Ex Libris 
 C. K. OGDEN ; 
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 3
 
 SOME 
 
 NOTES OF THE PAST, 
 
 1870-1891.
 
 SOME 
 
 NOTES OF THE PAST, 
 
 1870-1891. 
 
 BY THE RIGHT HON. 
 
 SIR HENBY DEUMMOND WOLFF, G.C.B.,G.C.M.G. 
 
 LONDON: 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
 1893.
 
 LONDON : 
 FEINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED. 
 
 STAMfOKD STBEET AND CKARING CROSS.
 
 J3C 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 The greater portion of this volume has 
 already been printed for distribution to 
 some private friends. The subject chiefly 
 treated has of late been revived into 
 prominence by Monsieur Zola's novel, " La 
 DelDacle." It has been suggested that the 
 notes, if published, might be interesting to 
 a larger number of readers, as presenting 
 an impartial narrative of personal ex- 
 periences and recollections.
 
 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Three Visits to the War in 1870 
 Prince Louis-Napoleon 
 Unwritten History 
 Mapame de Feucheres 
 The Prince Imperial .. 
 Prince Louis Lucien Bonapartk 
 
 PAGE 1 
 
 .. 109 
 
 .. 113 
 
 .. 123 
 
 .. 127 
 
 .. 132
 
 SOME NOTES OF THE PAST. 
 
 THREE VISITS TO THE WAE IN 1870.* 
 
 Spa, September 6th. 
 
 It was impossible to remain at Spa, so near 
 the seat of war, without attempting to see 
 something. On Friday morning last, 
 accompanied by Mr. Richard Baring and 
 Captain Johnson, I left Spa by the 6.10 
 train. At the station we found the Inde- 
 jjendance Beige, containing a telegram from 
 Bouillon, attributing the advantage to the 
 French. At Liege, however, we met a 
 German ambulance volunteer from Cologne, 
 wearing the brassard, w4io told us he had 
 
 * These letters to a friend were originally published with 
 the writer's name in the MorninQ Post. 
 
 B
 
 2 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 left Metz the Sunday previous, that Bazaine 
 was securely surrounded, and that the 
 report of his having effected his escape 
 must be untrue. As usual, all the Walloon 
 population believed and asserted the French 
 victory. It is extraordinary to find how 
 much in favour of France are the inha- 
 bitants of the frontier. During the whole 
 war we knew that bonnes nouvelles were 
 good news for the French, and mauvaises 
 nouvelles the reverse. In the interior of 
 Belgium the feeling is more in favour of 
 Prussia. 
 
 At the junction station of Marloie, 
 between thirty and forty miles from the 
 frontier, we were informed at the buffet 
 that the rolling of the cannon had been 
 heard the whole of the previous day till 
 between four and five. We learnt later 
 that the last gun had been fired at 5.15 p.m. 
 Here, however, the story was the same — 
 that M'Mahon had conquered.
 
 French Refugees. 3 
 
 At Jcmelle, a little lower down, the trutli 
 became evident. A train containing French 
 soldiers of all arms was drawn np at the 
 station, and a Belgian captain in charge of 
 them told some Belgian gentlemen in our 
 carriage that M'Mahon was enpleine deroute. 
 The French soldiers were refugees chased 
 across the frontier by Prussian cavalry. 
 The latter, on being informed that they had 
 transgressed the territory, at once retired. 
 The French threw down their arms and 
 constituted themselves prisoners. Some 
 Prussian prisoners had also been taken. 
 The French were to be sent to Beverloo, the 
 Prussians to Bruges. At Jemelle two 
 travellers who had left Spa the day before 
 — Mr. Bennett, an Irish gentleman, and 
 Mr. Thompson, a gentleman from New 
 York — got into the train. They were bent 
 on the same expedition as ourselves. At 
 Libramont they left to take the diligence to 
 Bouillon. We continued to the next station 
 
 B 2
 
 4 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 of Longlier, near Neufcliateau, from wliicli 
 place we hoped to get a carriage. In the 
 ■omnibus we found some volunteers for the 
 Belgian ambulance with the French army 
 going by Florenville to Carignan, and 
 Captain Johnson and myself offered to 
 volunteer, if necessary, for a short period. 
 This was found afterwards to be needless. 
 At Neufchateau we witnessed an extraor- 
 dinary discussion at the table cThote between 
 a French traveller and a Belgian ambulance 
 volunteer of Prussian proclivities. This, 
 liowever, ended peacefully. Strange to say, 
 tit Neufchateau the prevalent belief was 
 that the French were victorious. 
 
 Securing a pretty good carriage and a 
 stout pair of horses, we started for Bouillon 
 at about two o'clock. We saw nothing to 
 interest us at first beyond groups of French 
 peasants, refugees from the neighbourhood 
 of the battle-field, and some detachments of 
 Belgian soldiers. At last arriving at a
 
 Surrender of the French Army. 5 
 
 village about half-way, we stopped to water 
 our horses. Here two Belgian officers in 
 command of a strong detachment for the 
 first time gave us something like authentic- 
 details. The correspondent of a London 
 paper, which we afterwards learnt to be the 
 Pall Mall Gazette, had, a short time pre- 
 viously, passed on horseback on his way ta 
 the station at Libramont. He had in- 
 formed them of the surrender of M'Mahon's. 
 army and of the Emperor, M'Mahon being 
 severely wounded. This village was full of 
 French peasants, and the officer informed 
 us that the whole of the previous night he 
 and his troops had been collecting and 
 escorting French prisoners. Walking up a. 
 hill, leading from the village, we met a 
 poor French woman who had brought away 
 her two children, but had been unable to 
 obtain news of her husband. 
 
 At last, about six o'clock, we arrived at 
 Bouillon, which we found crowded by
 
 6 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 masses of eager people — French soldiers, 
 wounded and imwounded, French refugees, 
 Belgian troops, newspaper correspondents of 
 all nations, here and there a few Prussians. 
 On our arrival we met Mr. Bennett and Mr. 
 Thompson, who told us that they had been 
 looking for lodgings, hut could find none. 
 The hotel was full. At a cafe, at which we 
 enquired, the landlady had given up her 
 own room to a wounded French officer. At 
 another cafe we were offered the billiard 
 table, provided we would only go to bed at 
 eleven when the house closed. Few things 
 impressed me with the difference of peace 
 and war so much as the commotion at 
 Bouillon. It is a little town, beautifully 
 situated on the Semois, and very opulent. 
 With one other commune of Belgium, it 
 possesses so much landed property that not 
 only do its rents pay the whole taxes, but 
 the inhabitants receive at the end of each 
 year a dividend. Yet, notwithstanding its
 
 Neivs from Sedan. 7 
 
 insignificance, here it was for the moment 
 almost the focus of European interest. To 
 the credit of the inhabitants, it may be said 
 that they did not raise the prices of any- 
 thing except lodging. Whatever you 
 managed to procure was charged at the 
 ordinary rate. At length we contrived to 
 find a room to accommodate five on beds 
 and mattresses ranged round it. On our 
 way to the hotel we saw an officer of the 
 Russian service attached to the head- 
 quarters of the Prussian army. Prince 
 Mestchersky. I had known him previously, 
 but did not at once recognise him. I saw 
 him. later at the hotel, when he confirmed 
 the news we had heard. He had driven 
 over with a retired officer of the Prussian 
 army, now in command of the ambulance, 
 and wearing the brassard, though in 
 uniform. It appeared that on the 1st the 
 King had sent, in answer to the Emperor's 
 message, certain conditions which were to
 
 8 Some Notes of tlie Past. 
 
 be accepted by tlie latter by two o'clock on 
 the 2nd. As no firing bad been beard at 
 tbat bour it was inferred tliat tbe proposals 
 bad been accepted. It is impossible to 
 describe tbe scene presented at tlie botel 
 — numbers of persons eating a scrambling 
 dinner as best tbey could, all talking at 
 once and giving different versions of wbat 
 tbey bad seen and beard. Amongst otbers 
 present were tbe members of tbe Frencb 
 Legation at Brussels, as also some Austrians, 
 two Englisli correspondents, and several 
 Belgians and Frencb, one of wbom bad been 
 employed by tbe Ifoniteur, and bad tra- 
 velled witb a corps of Franc-tireurs. Some 
 Frencb correspondents were accompanied 
 by tbeir wives. All ascribed tbe Frencb 
 losses, in tbe first instance, to a total 
 absence of eclalreurs ; secondly, to inca- 
 pacity on tbe part of generals, especially of 
 De Failly ; wbile a few binted at treacbery. 
 Everybody bad seen sometbing, everybody
 
 At the Belgian Frontier. 9 
 
 had heard something, and every report was 
 contradictory. De Failly's corps had, how- 
 ever, evidently been surprised in a manner 
 impossible except from want of eclaireurs. 
 The officers were playing billiards or strol- 
 ling about, and the soldiers had been ordered 
 to take their guns to pieces and clean them. 
 While thus occupied they were attacked. 
 The description of the arrival of the French 
 stragglers was most harrowing. They had 
 marched for days, had eaten nothing for 
 forty-eight hours, and were fainting from 
 exhaustion and dejection. At length every 
 one seemed inclined for rest, and we went 
 to our room. At six in the morning we 
 started on our journey with scarcely an}'' 
 breakfast— only a cup of coffee and a sHce 
 of bad bread. Everything else had been 
 consumed. We provided ourselves, never- 
 theless, with two boxes of cigars to dis- 
 tribute to the soldiers. It was witli diffi- 
 culty we persuaded our driver to take us
 
 10 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 onward. His reluctance would, under other 
 circumstances, have been amusing. We 
 had to persuade and promise him at the end 
 of every kilometre. In a short time, after 
 passing through a beautiful country, we 
 arrived at the Belgian frontier, the houses 
 on all sides being full of wounded. We 
 were asked a few questions by the douaniers^ 
 who had no news to give us, and went on. 
 And now the whole scene changed with 
 suddenness. We were nearing the village 
 of La Chapelle, where there had been two 
 fights — one in which the Wurtemberg 
 forces had been worsted, the other which 
 had been fatal to the French atrainst the 
 Prussian Guard and the Saxons under the 
 Crown Prince of Saxony. Soon, on a 
 height, we came across a Prussian encamp- 
 ment on the left of the road. Troops of all 
 arms. Here we made our first acquaintance 
 with the Uhlans. We offered cigars to 
 those nearest us, who accepted them joyfully.
 
 The Prussian Army. 11 
 
 If the Britisli public want to do a kind act, 
 let them send cigars to the soldiers of both 
 armies. They value these more than meat 
 or drink or covering;. 
 
 As we reached the brow of the hill we 
 saw a staff officer riding up and down near 
 a waiTGron in the middle of the road. He 
 was not above a cigar. He told us that the 
 troops were moving. " Where to ? " we 
 asked. " To Paris, to dictate peace," was 
 the answer. We then enquired if we could 
 be allowed to go further. He said there 
 was nothing to prevent us, except that we 
 should perhaps find physical impediments 
 in the movements of the troops. A few 
 steps further took us to the top of the hill, 
 and here an extraordinary sight greeted us. 
 A valley on our left, the opposite side of 
 which was covered with Prussian troops ; 
 while on the hills around us, on our right, 
 the same uniforms were swarming. We 
 saw few tents, except tentes cVahri. But
 
 12 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 there were waggons, guns and tumbrils, and 
 ambulance waggons moving the wounded 
 in every direction. We now arrived at La 
 Cliapelle, which is situated in a gorge of 
 the hills. This was full of Prussian troops. 
 The houses and church contained wounded, 
 and French prisoners stood about. An 
 officer stopped us, accepted some cigars, and 
 then good-humouredly gave us leave to 
 proceed. He also told us that in the battle 
 the Times correspondent had been killed ; 
 and now began the sternest realities of war. 
 First, some dead horses in the fields, two 
 evidently killed by one shot ; next, a horse 
 lying across the road, a dead Zouave in a 
 ditch on the left — another further on the 
 right ; great wounds gaping in them — their 
 eyes open, with a glazed stare. Soon more 
 of them. The road was covered with debris 
 — cartridge cases torn open and showing 
 the form of a cross. Knapsacks everywhere, 
 tin cans, tin spoons, worsted epaulettes.
 
 Relics of the Fight. 13 
 
 parchment books, called " Livret d'Homme 
 de Troupe," pieces of music for the band, 
 letters, broken arms, bayonets, bullets. Of 
 these we picked up some specimens. I 
 have a bullet of the needle gun, the Saxon 
 gun and the chassepot and a chassepot 
 bayonet sword. I also took a livret belong- 
 ing to Couard, of the 33^™'' Regiment 
 d'Infanterie de Ligne, and a piece of music 
 — the bass part of two tunes ; on one side, 
 *' Quatre Hommes et un Caporal," on the 
 other "Le Mirliton." The livret was evi- 
 dently that of a young soldier, as it con- 
 tained no entries. 
 
 I have before me a bundle of letters, 
 sewn together, found by Mr. Bennett — the 
 correspondence of a soldier with the woman 
 he wished to marry and lier brother. It 
 is evident his own family were opposed to 
 the match and tried to excite his jealousy ; 
 the letters being protestations of love and 
 fidelity, complaints of the insults of his
 
 14 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 mother and sisters, and assurances that 
 " cette fois je ne vois plus Leboilier," Mr. 
 Thompson picked up a German Bible. 
 
 Some Saxon soldiers came near us. We 
 gave them cigars, and they offered to 
 accompany us over the field, which was on 
 the right of the road. It was planted with 
 mangel-wurzel, hut slippery and wet. It 
 had been raining all day. Here the dis- 
 order was more complete, and the sights 
 more sickening. There were few Prussian 
 corpses. It was evident that the French 
 had been destroyed by artillery. The place 
 was a hill, encircled by other hills, on each 
 of which the Prussians had been posted. 
 Here a man lay, the whole crown of his 
 head carried off. We saw the inside of his 
 skull like a basin. Another had been struck 
 on the lower part of his face. His forehead 
 and nose remained ; all the rest of his face 
 and the front of his neck blown away to the 
 chest. Other sights still worse. I observed.
 
 Givonne — Sedan. 15 
 
 however, the truth of what I had often 
 heard — that the faces of those dying of 
 gun-shot wounds are peaceful. Their hands 
 were clenched, as though in pain, but their 
 faces were calm. It is certainly a salutary 
 lesson to see a battle-field before the dead 
 are buried. Here are hundreds of brave 
 men slaughtered — and for what ? 
 
 Coming down again to the road we drove 
 forward and soon came to the village of 
 Givonne, about a mile from Sedan. Here 
 the scene again changed. French soldiers 
 and officers^ unarmed, were walking freely 
 about, tending the wounded, who occupied 
 every house, including the church. We 
 drove on through a " place " filled with 
 trees, and at last, turning round, suddenly 
 arrived in a covered way, and at the gate 
 of a fortified town. The road was full of 
 French soldiers. The drawbridge was up, 
 and we could not drive in. At that 
 moment came a detachment of soldiers of
 
 16 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 many regiments. We gave one or two 
 cigars. No sooner had we done so than 
 we were surrounded, almost with violence, 
 hands being stretched on every side into 
 the windows. One man entreated for a 
 cigar. " Donnez-moi un cigare, et je vous 
 donnerai dix sous," he said. It was melan- 
 choly to see the downcast looks of the 
 soldiers who had not received one when our 
 box was emptied. Fortunately, one of our 
 party had reserved a few in his pocket for 
 future use. The expressions used by these 
 men were most distressing. They did not 
 complain of the Prussians. " We are quite 
 worth them," they said ; " our officers have 
 betrayed us. We were ready to fight. 
 They did not know how to command. We 
 wanted to fire, and they forbade us." One 
 young fellow told us he had only been 
 seventeen days a soldier. Another said he 
 had only done the exercise four times when 
 he was sent to the war. At length an
 
 We Filter Sedan. 17 
 
 ofiScer ordered them off, asking them if 
 they were not ashamed to beg, adding to 
 us, rather gruffly, " You should not en- 
 courage this kind of thing." 
 
 Fearing to leave the carriage, which 
 contained our travelling bags, so near the 
 gate, we drove out about half a mile, 
 instructing the coachman to give the horses 
 something, and to try and find some food 
 for himself. We had already applied at a 
 haker's shop which was battered about with 
 shell. They said they were about to bake, 
 but at the moment we could find nothing. 
 Mr. Baring had bought at Liege, the day 
 before, half a chicken, and a roll, which 
 he kindly gave us, and we had a flask of 
 brandy. Leaving the carriage at Givonne 
 we went back to Sedan, and entered by a 
 hole in the wall near the drawbridge, 
 through which ran the gutter. We had 
 seen the French, both soldiers and peasants, 
 take this road. 
 
 C
 
 18 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 We were now in Sedan. It was filled 
 on the boulevard near the gate by crowds 
 of unarmed French soldiers, as well as of 
 the ordinary inhabitants. But there was 
 not a single Prussian. On our entry a 
 well-dressed woman, evidently well to do, 
 asked us if she could get safely to Balan. 
 She had left it to reassure a daughter who 
 lives at Sedan, and now wished to get 
 home. We told her that all was quiet, 
 that we had been civilly treated by the 
 Prussians, and that we heard they were 
 invitino- the inhabitants to return. We did 
 not know that Balan was one of the towns 
 burnt by the Germans, and I fear she 
 probably found her home destroyed. 
 
