■i??^is:>^c;!if E Bom hisrnim '30m BWCKCT la THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES SOUTH AUSTRALIAN NATIVE, WITH SPEAR AND WADDY A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE HOW A COLONY WAS FOUNDED AND A METHODIST CHUECH FOEMED BY THE REV. JOHN BLACKET SOUTH AUSTRALIA " Noiv shall it be said of . Jacob and of Israel, Uliat hath God wrought?" Ncm. xxiii. 23. Itonbon: CHARLES H. KELLY 2, CASTLE ST., CITY RD. ; AND 26, PATERNOSTER ROW, E.G. 1899 ■'A " Fellow-Colouists ! if this is a proud day to us, as most assuredly it ought to be, how much more should our Brethren, in the dear Old Mother Country, exult in the pride of our situation ! How should they rejoice at being witnesses of what no other nation in the world besides England has been permitted to see ! What other nation has seen her children so extensively spread over the most distant parts of the earth, founding communities, governing themselves, speaking the same language, improving on the models of her institutions, reverencing the land of their forefathers, and sympathising with that race of which we ourselves are a continuing branch?" — Sir Henry Ayers, "Address at JuVjilee of South Australia, 1886," 1780.152 TO TJIE Jl EMORY OF MY wife's parents CALEB AND PHQIBE FIDLER PIONEERS IN THE ESTABLISHMENT OF METHODISM IN^ THE SOUTH-EASTERN PART OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA THIS BOOK TS DEDICATED CONTENTS CHAP. AN ACKNOWLEDGMENT I. INTRODUCTORY . II. DRAWING THK PLANS . III. PREPARING TO BUILD . IV. LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS . V. RAISING THE SUPERSTRUCTURE YI. THREE BUILDERS OF METHODIST FAME VII. HOW A METHODIST CHURCH WAS FORMED . VIII. THE TRAVELLING PREACHER AND HOW HE CAME IX. HOW THE CHURCH GREW X. AN ABLE ADMINISTRATOR XI. AFTER SIXTY YEARS PAGE xi 1 9 23 33 49 73 97 121 148 171 201 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS SOUTH AUSTRALIAN NATIVE A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN SCENE PORTRAIT : JOHN CHARLES WHITE PROCLAMATION TP>EE, HOLDFAST BAY, 1S9S . FIRST WESLEYAN PLAN FOR ADELAIDE CIRCUIT ADELAIDE : HINDLEY STREET, 1846 GOVERNMENT HOUSE, ADELAIDE, 1846 . PORTRAIT : REV. JOHN STEPHENS PORTRAIT : PASTOR JACOB ABBOTT PORTRAIT : REV. WILLIAM LONGBOTTOM CLARENDON PORTRAIT : REV. JOHN ECiGLESTON PORTRAIT : REV. DANIEL J. DRAPER . ADELAIDE IN 1896 : KING WILLIAM STREET PAGE Frontispiece 8 22 32 47 48 70 72 96 120 142 161 170 200 AN ACKNOWLEDGMENT After the lapse of more than sixty years, to " trace the course of all things accurately from the first," is by no means easy. Unless the course is accurately traced, the attempt had better not be made. It was in the spirit of this conviction that the writer undertook the present work. It is not a relation of personal experience. The Colony of South Australia had been founded many years before the writer came out of the mysterious somewhere upon this busy Australian scene. Whilst this is true, the reader will please bear in mind that painstaking effort has been put forth to make the record correct. It is hardly necessary to add that this has consumed a large amount of time, and has in- xii AN ACKNOWLEDGMENT volved a considerable degree of labour. Old records had to be found, and then carefully searched. Like Papias, when seeking apostolic traditions, the writer " imagined that what was to be got from books was not so profitable for him as what came from the living voice," con- sequently old colonists had to be sought out, and interrogated. To all who so generously rendered assistance my hearty thanks are due, and are herewith tendered. JOHN BLACKET. Wesleyan Paksonage, Melrose, South Australia, July 1898. <^-^ A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE CHAPTER I INTRODUCTORY TJISTOEY is full of romance. There is a peculiar fascination about it. It brings sunshine into our lives, and seems to lengthen out the thread of our existence. As we read the record of what our fathers did in the old time before us the " heart is strangely warmed," and the imagination fired. The mind goes back to a time long anterior to the birth of the body, and the remote past is brought within the range of our experience. We see the battles that our fathers fought. We hear the song of praise and shout of 2 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE victory. We see them grappling with difiicullies, surmounting obstacles, till they have made the rough places smooth, the crooked places straight, and have burst asunder tlie bars of iron. Many events in the history of a nation remind us that " fact is stranger than fiction." It is so in the history of the Church. Take the Methodist Church, of which, in the course of the following pages, we shall have to speak. Its history is a modern Acts of the Apostles. It is a marvellous record of the wonder - working power of God. Again we see how God chooses " the weak things of the world to put to shame things that are strong, and things that are not, to bring to nought the things that are." Surely the Arminian Magazine had its genesis in a Divine idea. To John Wesley, in London, as to St. John the Apostle, in Patmos, there came the command : " What thou seest, write in a book." The pages of that book are before us. We are grateful to God for the record they contain. Often has the soul expanded, the spiritual vision become clearer, and tlie intangible more real when study- ing the record made by our Methodist Fathers of INTRO D UCTOR V 3 what God has wrought. Here we see souls trans- figured and lives transformed. Here is the record of men and women, in humble spheres of life, who exerted a powerful influence for good. Here we see great issues growing out of small beginnings. " Five chase a hundred, and a hundred chase ten thousand." Here we see the mysterious operations of Providence more fascinating (at least to the Christian) than any fictitious romance. " The appearance of the wheels and their work, was like unto the colour of a beryl ; . . . and their appear- ance and their work was as it were a wheel within a wheel." In our Methodist " Acts of the Apostles " is the experience of men and women who could say : " We are ambassadors, therefore, on behalf of Christ, as though God were entreating by us, we beseech you, on behalf of Christ, be ye reconciled to God. ... In everything commending ourselves, as ministers of God, in much patience, in afflictions, in necessities, in distresses, in stripes, in imprison- ments, in tumults, in labours, in watchings, in fastings. ... As deceivers, yet true ; as unknown, and yet well known ; as dying, and behold we live ; as chastened, and not killed; as sorrowful, yet 4 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE always rejoicing ; as poor, yet making many rich ; as having nothing, yet possessing all things." As the result of this apostolic spirit, and devoted labour, multitudes became "obedient unto the faith." The canonical " Acts of the Apostles " came to an abrupt close, not so the Methodist record. The work begun by Wesley is still going on, and so is the record of that work. We said, at the outset, that " fact is stranger than fiction " ; we now give a different rendering : " fact is often more fascinating than fiction." Methodism is full of romance — full of stirring incident, strange surprises, and remarkable events. That such is the case we believe some of our pages will show. The foundation of this Colony, and the formation of the Methodist Church therein, run parallel. They are strangely interlinked. Both will come under review. It is our intention to give — not an up-to-date history of the Colony, nor of the Church, but a vivid picture of early colonial life, and of the romantic circumstances under which a Church was formed, and the pleasing rate at which it grew. INTR OD UCTOR Y 5 It is not of the whole of Australia that we have to speak ; but of ^oidli Avstralia. A caution here is necessary. We are so far away from the Old World, and our history, comparatively speaking, is so recent, that our kindred in the Old Land are apt to fall into error. Australia is a vast island- continent, divided into Colonies. Each Colony has an independent existence ; it administers its own affairs, and has a Governor appointed by the Crown. It is of the early history of one of these Colonies that we have to speak. A good map of Australia will add much to the instruction and enjoyment of the reader as we show — "How A Colony was Founded, and a Methodist Chukgh was Fokmed." A SOUTH AUSTRALIAX (iCEXE. 8 T' CHAPTEE II DRAWING THE PLANS rriHE first known discovery of any part of South Australia was made in 1672. The discoverer was a Dutch navigator. He sailed along the south coast. The new land was called Nuyt's Land. It was so called after a person on board named Peter Nuyt. The honour of a practical discovery of the country belongs to Captain Flinders. In 1802 he surveyed the southern coast, and named its several points. Flinders' Eange, at the foot of which these lines were penned, was named after the illustrious navigator. The first wliite man to get a glimpse into the interior of South Australia was Captain Sturt. In 1829 the Government of New South Wales com- missioned him to trace the course of the Murrum- 9 10 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE })i(k'eG. A whale - boat was secured, and llie necessary provision made. At the head of a party, Captain Start set sail. Tlie trip must have been a most fascinating one. They were gliding down a stream on which no white man's boat had ever been launched ; they were passing through country that no white man had ever seen. The journey had its difficulties and dangers. Here and there in the stream were " snags," — submerged logs, — against which the boat might strike ; there were rapids to be passed over, with the possibility of being upset. These added romance to the trip. After sailing some time down the Murrumbidgee the boat suddenly shot into a noble river, flowing from east to west. This proved to be what is now known as the Murray. It was so named by Captain Sturt in honour of Sir George Murray, Secretary of State for the Colonies. This must have indeed been a surprise. The excitement of the party must have been intense. On the adven- turers glided, not knowing whither they went, wondering, no doubt, what other revelations were in store. Borne on the bosom of the noble river they sailed past giant gums. Away in the distance DRAWING THE PLANS n the kangaroo bounded. Occasionally they got a glimpse of some of the natives of the soil. At times they were very hostile. Covered with war paint, brandishing their spears, and sounding their battle-cry, they rushed down to the water's edge. After sailing about two months down the Murray they came to a vast fresh- water lake. This was the reservoir into which the river flowed. This body of water Captain Sturt called Lake Alex- andrina, in honour of the Princess who now, as Queen, sits upon the throne. The explorers were now in one of the most romantic parts of South Australia. This was the happy hunting-ground of the blackfellow. On the banks of the Murray, and round the shores of the lake, he built his wurlies, held his corroberies, chanted to his picca- ninnies, taught them how to swim, to throw the spear, and to track emus, kangaroos, and enemies. Here he caught his fish, and noosed and netted wild fowl. No wonder that he was both awed and angry when he saw his territory invaded by mysterious whites. The Eev. George Taplin, who spent many years amongst the blacks, in the early days, says : " I know several men who remembered 12 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE the arrival of Captain Sturt, and they tell of the terror which was felt as they beheld his boat crossing Lake Alexandrina." Passing over the lake, Captain Sturt discovered the junction of the Murray with the sea. It was the discoveries made on the coast by Captain Flinders, and in the interior by Captain Sturt, that lay at the basis of the schemes for South Australian colonisation. As all roads led to Rome, so the history of the Anglo-Saxon race everywhere leads to a national centre. For the colonisation scheme of this vast territory we must turn to England. We have to go back to the time when the " Iron Duke " was taking an active part in politics, and when the great men of Methodism — Bunting, Newton, and Watson — were at their zenith. In 1829 a " National Colonisation Committee" was formed in London. Its object was to " explain to the public the plan of colonisation on which the new province of South Australia was to be founded." This came to nought. In 1831 a second committee was formed. This also had to be disbanded. An old print that lies before the writer, pub- DRAWING THE PLANS 13 lished by Eidgwaj & Sons, Piccadilly, in 1834, gives " the outline of the plan of a proposed Culony to be founded on the south coast of Australia, with an account of the soil, climate, rivers," etc. It gives the prospectus of an Association, the object of which " is to found a Colony under Eoyal Charter, at or near Spencer's Gulf, on the south coast of Australia." The public is informed that " a Committee sits daily at the office of the Associa- tion, 8 Adelphi Chambers, for the purpose of giving information to persons disposed to settle in the Colony." The " whole of the purchase-money of public land," in the new Colony, " after defraying the necessary cost of survey and sales," was to be " employed in conveying British labourers to the Colony." Emigrants conveyed to the Colony were to be " young people, of the two sexes, in equal number." Preference was to be given to " young married couples without children." Among other reasons why this part of the world should be colonised by English people, the follow- ing are stated : — " There is every reason to believe that the whole of extra-tropical Australia is free 14 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE from endemic disease. The seaboard ad van luges of South Australia were great. The magnificent harbour of Port Lincoln would be the chief empo- rium for the trade of that region, and Coffin's ]'>ay would eventually receive all the produce of the line of the coast to the west. It was expected that the country would yield coal, woods of various kinds, and bark for tanning. Salt fish would find a ready market in Peru, Chili, and the Isle of France. Wheat and Hour would find a market in the Isle of France, the Cape, Ifio Janeiro, and probably China. Tobacco, Hax, hemp, and cotton were to be grown." In the light of more than sixty years' experience it is refreshing to read the glowing anticipations of those who drew up the colonisation plan. The " magnificent harbour of Port Lincoln " is so far of little use. It was to be the " chief emporium of trade for that region." Unfortunately, all the trade transacted there