:..' r-JF AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF ^ ^^* BENJAMIN WEBSTER |3e^^^ K ^flJ J I Hn i Ui TI t a t'S' T • r .^.;; _'■'■ •"'t»*»""'^ ■■'-"•• ''"*;;■ !*" University of California • Berkeley Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2007 with funding from JVIicrosoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/autobiographyofcOOwebsrich ^s^^rr- I THiS BOOK BELONGS — I O — U [v nTTn iTTTTiTTTTTrrnTTT » lilt !• iVwMii i iiii 1 1 lit I i . Ui 1 1 1 1 11 1 > t (11 1 i 1 i 111 1 1 lit iiiiui 1 1 i tilt: I- i B ! 1 1 il i I I! \ 3t>.^y\\^o 3 3 OO o 5 • O 13 ''55 ' 5 > J ".V ,' ' ' 1 ' ' ) 15 of whiskey to me and I drew the cork, and she probably turned out two or three tablespoonfuls, and added as much lavender. This wa;:^ merely to give it a coloring so that he should not dis- cover that it was whiskey. So I harnessed my horse and drove three and a half miles to my father's. It was very cold, I put u]» my horse, went into the house and found my father sitting in a big chair all wrapped up in blankets or shawls. I said, "lather, how are }0u?" His reply was, "0 Benjamin, I have got almost through." Mother says "The doctor's medicine doesn't do him any good and he is all down at the heel." My reply was "0 don't feel that way, father, I've got some medicine here that is going to help you. A friend of mine brought it from Montreal, and gave me this bottle months ago. Xow, mother, get me a glass and a little water, some sugar and a tablespoon.'^ I mixed the water and sugar, then measured out very carefully perhaps two tablespoonfuls. "There," said I, "Father, take this down; this is the medicine that is going to help you." He took it down at once, suspecting that it might be something unpleasant to the taste, but when the glass was emptied he smacked his lips and said, "Benjamin, there's spirits in that." "I don't care if thtie is, I know that it is going to do you good. Mother, you see iiist how I have prepared this, I want you to give him just about the same liiiee times a day." I went there often and soon dis- covered (hat be was gradually gaining in health. He went on taking the medicine till it was all gone, then h? was out doors attending to his Spring's work. My mother says to me "Can't you get another bottle of that medicine for father ? He doesn't need it now, but should he get down again I should like to have it in the house." He lived over two years after this and my mother four. They both died and never mistrusted that this medicine was nothing but whiskey. CHAPTER IV. MY BOYHOOD. In 1861 I took charge of a ship that I owned half of and was absent almost three years. My father died in my absence, in November '62, and on my return we erected a monument to his memory. Since then I have put a granite base around the fam- ily lot. I visit it in the summer time and see that this family lot is well cared for. I was born February 25, 1814. I suppose that I was like all other boys brought up with a large family and attended a dis- trict school, probably as early as five years old, and had to walk about a mile, carrying a lunch. The roads were but little trav- eled, so that the snow was often ankle-deep and sometimes half way to the knees. As the direction of the schoolhouse was about north, we had to face those cold northwest and notheast winds which we often found very tedious. One very cold morning we were within about one-eight of a mile of the schoolhouse, I was completely chilled and became very sleepy and tumbled down. My sister Hannah, being always in the right place at the right time, pulled me up, and she and my sister Rachel one on each side, hastened me along almost more dead than alive to the school- house. What a situation this was to begin a day of study at school in. Our winter schools were from eight to ten weeks, summer schools about the same length. I never attended summer schools much, for as soon as I was able to be any use on the farm I was kept at home. My father was generally away summers, and the management of everything came upon my mother. She was a great financier, and understood the management of things well. If she had not been so, she would not have been able to bring up the family of children that she did on the means that she had, and make the good appearance she did with them. I remember one time I was sent on an errand with the horse and wagon, about a mile away from home. I had done the er- rand, got into the wagon and started for home. Going down the hill the horse started on a run. I braced my feet and held on the reins with all the strength and vigor that any other eight year old boy could have done, but still, making a turn, out I went and one of the wagon wheels passed over my bare foot. The horse 17 had turned up the road out of sight, but I up and ran after him. As I went round the turn of the road, I saw a man had stopped the horse and held him by the head. I ran until I came up with them, got into the wagon, drove home, unharnessed the horse and put him in the pasture, and gave my mother the answer to the errand upon which I had been sent. I did not dare to say a word about being thrown out of the wagon, for fear that I would not be trusted away with the horse again. This was about the season of hoeing the potatoes, and I used to work in the field alone, my foot paining me terribly. After about three days I told a boy the whole circumstances; he told a woman, a neighbor of ours about it, how my foot pained me and that I could hardly walk, but that still when I came in sight of my mother I straightened up and walked as though I was all right in every joint. This woman came down and told my mother all about it. Nothing was said till I came from the field, when to my surprise my mother related all the circumstances to me. I don't remember just what she said, but I do believe that there were fully as many hills of potatoes hoed as though I had not fallen out of the wagon. Another adventure I had with this horse and carriage. I was going on an errand and a young man in the neighborhood helped me harness the horse. When the horse was harnessed, I well re- member telling him that the horse was too near the wagon and that the tugs ought to be lengthened out and the breeching taken up. He said it was all right and I started off. Going down the first hill the wagon came upon the horse and he started on a run. As I was ascending the next hill, standing up and holding on with all my might, to check the horse, — all to no purpose, I discovered two young women one of whom had a sled-stake perhaps four or five feet long. As the horse came up she struck him squarely in the head with this stake. I think the horse went on his knees, and I went sprawling on the ground. These young women helped me fix the harness right and 1 proceeded safely, did my errand and returned home. I never told my mother of this and don't think she ever heard of this adventure. I have always remem- bered with the kindliest feelings this young woman who displayed such presence of mind. She afterward married and lived in Bangor, — is now deceased. I had many other adventures with this horse. ' One time he was unharnessed from the wagon. I got on him to drive him to the pasture. He started on a run, and off I went. He either stepped on me or kicked me, and made the blood come. I have marks of the wound still, although they were received perhaps seventy-four or seventy-five years ago. The horse went to the 18 bars and stopped ; I let the bars down, took the bridle from him, and went home with my face bleeding. Another time I went to put him in the pasture, and he started on a run, leaped over the bars, off I went, and the horse we never got for three days. I don't remember anything about the bridle. I remember one more incident with this horse. I was sent to mill. The bags of grain placed upon the horse's back, and I on top of them, jogged off to the mill, three and a half miles. I rode right into the mill, the miller took the bags from the horse, I led the horse to the shed; then when the grist was ground I led the horse into the mill again, the miller placed the bags on the horse and me on top of them. I went home, doubtless feeling smart as though I was doing the work of a man, although not over nine years old. In my school days I had to walk home a mile, and, — my father being absent, — some of the time I had to do all the work of the farm in his stead, such as to put up the cattle, consisting of a yoke of oxen, three or four cows, two or three young cattle, feed them, get in a big pile of wood for the large fireplace, all before supper, although it might not be before dark. So things went on probably much the same as with the other boys until the summer I was ten years old. What work was done on the farm was hired by the day except what I did. Well do I re- member the lonely days I spent hoeing corn and potatoes by my- self. When it came fall I had them to dig. One day I had the sled with flour barrels on it at the potato patch, and had been dig- ging and filling the barrels ; then when they were full, I got the oxen and put them on the sled to haul them to the house. The oxen feeling that they were overloaded, I worked away with them, geeing and hawing, but made but very little progress. Mother seeing how things were, sent one of the little girls down to me with the message, that it was of no use for me to try any longer, but dig a hole in the ground and empty the potatoes all in and cover them up so they shouldn't freeze. Xow this was half a day's work for a man. I had been getti*ng angry because the oxen wouldn't haul the load, and when this message came from my mother, it made me feel as though my anger was more than I could contain, as those oxen realized by the welts that I put on to them with the goad; as strength often comes with anger, those oxen started, and we went to the house, oxen were taken off and put up, and potatoes put into the cellar. This day's work was not ended until after dark. The next summer, father being away, we went on farming as usual. In the fall I got some time to hire out with a neighbor, 19 digging potatoes at a quarter of a dollar a day. I earned in all something over a dollar. I was paid and felt pleased with the amount of money I had, the first that I had ever earned and had been paid in my life. Now comes my stupidity and my mother's great financiering. I claimed this as my money ; she says "0 now we'll sell you a lamb.^' So I was pleased and paid her over all the money for a spring lamb. There was a certain mark on it so that it was known as my lamb. Things went on, and the lamb grew to be a sheep. Increase came, till I thought I had a number of sheep. Being absent from home all summer, stopping at home the winter, I began to enquire for my sheep and lambs. "0," my mother said, "we sold the sheep with the others we sold." "Well, about my lambs, where are they ?" "0 they are so mixed up with the others you can't tell them apart." Thus ended the first business transaction of my life. Our nearest neighbor was about two-hundred yards away, across the road, and within speaking distance. These people never owned a timepiece of any kind, and it was a common thing to hear them call from their door to ask what time it was. The mother raised up a large family. The husband was always away summers in the coasting business, and the boys were grown up and all gone away, and at the time of which I speak the family consisted of the mother who was crazy and the two daughters from eighteen to twenty-four years of • age. I think this was the summer that I was seven years old. My mother called me one morning early and said, "Run quick for Mr. Chase, for Mrs. Loring is beating the girls terribly." I out of bed and grabbed my pants, stopping for nothing else. As I went by the house the crazy woman had the two girls by the hair of their heads, having it all twisted in her hands so that their ^f aces were close together, while she slapped them in their faces with a shoe. I was but a few rods from the house, when I saw Mr. Chase turn- ing his cows into the pasture, I hollered at the top of my voice, "Come quick ! Mrs. Loring is killing the girls !" He didn't stop to put up the bars, but started on the run. Before he came up with me I had time to put on my pants. We ran together, and I well remember how he grabbed that crazy woman by the throat. His grasp was so strong, that there. appeared to be but one alternative for her, — to let go of the girls' hair or be choked to death. She chose the former. At another time this crazy woman had an encounter with me. I and another boy about a year older than myself were digging potatoes, and she came out and ordered us away. As we didn't go immediately, she started on a run after us. The other bov 20 dropped his hoe and ran, but as I didn't choose to run she grabbed me and was giving me a terrible shaking, while at a small dis- tance away the other boy began to pelt her with potatoes, being however, as liable to hit me as he was her. How I released my- self from her I hardly know, but as soon as I was, I joined the other boy in pelting her with potatoes, and she was soon driven from the field. I remember one other incident with regard to this crazy woman. It seems that her daughters were preparing for baking and had a fire in the brick oven in the kitchen. One of my little sisters went in and the crazy woman started toward her, and said, "I'll put you into that oven." One of the kitchen windows being open she leaped through the window, and in one bound was safe on the ground, and ran for home terribly fright- ened. CHAPTER V. SEA LIFE COMMENCED. The spring that I was twelve years old, I walked from my father's house three miles and a half and went on board of a coaster, and commenced my new occupation as cook at $4.50 per month. Our first trip was to Plymouth, Mass. I well remem- ber on our return that I went home to spend the night, and doubtless I felt as though I had accomplished a great achieve- ment. Doubtless this trip to Plymouth seemed more to me than the one later in life in which I made a voyage to Europe and back again. The vessel that I began going to sea in was the sloop Friendship, forty-three years old. I continued in her making trips to different places, going once to Newburyport: As the Captain was not acquainted there we had to wait outside the bar until a pilot came. I well remember all the marks that the pilot told the captain, — how to go over the bar, — all the ranges and marks from the bar to the city, and I remember it all as distinctly as if it were but a few weeks ago, instead of seventy years. Thir- teen years afterwards I was master of a vessel from New Orleans, deeply loaded with a cargo of corn, pork and lard for Newbury- port. I carried my vessel in over the bar and up to the wharf and out without a pilot, going by the marks and ranges that I heard the pilot describe to the Captain thirteen years before. About the month of July, the owners of the vessel that I was in had built a schooner and named her the Lucy. They took me from this sloop and made me cook of the schooner, at an advance in wages of 50 cents per month making $5. We continued coasting to different places. One of our trips was to New York, with a cargo of granite. This was used towards building the U. S. hotel. I well remember one Sunday afternoon that I had liberty and felt as though I should like to go to church. I strolled round and by enquiring found out where the seaman's Bethel was. We had to go up some three to five steps to enter the door. I stood there not having confidence enough to go in ; although there were people going in all the time, no one took any notice of me. At last a gentleman came along— I remember him well — stopped and spoke to me and asked me if I wouldn't go in to meeting. I 22 think he took me by the hand and led me to a seat up the center aisle a few seats from the pulpit. Then he went into the pulpit. I often went to hear this man preach. Sixteen years afterwards I went there to meeting again. I waited till the minister — the same man, Kev. Mr. Chase — came from the pulpit, then made my business known to him. That night he married me to the woman that I lived with fifty-one years and two months. Late in the fall, the schooner went up Royal's River, to what is called Davis' Landing to load with another cargo of granite for New York. To get up this narrow river we have to work tide-work — have a rope out on each bow of the vessel and men on the salt marsh hauling her up by these ropes. One night while we were getting her up shortly before daylight I had to go and pull on these ropes as well as the men, although not thirteen years old. When I jumped out of the boat on to the salt-marsh, I jumped into ice perhaps as thick as window-glass that had made along the edge of the marsh and I was barefooted. When this vessel was loaded to go away I left her to stop ashore to go to school perhaps eight or ten weeks. In all this time I had drawn not any of my wages, but as there were no steam- boats or railroads at that time, we frequently had a passenger or two. Sometimes they would give me a little change. Days after I came home, my father went to Yarmouth, as I believe, to settle up with the owner of the vessel and get my wages. He came home and we got our supper, and as we were sitting around the old-fashioned kitchen fire, he took out his pocketbook and handed it to my mother, saying "Here Mary, put this in the desk." She went with it into the other room, and came out and handed me a quarter of a dollar. This is what I received from my eight months' work as cook of a coaster. This seems but a small amount in these days for a boy to have to last him through the winter. Early in the spring I started again as cook on board the schooner Milo, Captain David Seabury of Yarmouth. In about ten months Captain Seabury gave her up to Captain William Chandler. I remained through the whole summer, then Captain Chandler got a larger vessel, and I went with him away for the winter. For the next five years I was in different vessels, some of the time fishing and some of the time coasting. In March, 1832, 1 came to Portland looking round the wharves, and found the brig Globe. She was called quite a large vessel for those days — three-hundred and eighteen tons, and carried a crew of eight men besides the officers. I found out where the 23 owner lived, and went to his house knocked or rang the bell ; the owner himself, who was Captain Samuel Porter, formerly of Freeport, and who had built this vessel in Freeport, come to the door. I made known that I wanted a chance to go in his vessel. "Where do you belong ?" said he. I replied "Freeport." "What^s your name?" "Webster." "Are you Captain Ben. Webster's boy?" "I am." I made arrangements with him to come down and join^the vessel the next week. Before I left him, I wanted to know how much wages he would give me. "0," he said, "I shall give you what is right," or words to that effect. I came down at the appointed time, and carried my clothing on board the vessel. There was no one there but the mate, and so I went to the owner's house again, and told him I had come at the time appointed. "Well," he said, "I suppose you want two or three days to look around and see the place?" "No sir," I replied, "I came at the time you told me, and I have no money to pay my expenses to be idle." "Well,^' he said, "you go down aboard the vessel and I'll be down soon." He soon came down and had a talk with the mate, which resulted in five other young fellows and a cook joining the vessel the next morning. We went on loading this vessel, the cargo being mostly mackerel and hay, and the mate acting as stevedore. His name was Hacker, from' Brunswick, an excellent sailor man. I think he must have taken quite a liking to me for he gave me a great deal of valuable in- struction such as teaching me navigation and so on. We, six young fellows and the mate, did all the work in loading this vessel, bent all her sails and got her ready for sea. Then the other men were shipped and the second mate and the Captain who was Captain Joseph Dennison of Freeport, and we sailed for Xew Orleans. We had a fifty-three days' passage from Portland to New Orleans. We got all out of water except some casks between decks that had been aboard the vessel all winter in Portland and froze up. But as we had been in warm weather so long they had thawed out, and we had to commence using the water from these. But it smelled very bad and tasted worse if possible, so we drank very little, only enough to get along with. After we arrived in New Orleans these casks were hoisted out on deck, and the water ran out of them, and out came a number of dead rats, the hair washed off them and the remainder of them pretty well soaked up. When we saw this many of us turned away sick. It appears that when this vessel came home to Portland these casks were filled with water and the bungs being left out the rats went in for water. 24 We discharged this vessel as we had loaded her in Portland, without any extra hired help, then loaded with cotton for Liver- pool. Before we left New Orleans, it became very sickly with fever and cholera. When we arrived in Liverpool we found they had the cholera very bad there, but we all escaped it, discharged our cotton, and loaded with salt for Portland. My next vessel that I joined was the topsail schooner Mary. I was in her some three or four months and we returned to Yarmouth, where all hands and the mate were discharged except the Captain and my- self. CHAPTER VI. t MY COMMENCEMENT AS MATE. • He offered me the mate's situation and I accepted it, although but a few months over nineteen vears old. I remained with this vessel some over a year ; made two trips to Philadelphia as mate of another schooner, then joined the new brig Stranger, Captain Clement Soule of Freeport. Eleven months after I joined thi^» vessel as mate we were loading in New York for Mobile in the month of July, and Captain Soule offered me the command of this vessel. Then I was about twenty-one years and six months old. I told him that I could not accept the situation, giving as my reasons that I thought that I had not had experience enough to take the command on the voyage that the vessel was to make. I told him that the following months were hurricane months, and if I was master and should become dismasted on getting into a hurricane, or if we arrived in Mobile and the crew became sick, it being the sickly season, it would be a bad beginning for me. I told him that, under all the circumstances, I could not accept the situation, but I would continue mate with him if he went the voyage. We arrived in Mobile safely and left in ballast for New York. Soon after we got to sea some of the men were taken down sick. Then I was taken sick soon after. With so many of us down sick there was not enough crew to handle the vessel, and the Captain put into Wilmington, North Carolina, getting some from the pilot boat to get the vessel in. As soon as he arrived he summoned a doctor on board and they got me ashore that night, put me in a comfortable room in a public house, and a negro woman for a nurse. The doctor came again that evening. I did not have my senses much of the time but the doctor giving instructions to the nurse, I heard him sav to her "He won't live till morning." Next morning he came and examined me, and said, "You are better, I think you will get over it." My brother William, younger than myself, was one of the crew. Days after as I grew better, I enquired of the Captain where my brother William was. He told me that he had got a sail loft and he was there with the rest under the care of a doctor. I urged him to get a room in the house where I was, and have my brother come up 26 there. We remained there till we were convalescent, and re- turned to the vessel, loaded for Boston, and arrived there and discharged our cargo, then sailed for home in Freeport. Perhaps I stayed at home a month or six weeks and then I joined the same vessel and the same Captain and sailed for New York. While loading there for Appalachicola, I was taken sick again, and had the chills and fever badly, so that I had to leave and come home to my father's. I was then not twenty-two years old. I remained there most of the winter, suffering with the chills and fever. In the spring I came to Portland. Being a stranger here and quite young for a chief mate's sit- uation, I found no chance in that capacity. I shipped before the mast in the brig Edward, Captain Melcher, his brother being mate. We went to a number of ports in the Windward Islands but did not find a market to suit him, so he went to Saint Jago. There he sold the cargo and took a freight for New York, it be- ing a cargo of molasses. The mate being sick the Captain said to me, "Can you stow this cargo ?" "Yes, sir, if you will go down and show me how to commence, and come down occasionally and see how I am getting along and give me all the instructions you think I need, I can do it." This cargo was stowed in that way and all delivered in good order, no casks out, although I had never seen a cask of molasses stowed. We came to New York and discharged on the quaran- tine ground. One morning after the vessel was discharged, the cook came forward and told me the Captain wanted me. I went into the cabin and he said : — "Sit down here and take breakfast with me. I am going to make a mate of you." I told him I couldn't accept the situation. "There are those men forward," I said, "They won't feel right about it if I leave them and come aft." "0," he said, "I'll fix that." So he told the cook to go and tell them all to come aft. They came and he said to them :— "I am going to take Ben for mate, and he will be Mr. Webster in the future. Now which had you rather, that he should be mate of this vessel in which you are going, or that I should go and get a stranger ?" It was their unanimous wish that I should be the mate. They went forward to their breakfast, and I to the cabin and took mine with the Captain. We made one voyage and returned to Portland. Everything was pleasant between the Captain and me. The first day after "we came in the Captain said to me : — "My brother has always been with me since I have had this vessel and he has got over his sickness and wants the situation again ; but I'll get you a situa- tion in few days." So I picked up, and started for Freeport to 27 make a visit. 1 had been at home three days when I received a letter from Captain Melcher to come to Portland at once for he had a situation for me. I lost no time in complying with his re- quest. On my arrival here he introduced me to Captain Newton, brig Rodney, and he asked me many questions, he being a man about forty years old and well posted in everything relating to master and mate's duty. After he had put all the questions to me that he thought necessary, and it appeared that they were answered satisfactory to him, then I asked what my wages would be. His reply was, "I shall have to go round to see Captain Clapp the owner of the vessel ; he will arrange that." We went to his counting-room and Captain Newton said, ^^This is the young man we sent to Freeport for. I think I should like to have him but he wants to know what the wages are to be." Captain Clapp's reply was, "Twenty-five dollars." "But I want thirty, sir," I replied. "Well, you can't have it here," he returned. He was a rough old fellow and would swear at every word. I was glad to get the situation and agreed to join the vessel the next afternoon at four o'clock. 1 went to Freeport and got my things and was there before the time appointed. Captain Newton was on board the vessel, said to me, after I had got all my things aboard : "Now if you want to go up and get any things, you bet- ter go now, and then come back and select your lines, for the vessel will have to be put into the stream at eleven o'clock to- night." As I was going up the wharf, I heard some one hollering, "You^ Mr. Mate !" I looked back and u.p, and there was Captain Clapp's head out of the window. He said, "Where in hell are you going to ?" "Going up to town, sir, and I'll be back at the time I agreed to, — four o'clock." "Well, you see that you are !" So I went up the wharf, and I suppose he took his head out of the window for I didn't see him any more till the next morning. That night at high water the vessel didn't float, and the next morning Captain Clapp came down alongside and hollers out, — • "You, Mr. Mate ? Is the Captain here ?" "No, sir." "Did he stay here last night ?" "Yes, sir." "Where is he now ?" "I suppose he is after his breakfast." "He's a damned long time a'getting on it." We lay tide-nipped for three days. In that time I began to perceive what sort of a man the Captain was, and to find that he was a "regular Tartar." We had not reached Cape Elizabeth lights before I began to realize it. I saw him go at a sailor with a piece of wood two feet long. Nothing particular occurred on the passage and we arrived at Mayaguez, Porto Rico. Our 28 cargo was lumber ; it had to be made into rafts and towed ashore. We used to calculate to get ashore as soon as it was light enough to see the marks on the boards. Then this lumber had to be dragged up by our men some thirty feet ; each man as he dragged up his board would sing out the mark on his board, I keeping the account with a Spanish clerk. We generally arrived back if we had good luck at about nine o'clock or ten o'clock A. M. and all this time, — perhaps since three o'clock in the morning — the men had no coffee and nothing to eat. One morning in par- ticular there was a strong land breeze so that we were a long time in getting the raft ashore and we didn't get through to return to the vessel till after eleven o'clock A. M. As I returned to the vessel with six men, I went up over the side, and the Captain says to me — "Mr. Webster, you've been a damned long time this morning getting that raft hauled up." I replied, — "There was a very strong land breeze this morning and we were a long time getting ashore." "0 I've been watching them with a glass this morning. They have moved like a parcel of lazy crabs." By that time the men were on deck. I said "Cook, give the men their breakfast." "Yes," said the Captain, "and may God grant that it chokes every damned one of them to death." So we went on till the vessel was discharged; late breakfasts and terribly poor living, then sailed from there in ballast to Wil- mington, and arrived there safely. The men couldn't get theif discharge, because they were shipped for a double voyage. We loaded there again to return to Mayaguez. On going out the vessel struck on the bar, and started leaking, so that one pump was kept going about all the time, and when we got a strong wind the Captain felt more crabbed than he did some other times, but never pleasant. Then he would carry sail so hard that the ves- sel would leak so badly that we couldn't keep the water out with one pump, and she would get considerable water in her. After a while he would say; "Turn all hands to at the pumps." No difference was made whether night or day, both pumps would be going for a long time, and perhaps after hours, the men work^ ing at the pumps till they were pretty well tired out, — then the Captain would order sail taken off the vessel. Then the vessel would go easier and we could get the water out of the vessel and one pump would keep her free. This is the way that a number of nights were passed, — hard work, poor living, and not time enough to sleep. We arrived in Mayaguez, went through the same as the voyage before, — rafting lumber, getting it ashore, and dragging it up. Then we loaded with a cargo of sugar for New York. On the passage to New York there was trouble be- 29 tween the Captain and me; I stood his abusive language for a long time, then I told him '^the hard work I had done and now I am receiving nothing but abuse from you." His reply was, '''Well there's one thing more you shall receive from me ; you are no longer mate of this vessel. I knock you off duty from this miinute." That ended our conversation for about twenty-four hours. Then the next day being a very pleasant day he says to me; — "Mr. Webster, don't you intend to do any more duty aboard this vessel ?" "That depends altogether with you, sir. You knocked me off duty and you can turn me to when you want me." "I want you to commence your duty again as mate." My reply was, "I am very glad to do it, sir." So I took charge of the men and the work again. Things went along about as usual and we arrived at Xew York and discharged our cargo and commenced loading for Mayaguez. The voyage being up the men promptly left. One rainy day, no work going on, the Captain came on board in the forenoon, — he boarded ashore and only came aboard occas- ionally, — and said to me, "Mr. Webster, as there's no work going on to-day, you better make out a list of all the ship chandleries that it is necessary to have." I said, "Do you calculate for me to go in this vessel another voyage?" "Certainly I do." Then you must raise my wages $5 a month." "Yes, I calculated to do it, and sliould have told you of it when j^ou came to ship for the voyage." We 5r>ailed with a whole new crew, — I think not more than half of them could speak English — and a cook who was drunk when we left. Aiter he got over his drunken spree he was sick. The Captain used to beat him and flog him shamefully. One day in the atternoon I went by the galley door and there was the cook lying on the floor. I spoke to him. His reply was, "0 Mr. Webster, that man will kill me, you must intercede for me !" I went into the cabin. The Captain was in his berth asleep. I spoke to him, and he waked up and said, "What's wanted ?" My reply was, "I am satisfied that the cook is sick and he ought to have some medicine." He flew out of his berth like a wildcat "Damn him, I'll give him medicine, you go and fetch him aft.". I went and got him up out of the galley, and told him that he must go aft. By that time the captain was on deck with a big piece of rope in his hand. These doings attracted the attention of all the men. The Captain says, "Seize him up to them back stays." As I didn't move immediately, he said, "Ain't you going to obey my orders ?" "Xo, sir, not in this case. I will obey your 80 orders in all reasonable requests, but I will not seize that man up, neither shall it be done/^ He turned and went into the cabin. Probably I didn't see him again till supper. We partook of our meal which was hard bread and dry salt beef. This affair was never alluded to by him or me. I received my orders as usual. Things went on without incident and we arrived at Mayaguez. We discharged the cargo and loaded for Portland. Nothing of note transpired on the passage, ex- cept one man was kicked by the Captain till he fell overboard. The vessel being in the stays was lying about dead in the water not going ahead any. When the man fell the Captain was very much frightened to see what he had done and cried out "Save thi& man. Save him for my sake.'^ We arrived in Portland late in the evening. The Captain went on shore, leaving instructions for me to warp the vessel up the harbor, which I commenced doing at daylight in the morning; and when I had got her up aiid come to anchor I received a note from him "Unbend all sails ; unweave the running rigging ; tally it all and stow it away ; then let the men come ashore and you can come with them.'' In the meantime a ship-keeper had come on board. I had made arrangements with the Captain to go with him again ; but this vessel was to be laid up for some time and I took a chance to go on a schooner to Alexandria instead of being idle so long. When I returned the vessel had gone. Then I went on board of a large Boston topsail schooner, and the Captain and I took this vessel on shares, I to share equally with him. We made a voyage to Matanzas and back and then a voyage to Mayaguez. When we arrived there we found the brig Rodney, Captain ISTew- ton, that I had made three voyages with. He came on board this vessel that I was mate of a number of evenings, and in fact he was more sociable with me than he had ever been while I was his mate. It seemed as though he liked to come and have a so- ciable talk with me. I remember one evening he told me that he didn't get on shore as early as usual in the morning, as one of his sailors had died in the night and he had to carry him on shore to bury him. He -said the man hadn't been well for a few days and the day before he gave him a dose of salts, and he died the next night. This showed that he had no feeling for a sick man or a sailor. He returned to Portland, and sailed again for Porto Rico or Mayaguez and was washed overboard and lost on the passage. So ended his life. I don't think he had a relative in this country and I don't know as there was any one to mourn his loss. CHAPTER VII. STARTING AS CAPTAIN. We returned to Boston in our schooner, discharged the cargo, and the Captain was going home to see his family. Before he went he told me that Mr, Jackson, the owner of the vessel, was coming down to see me that afternoon. He did come and said to me: — "I am offered two freights for this vessel, and I want to know which one you would prefer." I was very much surprised that he should ask me, — the mate this question. Then he said "I intended for you to go Captain." This surprised me more. My reply was, — "I cannot take charge of this vessel, unless Cap- tain Chandler chooses to leave her." He said "He is not going in her again." "Well, I can't take her if he wants to go in her. If he does not I should like to have her." He said "I will write down to him and get a letter and show it to you ; but in the mean- time I want this vessel to be loading, and you can tell me, in case you should go master, which freight you prefer." I told him the one for Beaufort. So I went on loading the vessel with a cargo of ice, and when done I put her into the stream and went to the owner's office and told him his vessel was loaded and in the stream. He said, "Have you got your mate?" I replied, "I have not, nor done anything about her crew, or stores or provisions." He handed i^e a letter saying, "Here's a letter from Captain Chan- dler." It stated "I shall not come on to go in Isaac Jackson and I don't think vou can do better than take Webster for a master." Then I got the mate, crew and provisions on board as quick as possible and sailed on my first voyage as master. I was pro- bably about twenty-four years of age. We arrived in Beaufort after a pleasant passage, discharged our ice, and sailed for Wilmington. We arrived there and loaded with boards for Charleston. The crew deserted in Beaufort, and we could not obtain men there; so we sailed with no one on board but myself, mate and cook. As the weather was pleasant we made the passage without accident. We arrived in Charleston, and when a large part of the cargo was discharged, a certain Captain Talbot of Freeport, a friend of my father's and mine came down on board. He, thinking of me as a mere boy, said: "Ben, what are you going to after you get your boards out?" "I am going back to Wilmington and get another load if I can.'' 32 "Well, go put on your coat and go up with me, and I'll introduce you to a man that has some salt to sell/' So I went up with him to the gentleman's office, and my friend said: "Mr. Cohen, this is Captain Webster, the master of the schooner Isaac Jackson. Captain Webster, this is J. C. Cohen, a ship-broker, the damnedest liar in Charleston, South Carolina. It takes a big liar to make a sharp ship-broker. Mr. Cohen, haven't you got some salt that you can give him for Wilming- ton?" "Yes, I can give him 700 sacks." As this conversation began to be interesting to me, I said "How much a sack?" He replied, "Twenty-five cents." I answered, "I'll take it." "But," he said, "you must be alongside a certain ship at a certain wharf at eight o'clock to-morrow morning." I replied that I would have the vessel there, and then Captain Talbot said to me, — "Are you sure you can get the boards out to-day ?" "If I don't get them out to-day, I'll get them out to-night; I'll have the vessel there." Then Captain Talbot turned to Mr. Cohen, — "Look here, that isn't the salt you have been offering to me is it ?"• "0 no, the lot I have for you is 900." So I returned to my vessel, and by working part of the night, I had her alongside the ship at the time appointed, and they be- gan putting the salt in. Along in the forenoon, I happened to look up, and Captain Talbot was leaning over the ship's rail looking down on to my vessel, smiling as though he was very much pleased. I said, "What pleases you so much this morning, sir?" "I am a-thinking about my carrying you up and introducing you to that Cohen ; and he has given you the very freight that he has been offering me." "Why no, because he said the lot for you was 900." "Yes, but he's such a liar you can't tell anything about him. Now I've got to buy ballast. "0 no" I replied, "this lot is enough for ballast for both of us. I'll stop right where I am, and you take the balance." "I knew you would and I have been to the shipper and he re- fused to make out two bills of lading." After I got the salt in, I sailed and arrived at Wilmington safely, discharged my salt and loaded with large hewn timber for New York. The first night out, I got into the September gale that prevails on the Southern coast at that time of the year, often called hurricanes. We had to carry a heavy press of canvas to keep her off the land. Having a heavy deck load on, it opened her water ways, and started her leaking in her top very badly. I was aware that she was filling fast and if I didn't get clear of 33 the deck-load she would fill and roll over, and that would end my life and short career as master. This timber was some of it fifteen inches square, and some of it forty and fifty feet long; there was no way to get clear of it without cutting away the rig- ging. I knew that would not do without cutting some of- the mast first ; so I cut the rigging and the foremast w^ent taking the head of the mainmast. Then the deck load all above the rail went. In a very short time, this vessel was surrounded with these large sticks of timber ; and I on the top of one of the sticks. I went off with the deck load. Of course while I was on this stick of timber my thoughts ran quickly. I had been taken off with the deck-load from my vessel half full of water, and had exchanged mv vessel for a stick of timber that could hold no Avater, but I had this advantage at least, I couldn't be water logged. I had neither water nor provisions, compass nor canvas to navigate or propell this new craft that I had joined so much against my will. I often now look back on this as one of the most narrow escapes of my life. This stick of timber that I was on, had worked round so that one end pointed nearly towards the vessel. A heavy sea took it and landed it crosswise over the vessel. They grabbed hold of me and saved me. The only accident I suffered was having one foot badly jammed. The next day the weather became moderate and the sea smoothed down. We pumped the water out, got the jibboom in and rigged it up for a jury foremast, used the awning for a sail, and as the mainsail was saved, we used that on the mainmast. With this sail we arrived in Charleston without tug-boat or assistance. There were no telegraphs in those days, so the only way for me to notify^ my owner in Boston was by letter which I did at once. At that time the mail was carried much of the way by stage there being few railroads, so it took about a month before I re- ceived instructions from my owner in Boston. These were to lay the vessel up in some safe place and come to Boston. By the time this was done, I was taken sick with the fever that pre- vails in Southern climates in September and October. I was stopping at a hotel at the time, and they sent for the doctor. At his first visit he said that I must have a nurse. A colored woman was obtained, and I expect that between the doctor and the nurse I had good attendance. After a number of days, how many I don't know, the doctor had ended his last visit, and I had become convalescent so as to walk out. I engaged my passage to Boston on board of a sailing vessel. There were no steamshi'p lines on the Atlantic in those days. I sent this negro nurse to the doctor asking him for his bill as I 34 was going home. He told her to say that he would come down to see me. That evening he came and inquired when and how I was going. He told me some things that he wanted me to take with me. Among the rest was some bottles of wine. He said. "I think you can go well enough, and you will improve and gain strength faster after you get out on the ocean." I said, "I sent the girl up after your bill, doctor." He replied, "I wanted to see you. You are a young man, and you've had hard luck; thrown out of business, and now sick. I have done all I could for you ; I have not any bill against you." I have always regretted that I did not have that man's address., so that when I got into different circumstances I could have written him. I arrived in Boston and called on my owner. He seemed glad to see me. Having my accounts all made out, I handed them to him. It showed that I had made him two remittances, one from Beaufort, and one from Charleston, and there was yet quite a balance due him. All the money I had was in $5 pieces in a lit- tle bag, and I emptied it on the table, counted out the part due him, handed it over, and there were but few $5 pieces left for me. He looked at it and saw that it balanced the account and seemed to well pleased. I said, "Mr. Jackson, the voyage is ended and I want to tell you how my year's work is ended. When Captain Chandler took this vessel a year ago on shares, I agreed to go with him and share equally with him, and I bought up $170 to pay one half of the outfits. When he left her, you are aware that I had her on shares. When I Joined her, I was well and strong, now I am out of busi- ness altogether, going home sick. Of course it will take me some time to recover my strength and be as I was a year ago. With this little pile of money left. Understand me, sir, a year ago well and strong, with $170 in the business, now sick, out of busi- ness and my $170 reduced to about $30.'' I well remember his looks as he regarded me across the table and when I was through he said, "Is it so ?" "Yes, it is as I have stated." He began pushing the $5 pieces across the table from him to nie. I don't remember how many, but I do think that we were botli pleased. Then he said, "Now you are going home. I have got the ship Frances Ann here. I am going to send her to Charleston. I am going to have the sails made here, the rig- ging and everything put on board to rig up the schooner, and I want you to go out in the ship and rig her up, and try her again. I feel as though I was acquainted with you, for when you came up 35 to join this vessel as mate. Captain Soule, master of the ship Frances Ann, told me of you, and I had as lief then that you would have had the schooner as Captain Chandler." Captain Soule knew me well, as I had been mate of a vessel that he owned a third of, and of which his brother was master between one and two years. When I left this gentleman's office, I felt altogether a differ- ent man from what I did when I entered it, all owing to the way he received me, the way he treated me, and the way we separated. I went home to my father's in Freeport, had been there about twenty days, received a letter from Mr. Jackson that he had sold the schooner. So ends my acquaintance with this kind-hearted gentleman. About this time, Mr. Samuel Bacon of North Yarmouth, came for me to take command of the schooner Julian that he owned. This vessel was built up to Walnut Hill, eighty-three tons, and and hauled from there to Yarmouth Falls about four miles. She was loaded with potatoes in barrels. Arrived in New Orleans. I sold the potatoes, and the barrels to put molasses in. Then I loaded with pork, lard, and corn in sacks for Newburyport : dis- charged, collected my freight, and brought the vessel to Yar- mouth. Then the owner wanted me to go coasting in her through the summer. I declined to do this, as I was not ac- quainted with the business. He replied, "I am going to load hei- with wood, bark, and fish barrels for Provincetown, Capt Cod and I am going myself, and you will have nothing to do with sel- ling the cargo ; I shall attend to that." I replied that under those circumstances I would go. We \\^nt to Provincetown, sold a part of the cargo, went to Boston and sold more, and to Gloucester, Cape Ann, and sold the balance, and returned to Yarmouth. I felt as though I was quite a coasting Captain. So I went on making trips to different parts, not waiting for fair winds nor for fog to clear. I have come into Portland without seeing a thing until 1 was in the har- bor. This was considered quite an event in those days. I re- turned from one of my trips, and the owner, Mr. Bacon, came on board as soon as I got to the wharf. He said, "Mr. Baker is go- ing to load the vessel with bricks and hay for Boston.'* I replied "Then he must consign it to some one for sale, for I know no- body there, and am not a fit person to sell it." He went away, and soon returned, saying, "Mr. Baker will do as you wish.'' So we loaded with bricks in the hold and a high deckload of hay, and I arrived in Boston ; and ran into the dock as there was not water enough to get to the wharf. There was 36 a mud machine there digging out the docks, that went by horse power. My vessel grounded near the mud-digger, it being low water. The man in charge of the work of the mud-digger asked me if the hay was for sale and how many bales I had. He came and looked it over, asked the price, and agreed to take it at the price that I told him. So we rolled it off on board the digger while the tide was flowing so we could get to the wharf. This was the time at which the brick stores on Lewis' wharf were being built. I enquired of some of the laborers for the foreman, and asked if they wanted to buy bricks. "Yes,'' was the answer, "but I am not the purchaser." He gave me the purchaser's name, street, and number. I was in his office in a short time, and found him in. He came down with me and looked at the bricks, and we made a trade then at a much higher price than Mr. Baker expected I'd get, and before 12 o'clock at noon we were discharg- ing the bricks. As soon as they were out I received my money for bricks and hay, and said to the man that bought the bricks, — "Will you take another cargo at the same price, if I come right back ?" He agreed to do it. I made all speed for Yarmouth. I knew that Mr. Baker had bought a small schooner. When I was returning, I passed Cape Elizabeth with a strong west wind, I fell in with that schooner going out. As soon as I got to the wharf in Yarmouth I went to see Mr. Baker, handed him my accounts of the sale of the hay and the bricks, and the money. He was well pleased. I said, "Do you want to sell another load of bricks at the same rate ?" "Yes." "Well, I have sold them if you load her up quick." He was so well pleased with this sale that he said, "How much do they generally have for selling car- goes as you have done this?" I replied, "two and one half per cent on the gross sales." He counted me out the money at once. This paid me well for the trip as I was only having $25 per month. Then he said, "Now I shall pay you two and one half per cent on this next cargo ; and I have loaded my little schooner with so many thous- and of bricks, and she went away so many days ago." I replied, "Yes, I saw her off Cape Elizabeth to-day. He said, "If you get to Boston before she does and sell her cargo, I will give you two and one half per cent on her cargo also." The day I saw the schooner off' Cape Elizabeth when she- got out into the strong southwest winds and heavy sea, it was too rough for her and she returned to Portland for harbor. I loaded up in all haste, and when I was a little past Cape Eliza- beth with a strong head wind, I fell in with this same little schooner going back to Portland the second time for harbor. 