GIFT OF 
 
 fj 
 
 
 : 
 
A VISIT TO JAPAN 
 
 IN 1860 
 
 U. S. FRIGATE " HARTFORD" 
 
 A RETURN FROM CHINA BY THE U. S. S. FRIGATE ''NIAGARA" 
 
 TO ADEN AND THENCE VIA THE RED SEA AND EUROPE 
 
 TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 H. P. BJ^n^-r; 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO: 
 
 1878. 
 
WOMEN'S CO-OPERATIVE PRINTING UNION 
 424 Montgomery Street 
 
U. S. 8. SLOOP OF WAR, " HARTFORD.'' 
 
 October 8th, 1860, Monday. 
 My very dear Mother : 
 
 I addressed a letter to you from Shanghai 
 by the last mail, in which I advised my intended 
 departure for Nagasaki and Kanagawa, in this ship, a 
 guest of the ward-room officers, and I might add, of 
 the captain, for it is in his cabin where my own state- 
 room is assigned me. I passed ten days at Shanghai 
 in visiting and being received by friends there con. 
 nected with various commercial houses, and left with 
 regret, for I like the people and the place. Whenever 
 the Chinese Empire settles into order, its government 
 becomes firm and universal, and trade assumes its 
 once universal importance and regularity throughout 
 the length and breadth of the land, the rivers become 
 open to our steamers, and the rebellion subsides, 
 Shanghai, by its position, will become the most impor- 
 tant port. It sits upon the Woosung river, near the 
 Yang-tze-Kiang, which will float down upon its bosom, 
 ere many years, and in our own steamers too, the 
 increasing products of the most productive provinces 
 of the Central and Flowery Kingdom. The mail which 
 went last, conveyed to you the failure of the attempt at 
 double dealing on the part of the Chinese commis- 
 sioner with Lord Elgin at Tientsin, and the advance 
 to within five miles of Pekin, of the English and French 
 forces, where, and where alone, Lord Eigin says he 
 will now negotiate. But now I will turn to myself. 
 
I came on board this ship on Friday noon. We started 
 at 2. P.M., and steamed down river, passing Woosung 
 at 3 P.M., and at 10 P.M. we discharged our pilot, and 
 were at sea. During our trip down river, the United 
 States steam dispatch boat, " Saginaw," passed us 
 with Mr. Ward on board. He left an hour after us, 
 bound to Hong-Kong. Saturday, our first day at sea, 
 was calm and delightful, our ship steaming eight knots 
 per hour, no canvas set, through a smooth sea. I 
 will just add here, that Nagasaki is four hundred and 
 twenty miles from Shanghai, and that to-day, at noon, 
 we were still one hundred and forty miles distant. 
 On Sunday, our second day, our calm was interrupted. 
 The pure, cold northeast wind poured down through 
 the straits of Corea the strength of the monsoon, and 
 with a high sea, impeded our progress, as it was in 
 our teeth, exactly. But though the day was so rough 
 as to prevent having divine service, yet it was nothing 
 to the succeeding night. I think even you, with all 
 your forbearance and patience, would have been 
 positively miserable. The fresh breezes of the day 
 increased at night to a moderate gale, while the sea 
 rolled against our sides, causing the huge ship to 
 tremble and shake from stem to stern. 1 slept upon 
 my stateroom floor, for to keep in my berth was too 
 much of an experiment to trust to. I made the passage 
 from New York to China without once being: seasick; 
 but I confess, last night brought me to a compromise. 
 I was very seasick for half an hour. To-day, Monday, 
 has been quiet, and the ship moving gently, though 
 the northeast wind is too strong to allow us to keep on 
 our course. And now I will speak of the ship. 
 
She is a fine model for sailing; and is intended for 
 sailing, not for steaming, though the propeller is a 
 good one, yet only intended for calms and to act as an 
 auxiliary. She is of about eighteen hundred tons 
 register, about 230 feet long. She has on board 336, 
 crew and officers, beside Mr. Coolidge of Boston, a 
 young Mr. Fearing (a guest of the midshipmen) and 
 myself. Commodore, or rather flag-officer Stribling, 
 has his cabin by himself, below on the same deck with 
 the wardroom officers. Captain Loundes, an elderly 
 gentleman, has his cabin on the upper deck; while 
 the wardroom below contains five lieutenants, three 
 surgeons, purser, master, commodore's clerk (Charles 
 Downes) and captain and sergeant of marines. These 
 are all very kind to me, and do all they can to make 
 me a welcome and satisfied guest. The table is ex- 
 cellent, and though all are extremely temperate, yet 
 constant jollity and pleasantry enlivens every meal. 
 By the way, the engineer-in-chief is a wardroom 
 officer. The crew is divided, as is usual in a man-of-war, 
 into bodies styled fore, main and mizzen topmen, into 
 watches of ninety men each, and then all are under the 
 orders, respectively, of the officer of the deck or 
 lieutenant, relieved every four hours, boatswain and 
 captain of the tops. A body of thirty marines are also 
 a part of the company. They dress on week days, in 
 light blue trowser and jacket, with a glazed cap on the 
 front of which is " U. S. M." On Sundays, at ten, 
 they appear at quarters in full uniform a flowing 
 feather in high hats and a handsome uniform. This 
 term, "going to quarters, "I will explain. But first, 
 let me give you the daily routine of the ship. At 
 8 A.M. the flag is hoisted, while the band, consisting 
 
6 
 
 of twelve pieces, play the " Star Spangled Banner. " 
 We then breakfast at ten A.M.; the drum rolls and 
 every one goes to quarters, that is, appear on deck, 
 the officers with side arms, and the men are ranged 
 along in their respective bodies ; each lieutenant has 
 his, the engineer all his, except those attending the 
 engine; the captain of marines has his men drawn 
 up in a double line, muskets in hand; every gun of 
 the battery has its quota of men at its station, twelve 
 at each ; the lieutenants, the captain of marines and 
 the chief engineer then step forward and salute the 
 commander, announcing his respective division to be 
 in order and present, which he, in turn, acknowledges 
 by touching his hat. All this time, perfect silence is 
 maintained, and immediately the commander has re- 
 ceived the report of the officers, and during this silence, 
 the chaplain steps forward and makes a prayer, every 
 head, of course, uncovered. This over, the men dis- 
 perse ; the officers send their side arms below, and 
 nothing more ensues than the ordinary duties of sail- 
 ing the ship, until 4 P.M., when the same is gone 
 through with. The band then comes aft and plays an 
 hour, and this finishes the day. Target practice at 
 sea, is very common, but we have had none as yet; the 
 weather being bad has kept us back, and now we have 
 no time to stop the ship for it. 
 
 The " Hartford" can carry a battery of twenty-six 
 eight-inch shell guns, but she has now sixteen nine- 
 inch shell guns, weighing from nine to ten thousand 
 pounds each a beautiful battery, and all on the upper 
 or main deck. 
 
 I am writing you while we are moving on toward the 
 coast of Japan, at the slow rate of seven miles per 
 
hour, with contrary wind. She rolls considerably, and 
 therefore 'tis not easy to write; but I am beginning this 
 early, as if we get into Nagasaki, I shall wish to have 
 a line ready for you. So far as I know now, it is in- 
 tended that this ship shall remain at Nagasaki four 
 days, then proceed in charge of two government pilots 
 through what is termed the " inland sea," remarkable 
 for the wonders of its scenery, to Kanagawa, some 
 five hundred miles, the seaport of, and distant from 
 Jeddo eighteen miles. This remarkable inland sea is 
 said to take us along the main land and through in- 
 numerable island passages, where cultivation on ail 
 sides, with high lands, render the whole passage the 
 most beautiful conceivable. Charles Downes, the com- 
 modore's secretary, told me he had told him he should 
 anchor every night, and run day times, in order to see 
 the beauties of this passage. This is one of the ad- 
 vantages I possess in being in this ship. It is expected 
 that the " Niagara" will soon reach Kanagawa with 
 the Japanese commissioners, and very probably a party 
 will then be invited to go to Jeddo. If so, I trust I 
 may be one. You may not, however, be aware that 
 though the respective ministers reside at Jeddo, yet 
 no citizens of any country are allowed to go up, except 
 by invitation of the minister. Eeport says, that our 
 minister lives at Jeddo, in a state of inebriety and im- 
 morality, which, with the advantage of seclusion from 
 his countrymen, affords him additional ground for re- 
 fusing to invite or see them. 
 
 I might have said that on the first afternoon of our 
 being at sea, just at sundown, the shrill whistle of the 
 mate, followed by the hoarse roar of the boatswain's, 
 "All hands attend to bury the dead," resounded fore 
 
and aft. Every one was present whose duty could be 
 set aside, service read, and the body slid into the blue 
 sea, which closed over it. 
 
 Mr. Coolidge I find a delightful man, and have had 
 many an hour pacing the deck or sitting in conversa- 
 tion with him. He says he belongs to a Wednesday 
 club with Dr. Homans, but as he is away so much, I 
 should think he could seldom be present at it. He 
 left home last May. 
 
 I hope the " Judge Shaw " arrived all right, with 
 those toilet sets, unbroken; if not, I shall be furious. 
 Ain't you afraid ? Well, I must stop. I have been 
 writing in the first lieutenant's room. I will go up 
 now, have a chat with the commander and turn in, as 
 we say. I hope not only you and all our family, but 
 also that uncle George is well. 
 
 October 10th. I wrote the last two leaves at sea, 
 this one 1 commence in the harbor of Nagasaki, at but 
 9 P.M., after having been at anchor a day and a night. 
 We arrived here last evening, at 7 P.M., (the 9th). 
 The harbor entrance is narrow and beautiful, the land 
 high on either hand, and cultivated from the edge 
 of the sea to a thousand feet up the highlands. 
 Every hill, every foot of soil, everywhere is cultivated 
 in beds or patches, except at the tops of the moun- 
 tains, where woods are permitted to grow. As we 
 entered the harbor, we passed the cliffs, where, in 
 1500, many thousands of Christians perished in being 
 hurled down by order of the government; that was 
 when 800,000 Christians were destroyed in Japan. 
 This, too, is the city where the poor Macao catholics 
 in 1520, were beheaded ; a scene represented by the 
 old painting now in Macao, of which I have written 
 
9 
 
 you before. As we first made the land we discovered 
 the fact of great depth of water, bold shores and vol- 
 canic character of the hills ; in fact, we saw a hill 
 upon an island, emitting smoke, where, 'tis said, some 
 fourteen volcanoes exist. You can, perhaps, under- 
 stand the feeling that came over me, when last evening 
 our anchor dropped from this beautiful ship into this 
 beautiful harbor. The idea that I was in Japan, in a 
 port known to the Dutch for two centuries, I could not 
 realize. Of course, 'twas too late last evening to go on 
 shore, so we waited until this A.M. at 10. The captain 
 of a Russian man-of-war called last evening, also a 
 Dutch lieutenant and a messenger from the English 
 consul. 
 