can be done with a few small boats. Coffin's Bay, which was " to receive all the produce of the west," remains much as it was sixty years ago. The " export of salt fish to Peru, Chili, and the Isle of France," will be one of the DRAWING THE PLANS 15 surprises of tlie future. We have done something in the direction of exporting wheat and flour, but the " cultivation of tobacco, flax, hemp, cotton," are parts of the original plan that generations to come must fulfil. We leave No. 9 Adelphi Chambers and go to Exeter Hall. It is June the 30th, 1834. A great number of people are making their way to the historic building. Carriages are driving up and dropping their occupants. In the manner and address of the people there is great animation. It is a meeting of the promoters and friends of the projected Colony in South Australia. About two thousand five hundred persons, including many Members of Parliament, are present. There is excitement inside as well as out. A man who has caught the radical spirit of the times desires to speak. He rises. " I wish to ask a question." There are cries of " No ! No ! " and great uproar. " What is the gentleman's name ? " the chairman asks. The reply is: "I am Thomas Goode, of Kettering, Northamptonshire, and I repeat that I have a question to ask." (lleuewed uproar.) " I am in the hands of the meeting," the chairman 1 6 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE says ; " it is for you to determine what would be the more convenient course." Thomas Goode sits down. Robert Owen is present, and no doubt feeling an interest in his radical friend, steps into the breach. " I beg to ask," he says, " whether this is to be considered a public meeting, or a meeting of the friends of the system ? " " Most unquestionably," the chairman replies, " this is a public, meeting; and I may add that it is the object of all who are interested in the undertaking to make the proceedings partake as much of a public character as possible; but in order tliat a fair opinion may be formed, will it not be better for the subject to be fully before the meeting prior to any gentleman entering into a discussion of its merits ? " The chairman has evidently voiced the opinion of the meeting. There are cries of " Hear ! hear ! " and applause. Several addresses in favour of colonisation are delivered. The meeting is now thrown open. The stranger, who describes himself as " Thomas Goode, of Kettering," again rises, and walks to the front. There are cries of " Off! Off ! " and much uproar. " I am one of the productive classes," he says, " who work early in tlie morning DRAWING THE PLANS ij and late at night for the rich." Cries of "Question ! Question ! " "I congratulate the gentlemen who have formed themselves into a Committee for the purpose of advancing this Association, on their success. I would say to them in the language of Scripture : ' Be not weary in well-doing, for in due time ye shall reap if ye faint not.' . . . Colonel Torrens has said that the gentlemen who sought the advancement of the Colony worked not for their own benefit, but for that of others. If this be true it is certainly a new feature in the plan. (Laughter.) ... I am glad to know there is a prospect of success in the Colony. ... I hope that the success of this Association will stir up the energies of the Government to make improvements at home. I contend that there is ground enough at home for all the people it has to support. . . . Capital does much evil as well as good. . . . Though the labourer produces wealth, the rich man puts it in his pocket. The poor labourer is left to starve." Thomas Goode continues in this strain, airing his socialistic views, till the patience of the meeting is exhausted. There are cries of " Question ! Question!" "Off! Off!" and hisses. "Why, 1 8 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE gentlemen," Thomas says, " I am ashamed of you ; you put me in mind of the geese in my country." Another person rises in the body of the hall : " I will move the adjournment of tliis meeting if order is not restored." Again the pertinacious Thomas attempts to speak, but there is groaning and hooting. The chairman rises : " It is my wish, and the wish of all connected with the management of this Association, that the freest scope should be given to every gentleman to express his opinion on the subject; and if the gentleman who is addressing the meeting will put his remarks in moderate limits, I am sure that he will be patiently attended to." (Applause.) " Thomas Goode, of Kettering," proceeds to un- burden his soul, and concludes by saying, " I have worked hard. I have a large family. We had twenty children. (Loud laughter.) If I go to Australia I will take two of them with me. I know how to plough, and to mow, and to sow, and to reap, and all other agricultural operations. Besides that I can dig, and I understand well- digging, and the feeding of pigs and poultry, and DRAWING THE FLANS 19 if the Colony wants such a man as me, I am the man to go." Thomas sits down, apparently well satisfied. Whether he came to the Colony or not, history does not record. The chairman puts the final resolution to the meeting : " That amongst the unoccupied portions of the earth which form part of the British dominions, the south coast of Australia appears to be a spot peculiarly suitable for founding a Colony." This is unanimously carried. The labours of the South Australian Association were successful. Much credit is due to Eobert Gouger, secretary of the Association, after whom one of the streets in Adelaide is named. In 1834 a Colonisation Bill passed both Houses of Parlia- ment. Theory is easy ; practice often difficult. It is one thing to draw a plan, and quite another to make the plan effective. So the promoters of the new Colony discovered. It was probable that all their efforts would be abortive. The draughtsmen had been very exacting. One of the provisions of the Bill was that the British Government should 20 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE not be in any way financially responsible. The Board of Commissioners, in wbnm tlie interests of the proposed new Colony were t<» be vested, had to raise the necessary funds. A lar^'e sum of money liad to be borrowed; — £3o,0U0 worth of land had to be sold before the plan could be made oj.orative. This was the difficulty. It was not likely that shrewd capitalists would invest money in a Colony which, as yet, had no real existence. Some were afraid of a second South Sea lUibble. The land would not sell. Wreck seemed inevitable. On every hand there were rocks, and the winds were adverse. It was here that George Fife Angas — one of the Board of Commissioners — came to the rescue. To give the Colony a start he proposed the formation of a company. It was to purchase the necessary amount of land, and to send out implements and workers. The " South Australian Company " was formed ; the necessary amount of capital subscribed. In this way initial difficulties were overcome, and the way was opened up for giving tangibility to the colonisation plan. JOHN ClIAllLES WHITE : A PIONEER WESLEYAN LOCAL PREACHER IN SOUTH AUSTRALIA 22 CHATTER III PREPARING TO BUILD TT is the year 1835. Sheffield, in an ecclesiastical -^ sense, is astir. There has been a clerical in- vasion. ]\roimted on horses, by stage-coaches, and on foot, a great number of strangers have entered the town. They are cleanly shaven ; rolls of white linen are round their necks ; and each wears a dark coat, with a ponderous collar. They are travel- stained. The faces of many are weather-beaten. It is a gathering of Methodist preachers. They have come up to Sheffield, from all parts of the kingdom, to attend the Annual Conference. There are four hundred and eighty-eight in the town. The Napoleon-like Joseph Taylor is there, of whose preaching Adam Clarke said, " It is hot, and heavy, like a tailor's goose." The tall form of the 23 24 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE scholarly Thomas Galland may be seen sauntering through the streets. The oldest preacher in the body, James Wood, has put in an appearance. For sixty-two years he has been a preacher in the Methodist Connexion. The erect and dignified Eichard Eeece is on his way to Carver Street Chapel. Eobert Newton and Jabez Bunting again clasp each other by the hand. No wonder that some of the preachers look anxious, and some are sad. We see them in groups, discussing the situation. The Connexion is in a disturbed state. Methodism is being weighed in the balance. No heart is sadder than the heart of the gifted and able John Stephens. His son, Joseph Eayner, has resigned his position as a preacher, and has not "quietly withdrawn." The Christian Advocate, edited by another son, is blowmg a militant blast. Dr. Warren has taken up arms against the Con- nexion. A revolutionary body has met in Sheffield to demand certain changes at the hands of the Conference. Methodism is "beset behind and before," and heavy hands are laid upon her. Is it any wonder that the minds of many of the preachers are perplexed, and their hearts sad ? PREPARING TO BUILD 25 The Conference is a long one. It is no time of jubilation. For twenty - one days the brethren sit in solemn conclave, and then depart. Not many days after, another meeting, of a very different character, is held. It is not to consider questions of spiritual, but of political import. It is not to bind up the wounds of a stricken Church, but to give a new Colony a start — a Colony in which three sons of the Eev. John Stephens, to whom we have just referred, are to take a promi- nent part. The locality is London, and the place of meeting Exeter Hall. Colonel Torrens, M.P., is in the chair. The Duke of Wellington is not able to attend. His apology is read. There are no anxious faces here, nor sad hearts. It is a jovial gathering. A dinner is being given to Captain John Hindmarsh, E.N., whose ''• appointment as Governor of the new Colony of South Australia His Majesty has most graciously approved." Amongst those present is George Fife Angas,^ to whom South Australia owes much. The " health of the Duke of Wellington, and other members of the House of Lords who supported the Soutli 1 See Life of George Fife Angus, by Edwin Hodder. 26 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE Australian Colonisation Bill," is proposed. The members who supported the IJill in tlie Lower House are honoured in the same way, with " three times three." It is a most enthusiastic gathering. The cheering is " immense." All present seem to be of opinion that the new Colony about to l3e established in South Australia will be a great success. The chairman speaks of South Australia as a land " wliere the climate of Paradise appears to have survived the Fall." In words, more wise, he says : " Britons cannot compel all nations to receive British goods more freely, but they can plant new nations to become customers. They can open unlimited markets in the now boundless forest. ... In the growing markets of Australia, England will find not only increasing supplies of the most valuable materials, but also an increasing demand for her fabrics." In conclusion, he says : " The Colony of South Australia may be considered as now established. Biddings have already been made for the whole — and for more than the whole ^ — of the land required by Act of Parliament to be disposed of before the first expedition shall depart. In a few weeks the first emigrants will be depart- PREPARING TO BUILD 27 ing from these shores ; they will go to eat pleasant bread in a pleasant land, — at all events the prayers of the present company will go with them. . . . Let their ways he ways of pleasantness, and all their paths be peace." After the lapse of more than sixty years, the descendants of the first emigrants can smile at some of these post-prandial remarks. If Colonel Torrens (after whom our city river is named) had been caught in a South Australian dust-storm, or had sat in a shepherd's hut with the temperature 114 degrees in the shade, he would have had grave doubts as to whether " the climate of South Australia had survived the Fall." Probably he would think that it had come under a double curse. But we are in Exeter Hall, sixty-three years ago. Another speaker rises. He tells the company that the first batch of emigrants are " a body of men who, in numbers, in intelligence, in respectability, in everything which constitutes religious and moral worth, far surpass any body of Englishmen who ever thought of settling in a distant Colony since the davs of William Penn. . . . Gentlemen," he 28 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE exclaims, " let us drink to the health, happiness, and prosperity of the emigrants to South Australia. May their community long flourish, a bright image of the moral, social, and political greatness of the parent country, unaffected by any of those evils which are inseparable from old societies." Another speaker is i\lr. John Morphett. He rose to distinction in the new land, and lived to a grand old age. The writer remembers him as a tall, aristocratic-looking man. He became President of the South Australian Legislative Council, and was knighted by the Queen. He has gone the way of all flesh, but his memory is perpetuated in Morphett Street and Morphett Vale. He responds on behalf of the emigrants. "In heart," he says, " I am now a South Australian." The Governor-elect is now on his feet — no ordinary man. The memory of such brings a flush of pride to the cheek, and makes an English heart, though born in Australia, beat quick. He had fought under Xelson at the Nile and Trafalgar. Such was his gallantry that Nelson summoned him to the deck, and thanked him in the presence of the officers and crew\ " As Governor of South PREPARING TO BUILD 29 Australia," he says, " I will continue to do my duty." The Aborigines are not forgotten. " My power as Governor," he says, " will be of little avail without being seconded by the exertions of the colonists. I therefore call upon them to second me in this good work, and, above all things, to prevent the Aborigines from imbibing from them a taste for that bane of humanity — spirituous liquors ; and I consider the most effective way the colonists can do this will be by setting them an example in forming one vast temperance society." Alas ! such good advice, in relation to some of the colonists, was thrown away. The Aborigines suffered much from their contact with unprincipled and lecherous whites. They soon learned to drink, swear, gamble, and to commit baser sins. While as yet the first settlers dwelt in tents and bough- booths on the shores of Holdfast Bay, notices were fastened to the gum-trees offering a reward for information as to the persons who supplied drink to the Aborigines. To - day they are a