THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES Ex Libris Catharine F. Richmond and Henry C. Fall . fsoo. /r L/L i- HERE AND THERE IN NEW ENGLAND AND CANADA. ALL ALONG SHORE. M. F. SWEETSER. PliOFl '.S'A'A F lL L rSTltA TED. ISSUED BY PASSENGER DEPARTMENT BOSTON & MAINE RAILROAD. 1 8 is i) . COPYUIOHT, iss'j. DANA .1. FI.AMH.KS, HANI) AVEUY SUPPLY f'O., BOSTON. F CONTENTS. CHAPTER. PAGE. I. A FAIIJ START KIIOM BOSTON- l.~> The Kastern and Western Divisions. How to Go. The Suburban River. Soincrvillc. Chelsea. Revere Beach. The Lynn Marshes. Saugus. The City of Shoes. Xahant. II. SWAMl'SCOTT 10 Cool and Salty Breezes. Old Times. Fishermen's Beach. Whale's Beach. Phillips Beach. Beach Bluff. Clifton. III. MAHBLKIIKAD 2:5 Abbott Hall. Ancient Mansions. Barnegat. The Fading Dialect. Allies Surname. Shoe-Making. St. Michael's. Father Taylor. Yachtsmen's Paradise. Lowell Island. Marblehead Neck. River- head Beach. The Xanepashemet. IV. SALKM 34 V. CAPK Axx 43 Beverly Shores. Montserrat. Pride's Crossing. Beverly Farms. West Manchester. Manchester-hy-the-Sea. The Masconomo. William Black. A Fine Memorial Library. Magnolia. Hunt's Studio. Hafe's Chasm. -Xorman's \\'<>r. (iloucester. Bass Kocks. Kockport. Piiieon ( \ive. Annisquam VI. ESSKX NOKTH . 59 VII. NE\VIU uvrour (><> IX. I'oi: TS^IUC i n Strawberry I'.ank. A Na\al 1'ort. Hist the Tmv n The 1'nitfil SlMif~ Na\y -^'ai' X. NEWCASTLE 82 Forgotten Fortresses. The Walbach Tower. The Hotel Went- \vorth. Jaffrey Point. 'J'hc IIomcH of Two Poets. Bits of Sea- Song. The House of Governor Wentworth. XI. THE ISLES OF SHOALS 86 The Leightons. An Artists' and Authors' Resort. Views of Sea and Sky. The Days of the Pirates and Seal-Hunters. Appledore. Star Island. A Vanished Town. XII. KlTTKKY AND YO11K 89 Kittt-ry Point. Fort McClary. Pepperrells and Sparhawks. Gerrish Island. York Harbor. York Minster. Norwood Farm. Long Sands. Cape Neddick. Boon Island. York Beach. Bald-Head Cliff. AgaraenticuB. XIII. WELLS AND KENNKBUNK 100 North Berwick. The Eastern and Western Divisions. Wells. Ogunquit. The Elms. Kennebunk. XIV. KENNEBUNKPOHT 103 An Ancient Maritime Village. A River for Pleasure-Boating. Kennebunk Beach. Cape Porpoise. XV. BlDDEFORD AND SACO 110 The Old Industrial Cities. Biddeford Pool. Fortune's Rocks. Goose Rocks. Saco. XVI. OLD-ORCHARD BEACH 112 Ferry Beach. Ocean Park. The Beach Railroad. The Historic "Old Orchard." The Days of War. Pine Point. Scarborough Beach. XVII. PORTLAND 118 Munjoy's Hill. The Bombardment of Portland. K'amous Natives. A Romanesque Library. The New Longfellow Statue. State Street. Cape Elizabeth. Casco Bay. Ciishing's Island. Harps- well. XVIII. BATH AND POPHAM BEACH 127 Farther Eastward. Orr's Island. Fort Popham. Hunnewell's Point. Indians j\s. Anglicans. XIX. BOOTH HAY 129 A Charming Voyage. Arrowsie. Westport. Hell-Gate. Five Islands. Boothbay. Squirrel Island. An Archipelago of Sum- mer Delights. PEXOUSCOT BAY 131 The Western yEgean. A Battle-Haunted Ray. Camden. Mount Megnnticook. Beautiful Villas. Fort Point. Castine. Dice's Head. Mor.vr DESEIJT 137 liar Harbor. Seal Harbor. -.Vorth-East and Sonth-W.-st Harbors. The Coast to the Kastward. The Norway of America. Sulli- van. Sorrento. Winter Harbor. Macliias. ( 'utler. XXII. 1'ASSAMAO.rODDY P>AY 143 The Frontier of the Republic. St. Andrews. The Algonquin. A Perfect Yachting-Crnund. Campobcllo and Grand Menaii. Tlie Remoter Eastern Coast. ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE. BIKD'S-KYE MAP OF BOSTON" & MAIXK RAILROAD. . . Frontispiece AlTOGRAPII PoKM, 15Y JoiIX G. WniTTIF-lt 12 NAHAXT FROM LYXX. CLIFFS AT NAIIAXT. P.UKAKKKS AT SWAMPSCOTT. FlSIIKUMKX'S BAY, S\VAMPSCOTT .... 21 PKACII'S POINT, MARIH.KHKAD. CHASM, MARIJLKIIKAD XF.CK. TrcKF.u HOUSE 25 TCCKKR'S WHARF, MAUIU.KIIKAD 27 Ix AND AROUND MARIJLKIIKAD. MARIJLKHKAD HARIJOR. CACSK- \VAY. Ix Tin: OLD Kismx<;-To\vx 2!) FOI:T SF.WAI.L, MAIMII.KIIKAD :>() DISTANT VIFAV OF MAKBLKHKAD LIGHT :!1 KASTKISX YACHT-CLTH HOKSK, MAUULKIIKAD NKCK ;>2 SOTTH Cni'KCii, SALKM NOKTII CuriK'ii, SAI.F.M EAST-IXDI.V MAIJIXF. HALL. SALKM I-57 OLD CrsTOM-IlorsK. SALKM :!S OLD WITCH HorsK. SALKM 'M WF.ST M ANCIIKSIKI; 45 MKMOIHAL LIUUAKY. M.VXCIIKSTKK-BY-TIIK-SK.V 47 MAGNOLIA KKOM TIIK NOUTH-F.AST 4S A (il.IMPSF. OF (il.orCKSTKi: 51 OLD WlIAKVKS AT (il.orCKSTF.il T>2 (JATK Ilorsi:, KASTF.KX POINT. GLOTCKSTKI: r>4 THATCH Kit's ISLAND. CAPK ANN .">."> Dl'MMKU ACADI.MY. BYFIKLI) 114 INDIAN HILL. NKWIU'KY (!."> CHAIN I>i:ii>(;i:. Xi:\\ 'itntYPOi: r (!7 BlItTHPI.ACK OF WlMTTIF.lt. XKAIt II A YF.lt I! I I.I HAMPTON MAHSIIKS ?."> TIIK ISI.KS OF SHOALS. WIIITK-ISLAXD LIGHT 77 Tin: MOITII OF I'oi: TSMOTTH HAKHOK. OLD Four POINT . . 7!' PORTSMOUTH ILvititou FKO.M KITTKKY POINT *<) CurRCH HILL AND NAVY-YARD 81 ()M> TUWKK AT NEWCASTLE, Four CONSITTCTIOX 83 COTTAGE AT JAKKREY POINT 84 OLD WEXTWORTII HOUSE 85 WHITE ISLAND KROM STAK ISLAND 87 BARN POINT, YORK. ME 90 FORT McCl.ARY. KlTTK.RY POINT 91 YOKK HARBOR. -Tin-: Nn$m,K 93 EARLY MORNING. THE XruuLK, YOKK BEACH 95 UNION BLCKK, YOI:K 9(i KoAi:iN(; HOCK. BOOX-!SLAXD LK;HT. VIEW rno.M THE ELMS, WELLS 97 STOKM AT BALD-HEAD ('LIKE 9s SALMOX-FALLS BKIDOE 101 BALD-HEAD ('LIKE, <)<;rx(jriT 102 HOCKS AT KEXXEHrXKI'OHT. FltOM OCEAX Bl.UEE TOWAKD KEXXEIU'XKI'OKT. Bl.OWIXd CAVE, KEXXEIH'X K I'OIiT . . 105 THE BKID<;E EIJO.M OLD Sini'-Y AKD. KENNEnrxKrouT. KEXNE- isrxK BEACH. MOTTII OK KENXEISCXK HIVEK. Oi.D-Oi;- CIIAKD HEACII 107 ()CKAX-VlEW KKOM ('AI'K. AlM'XDEL. IvEN NEHCNK 1'OKT .... 1011 ()LI>-()K( IIAIID BEACH 115 VIEWS IN AM) AKOIND PoUTLAND 119 UNION STATION. POKTLAND 120 LOX(;EEI.LO\\'S HorsE. POKTLAND 121 PORTLAND I.H;HT . . . 122 WHITE HEAD. PORTLAND HARIIOR 124 OTTER ('LIKE. Mor.sr DESERT 13ceiie of colonial wars and exploits. Revolutionary episodes, and tin- ii'reat deeds of our naval and mercantile marine. And to return to the needful and prosaic demands of the nineteenth-century citi/en. we shall lind all alonu: these beaches and harbors and islands summer resting-places for scores of thousands of people, varying iu cost ;m d e,iiui'ort from I he four dollar-a-d, iv hotels to the foiir-do||ar-a-week farm lioardinu'- 10 In this book, an endeavor is made to collect a few picturesque facts from the histories of the coast communes, a few bits of legend and poesy, and a series of short and plain descriptions of the chief places of resort on the coast northward from Boston, and as far as Passama- quoddy Bay. The present little volume is one of the three companion-books issued by the Passenger Department of the Boston & Maine Railroad, under the general title of " Here and There in New England and Canada." This work is naturally divided into "All Along Shore," treating of the beaches and islands ; " Among the Mountains," dealing with the highlands of New England, from Mount Holyoke, Wachusett, and Monadnock, to the White and Eranconia Mountains and Dixville Notch; and " Lakes and Streams," devoted to a consideration of the beautiful inland waters of New Hampshire, Vermont, and Maine, and especially to Winnipesaukee, Sunapee, Moosehead, the Kangeleys, Memphremagog, and the far-away Lake St. John, in Northern Canada. Richly bound and handsomely illustrated, it is hoped that these books may be of service both to actual travellers and to people who are planning for a summer-journey. The Boston & Maine Railroad also issues a little book devoted solely to lists of the hotels and boarding-houses in each of the localities on or near its route, rates of excursions and circular-trips, and the service of its parlor and sleeping cars. It is entitled "Boston & Maine Railroad Summer Excursions." With this practical helper, the cost of an eastern trip, in time and money, may be computed approximately. OFFICERS BOSTON & MAINE RAILROAD. GEORGE C. LORD, President ....... BOSTON. JAMES T. FUKUEK, General Manager ...... BOSTON. DANA J. FLANDERS, General Passenger and Ticket Agent . . . BOSTON. CHARLES E. LORD, Assistant General Passenger and Ticket Agent . . BOSTON. GEORGE W. STORER, Assistant General Passenger-Agent . . . BOSTON. CHARLES A. WAITE, Div. Passenger-Agent, Worcester, Nashua & Portland Div., WORCESTER. WILLIAM MERRITT, Superintendent Western Division .... BOSTON. DANIEL W. SANBORN, Superintendent Eastern Division . . . BOSTON. JOHN W. SANUORN, Superintendent Northern Division . . WOI.FEUORO' JTNCTION. GKORGE W. HURLBURT, Superintendent Worcester, Nashua & Portland Division, WORCESTER. W. F. SIMONS, Superintendent Southern Division, Lowell System . . BOSTON. H. E. FOLSOM, Superintendent Passumpsic Division, Lowell System, . LYNDONVILLE, VT. G. E. TODD, Superintendent Northern-Railroad Division, Lowell System, CONCORD, N.H. FRANK D. GOURLEY, Travelling Passenger-Agent . . ... BOSTON. TICKET-AGENTS OF THE BOSTON & MAINE RAILROAD OF WHOM EXCURSION-TICKETS CAN BE OBTAINED. SAMIV.L GRAY . 218 Washington Street, three doors south of State Street, Boston. T M v \ Station, Haymarket Square, Ifcston. J.M.FRENCH > Station, Causeway Street, ston! N. B. DANA . . . . Lowell Station, Causeway Street, Boston. C. M. Rur.r.LES ....... Union Station, Worcester. LANCASTER & STEEDE ...... 434 Main Street, Worcester. J. B. LKPIKK ...... 25 Washington Square, Worcester. L. W. MARDEN ......... Station, Salem. A. II. GVINCY ....... Station, North River, Salem. A. A. DAVIS ......... Station, Lynn. J. CLARK ........ Station, South Lawrence. C. K. MILLER ....... Station, North Lawrence. H. II. CrsiiiNG ...... Lowell Station, North Lawrence. A. (.'. TAH.KV ........ Station, Haverhill. F. J. CLARK ..... Station, Central Street, Lowell. A. V. CASWKI.L ...... Station, Middlesex Street, Lowell. G. (). WHITK .... . Station, Merrimac Street, Lowell. F. W. 1'orE ......... Station, Clinton. C. H. KINNF.Y ........ Station, Ayer Junction. F. BAKR .......... Station, Nashua. G. SWAIN . . . ... Lowell Station, Nashua. A. F.u.toTT ........ Station, Manchester. C. L. GiLviiiKE . ..... Station, Concord. C. W. KNOWLES ........ Station, Novburyport. W. T. PERKINS ........ Station, PurtMiiouth. P. WHITE, JR. . . ..... Station, F.xeter. C. A. HASEI.TINE ........ Station, Dover. F. N. CIIASK . . . Station, Great Falls. N. T. KIMP. u.i. . ...... Station, Ro,-h-ster. A. F 1!. FLOYD ........ Station, >.ilni RirHARDSON St. ill' C. J. Wu,(,IN C. P. WALDRON The Boston & Maine Railroad o\vcs its besyinnin.u: to tlie people of Andover, who in Is:!;! petitioned the Massachusetts Legislature for authority to construct a railroad from near their South-Parish meeting- house to the Boston & Lowell Railroad in Wilmington. Tin- Andover & Wilmington Railroad received a charter iu is:!:!, and took over three years to build its eiidit miles of track, which was opened in Is;5i;. It was calculated that the new line would inherit the business of the Andover, Ilaverhill. and Deny stages, amounting annually to l.">.i;sl passengers and .">.7oo tons of freight conveyed in ba.u.ifajfc'-wajjons through Andover to Boston, the receipts from tlioe sources aggregat- ing *_>:!.] 110. 7.">. Deducting sL>..V.)L:U to be paid to the Boston 'c Lowell for toll. si;. 000 for interest on the capital stock of slon.noO. and si 1 .70S for salaries and repairs, the net annual profits of the road were ex- pected to amount to s:!.,">.">s. 1 1. The people of Ilaverhill were unwilling to have Andover surpass them in railway accommodations, and in Is:;.") they petitioned for au- thoritv to extend tin- line from Andover to "the central village in Ilaverhill." It reached Bradford on Oct. (5, is;>7 ; and further authority had then already been secured to extend the rails to the frontier of New Hampshire, whose Legislature had also authori/.ed it (June '27. 1 >.">.">. to be built across their territory. The line reached HUM Kings- ton on Jan. 1. is-jO; Kxeter. .lime _'('.. ls|it : Newmarket. -Inly L's. lsll : and Dover. Sept. L'l. ]s|l. 'I'he Leu'Mat lire of Maine then authori/.ed it< extension into that Slate, and on Feb. '2. 1>I:',. it reached South Ber- wick, tlie branch from Rollinsford to (Ireat Fall- beinir opened .Inly 24. ls4:>. ILn'inii' then a line tifty-e'iLi'lit milex lontr. from \\'ilmini. r - ton to South Berwick, tlie corporation resolved to cut loo-e From the Boston >.<: Loxvell Railroad, and secure an independent line to Boston. The (ieneral Court granted \\n~- jietilioii March Id. 1-11: and by .Inly 1. IS-t.". train- ivin over the new route into t lie met ropolN of Ma--a- 14 chusetts. The Haymarkct-Square station was occupied March 6, 1846. The Medford line went into operation March 1, 1847; and the Methuen Branch, Aug.' 27, 184'J. From 1847 to 1871, the Boston & Maine Railroad and the Eastern Railroad enjoyed a joint use of the Portland, Saco & Portsmouth Rail- road; and in 1871, when this line terminated its contract, so far as the Boston & Maine was concerned, the latter corporation, unwilling to be left in the woods at South Berwick, built a new route from that point to Portland, opening it Feb. 15, 1873. The Eastern Division of the Boston & Maine Railroad was started as a Salem enterprise, chartered in April, 183G. The Eastern road was opened to Salem on Aug. 27, 1838; to Newburyport, Aug. 28, 1840; and to Portsmouth, Nov. !), 1840. The Portland, Saco & Portsmouth Railroad opened its whole line Nov. 21, 1842. The terminus was at East Boston (with a ferry to Boston) until 1854, when it opened the station on Causeway Street, in the city proper. The Marblehead Branch went into operation in 1839; the Gloucester Branch, in 1847; the Salisbury Branch, in 1848. In 1853 the Eastern Railroad began operating the South-Reading Branch. The Portsmouth, Great Falls & Conway Railroad was completed through to North Conway in June, 1872, and leased to the Eastern. The Eastern Railroad was taken pos- session of by the Boston & Maine Railroad on Dec. 2, 1884. The corporation received its title, the Boston & Maine Railroad, from the act of the New-Hampshire Legislature, in ls.T>; and the Boston & Maine Railroad Company of Massachusetts was created in 1841. The Boston Lowell Railroad, now the Southern Division of the Lowell System of the Boston & Maine Railroad, was the first organized and the first commenced of the Boston railroads. The Boston & Lowell road was opened June 27, ]s35. In 1*57 a new station arose, on Causeway Street, which was replaced by the present line depot in 1*74. The line was composed of " fish-belly" rails, laid on stone sleep- ers, which rested on parallel sunken walls of masonry. The first loco- motive on the route came from Stephenson's works at Newcastle-upon- Tyne, and had an English engineer. The Boston & Lowell System, with the exception of the Boston, Concord & Montreal Railroad, was taken possession of by the Boston & Maine Railroad on Oct. 11, 1887; and the Manchester & Lawrence Railroad was taken Nov. 21. IMS?. Looking to the farther western lines of this great system, we find that the Worcester & Nashua Railroad was formed Nov. tern Division may be used, as each of them runs to Portland. Or the coast may be followed more' closely by going by the Eastern Division as far as North Berwick, in Maine (where the two divisions cross each other), and thence following the line of the shore by the Western Division, which, from this point northward. U nominally the Western Division, but geographically the eastern division. Having comfortably arranged our travelling iiii/uiliii xnt'i. and set- tled down in an easy place in the Pullman car. or in one of the ahno>t equally comfortable passenger-cars, the signal for starting i- awaited. a- we study the faces and traits of our travelling neighbors, and think complacently of the glorious journey ahead. On leaving the terminal station in Bo-ton, the train niove< out over the network of railway bridges that cros and almo-l hide the Charles Hi River. The tall spars of three-masted schooners and the trim rigging of provincial brigs appear on either side, cheek by jowl with bustling locomotives, and trains bound for Saratoga or Montreal or Western New England. The grim State Prison of Massachusetts frowns down, in its cold granite sternness, on the right : and on the other side tower the many factory-chimneys of East Cambridge. The populous hills of Cliarlcstown next appear, and long continue in sight, as if they are some magnetic mountain-range, from which our Pullman train vainly endeavors to escape. For a considerable distance the route lies through the eastern part of Somerville, a city of about :>.j.oou inhabitants, with its famous old powder-house, built by a French Huguenot in 17<)4. and despoiled of its military stores in 1774 by 200 British troop*: its memorial battery on Central Hill, in proud memory of the 40 otlicers and 1.00.5 soldiers sent hence to the Civil War: its parks and public library, and other fine buildings. On the west, across a vast park of freight-cars, rises the low black dome of the McLean Asylum for the Insane, which has been in successful operation for upwards of seventy years. Beyond the limits of Somerville. the line runs out on the broad meadows of the Mystic, and crosses that river on a long bridge, with attractive views to the westward, up to the distant hills on \vliich rise the halls of Tufts College, with "the most perfect campanile in America." Next come the salt-marshes of Everett, a quiet little suburban town of recent formation, many of whose people do business in Boston. Here the Saugus Branch swings otl 1 to the left, towards the Middlesex Fells and the rocky hill* of Maiden. Another wide curve of the track, around the radial point of Bunker-Hill Monument, and the city of Chel- sea is reached, with its thirty thou*and inhabitant*. it> famous pot- teries, and various manufactories, (in the riirht. across a tidal lagoon, rises the United-States Naval Hospital: and on the other side, high up on Powdcr-IIorn Hill, stands the Massachusetts Soldiers' Home, main- tained by popular contributions as a hntt-l ilf-s inruUji-s for worn-out veterans of the late war. It was while' passing the Chelsea soldiers' monument in the train that Longfellow made his droll epigram : But the beautiful home on the heights above Chelsea removes the >tinu from t his verse, now. Roundinir Powder-Horn Hill, the train speed- away across the pictur- esque mar-lies in the town of Revere, with the summer-hotels on Revere Beach not far away, and connected with the main line by a branch from ju-t ea-t of the ^tation. Broad expanses of blue -ea are vi-iblr beyond. Farther out. ri-inir from the ocean, is the peninsula of Naliant. with : t- inanv trees uud cottaire- and -piivs. 17 Beyond Chelsea, the Grand-Junction Railroad crosses our line, run- uin . and pausing in the slat ion of Lynn, one-quarter of whose fj ft \- thousand people, are engaged in the making of shoes, turninn' out an annual prod- uct of above twenty million dollars in value. If time allowed, we miii'ht find it interesting to vi-it it- handsome city-hall, the -tatuc- crowned soldiers' monument, the Common, the beautiful memorial church of St. Stephen, the far-viewing High K'ick. the Lake- of Lynn, 18 Pine-Grove Cemetery, Dungeon Rock, and other local lions. Or we could drive down by Xahant Street and Ocean Street and Sagamore Hill, where many handsome villas of Boston merchants and other sum- mer-visitors adorn the rocky shore which stretches from Xahant Beach to Swampscott. And public carriages make frequent trips along the isthmus-strand to Xahant, with its many beaches and caverns and sea- beaten rocks, the " cold-roast Boston.'' where the oldest families of the Puritan city find congenial summer-homes, with but little molestation from hotel-people. About that half-islanded town, anchored in the ocean, cling a host of memories of Hawthorne and Emerson. Longfel- low and Whittier, Agassiz and Webster. Prescott and Motley. Howells and Lowell, and other great men. Just beyond Lynn the train comes within sight of the ocean again, and the dark round tower which belongs to the Swampscott water- works. A branch line sweeps oft 1 to the right, to the beach-stations between Swampscott and Marblehead. Nor can we end this chapter better than with a few couplets from Longfellow's poem. '-The Bells of Lynn, heard at Xahant." " O curfew of the setting sun '. O Bells of Lynn ! O requiem of the dying Hells of Lynn! Over the shilling sands the wandering cattle homeward Follow each other at your call, O Bells of Lynn '. The distant litrht-house hears, and with his (lamina simia! Answers you, passing the watchword on, O Bells of Lynn! And down the darkening coast run the tumultuous surges, And dap their hands, and shout to you, O Bells of Lynn! " 19 CHAPTER II. SWR1VIPSCOTT. COOL AND SALTY BREEZES. OLD TIMES. FISHERMEN'S BEACH. WHALE'S BEACH. PHILLIPS BEACH. BEACH BLUFF. CLIFTON. TOURISTS bound for the hotels and villas along Fishermen's and Whale's Beaches, and in the village proper, get off the train at Svvampscott station, on the main line, whence a great number and variety of public conveyances run to the points above-men- tioned. The Beach-Bluff station is the place to alight for the Hotel Preston; Clifton station, for the Clifton and Crowninshield ; and Dev- ereux station, for the Devereux Mansion, and for Marblehcad Neck by carriage. Swarapscott is practically a maritime ward of Boston, a dainty sum- mer-home for hundreds of merchants and business-men and their fam- ilies, within half an hour of State Street, on the symmetrical sweep of a magnificent bay, open to the sea and the fairest views of distant shores. Nowhere arc there more attractive beaches, or fairer out- looks, or sweeter ocean-air. the pure and bracing atmosphere of the famous North Shore. . The cool and sally breex.es of lliis penin- sula send the blood tingling through the veins, and set the checks to glowing, and tranquillize the nerves. -at once bullet ing and healing. Here you need warm wraps even for August evenings. Another pleasing trait of Swampscott is found in quick contrasts of shore, from the rocky border of Black-Will's Cliff and Lincoln-House Point and (Jalloupc's Point to the level sands of the three intervening beaches, Fishermen's, Whale's, and Phillips. each of them just long enough for capital landscape effect; and back along the hills, among the ledges, are forests of evergreens and dales rich in many lloxvers, and here and there glimpses of the surrounding Atlantic. The atmospheric changes along this coast are full of delicacv and fascination, witli their gray days and mirages, middle tone^ and cloii.N of pearl and ash, and the vivid blue of serene days, wiili the -.Imn.'^ of Nah ant and Egg Rock and Xanfaskel. and the Milton IlilK clear in the crystal light. The Somerset-Club and Papanti people make merry here all the live- long summer, with their exclusive parti<-<. yachting, coaching, moon- liirlit riding, concert <. amateur theatrical-; and iiiiu~trel-y. tniui-. and dancing in all its varieties. Thc: the custom-house, weather-beaten and venerable as the rocks about it; Floyd Ireson's house: the house hi Darling Street where sat " Hannah binding shoes." the pirate's house, evacuated in a hurry, wiih vast treasures, when its truculent owner heard that the king's men wen- 25 after him ; the old house on Training-field Hill, in which lived Michael Howden, the loyalist, whose domicile was stormed by the angry populace. The little black house perched up on the rocks, on Front Street, near Tucker Street, is the oldest in town, bearing date from before 1. Peach's Point, Nfurl.lehead. 2. Chii-in, M;irl.lche;i. Iti.'ii). and moored 1o ;i MOIU- chimney of Imuv dinirn-ion<. Front Street follow^ tin- liarltor-lim- to I-'ort Scxvnll. an abandoned and u^ele^x stronu'liold. \\ith locked ca->eniate> and dnnu'eon^. and enimiilinir \\alN. 