 We then asked a woman to direct us to 
 an hotel. She kindly desired a boy stand- 
 ing near to show us the way, and guided by 
 him we plunged into the town. Crossing 
 a bridge, we went down a street, at the 
 doors of which the inhabitants were stand-
 
 The Streets of Sedan. 19 
 
 ing, while hundreds of French, soldiers 
 were walking in the middle. No shops 
 were open but some cabarets. At last 
 we came to the main street, which was 
 densely crowded by soldiers making their 
 way to the corps de garde. At the corner 
 of one street was fixed a proclamation by 
 the Emperor, dated August 31. It ran 
 something thus : — " Success has not hitherto 
 followed onr arms. I have therefore 
 abandoned the command of the troops to 
 my marshals, and shall fight as a simple 
 soldier. Meanwhile I leave the Grovern- 
 ment to the Empress, who so well replaces 
 me at Paris. Our misfortunes should 
 animate all noble hearts. If there are 
 cowards they will be treated by military 
 law and the contempt of their neighbours." 
 After arriving at the corps de garde we 
 turned to the left to the inn. This we 
 found closed, and the boy then offered to 
 take us to the hotel, where " all the 
 
 c 2
 
 20 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 generals eat tlieir breakfast." We then 
 traversed the small " place " in which the 
 corps de garde was situated. It was now 
 crowded with soldiers, and in the midst was 
 a mounted general giving orders. Our 
 guide told us it was General Feuelon. 
 The agitation was immense. The soldiers 
 were evidently beyond the control of their 
 officers, who were patient with them, but 
 most disheartened in appearance. They 
 were being mustered to surrender to the 
 Prussians, who were to arrive at two. We 
 got through the crowd unperceived, but 
 as we turned up a back street to the hotel, 
 the crowd, though still considerable, was 
 not so dense, and the soldiers looked at us 
 in a very lowering manner. Mr. Bennett 
 offered one of them a cigar, which he 
 refused. Before the inn were some des- 
 perate-looking Turcos. We got to the 
 door, and asked for some food. There 
 was nothing for us, so we asked our
 
 Demoralization of Troops. 21 
 
 guide to take us back to the Bouillon 
 gate. 
 
 Passing down a street we found some 
 soldiers drunk, and brandishing weapons 
 with which the street was covered. Of 
 a sudden a cavalry detachment came past. 
 " Make way ! " shouted an officer. The 
 soldiers looked round and obeyed, makin": 
 grimaces. A mounted soldier offered ns 
 his cartouche-box. " Prenez 9a," he said. 
 I declined. He then threw it down saying, 
 *' Ya, done ! " and cursing it. Another 
 gave our boy guide his horse-pistol. The 
 streets were covered, as I have said, with 
 arms — cavalry swords, bent, battered and 
 broken, and chassepots. At last we reached 
 a boulevard running along the river, with 
 trees planted. This was still more strewn 
 with weapons of all kinds, and about 
 stood soldiers, drunk and furious, cursing, 
 quarrelling, shouting in every direction, 
 and looking at us dubiously. Some soldiers
 
 22 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 took up chassepots and dashed them against 
 the trees till they were broken ; others 
 broke swords. We were not sorry to arrive 
 at the gate. In the space before it were 
 lying dead horses, from which, as from 
 others, w^e had seen tlie soldiers cutting 
 out slices for food. On the gates was 
 a proclamation signed " De Wimpffen." I 
 confess to not having stopped to read it. 
 
 At length we were out of the gate. 
 Here was a crowd, but much diminished. 
 A horse, recently killed, was lying there. 
 A little further on Ave found a French 
 soldier threatening another, and finally 
 attacking him, saying, " You will find I 
 am not a coward, as you were yesterday." 
 
 "We found our carriage where we had 
 left it. The driver had procured hay for 
 the hoi'ses, but nothing for himself. The 
 bakery had not yet begun to bake. A 
 Frenchman asked us to take him across the 
 frontier. We were obliged to refuse, our
 
 Count StarpjUtz. 23 
 
 carriage being full. We now started 
 homewards. The rain had ceased for the 
 moment ; and when we arrived near the 
 field where the bodies lay, we found on our 
 right in the valley a division of Prussians 
 defiling up the hills. We stopped our 
 carriage, and, standing on the bank, looked 
 at them through glasses. At that moment 
 a detachment of Hussars rode up, and we 
 told our coachman to draw on one side. 
 The colonel, however, who turned out to 
 be a Count Starpflitz, a stern man of about 
 forty, asked who we were. We answered 
 that we were Englishmen who had left 
 Bouillon that morning for Sedan and were 
 returning. " Are you medical men ? " he 
 asked. " No." " Newspaper correspon- 
 dents ? " " No ; we are merely travellers. 
 We started from Bouillon and asked leave 
 of every successive officer to proceed." 
 " Where is your permit ? " " We liave 
 none, but here are our passports." "Is
 
 24 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 that your carriage ? " Then, looking at 
 our passports, English and American_, he 
 said : * You will go to the general at La 
 Chapelle and obtain a permit from him." 
 Turning to a corporal and a soldier, he 
 desired them to escort us. To our great 
 solace, we saw the latter place a cartouche 
 in his carbine. The corporal, however, 
 accepted a cigar, having first looked back 
 to see he ^vas not watched. 
 
 After a short walk we arrived at La 
 Ohapelle, which was full of troops on the 
 move. The rain had again begun. We 
 were at first left with some French 
 prisoners, then marched up and down the 
 village, through horses' legs and up to our 
 ankles in mud, till we arrived at the door 
 of a house, at which stood a fine, soldierly 
 looking general. We explained our posi- 
 tion. He was very civil — just glanced 
 at our passports, and told us they were 
 obliged to take precautions against the
 
 Behaviour of the Germans. 25 
 
 people of the country who were hostile. 
 He also asked us if we were not corre- 
 spondents. Then, taking a card from his 
 case, he wrote a word or two, and gave it 
 me, saying, " Here is my card ; give it to 
 any one you may meet and say I have 
 looked at your papers, et allez-vous-en." 
 I have the card still : " Yon Pape, General 
 Major und Commandeur der It Garde 
 Infanterie Division."* It appeared he had 
 received promotion, and had therefore 
 altered the words from " 2d Garde Infan- 
 terie Brigade " to those above. 
 
 After waiting for some time till the 
 troops had marched off we drove up the 
 hill^ and soon heard from some inhabitants 
 that they had seen the Emperor pass. 
 Further on we found an old woman, bent 
 and crippled. She told us she had left 
 Bazeille, one of the villages burnt by the 
 Prussians. She said she had been beaten 
 
 * Now Governor of Berlin, 1802.
 
 26 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 and maltreated, and she was dreadfully 
 bruised. All accounts seem to say the 
 Germans (Bavarians, I believe) behaved 
 severely at this village. One woman had 
 killed three wounded Prussian soldiers 
 with a revolver and was hanged in conse- 
 quence. Generally spealdng, however, I 
 heard good accounts of the Germans. The 
 French prisoners say they are kindly 
 treated. At La Cliapelle we gave two 
 Prussian soldiers cigars. They pointed to 
 a wounded French soldier saying, " Er 
 muss audi rauclienr He told us on our 
 enquiring in French that he was well 
 treated. 
 
 Approaching the Belgian frontier we 
 met some peasants returning home. They 
 asked our opinion, and we advised them to 
 continue. They had also seen the Emperor. 
 A little further on we came on a detach- 
 ment of Prussian Hussars. They are, I 
 believe, the first regiment of that arm, and
 
 TJie Emperor'' s Cortege. 27 
 
 are called by the French, " les Hussards de 
 la Morty They are dressed in black, with 
 a Death's Head and cross-bones on their 
 busbies. The dress is, however, not so 
 appalling as the description. The skull is 
 a great sprawling object straggling over 
 the busby, and the black uniforms look 
 shabby. The officers were grouped to- 
 gether. They all spoke French, and for- 
 tunately we still had a few cigars. They 
 told us that they had escorted the Emperor 
 to the frontier. There was somethino; 
 ominous in the choice of this corps for an 
 escort. On the frontier a Belgian escort 
 had relieved them. 
 
 We now arrived at the Douane. The 
 officers shyly asked us the usual question, 
 ^^Iiien a declarer? " Before long we joined 
 the hindermost horses of the Emperor's 
 train. The length of the corkuje was great. 
 We judged of it as it turned round over 
 a bridge at right angles with the main
 
 28 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 road. First his own carriage, a travelling 
 Berlin, then an open carriage ; after these 
 followed two or three carriages, somewhat 
 like prison vans, containing memhers of his 
 staff. I fancy they are what the French 
 call char-a-bancs. After these, fourgons, all 
 marked " Maison militaire de I'Empereur." 
 Next, a numher of horses, with Imperial 
 servants in their liveries. Magnificent 
 horses, I should say over 16 hands high, 
 mounted hy postilions, with glazed hats and 
 gay coats and scarlet waistcoats. These 
 are relays for his carriages ; hacks, saddle- 
 horses, chargers — horses beyond price 
 follow. A Belgian paper says there were 
 110. We come to Bouillon, and, leaving 
 our carriage, we walk along the Emperor's 
 train till we arrive at the hotel we had 
 dined at the night before. There the 
 Emperor had got down with his staff. 
 The crowd is enormous, well dressed and 
 enthusiastic. Belgian troops keep off the
 
 The Emperor. 29 
 
 people. Superior French officers walk 
 about, amongst them Prince Achille Murat, 
 in the dandy dress of the Chasseurs 
 d'Afrique. The Emperor comes to the 
 window ; I do not see him, but my friends 
 do. I hear the crowd shout " Vive I'Em- 
 pereiir ! " The French prisoners are silent. 
 The weather has cleared up, and the scene 
 is most animated in this pretty town. At 
 length we manage to get into the hotel. 
 Beds ? Impossible ! The Emperor and his 
 suite occupy them all, and the landlord has 
 been obliged to turn out the guests already 
 in the house. Dinner ? Impossible ! The 
 Emperor is about to sit down with twenty, 
 afterwards there is another dinner for 
 fifteen. At any rate, some bread and 
 butter and some wine. While I am eating 
 this in a back room, some of my comjoanions 
 see the Emperor, going down to dinner 
 with his suite. The crowd know his menu 
 — an omelette and boeuf pique'.
 
 30 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 Our driver now comes to say he can 
 find no billet for his horses, and that he 
 must start homewards at once. Mr. Bennett 
 and Mr. Thompson are looking for rooms. 
 "We have to decide at once, and drive off" to 
 Neiifchateau without them. 
 
 On consultation with our driver we first 
 go to Bertry, a village about six miles from 
 Libramont and nine miles from Neufcha- 
 teau. He thinks we may find a difficulty 
 about rooms at the latter place, on account 
 of the Belgian troops, so we stop at Bertry, 
 which looks at first unpromising, but where 
 we find a good supper and clean beds. 
 Everything. in the Ardennes is wonderfully 
 cheap. Our supper was excellent; our 
 beds, as I say, clean ; our breakfast good ; 
 and the charge for three travellers was 
 4 fr. each, in all 12 fr. Here we meet 
 Belgians who have scoured the frontier. 
 One of them has been at Paliseul, a 
 village full of French prisoners. The
 
 Lihramont^ 31 
 
 woods are full of horses belonging to French 
 cavalry. They are sold at 10 fr. and 
 20 fr. each. He has seen a Frenchman 
 detected in betraying his country to the 
 Prussians for 1h fr. a day. The French 
 tied him to a cart-wheel, and towed him 
 for two days twisting round and round. 
 He is not yet dead, but dying. 
 
 News had reached this place of the 
 Emperor's journey, and our carriage was 
 taken at first for his. The Belgian general 
 in command therefore sent for me to ask 
 me the latest news. We went to bed, and 
 thus closed the most remarkable day of my 
 life. 
 
 The next morning we engaged a carriage 
 to take us to Libramont, about six miles 
 distant. After driving a short distance 
 we perceived on a height behind us the 
 piqueurs of the Emperor, shortly followed 
 by his carriage and train. At Recogne, a 
 village three and a half kilometres from
 
 32 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 Libramont, we passed a detacliment of 
 Belgian artillery ready to receive him, and 
 soon after we reached our destination. A 
 train was about to start a little after eleven, 
 but we missed it purposely. 
 
 Shortly after, some carriages and horses 
 arrived ; with them a young Spaniard and 
 an Englislnnan. The Emperor stopped at 
 a house in the villaire for breakfast, and 
 some of his servants came to the cafe 
 where I was breakfasting. They were 
 more communicative than any I had met ; 
 in fact, we had all abstained from asking 
 any questions of the French officers. Many 
 of these were at Libramont, utterly broken 
 down and wretched. I saw one talking to 
 a lady, who was trying to console him. 
 "Yes," I heard him say, as the tears 
 streamed from his eyes, " but think of the 
 humiliation for France." 
 
 From one of the Emperor's staff I learned 
 that the Prussian artillery was overpower- 
 
 I 
 I
 
 French and Prussian Art'dlenj. 33 
 
 ing, and appears fully to demonstrate the 
 superiority of breech-loading over muzzle- 
 loading cannon. At Sedan there was no 
 cannon of a date later than 1815. He 
 added, " If the war continues, it must be 
 one of partisans and hand to hand. We 
 have no chance against the Prussian artil- 
 lery." At about two the Emperor came 
 in his carriage, drawn by four horses, to 
 the door of the station. A general officer 
 was with him, who, we were told, was 
 General Castelnau. He seemed Avell. His 
 features showed little emotion. He leant 
 heavily on the servant who helped him out, 
 but walked well. He wore a red kepi 
 embroidered in gold, and decorations on 
 his uniform. A despatch was given him, 
 and, after speaking to some of the French 
 legation and the Belgian authorities, he 
 sat down and wrote. He then walked on 
 the platform of the station, and on returning 
 to the waiting-room smoked a cigarette 
 
 D
 
 34 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 and read the Independance Beige. A special 
 train came for him, and he went off witli 
 his suite with General Chazal, the Belgian 
 commander-in-chief, General von Bezen, 
 a Prussian officer, and Prince von Lynar, 
 also a Prussian. 
 
 It was not yet time to be off, so after 
 an early dinner we stood waiting at the 
 station. This was full of French officers, 
 and also some Prussians. Of a sudden a 
 carriage drove up, containing the Duke of 
 Manchester, in the undress uniform of tlie 
 Huntingdonshire Yeomanry, and a gentle- 
 man who had been with him through the 
 campaign, Mr. Hartopp. They had been 
 in Sedan on horseback, shortly after our- 
 selves, and had almost met with rough 
 usage, the duke having been taken for a 
 German. 
 
 After these followed a gentleman on 
 horseback, with a servant. It was Mr. 
 Russell of the Times. He announced to
 
 Lihje. 35 
 
 us the death of Colonel Christopher Pem- 
 berton, the Times correspondent, whose 
 death had been mentioned to us by the 
 Prussian officer at La Chapelle. On his 
 way out, about six weeks ago, I had 
 travelled with him from Brussels to Pepin- 
 ster. He was full of animation at the 
 prospect of the war and his new employ- 
 ment. The train was late, and missed the 
 Liege train at Marloie. We slept at an 
 excellent hotel at a pretty town called 
 Marche, where we regaled and lodged 
 sumptuously, the charge for four persons 
 for dinner, bed, breakfast, a bottle of so- 
 called Leoville, and the "service," being 
 only 24 fr. 70 c. The next morning, at 
 Liege, we learnt that the Empress was 
 expected between ten and eleven. 
 
 D 2
 
 36 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 ON THE WAR FRONTIER. 
 
 Spa, Fept ember 20tli. 
 
 We left Escli on Monday morning. It is 
 a small frontier town in the Grand Ducliy 
 of Luxemburg, to which a railway has 
 lately been opened. I was travelhng with 
 Mr. Henry James, M.P.* We took with us 
 some thousands of cigars and other articles 
 subscribed at Spa for the wounded, and we 
 were furnished with a recommendation from 
 the North-German Minister at Brussels to 
 the Prussian authorities in the line of the 
 war. At Esch, by the assistance of the 
 Luxemburg Ambulance Society, we ob- 
 tained, as a conveyance, a common country 
 
 * Now Eight Hon. Sir Heury James, Q.C., M.P., late 
 Attorney-General.
 