weak, degraded, decimated race, doomed to speedy extinction. The first batch of emigrants did not leave 30 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROAfANCE England so soon as Colonel Torrens anticipated. It was not till February 1836 that the two first vessels — the John Piric and the Uakc of York — left the old land for these shores. These vessels were sent out by private enterprise. They belonged to the newly-formed South Australian Company. PROCLAMATION TREE, HOLDFAST BAY, 1898 32 CHAPTER IV LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS "OEFORE South Australia was colonised there "^ were a few white settlers upon its shores. They lived on Kangaroo Island. It was so called by Captain Flinders, who discovered it in 1802. At that time the island was uninhabited. About seventeen years after Flinders' visit there were at least two white men upon Kangaroo Island. How they got there we are not in a position to state. They were either escaped convicts from some of the older settlements, or runaway sailors. In course of time these were joined by others. Wild men they were— hard as the rocks ; salt as the sea. Away from the restraints of civilisation they led a lawless life. The conscience was seared ; the spiritual instincts blunted. Apparently, they had 3 34 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE no higher ambition in life than to gratify their material instincts. In a epiritual sense they must have descended almost to the level of the kangaroos. Their time was spent in whaling, sealing, and wallaby hunting. Sometimes they made a trip to the mainland and stole some of the blacks. One of the early emigrants, who came by the Africane in 183G, has left on record a description of one of these marauders. She says : " We next proceeded around the island, and as we entered Nepean Bay the flag was hoisted and two guns fired to announce our approach. A boat, in which was a gentleman of the name of Samuel Stephens (who came out in the Duke of York) came off, rowed by four men, one of whom was Nathaniel Thomas, and had been resident on the island many years, but his appear- ance, I thought, was more like that of a savage than an Englishman. This man, by some mischance, fell overboard, and, as the tide was running strong at the time, he was carried some distance from the vessel before assistance could be rendered, and, although he could swim well enough, he was watched by those on board with considerable anxiety on account of the sharks, which were LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS 35 known to be numerous. An oar, however, was thrown to him, on which he got astride till the boat reached him ; and when he was again on the deck he shook himself like a dog does when just out of the water, and took no more notice of the matter." ^ Before the year 1836 these white buccaneers had a whole island to themselves. They were " monarchs of all they surveyed," their right " there was none to dispute." But a change M'as coming. In 1836 a vessel hove in sight. We can imagine how curiously some of the natives on the mainland may have watched her as she mysteriously tacked along the coast of Kangaroo Island, making for Nepean Bay. At length she dropped anchor. This was on the 29th of July 1836. It was the Duke of York, commanded by Captain E. G. Morgan. She had brought the first contingent of emigrants to the new land. In addition to officers and sailors (who went back with the ship) there were thirteen passengers on board : nine adults and four children. As this event will ever have historical value, we give the names of the passengers : Mr. ^ Diary of Mrs. Robt. Thomas, wife of first proprietor of South A ustralian Register, 36 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE Samuel Stephens (first manager of the South Australian Company) ; Mr. Thomas Hudson Beare, Mrs. Lucy Ann Beare, and the following four children — Lucy, Arabella, Elizabeth, and William L. Beare ; also Charlotte Hudson Beare (afterwards Mrs. Samuel Stephens); and Messrs. Thomas Mitchell, Charles Powel, D. H. Schreyvogle, William West, and C. Neall. These were the pioneer settlers in South Australia — the first contingent of sinewy men and women who were to make " the parched ground a pool," and the " wilderness blossom as a rose." Jetties, of course, there were none. The pas- sengers would be carried " pick-a-back " by the sailors, or wade through the surf to the shore. There seems to have been some competition amongst the passengers of the Duhe of York as to who should be the first to put foot on South Australian soil. The Captain soon settled the question. The boat was launched. "Baby Beare" was put on board. She was rowed to the beach. Amid the cheers of the emigrants one of the sailors carried her through the surf, and planted her feet on the shore. LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS 37 What was the first act of the settlers on reach- ing shore ? To go on an exploring expedition ? To attend to their material wants ? Ko. To give thanks to God. There was neither ordained preacher nor temple made with hands. In the great temple of nature, under the blue vault of heaven, they returned thanks for the mercies of the voyage. Is it not a picture worthy of the poet's muse or the painter's brush ? A little band of men and women — pioneer settlers, nation builders — met on the shores of a country practically unknown. Before them is the ocean. Eiding at anchor in Nepean Bay is the vessel in which they have sailed. Behind is the dense scrub of Kangaroo Island. Away in the distance the mainland, on which they will ultimately dwell. Under foot the beach of Nepean Bay. Captain Morgan stands up. The emigrants cluster around him. Heads are bowed and hearts uplifted while the Captain con- ducts a short service, concluding with extempore prayer. Are not these the " deeds that have won the empire " ? the memory of which should never die. After spending a few hours on shore the emi- 38 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE grants returned to the vessel. Here they spent the night. Next day they made preparations to build huts, and pitched their tents. It was on Kangaroo Island tliat the first settlement was to be formed. Such were the instructions that the South Australian Company gave to Samuel Stephens. Shops were to be erected, and cottages for shep- herds and herdsmen built. This proved to be a mistake, as further on we shall see. What a strange experience the first emigrants' must have been ! How very unreal ! Were they awake, or did they dream ? Had they really left the Old Land ? Were their loved ones the other side of the world ? What a sense of loneliness at times must have come over them ! They had lived in a land of villages and towns ; a land where myriads hurried through the streets. Here neither street, village, nor town could be seen. It was an empty laud. No street since creation had been formed, and no city built. Save the members of their own community, and a few half-savage whalers and sealers, no white face was to be seen. They had been accustomed to the roar of traffic ; here, save the chatter of the birds, the sigh of LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS 39 the wind, or the sough of the ocean, no sounds could be heard. The solitude at times must have been oppressive ; the silence intense. On the one hand, far as the eye could reach, there was in- terminable scrub ; on the other, the trackless sea. But there were gleams of sunshine amid the gloom. They were in a new world. Here were strange fruits and flowers, and trees that never shed their leaves. Here were peculiar insects and gaily-dressed birds. The warble of the magpie made glad the heart, and the weird laugh of the jackass first caused alarm, and then provoked a smile. They saw the wallaby hopping in the scrub ; the emu running along with her chicks ; and, per- adventure, the well-conditioned wombat hurrying to his hole. The heart danced with delight at the sight of a sail. Ere long there was the joy of receiving a letter from " home." How firmly the precious missive would be grasped ! How quickly the recipient would hurry away ! The hand would tremble and the heart beat fast as the fingers tore away the seal. Ah ! there was the old familiar hand, but changed. The letter was blotched and the writing: blurred. Here and there was a stain. 40 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE What did it mean ? A tear — a soul's travail — the liquified love of a father's or mother's heart. How fast the emigrant's eye would fly over the words till the end was reached ! The nerves were steadier now. The reader w^ould begin again. This time the eye would linger over the sentences whilst the soul listened with delight to the music of a familiar voice, and gazed in ecstasy upon a sweet but intangible face. But duty calls. The log fire must be renewed ; the kettle must be himg. The letter is folded up, only to be again and again unfolded and re-read. At night the emigrant dreams. Space is annihilated. He or she is in Old England now. The snow is falling. A little cottage appears in view. There is the garden in which the honeysuckle and jessamine grow. A dear old figure is standing at the gate. A wild blast comes sw^eeping by. The emigrant awakes. Ah ! it was only a dream — a beautiful creation shattered by the scream of an excited parrot or the howl of a hungry dingo. The soul may have seen Old England, but the body is in a tent or reed-hut on the shores of an Australian bay. Shortly after the arrival of the Duhe of York the LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS 41 Lady Mary Pelham dropped anchor in Nepean Bay. There were six passengers on board, and twenty- three officers and men. She was soon followed by the John Piric, laden with stores, carrying fourteen passengers and fourteen officers and men. All these vessels belonged to the South Australian Company. It was private enterprise that fitted them up and sent them out. No emigrant vessel despatched by the Government Commissioners had yet arrived. The Cygnet was the first to set sail, followed by the Piaijid, having on board the Surveyor-General, Colonel Light. There were two questions exercising the emi- grants' minds. One was — Where will the City be Built ? Until this question was settled nothing definite could be done. It was one in which the people had no direct voice. Sole power was vested in Colonel Light. In the way of surveying the country, of fixing the site, nothing could be decided until he came. It was on the 19th of August 1836 that the Rapid rode into Nepean Bay. At once the Colonel 42 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE set to work. Kangaroo Island, as a suitable place for settlement, was condemned. The land was poor. Port Lincoln could not be recommended. The waterway was not sufficiently safe. Much was to be held in favour of Holdfast Bay. The Colonel's position was a most responsible one. It was not a temporary question that he had to settle, but one the effect of which was to continue for all time. It was not for the present genera- tion that he had to decide, but for generations unborn. Posterity must either applaud or con- demn. In fixing the site of the city several things had to be taken into consideration. So far as a mere basis on which to build is concerned, such could easily be found. It was not so easy to find a suitable port, or a stream of water from which the inhabitants could drink. It was these diffi- culties that Colonel Light had to face. For some time he could neither find suitable port nor stream. After a careful examination of the coast both these difficulties were met. An arm of the sea was discovered running several miles inland, offering an admirable shelter for ships. LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS 43 Here the Colonel decided to fix his port. Farther inland a fresh-water river had been found, larger than any yet seen. On the banks of this stream he decided that the city should be built. Four months had passed away since Colonel Light had begun his work. During that time several emigrant ships had arrived. As Kangaroo Island had been condemned, most of the passengers were landed at Holdfast Bay. On Christmas Day, 1836, there must have been about three hundred settlers on South Australian soil. To every community there must be a head. It seems to be a necessity of our nature that there should be some embodiment of law and order, and in every social organism there is some- thing lacking until that necessity is met. It was so in the experience of the early emigrants. The site for the city had been fixed, but the Governor had not yet arrived. How^ anxiously they looked for his advent ! When will the Goyeenok Come ? would be an oft-repeated question. Frequently the eyes of the emigrant scanned the ocean. What 44 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE was the reason of the delay ? At length another sail hove in sight. It was the long-expected and anxiously-looked for H.M.S. Buffalo. It had the Governor on Iward, the Eesident Commissioner, J. H. Fisher, and the Colonial Chaplain, the Kev. C. B. Howard. What excitement there must have been amongst the emigrants ! What demonstra- tions of joy ! Paish - huts and tents would be vacated. Down the emigrants would run, young and old, to the edge of the water. What a motley assemblage ! The tall hat would be in evidence, so would the smock - frock and gaiters. The Governor and party would either have to submit to the orthodox style of transhipment — " pick-a- back " — or take off boots and socks, and wade through the water. The position may not have been a very dignified one, but necessity knows no law, and is no respecter of persons. The Governor was received by the leading men of the small community. There was a preliminary meet- ing in the tent of Eobert Gouger, Colonial Secretary. An adjournment was then made to a larcje gum-tree. The Proclamation was read ! The British Hag unfurled ! A royal salute was LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS 45 fired ! The air rang with hurrahs ! A cold hinch, consisting chiefly of cold pork and a hara, was served up in a very primitive style. The Governor mounted a chair, and gave the first toast, " The King," which was received with " three times three." The national anthem followed. Other toasts were given. " Eule, Britannia " was sung. The emi- grants were well-nigh wild with joy, and the shades of evening brought to a close the most exciting day (save the day of their landing) that they had seen. Is it any wonder that the children of the first emigrants, to this day, on the anni- versary of the Colony, travel to Holdfast Bay in tens of thousands, where patriotic speeches are still delivered, old colonists are honoured, and royal salutes fired ? In the Governor's Proclamation the spirit in which English people set about the work of colonisation, and the basis on which they build, are to be seen : — In announcing to the colonists of His Majesty's province of South Australia, the establishment of the Government, I hereby call upon them to con- duct themselves, on all occasions, with order and quietness, duly to respect the laws, and, by a course 46 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE of industry and sobriety, by the practice of sound morality, and a strict observance of the ordinances of reUgion, to prove themselves worthy to be the founders of a great and free Colony. The Proclamation also stated that the Governor would take every lawful means to secure to the Aborigines all the rights of British subjects. The foundations were now well and truly laid. How the superstructure was reared we must leave for the next chapter. «' J. 03 — — a. -< S J yj e« « ♦ o Si a r- s fo - 1 - 1 . 