• ■ B - ArJOROFT LiDinumY T L A N T I C ^.,ro,»..i^-^ ..,,-\0 C E A N /* ^ C I F 1 C OCEAN South GcorgijC^ The Author's Itinerary LANDS OF THE SOUTHERN CROSS A Visit to South America BY REV. CHARLES WARREN CURRIER, PH. D. Delegate of the United States to the International Congress of Americanists at Buenos Aires WASHINGTON, D. C. SPANISH-AMERICAN PUBLICATION SOCIETY 1911 H. Bmanceau, S. S., Censor Deputatut. 5a Maii 1911. fmpdmatur. Jacobus Card. Gibbons. 15a Maii 1911. Copyright, 1911, By Chaeles Wabren Cueeieb. .f-r ,( ^ m r i-icrary 807 CONTENTS Chapter I. Preparing for the Voyage. South America untrodden by ordinary Tourist — Inter- est of a Journey — General Observations — Climate — Cost of Trip — Risks — Choice of Route — Languages — Steamship Agencies 15-23 Chapter II. The Voyage. Types of Passengers — Classes on Board — The Verdi — "We're Off" — The American Flag rare on the High Seas — Convenience of Travel Today — Our Doctor — Operation for Appendicitis — Suggestions — Contagi- ous Diseases on Shipboard — Sports — Second Class — Incidents — Halley's Comet — The "Wireless" — Nep- tune's Visit 24-35 Chapter III. Arrival in Brazil. Brazilian Coast Line — First Harbingers of Land — Brazilian Ports — Harbor of Bahia — Entering a Port — Brazilian Money — Landing at Bahia — American Consulate — Modern Conveniences — Business — Relig- ion — The Cathedral — Protestantism — Return to the Ship 36-45 Chapter IV. Rio de Janeiro. Early Rising — Splendid Sky — The Moon, Venus, and the Comet — Wonderful Harbor — Our Flag — A Bit of History — Government of Brazil — Rio de Janeiro — Churches — Great Improvement in Religion — S. Bento — Breakfast at the Abbey — The "Jornal do Bresil" — The Monroe Palace — Influence of Mr. Root — Build- ings — Prices in Rio — Petropolis 46-58 Chapter V. Santos and S. Paulo. Harbor of Santos — Yellow Fever Banished — Coffee — Misericordia Hospital — Schools — Churches — Court- yard of Carmelite Monastery — Tomb of Bonifacio d'Andrada — Diego Feijoo — Proposition to Abolish Celibacy — Influence of Rome — S. Paulo Railroad — History of S. Paulo — General View of S. Paulo — An Educational Centre — College of S. Bento — Mackenzie College — Climate of S. Paulo — Products of Brazil . 59-70 Chapter VI. Montevideo — Landing in Buenos Aires. Steaming down the Coast — Geography — Sources of Uruguayan Wealth — History — Harbor of Montevideo — Going Ashore — The Postoflice — Streets of the City — The Cathedral — Bishop Soler — The Church in Uru- guay — Pocitos, the Fashionable Resort — Steaming Across the La Plata — Buenos Aires — The Docks — The Custom House 71-79 Chapter VII. Argentina. The International Congress of Americanists — Geogra- phy of Argentina — Climate — History — Aborigines — Descendants of Spaniards — Immigrants — Industrial Interests — Banks — Dealings with South Americans — Resources — Manufactories — Railroads — Government —Army and Navy 80-96 Chapter VIII. First Days in Buenos Aires. Rates for Carriages — Hotel Plaza — Population of Bue- nos Aires — Plan of the City — Rapid Transit — The Houses — Names of the Streets — Calle Florida — Post- oflace — Telegraph — American Legation — Plaza de Mayo — The Avenida — The Anarchists — Student Dem- onstrations — The Glul) del Progreso — Palermo Park — Zoological Garden — An Argentine Breakfast — Museo Mitre — Hotel Albion — Opening of the Congress 97-123 Chapter IX. Places — Persons — Manners — Customs. Crowds — Night in Buenos Aires — The Teatro Colon — "Drug Stores" — The Building of Congress — The "Prensa" — Newspapers — Historical Museum — The Reservoir — Jockey Club — The Slums — ^The Working Classes — Public Charities — Argentine Young Ladies — The "Nouveaux-Riches" — Domestic Architecture — Tea and Mat6 124-137 Chapter X. The Church in Argentina. Churches and Parishes — The Cathedral — Tomb of San Martin — Archbishop's Palace — Hierarchy in Argen- tina — The Cassock — Procession of Corpus Christi — San Francisco and Santo Domingo — Argentme Gener- osity — Funerals — The Friars in South America — — Monument to Belgrano — Church of St. Ignatius — Admiring American Methods — The Passionists — Our Lady of Lujan — Reminiscences of Pio IX. — The Infanta Isabel — Irreligion — Protestant Churches . . 138-156 Chapter XI. Education in Argentina. Education in Colonial Period — Public Schools — Sec- ondary and Higher Education — University of La Plata — The Museum — Astronomical Observatory — Cordoba — Catholic Education — Parochial Schools — Catholic University — Protestant Educational Work — Schools of Rev. C. Morris 157-165 Chapter XII. From Buenos Aires to Santiago. Choice of Route — Paraguay — Overland Route to Bolivia — Purchasing a Ticket — The Old Coach Journey — Discomforts — The Pampas — Line of the Railroad — Mercedes — Chacabuco — Mendoza — Transferring to the Narrow-Gauge Road— Sunrise on the Andes — The Ascent — Puente del Inca — Aconcagua — Mountain Sickness — Las Cuevas — The Christ of the Andes — The Tunnel — Old Method of Crossing the Cumhre — The Descent — "The Soldier's Leap" — Los Andes — Santiago 166-187 Chapter XIII. Chile. Geography and Climate — Minerals — Forests — Agricul- ture — Stock JEtaising — Industries — Aboriginal Popula- tion — History — Population — Transportation — Govern- ment — Army and Navy — Cities — Punta Arenas — Val- divia—Coronel—Concepcion— Chilian— Talca . . . 188-200 Chapter XIV. Santiago. Topography — Santa Lucia — Plaza de Armas — Electric Tramways — Women Conductors — Intendencia — Am- brose O'Higgins — The Congress — The Moneda — Na- tional Library — Andres Bello — Jose Toribio Medina — Quinta Informal — National Museum — Alameda — American Legation — Modern Residences — Santiago Society — Drunkenness in the Lower Classes — Cousino Park — House of Pius IX. — Costume of the Women —Newspapers 201-220 Chapter XV. The Church and Education in Chile. The "Conquistadores" — Valdivia — Franciscans — Padre Errazuriz — San Francisco — The Cathedral — Bishop Villaroel — Union of Church and State — The Clergy — Parishes — Societies — Ladies of South America — Catholic Papers — The Seminary — The Dominicans — Augustinians — La Merced — Jesuits — Protestants in Chile — Education in Colonial Times — Present Edu- cation — Pedagogy — State University — Religion in the Schools — Archbishop Casanova — The Catholic Univer- sity 221-241 Chapter XVI. From Santiago to Callao. On to Valparaiso — Vina del Mar — ^W. R. Grace & Co. — Earthquakes — Cosmopolitan Character of Valparaiso — Battle of Valparaiso — The "Oravia" — Coquimbo — Serena — ^Wreck of the Blanco Encalada — Antofagasta — The Railway to Lake Titicaca — Nitrate Industry — Iquique — Arica — The War between Chile and Peru — Mollendo — Difficulty of Landing— Deserted Islay— Guano Islands— Callao— Lima— The Hotel Maury . 242-262 Chapter XVII. Peru. Geography — History — Population— Government — Re- sources — Mines — Agriculture — Climate — Cities — In- vestments — Railroads 263-274 Chapter XVIII. Sacred MemxDries of Lima. Climate — The Cathedral — Crypt of the Bishops — Tomb of Pizarro — St. Toribio — Archiepiscopal Palace — The Church in Peru — Santo Domingo — St. Rose — Uni- versity of St. Mark — San Francisco — St. Francis Solano — Alameda de los Descalzos 275-293 Chapter XIX. Buildings, Ecclesiastical and Civil, of Colonial Lima. The Augustinians — La Merced — The Jesuits — Convent of the Sacred Heart — The National Library — Old Convents — Our Lady of Copacabana — The Inquisition — Palace of the Viceroys — House of Pizarro — Casa de Pilatos— House of Torres-Tagle 294-305 Chapter XX. Modern Lima. The Change — Balconies — Women of Lima — Society — Hotels— Street Cars— Morning— The Bullfight— Trade — The Postoffice — Policemen — Beggars — Lottery Tic- kets — Houses — National Museum — Population — En- virons — Cemeteries — The Dead City of Cajamarquilla 306-318 Chapter XXI. From Callao to Panama. Callao — The Ucay ali — Salaverry — Tru jillo — Sanitary Precautions — Pacasmayo — Memories of Atahualpa — Peruvian Ladies — Loading and Unloading Freight — South American Names — Delays — Characteristic Landing at Eten — Paita — On the Verge of Mutiny — The Admiral — Shipping Oil — End of the Voyage — From La Boca to Panama 319-333 Chapter XXII. Panama. Geography — Climate — Division — Discovery — Population — Indians — Products — Industries — Panama Railroad — Government — Army — Religion — Canal Zone — Old Panama — New Panama — The Cathedral — Ruined Churches— Hotel Tivoli— Ancon Hospital .... 334-350 Chapter XXIII. The Canal— Colon. Line of the Canal — Wonderful Change in Panama — Pacific Entrance to Canal — The Locks — City of Colon — Prevalence of English — Christ Church — Catholic Church — Washington Hotel — Government of Canal Zone — Penal System of Panama — Christobal — Porto- belo— The "Clyde"— Tracy Robinson— Cartagena . . 351-364 Chapter XXIV. Colombia. Geography — Climate — Resources — History — Population — Government — Religion — Bogota — How to Reach It — Literature and Education — Leprosy — The Army — Currency — Cartagena — The Cathedral — Santo Do- mingo — San Pedro Claver — The University — San Francisco — Old Houses — Puerto Colombia — Cannibals —The Coast of Venezuela 365-379 Chapter XXV. The West Indies. Trinidad — Barbados — Boys Diving for Coins — Steam- ship Agents — Hastings — Nelson's Statue — The Cathe- dral—The Ocamo — St. Vincent — The Caribs — St. Lucia — Dominica — Antigua — Nevis — St. Kitts — Brim- stone Hill — St. Eustatius — Ruins — Past History — Saluting the American Flag — Admiral Rodney — Ja- maica — The Bahamas — Home Again 380-395 Bibliography 396-401 ILLUSTRATIONS Page The Author's Itinerary Frontispiece Beiramar Avenue and Botafogo Square, Rio de Janeiro . 48 Avenida Central, Rio de Janeiro 50 Cathedral, Rio de Janeiro 52 Monroe Palace, Rio de Janeiro 64 Republica Square in Santos, with the Statue of Bras Cubas 60 Loading Coffee at Santos 62 Custom House, Montevideo 72 Zabala Street, Montevideo 74 Cathedral, Montevideo 76 Plaza Hotel, Buenos Aires 80 Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires 104 Avenida de Mayo, Buenos Aires 106 Pavillion for Zebus, Zoological Gardens, Buenos Aires . . 114 Plaza del Congreso, Buenos Aires * . . 128 Vestibule of Jockey Club, Buenos Aires 130 Private Residence, Buenos Aires 134 Cathedral, Buenos Aires 140 Mausoleum of General San Martin 142 Museum, La Plata 160 Scene on the Transandine Railway 176 Aconcagua 180 Stone Refuge House, in the Andes 184 Salto del Soldado, the Soldier's leap, in the Cordillera . 186 Plaza de la Independencia, Santiago 202 National Congress, Santiago 206 Senate Chamber, Santiago 208 Alameda, Santiago 212 Chilean Lady with Manto 216 Valparaiso, Chile 242 The Morro, Arica, Chile 258 Street, Lima 274 The Cathedral, Lima 276 Interior of the Cathedral, Lima 278 Tomb of Pizarro 280 University of San Marcos, Lima 288 Church of San Francisco, Lima 290 Senate, Lima 302 Torre Tagle Mansion, Lima . 304 Policemen, Lima 310 Prehistoric Ruins, Peru 316 Cathedral, Panama 344 Statue of Columbus, Cristobal 350 Lock in the Gatun Dam 354 Bolivar Street, Colon 356 Cartagena, Colombia 362 Part of the Old Wall, Cartagena 374 House in the Island of Nevis in which Alexander Hamilton was born 390 Old Fort in St. Eustatius that saluted the American Flag 392 PREFACE No pretense is made in this little work of furnishing an exhaustive study on South America. Volumes would be re- quired for the purpose. I have merely contented myself with gathering my own impressions, and recording the results of such studies as harmonized with the general plan of the book. South America is attracting increased attention, and a num- ber of works are appearing which add to our fund of knowl- edge. I venture to trust that my small contribution will be of some service, as well to the tourist, as to those who wish to form a general idea of the other half of our continent. It is a pleasure to record my gratitude to Mr. Franklin Adams, of the Pan-American Union, and to Mr. C. E. Bab- cock, librarian of the Institution, for their constant willing- ness to aid me by their advice. The friends I made in South America are too numerous to mention, but their memory abides with me. Their works which they lavishly bestowed have proved to be of invaluable assistance. As a delegate of the United States to the International Congress of Americanists, I had opportunities of meeting many whom I, otherwise, would not have known, and I, consequently, feel grateful to our Secretary of State, and to the authorities of the Smithsonian Institution, for the appointment. My character of priest and delegate of the Catholic Univer- sity of America brought me into contact with ecclesiastics, and afforded opportunities to obtain an insight into the religious life of the countries I visited. From the abundance of material I gathered on my journey, both civil and ecclesiastical, I have selected only a minor portion which I now offer to the public. In the lands I had the pleasure of visiting, the Southern Cross shines like our own North Star, and thus the title of my work was suggested. Chapter I PREPAKING FOR THE VOYAGE South America Untrodden by Ordinary Tourist — Interest of a Journey — General Observations — Climate — Cost of Trip — Risks — Choice of Route — Languages — Steamship Agencies. My travels are ended; the reality has passed; only memory remains. I have returned to the solitude of my rooms to live the past months over again, and, in fancy, to retrace my steps, and travel once more over the old paths. Pleasant faces greet me tonight, and silent voices ring in my ears. The companions of my journeys, by sea and land, I will, probably, never meet again ; the friends of a moment have departed, and we have been scattered to the four quarters of the globe. I console myself with the thought, that, wherever these pages will be read, other friends, un- known, but, none the less, dear, will bear me company, sharing with me the pleasures, without the little hard- ships of a long journey, almost around the South American continent. They will appreciate with me whatever of truth, of goodness, or of beauty we shall discover, and should I be disposed to critize, it will be without bitterness, or cynicism. South America, thus far, is an untrodden field for the ordinary tourist; in fact it contains little to attract him. The ordinary tourist follows the crowd; he travels along the beaten track, and the path of least 15 16 Lands of the Southern Cross resistance. He engages passage on a fashionable trans- Atlantic liner, and he does Europe and the "East/' He goes to London, Paris, Switzerland, the Eiviera, Italy and the Mediterranean, and he has begun to go to Spain. He finds first-class accommodations in com- fortable hotels, he sees the things that everybody talks and writes about, and he may do it economically. The facilities for travel in Europe are so great, that he can come and go as he pleases, without delay. In every important city of England and the continent, he finds tourist agencies always ready to furnish him every possible information, and his progress is greatly facilitated. He remains in easy touch with home by mail and telegraph, and, in less than two weeks, he may receive a reply to his letters. Should an immedi- ate return home be necessary, a few days at most will bring him to an Atlantic seaport, and, within a week, he is in the United States. If you decide to go to South America, you make up your mind to spend long days at sea, to wait patiently for steamboats and trains, as well as for mail from home. Should you get away from the large cities, you will take the hotels such as you find them, or, perhaps, do without hotels at all. Even in some of the larger cities you will miss many of the comforts of an Ameri- can or European hotel. Besides, there is the danger of falling sick far from home, a danger which is not at all imaginary, though by some it may be exag- gerated. Yet there are a few tourists who travel through South America merely for pleasure, and, of late, the Hamburg- American line of steamers, and Thomas Cook and Sons have been organizing tourist parties to the Southern hemisphere. The programme of the latter is quite elaborate, covering, as it does, a vast territory. Preparing for the Voyage 17 He who undertakes the journey intelligently will not do so in vain; for there is, indeed, much of interest in South America. The beautiful harbor of Rio de Janeiro, the astounding progress of Argentina, the majestic scenery of the Andes, the vestiges of Inca civilization in Peru, and the historical remains of early Spanish colonization, are so many objects to attract the intelligent and studious tourist. A journey of four months will suffice to give a general, though somewhat superficial, idea of the whole of the South American continent; but years of travel would be required, to form a perfect acquaint- ance with each separate country. Let me suppose, that you intend to visit the prin- cipal portions of South America. Your first aim must be to know something of the countries to which you are going. An ordinary geography may profitably be consulted ; for guide books are scarce. It is impossible to make any general statement that would apply to the entire continent, as the several republics differ to such an extent from each other. The far greater portion of South America lies in the southern hemisphere, the equator passing through northern Brazil and Ecu- ador. The southern hemisphere differs materially from our portion of the globe; for the heavens are different and the earth is different. Owing to the inclination of the earth's axis, as it performs its annual revolu- tion around the sun, the south pole points towards the great luminary, when the north pole is averted from it, and thus when we find ourselves in the snows of Winter, our neighbors to the south are sweltering in Summer heat. As their days grow longer, ours become shorter. The north star which is always visi- ble above our horizon, is never seen in the hemisphere 18 Lands of the Southern Cross south of us, while, on the other hand, the southern cross becomes visible several degrees north of the equator, rising higher, as we proceed further to the south. Again we must distinguish between tropical South America, and that portion of it which lies in the temperate zone, nor must we lose sight of the fact, that there is a vast difference between the Atlantic, and the Pacific coast. By consulting the map, you will observe, that the larger portion of Brazil is in the torrid zone, while the region south of Santos, lies below the tropic of Capricorn. The climate north and south of the Amazon, as far as Eio de Janeiro, at least, is that of the tropics in temperature and in vegetation, but the cooler months south of the equator are those of our Summer, when the southern hemisphere has its Winter. Should you draw a line through the continent from east to west, you will observe that Lima, Peru, is approximately on the latitude of Bahia, Brazil. You will, therefore, naturally look to the Peruvian coast for a climate similar to that of Brazil, as Peru is in the heart of the south tropical zone. Should you, however, pass over from Brazil to Peru, and cross the Cordilleras, you will be surprised to observe an im- mense difference. The antarctic current which sweeps along the Pacific coast, as far north as Cape Blanco, moderates the heat to such an extent that, on the coast of Peru, you forget that you are in the tropics, and, in the Winter months, you will be sometimes obliged to use your overcoat. Southern Brazil, Uruguay, Argentina and Chile are in the south temperate zone. Although it never snows in northern Argentina and Chile, yet the cold in Win- ter is biting, and frost occurs. Preparing for the Voyage 19 The question of the climate naturally suggests the inquiry as to the best time for South American travel. For comfort, it would be well to choose a period be- tween the southern Summer with its great heat, and the Winter with its disagreeable cold. March and April are the Autumn months, while September and October represent Spring in the southern hemisphere. Should you leave the United States in January, you might pass through Brazil or Peru, according to your choice of routes, in February and March. April and May can be agreeably spent in Chile and Argentina, though toward the end of May the cold is sometimes keenly felt. The return voyage may be made through Brazil or Peru in June and July when the heat of the south tropical zone is less intense. If, on the other hand, you leave the United States in July, you may spend September, October, and No- vember in the south temperate zone, and return through the tropics, before the great Summer heat begins. The inconvenience, at this time of the year will be, that, in proceeding southward, you will pass through the northern tropic in a warm season. But the passage is brief. The next question of importance regards the cost. Taking the minimum rates, I find that a tour of the South American coast line can easily be made for little more than five hundred dollars. This tour will allow you to visit Bahia, Kio de Janeiro, Santos, and Sao Paulo in Brazil, Montevideo in Uruguay, Buenos Aires, Santiago de Chile, Lima in Peru, and Panama. To enter into details, I will itemize thus: New York to Buenos Aires . . . |190.00 Santos to S. Paulo 6.00 Buenos Aires to Santiago . . . 70.00 20 Lands of the Southern Cross Santiago to Valparaiso . . , 7.00 Valparaiso to Callao . . . . . 70.00 Callao to Lima and return . . . .40 Lima to Panama . . . , . . 101.00 Across the Isthmus . . . . 2.80 Panama to New York . . . 60.00 1507.20 These rates are, of course, approximate, but, that they are not far from being correct, is proven by the fact that steamship companies sell circular tickets covering the same route for the same price, more or less. This tour can be made in less than four months, allowing for about fifty days at sea, and two months on shore. Taking your hotel bills to average four dollars a day, your board will amount to about two hundred and forty dollars, to which the fees to attendants must be added. On this basis, we may calculate thus : Traveling expenses 1508.00 Hotel bills 240.00 Extras 150.00 1898.00 It will thus be seen that a tour around South America can comfortably be made for less than one thousand dollars. If, instead of crossing the Andes, you should desire to sail around the continent, through the straits of Magellan, the difference in cost will be slight. This journey may be made with little or no risk to the traveller and with no greater danger than one would run in passing through the United States. If there are diseases peculiar to the torrid zone, we must not lose sight of the fact that in our own country we Preparing for the Voyage 21 have to face constant perils in the shape of typhoid and scarlet fever, as well as of pneumonia and diph- theria. To be sure, there are diseases in South America, but the danger has been sometimes exaggerated. In the tropics, there is danger of fevers, but that terrible disease, yellow fever, is disappearing, owing to in- creased sanitary precautions. The Brazilian coast is now almost free from it, and, if Ecuador would fall into line, and clean up Guayaquil, it would soon dis- appear from the western hemisphere. Unfortunately, there are still cases of Bubonic plague, both on the Atlantic and the Pacific, but this is a danger, against which the cautious traveller can easily guard himself. There is no reason why, with ordinary precautions. South American travel should not be considered as safe as that of any part of the world. I speak of the coast; for in the interior, where long days must be spent on horseback, with the scantiest of accommoda- tions, a robust constitution is required. Neither is it safe for one with a weak heart, or weak lungs to undertake a journey to the high altitudes of Bolivia or Peru which may, sometimes, prove fatal. The next thing to be considered is a choice of route. You may go to South America by the Atlantic, return- ing along the West-Coast, or you may take the Pacific route, and come home via Brazil. It is, more or less, a matter of taste, and much will depend on circum- stances. Supposing, that you intend to follow my route, we at once proceed to obtain information. First, we begin to read up South America, in general out- line and in detail, choosing one or more works from the bibliographical list attached to this book. By first studying the countries we intend visiting, we are 22 Lands of the Southern Cross prepared to seek and find the objects in which we art* most apt to be interested, and we avoid the loss of much valuable time. A slight knowledge of the languages spoken in the lands of our journey must, of course, prove to be of great value. Leaving the three Guianas out of the question, it may be remarked that two languages cover the whole of South America, Portuguese in Brazil, and Spanish in the rest. Next to these two, French will be found to be most useful, though English and German are, also, freely spoken, and there is no lack of English and Americans, travelling on business. You will meet these at the large hotels, on the railroads, and on the steamers. After acquiring a general information from books, and from conversation with those who have been over the ground, and sifting out the details, you proceed to the various tourist, and steamboat agencies. Should you desire to purchase a circular ticket, you may save much time and trouble, but you will, also, hamper your freedom of movement which is, naturally, in- fluenced by unforeseen occurrences, that may cause you to change your programme. It is well to obtain all possible information before leaving the United States, for it is not easy to be well informed on the journey, and tourist agencies are not easily found, it they exist at all. The best information may be obtained form the agen- cies of Thomas Cook & Sons, and from those of the Hamburg- American, the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company, and the Lamport and Holt Line. It is a great pity that more cordial affability is wanting among steamship agents abroad, but, we must not for- get, as one of them told me in the West Indies, that they are very busy men. Still it would be well for Preparing for the Voyage 23 those gentlemen to remember that, in these days of great competition, they are not conferring any special favor on the patrons of their lines who apply to them for information. You may proceed to Brazil and Argentina either by way of Europe, or directly from the United States. Innumerable steamship lines connect Europe with South America. You may go from Southampton or from Hamburg, and you may take the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company's boats, or those of the Ham- burg-American, or Hamburg South American lines. The Pacific Steam Navigation Company will take you to Brazil and Uruguay and, through the Straits, to the Pacific coast. From France you may take the Compagnie Generale, the Messageries Maritimes, or the Transport Maritime. You will find steamers for South America from Denmark, Holland and from Aus- tria, while an excellent and quick line runs from Italy. The European steamers will, frequently, allow you to catch glimpses of Spain, Portugal, Madeira, the Canaries, and the Cape Verde Islands, as a number ol them stop at various ports, before reaching Pernam- buco in Brazil. The price of the journey is slightly higher, than the direct route from New York, and, to the time required, must be added that of the voy- age across the Atlantic. If your chioce is the direct route, the Lamport and Holt is the best line to take. Their large new steamers, Vasari and Verdi, will afford you every comfort for the long journey to Buenos Aires, to which they proceed via Bahia, Rio de Janeiro, and Santos. Other steam ers of this line stop at Rio, where a change is made for Argentina. The steamers of the Lloyd Brazileiro line will take you to Rio, while those of the Booth line will convey you to the Amazon up which they proceed for a long distance. Chapter II THE VOYAGE Types of Passengers— Classes on Board— The Verdi— "We're Off" — The American Flag Rare on the High Seas — Con- venience of Travel Today — Our Doctor — Operation for Appendicitis — Suggestions — Contagious Diseases on Ship- board — Sports — Second Class — Incidents — Halley's Comet — The "Wireless" — Neptune's Visit. Sea voyages, more or less, resemble one another, and, in these days of ocean travel, when steamships are ploughing the sea in all directions, it would seem superfluous to write an account of an ocean voyage. Yet there are incidents innumerable to break the mono- tony, and to furnish ample, and interesting material. It was such incidents as these, gathered on a voyage from Genoa to Buenos Aires, that filled one of the volumes of that well-known writer, De Amicis, in his "On Waters Blue." A modern ocean vessel is a world in itself. Although the cares and worries of life seem, to a great extent, left at home, yet the inhabitants of the floating hotel, are human, very human. They bring with them their hopes, their ambitions, and their passions, great and small. As a rule, their existence on board ship makes them fraternize, and become one family, yet the spirit of criticism and gossip finds its way on shipboard. And how many, and how varied are the characters, and temperaments that one meets I There is the man, "hail fellow, well met," who knows everybody from the mo- ment he steps on board. Good-natured fellow, quite 24 The Voyage 25 unselfish, he tries to amuse, and succeeds in making himself obnoxious to the "sensible" folk by his fri- volities. Quite opposite in manner is the lady, with the handsome, but sphinx-like face, who knows no one but her husband, to whom she clings, forgetful appar- ently of the rest of the world. The man who "knows it all" is another character to be found at sea and on land. Then there is the sociologist, the political econ- omist, and the business man, ready to advise and to solve the knotty problems that agitate the mind of humanity. There are the reserved people you are afraid to approach without an introduction, but who, on better acquaintance, are found to be most charm- ing companions. There is the young lady, solitary at first, who permits a growing acquaintance with one who monopolizes her, until the people begin to think, if not to say, that a courtship is in progress, one of those evanescent courtships which end abruptly, when the ship enters her dock, but often leave a wound in the heart. The ocean vessel has its classes too, its aristocracy in the first, its middle class in the second, and its pro letariat in the steerage. These may travel together for weeks, without knowing each other, except by the oc- casional visit of one from the first cabin. What tales of sorrow and adventure, what hopes, what fears ana disappointments lie hidden away down in that lowly steerage, where even the ordinary comforts of life are wanting, or in that second-class cabin, a step above it! And these people, rich and poor, great and lowly, of all races, all languages, all nations, are gathered here to experience the same emotions, share the same hoped and fears, and to be exposed to the same dangers. They have met from all parts of the globe; tomorrow they will part to meet no more; but while they are 26 Lands of the Southern Cross here, they are friends. The wide, illimitable ocean makes them such, and they form one family. Day after day, they will be in each other's company, behold- ing the same sky, the same ocean, and enduring the monotony of the high seas. It may seem surprising, that with all the ships that are crossing and recrossing the seas, so few of them are met. But the ocean is wide, and a ship is only a dot on its surface. This is especially true of the South American route, where weeks may be spent, without meeting a single sail between New York and Bahia. As a rule, the voyage is pleasant, and one sails on Summer seas. A brief account of my own voyage may serve as a type. The Verdi of the Lamport and Holt line is a young ship, only three years old at this writing; but the line is old; for Lamport and Holt have been carrying on trade between South America, Europe, and the United States over sixty years. The passenger service, how- ever, is of comparatively recent development. Their newest vessels the Verdi, and the Vasari, the one of 8,000, and the other of 12,000 tons, are up-to-date ships, and quite comfortable. The company is building two twinscrew steamers that bid fair to compete with the great "transatlantics." These ships are built with a view to the tropics. Speaking for the Verdi, I can say that her rooms are quite comfortable, well ventilated and cool, and electric fans are everywhere. There are no inside rooms. We were booked to leave Brooklyn at 12.30 on April 20 from the out of the way, and not easily accessible docks near the Fulton Ferry Landing. Unless you telephone in time for a carriage to meet you at the landing, you will have quite a walk with bag and