37 The thought came to me then, "I'll have a commission on her cargo/' There was no rest for the Julian in the head winds or fair till she arrived at Lewis' wharf in Boston. I lost no time until I had seen the purchaser of the bricks. He seemed much pleased that I had returned a number of days before he expected me. I said to him, "The owner of these bricks has another cargo on board a small schooner. Will you take them at the same price ?" He agreed to do it. About the time I was discharged and ready to leave, this little schooner arrived. I took the Captain up and introduced him to the purchaser of his cargo. I don't suppose he ever knew that I had a commission of two and one half per cent on the gross sales of his cargo. I continued through the season at different places, sometimes with a full crew. At one time the vessel was all loaded, the water high and a fair wind. I had only a boy for a cook, and a young man that was going passenger with me. I couldn't af- ford to lose the fair wind, so I got some men to help hoist the sails, and one man to go out the river with me, putting him ashore at the Foreside, then I left for Boston with these two boys. I ar- rived safely and returned home in the same way. There were no steamboats or railroads then, so I often had quite a number of passengers. At one time I had three women passengers, two of them school-teachers. The little after cabin we had, had two berths in it, so one of these women had to lie on a seat or tran- som. We were up past Wood Island, with a strong head wind and a bad sea, and it was necessary to back ship. I thinking more of l:he vessel than of the women passengers, when the vessel came roiind on the other tack and listed round, this woman on the transom rolled on to the floor, and I should judge they were terribly frightened by the screeching. I went down as quickly as possible, found them very much frightened, for they did not know what to make of it. In this tacking ship, with a strong wind, and the vessel listing down, when she comes round she lists down the other way. These women were so frightened and very sea-sick, with a strong head wind and a bad sea, I kept away for Portland, and landed the women there ; went with them to the stage tavern, and they took the mail stage for Boston. Nothing more worthy of note for this trip. On another trip I discharged in Gloucester, Cape Ann. Two men left there, leaving me alone with the boy cook, and a good fair wind to leave. I got some men to help hoist the sails, and I left with no one but myself and boy. That night there was a 38 strong southwest wind, right aft, and I winged her out, the main- sail one side, and the foresail on the other. Along late in the night, I called the boy to relieve me from the helm a few minutes, thinking that he could do it, and I cautioned him to be very care- ful. Notwithstanding all his knowledge of steering and my ad- vice he jibed over the mainsail. This came over all at once with such force, that it was almost enough to take the vessel's stern off. It did unship the main boom, and the end that has the Jaws on it came down on the deck, slid forward of the mast some eight or ten feet. This was a peculiar situation for one man and a boy to be in. Now we had both sails on one side, put the helm hard down, and she came up with the wind, sails shaking. We hauled the foresheet aft, lowered the mainsail down and com- menced getting the main boom back in its place — slow work for us two — but we got a deck-tackle , hauled it aft, far enough to ship again, hooked the halyards on to it we had to hoist the mainsail with, hoisted it up and it was shipped all right. Then as the vessel was lying too near head to the wind we hoisted the main- sail again, which was hard and slow work for us. We put the helm up, eased off the sheets, and headed her for Yarmouth. We arrived there after a good passage of sixteen hours. I continued in this vessel till the latter part of October ; she be- ing small and -old, I did not wish to spend another winter in her, so I joined the new brig Persia, with Captain Joseph Chandler, I going as mate at $30 per month. I felt first rate; for I was having $5 more than the common rate of wages. I had been with this man one year in a schooner as his mate about a year be- fore. He was a very nice honest man, and I think, a Christian man. But he was a man who liked to have a great deal of work done. He chartered his vessel to load with cotton in Mobile. He said to me, "Mr. Webster, can you stow this vessel with cotton ?'' I replied to him "Yes," as I had had experience with loading cotton before I was 21 years old. So we went on stowing the cotton till we had some three or four hoists all over her, then there were two hoists left on the edge which we used to roll in, whicli was called rolling in two bales at once with the screws. It was slow work, we didn't get along as fast as the Captain wanted to, so he hired another gang from the shore, and they commenced in the other end of the vessel. That gang cost him $21 per day. The gang I had cost him $3 per day, and we put away more bales of cotton than they did. The Captain couldn't stand this, and he discharged the gang the second day. He used to be down in the hold a great deal, which used to make me feel very unpleas- ant. He was thinking that we not putting away as many bales 39 in a day as he wanted, but I knew that we were. He was not a judge for he had never been in that trade, and had probably never seen a bale of cotton stowed before. One day he was down there walking round, and I had two bales that bothered me a great deal, had two pairs of screws to them ; the screws slipped and they came down. He walked along to me, and said, "Mr. Webster, it is no use for you to spend the time that way." I was angry at the screws slipping and the two bales coming down, and the Captain coming along and speak- ing the way he did, made me more so. My reply was ; "I picked out those two bales to go there, and I am going to put them there.'' He left without another word. The two bales were put in place, and I have no doubt but that the work went along much better and more satisfactorily to me when the Captain was not there. I think he came down very little, if any, after that. After we had her all filled, and the hatches on, we cleared away a big pile of lumber that was on deck amidships, in preparing to take on a deckload of cotton. When this lumber and dunnage was all moved, we could see the deck was rounded up a good deal. The Captain said to me "Mr. Webster, you have spoiled my vessel." I replied, "You asked me if I could stow this vessel with cotton, and if you saw that I was screwing too hard, why didn't you tell me?" I suppose that he felt bad, and I mad. That ended it, there was nothing more said about it. We arrived in Boston, discharged the cotton, and as I felt that I hadn't given him satisfaction, I said, "Xow the vessel is discharged, and I think you better discharge me." He says, "What are you go- ing to do?'' "I don't know. I shall be in hopes to get some- where where I can give satisfaction." He turned and went ashore. After he was gone, his wife, a very nice lady who had been on the voyage with us, sent for me. She said, "I am going home. I don't want you to leave this ves- sel. I shall feel differently to know that you are here, than I should if he had a stranger." "But I don't think that your hus- band wants me." "Yes, he does." "Well then he'll ask me." When he returned we had our dinner, he said, "I would like to have you remain in the vessel." There was considerable more conversation about it, but I concluded to stay. We loaded with ice for Jamaica, then to Trinidad, Cuba, then box sugar for Bre- men, discharged our sugar, and came to Sydney, Cape Breton. Then we took a cargo of coal for Boston. The vessel was going up North River to discharge, and the Captain was going home. When he got all ready to go, after giving me all the instructions he considered necessary in his absence, he said to me : — "If vou 40 can have a new vessel built to come off next f all^ a year from now, how much of her will you take, and how large do you want her to be?'' I replied: "I'll put $1000 into the vessel, and let it go as far as it will, for her to be from 150 to 200 tons." When he returned the cargo was discharged and the vessel all cleaned up. On her passage from Sydney to Xew York the ves- sel was deep loaded with coal, in the month of November, there was no chance to do much of any Avork on the vessel, and I gave the men watch and watch. But I soon saw that this didn't please the Captain, although he didn't say anything to me against it. But I knew that he was so much displeased that I said to Mr. Corbit, the second mate, "If I go another voyage in this vessel, there'll be no more watch and watch unless the Captain tells me." We went round from N'ew York to Philadelphia to load for Eio. It got to be along in December before we left, so cold that we nailed boards on the bow of the vessel to keep the ice from cut- ting the plank. The Captain's wife had come on to make the voyage with us. The second day out, when it was blowing heavy, a side wind, under double reefed topsails, and the spray falling over the vessel, most all parts of her, at 1 o'clock P. M., I said to Mr. Corbit, "Turn the men to." "What am I to set them about?" "Picking oakum." As the wind was blowing, the vessel rolling, and the spray flying there was no chance to do anything else. One man took his bunch of rope-yarn and went on to the poop-deck right in front of the cabin. The captain looking out of the cabin win- dows and seeing him, called for me : — "Mr. Webster, is there nowheres else for this man, except right here before the cabin windows?" "Yes, -sir, but they'll be drenched in salt water." I said to the man, "Pick up your rope-yarns and go off for- ward." It was done without a word of complaint from him. The Captain returned to the cabin. Captain Chandler being a pious man, he had the men come into the cabin every night to have prayers. This being the latter part of December, dark early, one man was relieved from the wheel to go and get his supper; the forecastle in those days was down in the fore-peak of the vessel under the deck. As we went into the cabin that night the Captain had his Bible, and we all got seated: the Captain looked around and he said, "How is this, Mr. Webster, that we can't have every man except the man at the wheel?" "The man at the wheel has just been relieved, and has gone for his supper. But you can have him." He made no reply. I left and went to the forecastle door and said, "Bill, come up 41 here.'* The man came very quickly little thinking what I wanted. "Come aft here," said I. He followed me to the after cabin doors; as this vessel had a trunkcabin we had to go down some four steps to get into the passage way or entry. As I stepped on the upper step I said to the man, "Come down here." By this time I suppose he began to mistrust what was wanted. I stepped back and took him by the collar. I think no word was said; — he came down the steps and into the cabin. I let go of him, and said,"sit down in that chair.'' He did so. I turned to the Captain, "Captain Chandler, there's your man." He shut the Bible that he had in his hand, went to his room and closed the door. Probably the voyage lasted five months longer, but the men never went to the cabin for prayers. And if the Captain had his prayers, as I have no doubt he had, they were only to God and himself. There was nothing remarkable the remainder of this voyage. We returned to Philadelphia with a cargo of coffee. While dis- charging I was on the wharf taking account of the bags of coffee, and getting receipts signed for each car-load, the Captain came down from up town, another gentleman with him, and handed me a letter. They then went on board the vessel. As soon as I had a minute to spare, I opened the letter, and saw it was from my mother, and brought me news of the death of three of my sisters. One was a married woman less than thirty; another a girl about seventeen; the other I think about eleven, all loving sisters. I had no time then to read the letter through, but read enough to get the sad news that it contained. As soon as I could I went into the cabin, handed the letter to the Captain's wife, then retu'rned to my business of delivering coffee. Soon this gentleman who was in the cabin with the Captain came on shore, and came to me and said, "You have hard news." When we stopped work to get dinner, I took my seat at the ta- ble as usual; the Captain asked a blessing, helped his wife and then me. I got up and left without tasting any dinner. When it was time to go to work, I was there to deliver the coffee, and the Captain never offered to assist me or to put a man there to assist me, and I believe that he never mentioned the death of my sisters to me. A day or two after this a sheriff came down and served a writ on me for correcting one of the sailors. I told him he would have to wait until the Captain came ; for I couldn't leave then. The Captain soon came, procured some one to sign my bond, and the sheriff left. I told the Captain that I wanted to see a good lawyer, so he took me up to the store where he traded, and they recommended a lawyer that tended to their business, stating 42 that he was probably as good as amy one in Philadelphia. "But," they said, "it will cost you $10 to consult with him, but you can rely on what he says." So the Captain went up with me, and I told him my story as it was. After he heard me all through he said, "Now you better compromise this case if you can for $50, $75, or $100. I can't do anything for 3^ou. You can go to other lawyers and they'll tell you that it is a plain case and they can gain it, and they'll want a retaining fee of $20 or $30. But I tell you they'll lose it. I can take your case, I shall want a retaining fee of $30, and I will carry it as far as you want to. Soon I shall want some more money, but at the end I shall lose it." I replied that there was no use for me to pay away money that way. He said, "Xo, go and make the best trade you can by com- promising it." "Well, sir, what is your bill?" He looked at me and said, "Mr. Mate, I see by your hands that you have to work for a living ; I can't do anything for you and I won't charge you anything." Then to Captain Chandler, "Do you think that your mate was doing his duty when he corrected this man ? He answered "He has sailed with me nearly two years and I have never known him to abuse a man." "Then, sir, it is for you to carry on this case, and not let him lose all his wages." I don't think that the Captain replied to that. I think I com- promised the case for about $75, taking more than two months of niy services. The Captain never helped me a dollar in it, al- though the lawyer told him that he was the man that should support me in my duty. Our next voyage wa^ for San Domingo. I remember one cir- cumstance after we got out into warm weather. We were laying becalmed. A large shark was about. We soon got the harpoon into him and hauled him up, and I think got a bowline round his tail. We were almost ready to haul him over the side, while the Captain was standing near the side. He was requested to stand aside, but he replied, "Haul him in, haul him in quick !'' As the shark came over the side he grabbed the Captain just by the hips, but he jerked away from him, and ran aft hollering "0 I'm spoiled, I'm spoiled !" I immediately followed him into the cabin, removed his clothes, and found one slight wound, and one more serious. I took his clothes off, and put him into bed. The slight wound I drew up nicely with sticking-plaster, but the other he insisted must be sewed up. I tried ''to persuade him, all to no purpose. It must be sewed up. I got the surgeon's needle from the medicine-chest, probably having never been used before, took a number of stitches in the wound and drew it together nicely. The Captain was round on deck in a few days, but I have no 43 doubt that he had two bad scares that he carried to the grave. After the wounds were dressed he said, "I must have the jaws of that shark to carry home to show my friends." They were cut out, scraped and dried, and I suppose that he carried them home. We continued and made this voyage with much hard work, and very little that was pleasant. Arrived at Boston, discharged vessel, and I left this vessel, and I left the Captain after almost two years faithful service to him. I went home to take charge of my new vessel that was nearly ready to launch. My only l)rother was at home, a lad of about twenty-two and was going mate with me in the new vessel. He was taken sick with the ty- phoid fever which proved fatal with him. His remains lie in the Webster Cemetery in the lot with his father and mother and sis- ter. His death was a great loss to my parents, my sisters and myself. His memory is fresh in my mind although it is over fifty-seven years since his death. I have many things to remind me of him. Perhaps the most constant reminder is a, little lad of eleven years old that calls me grandfather. He bears his name in full, — William Webster Hight. CHAPTER VIII. MY FIRST OWNING IN A VESSEL. My new vessel was finished and I started for sea early in Octob- er, 1844, I owning three-eights of her and a small part of that paid for. I left Portland in her for Lnbec, being over $1900 in debt, which seemed a very big debt for me in those days. On my arrival in Lubec I chartered her for Baltimore before it came to anchor, then took a freight for Xew York. Then I chartered for Xew Haven to take a cargo of cooperage, and deck load of horses for St. Kitts, one of the Windward Islands of the Carrib- bean sea. So I continued in this trade, many times going to the most sickly ports in the summer, like Port-au-Prince, St. Jago, and Havana. I never lost a man by sickness in any of these West India Islands, nor had a man oif duty but a very short time. I remember once in Port-au-Prince, I didn't have a man sick at all ; an English vessel that lay near me lost nearly all of her crew by fever. Some might ask, how this could be. I took special pains to keep the men out of the sun in the middle of the day and out of the rain, so they should not get wet, as it would rain almost every afternoon. I well remember this voy- age. I returned to Boston and didn't have a man sick off duty one hour. Inside of two years from the time I left Portland I had paid up the debt of over $1900, bought me a chronometer for $253, sent the girl who became my wife afterwards $300, writing her that I was out of debt and I had this $300 left. I had no use for it and she could use a part of it if she liked. She on receiv- ing it, put it out to interest at six per cent. One of my voyages in this vessel was down to Tabasco in the Bay of Mexico, in the summer time. I arrived at the mouth of the river, Tabasco be- ing some forty miles up, and was told that it was very sickly, that the soldiers were dying so that they were digging trenches to put them in without coffins or anything of the kind. There were only two men at the mouth of the river where I stopped, one was the U. S. Consul, he said, "You won't think of going up to Tabasco, knowing how sickly it is ?" I replied, "My cargo is for Tabasco, and I signed bills of lading to deliver it there, dangers of the seas excepted." 45 That afternoon I started with a strong fair wind, sailing up till dark, when the wind died away, and I tied up to a tree, to rest till morning. But there was not much rest for mosquitoes, for they were in swarms like bees and almost as large as a small bee. I, hearing of these pests before I left New York, bought cotton cloth, and made mosquito bars for all hands, which served to keep them out very well, and much of the air. But these ter- rible creatures, their bills were so long and sharp — that if we got a foot or hand touching the inside of the mosquito bar, we were sure to feel their bites although there was the thickness of the cotton cloth between them and us. In this river the current was running down all the time and the river was narrow, and the trees were very high so that we could feel but little wind unless it was from aloft that came over the tops of the trees. Sometimes we could set some lofty sails that would help us a little, but the way we had to get up this river was mostly by warping, that is to load a boat well up with small ropes, put way up the river, make the rope end fast to a tree, come down with the current to the vessel. Taking the other end aboard the ves- sel, sometimes we could pull her along by hand, at other times we would have to take the rope to a wind which is similar to a small windlass and turned by cranks like grindstone cranks. In this way we worked quite a number of days before we reached Tabasco. When we tied up for one night, it was near an English brig that had left the mouth of the river for Tabasco eight days before I arrived. I went on board of this vessel and found the Captain and men terribly bitten by mosquitoes. I could do nothing for him, only urge him to try and warp his vessel up. I discharged my cargo at Tabasco, and going down the river, fell in with this brig near where she was when I boarded her on my way up. This was in the evening, as we had to tie up at night. One couldn't think of navigating this river with its strong current in the dark. I again boarded this vessel, and found the Captain with legs and arms terribly swollen by mosquito bites. Some of his men were as badlv off as he. Thev were not in situation to do much of anything. I returned to the mouth of the river, and loaded there with log-wood for New York. I had been down but a short time, when my men began to be taken sick with the sickness that they contracted in Tabasco or on the river. They were all down sick but the second mate and cook. The chief mate died, and there were only the second mate and cook to follow him to his grave. Probably I was as sick as the others. What a sad situ- ation this was, — five sick, and two well. Surely we couldn^t get 46 much attendance; but we recovered so as to load our vessel and leave for New York, without a mate and the second mate not a navigator. We stopped on the bar on the way out, as there was not water enough to float the vessel over without stopping. It was necessary to carry out a small anchor with .a rope at- tached to it to assist in getting the vessel over the bar. My men were in such a weak state that it didn't appear that there were three of them well enough to carry that anchor out, and I went in the boat myself. Still I do think that I was no more fit for it than the others, but the anxiety of mind to get my vessel out probably prevented my thinking so much of my bodily weakness as they did. That night we came over the bar all right. We were in a poor situation to come on to the coast in the win- ter; short handed, and with those that we had mostly better sub- jects for the hospital than for doing duty on ship-board. One poor fellow whose feet and legs had been terribly swollen, we used to put at the wheel to steer, when we were taking in the sail. I not only had to do the Captain's work but the mate's also, and . assist in all common work like a sailor. I had to go aloft when reefing and get immersed in salt water like the rest. All this time, every other day, I had spells of shaking with the ague while terrible fever affected my head at times almost to insanity. This sickness of fever and ague, many do not understand. The chills come on about at a certain hour, unless one is getting bet- ter ; then they come on later. If one is growing sicker, the chills and fever come on earlier. The morning that we came out of the Gulf Stream, north of Cape Hatteras, the wind had been blowing heavily through the night and the vessel had much more canvas on her than I wished she had. At daylight, I put the poor fellow with the swelled feet at the wheel, and we began getting canvas off the vessel. In our feeble state it took a good while. I went aloft with the others to reef the topsail, and there was much other work. We were all .completely soaked through with salt water, by the sprays and seas coming so much aboard the vessel. About the time that I could see that we were nearly through our morning's work, I told the cook to get a fire in the galley, and get some boiling hot water as quickly as possible for I knew that it was about time for my ague fit to come on, although probably I didn't know within an hour or so what time it was. When the water boiled, the cook told me, and I told him to take it into the cabin, mix some molasses and ginger with it, and I went in with him, stripped off my thoroughly wet garments, put on dry flannels, and dressed all dry throughout, then began sip- 47 ping the hot ginger and water, thinking that it was time for my ague fit to come on. I looked at my v/atch. It was about an hour and a half past time. I didn't have any more chills and fever, but was sick and weak for a long time. When we ar- rived in Xew York, some of the men went to the hospital, while I chartered my vessel the first day in, to go back to Tabasco, not up the same river, but up a shorter one, only about fifteen miles from the mouth. I got my vessel to the wharf and lay down to rest as I did I think about every day I was in Xew York. Captain Pratt the brother of the girl that became my wife later, came on board to see me. He said, "Ben, have you char- tered your vessel to go up the Gonaquil river?" I told him I had. "I don't know what you are thinking of. It will be Gon- a-quil with you this time." I went on discharging my vessel and took in some cargo for Tabasco. I was not sufficiently recovered from my sickness to sit up all day, so I sent home for my sister's husband, knowing him to be a capable, steady, and trusty man in every way. He came on, and we sailed for Tabasco. Before we arrived, my health had improved, and I was quite rugged. When I arrived off Tabasco, I saw a wreck on shore, with masts out of her, stripped of sails and rigging. I was told that she was the English brig I boarded the voyage before in the river, whose Captain and crew were so bitten with the mosquitoes. Every one of the crew died, and a new Captain, officers and crew were obtained, but as she went to sea, she went ashore on the bar, and thus ended the whole crew and vessel. I proceeded uj^ the Gonaquil river, loaded a full cargo of log- wood. On my coming out, grounded on the bar for want of water. Night came on, and the pilot not being willing to stay on board in the night, left me and went ashore. Xext morning at daylight, I was out of sight of land, far to sea, short of my deck-load. Arrived safely in Xew York. This was the year 1844. I continued voyaging in the West India l)usiness. In Septem- ber, 1844, I left the island of Jamaica for Campeche, vessel in ballast. ' The third day out, off the Isle of Percia, I encountered a heavy hurricane. The vessel lay low on her side, lost all the head sails in trying to get her before the wind ; all to no purpose. She lay so low on her side that her rudder would not work. There was but one thing left; to save the vessel and our own lives, by cutting away the mainmast. I had had oyer twenty-four hours' notice of this hurricane, to make everything ready, the vessel laying to under a very small piece of canvas aft. She 48 laid so ver}^ broad in the trough of the sea that I got a spare 3'ard, bent a hawser on the middle, caged anchor on to that, a rope from each end of the spar up on to the hawser, so as to be sure to keep the spar from turning end to us. I paid it out from the weather bar about fifty to sixty fathoms thinking that this would have a tendency to fetch the vessel's head more up to the wind and sea. Still this did not have the effect that I hoped. Some few hours after this the vessel was laying so very low that she was altogether unsafe. It was now about 6 P. M. All this day I had had the broad-ax in the companion-way ready to grasp any instant. The vessel had got listed over so much that we could get along on her side about as well as we could on her deck. I grabbed my broad-ax, and made my way forward, hardly knowing whether I was on the inside or the outside of the rail. One clip with the ax chopped off the hawser; for I knew that this vessel must be got before the wind to right her up to save her and our lives, I hoisted up the foretopmast-staysail, that be- ing a sail on the bowsprit, thinking that that served to get her be- fore the wind; but before we got the sail up it was all gone, al- though a good sail. We then commenced to hoist the jib. As soon as the wind got into that, away went that. We then went aloft, put a lashing around the fore yard, just outside the slings to hold the canvas from blowing away, then took off all the gaskets from the weather side of the foresail, thinking the* wind would get into that part of the sail and force her ahead so the rudder would act, and she would pay off before the wind. The wind took this sail away the same as it had the other two, and there seemed to be no more that we could do. We lost all the head- sails, the rudder would not act, so the only thing left was to cut away the mainmast. This I disliked very much to do, and held on for an hour or more. It grew dark; I knew, as the vessel lay so low, and the water was running in, that when there was enough together with the weight of the ballast she would go down. I got up on the main boom and gaff, and hacked away at the mainmast with the broad-ax. When I struck the second clip I couldn't see where the first was. By feeling I got quite a place cut, then got down and chopped off the lanyards of the main rigging on the weather side. The mast went, but hung right under the lee quarter, for the lee rigging had not been cut; in that situation it acted the same as though it had been a wheel backing water, and the ves- sel was before the wind in a very few minutes. We began to feel as though our lives were lengthened out for a while longer. The hurricane broke before 12 o'clock, midnight. 49 In the morning it was quite moderate, pleasant and sea gone down. Still the vessel was having a very great list on her. We took off one hatch and went into the hold. We found her ballast all shifted about on one side, although it was well secured with shifting planks, platformed over and stanchioned down. One can well judge how near this vessel came to going over on her beam ends ; for the shifting boards and ballast had taken every midship stanchion away between the fore and mainmast, and our stanchions and shifting plank were brought up in the bilge of the vessel. This was about a day's work to get the ballast back. In the meantime we were making all the progress we could to- wards Cape Antonia, the vessel being under charter to load in Campeche for New York. I knew that a spar for a mainmast could not be procured there; so shaped my course for Xew Or- leans. We arrived there without any more accidents. Then we rigged up with a new mainmast and did what other repairs were necessary. As we had had in sand ballast I was afraid that it had got down under the ceiling to the pump so that it might choke the pump. So we had the ballast all cleared away and the pump raised for a thorough examination. I was down in the hold, my shirt sleeves shoved clear up to my armpits, feeling down to see whether there was any sand, so as to be sure it was all clear before putting the pump back. It was very warm and I all of a sweat. Some one called from the deck, — "Captain, here's a gentleman wants to see you." I went on deck at once, and the gentleman looked to me, as I thought, very much surprised. He said, "Are you Captain of this vessel." I replied "I am." I think he looked more surprised. He said, — "Could you take a freight of flour for Campeche ?" "I would if the rate of freight would suit me." He handed me his card, saying, "Will you come over to my office to-morrow morning at nine o'clock ?" I answered that I would. At nine o'clock the next morning I was at his office. He didn't seem to know me. I said, "I think you are the gentleman who was aboard my vessel, the Levant, yesterday afternoon?" "Yes, are you the Captain of that vessel ?" I replied I was. He said, looking me over, "You do look more like a Captain than you did yesterday:" but we very soon closed the trade, — a full cargo of flour for Campeche at one dollar a barrel. 50 We arrived in Campeche and loaded for New York. Arrived there, and ended a very successful voyage, much more so than though I hadn't lost my mast and suffered the hurricane. Get- ting this full cargo of flour helped me out. We then chartered for Xew Orleans. As I hadn't been home for perhaps a year I went to Yarmouth, and stopped thirty-six hours, took the girl that became my wife and came to New York. I was married there on the 19th day of January, 1845, by the Eev. Henry Chase, minister of the Gospel ; in a few days sailed for New Or- leans. We had a very pleasant passage with the exception of my wife being very seasick. We discharged the cargo, and went one hundred miles above New Orleans and loaded with molasses, and then returned to New York. The next voyage was to the Bay of Mexico, — very successful and pleasant with the exception of my wife's sickness. She had so much fever that her hair all came out. The next voyage was to the Island of St. Thomas, and to Bonaire. Next voyage to St. Jago, and to Nansanilla, and back to. New York. I'll state here that one voyage my wife was with me from New York to Havana and back, a voyage made in twenty-eight days ; the next voyage was thirty-seven days out and back; next voyage forty-two days. So I continued in the West India trade until Januar}^, 1847. Then I loaded with full cargo of grain in bulk. This small vessel was loaded down with decks not much above the water, and was bound to Sligo on the north- west part of Ireland. We had a boisterous passage of nineteen days. One very heavy gale we had stove the galley so there was no cooking for a number of days, only what we did over a little cylinder stove in the cabin. When we got on the coast of Ireland we made land, with wind blowing a perfect gale. We did not dare to run near to it for fear we could not get a pilot. I knew that if I got near the land and didn't get a pilot that it was blowing so heavy we could not keep the vessel off from the land. So we were in this disagreeable situation hanging off from the land, for five days. Then it died down to a moderate gale. . I ran the vessel in, and made the entrance of Sligo. Still no pilot in sight. But I was so near in that I was obliged to keep on. As I entered I had to haul round a point of land, and there was the pilot-boat. The pilot came on board, ran up a short distance and came to anchor, it being dark. It blew so heavily that we let go both anchors, and paid out all the chain. Next morning it had moderated somewhat. I left and went up to Sligo by land. It soon after commenced to blow so heavily, by the first part of the afternoon the pilot didn't think it safe for the vessel to remain there and it blew so heavily we couldn't get the anchors. So 51 slipped them both and vessel around up to Sligo before dark without cables or anchor. I hired some men with a launch, and they got the anchors up and brought them to the vessel. This was the time of the Irish famine. Xo one can appreciate the sufferings without having seen it. The poor people would pick up kernels of corn on the wharf and eat them. If I left the vessel I was followed by a small army of beggars. It was im- possible to supply all their wants, although we did the best we could. One dav in my absence the mate of the vessel came into the cabin and told my wife that there was a man on the wharf almost frozen to death. She went on deck and, I think, on to the wharf, and had the mate get him up, — he was lying down, — with the assistance of others of the crew, and taKC him on board the vessel and into the galley. There by means of much rubbing and hot coffee he revived so as to eat. He was kept on board the vessel until he seemed to be well recovered, and fed as much as was proper for the situation he was in. His pockets were filled with some kind of food and he was sent away. It wouldn't (lo to give him a bundle of food for others would follow and get it away from him. We couldn't allow those poor people to come on board the vessel ; for if we did the deck would be full of them all the time but thev would stand on the wharf alono^side the; vessel and make their grievances known and l)eg for food. AVe discharged our cargo and took in ballast and sailed for St. Thomas, glad to get out of sight of so much suffering, but we didn't get it out of mind. I am sure I never shall live long enough to forget the terrible suffering I saw in Sligo. We had a hard time to get clear of the land with heavy gales for about ten or twelve days. The vessel tossed on the sea almost as if she were an egg-shell. Most of the time she was under a heavy press of canvas. I well remember how she used to shake and tremble. After this the wind canted more to the northwest so that we made a good slant south, and got down into the noi'th- east trade winds. The rest of the passage was pleasant to St. Thomas. We chartered there to go to Mayaguez, Porto Rico, to load sugar for Xew York, at one dollar per hundred. I had twenty- seven pence a bushel freight from Xew York to Sligo,— about fifty-two cents. This voyage ended very profitably. I niade one more West India voyage and then put another man into my ves- sel and sent her out to Tuba, while I went home to Yarmouth with mv wife to make a visit. CHAPTER IX. COMMAND OF BARK AGENORA. While at home at this time I bought half of a double-decked bark that was being built, with the understanding that I should take charge of everything, I to plan her decks and have every- thing as I wanted it. This vessel was finished and taken to Port- land, where it was chartered to load for Havana. While she was loading I returned to Yarmouth, settled up with the man of whom I had purchased it, and bought another sixteenth. This gave me nine sixteenths and Mr. J. Baker seven sixteenths. I sailed and arrived in Havana, discharged and loaded for Hamburg. I had a good freight of three pounds per ton. In going up the English Channel bound to Hamburg I was a num- ber of days in the Channel with head winds. Many boats came off from the shore, and told me that the port of Hamburg was blockaded. I well remember one morning, — I was probably not so pleasant as I might have been, — we had a strong breeze of wind and the vessel listed down. One boat came alongside and they could climb right off the boat over the rail, she was down so much. One of them came right up to me and asked where I was bound. I replied "To Hamburg.'' He said, "Hamburg's blockaded; you can't go there. I can take you into the Isle of Wight." I replied, "Didn't I tell you that I was bound to Hamburg ?" "Do you persist in going there after I tell you it is blockaded ? I'll go on shore and report you." I started for him and told him he couldn't be too quick. He went into his boat much more quickly than he came out. I continued until I got up to Dover and came to anchor; a boat came off to me. I asked him if he knew of a good N^orth sea pilot. He told me he did, and he was at home. "How long will it take you to get him and bring him off here ?" "I think less than an hour," was his reply. The pilot came on board. I questioned him thoroughly. By his appearance and his answer I made up my mind he was the man I wanted. Then I said, "How much will you take this ves- sel to Hamburg for?" He replied, "Are you aware that it is blockaded ?" V.', "> o ■> ) O J • 4 5 3 3 3 * » -> 3 ' •a -9 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 O 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 33 3 3 3 3 3 3 • '333 3 3 3 3 53 "I am, but I am going to try to get there." I said also, "Now if we get up there, and fall in with the blockade, and are ordered off and have to come down to Flushing Roads, I shall pay you your pilotage the same as though we went m. He told me the number of pounds he would go for. Then I asked if he could go into the mouth of the Elbe, in by the light- ship in the night. He said that he could. Then I said, "I'll give you your price. If we succeed in keep- ing clear of the blockade and get in, I'll make you a present of live pounds." He went on shore and soon returned with his things. We got under way immediately and proceeded, this being the first and only time that ever I took a North Sea pilot. Perhaps the next afternoon we were running up with a strong fair wind, all light sails and steersails set. The pilot said, "We don't know how far down those men-of-war may be. I think it would be advisable to take in all light sails and go slow till dark." We discovered nothing all the afternoon although keeping a bright look-out from aloft. As soon as dark, we put all sail on the vessel again, there was strong wind, and continued our course for the mouth of the Elbe. Xo lights were allowed to be lighted on board, only one shaded one, so that the man at the wheel could see the compass. Before twelve o'clock at night we made the man-of-war, about six points on our starboard bow. She was all lighted up like a steamboat. As soon as seen we changed our course, and went more to the port to get further away. When we had sailed along so she was after the beam we changed our course again as it was before. I hardly think there was a word spoken aloud, everything was as silent as could be, and when the man-of-war was astern and we were sure it hadn't changed its course, I doubt not every one felt relieved, myself in particular. We soon made the light on the island of Heligoland and then the light boat in the mouth of the river. We continued on and ran in pa,st the light boat well into the mouth of the river and cajne to anchor. The next morning the river pilot came aboard and at sunrise we were getting under way with American flag flying and the Danish man-of-war so near in that he could see it plainly. We arrived in Hamburg to the surprise of every one that we had run the blockade. — There was not an American ship in port. I chartered for New York, a very high charter. The lower hold was full of cargo and a full complement of passengers be- tween decks, — perhaps 300 or more. A Boston l)ark left Havana 54 three days before I did bound to Hamburg. I think I had been in six days when she came along, and fell in with the blockade and was ordered off. She went back to Flushing Roads and lay till the next summer. This was during July and August. When we sailed for Xew York, we discharged our pilot at the mouth of the river. We saw the blockading ship in the offing; and passed quite near to her. She didn't want anything of us and by the laws of nations she couldn't trouble us outward bound. But I have little doubt that the remark was made aboard of her, — "That's the Yankee that ran the blockade." We ar- rived in New York after a pleasant passage of thirty-five days with no sickness or other calamity. So ended this prosperous voyage. Then I chartered for Limerick, in Ireland, then up the Medi- terranean to Palermo, for a cargo of fruit to Xew York. As my vessel was new and had only made one voyage we had to metal her bottom. This is done to keep the worms from eating the 2:)lank. We sailed and arrived in the river that leads up to Lim- erick, going up with a fair wind. The pilot plumped her on to a ledge. We took in all our sails then carried a small anchor with a hawser attached to it out astern, and as it was a flowing tide we got off without any accident except the loss of a few sheets of metal. We sent up to Limerick for another pilot and arrived safely. The first pilot that put her on a ledge I said I would not pay. He begged of me not to report him to the commissioners as he feared if I did he would lose his branch. My consignee was chairman of the commissioners. I stated the case to him. and he told me that I could make a statement of the case and he would have his branch taken from him. I had no desire to injure the man by depriving him of his means of livelihood. The tide rises and falls so much in Limerick that it ebbed away from the vessel every low water so that we repaired our metal that was injured by the pilot getting us on the ledge with very little expense. The morning that the vessel was going down the river in charge of a pilot I had to stop to finish up my business, supposing that I should join the vessel that evening. About the time that she went away this pilot that had put her on the ledge appeared. Ho assisted in casting off the lines to let her go, and then he appealed to me to give him something. He admitted that he had no claim for pilotage but his wife and children were suffering for food, and he was without money. His pitiful story touched me, and I gave him a five pound note. He took it and thanked me very kindh^, and told me that he knew he had no claim for pilotage, 36 but the money that I had given him would relieve his family, and he could go home to them carrying food. Instead of doing that he went off and hired a lawyer and I was arrested in less than an hour. I went right uj) with the sheriff and saw my consignee. He became my bondsman. I had to appear in court that afternoon. Then I said to my con- signee, "I want a good lawyer." He told me of one, and sent a clerk with me to the lawyer's office. I told him my story. He requested me to be at his office at 2 P. M. I left and went on with my business. When this pilot was casting off the ropes, Capt. Small of the American bark Glynn of Freeport, Me., was standing there and heard all the conversation between the pilot and myself and saw me give him the five pound note. Just before dinner time this Captain Small came into the office where I was and asked me to take dinner aboard his vessel. As she was but a short distance away, I gladly accepted. After we were through dinner I invited him to go up to my lawyer's and up to the court house, not thinking I should want to use him. He accepted the invitation, and we went to the lawyer's office. Then we three started for the court house. On the way he took me by the arm. Only think of my feelings walking arm in arm with the best lawyer in Limerick. He said, "Xow, if they put you on the stand you tell the truth if you have a mind to, but don't you mind what I say." The case was opened immediately, and this pilot had a half dozen witnesses or more to be examined. He proved that the vessel wouldn't steer, and that caused the accident. I don't sup- pose any -one of these witnesses knew anything about the case except as he had told them to swear. As my vessel had gone I had no witnesses at all. The lawyers began their arguments. When my lawyer was making his argument, his opponent came up back of the judge and whispered in his ear. My lawyer grabbed him and hauled him away, saying, "You shouldn't be whispering in the judge's ear." So my lawyer went on with his argument, quite at length but with very little truth in it. He stated that this vessel was just newly coppered in New York, and chartered to go up to Palermo to get a cargo of fruit for N^ew York; that now by this pilot running her ashore and stripping off so much of her copper when there was no chance to remetal her, she would have to return to ?^ew York to remetal, and as that would be a deviation of the voyage the owners would have to pay a large forfeiture. Any one that knew anything about vessels and their business would know that the argument was 56 mostly his. I felt as though I had lost the case by my own law- yer's lying. As soon as he sat down I was on my feet, stepped a few steps toward the judge, and said, — "Will vour honor allow me to make a few statements of the facts as they were ?" He consented. I began with the time the vessel ran on the ledge, and told the whole process of getting her off ; I told of the sending for another pilot because I couldn't trust the other, "and now,'' I said, "he has quite a number of witnesses here that tes- tify that they were down the river and that they saw the whole, and that the refusal of the vessel to steer caused the accident. I state to your Honor that there wasn't a boat in sight when this vessel went on the ledge, so that their evidence is manufactured for the occasion. I never saw him from the time the vessel made fast to the wharf till we were casting off to go away. He helped do it; after the vessel was gone he told me he knew he had no claim for pilotage but his wife and children were destitute and he hadn't any money to buy food for them, that if I would give him something he would consider it very kind in me. His appeal of destitution touched me very much and I gave him a five pound note. He thanked me and seemed very much pleased and left as I supposed to buy food. Less than one hour I was under arrest. And here he is now with a lot of witnesses who have sworn to what he has requested them. I fully believe this to be the case for I know they did not see the vessel on the ledge." "This is all I have to say, your Honor; and I have given you a plain statement of the facts." The judge said, "Can you prove that he said that he had no claim on you ?" "Yes. I have a gentleman. Captain Small, master of an American bark. He asked me to take dinner with him today as my vessel is gone, and after dinner I asked him here not thinking I should need him. His name is Charles Small. I'd like to have him called and let him make a statement under oath of the con- versation that he heard between this pilot and me." He was called, made his statement and the judge said, "Captain, you are discharged." So there was no cost except in anxiety. I joined my vessel and sailed for and arrived at Palermo, a pleasant and safe passage. Although we were from New York, and by the w^ay of Limerick, and there was no sickness in either port, still they quarantined us for twenty-one days. They took my vessel's papers from my hands with a pair of tongs eight to ten feet long, and held them over a little fire of smoke that they 67 had made for the occasion. This we thought was cruel, and we knew needless, to be confined on board the vessel twenty-one days, but we had to comply with it. Their quarantine laws are so strict that if a vessel has laid out about her time and another vessel has just commenced her days of quarantine, that if a bird should light on the one that has just commenced her quarantine then fly and light on the one that the quarantine is almost out. the latter has to lay out the quarantine of the one just com- menced. Ill state a few things of interest to us after we were out of quarantine. The vessel lay an anchor off and stern hawser to the quay, so that she was not more than twenty-five feet from the quay. They have barbers there that go round with a little stool ; when they can find a customer he sits on the stool and is shaved. A few days before I arrived one of these barbers was down on the quay about noon when the laborers had gone for their dinner. Some fellow came along who had a grudge against the barber and he killed him and went off and left him lying there. Soon after another fellow came along, took out his big knife and cut the head from the body and threw it away some distance. I have no doubt as to the truth of this as it was told to me by parties whom I believed. One pleasant morning a guide came down with two little donkeys in addition to the one he rode on. Mrs. Webster and myself soon mounted on the other two and were off for a very high mountain. We could seldom see the top of it for clouds. This took us hours, I think over three, to go to the top. Then we didn't look up to see the clouds, but down. After we descended a short distance we came to a Catholic church or chapel which seemed to be in a cave. It was furnished with tables, chairs, and so on. Hanging up round the walls was hair cut from female's heads, done up in large twists. Our guide told us that some women had promised if certain things should come to them, they would give all the hair from their heads to this church. Others promised in the same way, that if certain things came to them they would go up this mountain backwards till they came to the church. Others promised to crawl up the mountain on their hands and knees. On our descending we saw one person plodding her way up in this situation. We returned to our vessel just before night quite tired but pleased with our journey. Another day we visited a Catholic church and went dowru twenty feet or more, till we came to a large mortuary where we found doubtless thousands of dead bodies, some laying on shelves 58 dressed and gloved as though alive and looking natural; others standing against the walls, some almost hard to believe dead. For all those that looked so much like life, their friends had to fetch so many wax candles, enough to burn for a year. If they failed to do that they were taken out and put into the ground. This place was all lighted by the wax candles, perhaps two can- dles to every body. Another day we visited a park with a guide. We went through winding paths and roads till we were well into the woods, and we came to a nice looking little house, with steps to the door. The guide said that any one who liked could go up there and the door would be opened. We all supposed that we would get an inside view of this house or cottage, so Mrs. Webster ascended the steps. As soon as she stepped on the upper step the doors flew open and there was an image dressed like a priest, within three feet of her, bowing very politely. Of course, she turned and came down. I think few women could have met that sudden sur- prise without being very much frightened. Mrs. Webster did not show the least alarm. We went to another house. The guide requested us to stand one side while he went up to the door, standing a little one side of the door. It flew open and there was another image of a priest holding the pipe of a water hose in his hand, I think the water squirted from it twenty or thirty feet. We visited one more house. The door flew open, and there was a priest sitting at the table with an open Bible. His face turned toward us; he motioned with his hand for us to leave. This guide told me that he had never taken any one into this park who could find the way out. I said, "Let me go ahead," and I went out, they all following me, very much to the guide's surprise. I told the company how I did it. There had been a light shower, and of these high trees, the branches extended over the walks. When we went in we disturbed the leaves, so I discov- ered the way, by the dew from the leaves. Another day we took a carriage and drove out about six miles to a church on high land in a very small village of a few small houses. We left our carriage and went into the church. It was very nice and expensive. The inside was all mosaic work. As we came out we were surrounded by beggars. They followed us to our carriage, and the driver started Up immediately, but they followed holding out their hands into the carriage. The driver , seeing the situation whipped his horses into a run, and got clear of these dangerous people. When I told where we had been to 59 the U. S. Consul he said it was very dangerous for us to run that risk, as it had happened that people were stolen and hid away, and a high ransom demanded. After being told the danger that we went through it would have required a large amount of money to hire me to make another excursion of the same kind. Mrs. Webster spent considerable time with the U. S. Consul's wife while we were in port. She told her of the terrible Civil war JQst ended there, and we were told of it by others. It was terribly cruel. They killed people in the streets and let them lie. In a short time our vessel was loaded and we sailed for New York. For a fortnight after we were out we had light head winds, and made but little progress. We hadn't got near down to Gibraltar, when, one pleasant morning, there was a bark right astern of us. The Captain said he was bound from Palermo to Baltimore, and that he was going into Palermo when I was going out. I think by the way he spoke that he was pleased with his doings. I didn't rejoice with him a bit. Soon after the wind breezed up ahead, and away he went, and I believe he outsailed me one fifth. He tacked ship in the afternoon, and as he came along, I think he" was six or eight miles to the windward of me, — a terrible beat. I didn't see any more of him for about a week or ten days, and we had got through the Straits of Gibraltar and well clear of the land, but with a strong head wind. My vessel was on the port tack heading to the northwest. I sighted a vessel a little on our weather-bow. My vessel at this time was under close reefed topsails, reefed courser, inner jib and reefed spanker. I have no doubt she was doing all she could judging by the way she trembled. As I came up with this vessel I found her to be the same one that had sailed me out of sight ten days before. He was laying too under a main spencer with his royal and top gallant yards down. When a vessel is in this situa- tion the Captain must think that it is very heavy weather. The next day the wind canted more to the northwest, and I wore ship and got on the starboard tack. The wind continued to become more northerly and at the least let up of wind we would add more canvas. I have not a doubt that if this vessel had been human and could have spoken it would have said "You don't let me rest a biti" The wind had continued to haul round until it got on our starboard quarter. We had increased our canvas till we had the topgallant sail set. I thought the vessel had about all the can- vas she could bear. Mrs. Webster said, "Can't you get that fore- 60 topmast-staysail boom out and get some preventers on it so that you can set/ the f oretopmast-staysail ?" This sliows how anxious she was to drive a vessel ahead. I arrived in New York, received $50 from my consignee for the quick passage I had made; for being loaded mostly with oranges they think a great deal of a quick passage. About six days after my arrival I saw the arrival of this bark that had beaten me so much in Baltimore. Doubtless our feelings had changed, — mine to pleasure and perhaps pride, doubtless his to envy or mortification. After discharging, I ballasted my vessel and sailed to Havana. On my arrival, I chartered for three pounds, fifteen shillings per ton for Cowes and a market, and was ordered to London to dis- charge. While there I took Mrs. Webster to see many things that were interesting, amongst other things the block that Mary Queen of Scots laid her head on and the ax that beheaded her. and some of the clothes that Lord Nelson wore at the battle of Trafalgar when he was shot, — the vest with the blood stains on it ; also Napoleon's carriage that was taken from him. We sailed from there for Cardiff, Wales, and loaded for New York. We arrived there after a pleasant and successful voyage. 