'I'he paternal irovcrnmi-nt of the republic allo\v> Marblehcad to use the old defence as a public park. 26 One clay during the War of 1812, three British men-of-war chased the frigate Constitution into Marblehead Harbor, and would have cap- tured her there, but that the men of the village rushed to the fort and from its guns poured such a torrent of singular missiles at the royalist ships that they wore about and put to sea. The old part of the town, where survive the memories of the stalwart men of Jersey and Guernsey who founded this old-time fishing-colony, is remote from the railway, and bears the odd title of Barnegat. Here the lanes wander around between the rocks, and the houses face every way, and the people "crim" when the winter winds blow, and are sometimes "grouty," and "squeal" rocks at unsuspect- ing cats. The remarkable Marblehead dialect, composed of idioms from the Channel Islands and the west of England, whence most of the original settlers came, has now wellnigh vanished, and is pre- served only in "Agnes Surriage" and "Skipper Ireson's Ride," with its refrain : " Here's Flud Oirson, for his horrd horrt, Torr'd an' futhi-rr'd an" corr'd in a corrt By the women o' Morble'ead." From the water-front you may clamber up Shinbone Alley to its head, where the Fountain Inn used to stand, and where the noble Frankland first saw Agnes Surriage, the rosy village-beauty, bare- footed and on her knees, scrubbing the floor. Near by is the corner that has always been known by the Marbleheaders, for some occult reason, as Nowhere: " and in the same quarter the ancient cemetery spreads along the hill-top, with the grave of Lattimore, dated 1(590; that of Peter Dixey, a mariner so ignorant that he sounded all the way from England to Marblehead : and various locally distinguished Reads and Dixons and Lees, and others. On the highest point, occupying the place of the old meet ing-house, is a tall monument commemorating the Marblehead victims of the storm of September 19th, ls-Kj. on the Grand Hanks of Newfoundland, when sixty-live fishermen from this town were engulfed, " leaving forty-three widows and one hundred and fifty-live fatherless children." The view from the burying-ground includes a vast area of sea and shore, and the old salts of the villaire delight in coming up hither, to smoke their pipes, and look oil' on the blue plain and its islands and sails. <)n the liiirh blutt' near by stood Fort Washington, a defensive work of the Revolutionary era. Sojonrners at Marblchead should carefully read ISvinier's capital historical romance of Amies Surriage." founded on Sir Harry Frank- land's singular adventures here, in the old Provincial days, and contain- ing most brilliant descriptions of the ancient town and its ways. Frankland's grandfather was Oliver Cromwell's great-irrandsoii. and his father was governor of tin- Kast-India Company in 1710. when Harry was born, in Bengal. In later years he was an intimate friend of 27 28 AValpole, Fielding, and Chesterfield (the latter of whom he greatly resembled) ; yet destiny gave his fate into the hands of a Marblehead fisherman's daughter. Near the site of the Fountain Inn (at whose well romantic visitors may drink) is the "Old Brig" house, long ago the home of Edward Dimond, the famous wizard and sea-captain, whose ship's decks at morning were often found heaped high with fish, caught by goblins during the night. It is a matter of tradition that Moll Pitcher, the fortune-teller of Lynn, was Dimond's daughter, born in the " Old Brig." Shoe-making has always been an important industry of the town, for when the fishing-fleets came home in the late autumn, their mariners settled down for the winter at this more comfortable work ; and every Marblehead home had its little one-story shop near by, perched on the crags, or nestling in the yard. Here the master of the family spent the winter making shoes by hand, the while over his lapstone he dis- cussed with his neighbors the politics of the day, or told marvellous stories of the sea and its perils. The fisheries have long since passed away, and the connected industry has developed into the chief business of the town, its broader and more scientific development taking the form of complex labor-saving machinery, in great buildings, and with battalions of trained workmen. This industry suffered great losses by fires, in 1H77 and 188s, which swept away all the district of shoe-fac- tories. Cotton Mather says that when a Puritan minister preached to the Marbleheaders. exhorting them to be a religious people, lest the pur- pose of the foundation of Massachusetts should be frustrated, a fisher- man spoke up : Sir. you are mistaken. You think you are preaching to the people at the Bay. Our main end is to catch fish.'' These men were without government for nearly half a century, because in Massa- chusetts no one hut church-members could hold ollice : and Marblehead had no church-members. Her people came here for lisli and fight, and their chief luxury was a glass of grog and a pipeful of "dog-leg" or pig-tail." But they were an honest and fearless tribe.- sturdy, generous, and warmhearted. old St. Michael's, the third Episcopal church in Massachusetts (coming after King's Chapel, Boston, and Queen Anne's Chapel. Xe\v- bury). was built in 1711. of materials brought from England, and the. stanch oak timbers from the mother-land still uphold the edifice, which was refitted in ISSN, and provided with a number of beautiful memorial windows of stained i^lass, one of them presented by the Senate of Massachusetts. The chandelier \vas given by John Klbridire. esq., of ye city of Bristol. 17:!2:" the reredos in the chancel came also from English benefactors: and some of the trees in the church-yard were brought from Canterbury. The royal arms were torn down from the reredos .ind de-t roved by Marblehead patriots, \\-ho also ranu' the church-bell until it fell to pieces. 29 30 It was at Marblehead, in 1819, that the young Methodist preacher, afterwards world-renowned under the title of Father Taylor, came down to save a sinking church, and found an unexpected reward in the lovely Deborah Millett, who became his wife, the famous Mother Tay- lor of the next fifty years. Looking across one day from the cliffs of Xahant to the gray houses of Marblehead, the great evangelist jubi- lantly cried out: " There I found a jewel." Of all the smaller harbors on the coast, this is the favorite haven of yachtsmen, and on the blue sea outside are the best courses for racing. For the last few years these waters have been visited by the best yachts in the world. Volunteer, Mayflower, Puritan, Priscilla, Gcnesta, Galatea, lying at anchor in the snug little harbor for days, and then spreading to the breeze vast clouds of snowy canvas, and stretching to 55" TORT PEWAT.T,, MARBLEHEAD. seaward until they sink below the distant liori/.on. Three large yacht- clubs have their houses on this harbor, the Eastern, the Corinthian, and the Bay-View (the latter being on Goodwin's Head). On the east end of the Marblehead peninsula, at Peach's Point, Benjamin W. Crowninshield has established a village of summer-cot- tages, with pleasant grounds. Farther around, at Xaugus Head, are the remains of a fortress, built during the Civil War. and overlooking Salem Harbor. A little over a mile outside of Marblehead Light is Lowell Island, with its 2(!. when he found that Cape Ann's bare rocks and immeasurable expanse of lofty forests shrouded in the gloom of ages " gave his little colony only a point of vantage for lishing, without opportunities for cultivating corn or pasturing the cattle that the Dorchester Company had. that Roger Conant led thirty of his people to Naumkeag. the site of Salem, and established them there. Like Boston and Plymouth, and other New-England towns, Salem was settled in the clearings made by the 7ndians for their corn-fields, trees then being abhorred by the colonists, and one of the chief advantages of the site being (in the Rev. Mr. Higginson's words) that there was not a tree in the same." For some time the Indians and English planted the Meld* in common. 35 The charter given by the Council of Plymouth to Conant's men was superseded by a new one, under which Gov. John Endicott and his colonists landed at Salem, in Ki'28, incorporating the town the year fol- lowing, and making it the capital of Massachusetts. The usual mode of travelling between the little log-built villages along the Massachusetts coast was in dug-outs or canoes, made by hollowing out pine logs twenty feet long and not quite a yard wide. In such frail vessels the sportsmen of the colonial days " went fowling two leagues to sea." It has been pointed out that the great commerce of Salem and of Venice had much in common, both beginning by the free boating of farmers and fishers on convenient waters about their homes ; rising to high prosperity by sending salt-fish to Catholic countries ; and further aggrandized by importing Oriental silks and spices, and other precious commodities. In less than forty years the navigation had increased so greatly that when the Indians broke out in war, in 1077, they seized thirteen Salem ketches (ketched them, perchance), "and captivated the men," by reason of which, and to somehow help the captivated fishermen, the First Church kept a solemn fast. The subsequent rise of a world-embracing commerce here, and the achievements of its sea-kings, form one of the most glorious chapters in American history. Here were the very first vessels to open our commerce with Calcutta and Bombay, Arabia and Madagascar, Batavia and Australia, Para and Montevideo, Zanzibar and Sumatra, and the ports of China. " .Sonic native, merchant of the East, they nay, (Whether Canton, Calcutta, or Bombay), Had in his counting-room a map, whereon Across the tiekl in capitals was drawn The name of Salem, meant to represent That Salem was the Western ( 'ontinent, While in an upper corner was put down A dot named Boston, SAI>EJI'S leading town." < '. T. Brnnks. Many volumes (and right interesting ones, too) could be written of the past and present citizens of Salem, of Frederick Townshend Ward, admiral-general and high mandarin of China, and the foremost soldier of the empire; of Jones Very, the inspired recluse poet and mystic, the Western George Herbert; of Col. J. W. Kabens, the best of whose poems was that brilliant college-song, '-The Last Ciirar:" of Charles H. Foster, the world-renowned Spiritualist, "the modern Cagliostro;" of Mary E. C. Wyeth. the Ethel Gray" of poetic litera- ture; of Goody Spencer, an exile from England, who lir-t introduced candy Gibraltar* to American youth: of Charles T. Brook^. poet him- self, and translator of Goethe and Ivichter: of Gen. James Miller, the hero of Lundy's Lane: of Gen. I-rael I'utnam. one of \Va~hiiiLrton'^ bravest officers ; of Benjamin Thompson, afterwards Count Utimford. 36 and prime minister of Bavaria; of John Rogers, the sculptor; of W. H. Prescott, the historian of Mexico and Peru ; of Gen. F. W. Lander, 1. South Church, !?:ilcin. 2. North Church, Salem. one of the heroes and victims of the Civil War; of Eradstreet and EnUicott. Pickering and Cabot, liowditch and Peirce, Derbv and Crown- 37 inshield, and scores of others, proudly conspicuous in the annals of America and of the world. The aristocratic old families of Salem the Endicotts, Crownin- shields, Tuckermans, Silsbees. Peabodys, Kantouls, and a few others have enjoyed the advantages of wealth and ability, singly or together, ever since the foundation of Massachusetts, and are reputed to be singularly exclusive, because satisfied in their own charmed circle. On Essex Street is the venerable colonial-looking house of William C. Endicott, Secretary of War of the United States during President Cleveland's administration. You may ramble at will down the quiet old semi-rural streets, under their lines of spreading trees, and study the great mansions of dull red EAST-INDIA MAIUNK UAI.L, SALEM. brick, ivy-grown and secluded, when' the East-India merchant"; dwell in stately simplicity and grave decorum, in that far-past time when Salem was the Sidon of America. Here are quaint old dame-schools and cent-shops, architecture of the Georgian era. and everywhere memories of Alice Pynchcon and Wi/ard Manle and Doctor Grim>ha\ve and other creatures of the romancer's fancy. If time allows, you may go down to the old North Bridge, and >ee the granite and bron/.e memorial, showing where three hundred British troops under Lieut. -Col. Leslie were sent hack to their boat- by armed Essex: or the Peabody house, on Charles Street, where Hawthorne wooed his wife ; or Nathaniel BowditehV. birthplace, on Kimball ( 'ourt : or Rufus Choate's house, at \'2 Lvnde Street: or the Narbonne hon-e. 38 at 71 Essex Street, built before 1680; or the quaint old brick city-hall, with its valuable portraits of Saltonstall, Lafayette, and Washington; or the birthplace of Timothy Pickering, at 18 Broad Street, still in the Pickering family ; or Gallows Hill (near the Peabody horse-railroad), where the alleged witches were put to death, in 1602 : or the Essex- County court-house, with Vinton's portrait of Judge Otis P. Lord and William M. Hunt's portrait of Chief-Justice Shaw; or the State Normal School, on Broad Street; or the handsome neo-colonial post-office, 118 Washington Street ; or the Old-Ladies' Home, in the Crowninshield mansion, 114 Derby Street; or the Common, also called Washington Square, set apart in 1714 for a training-field, and surrounded by double rows of elms ; or the custom-house on Derby Street, now seventy years old, with its memories and relics of Hawthorne, and the sea-viewing OLD CUSTOM-HOUSE, SALEM. cupola where the great novelist used to coin his airy fancies ; or the old Dr. Grimshawe house, with its spidery legends. And for a longer excursion yon may ride to Pcabody. the great leather-manufacturing town, with its Peabody Institute, enshrining a magnificent portrait of Queen Victoria, presented by her to George Peabody. painted on a sheet of pure gold. Here, also, is a handsome modern town-hall: and the grave of Eliza Wharton. There is another interesting trip to Danvcrs. with the famous old Collins house, and other architectural and legendary antiquities. Down on narrow Union Street, at No. 21. overhanging the sidewalk, is the old dormer-roofed, huire-chimnied house in whose upper north- east corner-room Nathaniel Hawthorne was born, in the year 1804. The house is now occupied by an Irish family, whose hard-working 39 mother and head at times allows visitors to see the chamber hallowec by the birth of America's greatest novelist. Hawthorne himself has said that the House of the Seven Gable; was a creature of his imagination, solely, but the quaint old house (built in 1GC2) in Turner Street, the last on the right-hand side goin< from Derby Street, doubtless gave him many suggestions for the won derful romance. It was one of his favorite haunts, and in it he wrot< -The Grandfather's Chair." Amid such scenes passed much of th< life of "the New-England Chaucer," whom a noted Boston wit de scribed so well in saying : " He looks like a born pirate." OLD WITCH HOUSK, SALEM. The Roger-Williams house. I'.IO Essex Street, at the corner of North Street, belonged in ]i;:;."-:>i; to Roger Williams, the founder of Rhode Island: and there exists a tradition that the preliminary trials ,->f the witches were held here, in K!!12. Old St. Peter's Church, with its dark granite walls and chapel, its memorial tablets and tombs, and it- ponderou- tower upholding a sweet chime of bells, was the tirst Protestant-Episcopal church in New 40 England, founded in 1639 by John and Samuel Browne ; and the pres- ent ediflce was erected by Bishop Griswold, in 1833. The Peabody Academy of Science occupies East-India Marine Hall (161 Essex Street), with an immense and interesting collection of curiosities from all parts of the world. The Essex Institute owns and occupies the princely old Tucker- Deland mansion, next to Plummer Hall, with its library and collections, of great antiquarian and historical value. Plummer Hall, at No. 134 Essex Street, on the site of Gov. Simon Bradstreet's house, and William H. Prescott's birthplace, was built in 1857 for the Salem Athena?um (founded in 1810), and contains rich por- traits by Copley and Smibert, and historical paintings, relics of the Puritan pioneers, old maps and prints, autographs and medals, and a noble library-hall. Just back of Plummer Hall is the First-Church building, which was erected in 1034, became "a skoole house and watch-house" in 1670, when a larger church was built. In 1760 the town sold it, and it served for many years as a tavern. In 1864, the sturdy frame was re-erected on its present place, and placed within a good covering. In this oldest of American Protestant churches, with its quaint little gallery, are preserved some interesting curiosities, Hawthorne's and Bowditch's desks, spinets, spinning-wheels, and vari- ous ecclesiastical relics. The collections of curiosities in Plummer Hall, East-India Marine Hall, and the Essex Institute are so great as to defy outline, but every one should see them, aided by the kindly old custodians and the official catalogues. The East-India Marine Society was founded in 1799, by the masters and supercargoes of ships that had made the great voyage to the East Indies. Time and space fail us to tell of the witchcraft persecution of two centuries ago ; the campaigns of the old First Massachusetts Regiment, back in the Stuart era; the gallant deeds of hundreds of Salem priva- teers on the high seas ; the valor of the three thousand soldiers who went from this town into the Civil War ; and many other picturesque episodes of long ago. The true color of the past is shown in such delightful recent books as Eleanor Putnam's "Old Salem," Marianne C. D. Silsbee's "A Half-Century of Salem." and Henry M. Brooks's "Olden-Time Series," besides Hawthorne's romances and notes and biography. Of late years there has sprung up a new Salem within the old. a metropolis for the adjacent populous towns of Essex South, with active manufactories, richly endowed scientific institutions of continental fame, and a brilliant local society, made up in part of cultivated immi- ijres from Boston, who find here the choicest advantages of urban life, in a venerable and classic city. Here dwell Edward S. Morse, the fore- most of connoisseurs in Japanese pottery, and whose collection is the finest in the world: Philip Little, the architect of the neo-colonial ; 41 Ross Turner, the artist; Henry M. Brooks, the courtly old antiquary; and many another notable person. The population of the city is about twenty-eight thousand, whom a connoisseur in local ethnology groups into five clearly distinct and unmingling classes, the descendents of the first settlers who were of gentle blood in England, like the Salton- stalls ; the families of the colonial yeomanry, like the Dexters ; the people of other communities long since drawn to Salem, and distin- guished for ability or culture, like the Grays and Bertrams; the com- fortable tradespeople moving in from elsewhere ; and the operatives of every nationality. It will be remembered how the condescending Henry James, in writing about Hawthorne, covered the whole commu- nity with an ignoble mantle of provincial narrowness, and how brightly and gallantly certain of the Salem gentry gave answer to the great cos- mopolitan pessimist. You may take the horse-cars in twenty minutes to The Willows, the north-eastern part of Salem Neck, on the old-time Hospital Point, look- ing out on the beautiful Beverly shores, the craggy strands of Marble- head, and the green islands and level horizons of the outer harbor. This is the favorite picnic-ground of Salem, with pavilions and dining- rooms, fire-works and flying-horses, boats and bath-houses, bowling- alleys and rinks, shooting-ranges, electric lights, and other diversions. At the other end of Salem Neck, on Winter Island, is the summer-resort of Juniper Point, with its hotels and cottages, and lovely views of the harbor and its islands, and Massachusetts Bay. Salem Neck also has the fading ruins of the two forts, Lee and Pick- ering, the one on high ground commanding the outer harbor, and the other frowning on the inner channels, but garrisoned only by mild-eyed cows, and with its magazine used only for the storage of butter and milk. Alongside the battery rises the shapely tower of the light-house. Farther down the bay rise the two light-houses on Baker's Island, a bold and rocky bluff of about sixty acres, with a summer boarding- house on its westerly side. Here also are the Misery Isles, which have been dug over by Spiritualists, in search of buried treasures. Passing out from the castle-like stone station of Salem, the cars rumble into the long, dark Salem 'runnel, for half a century happily known as the Kissing-Bridge" of this route, and the Im-uli- of more than one bright oscillatory poem. And it maybe mentioned here I hat Dr. Holmes, or some equally good authority, has declared that the prettiest girls in America are those of the three Ports" on this rail- way. Newburyport. Portsmouth, and Portland. Too soon the romantic shade-; of the tunnel are left behind, and the broad lagoon of North 15'ivcr opens on the left, bordered by several manorial estates of old Salem families. Then a loiiir bridge is trav- ersed, with the highwav bridge beyond, and the -DHL;- berth between 42 the two occupied by the moorings of a line of yachts. This famous Beverly Bridge had its centennial celebration in the year 1888. Still farther to the eastward, beyond Salem Neck and The Willows, opens a broad reach of the blue sea, studded by the islands off Salem Harbor, the Great Misery and Baker's Islands, with tall light-houses. Beverly covers a group of pleasant streets between Bass River and Mackerel Cove, with about five thousand inhabitants, and ten good churches. Here Conant and Balch and others of the old Dorchester Company settled, in 1630, after the Endicott colony took possession of Salem ; and about forty years later the}' petitioned the General Court to change the name of the town. " because, we being but a small place, it has caused us a constant nickname of Beggarly." The first Britannia works and the first cotton-mill in America were established here. The first naval vessel sent out by the Continental Congress was the Hannah, of Beverly, whose captain was commissioned by Wash- ington, Sept. 2, 1775. So the Rattlesnake flag floated over the harbor of Beverly, under the authority of the United States, was the very first national American naval ensign spread to the breeze. The seafaring occupations of the citizens brought them great gain for many years, and carried them into far foreign waters, but all this has since passed away, and the wharves are crumbling to ruin, and the fish-flakes have vanished from the headlands. In the new regime, it is a place of shoe-factories, full of peaceful activity and comfortable competence. There are forty firms engaged in this business, employ- ing two thousand operatives, and with an annual product of over three millions of dollars. In her " Skipper Ben." Lucy Larcom makes us listen to the " Beverly bells! Kins? to the tide as it ebbs and swells." Let us hear also Miss Larcom's poetical rendering of the geography of our Xorth Shore : " You can ride in an hour or two, if you will, From Halibut Point to Beacon Hill, With the sea beside you all the way, Through the pleasant places that skirt the bay; By Gloucester Harbor and Beverly Beach, Salem, witch. haunted, Xahant's Ions? reach, Blue-bordered Swampscott and Chelsea's wide Marshes, laid bare to the drenching tide, With a glimpse of Suutrus spire in the west, And Maiden hills wrapped in dreamy rest.'' It is at Beverly that the Gloucester Branch leaves the main line and runs eastward along the coast to the tip of Cape Ann. seventeen miles away. This region is one of the great summer-parks of New England, and in fancy \vc must run down through its rare maritime charms, and get a passing glimpse of the great headland of granite. 43 CHAPTER V. CflPE BEVERLY SHORES. MONTSERRAT. PRIDE'S CROSSING. BEVERLY FARMS. WEST M.VXCII KSTEK. MAXCHESTER-HY-THE-SEA. THE MASCONOMO. WILLIAM BLACK. A FIXE MEMORIAL LIBRARY. MAGXOLIA. HTXT'S STUDIO. HAKE'S CHASM. NOKMAX'S WOE. GLOUCESTER. BASS HOCKS. ROCKPOHT. PKJEOX COVE. ANNISQUAM. BT Beverly the Gloucester Branch swings off to the right from the main line and runs to the north-east, out by the famous summer- resorts of Cape Ann, " the land of rocks and roses," with many a glimpse of the wide blue sea, the rugged isles off shore, the villas of the wealthy summer-colonists, and the invincible wildernesses of leclgy hills and sea-blown woods which constitute the greater part of the cape, and have a weird and singular picturesqueness in the eyes of dwellers in more fertile lands. Beverly is just half-way from Boston to Rockport. which is at the extreme end of the cape and of the railroad. 