1 . £ „ ' 1 " < E- < H i i i 1 ! , t i 2 1 I 3 n i^ la ^ B 5 f^ h a C > >• a a d p < 1/1 c a <: ■J a CHAPTEK V RAISING THE SUPEKSTEUCTURE rriHE foundations of the Colony had been laid, now came the work of raising the super- structure. Of the present generation of South Australians it may be said : " Other men laboured, and ye have entered into their labours." In building up the Commonwealth it was under peculiar con- ditions that the pioneers had to work. Says one of the most worthy of them : " Men generally laboured from earlv morn till dusky eve. Eest- less nights were frequent, and hard work by day caused us often to feel weary by the way." Yet there were compensations. As we shall see, there was a great deal of romance about those early days that is no longer possible. If colonists 4 50 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE are more comfortable to-day, their circumstances are more prosaic. We saw that the first temporary settlement was at Kangaroo Island, the second at Holdfast Bay. Here the emigrants dwelt in tents, and rude huts made of rushes and boughs. " Hutting " themselves was the term they used. Some, for the first evening or two after their arrival, had to sleep in the open air. They made for them- selves beds among the bushes on the beach, just above high-water mark. One of the pioneers, who arrived on a Saturday, in January 1837, tells how himself, wife, and two children had to camp in the open air from Saturday night to Monday morning. They then set to work, cutting down trees, and covering them with bushes. In this way (as many others did) they constructed a temporary shelter. The life was rough, but it was romantic. One is reminded of the Feast of Tabernacles, when the Children of Israel dwelt in booths made of boughs. Gentle folk and simple folk, learned and illiterate, dwelt together as one family. One of the pioneers (Mrs. Robert Thomas) has RAISING THE SUPERSTRUCTURE 51 left on record a description as to how the emigrants spent their first Christmas far away from the " dear Old Land." In her diary she writes : "December the 25th, 1836. This being Christ- mas Day, and Sunday, divine service was held for the first time in the hut of the principal surveyor, a short distance from our tents. We attended, taking our seats with us ; the signal for assembling being the firing of a gun. The congregation numbered twenty-five persons, includ- ing the two gentlemen who conducted the service, the thermometer standing at 100 degrees, and most of those assembled lieing in the open air. . . . We kept up the old custom of Christmas as far as having a plum-pudding for dinner was con- cerned, likewise a ham, and a parrot pie, but one of our neighbours, as we afterwards found, had a large piece of roast beef, though we were not aware, at the time, that any fresh meat was to be had in the Colony." Hereby hangs a tale. Where the roast beef came from was at first a mystery. It gives point to the old proverb, "It is an ill wind that blows nobody any good." It appears that the captain of 52 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE one of the emigrant vessels (the A/ricane) had a cow and a calf on board. Whilst the vessel was lying at anchor, for change of scenery and food the cow and calf were transhipped to land. They were placed under the care of one of the emigrants. Unfortunately in one respect, and fortunately in another, the cow was tied to a tree not far from a lagoon. She got over the bank, fell in, and was so much injured that death had to be decreed. She was killed. In this way some of the emi- grants were supplied with a little Christmas beef. There is one sentence in Mrs. Thomas' diary that is very suggestive: they went to the rush- hut of the principal surveyor for divine service, " takinn; their seats with them." Comment is not necessary. Two laymen conducted the service, because no minister of the gospel had yet arrived. From the letter of another lady pioneer ^ we got a very good idea of the pioneer settlement at Holdfast Bay, the settlers, and their surround- ings : " The beach is a very fine white sand, hard close to the water, and then rises to hillocks of deep loose sand, with shrubs growing in it. When 1 Miss Chauncey, published by the South Auetralian Advertiser. RAISING THE SUPERSTRUCTURE 53 we had passed these little banks of sand, which do not extend above a quarter of a mile, we entered a fine open plain, with beautiful trees scattered over it, looking very green, also some shrubs, although at the end of a hot summer. The stores, and a few huts and tents, are erected at the entrance of the plain, and we walked on about three-quarters of a mile, to where many of the settlers had pitched their tents. It appeared like a beautiful park. Some of the trees were large and old. They were chiefly the she-oak, and tea-tree, and gum, and several others we did not know. There were wild strawberries, raspberries, and a sort of cranberry. The kangaroos are scarce, and some have been sold at one shilling a pound. We saw flocks of green and crimson parrots. They were plentiful, and very good eating ; also the bronze-winged pigeon ; cockatoos — black and crimson, and white and yellow. The natives eat rats, snakes, or anything they can find. They will come to shake hands very friendly. They ask for biscuit, and say ' good-night,' which they know to be a sort of salutation, so say it any time. There was a woman buried last night who came in the Coro- 54 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE mandel. A party of natives attended, and seemed very much affected, putting up their hands ; and an old man whom they called Ginykin — their chief, we think — wept. They are very superstitious and very idle, lying under a tree all day ; but in the evening tliey have a dance, or merry-making they call ' corrobery.' One of the first things we noticed, on entering the settlement, was the truly English custom : I mean several printed bills — one a caution, the other a reward. The caution was a high fine on any person found giving spirits or wine to the natives ; the reward was £5 for the discovery of a person who had already transgressed the orders. There were several others posted about on the gum- trees. . . . There was a dance in the evening, under a large tent, or rather made of one of the sails of the ship, which Captain Chesser put up for the purpose of inviting Coromandel emigrants from ' Coromandel village,' as they call the assemblage of (tents) they are in, till the wooden ones are built in Adelaide. . . . We all rose early, with parrots chirping over our heads, and breakfasted with Mrs. Brown. The coffee mill is nailed to a tree outside the tent, and the roaster stands close by the side. The fire for RAISING THE SUPERSTRUCTURE 55 cooking is on the ground close by. The fresh branches of gum-trees burn like dry wood ; firing will cost us nothing for many years. Each family has erected a tent under a tree, and dug a well by the side of it. . . . Water can be had for digging about six feet — all over the plains, called Glenelg. . . . The trees are generally from fifty to a few hundred feet apart, and mostly without any bush between." The above are the first impressions of one of the early emigrants, who was evidently of a very observing turn of mind. The romance was not all joyous. One of the first settlers complained of the fleas in the sand hills, and the mosquitoes, no doubt attracted by the lagoons. Tlie ubiquitous rat had also made its ap- pearance, and was making inroads on scanty stores. After the site for the city had been fixed, a move was made from the temporary settlement on the coast to the environs of the prospective town. There were neither roads nor conveyances. The emigrants had to walk through the woods to the city site (a distance of about seven miles), and transport their possessions as best they could. Some were fortunate enough to secure the services 56 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE of a small luind-cait. Some had to carry furniture, as well as children, in their arms. The land on which the city was to be built not yet being available, another temporary encampment was formed. The locality was the banks of the Torrens, between what is now called North Terrace and the river. The settlers had few of the advantages of civilisation. There was neither slate, shingle, board, nor galvanised iron depot. Some of the huts were comi^osed of mud and grass, covered with reeds; others were wooden frames on which canvas was stretched. "Government House" — the "Vice- regal Mansion," as it was sarcastically called — was a wattle and daub hut. In wet weather it was a difficult matter to keep rain out. The " hut-wife " had to resort to various expedients. Sometimes umbrellas were propped up to keep goods dry. Some of the emigrants, before leaving England, had made arrangements for a few small houses, ready made, to be shipped. They were to come by the Tarn o Shanter. Unfortunately, as the vessel was sailing from Kangaroo Island to what is known as Port Adelaide, she struck on a sand bar, and RAISING THE SUPERSTRUCTURE 57 had to remain there some time. Says one of the pioneers : " The sailors had to attend to the ship, and we had to do as best we could. Some cut down a few light saplings, and, putting them together as well as they were able, went down into the bed of the river, and cut some grass with which to make a kind of wurley hut, into which we had to go, and there spend the winter, improving the place a little as the days went by." We were " frequently obliged to fix up umbrellas, etc., to keep off the drenching rain, no other means being available at the time." These privations were not without their advan- tages. They developed thrift, determination, self- reliance. The early settlers did not " run to the Government " when they wanted a bed or a new broom. Tradition says there was a time when the Government Treasury contained but eighteenpence. One who came to the Colony in the early days, and who published his reminiscences at " home," thus describes the temporary settlement on the banks of the Torrens : " The huts were scattered about without any attempt at regularity or uniformity. Every man had built his house on 58 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE the spot where whhn or choice pointed out, or where material was easiest got ; the consequence was, that a collection of as primitive-looking wig- wams as can be well imagined soon lined the banks of the Torrens — some of them facing the east, some the west ; in fact, every point of the compass might have claimed one or more facing it. They stood just as though a mad bull had been playing his antics among them, and had tossed them hither and thither. Nor was the appearance of the dwell- ings less amusing or extraordinary than their general positions. Most of them possessed an aperture to afford egress and ingress ; but few, if any, could boast of a window of any kind. A fire- place was not deemed essential, though several had an opening at one end, surmounted by an empty pork cask deprived of the ends, to serve as a chimney. A great portion of the emigrants, how- ever, contented themselves without a fire, except outside, where it might be seen blazing, with a pot hung over it a la gipsy." An old colonist (J. W. Bull) says : " It was not an unusual thing, in hot or showery weather, to see a lady watching a kettle or camp-oven under an umbrella." RAISING THE SUPERSTRUCTURE 59 Here and there, in the temporary encampment that we have described, there was some little attempt at order. It was only natural that emigrants who came out in the same ship would desire to pitch their tents or to build their huts together ; so in the fugitive settlement on the banks of the Torrens there was a " Buffalo Eow " and a " Coromandel Eow." Evidently, the emigrants who had come by the Buffalo and the Coromandel had pitched their tents in a line together. "Buffalo Eow " stood between the Torrens and the present site of Trinity Church ; " Coromandel Eow " a little eastward. There was a great deal of romance about these far-off times. Everything was new. There was no snobbery. The settlers led a free, unconven- tional kind of life. Servants were difficult to get. Those who came out soon got married. Ladies had to do what is termed menial work. A pork barrel, end up, or a packing case, served as a table ; boxes and trunks did duty as seats ; rushes made a com- fortable bed. Tin pannikins were used for tea. Ship's biscuit and salt pork was the staple food. Sometimes there was a welcome variety in the 6o A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE funn of wallaby or native birds. The settlers liad their social gatherings in tents and huts. The red-letter days were the days when a letter was received from " home," or an emigrant vessel came in. After a short time the " first-comers " were amused by seeing " new chums " marching up to the settlement with guns over their shoulders and pistols in their belts. Says one of our lady pioneers : " The few people here were like a happy family out for a lengthened picnic. . . . Xo person arriving now can form any idea of the life of the early settlers. It was sometimes very hard to forget all that we had left in the old country, and particularly friends, and to determine to make the best of our surroundings ; but all managed to put up with the roughness, and be contented. Happily, there was scarcely any sickness in the population. No false shame troubled us. If friends came in they were welcome. "We might be ironing, cook- ing, or working at any menial occupation, and it made the occupation pleasanter to have a friend to chat to. The first wedding I attended was in winter. It being too muddy to walk, we went in a bullock-dray. . . . No one appeared to fear for the RAISING THE SUPERSTRUCTURE 6i future, although, of course, no one could anticipate what the future might bring forth." Judging from some of the letters written home by the emigrants, they seemed to be quite satisfied with their lot. The following is a copy of one : — To- I write to you according to promise, hoping, at the same time, yourself, wife, and children are well, as we are at present. I did not write before, for I wished to send you some particulars of the place. We sailed from England the 25th of Sep- tember 1837, and had a most beautiful voyage, for we could have come the whole distance in a long- boat. We were four months on our passage. . . . This is one of the loveliest countries ever seen. The town is on a rising ground about seven miles from the sea, . . . with high mountains in the rear. It is a lovely black soil, and capable of producing any- thing. The trees are green the whole year. Things grow here with astonishing rapidity, and finer than ever were seen in England. The Colony is increas- ing very fast, and all manner of trade is fiourishing, especially the builders'. . . . John, if you were out here you would do well, for you could start in business for yourself. . . . This is the land of plenty. A steady man, who is industrious, in a few years may make a comfortable fortune. ... I should like very much to see you out here. . . . Come as soon as you can, for the early - comers get the best chance. 