are given just as 
 they come unbidden into my memory, which is 
 not a bad one, though possibly not so exact as I 
 could wish. I have not attempted to be strictly 
 accurate as to chronological order, though the 
 events described harmonise with the period in 
 connection with which they appear. By anticipa- 
 tion, therefore, I fully recognise the defects arising 
 from want of premeditation. 
 
 Any apologies that may be required of me, I 
 make at once. I am prepared to accept criticism 
 without remonstrance. 
 
 There are many points omitted. I have not 
 even alluded to the great change in English society 
 caused by the influx of American notables. I 
 believe that this peculiar feature of recent years 
 is likely to bring great improvement and advantage 
 
 Vll
 
 viii RAMBLING RECOLLECTIONS 
 
 to both countries. Unfortunately, what are called 
 my declining years have not been overcrowded 
 with enjoyment ; but among my pleasanter recol- 
 lections are those of Americans like Consuelo, 
 Duchess of Manchester ; her sister, Lady Lister- 
 Kaye ; Mrs. Adair, and Lady Randolph Churchill. 
 These friends being still alive — let us hope for 
 many years to come — I venture neither to eulogise 
 nor to criticise. 
 
 I have also much to say of gratitude to the 
 family of the late Duke and Duchess of Marl- 
 borough, to Lord and Lady Londonderry, to 
 Lady Chesterfield, and to Mr. and Mrs. George 
 Bankes and their family, from all of whom I have 
 received many acts of kindness. I may say the 
 same of the late Duke of Wellington — a man 
 of extraordinary common sense and irresistible 
 humour. If it were my misfortune to write any 
 sequel to this book, I should have much to say 
 that space has now forced me to omit. 
 
 I feel under great obligations to Sir Edward 
 Grey and to other members of the Foreign Office 
 for the facilities they have given me in connection 
 with this work. My warm thanks are also due to 
 the Russian Ambassador and to the Persian charge 
 d'affaires.
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Malta — Mr. Hookham Frere — Naval friends — Sir Frederick 
 Ponsonby — His family — Other acquaintances — Arrival of 
 Turkish ladies — Giraffes — Malta transferred to Europe by Act 
 of Parliament — Government — Summers in Malta . . 1-10 
 
 CHAPTER II 
 
 Naples — Leghorn — Geneva — Acquaintances in Switzerland — Dr. 
 Malan — Mr. Henry Drummond — Schools at Richmond 
 and Henley — Gas-lighting and lucifer matches — Postage — 
 Sir Francis Doyle — Rugby — Masters — Schoolfellows — Mr. 
 Matthew Arnold— Mr. Lowe . . . . .1 1-26 
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 Bruges — Fellow -students — Holiday in the Ardennes — Friends in 
 Bruges — Amusements — Mr. Henry Drummond — Return to 
 England — Coaching for the Foreign Office — Musical studies 
 — Stage acquaintances — Recollections of theatres and plays 
 — Early Victorian young ladies and literature — Friends of my 
 youth — Society — How debtors evaded arrest . . . 27-45 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 Lord Palmerston— Handwriting — Appointed to the Foreign Office 
 —Comparison between Foreign Office of 184fi and present day 
 —Clerks in Foreign Office— Mr. Mellish— Mr. Hammond- - 
 Other colleagues ....... 46-60 
 
 ix
 
 RAMBLING RECOLLECTIONS 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Colleagues in the Foreign Office— Under-Secretaries of State — Life 
 at the Foreign Office — Hours of work — Private theatricals — 
 Holiday at Spa— Marriage of Lady Dorothy Nevill . . (il-70 
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 
 London friends — Sir John Burgoyne — Mr. Disraeli — Other acquaint- 
 ances — Mr. Hayward's anecdotes — Waterloo banquet — Foreign 
 Office stories — Places of amusement .... 71-8.5 
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 Alfred Club— Members of the Club— Tichborne Case— Ruin of the 
 Alfred — Anecdotes of Archbishop M'Gee — Mr. Brookfield — 
 London friends — Laurence Oliphant and Spiritualism — Other 
 acquaintances — Sheridan anecdotes .... 86-99 
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 
 Winter society in London — Early acquaintances — Sir Charles 
 Wyke — The late Duke of Rutland— Mr. Thackeray — Mr. 
 Kinglake — Debates in the House of Commons — Members 
 of Parliament ...... 100-119 
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 Prince Louis Napoleon — The Spanish Marriages — Disturbances in 
 England — Dismissal of Sir Henry Bulwer by the Spanish 
 Government — Visit to Paris — La ProprUU c'est le Vol — Society 
 in Paris — Proclamation of Prince-President — Meetings with 
 Napoleon III. ..... 120-128 
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 Holiday in Spain — Journey to Madrid — Bull-fight — Queen Isabella 
 — Spanish acquaintances — English friends in Spain — Spanish 
 titles — Funeral of the Prince of Asturias — Connection of Spain 
 with the East— Journey to England . . . 129-139
 
 CONTENTS xi 
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Exhibition of 1851 — Visit to Baden — Lord Palmerston's fall — 
 Acquaintances in London — Change of Government — Appointed 
 attache at Florence — Mather Case . . . 140-148 
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 
 Florence— Colleagues — English residents — Russian acquaintances 
 
 — Italian society — English friends — Florentine families 149-157 
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 
 Corps diplomatique at Florence — Acquaintances — English visitors — 
 Italian society — Effects of Austrian occupation — Sir Henry 
 Bulwer 's Mission to Rome — Diplomatic relations with the Papal 
 See — " Eglinton Clause" — Letter from Mr. Lytton— Murray 
 Case — Visit of British artists — Duty on English beer . 158-168 
 
 CHAPTER XIV 
 
 Madiai Case — Captain Walker — Sentence on the Madiai — Deputa- 
 tion — Protests against their sentence — Lord John Russell's 
 despatch— Release of the Madiai— Mr. and Mrs. Edmund 
 Phipps — Sir James Hudson — Lord Norman by Minister at 
 Florence— Mr. Scarlett ..... 169-177 
 
 CHAPTER XV 
 
 Sir Henry Bulwer — Commission to investigate Danubian Princi- 
 palities — Visit to Sir Henry Bulwer at Constantinople — His 
 maxims — Mr. Robert Lytton — Lord Lytton in India — 
 Marriage — Visits to Carrara and Florence . . 178-189 
 
 CHAPTER XVI 
 
 British Legation at Naples — Neapolitan society — English visitors 
 
 — Lord and Lady Holland — Letters — Anecdotes of Popes 190-199 
 
 CHAPTER XVII 
 
 Return to Florence — Journey to England — Prince Louis Lucien 
 Bonaparte — Chemical and philological studies — Family — 
 Mutual friends — Meetings with Prince Louis Lucien J00-205
 
 xii RAMBLING RECOLLECTIONS 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII 
 
 PAGK 
 
 Return to Foreign Office — Changes — Foreign Office and House of 
 Commons — Hard work in connection with the Crimean War- 
 Entertainments — Friends in the diplomatic corps — Holland 
 House — Friends in London — Letter from Lord Lytton on 
 writing novels— Mr. Kinglake on Fiction . . 206-216 
 
 CHAPTER XIX 
 
 Holiday in Elba — Napoleon's exile — Maubreuil's design — Napoleon's 
 journey to Elba — Museum — Claude Holard — M. Larabit— 
 Souvenirs of the Emperor — His library — Expedition to Mar- 
 ciana — Visit of lady and child to Napoleon — Speculations as 
 to their identity .... . . 217-226 
 
 CHAPTER XX 
 
 Work at Foreign Office — Amateur pantomime — Treaty of Paris — 
 Visit to France — Parisian society — Terms of Treaty — Diplo- 
 matic acquaintances — Competitive examinations — Anecdotes — 
 Friends in London — The Times and Repeal of Corn Laws — 
 Other acquaintances ..... 227-238 
 
 CHAPTER XXI 
 
 Special Mission to Brussels — Reception of Lord Westmorland — 
 Preparations for the fetes — Audience of the King — Society in 
 Brussels — Royal visitors — Ceremony of congratulation — Enter- 
 tainments — Orderliness of the Belgians — Banquet and opera — 
 Illuminations — Cavalcade representing the towns of Belgium 
 — Visit to Bruges — King Leopold and Lord Westmorland — 
 Belgian Ministers — Interviews with King Leopold II. and the 
 Comte de Flandre — Despatch to Lord Clarendon . 239-251 
 
 CHAPTER XXII 
 
 Popular sympathy of House of Lords — Indian Mutiny — Fall of 
 Lord Palmerston's Government — Lord Derby's Administration 
 — Private Secretary to Lord Malmesbury — Sir Edward Lytton 
 — The new Government — Letter from Lamartine . 252-260
 
 CONTENTS xiii 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Fuad Pasha — Private Secretary to Sir Edward Lytton — Work at 
 Colonial Office — Heads of Departments — Sir Arthur Birch — 
 Tour in the Lake Country — Distinguished Colonists — Visitors 
 at Knebworth — Marriage of the Princess Royal — Peace with 
 Persia — Causes of the War — Three Canadian statesmen — 
 Marshal Pelissier — Foundation of British Columbia — Sir 
 Edward Lytton 's speech ..... 261-272 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV 
 
 Ionian Islands — Tenure of Islands — Sir Thomas Maitland's Consti- 
 tution — Ionian titles — The Three Constitutions — Desire for union 
 with Greece — Constant friction — Legislative anomalies — Con- 
 sular jurisdiction — Mr. Gladstone's Mission . . 273-281 
 
 CHAPTER XXV 
 
 Mr. Gladstone's qualifications — His departure for Ionian Islands 
 — Sir Henry Storks — Publication of secret despatches — Mr. 
 Wellington Guernsey — Letters from Mr. Gladstone — Mr. 
 Gladstone's proposed reforms — Refusal by Ionians — Mr. 
 Gladstone's return to England — Appointment of Sir Henry 
 Storks as Lord High Commissioner — Defeat of the Govern- 
 ment — Sir Edward Lytton's prophecy — Appointed Secretary 
 to Lord High Commissioner — Officials in Corfu 282-292 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI 
 
 Duties as Secretary — Financial Commission — Fiscal system in 
 Corfu — Visit to England — Marriage Act for Ionian Islands — 
 International Statistical Congress— Sir Edward Lytton's visit 
 to Corfu— His interest in the Occult— Geomancy— Method of 
 divination ....... 293-302 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII 
 
 Lord Lytton's Memorandum ..... 303-320
 
 xiv RAMBLING RECOLLECTIONS 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Wheel of Pythagoras — Improved method of divination — Occult in 
 
 Egypt — Incident at Madrid — Mr. Sturges Bourne's experience 321-32!) 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX 
 
 Ionian Education Commission — University — Exhibition at Corfu — 
 Florence — London Exhibition of 1862 — Hughenden — Mr. 
 Babbage — Visit to a medium .... 330-337 
 
 CHAPTER XXX 
 
 Letter from General Garibaldi — His sufferings in 1862 — "A 
 
 Suppressed Despatch " . . . . 338-346 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI 
 
 Duties on tobacco — Letter from M. Michel Chevalier — Increase of 
 
 imports and receipts — Ionian Institute — Greek music . 347-355 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII 
 
 Visitors to the Ionian Islands — Princess Darinka of Montenegro- 
 Friends at Corfu ...... 356-367 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII 
 
 Political agitation — Letters from the Lord High Commissioner — 
 
 Greek Revolution— Ionian Islands to be ceded to Greece 368-379 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV 
 
 Sir George Dasent — Alleged plot in Corfu — Election of King of 
 Greece — Mr. Baillie Cochrane — Vote for union with Greece — 
 Relinquishment of Protectorate .... 380-391 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV 
 
 Visit to England — Duke of Newcastle — Sir Edward Lytton — Lord 
 
 Carlingford — Islands transferred to Greece . . 392-398
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 1. Henry Drummond Wolff, jet. 13-L From a Drawing 
 
 by H. B. Ziegler .... 
 
 2. Henry Drummond Wolff, ^et. 4^ . 
 
 3. Louis Napoleon Bonaparte . 
 
 4. Florence. By Edward Lear . 
 
 5. The Sweet Waters of Asia. By Preziosi 
 6". Lady Wolff ...... 
 
 7. Louis Lucien Bonaparte 
 
 8. Palaiokastritza, Corfu .... 
 
 Frontispiece 
 To face jxtge 8 
 126 
 150 
 181 
 188 
 203 
 290 
 
 xv
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 Malta — Mr. Hookham Frere — Naval friends — Sir Frederick Ponsonby 
 — His family — Other acquaintances — Arrival of Turkish ladies — 
 Giraffes — Malta transferred to Europe by Act of Parliament — 
 Government — Summers in Malta. 
 
 My first recollections began at Malta, in a large 
 garden at the Pieta. Here I used to play of a 
 morning, when a door would open in the wall from 
 another garden, admitting a gentleman in a skull- 
 cap, who said, " Good-morning, little boy." It was 
 Mr. Hookham Frere, the uncle of the first Sir 
 Bartle. He had retired to Malta after leaving the 
 Embassy in Spain, where he had some misunder- 
 standing with the Government of the day in 
 connection with the battle of Corunna and the 
 retreat of Sir John Moore. After leaving Spain 
 I do not think he was ever employed again. In 
 earlier life he had been the great friend and 
 associate of George Canning, and many anecdotes 
 are told of their powers of repartee. There is one, 
 I believe, well known, and which many years ago 
 I read in a book — I think Mr. Samuel Rogers' 
 Table-talk. Amongst other friends of Mr. Canning 
 and Mr. Frere was Dr. Legge, who was appointed 
 vol.. i i b
 
 2 A REPARTEE ch. 
 
 Bishop of Oxford. He invited his two friends to 
 attend his first sermon, which they did accordingly. 
 Afterwards they went to have luncheon with him, 
 and he, full of his newly acquired dignity, asked 
 them what they thought of his sermon. Mr. 
 Canning replied, "You were short." The Bishop 
 rejoined, " I am glad you found me short, for I 
 was afraid of being tedious " ; whereupon Mr. Frere 
 remarked, "You were tedious." 
 
 Mr. Frere had a brother whom I knew after- 
 wards in London — Mr. Hatley Frere, who lived 
 in Poets' Corner. His daughter, I think, had 
 married Bishop Spencer. He wished to be very 
 kind, and asked me to dine at his house when I 
 chose. Unfortunately, he dined at four o'clock, 
 in those days not an unusual hour, but one during 
 which I was detained at the Foreign Office, and 
 I fear he was hurt at my constantly refusing his 
 invitations. 
 
 Mr. Hookham Frere was the author of a 
 poem called Whistlecraft — still almost a classic. 
 In Parliament he had been associated with Mr. 
 Canning and with Mr. Ellis, who was the first 
 among them to be put into office. This was at 
 the India Board, where he was made to suffer 
 many jokes on the part of his two friends. 
 They were in the habit of writing to him under 
 assumed names on subjects supposed to be con- 
 nected with his office. One joke, still remembered, 
 is a letter, purporting to have been written from 
 India by a lady who was born a French Canadian
 
 i MR. FRERES HOUSEHOLD 3 
 
 and who claimed the intervention of the Home 
 Government. It was dated from a place, totally 
 invented by the writers, called the Negudda 
 Pelangs, where, the lady wrote, she had come with 
 her husband, " et oil il sest fait negre." Against 
 this grievance the lady appealed as a British 
 subject. 
 
 Mr. Frere had been married to the Dowager 
 Lady Erroll, and in his house there still lived a 
 niece of that lady, known as Miss Blake, after- 
 wards Lady Hamilton Chichester. I knew later 
 in London an aunt of hers, an old lady and a great 
 whist-player, who was irreverently known by the 
 name of Peggy Blake. On the death of Lady 
 Erroll, Mr. Frere's sister, Miss Susan Frere, whom 
 I recollect as a charming elderly lady, took the head 
 of his household. There was also a young Greek 
 lady whom Mr. Frere, when yachting in Greek 
 waters, had rescued as a baby from an island during 
 some massacre. She was known as Miss Statyra 
 Livedostro, and married Captain Hope, a son of 
 the Lord President of the Court of Session, and 
 grandson of the first Earl of Hopetoun. I still 
 have in my possession a little New Testament 
 which she gave me with her autograph. Captain 
 Hope, whom I also recollect as having been kind 
 to me in my infancy, was later appointed to some 
 important post at the Cape of Good Hope, and 
 there, I believe, he died. 
 
 Malta was then, as it is now, a great resort for 
 the Navy, and I recollect vaguely the great kind-
 
 4 FRIENDS IN THE NAVY oh. 
 
 ness of the different naval officers 1 met. One 
 whom I knew to the end of his life was Sir 
 Rodney Mnndy. I met him subsequently at 
 Corfu and then in England, and always felt for 
 him a sincere regard. Amongst others was 
 Captain Halstead, afterwards Admiral Halstead, 
 Secretary at Lloyd's. Two cousins of mine — Sir 
 William Hoste and his brother, Theodore Hoste — 
 were constantly backwards and forwards as mid- 
 shipmen in the Navy. They were the sons of 
 the celebrated Sir William Hoste, well known as 
 the conqueror at the battle of Lissa and the 
 capture of Cattaro. Theodore Hoste died at 
 Malta. 
 
 Many of the anecdotes current in Maltese 
 society referred to the Navy. There was one 
 concerning an Admiral, a man of gruff disposition, 
 who had come to Malta with his wife, a lady of 
 great sentimentality. It was related that she 
 always addressed him as " My Heart," upon which 
 the Admiral used to rejoin, " Your what . ? " 
 
 One must have lived in foreign seaports to 
 realise the cause of the popularity of the British 
 Fleet. All ranks are so invariably sociable and 
 obliging. Many years later at Corfu, when British 
 ships were in the harbour, I used to see men of the 
 Fleet helping the inhabitants to dig their gardens 
 and playing with the children. During the last 
 scenes, when the Assembly had been dissolved on 
 the question of annexation to Greece, I found a 
 lot of sailors shouting and gesticulating in the
 
 i SIR FREDERICK PONSONBY 5 
 
 town. When I asked the cause of this apparent 
 enthusiasm, the reply was, "We were told an 
 election was going on, and we thought we'd take 
 part in the fun." 
 
 The Governor of Malta was Sir Frederick 
 Ponsonby. His wife, Lady Emily Ponsonby, was 
 a daughter of Lord Bathurst. Colonel Seymour 
 Bathurst, grandfather of the present Lord, was 
 Military Secretary. His wife, later, as a widow, 
 had a house in Grosvenor Square, where she enter- 
 tained a great deal : it was the one now occupied 
 by Lord Haversham. 
 
 I knew the Ponsonby family well, and look 
 upon it as one of the most personally popular in 
 the kingdom. Through life I have met with much 
 kindness from them. 
 
 Sir Frederick had lost an arm at Waterloo, and 
 I recollect my astonishment at seeing his left 
 sleeve empty, sewn up to his coat. His sons were 
 very distinguished. One was General Sir Henry 
 Ponsonby, Private Secretary to Queen Victoria ; 
 and the other, Colonel Arthur Ponsonby, who, 
 having been aide-de-camp to Sir George Brown, and 
 afterwards holding a similar appointment with Sir 
 George Buller at Corfu, commanded a regiment, 
 and died when in that capacity. Both brothers 
 had, to a great degree, the family predilection for. 
 private theatricals and cricket. 
 
 They had an uncle, Lord de Mauley, who was 
 fond of telling the story of King William IV. 
 going to dissolve the Parliament which refused
 
 6 LORD DE MAULEY ch. 
 
 to ratify the Reform Bill. He told me that 
 William IV. had found himself opposed by being 
 told that there was no time to prepare the royal 
 carriages, to which he replied, " Then I will go 
 down in a hackney coach." 
 
 I find in a letter of Lady Emily Ponsonby's 
 to my mother the following passage relative to 
 Lord de Mauley, who had even more than the 
 usual kindly nature of his family : — 
 
 I am very grateful to you for your sympathy. Poor 
 dear Lord M. — he is indeed a very great loss to me. 
 I miss him in all my thoughts. No incident ever occurred 
 to me and mine that I did not find him liking me to 
 communicate with him. Losing such a brother-in-law is 
 a most sorrowful event to me, and I am now the last as 
 belonging to them. His dear boy Ashley had only left 
 him forty- eight hours before for the Crimea. Lord M. 
 had been ill for three weeks, but was supposed to be getting 
 much better, and there were no apprehensions at all about 
 him, when in twenty minutes all was over. Most fortu- 
 nately his daughter and Lord Kinnaird were in the room 
 when his fainting came on, which ended in death. The 
 doctor considers it was suppressed feeling. 
 
 Lord de Mauley had been the owner of 
 Canford, now the property of Lord Wimborne. 
 When he sold it to Sir John Guest for £200,000, 
 it is said that the latter sent an ordinary cheque 
 for that amount to him by post. 
 
 Lady Emily Ponsonby, on returning to England, 
 was granted apartments in Hampton Court Palace, 
 and there for many years I was constantly invited. 
 I often met her sister there — Lady Georgiana 
 Bathurst — and one of her brothers, Mr. William
 
 i 'KING TOM' 7 
 
 Bathurst, Clerk of the Council, who afterwards 
 became Lord Bathurst. 
 
 I have just seen a letter, written lately to a 
 friend by Lady Emily Ponsonby, which says that 
 Malta was associated in her memory with some of 
 her happiest days. 
 
 I can recollect the arrival in Malta of Dr. Davy, 
 brother of Sir Humphry Davy, and being very 
 much struck by the medal he wore, which was, in 
 fact, the Waterloo medal. 
 
 Amongst other people living at that time at 
 Malta was Mr. Locker, who had been, I think, 
 secretary to Lord Nelson. Mr. C. H. Smith was 
 his deputy in the Victualling Department. I also 
 remember a clergyman, named Le Mesurier, who 
 was afterwards appointed Archdeacon when the 
 Bishopric of Gibraltar and Malta was established. 
 The Chaplain was the Rev. Mr. Cleugh. I 
 met him and his daughter many years afterwards 
 on my way to Corfu, when I was appointed 
 Secretary. 
 
 There had always been considerable connection 
 between Malta and Corfu. Sir Thomas Maitland 
 was Governor of Malta and Lord High Commis- 
 sioner of the Ionian Islands at the same time, as 
 well as Commander-in-Chief of the Mediterranean. 
 I believe that he really started the policy, which I 
 see is now about to be adopted, of having the 
 Mediterranean as a basis. He is known in 
 Mediterranean history as " King Tom." 
 
 Among other residents was Miss Hamilton, a
 
 8 GIRAFFES 
 
 CH. 
 
 truly charming old lady, whose sister was, I think, 
 the wife of Lord George Seymour, and who was 
 either aunt or great-aunt to Sir Hamilton Seymour. 
 General and Mrs. Wood, who afterwards inhabited 
 Bath, and General and Miss Forbes all lived at 
 Malta. Miss Forbes married a French gentleman, 
 and died at Mont-de-Marsan. 
 
 I have a vivid recollection, too, of Prince Puckler- 
 Muskau, who very properly snubbed me as a forward 
 child, and of Mr. Schlienz, a kind-hearted German 
 clergyman, the head of a missionary establishment, 
 which, I believe, printed books for circulation in 
 the East. 
 
 The only lessons I learnt were from a Sergeant 
 Kerby, who instructed me, as far as possible, in the 
 three R's. He had a son, named Jimmy, who used 
 to accompany me in my lessons. 
 
 Two incidents made a great impression on me. 
 One was the arrival at Malta of some Turkish 
 ladies, who had, for some reason, sought refuge 
 there. I was taken to see them, and, having heard 
 that Turkish ladies could only see persons of their 
 own sex, was much astonished at their receiving 
 me. They were, I recollect, very kind and generous 
 with sugar-plums. The other incident was the 
 arrival at Malta of four giraffes, the first that had 
 ever been seen in the West. They were taken to 
 England, and were for some years at the Zoological 
 Gardens. One, however, died shortly afterwards, and 
 the Gardens possessed only the three survivors. 
 In connection with the recent announcement of
 
 
 ra 
 
 ^w 
 
 -:^- : 
 
 L 
 
 
 II. D. W. jct. 4*.
 
 i A GEOGRAPHICAL CHANGE 9 
 
 the birth of a giraffe at the Zoological Gardens, it 
 was stated that " most of the zoological gardens in 
 Europe have been supplied with giraffes in the 
 descendants of an original four which reached the 
 London Zoological Gardens from Kordofan in 
 1835." 
 
 Malta was at that time much less known to the 
 English than at present. Strange to say, it had 
 been transformed geographically through its acquisi- 
 tion by England. Previously it had been assigned 
 to Africa, to which it seems naturally to belong, 
 both from its topography and its language, really 
 a dialect of Arabic. Shortly after its annexation 
 by Great Britain, however, it appeared that troops 
 employed out of Europe were entitled to higher 
 pay than for European service. An Act of 
 Parliament was therefore passed declaring that, 
 for this purpose, Malta was to be considered in 
 Europe ; otherwise the garrison, in regard of pay, 
 would have been more privileged than the soldiers 
 in the Ionian Islands, who belonged to the same 
 command. It used to be said in joke that Malta 
 had become part of Europe by Act of Parliament — 
 a joke now admitted to be a reality. 
 
 The Governor of Malta in those days had only 
 the rank of Lieutenant-Governor, being, I suppose, 
 subordinate to the Lord High Commissioner of the 
 Ionian Islands. Of this, however, I am not quite 
 sure. In those days, and for many years after- 
 wards, the island was governed as a Crown Colony. 
 As will be seen, Sir Thomas Maitland had been
 
 10 SUMMER IN MALTA ch. i 
 
 instructed to assimilate the Constitution of the 
 Ionian Islands, supposed to be quite free, to the 
 administration of a Crown Colony. 
 
 We used to spend the summer occasionally at 
 Gozo, and often went to Sant' Antonio, the summer 
 residence of the Governor, which was memorable 
 for its rich crop of Japan medlars. At Gozo we 
 were once or twice accompanied by Miss Frere 
 and Miss Statyra. The Deputy Governor or 
 Principal Administrator at Gozo was Major Bayley. 
 We lived near or at his house, and I well remember 
 the good-nature of the soldiers of the small garrison 
 in making rough toys for me, and teaching me 
 games.
 
 CHAPTER II 
 
 Naples — Leghorn — Geneva — Acquaintances in Switzerland — Dr. Malan 
 — Mr. Henry Drummond — Schools at Richmond and Henley — 
 Gas-lighting and lucifer matches — Postage — Sir Francis Doyle — 
 Rugby — Masters — Schoolfellows — Mr. Matthew Arnold — Mr. 
 Lowe. 
 
 When I was between six and seven years old we 
 left Malta. I recollect the rather dirty Neapolitan 
 steamer on which we travelled. There was no 
 stewardess, but two good-natured Neapolitan 
 stewards, who made up for the want. They had 
 free access to the ladies' cabins, and used to assist 
 them in their toilet, even lacing their stays. 
 
 The first place we stopped at was Naples, which 
 made more impression on my mind than any other 
 town I have ever visited, owing doubtless to its 
 being the first place I had seen out of Malta. I 
 saw Herculaneum and Pompeii, and also Caserta, 
 where the King of Naples had his collection of wild 
 animals, and I remember being very much pleased 
 at chasing some kangaroos which jumped about 
 the garden. 
 
 From Naples we proceeded to Leghorn, where 
 Lady Harriet Hoste and her daughters were then 
 residing. We made several excursions, amongst 
 
 11
 
 12 SCHOOL ch. 
 
 others to Pisa, and I had until lately an alabaster 
 presse-papier, given me at that time, on which was 
 engraved a picture of the Leaning Tower. Amongst 
 other things which I recollect very vividly was the 
 appearance of an elderly gentleman sitting on a 
 balcony near the Arno. He was pointed out as 
 being the brother of Napoleon. It was Louis, 
 ex-King of Holland, and the father of Emperor 
 Napoleon HI. 
 
 I also made the acquaintance of some relatives 
 of mine, Mr. and Mrs. Craufurd. They were the 
 parents of Mr. Craufurd, for some time Member 
 for the Ayr Burghs. There were four sons and 
 two daughters, the whole family being then, and 
 later, active sympathisers with the Liberal move- 
 ment in Italy. All spoke Italian in preference to 
 English. I recollect seeing at their house in 
 London many years afterwards, at different periods, 
 Mazzini, Orsini, and once a Garibaldian soldier in 
 a red shirt. 
 
 From Leghorn we had an uneventful journey to 
 Marseilles, and thence to Geneva, where we lived for 
 about a year, and where I began my first experience 
 of school. 
 
 Geneva I always look back upon as one of the 
 pleasantest towns I have seen, and on the Swiss as 
 a kindly and hospitable people. We used occasion- 
 ally to visit M. and Mme. Saladin de Cran, who 
 had a beautiful place some miles from Geneva, and 
 in whose town-house we had what is now called a 
 flat.
 
 ii SWITZERLAND 13 
 
 At that time there was a great Evangelical 
 revival in Switzerland. I still recollect several of 
 the heads of that movement, amongst others M. 
 Merle d'Aubigne, the author of The History of the 
 Reformation, who lived at Lausanne, and at Geneva 
 itself, Mr. Gaussen, who had relations, I believe, 
 in England, and who had married a very amiable 
 English lady whose name was Milne. Their son was 
 my schoolfellow. Amongst my other schoolfellows 
 were two boys named Floyd, who were nephews 
 by marriage of Sir Robert Peel, and I believe, 
 though I am not certain, that the celebrated 
 French writer, Monsieur Cherbuliez, went to this 
 same school with us. 
 
 Switzerland has great attractions for children. 
 In the winter there was tobogganing, and, in the 
 summer, excursions on the lake and tours through- 
 out the country. At Berne, we saw Mr. David 
 Morier, the British Minister, father of Sir Robert 
 Morier, our late Ambassador at St. Petersburg. 
 Sir Robert was then a boy a few years older than 
 myself. 
 
 At Geneva there resided a Swiss clergyman of 
 very great celebrity — Dr. Malan — a gentleman of 
 some age, whose son subsequently entered the 
 Church of England, and had for many years a 
 living in Dorsetshire. Dr. Malan was a great 
 friend of Mr. Henry Drummond, my godfather, 
 whose acquaintance I made at Geneva when he 
 came on a visit to his friend. I recollect going to 
 two large meetings, one at Geneva and the other
 
 14 RICHMOND ch. 
 
 at Lausanne, held for some religious purpose in 
 connection with the Evangelical movement. I 
 Avas much impressed also with the appearance of 
 the Swiss army when it came out once a year for 
 exercise. I then found peaceable tradesmen dressed 
 in uniform and with all the appearance of warriors. 
 
 We left Geneva somewhere about 1838, and I 
 made my first acquaintance with England. We 
 settled for some time at Richmond, where I had an 
 aunt living — a lady who was born blind. I recollect 
 being very much struck by the gas-lighting in the 
 streets and shops, then recently introduced and still 
 a matter of interest. The master of a lodging- 
 house taught me how gas was made by means 
 of a tobacco-pipe, the bowl of which he filled with 
 coal-dust, covering it over with putty and placing 
 it on the fire. In a short time, gas enough was 
 generated to be lit at the mouthpiece. 
 
 Lucifer matches at that time were quite a 
 novelty. All lighting had previously been done 
 by flint and steel. At first there was a complicated 
 arrangement by which the lucifer had to be held in 
 a bottle of some preparation, which lighted it. 
 Rubbing lucifers were of later date. 
 
 Whilst at Richmond, I attended two schools 
 successively. I have found through life that my 
 frequent change of schools has had a great influence 
 over me, and while I have collected a good deal of 
 information, yet, in consequence of these frequent 
 changes, none of my knowledge is in a systematic 
 shape. One of my schools at Richmond was kept
 
 II 
 
 LADY SHAFTESBURY 15 
 
 by Mr. Delafosse, a clergyman of considerable 
 reputation, who had a large house on Richmond 
 Green. He was in some way or other favoured by 
 the father of the late Duke of Cambridge, who 
 used occasionally to dine with him ; but he left 
 Richmond for a diving at Shere in Surrey, near 
 Albury, which was the country residence of Mr. 
 Henry Drummond. There I met him frequently. 
 
 At Richmond, I constantly visited Lady Shaftes- 
 bury, the mother of the well-known philanthropist, 
 Lord Ashley. She was most kind and genial. 
 Macaws and parrots of every kind lived in her 
 conservatory, and she was also the owner of many 
 Persian cats. Through life I had constant proofs 
 of the kindly nature of Lord Ashley, later Lord 
 Shaftesbury, and the communication I frequently 
 enjoyed with his son, Mr. Evelyn Ashley, was one 
 of my chief pleasures in life. While writing I have 
 heard with deep sorrow of the death of my old and 
 much beloved friend. 
 
 I then left home for the first time and went to a 
 school at Henley-on-Thames, picturesquely situated 
 on the Fair Mile. It was kept by Mr. and Mrs. 
 Lamb. He, I believe, had been steward to Mr. 
 Childers in the north, and his wife a governess in 
 that family. It was a pleasant school, and as Mr. 
 Lamb, in addition to his scholastic labours, was a 
 farmer, we had twelve acres of fields as playground, 
 and were initiated into agriculture to a certain 
 extent. "Treading the mow" was one of our 
 occupations in summer. Amongst my school-
 
 16 AN OLD STORY ch. 
 
 fellows there was Mr. Spencer Childers, who was 
 killed in the Crimean War, having entered the 
 Artillery. He was very amiable, and, though it is 
 so long ago, I recollect the sorrow with which all 
 his friends heard the news of his death. We 
 generally used to attend the fine old parish church 
 at Henley, but occasionally in the summer we 
 were taken to country churches in the neighbour- 
 hood. One of them was at Remenham, which now 
 belongs to Lady Hambleden. I remember very 
 well a gentleman preaching at Henley Church who 
 had been with Bishop Heber in India ; but naturally 
 our daily life exhibited no great features, though I 
 occasionally visited Oxford to see one or two friends 
 of mine there. 
 
 I consider nothing in my recollection irrelevant, 
 and I may therefore here quote an anecdote heard 
 many years ago. A gentleman having a fine place 
 on the Thames, near Henley, had arranged to hold 
 the funeral of an old servant at his house. As the 
 procession was about to leave, another servant 
 came to him and said, " If you please, sir, the 
 corpse's brother would like to say a word to 
 you." 
 
 During the period of my early school-life, I made 
 the acquaintance of the late Mr. Milnes Gaskell, 
 who gave me his last frank the day before the 
 privilege was abolished. 
 
 Postage up to then was a matter of great con- 
 sideration. Envelopes were not known, and letters 
 were folded up on the paper on which they were
 
 ii LETTER-WRITING 17 
 
 written and directed on the outside. The cost of 
 postage was very heavy, amounting, if I recollect 
 rightly, sometimes to a shilling for inland letters. 
 It was considered discourteous to prepay your 
 letters. In consequence the recipients of letters 
 having a heavy postage sometimes declined to take 
 them in, and they were returned to the writers. 
 This was one of the reasons why, in the new Act, 
 letters, when not prepaid, were charged double to 
 the receiver. At first, instead of stamps, which 
 were a later invention, envelopes were sold with a 
 complicated allegorical design, which was much 
 laughed at. Cheap postage began, I think, at 
 fourpence a letter, but it was reduced after a 
 certain date to a penny. For a long time, however, 
 economy was observed, and I find from old corre- 
 spondence of fifty years ago, and later, that envelopes 
 were remarkably small — many of them not more 
 than four inches long by two wide. 
 
 In those days I made the acquaintance of Sir 
 Francis and Lady Doyle. Lady Doyle was a 
 sister of Mrs. Gaskell and a cousin of Sir Watkin 
 Wynn. I often met them in later life. 
 
 Sir Francis Doyle was a man of considerable 
 mark as Receiver-General of Customs, and a poet 
 of great merit. Talking of a lady who was in the 
 habit of abusing people with whom she quarrelled, 
 he told me that one of her methods of annoying 
 him was to send him letters to the Custom House 
 with offensive words on the cover. These were 
 naturally delivered to him by the office messengers. 
 
 vol. i c
 
 18 RUGBY oh. 
 
 On one occasion she addressed him as " Receiver- 
 General of Customs, however infamous " ; but he 
 took all this very kindly, and afterwards the lady 
 was decided to be out of her senses. He was a 
 relation of Mr. Percy Doyle, a gentleman well 
 known in the Diplomatic Service, of Colonel North, 
 and of General Doyle, at one time Governor of 
 Portsmouth — three brothers. 
 
 It is needless to recall all the schools I attended. 
 After a move to the Grammar School at Wake- 
 field, I went to Rugby, under Dr. Tait, afterwards 
 Archbishop of Canterbury. I feel it a great honour 
 to have received condign punishment at his hands. 
 
 Dr. Tait had only been nominated Head Master 
 about six months before, having then succeeded 
 the celebrated Dr. Arnold. My name had been 
 put down in Dr. Arnold's time, and I was sent 
 to a house, near the Schoolhouse, under the 
 tuition of the Rev. Henry Highton, a special 
 favourite of Dr. Arnold. I see by the papers 
 that Mrs. Highton has only recently died at 
 an advanced age. Mr. Highton w r as better 
 fitted to be a tutor a few years later than at that 
 period. He was very much what is now called 
 " up-to-date," and paid considerable attention to 
 the scientific acquirements of his pupils. Unfortu- 
 nately, science in those days obtained no marks, 
 and the time consumed in this study told very little 
 on the examinations. The principal text-book was 
 Joyce's Dialogues. 
 
 Mr. Highton was a great electrician. A brother
 
 ii SCHOOL FRIENDS 19 
 
 of his became one of the first electrical engineers, 
 and Mr. Highton himself was, I believe, the author 
 of some improvements in the electric telegraph, in 
 those days still undeveloped. I recollect seeing one 
 of the first models of the invention at work at the 
 Polytechnic Institute in London. Everything in 
 modern progress attracted Mr. Highton's sympathy, 
 and I remember when Mr. — later Sir Isaac — Pitman, 
 the author of a system of stenography, was on a tour 
 through England to advocate his invention, that he 
 gave a lecture to Mr. Highton's pupils at which 
 our tutor himself was present. 
 
 A well-known master at Rugby was a gentleman 
 named Anstey, commonly known as " Donnegan 
 Anstey," as the only punishment he ever gave was 
 to order a boy to write out so many pages of 
 Donnegan's Lexicon. 
 
 On the whole holiday which was given on what 
 was called Lawrence Sheriff's Day — Lawrence 
 Sheriff being the founder of the school — the boys 
 were allowed to be absent if any one invited them. 
 I used generally to go to Leamington by stage- 
 coach, passing Kenilworth and Warwick. I was 
 invited by Mrs. Hook, the mother of Dr. Hook, 
 afterwards Dean of Chichester, and a relative of 
 Theodore Hook. 
 
 One of my greatest friends at Rugby was the 
 late Sir Henry Wilmot, who obtained the Victoria 
 Cross in the Crimea, and who was subsequently in 
 the House of Commons at the same time as myself: 
 the other Avas Mr. Chaffey, who died young. He
 
 20 LORD SALISBURY ch. 
 
 came from Martock, in Somersetshire, and certainly 
 was one of the most kind-hearted and good-natured 
 beings I ever came across. I cannot pass over his 
 name. 
 
 I also made the acquaintance of Lord Bangor 
 and his brothers, whom since then I have had the 
 good fortune to meet frequently. 
 
 There were some notable pupils at that time at 
 Rugby. I am not certain whether Lord Goschen 
 was there at the same time as myself, but I fancy 
 he came shortly after me. Lord Cross had been 
 there before me. M. Waddington, afterwards 
 Prime Minister in France, was there, and I re- 
 member that, before French lessons, he used to be 
 surrounded by a crowd of boys to whom he gave 
 a translation of the portion set out for the day. 
 French lessons were of a rather summary descrip- 
 tion, and very Anglican ; in fact, French was even 
 less cultivated in those days at public schools than 
 it is now. It may not be out of place here to 
 quote some words of Lord Salisbury's, written on 
 May 23, 1883, in reply to some remarks I made 
 on the necessity of foreign languages being more 
 carefully taught in our public schools. 
 
 I have been long of the opinion expressed in your letter. 
 The extreme uselessness of the education of the upper 
 classes is deplorable, and in this day of keen competition 
 handicaps them heavily. It is always humiliating to find 
 how well Germans of the upper class can talk both English 
 and French. But the difficulties in the way of a change are 
 very formidable. The men who manage our public school* 
 have won their distinction in classics and seldom know any-
 
 II 
 
 'SHIRKING' 21 
 
 thing else ; and it is of little use to give a high position 
 there to masters of French or German extraction, for the 
 boys will not obey them. At Wellington College, which 
 ought to have been superior to mere traditions, the difficulty 
 of having foreign masters was found to be so great that they 
 gave the French mastership to the English mathematical 
 master — with what results you may imagine. 
 
 At Rugby, French was put on the same footing 
 as writing and arithmetic, which were supposed to 
 be acquired before boys joined the school. Arith- 
 metic was taught by an unhappy layman, who was 
 made rather a butt by his pupils. It was said of 
 him that he had asked leave of Dr. Arnold to wear 
 a cap and gown like the other masters, to which 
 Dr. Arnold replied, " That's as you like, Mr. Sale." 
 He then asked whether the boys ought not to 
 touch their hats to him and " shirk " him. To this 
 Dr. Arnold replied, "That's as they like, Mr. Sale." 
 
 It must here be said that "shirking" was an 
 almost classical term adopted in the school. Not 
 only the masters, but members of the Sixth Form, 
 called " praepostors," had the right of being shirked 
 — that is to say, lower boys, when walking out of 
 bounds, on seeing the approach of a praepostor 
 made a feint of running away. Thereupon the 
 Sixth Form man cried " On " ; but if the shirk- 
 ing were not properly executed he would cry 
 " Back." 
 
 These Sixth Form boys, who were approaching 
 manhood, had very peculiar privileges, amongst 
 others that of thrashing lower boys with a cane 
 which they always carried. The four praepostors
 
 22 SIXTH-FORM DISCIPLINE oh. 
 
 of the week kept order whenever the school was 
 being called over. They had their own regular 
 forms of discipline, and on one occasion, when one 
 of their body dissented from an order they had 
 made affecting the lower boys, the Sixth Form held 
 a meeting and censured his conduct as " courting 
 popularity among the rabble fags." 
 
 I do not know whether these rules still exist, 
 as, strange to say, I have never been at Rugby 
 since I left the school. When there, I was most 
 lamentably undistinguished. Being very short- 
 sighted, I was unable to take part in any of the 
 games, and that was enough to ensure unpopularity. 
 
 I have met many Rugby boys since I left, 
 amongst others Sir Richard Temple, Mr. Lawley, 
 and the late Mr. St. Leger Glyn. The two latter 
 were really the show men of the school, and were 
 generally admired, Avhen walking together, for the 
 brilliant way in which they were dressed. There 
 were three boys at Rugby who were all interesting 
 — Mr. Caillard, Mr. Tycho Wynn, and Mr. Basevi. 
 All three were related to Lord Beaconsfield. Mr. 
 Caillard I met later in life, but I have not heard 
 of the others again. 
 
 Owing to my having been at Rugby, though 
 younger than himself, I knew Mr. Matthew 
 Arnold very well in later life, and had the greatest 
 possible regard and admiration for him. In 1869 
 a question arose which to me was very interesting, 
 and which I do not think I shall be indiscreet in 
 mentioning. A proposal had been made that the
 
 ii MR. MATTHEW ARNOLD 23 
 
 Duke of Genoa should reside with Mr. Arnold, 
 while going through the school course at Harrow. 
 His parents did not wish him to go to an ordinary 
 boarding-house, and Mr. Matthew Arnold was at 
 that time residing at Harrow for the education of 
 his own sons. He did not himself like the task 
 of settling the terms on which the young Prince 
 was to live with him. Count Maffei, the Italian 
 charge d'affaires, wished to refer the question to 
 Lord Clarendon, or to Lord de Grey, then the 
 head of the Education Department. Neither, for 
 one reason or another, would interfere, but as both 
 Count Maffei and Mr. Arnold were friends of 
 mine, they left the decision to me. This I undertook 
 — I hope conscientiously— collecting such evidence 
 as I could of similar instances. I was told that 
 there was a case admirably in point. The Prince 
 de Conde, son of the Due d'Aumale, was put to 
 live in the house of one of the professors at 
 Edinburgh, while attending the academical classes. 
 My recommendation was based on this precedent, 
 and I am happy to say it succeeded admirably. 
 Mr. Arnold and his family were much pleased with 
 their inmate, and the royal family of Italy showed 
 great kindness to Mr. Arnold when he went to 
 that country, giving him a high decoration. About 
 that time I received the following letter from him, 
 written in Edinburgh : — 
 
 ... I suggested that he ] should speak to you as I knew 
 he was acquainted with you, having seen him talking to you 
 
 1 Count .Maffei.
 
 24 SARDONIC WIT ch. 
 
 at the Athenaeum. I have heard nothing from him, but see 
 him if you can. . . . 
 
 I tried much to see you last week, but you were away on 
 some of your sinister errands somewhere, and the Athenaeum 
 porter said your whereabouts were involved in utter mystery. 
 I hope you are now come back. 
 
 I am here to be made a doctor. In another hour the 
 fatal step will have been taken, and I shall be LL.D. 
 Tremble and adore ! 
 
 The objection alleged against referring the 
 point to Lord de Grey was the circumstance of 
 his being Head of the Education Department, of 
 which Mr. Arnold was an Inspector. 
 
 When Mr. Lowe was Minister of Education, 
 he introduced what was known as the Revised 
 Code. This elicited vehement opposition in which 
 Mr. Arnold joined with a pamphlet or letter which 
 was conclusive. On some one asking Mr. Lowe 
 what he thought of Mr. Arnold's pamphlet, he 
 replied, " Had Zimri peace who slew his master ? " 
 
 Mr. Lowe had a very sardonic wit, and, though 
 rather out of place, I must here instance some 
 of his observations. We were once speaking 
 together of a friend of ours, Mr. Bailey, who, like 
 Mr. Lowe, had once been a writer in the Times, 
 with respect to an appointment he had just re- 
 ceived as Governor of the Bahamas. Mr. Lowe 
 observed, " That is the place where pineapples 
 flourish in such quantities." I asked, " Is it not 
 a good appointment ? ' Mr. Lowe replied, " Man 
 cannot live on pineapples alone." His jokes were 
 almost always of the same kind.
 
 ii INSUFFICIENT COMPENSATION 25 
 
 The night before the defeat of the Government 
 of which he was a member, Mr. Lowe gave a 
 dinner to some friends, reciting, as a grace, the 
 words, "Let us eat and drink, for to-morrow 
 we die." 
 
 He was very fond of riding a bicycle, and in the 
 neighbourhood of his country-house at Caterham 
 lie unfortunately once ran over a man. It was 
 agreed that he was to give a certain sum of money 
 as compensation, which he did. Shortly afterwards, 
 the man found that the sum was not sufficient for 
 the expenses incurred, and committed suicide. 
 He left a paper whereon was written, " This is 
 all along o' Boblo." 
 
 Mr. Lowe, though a Minister of State, at one 
 time had some difficulty in obtaining a seat. Lord 
 Lansdowne therefore recommended him to the 
 electors of Calne, a borough practically under the 
 domination of Lord Lansdowne, and where, for a 
 long time past, there had never been anything like 
 a contest. One day, Mr. Lowe's Committee drove 
 from Calne to Bowood, and said to Lord Lansdowne 
 that Mr. Lowe had told them they were a pack of 
 fools. Lord Lansdowne, when repeating the story, 
 said, " I am convinced that Lowe never made use 
 of any such term, but I am equally convinced that 
 he said something which made them think he had 
 done so." 
 
 The story is told of Mr. Lowe attending a 
 Royal wedding at Windsor. I rather think it was 
 that of Prince Leopold. On his return to London,
 
 26 A GREAT LINGUIST ch. n 
 
 he travelled with his wife and several members of 
 the party in a saloon carriage. He inveighed 
 against the ceremonial and said that some parts of 
 it were absurd. When he married, he had to say, 
 " With all my worldly goods I thee endow," and, 
 he added, " I had not a brass farthing to give my 
 wife." Mrs. Lowe said, " Oh, but, my dear, you 
 forget there is your genius." He replied, " Well, 
 you cannot say that I endowed you with that." 
 
 Mr. Lowe was celebrated for his familiarity with 
 various languages. I do not know whether he 
 actually spoke them all, but he undoubtedly had a 
 profound knowledge of many. His friend Mr. — 
 afterwards Sir George — Dasent had penetrated him 
 with the beauty of Scandinavian poems, and Mr. 
 Lowe had studied Icelandic with a view to read- 
 ing some of them. 1 recollect being present at a 
 small dinner of Sir George Dasent's to meet Lord 
 Dufferin, after his return from Iceland. The talk 
 turned on Scandinavian literature, and Mr. Lowe 
 discussed some Icelandic poems, evidently knowing 
 them thoroughly and quoting them in the ver- 
 nacular. Of course I cannot answer for his pro- 
 nunciation. I have recently been told that, with 
 the object of reading some Jewish newspapers, he 
 set to work and studied Hebrew late in life, and 
 mastered that language, at all events sufficiently 
 for his purpose.
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 Bruges — Fellow-students — Holiday in the Ardennes — Friends in 
 Bruges — Amusements — Mr. Henry Drummond — Return to 
 England — Coaching for the Foreign Office — Musical studies — 
 Stage acquaintances — Recollections of theatres and plays — Early 
 Victorian young ladies and literature — Friends of my youth — ■ 
 Society — How debtors evaded arrest. 
 
 Being intended for the Foreign Office, which I 
 was likely to enter early, I was taken away from 
 Rugby and placed with a tutor in Belgium. The 
 tutor was the Chaplain at Bruges — a very pleasant 
 man who had begun life at Worcester, where his 
 father had been, I think, a canon. His son was 
 also a canon of Manchester. My tutor had a very 
 strange reminiscence of his boyhood. On one 
 occasion, being very small, he had climbed to the 
 top of the Cathedral tower in company with some 
 officers in the Army. One of them took him by 
 the leg and held him suspended outside from the 
 top of the tower, a tremendous height. This 
 terrible experience had never left his mind, and it 
 imbued him through life with a dread of going to 
 a great height. Another recollection of his was 
 the opening of the coffin of King John, when the 
 whole of his body, on being exposed to the air, 
 
 27
 
 28 A QUARRELSOME COUPLE ch. 
 
 though perfect for a few minutes, crumbled into dust. 
 Some one, he said, had taken the big toe of the 
 sovereign, and converted it into a tobacco-stopper. 
 
 In those days, the steamers from Ostend to 
 Dover took from eight to ten hours, and those 
 from Ostend to London, up the Thames, con- 
 siderably longer. In order to catch the latter, I 
 used to have to go to Ostend by a late train, as 
 the steamers generally left at about one in the 
 morning. I passed the intervening hours with a 
 gentleman who was in the employment of one of 
 the Steam Companies. I dined with him and his 
 wife, and they were most amiable to me ; but, if 
 my host happened to do anything which offended 
 the lady, she would pour out a volume of abuse at 
 him in the strongest language, whereupon he used 
 to address her as follows : " I wonder how you can 
 use such language to me. You know I am a 
 most desirable husband. I am young, good- 
 looking, agreeable, with splendid manners, accom- 
 plished, and highly educated ! You ought to be 
 on your knees all day thanking Heaven for giving 
 you such a husband. Instead of that, you make 
 use of this language before strangers ! " After I 
 had been at their house a few times I became 
 accustomed to this, and it no longer astonished 
 me, but it has always remained impressed on my 
 memory. On one occasion, when going from Dover 
 to Ostend, I was informed that the Comte de 
 Chambord was on board. I think he was then 
 generally known as the Due de Bordeaux.
 
 in A CHEAP TOUR 29 
 
 The other pupils at this tutor's I have since 
 known very well. There were Mr. Trevanion, who 
 subsequently married Lady Frances Lyon, and Mr. 
 Thellusson, as well as the late Sir Hedworth 
 Williamson and his brother William, whose parents 
 took a house for a short time in Bruges, so as to 
 be near their sons. It is impossible to forget the 
 attractive and kindly presence of Lady Williamson. 
 
 In summer, we used to take walking tours. 
 1 recollect one which lasted three weeks, and 
 cost a most extraordinarily small sum. We 
 went to the Ardennes, where the hotel prices 
 seem scarcely credible now. They took us in, 
 gave us comfortable rooms and very good food, 
 consisting of the Ardennes mutton, very like 
 Welsh mutton, bilberry tart and cream, and the 
 trout which we ourselves caught in the river, 
 together with a light French vin ordinaire. For 
 this they charged us at Dinant two and a half 
 francs each per day. At Neupont the charge was 
 only two francs ; while at St. Hubert, which had 
 greater pretensions to being a town, we were 
 charged three francs. This included a pony for 
 me as the youngest of the party. We also went 
 to Luxembourg, to Arlon, and then arrived at the 
 Moselle, where we took boat, first to Coblentz, 
 and then on the Rhine to Cologne. We after- 
 wards joined some friends at Aix-la-Chapelle, and 
 thence home, the whole cost of the journey being 
 150 francs each. 
 
 The winter at Bruges for a youth of my age
 
 30 MR. CHARLES LEVER ch. 
 
 was uncommonly pleasant. There were several 
 English families, established there either for 
 economical or educational purposes, who gave 
 frequent dances. One rich English gentleman, 
 Mr. Barron, had a large house, where he and his 
 wife were most hospitable. Mrs. Barron was a 
 sister of Sir Roger Palmer, and Mr. Barron came 
 of a commercial family domiciled in Mexico. 
 
 There also lived at Bruges, with his family, a 
 very remarkable man of great wit and versatile 
 disposition, whose name was Addison. He was 
 the author of several plays, and would have written 
 well had he taken a little more pains. Many of 
 the playwriters of the day were his friends ; so 
 also was Mr. Charles Lever, who, with his wife, 
 once came to stay with him at Bruges. Later, 
 I saw a great deal of Lever when in Florence, 
 and while he was Consul at Spezzia. He had 
 begun life as a medical man, and was for some 
 time Physician to the Legation at Brussels. Like 
 Colonel Addison, he was an Irishman, and gifted 
 with great intellectual powers. Charles Lever 
 and, in a lesser degree, Colonel Addison would 
 have been greater writers had they been less 
 inclined to amusement. Colonel Addison was 
 always turning up somewhere. At one time he 
 was a banker at Bruges ; at another he organised 
 in Ireland a political expedition to the Equator. 
 I believe that he really was the founder of a very 
 considerable bank in London, and he wrote one or 
 two books which were undoubtedly able, but spoilt
 
 in PUNNING NAMES 31 
 
 by haste and carelessness. Colonel Addison was 
 very good company. His conversation was one 
 continuous flow of jokes — some good and some 
 bad — but all making an impression by the rapidity 
 of their conception. I heard some one telling him 
 that within a few days two foremost English 
 brewers had visited Bruges. One, I believe, was 
 Mr. Whitbread, and the other Mr. Barclay. With 
 an exaggerated English accent, Colonel Addison 
 replied, " Taut mieux" He was a most amiable 
 man, and was always treated in a friendly way by 
 Mr. Thackeray and the principal writers of the 
 day. As I am writing, I learn that his son, a 
 King's Counsel and County Court Judge, who was 
 for some time in Parliament, has just died. 
 
 At Bruges I made the acquaintance of Dr. 
 Forster, a very remarkable man and a naturalist, 
 but somewhat peculiar. He was a great lover of 
 animals, and was convinced that there was a future 
 state for dogs. His wife was very much liked. 
 She was Miss Angerstein by birth. On one 
 occasion, at dinner, the guests were discussing the 
 origin of names. Dr. Forster, who was rather fond 
 of hearing himself speak, declared that his name 
 was derived from the French. Colonel Addison, 
 who was present, broke in, saying, " Oh, certainly 
 it is : faut se taire." 
 
 Our principal amusement was boating. Bruges. 
 which is now being made a seaport, was surrounded 
 by canals. We used to go by water to a town 
 in Holland called Sluys, where they gave us a
 
 32 A HEALTHY APPETITE ch. 
 
 luncheon consisting principally of brown bread and 
 butter, Dutch beer, and hard-boiled eggs. One of 
 our party had an enormous appetite. I recollect 
 on one occasion he ate fourteen eggs, but I cannot 
 remember how many glasses of beer he drank. 
 
 An unique experience of my lifetime occurred 
 while at Bruges. There had been great floods, 
 and all the canals overflowed. Afterwards a hard 
 frost set in, and all the country for miles around 
 was one mass of ice. We used to drive some 
 distance out of the town ; then, putting on our 
 skates, we spread our greatcoats, which served as 
 sails, and the wind would blow us rapidly along 
 the ice, sometimes for several miles, until we 
 reached the town. All we had to do was to stand 
 still on our skates, keeping our feet together. 
 
 While at Bruges, I was taken by a connection of 
 mine, General Craufurd, uncle of the late Member 
 for the Ayr Burghs, on a journey to Aix-la- 
 Chapelle, where we associated principally with the 
 family of Mrs. Beaumont, the mother of Mr. 
 Henry Beaumont who was not long ago Member 
 for one of the divisions of Yorkshire. With them 
 we took a short trip as far as Frankfort. 
 
 At Aix-la-Chapelle, I received the following 
 letter from Mr. Henry Drummond, whose real 
 kindness has never been sufficiently appreciated. 
 To me it was particularly striking. 
 
 October 12, 1844. 
 
 My dear Henry — This is your birthday, and I write you 
 a few lines to prove to you that you are not forgotten by 
 your godfather, and to inquire after your welfare. I do not
 
 in MR. HENRY DRUMMOND 33 
 
 know whether your mother is at Rugby or not. Pray do 
 not forget, when you write, to remember me most kindly 
 to her. 
 
 Write to me a few lines, and believe me always, with 
 fervent wishes for many returns of this anniversary to you, 
 yours very affectionately, Henry Drummond. 
 
 I once stayed with him for a long time at 
 Albury, and well recollect the kindness with which 
 he treated me, teaching me to fish, and advising 
 me as to my studies. His daughters were also 
 kind friends. The only son, Arthur, was ill of 
 consumption, and died young. 
 
 It is said of the member of the Drummond 
 family who bought the place, built the house, and 
 began the various improvements that had been 
 carried out in the village, that on one occasion 
 he showed the place to the king — which king 
 I do not recollect. His Majesty asked him what 
 the estate produced. Mr. Drummond replied, 
 " Cheques on Charing Cross, sir." 
 
 In Bruges, I passed two very happy years, until 
 the time approached for me to enter the Foreign 
 Office. In those days there were no examina- 
 tions, and I went to the house of the Rev. Dr. 
 Worthington, rector of a church in Gray's Inn 
 Lane, where I remained six months to study 
 history and matters of that kind, so as not to be 
 quite ignorant of them. While I was there, I 
 developed a desire to learn music, which has not 
 been successful. In fact, my acquirements only 
 consist in being able to play the National Anthem 
 with the forefinger of my right hand. I have 
 
 VOL. I 1)
 
 34 VAUXHALL 
 
 CH. 
 
 found even this useful, however, as a means of 
 giving tedious guests a delicate hint that they had 
 better go. For lessons, I had been introduced by- 
 Colonel Addison to Mr. Alexander Lee, a well- 
 known composer, who had written two songs very 
 much sung at that time : Come where the Aspens 
 quiver, and Td be a Butterfly. He was leader of 
 the orchestra at the Lyceum under the Keeleys' 
 management, and also leader of the orchestra at 
 Vauxhall. To the latter place I often accompanied 
 him, but at the end of the season of 1846 an 
 explosion took place, and the company exhibited 
 many grievances against the management. A 
 banquet was given to Mr. Lee by the orchestra 
 and the other persons engaged at the Gardens, 
 in order to present him with a watch, and this 
 banquet I attended. All classes of employes had 
 a grievance — even the low comedian related his 
 sufferings, by which, however, he moved us rather 
 to laughter than to tears. 
 
 Mr. Alexander Lee was married to a lady who 
 had been an actress, and had retired. Her name 
 was Mrs. Waylett. She had very interesting 
 reminiscences of the stage for many years. They 
 had a cottage in the middle of a nursery-garden 
 at Kennington, and there they were frequently 
 visited by actors of different kinds. In the absence 
 of many of my friends from London, I often visited 
 them and dined, taking with me a portion of 
 the dinner, such as game, or anything beyond their 
 usual fare.
 
 in NURSERY LYRIC 35 
 
 Mrs. Waylett used to sing her husband's com- 
 positions, particularly the two I have mentioned, 
 and often gave us songs out of what would now 
 be called " comic operas." I recollect one stanza 
 taken from Theodore Hook's opera, called, I 
 believe, Teleki. It ran as follows : — 
 
 Adieu, my Floreski, for ever ! 
 And welcome the sorrows I prove ! 
 O Fate ! why delight' st thou to sever 
 Two bosoms united by love ? 
 
 A lady who often came to the Lees' house, but 
 whose name I forget, used to sing in what was 
 then called an " arch " manner. This did not go 
 well with her appearance, which was decidedly 
 middle-aged. There was also a very melancholy- 
 looking man who sang comic songs. The contrast 
 between these and the solemn appearance of the 
 singer was most ludicrous. On one occasion, after 
 a sentimental ballad from one of the ladies, he was 
 asked to favour us. Strangers anticipated a most 
 gloomy representation of some painful sentiment, 
 instead of which, with the gravest face, he gave us 
 a song beginning as follows : — 
 
 A little cock-sparrow he sat on a tree, 
 He chirped, and he chattered, so merry was he, 
 He chirped, and he chattered, so merry was he, 
 This little cock-sparrow that sat on a tree ! 
 There came a little boy, with a bow and an arrow, 
 Determined to shoot this little cock-sparrow. 
 Determined to shoot this little cock-sparrow 
 Was this little boy, with his bow and his arrow. 
 
 I forget the rest of this lyric, but it was infinitely
 
 36 THE STAGE SIXTY YEARS AGO ch. 
 
 ludicrous, sung by a man with so lugubrious a 
 physiognomy. If the song still exists in the 
 repertoire of children, it may be a satisfaction to 
 know that it dates from, at any rate, the beginning 
 of last century, for it was sung to me in my 
 childhood. I have, unfortunately, lost the words 
 and music, which were given me a great many 
 years ago by a lady, who, had she now been 
 alive, would be about 112 years old. She told 
 me that she could remember it being sung when 
 she was a child, and always in the same gloomy 
 manner. 
 
 In my youth there were a number of actors 
 who struck me as remarkably good, and of whom 
 I entertain a vivid recollection. First, Madame 
 Vestris, celebrated for her singing of a very foolish 
 song called Cherry Ripe. Then there was a 
 pretty actress, who was very popular, called Miss 
 Julia Bennett. She played at the Haymarket 
 with Miss Priscilla Horton, who subsequently 
 married Mr. German Reed. 
 
 At the Adelphi was a mixture of farce and 
 melodrama, and there was then a really remarkable 
 company, the theatre being owned, I believe, by 
 Mr. Webster. Madame Celeste acted the most 
 heartrending parts with a strong French accent, 
 and there was a celebrated man called Mr. Paul 
 Bedford who had made one phrase his own, and 
 it was repeated all over London. This was, " I 
 believe you, my boy," and he was the singer of a 
 song very celebrated in my youth, called Nix, my
 
 in MR. AND MRS. KEELEY 37 
 
 dolly, pals, fake away. He was supported by one 
 of the most humorous comedians I think I ever 
 saw — Mr. Wright — and also by the most gloomy 
 melodramatic actor, who represented with gusto 
 and humour the part of an evil spirit, and who was 
 known as Mr. O. Smith. Mr. Wright, together 
 with Mr. Paul Bedford and Madame Celeste, made 
 the reputation of a piece which for a long time 
 was running on the stage, called Green Bushes. 
 
 At the Lyceum, Mr. and Mrs. Keeley used to 
 draw crowds by their wonderfully comic powers, and 
 I recollect a piece called To Parents and Guardians, 
 written by Mr. Tom Taylor, which had a most 
 extraordinary run. It represented a boys' school 
 in which Mrs. Keeley was practically the dictator 
 and Mr. Keeley the fag. Mr. Tom Taylor was a 
 most remarkable man and very popular in every 
 class of society. He had great humour, and was 
 a good official, being Secretary to some Board. 
 At the Lyceum was also Mr. Emery, a versatile 
 actor, whose descendants, I believe, are still on the 
 stage. 
 
 At that time the plays that were acted were 
 formed very much on the Georgian model, and in 
 the play-bills one used often to see " Mr. So-and- 
 So, with a song." The song was intruded in the 
 most irrelevant manner and had nothing to do 
 with the piece, but was a great attraction. The 
 walking gentlemen also were instructed to use 
 language very much like that of the fops in the old 
 plays. I recollect, when I had emerged from the
 
 38 MRS. WAYLETTS GUESTS ch. 
 
 pupil-stage which had made me seek this society, 
 going one night to the theatre with some ladies 
 whose good opinion I was anxious to secure. One 
 of the walking gentlemen — a former acquaintance 
 — meeting me going away from the box of a 
 theatre with a lady on my arm, approached me 
 with the fashionable manners of the stage, and, 
 flipping me with his handkerchief, said, " Introduce 
 me, introduce me." I do not know what answer 
 I gave him. At any rate he rejoined, in the same 
 fashion as before, " 'Sdeath ! you kill me, or may I 
 be freckled I" 
 
 At Mrs. Waylett's cottage, one frequently met 
 not only theatrical celebrities, but also writers, and 
 occasionally — though very seldom — Mr. Planche, 
 the founder of a new school of burlesque. I often 
 met him subsequently at Sir John Burgoyne's, and 
 I recollect two of his remarkably graceful and 
 striking compositions. One was The Invisible 
 Prince, in which the chief character was repre- 
 sented by Miss Priscilla Horton, and another was 
 called The Fair One with the Golden Locks. In 
 this Mr. Planche introduced a charming parody 
 of the Italian serenade Com e gentil. It began 
 " Comb it genteelly." Another of Mrs. Waylett's 
 guests was Mr. Charles Dance, a rival of Planche. 
 I recollect many lines from his productions also : 
 they were excessively good, and at that time in 
 quite a new style. In one of Mr. Dance's burlesques, 
 a father, represented by Mr. Keeley, expatiated on 
 the virtues of his son, and ended thus : —
 
 in PUNNING BURLESQUES 39 
 
 This hopeful offspring of a doting sire 
 Once chanced to thrust his finger in the fire, 
 And, finding that by far too hot to hold him, 
 He took it out again, though no one told him. 
 
 Mr. Talfourd, the son of Justice Talfourd, also 
 wrote some brilliant burlesques, and one pun of 
 his I always remember. Describing the life of 
 a man, he ended by saying : — 
 
 And like a detonator down he goes, 
 To pay the debt o' natur that he owes. 
 
 Amongst other writers was Mr. Albert Smith, 
 who, I think, afterwards married a daughter of 
 Mr. and Mrs. Keeley. He, with a gentleman 
 called Angus Reach, started a little periodical 
 somewhat on the model of Punch. It was 
 called The Man in the Moon. In it, on one 
 occasion, they had a forecast of a burlesque likely 
 to be given in the winter. It was the story of 
 King Alfred baking the cakes. He was supposed 
 to have been left in the house of a Mr. and Mrs. 
 Smith to take charge of the baking, which he 
 neglected, and he said : — 
 
 There'll be a row when Mrs. Smith returns 
 
 To this, which seems the land of cakes and Burns. 
 
 Mr. Reach used to pronounce his name Re-ach, 
 so Mr. Thackeray, meeting him one day at dinner, 
 said, " Mr. Re-ach, would you give me a pe-ach ?" 
 
 I recollect at this time how very different were 
 the movements of young ladies from what they are 
 at the present day. None of a certain standing
 
 40 YOUNG LADIES OF THE PERIOD ch. 
 
 were ever allowed to go out alone. If walking, 
 they were accompanied by a footman or their own 
 maid. They never went in cabs, or, indeed, in 
 any public conveyance. When travelling, they 
 accompanied their parents, either in their own 
 carriage, or in a post-chaise ; but they were cut off 
 from all general society by these exclusive habits. 
 I recollect very well when omnibuses were intro- 
 duced to go to Richmond and Hampton Court, 
 there were great debates among the inhabitants of 
 Hampton Court Palace whether or not they should 
 be made use of by persons of what is called 
 Society. The freedom which now exists, dates, 
 I think, from the development of railways, where 
 it is impossible to be exclusive, and where young 
 ladies sit near any one whom fortune may bring. 
 
 I also remember the High Church movement, and 
 then young ladies in Belgravia were allowed to go 
 to church in the morning and to walk about alone. 
 At the same time, the young gentlemen had also 
 taken very much to frequenting the churches at 
 the early services. A lady well known for her wit 
 was told that in that district young ladies walked 
 without a chaperon, and young gentlemen attended 
 the eight o'clock service. She replied, "Yes, 
 Belgravia is a country where all the women are 
 bold, and all the men are virtuous." 
 
 About this time, Gretna Green marriages were 
 still possible. A young couple, wishing to elope, 
 took a post-chaise to Gretna Green, the first town 
 accessible within Scotch territory. Here a marriage
 
 Ill 
 
 GRETNA GREEN 41 
 
 could be performed — under the old Scotch law — 
 merely by a recognition before witnesses, on the 
 part of the two persons interested, that they con- 
 sidered each other as lawful husband and wife. 
 One young gentleman ran away with a lady of 
 some position, and, on his way back from Scotland, 
 met a relative of the bride, who had started to look 
 for him. The bridegroom said to this gentleman, 
 " I am afraid you look upon me as a sad villain." 
 The other replied, " Oh no ! Only a d — d fool ! " 
 There was one celebrated elopement affecting some 
 of the greatest families in England. On another 
 occasion, a gentleman very prominent in politics 
 went off with a lady ; but it was rumoured that in 
 this case even a Gretna Green wedding had been 
 dispensed with, notwithstanding which a slight in- 
 crease occurred in the population. These marriages 
 were celebrated by a blacksmith who knew all the 
 formalities of the law, and many jokes were made 
 about forging the chains. In the last instance to 
 which I have alluded there were no chains at all, 
 and great was the scandal that consequently ensued 
 in what the papers call "the upper circles." It 
 ruined the politician's career, and, in spite of the 
 condonation of old age, the collaboratrice never 
 regained a firm footing in the cream of the cream. 
 
 In those days the reaction was nearly complete 
 from fiction of what was called the Rosa-Matilda 
 school, and Mrs. Radcliffe's novels. I well remember 
 the stories of that class then bought by school- 
 boys — wonderful mysteries, the adventures of forlorn
 
 42 MR. BORTHWICK ch. 
 
 and sentimental young ladies travelling with their 
 harps, and turning out to be the heiresses to 
 earldoms. One was called Fatherless Fanny, who 
 became Marchioness of Leamington ; another, 
 The Romance of the Forest. Soon after Sir Walter 
 Scott had made his appearance, a half-burlesque 
 novel was published, meant to ridicule the school in 
 question. It was entitled Hie Heroine. She was 
 the daughter of a farmer whom she repudiated as a 
 father, and whom she addressed as " Wilkinson " 
 till the Earl was to appear. I remember some 
 lines recited to her : — 
 
 Sweet sensibility ! Oh, la ! 
 
 I heard a little lamb cry, Baa ! 
 
 Says I, " So you have lost Mamma ! " 
 
 Ah! 
 The little lamb, as I said so, 
 Frisking about the field did go, 
 And, frisking, trod upon my toe. 
 
 Oh! 
 
 The Heroine was delighted. 
 