 This morning, at quarter before nine, the Dutch sa- 
 luted us, and at nine the Russians ; both salutes we 
 immediately returned twenty-six guns. At 10 A.M., 
 Mr. Coolidge, myself and six wardroom officers took the 
 third cutter and were pulled ashore by a man-of-war's 
 crew of twelve men. Here we received our first im- 
 pressions of Japan and the Japanese. We visited Nag- 
 asaki, as also the Dutch settlement known as Decima. 
 This Decima is the island which the Dutch, for two 
 centuries, have been allowed to land upon, when their 
 one vessel a year came from Holland to Japan; and I 
 have to-day walked over that identical stone bridge, 
 which connects the island with Nagasaki, and which 
 you may recollect old Mr. Gregerson once said at our 
 house he had crossed, when a boy at sea as a cabin 
 boy in a Dutch ship in the capacity of servant to the 
 captain. 'Tis a short bridge, only fifty feet wide and 
 as long, but 'tis remarkable when you contrast the re- 
 straint once laid upon foreigners in crossing it, who 
 
10 
 
 five years ago would have met death in attempting it, 
 and to-day we have been all over the town. We visited 
 the stores of lacquered ware and china ware, and also 
 shops containing silk and cotton goods. Their pro- 
 ducts are fair. Strangers have to change their Mexi- 
 can silver dollars at their custom house into the sil- 
 ver coin of their country, in order to buy the least 
 thing. Well, what shall I say of the Japanese ? They 
 beat all my comprehension. No nation are like them. 
 Their streets are clean and neat. Military stations are 
 frequent, and double-sword officers are constantly 
 passing by. But the customs of the people are an- 
 tagonistic to our own as much as possible. For in- 
 stance, we visited in our walks, public bath-houses, 
 where men and women, old and young, were promis- 
 cuously bathing together. Not as at Cape May or 
 Newport, but lacking the bathing dress. I infer that 
 the law of decency or virtue is unknown here except 
 after marriage. 'Tis the rule here that females are to 
 have lovers, many or few, until marriage, but if after 
 marriage any dereliction from the marriage vow be 
 proved or be known, the neighbors come in and put 
 an end to the woman. At 3 P.M., to-day, we returned 
 to the ship. I had dinner, and at four took a nap, but 
 the band aroused me, and I wound up the day with a 
 long yarn on deck with Mr. Coolidge. I have a letter 
 of introduction to Dent & Co.'s agents here, but have 
 not presented it; shall do so to-morrow. 
 
 October llth. I have been ashore to-day, and pre- 
 sented my letter of introduction as I proposed, re- 
 ceived kindly and invited to visit, &c., &c. I am gen- 
 erally adverse to letters of introduction, and prefer a 
 letter of credit, which is a pretty sure passport any- 
 
11 
 
 where. I have bought here only a piece of eighteen yards 
 of silk, and a piece of twenty yards of crape, intended 
 as material for dressing-gown and lining for your good 
 self; also, two or three dozen cups and saucers of 
 wafer porcelain, to send home. Kanagawa is the place 
 to buy at. I write this to-night, as a vessel leaves for 
 Hong-Kong on Saturday (day after to-morrow), and 
 will probably arrive there in time to place our letters 
 in the out-going mail of Oct. 25th. If my friends ex- 
 pect letters from me, you had better give them this 
 one to read. Give my love to father, the girls and 
 George. We leave here, via the inland soa, for Osaca 
 and Kanagawa, in about five days. I cannot say how 
 long I shall stay at the latter place, but probably a 
 fortnight or three weeks, including the expected Jed- 
 do trip, if we find the " Niagara's " party and Japanese 
 Commissioners going up. I trust 1 shall return to 
 Hong-Kong in this ship, or by sailing vessel, and be 
 there before the latter end of November. If nothing of 
 a business nature keeps me longer, I shall pass only a 
 week or two there, and then push on for the United 
 States and home. 
 
 Your affectionate Bon, 
 HENRY. 
 
[OVERLAND.] 
 
 {U. S. S. "HARTFORD" AT ANCHOR AMONG) 
 THE ISLANDS AT THE ENTRANCE OP THE V 
 INLAND SEA, ON THE COAST or JAPAN, j 
 
 Wednesday Evening, October 17, 1860. 
 My very dear Mother : 
 
 We left Nagasaki this morning at eight 
 o'clock, and have been running all day under sail and 
 steam, having made, say, one hundred miles. We are 
 bound to Kanagawa, but instead of going outside along 
 the northeast coast, we steer west for one hundred and 
 fifty miles, and then enter a narrow inland sea, and 
 proceed east toward our point. We go this way 
 because no ship of war has yet been through; also, 
 because there are one or two important cities to see, 
 and perhaps touch at, on the way; and also, because 
 'tis said to excel in the beauty of its scenery, any other 
 passage known. To-day, we have been among islands, 
 and along close into the mainland ; near enough to 
 swim ashore, all most elaborately cultivated ; you can 
 form no idea of it from my description. To-night, as 
 we were at tea, joking and enjoying supper, our fine 
 ship struck on a reef twice, and gave us symptoms of 
 immediate shipwreck. We were running at half speed, 
 but with the swell of the sea and impetus of our going, 
 shot us over the reef. Had it been a foot higher, our 
 ship would have been probably lost upon it. No one 
 knows the peculiar sensation of a long heavy ship, like 
 this, striking when you are underway and least ex- 
 
14 
 
 pect it. We anchored in ten minutes after, and here 
 we lay for the night. I suppose we shall be seven or 
 eight days going to Kanagawa, as we have to anchor 
 every night. We have two Japanese pilots on board, 
 but they cannot see at night among islands and shoals. 
 We have to-day passed the most remarkable island; 
 it is two hundred feet high, and only sixty feet across 
 at the base, with a hole through it, forming as perfect 
 an arch as ever was built by man. Tis volcanic, as 
 are many of the islands you see here. This was 
 evidently a jet of lava thrown up out of the sea, and 
 cooled as it stands. You have no idea how deep the 
 water is, close in with the shore of the islands; it is as 
 perfect blue as it is outside. I think I shall now retire 
 for the night. 
 
 October 18th, 8 P.M. This morning at six o'clock 
 I was on deck, and found the watch lifting the anchor 
 while the band was playing for them. It is customary in 
 a man-of-war, for the band to play a lively air when the 
 crew have such work to do; they keep step to it as they 
 use the capstan bars. We were soon on our way again, 
 with a fresh breeze; as the day advanced, it increased 
 to a heavy northwest gale; and after running all day 
 through straits, among beautifully cultivated islands, 
 etc., the wind howling, and sea white as a cotton field, 
 we anchored close to a large city at four this afternoon. 
 We then went ashore in two boats to see the extensive 
 city, not knowing whether the people would allow us 
 to land or not. As we approached in the boats, the 
 whole city front seemed alive with people; we landed 
 and were not molested, though I suppose no foreigner 
 ever set foot there before; a body of police took us in 
 charge, showed us the city, its temples, etc., etc., and 
 
15 
 
 watched us and the populace, which thronged the 
 streets, with equal attention. No noise, or talk, or 
 disturbance took place. We threw a few pieces of 
 silver among the crowd, but in one instance it was 
 picked up by the police, and returned to us. They 
 would not, at the shops, sell us anything if they could 
 help it. While writing here, one of our officers has 
 just brought me in a teapot as a present, which he 
 bought on shore at* sundown; we came off to the ship, 
 the wind blowing a gale even in this sheltered spot 
 under the highlands, and tide running very strongly. 
 Really our experiment proved a happy one, for we 
 did not know if the people would allow us to come on 
 shore. I shall now leave my letter to relate future 
 progress in after a while. We get our anchor up in the 
 morning so as to start by daylight, or a little after. 
 You are at once struck with the strict obedience of 
 the people to their superiors and officers. No one 
 seems to venture to a say a word, if a policeman 
 commands silence. Streets are neat and clean; so are 
 the houses. Our interpreter told the chief functionary 
 that we were American officers of a U. 8. man-of-war, 
 and merely wished to see their city; the officers had 
 not even side arms. To-day two of the officers told me 
 I must continue their guest in the ship, not only to 
 Kanagawa and Jeddo, but return to Hong-Kong. I, 
 of course, shall be happy to continue in the ship, but 
 it seems like using a friend to avail of such an offer. 
 I expect, however, I shall return to Hong-Kong in her; 
 she is a noble ship. We took (or rather the Com- 
 modore took) two more passengers at Nagasaki; the 
 Consul there and a Missionary; both for Kanagawa; 
 the latter speaks Japanese, and he acts as interpreter 
 
16 
 
 to the pilots. I expected the captain would want my 
 room for one of them; I offered it, but the old captain 
 said, " No, sir; I gave you the room, and you are to 
 continue to occupy it; these men can sleep where they 
 can best find room." My room is nearly as large as 
 your little front room up stairs, where I used to sleep 
 when a boy. A fine black walnut bedstead, a French 
 mode, a ditto bureau and writing desk, a mirror, 
 curtains and Venetians, library and room for two trunks, 
 chair, washstand, etc., etc. ; the floor has a nice Brussels 
 carpet upon it, and everything new, of course, because 
 'tis the ship's first cruise. I cannot understand how it 
 is that I was so fortunate as to have such a conveyance 
 for such a trip. Well, I will write no more until 
 to-morrow. Mr. Coolidge has just looked in, and said 
 good-night. 
 
 October 19, 9 P.M. I have been in Charles Downes' 
 room all the evening, he being sick. We again lifted 
 our anchor this morning, and started on our way. We 
 have run all day with a fine, fair wind, through a smooth 
 sea dotted with islands. To-night, at 7 P.M. we dropped 
 anchor between two islands, where we now are at 
 anchor, "laid remote from home." A most remark- 
 able sea is this indeed; one might rather call the 
 passage a long strait. The usual routine has been 
 gone through with eating, music, quarters, promenad- 
 ing, talking, reading, etc., etc. I cannot realize I am 
 in this quarter of the globe, except when I am on 
 shore. I will defer writing more until to-morrow. 
 
 October 20th, Sunday. Were I at home to-day, and at 
 this hour, I should probably be with you at church; 
 but as I am here on board a man-of-war, I will do the 
 next best thing, which is to write you a few lines. We 
 
17 
 
 are sailing and steaming along while I write, about 
 seven miles an hour; 'tis a cold, raw, drizzly Sunday 
 morning, but we on board have had a good hot 
 breakfast, and are as comfortable as mice with cheese. 
 Last evening at eight, a boat came off to us from a 
 city, while we were at anchor, having four men who 
 said they had been sent to knoj^r if the Prince of the 
 place could send any supplies of firewood or water to 
 us, or if we required anything. We told him no; that 
 we were bound from Nagasaki to Jeddo, etc., etc. 
 These fellows on coming upon the deck, all got upon 
 their knees, and bumped their foreheads upon the 
 deck as a salutation. We showed them all about the 
 ship, and I took them into my room; they seemed 
 amazed at everything they saw. They went into the 
 engine room below, and seemed surprised to see such 
 strange sights as this ship afforded. Just as they were 
 going away, they again asked if nothing could be sent 
 to us. One of us told him in fun, to send us a fish in 
 the morning for each man; he said yes, he could, but 
 he changed his mind, when we told him we had 336 
 people on board. I shall continue my letter now 
 directed to father. 
 
 Your affectionate Son, 
 
 HENRY. 
 