3 ' ^ 1 13 5 3 3 13 O 5 1 5 t i J '3 > » -* .13 3 > 3 3 •>3 '^3 5 3 3 3)33 CHAPTER X. TOOK COMMAND OF THE SHIP PUMGUSTUCK. Two years and nine months from the time I sailed from Port- land in this vessel new, I put my mate, a young man, in command of her. In this two years and nine months I had metalled this vessel, paid for it and all of her cost within $300. After getting her away I came home and stopped at home nearly a year ; had a ship built of which I owned one third. Mr. Baker who had owned seven sixteenths of the bark I left owned two thirds of her. We filled her full of hay on our own account. We sailed from Portland under double reefed topsails, passed Portland light just as they were lighting it. That night it blew very heavily and we had to come under very short canvas, wind on her quarter, but still kept her on her course, and arrived at the mouth of the Mississippi Bar, nine days from Portland. I know of no ship that has ever made the passage in that short time. Sold the hay and loaded for Boston. We arrived and loaded again for New Orleans, arrived out safely. We loaded cotton for St. Peters- burg. As is the custom in New Orleans we get our men aboard in the evening, and go down the river with a heavy tug-boat. This time the tug-boat had another ship in tow besides mine. Men were allowed to stay in all night and they were called out the first thing for breakfast ; then they were turned to to go get sails on the vessel. As we got to the mouth of the river, the other ship was dropped from the tow as the Captain of the tug-boat did not like to take two ships on the bar, fearing that one or both might ground. My ship being loaded wholly with cotton, it was pretty sure that slie would go over the bar without stopping. As the sailors saw that we were proceeding right to sea, they came aft in a body and said to me, "You must take this ship back into the river. She is too crank and is not sea- worthy, and we will not do any more duty on board of her." They went off forward ; it not being a proper time to have any trouble with them, I went on board the tug-boat into the wheel-house and told the Captain that my men had refused duty. By this time we were over the bar, and there was a verv light wind off the land. I requested the Captain not to cast off 62 until I had some sail on the vessel and then to let go but one rope at a time, as I had but myself, two mates, a cook and steward to do the work. He said he would make it as easy as he could for me. Mrs. Webster took the steering-wheel and we set some of the small sails, jib, spanker, and some of the stay-sails, enough to force the ship ahead so she would steer. Then they began to cast off the tow-ropes one at a time, and when we had the last one in the tug-boat sheered off and left us. In getting in these big ropes I was completely out of breath. I said to the second mate, — "Go and take the wheel from Mrs. Webster." I sat down and rested perhaps five or ten minutes until I could breathe all right, then I said to the chief mate, "Go and call the men all aft." They all came. I said to them, "You demanded of me to fetch this ship to anchor and said you would not do any more duty aboard. She is now at sea, and will go to St. Petersburg unless I run ashore or some other ac- cident happens. And you have got to work or not eat. So go forward and make up your minds and report in ten minutes whether you'll turn to or not." In less than the stated time, two of them came aft and said. "We are ready to go to work, sir." I said to chief mate, — "Turn these men to, and get sail on as quick as possible." It was done. We arrived at Cronstadt, the discharging port of St. Petersburg, after a pleasant passage. Everything was pleasant after this for the passage. We discharged and went to the port of Wyborg in Finland to load for Bordeaux in France with the same crew. Before leaving Wyborg the steward told me that we had only coffee enough for a few days, and asked mo to get some chickory and peas and he would make it last. As coffee was very high I was glad to do it. He burnt and ground his chickory and peas, and added a little to the coffee. So ha continued, — a little less coffee and more chickory and peas till it was all chickory and peas. The men did not know this. The first day in Bordeaux I bought good green coffee, and the cook burnt and ground it and gave it to the men the next morning for breakfast. They came aft to me when they had had their breakfast and wanted me to taste of the stuff that was given them for coffee, and said if they had to drink that kind of stuff they wanted a discharge. They were so much dissatisfied, that they all but one man ran away. The United States law at that time was such that I could not discharge them without three months' 63 extra pay, so it did not discommode me at all for them to leave, as I had no trouble in getting a full crew when I wanted them. I will" tell how I got one man. There was an American sailor from another vessel ashore on liberty, and he got intoxicated and was picked up by the police guard and put in prison. The vessel that he belonged to sailed leaving this sailor there ; the Captain not choosing to pay his jail fee and take him aboard. A short time after this vessel sailed, I was told of the circumstances and made inquiry of the cost of getting him out of jail. I sent the money by a clerk that belonged to the house my ship was con- signed to, and in a short time this sailor that I had never seen came into the office and inquired for the captain of the American ship Pumgustuck. I answered him and he said, "You have taken me oat of prison. I want to go aboard of your ship and I'll serve you faithfully for your kindness." I said, "It would be no use, you would get drunk as soon as you had a chance.^' He said, "If youll let me go, I promise not to taste liquor ; I ask for no wages, only for a chance to serve you for your kindness in taking me out of prison." The man seemed so sincere and so much in earnest, that I took him on board, and found him an excellent sailor and a good sail-maker, a very useful man in repairing sails and in any other work of a seaman. When we were loaded with a cargo of wine we sailed for New Orleans with some sixty passengers. After we were clear of the land and down into the northeast trades with pleasant weather, everything going along peaceably and pleasant, my sister who was with us and another girl that roomed wath her thought they could have a great deal of fun by having I^^eptune come on board. It would be something that those passengers knew nothing about. They asked my consent which I gave. I told them the best man they could get for old Neptune would be this sailor that I took out of prison, and they might talk with him. They did so. He refused to comply with their wishes. They told me, and I sent for him and had him come aft. I asked him why he didn't consent to act the part of old Neptune. He replied, "Sir, it never will do. I promised if you would take me on board of your ship I would not get intoxi- cated, and if I consent I know I shall get drunk." I told him I couldn't understand that for they were to have no liquor. After some talk he said he would consent if I wouldn't get angry with him. So it was arranged for a certain night. Along in the evening, it was very pleasant with a side wind, ship listed down a little, passengers all on deck, w^hen some one prob- 64 ably a sailor that understood what was going on ran to the lee side of the vessel and sang out, "0 see what a whale !" The passengers all ran to the lee side to see this whale and just at this time the sailor who represented Neptune came over the bow dripping wet and sings out with a speaking trumpet, — "Ship ahoy ! I want to see the master !" By this time the passengers heard it and as it was a bright moonlight night they could see him well, rigged up as he was looking like nothing human, ropeyarns for a beard two feet long and other disguises so he walked along the weather side of the deck, water dripping from him, passengers staring and won- dering. He came to me — "Are you Captain of this ship?" "Yes." "Well I see you have a great many here that have never crossed the line, and it is my custom that they must be shaved. So I will begin with some of the men first." I don't know as he shaved any one, but he had all the fixings, his lather, and I think a piece of iron hoop for a razor. They begged to be let off. He said, — "Only on one condition can you escape being shaved. Give me a bottle of wine." As these passengers had wine every day with their meals, they were very glad to compromise with him and get clear. How much they gave him I don't know, but this I know, he was well drunk. I couldn't say a word for I had promised not to be angry. He soon got over it and was himself again. He stayed by the vessel until she was well made fast and the watchman on board; then he said, "Captain, I must leave. I promised that I would serve you faithfully and wouldn't get drunk. If I stay here I know I shall break my promise." The next day I paid him off with just the same money the other sailors had. While at Wyborg in Finland I and my wife were away from the vessel, and the second mate had some trouble with one of the men, and struck him with a piece of board which gave him a mark he would carry as long as he lived. As I have stated, the men all deserted in Bordeaux with the exception of one. This man did not leave, and I learned through the steward that he was bound to stick by the vessel. Before leaving, I wrote to my shipping master in New Orleans to engage a lawyer, as I sus- pected there would be trouble between one of the sailors and the mates. The ship-master did as I requested. When I towed into 65 the mouth of the river, a boat came off and brought a letter from the lawyer stating, — "Detain the ship below, and let the mates come up the day before you come, so that they cannot be found to be arrested." I showed the letter to the Captain of the tug-boat and told him what I feared. He said, "I'll get those men out of the ship for you and they shall not be caught. To-night, when everything is still and dark, let both the mates take all their be- longings and pass it out on boaid the boat. Be sure it is passed out from the after part of the ship, so if there is a man forward he shan't see it. And when you arrive at the levee, probably there will be a sheriff there, but he will have to get these men's names on the writ, and then there will be a general rush on board the ship, — stevedores, sailor landlords, tailors, and others, solic- iting business. You be sure that you get us a good strong bow hawser out forward— enough to hold the ship. At the time when all those people are rushing on board, let the two mates come on board my boat from the aft part of the ship. The after house will keep them out of sight of those forward and as soon as they are on board I will let go all ropes from the ship and sheer of .'^ It was done just as he planned it. Mr. Dennison from Free- port had done the discharging and loading my vessels in ISTew Orleans a number of times, and was one of the first to come on board. I said, — "Can you raise some men very quickly and make this ship fast ? My mates are gone, and I want to go immediately.^' He went for men, but 3'Ou ought to see the stirprise when the sheriff and the sailors and the landlords came out of the fore- castle, — the sailors intending to point out the mates to the sheriff. But thev were not to be found. I told the steward that I was going and there would be a man down with some men to make the ship fast, and for him to assist all he could. The ship- ping-master being there, I left with him to see the lawyer. Went to his office, and as soon as the ceremony of being introduced to him was over, the lawyer said, "I have got the wrong side. It is the sailors' side I generallv take." I replied that I was aware of that, and that was why I wrote from France to retain him. There was nothing to be done till the men were found. It went on for about three davs, and the train that left for Mobile was watched, and a notice pasted up in different places "$100 reward for information with regard to the whereabouts of these men." I think four days went by when the lawyer sent for me. "Look here, if you don't settle this case, thev are going to arrest vou. I 66 have been keeping them back for two days, and I don't think I can any longer ; for all those men will swear under oath that yon were present and urging the second mate on/' The fact was I was not within miles of the vessel, and when I returned at night, I fixed up the man the best way I could, and got him into the hospital that night. I had all done for him that could be done. The lawyer told how small a sum the affair could be compromised for, clearing the men, if found, and myself. That day the com- promise was made, and I felt relieved. After discharging I loaded for N'ew York. As is customary, all ships going down that lay well up town are towed down to the lower part of the city to make up their tow before dark. I saw the shipping-master on charge in the forenoon; he said, "It is not worth while for you to come down till you come down in the ship for I have all your men shipped and can puf them on board at very short notice." When I got down in the ship it was about dark. We made fast to the other ship that was going down with us. Hearing nothing from the shipping-master as I expected as soon as I got down, I went to his office, a short distance, and found him there, looking sad. He said, "I don't know what's up, but every man I had shipped for you has backed out, and I have shipped others and they soon come back and say they won't go. I am afraid I can't get you a crew to-night." I went from the ship to the shij)ping-office a number of times. It grew late, and the tug-boat Captain was anxious to start. I prevailed on him to wait a short time longer till I went to the shipping-office again to see if there were any prospect, but a very short distance before I got to the office, I passed this sailor that had the scar from the second mate in Wyborg, standing on the sidewalk. Just as I reached the shipping-office door, a sailor came out. I turned to look at him and saw him stop and talk with the sailor with the broken nose. As I went into the office, the shipping-master said "It's no use, I can't get you a crew for to-night. If I get a man and he ships he returns in a very few minutes and says he caji't go. There's one just come in that I had shipped and said he couldn't go." I said, "I have found out the reason. That sailor with whom we had the trouble in Wyborg is on the watch and stops every one that comes out." The shipping-master said, "I'll fix him," and he left me. He returned with one man. As he and I stopped at the door, he advanced to the sailor who was causing all the others to back 67 out and hit him a slajD. Two or three others concealed close by rushed out and sang out, — "A row ! a row !" Two policemen were concealed close by so arranged by the shipping-master, and rushed out, grabbed this sailor, one each side, and walked him off to the calaboose. Strange to say, in less than an hour and a half my vesselleft with a full crew. As both of my mates had left, I was in want of a chief mate at once. One afternoon, quite a nice looking man came down and inquired for the Captain, and told me he had heard I wanted a chief officer. I asked him finally if he had any recommenda- tions from his last vessel. He held out his two hands — "There are all the recommendations I have, sir. I have just been turned ashore from the ship I came in in." He told me the reasons. 1 didn^t think any the less of him after hearing them. He proved to be an A 1 man in every respect. I shall have more to say about him later. / CHAPTEE XI. IN THE ICE. We had a very quick passage to the Highlands, near Sandy Hook. We went in past the Hook with a light wind from the southwest, and got up perhaps half the way to the Narrows. There the wind died away about calm and we anchored. As the ebb-tide made, the pilot told me he feared it would bring the ice down. I said, "Then why not get the anchor and let her drift out with the tide ?" "0, we can't do that, for the ebb-tide would take her right on the east bank. We have got to hold her if we can.'^ The' ice came down in a body. Although we lay with a very long scope of chain out, the ice came down against the chain, and pressed it so hard it seemed as if the chain would be right up and down. Then the ice would crack and the chain would fly up out of water, beyond the jib-boom end. But in less than an hour the chain parted and the ship went ashore on the east bank. We had noticed a tug-boat trying to get through the ice to us. Coming on dark, he gave it up. The ship lay heel down till her bilge lay on the bottom. When the tide turned it brought the pressure on the other side, and righted her up and she went off the bank when there was not enough water to float her by two feet. The next ebb-tide she went ashore again. As we could do nothing with her, the ship was wholly at the mercy of the ice. At times we could see no water inside Sandy Hook, just one glare of ice. One small single decked vessel went ashore about the time we did the first time and shortly before dark the crew all left her and started to walk ashore to Long Island. The second time we went ashore, the stern took on the bottom first and we swung around, broadside to the ice. I had my fears that the ice would keep shelving up as it struck the vessel's side piling up beside her, and I feared it would pile up so as to run over her. Along in the night, while it was bitterly cold, ther- mometer below zero, I said to the pilot, — "Don't you think we better put two boats over the side and hang them by yard tackles ? So if the ice does pile up alongside we can get into the boats, lower them on the ice, and escape from the ship." 69 He answered that it would do no harm. We put them over and let them hang by tackles so we could lower them very quickly on the ice. I told my wife and sister what I feared we might have to do, and for them to get ready and put on all the clothes they could. I was on deck most of the time, watching the ice, and at one time it got up so high it seemed within three or four feet of the deck. I went into the cabin to take them out and they were all ready. My wife, sister, pilot and little boy George, perhaps five years old. There was a good fire, cabin warm, and they were all sitting on the floor, the ship was so much heeled down. As I opened the door, they all looked so comfortable I thought I would go out and look again before taking them, and I saw the whole body of ice moving a little. I watched it and it gradually moved faster till it went round the stern of the ship. As there was no pressure she righted up at once. I wish to state here that this boy George was given to my wife by her widowed sister when he was about three years old; she having three children, and very limited means of support. This night when they were getting ready to leave the ship and getting on warm clothing, George picked up most of his toy playthings and said he wasn't going away and leave them. More about him later. When the flood-tide came it took the ship off the bottom again, but she was still at the mercy of the ice. As soon as it was day- light we saw the steam tug-boat still trying to break a way through the ice to get to iis. He succeeded in doing it about ten A. M. As we found he was nearing us we got our hawsers all ready tb make fast to him and as he got near he hollered, "I won't take your hawser less than five thousand dollars.'' I replied, "Get your boat alongside so I can talk with you." He did this, and I went on board and up into the wheel-house where he was. I said to him, "You can't mean five thousand, you mean five hundred dollars." "I mean five thousand dollars. I have a chance to make money and I am going to do it, and you have got to sign this before I will allow your hawser to be made fast." It was a bill for five thousand dollars. It being a case of life and death with us, I signed the bill. He did not know that he was bound and that I was not; for a man that is in danger of his life can sign any agreement to save his life, and when saved the agreement is of no account. We reached Staten Island, by getting in near the shore where tlie ice was not so thick. In the afternoon the ice cleared out enough so we reached the dock in 70 New York. The next morning, the man to whom I consigned the ship, James Nesmith, and I went to the Atlantic Insurance Co., the biggest insurance company in N'ew York. They had $15,000 insured on the cargo. I stated the whole case to Mr. Jones, presi- dent of the company. He replied, "Captain, that's a good deal of money." I said I knew it. He said^ "You are not holden to that agreement. We will take time to consider i t before we pay." As the bill was not paid that clay the steamboat agent left the bill with a lawyer. I was notified that if the bill was not paid that day the ship would be libelled. I immediately went and handed the letter to the President of the Company. He read it and said, "You go across the street to a certain office and ask Mr. Benedict, the lawyer, to come over here." I did so, and the lawyer returned with me. Mr. Jones said, "Why are you hurrying this thing up in this way ?" He replied, "I want you to say whether you will pay this bill or you will not. If you say you won't pay it, Avhich I hope you will, then I shall know what to do." The President said he would let him know the next morning, and he left. Then the President said, "I want you to be here at 2 P. M." I was there at the time and he and I got into a coach and were driven to Lawyer Lord's office, he being considered one of the best, or the best lawyer in New York. I was introduced to him, and the President told me to state the case to him just as it was. I repeated what I had told him the day before. The lawyer asked what the cargo consisted of. "Pork and lard in the lower hold, cotton between decks." He asked how many bales of cotton, how much pork, and how much lard. He then said, "Mr. Jones, pay that bill by all means. If you don't, and he libels the ship and cargo, he'll get $27,000 or more, and then he'll put on another claim for life salvage, and the court will award him a large amount for that." We left, and I was well pleased and felt justified in making the agreement of $5000. The next day the bill was paid. * The consignees of the cargo signed an average bond to pay their proportional part of everything that came under a general average which was the steamboat bill and all damage to the ship. We discharged ship, put her into dry dock, and she was examined by surveyors and an estimate made of the cost of repairing her, everything complete. Then I had an estimate of all calking and 71 painting and sent them to Boston, as the ship was wholly insured in Boston, stating, — "I enclose these estimates to you, thinking you might wish to send an agent here to look after her. If you do, I am ready to make a compromise, if your agent comes with power from 3'ou to do the same." I went on, recalked the bottom, bored out a good many tunnels that were started, and metalled the ship, as she had never been metalled before and was but little over a year old. We floated her and she was laying at the dock one very pleasant but cold morning when a man walked down the wharf and said, "Are you Captain of this ship ?" I replied, "I am.'^ "I am sent on as agent of the Boston Insurance Co. where your ship is insured." When he told me this, we shook hands, and I said, "I am glad to see you here, sir." There were from forty to fifty men at work on the ship then. He said, "What are you cutting out that plank for? There is nothing the matter with it." "The forward part of this plank for fifteen or twenty feet was cut badly by the ice and I choose to take the whole plank out; for it is much better to have one long plank than two short ones, and I intend to have this ship as good as she was before." He said, "If there is a fire in the cabin, let's go in out of the cold." We went in and he was introduced to my wife, and he took out quite a package of papers, and said, "I have all your estimates here. They are very high." I replied, "Perhaps they are, but I had them from men that would do the work for the amount specified." He said, "You mentioned in your letter that you were ready to compromise. How much will you compromise for ?" I told him the amount. "0, we can't give you that." "Well, then I'll go on and repair her." He told me he didn't think I'd get an average, and if I did not, then we would have to pay all the expenses ourselves. I replied that I knew that, but that I had figured it all out and I was sure I should get an average. He said, "No use for me to remain here and I shall return to- night, but I will give vou so much," stating the amount. I replied that I should not take it. He said, "Will you think it over and be at Mr. N'esmith's office at 3 o'clock this afternoon ?" 72 When I went there, he was waiting for me, and asked if I had thought it over, and decided to take his offer. I answered, "I should not take your offer. But it would save a great deal of trouble and time to compromise as I should have to wait till the work was all done and then get the bills in to ascertain the claim 1 should have on the underwriters, and I had come to the conclusion that I would take $500 from my offer to you, and if you accept I am to have the money at once." There was considerable talk between us and as it drew near the time that he wanted to leave and he being satisfied, I suppose, that he couldn't move me from my offer, said, "Well, I will close with you.'' A memorandum of this agreement was written off at once, signed by both and we separated, he for Boston and I for my ship. I saw the shipwright at once and said, "I have compromised and have the ship on my own hands. I only want about half the number of men to-morrow morning. Will you go with me and let me select the men I want ?" He assented. As these men were all working on the stages around the ship I pointed out the men I wanted, without their knowing it, and he said, "You have selected all my best men." "I intended to. Can you send the men I have selected here to-morrow morning ?" '^^Yes." I'll state here that this shipwright, Mr. Pullion, had done work for me for over nine years, and continued to up to his death which made over forty years that he had done my ship work in New York, and part of the time on nine different vessels. I went on repairing my vessel. Before she was done the money was sent me from the underwriters in Boston, and it was enough to pay all bills for everything done on the ship, including new metalling, and there was a small amount left. CHAPTER XII. SAIL FOR HAVANA. I loaded for Havana, and arrived after a pleasant passage, where I chartered and loaded for Hamburg. My men all stayed by, the ship was loaded, sails bent and she got ready for sea. Next morning I had no crew ; all had deserted. I feared I would be put to much trouble to get a crew as there was a scarcity of sailors in Havana, and I knew of a bark that had had much trouble with the crew, and they were all discharged before the U. S. Consul. I went to see the Captain of this vessel at once and asked if he was all clear of those men, and he answered "Yes." "My men all deserted last night and I want a full crew. I would not try to get the men that you had without seeing you." He answered, "I have nothing to do with them; it makes no difference to me where they go.'' I said, "In all cases of trouble with sailors on ship-board there are one or two that are the leaders and cause of the trouble. Was it so in this case ?" "Yes, there are two I advice you not to take." "Please give me their names.'' He did so and I bade him good morning thanking him for the information. I went immediately to the shipping-master and asked if he could get me the crew that had left the bark of which I have been speaking. He answered that he could, and I gave him the names of the two I did not want. He thought he could raise up some more so as to make me a full crew, so I could leave the next morning. I went on board my own ship, returned after dinner to the shipping-office. The shipping-master told me that those men would not ship unless I took them all, and he did not know of any other men he could get. I told him to wait an hour and I went immediately on board my ship, told the mate the situation, and he replied, "0 I would take them all; we can take care of them." This mate is the one I shipped in New Orleans, and who, when I asked him for a reference, held out his two hands and said, — "This is all the reference I can give you." 74 I then went on shore, and had that whole crew shipped and we left the next morning two men short. We had a pleasant pas- sage, and arrived in the Elbe. There is a shoal place in the river and the pilot said that if we didn't lighten the ship enough to get over it the next day that we should have to lay over till the next high run of tides. I went to Hamburg and got two large lighters and got them down to the vessel late in the afternoon. I commenced at once discharging boxes of sugar into the lighters. We worked till six o'clock, and got supper; then turned to at seven, discharging sugar. At midnight had a good warm supper. After an hour's rest, we commenced work again. About 4 o'clock A. M. the lighters were loaded and the 'tween decks more than half empty. The men had coffee and a lunch and then got the ship under way so that we arrived at Hamburg about 7 P. M. There were no tug-boats there then. After we had breakfast I went on shore takinoj mv wife and left her at the hotel, then attended to my business, — entering the ship and making arrangements for discharging. I went on board in the afternoon. There was not one of the men there that we shipped in Cuba. I have never seen or heard of one of them since. While they were on board my ship they were peaceable and performed their duty without giving any trouble. Here after discharging, I loaded the lower hold with a cargo for New York and took a full complement of passengers between decks — between four and five hundred. About the time the Cuba cargo was discharged this mate that had said he had only hands to recommend him told me he must leave. I saw that he looked very sad. I had not a thought but that he was well pleased with the situation and I was well pleased with him; so I thought it very strange that he should say that he must leave, and I told him so. He said, "I'll tell you my reasons. I am engaged to be married to a girl in London ; I have been saving my money and sending it to her, so that when the time came to be married we should have something to start in life with. I have received a letter from a friend in London stating that she is married. I must go and see if I can't get my money or some of it back. But I'll stay with you till the ship is loaded and leaves, if you wish." I didn't see him for about four years, then it was in N'ew York and he was master of one of the packet-ships ; there were no steamers crossing the Atlantic in those days. He was a smart capable man and a first rate disciplinarian. There never was trouble with crew while he was with me. 75 About fifteen or twenty days after I left Hamburg for New York, a child, one of the passengers, was taken sick with the diphtheria. All was done in our power, but he died and was buried at sea. The ship hove to, the bell was tolled and funeral services were read. Then the deceased, sewed up in canvas with heavy weight at his feet, was launched into the sea. Others were taken sick, and nine in all died, and were buried at sea. In the sickness of these children mv wife was often between decks with them, trying to do something to relieve their suffering. In fact I think she did as much or more than their own mothers. I think it was about fifteen days before we arrived in N'ew York that all the sickness on board was ended. Some five days before we ar- rived I told the passengers through an interpreter, that probably we should be quarantined thirty days on account of our sickness. But that if we could have everything clean and the 'tween decks looking neat there was a possibility that we should not be quar- antined. Every pains possible was taken to clean up and have the 'tween decks looking neat and smelling sweet. When we arrived at quarantine a doctor came on board. I gave him a report of everything as it was, number of deaths and dates. He went down, looked where the passengers were and 'tween decks and said, "I shall give you a permit to go up. Your ship is the neatest and cleanest that has arrived this season." That after- noon we got clear of all the passengers, most of whom went to the far West. This passage was a very hard and unpleasant one for me. My mate, that I got in Hamburg, was of very little use to me; the second mate, a youngster from Portland, never had been to sea with any One but me and I had put him forward perhaps faster than I ought to. He had a great deal of "ugly" in him when he got started, and he hectored and annoyed the chief mate in every way possible. The chief mate was not man enough to stand up and assume authority over him. I state a circumstance. One afternoon, while sailing under double reef topsails, — this was in the days before double topsails, — we split the foretopsail. We got it down, took it into the forward cabin. As I always took charge myself of all repairing of sails, and generally had one man especially qualified for the work, he and I went to work on this topsail. There was not room for any more to work to advan- tage. Mrs. Webster threaded the needles, waxed the twine, and kept needles threaded for us so there was no delay. About two o'clock A. M. this sail was done and sent aloft. I did not dare to trust either one of the mates, for fear lest their inexperience 76 might lose the sail^ so went aloft myself with the men, and the sail was soon bent and set double reefed. I could judge, if no other way, by the tremble of the ship when she had all the canvas she ought to bear. That forenoon I saw a ship quite near us running under a close reefed maintopsail and reefed foresail. We carried three close reefed topsails and reefed courser. After this ship was discharged and loaded outward, I put my wife's brother, Darius Pratt, in command, a smart capable man in every respect. CHAPTEE XIII. BUILDING THE SHIP HELIOS, AND HER STARTING. LOSS OF THREE VESSELS AT SEA. I went home and began building another ship. Mr. Baker and I were the sole owners just as in the case of the two last. Business was good in those days. The ship that I had left got four pounds fifteen shillings a ton freight from Havana to St. Petersburg. The bark of which I owned nine-sixteenths, and of which I had put my mate in command, got the same Reason five pounds for St. Petersburg. I wrote my brother-in-law in England that if he reached New York by a certain time he could have command of the new ship. I wrote the Captain of the bark that if he reached New York by a certain time that he could have the command of the ship that Capt. Pratt was going to leave. Capt. Pratt had got as far west as 45 longtitude, the wind blow- ing heavy and the ship under double reefed topsails. She was being driven into a head sea, and being loaded with iron, she started leaking. There was so much water in her that they were satisfied that she would sink soon. A shij^ came along and rescued them with great difficulty, and they were all carried back to Liverpool. The bark that I have spoken of got along within about two de- grees of where the ship was when she was abandoned. She was carrying a^ heavy press of canvas when perhaps she ought to have been under much shorter canvas. She shipped a heavy sea, opened her lee-water-ways and sprung a leak, so that the crew were taken off from her in less than twenty-four hours, and brought to New York and landed safe. I thought then and think now, that this new ship that we had nearly finished might have been the loss of both of the others, as the Captains were forcing them perhaps harder than they could bear, knowing that if they didn't reach New York by the time the new ship was done that the promised change would not be made. About this time Mr. Baker and I bought a large part of a bark about six years old loaded with grain for Ireland. One of our neighbors, Capt. John Davis, a man of much experience and a thorough sailor, was in command. Nine days from New York he abandoned the vessel in a sinking condition. The water had got at the grain, and the grain choked the pumps. We went on 78 with our new vessel, filled her full of hay on our own account, and put a man in command we knew well, steady and reliable. Nine days from Portland, she w^as totally dismasted. The ship was at anchor at the Isaacs the northwest part of the Bahama Banks in a heavy northwest wind. They couldn't got her under way to clear the land on either tack, and when she dragged her anchors, they cut away her three masts. Then she stopped drift- ing. After the gale was over, they rigged up jury masts and got her to Xew Orleans, the port for which she was bound. It cost us over $12,000 to remast her and rig her again. I received all this news inside six weeks, — the bark I owned nine-sixteenths of, total loss ; ship that I owned one-third of, the same ; ship that I owned fifteen thirty-seconds of, dismasted ; none fully insured. (This was in 1854.) Some of the insurance that I had is not yet collected, and never will be, on account of the failure of the companies. After hearing of the new ship's arrival in Xew Orleans, I went to Boston, contracted to have her sails all made and sent out to New Orleans, called at one of the insurance offices where they had ten thousand on the ship. Col. Adams was president of the com- pany, and I told him what I had done about the sails, and that I was going to New York to buy all the rigging and send it out. He approved of it. I asked if he had any agents in New Orleans, and he answered "No, nor don't want any. The man that kept the wreckers from that ship is all the agent I want. I want you to write him to be sure and make her as good as she was before." This president was a man I liked much, and he had had a risk on my vessels for a long time. After my arrival in New York the next morning I bought the rigging and had it on its way by the first steamer that left New York for New Orleans. About the time this vessel was done in New Orleans, a friend of mine, Capt. Enos Soule of Freeport, called on me to inquire how I was getting along with the ship in New Orleans. I told him that probably she was about finished. He asked how much it was going to cost. "Over $12,000," I answered. "Have you the money to pay it ?" "No, I have instructed the Captain to draw on me ten days from sight for the whole of it, and the money is due me, and if I am not disappointed, I shall have it." He said, "If you don't have it, jump into your sleigh and come over to see me." This man had offered me the command of a new ship many years before and I had been mate of a vessel that he owned one- 79 third of before I was twenty years old. His brother was master, and I was offered the command of this vessel that I was mate of before 1 was twenty-one. I did not accept it as the vessel was bound to Mobile in hurricane months and a sickly season. But I continued to go mate of her. I escaped tlie hurricane, but most of us got sick; but we were not taken till after we had got to sea. We got up toward Cape Fear, and had some assistance from a pilot boat as so many of the crew were sick, and got into Wil- mington. The Captain procured a sail loft for the men and took me to a boarding house where I had a good nurse and medical attendance. When I joined the vessel again she was loaded for Boston. We arrived in Boston, discharged our cargo, and came to Freeport. After about four weeks I joined the same vessel, same captain and sailors for Xew York. We were partly loaded for Appalachi- cola when I was taken with chills and fever which commonly occurs after having Southern fevers, and left and went home to my father's. I didn't get rid of chills and fever till towards spring. To show how little Northern doctors know, I was bled till I was much reduced. After feeling that I was sea- worthy again, I came to Portland. Not any one owing vessels or employing Captains knew me, and I had no one to refer to, and when I asked for a mate's situation, the first question was "Do you know how to store molasses ?" I had to answer "No," It did not seem as though I could get a mate's situation. I shipped aboard the brig Edward, before the mast, at nineteen dollars a month. We went to a number of ports in the Windward Islands. The Captain could not get the price he wanted for the cargo. Aher touching at a number of places, we arrived in St. Jago, Cuba. Captain sold the cargo here and then came the hard work of discharging, which we did without hired help. The mate was sick, — he was the Captain's brother. When we were all ready to take in cargo, a lighter of molasses alongside, the Cap- tain said to me, "Can you stow this cargo of molasses ?" "I can if you will go down and show me how to commence, and occasionallv come down and look at it." He did go down and show me how to commence ; I do not re- member that he ever came down afterwards. We loaded a full cargo of molasses, sailed, and arrived at Staten Island, New York. We were quarantined and discharged molasses into lighters with our own crew. There was not a hogs- head that had leaked out, which showed that it was well stowed, although I had never stowed a hogshead of molasses before. 80 With the cargo all discharged and ballast in, the vessel was ready for sea. The mate was sent home on our first arrival. We had got our breakfast forward, when the steward came and said to me, "The Captain wants to see you.