 At this time I made the acquaintance casually 
 of a gentleman to whom, throughout the rest of his 
 life, I was indebted for much kindness — the late 
 Mr. Peter Borthwick. He was then Member for 
 Evesham, and a Protectionist. At the election of 
 1845-46 he lost his seat, and Protection being then, 
 to all appearance, finally disposed of, he devoted 
 himself to the advocacy in the press of Lord 
 Palmerston's foreign policy. His son, Mr. Algernon 
 Borthwick, now Lord Glenesk, with whom I have 
 been since that date intimately acquainted, was at
 
 in CHANGES IN SOCIETY 43 
 
 Paris, where in 1847-48 he enjoyed the friendship 
 and confidence of Louis Napoleon. 
 
 I also saw a good deal of Sir John and Lady 
 Michel, from whom and from whose family I have 
 always received the greatest cordiality. Sir John 
 Michel was afterwards Field-Marshal. His wife, 
 who was a Miss Churchill by birth, was my some- 
 what near cousin. His daughter is Viscountess 
 Frankfort. 
 
 The world at that time was very different from 
 what it is now. There were some large fortunes, 
 but nothing equal to those recently accumulated in 
 America and South Africa. Society was on a much 
 smaller scale, bounded, as I believe Svdnev Smith 
 said, by Oxford Street on the north and Pall Mall 
 on the south. Kensington and South Kensington 
 were entirely out of the metropolitan limits, and at 
 Brompton, which was considered " off the stones," 
 the post was delivered on Sunday. 
 
 Society was very difficult of access to the 
 nouveaux riches. One gentleman, Mr. Hudson, 
 known as the Railway King, certainly achieved 
 for himself a considerable position during the 
 railway mania. He had a house in Albert Gate, 
 now in the occupation of the French Embassy ; 
 but the position he attained in Society was due 
 more to his activity in politics as a protectionist 
 than to his large fortune. I recollect his talking 
 of The Huguenots, which came out about that 
 time, as The Hook Nose. 
 
 During the season young men boasted as to how
 
 44 IMPRISONMENT FOR DEBT ch. 
 
 many balls they had been invited to in one night. 
 They would go on from one to another. 
 
 At that period debtors were liable to imprison- 
 ment, and many interesting stories were told of the 
 manner in which certain well-known debtors evaded 
 arrest. On one occasion, the sheriff's officers waited 
 the whole night in pursuit of a certain gentleman 
 of good family in London who was constantly in 
 debt. They had seen him enter Vauxhall Gardens. 
 Not wishing for a public exposure, they placed 
 members of their body at each door so as to arrest 
 him when leaving. But they stayed all night. 
 The Gardens were shut, and he had never appeared. 
 It turned out that his powers of persuasion were so 
 great that he had induced the aeronaut to take him 
 up in the balloon — which was one of the attractions 
 of Vauxhall — to drop him some miles from London 
 on the way to Dover, and to lend him sufficient 
 money to go to the Continent. 
 
 Another time this same gentleman, who was the 
 son of a well-known Member of Parliament, cele- 
 brated for his collection of antiquities and old 
 furniture, was traced by the sheriff's officers into 
 his father's house. They knocked at the door, and 
 found the father just going out. They told him 
 their errand. He said that his son was not in the 
 house, but that they were quite at liberty to 
 search it. This they did, but in vain. Some 
 days afterwards they found their prey, with whom 
 they were always on good terms, and asked him how 
 he had escaped from his father's house, as they had
 
 Ill 
 
 A COOL HAND 45 
 
 traced him in at the door, and waited, and had also 
 searched the house. To this he replied, " Well, I 
 saw you," and he then explained that, in order to 
 escape them, he had dressed himself in an old suit of 
 knight's armour that stood in the hall, and while 
 they were searching the house he had glared at 
 them, holding the sword in his hand.
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 Lord Palmerston — Handwriting — Appointed to the Foreign Office — 
 Comparison between Foreign Office of 1846 and present day — 
 Clerks in Foreign Office — Mr. Mellish — Mr. Hammond — Other 
 colleagues. 
 
 One day I received a letter desiring me to call 
 upon Lord Palmerston, which I naturally did in 
 great awe. He was at that time living at the house 
 of Lady de Clifford in Carlton House Terrace. I 
 well remember a picture in the dining-room, where 
 I was shown, representing St. Cecilia playing a 
 violoncello. My reception by Lord Palmerston 
 was kindly in the extreme. He asked me several 
 questions about my education, and, on hearing the 
 number of different places to which I had been, he 
 made a remark which was perfectly true — that I 
 had picked up what I could where I could, instead 
 of going through a settled course of education. He 
 desired me, however, to write him a letter giving 
 him my history, and to allow him to see my hand- 
 writing. About handwriting he was very particular, 
 and there are many stories told by Sir Edward 
 Hertslet and others of the severe comments he 
 used to make on agents of the Foreign Office 
 
 46
 
 ch. iv CHARACTER IN HANDWRITING 47 
 
 who wrote indistinctly or in a small hand. At 
 that time a good handwriting was somewhat 
 uncommon, but at the Foreign j Office it was con- 
 sidered especially good. That of Mr. Spring-Rice 
 was held up as a model. 
 
 Since then, handwriting has made great strides, 
 and the system of telling character from it has 
 been much developed. In France, where it is 
 called gi^aphiologie, it is supposed to have led to 
 remarkable incidents. A French gentleman, whose 
 veracity I have no reason to doubt, told me the 
 following story. 
 
 A new prefet had come to a town where the 
 uncle of my informant was bishop. The bishop 
 requested the prefet to employ some one in whom 
 he felt an interest. The young man in question 
 went to the prefecture and told his story, but was 
 asked to make his application in writing. 
 
 Some days afterwards the bishop enquired if 
 anything had been done for his protege. The 
 prefet replied, " It is impossible : he is an assassin." 
 This he said he had discovered from the young 
 man's handwriting, and added that the assassina- 
 tion was not of long date. It turned out to be 
 the case. 
 
 Of course I cannot vouch for the truth of this 
 story, but I may say that more than one French 
 gentleman to whom I spoke of it cast no doubt on 
 its correctness. 
 
 To return to Lord Palmerston. No one, young 
 or old, could resist his charm of manner, which
 
 48 AN AGREEABLE DECEPTION ch. 
 
 really betokened a very kind heart. When 
 appointed to the Foreign Office in 1845, on the 
 fall of Sir Robert Peel's Government, some of the 
 old employes had intended to resign, as during his 
 last tenure of office he had been somewhat harsh 
 and inconsiderate. On one occasion, he had kept 
 the Office at work for almost the whole night while 
 he was at the Opera, and while they were prepar- 
 ing for a special messenger whose despatches had to 
 be signed by the Secretary of State. On his return 
 to office in 1848 they were most agreeably dis- 
 appointed. A hint was given them that, having in 
 the interval married Lady Palmerston, his manner 
 had undergone a complete change. Ever after- 
 wards, under the influence of Lady Palmerston, 
 perhaps the most amiable grande dame who ever 
 existed, every one dependent upon him was most 
 devoted to his person and his interests. On October 
 22, 1846, ten days after completing my sixteenth 
 year, I was informed by Mr. Addington of my 
 appointment as Additional Clerk at the Foreign 
 Office, and on the 26th of the same month I 
 entered upon my duties. 
 
 The Foreign Office in those days was peculiarly 
 constituted, and had for many years undergone no 
 alteration. On the ordinary staff there was one 
 permanent Under - Secretary of State, and one 
 political. Now, in addition to these two officials, 
 there are three assistant Under-Secretaries. Two 
 Legal Advisers are now appointed to the Foreign 
 Office : in my time there were none. There were
 
 iv THE FOREIGN OFFICE 49 
 
 twenty -eight clerks on the diplomatic establish- 
 ment, of whom seven were Heads of Departments : 
 at present there are forty-four clerks, of whom eight 
 are Heads of Departments. The Financial Depart- 
 ment, which in 1847 had only one clerk, has now 
 five. There are five also in the Librarian's Depart- 
 ment, which formerly had only two clerks. In 
 those days there was a Slave Trade Department, 
 appointed to carry out the provisions of the 
 various Slave Trade Treaties : that has now dis- 
 appeared. A registry has been established, which 
 did not exist then. In addition to all this extra 
 assistance, there are thirty-seven Second Division 
 clerks, as well as nine lady typists. The staff of 
 Foreign Service messengers has been diminished, 
 but that of the Home Service messengers increased. 
 Altogether, the force of the Foreign Office has been 
 augmented to an enormous extent, compared with 
 former times. A considerable increase took place 
 immediately after the Crimean War, when the staff 
 was very much overworked. I recollect on one 
 occasion during that period that, having worked 
 nearly all Sunday, I went to the Office on Monday 
 morning at ten, and remained till ten at night. 
 The next day I went at ten, and remained till four 
 o'clock the following morning. On the Wednes- 
 day I went at ten, and remained till one the next 
 morning. In addition to all this, I had cyphers at 
 my own house for use when necessary at night, 
 the number of resident clerks being limited to two. 
 They are now four. 
 
 vol. i e
 
 50 LONG SERVICE ch. 
 
 Previously, at the beginning of the century, the 
 numbers were still smaller, and the clerks in the 
 Office worked personally with the Secretary of 
 State. Some of those I knew had worked with 
 Lord Dudley. They said that at a crisis he would 
 walk about their room as though in a fit of absent- 
 mindedness. He would then suddenly pick up 
 some scrap of paper off the floor and write out 
 a despatch. Everything now goes along an official 
 groove, and orders are conveyed through the 
 Un der- Secretaries. 
 
 The names of those who were in the Office at 
 the time of my joining recall almost the whole 
 history of the French Revolution and the Napo- 
 leonic Wars. Mr. John Bidwell, senior, had been 
 appointed in 1798. Mr. Thomas Bidwell resigned 
 in 1841 after fifty years' service. He had been 
 the clerk who opened nearly all the despatches 
 relative to the French Revolution, I believe includ- 
 ing the report of the royal executions. Mr. John 
 Bidwell accompanied Sir Robert Adair on his 
 Special Mission to Constantinople in July 1808, 
 and remained in the East till 1811. He was also 
 attached to Sir Charles Stewart on his Mission 
 to the King of Prussia in 1813, and on his visit 
 to the headquarters of the Allied Armies at various 
 places on the Continent. 
 
 There had been a clerk in the Office, Mr. Byng, 
 appointed in 1801. I recollect him well. He was 
 known in society for many years, and died only in 
 1871. He was commonly called " Poodle Byng,"
 
 IV 
 
 -POODLE BYNG" 51 
 
 but I never knew the origin of the appellation. 
 Lord Torrington was a nephew of his. 
 
 In 1824, Mr. Byng had been appointed to attend 
 the King and Queen of the Sandwich Islands on 
 their visit to England, where they both died. Mr. 
 William Bathurst told me that, at the time of their 
 death, a speech supposed to have been made by 
 the king to Mr. Byng was published by Theodore 
 Hook in John Bull. It began, "Oh, Poodly 
 Woodly ! Me eatee, me drinkee, me die." 
 
 The Head of the Department in which I was at 
 first placed was Mr. Lenox-Conyngham. In his 
 youth some accident had deprived him of his leg, 
 and at times he underwent intense pain. This 
 made him a little captious ; but he was a man of 
 the kindest instincts. He had married the daughter 
 of Mr. Holmes, an Irish Q.C., who was very much 
 mixed up with what is now called the Nationalist 
 cause. By her he had two children, a son in the 
 Diplomatic Service, and a daughter who married 
 Lord Doneraile and died only recently. Her 
 husband was killed by the bite of a fox. Mr. 
 Conyngham's son was very ill out in Brazil, and 
 his father, wishing to go and see him, under- 
 went an operation from the effects of which he 
 died on November 2G, I860, less than a fortnight 
 after the death of his son. 
 
 I fear that, with Sir Spencer Ponsonby-Fane 
 and Mr. Wylde, 1 am now the only survivor of the 
 Foreign Office as it was in 1846-47. Amongst 
 others who were there at the time of my joining
 
 52 A PUN ch„ 
 
 was Mr. Oom, a man of great humour, who be- 
 longed to the Canterbury Theatrical Company, 
 which I will allude to hereafter : he was designated 
 the " Apologist." He was known in the Canter- 
 bury Bills as Adolphus K. On the occasion of an 
 election at Canterbury, during the Cricket Week, 
 the town was placarded thus : " Oom shall we 
 elect ? Adolphus K." 
 
 There were also Mr. Staveley, who had been 
 employed at Paris in 1814, and was secretary to a 
 Commission appointed under the Articles of the 
 Treaty of Peace with France ; and Mr. Thomas 
 Lawrence AVard, a cousin of Lord Bangor, and 
 whose brother was a Secretary of Legation. He 
 had joined the Foreign Office in 1817, and had 
 accompanied Lord Castlereagh to the Conference 
 at Aix-la-Chapelle in 1818. He also was with Sir 
 Robert Adair's Special Mission to Brussels in 1831. 
 Mr. Louis Hertslet, the librarian, so well known 
 for his works on Treaties, had been appointed to 
 the Foreign Office in 1801. I very well recollect 
 meeting Sir Robert Adair at Holland House, 
 where, when I first married, I often spent some 
 days. He came in leaning on the arm of Lord 
 Granville. 
 
 It was to Lord Holland that Prince Talleyrand 
 addressed one of his best -known mots. Lord 
 Holland, then Mr. Fox, had just been attached 
 to Sir Robert Adair's Mission to Brussels. At a 
 dinner at Holland House, on the eve of their 
 departure, Prince Talleyrand made an address to Sir
 
 iv PRINCE TALLEYRAND S MAXIM 53 
 
 Robert Adair, and a separate one to Lord Holland, 
 treating the latter as if he were the Minister and 
 Sir Robert, the attache. In laying down several 
 maxims of diplomacy for Lord Holland, he ended 
 by saying, " Et surtout, point de zele" a maxim 
 which has been recognised as a fundamental rule 
 of diplomatic action. 
 
 One very marked member of the Foreign Office 
 was Mr. Mellish, who had been attached to the 
 Embassy at Constantinople in 1828 and 1830. 
 Formerly a Gentleman Usher to Queen Adelaide, 
 he had been sent by King William IV. to accom- 
 pany his sons, the FitzClarences, to the different 
 Courts of Germany. His father was one of the 
 old charges d'affaires at the Hanse towns, and his 
 mother was German, so that he really was more of 
 a German than an Englishman. He was a great 
 admirer of Mr. Canning, who had done much for 
 him, and of whom he had a store of anecdotes. 
 
 Mr. Mellish kept the correspondence relative to 
 the quaint and well-known cypher instructions sent 
 by Mr. Canning to Sir Charles Bagot, Ambassador 
 at the Hague. They ran as follows : — 
 
 In matters of commerce, the fault of the Dutch 
 Is giving too little, and asking too much. 
 The French are with equal advantage content, 
 So we'll clap on Dutch bottoms just twenty per cent. 
 Twenty per cent, twenty per cent, 
 ( horus of French douaniers: 
 
 Vous frapperez Falcke just twenty per cent ! 
 
 This was put into cypher by Mr. Mellish and sent 
 to the Hague. Some days afterwards a reply came
 
 54 MR. CANNINGS GOOD-NATURE ch. 
 
 from Sir Charles Bagot, saying that his Embassy 
 did not possess the cypher in which this despatch 
 had been forwarded. The cypher was therefore 
 sent by the next messenger, together with a 
 despatch from Mr. Canning saying that the former 
 one had only contained remarks on the recent 
 commercial negotiations. There was a very amus- 
 ing answer from Sir Charles Bagot, to the effect 
 that the Secretary of Embassy, Mr. Snape Douglas 
 — who, by the way, was very much in the world 
 during my recollection — when reading the despatch, 
 had observed that he was almost certain the cypher 
 alluded to the commercial negotiations. The lines 
 in question are pretty well known, and I only men- 
 tion these circumstances as coming from what may 
 be considered the fountain-head. 
 
 Mr. Mellish was constantly repeating acts of 
 great good -nature on the part of Mr. Canning. 
 On one occasion a special messenger was sent to 
 the Continent, and, after he had gone, Mr. Mellish 
 found that he had omitted to put in the bag the 
 principal despatch. He at once went in to Mr. 
 Canning to tell him of the mishap, in fear and 
 trembling. Mr. Canning, without saying a word 
 of reproach, replied, " Ring for another messenger." 
 His kindness ensured the devotion of Mr. Mellish, 
 who was a most warm-hearted man. 
 
 At one time Mr. Mellish had applied to Lord 
 Aberdeen for an appointment in South America 
 as charge d'affaires. This had been refused him. 
 Shortly afterwards Mr. Mellish met the lady he
 
 iv AMPLE COMPENSATION 55 
 
 subsequently married. No sooner had she accepted 
 him than he asked for an interview of Lord Aber- 
 deen, and thanked him for not having given him 
 the appointment for which he had applied, as he 
 had been so amply compensated. 
 
 Mr. Mellish was deeply versed in German 
 politics. Some one once asked Lord Palmerston 
 to explain to him the question of the Danish 
 Duchies. Lord Palmerston replied, " There are 
 only two people who understand the question — 
 myself and Mellish of the Foreign Office." The 
 other said that he thought Mr. Mellish was dead. 
 Lord Palmerston rejoined, " In that case, I am 
 the only person who understands the question." 
 
 After Mr. Mellish, who at that time was the only 
 
 decorated member of the Office, having received 
 
 the Order of the Guelph, came Mr. Hammond, 
 
 who played a considerable part in the history of 
 
 the Department. He was the son of a gentleman 
 
 who had also been Under-Secretarv of State for 
 
 Foreign Affairs. When I was first in the Foreign 
 
 Office, he was almost the junior of the senior 
 
 clerks. He had been attached to Sir Stratford 
 
 Cannings Special Mission to Turkey in 1831, and 
 
 to Spain in 1832, and was the Head of the Turkish 
 
 Department, which dealt with matters concerning 
 
 Russia, Turkey, Persia, Tunisia, Morocco, Egypt, 
 
 and Siam. Mr. Hammond was a man of great 
 
 perseverance, and had made himself completely 
 
 master of affairs dealing with those countries, and, 
 
 indirectly, with the world in general. At that time.
 
 56 MR. HAMMOND ch. 
 
 despatches of importance were circulated to the 
 Ambassadors in all important places. Consequently, 
 all Heads of Departments knew not only what 
 belonged to their particular branch, but indirectly 
 all that was going on elsewhere. 
 
 When the Crimean War broke out, Mr. 
 Addington, the Permanent Under-Secretary of 
 State, resigned his place after a most distinguished 
 career. It was felt that no one could succeed him 
 except Mr. Hammond. He, therefore, was practi- 
 cally charged with the continuity of the business of 
 the whole Office. In those days that business was 
 divided into two principal departments — one under 
 the Permanent, the other under the Parliamentary 
 Under-Secretary ; but all information of importance 
 was equally open to both those functionaries. It 
 would, therefore, scarcely have been possible to 
 overlook Mr. Hammond's claims to the succession 
 of Mr. Addington. 
 
 Mr. Hammond was a very curious mixture. 
 He might be designated, in the present day, as 
 bureaucratic, and certainly the interests of his 
 office were his first care ; but this did not prevent 
 great enlightenment, and his advice was constantly 
 followed by the Ministers of the day. While a 
 great stickler for discipline, and resenting errors 
 on the part of his subordinates, he was excessively 
 kind-hearted and just. No doubt, he had his likes 
 and dislikes, but these were never unnecessarily or 
 offensively put forward. He had great eccen- 
 tricities. When going with Lord John Russell
 
 iv BRIDGES TAYLOR 57 
 
 on his Special Mission to Vienna in 185.5, the 
 other members were much amused at Mr. Ham- 
 mond's peculiarities. He insisted on passing the 
 whole night in his tall hat, and only assumed his 
 travelling-cap when he got out of the train for 
 refreshments. He retired in 1873, and was made 
 a peer some months later, this being the first 
 occasion, I believe, on which a Permanent Under- 
 Secretary had been raised to that dignity. 
 
 My closest friend was Mr. Bridges Taylor, a 
 universal favourite and the confidant of many 
 juniors. He was the nephew of two men who 
 had been very well known in their time — one, 
 Sir Herbert Taylor, Private Secretary to King 
 William IV., and the other, Sir Brook Taylor, 
 formerly of the Diplomatic Service. I believe he 
 had been appointed Minister at a small Court in 
 Germany when he was only twenty-three or twenty- 
 four years old. 
 
 Mr. Bridges Taylor, besides being in the Foreign 
 Office, had been allowed to hold the post — almost 
 a sinecure — of Deputy Clerk to the Signet for his 
 uncle, Sir Brook Taylor, who was Clerk to the 
 Signet, an office now abolished. Mr. Bridges 
 Taylor was at one time attached to the Legation 
 at Hanover, where he married the daughter of 
 Sir Hugh Halkett, the generalissimo of the 
 Hanoverian army. He had thus come into con- 
 tact with the Royal Family, by whom Mrs. Taylor 
 was affectionately treated, and he was also much 
 favoured by all of them. Owing to an impediment
 
 58 FOREIGN OFFICE CLERKS ch. 
 
 in his handwriting from scrivener's palsy, he was 
 unable to work very hard, and he ended his days — 
 or, at all events, his official career — as Consul at 
 Elsinore, where he and Mrs. Bridges Taylor were 
 much beloved. 
 
 Mr. Huskisson was also a distinguished member 
 of the Office. He was the nephew of Mr. Huskis- 
 son, the President of the Board of Trade, and 
 Colonial Secretary, whose sad end is well known, 
 having been killed at the opening of the Manchester 
 Railway. 
 
 Later on the list followed Mr. George Canning 
 Backhouse, son of the Mr. Backhouse who had 
 been Under-Secretary of State. Then we come 
 to Mr. Wylde, son of the general so well known 
 in connection with Spanish politics, who had been 
 sent to Spain on missions connected, I think, with 
 the Carlist war. 
 
 Mr. Richard Wellesley was one of the most 
 amiable and popular members of the Office. He 
 was the grandson of Marquis Wellesley, and he 
 had an uncle who was the Principal of New Inn 
 Hall, Oxford. 
 
 Mr. Charles Spring- Rice was a son of the 
 celebrated Lord Monteagle, Chancellor of the 
 Exchequer. In the course of a speech in which 
 Lord Brougham was denouncing the Whig Govern- 
 ment, he asked whether the country was to be 
 governed entirely by Lord John This or Mr. 
 Spring That. Mr. Charles Spring-Rice, who was 
 among my great friends, was one of the most
 
 iv USE OF A DINNER-BELL 59 
 
 useful members of the Foreign Office. Before the 
 end of his service he was made an Assistant Under- 
 Secretary of State. He certainly was one of the 
 ablest men I ever came across, and I have always 
 been astonished that he did not make a more 
 brilliant career. He was gifted with great humour, 
 and the story was told of him that, when at the 
 University, some one with rooms above him insisted 
 on practising the piano nearly all day. Mr. Spring- 
 Rice was musical, and this was enough to drive him 
 wild. After remonstrating several times uselessly 
 with his neighbour, he proceeded to purchase a 
 \'ery loud dinner-bell, and whenever the gentleman 
 upstairs began his scales, he used to go to the 
 bottom of the staircase and ring the bell as loudly 
 as he could. This brought his adversary to reason. 
 
 Mr. Alston — subsequently Sir Francis Alston — 
 was an exemplary public servant. He was the son 
 of Mr. Rowland Alston, a long time M.P. for 
 Hertfordshire. Before he left the Foreign Office 
 he became Chief Clerk and Head of the Financial 
 Department. He was a man of extraordinary 
 official ability, and many small reforms are due to 
 his orders and sagacity. He was also high up in 
 Freemasonry, in which he was an expert. 
 
 Then followed Mr. Spencer Ponsonby — now Sir 
 Spencer Ponsonby-Fane — who certainly deserved 
 better of his colleagues than any one else. Always 
 sympathetic and encouraging in his office of private 
 secretary, first to Lord Palmerston and then to 
 Lord Clarendon, he was ever ready to do what he
 
 60 SIR SPENCER PONSONBY-FANE ch. iv 
 
 properly could for the sake of a colleague. Every 
 one had confidence in him and liked him. He 
 accompanied Lord Clarendon to the Congress of 
 Paris, and subsequently accepted the office of 
 Comptroller of the Lord Chamberlain's House- 
 hold, a place which suited him, 1 suppose, but 
 which, to my mind, was far below his claims. 
 His wife, whom he married early in life, showed 
 kindness to all, and enjoyed the same popularity 
 as her husband.
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 Colleagues in the Foreign Office — Under-Secretaries of State— Life at 
 the P'oreign Office — Hours of work — Private theatricals — Holiday 
 at Spa — Marriage of Lady Dorothy Nevill. 
 
 Mr. John Bidwell, junior, was the son of the Head 
 of the Consular Department. He was a man of 
 great wit, dramatic power, and physical agility, and 
 at an amateur pantomime given during the Crimean 
 War for the Patriotic Fund, at which the Queen 
 and the Prince Consort were present, he acted the 
 part of Harlequin in the most perfect manner. 
 Shortly after the performance he asked Lady 
 Waldegrave, who was a friend of his, to obtain 
 an invitation for him to a party at Lansdowne 
 House. Lord Lansdowne replied that he must 
 necessarily invite Mr. Bidwell, for, if he did not 
 come in at the door, he would probably come 
 through the window, or down the chimney. He 
 wrote light poetry, full of fun and brilliancy. I 
 recollect some lines that occurred in one of his 
 poems : — 
 
 With equal ale and equal stout 
 Fill high the pewter amphora ! 
 If fickle Fortune frown or flout, 
 We will not care a d — for her ! 
 
 61
 
 62 GOOD-TEMPERED COLLEAGUES ch. 
 
 On one occasion Mr. Bidwell was having a 
 discussion with a colleague, whom he accused of 
 putting too much work upon his — Mr. Bid well's — 
 shoulders, and thus escaping the proper share. 
 He ended by saying, " I'll tell you what it is. 
 You're what the Latin grammar calls an injusta 
 novercal 
 
 After him came Mr. Greville Morier, the son of 
 Mr. Henry Morier, who had for a long time been 
 Minister in Persia, but whose reputation principally 
 depends on the book that he wrote, called Hqjji 
 Baba. Mr. Morier had much of his father's wit. 
 His mother, nee Greville, was still alive, and most 
 hospitable at her house in Charles Street to her 
 son's colleagues. Mr. Croker Pennell was a nephew 
 of the celebrated John Wilson Croker, Theodore 
 Hook's friend, and he certainly was the best- 
 tempered man I ever came across. Mr. Wood- 
 ford, the son of Sir Alexander Woodford, was the 
 valseur of the Office, and no ball in London was 
 complete without his presence. Lord Gifford's 
 son, Mr. Scott Gifford, was very popular for his 
 great good-temper, which almost equalled that 
 of Mr. Wellesley. Mr. Vivian, afterwards Lord 
 Vivian, was well known, having ended his days 
 as Ambassador at Rome. 
 
 Mr. Forster was one of the resident clerks, and 
 used to give dinners in his rooms. He was a man 
 very much respected and liked, having been many 
 years in the Office, and an old member of the 
 Travellers'. He was the brother of General Forster,
 
 v OTHERS IN FOREIGN OFFICE 63 
 
 who for some time had held a permanent military post 
 in Dublin, but who more lately became Military 
 Secretary to the Commander-in-Chief. Mr. Forster 
 was very fond of fishing, and constantly used to 
 take a fishing at Christchurch, near Lord Malmes- 
 bury's house, Heron Court. I recollect a letter to 
 Lord Malmesbury, in which he signed himself 
 k ' Your humble Clerk/' 
 
 Mr. Blackburn was also a very well-known 
 member of the Office, rather celebrated for his wit 
 and repartees. I did not know him very well, as 
 for a great portion of the time I was in the Office 
 he was absent from ill-health. 
 
 On one occasion we were talking of a foreign 
 statesman who had married an Englishwoman 
 named Miss Birch. Mr. Blackburn said that he 
 understood she was the daughter of Birch, the 
 City pastry-cook of turtle fame. I replied that 
 such was not the case ; that she was of consider- 
 able birth, rather highly connected, and no relation 
 whatever to the pastry-cook. Thereupon Mr. Black- 
 burn said, " I had a soup^on that she was." 
 
 Working in the Foreign Office as an attache was 
 Mr. Ralph Anstruther Earle. He had distinguished 
 himself at Harrow, especially in English compo- 
 sition, and Lord Clarendon had in consequence 
 offered him an appointment in the Diplomatic 
 Service. Foreign affairs and Parliamentary life 
 formed his great preoccupation. I saw a great deal 
 of him and liked him very much, though he was 
 not generally popular on account of a reserved
 
 64 A DETERMINED SECRETARY ch. 
 
 manner. Mr. and Mrs. Disraeli made his acquaint- 
 ance in Paris, and were much struck by him, and 
 when the Conservative party came into power 
 in 1858 Mr. Earle was appointed Mr. Disraelis 
 private secretary. In this capacity he lived very 
 much at his chief's house, and made himself useful 
 in Parliamentary matters, which he thoroughly 
 understood. 
 
 In 1866 Mr. Earle became a Member of 
 Parliament, and Mr. Disraeli, on acceding to office, 
 gave him the Secretaryship to the Poor Law Board, 
 a post no longer existing. Thinking that this 
 appointment, which entailed no great labour, was 
 given him so that he might combine his Secretarial 
 with his Parliamentary work, Mr. Earle used to go 
 daily to see his chief. Mr. Disraeli, however, having 
 appointed another private secretary — Lord Rowton 
 — wished to dispense with Mr. Earle' s services, and 
 did not welcome these continual visits. The result 
 was that Mr. Earle resigned his post, and in Parlia- 
 ment showed his resentment by voting and some- 
 times speaking against Mr. Disraeli. At length 
 he made an especially violent attack on the Prime 
 Minister, and this put an end to his career. 
 
 Mr. James Murray was also in the Foreign 
 Office, at the head of the Consular Department for 
 some time, and then Head of the German Depart- 
 ment. He subsequently became Assistant Under- 
 Secretary of State. Though born abroad, he was 
 of Scotch origin, and this he was fond of proclaim- 
 ing on every possible occasion. It was currently
 
 v UNDER-SECRETARIES 65 
 
 reported in the Office that at a country place he 
 possessed somewhere near Uxbridge, he was to be 
 seen in the very early morning digging in his 
 garden, and dressed in a kilt. 
 
 During the time I was in the Foreign Office, I 
 naturally served under several Political Under- 
 Secretaries of State, all of them men of great 
 eminence. The first was Lord Stanley of Alderley, 
 at that time Mr. Stanley, and generally known in 
 the world — for what reason I do not know — as 
 Ben Stanley. Lord Kimberley I knew privately, 
 and he certainly, during the tenure of his office 
 as Under-Secretary, was most popular and made 
 for himself a great name. On this account 
 he was chosen by the Government to occupy 
 the post of Minister at St. Petersburg at the 
 time of the reconciliation after the Russian War. 
 He was followed, I think, by Lord Shelburne, 
 who had never taken a very active part in politics, 
 for which, however, he was highly qualified. 
 
 Mr. Layard was a man whose reputation is too 
 well known to need any tribute or discussion. Mr. 
 Seymour FitzGerald, who had for a long time been 
 a Member of Parliament, was the Conservative 
 Under-Secretary under Lord Malmesbury. He 
 was a man of great Parliamentary tact and know- 
 ledge. Later on he was made Governor of Bombay, 
 and on his return to England again entered Parlia- 
 ment, which he finally quitted on being appointed 
 a principal Charity Commissioner. 
 
 At that time the Foreign Office was more like 
 vol. r P
 
 66 CONFIDENTIAL WORK ch. 
 
 a convent of Benedictines — men of intelligence, but 
 separated from the world by the nature of their 
 employment. The work they had to do was 
 essentially confidential, and therefore did not bring 
 them much into contact with other offices. In fact, 
 the humblest clerk in the Office was necessarily 
 entrusted with information to which scarcely any- 
 one could have access except a Cabinet Minister. 
 
 On one occasion the original of a Treaty had 
 been published in a morning paper, together with 
 the English translation. This produced great agita- 
 tion, for it seemed as though blame would be laid 
 on the Foreign Office. Lord Palmerston, however, 
 discovered the secret of its publication. When 
 a treaty is drawn up between several nations, each 
 is mentioned first in its own copy, and the others 
 are placed alphabetically. When Lord Palmer- 
 ston saw the published copy, he at once detected 
 the quarter whence it came by the name that 
 came first, the others being, as usual, in alphabetical 
 order. I believe that Lord Palmerston mentioned 
 this circumstance in the House of Commons, in 
 proof of the rigid secrecy kept by the Foreign 
 Office. 
 
 The hours of the Office were different from 
 ordinary official attendance. As the clerks had to 
 remain very late, in order to catch the last mail 
 which left about eight o'clock, they went late in the 
 morning, not much before one o'clock, and this dis- 
 organisation of the ordinary times of employment 
 threw them very much into each other's society.
 
 v AN AWKWARD MISTAKE 67 
 
 They all lived together, especially in the old office 
 in Downing Street, which consisted of two houses, 
 15 and 16, the latter having been the Foreign 
 Office, and 15 the residence of the Foreign Secretary. 
 Mr. Canning had lived there, and one room at 
 the top of the house — used as a smoking-room — 
 was called "the nursery," having belonged to 
 Mr. Canning's children. It possessed a piano, 
 Mr. Wellesley, Mr. Woodford, and others being 
 good musicians. 
 
 When I was first at the Foreign Office, smoking 
 was tabooed, as it was distasteful to Lord Palmerston. 
 Subsequently, however, on the accession to office 
 of Lord Clarendon, who was himself a great smoker, 
 the prohibition of tobacco was relaxed, and smoking 
 became universal. It is said that one day, by mis- 
 take, a despatch-box, addressed to very high quarters, 
 was found to contain some of Lord Clarendon's 
 cigarettes. 
 
 Many of the members of the Office belonged 
 to the Travellers' Club, where they used to dine 
 together, members of other clubs doing the same ; 
 but during the dead season, when most clubs were 
 under repair, they used to dine in small parties, 
 often at the " Blue Posts " in Cork Street, well 
 known for its beef-steaks and port-wine, and in later 
 years at the " Wellington" in St. James's Street. In 
 those days there were few restaurants, and none, 
 except Yerrey's in Regent Street, where a lady 
 could dine. The St. James's Club, of which I am 
 an original member, was only founded, I think, in
 
 68 PRIVATE THEATRICALS ch. 
 
 1859, and this provided a resort for all members of 
 the Foreign Office and the Diplomatic Service. 
 
 The work at the Foreign Office, as already 
 mentioned, was really hard ; but since the numbers 
 have been increased, and typists have been employed, 
 I scarcely think that such great pressure can still 
 exist. 
 
 Shortly before 1 joined the Office, it had been 
 the habit of some of the clerks, during the dead 
 season, to hire a cottage in the country, where they 
 lived, coming up for their work and going down in 
 the evening. But this I do not recollect. At one 
 time Mr. Spencer Ponsonby undertook the manage- 
 ment of the cottage. He showed me a bill addressed 
 to " Sponsonberry, Esq." 
 
 The principal amusement of the members of the 
 Foreign Office was private theatricals. A society 
 had been got up called the Canterbury Old Stagers. 
 An interesting history of this society is to be found 
 in a book called Amateur Clubs and Actors, edited 
 by W. G. Elliot. It was founded in 1841, I 
 believe, by Mr. Frederick Ponsonby, and Mr. 
 Spencer Ponsonby was always a foremost member. 
 The book to which I allude contains an illustration 
 representing Sir Spencer Ponsonby-Fane, Sir Henry 
 de Bathe, and Mr. Quintin Twiss as they acted in 
 Cox and Box. 
 
 Among the gentlemen who rather frequented 
 Foreign Office society was a young Guardsman, 
 whose principal quality was that of greediness. 
 One day at the Tower he was president of the mess,
 
 v HOLIDAY AT SPA 69 
 
 and ordered some small cutlets of which he was 
 particularly fond. They were handed first to the 
 gentleman on his left. There were only three 
 cutlets left in the dish by the time it came round 
 to the president's right-hand neighbour, and that 
 gentleman took all three. 
 
 Two large tears were seen rolling down the 
 Guardsman's cheeks. 
 
 I generally used to spend my two months' holi- 
 day on a trip abroad. My first was taken in 1847, 
 when I accompanied Lord and Lady Pollington. 
 We had intended to go farther, but we found Spa 
 so pleasant that we remained there four or five 
 weeks. Our great amusement was riding out in 
 the day on little Spa ponies, while at night there 
 was a theatre, a dance, or the roulette. There I 
 made the acquaintance of Sir Henry and Lady 
 Bedingfeld, and of the Marquis and Marquise de 
 Belmont, who afterwards were attached to the 
 Emperor Napoleon's household, besides various 
 persons whose names I do not remember. There 
 were two or three English gentlemen : one of them, 
 who was very popular, underwent the somewhat 
 painful experience of being arrested for debt. He 
 was taken to the prison at Verviers, and for the rest 
 of our stay at Spa we used generally to breakfast at 
 the hotel at Verviers, and pay a visit to our friend. 
 
 In 184-7, Lady Dorothy Walpole was married 
 at Wolterton to Mr. Reginald Nevill, who was 
 already a distant cousin. There was a great gather- 
 ing, and the wedding-feast included, as is usual in
 
 70 A FAT LIVING ch. v 
 
 Norfolk, a pea-hen and a gosling. The ceremony 
 was performed by the Reverend Thomas Walpole, 
 Rector of Alverstoke, the head of the family next 
 in succession after the present line. He was assisted 
 by the Reverend Algernon Peyton, who had married 
 a cousin of the family and who held the living 
 of Doddington, then the richest in England, being 
 worth about £7000 a year. As the Crown has the 
 right of nomination to any living vacated by the 
 incumbent being made a bishop, the Rector of 
 Doddington, on accepting the living, was bound to 
 sign an undertaking that he would never accept a 
 bishopric. The living has since been divided.
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 
 London friends — Sir John Burgoyne — Mr. Disraeli — Other acquaint- 
 ances — Mr. Hayward's anecdotes — Waterloo banquet — Foreign 
 Office stories — Places of amusement. 
 
 Amongst other persons with whom I was acquainted, 
 and who was very much in the world, was Mr. Jesse, 
 the author of the History of England under the 
 House of Hanover. He was high up in the 
 Admiralty, and was the son of the author of a 
 natural history book called Jesse's Gleanings. A 
 great friend of his was Mr. John Wilson Croker, 
 the well-known Conservative statesman, about this 
 time engaged in an animated controversy with Lord 
 John Russell concerning the poet Moore. Mr. 
 Jesse had been well acquainted with Theodore 
 Hook, who Avas an habitual frequenter of Mr. 
 Croker's house, where, on one occasion, having in- 
 dulged a little freely at dinner, Mrs. Croker said to 
 him, while playing at whist, "We have known each 
 other so long that I am sure you will forgive me 
 for asking you to read this little pamphlet." It 
 was a tract. 
 
 Theodore Hook, stopping in his deal, took the 
 
 71
 
 72 LINK WITH THE PAST ch. 
 
 pamphlet, and answered, " Oh yes ! I know this. 
 I've read it. I've reviewed it. ' Three words to 
 one who drinks.' It's ' Pass the bottle ' ! " 
 
 This anecdote was related to me by Mr. Jesse, 
 who had actually heard it. The story may be well 
 known, but I should never hesitate to relate anec- 
 dotes if told me by those who had learned them 
 first-hand. 
 
 I was very dull during my first winter in London 
 until my friends came up for the following season ; 
 but I constantly went to the house of the Chevalier 
 de Bunsen, in Carlton Terrace, not far from the 
 Foreign Office. He and his wife were always very 
 hospitable and good to me. She was the aunt of 
 M. Waddington, with whom I had been at Rugby, 
 and at her house I met other members of the family 
 — Lady Llanover, and many whose names I forget. 
 There I used very often to meet the family of Baron 
 Alderson, especially the eldest of his daughters, after- 
 wards Lady Salisbury. One of her sisters married 
 a friend of mine, Mr. Walter Cocks. 
 
 Another house that I constantly visited was 
 that of Lady Tankerville, with whose relative, 
 Mr. George Wrottesley — now General Wrottesley — 
 I was intimate. He was an officer in the Engineers, 
 and, as we lived very much together, he introduced 
 me to the house of Sir John Burgoyne, then In- 
 spector-General of Fortifications, son of General 
 Burgoyne of Saratoga. This brings us back to 
 October 1777, the date of the surrender of General 
 Burgoyne and his army. Wrottesley subsequently
 
 vi TRUE HOSPITALITY 73 
 
 went as A.D.C. to Sir John in the Crimea, and 
 married his eldest daughter. 
 
 Mrs. Wrottesley had most remarkable gifts as an 
 actress, and, at her father's house in Fulham, theatri- 
 cals were frequently performed. She also used to 
 act sometimes at the house of Mr. Wolley, at Camp- 
 den Hill, where a regular theatre had been built. 
 It was a charming old house, which I recollected as 
 a young ladies' school where some cousins of mine 
 were educated. It was ultimately burnt down, and 
 the fire formed the subject of an action at law with 
 the insurance companies. 
 
 Sir John and Lady Burgoyne kept the most 
 hospitable house I recollect. Every one who was a 
 friend of the family had a general invitation to 
 dinner, and the society was most agreeable. I met 
 there Mr. Ashe, certainly one of the wittiest men 
 and cleverest actors I ever came across. He had 
 been employed in some civil capacity under Sir 
 John in Ireland, and was brought by him to 
 London. He had wonderful powers of comic 
 improvisation. 
 
 Sir John Burgoyne, as Inspector-General of 
 Fortifications, was Chief of the Royal Engineers. 
 In this capacity, he encouraged all the young men 
 of the corps to frequent his house. On one occa- 
 sion, the study of foreign languages was being dis- 
 cussed, and the conversation fell into French. A 
 lady present made some very acute remark on the 
 value of the language, so a young man, bursting 
 with ambition, replied, " Vou.s tics unc sagefemme /"
 
 74 'YOURS VERY TRULY' ch. 
 
 The difficulty for those not familiar with French 
 to avoid literal translation is often ludicrous. I 
 knew an official of considerable rank who, when 
 writing to a foreigner, always subscribed himself 
 " Votre tr*es vraimcnt." 
 
 Unfortunately, a coolness had sprung up between 
 Sir John Burgoyne and the Duke of Wellington. 
 The latter had written to Sir John commenting on 
 the want of preparation for war. This letter, 
 through some unfortunate circumstance, had fallen 
 into the hands of a lady who lived near Sir 
 John Burgoyne at Fulham, and it came into the 
 possession of the press. The letter made a great 
 sensation at the time, and was the basis of a long 
 discussion. Notwithstanding Sir John's explana- 
 tions, the breach between the Duke and himself 
 was never repaired. 
 
 One of the daughters of the house married a 
 gentleman named Gretton, who received a consular 
 appointment in Hayti. On their arrival, they both 
 died of yellow fever, leaving one little baby quite 
 unprotected. Sir John Burgoyne had seven 
 daughters, I think, and one son, a promising 
 naval officer, who went down when the Captain 
 foundered. 
 
 At that time I also made the acquaintance of 
 Mr. and Mrs. Disraeli, who were great friends of 
 my uncle and aunt, Lord and Lady Orford, and 
 of their daughters, Lady Pollington and Lady 
 Dorothy Walpole — now Lady Dorothy Nevill. 
 Lord Pollington, who had been returned to
 
 vi MR. DISRAELI 15 
 
 Parliament before he was of age, was a very 
 strong Conservative. 
 
 Mr. Disraeli used generally to walk home from 
 the House of Commons, usually in the society of 
 Lord Henry Lennox. One night, rather late, I 
 was in the neighbourhood of Whitehall, as the 
 House was breaking up, and I met Mr. Disraeli 
 alone. He asked me to accompany him, and we 
 canvassed the prospects of the Government. I 
 said to him, as there was some talk of the Govern- 
 ment resigning, " I suppose that some day, in 
 the ordinary course of things, you will be Prime 
 Minister." He answered, " In the extraordinary 
 course of things." 
 
 Between 1847 and 1852 I generally used to call 
 upon Mr. and Mrs. Disraeli every Sunday, and 
 sometimes had luncheon with them. On one 
 occasion I met M. and Mme. Adolphe Barrot. He 
 was a brother of M. Odillon Barrot, and at that 
 time, I think, French Agent in Egypt. I met him 
 frequently afterwards, first at Naples where he was 
 Minister, and then at Brussels. Madame Barrot 
 was English by birth. 
 
 At Mr. Disraeli's house, 1 also made the acquaint- 
 ance of Mr. James Disraeli and Mr. Ralph Disraeli. 
 Mr. James Disraeli was not married, though the 
 elder of the two ; but Mr. Ralph Disraeli had a son 
 by his marriage with Miss Trevor— Mr. Coningsby 
 Disraeli, who was until lately in Parliament. 
 
 About that time I became acquainted with the 
 celebrated Mr. Alfred Montgomery, remarkable
 
 76 TAKING A LIBERTY ch. 
 
 for his popularity in all good society, and for his 
 wit. I used to dine with him and his sister at 
 their house in Chesterfield Street. His conversation 
 was most amusing, as he always gave some quaint 
 turn to everything he said. Once we were dis- 
 cussing a murder which had attracted a great deal 
 of attention, the murderer having assassinated his 
 victim when dining with him at his house. Mr. 
 Montgomery said to me, with the little stutter 
 which gave point to his observations, " I wonder 
 how you would begin murdering a man at his own 
 table. I should not know how to do so. It 
 would appear to me to be taking such a liberty." 
 
 I also knew very well Mr. Baillie Cochrane. 
 He had been one of the prominent members of 
 what was called the Young England Party, in 
 which he was associated with Lord John Manners, 
 Mr. George Smythe, Mr. Hope, and others. M em- 
 bers of this party were distinguished by wearing 
 white neckcloths at a time when they were not in 
 fashion. I saw a great deal later on of Mr. Baillie 
 Cochrane. He was raised to the peerage as Lord 
 Lamington, and was the father of the present peer, 
 a distinguished Colonial Governor. 
 
 Another acquaintance of mine was Mr. Stirling 
 of Keir, afterwards Sir John Stirling-Maxwell of 
 Keir, principally known for his books on Spanish 
 history. Many years later, when I was Ambassador 
 in Spain, his son came to present copies of his works 
 to the Historical Society at Madrid, of which his 
 father had been a member. He was received with
 
 vi MARTIN FARQUHAR TUPPER 77 
 
 great cordiality by Senor Canovas del Castillo, the 
 President of the Society, who was assassinated not 
 long afterwards. 
 
 Among my particular friends was Mr. Hayward, 
 a man who just missed greatness. He was trusted 
 by many statesmen, and, in the palmy days of the 
 Morning Chronicle, had been made editor by the 
 Peelites who purchased it, among whom were 
 Mr. Sydney Herbert, Mr. Hope, and, I believe, 
 Mr. Gladstone. I may be excused for mentioning 
 Mr. Hayward more than once, and perhaps some- 
 what irrelevantly, as his conversation is constantly 
 recurring to my memory. It was always ex- 
 cessively entertaining, being full of anecdote. 
 
 He used to tell very characteristic stories of 
 Martin Farquhar Tupper, the author of Proverbial 
 Philosophy. Once, in America, he went to call at 
 a house where the servant made some mistake about 
 his name. Thereupon he said, "Announce the 
 author of Proverbial Philosophy ! " 
 
 On another occasion he was staying with the 
 owner of a Scotch island. In order to catch his boat 
 one morning, he had to walk for some miles, and 
 the young lady of the house offered to act as his 
 guide. He was carrying a small bag with him, and 
 asked the young lady if she would like to carry it. 
 She mildly replied that he had better do so himself. 
 He rejoined, " I thought you would like to be able 
 to say that you had carried Martin Farquhar 
 Tupper's bag for him ! " 
 
 Mr. Hayward and I had many friends in
 
 78 A LITTLE WEAKNESS ch. 
 
 common, and after his death Mr. Kinglake and I 
 wrote a joint article about him in the Fortnightly 
 Review. His one weakness was his love of alluding 
 to persons of great rank. 
 
 To anticipate a little. At a time when I was fre- 
 quenting the Athenaeum a good deal, a Cingalese 
 gentleman, who had come to England to read 
 for the Bar, was recommended by Sir Roderick 
 Murchison to all his acquaintances. One day, find- 
 ing him dining alone, Mr. Hay ward and I invited 
 him to our table. Mr. Hayward wished to instruct 
 him as to the constitution of English society, and 
 said, " You will find in England that men of dis- 
 tinction, who belong neither to the aristocracy nor 
 to the richer classes, but have made a mark, either 
 in literature or by their conversational powers, are 
 always received in great houses on a footing of per- 
 fect equality. You never go to a great house but 
 you will see some distinguished literary man received 
 as one of the most highly honoured guests." 
 
 The Cingalese said, very naively, " But are these 
 not called sycophants ? " 
 
 There was complete silence. 
 
 Amongst Mr. Hayward's anecdotes was one 
 concerning the Queen of Holland, who had come to 
 England with the view of making the acquaintance 
 of the most distinguished persons in the country. 
 She had therefore sent for Sir Henry Rawlinson, 
 the well-known Eastern archaeological discoverer. 
 She asked him to assist her in solving a question 
 which had always been to her a great stumbling-
 
 vi DRAMATIC PREACHING 79 
 
 block. Did he believe, or not, in the Tower of 
 Babel ? She had never been able to bring herself 
 to believe in it. A foreign lady, who had married 
 an Englishman of great distinction, on hearing this, 
 thought to improve the occasion, and said, with that 
 absence of the aspirate which often distinguishes 
 foreigners in their pronunciation of English, " 'E 
 ought to 'ave told 'er that it is for our comfort 
 and 'appiness to believe it." 
 
 Mr. Hay ward was also very fond of telling the 
 following anecdote of Mr. Montgomery, a popular 
 preacher, familiarly known as " Satan Mont- 
 gomery " from a poem he had written on that 
 subject. When in Edinburgh, he had been invited 
 to dinner by Bishop Terrot, who introduced him 
 to his friends. One lady, after the introduction, 
 asked the Bishop, " Is it Mr. Montgomery, the 
 poet?'' to which the Bishop replied, "No; Mr. 
 Montgomery, a poet." 
 
 Mr. Montgomery, both as poet and preacher, 
 was rather dramatic in his methods. It was said 
 that, in the manuscript of his sermons, he used to 
 introduce what in a play would be called "stage 
 directions." In one sermon of pathetic character 
 was inserted, every now and then, as a direction, 
 [tears]. 
 
 One of the interesting anniversaries celebrated 
 every year was the day of the Battle of Waterloo, 
 when the Duke of Wellington gave a banquet. 
 There was a very quaint old gentleman, whom I 
 knew well — Mr. Bramley Moore — who made a bet
 
 80 DEAFNESS AND DIPLOMACY ch. 
 
 that he would attend one of these dinners. He 
 did so, for he was acquainted with the confectioner 
 who contracted for the Waterloo banquet, and 
 obtained permission to personate one of the head- 
 waiters. 
 
 An anecdote connected with the Foreign Office 
 occurs to me, which I give as amusing, though not 
 perhaps relevant. 
 
 A Secretary of the Austrian Legation, Count 
 Potocki, was on very intimate terms with the Duke 
 of Devonshire of the day, who, by the way, was 
 rather deaf. The hospitalities at Devonshire House 
 formed what is now called a record. On one 
 occasion Count Potocki asked the Duke rather 
 earnestly to invite some lady of doubtful ante- 
 cedents to one of his parties. The Duke made 
 no reply. Count Potocki therefore renewed his 
 request, whereupon the Duke of Devonshire 
 answered, " My dear Potocki, it's a pity that I 
 am not a diplomatist and that you are not 
 deaf." 
 
 In those days I heard many diplomatic stories. 
 There was one of an Ambassador and his wife who 
 were known to be constantly quarrelling. One day 
 the Ambassador had to take his wife away from 
 some racecourse before she wished to go, as they 
 were engaged to dine with the Queen. During the 
 homeward drive the Ambassador sat on the box of 
 the barouche, turning round from time to time in 
 the endeavour to conjure away his wife's ill-temper 
 by pointing out objects of interest along the road.
 
 vi LATE FOR DINNER 81 
 
 He said to her, "T r ois-tu, ma chere, ces jolies 
 vaches 1 " 
 
 " Non" she replied, "je ne vols rien que ton 
 vilain dos." 
 
 On arriving at home, the Ambassador at once 
 went to Buckingham Palace, and explained to 
 the Queen the reason for his wife's delay. Her 
 Majesty was much amused, and gave orders for 
 dinner to be postponed so as to give time for the 
 Ambassadress to appear. 
 
 On another occasion a lady was late for dinner at 
 the Palace, but hoped to escape observation, as she 
 was placed behind an epergne which she thought 
 would conceal her from the view of the Queen. 
 Her Majesty perceived her, however, and said, " I 
 suppose some accident occurred on the road ? ' 
 
 The lady replied, " Yes, madam. The carriage." 
 
 Thereupon the Duke of Cambridge — father of 
 the late Duke — not letting the question drop, 
 asked what the accident had been. 
 
 The guest floundered, and said, " One of the 
 horses fell." 
 
 This did not satisfy the Duke, who said, 
 " Where was that ? " 
 
 The lady replied, " In Holies Street." 
 
 The Duke said, " And what did you do ? ' 
 
 The lady said, " I went into a shop." 
 
 " What shop ? " he asked. 
 
 " A chemist's shop," said the guest. 
 
 " But there is no chemist's shop in Holies 
 Street," replied the Duke. 
 
 VOL. I G
 
 82 LIARS ch. 
 
 At this point, the Queen, who was much enter- 
 tained, took pity on the lady and said to her uncle, 
 " You should not ask ladies questions. It confuses 
 them." 
 
 An anecdote used to be told of Lord Stratford 
 and the diplomatist whom he succeeded in the 
 United States. Every effort was made to prevent 
 their meeting, as both were known to possess very 
 violent tempers. It was, however, impossible to 
 avoid their being together for one evening, and 
 Lord Stratford dined with his predecessor. After 
 dinner, the host offered Lord Stratford a cup of 
 tea. Lord Stratford, beaming with conciliation, 
 said, " This tea is very good." Thereupon his host 
 rose up in fury and said, " I understand the taunt, 
 sir ! My father was a tea-merchant ! " 
 
 There used to be a diplomatist who had the 
 reputation of never speaking the truth. It was 
 
 said of him, " X est si menteur quon ne pent 
 
 pas meme croire le contraire de ce quil dit." 
 
 That reminds me of the story of a gentleman 
 in the Mediterranean, who was also known to 
 romance. On one occasion, he invited an American 
 naval officer to dine with him, and indulged in 
 one or two rather extraordinary flights. After 
 dinner they went into the next room to smoke, 
 and the host began a new story. The American 
 captain fixed his eye upon him steadily, so much 
 that the host rather boggled in his narrative. 
 Hereon the naval officer said, " Go on, sir, go on. 
 I've been a liar myself all my life ! "
 
 vi NIGHT RESORTS 83 
 
 The person who told me this also related another 
 anecdote of a gentleman describing his journey to 
 England from America. He declared that when 
 they were nearing the English coast they saw a 
 small row-boat, with only one man, some hundred 
 miles from the shore. They offered to take him in 
 tow, but he replied that he had come alone in the 
 row-boat all the way from America, and that he 
 wished to complete the journey in the same 
 manner. An American present said to him, " Give 
 me your hand, my friend. You're my witness. 
 I was the man in the row-boat." 
 
 Amongst other reminiscences are those of places 
 of amusement frequented at that time by young 
 men. One was called the " Cider Cellars," in 
 Maiden Lane. Here men used to go in to supper, 
 and songs were sung, not always of the choicest 
 character, till a late hour at night. A similar 
 place was the " Coal Hole," where the same amuse- 
 ments were offered ; but there was another night 
 resort, which was certainly most clever, even if not 
 improving — namely, what was called the " Judge 
 and Jury," where every night a comic trial was 
 given. It took place at an inn called the " Garrick's 
 Head," in Bow Street, and the trials were conducted 
 under the presidency of a man who, I fancy, was 
 the proprietor of the inn. He represented the 
 Lord Chief Baron, and was generally known as 
 Lord Chief Baron Nicholson. He took his seat 
 with great pom]), dressed in appropriate costume, 
 and a table in front of him was surrounded by
 
 84 BURLESQUE TRIALS ch. 
 
 young men dressed as barristers, most of them 
 being, I believe, attorneys' clerks. A great laugh 
 was always raised, when the Lord Chief Baron took 
 his seat, by his calling out " Waiter ! A cigar and 
 some brandy and water ! ' But this was the only 
 occasion when he derogated from his great dignity. 
 The trials were, of course, of a farcical description, 
 and were conducted by the barristers on either 
 side in the usual manner, but with great wit. 
 Occasionally the Lord Chief Baron interfered 
 with some pointed remark ; but the most amusing 
 feature of the representation was that of the 
 witnesses, who were dressed according to the parts 
 they represented. I never could find out whether 
 the wit we heard was spontaneous or not, but 
 certainly the questions of the counsel and the 
 answers of the witnesses were very humorous. 
 Five members of the audience were selected as 
 the jury, to return a verdict according to the 
 evidence. 
 
 Another place to which I only went once or 
 twice at most was called "Bob Croft's." It 
 was in the Haymarket, and very rough. It was 
 not licensed, and refreshments had to be ordered 
 under assumed appellations. For instance, brandy 
 and water was called "pale white." There were 
 some very uncouth customers who frequented this 
 place, and I am told that occasionally great violence 
 was shown. It did not require a license, I fancy, 
 as it did not sell liquors, which were bought 
 from neighbouring public-houses. At that time a
 
 vi THIEVES' DINNER 85 
 
 public-house could be open from twelve o'clock on 
 Sunday night till twelve o'clock the next Saturday 
 night, there being some special regulations about 
 Sunday itself ; but a new Licensing Act regulating 
 public-houses brought to an end these subsidiary 
 establishments. 
 
 One amusement of which I never partook was 
 that of obtaining an escort from the police to visit 
 the haunts of criminals. I knew several people 
 who did this, and were much struck by the nature 
 of the scenes they visited. One clergyman, who 
 had a City living, used annually to give a dinner 
 to thieves, collected for him by some members 
 of the police force. He said they behaved very 
 well, and he was especially cautioned by the police 
 that all his guests expected to be treated as 
 gentlemen.
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 Alfred Club — Members of the Club — Tichborne Case — Ruin of the 
 Alfred — Anecdotes of Archbishop M'Gee — Mr. Brookfield — 
 London friends — Laurence Oliphant and Spiritualism — Other 
 acquaintances — Sheridan anecdotes. 
 
 I was elected a member of the Alfred Club. 
 It was excessively comfortable, with beautiful 
 plate and an excellent library ; but it had been 
 neglected for many years because of a curious 
 story. Some endeavours were made to revive it 
 by allowing people to come in with a diminished 
 entrance-fee, and at the time of my election most 
 young men coming to London were made members 
 of the Alfred, so that they might have a club to 
 frequent until they were elected to one of the 
 superior ones. There were the two Seymours, 
 Henry and Alfred ; Mr. Chichester Fortescue — 
 afterwards Lord Carlingford ; Charles and Henry 
 Grenfell ; Mr. Baring, who became Lord North- 
 brook ; Mr. George Glyn — afterwards Lord 
 Wolverton ; Mr. Melville Portal, Mr. Henry 
 Erskine, Mr. Jacob, and Mr. Delaval Astley, to- 
 gether with many others, elected on that account. 
 The revival, however, did not last very long, and 
 
 86
 
 chvii TICHBORNE CASE 87 
 
 at last the Alfred was amalgamated with the 
 Oriental Club in Hanover Square. 
 
 Amongst other people I met at the Alfred was 
 Mr. Tichborne, the original from whom the 
 " Claimant " was copied. He was a nephew of 
 my friends, Mr. Henry and Mr. Alfred Seymour, 
 and, having been abroad a good deal, was some- 
 what foreign in his ways. These two gentlemen 
 introduced him to their friends, and I must have 
 seen him frequently, the more so as I was asked to 
 support his election to the Club. I had no minute 
 recollection of him, however, and I was therefore 
 unable to give evidence at the trial, though asked 
 to do so. The Claimant had a peculiar way in 
 Court of raising; first one evebrow and then 
 another. Allusion was often made to this trick. 
 Some said that it was a characteristic of his family, 
 and Sir Hamilton Seymour declared that their 
 name originally was " Twitchborne," and taken 
 on this account. Mr. Alfred Seymour had the 
 same habit. 
 
 This, somewhat irrelevantly, reminds me of an 
 incident in the life of Sir Hamilton Seymour. 
 When Lord Hertford had left to Sir Richard 
 Wallace the bulk of his property, Sir Hamilton 
 Seymour contested the will, although Sir Richard 
 offered what were considered very handsome terms 
 of compromise. After passing through the inferior 
 courts, the action finally was brought before the 
 House of Lords. About this time, Sir Hamilton 
 Seymour, going to a Queen's ball, met Lord
 
 88 THE UNKNOWN GUEST en. 
 
 Chelmsford, a member of the supreme tribunal. 
 Some allusion was made to the action then proceed- 
 ing, and Lord Chelmsford remarked, " I am always 
 thinking of the text, ' Agree with thine adversary 
 quickly, whiles thou art in the way with him.' 
 This struck Sir Hamilton Seymour so forcibly that 
 the next day he instructed his legal representatives 
 to accept the terms offered by Sir Richard Wallace. 
 
 The story to which I alluded above, as having 
 ruined the Alfred, was as follows : — 
 
 At one time, what are called coffee-room dinners 
 at clubs did not exist ; but there was a house dinner 
 at a certain hour every day, to which a limited 
 number of members were admitted, on writing 
 down their names beforehand. I believe at some 
 clubs the dinners were given gratuitously, but on 
 the understanding that a good deal of wine was 
 drunk. At the Alfred there was a house dinner 
 for twelve. On one occasion, as the company were 
 sitting down to dinner, a member came to the Club 
 and sent in a waiter, with the request to be allowed 
 to join the party though he was not in evening 
 dress, as he was going immediately into the 
 country. His request was admitted. During the 
 dinner he proved to be more agreeable to all the 
 members than any one they recollected meeting 
 before. On his leaving; for the countrv, thev 
 inquired of each other who he was, and none of 
 them knew. They then sent for the steward, and 
 he informed them that it was Mr. Canning. 
 Nearly all the members of the Alfred were so
 
 vii AUTHENTIC ANECDOTES 89 
 
 much afraid of being taken for one of a party of 
 twelve or fourteen who did not know the Prime 
 Minister by sight, that they took their names off 
 the Club. 
 
 I was told by the late Sir Fleetwood Pellew, 
 who had been a member for many years, that at 
 one time the Club was so much sought after that 
 persons used to leave cards on their friends, 
 marking them " Candidate for the Alfred," in the 
 hopes of getting support. But the incident I 
 have related practically proved its ruin. 
 
 As I do not aspire to accuracy in dates, I may 
 as well here mention one or two anecdotes of 
 Archbishop M'Gee, whom I recollect very well. 
 Though they have perhaps been told before, yet I 
 know them to be authentic, and on this account I 
 repeat them. 
 
 The Archbishop used to relate a story that 
 once, finding many society people travelling first 
 and second class, and wishing to avoid them, he 
 entered a third-class carriage. There was no one 
 in it except a farmer, who said to the Bishop, " I 
 suppose you'd be something in the clergy line ?" to 
 which he assented. The farmer then said, "Is 
 your curacy in this neighbourhood ?" The Bishop 
 replied, " No, no. I am sorry to say I have no 
 curacy. I was a curate once, but am one no 
 longer.' 1 To which the fanner rejoined, " I 
 suppose it was the drink ?"
 
 90 ARCHBISHOP M'GEE ch. 
 
 On another occasion, he was staving with a 
 gentleman in his diocese, and was invited by his 
 host and hostess to go to a picnic. The luncheon- 
 basket had been badly packed, and everything w r as 
 mixed. The gentleman of the house made use of 
 some very strong phrases, and his w r ife was anxious 
 as to the effect this would produce on the Bishop. 
 The latter said, " It was fortunate that we had 
 a layman here to make use of the appropriate 
 language." 
 
 Bishop M'Gee w r as once asked to marry a 
 gentleman who was a great whisky-manufacturer 
 in Dublin. The Bishop felt disinclined to do this, 
 being very much opposed to the trade ; but, as the 
 gentleman in question had a great reputation, and 
 was known to be very charitable, the Bishop did 
 not like to refuse. 
 
 After the ceremony, the bridegroom said, " I do 
 not know how to thank your Lordship. I wish I 
 could do something that might be pleasing to you. 
 All I can say is, ' The Lord be with you ! ' 
 
 The Bishop replied, " And with thy spirit ! " 
 
 A Bishop who was about to celebrate his golden 
 wedding once discoursed on the subject at a dinner- 
 party to a French lady next to him. She said, 
 " I do not understand all this about your golden 
 wedding." The Bishop replied, " You see, we have 
 lived together for fifty years." The French lady 
 interrupted, " Oh, I see. You have lived together 
 fifty years, and now you are going to be married ! " 
 
 I have always found that bishops, like other
 
 vii LIMERICKS 91 
 
 men of distinction, have a great sense of humour. 
 I knew one who composed what is now called a 
 Limerick. It ran as follows : — 
 
 There was a young lady of Cheadle, 
 Who one day sat down on a needle ; 
 
 But as from its head 
 
 There depended a thread, 
 It was promptly pulled out by the beadle. 
 
 The following seems also to have an ecclesiastical 
 touch : — 
 
 A learned young innocent curate 
 Vainly courted a damsel obdurate ; 
 
 Till he said with a sigh, 
 
 " Perhaps by and by 
 Your response will be more commensurate." 
 
 A gentleman who used to be quoted as a great 
 wit was Mr. Brookfield, who had the chapel of 
 John Street, Berkeley Square. He was said to 
 be the original of one of Thackeray's characters. 
 It was related that, in Mr. Brookfield's time at 
 Oxford, there was a very unpopular don whose 
 name was Thorpe, and some of the young men 
 were stimulated to write epitaphs on him. One 
 had been composed that consisted of twenty lines. 
 "No, 1 ' said Mr. Brookfield, "that's too long." 
 Somebody else wrote one of twelve lines, to which 
 Mr. Brookfield made the same objection. At last 
 a two-line epitaph was composed, but Mr. Brook- 
 field said, " That is still too long. Two words are 
 enough for him — ' Thorpe's corpse.' 
 
 In early life, I made the acquaintance of Sir
 
 92 FRIENDS OF MY YOUTH ch. 
 
 John McNeil], who had been Minister in Persia for 
 many years. He had begun life in the Indian 
 Medical Service, and was appointed Physician to 
 the Legation at Tehran. Owing to his great 
 ability, he was named Minister in 1836. Subse- 
 quently, he acted as Commissioner in the enquiry 
 concerning military deficiencies in the Crimea 
 during the war, and his report, I believe, entailed 
 a great deal of unpopularity for him. 
 
 Amongst others of whom I saw a great deal at 
 the time were Mr. and Lady Elizabeth Stanhope ; 
 she was the daughter of the well-known Coke of 
 Holkham, for so many years the popular Member 
 for Norfolk, who was afterwards created Lord 
 Leicester. I also frequented the house of Mr. 
 and Mrs. Spencer Walpole. Another friend was 
 Captain Waldegrave, an old naval officer, whom I 
 had known for many years, and who afterwards 
 became Lord Waldegrave. 
 
 I knew Laurence Oliphant well, too, in those 
 days. He was charmingly accomplished and 
 bright. Whatever he undertook was well done. 
 He had many friends, and achieved great success 
 as a writer. Subsequently he took to spiritualism, 
 and ended his days as a devout professor of that 
 cult. I recollect his telling me, half in joke, what 
 had first attracted his attention to spiritualism. 
 
 When crossing to America, one night there 
 arose a very serious storm at which every one was 
 much alarmed, except one American gentleman 
 who remained perfectly calm. The next day, Mr.
 
 VII 
 
 SPIRITUALISM 93 
 
 Oliphant said to him, " You appeared not to be 
 at all alarmed by the storm last night." The 
 American replied, "No, I guess I shall have a 
 good time of it t'other side Jordan. 1 ' 
 
 This somewhat frivolous observation remained 
 in Mr. Oliphant's brain, and ended by bringing 
 him over to that peculiar profession of faith. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Richard Ford were very kind to 
 me in those days. Mr. Ford contributed con- 
 stantly to the Quarterly Reviezc, and had written 
 the Spanish Handbook, being a celebrated writer 
 on Spain, and the great authority on that country. 
 His method of bringing his mind to bear on what 
 he intended writing was a curious one. He kept 
 a squirrel in his room, and making the animal 
 turn round in its cage had the effect of bringing 
 his mind into focus for writing. Their son, whom 
 I also knew very well, was afterwards Sir Clare 
 Ford. He had been in the army for a short time, 
 but left it for diplomacy. He was a man of 
 remarkable geniality and intelligence. I met him 
 some years later at Naples, where he was attached 
 to Sir William Temple's Legation, and where he 
 married a very beautiful Neapolitan lady, Miss 
 Garofalo, who died comparatively young. I suc- 
 ceeded him as Ambassador at Madrid. 
 
 Mr. Ford's daughter married Mr. Oswald Craw- 
 furd, the novelist, whose father was the great 
 authority at the Geographical Society, and once 
 Governor of Singapore. His mother was the 
 daughter of the well-known proprietor of the
 
 94 SUSANNA AND THE ELDERS ch. 
 
 Morning Chronicle, and sister to Sir Erskine 
 Perry. 
 
 Another acquaintance of mine was Mr. Monck- 
 ton Milnes, afterwards raised to the peerage as 
 Lord Houghton. He was a man of great literary 
 power and ready wit, but, though a strong personal 
 friend and zealous supporter of Lord Palmerston, 
 he did not succeed in active politics. 
 
 On one occasion, at dinner, a young lady was 
 seated between two elderly gentlemen. Mr. 
 Monckton Milnes' neighbour said to him, "Do 
 you know the name of that young lady opposite ?" 
 
 He replied, " Yes, her name is Susanna." 
 
 Sir Charles Trevelyan, whom 1 also knew, 
 though not well, was at that time Secretary of 
 the Treasury, where, with the best and most 
 conscientious intentions, he made himself rather 
 unpopular by the rigour of his decisions. His 
 first wife had been the sister of Macaulay, the 
 historian, and his son is Sir George Trevelyan. 
 
 Early in my life in London, Lady Palmerston 
 was good enough to take notice of me, and from 
 then till the end of her active career, whenever I 
 was in London, she never missed asking me to 
 whatever parties she gave. She had great charm 
 of manner, and, as I have mentioned before, she 
 exercised a very useful influence over Lord 
 Palmerston. 
 
 In those days there lived near me, in Mayfair, 
 Miss Mary and Miss Agnes Berry. They were 
 constantly inviting me to their house, and I now
 
 vii THE MISSES BERRY 95 
 
 regret bitterly not having availed myself more often 
 of their kindness. In summer, Lord Lansdowne 
 often lent them his villa at Richmond. 
 
 Miss Mary Berry was supposed to have been 
 engaged to marry Horace Walpole. He died in 
 1797, being the son of Sir Robert Walpole by 
 Miss Shorter, the daughter of the Lord Mayor. 
 This Lord Mayor had not been elected in the 
 usual manner, but was appointed by order of 
 James II. Between myself, therefore, and the 
 age of James II. there are only two links, namely, 
 Miss Berry and Horace Walpole. 
 