 Prussian Bivouacs. 37 
 
 cart witli two horses. Planks were nailed 
 for seats across the sides ; clean straw was 
 placed inside. It contained our boxes, and 
 in case of need would have served for a 
 lodging. Our first stage was Briey, distant 
 about twelve or fifteen miles. Before lone- 
 we crossed the frontier, and at once per- 
 ceived the evidences of the Prussian army. 
 Isolated soldiers, occasionally a house with 
 the siofn of an ambulance. Now we came 
 to the relics of a Prussian bivouac — on 
 either side of the road grass fields bestrewn 
 with branches on which the soldiers had 
 lain, or of which they had made huts, and 
 short slakes planted in the ground to fasten 
 the cavalry horses. Wherever we came on 
 bivouacs — and this was often — we found 
 great use made of green branches. Some- 
 times we came across huts made of straw. 
 In the long avenue of poplars which border 
 French roads we frequently found sentry- 
 boxes picturesquely made with branches
 
 38 Some Notes of the Fast. 
 
 placed conically ngainst the trees. The 
 most striking marks of devastation on the 
 roads were the number of poplars cut down. 
 Briey is a small straggling town on the 
 side of a hill. The houses mostly bore the 
 sign of the G-eneva cross, indicating the 
 presence of wounded. On the walls were 
 posted proclamations, one declaring that 
 persons with arms, and found guilty of any 
 hostile act, would be shot ; another calling 
 on all persons having arms to deposit them 
 at the Hotel de Ville ; a third inviting any 
 householders having in their houses Frencli 
 wounded who had not been tended by 
 Prussian medical men to notify the fact 
 within twenty-four hours. At the inn we 
 met Mr. Sewell, the head of the English 
 Ambulance. We were much pleased with 
 the energy of his colleague, Mr. Syman, at 
 Esch. Mr. Sewell was about to start with 
 supplies for the different villages. He de- 
 clared himself well provided. We then
 
 Hospitals at Briey. 39 
 
 went round all the hospitals. Many of the 
 wounded had been taken away. Those left 
 had been wounded at the fight of Ste. Marie. 
 The houses were large and airy, the best 
 of them having been taken for hospitals — 
 the Hotel de Yille, the convent and some 
 private residences. All wounded were 
 kindly tended and with equal care. Some 
 of the sights were terrible. Men beyond 
 hope and in pain lying silently, and men 
 with slighter gradation of wounds ; here a 
 litter, there a stretcher or a coffin. The 
 French and Prussians were in separate 
 rooms. One hospital devoted to patients 
 with typhus we were not allowed to visit. 
 The superintendent of a house which had 
 been a school told us most distressing 
 anecdotes of the Germans. Most of them 
 had been educated men in respectable posi- 
 tions in life. One, a Saxon, told him he 
 had left a wife and ten children. 
 
 At a window we saw a French officer,
 
 40 Some A'^otes of the Past. 
 
 an elderly man and apparently of some 
 rank. He told us lie wanted for nothing, 
 that he had been well tended, and that the 
 wound in his lee; was fast healinc:. We 
 asked him how he had been treated. He 
 answered " Perfectly," and that all his 
 wants were fully supplied. While our 
 horses were getting ready we had a long 
 conversation with some of the inhabitants. 
 They asked us the news, scarcely being 
 able to credit the surrender of the Emperor. 
 They were strongly against him, saying, 
 however, that he had been disgracefully 
 deceived by those whose fortunes he had 
 made, and who turned against him in 
 adversit}^ All they wanted was peace. 
 They had heard vaguely of the Republic 
 being declared at Paris, and said, " Now 
 we have a Republic there is no chance of 
 peace. It is very well the Republicans at 
 Paris talking of war. They have had no 
 experience of it as we have. When they
 
 In the Track of War. 41 
 
 have had everything taken from them, 
 their homes invaded, and their crops de- 
 stroyed, they will know what war is, and 
 will he ready enough for peace." We asked 
 them how the Prussians had treated them. 
 They replied, one and all, that they could 
 not complain. They said, " The soldiers 
 must eat, and they eat up everything. 
 But they pay for it or give paper, which 
 will some day be paid, we suppose. Apart 
 from this, however, we cannot speak ill of 
 them. Of course in a time of war every- 
 thing is not rosewater, hut the conduct of 
 the Prussians has not been exaggerated, 
 and they have committed no outrage on 
 peaceable citizens." 
 
 Leaving Briey we started for Ste. Marie- 
 aux-Chenes, a distance of about eight miles, 
 the scene of a terrible battle, and now 
 almost exclusively occupied by hospitals. 
 On our way we passed by several posts of 
 Prussians and some bivouacs. Here and
 
 42 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 there crosses in fields and gardens sliowed 
 wliere the dead had been buried. As we 
 were driving down a hill, about two miles 
 from the village, we met a waggon con- 
 taining two or three military men in 
 uniform, but with the Johanniter cross and 
 the brassard. With them was a civilian. 
 To my surprise I recognised a German 
 gentleman I had known in London, who 
 had left for the army the moment war was 
 declared. He had been rejected as a 
 volunteer on account of his not having 
 previously served, and then joined the 
 Johanniters, where his assistance has been 
 most beneficial and highly appreciated. 
 He jumped down at once, and insisted on 
 returning with us to Ste. Marie, where 
 he offered to show us what was best worth 
 seeing, and to lodge us for the night. We 
 soon came to Ste. Marie. It is on the 
 high road to Metz, and situated on a large 
 plateau, round which has been the scene of
 
 Battle at St. Prlvat. 43 
 
 a fearful battle on the IStli of August. 
 Here the left wing of the Prussian army, 
 which extended along down to Gravelotte 
 and Pont-a-Mousson, had fought the right 
 of the French, entrenched about three- 
 quarters of a mile further up, at a 
 village called St. Privat-la-Montagne. The 
 Prussians had a hard time of it on the 
 j^lain, being uncovered and exposed to the 
 telling fire of the chassepot from the French 
 infantry protected by the walls of St. Privat. 
 In return thev could fire no small arms 
 with effect, and until their artillery was 
 brought up the losses inflicted were most 
 severe. At length, the heavy field guns 
 having completely destroyed the walls, the 
 Saxon cavalry charged the heights of 
 St. Privat with a deadly result, and the 
 French were forced within the walls of 
 Metz. 
 
 On the I4th took place the battle called 
 by the Prussians that of Courcelles, in
 
 44 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 wliicli were eno-aored the 1st and the 8th 
 corps cCarmee, On this day the Prussians 
 acknowledged a loss in killed and wounded 
 of 6000. 
 
 On the 16th the battle took place called 
 by the Prussians that of Mars-la-Tour. In 
 this they lost 15,600 men and 600 officers. 
 The coiys d'armee engaged were the 
 2nd Army, of which the 3rd Army Corps 
 bore the brunt, assisted by the Ttli and 
 the 10th. On the 18th the battle was 
 fought called by the Prussians that of 
 Rezonville. In this the 2nd Army Corps 
 and the Saxons lost 22,000. These figures 
 are the lowest estimate we received. 
 
 We had only time to deposit our heavy 
 baggage at the head-quarters of the Ambu- 
 lance Corps at Ste. Marie when our friend, 
 Mr. Schott, took us forward. We advanced 
 up the high road, bordered with poplars, 
 all the country round showing traces of 
 battle. Sheds were beins; built for barracks
 
 Ruins of St. Privat. 45 
 
 of planks sawn from trees recently cut 
 down. Bivouacs with the branch huts 
 were here and there visible. More than 
 once we came on a heap of knapsacks 
 in squares of from forty to fifty feet 
 that had fallen from shoulders that will 
 never again carry them. All about were 
 crosses, showing where the dead had been 
 buried by hundreds, and the atmosphere 
 was heavy with the smell of dead flesh 
 that pierced through the meagre earthen 
 coverlet. 
 
 After a short time we reached St. Privat. 
 Here we found a town in ruins. Every 
 house was without a roof, most of the walls 
 were battered down, and the muddy ground 
 was cumbered with old shoes, shreds of 
 knapsacks, scabbards, broken muskets, and 
 rags of clothing. The windows had been 
 taken, where not shattered, to assist in 
 building the barrack sheds, and the houses 
 stood roofless and windowless in their grim
 
 4G Some Notef< of the Past. 
 
 desolation. We went to the church. In 
 the churchyard were the tombstones, 
 shattered and upset. Those tliat remained 
 whole had been carefully ranged by the 
 Prussians against the only wall that was 
 standing. From one which had been un- 
 touched still hung by a piece of string the 
 bead wreath attached to it by mourners. 
 The church was completely unroofed, except 
 a narrow strip of the chancel, in which, 
 stood intact the gilded altar. The ground 
 was covered with debris. 
 
 At this place the Knight of St. John, 
 who was the head of the Ambulance Corps, 
 asked permission of a general to take us to 
 Bellevue, a height overlooking Metz. This 
 was at first refused, for fear of attracting 
 shells from the beleaguered, but we were 
 allowed to go on at our own risk as far as 
 we could on the high road. So on we 
 went, a Lutheran chaplain having joined 
 our party. We now arrived at a hamlet
 
 First View of Mete. 47 
 
 called Marengo. Another hamlet in the 
 neighbourhood is called Leipzig, and another 
 Jerusalem. Here, at Marengo, we again 
 communicated with a Prussian guard, who 
 allowed us to go on. The country was 
 covered with brushwood and forest. We 
 endeavoured to j3enetrate the brushwood on 
 the left, which gave the best view; but 
 two sentries started from the covert and 
 told us they had orders to stop all access. 
 We therefore advanced a little way up the 
 hill until, in silence and in the twilight, 
 we saw the town of Metz lying in the 
 valley before us. The town was distant 
 about eight kilometres — five English miles 
 — but the strongest of the forts, that of St. 
 Quentin, was within two kilometres. We 
 were within range. But all was quiet. 
 The high fort overlooked us. Between 
 that and the town, on a slope, was the 
 French encampment. The cathedral stood 
 forth prominently, and in the winding of
 
 48 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 the river stood an island, also covered by 
 masses of French troops. Between us and 
 the town lay the Prussian army, concealed 
 by the wood, their presence, as was evidenced 
 by the aim of the French artillery, un- 
 known to the besieged. We stood watching 
 for some time, till one or two guns sounding 
 from distant batteries warned us that the 
 fire might become general, so we turned 
 home to Ste. Marie. 
 
 On our return we were shown a sight we 
 had not noticed before. After the battle of 
 St. Privat 4000 wounded had been laid 
 side by side in the street ; and along it was 
 a dark margin, about ten feet in width, 
 clearly marked and formed by the satura- 
 tion of the blood in the macadamised road- 
 way. At the house of the ambulance 
 officers we found several Prussian officers 
 employed on this duty. Among others two 
 general officers, Knights of St. John, who 
 had come to see two men severely wounded.
 
 Experiences of the War. 49 
 
 I shall never forget the conversation of that 
 evening. There was no boasting, no exul- 
 tation. The French were spoken of with 
 admiration. Their own losses were men- 
 tioned with grief, and with a desire for 
 peace — a peace that should he certain and 
 durable, but without any strong desire for 
 territorial gains. What struck me most 
 was the enthusiastic confidence in their 
 King. His name recurred at frequent 
 intervals with expressions of the warmest 
 personal affection. The dinner was simple 
 — mutton, in a kind of Irish stew, and 
 potatoes. We were glad to be able to add 
 some provisions we had brought with us 
 from Spa. The only luxury they had was 
 a drink, half negus, half punch, which was 
 necessary to sustain them in their labours. 
 They told us anecdotes of the campaign, but 
 especially of their own service. One bat- 
 talion of the 24th Regiment had lost all 
 its officers, and were led into the town of 
 
 E
 
 50 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 St. Privat by a sergeant. Of the Guard, 
 70 officers had been buried at Ste. Marie, 
 and 200 were wounded. Scarcely a noble 
 family of Germany had escaped unscathed. 
 At first all had been in confusion with the 
 wounded till a Madame Simon had come to 
 23ut everything in order. Many ladies also 
 came in search of those they had lost — the 
 mother and widow of M. von Behrenfels, 
 and Princess Salm, the widow of the officer 
 who had followed the Emperor Maximilian 
 in his adventures. 
 
 Before going to bed we walked in the 
 street. From the window of almost every 
 house we heard the most fearful groans and 
 shriehs. The wounds inflicted by fragments 
 of French shells are awful. We were 
 shown to our rooms ; mattresses were spread 
 on the floor. It was plastered with rough 
 beams in the ceiling. In some parts of the 
 wall the plaster was broken off ; in others 
 it was spattered with blood. We had some
 
 Evidences of tlie F'Kjlit. 51 
 
 sheets not yet required for the ambulance. 
 My pillow was made of a bundle of worsted 
 stockings, sent by some charitable person 
 for the wounded. 
 
 The next morning, having left a good 
 supply of cigars, we started for Ars-sur- 
 Moselle. This road led us through nearly 
 the whole field of battle through Yerneville 
 to Gravelotte. Before leaving we had 
 picked up some bullets in the field near 
 Ste. Marie. All the arms had been collected, 
 but behind almost every tree were two or 
 three bullets, both French and Prussian. 
 The road to Ars-sur-Moselle was covered 
 by troops. At every village were barracks, 
 on nearly every knoll a bivouac. We saw 
 one large country house completely de- 
 stroyed. A long wall that enclosed another 
 was perforated with rough loopholes beaten 
 through the stone. Everywhere were houses 
 damaged by shell and bullets. Now we 
 saw a train of ambulance and provision 
 
 £ 2
 
 52 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 waggons, now a body of troops marching 
 on Metz. Everywhere we met with 
 civility, and nowhere, either from Prussian 
 soldiers or French peasants, did we find 
 any impediment or discourtesy. At one 
 place we found a railway being made to 
 skirt the town of Metz. Near the town of 
 Ars are some large ironworks ; at the end 
 of these along a narrow valley comes the 
 town, which was encumbered with waggons 
 of all kinds impeding our way. At last 
 by good fortune we neared the station ; a 
 train was about to start of enormous length, 
 nearly a quarter of a mile. Showing our 
 recommendation to the commandant, we 
 received an order of admission. The train 
 was one exclusively for sick and wounded. 
 It consisted of enormous vans of about 
 thirty feet long, marked to carry thirty 
 men or six horses. Beds and straw were 
 laid along the floors, and these were covered 
 with both French and Prussians, wounded,
 
 Arrival at Nancy. 53 
 
 or prostrate with typhus, etc., and about 
 
 to he taken to Nancy. The train moved 
 
 but slowly. On the Moselle we saw a 
 
 pontoon bridge, and everywhere traces of 
 
 the struggle. At all stations we stayed a 
 
 long time on account of the sick, so that 
 
 our progress was much delayed. The 
 
 delight of the poor men on obtaining 
 
 cigars from us was excessive. However ill 
 
 or prostrate, they asked or beckoned for 
 
 them, and I must once more beg you to 
 
 urge on those who are purveying for the 
 
 wounded to send a good supply of them. 
 
 At every place the demand was for cigars. 
 
 The supply is never sufficient. In Belgium 
 
 they can be had for a very small sum, and 
 
 those we took were much commended. In 
 
 our compartment was a young ambulance 
 
 officer from Aix-la-Chapelle, so ill that we 
 
 did not think he would last the journey. 
 
 On arriving at Nancy we found a great 
 
 crowd at the station. Numbers of peasants
 
 54 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 and others came to offer refreshments to 
 the prisoners, while surgeons superintended 
 the arrival of the sick. The waiting-rooms 
 had been turned into hospitals, with trestle 
 beds for those who could not bear further 
 motion, and wooden sheds outside the 
 station were in course of erection for the 
 same purpose. The station reeked of 
 chloride of lime, which was very necessary. 
 We were a long time getting into the 
 town. Carriages or omnibuses there were 
 none, of course, and porters were not 
 admitted into the station. At last we found 
 one with a truck, but now came a difficulty 
 in obtaining a room. We wandered in 
 vain from one hotel to another, every one 
 being filled under Prussian requisition, till 
 we hit upon a small one, not far from the 
 station, where we obtained clean, thougli 
 scanty, accommodation. The house was 
 full of officers and their servants, all very 
 Quiet, but not communicative. Few could
 
 Nancy. 55 
 
 speak anything but German, and we found 
 in the towns less cordiality than from the 
 Prussian authorities in the country districts. 
 About the town were posted proclamations 
 of different kinds relative to the adminis- 
 tration of the Grovernraent and province. 
 One regulated the manner in which taxes 
 were to be collected, offering a premium to 
 mayors and others for ready payment in 
 their districts. Another announced the 
 head-quarters of the King, while a third 
 related the catastrophe at Laon, and the 
 contusion received by Herzog Wilhelm. 
 
 The town was perfectly quiet, except for 
 the constant movement of soldiers. The 
 streets are very fine, and the place into 
 which the palace of Stanislas opens out is 
 very striking. Behind the palace is a 
 handsome wooded enclosure. Near it is 
 the Chapelle Ronde, a fine edifice, con- 
 taining the tombs of the dukes of Lorraine. 
 But the people were the most interesting
 
 56 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 study. They moved about in mournful- 
 ness, afraid to converse, as gatherings of 
 more than three were prohibited. Occasion- 
 ally a French sergent-de-ville or two mig'ht 
 be seen mildly advising those collected to 
 disperse. But the feeling seemed to be less 
 that of past annoyance than of misgiving 
 for the future. There was little news even 
 for the Prussians. Rumours there were 
 that the French had left Paris ; others that 
 Jules Favre had gone to the Prussian 
 head-quarters ; but newspapers had arrived 
 neither from Paris nor Grermany, and New 
 York was probably better informed than 
 this city of Lorraine, full of French as- 
 sociations, but crowded with German 
 troops. 
 
 At a cafe a curious trait struck me. I 
 had asked for a glass of liqueur. The 
 waiter brought me some brandy. I observed 
 this to his companion, who called him 
 back, saying, " This gentleman asked for
 
 A Patriotic Landlady. 57 
 
 liqueur, not brandy." He made no apology. 
 I then said to him in a low tone of voice, 
 " I am not a Prussian, so you might give 
 me some liqueur." His face at once 
 changed, and apologising, he said, " Let 
 me go and fetch it for you." 
 