bag- gage through a dirty street, with warehouses on one The Voyage 27 side, and docks on the other. But arriving on board, you will meet with great courtesy on the part of the officers and men, and everything will be done to make you comfortable. We did not get out of our dock, until about 2 p. m. to the tune of "Auld Lang Syne," played on a cornet by Mr. Conway, one of the stewards and musicians. We had hardly cleared the docks, than we sat down to lunch, each one to a place of his choice. Before dinner, in the evening, places were assigned by the chief steward. In a few hours, we had passed the "Hook," and we broke our last link with home, when the pilot went down the side of the ship with his bag of mail, and the messages to the loved ones w^ were leaving. To- morrow we shall find ourselves solitary and alone, for American trade to South America is scarce. Not a steamer on this route carries the American flag, a flag once seen in every port, when the United States was less powerful than it is now, but, at present, a rara avis away from our own coasts. There are several freight lines going from the United States to South America, such as the Barber, and Norton lines which operate tramp steamers, the Booth, the Houston, and the line of W. K. Grace. How much more convenient is travel today from what it was to our fathers, or even a few years ago! I went, in 1871, from the West Indies to Europe in a three thousand ton vessel with side wheels. The cabins were all below the deck, or around the dining saloon. At night we had nothing but oil lamps which were put out at 10 o'clock. Compare that with the luxurious steamships of today. Even seasickness is diminishing. Ships are more steady, they are better 28 Lcmds of the Southern Cross ventilated, and the noxious ship odors no longer trouble our olfactory organs. In proceeding from the United States to Argentina, we pass through three zones, the north temperate, the torrid, and the south temperate. Night after night, we note the gradual descent of the circumpolar con- stellations, until the splendid Southern Cross arises from the sea, and Polaris sets, to rise no more. The Southe7^7i Cross consists of four stars, one of the first magnitude, and a smaller star on the right, making in all five. The four larger stars form an irregular cross, of which the star nearest the horizon points southwards, while the others indicate approximately the three remaining cardinal points. If you leave New York in Winter or Spring, it is apt to be cool, and you may encounter heavy seas; but as we advance southward, the waters become calm- er, and the air grows warmer, until you seem to move on an inland sea, and old Atlantic begins to treat us with a gentle hand. As we cross the tropic of Cancer, the heat increases, though often tempered by the cool breezes from the ocean. Officers and passengers doff their Winter clothing, and the former, with some of the latter, appear in white. Our passengers were nearly all persons going to South America with a purpose, several being drawn by the approaching exposition at Buenos Aires, but of tourists, and pure pleasure seekers there were few, if any. One, whom I should mention, was the Italian, Dorando Pietri of Marathon fame, who was going to run in South America. This unassuming young man, one of the champion runners of the world, is an agree- able companion. Among others, were two commission- ers of the United States to the Fine Arts Exposition The Voyage 29 of Argentina and Chile, Messrs. Trask and Browne, and the Spanish singer, Constantino. Our doctor, F. E. Warden, is a pleasant man. It is not long, since he performed an operation on ship- board for appendicitis without much flourish of trum- pet, which is worth recording. The captain had offered to stop the ship, but, reflecting that the long swell would cause still greater motion, the doctor preferred that she should keep on her course. On October 5, 1909, James Young, a steward, was laid up with a cold, and cough, and with gastro-intes- tinal pains. The steamer Byron of the Lamport and Holt line, was homeward bound. It was October 12, in latitude 30.14 degrees north, and longitude 47.38 west, when the doctor and the patient agreed upon an operation, a^ the disease had been recognized as appendicitis, and medical remedies had failed. I will here copy from the doctor's logbook : "James Young. Temperature 100, pain persistent, and located in region of appendix. At 10 a. m., Mr. Young and I determined upon a surgical operation for the removal of the vermiform appendix. A. O. Mills was to continue the giving of the ether or chloroform, Duffy was to hold the instruments, and Heffernan to assist. Sheets, towels, and dressings were sterilized. The assistants took a hot bath, and, also, the doctor. The table of the second class, antiseptized, was covered with sterile sheets; instruments were boiled, and put in soda and carbolic solution. "At 11.20 a. m. began administering ether. At 12.20 p. m. operation performed, appendix removed, wound closed, and patient in bed. It became necessarj', on account of adhesion to the appendix to bring out upon sterile towels some five or six feet of small bowel, adjacent to the iliacoecal valve, until the caecum, and 30 Lands of the Southern Gross appendix appeared, cleansing the small bowel with a saline solution. They were returned to the abdomen, and the appendix removed, the stump touched with phenol, sewed up with catgut, and returned. The tissues were separately sewed up, and the skin wound closed. At 3 p. m. the patient complained of slight nausea. The pain ceased the first time in four days. As soon as rational, from anaesthetic, he said he had no pain, except a slight soreness over wound." The patient completely recovered, and he is again at work. The doctor told me, that he once had a case of diphtheria on the Byron, which they managed to conceal so completely, that only the captain and chief engineer knew of its existence, besides the doctor him- self. It is not pleasant to be at sea with a contagioui?^ disease. On one of my voyages, an Italian child in the steerage was attacked by scarlet fever. The doctor isolated the whole family, consisting of father, mother and two children in the room on deck, utilized as hospital. It was not long before the mother had caught the disease. In a few days, alarming symptoms were discovered, and one night, being summoned by the doctor, I proceeded to administer to her the con- solations of religion. It would have been interesting to my friends to see me standing by the woman^s berth, clad in the doctor's white duck jacket, the husband just outside the door with the baby in his arms, and another child lying asleep, while the few lights cast an uncer- tain glare over the ship at that midnight hour. It was a picture worth remembering. Our doctor did what he could to alleviate the distress of the sufferers, with the slender means at his disposal. These occur- rences, and impressions made on me on different voy- ages have brought some suggestions to my mind. The Voyage 31 On every ship carrying passengers, there should be, in proportion to the number carried, stewardesses for the second class and steerage. One, if not more of these, should be a trained nurse. In every ship, there should be a comfortable locality, where contagious dis- eases may be isolated. In matters of health, the doc- tor's regulations should be supreme, and whatever he orders for the sick, should be given them. One morning the doctor came to the conclusion that it would be better, on arrival at the next port, and on reporting the case to the health authorities, to put the family ashore at the expense of the company, until, after recovery, they might be continued to their destina- tion. He suggested to me to accompany him to the captain with the proposal. We ascended the ladder to the bridge deck, and knocked at the captain's door. As we entered, the latter seemed surprised to see me with the doctor. He would not hear of the proposition, said that they were responsible for the people, and that the hospital ashore could not be relied upon. He appeared displeased at the suggestion. The fact is, that the passengers' contract supposes that infectious patients be put ashore at their own expense. Still I could not but admire the humanitarian sentiments of the captain, and, in the end, I was glad, that we had conveyed the poor people to their destination, though in a case like this, it would seem that the common good should prevail over any individual consideration. It was almost impossible to isolate the patients. The door of their room opened on the deck. This door had to be left open, as it was almost the only means of ventilating the miserable and wretched place, dignified by the name of hospital. Passengers from the second class, and steerage, as well as members of the crew, were constantly passing to and fro, before the open 32 Lands of the Southern Cross door, or congregating in the neighborhood. The feel- ing that one has on board a contagious disease which may spread at any moment, is by no means a pleasant one. A feature of the Lamport and Holt line is that the officers mingle freely with the passengers, thus produc- ing mutually the most agreeable relations. To break the monotony of the voyage, various sports are organized with prize competitions, under the direc- tion of the purser, each of the gentlemen contributing a small sum, for the purchase of prizes from the barber shop. These competitions were held during the beauti- ful tropical afternoons on the deck, that was gaily decorated with flags. The second class and steerage passengers must get up their own amusements, but with the exception of a phonograph, grinding out Spanish songs, and an occassional game of cards, I saw little evidence of sports aft, where the second and third classes were located. There is much to be desired in the accommo- dations of these two classes, though it is to be presumed, that with the improvement of the ships, these will improve also. The rates for the first class are |190 as minimum, and |220 as maximum rates from New York to Buenos Aires, though, from what I have seen, I prefer the rooms of the minimum rate to the higher priced ones which have the advantage of a superior location. Every little incident on shipboard attracts atten- tion. The first Sunday out, a bird of the plover variety was picked up on deck early in the morning. The little animal had, probably, strayed away, or it had been carried out to sea, and no doubt, had sought refuge on the ship. When set at liberty, it showed itself quite tame, walking about among the passengers. TJw Voyage 33 Then it would fly away, and return, until it, finally, disappeared altogether. The observation of the phenomena of nature affords, also, much agreeable occupation. It is a fallacy to suppose that there is neither dawn nor twilight in the tropics, for both are well defined, though the transi- tion is more sudden than in higher latitudes, becoming more so as one approaches the equator. By mutual agreement, a number of gentlemen, among them the writer, were awakened at four in the morning of April 28 to see Halley's comet. Coffee was served in the saloon. The visitor from afar was dis- tinctly visible in the sky, with a well defined tail, pointing away from the sun, and a luminous body. In the same region of the heavens shone Venus with remarkable beauty. We had the pleasure of observing the comet again and again, as it approached nearer to the earth, until we reached Buenos Aires. The Verdi is equipped with wireless telegraphy. The first days out, communication with the land was very difficult owing to constant electrical disturbances around us which not only hampered the operator, but, also, manifested themselves by flashes of lightning. With some difficulty we kept in touch with Atlantic City, and I succeeded in sending a message home by one of the steamers of the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company at Bermuda. Later on we communicated with the men-of-war, Chester and Montana, about 900 miles ahead of us. On crossing the line, the whistle blew a strong blast. We were in the southern hemisphere. The old, and time-honored custom of Neptune and his wife coming on board was not observed until evening. An elabor- ately worked, and artistically decorated proclamation had been posted up in the morning, with the names 34 Lands of the Southern Cross of passengers who, not having crossed the line, were subject to the initiation of Neptune's realm. The piece, done in water color, was made by the chief steward. The picture of a sixteenth century ship headed it. While the passengers were at dinner, the lights in the dining saloon went out, and far off cries fell upon their ears. Neptune had just arrived on board. In a few moments a white clad figure entered, to announce that it was the soul of a departed passenger. The devil, or Mephistopheles, in red attire, entered to pro- claim that those who should withdraw from Neptune's jurisdiction would fall into his power. The bartender, a consummate actor and mimic, was Mephistopheles. At half past eight, the bugle sounded, and a great number of the passengers assembled on the deck aft. The construction of modern steamships is so varied, and so changing, that one hardly knows how to desig- nate any portion of the deck, at a given period. I viewed the ceremony from the bridge deck, above. A large water tank of canvas had been prepared. At the sound of fairly good music, Neptune and his attend- ants entered, and took up their positions. Then began a wild dance, to the sound of the "tom tom," remind- ing one of an Indian, or African dance. Mephisto- pheles now began to call out the names of passengers, by means of a megaphone. Three ladies, by their own wish, were initiated. So far ; so well. After this, the show degenerated into a rough and tumble horse play. The first lady knelt before Neptune. Questions were put to her, and her replies were announced by megaphone, then a mixture of something like ginger ale and whiskey was poured into her mouth, she was smeared with flour, and a pretense was made of giv- ing her a shave, and, finally, she was pushed into the tank. Two other ladies followed. It is needless to The Voyage 35 state that their appearance after the bath, was far from graceful. The male passengers were now subjected to treat- ment more or less rough, and pandemonium began. There was a general splashing about in the water, Neptune's attendants plunging in indiscriminately, and, in fact, some unseen hand threw Mephistopheles into the water, to the great discomfiture of that gentle- man. Gradually the passengers retired, and the show went out. The performance would, to my taste, have been more interesting had it been less rough. The performers were stewards aided by a few passengers. I can imagine a play like this among the rough sailors of our fast departing sailing ships, but it seemed un- dignified for a large passenger steamer. I am told, however, that this old custom is falling into desuetude. In some regards, it is a pity, and it may well be con- tinued, provided no one be forced into the tank against his will. In these days, when the poetry of the sea is disappearing, it is refreshing to preserve some things that remind one of bygone days. Before I close this chapter, I consider it a pleasant duty to mention our most courteous Captain Byrne, a gentleman in every respect. His afternoon "teas,'' at which he was accustomed to invite several of the passengers in turn, contributed their share, toward breaking the monotony of the voyage. Chapter III ARRIVAL IN BRAZIL Brazilian Coast Line — First Harbingers of Land — Brazilian Ports — Harbor of Bahia — Entering a Port — Brazilian Money — Landing at Bahia — American Consulate — Modern Conveniences — Business — Religion — The Cathedral — Protestantism — Return to the Ship. Our good ship the Verdi had sailed from New York almost in a straight line, passing the Bermuda Is- lands which were not sighted. At Cape S. Roque, the coast of Brazil deflects more toward the south. As we, too, turned southward, a long stretch of invisible coast line lay behind us. Far away to the northwest on the equatorial line, the great Amazon was pouring its waters into the sea, but we were now below the fifth parallel of southern latitude, nearing the coast. Brazil, the largest country in South America, has a coast line nearly 6,500 kilometers, or more then 4,000 miles in length, which extends from latitude 4° 20' 45" north, to latitude 33° 46' 10" south. Although the far greater portion of the country is in the tropics, it will be seen, by looking at the map, that no incon- siderable territory lies in the south temperate zone. The first harbingers of land appeared on Sunday, May 1st, in the shape of a flock of boobies. They camt, as though to announce that we were approaching the coast, nor were they followed by others. The sight 36 Arrival in Brazil 37 of land is most welcome, when one has spent weeks, or even days at sea, and no matter how much the ocean is loved, the land is always hailed with delight. We had seen only one ship, since leaving New York, and hence we were much pleased when, about this time, several vessels were sighted. This was another sign of land. Finally, on the morning of May 2d, the Brazilian coast lay to starboard to rejoice our heart. The first city of which we were to catch a glimpse in the distance was Kecife of Pernambuct>. Many of the European steamers stop at this port, but the Lamport and Holt line passes it. North of this port, Brazil possesses several well- known harbors. Para, also known as Belem, at the mouth of the Amazon, is the capital of the state ol that name. Manaos, a thousand miles up the river, is the chief city of the state of Amazonas, and the center of the rubber trade. The largest steamers can come up the river to Manaos. Further down the coast, midway between Para and Pernambuco, lies Maranhao, with a trade in sugar and cotton. The exports of Pernambuco consists principally of sugar, cotton, hides, skins, and rum. There is, also, a great deal of fishing on the coast, to judge from the number of fishing crafts met with many miles out to sea. These vessels, if vessels they may be named, are rafts made of logs fastened together, known as "Jangadas." They carry a mast and sail. Seats are placed on the raft, but as the water splashes over the logs, the feet of the fishermen are always wet. They go out to a distance of twenty, or thirty miles from the coast. The land remained in sight all day, sometimes low, and again rising into distant mountain ranges that 38 . Lands of the Southern Cross run parallel to the coast in eastern Brazil. At inter- vals smoke was to be seen, which, no doubt, proceeded from the sugar plantations. On the following day, long stretches of beach were often visible. The land- scape was varied with very white cliffs, and with cul- tivated lands. We approached nearer and nearer to the coast, until we ran into the Bay of Bahia, a name which signifies "bay," and which is borne by one of the provinces of Brazil. The city itself, gen- erally called Bahia, is really S. Salvador, although it is seldom designated by that name outside of Brazil. Bahia is about 400 miles south of Pernambuco. Our Verdi made a record run from New York to Bahia in less than thirteen days. The scenery, upon entering the harbor, which is regarded as one of the best in the world, is splendid. First the hill, known as the Barra, at the entrance, becomes more and more distinct, crowned with the church of S. Antonio da Barra, until the panorama of the town, upper and lower, with its varied details, stands outlined before you. Great is the excitement on board ship, on entering a port, after weeks at sea. Eyes are strained, and all are eager to seize upon every feature of the occa- sion. We cast our anchor a mile or two from shore, about four in the afternoon. The first incident of note was the arrival of the doctor and of the police authori- ties. They came in separate boats. The visit of the doctor is anxiously awaited, on entering a port, for no one may land, until he has given his fiat, and the yellow flag is lowered. He is received at the head of the ladder by the ship's doctor, who gives him his report, and the ship's bill of health. The police au- thorities were accompanied by a considerable number of colored men in sailor attire, with swords dangling Arrival in Brazil 39 from their sides. They seemed to be quite aware of their importance. Loading, and unloading now begins, and great light- ers are towed alongside. At the foot of the ladder, a large number of boats, manned by colored men, are rising and falling on the swell, with the boatmen clamoring at the top of their voices for passengers. Before going ashore, you strike a bargain with your boatman. The most economical way is to form a party. There were six in ours. Agree for the return trip, and be sure not to pay until you have returned to the vessel, lest the boatman have you at his mercy. On landing, remember the name of your boat, and it» position at the wharf, and designate the hour of your return. The usual fee for the round trip is two mil- reis, which at the rate of exchange then prevailing, amounted to about 62 cents. It is well to obtain a certain amount of Brazilian money from the purser, a day or two, before your arrival. At present the Brazilian currency is mostly paper, but it seems that an effort is making to accumulate a gold reserve in the treasury, and to issue certificates, with the with- drawal of the old, and dirty paper from circulation. As Brazilian money is rather puzzling to the uniniti- ated, it is well to learn something of it before going ashore. Our amiable, and obliging purser, Mr. K. A. Hulse, was always most willing to impart informa- tion, and I am especially indebted to him for the knowledge I acquired in this regard. The values of Brazilian currency are approximately as follows, but the fluctuation of exchange must be borne in mind : Notes. One thousand milreis (1000?000) or one conto de ruo is valued at $315.00. .57.50 lOfOOO— : 1 3.05 59.00 5|000== 1.55 29.50 2|000r=: .62 14.75 1$000= .31 6.10 (old large; new small )=| .62 z=z .31 .15-4 = .12-i (old large; new small ) = .07 z .03-J .02 40 Lands of the Southern Cross 2OOIOOO11Z 1001000= 501000= 201000= Silver ■ 21000 IfOOO 500 reis Nickel : 400 reis 200 '' 100 " 50 " The copper coins are 40, 20, 10 and 5 reis. One milreis is written 1$000. The figures 30|264 must be read 30 milreis and 264 reis. Our boatman took us ashore for one and a half milreis for each person for the round trip. The boat was manned by two colored men, a sail was hoisted, and oars were also used. It took us three quarters of an hour, to reach the shore. French, German and Brazilian steamers lay in the harbor, besides a few square rigged vessels. Dodging lighters and small boats, we finally reached the wharf, and stepped on land. It was like dropping suddenly into a new world. By a pleasing coincidence. May 3, on which we landed is the anniversary of the discovery of the country. Ot course it is a national holiday, and, therefore, official business was suspended, and the consulates were fly- ing their respective flags. Although Vicente Yafiez Pinzon had first discovered the northern coast of Brazil from Cape San Augustin to Cape Orange in Arrival in Brazil 41 1500, it was Cabral who, sighting land on April 22, 1500, anchored at Porto Seguro in the state of Bahia, and first took possession of the country in the name of the king of Portugal. Brazil celebrates the anniver- sary on May 3. Bahia is the third largest city of Brazil, with a population which twenty years ago amounted to 200,000 and now is nearer 300,000. It immediately followed Rio de Janeiro, being equal to S. Paulo. A very large proportion of this population, some say 80 per cent, is of negro blood. This is the residuum of the slave trade that once flourished here. Hence it is that negroes and mulattoes are everywhere in abundance, though they do not give the same poverty-stricken impression as the negroes of the West Indian Islands. The city is built against the hills with an upper and a lower town. To proceed from one to the other, you may follow the old time way of walking up, take the incline railway, or either of two elevators, constructed by the Otis Elevator Company. On the wharf, as you land, you may purchase fruit, or other native products. Especially noticeable are the little marmosets or monkeys, hardly larger than a good sized rat. After going up to the town above by an elevator, we set out in search of the American consulate, as the newly appointed consul to Bahia, Mr. B. F. Warner, was of our party. The sight of the American flag was most agreeable, and we received a hearty welcome from the vice-consul who remained with us, until our return to the ship. The people of whom we made any in- quiries were invariably polite, though no one seemed to pay much attention to us, unless spoken to. It is evident, that the inhabitants of Bahia are quite ac- 42 Lands of the Southern Cross customed to the presence of strangers. There was no obtrusion on the part of importunate venders, though we observed a few beggars seated at various points, and imploring alms in that pitiful tone of voice, so characteristic of the Latin beggar, who seeks your charity with a prayer on his lips. Bahia may boast of a number of modern conveni- ences, besides its elevators, such as electric cars of Philadelphia construction, and electric lighting. In spite of these modern improvements, the city retains its colonial appearance, perhaps more so than other cities of Brazil. Business seems here to be principally in the hands of Germans, though there are a number of English residents. Americans are very few. The tobacco trade is especially prominent here, but there is, also, com- merce in coffee, cocoa, tobacco, skins and wood. Among the many investments of capital in Brazil, railroads are especially prominent. The first railroad dates from 1856. It ran from the bay of Eio, to the foot of the mountain upon which Petropolis stands. Most of the early lines were built with the assistance of the government, though, at present, a considerable amount of foreign capital is invested in them. Toward the end of the empire, there were about 5,273 miles of rail- road in operation, and since the beginning of the repub- lic a great many more have been added. Several rail- way lines exist in the state of Bahia. A casual visitor to the city, like myself, may gain much information regarding the life of the people by the careful perusal of a daily paper, like the Jornal de Noticias. The opinions of individuals in private con- versation must be taken with caution, as they are apt to be biased by political, as well as religious preju- dices. Arrival in Brazil 43 The Jornal de Noticias deplores the decrease of intellectual life which was once a characteristic of the city. That it is not extinct, however, is evidenced by the public lectures that seem to be in favor. One was announced for the day of my visit to Bahia in the hall of the Italian Beneficial Society, on "A Journey across the Americas." Although Church and State are no longer united in Brazil, as they were in the days of the empire, there be- ing now no official church, the Roman Catholic religion is still the prevailing religion of the people. Bahia is full of churches, many of them being quite old. As the day declined, the sweet sound of church bells fell upon our ears, the summons, no doubt, to the devotions of the month of Mary, which were conducted, as I learned, in a number of churches and chapels, either in the morning, or at various hours of the day and evening. They, also, take place in private chapels, like that attached to the residence of Senhor Joao Taveres da Silva, where they were held with great splendor. On the great square, known as the Praza de Palacio, stands the Cathedral. This church belonged to the Jesuits, before their suppression by the Portuguese Minister Pombal, toward the close of the eighteenth century. It is built in the style of the Jesuit Renais- sance, and a statue of St. Ignatius on the fagade still shows its origin. The large building adjoining it, now the school of the faculty of medicine, was evidently their college. Outside of the building, a memorial tablet keeps fresh the memory of the Jesuit, Father Antonio Vieira, one of the classic writers of Brazil whose centenary was celebrated two years ago. Born in 1608, Father Vieira came to Brazil in 1641 in the suite of Don Fernando de Mascarenhas. He was an 44 Lands of the Southern Cross extraordinary man, says Southey, not only by his eloquence, but in all things.^ The interior of the cathedral is gorgeous. Like most Brazilian churches, it has two pulpits, opposite each other. The monastery of the Franciscans in Bahia is espec- ially noteworthy for its artistic work on Dutch tiles.- I am told, that Protestantism which, a few years ago, was unknown in Bahia, is, at present, very active. Protestant propaganda is carried on by sermons on Sundays and Thursdays, and by the distribution of literature. Proselytes are won particularly among the lower white classes. The Brazilian people, as a body, are surely attached to the old church, at least in form, but there is no doubt that there, as elsewhere, a spirit of rationalism prevails among certain classes. On the occasion of my visit, the question of per- mitting cremation was agitated. As in the tropics generally, funerals take place on the day of death. In some cases, they are conducted with great pomp. Ee- ligious services are generally held, and, as with us, offerings of flowers are made. It is quite strange that, while in Spanish America, universities existed everywhere, from Mexico to Chile and the La Plata countries, Brazil has never had a university up to the present. However, separate facul- ties, such as that of medicine, exist, the one in Bahia being quite well known. As we wandered through the streets of the old city, darkness fell upon us with tropical swiftness. We 1 Compendio de Historia do Brazil. Raphael M. Galanti, S. J., Vol. II, No. 304. 2 See The New Brazil by Marie Robinson Wright. Arrival in Brazil 45 descended to the lower town which was fast becoming deserted, it being entirely devoted to business. Our boat was waiting for us, and we shoved off from the wharf with myriads of celestial lights sparkling above us in the tropical sky. As the light of the city fell back into the darkness of the night, the hull of our good ship with its welcoming lights grew more distinct. With the old song "Home again, home again, from a foreign shore," we drew nearer. The curly head of a little boy, a great favorite on board, appeared at one of the port holes, and our fellow passengers who had remained on the ship, welcomed us on board. Within a couple of hours we had weighed anchor, and the Verdi, trembling m her whole frame, responded to her engines, and headed further to the south. Chapter IV. EIO DE JANEIEO. Early Rising — Splendid Sky — The Moon, Venus, and the Comet — Wonderful Harbor — Our Flag — ^A Bit of History — Government of Brazil — Rio de Janeiro — Churches — Great Improvement in Religion — S. Bento — Breakfast at the Ab- bey — The "Jomal do Bresil" — The Monroe Palace — In- fluence of Mr. Root — Buildings — Prices in Rio — Petropolis. Morning found us smoothly steaming off the Brazil- ian coast, and the fourth of May was spent in the pleasant anticipation of soon beholding what is known as one of the most beautiful, if not the most beautiful, harbor in the world. I utilized my time in conversa- tion with a Brazilian gentleman who had come on board at Bahia, and whom I found to be thoroughly well informed. From a fellow passenger who was to leave us at Kio, I learned that an office of the United Wireless Com- pany was to be established in the capital of Brazil, and that their apparatus was to be installed on all the ships of the Lloyd Brazileiro line. Further, stations were to be established at Buenos Aires, Rio, Bahia, Pernambuco, Ceara, Para and Barbados, whereby a continuous chain would be formed to obtain communi- cations from ships, and, thus promote their safety. The Brazilians are now in possession of several wire- less stations. 46 Rio de Janeiro 47 At nightfall of Thursday, May 5, we were still steam- ing on ; but a few hours later found us off the harbor of Eio de Janeiro, which, however, we made no attempt to enter, until after sunrise. Rio is 749 miles from Bahia. I arose at four. The sky was magnificent, with the moon, Venus, and the comet forming such a splendid combination, as will never be seen again, by the present generation at least. As the light came creeping on, and the comet's tail seemed to fade into nothingness, a fog arose which was to mar our enjoyment of the entrance into the harbor of Rio de Janeiro. It was January 1, 1502, that a Portuguese fleet first entered this bay, called by the natives Guanabara or Nictheroy, and to which, imagining it to be the mouth of a river, they gave the name of Rio de Janeiro, or River of January.