^^ I went into the cabin, he was at the table, and said, "Ben, sit down and take breakfast with me. I am going to make a mate of you." "I can't accept the situation." He was somewhat surprised and wanted to know the reason. I told him that as all the crew was going in the vessel they woudn't feel right at my coming aft to be made mate. "0," he said, "I'll fix that. Cook, go and tell them all to come aft." He and I went on deck and he said to them, "I am going to take Ben for a mate. Which would you rather, — that I take him or go and get a stranger that you know nothing about ?" It was their unanimous choice to have me. The Captain said to them, "He is now Mr. Webster. He is *^Ben' with you no longer. Go and get your breakfast." Then turning to me, "Now will you go down and take breakfast with me ?" xA.fter we had our breakfast he gave me some instructions with regard to work he wanted done, — securing the ballast, getting vessel ready for sea, etc. After the men had time to eat their breakfast, I walked for- ward and said to them in a commanding voice, "Turn to." I have often thought since what a change there was between them and me, as I had been a companion with them and they were now to receive instructions from me and to have to obey me ; but it was done pleasantly. We went to a Southern port, and loaded and sailed and arrived in Boston, then to Portland. All hands left. The Captain and owner of the vessel came down on board early one morning and the owner seemed interested in looking about, and said to the Captain, "The vessel is looking fine." This pleased me as I had taken great pains to have everything right and in order. The Captain said to me that day, "My brother has always been with me, but left on account of sickness. He is now well and wants the situation again." I was very much disappointed but could not find fault with the Captain. He said, "I'll get you a chance in a few days." I think it was the third day that he wrote to me at Freeport to come to Portland, as he had a situation for me. I went, and he introduced me to Capt. ISTewton of the brig "Eodney" owned by 81 Capt. Asa Clapp. This was a larger vessel and carried more men. I agreed to go in this vessel, went home and got my clothing and returned the next day to join the vessel. We lay tide-nipped three days before we could get away from the wharf. In that time I was told that this Capt. Newton was the hardest man to sail with, out of Portland. I made three voyages with him, and I think it didn't take me long to ascertain that I had been told the truth. To go back to the vessel that was dismasted and repaired in New Orleans at a cost of $12,000. The draft I was looking for to pay the bills came, and I had the money. Soon all the bills for repairs came. I had written the Captain to send me a bill for his wages and board for every day the ship was repairing, which he did. I may state here that, by the marine law, a vessel that is wrecked and arrives at the port she is bound to, receives nothing for the victualling and manning. But if into some other port to repair, the owners re- cover full pay for wages and provisions. After these bills came I made a rough calculation as to how much I would get from the underwriters, and took all bills and went to Boston. I called on General Tyler, average adjuster. I don't know as there was any other marine adjuster in Boston at that time. Told him I had the bills for an adjustment, asked if he could make it out at once, which he agreed to do. I told him I wanted him to look over the bills with me ; so I opened the package ancl took out one bill,, handed it to him and asked, "Where does this go ?" So I continued handing him bills, — sometimes he would say "General average," other times "Partial loss," sometimes "To the owners." I came to the bill that I had instructed the Captain ta send to nxe for his expenses, amounting to a number of hundred dollars, asking "Where does this go ?" He replied, "Doesn't go anywheres. No business here." I said, "I want it put in the adjustment, and I want it under the head of general average." He said "It doesn't belong there and I won't put it there." I began to pick up the papers and made them into a package as they were when I entered his office. He asked what I wa9 going to do, and I answered that I was going to have the bill of the Captain's services put into the adjustment. He talked con- siderable, telling it ought not to be put in and didn't b3long there. All this I knew myself. Still I persisted that I was going to have it in. At last he said, "Well I'll put it in, but it will make the underwriters mad, and I won't present the adjustment to them." 82 I answered that I didn't want him to, but that I wanted him to write me as soon as he had it done, to which he agreed ; I left. I received a letter sooner than I expected that the adjustment was ready. I went at once to his office and he gave it to me. On looking it over I saw that he had put in the Captain's bill. He had more talk that it ought not to be there, and I answered I'd go and see them. I took it and all the bills and called on Colonel Adams, to whom I have referred before. After some little pleasant conversation I said, "1 have the adjustment, sir." When I first entered the office he asked me to have a seat. When I handed him the adjustment I moved my chair nearer to his. He began reading it over, and turned over quite a number of leaves. As he was going to turn over the next leaf, I put my finger on it. He looked up, and I said, — "Colonel, I want to talk a little before you turn that leaf." "Well, what is it ?" "Do you remember the day I came in and said I had engaged to have the sails made here, and that I was going to Xew York to buy the rigging and send all out, because it would be so much cheaper, and you approved of it, and that I asked if you had any agents in New Orleans, and your reply you made ? Now you can turn over the leaf, sir. I want to see if you are willing to pay your agent." He looked along and came to the charge for the Captain's wages and board, and said, "0, yes, yes, I see. Well, let us proceed." So he ^ent all through to the end; then hauled out a drawer of his desk, and took up a memorandum book, and said, ^'^Af ter you left here, when you were going to New York, I made an estimate of our part of the loss, — here are my figures, — and you have it over three hundred dollars less than my estimate. I will allow the charge of the Captain." I felt very much pleased, and said so, that everything was under his estimate, but added, "I am in the situation of most downeasters, short of money." He called his cashier, and handed the adjustment to the cash- ier, put his finger on the part his office was to pay, saying, "Draw a check in favor of Mr. Webster for that whole amount." This surprised me as the partial loss was not due for sixty days. Of course I thanked him and told him it was more than I expected. He had $10,000 insured on the vessel. He told me to go to the Washington office which had $10,000, and tell them about it, and show them the check I have' given you. They will do the same. Then you go to the other two offices and they will do the same. 83 I did as he said, and got the four checks. Each of these offices had $10,000 apiece. Then I took my adjustment and bills and went to pay General Tyler for making the adjustment. As I entered his office, I tried to look as sad as I could over the pleasant feelings that I had, and said, "Well, give me your bill, if you please." "Well you found it just as I said, I suppose, and came back to have the adjustment changed ?" "No, there was no change asked for. The adjustment was all satisfactory and they seemed pleased, and paid me"; and I showed him my four checks. "What," he cried, "the partial loss wasn't due for sixty days." "I know that but they were so well pleased that they gave me a check for the whole without discount." In later years I became more acquainted with Gen. Tyler, and found that he was a man often referred to in admiralty cases by insurance companies and owners of vessels, and I have gone to him myself for advice and assistance, as I knew he was well versed in admiralty cases. He made up a number of adjustments for me later. This vessel made two Atlantic voyages, then sailed from Liver- pool for Calcutta, chartered out and home for six pounds per ton. Near the longtitude of Cape of Good Hope, the Captain died, and the mate took her to Calcutta, then to London, then a voyage into the Pacific ; he loaded with guano at the Chincha Islands for London. The Captain becoming very expensive, I ordered him to take the best freight he could get in London or the east coast of England and come to the United States. This was in 1857, before there were any cables across the Atlantic. He chartered the vessel in London for Calcutta, saying that he did it before receiving my instructions. The ship had been two long voyages and was not fit to go an- other without remetalling. He had a typhoon in the Bay of Bengal ; the ship arrived in Calcutta leaking badl}^, and had to be recalked and remetalled. He wrote to me for a letter of credit for three thousand pounds. I did not dare to send it to him, as his conduct was very unsatisfactory. I procured the letter of credit from Messrs. Baring Brothers & Company and sent to their agent, Mr. Gibson, in Calcutta giving him power to manage the ship's business in Calcutta, and charter her home to the L^nited States, or England. On the receipt of the instructions and credit they sent for the Captain. He came and they told him of the power and credit invested in themselves, and instructed him to send all bills to 84 them to be paid. Also that they would charter the ship in a few days, according to the owner's instructions. Not hearing from him for three days they sent for him. He in the meantime, had chartered the ship and she was loading for Sydney, N. S. W. He got most of his freight in advance, paid thiit towards disbursing the ship, and made an agreement that he would return to Calcutta from Sydney and give the consign- ment of the ship to those parties so that they would get their pay. -Instead of doing as he had agreed he loaded for Hong Kong. When he was about to leave Hong Kong, he wrote me he couldn't get any freight for Calcutta and he had chartered for Hong Kong. He wrote the Calcutta merchant that he should come from Hong Kong to Calcutta in ballast. By his doing so, they would get a freight for the ship and earn their commission. Instead of doing as he had written me and them, he loaded in Hong Kong for Sydney, N. S. W. There were no cables in those days nor mail steamers on the Pacific or Indian Ocean. When he was loaded and ready to leave Hong Kong for Sydney, N. S. W., again he wrote he should get a cargo of horses and re- turn to Calcutta. I had no confidence in the man's promises, so sent powers of attorney to different ports, — Calcutta, Hong Kong, and Valparaiso, Chili. After he arrived at Hong Kong and discharged and loaded for Valparaiso, Chili, he wrote me that he couldn't get any freight for Calcutta, and there was nothing else to be had but this freight for Valparaiso. He ar- rived in Valparaiso. The house of Alsop & Co. there, a rich and responsible house, showed him the power of attorney they held, saying, "Now, you must work under our instructions; send all bills to us, and later we will see what can be done in chartering for the United States." The house of Alsop & Co. had full power to remove him, or if they thought it was for our interest, to let him take the ship to the States. I will state here that he remitted me nothing from Sydney to Hong Kong, nothing from Hong Kong to Sydney, and drew most of his freight in advance from Sydney to Valparaiso ; remitting me nothing. After she was discharged the house of Alsop & Co. loaded her themselves at a port north of Valparaiso with copper ore for Baltimore. x4.s the Captain had drawn about all the freight in Sydney, there was no money there belonging to the ship. Alsop & Co. disbursed her at Valparaiso, and at their branch house at her loading port, so the Captain had not any use for money to pay out anything on the ship. But still, at his loading port, he drew on me for $2,700. This was partly used up in having balls 85 and high times on board ship. Perhaps part of it he kept for himself, as she was bound for Baltimore, and he knew me well enough to know there would be a day of reckoning there. Long before it was time for her to arrive in Baltimore, I had made arrangements with the house of Jackson, Clarage & Co. to telegraph me as soon as they heard of her arrival inside the cape, and as soon as she arrived, to put a trusty watchman on board, giving him strict instructions not to allow anything to go out of the ship. CHAPTER XIV. HELIOS' ARRIVAL IN BALTIMORE ; CAPT. CARTNEY DIS- CHARGED ; I TOOK COMMAND ; A SHORT VISIT HOME. As soon as I heard of her arrival I started for Baltimore, arriv- ing in the night. As soon as Jackson, Clarage & Co.'s office was open in the morning, I was there. They said she got up in the afternoon and was entered at the Custom House, and that the Captain was going to pay off his men at their office at ten A. M. I said to Mr. Loud, "I will go up to the hotel and I want you to come up so we can be at the Custom House as soon as it is open, to introduce me to the collector." He did so, and we were at the Custom House at nine A. M., and I was introduced to the collector as owner of the ship Helios. I asked the collector to let me see the register. He handed it to me, and I opened it and showed him my name as managing owner, and said, "I want to be made Captain and have a certifi- cate made out to that effect and attached to the register." It was all done and the register put away. Then we went to the office of Jackson, Clarage & Co. The Captain was there, and appeared to be very glad to see me, little thinking that I was Cap- tain. I state here that this Capt. Cartney was with me as mate in the ship Pumgustuck, and with Capt. Pratt, mate in the same ship, and left the Pumgustuck at sea when Capt. Pratt did. Cap- tain Cartney was an A 1 mate but when he became Captain he was too smart for me, getting ahead of me in every port. The reason for his so doing was that I couldn't reach him. Soon the men came and he had their accounts made out. Mr. Loud acted as secretary, paid over the money to the men. Two of them said there was more money due them than was showed on the Captain's account. Captain said, "Stand one side and call the next." As these men were paid off and seated on the settee with the two who were not willing to settle with Captain's account, I carefully scrutinized their faces. Two of them I sat down by, and told them I was the owner and asked where they joined the ship and where they boarded, saying that probably I should want to see them, and asking them to remain in the house and come to see me if sent for the next day, to which they agreed. When all men were paid off, — officers, cook and steward, amounting to seventeen, I said to Capt. Cartney, — 87 "You have paid off all your crew, officers and men. I have no more use for you, as I am Captain of the Helios, as well as owner. I am going to make you three propositions and you may take your choice : you name the smallest sum you will take and sign a receipt releasing all claims against ship Helios and her owners." He named the amount and I told him I shouldn't accept his proposition. "Then," I said, "you can choose one of the referees, and I will choose another, and we will sign an agreement to abide by their decision. If you don't do this you can take your chances legally." By this time he began to look very different from what he did when he first met me, and he chose as his referee, one Bailey, a ship-chandler and grocer. I told him I would let him know very soon where my man was and when we could meet. I took Mr. Loud one side and said, — "I don't know a man in Baltimore that I should want on this case." He said, "I know the right man, — Mr. Gongin from N'ew York. He is a man who is well posted in all vessel business and has a ship here now, I will see if I can find him." He went and soon returned with him. I told Mr. Gongin what I wanted. He said, "I would like to accommodate you if we can get through before 11 o'clock to-night, as I want to leave then for New York." I said, "If we can get to work on it immediately after dinner, you can tell by 8 or 9 o'clock whether you will be likely to get through or not. I would very much like for you to commence it." Captain Cartney was notified to come with his referee at 2 P. M. to a private counting-room over Mr. Jackson's office. He came and Mr. Gongin was there and we began. Mr. Loud was secretary. We worked along till about 9 o'clock and Mr. Gongin said, "I have got into this, and it is interesting to me, and I want to see the end. I am satisfied we cannot get -through in time for the New York train, and I will stop over." We adjourned till the next morning at 9 o'clock. I sent out for oysters, coffee, etc., and we had a midnight supper. We began the next morning, and as we went along in the fore- noon, I sent a boy for those two sailors. They came and Capt. Cartney said, "Are you going to use those two men against me ?" I said "Yes." He well knew that he was in a tight place, and said, "I didn't think that of you." 88 I examined the men myself, as to the time they came on board the ship and up to the time they were discharged. In many cases they showed the Captain's dishonesty. We went on with the case till about 4 P. M., then left the case with the referees, and departed, leaving them and the secretary. As I went down stairs I met my friend Louis Walsh from New York. We had been business friends from my first going to New York as master. He knew how Cartney had treated me, and knew the ship was in Baltimore, and had stopped over on his way from Washington to New York to see me. Just at that time the secretary came down and went to the oiBce after paper. On his return he whispered to me "You have got your case." My friend Mr. Walsh said, "They will bring in for you to pay him something so as to get him to sign the receipt. Do be particular that the receipt is right." I had all confidence in Mr. Walsh, and knew he was thoroughly acquainted with all vessel business. I said, "Come in and write the receipt for me." He did, leaving a blank for the amount to be decided. I said, "Ijet the secretary copy this off and fill in the amount." Then he left for New York, We had the decision that night and the very small amount was paid over and the receipt signed. So ends my business acquaint- ance with Capt. Cartney after being cheated out of a good many thousand dollars. When I received the draft he drew on me from Chili for $2,700, I did not have that amount of money. Mr. Baker who owned most half of the ship had died and the draft came to me. I re- quested the man to whom the draft came for collection to let it lay till the next day without protest, and he did. I saw him and said I was going to New York in the morning and would call and see those people who sent the draft to him, and I wanted him to send it back without expense, which he said he would do. The next morning I was in New York in Mr. Walsh's counting- room when he came in. He asked where the ship Helios was, how much freight she had, etc. I told him I had another draft from the Captain of $2,700 payable in ten days, that I had not the money to pay it, and as Mr. Baker was dead, I had to look out for the whole thing myself. "I have friends who will help me get this money from the banks, but when it becomes due I can't meet it, for the ship won't be home, and I have come on here to see you, to see what you will do." 89 a ii^ ay ii^ "I'll let you have the money/' he said. "At what terms ?" 'At the regular interest." 'Will you charge me for advancing ?" "No." 'What security do you want ?" 'We'll charge it to you on our books and you may go home." The Helios was loaded with copper ore. On account of the Civil war it was not possible to get any coal from Virginia for the smelting works, and they paid me a good freight on the cop- per to take it to Liverpool. This was a very good thing for the ship, as we did not have to discharge her or load her, saving ex- pense of some eight hundred to one thousand dollars. I telegraphed to my wife in Yarmouth that I should be home to spend but one night, as I was going to Liverpool, and if she would like to go she must get ready. I arrived home at 2 P. M. She had not received the telegram as the wires were cut. She at once said she would be ready for the train at seven the next morning. I had much business to do, so put all my business into the hands of an attorney. We didn't want any one to know it, fearing that our time for getting ready would be taken up by callers. But our little boy George who was given to us when three years old by my wife's widowed sister, ran out and told the other boys "We are all going away to Liverpool in the morning," and the whole evening was taken up with callers. I had called on B. Freeman, Esq., and requested him to come to my house at ten o'clock P. M., as I was going away and wanted to make him my attorney. He came, but there were so many others, we could not get to business before eleven. I had many things to explain to him, as I was agent for two ships and had other business. Probably we finished and he left between twelve and one. We finished our packing and retired for a short nap. Were up early and had breakfast. The team came, and we left with the table set and fire burning in the dining-room. We arrived in Baltimore and were ready for sea in a. lew days. On going down the Chesapeake Bay found all the buoys on the different shoals removed by the rebels, but succeeded in getting out without trouble from any source. In nineteen days we ar- rived in Liverpool. I discharged the cargo of copper ore, re- mitted the money and paid up my friend Mr. Walsh, and loaded with salt for Wyborg in Finland. I arrived, discharged and loaded deals for Bordeaux in France. Arrived there, I chartered for San Francisco. 90 A new consul had been sent to Bordeaux from the United States about the time I arrived, and as he was a stranger in a strange country I invited him and his wife on board to dine, and made quite extensive preparations for them, — flags flying in honor of him, etc. I had a good cook, and a good stewardess The stewardess was well dressed for one in her position. Before we finished dinner I noticed the consul eyeing her sharply at odd times. But a few days after this, my stewardess was missing, and I heard she was living with the U. S. Consul. I called one morning at the consul's office for letters, and he was in his private office. He called me in, and handed me two orders, saying, "I would like for you to pay them." I returned them and said I should not. He replied "Your ship shan't leave port till you do it." I said "I will not do it, and I think the U. S. Consul demeans himself very much in undertaking to collect bills that the sailors owe that girl." I left, he angry, and I not pleasant. When I went to the office it was only for letters. About this time the chief mate had deserted from the vessel. Some four days later I received a letter from the consul to appear before him the next day at ten A. M. My wife felt very unhappy when I received this letter, fearing that I might say something in anger. I told her she need not be alarmed, for I had had a night to think of it. Next morning I went to my broker's office, and one Captain Crosby, master of a big ship belonging to Thomaston, was there. I said "I have a summons to appear before the consul at ten o'clock and I would like for you to go with me." "I'll go with pleasure," he said. As I entered the consul's private office, I saw this deserter sitting in the corner, and the consul at the table reading from a large book. I seated myself by the table, and took out my watch, and said, "Mr. Davidson, I had a summons from you to appear before ten o'clock this morning. The time has arrived and I am here." He said to Capt. Crosby, "I have some private business with Capt. Webster, perhaps you had better retire." I said "I invited him to come and I want him present." The consul said "I presume you know the law regarding sailors." I answered "No, I have never studied law." He read from the book a few lines. I said "You needn't read any further, sir, I'll tell you what 91 comes next; if a man deserts from a vessel, the Captain is to point him out to the U. S. Consul, and he is to arrest him and put him on board/' I turned to the deserter and said, "This man has deserted from my ship. I have shown him to you, and done my duty ; you put him on board my ship again and do your duty/' He looked very much surprised, and said "Are you going to take him on board and reinstate him as chief mate, or will you disrate him?'' "I shan't answer you that question, but I'll assure you, he'll earn his money, and on our return to the United States, if he enters a complaint, I shall have to answer to our government/' He turned to Captain Crosby and asked, "Can he disrate him ?" Capt. Crosby's reply was, "He is master of his own ship/' Then the consul said, "I think you better fix it up between you/' "I have nothing to fix up; he has deserted from my ship; I have shown him to you and done my duty. You do your duty, and put him on board. If this is all you summoned me for, I will leave." Capt. Crosby and I left the office with' him and the deserter. I used to hear from the consul quite often, — the threats he made, and that my ship shouldn't leave port. One morning one Capt. Chandler belonging to Yarmouth, who had sailed with me years past as second mate and then chief mate, and was now commanding a fine vessel in port, came from the consul's office to me and said : "I wish you would go and pay him those two bills, for I am satisfied he will get you into trouble if he can." I said, "Then you think I better do it ?" "I think that will be the easiest way out of it." I replied, "I shall not do it." There was another American Captain in port. Captain Blanch- ard from the eastern part of our state. As he and the U. S. Consul agreed in politics, he was much with him. One morning he came to me and said, "The TJ. S. Consul and I have disagreed. He is continually abusing and threatening you, so much so that I could stand it no longer, and have told him how ungentlemanly it is to abuse and threaten a man behind his back." From this time I always considered Capt. Blanchard a strong friend of mine, and he and his wife have come up from Eastern Maine to make me a visit in Portland for days. 92 About this time I saw the stewardess the consul had taken from me in a clothing store. I didn't feel right towards her for the way she left my ship. She had told my wife or some one else that she couldn't stand the consul's conduct and left him. Soon afterwards she took pains to see me and said, "You will be in want of men soon. I can get them for you," and she did procure me a whole crew. CHAPTER XV. LEAVE BORDEAUX FOR SAN FRANCISCO. My ship was loaded, my business done, and I cleared from the Custom House. I went to the consul's for the vessel's register. It was handed to me without any allusion to the past, and the last I have heard of this U. S. Consul was through my friend Capt. Blanchard, who had seen him drunk on a cotton bale on the levee at New Orleans. So he must have been reduced low. I will tell here an anecdote about George. When I was in Liverpool he was very anxious for a pistol and I bought him a six shooter. He was about sixteen. We went to Wyborg and Bordeaux. One Sunday at Bordeaux, all the men had liberty to go on shore, and both mates also, which I was unwise to allow. In the first of the evening the men all returned, probably some of them more or less drunk. They went to the galley for their supper. I heard loud talk and opened the cabin door. It was so dark I could not see but one man whose voice I knew well ; I called him by name and said, "Come this way." As I stood in th entry way, he came along, not .thinking what I wanted. I put my hand on him and he came inside. Being lighted the men could see. I heard one of them say, "Now let's go and tear the old man's house down." I ushered the sailor into the cabin and told him to sit down and not to attempt to come out. Mrs. Webster was sitting there, cool and collected as she always was in any case where one would usually be excited. I left the cabin, shutting the door, and just at that time there was the whole crew, some twelve or fourteen, before me. They said, "Let that man out !" "No, you can't have that man. Go forward !" Just at that moment George jumped from the poop to my side, revolver in hand, and said, "Father, I am good for six of them." The men left and went for their supper. Order was restored, and I returned to the cabin to see the situation of my guest. Mrs. Webster and he sat there, cool, and apparently satisfied, Mrs. Webster with her guest, he with his hostess. It was a custom of mine, the latter part of my commanding ship, when I had to deal with a saucy or unruly sailor to take him into the cabin. If bad weather to shut him up with Mrs. 94 Webster. After being there a reasonable time I never knew a case but that the man promised good fashions and went off seem- ingly pleased. While I was loading, certain parties applied for a passage for six, and if I took them I would have a very good rate for their passage, and would get ninety tons of cargo. They were two women, two girls, and two men. Not having sufficient accommodations for them I concluded to dispense with a second mate and use his room for them, thinking that with the carpenter, whom I liked, and George and myself, between us three, we could do the duty of second mate. I had a chief mate who was previously second mate on a Thomaston ship, highly recommended by his Captain. All things went on pleasantly until I got into bad weather south of the La Plata river, then I began to discover signs of insanity in the mate. The more bad weather we had the greater the insanity. Some- times it was so bad he was locked in his room. He did no duty at all. One morning the steward said to me "Mr. Connor, the mate, says he is going on shore, and he has his things all out on deck packing.'' I said, "Don't you speak to him nor take any notice of him whatever." Perhaps in two or three hours he put his things all back in his room, went in himself, and was quiet. I will relate one circumstance off the Cape. It is always ex- pected to find more or less stormy weather and heavy gales in going around Cape Horn, so before we get there we change our sails, — take off the poor ones, and put on the newest and strongest canvas we have. One afternoon it was blowing a gale of wind from the west with heavy rolling Cape Horn seas. The ship was under three close reefed topsails, reefed canvas, Jib and spanker. The gale increased very suddenly and came with a heavy squall accompanied by heavy snow. It was evident we must get sail off the ship or we should lose it and perhaps some of the spars. So first we hauled up the reefed mainsail, that was quite snug as we had extra spilling lines around it, which are lines to haul snug to the yard to keep the wind out of it so it shall not blow away before it can be furled. ISText we clewed up the foretopsail, and then it was necessary to get the inner jib in. I was with the men encouraging them, but it seemed almost as if the spars would be blown out of the ship. In getting the inner jib in I had hold of the down-haul with the men. A heavy sea came along over the ship's bow. I think she plunged into it. 95 with her bow wholly under water. We held on the down-haul ; if we hadn't had hold of that or some other strong rope, we should all have been washed away. Then I sent them up to furl the foretopsail, fearing it might blow away, although it was hauled up snug with spilling lines. The men were all on the yard for some time making no progress towards furling the sail. It blew so hard I couldn't make them hear, so I sent the steward up to tell them all to come down. I went into the cabin and returned with a glass and a bottle of good brandy. I told the steward to call the men all aft. There was one man older than the rest, a good sailor and a valuable man to me in the situation I was in, — without officers. As I handed him the glass with the brandy in it, he swallowed it, passed back the glass, and said, "Captain, that topsail must be saved." "Then go and do it, and be quick." It was astonishing how quickly that sail was furled. Perhaps that new topsail was saved by one bottle of brandy. I will men- tion here that there was no Maine law off Cape Horn. Then the next sail was the mainsail that was hauled up snug, all blown away, and not enough left to furl. The gale still con- tinued, and the ship was under a close reefed maintopsail and reefed foresail. She plunged into these heavy seas as if strug- gling for life. This was the eleventh of June, 1862. The next day it moderated some, and we bent another main- sail. We turned one reef out of the topsail, striving to do all we could not be driven eastward. The parrel (this is what confines the yard to the topmast, and slips up and down on the topmast, as the yard is hoisted up and lowered down) of the maintopsail yard was carried away. To repair this temporarily so as to set the maintopsail again would be a difficult job in a com^mon gale of wind, but now when blowing almost a tornado, with snow, it was almost impossible ; but it had to be done, and as always with me, there was no such word as "can't" on shipboard. It took some time and I was there during the most of it with the sailor who had said the topsail must be saved, and we fixed it, and' set a close reefed topsail before noon. It was repaired so well that it lasted us to San Francisco. Soon after there was a change in wind and weather, and we got far enough west to get around the Cape. The breezes were strong so we made the north fast. We soon got into good weather and began to think about having the ship look nice to enter port. The mate did not improve at all, so I selected four men, and made one captain of the bowsprit, one of the foremast, one of the 96 mainmast, and one of the mizzenmast. The ratlines on all the shrouds were renewed and everything else done to rigging above the rail that was necessary. As we went further north into fine weather, everything was repainted on the deck, — houses, bulwarks, etc., decks thoroughly holystoned and oiled. The outside was rubbed over with lamp- black and oil, so she looked like new. For about the three years I was in the ship we never used a paint brush on the out- side for the black. We would put a very little lampblack into oil, take a wad of oakum and rub it over and make it look bright as new. Paint used this way would never get on body enough to blister. While this performance w^as going on, a stage was over the side, and two men had been rubbing with wads of oakum. I looked over to see how they were getting along. One stopped and looked at his hands, as black as a negro's, and said to his com- panion, "Tom, I hope the next ship you and I get aboard of they won't be so damned poor but that they can find us a paint brush." Perhaps he never knew that I heard his remark. Everything went on pleasantly and all seemed interested to have the ship look nice. We arrived in San Francisco with an appearance that was to my entire satisfaction, and 1 think every sailor felt proud of the ship. It was not an uncommon thing for the crew, after being discharged, to come down with other sailors to look at the vessel. One Sunday morning when everything was quiet, two sailors were walking on the wharf and stopped to look the ship over. One said, "This is the ship that came in without any mates." We discharged our cargo, collected the freight amounting to about fifteen thousand dollars in gold. Gold then was worth over two hundred per cent, making this freight over thirty thous- and dollars. We loaded for Melbourne with grain, flour and oats. This freight was procured through a ship broker. I had never seen the shipper till the ship was loaded and in the stream. It was a very busy day with me, getting business finished ; I called at the shipper's office and asked if bills of lading were ready for ship Helios. I was asked into the private office of the shipper, and he said, "Are you Captain of ship Helios ?" I replied "I am." He said, "Here I have chartered a ship, she is loaded and in the stream and I have never seen the Captain. I have been wonder- ing what he looked like." 97 I said, "He's before you, you can take a look at him, but don't look long for I am in a great hurry. Are the bills of lading ready ?" He said, "When are you going to sea ?" I answered "This P. M. if you give me $50 to pay the tug- boat." He said, "I will." I signed bills of lading, and took mine and the fifty dollars and left well pleased. In forty-two days I was in Melbourne, although the ship was loaded deep to within twenty-one feet of water. It was a very good passage, and the Yankee ship that came from San Francisco to Melbourne in forty-three days re- ceived a great many puffs in the papers. I discharged, collected the freight and remitted from this freight fourteen thousand three hundred dollars; seventy-three, days from the time I chartered in San Francisco, I had collected the freight and remitted. I then engaged to take passengers for Hong Kong, fifteen dollars a head, everything found except wood and water, berths were to be put up between decks, and a galley or kitchen on deck. When I loaded in San Francisco, the ship had to be sealed up with lumber so as to keep the dry cargo from being damaged. To do this, I bought good lumber and used it without cutting for sealing. I made a bargain with a man to fit the ship for passen- gers in Melbourne, put up all the berths, arrange for cooking, furnish all the water casks, and fit the ship in every way so she would pass survey, — all for a fixed amount. He was to give me so much a thousand feet for all my lumber. Eemember that this lumsber had already accomplished its purpose in sealing the ship. When I came to settle with the man who had fitted the ship in Melbourne, he owed me quite a small amount. I had my com- plement of Chinese passengers and sailed for Hong Kong. I got up where I ought to have strong southeast trades and the vessel should have been making two hundred forty miles a day but we lay for days almost becalmed with light* baffling winds and made but little distance. One pleasant morning when I came up with very light airs, only enough for the ship to have steerage way, one of the 'tween deck passengers came aft with an inter- preter and asked the privilege to come aft to say "Joss" for a fair wind. I asked how many would take part in the ceremony and he said three. The reason for my question wa^^that passengers that are cla.ssed as 'tween deck passengers are not allowed aft, but the one who had come and made the request had been pointed out to me as a 98 rich man, and from what I had seen of his dress and appearance, he seemed far above the class of passengers he was with. Aftei his request was granted, I went to the cabin and told Mrs. Web- ster what was to be done, and wanted her to come up. In a very short time the three came, spread their white cloth on deck, and put a cooked chicken, bottle of wine, and abundance of joss-papei upon it. The three knelt down over their offering, saying some- thing in their language and often bowing their heads to the deck. After rising they cut the chicken into portions. All three stood up, saying something in their language, a piece of the chicken was thrown into the sea, and they beckoned with their hands in the direction from which they wished' the wind to blow. Then they handed Mrs. Webster and myself a piece of the chicken. Then they poured the wine into glasses, knelt again, and repeated something, bowing to the deck. When through with their prayer they poured the contents of one glass of wine over the ship's stern praying and becj^oning as before. They then handed Mrs. Web- ster and myself some of the wine, then lighted large bunches of the joss-paper, making quite a torch, and then threw it over the ship's stern, praying and beckoning as before. This was continued until all the joss-paper was burned. Then they gathered up the fragments and the white cloth, shook hands with Mrs. Webster and myself, — thanking me through the in- terpreter for the privilege I had allowed, — and went away pleased. ^ Strange as it may seem, before twelve o'clock at noon, the ship was going some eight or ten miles an hour with a fine fair wind. Doubtless the Chinamen thought their saying Joss had brought the wind. Everything continued pleasant. I had quite a number of hogs and sheep on board and used tc have a butchering day once a week. The meat was generally all spoken for before butchering day by the Chinamen, and the steward took the names of all who applied and the amounts asked for. Butchering day there was a regular meat stall arranged. The steward took his book and called the first name, and when the man appeared the steward weighed out the amount engaged, gave it to him and took his money ; and so through the list of applicants. There was a portion reserved for ourselves and the balance, if any, was quickly applied for by the passengers. So things went on until we arrived in Hong Kong. CHAPTER XVI. ARRIVAL AT HONG KONG. We came to anchor outside the fleet in the harbor of Hong Kong one night about eleven o'clock. A Chinaman came to me with an interpreter stating that three wanted to go ashore to get things, as they wanted to say Joss for good luck to the ship before thev left her. In the morning we were warping the ship up in amongst the others when Captain Colby, master of ship Washington, came on board and offered to go with me and show me the parties to whom I had letters of introduction. I told the mate of the ship the Chinamen would say Joss, and for him not to interfere with them but let them have a good time, but to be sure and keep a sharp look-out while the paper was burning that nothing took fire. I went on shore, and called on two parties to whom I had let- ters of introduction. At the third place, the counting-room was up stairs, and there were doors leading out on the verandas. Captain Colby and others were sitting out there, while I was in- side with the head man of the house, to whom I had delivered my letter. Captain Colby called out, "Webster, your ship is on fire.'* As I went on to the piazza she was so completely covered with smoke that only part of the hull was discernible, and I surely thought Colby was right. I was so completely surprised that my strength left me and I sank on a settee. One of the clerks came with water and as I revived the Chinese clerk said in good En- glish, "Your ship is not on fire. The Chinamen are saying Joss. She will be chartered before night." I have no doubt Captain Colby concluded he was carrying a joke too far; but my ship was chartered before I left the office, for twelve thousand dollars in gold for San Francisco. The cargo was in the lower hold, and Chinese passengers between decks. The Chinese found everything. As my ship was all fitted for passengers, I rented out all thd water-casks, berths, and other fittings, which paid me a great deal more than I paid for my lumber in San Francisco. As I was chartered by the lump sum I didn't want to have an excess of passengers, as there was a large fine for every one over 100 the number the ship was entitled to carry. Every one is entitled to fourteen superficial feet of the deck. They have a surveyor to measure the ships to see how many passengers can be taken. As my ship was chartered by the lump sum they wanted to put in all they could. I called on the surveyor and told him I would like to be on board when he came to measure the ship, and he answered it would make no diffenence whether I was there or not. But he did agree to let me know. A few days afterwards, I had been on shore, and on returning to the ship was informed that the sur- veyor had been on board and measured for passengers, and gave me a piece of paper which contained the surveyor's estimate. At a glance I saw that he had largely overestimated the number al- lowed by American law. The surveyor handed his certificate in to the merchant and when I went to the charterer's office the certificate was handed me. I looked at it and told the merchant there was a mistake, that she did not have room for that number of passengers and I would have her measured over again. I went to the surveyor and told him I was surprised that he had not given notice of his intended visit, and he replied again "0, that will make no difference." I said, "There is a mistake, sir, and I want you to measure again; I know the vessel has not as many superficial feet in her deck as you have given, and if you will go on board and show me how you get it I will pay you your fee for measuring a second time. If you can't show me, I shan't expect you to charge me anything." "0," he said, "there's no mistake. It's an every day occur- rence with me to measure ships, and it's all right." I said it was not, and that if he would not go again, I should protest against his measurement. I think that he began to see that I was in earnest, and agreed to come the next day. I received him politely, but soon saw that he was out of sorts. We went between decks, he with his man to hold the tape, and I with my mate and paper for memorandum. He took the length over the top of the breast-hooks about four feet from deck. I said, "The American law says the deck, and you are taking the length some three feet longer than the deck." He replied, "This is my way." I said to the mate, "Put down that length and write under it, 'iess three feet.' " Then he took the width on top of the lock-streak. I said. 101 "You are getting one and a half feet more width than the deck; gives." He replied as before, and prepared to leave. "Look here/' I said, "you haven't taken out for the masts, nor pump well, nor chain locker." "0, 1 never do anything for that." I replied "The United States law does, and it has to be done in this case." He seemed very cross and ungentlemanly all this time. I in- vited him into the cabin, introduced him to Mrs. Webster, and called the steward for cakes and wine. As he drank wine and talked with Mrs. Webster he seemed to become more genial. I said, "Now let's figure up. I'll take your dimensions first, mine afterward." I figured up by his dividing by fourteen and figured the num- ber of passengers. After some time he ended his work and asked how much I made of it. "Haven't you got her figured out yet?" "No, but let me look at yours." He looked it over, and said "Why you are right. I'll have another certificate made out, and take the other one away." After a few days I called at the merchant's to see the new certificate. If changed, it was precisely like the other. I said to the merchant, "It is not right, and I cannot take that number of passengers. You and I will go aboard and measure the ship and you will be satisfied yourself." He said, "There must be some arrangement for them to go, for they are in families and cannot be separated." He and I went to the ship. As we went on deck he said, "Can't there be a temporary house put here to hold fifteen or twenty-five ?" So we measured out how a house could be put on, and he said, "I will pay all the expense of this house." "Yes, but I didn't charter my ship to you to take a deck load of passengers. How much will you give me ?" We settled at fifteen dollars per head for the passengers, — about thirty I think, and there were quite a number left. I said I would add eight to my crew list at the same price. Then there were three or four left, and I agreed to take them in the cabin. This all amounted to over six hundred dollars. As I had some little time before the cargo was coming and the ship was not coppered up so high as I wanted, I bought metal of a Chinaman for about two thirds price and we made a stage from 102 our own spars on board. I had no crew on board but the mates, two boys and the carpenter. We calked the seams, and put on the metal ourselves, thus saving quite a sum of money. After the ship was loaded, and the passengers on board, I wanted to get clear of the fleet so as to get under way the next morning. It was blowing strong and raining, and there were no tug-boats, I ran a hauser from my ship to another one, with whose Captain I was acquainted, calculating that when I hove up my anchors the ship would drift down, the hauser became taut and she would swing round. As soon as the anchors were off the bot- tom, she swung round side ways to the wind. When the stern hauser became taut, it parted. The jibs being all ready, they were hoisted and she paid off before the wind. We ran down through the fleet and came to anchor, and my mind was very much relieved. The Captain of the Boston ship sent me my hauser, and I went back on shore to close up my business and be ready for sea the next morning. After getting through, and being ready to go on board I went to the ship chandler's store for letters. This store was a resort for all American masters. One had lately come down from Shanghai in a very fine ship. Another from Sydney, IS". S. W. I had never seen these two men before, and they were there in conversation with the other Captains. One of them said, "Did you see that Yankee ship run down through the fleet this morning ? It required a great deal of nerve to do that." The other one, also a stranger to me, said, "Yes. That was the man who wanted to copper his ship up higher and was too mean to hire a carpenter or even a carpenter's stage, but put some spare spars overboard and made their own stage and did their own work." All present knew me except those two. I turned to them, "I am the man that ran the Yankee ship down through the fleet, and I am the man who was too mean to hire a carpenter or even a carpenters stage, but made my own stage, and with the assistance of my two mates, carpenter, and two boys, all the crew I had, we calked the seams, put on the metal, and got a nice water line. All this was done without paying out a dollar, and I feel proud of the job. Do you think any one of you could put a water line round a ship when she lays afloat ?" As my business was all done, the boat was waiting to take me aboard, I shook hands with all my friends and the two new Capt- ains, and bade good-by and went on board. 103 The mate told me as soon as I arrived that the passengers be- tween decks had had a terrible fight. * I inquired into it through an interpreter and found we had different tribes on board and the tribes were at war. They never should have been put on board on this account. Next morning we proceeded to sea. When we were well out of the harbor, we reached a large is- land, and the pilot begged to be allowed to leave ^he ship as he didn't want to go by that island, because he said the biggest devil in China was on that island. I let the superstitious pilot leave at once. As I passed by I didn't see either devils or inhabitants. When the Chinamen came to get dinner there was another gen- eral fight, so that we had to interfere and separate them. This continued every time they came for their meals; the place was built up separate from the cook's galley. I soon had things arranged so that when their meals were ready, before they were called for it I had a guard, consisting of one mate and two sailors. Through this precaution we had no more fighting at meals. About the second or third morning out it was rainy and driz- zling. I had a bridge made from the temporary house that was put on to the forward house, perhaps some eighteen or twenty feet, so that I could go from the after to the forward part of the ship without going on deck at all. This rainy morning I had come on deck, and walked over the top of the houses on to the bridge. They were through washing the decks down, and one sailor was sweeping the water out to let it run out of the scup- pers. As a Chinaman came along he slapped him with the wet corn broom. I jumped from the bridge and had that sailor by the cellar much to his surprise. I reproved him and told him his offense could not be repeated, for it was from these Chinamen I received the money and paid his wages, and they must be prop- erly treated. My interpreter must have overheard and repeated it to the Chinamen, for he afterwards told me how pleased they were. Now we had things arranged so that they ate without fight- ing and everything was quiet. But one pleasant forenoon the chief mate came and said, "They are fighting between decks, and I fear they will kill one another." I went to the main hatch at once where there were wide steps to go down, and went down a few steps, so that I could look in. There seemed to be a general battle. Billets of wood, earthen pots, anything they could lay their hands on, were flying about. One Chinaman near the bottom of the steps, was reaching over 104 another one, and beating a Chinaman with a billet of wood. It was not safe to go down among them. I said to the chief mate ^^Give me your hand.^' He did and I said, "i^ow mind you don't let go." I went down a few steps further, reached over one or two Chin- amen and caught hold of the pig-tail of the man who was beat- ing the other with the billet of wood, and wound it two or three times around my hand. It was doubtless a surprise to him since he did not know I was anywhere around. I said to the mate "Haul quick,'^ and the Chinaman soon discovered that something had him. I expect he thought it was a Chinese devil till he reached the deck and could see. My interpreter stood there, as usual when needed, and I said to take the man clean aft of the after house. The second mate and one man led him off. I soon followed with my interpreter. I told him to sit down on deck. "These men are going to stay with you, and if you attempt to get away you may be hurt." He promised through the interpreter that he would not. Then I returned 'tween decks. Everything seemed quiet. This time I had no fear of going down. I told them that I was there to see how many, and how much they were hurt. The first one I found was the one this Chinaman was beating with a piece of wood. He was ordered on deck. A few others who were slightly wounded also, and all were taken aft to the forward part of the cabin. The Chinamen -^ere not allowed in all parts of the ship. A line was stretched across the deck, and they could not pass it. After a few days the line was taken away, as was the case this morning. But when we had the prisoner and wounded China-- man aft, the line was again put up. I put the wounded Chinaman on a stool, steward brought water and sponge, and I washed the blood off, and found one very bad wound over the eye and other minor ones on the head. I went to the medicine chest and got plaster, needle and thread, bor- rowed Mrs. Webster's scissors and sewed up the bad wound, draw- ing it together. Then cut away the hair from his other wounds, and drew them together with sticking plaster, and said that wa^ all I could do, and he would soon be all right. The others were easily treated with sticking plaster. While this was going on, the other Chinamen came aft as far as they could to the line, and watched operations. The wounded ones were told to leave, and they were soon the other side of the rope. I went to the cabin to wash and get rid 105 of the Chinese blood on my hands, then went aft to the prisoner. lie said that if I would let him go without punishment there should be no more fighting aboard ship. After some talk and i'dv'ce I let him go. As he promised there was no more fighting, and everything was pleasant until we arrived. When my ship left San Francisco for Hong Kong she had her full number of passengers and, although there was another ship on for Hong Kong, she had very few till mine had the whole number she cou]d carry engaged. I believe this was owing to the reports of the Chinamen who came from Hong Kong, who acted as brokers for m}'^ ship among the other Chinamen. I sold the watercasks I bought in Melbourne for more than enough to pay for the lumber I had bought before going to Melbourne. So ends my speculation with the lumber, — more than paid for it in Melbourne, — more than paid for it in Hong Kong, more than received first cost by sale of watercasks. CHAPTEE XVII. AT kodiak; my return home, and life on shore. The Hong Kong business being a little slack, I made a voyage up to the island of Kodiak. Took a cargo of ice here for San Francisco, most of the cakes more than two feet thick. It was here our boy George died after a sickness of three days. Very few here could speak English. I had a doctor who was a sur- geon in the Kussian army. As he could not speak English he had his assistant, and when he left the ship he left the assistant, so that one of them was with him constantly. We feel as though everything was done for him that could be done. He realized his sickness, took leave of us all, even of his dog of which he was very fond. When the dog put his head up to him over the edge of the bed he put his hand on his head arid said "Good-by, Jip." He said to me, "Tell me you won't leave me up here.'