I OVERLAND. ] 
 
 (U. 8. S. S. "HARTFOBD," Sunday, Oct. 21, 1860. ) 
 
 AT ANCHOR IN THE INLAND SEA OF JAPAN, OFF > 
 
 ( THE CITY OF TOGO (OR HIOGO.) j 
 
 My very dear Father: 
 
 I continue my letter from my mother's. 
 The last few days I have been writing to her, until my 
 sheet is full; and I therefore renew in this, the narra- 
 tive of my criuse. It is Sunday evening; we have been 
 running all day, but anchored at dark off a city called 
 Yogo, one of the ports named in our treaty to be opened 
 to us in 1862. I have not seen the place yet, as I was tak- 
 ing a Sunday nap at dark; but directly went on deck, and 
 could only discern through the foggy mist about us, a 
 fleet of junks. I expect to-morrow we shall go ashore 
 for an hour or two; if so, I will on my return, jot down 
 what we saw. I cannot realize that we are here : in a 
 fine, armed ship, with intelligent and able men to care 
 for her by night and day; a table which supplies every- 
 thing for our fare which this quarter of the world will 
 supply. All that I have to do is to make myself com- 
 fortable and agreeable. No such opportunity will soon 
 again fall to the lot of any man to visit these seas and 
 this remarkable country. I have made a mistake in 
 dating my letter to mother all along; it should be one 
 day later, as I find to-day is the 21st instead of the 
 20th, as I have named in hers. 
 
 Tuesday, October 23d. Yesterday morning at day- 
 light, our ship was surrounded by Japanese boats filled 
 
20 
 
 with men and women; many of the former came on 
 board; you can have no idea of the curiosity displayed 
 by them. The evening before, our commodore sent his 
 card by some Japanese to be forwarded to the city 
 of Osaca, twenty-five miles farther on; at ten o'clock 
 yesterday we landed. The barge containing the com- 
 modore led the way, carrying the ensign in the stern, 
 and the blue flag forward; next came the captain's 
 boat in which I had a seat, and the third boat contained 
 the other officers from the midshipmen's mess. We 
 were received by the police as usual. Our officers had 
 side arms; the police had single swords. We visited 
 temples, stores, etc., and after being ashore two hours, 
 went aboard at noon; got our anchor, and left for Osaca. 
 twenty-five miles. Here we anchored at the mouth of 
 the river, and received during the rest of the day and 
 night, visits from the Japanese. I had supposed thab 
 to-day the boats would be manned, and we should go 
 up to this famous city, distant seven miles; but while 
 I was dressing this morning, I heard the orderly walk 
 in and speak to the captain through his door "the 
 commodore desires steam as soon as possible, and the 
 ship got underway.' 7 I expect the old gentleman 
 was angry with the Japanese for having taken so little 
 notice of his coming; at any rate, while I write it is 
 noon, and we are just emerging from the inland sea 
 and the anchorage off Osaca, out upon the open sea 
 on the coast of Niphon , bound up to Kanagawa, the sea- 
 port of Jeddo, distant three hundred miles; we are 
 steamiag from eight to nine knots. I trust we shall 
 return to Osaca, as it is important that these Japanese 
 may not be led to think that by our going away we were 
 afraid to land. Osaca is a city of seven to eight hun- 
 
21 
 
 dred thousand people or more; it is a third one in the 
 empire, contains many extensive palaces and temples, 
 and should be visited by us no doubt. For years it was 
 the residence of the missionaries from Portugal 
 Jesuits until their destruction by the Japanese decrees 
 against Christianity, in the seventeenth century. Bud- 
 hism is the religion of the Japanese generally. We saw 
 at Togo or Hiogo. some of the largest men I ever saw. 
 October 24th, 7 P.M. Sixty miles distant from Kana- 
 gawa. We are steaming up the bay which leads to 
 Kanagawa. Yesterday afternoon we got out into open 
 sea, upon the coast, a blowy, drizzly day; at night the 
 wind increased, and we realized by the lurching of the 
 ship and the piping of the wind, the truth of the stories 
 which are told of the weather here. By 10 P.M., the 
 ship was going thirteen knots, and the wind blowing 
 a gale. At 11 P.M., the Japanese pilot desired the ship 
 kept out farther from the coast, as he said reefs made 
 out a long way; of course we steered as he directed. 
 We got roughly handled, but to-day we got into this 
 bay again, and have been running into smoother water. 
 At eleven this forenoon, we made the mountain of 
 Fusi-Yaina, 13,000 feet high; its summit covered with 
 drifted snow a beautiful sight as its top peered out 
 above all the cloud, snow-clad, against the clear, blue 
 sky. This afternoon we passed a volcanic island on 
 our starboard hand, which was smoking freely. We 
 have just passed this afternoon the city of Sirnoacla, 
 where in 1858, a Eussian frigate was lost with all 
 hands, in an earthquake in the harbor. This city lies 
 near the foot of the mountain I referred to. You can- 
 not conceive the relief it is to be on an even keel again, 
 after being pitched and rolled about in a blow; another 
 
22 
 
 thing about it is, that these seas are none too well sur- 
 veyed; and on a volcanic coast like this, one might find 
 land in open sea. Well I will leave this now, until we 
 reach Kanagawa. 
 
 Sunday, 28th Oct., at Kanagawa, U. S. Consulate. 
 
 Here I am living with E. M. Dorr, consul here, at 
 his residence in Kanagawa. We arrived on the 25th. 
 Dorr came on board that evening, officially, to call on 
 the commodore, and urged me to go to his house that 
 evening, but I did not until next day. On the 26th I 
 landed here with the commodore, captain, the flag-lieu- 
 tenant and Mr. Coolidge; called on Dorr and three mis- 
 sionary families, and took up my room here. Dorr has 
 the best house in Japan. You cannot imagine how 
 oriental everything about it appears. 
 
 I intended to have gone on board the " Hartford' 1 
 to-day, to attend service, but owing to a rain storm, I 
 abandoned it, knowing that no service would be held. 
 Kanagawa is in the bay of Jeddo, occupied only by 
 the Japanese, say 80,000, and the consuls of the 
 three treaty powers. Trade is carried on at Yokahama, 
 four miles below ; no merchant can live at Kanagawa. 
 Dorr lives in an old temple converted into a fine house. 
 Six missionary families also live close to the consuls. 
 The country is perfection; soil rich and most elabo- 
 rately cultivated. I have been the past two days over 
 to Yokohama every morning about ten, and return at 
 3 P.M. , to make purchases. The display of goods there 
 is really worth seeing. I met many friends over there 
 who offered me rooms and chow-chow, if I would stay 
 with them. I met yesterday the Dutch and English 
 consuls and French minister at the house of the Dutch 
 consul. 
 
23 
 
 V 
 
 Thursday, 1st Nov., 12 M. Here we are at anchor 
 six miles distant from the city of Jeddo, that immense 
 city, which so few Europeans have ever to this day 
 beheld. We can approach no nearer with our ship, 
 owing to want of water. On our port side lies the 
 Prussian frigate, "Arcona," and on the starboard the 
 Prussian frigate, "Thetis"; the former the flag-ship 
 of the minister who is trying to negotiate a treaty with 
 the Japanese. But I must go back a little. Last 
 Tuesday evening, at Kanagawa,. the Dutch consul and 
 two of our lieutenants dined at Dorr's. Wednesday, 
 the commodore had a reception at Dorr's at noon, and 
 sixty people, principally Americans, came. We had a 
 feast, dancing, &c., until six P.M., when the visitors 
 dispersed. We then had a quiet dinner party among 
 ourselves, consisting of Dorr, the commodore, his flag- 
 lieutenant and my self; also, the doctor or surgeon. At 
 10 P.M., we left the commodore to go to bed, and took 
 the band to go serenading. Imagine us going through 
 streets with sixteen lantern-bearers before us, each 
 lantern being a transparency on a pole, striped alter- 
 nate red and blue, with the stars on one side and the 
 eagle on the other, representing the American flag; 
 then ourselves, then the band playing and then about 
 5,000 Japanese, principally women, all perfectly de- 
 lighted and blocking up the road as far as we could 
 see back. With this escort we went to the English 
 consul, then to the French minister, then to the 
 missionaries, especially to one place to serenade a 
 young lady, a daughter of a missionary. We got 
 through at midnight. At seven the next morning, I 
 took a boat for the ship, and at nine, we were off for 
 the city of Jeddo. In three hours we reached the 
 
24 
 
 city front, where we now lay, four miles distant. I 
 did not go on shore that day, being too far to pull 
 up and back; but yesterday I went. Of course, to de- 
 scribe the city, I cannot, It is, I judge, some fifteen 
 or twenty miles long by six miles deep, and contains 
 anywhere from five to ten millions of people; nearer 
 ten than five, I should say. We went to a hill in the 
 city, from which we took a survey over its whole ex- 
 tent. The palace of the Tycoon emperor is in the 
 centre of the city, surrounded by two walls, and cov- 
 ering about as much area as Boston Common, say 
 forty acres; the whole is surrounded by a broad 
 moat. The city residences of the Damioes, or heredi- 
 tary princes, are all over the city, and occupy much 
 ground. Its temples are very numerous, and placed 
 on all the hills and most beautiful spots. Some parts 
 of the city are magnificent, fine, wide roads to ride 
 over and ample room, while in other sections, narrow 
 streets and a denseness of people render walking or 
 riding alike disagreeable. The people seem well dis- 
 posed, but still the soldiers and followers of the Da- 
 mioes often are to be met inflamed with sacke, (or wine 
 made from rice), and these are most hostile towards all 
 foreigners. We leave for Kanagawa to-morrow morn- 
 ing, to-day being Sunday, the 4th and we leaving to- 
 morrow makes five days which we have been at an- 
 chor here. We are to touch at Kanagawa for a day, 
 and then proceed to Hong-Kong. Commodore Strib- 
 ling, his flag lieutenant and Mr. Coolidge left the ship 
 when we were at Kanagawa, and rode up to Jeddo by 
 land and took up quarters at Mr. Harris', the minis- 
 ter. Dorr offered me a horse to make one of this 
 party, which had I accepted, I suppose I should have 
 
25 
 
 stayed at Harris'; but 1 preferred to come up by ship* 
 only twelve miles. All together, this cruise so far has 
 been so novel, so pleasant, so full of interest and ac- 
 complished in so short a time, as to render it quite an 
 event in my experience, and one which I would not 
 have missed for a great deal of money. Let me advise 
 you to purchase "Hildreth's Japan," an authentic and 
 quite a reliable book, full of interest and fact. I have 
 written this letter to mother and yourself most care- 
 lessly, at all hours, in all places, and under all circum- 
 stances of smooth and rough weather, badly punctu- 
 ated and unfit to be read except by those at home, who 
 make allowance for my mistakes under such circum- 
 stances. I shall leave it now to attend Divine Service 
 on deck. Oh ! I find 'tis raining; so we are at home, 
 no service. The city of Jeddo, seven years ago, was 
 one-fourth destroyed, with one-fourth its entire popu- 
 lation/ by an earthquake. They visit this place regu- 
 larly every seven years. I presume nowhere in the 
 world are they more severe. 
 
 Tuesday, the 6th, 7 P.M., at sea. We left Jeddo 
 yesterday, at 9 A.M., and anchored at Kanagawa in 
 three hours after. I passad last night on shore at 
 Dorr's, dined there, where I met at dinner the commo- 
 dore of the Prussian squadron, our consul from Haka- 
 dadi and the interpreter at the legation of the U. 8. at 
 Jeddo. After dinner, say at midnight, I retired, and 
 arose this morning at seven, took a boat at once and 
 reached our ship at eight our hour for sailing being 
 nine. We left this morning about eleven o'clock, and 
 are now steaming and sailing for Hong-Kong. We have 
 just got out of the bay, I believe, into open sea. Passed 
 a volcanic island to-day, which was smoking at its 
 
26 
 
 crater. Mr. Coolidge is still on board. Yesterday, as 
 we were coming from Jeddo to Kanagawa, we met the 
 U. S. dispatch boat, "Saganaw," with the mails from 
 Hong-Kong for this ship. She reports the "Niagara" 
 at Hong-Kong. We have just missed her. We may 
 meet her to-morrow, as she is now eight days out from 
 there, bound up here. I received no letters, as I or- 
 dered them kept at Hong-Kong. The Dutch bark, 
 which Edward Gassett took passage in for Kauagawa, 
 was wrecked seven days out from Hong-Kong, and- 
 poor Gassetfc was nine days in a boat on four spoons- 
 full of water a day. I wrote you some time ago that 
 he asked me to go with him, and that I would have 
 gone had'I been at liberty, but, having a little business, 
 I could not get off in time, so I took steamer to Shang- 
 hai, instead of beating up in his bark. 
 