^ We may well imagine the delight of those early Portuguese, when in Midsummer of 1502, perhaps on a sunlit day in January, they entered a harbor which by its name was to perpetuate forever the memory of its discovery. It was a precious New Year's gift to the mother country. Even today, in spite of the fog, the beauties of this wonderful harbor impress themselves upon us, though the memories of other lands and other ports may strug- gle in our fancy for the palm. One by one, the details of the long entrance to the harbor are unfolded to our wondering gaze, we know not upon which side of the vessel to fix our attention, we pass from one to the other. Then, lo ! the great characteristic feature of the Bay of Rio looms up, the sugar loaf mountain. The harbor proper becomes more and more visible through the fog, and we discern the shipping, passenger 1 Galanti. Historia do Brazil, Vol. 1, 43. 4^ Lands of the Southern Cross steamers of various European lines, merchant vessels, and men-o'-war. Far out toward the land, several Brazilian gunboats lie at anchor, then we notice the Don Carlos, the Portuguese warship which is stopping at Rio en route to Buenos Aires, and nearer to us, becoming more distinct as we advance, the new battle- ship, the Minas Geraes, recently built for Brazil, truly a beautiful vessel. The Brazilian navy consists of 31 vessels, among which are three battleships.- And what is that grey-colored ship not far from the Minas Geraes? There is no mistaking the fact, we know her at once, she flies the stars and stripes. Cheers arise from our deck, as we pass the South Dakota. It is like catching a glimpse of home. Yet our hearts are not free from sadness, as we view this solitary American flag. We shall see it again, but always in its loneliness and, excepting a little cable steamer in Cal- lao, only waving from warships. What has become of the flag, that once carried our trade to every port? All around us we shall see the British, German, French, Italian and Dutch flags, but for our own, the flag of our country, we shall look in vain upon the seas. The South Dakota will send her boat to the Verdi for mail, as soon as we anchor, then she wdll speed southward to Bahia Blanca, in Argentina, to add her share to the Argentine festivities of the centennial year. With this passing memory of our far away land, and with these reflections, we once more turn our attention to the shore. Again the police regulations are com- plied with, the doctor's visit is completed, and the cus- tom house authorities come on board, to stand guard, lest contraband articles are shipped ashore. We have 2 Bulletin. International Bu reau of American Republics, July, 1910. Rio de Jmieiro 49 cast anchor, for, though Kio is building splendid docks, which will enable vessels to discharge their cargo directly to the land, they are not yet completed, and ships must still anchor far out from the shore. The arrangements for landing, and the fees are the same as at Bahia, but at Rio we have the advantage of the launch of the Lamport and Holt company which runs at intervals from ship to shore, and takes the passengers free of charge. Find out the hours, when the launch leaves the shore, and you may go on land without anxiety. Availing ourselves of the launch, we left the good ship Verdi for a few hours. The city of S. Sebas- tiao do Rio de Janeiro grew larger and larger, in that brilliant morning sun of the tropics, with the dome of the Candelaria church almost directly in front of us, and the fortress-like Benedictine abbey of S. Bento on an eminence to our right. In a short while, we found ourselves on Brazilian soil. As we are now in the capital of Brazil, it must prove useful and agreeable to us to form some acquaintance with the history, and the present conditions of the country. To these I devote a passing word, before proceeding in our study of the first city of the land. A very few years had passed, after the discovery of America by Columbus, when Europeans first beheld the coast of Brazil. In the meantime. King John II of Portugal, believing, as others did, that the lands found by the Spaniards formed a part of India, began to make war-like preparations, as he considered his rights invaded. The difficulty was smoothed over by the famous bull of Pope Alexander VI which drew a line of demarcation from pole to pole, giving to Spain all territory west, and to Portugal that which lay to east of it. This bull was dated in 1493, the year after the 50 Lands of the Southern Gross discovery of America. Seven years later, on April 22, 1500, Cabral sailing at the head of a Portuguese fleet, sent out by King Manuel of Portugal to India, sighted Brazil to which he gave the name of Vera Cruz, later changed to Santa Cruz. On the twenty-fourth, they entered a harbor which they named Porto Seguro. The following year, another expedition sailed along the coast, and discovered the harbor to which the name of Kio de Janeiro was given. From this period on, the colonization of Brazil, as it came to be called, proceeded slowly, until, in 1549, a central government was appointed for the whole country. Three years later, the first Bishop was named at S. Salvador, in the person of Pedro Fernandes Sardinha. Toward the end of the sixteenth century, the country passed under the domin- ion of Spain, and went through a number of vicissi- tudes, owing to the wars with the Dutch and the English. In 1640 it returned to Portugal, and, in 1650, the Dutch who had occupied a portion of the coast, were driven out. Even to this day, evidences of this Dutch occupation are still visible in Pernambuco and Bahia. The bay of Eio de Janeiro had, at first, been settled by the French, but these were driven out in 1567. The progress of Eio de Janeiro was slow, until, in 1763, it became the seat of the viceroy who governed the colon}' for the King of Portugal. During the Napoleonic wars, the royal family of Portugal removed to Brazil, thus making Kio de Janeiro a royal residence, and adding to its importance and splendor, until, in 1821, the sovereign returned to Portugal. Brazil that had tasted the sweets of independence and sovereignty, refused to be reduced once more to the condition of a colony, and declaring itself an empire, placed Don Pedro de Braganza, eldest son of the King of Portugal I Eio de Janeiro 51 on the throne, as Pedro I. In 1831, Pedro I abdicated in favor of his son Don Pedro II whose reign continued until 1889, when a peaceful revolution put an end to it, and established a republic which still endures. Brazil is a federal republic, modeled, more or less, on that of the United States, the separate states having their autonomy, and the whole being governed by a President and Federal Congress at Rio de Janeiro. After a few intestine struggles, the country appears to be moving rapidly on the road to prosperity with a population of between seventeen and twenty-two mil- lions.^ Rio de Janeiro, the population of which amounts to about 800,000, is fast becoming a modern city, while its old and picturesque features disappear. The efforts of the Brazilians have been rewarded by the fact that Rio is now a healthy city and that yellow fever, the scourge of the tropics, has been banished from it. Built in a semi-circle, at the head of the bay, it is not unlike Naples in appearance. The beautiful drive along the shore, the Beira-mar, may well be regarded as one of the finest in the world. The old, character- istic street, the Rua do Ouvidor is still there, but, most likely, it will not be long, before it will be entirely modernized. On the other hand, the modern Avenida Central is one of the finest in America. The churches of the colonial epoch are built in the style of the Renaissance with a profusion of gold decor- ations. The most important of these, by its general appearance, and the magnificence of its decorations, is that of Nossa Senhora da Candelaria, built of marble, and founded in 1630. Its dome must invariably attract the attention of the stranger who approaches 3 Bulletin Comm^moratif de 1 'Exposition Nationale de 1908. 52 Lands of the Southern Cross the shore from the harbor. The Candelaria belongs to one of the Irmandades, or brotherhoods of the city, associations of laymen that own ecclesiastical property, and serve as a link to bind men to the church, though their independence sometimes creates difficulties. The Candelaria is, also, a parish church. Next in importance to the visitor is the cathedral which, in the days of the empire, served as a chapel to the imperial family. It is comparatively small, and hardly in keeping with the dignity of a see like Kio de Janeiro whose present bishop. His Eminence, Cardi- nal Alcoverde de Albuquerque Cavalcanti, is one of the two American archbishops occupying a seat in the Sacred College. Among modern churches, that of St. Alphonsus, belonging to the Kedemptorist Fathers, and built in the Komanesque style, deserves attention. The Kedemp- torists are among the many foreign priests now active in Brazil. They are scattered over South America, and deservedly rank among the most efficient and zealous of the South American clergy. In the days of the empire, the church, united to the state, had fallen into a condition of decrepitude, and the morals of the clergy, secular and regular, were greatly relaxed ; but in the last twenty years a wonder- ful reformation has taken place. The efforts of the late Pope, Leo XIII, and of Cardinal Gotti, who, as Nuncio to Brazil, began the reformation, as well as of Monsignor Guidi, have been crowned with success. Formerly there were few dioceses, while, at present, their number has been greatly increased to the immense advantage of the Brazilian church. The archbishop of Bahia is primate of Brazil. As you ascend toward the Avenida Central from the landing place, you will observe a group of edifices with CATHEDRAL^ RIO DB JANEIRO Rio de Janeiro 53 a large church on an eminence to your right. It can- not fail to draw your attention. It was to this church that I first proceeded. Ascending a lofty flight of steps, I found myself in an open space before the church, where a number of boys in uniform were drill- ing. Entering the sacred edifice, I at once recognized the style of the seventeenth century. I was not mis- taken, for, before the altar, I found the tomb of the foundress. Dona Victoria de Sa, who died August 26, 1667. X was in the church of the old Benedictine Abbey of S. Bento. In a magnificent courtyard, resplendent with the light of a tropical day, and surrounded by shady clois- ters, I seemed to be in some far off monastery of the Orient. Massive doors, immense staircases, marble floors, beautiful ceilings with wood carving, a large choir behind the church, a long and silent refectory, all recalls days of monastic splendor. But the abbey had fallen into dtecay. Deplorable rtelaxation had crept into the monastic orders of Brazil, the govern- ment of Don Pedro had forbidden them to receive novices, and the orders were dying out. The abbey of S. Bento was reduced to one member, the abbot, who possessed its great wealth. But all that has been changed. With the general reformation of ecclesias- tics, the old abbey began to revive. Benedictine monks were brought from the congregation of Beuron in Ger- many, and, today, the abbey is again peopled with a community of zealous monks who conduct a flourishing college, one of the best in Brazil. The Benedictines and the Jesuits are among the first educators of the country. In this, and in other military colleges, offi- cers of the army are detailed to drill the boys, and sixty days of each year, for three years, spent in exer- cises, take the place of military service. 54 Lands of the Southern Cross My first guide in Eio Janeiro was a Flemish Prae- monstratensian Father, the Eev. Jos6 Carlos Boelaerts, of Minas Geraes, who happened to be in the city. I must acknowledge the kindness of the good Bene- dictine Fathers at whose hospitable board I had the pleasure of becoming acquainted with the Papal Nun- cio, Monsignor Bavona, who is dean of the diplomatic corps. In the afternoon of the never-to-be-forgotten day, spent in the capital of Brazil, Dom Miguel Kruse, the Benedictine abbot of S. Paulo, devoted himself entirely to my service. How could I forget that tropical day, tempered by the approaching cool season of the south- ern hemisphere! It is a delightful memory, to look out of my window over the harbor, and see ferry boats reminding one of New York plying to and fro, to hear again the cannon of the Don Carlos, as she fires her parting salute before leaving for Buenos Aires, and to gaze upon the Brazilian gunboats, swinging lazily at anchor. I still see upon a distant hill the military hospital which, long ago, was a Jesuit college, before the suppression of the order. Go with me to breakfast with the good monks, and, after a brief walk in the cloister, we shall proceed to view some points of interest in the city. It is about eleven o'clock. In all South American countries, as in Latin Europe, nothing is taken until then, but a cup of coffee and a little bread with butter. From eleven to one is the hour for breakfast, when a copious meal, consisting, with some variations, of soup, several portions of meat and a desert is enjoyed. In the Bene- dictine abbey, all is silent during the meal, and one of the monks reads from some useful work, in the soft language of Portugal and Brazil. It is generally MONROE PALACE, RIO DE JANEIRO Rio de Janeiro 66 known, that Friday, according to the rules of the Catholic church, is a day of abstinence, on which flesh meat is forbidden; yet, though today is Friday, we, at least the guests, are eating meat in this Benedictine refectory. The Holy See has granted a general dispen- sation in this regard to the whole of Latin America, excepting some few days of the year, upon which absti- nence must be observed. We have enjoyed our Benedictine breakfast and now, though it is in the heat of the day, we shall begin our excursions; but we shall take an automobile, for these machines in Kio de Janeiro and Buenos Aires are as common as in the United States. Flying along the beautiful Avenida Central, we pay our first visit to the new building of the Jornal do Brazil. There are two very prominent newspapers in Kio, the buildings ot which are opposite each other, as the papers are opposed to each other in policy. They are the Jornal do Commercio and the Jornal do Brasil. The latter has erected a fine building, one of the highest in the city, consisting of ten stories, with a splendid view of the city from the summit. The machinery in this building is run entirely by electricity. As we speed along, we shall be struck by the cleanly- appearance of the new streets, so different from what older works on Brazil may have led us to anticipate There are asphalt pavements which, unlike those of Washington, do not soften under the influence of heat. Perhaps we shall meet, here and there, with an automobile ambulance of the "Assistencia publica,*' the service of which, I understand, is excellent. This affords me an opportunity to mention the "Misericor- dia'' hospital, one of the largest in existence. As we drive along the Avenida Beira-mar, we shall pass the Monroe Palace which, built for the St. Louis 56 Lands of the Southern Cross Exposition, was removed to Rio, named to honor the Monroe Doctrine, and inaugurated on the occasion of Mr. Root^s visit. It is built in the classic style of the Renaissance. No American of late has exercised such a marked influence in South America as Mr. Root. His name seems to be in benediction. This is especially true of Brazil, where American capital began to increase remarkably, a short time after he had been in the country, and where American influence is, perhaps, stronger than elsewhere in South America, with the possible exception of Peru. The electric cars, as well as the electric and gas lighting are flnanced and man- aged by American and Canadian capitalists. From the Avenida Beira-mar, if your time permits, you may visit a number of other interesting sites, such as the garden of the Praca Tiradentes, with the statue of Don Pedro I in the centre. A number of other statues and monuments elsewhere add to the beauty of the city, such as the statue of the Viscount de Rio Branco in the public garden, known as the "Gloria," while Rio de Janeiro may boast of a considerable number of parks and public gardens. The botanical garden is open several days of the week, while, for admittance to the zoological garden a small fee of 500 reis, or a little more than flfteen cents is charged. Among the public buildings, those of the senate and of the chamber of deputies will draw your attention, for their importance in the economy of government, rather than for architectural beauty. To these may be added the buildings of the various secretaries of the cabinet, such as of foreign relations, of "Fazenda," or the Treas- ury, of industry, of agriculture, of the interior and justice, of the navy and of war, as well as the general postoffice, and the supreme court. The government Rio de Janeiro 67 building is a square edifice, with two stories above the ground floor, constructed in elegant classic style, with five statues above the facade. A visit to the National School of Fine Arts will give you an idea of the work of Brazilian sculptors and painters, and the beautiful new library, the best in South America, is worth inspection. The municipal theatre in the Avenida Central is a beautiful Renaissance building, worthy of any modern city. Among the stores, the Casa Colombo in the Avenida Central will surely draw your attention, if you go shopping. It is seven or eight stories high, occupying an area of 5,600 square metres, or somewhat more than 18,000 feet. Brazil has the reputation of being one of the dearest countries in the world. By giving a few prices as they exist in Rio, I will let the reader judge for himself. Room and board at a first-class hotel will cost from ten to sixteen milreis, or from three to five dollars a day. In a boarding house you will have to pay from $31 to 168 a month. Houses rent from 19 to 160 dollars monthly, and a furnished house or flat can be obtained for a sum running from |31 up. As to food stuffs, milk sells for about 12 cents a litre, and butter from 90 cents to f 1.40 per kilogramme. A chicken will cost from 31 to 62 cents. Meat brings from about 12 to 28 cents per kilogramme. For a suit of clothes made to order, you will have to pay from 12 to 50 dollars. A straw hat can be bought for prices ranging from $1.25 to $3.75.* With some exceptions, are these prices so very different form those prevailing in our own country ? And how do wages compare with ours? A carpenter gets from two to two and a half dollars a day, and the * Brazil in 1910. J. C. Oakenfull, p. 252. 58 Lands of the Southern Cross same pay is given to a street-car conductor. A clerk makes from 30 to 60 dollars a month, and a bookkeeper or cashier from 60 to 80 dollars monthly, and so on. It will thus be seen that the average wages and prices are about the same as with us. Still, it appears that certain articles are much dearer than in our country. For instance, not only in Brazil, but elsewhere in South America, I have paid fifty cents for a pint of Apollinaris water. Then the individual experience of travellers may account for the reputation that Brazil has acquired. Thus I was told, that a cap which could be bought at New York for twenty-five cents, was purchased for |1.50 in Brazil. An interesting excursion from Kio de Janeiro, may be made to the aristocratic Petropolis, where the dip- lomatic corps resides. It is a short distance from the capital, and easy of access by railway. But, as our time is limited, and we must reach Buenos Aires in time to attend the opening of the International Con- gress of Americanists, the visit to Petropolis will have to be postponed until a more favorable occasion. Hence we go down to the wharf to meet the launch which will take us to the Verdi. Chapter V. SANTOS AND S. PAULO. Harbor of Santos — Yellow Fever Banished — Coffee — Miserlcor- dla Hospital — Schools — Churches — Courtyard of Carmelite Monastery — Tomb of Bonifacio d' Andrada — Diogo Feijoo- Proposition to Abolish Celibacy — Influence of Rome — S. Paulo Railroad — History of S. Paulo — General View of S. Paulo — An Educational Centre — College of S. Bento — Mackenzie College — Climate of S. Paulo — Products of Brazil. We did not leave Kio de Janeiro until the morning of Saturday, May 7, owing to a delay in discharging cargo, one of those unavoidable delays, so common in Southern ports. For this we were compensated by the advantage of steaming out of the harbor by daylight, so that we might once more admire its beauties. It was with a feeling of regret, that I turned my back upon Rio de Janeiro which to me had been like the quickly passing dream of some fairyland. The whole of Saturday was spent at sea. We reached the entrance to the harbor of Santos, long after dark, and cast anchor. About sunrise we were again moving, to proceed up the long harbor, between mountains, the termination of the range running westward toward S. Paulo, known as the Serra do Mar. By degrees, the flats upon which the straggling outposts of Santos stand come into view ; but, unfortunately, as in the bay of Rio de Janeiro, we had much fog to encounter. The city itself is built upon flat ground, beneath a tower- 59 60 Lcmds of the Southern Cross ing hill, the summit of which is crowned by the chapel of Montserrat. Santos, was, at one time, the terror of the mariner, and the pest hole of the Atlantic coast. Whole ships' crews were swept out of life by yellow fever; but, within the last few years, owing to extraordinary sanitary precautions, it has become quite healthy, and yellow fever has vanished. The land has been drained by a system of salt water canals, and though the smells at the dock are by no means agreeable, one need no longer fear to enter the harbor. The city of Santos, with a population of about 60,000, is situated in the province of S. Paulo. Being the out let for the principal coffee district, it is the largest coffee port in the world, and every flag is there seen. Unlike Bahia and Eio, Santos possesses a fine system of docks, along which ships may lie, to load, and unload by means of immense hydraulic derricks which are moved to and fro on wheels. Freight trains steam up along the docks, and the coffee bags are run on board on the heads and shoulders of the laborers. Brazilian coffee is cultivated along the east coast in the states of Espirito Santo, Minas Geraes, and as far north as Bahia, but, especially in the state of S. Paulo. Those that land at Santos may possibly visit the hospital "da Misericordia," but few will know that this institution, probably, gave its name to the town. It seems to have been built in 1537, by Braz Cubas, and dedicated to the Saints, while the town that grew up around it obtained the name of Porto de Santos, or simply Santos.^ Braz Cubas is regarded as the founder of the city, and a statue, erected to his honor in the principal square, perpetuates his memory. 1 Galanti. Compendio de Hlstoria do Brazil, Vol. 1, 126. Santos and S. Paulo 61 We were courteously treated by the authorities of the hospital which belongs to an old confraternity, and we had the opportunity of visiting it thoroughly, in com- pany of Dr. Warden of the Verdi. There is a large chapel attached to this institution. The attendants and nurses are laymen and women, and though, in many respects, it deserves praise, one of the children's wards was greatly lacking in clanliness, while the flies were a pest. There is certainly much room for improve- ment in this regard. Not far from the hospital, lies the prison, guarded at the entrance by soldiers. It may be visited with per- mission of the authorities. As our ship lay several days in the harbor, I had the satisfaction of visiting one public school that appeared rather primitive, and one Brazilian private elementary school, of which the same may be said. The teachers, like Brazilians generally, were very polite, and they afforded us every opportunity to form an idea of the state of primary education in Santos, of which I might have availed myself, had time permitted. We also found a private German school that we were allowed to inspect, and to the neat appearance of which I may testify. As it happened to be Sunday morning, the children were absent. German influence in south- ern Brazil is very strong, and all is done to keep up the old spirit of the Fatherland. There are two churches in Santos, besides the chapel of Montserrat on the hill. The Mother Church, or Igreja Matriz, is served by secular priests. It is the church of the "Rosario." Here we attended services on Sunday morning, as soon as we landed from the ship. To a Roman Catholic, every church of the Latin rite is familiar the world over, and he at once feels at 62 Lands of the Southern Cross home, whether in the United States, or in Brazil. I say, of the Latin rite, because there are a number of very ancient Oriental rites, such as the Greek, Maro- nite, Armenian, Chaldaean, and others, the observers of which, while subject to the spiritual jurisdiction of the Pope, differ greatly from the Latins in language, and in forms. There were many people in church, and, to judge by their exterior appearance, as devout as anywhere else in the world. Yet, I have reason to believe, that the practise of religion in Brazil leaves much to be desired. After Mass, I paid a visit to the sacristy. The old priest that had said Mass could speak neither French, English, nor Spanish, but the rather youthful parish priest spoke French fluently. He told me, that he had studied in the Pio-Latino college in Eome. The other church of Santos is served by the order of Carmelites of the Ancient Observance. It seems to have always belonged to the Carmelite Order; but the old Brazilian province of the Carmelites, undergoing the same influences as other orders, had fallen into a state of decadence. Hence it is that very few of the old members survive, and their places have been taken by Carmelites from Holland who now have charge of the church at Santos. The institution dates from the seventeenth century, if not from an earlier period. The most interesting object in this old, decayed, monastery is the small, but beautiful courtyard. In the centre, lies buried Bonifacio d'Andrada, the patri- arch of Brazilian independence, who headed the revo- lution that put Don Pedro I on the throne. The tomb with its recumbent ef^gj, decorated with the masonic insignia, creates a fine effect. Freemasonry was, at one time, very powerful in Brazil, and if rumor is cor- LOADING COFFEE AT SANTOS Santos and S. Paulo 63 rect, it was not only countenanced by some of the clergy, but clergymen entered its ranks. The fact is, that Bonifacio is buried in a monastery, in the shadow of a church, with masonic insignia. During a portion of the imperial regime, it is quite evident, that the influence of the central authority at Eome had waned. One prominent priest, Diego Feijoo, who, for a time, was regent of the kingdom, after the abdication of Don Pedro I, believing that the marriage contract was an affair of the state, and not of the church, went so far as to propose the abolition of ecclesiastical celibacy in Brazil ; but the law was not enacted by the legisla- tive powers. There can be no doubt, that, before the separation of church and state, the influence of the government was, on the whole, unfavorable to the church, greatly hampering its freedom of action. This will, to some extent, explain the relaxation of morals, while it is quite sure, that the general reform began under the impetus given by Kome. As there is comparatively little to detain us in San- tos, and our ship lies here a couple of days, we shall run up to the far more interesting city of S. Paulo. To go from Santos to S. Paulo, you must take the picturesque S. Paulo railroad. From S. Paulo, you can go by rail to Rio de Janeiro. In fact, in a few years, railway travel will be possible from Rio to any part of the country, and to the neighboring republics of Uruguay, Paraguay, Chile and Bolivia. It has been proposed to build a bridge across the river Plate, and if this is effected, we will be able to proceed by rail from Rio de Janeiro to Buenos Aires.^ The S. Paulo railway, a marvel of engineering skill, is operated by an English company under concession 2BrazU in 1910. J. C. Oakenfull. 64 Lands of the Southern Cross of the state, to which it will revert after some years . It pays very large dividends. The cars are small, but very neat, and the trains carry first and second-class passengers. The railway cars throughout South Amer- ica have adopted the American, and not the old Euro- pean system, of coupes; in fact many of them are exactly like our cars at home. The train mounts the Serra do Mar from Santos to Alto da Serra, where the descent toward S. Paulo begins. For a distance of several miles it is pulled up the mountain by cable. The scenery from Santos to Alto da Serra baffles description. You feast your eyes upon it, to be interrupted ever and anon, as you plunge into a dark tunnel. Then you cross long bridges over dizzy ravines. Looking out of the window, your vision plunges into the depths, frequently obstructed by dense clouds that float in space far below you. A wealth of tropical vegetation surrounds you, rising with the mountains above, or sinking with the valleys beneath. Several times the train halts on its way, and you have an opportunity to admire the beautiful stations that the company has built. We left Santos at 4.30 p. m., and, about half past six, we were at S. Paulo. During the latter part of the journey we were surrounded by darkness, for in that southern latitude, the days were growing shorter. The railway station at S. Paulo is spacious and beautiful, comparing well with the prominent depots of our country, and surpassing a very large number of them. It is teeming with life and activity, and there is abundant evidence of a very active traffic. As the hour is advanced, we take a carriage, and drive to the monastery of S. Bento, where our friend the abbot, who had preceded us by rail from Eio, will Santos and S. Paulo ' 65 extend to us a hearty welcome. After supper, and a short conversation, we retire to our comfortable apart- ments, and will employ our leisure moments with some general reflections on S. Paulo. The early history of this city is intimately bound up with that of the Jesuits in Brazil. These Fathers had, for some time, been active in the country, when, in 1554, the celebrated Father de Nobrega founded a college on the plains of Piratinanga. The first Mass was celebrated in it on the festival of the Conversion of S. Paul in the same year. From this circumstance the college took the name of St. Paul, and the city that grew up around it is the present S. Paulo.^ Father Jos6 de Anchieta, so well known in the history of the Society, was one of the first professors in the college. To the seventeenth century belong the famous perse- cution and expulsion of the Jesuits by the Paulistas, into an account of which the nature and the limits of this book do not permit us to enter. The history ol this time may be read in that of the Society, or in that of Brazil. Those that understand Portuguese will find it treated by the Jesuit author Galanti in the second volume of his Compendio de Historia do Brazil. Since the days when S. Paulo beheld the light in the vicinity of the Jesuit college, it has grown to be one of the first and finest cities of Brazil, with a population of 300,000. Beautifully situated upon an undulating plain, it is made up of elevations and depressions. The houses are generally low, a very large proportion being only of one story, and very few containing more than two. Many of the streets, by the appearance of the houpes, cause us to imagine what the old cities of Italy and Greece must have been like. Even in the fine « Galanti. Hist, do Brazil. I , 176. 