^ I prom- ised I would not. When the time came he died peacefully, con- scious to the last. I kept him on board my ship twenty-one days, stored away between decks in the ice. When we arrived at San Francisco had him embalmed' and put in a lead coffin, and to make doubly sure, filled it with liquor and put it into a box. One Captain Frank Delano of Bath, an accquaintance of mine and friend of George, took him round Cape Horn to New York for me, and he now lies in Evergreen Cemetery. After I arrived in San Francisco from Kodiak, loaded ship for Hong Kong, and put the chief mate, David Pratt of Yar- mouth, in command. I came home down to Panama in a steamer, crossed the Isthmus taking steamer at Aspinwall for New York. There was no overland railroad. After my return I bought fifteen thirty-seconds more of the ship. I then owned all but one sixteenth. She made one voyage to China and then I sold her for more than double what 1 paid for my part eight months before. While I was in command of her, she made dividends enough to pay the debt of sixteen thousand dollars and about as much as she cost when new. This was in 1864. In this year J. ended my life as master mariner. On my return went to my house in Yarmouth, just at dusk, and found a good fire in the dining room and the table set for supper. It was nearly three years before this that we got up from the > J 3 > 'c » « 3 3 3 3 • 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 O i? 3 3 3 ^ 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 •333 3 3 3 3 > ^ 107 breakfast table, leaving the table set, fire burning, and took train for Baltimore. This was not the same fire we found on our return nor the same food on the table, but my wife's sister had opened the house and made everything ready to receive us. In February, 1864, I bought the house where I now live, 296 Spring Street, and sold all my property in Yarmouth at auction, moving here the 30th day of March, 1864. In the fall of 1864 I contracted to have a brig built for me in Yarmouth. In January I was going out on the car, and fell in with an acquaintance William Chase, a West India merchant of Portland. He had loaded vessels for me for the West Indies a number of times, so I thought I knew him well. I said, "I am going to build a vessel this winter of about four hundred fifty tons. I want you to load her in the spring for Cuba." He agreed to do it, and asked "What time will she be done?" "I'll bring her to Portland the second day of April, and I con- sider that you have chartered her." "Yes, if you get her to Portland at that time. How far along is she ?" "The men are in the woods cutting her frame." He rather smiled at the idea that I would be ready to build her and get her to Portland that time. On the first day of April I went into Mr. Chase's counting- room and asked him where he wanted the vessel I chartered him in January to lay. He asked "Have you built a vessel since we talked in January ?" "Yes, and I shall bring her to Portland to-morrow, on the second day of April as I agreed." He told me where to put her on Widgery's wharf. About three o'clock I came down in the brig towed by a tug- boat. As we came to the wharf I leaped over to take the fast. Mr. Chase was there and- said, "I have come down to see what kind of a looking thing you have built in ninety days." I said, "I am very anxious for you to give me the cargo so I may load her quickly for I want to get her to Cuba early enough for return cargo." He said he would give to us as fast as we could take it in. I engaged a mate, wrote to New York for the man that I had engaged to go master, and who was then mate. I think he ar- rived Friday. The next Monday morning the cargo was all in except a deck-load of hogsheads, and I had told them how many liogsheads we would take so they could make out the bill of lad- ing. 108 . I took the Captain, named Walter Swett, of Falmouth, to Mr. Chase's counting-room, and asked if the bills of lading were ready. He gave them to me and I looked them over, took them to Mr. Chase, and said, "Mr. Chase, is this the customary rate of freight now?" "Yes, it is full rate." I handed them to the Captain, and told him to sign them. Mr. Chase said, "When will the brig sail ?" "Three o'clock this afternoon." "Why, you haven't the deck-load, have you ?" "Xo, but I will have it on." I returned to the brig, and the stevedores were putting the deck-load on, riggers bending the sails, water-boat along side putting in water, and two carpenters on board iinishing up some little jobs. The first thing after dinner, the deck-load all being on, I told the rigger that we must get her to the end of the wharf and have some sails set by three o'clock. I went to the Custom House with the Captain, then to the Spanish Consul for a bill of health, and (Jrove down to the vessel in my wagon with the Captain be- fore three o'clock. The stevedores had just about finished lash- ing the deck-load' down, the riggers had sail on the vessel, and I said to the Captain, — . "Now you can go aboard and be off at once." The stevedores jumped ashore, the riggers and carpenters fol- lowed suit. We cast off the fast and she sailed away with a fine northwest wind. One of the carpenters who came ashore was John Coombs from Yarmouth. He commenced work on her at the very be- ginning and when he left her and she left the wharf he had just made cut ninety days. Before this I had sold some of this vessel to my friends: one sixteenth to William E. Gould, cashier First National Bank, Portland, and named her Emma for his wife. This vessel was most of the time in the West India business, with also a few voyages to Buenos Ayres, and when she was twenty-four years old, was condemned and sold' in Mobile. When 1 wound up her affairs, it showed that she had been quite a prosperous vessel. This vessel was ended in April, 1888. I began another one immediately of a little less than five hun- d'red tons. She was finished, loaded and away in November for Cuba. Sold one thirty-second to a young man named Captain Frank White, a temperate, capable man, and quite a driver. He made quite a number of successful voyages to Cuba, Europe and 109 Buenos Ayres. She continued a fortunate vessel, by name Agenora, till 1876 and was then commanded by a young man named Samuel Seabury of Yarmouth. She left New York bound to Cuba, and never arrived. In 1878 I began another larger vessel, and called it the Charles Fobes. She was launched in September, loaded and sailed for Buenos Ayres in command of Captain Walter Swett of Falmouth, formerly master of the Emma. He owned one thirty-second. She continued in the Atlantic trade for about seven years. Then she went long voyages to East Indies, Australia, and New Zealand. She made one passage to New Zealand in ninety- three d'ays, the quickest passage I have ever had made, although I have had five vessels in that trade and this was the dullest sailing one of all. On a passage to Callao, off Cape Horn, she was somewhat damaged, and put into Falkland Islands. Her bills of repairing were not only very high but dishonest. Captain put a bot- tomry bond upon the vessel for the whole amount bearing thirty- five per cent interest. We didn't choose to pay the bottomry, and she was sold by the United States marshal to pay the debt. She ended showing a very good record. The next vessel built was the bark Itonus about eight hun- dred tons, begun in 1869. In September, of 1870, she was Jaunched all rigged, went to Boston and loaded for Liverpool in command of Captain A. W. Smart, formerly master of brig Emma. He owned a small piece of her. Captain Smart made a number of successful voyages ; I think he remained in her some four years. Then Captain George M. Buckman of Falmouth took coijimand. She continued making successful voyages und'er Captain Buckman for several years ; then he left her for a voyage and the mate. Captain Storer, had command and made a success- ful voyage to Australia and around the world. Captain Buck- man wishing to stay at home another voyage Captain Storer re- mained in her. He sailed for Australia then for West Coast South America, loaded nitrate for New York, and never arrived. Captain Storer was a smart driving man, and we always sup- posed he came in collision with an iceberg. He had his wife with him, having been married about two years. Not one escaped to explain the disaster. This was a very nice vessel and had made a great deal of money for her owners. I owned a large part and was not fully insured. In 1871 I began a large bark. She was launched, finished, and went to Boston to load for Liverpool. Her name was George A. Wright. Nine days out of Boston the Captain left her with his no wife, two children, and the chief mate, leaving all the rest on- board, it being just at dark, and they having but one boat left, and that boat disabled, by something falling from aloft on her. The fishing schooner that picked up the Captain and his family from the boat they left the ship in, lay by, and in the morning took the rest of the crew. The bark was in as good a condition as she was when the Captain left her. There was little water in her, and I think I might say she was in quite good condition ex- cept for loss of fore topmast, that the Captain had cut away. This vessel was in charge of Captain Joseph Brooks of Portland, •c man of much experience and called a good sailor, but he had never been in a vessel load'ed with grain. I have little doubt that he was frightened and the vessel ought not to have been aban- doned. I was not fully insured on this vessel and my loss was over seven thousand dollars. Before I built the George A. Wright I had built in Bath in 1873 and 1874 the bark B. Webster and bark H. J. Libby. The B. Webster sailed from Portland bound to Buenos Avres in charge of Captain A. W. Smart. He continued master until he left her to go master of Itonus. This vessel cost us less than thirty-eight thousand dollars. The first year she paid her owners sixteen thousand three hundred dollars. She continued to be profitable mostly in the East Indian, Australian, and West Coast of Chili trade, and I sold her in Callao in June 1896, at a very good price. Her history was good. The H. J. Libby was six months older, built on same model, mostly in the same trade, was run on shore near Fire Island, Long Island, New York, by an incompetent Captain. The ves- bcl and cargo were a total loss, but though she ended her life in this way, still she had been quite a profitable vessel to the own- ers. The bark Onaway was built in 1883, nine hundred ninety- three tons and a first class vessel in every respect. She loaded m Boston and sailed for Australia in October 1883. She cost on leaving Boston, metalled high, advance wages, provisions and everything paid after she discharged her pilot, $57,260. First dividend April 14, 1884, was $6,432. The last dividend was January 12, 1900, was $3,200. All the dividends she has made amount to $103,926, and I expect to hear of her arrival in Lahaina, Sandwich Islands daily. This vessel I had built as all the others before; I started them alone, so that when they were finished and went to sea I had let my friends have small pieces, . and reserved for mvself from one fourth to two thirds. This vessel I retain fifteen thirty-seconds of. Ill The bark Grace Deering was seven hundred thirty tons. September 18, 1884, I bought twenty-eight thirty-seconds, pay- ing at the rate of sixteen thousand for the whole vessel. Sept- ember, 1899, have received dividends of $60,724. She is now in ' New York, just returned from a voyage around the world. I own forty-three sixty-fourths of her. She has been quite a for- tunate vessel since I bought and took the management of her, — all the time employed on long voyages. She has made safe passages without any losses. The brig Mary C. Mariner a little less than three hundred tons. 1 bought a large piece and took the management. She paid her cost every two years for six years ; then I took her to Yarmouth new topped her, all new wire rigging and mostly new stern and made a first rate vessel of her at a cost of about seven thousand. She ran about six years. While I managed her she was quite a profitable vessel and was called by some "Webster's School Ship'' on account of changing so many Captains from her into larger ships. I think the number was six or eight. On a passage from Jamaica to New York, put into Key West, was condemned and fcold ; thus ending a life of great usefulness, as many young men would testify who owed their advance in life to her. I bought a large piece of the bark Hiero and took the man- agement of her in oder to get one of my neighbors Captain John Davis in command of her, — a man of long experience and an excellent sailor. She loaded with grain in New York for Waterford in Ireland. Nine days out of New York the pumps were choked by the grain getting to them and the vessel was abandoned. This vessel was lost wholly on account of the cargo not being properly loaded, and dunnaged as it should have been. The underwriters refused to pay. Their ground was that she was not properly fitted for the cargo. We sued three offices, and trial lasted three days. The jury disagreed. We had seven out of the twelve. Entered at once for a new trial. A few months after compromised the case and took seventy-five cents on a dol- lar. In the meantime two offices had failed. They had quite a sum on her. This was a big loss for me. I bought a large piece of the Giles Loring and took the man- agement. This vessel did well for quite a number of years, and made money. Then she loaded for West Coast of Africa. The Captain's conduct there was such that he became sick and died. The mate was incompetent to take charge. The vessel discharged her cargo at quite a number of different ports, and loaded for Marseilles in France. We had another 112 vessel there and took her mate to be master of Giles Loring. The vessel went to sea; some six or eight days after put back. She discharged some of the cargo and was sold at public auction, for Jess than half that it was invoiced for. This was bought back by the agent for the owners. Some was shipped by steamer to Marseilles. A small part of the cargo was damaged', and was sold for the benefit of whom it might con- cern. I fully believe it was arranged between the Captain and this agent for the vessel's return and for the rest of the episode,-- to get the insurance on the damaged cargo to buy back a large part for less than half its value. Then the owners of the cargo belonging in London sued the owners of the vessel for the loss on the cargo, and recove];ed, wholly against any cases of the kind on record. I well remember when my chance came to go on the stand, that my lawyer put all questions to me that he liked, then the lawyer for the plaintiff began a thorough cross-examination. He asked me a number of questions that I couldn't answer ; one in particular he seemed determined to have answered. I answered that I couldn't tell. He said, "Tell me what you think." I turned to the Judge: — "Will your Honor allow me to tell him what I think?" "Yes, tell him what you think." I turned to the lawyer and said, "As you force me to tell you what I think, I'll do so. They bought back a large part of this cargo for less than half its value, sent it forward to be sold in Marseilles at a very large profit. Then they collected from the underwriters and received pay for all the damaged cargo." The lawyer said "Stop, stop." I went on — "And now they sue us, — The lawyer said "Didli't I tell you to stop ?" "To get pay for it the third time." The lawyer repeated "Didn't I tell you to stop ?" "You told me to tell you what I thought, and I've done, and I fully believe it is all true." So this vessel wound up with a big loss at the end. I then bought over half of the ship Bertha and managed her. She made quite a number of Atlantic voyages. East Indies, Japan, Manilla, and two voyages to Buenos Ayres. The last time from Buenos Ayres she returned by the way of Turk's Island loaded with salt for Boston, but never arrived. We never had any news from the vessel or any of the crew. After I bought into this vessel she paid her owners well. The last voyage, the Captain remitted his freight from Buenos Ayres. 113 I knew that when this vessel reached Boston she must be remet- alled. I kept back one thousand dollars of the remittance from Buenos Ay res, and made a dividend of the balance. After I was satisfied that this vessel would never be heard from, she was so much overdue, I made a dividend of all the money in my hands. I had quite an amount insured on her freight. After a reasonable time the insurance offices paid it. I made another dividend to the owners of a part of it, keeping back quite a sum in case any of the heirs of the sailors should make a claim for wages. After a reasonable time, being satisfied that no such contingency would' arise, I made another dividend, making three dividends after she was lost. There was an old gentleman named Loring of North Yar- mouth for whom I had much regard, — a farmer; he said that "This vessel beat all that he ever heard of. She made dividends of tener after she was lost than she did before." There is no more about this vessel except that she was a good piece of property for me. CHAPTER XVIII. VESSELS THAT I HAVE HAD BUILT, HAVE BOUGHT INTO, AND MANAGED ; AND CAPTAINS THAT HAVE COM- MANDED THEM. LOSSES. I give here the names of the vessels that I have built, bought into, and managed. I will give a statement of their Captajns later. Brig Levant, the first new vesisel that I commanded. I owned three-eighths of her. When new left Portland over nine- teen hundred dollars in debt. In less that two years paid the debt and bought me the first chronometer I ever owned at a cost of two hundred fifty-three dollars. After sailing her six years, put a man named John Mann from Freeport in command. She was lost in the Western Islands. Crew saved, no insurance. Bark Agenora, I had built at Yarmouth. Mr. J. Baker and I built her in equal parts. After she was all completed I bought one sixteenth of him, leaving him seven sixteenths and me nine sixteenths. I left this vessel in less than three years, put my mate in command. Ship Pumgustuck, Ship Helios, Brig Agenora (second of the name) Ship J. Baker, Bark B. Webster, Bark H. J. Libby, Bark Charles Fobes, Bark Itonus, Bark George A. Wright, Bark Onaway, Brig Emma. / All the above I built. Bought into: — Brig Giles Loring, Brig M. C. Mariner, Ship Bertha, Bark Grace Deering, Bark Hiero. The vessels I have commanded are : — Schooner Isaac Jackson, - Schooner Julianne, Brig Levant, Bark Agenora, Ship Pumgus- tuck, Ship Helios. I will give a list of the different men I have assisted to be Captains up to March, 1890. Isaac Skillins, mate with me in the bark Agenora, joined in 1847 when she was new. In less than three years I gave him command of the same vessel ; a very smart, driving, honest, tem- perate man, died years ago at Bath. John Mann received command of the brig Levant when I left her. I wish I'd never seen him. Died years ago. Darius Pratt took command of the ship Pumgustuck when I left her; himself, wife, and son were lost in the steamer Arctic 115 on a passage from Liverpool. He was a capable smart man, a great driver, and' made quick passages ; understood business well. He was a great loss to his sisters, and to me as a business man. Joseph Mitchell took command of the ship Helios when she was new ; a very clever and trusty man. Died off Cape Good H9pe on a passage to Calcutta. Cartney, mate of the ship Helios ; took command when Captain Mitchell died. He went master for about four years, out in the East, Calcutta, Sydney, Hong Kong, and Valparaiso, South America. He was a smart man but not honest. He was re- .moved from the command of the Helios. He was washed over- board, finallv, and drowned. Let all his 'dishonest works die with him. Walter Swett took command of the Emma when she was new, and then of the bark Charles Forbes ; a capable saving man, at- tentive to business ; now living on his fine place in Falmouth. Frank White took command of the Agenora when she was new. He was a temperate, honest, capable man, and made very quick voyages. He is now a merchant in Portland. Durgin took command of the Mary C. Mariner when I bought into her; he died from a wound received from a sailor. Charles H. Buckman took command of the Mary C. Mariner; afterward of the bark H. J. Libby. He was a steady, capable, temperate man, now interested in Fairbanks Scales. William Allen made master of ship J. BaJ^er when she was new. He was well qualified for master. Later in life had command of an English ship. He sailed for Quebec from England and never was heard from. Captain ]\rarcellus Low took command of the brig M. C. Mar- iner then of the bark Charles F^es. He remained by her seven, years, then left on account of bad health. He remained home awhile then took command of the brig Giles Loring. He died on the passage from Cuba to Boston. He was an A 1 Ship Master in every respect. His wife, a daughter of the Hon. Ephriam Sturdivant was with him in the Charles Forbes and in the Giles Loring when her husband died. She was a smart in- telligent woman, well posted in affairs on shipboard; it was an advantage to the owners to have her with her husband. She lives at Cumberland on the place where she was born, — the Ephraim Sturdivant place. Her life is a pattern for younger women to follow. George M. Buckman was second mate of the bark B. Webster when she was new in 1873, for one voyage. Then was mate of brig Emma for a number of years. Then was master of the 116 same vessel ; then master of bark I tonus. He was in her a num- ber of years and made long voyages, — to Australia and the West Coast of Chili. Eemained at home one voyage, and the mate took charge. He was a steady, temperate man, attentive to ves- sel's business in all things ;- — minding his own affairs and never meddling with any one's else. He is now at home at Falmouth with his two sons. Fred Crickett started mate of bark H. J. Libby in 1873. After a few years, promoted to be master of Agenora, then to command of ship Bertha. He made two Atlantic voyages, and quite a number of long voyages to East Indies, Australia, Japan, and Manilla. He went then to the Onaway in which he made many long voyages. He left her much against my wishes. He has a very nice home in Cumberland Center. He is married and has three daughters. For the last four years he has remained ashore, and has gone to New York in my interests when my ves- sels arrive there. I well remember our first acquaintance. I had the H. J. Libby loaded for Buenos Ayres ; one morning after a heavy snow storm I was down superintending the men who were shovelling snow. A man waded down through the snow and came on board and asked me if I were Captain Webster. I re- plied "Yes." "Do you want a mate for this bark ?" "Yes.'' "I should like the situation." I asked what vessel he had been in, and how long he had been in Portland. He said he had arrived the evening before from Boston. I asked many questions, at the same time studying his countenance. I asked how long before he could arrange to join the ship, and he replied "One hour." "And then can you tend to my business ?" "Yes." In our long acquaintance I believe that he has striven to carry cut what he said at that time, and I feel that the acquaintance made that morning has been an advantage to both him and my- self. H. P. Prince started out mate of the Emma, promoted to mas- ter of the Agenora then to the bark B. Webster. In the latter a, number of years mostly on long voyages. Then to bark Ona- way for one voyage. He was a very clever capable man. He was representative to the Legislature two terms. He died in Feb- ruary, 1899. He was a great loss to his family and many friends. His life was an example for men to follow. 117 Patterson was master of the Mary C. Mariner, but left on ac- count of his health. I haven't heard from him for a number of years, and think he must be dead. Samuel Seabury began as a boy in '73 on board bark B. Web- ster, and remained there until he was mate, then was mate of the new bark George A. Wright, then promoted to command of the Agenora. He made a number of voyages to Europe. He sailed from New York to Cuba and never was heard from. He was a temperate clever man of much promise. Walls was master of the Agenora but for a few voyages. He then took command of another vessel for other parties. The vessel was lost at sea and no one escaped. Joseph H. Brooks took command of the Agenora then was promoted to the George A. Wright when new. He loaded in Boston with grain for Liverpool. This fine vessel was aban- doned nine days out of Boston. Mumford was commander of brig Emma for a few voyages, then took command of a vessel owned by other parties. The vessel and Captain were lost on the West Coast of Ireland. E. H. Pray was master of the brig Emma for one voyage, then of brig Mary C. Mariner, then of B. Webster. The vessel was sold in Callao. He now is in the Sailors' Snug Harbor, New York. I hope he will soon be out and able to take command of the .vessel in which he owns and of which he has been Master on her return to New York. I let him have money to buy into this vessel. He is over sixty, and it seems hard for him to go to sea at that age. Dole was Master of Mary C. Mariner for a number of voyages. He has been ashore for a number of years and lives at South Portland. A. W. Pratt in 1873 received money from me to come home from California. He went on board bark H. J. Libby as a ship boy. He remained by her a long time, then was made mate of the brig Emma, then mate of ship Bertha, then promoted to be master of bark H. J. Libby, — the same one in which he began as a boy. He was afterwards Master of the Grace Deering, then made one voyage in the Onaway. He left seafaring of his own volition. He was a smart driving man. John A. Meech was mate of bark B. Webster for several years. Afterward Master of bark Grace Deering. He is now Master of the bark Onaway. I think him well worthy of the position he occupies. S. P. Drinkwater was Master of the bark Grace Deering. He has made two voyages round the world, — one to Australia and 118 Singapore, and is now home on a visit. The vessel is in New York. I believe him to be strictly honest and temperate, and a man alert for the owners' interests. Charles Richardson started second mate of the B. Webster when new in 1873. He then was first mate of Mar}' C. Mariner. Then Master of brig Emma, then of bark H. J. Libby. He made a number of long voyages in this vessel. He was a smart driv- ing man. I haven't heard from him for several years. John Davis, of bark Hiero. He was only in her a short time, then abandoned her on passage from New York to Waterford in Ireland. He was a man of much experience. Died in Yar- mouth. Bradford Joined bark Charles Fobes as mate, then promoted to be Master of the same vessel. He abandoned her on' the Northeast part of Georges bound to Portland. She was picked up by fishermen and brought into Halifax in good order. I haven't seen Bradford for many years. John Titcomb was mate of bark Charles Fobes and brig Agenora, afterwards Master of brig M. C. Mariner Smith, mate of the barks Esther and Charles Fobes, Master of M. C. Mariner. . Hoglan was a boy on board the Esther. Later was second mate, and mate of Emma, then Master of Emma, died of yellow fever. Wanton Storer, mate of bark Itonus a number of voyages then Master of the same vessel. On his second voyage round the world was never heard from. R. M, Tapley, Master of bark Onaway for one voyage. Je'dd F. Pray, mate of bark B. Webster, afterwards Master of H. J. Libbv. He ran her ashore on Long Island near Fire Island, and she was a total loss. Losses I have had in different ways from my twenty-first year. First money I earned after twenty-one put in savings bank. After a number of years thev paid a percentage, and I lost, ' $80.00 While I was mate and Master of schooner Isaac Jackson $440.00 The brig Levant lost at Western Islands, $3000.00 The bark Agenora lost at sea, $5800.00 Pumgustuck lost at sea, $5444.00 Bark Hiero abandoned at sea, $1500.00 Ship Helios totally dismasted, $2000.00 George A. Wright abandoned at sea by Captain's being frightened, $7000.00 Cotton mill at Yarmouth, $15000.00 119 Different Oil Companies, Gold Mines in California, Brig Giles Loring lost in Africa, Schooner Belle Crowell capsized at sea, Two stern wheel steamers. Bark H. J. Libby, Ship J. Baker, Guptill and Lyman, failure, Charles H. Dodge, Helping negro through college, Brig Anna M. Knight went ashore on Abycos, Schooner commanded by Captain Durgin, Schooner Seabird, Ocean Insurance Company, One Soule and J. B. Blethen, Taken from my pocket. Gold mines. $2850.00 $600.00 $2500.00 $400.00 $1370.00 $1500.00 $2500.00 $3370 00 $78.00 $31.00 $255.00 $200.00 $200.00 $7500.00 $200.00 $500.00 $300.00 CHAPTER XIX. CONCLUSION. I think that now this history might as well be brought to a close. It is thirty-six years since I left the command of Ship Helios at San Francisco and came home and bought fifteen thirty-seconds of her. I bought this home where I have lived over thirty-five years. I own a fine summer residence at Cush- ing's Island where I have spent a number of summers. My wife enjoyed it very much. She died very suddenly March 16, 1896, fifty-one years and two months from our marriage to her death. She was a very lovely and Christian woman. In this fifty-one years and two months she never spoke an angry word to me. 1 never knew her to slander or speak ill of any one. If she was told any slander she never repeated it to others. She died quietly and peacefully without a word or struggle. I would like to add a journal, some of it written fifty-five years ago, by my wife during the voyages in which she accom- panied me at sea. It is fragmentary and imperfect, some of the pages missing and much of it without 'dates. It has been laid awav for manv vears, and was discovered after her death. In fond memory of her who wrote it, and because of the great inter- est of the journal itself, it becomes a pride and a pleasure to all who belonged to her to preserve it in print. '> ■> o :> '5 o » •» ^ 9 5 3 ' 3 o :> 5 ) 5 ' 5 3 I •> 3 3 3 J ■»« ■• 3 3 3 J 3 3 3 l(L4 0^t ^la iitci^ Av-^MJm- DIAEY OF MBS. BENJAMIN WEBSTER. Boston, November 9th, 1845. Since I last wrote anything I have been at home and have found my friends vv^ell. I called all around and then went to Portland where I stopped a few days. I then came to Boston on the 31st of October and boarded' at Mr. Fogg's until yesterday, when I came on board and here I expect to stay for a long time to come. No particular change has taken place since I left ex- cepting a new mate and a gentleman passenger — I hope that we shall enjoy ourselves and indeed I think we shall for we can pvit confidence in Mr. Chandler, which is more than we have in any mate we have had since I Joined the brig. Since I have been here I have visited Bunker Hill monument, the State House and the glass works. The last I was much pleased with. It was really curious to see the men work the melted glass with as much apparent ease as I would work molasses candy. I saw them make tumblers, smelling bottles, curtain pin heads, etc. Thursday 13. We are now three days out with a fair wind, which will carry us to Havana in a short time if it is continued to us the same. The second day out several little birds came to us for protect- ion. Mr. Chandler caught one and gave it to me. B made a cage for it and' sat it upon the stove, and a short time after- ward accidentally knocked' it down, and the poor little bird died soon after either from the fall or fright. The brig has been cut- ting up her capers as usual when we have a strong breeze, such as throwing down the chairs, upsetting the dishes and making every possible noise that can be imagined, and with everything else the passenger and myself were quite seasick, which was nothing more than I expected. He — the passenger is an en- tirely green sailor and I am bound to be sick when we have rough weather; but now we are quite smart again, and I have made one shirt since we sailed and to-day have set up a stocking. The Captain and mate and all hand's are very busy doing ship duty, such as sending up the royal yard — splicing the top-lifts and last night there was a studdingsail yard made directly over my head by moonlight. Oh dear ! Sunday 16. We are half-way to Havana and if the wind continues to favor us as it has done, we shall make a quick pas- sage. As usual Sunday is rather a 'dtill day we have no variety 122 to distinguish that from any other excepting that the men are idle. It is a ver}^ rare thing to see one of them with a book, — very likely not one on board (of the men forward) knows how to read or even write his own name. Poor io^norant set, thev live a life of toil and hardship ; they truly earn their money and it is easily spent as soon as they get ashore. Such is the sailor. Sunda}^ 23, just 2 o'clock. We are now anchored on the Bahama banks with several ships in. company with us ; it is rather discouraging to lie here with a head wind', however hope that we shall be able to start to-night. The passenger and men are busy trying to catch fish. Mr. Chandler is reading his Bible. Ben- jamin is asleeji coiled up in the berth and Jack the dog is trotting about deck. So the day will pass away with nothing to interest excepiing a few old newspapers which I have read and reread several times over. When I have nothing else to do I read the advertisements and perhaps find a farm for sale, so I muse upon that, thinking how it would suit my taste to be a farmer's wife. But these illusions vanish when Benjamin winds up the conver- sation with "I always expect to go to sea." Thursdav, 2?. Here we are safe in Havana. We arrived yesterday, and now are safe at the wharf ; and such a noise and confusion I never heard before. The half-naked negroes are un- loading the vessel and they sing to their utmost power. And such singing ! I hope that I shall go ashore to-day for I have considerable curiosity to see the city of which I have so often heard. Saturday, 19th. I have been ashore and have seen the city, and I can sincerely say that I never have been in any place that I was so much pleased with. There is a vast deal to attract one's attention. Their carriages are very different from what I have been used to seeing; their wheels are enormously large, and the bodv is set a long wav forward. The arms are verv long and the drivers sit on the horse with boots which extend half way up their bodies and they are dressed in livery. From their ap- pearance I should judge that they felt very grand'. As we passed their carriage stand one of them stepped up to us and pointed out his carriage and evinced by his gestures his great desire that we should avail ourselves of his offer. We however declined as I much preferred walking to riding ; and as I wished to see all that could be seen ; at night they take their carriages into their dwel- lings. The ladies were most of them very prettily dressed and I saw many of them looking through the iron grated windows. Their flowing white dresses, bright sparkling eyes and jet black hair 123 were enough almost to captivate one. I have never seen the Spanish beauties before and should judge from what little I have seen that their charms have not been exaggerated. The shops are fitted up in a most gorgeous style; everything appears to be placed in Just the right position to show to the greatest possible advantage. Their dwelling houses kre very large and some of them very splendid, mostly built of stone. I should judge that they were costly. I think that the city must be very rich. I suppose that they knew me to be a foreigner for I was never gazed at so before in my life. The Governor's palace is a very large building, painted light blue with turrets around the top arid a splendid yard with a fountain in front. The walks as well as the floors are marble and I observed that the most of the floors were of the same material all laid in squares or dia- monds and of various colors. I never saw the like before, they are splendid. I saw an elegant bird bright red and black, I did not know what it was. Tuesday, December 2d. Last eve went ashore and walked through the governor's yard before his palace, saw the guard of soldiers stationed before his door; they guard his door day and night. Visited a confectionery store where things were done up in quite good style, equal to New York with the exception of the very dirty tile floors. I partook of an ice cream which was very nice for the West Indies. I saw tlie monument which was erected in memory of Christopher Columbus' first landing place. His remains are in this place. I have not been in the church where he lies yet. Tlie })ulpit is erected directly over his bones. Wednesday evening. Have been promenading before the gov- ernor's^ door and heard some most "d'eliglitful music. Was in- troduced to a Captain Trim and a supercargo whom I should think was quite an exquisite if I were to judge from his large gold shirt studs, the circumference of which, I presume, would equal that of a quarter of a dollar, and a most scientific bow upon our introduction and a breath strongly perfumed with brandy — surely he must be one of the first water. Thursday, 4th. This morning set sail for TvTew Orleans and watched the city of Havana nutil there was but the dim outline of the place to be seen at the edge of the horizon, then took my last look of the Moro probably forever, then went to the cabin and resigned myself to seasickness again until we reached the broad and beautiful Mississippi. Monday, 8th, morn. We are now sailing up the Mississippi with a fine breeze and going at the rate of five miles per hour and hope soon to be at the city of New Orleans. The banks look 124, green and beautiful although it is now December and in our own state probably the ground is covered with snow and merrily go the bells. Tuesday, 9th, morn. Here we safely tied up to a tree on the bank of the Mississippi; last night at 12 o'clock, the wind died away and left us in a stark calm after getting nearly half way to the city. This morning the fog is so dense that we can scarcely see the length of the vessel so we shall be obliged to re- main tied until a breeze comes. An hour ago I heard a man talking to our steward and inquiring for Irish potatoes. I should like much to make an exchange with him for some sweet ones. Afternoon: — A shower of rain which makes it necessary for us to tie up again after being loose only about two hours ; — quite a strong wind which will help us along if we can onlv use it. Friday, 12th. Not at Orleans yet; head wind and foggy weather — almost discouraged about its clearing off. However we have changed our situation since Tuesday and now instead of being tied to a tree we are tied to a log by the river. Our passenger sits almost frozen by the stove. Mr. Chandler is man- ufacturing a spittoon notwithstanding his lameness. Benjamin is sitting in the rocking chair eating an apple looking rather sober. The men are varnishing the mast and the steward getting supper, so we are all employed in some way that is useful. I neglected to mention that before we left Havana Mr. Chandler fell into the brig's hold and sprained his ankle very badly and he is still obliged to go about on crutches. When I heard him fall I expected that he was killed, but fortunate he surely was to come off as well as he did. Saturday, 13th. Still foggy and we shall not be able to sail an inch until the wind changes. The tow boats are continually passing us with as many as they can pull along, and such puffing and blowing we never hear at the north. I must now commence sewing and confine myself steadily to it if I wish to accomplish much this day. . Sunday, 14th. Rain, rain, nothing but fog and rain for a whole week I I am alone with the exception of Jack the dog who sits quietly by the stove gnawing lazily a bone. B is "un- dergoing" (as Mr. Chandler expresses it) another nap in the berth and as for myself I have been reading the Bible and a lit- tle in several other books. We had a Dutch Captain to dine with us upon roast pig. Monday, 15th. Rose this morning at 7 o'clock after sleeping most profoundly for ten hours. The sun shone out in all his 125 splendor and cleared the misty and foggy clouds away and now the air is exhilarating and cool enough for comfort although it is the middle of December. During the night the wind came fair and accordingly we pulled up stakes and started, but had not gone more than two miles when the wind was ahead again. So we anchored for the night and it is still there this morning. The men are busy painting the vessel. The cook is preparing dinner, Mr. Simons is walking leisurely around and I am mak- ing a shirt for B. Tuesday, 16th. Nothing new excepting that we have moved a few miles farther up the river and it is a stark calm. Friday, 19th. We have at last succeeded in getting up the river as far as we wish for the present, and I suppose we shall lie here until we get a leak stopped in the brig. It is a beautiful bright sunshiny day and ever^^thing looks brisk and lively. B. has gone to the city, and I have had quite a lonely day of it. Sunday, 21st. Dined at Mr. Eobinson's to-day, then crossed the ferry and took a walk over the Queen of the West as some style it but did not see anything very remakable. I visited the Hospital. I saw Mr. Chandler who went a few days ago to see if the doctor there coul'd not do something for his foot. But they think there is nothing excepting a sprain the matter with it so he thinks that he shall come on board the brig again soon. I do not have a very good opinion of the Marine Hospital in this place and do not think that the patients have much attention. Monday, 2 2d. Have been employed writing home to-day, then paced the deck for an hour to sun myself. It has been exceed- ingly cold for this place, as yesterday, ice made all day in the shade, and some one at Mr. Eobinson's observed that he saw ice an inch and a half thick. The Ohio river is frozen over so hard that it is impassable, and the produce cannot be brought from the western country. Business will be stagnated until ttiat opens. The Sabbath is not much regarded here, the shops are open and I saw a blacksmith at his work and a large crowd of people collected around an engine to see to what height they could throw water. It appears to be a day of amusement more than the sacred Sabbath. Probably we shall remain here some time as business is so dull. Thursday, 25^ Christmas. We dined at Mr. Eobinson's to-day and had a dinner of oyster soup, roast duck and turkey salad, mince pie, wine, etc., etc., — a very good dinner. I enjoyed my- self very well. Saturday, the 27th. The brig is hove down to-day. Accord- ingly I was obliged to leave her for the day and stop at a public 126 house. The landlady was an English lady and she related to me a tale of the woes which had befallen her since she came to this country. I lent a listening ear. "I left Liverpool," she says, 'Vith such a family as every mother's heart would be jDroud of, two sons and two daughters ; but ere two months had passed away three out of the four were lifeless corpses. Thank God I have one son left ! My grief was such that for four months I could not leave my bed. I could not be reconciled to the loss of my darlings. Oh, if one daughter could only have been spared to love her mother, but no, Stern Death, that relentless 'destroyer, took them both, and almost tore my bleeding heart from my bosom; and now although twelve years have flown by my grief is stil here at my heart. I am not what I once was, ray memory is almost destroyed. I shall soon be in my resting place. My greatest wish now is to be laid beside their moulder- ing dust." Such was her tale. Sunday, 28th. Although it is Sunday the laborers are at work all around us and making as much noise as though it was any other day. The day is not regarded at all by most of the labor- ers. Monday, 30th. Spent the day at Mrs. Steams'. She enter- tained me with a variety of interesting narratives, and if I may be allowed to judge after so short acquaintance I should say that I found her to be a very entertaining lady. She says that in London where she was brought up a gentleman of high birth and elegant figure was united to a lady of rank with an exceedingly beautiful countenance. The wedding was splendid — beauty, wealth, youth and the warm caresses of a vast number of friends rendered the occasion one of the most joyous ever celebrated. They were united, then went to their place of abode in which was everything that the heart coul'd wish or the eye desire. Five days did this bride spend in her splendid abode and on the sixth in her husband's absence she ordered the coachman to drive her to her mother, whose residence was about five miles distant. She or- dered him not to reveal to any person not even his master where she had gone. At length the husband came home and his wife was not there to welcome him with her sweet smiles. He in- quired of her servants where she was and not one of them could give any account of her. At length he sent for the coachman and asked him if he had driven his wife out. He could not lie to his master and answered in the affirmative and that she had gone to her mother's. This somewhat eased his mind sup- posing that she would soon return. He waited but she did not 127 come. He saddled a horse and soon arrived at his mother-in- law's. When the lady arrived at her mother's she did not wait as nsnal for assistance from her servants, but with a wild counte- nance she ilew up stairs to the attic and there would remain not- withstanding all her mother's. efforts to the contrary; nor could she be prevailed upon to relate what was the cause of her conduct, although entreated and importuned by her mother, with tears in her eye. All the satisfaction she would give was that her trouble was of too delicate a nature for her to expose therefore the secret must lie concealed in her own bosom. The husband came and solicited an interview with his wife but this was denied him, as it was her desire that upon no con- dition whatever would he see her, and he was obliged to return with a heavy heart without the remotest idea as to what was the cause of this mysterious conduct of his adored wife. Thus they remained for a long time ; at last by the advice of his friends he sought for a divorce, the council was called and the parties sum- moned to make a public testimony of their grievances. The wife obeyed her summons; every eye was fixed upon her as the judge handed her a paper that she might write what she chose. She took the paper and with one stroke of her pen she made a long dash thus then folded the sheet, and handed' it to the judge. There was perfect silence throughout the court; some were in tears,an'd' every one was listening with utmost anxie- ty to hear the result; when the judge rose up and said, "Lady you are at liberty to return undefiled, innocent as upon your bridal day. To the husband he said, "You now may go." The court then retired and it still remains a mystery to the many but some understood what the blank sheet represented. Reader do you understand it ? One-half past 6 o'clock evening January 1st, 1846. So the old year has bid us a long adieu never more to return and with it has passed many a tale of sorrow as well as of joy which will remain sealed in oblivion. The year was w^elcomed in by me in a manner that I shall not soon forget. The day has been quite warm with an occasional shower and now the eve is very fine and warm enough for comfort. Mr. Chandler is now hob- bling along on his crutches with a basket of wood to make the morning fire with, Benjamin is down in the brig's hold scraping with all his might by lamp-light as though he were at work upon a wager. oSTow all this appears to me as a very foolish freak, but he is bound to do so. We were invited to dine out to-day but concluded it was best to stay at home. Capt. Pomeroy spent the 128 afternoon with us. He is a very social man and is lying still without business like all the others. It does not appear to wear upon his spirits much. Frank Soule, or Capt. Soule I should have said, is nearly ready to start ; he will d(^better than many others, I suppose. Keport says that he is to be married when he returns to Freeport, I don't know how true it may be. Sunday, the 4th. Went to the city and walked through the burying-ground where I saw some splendid monuments which have been built since I was here last spring. One in particular I noticed which was erected by a wealthy man for himself when his spirit leaves his tenement. It far surpasses anything of the kind that I have ever before seen. The pillars in front are of solid iron, the walls are of brick and cemented over to resemble granite and six marble slabs are inserted in the front which I suppose are for some par- ticular friends as he has no children. There is one large slab on the back which one of his negroes informed us was for himself and the object of his lying near the ground was that he might come out when he chose and go all around the monument and see the flowers which are there planted. Tlie front is jutted in so that it leaves quite a little room in which is an altar on which are placed six wax candles beautifully decorated and a crucifix and several other images and framed pictures of which I do not un- derstand the interpretation. There were six chairs in the room three on either side which gave him an opportunity to invite his visitors to sit and rest themselves. It would almost take away the gloom of dying if one coul'd lie in such a beautiful place. Friday, the 9th. Last evening we_ took steam and left Algiers and are now lying at Lafayette. This morning a new cook came on board with such a funn^v^ nose. It is quite large and flatted down which gives it a very curious appearance. "He says, Misses, I am a stranger here and want to know if there is any potatoes on board," "Oh yes," said I, "come down in the cabin and I will show you where they are;" so down he came and I pointed to the half deck and told him to look in a half barrel and he would find some and that I had placed a board on the pantry floor which was newly painted so that it should not be tra(cked. "Oh yes, I'll take keer," and along he went putting his his feet on the floor on both sides of the board and to my horror I saw the print of them all covered with mud. So much for my painting and if he is not mighty careful we may quarrel. I have been bu^y all the forenoon scalding my pineapple pre- serves and have just made two mince pies for dinner. 129 Sunday, the 11th. Walked out with my parasol and found it quite a necessary appendage. It was quite warm. Tuesday, the 13th. Now we are ready to go up the river and shall take steam. We are expecting to start immediately. I just saw a boat which the Hon. Henry Clay was on board, but did not see his honorable personage. Wednesday morning. We are now seventy-eight miles above New Orleans and shall stop at the plantation but a short time, the planter having informed us that he had but a small quantity of molasses for us so when we get all that he has we shall pull up stakes and go to another. Friday, the 16th. Our poor dog Jack breathed his last to- day, but in what manner 1 am wilfully ignorant. I hope that his remains were decently buried and if I were to write his epitaph it would be thus. Beneath this sod lies Poor Jack who embarked on board the Brig Levant Kov. 1st, 1845, to take a voyage to sea while his master was absent a few months at school. His cheerful, mild and playful disposition endeared him to his circle of acquaintances, but ere three months had elapsed disease, that relentless destroyer, had seized upon his vitals and now he is no more. Reader, pause and think ! ! V His fate may be thine own. Saturday, 17th. Walked to the residence of the planter. It is really delightful. There is a long walk before you reach it with live oak all covered with the moss which abounds in this country, on each si'd'e, and I saw the oranges all around upon the the ground, but they were sour, not fit to eat. Sunday, the 18th. As there is no church near we must still stay at our usual place on board the Levant. We have a gentle- man caller and I will stop. Monday, the 19th. This day, twelve month, I entered' the mat- rimonial state which united my fate with another's and I have no reason to regret the step which I have taken. Tuesday, the 20th. A gentleman from Newport, Rhode Is- land, has spent the most of the day with me and he appears to be a very intelligent man. 130 Thursday, the 22d. I have just returned from a walk about a mile upon the levee. I saw an old slave sitting by the roadside with her knitting work upon her lap and her pipe in her hand attempting to fill it to have a smoke. So I sat down with her and amused myself for a half hour in asking her questions. "What do you do ?" said I. Oh, says she, "I 'do that/' pointing before her to a dozen sheep who were quietly napping in the shadow of a large tree, "I mind the sheep.'^ "Do you like to mind the sheep ?" "Yes, when it is pleasant, but when it storms Old Hannah Manning must be out when the others are sitting in their cabins.'' "Have you a husband ?" "No, I have had three, but the last one died two years ago." "Shall you marry again ?" "Oh no, not for all the vanities of the world ! For when you get a husband you don't know what he is until you have tried him, then you may wish that you had never seen him." "Do you go to church?" Yes; all the colored people on this plantation go with the white people." "Do you think that you are good ?" "T don't know that Ma'am, I try to be." "Was your husband good?" "I am not capable to tell, Ma'am." "Did he use you well?" "He 'did not use me as well as he might. Ma'am, — If anybody is good to themselves they will be good to their wives, and then they will be sure to be good to their God." "Do you expect to go to heaven?" "I hope so." "Do you pray?" "I can't tell that Ma'am, I don't know as I ought to pray." "Yes, you may pray if you wish." "Oh, I did not know as everybody might pray." These with many other questions I asked her and she answered very willingly and I came away. Saturday. Have just been out and got several branches of orange trees with the fruit on them and tied them up and hung them up in the cabin. They look very pretty. Sunday, the 25th. I am all alone. B has gone to Orleans. Mr. Chandler is ashore so I have the time to muse about matters and things. I feel quite lonely and do not know how to pass the time for reading old books and old newspapers is rather dull music, so I will sit very straight in my rocking chair and per- form the Ma'd'ame to perfection. Tuesday, the 27th. This day about noon B returned and brought news that we should return to the city and discharge what molasses we have on board. Thursday, the 28th. We now are going down the river by steam and we have a beautiful prospect of the plantations as we pass, some of which are really beautiful. Occasionally we s^ee an old woman by the river washing clothes in a washtub of 131 nature's own forming ( the river), and just now I saw a curly- headed negro child sitting down and apparently enjoying him- self. Saw mills are plentiful on the river and orange trees in abundance, but the most of the trees are sour and very unpalate- able. The steamboats pass proudly by, leaving the river in a terrible commotion, and such a shaking as they gave us ! Friday, the 29th. Here we are at the wharf again and I am all alone again. Capt. B. Prince called yesterday. "Oh, bless your old heart," he says, "how glad I am to see some one from North Yarmouth again." Saturday, the 30th. Almost 'discharged again. A very queer voyage indeed, — and now we are bound to Cuba and shall start by the middle of next week if nothing prevents. I have been quite busily employed to-day in drawing an amusement which I have resumed after neglecting it for a long time. My specimens are now quite faulty, but I hope to improve by practise. Sunday, Feb. 8th. At sea again and I have enjoyed the com- forts of seasickness for two days, but now am quite well again. Shall soon be in Cardenas if the wind continues favorable. Our passengers, Mr. Locklin and Mr. Devine, are on deck trying ta take a look into futurity by the assistance of a fortune tell-er. I think that Mr. Locklin has ascertained something which is very soul satisfying by some remarks which just dropped from his ftps. B is eating an apple and I must have a bite. Tuesday, the 10th. We are safe in Cardenas and came in, too, without a pilot, which is more than a great many captains woul'd dare to do. It is delightful weather, the thermometer is at 79 at 9 o'clock this morning, and it really seems like a June morn- ing at the North. We lay off from the city about a mile and have a fresh sea breeze every afternoon Wednesday, the 11th. This morning Capt. Everett (the man that we sailed in company from N. Orleans with), was on board andj I offered him my parasol as he was about leaving, but he refused it. I do not think he will have the same offer again. We have a French cook and such a flying creature I hardly ever saw. He undertook to wash my stateroom floor this morn- ing and such a splashing of water and such a scrubbing with the brush this cabin hardly ever before witnessed, and after he had splashed about half a pailful of water on the floor B came and wanted breakfast so he was obliged to scrabble up what he could and finish after we had breakfasted, w^hich he did in a trice with a handled mop. It is not half -washed now but it must answer for the present. 