 A lady who used to give a good many dinners 
 was also very kind to me — Lady Robert Seymour. 
 I think she was by birth Miss Chetwynd, and a 
 near relative of Miss Chetwynd-Stapleton, who 
 formed part of a wonderful group of unmarried 
 ladies with whom I was somewhat intimate. The 
 others were the Misses Lemon, who lived in a 
 small house in Upper Brook Street ; they were 
 sisters of Sir Charles Lemon, Member, I think, 
 for Cornwall, and also of an old lady — Lady de 
 Dunstanville. One peculiarity in this family was 
 that they never addressed each other by their 
 Christian names, but always spoke to each other as 
 " Brother " or " Sister." 
 
 The two Miss Sothebys — daughters of the cele- 
 brated poet — were friends of mine, as were also the 
 Misses Finch, whom I knew very well, and who 
 lived in Charles Street and gave dinners. There 
 I met Mr. Godley, so distinguished in Colonial
 
 96 MR. SAMUEL ROGERS oh. 
 
 matters ; and at the bouse of Mrs. Butt — a lady 
 who lived very much in literary circles — I made 
 the acquaintance of Mrs. Marsh, author of Amelia 
 Wyndham, and of Miss Agnes Strickland, the 
 historian. 
 
 At Mrs. Butt's I also saw more than once 
 Mr. Samuel Rogers, the poet. I never, however, 
 had the opportunity of speaking to him. He had 
 a reputation for making caustic and unpleasant 
 remarks, which were commonly quoted. Those 
 which I heard, however, were not, as I thought, 
 marked with any particular wit or humour. The 
 person, I am told, who, more than any other, could 
 excite him to wrath was the late Mr. Henry 
 Grenfell. 
 
 I knew well a lady called Miss Smyth, who was 
 a relative of the Duchess of Grafton, and sister of 
 a well-known man named Smyth of Heath Hall, 
 Wakefield, near which town lived another friend 
 of mine, Mrs. Gaskell — the mother of Mr. Milnes- 
 Gaskell — and Mrs. Daniel Gaskell, his aunt. I 
 also knew Dr. and Lady Louisa Marsh — no rela- 
 tion to the lady lately mentioned. His son, by a 
 former marriage, was a clergyman of considerable 
 celebrity. He also had a daughter who wrote with 
 great success on religious matters, and was the 
 authoress of the Life of Hedley Vicars. 1 believe 
 she is still living. 
 
 Two other friends of mine were the Misses 
 Walpole, daughters of Colonel Lambert Walpole, 
 who was killed at the time of the Union of Ireland.
 
 vii A BEAUTIFUL SPINSTER 97 
 
 Their mother had been the daughter of Lord 
 Clive. I also saw much of an aunt of theirs, 
 Miss Elizabeth Walpole, who had a house at 
 Twickenham, and was known by her relatives as 
 "Cousin Betsy." She retained all her faculties 
 to an advanced age, and her letters are full of 
 interest. 
 
 At the houses of some of these ladies, I frequently 
 met Miss Caldwell. She had been a great beauty 
 during the Regency, so much so that, when she 
 was going away from the Opera, crowds used to 
 draw up on either side of her path to admire her. 
 Notwithstanding her beauty, she remained Miss 
 Caldwell. 
 
 Above all was a dear and kind friend named 
 Miss Leigh, whose father had been well known 
 during the Regency as a writer of plays, and a 
 friend of the wits of the day. I had known her 
 since my early childhood, and looked upon her in 
 the light of a relative. Amongst her other 
 acquaintances in early life had been Professor 
 Smyth, who accompanied Mr. Tom Sheridan as 
 tutor to the University. He had given Miss Leigh 
 a very small book, privately printed, describing 
 his experiences with the Sheridans in general. I 
 recollect one or two of these anecdotes which 
 amused me a good deal. 
 
 As is generally known, Mr. Sheridan was verv 
 unpunctual in his payments. It so happened that 
 he had not, for some time, made any remittances 
 to Mr. Smyth for his expenses as tutor. After 
 
 VOL. i n
 
 98 MR. SHERIDAN'S APOLOGY ch. 
 
 writing more than once to Mr. Sheridan, Mr. 
 Smyth addressed him a letter written in very 
 strong language. Almost immediately afterwards, 
 Mr. Smyth received an invitation to come with 
 Mr. Tom Sheridan and pay the father a visit. 
 Mr. Smyth, by this time, was rather ashamed of 
 the force of his language, and, after being very 
 courteously received by Mr. Sheridan, he said to 
 his host, " I am very sorry I wrote you that letter 
 the other day. I hope you will forgive me if it 
 was too strong." 
 
 Mr. Sheridan replied, "Don't say a word more 
 about it." 
 
 The next morning Mr. Smyth had occasion to 
 go into Mr. Sheridan's library. On the table were 
 lying many unopened letters, and he saw that none 
 of his own had ever had their seals broken. 
 
 This anecdote, which I found in Miss Leigh's 
 book, was also repeated to me by the late Lord 
 Holland. 
 
 About that time Mr. Tom Sheridan had been 
 reading the works of some German philosopher, 
 which impressed him a good deal. The philo- 
 sopher's theory was that nothing, however insigni- 
 ficant, could be done with indifference ; for instance, 
 a man touching a table, or his head, though 
 apparently involuntarily, did not really do it with 
 indifference. This theory Mr. Tom Sheridan 
 developed to his father, who, however, did not 
 seem to agree. 
 
 The son then asked, " Is there anything you
 
 vii FATHER AND SON 99 
 
 can do with absolute, complete, and entire in- 
 difference ? " 
 
 Mr. Sheridan replied, " Yes, certainly." 
 His son rejoined, " What is it, then, that you 
 can do with utter, complete, absolute indifference?" 
 " Listen to you, Tom," was the reply.
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 
 Winter society in London — Early acquaintances — Sir Charles Wyke 
 The late Duke of Rutland — Mr. Thackeray — Mr. Kinglake— 
 Debates in the House of Commons — Members of Parliament. 
 
 There was a very agreeable little winter society 
 in London at that time. Small whist-parties were 
 constantly given, amongst others by Lady Tanker- 
 ville and Mr. and Mrs. Prideaux Brune. My 
 cousin, Sir William Hoste, with whom I lived 
 habitually when he was in London, subsequently 
 married one of the daughters of that house. 
 
 There were a good many others who were 
 generally in London in winter and joined this little 
 coterie — Lord John Fitzroy ; also Lady Isabella 
 Blachford, his sister, whose husband had been the 
 owner of Osborne, which was sold to Queen 
 Victoria ; Captain Gallwey, Sir Arthur Otway, 
 Sir Richard King, Lady Champagne, Colonel 
 Ferguson of Pitfour, Lady Poulett, and Mr. 
 Munro of Novar, the brother-in-law of Mr. Butler 
 Johnstone, senior, to whom the bulk of his pro- 
 perty went, while Novar passed to Mr. Munro- 
 Ferguson, who is known by the same territorial 
 
 appellation. There were also Mr. Williamson 
 
 100
 
 chviii FRIENDS IN TOWN 101 
 
 Ramsay, Mr. Belward Ray, who had a very 
 pretty place at Edmonton, where lie occasionally 
 gave great morning parties, and Mr. Hook, a 
 brother, I think, of the Dean of Chichester. He 
 was married to Lady Cooke, the widow of Sir 
 Edward Cooke, who, early in the century, had 
 been Under-Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, 
 and was generally known by the nickname of 
 " Kangaroo Cooke/' 
 
 One lady, who was almost certain to be found 
 in town, was Mrs. Lane-Fox, a very remarkable 
 character, and the sister of General Buckley, a 
 much-trusted servant of the Court. Society was 
 constantly assembled at her house, either to call on 
 her in the morning, or to dine with her later. One 
 of her great friends was Mr. Charles Villiers, a 
 brother of Lord Clarendon, who had more than 
 once been in the Government, and who was singu- 
 larly gifted with a ready and joyous wit. One 
 instance of it I recollect. 
 
 A foreign lady came to London, and went very 
 much into society. She was of enormous size, 
 though quite young. Talking of her one day, 
 
 some one said, "Do you know Madame is 
 
 only eight-and-twenty ? " 
 
 Mr. Charles Villiers replied, " I suppose you 
 mean eight-and-twenty stone ! " 
 
 I saw a great deal of Lady Dormer and Miss 
 Dormer. Lady Dormer was by birth Miss Tich- 
 borne, nearly connected with the family affected 
 by the well-known Claimant. Miss Dormer was
 
 102 THE SEYMOURS ch. 
 
 afterwards known as the Countess Dormer, having 
 been made a chanoinesse. Both were intimate 
 friends of Lady Pouletts, and very popular in 
 society. I also knew Mr. and Mrs. Seymour. He 
 was the father of Lady Tichborne, whose son, 
 Roger, was impersonated by the Claimant in the 
 great trial. He had been a detenu at Verdun. 
 
 Among my intimate friends, whom I have also 
 mentioned elsewhere, were Mr. Henry and Mr. 
 Alfred Seymour, both of them half-brothers of 
 Lady Tichborne. Mr. Henry Seymour had been 
 Under-Secretary of State for India, and both he 
 and his brother were in Parliament. They were 
 grandsons of the Mr. Seymour who was in his 
 youth, I believe, heir-presumptive to the Duke of 
 Somerset, and for many years lived almost habitu- 
 ally in France. Hence their French connections. 
 I travelled with them more than once on the Con- 
 tinent, and I recollect staying with Mr. Alfred 
 Seymour at Knoyle in Wiltshire, a comfortable and 
 quaint old house, built, I believe, by Sir Christopher 
 Wren, who was born in the village. A portion of 
 Mr. Seymour's property has been sold to Mr. 
 Percy Wyndham, who was also in Parliament for 
 a long time, and who erected on a well -chosen 
 site a house called Clouds, which I have never 
 seen. 
 
 I was acquainted, too, with Sir James and Lady 
 Hogg, who lived next door to the Seymours in 
 Upper Grosvenor Street. Their eldest son was 
 Colonel Hogg of the Life Guards, who was in
 
 viii HOGG, GOG, AND MAGOG 103 
 
 Parliament, and for some time Chairman of the 
 Metropolitan Board of Works. On one occasion, 
 when the Board had to undertake some joint opera- 
 tion with the London municipality, it was said in 
 Punch that the three deities of the City were Hogg, 
 Gog, and Magog. Colonel Hogg was afterwards 
 Lord Magheramorne. Another acquaintance of 
 mine was Mr. Fleming, so well known in society. 
 He had been a great ally of Mr. Charles Buller, 
 and ended his davs as Secretary of the Poor Law 
 Board. His brother, Sir Valentine Fleming, was 
 a Judge in Australia. 
 
 Mrs. Gore, the well-known authoress, and her 
 daughter — afterwards Lady Edward Thynne — were 
 notabilities of society in those days. Miss Gore 
 had a most beautiful figure, while her mothers was 
 rather inclined to be over -opulent. They were 
 consequently known in the world as " Plenty and 
 No Waste." 
 
 Amongst my early habitual associates were 
 General Wrottesley, as already mentioned, Sir 
 Arthur Otway, and Mr. — later Sir Charles — Wyke. 
 His mother had been a lady in attendance on the 
 Duchess of Cumberland, and he himself had been 
 chosen by the King of Hanover, at the instance of 
 Dr. Jelf, to be the companion of Prince George in 
 his studies. He had originally been an officer in 
 the Royal Fusiliers. On the accession of the 
 Duke of Cumberland to the throne of Hanover, 
 Mr. Wyke had been appointed A.D.C. to the 
 King, and accompanied him to Hanover. Here
 
 104 SIR CHARLES WYKE oh. 
 
 he did not find his position comfortable, as there 
 seemed to be a kind of jealousy of Englishmen. 
 He therefore begged the King to obtain for him a 
 post in the English Consular Service. This was 
 given to him by Lord Aberdeen, who wrote to the 
 King of Hanover to say that, as he was about to 
 leave office, this was the last post in his gift. The 
 appointment was that of Vice -Consul at Hayti. 
 Shortly after Mr. Wyke's arrival at his post, the 
 Consul-General went away, leaving Mr. Wyke to 
 act for him. At that time the revolution broke 
 out, which ended in the proclamation of Faustin 
 Soulouque as Emperor of Hayti. The new 
 sovereign desired to arrange his household on the 
 model of old European courts. Hearing that Mr. 
 Wyke had been in the household of the King of 
 Hanover, he applied to him for advice and assist- 
 ance in details, which Mr. Wyke was able to give 
 him, thereby acquiring a great influence with the 
 Emperor. This he used to a good purpose, prin- 
 cipally for obtaining the pardon of some opponents 
 of the Emperor, whom the latter wished to execute, 
 as was the habit in that country. Among other 
 rewards that he received was the Order of St. 
 Faustin, which the Emperor had founded. 
 
 Mr. Wyke's accounts of the rise of the Empire 
 of Hayti were most interesting, as the Haytians 
 did everything in their power to form themselves 
 on European models. They had been well 
 educated. Their language is French, and the 
 principal youths of the country are often sent to
 
 VIII 
 
 THE HAYTIANS 105 
 
 study in Paris. The result is that they have 
 acquired great ease in French conversation, and, 
 except for their colour, would be taken for 
 Europeans. I have known several in different 
 parts of the world. When at Madrid, Made- 
 moiselle Judic came to act, and one night at 
 the theatre the French Ambassador invited me 
 to go with him behind the scenes and make her 
 acquaintance. To our great disappointment, we 
 were entirely eclipsed by a junior member of the 
 Haytian Embassy, perfectly black, but paying com- 
 pliments in the most choice French phraseology. 
 
 It is narrated of an American missionar}^ that 
 he visited Hayti, and was taken in some town to 
 be introduced to the Mayor. This functionary, 
 who was deep black, was dressed like a Parisian, 
 and spoke English as well as French. He asked 
 his visitor what he thought of the country. The 
 missionary replied : " It is a most beautiful country. 
 The vegetation is magnificent, the scenery attractive, 
 and the climate good. It is a pity that you should 
 all be so much set one against the other, and con- 
 stantly fighting instead of working for the good of 
 your nation." 
 
 The Mayor replied : " It is all very well for you 
 to speak in this way, as a cold-blooded Anglo- 
 Saxon ; but it is very different with us of the 
 Latin race." 
 
 The American gentleman, from whom I heard 
 this story, had many others about negroes. He 
 was a great writer and historian. He told me that,
 
 106 THE FATTED CALF ch. 
 
 after the Civil War, Congress endeavoured to 
 reconcile the Southerners to their fate by giving 
 them more privileges than their numerical pro- 
 portion in the States really entitled them to enjoy. 
 This created some anger among the Northerners, 
 especially the negroes. One black clergyman 
 preached a sermon on the subject. He said it was 
 painful to see how Congress encouraged men who 
 had imbrued their hands in the blood of their 
 brethren. He recalled the story of the Prodigal 
 Son ; how, first, he lived with the swine, and ate 
 the husks ; but in the end, at any rate, he was 
 contrite, repented, went home and apologised to 
 his father. The father accepted the apology, and 
 killed the fatted calf in honour of the prodigal's 
 return. These Southerners, however, showed no 
 contrition, no repentance ; they made no apology. 
 They went to their father's house, knocked loudly, 
 and said, when the servant came to the door, 
 " Bring out that veal ! " 
 
 Mr. Wyke brought himself so favourably before 
 the notice of the Foreign Office that he was shortly 
 afterwards appointed Consul-General to the Central 
 States of America. Here again he acted with great 
 tact and discretion. He was made Minister in 
 Mexico at the time of the unfortunate expedition 
 of the Emperor Maximilian, and very cleverly 
 prevented England from being involved in the 
 hostilities undertaken by the French against the 
 Mexicans. Afterwards he was appointed Minister 
 at Hanover with his old schoolmate, the blind
 
 vin LORD JOHN MANNERS 107 
 
 King. Here he remained till Hanover had dis- 
 appeared from the list of States, and then he was 
 appointed, first to Copenhagen, and afterwards to 
 Lisbon, at which place he retired from the service. 
 . Amongst other persons whose acquaintance I 
 made when I was very young was Lord John 
 Manners, later Duke of Rutland, father to the 
 present Duke. From him, through life, I received 
 undeviating kindness. I do not think that I ever 
 met with so noble and high-minded a character. 
 He displayed it in the smallest matters. One night 
 there was a very urgent division, and, though Lord 
 John had been in bed for some days, and his 
 temperature was 104°, he came down to the House, 
 and was drawn through the division -lobby in a 
 bath -chair. 
 
 At one time a movement was set on foot to 
 publish, for some charity, a volume by distinguished 
 writers, to which Lord John Manners was asked 
 to make a literary contribution. As the book 
 was never published, I think I shall not be in- 
 discreet in reproducing this composition, of which 
 I have the manuscript. 
 
 WORDS WRITTEN FOR "REMEMBER ME" 
 
 When 'mid the gay and thoughtless throng 
 
 That fills your Castle-hall, 
 You search for one to whom belong 
 
 Thoughts you would fain recall ; 
 When your bright eye has glanced all round, 
 
 And failed that one to see, 
 When all by thee are worthless found, 
 
 Then you'll remember me.
 
 108 SKILFUL WHIPPING ch. 
 
 When sympathy in vain you strive 
 
 In worldly hearts to find, 
 And vainly bid pure Honor live 
 
 In pleasure's sordid mind ; 
 When 'mid those vanities you sigh 
 
 For Love unbought and free, 
 And Glory's guerdon, bright and high, 
 
 Oh, then remember me ! 
 
 Wealth, and the power that wealth bestows, 
 
 Its luxuries and state, 
 I cannot give ; its pomps and shows 
 
 On others' brides may wait. 
 But should you scorn such low desires, 
 
 And loyal-hearted be, 
 Return these too long slighted fires, 
 
 And, love, remember me ! 
 
 He enclosed it in a letter to the editor : — 
 
 Dear Sir — The above twaddle is all I have to offer you ; 
 
 if you think it worth printing, pray do so ; but I own it 
 
 seems to me on a par with the original — -Yours truly, 
 
 John Manners. 
 Belvoir Castle, January 12, 1850. 
 
 Lord John Manners' great devotion in coming 
 to the House, under such untoward circumstances, 
 reminds me of an anecdote of skilful whipping, 
 told me by General Forester, one of the oldest 
 Members of the House — if not the oldest — who 
 was generally liked and esteemed. 
 
 At the time of an important division, a Member 
 happened to be confined in a lunatic asylum. 
 Every vote was necessary. Arrangements were 
 therefore made to deliver him at the House at 
 the moment required, and he was received by the 
 Whip of his party, who induced him to walk
 
 viii A BOND OF UNION 109 
 
 through the lobby by preceding him with a stick 
 of barley-sugar in his hand. This I believe to be 
 a perfectly true story. 
 
 About this time — though I cannot bind myself 
 to minute chronological accuracy — I made the 
 acquaintance of Mr. Thackeray. I used to dine 
 with him at his house in Young Street, Kensington, 
 his two daughters being then quite children. I 
 first met him at the house of Mr. Kinglake, the 
 author of Eothen, who asked me to stay with him 
 at his house in Taunton. Mr. Thackeray was 
 a great friend of Mr. Charles Buller's. Both 
 had had the bridge of their nose broken. Mr. 
 Thackeray wished to introduce a gentleman to 
 Mr. Buller, and, after expatiating on his virtues, 
 said, touching his nose, " He is one of us." 
 
 I recollect a very interesting conversation that 
 Mr. Thackeray and I had with a farmer, who was a 
 follower of what is now called the Agapemone. 
 In those days, individuals of that creed were called 
 Princeites, after Mr. Prince who had founded them. 
 They did not seem to have any fixed tenets, except 
 belief in Mr. Prince, and their chief form of worship 
 consisted in perpetual games of hockey. I believe 
 they still exist, their residence being somewhere 
 near Bridgewater, where I think Mr. Kinglake had 
 some property. Mr. Kinglake I had known in the 
 country. He was a great friend of Lord Polling- 
 ton, later Lord Mexborough, with whom he had 
 travelled, and who was the " Methley " frequently 
 mentioned in Kothen as Mr. Kinglake's travelling
 
 110 MR KINGLAKE ch. 
 
 companion. Methley is the name of the Yorkshire 
 residence of Lord Mexborough. 
 
 Mr. Kinglake was a man of great humour, with 
 which he was very ready. This may be seen from 
 Eotlien, one of the most charming books of travels 
 ever written. 
 
 On one occasion, a young man, who was a friend 
 of both of us, came to the Athenaeum, in a very 
 perturbed state, asking us to get him out of a 
 scrape. He told us that he had been sitting with 
 a good-looking widow, of about middle age, whom 
 we both knew, and that some genius had tempted 
 him to kiss her. She, he told us, had worked herself 
 up into a great rage, said she had never been so much 
 insulted in her life, and desired him to leave the 
 house. He said to us, " What do you think she will 
 do ? " Kinglake replied, " Beware ! she will pursue 
 you through life with her unrelenting gratitude ! " 
 
 Mr. Kinglake and I had a friend, an old lady of 
 considerable rank, who, however, was constantly 
 deserted by her husband. She consulted Mr. 
 Kinglake on the subject. Her principal grievance 
 was that, when absent, her husband, who used to 
 travel with another lady to whom he gave her 
 name, would direct his letters to herself, " The 
 Dowager Marchioness of " 
 
 All Mr. Kinglake's relatives were persons of 
 great intellect and charming manner. He had 
 one brother, a banker at Taunton, and another, 
 Dr. Hamilton Kinglake, a celebrated physician in 
 Somersetshire. I knew both of them in my youth.
 
 viii DEBATES 111 
 
 About this time, I also formed an acquaintance 
 with another Eastern traveller, a great friend of 
 Mr. Kinglake's, but rather a contrast to him. This 
 was Mr. Eliot Warburton, the author of a book 
 of Eastern travels, called The Crescent and the 
 Cross. Poor man, he was lost afterwards in the 
 destruction of the steamer Amazon, in which he 
 was going to Panama on some expedition. He was 
 very agreeable, and somewhat sentimental; while 
 Mr. Kinglake was also agreeable, but a little bit 
 cynical. 
 
 Together with these two travellers, I was also 
 well acquainted with Mr. Layard. In later life, I 
 had occasion to see a great deal of him, and to do 
 business with him on Oriental politics. 
 
 The occupation I liked best in those days was 
 attending debates in the House of Commons, and 
 this, owing to the good-nature of some Members of 
 Parliament who also belonged to the Alfred Club, 
 I was enabled to do very frequently, and thus 
 witnessed some interesting episodes. 
 
 On one occasion, I recollect Lord Dudley Stuart, 
 the great advocate of the Poles, made a complaint 
 against Lord Palmerston. He said : 
 
 During the last session, I asked the noble Lord to give me 
 some papers relative to Hungary, and he agreed to my un- 
 opposed motion. Later in the session, I asked him why the 
 papers had not been delivered, and he explained that he had 
 been too busy to go through them. Again I called on him 
 at the Foreign Office, and he expressed his great regret at 
 the delay, and pointed out two or three large boxes which 
 he said contained the papers, adding that, as soon as he
 
 112 A USEFUL GUEST ch. 
 
 possibly could, he would go through them and have them 
 circulated. Now nearly a year has passed. I called upon 
 him again the other day, and he said to me, " I quite sym- 
 pathise with you, and if I were in your case I should be very 
 angry." I now ask the noble Lord if he intends shortly to 
 give me the papers. 
 
 Every one thought Lord Palmerston was placed 
 in a dilemma by this address from one of his 
 supporters, and he rose to answer. He said : 
 
 My noble friend is perfectly right in his narrative of 
 what has passed. I did promise him the papers, but I was 
 unfortunately unable to go through them. I did tell him I 
 thought he was very badly treated, and that, if I had been 
 treated in the same manner, I should feel very much aggrieved. 
 I did show him the boxes which contain the papers. All I 
 can do now is to repeat what I said before — that I think he 
 has been very badly treated ; that I should be very much 
 aggrieved if I were treated in such a manner myself ; that, 
 unfortunately, the papers are still in those boxes, but I really 
 will go through them as soon as I can. 
 
 The House laughed, and the matter ended, poor 
 Lord Dudley Stuart having gained very little by 
 his motion. 
 
 One of Lord Palmerstons colleagues in the 
 Cabinet — well known for his love of dining out — 
 asked him why a certain Ambassador was con- 
 stantly asking him to dinner. Lord Palmerston 
 replied, " Don't you know ? His Government 
 always pays for the dinner if a Cabinet Minister 
 is present. The Ambassador knows that in you 
 there is a sure find. In fact, you pay for nearly 
 half his dinners. The rest are distributed amongst 
 our other colleagues."
 
 viii MR. DAVID URQUHART 113 
 
 There is an old saying that men reach distinction 
 as much by the heart as by the head, and this was 
 certainly the case with Lord Palmerston. It was 
 pleasant to see the geniality with which he elbowed 
 his way through the crowd of Members who were 
 going into the House of Lords at the opening or 
 closing of Parliament. 
 
 About this time, the beginning of my career, 
 a set attack was made upon him by Mr. David 
 Urquhart, who had been in the Diplomatic Service, 
 and had left it on account of a quarrel, I believe 
 with Lord Palmerston, whom he accused of receiv- 
 ing money from the Russian Government. It was 
 declared that £20,000 had been lent to him by a 
 lady known to be a great friend of his, the Princess 
 Lieven, wife of the Russian Minister, and that, in 
 consideration of this, Lord Palmerston had yielded 
 unnecessarily to some demand of the Russian 
 Government. Mr. Urquhart was supported in his 
 attack by Mr. Chisholm Anstey, a barrister of 
 enormous learning and research, though sometimes 
 rather prolix in his speeches. Of course, Lord 
 Palmerston easily disposed of these charges, and 
 made a long speech, going into all the circum- 
 stances. Subsequently Mr. Chisholm Anstey be- 
 came reconciled with Lord Palmerston, and was 
 invited to one of Lady Palmerston's parties. Mr. 
 Urquhart, complaining of his conduct, said, " He 
 sold me for a lemon ice ! " 
 
 Mr. Urquhart had many peculiarities. He con- 
 sidered that a Turkish bath was a panacea for all 
 
 vol. i I
 
 114 THE TIMES AS A COSTUME ch. 
 
 ills. Once, I believe, he prescribed one for a child, 
 which made him very unpopular in his neighbour- 
 hood. He also had a mania that children should 
 be brought up without clothing of any kind. A 
 close disciple of his is said to have taken one of 
 his sons — no longer very young — entirely destitute 
 of clothing, into a train. The other passengers 
 objected to this absence of costume, whereupon 
 the father, declaring that it was only an absurd 
 prejudice, bought an uncut Times, and folded it 
 round the boy. 
 
 One day I happened to be dining in the coffee- 
 room of the House of Commons, which was then 
 only a temporary building, with very rough accom- 
 modation, and Mr. Chisholm Anstey was there. 
 At other tables were sitting Lord Palmerston and 
 Sir James Graham. Mr. Anstey went in a shy 
 way to Sir James Graham, who was reading a 
 newspaper, and said, " How do you do, Sir James 
 Graham ? " The latter looked up at him, and 
 saying, " How do you do, Mr. Anstey ? " resumed 
 his reading. Mr. Anstey then went to Lord 
 Palmerston, and said, " How do you do, Lord 
 Palmerston ? " Lord Palmerston looked at him 
 and said, " Oh, Anstey, how d'ye do ? Now sit 
 down. You have heard what this man has been 
 saying in the House. You know something about 
 it. Just sit down and let me know what you think 
 of his argument." Mr. Anstey was delighted with 
 his reception, and the contrast of the two manners 
 easily showed why Lord Palmerston was so popular,
 
 vni MR. BERNAL OSBORNE 115 
 
 and Sir James Graham so much the reverse. As 
 Lord Carlingford used to say, the secret of Lord 
 Palmerston's popularity lay in the fact that he was 
 " understanded of the people." 
 
 I am not attempting to relate any of these 
 circumstances in chronological order, but merely 
 to group them together as well as I can, before 
 dismissing them. 
 
 Amongst other Members of Parliament who had 
 a great reputation for wit was Mr. Bernal Osborne. 
 He never rose in the House but to create a laugh. 
 I was told that at one time he was A.D.C. to 
 Lord Normanby, then Viceroy of Ireland, and 
 among others of the Viceregal staff was Mr. Frank 
 Sheridan, a brother of Lady Dufferin, the Duchess 
 of Somerset, and Mrs. Norton. Mr. Sheridan was 
 asked to stand for some constituency, but, though 
 a great wit, he was a poor speaker, and he did not 
 know how to address a meeting. The following 
 arrangement was therefore made between him and 
 Mr. Osborne. They went together to the town 
 where the meeting was to be held, Mr. Sheridan 
 going on the platform, while Mr. Osborne, dressed 
 in a smock-frock, stood in the crowd as one of the 
 electors. Mr. Sheridan then made a very short 
 speech, ending it by saying that he thought the 
 arrangement most satisfactory to the electors would 
 be that they should ask any questions they liked. 
 Thereupon Mr. Bernal Osborne, in his smock-frock, 
 asked him a pre-arranged series of questions, and, 
 having received answers, declared himself perfectly
 
 116 AN APT QUOTATION ch. 
 
 satisfied, and moved a vote of confidence in the 
 candidate. 
 
 On another occasion, an elector in the hall 
 contradicted Mr. Osborne, in a manner rather 
 convincing to the audience. Mr. Osborne said : 
 " If the gentleman will only come on to the plat- 
 form, I can give him a satisfactory explanation." 
 Room being made, the interrupter moved with 
 difficulty to the platform, where Mr. Osborne was 
 seen speaking earnestly to him for a few minutes. 
 Then he came forward, saying, " The gentleman 
 has apologised." Tremendous cheering followed, 
 notwithstanding violent gesticulations of denial by 
 the elector, and the resolution — the last one — was 
 carried in Mr. Osborne's favour. 
 
 Once, when the Burials Bill was being discussed, 
 Mr. Lowe rather shocked public taste by saying 
 that he could not make out why so much fuss was 
 made about a lot of musty old bones. This was 
 taken up by Members who were offended at the 
 expression ; but Mr. Bernal Osborne, rising to 
 defend his friend, said that the House must recollect 
 the old adage, "De mortuis nil nisi bonum" 
 
 Mr. Bernal Osborne was very quick of repartee. 
 Once, at a party, a young lady whom he knew 
 well was passing near him, and he called her to 
 come to sit by him. She remonstrated, saying, 
 " You call me as you would a cab." He replied, 
 "At any rate, a Hansom cab." 
 
 There used to be more than one notable wit 
 in the Viceregal Court at Dublin. A gentleman
 
 viii IRRELEVANT ANECDOTES 117 
 
 named Corry Connellan was renowned for his 
 brilliant sayings. He was a very bad sailor. On 
 one occasion, when crossing the Channel, he made 
 use of a hatbox he found near him on deck, in 
 connection with his illness. The owner of the hat- 
 box came up roughly, and said, " 1 say, sir, that's 
 not your hatbox." Mr. Connellan faintly replied, 
 " Obviously not." 
 
 The following anecdote, though irrelevant to 
 the general course of this book, is brought to my 
 mind by the story 1 have just told. A French 
 gentleman once said to my colleague, Mr. Thomas 
 Bruce, in allusion to sea-sickness : " Quant a moi, 
 quandje me sens sur le point de succomber, je pense 
 a une jolie femme — a Marie Stuart /" 
 
 Another amusing little passage that I remember 
 took place in the House of Commons. Mr. Wyld, 
 the map-maker, when attacking the Government, 
 made use of the expression, "During the recent 
 debate, some party observed . . ." Mr. Disraeli, 
 in his reply, said : " The honourable Member for 
 Bodmin has stated that during the recent debate 
 some ' party ' made certain observations. Sir, / 
 am the party." 
 
 Another original in the House of Commons in 
 those days was Mr. Grantley Berkeley. He was 
 a very powerful man in appearance, a great 
 sportsman, with much humour, and a strong 
 Gloucestershire accent. In Parliament at the 
 same time were Mr. Spooner, who represented tlie 
 Protestant party, and Mr. Hume, the economist.
 
 118 APPEAL TO THE SPEAKER ch. 
 
 Mr. Hume had said something outside the House 
 which Mr. Spooner disliked. He consequently 
 invited Mr. Hume to come to the House at a 
 certain time for an explanation. 1 forget what 
 the subject was ; but both gentlemen, being very 
 elderly and evidently physically frail, seemed much 
 moved by the incident. After a mutual explana- 
 tion, Mr. Grantley Berkeley rose, and, appealing 
 to the Speaker, asked him to exact from these 
 two gentlemen an assurance that thev would not 
 commit a breach of the peace. 
 
 On another occasion, Mr. Grantley Berkeley, 
 who was never on good terms with Mr. Bright, 
 had some difference with him. Mr. Bright quoted 
 some friend of his as observing that if Mr. Berkeley 
 had not been born a gentleman, he would have 
 been a gamekeeper. To this Mr. Berkeley replied 
 that if Mr. Bright had not been born a Quaker, he 
 would have been a prize-fighter. 
 
 I recollect a debate in the House of Commons 
 in 18.50, when Mr. lloebuck brought in a motion 
 on the foreign policy of the Government concern- 
 ing Greece. Lord Palmerston made a long and 
 successful speech in reply. I am much pleased 
 still to possess a copy. He gave one to every 
 clerk in the Foreign Office, and in it were many 
 points that helped to render me familiar with the 
 various subjects that I came across when, years 
 afterwards, I was stationed in the Ionian Islands 
 myself, and took some part in the administration. 
 
 Amongst others connected with the House of
 
 viii MEMBER FOR 'HARROGATE' 119 
 
 Commons was an eminent barrister, who, unfor- 
 tunately, was not very particular about the letter 
 H. In one speech he more than once repeated 
 his astonishment that the gentleman to whom he 
 was replying " should harrogate to himself" certain 
 qualities. The Member, in his answer, described the 
 distinguished lawyer as "the honourable Member 
 for Harrogate."
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 Prince Louis Napoleon — The Spanish Marriages — Disturbances in 
 England — Dismissal of Sir Henry Bulwer by the Spanish Govern- 
 ment — Visit to Paris — La Propriete c'est le Vol — Society in Paris — 
 Proclamation of Prince-President — Meetings with Napoleon III. 
 
 On the 10th of April, 1848, I remember seeing 
 a detachment of special constables, among whom, 
 I was told, was Prince Louis Napoleon. Towards 
 the close of the same year, I was present at a party 
 given, I think, by Mrs. Mountjoy Martin, where 
 he was also a guest. Shortly afterwards he left 
 England for France. 
 
 In 1846-47 the incident known as the Spanish 
 Marriages had produced the greatest excitement 
 in France. M. Guizot acceded to office on the 
 resignation of Marechal Soult. The French people 
 fancied that they saw a determination on the 
 part of Louis Philippe to cultivate the goodwill 
 of Austria and other despotic powers, so as to 
 aggrandise his own family, with the prospect of 
 securing the Spanish Crown for one of his grand- 
 children. The unpopularity of Louis Philippe 
 became more marked in 1848, and the anger of 
 the people culminated at the prohibition of a 
 
 120
 
 ch.ix TENTH OF APRIL RIOTS 121 
 
 Reform banquet by the Ministers. When M. 
 Odillon Barrot, on the 22nd of February, laid on 
 the table of the House of Deputies an Act of 
 Impeachment, great excitement was aroused, which 
 ended in the Revolution. The feeling extended to 
 other countries, even to England. The Chartists 
 made great demonstrations. I recollect on one 
 occasion, when driving down to the Foreign Office 
 in a cab, I was stopped by crowds in Charing 
 Cross, shouting seditious cries. They had got 
 hold of a phrase, much used in Paris at the time, 
 A has Guizot ! thinking it applicable to English 
 politics. I give extracts from a few letters I wrote 
 at the time, and which I only recently found among 
 the correspondence of a relative. 
 
 Foreign Office, 
 February 26, 1848. 
 
 I suppose you have heai'd of the deposition of Louis 
 Philippe, the sack of the Tuileries and the Palais Royal, 
 and the proclamation of the Provisional Government, all of 
 whom, except Odillon Barrot, insist on having a Republic. 
 There was a report last night that Louis Philippe was at 
 Mix-art's and was coming. I, however, with a friend, waited 
 till half-past one this morning in the hopes of seeing him ; 
 but he has not yet arrived. He was obliged to escape in a 
 brougham. 
 
 April 5. 
 
 I have just been sworn in as special constable, and have 
 been given my badge, staff, and warrant, and am conse- 
 quently empowered to do anything I like to anybody. 
 Admiral Bowles is my captain. 
 
 April 10. 
 
 Tremendous consternation is now prevailing. Every office 
 in London is armed except ours, and I believe that is to be. 
 Somerset House has a chevaux-de-frise, arms, hand-grenades,
 
 122 SPECIAL CONSTABLES or. 
 
 a commissariat, and a hospital. All we have is our staves 
 as constables. We were ordered to be here at ten o'clock 
 this morning, and here we came. No work is done. A 
 dinner is laid out for us, and the windows are being barri- 
 caded. I am in charge of my room. There is a tremendous 
 row expected. The Post Office clerks are armed, provisioned, 
 and organised in bodies of ten. Colonel Maberley drills 
 them all. Every one in London is, I believe, a " special." 
 
 Really it is shocking the state London is in. in a 
 
 tremendous temper, swearing at evervbody and everything, 
 and everybody and everything swearing at him. The row 
 will not begin, I fancy, till the afternoon, when it will be 
 
 tremendous. 
 
 April 11. 
 
 I continue this to-day. We had muskets sent here, but 
 Feargus O'Connor having dispersed the crowd, we had our 
 dinner at four o'clock, at which everybody attended. After- 
 wards about thirty of us went into the nursery and smoked, 
 singing " God save the Queen." With trumpets also and 
 shawms we celebrated our victory. Some slept here. At 
 seven I went away and joined my own division at Half Moon 
 Street. Had command of two men. Patrolled till ten. 
 Took up a drunken man. As he would not walk, I com- 
 manded all Her Majesty's lieges, constables or not, to assist 
 me. We carried him up Bolton and Curzon Streets among 
 the hoots of the assembled crowd to our rendezvous in 
 Shepherd's Market, where we left him to sleep off his 
 drunkenness. So we had very good fun on the whole. 
 
 A circumstance which about this time occupied 
 the Foreign Office very much was the dismissal of 
 Sir Henry Bulwer by the Spanish Government. 
 
 Lord Palmerston on March 16, 1848, had 
 written a despatch to Sir Henry Bulwer, criticising 
 the state of politics in Spain. In this despatch he 
 counselled the Queen of Spain to strengthen her 
 executive government — having regard to the recent 
 downfall of the King of the French — and to call
 
 ix STRONG LANGUAGE 123 
 
 to her counsels some of the men in whom the 
 Liberal party placed its confidence. This was 
 communicated by Sir Henry Bulwer to the Duke 
 of Sotomayor, and an answer was sent protesting 
 against Lord Palmerston's despatch. One or two 
 passages in the reply were singularly strong for a 
 diplomatic document. One was : 
 
 Your conduct in the execution of your important 
 mission has been reprobated by public opinion in England, 
 censured in the British press, and condemned in the British 
 Parliament. Her Catholic Majesty's Government cannot 
 defend it, and that of Her Britannic Majesty has not done so. 
 
 The conduct of the Spanish Government 
 was attributed to an allegation that Sir Henry 
 Bulwer, at the instigation of Lord Palmerston, 
 had been engaged in plots against the Govern- 
 ment. This, though never proved, obtained 
 unsubstantiated confirmation from the fact that 
 in some military disturbances at different points 
 in Spain, personal friends of Sir Henry Bulwer's 
 were said to have taken part. On the 19th 
 of March, 1848, therefore, Sir Henry Bulwer 
 received his passports, accompanied by a peremp- 
 tory notice to quit the kingdom within forty- 
 eight hours. He left Madrid, as was necessary 
 in those days, in a postchaise, having with him 
 one of his attaches, Mr. FitzPatrick Vernon, son 
 of the gentleman who was subsequently named 
 Lord Lyveden. Mr. Vernon declared that Sir 
 Henry Bulwer was writing incessantly during the 
 whole of the journey, giving him — Mr. Vernon —
 
 124 A SHOCK TO VANITY ch. 
 
 his inkstand to hold. At last fatigue overtook 
 him, and he dropped the inkstand over Sir Henry 
 Bulwer, who, being very particular about his dress, 
 was excessively annoyed. 
 
 Towards the end of that December, accom- 
 panied by Mr. — now Sir Arthur — Otway, I paid a 
 visit to Paris, then abandoned by nearly all visitors 
 on account of the disordered state of politics. The 
 journey to Paris was not so easy then as it is now. 
 I recollect at a much later period than this when it 
 was a novelty for the journey to take only twelve 
 hours. 
 
 On this occasion we found it necessary to take 
 our places on a steamer at Dover, which enabled 
 us to reach Amiens the same night. There we 
 slept, and the next day we arrived in Paris. On 
 my journey I received a blow. An English lady 
 and gentleman were travelling in the same carriage. 
 I happened to fall asleep, and, when half awake, I 
 heard the lady say to her husband, pointing at me, 
 " Isn't he like Mr. Toots ?" 
 
 Paris, which, as already stated, was very little 
 frequented that winter, was exceptionally cheap. 
 Carriages could be hired for very little. Theatres 
 were only half full. There was a celebrated play, 
 or revue, called La Propriete cest le Vol, in 
 which the authors had sarcastically reviewed the 
 events of the year. The representation was sup- 
 posed to begin with the Creation, and the first 
 scene represented Adam and Eve. The serpent 
 then appeared, with the face and spectacles of
 
 ix FRIENDS IN PARIS 125 
 
 Proudhon, the celebrated Socialist writer who had 
 been a leader in the Revolution, and had published 
 in 1840 a famous work entitled What is Property ? 
 He re-appeared through every section of the 
 play, always with the same face, until the time 
 arrived when Socialist principles entirely triumphed. 
 Money was abolished, and bargains could only be 
 established by barter. One great joke in the play 
 was a market to which a man came with a stuffed 
 crocodile on his shoulders, asking who would give 
 change for a stuffed crocodile. The change was 
 a small piece of furniture. 
 
 Among the few people who remained in Paris 
 was Lady Elgin, who had a house, I think, in the 
 Faubourg St. Honore, and who gave a party for 
 charity, at which were present the Duke and 
 Duchess of Calabritto, Mr. and Mrs. Butler (he 
 was a brother of Lord Dunboyne), Mr. and Mrs. 
 Montmorency, Sir William Massey Stanley, and 
 many others. I was very hospitably entertained 
 by Mr. Lyon, to whom I had letters, and who 
 lived in the Place Vendome. He was a relative 
 of Lord Kilmaine's, and well known in Paris for his 
 dinners. By him I was introduced to another 
 gentleman, also well known in Paris — Mr. Wallace 
 Greaves. 
 
 Lord Normanby was the Ambassador. The 
 "paid attaches," as they were then called, were 
 Mr. Edwardes — later Minister in Frankfort ; Sir 
 Augustus Paget, afterwards Ambassador at Rome 
 and Vienna, and Mr. — later Sir William — Stuart,
 
 126 MADAME BLAZE DE BURY ch. 
 
 a brother of Lord Blantyre, who, after a very 
 successful diplomatic career, died comparatively 
 young. 
 
 Mr. Windsor Heneage was private secretary to 
 the Ambassador. He was very agreeable and 
 popular in society, to which he was much devoted. 
 It is alleged that on one occasion, late in the 
 morning, the Ambassador wished for the services 
 of his private secretary, and that the servant found 
 Mr. Heneage, on the staircase, returning from a 
 fancy bail in the costume of a devil. 
 
 Shortly before that time a lady created a great 
 sensation as an authoress. Her name was Madame 
 Blaze de Bury. Her husband was a well-known 
 writer in the Revue des Deux Mondes — if not the 
 editor. Before the rising against Louis Philippe, 
 Madame Blaze de Bury had written a novel called 
 Mildred Vernon, in which she was supposed to have 
 been assisted by Lord Brougham. It described the 
 excesses of Parisian society, particularly at a ball 
 given at the Opera, where a well-known lady 
 appeared masked, and attracted universal attention 
 by the skill with which she performed a popular 
 dance of a very free description. 
 
 At length came the day when Louis Napoleon 
 was proclaimed President. Sir Arthur Otway, 
 Colonel Gordon-Cumming and I went to the 
 review, piloted by an old soldier, then a cele- 
 brated bootmaker, who was a sergeant-major of 
 the National Guard, named Mausse or Mause, 
 who obtained places for us in the ranks of his
 
 hmm mAimmm mmipamis 
 
 ne a Paris. lc 20 Avnl 1808 
 Elu le 20 X w i848 
 
 Oi^ ^^wC/^
 
 ix THE PRINCE-PRESIDENT 127 
 
 corps. We were provided with muskets, and 
 there was nothing extraordinary in our plain 
 clothes, as many of the National Guard themselves 
 were without uniform. 
 
 It was a bright frosty morning, and all Paris 
 seemed in high spirits. Bands were playing gay 
 tunes, and, while waiting for the march past, many 
 of the National Guard danced fantastic quadrilles, 
 all evidently exhilarated by the termination of the 
 struggle. At length the signal was given, and the 
 Prince-President approached with his staff. My 
 friends and I, who were in the front rank, pre- 
 sented arms when he passed. Thus I witnessed 
 his official entry into France. 
 
 A foreign gentleman, who was in some busi- 
 ness and knew Sir Arthur Otway, afterwards 
 described the difficulty he had when meeting 
 the excited crowds that moved about the streets. 
 He said they were divided into two factions, one 
 the Tricolor and the other the Red. He had there- 
 fore a double-breasted coat, on one side of which 
 was the red cockade, on the other the tricolor, 
 and when he had ascertained to which party any 
 crowd that approached him belonged, he buttoned 
 his coat so as to show the proper cockade. Thus 
 he used to be cheered by the crowds on both 
 sides. 
 
 An odd thing occurred at that time which I 
 remember being related to me. A French gentle- 
 man, married to a very good-looking Englishwoman 
 — he himself not being a man of very strong
 
 128 NAPOLEON III chix 
 
 intellect — was met by a friend walking a long- 
 distance outside one of the gates of Paris. This 
 friend asked him what he was doing in so out-of- 
 the-way a place. He replied that he had come to 
 buy some stamps at a little post-office there. His 
 friend said, " Postage-stamps are the same all over 
 the place. Why don't you buy them at an office 
 near your own house ?" The gentleman replied, 
 " My wife says there are no stamps like these, and 
 she will not use any others." 
 
 Later on I was presented to Napoleon III., 
 when Emperor, at a ball at the Tuileries, and years 
 later again I had an audience of him concerning a 
 proposal for improving the communication between 
 Dover and Calais. The audience was given me at 
 the request of his early friend, Lord Malmesbury, 
 to whom I had been private secretary when at the 
 Foreign Office, and of Mr. Algernon Borthwick, both 
 of whom supported the project. The Emperor 
 was much interested, and invited me to return 
 later to discuss the plan ; but meanwhile other 
 circumstances intervened. It was not long before 
 the final catastrophe, and I never saw him again 
 until 1 870, immediately after Sedan. It was there- 
 fore my lot to see Napoleon III. first in exile ; then 
 on his official entry into France as President ; next, 
 in the height of his fortunes as Emperor ; and 
 last, at his final departure from France and his 
 return as a prisoner into exile. Scarcely any one 
 else, except those attached to him personally, can 
 have witnessed all these events in his life.
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 Holiday in Spain — Journey to Madrid — Bull-fight— Queen Isabella- 
 Spanish acquaintances — English friends in Spain— Spanish titles — 
 Funeral of the Prince of Asturias — Connection of Spain with the 
 East — Journey to England. 
 
 In 1850 I took my holiday by a journey to Spain. 
 I had' heard so much of the charms of that country 
 from my friend Captain Wrottesley, and from the 
 family of Sir John Burgoyne, that I longed to go 
 and see it. 
 
 Certainly, it then possessed much of the romance 
 of the Spain of Gil Bias. My holiday was taken 
 during the month of May, and I travelled in com- 
 pany with a gentleman of both French and English 
 origin. Though the weather was occasionally hot, 
 it gave us the best part of Southern life. 
 
 We travelled on the banquette of a diligence, 
 there being no railway farther than Tours. The 
 diligence, which we mounted at the Rue Notre 
 Dame des Victoires, was driven to the railway 
 station. There the whole body in its three 
 compartments, and with all its passengers and 
 luggage, was swung by a crane from its wheels and 
 placed on a truck. On arriving at Tours, it was 
 
 VOL. I 129 K
 
 130 BORDEAUX oh. 
 
 again swung off and placed on wheels, on which it 
 remained as far as San Sebastian. 
 
 We stopped at about ten o'clock in the morning 
 at Chatelherault, celebrated for its cutlery, and an 
 hour later the long line of poplars began that 
 led into Poitiers. It is an avenue of a mile in 
 length, along a road cut out of the solid rock, 
 which, rugged and quarried, is seen overhanging 
 it. Below the beautiful river Ain completes the 
 picture. 1 long possessed a hat I bought there, 
 called in the slang of the day democ-soc, as being 
 the favourite headwear of the Democratic and 
 Socialist party. This was white, and later on I 
 found in Italy a hat of the same kind, but brown 
 in colour. This also had a revolutionary name. 
 Brown, being the colour of the dress of the 
 religious orders, was called color pazienza. It was 
 affected by the revolutionaries, as meaning that 
 they waited their time. 
 
 Bordeaux surprised me very much. For some 
 reason I had always expected it to be a some- 
 what dirty seaside town. I found it, though 
 not so large, superior to Paris, with wide streets, 
 splendid buildings, and lofty apartments. The 
 friend who was travelling with me — he was a con- 
 nection of Admiral Sir Harry Neill — here found 
 a friend or relative with whom we explored the 
 tower of St. Michel. Under it is a vault, having, 
 as Theophile Gautier expresses it, " the property 
 of mummifying the corpses placed there." My 
 friend was rather fond of good living, and had
 
 x OLD SPAIN 131 
 
 spoken of the wonderful Bordeaux cookery, 
 which lie had not exaggerated. At Bordeaux, 
 Spain begins to make its appearance. The signs 
 of the shops are both Spanish and French, while 
 the Basque costume and the dark brunettes seem 
 more of the former than the latter nation. Cer- 
 tainly the old diligence-travelling made you better 
 acquainted with the countries you visited than do 
 the present railways. 
 
 Having crossed the frontier, we passed the Bay 
 of Pasages, near San Sebastian, a beautiful piece of 
 scenery, no longer to be seen from the train. At 
 San Sebastian we made acquaintance with the 
 Royal Alameda and public walk, and got down 
 at the Parador Real, having seen — for we counted 
 them — thirteen ladies in mantillas. Passing the 
 fonda, through a stable, we ascended a fine though 
 somewhat dirty staircase to the first floor of the 
 house, where we found dark lofty rooms and long 
 narrow passages. Though since then I have often 
 been at San Sebastian, 1 never found this hotel 
 again. It was very interesting — servants, gentle- 
 men, priests and heretics sat at the same board, 
 chaffing the pretty girl who waited. Dolores, the 
 maid of the inn, was very brilliant in this respect : 
 she laughed at my Spanish, boxed the young priest's 
 ears, and gave several proofs of a lively disposition. 
 Alas ! these days are gone. Everything was 
 thoroughly Spanish, and now that seems to have 
 nearly passed away. 
 
 The road from San Sebastian to Tolosa was very
 
 132 BULL-FIGHTING ch. 
 
 beautiful. It is a pity that modern travel is 
 so little picturesque. At Medina del Ebro our 
 luggage was again examined, for, while free trade 
 reigned in the Basque Provinces, strict protective 
 duties were prevalent in Castile. Even at the 
 present day there is a different system in the 
 frontier provinces. 
 
 The inn at Madrid, to which we drove, has fallen 
 from its position as the best hotel, though giving 
 up some of its old peculiarities. It was called the 
 Fonda Peninsulares, and still exists in the Calle de 
 Alcala, near the Puerta del Sol. There we had our 
 first view of the Calle de Alcala and an experience 
 of a Madrid cafe. The Fonda Peninsulares was so 
 built that the diligences drove under a high arch 
 into an enclosed yard. A large staircase led up 
 to the first floor, where the bedroom doors opened 
 on a square gallery running round an open yard. 
 The perfume of stables was redolent throughout 
 the building. 
 
 One of our first visits was to a bull -fight, 
 but, except on this holiday, when I saw several, I 
 have never attended one. It was very gay and 
 amusing, but has been so often described that little 
 need be said about it. We saw two of the most 
 famous bull -fighters of Spain. One was the 
 celebrated Montes ; the other, his nephew, Jose 
 Redondo — known as the chiclanero, being a native 
 of the city of Chiclana. Queen Isabella was rather 
 fond of bull-fights, and this, no doubt, contributed 
 to her great personal popularity. Some time before
 
 x QUEEN ISABELLA 133 
 
 our arrival, Montes had performed a feat unparalleled 
 even in his palmiest days, and Queen Isabella was 
 so delighted that she offered him whatever he might 
 require. Kneeling before the Royal canopy, he 
 begged Her Majesty to pardon one, more sinned 
 against than sinning, who was condemned to 
 execution. The prayer was granted, and the 
 rumour spread like wildfire among the spectators. 
 As in former years, they showered gold on the 
 generous bull-fighter. His cap was heavy with 
 these gifts, and, giving the whole amount to a 
 
 friend of the criminal, he said, " Give this to . 
 
 Tell him he will no longer want, and let him sin 
 no more/' 
 
 On returning home, we saw in a large 
 open barouche, drawn by eight cream-coloured 
 Andalusian horses, Queen Isabella herself, accom- 
 panied by her camarera mayor. Behind them, in 
 another carriage, were the King Consort and his 
 father. Queen Isabella was always popular. She 
 had great charm of manner — geniality blended with 
 dignity. She was thoroughly adapted to the tastes 
 of the Spanish people, being generous and fond of 
 amusement, and many of the churches throughout 
 Spain still possess the diamond necklaces which 
 she bestowed on the pictures of the Virgin in the 
 Cathedral. 
 
 I made the acquaintance of Don Pascual de 
 (xjiyangos, one of the most celebrated literary men 
 of Spain. He was a great Arabic scholar, and, I 
 think. Professor of the University of Alcala. He
 
 134 PICNICS IN SPAIN ch. 
 
 invited me to stay with him at his country-house, 
 at a village called Pozuelo. Though the place was 
 only six miles from Madrid, in those days the post 
 only came to it twice a week. Here I enjoyed 
 real Spanish life. Don Pascual had married an 
 Englishwoman, and had one son and a daughter. 
 The latter married Serior Riano, a well-known 
 writer and Director-General of Public Instruction. 
 I met them later when in Spain ; but Madame 
 Riano, I regret to say, died recently. Not far 
 from Pozuelo was the chateau of Boadilla, which 
 then belonged to the Countess of Chinchon, the 
 daughter of Godoy. It was beautifully situated 
 and well wooded. Later, at Florence, I made the 
 acquaintance of the Marquis of Boadilla, Duke of 
 Sueca, who married Miss Martellini, daughter of 
 the lady who had long been confidential Lady 
 of Honour to the Grand Duchess. 
 
 We used to make picnics to various places in 
 the neighbourhood. The equivalent of " picnic " 
 in Spanish seems to be borricada, which means 
 to donkeys what a cavalcade means to horses. 
 
 At this time there was no British Legation at 
 Madrid, no Minister having been sent after the 
 expulsion of Sir Henry Bulwer. The Consulate 
 was occupied by Mr. Brackenbury, of the well- 
 known consular family, who was excessively amiable 
 and serviceable. I also happened to know M. de 
 Montherot, the first French Secretary, a nephew 
 of M. de Lamartine, who had given me a letter 
 for him. At his house I met the Baron de
 
 x MADRID 135 
 
 Bourgoing, the French Ambassador. I was kept at 
 Madrid, as I had undertaken to make some inquiries 
 for Lord Howden, who had just been appointed 
 Minister, and these took rather more time than I 
 had anticipated. As I was going back to Paris, his 
 carriage passed the malle-poste in which I was 
 travelling. I had time, however, to see Aranjuez 
 and the Escorial. There I made the acquaintance 
 of one of the most celebrated writers and politicians 
 of the day — Serior Alcala de Galiano. He had 
 been Minister abroad as well as in Spain itself, 
 and was a relative of that distinguished diplomatist, 
 not long ago Ambassador in London, Count Casa 
 Valencia. He showed us all that was worth seeing 
 in the place, and gave us historical descriptions 
 which were most interesting and full of infor- 
 mation. 
 
 At Madrid, I met Mrs. Stopford, whose husband, 
 Colonel Stopford, had held some office in Spain, and 
 who kept an open and hospitable house. She was 
 the mother of Lady Charles Beauclerk. There were 
 also a few English gentlemen who had fought in the 
 Carlist wars and selected their domicile in Spain. 
 I made the acquaintance of Mr. O'Shea the banker, 
 who had become almost a Spaniard. One of his 
 daughters married the late Colonel Fane, and the 
 other the late Mr. George Vaughan, who was so 
 well known in London. His nephew, Mr. Robert 
 Owen, commonly known as " Don Roberto," was 
 exceedingly kind to us during our stay. Mr. 
 Q'Shea's son had married a lady possessing the
 
 136 SPANISH TITLES ch. 
 
 title of Duchess of San Lucar, and he became, in 
 consequence, the Duke of San Lucar. 
 
 In Spain, husbands and wives confer on each 
 other their titles, that is to say, the Duchess of A. 
 marries Count B., and on her cards she inscribes 
 " Duchess of A., Countess B." The husband does 
 the converse. Spanish titles go in direct descent, 
 whether to sons or daughters, and many of the great 
 names of Spain have descended through females, 
 among others those of Alba and Medina Sidonia. 
 Most Spanish grandees have several titles, and these 
 they can confer on their sons and daughters, with 
 the exception of the principal title. The result is 
 that new great families are constantly created, as the 
 wives confer their titles on their husbands, whether 
 or not born noble. If the wife dies, the title goes 
 to her son, and her husband is called the Duque 
 Biudo, or the widowed Duke. Thus titles exist in 
 great numbers in Spain. There are more than one 
 hundred dukes, twelve hundred marquises, and 
 twelve hundred counts. The titles which are less 
 numerous are those of viscount and baron. 
 
 Some of the grandees have great plurality of 
 titles and several grandeeships. The Duke of 
 Albas principal title is Duke of Berwick. The 
 names of the late Duke combined, in an interesting 
 manner, his two nationalities. His Christian names 
 were Carlos Maria Stuart FitzJames Portocarrero 
 Palafox Vintimiglia. To these he added, as titles 
 inherited through women, the duchies of Alba di 
 Tonnes, of Liria, of Conde-Duque Olivarez and
 
 x GRANDEESHIPS 137 
 
 of Periaranda. He had eleven marquisates, one of 
 them with a grandeeship ; fifteen countships, to 
 three of which a grandeeship was annexed, one 
 being the title of Count de Montijo, which he 
 inherited from his mother, sister of the Empress 
 of the French. His residence in Madrid is the 
 Palacio Liria. The late Duchess made an interest- 
 ing collection of archives and autograph MSS. of 
 distinguished people. She was remarkably intelli- 
 gent, and daughter of the Duke of Fernan-Nunez. 
 
 The Dukes of Medina Coeli, who were Counts 
 up to 1368, and have been Dukes since 1479, 
 enjoy eight dukedoms, sixteen marquisates, two 
 of them with grandeeships ; twelve countships, to 
 one of which a grandeeship is annexed ; and three 
 viscountcies. 
 
 The grandeeship has very peculiar qualities. 
 An ordinary gentleman or a person with any minor 
 title having a grandeeship takes precedence of 
 dukes whose grandeeship is junior. The only 
 exception is in the case of Court functionaries. 
 
 One event occurred during my stay at Madrid 
 which was excessively interesting, namely, the 
 funeral of the Prince of Asturias. Although he 
 had been born dead, there he lay in the palace, 
 on a four-post bed, embalmed and enclosed in a 
 glass coffin. The guards of the palace lined the 
 apartment, and priests in magnificent costumes 
 stood near the body of the Royal infant. The child 
 was a remarkably fine one and resembled his Royal 
 mother.
 
 138 SHERRY ch. 
 
 It was with great regret that I left Madrid. 
 which to me had been quite a new world, full of 
 Oriental notions, where Arabic and Persian art 
 seems to have been the foundation of decoration. 
 In Persia, where I went subsequently, no wine is 
 manufactured for sale except at Shiraz. When 
 Persia was invaded by the Arabs, they took back 
 with them to Morocco the grapes of that district. 
 In Spain they wished to naturalise the new fruit, 
 and this they did at a place they called Xeres, 
 intended for Shiraz, there being no sound equivalent 
 to "sh" in Spanish. There they cultivated the 
 grape and made wine, which now returns to Europe 
 as " sherry," that word being a paraphrase of Shiraz. 
 Shiraz wine is very similar in taste to sherry. 
 
 I took leave of my friends one afternoon at the 
 Cafe Suizo. Amongst others was a young Spanish 
 gentleman who had been excessively amiable, and 
 who spoke English with a certain fluency, having, 
 however, only studied it from books. He said 
 he would come to England. I asked him whether 
 he intended to live at a hotel or to take lodgings. 
 He replied, " It is my intention to take apartments 
 in the most fashionable quarter of London — in 
 Holl-born." I am sorry to say I have never seen 
 him since. 
 
 At Bayonne I met Mr. William Eliot, an old 
 friend of mine. He had been appointed attache 
 to the Legation, and was about to proceed to 
 Madrid. I knew him very well in different parts 
 of the world. The last time I saw him he came
 
 x EMPRESS EUGENIE 139 
 
 to stay with me at Corfu. In 1877, by the death 
 of his father and brother, he became Lord St. 
 Germans. 
 
 I have always regretted not going to see 
 Biarritz. In those days it contained only one or 
 two small houses in a wild fishing village, and 
 was much frequented by the Countess Eugenie 
 de Montijo — subsequently Empress of the French 
 — and her mother. Before I left Madrid, she was 
 expected from Andalusia, and among her party 
 was Major Andrew Cathcart, who, besides his 
 other good qualities, was much admired in Spain 
 for his riding. From Madrid they rode on to 
 Biarritz. I met Major Cathcart at Bayonne, and 
 subsequently in Paris.
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 Exhibition of 1851 — Visit to Baden — Lord Palmerston's fall — Ac- 
 quaintances in London — Change of Government — Appointed 
 attache' at Florence — Mather Case. 
 
 I very well recollect the Exhibition of 1851. It 
 was the most beautiful thing I ever saw, both from 
 its delicacy and vastness. A large piece of Hyde 
 Park had been put under glass, including some 
 of the trees ; and the glass and galleries were 
 beautifully coloured by Mr. Owen Jones, whose 
 acquaintance I made subsequently. There were 
 naturally great crowds at the Exhibition, and 
 foreigners came in large numbers, who gave their 
 representatives a good deal of trouble. Questions 
 used to arise as to the costume which should be 
 worn on different occasions. One lady, not quite 
 knowing how to dress for a Court function, wrote 
 to her Ambassador, " Comment doit-on shabiUer ce 
 soir ? Petite exposition, ou grande exposition ? " 
 
 That year I paid another visit to Lord and 
 Lady Pollington, who were at Baden. There I 
 renewed my acquaintance with Lord Augustus 
 Loftus, who was Secretary to the Legation at 
 Stuttgart, but was then detached to Baden, where 
 he resided as charge d'affaires. I also met Mr. 
 
 140
 
 oh. xi LORD PALMERSTONS FALL 141 
 
 Douglas Irvine, who was in the Diplomatic 
 Service, from which he retired in 1862. He died 
 a few years afterwards. 
 
 At the end of 1851, Napoleon III. made his 
 coup d'etat, and the discussion between Lord 
 Palmerston and Lord Normanby is well described 
 in Mr. Evelyn Ashley's attractive Life of Lord 
 Palmerston. The removal of the latter from 
 office by Lord John Russell, his old friend, created 
 great excitement throughout the country, and 
 much sympathy was felt for him by all classes of 
 society. This was manifested in a remarkable 
 way socially. On February 9, 1852, a party 
 was given by Lady Palmerston at her house in 
 Carlton Gardens (now Mr. Balfour's). It was 
 crowded. The Times headed the account with 
 the words, "The Expelled Minister." The Duke 
 of Wellington arrived early and stayed upwards of 
 an hour. The Liberals naturally attended, and 
 the Duchess of Bedford represented the Russell 
 faction ; but there was also a strong contingent of 
 Conservatives, among others Lord Salisbury, the 
 father of the late Prime Minister, Lord Douro, 
 Lord Malmesbury, Lord and Lady Mahon, Lady 
 Lyndhurst, and Mr. and Mrs. Disraeli. Mr. Glad- 
 stone and Mr. Sidney Herbert were also present. 
 
 During this period 1 used to see a great deal 
 of Mrs. Gurwood and her daughters. She was 
 the widow of Colonel Gurwood, the friend and 
 confidant of the Duke of Wellington, whose 
 despatches he had edited. Mrs. Gurwood was
 
 142 LOLA MONTES ch. 
 
 French by birth, and had a daughter by a former 
 husband, Miss Eugenie Meyer, who afterwards 
 married Lord Esher. 
 
 My most remarkable acquaintance was Lola 
 Montes, whose adventures were then universally 
 discussed. She had had a liaison with the old 
 King of Bavaria, and had been created a Bavarian 
 Countess by the title of Countess de Lansfeldt. 
 The King's infatuation for this lady was the cause 
 of a revolution, and actually of his abdication. 
 He ordered her to leave the capital ; but she only 
 went a few miles out of Munich, and returned 
 dressed as a man. She was arrested, placed in a 
 postchaise, and sent to Switzerland. Thence she 
 came to England. 
 
 The Countess was a very handsome woman, 
 and being, I believe, English by birth, spoke the 
 language perfectly. At all events, her mother was 
 English, and she herself had married an English 
 officer, from whom she was divorced. She took a 
 house not far from my lodging in Half Moon Street, 
 where she used to receive of an evening. The 
 society was very mixed. There were several old 
 friends of hers — prominent men of the world — 
 and also some queer foreigners, evidently of a very 
 Bohemian order. She professed ultra- republican 
 opinions, and was always quoting the language of 
 a Mr. Hobbes, whom I never saw, but whose 
 name was well known in all revolutionary circles, 
 and who, I fancy, had been her adviser when in 
 Munich. The Countess's own opinions were those
 
 xi TAGLIONI 143 
 
 of Mr. Hobbes, but she had little power of express- 
 ing them, and did so in a very superficial manner. 
 She had with her a very pretty little girl, whom 
 everybody believed to be her daughter, from the 
 great likeness between them. A short time ago 
 I saw in the papers the case of a clairvoyante, 
 who was brought before the police-courts, and 
 said to be the daughter of Lola Montes ; but I 
 never had an opportunity of ascertaining whether 
 or not it was the same person. If it is the 
 little girl I used to know, she must now be about 
 sixty-five. 
 
 The cause of Lola Montes' leaving London was 
 also singular. She was very fond of dogs, and 
 had been struck by the beauty of one she had seen 
 in the Park, driving in the phaeton of Mr. Heald, 
 an officer of the Life Guards. She sent to the 
 owner a message by another officer, Captain 
 Edwin Burnaby, asking him to bring the dog 
 to see her. This he did, and within a week she 
 was married to him. His family then routed up 
 some story of her divorce not having been legal, 
 and she was therefore accused of bigamy. I do 
 not recollect the issue of the case, but not long- 
 afterwards she left England, and I fancy she never 
 returned. Indeed, I have heard that she died in 
 America. 
 
 Many years later, I made the acquaintance of 
 another celebrated dancer, who was best known 
 as Mademoiselle Taglioni. I recollect seeing her 
 in my youth in the celebrated pas de quatre, which
 
 144 APPOINTED ATTACHE ch. 
 
 consisted, I think, of herself, Cerito, Carlotta Grisi, 
 and Fanny Elssler. This latter lady was well 
 known at the time for her relations with the Due 
 de Reichstadt, the son and heir of Napoleon I., 
 who had begun life with the title of King of 
 Rome. Madame Taglioni, as she was called late 
 in life, had married Comte Gilbert des Voisins ; 
 but afterwards she fell into poorer circumstances, 
 and gave dancing - lessons to young ladies in 
 London. 
 
 In 1852, Lord John Russell's Government was 
 defeated on a motion of Lord Palmerston's, and 
 Lord Derby succeeded him, making Lord Malmes- 
 bury Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs. In 
 that year, while I was sitting at my desk in the 
 Foreign Office, a message came to me to go 
 upstairs and see Lord Malmesbury. He informed 
 me that I had been appointed attache to Sir 
 Henry Bulwer, recently named Minister at 
 Florence. 
 
 At that time the English Government was very 
 unpopular on the Continent. Rightly or wrongly, 
 Lord Palmerston had been accused of undue inter- 
 ference in the affairs of other countries, and of 
 stimulating revolutionary movements against con- 
 stituted Governments, and these were especially 
 annoyed at his having circulated, to the different 
 British Missions abroad, Mr. Gladstone's pamphlet 
 on the state of things in Naples. For these 
 reasons, all despotic Governments seemed to have 
 leagued against him. Tuscany was in the occupa-
 
 xi THE MATHER CASE 145 
 
 tion of Austrian troops, under the command of 
 Prince Friedrich Liechtenstein, a general officer 
 of great distinction. The Tuscan Government in 
 one case sheltered itself under Austrian protection, 
 but Lord Palmerston refused to admit the inter- 
 ference of Austria in Tuscan affairs, and therefore 
 on both sides there was a great deal of irritation. 
 
 Mr. Erskine Mather, an English gentleman, 
 nineteen years of age — while listening to a regi- 
 mental band, with a brother about three years 
 younger — was struck by an Austrian officer with 
 the flat side of his sword. On turning round 
 to see who had thus assaulted him, he was cut 
 down. Such was the substance of a communi- 
 cation made by Mr. Wawn, Member for South 
 Shields, to Lord Granville. Complaint was made 
 to Mr. Scarlett, charge d'affaires. Mr. Charles 
 Lever, who at that time lived at Florence, called 
 on Mr. Mather in hospital and acted towards him 
 in a very friendly manner. Lord Granville, then 
 Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, wrote 
 urgently to Mr. Scarlett, and in one of his 
 despatches the following passage occurs : — 
 
 I have to instruct you to state to the Tuscan Minister 
 that Her Majesty's Government deeply regret the necessity 
 of making repeated remonstrances to the Tuscan Govern- 
 ment on the subject of the outrages and vexations to which 
 British subjects in Tuscany are now exposed ; and you will 
 point out to his Excellency that more complaints reach Her 
 Majesty's Government of the misconduct of persons in 
 authority towards British subjects from Tuscany than from 
 all the other States in Europe. 
 
 vol.. i L
 
 146 AUSTRIAN INTERVENTION oh. 
 
 It appears that Prince Liechtenstein received 
 Mr. Scarlett's remonstrances in a most conciliatory 
 spirit, yet he justified the act of his officer. 
 
 Lord Granville authorised the employment of a 
 well-known advocate, Sign or Salvagnoli, on behalf 
 of Mr. Mather, as the Tuscan Government agreed 
 to institute an enquiry. Lord Granville also wrote 
 on the subject to Lord Westmorland, then Minister 
 at Vienna. A long time elapsed, however, without 
 any reparation being made to Mr. Mather. Mean- 
 while Marshal Radetsky, who commanded in Lom- 
 bardy, approved the institution of an official enquiry, 
 and this perpetual reference to Austrian authority 
 aggravated the irritation in England. In fact, Prince 
 Schwarzenberg, while expressing his regret, gener- 
 ally declined to enter into details such as com- 
 pensation. The matter attracted the attention of 
 Parliament, and meanwhile the British Government 
 changed. Sir Henry Bulwer, who had been in 
 America, was appointed Minister at Florence. 
 