66 Lands of the Southern Cross residential suburbs, along the Avenida, this lowness of the houses does not fail to impress the stranger. S. Paulo is the educational centre of Brazil. At- tached to the old monastery of S. Ben to, the Benedic- tines conduct a flourishing college which may well hold up its head among the colleges of the world. The best families send their children to it. The professors are Benedictine monks, secular ecclesiastics, and laymen. One of the seculars. Father Caton, is an American. The cabinet of physics and natural sciences is a credit to the institution. Besides the gymnasium, or college proper, there is, also, a faculty of philosophy and letters in which the higher studies are persued, on the plan of a university. This old abbey has, also, been raised up from its former degraded condition by the present Benedictine monks, and it is prospering wonderfully under the care of the abbot, Dom Miguel Kruse. The last abbot of the old regime lies buried in the cloister. The provincial seminary of the diocese contained only about thirty students, for vocations to the Priest- hood in Brazil, especially among the better classes, are few, though the bishops appear to be making great efforts to raise the standard of the clergy. The Spanish Fathers of the Immaculate Heart of Mary, a congrega tion founded by the saintly Clavel, Archbishop of San- tiago de Cuba, conduct a house to which priests ma> repair, to make a retreat, and perform the spiritual exercises. The Salesian Fathers, founded in Italy by the cele- brated Don Bosco, are to be found all over South America. Their work is principally for poor boys, and as such a vocation meets a universal requirement, they will continue to succeed, as long as they adhere to it. They possess a splendid industrial college in S. Paulo. Santos and S. Paulo 67 Among the schools for young ladies, that of the Ladies of Sion deserves especial mention. Another well-known educational institution in S. Paulo is the Mackenzie, also called the American, college. It was founded in 1870, by Kev. George W. Chamberlain, as an adjunct to the Presbyterian mis- sion, later becoming independent under a charter from the state of New York, and endowed by funds given in memory of John T. Mackenzie of that city.* I was informed, that in this and other colleges in charge of Protestants, religion is no longer taught, owing to the objection of the Brazilian parents. Though instruc- tion is chiefly given in Portuguese, the college is con- ducted on American models. Dr. Horace Lane is in charge. As our time is limited, and we must return to Santos, having only one day, Monday, to spend in S. Paulo, we bid farewell to our Benedictine hosts. The abbot will drive me to the station, but I might, also, have taken an electric car, for the trolley system in S. Paulo is» perfect. As in Kio de Janeiro, the cars are operated by Canadian and American capital, but the system is entirely American. Before leaving S. Paulo, I should mention something of its climate. Although outside of the tropics, the vegetation here is quite tropical, but the heat is moder- ated by the altitude of 2,000 feet, so that the climate ts very agreeable. In the Fall of the year, in Spring, and of course, in Winter, the mornings and evenings may be quite cool, and the nights even cold, though there is never frost. At the station, I found some passengers of the Verdi, and together we returned to Santos. The journey was performed without incident save one, that was rather *The South Americans. Albert Hale, p. 42. 68 Lands of the Southern Cross disturbing. The rumor reached us, and passed through the car, that New York had been destroyed by an earth- quake. Of course this interfered with our tranquility, though it did not appear probable. We afterwards discovered, that the news of the destruction of Cartago in Costa Eica had been cabled from New York. Some one misunderstood the message, and gave rise to the false report. We were fortunate in having a wireless apparatus on board. It was thereby that we found an explanation of the fact that, before we left Kio, the flags were at half mast. We then learned of the death of King Edward VII. Arriving on board the Verdi, was like reaching home ; but, owing to another delay, we did not leave port until the following day. At Santos we took on a load of bananas for Monte- video and Buenos Aires. This reminds me that a word on the products of Brazil would not be out of place here. The principal products of this vast country are rubber, wood, and coffee, but there are many more of considerable importance. Beginning with the immense region of Amazon as, we find that, north of the great river, and directly south of the Guianas which are separated from Brazil by the Tumac Humac mountains, and by an impenetrable forest, the products are vanilla and sarsaparilla. The great valley of the Amazon, north of the river, especially westward toward Colum- bia, has been hardly touched. As we cross the river, we shall again find vanilla, with cocoa, while further to the east, in the state of Para, we meet with the Brazil nut from whence the country derives its name, and from which an oil is extracted. The great rubber country lies southwest of the Amazon, on the confines of Peru and Bolivia, or south and southwest of Manaos, Santos and S. Paulo 69 through which port the rubber is especially exported. East of the rubber district the great forests supply wood for building purposes. Directly south of these, in the state of Matto Grosso, lies a mineral district, where useful clays, porphyry, gold, iron, copper, lead and diamonds are found. Cotton is cultivated along the coast from Maranhao down to Bahia. Tobacco runs in a southwesterly direction from Maranhao through Bahia, to the headwaters of the Parana river, and coffee along the coast from Bahia to S. Paulo. The great mat6 region extends southward from the upper Parana to Uruguay. The mat6 is a plant which affords a much highly prized beverage to Brazil, Uru« guay, Paraguay, Argentina, and Chile. It is to them what tea is to the European. Sugar is produced in various places along the coast, especially in Pernam- buco, Rio de Janeiro and S. Paulo, while cocoa planta- tions also exist in Bahia. Cereals grow especially in the southern states, from Parana to Rio Grande do Sul. Different kinds of wood are scattered over the country. Gold and diamonds are, also, found, in various regions, but the latter principally in the state of Minas Geraes. The raising of cattle belongs to the eastern states, from Ceara southward, but it is principally found in Rio Grande do Sul, on the borders of Uruguay. There are minor products to which I make no allusion, but from what I have said, the variety of resources will allow us to form an idea of the immense wealth of Brazil. These vast regions are peopled first by the aborigi- nies of various tribes who live in the river basins, and in the forests from Guiana to Paraguay, then by the descendents of the original Portuguese, and, finally, by immigrants and their offspring. The oldest immi- grants are German and Swiss who came to Bahia and 70 Lands of the Southern Cross Eio de Janeiro as early as 1818. Germans, Italians, and others have at various times emigrated to Brazil in considerable numbers, helping to swell the population, and by their labor increasing the wealth of the country. We must now bid farewell to Brazil, with its moun- tains, and valleys, its forests, rivers and swamps, and, with no little regret, to its courteous people, to proceed on our journey to the lands further south. Chapter VI. MONTEVIDEO— LANDING IN BUENOS AIKES. Steaming Down the Coast — Geography — Sources of Uruguayan Wealth — History — Harbor of Montevideo — Going Ashore — The Postoffice — Streets of the City — The Cathedral — Bishop Soler — The Church in Uruguay — Pocitos. the Fashionable Resort — Steaming Across the La Plata — Buenos Aires — The Docks — The Custom House. It took us a long time to get away from the Santos docks, as our anchor had become entangled with that of a French liner, and it was with no little difficulty, that we finally succeeded in getting clear. The weather, as we left Santos, on May 10th, was cool and rainy, a reminder that we were leaving the tropics, and entering the south temperate zone. On the 11th and 12th, we steamed southward along the Brazilian coast, but out of sight of land. Owing to the heavy swells, such as are frequently encountered here, the Verdi pitched much, to the great discomfort of passengers inclined to be seasick. On the 13th, we were nearer to the coast, the sea became delightfully smooth, and flocks of birds began to hover around the ship, growing more numerous as we approached the river Plate. I am no naturalist, and though I frequently heard the names of the birds, I will not make an attempt to point out the innumerable varieties of those we saw both on the east, and the west coast of South America. The greater number on this particular day, very much resembled wild ducks. Some of our men wasted much 71 72 Lands of the Southern Cross ammunition in a fruitless, and wanton attempt to hit some of them. We also noticed here and there, a seal or two, swimming some distance from the ship. If you will look at the map of South America, you will observe, that three large rivers, flowing southward through Brazil, unite to form what is known as the Rio de la Plata, or River Plate. These are the Uruguay, the Paraguay, and the Parana. The first, forming an immense curve, becomes the dividing line between Argentina on the one side, and Brazil and Uruguay on the other. It flows directly to the sea. The Parana, after drawing its waters from numerous tributaries in Minas Geraes and S. Paulo, unites with the Paraguay between Argentina and Paraguay, to continue its jour- ney southward, and meet the Uruguay, thus forming the River Plate, upon the northern bank of which, some distance from the ocean, Montevideo lies. The^ city is the capital of Uruguay, the smallest republic of South America, also known as the Banda Oriental, situated below the thirty-fifth parallel of southern lat- itude, with about 1,000,000 inhabitants. The main wealth of the country should consist, it would seem, in agriculture, as the soil is fertile, and it may be cultivated all the year round, but cattle raising has hitherto been the principal industry of Uruguay. The land is owned by the native born, and, after them, by Italians, Spaniards, Brazilians, French, and Eng- lish. It is generally low, but undulating, with hills, dignified by the name of mountains. The La plata was discovered in 1516, yet the city of Montevideo was not founded until 1731, a century and a half after Buenos Aires, the seat of the government. Uruguay, coerced by Buenos Aires, declared its inde- pendence from Spain in 1814, but remained subject to Montevideo — Landing in Buenos Aires 73 Buenos Aires, until 1821, when Brazil captured her, holding her until 1825. Finally, in 1828, after a strug- gle of three years, she obtained her independence. Since then, her history has been one of repeated revo- lutions. Beginning with 1860, the two parties of Colo- rados, or Liberals, and Blancos, or Conservatives, have divided the country, fighting, it would seem, for per- sonal preference, rather than for principle. When I landed in Uruguay, peace reigned, yet no one seemed to know how long it would last. As you approach the harbor, one solitary, pyramid shaped hill is seen. All the rest is flat. It is this hill which must have given its name to the city. ''Montem video/' "I see a mountain," such may have been the exclamation in Latin of the first discoverers. We cast anchor early in the morning of Saturday, May 14th, and the usual bustle began. The ship lay a long distance from the shore, although there are docks, at which vessels may tie up, and, in fact, several war- ships were then lying at them. After breakfast, we took passage on a steam launch, paying one dollar for the return trip. Uruguay is the only country in South America where the dollar is worth more than ours, it being equivalent to about $1.02. It circulates in paper and in silver. The other coins are 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1 cent pieces. As you step on the spacious and solid wharf, you will find electric cars ready to take you to any part of the city. Here, as in other portions of South America, you will observe very large and conspicuous numbers on the cars. The same number follows the same route. The system is easily learned, and it greatly facilitates travelling. The abundance of cars will, with a little observation, and some inquiries, render the expense of 74 Lands of the Southern Cross a carriage unnecessary in Montevideo. Your questions will be politely answered, for Uruguayans have a spec- ial reputation for politeness. Let us proceed first to the post office, as we wish to send home some postal cards by the next steamer leav- ing for the north. Picture postal cards may be ob- tained in all important cities of South America. You may buy them in Montevideo in a little store, opposite the postoffice, which is easily found, as it is not far from the landing, and any one will show it to you. The postoffik^e in Montevideo is remarkable for the conveniences it offers, and for the system that prevails in it. Go to one of the desks, touch an electric button, and an attendant will bring you paper and envelopes free of charge. I have not found this anywhere but in Montevideo. One of the employees, observing that I was a stranger, addressed me in English, and kindly volunteered to show me the building, besides conduct- ing me to the store where postal cards were for sale. Leaving the postoffice,we begin our wandering through the streets, to form a general idea of the city, and to gather, here and there, scraps of information. The popu- lation of the capital of Uruguay amounts to about 300,- 000 of which a considerable portion is Italian. Gener- ally quite modern in appearance, it contains a number of houses in the Spanish style with barred windows. Occasionally you catch a glimpse of the characteristic patio or courtyard, that common feature of the houses in Southern Spain and Spanish America. Although lying in the temperate zone, Uruguay possesses a pleas- ing semi-tropical vegetation, and, notably, plants of the palmetto variety. As you pass from street to street, you will find one, by its name, quite familiar to Ameri- cans, for Montevideo has, like so many of our own Montevideo — Landing in Buenos Aires 75 cities, its Calle WasMngton, or Washington street. The thoroughfares are filled with people, bent on their sev- eral avocations, and you will meet the beautiful Uru- guayan ladies, in groups or alone; for, during the day, the old-time duena is not always in evidence. This will, perhaps, impress you, coming as you do from tropical Brazil w^here ladies live so much indoors, and where they are seldom or never seen, until the late afternoon. Should your walk take you through the calle Baca- cay, you will, probably, see the national museum, and if you happen to be of a literary turn of mind, you may, also, visit the National Library. Uruguay figures to a considerable extent in the literary history of Spanish America, with historians, like Magarinos Cervantes, and Demaria, and poets, like Adolf o Berro. One of the prominent literary men of the day is Dr. Sorrilla San Martin, orator, historian, and, of course, poet. A visit to the Lihreria Barreirro will introduce you further to the reading public of Montevideo. We now proceed to the Plaza de la Constituciou where, should you wish to prolong your stay in Monte- video, you will find accommodations at the Grand Hotel. There is, however, one building that will surely draw your attention, namely the Cathedral of the Im- maculate Conception and of Saints Philip and James. Built, like most Latin American churches, in the style of the Kennaissance, it was consecrated in 1804, becom- ing the cathedral in 1878. The faqade is adorned with Corinthian pilasters. The vast and sombre interior, impressive by its solemnity, contains the tombs of three bishops. One of these holds all that is mortal of him whom I should so much have desired to know, the dis- tinguished and learned Dr. Mariano Soler, first arch 76 Lands of the Southern Cross bishop of Montevideo. A fellow member of the In- ternational Congress of Americanists, I had never had the pleasure of meeting him at its sessions, and, before the Americanists came to his own southern hemisphere, he had passed away. All that was left for me, was to stand beside his tomb. Montevideo was not raised to the rank of a metro- politan see until 1897. Although, nominally, several episcopal sees have been created in Uruguay, there is de facto only one bishop in the Republic, as, up to the time of my visit, none had been appointed to the other dioceses. The city possesses a number of churches, but only four have the rank of a parish church. These are the Cathedral, San Francisco, La Aguada, and El Cor- don. Among the many churches, that of El Cristo Pacientisimo which you will observe at a short distance on leaving the wharf, is worth a visit. The Jesuit Fathers have charge of the Seminary, but here, as in many other countries of South America, there are few vocations to the priesthood. This scarcity of native ecclesiastics has rendered it necessary to accept the services of those from abroad, and hence it is, that so many foreign priests, French, German, Ital- ian, and Spanish, are scattered throughout South America. In Uruguay we find, besides the Jesuits, the Capuchins, the Salesians of Don Bosco, the Oblates of St. Francis de Sales, the Franciscans, the Fathers of the Sacred Heart of Bayonne, the Mercedarians, the Pallottini, and German R«demptorists. Most of the members of these religious orders are foreigners, and they are always on the qui vive, not knowing at what hour an edict of banishment may be passed against them. In the meantime, they are working hard in the ministry. As a rule, the clergy of Uruguay is very CATHEDRAL, MONTEVIDEO Montevideo — Landing in Buenos Aires 71 gocMi, though, to some extent, characterized by that inactivity and slowness, found in so many Latin coun- tries. Educational work for boys is conducted in the colleges of the Jesuit Fathers, and of the Brothers of the Holy Family. The Catholic Church is still recognized officially, but only the bishops and the seminary obtain a subvention from the government. In spite of the union of church and state, there seems to be an undercurrent of hostil- ity to the Church which may break out at any moment. The public schools are neutral, and the teaching of religion is excluded, while the state university is said to be atheistic in its tendencies. Keligion has no place even in the foundling asylum. Although there are Catholic organs, like El Bien, and prominent Catholic laymen, like Dr. Sorrilla San Martin, most newspapers are hos- tile to the Church. It is no wonder, that, with the elimination of religious prinicples, morality should be discounted. While influences for good are crushed to earth, French literature and the French theatre are permitted to corrupt the morals of the people, and they say, that licensed prostitution is widespread. Before leaving Montevideo, we take an electric car to Pocitos, a beautiful suburb on the sea, where, in the season, one may enjoy a fine salt water bath. There are splendid modern residences here, but, at this time, they are closed, as well as the hotels; for Winter is approaching. Pocitos is a watering place, of easy access, where, in Summer, the fashion and culture of Montevideo are seen at their best. Returning to the wharf, we find a large number of sailors of the Uruguayan navy, which is still in its infancy, performing their evolutions. As our launch was not ready, we made a visit to a steamer at the dock, 78 Lands of the Southern Cross belonging to one of the two lines, plying between Mon- tevideo and Buenos Aires. The Mahanovich line is the best. Its steamers run every night, carrying passen- genrs to Buenos Aires for six dollars, which includes the stateroom, dinner with wine, and coffee in the morning. We had now entered upon the last stage of our jour- ney, for, on the morrow, we were to bid farewell to tho Verdi. We weighed anchor at 5 p. m., to steam diago- nally across the La Plata. Nothing is henceforth to be seen, but passing ships, and two long lines of lighted buoys that mark the channel. The morning found us off Buenos Aires. Several ships were anchored out in the stream, but the harbor, entirely artificial, is within a solid wall of masonry. As we enter, the long line of vessels at the docks stretches before us, and we take our place among them, near a large Italian steamer, that left Montevideo before us. Not very many years ago, ships were obliged to anchor out in the stream ; today all that can find room, and are not, like some men-o'-war, of too deep a draught, may come up to the docks. There are two entrances to the harbor proper, one on the north, oppo- site the Juncal and Santa Fe streets, and the other on the south, which is properly the mouth of the Kiaehuelo Elver, that forms the southern boundary of the city. The northern channel leads to a wide basin, the Darsena isforte, whence ships turn to the left to enter the docks which are separated from the stream by a long plat- form, in the figure of an irregular triangle. The har- bor, with its wharves, is divided into four sections, from which you enter at an angle, into the Darsena Sud, and thence into the Ante Puerto, which firsi receives the Kiaehuelo as it flows into the La Plata, Montevideo — Landing in Biienos Aires 79 through the southern canal. The docks will be con tinned to the north, and, also, southward, across the Kiachuelo, along the district known as Avellaneda. Shortly after docking, when the doctor's visit was completed, I took my baggage ashore. The whole of it consisted of a bag, and a dress suit case, into which 1 had managed to squeeze my entire travelling outfit. I had every reason to congratulate myself, that I had no trunk, for the transportation of trunks is one of the great hindrances to travel, adding, also, materially to the expense. When travelling abroad, take as little baggage as you can. One of the worries a traveller experiences, on land- ing at any port is the passing of the custom house. In this regard, I was fortunate, for I merely exhibited my document from the Department of State, designating me as a delegate to the International Congress of Amer- icanists, and I was allowed to pass. I afterwards learned, that the Argentine government had issued orders that the baggage of foreign delegates was not to be examined. In fact, mine was not disturbed once, until I reached New York. I had merely to mention the fact, that I had been a delegate of the United States in Argentina, and I was treated everywhere with cour- tesy, in the West Indies, as well as in South America Chapter VII. ARGENTINA. Tbe International Congress of Americanists — Geography of Argentina — Climate — History — Aborigines — Descendants of Spaniards — Immigrants — Industrial Interests — Banks — Dealings with South Americans — Resources — Manufacto- ries — Railroads — Government — Army and Navy. Here I am then in Argentina : the goal of my jour- ney is reached. For some time, I had wished to form a personal acquaintance with South America, prin- cipally in the interest of my work on the History of Spanish-American Literature.^ Weeks of hesitation and uncertainty were spent, but my decision was taken, when the government designated me a dele- gate to the International Congress of Americanists, the seventeenth session of which was to be held at Buenos Aires, in May, and in Mexico in September. The International Congress of Americanists is com- posed of scholars or other persons, more or less inter- ested, from all parts of the world who meet in differ- ent places, every two years, to discuss scientific and historical matters, appertaining to the New World, and its inhabitants. A great deal of material is thus gathered which would, otherwise, be lost, and the Reports of these Congresses contain a veritable mine of information. The first Congress was held at Nancy in 1875, with others following at Luxemburg, Brusselis, Madrid, i.See Bulletin of the International Bureau of American Re- publics, May and September, 1910. 80 PLAZA HOTEL^ BUENOS AIRES Argentina 81 Copenhagen, Turin, Berlin, Paris, Huelva, and Stock- holm. The one that was first convened on this side of the Atlantic, met at Mexico in 1895. Since then, the custom has been established of alternating between the Old and the New World. In accordance with this custom, the Congresses that followed were held at Paris, New York, Stuttgart, Quebec and Vienna. At that of Vienna, both Mexico and Argentina claimed the privilege of the next congress, and, as both these countries were to celebrate the centennial anniversary of their independence, it was decided that the seventeenth congress in 1910, should be held in two sessions, the one in Buenos Aires, and the other in Mexico. Members are either delegates of governments, univer- sities, or learned societies, or they assist in their indi- vidual capacity. The author of this work has been a member of the congresses of Huelva, Mexico, New York, Stuttgart, Quebec, and Buenos Aires-Mexico. At Stuttgart, he represented the United States, and the Catholic University of America, and, at the Seven- teenth International Congress, he was a delegate of the United States, the Smithsonian Institution, and the Catholic University. I will now beg you to accompany me to the Hotel Plaza, where I have taken up my abode for the first couple of days. In a quiet little nook, away from the noises of the great city, we shall, in general outlines, discuss Argentina. To facilitate our study, let us spread the map of the Argentine Kepublic before us. You will notice, that a small portion of the country is situated north of the tropic of Capricorn, and the remainder in the temperate zone. The northern fron- tiers lie a little south of the twentieth degree of south- 82 Lands of the Southern Cross ern latitude, while the extreme southern limit stretches far below the fiftieth parallel. Argentina, pear-shaped as it is, occupies almost the entire width of the conti- nent from the Atlantic to the Andes, narrowing south- ward, until it dies away into the ocean at the eastern point of Tierra del Fuego. It is bounded by Bolivia and Paraguay on the north, by Paraguay, Brazil, Uruguay, and the Atlantic ocean on the east, by the straits of Magellan and the ocean on the south, and by Chile on the west. One-third the size of the United States, it has an area of 1,135,480 square miles. From the heights of the Andes, through which the boundary line runs, the land slopes down toward the sea. The only mountains are in the west, along the eastern slope of the Andes; but the rest of the country is a fertile plain, with about 500,000,000 of acres capable of culti- vation, the whole being watered by numerous streams, especially in the north and south. The transportation of merchandise to the sea is facilitated by railroads, rivers, and wagon roads. The climate, except in the extreme south, is mild, though extremely variable, severe frost and snow being practically unknown in the best portions of the country. Tremendous storms, with fierce thunder and lightning, known as pamperos^ occasionally come sweeping down to the river from the pampas, threatening lives and property, and menac- ing ships with destruction. They are to Argentina what hurricanes are to the West Indies, and cyclones to us. The La Plata region was discovered in 1516 by Juan Diaz de Solis who never returned, as he was mur- dered by the Ouarani Indians in March of the same year. These terrible aborigines, said to have been cannibals, inhabited the region of the Parand and Argentina 83 Paraguay, as far north as the river Maranon, and westward to the confines of Peru.^ It was Don Pedro de Mendoza who began the coloni- zation of the country on the Kio de Solis, or La Plata, landing, in 1535, on the spot where Buenos Aires now stands. Other expeditions, entering by the La Plata, extended the dominion of Spain along this river, as well as the Parang, and the Paraguay, while the western portions of the country were colonized from Peru and Chile. The whole remained for a long time subject to the viceroyalty of Peru. Although the region known as Buenos Aires was occupied and gov- erned since Mendoza's time, and several cities now belonging to the Kepublic had been founded, the foun- dations of the present City of Buenos Aires were not laid, until 1580, when Juan de Garay began it under the name of "La Trinidad," a name now completely forgotten, that of the region and harbor having taken its place.^ As the La Plata regions offered little induce- ment to adventurers, in the shape of gold and silver, objects so fiercely coveted by those that were com- ing to America, the progress of the country was ex- tremely slow, when compared to other Spanish colo- nies. From the end of the sixteenth century, until their expulsion in 1767, the influence of the paternal domination which the Jesuits had established in Para- guay was felt in a large portion of the countries bor- dering on the La Plata, and as far west as the Andes. Shortly after the expulsion of the Jesuits, the separate 2 Estudios Historlcos, P. Federico Vogt, S. V. D., Buenos Aires, 1903, p. 12. 3 El Escudo de Armas de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires. B. Aires, 1910. The Colonial archives of the Museo Mitre at Buenos Aires contain a splendid series of documents, extend- ing from 1514 to 1810. 