 7th Nov., 8 P.M. I was wrong in writing yesterday 
 that we had run out of the bay and were in open sea, 
 We took a north-west gale yesterday at 4 P.M., and 
 tumbled about all night, rolling and plunging fright- 
 fully among islands and reefs, not correctly laid down 
 on charts. 'Twas the worst night I have ever seen at 
 sea, I think ; even our good commodore was on deck 
 a great deal during the night. Fortunately it was 
 moonlight. It has not moderated much yet, having 
 been blowing now for twenty-four hours, but the ship 
 is easier. I got no sleep last night, but took three hours 
 in cat naps to-day. Even now while I write, the ship 
 is rolling, a high, turbulent sea running, three double- 
 reefed topsails and a foresail, is about the bulk of our 
 canvas. Weather cold and clear. I shall leave you 
 now to try and get a nap. 
 
27 
 
 Sunday evening, llth November. I left writing 
 four days ago, just after a gale of wind. I resume BOW 
 just after another. For the last two days we have had 
 bad weather. Last night we were again among islands 
 to the north of the Lew Chew, or Loo Choo group; wind 
 howling and a tremenduous sea, besides not having had 
 an observation, we could not tell exactly our position. 
 We rolled last night so that I could not sleep, but had 
 enough to do to keep in my bed and not fall out. To- 
 day has been clear, and we have been running from 
 nine to thirteen knots an hour, going like a racehorse; 
 rolling sometimes the lee and then the weather guns 
 under water. We passed four miles from an island 
 2000 feet high, to-day an extinct volcano a regular 
 crater at its top . You would laugh at the idea of any 
 one writing, if you could see how the ship rolls now. 
 We have run from Kanagawa eight hundred miles, and 
 have nine hundred more to go before reaching Hong- 
 Kong. We want to get in by the 15th, on which day 
 the mail leaves, but I fear we shall hardly do it, as it re- 
 quires us to make ten miles an hour night and day from 
 now until Thursday morning, (four days). 
 
 My last letter to you was written at Nagasaki, and 
 sent from there about the 15th of October to Hong-Kong, 
 and should have gone to you per overland mail on 
 25th last month. I trust it went all right. That 
 letter, with this long one, will give you an account of 
 my whereabouts since leaving Shanghai . We have 
 just found out on board that the commodore intends 
 taking this ship to Siam and then to Manila, soon after 
 arriving at Hong-Kong, and I am requested to continue 
 my trip to those places. But the fact is, I want to see 
 home; and as I think the " Niagara" will take Mr. 
 
28 
 
 Ward as far as Aden, I shall try to go in her if I get 
 the opportunity. However, I can tell better after our 
 arriving in Hong-Kong. Tis certainly a rare opportunity 
 of seeing these two places, and I should be happy to 
 continue my cruise longer in the ship. I do not know 
 when Mr. Coolidge intends going home. We take a 
 constitutional walk together daily. He knows Boston 
 people well. He asked me to-day what I intended doing 
 on arriving home. I told him, " go into some business 
 connected with this quarter of the world, so as to be 
 employed and making money." 
 
 You should have seen this ship at noon to-day. Her 
 great length and fine proportions under short sail, div- 
 ing bows under, then a roll, then another dive, as if 
 she could not go fast enough; sea fairly boiling, sun 
 out bright after the storm; water tumbling in 
 occasionally over our rails. I think I never saw finer 
 sailing, more majestic, rather, though I have seen 
 quieter. Take your map and you can see our posi- 
 tion, running from the Pacific into the China Sea, 
 through a group of islands between the Loo Choo 
 Islands on the south of us and coast of Japan or 
 Van Diemen's straits to the north of us. Then 
 turn to Jeddo Bay, Japan, and you can see our 
 track. I have some beautiful things from Japan. 
 Among them is a crystal eighteen inches in circum- 
 ference, without a flaw, clear as the air or the purest 
 spring water. It was taken from a cave in Japan, made 
 into a perfect sphere in form, by artificial means, and 
 is pronounced by Mr. Coolidge and by our officers, as 
 well as by foreigners in Japan, something never seen 
 before, not even in the best cabinets in Europe. 
 
29 ; 
 
 November 13th, 7 P.M. I resume my letter, though 
 the ship is running under sail alone, very fast, and 
 yielding to the sea by rolling, though not so heavily as 
 when I left this letter. 
 
 Last evening Mr. Coolidge and myself took tea with 
 the midshipmen, and passed a pleasant evening. I 
 know of nothing more refreshing than, when tired of 
 all one sees about them, especially in a ship at sea, to 
 retire to the privacy oT his own apartment and write a 
 letter home. The longer I meditate upon going home, 
 the stronger becomes my resolution to do so, and I 
 think now the inducement which would keep me in 
 China any longer, would be a rare one indeed. I feel 
 alone in the world, though surrounded with friends, 
 and I expect I shall never quite cure that until I have 
 a wife. I shall, at once on arriving at Hong-Kong, make 
 preparation to leave it for home. We ought to be in 
 there now, say day after to-morrow evening, if the 
 present rate of speed is kept up. I cannot tell you how 
 delightful this trip has been, from the day I left 
 Hong-Kong to the present, especially when I embarked 
 in this ship, then our passage through the inland sea, 
 the fine weather we there experienced, absence of fogs, 
 the novelty attaching to all we saw, my stay on shore 
 at Kanagawa at Dorr's, for a week, our trip to Jeddo, in 
 fine, the whole ; even the subsequent bad weather at 
 sea had its advantage, for it gave a greater degree of 
 delight to the days of fine sailing. 
 
 This ship rolls terribly. We have the wind now 
 right behind us, or " dead aft," and she always rolls 
 worse when sailing with the wind there. My visit at 
 Jeddo was, of itself, of no slight privilege. No 
 merchants - are allowed to go. The residents of 
 
30 
 
 Kanagawa and Yokohama (foreigners), though but 
 twelve miles distant from the Imperial City, cannot 
 visit it. But I, being in a government ship, could 
 .wear side arms and the button, and consequently, with 
 the officers, enjoyed what I could not have seen had I 
 gone to Kanawaga in a sailing ship. No merchant 
 ship of any nation can go to Jeddo, or above Kanagawa 
 or Yokohama. I told Mr. Coolidge to-day I would 
 like to make the same trip over again at once. 
 
 As 1 have once or twice already remarked in this 
 letter, we are hoping to reach Hong-Kong before the 
 mail steamer leaves on the 15th, at 2 P.M., we must run 
 ten miles an hour from now up to that time, to do it. 
 I think we shall accomplish it, though our officers 
 think not. I am writing this letter to go by it, so if 
 we get in only half an hour before the mail goes, this 
 may go by it. I will leave this space now to add some- 
 thing by and by, either just as we reach Hong-Kong or 
 before. We are now off the north end of Formosa, 
 bound down the sea. 
 
 15th November, 9 A.M. We have just had prayers 
 on deck, and I have returned to my room to add a few 
 lines to my letter. We are now fifty miles distant only 
 from an anchorage, and unless we run that distance 
 before two o'clock to-day, we shall miss the mail. I 
 think we shall accomplish it. I should regret losing 
 by an hour to send letters this mail. I will close this 
 now, and trust to its going forward by this day's 
 steamer. Give my kind regards to friends about you. 
 I trust that I shall have the pleasure of seeing you in 
 a few months, at farthest. Until then believe me your 
 affectionate and obedient son and servant, 
 
 H. P. BLANCH AKD. 
 
[OVERLAND FROM HONG-KONG. ] 
 
 Having an invitation from his Excellency, John E. 
 Ward to join him upon his return from China, until 
 he reached his family in Europe, I accepted his appoint- 
 ment, so kindly made to me, of Secretary to the Lega- 
 tion. On Saturday morning, December 15th, 1860, I 
 left my residence at Hong-Kong at a quarter before 8 
 A.M. and went on board the U. S. S. S. "Hartford" to 
 breakfast with and take farewell of her officers; the 
 captain and commodore with whom I had so recently 
 passed two months, upon a most delightful cruise to 
 Japan. At 9.30 P.M., Mr. Ward, came to pay his 
 parting call to the commodore; and at 10 A.M., I left 
 with Mr. Ward in the barge for the U. S. S. F. 
 "Niagara," which ship lay just ahead. As we got 
 clear of the "Hartford," she fired a salute of twenty- 
 one guns; her yards were manned, as were also those 
 of the "Niagara.' 7 In five minutes we were alongside 
 and on board the " N," which ship commenced her 
 salute also of twenty-one guns. 'Twas soon over; the 
 order was immediately given "up anchor," and by 
 10.15A.M., this huge ship was steaming out of harbor 
 toward the Luy-e-Moon passage. The spacious cabin 
 occupied by Mr. Ward and myself, has eight large 
 staterooms with every fitting for elegance and comfort. 
 In the rear are two large bathing rooms, etc., and the 
 whole is flush with the upper or main deck. By noon 
 we were fairly at sea, experiencing an ugly sea with an 
 unpleasant roll of the ship. At 3 P.M. we dined with the 
 captain in his spacious saloon below our own; Colonel 
 Bipley being at table, he having come out in the ship for 
 
32 
 
 the government. Mr. Bnchannan, captain's clerk, was 
 also at the table. The band played during dinner; 
 the captain entertained us handsomely, while the ship 
 was, by this time, running before a strong northeast 
 monsoon, twelve miles per hour under sail. We, 
 this day, triced up our propeller, it being useless in a 
 strong breeze. Tea was served at seven, but neither 
 Mr. Ward or myself cared to attend, having dined 
 heartily; at 10 P.M. retired. Sunday, the 16th, the 
 wind continued, and at twelve to-day, we have run 274 
 miles. Divine -service was held to-day by Mr. Stuart, 
 the chaplain, on the berth deck; all hands present; 
 read and slept the rest of the day; at 9 P.M., retired. 
 
 Monday, 17th. Wind light; ship rolls a good deal; 
 carrying lower studding-sails. At twelve noon had 
 run two hundred and thirty-one miles the last twenty- 
 four hours; altered our course from southeast to south- 
 west, having passed Macclisfield Bank at 4 P.M. 
 Dined at three with the captain; Mr. Brown, the first 
 Lieutenant present The ward-room mess consists of 
 fifteen excellent and efficient gentlemen. I have been 
 in to see them several times already. The band played 
 several pieces during dinner, and also after dinner, 
 upon the quarter deck. This P.M. the guns were run 
 out and exercised; afterwards a prayer by the chaplain; 
 retired at 10 P.M. 
 
 Tuesday. Wind light; run up to 12 A.M. to-day, 
 for twenty-four hours, one hundred and fifty -six miles; 
 had steam got up and propeller lowered afc 9 P.M. 
 