 In his instructions to Sir Henry Bulwer, Lord 
 Malmesbury desired him to make use of "firm but 
 temperate language, carefully avoiding an irritating 
 tone, but still not disguising that there is a limit 
 beyond which forbearance on the part of Her 
 Majesty's Government cannot be pushed ; and least 
 of all admitting in the case of Tuscany that the 
 presence of an Austrian military force can justify 
 or excuse the commission in Tuscany of wrong 
 towards a British subject, or can exempt the Tuscan 
 Government from the obligation to make redress.
 
 xi BRITISH DEMANDS 147 
 
 For all acts done in Tuscany to the prejudice of 
 British subjects the British Government must hold 
 the Tuscan Government to be solely responsible." 
 
 Pending Sir Henry Bulwer's arrival, Mr. Barron, 
 a Secretary of the Legation, became charge d'affaires 
 owing to the serious illness of Mr. Scarlett. Mr. 
 Barron accepted the offer of the Tuscan Foreign 
 Office to give compensation — not of £5000, as had 
 been asked, but of 1000 francesconi (about £222) — 
 and allowed the case to be mixed up with another 
 which had nothing to do with the question. It 
 appears from Mr. Scarlett's despatches that this 
 sum was given as an act of generosity, and not as 
 admitting the responsibility of the Tuscan Govern- 
 ment. The Tuscan Foreign Office had, in fact, 
 said that it was necessary " to repeat in the name of 
 the Grand Ducal Government that the latter can 
 in no case admit its responsibility for the acts of 
 individuals who are not subject to its jurisdiction." 
 
 Sir Henry Bulwer was instructed on the 29th of 
 May to insist on the principle of Tuscan responsi- 
 bility being admitted, and he was told that, in case 
 the Tuscan Government refused to accede to his 
 demands, nothing would remain but for him to 
 make arrangements for quitting the Grand Ducal 
 Court. 
 
 Mr. Mather refused to receive any money com- 
 pensation, and the Tuscan Government finally re- 
 cognised its obligations to protect British subjects 
 " in all those cases mjwhich the ordinary tribunals 
 cannot be applied|to, including such as may arise
 
 148 SUCCESSFUL NEGOTIATIONS chxi 
 
 during the present arrangement with Austria 
 respecting the auxiliary troops of that Government 
 stationed in the Tuscan territory." 
 
 Sir Henry Bulwer thus brought to a satisfactory 
 conclusion his first negotiations with the Tuscan 
 Government. There were others of a much more 
 delicate character which he conducted to a suc- 
 cessful close, as will be related hereafter, the 
 settlement of which was due to the quality men- 
 tioned in a letter to him from the Duke of 
 Casigliano : — 
 
 Votre lettre est empreinte de ce tact exquis des conve- 
 nances qui vous caracterise.
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 
 Fl orence — Colleagues — English residents — Russian acquaintances — 
 Italian society — English friends — Florentine families 
 
 At Florence I found Sir Henry Bulwer residing at 
 the Villa Salviati, out of the Porta San Gallo, after- 
 wards the residence of Mario and Grisi, and I stayed 
 at a hotel. I left this for a lodging in the Borgo 
 SS. Apostoli, a house with enormous rooms, but 
 very gloomy, where I established the Chancery. 
 One day I heard, at a great distance in the building, 
 cries in a man's voice, "Sautez, mademoiselle, sautez! " 
 Asking the people of the house what this meant, 
 I was told that a French professor of gymnastics 
 resided there, and that he undertook to turn young 
 ladies into young gentlemen. This was all I ever 
 heard of the matter. 
 
 While at this lodging, I was afterwards told 
 that I had vised a passport which appeared in order, 
 but which belonged to Mazzini under an assumed 
 name. 
 
 On the arrival in Florence of Mr. Robert Lytton, 
 later Earl of Lytton, I left these rooms, and 
 together we took a small house in the Via Larga, 
 now, I believe, called the Via Cavour. 
 
 149
 
 150 SOCIETY IN FLORENCE ch. 
 
 My other colleague was Mr. Fenton, who had 
 been both in Spain and America with Sir Henry 
 Bulwer. He was a man of great but unostentatious 
 merit, who refused considerable promotion, and 
 continued to reside privately at the Hague, which 
 had been his last post as Secretary of Legation. 
 He has died quite recently. 
 
 There were many English and Russian ladies in 
 Florence, who formed the principal part of society. 
 Amongst the former were Lady Walpole and Lady 
 Catherine Fleming. Lady Walpole was possessed 
 of much humour as well as great learning. She 
 was very fond of animals, and maintained a kind of 
 hospital for invalid dogs. She herself possessed two 
 Mexican greyhounds which appeared to have no 
 hair. Her two daughters inherited her attractive 
 qualities. One married the Duca del Balzo, of 
 Naples, and the other Prince Palagonia, a Sicilian 
 who lived at Naples also, having a considerable 
 property there. She died young. Both Lady 
 Walpole and Lady Catherine Fleming lived habitu- 
 ally in Florence, and one, if not both, died there. 
 
 Among the principal Russians was the Countess 
 Bobrinska, a lady of great family, one of whose 
 daughters married the Marchese Pucci. She used 
 frequently to hold receptions. I also made the 
 acquaintance of two very interesting sisters — Russian 
 ladies from Odessa, named Kolontaiev. The elder 
 was a Maid of Honour to one of the Grand 
 Duchesses, and the other had great gifts as an 
 artist in pastels. They had been sent to Italy at
 
 
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 J2 
 
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 xii SCOTCH IN RUSSIAN ARMY 151 
 
 the expense of the Imperial family, to enable this 
 lady to pursue her studies. She afterwards married 
 Admiral Makouhine. Years later I met her with 
 her husband at Sevastopol, where I stayed for a 
 few hours on my way from Batoum to Odessa. 
 The other married Count de Balmain, whose uncle 
 had been Russian Commissioner at St. Helena to 
 watch over Napoleon in his exile. Strange to say, 
 this family is of Scotch origin, and their name is 
 Ramsay of Balmain. I met this lady and her 
 husband again at Florence some years afterwards. 
 Later she devoted herself to religious and charit- 
 able pilgrimages to Jerusalem. 
 
 There are many Scotch names in the Russian 
 service. I recollect meeting, at Philippopolis, 
 officers named Hamilton and Leslie. 
 
 The Italian lady at Florence who held the largest 
 receptions was the Countess Nencini. She had 
 been a great friend of Napoleon I. Her palace, the 
 Casa Nencini, had been designed by Raphael him- 
 self, and was beautifully proportioned. Amongst 
 other ladies of very prominent position was the 
 Marchesa Ricci. She was born Poniatowski, sister 
 to Prince Charles and Prince Joseph Poniatowski, 
 botli very popular members of Florentine society. 
 They were great musicians. Prince Charles sang, 
 and his brother had composed some operas. 
 Prince Joseph Poniatowski was Minister for 
 Tuscany in Paris ; but during the Empire he was 
 naturalised a Frenchman, and became a member 
 of the Senate. Madame Ricci was twice married.
 
 152 FLORENTINE BEAUTIES oh. 
 
 Her first husband was Count Bentivoglio ; they had 
 one daughter, who married Count Walewski, and 
 a son who was in French diplomacy, and much 
 assisted in his career by his relationship to his sister. 
 By Madame Ricci's second marriage she only had 
 one daughter, who married the Marchese Tolomei, 
 a member of the family of Pia de' Tolomei, men- 
 tioned by Dante. 
 
 The Marchesa Oldoini was a lady very much 
 beloved. She had been, and still was, strikingly 
 handsome. The most salient feature of her house- 
 hold was a beautiful daughter, then quite young, 
 afterwards the celebrated Countess Castiglione, one 
 of the great ladies of the Court of Napoleon III. I 
 think she was the most beautiful woman I ever saw. 
 A lady rather older, but who really rivalled the 
 Countess Castiglione, was Countess Ferrari. Hers 
 was not, however, a specimen of Italian beauty, for 
 she was the daughter of Count Moltke, who had 
 been Danish Minister at Florence. Her loveliness 
 was entirely of the northern cast, and at entertain- 
 ments and assemblies she used to look like a 
 Scandinavian dream. 
 
 There were also Count and Countess Orsini, who 
 occupied a very high place in Florentine society. 
 She was nee OrlofF. The Due de Talleyrand kept 
 a very hospitable house. He was the nephew of 
 Prince Talleyrand, and, I believe, the head of the 
 family. He had been known in early life as the 
 Due de Dino. One of his great friends, who was 
 also very hospitable, was Count Melianewsky.
 
 xii A SISTER OF MERCY 153 
 
 As a proof of the sympathetic intimacy that 
 existed in Florentine society, I will extract a short 
 passage from a letter written to me by Mr. Lytton 
 on the 18th of February, 1853, when I was away : — - 
 
 Poor Melianewsky is dead. Died yesterday. He had 
 been for some time, I believe, suffering great pain, the bone 
 of the leg splintering in various places. Mortification en- 
 sued, and he died, I hear, quite quietly, leaving a large sum 
 of money for the repose of his soul. Lady Cath [Lady 
 Catherine Fleming] sat up with him all night, which, as his 
 room, they say, was sickening from the smell of putrefaction, 
 was really the part of a swur de charite. 
 
 Among distinguished professional Italians, I knew 
 very well Salvagnoli, an advocate and lawyer of extra- 
 ordinary power. His career, though a great one, 
 was checked by his strong Liberal views. The 
 same may be said of Professor Zanetti, a remark- 
 able surgeon and physician. Though taking no 
 a,ctive part in politics, he had been identified with 
 the Liberal cause, which impeded his professional 
 advancement, owing to the prejudice of the retro- 
 grade party. He was afterwards sent for to attend 
 Garibaldi. 
 
 Two of the most engaging persons in Florence 
 were Gordigiani and his daughter. He was a 
 celebrated composer of songs called stornelE, and 
 was also of a peculiarly ready wit. His daughter, 
 who afterwards married Count Fantoni, the head 
 of an illustrious family, partook of many of her 
 father's joyous characteristics. 
 
 A gentleman whom I knew well was the 
 Marquis Gualterio. He was an author of great
 
 154 THE GLOOMY CHEVALIER ch. 
 
 merit, a moderate and constitutional Liberal, 
 who had recently written a book on the later 
 political movements in Italy, entitled Gli Ultimi 
 Rivolgimenti. His wife was a member of an old 
 Piedmontese family, and his house was frequented 
 by persons of all political colours, while he was 
 looked upon as the representative of the moderate 
 Liberals in Italy. In October 1853, after I had 
 left Florence, INI. Gualterio sent me a most interest- 
 ing memorandum, which I still possess. In this he 
 sketched out what he thought should be the ultimate 
 organisation of Italy. The document was submitted 
 to Lord Palmerston, who, I believe, paid a great 
 deal of attention to it, though he merely acknow- 
 ledged the receipt of the paper. 
 
 There were two or three especially interesting 
 figures in Florentine society at that time. One 
 was a gentleman commonly known as Piero 
 Dini, then in an advanced stage of life, but 
 universally popular. He was one of the most 
 obliging men I ever came across, and had no 
 enemies. The next was a very singular man 
 called the Chevalier d'Arlens, by birth a Swiss of 
 some property, who had been, I think, in the 
 French army, and, after having lost his fortune, 
 lived at Florence. He was a man of a most gloomy, 
 mournful appearance, which I am told he had worn 
 even at the height of his wealth and worldliness. 
 The Due de Talleyrand was a great friend of his ; 
 they pretty nearly lived together. It was very 
 much the fashion to invite the Chevalier, though
 
 xii A CONVINCING WIG 155 
 
 the world laughed at his enormous appetite. One 
 of his accomplishments was a little singing, and he 
 occasionally composed a piece of music of mournful 
 character. Once I had not seen him for a long time, 
 and asked him what he had been doing. He re- 
 plied that he had composed a song which had 
 obtained some circulation. The name, he told me 
 with a strangely cavernous intonation, was " La 
 Tombe." This was most characteristic. 
 
 There was an Italian gentleman — whose name I 
 will not mention, as it would be ill-natured to do 
 so — who was of advanced age, and whose one desire 
 was always to appear young. For this purpose he 
 had many wigs. He would tell his friends one day 
 that he intended to have his hair cut, and then put 
 on a short wig which lengthened every day until 
 the end of the month, when he again would say 
 that he must have his hair cut. Another trick of 
 his was to ask his friends to an early breakfast, and 
 receive them in his bedroom, saying that he had 
 overslept himself. This was to give authenticity to 
 the wig. 
 
 A remarkable type found in those days at 
 Florence was Mr. Kirk up. He was much sought 
 after, especially by English travellers, on account 
 of his thorough knowledge of Italian art, being 
 himself an artist. He was very shrewd, and some- 
 times cutting in his observations. Among other 
 studies lie had endeavoured to master the secret 
 of the philosopher's stone. He declared that one 
 gentleman, who had been very poor and to whom he
 
 156 FLORENTINE NOBLES ch. 
 
 explained the process, had died rich, and he was 
 convinced that this wealth had come from his 
 knowledge of the secret. I recollect an English 
 gentleman who was very intimate with Mr. Kirkup, 
 and who had separated from his wife, writing to ask 
 him, half in earnest and half in joke, to make a wax 
 figure of the lady into which he might stick pins. 
 
 Mrs. Macdonnell lived in a beautiful house called 
 the Casa Annalena. She had a large family, most 
 of whom became very distinguished. One of her 
 sons was the late Sir Hugh Macdonnell, Minister 
 at different places. Late in life she married the 
 Due de Talleyrand. One of her daughters became 
 Madame de las Marismas, a great lady of the 
 Empress Eugenie's Court. I believe another 
 married General Sir George Brown. 
 
 All the noble Florentine names still figured in 
 society — the Strozzi, Frescobaldi, Antinori, Torri- 
 giani, and Palagi. Amongst others who occasionally 
 visited Florence were the Marquis and Marquise 
 de Boissy. She had been a famous beauty when 
 Countess Guiccioli, Lord Byron's great love. 
 
 Mrs. Somerville — so well known as a mathe- 
 matician and astronomer — and her daughters lived 
 in Florence, and were much in request. There was 
 also Mr. T. Adolphus Trollope, whose daughter, 
 though very young, was a universal favourite from 
 her manners and intelligence. A very remarkable 
 Englishman, who lived in a villa in the neighbour- 
 hood, but whom I did not know, was Walter 
 Savage Landor.
 
 xii A BON MOT 157 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Browning were also living at 
 Florence, and there, I believe, their son was born. 
 To Lady Normanby was attributed the saying, 
 " Now there are not two incomprehensibles, but 
 three incomprehensibles."
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 
 Corps diplomatique at Florence — Acquaintances — English visitors^ 
 Italian society — Effects of Austrian occupation — Sir Henry 
 Bulwer's Mission to Rome — Diplomatic relations with the Papal 
 See — " Eglinton Clause " — Letter from Mr. Lytton — Murray Case 
 — Visit of British artists — Duty on English beer. 
 
 On my journey to Florence I had fallen in with 
 the Vicomte de Gabriac, who was going there as 
 charge d'affaires of France, in the absence of the 
 Minister. The Minister came shortly afterwards ; 
 1 and my family were long intimate with him and 
 his wife — the Comte and Comtesse de Mont- 
 tessuy. She was a daughter of Prince Paul of 
 Wi'irtemberg. 
 
 The German charge d'affaires was Monsieur de 
 Reumont, a well-known historian. The Minister, 
 who lived at Rome, was Baron Usedom ; his wife 
 was an English lady by birth. Miss Malcolm. Count 
 Villa Marina was Sardinian Minister ; he afterwards 
 attended the Congress of Paris as Plenipotentiary. 
 The Spanish Minister, who only came rarely to 
 Florence, was Monsieur Curtois, one of whose 
 secretaries, Monsieur Conti, married a daughter 
 of Mrs. Macdonnell. Count Riario-Sforza was the 
 
 158
 
 ch.xiii OFFICIAL FLORENCE 159 
 
 Neapolitan Minister ; during his absence the Duke 
 of Santo Paolo was in charge. 
 
 One of the most prominent diplomatists at 
 Florence was Baron Hiigel, the Austrian repre- 
 sentative. His wife was a beautiful English lady, 
 whose maiden name had been Farquharson. The 
 Baron's position was very powerful, owing to the 
 connection of the Grand Duke with the Austrian 
 Imperial family, and still more so on account of 
 the Austrian occupation. He had been, I believe, 
 Secretary to Prince Metternich, and had travelled 
 extensively in the East. 
 
 Near Florence, at the Villa San Donato, lived 
 Prince Demidoff, a well-known Russian magnate, 
 the husband of Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, 
 daughter of King Jerome, and sister of Prince 
 Napoleon, known otherwise as Plon-Plon. His 
 house was filled with every kind of object of art, 
 especially furniture ; he had tables, chimney-pieces, 
 and even steps made of slabs of malachite. 
 
 The principal Florentine officially was Signor 
 Baldasseroni, the Prime Minister. He went but 
 little into society. Next to him came the Duke 
 of Casigliano, Minister for Foreign Affairs. He 
 was the elder son of Prince Corsini, to whose title 
 he ultimately succeeded, and a man of peculiar 
 appearance, as he dressed oddly. In the evening he 
 wore a light blue coat, called a Chamberlain's coat, 
 covered with gilt buttons and with Grand Crosses 
 so numerous that the ribbons had to be crossed on 
 his breast. His brother, the Marchese de Lajaticho,
 
 160 A LUCKY INVESTMENT oil 
 
 also occupied a leading place in society, and they 
 had a younger brother. 
 
 The Great Chamberlain was, if I recollect 
 aright, the Marchese Ginori, who was also pro- 
 fusely decorated. I do not know whether or not 
 he was actually the owner of the celebrated Ginori 
 porcelain works ; but his family, which was a very 
 great one, had by some circumstances, of which I 
 am ignorant, become the proprietors of that factory,, 
 which restored to them a portion of the fortune they 
 had lost. 
 
 Amongst other Italians whom I knew were 
 Prince and Princess Pio di Savoia, and their 
 daughter, Marchesa Fransoni. Madame Fransoni 
 was a most remarkable pianist, and people came 
 from all quarters to hear her. Her husband was a 
 nephew of Cardinal Fransoni. He was a man of 
 much literary taste, and had written a very re- 
 markable essay, comparing what he called the 
 alphabets of music and of words. Like his father-in- 
 law, he kept a most hospitable house in Florence. 
 Another daughter of Prince and Princess Pio 
 married Marchese Pitti, whose ancestor, the great 
 architect, built the Palazzo Pitti. 
 
 I was also acquainted with Mr. and Mrs. Sloane,. 
 who had been formerly employed, one as tutor and 
 the other as governess, by the family of Monsieur 
 and Madame Boutourline, Russians of great mark. 
 Having saved a little money, they married and 
 bought some copper mines in a place called La 
 Cava, which brought them enormous wealth.
 
 xiii CHARLES LEVER 161 
 
 They purchased Careggi, the well-known villa, 
 where Lorenzo de' Medici was exhorted on his 
 deathbed by Savonarola. The house contained a 
 fine picture of the incident, painted by Watts. 
 Mr. and Mrs. Sloane were fervent Roman Catholics. 
 Both, I believe, were naturalised Tuscans, and 
 there was some talk, at one time, of appointing 
 him Tuscan Minister. Out of gratitude for the 
 past, they left all their property to the family of 
 Boutourline. 
 
 Mr. Charles Lever and his family lived at 
 Florence at that time. He was a man of great 
 wit, but was, at the same time, endowed with 
 much deeper knowledge and feeling than would 
 be gathered from his works. 
 
 An English lady, well known in Florentine 
 society, astounded her friends by marrying the 
 doctor of the police. On this subject, I recollect 
 Lever saying, " Mrs. has made a most illus- 
 trious match. She has married the last of the 
 Medici." 
 
 Amongst other residents at Florence — though 
 I did not know him well personally — was Mr. 
 Leader. He had been a foremost member of what 
 were called the Philosophical Radicals, of which Sir 
 William Molesworth was a leader, and Member, if 
 I am not wrong, for Westminster. I have since 
 then seen some letters of his relating stories of 
 mistakes made in a foreign language. He told 
 one of Sismondi, when travelling in England. 
 It is here perhaps better to say that trunks 
 
 VOL. I M
 
 162 BRITISH TRAVELLERS ch. 
 
 in Italian are called bauli, pronounced in three 
 syllables. Sismondi, staying with friends in Devon- 
 shire, was heard to call out, " Will you bring up 
 my luggage and my small bowels ? " Mr. Leader 
 was the author of a very interesting account of the 
 old Venetian nobility. 
 
 Of course a great number of British travellers 
 passed through Florence, amongst them Sir Henry 
 Ponsonby, Private Secretary to Queen Victoria, 
 whom I had known from the time we were 
 children. A good many young Englishmen were 
 travelling with their tutors. One was Sir Courtenay 
 Honywood ; then came Lord Andover, and Mr. 
 Amyas Poulett, whose mother and brother I had 
 known for a long time. Lord Ebury, then Mr. 
 Grosvenor, also arrived with his tutor ; he is the 
 only survivor of these, all of whom I met subse- 
 quently at Naples. 
 
 Florence was very full, not only of strangers, 
 but of Italians who came from other parts of 
 Italy, and who contributed to the gaiety of the 
 place. It was cheaper than other Italian capitals, 
 and the society was most amusing on account of 
 the large number of foreigners who lived there. 
 About that time, however, its pleasures had been 
 much diminished by the presence of the Austrian 
 troops. All the Italian society was divided into 
 two sections — one, the smallest, which approved of 
 the appeal to Austria and represented the party 
 known as the Codini (pig- tails) or retrogrades ; 
 and the other, exactly the reverse. Some of the
 
 xiii FRICTION WITH AUSTRIA 163 
 
 latter were very strong Liberals, but all of them 
 had Liberal tendencies and resented the occupa- 
 tion. The result was constant friction. Italian 
 ladies would not dance with Austrian officers, and 
 quarrels were frequent. 
 
 Before this time society at Florence had been 
 as one large family. On fine nights in summer, 
 every one used to turn out on the Lung' Arno, 
 young men taking with them their guitars. Small 
 aances were suddenly organised, and the Grand 
 Duke and Duchess walked calmly up and down, 
 receiving the salutations of their subjects. All 
 this, however, had changed before my time, and it 
 was difficult to have a predilection for one person 
 more than another, for fear of being compromised 
 politically. Anything like a political discussion 
 was unknown. 
 
 As has been said before, the Commander-in- 
 Chief of the Austrian army of occupation was 
 Prince Friedrich Liechtenstein, a member of the 
 royal family of that principality, and a very high- 
 minded man, who endeavoured, as far as possible, 
 to diminish the friction between his army and the 
 Tuscan people. 
 
 At that time Guerrazzi was in prison, and his 
 trial went on during my stay, which was somewhat 
 broken by occasional absences. For two months, 
 however, I was left in sole charge of the Legation, 
 as Sir Henry Bulwer had been sent to Rome on 
 two very delicate questions. The principal one 
 was that of the resumption of diplomatic relations
 
 164 THE EGLINTON CLAUSE ch. 
 
 with the Papal See. This had been previously 
 discussed between Lord Minto and the Papal 
 authorities, and some hopes were entertained of 
 making it feasible to maintain regular diplomatic 
 relations with Rome. This was especially desired 
 at that moment, as a complete change was looked 
 for in the whole aspect of Italy, owing to the 
 supposed Liberal tendencies of Pius IX., who had 
 just succeeded to the Papacy. A Bill had been 
 introduced into Parliament to legitimise these 
 relations, and it was passed ; but a strong feeling 
 existed against the presence of a Roman ecclesiastic 
 as Papal Nuncio in England, and Lord Eglinton 
 had introduced into the Bill a clause prohibiting 
 any such appointment. On this account, the Pope 
 refused to send any Minister, and also declined to 
 receive an envoy from England on a unilateral 
 footing. This may be gathered from Mr. Evelyn 
 Ashley's Life of Lord Palmer ston, in which the 
 following passage occurs : — 
 
 The truth was that representations made to the Pope 
 from Ireland induced him to imagine that we were in such 
 a state in Ireland that we should be compelled to yield. 
 When Lord Minto asked whether he would on his part 
 receive as an English Minister one of our Archbishops, or 
 the Moderator of the Church of Scotland, in full canonicals, 
 he frankly owned that he would not. 
 
 Lord Palmerston was in favour of the Eglinton 
 clause, thinking that great embarrassments and 
 inconveniences would arise from a Roman priest, 
 invested with diplomatic privileges, holding his
 
 xni NEGOTIATIONS WITH ROME 165 
 
 court in London, surrounded by English and Irish 
 Catholics ; but this clause proved fatal to the 
 success of the measure. 
 
 Up to that time, our business with the Papal 
 Government had been carried on in an informal 
 manner, a member of the Florence Legation, re- 
 siding at Rome, having been received unofficially 
 by the statesmen of the Pope. This was Mr. 
 Petre, a Roman Catholic. 
 
 In October 1852 I received a letter from Mr. 
 Lytton, who was then at Rome with his uncle, in 
 which he said : — 
 
 I hear Florence is filling. Rome still very dull. Nobody 
 here, and the ruins quite a take-in. I spend the greater 
 part of my time in the studios, and am making a head of 
 Antinous which is to adorn our Florentine mansion. 
 
 I think it still very uncertain how much longer we may 
 remain here, but I hope to get away by the end of the 
 month. They are difficult people to deal with, and the 
 Government here is just like the household of the Great 
 Lama. One never sets to the Great Lama himself— such 
 an atmosphere of mystification — the difficulty of all negotia- 
 tion being further increased by the fact that both Petre and 
 
 O , T the only ostensible mediums of communication 
 
 with the Pontifical Government, are both Roman Catholics, 
 if not, as I suspect, Jesuits. Petre is an extraordinarily 
 well-read fellow, with a scholar-like and cultivated mind, 
 stored with a good deal of solid learning, and improves 
 on acquaintance. He is more than middle-aged and greyish. 
 
 O is a younger man, good-looking and clever ; as full 
 
 of intrigue as an egg is of meat, and well versed in the 
 smaller arts of antechamber diplomacy. He has been in 
 Greece and the East, and it was he who got up the Greek 
 
 1 A gentleman privately employed by Sir Henry Bulwer.
 
 166 MURRAY CASE ch. 
 
 Question against Palmerston, having been very much lie 
 with the Greek king, whom he calls " Otho." He is bold, 
 ambitious, and active, full of plans and schemes — many 
 of them wild, all of them clever. If you have ever read 
 Devereiioc, and remember the Jesuit in that novel, you will 
 be able to picture him when I say he is the type of that 
 cleric. He professes a great fancy for me, and has told the 
 Pope that I am on the eve of conversion ! 
 
 Two other questions also occupied Sir Henry 
 Buhver's time — one was that of the Madiai, with 
 which I shall deal later on, and the other the case 
 of Mr. Murray, of which the following account 
 was transcribed in the Times from the Roman 
 Journal : — 
 
 "Edward Murray, born at Cephalonia, was 
 brought by his father to Italy, and, after being 
 engaged for some time in banking operations at 
 Rome, he removed to Ancona where he resided ten 
 years, and married Ursula Gabrieli, a native of 
 Loretto. 
 
 "During the catastrophes of 1848 and 1849, he 
 was appointed Inspector of Police at Ancona. 
 The state of the population at that period is well 
 known. According to the correspondence of Mr. 
 Moore, the English Consul, with Sir George 
 Hamilton (our Minister at Florence) — 
 
 "The greatest disorder prevails in the town, where an 
 infuriated rabble publicly stab, killing right and left all 
 those who chance to read the newspapers. These murders 
 were perpetrated at the rate of three per day. Many of the 
 assassins were well known ; but nobody dared to arrest 
 them, the police and national guards refusing to act.
 
 xiii SETTLEMENT 167 
 
 " In a letter to Lord Palmerston, dated April 
 22, 1849, Sir George Hamilton calculated at 
 from six to eight the daily number of victims, 
 which on the previous Sunday amounted to 
 ten. 
 
 " A few days afterwards, an English ship of war 
 having arrived to protect the English Consul, who 
 appeared to be menaced, the Governor caused 
 several of the murderers to be arrested on the 
 night of the 27th of April. Amongst them was 
 Murray. 
 
 " To-day these facts are overlooked. Pity is 
 expressed, not for the victims of terror, but for 
 Murray who abetted it. His case has been brought 
 before one of the Parliaments of Europe, and, 
 accepting as true the assertion of a public news- 
 paper, it was alleged that pontifical tribunals were 
 slow and accessible to corruption." 
 
 This case was subsequently satisfactorily settled. 
 
 I recollect meeting some of Murray's relatives 
 later in the Ionian Islands, but I forget the nature 
 of their business with me. 
 
 About this time, Sir Digby Wyatt and Mr. 
 Owen Jones arrived at Florence on some artistic 
 mission connected with the Exhibition of 1851. 
 They were well received by the Tuscan authorities. 
 
 Meanwhile my own labours were very limited. 
 I had a little discussion with the Tuscan Govern- 
 ment concerning the duty on English beer, on 
 which I received a note from Sir Henry Bulwer at 
 Rome : —
 
 168 BRITISH BEER ch.xiii 
 
 I have looked into the great Beer case, and enclose you 
 a note which you can address to the Duke of Casigliano in 
 my name. The note will be, in the first instance, semi- 
 official. 
 
 Sir Henry Bulwer was, as ever, very busy, 
 not only about the points he had to treat, but 
 in obtaining valuable information from various 
 sources.
 
 CHAPTER XIV 
 
 Madiai Case— Captain Walker— Sentence on the Madiai— Deputation- 
 Protests against their sentence — Lord John Russell's despatch 
 — Release of the Madiai — Mr. and Mrs. Edmund Phipps — Sir 
 James Hudson — Lord Normanhy Minister at Florence — Mr. 
 Scarlett. 
 
 The third case with which Sir Henrv Bulwer had 
 to deal was that of the Madiai. 
 
 On the 17th of August 1851, an English gentle- 
 man named Walker was arrested. I knew him 
 well. He had retired from the Army. His family 
 had lived a great deal in Italy, two of his sisters 
 having married Italians, Count Baldelli and Mar- 
 quis Incontri. Another sister married Captain 
 Fleetwood Wilson, and was the mother of Sir 
 Guy Fleetwood Wilson, now Under-Secretary at 
 the War Office. I still recollect so well seeing 
 Mrs. Fleetwood Wilson, a lady of great attractions, 
 walking down the hill out of Florence, with her 
 two children in baskets on a pony. She has only 
 quite recently died in London. 
 
 Captain Walker was a man of strongly pro- 
 nounced religious tendencies, who occupied himself 
 a great deal with the Protestant movement. He 
 was arrested while visiting the Madiai, a man and 
 
 169
 
 170 THE MADIAI ch. 
 
 his wife who had been courier and maid in English 
 families. An Italian Bible and other books were 
 afterwards removed by the police from the table 
 where the party had been sitting, and a small Bible, 
 which Captain Walker always carried with him, 
 was taken from his pocket. The Madiai were also 
 arrested. 
 
 The police accused Captain Walker of reading 
 and expounding the Protestant version of the Bible 
 to Tuscan Roman Catholics, and of attempting to 
 proselytise. In spite of his assertion that he was 
 an Englishman, and innocent, he was hurried off to 
 prison. Captain Fleetwood Wilson addressed him- 
 self at once to the police authorities, who, however, 
 refused at first to allow him to see Captain Walker ; 
 but through the intervention of Mr. Bligh, the 
 attach^, who had been instructed to intervene in 
 the matter by Mr. Scarlett — then at Pisa— Captain 
 Walker was liberated, though not till he had been 
 kept for twenty-one hours in the cell of a common 
 prison. 
 
 The two Madiai were convicted under a law of 
 1786 on the grounds of proselytism. The husband 
 was condemned to fifty-six months' reclusion in the 
 House of Forced Labour at Volterra, and the wife 
 to forty-six months' imprisonment in the Ergastolo. 
 An appeal was, however, made to the Courts of 
 Tuscany. 
 
 This case excited a great deal of interest. 
 During the period when I was alone in Florence, 
 a deputation arrived, consisting of Lord Roden,
 
 xiv FOREIGN PROTESTS 171 
 
 Lord Cavan and Captain Trotter, accompanied by 
 some leading Swiss Protestants and delegates from 
 France, Holland, Wurtemberg and Prussia. On 
 the 27th of October, Lord Malmesbury instructed 
 Sir Henry Bulwer to repair to Florence — all fear 
 of capital punishment being executed on Murray 
 having been removed — in order to give this deputa- 
 tion, unofficially, every assistance, and to use all 
 the means in his power to procure for them an 
 audience of the Grand Duke. This was, however, 
 refused. 
 
 At the time of Sir Henry Bulwers arrival, the 
 Prussian Minister at Rome, Baron Usedom, also 
 accredited to Florence, came there, not avowedly 
 but in reality, to do what could be done in the 
 case of the Madiai. The Baron did not, how- 
 ever, mention the subject in his interview with the 
 Grand Duke, but wrote a letter to the Duke of 
 Casigliano stating the great interest his Sovereign 
 and nation took in the affair. Count Arnim, Grand 
 Seneschal at the Court of Prussia, brought an auto- 
 graph communication from his Sovereign to the 
 Grand Duke, pleading in favour of the unfortunate 
 persons in confinement ; but both the answer of 
 the Duke of Casigliano to Baron Usedom, and that 
 of the Grand Duke to Count Arnim, expressed the 
 same sentiment — namely, that the Tuscan Sovereign 
 requested to be left at liberty to act in a case 
 relative to his own subjects, under the laws of his 
 own nation, according to his own free will and 
 conscience.
 
 172 GRAND DUKES SAYING ch. 
 
 On the 12th of November 1851, a letter on the 
 subject had been addressed to Lord Palmerston 
 by General Sir Henry dimming, the two Madiai 
 having been in the service of his family for a 
 long time. Rosa Madiai had been with them for 
 seventeen years, and had been very attentive to 
 his son - in - law, who was attache at Florence, 
 during his last illness ; she had also been in the 
 service of Lady Caroline Townley, and many 
 others. Lord Palmerston took up the case very 
 warmly, and addressed a despatch on the subject 
 to Mr. Scarlett on the 17th of November 1851, 
 only a few days before his leaving office. Several 
 English Corporations addressed petitions to the 
 Grand Duke ; but these the Duke of Casigliano 
 refused to receive, and both he and M. Baldas- 
 seroni informed Sir Henry Bulwer that further 
 demonstrations in favour of the Madiai would 
 only frustrate their own endeavours. About that 
 time the Grand Duchess had a child, and many 
 prisoners received the royal clemency, but this 
 was not extended to the Madiai. 
 
 In the midst of all these disputes, the following 
 story was told of the Grand Duke of Tuscany. 
 When he was driving through the streets of Lucca, 
 a tradesman threw something out of the window 
 into the Grand Duke's carriage. In a great fright, 
 he ran down to implore for pardon. His Highness 
 replied : " Never mind. It is lucky that it was not 
 an Englishman ; otherwise, by this time, I should 
 have had all the British Legation on my back."
 
 xiv AN EMPHATIC DESPATCH 173 
 
 In January 1853, Lord John Russell acceded 
 to power. A report was circulated that Francesco 
 Madiai had died, in consequence of the hardships 
 he had undergone, and the Times published two 
 indignant leading articles on the subject. The 
 statement proved to be incorrect, though it was 
 true that the unfortunate man had suffered severely 
 both in mind and body. On the 18th of the same 
 month, Lord John Russell sent Sir Henry Bulwer 
 an emphatic despatch on the subject, a part of 
 which I quote : — 
 
 According to the last accounts received from you, the 
 Grand Duke of Tuscany still hesitates on the subject of the 
 Madiai. But this is a matter on which hesitation implies 
 capital punishment. It is the same thing, in effect, to con- 
 demn a man to trial by fire, like Savonarola, or to put him 
 to death by the slow torture of an unhealthy prison. It 
 seems to be imagined, indeed, by some Governments on the 
 Continent, that, if they avoid the spectacle of an execution 
 on the scaffold, they will escape the odium to themselves, 
 and the sympathy for their victims, which attends upon the 
 punishment of death for offences of a political or religious 
 character. But this is an error. It is now well understood 
 that the wasting of the body, the sinking of the spirits, the 
 weakening of the mind, are but additions to the capital 
 punishment which long and close confinement too often 
 involves. 
 
 If therefore, as has been lately reported, one of the 
 Madiai were to die in prison, the Grand Duke must expect 
 that throughout Europe he will be considered as having put 
 a human being to death for being a Protestant. 
 
 It will be said, no doubt, that the offence of Francesco 
 .Madiai was not that of being a Protestant, but that of 
 endeavouring to seduce others from the Roman Catholic 
 faith ; that the Tuscan Government had the most merciful 
 intentions . . . that such offences cannot be permitted to
 
 174 MADIAI CASE CONCLUDED ch. 
 
 pass unpunished. But this . . . will avail very little. 
 Throughout the civilised world, the example of religious 
 persecution will excite abhorrence. . . . 
 
 You are therefore instructed to speak in the most serious 
 tone to the Minister of Foreign Affairs, and to lay before 
 him all the considerations stated in this despatch. You will 
 do it in the most friendly tone, and take care to assure the 
 Government to which you are accredited, that none are more 
 sincere in their wishes for the independence and happiness 
 of Tuscany than the Queen of Great Britain. . . . 
 
 Sir Henry Bulwer, therefore, once more pressed 
 the question, and in so skilful a manner that M. 
 Baldasseroni thought it advisable to submit the 
 matter again to the Grand Duke. At the moment, 
 however, Sir Henry Bulwer was forced to leave 
 Florence on account of his health, and Mr. Erskine, 
 Secretary of Legation at Turin, was named charge' 
 d'affaires. On the 16th of March the Madiai 
 were hurried, with the greatest secrecy, on board 
 a vessel at Leghorn, and at Marseilles they were 
 set free, on condition of their never returning to 
 Tuscany. 
 
 During the rather hard work entailed by the 
 Madiai case, Charles Lever frequently called. 
 On one occasion he was left in the waiting- 
 room for some time, and occupied himself in 
 writing a parody on Hood's " Song of the Shirt." 
 It ran like this : — 
 
 Scratch, scratch, scratch, 
 Scratch for ever and aye, 
 I shall never be done with this d — d despatch 
 In the case of the Madiai.
 
 xiv CAVOUR AND HUDSON 175 
 
 To think that bread should be so dear 
 And flesh and blood so cheap, 
 
 was altered by Lever as follows : — 
 
 To think that pen and ink 's so cheap 
 And brandy and water so dear ! 
 
 Among the many people who took a great 
 interest in the Madiai case were Mr. and Mrs. 
 Edmund Phipps. He was the brother of Lord 
 Normanby, and a man of very devout views. He 
 came with his wife to spend some little time in 
 Florence, bringing their son, Constantine, who 
 since then has occupied several important posts in 
 the Diplomatic Service, and has now retired. 
 
 At Florence I also made the acquaintance of 
 Sir James Hudson, our very distinguished Minister 
 at Turin — a man lovable in every way, of great 
 charm of manner and good -nature. He was a 
 strong Liberal, and to him Italy was largely in- 
 debted for her ultimate liberation. 
 
 I was told by the late Sir James Lacaita that 
 Sir James Hudson lived on the most intimate terms 
 with Count Cavour, and, in the Italian manner, 
 called him by his Christian name. On one occasion, 
 though unfortunately I cannot remember which, 
 Cavour was hesitating as to the course he should 
 pursue, and Sir James Hudson said to him, 
 " Dunque hai paura, Camillo 1 " This decided the 
 forward course adopted by Cavour, which ended in 
 remarkable success. 
 
 After leaving Florence officially, I frequently
 
 17f> LORD NORMANBY ch. 
 
 went to Italy to visit some relatives, and therefore 
 felt familiar with the whole country. When 
 passing Turin, I constantly saw Sir James Hudson, 
 with whom later on I had considerable corre- 
 spondence while I resided at Corfu. In fact, the 
 annexation of the Ionian Islands to Greece was 
 closely connected with the liberation of Italy. 
 
 My constant private visits to Florence have very 
 much mixed up my personal chronology as to that 
 country. 
 
 Subsequent to the time when Mr. Erskine was 
 temporarily in charge, Mr. Scarlett returned ; but 
 after some time Lord Normanby, who had been 
 Ambassador at Paris, was appointed Minister. 
 Lord Normanby had resided a great deal at 
 Florence during his youth. A villa which he 
 had formerly occupied was known as the Villa 
 Normanby, or, as it was sometimes called by the 
 peasants, " Lorbambi," and he looked forward with 
 great pleasure to revisiting the favourite resort of 
 his younger days. He and Lady Normanby were 
 much liked in Florentine society ; but, after his 
 differences with Lord Palmerston, he seemed rather 
 to veer from his early Liberalism, and gave strong 
 support to the Grand Ducal policy. 
 
 A Club had been formed at Florence, of 
 which I was an original member, and Lord 
 Normanby, on his arrival, was made President. 
 A young gentleman of a family with whom 
 Lord Normanby was friendly came to Florence, 
 and passed a great deal of time at the Club,
 
 xiv 'ROBBED AT THE CLUB' 177 
 
 where he lost money at cards. Lord Normanby, 
 out of good -nature towards him, and out of 
 friendliness to his family, wrote a letter to the 
 relatives advising them to induce the young man 
 to leave the place, " as he was always being robbed 
 at the Club." This letter was forwarded to the 
 young gentleman, and was fastened by him to the 
 fireplace for every one to read. The incident, 
 to a certain extent, detracted from Lord Nor- 
 manby's popularity. He remained at Florence 
 from December 1854 until March 1858, when he 
 was recalled, on the accession of Lord Derby to 
 power. I believe it was considered impossible, 
 considering the active part he had taken in English 
 Liberal politics, for him to remain in an inferior 
 capacity under a party to which he had long been 
 hostile. 
 
 Mr. Scarlett, who for a long time had been in 
 Tuscany as Secretary of Legation, frequently act- 
 ing as charge d'affaires, was appointed Minister to 
 Brazil, and later came back to Florence in that 
 capacity. 
 
 VOL. I n
 
 CHAPTER XV 
 
 Sir Henry Bulwer — Commission to investigate Danubian Principalities 
 —Visit to Sir Henry Bulwer at Constantinople — His maxims — 
 Mr. Kobert Lytton — Lord Lytton in India — Marriage — Visits to 
 Carrara and Florence. 
 
 It may be as well for me to say a few words 
 concerning Sir Henry Bulwer. He was a very kind 
 man, full of douceur — an expression of which he 
 was fond. He had a curious mania for having 
 more than one place of residence in the same town, 
 and also for appointing private secretaries. These 
 gentlemen he frequently employed instead of his 
 regular official subordinates, which often gave rise 
 to annoyance. He told me that he really did so 
 from good-nature, not liking to trouble his official 
 secretaries with work, which with him was con- 
 stant. One reason for this was his untidiness about 
 papers, which were always being lost, and his con- 
 stant corrections and re-corrections of his manu- 
 script despatches. Odd stories were told of him. 
 
 It was said that once, when he had engaged a 
 new secretary, he introduced him privately to some 
 friends, saying to them that he was a most accom- 
 plished man and very able, but adding confidentially 
 that it was desirable, when he came to the house, 
 
 178
 
 chxv SIR HENRY BULWER 179 
 
 not to leave any small change lying about. I do 
 not believe in the truth of this story, but it used 
 to be cited as an instance of Sir Henry Bulwers 
 eccentricity. There is no doubt that he was a most 
 remarkable man, very popular with his friends, and 
 unpopular only with people who made no allowance 
 for eccentricity. There was a party for and a 
 party against him everywhere. He passed a most 
 brilliant career, and was much in the confidence of 
 Lord Palmerston, by whom he had been sent to his 
 first important post — that of Minister to the Queen 
 of Spain. Before that he had been to Berlin, 
 Vienna, the Hague, Paris and Brussels, and he was 
 Secretary of Embassy at one time at the Porte. 
 While there, owing to some difference of opinion 
 with the Ambassador, it was said that he refused to 
 reside at the Embassy, and lived in a tent which 
 he pitched in the neighbourhood. In America he 
 was most successful, and concluded the well-known 
 Clayton-Bulwer Treaty. It was currently reported 
 that he signed that Treaty with the American 
 plenipotentiary, smoking a cigar and over a glass 
 of punch. Florence was too small a place for 
 his active abilities. Consequently in 1855 he was 
 pensioned. He did not long remain unemployed, 
 but in 1856 was appointed Commissioner under 
 the 23rd Article of the Treaty of Paris to investi- 
 gate the state of the Principalities, and to propose 
 a basis for their organisation. 
 
 When Sir Henry Bulwer was at Bucarest, an 
 extraordinary political event occurred with regard
 
 180 EUROPE CHECKMATED oh. 
 
 to Moldavia and Wallachia. The object of the 
 Commission was to create two separate States, 
 for each of which a constitution was laid down. 
 Although the people of the two Principalities 
 wished very much to be united, the tendency of 
 the Congress of Paris had been to keep them apart. 
 It had also been decided that the people were to 
 elect their own Prince. In doing so, they frustrated 
 the views of all Europe, as by some private and 
 secret understanding both principalities elected the 
 same candidate, Colonel Couza, henceforward called 
 Prince Couza. The two Principalities together 
 now take the name of the kingdom of Roumania. 
 
 The instructions given to Sir Henry Bulwer as 
 Commissioner by Lord Clarendon are interesting, 
 showing, as they do, the divergences existing 
 between the different Powers that signed the 
 Treaty of Paris. Austria and the Porte were 
 vehemently opposed to the union of the Provinces, 
 which France, on the other hand, as strongly 
 supported ; while Russia was known to be favour- 
 able, and expressed a desire to defer to the wishes 
 of the inhabitants. 
 
 It had been a matter of discussion whether 
 Prussia and Sardinia should be represented on this 
 Commission. The interests of those Powers in the 
 questions to be discussed were remote, and Lord 
 Palmerston's Cabinet considered that advantage 
 would have resulted from their not taking part, 
 as the chances of a divergence of opinion would 
 have proportionately diminished ; but the Prussian
 
 
 
 O 
 
 '5 
 
 
 02
 
 xv AN EASY BERTH 181 
 
 Government expressed an earnest desire to be 
 represented, and the Sardinian Government did 
 the same. 
 
 In 1858, Sir Henry Bulwer was appointed 
 Ambassador at Constantinople. There I paid 
 him a visit in 1864, when 1 was introduced to 
 Prince Couza, who had come to pay his respects 
 to the Sultan, and was then living in a palace 
 lent to him at the Sweet Waters of Asia. This 
 is rather anticipating matters, but I claim the right 
 of anachronism. 
 
 Most of the stories about Sir Henry Bulwer 
 were, no doubt, invented, but I myself, when at 
 Constantinople, was witness to one remarkable 
 choice of a secretary. I found with the Ambassa- 
 dor an old Irishman, considerably over seventy, 
 whom he had known in Paris in opulent circum- 
 stances. When this poor man was ruined, Sir 
 Henry Bulwer, as a last resort, offered to make 
 him his secretary, and he came to Constantinople, 
 where he was very much out of water. He con- 
 sulted me what should be done. " You know," he 
 said, " that Sir Henry Bulwer is kind enough to 
 make me his secretary. I have been here for some 
 time, but I do not recollect that he has ever 
 employed me. Oh yes," he added, " he did once. 
 He asked me to direct some anvelqpes." 
 
 Another incident illustrative of Sir Henry 
 Bulwer's peculiarities was his purchase of an island 
 called Plati, in the Sea of Marmora. He thought 
 it might be developed into an enormous market-
 
 182 ECCENTRICITIES ch. 
 
 garden, and here he also intended to breed those 
 large white donkeys, which are especially used, I 
 think, by Armenians. Some are of great height, 
 standing as high as ponies, and costing often two 
 hundred pounds. This part of his project did not 
 succeed, as one day a special boat was sent to tell 
 him that the donkeys had created the most terrible 
 ravages, pulling down the fences and destroying the 
 shrubs. I believe that he subsequently sold the 
 island to the Khedive. 
 
 I merely mention these peculiarities to prove the 
 utter hollowness of the bitter opposition shown to 
 him by some inferior minds. Sir Henry Bulwer, 
 in addition to his great abilities, was a man of the 
 most obliging nature and affectionate disposition, 
 and wished to do well for every one. I have found 
 as regards other distinguished diplomatists that 
 there has always been a clique to run them down. 
 Such was the case with Lord Stratford and Sir 
 James Hudson, as well as Sir Henry Bulwer. I 
 do not believe anything more serious than such 
 eccentricities as I have mentioned could be alleged 
 against him, but I well recollect the bitterness 
 with which he was assailed. 
 
 When Sir Henry Bulwer was first appointed 
 Ambassador at Constantinople, it was decided that 
 Lord Stratford, who had so long been Ambassador 
 there, should return on a special mission to deliver 
 his letters of recall. Though outwardly on good 
 terms, it was generally known that great irritation 
 existed between them.
 
 xv A DIPLOMATIC SERMON 183 
 
 One Sunday the two Ambassadors went to 
 church, and sat in the same pew. The chaplain — 
 not a man of remarkable tact — thought he would 
 reconcile them from the pulpit, and took for his 
 text 2 Cor. v. 10, " We are ambassadors . . ." 
 and proceeded as follows : — 
 
 There are heavenly ambassadors and earthly ambassa- 
 dors, and the earthly ambassadors are divided into classes. 
 There are ambassadors ordinary and ambassadors extra- 
 ordinary. There are ministers and there are charges 
 d'affaires. If any of you who are now listening to me belong 
 to those categories, let me recommend you earnestly, as a 
 heavenly ambassador, to live at peace one with the other. 
 
 No doubt the clergyman's recommendations were 
 fully appreciated by the two earthly Ambassadors. 
 
 This reminds me of a story of a former Am- 
 bassador at Constantinople, Lord Ponsonby. He 
 was once sent to some distant post on board a ship 
 commanded by a naval officer called Phillimore. 
 On one occasion they entered on some discussion, 
 in which Lord Ponsonby obtained rather the best 
 of the argument. Captain Phillimore thereupon 
 put the Ambassador under arrest. 
 
 This Captain Phillimore was well known for 
 the extraordinary nature of his correspondence. 
 In his time it was the custom for Lords of 
 the Admiralty, when writing despatches to 
 commanders of ships at vast distances, to sign 
 themselves " Your affectionate friends." It was 
 considered a kindness to show friendliness towards 
 them, and to show they were not forgotten. When
 
 184 ' YOUR AFFECTIONATE FRIEND' ch. 
 
 Captain Phillimore obtained command of a ship, 
 lie answered a despatch from the Lords of the 
 Admiralty, signing himself "Your affectionate 
 friend." The Admiralty did not quite appreciate 
 this, and sent a despatch saying that, though the 
 Lords of the Admiralty wrote in this manner to a 
 captain at a distance from home, it was not con- 
 sidered necessary for the captain to answer with the 
 same formula. To this Captain Phillimore replied : 
 
 I have received your Lordships 1 despatch, and can 
 assure you that I will never again sign myself — Your 
 affectionate friend, Phillimore. 
 
 Sir Henry Bulwer's conversation was not only 
 agreeable but very instructive. He was continually 
 quoting aphorisms, and once gave me a collection 
 of maxims, written by himself, which I published 
 some years ago as an article in the Nineteenth 
 Century. Lamenting his age, he used to say it 
 reminded him of the Due de Richelieu, who, on 
 being told by a lady that he was not really old, 
 replied, " I know that I am old, for there is one 
 certain sign of it. When I was young, if I paid a 
 compliment to a lady, she took it for a declaration. 
 Now, if I make a declaration, she takes it for a 
 compliment." 
 
 In 1870, when travelling abroad, I received at 
 Vienna a message from Sir Henry Bulwer that 
 he was at Trieste, staying with Charles Lever, 
 whom we had both known so well at Florence. I 
 went to see him. He was on his way to Egypt for
 
 xv ROBERT LYTTON 185 
 
 his health, and died on his journey home, I think 
 at Naples. 
 
 Mr. Robert Lytton, who afterwards obtained 
 such distinction as poet under the name of " Owen 
 Meredith," as Ambassador, and as Viceroy of India, 
 was the nephew of Sir Henry Bulwer, and son of 
 Sir Edward Lytton, the well-known novelist, orator 
 and statesman, whose friendship I also enjoyed, 
 thanks to my acquaintance with his brother and 
 son. By the way, I recollect hearing Sir Robert 
 Peel, in the House of Commons, characterise Sir 
 Edward Lytton and Mr. Disraeli as " two fashion- 
 able novelists." 
 
 Through life, Robert Lytton and I were very 
 intimate. He was best man at my wedding, and I 
 was trustee to his marriage settlement, and had a 
 considerable amount of business in connection with 
 the details of his marriage. 
 
 Mr. Lytton proved by his subsequent life that 
 eminent merit and ability which were universally 
 recognised. He had the same affectionate dis- 
 position as the rest of his family, and, in addition, 
 an extraordinary plasticity of accomplishment. I 
 have seen him at work on philosophical instruments 
 and on toys. He was equally capable of modelling 
 a piece of sculpture and of constructing a fire- 
 balloon. 
 
 He was a great favourite with Lord Beacons- 
 field, and also with Lord Salisbury. As I shall 
 not return to his Indian career, it will perhaps not 
 be out of place here to introduce an interesting
 
 186 BEACONSFIELDS SUPPORT ch. 
 
 letter he wrote to me in October 1879, relative to 
 the Afghan War : — 
 
 I am extremely grateful for your verv kind and considerate 
 letter written after your visit to Hughenden. It is, of course, 
 an immense comfort and support to me to feel that I have 
 the continued confidence of the Chief in this new and very 
 trying phase of our Afghan difficulties. I feel most keenly 
 the cruel position in which the Ministry is placed by so 
 wholly unexpected and unmerited a blow. And you may 
 be sure that my utmost, endeavours will be directed, as they 
 have hitherto been, to strengthen the hands of the Prime 
 Minister, and enable him to meet Parliament in the strongest 
 position on this question that is compatible with due regard 
 to those paramount national interests which are systematic- 
 ally ignored by a thoroughly unscrupulous Opposition. I 
 am persuaded that a sacrifice of those interests would not 
 really strengthen the present position or future reputation 
 of the Government, and the task now before us is full of 
 difficulties. I am not yet in a position to indicate any 
 definite course of action. Such a course, to be safe and 
 sound, must be guided by a much fuller knowledge than 
 we yet possess of the circumstances of the massacres, and 
 the present condition of the Afghan Provinces ; but, what- 
 ever it may ultimately be, I feel confident that the final 
 result of it will be an accession of strength to the Empire 
 and of credit to Her Majesty's Government. "Thy servant 
 slew the lion and the bear, and who is this uncircumcised 
 Philistine that he should fear him ? 11 
 
 As soon as I am able to see my way more clearly to a 
 practical solution of the problem, I will gratefully avail myself 
 of your friendly offer, and furnish you with a full and early 
 explanation of all my plans and proposals, and all the facts 
 in reference to which they are formed. 
 
 Nothing that has occurred shakes my faith in the sound- 
 ness of the policy which resulted in the Gundamak Treaty. 
 In my mind the aims and principles of that policy remain 
 not only unchanged but confirmed by all that has happened ; 
 though I recognise the necessity of a considerable change in
 
 xv AFGHANISTAN 187 
 
 some of its methods. It is no longer possible to leave 
 independent of our supervision and control the internal 
 administration of any Afghan Government whose existence 
 is dependent on our support, and, in the present condition 
 of the country, no stable Afghan Government could exist 
 without our support. Abuses must be reformed and griev- 
 ances redressed with a strong hand. The people will welcome 
 any authority that does this for them. I mean the real 
 people — not the scoundrelism just now collected at Kabul. 
 And to any future arrangement, of a formal or permanent 
 character, the Sirdars must certainly be interested and 
 recognised parties, in accordance with the policy which has 
 answered so well in Beluchistan. 
 
 Afghanistan has at all times been a thoroughly artificial 
 political unit. The natural tendency to disintegration is 
 now so strong that I think it cannot be wisely disregarded 
 or opposed ; but the control of it is in our hands. I was 
 always persuaded — and this I told the Ameer — that the 
 Treaty of Gundamak was the last chance left for the 
 integrity of the Afghan Kingdom. Meanwhile the value 
 of the new frontier secured by that Treaty has been con- 
 spicuously proved by the rapidity with which, I trust, we 
 shall have occupied Kabul before this letter reaches you, 
 notwithstanding the desperate defence of the city which is 
 going on while I write, and also by the ease with which we 
 have already reoccupied Kandahar, where our return is 
 welcomed, as that of a deliverer, by the whole population 
 of Western Afghanistan. The Ameer, his Sirdars and 
 Ministers, the Herati Colonels and the Kabul people, were 
 all convinced that it would be impossible for us to move 
 forward in any force before the spring of next year ; and 
 they have been quite bewildered by the failure of this 
 calculation, on which they had made all their plans. But 
 had the crisis found us confined to our old frontier, the 
 calculation would have been perfectly correct. 
 
 I will take the earliest practical opportunity of writing to 
 you fully on the whole situation ; and meanwhile believe 
 me, my dear Wolff, with renewed thanks for your kind and 
 encouraging letter — Yours very sincerely, Lytton.
 
 188 MARRIAGE oh. 
 
 P.S. — I trust you left Lord Beaconsfield in good health. 
 Were he only twenty years younger I should feel much 
 greater confidence than I do now in the destinies not only 
 of the Government but of the country. 
 
 A Bengalee paper said of Sir George Campbell, M.P., 
 " He thought himself the Cactus Grandiflora of Bengal, and 
 flouted the native gentlemen with contumelious lip ; but the 
 House of Commons soon stripped him to rags and tatters, 
 and exposed his cui bono in all its naked hideousness. r> 
 
 Pray remember me to Lady Wolff. L. 
 
 In 1891, when on my way to Bucarest where 
 I was Minister for a short time, I stayed in Paris 
 in order to see Lord Lytton. I had been ill for 
 many months, and had been obliged to leave Persia. 
 From a hotel in the Faubourg St. Honore, where I 
 was staying, I sent to ask when I could see the 
 Ambassador. I was told that he was not well, 
 and I was obliged to go on my journey. The 
 next day I heard that he had died suddenly while 
 writing. 
 
 When living in Florence I became engaged, and 
 we were married very quietly at the Consulate at 
 Leghorn. My best man, as I said before, was Mr. 
 Lytton. Sir Henry Bulwer gave away the bride, 
 and her bridesmaids were the two daughters of 
 Lady Walpole, Miss Du Boulay, and an Italian 
 lady. From Leghorn we went to Lucca for a 
 few days, and thence to Carrara. Nothing can 
 be more beautiful than its marble quarries : they 
 are at the top of a mountain. The road leading 
 there is on the border of a clear, rapid stream, and 
 strewn with fragments of white marble dropped
 
 xv CARRARA 189 
 
 from the carts that carry it down to the sea. We 
 ascended this road on donkeys. 
 
 There was little to see at Carrara, except an 
 opera-house made of marble, where there was a 
 company of great merit. We stayed there with 
 the British Consul, Mr. Walton, a kind and 
 hospitable gentleman, full of good feeling and in- 
 telligence. His one peculiarity was that, though 
 between sixty and seventy, he was always dwelling 
 on the sad fact that he was an orphan. Whenever 
 we said anything in admiration of his attachment 
 to some relatives in England, he used to answer, 
 " We are all orphans." 
 
 On returning from Carrara, we stayed for a few 
 days at the villa of Mr. Spence, one of the " lions " 
 of Florence. He was a painter, an excellent com- 
 panion, and a man of great humour. He had been 
 married to an Italian lady, who had died, and his 
 house and children were governed by his sister- 
 in-law. 
 
 After this visit we took boat at Leghorn, and 
 proceeded to Naples, where we remained for some 
 time.
 
 CHAPTER XVI 
 
 British Legation at Naples — Neapolitan society — English visitors — 
 Lord and Lady Holland — Letters — Anecdotes of Popes 
 
 At Naples we found a most agreeable and in- 
 teresting society. Sir William Temple, brother of 
 Lord Palmerston — to whom the latter was much 
 attached — was Minister, and maintained the credit 
 of his country with great dignity. His position 
 was a very difficult one in consequence of the 
 differences between Lord Palmerston and the 
 various absolute Governments, and on account of 
 the opposition of England to the oppressive policy 
 of the King of Naples, known as Bomba. Sir 
 William Temple was very different from his brother. 
 With all his bonhomie, he had a manner quite the 
 contrary of Lord Palmerston's. He was very 
 quiet — almost shy — and from a- long diplomatic 
 career had learnt to moderate the expression of 
 his political feeling. He was, however, much liked 
 at Naples by the great mass of the people, though 
 some were afraid to consort with him, knowing 
 that he was looked upon with disfavour by the 
 Neapolitan Court. 
 
 Besides the Minister, the British Legation 
 
 190
 
 ch. xvi LEGATION AT NAPLES 191 
 
 consisted of Mr. William Lowther as Secretary, the 
 father of the present Speaker ; Mr. Clare Ford, 
 whom I had known in London, and who was 
 subsequently Ambassador at Madrid, Constan- 
 tinople, and Rome ; and Mr. Fagan, who had 
 long lived in Italy, and whose mother was an 
 Italian. In consequence of this, and the fact that 
 he spoke the language like a native, he was mis- 
 trusted by the authorities, and the following curious 
 incident occurred. I quote from a newspaper of 
 the day : — 
 
 A few evenings since Mr. Fagan, First Attache to the 
 British Legation at Naples, was charged by his Minister 
 with a commission to Prince Satriano, the Superintendent 
 of Theatres. To execute it he was obliged to go to the Teatro 
 del Fondo, the commission being simply to request a benefit 
 for Signora Paressa, an English lady now singing in Naples. 
 On his entering the Prince's box, the Director (Minister) 
 of Police, who was opposite, began to make signs of the 
 greatest anger and the most menacing gesticulations in that 
 direction, to the great astonishment of Prince Satriano, who 
 was unable to divine the reason of it. On the following day 
 the Director sent for Signor Attanasio, one of the employes 
 of the Superintendenza, and, heaping the lowest insults on 
 Prince Satriano for having received such a man as Signor 
 Fagan, who was stigmatised as a birbante assassmo, and an 
 enemy of the King, ordered him to inform the Prince that 
 he prohibited him from ever again receiving Mr. Fagan in 
 his box. 
 
 Another attache to the Legation was Mr. 
 Fletcher Norton, son of Mrs. Norton, the 
 authoress, poetess, and beauty, who was a sister 
 of the Duchess of Somerset and Lady Dufferin. 
 Mrs. Norton herself was in Naples, during the
 
 192 THE EVIL EYE oh. 
 
 greater part of our stay, with her son Brinsley. 
 M. Barrot, whom I have mentioned already, was 
 the French Minister. There also resided at Naples 
 Mr. Augustus Craven, who had been in diplomacy. 
 He had a very pleasant and hospitable house, 
 where he gave not only dinners, but private 
 theatricals. His wife was by birth Mademoiselle 
 de la Ferronaye : she was much liked in all 
 European society. 
 
 The Russian Minister was a man well known in 
 the world — Count Chreptovitch. He had married 
 a daughter of Count Nesselrode, a very acute and 
 clever woman. Later on he was accredited to 
 London, but before long gave way to Baron 
 Briinnow, who had been Minister before the war. 
 A curious incident occurred while I was at a ball 
 at their house. The Russians have a sweetmeat 
 made of sugar, manipulated in a certain fashion 
 until it assumes the form of a reed- plant. Guests 
 break pieces off from the points of the leaves 
 to eat. On this particular occasion, there was 
 present a Neapolitan who had the character of 
 possessing la jettatura, or the evil eye, so that 
 anything he looked upon underwent some mis- 
 fortune. As I was standing near the imitation 
 reed, which formed the principal ornament of the 
 table, he came and, like every one else, broke off 
 the end of a leaf. As he touched it, the whole 
 thing came down with a crash. I had met this 
 gentleman at Florence, and knew of his reputation. 
 When this occurred I saw him turn perfectly
 
 xvi ENGLISH IN NAPLES 193 
 
 white : he made some exclamation of annoyance, 
 and left the house. 
 
 We also made the acquaintance at Naples of 
 Count and Countess Bernstorff, whom we sub- 
 sequently knew very well in London, where he 
 succeeded Baron Bunsen. He was here for a long- 
 time, and was much liked. I still possess the 
 card inviting us to the great ball given by them at 
 Prussia House, at which the Queen and Prince 
 Albert were present, at the time of the Crimean 
 War. 
 
 Amongst the Italians of whom we saw a good 
 deal were the Marchese Caracciolo and his younger 
 brother, the Duke of St. Arpino. Both were sons 
 of the Duke of San Teodoro. Marchese Carac- 
 ciolo married the widow of Lord Burghersh. 
 He succeeded first to the title of his younger 
 brother, who died, and later on to that of his 
 father. Other Italians who lived very much 
 with the English and spoke our language were 
 the Duke of Forli and Prince Dentice. The 
 young men of Naples who had sympathy with 
 England all bought English bulldogs, whom they 
 used to address in such terms as, " G — d— you, 
 come here, bulldog ! " 
 
 The Court lived in great seclusion and gave no 
 entertainments. The only hospitality shown by 
 royalty was the reception of morning visits by the 
 Count and Countess de Trapani. She was a Tuscan 
 princess. There were also some very interesting 
 French plays given from time to time by the 
 
 vol. i o
 
 194 LORD AND LADY HOLLAND ch. 
 
 Count of Syracuse, in which members of Nea- 
 politan society took part. I recollect that on one 
 occasion the celebrated French song "La corde 
 sensible" was excellently sung by Count Marcello 
 Gallo, said to be a descendant of Marcellus Gallus. 
 This brought the old world and the new somewhat 
 close together. 
 
 There were a great many travellers, some of 
 whom I have already mentioned, having known 
 them in Florence, amongst others Colonel West, a 
 son of Lord De La Warr. In Naples we met 
 Mr. and Lady Hermione Graham, who were 
 only just married. She was a niece of Mrs. 
 Norton, and we saw them constantly, as Sir 
 William Temples friends all lived in a little 
 clique, dining together almost every day. But 
 the great feature of society was the house of 
 Lord and Lady Holland, the Palazzo Rocella. In 
 their home was one continual round of enter- 
 tainment. Though Lord Holland was a strong 
 Liberal, and came of a staunch Liberal family, he 
 was acceptable to the whole of Neapolitan society. 
 Lord Holland was a relative of Lady Walpole, and 
 her trustee — Mr. Spencer Walpole also being a 
 member of the trust. Lady Holland was through 
 life a great friend of my wife's, and we still possess 
 many letters of hers giving the most interesting 
 social and political news. 
 
 I have many reasons for gratitude to Lord 
 Holland up to the time when I left England in 
 1859, the year he died. He had three houses
 
 xvi LORD PALMERSTONS DEATH 195 
 
 besides the one already mentioned : Holland House 
 in London, St. Anne's Hill, Chertsey, and a house 
 in Paris, which they visited occasionally. All four 
 were made pleasant to the guests admitted to them, 
 and, wherever Lord and Lady Holland lived, there 
 was always to be found the cream of social success. 
 One of their great friends was a gentleman 
 named Ridgway, an old man with curly hair, who 
 was related, I believe, to the publishing firm. He 
 was very rich, giving constant dinners, and was 
 always making little presents to ladies. Two of 
 Lord Holland's special intimates were M. Masson 
 and the Comte de Pontois, who had been French 
 Ambassador at Constantinople. Like many of 
 their friends, M. Pontois was an Orleanist, while 
 M. Masson was also a politician of great modera- 
 tion. In a letter written to my wife by Lady 
 Holland, she says : — 
 
 I will transgress your orders and answer your kind line, 
 for this reason, that as you happen to mention M. Masson 
 and Count Pontois, I feel an itching to tell you that the 
 former has just been named Prefet du Dipartement du 
 Nord, and the other has been made happy by the restitution 
 of that part of his pension of retired Ambassador of which 
 he had been most iniquitously deprived. 
 
 Shortly after Lord Palmerston's death Lady 
 Holland wrote as follows : — 
 
 I am very unhappy about poor Palmerston. He is the 
 last of the set I remember at Holland House when I entered 
 it, and she has ever been a kind and true friend to me. I 
 have had a long letter from Fanny Jocelyn. She says her 
 mother is weak, but bears up and is calm and resigned —
 
 196 THE COMMUNE oh. 
 
 happy that he went first, as she feels she was essential to 
 him, which is perfectly true. 
 
 Another time she writes : — 
 
 Poor Lord Dalling ! It has been a grief — a great 
 grief — to all of us. He had token a fancy to Mary, 1 and 
 their correspondence was regular and charming. It is a 
 heavy penalty for life, that of losing dear friends. 
 
 The following was written when Paris was 
 destroyed, during the Commune : — 
 
 You come to me for consolation ! Alas ! I am in the 
 depths of despondency. I regret to have lived to see such 
 horrors. Vandalism in the nineteenth century ! Oh, what 
 a people ! Voltaire says — where ? I forget — " singes et 
 tigres." I cannot forgive the sinners the faults they have 
 committed. J. Favre and Thiers are cause of all — not to 
 disarm, then going to Versailles, and taking two months 
 to collect an army which now will be one of the great 
 difficulties, leaving time for the perpetration of horrors. A 
 male population of upwards of a million supine while their 
 capital was being prepared for utter destruction ! You ask 
 me if any of my political habitues know where the country is 
 drifting. My habitues are few just now. Poor old Pontois 
 has received the last Sacrament at Boulogne-sur-Mer, but 
 has rallied since. Broglie is gone to look after his 
 wounded son. I have a letter from a friend just fresh from 
 Versailles. He says he can't find a solution for the present 
 difficulties, and adds: "Monsieur Thiers joue les monarchistes 
 blancs et tricolores. Les republicains jouent M. Thiers. 
 Les <F Orleans jouent les Bourbons, et il se pourrait qiiau 
 lendemain de la chute de Paris, les deux drapeaux serieux 
 fussent celui de la republique et celui de V Empire /" I don't 
 believe in either, but I feel no interest more. Paris de- 
 stroyed ! I care not for the destroyers or those who have 
 allowed the destruction. 
 
 Goodbye. I am too wretched. I cannot write. 
 
 1 Lady Holland's adopted daughter.
 
 xvi LORD HOLLANDS LETTERS 197 
 
 Lord Holland wrote to me from Naples on 
 April 27, 1858, as follows : — 
 
 I send you a letter to put in the post, and write in 
 hopes of hearing from you, for I have nothing to tell you 
 interesting from here. 
 
 Dizzy's Budget seems to be a success. I am glad for 
 him. It always gives me pleasure to see talent successful 
 and triumph over humdrum. 
 
 I do not think the state of Europe is at all comfortable. 
 It seems to me that the Emperor at Paris has got into 
 trouble and difficulties foreign and domestic by his violent 
 terror since the crime of Orsini. He has been blowing hot 
 and cold, and lost his calm impassibility. I fear that to 
 divert ill-will at home, and to give other interests to foreign 
 nations and people, he will judge (perhaps not unwisely) 
 that war is the only game left to him to play. He grinds 
 his teeth at us, but I suspect he does not mean to strike at 
 us. He has no immediate point to gain. His blows, if he 
 does deal them, will be against others ; but, sooner than fall, 
 he will see all Europe up in arms and trust to his " Star,"' 
 which, though not so bright as it was, does not seem setting 
 yet, to get some material advantage somewhere in the 
 scramble. All Italy and, I believe, Vienna too are 
 trembling — some of the governed with hope — all that 
 govern, with fear. Pray write. 
 
 In another letter from Naples, he wrote : — 
 
 M. Brenier is here. The King ran away to a distant 
 and fictitious hunt in the country. The Foreign Minister 
 and several of the courtiers have taken to their beds to 
 avoid even the imputation of having spoken to him. He 
 has quietly observed that if the King does not fix a day he 
 shall go back and leave with His Majesty the responsibility 
 of having refused to receive him. 
 