84 Lands of the Southern Gross viceroy alty of the Rio de la Plata was established, and the colony entered upon a new era. Buenos Aires became the residence of the viceroy. In 1806, the country was attacked by the English, but the combined colonial and Spanish forces repelled the invasion. In 1810, the spirit of revolution was abroad. Buenos Aires caught the fire, and on May 25 of that year, she declared her independence. Like other South American countries, Argentina has, since then, passed through countless vicissitudes. Discord prevailed generally, until 1825, when war broke out with Brazil, as each nation claimed Uruguay. After the war, which lasted a few years, jealousy between the provinces and Buenos Aires appeared anew, resulting in the supreme power of the cowboy^ or Gaucho, Rosas, who became dictator in 1835, hold- ing the reins of government with tyrannical power, until 1852, when he was driven out, to make place for a continued series of disturbances, until 1862, when peace was restored in the triumph of Buenos Aires. Then followed the war against the Paraguayan dic- tator Lopez that decimated Paraguay, nearly destroyed its male population, and exhausted Argentina as well. Since then, Argentina has advanced with gigantic strides on the road to prosperity, owing to the great influx of foreign capital, and to the increase of immi- gration which she has encouraged. From 1868 to 1874, about 250,000 immigrants entered the country, and, from 1880 to 1892, their number was between seven and eight hundred thousand,* while the tide has gone on increasing, until today Argentina has a popu- lation of something like seven millions. This popula- tion consists of the aborigines in the northern dis- * The South Americans. Albert Hale, p. 107, 108. Argentina 85 tricts and in the far south, of the descendants of the early Spanish colonizers, and of immigrants, and their descendants. The aborigines, when the Spaniards first arrived, were the Kerandis, Charruas, Tupis, Agaces, Guaya- curus, Guaranis, and Payaguas on the La Plata, and the Humahuacas, Calchakis, Lules and Juris in Tucu- man which, at that time, comprised the whole north- western portion of what is now Argentina. The descen- dants of these groups, either fullbloods, or halfbreeds, still dwell in the northern part of the Republic, hav- ing become, more or less, civilized in the course of centuries, although the savage condition of some con- tinues. About thirty years ago, they were subdued by General Roca. Descendants of Indians in Argen- tina have, before the law, the same rights as others; they are citizens. The provinces and territories in which they are most numerous are Chaco, Tucuman, Catamarca, La Rioja, San Luis, Mendoza, Salta and Juguy, besides those between the Parand and the Uruguay, namely Misiones, Corrientes, and Entre Rios, the scene of the labors of the early Jesuits. The Patagonian Indians in the south are decreasing in numbers, smallpox having been one of their deadly enemies, while the original Fuegians still live in the extreme south of the Republic. The descendants of the old Spaniards are the core of the country, upon which they have impressed their language that will never be superseded. They form a society apart, as the "bluebloods" of Argentina, and, socially, mingle little with the newcomers. A large proportion have made fortunes through their own, or their ancestors' pastoral operations. Of course there is a poorer class, and some very poor, scattered 86 Lands of the Southern Cross through the country; but they are generally of pure Spanish descent, with perhaps, in some instances, a mixture of Indian blood. Among the immigrants, we have to distinguish the old colonies, principally English, Scotch, and Irish. Many of these have amassed large fortunes in agricul- ture, and stock raising. Their descendants, born in the province of Buenos Aires, are known as Portenos, from Puerto, the harbor. In the southern part of the state, a number of old Scotch and English families still live. A considerable proportion of land owners in the province of Buenos Aires are of Irish descent, some being very wealthy. The Irish in general have not only preserved the English language, but they have kept it with a well marked brogue. At one time, especially in the country, their children could hardly speak Spanish. Today, however, the language of the land is prevailing more and more, especially with the younger generation. The Irish colony is very clan- nish, having kept together most remarkably in the land of exile. The newcomers are, in the vast majority, Italians, and Spaniards. The others are Germans, French, Poles, Russian Jews, Syrians, and people of every other nationality. There is a Polish colony in Mis- iones and a part of Corrientes, devoted to agriculture, and a large Jewish colony in Entre Rios. Very few negroes are seen in Buenos Aires; and their number seems to be diminishing in the whole land. There is no distinct Argentine type, as the popula- tion, very mixed, is in a state of transition. The Italian and Spanish immigrants form the labor- ing population, the Gallegos, from Galicia in Spain, furnishing a considerable quota of domestics. The Argentina 87 great industrial interests, requiring much capital, are principally in the hands of the French, English and Germans, the last being prominent in commerce. Financial affairs and banking are, to a great extent, managed by English and Germans, the London and Brazilian Bank being quite prominent. However, the Bank of the Argentine Nation, ^^ Banco de la Nacion Argentina/^ is a very large institution about eighteen years old, and there are other Argentine banks, such as the Municipal, and ^^El Hogar Argentino/' Among foreign institutions, are the Bank of Italy and Rio do La Plata, the Spanish Bank of Rio de La Plata, and the Transatlantic German Bank. The Bank of the Argentine Nation has three branches in the city, besides the main institution, namely at Boca, Flores, and Bel gran o, and 118 branches throughout the Repub- lic. The combined capital of these provincial banks amounted, at the end of 1909, to |98,000,000. A good American bank in South America appears to be a desideratum. In fact, American influence in Argentina is still in its infancy, though trade between the two countries has been greatly developed. It will surely increase, if we convince the people of South America, that we are sincere and honest, and that we consider them our equals in civilization. The first thing we have to do is to teach them to trust us. We must of necessity lay aside the idea that "any old thing is good enough for South America." In our dealings with them it is essential, that we should adhere strictly to our contract, manufacturing their goods for them, according to their needs and wishes, and not in accordance with our own views. Besides, if our manufacturers and merchants wish to increase their South American trade, they will have to work 88 Lands of the Southern Cross on the credit system, as South Americans have been accustomed to long credit, on the part of the English and Germans who have understood them better than we do. The resources of the country, though less varied than those of Brazil, are of the greatest importance for the world at large, consisting, as they do, princi- pally of foodstuffs, for Argentina is fast becoming a bread and meat market of the world. It is pre- eminently an agricultural and pastoral country, with comparatively few manufactures. Argentina is a country of cereals, and wheat forms its greatest crop; hence the cultivation of this article is on the increase. A very important agricultural product is flax, though, like tobacco, it has a tendency to exhaust the soil. However, as it has been found to be more profitable than wheat, great attention is paid to its cultivation. In 1909, about 150 tons of flax were exported from Argentina to the United States. In the province of Mendoza, the cultivation of the grape, and the manufacture of wine have increased to such an extent, since 1885, that Argentina now heads the list of the wine producing countries of America, Chile being second, and the United States third. The annual product of Argentina is 3,171,000 hectolitres, against 1,600,000 of the United States. These wines are of numerous varieties, such as the native, the French, from an imported grape, the white wines, known as Semilon and Sauvignon, and wines resembling the Italian Barbera, as well as Marsala, Sherry, Port, and even Champagne. The one great drawback to the wine culture of Mendoza is the high freight charged for transit across the pampas. While from Europe to Buenos Aires twelve dollars silver is Argentina 89 paid, freight from Mendoza to the capital costs thirty- six dollars per ton.^ The sugar industry flourishes in the province of Tucuman, in the northern part of the country, between the twenty-seventh and twenty-eighth parallels of lati- tude south. Although Tucuman is the smallest of the Argentine provinces, it is in proportion, perhaps, the richest. As early as the 17th century, the Jesuits, from their college of Lules, had begun the cultivation of sugar cane, but the present condition of this branch of agriculture owes its initiation in 1821, to a distin- guished patriot. Bishop Jose Eusebio Colombres, who became Bishop of Salta in 1858, and died the following year at Tucuman. He was one of the fifteen priests who had signed the act of independence on July 9, 1816. In 1896, Argentina produced 163,000 tons of sugar, of which 141,000 came from Tucuman. This industry is becoming one of the most important, and, probably, before long, the supply will much exceed the figure of 200,000 tons, suflScient to meet the demands of the Argentine market for home consumption. Another tropical, or semi-tropical, product of Argen- tina is cotton, plantations of which exist in Chaco in the northeastern section of the country. Cattle raising divides with agriculture the great source of Argentine wealth. Immense cattle ranches, or estancias, are scattered over the land, especially on the pampas between Buenos Aires, and the province of Mendoza on the confines of Chile. These estancias are measured, not by acres, but by square miles, and you may travel for quite a distance, with nothing in 8 For a detailed account of the wine and sugar industry of Argentina, see the Buenos Aires Magazine Caras y Caretat, May, 1910. 90 Lands of the Southern Cross sight but the limitless plain, and herds of cattle, until you catch a glimpse of the residence of the estanciero in the distance. The raising of cattle created the wealth of the early Argentinians, as well as of foreign- ers who had settled in the country, making millionaires of not a few who are now living in splendor either in their country homes, or in their palatial residences in Buenos Aires. Cattle raising also created the gaucho, the cowboy of the pampas, who has figured to some extent in South American literature. To cattle raising must, also, be added that of sheep. Immense flocks are possessed, and an Irishman is on record who, at one time, owned 500,000 head. Sheep raising, however, is gradually becoming superseded by agriculture in the province of Buenos Aires, though it is on the increase in the southern part of the republic. It stands to reason, that the cattle industry is not without its difficulties. Sometimes the mortality is very great, and, of recent years, the fiehre aftosa has been carrying off hundreds of them. Besides, they eat a kind of thistle, called cardos, which, swelling them up, causes death. As you ride through the pampas, it is no uncommon thing, to see carcasses lying here and there, on your way. Estates in Buenos Aires cannot be willed away indis- criminately at death. The law requires a proprietor to divide his property equally among all his children, with the exception of one-fifth, of which he may dis- pose by testament. This must, in course of time, have the effect of dividing the vast estates, and creating more numerous, if smaller, land owners. The laborers on the estates, especially those engaged in /agriculture, are the numerous immigrants that Europe has, of late, been pouring upon the Argentine Argentina 91 shore. Many of them rent land, while others work on shares, giving a percentage to the owners. In course of time, by dint of labor and industry, they go to swell the number of landed proprietors, extending thus the basis of the nation's prosperity. Labor is much needed, and, consequently, all who are willing to work may find room, and, eventually, prosperity in Argentina. Outside of agricultural products, and meat, Argen- tina imports, at the present time, almost all that it needs, though the prosperity of the country is evi- denced by the fact, that, on the whole, its exports exceed its imports. Commerce with the United States is on the increase, and a number of articles are brought from our country, such as machinery, iron, steel, and building material generally, besides hats and shoes to some extent. A large proportion of the live stock and refrigerator meat, as well as wheat, is exported to England, and of wood to Germany. Great slaughter houses exist at Buenos Aires, where Armour & Company have a plant. Among Argentine manufactures leathern goods oc- cupy a prominent position, since skins are so num- erous, while beer and cigars are manufactured for home consumption. The photographic, and typo- graphic arts have, also, attained a condition of high perfection, besides some other industries. The railroad system in Argentina is the highest developed in South America, although it is mostly in the hands of foreign capitalists, English and French. The province of Buenos Aires, and a portion of Cor- doba and Santa Fe, are covered with a network of railways, connecting the capital with the outlying districts, while a few long-distance lines run north, south, west, and southwest. These railways have 92 Lands of the Southern Cross opened the country to settlement, and though many of the places, marked on the map, are merely stations, still they will no doubt, in course of time, form centres of population. One of the principal railways is the Central Argentine which, besides a local traffic, runs to Rosario, Cordoba, Tucuman, Salta and Jujuy, and almost to Bolivia. It is to be continued northward, and it may thus finally connect the Atlantic with the railways on the west coast. The Eastern railway runs southward to Bahia Blanca, and the Pacific railway westward to Mendoza, connecting with the Trans Andean lines, while the Southern railway has already reached Neuquen, in the southwestern part of the state. A number of other companies, too numerous to mention, operate roads in Argentina. The tracks are laid in three guages, broad, middle, and narrow. By one or another, it is now possible to reach almost the extreme limits of the Republic, except the far south, and other roads are projected. The lines are owned either by the government, or by English and French companies. The cars are of the American pattern generally, with sleeping, and dining cars, on the long-distance roads. The "sleepers" are either of the Pulman type, or they are built on the stateroom system, with a long corridor outside of the rooms. Each stateroom is made to accommodate two persons, with the neces- sary appurtenances for washing, as on board ships. Argentina is a federal republic, with fourteen pro- vinces, and ten territories. The provinces are Buenos Aires, Santa Fe, Entre Rios, Corrientes, Cordoba, San Luis, Mendoza, San Juan, La Rioja, Catamarca, San- tiago del Estero, Tucuman, Salta, and Jujuy, and the territories, Misiones, Formosa, Chaco, Pampa Central, Argentina 93 Neuquen, Kio Negro, Chubut, Santa Cruz, Tierra del Fuego, and Los Andes. The head of the federal government is at Buenos Aires, while each province has its legislature and gov- ernor, as in the United States. The complaint is heard, however, that the autonomy of the provinces is merely nominal, and that, in reality, everything is managed by Buenos Aires. The head of the federal government is the president, who, as well as the vice-president, is elected for a period of six years, and is ineligible for a second term that would immediately follow. There are eight cabinet officers, namely of the Interior, of Foreign Affairs and Worship, of Finance, of Justice and Public Instruction, of War, of the Navy, of Public Works, and of Agriculture. As in other countries, one hears complaints in Argentina of corruption in politics, and fraud in the election. Votes are bought, and cases are spoken of where even the names of dead persons were registered for voting. Evidently, political Argentina has not yet reached the millennium. As a rule, the foreign population takes little interest in government affairs, which are left entirely to the men of the old stock, who love politics. That is where Argentina differs from us. Notwithstanding this, however, men of Eng- lish, Irish, and German names have figured in the public life of South America, especially in the early days of the period of independence. Throughout South America, the great parties are those of Liberals and Conservatives, the extreme lib- erals, or radicals, being generally opposed to clerical- ism, which means to all religion, and the latter favor- ing the Church. There are various political shades in Argentina, such as the Kadicals, the Union Civica, 94 Lands of the Southern Cross and the Mitristas, to understand which would re- quire an elaborate, and, for our purpose, unnecessary study of Argentine politics. The judiciary of Argentina enjoys, at present, quite a good reputation. As with us, there are federal, and provincial courts. The federal judges who are named by the president, with the consent of the senate, must be lawyers by profession. They are irremovable. The federal courts are the supreme tribunal, the court of appeals, and the lower court, besides judges of the peace, and other magistrates for minor cases. The provincial tribunals are organized on the same basis. The Argentine military forces consist of the regu- lar army, the National Guard, and the Territorial Guard. Since 1905, military service has been obliga- tory for all Argentinians, between the ages of twenty, and forty-five, that is from twenty to thirty in the service of the regular army, between thirty and forty in the National Guard, and, from forty to forty-five in the Territorial Guard. The regular army, and the National and Territorial Guards in the capital, and in the federal territories, depend on the central govern- ment of the Kepublic, while, in the provinces, the guards are subject to the several provincial govern- ments. For the distribution of service, lots are drawn. Those that draw the highest numbers serve in the navy, then follows active service in the regular army for one year, then the reserve, and, finally, the national and territorial guards, according to the numbers drawn. Those that complete their year of active serv- ice, pass over to the reserve. The army possesses, also, a certain number of volunteers. Excepted from military service are persons pre- vented by physical defects, those upon whom the family Argentina 95 is dependent, the sons of certain public functionaries, and members of the clergy of all denominations, as well as ecclesiastical students. It will thus be seen, that Argentina is not quite so advanced in this regard as France, or Italy. Pesons exempt from the service, must, nevertheless, compensate for their exemption, by the payment of a military tax. The regular army numbers about twenty thousand in active service, and some 150,000 in the reserve. In the army, as well as in the navy, and the police force, the Indian type is very pronounced, as the nothern provinces furnish a large proportion of the men. There are several military schools in the Kepublic, where young men are trained for various branches of the service. The navy, which is the best in South America, con- sists of seven armored, and five unarmored cruisers, twenty torpedo boats, and six torpedo destroyers, in all thirty-eight vessels, besides an almost equal num- ber of transports, despatch boats, and other auxiliar- ies. The navy is to be increased by two battleships of the Dreadnought type, the Moreno, and the Riva- daviaj which are now in process of construction in the United States, and by fifteen torpedo destroyers. The battleships will be each of twenty-three thousand tons. The naval school in Buenos Aires prepares lads for the service, and a fine schoolship, tlie Presidente Sar- miento, with its periodical cruises, adds to their prac- tical training, the course lasting five years. On the occasion of the centennial celebrations, the La Plata witnessed one of the finest naval demonstra- tions ever made. Nearly all the great nations of the 96 Lands of the Southern Cross world had sent their ships, Great Britain alone being absent, owing to the recent death of the king. In the naval parade before the government building which was opened by United States sailors, France, Ger- many, Spain, Italy, Austria, Holland, Chile, Uruguay, Japan, and Argentina were represented, the long file of Argentine seamen making a splendid impression. Chapter VIII. FIEST DAYS IN BUENOS AIEES. Rates for Carriages — Hotel Plaza — Population of Buenos Aires — Plan of the City — Rapid Transit — The Houses — Names of the Streets — Calle Florida — PostoflSce — Telegraph — American Legation — Plaza de Mayo — The Avenida — The Anarchists — Student Demonstrations — The Club del Pro- greso — Palermo Park — Zoological Garden — An Argentine Breakfast — Museo Mitre — Hotel Albion — Opening of the Congress. After passing the customs, I engaged a cab, and ordered the driver to take me to the hotel Plaza. Al- though the distance is very short, my coachman de- manded three pesos, or about one dollar and forty-four cents, the Argentine peso, silver, being worth less than fifty cents of our money. Carriages are very plentiful, and extensively used in Buenos Aires, and they are, comparatively, cheap. My man demanded really too much, but, rather than have an altercation, I paid the price asked, while he comforted me with the as- surance, that I could better afford to pay, than he to lose it. For future use, I will give you an idea of the rates established by tariff, although, djjring the celebrations, people were asking all kinds of prices. Bear in mind the value of the peso which contains one hundred centavos or cents, and that the prices here given are in Argentine currency, silver. For a single trip, not exceeding ten squares you pay fifty cents, and, for every additional ten squares, thirty cents more. By the hour, a carriage will cost you $1.30 for the first 97 98 Lands of the Southern Cross hour, one dollar for every additional hour, and thirty cents for a quarter of an hour, or less. For the sub- urbs of Belgrano, Flores, Palermo, Chacarlta, and the Hippodrome, the prices are higher, as two dollars will be required for the first, and one dollar for every sub- sequent hour, or fraction of an hour. The hotel Plaza, the newest and, apparently, the best in Buenos Aires, is a large building of some ten stories or more, conducted on the system of our Amer- ican hotels, on the European plan. English is spoken in it quite extensively, from the hotel clerks, to the chambermaids. I was coolly informed that there was no room, as all the available space had been engaged for the foreign admirals. However, on my promise to leave the next day, I was given a small room which would have cost me about a dollar and a half in New York, for four dollars and a half. I was fortunate at that, when the prices of hotels and boarding houses were doubled and trebled, and when I remember that the cheapest cigar I could get at the cafe down stairs was a pesOj or fifty-cent cigar. Buenos Aires has now a population of from twelve to thirteen hundred thousand, and it is at present one of the four largest cities of the New World. The increase in population will best be appreciated, when we reflect, that, in 1770, the inhabitants of the city amounted to twenty -two thousand.^ About a hundred years later, the population had nearly reached the two hundred thousand mark, advancing by leaps and bounds. The immense increase belongs to the latest period. The plan of this city is not unlike that of Boston. It has grown from the original rectangular town, with 1 El Lazarillo de Ciegos Caminantes, 1773. First Days in Buenos Aires 99 its narrow streets, to immense proportions, drawing to itself the outlying suburbs, such as Belgrano, Paler- mo, and the many villas, like Alvear, Mazzini, Santa Kita, and numerous others. Washed on the east by the Rio de la Plata, it is bounded on the south by the Riachuelo river, and on the west by the long Avenida General Paz which, extending from the Riachuelo, reaches the La Plata at the northern point of the city. The streets of the old town, built by the Spaniards, are very narrow. In consequence, the lines of tram- ways are laid, not in the centre, but along one side, near the sidewalks, so as to leave room for carriages. The streets cross each other at rectangles. This is also true, in the main, of the various sections that have been added; but, as the city has grown without a predetermined plan, it gives the impression of a large patchwork of geometrical figures. These are crossed in all directions by very long avenues, while in the more modern portions of the city, the streets are wide and spacious, and the car tracks are laid in the middle. From the Plaza de Mayo, only a stone's throw from the docks, the beautiful Avenida de Mayo leads to the new Plaza del Congreso in a straight line. Directly north of this, runs in the same direction, Rivadavia street, until it strikes toward the south- west, becoming the Avenida Rivadavia, and, passing through the entire city, terminates at the Avenida General Paz, the city limit. This Rivadavia is, by its length, one of the most striking avenues of Buenos Aires. The city is filled with Plazas and parks, the largest of which is that of Palermo, in the northeast section. 100 Lands of the Southern Cross An immense system of electric cars runs in all directions, and, for less than five cents, you may go to any part of the city. Buenos Aires has not yet adopted the elevated railroad, but an underground system of railway is in course of preparation. It is not likely, that this population, with its aesthetic sense, will ever agree to the unsightly and noisy ^'ele- vated," but the "subway" system must be introduced, the immense increase of the population rendering some form of rapid transit absolutely necessary. The cars, as in Montevideo, carry large num- erals, that can be seen at a distance which, to the initiated, indicate the route followed. If stand- ing at a street corner, you signal to the con- ductor to stop, and he pays no heed to you, look to the top of the car, and you will see the sign completo, which means that every seat is taken. No one is permitted to stand within the car, and only a limited number may do so on the rear platform. On account of the immense crowds, an exception was made during the centennial celebration, and the cars were often crowded to their utmost capa- city, with people hanging on to the straps, and stand- ing on the steps, as they do with us. After you have paid your fare, the conductor will give you a little ticket. Keep it, for it is intended to serve as a receipt, and it must be exhibited to the inspector on demand. The houses in Buenos Aires are, as a rule, quite low, even two stories being of comparatively recent date. Yet the modern system is beginning to prevail, and the skyscraper shows an inclination to develop, as, for instance, in the Plaza hotel. Along the water front, you will notice a considerable number of high grain elevators. The architectural features of the city are Spanish and French. In fact, Buenos Aires reminds First Days in Buenos Aires 101 one greatly of Paris. American influence is seen only in some of the large new buildings in which the steel frame work, imported from the United States, tells us of home. The old Spanish stamp is still found, however, in spite of modem improvements, and there is no lack of barred windows and patios. Argentina has adopted an excellent means of pre- serving, and popularizing the great events, and prom- inent names, not only of her own history, but of that of the world, in the names of her streets and squares, which serve as an abiding object lesson. The system exists, also, in other countries of South Amer- ica, like Chile, and Peru, but it is especially striking in Buenos Aires. Almagro, Alvar Nunez, Balboa, are names that re- call colonial history, while San Martin, Bartolom^ Mitre, Kivadavia, and many more keep fresh the memory of Argentina's patriots, among illustrious names several of distinguished Churchmen figuring as well, like the priests, Anchoris, and Araoz, and the bishops, Arregui and Azamor. Ayacucho, Cachi- mayo, Cangallo, Kio Bamba recall victories or sacri- fices of the war of independence. Some names, like Estados Unidos, California, Panama, Callao, Lima, Paramaribo, are merely geographical, while others remind one of great men of other nations, such as Monroe, Pasteur, and Byron. Buenos Aires has, also, its Washington street.^ One of the most interesting streets, located in the original portion of the city, is the calle Florida, ex- tending from the Plaza de San Martin to the Avenida de Mayo, and becoming Peru on the other side of the Avenida. This is the great promenade of the people 2 Razon del Nombre de las calles, etc., Adolfo J. Carranza. 102 Lands of the Southern Cross of Buenos Aires. In the late afternoon it is crowded, like the calle de Alcald in Madrid, or the Kalver street in Amsterdam. So great is the throng which extends the entire width of the street, no attention being paid to sidewalks, that carriages cease to run. In fact, it would be impossible for them to pass. Dur- ing the festivities, the "Florida" was a dream of beauty, vieing with the Avenida by its myriad electric lights, that, stretching across the entire street, actu- ally formed a canopy of brightness. In San Martin street, you will find the caja de con- version, where worn out notes are exchanged for new, and foreign money for Argentine currency. To judge from the number of people, a great deal of business must be done here. One of our five dollar gold pieces was not accepted, because it was found slightly de- ficient in weight. The PostofiBcc, which a visitor must needs find at once, is located |at the corner of Corrientes, and Rec- onquista streets. It is hardly in keeping with a large city like Buenos Aires, either by its size or its general appearance, at least when we compare it with the elaborate buildings that our government is erecting all over the country. The service, however, is said, in some respects, to be superior to ours. Mail for the United States is forwarded, as soon as possible, by the quickest route, but the Argentinians complain that the same efficiency does not prevail as regards letters going from the United States to Argentina. It takes almost two months to receive an answer to a letter sent from Washington to Buenos Aires. The Post- office in Argentina is a government institution, under the minister of the interior. First Days in Buenos Aires 103 The telegraph is controlled by the government, but without a monopoly, as some lines belong to the provinces, and others to railways. Cables are oper- ated by the Central and South American Telegraph Company, which sends its messages to the United States and Europe, via Colon and Galveston. Rates to the United States are a dollar a word, including address and signature. You may deposit your cable- gram at a government office, whence it will be trans- mitted to the cable company, the office of which is at the corner of San Martin and Cuyo streets. In direct- ing a cablegram to Baltimore, I had omitted to add Maryland, never dreaming that any other Baltimore could be taken for ours. Happening to drop in at the office, some time later, I found that I was just in time to prevent the message from being sent to a Baltimore, somewhere in the British Isles. It should be noticed, that "Baltimore, Maryland," counts as one word. I found the service otherwise excellent. Not receiving a reply, I began to doubt whether my mes- sage had been delivered. The company then cabled to Baltimore, without extra charge, and notified me at my hotel of the safe arrival of the message. The afternoon of my first day in Buenos Aires was spent in driving, the assistant secretary of our Con- gress, SeJQor Santillana Velez, having kindly placed himself at my disposal. Our first visit was paid to the American Legation, where I met with a most courteous reception on the part of our minister, Mr. Sherrill. Whatever may have been the experience of others, I must say that, in my travels, both in Europe and America, I have never found anything but courtesy and kindness on the part of our repre- sentatives. The United States legation is situated 104 Lands of the Southern Cross on the Plaza San Martin, diagonally opposite the Plaza Hotel, and only a short distance from the docks. Mr. Sherrill is deservedly popular among Argentin- ians, having done much to increase esteem for the United States. Taking the Plaza San Martin as a starting point, we drive south, along the Calle San Martin, a dis- tance of ten squares, and find ourselves in the Plaza de Mayo, which to Buenos Aires is what the Puerta del Sol is to Madrid. We shall, again and again, resort to the Plaza de Mayo, but while we are here this afternoon, before the great rush of the celebra- tion begins, we may as well make a study of it. At one time, it was known as the Plaza Victoria, but the present name recalls the most important event in the history of the Republic, the cry for independence of May, 1810. As we enter the Plaza, and turn to the left, the first building that attracts our attention is a massive edifice of Grecian style, the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, to which we return, on another occasion. Following the calle Rivadavia in front of the cathe- dral, and the archbishop's residence, we reach the eastern side of the Plaza where, on the calle Balcarce, stands the Palacio del Gubierno, or the government building, a fine edifice in the Renaissance style. It is the official headquarters of the president and of the executive department. The large reception hall of the palace is especially noteworthy. On May 25, the president, and many dignitaries reviewed the mili- tary and naval parade from its balconies. From this modern building, the seat of the present government, we turn to another, at the southwest corner of the square. It is the building of the Cah- PLAZA DE MAYO, BUENOS AIRES First Days in Buenos Aires 105 ildo, which, in colonial times, was a kind of civil gov- ernment. This is the Independence Hall of Buenos Aires, for it was here, that, on May 25, 1810, the junta was named that put an end to the government of the viceroys, and established the independence of the country. From the balcony, Don Cornelio Saa- vedra addressed the multitude in the Plaza de la Victoria, exhorting them to unity. From the Plaza, we may now proceed along the beautiful Avenida Mayo, as far as the Plaza del Con- greso. As you drive along, you will observe a num- ber of hotels, such as the Paris, the Splendid Hotel Frascati, and the Majestic. The government has rented the last named to entertain the foreign dele- gates to the centennial celebration, for Argentina does things in grand style. We now return to the Plaza Hotel, to rest; for, after dinner, there is to be a re- ception to the Americanists at the Cluh del Progreso on the Avenida. Before proceeding to the Club, we take a walk through some of the streets. Darkness has now en- compassed the city, and myriads of electric lights are pouring forth their radiance on the great thorough- fares. Suddenly we hear a loud noise on the Plaza San Martin, with shouting and singing, then a body of men emerge from the darkness. These are the students. Day after day, and night after night, they will parade the city, following the blue and white flag of their country, and singing patriotic songs, forcing those they meet to uncover in presence of the flag. What does it all mean? The students are making a demonstration against the anarchists, of which there is a large number in Buenos Aires. Some time before the festivities began, these had shown signs of 106 Lands of the Southern Cross activity, and an intention to disturb the celebration. Notices were sent by them to the schools, that the Argentine colors would be torn from those who would dare to wear them. In defiance of these threats, the students are manifesting their patriotism. They even came into conflict with the enemy, by burning an anar- chist newspaper office, and, in one collision, several lives were lost. We learned all this by rumor, for the newspapers, by superior direction no doubt, published nothing. The government was not slow to act, and Buenos Aires was placed in a state of siege which, on the sur- face, could not be noticed, for it meant merely, that