182 Thursday, the 12th. A fruit man came on board and gave me a dozen oranges, very large and nice. I suppose that he thinks to buy our custom while in port. Friday, the 13th. The fruit man has been here again and has given me a small box of guava jelly. The weather is very warm, the men are loading the vessel and look as though they are half roa&ted. I sit the most of the time in a hammock on deck which I enjoy much, I have not been ashore yet, but feel quite im- patient to go. Saturday, the 14th. Eose this morning at half past five and went on deck ; the air was 'damp and raw so was obliged to wrap myself in a shawl for comfort. I walked deck for a few moments then employed myself in lining a hat for B while he and the men had gone ashore for a lighter load of molasses. He soon returned and now the sun has shown its face in majestic glory and I must throw my shawl aside until the sun shuts its beams in deep night. Sunday, the 15th. Have been ashore and was much better pleased with the place than I anticipated. I saw sev- eral new buildings which were not wholloy completed, among which was a Catholic church, which will be a splendid church when finished. The platform on which the pulpit and several small rooms were, is of white marble, as are also the steps which ascend to them. I think this must cost an immense sum. We extended our walk a short distance into the country. The foliage of the shrubbery was of a beautiful green, the soil of a brick color which made a contrast which was truly pleasing. Thursday, the 19th. It is a warm day and I spend my time very idly having but little else to 'd'o excepting to wash my hands which are soon daubed up again with molasses. A person that has never been in the molasses business cannot imagine how un- ])leasant it is to have everything, even the chairs, covered with it. However this will soon be over with. February 22d. Dined at Mr. Lovit's with about fifty others. However there were but three other women excepting myself. We left the company at dark and came oi> board. Since I have heard that they spent the night in drinking and carousing. Such are the cold water people when they get away from home. Friday, the 27th. I have just finished the ninth pair of stockings which I have knit for B since we have been married. T like knitting work when I am at sea, it is very handy arid serves CO employ my mind. We are ready to sail and shall go to-morrow if the wind and 133 A^eather permit and I have made up my mind to enjoy a few days of seasickness, which in all probability will last more than a few. Capt. Everett brought me a pailful of oranges this morning now there are but two left. Cardenas is a small but growing place, there is one quite pretty street which runs through the place on which the shops are situated. It is really amusing lo see the dishes, cups, saucers, platters and everything of the kind all displayed for show. Saturday, the 28th. This morning sailed for Boston in com- pany with several vessels, and as our vessel is a very dull sailer I suppose that we shall not be the first arrival Tuesday, March 10th. I have been sick every day since we sailed until to-day. We are getting along slowly but hope to be safe there by next Sunday. If we do it, it will be a fair passage. Before leaving Cardenas we purchased some oranges, now they are half rotten. I hope that we shall be able to get some of them home. Wednesday, the 11th. This morning spoke a pilot boat and got a newspaper, a rare thing to get news at sea. It is very moderate and pleasant. Saturday, the 14th. Arrived last night and now are at the wharf, feeling very thankful that we are safe at Boston once more. We surely have escaped the dangers of the sea while others have perished. Sunday Morning, the 15th. Have been to hear a Bethel min- ister preach. His hearers were rather scarce. Afternoon. Heard Father Taylor. Think him a very sin- gular preacher, very strange gestures and ideas. I do not thinkvhis preaching very profitable although he has a large con- gregation. He may go to heaven, but if so, I do not think many others surely will. Monday, the 16th. Have been shopping and now have stopped at Mr. Fogg's, where we shall remain until we set sail again for St. Jago de Cuba. Wednesday, the 18th. Have heard from home and find that ma.tters and things move on' the same old way. Sunday Evening, the 22d. Have heard a temperance discourse and some singing by Coeval and Cook which I suppose they think excellent, but not so with me. Cook opened his mouth so far that I was really afraid the top of his head would come off, and as for the lecturer, he ought to have been hissed out of the house. He said that no person ever knew a mean, low-lived man to be a drunkard. It took a whole souled, good feeling, generous man 134 to make a drunkard, and surely ar drunkard ought to be made much of. If any person in the world was entitled to respect, it was he. Monday. Went to the Museum and saw the play "The Six Degrees of Crime'' performed. Saturday, March 28, 18-16. Brig Levant bound to St. Jago de Cuba. We are once more embarked on a voyage to the West In- dies and whether we shall ever return is only known to the Ruler of the skies. Sunday, the 29th. Have not been sick yet, which is something very unusual for me. We have a new mate and steward. The latter came on board drunk and is not much better to-dav. He appears very stupid. Monday, March 30th. Commenced sewing which I like much better than sitting still. Tuesday, the 31st. ■ A fair wind and the brig is trotting along at her usual rate. We hope to make the passage in fifteen days. Wednesday, April 1st. Have taken the stove down and do not expect to need it again till next winter. There is a decided dif- ference in the state of the weather since yesterday. To-day we are in the gulf which makes it much warmer and hope in a few more days to be where it is never known to be cold. Feel a little sick and must quit. Sunday, April 5th. We have had one continual fair wind scarcely varying a point since we came out, and we go ahead finely which is really delightful. We now are in Lat. 26.31, Long. 71.25, and hope to be near Turks Island passage very soon. It is now quite warm enough for comfort, but I do oc- casionally cast a lingering thought to the cold regions of the North, which we so lately left, and imagine the inhabitants half shivering before the fire. Sunday evening. Some of the brightest meteors exploded that I ever witnessed. It lighted up the heavens much brighter than the mid-dav sun. Tuesday, the 7th. Spoke brig Florence, Capt. Pote, with loss of deck load and likewise the captain's only brother. He id bound for St. Jago and we shall hear the particulars when we arrive there. We are just leaving Turks Island with a fair wind. Thursday the 9th. Arrived this morning after a passage of eleven days, and now the city of St. Jago lies before me in all its glory. Evening. Have been ashore and taken a view of the city. 135 The square before the Governor's house is finely laid out, and it is beautifully refreshing to walk through it and see the flowers and bright foliage of the trees, and hear the falling of the water from a marble fountain in the center, which, mingled with the voices of hundreds which promenade the walks, and with the shouts of martial music w^hich are i^ealed forth from a band, made me almost imagine myself in a fairyland. After walking and seeing until my feet and eyes were tired we seated our- selves upon one of the seats which surrounded the square and noted the various shades of complexion from the almost ivory black to the European white. The contrast was truly striking. After resting we then visited the Catholic churches which were illuminated with thousands of lighted wax candles. There we saw the image of our Savior extended upon the cross with the blood trickling from his wounds. The two Marys were there, and before them, upon beautifully tufted mats, were kneeling the females muttering audibly their prayers, then rising to make room for the others which were pressing their wa}- through the crowd to perform their vows. The church was decorated with artificial roses of a hundred hues and va^es with a variety of other flowers in profuse numbers. I noticed as we entered that every lady threw her veil over her head. I suppose that it was wicked to enter with an uncovered head. They wear no bonnets, simply a veil. As I had a cap on they made no objection to my enter- ing without a veil. At the door sat a little boy, a piece of money in his fingers which he kept constantly dropping in a glass plate, which made quite a noise, and at the same time uttering some- thing in Spanish, which, upon inquiry I found to be "Behold the Man." . This ceremon}^ was to entice people to give something as they passed him, but I think that he di'd not get much as I saw only one quarter of a dollar in his plate. The priests with their robes were walking back and forth with not very sanctified faces, and should think they did not feel as solemn as did their audience. The altar of the cathederal, I was in- formed, is overlaid with pure silver, and cost the immense sum of seventy thousand dollars. Upon one of the walls was a representation of hell, in which were priests as well as others, and at the top were angels of mercy with cords suspended to the bottom for the poor wretches to grasp to assist them out of purgatory. After seeing all that was to be seen we then left the devotees at their worship, and went to the quay and stepped in our boat and the sailors pulled to our vessel home. Friday Morning, the 10th. This morning Capt. Mabee and 136 la'dy came on board to spend the day. Never saw either of them before. Afternoon went ashore again to witness some of the Catholic performance, which was the burial of Christ. His body was taken from the church and placed upon pillow^s in a kind of a hearse, which was borne by slaves. Upon each corner of the hearse were images and in the hands of one was a reed with a sponge on the end of it to represent that which was given to Christ when he was crucified. His body had a very ghastly, deathly appearance, and it really gave me unpleasant feelings to see the blood all mixed with his hair around his fore- head, which had been pierced with thorns. The nostrils were likewise covered with blood, but the rest of the body was cov- ered with a beautifully wrought canopy, wrought with silver and gold. A long procession followed his body. First came the twelve Apostles with lighted candles in their hands; then the Monks, or Doctors of Divinitv, with their cowls and black silk garments all of such a length that boys were employed to walk at the distance of ten feet behind them with the end of the robes tied around their bodies to keep them from the ground. Then followed the Virgin Mary in a standing position upon some- thing similar to that in which Christ was carried. As we were standing and seeing with all curiosity imaginable, one of the priests bustled up to Benjamin with his eyes wide open with absolute horror, and pointing up to his ^ hat which he had on his head, said something in his language which meant take off your hat, which B quickly complied with, fearing, I suppose, that if he did not that it might be taken off without further ceremony. As soon as the Virgin came along they prostrated themselves and muttered their prayers. Such a buzzing as they made ! Then followed a whole regiment of soldiers in uniform and a bajid of music, playing a solemn tune, but in the midst of their prayers and music came a shower of rain, and such a screeching and scampering I never before saw; it was not more than two minutes before the streets were entire- ly deserted. However, the shower was not of long dura- tion, and I suppose that they soon collected again. We then took ourselves away, and on our way back we made a call upon a Spanish family that we met. In the family was a very sociable young man who had spent two years in New York and Boston. He said he liked the people much and would like to spend his days there. Sunday, the 11th. Calculated to go and see the resurrection, but did not arrive early enough. It is a beautiful morning. The thermometer stands at 80 in the cabin, but notwithstanding 137 this it is cool enough for comfort. Last evening was one of the most beautiful evenings that can be imagined; the round, full moon made it almost as light as day, and such a beautiful, clear air as we never have at the North made it truly delightful. Wednesday, the 14th. Eose this morning at five o'clock and refreshed mvself with a salt water bath then 'dressed mvself for the day. Our vessel now lays at the quay and the cargo is com- ing out ; we shall spend more than a week at this place, but as it is very healthy I do not much regret it, as it will give me a better opportunity of seeing more of the manners and customs of the people. Friday, the 16th. We are now ready to take a pilot and start for Manzanillo. The mosquitoes are so thick that I cannot write. Sunday. We are passing slowly along the island of Cuba, and as far as the eye can reach there is nothing to be seen except one continued mass of mountains and deep ravines. Some of the highest mountains are covered with clouds. Among them is the peak of Tarquino, which is the highest land that I have ever seen. Monday, the 19th. Very calm and excessively hot and sultry with scarcely a breath of air, the thermometer standing at 89. At half past one o'clock we saw a Manzanillo pilot boat a short distance ahead, and accordingly the foreyard was backed and after some pulling and hauling the pilot succeeded in getting alongside and seizing a rope which the mate had thrown him. He came on board (not until his boat was hoisted in, however). B told him to take his station where pilots generally do, but he appeared very angry and said that was not his place, so he has concluded to stay forward. Well, 'tis no matter as he is rather a low bred Spaniard and we do not wish his company much. Wednesday, the 21st. Arrived at Manzanillo last evening at eight o'clock and anchored a half of a mile from the shore, but as it was dark I could see nothing of the place, excepting lights in various directions, and I noticed one larger and more brilliant than the rest, which the pilot informied me was built by the soldiers. This morning I rose and went on deck to take a view of Man- zanillo, which is a very small town, I should Judge not more than an hun'dted buildings of quite an ancient appearance. Some of the buildings were painted a light blue, which seems to be a favorite color of the Spanish. About seven o'clock a boat came alongside in which were the visiting officers. They came below and after looking at the manifest which B had they said that 138 they must be altered. Accordingly, B sat down and made out the new ones which seemed to quiet them. One old man who saw me sitting in the stateroom, said, "You have a passenger.'' B said it was his wife. "Well, she is the same as a passenger." After some talk they concluded that I could go ashore without a passport. I should have laughed outright if they had made B get a passport for me. They then took their leave. B had to be presented to the governor before entering the vessel and T suppose he made his best bow. Friday, the 24th. The brig is now discharged and we have taken forty hogsheads of molasses, and shall in all probability be ready to start for home again by the last of next week. I have not been ashore yet and suppose that I shall not go till Sunday, as business is very pressing. Saturday, the 25th. There is no American vessel in port but there is one coming this morning and she is proudly waving her ensign in the breeze. Where ever you meet with Americans you will surely find them proud to show their colors, — ^yes, Americans will not deny their country like the men of many other nations. Liberty is their pride, their glory. W^ho doubts it ? Sunday, the 26th. A calm, clear and beautiful morning such as we have at the North in July. 1 have spent an hour since breakfast under the awning on deck watching the scenery around me. The swallows, (dear little birds), come flitting around our masts and singing in the very joyousness of their hearts, and I do really think from their appearance that they have some idea of buikling soms into the bargain. Hem ! Sinday, the 25th. A delightful morning. The sun shines bright and clear, a gentle breeze is moving us along over the smooth waters, and sky, air and the ocean all proclaim this the the Sabbath, even if we do not hear the church-going bell nor see the old and young gathering round the church to listen to the oracles of truth from the man of God, who proclaims it from the sacred desk. Monday, the 26th. Our breeze freshens a little, which en- courages us to hope that one week more will carry us to the city of I^ew York. Our passenger is quite unwell, nevertheless, he enlarges con- siderably upon the delights of whaling, and if I should express my candid opinion, I should say that his mind did not extend farther than a whaling voyage, and that his highest ambition was to kill a whale Wednesday, the 23d. I have now completed the last of my work, which I carried with me to do this voyage, and I cannot be long entirely idle without being very uneasy. B has been job- bing about to-day, doing a little here and there to divert his attention from this head wind, which is lengthening out our voy- age at a "confounded rate," as Brother Joseph would say if he were here. It is now entirely calm and I hope that the wind will conde- scend to blow the right way arid help us along as fast as possible, for I am in somewhat of a hurry to hear from the friends that we left behind us. When we were in Mayaguez, B bought three guinea pigs, being informed that they would drive away the rats, but they were of no use at all, and have all died. Friday, the 30th. We are having just now a glorious breeze, and shall soon be in the gulf stream if this continues. As I have nothing new to write I will just add that the cook caught six rats last night, which I presume will not make the least differ- ence in their numbers. They run over me while I am lying in my berth. I almost think them as plenty as they were when the children of Israel were afflicted with them. It is really a vex- ation, for nothing is secure against them. Saturday, May 1st. Disappointment. About twelve o'clock to-'day we passed a bottle with the neck out of water. I was be- low at the time, and heard the conversation that was passing on 165 deck and thought that I should like much to know what was in the said bottle. Accordingly proceeded to the deck and rather urged B to lower, the boat and go and get it. He consented, and went and obtained it. But upon examination it was found to contain, not a letter from some poor, shipwrecked mortals (just about to resign themselves forever to their last sleep) to a friend that they have on land, hoping that chance might divert it to the shore where some one migth open it and read. No. But what did it contain ? You wish to know by this time, I suppose. Well, it was all covered with barnacles, and from its appearance 1 should judge that it might have been in the ocean two years. I took it from the hands of one of the men that was in the boat, and must assure you that my heart was beating with expecta- tion when I put it to my eye and saw — what? What was it! Nothing, absolutely nothing! All that pains was for nothing but an empty rum bottle ! ! However, as it was very moderate it did not delay the brig's progress much, and B had the pleasure of an excursion upon the ocean. May the 2d. As I did not go a-Maying yesterday I will ven- ture to imagine that it is the case to-day. If I gather any flow- ers they must be flowers that upon the ocean grow, without the assistance of cultivation, except from the monsters of the deep, or peradvenure, a mermaid has sown the seeds with her tiny hands, and they are guarded by the golden dolphin until they spring up and show where they will bloom; while the mermaid sings her song to enchant the mermen that may be passing by into the cavern that she inhabits, there to regale themselves with the nectar that she invites them to partake, while she seeks the dolphin's abode to gather a bouquet of flowers to coquette with. Since^ Thursday we have caught seventeen rats, but that has not diminished their numbers apparently. Monday, the 3d. We are now on soundings and such a change a^ it has made one would hardly believe. Last evening it was so warm as to be very uncomfortable, but before morning it was cold enough for a fire. I have changed my thin clothes for such as will better become this climate. Tuesday, the 4th. This morning has risen upon us under much more favorable auspices than last evening closed, for in- stead of a head wind we can now head our course, but still are "braced up sharp." A little land bird is hopping about the rigging. I suppose that it has been blown off the land and is now glad to find' a place to rest its weary wings. Poor thing, stay with us until W€ arrive in port, and then thou shalt go to thy mate, who must 166 be sorrowing for thee ere this. One of the men has caught the bird and brought it to me. I put it in my workbasket; it did not lie still, but appeared very uneasy. I peeped into the bas- ket and saw its dying struggle ; it fluttered its feeble wings and opened its tin}- mouth, then dropped on its side and stretched it- self and was gone. Gone where? Oh, where? Thursday, the 6th. Here we are banging about with the wind dead ahead and no prospect of getting in very soon. A pilot boat is in sight and B is in a quandary whether to take a pilot or not. The boat has hailed us; what is best to do, take one or not? I say no, we do not want a pilot here two or three days, and surely there is no prospect of getting in at present. "Brig, ahoy! Do j^ou want a pilot?" "I shall take one but pay nothing off shore," was B's an- swer. Thev consulted a moment then said, "Heave to." Ac- cordingly it was done, and a boat put out in a trice and boarded us with a pilot, who appears to be a very civil person, and has a head almost white, but not a particle of gray about it. Friday, the 7th. I awoke this morning and found the brig rolling and pitching about like a mad thing, and as I felt sea- sick 'did not rise till half past nine o'clock. The wind was blow- ing very fresh, the clouds were gathering fast, the barometer falling. Such was the state of matters in the morning; and soon B began to talk of reefing do^^ai and then the drops of rain fell; then such a rummaging all over the cabin for sou' westers, oil clothes, comforters, India rubber Jackets, woolen stockings, etc., — ominous signs. And surely it did set in blow- ing and raining with a heavy cross sea, and the brig nowhere near her course. 0, dear ! When shall we get in ? Saturday. The wind has gone down, and the heavy sea smoothed itself quite nicel}', but we want a fair wind the most of anything at present. Evening. The wind is now fair, but very light. Xo com- plaining with it this way. Sunday, the 9th. We have finally got through the narrows, and anchored in full sight of Xew York. It is rather per- plexing to bo at anchor here, now we are so near, but so it must be. Mondav, the 10th. At one o'clock the wind breezed up enough to fill the sails, and at last we are safe in New York. Evening. Have just taken a cab and driven to the Pearl Street House, there to remain for a few days. I hardly dare trust myself out of my room, for fear of being lost. 167 Tuesday, 11th. There is an Englishman and lady stopping at the house, a fine looking man indeed. The rotundity of his abdomen at once bespoke his nation. I have conversed consid- erably with them. They are traveling for pleasure, and this forenoon have visited the picture gallery, but were disappointed in the paintings, as their taste had been vitiated by previously visiting "the much more splendid ones of Paris." Wednesday, the 13th. The house can lodge between three and four hundred persons, and employs twenty-five girls and quite as many colored men as servants. Their expenses must be great, and well they might be, for they charge a dollar a day for each boarder, so our board will amount to fourteen dollars per week. Saturday, the 15th. I feel rather lonely as I have no ac- quaintance here, and B is gone all day. I walked out to-day, but was glad to come back again, for my shoes pinched my feet so bad that it was almost torture for me to walk. The English j^eople have left for Newport, where they will remain a short time, then return to this place. Sunday. Afternoon. B and myself concluded to go to church, accordingly dressed and walked out, but could find no church that we could find a seat, and after walking through Broadway we returned and spent the rest of the day at home. Monday. I have formed quite an agreeable acquaintance with Capt. Sampson and wife. She is a very sociable lady. It makes it very pleasant to find in our concourse with the world, people with whom we can associate as freely as though they were old acquaintances. Wednesday, the 9th. We are now ready to sail. The car- riage is at the door, and I must eat a mouthful and run. Thursday, the 20th. We are now fairly at sea, with a fine breeze and a cook that knows just nothing at all. B has had to tell him everything that he has done, even to scouring out his boilers and washing his dishes. Friday, the 28th. One week has passed since I wrote any- thing, and during this time have been blessed with a head wind the whole continual time without changing. B has been quite unwell, but is better to-day. The cook is getting along much better than we prophesied upon our first coming out. He can get the meals without help, and appears to be quite neat, and very obliging. It is quite discouraging to be harrassed with head winds all the time, when we wish to make a quick passage. Change, oh thou wind, and blow us along to Sagua La Grande. 168 It is evening, and I have spent the whole of the day at work upon a pocket handkerchief and now ana reflecting how much needless work I have bestowed upon such a trifling article. Oh, what is time — time that is wasted? Sunday, the 30th. No change yet. The wind still ahead, and no prospect as yet of its being otherwise. We came away from New York without procuring any books to read, which T consider a sad misfortune, for those that we have, have been read through and through. B is reading aloud, so I must stop writing or may inadvertantly write what he is reading. Saturday, the 5th. We have a fine breeze now. Abaco lighthouse is in sight; we shall soon be on the Bahama Banks, and shall, in all probability, be over before morning. There are quite a number of vessels in sight ; one that was in company with us two days ago and before night was out of sight ahead', is now some miles astern. Sunday, the 6th. All clear of the banks. Left them this morning at six o'clock. Tuesday, the 8th. Arrived at Sagua this day at twelve o'clock. Saturday, the 12th. It is an exceedingly warm morning; scarcely a breath of air is stirring, and the thermometer stand- ing at eighty. This is a very lonesome place, not but two buildings in sight. No society, excepting from the vessels, which are lying at anchor. I do not expect to see a female while here. Nor to step my foot on shore. Pleasure did not induce B to come to this place. His society induced me ; were it not for that I and old Neptune would cut acquaintance at once. Our crew are a very troublesome set; two of them are boys, and the two older ones do all in their power to make them bad, I think. Friday, the 2 2d. I have neglected writing for a long time, during which time several things of importance have occurred. Last Sunday night B was taken out of his head ; which was oc- casioned by his being in the sun too long. He was so violent that we thought best to send for Capt. Davis and Capt. French. It took three men to hold him; but the paroxysm did not last long. They tried to bleed him, but could not succeed, owing to a very dull lance. The next morning Captain Davis succeeded in getting nearly a pint from him, which relieved his head im- mediately. I am happy to say that now he is almost as well aii usual. 169 There are now two American ladies in the harbor, one of them I have not yet seen, but expect her on board to-morrow. It is rather lonely here. I have not seen a female belonging to this place yet, and probably shall not at all. Sunday, the 24th. Onr vessel is now piled up on deck sky high, there being scarcely room to get out and in of her. I am almost sick, and feel as though lying here a few weeks longer would nearly finish nue. I hope we shall sail before another Sunday. The air is thick; my spirits are at a very low ebb. Oh, dear ! What shall I do ? July 4th. We are now leaving the port of Sagua. This morning at daylight, six captains with their boats' crews, came on board to help us off, which looked very kind indeed, and soon we weighed anchor and were off. Sunday, the 11th. We are now as far north as Cape Hatteras, and think that one week more will carry us to New York. It is not very pleasant to be loaded with sugar and molasses; the smell arising from it is very annoying. Everything in the cabin is entirely covered with a whitish coat, which, with the smell of the gas made by the heated sweetening, is at times almost intolerable; but I hope that the worst of it is now over, as we are in much colder weather than we have been. The thermometer three days ago stood at 92 in the cabin where the sun does not shine for the day, and on the top of the house it was impossible for me to hold my hand without blistering it. I have not much to amuse me now, as I have nearly com- pleted the quantity of work that I allotted myself to perform so I sit^on deck and watch the eary birds skipping gracefully over the waves, just touching lightly the glassy surface with their tiny feet, watching for something, which, peradventure, the vessels may 'drop in their progress over the world of waters. It is a matter of wonder to me how these little creatures live; ever on the wing as they appear to be. Where do they make their nests, and where hatch their young? I have seen them more than a thousand miles from the shore, and wondered if they were ever tired; or if, when night came, they had no place to rest their weary little wings. I should much like to learn the history of these birds, or Mother Gary's chickens, as they ai^ called. Thursday, the 14th. We have made our passage in ten days, which is much sooner than I calculated upon when we left Sagua, and are now lying within speaking 'distance from the wharves of New York. 170 Voyage from Portland to Havana, January 16, 1848. Sunday, the 16tli. We left Thompson's hotel this morning, where we had comfortaly spent four weeks, and took a cab to Central wharf ; from thence stepped into a boat and were soon on board of the bark Agenora. The wind being light, we did not get under way until afternoon, when all sails were set, and we bade farewell to our native hills, and proceeded upon our voyage. Monday. We have had quite a comfortable time so far, and I have not experienced the horror of seasickness yet. I have arranged my workbasket before me, so if I should feel a dispo- sition to work I could do so. Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday. For three days I have been under the influence of old N^eptune, I suppose, for I have been continually casting up my accounts. Oh, dear! Oh, dear! Sunday. Pleasant and a fair wind, but the Agenora is a dull sailing vessel and leaks badly. Monday. A fine breeze and we are going along comfortably. Saturday. We are now near the Hole in the Wall, and hope to see it before night. Last night we spoke a ship from Havre bound to Orleans, the first vessel that we have spoken since we came out. I think she sailed well, for in seven hours from the time we first saw her, she passed us and was soon far away. Monday. We are upon the Bahama Banks, and there is not so much water as u,*iual. o February 2d. Wednesday. Here we are fast aground upon the banks and the tide is leaving us, and only two fathoms of water. Thursday, the 3d. We fortunately got off without difficulty, which was more than we expected to do. Friday. Nothing but head winds since Monday, and there is quite a fleet of vessels at anchor, ready to improve the first fair wind. Saturday. At last a breeze has favored us. Sunday. We are now in sight of Matanzas, and hope to be at Havana to-morrow. Monday morning. A nice breeze and we are going along finely. Afternoon. We are now at anchor after a passage of twenty - one days. It is much colder than I ever felt it in the West In- dies before, and I do really need a shawl to make myself com- fortable, arid my feet are almost frozen. A cold norther is the cause of all this. 171 Thursday. An officer has just come aboard, to stay, I suppose, until we are discharged. He is sitting in a chair where B sat him, minutely scrutinizing everything he sees around him. I suppose that he cannot speak English, so I will not attempt to talk with him. B seems to be very busy to-day. Sunday, the 12th. This morning I rose quite early and went with B to market, and such a hubbub and jabbering; we pur- chased lettuce, tomatoes, plantain, green corn, radishes, garlic, peppers, beef. Evening. A beautiful moonlight evening, but there is a tre- mendous wind which makes the very rigging whistle right out. There is music ashore, drums and fife, and I don't know what not. I presume that there is a play at the theater, or a bull fight or something of the sort to desecrate the Sabbath. I don't know how long we shall lie here ; business is exceed- ingly dull, and the harbor is full of vessels. The times look discouraging. Friday, the 17th. Last evening went ashore in company \ with Captain Frank Soule and lady, and' Captain Harding. We walked through the governor's yard and heard the music, then partook of ice creams and waited for our boat, which did not come to the right place for us through a mistake. I feel very lonely at times, especially when B is ashore. I should be glad to spend more time than I generally do on shore, for it is very little use to go to a place, unless we can have the privilege of walking around and seeing all there is to be seen. I should judge by what I have seen, that this is the finest city among the West Indies Sunday, the 20th. Frank and wife have come to spend the day witlf us. It is a most delightful morning. The air beau- tifully clear and exhilarating, — ^such is the month of Februajry with us. Afternoon. Captain H wishes us to go and take supper with him, and if all parties agree to it we shall go. They all say go. Monday, the 21st. We all dined on board of the Capt. Hard- ing and spent the evening in singing. A few days ago a slave killed his master by stabbing him. His punishment was to have his head twitched from his body, then to be dragged through the streets, for a warning to all others who should be tempted to do the like deed. Tuesday. Waishington'a birthday. Every American vessel in the harl)or has hoisted all its flags in remembrance of the Father of our Country. We have an invitation to take supper with Captain Sweetser, but B thinks it best not to go. 172 What would our friends at home think to see us dressed in thin muslin, and sitting on a marble bench in the open air, with heads uncovered in the moonshine, for hours without being cold in the month of February? Yet it \s even so; the mild climate here will adlnit of even this now. Our officer has left us, having performed his duty. B spends a considerable part of the day ashore, and I have no one to talk with, which makes me at times very lonesome. Monday, the 28th. A Spaniard has just been aboard. He is a noted smuggler. A fine, erect form, and full black eye, with a large mustache, and a long, deep scar extending from his chin to his ear, complete to my mind's eye, a regular smuggler, and such he was. He enlarged greatly upon the bad laws of his country, and the manner in which the females were kept. They are not allowed to go out in the daytime unless they ride, and even then they must be accompanied by some of their friends ; and they consider it horrible to leave an unmarried female alone in the house, but if she has a married sister with her, whose age is not one-half that of her own, it is all right and proper. Tuesday, the 29th. Mrs. S is here and we think of going to a party this evening on board of Capt. Sawyer's brig. Parties are all the go now. I have been to two, and had several invita- tions, but did' not think it best to go. We did go and a fine time we had, too. There were about thirty there — six Spanish ladies who seemed to enjoy themselves much. March 6th. Yesterday Captain Soule and family came on board to spend the day with us; in the afternoon we all went ashore and took a short walk, then we concluded that we would try a ride in one of the comical carriages of the place. Accord- ingly we stepped into one and away we trotted at a slow pace, with the driver seated upon the horse. He agreed to drive us an hour for eighty cents, and after he had driven us as far as he thought proper, he came to a full stop so we alighted' and walked around and gathered a beautiful bouquet, and regaled our senses with the delightful perfume of the country air. After we had satisfied ourselves with rambling, the old darkev turned his vehicle and we got in, and as we rode back we had one of the most favorable opportunities imaginable to see the fashionables, as they had all paraded themselves in a pub- lie walk to see their new general who was to ride out, and indeed w? met him and his escort. Among other things we saw the masqueraders parading through the streets, some of them were the most hideous looking creatures that I ever saw. 173 Well, after we had been gone one hour and forty minutes, we were landed where we started fri)m, and our driver wanted two dollars for his services. Saturday, the 8th. We are now at Matanzas, where we were ordered to complete our cargo. We started yesterday morning, and arrived this morning. Oh, how I suffered from seasick- ness ; although it was only for a short time, yet it seemed almost as much as human nature could bear. W^hat I am to do during our voyage to Hamburg, I cannot tell, but I am here, and must go, live or die. Thursday, the 23d. This morning at four o'clock got under way; the wind breezed lightly from the land, so we were for- tunate enough to get out, and now we have commenced our voy- across the Atlantic. I feel somewhat different than I did while contemplating it. My fears have nearly subsided concerning the tedious hours which will intervene between the present time and the time of our arrival there. It is so pleasant to-day that one would hardly imagine that the placid and calm waters could ever be lashed into foamy mountains reaching apparently to the very clouds ; but although the sky now looks smiling and the breeze light, yet, before another morning shines upon our head, we may be in the midst of a tempest, such as we never before witnessed. Three o'clock. B has laid himself down to take a little nap, the men are busy securing every movable thing on deck, while I am doing nothing but watching the vessel which started with us this morning, and is outsailing us shamefuly. We are loaded very deep and the vessel's bottom is very foul, owing to our ly- ing so long at Havana. Just after we started I took a look over the stern at the rudder, which was covered with barnacles and long grass. Who wonders if we make a long passage? Not I. April 10th. We have now been out eighteen 'days, and thus far have had no bad weather. We go along slowly and are not yet so far east as the Newfoundland Banks. To-day the weather is fine, and the sea so smooth that I have exercised con- siderably, which is a great relief to me, for I am obliged for the most of the time to keep very still, especially if there is much motion to the vessel. I have had my usual share of sea- sickness since we sailed, and do not presume to think that it is all over yet; if it should become rough and boisterous, I should be sick before two hours had expired. Thursday,, the 13th. We have known but little what bad weather is as yet, and do hope that we shall be so fortunate as 174 to arrive at our destined port in safety. I do sometimes feel very impatient for the time to pass away, but I know that my days will be just so many less. Tuesday, the 19th. This morning we passed a ship home- ward bound. We exchanged latitude and longitude, showed our colors, and then passed on. We have had head wind's a good part of the time since we came out, but now have been blessed with a favorable breeze for the past twenty-four hours, and, if it will only last, how thankful we shall be. I have not much to employ my time about, except reading, and I soon get tired of that; it is uncomfortable reading long at a time while the vessel is in continual motion. April 2 2d. We have a most delightful breeze which has lasted three days. We have gone one hundred and sixty miles the last twenty-four hours, which is very encouraging. Wednesday, the 26th. I have been on deck for the last two hours, and have strained my eyes in every direction to get a glimpse of a vessel, but all to no purpose. We have now been out thirty-five days, and it is not strange that the eye is tired of gazing upon the everlasting waters below, here and there occasionally dotted' with a white sail, and the blue sky above, ''Ever changing, still the same.'' Yes, we are truly a little world of our own; every day the same faces greet us, the same voices sound in our ears, — no change, no variety. The sails are furled and again spread to catch the breeze; yes, even the same wind blows, only occasionaly changing its quarters, still it is the same. Oh, what would I not give for one handful of flowers fresh from the garden? They would be like gold to my senses, yes, far preferable. Friday, the 28th. We are now almost by the Western Islands, and very glad am I. Oh, dear ! how the bark is pitching, almost enough to jump one's eye teeth out and I am sick. Saturday, the 29th. We have just spoken a Bremen bark whose deck was covered with passengers. It was a cheering sight to come in full view at once of so many human faces. After being so long shut out of the world, it did create quite a sensation in my breast to see the freight of human souls. They waved their handkerchiefs and made such a noise that it was impossible to distinctly hear what their longitude was, although B was quite anxious to ascertain whether his chromom- eter was right or not. They passed quickly by, and were gone. So it is with things on the ocean, — we have but a momentary interview and part. 175 May 2d. This morning at eleven o'clock we spoke a French ship bound to Havre. As we are nearing the English Channel, we see vessels quite plenty. 1 hope that we shall be on sound- ings to-morrow if the wind stands where it is now. There seems to be some prospect of our getting over the broad At- lantic at last, although we are yet a thousand miles from Ham- burg; but if we can only see the land it will be quite a treat, after seeing nothing but sky and' water for six long weeks. But as we have been blessed so far by not experiencing any se- vere gales^ I will not murmur nor complain if we do have a long passage. Friday, ithe 5th. Yesterday morning sounded and found bottom, which was quite a satisfaction, after being so long where no bottom can be obtained. Saturday, the 6th. At two o'clock saw the land, and it is surely very pleasant to see once more Mother Earth, if it is not my native land. I often, in childhood, when studying geography, have found Lizard's Point, and little did I think that my eyes would ever behold it, but it now lies before me. We have just received the intelligence that the river Elbe is blockaded, which, being true, I suppose we shall not be able to proceed to Hamburg. We shall not, however, put much confidence in the pilot's report until it is better verified. Now we are slowly proceeding on our way up the English channel, and seven hundred long miles yet we have to go. Monday, the 8th. It has been almost entirely calm for two 'days, and we do not get along much. The season is much farther advanced here than in Maine. Somje men came from the shore yesterday, and informed' us that they had been done planting tor some weeks, and that potatoes were up quite high. They brought us some greens, among which was a cauliflower. 10th. Yesterday a pilot boarded us and confirmed the re- port that the river Elbe was blockaded by producing a paper stating that it was to take place on the ninth. Saturday, the 20th. , We have had a pilot on board' eight days, and are now within twenty miles of the mouth of the Elbe, and have not been stopped yet, although we have seen a ship of war. The present prospect looks favorable for our get- ting to Hamburg, although we may yet be disappointed. Sunday, the 21st. We are now at anchor at Cuxhaven, at the mouth of the Elbe. It is a very pretty country-looking place; the trees and fields are as green as green can be ; the houses are much in the stvle of our countrv houses, and I do reallv feel as though I was almost at home again. Won't it be delightful to 176 tread the earth once more, after being driven about lilce Noah's dove for sixty days? Afternoon. It has been rather an exciting day through- out. In the morning we exchanged our English pilot for a river pilot, who stayed with us about two hours; then a boat came from the shore for him leaving another in his place, whom we are to keep until we arrive in Hamburg. Now we are going along at a fine rate and will soon be there. This morning when I awoke the nightingale was warbling out his sweet song, and the river presented a most delightful appearance as we sailed along; the banks were covered with flowers of every hue. 22d. Arrived at the city of Hamburg this morning; then took a cab and drove to Madame Lethany's to board. She is an old lady, living quite by herself with the exception of two gentlemen boarders, and her servant, who is the neat- est little body imaginable. She wears a neat white cap which quite covers her head, and a spencer of blue fitting her form perfectly, and a skirt of different color trimmed with velvet around the bottom. On the whole, she is as prim a body as you would wish to see, and 'does all kinds of labor, from black- ing men's boots to carrying water and splitting wood. The madame is quite old, but vain as a young girl. She wears her caps trimmed with light blue and her bonnet trimmed with straw color and blue. She talks quite good English, which is very convenient. Capt. Taylor and wife board here with the old lady, which makes it very pleasant for us. To-day we rode out arid took a view of this beautiful citv. The environs are most taste- fully laid out; never did I see so much pains taken to beautify any place as is here taken. The whole is like one garden adorned with trees and flowers. Saturday. To-day 'dined with Mr. Sloman, our shipbroker. He is a very wealthy man. We sat at the dinner table two hours, then rose and took a walk in the garden, then drank our tea, arid the coach came for us and we returned home. Sunday. Dined with Mr. Taylor, an acquaintance which we have made since we came here. We spent the time very pleas- antly. Sunday is a holiday here. They intend to work as much as upon any other day. Sunday, June ith. We are again invited to dine with Mr. Sloman, but as it is Sunday I rather stay at home. These long dinner hours do not seem like American Sabbaths. 177 The madame is quite busy preparing dinner, and Katrine is doing the chamber work. I have dressed myself to receive callers. We have made quite a number of acquaintances since we have been here, which is not often the case in a strange place. 8th. We have now paid our board bill and are ready to depart. I am not sorry that we shall soon leave this place. 9th. We are now going down the Elbe with one hundred and thirteen passengers, seven of them in the cabin, the rest be- tween decks; they are of all ages from the infant six weeks old to the man of sixty. They 'did not like the division line veiy well, for they had all mixed together before we went on board, and frequented the cabin as often as they pleased. Saturday, the 10th. The passengers are sick and keep below. Those in the cabin try to brave it out. Thursday, the 15th. We now are in the straits of Dover. The passengers are as brisk as bees, some knitting, some play- ing cards, others at dominoes. The children seem quite happy. Forty of our number are Jews, and ten of them must have their victuals cooked by themselves, because they will eat no swine flesh. Saturday. The wind is now 'directly ahead, so that we have made but little progress since yesterday. One would think us a little world by ourselves, if they could only get a peep at us as we are. Some are sitting in groups conversing upon some subject which is quite amusing, I should judge, by the roars of laughter which occasionally burst from them, but I can only judge of the subject by watching their motions, as I do not yet know ten words of German. W^e have a couple on board who have only been married three weeks; notwithstanding the shortness of the time which has elapsed since they have been bound in Hymen's silken chain, they quarrel every day, and yesterday the young wife gave her lord a slap in the face, because he refused to obey her commands. This hasty act resulted in a determination of both parties to separate by mutual consent, After some hours had elapsed the wife repented herself of the act and wished for a reconciliation, but the husband was stubborn and deter- mined not to overlook such tyranny in his wife. Night came on ; the wife came on 'deck to see her husband and after some searching found him. They went by themselves; talked for some time and finally became friends and retired. Soon, however, B was called to her. She was in a hysterical state, sometimes laughing, then crying, then convulsed. All this 178 brought on by a quarrel with her husband. After a pretty liberal application of cold water, arid a sedative medicine, she fell asleep. Saturday. Head wind and no news, — excepting Mr. Skilling, the first mate is making love to one of the passengers. The girl (foolish thing) thinks he will marry her; but if not it will break her heart. Oh, dear ! Wednesday, the 21st. Since I wrote the above I have as- certained that the mate is not making love, but the girl is desperately in love with him, and thinks she shall die if he does not marry her, but he intends nothing of the kind.. We have a variety of scenes daily. At one time, perhaps a desperate quarrel, next a love song accompanied by the guitar — again, a man may be seen walking deck with a pipe three feet long, arid a bag attached to the buttonhole of his coat contain- ing tobacco. We are now in sight of the Scilly islands, and if the wind continues favorable shall soon be clear of the land, and upon the wide ocean. June 30th. The last week we have had head winds all the time, but now we are blessed with a fair one, which is carrying us gloriously along over old ocean. Oh, for a quick passage to the land of my fathers. July 4th. Head wind and nothing else all of the time. Oh ! that we were in our native state this dav to celebrate the national independence of our Union. July 10th. The wind still ahead, and the prospect looks dark and gloomy. We are destined to a long passage surely, but as we have plenty of company, the time does not seem quite so tedious as it would otherwise. Some of the cabin passen- gers are very good company, although they speak but poor English. Not a day passes without a game of whist. The forfeiture is one cent if they get beaten. A calm ; the wind blows ahead, then it dies away and breezes up again the same way. Since we left Hamburg we have had the studdingsails set but three days, and now we have been out forty-eight days. July 23d. I do not feel well to-day and am in very bad spirits, for this reason, that we have nothing but fog and head winds continually. Our passengers are in good humor, and for the most of the time very cheerful. I think that our voyage is not yet near an end, if this head wind continues. One of our number is an old Jewish rabbi. He, with his wife and children, will eat no swine flesh, arid dare not eat 179 victuals that have been cooked near where pork has been. He is a preacher, but if I were to judge from appearances, I should say that he is of a very low order. Their prayers consist of ceremonies without words, as far as I can ascertain ; in the morn- ing they may be seen winding a leather strap around their arm and making motions with their heads; — this is praying. We are not far from Halifax and a good wind would soon carrv us to Xew York, but with this wind we shall be till next December on the ocean. August 6th. We took a pilot last Friday and have not yet arrived. This morning the wind being fair, the passengers dressed themselves up in their best, thinking that we should soon be in (America as they say), but soon the wind changed directly ahead, and now we are a long way from the Highlands. The Jews' KSunday come^ on Saturday, and consequently they cook nothing from Friday night until Sunday morning. This morning the old rabbi was waiting for his turn to cook, and at last he and his wife and daughter undertook to whip a young Jew, because he did not let him have the galley when he wished; but as fighting is not allowable, they were separated after several blows were given. If this is a specimen of a Jew- ish rabbi, oh dear ! ! There is certainly a very peculiar sensation in returning to our native land after being separated from our homes and friends for months. Who knows what changes may have taken place since we left, who that our hearts hold dear may now be with the silent dead? There is a dread as well as a pleasure in returning to our homes. 