62 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE No wonder that there was a fascination for English folk about letters like this, especially when they were garnished with references to black- fellows, kangaro(js, and emus. The " comfortable fortune," of which the emigrant above quoted speaks, was more imaginary than real. After Colonel Light had fixed the site for the city there was considerable dispute. Some wanted it in one place, and some in another. Governor Hindmarsh was pleased with the surroundings, but thought that the city would be too far from the harbour. He expressed a preference for Encounter Bay. Fortunately, Colonel Light's power in the matter was absolute. He manfully stood his ground. Experience has demonstrated the wisdom of his choice. A more suitable site for the city (after more than sixty years' experience) it would be difficult to find. It was within easy reach of the sea, and was surrounded by good country, and on rising ground. There was fresh water in the Torrens, and the eastern hills formed a beautiful background. Some of the descendants of the pioneers may imagine that the city site and its environs were denselv covered with scrub. Such RAISING THE SUPERSTRUCTURE ^2> was not the case. To the north the country was open. There were belts of gums lining water- courses. To the south the country was well wooded, in many places resembling an English park.i Fifty years after the site for the city had been fixed, when celebrating the Colony's Jubilee (1886), Sir Henry Ayers, one of the most worthy of the old colonists, said : " Can any one at this time, after fifty years' experience, and with all the knowledge possessed of our extensive seaboard, point out any other site so well adapted in all respects, or indeed approaching the suitableness of the one chosen ? Harassed and annoyed by the interference of some, and the criticisms of others, Colonel Light . . . fearlessly acted on his own good judgment, leaving it, as he said, to posterity to decide whether I am entitled ' to praise or blame.' Posterity speaks out to-night, as succeeding genera- ^ The nature of some of the suburban country is evident from the names given to it by the early emigrants : " Goodwood Park," "Unley Park," "Black Forest." These places have lost their park-like appearance, but the writer, as a lad, roamed over them when they were studded with trees. The picture, "A Primitive Australian Scene," will give the reader some idea of the virgin character of the country on which Adelaide and suburbs are now built. 64 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE tions will through all time to come, loudly in praise of the man who, by the exercise of his ability, was indeed the founder of Adelaide, and whose dying wish to be so regarded has been so singularly fulfilled." The same wisdom displayed in the choice of the city site was manifested in laying it out. The city lies foursquare. Provision was made for wide streets, public squares, and a park around the town. At the request of King William iv. it was called " Adelaide," in honour of the Eoyal Consort. In his important work Colonel Light was ably assisted by the Deputy- Surveyor, George S. King- ston (afterwards Sir George), father of the present Premier of South Australia. The Colonel's life in the Colony soon came to a close. Hard work and worry undermined his constitution. He died of consumption in 1839. His heart was always in the city, and his body is buried in one of its squares. A monument marks his resting-place. No such monument, however, is necessary. Prom the top of the Post Office tower to-day a vaster monument — -the creation of his genius — may be seen. RAISING THE SUPERSTRUCTURE 65 To the new Colony the dark figure of dissension came. It appeared in official circles. There were disputes between Governor Hindmarsh and Colonel Light over the city site. There was some wrang- ling over the naming of the squares and the streets.^ In a previous chapter we stated that the interests of the Colony were vested in Commis- sioners appointed by the Crown. A Eesident Commissioner was sent out. This dual arrange- ment — Eesident Commissioner and a Governor — did not succeed. It led to divided authority. They came into conflict. The result was, that before Governor Hindmarsh had spent two years in the Colony he was recalled. On the whole, he had served the Colony well. He made himself one with the people, and was highly esteemed. His farewell words recall the lofty tone of his Proclamation : " If the colonists do themselves justice ; if they respect the laws, and attend to the ordinances of religion ; if they continue the same habits of tem- perance and industry which have so happily pre- vailed. South Australia must . . . realise the most ^ The main streets and squares are named after men wlio took an active part in founding the Colony. 5 . 66 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE ardent wishes of its friends, and acquire, in a few years, a rank among the provinces of the British Crown without example in colonial history." The next representative of the Crown to take up his residence at "Government Hut" — still a mud cottage — was Colonel George Gawler. He had been in the Peninsular Campaign, in which he was wounded, and had fought with great gallantry under Wellington at Waterloo. He arrived on the 12th of October 1838. The Colony had now to pass through a very critical time. Various causes contributed to this : the tide of emigration was too strong ; the money received by sale of public lands was not employed in reproductive works ; the Colony was ruled by a body of Commissioners the other side of the world. In spite of depression, great improvements were made. The city and Colony grew. Huts were superseded by well-built houses, bridges were constructed, and macadamised roads made. These improvements were made in the face of great difficulties and dangers. A great deal of labour had to be spent in clearing ground. The means of transit were slow, and very defective. RAISING THE SUPERSTRUCTURE 67 Nature was not always propitious. The blacks were often a source of trouble, and so were a class of men termed " Bushrangers." These were desperate dare-devil fellows. Some of them were ticket-of-leave men, or convicts who had escaped from some of the older settlements. They were handy with firearms, and sometimes were well mounted on stolen horses. They " stuck up " travellers and out-stations. They made raids upon horses and cattle. Sometimes, under the cover of night, they would visit the city, and commit depredations. " Bail up ! " was the demand, en- forced at the point of a pistol. There was nothing to do but to surrender. Their rendezvous, near Adelaide, was the " tiers " in the hills. Here they lurked in densely-wooded and almost inaccessible gullies. They knew the country well, and police, in the early days, trying to thread their way through the " tiers," would be at the bushrangers' mercy. Fortunately, in those early days, there were two or three police officers as bold as lions. Two of them deserve special mention. Tlieir names were Alexander Tolmer and Henry Alford. They passed 68 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE through some thrilling experiences. In his Reminiscences of an Adventurous and Chequered Career, Alexander Tolmer describes how himself and others captured a party of bushrangers on Kangaroo Island. They were living in the bush, in a wurley, some blacks being with them. " Hav- ing obtained all the necessary information I re- quired respecting the kind of wurley, its position and surroundings, and it being dark, we again moved forward cautiously, to avoid stepping on any dry twig, for fear of giving an alarm, by which means we reached within twenty yards of the camp, and heard the men laughing and talking. Considering the position of the open wurley, the darkness of the night, and the dense scrub that surrounded the place, I deemed it expedient, upon reflection, to defer the capture until morning, which would give us a better chance of success, and accordingly made a sign to the police and our guides to fall back, and we then retraced our steps to where we had left our blankets, etc., under a bush, and there passed a wretched anxious night, supperless and without fire, the only solace being our pipes. At dawn we again approached the RAISING THE SUPERSTRUCTURE 69 camp of the ruflfians with cat-like silence, and, when near enough, crouched behind a bush — not a moment too soon, however, as one of the fellows got up and threw a log on the fire. After waiting until everything was silent, we once more moved forward, r.nd then rushed simultaneously upon the fellows. They struggled desperately, however, and endeavoured to get possession of their weapons ; but we were too nimble for them, and soon had them secured and handcuffed. They turned out to be two men of the 50th Kegiment who were transported to Van Diemen's Land, and made their escape from the Vixen. Our approach to the wurley was so noiseless that the pack of fierce kangaroo dogs (twelve in number) did not hear us ; but when we rushed in they commenced such a furious barking, that, added to the screaming of the native women, the imprecations and deep anathemas of the convicts, the noise was perfectly deafening." The financial position of the Colony, during Governor Gawler's term, became so depressed that he was recalled. His expenditure may have been lavish, but he was an able and energetic officer, beloved by the people. Out of their reduced 55 o RAISING THE SUPERSTRUCTURE 71 resources the colonists contributed £500 as a testimonial. Such was Colonel Gawler's regard for the Colony, and faith in it, that he left the sum to be invested in land on his own account. Captain George Grey (afterwards Sir George) took up his residence at what was now " Govern- ment House." During his administration — wise and effective as it was — the Colony reached its lowest ebb. A policy of retrenchment was put into practice. Valuable mines were discovered. The British Government came to the rescue. A tide of prosperity set in. The success of the Colony was assured. It had now — at the close of Governor Grey's term — been established nine years. RE\^ JOHN STEPHENS 72 CHAPTEE VI THREE BUILDERS OF METHODIST FAME rriHE year 1827 was an eventful one in Methodist history. In the nation at large a revolutionary spirit prevailed. There was a tend- ency to defy law, and to set at nought authority. A revolutionary spirit is contagious. Its influ- ence cannot be restricted. All institutions, more or less, are affected. It creeps into Church as well as into State. It demands ecclesiastical as well as political change. It was so in connection with the Methodist Church in the year 1827. A lawless spirit — a spirit that resented authority — had crept into the Connexion. The erection of an organ in one of the large chapels of Leeds, sanctioned by the Conference, was made the pre- text for a rebellion. The characters of noted 73 74 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE jNIethodist ministers were traduced. A secession took place. The malcontents boasted that they had taken away, from the Leeds societies alone, " twenty-eight local preachers, seven exhorters, fifty-six leaders, and nine hundred members." It was fortunate that the Conference of 1827 had a strong man in the chair — one who stood at least on a par with any of his illustrious predecessors. John Stephens had been elected President. " A noble person ; fine temper ; superior mind ; an excellent preacher " ; such was his character as given by a contemporary. John Stephens was born in Cornwall. He had great natural ability. From a youthful miner he became a distinguished preacher, had charge of some of the most important Circuits, and, in 1827, was elected President of the Conference. This was the man who had to deal with the Leeds secession. He did so in a very effective manner. In an address, delivered at Leeds, speak- ing of the leading spirits in the unhappy division, he said : " Would to God that I could have intro- duced these persons to the deathbed of an old friend of mine, who got to heaven by the skin of THREE BUILDERS OF FAME 75 his teeth. He had been an active agent in a division in a certain town ; and, soon after the separation, he found that he could not have every- thing his own way because they all wanted to be masters. His head was sick, and his heart faint ; and he begged permission to return to the old Con- nexion. He was received ; but he never lifted up his head again among his brethren with confidence. God had forgiven him, but he never could forgive himself. ' Oh, sir ! ' said he, ' I was instrumental in taking away two or three hundred souls, but I could not keep them together; they were there- fore turned adrift, and many of them got into the world. When I think of these souls my heart is almost fit to break.' This man came to his death- bed. It fell to my lot, as it accorded with my inclination, to visit him. The blood of souls was in his skirts, and he sank deeper and deeper into despair. ... I talked with liim, and prayed with him ; but the heavens were as brass. ... It seemed as if God had shut up His bowels of tender mercy against him. He continued so till near midnight, when one glimmering ray of light darted into his mind. . , . The little ray brightened into 76 A SOUTH AUSTRALIA A^ /ROMANCE a Hood of light, and the next day he died happy in God." ^ In view of the stoi-y that we