the habeas corpus was suspended, and that suspicious persons might be arrested without warrant. A large number of arrests were, in consequence, made, and the tranquility of the city was preserved. The anarchists had been making capital of the dis- content of the laboring classes, at the high rents pre- vailing, as well as of the dissatisfaction of the foreign element at the ley de residencia, or law of residence, which permits the transportation of undesirable for- eigners. This general discontent has, of late, shown itself in frequent strikes, Buenos Aires now facing the same economic problems as the rest of the world. The fear of the anarchists prevailed to such an extent, that dreading a repetition of the Barcelona honors, some religious houses were preparing for defence, and resistance. Among others, the convent of the Ladies of the Sacred Heart is protected with double iron doors, and similar precautions have been taken elsewhere. The student parades continued until after the great celebrations, which lasted about a week, nearly all AVBNIDA DE MAYO_, BUENOS AIRES First Days in Buenos Aires 107 business being suspended for several days. During that time, and long afterward, the city was most beautifully decorated with flags, those of Argentina and Spain being especially numerous. Italy, France and other countries, including some British, and an occasional American flag, were, also, represented. For some days, there was strong feeling against Brazil which did not send a representative to the festivities, until the last moment. It became so inten- sified, that the students, taking matters into their own hands, sent delegations to the houses that had hoisted the Brazilian flag, with a demand that it be taken down. In several instances, that came under my notice, the demand was complied with. A very pretty parade that was held one Sunday morning along the Avenida was one of boys and girls, led by young women with flags. The national hymn of Argentina which was heard so frequently during these days, begins thus: Oid, mortales, el grito sagrado Libeitad, libertad, lihertad, Oid el ruido de rotas cadetMs, Ved e% trono a la noble igualdad^ 8e levanta a la faz de la tierra Una nueva gloriosa nacion Coronada su cien de laureles Y a aus plantas rendido un lean. Come, mortals, hear the sacred strains, The song of liberty, While broken fall the captive's chains, And reigns equality. Mankind beholds a nation rise Humanity to greet, Its laurels lifted to the skies, A lion at its feet. 108 Lands of the Southern Cross The reception at the Club del Progreso was a bril- liant affair. Intellectual Argentina had sent some of its best representatives, whose names I will not mention lest I omit any, and from Europe and the other American countries had come men with an international reputation as Americanists. These Americanist gatherings have the advantage of renew- ing old friendships, and of creating new ones, but there is, also, an element of deep sadness in them; for past years rise up before you, and, in the throng, you look for old, familiar faces, only to be reminded, that they have vanished forever. Of all the large numbers that had attended the congress at Huelva in 1892, I can only recall three or four persons that were at Buenos Aires, namely the illustrious Ameri- canist, Dr. Seler, of Berlin, with his inseparable com- panion, Mrs. Seler, and Dr. Cordier, of Paris. There was a man present, to meet whom I would have been willing to undertake the voyage to South America. Many, and many an interesting hour I had spent with his books, and it was a most glad sur- prise to shake his hand at this gathering. I speak of Jos6 Toribio Medina of Chile, that indefatigable worker, probably the most voluminous bibliographer that ever lived. With several other gentlemen, he was representing the government of Chile at this Inter- national Congress. We shall meet him again at San- tiago. Besides myself, there was only one priest at this gathering, namely the distinguished writer, Mon- signor Toscano, Vicar General of Salta, and only two priests attended the Congress as Americanists. In fact, as I look over the past, I can recall very few clergymen among our members. I cannot remember First Days in Buenos Aires 109 a single Protestant minister at any of the sessions I have attended. At Buenos Aires, the Kussian priest represented his country, though I am not aware, that he took an active part in the proceedings. He was present in his regalia at the solemn opening, but I did not see him afterward, though I may have over- looked him. The only place where I can say that the clergy was well represented was the city of Quebec, where the Congress met, some years since, under the auspices of the University of Laval. Otherwise, only a few names occur to me, such as of the late Dr. Mariano Soler, Archbishop of Montevideo, that well- known Americanist Dr. Plancarte, now a bishop in Mexico, Monsignor Shahan, rector of the Catholic University of America, and the celebrated Jesuit, Father Fischer of Feldkirche in Austria. I know that there were others, but I cannot recall them now. I have often thought it a pity that we do not take a greater interest in the development of modern sci- ence. Instead of contenting ourselves with bemoaning the decadence of faith, and the increase of infidelity, and sitting upon the ruins of Jerusalem, singing the Lamentations, we might usefully spring into the breach, as our great predecessors, whom we call the Fathers of the Church, used to do. With this reception at the Club del Progreso, the courtesies of which were extended to us during our stay, the first day in Buenos Aires came to an end. I had ample opportunity to appreciate the culture and good manners of the gentlemen present. The forms of these receptions are, more or less, the same as in cultured circles all over the world. Two things, however, strike you in Argentina, namely the Cham- pagne bottle, and the camera. Champagne flows 110 Lands of the Southern Cross freely at every reception, though many present only sip at their glass. This is the only thing to do, if having to attend five or six receptions on the same day, you wish to keep a clear head. It is evident, that a good deal of money is spent at these receptions, but the Argentinians who make it easily, spend it freely. Whatever their vices may be, and all nations have vices, parsimony is not one of them. The camera too is generally on hand, being found even at private receptions and dinner parties. The illustrated periodicals, such as Caras y Caretas, fill their pages with illustrations, containing portraits of individuals. Bidding good-night to our friends, we return to the hotel where a good rest, after a fatiguing day, will prepare us for another round of sightseeing on the morrow. The 16th of May found me prepared to accompany the Americanists on their automobile excursion to the suburbs. As I have before remarked, in Latin countries, nothing is taken in the early morning, ex- cept a little bread and butter, and a cup of coffee or chocolate. You may ring the bell and have this repast brought to your room in the South American hotels generally, without extra charge, or you may go to the dining room. At the Plaza, I followed the latter method. My "desayuno^^ which really means break- fast, in other words, my coffee and bread and butter cost me one peso, or about fifty cents. In Buenos Aires, they speak of the early morning repast also as cafe con leche, coffee with milk, but frequently it should be styled milk with coffee, for I have noticed, that if you let the waiter serve you, he will give you about two-thirds milk, and one-third, or les's, of coffee. First Days in Buenos Aires 111 Yet, with good, rich milk, and good, warm coffee, you will have a delicious morning beverage. It was now the middle of May, and quite cool, as it might be about the middle of November in our southeastern states. Yet I ventured out, without an overcoat. It may have been this which brought on me a most severe cold, that caused me great incon- venience the first week in Buenos Aires. The hotel Albion, on the Avenida Mayo, had been assigned to us, as the Americanist headquarters. Here we were the guests of Argentina. This was the first time in my Americanist experiences that our hotel bills were paid for us ; but, I repeat. South Americans are generous. Later in the day, I moved from the Plaza to the Albion. At nine, we met on the Avenida before our hotel, and automobiles were assigned to the separate parties. Our excursion took us to Palermo. This suburb, if such it may be called, as it is really an integral part of the city, is situated in the northeast section, where the Cordoba railway sepa- rates it from the Rio de La Plata. Directly south- west lies the beautiful district of Belgrano, where so many of the English speaking residents reside. The quarter of Palermo is made up of a series of beauti- ful parks, and driveways. First, there is the Paler- mo, or Third of February Park, to the south of which lies the zoological garden. West and southwest, are the famous race courses, the Hipodromo Argentina, and the Sociedad Hipica, at which, during the races, Argentine society may be observed en masse. Further to the west, along the river, you will not fail to see the spacious grounds of the Argentine golf club, with beautiful driveways, and the lake in the centre. Still more to the northwest, about eight squares from the 112 Lands of the Southern Cross grounds of the golf club, the very large National hipodrome, or Hipodromo Nacional offers the pleas- ure of the races to thousands of Argentinians. As you drive through Palermo Park, you will, probably, also notice the cricket club almost in the centre. The grounds which, particularly, deserve our atten- tion are those of the zoological garden. We have left our automobiles, and, to go from one part of the garden to the other, we shall make use of a small railway running through it, for the convenience of the public, and moved by a naptha engine. Unless you have some one to enlighten you, as the Ameri- canists had, it would be well to provide yourself with a copy of the ^^Guia OficiaV^ of the zoological garden which is distributed gratuitously. The director, Senor Clemente Onelli, also publishes the "Bevista del Jardin Zoologico/^ patronized by the municipal- ity of Buenos Aires. This quarterly furnishes im- portant data regarding the progress of the Buenos Aires "Zoo." The "Garden" owes its origin to President Sar- miento who, in 1874, presented to Congress the pro- ject of a law for the establishment of the "Third of February" park, to which the zoological garden became an adjunct. The first animals were donated by Sarmiento, in the shape of three swans. Other donations following, the garden increased, until, in 1888, the park, with its "Zoo," was given to the muni- cipality, and the "Garden" was separately organized. From 1893 on, the public became more and more interested, until, in 1897, 1,135,730 persons were ad- mitted as visitors, almost as many as the whole pres- ent population of the city. The price of admission is very little, being less than five cents of our money. First Days in Buenos Aires 113 Besides the naptha train, originally intended for chil- dren, there are small carriages, ponies, llamas, and camels which may be obtained, at prices established by tariff. Kefreshments are served, in the Aquila Pavilion, and, on Sundays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, visitors may enjoy a band of music furnished alter- nately by the minister of war, by the electric com- panies that run their cars to the garden which has four entrances, and by the chief of police. Besides a fine collection of animals, like those found in all important zoological gardens, such as lions, Bengal tigers, elephants, hippopotami, bears, and other varieties of wild, as well as of domestic species, the garden may boast of a considerable num- ber, indigenous to the New World, especially to South America. Prominent among these is the American jaguar or leopard which is found from the southern part of North America to northern Argentina. One of the beasts at Buenos Aires has a bad reputation, for he is known to have killed a woman, an Indian, and two children. Several species of wild cats, notably the very rare eyra and yaguarandi are also found here, besides the puma, or American lion, which lives from North America to the straits of Magellan. Here too is the Argentine carpinchOj the largest rodent in the world, with the Patagonian rabbit, quite a rare speci- men. South America, particularly in Argentina, possesses more rodents than any other portion of the globe. The family of American toothless animals, such as anteaters, is abundantly represented, while a study of their habits is made by means of the cine- matograph. Among them, the sloth, belonging to Brazil and Guiana, is of especial interest to the vis- 114 Lands of the Southern Cross itor. Add to these the various kinds of American monkeys and other quadrupeds. The cameloids of South America, such as the guanaco, the llama, the alpaca, and the vicuna deserve special attention. The guanaco is found in great abundance in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, where it is killed for its wool, generally when a month old, to the extent of two hun- dred thousand a year. The llama belongs, as is well known, to the highlands of Bolivia and Peru. To the same regions belong the vicunas and alpacas, the latter of which is valuable for its wool, having given its name to a well-known cloth. To the bird species belong the jahiru of Paraguay, a storklike bird, the American ostrich, found so plen- tifully in Argentina, and the condor of the Andes. The best, and rarest bird in the pavillion of birds of prey, is the South American harpy, the only speci- men, thus far, kept alive in the zoological gardens of the world, and, consequently, unique. It was caught on the frontiers of Bolivia and Brazil, whither it had been driven by a strong north wind. Its home is in the mountains of Brazil. When, in anger it ruffles its feathers, the head assumes features almost human, thus explaining the origin of the mythological harpy, with the face of an ugly woman. The zoological garden of Buenos Aires was very fortunate in obtaining fourteen most rare specimens of the royal penguin, the fishlike bird of Patagonia, which has never figured alive in any zoological col- lection, as it is very difficult to preserve it in cap- tivity, and it has not been able to live, thus far, in the temperate zone. Those in Buenos Aires are from the islands of South Georgia. It took two years to bring them to their destination. PAVILLION FOR ZEBUS, ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS,, BUENOS AIRES First Days in Buenos Aires 115 Add to the animals I have mentioned, the various species of the reptile world, and you will form an idea of the collection of American animals possessed by the zoological garden of Buenos Aires. Besides the value of the collection itself, the garden is intensely attractive from the general appearance of the grounds, with their fine walks, and from the architecture of the buildings. There is an aesthetic touch about it all, with pavillions most beautiful, and appropriate. T^ake, for instance, the home of the lions which is a Eenaissance building, like the lion house at Breslau, but larger. The residence of the elephants, designed by the municipal architect, Seiior Virgilio Cestari, is a copy of the temple of a god- dess of India of the period of Kajah Tirumal. The statues, bas reliefs, and inscriptions within are taken from the most celebrated religious monuments of the land of the Ganges. The condors are kept in an im- mense cage of iron, the summit of which can be seen from Belgrano, or from any high building of the city, but which appears so light and ethereal, that you would imagine you could blow it over. A portion of a building in the Moorish style is set aside for the giraffes, and the other portions belong to the zebras. The female buffalo, Torita, born in Montana, United States, presumably the Yellowstone Park, lives in an elegant little dwelling with two towers. Her com- panion, sent by Mr. Frank Baker of the Washing- ton "Zoo," died, unfortunately, on his arrival, and Torita was left alone. I would consume too much space, were I to dwell on all the elegant buildings of this beautiful spot. What I have written should, at least, give an idea, of the zoological garden of Buenos Aires, which is, certainly, one of the finest adornments of the city. 116 Lands of the Southern Cross After a light refection, provided for us at the garden, we were driven home, having certainly en- joyed the fine excursion in this magnificent city of the southern hemisphere, and the delightful compan- ionship of our fellow Americanists. The languages heard most on this excursion, after Spanish, were German and French, as a considerable number of the foreign delegates spoke the former as their mother-tongue, and the latter is a universal language. A great deal of French is spoken in Buenos Aires, and it is safe to say that persons of any edu- cation all understand it. You will find English and German especially in commercial circles, while Ital- ian is everywhere, although the immigrants from Italy seem to adapt themselves very well to the lan- guage of the country. Breakfast was taken at our hotel. The Plaza will serve you d la carte, if you wish, but, as a rule, in the real South American hotels, talle d'hote meals are served, breakfast taking place between eleven and one, and dinner in the evening. According to Argen- tine custom, the first course at breakfast consists of cold meats. The menu of a breakfast given to the Americanists by the University of La Plata, at the Hotel Sportsman, may serve as an example of such a meal. At a hotel you, of course, pay extra for wines and cigars: Hors D'Oeuvres Viande froide Panache (cold meat) Sauteme Salade Russe Potage (Soup) Julienne Poisson (Fish) Chateau La Rose Filet de Sole Normande First Days in Buenos Aires 117 Entries Filet Durham Richelieu Villeroy au petit pois frais Parisienne Roti Dindonneau Broche au Cresson Entremets Gateaux de Nolx Fruits assortis Champagne Caf6 Cliquot Cigars In the afternoon of the day on which we visited the zoological park, we met by special invitation at the ^'Museo Mitre"' in the Calle San Martin. This museum is thus called because it is established in the house occupied by Bartolome Mitre, the contents of which are kept, more or less, as they were in his life time, together with his library. Bartolom6 Mitre was, surely, one of the great states- men and literateurs of South America. His name ia, perhaps, heard more than that of any other Argen- tinian, except San Martin who was the Washington of Argentina. Mitre was born at Buenos Aires in 1821, and, from his teens, he began the double career of soldier and writer. Until 1852, he led a life of many vicissitudes in Bolivia, Chile, and Peru, returning, finally, to take an active part in the affairs of his country. When the dissensions between Buenos Aires and the provinces had been settled by the sword, Mitre, then governor of Buenos Aires, having gained the victory of Pavon, was elected constitutional president, an 118 Lands of the Southern Cross office he held from 1862, until 1868, when he was suc- ceeded by Sarmiento. It was during his administra- tion, that the basis of Argentine prosperity was laid, in spite of the disastrous war with Paraguay that was waged during his time. The last years of his life were those of a scholar, and his library remains a monument to his studious habits. He died Janu- ary 19, 1906. Bartolom6 Mitre was an indefatigable worker, and he will be remembered, not only as a soldier and statesman, but, especially, as an historian and a poet. Among other works, he has bequeathed to posterity the biographies of Belgrano, and San Martin. His large work '^Catalogo Razonado de la Seccion de Len- guas Americanas/' gives him a place among Amer- icanists, and serves as an evidence of his erudition, and varied acquirements. The house he occupied in the Calle San Martin, and in which he died, is one of the old Spanish residences, with its traditional court yard. The rooms are, ap- parently, as when he lived in them. That in which he breathed his last is especially interesting. He departed this life a sincere Christian, in the shadow of the crucifix, whatever the sentiments and conduct of past years may have been. A long, sombre, room contains his voluminous and valuable library. One of the most precious works in it, is that entitled ^'Doctrina Cristiana y Cathecismo para la Instruccion de los IndAos.'^ This is the first book printed in South America. It was published by order of the Council of Lima in 1584, by the printer Antonio Ricardo who had come from Mexico to Peru. The first book printed in America which appeared at Mexico in 1535 has completely vanished, while of the First Days in Buenos Aires 119 first book that issued from the press in South Amer- ica, only two copies are known outside of Peru, one that belonged to the library of Chaumette-Des- foss6s, and this copy of General Mitre.* The "Museo Mitre" contains, also, a valuable col- lection of documents appertaining to the colonial his- tory of Argentina, and covering the period from 1514 to 1810. Senor Alejandro Kosa, to whom the Amer- icanists are indebted for his courtesy is the director of this museum. Under his care, the manuscript of the "Catalogo Razonado" of Mitre was published, in view of the Americanist Congress, to the members of which it was presented. The day was brought to a close with a reception given to the Americanists by our minister, at which General Leonard Wood, special representative of the United States to Buenos Aires was present. The com- pany consisted entirely of gentlemen, the best of the old Argentine society, men of the state and of letters, ex-ministers, journalists, poets, and historians, with a sprinkling of Americans. One of the distinguished persons present was the venerable founder of the city of La Plata, Dr. Dardo Eocha. A gentleman with an Irish name, a member of the old Irish colony, and speaking English perfectly, in- troduced himself to me. In the course of our con- versation, he informed me that he lived in the "camp." This was the first time I had heard the term, and, wondered what kind of a camp it might be. The explanation was soon forthcoming. The whole of Argentina outside of the cities, or you might say outside of Buenos Aires, is the camp, that is the 8 Recordando el Pasado, Serafin Livacich, Buenos Aires, 1909. 120 Lands of the Southern Cross country. The word camp has, clearly, been taken from the Spanish "campo," the field or country, or, as they say in French, "La Campagne." The hotel Albion to which we returned after the reception is a typical South American hotel, though the proprietor is a Swiss. You pass from the street through a small vestibule where the "porter," an employe always found in European hotels, has his desk. The porter, or whatever other name he may bear, is the one to whom you generally resort for information. He is supposed to know everything, and, when you leave, he comes in for a good share of your tips. I willingly gave mine to him, as he was such an obliging, and good-natured Frenchman. From this vestibule, you enter the lift, or elevator, which will carry you, if you wish, to the top of the house. The hotel is built in the form of a quadrangle with an immense open space between the four sides. The rooms generally open on to galleries overlooking this space. Except those on the Avenida, they have no opening but the door, and, consequently, they are dark and cheerless. To make matters worse, the elec- tric current, as seems to be generally the case in South America, is turned off during the day. Winter was coming on, and, especially in the evening, it was very cold, but there was no heat in the house. The South Americans are no friends of artificial heat; most of them seem afraid of it. Except in the more modern houses, in the larger hotels, and in public buildings, there is no way of heating, except by small braziers, or oil stoves, which may be carried from room to room. This is true of Chile, as well as of Argentina, countries in which the cold may be severely felt. It is no wonder, that you hear such complaints First Days in Buenos Aires 121 of colds. The consequence is, that you are forced to wear your overcoat at all times, indoors and out, and that ladifes bring their wraps and furs into parlors and reception halls. In spite of the cold, however, they will attend public functions in full dress, for female vanity is very self-sacrificing the world over. On Tuesday, May 16, the Americanists held their preliminary meeting in the building of the Faculty of Letters, situated at No. 430 in the Calle Viamonte, and belonging to the University of Buenos Aires. At three of the afternoon, the solemn inaugural ses- sion was held, in the large hall of the Municipal Bank, in the presence of the ministers of Justice and Public Instruction, and of the Interior, of the Inten- dente or Mayor, and of other distinguished persons, under the presidency of Dr. Victorino de la Plaza, Minister of Foreign Affairs. There was of course the usual speechmaking, with more or less eloquence, in the course of which, our minister politely referred to Argentina as "a young giant among the nations." The United States was everywhere alluded to with respect, and the Smith- sonian Institution obtained its well-merited share of recognition. The United States and the Smithsonian had three representatives at the Congress, namely, Professor Bayley Willis, Dr. Hrlicka, and myself. The whole of Wednesday was devoted to scientific work, and the reading of papers. As I did not attend the morning session, I determined to visit the Pas- si onist Fathers whose church is situated at the corner of Estados Unidos and General Urquiza streets, and for whom I had a letter of introduction. This com- munity was established from the United States, and, to the present day, a number of its members are Amer- 122 Lands of the Southern Gross icans. I waited for a long time, at the Calle Vene- zuela, about four squares south of the Albion hotel, but, as no car arrived, I proceeded on foot. I had walked about thirty squares before I reached my destination, that is about one-fourth of the entire width of the city, reckoning from east to west. When the Passionists arrived in Buenos Aires, some years ago, they were at the outskirts of the city; now they are not even in the centre, for Buenos Aires has ex- tended three times further to the west from the river. The immense growth of the city can thus easily be seen. My walk gave me the advantage of becoming better acquainted with the general appearance of this older portion of the city. There are several large hospitals in the neighbor- hood of the Passionist church of Santa Cruz, namely the Spanish hospital at the corner of Belgrano and Bioja streets, the hospital of S. Eoque on General Urquiza, between Venezuela and Mejico, and the French hospital, opposite the Santa Cruz church, on General Urquiza and Estados Unidos. Many more hospitals are scattered throughout the city. One square from the Passionists, the Irish Sisters of Mercy conduct a boarding and day school for girls, Irish as well as Argentine, and one for poor children. Returning from the Passionist Fathers by electric cars, I found myself caught in a crowd on the Plaza de Mayo, and soldiers were lined up along the streets, for the Infanta Isabel had just arrived, to represent Spain at the centennial celebration. Years ago I had seen the Infanta at a bullfight in Saragoza, and I was to see her again at Lujan, before leaving Argen- tina. Time has told on her, as on her sisters of more modest condition in life, and she is now a portly lady with grey hair. First Days in Buenos Aires 123 From now on, the army was to be in great evi- dence in Buenos Aires, taking part in the reception of dignitaries, as well as in general parades. At the close of the Americanist Congress, or rather after the celebrations of May 25, I left the Albion hotel, to accept the invitation of the kind Paesioniat Fathers who wished me to spend a few days with them. It was, indeed, a relief to get away from the crowd, and breathe a purer air with such charming companions. Besides, it was like reaching home again, as my hosts were, nearly all, Americans, or Argentinians of English and Irish descent. Bidding farewell to General Wood on the deck of the warship Chester, was another reminder of home. Immediately behind the Chester, lay the good old Verdi, that, in a few days, was to begin her return voyage. A parting cup of tea was sipped on board with my old friend, Mr. Hulse,, the purser, and, on leaving the docks, I seemed to bid farewell once more to my country. Shortly after the celebrations, the foreign delegates began to depart to their respective countries. The Infanta Isabel was escorted to her steamer with great military display, and immense crowds. The sojourn of the late President Montt of Chile had been over- clouded by a sad event, the sudden death of his young secretary in an elevator accident in the hotel Majestic. Chapter IX. PLACES— PERSONS— MANNEKS— CUSTOMS. Crowds — Night in Buenos Aires — The Teatro Colon — "Drug- stores" — The Building of Congress — The "Prensa" — News- papers — Historical Museum — The Reservoir — Jockey Club — The Slums — The Working Classes — Public Charities — Architecture — Tea and "Mat§." Proceeding directly from New York to Buenos Aires, excepting the language and the architectural features of the city, you would find little difference between the capital of Argentina and one of our busy American cities. The same life is there, the same rush, and activity, and the same manifestations of industry characterize the great metropolis of the La Plata regions. The crowds, however, are less excited. People do not make a mad rush for cars, elbowing each other out of the way. Even when Buenos Aire^ was at fever heat, during the celebrations of May, and it was, almost, possible to walk on the heads of the people in the Calle Florida, and the Avenida, there was no evidence of disorder. No one seemed to lose patience, everyone took his time. I have never seen such crowds. At night, on the broad Avenida, car- riages ceased making an attempt to run, for the mul- titudes absolutely filled the street. Argentina seemed to have poured its population into the capital. Yet the police handled the crowd admirably. I saw no clubbing, no forcing back of the people by men on horseback, not a sign of disorder. The gentle manner 124 Places — Persons — Manners — Customs 125 of the police was admirable. Sometimes they would reason with an obstreperous individual ; but, as a rule, they did their work, and said nothing. It was evi- dent, that they were trained to the task, though the strain upon them must have been immense. Occasion- ally an arrest would be made, but in such a quiet, and matter of fact, manner, that only the immediate bystanders knew anything of it. It is a wonder to me, that with the narrow streets of old Buenos Aires, and the numerous carriages con- stantly rushing through them, there are not more ac- cidents. The busiest thoroughfares are the Avenida, and the narrow streets to the north of it, like Florida, Bartolom^ Mitre, San Martin, Corrientes, and others where the banks, ofiQces, and stores are, to a great extent, located. The surging multitudes on these thoroughfares are intent on business during the day, in the evening they are returning home, and, at night, they are amusing themselves. Ladies, some on foot, others in their car- riages, are visiting the stores, bent on that errand so dear to the feminine heart, "shopping." Some- times you meet a group of Argentine beauties, with the Castilian accents undulating from their lips, and an occasional long accentuated '^ee/' rising above the other tones, to denote, probably, one of those dimin- utives so much in favor in Spanish, like Anita, little Anne, hi jit a, little daughter, or even cosita, little thing. In the evening, after dark, until a late hour, Buenos Aires, like Paris, is abroad. Unlike the cities of the west coast, where, at night, everything seems dead, the capital of Argentina is very much alive. A profusion of electric lights turns night into 126 Lands of the Southern Cross day. If there is one thing in modern civilization that South America has adopted with a vengeance, it is the electric light, in the street, in churches, in hotels, in residences : everywhere. The dazzling splen- dor, during the festivities of May, on the Avenida, the Plaza de Mayo and del Congreso, as well as on the Calle Florida, baffles all description. Millions and millions of bulbs which are all imported from abroad, were strung up in these streets, to such an extent, that for some time it was not possible to light them all. Surrounded by this radiance, people are