 On October .'J, 1854, Lord Holland wrote me 
 the following letter from Paris : —
 
 198 PAPAL WIT cm 
 
 Your friend, Mr. Lytton, dined with us yesterday, so 
 we have lost no time in trying to make acquaintance. Odo 
 
 Russell and also came. The latter is to succeed Odo at 
 
 the Embassy here, which I much regret, as Odo is very 
 
 agreeable, and 's intellect, I am willing to suppose, is 
 
 far beyond the comprehension of such prosaic beings as 
 myself. . . . 
 
 Hiibner's felicitations on the victory in the Crimea was 
 not from Austrian Minister to French Minister, but from 
 Emperor to Emperor. A friend of mine saw the original 
 despatch ! 
 
 Lord Odo Russell was always a most popular 
 man. When at Rome, as unofficial agent, he 
 managed to obtain the good graces of the Pope, 
 Pius IX. One day, after an audience, His 
 Holiness expressed to a Cardinal, who was with 
 him, his liking for the English Agent. 
 
 The Cardinal said, "Forse qnalchc giorno sard 
 cattolico." 
 
 Pio Nono's reply is said to have been, " Non 
 mm cattolico, ma cattivissimo protest ante." 
 
 I know many other instances of the wit of 
 Popes, and hope the two following anecdotes have 
 not been related before. 
 
 Gregory XIV., who was much addicted to 
 taking snuff, offered a pinch to a country priest. 
 
 " No, mille grazie, Santita" was the reply. 
 " Non ho quel vizio." 
 
 The Pope said, " Se fosse un vizio, V avreste." 
 
 The late Pope, when a Cardinal, went a great 
 deal into society, where his wit and conversational 
 powers were much appreciated. Once, at a dinner- 
 party, he perceived that at one end of the table
 
 xvi ABOUT BISHOPS 199 
 
 a snuff-box was being shown by one of the guests 
 to his neighbours, and also that precautions were 
 apparently being used to prevent the Cardinal 
 from seeing it. These were useless, and he 
 requested that the box might be sent up for him 
 to inspect. On the lid was the representation of 
 the nude figure of a woman. When the Cardinal 
 saw it, he said to the owner, " A very handsome 
 woman ! You are quite right always to travel 
 with a picture of your wife." 
 
 A story was once told me of the Bishop of 
 Agen. He had been married before he became a 
 priest, and his daughters did the honours of the 
 episcopal palace. A very devote French lady 
 called upon him, and was rather astonished when 
 a young man came into the room, whom the 
 Bishop introduced as " Mon fits." A few minutes 
 later another young man came in, whereupon the 
 Bishop said, "Mon second fils" The lady then 
 started up, saying, " Une fois passe. A tout peche 
 miser icorde. Mais deux fois — 6 monseigneur ! " 
 and she left the room.
 
 CHAPTER XVII 
 
 Return to Florence — Journey to England — Prince Louis Lucien 
 Bonaparte — Chemical and philological studies — Family — Mutual 
 friends — Meetings with Prince Louis Lucien. 
 
 After our stay in Naples, we returned to Florence 
 and found Mr. Scarlett installed in lieu of Mr. 
 Erskine, who had returned to Turin. Mr. Scarlett 
 did not remain there very long, as he was appointed 
 Minister at Brussels, and Lord Normanby suc- 
 ceeded to the post he desired. This change, how- 
 ever, took place after I had returned to the Foreign 
 Office in London. 
 
 On our journey to England, we stayed in Paris 
 and saw Prince Louis Lucien Bonaparte, whom 
 we had both known for many years. With him 
 was an Italian officer, who had been in the French 
 army and was known as Commandant Cavagnari : 
 it was his son who was killed in Afghanistan. 
 
 Prince Louis Lucien was a very remarkable 
 man and a great student ; an eminent chemist, 
 as well as a great philologist. One of his special 
 studies in chemistry was that of poisons, and how 
 far they could be utilised for the benefit of 
 humanity. It was his idea that hydrophobia was 
 
 200
 
 ch. xvii SUICIDE ABANDONED 201 
 
 caused by the circulation of the blood being over- 
 stimulated, and, as an antidote, he considered that 
 the poison of vipers would be beneficial, its effect 
 being to diminish rapidity of circulation. With 
 this object he used to collect vipers, and, having 
 put pressure on their throats, he held a watch- 
 glass, on which they would deposit two drops of 
 venom. This remedy was tried on a man in 
 the last stage of hydrophobia, and, though his life 
 was not saved, his violence was softened and 
 tranquillised. 
 
 On one occasion Prince Lucien was showing 
 his vipers to a young lady of sentimental disposi- 
 tion, who professed to wish to terminate her 
 existence. She asked him for a viper, so as to 
 carry out her object, and he, knowing that the 
 viper had been rendered innocuous some hours 
 before, gave her one immediately. The young lady 
 said, however, that her death would grieve her 
 mother too much, and so she relinquished the idea. 
 
 The Prince's linguistic studies were excessively 
 minute and careful, and he had begun a dictionary 
 in, I believe, fifty-two languages. He had also 
 erected a monument to the last woman known to 
 have spoken Cornish. He paid special attention 
 to English dialects, and, though not himself able 
 completely to formulate the pronunciation of 
 English words, he defined very clearly the rules 
 by which pronunciation should be guided. The 
 Song of Solomon was translated by his orders into 
 every English dialect.
 
 202 PRINCE LOUIS I,. BONAPARTE ch. 
 
 The following is an instance of liis analytic 
 powers : — 
 
 Chary is an adjective which signifies not only " careful, 
 cautious,'' and sometimes even "sad," but also the French 
 adjective vunager, so that chary - woman means char- 
 woman, or, vulgarly, chare-woman. Chary, in effect, is, as 
 well as careful, the adjective of care. Spiers' French-English 
 and English - French dictionary gives menager as one of 
 the meanings of the English chary, and in the Ormulum, 
 i. 1274, one finds : For turtle ledeth chariz lif, " For the 
 turtle leads a mournful life." In the sense of " sad," chary 
 is rarely used, but in that of menager, menagere, it is the 
 synonym of char in char-woman, who, after all, is only a 
 care-xvoman. 
 
 Care and chare have also the sense of the French souci 
 and of the Italian cura. 
 
 The Anglo-Saxon root of care is caru, "sorrow, care," 
 and that of chary is cear'ig, "full of care," which is itself 
 derived from cearu, the Anglo-Saxon synonym of caru. 
 
 Prince Louis Lucien was the son of Prince 
 Lucien Bonaparte, the brother of Napoleon I. who 
 refused a crown. He was the younger brother 
 of the Prince of Canino, who was of a far more 
 turbulent nature. Prince Louis Lucien was 
 high in the confidence of the Emperor Napoleon 
 III., and I believe was one of the guardians 
 appointed to the Prince Imperial. He was much 
 depressed by the death of the latter, and, though 
 he had always led a very secluded life, was still 
 more of a recluse afterwards. The downfall of the 
 Empire seriously injured his financial position, 
 though I believe he inherited some money from 
 his nephew, Mr. Stuart, the son of Lord Dudley
 
 L^ '^in-<. 1 
 
 /^^^W^
 
 xvii HIS LONDON HOME 203 
 
 Stuart, who had married his sister. Mr. Glad- 
 stone, who had a great respect for him on account 
 of his literary qualities, conferred on him an 
 English pension, being enabled to say with trutli 
 that he was a British subject, as he was born at 
 Thorngrove House, in Herefordshire. 
 
 In feature, the Prince presented a striking 
 resemblance to the Emperor Napoleon I. He had 
 discarded the strong Liberal principles professed 
 by his elder brother, the Prince of Canino, and 
 his younger brother, Prince Pierre. When about 
 sixteen, he had written a poem against the 
 Papacy, which later in life, however, he upheld 
 and reverenced. He was a perfect encyclopaedia 
 of learning, ancient and modern, and wrote English 
 idiomatically, as a result of much study. He had 
 two semi-detached houses in Westbourne Grove, 
 now called Norfolk Terrace, Bayswater. In one 
 of them he lived ; but he devoted the other to 
 science, forming a magnificent philological library, 
 and converting the cellars into a chemical labora- 
 tory. In his library there was the following 
 
 inscription : — 
 
 O beata solitudo, 
 O sola beatitudo ! 
 
 He never interfered in politics. The early part of 
 his manhood was passed in a little villa called the 
 Villino Bonaparte, outside the Porta San Gallo 
 at Florence, on a rivulet, the Mugnone, not far 
 from the Villa Palmieri. Here he sought the 
 society of professors and philosophers. He also
 
 204 ORSINI ch. 
 
 possessed a villa at Montughi, left to him by his 
 uncle, the Comte de St. Leu — Louis, ex-King of 
 Holland, brother of Napoleon I., and father of 
 Napoleon III. 
 
 In London, where I first knew him, Prince 
 Louis Lucien often went to the house of some 
 relatives of mine, who had lived on terms of great 
 intimacy with him at Florence. In London they 
 kept up the old Italian habit of receiving every 
 evening, and their house was quite cosmopolitan. 
 They were most hospitable and kind-hearted, and 
 had a large acquaintance of a miscellaneous 
 character ; but, being advanced Liberals of the 
 Continental type, they at times received the 
 principal revolutionary leaders, and were cognisant 
 of their plans and proceedings. Prince Louis 
 Lucien, who was a faithful friend, did not desist 
 from frequenting the house, though often deploring 
 the political tendencies of those he met there. He 
 made it a point of pride, when his fortunes were 
 prospering, not to abandon his early friends, and, 
 even as a first cousin of the Emperor Napoleon III., 
 he was frequently constrained to meet at this house 
 persons whose political labour and methods were 
 distasteful and even hostile to him. 
 
 I recollect on one occasion, in 1856, the lion 
 of the evening was Orsini, who had recently 
 escaped from prison at Mantua. I did not speak 
 with him ; but I remember his face, the dominating 
 feature of which was a restless pair of black eyes. 
 Prince Louis Lucien drove me home that evening,
 
 xvii SEEKING FOR NEWS 205 
 
 and I gathered from his manner how much 
 annoyed he had been at the meeting, and at the 
 conversation he had heard of the Italians present. 
 He scarcely spoke. His mood was one of sorrow 
 at meeting persons so hostile to the head of his 
 family, from whom he was receiving great benefits. 
 On leaving me at my door, he expressed a wish 
 to see me again soon, but added that thenceforth 
 it had better be at his own house. He did not 
 entirely abandon his old friends, but never went 
 to see them unless satisfied that there were no 
 strangers. After the attempt by Orsini, I fancy 
 he discontinued his visits altogether. 
 
 At the outset of the French disasters in 1870, 
 he came to me at the Athenaeum, of which we 
 were both members, and, curiously enough, took 
 me in his carriage with the Bonaparte liveries to 
 the door of the Prussian Embassy, where I 
 endeavoured to obtain some authentic news. 
 This occurred a few days before my going abroad 
 and visiting the seat of war. At the fall of the 
 Empire, the Prince naturally lost his allowance 
 as well as his pay as Senator, and, having made 
 some bad investments, he was at one time reduced 
 to considerable pecuniary straits. He would never, 
 however, at any time part with his library, which 
 contained some thousands of Bibles, or with his 
 collection of chemicals, including some very valu- 
 able metals which he intended at one time to leave 
 to the British Museum ; but he found some 
 technical difficulty in carrying out this wish.
 
 CHAPTER XVIII 
 
 Return to Foreign Office — Changes — Foreign Office and House of 
 Commons — Hard work in connection with the Crimean War — 
 Entertainments — Friends in the diplomatic corps — Holland House 
 —Friends in London — Letter from Lord Lytton on writing novels 
 —Mr. Kinglake on Fiction. 
 
 When I got back to the Foreign Office, I found 
 considerable changes. Lord Aberdeen had become 
 head of the Government, and Lord Palmerston 
 Home Secretary. Lord Clarendon was at the 
 Foreign Office, with Lord Wodehouse as Under- 
 Secretary. Mr. Hammond had been appointed 
 Permanent Under-Secretary, and Mr. Spencer 
 Ponsonby was again private secretary to the 
 Secretary of State. 
 
 Since that time, I have been very much struck 
 by the necessity of the Foreign Office being repre- 
 sented in the House of Commons, either by the 
 Secretary of State or by the Under-Secretary. A 
 great deal of harm was done during Lord Palmer- 
 ston's administration, for neither Lord Clarendon 
 nor Lord Wodehouse had ever been in the House of 
 Commons. The result was that the whole burden 
 of defending our foreign policy fell upon Lord 
 Palmerston, who naturally could not give the same 
 
 206
 
 ch. xviii DEFEAT OF PALMERSTON 207 
 
 attention to details as a younger man less over- 
 whelmed with business. The work of representa- 
 tives of a department in the House of Commons 
 lies not merely in debating, but in conversing in 
 the lobbies with other Members, and in ascertain- 
 ing the real spirit which pervades Parliament. 
 This clearly could not be done by a man of Lord 
 Palmerston's calibre. After all, the talks in the 
 lobbies, though merely a superior kind of gossip, 
 are most important as indicating the current of 
 public opinion. 
 
 The result was that, when Lord Palmerston's 
 Government was turned out, it was on a question 
 of foreign policy. He had successfully overcome 
 the opposition to the Chinese War, and had also 
 obtained the upper hand in the subsequent dissolu- 
 tion ; but on the Conspiracy Bill, which was the 
 means taken by the new Parliament to upset him, 
 he had no notion, it is said, until the division was 
 taken, that there was such strong feeling in the 
 House on the subject. Mr. Clive intended to move 
 the adjournment just before the division, but this 
 Lord Palmerston declined, knowing that a much 
 more disagreeable question, of a personal character, 
 would shortly be raised. 
 
 Lord Wodehouse was succeeded by Lord Shel- 
 burne, and thus the Foreign Office was again at 
 a disadvantage from having no representative in 
 the popular House. 
 
 I found that I had returned to really hard work, 
 for we were approaching the Crimean War. It is
 
 208 THE CRIMEAN WAR oh. 
 
 difficult now to realise the great labour that fell 
 to our share in the Foreign Office, for several 
 countries were involved, both belligerent and non- 
 belligerent. Prussia, though non-belligerent, took 
 active steps in favour of Russia. Austria, though 
 also neutral, sympathised with the Allies, and 
 would have finally joined in the war had Russia 
 shown any reluctance to accept the peace when 
 offered. At the height of the war, the following 
 nations were concerned : England, France, and 
 Sardinia, as belligerents ; Austria and Prussia as 
 non-belligerents, and many minor countries were 
 similarly affected — Saxony amongst them, whose 
 Minister at Paris was very active in working for 
 peace. He was Count Seebach, who had married a 
 daughter of Count Nesselrode, Countess Chrepto- 
 vitch's sister. 
 
 The result of this was an enormous amount of 
 work. Of every despatch coming or going, in con- 
 nection with the war, at least seven or eight copies 
 had to be made for the information of the Missions 
 to the different Courts especially involved. In 
 addition to this, there was the ciphering and 
 deciphering of telegrams, fair records of which had 
 also to be sent whenever a Queen's Messenger 
 started with a bag. 
 
 I was placed in the Austrian and Prussian 
 Department, which was more burdened with work 
 than any other. Telegrams from Constantinople 
 were sent by telegraph to Adrianople, where 
 Queen's Messengers were waiting to carry them
 
 xviii QUEENS MESSENGERS 209 
 
 to Belgrade, whence they were sent to Vienna, 
 then the nearest telegraph -station. Thus these 
 telegrams came under the Austrian Department. 
 The wonderful journeys of some Queen's Mes- 
 sengers on horseback were common topics of con- 
 versation. One of them told me that whenever he 
 had to change horses, it was impossible for him to 
 get off one horse or to mount the other. He used, 
 therefore, to be carried, saddle and all, to the relay 
 horse. The services of one Queen's Messenger, 
 Colonel Townley, were so valuable that Lord 
 Palmerston eulogised them in Parliament. 
 
 As for my own part in the business, I often 
 wonder how I got through it. Not only had I to 
 work at the Office in the day-time for many hours, 
 but, as there was no special telegraph service estab- 
 lished — it being then quite new — I had to keep the 
 ciphers at my own house, and used to be called up 
 at any hour to decipher despatches. When this 
 was done, I had to make four or five copies : one for 
 the Queen, one for the Secretary of State, one each 
 for the Leaders of the House of Lords and the 
 House of Commons, and one for general circulation 
 in the Cabinet. We all cudgelled our brains to 
 find some means of facilitating this work, and I 
 recollect later going with Lord Shelburne to one 
 or two places to examine inventions with this 
 object. Alas ! type -writing was unknown. It 
 would have spared some lives, and the health of 
 many, for the labour was really killing. But work, 
 and hard work, engenders the power of more work, 
 vol. i p
 
 210 A GREAT BEAUTY oh. 
 
 and while all this was going on I also undertook 
 some literary employment. 
 
 There was a good deal of amusement, too, con- 
 sidering the general pressure. Lady Palmerston 
 and Lady Clarendon gave their usual receptions, 
 as did the other Ministers' wives. Two balls in 
 uniform were given about this time — for I can- 
 not tie myself down to exact dates — one by the 
 Turkish Ambassador, and one at the Prussian 
 Legation. 
 
 Count Walewski, the French Ambassador, who 
 married, as has already been stated, the daughter 
 of Marchesa Ricci, also gave numerous parties and 
 receptions. At one of these I recollect that Miss 
 de Rothschild, daughter of Baron Lionel de 
 Rothschild, made her first appearance, and was 
 much admired for her marvellous beauty. She 
 subsequently married her cousin, Baron Alphonse 
 de Rothschild, who has recently died. 
 
 Amongst my friends in the diplomatic corps, 
 the principal ones were Count Corti and Count 
 Gropello, of the Sardinian Legation, and Monsieur 
 Sarmiento, son of Baron Moncorvo, the Portuguese 
 Minister. Mademoiselle Sarmiento, his sister, 
 married, I believe, Mr. Sandeman. The whole 
 family were always very good-natured and cordial. 
 I also knew, though not so intimately as those 
 just mentioned, the Marquis d' Azeglio, Sardinian 
 Minister. He was the nephew of the great 
 Massimo d' Azeglio, whom I had also met more 
 than once at Florence, and with whom, on one
 
 xviii HOLLAND HOUSE 211 
 
 occasion, 1 made the journey from Leghorn to 
 Genoa. 
 
 Lady Holland had been good enough to give to 
 my wife letters to her friends, who were very kind ; 
 and when they themselves came to London, we 
 were constantly at Holland House. Society there 
 was notably international, with a strong element of 
 old Italian. It was there that Madame Castisdione 
 made more than one appearance. I recollect that, 
 when going from Holland House to a party at 
 Lansdowne House, she met a lady who had known 
 her well during her childhood and youth in Italy, 
 and who said to her, " Come siete be/la ! " Madame 
 Castiglione replied, " Lo dicono, ma io non lo so." 
 
 Lord and Lady Holland consistently maintained 
 the reputation of the house. His mother had been 
 a very remarkable and eccentric woman, who kept 
 control of her dinner-table by placing near her 
 chair a page, named Harold, whom she sent with 
 messages to her guests. Mr. Macaulay was a con- 
 stant frequenter of her house. They say that his 
 defect was holding forth at too great length. He 
 was only checked by a message sent to him by 
 Lady Holland through Harold : " Her Ladyship's 
 compliments, and she hopes Mr. Macaulay will 
 change the conversation ! " 
 
 At the head of what may be called the Anglo- 
 Italian society was Sir Antonio Panizzi. He was, 
 I believe, Modenese by birth, and a man of great 
 literary ability, which led to his being made Chief 
 Librarian at the British Museum. He was fully
 
 212 SIR ANTONIO PANIZZI oh. 
 
 trusted by the Whig party, and gave them advice 
 at a time when Italian politics were very much to 
 the fore. He had one quality of an extraordinary 
 character, namely, the knowledge of the backs of 
 books. If any one required a list of the authorities 
 on any given subject, Sir Antonio Panizzi would 
 sit down, and, without consulting any book of 
 reference, write a list of works that exhausted the 
 whole subject. The former librarian at Holland 
 House had been a gentleman who also had most 
 extensive knowledge : he was known as " Lady 
 Holland's Atheist," being an unobtrusive disbeliever 
 in all revealed religion. 
 
 In those days 1 had a very little house in 
 Berkeley Square, just opposite Lansdowne House, 
 where I met with much kindness both from Lord 
 Lansdowne and his son, Lord Shelburne, who after 
 the Peace was raised to the peerage, and became 
 Under-Secretary for Foreign Affairs. 
 
 At the time of the renewal of relations with 
 Russia, Lord Wodehouse was appointed Minister at 
 St. Petersburg, having as his First Secretary Mr. 
 Julian Fane, a man of great accomplishments, who 
 was much beloved. They were both extraordinarily 
 young for the posts to which they were appointed. 
 In conjunction with Mr. Lytton, Mr. Julian Fane 
 later wrote a poem called Tannhauser, which had 
 a great popularity. 
 
 Amongst other letters that I brought to London 
 were two from Sir Henry Bulwer and Mr. Lytton 
 to their brother and father, Sir Edward Bulwer
 
 xvm NOVEL-WRITING 213 
 
 Lytton. From that time, till the day of his death, 
 I was fortunate enough to have his confidence and 
 friendship, and I passed much of my time at Kneb- 
 worth. A short time previously, I had endeavoured 
 to write a novel, which, fortunately for me, is now 
 buried in oblivion ; but at Mr. Lytton's suggestion 
 I had sent a copy of it to his father, from whom I 
 received in return the following interesting letter 
 of advice : — 
 
 I have read your tale with much interest. It is marked 
 by freshness and originality, and gives great promise, if you 
 will do justice to that promise by deep and careful study of 
 those principles of narrative composition by which alone you 
 can adequately work out the results you would have in view. 
 A first work of this kind is generally struck off without 
 method from vivid impressions that would reproduce them- 
 selves spontaneously. But he who desires to become a master 
 in the art of fiction will afterwards learn how to concentre 
 his impressions and experience so as to have one clear and 
 strong conception of the leading ideas he would present, and 
 he will then pass from conception to execution with deliberate 
 forethought as to the most effective and skilful modes of im- 
 pressing the ideas upon the widest range of human minds. To 
 do this he will consider what scenes in his story he should 
 select for most effect, and consider how they are to be worked 
 up through passion or humour to their fitting grade in the 
 scale of feeling. There are three masterpieces in narration 
 which can never be too much studied — the (Edipus Tyrannus* 
 The Brule of ' .Lammermoor, and Tom Jones. — Yours truly, 
 
 E. B. L. 
 
 * The Drama differs in its laws from the Novel, but should be 
 carefully studied no less by the Novel-writer. Voltaire's plays instruct 
 much as to the art of telling a story and leading to a catastrophe — in 
 other words, to the sustainnient of interest. 
 
 Although I am anticipating by rather a long
 
 214 MR. KINGLAKE ON FICTION ch. 
 
 period, I may perhaps couple with Lord Lytton's 
 letter another, on Fiction, written to me many years 
 later by Mr. Kinglake. I had been invited to 
 address a literary institution at Huddersfield. Mr. 
 Kinglake, like myself, was very fond of novel- 
 reading, and at that time a set had been made at 
 novels, which we considered pedantic and unfair. 
 The following is Mr. Kinglake's letter : — 
 
 In making a choice of books, I hope you will not overlook 
 the Novel. Of course, a great novel does not lecture or 
 preach, but for that very reason the more it governs the 
 heart of the reader. What the Iliad, what the acted drama 
 has been to mankind, the novel is at this day. It tells one 
 of Life — life freed from its humdrum details ; life, in short, 
 with the dull parts left out ; so that at one and the same 
 moment the happy reader can enjoy the independence of 
 solitude, and the charm of the most delightful society — 
 society caught and seized by the power of genius at its 
 fairest and brightest moments. 
 
 It is mainly, I think, by novels that a high ideal of human 
 excellence is maintained ; and — as though for the furtherance 
 of that very end — there is always a tacit convention between 
 the author of the novel and its reader. The author is under- 
 stood to engage that the " hero, - " whatever his faults, shall at 
 least be brave, honourable, generous, and that the "heroine'" 
 shall be a true, enchanting woman. With this understand- 
 ing, the readers — before even cutting the pages — vow and 
 promise a kind of allegiance ; my lady undertaking to 
 love, honour, and — theoretically — obey the yet unseen 
 " hero," who, because of the accepted " convention," is 
 almost sure to be worthy of her; and the man-reader fondly 
 betrothing himself to one who, because she is the " heroine," 
 must needs be lovely and true. The author, on his part, does 
 not dare forget the " convention " — does not dare make the 
 " hero " a mean fellow, or the " heroine " unwomanly. If he 
 were to do so, the injured readers would fill heaven and
 
 xviii NOVEL-READING 215 
 
 earth with their complaints, and this quite justly, because 
 in such case they would be dupes who had been led to 
 promise their affections to unworthy objects. So, from the 
 healthy relations thus established between the teacher and 
 the taught, it follows that a higher and higher ideal is always 
 being offered by the novel, and is always, too, being accepted 
 by the docile, grateful reader. 
 
 Hence it is that amongst us novel -readers there obtains 
 a conceptional elevation of the moral character which tends 
 to make us better than our neighbours — much better, for 
 instance, than you busy statesmen who blunt your souls 
 with blue-books. 
 
 I am only, of course, speaking of that single, though 
 great step towards excellence which consists in having a 
 high ideal ; and we must not forget the real examples 
 afforded us by sacred and profane history ; but still I must 
 own that to novels — good novels — I owe what approach 
 towards perfection I have hitherto been able to make. 
 
 I hope you will tell your hearers that, whenever they are 
 reading a really good novel, they may be sure that they are 
 holding converse with a mind of the highest order ; and the 
 lighter the touch, the greater in all probability is the 
 intellectual strength of the artist. I once read an article 
 in a magazine upon a grave, if not abstruse subject, and it 
 was written with so much power, with such judgment, with 
 such absolute command of the subject, and, besides, in such 
 sterling English, that I was led to ask the name of the 
 writer endowed with so much strength. The answer was, 
 " Mrs. Oliphant " ! I had long been under the charm of her 
 delightful novels, and had recognised, of course, the fertility 
 of her invention, her subtle knowledge of character, and her 
 faculty of keeping one interested at every page ; but that 
 answer taught me that a part of the spell, after all, was 
 a powerful intellect reinforcing that faculty of swift percep- 
 tion, which is peculiarly the woman's gift. — Always, my dear 
 Wolff, very truly yours, A. W. Kinglake. 
 
 p m S. — You now ask me to say which of Mrs. Oliphanfs 
 novels I like best ; but I could not well answer the question
 
 216 MRS. OLIPHANT'S BOOKS ch. xvm 
 
 without having, as it were, a kind of remorse at the notion 
 of leaving any of them unpreferred. Still, for the sake of 
 one of the most charming characters she has created, I will 
 say that you might well counsel your young friends to read 
 The Three Brothers. The more they come to love the 
 " Padrona," the worthier jthey will be of this heart-stirring, 
 human existence, in which, after all, such a one as the 
 " Padrona " is possible.
 
 CHAPTER XIX 
 
 Holiday in Elba — Napoleon's exile — Maubreuil's design — Napoleon's 
 journey to Elba — Museum — Claude Holard — M. Larabit - 
 Souvenirs of the Emperor — His library — Expedition to Marciana 
 — Visit of lady and child to Napoleon — Speculations as to their 
 identity. 
 
 As I have said before, I took frequent journeys 
 to Italy. I went there for my usual two months' 
 leave shortly after my return to England, and 
 again in 1854, when, in consequence of an attack 
 that affected my eyes, owing to writing late at 
 night, I was ordered complete rest. I therefore 
 went with my family to Elba, a place I had long 
 wished to visit as being one of the few, connected 
 with the history of Napoleon, which had not been 
 ransacked. It certainly contained, within its narrow 
 limits, a great variety of interesting features. 
 
 By the Treaty of Fontainebleau, Elba had been 
 allotted to Napoleon as a sovereignty, and it was 
 of his own choice, for Corfu and Corsica had also 
 been proposed to him. At Elba he found, as 
 Lamartine has said, "the horizon, the sky, the 
 air, the waves of his childhood." It was full of 
 historic associations, and it was here he elected to 
 
 217
 
 218 MAUBREUIL ch. 
 
 stay with such of his followers as saw fit to remain 
 faithful to him. 
 
 On his way to the South, an incident occurred 
 which was an unhappy prelude to this period of 
 practical imprisonment. A man named Maubreuil, 
 one of the Household of the Queen of West- 
 phalia, was furnished with extraordinary powers 
 for an object suspected but never avowed. The 
 Minister of Police placed his services at the 
 command of Maubreuil, as did the Minister of 
 War, who gave similar orders to his troops, while 
 ■Generals Sacken and Brockenhausen gave strict 
 directions that Maubreuil should be obeyed, and 
 in the manner he should require. There can be 
 little doubt that it was intended to make away 
 with the Emperor ; but he was saved by the fidelity 
 of some of the Commissioners attached to him. 
 Strange to say, at the time of the Congress of 
 Paris in 1856, an application was made by a man, 
 who signed himself Maubreuil, for pecuniary assist- 
 ance from the Allied Powers. He stated that the 
 circumstances of his secret mission in 1814 were 
 known to their respective Governments. The 
 existence of this application was communicated to 
 the representatives of those Powers ; but no notice 
 apparently was outwardly paid to it, though it was 
 generally believed that means were taken to satisfy 
 him. 
 
 On April 27, Napoleon arrived at Frejus with 
 his sister, the Princess Pauline, and embarked on 
 the Undaunted for his new dominion. On leaving;
 
 xix CLAUDE HOLARD 219 
 
 France he observed, " II iiy a que les mo?~ts qui ne 
 reviennent pas." On the morning of the 1st of May, 
 the Undaunted fell in with two or three English 
 ships, detached to occupy Bastia and Calvi, and 
 the officers were astonished at the amount of 
 general knowledge which the Emperor displayed. 
 
 At Elba I found that many of the interesting 
 relics of Napoleon had been collected in a museum 
 at San Martino, belonging to Prince Demidoff, 
 the husband of the Princess Matilde Bonaparte. By 
 his orders, no strangers were allowed to visit the 
 museum, which had been the favourite residence 
 of the Emperor. It appeared that the Prince had 
 forbidden all access to the collection, on account of 
 some remarks made by the Independance Beige. 
 
 On our visit we came across M. Holard, who 
 had been gardener to the Emperor. He had sub- 
 mitted to Napoleon the sacrifices he had made 
 in his service, and was named gardener to the 
 Emperors sister, Princess Elise of Piombino, after- 
 wards Grand Duchess of Tuscany. In 1814, circum- 
 stances had forced him to leave that employment. 
 The Emperor then appointed him director of the 
 Imperial gardens, both at Porto Ferrajo and on the 
 neighbouring island of Pianosa. He was employed 
 at the palace of Malmaison during the Hundred 
 Days, and he and his wife both endeavoured to 
 follow the Emperor to St. Helena. Unable to do 
 this, they returned to Piombino to live on a small 
 property given them by the Princess. Holard was 
 recommended by the Duke of Wellington to Lord
 
 220 DESERVING PENSIONER oh. 
 
 Burghersh, afterwards Minister at Florence. Un- 
 fortunately, he found his property had been con- 
 fiscated, and for some time was reduced to great 
 straits. Prince DemidofF, however, engaged him 
 as gardener at San Martino, where he would have 
 been happy but for the somewhat oppressive 
 character of Prince Demidoff's agent in the 
 island. 
 
 I had some correspondence with Claude Holard 
 after I left Elba, and I now have in my possession 
 four letters from him, which, however, are rather 
 difficult to read. I am happy to say that by the 
 representations I made to Count Walewski — then 
 Ambassador in London — I succeeded in bringing 
 M. Holard's case before the Emperor Napoleon 
 III., who gave him and his wife a pension for life. 
 
 I received from Count Walewski the two follow- 
 ing letters respecting poor Holard. The first is 
 dated March 2, 1855, from Albert Gate House : — 
 
 I thank you for having thought of sending me the por- 
 trait of the old gardener in the island of Elba. I shall 
 hasten to take the first opportunity of obtaining for him 
 the kindness of the Emperor. Your account of the island is 
 certainly of a nature to excite the interest of His Majesty in 
 favour of Claude Holard. 
 
 Another, of the 18th of June, is written from the 
 Foreign Office at Paris : — 
 
 I have just received the letter which you did me the 
 honour to write on the 12th of last month. I have had 
 great pleasure in helping to smooth the lot of Claude 
 Holard, and instructing the Consular Agent of France at 
 Porto Ferrajo to place pecuniary assistance at his disposal.
 
 xix DISTINGUISHED COMPANION 221 
 
 Elba was full of souvenirs of the Emperor. 
 On the steamer going to Porto Ferrajo, we met 
 M. Larabit, a French senator. Forty years pre- 
 viously, he had passed ten months at Elba as the 
 only officer of Engineers attached to the miniature 
 army of Napoleon. During that period, he had 
 been entrusted with the construction of all the 
 works undertaken in the island, and, having accom- 
 panied the Emperor on his return, he had witnessed 
 most of the occurrences of the Hundred Days. 
 Since then he had risen to distinction. As a 
 Deputy under Louis Philippe, he was most active 
 in the preservation of all connected with the First 
 Empire, and under Napoleon III. his services had 
 been rewarded by his nomination to the dignity of 
 Senator. With these recollections, his journey to 
 the island created no slight sensation amongst his 
 fellow - passengers and on the island itself, and I 
 need not say how fortunate I was in finding so 
 valuable a companion. 
 
 In order to reach the Governor's house, 
 formerly the only palace of Napoleon, it is 
 necessary to ascend one of the streets of stairs, 
 similar to those for which Malta is celebrated. 
 The resemblance may have been intentional, as 
 Cosmo I., the founder of the city, had destined 
 the island for the residence of the Order of 
 St. Stephen, which existed in modern times as 
 the principal decoration of Tuscany, on the same 
 footing and with the same purposes as the Knights 
 of Malta. The house itself is a small building, the
 
 222 THE EMPERORS RESIDENCE ch. 
 
 best perhaps in the town, but barely large enough 
 to contain the family of a gentleman of moderate 
 fortune. Here the Emperor resided with his sister, 
 whose bust is almost all that remains to recall the 
 illustrious inhabitants. In a garden at the back of 
 the house is the flagged walk, bordered by a small 
 parapet, where the Emperor used to take exercise, 
 walking rapidly up and down, or looking through 
 the telescope in hopes of some arrival. The room 
 then used as a sitting - room by the Governor 
 had been occupied by the Emperor as a bedroom, 
 and the spot where he was shaved was pointed 
 out. The marks of his horse's hoofs still remained 
 on some bituminous pavement where they were 
 made by a fall down two steps. The place where 
 the Emperor played with his favourite monkey 
 was also to be seen, and the words he used, 
 " Jenar, mon pauvi~e Jenar" were well remembered 
 and frequently quoted to visitors by the inhabitants 
 of Porto Ferrajo. 
 
 A small library of about eleven hundred volumes 
 had been left, consisting principally of military 
 and historical works, a set of Moniteurs bound up, 
 translations of Latin and Greek classic authors, 
 and occasionally some lighter productions ; amongst 
 others, elementary works on botany, mineralogy, 
 and other branches of natural philosophy, procured 
 evidently with a view to becoming acquainted with 
 the products of the island, which seems designed 
 from its extensive and even at times incongruous 
 collection for studies of this nature. Some of the
 
 XIX 
 
 MARCIANA 223 
 
 volumes bore marginal notes in the Emperor's own 
 handwriting. He had also thought of studying 
 English, and requested Sir Neil Campbell to pro- 
 cure him a grammar. There were two French 
 grammars of English in coarse paper covers, labelled 
 with a rough cipher " N " pasted on the back ; but 
 the leaves were mostly uncut. The only volume 
 that he seems to have perused in this study was a 
 dull moral work, in which the original English was 
 placed side by side with the French translation. 
 The book bore two titles — The Hundred Thoughts 
 of a Young Lady and Cent Pensees d'une Jeune 
 Anglaise — and purported to have been written by 
 « Mistress Gillet." 
 
 One of our excursions was to a place called 
 Marciana, where, as usual, we were entertained 
 by a gentleman resident in a richly furnished 
 apartment, consisting of a sitting-room and bed- 
 room, such as is kept in every house at Marciana 
 for purposes of hospitality. We heard the story, 
 mentioned in all the memoirs, of the visit of a lady 
 with a child, supposed by the islanders to have 
 been the Empress. Our host related the circum- 
 stances of the visit, and also the reasons which led 
 him to believe that the lady in question was no 
 other than the Empress Marie-Louise. 
 
 In the beginning of August 1814, a Polish or 
 German colonel, whose name does not transpire, 
 arrived at Elba, and was immediately received by 
 the Emperor, then living at Marciana. Marie- 
 Louise was at that time residing at Aix, in Savoy.
 
 224 MYSTERIOUS VISITORS oh. 
 
 The colonel remained only a few days, and then 
 went away. Not long after this a Genoese felucca, 
 the interior of which was fitted up in a luxurious 
 manner, arrived at Porto Ferrajo, bringing a lady, 
 a little boy, and the aforesaid colonel. In the 
 course of the day of their arrival, the Emperor, 
 accompanied by General Bertrand, Captain Baillon 
 and my informant, started on horseback as though 
 for San Martino. Arrived at the cross-roads to 
 San Martino and Marciana, the Emperor, con- 
 tinuing his route to the former place with General 
 Bertrand, ordered his two other followers to wait 
 at this spot for a carriage that would soon pass, 
 and to desire the coachman not to proceed farther 
 till His Majesty's return. On his leaving, Captain 
 Baillon said to his companion, " Voila, nous avons 
 I ' Imperatrice a Tile cTElbe ! " 
 
 They had not to wait long for the Emperor, 
 who, on riding up, entered the carriage, while 
 General Bertrand was observed to speak to the 
 lady with marks of extraordinary respect. On 
 arriving at Procchio, the party took boat for 
 Marciana Marina, whence they proceeded to the 
 Madonna of Marciana, a hermitage of celebrity, 
 situated on one of the highest granite peaks, where 
 tents were provided for their accommodation, the 
 Captain being desired by the Emperor to give 
 a bed in his own house to the Polish colonel — 
 a command with which he complied, no doubt 
 delighted at having an opportunity of displaying 
 his cordial hospitality.
 
 xix A WRONG CONCLUSION 225 
 
 The following day, as the child was playing 
 about under the chestnut-trees, the Emperor came 
 up to Doctor Fourreau, who was in conversation 
 with the Captain, and asked him what he thought 
 of the child. The Doctor answered, " He appears 
 to be much grown since I had the honour of seeing 
 him at Fontainebleau." The Captain was not sure 
 whether he heard the words Sa Majeste applied 
 to the child ; but his answer was evidently dis- 
 pleasing to the Emperor, who answered abruptly, 
 " Qiiest-ce que nous chantez done?" and turned 
 away, leaving the poor Doctor almost in tears, and 
 in a state only to be understood by those attendants 
 who unfortunately fell under their masters dis- 
 pleasure. Turning round to the Captain, he said, 
 " How could I be expected to know that I was to 
 be secret ? A man has not the power of divination 
 of a God." 
 
 These circumstances naturally provoked specula- 
 tion, and the Captain asserted that the pictures he 
 had seen of the Empress and the King of Rome 
 resembled the lady and her son, and that the age 
 of the latter tallied with that of the King. He 
 was therefore induced to form the conclusion, which 
 nothing could alter. The Emperor, however, seeing 
 that the Captain had observed that the child called 
 him " Papa," asked him what the Elbans thought 
 of his visitors. The Captain answered, " They 
 think that Elba is honoured with the presence of 
 the Empress and of your Majesty's son." The 
 Emperor rejoined, " He may well be my son, and 
 
 vol. i Q
 
 226 THE EMPEROR'S SON ch xix 
 
 yet not the King of Rome." After this the 
 Captain observed that the suite of the Emperor 
 avoided all conversation on the matter, no doubt 
 having received orders to that effect. 
 
 In opposition to this evidence, I must state that 
 a person who saw the child declared to me that he 
 was not the King of Rome, whom she had also 
 seen ; and that a gentleman stationed at Malta in 
 1814-15 informed me that it was from that island 
 that the lady, whoever she may have been, started 
 on her visit to the Emperor at Elba. I subse- 
 quently became acquainted with a distinguished 
 diplomatist who avowed to me indirectly that he 
 was the child in question.
 
 CHAPTER XX 
 
 Work at Foreign Office — Amateur pantomime — Treaty of Paris — Visit 
 to France — Parisian society — Terms of Treaty — Diplomatic 
 acquaintances — Competitive examinations — Anecdotes — Friends 
 in London — The Time* and Repeal of Corn Laws — Other 
 acquaintances. 
 
 On my return to London I resumed my duties 
 at the Foreign Office. These were rather more 
 difficult, owing to the illness of certain of the elder 
 members who were completely upset by work. 
 
 At the beginning of 1855, the amateur panto- 
 mime, to which I have previously alluded, took 
 place. It would be interesting to introduce the 
 play-bill, but, unfortunately, I cannot find one. 1 
 have in my possession another play-bill, however, 
 of the same performance by the same company, 
 but given on another occasion. It was called 
 " Harlequin Guy Fawkes, or, A Match for a 
 King!" The Prologue promised to introduce "an 
 Original, Esoteric, ^Esthetic, Historical, Highly- 
 personal and Personally-dangerous, Intellectually- 
 physical, Musical, Acrobatic, Terpsichorean, Well- 
 meant but Exceedingly rash attempt to perform a 
 pantomime." I believe the Prologue was written 
 by Mr. Torn Taylor. 
 
 227
 
 228 AMATEUR PANTOMIME oil 
 
 It was announced that the Capillary Attractions 
 were by Mr. Wilson. 
 
 The play-bill is too long to be introduced here, 
 but I may perhaps give the plot as summarised at 
 the beginning : — 
 
 First, how Catesby wished to save : Monteagle from an 
 airy grave. How, before their coming quarrels : Fawkes 
 and Catesby placed the barrels. (Not of the Lynn or Yar- 
 mouth school : but kindly lent by Mr. Rule), because Guy 
 Fawkes declared that century : should see the first Train 
 Parliamentary. How, whilst Fawkes sought his evening 
 beer : Monteagle came in feeble fear. And how by Catesby 
 being chidden : was by him 'neath the barrels hidden. How, 
 in a serious long palaver : Fawkes found that Catesby seem'd 
 to waver. How each determined, in a duel : the other should 
 procure his gruel : (A " Desperate Combat , " of the age : 
 when Hicks adoriVd the Surrey Stage). How beaten Fawkes 
 essay'd to bolt : but was restraint by Catesby's " Colt. 11 
 How Astaroth claimed Fawkes, and seized him : and how a 
 Fairy good releas'd him. And how, amidst recrimination : 
 they all came to the 
 
 TRANSFORMATION. 
 
 Lest they escape from Memory's cells : we name again these 
 active swells : 
 
 Harlequin — Signor Giovannini. 
 Columbine — Miss Rosina Wright. 
 Pantaloon — Mr. Hayward Heath. 
 Lover — Mr. Martin le Grand. 
 Clown — Little Hulme. 
 
 There were acrobats called the " Bounding 
 Bricks of Babylon," " engaged from the Arabian 
 Amphitheatre of Aleppo, at an unlimited expense. 
 Money has been no object with the proprietors of
 
 xx AN ORIGINAL PLAY-BILL 229 
 
 this Exhibition to present an entertainment to 
 their patrons uniting Classical Beauty of Figure 
 with that Herculean Muscularity and Flibberti- 
 gibbet-like Flexibility only known to the Children 
 of the Desert." Their names were printed in 
 characters apparently Arabic. 
 
 The end of the play was described as a " Chorus 
 of Congratulation and Dance of Delight that it's 
 all over (which the Audience will, in all prob- 
 ability, reciprocate ; indeed, it will be unlike every 
 other Amateur Performance if they do not)." 
 
 A note at the foot of the play -bill remarked : 
 " As these Bills will not be sold until the Audience 
 is in the house, there is no occasion to state what 
 time the doors open; and as all the Tickets are 
 already paid for, information as to the price of the 
 places is equally superfluous." 
 
 Communications were to be addressed to 
 Edmund Yates, Arthur Smith, or William Hale, 
 Esqs., Fielding Club, Maiden Lane, Strand. 
 
 The principal characters were : — 
 
 Harlequin — John Bidwell. 
 Pantaloon — Arthur Smith. 
 Clo-ivn — Joe Robins. 
 Columbine — Rosina Wright. 
 Lover — Edmund Yates. 
 
 In the performance previous to the pantomime, 
 T. K. Holmes, Albert Smith, Billy Hale, lbbetson, 
 Langford, O'Dowd, and Morgan J. O'Connell took 
 part. 
 
 That same year, Lord John Russell was sent on
 
 230 TREATY OF PARIS ch. 
 
 a Special Mission to Vienna, with the view, if 
 possible, of concerting with the Austrian Govern- 
 ment some means of securing peace. He was 
 accompanied by Mr. Hammond, but returned 
 without achieving the object of his mission. 
 
 Shortly afterwards the Queen and the Prince 
 Consort paid a visit to the Emperor and the 
 Empress of the French, during which, no doubt, 
 every method of promoting peace was seriously 
 discussed, as Her Majesty was accompanied by 
 Lord Clarendon. Whatever may have been the 
 conversation at the meeting, peace very soon loomed 
 in the near future. Austria stepped in, and it was 
 said that she was prepared to join the Allies, if 
 Russia rejected reasonable terms. 
 
 In 1856 the Conference was held at Paris, in 
 which Lord Clarendon took part, and the Treaty of 
 Peace was signed on the 30th of March in that year. 
 The news was made public by the following 
 announcements in the London Gazette Extra- 
 ordinary. 
 
 Foreign Office, March 31, 1856. 
 
 A despatch has been this morning received from the Earl 
 of Clarendon, Her Majesty's Principal Secretary of State 
 for Foreign Affairs, dated Paris, March 30, announcing 
 the Signature of Peace, at two o'clock on that day, at the 
 Foreign Office, in Paris. 
 
 The Plenipotentiaries of Great Britain, of Austria, of 
 France, of Prussia, of Russia, of Sardinia, and of Turkey, 
 have affixed their signatures to the Treaty which puts an 
 end to the War ; and which, while definitively settling the 
 Eastern question, establishes the tranquillity of Europe on 
 solid and durable bases.
 
 xx MADAME GOULD 231 
 
 The exchange of the ratifications will take place at Paris in 
 four weeks, or sooner if possible ; until that time the stipu- 
 lations of the Treaty cannot be made public. 
 
 Foreign Office, March 31, 1856. 
 The Honourable Spencer Ponsonby arrived at the Foreign 
 Office this morning from Paris, with the Definitive Treaty 
 for the Restoration of Peace, and for the maintenance of the 
 integrity and independence of the Ottoman Empire, which 
 was yesterday signed at Paris by the Plenipotentiaries of 
 Her Majesty, of the Emperor of the French, of the King 
 of Sardinia, and of the Sultan, and also of the Emperor of 
 Austria and of the King of Prussia, on the one part, and of 
 the Emperor of all the Russias on the other. 
 
 Shortly after the signature I went to Paris, 
 and stopped at the Louvre, where Mr. Spencer 
 Ponsonby and all the Mission sent to the Con- 
 gress were also staying. 
 
 I dined with Lord and Lady Holland, and there 
 met Count Cavour, the Sardinian Minister and 
 Plenipotentiary. He was a mild man, who wore 
 spectacles, and seemed anxious for information. I 
 also met a lady known as Madame Gould, the wife 
 of a Portuguese merchant, but an Englishwoman. 
 She had been, in early life, a friend of Madame 
 Montijo, and had chaperoned the Empress about 
 Paris before her marriage. It was said that it had 
 been by her advice that Napoleon III. was per- 
 suaded to propose to the Empress. The result was 
 that Madame Gould became one of the most 
 influential persons about the Court. She was a 
 very kind and amiable woman, the mother of two 
 or three sons, one of whom entered diplomacy and 
 ended by being Minister, I think, in Servia.
 
 232 DETAILS OF THE TREATY ch. 
 
 At the same party I met Madame Montijo, the 
 Empress' mother, and with her I had a long con- 
 versation about Madrid. Narvaez was also there, 
 and the Duchess of Alba, grandmother of the 
 present Duke, and sister to Madame Montijo. 
 Miss Sneyd was there, too, a great beauty, who 
 had " come out " at Paris under the chaperonage 
 of Madame Gould. She afterwards married Mr. 
 — later Sir George — Petre. 
 
 About this time a very curious thing occurred, 
 in the sudden resignation of Mr. Henry Howard, 
 appointed Minister at Florence. He had been 
 married to Miss Mactavish, a well-known American 
 beauty. Both Mr. and Mrs. Howard had long 
 been known favourably in Parisian society. 
 
 It appeared in conversation that Lord Clarendon 
 was not satisfied with Count Walewski, the French 
 Plenipotentiary, nor with the Emperor of the 
 French, who was said to have partly opposed and 
 partly supported Count Walewski. Lord Clarendon 
 was supposed to have insisted on some wrong 
 points. When, however, he did insist, the 
 Emperor gave way. Napoleon III. wished to 
 yield on the question of the frontiers ; but the 
 British Plenipotentiary carried his point, as he did 
 those of the appointment of consuls, the Aland 
 Islands, and the neutralisation of the Black Sea. 
 No men-of-war of any nation were to be allowed 
 entrance, except those of the riverain powers. As 
 to Nicolaiev, it was not touched : there was only a 
 promise that ships of war should not be built there.
 
 xx LORD LYTTON'S PUN 233 
 
 In fact, on looking over old papers regarding the 
 negotiations, I conclude that we had to fight very 
 hard for our position, and that we were chiefly 
 successful when Lord Palmerston himself took 
 questions in hand. 
 
 I had to go to Marseilles, and there I met 
 Mr. March, from the Librarian's Department of 
 the Foreign Office. He was a brother of the 
 gentleman so well known on the Continent as the 
 principino, a wonderful linguist. Mr. March told 
 me the following story of Sir Edward Bulwer 
 Lytton. 
 
 A lady one day remarked to him how odd it 
 was that a dove (colombe) should have been sent to 
 find the old world, and that Columbus {Colojnbe) 
 should have found the new. Sir Edward replied, 
 " Yes, and the one came from Noah ; the other 
 from Genoa." 
 
 The Peace created no great sensation. The 
 Sun, however, appeared witli black lines between 
 the columns, as a sign of mourning, and made a 
 violent attack on pacific measures. 
 
 About that time I saw a good deal of Sir 
 Edward Monson, who was rather my junior. He 
 had taken a First Class in Modern History at 
 Oxford, and had just been appointed attache at 
 Paris. I also met Mr. Dillon there : he is now 
 Lord Clonbrock. At the same time I saw a good 
 deal of a third young diplomatist, Mr. Wodehouse, a 
 brother of the Under- Secretary of State for Foreign 
 Affairs. Mr. Wodehouse had just been appointed
 
 234 COMPETITIVE EXAMINATIONS oh. 
 
 to Vienna, and Mr. Dillon to Washington. Mr. 
 Wodehouse died young. 
 
 Lord Palmerston was at that time given the 
 Garter. He was the first member of the House 
 of Commons who had received that honour since 
 Lord Castlereagh. It was said that this order 
 was the one ambition of the great Sir Robert 
 Peel. The simple title of knighthood for the 
 Garter was assumed the last time by Sir Robert 
 VValpole. 
 
 During the Crimean War, notice had been 
 called to several administrative failures. A great 
 stir was made about it in Parliament by Mr. 
 Layard, Sir Arthur Otway, and others, and a society 
 was created for the purpose of what was called 
 administrative reform. It was then that examina- 
 tions for the Civil Service were introduced, limited 
 at first in their requirements, yet the foundation 
 of the system which is now universal. The move- 
 ment was very general, and gave rise to public 
 meetings all over the country. 
 
 Amusing anecdotes were told of the first 
 examinations, which were naturally made easy, 
 as no preparation was possible for so new an in- 
 stitution, and as officers were urgently required 
 for the army. 
 
 A gentleman, who was the godson of Lord 
 Adolphus FitzClarence, was examined for one of 
 the regiments of Guards. One question asked him 
 was, " Who was the greatest military commander 
 of modern times?" to which he replied, "The
 
 xx HIS OWN POINT OF VIEW 235 
 
 Duke of Wellington." This was naturally satis- 
 factory. 
 
 He was then asked, " Who was the greatest 
 naval commander of modern times ? ' To this 
 he replied, " Opinions differ, but in mine, my 
 godfather Dolly FitzClarence is as good as any 
 of them ! " 
 
 Though not sufficiently precise, the young man 
 got through. 
 
 About this time I met a gentleman who was a 
 great contractor for coals, and for some reason or 
 other — I suppose I had been civil to him abroad — 
 he asked me to dine at his club. 
 
 He told me that he was a great student of 
 prophecy, and that he believed the following would 
 shortly be fulfilled : — 
 
 And I will bring again the captivity of my people of 
 Israel, and they shall build the waste cities, and inhabit 
 them ; and they shall plant vineyards, and drink the wine 
 thereof; they also shall make gardens, and eat the fruit of 
 them. 
 
 He believed that Palestine would be emanci- 
 pated. " And," he added, " I am told that there 
 are some very valuable deposits of coal in the 
 Holy Land." 
 
 This reminds me of an incident which shows 
 how every one is inclined to look at things simply 
 from his own point of view. 
 
 In a town where I was at school a new clergy- 
 man had just arrived. The hairdresser came on a 
 certain day to cut the boys' hair, and was asked
 
 236 NICKNAMES ch. 
 
 what he thought of the vicar. His only reply was, 
 " Very poor head o' hair, sir." 
 
 I remember a very popular gentleman who was 
 in the House of Commons at the same time as 
 myself. His popularity was proved by his always 
 being called by a nickname. This I believe to be 
 an infallible test. A man who is usually called 
 Tom, Dick, or Jack is invariably a favourite. 
 This gentleman — whose name, let us say, was 
 Jack Hillier — was very dangerously ill, and many 
 members of the House constantly enquired after 
 his health at his residence in the north of London. 
 One morning I happened to call upon one of our 
 AVhips, who asked, "Do you know how poor 
 Jack Hillier is ? " 
 
 I said, " I called last night. They told me he 
 was very bad."' 
 
 The Whip replied, " Poor Jack ! I am very 
 anxious about him. He only got in by seven 
 votes." 
 
 During the time I was in the Foreign Office, I 
 naturally made a great many acquaintances, many 
 of whom I have already mentioned ; but there 
 were some who became my friends as I went on in 
 experience, and whom I shall always recollect. 
 Mr. John Delane, the editor of the 7 y imes, was 
 exceedingly kind to me. I was introduced to him 
 by Sir John Burgoyne. He had a homelike, old- 
 fashioned, panelled house — 16 Serjeants' Inn. Here 
 he used to give most agreeable dinners, and there 
 came Mr. Bernal Osborne, Mr. Lowe, and the
 
 xx REPEAL OF THE CORN LAWS 237 
 
 most amusing people in London. On one occasion 
 we were talking of a member of the Government 
 supposed to be a great failure. Some one said, 
 "They want to make him a peer." Mr. Lowe 
 retorted, "No, they want to make him disappear." 
 
 I had a friend much associated with Mr. Delane — 
 Mr. Bayley, the protagonist in an episode which is 
 still undecided. He was a writer in the Times, and 
 his articles were much appreciated. He told me 
 that one night, during the contest about the Repeal 
 of the Corn Laws, he had attended a meeting in 
 favour of the Repeal, and had been much struck 
 with the great enthusiasm shown by the Free 
 Trade section. Leaving the theatre where the 
 meeting was being held, he drove to the Times 
 office where he saw Mr. Delane, who was editor 
 at that time, the father of Mr. John Delane. Mr. 
 Bayley explained the reasons which made him 
 think it necessary to abandon the cause of Pro- 
 tection, which the Times had hitherto advocated, 
 and Mr. Delane instructed him to write an article 
 in the sense he pointed out. 
 
 There are other stories concerning the reason of 
 this change. Some say that a remarkable lady, in 
 the confidence of a Cabinet Minister, had heard 
 from him of the intention of Sir Robert Peel at 
 once to introduce a measure for repealing the 
 Corn Laws ; that she had driven down late to 
 inform Mr. Delane, and that this information, 
 immediately acted on, was the cause of the change. 
 Anyway, I believe Mr. Bayley was the writer
 
 238 FRIENDS IN LONDON ch. xx 
 
 of the article. Later he became a Colonial 
 Governor. 
 
 I also knew Mr. Dasent, a brother-in-law of 
 Mr. Delane, a very able and acute writer, and 
 especially well known for his knowledge of Scandi- 
 navian literature. 
 
 Another brother - in - law was Mr. Mowbray 
 Morris, the business manager of the paper. By his 
 judicious selection of writers and correspondents, 
 he had contributed to achieve for the Times 
 the vast influence it has since possessed. 
 
 I was invited occasionally to the meetings of a 
 society in the Temple, called the Dodeka, at the 
 head of which was a writer of great eminence on 
 the Times, Mr. Wingrove Cook, with Mr. Hans 
 Busk, who took a very active part in the pro- 
 motion of the Rifle Volunteers, and Mr. Bates 
 Richards. The last had married a beautiful Italian 
 lady, generally known as Mrs. Gaggiotti Richards, 
 who came from Ancona, where I subsequently 
 met her. 
 
 A gentleman named Vaux, who was, I think, 
 employed at the British Museum, used also to 
 have regular weekly parties of literary men, and 
 attendance at these various gatherings was both 
 interesting and instructive.
 
 CHAPTER XXI 
 
 Special Mission to Brussels — Reception of Lord Westmorland— Pre- 
 parations for the fetes — Audience of the King — Society in 
 Brussels — Royal visitors — Ceremony of congratulation — Enter- 
 tainments — Orderliness of the Belgians — Banquet and opera — 
 Illuminations — Cavalcade representing the towns of Belgium- 
 Visit to Bruges — King Leopold and Lord Westmorland — Belgian 
 Ministers — Interviews with King Leopold II. and the Comte de 
 Flandre — Despatch to Lord Clarendon. 
 
 In July 1856 I was appointed attache to a Special 
 Mission to Brussels. It was merely complimentary, 
 and sent to congratulate King Leopold on the 
 twenty -fifth anniversary of his accession to the 
 throne. The Envoy chosen was Lord Westmorland, 
 an old personal friend of the King, having been 
 with him, I believe, at Waterloo. 
 
 On the 19th of .Inly, Lord Westmorland was 
 received by the Vicomte Vilain XIIII. The 
 numeral was conferred on the Viscount's family as 
 a perpetual distinction by Louis XIV. His arms 
 are, I believe, fourteen castles, the capture of which 
 also earned him the distinction. Lord Westmor- 
 land, together with Lord Howard de Walden, Her 
 Majesty's Permanent Minister at Brussels, called 
 on the Belgian Cabinet Ministers and dined after- 
 wards witli Lord Howard. At the dinner were 
 
 239
 
 240 MISSION TO BRUSSELS ch. 
 
 present : Viscount Vilain XIIIL, Baron de Brock- 
 hausen, the Prussian Envoy, also an old friend of 
 Lord Westmorland's, Mr. Barron and Mr. Johnston, 
 attaches to the Legation, and myself. 
 
 Preparations were on a very grand scale. Cars 
 were constructed for a great historical cortege, each 
 representing a separate province. They filled a 
 whole street, which had been covered in as a 
 coach-house for them. Triumphal arches were 
 erected everywhere, with flags, scutcheons, and 
 ornaments, and the whole town was illuminated. 
 Never was a king so popular, or a people so ready 
 to celebrate the virtues of their sovereign. 
 
 Lord Westmorland's son, Lord Burghersh, was 
 also attached to this Mission. He had only re- 
 cently returned from the Crimea, where he had 
 greatly distinguished himself. 
 
 On the 20th of July, Lord Westmorland re- 
 paired to the Palace in a royal coach to present 
 to the King his letters of credence. This he did, 
 accompanying the letter with a speech expressive of 
 the attachment and esteem in which the sovereign 
 and people of Belgium were held by the sovereign 
 and people of Great Britain. His Majesty appeared 
 deeply affected during the delivery of the address, 
 frequently interrupting Lord Westmorland with 
 remarks of pleasure and gratification. In reply, 
 His Majesty expressed his sense of acknowledg- 
 ment of the language in which Lord Westmorland 
 had conveyed the feelings of his sovereign and his 
 country. He declared his affection and admiration
 
 xxi DISTINGUISHED VISITORS 241 
 
 for Great Britain, saying that there he had on 
 every occasion been treated with justice. He 
 concluded by welcoming Lord Westmorland cor- 
 dially and affectionately, alluding to the long 
 period of their acquaintance. Subsequently the 
 Special Mission dined with Lord Howard de 
 Walden, meeting M. and Mme. Van de Weyer, 
 Colonel White, and Mr. Harris. Colonel White 
 was a distinguished author, and had written a 
 novel called, if I recollect aright, Almack's Revisited. 
 He was generally known as " Huffy White," for 
 what reason I cannot tell. Mr. Harris, whom I had 
 known before, had been abroad for a long time, 
 and for a certain period had been a Chamberlain to 
 King Charles Albert. I also had the opportunity 
 of again seeing M. and Mme. Adolphe Barrot. He 
 was the brother of the celebrated Odillon Barrot, 
 and was French Minister at Brussels. I had met 
 him formerly in London at the house of Mr. 
 Disraeli, and again renewed my acquaintance with 
 him when he became French Minister at Naples. 
 
 During the whole of Lord Westmorland's stay, 
 the King treated him with the greatest distinc- 
 tion, not allowing him to join the ordinary corps 
 diplomatique, but giving him a place among the 
 Royal Princes who had come for the occasion 
 — amongst others, the Duke of Saxe-Coburg and 
 Prince George of Saxony. During the week, 
 Queen Augusta of Prussia — afterwards the German 
 Empress — paid a visit to the King, and I had the 
 honour of being presented to her. 
 
 VOL. i u
 
 242 TE BEUM ch. 
 
 The solemnities were magnificent. Opposite 
 the entrance to the Place St. Joseph was erected 
 a canopy for the King and the Royal Family, 
 reached by many steps, draped with red and 
 gold, and supported by columns formed of gigantic 
 figures. On the right of the Square was a church, 
 in front of which a large platform contained 
 hundreds of the clergy in white surplices. Opposite 
 was an altar for the celebration of the Mass. The 
 King, with his suite, dismounted at the entrance to 
 the Square and proceeded on foot to the gallery. 
 Then he advanced to a transverse street for the 
 purpose of receiving the Duchess of Brabant and 
 Princess Charlotte. Their beauty called forth the 
 most enthusiastic admiration. The King took his 
 seat in front of the canopy. On his right was 
 the Duchess of Brabant, on the left his daughter ; 
 near the Duchess, the Duke of Coburg ; near the 
 Princess, the Prince of Saxony ; at either end the 
 two Belgian Princes, The semicircle was com- 
 pleted on the right by Lord Westmorland, Count 
 Mensdorff, who was related to the King, and the 
 gentlemen of the foreign suites ; on the left by the 
 Belgian Household. Behind the King were the 
 members of the Diplomatic Body. 
 
 The Presidents of the Legislative Chambers 
 read addresses of congratulation, to which His 
 Majesty replied ; then followed a Te Deum, com- 
 posed for the occasion by the celebrated musician, 
 M. Fetis. After this, a procession defiled before 
 the throne of deputations from the regiments of
 
 xxi FESTIVITIES 243 
 
 the Belgian army, from the clergy, the univer- 
 sities, schools, tribunals, and trades, and from all 
 the towns and villages in Belgium, screaming and 
 shouting, while the drums were beating and the 
 bands played the National Anthem. 
 
 This over, His Majesty descended, proceeding to 
 the Palace on foot, accompanied by his Court, and 
 halting for a few moments to confer with the 
 Cardinal. 
 
 The order was perfect, the public acclamations 
 spontaneous, and the weather splendid. The King 
 repaired to the Palace, where he was serenaded and 
 rapturously applauded when seen from the balcony 
 by the crowd ; but never more so than on one 
 occasion when seen standing between Lord West- 
 morland and Lord Burghersh. 
 
 In the evening a banquet was given by the 
 Chambers. The staircase was decorated with a 
 profusion of flowers, and the temporary saloon 
 displayed a brilliant appearance. After dinner the 
 King's health was proposed and received with 
 lively enthusiasm. The King then repaired to 
 some public gardens called Waux Hall, where 
 the crowd and the manner of his reception 
 were of the same nature as those already ex- 
 perienced. 
 
 During the day the weather was fine. On 
 Sunday it had been rainy and gloomy, and appre- 
 hensions were entertained that the state of the 
 weather would disturb the splendid and costly 
 arrangements. But the sun appeared when the
 
 244 ORDER IN BELGIUM ch. 
 
 King entered the Place St. Joseph, and the weather 
 was fine, though cold, during the day. 
 
 On the 22nd, the festivities were begun by a 
 serenade, followed by a review. Lord Westmor- 
 land and his son accompanied the King on horse- 
 back. Bv the kindness of Count Marnix, the 
 Grand Marshal, I was placed in a window of the 
 Palace, together with M. and Mme. Van de 
 Weyer. 
 
 While conversing on the spirit of order per- 
 vading the Belgian populace and their respect for 
 the law, M. Van de Weyer related an illustrative 
 anecdote of some interest. On one occasion, at 
 the commencement of the Revolution, there was 
 some fighting going on in the Park. The Belgians 
 found themselves running short of powder. Orders 
 were immediately given for supplies, and some 
 barrels were sent round by a road in the rear of 
 the fighting. The Belgians from the town watched 
 earnestly for the arrival of their powder to assist 
 the belligerents, and became alarmed when some 
 time had elapsed without its appearance. At 
 length some of the leading men determined on 
 going round themselves with a party, in case an 
 attack had been made by the Dutch. On their 
 arrival, however, they found the convoy delayed 
 by one man with a white night-cap and the two 
 words "La barriered Thus 280 men were stop- 
 ping each to pay his two and a half sous before 
 proceeding to engage. 
 
 In the evening Lord Westmorland and his
 
 xxi ILLUMINATIONS 245 
 
 Mission had the honour of dining with the King. 
 They sat at the King's table, there being two 
 other tables presided over by the Princes. The 
 dinner was given to the superior officers of the 
 Army. 
 
 As a proof of the great popularity of the King, 
 an officer related that in a detachment of his 
 regiment, garrisoned in Hainault, the men had 
 by their own spontaneous act subscribed 1500 
 francs towards illuminations. 
 
 The Mission afterwards accompanied the King 
 to the gala spectacle at the Opera. A cantata 
 was sung, together with acts selected from several 
 celebrated operas. Later on, the Court drove 
 through the town to see the illuminations. Along 
 the boulevards and the Allee Verte we passed 
 through long avenues of illuminated festoons ; 
 clusters of Turkish lamps hung suspended in the 
 middle, and throughout the town there was an 
 uniformity of decoration that testified to the 
 unanimity of feeling, as well as to the good taste 
 of the Commission to whom was confided the task 
 of arranging the fetes. Some of the public build- 
 ings presented a wonderful spectacle, especially the 
 Hotel de Mile, where the whole of its celebrated 
 architectural design was traced in lamps. In the 
 course of the evening, Viscount Yilain XI 1 1 1, in- 
 formed the Mission that the King had been pleased 
 to decorate them. 
 
 The 2.'3rd of July was the last day of the fetes. 
 The sun rose magnificently — a cause of great
 
 246 HISTORICAL CAVALCADE oh. 
 
 rejoicing, as the festivities of this morning had for 
 some months occupied the attention and drawn 
 on the energies and generosity of the Belgian 
 people. At twelve o'clock the King received the 
 corps diplomatique, inviting them to stay to witness 
 the historical cavalcade that was to pass by the 
 windows of the Palace. This cavalcade consisted 
 of fifteen cars representing the different towns and 
 provinces of the kingdom. They were decorated 
 in a costly and even extravagant manner, but with 
 a taste so perfect that there was no appearance of 
 gewgaw or theatrical expedient. Some of the cars 
 were of enormous height, towering over the first- 
 floor windows of the Palace. It is impossible to 
 write a description of them in a rapid summary. 
 Each being distinguished by salient characteristics, 
 no comparison could be drawn. The cavalcade of 
 Bruges represented the First Chapter of the Golden 
 Fleece, and the industrial car of Liege, followed by 
 1200 Liegeois workmen, conveyed the most familiar 
 images to the English eye. One of these cars was 
 a complete battery, with guns in position and 
 cannon-balls stacked near them. There were also, 
 if I recollect aright, swords, pistols, and muskets. 
 In fact, it might have been a portion of a fortified 
 town. The general effect was equal to the care 
 bestowed on the detail. 
 
 From the balcony of the Palace the scene was 
 striking. The high green hedges and thick limes 
 of the Park, studded with flags and medallions 
 attached to gilt staves, formed a picturesque back-
 
 xxi LAST DAY OF THE FETES 247 
 
 ground. The space in front was wide. Looking 
 to the right the long cortege and the magnificent 
 cars wound round the front of the Prince of 
 Orange's palace, which was covered with spectators. 
 On it came, to appearance interminable, blending 
 the bright colours of the different groups. The 
 cars halted for a moment before the King, while 
 their predecessors turned under the arch at the 
 entrance of the Palais Royal. The brightness of 
 the day — calling to mind a southern climate — the 
 whiteness of the buildings, the vivid tints of the 
 verdure, the enthusiasm of the crowd, the music of 
 the orchestras, combined to produce a scene which 
 will perhaps never be rivalled. 
 
 Here was collected in the capital the whole 
 loyalty and attachment, and the great proportion 
 of the population, of the entire kingdom. When 
 one remembers that, with the exception of the 
 remission of railway fares, the pageant, of which 
 the cost must have been enormous, was provided 
 without any assistance from the Government, some 
 estimate may be formed of the intensity of feeling 
 existing in a practical and naturally rather phleg- 
 matic nation. 
 
 The King, in his great friendship for Lord 
 Westmorland, invited the Mission to accompany 
 him in his progress through the kingdom ; but this 
 invitation it was considered wise to limit to Bruges. 
 In that historical town the fetes were well adapted 
 to its past, and the same enthusiasm, governed by 
 the same order, was prevalent.
 
 248 THE HEIRESS OF BRUGES ch. 
 
 There was one beautiful ceremony which took 
 place in the Chapel of the Sacre Sang. The 
 illuminations were splendid, outlining the build- 
 ings, which, at Bruges, are very remarkable. My 
 former acquaintance with the town enabled me to 
 find an old circulating library, where I procured 
 a much -battered copy of G rattan's novel, The 
 Heiress of Bruges, a charming book. This I 
 obtained at the request of the Princess Charlotte 
 of Belgium, who was travelling with her father, 
 and whose later misfortunes as Empress of Mexico 
 constituted a great tragedy. We returned for a 
 day or two to Brussels, and then Lord Westmor- 
 land took leave of the King. 
 
 The conversations that took place between His 
 Majesty and Lord Westmorland were excessively 
 interesting, as both had been actors in the early 
 politics of the nineteenth century. Lord West- 
 morland had been nearly connected with the 
 Duke of Wellington, and all the incidents in 
 which the Duke took part were familiar to him. 
 In Chapter XIX. respecting Elba, it will have 
 been seen that Claude Holard was recommended 
 by the Duke to Lord Westmorland — then Lord 
 Burghersh — at that time Minister in Tuscany. 
 Lord Westmorland, who was a general in the 
 army as well as a diplomatist, was acquainted 
 with all the dramatis personce of the century, 
 and both the King and he spoke of them as 
 familiar friends. 
 