have to tell, these el(jquent words have increased pathos. Three sons of this " remarkable man " (as Dr. Smith terms him) in the early days came to South Australia, Their names were Samuel, John, and Edward. In different ways they helped to lay the foundations of the Colony. Samuel represented the pastoral and agricultural interests; John, the press; and Edward, commerce. Samuel Stephens Samuel Stephens was the first adult colonist to put his foot on South Australian soil. He came, as w^e have seen, by the Dulx of York in 1836, and landed at Kangaroo Island. On the voyage out, service was conducted by him each Sunday, and on Wednesday evenings. He was sent out by the South Australian Company as its first manager, and was the leading spirit at the Kangaroo Island settlement. Samuel Stephens married Miss Charlotte Hudson ^ Smith's History of Methodism. THREE BUILDERS OF FAME 77 Beare, a fellow-passenger. In this way he became related to Mr. William L. Beare, who, as a lad, came out in the same vessel, and who " continues to this day." Every detail in relation to the pioneers and their mode of life is of value, and will become increasingly so as the years roll by. From the letters of early emigrants we get glimpses of the son of the Eev. John Stephens and his new surroundings. Under the guidance of these we see several tents and rude huts not far from the beach at Nepean Bay, Kangaroo Island. A number of people are moving about the beach, some dressed in smock-frocks and gaiters. A Ijoat is being rowed from an emigrant vessel to the shore. Presently depth of water fails. The passengers are either carried by the sailors or wade through the water to the beach. They are met by Samuel Stephens, and conducted to his tent. Lunch is prepared. He takes them to see the site on which his cottage is to be built. It is on a gentle slope. In the foreground there are native shrubs almost down to the water's edge, and a fine view of the ocean. There are several Cash- 78 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE mere goats, imported by the South Australian Com- pany, browsing the herbage. Some poultry are busy examining tlie nature of the new country. Cattle there is none. Mr. Stephens and his party go for a short walk in the bush. They come to a piece of land that has been cleared. It is a burial- ground. Already there are two graves in it. How very suggestive ! What a lesson it reads in human mortality ! How soon the most recent and smallest community needs a cemetery ! As soon as we provide homes for the living, a place must be prepared for the dead. The party walk back to the beach, gathering shells and sponges. Fare- well words are spoken. The visitors take their seats in the boat. Samuel Stephens goes back to his tent ; while the sailors pull for the emigrant vessel, whose destination is Holdfast Bay. After Colonel Light had pronounced against Kangaroo Island as a place of settlement, Samuel Stephens and other settlers removed to the main- land. He imported the first horse into the new Colony. One of the pioneers (Jacob Abbott), who will occupy a prominent position in these pages, describes his first meeting with the horse and its THREE BUILDERS OF FAME 79 owner. Samuel Stephens was walking down the North Terrace of the embryo citj, leading his newly-imported horse. A short distance away was a group of blackfellows. Directly they caught sight of the animal " their expressions of astonishment and horror were indescribable." The men shouted ! The lubras screamed ! The children sought refuge behind their parents. Gradually they became calmer, muttering, " Big kangaroo ! Oh, big kangaroo ! " Alas ! the noble-spirited Samuel Stephens soon came to an untimely end. About 1840 (four years after his arrival in the Colony), riding down one of the hills between Mount Barker and Adelaide, his horse fell. The rider was thrown ; picked up in an unconscious state ; and died a few hours later. He was esteemed by all, and general regret was felt among the emigrants. He has been described to the writer as " a perfect gentleman and model husband." His remains lie (far from the burial-place of his honoured father) in the West Terrace Cemetery, Adelaide, It was Samuel Stephens who granted the use of the South Australian Company's store for the 8o A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE first Methodist service conducted on Kancraroo Island. Shortly afterwards liis name appears as contributing two guineas towards the erection of the first Methodist chapel in Hindley Street, Adelaide. These are the only references that we can find to him in C(jnnection with Methodism in this Colony. Joseph Eayner Stephens Before dealing with John Stephens, passing reference must be made to his brother, Joseph Eayner. Though he did not come to this Colony, yet indirectly he had some connection with it. Strange that a father, who apparently w^as con- servative in his instincts, should have at least two sons who became ultra-radical. The President, who had to deal with the unhappy strife at Leeds, had the mortification, a few years later, of seeing two of his sons in a position of antagonism to the Connexion. Like his father, Joseph Eayner Stephens was a man of great ability — energetic and eloquent. He was received on trial in 1825. In 1832 he was appointed to Ashton-under-Lyne. Here a society was formed to agitate for the disestablish- THREE BUILDERS OF FAME 8i ment of the Church of England. The young Methodist preacher was asked to give the move- ment his sympathy and support. To this he consented. At the inaugural meeting a very able address was delivered by him in favour of Dis- establishment. He went further, taking an official position in connection with the society, and giving the weight of his energy and ability to secure the end for which it had been formed. To say the least, his action was unwise and unfortunate. It had a tendency to stir up strife and division. The Methodist Church, as a body, was not unfriendly to the Establishment. There was a tacit understanding that Methodist preachers would not ally themselves to the movement for separation. Complaints were made to the Chair- man of the District (Eobert Newton), The case was tried at the District Meeting. Joseph Eayner Stephens was requested to resign his position as secretary of the Church Separation Society, and to cease working in its interests. The verdict of the District Meeting was supported by the Conference. Not willing to give the pledge, Mr. Stephens retired from the Connexion. 82 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN- ROMANCE John Stephens The preceding sketch brings John Stephens, who took a prominent part in the founding of South Australia, on the scene. In Chapter III. reference was made to the Christian Advocate and its editor. That editor was John Stephens, so named after his ilkistrious father. Originally the Christian Advocate claimed to be a Methodist paper, though not officially connected with the Conference. Some of the leading preachers wrote for it, The editor became enamoured of the radical spirit of the times. Multitudes read the paper. Dr. Smith (no mean authority) says : " The paper was conducted with ability. Its articles were exceedingly plausible ; and, in the absence of any counteracting agency, few were able to detect its fallacies." It sat in severe editorial judgment upon Dr. Bunting. It is only fair to say that it dealt out to other religious bodies that incurred its displeasure much the same treatment that was meted to Methodism. The paper was condemned by the Conference of THREE BUILDERS OF FAME 83 1833, and the discussion that took place has been put on record : " Theophilus Lessey spoke witli great ability against the course pursued by the Christian Advocate. William Atherton, in very strong terms, condemned the conduct of those preachers who wrote for it. George Marsden reminded preachers who contributed to its columns that their writings were frequently read in pot- houses by drunkards and scoffers. James Dixon spoke of Dr. Bunting as being too great to be injured by things so little ; yet his happiness might be affected by it, and the Conference ought to express some censure upon the paper. Eichard Reece expressed the hope that all the preachers who had in any way given their names to the support of the paper would withdraw them." ^ These critics were some of the most eminent men in the Conference. Such sweeping condemnation would neither curb the impetuous spirit of the editor, nor make the tone of his articles less acrid. The judgment of the Conference on the " Joseph Rayner Stephens Case " added fuel to editorial ^ Dr. Smith's History of Methodism. 84 A SOUTH AUSTKALIAX ROMANCE fire. Under the impression that his brother Joseph liad a grievance, John Stephens took up the cudgels on his behalf. lie was a hard liitter, and, Methodist history says, sometimes very unfair. We state the case in the most charitable way. Dr. Smith says : " The Christian Advocate, impelled alike by the principles that it had adopted, and the interest that the editor felt in his brother, exerted its utmost influence to rouse the members of the Methodist Society to rebellion." He further says that the members and congregations who were influenced by the paper were " beyond calcula- tion." The paper took a prominent part in the " Warrenite Agitation," after which both it and editor pass away from view. It is in connection with the founding of South Australia that John Stephens somewhat abruptly rises again. That he was known to George Fife Angas, one of the founders of this Colony, is evident from a passage in Mr. Angas' published life. He says : " I went over to Blackfriars to see John Stephens." The next we meet with him is in connection THREE BUILDERS OF FAME 85 with the publication of a book. The title is The Land of Promise. It was written in the interests of the new Colony of South Australia, and published in 1838. A second edition was soon called for, and published under the title ^.^^^- CHAPTER VIII THE TRAVELLING PREACHER AND HOW HE CAME A T the close of the last century there was a ■"^^ Methodist class leader living near Bingley, in the West Eiding of Yorkshire His name was Thomas Longbottom. To this worthy man and his wife, in 1799, a son was born. They named him William. That son was to travel far and wide, and to do important work in connection with Methodism. From his infancy he was taught the fear of the Lord, To Methodists living in a Conference town and its vicinity the gathering of the preachers was always an event of great importance. It was then that they had an opportunity of hearing the leading men of Methodism. The Conference of 1818 was held at Leeds. Joseph Benson was 121 122 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAX ROMANCE appointed to preach. Of him it is said that, in spite of a weak, shrill voice, the effect of his ])reaehing was overwhelming. " Ilis weeping and trembling congregations were a[)t to iliink of him ... as an Elijah, surrounded by invisible hosts. At tlie close of his sermons there would be a strain of appeal so cogent, and inspired from above, that every word was like an arrow of the Almighty." Thomas Longbottom travelled to Leeds to hear Joseph Benson, taking with him his son William. •It was a memorable journey. The word came with power to William's heart, and he earnestly sought salvation. About this time there was a spiritual awaken- ing at Bmgley. A special unction attended the ministry of James Blackett and Joseph Beaumont. William Longrbottom began to meet in class. Here he became associated with Thomas Cryer, \vho married the saintly Mary Burton, with the memoir of whom Methodists were once well familiar. There is no record of any special time when peace came to his soul. He took an active part in Sunday-school work and in the Friday evening prayer-meeting. In this meeting three generations THE TRAVELLING PREACHER 12 J of his family were represented — Matthew, Thomas, and William Longbottom : grandfather, father, and son. Frequently their prayers followed in suc- cession. In 1824 William removed to Wakefield. Here he was placed on the plan as a local preacher. Next year he was recommended as a candidate for mission work. While at Wakefield, it was his privilege to be associated with two noted Methodist preachers : William Atherton and James Dixon. In 1826 he was advised by the Missionary Committee to hold himself in readiness to go to Van Diemen's Land. The summons to leave was forwarded, but, through some miscarriage, he did not receive it. Another preacher took his place, and the letter was returned to the Mission House. He was then sent by John Stephens, President of the Conference, to supply in the Otley Circuit, and a few months afterwards was appointed to Newcastle-under-Lyne. The Missionary Committee decided that he should labour in Madras. In 1828 he was stationed at Reading, so that he might take lessons 124 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE from Thomas H. Squance, in the Tamil language. At the ensuing Conference he married Miss Eagland, of Bingley, and shortly after left England, in company with Thomas Cryer and other mission- aries, for Madras. As they sailed away from their native land, little conception did William Longbottom and his young wife have of the varied experiences through which they were to pass, or of the important work they were to do in a Colony not yet constituted. In the list of stations for 1831-32 we read: " Negapatam — William Longbottom." Next year he was stationed at Madras Second ; the year following, Negapatam and IMeluattam. His last station was Madras. In the list of stations for 1836-37 there is a great change. Now we read: " Cape District. — Capetown and Somerset — William Longbottom." The explanation is (as every Indian missionary will surmise), failure in health. He entered into his work, shall we say, with such indiscreet zeal that his constitution was under- mined, and the foundation of a chronic and life- long malady was laid. A sliort residence at the Cape made a temporary THE TRAVELLING PREACHER 125 improvement in his health. But his heart was in India, and to that field he returned. Meanwhile the Missionary Committee, in consideration of his health, had appointed him to Swan Eiver, a convict settlement on the western coast of Australia. Himself, wife, and child set sail from India viA Mauritius. In one sense the voyage was a disas- trous one. The missionary and family were ultimately landed in a Colony that, as yet, had no place on the Minutes of Conference. They were detained at Mauritius nine weeks. From Mauritius they reached Van Diemen's Land. This was the Colony to which he had been appointed in 182G, an appointment that was not then effected through the miscarriage of a letter. At Van Diemen's Land they had to remain five