5 ENGLISH LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. NO. 7 32. e. STRATFORD CHURCH, FROM THE RIVER. STRATFORD-ON-AVON FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO THE DEATH OF SHAKESPEARE BY SIDNEY LEE WITH FORTY -FIVE ILLUSTRATIONS BY EDWARD HULL NEW EDITION or [ UNIVERSITY j ~ r r SEELEY AND CO., LIMITED 38 GREAT RUSSELL STREET 1902 UB. CONTENTS PAGE INTRODUCTORY . . . . . . i i. THE ORIGIN OF THE TOWN, AND 'ITS RELATIONS WITH THE SEE OF WORCESTER .... 8 2. AGRICULTURAL LIFE . . . . -15 3. MEDIEVAL TRADE, MARKETS, AND FAIRS . . 24 4. JOHN, ROBERT, AND RALPH OF STRATFORD . . 32 5. THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY TRINITY . 37 6. THE GUILD . . . . . 51 7. SIR HUGH CLOPTON'S BENEFACTIONS . . -76 8. THE REFORMATION AT STRATFORD . . .88 9. THE GROWTH OF SELF-GOVERNMENT . . 95 10. JOHN SHAKESPEARE IN MUNICIPAL OFFICE AND IN TRADE ....... 104 11. THE STRATFORD INDUSTRIES AND POPULATION . HI 12. JOHN SHAKESPEARE'S FIRST SETTLEMENT IN STRATFORD THE STREETS . . . . . .117 13. THE CONSTRUCTION AND FURNITURE OF THE HOUSES THE GARDENS. . . . . .128 14. THE SANITARY CONDITION OF THE TOWN . . 147 15. PLAGUES, FIRES, FLOODS, AND FAMINES . . 155 vi Contents PAGE 16. DOMESTIC AND SCHOOL DISCIPLINE: . . 168 17. THE OCCUPATIONS OF STRATF % ORD LADS 184 18. Tin; FLAYERS AT STRATFORD . . 192 19. RURAL SPORTS .... 199 20. CHARLECOTE HOUSE POACHING IN THE PARK. 211 21. INDOOR AMUSEMI . . 232 22. CHRISTENINGS AND MARRIAGES . . 243 23. SHAKESPEARE AT STRATFORD IN LATER LIFE . . 254 24. THE GUNPOWDER PLOT COMBE'S DEATH THE AT- TEMPT TO ENCLOSE THE WELCOMBE FIELDS . . 272 25. SHAKESPEARE'S DEATH AND HIS DESCENDANTS . 283 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS STRATFORD CHURCH, FROM THE RIVER . Frontispiece. PAGE MEADOW WALK BY THE AVON . . . .16 ASTON-CANTLOW CHURCH ... -25 THE CHURCH OF STRATFORD-ON-AVON . 39 PORCH OF STRATFORD CHURCH . . 43 STRATFORD CHURCH, FROM THE NORTH . . 47 REMAINS OF THE OLD FONT AT WHICH SHAKESPEARE WAS CHRISTENED ...... 50 THE CHAPEL OF THE GUILD OF THE HOLY CROSS . . 53 THE CHAPEL OF THE GUILD. INTERIOR . . -59 THE GUILDHALL ...... 65 SOME REMAINS OF THE OLD BUILDING AT THE REAR OF CLOPTON HOUSE ...... 79 STRATFORD BRIDGE ...... 85 STAIRCASE OF CLOPTON HOUSE . . . .87 LUDDINGTON VILLAGE AND NEW CHURCH . . -93 SHAKESPEARE'S BIRTHPLACE BEFORE RESTORATION . .118 SNITTERFIELD CHURCH . . . . .121 THE RED HORSE HOTEL . . . . .129 THE ROOM IN WHICH SHAKESPEARE WAS BORN . 135 viii List of Illustrations PAGE THE UPPER STORY OF SHAKESPEARE'S BIRTHPLACE . 139 THE BIRTHPLACE OF SHAKESPEARE . . 145 OLD HOUSES IN ROTHER STREET . . . 149 THE HOUSE OF DR. JOHN HALL . 157 OLD LYCH-GATE AT WELFORD . .163 AN OLD ALE-HOUSE, STRATFORD-ON-AVON . . .169 THE GRAMMAR SCHOOL . 179 MARY ARDEN'S COTTAGE AT WILMECOTE . . . 205 CHARLECOTE PARK ...... 217 THE GRAND HALL AT CHARLECOTE .... 223 ARMS OF LUCY .... 231 BIDFORD. ... 233 HlLLBOROUGH ....... 239 STRATFORD, FROM THE SOUTH-EAST .... 244 ANNE HATHAWAY'S COTTAGE AT SHOTTERY. INTERIOR . 247 ANNE HATHAWAY'S COTTAGE AT SHOTTERY . .251 OLD CHURCH OF LUDDINGTON . . . . 253 APPROACH TO SHOTTERY, FROM STRATFORD . . . 259 CLIFFORD CHURCH AND OLD HOUSES . . . 267 THE CLOPTON PEW ...... 273 MEMORIAL OF SIR HENRY RAINFORD IN CLIFFORD CHURCH 276 OLD GRAVESTONES IN THE CHURCHYARD OF STRATFORD- ON-AVON ....... 285 SHAKESPEARE'S MONUMENT . .... 289 CHANCEL OF THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY TRINITY, STRATFORD 293 THE SHAKESPEARE MEMORIAL THEATRE, STRATFORD-ON-AVON 297 THE CHANCEL OF STRATFORD CHURCH . . .301 DISTANT VIEW OF STRATFORD-ON-AVON . . . 