7th. Arrived this evening, and oh, how much rejoicing on board of >our good old bark to think that we are safe in America at last. Tuesday, the 8th. Have been on shore and have spent the evening at the Pearl Street House with my brother and wife. Friday, the 18th. This morning at nine o'clock the bark was hauled up on the screw dock to be coppered, and the men soon commenced work, and now it is six and they will soon be done and oS. we will go again. One hundred men at work un- der the vessel's bottom makes a great noise, — pound, pound, pound', all of the time. But it will soon cease, and I shall be glad. September 2d. This day left New York for Limerick, Ire- land, with a most glorious breeze, and with our vessel loaded deep with corn for the hungry people. 180 September 3d. We have our good wind yet, and as long as iti continues this way I shall not be sick. Wednesday, the 7th. Exceedingly monotonous. The wind is so light that we are scarcely moving at all. How cheering a good breeze would be. Saturday, the 9th. The wind is very light but there is a very bad sea heaving in from the southeast, which looks rather ominous. We are on the lookout for a blow. Sunday morning. The wind has commenced blowing a per- fect gale. Twelve o'clock. The bark is now lying to under close reefed maintopsails, and the sea is running quite high. It blows tremendously; occasionally a large sea boards us and fills the lee side ful}. Ezra and myself are sitting quietly in the cabin, he without any fear at all, singing quite cheerfully. I am thinkmg. Evening, nine o'clock. The wind has abated, and the bark is now before the wind, but we are rolling back and forth at an a'w^ful rate. No com^fort for me this night ;although I am wedged in my berth with pillows on both sides, of me, still I roll. Monday, the 11th. This morning arose after a most wretched night, and was quite surprised to find that it was al- most calm. Soon B commenced putting sail upon the vessel; we took breakfast, and immediately the wind commenced blow- ing at a most furious rate, and before sail could be taken off, her lee side was all under water. Such a sight ! She lay down just like a dish when we dip it full of water. It seems almost impossible for the masts to stand this horrible gale; her lower vards are in the water. It blows as hard as I have ever witnessed it in my sailor life. It makes my nerves, as strong as they are, quiver to see the men up to their necks in water, hauling the ropes, should they lose their hold they are gone. Xew sails and a strong vessel are now our only hope of safety. The cook, a grinning old darkey, is in extraordinary good spirits; the gale seems to increase his activity. Afternoon. The gale has somewhat abated, but still it blows extremely hard. We are still lying to under a small part of the spanker and a tarpaulin in the mizzen rigging. The sea still comes over us, filling the vessel so full that we are obliged to keep the forward doors closed, and the only egress is the little dodgehole in the after part of the cabin. I have just had a short nap while in the midst of the boiling surges of the 181 ocean, and awoke not at all refreshed, wondering why I dared to go to sleep. Tuesda}^, the 12th. The wind and sea have gone down a little, and now we are progressing on our way with some pros- pect of a tolerably comfortable day, although the vessel rolls very badly, and there is so much water on deck that it is im- possible to go back and forth without getting wet feet. Such feelings as we on board of this little bark have, you who live on the land can never know. Wednesday, the 13th. During the night the sea has gone down, and now we have a most beautiful wind, going at the rate of six miles per hour. We are now on sounding on the Newfoundland Banks, and it is so cold that I am obliged to keep my shawl, on and have cold fingers at that. Friday, the 15th. Nothing of importance to note down to- day. The wind is not favorable, and consequently we are not advancing as fast as we have done for the last two days. My canary bird, which the mate presented to me, has ceased to sing since its companions are taken from the vessel (for we had three on board all the way from Hamburg) ; now it sits silent all day in its cage. It is a very pretty bird, and I am ex- ceedingly sorry that it has lost its song. Poor thing ! Tuesday, the 20th. We have had a fair wind every day since last Wednesday, and are now in the longitude of the Western Islands, and within eight hundred miles of the river Shannon, and if we are favored with this wind six days more, I hope that we shall see old Ireland, which will be a very quick voyage across the Atlantic. The cook seems to be a funny old fellow. He has spent forty years on the ocean, and appears to understand all the crooks and turns of a seafaring life. His feet have been bare ever since we sailed. I think that he feels much younger than when on the land. He is as quick motioned as many are at sixteen, although in all probability sixty winters have passed over his head. 26th. We are now within eighty miles of Ireland, and a strong head wind seems determined to keep us here at pres- ent. However, we ought not to complain at this, as we have had a fair wind the most of the time. Friday, the 30th. Still beating to the windward. Yesterday morning saw the rugged coast of Ireland rearing its hills to the sky. This makes twenty-seven days from land to land, and if this head wind still continues we shall not get in for some 182 time yet. It is rather aggravating to be so near and have the wind keep us off. October 2d. Yesterday we entered the Shannon at six in the morning and proceeded slowly along the river. I was truck by the barren appearance of the hills, — scarcely a tree to be seen. Even at this early period our eyes are distressed at the poverty of the poor wretches who come off in the boats with the pilots. They have scarcely a covering for their backs. October 3d. Last night came to anchor and this morning got under way at five. The scenery looks rather more invit- ing than yesterday; occasionally a tree is to be seen. The land is divided into small patches, which the landholders rent at enormous prices to the poor people. Thursday, the 5th. By the aid of a steamboat we are now lying in what is called the Pool, and have commenced discharg- ing. I do think that Limerick is a pretty place, as near as I can judge from where we lay. Many of the buildings are very fine, and were it not for the miserable laws which the people are subjected to, they certainly might compete with any nation in the world. We have the custom house officers on board, who appear to be very civil men, indeed, and one of them very intelligent. He appears to regret the state of affairs in his country much, and in truth they all do, and would glady have a change were it in their power; but they cannot support a war, so they must endure the present existing evils. October 17th. We have been here some time now, and I have had a good opportunity of ascertaining the state of af- fairs in this poor country. The poor people are in a wretched condition and at present there appears to be no prospect of a change. The crops are cut off, and grain is very high, so that the lowest class cannot get it, and are obliged to beg or steal, which they will do if in their power. Yet, they appear thank- ful for the smallest crust you give them, and will bless you in one continual flow of blessings and prayer as long as you will listen to them. Yesterday I had a visit from the lace girls (who, by the way, often trouble me) importuning me to purchase of them against my will and inclination. "Now, I will let you have this beauti- ful dress at a bargain, and if you will take it, we will be pray- ing for 3'Ou all your passage!" But they could not prevail and left me. • 17th. This morning we have finished discharging and shall be ready for sea to-morrow, and hope to have a fair wind. 183 Thursday. We are now going out of the Shannon with a fair wind and shall soon discharge the pilot, and proceed to sea, bound up the straits to the Island of Sicily. November 2d. This morning I awoke early and went on deck and found we were fairly in the straits, and entirely becalmed. There are many vessels in sight in the same situation as our- selves. The land is high, reaching to the clouds; the moun- tain tops are now shrouded in a soft, white mist. Here and there a cliff projects beyond the rest in bold relief, — this, with the sea as calm as if asleep, presents a beautiful scene to one whose eye is tired of the raging ocean. Saturday, the -ith. We are still becalmed and have advanced but very little since we passed the straits; however, we do hope to get a wind, and arrive at our destined port in safety. Were it not for this hope, we should be entirely discouraged. Monday, the 6th. Throughout the day there has not been wind enough to fill the sails. The sky has been as calm and peaceful as at mid-summer. The sun went down gloriously, lighting up one-half of the ocean, which looked like one sheet of burnished gold. The men have cleaned up the deck, coiled up all the rope, and "swept up." The cook has given us all our suppers, so now I suppose he is eating his meal, which, by the by, he does but once a day (so he says). He is a good natured negro, has always a grin ready, and in fact is quite entertaining. Be- ing an old sailor he can spin a good yarn. The birds from the land have come on board of us to-day, and puss caught one poor little thing and after playing with it for sometime she devoured it ; a dainty morsel I suppose it was to her as we have no mice. She appears to gain friends, which was more than I anticipated when she first came on board. No one seemed to notice her in any other way than with a kick or a blow; now she is even allowed to take a seat in the cap- tain's lap, and occupy it as long as she pleases. But she seems to have a great propensity to eye my canary when its cage is hung outside the cabin, and upon two occasions she has made the attempt to take the bird from the cage. If she should do it, woe be to her ! However, I take the precaution to shut the bird up in one of the staterooms. November 7th. A beautiful evening such as we often have in August at home. It is just warm enough to sit in the moon- light without a bonnet. I have been pacing the deck fore and aft and talking with the cook, who was washing his dishes by 184 moonlight, then chatted' awhile with the mate, who appears lost in thought, gazing at the calm sea and bright stars reflected upon its glassy surface glittering like diamonds. He is a per- son very retiring in his manners, and I do find it very difficult to converse with him, yet, notwithstanding all this, we like him very much. The second mate, on the contrary, is very talkative, and if a person is disposed to listen, he will talk as long as you like. Ezra is studying his lesson, and is now ready to recite it to me, which he does every 'day. No wind yet of any consequence. Wednesday, the 8th. Last evening a light breeze sprang up and we went along through the night at the rate of four knots. This morning it freshened up and has lasted through the day, so that I hope we shall not be becalmed again. It is now seven o'clock in the evening and a counterpart of last evening, with this addition, that the moon is upon the increase, and more light is reflected upon the sea, — yes, the Mediterranean sea and we are now near the cluster of islands called Majorca, Minorca and Iviza, which I have often puzzled my brain to remember when a schoolgirl, little dreaming that I should ever be so near them as I now am. Yet, I must allow that I did at times have a presentment that I should travel, and perhaps should meet with somebody more than persons in my situation ordinarily do. My anticipations are in a measure fulfilled. The wind has been very baffling since we entered the straits, sometimes for a while fair, arid the next half hour ahead, then back again in the same place. Last evening we were going slowly along with square yards, and upon looking ahead we saw a brig coming towards us with her yards as square as ours ; we were not a mile apart. However, when she came abreast oi us she was obliged to leave her fair wind behind, and to brace up, which we were quite willing that she should do. Thursday, the 9th. Arose this morning at six o'clock, dressed and washed myself, then took my position in the door- way, watching Mr. Skillings and his watch with their stock- ings off arid their pantaloons rolled up to their knees, washing decks, a ceremony which they go through every morning.* As I was amusing myself looking at them, I cast my eyes to the sky and saw that its peaceful look was in a measure stirred, and something like a scowl was gathering there. Well, in fifteen minutes from this time every person was called, and orders were given to clew up, haul in the studdingsails, which 185 were all set and lay aloft, rig in the booms, furl the topgal- lantsail, reef the topsails. "Two reefs or one?^' asked the mate. "Two/' was the answer. "Aye, aye, sir !" And they reefed them and came down. "Now brace up the main yard, topsail yard, topgallant yard !" "Well." Foreyard topsail, and topgallant yard !" "Well, all well,"etc. And such a con- fusion, the decks all covered with ropes; everyone hauling here and there. The wind came up before all was snug, however, it did no damage, but has blown pretty severely all day, which is the first wind that we have had since we entered the straits. Friday, the 10th. During the night the wind moderated and the reefs were shaken, out and this morning the same scene was acted over again. When the men came from aloft the two mates had some hard words which did not result in blows, but the second mate said that he would not be imposed upon, and Mr. Skillings said that if he did not pass the earing right next time, he should do it over again. But B finally called the second mate to do something, whereupon it ended. Saturday, the 11th. We have had a fine wind all night and are now seventy-two miles nearer to Palermo than last night at eight o'clock. We expect to • see the island of Sardinia at four o'clock if the wind continues. Sunday, the 12th. A fine wind. The Island of Sardinia is on our quarter and Palermo not three hundred miles ahead ; so we go along, with square yards and all studdingsails set, at the rate of nine knots. This is the kind of sailing that suits me. B has laid down to take a nap as he was up last night until t\YO o'clock, we being near the land, he, with his natural anxiety could not sleep, so he paced the deck all the time, whiffing away at his. cigar, his greatest consoler in times of ex- citement. Such is the effect of habit upon a nervous and excit- able system. Monday, the 13th. This morning at six o'clock the Island of Sicily was all in sight, and now the men are getting the chains on deck v/hich looks like getting somewhere. A nice breeeze is carrying us swifty to Palermo. Afternoon, four o'clock. We can now see the entrance to the harbor, but the wind has died away so we are making very slow progress. . The land is exceedingly high and' rugged, and the sides of the mountains look as though they were severed from some mighty mass, by some convulsion of nature. Evening. We are at anchor and the city lies before us with its thousand lights glittering like diamonds. The night 18(3 being overcast makes them more visible. A boat came along- side in which was an American captain from Limerick. He informs us that we shall be quarantined twenty days. Oh! it is horrible to think that we must lie here so long without be- ing permitted to go ashore, or on board another vessel. How- ever, we shall ascertain to-morrow, and if it really be the case, we must abide by it I suppose. Tuesday, the 14th. This morning arose early to take a look at the place. It is surely a very good looking place, situated at the base of high and rugged mountains, which look like anything else but cultivation. The city appears large, and innumerable spires, turrets and domes rise every way that the eye turns. The buildings are of stone, and I should judge from the appearance, at this distance, that they are very fine, but would, to the eye of the Xortherner, appear much finer if painted white instead of a muddy yellow. A boat came along side this morning and brought us fresh meat, potatoes and a basket of fruit, consisting of apples, pears and some bunches of the most beautiful grapes imaginable. Soon after break- fast B went ashore to ascertain our fate as to quarantine, etc., and soon returned, saying that for twenty-one days we must lie here without even permission to go ashore, then have thirty days to load after that. The sails are unbent and sent between deck, and the men are very busy mooring the vessel, taking off the chafing-gear, and soon I expect that we shall be painted and look in first rate style. Wednesday, the 15th. This afternoon merely for a change, B and myself got into the boat and went a few yards from the the vessel on to a break-water and got out, but not being per- mittted to go any farther, it was but little satisfaction. Two captains, who are quarantined as well as ourselves, went with us, and while there the guard would not even allow our boats to touch each other. I thought that we might shake hands with Captain French as we were acquainted, but to my astonish- ment we were not allowed to come within three feet of each other. This is downright despotism. Since we have come back I have seen one of the surbordinate guards making a complaint to one higher in power than him- self concerning our three vessels, which I knew by his ges- ticulations. The Italians talk with their hands, and their many motions puzzle me. We have all kinds of noise about us, from the ringing of tihe prayer bell, down to the whistle of the man- of- war^s man. 187 Thursday, the 16th. To-day I busied myself making squash pies, the squash being brought off this morning and put on the quay for us, so Ezra pulled ashore and got them, together with a basket of grapes, which will soon be eaten. It rains incessantly, yet the men are at work discharging bal- last. I feel rather stupid to-day. Sunday, the 19th. Here we lie and no prospect of a change until the twenty-one days are fully expired, nothing to amuse us but to watch the maneuvers of the people on shore, which is no amusement at all. 'Tis true that we can have as much fruit as we wish, and chestnuts as large as small apples, in abundance, but quite tasteless; and in the midst of all this plenty we are discon- tented as long as we are prisoners. A steamboat lies within speaking distance bound to Naples to-morrow, and as much as we wish to visit that place, we are not permitted to go. Monday, the 20th. It being a rainy day, the men are as busy as bees, scouring the vessel all over preparing for painting. B is trying his skill in mixing paint, in order to get a color that suits him. Stone color seems to be his favorite hobby. This morning I had a most splendid bouquet left on the shore for me, it is all of two feet in length, and made up with a gredt many sweet scented herbs, an^ pinks of immense size, and of various, colors. I sit and admire it and smell of it a thousand times over. Wednesday, the 22d. It has been a fine day so all hands but two have been employed in painting, and as for myself, I have been ironing and among other things I ironed twelve shirts, so that by the time that I had finished, I felt quite tired. Palermo, November 24, 1848. After writing my other book through, and seairching all the writing desks over and over for some paper or a lx>ok, all to no purpose, I had nearly given up in despair, when Ezra produced a large manuscript and asked if some paper from that would answer my purpose. I seized it with delight, and immediately formed this book, which I am now christening. We are lying in Palermo with nothing to interest us except the work, which is rapidly progressing during the twenty-one days that we are quarantined. Sunday, the 26th. A dull and rainy day; I feel in a melan- choly mood, — still confined on board the vessel. I am now sit- ting alone by my little stateroom window and listening to the hum of voices on the Mole, occasionally interrupted by the sound of the beating of a drum in the distance, or watching the 188 smooth waters under the stern of the vessel, upon whose sur- face every object that is stirring is reflected in long and wavy lines, which answer for an object for the eye to rest upon when nothing more interesting is at hand. I have said that I was gloomy, yes, gloomy indeed, but ere many years have gone the round's, I shall have paid my debt to Mother Earth and be forgotten, and the things of time go on the same as though I had never existed. And what is it to live? It is to draw our breath, to eat, to sleep and toil for a little of this world's goods, and then die and leave what we have gained for some one to squander. Oh, then, how little should we set our affections upon this world ! Thursday, the 30th. My spirits are much revived since last Sunday and am now in my usual mood. We have but three or four days of quarantine, then we shall soon be loaded and be off. We hope to have a short passage. This morning a small vessel was put in quarantine from the Island of Malta. She is loaded with wine. The laws appear very foolish, indeed, to us, — to quarantine a vessel from a healthy port, but they do it. Monday, December 4th, This afternoon at two o'clock a son of Francisco, B, Ezra and myself, took a carriage and drove around to see the city, in which we saw many fine looking palaces, the former residences of the King of Naples. We rode through one fine street eight miles in length, then stopped at a garden, but it being winter, the flowers were drooping. Notwithstanding this, I gathered a handful of roses and a va- riety of other flowers. After walking for some time, we came to an iron gate which was locked, and our guide, after search- ing for the key some moments in vain, went in pursuit of the gardener and soon returned, bringing him with him. The key was found hanging upon the body of a tree. The gate was unlocked, we entered a narrow, circuitous foot-path, which led through trees of various kinds, until at last we came to a hut, which looked like the residence of some hermit; our guide drew back for us to advance. I stepped upon the first step, and to my surprise the doors flew open and an old friar stood be- us dressed in a long white gown and hood. He bowed two or three times and I stepped back. He withdrew and closed the door after him. We left him and took another path, which led to a similar 'd'welling. We walked to the door, which opened, and there we saw another priest with the Bible open before him. He raised his hand and motioned us away. We looked as long as we wished, and took another path which soon brought 189 Tis to another small hut, but of different construction, and upon the door was written "no entrance." Our guide motioned us to one side, then opening the door an "Old Devil" as B called him, rose from his chair and turned a faucet, which sent a stream of water a number of yards into the air. It would have given us a good wetting, if our guide had not given us the warning to step aside. We looked until we were satisfied at these images which have been- there for many years, and in which time has made great inroads, and which are visited by every American who comes to this place, and which I have heard of since my childhood. Then took our carriage and and drove to a vault of dead bodies, some of which have been there since the year 1636. The vault contains twelve thousand or more bodies. There they stand mouldering away, day by day, — the king, the priest, the citizen, the infant, with the flesh consumed from their bones, but the skin remains for many years; but of some nothing remained but the fleshless skull, with their hollow eye-sockets staring at you with a ghastly, deathly stare: A few are preserved, and they have quite a natural appearance. One little boy I noticed with eyes as bright and sparkling as when living, but the greater part were rapidly decaying. An old friar waited upon us around, and stood ready for his fee at our departure, then came and waved his adieus through the iron railing in the yard as we departed, well satisfied for his trouble. The vault had a very disagreeable sm^ll as we descended, but after we were fairly down the air was much better, and we went around very comfortably as to that respect. On our way to a public promenade, we stopped at a church which w'as built by the King, the most magnificent building my eyes ever beheld. The doors are open every dav until dark, and people are there at all hours of the day saying their prayers. They come in when they are passing to and from their bus- iness and cross themselves with the holy water, arid kneel upon one knee for a moment and are up and off with a clear con- science. The priests w6re there in great numbers, from the boy of eight, to the old, gray-headed man, all dressed in their robes. I have often heard of the influence of this class of per- sons, but never realized how great their power might be until I saw how exceedingly numerous they are in this plac. This closed our acquaintance with Palermo for the first day, and we came on board well satisfied with our ride. Tuesday, the 5th. This afternoon we went to visit a small city situated eight miles from Palermo. Our path being in 190 a zig-zag direction, and up hill, made the distance seem much longer than it really was. In two hours we were near our stopping place, and, being upon an eminence, we had a fine view of Palermo, which is situated at the base of the moun- tain. The background is very level, and entirely covered with olive trees, grapevines and nut trees, interspersed with a neat little cottage here and there, peeping through the thick foliage. The inhabitants of Palermo manufacture their own wine and oil. The prickly pear grows in abundance upon the sides and tops of the mountains as far as the eye can distinguish ob- jects. Many of the people subsist upon them, and in walking through the streets you will see little stands covered with them on every side. They are sold by weight. When we stopped at the city and' alighted from the coach at a church door which we wished to see, the first object that ar- rested my attention was a ruffianly looking fellow coming to- wards me holding in his hand some small pieces of glass, which were gilded, telling me, through an interpreter, that they were some pieces of the church. I put them in my pocket as curi- osities. We then entered and to my astonishment the church was in reality covered with this kind of work, called mosaic work. The pictures of all the saints, and Noah and his fam- ily, were composed of small bits of glass of various colors, and in such forms and set so nicely that they present the most splendid picture imaginable. There were devices carved of wood of every description that the mind could conceive. The altar was of silver, but for fear of intruders it was §o cov- ered that but a small part of it could be seen. However, our guide uncovered enough to convince us that it was really silver. It is six hundred and seventy years since it was finished, but the number of years that it was building we could not as- certain. It strongly reminds me of the description that the Bi- ble gives of the temple, and I presume that many things were made in imitation of it. The brazen candlesticks six feet high, the marble bowl for the holy water, the image of the Savior upon the cross, and of Abraham, and Isaac and Jacob, the curtains of fine linen of red and of blue, the marble steps which led to the altar, all filled my mind with Scripture images. And yet Catholics worship there, and still keep their devotees in the darkness which Christianity will never break until the Archangel sounds his trumpet. We walked through the aisles and before the altar, examining everything that we saw, and the ruffian that gave me the pieces of glass at our entrance, followed us wherever we went. B noticed this and gave him 191 some money, but this did' not satisfy him, and he continued to beg as long as we were in the church. When we left it I thought we were clear of him, but instead of this a dozen more joined him and insisted that we should give them money. Among them was a little girl, perhaps four- teen years old, with an infant in her arm, sick with the small- pox. She came and brought the child close to me, pushing herself almost upon me saying "Give me money," so to get rid of the crowd we went to the coach and got in, but this only the more enraged them. They came around the carriage on all sides with their hands open held to us, and among the rest was the said ruffian, importuning with more vehemence than ever, with the money that B gave him in his hand; almost compelling us to give him more. B brushed that out of his hand into the coach and told the coachman to drive on, but the horses being quite tired could not be urged along at first very fast, so the beggars followed us as long as they could keep up w4th the horses. But soon the driver waked up his horses with his whip and we left the wretched beings to our great rejoicing. After we were some distance from them our guide informed us that this same fellow, a short time since, put a knife to his heart and told him to give up his money, but he happened to have pistols in his pocket, which he showed, and put the rascal to flight. Palermo is in a horrible situation. They have driven the King from them, and now they have no law nor any one to gov- ern them. Not many nights since a murder was perpetrated near where we lay, and it is no uncommon thing to find dead bodies in the streets in the morning. No one cares enough about it 'to inquire into the affair or punish the transgressor. During the revolution the citizens killed in the most horrible manner the policemen of the city, skinning them alive, cutting out their tongues, taking out their hearts, and eating them even while they were quivering with life, and torturing them in every possile manner. The offenders go unpunished. Such is monarchial government when the monarch is dethroned. Friday, the 8th. This morning according to previous com- mands, four donkeys were on the quay, upon which Captain Hutchinson, B, myself and Vincenzo, a guid'e, seated ourselves and proceeded up the mountain called Pelligrino, and in two hours we found ourselves upon the top. Here is a cave with which the following legend is connected. One of the former kings of the place had a very beau- tiful daughter who left her father's house and could never 192 be found. Some supposed that she had drowned herself for her lover, others that she was devoured by wild beasts; but after some years had elapsed, some bones were found in this cave which were supposed to be hers. Accordingly they informed her father that her bones were in this cave. He did not believe it, until a priest dreamed that these were her bones, which was sufficient proof to his super- stitious mind. Sometime after this, Palermo was visited by a plague, and these bones were brought from the mountain and carried through the streets and the plague ceased. This con- vinced the people that she was holy, and /since that time she has been the patron saint of this island. After this the people built a road ^t enormous expense, four miles in length, up the side of the mountain to the cave, and there have built a church, the front of which extends from the cave a number of feet. In this church is an image of St. Eosalie, as they call her, under the altar covered with gold, around which candles are burning day and night, and many persons while sick have prayed to this saint, promising, that if she would restore them to health, they would perform a journey up to the cave on their knees. Others have vowed that if their lives were preserved they would cut off their hair and give it to her, and in a small apartment I saw long braids of hair hang- ing together. We examined all that we wished to see, then seated ourselves again upon the donkey's back and took a cir- cuit around the mountain, over innumerable sharp stones ; not even a foot-path was to be seen. But letting the animals pick their own way they safely brought us to another place where there was a marble staJtue of this saint, but the wind had blown it down and the head was sunk some feet in the earth. The three men contrived to turn it over, and succedeed after some time, in breaking off some pieces of the face, which we put in our pockets, But enough of this saint. The morning being fine, the air cool and bracing, and our spirits considerably elated, the jaunt was most delightful. An occasional slip from the donkey's back afforded much amusement to those who were not the victims. My beast was quite sure footed. If it had not been the case, I would not have run the risk of keeping my seat upon his back while he mounted a flight of steps, ten in number, up which he safely carried me. Never did I think before that I should ride up stairs upon a donkey's back, or through a person's entry, which we did both in going around and coming back. The only incon- 193 venience in this last was, in passing througli the doors, to keep the head low enough to keep clear. But on coming back, the beast would not stir one inch after we came to the steps, until I had dismounted, and glad enough I was, for he nearly fell prostrate in making the attempt. So I think that he showed his wisdom. Our ride down was rather tedious, being so descending, but in two hours we found ourselves at the bottom, and starting our animals into a trot, were soon on board of the bark. In the afternooii we took a coach and drove through the pub- lic streets to see a procession, which was a very imposing sight. I saw more people than I ever saw at one time in my life be- fore. It was a military parade. In one coach I saw a prince wrapped in a mantle wrought with gold, looking as lordly as though there were no other beings worth noticing but himself in the place. Saturday, the 9th. We are nearly loaded, and expect to complete our cargo this forenoon and as I have a little shop- ping to do, I must go this morning. Afternoon. I called with B upon the American consul and saAv liis wife and daughter. The old lady had the appearance of some beauty in her younger days, and even now shows more vanity than her daughter, who is about being married to an officer in the French army. Her mother wished her to show me some of her handkerchiefs, for which she paid ten 'dollars for the embroidering and one dollar for the cloth. They were certainly very beautifully done, but this did not raise her in my estimation. To think that so much money was foolishly wasted ! My stop was not very lengthy, as B was somewhat in a hurry, s'o we bade them good-by, and proceeded to a silk store and purchased what articles I wished for, then drove back and came on board. I have been stowing my things away for a voyage across the Atlantic. When we came on board we found everything all in readiness to haul out, which was done as soon as we dined, and at six o'clock in the evening all sail was set, and a light land breeze favored us, so we slowly moved out of the harbor. As we had 'discharged the second mate, B stood the first watch, and as the evening was fine I walked deck with him until ten o'clock, then retired. Sunday. During the night the wind died away into a calm, so that we made but little progress, and this morning we are still quite near the land, so that unless the wind breezes up, we shall not do much this day. 194 Friday, the 15th. We have been beeahne'd' ever since we came out, and have gained but very little. The Island of Sardinia is now at our right in plain sight, and during the night we have had wind enough to steer the vessel, so that we are encouraged to hope that we shall not always remain in this place. Noth- ing particular has occurred since we left Palermo. What does this indicate? Sunday, the 17th. Last evening a light breeze sprang up to the westward and all studdingsails were set, and' through the night we went slowly along towards our native land. This morning the wind increased, and now we go five and a half miles an hour, according to the log, which was heajved a short time ago. It is Sunday and everything is very still on board. No one makes the least noise excepting our canaries ; they sing very briskly. The cook has lost one of his; he left the cage open and it tried its little wings, and, poor thing, it soared too high, and as it never came back, I suppose it found a watery grave. We have now been out a week and one day, and have made but little progress, but if we can keep this wind we shall see the Rock of Gibraltar before next Saturday night, which will be a very decent passage ; but it is no use to make calculations before- hand to be disappointed, for before one hour has expired, the wind may be ahead. Thursday, the 21st. The fair wind lasted but two days, then it hauled to the westward and has been there until noon to- day, when it shifted to the east and now the bark is showing all her canvas, but as the wind is so light we progress but very little. B has been sleeping all the evening upon the sofa, but just now he rose and walked on deck and took a survey of things, then came back and undressed and retired for the night. Monday, the 25th. A head wind, and not near the straits yet, it is really discouraging; we have been sixteen days out, and still a head wind. I should like to take a peep at the people at home this even- ing, and see if they are all well and spending* their Christmas Eve in a pleasant manner. Oh, the presents that St. Nicholas sent to the little folks if they were thoughtful enough to hang up their stockings for him, — no doubt that Charles, George and William shared his favors largely, as he was their particular friend last year. Oh, what nonsense I have written, and all for the want of something of importance, to pass away the evening. It is merely for pastime that I am now writing, as I am sleepy and 195 do not intend to retire until the bell strikes the hour of nine. There ! It peals out upon the dark night, and the response is heard from the other one that is forward. This is to keep the sailors awake. Wednesday, the 27th. Last evening the sun went down gloriously, the whole western horizon was illuminated with every shade of color. It was a rare sight, and one that almost enchanted me as I stood gazing at it for half an hour after it had sunk in its watery bed. A sunset at sea is more beautiful thaji on the land, but not so with a sunrise, for then there are many surrounding objects w^hich lend a charm to the scene. We are now surrounded with a thick fog, and scarcely a breath of wind to help us along. We have been in sight of the land four days, and becalmed for the most of the time. This is very trying to B's patience, as he wishes to get to Xew York in less than sixty days, which is the time set by the charterers. He says that he wishes that he had been drunk before he took this freight. Friday, the 29th. The fog has left us and in its stead' we have a fine breeze from the eastward, which, if it continues two Saturday, the 30th. This morning the Rock of Gibraltar days, we shall be through the straits. was in sight, but the wind died away ayl we have had scarcely a breath of air to-day, and thus are but very little nearer the straits than we were this morning. Such is the uncertainty of everything. If we could manage the wind ourselves, it would always be in our favor, I suppose; but this not being the case, we have to submit to a wiser power than our own. Sunday, the 31st. At twelve in the night a light breeze sprang up, which started' us slowly. Towards morning it in- creased to an eight knot breeze, which has carried us through the straits at last. Wednesday, the 3d. The weather has moderated so that the reefs are shaken out, but we do not go within three points of our course. Thursday, the 4th. Still a strong breeze and occasionally a squall strikes us so violently that the topgallant yards have to be lowered to ease the mast. We have now made three degrees southward since we left Gibraltar. For the last two hours we have been in company with a brig under double reefed topsails, on the same course as ourselves, but we are passing her, and hope soon to leave her astern. Saturday, the 6th. We are pitching and rolling the worst kind with the wind ahead, and the Canary Islands under our 196 « lee. Disagreeable situation ! Yet no help for the poor, care- worn mariner; bear it he must. Sunday, the 7th. Rose at five o'clock this morning, weary enough after a miserable night's rest. I was cradled' upon the tops and in the hollows of the waves all night, and visited with dreams frightful enough to horrify one, but contrived, not- withstanding all this, to wash and comb up so as to look a lit- tle decent, but the bark did not cease to make her obeisance all the time in every possible manner. B did not sleep last night but stood his watch (which, b\. the by, he often does now, as we have no second mate). During the night he has smoked and chewed so much tobacco, that he looks quite pale and ex- hausted this morning; still he thinks that he does not chew at all. Strange delusion ! Care does not sit lightly upon him. It makes sad inroads in one night. Oh, the people on the land know not how hardly earned a sailor's money is. No ! No. Let them be tossed upon the mountain waves as we have been for the last twenty-four hours, let them be obliged to grasp hold of something to keep from falling every time they move, let them stand up and take the squalls of rain as they come in their fury, and let them go aloft upon the yards and reef the sails, when it seems a thing almost impossible for a man to hold on, much more to roll up the sails, let them take their meals and thrust the food down their throats as quick as possible for fear of its rolling out of their mouths before it is swallowed, then let them lie in their berths and be rolled from side to side with a vehemence which it seems impossible to rest under, — there let them lie, and think you that they will say that their recompense is too much. Monday, the 8th. Yesterday the wind came out from th* northeast, and as it has lasted until to-day, we are encouraged to think that it is the trade winds. Have seen three vessels steering southwest to-day, one of which showed her banner with St. George's cross on it. Our stars and stripes were quickly and proudly run up, then down went his flag and on he passed. Our latitude shows us to be in 30.21 to-day, and going six knots. Thursday evening, the 11th, half past eight o'clock. The wind has proved itself to be what we wished, namely trade winds, but has been very light until this evening, the log being thrown shows us to be going seven and one half miles per hour.. Everything goes on pleasantly this passage. The men are a very peaceable set and willing to do their duty. One man ^ has been laid up with the rheumatism for some days ; we have 197 given him such remedies as we could, but nothing seems to re- lieve hjm. I suppose that he will have to bear it until it leaves of its own accord. Ezra has learned very fast since we left Palermo. Ben- jamin thinks he will make a sailor. He is quite active, and as willing as a boy need be, and seems very anxious to learn seamanship. And as for myself, am about retiring for the night, hoping that we shall have a nine knot breeze in the morning. Saturday, the 13th. Evening, half past seven o'clock. The week has passed away and we are some fifteen degrees nearer New York than we were last Saturday. The wind is quite light, but as we have fine summer weather, we ought not to com- plain. Every day we have a rainbow and little showers, which are not unpleasant in the least. We are now one-third of our distance to New York, and three weeks more will carry us there, if it only blows the right way strong enough. B has curled himself up on the sofa to take a short nap, and I am all alone with nothing to amuse me, and obliged to hear our mizzenniast screech out a most diabolical groan, reminding one of "the — I won't say what." I wish the man that finished it was obliged to sit under it and have that noise in his ear for a few hours and see how he likes it. The bell has sounded out the hour of eight, at which signal the watch has been called. Ezra called the mate the second time and has succeeded in awaking him, and then partaking of a large draught of water and complaining of a headache, has "^turned in" as the sailors say. B has taken a look at things on deck ^nd retired for the night, also, so must I. Sunday, the 1th. According to observation, we have gone since last Sunday morning, one thousand and ten miles, which is an average of six miles per hour, which is the best week's work that this vessel has ever done. This is a very quiet day, no work on.. The cook has paraded his clothes, which consist of a mattress, bed' clothes, jackets, pants, shirts and a hat, out to take an airing. In the said hat were several tracts, one upon tem- perance, which B has taken and is now reading aloud. Monday, the 15th. Since yesterday noon we have gone one hundred and eighty miles, which brings us some nearer our journey's end. The wind is quite fresh and this is what we want. Oh, good wind ! do stay by us until we arrive in New York. Tuesday, the 16th. A fine wind, just as much as we wish since yesterday. The sea has considerably increased, which -I'll. 198 makes it rather uncomfortable for me, as I am, obliged to keep so still, however, this is nothing so long as the wind is fair. Wednesday, the 17th. As B has retired I. will write a few lines to keep me awake, as it is too early to go to sleep yet, for it is not eight o'clock. It has been very smooth during the day, so that I have fried doughnuts, which, by the by, I often do when I want some of my own cooking. However, our old darkey is as good a cook as we often get. Good night ! Friday, the 19th. Moderate, indeed, some of the time scarcely wind enough to steer the vessel, at other times going three miles an hour. At this rate we shall be Liany more days before we get to New York. Saturday, the 20th. Last evening the wind revived a little so that we went slowly along through the night, but this morn- ing I ascertained that we were going nine and a half miles per hour, and have continued to do so through the day, so that the prospect brightens again. This forenoon passed a bark under reefed topsails and topgallantsails furled, while we had never thought of taking in the topmast studdingsail until the tack parted and reminded B that it had better lie on deck for the present. We are now making northings, having been as far south as 27, and doubtless we shall experience some change of weather before long. Monday, the 22d. The wind has changed and fears are en- tertained that 'we are getting out of the trades, which will be bad business for us. Monday, the 29th. One week has passed away since I last wrote during which time we have had hea'd' winds and calms, but notwithstanding this, we are now as far north as Bermuda, and within six hundred miles of New York, and are now mov- ing slowly along with square yards, about four miles per hour. One vessel in sight. The weather is fine as we could wish, so warm that the men are bare-footed and in their shirt sleeves, about their work. Such is our winter so far. Wednesday, the 31st. The last day of the month. The wind' is now ahead and no prospect of a change. February 2d. No observation for three days, being dark and rainy. Sounded this afternoon but did not get bottom. The wind northwest, the bark under double reefs, it is cold and uncomfortable ; we have a fire in the cabin for the first time since we left the straits. B is asleep on the floor ten minutes of eight o'clock. The log has just been thrown, going four and one half miles per hour, hea'ding north by east, which is not very 199 j^leasing to us, who want to be in New York to-morrow, no, no indeed ! Saturday, the 3d. A cold day; ice has made in the shade during the day. A small sail is visible; B takes his spyglass and looks ; it is a pilot boat, she is bearing down for us ; in a half hour she is within speaking distance. "Do you want a pilot?" "Yes.'' "Back the main yard." 