 An interesting scene also took place at 
 the hotel the next mornino;. Our landladv 
 stood discussing with some Grerman officers 
 the chances of the war. One of them 
 observed in bad French, but good-naturedly, 
 " The French are brave, but they have no 
 more army." " No more army ! have not 
 we ? " she answered ; " I shall like to hear 
 what you will have to say about it in eight 
 days. And, after all, what have you done ? 
 M'Mahon's army was betrayed, but you 
 have failed to take Metz, or Strasburg, or 
 Bitche, or Thionville, or Toul, or Phals- 
 burg. So I do not think you have much 
 to boast of." I never saw anvtliinc: so 
 genial and good-tempered as the way in
 
 58 Sume Notes of the Past. 
 
 which her salhes were received — a mixture 
 of admiration and amusement. 
 
 The only instance I met with of ill-temper 
 on the 2^^rt of the Prussians was the day 
 after. A bridge passes over the railway. 
 The parapets of this are raised by a wooden 
 hoarding, evidently to prevent communi- 
 cation with detachments of French prisoners 
 sent througli to Germany. The approaches 
 to the bridge have, however, only a railing, 
 and sentries are stationed to keep the crowd 
 from the pavement near it. A train full of 
 prisoners arrived, and the crowd, naturally 
 anxious to see their fellow-countrymen, 
 pressed forward, not so far as the rails, but 
 over the kerb stone. I saw a Prussian 
 sentry strike a little boy very roughly with 
 the side of his bayonet, and push off two 
 respectable-looking peasant women very 
 brutall}'. The supT3ressed rage of the 
 Frenchmen near was painful to witness. 
 Had any officer been present the sentry
 
 Trains of Prisoners. 59 
 
 would have been probably puiiislied. I tell 
 the story, however, as it occurred. 
 
 As the train came in with a freight so 
 unaccustomed as a caro'o of French soldiers 
 conveyed through their own country to 
 imprisonment elsewhere, crowds flocked to 
 the stations with provisions of every kind 
 — soap, wine, linen and fruit in abundance. 
 They were not prevented giving these, but 
 there was evidently a great fear of the 
 communication on the part of the Prussians. 
 This was the reason, no doubt, of the crowd 
 being kept from the bridge. The anxiety 
 of some of them to see the soldiers was 
 painful. One woman came up to us and 
 implored us to say if we had seen the 
 figures 78 on any of the soldiers' caps. 
 Near me on the bridge stood a Frenchman 
 murmuring to himself, " Poor devils ! I 
 hope they will have the luck the otliers 
 had." I asked him what he meant, and he 
 evaded the question. I said, " I am not a
 
 60 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 Prussian spy," and showed him my pass- 
 port. He then told me that some days 
 previously, as a train of prisoners left 
 Nancy, a hody of Franc-tireurs had fired 
 on the driver, stopped the train, and re- 
 leased the prisoners. I do not know if this 
 be true, but there can be no doubt that 
 Franc-tireurs have been harassing the 
 Prussians very much in the outskirts. A 
 lady, the wife of a Prussian officer, at Nancy, 
 whom I saw later, told me of this, and said 
 it was not safe for a Prussian soldier to be 
 seen alone outside the town. The Franc- 
 tireurs had been hovering about every- 
 where, and Prussian detachments had been 
 sent out to disperse them. 
 
 The belief of the French in the system of 
 Prussian espionage is marvellous. My in- 
 formant was full of anecdotes. One he told 
 me of a Frenchwoman, the mistress of an 
 officer at Toul, who, having obtained a 
 pass to visit that place, brought back 
 
 I
 
 '' Nach Paris:' Gl 
 
 reports of the interior of the fortress to 
 some Prussian officers. One day, however, 
 she was overheard talking witli her sister 
 who had accompanied her, and she was 
 punished. 
 
 All day long trains were passing. One 
 w^ay they were filled with French prisoners 
 and wounded Germans, coming from Sedan 
 and Metz on their way to Germany. The 
 other way they carried crowds of fresh 
 German soldiers, principally of the Land- 
 wehr, towards the seat of war. The trains 
 from Germany were all bedecked with 
 green branches. The trucks and carriages 
 were marked in chalk " Nach Paris," and 
 the passengers were received with shouts 
 of applause, which they repeated from the 
 trains. On one train going to Germany 
 we saw a large open truck completely filled 
 with the helmets of the dead. The trains 
 travelled very slowly, especially at night, 
 from the fear of night attacks by Franc-
 
 62 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 tireurs, or lest the lines should have been 
 torn up by tlie peasantry. 
 
 Having obtained a pass by means of our 
 permit, we left Nancy in a second-class 
 carriaire for Biscliwiller, a town about six- 
 teen miles from Strasburg. Here we found 
 an excellent little hotel. In the course of 
 an evening walk we were somewhat startled 
 by the " Halte-da " of a Prussian sentry, 
 and the clang of his weapon as he emerged 
 from a thicket where he had been concealed. 
 From tbis place we prepared to get as near 
 as possible to Strasburg the next day. 
 There was the report of an armistice, con- 
 firmed by the circumstance that no firing- 
 had been heard throughout the day. 
 
 In the morning we found with some 
 difficulty a small wicker cart, drawn by an 
 active little horse, harnessed to the near 
 side of the pole. A leather seat was slung 
 across it, and the driver nailed a board in 
 front as a box. He was a pedlar from
 
 First View of Strashurg. 63 
 
 Baden. The board having broken from a 
 jolt, we stopped at a small inn to buy or 
 borrow another. Here we found a Parisian 
 girl and her mother, who had left Paris on 
 a visit to Bisch wilier two months before, 
 and now were detained from their home 
 indefinitely. They were anxious for news, 
 but we were as ignorant as themselves. 
 After a long drive through a pretty 
 country and several large villages, or rather 
 small towns, we arrived at Yendenheim, in 
 ordinary times the first station from Stras- 
 burg, and now a very important Prussian 
 position. This was the first occasion on 
 which our pass had been looked at except 
 at a station. Here we found the ground 
 covered with field guns and stores. Sheds 
 were being built round them as barracks for 
 the men, many of whom were still bivou- 
 acking under branches or straw huts. 
 Gabions and fascines were being manu- 
 factured. Now the steeple of Strasburg
 
 64 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 Cathedra], which we had before seen, 
 beconies still plainer. 
 
 Going on towards Strasburg, we found 
 the peasants at their work in the fields, 
 apparently unheeding what was going on 
 so near them. Their chief occupation 
 was hop-picking. The guns were booming, 
 occasionally relieved by the sharp crack 
 of rifles. At length a mounted patrol ad- 
 vised us not to go beyond a certain patch 
 of hops standing alone near the road. As 
 we saw peasants working there, however, 
 we advanced further till we arrived at the 
 fourth kilometre stone out of Strasburg. 
 Here, on the right, we found a large 
 detachment of troops moving under a 
 trench. They advised us not to go further 
 on the road, but said we might take a 
 road at right angles on the left, which led 
 to a village called Bischheim. As we 
 advanced along this road, which inclined 
 towards Strasburg, the firing became more
 
 Under Fire. 65 
 
 rapid, and we saw the masses of white smoke 
 blowing over the hill which lay between us 
 and the basin in which the town is hidden. 
 After walking about a mile we reached 
 Bischheim. Here we found troops in 
 constant movement, and some waggons we 
 had previously met laden with gabions 
 going to the trenches. 
 
 The street now again turns at right 
 angles, leading directly towards Strasburg. 
 We see houses which have been shelled, 
 their roofs looking something like bricks in 
 a kiln. The shells fall in through the roof, 
 then burst, blowing the tiles off the house 
 from the inside. We ask of a sentry how 
 far we may go. He points out to a mark 
 in the road about 100 yards before us, and 
 beyond a very damaged house, saying that 
 it is forbidden to go further. Some French- 
 men standing near a wine shop tell us that 
 shells fall frequently in the street, but that 
 the village being French tlic 
 
 F
 
 6G Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 spares it as much as possible. I ask him 
 whether he knows how the garrison is 
 supphed. Looking suspiciously, he answers, 
 " I do not know much about it, Init I am 
 certain it is well supplied for at least five 
 or six months." A road to the left slopes 
 towards the town behind the shattered 
 house. It is marked : " Road to the first 
 parallel." Down this go the waggons with 
 the gabions. We follow them some yards, 
 the sound of the guns getting nearer and 
 nearer. The streets are more lonely; there 
 are no loungers. The houses are empty. 
 We turn to the right up a small street, the 
 houses of which are all more or less injured. 
 At last we come to a house facing the town. 
 There is a low wall surmounted by a paling. 
 Mr. James jumps on the wall, and shouts to 
 me to come, as he can see everything. We 
 get up, and before us lies the whole town — 
 the cathedral with its walls damaged, the 
 Prussian batteries pouring forth their shot,
 
 The Siege of Stra-^hiny. G7 
 
 and the smoke from the town answering. 
 Of a sudden we hear near us the pirr of a 
 shelL We jump down, then get up again 
 to take one more look. We find that in a 
 dip of the garden not forty feet below us 
 there is a Prussian battery. We have been 
 doubtless seen from the town with our 
 glasses behind the palings, and the shot 
 was_, to use a French phrase, a notre adresse. 
 We make the best of our way off — not too 
 soon : we had scarcely got down a few yards 
 when other shells fly across the street over 
 the opposite houses, and fall in the main 
 street, at the very point which had been 
 marked out as dangerous. On turning 
 round we find a printed indication we had 
 not before seen — "Road to tlie 8th Battery." 
 We had been within a mile of the cathedral. 
 Driving a little way uji the road,, we 
 stopped to luncheon, and were joined by 
 some Prussian soldiers, who were glad to 
 receive some cigars and a bottle of kirsch- 
 
 F 2
 
 68 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 wasser our driver fortunately had brought 
 with him. We then drove home the same 
 way. It was curious to notice the grada- 
 tions of sound of the cannon. As we left 
 the place the reports became fainter and 
 fainter ; but there are two guns of some 
 large size, whose roar we heard plainly for 
 many miles off. At Brumath, where we 
 stopped to bait our brave little horse, it 
 was dark. We went into a Eoman Catholic 
 church, entirely filled by women. Two 
 women were reading a sort of Litany in 
 German, and other women responded. As 
 we left Brumath we perceived for the first 
 time in the clouds the reflection of the shells 
 fired from Strasburg. This continued for 
 a long time, like flashes of summer lightning. 
 Once, when we neared Bischwiller, we 
 thought we heard the report of firearms. 
 
 Early next aay we left our hotel to catch 
 a train for Hagenau, whence we hoped to 
 see the field of Woerth. Trains were very
 
 An Enfant de Troupe. 69 
 
 irregular, the only fixed one being the mail 
 train, at seven in the evening. Special 
 ones were, however, constantly coming. 
 Ill-luck, however, pursued us this day. No 
 train arrived till 5 p.m., and all this time 
 we were wasting our time at the station. 
 Here we met a French soldier who had 
 fallen ill after Sedan, and had been 
 tended at Bischwiller. He had been a 
 soldier from childhood, an enfant de troupe. 
 For three days previous to the fighting 
 off Sedan he had received only two biscuits, 
 and the troops had been nearly starved 
 before the battle. He was very indignant 
 against the Emperor, and against the 
 generals, as was a young man whose family 
 resided in a village close to Strasburg, but 
 who was going to join his mother at 
 Weissenburg. His father remained at his 
 own house at Schiltigheim, or as it is com- 
 monly called, Schellig. The house had as 
 yet escaped, but his father lived in the
 
 70 Some Note-'i of the Past. 
 
 cellar. We found hiin^ — as, indeed, were 
 all the inhabitants of the conquered territory 
 — most loyal to his country, but allowing 
 that the conquerors had behaved with all 
 the indulgence possible in war time. He 
 confirmed the news of the supplies at 
 Strasburg, saying that before the war every 
 brewer had sent 1000 sacks of malt into 
 the town. We also met an English gentle- 
 man who keeps an educational institution 
 on the Rhine, together with some of his 
 pupils, who, knapsacks on their backs, were 
 exploring the fields of battle. He gave me 
 some interesting details of the military 
 organisation of Prussia. By his account 
 Prussia must now have under arms, in and 
 out of France, 1,500,000 men. 
 
 At five o'clock the train arrived, and we 
 took our ]3laces to Weissenburg, for tlie 
 first time paying our fare. We advanced 
 with great slowness, staying a long time at 
 every station. At about half-past nine we 
 
 I
 
 Saarbriick, 71 
 
 found ourselves at Soultz-sous-Forets, about 
 fifteen miles from our starting-place. Here 
 we stayed some time. At last we moved 
 on, but Lad not advanced a mile when we 
 were stopped by signal, and forced to return. 
 This was to allow the passage of the mail 
 train which had left some two hours after 
 us. On our arrival at Weissenburg we 
 found it hopeless to get further that night. 
 The town was fully occupied, and we could 
 find only a species of barn at a third-rate 
 inn, in wliich mattresses were hurriedly 
 thrown down for us. This was our worst 
 night's lodging. The next morning we 
 went by the regular train to Neunkirchen. 
 Here we breakfasted. The town was full of 
 rinderpest, and having passed a circle in 
 which the disease raged, we were not 
 allowed to return into the town until we 
 had undergone a fumigation in a sentry 
 box. Later in the day we arrived at 
 Saarbriick. The station still bore the signs
 
 72 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 of bombardment, thoiigli these were being 
 fast repaired. Near the heights we saw the 
 grave of 311 killed^ of whom forty-one 
 were French, among them those of General 
 von Francois, and near it that of Lieu- 
 tenant von Fran^'ois — I believe his son. A 
 German peasant who had spent four years 
 in Missouri was attending to the graves. 
 We brought away some broken pieces of 
 shell from the field, the spot where the 
 Prince Imperial had watched the battle 
 with his father. At Saarbriick we met 
 Mr. Charles Winn, a son of Lord Headley, 
 who had followed the whole campaign with 
 General von Goeben's division, the 8th 
 Army Corps. The account he gave us was 
 most interesting, and it is to be hoped he 
 will make it public. 
 
 Although we had taken our tickets to 
 Luxemburg we were informed at Couz that 
 the train would not go as far ; so we had 
 no alternative but to sleep at Treves. I
 
 Conduct of German Trooji^. 73 
 
 think it right to add my behef, in which 
 Mr. James also concurs, that there have 
 been but very rare cases of undue harshness 
 or oj^pression on the part of the German 
 troops. They readily acknowledged the 
 courage and devotion of the French, attri- 
 buting their defeat entirely to bad general- 
 ship. We traversed a considerable part of 
 the conquered territory. We never once 
 saw a drunken man, nor heard but once an 
 angry word, nor witnessed arrogance or 
 exultation. The desire of the German 
 army is for a secure and permanent peace. 
 If that be obtained, I am convinced they 
 will not be the first to break it.
 
 74 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 A VISIT TO THE FALLEN CITIES. 
 
 Hotel dc France, Nancy, 
 October 13tb. 
 
 We left Spa for Mayence, arriving there 
 the same night. Our passports were not 
 even asked for at Herbesthal, the frontier, 
 nor was our baggage examined. Hei'e and 
 there we saw the brassard, and occasionally 
 some soldiers. At Cologne the trees of the 
 avenues round the town were all cut down. 
 But we saw no further signs of the war 
 within Prussian territory, except at Mayence 
 a convoy of French prisoners. Leaving 
 Mayence the next day we took the train for 
 Baden. This was slow, and indeed at
 
 Baden. 75 
 
 present all the trains are uncertain. We 
 had crowds of fellow-passengers. Strasburg 
 is a resort for all the sightseekers in 
 Germany. It is compensating Baden for 
 its ill-luck in having shut up its gambling- 
 tables since July. Though cold, damp and 
 gloomy, and with its avenues empty, Baden 
 has now her hotels well filled. On the road 
 there was a little news, a telegram was 
 sold by hawkers of the sortie from Metz on 
 the 8th, and we learnt from two English 
 travellers that the Duke of Nassau, whose 
 death was reported, had never left Frank- 
 fort, but was still there. 
 