months, awaiting an opportunity to reach Swan Eiver. On the 9th of June 1838 the Fanny, a small vessel of thirty-five tons, set sail for King George's Sound. By this vessel Mr. Longbottom, with his wife and child, had taken passage. Along the Australian coast terrific weather is sometimes experienced. It was so on this occasion. The vessel had not cleared Van Diemen's Land before 126 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE rough weather set in. Twice she put back for shelter. For a time fine weather was experienced. On Sunday, the 17th of June, the wind blew a perfect hurricane. On the following Thursday the water changed colour, and soundings were taken. The captain, not being able to take observations for several days, and not knowing how near the vessel had drifted to land, thought she was passing over a sandbar. It was now about nine o'clock at night. Having had no rest for several nights, Mr. Long- bottom and wife tried to get a little sleep. About half-past one in the morning the sea broke on board in all directions. The captain found himself in only seven fathoms of water. All attempts to sail were fruitless. The vessel struck. " About one," Mrs. Longbottom says, " I was aroused by an unusual rolling of the vessel. Instantly I told my husband that I was sure we were in the surf. After a moment he was convinced that my fears w^ere too well grounded, and, throwing on his rough jacket, was in the act of reaching his cap to go on deck when the vessel struck. No time was to be lost. Providentially, we had lain down in our clothes. I hurried on little William's shoes and THE TRAVELLING PREACHER 127 cap, and, after commending ourselves to God, we endeavoured to get on deck. We found the hatches down, and it was some time before we could malondon he writes : " I am perplexed to know how to act with regard to the rental and furnishing of a house. . . . The cottage Mr. Lungbottom has occupied has two small rooms and a smaller kitchen, all open to the roof (without ceiling), and it atlbrds very little shelter, especially from tlie heat ; and yet it is a favour to have this at £50 a year. The rents are fearfully high, furniture of all kinds is excessively dear." No doubt tlie Missionary Committee would be sympathetic, but we do not think it could do much, in a practical way, to help the yurra), one ; Mount Barker, one. ]\Iy heart would rejoice if, on the arrival of the Stations of the Conference of 1848, the above scheme should be fixed, and a reinforce- ment sent out to enable the district to arrange it. Should I be permitted to witness this, I shall indeed rejoice in the assurance that I have been sent to this Circuit for a most important and valuable end." Mr. Draper makes a special appeal to the missionary authorities in London, based upon the special relationship that many of the emigrants sustained to the Methodist Church at home. It is an appeal that ought to have touched the hearts AA^ ABLE ADMINISTRATOR 183 of the missionary scribes who dwelt at Bishopsgate Street Within. " Numbers," he says, " of those who are scattered up and down this Colony are from your own congregations in England. Their condition is awful. Our hands are full — improperly so ; as to our health, dangerously so. (" I speak as a fool.") "We work as hard as any preachers under heaven ; but still there are many places that cannot be reached. Do, I beseech you, use every means to supply our wants, and generations yet unborn, in one of the most important of the British Colonies, will bless you. We have now about four hundred and sixty members in Society." The good man's heart yearns over Zion. The fields are white, but the labourers few. In the interests of " generations unborn " he urges his plea ; but apparently " Bishopsgate Street Within " gave no immediate sign. " My heart would rejoice," he says, "if, on the arrival of the Stations of 1848, my scheme should be fixed, and a reinforcement sent out." The good man must have been dis- appointed. The English Minutes for 1848 do not show that his desire was met. However — To patient faith the prize is sure. i84 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE The English list of stutioiis for 1849 gives the following : — South Austkalia. Adelaide — Daniel .). Draper, Thomas X. Hull, William C. Currey, William Longbottom, super- numerary. Burra (North IMines)— John C. Thrum. Willunga — William Lowe. The Eev. Thomas N. Hull, who arrived from England early in 1850, deserves a passing remark. He was a gifted man. No mean authority (the late Eev, James Bickford) says : " As a preacher he gained celebrity for his logical acumen, refined taste, exalted eloquence, and impressive appeals." After about five years' service he returned to Ireland. In 1848 Mr. Draper sent statistics of the Methodist Church in the new Colony of South Australia to the missionary authorities in Loudon : — Chapels, 12 ; other preaching stations, 18 ; mis- sionaries, 4 ; Sunday-school teachers, SH ; local preachers, 35 ; class leaders, 30 ; members, 500 ; Sunday schools, 12; Sunday-school scholars, 8 ; attendants upon public worship, 2200. AA^ ABLE ADMINISTRATOR 185 This is a very creditable record for a Colony only then twelve years old. The great event of Mr. Draper's administration was the building of the cathedral of South Aus- tralian Methodism. The church in Gawler Place, in the erection of which Edward Stephens and his wife had taken such interest, became too small,^ It was decided to build a large church in a central position. The foundation-stone was laid by the Governor (Sir H. E. Young) on the loth of July 1850. It was a national event. The entire cost was more than £6000. Without galleries there was sitting accommodation for 800 people. The church was opened on 19th October 1851. This was another gala day in the early history of the Methodist Church. There was a prayer-meeting at seven o'clock in the morning. The record is : " A good time. Many present." The day was oppressively hot, but the people attended in crowds. Many came in from the country. The Eev. John Eggleston came from New South Wales to conduct 1 The Gawler Place Chape], in the early days, was a fine structure, but it has long since disappeared. Where it once stood a large business house now stands. 1 86 A SO mi AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE the opening services. Long before the time for beginning the morning service arrived the chapel was crowded. Mr. Draper conducted the first part of the service, and ^Tr. Eggleston preached the sermon. The text was Ephesians ii. 18. The Rev. J. Gardiner (Presbyterian) preached in the after- noon. The text was Zechariah vi. 13. The chapel was again crowded in the evening, when the Rev. J. Eggleston preached from Isaiah xxvii. 4-G. The Governor, Judge, and several ^Members of Parliament attended the opening services. The collections were: morning, nearly £G8 ; afternoon, £28, 10s.; evening, £47, 10s. Mr. Draper remarks: "Im- mense excitement. Good done." On the following Monday there was a tea-meeting on a magnificent scale, realising £46. The opening services were continued on the following Sabbath. The entire amount raised at the services (including a bazaar) was £1250 — a noble sum for a Colony and a Church only fifteen years old. One cannot but regret that in the building of this magnificent chapel Edward Stephens had no prominent part. However, another name was coming to the front — a name that will always AN ABLE ADMINISTRATOR 187 be honoured in South Australia, and in South Australian Methodism — John Colton (afterwards Sir John), treasurer of the Pirie Street Chapel Trust. He arrived in the Colony in 1839, and for a great number of years was a leading spirit in Parliament, in philanthropic circles, and in the Wesleyan Methodist Church. His name is on the trust deeds of many of our churches, and it was his hand that laid many of the foundation- stones. In 1855 Mr. Draper left the Colony. It had not yet reached its majority, but the success and permanence of Methodism was assured. Mr. Draper saw the membership grow from three hundred and fifty members to over a thousand. The finest of any of the churches yet built in the city of Adelaide by any denomination was erected in his time. In addition, a number of chapels had been built in the suburbs and country. He was the principal factor in extending and consolidating the Methodist Church in the new settlement of South Australia. We close this chapter with an account of the last days of this noted man. We have spoken of " The Piomance of Methodism." That there is such, 1 88 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE the record we have given amply testifies. But romance has a sad side as well as a joyous one ; its dark shades as well as its bright ones. We saw the pioneer Methodist Church in the new Colony in need of a pastor. The need was made the subject of prayer. By the ministry of the winds and the waves an ideal Methodist missionary was cast upon South Australian shores. But in more senses than one, as the sequel will show, the winds and the waves do strange work. When Mr. Draper left South Australia he re- turned to Victoria. In 1859 he was elected President of the Australian Conference. After an absence of about thirty years from Old England he felt a strong desire once more to see his native land. The little Methodist chapel in the village of Fare- ham still attracted him. It would be such a joy to see it once more, and again to tread the lanes that he had so often trodden in his youth. His parents were dead, and many of his early friends were gone, but the village, with the memory of its associations, remained. The buttercups and cow- slips would still bloom, the honeysuckle would be as sweet as ever, and there would not be any AlV ABLE ADMINISTRATOR 189 change in the song of the skylark or the homely note of the cuckoo. In 1865 Mr. and Mrs. Draper were in the Old Land. He had been appointed Eepresentative to the British Conference. It was held at Birming- ham. The fathers and brethren gave him the right hand of fellowship, and he won the esteem of all. He preached in Great Queen Street Chapel, at St. James's Hall, and in the village of Fareham. Here he had the graves of his parents renovated, little thinking how soon he would follow them to the eternal world. After a short and happy holiday in England he was anxious to return : as he remarked to the Hon. W. M' Arthur, " I could spend another year in England very pleasantly, and should like to do so if my conscience would allow me, but I feel that I must get back to my work." He engaged a berth for himself and his wife in the S.S. London. She sailed from Plymouth on 6th January 1866. There were more than two hundred persons on board ;— amongst others : G. A^ Brooke, the eminent tragedian, and his sister ; also the Eev. Dr. Wooley, an able scholar, who was I go A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE on his way out to his professorial duties at Sydney. There a wife and six cliildren were waiting to receive him. Alas ! they waited in vain. A day after they sailed the wind increased in violence. There was a very heavy sea. The following day (Monday) some of the passengers became very anxious. The wind was blowing with great violence. Monday night was a night of distress. Many of the passengers read their Bibles together and engaged in prayer. On Tuesday the large vessel was tossed about like a cork, and whole seas dashed over her. The lifeboat was torn away by the winds and the waves. The masts were broken and the ship dismantled. It seemed as though the raging elements were venting their fury upon what was a noble work of man. Daniel James Draper was not idle. It was not the first storm at sea that he had experienced. About thirty years before, in his first voyage to Australia, in company with John M'Kenny and Frederick Lewis, he had been nearly wrecked. It seemed as though what was once probable would now become actual. No time was to be lost. Now, more truly AN ABLE ADMINISTRATOR 191 than ever, he must have felt the inspiration of the words of Christ : " I must work the works of Him who sent Me, while it is day." He began to point the anxious and distressed to the sinner's refuge — ■ Christ. During the whole of Tuesday night some of the passengers read the Bible in turns. Early on Wednesday morning the captain tried to run back to Plymouth. The storm increased in fury. The sea ran mountains high. Both life- boats were swept away. During Wednesday night one disaster after another overtook the ill-fated London. The engine-room was flooded with water. The vessel was now so damaged that it seemed impossible to keep out the sea. Various expedients were tried. Passengers and crew worked inces- santly at the pumps. Still the water in the engine-room rose higher. The fires were put out. The eno-ines ceased to work. In the midst of all these appalling disasters the noble-hearted Captain Martin remained perfectly calm and collected, never forsaking the post of duty. All that skilful sea- manship could do had been done. He now ordered the maintop-sail to be set ; but the wind tore it to 192 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE shreds. " You may now say your prayers, boys," said he. Thursday morning came. The gale was as fierce as ever. The vessel rolled helplessly in the sea. A tremendous body of water stove in four win- dows of the upper or poop cabin. The passengers and crew had worked nobly at the pumps, but the vessel was now half-full of water. The remaining boats were got ready. The starboard pinnance was lowered, but was almost immediately swamped and sunk. Captain Martin went down into the saloon. " Ladies," said he, " there is no hope for us, I am afraid ; nothing short of a miracle can save us." Said Mr. Draper, very calmly, " Let us pray." The vessel was now settling down. Mr. Draper was constant in his ministrations. Ah ! there were grief-stricken fathers and mothers and little children to be comforted and encouraged. The only comfort now was the hope of meeting in heaven. The passengers were urged to " flee for refuge to the hope set before them." " Pray for me, Mr. Draper ; pray for me," was the cry. What cries went up to heaven from that doomed vessel ! Mr. Draper pleading for the salvation of souls, and AN ABLE ADMINISTRATOR 193 passengers seeking pardon ! " Prepare to meet thy God ! " was the cry of the Methodist preacher. " My friends," said he, " our captain tells us there is no hope, but the great Captain above tells us there is hope, and that we may all get safe to heaven." Prayer was heard and answered. Before the vessel went down there was wonderful calmness on board — a spirit of patient resignation. Hus- bands, wives, and children clung to each other, going simultaneously — not down into the deep, but into the eternal joy and peace of