 1 had first known Lord Westmorland at Florence.
 
 xxi KING OF THE BELGIANS 249 
 
 He came there from Vienna, to which Court he 
 was then accredited. 
 
 Amongst the Ministers with whom we travelled, 
 I saw a good deal of Monsieur Deschamps, the 
 head of the Clerical Party, whose brother was a 
 Cardinal and Archbishop of Malines. He was 
 Prime Minister at that time. I also knew well 
 Monsieur Nothomb, who held a portfolio in the 
 same Cabinet. 
 
 I had many occasions of conversing with His 
 Majesty, who was excessively kind and open with 
 me. I was much struck by the common sense and 
 depth of his remarks on subjects both great and 
 small, and easily understood the position which he 
 then occupied as counsellor of most of the Govern- 
 ments of Europe. Later I met him one day in the 
 garden of St. James's Park. He at once stopped 
 me and spoke for some time on subjects of great 
 interest. 
 
 Since that time I have had frequent oppor- 
 tunities of seeing the present King of the Belgians, 
 as well as the Comte de Flandre, who, until his 
 death, was always exceedingly kind to me, inviting 
 me to his house in Brussels. The last time I had 
 the honour of seeing the present King was at 
 Madrid. He summoned me to his hotel, where 
 lie was living in a species of half incognito. 
 The reason of his sending for me was to give 
 me a letter for Queen Victoria, to whom he 
 told me he was in the habit of writing every 
 Sunday.
 
 250 ORDER OF LEOPOLD ch. 
 
 I think it may be interesting to add to this 
 summary the despatch addressed by Lord West- 
 morland at the time to Lord Clarendon : — 
 
 My Lord — I received a visit from Monsieur de Vilain 
 XIIIL, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, who stated that he 
 was commissioned by His Majesty King Leopold to announce 
 to me that he had named me a Knight Grand Cross of the 
 Belgian Order of Leopold, and that he had appointed my 
 son, Lord Burghersh, and Mr. Wolff to different grades of 
 the same Order. 
 
 I replied to Monsieur de Vilain XIIII. by the expression 
 of my most grateful acknowledgments to the King for 
 this most distinguished mark of his considerate favour, but 
 I also stated that I was enabled only to accept it under the 
 reserve of Her Majesty's approval, which, being subject to 
 established regulations, might be refused to me. Monsieur 
 de Vilain XIIII. replied that His Majesty was perfectly 
 cognisant of those regulations, but that he conceived the 
 peculiar nature of my Mission would be an exception to 
 them ; that these regulations had been set aside in the case 
 of the Duke of Devonshire when he attended the Coronation 
 at Moscow, and that other exceptions had since been made ; 
 but he believed that, the special Mission upon which I was 
 now employed being from the Queen to her Uncle, and upon 
 an occasion such as the present which never could occur 
 again, Her Majesty would grant the leave to accept and 
 wear his Order, to obtain which he should himself make a 
 most special application. 
 
 The next day I received the insignia of the Order, and I 
 afterwards waited upon His Majesty and expressed to him 
 my most sincere obligations and my gratitude for the high 
 honour he had conferred upon me, and which (if permitted 
 by Her Majesty) I should wear with the pride which it 
 merited as a signal proof of his favour. 
 
 His Majesty, in the most gratifying language, assured me 
 of the pleasure which he felt on being able to confer upon 
 me this proof of his esteem and affection, and assured me 
 that he would write with so much interest to Her Majesty
 
 xxi LADY JERSEY 251 
 
 the Queen for her permission that I might accept his 
 Order, that he felt satisfied he should obtain it. 
 
 Under these circumstances, I can only recommend myself 
 to Your Lordship's favour. In that recommendation I will 
 also beg to include my son, Lord Burghersh, and Mr. 
 Wolff, who are attached to my Mission. 
 
 After this Mission, Lord Westmorland intro- 
 duced me to his sister, Lady Jersey, who, like Lord 
 and Lady Westmorland, was always excessively 
 kind to me.
 
 CHAPTER XXII 
 
 Popular sympathy of House of Lords — Indian Mutiny — Fall of Lord 
 Palmerston's Government — Lord Derby's Administration — Private 
 Secretary to Lord Malmesbury — Sir Edward Lytton — The new 
 Government — Letter from Lamartine. 
 
 The year 1857 was rather an eventful one. In all 
 my remarks I have avoided as much as possible 
 everything in the shape of political discussion. I 
 am writing, therefore, in a perfectly neutral spirit 
 when I point out that what happened in that year 
 gives evidence of the sympathy of the House of 
 Lords with popular feeling. 
 
 A great debate took place in the House of 
 Lords on Lord Derby's motion to censure Dr. 
 Bowring, Governor of Hong-Kong, and Pleni- 
 potentiary in China. The motion was rejected by 
 a majority of 36. Almost at the same time a 
 similar motion was introduced in the House of 
 Commons, and there carried against the Govern- 
 ment by 16 votes. I heard Mr. Gladstone's 
 wonderfully eloquent speech on that occasion, in 
 which the following passage occurred : — 
 
 The subordinate officers of England, in a remote 
 quarter of the globe, misconstrued the intentions of their 
 country. They acted in violation of their principles of 
 
 252
 
 chxxii INDIAN MUTINY 253 
 
 right. The Executive Government failed to check them. 
 The appeal was next made to the House of Lords, and made 
 as such an appeal ought to be made, for the cause was 
 worthv of the eloquence, and the eloquence was worthy of 
 the cause. It was made to nobles, and it was made to 
 bishops, and it failed. But it does not rest with sub- 
 ordinate officials abroad, it does not rest with the Executive 
 Government, it does not rest with the House of Lords, 
 finally, and in the last resort, to say what shall be the policy 
 of England, and to what purpose shall her powers be 
 directed. Sir, that function lies within these walls. Every 
 member of the House of Commons is proudly conscious that 
 he belongs to an assembly which, in its collective capacity, 
 is the paramount power of the State. But if it is the 
 paramount power of the State, it can never separate from 
 the paramount power a similar and paramount responsibility. 
 The vote of the House of Lords will not acquit us. The 
 sentence of the Government will not acquit us. It is with 
 us to determine whether this wrong shall remain unchecked 
 and uncorrected. 
 
 Thereupon a dissolution took place ; but it 
 resulted in a triumph for the Government, and 
 they returned to office in April with an increased 
 majority. Parliament was prorogued on the 28th 
 of August by commission. Later in the year, how- 
 ever, it was again called together by a monetary 
 crisis of great severity, which required to be dealt 
 with immediately. 
 
 The year was remarkable for the breaking out 
 of the great Mutiny in India. The conduct of 
 the Government in suppressing it was commented 
 upon with much severity, as displaying want of 
 energy. By the end of the year, however, the 
 position in India, though still very critical, was
 
 254 ORSINIS ATTEMPT ch. 
 
 considered to be assured. The East India Com- 
 pany's government of that country was abolished, 
 and India was transferred to the direct government 
 of the Crown. Meanwhile, the Indian question 
 was not the cause of the downfall of Lord 
 Palmerston's Government. No doubt, as Lord 
 Fitzmaurice has mentioned in his Life of Lord 
 Granville, "a variety of circumstances combined 
 to diminish the popularity of Lord Palmerston. 
 He was considered by some to be over-confident 
 and jaunty, and the immediate following of the 
 Prime Minister had shown unnecessary bitterness 
 to those who differed from them. Several un- 
 popular appointments had been made, one in 
 particular to a high office of State." 
 
 The attack of Orsini on the Emperor of the 
 French, on January 14, led to the introduction 
 of a Bill by the Government on February 20, 
 1858, known as the Foreign Conspiracy to Murder 
 Bill. There had been very violent articles in the 
 papers of both countries, and some addresses by 
 colonels to the French Emperor, published officially, 
 were supposed to be insulting to England. Lord 
 Clarendon, the Foreign Minister, for reasons which 
 were probably sound, had not answered a despatch 
 addressed to him by the French Ambassador before 
 the Foreign Conspiracy Bill had been introduced. 
 This may or may not have been an error of 
 judgment, but it was seized upon as being a mark 
 of the subserviency of Lord Clarendon to the 
 French Government.
 
 xxii APPOINTMENT AS SECRETARY 255 
 
 Consequently, Mr. Milner Gibson brought 
 forward a vote of censure. Great doubts existed 
 at first as to whether the motion would be carried ; 
 but the different elements against the Premier, 
 and the causes already mentioned, were too strong. 
 The Government was defeated by a majority of 
 19. The Cabinet resigned, and Lord Derby was 
 entrusted with the formation of a new adminis- 
 tration. Lord Malmesbury was appointed Foreign 
 Secretary ; Sir Edward Bulwer Lytton was named 
 Secretary for the Colonies, and my relative, Mr. 
 Spencer Walpole, was named Home Secretary. 
 It was at first decided that I was to be Private 
 Secretary to Lord Malmesbury, with Mr. Dashwood 
 as precis - writer ; but Mr. Bidwell having put 
 in an official claim for the appointment, Lord 
 Malmesbury split the two appointments into three. 
 Mr. Bidwell was named Private Secretary, I be- 
 came assistant, and Mr. Dashwood precis-writer. 
 
 I was very glad to get out of the ordinary 
 routine of office life ; but my experience confirmed 
 the old proverb, " Two is company, three is none/' 
 The division was the cause of constant misunder- 
 standing, though for some time I remained Aery 
 happily with Lord Malmesbury, carrying out the 
 business he gave me, I hope, with success. 
 
 At that time I saw a great deal of Sir Edward 
 Bulwer Lytton, and stayed frequently at Kneb- 
 worth. He was good enough to consult me at 
 different times concerning the Ionian Islands, as I 
 had had occasion to study the question, both in
 
 256 THE NEW GOVERNMENT ch. 
 
 the Foreign Office and during my various journeys 
 to the Mediterranean. 
 
 It may be considered interesting to reproduce 
 from a manuscript in my possession the opinions of 
 an unobtrusive but highly respected politician on 
 some members of the new Government : — 
 
 The Earl of Derby, K.G. — The second Earl of England 
 — a man of whom it was said by a foreigner, that he wants 
 nothing. 
 
 His position, as Captain of the Conservative Party, was 
 acquired at a period when that party, elevating a tax into 
 a principle, had quarrelled with a Chief who had sacrificed 
 his party by the mode rather than the substance of an 
 expedient. 
 
 In many respects Lord Derby is well qualified for 
 the lead of a powerful aristocratic phalanx. High-born, 
 eloquent, polished, and even dexterous, with a sense of 
 chivalry and of ridicule equally acute, his qualifications for 
 leadership are prominent in this brilliancy. But in some 
 qualities he is deficient. Confident in his natural station,, 
 he is, or affects to be, indifferent to the lure of office. To 
 this tendency the Conservative Party owes the fatal blunder 
 of 1855, the loss of the only chance of retrieval which has 
 occurred since 1846, or of official tenure to be counted by 
 years rather than months. He disdains the arts by which 
 office can alone be attained and kept in a Constitutional 
 State. 
 
 Though literary himself, he despises the fugitive press, 
 nor is he willing to lend a helping hand, or to extend his 
 social intimacy to any but those whose quarterings place 
 them on his own level. Besides this, he has one great 
 defect from which few men of talent are exempt. He 
 cannot perceive the dangers to which his popularity is 
 exposed by an irony which can neither be understood nor 
 appreciated by mediocrity, which seldom is humorous. 
 
 The Right Hon. B. Disraeli, Chancellor of the Exchequer, 
 is a man totally different in character and aspiration. Mr»
 
 xxii MR. DISRAELI 257 
 
 Disraeli lives for politics. In them he breathes and has his 
 being. By them alone has he attained a leading position, 
 and without them every occupation is gone. Patient, long- 
 suffering, but of small gentleness, he has achieved a position 
 without precedent by a stony road which none before him 
 had trodden. Self-contained, taciturn, and by art, if not 
 by nature, unsociable, impatient of advice, he has earned the 
 respect of some, the hatred of many, and the devotion of a 
 few. He is the self-made Minister of a despotic state 
 turned loose in a Constitution which he uses without loving. 
 With some he is the hope, with others the despair, and with 
 all the necessity of his party. His career has been one of 
 will, unswerving in its intensity, based on the selfishness and 
 weakness of politicians, and the power of his own intellect, 
 rather than on the broad truths of human society. Seeking 
 for hidden motives where none exist, he glories in the 
 mystery which creates distrust and the reserve which repels 
 attachment. He has no love, no hatred, except as an 
 instrument. For him office or opposition are the sole 
 elements and objects of political life. His vast erudition 
 and considerable eloquence are the projectiles of polemic ; 
 his subtle vigilance its outworks. For him there is no 
 gradation between action and indolence. In office he 
 initiates no legislation. As Minister or Critic, he is merely 
 the champion, the pilot or the avenger of his party. But not 
 even bankruptcy could cancel the liabilities of the Con- 
 servative Party to Mr. Disraeli. They are as indelible as the 
 gratitude of a child towards its parent, of a drowning man 
 to his salvor, of the lion to Androcles. He found it dis- 
 persed, betrayed, without a refuge, with scarcely a wish. 
 He has nursed it with the fierce watchfulness of a tigress 
 defending her young. The party had dwindled into a 
 faction. Its numbers, like the Italian Legitimists, would 
 soon have rallied to new combinations, or fought singly like 
 the brigands of Southern Italy, till they were captured or 
 killed. Without veterans, and without recruits, its very 
 name would have died out from political combinations, had 
 not Mr. Disraeli made himself a career by restoring its own 
 broken columns. 
 
 VOL. 1 S
 
 258 MR. SPENCER WALPOLE ch. 
 
 In one respect Lord Derby and Mr. Disraeli are alike. 
 They may command the fidelity of their party, and even the 
 support of Parliament. They can never fire the enthusiasm 
 of the country. 
 
 The Earl of Carnarvon, Secretary of State for the 
 Colonies, is not without experience in his Department, nor 
 devoid of Parliamentary tact. Under Lord Stanley and Sir 
 Edward Lytton, he acquired during Lord Derby's second 
 administration some knowledge of ministerial life, and, at 
 second hand, some insight into the feelings of the House of 
 Commons. A laborious student, and a finished scholar, his 
 acquirements, to a great extent, make up for his want of 
 originality, while a desire of success may compensate the 
 absence of any striking ability. On the whole, he is a good 
 average Minister, though his early succession to the peerage, 
 and a shy supercilious demeanour, will prevent his achieving 
 the foremost rank, or becoming a party leader. 
 
 The Right Hon. Spencer Walpole, Home Secretary, is 
 a man of whom no one can speak ill. A distinguished 
 scholar, a profound lawyer, with a considerable knowledge 
 of the world, and a judgment sound, if not powerful, he 
 will always command the respect and affection, if not the 
 implicit confidence, of those with whom he deals. 
 
 I think there must be some mistake in the 
 date of this paper, as Lord Carnarvon was at that 
 time, I think, only Under-Secretary of State. Mr. 
 Spencer Walpole I knew very well. He was one 
 of the most upright men I ever came across, and 
 everybody had confidence in him. He was trustee 
 for more people than I can recollect, and his death 
 was a great loss to many. 
 
 About this time misfortunes overtook M. de 
 Lamartine, and people in all countries endeavoured 
 to unite in assisting him. Sir Edward Lytton 
 wrote a letter to M. de Lamartine, which I regret
 
 xxii LETTER FROM LAMARTINE 259 
 
 that I do not possess, but the reply to it is still in 
 my keeping, and I give it herewith : — 
 
 Monsieur et illustre ami ! — Votre lettre n'est pas de ce 
 siecle; elle devrait etre datee de l'antiquite ! Puisse la 
 posterite la lire ! Mais combien Tavenir rfaura-t-elle pas 
 a rabattre des termes dans lesquels vous parlez de ma vie ! 
 Vous vous etes trop souvenu de eette maxime des bons 
 cceurs : Flattez les 7iiallieureiur ! 
 
 Je suis tres malheureux en effet. Je ne cherche point 
 a le dissimuler a moi-meme ou aux autres. Quand une 
 souscription de eette nature n'est pas un eclatant honneur, 
 elle est une eclatante humiliation. Je sais bien que 
 Thumiliation n'est pas la honte, mais elle en est Papparence. 
 Elle fait baisser la tete devant les hommes, sinon devant 
 Dieu. II faut, croyez-moi, que j'aye des motifs bien obli- 
 gatoires, bien sacres, et bien superieurs a ceux qu'on 
 nfattribue pour ne pas retirer mon nom de tout ce bruit 
 autour d'un obole ! 
 
 La France ne me doit rien. Je lui dis vingt fois, je n'ai 
 rien fait pour elle que ce que beaucoup d'autres out fait 
 avec moi, chacun dans leur role, et ce que tout autre a ma 
 place eut fait mieux que moi. Je me trompe cependant. 
 J'ai fait quelquechose. Je Tai passionnement aimee. Je 
 l'ai aimee non seulement dans sa grande individuality 
 nationale, mais je Tai aimee dans chacune de ses classes, et, 
 pour ainsi dire, dans chacun des individus dont eette 
 grande famille de la patrie se compose. Si Ton m'avait dit 
 alors que le premier ou le dernier de ses citoyens allait etre 
 chasse de son foyer (chateau ou chaumicre) faute de quel- 
 que million ou de quelque centime pour le racheter de 
 Impropriation, ce citoyen eut-il etc mon ennemi politique, 
 le ciel nfest temoin que je lui aurais adresse avec ma 
 respectueuse attendrissement la dime de mon cceur ! 
 
 Des classes injustement hostiles en France n'ont ])as juge 
 a propos de faire pour moi, a la voix de mes amis, ce que 
 j'aurais fait pour elles; mais elles out paye Toccasion bonne 
 pour se venger apres dix ans du mal que je ne leur ai pas 
 fait. J'accepte. Elles me meprisent sans en avoir le
 
 260 GRATITUDE TO ENGLAND ch. xxii 
 
 droit. La France scait bien cependant que la partie n'est 
 pas egale, car je lVaurai jamais a raon tour ni la volonte ni 
 le droit de mepriser mon pays ! 
 
 Quant a l'etat, je me suis fait une loi de ne lui rien 
 devoir comme homme prive, sous tous les regimes, dans tout 
 le cours de ma vie. Je ne me departirai pas de cette loi a 
 la fin de ma carriere. Le gouvernement est intervenu dans 
 cette circonstance envers le comite de mes concitoyens de 
 Macon, en termes d'une excessive obligeance. Je pouvais les 
 sentir. Je ne devais pas y repondre. J'aurais admis ainsi 
 un caractere politique dans une souscription de cceur et non 
 d'opinion. Ce ne pouvait etre ni ma pensee, ni celle du 
 gouvernement. II ne me devait que sa neutralite. 
 
 J'apprends par vous qu'en Angleterre un comite, compose 
 d'hommes d'etat, d'orateurs, d'ecrivains illustres, veut bien 
 me temoigner un interet international. Exprimez-lui ma 
 reconnaissance. Je ne me trompe pas, comme quelques 
 publicistes franeais se trompent, sur la signification de ce 
 comite. Ce n'est pas un reproche. C'est un concours a 
 la France ; c'est Talliance des e'tats que TAngleterre veut 
 illustrer une fois de plus par Talliance des cceurs. La seuie 
 chose, en eflfet, que TAngleterre puisse avoir Tintention de 
 recompenser en moi, c^st le culte constant et avoue de cette 
 paix plus glorieuse pour les deux nations que leurs plus 
 belles victoires, car c'est la victoire de leur bon sens sur des 
 rivalites sm-annees qu'il faut laisser, sans les remuer, au fond 
 de Thistoire, comme la mauvaise lie des vieux terns ! 
 
 Recevez, Monsieur et illustre ami, Tassurance de ma 
 haute consideration. Lamaiitine. 
 
 Paris, 14 juin, 1858, 
 43, rue ville l'Eveque.
 
 CHAPTER XXIII 
 
 Fuad Pasha — Private Secretary to Sir Edward Lytton — Work at 
 Colonial Office — Heads of Departments — Sir Arthur Birch — Tour 
 in the Lake Country — Distinguished Colonists — Visitors at Kneh- 
 worth — Marriage of the Princess Royal — Peace with Persia — Causes 
 of the War — Three Canadian statesmen — Marshal Pe'lissier 
 Foundation of British Columbia — Sir Edward Lytton's speech. 
 
 During 1858, Fuad Pasha, who was at the time, I 
 think, Grand Vizier in Turkey, came to England. 
 Lord Malmesbury was in Scotland, in attendance 
 on the Queen ; but Lady Bulwer, who was in 
 England, the wife of Sir Henry Bulwer, then 
 Ambassador at the Porte, was anxious that he 
 should be well received. It was unfortunate that 
 Lord Malmesbury should be absent at such a time, 
 and Sir Edward Lytton therefore gave a party at 
 Knebworth, to which Fuad Pasha was invited, and 
 I was instructed by Lord Malmesbury and Sir 
 Edward Lytton to place myself at his disposal. 
 This led to an acquaintance which later circum- 
 stances proved very confidential. 
 
 During the Pasha's stay in England, he was in 
 the habit of visiting a lady whose husband was 
 much mixed up in Turkish matters, but who her- 
 self was not a woman of anv great tact. Site 
 
 261
 
 262 SIR EDWARD LYTTON ch. 
 
 thought it witty to ask Fuad Pasha how many 
 wives he had. He generally evaded the answer ; 
 but on one occasion she repeated the question very 
 bluntly in the presence of others. Fuad Pasha 
 replied, " The same number as your husband — two. 
 The only difference is that he conceals one of his, 
 and I do not." 
 
 I recollect this same question being put to a 
 Turkish naval lieutenant, who commanded a launch 
 placed at my disposal at Constantinople by the 
 Sultan. He was asked by a young Secretary how 
 many wives he had, and replied, in English, " I 
 have only one. I find that quite enough ! " 
 
 Towards the end of 1858 there was a readjust- 
 ment of the office of Private Secretary, and it was 
 agreed between Sir Edward Bulwer Lytton and 
 Lord Malmesbury that I should become Private 
 Secretary to the former ; but that for special circum- 
 stances I should always give such assistance as was 
 in my power to the Foreign Secretary. 
 
 I found that the work of the Colonial Office was 
 extraordinarilv different from that of the Foreign 
 Office. In the latter, business requires quick 
 despatch ; in the former, great deliberation. There 
 are few sudden emergencies under the Colonial 
 Office, and the work is done very much according 
 to precedent, whereas in the Foreign Office unpre- 
 cedented events frequently occur. The Heads of 
 Departments in the Colonial Office, therefore, often 
 obtain much more influence and authority than in 
 the Foreign Office. At that time several men of
 
 xxiii COLONIAL OFFICE 263 
 
 great capacity had charge of the Departments. 
 One was Sir George Barrow, whose father had been 
 Secretary to the Admiralty. Others were Mr. 
 Blackwood, a brother of Sir Francis Blackwood, 
 and related to Lord Dnfferin, and Mr. Cox, who 
 was always peculiarly dressed. In the morning he 
 used to wear a tail-coat, and a single glass in his 
 eye, to which no string was attached. Their work 
 was rather that of Ministers on a small scale than 
 of subordinates in a Department, and their decisions 
 were rarely altered, for they had all the circum- 
 stances at their fingers' ends. Mr. Herman 
 Merivale was Under-Secretary of State, a man of 
 great knowledge and experience, and well replaced, 
 when necessary, by Mr. — later Sir Frederick 
 — Elliot, the Assistant Under - Secretary of 
 State. 
 
 One of the foremost Heads of Departments was 
 Sir Henry Taylor, the poet, author of Philip van 
 Artevelde. He was also a great authority on 
 Colonial subjects. The ease with which the work 
 was done in those days is shown by the fact that 
 Sir Henry Taylor was allowed to live principally 
 out of town, his work being sent down to him 
 every day by post. I knew him at Bournemouth, 
 where he had a house, and where he carried on his 
 Colonial Office business. On more than one occa- 
 sion I believe he was offered an Under-Secretaryship 
 of State, but declined it for fear of his liberty being 
 restricted. He had married a daughter of Lord 
 Monteagle, a sister of Mr. Spring-Rice, whom I
 
 204 DISTINGUISHED COLONISTS ch. 
 
 have mentioned elsewhere and who was a great 
 friend of mine in the Foreign Office. 
 
 Another prominent member of the Colonial 
 Office was Mr. Dealtry — a son of the celebrated 
 Archdeacon. He, for a long time, managed the 
 affairs of the Australian Department. 
 
 As Assistant Private Secretary I was fortunate 
 enough to obtain the services of Mr. Arthur Birch, 
 then a clerk in the Colonial Office. I had some 
 intimate friends in his family. He subsequently 
 held several important appointments in the Colonies, 
 for which he received the K.C.M.G. He is now 
 the West End representative of the Bank of 
 England. 
 
 One of my pleasantest recollections of the time 
 when I was Secretary to Sir Edward Lytton was 
 that of taking a tour with him through the Lake 
 Country. He was well versed in its history, and 
 in the poetry of the Lake School. 
 
 During my term of office as Secretary to Lord 
 Lytton, I naturally made the acquaintance of many 
 distinguished colonists. Amongst them was Sir 
 Charles Nicholson, who had settled in Australia as 
 a physician. He held office more than once, and, 
 when Queensland was established, he accompanied 
 the first Governor to that Colony, and was made 
 Speaker of the House of Assembly. Sir Charles 
 was the premier baronet of Australia. 
 
 I also made the acquaintance of Sir George 
 Macleay, who came of a scientific family. His 
 father was Colonial Secretary of New South Wales,
 
 xxiii BUSH STORIES 265 
 
 and had founded the Linnsean Society. I believe 
 it was he who gave Botany Bay its name. 
 
 Sir George Macleay had some interesting 
 anecdotes respecting the Australian natives, whom 
 he described as very intelligent. He visited one 
 distant part of the Colony by steamer. There he 
 found that the inhabitants had recently been 
 instructed in the doctrines of Christianity ; but 
 they all believed that the history of the New 
 Testament was going on still and that the principal 
 persons were still alive. When the steamer came 
 to the landing-place, the natives came up and said 
 to the Captain, " How do, Captain ? All well at 
 Sydney ? How's the Governor ? And how's 
 'Postle Paul ? " 
 
 On one occasion, when riding, Sir George saw 
 in the distance some one who afterwards turned 
 out to be a clergyman. He asked his native guide 
 who the gentleman was, and received the reply, 
 " Him white man — belong to Sunday. Put his 
 shirt outside trouser and talk long corrobery 'bout 
 debble-debble." 
 
 It appears that the cattle browsing in the 
 Australian bush have a very keen scent for natives, 
 of whom they are afraid. One day, when Sir 
 George was riding with his guide, he saw in the 
 distance a drove running away for no apparent 
 reason. He said to his guide, "Why are those 
 cattle running away?" The native replied, w Me 
 "tinkee." 
 
 There was an Australian millionaire whose
 
 266 AUSTRALIAN FORTUNES oh. 
 
 fortune was said to have been accumulated in the 
 following manner. Being in Australia at the time 
 of the discovery of gold in Victoria, he at once 
 went to live in the city, later on known as 
 Melbourne, and took a house next door to the 
 Bank, where all the gold was stored that came 
 from the mines. He proceeded to dig a tunnel 
 between his cellar and the cellars of the Bank 
 where the gold was stored, and at once accumulated 
 a very lame fortune. 
 
 Another man, G , a contractor, married a 
 
 remarkably able woman, who for a long time held 
 rather a prominent position in London, in certain 
 political and financial quarters. The origin of his 
 fortune was as follows. At the time of the gold 
 being found in Victoria, he went there with his 
 wife, after obtaining an ordinary letter of introduc- 
 tion from Messrs. Rothschild to some influential 
 persons at Melbourne. He observed that the 
 whole city, then becoming so important, was 
 unpaved. Presenting himself to the authorities, 
 who believed him to be an agent of Messrs. 
 Rothschild, he asked to be trusted with the con- 
 tract for paving the town at a certain price. The 
 authorities inquired where they should find the 
 money to pay him for the work. He said, " Leave 
 that to me," and the contract was signed. He 
 then found a contractor willing to execute the 
 works for a certain sum, less than that stipulated 
 for with the municipality. 
 
 His next step was to bring out a loan, to be
 
 xxiii KNEBWORTH 267 
 
 repaid by the municipality out of the money 
 destined for the contract. This loan was eagerly 
 taken up by persons in Melbourne itself, who, at 
 that moment, had no means of investing their 
 savings, and G left Melbourne, within a fort- 
 night of his arrival, with a profit of about forty 
 thousand pounds. 
 
 Sir Edward Lytton used frequently to ask 
 Colonial visitors to stay with him. I remember 
 that one particular guest, who had never been in 
 England before, but was well versed in English 
 literature, turned out at the end of his visit to 
 be under the impression that Knebworth was 
 Kenil worth. 
 
 Amongst others whose acquaintance I made at 
 Sir Edward Lytton's house was Mr. Dallas, the 
 United States Minister, who, with his family, came 
 there frequently. Sir Edward Lytton was greatly 
 admired in America. He had a somewhat close 
 connection with that country from the fact that 
 his brother, Sir Henry Bulwer, had passed a long- 
 time as Minister at Washington. As has been 
 mentioned elsewhere, he was one of the authors 
 of the Clayton-Bulwer Treaty. 
 
 I once heard Mr. Dallas make an excellent 
 speech at an Agricultural Dinner at Stevenage. 
 Before that occasion, 1 had never heard any 
 American eloquence ; but it struck me, though 
 somewhat peculiar, as very forcible. Mr. Dallas 
 used to make a pause after every word, and, 
 after a certain time, this habit had the effect of
 
 268 'A JOLLY OLD FELLOW ch. 
 
 emphasising to a marked degree the opinions he 
 wished to expound. 
 
 An American Secretary, a cheery and rather 
 rollicking young man, came to Knebworth at the 
 same time as a certain clergyman, remarkably self- 
 complacent, of the genus known as " squarson." 
 The contrast between the two guests was remark- 
 able. On one occasion, the squarson, standing 
 with his back to the fire, delivered himself of some 
 pompous remarks. " I was going through Paris, ' 
 he said, "and I saw a placard announcing that a 
 gathering of Americans was to be held in the 
 neighbourhood. I attended the meeting, and," 
 turning to the American, " you must acknowledge 
 that the occasion was one to draw forth all the 
 eloquence of American hearts. It was the death 
 of Webster." The American replied, "Yes, sir. 
 I agree with you. Mr. Webster was a very jolly 
 old fellow." 
 
 Another American gentleman, during this visit, 
 also gave me two specimens of his native humour. 
 Some people were travelling on a steamer in 
 America, and there was a man on board who 
 came from the West. My friend said that there 
 was always some joke about Westerners, and one 
 man — thinking himself humorous— went up to this 
 passenger and said, " You don't remember me ? 
 I come from your neighbourhood." The other 
 replied, " Oh, I remember you well. I recollect 
 when you was born. Your mother had twins — 
 a boy and a monkey. The boy died."
 
 xxiii WHAT HELL REQUIRES 269 
 
 Another anecdote was of a public functionary 
 in high office who went to make enquiries about a 
 new settlement that was to be founded. He asked 
 the Head what was most wanted. The reply was, 
 " We require water, and a little good society." 
 The functionary answered, " That's what hell 
 requires." 
 
 During 1858 a marriage was arranged between 
 the eldest son of the King of Prussia and the 
 Princess Royal of England. This was the first 
 wedding that took place of any of the children of 
 the Queen, and the rejoicings in England were 
 great. 
 
 In March a Treaty of Peace was signed between 
 Great Britain and Persia, putting an end to the war 
 which had been going on for some time. It had 
 been brought about by the following letter from 
 the Shah, which, together with others written 
 by his Ministers, was considered offensive to the 
 British Minister. 
 
 December 1855. 
 
 Last night we read the paper written by the English 
 Minister Plenipotentiary, and were much surprised at the 
 rude, unmeaning, disgusting, and insolent tone and purport. 
 The letter which he before wrote was also impertinent. We 
 have also heard that, in his own house, he is constantly 
 speaking disrespectfully of us and of you, but we never 
 believed ; now, however, he has introduced it in an official 
 letter. We are, therefore, convinced that this man, Mr. 
 Murray, is stupid, ignorant, and insane, who has the audacity 
 and impudence to insult even kings! From the time of 
 Shah Sultan Hossein (when Persia was in its most disorganised 
 state, and during the last fourteen years of his life, when by
 
 270 CANADIAN VISITORS ch. 
 
 serious illness he was incapacitated for business) up to the 
 present time, no disrespect towards the Sovereign has been 
 tolerated, either from the Government or its Agent. What 
 has happened now, that this foolish Minister Plenipotentiary 
 acts with such temerity ? It appears that our friendly Mis- 
 sions are not acquainted with the wording of that document ; 
 give it now to Meerza Abbas and Meerza Malcum, that they 
 may take and duly explain it to the French Minister and 
 Hyder Effendi, that they may see how improperly he has 
 written. Since last night till now our time has been passed 
 in vexation. We now command you, in order that you may 
 yourself know, and also acquaint the Missions, that until the 
 Queen of England herself makes us a suitable apology for the 
 insolence of her Envoy, we will never receive back this her 
 foolish Minister, who is a simpleton, nor accept from her 
 Government any other Minister. 
 
 Three Canadian statesmen came to England 
 in 1858 to study certain points. They were Mr. 
 C artier, Mr. Ross, and Mr. Gait, who was a son of 
 the celebrated author. All three had held high 
 office in Canada. They were invited to stay at 
 Knebworth, and, at a dinner given by Sir Edward 
 Lytton, they made most interesting speeches, in 
 which they laid claim to being the advisers of the 
 British Crown for Colonial affairs. Subsequently 
 to this, I think, Sir John Rose was named High 
 Commissioner for Canada. The rapid progress 
 made by that country may be said to have begun 
 with the visit of these Canadian statesmen. 
 
 The year 1858 was remarkable in the Diplomatic 
 Service through the appointment of Marshal 
 Pelissier as French Ambassador in London. The 
 period was also one of interest owing to the founda- 
 tion of British Columbia. An expedition of Royal
 
 xxiii FAREWELL SPEECH 271 
 
 Engineers was organised to go there. On their 
 embarkation Sir Edward Lytton made a speech, 
 which has never till now been published, and 
 which, to my mind, was one of the best he ever 
 delivered : — 
 
 Soldiers ! I have just come to say to you a few kind 
 words of parting. 
 
 You are going to a distant country, not, I trust, to tight 
 against men, but to conquer nature ; not to besiege cities, 
 but to create them ; not to overthrow kingdoms, but to assist 
 in establishing new communities under the sceptre of your 
 own Queen. 
 
 For these noble objects, you, Soldiers of the Royal 
 Engineers, have been specially selected from the ranks of Her 
 Majesty's armies. Wherever you go, you carry with you not 
 only English valour and English loyalty, but English intelli- 
 gence and English skill. Wherever a difficulty is to be 
 encountered, which requires in the soldier not only courage 
 and discipline, but education and science, Sappers and Miners, 
 the Sovereign of England turns with confidence to vou. 
 If this were a service of danger and bloodshed, I know 
 that on every field, and against all odds, the honour of the 
 English arms would be safe from a stain in your hands ; but 
 in that distant region to which you depart, I hope that our 
 national flag will wave in peaceful triumph, on many a Roval 
 birthday, from walls and church-towers which you will have 
 assisted to raise from the wilderness, and will leave to remote 
 generations as the bloodless trophies of your renown. 
 
 Soldiers ! you will be exposed to temptation. You go 
 where gold is discovered — where avarice inflames all the 
 passions. But I know that the voice of duty and the love of 
 honour will keep you true to your officers, and worthy of the 
 trust which your Sovereign places in her Royal Engineers. 
 
 On my part, as one of the Queen's Ministers, I promise 
 that all which can conduce to vour comfort, and fairly reward 
 your labours, shall be thoughtfully considered. You have 
 heard from my distinguished friend, your commanding officer,
 
 272 A GLORIOUS ENTERPRISE ch. xxrn 
 
 that every man amongst you who shall have served six years 
 in British Columbia, and receives at the end of that time a 
 certificate of good conduct, will be entitled — if he desire to 
 become a resident in the Colony — to thirty acres of land, aye, 
 and of fertile land, in that soil which you will have assisted 
 to bring into settlement and cultivation. 
 
 In the strange and wild district to which you are bound, 
 you will meet with men of all countries, of all characters and 
 kinds. You will aid in preserving peace and order, not by 
 your numbers, not by mere force, but by the respect which 
 is due to the arms of England, and the spectacle of your own 
 discipline and good conduct. You will carefully refrain from 
 (juarrel and brawl. You will scorn, I am sure, the vice which 
 degrades God's rational creature to the level of the brute — 
 I mean the vice of intoxication. I am told that is the vice 
 which most tempts common soldiers. I hope not, but I am 
 sure it is the vice which least tempts thoughtful, intelligent, 
 successful men. You are not common soldiers — you are to 
 be the pioneers of civilisation. 
 
 Nothing more counteracts the taste for drink than the 
 taste for instruction. And Colonel Moody will endeavour 
 to form for your amusement and profit, in hours of relaxa- 
 tion, a suitable collection of books. I beg to offer my 
 contribution to that object, and I offer it, not as a public 
 Minister, out of public monies, but in my private capacity 
 as a lover of literature myself, and your friend and well- 
 wisher. 
 
 Farewell ! Heaven speed and prosper you ! The enter- 
 prise before you is indeed glorious. Ages hence, industry 
 and commerce will crowd the roads that you will have made ; 
 travellers from all nations will halt on the bridges you will 
 have first flung over solitary rivers, and gaze on gardens and 
 cornfields that you will have first carved from the wilderness. 
 Christian races will dwell in the cities of which you will map 
 the sites and lay the foundations. You go not as the 
 enemies but as the benefactors of the land you visit, and 
 children unborn will, I believe, bless the hour when Queen 
 Victoria sent forth her Sappers and Miners to found a second 
 England on the shores of the Pacific.
 
 CHAPTER XXIV 
 
 Ionian Islands — Tenure of Islands — Sir Thomas Maitland's Constitu- 
 tion — Ionian titles — The Three Constitutions — Desire for union 
 with Greece — Constant friction — Legislative anomalies — Consular 
 jurisdiction — Mr. Gladstone's Mission. 
 
 Great difficulties had arisen in the Ionian Islands, 
 owing to the anomalous character of our hold 
 upon them. When, by the Peace at the end of 
 the Napoleonic Wars, the Ionian States were 
 placed under the protection of Great Britain, it 
 was found very difficult to adjust conditions under 
 which the new system was to be carried on. 
 
 The tenure of the Islands by England was of a 
 most curious character, and made up of contra- 
 dictions. It was derived from the Treaty of Paris, 
 but in somewhat vague language, and did not give 
 to the British Government that absolute and direct 
 control exercised over the Colonies of England. 
 With the object, however, of assuming authority by 
 indirect means, Sir Thomas Maitland constructed a 
 constitution whereby the Lord High Commissioner 
 practically enjoyed a good deal of power. It was 
 a constitution which in his hands, and with his 
 skill, had produced good results. 
 
 VOL. I 273 T
 
 274 'SHALL AND WILL DOCTOR' oh. 
 
 In a letter to Lord Bathurst, dated September 
 10, 1817, Sir Thomas Maitland said that the 
 Constitution would want what his brother, Lord 
 Lauderdale, called a "shall and will doctor," and 
 this was found in Sir Thomas Maitland himself. 
 He fully appreciated both the defects and the 
 virtues of the Ionians. In the Life of him, written 
 by Mr. Frewen Lord, Sir Charles Napier is reported 
 as saying of them at that time : — 
 
 The merry Greeks are worth all other nations put to- 
 gether. I like to see them, to hear them ; I like their fun, 
 their good -humour, their paddy ways. . . . All their bad 
 habits are Venetian ; their wit, their eloquence, their good- 
 nature are their own. 
 
 Sir Thomas Maitland borrowed from the policy 
 of the Venetians, when they held the Islands, of 
 appealing a good deal to the vanity of the subject 
 race. The Venetians had made a regulation 
 whereby it was possible to confer the degree of 
 Doctor on Ionians, without examination. This 
 was much appreciated, and, though the Venetians 
 took no titles themselves, the islanders were freely 
 raised to the rank of Count. Officials were entitled 
 to enjoy the most flattering adjectives, such as 
 " The Most Excellent," " The Most Illustrious," 
 " The Most Honourable," according to their rank. 
 The President of the Senate was styled " His 
 Highness." When the Order of St. Michael and 
 St. George was founded, the first idea was to call 
 it the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, or of 
 St. Spiridion ; but its present name was adopted,
 
 xxiv IONIAN GOVERNMENT 275 
 
 and the Order is now given to the King's Colonial 
 and Diplomatic servants. 
 
 I have a book called The Three Constitutions, 
 describing the government of the Ionian Islands. 
 The constitution under the Russians, in 1800, 
 which was, I believe, the work of Count Capo 
 d'Istria and Count Mocenigo, two Ionians in the 
 Russian Diplomatic Service, realised in its first 
 article the aspirations of the Ionians : — 
 
 La Repubblica delle Sette Isole Unite e una ed Aristo- 
 cratica. 
 
 The next constitution was drawn up on the 
 French occupation of the Islands in 1807, by 
 General Berthier, who was Governor-General and 
 Commander-in-Chief; and the third, which was 
 still in vigour in 1858, was promulgated by Sir 
 Thomas Maitland in January 1817. This con- 
 stitution presented the appearance of very wide 
 liberties, which were merely kept in check by 
 certain manipulations of the constituencies electing 
 to the Legislative Assembly ; but, as a fact, the 
 Lord High Commissioner exercised great control 
 over the electoral lists. This constitution had, no 
 doubt, effected great good by releasing the peasantry 
 from the arbitrary control of the old nobles. Certain 
 modifications were made by Lord Seaton in 1847. 
 His reforms, by cutting away the modifying pro- 
 visions, converted theoretical liberties into real 
 ones, and almost into license. The Ionians, however, 
 had never been reconciled to their subjection to
 
 276 DIFFICULTIES oh. 
 
 England. At the time of the Greek Revolution, 
 they became very much excited when they thought 
 that the action of the British Government evinced 
 a tendency to support attacks against the Greeks. 
 Their leading idea was to become part of the 
 Greek kingdom, and nothing short of this would 
 in any way satisfy them. It was plain, therefore, 
 that, owing to constant friction with the Ionian 
 Legislature, the constitution required reform. 
 
 Great difficulties presented themselves on 
 financial questions, which could only be settled 
 with the good-will of the Assembly. Still further 
 questions arose as to the relations of the Ionian 
 Islands with foreign subjects ; for the Ionians did 
 not think they were in any way bound to further 
 the foreign policy of the British Government, or to 
 abstain from acts which might embroil England 
 with foreign countries. 
 
 The immediate cause of the difficulties in 1858 
 was the fact that the municipal authorities had 
 interfered to prevent the supply of provisions to 
 some Turkish troopships which had stopped in 
 the harbour. It is useless to go into the details 
 of this question, though it was evidently one 
 of extreme gravity, for the contention was that 
 this refusal on the part of the municipality 
 of Corfu could not be controlled by the Protecting 
 Power. 
 
 The dilemma seemed almost insoluble. It was 
 clear that the Ionian Islands stood in great need of 
 reform. Finances were getting into disorder, and
 
 XXIV 
 
 ANOMALIES 277 
 
 constant slight collisions occurred between the 
 Protecting Power and the islanders. 
 
 There were some curious anomalies, too, in 
 Ionian legislation. The land laws required much 
 revision. The law of succession was very com- 
 plicated, and mortgages were the rule and not the 
 exception. Besides this there were certain rights, 
 which existed nowhere else, and which came down 
 from the times of the Venetians. 
 
 More than one Venetian noble among the 
 signori of the islands had rights to certain portions 
 of the lands or their produce ; some to a half, some 
 a third, some a fifth ; but all leading to complica- 
 tions. Thus, on occasions of death and succession, 
 the following anomalous position often presented 
 itself. 
 
 One srreat source of wealth in the island of 
 Corfu was oil. Sometimes a man would die 
 possessing the right of obtaining what he could 
 from certain olive-trees belonging to a landowner : 
 this right was probably mortgaged. There were 
 other persons who had a perpetual tenant right, who 
 were called coloni, and they might cultivate these 
 trees on paying a portion of the produce to their 
 owner. The coloni also had mortgages. Some- 
 times a tree, by the minute subdivision of property, 
 was found to belong to several persons, and this 
 would be the position. As a whole, the tree belonged 
 to A., and was mortgaged to 15., with perpetual 
 rights of cultivation belonging to C. A. had a 
 mortgage on the property, which belonged to him
 
 278 < LOG-ROLLING ' ch. 
 
 from the payments of the coloni. The colono 
 had a mortgage, and there was a fourth party who 
 had the perpetual right of purchasing the fruit from 
 the colono, and this perpetual right was also mort- 
 gaged. At times ownership was limited to the 
 branch of a tree. It was impossible to clear up 
 these points, as the Legislature refused to interfere. 
 
 By the Constitution, the Legislature was 
 summoned of right every two years for three 
 months, during which time they were supposed to 
 produce a new budget ; but if the discussion was 
 not finished by the end of the three months, the 
 session terminated, and, by the existing rule, the 
 last budget was ipso facto re-enacted. 
 
 The great difficulty in obtaining the budget was 
 owing to the jealousy of the different islands. 
 Zante would say, " Cephalonia has this : why 
 should we not have that ? " and it very often ended 
 in what the Americans call " log-rolling " ; that is to 
 say, Zante would say, "We will vote for your having 
 an hospital, if you will vote for giving us a pier." 
 
 Matters were rather complicated by the reports 
 of many military officers who declared that the 
 Ionian Islands were of no great value strategically. 
 Enormous sums had been spent on the fortifications 
 of Corfu ; but it was said that by one approach no 
 enemy could be prevented from reaching the town. 
 Large sums were due to the Protecting Govern- 
 ment, and an annual sum of money devoted to 
 the payment of the British officials was gradually 
 dwindling away.
 
 xxiv CONSULAR JURISDICTION 279 
 
 Questions had also arisen as to consular juris- 
 diction over Ionian subjects. As is well known, 
 differences between British subjects in Turkey, and 
 even crimes, are adjudicated upon by consuls, who 
 administer justice according to the laws of their 
 own country. The Ionians, hitherto, had been 
 subject to the same jurisdiction, namely, to that 
 of the British consuls, who adjudicated according 
 to the laws of England. A pretension, however, 
 had been recently put forward that British consuls 
 should administer justice to Ionian subjects accord- 
 ing to Ionian law. This they based on an article 
 of the Constitution which said, "British consuls 
 in all foreign states, without exception, shall be 
 considered to have the character of consuls and 
 vice-consuls of the United States of the Ionian 
 Islands, and the latter shall have the right to their 
 fullest protection." As by this article it appeared 
 that the British consuls did not administer justice 
 to Ionian citizens as British but as Ionian consuls, 
 the Ionians based on it their claim to be judged 
 by Ionian law. This right was subsequently 
 admitted, and here a curious circumstance occurred. 
 By the Constitution, the Lord High Commissioner 
 and the Senate — which consisted of five and their 
 President — were authorised, at a time when Parlia- 
 ment was not sitting, to enact laws called atti di 
 Governo — acts of Government — which had the 
 validity of law until the next meeting of Parlia- 
 ment. The discussion of the rights of the Ionians 
 lasted for a long time, and I once had to pay a visit
 
 280 MR. GLADSTONES MISSION ch. 
 
 to Constantinople, where a complicated question 
 had arisen, owing to a decision given by a British 
 consul in the Principalities. At length it was 
 decided to publish an atto di Govemo to settle the 
 matter ; but this, unfortunately, was completed 
 only immediately before the annexation of the 
 Islands to Greece, and therefore was what is called 
 in French un coup cTepee donne dans lean. 
 
 When the crisis in the Ionian Islands arose in 
 August 1858, Sir Edward Lytton induced the 
 Cabinet to adopt the most conciliatory attitude 
 possible. It was the wish of the Government, he 
 wrote, " that the Ionian people should be, without 
 delay, convinced of the earnest desire of the 
 Government to see the genuine interests of the 
 Islands advanced by the removal of whatever 
 defects in their institutions might impair the 
 desired harmony between the Ionian Legislature 
 and the Protecting Power." It was therefore 
 considered advisable to invite Mr. Gladstone to 
 undertake a Mission to the Ionian Islands, with 
 a view to adjusting the differences, if possible, 
 between the Protecting Power and the people 
 protected. His appointment to assist Sir John 
 Young, the Lord High Commissioner, was 
 announced to the latter in a long and weighty 
 despatch from Sir Edward Lytton, of which the 
 following is an extract : — 
 
 In all these disputes I have failed to perceive anything 
 that the forbearance and good sense of authorities in office, 
 so dignified and responsible, might not readily adjust, while
 
 xxiv HIS QUALIFICATIONS 281 
 
 there is much that any harsh or hasty action on the part 
 of the Protecting Government might aggravate into lasting 
 discords. 
 
 If, on the other hand, I am to take a more serious view 
 of the dissensions which have been submitted to my 
 judgment, I might inquire whether their origin may not be 
 traced to certain defects in the Ionian Constitution, which 
 the Constitution itself enables the Legislature to remove. 
 
 These are the general principles and sentiments enter- 
 tained by Her Majesty's Government with reference to the 
 pending questions which at present agitate the Ionian mind, 
 and which of course so materially augment your official 
 difficulties and responsibilities. With a view to assist you in 
 discharging the trust committed to you, and also to derive 
 the great advantage of a weighty opinion on Ionian affairs, 
 pronounced by a statesman who belongs to his country 
 rather than to any party in it, who has already occupied, 
 with marked distinction, the highest offices of the State, 
 whose mind has grasped foreign as well as domestic ques- 
 tions with equal vigour and success, and whose renown as a 
 Homeric scholar will justly commend him to the sympathies 
 of an Hellenic race, Her Majesty's Government have resolved 
 on despatching the Right Hon. W. E. Gladstone as a Special 
 Commissioner to inquire into and report on the whole state 
 of government in the Ionian Islands, and on the political 
 relations between the Protecting Power and the people, so, 
 let me hope, as to lead to the equitable and constitutional 
 adjustment of every existing difficulty. 
 
 You will not fail to observe in the choice of Mr. Glad- 
 stone, a gentleman not unknown to you in public and private 
 life, the intention of Her Majesty's Government to place the 
 most generous interpretation upon the policy which you 
 have pursued, to strengthen your hands by every legitimate 
 means, and to manifest to the Ionian people that the 
 interests and welfare of their islands are in this case receiv- 
 ing that special consideration and investigation which have 
 been bestowed in somewhat similar political emergencies on 
 some of the most ancient and important dependencies of the 
 British Crown.
 
 CHAPTER XXV 
 
 Mr. Gladstone's qualifications — His departure for the Ionian Islands — Sir 
 Henry Storks — Publication of secret despatches — Mr. Wellington 
 Guernsey — Letters from Mr. Gladstone — Mr. Gladstone's proposed 
 reforms — Refusal by Ionians — Mr. Gladstone's return to England 
 — Appointment of Sir Henry Storks as Lord High Commissioner 
 —Defeat of the Government — Sir Edward Lytton's prophecy — 
 Appointed Secretary to Lord High Commissioner — Officials in 
 Corfu. 
 
 Mr. Gladstone was well qualified for the mission 
 confided to him. He had a thorough knowledge 
 of Italian, the language commonly spoken in the 
 Ionian Islands, and his reputation as a statesman 
 and as a Hellenic scholar was very great. It 
 would have been impossible to find a representative 
 of England whose personal qualities were more 
 adapted to the nation with which he was about 
 to negotiate. He was appointed Lord High 
 Commissioner Extraordinary, and started early in 
 November, accompanied by Mrs. and Miss Glad- 
 stone. He had with him as Secretary to his 
 Mission Mr. — afterwards Sir James — Lacaita, a 
 Neapolitan gentleman well known in literature, 
 and a great friend of Sir Antonio Panizzi. Mr. 
 Gladstone was also accompanied by Mr. Arthur 
 Gordon — now Lord Stanmore — a son of Lord 
 
 282
 
 ch. xxv VIOLATION OF CONFIDENCE 283 
 
 Aberdeen, the Premier under whom Mr. Gladstone 
 had served so long, and who himself has since 
 occupied, with great success, the highest Colonial 
 positions. 
 
 During the time of the preparations for the 
 Mission, I saw a good deal of Mr. Gladstone, as 
 he constantly came to my room at the Colonial 
 Office to meet persons who were invited to give 
 him information. Amongst others came Sir 
 Henry Storks. He had passed several years in 
 the Ionian Islands, when serving in the Army, 
 and having been, I believe, married to an Italian 
 lady, spoke that language with great ease and 
 fluency. He thought himself rather a conqueror, 
 and on one occasion he told Mr. Gladstone that 
 one could only deal with the Ionians through the 
 women. Mr. Gladstone answered that on that 
 account he would take with him some of the 
 ladies of his family. 
 
 Very shortly after the departure of the Mission, 
 an event occurred of the greatest possible incon- 
 venience, namely, the publication of two despatches 
 on the Ionian Islands, containing proposals made 
 by the Lord High Commissioner, Sir John Young. 
 This created much perturbation. They had been 
 printed for the use of the Cabinet, and a number 
 of copies were lying on the table of an official in 
 the Colonial Office, covered by a letter-weight. 
 A friend of this official happened to come and 
 see him, and, being left alone, abstracted a copy 
 from the heap of papers, his eye having been
 
 284 SECRET PROPOSALS ch. 
 
 attracted by the words " Ionian Islands " and 
 " Secret and Confidential," which evidently indi- 
 cated matter of great interest on a subject very 
 much before the public. 
 
 The proposal contained in these despatches 
 from Corfu was that steps should be taken to 
 preserve for England, as a colony, the islands of 
 Corfu and Paxo, and to abandon the protectorate 
 of the southern islands. In answer to this recom- 
 mendation, Sir Edward Lytton had replied that 
 the British Government could not admit the 
 possibility of "an enforced abolition of the con- 
 stitution conferred by charter, without the consent 
 either of the Legislature, or that of the Powers 
 of Europe, to such a revisal of the Treaty as would 
 give the protecting sovereign rights which the 
 Treaty does not at present legally sanction." 
 
 This extraordinary violation of confidence gave 
 me a great deal of anxiety, as some persons ill- 
 naturedly insinuated that the publication had been 
 purposely effected by the Government with a view 
 to damaging a political opponent. I was in 
 consequence instructed to write the following 
 letter to the Times : — 
 
 I am directed to inform you that the recent publication 
 of two despatches from the Lord High Commissioner of the 
 Ionian Islands took place without the knowledge or sanction, 
 direct or indirect, of Her Majesty's Government, and that 
 from the time of their appearance strict inquiry has been in 
 progress into the manner in which they became public. 
 
 Mr. Strachey, precis -writer at the Colonial
 
 xxv ACCIDENTAL DISCOVERY 285 
 
 Office — a man of great ability, who had been in 
 India — and myself spent literally days and nights 
 in ascertaining how these papers had become 
 public. 
 
 We had almost given up the search in despair 
 when we at last learnt the truth, almost by 
 accident. One evening we went to the office of 
 the newspaper which had published the despatches 
 in question, and there we met a gentleman of 
 considerable importance. We explained to him 
 how hard it was that we should not be able to 
 obtain the information we required, as it caused 
 doubts to be entertained of persons who were quite 
 innocent. He thereupon gave us some clue as 
 to the names of the informant, which were 
 peculiar. He would not tell us the actual names, 
 but said he had done all he could by giving us 
 this intimation. The next day, on going to the 
 Colonial Office, we found that the official from 
 whose table the papers had been abstracted had 
 informed Mr. Elliot, the Under-Secretary of State, 
 that he suspected Mr. Wellington Guernsey, a 
 friend of his, who had been in his room the day 
 that the papers were lost. The name tallied with 
 the indications given us at the newspaper office, 
 and thus the mystery was cleared up. 
 
 The prosecution of Mr. Wellington Guernsey 
 ended in his acquittal, on the ground that the papers 
 and print had no intrinsic value. This view, put 
 forward by the defendant's counsel, was combated 
 by the Judge, Baron Martin, but adopted by the
 
 286 A GREEK ARCHBISHOP oh. 
 
 jury. The counsel for the Crown were the 
 Attorney - General, Sir Fitzroy Kelly, and Mr. 
 Serjeant Ballantine. It was said that the jury 
 had resented the employment of so big a gun as 
 the Attorney- General. 
 
 A great part of my time was engaged in keep- 
 ing Mr. Gladstone informed of minute events that 
 occurred in conjunction with his visit to the Ionian 
 Islands. Much tittle-tattle was raised in England 
 on account of a report that Mr. Gladstone, follow- 
 ing the example of all the Greeks, had kissed 
 the hand of a Greek Archbishop. Disagreeable 
 innuendoes were made public, and Sir Edward 
 Lytton thought it advisable that, in my letters 
 of gossip, I should call Mr. Gladstone's attention 
 to these matters, in case they had been ex- 
 aggerated. He replied to me as follows on the 
 7th of February 1859, from Corfu : — 
 
 The charge against me in the second paragraph is true. 
 I hope, however, that Sir E. Lytton will not, in his con- 
 sideration for me, entangle himself in such a matter ; but, as 
 he knows nothing now, will continue to know nothing on the 
 matter of fact, and will say that the subject did not enter 
 into his instructions or my despatches, and that he presumes 
 I shall be at home in two or three more weeks to answer for 
 all my misdeeds. In this case you would, I presume, simply 
 keep to yourself my avowal. 
 
 On the 13th of January he had written to me as 
 follows : — 
 
 • Your letter was very acceptable, and I hope you will send 
 me another without any apology. 
 
 It contained important news connected with my Mission ;
 
 xxv MR. GLADSTONE'S REFORMS 287 
 
 for if as you say the Cabinet met on the 10th (telegram said 
 12th) I may have Mr. St. John here next Monday with the 
 result, and may reply by our quick mail of Tuesday. We 
 have a messenger from Vienna come to-day, whom we shall 
 keep in pickle until then. 
 
 I have not got your Herald. I have written to Lord 
 Carnarvon about the telegrams. 
 
 From what you say, " Charles & George " will not make 
 a good dinner except for men with an appetite. I have no 
 means of knowing, at present, how that stands. But I 
 should think there would be no extreme keenness to prevent 
 the Government from playing its card, whatever it may be, 
 on Reform. It is a subject that yields few trumps or honours. 
 
 The deaths you mention are very touching, and they have 
 been accompanied with others of much interest to us. 
 
 Our winter is now become clear and cool. Mr. Lacaita 
 has, however, had a smart attack which his zeal has not 
 permitted him to nurse with sufficient care. 
 
 Though the telegram of Friday (7th) told us Sir J. Young 
 was recalled, he has not had any letter to-day to that effect. 
 Our letters are up to 5th. 
 
 Mr. Gladstone made a tour through the Ionian 
 Islands, and returned to Corfu on Christmas Day. 
 On the 5th of February he went in state to the 
 Senate, and in the course of his speech suggested a 
 number of reforms, while adding that Her Majesty 
 refused to abandon obligations to which she was 
 bound by the Treaty of Paris. 
 
 The Times wrote of " Mr. Gladstone's blandish- 
 ments, carried beyond the bounds of dignity and 
 common sense. He leaves Corfu, after throwing 
 down a heap of suggestions on the table of the 
 representative assembly." The Press, on the 
 whole, was very much opposed to Mr. Gladstone's 
 Mission. On his return he was offered the Grand
 
 288 REFORMS REFUSED ch. 
 
 Cross of the Bath. Among his reasons for refusing 
 it he made use of the following quaint expression : 
 " I am an old bachelor of the commonalty." 
 
 The suggested reforms may be summed up as 
 follows : the improvement of Ionian institutions 
 by extending the sphere of the Ionian element, and 
 contracting the sphere of the British ; the establish- 
 ment of a ministry open to the influence of the 
 Chambers, combined with the effective appropria- 
 tion to the Assembly of what is termed the power 
 of the purse. It was also proposed that on a joint 
 address from the two Chambers, praying for the 
 removal of a Ministry, it should cease to hold 
 office ; that all acts of the Lord High Commis- 
 sioner should require counter-signing by a respon- 
 sible Minister ; that the Lord High Commissioner 
 should be responsible to Ionian authority ; and 
 that the Ionian Parliament should be permitted 
 to lodge complaints against the Lord High Com- 
 missioner. 
 
 Though these proposed reforms were of the 
 widest possible character, the Ionian Parliament 
 pronounced them inadmissible, and again demanded 
 freedom and union with Greece. Mr. Gladstone 
 had aimed at establishing a state of things similar 
 to that of a self-governing British colony; but 
 the conditions and the mutual relations between 
 Great Britain and the Ionian people had no prece- 
 dent. The Ionians were not bound by any natural 
 allegiance to the Protecting Power. They had 
 been handed over by the vote of a Conference,
 
 xxv IONIAN VIEWS 289 
 
 held when the world was under very different 
 conditions, and before that, they had been under 
 the dominion of various other nations. It was 
 impossible for them to feel enthusiasm for the 
 British. Everywhere matters were progressing in 
 the sense of liberty and national consolidation. 
 Greece had been made free, and Italv was in a 
 state of insurrection. Either of these two countries 
 — particularly Greece — would have been more 
 congenial to the Ionian nature. 
 
 In refusing Mr. Gladstone's proposals, it was 
 evident that the last offer had been made and 
 rejected, and that nothing would satisfy the islanders 
 but complete liberty and union with Greece. 
 
 An Ionian gentleman once said to me : " How 
 can we be happy when the principal language 
 spoken in the island is a foreign one ? when we 
 have to look upon every British soldier as our 
 political master ? No doubt Great Britain has 
 given us a great many of the material appliances 
 of civilisation. She has made roads for us ; but we 
 do not want roads. We would rather have tracks 
 over which our horses and mules could convey our 
 produce. There is a great deal of society in the 
 island ; but we do not want society. We prefer 
 remaining in our homes in the country without 
 being obliged to dress for dinner. And those of 
 us who have ambitions, and require a higher 
 political and social atmosphere, would be better 
 contented if they could carry out their aspirations 
 in Greece, and belong to a nation which certainly 
 vol. i u
 
 290 SIR EDWARD LYTTON ch. 
 
 has had a great past, and which may renew in the 
 future the traditions of its history. We consider 
 that the Ionian people are subject to an abnormal 
 state of things. We are obliged to accept the 
 orders of a foreign Government, and that simply 
 because it is the desire of the Powers of Europe 
 that we should not form part of the Greek 
 kingdom." 
 
 Mr. Gladstone left Corfu to return to England 
 on the 26th of February 1859, Sir Henry Storks, 
 the new Lord High Commissioner, having arrived 
 three days previously. It may be seen, from what 
 I have already said, how difficult was the task of 
 the administration of the Ionian Islands. 
 
 In 1859, the Government brought in and were 
 defeated on their Reform Bill. On April 1 of 
 that year, a Cabinet was held to decide whether 
 the Government should retire at once, or dissolve 
 previously. Sir Edward Lytton was for immediate 
 resignation ; but, at the Cabinet in question, he 
 was overruled, and it was determined to dissolve. 
 Sir Edward thereupon wrote a memorandum in 
 the following words. This he specially gave to 
 me, and is still in my possession : — 
 
 Downing Street, April 1, 1859. 
 
 Remember my words ! From this day dates a change 
 that in a few years will alter the whole face of England. 
 From this day, the extreme Liberals are united. The great 
 towns will be banded for democracy, and democracy in 
 England is as sure as that we are in this room. Nothing 
 like this day since Charles I. did much the same as we are 
 doing.
 
 ■■ 
 
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 H 
 
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 CO 
 
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 O 
 
 -1 
 
 Ch
 
 xxv OFFICIALS AT CORFU 291 
 
 Previously to the defeat of Lord Derby's 
 Government, I had been named to succeed Sir 
 George Bowen as Secretary to the Lord High 
 Commissioner of the Ionian Islands. Sir George, 
 who was a great Greek scholar, had been appointed 
 Governor of the new colony, which, by the express 
 wish of Queen Victoria, had been called Queens- 
 land. On this occasion I received the following; 
 very kind letter from Mr. Gladstone : — 
 
 I congratulate you very sincerely on your appointment. 
 I am confident both that you will discharge exceedingly well 
 the direct duties of the office (you may, however, find some 
 difficulty at first with the modern Greek) and that you will 
 carry into them and into your whole course the spirit of 
 which it is so desirable that every Englishman in office 
 should set an example. 
 
 I presume you will not go out for some little time, and I 
 hope to have opportunities of seeing you before you go. 
 
 Sir Henry Storks brought with him to Corfu 
 two aides-de-camp : one was Major Peel, the son 
 of General Peel. He had been wounded in the 
 Crimea, and consequently at times suffered dread- 
 fully from rheumatic attacks. The other was a 
 young gentleman named Strahan, of the Artillery, 
 who had been chosen by Mr. Gladstone as his 
 A.D.C. from hearing an account of his proficiency 
 in Greek. On the departure of Major Peel, who 
 was promoted to a staff appointment in England, 
 Lieutenant Evelyn Baring was named his successor. 
 After a brilliant career he is now Lord Cromer. 
 Strangely enough, his first achievement in the 
 public service was of a financial character. When
 
 292 OFFICIALS AT CORFU oh. xxv 
 
 he arrived at Corfu, as a subaltern of Artillery, 
 the accounts of the Artillery mess were found to 
 he in some disorder. Lieutenant Baring was asked 
 to undertake the management. He did this so 
 well as to pave the way to his administrative 
 reputation. 
 
 General Sir George Buller commanded at Corfu. 
 He was married to a daughter of Sir John 
 Macdonald, the Adjutant- General in London. 
 His military secretary was Colonel Leicester 
 Curzon, a man thoroughly honourable and amiable, 
 and a universal favourite. He ended his life as 
 General Leicester Smyth, having changed his 
 name, and at one time commanded the forces at 
 the Cape of Good Hope. General Buller's other 
 A.D.C. was Mr. Arthur Ponsonby, to whom I 
 have already alluded as being an old friend of mine, 
 and a member of a family witli which I had been 
 long acquainted. 
 
 Mr. — later Sir Henry — Bulwer, a nephew of 
 Sir Edward Lytton, was appointed Resident, first 
 at Paxo, and then at Cerigo, the ancient Cythasra. 
 Before that he had been Secretary to the Governor 
 of Prince Edward Island. On the annexation of 
 the Islands he received a Colonial appointment, 
 and was Governor, with great success, of several 
 important dependencies, the last of them being 
 Cyprus.
 
 CHAPTER XXVI 
 
 Duties as Secretary — Financial Commission — Fiscal system in Corfu- — 
 Visit to England — Marriage Act for Ionian Islands — Inter- 
 national Statistical Congress — Sir Edward Lytton's visit to Corfu 
 — His interest in the Occult — Geomancy — Method of divination. 
 
 When I assumed my office in the Ionian Islands, 
 there were many questions, not strictly speaking 
 political, to which I was asked to turn my atten- 
 tion. Sir Henry Storks was fond of occupying 
 himself with detail, and he was anxious that I 
 should devote my studies, as far as possible, to 
 the development of those resources of the country 
 which were available, irrespective of conflicting 
 politics or current administration. With this object, 
 Sir Henry Storks issued several Commissions of 
 which I was a member. 
 
 In the first instance, on March 3, 1860, a Com- 
 mission was formed for enquiring into the financial 
 and fiscal system of the Ionian States, with the 
 view of preparing for submission to Parliament a 
 scheme for the more equal adjustment of the public 
 burdens. It ended in the preparation of a report 
 which might have been of value, had we continued 
 the occupation of the islands. 
 
 The fiscal system of the Ionian States had 
 
 293
 
 294 FINANCIAL COMMISSION ch. 
 
 hitherto principally relied on import and export 
 duties. From these sources, together with some 
 revenue from the sale of stamps, the monopoly of 
 salt and gunpowder, post office, port and health 
 dues, the income of the country had been chiefly 
 derived. 
 
 The average revenue of the last twenty years, 
 general and municipal, had been £172,000, and 
 during the same period the expenditure had 
 amounted to £182,000. Debts owing by indi- 
 viduals to the Government amounted to no less 
 a sum than £200,000. 
 
 The collection of the rents from municipal 
 property in Corfu showed a deficit. That property 
 might have yielded a considerable sum ; but tenants 
 of municipal houses frequently declined to pay rent 
 until judicially forced to do so, and social ties, so 
 strong in a small community, generally deterred 
 the authorities from resorting to so stringent a 
 measure. The same might be said of the water. 
 Pure water was supplied to the town of Corfu 
 for a certain payment ; but receipts from this 
 source amounted barely to £700 a year, of which 
 some £400 was paid by the British garrison, or 
 about one-seventh of the population. 
 
 The gross debt of the State was £298,000, of 
 which £90,000 was arrears of the military con- 
 tribution due by the Ionians to the Protecting 
 Power. 
 
 It was thought that the duties on currants, one 
 of the staple products of the Islands, demanded
 
 xxvi MARRIAGE ACT 295 
 
 reduction. The only country which competed with 
 the Ionian Islands in the production of currants 
 was Greece. Export duties in that country 
 amounted to twenty drachmas, or 14s. 2d. sterling, 
 per 1000 lbs.; and the Commission was of opinion 
 that, considering the superior quality of the Ionian 
 fruit, and the greater facilities for its conveyance, 
 the Ionian currant -duty might be assimilated to 
 that of Greece and be fixed at 14s. 2d. It was 
 also thought that duties might be levied on oil, 
 wine, sugar and tobacco. In fact, by an adjust- 
 ment of these different sources of revenue, it was 
 considered that the annual deficit might be met. 
 
 I was sent home in 1860 to submit to the 
 British Government the proposed changes sug- 
 gested by the Financial Commission, and also to 
 be of use in the passage through Parliament of a 
 Bill for legitimising British marriages in the Ionian 
 Islands. 
 
 When the occupation first took place, the 
 object had been to assimilate everything in the 
 Islands to the condition of a British Colony, and no 
 law had been passed regulating marriages between 
 British subjects. When in the Foreign Office, 
 I had been employed on the Consular Marriage 
 Act, passed in 1849, and I was struck with 
 the necessity for a similar Act for the Ionian 
 Islands. These Islands, not being a British pos- 
 session, were not subject to British law, and as 
 there was no consul or diplomatic representative 
 from England, there was no Act which regulated
 
 •296 SIR EDWARD LYTTON oh. 
 
 such marriages. Although no question had been 
 raised as to the validity of past marriages, it was 
 considered desirable to establish a system, and to 
 acknowledge the validity of all marriages previously 
 contracted. One couple were most unfortunately 
 situated : they had married and, ascertaining that 
 the marriage was not valid, had separated and 
 married other persons. They displayed great 
 anxiety lest the Act should validate their first 
 marriage, and thus make them retrospectively 
 bigamists. 
 
 At the time of this visit of mine to England, I 
 was also appointed Delegate for the Ionian Islands 
 to the International Statistical Congress then held 
 in London, under the presidency of Prince Albert 
 and Lord Brougham. Lord Brougham I had 
 known previously at Holland House, where I met 
 him more than once ; but it was the only occasion 
 on which I had the honour of speaking with the 
 Prince. 
 
 On my return, I was accompanied by Sir 
 Edward Lytton, to whom Sir Henry Storks had 
 offered the use of his country house, called the 
 " Casino," as he very much wished to see the 
 Ionian Islands. 
 