 We left Baden very earl}^ in the morning, 
 to escape the great crowd bound for Stras- 
 burg by the later train. Our precaution, 
 liowever, was not of much use. Tlie train 
 was crowded and late. In our carriage 
 were two German gentlemen, one from 
 Cologne, the other a resident in Strasburg. 
 His family had been at Baden throughotit
 
 76 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 the siege, but he himself had remained to 
 look after his business. He gave us full 
 details and in a most interesting manner. 
 In one malt factory 700 poor people had 
 taken refuge, the safest place they could 
 find. Here, even, the shells had fallen 
 incessantly. On one occasion thirty-seven 
 had fallen in twenty minutes. The provi- 
 sions had not been wanting during the siege 
 except meat and milk, the former being 
 supplied by horse flesh. The first bombs 
 were fired on the 13th of August till the 
 15th. There was a rest till the 18th and 
 19th, and again till the 23rd. From that 
 date the fire was kept up continuously till 
 the day of the surrender, September 28th. 
 At first every kind of false telegram was 
 circulated of French successes, both at Paris 
 and Metz ; but, notwithstanding, the army 
 was quite disorganised, the soldiers, who 
 for many years had committed unpunished 
 outrages on the inhabitants, got drunk and
 
 The Gardes Mobiles. 77 
 
 blundered. The Mobiles did not attend 
 except when they liked — some officers ab- 
 senting themselves for weeks at a time. 
 There were no artillery except some marine 
 artillerymen who had been sent to man 
 gunboats on the Ehine, of which there 
 were several under Admiral Excelmans 
 and Captain Dupetit Thenars. These, only 
 about forty in number, had worked day and 
 night, and endeavoured to break in some of 
 the young Mobiles to man the guns. At 
 Strasburg everyone speaks well of these 
 two officers and their men — the former, the 
 citizens rank as high as General Uhrich for 
 the defence of the place. The inhabitants 
 differed as to the surrender, but it became 
 necessary at last to prevent an assault, 
 which by the laws of war justifies pillage. 
 In answer to an enquiry as to the feelings 
 of the town towards the Prussians, and on 
 the question of annexation, my informant, 
 who was very fair, replied that the Pro-
 
 78 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 testants had been far from averse to tlie 
 Prussians, while the Roman Cathohcs were 
 strongly against them. The latter had been 
 told that the first act of the Prussians, if 
 victorious, would be to force them to become 
 Protestant. But the whole population was 
 indignant at the town having been uselessly 
 bombarded, and this with incendiary bombs. 
 I asked whether this had not been done in 
 retaliation for the bombardment of Kehl. 
 He most distinctly answered in the negative. 
 The bombardment of Strasburg town by the 
 Prussians had preceded the bombardment 
 of Kehl, which was begun as an act of 
 retaliation. The havoc was awful. All 
 the manuscripts in the library had been 
 destroyed ; as the building adjoined a large 
 Protestant church it was thought safe, but 
 the Prussians did not respect it. The 
 Roman Catholic bishop reported to be dead 
 is still living. A Protestant minister, 
 however, who took a strong part in negotia-
 
 Kehl and Strashurg. 79 
 
 tions for a surrender, has died through old 
 age, anxiety and fatigue. 
 
 We are now arrived at Kehl, where we 
 take a carriage, or rather a cart, for Stras- 
 burg. Our party consists, besides myself, 
 of Mr. Alfred Seymour, M.P., who had 
 accompanied me from Spa, and the two 
 G-erman gentlemen we had met in the train. 
 After driving a few yards, began the scene 
 of desolation we had to encounter for some 
 hours. Houses completely destroyed, houses 
 half destroyed, whole streets through the 
 windows of which nothing could be seen 
 but daylight, heaps of ruined bricks, tiles 
 and stones, all ending with the railway 
 station, almost equally in ruins. A great 
 portion of the bridge of boats has been 
 destroyed, but it is sufficiently repaired, 
 though on a smaller scale, for traffic. The 
 first portion of the railway bridge on the 
 Kehl side, made for turning, is much 
 damaged, but the rest is intact. Near the
 
 80 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 bridge is a plank-covered passage, through 
 which travellers from France must pass to 
 be disinfected of the rinderpest. 
 
 On the Strasburg side of the river every- 
 thing is destroyed — the French Custom 
 House and Gendarmerie, and every other 
 building. Trees are laid low and gardens 
 devastated. No square foot of land has 
 escaped. Now we pass some miles of road 
 lately bordered by an avenue of sycamore 
 trees, planes and chestnuts. These have 
 been cut down or hurled down. The few 
 remaining are battered by shell. Before 
 reaching Strasburg we see the ruins of the 
 citadel, literally razed to the ground, and 
 soon after we pass through the gate of the 
 city. La Porte d'Austerlitz. 
 
 The town of Strasburg, to use a rough 
 simile, is somewhat in the shape of a leg of 
 mutton. The broad end is to the west 
 from north to south, and it tapers to the 
 east. On the west, even in its greatest
 
 Strasbujy in liuuis. 81 
 
 breadth, it is separated from the city by 
 a canal falling- int(3 the river 111. This 
 portion of the city, about one-fifth of its 
 length, and the whole breadth, may be said 
 to be entirely destroyed, scarcely one stone 
 resting on another. It is called the Canton 
 Ouest, and opens to the country by the 
 gates, the Porte de Pierres, the Porte de 
 Saverne, and the Porte Nationale. The 
 whole length of the quays on both sides is 
 destroyed. On the edges of the canal were 
 huts constructed with shutters against the 
 walls, where the inhabitants, driven from 
 their homes, had taken shelter. Due north 
 in the Canton Nord, bounded by the ram- 
 parts of the Porte des Juifs, the havoc is 
 equally terrible. This extends southwards 
 at rapid intervals, and has overwhelmed 
 almost every public building in the town : 
 churches, theatre, library, prefecture, arsenal, 
 all are thoroughly destroyed. The cross on 
 the top of the cathedral is battered on one 
 
 G
 
 82 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 side and hangs obliquely. Tlie walls of the 
 cathedral are damaged, its outer roof en- 
 tirely burnt, while holes in the inner vault- 
 ing open on the sky. Most of the old glass 
 is removed. The remainder is much shat- 
 tered. On the north-east the narrowest 
 portion opens on the north by the Porte des 
 Pecheurs, and on the east by the Porte 
 d'Austerlitz ; the ruin on the north and 
 east portion is equally great, while every 
 building in the citadel is literally levelled 
 with the ground. 
 
 On our arrival we drove to the Hotel de 
 Paris. This is monopolised by the Grovernor- 
 General, Count Bismarck-Bohlen, and his 
 staff. We could not even find food ; so, 
 leaving our bags, we started with a guide 
 to see the town. Our first care was to take 
 tickets at the Mairie. These are sold for 
 the benefit of the poor. No one, however, 
 is allowed to visit the ramparts, on account 
 of the unexploded projectiles still lying in
 
 The French Artillery. 8n 
 
 them. We Avere told that even the 
 Emperor of Russia would not receive per- 
 mission. Notices are posted calHng on the 
 inhabitants to advise the authorities of any 
 of these projectiles found in their houses, 
 that they may be taken away by competent 
 hands. Our first visit was to the lunettes 
 52 and 53, on the taking of which the town 
 surrendered. These were fired on by the 
 batteries from Schiltigheim, on the north, 
 till they were abandoned. A footway was 
 then made with gabions and fascines over 
 the moat, and the deserted lunettes thus 
 occupied and a breach made in the ramparts, 
 resistance became hopeless. An officer who 
 explained the operations told us that while 
 the footway was being made the French 
 artillery opened fire transversely on the 
 Prussians at work. The guns, however, 
 were so badly served that all the shells 
 flew over them, and only one man was hurt 
 during the whole of the night. The 
 
 G 2
 
 84 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 lunette once occupied, a trench was Jug in 
 the direction of the rampart, on the comple- 
 tion of which white flags were displayed 
 from every portion of the fortifications. 
 Prussians are now engaged in restoring the 
 damage. 
 
 Returning from the lunettes, we went to 
 the Hotel de la Maison Rouge, where we 
 found dinner, and were promised accommo- 
 dation. The table criiotewas crowded with, 
 I may almost say, hundreds, amongst whom 
 one of our German fellow-travellers found 
 no less than twelve of his Cologne fellow- 
 townsmen. After dinner we visited the 
 citadel, on the way to which, as well as 
 wathin its walls, we found the same un- 
 sparing destruction. Where the ruin has 
 not been wholesale it has been general. 
 Through the whole city it may be asserted 
 that no street has escaped the loss of some 
 houses, and no house has escaped injury of 
 some kind. The siege of Strasburg lasted
 
 The Citadel and the TveneJies. 85 
 
 six weeks, and is almost imprecedeoted in 
 engineering history. Yet the Enghsh 
 Government, with that prevision which 
 marks wise rulers, sent no one engineer 
 officer to watch it ; nor, indeed, did it send 
 any English officer to watch the vast opera- 
 tions of the war till Strasburg had fallen. 
 Since then it has deputed Captain Hozier 
 to attend the head-quarters of the army. 
 If it is right to send him now, the question 
 may be asked why it was not equally right 
 to send him sooner? 
 
 After seeing the citadel, I took a carriage 
 to visit the trenches and to find out the 
 place where JNIr. James and myself had been 
 exposed to some danger in watching the 
 siege about two days before the surrender. 
 To arrive at this point I had to traverse 
 the trenches, but I found the spot Avithout 
 much difficulty. Here, to my astonishment, 
 I discovered that we had not been, as we 
 imagined, at Bischheim, but at Schiltigheim,
 
 86 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 or Scliellig, a suburb which joins Bischheim 
 without interruption of building. The 
 house at which we had stood was just over 
 the first parallel, at the very point from 
 Avhicli the most deadly fire had been poured 
 on the town. Between it and the town not 
 a single house was standing, and the 
 gunners who had aimed at us must natur- 
 ally have thought we were reconnoitring 
 the position. The suburbs show a destruc- 
 tion equal to that of the town. Houses, 
 trees, and gardens were one mass of con- 
 fusion and rubbish. The inhabitants of the 
 town complain that Schiltigheim, as being 
 the residence of rich merchants, was spared, 
 in the first instance, by the besieged, as, if 
 destroyed before the attack, it would have 
 deprived the besiegers of the covert from 
 Avhich they directed their fire. 
 
 Meanwhile my companions had been con- 
 versing with some of the inhabitants. It 
 appears that during the siege service was
 
 TJie Cathedral Service.^. 87 
 
 never once interrupted at the cathedral. 
 No priest, however, was hurt, one Suisse 
 alone being wounded in the ankle. The 
 residents were not satisfied with the sur- 
 render; notwithstanding their sufierings 
 they were quite ready to continue. Admiral 
 Excelmans was opposed to the surrender, 
 which was, however, quite justifiable in a 
 military point of view, the more so from 
 the disorganised state of the garrison. All, 
 however, bore testimony to the good con- 
 duct of the Prussian soldiery. 
 
 We made at Strasburg the acquaintance 
 of a Johanniter Knight on his way to 
 Pont-a-Mousson, and with him we, the next 
 day, took a carriage to Vendenheim, the 
 nearest station to the town. On our way 
 we passed the site of a mortar battery, and 
 near the station we found a large depot of 
 artillery I had seen on a former occasion. 
 "VVe took first-class tickets, but first, second, 
 and third-class carringes were lull, and our
 
 88 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 only resource was a luggage van which con- 
 tained the mail-bags and a Bavarian postal 
 official. A regiment, it is said, has Leen 
 going daily from Strasburg to Nanteuil, and 
 the carriages were full of officers. On our 
 w^ay we passed several long trains full of 
 soldiers, and some laden with the heavy 
 siege artillery which is being massed round 
 Paris. Besides the Bavarian postal officer, 
 we had with us in the van one or two 
 I'ailway workmen going to Meaux, and the 
 servant of a colonel of Hussars in charge of 
 his master's luggage, and very ill. As we 
 started we saw an officer ordering some 
 men to take particular care of a box placed 
 in our van. It belonged to a French lady 
 on her way to Chalons-sur-Marne. Througli- 
 out the whole journey the officer seemed 
 most anxious to show her every attention. 
 Before arriving at the Yosges passes, we 
 were struck by a peculiar circumstance. A 
 superior railway official, in uniform, wearing
 
 The Advance on Paris. 89 
 
 a iinifbrni coat trimmed with fur and travel- 
 ling in the train, entered our carriage. 
 Opening a portmanteau he took out a re- 
 volver, placed it in his pocket, closed his 
 valise, and resumed his place in the train. 
 Soon we came to the Yosges, and here we 
 were struck by the sight of Prussian soldiers 
 helping peasant women in tending their 
 cows. We could not help contrasting these 
 peaceful employments with the aspect of 
 the country. The train runs through narrow 
 passes covered with thick beech woods and 
 hornbeam coverts. Frequent and long 
 tunnels interrupt the road, and it seemed 
 inconceivable that the French could have 
 given up these defiles without a struggle. 
 At Meaux the destruction of a tunnel has 
 much interfered with the approach of the 
 Prussians ; and a small force in the Yosges, 
 with the connivance oF the peasantry and 
 the blowing up of the tunnels, might have 
 held the largest Prussian army at bay for
 
 90 Some Notes of tlw Pusf. 
 
 months. The Prussians evidently appre- 
 ciated the value of tliese positions. At 
 every village there was a strong Prussian 
 force. Patrols were frequently passing on 
 the line, and the mouths of tunnels were 
 strictly guarded. At Lutzelsburg, the sta- 
 tion of Phalsburg, some Bavarian soldiers 
 asked for stockings, of which they appeared 
 in great want. At a further station nearer 
 Luneville two or three Saxons joined us in 
 the van on their way to Luneville. With 
 the good-natured gossip of their country 
 they told us that, a few days before, on the 
 Sunday, a severe fight had taken place near 
 Luneville with a strong party of Franc- 
 tireurs. The Prussian troops had been sur- 
 prised without ammunition, and the Franc- 
 tireurs had been beaten off with stones. 
 We also learnt that on more than one 
 occasion these irregular troops had fired on 
 the trains. This circumstance accounted 
 for the very strong detachments along the 
 
 I
 
 Tlui Francs- Tireurs. 91 
 
 line. It cannot be doubted, as the days 
 grow shorter, that the inhabitants will 
 organise themselves more completely and 
 harass the German troops. It is quite 
 apparent that when men of superior intelli- 
 gence take command of guerilla bands, the 
 jDOsition even of a triumphant army may be 
 rendered most wearisome. At Luneville 
 the Yosges defiles close, and Nancy is not 
 far distant. 
 
 We were bent on visiting Toul. A train 
 was just starting from Nancy, and, after 
 very little difiSculty and a good deal of 
 bustle, we obtained leave to go by it from 
 the Etapen commandant's office, in which 
 were two remarkably civil officers — Bava- 
 rians — one of whom spoke French, the 
 other English. They confirmed the news 
 of the Franc-tireurs, and said the Prussian 
 losses had been heavy. 
 
 I resumed my letter at Luxemburg, 
 October loth. An hour takes us to Toul
 
 92 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 tlirougli a very pretty country planted with 
 vines and tobacco. The approach to the 
 town bore the usual vestiges of war: 
 gardens laid waste, houses in ruin, and 
 trees felled. The way from the station to 
 the gate lies through what was once an 
 avenue of fine planes, all now cut down. 
 A first glance of the town gives the key to 
 the whole siege. High over the city hangs 
 a hill called St. Michel, totally unfortified. 
 Everyone knew the weakness of this posi- 
 tion. A woman told us that in her child- 
 hood the citizens had always said that Toul 
 could not resist a siege on account of this 
 height. Yet it had never been fortified. 
 The Prussians there placed the batteries by 
 which the town was bombarded and taken. 
 A Mecklenburg officer we met in the 
 train led us to the hotel. His civility, 
 though well meant, did not add to the 
 warmth of our reception. It led later to a 
 serio-comic scene.
 
 Toul. 93 
 
 After engaging our rooms we went to 
 see the town and the cathedral. Toul was 
 once a bishopric known as " Le Riche 
 Eveche," from having in its jurisdiction 
 1700 parishes. Gradually the erection of 
 sees at Nancy and Yerdun diminished its 
 importance, and the diocese was abolished 
 at the Concordat. 
 
 The cathedral, whlcli is very beautiful, 
 suffered greatly in the revolution of 1793, 
 during which much of the sculpture on the 
 walls was damaged. On this occasion it 
 has undergone considerable injury. A 
 window in one of the twin towers has been 
 completely destroyed. The rosace, cele- 
 brated for its beauty, over the principal 
 entrance, has not escaped. Some of the 
 painted glass has been much injured. The 
 church of St. Gengulphus or St. Gengoult, 
 which we saw the next day, has suffered 
 far more seriously. Its rosace has been 
 entirely blown away, and a portion of its
 
 94 Some Notes of the PaM. 
 
 beuutifiil cloister has been much injured. 
 From what we learnt the Prussian autho- 
 rities are much annoyed at the damage. 
 During the beginning of the siege some 
 young artillery officers made practice on 
 the towers of the churches. Towards the 
 end, however, some older men arrived, 
 stopped this wantonness, and reproved the 
 offenders. The town itself does not present 
 so much appearance of injury as might be 
 expected. This comes from the shells 
 having fallen on the roofs and damaged the 
 houses internally. The interiors of some 
 were much destroyed. Some were bulging 
 out, and had to be supported by beams 
 across the street. All were being repaired. 
 The severest dilapidation we saw was in the 
 civil hospital near the gate. Here one side 
 of the quadrangle had been utterly ruined, 
 including the chapel and its organ. In the 
 uninjured wing is a hospital. Near the 
 hospital stood a large number of cannon.
 
 lite Defence of ToiiL 95 
 
 On attempting to look at them we were 
 warned off by a sentry. 
 