 Wednesday. With steam and canvas to-day, run 
 up to 12 M. for twenty-four hours, one hundred and 
 eighty miles; at 4 P.M. saw an immense water spout, 
 distant four miles; also passed an English ship with 
 
33 
 
 troops, steering south, and another ship steering 
 southeast; could not discern her colors. Weather 
 squally toward evening, but last part, wind light. 
 
 Thursday. Squally, with much rain; distance run 
 this day, one hundred and ninety miles. An English 
 ship in company with us all this day steering south- 
 southeast. The band as usual played at dinner; a 
 prayer by the chaplain at 9 A.M., and 5 P.M., after in- 
 spection. 
 
 Friday, 21st. No wind; under steam, have made to 
 twelve noon, two hundred and twenty miles. Had a 
 pleasant dinner, band playing, etc.; after dinner, a 
 pleasant conversation with Colonel Ripley. 
 
 Saturday, Dec. 22d. Steady steaming to-day has 
 run us up to an anchorage off the light-house, at the 
 entrance of Singapore Straits, at 10 P.M., having run 
 to twelve noon this day, two hundred and ten miles. 
 We passed this day, three English transports, bound 
 from China to Singapore, and home. 
 
 Sunday, Dec. 23d. To-day, at noon, anchored with- 
 in two miles pf Singapore, after a run of thirty-six 
 miles in from the lighthouse. At 1 P.M. I went on 
 shore with Mr. Ward, our purser. We landed opposite 
 the monument; went to the " Hotel 1' Esperance," 
 (formerly the " London Hotel [' Esperance";had lunch, 
 took a carriage, drove to the news-room, and then to the 
 American Consul's, distant two miles in the country. 
 Here we passed an hour, then drove two or three miles 
 further to a new residence unoccupied, but which com- 
 mands the best view in Singapore. At sundown we re- 
 turned to town, and went off to the ship. I was in Sing- 
 apore five years since, and passed six weeks ; 'twas 
 during the prevalence of the southwest monsoon, when 
 
34 
 
 frequent rains rendered the country beautiful; whether 
 or no 'twas the difference in the season now which 
 seems to render Singapore less attractive or not, I do 
 not know; but neither the town or the country seem 
 so inviting as when I last visited the place. The 
 building of a fort on the water front, also, of a new 
 church, and a few new residences has somewhat 
 improved the architectural appearance of the town. 
 
 Monday, Dec. 24th. The American Consul break- 
 fasted with us. We gave the town a salute of twenty- 
 one guns this morning at eight o'clock ; then at nine 
 fired nine guns for the Consul, and at 9.30 A.M., got 
 underway for Aden; at twelve, noon, we met the U. S. 
 Steamer " Dacotah," from the U. S. via the Cape and 
 Ceylon. She rounded too and sent us a mail bag for the 
 " Niagara;" after being alongside twenty minutes, she 
 steamed on to Singapore, while we in time, pursued 
 our course. The " Dacotah 7 ' is one of the B. I. 
 Squadron," and bound to China. Our band played 
 several airs; among them, " Sweet Home"; which, after 
 an absence like mine, of five years, one can understand, 
 would have some effect. 
 
 The weather for several days has been quite hot, 
 calling into use our white pants, jackets and coats. 
 Saw two vessels to-day, a bark and brig, standing 
 through the straits toward Singapore. We are this day 
 running under steam. To-morrow, being Christmas, 
 I have an invitation to dine with the wardroom officers. 
 
 December 25th, Christmas day. We are to-day, 
 using steam, running through the straits of Malacca, 
 and expect to pass Penang to-morrow, at 6 A.M. Our 
 boilers are bad, and our chief engineer says we may 
 not be able to run with them all the way to Aden. I 
 
35 
 
 fear our coal will give out; and if it is decided that we 
 cannot go into Galle with this ship, 'twould seem the 
 part of prudence to coal at Penang, as our supply of 
 black diamonds does not now exceed 500 tons. We use 
 thirty-three tons per day. Jardine's Steamer " Lance- 
 field" from China for Calcutta, passed us this morning. 
 Weather hot the Malacca shore in sight all the time. 
 At three this P.M., in company with his Excellency, 
 Mr. Ward, Captain McKean and Colonel Ripley, of 
 the army, I dined at the wardroom mess; twenty 
 composed the dinner party. We rose at 6 P.M., after 
 a delightful dinner, which was well served and enjoyed 
 the more, because accompanied by the band, which 
 played for us. To-night, at sundown, six or eight 
 square-rigged vessels are in sight. We passed the 
 light-ship at noon; distance run, two hundred and ten 
 miles to twelve noon, to-day. 
 
 December 26th, Wednesday. This morning at seven 
 o'clock, we made a brig and bark at anchor twenty-six 
 miles from Penang laden with coolies. In running 
 ahead of the latter, but too close to her, not making 
 allowance for tide which was setting us upon her, we 
 carried away her bowsprit and stove our larboard boats. 
 We then run around her, asked if she wished a tow into 
 Penang, to which he replied, "yes." We again fouled 
 her by running alongside; at length we took her in 
 tow, 3 P.M. We have towed the bark into port, or 
 rather just off the port of Penang; paid her owner who 
 was on board $1,000 damages, which settled the 
 difficulty amicably. The vessel had a Chinese captain 
 and an English mate; the owner was a Cingalese. We 
 are now steering for a point to clear Acheen Head, on 
 the north end of Sumatra; no wind, and only under 
 
36 
 
 steam. Had music this afternoon, and prayers as 
 usual. 
 
 Thursday, December 27th. Steaming seven and 
 a half knots per hour, no wind, weather hot, bound 
 over to Acheen Head; distance run to twelve noon, 
 to-day, one hundred and ninety miles. 
 
 Friday, 28th December. This A.M. at eight, passed 
 Acheen Head, steering west-by-north; a light breeze; 
 running under steam and sail. 
 
 Saturday, December 29th. We lost sight of the 
 Island of Nicobar to the northward of Acheen Head, 
 yesterday evening, and to-day are running seven knots 
 per hour under canvas alone, with propeller triced up. 
 This Island of Nicobar seems to be some twenty 
 miles square; luxuriant growth of woods, etc. upon it, 
 and undoubtedly a rich island in gums, woods, precious 
 stones, etc., etc. No signs of inhabitants, but 'tis 
 peopled with the race which inhabit also the An- 
 damans. We passed this island on our starboard 
 beam. 
 
 Sunday, 30th December. Light breeze, propeller 
 triced up, sailing seven knots; weather fine, with an 
 occasional squall; distance this twenty-four hours, one 
 hundred and thirty-five miles to twelve noon. Had 
 divine service to-day. 
 
 Monday, December 31st. A fair breeze, wind east- 
 northeast; distance ran to-day at noon, one hundred 
 and sixty -five miles, under canvas. 
 
 Tuesday, January 1, 1860. Under sail only; running 
 eight to nine knots toward Ceylon twelve noon, land 
 of Ceylon in sight, having run the last twenty-four 
 hours, two hundred and ten miles. We do not touch, 
 but proceed direct to Aden. 
 
37 
 
 Wednesday, 2d. Strong winds all day; at night a 
 fresh gale from north. Steaming and sailing, distance 
 run, two hundred miles; course, northwest. 
 
 Thursday, 3d. Propeller triced up at nine this A.M. 
 Wind light, Cape Cormorin in sight this A.M. Steam- 
 ing all this day; wind west at sundown. We ran two 
 hundred miles the last twenty-four hours to noon, 
 to-day. 
 
 Friday 4th. To twelve this noon, have run one 
 hundred and ninety miles, being now sixteen hundred 
 and eighty miles from Aden. Steaming seven knots, 
 no wind. This evening passed the Island of Minacor; 
 people thereon said to be friendly. This evening 
 triced up propeller, having a four-knot breeze. 
 
 Saturday, January 5th, 8 A.M. Lowered propeller 
 again, having no wind. Yesterday we ran about one 
 hundred and eighty miles. To-day, at twelve noon, 
 our run for the last twenty-four hours will have been 
 less, as we have laid still all night. 
 
 Sunday, January 6th. A charming day ; a long 
 prosy sermon at 10.30 A.M. Ship steaming eight 
 knots. "Oh! when will all our wanderings- end." 
 Distance run to twelve noon, to-day, two hundred 
 miles. 
 
 Monday 7th. Still steaming on through an almost 
 motionless and waveless sea. Now and then a few 
 sea birds are seen hovering over a school of fish, but 
 little else can we discern to break the monotony of the 
 voyage. A daily review of the marines and exercise of 
 guns and seamen, afford us some variety, while sleep- 
 ing, reading and conversing, with eating and drinking, 
 fills up the remainder of our time. 
 
38 
 
 Tuesday 8th. Distance run to-day, to noon, one 
 hundred and seventy-eight miles, under steam alone. 
 
 Wednesday, 9th. Still steaming; no wind since 
 leaving Ceylon; distance one hundred and seventy 
 miles. 
 
 Thursday. Steaming; distance to noon, one hundred 
 and seventy-eight miles. 
 
 Friday morning, ten o'clock. Made the island of 
 Socotra, and have run alongside of it all the latter 
 part of this day on the northern edge; distance one 
 hundred and sixty miles to noon. 
 
 Saturday 12th. This day ran one hundred and 
 eighty miles under steam and sail. 
 
 Sunday. Another long prosy sermon about nothing 
 at all. Distance ran to-day, one hundred and ninety- 
 eight miles up to twelve noon. 
 
 Monday, January 14th. An unfortunate fireman lost 
 his life to-day, by a block falling on his head. At 
 2 P.M. to-day, we anchored at Aden. 
 
 ADEN, Tuesday, 15th January, 1861. 
 
 We arrived yesterday. The mail from the U. S. reports 
 the election of Abraham Lincoln as President. This 
 morning we buried, at sunrise, the man who was killed 
 yesterday. I went on shore, had a dinner with Captain 
 Webb, who is an agent of Mr. Bertram, of Salem, here. 
 Staid at the hotel during the night ; passed the evening 
 at Captain Thomas', agent of P. & 0. Company. 
 
 Wednesday. In the evening rode with Captain Mc- 
 Kean of the "Niagara" out to the camp, five miles 
 from the point. Called on Colonel Playfair, the chief 
 official in the place ; stopped and heard the band for 
 quarter of an hour, and rode in again through the for- 
 
39 
 
 tifications. Passed the evening playing whist at 
 Captain Thomas', with several others. Staid all night 
 at the hotel. 
 
 Thursday 17 . A party of ladies visited the c c Niagara" 
 where we had dancing on deck. Friday another party 
 of ladies came off at Mr. Ward's invitation, he having 
 agreed to meet them on shore, but being ill, I received 
 them in his stead at the landing. All seemed delighted 
 with the noble ship, and with their reception. This 
 evening, in company with a few officers, I went on 
 shore, and serenaded with our band one or two ladies 
 at Captain Thomas'. 
 