303 STRATFORD-ON-AVON INTRODUCTORY " ONE thing more," wrote Sir William Dugdale in 1657, at the close of the eighteen folio pages of his Antiquities of Warwickshire devoted to Stratford -upon -Avon, " one thing more in reference to this ancient town is observable, that it gave birth and sepulture to our late famous poet, Will Shakespeare." There is little need to add the comment that the "one thing more," about Stratford, which the learned antiquary thought to have adequately noticed in these four-and-twenty words, has grown into the only thing about it that most men now regard as memorable. Nor would the modern pilgrim that is, he who makes his pilgrimage with fitting judgment readily admit that Dugdale has indicated the highest points of interest B Stratford-on- Avon about Shakespeare's connection with Stratford. That the borough was his birthplace and burial- place gives it, after all, a smaller attraction than that he lived there for full two-thirds of his life. And completely as the resources of civilisation have remodelled the town in many of its aspects, it still boasts sufficient survivals of the age of Elizabeth to give the sojourner a far-off glimpse of Shakespeare's daily environment. The nineteenth -century manufacturer has not set his mark upon it : the inhabitants know little of life at high pressure. Their acknow- ledged affinity with the hero who makes their life worth living in more than a single sense, would seem to have held them aloof from all the ruder currents of modern life. It is only within the last half century that the town has begun to extend its boundaries, and the exten- sion has not yet attained very gigantic measure- ments. The chief streets, with their offshoots, although they have grown wider in many places and in all cleanlier, still bear the names by which Shakespeare knew them. The church on the river bank has undergone little change, and time has dealt very kindly with the exterior of the ancient Chapel of the Guild, with the Introductory 3 Guildhall, and with the Grammar School, all of which were once overlooked by the windows of Shakespeare's far-famed house, at the meeting of Chapel Street with Chapel Lane. Although that house has gone, the public garden chris- tened after it New Place occupies the exact site of the ''great garden " that surrounded it when the poet was its owner. Cross-timbered houses, with the carved front in one instance at least merely mellowed by the lapse of years, often break the monotony of unlovely stretches of modern brickwork. The stone bridge across the Avon is in all its essentials the same as when the Elizabethans crossed it. The water- mill, although shaped anew, continues to do the noisy work in which it has persevered through nine centuries. And when once the town is deserted for Shakespeare's playing fields in the neighbour- ing country, the changes grow less marked. Stratford always stood upon a "plain ground," as Leland described it early in the sixteenth century, surrounded by "the champain," that is, the flat open country. The woodland has grown scantier, but there is still no lack of it on the low hills of the district, and here and there 4 Stratford-on-Avon on the banks of the river. The Forest of Arden, which was in its decadence in Eliza- bethan England, has now retreated into a mere name, but it was always in historic times cut off from Stratford by a wide enough tract of land to prevent it from affecting materially the im- mediate scenery. The Avon itself winds as of old from Naseby to the Severn, with Stratford on its right bank, midway between its source and mouth, and at a little distance from Strat- ford it still flows under bridges at Binton and Bidford which are as authentic relics of the sixteenth century as their fellow at Strat- ford. Numberless villages, like Shottery and Snitterfield, pursue that drowsy rural life which seems always able to resist time's ravages. They have not grown : some of them have been renovated by the modern builder ; in a very few cases they have fallen into decay and all but disappeared. But none have quite reached la fin du vieux temps ; and the preservation of an occasional relic like the may- pole on the village green at Welford suggests to the least thoughtful passer-by their near relationship with the past. Saunter where we will by the homesteads and meadows of South Introductory 5 Warwickshire, we are still led from time to time within view of scenes which may well have inspired poetic passages like Perdita's invita- tion to the sheep -shearing feast, or the song of Spring in Loves Labour s Lost. But there is some danger, although the practice is an attractive one, in making Shake- speare's name the central feature of all Stratford history