 The historj' of the siege is curious. The 
 clay before it began, a general with 1500 
 men — 500 of whom were artillery — think- 
 ing the defence hopeless, had left the place. 
 The garrison remaining consisted of about 
 120 soldiers of the line, some pensioners, 
 and 2000 of the Mobile. With this force 
 the inhabitants, military and civil, insisted 
 on holding out, the gans being chiefly 
 managed by the pensioners and the Mobile. 
 At first the Prussians, thinking the town 
 almost defenceless, made an imprudent 
 advance, and incurred considerable loss from 
 a sortie of the garrison. The commander 
 surrendered only to avoid the heavy bom- 
 bardment of the town. Many of the civil 
 inhabitants were averse to capitulation. 
 One woman told us that she had become 
 quite accustomed to the bombardment, and 
 regretted that her fellow-citizens had sur-
 
 96 Some Notes of the l\ist. 
 
 rendered so soon. She considered herself 
 more likely to make a good soldier than her 
 husband. "Je n'ai pas d'enfants — voyez- 
 vous — etje ne m'aime pas trop. Ainsi, je 
 ne Grains pas la mort, et le danger 
 m'amuse." We particularly enquired of her 
 how the Prussian soldiers behaved. She 
 replied that nothing could be better than 
 their conduct ; it was far better than that of 
 French soldiers. In one shop we saw a 
 curious phenomenon. Some wax lucifer 
 matches, exposed in a window during the 
 bombardment, had entirely lost tlie phos- 
 phorus. The ends, though unexploded, 
 had become quite white. The scene to 
 which I before alluded was enacted by a 
 Frenchman at the table (Thote. As we came 
 in we found our three places arranged 
 together, opposite that of the officer we had 
 met. At the end of the room was a table 
 between the two windows, at which the 
 Frenchman was seated. During dinner he 
 
 I
 
 A Patriot. 9T 
 
 said not a word, but placed his face in Lis 
 hands, gradually edging round his chair so 
 as to turn his back on us. Seeing this I 
 wished to explain to him that we were not 
 Prussians, and on asking for some wine I 
 said to the waitress, " Avez-vous du vin 
 sec ? Quand a nous autres en Angleterre." 
 — — At the last word he wheeled round his 
 chair and cried to the maid, " Sec, Marie, du 
 vin sec, voyez-vous pour ces messieurs," 
 and during the rest of dinner was full of 
 attention to us. Later, he interrupted the 
 conversation once or twice to narrate the 
 occasions on which the garrison had got the 
 better of the besiegers, anecdotes which the 
 Prussian ofiScer took very good-naturedly. 
 Another curious incident marked our visit 
 to Toul. While taking our tickets at the sta- 
 tion (October 12th), a Government courier 
 came into the office to have his way bill 
 signed. He told the officer in charge that 
 he had arrived with a special train convey- 
 
 II
 
 98 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 ing a Prussian officer and a French general 
 from Metz to treat for the surrender of that 
 fortress. Standing at the station was an 
 engine with a single carriage containing the 
 two officers in question. I saw tlic French 
 general, by accident, as he endeavoured to 
 conceal himself behind the blinds.* 
 
 The next day our first-class tickets took 
 ns, like the day before, in third-class 
 carriages, and we returned to Nancy. 
 The town was not so full as on my former 
 visit, and we found very good accommo- 
 dation at the excellent Hotel de France. 
 After our arrival twenty- two persons were 
 refused admittance. The chief part of the 
 inmates are Prussian officers sent on billets 
 given by the JMaire. At my last visit I 
 found Nancy without newspapers. Now 
 the Courrier du Bas Rhin is published, 
 as well as the Moniteur OJiciel du Gouverne- 
 ment General de Lorraine et du Prefet de 
 
 * This officer was, I believe, General Boyer, 1892. 
 
 I
 
 The Con.'^cript'ion. 99 
 
 la Meurthe. Publie pas ordre du Com- 
 missaire Civil de la Lorraine. It is 
 printed at the ' ' Imprimerie (militaire- 
 ment occupee) de Hinzelin et Cie., a 
 Nancv." I have now with me the last 
 number, the eighth, published on the 13th. 
 It first gives in the Partie Officielle a decree 
 of the Provisional Government of France 
 of October 1st, postponing the election 
 " qui constate I'antagonisme entre ce 
 Gouvernement et la Delegation de Tours." 
 Next followed telegrams, then Govern- 
 ment proclamations, amongst these a few 
 of considerable severity. Mayors are called 
 upon by the Governor-General von Bonin 
 to furnish within three days lists of those 
 who, by French law, are subject to the 
 conscription. In case of the departure or 
 absence non motive of any individual in- 
 scribed in these lists, the parents and 
 guardians, or, in their default the com- 
 munes, are to be fined 50 fr. a day for 
 
 II 2
 
 100 Some Notes of the Fast. 
 
 each individual absent, and for eacli day 
 of absence. 
 
 Then comes a notification of the Marquis 
 de Villers, Commissaire Civil en Lorraine, 
 threatening punishment to those damaging 
 the telegraph lines. It is curious to re- 
 mark that all the chief functionaries in 
 Lorraine are descendants of French emz^r*?^. 
 The Governor - General is General von 
 Bonin, the Prefect Comte Renard, and the 
 Commissaire Civil the Marquis de Villers. 
 The title of Marquis does not exist in 
 Germany. To return to the Gazette. After 
 the last notification follows a list of the 
 trains between Nancy and Epernay and 
 Ars-sur-Moselle. These, for some reason, 
 are so arranged as to arrive at each station 
 about ten minutes after the departure of 
 another train in the same direction, thus 
 making consecutive travelling impossible. 
 The Partie Ojficielle ends with a paragraph 
 headed, " De'partement de la Meurthe,"
 
 Repression of Disorder. 101 
 
 showing that the punishments indicated 
 are not vain threats : — 
 
 " On the first of this month the gen- 
 darmes stationed at Flavigny and Yezelise 
 were attacked by Franc-tireurs. One gen- 
 darme was murdered, a second severely 
 wounded, and six others taken prisoners. 
 The comph'city of the inhabitants of these 
 communes not being doubtful, the Governor- 
 General has been obliged to take the most 
 energetic measures to interest the com- 
 munes in the security of the German 
 employes. In consequence these communes 
 have been sentenced to fines of 30,000 fr. 
 and 100,000 fr., and the Mayors, as well 
 as two members of the Municipal Council, 
 have been seized as hostages. The houses 
 in which tlie crime was committed have 
 been burnt and razed, and the entire com- 
 munes are threatened with the same fate 
 if the gendarmes taken prisoners are not 
 at once set free."
 
 102 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 The rest of the Gazette is taken up with 
 extracts of French papers, including the 
 Situation, all tending to discredit the Re- 
 publican Grovernment, and in favour of 
 the late Imperial regime. 
 
 This leads me to some very remarkable 
 conversations we have had with Germans 
 of all kinds on the subject of peace. 
 Amongst those who do not belong to 
 well-informed circles, the current belief is 
 that the King of Prussia will not make 
 peace with a Republican Government. It 
 is openly declared by all the coffee-house 
 politicians that after taking Paris the King 
 will bring back the Emperor and will make 
 peace w^ith him. The Germans in general 
 seem to have a horror of Republicanism. 
 The importation of Garibaldi into France 
 has roused a very bitter feeling, and the 
 opinion prevails that no peace of a per- 
 manent character can be concluded with 
 any but a monarchical government. These 
 
 I
 
 Prospects of Peace. 103 
 
 floating rumours are strengthened by certain 
 circumstances which may or may not be 
 relevant. Bourbaki's visit to the Empress, 
 and his protracted absence from Metz, for 
 he has not as yet returned there, are much 
 remarked on. A passport was given him 
 by the Prussians under the name of Reg- 
 nier. Besides this it is beyond a doubt that 
 great dissensions are going on between the 
 original garrison of Metz and the force 
 under Bazaine. The former, numbering 
 about 30,000, still in the town, recognises 
 the Republic; the latter, about *70,000, 
 encamped within the outer circle of the 
 fortress, refuses this recognition. If the 
 general we saw at Toul is not about to treat 
 the capitulation, what was his mission? 
 
 The consideration, therefore, presenting 
 itself is the extent of annexation. What 
 will France yield? With how little will 
 Prussia be satisfied? It is now generally 
 known that Prussia is not quite so innocent
 
 104 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 in the cause of the war as to throw tlie 
 blame wholly on Fiance. Lord Clarendon, 
 six months before his death, was acquainted 
 with the project of placing the Prince of 
 Hoheiizollern on the throne of Spain. His 
 influence was sufficient to obtain the renun- 
 ciation of the project, which was renewed 
 after the determination plainly manifested 
 by the British Grovernment, of reducing 
 their armaments at any risk. It may, 
 beyond dispute, be affirmed that the army 
 of Prussia and the people of France are 
 desirous of peace. 
 
 The Prussian army round Metz is ill 
 of dysentery, with a certain admixture of 
 typhus. A thousand men daily, it is said, 
 are invalided, and must be replaced by 
 others. On the other hand, the French 
 people are desirous of pursuing unmolested 
 their vocations. Peace is the object and 
 wish of Lorraine. It was for peace they 
 voted the plebiscite. I was told more than
 
 IJesire for Peace. 105 
 
 once in my journey that tlie people were 
 indifferent to the form of government, 
 provided they are secure of peace. On the 
 walls of Pont-k-Mousson are still seen 
 proclamations addressed to the people, 
 advocating the plebiscite. They run : — •' If 
 you want peace, vote oui. If you want 
 stability, vote oui.'' The vote was given on 
 these conditions. A j^easant said to me, 
 " What do I care for an Empire or a 
 Republic ? I am an innkeeper, a baker and 
 a farmer. I can never aspire to be a 
 prefect. All I want is to carry on my 
 commerce and bring up my children. On 
 the other hand, a Prussian Landwehr 
 soldier said to me, " I am away from my 
 family ; I am nearly forty years of age ; I 
 leave a wife and four children, and all I 
 receive for their support is four thalers a 
 month. Do you think we want the war to 
 continue ? " There is a clear irritation on 
 the part of the Prussian soldiery on account
 
 106 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 of the war. This will add to the difficulties 
 of peace. The Lorrainers speak hig'hly of 
 the superior officers and of the soldiers. 
 The lower officers are the least amiable. I 
 saw the station-master at Nancy thump 
 and maul with his fist a porter on a very 
 slight pretext, and in the presence of many 
 other officers. Such acts create more hos- 
 tility than the taking of cities. If territory 
 be annexed there may be a certain emigra- 
 tion, but if the annexation be judiciously 
 carried out by conciliatory administrators, 
 Prussia may obtain all she really requires, 
 or is entitled to require, without fear for 
 the future. But she must make haste ere 
 the night cometh, when no man can 
 work. 
 
 The intentional inconvenience of the 
 trains gave us some difficulty in leaving 
 Nancy. We therefore took a carriage to 
 Pont-a-Mousson, so as to catch the trains 
 running on the railway recently constructed
 
 Siege of Metz. 107 
 
 by the Prussians from Pont-k-Mousson to 
 Remilly, where it falls into the regular line 
 from Metz to Saarbriicken. After a short 
 stay at Pont-a-Mousson we thought it better 
 to drive on to Remilly. Tlie road was full 
 of warlike images : long files of troops, 
 convoys of ammunition, crosses marking 
 graves, two encampments, felled trees, shat- 
 tered houses ; while, for some portion of the 
 road, we not only heard but saw the bom- 
 bardment of Metz, the cathedral of which 
 stood boldly forward. The shots were prin- 
 cipally fired from Fort St. Quentin, which, 
 overhangs the town on the north-west, but 
 is seen quite plainly on the south. At 
 Remilly the train was full, but we were 
 allowed to sit on the guard's look-out at the 
 top of one of the carriages, our bags being 
 placed in a precarious position on a ledge 
 beneath. The train was very long, full of 
 soldiers invalided, of private passengers, 
 and of persons connected with the army.
 
 108 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 AYe performed the journey to Saarbriicken 
 (about 30 miles) in something imder five 
 hours. It is said that the bombardment of 
 Paris will begin on the 18th.
 
 109 
 
 PRINCE LOUIS-NAPOLEON. 
 
 Madrid, April 19th, 1892. 
 
 On reading over these letters, written 
 nearly twenty-two years ago, I recall other 
 personal incidents in connection with the 
 Emperor Napoleon III. In 1848, on the 
 10th of April, I remember seeing a detach- 
 ment of special constables, among whom I 
 was told was Prince Louis-Napoleon. To- 
 wards the close of the same year I was 
 present at a party given, I think, by Mrs. 
 Mountjoy Martin, where he was also a 
 guest. Shortly after, he left England for 
 France. At the end of that December, 
 accompanied by Sir Arthur Otway,* I paid 
 a visit to Paris, then almost abandoned by 
 
 * Now lUglit Hon. Sir Arthur Otway, Bait., late 
 (Jliairmaii cif Ways and Means, 1892.
 
 110 Some Azotes of the Past. 
 
 foreign visitors on account of the disor- 
 ganised state of politics. During our stay 
 Prince Louis-Napoleon was elected Presi- 
 dent. We were unable to obtain a window 
 to see liis solemn entry. At that time it 
 was the habit of many Englishmen to buy 
 their shoes at Paris ; and a shoemaker 
 named Mausse, or Mause, whom some of 
 my party employed, an old soldier and a 
 sergeant-major of the National Guard, 
 offered to find us places in the ranks of his 
 corps. We therefore went four of us to- 
 gether — Sir Arthur Otway, the late Captain 
 Grallwey, E.N., the late Colonel Gordon 
 Gumming, and myself. Our guide provided 
 us with muskets, and there was nothing in- 
 congruous in our plain clothes, as many of 
 the National Guard themselves were with- 
 out uniform. It was a bright frosty morn- 
 ing, and all Paris seemed in high spirits. 
 Bands were playing gay tunes, and many 
 of the National Guard danced fantastic
 
 Napoleon II T. Ill 
 
 quadrilles, all evidently exhilarated at the 
 termination of the strug'gle. At length a 
 signal was given, and the Prince-President 
 approached with his staff. My friends and 
 myself, who were in the front rank, pre- 
 sented arms as he passed. Thus I wit- 
 nessed his official entry into France. 
 
 Later on I was presented to him as 
 
 Emperor at a ball at the Tuileries, and later 
 
 on agaiii I had an audience of him on a 
 
 proposal for improving the communications 
 
 between Dover and Calais. The audience 
 
 was given to me at the request of his early 
 
 friend, Lord Malmesbury, to whom when 
 
 at the Foreign Office I had been private 
 
 secretary, and of Sir Algernon Borthwick,* 
 
 who both supported the project. The 
 
 Emperor was much interested, and invited 
 
 me to return later to discuss the plan ; but 
 
 meanwhile other circumstances intervened. 
 
 It was not long before the final catastrophe, 
 
 * M.r. for South Kensiiiirtun.
 
 112 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 and I never saw liim again until the events 
 narrated in the foregoing letters. It was 
 therefore my lot to see Napoleon III. first 
 in exile ; then on his official entry into 
 France as President; next, in the height 
 of his fortunes as Emperor ; and last, at his 
 final departure from France and his return 
 as a prisoner into his final exile. I have 
 since met others of his family. I heard 
 the speech delivered in 1879 hy the Prince 
 Imperial, whom I have often met, at the 
 dinner of the Newspaper Press Fund — a 
 speech remarkahle for its force, thought and 
 diction, but I fancy no one hut, perhaps, 
 some old and faithful servant can have seen 
 the Emperor himself as I saw him in all 
 those separate and special contrasts of his 
 progress.
 
 ii; 
 
 UNWRITTEN HISTORY. 
 
 A FEW years since there died at Torquay a 
 very remarkable man. He had been in his 
 youth a lawyer in London. He was much 
 prized by a certain section of society higher 
 than was likely either from his birth or 
 home surroundings. He helped young men 
 out of difficulties without ruining them, and 
 was consulted by every kind of foremost 
 man. He was much in the intimacy at one 
 time of Lord Beaconsfield, who mentioned 
 him in one of his early novels. Pie later 
 was the close friend and confidant of Lord 
 ^lalmesbury, Sir Edward Bulwer Lytton, 
 Sir Henry Bulwer, the younger Lord 
 Lytton, and others. He had been cele- 
 brated by Lord Winchilsea in a ballad, and 
 was a friend of Lord Houghton, He had 
 
 1
 
 114 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 been employed professionally by tbe 
 Emperor Napoleon III., and by ^lessrs. 
 Scott tlio bankers. He bad an accurate 
 acquaintance with tbe affairs of almost 
 every one, and a personal experience of tbe 
 secrets of many. In bis early days be had 
 lived very expensively and hnnted a pack 
 of bounds, I think in Bedfordshire. He 
 was very popular and kind-hearted, always 
 ready to render a service. He hampered 
 himself very much by the purchase of some 
 building land in Paris, which did not 
 develop itself with sufiScient rapidity, and 
 on this account be lived for many years at 
 Paris. Then be superintended the admin- 
 istration of Chateau Lafitte, which belonged 
 to the Scotts. He gave small dinners, 
 collected china, and corresponded with many 
 persons in England. I made bis acquaint- 
 ance about the year 1860, and some time 
 afterwards met him at frequent intervals. 
 Yery late in life he became reconciled to
 
 Death of Lord Camelford. 115 
 
 Ills wife, Irom whom lie had long been 
 separated, and came to live with her and 
 an aunt of hers past ninety-five in a queer 
 old-fashioned Greorgian house at Norwood 
 Green near Southall. It opened on tlie 
 road, and behind it was a lawn with largo 
 cedars and other spreading trees which the 
 old lady had seen planted. Later his wife 
 and her aunt died, and he bought the lease 
 of a house at Torquay, where he spent his 
 last days. By some means, almost unseen, 
 he kept up his knowledge with the world 
 of movement, young and old. Accident, 
 on more than one occasion, revealed to me 
 the rare accuracy with which he narrated 
 whatever he told about others. He had a 
 surprising memory, and I often regret not 
 having put his anecdotes on record. He 
 once gave me a wonderfully interesting- 
 account of the duel in which Lord Camelford 
 was killed, the particulars of which I cannot 
 recall ; but all to the credit of Lord Camel- 
 
 I 2
 
 110 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 ibid, wlio had, it appears, prepared a post- 
 cliaise, and a largo sum of money, to help 
 liim to escape in case he should kill his 
 adversary. But as he lay dying on the 
 ground he insisted on the opponent making 
 use botli of the carriage and the money. 
 