 Saturday 19. Last night the steamer * 'Norna" came in 
 from Mauritius, and this morning, at eight, the ' ' Orissa'' 
 from Bombay. I took a boat and went on shore to break- 
 fast with Captain Webb, and find we leave per "Orissa" 
 for Suez, to-night, at 8 P.M. At 2 P.M., I returned to our 
 ship, and at 5 P.M. Mr. Ward and myself left our beau- 
 tiful vessel, her yards manned, band playing, and a 
 salute of twenty-one guns. After so much comfort as we 
 had taken oil board that wonderful ship, how could we 
 have left her without feelings of the deepest regret. 
 At sundown, we were on board the P. & O. Company's 
 steamship " Orissa," mixed up with men, women and 
 children, officers of the Queen's army, officers of the 
 E. I. Company's army, sick and well, Arabs, Hindoos, 
 Jews and Somaulis, surrounded with boxes of mer- 
 chandise, baggage, etc., etc. At 10 P.M. up came the 
 anchor, and we steamed out of port and just by our 
 " Niagara. 7 ' 
 
 I have enjoyed my stay at Aden very much indeed. 
 Captain Webb being there, and living with him on 
 shore, enhanced the pleasure. With him I rode daily, 
 
40 
 
 visited ladies, or drove his horse and buggy. The 
 most wonderful thing for visitors at Aden to behold, 
 are the tanks one of which holds five millions of 
 gallons constructed by the Arabs centuries ago. 
 
 Sunday January 20th. While writing, we have 
 entered the Red Sea and passed the island of Perim, 
 now held by the English. With a fair wind, we are 
 running off our twelve miles per hour. 
 
 Aden has a garrison now of fifteen hundred European 
 and Seapoy troops. Coffee trade is carried on here. The 
 Arabs here are fierce and wild, and no foreigner can 
 land upon an adjacent shore without being shot. The 
 Ishmaelite character is fully perceptible . We are now 
 steaming up the Red Sea for Suez. Our party which 
 left the " Niagara," consists of Mr. Ward, Colonel 
 Ripley, Dr. Woodsworth and myself. 
 
 January 21st. Our fair wind is now dying gently 
 away, and our captain predicts head winds. Pas- 
 sengers are all well and jolly. 
 
 January 22d. The land of Abyssinia is in sight. I 
 omitted to say that on the twentieth we passed in sight 
 of Mocha, where three foreign vessels were at anchor. 
 To-day we have Jidda, the seaport of Mecca, on our 
 starboard side. 
 
 January 23rd. Wind strong ahead, blowing down 
 the sea; the shore of Egypt and Arabia on either side, 
 within eight miles. 
 
 January 24th. A furious gale last night, but our 
 steamer behaved well, and ran seven miles an hour 
 into the teeth of it. 
 
 January 25th. Mt. Horeb and Mt. Sinai in sight on 
 our right hand, being a part of a range of mountains 
 near to us, which are very high and covered with snow. 
 
41 
 
 No one can conceive of the desolation which surrounds 
 that shore, presenting only decaying and decomposing 
 mountains, with their peaks far above the clouds, sur- 
 rounded by wastes of sand. To be cast away on these 
 shores, is certain death at the hands of the Arabs. 
 These facts, together with the cold at this season, ren- 
 ders the " tout ensemble" far from a pleasant locality. 
 The navigation of the Red Sea at this part is narrowed 
 down to but three miles of channel; coral reefs run- 
 ning out on both sides. To-night, at 9 P.M., we passed 
 over the passage of the Israelites when pursued by the 
 Egyptians. At 10. BO P.M. we anchored off the town 
 of Suez. I won the lottery which it is customary to 
 get up upon these steamers on the passage on the minute 
 of arrival, say twenty-five rupees. 
 
 January 26th. This morning at half past nine, a 
 steam tug-boat came alongside our steamer, and took 
 all our passengers with their baggage to town. We 
 saw Moses' Well near the bank of the sea as we steamed 
 up. Suez is a mean place, and only Arabs, Jews and 
 camels are seen here. The town is five miles from our 
 anchorage. The railroad which connects Suez with 
 Alexandria, passing through Cairo, comes down upon 
 the wharf. Here we took the cars at once on reaching 
 shore, and at 11.15 A.M., we left Suez for Cairo and 
 Alexandria, over the vast desert where nought save an 
 unlimited waste of sand was visible. Occasionally we 
 passed a few Arab houses, or caves constructed under- 
 ground. We procured a few biscuits at two way- 
 stations, and after running six hours over this illimit- 
 able plain of sand, with no green thing in sight, we 
 suddenly came upon the border of the Nile, and Cairo 
 with its myriad mosques, minarets, cultivated fields, 
 
42 
 
 green trees and gardens, rose upon the sight. Such 
 a contrast I never experienced, nor can it be realized 
 save here. We had run ninety miles. We dined at 
 Cairo, and at six the same evening, resumed our rail 
 travel for Alexandria, running over a level country, 
 crossing the Nile twice, and beneath the influence of a 
 matronly moon. As we rode into Cairo, those mighty 
 monuments of antiquity, the three pyramids, rose upon 
 our sight. No one can behold these without reflecting 
 upon the ages which have passed away since their 
 founders flourished, and still there their tombs stand, 
 defying time and guarding the desert. We reached 
 Alexandria at 2 A.M. of the 27th, cold, chilled through 
 and weary with our long, dry, dusty ride over the 
 desert. At the depot, we were received by the acting 
 United States Consul, who had a carriage and a 
 dragoman in waiting, and with whom we went to the 
 Hotel 1'Europe. By four this morning we went to bed, 
 but sleeping in wet sheets gave both Mr. Ward and 
 myself a severe cold, from which I anticipate a pro- 
 tracted indisposition. After a poor rest of four hours, 
 I arose, and after riding about, visiting the Exchange, 
 seeing Pompey's Pillow and Cleopatra's Needle, we left 
 Alexandria this day per P. & O. steamer " Ellora," at 
 noon. 
 
 January 27th. We left Alexandria in company with 
 the steamer for Marseilles. January 28th. This 
 morning weather fine. Our number of passengers has 
 been pleasantly increased, a Mr. Crockett of Boston, 
 with a number of Americans who have been up the 
 Nile. January 29th. A few vivid flashes of light- 
 ning last evening, betokened a storm. This morning, 
 before daylight, it was upon us. The rolling of the 
 
43 
 
 ship became severe, and frequent seas fell upon us, 
 taking our life-boat away from the davits, darkening 
 our skylights and pouring down tons of water through 
 our upper-deck hatches. Deeming it imprudent at 
 10 A.M., to run the ship longer, the sea increasing and 
 now having become fearful, the captain wisely hove 
 her too. We laid all day with the worst sea running 
 which I have ever seen. At sundown it moderated, 
 and glad were we all to look over the crest of the 
 waves toward our haven, and see our steamer under- 
 way once more. 30th January, smooth sea. Jan- 
 uary 31st. At daylight this A.M., we anchored in 
 quarantine harbor, Valetta, Malta. After breakfast 
 we bid adieu to our passengers, two of whom I much 
 regretted leaving, the wife of a major in H. M. In- 
 dian army, Mrs. Aitken and a beautiful boy of four 
 years, and a Gapt. Douglass of the same army, son of 
 Gen. Sir Jas. Douglass, G. C. B. Here we took 
 rooms at Dunsford's Hotel. February 1st. This day 
 we drove out to the grotto of St. Paul, where he lived 
 for four months after his shipwreck. A church stands 
 upon this spot. The priest who opens to you the, de- 
 scent to this remarkable cave, tells you with the ut- 
 most gravity and sincerity that people have carried 
 away ship loads of this cave, but it never grows any 
 larger. Also that when Paul preached here he was 
 distinctly heard in Sicily. We next visited the old 
 Saracenic Catacombs which once led six miles into Va- 
 letta, but now are filled up. Next we saw the statue 
 of St. Paul upon the spot where he preached, now a 
 garden of the church. Next the spot where Paul was 
 shipwrecked. After this the old cathedral which was 
 built by one of the grand masters of the celebrated 
 
44 
 
 order of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. This 
 cathedral is full of old paintings, of beautiful mosaics, 
 and of tombs of bishops beneath the mosaic floor. 
 Upon our return to Valetta we visited the summer 
 palace of the governor, where, upon the trees in the 
 grounds, hung two or three ship loads of lemons and 
 oranges. Next we went to the "College of the Mediter- 
 ranean," where some seventy students from all parts of 
 Europe and Asia receive European education. The 
 accomplished tutor informed us that the expenditures 
 of this institution exceeded the receipts by 2,500 
 sterling per annum ; which amount he receives from 
 the charities of the nobility of England. We returned 
 to Valetta this evening, after a long and interesting 
 drive. I omitted to say that Mr. Ward, the consul, 
 Mr. Winthrop of Boston and myself called on the 
 governor, where we found at this palace a superb col- 
 lection of paintings, superb mosaic floors and many 
 suits of armor, one of which was worn by the Knight 
 of the order of St. John, who founded Valetta. Next 
 we were introduced into the library or news room. 
 This evening I procured a box at the opera, where Mr. 
 Ward, Mr. Crockett, myself, an English officer and 
 lady attended. The performance of the prima donna 
 was creditable in the opera of "The Barber of Seville/' 
 (Eossini). February 2nd. Visited the church of St. 
 John with its superb oil paintings, its four hundred 
 richly wrought mosaic tombstones, composing its 
 floors, the room beneath the church where repose in 
 marble sarcophagi the dust of the seven grand masters 
 of the knights who built the seven palaces and seven 
 churches, which are to-day the glory of Malta. 
 Doubtless this church is unsurpassed by any other in 
 the world. 
 
45 
 
 February 2nd. Went out to a church of Capuchin 
 friars or monks, where we were shown underneath 
 it, a double row of twenty -six monks, each standing in 
 a niche, dressed in a black gown, the only covering 
 for the skeleton. These grinning, ghastly spectacles 
 have stood in upright posture for from five to fifty 
 years, prevented only from falling by a bar of wood 
 passed around the arms. The main and wonderful 
 features of Malta are its immense forts and fortifica- 
 tions, which must be seen to be appreciated, as no des- 
 cription can afford a faint idea of their magnitude. 
 A garrison of 8,000 English troops hold this island, 
 which is a perfect gem in the circle of islands around 
 it. February 3d, at noon, we embarked on board the 
 Messagaries Imperiales steamer, "Porsillippo," bound to 
 Leghorn. We saw Gozo, where Calypso's grotto is, as 
 we passed out by the island. We are to touch at Mes- 
 sina, Naples, and Civitta Vecchia, before reaching Leg- 
 horn. Among our passengers is the family of the 
 Earl of Albermarle, consisting of himself, lady Alber- 
 marle and their two daughters, the Lady Alice and 
 Lady Louisa Keppel. The Earl is a peer of England, 
 but a most unassuming, plain, charming gentleman. 
 We have a smooth sea and prospect of being at Mes- 
 sina to-morrow. February 4th. Arrived at Messina 
 this morning at daylight. Nothing to see on shore. 
 City occupied by Sardinian troops, while the forts in 
 the harbor are held by the Neopolitan troops. The 
 American steam sloop "Richmond," flag-ofircer Bell, 
 lies here. I took breakfast with him this A.M. To-day 
 he has been on board our steamer to see Mr. Ward, 
 who has been ill below in his stater.oom. At 2 P.M. 
 to-day, we left Messina for Naples. To-night at 6 P.M. 
 
46 
 
 we passed Stromboli, rising from the sea, yet showing 
 upon its top its flaming embouchure. At 4 to-day we 
 passed through the straits of Scylla and Oharybdis. 
 