moving to and fro in considerable numbers, some are taking a walk, others hastening to the cars. Equipages and pedestrians are wending their way to the theatres, and other places of amusement. The most important theatre in the city is the "Tea- tro Colon," a splendid edifice, and, surely, one of the largest in the world. The Americanists, as guests of the municipality, heard, within its walls, the Ital- ian opera Vesta. To judge from appearances, all that was fashionable in Buenos Aires was there. Be- tween the acts, as is done elsewhere, there was a gen- eral survey taken of everybody by everybody. Gen- tlemen, standing with their back to the stage, would sweep the audience with their opera glasses, while, ladies in their seats, if they occupied a convenient position would imitate their example. At one inter- mission, the Americanists were ushered into a large reception room, and treated to the inevitable cham- pagne. Although moving picture shows exist, they are by no means so frequent as with us. In fact, I saw only a Places — Persons — Manners — Customs 127 few of them, and, on the Pacific coast they are still less in evidence. A favorite way of spending time in the evening is to sit at table on the broad sidewalk of the Avenida, in front of one of the brilliantly lighted caf^s, and sip sodas, lemonade, liqueurs, and so on. Numerous tables are ranged on both sides of the sidewalk, leav- ing room in the centre for pedestrians. This Parisian, or European, custom is of recent introduction into Buenos Aires. On the other hand, you never see a soda water fountain in a drug store, or anywhere, for that mat- ter. Argentina does not appear to have taken kindly to the custom. Drug stores, as we call the apothecary shops, are quite numerous, and some of them very ele- gant. Quite a number call themselves "English," '^Drogueria Inglesaf but I failed to see one with the adjective "American." The "English" drug stores, and, perhaps, some of the others, sell toilet articles, but they do not include stationery or cigars in their stock. Should an enterprising American undertake to establish a drug store on the American system, he will, no doubt, have to beat down much opposition on the part of those who have preempted the field. Drugs are, to a great extent, imported from France, although some of our American wholesale houses have, I believe, their agents in the field. By law, the drug- gists may not sell certain medicines, even such a rem- edy as calomel, without the prescription of a physi- cian. Doctors and dentists must make money in Buenos Aires, to judge from the prices they charge. A master in the dental profession who had me in his chair was quite surprised that a piece of work for which he 128 Lands of the Southern Cross wanted to charge me |100.00 in Argentine money, could be done in the States for ten or twelve dollars, gold. At the end of the Avenida Mayo, there is today a splendid Plaza, that of the Congress. About a year ago, this Plaza did not exist, and the space was oc- cupied by streets, and houses. Within a few months, the entire place had been cleared, houses torn down, streets obliterated, obstacles overcome, and the Plaza was a fact, to the glad surprise of the people of Buenos Aires, who felt therein the vital energy of their young nation. Facing this Plaza, stands the new Congress build- ing where Argentina makes her laws. Divided into two wings, for the accommodation of both houses of Congress, the edifice is surmounted 15j a lofty dome, the whole occupying a commanding position at the foot of the Avenida de Mayo which connects the Plaza del Congreso with the Plaza de Mayo. A fine eques- trian statue of Bartolome Mitre, with symbolical statues, is to be erected on the Plaza del Congreso. Before leaving this vicinity, it would be well to take a look at the beautiful edifice of the "Prensa" on the Avenida de Mayo, which is said to be the finest newspaper building in existence, especially for the magnificence of its interior, for its splendid recep- tion rooms, as well as for its equipment. The Pren- Stty or Press, is the largest newspaper, not only in Buenos Aires, but, probably, in the Latin world. Its general make-up much resembles our great dailies. I have lying before me a copy every bit as large as the New York Herald or the London Times, and con- taining twenty pages. Nine or ten of them are cov- ered with advertisements of all descriptions. The Places — Persons — Manners — Customs 129 "help wanted," and "positions wanted," columns are in form precisely like those of the New York Herald, The illustrations, however, are very poor. A con- siderable portion of the paper is devoted to news, local, national, and foreign, with signed articles from correspondents. La Nacion is an important paper of Buenos Aires, of which, at one time, Bartolome Mitre was editor. Other papers in the city are La Argentina, rather sensational. El Diario, La Razon, La Repuhlica, El Correo del 8ud, El Pueblo, besides many more, while the provinces have, also, their local journals. Day after day, one hears the newsboys in the streets, the cars and everywhere, as with us, proclaiming their lists of papers, Prensa, Diario, Nacion, not so pithily, and briskly as our boys are wont to cry, but in that peculiar sing-song manner, to which the Spanish lan- guage lends itself more easily. Newsboys are news- boys all over the world. One morning, on the Aven- ida, I ran into a newsboys' fight, and found three or four of them striking a little Jew whose only defense seemed to be his tears. Siding with the "under dog," I took the little ruffians to task. Their excuse was, that he was a Eussian. Everything that in the re- motest manner savored of the anarchist was in those days in bad repute in Buenos Aires, and the Russian Jews were not in good odor. There are many foreign journals in Buenos Aires, and several in the English language. The Standard is, perhaps, the best known of these. It is a large sheet of about fourteen pages, with news especially of interest to the English colony, and a good deal of local information of the same character. Equally good is the Buenos Aires Herald with readable edi- 130 Lands of the Southern Cross torials, and a very gentlemanly, and affable editor, Mr. Finn. The Southern Cross is a strong Irish paper, edited by a priest, Monsignor McDonnell, and, as its name denotes, the Hiherno Argentine Review is also devoted to the children of Erin. The Passionist Fathers have lately begun a monthly, entitled The Cross, which promises, from what is said of it, to be a success. Although the art of printing had existed in Mex- ico since 1535, and in Lima from 1580, it was not introduced into Buenos Aires, until 1780, by the ini- tiative of the Viceroy Vertiz. However the Jesuits in Tucuman had been printing a long time previously. The first paper ever published in the city, the Tele- grafo Mercantile had a very short life, from 1801 to 1802. Eeturn now to the Plaza de Mayo, and tell your driver to take you to the Museo Historico, in the Calle Defensa, or walk it, if you prefer, following the street some distance past the large churches of the Fran- ciscans and Dominicans that you cannot fail to no- tice. The historical museum is in charge of the well- known historian, Adolfo Carranza, and it is of the greatest value for the student of Argentine history. The house itself is a relic, as a well preserved edifice in that old colonial style which, in Buenos Aires, is fast disappearing. The old Spanish patio, with the well in the centre, remains intact, a memory of by- gone days. Especially interesting is the furniture of the room in which San Martin died, that was brought over from Boulogne. The large and beautiful garden of this old residence is now converted into a public Places — Persons — Manners — Customs 131 park, giving an idea of what colonial wealth and ele- gance must have been. Among the public buildings of Buenos Aires which you must, surely, not fail to see, is the great reser- voir, east of the buildings of Congress, occupying a whole square on Kiobamba street. You would never know its purpose, were you not told, for it looks like an immense palace, splendidly adorned on the outside with glazed tiles. The huge water tanks are within. A general filtration plant purifies the water used by the city. The sewerage system, especially in the older part of Buenos Aires, is perfect, and one is spared the dirt and filth of which we hear such complaints in some other cities of Latin America. The modern and artistic Jockey Club, on the Calle Florida, can hardly be surpassed as a club building. Of very large proportions, splendidly equipped, it is a fine specimen of ornate Renaissance. At the close of the International Congress of Americanists, a fare- well banquet was here tendered to the members by the President of the Congress, Dr. Jos6 Nicolas Matienzo, dean of the faculty of philosophy and let- ters of the University of Buenos Aires. As you stroll through the streets of Buenos Aires, you will find, here and there, a poor man or woman, seated in a nook or corner, peddling cigars, cigar- ettes, stogies, or some other article. Occasionally you meet one imploring alms; but not frequently, al- though the crowds of the May Days seemed to draw out more beggars than ordinarily. Beggary is for- bidden by law, and very few mendicants are seen at the church doors, as in Europe, or at Rio de Janeiro. One evening, walking along the Avenida, I beheld the pitiful sight of a poor creature, about seventy or 132 Lands of the Southern Cross eighty years of age, huddled in a corner of the side- walk, with a little boy by her side, the picture of the most abject misery. The sight was touching, as it formed such a striking contrast with the magnificence all around me, though the old woman may, for all I know, have been a professional, as, on another occa- sion, I met the same couple again. As a rule, however, one sees very few signs of misery or wretchedness in Buenos Aires. There is poverty, of course, as there is everywhere, and the condition of the poor is, no doubt, wretched in a large city, where rents are high, and the struggle for existence has begun with all its concomitant evils; but this poverty and wretchedness do not force them- selves upon you. Many of the poor live in those miserable, low. South American tenements, known as conventillos, yet they are, perhaps, a degree or more less wretched, than those of the unsightly tenements of New York, that reach up to the skies. The con- ventillo is a long, low, building, opening on the street, and stretching far back. As you pass along, you catch a glimpse of a passage, with rooms opening into it, the rooms of the poor, where, often, squalor and misery prevail. Each family occupies one or more rooms, according to its means. Directly south of the city, in a district known as Nueva Pompeya, inhabited largely by Italians, a bridge crosses the Riachuelo to the Villa Alsina, on the other side. At this bridge, a great many skins are loaded on large boats to be floated down the river to La Boca for exportation. La Boca is the quarter at the extremity of the docks between the Darsena Sud, and the Riachuelo. In this Italian quarter, but, especially at the Boca, you will see the life of lower Places — Persons — Manners — Customs 133 Buenos Aires, of the hewers of wood, and the drawer* of water. At the Boca, where sailors of all nation- alities are to be expected, you must be prepared for the kind of life you will find in all large seaports. In Argentina there is work for all; but wages are not so high as ours, though living is really cheaper. As with us, there is a great proletariat, an immense class that live by the labor of their hands, not only of men, but of women too. Although the employ- ment of women in Argentina is far from being so uni- versal as with us, and there is not such an immense multitude of factory girls, still women and girls find a considerable amount of employment. There are shop girls, "salesladies,'^ telegraph office girls, girls that make and pack cigars, and cigarettes, girls in photographic establishments, besides many in other industries. I think that these are, nearly all, taken from the foreign population, the great army of bread- winners that have come from Europe, to seek their fortune in the New World, and who are obliged to begin at the foot of the ladder. Ladies of the middle class are seen abroad, as in our country, well dressed, more or less active, attend- ing to their several affairs on foot in the streets. Those of the "upper ten," and the wealthy generally drive around in their carriages. One very useful occupation of the ladies of Argen- tina is the management of public charities, which is, generally, in their hands, and there are many chari- table institutions throughout South America. Be- sides, although they take no direct part in the gov- ernment, they make their influence felt, and it is, generally, for good, because the ladies of South America, as a rule, are religiously inclined. For 134 Lands of the Southern Cross instance, when an attempt was made to introduce divorce into the country, it was the combined action of the ladies that nipped it in the bud. Together with the clergy, they have, also, been very influential in framing Sunday laws which are, fairly well, ob- served in Buenos Aires. That flagrant disregard of the sanctity of the Lord's Day that one sees in some cities in Europe is not generally noticed in the capital of Argentina. In Latin countries, girls are kept more closely guarded than in those of the Tuetonic or Anglo-Saxon race; yet, in the more modernized countries of South America, far less so, than was the custom years ago. I think that the higher the class to which they belong, the more secluded they are, and that the original Argentinians have preserved more tradition in this regard, than the foreigners. It is not good form for young ladies to walk the streets alone, they are not left to "keep company" with young men, unless under supervision, and, in Spanish America, the vigilance of parents is sometimes very strict. On board a steamer, on one of my journeys, there were a father and daughter. It was quite evident, that he watched her with a vigilant eye. If some or other young man engaged her in conversation, the old gentleman was sure to make his appearance, a conduct in marked contrast to that of English and American parents abroad who take it for granted, that their daughters are old enough to care for themselves. At public functions, and receptions, ladies appear to be less in evidence than in our lands, where a greater equality among men and women prevails. The ladies in South America are less masculine than ours; but they would possess still more grace, were PRIVATE RESIDENCE, BUENOS AIRES Places — Persons — Manners — Customs 135 they to use less powder and paint, a disgusting cus- tom that prevails generally. From the old "blue blood" Argentine society, you must distinguish in Buenos Aires the nouveau-riches of which there are a great many. Some persons of this class, though they have made a great deal of money, and they live in fine houses, have not entirely weaned themselves from the habits of their earlier life, nor adopted culture and refinement. A gentle- man of this description may still dress in the style of the "hacienda," and the old lady may come down to the parlor in a neglig6 costume, yet, apart from all this, it is a pleasure to meet them, with their simple, and unsophisticated manners. Foreigners say, that even the old Argentines are careless in their own houses, and that the brilliancy and etiquette, shown in public, do not always find their counterpart at home. The houses, built on the old Spanish-American sys- tem are, besides being low, at most of two stories, constructed around a patio, or courtyard, upon which the living rooms open. This is rather uncomfortable in bad weather, as to go, say from the parlor, or from your bedroom, to the dining room, you must pass through the patio, and be exposed to the rain, the cold, or the night air. There is, also, a large number of houses of two stories, occupied by separate families, the one on the ground floor, and the other immediately above. The newer residences of the wealthy are more mod- ern in type, and some are quite palatial, being greatly influenced by French architecture, with decorations elaborate and rich. You will find in them large, well 136 Lands of the Southern Cross ventilated bedroms, opening on the balcony and over- looking the street, splendidly furnished parlors and dining room, and a lift or elevator. Sometimes the kitchen is at the top of the house, so as to avoid the odor of cooking. Again the family may possess a smaller dining room for little domestic reunions, or an afternoon tea. The four, or five o'clock tea has gotten to be quite fashionable in Buenos Aires, under the influence of English associations. Argentina consumes much tea which might supersede the old mate^ were the latter not so deeply rooted in national habit. This herb, yerha, grows in Southern Brazil, Paraguay, and in Gran Chaco, Argentina. It is drunk from a gourd, the mate^ through a tube, the homMlla. Some of these gourds are very rich, mounted, as they are, in silver and gold. Put first the homMlla into the gourd, then the tea to which sugar must be added, and pour hot water over it. When the beverage is exhausted, pour in more hot water. The taste for mate must be acquired, but you will not be a full-fledged Argentinian, until you have learned to drink it. The Jesuits are said to have first discovered the properties of this South American tea. You may, also, use it in a cup with sugar and milk, as you would an ordinary tea, from which it will not differ so much in taste. The custom used to prevail of passing the m^te from mouth to mouth; but, under the influence of foreign influx no doubt, it is wearing away. It was even bad form to wipe off the mouthpiece, and the servant was the first to taste it, in order to clear the tube. Places — Persons — Manners — Customs 137 Argentina must be one of the great tea drinking countries, if one judges from the amount of teas ad- vertised. These advertisements are especially prom- inent on long sign boards above the street cars, for much of the advertising is done from the top of the cars. Every now and then, you see a car with the sign, in big letters, of Te Tigre, Te Magnolia, or of some other kind of tea. Chapter X. THE CHUKCH IN AEGENTINA. Churches and Parishes — The Cathedral — Tomb of San Martin- Archbishop's Palace — Hierarchy in Argentina — The Cas- sock — Procession of Corpus Christi — San Francisco and Santo Domingo — Argentine Generosity — Funerals — The Friars in South America — Monument to Belgrano — Church of St. Ignatius — Admiring American Methods — The Pas- sionists — Our Lady of Lujan — Reminiscenses of Pio IX — The Infanta Isabel — Irreligion — Protestant Churches. It is impossible to write of South America, with- out referring to the Church, as you meet her, at every step. During the colonial period, she played a most important part in the development of the newly dis- covered countries, and, even today, she is so inti- mately bound up with public life, that it is impossible to overlook her. When the colonies won their inde- pendence in the last century, they were not prepared for the step that Brazil took, nearly a hundred years later, and thus Church and state remained generally united. The numerous churches in existence today testify to the piety of past generations, while^ as a conside- able proportion of the population is made up of church-goers, especially among the women, the sacred edifices are still very much in use. As I arrived in Buenos Aires on Sunday morning, I went in quest of a church. The one I found after some inquiries, was that of El Socorro, with an aris- tocratic congregation, consisting of a number of men, 138 The Church in Argentina 139 and very many ladies. It was Pentecost Sunday, and a Solemn Mass was in progress. High Mass is sung generally on great feasts, or on special occasions, when sermons are, also, preached. The church was well filled, and it was noticed, that the ladies gener- ally wore hats, having discarded the mantilla which is worn only by women of the lower classes, contrary to what one observes in other South American countries. The Socorro, at 888 Calle Juncal, dates from 1783. It is a parish church. There are twenty-four parishes and two vice-parishes in Buenos Aires, but, besides these, the city numbers, at least sixty other churches and public chapels, and about seventy chapels that are known as semi-public. The parish churches are attended by a number of priests who are employed in the service of the church, and of subordinate institu- tions. Besides, it is customary in Buenos Aires for families to have a large number of Masses said at the same time, for which service many priests are required. You will notice that the churches of South America generally contain a large number of side chapels with altars. In Buenos Aires, these altars are frequently erected and maintained by private fam- ilies. After Mass, I repaired to the sacristy, where I be- came acquainted with a courteous young priest, Don Fortunato Devoto, of whom I had read, and whose portrait I had seen the day previously on board the ship in Caras y Caretas, a popular illustrated maga- zine. He was, at the time, temporarily in charge of the astronomical observatory of La Plata, and the magazine in question had been interviewing him on the comet I which was fast approaching the earth. His words, no doubt, contributed greatly to allay the fears 140 Lands of the Southern Gross and anxiety of his readers. I met him quite accident- ally in the sacristy; but I was to enjoy his company a few days later at La Plata. The church of La Merced, also a parish church, No. 203, Calle Reconquista, was formerly the church of the order of La Merced of the Redemption of Cap- tives, an order of Spanish origin, once quite num- erous, but limited at present mostly to Spanish America. The cathedral, on the Calle Rivadavia, which sep- arates it from the Plaza de Mayo is, of course, the most important church of the city. Its foundation co-incides with that of Buenos Aires, as its site was «et aside for the parish church, on June 11, 1580. The first building, erected in 1622, was of adobe, with a thatched roof. This was, in course of time, im- proved upon and repaired, until, on May 24, 1753, it collapsed. The present edifice was begun in 1791. The facade, designed on the plan of La Madeleine, at Paris, owes its origin to President Rivadavia. The Plaza de Mayo is, evidently, the original, and oldest square in the city, as it was the custom of the conquistadores to build their principal church on the Plasia Mayor, or great square, called also some times Plaza de Armas, square of arms, a kind of Campus Martis. In the vicinity of the cathedral, or mother church, the Franciscan, Dominican, Augustinian and Mercedarian Friars, with the later Jesuits, were ac- customed to erect their churches. These religious men played always a most important, if less ostentatious, part in the history of American colonization. Ascending a low flight of steps, you find yourself in a lofty Corinthian portico, surmounted by the ordi- nary triangular tympanum, filled with figures in re- The Church in Argentina 141 lief. Entering through the middle door, you will be Impressed by the sombre majesty of the interior, bro- ken only by the gold and decorations of the main altar. Before the altar, on either side, in the spacious sanctuary, are ranged the stalls in which the canons at stated times of the day, take their seat to recite or chant the office. I have not observed in South America the old Spanish custom of having the coro or choir in the centre aisle, as one sees it at Cordova, and in other cathedrals of the Peninsula. There are several tombs in the cathedral, but the most important is that of General San Martin, in a side chapel to the right, as you face the altar. Jos6 de San Martin was born in Argentina in 1778, and educated in Spain, where he served in the Pen- insular armies. He had attained to the rank of colonel, when the revolution broke out in his coun- try, to which he hastened back to offer his services that were gladly accepted. Henceforth he becomes one of the most prominent figures, not only in the history of Argentine independence, but in that of South America, being second only to Bolivar, if he did not equal him. His passage across the Andes was sufficient to immortalize him, and to give him a niche in the temple of fame beside Hannibal and Napoleon. Argentina, Peru and Chile profited by his military genius; yet, when the supreme glory of final conquest was in sight, he generously ceded all to Bolivar, and retired to private life. He was saved the bitterness of fraternal discord that was soon to de- vour the vitals of the new republics. San Martin died at Boulogne in France, on August 17, 1850. His grate- ful country brought his remains home, and erected his splendid mausoleum in the cathedral. Both Chile and 142 Lands of the Southern Cross Peru have consecrated statues to his memory, and, during the centennial celebrations of the present year, the latter sent her cadet corps to visit his tomb. They were received on May 21 at the entrance to the cathedral by the archbishop, while one of the officers read an address, to which the vicar-general replied. The cadets of Chile and Argentina then marched into the cathedral^ filing before the tomb upon which those of Chile placed a wreath. Both bodies of young men, the hope of their country, made a fine appearance, as they marched through the dim aisles of the lofty edifice. The cathedral parish is divided into two sections, namely the vicariates of the Cathedral North, and the Cathedral South. The former is served by the church of La Merced, and the other by that of St. Ignatius. To the left of the cathedral, stands the archbishop's palace. Entering through a large gateway, and some- what obscure vestibule, you find yourself in a spacious courtyard of genuine old Spanish type, with offices and reception rooms on both sides. From the rear, you pass to the sacristy of the cathedral. A fiight of stairs in front will lead you to the living rooms of the archbishop and his household, and to the large reception room, from which a balcony overlooks the Plaza de Mayo. On one of the days of the centennial celebrations, the archbishop courteously invited the foreign dele- gates, and officers who were priests, to a breakfast at his palace. Among the guests, we noted the elo- quent bishop of Serena, Chile, and a number of naval chaplains, notably the chaplain of the steamer that had brought the Infanta Isabel from Spain, the chap- lain of the Spanish Corvet Nautilus, and Chaplain MAUSOLEUM OF GEN. SAN MARTIN The Church in Argentina 143 Macdonald of our own South Dakota who appeared in the United States uniform. There are nine dioceses in Argentina, namely Buenos Aires, Cordoba, Salta, San Juan, Parand, La Plata, Santa Fe, Tucuman, and Santiago del Es- tero. The hierarchy consists of one archbishop, nine diocesan bishops, and a vicar-apostolic, besides several auxiliary bishops. The diocese of Cordoba is the oldest in the coun- try. It was established in 1570 as diocese of Tucu- man, with the residence of the bishop at Santiago del Estero whence, in 1699, it was removed to Cordoba. The present dioceses of Tucuman and Santiago del Estero are of much later date. When, in 1580, the parish church of La Santisima Trinidad, in Buenos Aires, the present cathedral, was established by Juan de Garay, founder of the city, the whole region of the La Plata was subject to the jur- isdiction of the bishop of Asuncion in Paraguay; but, in 1620, Buenos Aires was made a diocese, its bishop becoming suffragan to the archbishop of Lima. The see remained vacant many years, after the separation from Spain, that is from 1812 to 1834. In 1865, it became metropolitan. The present archbishop. Dr. Mariano Antonio Es- pinosa, born in 1844, and educated at Buenos Aires, and in Eome, was transferred from the see of La Plata to Buenos Aires in 1900. He is a courteous gentleman of conservative tendencies. As Church and state are united in Argentina, the senate nominates the candidates to the episcopacy, and the names are forwarded to Home. It sometimes occurs, that the candidate is rejected. The system is surely not the best that can be desired, as it naturally 144 Lands of the Southern Gross renders bishops, more or less, subservient to the state, and timid, especially when they are subsidized by the government. This is one of those evils inseparable from a union of Church and state which, in the past, has caused no end of trouble to the Church. There are over three hundred secular priests in the diocese of Buenos Aires, besides a very large number of others belonging to religious orders. Each diocese, except La Plata and the small diocese of Santiago del Ester o, has its own seminary in which young men are trained for the priesthood. The students of La Plata are educated in the Pio-Latino College in Kome, and at the seminary of Buenos Aires, which is in charge of the Jesuit Fathers. The clergy of Argentina, as a body, bear a very good reputation for conduct, though the general com- plaint one hears in South America is that many of the foreign secular ecclesiastics, led to America more by self interest than by zeal, have proved themselves worthless. For this reason, the bishops have become more cautious in admitting strangers. In Argentina, as throughout all of South America, ecclesiastics always wear the cassock. I am, how- ever, aware of the fact that, in Buenos Aires at least, there is a decided wish on the part of some of the clergy to discard it as a street costume; but they are, naturally, opposed by the older conservative element. There is no doubt, that in a city like Buenos Aires, seething with elements hostile to the Church, the ecclesiastical garb is somewhat of. a hindrance. Though it may protect the respectability of a priest, it also hampers his freedom of action, and must nec- essarily dampen his zeal. In the United States, priests clad in secular garb, go anywhere and every- The Church in Argentina 145 where. They penetrate, unhampered, into every nook and corner of their parish, they learn to know their people. I am afraid that this personal work of the ministry that brings the priest in touch with the peo- ple is a great desideratum in South America, for the most useful part of a priest's life does not lie in the routine work between four walls, but in seeking out the lost sheep of Israel. It is clear, that in a large, modern city, like Buenos Aires, where the cassock is exposed to constant ridicule, and where a very large proportion of the foreign element hates the very sight of it, a priest becomes timid, and must, of necessity, lack that fearless temper which would lead him to brave every obstacle, and go into the enemy's camp, if it is necessary. A priest's life in Argentina, especially in the "camp," is a very lonely one. He visits little, and must always be on his guard among a people who watch his every action. Hence a condition of great isolation. This animosity manifested toward the clergy, on the part of a portion of the foreign element, has, as far as I am aw§re, never gone to the extent of inter- fering with the public exercise of religion. I attend- ed, on May 26, the Corpus Christi procession on the Plaza de Mayo, and saw no evidences of disrespect. On the contrary, there were many signs of genuine piety, in spite of the fact, that, owing to the great crowds, perfect order could not be observed. Before the procession. Bishop Jara of Serena, Chile, delivered an eloquent discourse, filled with patriot- ism; and, at the completion of the ceremonies, the people, wishing to hear him still further, began to clamor for Jara, until he came out upon the balcony 146 Lands of the Southern Cross of the archiepiscopal palace, and delivered another patriotic oration. The procession was accompanied by a detachment of soldiers, with military music, and some of the most prominent gentlemen of the city took part in it, with candles in their hand. In spite of the obstacles which union of Church and state produces, there is consolation for the former in the fact, that she has a standing, and that, officially, she is held in honor. State celebrations are, as a rule, accompanied by religious ceremonies, and the bishops are great dignitaries. For instance, on May 25, the great anniversary, and culminating day of the fes- tivities, the celebrations began with a Te Deum in the cathedral, in presence of the authorities of the Ke- public, the Infanta Isabel, the president of Chile, and the foreign delegates. As you proceed southward from the Plaza de Mayo, along the Calle Defensa, you will meet with two large churches, to each of which a monastery is at- tached. The first is that of St. Francis, the other of St. Dominic. With the exception of the Bene- dictine monks, that spent some time in Hispaniola in the days of Columbus, the Franciscans and the Domin- icans were the earliest missionaries of the New World. We find them everywhere in the colonies. Franciscan Friars, it is supposed, came to the La Plata with Mendoza, and, a few years later, they ac- companied Cabrera to the same region. In the latter half of the sixteenth century, Franciscan religious set- tled in the vast region known as Tucuman, now com- prised in the Argentine Kepublic, a region which was, afterward, evangelized by that great Franciscan Friar of Lima, San Francisco Solano. We find the The Church in Argentina 14:T Franciscan monastery in Buenos Aires in the very be- ginning of the seventeenth century. Their second church was erected in 1602 on the site where their chapel of St. Koch now stands, and the present large edifice, forming an angle with the chapel of St. Rocli, was dedicated on May 25, 1726. The large and splen- did Renaissance church has recently been renovated by the donations, as I am told, of a wealthy Argen- tine lady. In our country, as we know, churches are built by the contributions of the faithful. Whence comes the money for the same purpose in Argentina? First, we must remember, that many of the. churches date from the Spanish period. For what concerns the building of new, and the reparation of old edifices, some have been put up by the government, while the work is done, to a great extent, by private individuals, as well as by general contributions. Although priests generally are not supported by the government, I don't think that, in Argentina, they have any difficulty to live, for Argentine Catholics are generous. As a rule, the Church bears the mark of material prosperity, without the struggle for existence it has in some coun- tries. As an instance of Argentine generosity, the fact was related to me that when the Liga Social, a society on the order of the Young Men's Christian Associa- tion, had been established, one lady promoted its interests with an annual donation of something like 115,000. The priest's ministry is in itself a means of sub- sistence, not only from collections but, also, from the offerings of the people for baptisms, marriages, and interments. 