 Amongst his stories there are one or two 
 I specially recollect, and one of which is 
 recalled to me by the name of Napoleon III. 
 I had one day met at my friend's a Mr. 
 
 S , a small lively man of whom he told 
 
 me the story. It appears that some short 
 time before the escape from Ham of Prince 
 Louis Napoleon, an early friend of his, an 
 Englishman of some influence, had been 
 allowed to pay him a visit. I fancy the 
 Englishman was Lord Malmesbury, but I 
 do not think he himself ever told me the 
 circumstance. During this visit the Prince 
 declared that ever3^thing was prepared for 
 his escape, and on some doubt being ex- 
 pressed, he took his visitor to the window,
 
 I 
 
 Louis Napoleo)i at Ham. 117 
 
 which Wiis surrounded bv li'uards and 
 sentries. The Prince then made a si^n bv 
 curling one side of his moustache, and the 
 sign was repeated by most of the soldiers 
 and civilians who were in sight of the 
 window. 
 
 The Prince then went on to say that 
 everything was ready, and that he could 
 escape without difficulty, if three hundred 
 thousand francs were obtained to provide 
 for those who would lose their places from 
 his evasion. The visitor on returning to 
 Enirland mentioned the circumstance to 
 Mr. Thomas Duncombe, the wit, and 
 member for Finsbury, who had also been 
 a friend of Prince Louis Napoleon. By 
 him it was repeated to the Duke of Bruns- 
 wick, then living in England, and the 
 subject, by-tlie-way, of constant attacks by 
 the Satirist newspaper. The Duke, who 
 was very rich, oftered to provide the money 
 if it could be conveyed to the prisoner. Mr.
 
 118 Some Notes of the Fast. 
 
 Duncombc at once proposed for the purpose 
 the person I mentioned as having met at 
 Norwood Green. 
 
 This gentleman belonged to a family, as 
 I understood, engaged in the rearing of 
 horses. Ilis lanc:uacre showed that his 
 education had not been careful, but he was 
 very sharp, and in addition strictly honest. 
 Mr. Duncombe had made him a kind of 
 secretary, and he managed affairs political 
 and private requiring much dexterity. To 
 him the money was confided. I do not 
 
 recollect how Mr. S ever reached the 
 
 Prince. Access was very difficult, and 
 could only be obtained by a special order 
 from the Government. Mr. S- , how- 
 ever, did obtain access, gave the money, 
 and returned to London. 
 
 Not many days later, while breakfasting 
 at his lodgings in Conduit Street, a stranger 
 entered his room, who was no other than 
 the Prince. The money had produced its
 
 The DuJce of Brunswiclcs Fortanc 119 
 
 effect, and he was free. For some years he 
 could not do much for his deliverer, who 
 still continued in the service of Mr. 
 Duncomhe. At last, however, the Prince 
 was chosen Emperor, and within a very 
 
 few days he sent for Mr. S . He then 
 
 told him that he would give him an entrepot, 
 and make him an Auditor of the Civil List. 
 The latter office was a sinecure, with a 
 salary of twenty thousand francs a year. 
 On enquiry it was found that the entrepot 
 could he sold I'or five hundred thousand 
 francs, heing what we should call a bonded 
 warehouse with special privileges. 
 
 The Duke of Brunswick, it is said, in- 
 tended to leave his property, which was 
 immense, to the Prince Imperial. A state- 
 ment of investments found in the papers of 
 the Emperor at the Tuileries and published 
 as an inventory of his personal pro^Dcrty, 
 and which formed a text for attack was, I 
 believe, a list of stocks belonging to the
 
 120 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 Duke. For some reason or otlier the inten- 
 tion was abandoned, and the money was 
 left to the town of Geneva. On the death 
 
 of Mr. Duncombe Mr. S was made 
 
 generally the manager of the Duke's affairs, 
 and was constantly travelling on this duty 
 between London, Paris and Geneva. I was 
 told that he had received a paper giving to 
 him any moneys belonging to the Duke at 
 the time of his death, "which might then 
 
 be in Mr. S 's possession. I believe he 
 
 w^as at the time of the Duke's death travel- 
 ling either from or to Geneva, and that he 
 retained possession under the document of 
 40,000/. which he w^as carrying with him. 
 
 T have, since the foregoing was written, 
 been reminded of a passage in Lord JMal- 
 mesbury's " Memoirs of an Ex-Minister " 
 which bears on this anecdote. At his visit 
 to Prince Louis Napoleon at Ham on the 
 20th of April, 1845, among other things 
 the Prince said to him —
 
 The E.scajjc from Ham. 121 
 
 " You see the sentry under my window ? 
 I do not know whether he is one of mine 
 or not ; if he is he will cross his arms, if not 
 he will do nothing when I make a sign." 
 
 According to Lord Malmesbury the 
 Prince went to the window and stroked his 
 moustache, but there was no response until 
 three were reheved, when the soldier 
 answered by crossing his arms over his 
 musket. The Prince then said, " You see 
 that my partisans are unknown to me, and 
 so am I to them. My power is in an 
 immortal name, and in that only ; but I 
 have waited long enougli, and cannot 
 endure imprisonment any longer." 
 
 There is a further entry in the same 
 diary on the 27th of May, 1846 :— 
 
 " On returning from White's Club a man 
 ran over the street and stopped my horse, 
 and at first I did not recognise him ; but to 
 my great surprise I saw Prince Louis 
 Napoleon, whom I had left two months
 
 122 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 before in the fortress of Ham. He had just 
 landed in England after his escape, and was 
 going into the Brunswick Hotel in Jermyn 
 Street. On the same day we dined with the 
 Duke of Beaufort at Hamilton House, and 
 as the party Avas sitting down to dinner I 
 saw opposite to me Louis de Noailles, who 
 was one of the Attache's at the French 
 Embassy, and said across the table to him, 
 Have you seen him ? ' ' Who ? ' he asked. 
 ' Louis Napoleon,' I replied ; he is in 
 London, having just escaped.' De Noailles 
 dropped tbe lady who was on his arm, and 
 made but one jump out of the room, for it 
 seemed that the news had not reached tbe 
 French Embassy. I never saw a man look 
 more frightened." There is evidently a 
 confusion of dates.
 
 12; 
 
 MADAME DE FEUCHERES. 
 
 CoxxECTED with my old friend is a, recol- 
 lection relevant only in its reference to 
 France. 
 
 Louis Philippe, when in exile, lived for 
 some time in the South of England in a 
 house called the Priory, at Christchurch, a 
 borough I once represented. The Due de 
 Bourbon resided in the Isle of Wight, where 
 he formed a connection with a girl named 
 Sophy Dawes, whom he afterwards took to 
 France as his mistress. There she married 
 a Baron de Feucheres, taking with her a 
 portion of 20,000/. Her husband, an old 
 soldier, had married her in ignorance of her 
 antecedents, on discovering which he at 
 once separated from her, refusing the 
 money.
 
 124 So))ie iVofcs of the I'ast. 
 
 Some time before the death of tlie Due de 
 Bourbon Madame de Feucheres came to 
 England and sought the advice of a lawyer. 
 I do not remember whether this was my 
 friend or an acquaintance of his. But the 
 lady showed him a document purporting to 
 be the will of the Due de Bourbon. By 
 this the Duke left to his mistress the whole 
 of his property, the inheritance of the 
 Conde's, and supposed to be in those days 
 the largest fortune in the world. She asked 
 her adviser whether, in his opinion, on the 
 death of the Duke, the French Government 
 would admit the validity of the bequest. 
 The lawyer pointed out that the legacy as 
 it stood would be irksome to her. It would 
 entail the administration of a large landed 
 j^roperty, including Chantilly and other 
 domains, and she must alter the habits 
 of a lifetime. Besides, there was always 
 the chance of the will being invalidated. 
 " Take it back," he said, " and if you have
 
 The Due de Boiu-hons ]Vill. 125 
 
 any influence with the Duhe induce him to 
 alter it. Make up your mind to a sum of 
 money whicli will give you every comfort 
 and luxury you may require, and then ask 
 the Duke to leave the remainder to the 
 family of Orleans, They will see to the 
 validity of the will, and you will come into 
 your fortune under the shadow of theirs." 
 
 The lady took the advice, and on the 
 death of the Due de Bourbon at St. 
 Leu in 1830, she succeeded, though the 
 will was disputed, to wliat he had left 
 her, which was very considerable. She 
 bought from Lord Stuart de Rothesay, 
 whom she had known at Paris, a house at 
 Mudeford, near Christchurch, called Bure 
 Homage, and had it decorated by some of 
 the principal French artists. At her death 
 intestate at Chantilly in 1840 or 1841, 
 aged forty-six, the house passed, first to 
 a brother, then to a nephew, Mr. Dawes, 
 who was for a short time member either
 
 126 Some Noies of the Pusf. 
 
 for Newport or for the Isle of Wight. It is 
 now in the possession of Mr. Frank Ricardo, 
 the son of Mr. Mortimer Ricardo, who 
 bought it. It was once in tlie possession 
 or occupation of Sir John Littler, the 
 Indian a'cneral.
 
 127 
 
 THE PRINCE IMPERIAL. 
 
 I AM glad to find a place in this short 
 record for the speech which I heard de- 
 livered by the Prince Imperial at the dinner 
 of the Newspaper Press Fund on the 18th 
 of May, 1878. Lord Salisbury w^as in the 
 chair, and amongst other guests were 
 Midhat Pasha and Mr. Stanley, the 
 traveller. 
 
 " The PpvInce Imperial : It is with 
 pleasure that I avail mj-self of the oppor- 
 tunity afforded to me this evening to render 
 to the English Press the homage of admira- 
 tion which it deserves. For many years 
 the Press has been a social force with which 
 Governments and individuals have had 
 alike to count. Not oidy can no one deny
 
 128 Some Notes of tite l\ist. 
 
 in our days its importance, but every one 
 must admit that it is a necessity of our 
 modern civilisation. (Hear, hear.) The 
 Press has become a necessary condition of 
 existence to the commercial, to the scien- 
 tific, and to the political world. We have 
 merely to scan the advertising columns of 
 any one of the influential papers to under- 
 stand how useful is the Press to the develop- 
 ment of the wealth of nations. We have 
 merely to remember the history of the last 
 twenty years to acknowledge the services 
 rendered by the Press to the cause of in- 
 dustrial progress. If, thanks to enlightened 
 Governments, treaties of commerce liave 
 been concluded between nations separated 
 by centuries of hatred in order to found 
 fruitful alliances upon joint interests, that 
 great deed has only been rendered possible 
 by the intelligent and energetic advocacy 
 of the Press. (Cheers.) Science is not less 
 than commerce indebted to the Press. Its
 
 Speech of the Prince Imperial. 129 
 
 rapid progress arises from the fact that the 
 observations and studies of every worker in 
 its vast field become instantly, through the 
 Press, the property of all ; so that the 
 whole world is but one vast laboratory, 
 wherein every fact is registered, and wherein 
 no efl'ort, however slight, in the cause of 
 human progress is allowed to be lost. But 
 in the political world the part played by the 
 Press is still more important. There was a 
 time when the fate of nations was decided 
 in secret councils of three or four men. 
 Nowadays the force that makes and un- 
 makes Grovernments, that settles peace or 
 war, is public opinion. (Hear, hear.) That 
 supreme jury, before which every states- 
 man must appear and render an account, 
 would be but a blind tribunal were it not 
 guided by an enlightened Press. (Cheers.) 
 1'he Press leads public opinion in the path 
 of justice far better by stating facts than 
 by defending the best of causes by theo- 
 
 K
 
 130 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 retical arguments. Its mission is to become 
 acquainted with facts, to verify them, to 
 put before the world every kind of inform- 
 ation, and to seek everywhere for the truth. 
 It is that which you, gentlemen, put so 
 well in practice. It is a proud thing to 
 belong to a Press which rightly understands 
 and which nobly does its duty. Amidst 
 the European Press the English is perhaps 
 the only one which completely fulfils its 
 mission. There is not a misfortune which 
 does not find in it a voice of sympathy or a 
 hand of help. (Cheers.) There is not an 
 injustice which is not by it held up to 
 public scorn; there is not a noble deed 
 which is not by it held up to public praise 
 or admiration. United, like all English- 
 men, by a common respect of your national 
 traditions, by a common love of your 
 country, by a common feeling of loyalty 
 towards the Queen, political opinions do 
 not divide you enough to make you forget
 
 The Prince Imperial. 131 
 
 the extent of your duties towards mankind 
 and towards England. In this kingdom, to 
 be on the staff of a paper is not merely 
 following the path which leads to political 
 life. It is a noble profession. Those who 
 have embraced it are, therefore, united by 
 true esprit de corps and guided by feelings 
 of professional honour. The object of the 
 Association which has assembled you here 
 this evening shows the strength of the 
 union which joins us together, and each one 
 of you may rightly be proud to proclaim 
 himself, like the well-known African ex- 
 plorer, the soldier of the Press, which under- 
 stands its importance and does its duty. 
 (Cheers.) I am extremely touched by the 
 way in which the kind words addressed to 
 my fellow-guests have Ijeen received, and 
 I beg Lord Houghton to accept, both for 
 himself and for the Society over which he 
 so ably presides, the expression of our 
 deepest gratitude. (Applause.) "
 
 132 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 PRINCE LOUIS LUCIEN BONAPARTE. 
 
 By various circumstances I was brought 
 for many years into close association with 
 the late Prince Louis Lucien Bonaparte, 
 knowing" several families with whom he 
 had from early days been intimate. My 
 acquaintance began before the Empire. 
 He was the son of Lucien Bonaparte, the 
 brother of Napoleon, before whom the map 
 of Europe had been spread by the Emperor 
 from which to choose a kingdom. Prince 
 Louis Lucien had been born at Thorn- 
 grove House in Herefordshire, but had 
 spent the greater part of his youth in 
 Italy at Canino near Sinigaglia. In 
 feature he presented a striking resemblance
 
 His Vast Learning. 133 
 
 to the Emperor Napoleon I. The younger 
 brother of Prince of Canino and the elder 
 brother of Prince Pierre, he had early in 
 life imbibed strong liberal principles, which 
 later he discarded. When about sixteen 
 years of age, he wrote a poem against the 
 Papacy, which later he upheld and reve- 
 renced. One stanza was thus — 
 
 Di Piero sovra il trono, 
 
 Distrutto omai il Papato 
 L'albero inalzato 
 
 Sia della liberta. 
 
 His life was principally devoted to 
 literature and science. He was a perfect 
 encyclopedia of learning, ancient and 
 modern. His knowledge of languages was 
 remarkable, and much of his life was 
 devoted to the philological study of Basque 
 and the English dialects, spending much 
 money in procuring the translation of the 
 Song of Solomon into the English dialect. 
 He wrote English idiomatically as the
 
 134 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 result of much study. He also spoke it witli 
 perfect correctness, but with an effort. 
 During his reign, his cousin the Emperor 
 Napoleon III. made him a member of his 
 Civil family with the title of Highness, 
 gave him a handsome allowance, and he 
 was created a senator with the salary 
 assigiied to that office. He for some time 
 kept an apartment at Paris, but lived for 
 the most part in London. Here he had 
 purchased two semi-detached houses in 
 Westbourne Grove, now called Norfolk 
 Terrace, Bayswater. A communication 
 was made between the two. He lived in 
 one of them, but devoted the other to 
 science, forming a magnificent philological 
 library, and converting the cellars into a 
 chemical laboratory. In his library there 
 was the following inscription — 
 
 beata solitudo, 
 sola beatitudo! 
 
 He never interfered in politics. He passed
 
 His StucUe-^ and Habits. 135 
 
 the earlier part of Ins manhood near 
 Florence, where he possessed a little villa, 
 called the Yillino Bonaparte, outside the 
 Porta San Gallo, on a rivulet called the 
 Mugnone, not far from the Yilla Palmieri. 
 Here he lived for many years in the society 
 of professors and philosophers. He also 
 possessed a villa at Montughi, left to him 
 by his uncle the Comte de St. Leu — Louis, 
 ex-King of Holland, and father of the Em- 
 peror Napoleon IH. Among his studies at 
 Florence was the analysis ofthe poison from 
 adders, of which he at times had a collection 
 of two or three hundred. His idea was 
 that the venom might counteract hydro- 
 phobia. He was a man of some humour. 
 Once showing to a young lady of a 
 sentimental turn some fulminating poison, 
 the least portion of which would cause 
 instant death, she begged to be allowed 
 to take it, as life was a burden. He at 
 once assented, on which she expressed a
 
 136 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 fear that the consequences of her swallow- 
 ing it might distress her mother, and 
 resented the promptitude of his compli- 
 ance. 
 