and topography. It has been done too often already. The writers of guide-books or monographs on the town and district have always endeavoured to fix the attention of the pilgrim or student exclusively on points of Shakespearian interest, and have valued only as much of their investigations as belongs to Shakespearian lore. The scraps of information that their labours have yielded are of their kind beyond price ; but they fail to enable the reader to form a coherent conception of the town's general development or social growth. With all respect to the antiquaries of Stratford, it may be said that they have overlooked facts in the various stages of the history of the borough which are of striking importance in the municipal history of the country. Nor is 6 Strat ford-on- A von this the limit of their offence, if offence can justly be used in such a context. Al- though it would be only by an awkward distortion of the neglected facts that they could be turned to account in Shakespeare's biography, those of them that relate to the Middle Ages undoubtedly offer us traditions which influenced the life and thought of the poet as a Stratford townsman of greater receptivity than his neighbours ; while those that concern the late years of the six- teenth century, or the early years of the seventeenth, can be made to create for us a picture of the society in which he actually moved. Thus we may be brought to the conclusion that something of Dugdale's method of dealing with Stratford is not without its advantages for the Shakespearian student. It is possible that an account of the town that shall treat it as a municipality not unworthy of study for its own sake, and shall place Shakespeare among its Elizabethan inhabit- ants as the son of the unlucky woolstapler of Henley Street or as the prosperous owner of New Place, will be more suggestive and in better harmony with the perspective of history, Introductory 7 than a mere panegyric on the parochial relics as souvenirs of the poet's birthplace, home, or sepulchre. The following pages are in- tended as an experiment in the former direc- tion. I THE ORIGIN OF THE TOWN, AND ITS RELATIONS WITH THE SEE OF WORCESTER THERE are many towns in England that can claim greater antiquity than Stratford - on- Avon. 1 The county of Warwickshire, called by Drayton (himself a Warwickshire man) the heart of England, was doubtless in prehistoric ages part of the vast forest which covered all the Midlands, and which survived in later times in the chain of wood stretching, with occasional clearings, from Byrne Wood in Buckingham- shire, through Abingdon and Wych Woods in Oxfordshire, to the forests of Dean, Arden, Cannock, and Sherwood, and the Derbyshire 1 The main authority for the history of mediaeval Stratford is Dugdale's account of the town in his History of Warwickshire, first published in 1656, and reissued under the editorship of Dr. William Thomas in 1718. Kemble's Codex Diplomaticus gives the text of the charters noted below. The Origin of the Town 9 Wolds. The discovery of a very few tumuli in the district, containing some rude stone implements, mark the presence of a very sparse population in a neolithic age. Avon is the Celtic word for river, which as Afon is still good Welsh. Arden is formed from the Celtic ard, high or great, and den, the wooded valley a compound which also supplied Lux- emburg with its district of the Ardennes. Place- names like these prove the sojourn of Celtic tribes in the north and south of Warwickshire before the Roman occupation. The Romans bestowed the title Cornavii on the inhabitants of the county. We know nothing of its origin, and find few traces of Roman civilisation in the district. But Rome's ubiquitous roadmakers did not leave the neighbourhood untouched. Ryknield Street, which ran from Tynemouth in Northumberland, through York, Derby, and Birmingham, to St. David's, skirted the Forest of Arden on its west side ; passed through Studley and Alcester, and left the county five miles below Stratford by way of Bidford. The name of Straetford is a proof, too, that this was not the only "street" which approached the site of Stratford. It io Straiford-