'Pile line of coast eastward begins with seven long miles within Beverly town, with groups of handsome summer-cottages at Hospital Point. Curtis Point, and along to Beverly Farms, a little Riviera, facing the bland south, and blessed with a benign and equable climate. For fully sixty seasons, it lias been a favorite summer-home for well- known Boston families, and during the last twenty years land here has increased in value to an enormous degree. Montserrat station is not far from the old Cove Village, and the beautiful estates on Hospital Point, oecupied by Henry \V. Peabody. A. A. Lawrence, diaries Kndicott, and other gentlemen. The locality was named by Beverly sailors, in the days of her maritime glory, from Montserrat. in Spain. The road to the sea dips away thronirh a deep forest which screen- all vision of the paradise beyond. The shores in the vicinity of the Pride's-Crossinir station are occu- pied by a series of tine summer-estates, witli wide parks, aim facing the blue sea. The pioneer of this delightful region was Mr. ('.(',. I.or- inir. of Boston, in the year 1st I. four year-- before the railroad ^a- built: and soon afterward Robert Treat Paine bought lands here for six thousand dollars, from which over a quarter of a million dollar-' worth has >ince been sold. a\\ this e-tate mm Maud-- Mr-. Tv-on'- 44 house, high up on Eagle Rock, a castellated stone building one hundred and thirty-two feet long, with towers ; and also the costly Queen-Anne villa of Eugene V. R. Thayer. Here also stands the handsome house of Gen. Charles G. Loring, erected by the famous architect, W. R. Emerson. The great castle of the late Henry P. Kidder, the Boston banker, cost two hundred thousand dollars, and its land one hundred thousand more, but the owner did not live to occupy it. The Morse domain contains three villas of the Morse family, and that of Dr. Shat- tuck. Toward Beverly are the estates of Gen. Palfrey, "William Endi- cott, and Charles U. Getting. Beverly Farms is another station dependent mainly on patrician summer-cottagers, whose handsome carriages roll luxuriously over the adjacent roads. Opposite is the great estate of the Hon. Franklin Haven, with its magnificent lawn sloping down toward Great Misery Island. The sea is not visible, but a short ride leads to the beautiful West Beach, with its rugged outer guards of rocky islands. Beverly Farms is the most aristocratic of the North-Shore resorts, for its sum- mer-residents are among the flower of Boston society, and there are no public houses or hotels to break the charm of its exclusiveness. The villas are secluded amid foliage and shrubbery, with compensating glimpses of the sea and its islands. Among the summer-residents are Dr. Oliver Wendell Holmes and his family. A belt of pine woods lies between the railway and the sea, traversed by winding drive-ways leading to the summer-cottages. As the train crosses Chubb's Creek, the frontier between Beverly and Manchester, a beautiful view opens out to sea. with Great Misery Island lying hardly more than a mile away. A little way beyond Beverly Farms, on the shore of a rocky cove, down which one looks to the rugged islands outside, is the station of West Manchester, near the magnificent hill-top chati-an of Col. Henry L. Higginson. and the summer-places of Dr. Bartol. X. B. Mansfield, the Abbotts. Boardmans. and other Boston families. Manchester-by-the-Sea nestles around a snug little harbor on Massachusetts Bay. with its rare variety of scenery, wave-swept promontories and beaches, quiet rural roads winding through hedges and hayticlds and deep overarching forests. a quaint old maritime village, abounding in memorials of the colonial days. Down on the point, seaward from the station, rises the Masconomo House, built in Is 7* by Juniiis Brutus Booth and named for the chieftain who. two hundred and lifty years ai;o. ruled the Indians of tins region. This place is famous for its pastoral performances of "As You Like It "and -A Midsummer Niirht'^ Dream." For Manchester has been a favorite resort for actors. the Booths. Lewises. SHueD'els. Conways. Joseph 45 4(5 Proctor, Mrs. Bowers, Osmond Tearle, Jefferson, Warren, and other players of renown ; and in the old Driver place John Gilbert spent twenty-five or more summers. In front of the Masconomo is the famous Singing Beach (the Old Neck Beach of the Provincial days) , whose sands give forth a musical sound when walked upon or stirred. The only other sands of this kind in the world are in Arabia, Scotland, and Hawaii. Gale's Point makes out from the beach on the south, with several beautiful summer-estates, including that of John L. Bremer. Here also is the Russell-Sturgis estate, and the quaint little Episcopal chapel, so precious to Mr. Sturgis. The far-viewing Eagle Head rises on the north of the beach, near the Towne and Billiard places, and farther along is Dana's (or Graves) Beach, running out to the sharp cliffs of Shark's Mouth. Here Richard H. Dana, sen., built his secluded summer-cottage, fifty years ago, and among these wild scenes the poet of "The Buccaneer" dwelt for many a decade. The shores hereabouts are also described by Prof. E. P. Tenuey, in his singular Thoreau-like novel, "Coronation;" and by Admiral Porter, in his "Allan Dare and Robert le Diablo." On the wild Thunderbolt Rock rises the villa of the late James T. Fields, now occupied by his widow. "What do you think ?" said a villager to Mr. Fields, long ago; "some fool has purchased Thunder- bolt Rock." To whom the genial author made answer: "Yes, I bought it the other day." He named the locality " Manchester-by-the- Sea;" and Dr. Holmes made sport of it by dating his letters, " Beverly - by-the-Depot," and Whittier joined in with the superscription of " Danvers-among-the-Hollyhocks." For Holmes and Whittier, Long- fellow and Bayard Taylor, Miss Jewett, and many another famous author, have been guests here; and also William Black, who wrote, in " Green Pastures and Picadilly :" " First of all we went down to Man- chester, a small, scattered, picturesque watering-place, overlooking Massachusetts Bay, the Swiss-looking cottages of wood dotted down everywhere on the high rocks above the strand. And when the wild sunset had died out of the western skies, the splendid colors had been blinding our sight until we turned for refuge to the dark, intense green of the trees in shadow. we had our chairs out on the veranda up here on the rocks over tin- sea. We heard the splashing of the waves below; we could vaguely make out the line of the land running away out to Cape Cod." The Memorial Library and Grand-Army Hall building was presented to the town in iss? by one of its Boston cottagers, Mr. T. Jefferson Coolidge, once president of the Atchison railroad, and of the Somerset flub. It cost forty-live thousand dollars, and is of seam-faced rough stone, with memorial windows. Mexican-onyx and yellow Numidian- marble panels, a roof suggested by that of Merton-College Library, in old Oxford, a screen made of fragments of mediaeval oak-carving 47 brought from Morlaix, in Brittany, and a picturesque tower. The architect was C. F. Mclviin. Over the arch are Goethe's words : Choose well, your choice is brief and yet endless. Space fails to tell of the lovely drives through the perfumed aisles of the Essex Woods, rich in mosses and ferns, and in vistas of flicker- in?; light, and the music of the pine-trees ; of the many rambles along the resounding shore, over breezy headlands and surf-swept beaches; of the beautiful villas and grounds of the Wiggles worths and Curtises and Ilemenways, and other noble New-England families ; of the quaint old village, on its secluded river-harbor, with its tall white churches and garden-border ' colonial houses. The first of the summer-cottagers here (after Dana) were Kits-ell Sturgis. jun., and President Billiard; and (lie development of this wild and picturesque strand into a maritime Bdgravia has -since gone fur- ward amain, until the valuation of the town has grown in t \\eiity- tive years from eight hundred thousand dollars to nearly four million dollars. The venerable Ifev. Dr. ISartol. the chief mover in the development of Manchester as a sumnier-re-ort. said : The men once here had the hoe in one hand and the gun in the other. The earth-work-, -till re- main on (ilass Head and Norton's Neck, behind which they lay ready for the tight. Next. Manchester was a li-hcry. Sixty -ail of vessels, law and small, went from this port. The wharves and stoue steps 48 for the landing of their freight may still be seen, and the old houses, decayed or transformed, in which it was stored. Lastly, Manchester, in our day, has become a splendid watering-place, known as such throughout the United States." Magnolia, one of the most charming of our Massachusetts-coast summer-resorts, lies about a league to the southward of its railway station, on a rocky point projecting into the sea, with rugged dirt's on one side, perpetually fringed with surf, and on the other the beautiful sandy curve of Crescent Beach, with its opportunities for sea-bathing. Public carriages meet the trains at Magnolia station, and wind down an enchanting little wood-road, amid mingled perfumes of the sea and the pines, and with many glimpses of the wide blue hori/on towards Europe. The obscure little fishing-hamlet of Kettle Cove has within a quarter of a century given place to this lovely summer-village, witli its score of quaint Elizabethan, Dutch-colonial, and neo-colonial cottages, a half-dozen hotels and boarding-houses (Hesperus, Ocean-Side, Oak- drove, Crescent-Beach, etc.), and a picturesque chapel of gray lleld- stone and rough-cast plaster, low and broad, with a huge open fireplace and a memorial window representing the Annunciation. At Magnolia, William M. Hunt, the greatest of American artists, altered an old barn into a studio (in 1877), which he christened ''The Hulk," and in whose great loft he painted some famous pictures. Here lie exemplified his motto, "Draw firm and be jolly;" and his disciples gathered around him to hear the inimitable " Talks on Art." Among the people who used to come to Magnolia in the old days were Freeman Clarke, Susan Hale, Helen Knowlton, Pumpelly, Bynner, Cranch, Glau- gcngigl, and many other famous persons. A little way from Magnolia is the wonderful Uafe's Chasm, a trench one hundred and seventy-five feet long, and sixty feet deep, and from six to ten feet wide, cut by Nature out of the live; rock of the clitt', and opening directly into the bay. When a heavy sea is on. the breakers crash into this long recess with enormous force, roaring like heavy artillery, and (lying upward in sheets of milk-white foam. In 1S7!) a young lady was swept away by these tremendous surge-, and met her death. The sad event is commemorated by an iron cross. Off the point, and joined to it by a bar at low tide, is the hunv black rock of Norman's Woe. where tradition says that Kiehard Norman, of (Uoueester, was wrecked, in li!S(l. It is more 50 "The Wreck of the Hesperus," written on a dark December night of 1839, and first published by Park Benjamin, in the Xew-York "World." " And fast through the midnight dark and drear, Through the whistling sleet and snow, Like a sheeted ghost, the vessel swept Towards the reef of Norman's Woe." There are numberless footpaths winding away into the deep woods that border the shore, and passing through delicious jungles of berry - bushes and wild flowers. It is about two miles to the tangled swamp which bears the glorious maynolia ylauca flowers, beautifully white and pure, and rich in a sweet Florida fragrance. The plants grow to a height of ten feet, and this is the only New-England locality where they are native. They were first discovered by Cotton Mather while on his way from Salem to "the old sea-brown fishing-town" of Gloucester. The strange penetrating perfume of the Southern flowers arrested his attention, while driving along the road, and he descended from the carriage and hunted through the thickets until he found their creamy petals. Cape Ann, for centuries the nursery of hardy seamen for the Massachusetts fleets, with its lonely and arid hills and surf -beaten cliffs, its famous sea-ports, its vast granite-quarries, and its rosary of summer-villages, is without doubt one of the most thoroughly interest- 'ng regions in the old Bay State. The scenes of Sarah Onie Jewett's 'A Marsh Island," and Elizabeth Stuart Phelps's "An Old Maid's Para- dise," are laid here; and the rare natural beauties of the scene are set forth in Lucy Larcom's volume, "Wild Roses of ("'ape Ann." The history and legendry of two hundred and eighty years drape every headland with Imperishable charms, worthy enrichments of localities so dowered by the grandeur of ocean scenery. A few years ago the artists discovered the great capabilities of Cape Ann, and its resemblance in some respect to the coast of Brittany, that paradise of painters. Winslow Homer lived with the light-keeper on Ten-Pound Island, and found his inspiration in and about. Glouces- ter Harbor; Picknell, at Annisqnam, founded a new school of art ; and William M. Hunt and his enthusiastic pupils had their studio at Mag- nolia, As Gen. James Grant Wilson says: --The pure and bracing air of Cape Ann is to a long-pent-'ip city-man a cordial of almost incredible virtue." Gloucester is a quaint old city of twenty-two thousand inhab- itants, clinging to the rock-ribbed hills near the end of the cape, and conquering all seas by the heroism of its mariners. You may wander along its busy streets, and note the handsome city-hall, with the monu- ment to the soldiers and sailors of the Secession War: the picturesque 61 A ,-- 52 new high-school; the Sawyer Free Library, with its snug reading- rooms ; the great Catholic Church of St. Anne, a favorite shrine of the Portuguese and provincial fishermen ; the crowded fish-flakes on Fort Point; and the little beach near the Pavilion Hotel, looking out to Stage Rocks and Ten-Pound Island. The gallant Champlain, with his company of French mariners, was the first man of white skin to explore the coast hereaway, somewhere about the year 1(505 ; and he gave to Gloucester Harbor the pleasant title of Le Beau Port. Capt. John Smith visited the cape in 1G14, and he gave it the name of Tragabigzanda, in honor of a fair Turkish prin- OLD WHARVES AT GLOUCESTER. cess who had befrknded him many years before while a captive to the Moslems in Constantinople. But Prince Charles of England thought it worthy of a more Christian title, and gave it the name of his royal mother. Anne of Denmark, the wife of .lames I., and the tirst "queen of (ireat Britain. France, and Ireland." Classic writers tell us that the inventor of salt-fish was honored by a statue in the Athenian market-place, as a benefactor of Creece. When the Pilgrims importuned King James for a colonial patent, he asked them what prolits miujht arise from the projected settlement. " Fishing," said one. To whom the majesty of England made answer : 53 "So God have my soul, 'tis an honest trade; 'twas the Apostles' own calling." By the extension of these wonderful fisheries, Gloucester has become the chief port in all the world for this business, and employs upwards of five thousand men in its fleets. The noble apostrophe of Edmund Burke, uttered in the English Parliament, in 1774, is as true now as then : " No sea but what is vexed by their fisheries, no climate that is not witness of their toils ; neither the perseverance of Holland, nor the activity of France, nor the dexterous and firm sagacity of English en- terprise, ever carried their most perilous mode of hardy industry to the extent to which it has been pursued by this recent people." " Wild tiro the waves which lash the reefs along St. George's Bank, Cold on the short; of Labrador the fog lies white and dank; Through storm and wave and blinding mist, stout are the hearts which man The fishing-smacks of Marblehead, the sea-boats of (Jape Ann. " Tile cold Xorth light and wintry sun glare on their icy forms, Bent grimly o'er their straining lines, or wrestling with the storms; Free as the winds they drive before, rough as the waves they roam, They laugh to scorn the slaver's threat against their rocky home." John (,'. W/iittier. Gloucester was bombarded by the British sloop-of-war Fnlcmi in 1775, and many of the houses received hard royalist cannon-balls. But the Cape-Ann minute-men held the town and prevented the enemy from landing. The good town was -incorporated in 1(!4L>, under the name of Gi.orcKSTKR, commemorating the old cathedral-city of England, from which many of the first settlers had come. Bass Rocks are about a mile and a half from town, near Good- Harbor Beach, looking fairly out on the resounding Atlantic. Close by, the white surges sweep round the well-named little Salt Island and Milk Island; and farther out in the north-east are the great light-house towers on Thatcher's Island, "the eyes of Cape Ann.'' There are about fifty summer-villas in this vicinity, occupied by families from New York, Philadelphia, and oilier cities. Good-Harbor Beach is a beautiful crescent of white sand, buttressed by huge piles of rock at either end; and an adjacent shallow inlet has \\armer salt-water for bathers who dread the shock and chill of the breakers. In the vicinity you may also visit the Hocking Stone, or Pebbly Beach, or ISriar Neck. or Norman's Woe, or I-Yrnwood Lake, or Kockport, or you may sail and fish in Gloucester Harbor, or on the sea ont-ide. Edwin Percy W hippie said : '-The primal advantage of the situat ion is that the south and south-weM winds blow direct from the ocean: whereas in many localities Ho-e to the sea the only si-.-i-bive/.e is, a- at Boston, from the north-ea-t. 1 have been repeatedly burnt and half suffocated by a wit lierinii' south wind from the land, in places where the broad ocean was stretched out mockingly In-fore me. and only givinii 1 an ocean flavor when it \\a- chillinirly nor-nor-eaM.' To an 54 ordinary July observer, the principal productions of this portion of Cape Ann appear to be rocks and roses. Hence it is, I suppose, that the air in the hot season is so sweet, pure, and invigorating." Eastern Point, which lies between the outer harbor of Gloucester and the open sea, is bordered with rocky shores and little beaches of white sand, and affords enchanting views of Gloucester, Manchester, Marblehead, the deep-blue hills of Essex and Milton, and the far-sur- rounding seas. At the end is Eastern-Point Light; and on one side appear the ruins of a fort, built during the Secession War to guard the port of Gloucester. Among the other attractions of this fonr-hundred- acre peninsula are the oak-trees, massed in a pleasant grove, and a large pond of clear fresh water, fragrant with many lilies. The entire domain was purchased in 1888 by a syndicate of Boston and Western GATE HOt'SE, EASTKHN POINT. capitalists, and opened as a summer-resort, with an entrance-lodge built of field-stone, four or live miles of tine roads, a handsome hotel (the Beachcroft), and a number of architecturally attractive cottages. No house nmy be built here to cost less than live thousand dollars, and no boarding-houses are allowed. Sea-walls, pier, and esplanade add to the new attractions of this patrician marine colony. There is hardly a better excursion on the Xew-Knirland shore than that "around the cape," a distance of perhaps fifteen miles, by admira- ble roads, passing from Gloucester by Bass Uocks and Louie Beach to Kockport and Pigeon Cove, and then to Lanesville and Bay View, Annisquam and Kiverdale, and back to Gloucester again. Rockport, the end of the railway, is a singular and interesting little sea-port, among the rocky hills, crowned with imperishable 65 harvests of bo\vldors. It is at the head of Sandy Bay, where the iron- bound shores are indented into a sharp angle, one shore running nearly north and the other eastward toward Straitsinouth Island and Kockport Light. The haven is thus left open to the wild north-east gales ; and the United-States Government has been for some years endeavoring to construct a shelter here by building a colossal granite breakwater, nine thousand feet long, from Avery's Kock north-westward by Abner'H l>edge toward Andrew's Point (near the Ocean-View House). If it is ever completed, it will have cost many millions of dollars, and will make one of the best and most useful harbors on the New-England coast. The village rambles oddly over the rugged hills, with winding streets, and a multitude of little wooden cottages, a ruined cotton-mill of granite, and a lonely Dock Square, from which a narrow lane leads out on the point between the two emvalled havens, with scores of ancient gray fish-houses, boats of all kinds, drying nets, anchors on the retired list, and redolent fish-flakes. Against the high end of this interesting promontory the sea breaks heavily, and its munnurings thrill through the quiet streets. The town has a population of about four thousand, with a considerable fleet engaged in the cod and mackerel fisheries, and in the carrying-trade along the coast. And if one will take the trouble to climb Tool's Hill, or Pigeon Hill, lie can overlook a hundred leagues of sea. and great expanses of inland country, witli the distant bine crowns of Monadnock. Agamenticus. and the I'ncanoonnc Mountains. The Congregational Church is nearly one hundred and tif'y years old: and in the War of Isli' its tower was shattered by a cannon-ball from a marauding British frigate. Two and a half miles southward, by the road passing Whale Cove and Loblolly Cove, and near the two tall li^ht-hoiises on Thatcher'^ Island, is Cape Hedire. with IVbble-stoiie Hcach. where the famous IVnnett-Mackay commercial cahle ua- landed, from the -team-hip Far iilmi. in lss|. Heyond -tretrhe- Lniiu' Beach, a half-mile of smooth hard -and. making a iroo.l drive at low tide. 56 Thatcher's Island commemorates Anthony Thatcher and his wife, the only persons saved when their pinnace was wrecked hereaway, back in the year 1G35, what time the Rev. John Aver}', minister-elect of Marble- head, and eight other persons were lost in the sea. In 1771 the Pro- vincial government bought the island, and some years later a light- house was erected here. In 1801 the United States built on this lonely strand two colossal granite light-houses, each one hundred and sixty - five feet high, and visible over many leagues of dangerous sea. Rockport is the end of the railway ; and stages connecting with the trains run thence a mile and a half to Pigeon Cove, traversing a high gallery -like road over the sea, and passing a line of great granite- quarries. Pigeon Cove, on the remotest seaward tip of Cape Ann, high over the rocky cliffs whose bases are incessantly scourged by the murmur- ing ocean, is one of the most charming of summer-resorts, rich in its cool and bracing air, and with views of amazing grandeur, extending from Thatcher's Island and Straitsmouth far around to the dim shores of New Hampshire and Maine. The high plateau is covered with a dense evergreen forest, traversed by admirable roads, and dotted here and there with the little cottages of summer-residents ; and overlook- ing the wide expanse of sea are the three hotels. the Ocean-View. Limvood, and Pigeon-Cove. The origin of the name Pigeon Cove is said to be that many years ago a man named John lived there who was famous for making pies. and was known as Pie John; and the hill was spoken of as Pie-John Hill, which gradually shortened into Pigeon Hill. Its summer charms were discovered in 1840 by Ilk-hard II. Dana. sen., who passed a part of the summer in a fisherman's house hard by, and was followed the next season by William Cullen Bryant. In later years, it become the favorite resort of the Rev. Dr. E. II. Chapin. the Nestor of rnivcrs- alisin ; the younger Dana (he of '-Two Years before the Mast") : Dr. Bartol and James Freeman Clarke ; Thomas Starr King and Henry W. Bellows; Edwin Percy Whipple. the essayist; Sara Jewett, the actress; and scores of well-known artists. The best of the cottages is the new stone i-hfitcaii of John M. Way. of Boston, out near the northern point of the cape, with its tall tower overlooking the blue Atlantic plain. Near Pigeon Cove is the " witch house." built two centuries ago. ac- cording to tradition, by two young men named Wheeler, whose sister had been brought under suspicion of witchcraft, at Salem. Fleeing from the ill-omened town at night, they rowed a small boat round Cape Ann, and made here a safe home for the persecuted maiden. Not fur away is the house which was built by the sturdy yeoman (Jott. in the year HI4<). and is still occupied by his descendants. The drives to Halibut Point and Follv Cove, and the rambles 57 through the Cathedral Woods and over Pigeon Hill, are full of interest and diversity. And if one's thoughts are inclined toward bathing, there are great hollows in the rock}' shore, guarded by lines, and affording opportunities for enlivening contact with salt-water. When one tires of the sea, there are delightful rambles through the ancient woods and picturesque glens inland, along grassy old cart-paths and woocl-roads, extending even from Kockpoit to Anuisquam. Bryant said that " no place of resort by the seaside in New England lias such forest attractions as Pigeon Cove. Full of pleasant paths running in every direction, the woods here look like a beautiful rural temple. 