 February 5th, at 6 A.M., we steamed up the harbor 
 of Naples. The mountain of Vesuvius rose clear 
 against the blue heavens as we passed it, emitting a 
 sluggish cloud of smoke from its crater. On our port 
 side the adjacent country of Naples presented its pic- 
 turesque scenery of hillsides and slopes crowned with 
 residences. At 9 A.M. we dropped anchor, and at 
 10 A.M. Mr. Ward and myself went on shore. The 
 police station responded to our application for a pass, 
 "that the Minister of the United States needed none to 
 go wherever he liked." Could the narrow-minded pol- 
 iticians of our beloved country feel and know the real 
 worth of an American citizenship, they would not 
 have led us into this terrible juncture, where only 
 the providence of God can save us from totaJ annihi- 
 lation. We took a carriage, and after visiting the 
 strada Toledo, the most celebrated street in Europe, 
 the museum and the Consul, we drove through the tun- 
 nel and around the drive which is some two miles be- 
 yond, and returning by the sea, near the foreign resi- 
 dences. At 4 P.M. we sailed, and blessed with a smooth 
 sea, we passed a quiet night, and at daylight, February 
 6th, anchored before Civitta Vecchia. Here we de- 
 livered most of our passengers, including the Earl and 
 his family. I went on shore, but what with an unin- 
 teresting 'town occupied by French troops, and a rainy 
 day, I was glad to return to the steamer. At 4 P.M. 
 we left. 
 
 February 7th. At daylight this A.M., we arrived at 
 Leghorn from Civitta Vecchia. Here we were met by 
 
47 
 
 the United States Vice-Consul, who most kindly took 
 us on shore, and was of the utmost aid in passing 
 ourselves and our baggage from the steamer to the 
 cars for Florence. At 9.30 A.M. we left per rail for 
 Florence ; passing through Pisa, the leaning tower 
 in sight ; and after two hours ride through a highly 
 cultivated country, we reached Florence at half past 
 twelve. The most delightful railroad trip I have ever 
 taken; the scenery is very fine, combining natural and 
 artificial attractions. I parted here with my companion, 
 Mr. Ward; he joins his family, who are residing here, 
 while I take rooms in the Hotel de la Ville, but one 
 door removed from him. 
 
 23d February. At 4.30 this A. M. I left Florence in 
 the coupe No. 1 of the diligence for Bologna, en route 
 for Venice . I have passed more than a fortnight in 
 Florence, at the Hotel de la Ville, on the Arno; in 
 visiting galleries, palaces and friends, in attending the 
 Opera Bal Masqu, etc. etc., in drives to Fiesole, and 
 over upon the heights on the opposite shore of the 
 Arno. No city in Italy affords attractions for the 
 visitor, or for a resident, which can surpass those of 
 Florence. The city embraces every form of ancient 
 and modern art and architecture. The Pitti Palace, 
 the Uffize, the Corsini, the Boboli Gardens, Fiesole, 
 with its villas and views, the studios among which 
 Powers' appears in the, front rank for works of merit, 
 and Fullers for its Godeva. The cathedral, the 
 churches, in fact everything has a charm for the 
 stranger at Florence. Through Mr. Crockett, a mem- 
 ber of the Suffolk Bar of Boston, I met an Italian fam- 
 ily, and thus was favored with ingress into Italian 
 society, embracing writers, poets and musical talent, 
 
48 
 
 unsurpassed in Italy. Many of my evenings were passed 
 in this society. I also met a Mrs. Fields and daughter, 
 of St. Louis. Three days since, I parted with Mr. 
 Ward, who, with Mrs. Ward, have taken a private car- 
 riage or vetturino for Home, leaving four children 
 behind in care of their niece, Miss Newton, of New 
 York. Well, adieu to Florence. My coupe com- 
 panions in the diligence prove to be an English lady 
 and daughter, or rather Scotch I infer, though they 
 both drop the H so often, that I found 'twas useless to 
 follow Punclis example of picking it up and handing it 
 to them. The mother asking the daughter "which side 
 the Adriatic Naples stood upon T and the daughter's 
 reply that, " she did not know," gave me a faint idea 
 of the object of their peregrinations. I suppose it to 
 be information. We reached Bologna at 10 P.M. this 
 day, after a hard, but pleasant ride over the Appenines ; 
 and thence over a level road to Bologna. Stopped at 
 Hotel Brun or Suisse. 
 
 February 24th, Sunday. This day at noon, I left in 
 a private carriage or vetturino, after visiting the 
 " Academia della Bella Arti." for Ferrara; the two 
 English ladies as my companions. At 7 P.M., we 
 reached the "Hotel d' Europe," after riding all day 
 over a level country, through vineyards all the way. 
 The season is early for vegetation; the weather rainy, 
 and the mountains on all sides covered with snow. 
 Bologna is an interesting, city, presenting miles of 
 corridors as you enter it through its gates. Venice 
 being my destination, I did not remain here. 
 
 February 25th. This morning at seven, I again took 
 a seat in the coupe, for Padua, which place, we reached 
 at night, at five o'clock; my English friends still in 
 
49 
 
 company, their route being like my own, from Florence 
 to Venice and Paris. We, this day, had our luggage 
 searched as we were entering Austrian dominion- 
 though by right, Austria should relinquish her hold on 
 Venice, Padua, etc., especially since Italy now is 
 united under the rule of Victor Emmanuel. Perhaps, 
 however, Austria is waiting for the French Emperor to 
 withdraw his troops from the Eomagna. Six of one 
 and half dozen of the other, I suspect. Here I rested 
 for the dinner hour only; at 9 P.M. we left by rail for 
 Venice. Padua is one of the oldest and most interest- 
 ing cities of northern Italy. Its streets, squares, 
 cathedrals, etc., etc., are upon a grand scale, and 
 evince its having seen its days of renown, and merited 
 celebrity. We traveled over most interesting roads 
 from Ferrara to Padua, straight as far as the eye could 
 see, elevated and very solid. One could easily detect 
 that he was within the limit of a powerful sovereign 
 by the innumerable troops to be seen on the roads, 
 and at all the towns and stations " en passant." 
 
 At ten this P.M., we arrived at the depot in Venice, 
 after an hour's ride from Padua. I do like the con- 
 tinental arrangement at depots, where guards keep off 
 the crowd, and you are allowed to escape the in- 
 convenience and annoyance of the multitude. We ran 
 for seven miles before entering Venice, over a bridge 
 with the sea on both sides of us. At 11 P.M., we 
 entered a gondola, and started for the Hotel Malberg. 
 After being steered through various little canals by 
 the marvelous dexterity of the gondoliers in the use of 
 one oar, a performance, I believe, unequalled except 
 by the boatman of Venice, we reached the hotel sit- 
 situated upon the Grand Canal. 
 
50 
 
 February 26th. To-day I visited the Palazzo San 
 Marco, the gallery of paintings in the Ducal Palace, the 
 entire palace, the room once occupied by the Council 
 of Ten, the hall where the Inquisitors, three in 
 number, tortured state prisoners, the memorable 
 Bridge of Sighs ; and crossing this, the Infernal 
 Prison, which Byron has long since written of. No 
 wonder when you pass from the Doge's Palace to the 
 solid granite prison, with its grated windows, that 
 sighs escaped the victims who never more saw the 
 light of heaven. A cold chill ran through my frame as 
 I stood upon this memorable spot; and an intimation 
 from the inquisitorial looking gate-keeper who unlocked 
 the iron doors of the prison, and showed me one form 
 of torture, to descend to the dungeons by the light of 
 his greasy candles, was met by me with a positive 
 refusal. God in his infinite mercy forbid in the future 
 history of our globe the re-enaction of scenes such as 
 have been witnessed beneath this " prison, and the 
 palace." 
 
 February 26th. 1 omitted to note at Florence, two 
 important objects of interest which I there enjoyed. 
 One was the celebrated annual carnival, the other the 
 Palnce of Prince Demidoff. Of the former, I will only 
 say that the last day of the carnival was lovely, and the 
 Corso unusually attractive. Miles of superb equipages 
 followed successively. Bouquets were thrown from 
 carriage to carriage until sunset, but flour succeeded 
 after dark. 1 noticed among the most elegant equipages, 
 that of a nephew of the present Emperor of the French, 
 four bays and gold liveries, a royal turnout. Also 
 the two sons of Victor Emmanuel, with a modest but 
 elegant turnout of one pair silver liveries. A Mr. 
 
51 
 
 Livingstone of New York, six pair of bays. At night, 
 the masked ball was said to have been the best given 
 in Florence for m my years. I found the crowd im- 
 mense on the promenade, while the boxes or loges were 
 also full. Dancing was difficult, owing to numbers. 
 Music, very good. The effect was really unique and 
 exhilarating. Good order until daylight, when the last 
 person left. I had an invite to attend at two boxes, a 
 Mrs. Derby's, of Boston, and Mrs. Crockett; the former 
 through Mrs. Ward. 
 
 Next the Palace of Prince Demidoff. The palace, 
 though not the largest, yet I believe is said to be, by the 
 best judges, the gem of all European palaces. Its sit- 
 uation is just outside the walls of Florence, and sur- 
 rounded by grounds, hot-houses and parks of commen- 
 surate richness and extent. To obtain ingress to this 
 palace, requires, usually, a previous application of two 
 months, but through the influence of the Italian ladies 
 to whom I have referred, I was admitted. My good for- 
 tune in this respect, was most remarkable, for I am told 
 that there are hundreds of Russian, Italian and Sicilian 
 nobility resident in Florence, who have in vain applied 
 for admission. I can give no just, nor even a faint, 
 description of the treasures of this palace. Its floors 
 and ceilings are of Roman mosaics and Gobelin 
 tapestries. Its mantels of agate, porphyry, lapis-lazuli, 
 and malachite. Its ceilings are hung with superb 
 paintings by Titian, Paul Veronese, Rembrandt, Van 
 Dyke, Leonard da Vinci, and others. Its roofs, 
 especially of the music hall, are of frescoes and gold. 
 Its rooms, successively, are laden with gems, articles 
 of vertu, caskets, silver and gold services, sets of 
 jewels in glass cases, pier tables of Florentine and 
 
52 
 
 Eoman mosaic, malachite, ete., etc. Rooms fitted for 
 Turkish occupancy, also for Greeks. A billiard room 
 unsurpassed in the world, the cues studded with jewels. 
 One room filled with pipes of every size, age and 
 value. One filled with ancient armor, one with 
 paintings, in every form of mosaic, one large hall of 
 sculpture, one a gallery of paintings. Beside this, 
 every room having its gorgeous chandeliers and its 
 elaborate furniture, which no pen can describe. After 
 visiting the palace, I walked over the grounds, through 
 the hot- houses, and into the Greek and Catholic 
 chapels attached. Also into the Chinese hall, filled 
 with Chinese antiquities. We passed a day here, and 
 never do I expect to see the same amount of wealth 
 within four walls again. No crowned head of Europe 
 to-day, has anything approaching to it. To visit that 
 palace, would amply repay one for the expense of a 
 voyage from the United States to Europe, and 
 back. 
 
 I will now return to the day upon which I made this 
 detour in my narrative. After visiting the square of 
 San Marco, at Venice, watching the flight of pigeons 
 which always arrives there as the clock strikes two, to 
 be fed, I purchased eighteen or twenty views of the 
 city, and returned to the hotel. The church of San 
 Marco, with its enduring mosaics within and without, 
 of gold and brilliant colors, which defy time, its 
 Byzantine style, render it a most imposing and won- 
 derful relic. The scenes portrayed within its walls, 
 upon its roofs, domes and ceilings, in mosaic, are won- 
 derful for beauty and description. Every event of note 
 in our Saviour's life is there portrayed in figures as large 
 as life. 
 