 In London, where I first knew him, he 
 often went to the house of some relatives 
 of mine who had lived with him on terms 
 of great intimacy at Florence. They kept 
 up in London the old Italian habit of 
 receiving every evening, and their house 
 was quite cosmopolitan. They were most 
 hospitable and kind-hearted, had a large 
 acquaintance of a miscellaneous character, 
 but being advanced liberals of the con- 
 tinental type they at times received the 
 principal revolutionary leaders, and were 
 cognisant of their plans and proceedings. 
 Prince Louis Lucien, who was a faithful 
 friend, did not desist from frequenting the 
 house, though often deploring the political 
 tendencies of those he met there. He 
 made it a point of pride, when his fortunes
 
 Or.sinl in London. 137 
 
 were prospering, not to abandon his early 
 friends, and even as a first cousin of the 
 Emperor Napoleon III. he was frequently 
 constrained to meet at this house persons 
 whose political labour and methods were 
 distasteful to him. 
 
 I recollect on one occasion, in 1856, 
 the lion of the evening was Orsini, 
 who had recently escaped from prison at 
 Mantua. I did not speak with him, but 
 remember his face, the dominating feature 
 of which was a pair of restless black eyes. 
 Prince Louis Lucien drove me home that 
 evening, and I gathered from his manner 
 how much annoyed he had been at the 
 meeting, and the conversation he had over- 
 heard of the Italians present. He scarcely 
 spoke, and his mood was that of sorrow at 
 meeting persons so hostile to the head of 
 his family from whom he was receiving 
 great benefits. On leaving me at my 
 door he expressed a wish to see me again 
 
 L
 
 1,38 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 soon, but added, henceforth it liad better 
 be at his own liouse. He did not entirely 
 abandon his old friends, but never went 
 to see them till satisfied tliere were no 
 strangers. After the attempt by Orsini, 
 I fancy he discontinued his visits al- 
 together. 
 
 At the outset of tbe French disasters in 
 1870, he came to me at the Athen^um, of 
 which we were both members, and curiously 
 enough, took me in his carriage with the 
 Bonaparte liveries to the door of the 
 German Embassy, where I endeavoured to 
 obtain some authentic news. This occurred 
 a few days before my going abroad, and 
 visiting the seat of war, as related above. 
 At the fall of the Empire the Prince 
 naturally lost his allowance as well as his 
 pay as senator, and having made some bad 
 investments, he was at one time reduced to 
 considerable pecuniary straits. He would 
 never at any time part with his library or
 
 His Death. 139 
 
 his collection of chemicals, including some 
 very valuable metals which he intended at 
 one time to leave to the British Museum. 
 In this he later found some technical diffi- 
 culty. He was, I believe, left one of the 
 guardians to the Prince Imperial, for whom 
 he had a great affection, and to whom he 
 suggested, in case of a Bonapartist re- 
 storation, the abolition of the departmental 
 division of France and the restoration of 
 the old provinces. This was always a 
 favourable subject of discussion with him. 
 He was also fond of heraldry and questions 
 of precedence. Mr. Gladstone, when Prime 
 Minister, recommended him to the Queen for 
 a pension of £250. A question being asked 
 in the House, Mr. Gladstone explained his 
 reasons for granting this relief, amongst 
 others declaring that the Prince was a 
 British subject. Later Mr. Stuart, the son 
 of Lady Dudley Stuart, the Prince's sister, 
 left him a considerable bequest, and he
 
 140 Some Notes of the Past. 
 
 ended his days in easier circumstances. 
 In November, 1891, I saw him leave 
 London for Italy, where he shortly after 
 died. 
 
 THE END. 
 
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 Mahommedan Periods. Edited by Pi:orcs.sop. Cowet.l. Map. 8vo. 18s. 
 Rise of the British Power in the East. A 
 
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 19 LIST OP WORKS 
 
 FITZGERALD (Bishop). Lectures on Ecclesiastical History, 
 
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 FITZPATKICK (William J.). The Correspondence of Daniel 
 
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 FLEMING (Professor). Student's Manual of Moral Philosophy. 
 
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 FLOWER GARDEN, By Rev. Thos. James. Fcap. Svo. Is. 
 FORD (Isabella 0.). Miss Blake of Monkshalton. A Novel. 
 
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 FORD (Richard). Gatherings from Spain. Post Svo. 3s. 6d. 
 
 FORSYTH (William). Hortensius; an Historical Essay on the 
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 FORTIFICATION. [See Clarre.] 
 
 FRANCE (History of). [See Arthur — Markham — Smith- 
 Students' — TOCQUEVII.LF..] 
 
 FilEAM (W.), LL.D. Elements of Agfriculture ; a text-book pre- 
 pared under ihe auiliority of llio Royal Agricnl unl Society of England. 
 With 200 Illustrations. Croi^ n Svo. 2s. (id. 
 
 FRENCH IN ALGIERS; The Soldier of the Foreign Legion— 
 
 and the Prisoners of Abd-el-Kadir. Post Svo. 2s. 
 FRERE (Mary). Old Deccan Days, or Hindoo Fairy Legends 
 
 current in Southern India, with Introduction by Sir Bartle Fbere. 
 
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 • • (M,\.jor). The Combat with Suftering. Fcap. Svo. 3s. 6d. 
 
 GARDNER (Prof. Percy). New Chapters in Greek History. 
 
 Historical results of recent escivations in Greece and Asia Minor. 
 
 With Illustrations. Svo. 15?. 
 
 GEOGRAPHY. [See Bunbury — Croker — Ramsay — Richardson 
 
 — Smith— Students'.] 
 GKOQRAPHICAL SOCIETY'S JOURNAL (1846 to 1881.) 
 
 SUPPLEMENTARY PAPERS. Royal Svo. 
 
 Vol. I., Part i. Travels and Researclies in Western China. By E, 
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 Part ii. — 1. Recent Geography of Central Asia; from Russian 
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 Part iii. — 1. Report on Part of the Ghilzi Country, &c. By 
 Lieut. J. S. Broadfoot. 2. Journey from Shiraz to Jashk. 
 By J. R. Preece. 2'. ed. 
 
 Part iv. — Geographical Education. By J. S. Keltie. 2s. M. 
 Vol. XL, Part i. — 1. Exploration in S. and S. W. China. By A. R. 
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 paniola. By H. Lino Roth. 3. Explorations in Zanzibar 
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 Partii. — A. Bibliography of Algeria, from the Expedition of 
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 Fart iii. — 1. On the Measurement of Heights by the Barometer. 
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 Mill. 3. Mr. J. F. Neeilhani's Journey inSouth Eastern Tibet. 
 
 Part iv. — 1. The Bibliography of the Barbiiry States. Part i. 
 By Sir R. L. Playi air. 2. Hudson's I'.ay and Strait. I!y 
 (jommodore A. II. Markham. R.N. 
 Vo'. Ill , Part i. — Journey of Carey and Dalgleish in Chinese Turkestan 
 and Northern Tibet ; and General Prejevalsky on the Oro- 
 graphy of Northern Tibet.
 
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 GIFFARD (Edward). Deeds of Naral Daring ; or, Anecdotes of 
 
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 GILBERT (Josiah), Landscape in Art : before the days of Claude 
 
 and Salvator. With 150 llhistrationa. Medium 8vo. bOs. 
 GILL (Capt.), The River of Golden Sand. A Journey through 
 
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 Sir Thomas Munro. Post Svo. 3s. 6d. 
 
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 (Lady Doff). The Amber- Witch. Post Svo. 2.?. 
 
 See also Ross. 
 
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 GRIFFITH (Hev. Charlfs). A History of Strathficldsaye. 
 
 With lllus'rations. 4to. '^y. ed.
 
 12 LIST OF WORKS 
 
 GROTE'S (Geobge) WORKS :— 
 
 History of Greece. From the Earliest Times to the 
 Death of AlexHiider the Great. New Eilitmn. Portrait, Map, and 
 Plans. 10 Vols. PostSvo. 5s. each. {The Volumes may be ho.d Separately.) 
 
 Plato, and ot 'cr Companions of .Socrates. 3 Vols. 8vo, 46«.; 
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 Aristotle. 8vo. 12>i. 
 
 Personal Life. Portrait. 8vo. 12«. 
 
 Minor Works, Portrait. 8to. 14s. 
 
 (Mrs.), a Sketch. By Lady Bastlake. Crown 8vo. 6s. 
 
 GUILLEMARD (F. H.), M.D. The Voyage of the Marchesa to 
 
 K.amschitka aiui New Guinea. With Notices of Formosa and the 
 Islands of the Malay Archipelago. New Edition. With M.aps and 150 
 Ilhi.strations. One volume. Medium Svo. 21s. 
 
 HAKE (G. Napier) on Explos-ives. [See Condill.] 
 nA.LL'S (T. D.) School Manual of English Grammar. With 
 Illustrations and Practical Exercises. 12mo. 3s. 6d. 
 
 Primary English Grammar for Elementary Schools. 
 
 With numerous Exercises, and graduated Parsing Lessons. 16mo. Is. 
 
 Manual of English Composition. With Copious Illustra- 
 tions and Practical Exercises. 12mo. 3s. 6c?. 
 
 — = Child's First Latin Book, comprising a full Practice of 
 
 Nouns, Pronouns, and Adjectives, with the Verbs. 16mo. 2s. 
 HALLAM'S (Henrt) WORKS:— 
 
 The Constitutional History of England. Library Edition, 
 
 3 Vols. 8vo. 30s. Cabinet Edition, 3 Vols. Post Svo. 12s. StudenCs 
 Edition, Post Svo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 History of Europe during the Middle Ages. Library 
 Edition, 3 Vols. Svo. 30s. Cabinet Edition, 3 Vols. Post Svo. 12s. 
 Student's Edition, Post Svo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 Literary History of Europe during the 15th, 16th, and 
 17th Cknturies. Library Edition, 3 Vols. Svo. 36s. Cabinet Edition, 
 
 4 Vols. Post Svo. IGs. [Portrait. Fcap. Svo. 3s. 6d. 
 HART'S ARMY LIST. (Published Quarterly and Annually.) 
 HAY {Sir J. H. Drummond). Western Barbary, its Wild Tribes 
 
 and Savage Animals. Post Svo. 2s. 
 
 H.\YWARD (A.). Sketches of Eminent Statesmen and Writers, 
 
 2 VoLs. Svo. 2Ss. 
 
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 LISPINGS from LOW LATITUDES; or, the Journal of the Hon. 
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 Illustrations. Post Svo. 7». 6rf. 
 
 Second Expedition to Africa, 1858-64. Illustra- 
 tions. Post Svo. 7«. 6(i. 
 
 Last Journals in Central Africa, to hi.s Death. 
 
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 LUMFIOIiTZ (De. C). Among Cannibals; An Account of Four 
 Years' Travels in Australia, and of Camp Life amone; tlie Aborigines 
 of Qufeu^laud. With M;ips and 120 Illustrations. MoliiimSvo. 24». 
 
 LUTHER (Martin). The First Principles of the Reformation, 
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 C 2
 
 20 LIST OF WORKS 
 
 LYNDHURST (Lord). [See Martin.] 
 
 McCLINTOCK ( Sir L.). Narrative of the Discovery of the 
 
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 MACDONALD (A.). Too Late for Gordon and Khartoum. 
 
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 nesaieth, &c. A Canoe Cruise in Palestine and Egypt and the Waters 
 of Damascus. With 70 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 MACK AY (Thomas). The English Poor. A Sketch of their 
 S'^cial and Economic History; and an attempt to estimate the influ- 
 ence of private pioperty on character and habit. Crown 8vo. Is 6(/. 
 
 A Flea for Liberty : an Argument against Socialism and 
 
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 ItADLKY. Post 8vo. 2s. 
 
 MAHON (Lord). [See Stanhope.] 
 
 MAINE (Sir H. Sumner). A Memoir of, by Sir M. E. Grant 
 HulT, wi h a Selection from his Indian Speechc-i and Minutes. EJited 
 by WiiiTLFA' Stokks. With Portrait. 8vo. 
 
 Ancient Law : its Connection with the Early History 
 
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 International Law. 8vo. 7?. Qd. 
 
 MALCOLM (Sir John). Sketches of Persia. Post Svo. Zs. Qd. 
 
 MARCO POLO. [See Yule.] 
 
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 (J8) pp.). Crown Svo. 6s. (University Extension Manuals.)
 
 PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 21 
 
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 MOGGRIDGE (M. W.). Method in Almsgiving. A Handbook 
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 MOORE (Thomas). Life and Letters of Lord Byron. [See Byhon.] 
 
 MORELLI (Giovanni). Italian Painters. Critical Studies of their 
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 MUIRIIEAD (John H.). The Elements of Ethics. Crowu Svo. 
 
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 22 LIST OP WORKS 
 
 MUKKAY (John). A Publisher and his Friends : Memoir and 
 
 Con-espondence of the late John Jliinay, with an Account of the Origin 
 and Progress of the House, 17G8 — 184i!. By Samuel Smiles, LL.D. 
 With Portraits. 2 Vols. 8vo. 32*. 
 
 MURRAY (A. S.). A History of Greek Sculpture from tl e 
 
 Earliest Times. With 130 lUustratious. 2 Vols. Medium 8vo. 36.-. 
 
 Handbook of Greek Archaeology. Sculpturf, 
 
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 NADAILLaC (Marquis de). Prehistoric America. Translated 
 
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 NAPIER (Genekal Sir Charles). His Life. By the Hon, 
 
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 (General Sir George T.). Passages in his Eaily 
 
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 (Sir Wm.). English Battles and Sieges of the Peninsular 
 
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 NASMYTH (James). An Autobiography. Edited by Samuel 
 
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 Large Paper, 16s. 
 The Moon : Considered as a Planet, a World, and a 
 
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 NEWMAN (Mrs.). Begun in Jest. A New Novel. 3 vols. 
 
 Crown Svo. 3\s. M. 
 NEW TESTAMENT. With Short Explanatory Commentary. 
 
 By Aechdeacon Chueton, M.A., and the Bishop of St. David's. 
 
 With 110 authentic Views, &c. 2 Vols. Crown Svo. ils.lound. 
 NEWTH (Samuel). First Book of Natural Philosophy; an Intro- 
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 and Sound, with numerous Examides. Small Svo. 3s. 6d. 
 ■ Elements of Mechanics, including Hydrostatics, 
 
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 NIMROD, On the Chace— Turf— and Road. With Portrait and 
 
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 NORRIS (W. E.). Marcia. A Novel. Crown Svo. Gs. 
 
 NORTHCOTE'S (Sir John) Notebook in the Long Parliament. 
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 Beautifully Illustrated, with 96 Woodcuts, Maps, &c. Medium 8\o. 12s. 
 
 O'CONNELL (Daniel). [See Fitzpatkick.] 
 
 ORNSBY (Prof. R.). Memoirs of J. Hope Scott, Q.C. (of 
 
 Abl.otsford). 2 vols. Svo. 24s. 
 
 OTTER (R. H.). Winters Abroad : Some Information respecting 
 
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 OVID LESSONS. [See Eton.] 
 OWEN (LiECT.-CoL.). Principles and Practice of Modern Artillery. 
 
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 OXENHAM (Rev. W.). English Notes for Latin Elegiacs ; with 
 Prefatory Rules of Composition in Elegiac Metre. 12mo. 3s. 6i.
 
 PUBLISHED BY MR MURRAY. 23 
 
 PAGET (Lord George). The Light Cavalry Brigade in the 
 
 Crimea. Map. Crown 8vo. 10s. 6d. 
 PALGRAVB (R. H, L). Local Taxation of Great Britain and 
 
 Ireland, '^vo. 6». 
 
 PALLISER (Mrs.). Mottoes for Monuments, or Epitaphs selected 
 
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 PARKER (C. S.), M.P. [fsee Tekl.] 
 PEEL'S (Sib Robkrt) Memoirs. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 15s. 
 
 Life of: Early years; as Secretary for L'eland, 1812-18, 
 
 i\nd Secretary of State, lS'22-27. I'liblished by his Trustees, Viscount 
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 PENK (RioHARD). Maxims and Hints for an Angler and Chews- 
 player. Woodcuts. Fcap. 8vo. la. 
 PERCY (John, M.D.). METALLDRor. Fuel, Wood, Peat, Coa', 
 
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 By H. BAUEE5IAN, r.G.S. illustra'ioiis. 8vo. 
 
 PERRY (Rev. Canon). History of the English Church. See 
 
 Students' Manuals. 
 PHILLIPS (Samuel). Literary Essays from "The Timea." Wi!b 
 
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 POLLOCK (C. E.), a Book of Family Prayers. Selected from 
 
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 PRINCESS CHARLOTTE OF WALES. Memoir and 
 
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 RAWLINSON'S (Canon) Five Great Monarchies of Chaldsea, 
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 REJECTED ADDRESSES (The). By James and Horace Smith. 
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 ROBERTSON (Canon). History of the Christian Church, from the 
 
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 Students'.] 
 
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 Tiryns : A Prehistoric Palace of the Kings of 
 
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 SHAW (T. B.). Manual of English Literature. Post Svo, 7s. C«/. 
 
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 (Robert). Visit to High Tartary, Yarkand, and Kashgar. 
 
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 26 LIST OF WORKS 
 
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 SMITH (Dr. George) Student's Manual of the Geography of British 
 
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 Life of Dr. Somerville of Glasgow, late Evangelist in India, 
 
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 -^—— Life of Stephen Hislop, Pioneer,Misbionary,and Naturalist 
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 (Philip ). History of the Ancient World, from the Creation 
 
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 SMITH'S (Dr. Wm.) DICTIONAHIES :— 
 
 Dictionary op the Bible; its Antiquities, Biography, 
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