heaven. A boat was launched. Ah ! there were deeds of heroism on board the sinking vessel. A husband was offered by a friend a place in the boat. " No," said he ; " I promised my wife and children to stay with them, and I will do so." ..." Help me," he said, " to move the children to the other side, out of the water." He did so. They then parted — the friend to escape in the boat to tell the tale ; the husband, wife, and children to pass into the eternal world. " They were lovely and pleasant in their lives, and in death they were not divided." The men in the boat wished Captain Martin to join them. " No," said he ; "I will go 13 194 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAX ROMAXCE down with the passengers. Your course is E.N.E." "J'hen, throwing them u compass, he added: " I wish you God-speed, and safe to land." Soon after, the vessel went down stern foremost. Nineteen per- sons escaped in the boat, and were ultimately picked up by an Italian barque. " "When I left the ship," said one of the survivors, " the passengers had given up all hope, but there was a remarkable composure among them, and no loud sounds to be heard. I heard voices engaged in preaching and praying." The last words that the survivors heard Daniel James Draper say were : " Those of you who are not converted, now is the time ; not a moment to be lost, for in a few minutes we shall all be in the presence of our Judge." It is said that he was calm and self-possessed, his wife standing by his side. "When a local preacher in Brecon he had often sung — Happy if with my latest breath I may but gasp His name ; Preach Him to all, and cry in death, Behold ! Behold ! the Lamb. How tragically the sentiment of the verse was realised ! AN ABLE ADMINISTRATOR 195 • From that dark and dreadful scene in the Bay of Biscay there come to us rays of light. Said the heroic Methodist preacher : " Those of you who are not converted, now is the time." ..." There is hope that we may all get safe to heaven." It is probable that that hope was fulfilled. Said the dying thief at the last hour : " Lord, remember me when Thou comest in Thy kingdom." The cheer- ing response was : " To-day shalt thou be with Me in paradise." To the penitent, perishing, praying men and women on board the doomed London, would there not come the same blessed assurance ? Hence the absence of panic — the " peace that passeth all understanding," the trustful resigna- tion. As a person was about to leap into the boat, a young girl put a piece of paper into his hand. On it was written : " Dear mother, you must not grieve for me. I am going to Jesus." If we keep our eyes fixed on the dark aspect of the wreck that we have depicted, our hearts will be inexpressibly sad. To see fathers, mothers, and children locked in each other's embrace, and going down into the angry deep, with a love that was quenchless, is almost too much for human reason. 196 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE Alas ! we are the slaves of our senses. The most real and abiding things on earth are the things that are invisible. Tlie most real thing about the person who is writing this sketch is not the visible and tangible hand that holds the pen, but the invisible and intangible agent that conceives the thoughts, translates them into words, marshals the sentences, and compels the hand to do its bidding — the mysterious " I " that knows itself as distinct from the body. Don't look merely at the lost bodies on the ill-fated London, but at the saved souls. " And the Lord opened the eyes of the young man ; and he saw : and, behold, the mountain was full of horses and chariots of fire round about Elisha" (2 Kings vi. 17). "And Lazarus died, and was carried by the angels into Abraham's bosom." Not the corruptible body, but the living, energising, intelligent soul, by the eye of faith, in the light of Divine revelation, crosses the boundary line of sensual experience. See the spirits of the shipwrecked passengers escorted to paradise — fathers, mothers, and children entering simul- taneously into one of the palaces of the great King. Yes. " In My Father's house are many AN ABLE ADMINISTRATOR 197 mansions : if it were not so, I would have told you. I go to prepare a place for you. And if I go and prepare a place for you, I will come again, and receive you unto Myself ; that where I am, there ye may be also." Grasp this comforting assurance, and our wail of sorrow becomes a shout of victory. As South Australian Methodists, we thank God for the work of consolidation and extension that Daniel James Draper did in the young Colony, and for his comforting, encouraging, and soul-saving ministry on board the doomed London. A fine church in Adelaide has been erected to his memory. 200 CHAPTEE XI AFTER SIXTY YEARS II /TORE than sixty years ago South Australia was a terra incognita. Its interior was as little known as the back side of the moon. No white foot had trodden its vast plains nor climbed its lofty hills. It was like a well - appointed domicile, awaiting a suitable tenant. It was made to be inhabited by the highest type of man, and until the purpose of its creation was realised there was something awanting and amiss. There was no lowing of oxen, nor bleating of sheep ; no ploughman's whistle, nor milkmaid's song; no long, freshly-turned furrows, nor fields of waving corn. The air had not vibrated with the sound of horse's hoof nor the rumble of wheels. The music of the whetted scythe no ear had heard. There were no 201 202 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN J^O MA NCE roads, bridges, fences, nor houses surrounded with Howers and fruit-bearing trees. Save the loud laugh of the jackass, the howl of the dingo, or the war-whoop of the blackfellow, few startling noises were heard. The country abounded in game. Kangaroos and wallabies roamed about in flocks. Here and there families of wombats dwelt in their holes. The emu and her chicks sped over the plain. On the lakes were wild fowl, and the ^Murray teemed with fish. Where Adelaide now stands serpents glided and kangaroos fed. The blackfellow held undisputed sway. His was a free-and-easy kind of life. Except the fear of sorcery, and an occasional tribal fight, there was little to trouble his soul. The day was spent in eating and drinking, making weapons or canoes, netting wild fowl, hunting the kangaroo, and spearing fish. At night there was the mystic corrobery. It consisted of a wild, weird song and dance. Sometimes the dance was very lewd. As a rule, the men danced. The women sat on the ground, and kept time by the knocking of waddies together, or striking rolls of skins with the fist. AFTER SIXTY YEARS 203 Infanticide was a common practice. Often a child was killed as soon as it was born. But there were good as well as evil traits. We have spoken of a few wild white men (whalers and sealers) who had found their way to the South Australian coast before colonisation took place. The Eev. George Taplin, who spent many years among the natives, tells a story that he had heard of those early days. " Some white sealers, on Kangaroo Island, stole from the mainland, near Cape Jervis, three native women, and took them to the island. When the prisoners had stayed with their captors a few weeks, they began to cast about for means to get back to their husbands and friends. At last they found a small dingy belonging to the sealers. It would only hold two. Two of the women had no children, but the third had an infant at the breast ; so the two childless lubras took the dingy and started for the mainland, reaching it in safety. The poor mother, left be- hind with her babe, must have pined sadly for her country and friends ; but nothing was heard of her for some time. One day the natives found her body on the beach, just above high-water 204 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE luaik, witli her baby lied on her back. She had swum Backstairs Passage (about nine miles in tlie narrowest part, and infested with sharks), and then, in a state of utter exhaustion, crawled uji the shore, and died." We have seen the first colonist (Samuel Stephens) put his foot on Australian shore. We have seen the early emigrants' tents pitched amongst the trees and rushes that skirted the shores of Hold- fast Bay. Beds made of rushes ; pork barrels and packing cases extemporised as tables ; emigrants dragging their goods to the site of a city that was yet to be, have passed before our view. Where those tents, sixty-two years ago, were pitched, the large and aristocratic town of Glenelg now stands, which has some of the finest streets that the Southern Hemisphere can show, and its system of deep drainage is unsurpassed. Trams are running in all directions. Through country that sixty years ago was unexplored and unknown, trains now rush, laden with passengers, wheat, wool, sheep, cattle, and mineral wealth. There is a beautiful park round the city : outside are crowded suburbs. The population in and AFTER SIXTY YEARS 205 around Adelaide alone has been estimated at about one hundred thousand. Dotted over the country are towns, villages, gardens, and farms. It seems like a fairy tale. All has been accom- plished in less than threescore years and ten. Sixty-two years ago the population was about five Imndred ; to-day it is more than three hundred ami twenty thousand. In 188G we celebrated our Jubilee. Speaking on that occasion, Sir Henry Ayers, one of the early emigrants, said : " Something must be said of the country we have been in the possession of for tifty years. It may not unreasonably be demanded of us to state what use we have made of the talents committed to our care for the benefit of mankind. We have utilised, for pastoral purposes, many thousand square miles of country, on which depasture some seven millions of sheep, three million head of cattle, and over one hundred and seventy thousand horses. We have brought under cultivation nearly three millions of acres. We have made it a country productive of wool, of corn, of fruit, of wine, of oil, and a land flowing with milk and honey. We have completed tele- 2o6 A SOUTH AUSTRALIA X ROMANCE yiiiphic coiiimiinicatiuii acrosa the continent, and thus brought Australia within speaking distance of all parts of the world. "We have constructed over a thousand miles Adlicrents ..... 79,495 Yet some say that Methodism is dying, or is in a very decrepit state. Surely such critics must move in a very circumscribed sphere, or be subject to some strange hallucination. Still we need to keep our armour bright, tenaciously to grasp the shield of faith, and vigorously to wield the sword of the Spirit. The age in which we live is peculiar. The struggle for existence is keen. The love for amusement has become irrational. The " Higher Criticism" has not been spiritually helpful. It is a difficult matter to make men see and feel the exceeding sinfulness of sin. Eeligious indifference is widespread. ]\Ieii say : " Where is the promise of His coming ? for since the fathers fell asleep all things continue as they were from the beginning of the creation." " This worldliness " has become predominant. A social gospel is being preached that is merely the skeleton of the Christian relisrion. The " man of sin " is at work amongst the masses. There is a growing tendency to sub- AFTER SIXTY YEARS 211 vert social order, and to set at nought authority. If we have our fathers' zeal we have not our fathers' success. The vitality, permanence, and extension of Methodism depends upon soul-con- verting energy. Sixty-three years ago one of the great men of middle Methodism (Peter M'Owan) said : " While other Churches regard revivals as gracious singu- larities in their history, we ought to consider their frequent occurrence as essential to our very exist- ence. Few persons join our communion till they are awakened from the sleep of nature ; for our doctrines, as a whole, are such that natural men cannot receive ; our discipline is such that they cannot, for any length of time, brook ; and as the chief term on which we admit to membership is a ' desire to flee from the wrath to come,' it is not to be expected that they will seek admission till they feel themselves really exposed to wrath. If conversion work, therefore, vrere to cease among us, the extinction of our societies, or a radical change in the spiritual character of our economy, would be inevitable." These are wise words — true as they are wise ; and we ought seriously to ponder them. 2 12 A SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ROMANCE If tlio soiil-oonvertini: power ceases — if intelleda- alifnii takes the place of cvawjelicism — ^lethodism must decline, and cease to be. Let us lay other wise words of the same Methodist preacher to heart. He says : " We stand in the relation of fathers to the generations yet to come, and it is our indispensable duty to pray that the system whicli has proved in the hands of the Spirit of God saving to ourselves may not be deteriorated by our means. . . . We found it distinguished by an evangelical creed, a heart- searching and awakening ministry, and we must pray that the spirit-stirring energy of our pulpit ministrations may be preserved and increased. . . . We found it spiritual in its economy and leading design, and on no account must we prostitute it to the purposes of party politics. We found its genius aggressive and inspiring, so far as the destruction of the kingdom of darkness is con- cerned ; and if we would benefit mankind, we must foster this thirst for conquest. . . . We found it, in an especial sense, benignant to the poor, and divinely fitted to benefit the outcast portion of our popula- tion : and if we would escape the curse of those who AFTER SIXTY YEARS 213 rob the poor, we must not mar its happy adaptation to enrich and save the thousands who still have occasion to cry, ' No man careth for my soul.' . . . Though I am neither a prophet nor the son of a prophet, yet I venture to predict that if we thus go on, enlarging and maturing the work at home, — if we fearlessly preach the doctrines of the Cross, and humbly depend upon the energy of the Holy Spirit; if we continue to send out converted missionaries to the heathen ; if we persevere in fostering feelings of loyalty to our sovereign, of charity to our brethren of other denominations, and of love to each othef ; and if all this be done in the spirit of prayer, and with a single eye to the Divine glory, we shall then succeed in consum- mating the lofty and benevolent enterprise which our fathers commenced ; we shall prove that Methodism is but in its infancy, not only in respect of age, but of efiiciency ; we shall accelerate the final victory, which is to place the sceptres of the earth in the hand and the crowns of the earth on the head of Immanuel." 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