'Tis done. They put out a boat and in a few moments the pilot jumps on board. He proved to be the same man who t(Ook us in when we were from Hamburg. We shall not reach N^ew York this night. Sunday, the 4th. The wind died away during the night, and the anchor was dropped and at six this morning got un- der way again and are now heading for Staten Island, with a little breeze and are in hopes to be in Xew York before night. At two o'clock we arrived safe in Xew York. Wednesday, the 7th. Last evening went to the museum and saw a' man that wa^ over seven feet high; a noble looking fellow with a mild blue eye and a smiling countenance. He paraded around with a lady who was nearly his height, and a nice looking couple they were. Voyage to Havana. March 3d'. Left ^ew York this morning with a fair wind; discharged the pilot at three o'clock, and proceeded to sea. Sunday, the 4th. This day the new president- takes his seat and may his reign upon the presidential chair be as successful as his siege of Monterey. The wind continues fair, and the weather has moderated some. Sunday, 11th. Our cook has proved to be one of the dirtiest fellows in existence ; we could eat nothing with any relish that he cooked. Yesterday B sent him forward and took one of the men in his place. So now Mr. Cook can be seen with the sailors instead of in his galley. Monday, the 12th. Becalmed. Nothing of importance, ex- cepting the dog, Zip, appears to be sick. Friday, the 16th. Arrived this morning and were obliged to anchor outside of the guard boat on account of the winds be- ing light. B soon dressed himself, and went ashore to seek for business. Sunday, April 8, 1849. The holidaj^s commenced Thurs- day, the 12th. We went ashore and saw the procession, which consisted of priests with their heads shaven on the top and 200 ■ dressed in black and white robes, preceded by a band' of music, and followed by the ca-r which carried the ima,ge of Christ to be buried. April 20th. Yesterday completed our cargo, and shall be ready for sea to-morrow morning. April 23d. Left Havana early in the morning with a light breeze, which increased as w^e proceeded to sea. April 27th, To-morrow morning will complete one week of our voyage to Cowes. It is Sunday. Through the night there have been showers of rain, so that the walls and the floor, the bottom of my dress, the chairs, the table, my shawl and the bed clothes and crockery are covered with a damp, disagree- able, humid salt water moisture. The sky is overcast. The pigs, who quarreled all night, are let loose about the deck, looking lank and cross enough. The pigeons are lifted out of their house and have hopped into the cabin, and, having their several portions allotted them, have left their own heap of seed, and quarreled with each other to ascertain which shall eat the whole. The dog being called, drops his ears and trots for- ward as fast as his legs will carry him, and as for myself, I am tired' of the sea, tired of the motion and tired of seeing the ropes, the sails, the spars, the everlasting waters which are bear- ing us on, on. In short, I am tired of myself and will quit. Good night. Monday morning. May 7th. For two days we have had head winds, but this morning it is on our beam, and with it an ex- ceedingly bad sea, which heaves the vessel in every possible di- rection, so that it is utterly impossible to know what is to be our next position. The barometer is falling. We have just dined on boiled beef and potatoes, the dessert being pumpkin pie, which Zip, the dog, is very fond of, and as I am seasick, I do not feel much like eating, nor anything else. Tuesday, the 8th. A bad sea this day, but a fair wind, and through the night we w^nt nine knots per log, which is very good for a deep loaded vessel. I do not feel much like writing, for my ideas are blunted' by seasickness, so that I am capable of producing nothing of importance. The wind astern. This day completes the sixteenth day since we left Havana, and we are now in the longitude of the western edge of the Newfoundland Bank. I hope that we shall be in the English channel in sixteen more days. B is busy reading novels for some days past^ Dombey and Son, etc. It is quite warm for this time of the year, and as we are in latitude 39.30 do not ex- pect to see any ice, at all events hope not. 201 Thursday, the 10th. This morning arose unrefreshed after a night's rocking in Neptune's cradle, and ascertained that we were under double reefs, while the wind was uttering piercing screams through every rope on board, and the sea coming over us filling the waist full, and wetting the men at a shocking rate, and the bark pitching and rolling through the ocean at the rate of nine miles per hour. We are now all clear of the banks, and no appearance of ice. Saturday, the 12th. A fine wind, yards square, all studding- sails set that will draw, and for the most of the time since ves- terday the decks have been clear of water. Ship Pumgustuck, New Orleans, March 24, 1851. We are now lying between two ships, which is more agreeable than being alone, as they in a measure protect us from the mo- tion to which we should otherwise be subjected, occasioned by the continual passing and re-passing of the steamboats. Commenced loading to-day with cotton for St. Petersburg, which will be a long voyage. Nothing in particular worth writing down has occurred since wq arrived here. We have a Qplored cook named Phyllis ; she talks a great deal, but answers our purpose very well. Frances and myself had some ^very pretty bouquets of flowers sent us to-day ; hers was from a mar- ried, and mine from an unmarried man. What does this sig- nify? Simply that the mate of the ship alongside wishes to get acquainted with Frances. April 27th. We have been out almost three weeks and have been favored with fair winds and quite pleasant weather the most of the time, and have progressed equal to our anticipaltions, are within one day's sail of the Newfoundland Banks Few things have transpired since we left worthy of much notice. Mr. Chandler is first mate and a Dutchman second mate, an In- dian cook and a Hottentot stewaTd, all of whom give satisfac- tion at times. It is Sunday, and almost calm, and the usual scene which occurs at sea at such times is now at hand. The sails are flap- ping lazily against the masts and rigging; the ship is on her bottom (which, by the by, is not often the case) and appears to be resting herself; the mate has cleaned himself up for the oc- casion; the captain is arranging something about the wheel. The second mate is not well, and it is his forenoon watteh. George is playing with his dog, and happy as usual ; Frances is reading ; I am writing. 202 Monday, the 28th. A strong easterly wind, the ship is reefed down. At seven in the evening all sails were furled, except the spencer, and so we lay to the wind until morning, when it had so much subsided that at six o'clock commenced putting on sail again. But the barometer has fallen so much during the night, that B thinks that we shall soon have more wind, and we all desire that it may come from a different quairter. It is quitei calm, and George is trying his abiliiJies to make a stir about catch- ing fish. The steward has found some hooks and for the want of a line, operations are suspended for a while. Wednesday, the 29th. This morning the wind changed to the eastward after being to the west for the last eighteen hours, and now things look quite dubious, for the fog and clouds are flying about in all directions. Thursday, May 1st. The wind is still ahead, and the last night we rode out under a reefed maintopsail, the wind being so strong that the ship was completely on her side, which makes it very unpleasant for us who are obliged to sit all day long, and likewise for those who use their feet, on account! of their mak- ing so much lee way. The cabin occupants are busy as usual. B is reading ; Frances is embroidering a cap ; George is making his first attempt at sail making : his father has put his ingenuity tio a lest in making a palm for his little hand ; the dog is trying to make George play with him ; the fire burns in the stove ; the wind howls outside; the ship careens, then rights herself again, and, what now? The cook is splittiing wood'. Friday, May 2d. The wind still ahead and no prospect of a change, excepting that it is quite light, which makes us hope that it may die away and come from another quarter. This week's work is small, and is lengthening out the passage. Dined on baked beans and rhubarb pie. Sunday, May 4th. Easterly wind still keeps us in its power, and hearts on board of the ship Pumgustuck are beating high in anticipation of a change, but the change comes not. Will this wind hold us in its chains another six days like the last? Or will some kind, sweet westerly wind blow from where the Indian believes the Good Spirit dwells? vSunday comes often to us on the ocean, yet we cannot feel the same that we do when we can go to the house of God, for necessity compels many on board of the ship to go through their usual routine of work, and such as are not obliged to work, do it from choice. Such is Sunday at sea. Mondav, the 5th." Calm; not wind enough to steer the ship. 203 Every moment is now spent in the best manner putting the rigging in order, nothing having been 'done as yet since we came out. Tuesday, the 6th. A light southerly breeze and now we move slowly along, which is better than drifting back, as we did yesterday. Wednesday, the 7th. Light wind westerly. This morning quite an incident occurred. The mate saw something to the windward and informed B of it. He took his glass and looked, and said that it looked like a raft, which he thought might have been made by some poor beings to live upon. The boat was lowered and two men with the mate and George started in pursuit of the object. It being but a short distance off, they soon gained it and made fast and towed it alongside. It proved to be a part of a wreck, which must have been in the water a long time by its being covered with innumerable bar- nacles, which were of enormous size and length. There was a school of fish under it so they followed it, and the mate caught a meas which we had fried for dinner. They then hoisted it on board so that the fish were obliged to leave it, but are now following us at the stern. The wood is of some value to burn. Thursday, the 8th. The wind has hauled to its old place to the east, and there is scarcely enough to steer the ship. This a hard case and truly discouraging, now that we are on a long voyage and what is to be done? We cannot tell, as we have had head winds and calms all of the time since we left ]*\'ew Orleans, with the exception of one week. Friday, the 9th. Calm and exceedingly pleasant. The ocean is at rest, with the exception of a gentle swell which rises occasionally and buoys us on its top, then gently glides away and mingles with its fellow waves. Calm and glassy as a mirror is old Ocean. The fish still are at the stern. Frances, the mate and George seem determined to catch some of the little craft. Saturday, the 10th. To-day, the wind to our great joy, came gently but surely from the west, and now we go slowly toward our desired haven. Sunday, the 11th. Now the good ship goes briskly over the briny deep. There is some appearance of rain. Now it comes; perhaps we may catch water enough to wash on Monday. Monday, the 12th. Strong west winds; we are going at the rate of nine knots per hour. Tuesday, the 13th. During the night the mate says that for two hours and a half we went ten knots, but this morning it is almost calm, and we fear that a change will come. 204 Wednesday, the 14th. Surely a head wind and such is our lot in a world of disappointment. Thursday, the 15th. Last night the wind favored us, and the foretopmast studdingsail was set, and we went finely through the night and to-day, going off nine knots. It has rained the most of the time since Sunday. All of our water casks are filled. We have one man sick now in the forecastle, and so it has been for the most of the time since we came out, but as it has happened there has been but one at a time, so that it has caused but little inconvenience in working the ship. Friday, the 16th. We are now counting off the days that will expire before we gain the entrance of the English channel. I calculate that four more days like the last four will carry us there, but how many things may transpire to prevent before that time expires. This morning we had more wind than we wanted ; this afternoon it died away to a moderate breeze. Saturday, the 17th. Things are going on very favorably, and we are all hoping that we shall have a pleasant passage through the English channel. Sunday, the 18th. We go off finely and if this breeze con- tinues we shall make the land to-morrow. Monday, the 19th. Arose this morning after a night of pro- found sleeping, and went on deck a.nd saw a pilot boat ahead. Soon she came alongside as near as it was possible for her to get on account of the wind and waves. B inquired how Scilly bore and received this answer, "Back your main yard." But B did not want a pilot, so on we went and soon the little boat was out of sight astern. Tuesday, the 20tih. This morning we were up to Start light. The wind is very light, but it being right after us and the at- mosphere free from fog, B feels very well satisfied. Pilot boats are plenty. One came alogside in his boat and hailed to know where we were bound, and being informed then wanted to know if we wanted company. B said "Xo !" Whereupon he went off, saying that he hoped that the next time we came we should be glad of company at any rate. Wednesday, 21. Light wind Uirough the night and this morn- ing finds us at Beechy Head. Dull and rainy, so that B feels exceedingly anxious, as we are now approaching the Straits of Dover, which is considered dangerous in thick weather. Yesterday washed and ironed. To-day shall dine on goose- berry pie and cold tongue. 205 Thursday, the 22d. Yesterday passed Dover and now are passing tihrough the straits, so that B finds no rest for himself, day or night. Friday. We are now in the North Sea with very little wind. Fishing boats are plenty; one came alongside and we traded with them for some skates and flounders, the former they praised much. I tasted one morsel of the fried, skate, which was enough. Saturday, the 24th. Head winds all last night, but this af- ternoon it is more favorable, so that the foretopmast studding- sail boom is being shoved out. It is almost entirely still; no noise, either with the vessel nor water. The little tap, tap of the men with their marlin spike is all the noise that is now heard. What a contrast with the roaring ocean ! Sunday, the 25th. Quite a strong breeze, and we are now on Dogger Bank. Nothing of any importance has occurred this day, saving a long nap accompanied with a dream about ^^Home," which was a spirit visitation, no doubt, from the land of my birth. George is having a frolic with the dog, notwithstanding it is Sunday. The sun now sets at half past eight o'clock. The steward has made a roaring fire, w^hich is not uncomfortable to sit by iij these northern latitudes. Monday, the 26th. How easy it is for us poor mortals to be disappointed. This morning promised a fine day's work, as we were going eight and a half knots at breakfast time, but be- fore dinner it was almost calm, and this afternoon we have ac- complished mere nothing. Such is our lot. We are now near the coast of NorM^ay, and if we can get a breeze we shall be in the Straits of Skager-Rack. Tuesday, the 27th. No wind during the night, not enough to steer the ship, but to-day at twelve a light breeze sprang up from the westward, and now at seven we are going eight knots per hour. The Skaw lighthouse is in sight. The coast of Jutland has been in sight all of the afternoon. Several churches are to be seen with their high roofs, which show the inhabitants to be church-going people. Wednesday, the 28th. So we have passed the Skager-Rack and Cattegat, and now we are at anchor at Elsinore. B has gone ashore to enter and clear, and soon will be back again. He soon came accompanied by a pilot, with some fresh beef, (a quarter of an ox), eggs, milk, turnips, carrots, etc. The 206 order soon rang out "Heave up the anchor/ 'which was accord- ingly done and all sail set, so with a fair wind we started' for Kronstadt. Thursday, the 29th. A light breeze during the night and this morning we are in sight of land. Friday. Still light wind, and we are expecting to see the island of Gotland. Saturday, the 31st. This morning a strong head wind, which is quite discouraging. Sunday, June 1st. Wind almost gone, but what little there is, is favorable. Tuesday, June 3d. We at last dropped our anchor inside of the guard ship, which is stationed at the place to prevent ves- sels going farther until the ship's papers are sealed up, but as we are late I suppose we shall not have a visit from the gen- tlemen until morning. Wednesday, the 4th. This morning before the cloth was re- moved from the breakfast table, the visit boat was alongside, and the Emperor's servant came on board and sealed' all the ship's papers in due form with an enormous seal, then departed. The anchor was immediately heaved up and a few moments found us up to the Mole; then another visit from the guard boat. At the Mole they took possession of the sealed papers and delivered them tio the custom house. Thursday. This morning the ship had five feet of water in the hold, and from what cause this leak originated, it is im- possible for any one to tell. Two hands have been employed all day to keep tJie pumps free. Friday, the 6th. This is a fine day. The sun rose early, which makes a fine long day. The daylight lasts all night; last night at eleven it was light enough to read without much trouble. B lias gone to St. Petersburg for the first time. Saturday, the 9th. The cargo is going out of the ship quite fast, but the water has not stopped running in yet. Two men are employed pumping. Afternoon. Went ashore to view the place, which is com- posed of soldiers' barracks and other places for police guards, etc. The place is strongly fortified, probably the most so of any place in this part of the globe. Connon are mounted in every place where resistance could be possible, and it is really a sight to walk along the Mole and see the cannon balls and bombs piled in heaps after heaps for a quarter of a mile in extent, ])ut these are not one half. 207 There are a few shops, but we experienced much trouble in buying any article as we cannot speak the language. How- ever, we contrived to buy a dozen bowls. There are two churches here whose top are overlaid with pure gold, one is a dome, the other a spire; these glitter when the sun shines upon them with a brightness almost dazzling to the eye. The principal religion is Catholic, and the people when passing their churches lift their caps from their heads and cross themselves three times muttering something until they have passed, then replace their caps and walk on with their consciences much relieved, no doubt. This is a very cleanly place. The streets are wide, and the inhabitants manifest much taste in beautifying the walks with trees and grass. The soldiers all w^ear a thick outside gar- ment, which, it appears to me, must be very burdensome in the warm weather; but their principle is that what; keeps out the cold will also keep out the heat. Sunday, the 8th. Attended church to-day. The services were performed by a roguish-eyed chap, who apparently thought more of looking at the people than of worshiping his Maker, if we could judge by his pulling up his dickey, primping his hair, etc., during prayer. We were heartily glad' when we got out. In the afternoon we rode through the place, then out to Finland, and on our way out we passed through thousands of people. The road was literally crowded with them, and our driver was continually hallooing to them to keep out of his horse's way. We stopped at a public house and took some refreshments, then walked out to see the Prince, the grandson of Peter the Great, the Lord' Admiral of the Eussian fleet. He was seated outside of the hotel upon a bench in common citizen's dress, conversing with a man seated beside him, and from his appear- ance he would not have been noticed any more than any other man. But notAvithstanding all this, he is next in au- thority to the Emperor himself. We looked at him and he at us as much as we pleased. Monday, the 9th. This morning I heard the gun fired and presently the sun came peeping in at our window, and upon look- ing at the watch found thai it was a quaxter past two o'clock, which is pretty early to rise. Thursday, the 12th. This morning came on shore to a Ger- man house to board ; as the ship was turning over quite fast we thought proper to leave her. 208 Friday. The ship's leak was found and she was righted up again. Saturda}^ This morning set off in a John Gilpin style for Petersburg; it was raining as hard as it could pour, and not stopping to swallow a mouthful of breakfast, we jumped into a drosky, which is an open carriage, and off we rode for the steamboat hurrah boys ! ! Such a figure as we cut ! Splash, splash, went the horses ! Bonnets blowing off back, the strings streaming out in the wind; at last we got to the bridge where the carriage was not permitted to pass, and out we got and showed ourselves at the pass house, then started upon the run, for fear we were late, but back we were called, and seeming all right, started once more. But the rain pouring down, and B not keeping up with us we dodged into a little hut that was being built and stopped until he reached us, then all started once more for the boat, and at last arrived there all out of breath, and sat ourselves down in the cabin to wait until she started, which was in a few moments, and two hours having expired, we were in sight of the golden spires of St. Petersburg, so we landed and took a drosky and stopped at another German house. Sunday. We went this day to visit the churches whose tops are overlaid with pure gold, some the thickness of a quarter of a dollar. They must have cost an enormous sum of money. We gained access to four whose inside were splendid, — every- where the eye could see gold met the gaze. In one was de- posited in a tomb covered with cloth, woven with threads of gold, the body of Alexander, his father, brother, sister and Peter the Great. I felt that we were in the presence of the mighty dead. The services wer0 closed, the most of the congregation had departed; several, however, remained crowding around two prieets with unshaven faces, one of whom was presenting a cross, the other a box with something in it for them to kiss. They kissed and departed with apparent satisfaction. We were then alone with two men, probably sextons, so we went from one picture to another, some of which had lamps suspended from the ceiling before them, and kept constantly burning, before which the 'devout worshipers cross themselves, and often prostrate themselves. I noticed one old beggar woman who was not permitted to enter the inner doors, bow herself and touch her forehead to the floor a dozen times casting her eyes between each time at a picture of the Virgin Mary, which was half way up a dark stair case. In the porch were several pictures of the Infant Jesus,whose feet had been kissed so much 209 that the canvas was literally worn through to the board. What a sight for enlightened people ! The sacristy (I suppose it was), B and George were permitted to enter, but we, on account of being women, were not allowed to go in. But even they could not step upon the carpet where the holy priest performed his services. 1 attempted to go in but was prevented by the man placing his arm before me and saying "No." After dinner we went for the fourth time to the governor for a permit to visit the palace, and succeeded in getting some- thing written in the Eussian language, but what it was we knew not; however, the coachman motioned that he must go some- where else to get a signature, so off he carried us several miles in the country, and at last stopped at a place where the man lived who was to sign the document, but he being away from home, off we went a mile further and stopped again. He must have informed the people that there was a cariage load of Americans at the door, for out came three women, several girls and a dozen children to take a good look at us. One of the women asked if we spoke Dutch. "No." "Parlez-vous Fran- cais?" "No, nothing but English." She turned away with a despairing look and went into the house and brought out a girl who could speak English enough to ask B his name, ascertain- ing this the unfortunate paper was at last signed, so back we drove over the stone paved street to the city, to a building which we thought was the palace, a building whose piazza was upheld by ten figures with their arms up and hands clasping the roof of the building; they were probably twelve feet high, made of polisixcd stone as smooth as glass. We got out of the carriage and ascending a flight of steps, were met at the door by a man dressed in liverv, who motioned to a small room where we left our parasols a,nd I was obliged to lay aside my cloak, but Frances was permitted to wear her mantilla, on account of its being shorter than my cloak, which I suppose was according to the laws of etiquette in this country. We \\^XQ then shown through rooms whose floors were of mosaic work of different colored wood, the walls of marble of a great variety of colors, 'decorated with pictures with magnifi- cent frames; one large library with the writings of Voltaire; rooms full of statuary, but not understanding the language, and having no interpreter, we could not understand the designs so well. One statue of marble attracted my attention; it was a man and a child encircled by two serpents which were crush- ing them to death. The child was apparently in its last strug- 210 gle, the father expressed untold agony in the convulsive look about the mouth and forehead. One child was looking on, wit- nessing their agony, with such an expression of pity that it seemed almost impossible for it to be marble. This must have been the work of a skilful artist. One Egyptiam god made of stone, several other curiosities which I cannot explain ; so much splendor, so many riches . I never imagined my eyes could behold. I can only say with the Queen of Sheba, "The half was not told me.^' We visited all the rooms, and I donned my cloak and drove home, well satis- fied with what I had seen for one day. Monday. This morning rose at nine o'clock ; took our break- fast and sat ourselves down at the window and soon the rain came pattering down, so that we concluded that we should see no more of the city. B went out to get a chaj-ter for his ship and came back, we had dinner, which took an hour, then went out again and chartered for Wiborg; came in and we dressed and took a steamboat for Kronstadt, arriving at eight o'clock; took some tea and soon retired to rest. Sunday, the 2 2d'. We are now at Wiborg, which is a small island with a handful of houses on it, and a la|rge quantity of deals piled up on the sandy beach. However, it looks green, and perhaps when the sun shines upon it, it will look quite pleasant. It has rained all day. There are about a dozen ves- sels here, but none of our country people. Day before yester- day Tom came and said that we had another sailor on board who had been stowed away, so the watch was called aft, and the said man came with them. He said that he left the ship which he belonged to on account of ill usage. B took him and locked him up at night, and to-day he has sat in one corner of the caibin all day long, saying not a word unless spoken to. To-morrow B calculates to ascertain what he must do with him. The Russian law is very strict upon all things. Sunday, July 6th. We left Frang sound yesterday, and will complete our cargo where we now lie, as there was not a sufficient depth of water at the place where we have been lying. We are a few miles from the village in the midst of rocks and small islands, which make the river look almost unnavi- gable. However, the pilot brought us safely here and now the way is all clear when we are loaded and a fair wind favors us. Our next port is Bordeaux. We have had several calls from the ladies, who came to see that strange race of beings, the Americans. Yesterday a Fin- nish beggar woman came on board, and after I had given her 211 some bread, she pronounced her blessing upon us and left. The mate says that he has faith to believe in their power to bring curses or blessings upon people, so he in good faith gave her five copecks, and bought her blessings. Now for a fair wind' and quick passage. Saturday, the 12th. This morning the ship was permitted tio start upon our voyage, after waiting several days for a pilot to take us the remaining distance out. We might have gone three days ago if the lazy rascals hajd come near us. But no, they had got their pay in advance, and knew that we could not go without them, so they took their own time for it; but now we are out, and away from the scamps. July 27th. We are now off the Gallopyer, with a head wind which, however, did not come until yester'd'ay afternoon. Thus far we have had a fine run since we left. Last Sunday night we lay at anchor at Elsinore, and since we have had a fair wind every day until yesterday at four o'clock. It is Sunday and cool enough to sit by a fire which however we 'd'o without by substituting a shawl over our shoulders in the room thereof. I feel an inclination to laziness, so accordingly leave off. August 8th. Arrived at Pauillac yesterday, which is thirty miles from Bordeaiux, after a passage of eighteen days from Elsinore. This looks to be a fine country, everything is as green as a sunny clime can make it. And surely this is France, the land of Lafayette's birth. Yesterday took a walk ashore, and found blackberries in abundance growing at every side of the street for hedges. They were full of unripe berries. We came off with a basket of plums, peaches, pears and ap- ples, which tasted nice indeed after a voyage of eighteen days. September 8th. We are now loading for New Orleans and shall remain here some weeks. The country looks fine, and grapes are cultivated in every direction. We went several miles into the country in company with quite a number of American and French people; dined and walked over the plantation, and spent the most of the day. Blackberries grow here in abun- dance, but the people do not think them worth gathering. Bordeaux is a nice place to live on board ship, as we lie so near the shore that we can hear the fruit venders crying their fruit, and the noise of the carriages rolling over the pavement comes so plainly to us, that, we almost think them at our door. To-day is Sunday, but we have not been to church in this place, although this is the third Sunday thaft we have been in this place. 212 November. Since I wrote the foregoing we have left Bor- deaux, and are now passing the Berry Islands without much wind. We have forty-three passengers on board, which serves to kill the monotony of a long passage across the Atlantic. It is warm, the thermometer standing at 82 in the shade. Such is my life, now here, now there, sometimes in our beloved coun- try, sometimes in other climes where the sun shines with in- tense heat, sometimes where he is very sparing of his rays, scarcely showing his face through the long winter months. Such as Russia. January 8th. We have been to Orleans and loaded and now are on our way to jS'ew York. Passed Orange Keys this morn- ing; light winds and pleasant weather. Voyage from Havana to Hamburg. Saturday, May 29, 1852. I feel that I must, resume my long neglected writing book and note down, day by day, things that occur. We arrived at this city March twelfth, and after waiting sixty-one days chartered the ship to go to Hamburg, and now we are loading and shall probably sail on Tuesday next, so that to-day is a very busy day with all on board. B and George liave gone ashore to pass the afternoon. The cabin boy is pre- paring things under his department, to be in readiness to sail. The last of the cargo is being hoisted in, and all seem in good spirits. So we go from one port to another, and are passing our lives away. Sunday, the 30th. It is a w^arm day, everything is still, which makes it appear like the Sabbath. Capt. George Davis is spending the day with us, so that it will not pass so lonesomely as it would otherwise do. ]^Ionday, the 31st. Eose early this morning and commenced w^hing, and with the boy's help I finished a large washing by half past nine o'clock. In the afternoon I ironed them so as to be in readiness to sail. Tuesday, June 1st. Did not sail this morning as we expected, owdng to B not getting his papers from the consul, he being out to dine and his office closed, so B procured an interpreter and WTnt in search of him, but all in vain, he could not be found, so we were obliged to lie another day. We are now in readiness to depart on the morrow, if nothing unseen occurs but, oh ! the many miles that we must sail, the unpleasant days and tedious headaches, etc., that I must endure before we shall 213 arrive at our destined haven ; but the dangers are directed by Him who holdeth the sea in the hollow of His hand^ and whose eye never slumbers nor sleeps. Shall we pass through all in safety? Shall we be so happy as to return to our native land once more and see the faces of our beloved friend's ? Wednesday, the 2d. We are now outside of the Moro witJi scarcely a breath of wind, but with the kind assistance of many captains we were towed out, and if the wind would but breeze a littie, we might get off from the land. It looks like a sultry day: the clouds look like heaps of snow; the Moro flags hang lazily 'down; the water appears smooth with scarcely a ripple to disturb its glassy surface, which is studded here and there with vessels of various classes, from the ship to the small boat. We all feel glad and even rejoice to leave this place, where we have been eighty-one 'days. Even the sailors say the same. Who would not feel so to leave a place where we have no priv- ileges, not even of attending church, and scarcely any society. Yet such is often the case with seafaring people. Thursday, the 3d. Eose this morning at half past five and found it almost suffocatingly warm, the thermometer standing at 87 degrees, and the waters, ^s far as the eye could reach, as smooth and glistening as a polished mirror. Everything seems panting for a breath of air. The pig is grunting and walking deck with his mouth open seeking some cool place where his pigship may lie. We have pigeons, doves, chickens and goats on board, and in the morning I take it upon myself to see that they are cared for. Friday, the 4th. There seems to be nothing of importance to write about except calms and very light wind's. I have been employed in making pineapple preserver, which I intend to carry to a home, if I ajn ever so happy as to have one. George is fishing over tJie stern for dolphins Saturday, the 5th. Last night the wind breezed up, and has lasted until now but it is ahead, and I hope that it will change for I dread a head wind. Oh, how much ! There are three vessels in sight, but we are outsailing them quite fast. This morn- ing we are three days out, and expect to weather Martinilla Reef by twelve o'clock to-day. Sunday, the 6th. Latitude 28.44 Last night we had a tre- mendous head sea, so that we were obliged to take in the top- gallaintsails but, notwithstanding this, the ship pitched and rolled about awfully, making me sick, so that this morning I was minus breakfast with the exception of a bowl of gruel. Now I feel much better as the sea has abated, and I have eaten 214 some dinner of chicken soup and dessert of muskmelon, which is the last one that we have left, as the goat helped herself too freely to them the first night we came out. She came in the still of the night while we were wrapped in slumber into the cabin and entered the stateroom and' devoured half a dozen. Monday, the 7th. Strong breezes; the water constantly com- ing in so as to almost fill the waist full. There seems to be an unpleasant spirit lurking somewhere. The captain and mate had some. hard words last night, for the first time, I believe. Tuesday the 8th. The wind still continues strong with a bad sea, so that we are under double reefs, and I am sick in body and mind. Wednesday, the 9th. One week this morning since we came out, and we have gone the distance of nine hundred miles, which is a fair week's work. We are now in latitude 34.30, longitude 73 1-2. All sail is set, the wind being aft, and not too much of it, so that we should go smoothly along if it were not for a bad sea. We have had our cabin floor wet for two days, and it has rained almost incessantly, but this morning there is some appearance of clear weather, which will be very agreeable to me after so much wet. Thursday, the 10th. This day the wind continues fair with continual showers of rain. Things go the same as they have for the last half dozen years, one day after another passes, and I am continually changing my situation. I do hope that after we close up this voyage, that we shall have a foot of land that we can call our own with a comfortable house. These wishes cannot be called extravagant. Friday, the 11th. A head wind, which always brings un- pleasant feelings with it, has this day made its appearance, but I hope that its visitation will be of short duration. George lias got his lessons this forenoon somewhat better than usual, and now he is as busy as a "cat in a gale of wind" with his playthings. He loves excitement and is always in good spirits. Half past one o'clock. B is napping on the sofa. At sea there is so little worthy of writing down that I am often at a loss what entries to make, but if I should attempt to describe the ocean, I should merely say that it looked like an old ftiend which had a rather rough exterior and not altogether agreeable appearance to me, — but a friend who has borne me safely on its bosom for some number of years, through dangers seen and unseen, and I have been protected, while many valuable lives have found a watery grave. Perhaps my destiny may yet 215 be to do some good in the world, to help the unfortunate and friendless, — or something else. Saturday, the 13th. Wind still ahead; we are under double reefs fore and aft; there is a troublesome sea, which is com- ing in at a great rate. I have been sitting on deck wrapped in my thick shawl, and hardy comfortable at that. B has had his feet wet for an hour, but has now consented to change his stockings. George has stripped his off, and is now patter- ing around barefoot. This is a great change in the climate since we left Havana; there a cold breath was a great luxury, now it would almost freeze one. There the thermometer was 'day after day at 90 and d2 in the cabin, now it is 65, which is quite a change. Sunday, the 13th. No change in the wind yet. I feel quite sad about it, thinking what a long distance we have yet to go. Sunday is a quiet day on board of the ship when the weather is decently good; no work is going on, every one is at rest, which makes it seem "quite Sabbathlike and solemn.'' Oh, for a calm and holy mind to meet the various ills of life ! Afternoon. Have been overhauling old letters, and have derived some pleasure in bringing old scenes to mind again. In these letters absent friends seem almost conversing with us. Frances has been now awav from us three months, which seems a long time. Oh, how I wish I could see her for one hour ! would it not afford us a world of pleasure to see her dear face once more, but ah ! it cannot be. The blue Atlantic is bearing us, day by day, farther and farther away from our beloved friends. We {lave all sail set to-day, and not quite so much wind as yes- terday. Monday, the 14th. Strong head wind still and no prospect of a change. Shortened sail this morning, and now we are roll- ing and pitching badly. Last night B was rather ill during the night; he was cold and feverish, which alarmed me so that I lay awake several hours, conjuring up a thousand things which are dispelled this morning by his eating a usual allowance for breakfast, and setting himself to work. He says that he feels tolerably well now. I am seasick. Afternoon. No change yet, and I am troubled with an insup- portable drowsy feeling, which it is impossible for me to describe. It is really a source of great annoyance to me, for I do not need sleep, and to be in this situation is really vexatious. I think it proceeds from the constant motion of the ship, and a 216 rush of bloo'd' to the brain. No person can imagine its hostility to all that is agreeable and pleasant, yet I have to bear it. Tuesday, June 15th. Wind not changed yet. We proceed very slowly indeed ; bad motion as usual, but the sun shines and the poultry and goats are at liberty so that they can enjoy them- selves better than when shut up. B is very much interested in a book entitled "Modern Accomplishments;" he can scarcely leave it a moment. Now, at our beloved native land at this time of the year, everything in the gardens is at its height of beauty; now roses, pinks and all the dear flowers that I used to love with so much childish affection, are now glowing and growing delightfully, and how refreshing would it be to me to have a bouquet of them fresh from father's garden, would it not? Wednesday, the 16th. A change! Good news! Fair wind! and with it a change in my feelings. I feel happy, cheerful and contented. I can go about and arrange the misplaced things, and this morning washed for the first time since we came out. We this day commence the third week out, and have gone the distance of seventeen hundred miles, which is not bad for two weeks, but the distance gone over looks small in com- parison to that ahead; I hope that the good Providence which has been with us thus far. will continue with us till our jour- ney is at end, and through our mortal life. It is a beautiful day, the sun is shining gloriously on the ocean. The porpoises playing about us on all sides, and every- thing looks pleasant and happy, — so much for a fair wind. Thursday l?th. Our fair wind continues, but quite light; however, we cannot complain as we are comfortable. The ship is upright and there is but little motion. There is a vessel in sight for the first time since we left Hatter as. George has been a very bad boy about getting his arithmetic lesson to-day. He was all the forenoon in getting what he could ac- complish in three quarters of an hour. Friday, the 18th. A light breeze which is carrying us to Hamburg. We are not far distant from the Newfoundland Bank. There is a hazy, misty atmosphere, which dampens everything, and somehow or other, this is not agreeable to my temper, for I do not enjoy myself so well in a day like this as I do in a clear, dry, sunshiny day. Nothing new to-'d'ay has yet occurred. Saturday, the 19th. This makes the fourth day that we have been blessed with a fair wind, and I can truly say that I am very thankful for itw The sooner our passage is made so much 217 the better it is for us. There are some things which are not so pleasant as one could wish. One thing, B and the mate are scarcely on speaking terms ; they sit down and eat and rise with- out any conversation. The mate is an Englishman, and thiriks himself a little superior to a Yankee, I suppose. This, B can- not bear; and so they pass day after day, and it is not so very agreeable. We have advanced as far as the banks, and hope to be past by to-morrow. Sunday, the 20th. Are now passing the banks with the wind after us, which makes it look encouraging. Sunday has come again. How quickly the weeks fly away, although the hours drag heavily along. I do not enjoy the sea as well as I for- ,merly did. My head is very troublesome. Monday, June 21st. Almost calm; scarcely going three miles an hour, yet what wind we have is favorable. It is washing day; now the cabin is undergoing a scraping and I expect it will look very nice. George thinks that it cannot compare with it when aunt Frank used to scour it ; he says it was brighter then than it is now. B has had a hand in it^ and one might laugh to see the captain of the Ship Pumgustuck down upon his knees, scouring the floor ! Tuesday, tJie 2 2d. A nice breeze to-day, going six and one half knots. Wednesday, the 23d. The wind has changed to the north- west, but is still fair for us, and we are going seven and one half knots all this afternoon. One week to-day since we have been blessed witJi favorable winds, and have advanced during that time nine hundred miles, by which means we have been nearing our port, and if we are permitted to arrive safely there, it will be a matter of rejoicing to us all. Have now twenty-one hundred miles still to go, and, oh, how great a distance that seems in prospect ! Thursday, the 24th. Calm through the most of the night and all the forenoon. We picked up a piece of plank that had been long in the water, perchance a part of some ship. Friday, the 25th. A fine breeze as one could desire, not- withstanding yesterday afternoon it was ahead; and so we go along with the wind first on one side and then on the other. I think I hear tJie dishes rattle and, fear that they are sliding off the table, as we are heeled down some as usual. 26th. Saturday has come again, and with it our good wind, which has been following us for more than a week. My spirits are very good to-day, notwithstanding the motion of the ship, 218 which is always annoying to me. This is the fifth Saturday since we sailed, and oh, how fast the time is passing. Sunday, the 27th. Oh, Time how dost thou show thy foot- steps upon the ocean! Another week is buried with the past. No more will its days rise and set upon us. No more will the same winds and waves waft us o'er the briny deep ! No, gone, gone forever ! The wind is fair, but very light ; the atmosphere is damp. Monday, the 38th. The wind is very strong; we are going eight and one half knots, which is all that the ship will go, loaded as we now are. I washed to-day as usual this voyage on Mondays. Nothing of importance to write down to-day, ex- cept that we are passing the Western islands. Tuesday, the 29th. During the last twenty-four hours we have neared our port of destination two hundred miles, and are now going along eight and one half miles per hour. Last night was one of great discomfort to me, as the ship was rolling from side to side as if in a fit of desperation, so I crowded myself into one of the narrow berths, and there I lay all night tossing from sid'e to side amid all sorts of dreams concerning things and people at home. Something about horses troubled me a good part of the night. It is sailors' superstition to believe in horse dreams as prognosticating good or evil. Wind aft; passed a ship bound to the westward, and our ensign and burgee were run up, so they in exchange did likewise. She was the Cath- arine of New York. Wednesday, the 30th. Good wind still, and we are much in hopes to carry it with us to the channel, for we are but three days' sail like the last from Sicily island. Thursday, July 1st. Going along finely; three vessels in sight. We hope to be on soundings to-morrow if the wind holds. Friday, the 2d. At one o'clock the lead was thrown and got bottom, so that we can say that we are on English ground. It is very thick and dtiU, so that B begins to feel very much anxiety of mind concerning making the land to-morrow. I tell him to hope as I do that we shall have it cleared on the morrow, for it is no use to borrow trouble, for we have it fast enough without. Saturday, the 3d. This day have entered the mouth of the channel, but the wind has changed from strong breezes to very light wind and is now ahead, but the weather is clear, and B got good observations to-day. This afternoon saw the Lizard' just before sunset ; it is thirty- one days since we left Havana, which is a good passage. 219 Sunday July 4th. Glorious day of Independence ! Calm and clear, we have advanced but little ; the tide is ebbing but will soon turn, so that we shall drift along some for a few hours if it is calm; wind east; six o'clock a change of wind to the westward and thick fog. We have passed the Lizard and are not to the Start yet. Monday, July 5th. Calm throughout the night, and during the day the wind has been in every point of the compass, and now at four o'clock it is decidedly ahead. At noon we had a shower of rain accompanied by thunder and lightning, — the first we have had this summer. Oh, when shall we arrive at Hamburg. We passed Start this forenoon. Tuesday the 6th. Wind not stationary; we are as far east as Sti Albans Head; progressing slowly. Wednesday, the 7th. Wind still ahead and no prospect of a change. It is hard beating to the windward. This morning saw the Isle of Wight, and hope we shall get by it to-day. Evening. Passed Wight and saw Beachy Head light. Thursday the 8th. N'o change. Evening, eight o^ clock. Dunge Ness light in sight; the wind very light; tide down channel ; all against us, — oh, oh ! Friday, the 9th. Dover not far a^head. Several boats have been to us to-day from England. One brought bread, po- tatoes, eggs, for which they charged an enormous price; fifty cents for eggs; five dollars a barrel for potatoes. One boat has gone ashore for a pilot for us. B h^s been broken of his rest for several nights, and I think if we can have a pilot, it will re- lieve his mind in a great measure. The coast along here looks very pretty; villages occasionally show themselves as we stand in to the shore. Folkstone is a place of considerable ex- tent. I can see the spires of the churches, and a large iron works. The houses appear large and massive with many win- dows, and on the whole it is quite a relief to the eye, after see- ing nothing but water for so long a time. I wish we were bound there instead of to Hamburg. Saturday, the 10th. Succeeded in obtaining a pilot, and came to anchor off Dover this morning. At four o'clock weighed anchor and have got into the North Sea, with a strong head wind, and quite a disagreeable motion. Sunday morning, the 11th. Thick fog and a head wind; gained but little since we came out. Evening. No change; everything looks dreary; the day passes heavily. Oh, how I long for tihe land where I can en- 220 joy the fresh fields and flowers, and the sweet perfume of the flowers. Monday, the 12th. Sun shines, but wind ahead; advance very slowly. Tuesday, the 13th. Wind ahead. Here we are, beating day af tier 'day, and when shall we have a change ? Wednesday morning, the 14th. No change. Wind light. We are making a long passage through the North Sea, and if we do not soon arrive, we shall be out of many kinds of things in the provision line, which adds to our discomfort. Thursday, the 15th. Still the same wind, and we are almost discouraged with this hard luck. I have a headache, and' feel almost sick. Just spoke a pilot boat belonging to Bremen. Friday, the 16th. Awoke this morning and found that we had a light breeze, so that w^e headed our course, a thing that we have not done but once for two weeks. Afternoon. Calm and pleasant, a very summer's day. We are tired of this passage. Saturday, the 17th. Our good wind is all gone, and in- stead thereof, last night throughout the night, it was calm, and this miorning it breezed up again, — where do you think from? Why from the east of course. So now we are beating as usual since we entered the English channel. Sunday, thi 18th This morning awoke, ind to my joy found that the wind was fair, and that we were quite near the mouth of the Elbe, which is certainly more than we expected when we retired last night. So we soon arrived at Cuxhaven, where we exchanged pilots, and are now proceeding up the river,, which is very pleasant. We can see pleasant villages on each side of the river, with their church spires pointing heavenward. This reminds me of the good old Orthodox town where I w^as larought up, and a thousand pleasant thoughts crowd upon my brain. This is a very pleasant country. We have been feast- ing ourselves upon cherries, green peas, beefsteak, milk, etc. Monday, the 19th. At anchor this morning at a place called Stadt. We can go no further until we lighten the ship. Cabin boy went ashore with ship's papers and came off with a mes- sage from a gentleman to me, saying that he was well ac- quainted with me, but did not bring his name, so I am in the dark who this gentleman can be. Tuesday, the 20th. Commenced this morning discharging cargo; took out four lighter loads, then started and came up the river across the bars safely, but the wind died away, so that we were obliged to anchor again, and there remained all night. 221 Wednesday, the 21st. This morning heaved up anchor, and xitopped stern foremost until we safely came inside of the booms, and then made fast. Everything about, as far as I can see from the ship, looks green and beautiful. B has gone ashore and I expect to go this afternoon, if nothing prevents. I think that a change of living and scenery will do us all good, for we have now been living on board more than a year. We had letters from our friends, and it is a great comfort to hear from them when so far from them; it is like "Cold water to a thirsty soul." There has been quite a number of people on board. They all seem very friendly and well disposed. Thursday, the 22d. Yesterday afternoon came ashore to board at thef British and Union hotel, where we are now and think that we shall be well satisfied. Our expenses will be two dollars per day. George seems much delighted with everything he sees ; even the paper of the room excites much admiration. Friday, the 23d. This day we took a ride out to see the ma- nagerie of wild animals ; had a very pleasant time, but the coach- man charged one dollar for two hours, which we shall not pay again. Saturday, the 24th. This morning I went out with Mr. Eob- ertson's daughter, Sophia, to see if we could not engage a coach for less money than we paid yesterday. We found one who said that he would drive us at twenty-eight cents per hour with one horse, but if with two, it would be sixteen cents more. So we have engaged him for all the time we are here. Sunday, the 25th.. The American consul's lady called this morning for me to go to church with her, so George and myself accompanied her to the Eeformed church of England. The services were much the same as ours at home. The people here ■do not like to attend church; they work hard all the week, and use Sunday as a holiday; attending the theaters and all places of amusements, etc. I do not think the city wears such a pleas- ing aspect as it did when we were here before, but it was two months earlier, and everything was glowing with beauty then. We have not seen old Madame Lethany that we boarded with when we were here before. She does not keep boarders now, but has gone outside the gates to live. Friday, the 30th. The week so far has been spent in walk- ing, riding and other amusements. Captain Drummond, the only American except ourselves here, has been somewhat smit- ten with a little German girl. She is very pretty and only fifteen years old. 222 The people here are very fond of amusement, and it seems that every one must have it. They go out every day and visit some garden where they have tea served out of doors. There they sit and enjoy themselves, and nice old ladies take out their knitting work and knit the whole time as busy as bees. I am interrupted by a woman with four children, playing upon a large harp and singing very prettily. She probably gets her living in this manner. I have made several acquaintances and some very pleasant ones, too, since I have been here. August 8th. We left Hamburg yesterday with a ship load of passengers. 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