53 
 
 27th February. This day I visited the academy of 
 fine arts, with its galleries of paintings. The palace of 
 the family of Givionelli, where one is shown the re- 
 markable painting of Marino Falieri bidding adieu to 
 his family. We passed to-day the palace of the two 
 Foscari, those of Taglioni (two in number), the once 
 celebrated danseuse, the house where Byron lived 
 when here. I visited the church where are the tombs 
 of Canova and of Titian, each wonderful productions in 
 sculpture. The same church has the tomb of the two 
 Foscari and of Rembrandt. 
 
 21st February. To-day I left Venice in company 
 with my recent traveling companions, the English 
 lady and daughter, en route for Paris, by rail. At 
 10 A.M., we took the cars, and at 5 P.M. reached 
 Milan. 
 
 March 1st. Strolled about for an hour or two in 
 shops, and to the celebrated cathedral, which, for its 
 peculiar architecture, surpasses any other in Europe. 
 In the afternoon, I drove to the Place d'Armes, and 
 over the celebrated drive where the Milanese are all 
 found in the public gardens near by, and \\here the 
 equipages of this beautiful city roll by, each laden 
 with its freight of beauty and of fashion. I have never 
 seen a road so attractive, because so wide, smooth and 
 with a double row of arching shade trees on either 
 hand. 
 
 March 2d. Having seen something of Milan, and 
 visited the galleries of paintings and the palace of the 
 King, Victor Emmanuel, I took my passage again per 
 rail, at 11 A.M., to stop at Turin. The ride in the cars 
 is exceedingly attractive and agreeable, as you run over 
 a level country, through many ancient villages and 
 
54 
 
 towns, the snow crowned Alps close to you on the 
 right, which separates Piedmont from Savoy. On the 
 left, as you approach Turin, the land is high, and 
 crowned with villas and summer residences of this, 
 hitherto, Piedmontese. but now Italian capital. We 
 crossed through the town of Magenta also, where the 
 recent history of the French interposition points to 
 the renowned field of Magenta. 
 
 At 5 P.M., on a cold raw afternoon, we reached 
 Turin, and having accidentally met in the cars two 
 officers, one commanding at Naples, and just return- 
 ing also from the siege of Gaeta, the other having a 
 military and civil commission, I took a carriage with 
 this latter for his residence and rny hotel. I found 
 the Hotel de TEurope, as is the case with nearly all the 
 best hotels in the middle and south of Europe, in a 
 palace. The room assigned to me was not to my liking, 
 because it was on the third floor; but I was told that 
 the Senate of Italy were then in session, and that most 
 of its members had rooms here, which had completely 
 filled up the house. The dining-room was only sur- 
 passed by that of the hotel where I now am the Hotel 
 du Louvre. Though it was Sunday, still instead of going 
 to church, I went to picture galleries, the royal palace 
 and the armory. This latter is the best in the world. 
 
 In this armory I was shown a lock of hair from the 
 first Napoleon, also the sword which he wore at the 
 sharply contested field of Marengo. 
 
 On Monday, the 4th of March, I left the hotel, in- 
 tending to start again for Paris, but as my trunks were 
 a little behind time, and as the regulations in the rail- 
 way trains are very severe, 1 was obliged to return to 
 the hotel and wait another day. 
 
55 
 
 On the 5th, however, at 6.30 P.M., we left, by rail, 
 for the foot of the Alps. At half past eight, we ex- 
 changed our comfortable car for a diligence and twelve 
 horses, and began our tedious journey over the Alps, 
 by the pass of Mont Cenis. At 11 P.M., we reached the 
 snow line, and again alighted to exchange our diligence 
 on wheels for one upon runners. By midnight, we 
 had attained such an altitude, as to encounter a furious 
 gale of wind and a temperature of intense cold. The 
 air was filled with dry snow blowing in drifts, so that 
 one could not look to windward. Our road was blocked 
 up with snow, and we continued in this plight until 
 daylight, when we reached the summit, though but for 
 the labors of sixty men who came to dig us out, we 
 would have been there a week. By 1 P.M. of the 6th, 
 we reached a house to dine at in a town on this side 
 the Alps, called Lansleborg. The same evening we 
 arrived at St. Jean de Maurienne, where we passed the 
 night, and took the cars for Paris next day, say March 
 7th at 6.20 A.M. The scenery is grand by this route 
 over the Alps, but I object to snowdrifts. 
 
 March 8th. Having passed all day yesterday, and 
 all ni^'ht last night in an express train, \ve reached 
 Paris this morning, at 6.30 o'clock. Smoking is allowed 
 in these cars, and I found it very unpleasant to be shut 
 up with smokers on a cold night. A carriage here con- 
 veyed me from the cliemin defer, via the Place de la 
 Bastille, through rue St. Antoine and rue Bivoli, to the 
 "Grand Hotel de 1' Europe." This hotel, like Paris it- 
 self, has no rival or equal in all this hemisphere. And 
 here I think 'tis useless to continue my narrative of a 
 story of three weeks. The Boulevards, the Tuilleries, 
 the Palais Royal, the Gallery of the Louvre, the 
 
56 
 
 Champs Elysees, Bois de Boulogne, Hotel des Inva- 
 lides, Hotel de Cluny, Hotel de la Ville, the thousand 
 spots of interest here one must visit to realize. My 
 friend and traveling companion, Mr. Ward, arrived 
 here on Sunday last from Eome, (this being the 20th 
 of March), and we have secured, through Mr. Russell 
 Sturgis, passage per Cunard steamer, "Persia," for 
 America, to sail on the 30th inst. I can discern in 
 the political horizon of France that the emperor and 
 the armee hold a despotic sway, however much H. I. M. 
 may make it palatable to the people in other respects. 
 No barriers can now be raised in Paris. The new 
 Boulevard runs from the Place Bastile to the Bois de 
 Boulogne, and also longitudinally through Paris. The 
 zouaves are unpopular with the people, and a wide dif- 
 ference exists between the ruler and the governed. By 
 a French paper yesterday, I noticed that 455 soldiers 
 had been pardoned, who were under orders for pun- 
 ishment for offences, besides some 150 more were also 
 to be released ; this by order of the emperor, at the 
 suggestion of the Ministre d' Etat. When were several 
 hundred citizens pardoned of their offences ? And does 
 not this take the form of catering to the wishes of this 
 powerful body the army of France? 
 
 Sunday, 23d March. After a stay of over two weeks 
 here in Paris, I take my leave, in company with Mr. 
 Ward and Lieut. Col. Eipley, U. S. A., by rail for Bou- 
 logne, Folkstone and London. We reached Boulogne 
 at 5 P.M., where after passing two hours for the steamer 
 to secure a suitable tide, we crossed the Channel and 
 took rail at Folkstone ; reaching London at 11 P.M. 
 The scenery through France, between Paris and Bou- 
 logne, does not compare with that between London 
 
57 
 
 and Liverpool, presenting neither high cultivation nor 
 a thickly-settled country. March 29th. To-day at 
 10 A.M., we three left London by rail for Liverpool. 
 A beautiful ride of seven hours it is too ; the scenery 
 more than counteracts for hours in the cars. Went 
 to the Tower, Westminster Abbey, through Thames 
 Tunnel, to the new Houses of Parliament, drove 
 through Hyde Park and visited the surroundings of 
 Buckingham Palace, St. James Park, etc., etc. We 
 lived at Fenton's Hotel, in St. James' Street, had our 
 meals in our dining-room attached to our parlor and 
 chambers ; the best living in a hotel I have ever ex- 
 perienced. The sight of St. Paul's Cathedral did not 
 impress me as did other cathedrals upon the continent, 
 though larger. Beneath this church one is shown the 
 tombs of Wellington and Nelson among others. But 
 the tombs of the illustrious dead at Westminster, ren- 
 der that church or abbey a spot of wonderful interest. 
 Kings, queens, those who were great as statesmen, 
 soldiers, poets, naval and remarkable men in England's 
 history, lie close together throughout the extent of this 
 vast pile. At 5 P.M. we reached Liverpool, and after 
 staying all night at the Adelphi Hotel, we left the pier 
 at 10 A.M., 30th March, for the Cunard steamer "Per-* 
 sia," lying in the river. In a quarter of an hour we 
 were on board. Mr. Ward and myself occupying a 
 state-room together and Col. Ripley next to us. At 
 11 A.M. we sailed with 110 passengers for New York, 
 via, Cork or Queenstown. At 9 A. M., Sunday, Blst. 
 March, we arrived at Queenstown and sailed same 
 evening at four. April 9th, 1861, New York Hotel, 
 New York City. We arrived here this morning, in 
 eight days and sixteen hours from Cork, and nine days 
 
58 
 
 twenty hours from Liverpool ; one of the best if not 
 the best passage ever made across the Atlantic. We 
 had easterly winds daily, often strong, making fourteen 
 to sixteen knots an hour. Saw no ice, though we ex- 
 perienced snow storms and very cold, foggy, rough 
 weather on the banks. Saw no ship near enough to 
 speak, except the Cunard steamer "Europa,"' the second 
 day we were out, and the New York packet-ship, 
 "Chancellor," yesterday, off George's Shoal. We had 
 pleasant passengers, though with but one or two ex- 
 ceptions they were not remarkably desirable as future 
 acquaintances. A German lady and her brother I se- 
 lected as the most attractive residents of Baltimore. 
 Captain Judkins, who commands the c 'Persia,' 7 is the 
 Nestor of the line, and will soon leave her to take the 
 new steamer "Scotia." His excellent seamanship was 
 attested to by Mr. Ward in a brief dinner speech at 
 table, upon our last day at sea. And now we find our- 
 selves removed from the noble ship which has borne us 
 over the Atlantic, into a little steam-tug alongside, and 
 transported with our baggage over to Jersey City, 
 where in a spacious shed or building, our luggage goes 
 through the custom-house ordeal; which in my case 
 was not very rigid. I had the pleasure of being the di- 
 rect means of my German lady friend and brother 
 having their trunks quietly passed without examina- 
 tion, which delighted them. And now here we all 
 separate, who for days have been so pleasantly brought 
 together on board ship. I took a vehicle for the New 
 York Hotel, as my traveling companion selected it; 
 though I usually live at the Astor when in New York. 
 And here, therefore, must end my narrative. 
 
59 
 
 After having journeyed through the East and over 
 Europe, through countries with no governments, and 
 with governments the most absolute, where we have in 
 our youth been taught to look with reason for events 
 the most sanguinary and destructive to human in- 
 terests; contrasting then the beautiful and harmonious 
 working of our own beloved republic with the proba- 
 ble future before those states across the water; I find 
 that the scale has turned, and that while these Euro- 
 pean and eastern nations are at peace, our own land 
 is rent asunder by groundless evils, by disloyalty of 
 its people, by public and private cupidity, and our own 
 entire territory is likely to become one vast theatre of 
 combat, such as the history of France has often re- 
 corded upon its pages though here upon a vaster 
 scale. I have neither the room, the time or the dispo- 
 sition to consider farther the evils which cloud the 
 horizon of the future of this country; but I trust that 
 they may be averted by a kind Providence, and that 
 our nation may experience its mercy rather than the 
 visitation of its displeasure. Wishing every one who 
 journeys from China, overland, as pleasant a trip as I 
 have had myself, I conclude. 
 
 H. P. B. 
 
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