1 have never visited any woodlands more lovely." The sportsman who has trolled for blue-lish in the bay. or caught ten-pound cod from Ocean Blntt', or shot ducks off Annisquam, or sailed along the outer sea in a swift yacht, has enjoyed some of the best phases of coast-life. It is about four miles from Pigeon Cove to Lanesville, over a noble sea-viewing road, and by the bead of Folly Cove, fringed with spray- swept rocks. The embowered Willow Uoad will call for a pleased attention here; and the quaint little harbor below the village, pro- tected by high stone breakwaters, and sheltering the vessels of the Lanesville Granite Company. The road follows the bold shore to the south-west for about a mile to Bay View, the port and village created by the Cape-Ann Granite Company, whose stone has been used for the Boston post-ollicc. the West-Point Military Academy, the Scott monument at Washington, and elsewhere. On the sea-viewing hill near this hamlet are the handsome estates of Gen. Benjamin F. Butler and Col. Jonas II. French, two stone houses, amid beautiful grounds. The north shore from Ipswich to Portsmouth is visible from thence, and the long promontory of Davis Neck projects into the sea just, below. About a mile from Bay View the road reaches Annisquam. a well-known summer-resort. Annisquam is on a high, rugged promontory between the lovely inlet of Lobster Cove and the openings of Sqiiam River, where it pours its tides into the northern sea. In the lee of this hiirh. rocky rampart. around the little harbor, nestle the old-time houses and sea-blown trees of the hamlet, for so many years a favorite haunt of artists. Pickliell, Hayden. ('ranch. P.oyden, Bolton Jones, and others. who lind tin- region inexhaustible in its bcaiitie-. of Nature. 'In old time- it \\a-- known as W<>iin the south: and when the frigates lay off the southern exit, the privateersmen fled seaward across Ipswich Bav. CHAPTER VI. ESSEX WEXIIAM LAKE. ESSEX, AND Rri'rs CIIOATE. IPSWICH. ROWLEY. DOIMKU ACADEMY. INDIAN HILL. Bl'T wo liave left the express-train on tiie main line at Beverly over long, and it behooves us to fly back to it on the whiles of the broomstick of the traditional Essex-County witches, and fare away on our route to the great northern beaches. We swing along the shore of East River; past the high reservoir of the Salem water-works, resembling one of McClellan's Virginian earth-works; and in sight of the famous YVenham Lake. Close to the village gleams its silvery expanse, more widely renowned than any other American pond of similar si/e, for thence were taken, for many years, the great blocks of ice that helped so far to make life endurable in India and Cuba, and the Gulf States, and other remote torrid regions. The name of \Venham was a familiar and grateful sound in Martinique and Alla- habad and Cairo, and scores of places where Boston and New York had scarcely been heard of. Wenham extends its fair and fertile acres along the track and far away on either side, with good roads winding out among the comfort- able farms, and rounded hills and silvery lakes diversifying the fair country-side. The picture drawn by a colonist centuries ago is still essentially true : " Weiiham is a delicious paradise: it abounds in rural pleasures: and I would choose it above all other to\vns in America to dwell in. The lofty trees on each side of it are a sullicienl -hclter from the winds: and the warm sun so kindly ripens both the fruits and (lowers, as if the spring, the summer, and the autumn had agreed together to thrust winter out of doors." A fe\v miles to the eastward, by the Ks-ex Branch, leavinir the main line at \Veiiham. i- the ancient maritime hamlet of Essex, the Indian < In 1,/n-cn. and in colonial day< known a> the Second I'ari-h of Ipswich. In the old times thi- salty town was famous for it- ve--el-. which were among the stanche-t and liand-omc-t in the American tleets. In one of them Dr. Kane made a peri Km- voyage into t lie lonely North, toward the Pole. The ship-yard- are but little u-ed now. during the dormant period of American commerce. The railwav ha- -tat ion- at Hamilton village. \Vooi!bnr\ '-. K--ex 60 Falls, Essex, and Conomo, the latter being at the eastern end of the town, near the salt-marshes and the sea. The chief landscape beauty of Essex is found around Chebacco Pond, whose picturesquely diversified shores are covered with fine old woodlands. Here John Whipple built the Chebacco House, on the old Knowlton farm, just before the Civil War, intending it for a sum- mer-hotel ; but picnics and dinner-parties sought this delightful region in such numbers that the house was finally reserved for them. Essex River, deep and narrow, winds away from Chebacco Pond toward the sea, and opens out into the broad lagoon inside of Castle Neck. Amid these sea-tides rises the high and bare Choate (or Hog) Island, three hundred acres, with three farm-houses, in one of which was born Rufus Choate, the great orator, jurist, and statesman. A narrow arm of the sea flows around the island, and above one of its influent tidal creeks rises the ancient Choate mansion, built nearly two centuries ago, low-studded, bound together with a visible and pon- derous skeleton of beams and rafters, and weather-stained by the sea- storms of two hundred winters. Oft' to the southward the view from the narrow windows sweeps over leagues of melancholy marshes and salt lagoons, and rests on the rocky promontories of Cape Ann. From this delicious island Choate could look westward across the salt-marshes and see a dozen famous towns of Essex South, their spires relieved against the dark hills beyond ; or northward, to the blue mountains of the Maine coast; or eastward, beyond the white and curving sand-beaches, to the long and level horizon-line of the northern ocean, stretching away in vague and impressive immensity. It was here, during his periodic summer-retreats, that the great orator caught the inspiration for his fascinating (and now, alas, long-lost) lecture on 'The Romance of the Sea." Years afterward, when in the Senate of the United States, fighting with Henry Clay and James Buchanan, he wrote to his children here, lovingly telling them where the best play- grounds were to be found, and pithily counselling them to "be pleas- ant, brave, and fond of books." And then, with a warm outburst of local pride, he adds : ' Give me the sun of Essex. One half-hour under those cherished buttonwoods is worth a month under these insutterable fervors." During the last war with Great Britain, the bay oft' Essex was often visited by American cruisers and British frigates, their white sails Hashing up from the far eastern horizon, as they swept in from the distant outer seas. Hither came the noble English war-ships, the Ti-ix-ii.ox and Slnn>i>o. "sitting like two swans upoii the water," as the village legends tell. 61 After our brief excursion into ancient Essex, we may go forwan again on the main line through the pleasant fields of Hamilton, whicl was named in 1793, in honor of Alexander Hamilton, at that time lillinj. the office of first Secretary of the United-States Treasury. In latei times the little hamlet has been famous as the birthplace and home ol that brilliant writer, Mary Abigail Dodge, widely known as "Gai Hamilton." It is a pleasant farming-town of about eight hundrei inhabitants, anciently known as Ipswich Hamlets. OH' to the left w< may see the cottages and cabins of Asbury Grove, a famous place foi Methodist feasts of tabernacles, where thousands of families gathei every summer. A brief run farther leads to quaint old Ipswicti. " I love to think of old Ipswich town Old Ipswich town in the East countree, Whence, on the. tide, you can lloat down Through the long wait-grass to the wailing sea." Ipswich is one of the ancient and legend-haunted towns of New England, still rural and picturesque, and full of quaint beauty am comeliness. It was the first point in Essex County visited by whiti men, when Capt. Edward Ilardie and Nicholas Ilobson came hither, ii 1(511, and were kindly received and entertained by the Agawam Indians, Few they were, and weak, even then, for some years before the trilx had been nearly annihilated by Passaconaway's braves in a great bat tit on Plum Island, when a thousand warriors died on the Held of honor, The traditions abide here of gallant old John Kndieott, surveying the town bounds, and being entertained at the Uev. John Norton's par- sonage, bu n t in l(>;'>r>, and the venerable house still standing on Easl Street (near the station), and where Mather and Kndieott and Mogu Megone were also visitors; of the English regicides, hiding in a secret chamber in the Applcton house (now Mrs. \Vilhelmina \Vildes's), on Market Street, quite near Meeting-House Green ; of George YVhitetield. preaching the Gospel from the summit of a rock that is still shown, close by the church, imprinted also with a foot-print of the Devil: ol John Procter, handed in Salem as a witch, although all Ip^wicli pleaded for his release; of the old whippinir-po^t and pillory, whose site is still shown: of the venerable house of liiehard Saltoii^tall. an ancestor of the Hon. Leveret! Saltonstall : of the dii-ky Ariadne "o| Heart-break Hill, who died of loniriiiir for an absent sailor-lad. 02 The Pilgrims of Plymouth made an attempt to settle on this site, but were repelled by the "bitter cold "of the place; and it was left for the Boston Puritans to found a settlement here "(being the best place in the land for tillage and cattle) , lest an enemy, finding it, should possess and take it from us." So Gov. Winthrop sent his trusty son John, and twelve yeomen, to occupy this strategic point, and head off the French or the Dutch. The houses of these pioneers were lowly thatched huts, lighted within by pine-knots; and in those doleful days wolves were so numerous that parents would not allow their children to go to church without men to guard them. Cotton Mather said that the people of the church in Ipswich were such illuminated Christians that the pastors had not so much disciples as judges ; and Gov. John Winthrop once walked all the way from Boston hither "to exercise among them the spirit of prophecy." At the time Gen. Washington visited Ipswich, on his presidential tour, October 30, 1789, Parson Cleveland was among those who went to pay his respects to him. Approaching with his cocked hat under his arm, Washington recognized him and said: "Put on your hat, parson, and I will shake hands with you." The parson replied: "I cannot wear my hat in your presence, general, when I think what yon have done for this country." " You did as much as I," said the general.- " No, no," replied the parson. " Yes." said the general, "you did what you could, and I've done no more." Charming poems about Ipswich have been written by Harriet Pres- cott Spoftbrd. to the south-west, a little over a mile distant. The town has nearly two thousand acres of -alt-mar-h. productive of great quantities of hay: and ii al-o po--c--e- sonic twelve thousand apple-trees. The tir-t settlement occurred herein Mils, and the name of the place was that of its Mrs] pastor's Knirli-h vicarage. In --The \Vonder-working 1'rovideiice of Sion's Savior in Ne\\ Knirland" it is recorded of IJowley'- pioneer-: They consj>ic(] iif about thive-score families. Their people, beinu' \ ery indii-t ri<>u- every way. -oon I milt as many houses, and were the tir-t people t hat -H upon making 1 doth in thi- Western World: for which end the\ built a fulling-mill and caused their little one- to be very diligent in spinning cotton-wool, many of them having been clothier- in Knuhiml." 64 From this little industrial seed, therefore, sprang the Lawrences and Lowells, the Birmingham^ and Selmas, of our country, with their myriads of spindles and looms ; while poor old Rowley, bereft of her dowry, is left to lonely meditation on the edge of her marshes. As the train rushes across the sea-meadows beyond Rowley, the spectral sand-hills of Plum Island cut the horizon on the right, with wide expanses of the blue sea visible bej'oncl, and hundreds of hay- cocks dotting the level green expanse of the marsh, like brown wig- wams. When the line crosses the Parker River, you may catch a glimpse, far off to the left, of a little belfry, rising above the elm-trees. This is the famous Dummer Academy, more than a score of whose pupils have become congressmen of the United States. Here stretched the estate of the wealthy and liberal Richard Dum- mer, one of the first settlers in Newbury. His grandson, William DummerAcad Dummer, was for many years tin- popular lieutenant-governor and acting-governor of the province, and when he died, in 1701, he be- queathed his mansion (built 1730) and his farm of three hundred and thirty acres for the establishment of a grammar-school, which, in those days before the English grammar was known, meant a school for the study of (Ireek and Latin. So in 170.'! the academy was opened. Fry, Tenney, Hinckley, Osgood, and the MeClarys (one of whom was killed at Hunker Hill), and other Revolutionary ollicers, were students here. Here studied Tobias Lear, the private secretary and eor.iident ial friend of Washington; and here, side by side with ('apt. Richard Derby, of the navv, the famous Com. Kdward I'reble conned his drowsy lessons; and Samuel Osyood, postmaster-general of the I'liiied Stales; and Thcoph'lus Parsons, our most eminent jurist; and Senator Rufns Khiir, minister to England; and mauv another illustrious man. The, academy-boys of today stroll peacefully over the wide pastures, or from the hill-tops look out over the winding rivers, the picturesque salt-marshes, and the distant sea ; or find an acadcmus in the magnifi- cent avenues of elms near by; or sail down the Parker, by Oldtown Hill and under bridges and through leagues of salt-marsh, and out by Cape Merrill, to the salty tides. The Longfellow house ( deserted now for twenty-live years ) stands among rich smooth fields, near the head of tide-water on the Parker River, marking the ancient home of the ancestors of America's poet. Back among the hills to the west is Indian Hill, the picturesque old home of the late Maj. Ben : Perley Poore, often called '-the Abbotsford of New England," crowded with historical souvenirs, the chandelier that hung in Independence Hall when the immortal Declaration was signed, drums whose rat-a-plan sounded through the volleys at Bunker Hill, the carved marble mantle from (.'apt. -(Jen. Peter Stuyvesant's house at New Amsterdam, the pulpit from which \Vhilcticld preached, documents signed by Xapoleon Bonaparte. Sir Walter Scott, and others, and many other rare curiosities. Beyond the Parker-River meadows, rich in Holland scenery which the deft pencil of Cuyp or Unysdacl might have portrayed, the lonely Knight's Mills are passed, and then, on the left, the three poplar-trees that mark the location of the Devil's Den: then the old Boston turn- pike, and the red powder-house of old Newbury. far oil' in the liehls: and then the train sweep-; around through a ccinture of cemeteries and reaches N'ewburyport. 66 CHAPTER VII. AN ANCIENT SEA-BLOWN CITY. ITS EXTINCT COMMERCE. JOPPA. HIGH STREET. LOVELY ENVIRONS. PLUM ISLAND. SALISBURY BEACH. THE MERRLMAC RIVER. AMESBURY. NEWBURYPORT has been happily designated by Joseph Cook as i; the ancient sea-blown city at the mouth of the Merrimac ;" and it is indeed a quaint and dreamy old place, full of memorials of the distant past. It is probably the most antique town in New England in appearance, for it has been content to drift along in the good old ways of the fathers, until a few years ago, when, through the exertions of its live business-men, it took on a new energy, and became one of the liveliest towns in Eastern Massachusetts. Junius Henri Browne reported Newburyport to be like " some of the towns of old England, Chester, Shrewsbury, Lincoln, which have ceased to cherish expectations, whose importance is in the past." It is a place of simple habits and old-time virtues, where frugality and sobriety supplant the anxiety and restlessness that so greatly cloud many lives. It has been well said that " Newburyport is at once the most American and least American of all American towns." In this quiet river-haven there are many old salts who know the currents of Labrador and the Straits of Belle Isle, the reaches below Calcutta, and the tides of the Baltic, as well as the streets that wind away under the trees from Belleville to Joppa. But the maritime industry is wellnigh extinct; the fishermen lag superfluous about the crumbling wharves ; and the great ship-yards, in which the Drrad- nanf/ltt and scores of her sister clippers were built, and many a stout war-ship of the United-States Navy, show hardly a sign of life. The town had several distinct fleets, for whaling, mackercling. the Porto- Bello sugar-trade, the Labrador fisheries, the Russia trade, etc. The port was of such consequence that it was closely blockaded by British frigates in the War of 1*12, hovering around the river's mouth like noisy eagles, and occasionally treating the lower part of the town to a shower of solid shot. There is no liner thoroughfare in America than High Street, a broad and graceful avenue running along near the crest of the hill on which the city lies, almost parallel with the river, overarched with mag- nilicent trees, bordered bv colonial mansions, and stretching away for 67 three miles, from Deer Island to Oldtown Green. The home of Harriet Prescott Spott'ord is an ancient road-side tavern on Deer Island, near the lofty and graceful suspension-bridge, the first one built in America, and within sight of Hawkswood, the whilom estate of the literary Fletcher family, and Laurel Hill, where Sir Edward Thornton, the British ambassador, spent several summers, in a castellated house look- ing over the distant city to the outer sea; and "The Laurels," and Artichoke River, inspircrs of Appleton Brown's delicious paintings and Whittier's verse ; and Po Hill, of whose view Bayard Taylor said : "For quiet beauty it excels anything I have ever seen." Not far away (at the end of a branch railroad from Newburyport) is the pros- perous manufacturing-village of Amesbury, witli the home of John G. Whittier, the Walter Scott of all this region of legendary and poetic lore, who has thus beautifully described the seaward view from the neighboring hill : " Its, windows Hashing to tin- sky, Beneath a thousand roofs of In-own, Far down the vale, my friend and I Beheld the old and quiet town ; The L'hnstly sails that out at sea Flapped their while winirs of mystery '['lie lieu-lies trl imineriiiir in the sun, And the low wo..ded rapes that run Into the sea-mist north and smith : The sand-Muffs at the river's nmuth ; 'Pile swinuiiiL.' rhain-l'rid;.'e. an 1. af.ir, The foam-line of the harbor-bar." Nor should the pilgrim omit to drive l.y ti Poore's Indian-Hill Farm; or :il<>n-- tin- \\oudrr round DummtT Academy: <>r up the river-road or through the quaint maritime/''/" "/;/ of .lo buryport looking out aero-- it- sea-wall to the 68 rich in the gray old houses of the fishermen, huddled sociably around the narrow grassy lanes. On State Street, the main business-thoroughfare (the old Boston turnpike, ending here at the Merrimac), is the Wolfe Tavern, one of the best hotels of the town. Capt. William Davenport commanded the Essex-North volunteers in the Conquest of Canada, and when he re- turned from the Plains of Abraham, in 17G2, lie opened a public house here, and named it in honor of his old commander, the gallant Gen. Wolfe. In the ancient mansion on State Street now occupied by the Public Library, Washington and Lafayette and tin. \r suites wore entertained in princely style. The venerable Old South Church contains the remains of the great evangelist, (icorge Whitetield. in a cenotaph of Egyptian and Italian marble. On High Street is the stately old mansion of Lord Timothy Dexter, whose many eccentricities have passed into history. Here also is the house of William Wheelwright, in whose honor hron/.e statues have been raised in Buenos Ayres and Valparaiso. On High Street, near the Bartlett Mall, stands the best statue of (ieorge Wash- ington in existence, a heroic bron/e figure, designed by J. Q. A. Ward, and presented to the city by one of its absent children. Mr. I). I. Tenney, of New York. Among other natives and sometime residents of the dear old town were William Lloyd Garrison, the liberator, whose birthplace is shown, 09 back of the Old South Church ; Caleb dishing, the diplomat and jurist; Gen. A. W. Greeley, the Arctic voyager; Prof. C. C. Felton, the learned President of Harvard College; and Chief-Justice Samuel Sewall, whose diary reproduces colonial days so admirably. The incidents connected with the more than a quarter of a millen- nium of history pertaining to this port, the visits of Talleyrand and Louis Philippe, the Great Eire of 1811, the British blockades, and the silver-mining excitement, cannot even be alluded to here. The roads in the vicinity lead through a great variety of scenery, from the lonely cart-tracks to the marsh-islands and the neighboring beaches of Plum Island and Salisbury, and the pleasant rural highways of old Xewbury. Tu this interesting town, down near the Parker Kiver, and close to the picturesque Lower Green, stands the oldest tavern in America, opened by Jonathan Poor in 1(!40, and for centuries run as a roadside inn. The horse-cars lead in little more than half an hour, through the quaint streets of maritime Joppa. and acro-s the marshes which over- look the mouth of the Merrimac and the broad Ipswich meadows, to the weird sand-dunes of Plum Island, where the ocean beat- with an unceasing roar. Here stands a hotel which was opened as far back as the year isoil. and lias been enlarged and modernix.ed within a few years, since the island ha- become a place of -mnmer-coitai, r e- and vernal joys. This locality command- m-pirin^ views over the marshes, laden with odorous salt-uTa--. and dappled with silvery pools of water, while in the background are the -pire- and tower- of NYwburyport. as ell'ective from tin- point of view a- an Italian coast-city: and in the fai'ther di-tance. as bine a- the sea. ri-e the beautiful rounded hills ,,f Ip-wich and ( ildtou n and Ame-bury. ( >ne of Harriet P'-e-cotl Spof- ford's line-t stories. "The South Breaker." refers to a locality at the month of the Merrimac on this ^Innv. and -he ha- also written no better poem than In-ide Plum I-Iand :" 70 " Yet long as summer breezes blow, Waves murmur, rushes quiver, Those warbling echoes everywhere Will haunt Plum-Island River! " The downward trend of the beach is so steep, and the undertow so strong, that sea-bathing may not be undertaken here ; but in the tidal lagoon called the Basin, opening from the river, still-water bathing is practicable. Around this shore, and towards the light-houses, extends a colony of simply-built cottages, with a pier at which the steamboat from Newburyport stops, and a singular steam-railway. Plum Island stretches away to the southward for many miles, a perilous shore, sor- rowfully renowned for fatal wrecks, down to the Bluft's, at the mouth of Ipswich liiver. Public carriages run several times daily from Newburyport to Salis- bury Beach ; and steamboats also ply on the river, from the city to the southern end of the beach, where horse-cars may be taken for other points. Salisbury Beach will be forever memorable as the scene of Wliittier's "The Tent on the Beach," in which James T. Fields, Baj'ard Taylor, and