 Sir Edward Lytton's conversation was extra- 
 ordinarily interesting, and his studies were most 
 varied. There seemed to be scarcely a subject of 
 which he had not some knowledge, and often a 
 profound one. There was one story that he had 
 read in some book which he never was able to
 
 xxvi GREEK FORTUNE-TELLERS 297 
 
 find again. It was of a man who lived to an 
 advanced age. Wishing to be perfectly free, he 
 summoned his children and said, " I do not wish 
 to be troubled with you any longer. I shall 
 divide my property among you, reserving a certain 
 portion for myself. You need never expect that 
 share, as I shall leave it to the Church. All I 
 want is to be left alone." He then practised the 
 life that he thought conducive to longevity, and 
 finally attained the age of 150, when his teeth 
 and hair grew again. Elated by these circum- 
 stances, he married, but died almost immediately. 
 Sir Edward Lytton said he found this story in 
 an old book, and I recollect that he and I took 
 great pains to discover it. I wrote to Sir Antonio 
 Panizzi, who was one of the people most likely to 
 know ; but he did not recollect the story, and I 
 have never been able to find it. 
 
 Occult matters always interested Sir Edward 
 Lytton deeply, and through the instrumentality of 
 Sir Patrick Colquhoun, one of the Judges, who spoke 
 Greek fluently, he interviewed some fortune-tellers 
 who explained their methods of procedure. One 
 of these was to go at night into a shallow part of 
 the sea, where, strange to stay, they stated that 
 they were severely beaten by the Naiads. It is 
 curious how long this tradition survived in a Greek 
 community. The most popular book circulated in 
 Greece was the legendary history of Alexander 
 the Great. It attributed to him extraordinary and 
 sometimes supernatural adventures.
 
 298 GEOMANCY ch. 
 
 Sir Edward Lytton's feeling for the occult may 
 be seen principally in his novel of Zanoni, as well 
 as in one or two others of his works, notably The 
 Strange Sto?*y. He had learnt very thoroughly 
 one of the four compartments of necromancy, 
 namely geomancy. These compartments are aero- 
 mancy, the signs of the air, which foretells the 
 future by the flight of birds ; pyromancy, whereby 
 the future is found in the position of burning 
 coals ; hydromancy, in the circles formed when 
 stones are thrown into water in a particular 
 manner ; and geomancy, the art most practised at 
 the present day, which refers to a forecast of the 
 future by means of dots made in the sand. It is 
 mentioned by many English writers — by Chaucer 
 and Dryden — and is at present largely practised 
 in China, in the Soudan and in Egypt, where 
 its practitioners may daily be seen making signs in 
 the dust at the corners of the streets. Instead of 
 making marks on the earth itself, it has been the 
 habit in Europe — one may say for centuries — for 
 the marks to be made by pen or pencil on a sheet 
 of paper. Sometimes, indeed, dice have been used, 
 but this is not a favourite method. Several books 
 on geomancy have been produced at different 
 periods. I am in possession of three. One, 
 which I think is the best known, is La Geomance 
 du Seigneur Christqfe de Cattan, Gentilhomme 
 Geneuois. Liure non moins plaisant et recreatif, 
 que dingenieuse inuention, pour spauoir toutes 
 choses, preseutes, passees, et a aduenir. Auec la
 
 xxvi THE OCCULT 299 
 
 Roile de Pythagoras. Le tout mis en lumiere par 
 
 Gabriel du Preau ; et par luy dedie a monsieur 
 
 Nicot, Conseiller du Roy, et maistre des Requestes de 
 
 V hostel. It was published in 1567, under privilege 
 
 from the King, which is given in full. Another was 
 
 published in 1657 by the Sieur de Peruchio. I have 
 
 also a very curious one in manuscript. It was 
 
 written by the astrologer of Diane de Poitiers and 
 
 is in black-letter. On the outside of the book is 
 
 her device of three crossed crescents. 
 
 The great professors of the art assert for 
 
 geomancy the widest possible extension to all 
 
 subjects : — 
 
 Vita, lucrum, fratres, geniti, nati, valetudo, 
 Uxor, mors, pietas, regnum benefactaque, career. 
 
 These two hexameters give a name to each of 
 the twelve houses. 
 
 This was the distraction that Sir Edward Lytton 
 often sought in the intervals of business and study. 
 Seeing that I was very much interested in the 
 subject, he gave me at Corfu a summary of the art 
 whereby I was enabled to study the rudiments, 
 while waiting for the purchase of the principal 
 authorities on the subject. Whether true or not, 
 the study is very interesting. It may not be 
 inappropriate here to copy Sir Edward Lytton's 
 Memorandum, as it also gives a general knowledge 
 of the system. Before doing so, however, I think 
 it desirable shortly to explain, from the books I 
 have mentioned, the means by which this system 
 of divination is carried out.
 
 300 MONSIEUR DE CATTAN ch. 
 
 " Geomancy," according to M. de Cattan, " is a 
 science and an art which consists of points and 
 lines representing the four elements and the stars 
 and planets of the sky. . . . The instruments 
 of this art are pen, ink and paper, or a small 
 stick, and earth, dust, or well-cleaned sand. This 
 method was used by the Chaldeans, Persians, 
 Hebrews, and Egyptians before ink and paper were 
 invented. The science therefore retains the name 
 of geomancy. At present the best system of 
 practising it is with pen, ink, and paper ; to use 
 one's fingers or beans or grain, as is done by the 
 women of Boulogne who want news of their 
 absent friends, and as is still done in Italy, does 
 not please me, nor is it certain in its method. 
 . . . When the questioner makes the dots to form 
 his figure, he must only think of the question for 
 which he makes that figure. First he must make 
 four lines of dots to resemble the first fingers of the 
 left hand, but without counting. Nevertheless he 
 must be sure that he has made at least fourteen 
 dots in each line. The first will be long, like the 
 first finger, called the ' index ' ; the second longer, 
 like the second finger, named the ' medius ' ; the 
 third shorter, in the manner of the third finger, 
 called ' medicus ' ; the fourth smaller than all the 
 others, like the little finger, called ' auricularis ' ; 
 and thus he must form sixteen lines divided into 
 four sets as above. He must not move his 
 hand from the paper, or from the table, earth, or 
 sand which he may be using, until he has finished
 
 xxvi CONSTRUCTION OF FIGURE 301 
 
 the sixteen lines, keeping in his heart, while moving 
 his hand, the question for which the figure is 
 made." In each group, the first line is dedicated 
 to fire, the second to air, the third to water, and 
 the fourth to earth. When the figure is com- 
 plete, each group of four lines is dedicated in a 
 similar way to the four elements. 
 
 The figure is then constructed in the following 
 manner, and the explanation will be clearer if refer- 
 ence is made to Lord Lytton's experimental figure 
 (see p. 317). When the lines are made, the number 
 of dots in each line is to be added up, and if the 
 result is an odd number, one dot is to be placed at 
 the end of it ; if an even number, two dots. The 
 first figure on the right-hand side comes from the 
 first group of four lines, the second from the 
 second, the third from the third, and the fourth 
 from the fourth. In order to make the second 
 group of figures, take the dots laterally from right 
 to left of the first four figures, and repeat this pro- 
 cess by taking laterally the dots of the second, third, 
 and fourth lines. You thus obtain eight so-called 
 "Houses." To make the ninth and tenth, add 
 together the dots of the first and second, and of the 
 third and fourth houses respectively, marking odd 
 and even as before. To obtain the eleventh house, 
 add together the dots contained in the fifth and 
 sixth houses, and the twelfth house by adding the 
 dots contained in the seventh and eighth. 
 
 Having thus formed twelve " Houses," you 
 obtain two " Witnesses.' The witness on the right
 
 302 WITNESSES AND JUDGE chxxvi 
 
 is formed by adding together the dots of the ninth 
 and tenth houses, and the witness on the left is in 
 a similar way produced by the eleventh and twelfth 
 houses. The " Judge " is formed by the combina- 
 tion of the two witnesses.
 
 CHAPTER XXVII 
 
 Lord Lytton's Memorandum 
 
 GEOMANCY 
 
 The figures : — 
 
 Acquisitio Fortuna Major Fortuna Minor 
 
 • • 
 
 Dragon's Head Dragons Tail Lcctitia Tristitiu 
 
 • • 
 
 • • 
 
 Popidus 
 
 Via 
 
 Conjunctio 
 
 Puer 
 
 Puella 
 
 Career 
 
 Amissio 
 
 Albus 
 
 Rubens 
 
 303 
 
 16 Jig arcs.
 
 304 SIGNIFICATION OF FIGURES ch. 
 
 The good figures generally are : — 
 
 6 figures. 
 The bad : — 
 
 4 figures. 
 though not bad, is a sign of Mars, and in 
 
 certain houses signifies quarrel. 
 
 The figures more indifferent are : — 
 
 Figures, however, vary in signification, first, 
 according to their House, next, according to con- 
 junctions and aspects, and each has a more peculiar 
 meaning according to the question asked. 
 
 There are twelve Houses made by the twelve 
 figures, besides the two Witnesses and Judge. 
 
 SIGNIFICATION OF HOUSES 
 
 1st House relates to the personnel of the questioner. 
 2nd House relates to his house, to things movable, to 
 
 what may shortly happen ; also indirectly to his 
 
 affections, wishes, etc. 
 3rd House relates to brothers, sisters, letters, short 
 
 journeys.
 
 xxvii THE TWELVE HOUSES 305 
 
 4th House relates to parents, legacies, the end of life, and 
 the final result of things inquired into : generally 
 also to things secret and hidden. It is under 
 Saturn. 
 
 5th House relates to children, to pleasures,' to light loves, 
 to society, parties, etc. It is under Venus. 
 
 6th House relates to illness, to servants. 
 
 7th House relates to marriage, to wife or husband, to a 
 partner in any business or enterprise, and to the 
 special object asked, whatever that may be. For 
 instance, " Shall I see Mr. Jones soon ? " or " Is it 
 good to buy that estate ? " you would look to the 
 7th House as forming the direct object of the 
 question, though in connection with other Houses 
 more especially devoted to the nature of the 
 objects. The 7th House would thus denote Mr. 
 Jones, or the estate. 
 
 8th House relates to death, and advisers of married 
 people and partners ; also wars and public enemies. 
 
 9th House relates to clerical matters, clergy, all that 
 relates to religion, also to letters and to long 
 j ourneys. 
 
 10th House relates to honours, distinctions, etc. 
 
 11th House relates to friends. 
 
 12th House — a bad house — private enemies, perils, afflic- 
 tions ; also beasts, wild or tame ; injury or profit 
 by them, etc. You would look to this House 
 for the question, " Will the horse I have bought 
 turn out well ? " 
 
 Of these Houses, the strongest and most 
 influential are the 1st, 4th, 7th, 10th. These, in 
 fact, are the four fatal angles in astrology. The 
 Houses most weak are the 3rd, Gth, and 9th. The 
 importance of bad figures is increased when found 
 in the strong Houses ; also the importance of 
 good ones. 
 
 vol. i x
 
 306 INTERPRETATION ch. 
 
 Some figures, however good, lose their nature 
 and become bad in certain Houses according to 
 certain questions, and vice versa. For instance, 
 Acquisitio, excellent in most Houses (especially 1st 
 and 2nd), when in the 8th House signifies Death, 
 if the question relate to a death (more especially if 
 the 6th and 10th Houses have bad figures). Thus, 
 " Shall I gain that property ?" 
 
 in the 1st House, repeated in 7th House (the House 
 of the object), you have every chance to gain it, 
 provided the other Houses and Judge do not 
 greatly contradict. But, " Will my poor gardener 
 die of this illness ? " Acquisitio in the 8th House 
 would denote "Yes." Suppose in the 6th House 
 (of sickness) there is 
 
 in the 7th House the object, that is the gardener, 
 
 in the 8th Acquisitio ; in the 10th 
 
 * • 
 
 ' . ' (Albus) 
 the answer would be, " It appears to be dropsy or
 
 xxvii PRACTICE ESSENTIAL 307 
 
 vitiated humours," Populus being the sign of the 
 moon direct, which indicates such diseases. It is 
 likely to be lingering, attended with confinement, 
 much weariness and distress, denoted by Career 
 in 7th House (House of object). He probably 
 will die of it, but, at last, peacefully and happily, 
 
 being in the 10th House, which being in 
 
 sextile to the 8th should be always consulted in 
 looking to the 8th House. Now Albus and 
 Acquisitio are in themselves good figures, yet here 
 they are the characters of doom. More on this 
 head I will say in describing each figure, but the 
 best way is to make several schemes, learning 
 the names of the figures as set down above and 
 the general properties, and then I will help to 
 construe them. Practice is essential, and experience 
 modifies mistakes. 
 
 In looking at my general figures, you look first 
 at the four angles, viz. 1st, 4th, 7th and 10th 
 Houses, which in much determine the general 
 nature and character of the scheme. For they are 
 very good. Their power counteracts what is bad 
 in the weaker Houses, and vice versa. 
 
 The next thing to consult is what astrologers 
 call "the conjunction." This in geomancy is 
 found in the immediate neighbour to the figure 
 asked, and the figure that is formed by summing 
 the two together. Thus, " Shall I admit that 
 Roman Catholic into my house ? '
 
 308 CONJUNCTION ch. 
 
 2nd House 1st House 
 
 These two conjoined form 9th House, being 
 
 the sum of the two conjoined, and also House of 
 religious matters. Answer : " You have kind 
 motives in that notion. You yourself are frank, 
 easy and unsuspicious. The person you would 
 introduce will be treacherous and wily. You would 
 be involved in religious differences that would give 
 you vexation and annoyance, and might linger long 
 in effect." Such would be the answer unless the 
 other figures contradicted or softened it, and the 
 answer is given for these reasons. 
 
 The Dragon's Head, the signification of the 
 
 • 
 
 sun, is in your 1st House and relates to yourself. 
 It is frank, open, generous in its character. The 
 Dragons Tail in your 2nd House is the reverse. 
 The two conjoined make Career, which finds itself 
 in the House of Religion and denotes weariness, 
 cunning, hitch, and lengthened trouble. 
 
 Aspects. — You look next to Aspects, which 
 besides the four great angles — 1st, 4th, 7th and 
 10th — are formed by the figure twice removed 
 (next but one) from that in which the question 
 is asked. Example : " Will my sister's intrigue
 
 xxvn ASPECTS 309 
 
 be found out, and will my father be angry ?" 
 
 Suppose Puer in the 3rd House (of brothers 
 
 and sisters), and you find in the 5th House, next 
 
 but one to it Dragon's Head, and in the 
 
 4th House (House of Parents) Rubens, the 
 
 answer would be, judging by the aspects in sextile, 
 viz. the 5th House : " The intrigue will be brought 
 to light and make great scandal. Your father will be 
 so furious that he could almost kill your sister." The 
 
 • 
 
 answer is given because the in the sister's 
 
 House, Mars indirect, shows illicit love, liable to 
 anger. The aspect in the 5th is the sign of the 
 House which, though usually good in itself, de- 
 notes publicity, and, in this question, so posited, 
 scandal. Rubens is in the father's House — a 
 sign of deadly wrath. 
 
 But a figure is generally told without much 
 necessity to look at the alternate aspects. The 
 main decision is formed by the four angular 
 Houses, the Judge, the Witnesses. The two 
 Witnesses signify — the first one to the right, things 
 within you, subjective; the second, things objective. 
 Sometimes they also signify, the one, the tilings
 
 310 THE JUDGE ch. 
 
 for you, the other, the things against. These 
 varieties of construction depend on the general 
 experience and skill of the geomancer. The 
 Judge sums up, and is of immense importance in 
 deciding the figure, though if the four angles be 
 good his evil response is not necessarily fatal to 
 your wish. A good Judge, however, neutralises 
 much that is bad in the figure. Whenever the 
 Judge is an odd figure, such as 
 
 the scheme is torn up and rejected altogether, and 
 no one on the same subject should be made that 
 day, or, at all events, that hour. Better wait at 
 least a day. Whenever Rubens appears in the 
 1st House, the figure is not proceeded with, but 
 destroyed. The same rule for delay in making a 
 new one applies. 
 
 CHARACTERS OF FIGURES 
 
 Acquisitio, implies gain, both in money, 
 
 in schemes — in the object asked. It is good in 
 all Houses but the 8th. 
 
 Amissio, loss, is just the reverse, and not 
 
 • « 
 
 good even in the 8th House, though not, of itself,
 
 xxvii GOOD FIGURES 311 
 
 fatal in that. It is, however, a tolerable sign, of 
 itself, in the 12th House (of enemies), implying 
 that enemies are not strong. But supposing it 
 were both in the 12th and the 2nd Houses, it 
 would imply that you have an enemy in your 
 own house or immediately about you from whom 
 you will suffer loss. 
 
 Dragons Head, is a sign of truth, of open- 
 ness and of gentleness, excellent in the 7th House, as 
 for marriage and the character of wife and husband. 
 In the 10th House (of honours) it signifies distinction, 
 fame, but not positive honours or worldly rank. For 
 
 instance, should be in the 10th of Spenser, 
 
 who had neither honours nor wealth, but who had 
 publicity and fame. 
 
 But ' Fortuna Major, signifies great good- 
 fortune, or great good-luck ; if in the 1st and 10th 
 Houses, and not otherwise contradicted, it shows a 
 brilliant and fortunate career. It is good of itself 
 in all Houses — Jove direct. 
 
 Fortuna Minor, is a movable, unsteady 
 
 sign. It is luck, but not permanent luck. In the 
 10th House it would show brief and flashy success
 
 312 POPULUS ch. 
 
 or honours. In love and marriage, it denotes hot 
 flames but inconstant. 
 
 • • 
 
 is good, or bad, according to the figure next 
 
 it with which it forms conjunction — very good, for 
 instance, if next to Fortuna Major, very bad if next 
 to Rubens or Dragon's Tail. It generally denotes 
 a multitude. If the question be " Shall I marry 
 
 So-and-So ? " and is in the 7th House, " Yes." 
 
 • • 
 
 It is good for marriage, which is supposed to bring 
 people together. It is bad for a question of love 
 because it is the moon's signification and denotes 
 change. " Does that woman still love me ? " 
 
 • 8th House : ' £°pulus 
 
 • • 7th House 
 
 • • • • 
 
 The answer by Conjunctio and the figure on the 
 7th would be : " She is already changing ; there is 
 love, but unsteady and fickle." Populus is good 
 in the House of friends (11th), bad in enemies 
 (12th). It means, "You have a great many." 
 Good in the 10th, of honours, if other figures are 
 good. 
 
 Via, is also a signification of the Moon. It 
 
 is more uncertain than Populus. It nearly 
 always denotes a going or passing away. But
 
 xxvn CARCER 313 
 
 in this going away there is some delay or 
 hitch. In the 3rd and 9th Houses (Houses of 
 journeys) it signifies a journey certainly, but per- 
 haps suspended or delayed on the road. It is 
 very bad in the 2nd House, indicating loss and 
 impoverishment ; bad in the 7th, whether the 
 question is on marriage or love ; good, according to 
 geomancers, generally in the 10th, where they con- 
 sider it denotes honours, but I have not observed 
 its effect in that House to be so good as alleged. 
 
 Career, bad in most Houses, vexation and 
 
 annoyance in 1st and 2nd, confinement and bring- 
 ing illness in 6th and 8th Houses ; disappointment 
 and weariness in society if in House 5 ; unsatis- 
 factory marriage and love in House 7 ; honours 
 intercepted and balked in House 8 ; in 12, foes 
 troublesome and wearing, but not powerful ; in 
 4th House, good for inheritance, and always good 
 for keeping a secret. 
 
 Puella, good for gaiety, love, amusement ; 
 
 in House 10, promotion or honours through female 
 influence. 
 
 Puer, good or bad according to the question : 
 
 trouble to hasty loves, and significant of hasty 
 anger. Good in war.
 
 314 THE WORST FIGURE ch. 
 
 Rubens, the worst of all figures, except in 
 
 war and contention. Suppose the question were, 
 " Will war be the end of this negotiation, and if 
 so will the war be honourable to England or not ? " 
 Then, Rubens in the 4th House (the end or result 
 of the thing demanded), if conjoined in the 8th 
 House to the Dragon's Head, 
 
 4th 3rd 
 
 gives Fortuna Major in the 10th House of 
 
 Honour. Thus Rubens, so conjoined, becomes 
 of itself favourable. " There will be war and with 
 great honour to England," provided the 7th House 
 (the object demanded about, viz. England) be 
 good, and that of enemies weak. Suppose, for 
 
 instance, there were or in the 7th 
 
 House, and in the 12th ; but suppose in the 
 
 7th House were Via, and in the 12th Fortuna 
 Major, and (the same) is in the 10th, and 
 
 * 
 
 the Judge were bad, the answer would be : " There
 
 xxvn WHEN CONJUNCTIO IS GOOD 315 
 
 will be war ; England will be defeated. She will 
 be put to flight (Via). The honours will be to 
 the enemy." Rubens is worst in the 2nd House. 
 He signifies violence, treachery, even murder if the 
 question relate to it. 
 
 Albus, is the signification of Mercury, 
 
 propitious. He is excellent in 1st and 2nd Houses, 
 good indeed in all ; in the 10th signifies honours 
 through literature, art, or oratory. He is mild 
 and a lover of peace. 
 
 Coiijunctio, bad in the 1st and 2nd Houses, 
 
 usually there denotes impoverishment ; but much 
 depends on the figure next him and in the 7th 
 and 10th Houses. He denotes the bringing people 
 and things together — reconciliation of friends and 
 enemies, recovery of things lost. In the 8th House 
 he is worse than even Acquisitio, and denotes 
 Death if the question relate to death ; but if to 
 marriage or partnership, not so. The 8th House 
 is that of advisers to married people or partners, 
 and if the question were, " Will my husband be 
 advised to be reconciled to me, or my partner to 
 forego litigation ? ' Conjunctio in the 8th House 
 would be good. 
 
 Dragons Tail, bad in all Houses, except in
 
 316 GOOD FOR A LOVER ch. 
 
 questions of war, of success in illicit love, and in 
 getting out of some horrid scrape. It is hasty, 
 perfidious, secret, very bad in 1st and 2nd Houses. 
 
 Lcetitia, is a sign of content and pleasure, 
 
 • • 
 
 not very profound nor constant. In the 5th House 
 it is excellent, but if the question be, " Will the 
 woman I love be constant ? " it would be unfavour- 
 able, as it implies a certain cooling of affection. 
 It is the signification of Venus retrograde. 
 
 Tristitia, on the contrary, though a very 
 
 bad sign in most things, signifying melancholy and 
 disappointment, is the best of all signs to a lover 
 in answer to a question of constancy. If, for in- 
 stance, you ask, " Will my marriage with So-and- 
 so be happy ? " Tristitia in the 7th House would 
 reply, " No, wretched." But if you ask, " Is my 
 wife or sweetheart constant and true in my 
 absence ? " then Tristitia in that same 7th House 
 answers, " Yes, most constant, and miserable at 
 your absence." Thus the same figures in the same 
 Houses vary in signification according to questions 
 asked, as well as according to aspects and conjunc- 
 tions. 
 
 If the above be carefully studied and learned, 
 the Art is begun, and the rest depends much on 
 practice, and somewhat on a talent for generalising 
 and harmonising details. I say nothing of a peculiar
 
 xxvii EXPERIMENTAL FIGURE 
 
 317 
 
 gift ; but some are naturally more lucky in con- 
 jecture than others. 
 
 EXPERIMENTAL FIGURE 
 
 Will England 
 
 go 
 
 to war with the 
 Emperor Napoleon 
 III. soon; or within 
 any reasonable time 
 deducible from 
 circumstances at 
 present in opera- 
 tion ?
 
 318 LORD LYTTON'S DEDUCTION ch. 
 
 England is, and will be, for some little time 
 varying and fickle in her inclinations. But she will 
 before very long be much more peacefully disposed 
 towards the Emperor. Those immediately in her 
 counsels are for peace. Female influences will be 
 for peace, and religious influences not less. There 
 will be, nevertheless, many noisy and clamorous 
 opponents to a peaceful policy who will have 
 sympathy with the populace. They will fail. Some 
 causes are now at work to produce a much more 
 cheerful state of things and of feeling between 
 England and France than appears even possible 
 at this moment. Singularly enough some act of 
 violence or treachery on the part of some sub- 
 ordinate agent, whether public servant or other 
 subject in France, will conduce to a reaction of 
 kindly feeling between the two countries. The 
 Emperor himself is or will be more than ever 
 anxious to cement the alliance : his confidential 
 advisers will heartily agree with him. The alliance 
 will be confirmed. There is much more unsteadi- 
 ness in the sentiment of England towards friendship 
 with France than in that of the Emperor towards 
 cordiality with England. The Emperor is bent 
 upon it. With this renewed or re-strengthened 
 alliance there will come a something that will soothe 
 our national vanity, a something that will cause 
 demonstrations of rejoicing. But, in substance, the 
 alliance will inflict on us not actual discredit, but a 
 certain loss that will be felt hereafter. The peace 
 thus cemented will be imposed on us by the force
 
 xxvii DESIRE FOR PEACE 319 
 
 of circumstances not now foreseen, and by the 
 pertinacious resolve of the French Emperor : its 
 necessity is so strongly implied that even if, in spite 
 of all signs to the contrary, the fickle irresolution or 
 fear of the English, and some popular bravado, 
 should cause sudden hostility, zve should be quickly 
 the lose?' and as quickly bent on reconciliation. 
 But apparently the people themselves, even when 
 most warlike in talk, are in heart peaceful, and 
 would be the first to denounce their rulers if 
 plunged into quarrel with France. 
 
 It will not be long before this change of feeling 
 will make itself known. If a Congress takes place 
 it will greatly tend to reconcile distrustful nations, 
 and either a Congress or some such proceeding will 
 take effect. There will be a great abandonment of 
 military preparations. Financial distress may con- 
 tribute to this. There will be peace, and a peace 
 policy established in England with all its con- 
 comitant measures for «;ood or for evil. 
 
 I suspect that the Emperor himself is resolved 
 to pacify Europe ; that he is alarmed at its present 
 aspect ; that he will find an auxiliary to some 
 scheme that may conduce to a general disarmament 
 in the pecuniary difficulties of other nations, and 
 their absolute necessity for retrenchment ; and that 
 in this scheme it is necessary for him to secure the 
 co-operation of England, and that he will secure it. 
 If peace be thus secured, and military preparations 
 thus abandoned, the enemy to England will become 
 her own popular or democratic party, and the end
 
 320 THE JUDGES MEANING ch. xxvii 
 
 of all will be popular concessions of a nature 
 ultimately very injurious to the country. Such I 
 conjecture to be the loss or damage which "the 
 Judge" in the figure denotes as the result of 
 that peaceful policy which the scheme so notably 
 predicates. 
 
 This was written in the autumn of 1860.
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII 
 
 Wheel of Pythagoras — Improved method of divination — Occult in 
 Egypt — Incident at Madrid — Mr. Sturges Bourne's experience 
 
 It may be as well here to mention the Wheel of 
 Pythagoras — a mode of divination which, in all the 
 authorities, follows the description of geomancy. 
 It is called the Wheel of Pythagoras or the Wheel 
 of Fortune, but its revelations are limited to one par- 
 ticular question, and do not give a general scheme 
 of life, as is done by geomancy. M. Peruchio gives 
 this example of a question to be asked : " Marie 
 demande u?i jour de lundi si Fhilandre I epousera" 
 and to this the Wheel of Pythagoras gives a reply. 
 The following is the formula given for asking 
 questions : — 
 
 (1) A number must be given by the enquirer. 
 
 (2) The number attaching to the first letter of 
 
 the name of the querist. 
 
 (3) The number of the planet of the day on 
 
 which the question is asked. 
 
 (4) The number of the day on which the question 
 
 is asked. 
 The whole must be divided by 30, and the re- 
 mainder gives the answer. If there be no remainder, 
 the answer is 30, which is bad. 
 
 VOL. I 321 y
 
 322 
 
 WHEEL OF PYTHAGORAS 
 
 CH. 
 
 Subjoined is a copy of the Wheel, and of the 
 numbers belonging respectively to the planets and 
 to the days of the week. 
 
 P LAN ETTES 
 
 OP fyitir. 
 S^V Mars. 
 
 &*L USohl 
 VrlF 
 
 O Mercure. 
 LaLune. 
 
 7 I. 
 
 114. 
 
 lours de la Sepmmne. 
 
 leuJy. V- 
 
 A tardy. J*. 
 
 Drniancfie. 10S. 
 
 Veniiedy. 48. 
 
 Alercredj. joa- 
 
 LunJy. f~~
 
 xxvm ELABORATED SYSTEM 323 
 
 The system, however, has been extended, and it 
 is said that the answers are positive and correct. 
 As the first number is optional, means have been 
 found of giving it a greater value. Arithmetic 
 being an exact science, a method has been devised 
 of converting into numerals words which when 
 written are ordinary characters of no specific value. 
 In figures, each figure has an independent value. 
 Letters have no independent value. For instance, 
 1 2 separately have an independent value ; together 
 12 have another value, a and b, however, separ- 
 ately have no signification any more than ab. 
 Therefore by converting a and b into 1 and 2 the 
 precise answer is given to the query proposed. 
 A system has been devised by which words and 
 sentences can be converted into figures. It is, 
 therefore, for each person who wishes to practise 
 this art, to form for himself a vocabulary in words 
 which can be converted into figures. To give an 
 instance : — 
 
 The question may be, " Shall 1 inherit a 
 legacy?" The enquirer, having chosen his own 
 code, proceeds to turn those words into figures. 
 For this purpose we will take Slater's Telegraphic 
 Code, which, if chosen by the enquirer, must be 
 rigidly adhered to. 
 
 Shall = 20520 
 
 I =11101 
 
 inherit = 11871 
 
 a = 00001 
 
 legacy = 13130
 
 324 MEANING OF THE NUMBERS ch. 
 
 Add to this (1) the number of the initial letter of 
 the enquirers first name : this may be Katharine. 
 This, according to the Wheel, is represented by 
 16. Then add (2) the number of the day of the 
 week — say, Monday = 52. Add (3) the number of 
 the planet, in this case the Moon = 45. Add all 
 these together, and divide by 30. The number 
 remaining will be seen in the Wheel with its 
 signification. 
 
 20520 
 11101 
 11871 
 00001 
 13130 
 
 16 
 
 52 
 
 45 
 
 30) 56736 
 
 1891—6 
 
 The numbers on the left-hand side of the upper 
 part of the Wheel— 1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 9, 11, 13, 14— are 
 good: on the lower part of the Wheel — 5, 6, 8, 12, 15, 
 19, 23 — are bad. Taking the right-hand side of the 
 Wheel, the upper part, the numbers 16, 17, 18, 20, 
 21, 24, 10, 26, 27 are good : on the lower part 22, 
 25, 28, 29, 30 are bad. Some authorities say that 
 the numbers on the left-hand side of the Wheel 
 are slow in execution, whether good or bad, while 
 those on the right side are quicker in operation.
 
 xxviii AN ODD EXPERIENCE 325 
 
 Two instances have made a very strong 
 impression on my mind in reference to occult 
 influences. 
 
 In Egypt in 1886, at the time when Mr. 
 Gladstone brought in his Home Rule proposals, 
 I made the acquaintance of some Egyptians, who 
 are great students of the occult. They suggested 
 that a woman called the Sheikha, well known for 
 her powers of divination, should be brought from 
 Alexandria to see me. One evening I met her at 
 a friend's house. All the household was sitting 
 round a brazier filled with live coals. The Sheikha 
 then came in, wearing a very thick yashmak, 
 leaning dramatically on the shoulder of a little 
 female slave. 
 
 We all sat round the brazier, into which the 
 Sheikha threw a few perfumes — the general pre- 
 liminary, I find, in the East to all supernatural 
 matters. 
 
 I was told, if I wanted any information about 
 myself, to give her something that I had worn, 
 such as a glove or handkerchief. This I did, and 
 she certainly told me some remarkable things 
 about my past. I did not pay much attention to 
 this, however, as I was at that moment well known 
 in Egypt, and matters concerning me might have 
 become public. 
 
 I was then informed if I wanted to be told 
 about any one else to give the Sheikha a small 
 silver piece, and at the same time to think of the 
 person I had in view, without mentioning the
 
 326 SECOND SIGHT ch. 
 
 name to any one. I gave her a two-piastre piece, 
 and inwardly thought of Mr. Gladstone. 
 
 The Sheikha said : " This is a man far over 
 the sea, and of great influence and power in the 
 Medjlis [Council]. He is now in office, but he 
 is very sad [sadfisss is the word always used in the 
 East to translate annoyance] because he feels that 
 he must soon leave office, and that by an act he 
 has just performed he has done injury both to 
 himself and to his friends." 
 
 I then gave her another coin, thinking of Lord 
 Salisbury. 
 
 She said : " This man is also far over the sea, 
 and very powerful in the Medjlis. He is not in 
 office now, but he soon will be in consequence of 
 the acts of the other man, who will have to retire. 
 He has been in power before, and he is coming 
 into much greater power now." A term was fixed 
 which proved correct. 
 
 After that, I gave her a third piece, and thought 
 of Lord Randolph Churchill. 
 
 The Sheikha said : " This man is also very 
 powerful in the Medjlis, and will be more so as he 
 is much younger than the others. He has already 
 occupied a great place, and will soon occupy a still 
 greater one." 
 
 I then pointed to the two coins representing 
 Mr. Gladstone and Lord Salisbury, and said : 
 " Which of those two is best affected to this young 
 man ? " In reply, she pointed to Mr. Gladstone's 
 coin.
 
 xxviii INCIDENT AT MADRID 327 
 
 My belief is that there always was consider- 
 able sympathy between Mr. Gladstone and Lord 
 Randolph Churchill. The day after this in- 
 cident occurred, I wrote an account of it to the 
 latter. 
 
 The other incident of the occult which has 
 happened to me is as follows : — 
 
 While at Madrid I was very anxious about a 
 person in whom I felt great interest. One day, 
 when about to drive, I went down the staircase 
 of the Embassy. There was a door in the hall 
 leading to a short staircase into the street. As I 
 opened this door, a telegram was brought to me 
 from the solicitors of the person above alluded to, 
 asking me about a most urgent matter, and saying 
 that unless a reply was received at once some 
 very painful circumstances might occur. The tele- 
 graphic address, let us say, of these solicitors was 
 " Rehearsal," while that of my own solicitors we 
 will call "Annual" I went into a small room 
 near the door leading to the chancellery and wrote 
 a telegraphic reply, giving it to my English 
 servant to take at once to the telegraph -office. 
 This lie did. I then took my drive, came home 
 rather late, dined, and went to bed between eleven 
 and twelve o'clock. 
 
 That night 1 could not sleep — not with the 
 usual sensation of being unable to sleep, though 
 tired, but with a feeling of complete wakefulness. 
 This went on for some time. Then, all of a 
 sudden, I recollected a story I had heard years
 
 328 WAKEFULNESS ch. 
 
 ago, relating to Mr. Sturges Bourne, who was 
 Home Secretary under Mr. Canning. 
 
 Mr. Bourne, who lived in the Birdcage Walk, 
 was one night affected with this same kind of 
 wakefulness. At last, becoming impatient, he got 
 up, dressed so as to take a walk, and went to the 
 Home Office. He had the key in his pocket, and 
 let himself in, proceeding to his own room. There, 
 on his desk, he found a pardon he had signed that 
 day to remit the punishment of a criminal who 
 was to be executed the very next morning at 
 Maidstone, I believe. In those days there were, 
 of course, no railways or telegraphs. He rang his 
 bell, and desired a messenger to take a postchaise 
 immediately and to drive down to Maidstone as 
 quickly as possible with the pardon. He arrived 
 just in time. 
 
 It struck me that something of the same kind 
 might have occurred with regard to the telegram 
 I had despatched. 
 
 I rang for my English servant and asked 
 him to whom I had addressed the telegram 
 he had taken the previous afternoon. He 
 said, "To * Annual." It should have been to 
 " Rehearsal." 
 
 I wrote another telegram, addressing it to 
 " Rehearsal," and desired my servant at once to go 
 down to the post-office in one of the cabs which 
 roam about the streets of Madrid at night, and, 
 as the Embassy had certain privileges, to ring up 
 the officials and have my message despatched. He
 
 xxvm AN EMPHATIC TELEGRAM 329 
 
 came back with my original telegram addressed to 
 "Annual," and a further telegram from "Rehearsal," 
 that had just arrived, urging me in the strongest 
 terms to answer immediately his communication 
 of the morning.
 
 CHAPTER XXIX 
 
 Ionian Education Commission — University — Exhibition at Corfu — 
 Florence — London Exhibition of 1862 — Hughenden — Mr. Babbag-e 
 — Visit to a medium. 
 
 In 1861, a Commission was instituted to enquire 
 into the state of public education in the Ionian 
 Islands, with a view to suggesting changes in the 
 existing system. The whole question was one 
 with which the Ionians were well acquainted. 
 
 At the time when the Islands came under our 
 protection, Lord Guilford spent a large sum of 
 money on founding a University at Corfu, which 
 became the principal educational centre for Greeks. 
 It had at first been intended to build it in Ithaca ; 
 but, owing to the influence of Sir Thomas Mait- 
 land, the High Commissioner, in whose time the 
 scheme made but little progress, it was transferred 
 to Corfu. Lord Guilford for a long time took a 
 leading part in its management, and it received 
 considerable assistance from Sir Frederick Adam, 
 Sir Thomas Maitland's successor, whose adminis- 
 tration was most fortunate for the interest of the 
 Islands. 
 
 Some of the best-known writers in Greece had
 
 ch.xxix CORFU UNIVERSITY 331 
 
 been educated at Corfu University — amongst others, 
 M. Tricoupis, the famous Greek historian, who was 
 afterwards Minister in London. I knew him well, 
 and his son, M. Charilaus Tricoupis, who also 
 became Minister in London, and subsequently 
 Minister for Foreign Affairs in Greece. There 
 were also some very distinguished writers, natives 
 of Corfu, one of whom, Sir Peter Braila, after- 
 wards went to London as Minister ; Sir Andrea 
 Mustoxidi, subsequently Archon, or Director of 
 Public Instruction, and Mr. Zambelli, who was 
 well known in Italy as a writer, and who was 
 much appreciated by Mr. Gladstone. He under- 
 stood English perfectly. Another gentleman, 
 much admired in Italv for his literarv skill, was 
 the Chevalier Tipaldo Pretenderi. 
 
 I may here incidentally mention the curious fact 
 that in Cephalonia there are only two surnames, 
 Tipaldo and Metaxa. One district is called 
 •• Metaxata." The Tipaldos boast descent from 
 the Crusaders. In order to distinguish people of 
 the same name, different families adopted what may 
 be called separate nicknames. There are Tipaldo 
 Pretenderi, Tipaldo Xidian, and many others. 
 
 Lord Guilford really conferred an enormous 
 benefit on the Ionian Islands by the foundation of 
 the University, on which it was said that he spent 
 1 1.5, 000 a year. He did all that was possible to 
 revive the Hellenic spirit. He used to wear 
 ancient Greek dress and sandals, in imitation of 
 Socrates.
 
 332 VISIT TO FLORENCE oh. 
 
 A Commission was at this time also issued for 
 collecting and transmitting specimens of the pro- 
 duce of the Ionian Islands to the Exhibition to be 
 held in London in 1802. Of this I was Vice- 
 President, and I went through the Islands with a 
 view to establishing local committees to concur 
 with the Commission. Towards the end of 1861 
 an Exhibition was held at Corfu of the objects 
 which were to be forwarded to England, and this 
 created great enthusiasm. It was held in one of 
 the large rooms at the University. Juries, both of 
 English and Ionians, were appointed to report on 
 the merits of the various exhibits, and a medal was 
 struck in commemoration of the occasion. 
 
 Just before the Exhibition was held in London, 
 I paid a short visit to Florence in order to study 
 methods of exhibiting goods at the Italian Exhibi- 
 tion that was being held in that city. There I 
 again met Sir James Hudson, with whom I was in 
 constant correspondence, and I witnessed the open- 
 ing of the Exhibition by King Victor Emmanuel. 
 A great feature of this ceremony was the singing 
 of Madame Piccolomini. 
 
 I was delegated Commissioner to the London 
 Exhibition of 1862, together with Mr. Marcoran, 
 a son of one of the Judges of the Supreme Court. 
 The Ionian part, for which we were responsible, 
 astonished not only those who visited it, but even 
 the Ionians themselves, who were amazed to find 
 that 177 exhibits had been sent from the various 
 islands. They were very much gratified at the
 
 xxix IONIAN EXHIBITS 333 
 
 number of medals and honourable mentions they 
 received. 
 
 Amongst other exhibits were pieces of em- 
 broidery. Ionians excel in this work. The dupli- 
 cate of a waist-band, which had been made for the 
 Empress of Austria when passing Corfu, was on view. 
 It measured exactly sixteen inches, and was said to 
 have been rather too large for Her Majesty. Em- 
 broidered tobacco-bags were also shown. Cereals 
 were exhibited, and many specimens of raw material, 
 stone, and timber. Amongst the jewellery were gold 
 hat-pins, such as the peasants wore, and rings with 
 the emblems of the Seven Islands. One especially 
 interesting exhibit was the mitre of a Greek bishop, 
 beautifully ornamented with gold. Cabinet-work 
 in jujube, acacia, and olive wood were also shown, 
 and tables of inlaid olive-wood, which the Ionians 
 were particularly skilful in making. Medals and 
 honourable mentions were gained for wine and 
 liqueurs. Oil and currants also obtained prizes, as 
 a public recognition of their established commercial 
 value. The honey of the Islands, especially that of 
 Cerigo, received the highest commendation, and the 
 wax, both of Corfu and Cephalonia, met with marked 
 success. One characteristic exhibit was a canoe, of 
 triangular shape, formed of bunches of the old 
 papyrus tied together. These boats are very much 
 used for fishing in the Ionian Islands, in the country 
 districts bordering the sea. I sent one of them to 
 the Kew Museum. 
 
 One article, though not prized, that attracted
 
 334 DEATH OF PRINCE CONSORT oh. 
 
 considerable notice, was the lace made at Cepha- 
 lonia of the fibre of American aloes. All exhibits 
 manufactured of this substance were sold, and appli- 
 cation was made to procure more articles of the same 
 material. The Exhibition, in fact, created some 
 demand for productions from the Ionian Islands. 
 I have, however, naturally been unable closely to 
 follow the progress that has since been made. 
 
 The success of the whole undertaking, though 
 great, was much clouded by the unhappy death of 
 the Prince Consort — who really was the inventor 
 of exhibitions. The Queen appointed the Duke of 
 Cambridge as her representative on the international 
 body, which was composed of delegates from various 
 nations, to receive the awards of the juries, and after- 
 wards to distribute the prizes. 
 
 Many interesting incidents occurred at the time 
 — amongst others the dinner given by the Colonial 
 Commissioners to Dr. Lindley, whom the Govern- 
 ment had appointed Head of the Colonial Depart- 
 ment in the Exhibition. It was attended by Sir 
 Edward Lytton, and brought forward very promi- 
 nently the whole of the Colonial Question, which 
 is now assuming such great proportions. Wine 
 was exhibited by a German firm which tasted good, 
 but was said to hold no particle of the grape. On 
 Mr. Gladstone testing it, he observed that this was 
 the highest kind of adulteration. The Germans 
 responded, " We are not adulterers, only chymists." 
 
 One of the most amusing features of the Ex- 
 hibition was the extraordinary English of a certain
 
 XXIX 
 
 MALAPROP 335 
 
 most useful person engaged in a subordinate 
 capacity. Once I asked him, in the presence of 
 friends, about some one who spoke with a foreign 
 accent, and who was also employed in the Exhi- 
 bition. He replied, " They say he is a 'Ungarian ; 
 but my belief is that he's a gallant, gay Lutheran." 
 He meant Lothario. 
 
 On another occasion, I asked him if he knew a 
 very peculiar-looking man, walking about the Ex- 
 hibition, whose face and hair were perfectly white, 
 with pink eyes. He replied, " I do not know him ; 
 but he's a regular Albanian." 
 
 Having sold a great many of the Ionian exhibits, I 
 organised a raffle for the remainder, and in this under- 
 taking I was greatly assisted by Lady Palmerston, 
 Mrs. Gladstone, and Lady Salisbury. 
 
 During the autumn of that year I received the 
 following kind letter from Lord Beaconsfield : — 
 
 Hughenden Manor, September 10, 1862. 
 
 Dear Commissioner — Assuming that your public duties 
 must, more or less, detain you in town, I would suggest that 
 you should, if disengaged, change the air a little for that of 
 the Chiltem Hills, which is invigorating. Would you give 
 us the pleasure of seeing you on Monday the 22nd, and 
 staying with us until the 25th, when Lord and Lady 
 Salisbury, whom you will meet, will unfortunately leave us. 
 
 I shall direct this to the International, where, I suppose, 
 it will reach you. — Yours faithfully, B. Disraeli. 
 
 U.S. V.P. 
 
 This was the first occasion on which 1 was a 
 guest at Hughenden, though later on, when I
 
 336 A MEDIUM ch. 
 
 entered more active politics, I more than once had 
 the opportunity of going there. I recollect that 
 one of the favourite places where Lord Beaconsfield 
 used to take his guests was Dropmore, for which 
 he had a great admiration. Lord and Lady 
 Salisbury, whom I had long known in Hertford- 
 shire and elsewhere, I visited frequently at Hatfield. 
 I did not make the acquaintance of the late Lord 
 Salisbury until 1864, after I had left the Ionian 
 Islands. 
 
 During the year of the Exhibition I saw a good 
 deal of Mr. Babbage, the great calculator. He 
 was always known for his hostility to barrel-organs, 
 and his name constantly appeared in the papers as 
 prosecuting performers on that instrument. The 
 calculating machine, which he had invented, was 
 exhibited, and he used to explain it himself, until 
 one day he gave up his attendance. I innocently 
 asked him why he was no longer seen at the 
 Exhibition, and he replied that he had been in- 
 sulted by one of the public. I asked him in what 
 manner. He said that in the midst of his explana- 
 tion some one had asked him the origin of his 
 hostility to barrel-organs. 
 
 One or two houses were constantly open to 
 Mr. Babbage — amongst others that of the Dowager 
 Duchess of Somerset. 
 
 In this year I had practical experience of a 
 medium who was making some sensation in 
 London. Mr. Chichester Fortescue, Mr. Kinglake, 
 Mr. Hayward and myself arranged a meeting with
 
 xxix AN UNCONVINCING SEANCE 337 
 
 him. I cannot say that he produced a great im- 
 pression on us, and what I recollect best is that he 
 would pronounce the word vase as though it rhymed 
 with face. I told Mr. Oliphant, then a professed 
 spiritualist, about this sitting, and said that we had 
 not been much struck with the medium. When 
 he heard who had been present he said, " What ! 
 You four ! It really was not fair upon the 
 poor man. Two would have been quite enough ! " 
 
 VOL. I
 
 CHAPTER XXX 
 
 Letter from General Garibaldi — His sufferings in 1862 — " A Suppressed 
 
 Despatch " 
 
 During my stay in London I received from Lord 
 Glenesk a most valuable present — the original letter 
 addressed to the People of England, from Vari- 
 gnano, by Garibaldi, after his being wounded at 
 Aspromonte, and when Dr. Partridge had been 
 sent from England to take care of him. This 
 letter, with a translation, was published at the 
 time in the Morning Post, but it may not be 
 uninteresting to reproduce it here. 
 
 ALLA NAZIONE INGLESE 
 
 Soffrente sotto raddoppiati colpi morali e fisici, V uomo 
 puo con ragione sentire piu squisitamente il bene e il male, 
 rigettare quindi alia maledizione i fautori del male, e con- 
 sacrare ai benefattori affetto e gratitudine senza limite. 
 
 Ed io ti devo gratitudine, o popolo Inglese, e la sento 
 quanto e capace di sentirla l 1 anima mia. Tu mi fosti amico 
 nella buona, e mi continui la preziosa tua amicizia nel- 
 P avversa fortuna. 
 
 Che Dio ti benedica ! La mia gratitudine poi e tanto 
 piu intensa, o buon popolo, eh' essa s' innalza debitamente al 
 di sopra del sentimento individuale e si sublima nel senti- 
 mento generate dei popoli, di cui tu rappresenti il progresso. 
 
 338
 
 ch. xxx GARIBALDI 339 
 
 Si ! tu meriti la gratitudine del mondo, perche tu offri 
 un asilo sicuro alio infortunio, da qualunque parte ti giunga, 
 e tu t 1 identifichi colla sciagura altrui — la compatisci — la 
 sollevi. II proscritto francese o napolitano trova nel tuo 
 seno un rifugio contra la tirannide — trova simpatia — trova 
 aiuto perche proscritto — perche infelice. Gli Heynau — i 
 ferrei carnefici dello autocrate — non saranno sorretti dal 
 suolo della tua libera patria, e fugiranno impauriti lo sdegno 
 tirannicida dei generosi tuoi figli. 
 
 ? E che sarremmo in Europa senza il tuo dignitoso 
 contegno ? L' Autocrazia colpisce i suoi proscritti nelle 
 altrui contrade ove la liberta e bastarda — ove la liberta e 
 menzogna ! Ma si vada a cercare sulla sacra terra d'Albione ! 
 Io ! come tanti, vedendo la causa della giustizia conculcata 
 in tanti parti del mondo, propendo alia disperazione del 
 progresso umano. Ma rivolgendo a te il mio pensiero mi 
 tranquillo dal tranquillo, impavido tuo procedere verso la 
 meta ove sembra chiamata la razza umana dalla Providenza. 
 
 Prosegui il tuo cammino, o Nazione invitta, imperturbata, 
 e sii meno restia nel chiamare le sorelle nazioni sulla via 
 umanitaria. 
 
 Chiama la Nazione francese a co-operatrice tua ! Ambe 
 siete degne di marciare, dandovi la mano, alia vanguardia 
 dello incivilimento umano. Ma chiamala ! In tutti i tuoi 
 meet'mg risuoni la parola di concordia delle due grande sorelle. 
 Chiamala ! Chiamala pure in ogni modo, colla tua voce e 
 colla voce dei suoi grandi proscritti — del suo Vittore Hugo — 
 il Pontefice della fratellanza umana ! Dille che le conquiste 
 sono un 1 aberrazione del secolo — un emanazione di mente non 
 sana ! ? E perche dovremmo noi conquidere la terra altrui, 
 quando tutti dobbiamo esser fratelli ? Chiamala ! e non 
 curarti se dessa sia temporariamente padroneggiata dal 
 genio del male — essa rispondera debitamente — se non oggi 
 — domani ! se non domani — dopo ! alia parola tua generosa 
 e rigeneratrice. 
 
 Chiama, e subito, i forti figli della Elvezia, e stringili al 
 tuo seno indissolubilmente. I bellicosi figli delle Alpi — i 
 vestali del fuoco sacro di liberta nel continento europeo, 
 saranno teco. E che contingente !
 
 340 THE MISSION OF ENGLAND ch. 
 
 Chiania la grande repubblica Americana. Essa finalmente 
 e tua figlia, sorta dal tuo grembo — ed essa — comunque sia — 
 si affatica oggi per l 1 abolizione della schiavitu da te generosa- 
 mente proclamata. Aiutala a sollevarsi dalla terribile lotta 
 che le suscitarono i mercanti di carne umana. Aiutala — 
 e poscia falla sedere al tuo lato nel gran consesso delle 
 Nazioni — opera finale della ragione umana. 
 
 Chiama a te quanti popoli hanno libero il volere — e non 
 tardare un sol giorno. La iniziativa che ti appartiene oggi 
 potrebbe non esser piu tua domani. Che Iddio non permetta 
 cotesto ! 
 
 Chi piu gagliardamente aft'erro quella iniziativa quanto la 
 Francia del 1 89 ? Essa in quel punto solenne diede al mondo 
 la Dea Ragione, rovescio nella polve la tirannide, e consacro 
 tra le Nazioni la libera fratellanza. Dopo quasi un secolo 
 essa e ridotta a combattere la liberta dei popoli — proteggere 
 le tirannidi — sulle rovine del tempio dalla Ragione essa si 
 affatica a puntellare quella mostruosita nefanda-immorale 
 che si chiama Papato ! 
 
 Sorgi dunque, o Britannia, e non perdere tempo. Sorgi 
 colla fronte alta ed addita alle Nazioni la via da percorrere. 
 
 Non piii guerra possibile ove un congresso mondiale possa 
 giudicare delle differenze insorte tra le Nazioni ! Non piu 
 eserciti stanziali con cui la liberta e impossibile. Che bombe ! 
 Che corazze ! Vanghe e macchine da falciare ! Ed i milliardi 
 sprecati in apparati di distruzione vengano impiegati a fomen- 
 tare le industrie e a diminuire le miserie umane. 
 
 Comincia, o popolo inglese, e — per amor di Dio ! — co- 
 mincia la grande era del patto umano e benefica le presenti 
 generazioni con tanto dono. Oltre la Svizzera, il Belgio, &c, 
 che aderiranno subito al tuo invito, tu vedrai gli altri Stati — 
 spinti dal buon senso delle populazioni — accorrere alio am- 
 plesso tuo ed aggregarsi. 
 
 Sia Londra per ora la sede del Congresso che sara scelta 
 susseguentemente con mutuo intendimento e convenienza. 
 
 Io ti ripeto, che Dio ti benedica ! ! ! E a te possa rimeri- 
 tare i benefizi a me prodigati. 
 
 Con gratitudine ed affetto, tuo, G. Garibaldi.
 
 xxx GARIBALDI'S SUFFERINGS 341 
 
 The following note appears at the end of the 
 letter : — 
 
 Mon cher Mr. Borthwick — Je vous adresse la lettre que le 
 General Garibaldi a ecrit au peuple anglais. Je vous prie de 
 la publier dans votre estimable journal et tres-repandu. II 
 va mieux. Par le rapport du Dr. Partridge vous saurez 
 comme cette forte constitution de lion a su gagner et vaincre 
 la gravite du mal. 
 
 Je vous serre la main affectueusement, et je vous prie 
 d'agreer mes sentiments les plus distingues. 
 
 C. Augusto Viechi. 
 
 Vabignano, Sept. 28, 1862. 
 
 At this passage of his life, Garibaldi writes in his 
 Autobiography with a certain amount of bitter- 
 ness as to the manner in which he was treated by 
 the Sardinian Government. 
 
 It is hateful to me to relate the miseries I had to endure ; 
 but enough were inflicted on me on that occasion to have 
 created disgust even in the mind of a scavenger. ... It is 
 true that they used those commonplace courtesies which are 
 customary even towards great criminals when led to the 
 scaffold ; but, for instance, instead of leaving me in a hospital 
 at Reggio or Messina, I was placed on board a frigate and 
 taken to Varignano, thus being forced to sail the whole length 
 of the Tyrrhene sea, with the greatest torture to the wound 
 in my right foot, which, though not mortal, was assuredly 
 one of a most painful character. . . . My sufferings were 
 great, and great also the kind care of my friends. It was 
 the illustrious Professor Zanetti, the doyen of Italian sur- 
 geons, who successfully achieved the operation of extracting 
 the ball. 
 
 I twice saw Garibaldi — but not to speak to him. 
 The first time was in England, and the second
 
 342 A SUPPRESSED STATE PAPER ch. 
 
 while he was driving through the streets of 
 Florence, dressed in a red shirt. 
 
 In 1863, I received anonymously the following 
 curious paper, purporting to be a suppressed 
 despatch, the reply of Cardinal Antonelli to state- 
 ments appearing in the Blue-book, "The Corre- 
 spondence relative to the Affairs of Rome." 
 
 A Suppressed Despatch 
 
 " The Correspondence relative to the Affairs of Rome" pre- 
 sented to both Houses of Parliament, by command of Her 
 Majesty, containing no mention whatever of an important 
 State Paper, by Cardinal Antonelli, other and less regular 
 channels of publicity are unavoidably sought. In order 
 to mitigate, as far as possible, the inconvenience of a 
 separate publication, a few extracts are prefixed to the 
 Roman Despatch. They will be found to include a sum- 
 mary of Earl Russell's case, in his own written and official 
 words, together with some passages from Ministerial 
 speeches, which appear necessary to render the sequel 
 intelligible. 
 
 Extract from Earl RusselVs Despatch to Earl Cozdey, 
 dated Eoreign Office, January 19, 1863 
 
 That which happened was as follows : — 
 
 Mr. Russell, on the 9,5th July 1862, received unexpectedly 
 from the Vatican a written intimation that the Pope would 
 receive him at twelve o'clock on the next day. Mr. Russell, 
 accordingly, went to the Vatican on the 96th of July, and in 
 the course of a conversation of some length the Pope expressed 
 a wish to know whether, if any circumstances should at any 
 time lead him to desire to take refuge in England, he would 
 be well and hospitably received there. To this question Mr. 
 Russell could of course only give a general answer.
 
 xxx MINISTERIAL SPEECHES 343 
 
 From this statement it will be seen that, instead of Mr. 
 Russell asking an audience of the Pope, and at that audience 
 making to the Pope an offer of an asylum at Malta, it was 
 the Pope who sent for Mr. Russell, and it was the Pope who 
 started the idea that he might, under certain circumstances, 
 wish to reside in British territory. 
 
 This conversation having been reported by Mr. Russell, 
 led to the despatch of the 9,5th of October, of which I send 
 your Excellency a copy, to be communicated to M. Drouyn 
 de Lhuys, together with some other parts of the correspond- 
 ence on this matter. 
 
 It is right that I should explain that Mr. Russell was not 
 called home from Rome, as the French Ambassador imagined, 
 in consequence of his interview with the Pope ; Mr. Russell 
 simply received a direction to absent himself from Rome on 
 account of his health during the unhealthy season in that 
 city. 
 
 Extract from Viscount Palmerstons Speech on the Address, 
 
 February 5, 1863 
 
 Well, Mr. Russell could not, of course, give any other 
 [answer] than that he had had no instructions, but that it 
 was the custom of the English nation to receive, and hospitably 
 to receive, all those who might from any circumstances feel 
 it desirable to take up their abode in this country. 
 
 Extract from Earl Russell's Speech on the Address, 
 February 5, 1863 
 
 The Pope spoke to Mr. Russell very much of Garibaldi 
 being in Sicily, and, appearing to have considerable appre- 
 hensions of the state of Italy, he asked the question whether, 
 if he sought an asylum in England, he might rely on our 
 hospitality. To this Mr. Russell replied that our hospitality 
 was well known, and that we gave asylum to all who sought 
 it. ... / zvas glad to have given that venerable man (the 
 Pope) the comfortable assurance that he might resort to the 
 hospitality of England.
 
 344 ALLEGED OVERTURES ch. 
 
 The Suppressed Despatch 
 
 To the Editor of the " Standard " 
 
 Moxsieur le Redacteur — Pour peu que cela soit probable 
 que la depeche ci-jointe ne se trouve pas dans le recueil 
 presente au parlement, par le gouvernement de la Reine, j'ai 
 cru vous etre agreable en vous adressant une piece, qui ne 
 sera pas sans interet pour le publique Anglais. Je regrette 
 de n'avoir assez maitrise votre langue pour pouvoir vous en 
 envoyer la traduction. 
 
 Veuillez agreer, Monsieur, Tassurance de ma consideration 
 la plus distinguee, 
 
 GoRGIO BoRItOMEO, 
 Legat Apostolique en disponibilite. 
 Londres, le 7 fevrier, 1863. 
 
 Circular addressed to all the Pope's Nuncios Abroad 
 by the Cardinal Secretary of State 
 
 Rome, January 30, 1863. 
 
 Monseigneur — If overtures lately made to the Holy 
 Father, on the part of the Government of her Britannic 
 Majesty, had not found a place in an official communication 
 from the Emperor of the French to his Parliament, I should 
 not have entertained you with the subject. But that com- 
 munication, eliciting much discussion, and published on the 
 eve of the meeting of another Legislature, is likely, as we 
 have heard, to provoke counter-statements from the English 
 Ministers, which will have the deplorable effect of exhibiting 
 two friendly Governments at issue on questions of fact. We 
 have, therefore, decided that your Excellency shall no longer 
 be left uninformed as to the nature of the English proposi- 
 tion, although we should have been content to pass it over in 
 the silence with which we received it, and which I shall not 
 characterise here. 
 
 It might be enough for me to state that we adhere in 
 general to the account which your Excellency will have found 
 in the French despatches. But, if I be correctly informed, it
 
 xxx CARDINAL ANTONELLI'S VIEW 345 
 
 is intended to oppose categorical contradictions to those 
 reports, and where particular assertions are advanced particular 
 answers are required. 
 
 In opposition, then, to the statements above referred to, 
 your Excellency must be prepared to hear it alleged that the 
 negotiation in question originated with ourselves, that the 
 Holy Father himself invited the visit of Mr. Russell, and that, 
 in presence of a civil war, of which Italy was last summer the 
 theatre, we recurred for a contingent refuge to the hospitality 
 of England. 
 
 I need hardly stop, Monseigneur, to point out the improb- 
 ability of such a narrative (pour relever Vinvraisernblance de 
 ce recti). If, in fact, we had thought it necessary, in the 
 emergency of a Garibaldian insurrection, to appeal to the 
 protection of England — if, in proposing Malta as a residence 
 for his Holiness, her Britannic Majesty's Government were 
 only obeying the generous instinct of their hospitality, how 
 is it that that proposal, which we are supposed to have pro- 
 voked in August, 1 was not made before November, and that 
 our appeal remained three months unnoticed, until after the 
 emergency was over and the danger past ? It was not, 
 certainly, after the defeat of the Southern rebellion, — after 
 Garibaldi himself was wounded and a prisoner, — after the 
 Emperor, by the dismissal of an able Minister, had given a 
 signal pledge of his fidelity to that policy of conservation 
 which he represents at Rome, — that we could be thought to 
 need the shelter of the British flag. If her Majesty's Govern- 
 ment had really intended to manifest their hospitality by reliev- 
 ing our necessities, at our urgent entreaty, I cannot do them 
 the injustice of supposing that, during our peril, they would 
 have withheld their proffered asylum, and then ostentatiously 
 pressed it upon us, when a happier day of safety and repose 
 had already dawned upon the Militant Church. 
 
 If, in extenuation of such conduct, the absence of Mr. 
 Russell from Rome be adduced, your Excellency will not fail 
 
 1 His Eminence, it must be observed, was answering statements of 
 which be had only been informed by rumour. It will be seen by the 
 extracts given above that Lord Russell assigns a still earlier date, that 
 of the 25th of July, to this alleged overture.
 
 346 BRITISH HOSPITALITY oh. xxx 
 
 to recollect that any other channel of communication might 
 have been employed, without any greater breach of diplomatic 
 usage than is involved in the habitual communications of 
 that agent. And this leads me to state that the audience 
 which we are said to have initiated, was, in fact, accorded to 
 the express application of Mr. Russell. In admitting to his 
 presence the unaccredited correspondent of a foreign Govern- 
 ment, his Holiness was only giving a proof of that high 
 indulgence of which those who are privileged to approach 
 his person enjoy the daily spectacle, but which, certainly, 
 ought never to be used to impart a colour of truth to 
 imaginary propositions. 
 
 Our experience would lead us to anticipate that in 
 seeking to accredit their version of this incident, her 
 Britannic Majesty's Ministers may vaunt the hospitality of 
 their country. Should this be the case, without caring to 
 appreciate the taste of such language, which, in truth, may 
 be more becoming in the guests than in their hosts, your 
 Excellency will at any rate acknowledge its incontestable 
 opportunity. Inasmuch as the residence here of an unhappy 
 Prince, the sovereign ally of the Holy Father, has continually 
 excited the animadversion of the English Cabinet, it was 
 permitted to doubt whether England still vindicated for 
 herself the noble right which she appears to deny to others 
 — that of offering a refuge to misfortune. It is time that 
 the ancient policy of her Majesty's Government, in this 
 respect, should be formally re-asserted, and therefore, Mon- 
 seigneur, in the case supposed, and in spite of anything 
 inflated in the form, you will note with satisfaction the 
 substance (le fond) of such a declaration, and express the 
 hope that we may henceforth be allowed to receive the King 
 of the Two Sicilies at Rome, without exposing ourselves to 
 calumnious appreciation or incurring malevolent reproach. 
 
 You are at liberty to read this despatch to , and to 
 
 leave it with his Excellency, in copy. — I am, etc., 
 
 (Signed) N. Caiidinal Antoxelli.
 
 CHAPTER XXXI 
 
 Duties on tobacco — Letter from M. Michel Chevalier — Increase of 
 imports and receipts — Ionian Institute — Greek music 
 
 While in London in 1862, I contributed — I hope 
 usefully — to start an agitation for lowering the 
 duties on tobacco. I wrote some letters to the 
 Times, and thus called attention to the subject, 
 one of great importance to smokers, among whom 
 I ranked in those days. 
 
 The duty on cigars was, at that time, 10s. 6d. 
 or lis. 6d. per pound, while the lower duty of 
 5s. 6d. was levied on unmanufactured tobacco. 
 There were also various gradations of manufacture 
 which caused a good deal of confusion to the 
 importer. This difference of duty between manu- 
 factured and unmanufactured tobacco, while ad- 
 mitting foreign unmanufactured tobacco, placed a 
 heavy tax on cigars. 
 
 I consulted M. Michel Chevalier on the subject, 
 and, in reply, he wrote me the following interesting 
 letter : — 
 
 Paris, Palais dk i/Inpustrik, 
 le 2 nov. 1862. 
 
 Cheu Monsieur — Je vous fais passer le passage du rapport 
 du jury francais sur TExposition de 1862, qui concerne 
 le tabac, et le regime qui y est applique en Angleterre. 
 
 347
 
 348 TOBACCO IN ENGLAND ch. 
 
 Ce rapport paraitra dans peu de jours ; mais il est bon 
 que vous en ayez la primeur. 
 
 Cette partie du rapport a ete redigee par M. Barral, 
 homme tres entendu. 
 
 Puisque vous avez le moyen de faire attaquer la question 
 par le Times, le moment est venu. 
 
 En qualite de President des jures franeais, j'ai fait une 
 introduction au rapport, ou j'ai touche a cette question du 
 regime douanier des tabacs en Angleterre. Cette intro- 
 duction paraitra avec le rapport, dans quelques jours. II 
 y en a eu un morceau dans la Revue des deux Mondes, 
 d'hier, l er novembre, mais dans le morceau il ny a pas 
 question des tabacs. — Mille amities, 
 
 Michel Chevalier. 
 
 Un autre fait singulier doit fixer Tattention. 
 
 En Angleterre, la culture seule est proscrite ; la fabrica- 
 tion et le commerce du tabac sont libres ; et cependant, 
 nulle part le tabac n'est aussi mauvais, meme quand on 
 achete les sortes les plus cheres. Faut-il s^n prendre a la 
 liberte, et Taccuser de produire des effets inferieurs a ceux 
 du monopole ? Heureusement, un examen plus attentif 
 montre que les doctrines de liberte ne sont pas responsables 
 du resultat que nous signalons. 
 
 Le regime qui regne en Angleterre est un debris du 
 regime prohibitif, c'est-a-dire du regime qui engendre 
 toujours les plus mauvais fruits. Voici, en effet, quels sont 
 les droits dont les tabacs sont frappes a leur entree en 
 Angleterre : les feuilles ecotees ou non ecotees paient 
 8 fr. 27 c. par kilogramme ; les cigares et les scaferlatis 
 (tabacs a fumer fabriques) paient 24 fr. 81 c. ; le tabac a 
 priser ou en poudre est prohibe. 
 
 Que resulte-t-il d'un tel regime? Cest que la con- 
 currence etrangere n'etant pas a craindre pour la poudre, 
 les fabricants anglais font des tabacs detestables, livrent au 
 commerce des dragues infames. 
 
 Les frais de fabrication n'etant inegaux pour aucune 
 sorte de tabacs, la difference entre les droits auxquels sont 
 soumises les feuilles et ceux qui frappent les cigares ou les
 
 xxxi DUTIES LOWERED 349 
 
 scaferlatis introduits etant considerable, il y a la une prime 
 enorme pour le fabricant anglais, prime qui enleve tout 
 aiguillon a bien faire. Les feuilles ecotees ne payant que 
 8 fr. 27 c, il ne devrait exister qu'un meme droit sur les 
 cigares et sur les tabacs a fumer, car le fabricant ne peut 
 invoquer dans la fabrication aucun dechet donnant au tabac 
 etranger une faveur quelconque. Le tarif anglais est done 
 en complet disaccord avec les regies les plus elementaires 
 d'une bonne administration ; il semble etre une veritable 
 aberration. 
 
 I therefore proceeded with the agitation, and 
 had much correspondence with different persons 
 interested in the subject. The result was, to my 
 mind, most satisfactory, for the methods of taxing 
 tobacco were soon entirely altered. Some years 
 later, when in the House of Commons, I obtained 
 a return showing statements of the gross receipts 
 and net produce in respect of the duty on tobacco 
 and snuff for each year from 1841 to 1880, and 
 from this I learnt that, owing to the lowering of 
 the duty, the quantity of cigars imported in 1861 
 was 438,023 lbs., the net duties received on which 
 amounted to £140,316 ; while in 1880 the quantity 
 had risen to 1,497,341 lbs., and the net duties 
 received in that year amounted to £315,817. 
 
 Since the time of my arrival at Corfu, I had 
 been much occupied in the formation of an Ionian 
 Institute, for the examination of all questions 
 connected with the promotion of trade and educa- 
 tion. This Society flourished greatly, and con- 
 tributed largely to the promotion of the General 
 Exhibition. Even those Ionians who were dis-
 
 350 IONIAN INSTITUTE ch. 
 
 contented, acted with cordiality in furthering the 
 objects of the Institute. When I first proposed 
 the formation of the Association, I received a most 
 cordial letter from M. Zambelli, which I think 
 may be considered interesting : — 
 
 Corfu, the 1th of Oct. 1859. 
 
 My dear Sir — I have read your paper with due attention. 
 On the whole your plan seems to me most judiciously con- 
 cocted. The accessories might perhaps require here and 
 there some little change. Therefore I risk the following 
 few remarks. 
 
 In article the 1st, containing the definition of the objects 
 of the Academy, and where it is stated that the duty of the 
 members should be to collect information of every kind 
 regarding these Islands, would it not be advisable to extend 
 the scope of their investigations, and say that the past 
 history, the physical resources, and the present condition of 
 the neighbouring Greek provinces should equally become 
 the object of their studies? My reasons for making this 
 suggestion are twofold. 
 
 1. Should the literary occupations of our Academy be 
 confined within the narrow boundaries fixed in the proposed 
 article — should it be satisfied with the examination of works 
 published in these islands only — its members, I am afraid, 
 would very seldom have any occasion to exert themselves, 
 and the Institution might well deserve one day the com- 
 pliment paid once by Voltaire to some such institution : 
 "Bonne et vertueuse jille ; elle rC a jamais fait parler (Telle.''"' 
 
 2. I consider it as a good policy, that all those who in 
 some way or another represent the protecting nation here, 
 should avail themselves of every opportunity to show that 
 in their endeavours to promote the advancement of civilisa- 
 tion in these Islands, they do never lose sight of the Greek 
 brethren of the Ionians ; and that they hold the national 
 ties which bind together the different Greek populations of 
 Eastern Europe as dear and holy, as have always been to 
 the different Governments of Germany those which connect
 
 xxxi ZAMBELLI'S PROPOSALS 351 
 
 the separate German communities to each other. By such 
 a constant attention of showing yourselves Greeks in all 
 your tendencies and exertions here, you will soon prepare the 
 biassed minds of the Ionian people to understand clearly — 
 what very few now admit — that it is more conducive to the 
 promotion of the Greek element in the East, and to the 
 future grandeur of our nation (if God reserves us any), to 
 have two separate and distinct centres of civilisation in 
 Corfu and at Athens, rather than a single one, and that it 
 is a very happy condition, under the present circumstances, 
 for one of those centres to be sheltered under a generous 
 and no longer prejudiced protection. I hope you do not 
 believe there is any arriere-pensee in my hint. I speak only 
 out of a sincere sympathy for your nation, and out of a wish 
 to see an end to the shortcomings of the past policy of your 
 countrymen in these Islands. And when I mention my 
 sympathy, I take for granted that my motives for doing so 
 cannot be suspected, my only ambition in my present stage 
 of life, and my deliberate endeavour, being to sink into 
 utter insignificance. 
 
 Resuming my remarks, I am of opinion that, besides the 
 other objects of the Academy, one of them should be " to 
 suggest either the publication or the translation of works 
 intended to promote public education or the diffusion of 
 useful knowledge." There is a total want of all such works 
 in these Islands, and this want accounts, to a certain degree, 
 for the pitiful state of popular education here. 
 
 One of the sections into which the Academy is to be 
 divided, is styled that of Practical Science. What is, in 
 your country, the precise meaning of the word practical? 
 According to our notions, each science may be said to 
 contain two parts, the pure theoretical part, and the 
 practical one. Therefore if Practical Science is meant to 
 signify "Physical and Mathematical Science," or anything 
 else, some clearer and more appropriate epithet might be 
 found out. 
 
 At last the paragraph purporting that the L.H.C. 
 should be invited to inform foreign Governments and 
 learned Bodies of the establishment of the Ionian Academy,
 
 352 PRINCE CONSORT AS PRESIDENT oh. 
 
 seems to me objectionable in its present form, the idea of 
 such an information being hardly consistent with that 
 humility which becomes an obscure Institution like ours. 
 Therefore it would be quite enough to say, "that the 
 L.H.C. should be invited to obtain for the Ionian Academy 
 from foreign Governments and learned Bodies the same 
 privileges as are accorded to other Institutions of a similar 
 character. 11 
 
 I submit to you these few remarks only to show how 
 much I feel concerned in the full success of your scheme, 
 and this will be my excuse both for the liberty I have 
 taken, and my English. — Believe me, dear Sir, most sincerely 
 yours, N. Zambelli. 
 
 To H. Drummond Wolff, Esq., 
 Corfu. 
 
 I have in my possession a letter from Mr. 
 Gladstone, in which he said : — 
 
 I shall have much pleasure in accepting the honorary 
 office of Vice-President of the Ionian Association. 
 
 This post the Association had instructed me to 
 offer. Many persons in England, of all parties, 
 wishing to show their interest in the undertaking, 
 also accepted the honorary office of Vice-President. 
 The Prince Consort graciously accepted the Pre- 
 sidency. I received great encouragement, in parti- 
 cular, from Mr. Herman Merivale, then Permanent 
 Under-Secretary of State at the Colonial Office. 
 He wrote to me, in a letter dated March 7, 1860, 
 as follows : — 
 
 First let me say that I shall be really glad to accept the 
 office of honorary Vice-President of your new Society, and 
 feel myself very much flattered by the offer. If I can be 
 at any time of service to it, this will afford me no small
 
 xxxi VICE-PRESIDENTS 353 
 
 pleasure. Time, unfortunately, is what I want most for 
 this, as well as other things. But I shall rely on you for 
 keeping me informed of any opening that occurs to you 
 for which I can be most serviceable. 
 
 It has struck me that you might possibly find advantage 
 in offering a vice-presidency to Sir Roderick Murchison, if 
 you have not done so. He is a cosmopolite — his Russian 
 leanings have made him a bit of a Greek — and he is one of 
 the few people who (besides being really flattered even by 
 small honours) have a real disposition to be useful to other 
 folks, and a good deal of resource in finding out how. 
 
 Panizzi might also be a good man to enlist in some 
 way, though perhaps hardly to the extent of a Vice- 
 Presidentship. 
 
 I received the following letter from Sir Edward 
 Lytton, while he was staying at Corfu : — 
 
 I accept with cordial thanks the honour proposed of 
 becoming one of the Vice-Presidents of your Association, 
 and enclose a trifling donation to its funds. 
 
 I think the object of the Association admirable, and I 
 trust that it may be vigorously carried out. The glance I 
 have taken of this island has sufficed to convince me of its 
 immense industrial resources, as yet but partially developed. 
 But even in countries like England itself, with abundant 
 capital and eager competition, innovations, however clear 
 may be their beneficial result, encounter many obstacles in 
 the inert force which belongs to prejudice and indifference, 
 to long-established custom and modes of action. There, 
 and still more in communities like that of Corfu, it is 
 only by the patient energy of a few enlightened minds that 
 improvements are gradually enforced upon the many. Such 
 few are the real benefactors of the State. An Association 
 such as yours is the best practical mode to unite their 
 intelligence and encourage their mutual efforts. 
 
 I shall feel a lively interest in hearing, from time to 
 time, of the progress made. Once commenced, I trust it 
 will not be disheartened by the difficulties and delays that 
 vol.. I 2 a
 
 354 A TIMID SENATOR ch. 
 
 are inseparable from the career of improvement when it 
 does not depend on the will of an autocrat, but must 
 consult and, to a certain degree, humour the very prejudices 
 it is destined at last to conquer. 
 
 One of the first members of the Ionian Institute 
 was the Chevalier Manzaro, a great musical genius, 
 who lived at Corfu. He had composed the music 
 of the patriotic song adopted by the Greek 
 Revolutionaries. Count Salomos, a brother of the 
 Senator of Zante, who had written the words of 
 that song, was another of our original members. 
 
 The Senator, I remember, had a great horror of 
 the sea. When going on board the steamer for 
 Zante, he was always accompanied by some friends 
 who came to cheer him up. One day I went with 
 him, and asked what his sensations were. 
 
 He said, " Ho paura." 
 
 I remarked that the sea was perfectly calm, but 
 he said, " Anche quando e tranquillo ho paura." 
 
 Chevalier Manzaro was anxious to promote the 
 study of music in the Institute, in addition to 
 other arts and sciences. He undertook to organise 
 a system, with this purpose. 
 
 Greek popular melodies, like those of Italy, are 
 very melancholy. The following are the notes of 
 a sono; I used often to hear chanted in a low 
 tone : — 
 
 Shortly after our return to England, my wife 
 gave a concert at the house in Rutland Gate where
 
 xxxi GREEK MUSIC 355 
 
 we then lived, exclusively of Greek music. It was 
 considered attractive. Several ladies came from the 
 Greek community living in London, amongst them 
 Miss Marie and Miss Christine Spartali. Both were 
 of artistic nature, and remarkably handsome. The 
 elder one is a great painter of the pre-Raphaelite 
 school ; but I fear that her sister, Christine, is 
 dead. She was a remarkable pianist. Their 
 father had a residence at Clapham, where he 
 occasionally gave artistic soirees.
 
 CHAPTER XXXII 
 
 Visitors to the Ionian Islands — Princess Darinka of Montenegro — 
 
 Friends at Corfu 
 
 During my stay in Corfu, the island was visited 
 by many remarkable people, amongst others by 
 M. de Lesseps. Both from Trieste and Brindisi to 
 Egypt, Corfu was always a stopping-place. 
 
 I met M. de Lesseps very often after that 
 time, in Constantinople, Paris, and London. In 
 Paris I dined with him more than once. These 
 entertainments were most interesting, as nearly all 
 his children and grandchildren used to dine with 
 him. On one occasion I was dreadfully snubbed. 
 I was asked to take back with me to the Grand 
 Hotel, where I was stopping, a little American 
 boy. In order to make our drive pass pleasantly, 
 the child said to me, " Did you ever hear a little 
 boy say 'Twinkle, twinkle'?" He thereupon 
 repeated that poem to me word for word. When 
 we got to the hotel, I went upstairs with him to 
 his bedroom, where his grandmother was waiting 
 for him. We knocked at the door, and the little 
 boy said, "This man has brought me home." 
 
 356
 
 ch. xxxii SNUBBED 357 
 
 Thereupon the old lady, without saying a word, 
 slammed the door in my face. 
 
 M. de Lesseps had an old friend in Corfu, 
 called M. Edouard Grasset, the French consul, a 
 most genial and friendly gentleman, who was 
 generally esteemed, and used constantly to smooth 
 down difficulties. He had been an officer in the 
 Greek Revolution, and spoke the language with 
 great facility. A favourite hobby of his was the 
 collection of antiquities : amongst other treasures 
 he possessed a beautiful necklace entirely composed 
 of gold Alexander coins. His anecdotes of the 
 Greek Revolution were excessively interesting. 
 Sir Rowland Errington, whose name will appear 
 later, wrote to me about him as follows : — 
 
 You do not mention dear M. Grasset. Do tell him from 
 me and mine that we shall ever preserve the most agreeable 
 and grateful recollection of all his kindness to us. 
 
 In 1860, His Royal Highness Prince Alfred 
 came to the Ionian Islands. I recollect that he 
 rode a pony of mine in a paper-chase. His visit 
 created a good deal of excitement, as a cry had 
 been raised that he should occupy the Greek 
 throne. Later on, His Majesty the King — then 
 Prince of Wales — also visited Corfu. Unfortu- 
 nately I was in deep mourning at the time, and 
 had no opportunity of paying my respects to His 
 Royal Highness. 
 
 The late Empress of Austria arrived at Corfu 
 from Madeira in the Queen's yacht Victoria and 
 Albert. The Lord High Commissioner, the
 
 358 ROYAL VISITORS en. 
 
 President of the Senate, the aides-de-camp and 
 myself, went on board and were presented to Her 
 Majesty. She was tall, very imperial, winning 
 rather than handsome in appearance. She spoke 
 English very well to all of us ; asked me how long 
 I had been there, and seemed acquainted with the 
 beauties of the scenery. The Empress did not 
 land, but after visiting Govino in the yacht, she 
 left the next day, having stayed for about twelve 
 hours. 
 
 The Kins: of the Belgians also visited Corfu. 
 As I have already stated, I had had the honour of 
 making his acquaintance at Brussels. 
 
 At another time, Lord Elgin and his staff 
 passed through on their way back from the 
 Mission to China. 
 
 Towards the end of our stay, Mrs. Baring, the 
 mother of Sir Henry Storks' aide-de-camp, now 
 Lord Cromer, and one of her sons also came to 
 Corfu. Another visitor to the Islands was Mr. 
 Edward Lear. His water-colours of Oriental 
 scenery are well known, as well as his Book of 
 Nonsense, which, I think, was the original of 
 what are called " Limericks." Lord Carlingford 
 bought several of his pictures, and so did Sir 
 Thomas Fairbairn. I am also fortunate enough 
 to possess a few. One of the most beautiful 
 scenes he ever painted — Philse — will, I am afraid, 
 be destroyed by the engineering works. Mr. Lear 
 was an agreeable man, and very much liked by his 
 friends, but a little sensitive.
 
 xxxn A REMARKABLE PRINCESS 359 
 
 Amongst other remarkable persons who visited 
 the Islands was the Princess Darinka of Montenegro, 
 whose husband, the Prince, had been assassinated 
 some years before. She came from Trieste. A 
 relative of hers — I believe her sister — had married 
 one of the Counts Roma, a great name in the 
 Ionian Islands. 
 
 I was much struck by the Princess' conversation, 
 by her considerable ability and the moderation of 
 her views. She spoke very freely of Montenegro, 
 and did not conceal her desire for the liberation 
 of the Slav race in Servia, Montenegro, and the 
 adjoining districts of Turkey. It was to this 
 portion of the Slav family that she limited her 
 wishes, being anxious not to interfere with the 
 Slav population of Austria, or to be in any way 
 subject to Russia. On this point she seemed 
 very firm. On one occasion I remember she 
 expressed her strong sympathy with the Poles, 
 and I asked her how she could reconcile this 
 feeling with her reputed desire for Russian 
 domination. She replied, " Plutdt les turcs / " She 
 went on to say that she was astonished, when 
 conversing with British consuls and others who 
 came to the country, to find how they were 
 penetrated before their arrival with the false 
 impression that Montenegro was entirely in the 
 interests of Russia. 
 
 The Princess told me that if her child had been 
 a son, she might have taken greater interest in 
 affairs. She did not deny taking an active part
 
 360 POLITICS IN MONTENEGRO ch. 
 
 in political matters ; but, as they then stood, there 
 did not seem to be any one person with whose 
 fate that of her country could be associated. She 
 spoke very guardedly of the Prince, and expressed 
 regret at his having married an uneducated Monte- 
 negrin, and at his having as yet no children. The 
 absence of issue, she said, also stood in the way 
 of the Prince of Servia, and Princess Darinka 
 vaguely hinted that a grandson of Kara George, 
 then being educated in Paris, might afterwards 
 combine the claims of all sections. 
 
 The then Prince of Montenegro, as far as I 
 could gather from the Princess' conversation, was of 
 an obstinate character. His secretary and doctor, 
 a Frenchman, used to write his letters, but he 
 himself transacted all business, and allowed no 
 one to influence him. 
 
 Of the Turks, the Princess had the same kind of 
 horror I had observed in all the populations of the 
 opposite coast ; nor did she seem to have any 
 strong feeling for the Greeks, though she said the 
 Slavs' sympathy for them had been lately on the 
 increase. 
 
 The Princess was pleased with the removal of 
 the blockhouses, and hoped for the assistance 
 of England in obtaining access to the port of 
 Spizza. 
 
 I remarked that the English people were glad 
 to see the happiness of all races ; but that the 
 good-will of England could only be secured by 
 a peaceful attitude. I cited the offer, recently
 
 xxxii POVERTY OF THE COUNTRY 361 
 
 made by Great Britain, to cede the Ionian 
 Islands, as a proof of her willingness to further 
 the fortunes of nations who gave promise of 
 a peaceful rather than of a turbulent future. 
 The Princess replied, " Out, les montenegrins sont 
 trop guerriers." But she went on to complain 
 of the barrenness and scarcity of cultivable land, 
 and of the difficulty in the way of her countrymen 
 obtaining subsistence by peaceful means. She 
 also lamented the want of education among the 
 Montenegrins, repeatedly saying that the wives 
 and daughters of the principal men, senators and 
 others, were mere peasants who could neither read 
 nor write. I suggested to the Princess that, as 
 a woman, this was exactly the region in which 
 she could be of use, and advised her, on her return 
 to Montenegro, where she was building a house, 
 to take a German or Swiss governess, and to 
 induce the Montenegrins to allow some of their 
 children to be brought up with her own daughter, 
 an interesting child of about four years old. The 
 Princess said that she had already thought of this, 
 and had even proposed something of the kind. 
 The richest, however, were so poor as to be forced 
 to set their children to work almost as soon as 
 they could walk, and their services could not be 
 spared. 
 
 The poverty of Montenegro was a constant 
 theme with Princess Darinka. She made no 
 secret of the pecuniary assistance given to the 
 country by foreign states. But for such help,
 
 362 FRENCH HELP 
 
 CH. 
 
 she said, the people would be without bread. 
 France had lately given 60,000 francs, and Austria 
 30,000 florins. The latter gift she attributed to 
 the instigation of the Empress of the French, 
 who had said to Prince Metternich, " If your 
 Emperor wishes to do anything agreeable to me, 
 let him give something to Montenegro." The 
 Emperor of the French had also given permission 
 to Mr. Quequich, the Princess' brother, to hold 
 a lottery in France in favour of Montenegro, 
 by which she hoped to obtain four or five hundred 
 thousand francs. A portion of this, forty or fifty 
 thousand francs, had been remitted within the last 
 few days. 
 
 The Princess spoke of the journey to London 
 of the Princess of Servia, who had political con- 
 versations with Lord Palmerston, by which she 
 thought some good had been done. The Princess 
 of Servia, she said, had been much pleased with 
 her reception, though somewhat disappointed at 
 not being able to pay her respects to the Queen 
 without the intervention of the Turkish Ambas- 
 sador. This was the cause which prevented Prince 
 Danilo from going to London. 
 
 The moderation of the Princess' expressions 
 regarding Montenegro was remarkable. When 
 talking of a sketch of Cettigne, written by Miss 
 Irby and another lady, she complained of it as 
 too much couleur de rose, and regretted that the 
 country had not been described without exaggera- 
 tion in one sense or another.
 
 xxxii PRINCESS DARINKA'S PLANS 363 
 
 The Princess had been carefully educated, 
 speaking French, German, and Italian, besides 
 Slav, and understanding English sufficiently for 
 study. She was well informed on all subjects ; 
 read a good deal ; was shrewd and guarded 
 in her conversation, and had great charm of 
 manner, but was somewhat weighed down by 
 affection for her family. Her character seemed 
 to be a mixture of real patriotism, personal 
 ambition, and disappointment at seeing no im- 
 mediate prospect by which the two could be 
 combined. 
 
 From Corfu she was going in the first instance 
 to Turin to meet her mother and sister, who lived 
 at Paris ; thence to Aix-les- Bains. Afterwards 
 she intended to go to some sea - bathing place 
 near Genoa, and to Paris. She expressed her- 
 self in very warm terms of the Emperor and 
 Empress of the French, who had personally been 
 very kind to her. She built much on the ultimate 
 assistance of Great Britain, and spoke of her 
 intention of visiting London shortly. I asked 
 her with what passport she travelled. She 
 answered, " With a Montenegrin one in Slav and 
 French," and she went on to say that all countries 
 looked on Montenegro as independent — even 
 Austria and Turkey. Recognition by England 
 was alone wanting. 
 
 In pursuance of a promise made at Bowood, 
 Lord and Lady Fortescue came and stayed at 
 Corfu. Lord Seymour paid me a visit too. I
 
 364 A GREEK SCHOLAR ch. 
 
 had known him well in England. After staying 
 with me for some time he went to Albania, and 
 thence he was summoned back to England on 
 family business. Sir Seymour FitzGerald also 
 passed through the Ionian Islands : he had been 
 Under-Secretary for Foreign Affairs in my time. 
 
 One winter, Corfu was fortunate enough to see 
 Sir Rowland Errington and his three daughters. 
 The eldest died not long after : she was very 
 beautiful. The second became Lord Cromer's first 
 wife, and was a guardian angel in Egypt ; and the 
 third married Lord Pollington, the son of the Lord 
 Pollington already mentioned. 
 
 Professor Ansted visited Corfu when I was 
 there, and, after a minute examination, wrote a 
 most interesting book on the geology of the 
 Islands. The Duchess of Montrose and her 
 daughter also came, as did Lady Strangford, and, 
 on another occasion, Lord Strangford. The latter 
 astonished the Ionians by his knowledge of Greek, 
 both critical and colloquial. Among other visitors 
 were Lord Beauchamp and Mr. Earle, the father of 
 Mr. Ralph Earle, with two of his other sons, one 
 of whom unfortunately died in Corfu. 
 
 On one occasion Mrs. Drummond, widow of 
 Sir Robert Peel's secretary, who was afterwards 
 Under - Secretary for Ireland, with her three 
 daughters, passed a winter in the Islands, where 
 their arrival was warmly welcomed. She was the 
 daughter of the well-known wit called " Conversa- 
 tion Sharpe." It was said that he first attained
 
 xxxii 'CONVERSATION SHARPE' 365 
 
 celebrity by a remark made in the presence 
 of Lord Alvanley. The latter was criticising 
 Scripture history, and observed as to the Ten 
 Commandments that we took them from the 
 Egyptians. Mr. Sharpe, then a young man, 
 replied, " But your Lordship cannot say we kept 
 them." 
 
 Amongst our other visitors was Mr. William 
 Eliot, afterwards Lord St. Germans, whom I had 
 known for a long time, and who has been men- 
 tioned in a former part of this volume as having 
 been at Bayonne on my return from Madrid. 
 Another was Mr. Edward Herbert, a most amiable 
 and taking young man, who was murdered by 
 brigands in Greece. Later on came Lord Richard 
 Grosvenor — now Lord Stalbridge — and Mr. Stuart- 
 Wortley, of whom more will be heard later. 
 
 It would be ungrateful to omit from any 
 account of the Ionian Islands the great advantages 
 and gratification that every one received from the 
 constant visits of the British Fleet. Captain — 
 afterwards Admiral — Clifford, Captain — afterwards 
 Sir Henry — Chads, Admiral Yelverton, and Sir 
 Rodney Mundy, when employed in the Mediter- 
 ranean Squadron, came constantly to Corfu, and 
 were most successful in conciliating the good-will 
 of all classes. 
 
 I recollect a curious circumstance that occurred 
 with regard to Sir Sidney Dacres, when chosen 
 to command the British expedition sent to the 
 West Indies at the time of the differences with
 
 366 VAGUE GEOGRAPHY ch. 
 
 the United States concerning the Trent. An 
 Ionian lady said to me that, at all events, we 
 should get news of him before they could do so 
 in England. I asked why. She replied, " During 
 the whole of the Indian Mutiny we got informa- 
 tion before it arrived in England. Why should 
 we not do so now ? " 
 
 There was one most interesting lady at Corfu 
 at that time — Countess Valsamachi. Her husband 
 was an Ionian Count, an extremely handsome man, 
 who had been very well received at Vienna at the 
 time of the Congress. She was the widow of 
 Bishop Heber, and a lady very much sought after 
 on account of her kindliness and dignified manner. 
 I believe she had been Miss Spencer by birth, and 
 was often mentioned in Bishop Heber's poems. By 
 her marriage with the Count she had one daughter, 
 who, I think, married a Roumanian. 
 
 My most constant companion at Corfu was Sir 
 Charles Sargent, a member of the Supreme Council 
 of Justice. We used to go out together every 
 day, generally taking that beautiful walk leading to 
 what was called the " One Gun Battery." He was 
 a cousin of the Bishop of Oxford, as was his wife, 
 Miss Unwin, who was Sir Charles's first cousin. 
 Lady Sargent had had a brother in the Colonial 
 Office when I was there, and she herself was 
 related to Mrs. Unwin, the close friend of the poet 
 Cowper. Sir Charles Sargent's colleague was Sir 
 Patrick Colquhoun, well known for some time as a 
 diplomatic representative of the Hanse Towns in
 
 xxxii BARON DEVERTON 367 
 
 England, and also as a Greek scholar. He was 
 cousin to Mr. Colquhoun, our Agent and Consul- 
 Gen eral in Egypt. 
 
 Another remarkable man connected with the 
 Ionian Islands was Mr. Sebright, who generally 
 went by the name of Baron d'Everton. He had 
 originally been in the service of the Duke of Lucca, 
 who had conferred the title upon him.
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII 
 
 Political agitation — Letters from the Lord High Commissioner — Greek 
 Revolution — Ionian Islands to be ceded to Greece 
 
 As stated before, there had been a great deal 
 of political agitation for some years past in the 
 Ionian Islands. This excitement had recently 
 been stimulated by the publication of a despatch 
 from Lord John Russell, dated August 16, 1859, 
 in which the following passage occurred : — 
 
 The people of Tuscany . . . have the right, which 
 belongs to the people of every independent State, to regulate 
 their own internal government. 
 
 Lord John Russell had explained why this 
 doctrine did not apply to the Ionian Islands, the 
 reason being that they were under a Protectorate ; 
 but nevertheless the excitement increased. The 
 effervescence in Italy continued, and an insur- 
 rectionary spirit of considerable force was making 
 itself felt in Greece itself. Though the Ionian 
 people were personally very civil and courteous to 
 the subjects of the Protecting Power, they gave it 
 clearly to be understood that their one object was 
 to be united with Greece, and that nothing would 
 deter them from pursuing that course, though 
 
 368
 
 ch. xxxiii A CELEBRATED DESPATCH 369 
 
 they wished to do so by peaceful and legitimate 
 methods. 
 
 Excitement in the Islands was still further 
 increased by a famous despatch written by Lord 
 John Russell to Sir James Hudson on October 
 27, 1860. The Ionian Assembly adopted this 
 despatch as the text of a further demand for union 
 with Greece. It began as follows : — 
 
 It appears that the late proceedings of the King of 
 Sardinia have been strongly disapproved of by several of the 
 principal Courts of Europe. The Emperor of the French, 
 on hearing of the invasion of the Papal States by the 
 army of General Cialdini, withdrew his Minister from 
 Turin. . . . 
 
 The Emperor of Russia . . . declared in strong terms his 
 indignation at the entrance of the army of the King of Sardinia 
 into the Neapolitan territory, and has withdrawn his entire 
 mission from Turin. . . . 
 
 After these diplomatic acts, it would scarcely be just to 
 Italy, or respectful to the other Great Powers of Europe, 
 were the Government of Her Majesty any longer to withhold 
 the expression of their opinion. 
 
 Lord John Russell went on to say that they 
 did not wish to pass comments on the conduct of 
 the Powers. The questions which appeared to 
 the British Government to be at issue were 
 these : — 
 
 Were the people of Italy justified in asking the assist- 
 ance of the King of Sardinia to relieve them from Govern- 
 ments with which they were discontented ? and was the 
 King of Sardinia justified in furnishing the assistance of 
 his arms to the people of the Roman and Neapolitan 
 States ? 
 
 VOL. I 2 B
 
 370 VATTEL ch. 
 
 The motives of the people of those States, said 
 the despatch, appeared to have been that the 
 government of the Pope and the King of the Two 
 Sicilies provided so ill for the administration of 
 justice, the protection of personal liberty, and the 
 general welfare of their people, that their subjects 
 looked forward to the overthrow of their rulers 
 as a necessary preliminary to any improvement in 
 their condition. The Italians required one strong 
 Government for the whole of Italy. According 
 to Lord John Russell, the struggle of Charles 
 Albert in 1848, and the sympathy shown by Victor 
 Emmanuel, naturally caused the association of his 
 name with the single authority under which the 
 Italians aspired to live. 
 
 The despatch continued as follows : — 
 
 Looking at the question in this view, Her Majesty's 
 Government must admit that the Italians themselves are the 
 best judges of their own interests. 
 
 Lord John Russell then quoted the maxim of 
 Vattel, " That when a people from good reasons 
 take up arms against an oppressor, it is but an act 
 of justice and generosity to assist brave men in the 
 defence of their liberties." 
 
 "Upon this grave matter," said the despatch, 
 " Her Majesty's Government hold that the people 
 in question are themselves the best judges of their 
 own affairs." 
 
 After a minute analysis of current Italian 
 politics, Lord John Russell ended this remarkable 
 despatch by saying : —
 
 xxxiii APPEAL TO EUROPE 371 
 
 Her Majesty's Government can see no sufficient ground 
 for the severe censure with which Austria, France, Prussia, 
 and Russia have visited the acts of the King of Sardinia. 
 Her Majesty's Government will turn their eyes rather to the 
 gratifying prospect of a people building up the edifice of 
 their liberties, and consolidating the work of their independ- 
 ence, amid the sympathies and good wishes of Europe. 
 
 Sir James Hudson was instructed to give a copy 
 of this despatch to Count Cavour. 
 
 When the Tonian Legislative Assembly met, a 
 long paper was read by M. Baccomi on the subject 
 of union with Greece, and M. Lombardo presented 
 another document which was an appeal from the 
 "Representatives of the Seven Islands to the 
 Representatives of the Peoples, the Governments, 
 and the Philanthropists of Christian Europe." 
 Both papers were laid on the table. Sir Henry 
 Storks therefore sent the following message to the 
 Assembly : — 
 
 The Lord High Commissioner has perceived that two 
 documents have been laid on the table of the Most Noble 
 Legislative Assembly, and now stand on the order of the day 
 for discussion ; one inviting the Legislative Assembly to call 
 on the Ionian people to declare, by universal suffrage, the 
 national desire to be united to the kingdom of Greece ; the 
 other purporting to be an appeal from the Representatives 
 of the Seven Islands to the representatives of the peoples, to 
 the governments, and to the philanthropists of Christian 
 Europe. 
 
 The Lord High Commissioner is desirous of carrying for- 
 bearance to the utmost limits of his, duty, as the Repre- 
 sentative of the Sovereign Protectress of these states ; his 
 Excellency therefore warns the Legislative Assembly that 
 the proposals now standing in the order of the day are
 
 372 PARLIAMENT PROROGUED ch. 
 
 clearly contrary to the constitution, and as such cannot be 
 entertained or discussed. 
 
 The Lord High Commissioner hopes that nothing will be 
 permitted to divert the Legislative Assembly from its true 
 functions of useful legislation for the good of the country ; 
 and having now informed that body that these proposals are 
 unconstitutional, his Excellency trusts to its prudence and 
 patriotism to remove them from the order of the day. 
 
 Given from the Palace of St. Michael and St. George, 
 Corfu, the 12th day of March 1861. 
 
 By order of His Excellency, 
 
 H. Drummond Wolff, 
 Secretary to the Lord High Commissioner. 
 
 In answer to this message, the representatives 
 of the Government in the House reported to Sir 
 Henry Storks that the proposals were not with- 
 drawn from the order of the day ; but, on the 
 contrary, that the Assembly was determined to 
 address a reply to his message, and retain the order 
 of the day as it stood. In consequence, Sir Henry 
 Storks reported that he had " reluctantly prorogued 
 the Parliament for six months," adding that the 
 most perfect tranquillity prevailed, and that he 
 saw no chance of it being disturbed ; although, if 
 the scene of disorder had been permitted to 
 continue, he did not know to what lengths public 
 feeling might have been stimulated. "The pro- 
 rogation," he said, " has been favourably received in 
 Corfu, and has created no sensation." 
 
 There had been a great deal of discussion mean- 
 while in England as to whether our Protectorate
 
 xxxm IONIAN CHARACTER 373 
 
 over the Ionian Islands should be given up or 
 not. At this time I carried on a correspondence 
 about Ionian affairs with Mr. Chichester Fortescue, 
 the Under-Secretary of the Colonial Office, whom 
 I had known somewhat intimately. To him I 
 explained the reasons for and against our con- 
 tinuance of the Protectorate. On the 18th of 
 April 1861, I wrote to him as follows : — 
 
 I told you in my last letter that the Lord High Com- 
 missioner had deferred his journey to the Islands, and there 
 is now a probability of his not going till after the Queen's 
 Birthday. The delay is judicious, for a tour at present 
 would only create excitement. The word "excitement 1 '' 
 perhaps is misplaced. The nature of these people is not 
 inflammatory, like that of the French. They are the most 
 orderly people, except the Belgians, I ever came across, 
 respectful, courteous, and amenable to authority. I mean 
 excitement of mind, and a disposition to be doing something 
 political, which, in another condition, would be dormant. 
 
 Sir Henry Storks wishes me clearly to explain to you — 
 though I think I have already done so — the nature of public 
 feeling in these islands on the question of union. It is one 
 of Religion and Nationality, which responds when an appeal 
 is made to it, but which, without such appeal, is silent. In 
 stigmatising the popular leaders as demagogues, in the base 
 sense of the word, he wishes to define them as leaders who 
 are making the movement and not made by it. If I could 
 make myself clear to my own satisfaction, at the risk of being 
 diffuse I would deduce a hundred instances ; but it is difficult 
 to explain the real state of the case when supported only by 
 facts which cannot easily be brought forward. 
 
 If you were to appeal to the country on the cry " An- 
 nexation or Protection? 11 by universal suffrage and ballot, 
 the majority would be enormous in favour of annexation. 
 . . . The feeling for annexation here is, moreover, sufficiently 
 strong to prevent any one from publicly proclaiming his
 
 374 ANNEXATION ca 
 
 opposition to it. At present, in Corfu, there are many in 
 all classes trembling at the thought of annexation, a rumour 
 of which is sedulously spread by those interested. Yet, put 
 the country to the vote, and not ten of these men would 
 declare their real opinion. All the upper classes, even those 
 who profess themselves in favour of it, would be the first to 
 vote against it, if they dared. One great inducement to the 
 peasants in favour of it is that they imagine it would deliver 
 them from their signwi. The priests, as a body, are in 
 favour of it. They contribute towards maintaining the feel- 
 ing amongst the people. The legislators find the feeling so 
 far predominant that an expression of it secures their return, 
 and they make political capital by agitating it. 
 
 In a period of tranquillity, therefore, you hear nothing of 
 annexation ; for the papers are not sufficiently read to keep 
 up the sentiment. 
 
 There are 1600 places in the Islands. So long as you 
 cannot give a place to every adult male, you will have an 
 opposition working up this cause, if not for office, at any 
 rate for re-election. Even amongst the employes there are 
 several intriguing with the Rhisospasts (Radicals). 
 
 An analogous feeling existed in many parts of Italy. 
 Peasants, and others of that class, lived very happily under 
 Grand Dukes ; but when the question was put to them, 
 " Will you be annexed to a national Italian Kingdom ? " they 
 voted in the affirmative, perhaps to their personal disadvan- 
 tage. One may therefore always bear in mind that universal 
 suffrage would carry annexation. 
 
 This letter makes it plain that the whole drift 
 of public feeling amongst the people was for 
 annexation to Greece. 
 
 During my stay in London in 1862, where I 
 was hard at work in connection with the Exhibi- 
 tion, I received a series of most interesting letters 
 from Sir Henry Storks, describing the agitation 
 going on in the Islands, from which I will quote a
 
 xxxm LEGISLATIVE ASSEMBLY 375 
 
 few extracts, as the letters are too long and too 
 numerous to be given in full : — 
 
 Palace, Corfu, 
 
 March 25, 1862. 
 
 . . . Thanks for your letter. I am very glad to find 
 that you had so fine a passage to Trieste. I send you some 
 letters. 
 
 Maiooran leaves to-day for London, and awaits a letter 
 from you, which he will look for at Paris. 
 
 Your people, Vassili and Co., left three days ago in the 
 Liverpoo. steamer, but have had to make a small detour 
 via Alexandria. I hope they will arrive in time. 
 
 The L. A. goes on much in the old way. Every sort of 
 insane proposal to catch popularity and to compromise me, 
 as they prooose reduction of duties, without providing sub- 
 stitutes, and boast that they know the Government will not 
 pass them; but, at any rate, they have proposed them. 
 Yesterday ctme on the discussion on the Address, and it is 
 likely to las: three or four days more. Padovan spoke in 
 his usual style, saying that the Protection was at an end, as 
 it only existed de facto — a pretty good proof of its existence, 
 by the way. As P.'s speech was an opening speech only, we 
 shall have him again. Zervo followed, and spoke for one 
 hour and a ialf. They tell me that his speech was most 
 moderate, advocating prudence and attention to the business 
 of the country, and leaving the " National Question " to 
 time, and the progress which it could not fail to make. 
 The Galleries applauded lustily, but the House was " mum." 
 The fact is, they are moving heaven and earth to make Z. 
 resign, in order that P. may gain his place and pocket the 
 i?300. I am sure of the wisdom of having confirmed his (Z.'s) 
 election as Fresident [of the Assembly] and of the appoint- 
 ment of Car iso as President [of the Senate]. The nomina- 
 tion of the latter in the Islands, and particularly in his own, 
 has given great satisfaction. I will send the Proces Ver- 
 baux, if they are worth it, but these fellows talk such 
 rubbish, so like children, that the account of their proceed- 
 ings is hardly worth reading.
 
 376 GENERAL DISCONTENT ch. 
 
 Everything is perfectly quiet, and if we are let alone 
 everything will go well. They want to be prorogued, but 
 they shan't be, I am determined, unless they commit some 
 very gross act. 
 
 Don't forget the Consular Question, nor to endeavour to 
 obtain some small sum for me. ,£1000 a year, or even ^500, 
 would be of the greatest assistance. 
 
 I have no news to give you. I send you a letter for 
 Fairbairn, to whom give my " complimenti." Poor old 
 Carter dropped down dead yesterday morning from apoplexy, 
 or heart : he is to be buried to-day. 
 
 I read an article in the Post about Ionian politics. Pray 
 thank Algy Borthwick for his bo?i souvenir, with my kind 
 regards. It is very good indeed of him to give one a lift 
 in this way. Remember me also to Sir Edward, Delane, 
 Hayward, Rawlinson, and all friends. 
 
 I miss you very much, but am glad you are en the spot 
 to look after our Exhibition. I reckon on you to fight all 
 our battles for us. I write in great haste. You shall hear 
 from me again next week. Peel and Strahan send their love. 
 
 April 1, 1862. 
 
 I suppose ere this you have arrived in London. I hoped 
 to have heard from you by the mail which arrived yesterday. 
 I have little news to give you. The Assembly ire behaving 
 as ill as they generally do, and spend their time in idle dis- 
 cussions and in abusing each other. They have spent the 
 whole week in discussing a project of address presented by 
 Lascari, Condari, Tombro, and another, and after all this 
 debate they finished by throwing aside the project of the 
 Commission, and placing on the order of the day to be dis- 
 cussed to-day a project by Lombard o, which is nothing more 
 than a rechauffe of A. Valaoriti's address of last year, with a 
 considerable addition of red pepper. Both these projects are 
 objectionable — Lombardo's particularly so — but I make no 
 doubt it will pass by a large majority. Zervo has made a 
 great speech of the most moderate and sensible description, 
 considering his antecedents and opinions. He kas behaved 
 most prudently, and with great propriety ; but take them
 
 xxxiii INDISCREET ADDRESS 377 
 
 for all in all, they are as bad a lot as I could have found, 
 and will give me a deal of trouble before I have done with 
 them. I am not yet certain what course I shall pursue. 
 They want to drive me to a prorogation which I am deter- 
 mined shall not be unless some extraordinary circumstances 
 arise, which I cannot foresee. They produce little impression 
 out of doors, and people go to the Assembly to hiss and 
 cheer as they go to the Opera. 
 
 I have no news to give you. Think of all our work in 
 London, and fight our battles for us if we are attacked. 
 . . . Peel and Strahan send their love, and I am always, my 
 dear Wolff, yours ever, H. K. S. 
 
 Kind regards to Sir Edward, Hayward, Rawlinson, Elliot, 
 and C. Fortescue, and all friends. 
 
 April 8, 1862. 
 
 I have received your letter dated Turin, March 28. I 
 cannot give any information about the municipal land for 
 an establishment, because, without knowing the exact spot 
 which would suit, who can say whether our Municipals 
 would make a concession ? I should think there would be 
 no difficulty about it, but with such a body as I have to deal 
 with, I cannot answer for anything. All I can promise is 
 to do the best I can. When Mr. Palmer arrives at Corfu 
 I will see him, and ascertain what can be done. 
 
 I send you two copies of the Address, and my answer to 
 it. I wish you would send one 'immediately to John Delane, 
 and the other to A. Borthwick. You might add a few 
 introductory remarks. They have taken a month to give 
 this answer to my most moderate speech, and probably a 
 more impudent and lying document was never penned. It 
 was not the project of the Commission which was rejected, 
 though that was bad enough. This is a progetto of Lom- 
 bardo's, being A. V.'s production of last year, but with more 
 abuse and more bile infused into it. The President behaved 
 very well on the occasion. He did not wish to come up 
 with it, and when he signed, he declared that he did so 
 because he was obliged, and that he dissented from its 
 contents. This is recorded in the Proces Verbal. It was
 
 378 GREEK REVOLUTION ch. 
 
 supposed I should not receive it ; but I did not hesitate 
 because I thought it too good an opportunity to lose of 
 putting them in the wrong. My answer has produced a 
 very good impression and is universally approved. These 
 gentlemen want to be prorogued, for reasons which you 
 may guess, but they shall not be. I should be glad if this 
 document were published as soon as possible, because it is 
 sure to appear in the Nord and the French papers. You 
 know all about the proceeding, and can make such intro- 
 ductory remarks as you think suited for the occasion. A 
 worse lot I never had to deal with, but I will have the best 
 of it with them still. 
 
 I have no news to give you. Thank God nearly two 
 months have passed, and by the end of May I shall be 
 delivered from these worthies. 
 
 I have just received your letter from London. I am glad 
 to hear that you have arrived safely, and are satisfied about 
 the Exhibition space allotted to us. I have no news to give 
 you. I go battling on with these fellows, and shall be 
 sincerely glad when it is all over. I miss you very much, 
 but it was quite right you should go. If you hear it said 
 that I am going to resign or come away, pray give it the 
 strongest denial. I remain here till the latest moment I am 
 permitted to do so. 
 
 During the summer and autumn of 1862, matters 
 were going on rapidly in Greece, and, on October 
 23, King Otho was deposed. He fled from Athens 
 with his Queen, and arrived at Corfu three days 
 later. Sir Henry Storks paid his respects to them 
 in the harbour. He told me afterwards that the 
 Queen was in a great state of excitement, walking 
 up and down. When speaking about the causes 
 of the Revolution she said, " Everybody wants to 
 be a Minister, and everybody can't be a Minister. 
 Everybody wants a place, and everybody can't get
 
 xxxm EXHIBITION LOTTERY 379 
 
 a place. Therefore there was constant discontent, 
 which we were unable to satisfy." 
 
 The following letter from the Lord High Com- 
 missioner may be considered interesting. It is 
 dated from Corfu, December 2, 1862 : — 
 
 I am not surprised at your having trouble about the 
 account, and in winding up the Exhibition. We have paid 
 the money advanced by the Ionian Bank, and I have desired 
 Boyd to acquaint you, which I believe he has done. 
 
 The Lottery is a good idea, and I think it is very kind 
 in Lady Palmerston to assist. Pray, if you have an oppor- 
 tunity, give my best compliments to her, and express my 
 thanks and the sense I entertain of her kindness. 
 
 When do you start ? and what are your plans ? I sup- 
 pose I shall not see you before January. 
 
 We enjoy perfect tranquillity here, although we take an 
 active interest in what is going on in Greece. Both there 
 and here the feeling in favour of Prince Alfred is at fever 
 point. There is little doubt of his being elected King of 
 Greece, for the public has declared itself in the strongest 
 manner about H.R.H. British policy here has contributed 
 considerably towards creating this feeling in favour of 
 England, her institutions, and her honesty. 
 
 The weather has been terrible — wind and heavy rain. 
 
 Before this letter was written, the British 
 Government had decided on annexing the Ionian 
 Islands to Greece, and was taking the necessary 
 steps by communicating with the other great 
 Powers.
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV 
 
 Sir George Dasent — Alleged plot in Corfu — Election of King of Greece 
 — Mr. Baillie Cochrane — Vote for union with Greece — Relinquish- 
 ment of Protectorate. 
 
 I have many letters written to me at the time by 
 Mr. — afterwards Sir George — Dasent. He used 
 to give the most interesting accounts of what was 
 going on both in Denmark and England. His 
 views were generally correct, and the letters were 
 a pleasant miscellany of current politics and gossip. 
 The following is an extract from one of them : — 
 
 You will have seen, if the telegraph is not lazy, that the 
 cession of the Islands is settled so far as our Government is 
 concerned. All now depends upon Greece, who had better 
 get herself a King without delay. 
 
 No one is in town except Hay ward, just come from 
 Bowood, where a lady was so icy as to be very agreeable in 
 that summer weather [written on January 8]. Till to-day 
 the air has been a great deal milder than an ordinary English 
 summer. 
 
 What have you done with that delinquent ? I saw 
 
 during my visit that many of the prizes [the Ionian raffle] 
 had not been claimed. He seemed delightfully ignorant 
 about the whole matter. What a fool the man is to be 
 impertinent to me ! So great a fool that I must forgive 
 him as the Turks do naturals. 
 
 380
 
 ch. xxxiv SIR GEORGE DASENT 381 
 
 I am very busy up to the eyes in Army examinations 
 which will last till well on in February. Borthwick I have 
 tried to see, but unsuccessfully. He is a good fellow, 
 though. 
 
 I am in a sad state of quarantine, for two brace of my 
 children have got the measles and five more persons in the 
 house have still to take them. You will be annexed and 
 
 back before I get a clean bill of health. That stupid 
 
 who has had the measles ever so many times is afraid to let 
 me go and see her. . . . 
 
 Gladstone is going to reduce, so as to get the income 
 tax to 7d. In that case he will defy Derby and all his 
 works. . . . 
 
 To-day I dined with the Royal Society. We had a very 
 bad dinner, in the course of which, finding that every one 
 round me was telling most terrific scientific lies, I was obliged 
 to draw on my invention for a lot of natural phenomena 
 observed in Iceland — every word of them untrue — which I 
 was asked to embody in a Paper. Catch me ! After dinner 
 we went to the Society itself, and heard a Paper read to 
 help our digestion "On the marked action of the gastric 
 juice on the coats of the stomach after death," illustrated by 
 diagrams of the stomachs of dogs and rabbits, as well as 
 those of seven persons who had died in a hospital of typhus, 
 stone, diphtheria, apoplexy, and all kinds of illness. This is 
 literally true. 
 
 There was another Paper " On the amatory instincts of 
 Canary Birds," but the gastric juice was as much as I could 
 digest, so I came here thanking God that I am not as other 
 men are, anatomists, geologists, chemists, astronomers, or 
 even as that publican who gave us the bad dinner. 
 
 About this time, there were rumours of a 
 conspiracy concocted at Rome for the restoration 
 of Francis II. to the throne of Naples. This 
 gave me perpetual correspondence with Sir James 
 Hudson. Letters also passed between us with 
 regard to the conveyance of the post to Corfu,
 
 382 ALLEGED CONSPIRACY ch. 
 
 in consequence of the proposed extension of the 
 railway to Brindisi. 
 
 With regard to the former matter, I wrote to 
 him on the 1st of June 1863 as follows : — 
 
 I think it better to give you some details at length . . . 
 as the Italian Consul does not seem to have complete 
 information. Three days ago he was challenged by the 
 L.H.C. to produce proofs of the alleged conspiracy, but has 
 failed to do so. 
 
 As for Malta, of course I cannot answer. For this place, 
 I can safely assert that we are in neither apparent nor real 
 ignorance of anything that goes on. 
 
 The real fact of the case was that we had 
 done everything possible to prevent any conspiring 
 against the settled state of affairs in Italy ; and we 
 found that the Consul, who suspected treachery, 
 acted on very imperfect data. His informants 
 were notorious. One of them had assisted the 
 brothers Bandiera in their well-known expedition, 
 and had then denounced them. The Italian 
 Consul accused a certain tobacconist in the town, 
 whose wife was related to a supporter of the 
 Bourbons, of being an agent for that party ; but 
 there was no evidence whatever against them. 
 These matters made some stir at the time. 
 
 On June 9, Sir James Hudson wrote me a 
 letter in which he said : 
 
 There has been doubtless much coming and going, 
 whispering and plotting, on the part of a set of persons 
 who find their account in sucking the unhappy Francesco II. 
 quite dry at Rome. 
 
 A Government can, of course, only judge by the evidence
 
 xxxiv SIR JAMES HUDSON 383 
 
 before it as to the value of the Conspiracy in a marketable 
 sense, and in the present case they [the Italian Government] 
 most certainly believed that there was something serious — 
 or rather more serious than usual — for not a week passes 
 but we have some bantling from that hatching -place of 
 plots, Rome. 
 
 You must therefore not be offended if much is said about 
 Corfu as a stepping-stone in the Conspiracy. 
 
 I have explained more than once that Her Majesty's 
 authorities cannot overstep the law to please anybody, or 
 serve any particular interest ; that we are just and equal to 
 all, and for all. . . . 
 
 I am of Sir H. Storks'* opinion as to this " Conspiracy " 
 or " Plot," or by whatever name it may be designated or 
 dignified. 
 
 I don't think it was ever more than a shadowy or seedy 
 affair ; for even supposing that there were 500 Bashi Bozuk 
 Albanians in the flesh, and armed to the teeth, what could 
 they do, seriously speaking, against Italy or for Francesco 
 II. ? Why, next to nothing. Morally speaking, they would 
 render Francesco's cause more odious, and physically and 
 practically they would be hunted down and shot, and there 
 would be an end of the great Malta-Corfu Conspiracy. 
 
 However, as prevention is better than cure, perhaps the 
 row that has been kicked up will be productive of much 
 good, more caution, and less zeal. 
 
 It may be interesting to state that, towards the 
 end of our stay in the Ionian Islands, amongst 
 the endeavours made to conciliate the inhabitants, 
 the British Government had determined to allow 
 Ionians to hold commissions in the British Army. 
 One was given, but without great success, for, on 
 the first occasion of a young Ionian officer being in 
 charge and ordering his soldiers to tell off in the 
 usual way, they gave the numerals in Greek. 
 
 The concluding period of England's tenure of
 
 384 ELECTION OF KING oh. 
 
 those States was remarkable, as showing the record 
 of an almost unique political act. It may therefore 
 be of some interest to go into detail in describing 
 this unparalleled incident in history. 
 
 The Greeks had had the greatest difficulty in 
 obtaining a King. They were enthusiastic for our 
 Prince Alfred. But this was impossible. Several 
 Powers had been appealed to, but in vain. The 
 Charivari published a caricature of some Greeks 
 standing like armed brigands on a rock, one saying 
 to the other : " Tant pis pour lid. The first man 
 who passes, we'll make him King ! " It ended, how- 
 ever, in the choice of Prince William of Denmark, 
 who accepted the throne, and began to reign on 
 October 31, 1863, under the name of George I., 
 King of the Hellenes. When his election was 
 announced in the previous June, the Archbishop 
 of Corfu ordered a Te Deum to be sung, at which 
 he invited the Lord High Commissioner to be 
 present. Sir Henry Storks made me his repre- 
 sentative, and I was accompanied by his aide-de- 
 camp, Lieutenant Baring. We were greeted with 
 cheers, and on our arrival at the church, " God 
 Save the Queen" was played. I was placed 
 between the Consuls of France and Russia. A 
 prayer was offered for the King of the Greeks, and 
 this was followed by the Danish National Air, and 
 cries of Z^reo. A prayer was next offered for Her 
 Majesty. " God Save the Queen " was again 
 played, and there was more shouting. Then came 
 a prayer for Union, and the Greek Hymn. Vast
 
 xxxiv MR. BAILLIE COCHRANE 385 
 
 crowds, carrying Greek and English flags, marched 
 to the Palace, where the Lord High Commissioner 
 was warmly cheered ; and the town was afterwards 
 illuminated. 
 
 Just about then I received an interesting letter 
 from Mr. Baillie Cochrane, who had always been 
 an enthusiastic admirer of Greece. I quote it 
 here, as it shows the feeling in England at the 
 time : — 
 
 I suppose that you are all in a great state of excite- 
 ment now that we may consider the cession of the Ionian 
 Islands as almost a fait accompli. The strange thing is 
 that our front bench accept it so quietly, and I think the 
 session will end without a word of remonstrance. 
 
 You were quite right in your views of the Eastern 
 Question. Gregory's debate elicited strong opinions from 
 the House, and it must have had a great effect on the 
 Continent. 
 
 I assisted last Monday at the Te Deum in honour of 
 the young King, and a very grand affair it was. The 
 sermon concluded with an aspiration that the Cross might 
 soon be planted in St. Sophia, on which the whole con- 
 gregation exclaimed Z?;tw, but the Greeks must be careful 
 not to go too fast, or they will alarm even their well- 
 wishers. I had little doubt of their ultimate success, but 
 they must learn to gang warily. 
 
 Here we are in the middle of June and Palmerston still 
 sailing on in smooth waters, and I see nothing likely to 
 ruffle the surface. It is, as Lytton says, a question of 
 succession. Any attempt to remove him would be fatal to 
 our party. Meanwhile the young move away. Gordon of 
 Berwick died yesterday, and I am told that Earle is already 
 in the field. I hope he will succeed. 
 
 Please let me know the state of feeling in the Ionian 
 Islands. I daresay they begin to regret the transfer, 
 saddled as they will be with a goodly portion of the Greek 
 VOL. I 2 C
 
 386 DISSOLUTION OF PARLIAMENT oh. 
 
 debt. What do you think of the Greek bonds rising to 
 40, which were down at 13, and at one time, I believe, at 
 4 or 5. 
 
 The story is that Bulwer is to leave Constantinople and 
 be made a peer. I mentioned this last night to Lord S. de 
 Redcliffe, whose face glowed with excitement. ... I know 
 no man so miserable out of place and pay. 
 
 I hope we shall meet soon. It is not unlikely we shall 
 visit Corfu during the winter ; but by that time I suppose 
 you will have started. 
 
 During the spring of 1863, it had been decided 
 that there should be a special election of Repre- 
 sentatives, to ascertain the wishes of the Ionian 
 people with regard to union with Greece. The 
 Parliament then sitting was to be dissolved by an 
 Order in Council ; the new Parliament was to vote 
 on the question of annexation to Greece or British 
 Protection, and then to be prorogued. 
 
 On July 25, the Lord High Commissioner 
 published the following proclamation : — 
 
 His Excellency the Lord High Commissioner is pleased 
 to publish for general information the following Pro- 
 clamation by Her Majesty in Council, dissolving the 
 present Parliament of these States, which is consequently 
 dissolved from the present date. 
 
 The Lord High Commissioner has received Her Majesty's 
 Commands to call the solemn attention of the Ionian People 
 to the reasons which have induced Her Majesty to dissolve 
 the Twelfth Parliament of the Ionian States. Her Majesty 
 the Protecting Sovereign has declared Her readiness to 
 consent to the Union of the Ionian Islands with Greece ; 
 and it is with a view to consult in the most formal and 
 authentic manner the wishes of the inhabitants of the 
 Ionian Islands as to their future destiny, that Her Majesty 
 is pleased to dissolve the present Parliament.
 
 xxxiv IONIAN ELECTIONS 387 
 
 The Ionian People will fully appreciate the responsibility 
 which rests on them in choosing their Representatives. 
 They are called upon to decide by this choice on the 
 momentous question now submitted to them, and the only 
 wish of Her Majesty is that they may be guided to a wise 
 decision, by which their happiness and prosperity may be 
 secured on a solid foundation. 
 
 By order of His Excellency, etc. 
 
 Shortly afterwards, I was instructed to send 
 the following notification to the residents of the 
 Islands : — 
 
 You are carefully to abstain from any interference, direct 
 or indirect, in favour of, or against any Candidates, either 
 before or during the forthcoming General Election, and you 
 will also give strict orders in the same sense to the Em- 
 ployes in the different Departments placed by the Con- 
 stitution under the special control of the Lord High 
 Commissioner, — further informing them that any infringe- 
 ment of His Excellency's injunctions on this point will be 
 attended with instant dismissal from the Public Service. 
 
 The foregoing instructions are not intended to restrict 
 any public Employe from the free exercise of the Elective 
 franchise ; but the Lord High Commissioner on this occasion 
 is determined to uphold the principle on which he has 
 hitherto acted, of securing the choice of the people from 
 all coercion on the part of the Executive. 
 
 By order of His Excellency, etc. 
 
 During August, M. Braestrup, an old Danish 
 statesman, supposed to have an acute knowledge 
 of character, came to Corfu to await the arrival 
 of the King. 
 
 The new Parliament assembled in September. 
 The Lord High Commissioner explained to them 
 the reason for their being summoned, and the
 
 388 UNION WITH GREECE oh. 
 
 procedure that should be followed to record the 
 wishes of the Ionian people. Sir Henry Storks 
 ended his speech with these words : 
 
 I now leave you to your deliberations, and in so doing 
 will merely echo the wish expressed by Her Majesty that 
 you may be guided to a wise decision, and that the national 
 happiness and prosperity of the Ionian people may by your 
 suffrages be secured on a solid foundation. 
 
 To this speech the President of the Assembly 
 made the following reply : — 
 
 My Lord — If it were in my power at this moment to 
 express my own opinion, and that of my fellow-members, I 
 would give you a reply immediately, but prescribed forms 
 do not allow me. I shall therefore in due time request you 
 to hear the reply of the Assembly, and I can assure you 
 that the Assembly, on taking the subject into consideration, 
 will pronounce a decision consonant with their national 
 dignity, — and they reserve themselves to adopt, on that 
 occasion, measures adequate to afford a proof of their 
 sentiments towards Her Most Gracious Majesty and the 
 Protecting Powers. 
 
 The Assembly then met with closed doors. 
 The Archbishop was sent for, and mass was 
 celebrated in the body of the Assembly, after 
 which the Archbishop blessed the Legislators. 
 The Assembly then voted an Address to be 
 presented to the Lord High Commissioner, and 
 the President read a Decree announcing that the 
 Ionian Islands "are united with the Kingdom of 
 Greece, in order to form for ever its indissoluble 
 part in a single and indivisible State, under the
 
 xxxiv GRATITUDE OF IONIANS 389 
 
 Constitutional Sceptre of His Majesty the King 
 of the Hellenes, George I., and His Successors." 
 
 On October 6, the President of the Legis- 
 lative Assembly, accompanied by all the Members, 
 attended at the Palace for the purpose of presenting 
 an Address to the Lord High Commissioner. It 
 ended with the following words : — 
 
 Excellency — The Assembly, amidst the inexpressible joy 
 which overflows the hearts of all, must express the gratitude 
 of the Ionian People to the Gracious Queen of Great Britain, 
 both for the generous decision She has taken, and Her kind 
 disposition towards the Greek Nation. 
 
 The same sentiment of gratitude the Assembly must also 
 declare towards the other Protecting Powers of Greece, both 
 for their co-operation and the realisation of the national 
 restoration of the Ionians, and their kind disposition towards 
 the Greek Nation. 
 
 Christian Europe, capable of appreciating the services 
 offered to mankind by the Greek race, will consent to assist 
 the Greek Nation in its full restoration, in the interests of 
 civilisation and the fulfilment of the Decrees of the Most 
 High. 
 
 In reply, the Lord High Commissioner announced 
 that he would communicate to the Legislative 
 Assembly, in due form, the detailed arrangements 
 necessary for the transfer of the Ionian States from 
 the Protectorate of Her Majesty the Queen to the 
 Kingdom of Greece. After this reply was read, 
 M. Curi, one of the Members for Corfu, advanced 
 and said in English, " God bless the Queen and the 
 magnanimous English Nation ! " 
 
 Rejoicings took place in Corfu for three days : 
 first, in honour of Union ; the second day, in honour
 
 390 CESSATION OF PROTECTORATE ch. 
 
 of the Queen ; and the third, in honour of the other 
 Protecting Powers. A mass was celebrated at the 
 tomb of Count John Capo d' lstria, the original 
 author of Ionian independence. 
 
 A Treaty was signed at the Foreign Office 
 in London on March 29, 1864, between Great 
 Britain, France, and Russia on the one part, and 
 Greece on the other, for the Union of the Ionian 
 Islands to Greece. It was made a condition of 
 our surrender of those States, that all the fortifi- 
 cations should be destroyed. For some time, 
 therefore, before the annexation I witnessed this 
 destruction being carried out by the British 
 engineers. It had to be done against the protests 
 of the Ionian people. But it was a most absorbing 
 spectacle to witness. 
 
 The Greek Envoy, M. Zaimis, arrived in Corfu 
 on May 19, to arrange with the Lord High Com- 
 missioner as to the form and manner in which 
 the Ionian States were to be ceded to Greece. 
 On the 24th, a levee and review were held in 
 honour of the Queen's Birthday. Sir Henry 
 Storks' reception was numerously attended. 
 
 On May 27, the 13th Parliament was dissolved 
 in obedience to Her Majesty's Order in Council, 
 dated April 7. 
 
 On June 2, 1864, the actual relinquishment of 
 the Protectorate took place. The Greek troops 
 had arrived on the previous day, but none were 
 allowed to disembark, except the number required 
 to relieve the guards, until the British garrison
 
 xxxiv DEPARTURE 391 
 
 should have sailed. Her Majesty's troops embarked 
 early on the morning of June 2. The Munici- 
 pality of Corfu presented them with an address, 
 ending with these words : 
 
 Farewell, brave sons of England ! Forget, as we do, 
 whatever may tend to mar our mutual love ! Love us, as 
 we love you, and desire that we may imitate your national 
 virtue ! 
 
 Sir Robert Garrett, commanding the Forces, in 
 his reply, made use of the following expressions : — 
 
 In the name of the private soldiers, whom I have the 
 honour to command, I request you will be pleased to make 
 known to the inhabitants of the countrv round Corfu, and 
 to those of the town itself, how fully they have appreciated 
 the kindly feelings which they have unremittingly exercised 
 towards them. 
 
 Again repeating the assurances of our very best wishes 
 for the welfare of you all, I now, in the name of the British 
 garrison, bid you most heartily, Farewell ! 
 
 After addressing a few words of farewell to the 
 friends assembled at the Palace to say good-bye, 
 Sir Henry Storks embarked on H.M.S. Marl- 
 borough under the usual salutes. The British 
 Colours were lowered, the Greek Flag run up on 
 the Forts, and the British Flags marched off and 
 embarked with Guards of Honour. The ships 
 then left for Malta, except the Marlborough, which 
 took Sir Henry Storks to Catacolo to meet the 
 King of the Hellenes. 
 
 Thus ended our connection with the Ionian 
 Islands.
 
 CHAPTER XXXV 
 
 Visit to England — Duke of Newcastle — Sir Edward Lytton — Lord 
 Carliugford — Islands transferred to Greece 
 
 Towards the end of 1863, the Government had 
 telegraphed to Sir Henry Storks to send me home 
 to concert a method for giving up the Islands. 
 This business kept me in England for about four 
 months. I saw Lord Russell and the authorities 
 at the Foreign Office, to which I was referred by 
 the Duke of Newcastle. On the 1st of November 
 he wrote me the following letter : — 
 
 I am very sorry I cannot be in town before Tuesday week 
 (10th), but as regards Ionian business I hope my absence 
 will be of little importance, for I consider that all matters 
 of consequence connected with it have passed out of my 
 hands and now rest with your old Department — the Foreign 
 Office. 
 
 I think you should at once see Hammond and ascertain 
 from him whether you should call on Lord Russell. 
 
 I do not think the protest against demolition of the 
 fortifications very powerful, though I have no doubt it is 
 more sincere than most emanations from the Assembly. 
 
 This proved to be almost the end of my con- 
 nection with the Duke. He was very ill at the 
 time, and died the following year. He was a 
 
 392
 
 ch. xxxv DUKE OF NEWCASTLE .393 
 
 most remarkable man, much beloved by those who 
 served under him. At one time I used to see a 
 good deal of him at the Athenaeum, where he 
 spent much of his leisure in the society of the 
 gentlemen mentioned in Sir Henry Storks' letters. 
 It may be considered interesting here to give 
 a few extracts from letters written to me while 
 I was in the Ionian Islands, which alluded to 
 various political matters. I will, first of all, quote 
 one from Sir Edward Lytton, dated January 25, 
 I860:— 
 
 Parliament has opened. The Commercial Treaty with 
 France is generally unpopular, and may not pass Parliament. 
 
 The Chinese papers I have looked over. I think the 
 Conservatives can make no handle of it. 
 
 I still think the Government will get through the Session, 
 but there are more breakers ahead for them than I foresaw ; 
 but their great advantage is that the Conservatives are not 
 ready to take office. 
 
 Walpole and Henley do not sit in the front row, but 
 three behind. 
 
 Further letters from Sir Edward Lytton show 
 how much interest was taken in what was con- 
 sidered a singular event — the cession of the Islands 
 to Greece. He wrote to me from Nice, on January 
 7, 1863, as follows :— 
 
 I begin to doubt whether Parliament will ratify the 
 Ionian Cession. The affair is much complicated by Elliot's 
 mission, and the request to Turkey to yield Thessaly and 
 Kpirus — much complicated also by the breakdown of Don 
 Ferdinand, and the uncertainty as to what Greece may do, 
 while, if she do not make a wise choice, to justify ceding the 
 isles, and dismembering Turkey, the blunder of Lord John
 
 394 THE IONIAN QUESTION ch. 
 
 will be without excuse — the Islands most difficult to govern, 
 and yet equally difficult to get rid of. ... I see that some 
 of the old Whigs, such as Ellice, who is here, are very angry 
 with Russell and the whole affair. Lord Stratford denounces 
 them. Roebuck, too, I am told, says the Ministers can't 
 last after the meeting of Parliament, if Elliot's message be 
 truly reported. Of that last I think there is no doubt. 
 
 I shall stay here as long as I can, but I expect to be back 
 in time for any party discussions — Ionian or otherwise — and 
 these must come early. 
 
 Nick, February 3, 1863. 
 
 ... I am asked by Dis to take up the Ionian Question. 
 I have agreed to speak on it, perhaps introduce ... I think 
 it bad for Greece, bad for the Islands, bad for Turkey, bad 
 for the British Empire. . . . 
 
 Judging by Storks 1 letter to me, he seems to favour the 
 cession, to disbelieve wholly about Thessaly and Epirus being 
 asked, and to go with the Government. . . . 
 
 What is to become of all the Protectorate party, the 
 Employes, etc. ? Is there any island besides Corfu where a 
 Jacquerie may be apprehended ? Qy. Cephalonia ? Are the 
 islands all of the same mind ? Are they all contented with 
 Athens for a capital, or do they look to Constantinople as 
 the Italians to Rome ? 
 
 On February 12 he wrote me the following 
 letter : — 
 
 I am still at Nice for two or three weeks more. At first 
 I was going back to initiate or join in a motion respecting 
 the Ionian Islands ; but Dis informs me that the renuncia- 
 tion of the Duke of Coburg leaves it, in the opinion of both 
 parties, so doubtful that the conditions for resigning the 
 Islands will be complied with, that there is not even a 
 plausible ground for any motion, and the cession of the 
 Islands certainly seems very doubtful after all — at all events, 
 indefinitely postponed. The absurd hash of the Government 
 will, no doubt, render it much more difficult to govern 
 them ; will have discouraged, I should think, the friends of
 
 xxxv WICKED PRECIPITATION 395 
 
 the Protectorate, and alarmed all our officials. And it may 
 be only a question of time for cession ; but it is clear that a 
 good King of Greece must be found first. 
 
 Dis writes that nothing can equal the apathy of Parlia- 
 ment, and that I need be in no hurry to return. In fact, I 
 should think that, with the Prince's marriage, nothing will 
 get Members together much before Easter, and after then 
 the Government will be probably quite safe. The Ionian 
 Question would have been a bad party fight for us, and I am 
 glad we are spared it. 
 
 Robert is pleased with his transfer at Copenhagen, where 
 in Paget's absence he acts as charge d'affaires. 
 
 On March 11, Sir Edward Lytton wrote to me 
 again from Nice : — 
 
 ... I conclude that the Ionian Question is suspended for 
 the moment, and I doubt whether the Islands will be ceded 
 for a long time. 
 
 Nothing can exceed the wicked precipitation of the 
 Government in an announcement which unsettled all things 
 in the Isles before anything was settled in Greece. 
 
 I hear on all sides from London that the political lull is 
 without parallel. Still there are indications of increased 
 weakness in the Government. I should not be surprised if 
 the Cabinet split into pieces at any moment. Lord Derby 
 seems, if he live, certain at all events for next year, though 
 perhaps not till after the Election. 
 
 Poland will prove a most difficult question to solve, and 
 may lead to wholly new combinations. But in England no 
 one thinks of Poles — only of the Royal Marriage. Robert 
 writes to me that he saw the Princess, and that all at Copen- 
 hagen bear testimony to the sweetness of her disposition. 
 
 The following; letter was written from Kneb- 
 worth on July 24, 18G3 :— 
 
 . . . Delays are inevitable, and not the Duke's fault, 
 though perhaps the Government's. 1st, Delay from the 
 new King and his Danish patrons ; 2nd, from the Great
 
 396 SQUARING THE CIRCLE ch. 
 
 Powers. Till these hitches are over there cannot be formal 
 annexation and surrender. 
 
 At present I am more and more satisfied, from all I see of 
 the House of Commons, that no step was taken there, and I 
 am more sure of this from further observation of the Duke s 
 character. I see that any appearance of opposition makes 
 him obstinate and hostile. I observed this in a recent 
 instance. 
 
 A certain Governor had a most strong claim for a certain 
 thing. The Duke, at the outset, was well disposed to grant 
 it, but he is very slow. My Governor got impatient, 
 resolved to press his claim more urgently. I advised him 
 not. I said, "Wait, and you will have what you want — 
 perhaps in a year. That is better than not having it at all." 
 No ! he pressed his case, teased the Duke, and, as I foresaw, 
 the Duke turned round and refused the thing rudely, and 
 altogether taking the chose wholly en gi'ippe. 
 
 The two following letters were at that time 
 written to me by Lord Carlingford — then Mr. 
 Chichester Fortescue : — 
 
 March 24, 1861. 
 
 Many thanks for your letter. I was very glad to have 
 your graphic account of the scenes, which have not only 
 roused to excitement the calm of the Colonial Office, but 
 attracted much attention in Parliament and the Town. You 
 will see the notice taken of them in the two Houses by those 
 kindred spirits, Maguire and Normanby. " Official informa- 
 tion " is to be laid before Parliament, but we will be careful 
 what we produce. One of the provoking parts of this 
 provoking business is that we cannot produce all that Storks 
 writes, and all that we think of your precious patriots ; and 
 that Europe and Ireland will take them as the exponents 
 and champions of an oppressed nationality. 
 
 You talk of some means of satisfying these people, without 
 sacrificing the rights of the Protecting Power. Pray let 
 me have your ideas on the subject, because it sounds like 
 squaring the circle. I heartily wish we were well rid of 
 them. Maguire has moved for Gladstone's correspondence
 
 xxxv PAINFUL SUSPENSE 397 
 
 and Papers since that time. It is a question whether to 
 give them, and the Duke and Cabinet have not yet decided. 
 At all events, he will get up a debate on Ionian affairs, for 
 the purpose of embarrassing the Government by comparisons 
 with their Italian policy — not because he loves any liberty 
 except his own, but because he loves the Pope and hates 
 England, especially certain Englishmen known by the names 
 of Palmerston and Russell. 
 
 I wish you would write me odds and ends of Ionian infor- 
 mation, and of your own views, which may be very useful in 
 case of debate. What would be the effect throughout the 
 Greeks of Turkey, Candia, etc., if the Ionian Islands were 
 handed over to Greece, merely on the principle of nationality? 
 Would it not do more to break up the Turkish establish- 
 ment than all our efforts have done to preserve it ? What 
 is thought about it in Greece, and by the Greek Govern- 
 ment ? What is likely to happen when the Parliament 
 meets again ? and when must the Dissolution take place ? 
 
 April 1G, 1861. 
 
 ... I, for one, should feel bound to urge and assist in a 
 revision of the Ionian Constitution, if I could see my way to 
 it without passing through a coup cVHut on the threshold. 
 But I see no legal opening. 
 
 It will be seen from this correspondence how 
 much the question filled the thoughts of the 
 British Government, and how long a time was 
 spent in carrying out the measure of transferring 
 the Islands to Greece. The suspense was very 
 painful to all parties — to ourselves, whose future 
 movements were thus undecided, and to the 
 Greeks, amongst whom there was great divergence 
 of opinion. Some Greeks, especially those of the 
 landlord class, looked upon the annexation as fatal 
 to their interests, even, perhaps, to their lives.
 
 398 NEW CORFU ch. xxxv 
 
 The prolonged suspense was on all sides a great 
 ordeal. At length, however, as has been seen, we 
 did leave the Islands, and a few days afterwards 
 I received, from a commissariat officer who had 
 been left to carry out some details, an interesting 
 account of Corfu : — 
 
 The change to us few remaining Britons is painful 
 enough ; but nothing can exceed the respect and courtesy 
 with which we are treated by all classes. 
 
 The Greek garrison in Corfu consists of 400 men, not ill- 
 dressed and fairly set up. The same number is scattered 
 over the Islands. They are amazed at the beauty and the 
 cleanliness of the barracks, and are already overcoming the 
 latter defect. 
 
 As I write, the King is entering the harbour : I hear he 
 will stay a week. 
 
 The Exodus went off capitally, and the people behaved 
 very well, and cheered louder than I thought they could have 
 done. Philadelphia is not a more complete city of Quakers, 
 and the Esplanade is the most formidable battery left. 
 
 Taylor's 1 signboard came down with the British Ensign 
 on the 2nd, and Courage's 2 receipts have amounted to 
 18/7d. ! 
 
 1 The general shop. 2 A grocer. 
 
 END OF VOL. I 
 
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