the venerable poet himself encamped one summer, narrat- ing the legends of the surrounding country and sea. Here they " Pitched their white tent where sea-winds blew. Behind them, marshes, seamed and crossed With narrow creeks, and flower-embossed, Stretched to the dark oak wood, whose leafy arms Screened from the stormy east the pleasant inland farms. " At full of tide their bolder shore Of sun-bleached sand the waters beat; At ebb, a smooth and glistening floor They touched with liuht, receding feet. Northward, a green bluff broke the chain Of sand-hills; southward stretched a plain 71 Of salt-grass, with a river winding down Bail- whitened, and beyond, the steeples of the town." Nothing can be added to this singing description, save to say that the bluffs are now dotted with summer-cottages, occupied mainly by families from inland Essex. There are also a few small inns ; and a horse-railroad runs down to the mouth of the Merrimac, a distance of perhaps two miles. Public conveyances meet the trains at Salisbury station and are driven out to the beach, the last part of the route cross- ing a section of the famous Hampton marshes, an area of ten thousand acres, stretching from the Merrimac to Hampton River, and on which are stacked fifteen thousand tons of salt-hay. The beach also extends to the Hampton River, a distance of six miles from the Merrimac, but nearly all of its northern three-fourths is solitary and unoccupied. The great festal occasion of this locality here occurs on a certain day late in the month of August, when many thousands of people from the upper country assemble on the beach, and listen to speeches from famous orators, reviewing questions of living popular interest. The beauties of the Merrimac above Newburyport may be enjoyed by taking the steamboat for Haverhill, from whose deck you may see Deer Island, Laurel Hill, Hawkswood. Salisbury Point. Rocks Bridge, and the other noted localities. By descending the river to its mouth, you may see the summer-villages there, and the great jetties now being erected, at enormous cost, to improve the navigation of the river. Here we may read Whittier's poem. "The Merrimac," beginning: " Stream of my fathers ! sweetly still The sunset rays thy valley till; 1'oured slantwise down the long delile, Wave, wood, and spire beneath tliei There 's not a tree upon thy side, Nor rock, which thy returning tide As yet hath left abrupt and stark Above thy evening water-mat k; No calm cove witli its rocky hem, No isle whose emerald swells he-em Thy broad, smooth current : not a s; Bowed to the freslienin- ocean -ale: N"o small boat with its busy oars, Nor -ray wall slopin- tot hy shores : Nor farm-house with ils maple shad ( )r ri-id poplar colonnade. But lies distinct and full in si-ht. Beneath tins irush of sunset light.'' CHAPTER VIII. SEABROOK. HAMPTON FALLS. HAMPTON. BOAR'S HEAD. RYE BEACH. LITTLE BOAR'S HEAD. STRAW'S POINT. CONCORD POINT. A GROUP OF BEACH PICTURES. REFRESHED by a rest at charming old Newburyport. we prepare to resume our northward journey once more. Almost as soon as the train leaves the station, it runs out on the bridge over the Merrimac River, which flows in wide full current here, and affords a beautiful prospect, upward to Belleville and Po Hill, or downward by the gray old wharves and quaint spires of the city, to the two channel-piers below, and then on to Plum Island, with its white light-house and many cottages, and the broad mouth of the river, and Black Rock on the opposite shore, near the tall pointed beacon which facetious Essex North calls "Gen. Butler's Tooth-pick." Nearer the bridge, on the north shore, are the weather-beaten old houses of Ring's Island, one of the most ancient of the villages of Salisbury, and studded all over with legends. Flying across the salt- marshes of Town Creek, with long views on the left to upper New- buryport. the train presently comes to the level and outspread village of Salisbury. In this gray old town we may visit the Rocky-Hill Church, built in 177:1. with its high-placed pulpit and helmet-shaped sounding-board, and the large square pew of the deacons; or the low- roofed birthplace of Caleb dishing, the renowned jurist and Diplomat: or the old home of Daniel Webster's mother: or the audience-room of the royal commissioners of 10!>!> : or the remnants and relics of the more ancient Indian settlements, up by Ilawkswood. The Amesbury Branch runs from Newburyport to the brisk indus- trial village of Amcsbury. from which carriages are shipped by thou- sands to all parts of the country. The home of Whittier is the great object of attraction for cultivated tourists. Beyond Salisbury we traverse a long stretch of the Follymill Woods, one of the most beautiful and interesting forests in New Eng- land, and celebrated in the exquisite poetry of Whittier. Somewhere in tliis fair wilderness, the railroad enters Rockingham County, in New Hampshire', the famous old Granite State, whose rich tide-water plains are fringed with sea-repelling beaches, while inland they rise, by many a terrace of picturesque blue hills, and past many a lovelv highland lake, to the noble peaks of the White Mountains. The first town that the railway enters is Seabrook. whose many salty tidal brooks sink away into the sea to the eastward. The (irst settlements here were made in the perilous days of IG.'W ; and a number of the pioneers suf- fered death in its most horrible forms, at the hands of the Indian lords of the soil. Not quite a mile t'nun the Cation of Hampton Fall- i- the ancient hamlet of the same name, with it- low-lyin- farm-houses and -leek cattle, and a monument erected by the State to Me-liech \\Yaiv. the first president of New Hamp-hiiv. whose rule covered the dark \var< from 177C, to 17s5. Away back in the year 17:57. the -overnor of Ma--a- chusetts rode into the village, attended by the I,ei.'i-lature and escorted by five troop- of horse, and met the governor and Legislature of New 74 Hampshire, to hold long debates with them about the boundaries of the two provinces. The dispute was carried on for many days, in the famous George Tavern; and finally the "poor, little, loyal, distressed province of New Hampshire " appealed its cause to the throne of Eng- land, whose king decided against the claims of Massachusetts, even then characterized as a "vast, opulent, and overgrown province." As the train flies over the wide Hampton marshes, veined by Hamp- ton River and its tributary creeks, off to the eastward, across the level plain, and beyond its many hay -mows, appear the houses on Hampton Beach, with the high headland of Boar's Head. The abundant salt-hay on these amphibious meadows is as valuable now as two hundred and fifty years ago, when it led the first company of immigrants, from bonnie old English Norfolk, to settle here, on the Indian domain called Winnecummet. This region has been made classic by the poems of Whittier, "The AVreck of Rivermouth," "The Changeling," "Hampton Beach," and others, in which occur admirable pen-pictures of the local scenery by field and flood. " For there the river comes winding down From salt sea-meadows and uplands brown, And waves on the outer rocks a-foam Shout to its waters ' Welcome home ! "' At Hampton station, the broad platforms are ofttimes crowded with summer-travellers, and hotel-coaches line the adjacent roadway. Hampton is an idyllic old place, nestling under magnificent elms and amid broad green fields, "the loveliest village of the plain," with a couple of good inns, and a large summer-patronage. The people are all of American stock, simple and frugal in their habits, and dwelling, many of them, in houses that have been in the same families since the days of the royal Georges. For Hampton was settled as early as the year 1038, and remained for some years a practically independent border republic, negotiating in simple diplomacy with the similar com- monwealths of Exeter. Dover, etc. For forty years these communes formed a part of Massachusetts. Here you may be shown the site of the old Bond house, the first edifice erected in Hampton; or the Bridal Elm, under whose branches Avas celebrated the first wedding in town; or the "haunted house; " or the old academy, where Rufus Choate was a pupil. The three-mile ride from the station to the beach leads through a pleasant and arable farming-country, amid gray old colonial houses and ample barns and aisles of verdurous trees. Hampton Beach is a broad strip of white sand, between the great brae sea and a long line of summer-cottages and hotels, and witli the black heads of the Kiver- mouth Rocks running out into deep water on the south, oft' the entrance to the lagoon of Hampton River. A half-century or more ago, this was the home-harbor for a fleet of fishing-schooners and coasters, all of which have long since gone to " Daw .Jones's locker." The crown- 75 ing glory of the beach is at its northern end, the famous promontorj of Boar's Head, a high green hill of a score of acres, projecting intc the sea, and crowned by the Boar's-IIead House, for nearly half i century the most famous hotel on New Hampshire's shore. The vie\\ from this eyrie is one of the noblest on the American coast, with the intense blue of the deep sea rounding half the horizon, from the din sierras of Cape Ann, far away in the south, and the weird rocks of the Isles of Shoals, around over Rye Beach and the approaches to New- castle and Portsmouth Harbor, and the deep-blue dome of Mount Aga- menticus. Landward stretches the pale green of the marshes, abort which rise great flocks of birds ; and the elm-embowered village oi Hampton, and the distant spires of Newburyport, and the rugged mountains of Peterborough, Monadnock's great brethren. At night, the warning stars of thirteen light-houses, from Thatcher's Island tc Portland, are visible from this half-islanded plateau. " And fair are the sunny isles in view East of the grisly Head of the I!oar, And Agamenticus lifts its blue Disk of a cloud the woodlands o'er; And southerly, when the tide is down, 'Twixt white sea-waves and sand-hills brown, The beach-birds dance and the gray gulls wheel Over a floor of burnished steel.'' John Greenleaf Whittier. Along the beach, which runs southward for two miles to Hampton River, are some scores of primitive cottages, with several large hotels. This strand is famous for fine surf, which plunges down its long line in combing green billows, and roars around the ledges below the Ocean House. Whatsoever things are desirable in bathing, fishing, driving. or rambling are found at their best here; and the remoteness of tin- place from railroads keeps on" most of the unlovely transient, element of summer-scorched picnic-people. The beautiful rur&\ ptaisaitnce of the ancient farming-town comes riii'ht down to the shore, with its rich fields and shadowy trees and shrubbery, giving a charm to the scenery that is not found at those beaches which are isolated by sun-scorched salt-meadows and sandy plains. Rye Beach, is within easy walkiuir or driving distance of Hampton Beach, by a noble sea-viewmir road, which lead- up by Little Hoar's Head. But the way for outsiders to reach this delightful place is to leave the train at North Hampton, the station beyond Hampton, and rule four miles across country on the -taire. Little Boar's Head, where the road from the station reaches the beach and turns northward toward the Karrayu) House headland projecting into the sea. and occupied by a scor summer-villas and boarding-house-; and on the cre-l i- Tt with its connected family-cottages, leased by the season. lit Franklin Tierce built a hou-e. -mne thirty years air* 76 most of the summers after his retirement from the White House. Sec. Robeson, Mrs. Stowe, and other notables have been sojourners here. Rye Beach is the most fashionable and brilliant of the New-Hamp- shire beaches, and overflows all through the delicious summer with the best of societ}", much of which comes from distant cities and states. On one side, it fronts towards the beautiful sea; and on the other are gray-walled old country-roads, embosomed in apple-orchards and lead- ing through miles of Arcadian scenery. The chief hotel is the Farra- gut House, and a little farther back from the beach is the Sea-View House. The exotic Episcopal guests of summer have erected here the quaint stone chapel of St.-Andrew's-by-the-Sea, with its sturdy tower and far-sounding bell. Over ten thousand summer-visitors are accommodated every season at Eye, many of them being from the Western States. One of the charms of the locality is its perfect blending of country farm-life and sea-shore life, where, in typical old farm-houses, deeply hidden among the orchards and corn-fields and hedges, you may find a rural restful- ness unexcelled in Berkshire or Minnesota; while within a mile or two the sea roars along its white-embroidered strand. There are dozens of these country-houses in Rye. where summer-boarders may find accommodations. A favorite promenade is the two-mile-long plank walk which leads southward from the Farragut to Little Boar's Head, along the top of the famous sea-wall, and commands views of diverse beauty, the inland emerald and the seaward Jajns-lnsuli, the Shoals, the procession of ships, and the ever-moving billows. A charming shore-road leads from Rye Beach to Straw's Point, witli the rippling sea on one side' and the green country on the other, and occasional summer-cottages, overlooking the crest of the beach. At Straw's Point is the station of the direct cable to England, a relay station for strengthening the electric current between New York and Torbay. in Nova Scotia. From the Greenland station a mail-stage runs two and a half miles eastward to the quaint village of Rye. over which an air of antiquity broods like a perpetual charm. The six miles of beaches belonging to this ancient town include Foss's Beach. Wallis Sands, and other well- known localities, full of rare natural beauty, and overflowed perpetually by the life-giving air of the ocean. Hampton, Portsmouth. Newcastle, and Exeter are within easy driving-distance, over roads of rare beauty and interest. The bathing on the beaches is very good. Concord Point, live miles from Portsmouth and six miles from Rye Beach, was a lonely and barren pasture as late as the year 1*70, but now it is a prosperous sea-side resort, occupied chiefly by citizens of Concord. the Kimballs. Thayers. Emerys. Mori-ills, and others. It commands a fine view of the Isles of Shoals, only six miles oil' shore. 77 :;|l!!;i!'!:' ' \ " : "'""" ; '!.' T8 CHAPTER IX. STRAWBERRY BANK. A NAVAL POUT. HISTORIC HOT T SES. BOOKS ABOUT THE TOWN. TlIE UNITED-STATES NAVY-YAKD. PORTSMOUTH is one of the dear and precious old towns of New England, surrounded with an aureole of delightful legends and historic events, and abounding in memories of great men. The rapid-flowing Piscataqua sweeps by its leaning old wharves, to enter the sea a league below. The history of the town is full of inter- esting episodes, from the dawn of 1G03, when Capt. Martin Pring came sailing up the river in search of sassafras, and 1G14, when the adven- turous Capt. John Smith explored the lonely harbor. Soon afterwards, the first .settlers began to arrive, Thompson and his Scottish fishermen at Odiorne's Point, and Chadbourne at the Great House (on Court Street). The}' called the colony " Strawberry Bank" for many years, after a luxuriant bed of wild strawberries near the river; and in 1G53 the Massachusetts General Court gave it the name of PORTSMOUTH, "as being a name most suitable for this place, it being the river's month, and as good as any in the land. It was also the name of the English city in which John Mason (the first governor) was born." For more than a century, the home of the royal governors and the king's council rested here. Portsmouth lias always been a naval and military town, from the seventeenth century, when the British convoy-frigates refitted lien-. and sent their roystering Jack Tars on leave through the narrow colo- nial streets, to the recent days of the Constitution and Jicnrxftrf/e and their gallant crews. From this region went the rugged troops whom Washington inquired about as they boldly marched into his camp, and was answered by Cilley, of Nottingham: "They're full-blooded Yan- kees, by . from Rockingham County, that have never yet turned their backs on any man." And here also were enlisted the New-Hamp- shire companies whom Washington found on guard at West Point the day after Arnold's treason, and to whom lie said : " I believe I can trust you." Here we may listen to Aldrich's sweet Piscataqua poem : 79 And then to hear the muffled tolls From steeples slim and white, And watch, among the Isles of Shoals, The Beacon's orange light." In rambling about these quaint old streets, you may come upon the law-ollice of Daniel Webster; the lightning-rod put up by Benjamin Franklin; the colonial-built Athemeum, on Market Square, with its great library and museum; the Warner mansion, built in 1718-23, of bricks brought from Holland, with interiors of panelled wood ; the United-States building, erected during the administration of Pros. Franklin Pierce, and from its top overlooking the sea, the swift Pis- cataqua, and the Isles of Shoals; the office of the "New-Hampshire Gazette," which dates its beginning from 175G; the old Episcopal Church of St. John, containing the first organ used in America, and imported in 1713 by Thomas Brattle for King's Chapel, Boston; the Haliburton house, at 25 Islington Street, where "Sam Slick" often made visits; the Ladd house, built in 17(!0 by the rich English mer- chant, John Molfat, and afterwards the home of William Whipple, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, and general of brigade in the Continental Army; the Langdon house, where Louis Philippe of France was entertained; the Lear house, where Tobias Lear, Washing- ton's private secretary, was born; and tin- homes of the Penhallow, Pickering, Went worth, Livermore. Fernald. Buckminster, Vauglian, Kherburne, and other famous provincial families. All these houses and their traditions, and the old churches, and Christian Shore' and Brim- stone Hill and other localities, are described in the bright little "Ports- mouth Guide-Book." for sale at. the book-stores. The modern city, growing; up in an 1 around ancient, Portsmouth, is full of keen enterprise and activity, one of its most popular and famous features being the immense brewery wherein Frank Jones's ale is prepared, in numberless cauldrons and vats. 81 If you can find a copy of " Brewster's Rambles about Portsmouth," or Adams's "Annals of Portsmouth," or the "Poets of Portsmouth" (published in 18G5), you may enjoy a rich antiquarian feast, and find many places of deep interest along these old cobble-paved streets. Or you may read pleasant, descriptions in Aldrich's " Story of a Bad Boy" and " Prudence Palfrey ; " and in Shillaber's works ; and in Longfellow's poem of Lady AVentworth : "One hundred years as;o ami something more, In Queen Street, Portsmouth, at her tavern-door." The United-States navy-yard was founded here as early as 177">, when Langdon built the frigate Hitil- !//. Ymitic. Sn-dtarii. and other ve-^rK of the North- Atlantic si|uadron often visit Kittery: and the' lirave old ('mixtitntiuii. freiirhted with four-score years of glory, lies here at her moorings. Here, reading Ilolmcs's "Old Ironsides." we mav >ee CHAPTER X. flEWCflSTIiE. FORGOTTEN FORTRESSES. THE WAUJACH TOWEK. THE HOTEL WEXTWORTII. JAFFREY POIXT. THE HOMES OF Two POETS. BITS OF SEA-SONG. THE HOUSE OF GOVERNOR WEXTWORTH. THE ancient village of Newcastle lies at the mouth of Ports- mouth Harbor, on the river-ward side of Great Island, with its narrow lanes and little moss-grown houses, inhabited by about six hundred people, whose ancestors were among the most dar- ing and expert navigators on this (or any other) coast. Here they will show you the house of Paul Jones's boatswain ; the building in which Randall, the founder of the Free Baptists, preached his first sermon , the venerable Sheafe mansion ; and other storied memorials of olden times. The light-house was built in 1771 by Gov. John Wentworth, and be- came the property of the United States in 1780. when it was remodelled and cut down. The island was fortified by John Mason, early in the seventeenth century, with an intrenchment mounting ten cannon ; and a new fort was built in 1GGG. and afterwards received the royal names of William and Mary. In 1774 the "Liberty Boys" of Portsmouth, at Paul Revere's summons, captured this fortress by surprise, and car- ried off its armament, sending a hundred barrels of the king's powder to the American army besieging Boston. This was served hot to the redcoats at the battle of Bunker Hill. A British fleet re-captured the empty fort soon afterwards, but the garrison sailed away in 1775. Fort Constitution was built on the ruins of the old Provincial fortress in ls.08, and partly rebuilt in ]sG3, remaining now a great granite ruin, out on the lonely Fort Point. Near the fort is the ancient ^Yalbach Tower, a brick fortification in the form of a Martello tower, wiji casemated embrasures and a dimin- utive maga/ine. It was erected nearly eighty years ago by Col. John DeBarth Walbach, formerly an officer in Prince Maximilian's Royal Al>acc Heiriment. and in later years commander of Fort Constitution. When an alarm was given of approaching enemies, the old Alsatian colonel mounted his only cannon on the tower and awaited their broad- sides: but the hostile ships merely looked into the harbor, and then bore away. Over the tranquil lagoon of Little Harbor rises the Hotel Went- worth, a mile from the old village, on the highest point of tho island, seventy-live feet above the sen. The views from the Wentworth include the open sea, the spires and roofs of Portsmouth, the great hill of Agamcnticus, and the blue ranges of Nottingham and Strafl'onl. There is every facility here for boating and bathing, fishing and driv- ing, and the countless forms of in-door amusement so popular during the cool evenings of summer. Public conveyances run over the league-long road from Portsmouth to Newcastle several times daily, crossing the river on a long bridge which rests on several islets. Other stages run to the Wentworth, using a different road, and crossing the famous Sagamore Creek, with historic estates bordering its banks. Jalirey (or Jerry's) Point was fortified at an early dale, and armed with brass guns provided by the merchant > of London; but the-e works, and their successors of (lie lime of ISIL', \vere removed to make room for more modern batteries, which have not been completed. At .Tatl'rey Point is Kelp Pock, the beautiful summer-home of Ed- mund ('. Stedman, the New-York banker-poet : and near by nestle- the home of John Albee. the poet, whose little book about Newcastle con- tains scores of fascinating legends. ThK houM' is over t wo hundred years old. and the Provincial Legislature held its S cs-ions of li'>s_' am" li'is; 1 , under its hospitable roof, when Crautield. the Iloyal Governor, dwelt here. Albee's "Ho^'ii Hill" and other strong Emersonian poem- are familiar to manv readers. It begins: 84 Low overhead the gulls scream shrill, And homeward scuds each little boat." It may be allowed us to give one of Stedman's magnificent verses, written in his stone tower beyond the low gray walls and the wild- rose thickets : " Splendors of morning the billow-crests brighten, Lighting and luring them on to the land, Far-away waves where the wan vessels whiten, Blue rollers breaking in surf where we stand, Curved like the necks of a legion of horses, Each with his froth-gilded mane flowing free, Hither they speed in perpetual courses, Bearing thy riches, O beautiful sea ! " The old Wentworth house, on Little Harbor, was built in 1750 by Benning Wentworth, Governor of New Hampshire from 17-il, the time of its separation from Massachusetts, until 1766, when his nephew John (afterwards Sir John Wentworth) succeeded him. The old Gov- ernor married his house-maid, Martha Hilton (as set forth in Long- fellow's "Lady Wentworth"); and after his death she wedded Col. Wentworth, a veteran officer of Culloden and Fontenoy. The chief of the forty-five rooms in this venerable house is the oak-studded council- chamber, with its huge carved fire-place, and its rare portraits of Dorothy Quincy (John Hancock's wife), by Copley, Secretary Waldron, and Sir Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Stafford. In the hall are the racks of the governor's guard, with their twelve flint-lock muskets; and below the house is a great cellar, where in old times thirty horses were kept saddled and ready for a march, in days of emergency. COTTAGE AT JAFFUEY POINT. S6 CHAPTER XI. THE ISLES OF SHOALS. THE LEIGHTONS. Ax ARTISTS' AND AUTHORS' RESORT. VIEWS OF SEA AND SKY. THE DAYS OF THE PIRATES AND SEAL-HUNTERS. APPLEDORE. STAR ISLAND. A VANISHED TOWN. THE Isles of Shoals form a unique watering-place in the ocean, ten or twelve miles from Portsmouth, from which steamboats run hither several times daily. The season lasts from mid-June well into September, during which thousands of visitors come here to enjoy the bracing sea-air. There is no beauty of landscape here, for the islands are, as Celia Thaxter says, " mere heaps of tumbling granite in the wide and lonely sea;" but the majesty of the ocean broods over even-thing. The founder of the modern summer-resort was Thomas 1). Leighton, an eccentric Democratic gentleman of Portsmouth, who banished himself to these inhospitable rocks as a result of a mortify- ing political defeat. Years ago, a number of vacation-tourists visited Appledore and secured entertainment at the Leighton mansion, which was gradually enlarged to meet their needs, and linally replaced by the great Appledore House, managed by Oscar and Cedric Leighton, the sons of the exile. The Shoals have always been peculiarly a resort for New-Englanders, including literarians like Whittier, Hutton, Allen, Gushing, Mrs. Ole Hull, and Dr. Peabody; artists like William M. Hunt (who died here), Appleton Brown, and Childe Ilassam; actors like Booth, Barrett, and Kiddle ; and man}' other well-known persons. These nine sea-beaten crags are bold and treeless mountain-tops of weather-beaten granite, seamed with dykes of lava and quart/, and fringed with roaring caverns and jagged cliff's, forever swept by spray and foam. There are a few patches of stunted grass in the hollows of the rocks, and low-lying beds of wild roses, elder-berry blooms, and other pretty flowers. The views are of amazing extent and grandeur, embracing all the coast from Cape Ann to Cape Porpoise, Portsmouth and Newcastle to the westward under the sunset, and the noble blue heights of the mainland, from Po Hill at Amesbury. and Agamenticus, near York, to the remoter crests of Monadnock and Pawtuckaway, and the dim outlines of the White Mountains. At night yon can see the irlimmer of nine li:;ht-houses, starring the long dark coast-line. The wind from any quarter is cooled by the surrounding expanses of sea. 87 These lonely isles were frequented by English and Dutch fishermen early in the sixteenth century as far back as the days of the Ar- mada. Champlain reported them us tales assez haute s ; and Capt. John Smith named them ''Smith's Isles." Subsequently, the islands were occupied by a motley company of fishermen, pirates, and seal-hunters, who lived here in great uproar and content, abusing the mainland con- stables with "opprobrious languidg," and worse, and remaining defiant and intractable even before the brass-mounted black staff of the high sheriff' of York. The Gorgeana General Court was compelled to re- peal an enactment against allowing women on the islands, saying : '-As the fishermen of the Isles of Shoals will entertain womanhood, they have liberty to sit down there, provided they shall not sell either wine, beare, or liquor." By the year IfioO there were six hundred dwellers here, and fishermen from all over the world frequented the port, and pirates and letter-of-marque men from the Spanish Main. When the Revolutionary War broke out, the people were removed to the main- land, by order of the State authorities, and this blow was never recov- ered from. Appledore is a mile long, and two-thirds of a mile wide, made up of two high and rocky ridges, between which, in a little valley, stands (In- famous Appledore House, with its modern conveniences and luxuries. Close by i< the pretty cottage of Mrs. Celia Thaxter. the sister of the Leightons. and one of the most celebrated of New-England authors. Star 1-laiul. three-quarters of a mile long, and half a mile wide, wa- the site of the ancient village of Gosport. the capital of the littli- archi- pelago. About the year ls?o it was depopulated, and the great < iceauic Hotel arose on its lonely shore. This was burnt, two or three year- liter, and replaced by another and smaller public house. Star and White Islands belong to New Hampshire: the other i-lnml-. to Maine. On the highest point of Star Nland is the Co-port ehurdi. built of the timbers of a wrecked Spaui-h iralleon. in '(',.<>; rebuilt in 1 7i?o ; burned by the islanders in 17'.0; and rebuilt of tone in l-oo. C'lo-c 88 by lies the bury ing-ground, with its brown-stone monuments to former pastors. Near the great southern cliff which overlooks the ocean is the triangular marble monument to Capt. John Smith ; and farther down opens the cavern in which Betty Moody concealed herself and her children when the Indians were making a foray on the defenceless island. High on the western bluff are the remains of the old fort, erected in 1633 and disarmed in 1775 by a naval expedition from New- buryport, which carried away the guns and ammunition. Smutty Nose, nearly as large as Appledore. was named by facetious mariners, from its long south-eastern point of black rock. Cedar and Malaga Islands are connected with Smutty Nose at low tide. A mile from Star lies White Island, a picturesque mass of rocks, upholding a light-house, and joined to Seavey's Island by a low-tide bar. Farther westerly is Londoner's; and away in the north-east, two miles from Appledore, the dangerous black ledges of Duck Island furnish homes for sea-gulls and other aquatic birds. People who visit the Shoals should surely bring with them Celia Thaxter's charming little book. " Among the Isles of Shoals," and per- haps, also, Jenness's historical account; and read Lowell's thrilling poem of " Appledore," and Whittier's ballads of the neighboring coast. Mrs. Thaxter spent many years here, in summer and winter, and tells of the exquisite flowers, the various sea-birds, the old legends, the wrecks, and a hundred other tilings, in a literary style of rare beauty. One who has seen it can never forget the scene painted by "Whittier : " So, as I lay upon Appledore, In the calm of a closing summer clay. And the broken linos of Hampton shore In purple mist of clondlund lay, The Kivermouth Rocks their story told, And waves aglow with sunset gold, Rising and breaking in steady chime, Boat the rhythm and kept the time. And the sunset paled, and warmed once more, With a softer, tenderer after-srlow ; In the east was moonrise, with boats off shore, And sails in the distance drifting slow. The beacon glimmered from Portsmouth bar, The White Isle kindled its -/real red star; And life and death in my old-time lay Mingled in peace like tlv ni<;ht and clay ! " 81) CHAPTER XII. KITTED flflD KlTTKHV PoiXT. FoilT Mc'CLAKY. Pl-M'PKRRKI.I.S AND SPAHHAWKS. (JKRRISII ISLAND. YORK HARKOR. YORK MINSTER. NOR- WOOD FARM. LONG SANDS. ('API: NKDDICK. BOON ISLAND. YORK BEACH. BALD-HEAD Ci.in\ AGAMKNTICTS. BUT not even the charming antiquities and rare scenery of Ports- mouth, nor yet its many quaint legends of the days of maritime enterprise, must keep us longer from the alluring beaches of ocean-breasting Maine. The train rolls out on the high bridge over the eddying and troubled Piscataqua. and on one side open the bine reaches toward Dover Point, while on the other the islands close before the mouth of the whirling stream, with the spire of Kittery blinking at the tide-swept wharves and colonial towers of Portsmouth. Beyond rise the ship-houses at the Kittery navy-yard, and the great Hotel Wentworth. out on the hori/.on. If \ve choose to leave the main line for a few hours, we may board the York-Beach train at Ports- mouth, and cross the bridge and glide down through Kittery to the very shore of the sounding sea. The York Harbor & Beach Railroad was built in 1SSG-87, and is operated by the Boston v<: Maine Railroad. Since its completion, the old yellow stage-coaches that used to jolt passengers over the weary road from Portsmouth have fallen into des- uetude, and summer-visitors can reach the delightful resorts along this shore without hardship or fatigue. It is one of the most picturesque of railroads, swinu'in^ around amonu; the low rocky hills and ancient farms of Kittery and York, and alongside the bright waters of many a tidal lagoon and salt-water creek, and irivinu; views of the Piscataqua. the navv-vard. the Pepperrcll. York Harbor and River, the elm-embow- ered village of York, and the magnificent sweep of the Long Sands, with leatrues of ocean opening away to the dim eastern liori/.ou. Kittery was settled away hack in lU:?:; by Walter Neal. and re- ceived it- Kiiii'Ii-h name ami incorporation eighteen years later, when il held the proud position of the larire-t town in .Maine, of who-e taxe- it paid nearly one-half. Picturesquely Indented by tidal -nvam-. and abounding: in ru^ed diversity of scenery, and in'ay old farm- hon-e- and Lrarri-on-hou-e- of the la-t century. Kittery otters many at t met ion- to t lie summer-day vi-it or. and ha- been for yea r- a favorite resort. Near the depot at Kittery Point -land- the Pepperrell Hotel, a 90 Summer-house accommodating about one hundred guests, and from its high place overlooking Portsmouth" Harbor and its defences, the slum- berous old city, and the pleasant islands of the Piscataqua, together with leagues of picturesque inland country. In the same vicinity is the more modern Hotel Park Field, with equal attractions. The old Kittery -Point church was built in 1714, the frame having been floated down from Dover; and the plate belonging to it was a bequest from Col. Pepperrell. The oldest house here dates from 1660, when it was reared by John Bray, whose daughter Margery was Sir William Pepperrell's mother. The Cutts mansion was erected by Lady Pepperrell. in 1 ?">'., and passed into the Cutts family thirty years later. The head of this clan, with his l\vo sons, died insane; and his daughter Sally remained here until her demise, in 1S74-. Near the hotel are the ruins of Fort McClary. founded in 1700. and long afterwards named in honor of Andrew McClary. of Epsom, major of the 1st New-Hampshire Continental Kegiment. and the handsomest man in the Army of the devolution. He was killed by a cannon-shot from a British frigate, just after the battle of Bunker Hill. The fort was rebuilt in 1845. and again during the Secession War. when this 91 coast was expecting a visit from the -Queen's navee." The works then begun were never linished, and probably never will be. The Pepperrell mansion dates from about the year IT.'SO, having been built by Col. William Pepperrell, a wealthy ship-builder; and it became the home of his son, Sir William Pepperrell, the lirst American baronet, commander of the Provincial forces at the victorious siege of Louisburg, in 174,", and lieutenant-general in the British Army. His grandson, William Sparhawk, succeeded to his name and estates, and fled to England with the Tory refugees, upon which the great domains of the family, covering many thousands of acres, suffered confiscation by the American government. The house was formerly much larger than it is now, with a broad deer-park leading down to the river, and a noble avenue of trees extending to the Sparhawk place. The Pepper- rell tomb dates from 17;5;>, and contains the remains of thirty persons of this proud family, walled up in a crypt. FORT Me. CLARY The Sparhawk mansion was built over one hundred and lifty years ago by Col. Nathaniel Sparhawk. who married Lady Kli/.abeth Pep- perrell. in a dress of white padnsoy silk, flowered with all sorts of colors." The rooms were richly hung with damask, of red. blue, yel- low, and other bright, hues, each of which gave its name and key of color to the room. It remained in the Sparhawk family till 1S1">. Gerrish Island, two miles from Kittery Point, fronts the ocean fora long distance, a picturesque region of woods, farms, and beaches, joined to the mainland by a bridge, and traversed by a nursed, lonely road commanding exquisite sea-views. ( >n the promontory of 1'oca- hontas Point, at the month of the Piscataqua. with rocks ( >n one side and a linn sandy beach on the other, stands the Hotel I'ocahontas. with extensive grounds, tishiug and boatinir and bathing for the active, and illimitable ocean air and views for the tranquil. The island covers two thousand acres. It was granted by Sir 1-Yrdinaudo (Jorges to his brother-in-law. Arilmr Chainpernowne. of Devon, who^e family bore kinship to the (Alberts. Ualei^rlis. and 1'lantaiivnets. The name of Dartington, pertaining to the family estate in England, was given to the island; and Francis, the son of the grantee, came over to assume its government, in 1(536. when lie had reached the age of twenty-four. For over lift}' years this worthy gentleman dwelt here, serving as royal councillor and commissioner and, dying childless, left the do- main to his wife's family, the Cuttses. The great cairn of stones that .marks his grave is two miles from the Pocahontas. In Albee's noble words : " Here rest the bonea of Francis Champernowne; The blazonry of Norman kings he bore ; His fathers builded many a tower and town, And after Senlac England's lords. Now o'er His island cairn the lonesome forests frown, And stiillffm seas beat the untrodden shore." York Harbor opens near the month of York River, where the singular rocky peninsula of Stage Xeck (or Fort Head) forces the stream to bend away to the southward, just before sweeping into the sea. Upon this Xahant-like promontory stands the great Marshall House, with the ocean on one side, and on the other the beautiful winding river, flowing between pale-green meadows and darker for- ests, fertile farms and ruined wharves. On the outer side of the isthmus extends the beach of Short Sands, where the perfection of surf-bathing may be enjoyed. The shipping which in remote days made York almost a rival of Boston and Salem has vanished from the bay. and is replaced in sum- mer by fleets of beautiful yachts, sailing in from distant metropolitan harbors. The visitors, in the intervals of tennis and driving and bath- ing, make much of the boating and fishing privileges, the blue sea- reaches on the outside, or the lovely winding courses of the York River, penetrating for "miles into the peaceful country. Around the north side of the harbor extends a line of rocky heights, now for the most part occupied by villas, whose happy occupants can look down on a panorama of surpassing beauty. On this side, also, are the minor hotels. the Harmon, (ioodwin. and York-Harbor. each with its constituency of admirers, returning every season to enjoy the bland salt air of this favored region. On the roads you may see phaeton<. dog-carts, pony-carriages, and high-stepping horses, with much bravery of costumes and charm of pretty women. There is a peculiar splendor of color at York, in the long green pastures and meadows, divided by gray stone walls, masses of wild roses and golden-rod, and the glorious livinir blue of sea and sky. Only a mile from the Long Sands, buried under the umbrageous shelter of main" tree>. slumbers the historic hamlet of York, with its half-do/.eii shops and a somnolent post-oltice. The little white village church, which facetious summer-voyagers have named "York Minster," has now passed its hundred and liftieth year of service. At the ends VOKK HAIUJOU. 94 of the village are magnificent rows of elm-trees, many of which were set out by Judge Sewall in the last century. Among the fine old colo- nial houses, white and green, with enrailed roofs and huge chimneys, are those formerly occupied by Judge David Sewall and the gay and gallant Paul Langdon. Here and there, too, appear the mossy gambrel- roofs of still older houses. The jail was built in 1053, from the proceeds of a county tax, and still stands on its little knoll over the village-street, partly of heavy masonry, with a dark dungeon shut in by a three-feet thickness of reeking stone walls, and with a door six inches thick. The records of old York are full of fascination for the mousing antiquary or the cultivated summer-traveller. Its founder was Sir Ferdinando Gorges, of Somersetshire, one of Queen Elizabeth's stout- hearted naval captains in the Armada days, and also an early grantee of New England, and lord-proprietary of the province of Maine. He dispatched various colonies to his vast empty empire, sending also his son and his nephew to administer it. On the site of York he founded the capital of the new principality, incorporated as a city, and bearing, in his honor, the name of Gorgeana. Years afterwards, when their projects for agriculture had failed, and the Indians had driven in or massacred their outer settlements, the gray old Somerset knight died, and his yeomen of Maine, ignored by the Gorges heirs, joined the Commonwealth of Massachusetts. The Bay Province revoked the city charter, and gave the place " the short and snappish name of York," according to tradition because the psalm-tune of York was the favorite melody in the village meetings. In the winter of 1G92, three hundred Indians and Frenchmen marched down from Canada on snow-shoes and attacked York by night, slaying seventy-five of its people and leading one hundred into captivity. Thenceforth for more than half a century the town laid in a state of siege, frequently assailed by the blood-thirsty enemy, but always holding its own bravely. Four or five miles up the York River two of the old garrison-houses are still standing, built of heavy hewn timbers, and witli projecting upper stories. The inhabitants lived in great peace after the Conquest of Canada. A Ion-; the cool sequester'd vale of life They kept the noiseless tenor of their way." When the railroad sought to build its line here, they combatted the scheme valiantly, saving: " It will poison the land for a mile each side of it;" and so the company was compelled to have its charter amended, and laid the tracks miles away in the woods to the westward. From the Short Sands, a coast of sharp and angular rocks, of rich deep colors, projects seaward, and bends around to the Long Sands, which are distant about half a league by the new road over the heights. This is the famous region of Norwood Farm, with Whiting's, Baker's, and Norwood's large boarding-houses, and the pleasant sum- mer-cottages of John C. Hopes, Francis A. Peters, Mrs. Charles Dwight, Dr. F. 1). Stackpolc, and Mrs. Kice, of Boston, Col. John I). Washbiirn, of Worcester, the Kev. Joseph May and the Williams iamily, of Phila- delphia, and other well-known people. The views from this high pro- montory include the openings of York Harbor, Cape Neddick and the Nubble, Boon Island and the Shoals, and a vast area of inland country, stretching away toward the sunset. Near the crest is the pretty Epis- copal chapel of St. George's-by-the-Sea, with its rich memorial window, erected by and for the summer population of this most aristocratic part of the York coast. The Long Sands form one of the finest of American beaches, a mile and a half long, and of hard gray sand, gently sloping to the surf. On one side rise the wooded highlands of Norwood Farm, with its EAIU.Y MORNING TUB NIT.IH.K, YOIIK KHAIII. prominent cottages: on the oilier side Cape Neddick projects into the sea, with the Nubble at its end; and near the middle of the beach is a group of wave-washed ledges. The Harrison House and Hotel l.artlett stand at the smith end of the strand, not far from Roaring Rock, ami within a mile of old York village. About half-way up is (irant's Sea Cottage, near Waldemcre. the villa of Mrs. Allan Mauvel. of Minnesota : and a little way beyond is the Donnell House. Thence for a mile r -o the beach is closely lined witli small cottages, bordering the highway. Cape Noddick is a noble crairiry promontory, faced with hiirh dill's and surf-whitened ledges, and sprayed all over with \\ild roses. white and yellow dairies, and scarlet lilies. Two hundred feet oil' its outer point i- the lone rock called the Nubble, \\itli a modern light- house and light-keeper's cottage, and many a piTi'uni'-d bed of mignon- ette in the hollows of the ledges. Thousand- of people vi-it th.- lidit 96 every summer, being ferried across by the light-keeper, and bring away mementos, painted stones, photographs, and wings and breasts of strange sea-birds. There is a tradition that old Capt. Bowden once sailed the Ploughshare through the Gut of the Nubble, to save a tide into Cape-Neddick Harbor. At low tide, one can walk dry-shod from the cape to the light-house, where, an hour or two later, the salty tides rush and roar through the rocky passage. Far out at sea, a good three leagues as the crow flies, lies Boon Island, its tall granite light-house towering to the height of a hundred and thirty-three feet, and bearing a lens which cost forty thousand dollars. There are dark traditions connected with this lonely islet, such as that of the Xottinyham Galley, wrecked here a century and a half ago, when the survivors of its crew turned cannibals to avoid UNION BLUFF, YOKK. starvation. This is the scene of Celia Thaxter's poem, "The Watch of Boon Island : " " Afar and cold on the horizon's rim Loomed the tall light-house, like a ghostly sign; They sighed not as the shore behind grew dim, A rose of joy they bore across the brine. nt its warnings wide, Aloft the liaht-house Fed by their faithful hands, and ships in sight With joy beheld it, and on land men cried, Look, clear and steady burns Boon-Island light! And, while they trimmed the lamp with busy hands, ' Shine far and through the dark, sweet light,' they cried; ' Bring safely back the sailors from all lauds To waiting loye, wife, mother, sister, bride ! ' " The railway ends at York-Beach station, which is close to the land- ward end of Cape Neddick, and near Short Beach, a half-embayed strip 97 98 of sanely strand which gives admirable opportunities for sea-bathing. Facing on the sea, along the line of Short Beach, are several modern hotels, the Ocean House, Rockaway, and Atlantic. Short Beach fronts toward the north-east and receives the full tumbling of the Atlantic, when a seaward gale is blowing. ( >n one side extends the summer-village of I'nion IJliitl's. founded in is 71. and now dowered with three or four hotels and do/.ens of >imple cottages. On the other side is the hamlet of Concordville, mainly populated by 00 citizens of Concord; and on the southern shore of the cape stand the plain summer-cottages of Dover Bind'. The vicinity of Short Beach is famous for its good fishing. rock- cod, sea-perch, and flounders from the shore-ledges, eels at the Inlet, and, in deep waters outside, cod. halibut, mackerel, hake, and pollock. Dories and sail-boats and larger vessels may be obtained here for longer or shorter voyages, or for the run to Boon Island, or York Harbor, or the Shoals, or over to Kennebunkport, which lies in sight across the broad Wells Bay. It is but a few miles by road to the quaint little hamlet and harbor of Cape Neddick. Bald-Head Cliff, about four miles up the coast, is one of the most amazing episodes of rocky scenery on our Atlantic sea-board. For a distance of six hundred feet it fronts the waves with pro- digious escarpments of rock, broken into a great, variety of shapes by the action of the sea, and banded continually by white lines of breakers. From the Cliff House there is an extensive panorama, in- cluding the long coast from the Isles of Shoals and Cape Neddick to Ogunquit Beach and Wells Beach and the distant Cape Arundel. It lias been said that the cliffis gneiss; but there are many intrusive veins of trap and quartz, oddly veininir the ledges. From the high overhanging rock called the Pulpit, you may gain an impressive' down- ward view of the thunderous surges, hurling themselves against the huge adamantine clitt's. Six or seven miles from Long Sands, away up inland, rises the famous Mount Agamenticus. a most prominent landmark over scores of leagues of the New-Kngland coast. It reaches the heiirht of six hundred and eighty feet, and may be ascended without anv serious dilliculty: but the interesting features of the view the sea and the White Mountains are too distant for impressive effect. Around the mountain extend great forests, amid which rlinuners the league-loni: surface of Chase's Pond. There is a st ran ire old tradition that on this lordly peak were buried the remains of the inv-teriou- St. .\-pin<|iiid. a famous chief of the Pawtucket tribe of Indians, born in York in May. l.'iss. I'nder the preachinir of -John Kliot he became converted, and layinir aside his tomahawk and all the other implement- of -avairery. he traversed the forests from the Atlantic to the ('alil'oniia sea." pointinir out to the red men the way to the happy huntinir-irrounds and the home of the (iivat Spirit. A-pinquid wa- an object of \eiieration wherever lie went. In lil-l' he died, at the ripe a ire of :M year-, and \\a- buried with irivat pomp <>u I lie -miimii of Mount Airament ieii-. St. A-pinqiiid's tomb-lone \\a- to be -eeii up to ] 1 ^ . and in-cribeil on it in Indian words was the following couplet : 100 CHAPTER XIII. WEIiltS flfll) NORTH BERWICK. THE EASTERX AND WESTERX DIVISIONS. WELLS. OGUXQUIT. THE ELMS. KENXEBUXK. HFTER this pleasant digression down the shores of York and Kittery, we may return to the Portsmouth station, and resume our journey to the cool north. The route lies across the rural plains and through the forests of Kittery and York, in a pleasant and picturesque but thinly-peopled country. At Conway Junction, the people who are bound for Lake "Winnepesaukee and the White Moun- tains, for Conway and Jackson and the Glen House, leave our sea-shore train, and are borne off on the wings of the mountain-express. Their route is described in our companion-book devoted to the Mountains. A few miles farther on is North Berwick, a junction-point of consider- able importance. n The two chief divisions of the Boston & Maine Railroad cross each other at North Berwick, and the Eastern Division from this point northward becomes in reality the western route, lying farther inland than the other. In order to follow as closely as possible this famous coast, we may take one of the trains of the so-called Western Division. which brings us much nearer to Wells, Kennebunkport, Old Orchard, Scarborough. Pine Point, and the other resorts in this direction. Or if it is desired to reach these points from Boston without change. omitting the glimpses of the Massachusetts and New-Hampshire coasts hereinbefore alluded to. we may take the Western-Division train at the Haymarket-Square station, in Boston, and run through Maiden and Melrose and Waketield. to the great mills at Lawrence, and down the shore of the Merrimac to Bradford and Haverhill, past the venerable towers of Exeter and the busy factories of Dover and Salmon Falls. and so reach the junction-point at North Berwick. Not far from this station we come in sight of the joyous blue sea, beyond the fields and forests of Wells. Wells, the ancient Indian domain of Webhannet (whose name is perpetuated in one of its little rivers), received its present name about the year 1040. in memory of an ancient cathedral-town of England. The manor of Deputy-Governor Gorges was established here; and a part of it passed into the possession of the famous Rev. John Wheel- wright. whom Massachusetts had cast out of her bounds as a schis- 101 rnatic and a heretic. During the long Indian wars, the town suffered incredible things, and all its men were under arms. The long-drawn street of Wells village lies on the upland plain, between the railroad and the marshes that border the sea, and its white colonial houses command views far out to the level blue horizon. A mile and a half from the village, by the road, is Wells Beach, a long sandy strand, with one or two hotels, and a sea-view extending from Boon Island around to Cape Porpoise. Many years ago, this was one of the most popular resorts on the coast, but its large hotels, the Island-Ledge and the Atlantic, burned down, and the beach has never recovered its lost prestige. The town of Wells has eleven miles of ocean-coast, the greater part of which is in beaches of flue hard sand. Five miles south of Wells the quaint hamlet of Ogunquit nestles on the shore of the little haven where the Ogunquit Eiver enters the sea, between Israel's Head and Almet Hill. The people here live by the deep-sea and shore fisheries, sending their product in carts throughout a circuit of thirty miles inland. There are two or three small hotels (Maxwell, Ogunquit. etc.), visited in summer by people who enjoy the lonely contiguous beaches. It is but a few miles hence to the great clusters of hotels on York Beach, passing by the way of Bald-Head Cliti' and Cape Xeddick. and not far from the noble hill of Agamenlicus. As the train traverses the plateau of Wells, the great sea is visible for miles, Hashing like a broad silver shield at moriiinir, or toward evening a plain of deep sapphire, under the purpling eastern hori/.on. The antique square houses of Wells extend along the edu'e of the plateau, and farther out are projecting capes and beaches, breaking into the ocean-tides. Beyond Wells is the handsome station at The Elms (perhaps the future terminus of the York-Beach liailroad;. A short run through the woods leads to the station of Keimebunk. surrounded by pretty tlower-beds ; and oil' to the left rises the spire of 102 Kcnnebunk, a bright little manufacturing-village, famous for its noble elms and pleasant homes, in one of the most salubrious localities in all New England. In the old days, the people were obliged to dwell in strongly fortified garrisons, and suffered many an attack from Wawa and his brave Pequawket Indians. Later, they embarked in the manu- factures of iron and salt, along the river, and in maritime commerce. Twenty-five vessels from this town were captured by the French about the close of the last century, but the United-States Government has never reimbursed their owners. Hugh McCulloch, Secretary of the Treasury from 1SG5 to 18G9, was a native of Keimebmik. KAI.1> UK AD CLIKF, OliUNQUIT. 108 CHAPTER XIV. AN AXCIKXT MARITIME VILLAGE. A RIVKU FOU PLEASURE-BOATING. KKN.NKnrxK BKACH. CAPK POKPOISK. THE Kcnncbunkport Branch runs from the station of Kenm'bunk to tin- Port, four and a half miles, passing the stations of Par- sons. Kennebunk Beach, and (irove Station, and ending at the edicc of tin 1 Kenncbunk River, not far above its mouth, and near the site of the ship-yards whence the famous clippers Omni. Kiinj, Oct'ini (Juct')i, Jii-jiiihUf. ]!ei/il>r<'ni<~!t, and Xonftntttinwru launched. The railroad was built in lsx:>, since which time has occurred the marvel- lous development of this shore as a summer-re-sort. The rocky coast on the Arundel side of the river. Avith its noble surf, is complemented by IOIILT beaches of sand on the other side, stretching a\vay to the Mousani: and the lovely little river opening between, with its famous boating- and the venerable village, rich in architecture of the (ieor^ian era, all'ord many attractions to summer-visitors. The river received from its ancient Indian lords the name of Kouicbuiik, which in their lanmiaire meant -The Place of Smooth \Vati-r." Its mouth lies be- tween two jetties of ii'ranile blocks, erected by the 1'llited States aliollt half a century a^o. ( >n the north >ide is Cape Arundel. the site of tin- chief hotels; and on the south side of the river begins a line of sandy beaches, forming a part of the shore of AVells Bay. Nearly all the eoa-t mi both -ide- has been aeiiiiired by the Boston and Keimebunk- pnrt Sea--hore ('onipanv. and these M-VCII hundred aeres of beaches, cove--, and headland-; are divided into lots, ready for purchasers. The pleasant old village IT--IS alonu' the river, only a mile above its muth. \\ heiv the -hip-yards n-ed to be. ami the pier- for the accom- niodatiou of tin- -hippini:' \\hieh brought in snirar. mola- es. rum. and other \\'e-t-Indian and far-foreign comnn>dities foj- half of Maine. The cu-toin-hou-e -till remain-, but it- receipt- have -hninkeii ama/.inu'ly -iuee the lime of it- e-t ;il il i -hi neiit . in tin- remote year l-oo. '['he de- mure little biiildini:' -land- back by the Methodi-t Church, a monument of the T\rian pa-t. \\heii -;iilor- from thi- port followed 1'lue water all over the li'Iobe. 'I'lle river for -e\'eral miles ;|bo V e die Port all'ord- one of the be-t boatiiiir-places iii Xe\v 1-ji^Iaiid. a narrow and \\indini:' -I ream, bordered by moderateh liiuli l>ank-. n'reeii lield-. and -inilinir fai'm-. \\hile here and there beautiful bit- of midland come do\su to the water's edge. One of the chief amusements of visitors at the Port is rowing on this sylvan stream, an exercise which is made easy by favoring tides, and commends itself especially to ladies. At times there are carnival processions on the river, with illuminated boats, banners, and fire-works, and an almost Venetian splendor of decoration. The floral reviews, also, of the summer are full of beauty, when the canoes and dories and other boats drift along the stream, decked with festoons of wild flowers from the adjacent fields and forests, their crews dressed in colors to match their floral environments. When Capt. Weymouth sailed into this river, in 1G05, on the voyage of dis- covery initiated by Lord Arundel of Warclour, or when the adventur- ous Capt. John Smith glided up its deserted reaches nine years later, the graceful bark canoes of the Indians were its only shipping, and their rude wigwams afforded the only habitations. The favorite ex- cursion is to go up and come back with the tide, and from these peace- ful voyagers the sound of banjos is heard, and the voices of merry singers. On the neighboring roads you may ride to the Mousam-River Falls ; or up to the Shaker community at Alfred ; or to the ancient trees of the now desolate camp-grounds ; or to tranquil old Kennebunk ; or along the rock}' shore of Cape Arundel to Cape Porpoise, on one side, or down the sands to Lord's Point and Hart's Beach, on the other; or .to the cities of Biddeford and Saco. on the north. The roads are not the. best, but they are traversed continually by wagonettes and village carts and buckboards, filled with cheery excursionists. " A furlong or more away to the south, On the bar beyond the huge sea-walls That keep the channel and guard its mouth, The high, curved billow whitens and falls; And the racing tides through the granite gate, On their wild errands that will not wait, Forever, unresting, to and fro, Course with impetuous ebb and flow." John Toicnsend Trowbridge. The Parker House is at the edge of the village, fronting on the quaint old Congregational Church, and on the river, up near the aban- doned ship-yards. On the seaward edge of the village rises a great old mansion built in 1*10. with forty rooms, each with an open fire-place, and rare old interior fittings. It is occupied in summer by Pres. C. P. Clark, of the New York, Xew Haven & Hartford Railroad. Approach- ing Cape Arundel, along the course of the river, we come to the modern stone villa of the Rev. Dr. Edward L. Clark, of Xc\v York, back of which, and higher up. is the handsome mansion of the Talbots, of Massachusetts. Nearer the stream is a group of quaint neo-colonial cottages. On the Clark estate stands Seaward Cottage, a pleasant new summer boarding-house: and beyond arc the Nonantum and Highland Houses. A little way farther out rises the highland of Cape Arundel, 105 106 with the great Ocean-Bluff Hotel, the Cliff, Bickford, Arundel, and other houses for public entertainment, and the ancient and deserted Jerry-Smith farm-house, for scores of years the only building on the cape. Here also is Arundel Hall, the casino for concerts, theatricals, and dancing, on summer evenings the centre of all this joyous colony. Sea-blown willows and juniper, wild roses and golden-rod, bayberries and blackberries, wave over the sandy hill ; and here and there are pleasant little arbors, whence you may enjoy the vast marine panorama to the southward, Wells Beach, Bald-Head Cliff, Ogunquit, Cape Ned- dick, and the Nubble, with the round swell of Agamenticus, and the beautiful Bonnybeag Hills, in Sanford. The glorious eastward view, out to sea, is diversified only by the white sails of shipping low .down on the horizon, the changing colors of the waters, the varying cloud- architecture. On the upper part of the cape, opposite the Spouting Rock, rises the handsome cottage of J. T. Trowbridge, the author. On and near the bluff are the attractive summer-cottages of the Bancrofts, Spragues. Agncws, Nobles, Paines, Dexters, and other metropolitan families. Out on the extreme point, near the scanty ruins of the fort which was built to protect the harbor in 1812, is the new Episcopal chapel, a picturesque edifice of sea-beaten rock, with rich stained win- dows, rising on the very edge of the sea. In riding across Sunset Pasture by the old stage-road, you may get a fine view of a blue mountain-wall far away in the dim north-west, and this (they tell you) is the Presidential Range of the White Moun- tains. Down on the shore, beyond battalions of red lilies and ox-eyed daisies and thickets of spruce and fir, opens the famous Blowing Cave, where the surf rolls in furiously, only to be thrown out again in sheets and sprays of milk}* whiteness. Off shore lies the low and rock- bound Cedar Point, boldly facing the stress of the waves; and away to the northward gleams the light-house of Cape Porpoise. On the lower shore, westward of the river's mouth, stretches a line of beautiful sandy beaches, broken here and there by little points, and swept by resounding surf. Most of the people from the great hotels and cot t ayes on the Port side come hither when they want surf-bath- ing, and there is a ferryman at the mouth of the river who finds a large business in carrying passengers across from the blurt' to the bathing- beach. In driving down from the village, we pass the seventeenth- century garrison-house of the Mitchells, now owned, with its extensive farm, by Mr. John C. Mitchell, of Boston. Lord's Point, covered with cottages, lies in this direction: and to the seaward from Parson> sta- tion is the pleasant cottage-colony of Hart's Beach, owned and devel- oped by the Parsons family, natives of this region, and successful railroad magnates in New York. A mile or so eastward of the river is Vaughn's Island, high and rocky, and covering a hundred acres, with cold springs, groves of oaks, and a louir sea-front. This domain has been acquired by a syndicate, to be developed as a summer-resort, with a hotel and cottaires. 107 108 Cape Porpoise, something over two miles from Kennebunkport, is a queer old fishing-port, with a light-house off its harbor, and a few summer boarding-houses, the Langsford, Shiloh, and others, where the usual seaside amusements are practicable, amid quiet surroundings. Beyond this haven of fishermen, you may follow the trend of the coast to Goose Rocks and Fortune's Rocks. " Just back from a beach of Baud and shells, And shingle the tides leave oozy and clank, Summer and winter the old man dwells In his low brown house on the river-bank. Tempest and sea-fog sweep the hoar And wrinkled sand-drifts round his door, Where often I see him sit, as gray And weather-beaten and lonely as they. Coarse grasses wave on the arid swells In the wind; and two dwarf poplar-trees Seem hung all over with silver bells That tinkle and twinkle in sun and breeze. All else is desolate sand and stone : And here the old lobsterman lives alone : Nor other companionship has he But to sit in his house and gaze at the sea. I see him silently pushing out On the broad, bright gleam, at break of day ; * * * * And watch his lessening dory toss On the purple crests as he pulls across, Round reefs where silvery surges leap, And meets the dawn on the rosy deep. His soul, is it open to sea and sky? His spirit, alive to sound and sight? AVhat wondrous tints on the water lie, Wild, wavering, liquid realm of light! Between two glories looms the shape Of yon wood-crested, cool green cape, Sloping all round to foam-laced ledge, And cavern and cove, at the bright sea's edge." 109 110 CHAPTER XV. A]U) SflCO. TIIK OLD INDUSTRIAL CITIES. BIDDEFORD POOL. FORTUNE'S ROCKS. GOOSE ROCKS. S.vco. HFTER the mild vagary of this digression down the Kennebunkport Branch, we may rejoin the Portland train at Kennebunk, and ride for nearly ten miles through a rugged inland region, to the Saeo River. Biddeford and Saco are busy little twin cities at the falls of the Saco River, not far above its mouth, the one with ten thousand inhabi- tants, the other with eight thousand, and each enjoying the usual New-England quota of newspapers, churches, schools, hotels, and public libraries. Around the falls are great cotton-mills (Laconia and Pepperell) and other active manufacturing industries. The cotton- mills send their products in great quantities to China, and other far- away countries; and other manufactured products of this Yankee hive find their markets in Mexico. South America, and Italy. The site of Biddeford, with miles of the adjacent country, was granted by the Plymouth Company to John Oldham and Richard Vines, the latter of whom, after dwelling here for fifteen years, was glad to go away to the more genial climate of Barbadoes. selling his territory to Dr. Robert Child, of Boston, lie, in turn, sold it to Maj. William Phillips, who re-enforced the title by buying it also of the Indian sachem. Mogg Megone. Biddeford Pool, down near the mouth of the river, was in former days one of the pet resorts of the Maine seaboard, visited every return- ing summer by hundreds of city families. But a few years ago the chief hotels were burned down, and the remaining house (the Sea- View) and cottages hardly suffice to accommodate their would-be patrons. For the place lias great natural beantie* and advantages, which should be more fully and freely developed. The Pool itself is a shallow salt-water lagoon two mile> h>mr. filled high by the returning tides, and a Hording capital opportunities for safe boating, while to flu- eastward is a long sandy beach, rolled hard by the surf, and to the north, beyond the famous Wood-Nland I/nrlit. the eye rests contented on tlii' curving lines of Old-Orchard Headland the dim seaward pro- jection of Prout's Neck. On one side of the narrow outlet of the Pool rises the irrim little Fort Hill, where the colonists erected their stronc- Ill hold of Fort Mary, in 1708, after the truculent Indians had captured their stone fort up near the falls. For many years, from the early provincial times, the Pool was as beneficent as Riloam or Bethesda in the belief of the Maine farmers, who had a fancy that whoever bathed therein on the 2(>th day of June would be healed of all diseases. This is indeed the festival of Sts. Vigilius, Maxentius, and Anthelm, but what connection these Latin worthies may have had with the coast of Maine is not clear. A steamboat runs from Biddeford to Biddeford Pool twice daily, and crosses also to Camp Ellis, the terminus of the Old-Orchard-Beach Kailroad, where connection is made for Old-Orchard Beach. Fortune's Kocks and (loose Kocks, with their small hotels and clus- ters of cottages, are reached by stages from Biddeford; and their bold and rugged coast-scenery, and opportunities for fishing and gunning, attract many visitors. Fortune's Kocks is a series of iron-bound promontories projecting into the sea from the lower end of the mag- niticent beach running north to Biddeford Pool ; and lias cottagers from Boston, New York, Washington, and other cities, with lakes rich in water-lilies, and comfortable old farms on the landward side. The rocks allbrd a wonderful marine garden, where star-fish, sea-anemones, sea-urchins, and other strange creatures dwell, with seals sunning themselves on the outer ledges. The first settler of Saco was Councillor Kichard Bonython, whose son John made a hard fight against Massachusetts annexing Maine, wherefore some inimical person inscribed on his grave: " Here lien Bonython, sagamore of Saco; He lived a roitue, and died a knave, and went to Ilobbomocko." (The last word was Indian forsJie.nl.) In later years, the town had a large lumber-trade with the West Indie*, and turned out many a sca- nning vc'2 by Sir William Pepperrell. of Kit t cry . and *ince then occupied by the church, ceme- tery, and >chool-hou*e. Another local pleasure-ground is Eastman Park, occupying the site of the old Exchange CoH'ee-I loii>e. The sojourner in the tents of Saco should visit the lovely Laurel-Hill Ceme- tery; and the new building of the Thornton Academy ; and the inter- esting collection^ of tlie York Institute. Soon after leavinir the Biddeford Nation, the train cro--e~- the Saco on a IOIILT hridire. with intcivstinir prn-pect* on cither *idc: and in a few minute* beyond the street* of Saco. it roll> out on the beach at Old Orchard., with hiiire hotel* on either >ide. and the >ea whitening alonir the *and* under the \\indo\\s. 112 CHAPTER XVI. BEBCH. FERRY BEACH. OCEAN PARK. THE BEACH RAILROAD. THE HIS- TORIC "OLD ORCHARD." THE DAYS OF WAR. PINK POINT. SCARBOROUGH BEACH. DLD-ORCHARD Beach is the most popular of all the great sum- mer-resorts that line the coast of hundred-harbored Maine. It extends from the mouth of the Saco River to Scarborough, a dis- tance of six miles, a magnificent white esplanade of hard sand, shelving gradually away under the sea, and at low tide wide enough and firm enough to accommodate a battery of artillery deploj'ed. Here the children build their houses of sand ; and lovers stroll up and down in the sunshine or starlight ; and vigorous bathers run and leap after their battling with the electric surf. The great crescent of the beach looks straight out to sea, with the houses at Biddeford Pool on the right, and on the left Prout's Xeck, running out by Stratton's Island and Bluff Island. On one side are forests of fresh green pines, and on the other open measureless vistas over the salt blue sea. so that whithersoever the summer-breezes may come, they are always full of efreshing. This is not the bleak sandy selvage of a land of marshes a.id swamps, but the beautiful hills and woods and shaded roads come down close to the high-tide line, affording every variety of inland scen- ery, as fair as June on the Miami. The drives in every direction are interesting, and continually patronized by all manner of vehicles, from the lumbering beach-wagon to the natty dog-cart or the pretentious barouche. The roads to Scarborough, and into the Ross Woods, and out to Saco Falls, lead through interesting and diversified scenery; and the rambles through Fern Park, neglected but beautiful, are rich in floral beauty. The visitors at Old Orchard represent all parts of the country, and also include many distinguished Canadian families, since this is the favorite resort of the Montreal aristocracy. There are also many people from the Western States, and from below the famous line of Mason and Dixon. The summer-season is filled with all manner of entertainments, readings, musicales, balls, germans. roller-skating, camp-meetings, yachting-parties, floral carnivals, bowlimr. amaleur theatricals, tennis, base-ball, the diversions of visiting Grand-Army posts, lodges of 113 various secret mystic societies, Indians from the Penobscot, and gjpsies, and all these events are chronicled in the Old-Orchard ' Sea- Shell," the summer-time journal of this bit of Vanity Fair. Ferry Beach is a section of the great Old-Orchard Beach, about two miles west of the chief hotels, with the pleasant Bay-View House and a score of cottages. This locality has been frequented by Mrs. Stowe, Mr. Savage, and many other well-known people, who wish for more quiet and repose than may be found at Old Orchard itself. The pros- pects over the sea are very beautiful; and the neighborhood of the forest gives an added charm to this tranquil region. Ocean Park is the summer headquarters of the Free Baptists of New England, with their church, hotels, and cottages, tilled during every August with evangelical families. The tract includes a hundred and twenty acres, much of it covered with large pine-trees, and in the Ocean-Park Temple sixteen hundred persons can be seated. In the same vicinity is the camp-meeting ground of the Methodists, with its picturesque forest-amphitheatre, the scene of many an impassioned sermon. The western end of the beach used to be known as Bare-Knee Point, from a fancied resemblance. Thence extends the government break- water, a mile of huge granite blocks, finished in 1S7(> at a cost of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, and rendering the mouth of the Saco deeper and more easily navigable. This shore is remarkable for its seals, scores of which may be seen sunning themselves upon the rocks or along the sandy shoals. The beach is traversed by the Old- Orchard-Beach Railroad, whose trains leave the main-line station of the Boston & Maine Railroad a do/en or more times daily, and run down by Ocean Park and Ferry Beach to Camp Ellis, at the mouth of the Saco, where connection is made with the steamboat for Biddeford and Biddeford Pool. This marine ride along the crest of the beach is full of beauty and interest, and gives a succession of panoramic views of the blue sea and its islands and capes, with the various public houses and private cottages on the lower readies of the strand. The station at Old-Orchard Beach is one hundred and four miles from Boston and twelve miles from Portland, and may be reached from the former city in three and a quarter hours, by fast express-trains. The beach rail- road runs trains nearly every hour to the mouth of the Saco River. The lirst European who visited Old-Orchard Beach was ('apt. Rich- ard Vines, \\lio arrived here in the early autumn of li',n;. when the great forests, green and golden, scarlet and brown, came down un- broken to the water's verge, and innumerable sea-birds fearlessly ap- proached the little English bark. The lirst actual settler here was Richard Bonython. who built his loir-house on the east shore of the Saco. near its mouth. At this time, and for half a century after, the sea-beaches formed th only roads alonir the Maine coast, and were traversed continuallv bv the colonists, and b\- the train-baiuN of the 114 Province. These journeys were made on foot, since no horses were brought to Maine until the year 1658. Here, on the beach, dwelt John Bonython, the sagamore of Saco : " With blanket garb and buskined knee, And naught of the English fashion on, For he hates the race from which he sprung, And couches his word iu the Indian tongue." John was officially declared to be " an outlaw, a rebel, and unworthy of His Majesty's protection," for the deeds described in Whittier's early epic of " Mogg Megonc;" but in his old age he repented, and was received back among his people, and now sleeps in a grave near the beach. A worthier accession to the colony was Thomas Rogers, who cultivated a great farm at the mouth of Goose-Fair Brook, where the wild-geese used to flock in uncounted myriads. He established vine- yards here, and planted a famous orchard of apple-trees, which re- mained for a hundred and fifty years, and, in the gnarled winter of their old age, gave its present odd name to the beach. In 1G7G this valiant gardener beat off a furious attack of Indian warriors, and strewed the shore with their bodies ; but deeming such episodes ill- suited to the tranquil occupations of husbandry, he moved away to Kit- tery directly after, leaving " Rogers's Garden" to remain as merely a geographical title on the old coast-maps. His son and a party of young men returned to remove the furniture, but fell into an ambush on the beach and were exterminated. A few weeks later, a detachment of Pro- vincial troops were marching down the beach, at low tide, when sud- denly their talk of barracks and campaigns was drowned by the terrible war-whoop, coming from the pine woods of Camp Comfort, and volleys of arrows and gun-shots stretched many of them on the wet sands. The survivors took refuge behind Googin's Rocks, and repulsed several attacks, with heavy loss to the assailants ; and before the rising tide could drive them from this fastness, a company of troops from Saco Ferry came on to the scene, at double-quick, and the enemy sullenly retired. The advancing sea speedily cleared the battle-field of its dead. Near this point, at Saco Ferry, the first hotel in Maine was opened, in 1054, when Henry Waddock was licensed "to keep an ordinary to entertain strangers for their money." It was a thatched log-house, with beds of dried grass, hewn-timber floors, each end occupied by a great stone chimney, and furniture of simple domestic manufacture, except a few pieces brought from England. " Waddock's Ordinary " was successfully run for 104 years, until the building of the bridge at Biddeford turned all travel from this route, and left the old tavern stranded. Humphrey Scammon. its landlord in lUiss. was mowing his meadow one day, and his little son. bearing to him the family mug of beer, saw a war-party of Indians approaching. The lad carried back the mug, and put it on the dresser, and informed his mother of the un- welcome guests, who forthwith seized the whole family and carried 115 116 them off to Fryeburg and Canada. A year later they were permitted to return, at the dawn of peace, and found the old tavern cat mewing at the door, and the beer-mug still standing on the side-board. (This relic, with its etghed portrait of William of Orange, is still preserved in Saco, by a descendant of the family.) In later years, the beach became the scene of the Fontinalia, or mystic bathing-days, of the surrounding country, when thousands of yeomen came hither and dipped in the sea, believing that on the 2Gth day of June miraculous healing-powers were given to the waters. For many years, by a singular appropriateness, this Festival of Waters was appointed for the 2-ith of June, the day sacred to St. John the Baptist, but when the time for convening the General Court of the Province of Maine, at Saco, was fixed at June 25th, the day following was chosen as the one sacred to bathing in the sea ; and to the present time the summer-season at Old Orchard fairly begins on this auspicious date. In the good old days long before the war. people used to board in the adjacent farm-houses for a dollar a week, enjoying the plain and plentiful fare of Xew-England yeomen. The first summer-visitors came in 1837, and were entertained in his ancestral home by E. C. Staples, who afterwards became the founder and proprietor of the magnificent Old-Orchard House. A few of these early comers were Montreal people, who drove all the way from the Canadian metropolis in their own carriages, spending some weeks on the road. Great fires have occurred here which swept away many of the hotels, but they have been promptly rebuilt, in response to the popular demand. A few years ago, the beach village and its outlying territory became an independent township, seceding from Saco, and setting up its own local government. Pine Point projects into the sea at the eastern end of Old-Orchard Beach, and has three small summer-hotels, with plenty of fishing and shooting, boating and bathing, and a famous excellence of clam-bakes. Across the Scarborough River are the rugged shores of Front's Xeck. There arc many red-roofed summer-cottages here, and along Grand Beach, which runs thence to Old Orchard. The view from Blue-Point Hill is renowned for its beauty: and Dunstan Landing should be visited, and the Beach Ridges, along the Nonesuch River, and Scottow's Hill, and other interesting points. Scarborough Beach has been for many years a favorite resort in summer, with its Kirkwood and Atlantic Houses, having stages run- ning frequently to the station, and unobstructed views over tne broad Atlantic, dotted with the sails of the coasting-fleet, bound to and from Portland. The beach is two miles long, and gives plentiful opportuni- ties for marine diversions. bathing, fishing, etc.. while the border- ing forests abound in pleasant and sequestered rambles. Here Front's Xeck projects far into the sea. a secluded region of pine woods and surf-swept rocks, frequented by hundreds of old hnl>itiii'-x. Ilere are 117 the Checklcy, West-Point, Cammock, and other public houses; and near the surf stands the cottage and studio of the famous artist, Winslow Homer. It is not yet a fashionable place, but its happy fre- quenters find here all the charm and restfulncss of Nature, amid her choicest and most lovely scenes. There is a small Episcopal chapel out on the Neck, not far from the remains of the ancient fort, on Garrison Cove, which was besieged and captured by Mogg Megone's Indians in 1G7G. Several line cottages have been erected in this vicinity. East of Scarborough Beach is Higgins Beach, with its sum- mer-colony, extending to Spurwink River. In 1791 Scarborough had 22:55 inhabitants (600 more than now), and stood equal with Portland in population and importance. As Clarence Cook says: "Its position as a sea-port gave it some importance, and the society was far above what is ordinarily met with at such places." Among the local belles of those forgotten days was Eliza Southgate, whose delightful letters were recently published ; and also Miss Wads- worth, Gen. Peleg AVadsworth's daughter, and the mother of the po>et Longfellow. In the neighboring forests were many saw-mills, "those engines so useful for the destruction of wood and timber;" and the woods abounded in great game, deer, bears, and wolves. The first grantee of this region was Capt. Thomas Cammock. the nephew of the Earl of Warwick, who joyfully exchanged the sunny English Avon for the lonely Spurwink. destined to be so often ensan- guined by the blood of the colonists, slain by marauding Indians. Stratton, who preceded the doughty captain, lived on the island which still bears his name, much mistrusting his red-skinned neighbors of Owascoag. For they were gallant fellows, these aborigines, and at one time nearly annihilated a force of Massachusetts infantry that landed on the beach, leaving sixty slain Provincials on the Held. The bloody annals of this bit of shore are full of deeds of high emprise and heroic daring, for the handful of pioneers for many years successfully fought the swarms of forest Indians, led by skilful French otliccrs from Canada. And when the tocsin of a greater war sounded from Lexington. Scarborough sent tifty valiant soldiers into the field in a single dav. Soon after crossing Fore River, the train rumbles into the hand- some new I'liion Railway Station (under Bramhall Hill i in Portland, a long irranite structure, with a clock-tower, a train-house of iron and glass, and riclilv decorated interior halls. 118 CHAPTER XVII. PORTItflfiD. MUNJOY'S HILL. THE BOMBAIUXMEXT OF PORTLAND. FAMOUS NATIVES. A ROMANESQUE LIBKAKY. THE XEW LONGFELLOW STATUE. STATE STKEET. CAI J E ELIZABETH. CASCO BAY. CUSHING'S ISLAND. HAIJPSWELL. PORTLAND is one of the loveliest cities on the Atlantic coast, and Avill well repay the passing traveller for a sojourn of a few hours, or clays. It stands on a high and hilly peninsula a league long, between the noble square mile of the inner harbor (or Fore River) and the wide tidal basin of Back Cove, separating it from the shores of Deering. At its outer (or north-eastern) tip, the peninsula swells up into the bold height of Munjoy's Hill, commemorating some gallant Mountjoy of the colonial days, and crowned with a lighthouse- like observatory-tower, from which you may look down on the many green islands of Casco Bay, and the far-reaching ocean, while in the other direction the magnificent range of the White Mountains forms a pale-blue sierra on the horizon. Along Munjoy are the homes of the middle-class people, although there are also some attractive houses of wealthy families, especially upon the Eastern Promenade, famous for its wonderful views over sea and islands. In the old cemetery on Munjoy's Hill, where the founders of the town sleep, are the graves of the two young commanders of the American and British war-brigs Enterprise and Bosi-r. both slain in the glorious naval battle oft' Port- land Harbor, in isio. when the Yankee vessel prevailed over her antagonist, and brought her into this port. In the words of Long- fellow : " I remember the sea-light far away, IIow it thundered o'er the tide! And the dead captains, as they lay In their craves, o'erlooking the tranquil bay, Where they in kittle died." The landward end of the peninsula rises into Bramhall Hill, the fashionable residence-quarter, or West End. of the city, from whose Western Promenade may be gained a remarkable view of the White Mountains. Here are the handsome villas of the Brown. Davis. Hur- rowes. and other families, the best work of Portland's laudable archi- tects. iiK-n like Stevens and Fassett and their colleagues. Portland 119 VIEWS IN AM) Al'.UUNU PORTLAND. 120 has been likened to a lion couchant, with Munjoy's Hill for its head, and Congress Street for its spine, and the steep cross-streets for ribs. When the Court of Versailles decreed that Xew England should be devastated by its gallant captains and their Indian allies, one of the first blows fell on this settlement, when an army of Frenchmen and savages descended from the northern wilderness and destroyed the town (in 1690), and finally compelled the surrender of Fort Loyall (which stood near the present Grand-Trunk station). Time after time, in those bloody days, the place was desolated and ruined, and became known as "deserted Casco;" and after those dangers finally passed away forever, a new foeman appeared, in 1775, when, with five British Avar-ships. Capt. Mowatt bombarded the town and reduced it to ashes, parties of blue-jackets landing from the ships to set the torch to the buildings which had escaped damage from their batteries. What inter- esting chapters of local history are those describing the Portland fleet of privateers of 1S12-1.">. the rise of the rich merchants, the era of railroad construction, the city's contribution of five thousand soldiers to the National army in the Secession War. the quickly avenged capture of the United-States revenue-cutter Caleb Cu shiny in the harbor by a detachment of bold Confederate sailors, the Great Fire of 18(iG, which destroyed fifteen hundred buildings and six and a half million dol- lars' worth of property, and the subsequent re-construction of the city on a more metropolitan scale! The population of Portland is not far from thirty-six thousand. This '-fairest (laughter of Massachusetts" has won distinction by her famous sons. Longfellow and Willis and Fanny Fern and John Neal and Sidncv Luska in literature. Paul Akers and llarrv Brown in 121 art, the Prehlcs and Admiral Alden in naval history, Erastus and James Brooks (of New York) in journalism, and many others. In the ranks of local newspaper-writers have been numbered Elijah Kellogg, James G. Elaine, William Pitt Eessenden, Seba Smith, Prof. Morse, Ann S. Stephens, and others. Among the public buildings we may notice the city-hall, a handsome and spacious structure of Nova-Scotia sand-stone; the post-oHice, in rich classic architecture, of white Vermont marble ; and the custom- house, a modern granite edifice, down in the maritime quarter. One of the handsomest Romanesque buildings in America is the new public library, on Congress Street, whose symmetrical round arches and (f statuary would do honor to Ravenna or Rome. Here also arc the head- quarters of the Maine Historical Society and the Society of Arts, with their varied collections. At tin- crossing of Congress and State Streets is a noble broii/.e statue of Portland's most illustrious sou. Henry Wadswortli Long- fellow, representing the great poet, as sitting in an armchair, facing the ea>t. and holding a partly unrolled scroll. This capital work of art was designed by Franklin Simmons, a Maine sculptor, for many years resident in Home. The statue cost twelve thousand dollars. which was raised by public subscriptions : and the uiiveilinir and dedi- cation occurred in isss. in tin- presence of upwards of live thousand people. Among the notable and interesting churches of the citv are the 122 Episcopal Cathedral of St. Luke, the great Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, with a spire sixteen feet higher than Bunker- Hill Monument; the old First-Parish church (Unitarian), with heavy walls of granite and a quaint clock-tower; the Second-Parish church, of stone, and the First Baptist Church. The house in which Longfellow was born still stands at the corner of Fore and Hancock Streets, once a fashionable quarter, but now the dingiest part of the town, amid docks and elevators and railwaj's. It is occupied by several Irish families. Up in the busy residence-quarter, on Congress Street, stands the ancestral Wadsworth mansion, Long- fellow's abiding-place when lie visited Portland in later years. Next door is the Treble House, erected by an Italian architect in 10(>, for the home of Commodore Treble (Treble of Tripoli). State Street is one of the famous old residence-streets of "New England, with double rows of murmuring elms, and lines of great old mansions, dating from the days " Whi'ii men lived in a grander way, With ampler hospitality." As a centre of summer-excursions, Portland has many advantages, in its comfortable hotels, its beautiful and historic environs, its rail- 123 roads running in a few miles to many famous beach and lake resorts, and lines of steamboats to the islands of the harbor and Casco Bay, and outside to Squirrel Island, Damariscotta, and other points. Here, too, the Mount-Desert steamers may be taken, for longer voyages to the eastward, over the open sea. Among the interesting drives from Portland we may go out over Tukey's Bridge, by East Decring and the United-States Marine Hospital on Martin's Point, to Falmouth Fore- side, with magnificent views over Casco Bay ; or over the shell-road to Peering' s Oaks and Woodford's ; or to the beautiful Evergreen Ceme- tery, with its many monuments ; or to Pride's Bridge, on the gently- flowing Presumpscot River. There is a pleasant drive leading down the coast, by the great dry-docks and the ship-building hamlet of Knightville, to the ancient and favorably-known summer-resort called Cape Cottage, and to the unfinished fortifications and tall white light- house on Portland Head. The shore hereaway is remarkably bold and rocky, and in time of storm a tremendous surf rolls in, crashing upon the unyielding cliffs with a roar that is heard for miles. Farther down on this grand iron-bound coast stands the Ocean House, much visited by Canadians, and not far from the light-houses which sustain the Two Lights. The Spurwink River, Iliggins Beach, and Scarborough Beach lie beyond. All along this Cape-Elizabeth shore there are many summer-cottages, mainly pertaining to the gentry of Portland, the Browns, Lorings, Libbys, and other families, some of them, like the Goddard and Beckett places, being massively built of the native rock. The well-known Portland author, John Neal, be- gan this summer development in 1855, by the erection of the Cape Cottage. Around Pond Cove there are now a number of handsome places, including that of Edward Russell, of the Mercantile Agency; and at Yellow Head are the Loring cottages, overlooking the three forts and the outer islands. The best companion to rambles in and around the city is Hull's illustrated Handbook of Portland." Casco Bay is traversed continually by several lines of steamboats, bound for Freeport. Yarmouth, Harpsweli, Falmouth Foreside. Dama- riscotta, Cliebeague, Diamond Island. Cushing's Island, and many another locality, famous in the happy annals of summer-voyagers. It takes about an hour and a halt' to Harpswell. and the boats make several round-trips daily. The gem of the harbor is Cushing's Island, covering two hun- dred and fifty acres, and only three miles from the city, with which it is connected by frequent steamboats. On one side it faces to the northward, towards the beautiful Forest City, and on the other the lofty dill's confront the sea. which roars at their feet continually. The island is rich in groves of fir and spruce, whose perennial perfume mingles with the crisp sea-air to make a bracing draught for the lungs. A league or more of roads traverses the domain, leading from the pier 124 out to White Head, that great precipice which frowns down on the waves a hundred and fifty feet below. The Ottawa House, for many years favored by Canadian families as a summer-resort, was burned to the ground in 188G ; and in 1888 the present hotel of the same name rose on its site. A safe bathing-beach borders on the main ship- channel, close at hand. Elsewhere around the beautiful island are attractive summer-cottages, the beginnings of the future patrician colony that is to find its place here. The park-roads and shores and villa-sites and public buildings were laid out and arranged by Frederick Law Olmsted, the most famous of American landscape-gardeners, so that the best features of the island are adequately developed and made the most of. Looking up the harbor we sec the forts, Scammel and Treble and Gorges. the Portland Breakwater, the populous and spire- crowned hills of the city, and the fur-away range of the "White Moun- tains, nobly outlined against the remote horizon. Nearer at hand, the coasting-vessels, steamers, and ynohts fill the outer harbor with grace- ful life and animation: while off to the north-cast the multitudinous isles of Casco Bay are grouped in kaleidoscopic variation. On the other side is the great dominating ocean, broken only by the rocks of Ram Island, and extending away to the dim horizon's verge, beyond the wild flowers and berry-bushes, the evergreen groves, and spray- laden air. The island became the home of James Andrews in 1M7. and contained a primitive fortress, to which the people of Portland fled 125 when the French and Indian savages ravaged their homes. About the year 1850, it passed into the possession of Lemuel dishing, a Canadian gentleman, whose sons succeeded to the estate, and have been actively concerned in its development as a summer-resort. Another of the favorite harbor-resorts is Teak's Island, covering more than a square mile, and a hundred feet high in the centre, with its outer edge of rugged crags, broken and tormented by the surf. Several hundred people live here the year round ; and in summer the population is doubled, when the hotels iill up with guests, and the headlands are garrisoned by camping-parties. It is a more democratic resort than Oushing's Island, with greater relaxation from the strait lacings of life, and a more pervading atmosphere of mirth and uncon- ventionalism. The views over ocean and shore arc fine, and the sea- air overflows the region like a benediction. Farther up in Casco Bay, and visited by steamboats from Portland, are other pleasant islands, hundreds in number, with wave-embroidered shores anil groves of sturdy trees, and quiet beaches. On Little Che- beague, one of the most attractive of these, stands a comfortable hotel for summer-guests, among the oaks and evergreens, and look- ing out on the bay, the ocean, and the White Mountains. Great Che- beague covers two thousand acres, and has a considerable population of farmers and fishermen, with schools and churches, good roads, and one or two summer-hotels. Diamond has a group of summer-cottages, and several good beaches, with a wealth of oak and hickory groves. The artistic summer headquarters of the Portland Club stands on this island. Among the other interesting localities in Casco Bay are Long Island, with hotels and boarding-houses and cottages: Jewell's Island. 'lie summer-residence of James McKeen, Esq., of New York; and IIojv Island, with its quirt little hotel. Farther on, numberless lonely islets gem the blue waters, crowned with tall trees, and sheltering many a lovely cove and sandy beach. The Casco-Hay steamboats make several voyages daily from Port- land for fourteen miles through the fairy-like green archipelago to Harpswcll. a lonir sea-beaten peninsula on which there are several quiet little summer-hotels and farm boarding-houses. Whoever comes hither for a season should bring Mrs. Stowe's beautiful romance. " The Pearl of Orr's Island." whose scene is laid hore, amid the quaint llsher-folk who for centuries have dwelt about these sequestered coves. HIT'S Inland itself is contiguous to llarpswell. and joined to it by a highway bridge. Uroad oil' in the bay. live miles out. is Hagged I-laud. witli its two ancient houses, the scene of Elijah Kcllogg's Kim-Island" stories. Xor should we forget Whittier's powerful ball-id of --Tlie Dead Ship of llarpswell," preserving an old legend of the