148 Lands of the Southern Cross Funerals in Buenos Aires take place usually from twenty-four to thirty-six hours after death. Embalm- ing is rare, except in the case of prominent individ- uals. As a rule, it is now cheaper to bury the dead, than it was at one time, owing to increasing com- petition among impresas funehres, that is burial com- panies, or, as we should say, undertaking establish- ments. A fairly good funeral, with services in the church, hearse with four horses, and half a dozen car- riages would cost about |300.00 Argentine money. Some funerals are conducted with great pomp, much money being expended, among other things, for the choir. It is, also, customary to have many Masses said, at the time of the funeral, and, also, on the an- niversaries. Sometimes every altar in the church is engaged for Masses for the same person. Not only funerals, but, also, anniversaries are announced in the newspapers, the friends of the family generally as- sisting. The proceeds of a public lottery, authorized by the government, are employed, among other charities, for the building of churches. The Franciscan church in Buenos Aires glories in the possession of the body of Father Luis Bolanos, one of the early missionaries who died in the odor of sanctity, and whose canonization is in process. In one of the courtyards of the monastery, a tree is shown which is said to have been planted by Father Bolanos. He died early in the seventeenth century.^ The Friars in South America, though by far not so active with the pen as their predecessors of the early colonization period were, still have men dis- 1 Dos Heroes de la Conquista. Fray Pacifico Otero. Buenos Aires, 1905. The Chv/rch in Argentina ' 149 tinguished by their learning and writings. In their convent at Buenos Aires, one of the number, now in the prime of life, is Fray Pacifico Otero, a man dis- tinguished as a preacher, and for his historical knowl- edge. He is the author of numerous works, dealing with the early history of the La Plata countries. The other church to which I have referred is the Basilica of the Holy Kosary which belongs to the order of St. Dominic. The Dominicans who were the earliest friars in Peru, passed from that country to Chile, whence those came who, in 1604, founded the monastery in Buenos Aires on the present site. The church is of later date. When Kivadavia was presi- dent of Argentina, in the third decade of the nine- teenth century, a number of religious orders were expelled from the country, and, with them, the Dom- inicans, and the Mercedarians whose old monastery may still be seen, near the church of La Merced. What ever may have been Bivadavia's motive, it appears that the vicar-general of the diocese was in harmony with him. This was the period, following the revo- lution, when the see was vacant. The old library of the monastery was scattered, and it is said that some of its books are now in the Museo Mitre while others, no doubt, are in the national library. The Dominicans afterward returned to Buenos Aires, and a portion of the old monastery is still occupied by them. They possess ten conventual establishments in Argentina. On the little square, outside their church, stands a splendid monument to the Argentine hero, Belgrano, who, in 1806, commanded the city militia that helped to expel the British from Buenos Aires. Having taken part in the war of the revolution, figuring as one of its greatest heroes, he died at Buenos Aires in 1820, 150 Lands of the Southern Cross in his fifty-first year. His name is among the Argen- tine immortals, and preserved by an important suburb of the city. The present church of Santo Domingo was con- structed in 1776. The canon balls fastened into the walls of the towers are relics of the British invasion of 1807. The church of St. Ignatius, 203 Calle Bolivar, be- longed to the Jesuits before their expulsion, toward the end of the eighteenth century, when they were driven out, in the most cruel manner, from all the Spanish possessions. It is now the parish church of the '^Cathedral South." The present pastor. Canon Jose Pacifico Alcobet, has been attached forty years to this church. A fine old cloister runs along the church, which is built in the Jesuit Kenaissance style; but the inter- ior has undergone much restoration. The building back of the church, now the University of Buenos Aires, and in a part of which the national museum existed until quite recently, formed a portion of the old Jesuit college. The other portion has been de- stroyed, to make room for an educational institution. All these churches, Franciscan, Dominican, and Jesuit, with that of La Merced, and a number of others are in the old part of the city. Another old Jesuit church is that of San Telmo in the Calle Humberto I., of which a priest of Irish descent, Monsignor MacDonnell, is the actual pastor. When the Jesuits had been expelled, it passed over to the Bethlemites, an order founded in Spanish America. These were expelled by Kivadavia, and San Telmo is now a parish church. The clergy house was the monastery of the Jesuits, and, later of the Bethle- mites. The Church in Argentina 151 Other parish churches in old Buenos Aires, dating from the colonial period, are the Concepcion in the Calle Independencia, No. 904, Monserrat, Calle Bel- granOy 1152, and San Nicolas de Bari, Calle Pelle- grini, 404. The well-known Monsignor Orzali, cura of San Miguel, is a progressive man, and an admirer of the United States which he visited in 1903, while chaplain of the school ship Sarmiento. He has given up his impressions of our country in a little volume, published in Buenos Aires in 1904 as Cuarto Yiaje, etc., "Fourth Voyage of Instruction of the School- Frigate Sarmiento." Mgr. Orzali has introduced into his church our American custom of preaching five- minute sermons at the . Masses on Sundays. Another priest who much admires the methods of the Catholic Church in this country is the Kev. Sebas- tian L. Monteverde, cura of the church of the Immac- ulate Conception of Belgrano. This edifice, a rotunda, is one of the finest in the city. The Jesuit church of San Salvador, attached to a large college, is one of the great centres of piety, and, as Jesuit churches generally are, quite popular. The, Fathers of the Divine Word, belonging to a religious congregation founded at Steyl in Holland, have erected a large, and beautiful Byzantine church at Palermo where they minister to a congregation which is largely Italian. The little church of the Passion ists, whose hospital- ity I enjoyed for nearly two weeks, was originally intended for English speaking Catholics, but, as the centre of population has shifted, it is now employed for all, though sermons are still preached in English. The Passionists, like the Eedemptorists and others in South America, devote themselves greatly to the 152 Lands of the Southern Gross work of giving missions throughout the country. On Sundays, priests from the Passionist monastery, de- liver discourses in English at a few churches, like San Miguel, San Nicolas, and the church of Belgrano. One of the finest churches in Argentina, in fact 1 am not sure, but that it may rank as the finest, is that of Our Lady of Lujan. Lujan is for Argentina what Lourdes is for France, and Guadalupe for Mex- ico, the place of pilgrimage, with the national shrine. A small, provincial town, it lies about an hour and a half from Buenos Aires on the Western railroad. It is the Mecca of pious Argentinians. Among the many distinguished persons who have visited Lujan, none is more so than Pope Pius IX. When, in the early part of the last century, he ac- companied the nuncio to Chile, as auditor, his route took him from Buenos Aires westward across the Andes. In those days, a delegate from the Holy See was not a welcome visitor to Argentina, and the nun- cio, with his suite, was obliged to move on. They stopped over one night at Lujan on their westward journey. The old, Spanish sanctuary, built in 1754 has in part disappeared to make room for the present magni- ficent Gothic edifice, the corner stone of which was laid in 1887, and which is far from being completed. The front is temporarily enclosed with boards, and the work is continuing. Unlike most South Ameri- can churches, that of Lujan is built in the purest Gothic style. Its massive and austere interior trans- ports you in imagination to one of the grand, Old World cathedrals of the Middle Ages. A unique, and original feature is the Lady Chapel, where the mirac- ulous image is preserved. Built on immense columns, The Church in Argentina 153 it rises above the sacristy, behind the main altar, an aerial sanctuary, to which a double flight of broad stairs admits. The Lazarist Fathers who live in the adjacent monastery have charge of the basilica. It was a rainy Sunday morning, when in company with Father Dominic of the Passionists, I arrived at Lujan. A short drive from the station brought us to the church. It was a gala day for the place, as the Infanta Isabel was expected. On a recent visit to Europe, Bishop Jara of Serena, Chile, had taken nineteen banners from South Amer- ica to Rome, to be blessed by the Pope, afterward pre- senting them to the shrine of Our Lady of the Pillar at Saragoza. In return, the Infanta was the bearer of a beautiful banner of Spain sent by the archbishop of Saragoza to Our Lady of Lujan. This was the morning of the presentation. Buenos Aires had sent its pious, or curious crowds to attend the ceremony, and the side aisles were grad- ually filling up, people seizing upon every vantage ground, and standing upon the seats, to obtain a good view. The Infanta arrived about eleven, with the arch- bishop of Buenos Aires, the bishop of La Plata in whose diocese Lujan is situated, the bishop of Serena, a Spanish general, the minister of Spain, a lady in waiting, and a number of other persons. On arriving at the church, the Infanta and her suite occupied seats immediately in front of the sanctuary, and the Mass began. After Mass, the eloquent Jara delivered a discourse, to accept the banner for the sanctuary of Lujan. It was brief, as, owing to a severe cold, the bishop had nearly lost his voice. As I stood near him, in the sanctuary, I distinctly caught, among other things, the following sentence: 154 Lands of the Southern Cross "Should ever a nation that is not of our race attack that banner, let us all rally to its support." Official Buenos Aires was conspicuous for its ab- sence on the occasion. There were no soldiers, nor even policemen, as far as I could see. The Infanta was received, and escorted to the station by a primi- tive local band of music, and, as she walked down the aisle to leave the church, the crowd pressed around her so closely, that I wondered why so few precautions were taken. In spite of the fact, that a representative of one of the most punctilious courts of Europe was the central figure of the occasion, the affair was quite democratic. There was no admission to the church by ticket. All God's children were admitted to God's house, and, though there seemed to be a lack of order, the poor were not made to feel that they were nobody, and the confusion was without disturbance. After the ceremony, the Infanta repaired to the house of the Lazarists, where she registered her name as ''Isabel de Borbon, Infanta de Espana." Thus passed into history one of the features of the Argen tine celebration of the anniversary of independence. Besides their work in the parochial ministry, in teaching, and in giving missions, priests in Argentina, especially members of the religious orders, labor, also, for the Indian tribes. Thus the Salesian Fathers de- vote themselves to Patagonia, one of their number being Vicar-Apostolic. The Fathers of the Divine Word are in the north of the country, in the provinces of Misiones and Corrientes, as well as in Paraguay. In spite of all the churches in Buenos Aires, and of the labors of the priests, in Argentina, and in South America generally, there is much irreligion. A considerable number are actually hostile to the The Church in Argentina 155 Church, while a very large proportion, though profes- sedly Catholic, are indifferent, as far as the practice of religion is concerned. The infidel literature of the eighteenth century, secret organizations, bad example, and many other causes have produced this result. We must, however, give credit to the Argentine clergy for not compromising with the irreligious spirit, even when it manifests itself in high quarters. As an in- stance, I may cite the Revista Eclesiastica del Arzo- hispado de Buenos Aires, an official, and very clever review, published under the auspices of the archbishop. In one of its numbers, among its ecclesiastical notes, it cites the Puehlo, to show the anti-Catholic spirit of a high public official, who, when a committee of ladies called upon him, to petition for the establish- ment of a bishopric in Kosario, told them that he would in every way oppose the measure, because Eos- ario progressed better without a bishop and "the plague of clericalism." Among the many societies, religious, social, and charitable, that witness to the activity of the Argen- tine Church, mention should here be made of the Cir- culos de Ohreros, or Workingmen's Societies, founded by the Eedemptorist, Father Grote, and spread throughout the Kepublic. The object of the society is to promote the material and spiritual welfare of the working classes, on the principles of Christian social economy. The means employed are mutual suc- cor, in the case of sickness, the foundation of primary schools for children, and of night schools for adults, the creation of employment agencies, the promotion of useful recreation, and the convening of workingmen's congresses. From what I could learn, these circles are very flourishing, with the encouragement of the clergy, under the spiritual direction of Father Grote. 156 Lands of the Southern Cross There are, at least, thirteen circles in the capital, and fifty in the provinces. I understand, also, that the order of Knights of Columbus, so flourishing in the United States, had been established at Buenos Aires with the sanction of the ecclesiastical authorities, but that the permission was, afterward, withdrawn, so that the attempt came to naught. There are a few English, American, and German Protestant churches in Buenos Aires, for, in spite of the official character of the Catholic Church, all relig- ions are permitted in the Kepublic, and no one inter- feres with the exercise of any. The opinion in Cath- olic circles throughout South America is, that the Protestants do not make sincere converts out of the Latins, but, that, by drawing them away from the Catholic Church, they make them bad Christians, and indifferent to all religion. From what I could see, the South American clergy pays little heed to the activity of the Protestants. The Methodist Church in Buenos Aires calls itself the American Church. Among Protestant activities, I may also mention the American Bible Society, the Young Men's Chris- tian Association, and the Salvation Army. There are, also, at least two homes for seamen, under Protestant auspices, the one German, and the other English. Chapter XI. EDUCATION IN ARGENTINA. Education in the Colonial Period — Public Schools — Secondary and Higher Education — University of La Plata — The Museum — Astronomical Observatory — Cordoba — Catholic Educa- tion — Parochial Schools — Catholic University — Protestant Educational Work — Schools of Rev. C. Morris. In the colonial period, education was mainly in the hands of priests, the Jesuits being especially promi- nent. Schools, colleges, and universities arose in every country of Spanish America, for the natives, as well as for the children of the Spaniards, under the patron- age of Spain, and of the Church. With the expulsion of the Jesuits, Spanish America lost its greatest edu- cators, and some of its most learned men. With the independence of the colonies, the state, as far as constant revolution would permit, began to take an interest in the work of education, and, today, especially in Chile and Argentina, that interest is decidedly great. The Argentine government, as well as other South American countries, has done much for education, and public schools are spreading everywhere, besides many normal schools for teachers. Between the ages of six and fourteen, primary education in Argentina is compulsory, and gratuitous. In 1909, the federal gov- ernment maintained 4,744 primary schools with 168,- 534 pupils, and 18,061 teachers, while the provinces supported a great many more. The entire number of 157 158 Lands of the Southern Cross children of school age in the Kepublic amounted to 1,200,212. Secondary education is almost gratuitous, only a small fee being charged for registration. There are sixteen lyceums, and thirty-five normal schools in the larger cities.^ Centres of higher education are in the university of Buenos Aires, in that of Cordoba, founded in 1612, in the National University of La Plata, and in the pro- vincial universities of Santa Fe and Parana. I shall here especially refer to the University of La Plata, as I am better acquainted with it. In doing so, I must write of the city itself. The city of Buenos Aires is the capital of the Argentine Kepublic, but not of the province of that name. As New York is the most important city of the United States, and yet not the capital of the state of which it bears the name, Albany having that distinction, thus the province of Buenos Aires has its own capital. The name Buenos Aires is older than the great city on the Rio de La Plata, for it was given by the early Spaniards to the region as '^ Santa Maria de Buenos Aires," "Our Lady of Good Climate," in memory of a far-off shrine in Spain. However, it is only of recent years, that the pro- vince of Buenos Aires has had its own capital, in the city of La Plata. La Plata, unlike so many other places, in the New World, proceeded Minerva like, full- fledged from the head of its founder, about twenty-five years ago. Buenos Aires was declared the capital of the Argentine Republic in 1880. On November 19, 1882, La Plata was founded, to serve as the capital of the province, and, two years later, the provincial 1 Bulletin American Republics. July, 1910, p. 23. Education in Argentina 159 authorities moved to the new city. The original ground was within the limits of a large estancia, or cattle farm, donated by the owner for the purpose. The founder, who is still alive, and whom I had the pleasure of meeting in Buenos Aires, is Dr. Dardo Kocha. La Plata is about eighteen miles southeast of Buenos Aires, with a population of 90,000, and com- pletely modern, with exceedingly wide streets. It has the distinction of being the first city in South America, to introduce electric cars, but, owing to a financial crisis, I think the one that struck the whole country on the bankruptcy of Baring Brothers, the service was suspended, and when I visited La Plata, only horse cars were running. As the seat of government, and of a university, it is not commercial, but rather academic in tone. Quiet prevails throughout, and, after dark, it is dead. For business, and for amuse- ment, people must resort to Buenos Aires. La Plata is filled with splendid public buildings, that give an air of distinction to the city. Though laid out on a different plan, and being only the capi- tal of a province, it may be called the Washington of Argentina, on a small scale. The first of these buildings is the government house, like the rest, built, more or less, in classic style, modi- fied by later Kenaissance features. The central part of the building projects outward between two wings, with an arched entrance, beneath an elevated Ionic portico. The governor of the state who received the Americanists in the large reception hall was Colonel Jos6 Inocencio Arias. The palace of the legislature is an imposing build- ing in the same style, with its two beautiful legislative halls, one for the house of delegates, and the other 160 Lands of the Southern Cross for the senate. Other imposing buildings are the court house, the city hall, and the residence of the governor, besides several large schools. The most important edifices in La Plata, and those which will particularly interest the visitor belong to the University, which was founded in 1905, at the time, when Dr. Manuel Quintana was president of the Eepub- lic. The courses were inaugurated in March of the following year, with 1,012 students. That number has since been increased to over 2,000. The buildings of the university, with their adjacent grounds and gard- ens, are scattered over the city. They were put up at a cost of nineteen million Argentine dollars. Their number is, at least, eleven, devoted, as they are, to the sections of social and juridicial science, pedagogy, philosophy and letters, mathematics, physics and astronomy, natural sciences, with geography, chemis- try, and pharmacy, besides agriculture, and veterinary science. The university has, also, a school of design. To the preparatory department belong a national college, with over 500 pupils, a college for young ladies, with over 200, and a graduate school, belonging to the section of pedagogy. The buildings are all in the Renaissance style, the large patio in the main building being particularly noticeable. With a beautifully tiled floor, it is sur- rounded by a tower, and upper gallery, with columns respectively of the Doric and Ionic orders. The spac- ious, and elegantly furnished reception hall of the president breathes an air of academic tranquility, in- spired by classic taste. In this building is, also, the main library, with 40,000 volumes which is, at the same time, for the use of the public. The various departments have their special libraries, with about 30,000 volumes. MUSf^UM^ I.A PU\TA Education in Argentina 161 One of the most aesthetic of the buildings, by the chaste lines of the centre, and its rather unique semi- circular terminations, is the one devoted to the natural sciences, and design. The museum is, also, in this building. A beautiful, and shady walk between tall, slender trees, clustering forest-like together, leads up to it. The first floor of the building is devoted to the splendid museum, while one wing of the upper floor contains the library, and the other, the section of the fine arts. The vestibule is a circular hall, beneath a graceful dome, surrounded by slender pillars. The collection in the museum consists principally of geological, paleontological, anthropological, and ethnological specimens, with a department of zoology. Its main interest lies in the fact, that so many of the specimens are South American, a fact that renders it invaluable for a study of the anthropology, and ethnology of the La Plata regions. The collection of skulls must be one of the best in the world. Dr. Kobert Lehman n-Nitsche, curator of the anthropolog- ical section, was the secretary-general of the Inter- national Congress of Americanists. To the small de- partment of archaeology, or rather history, belongs an interesting collection of relics from the Jesuit mis- sions in Paraguay. This beautiful museum, undoubt- edly, reflects great credit on Argentina. From the museum, we may proceed to the astrono- mical observatory in charge of Eev. Fortunato Devoto, whom we had the pleaesure of meeting, at the church of El Socorro in Buenos Aires. The grounds of the observatory contain a considerable number of build- ings, wherein a variety of instruments assist the astronomers in their study of the heavens. The two most striking, are the circular edifices, the one serv- 162 Lands of the Southern Cross ing for the reflector, and the other for the great equa- torial telescope. The meridian instrument, with a diameter of sixty centimetres, was made by Gautier of Paris for the Sultan of Turkey, Abdul Hamid, in 1889. As the Ottoman government failed in its pay- ments, the instrument was put on exhibition at the Paris exposition, and, finally, purchased by the pro- vince of Buenos Aires. An interesting instrument is that intended for the study of seismology, or the science of earthquakes. It is kept in a subterranean apartmenT. Besides this observatory of La Plata, Argentina possesses another that is well known, at Cordoba. Both are under the direction of Americans, Senor Devoto having had charge of the one at La Plata, only during an interim. Before bidding farewell to the University, I wish to mention the gymnasium, a tasteful building in Gre- cian style, in the form of a temple, around which runs a Doric colonnade. On the grounds you will, also, find a field for ball games, and a swimming pool. The system of co-education exists at the university of La Plata, and a certain number of ladies follow the courses, and take degrees. Undoubtedly the institution serves greatly to ad- vance the cause of science in the Kepublic, but I doubt whether it will advance the cause of religion. Our universities of today, unlike those of the Middle Ages, have a tendency to ignore revealed religion, if they are not absolutely hostile to it. However, at La Plata, as elsewhere, much depends on the men at the head, and on the teaching corps. The city of La Plata was erected into a diocese in 1897, when it was separated from Buenos Aires. The Education in Argentina 163 first bishop was Monsignor Espinosa, at present arch- bishop of Buenos Aires, and the present incumbent of the see is Dr. Juan Nepomuceno Terrero, whom I shall always remember, on account of his gentle manners, and his exquisite politeness. The province of Buenos Aires is the most populous, and the most important of the whole country, for which it is, naturally, the railroad centre, with nearly 6.000 miles of railroad. The northeastern section, as far as Rosario in the north, and for some distance westward, toward Cordoba, is dotted with railroad sta- tions, and villages; but the southern portion of the province is comparatively uninhabited, except along the railroads. The cities of greatest importance are Buenos Aires, La Plata, and Bahia Blanca in the extreme south, with its seaport. Argentina also possesses a number of agricultural colleges, and various other special institutes. It is striking, that in a country where the great majority of the people profess, nominally at least, one faith, religion should be excluded from the curriculum of education, and yet such is the case in the public schools of Argentina, although the clergyman, with his catechism, is tolerated after school hours. If the Catholic Church in the Argentine Republic wishes to prevent its children from growing up in religious ignorance, the parochial school system will have to increase. To its credit it must be said, that Catholic education is widespread, and that serious efforts are made to increase the education facilities for the poor. The number of colleges and schools for both sexes, in charge of religious orders, or of other Catholic teachers in the capital, as well as in the provinces, is too great for me to count them. The Jesuits, Christian Brothers, Salesian Fathers, Fran- 164 Lands of the Southern Cross ciscans, Dominicans, Fathers of the Divine Word, Ladies of the Sacred Heart, Sisters of the Sainte Union des Sacr^s Coeurs, Sisters of Mercy, and others conduct educational work throughout the country. There are three parochial schools for boys, and one for girls in the city of Buenos Aires, but this is far from being the extent of Catholic instruction which is given gratuitously, a number of free schools being connected with other colleges, or carried on independently. Be- sides the many orphan asylums for both sexes, there are, at least, twelve gratuitous schools for boys, and thirteen for girls in the city; while it is likely that a considerable number of schools, mentioned in the Ec- clesiastical Directory of Buenos Aires as Colegios, also afford free instruction. In the provinces, there are about twenty-one paroch- ial schools, besides others, in which instruction is given gratuitously. There is no doubt, that the Church is working hard in the right direction, but the needs of an ever increasing population are great, and it is not an easy task to supply them. The societies of workingmen, the Circulos de Ohreros, to which I re- ferred in a preceding chapter, give great promise in this regard. One of their ends is to establish schools, and, at the present time, they are supporting at least seventeen in different parts of the country. Outside of the seminaries, the work of higher edu- cation is still in its infancy; but it will, surely, in- crease. A Catholic university has been established in Buenos Aires, with a faculty of law and social science, under the direction of Monsignor Luis Duprat, which will, no doubt, become a nucleus of greater things for the future. Protestants, too, are more or less active in the work of education. A Protestant minister, the Rev- Education in Argentina 165 erend C. Morris, has established a number of private schools, especially among the poor, with teachers brought from Spain. Last year he is said to have had 3,000 children in his schools, nine-tenths being Catholics, at least nominally. Once a week, he dis- tributes gifts to the parents. The government helps his work, by giving him |3,000 dollars (silver) a month. Besides, he collects among the banks, and rail- road companies, and elsewhere. He is said to have thus gathered about seventy thousand dollars. I ad- mire his zeal; it would be well to follow his example. As far as the numbers of his children, and the amount and source of his collections are concerned I have this merely on the authority of others; but it is a known fact that he carries on schools, the Escuelas Evangelicas Argentinas, for boys at 1810, Guemes, and 1830, Nicaragua streets, and, for girls, at 1830, Guemes. It is, also, known that his schools are supported by contributions.* 2 Almanaque del Mensajero, p. 195. Chapter XII. FKOM BUENOS AIRES TO SANTIAGO. Choice of Route — Paraguay — Overland Route to Bolivia — Pur- chasing a Ticket — The Old Coach Journey— Discomforts— The Pampas — Line of the Railroad — Mercedes— Chacabuco — Mendoza — Transferring to the Narrow-Gauge Road — Sunrise on the Andes — The Ascent — Puente del Inca — Acon- cagua — Mountain Sickness — Las Cuevas — The Christ of the Andes — The Tunnel — Old Method of Crossing the "Cum- bre" — The Descent — "The Soldier's Leap." — Los Andes — Santiago. The time had now arrived to bid farewell to Buenos Aires, and proceed on my journey to the lands of South America on the Pacific coast. I had two routes to choose from, the one lasting about ten days, around the continent through the Straits of Magellan, and the other across the continent by railroad. For the former, I might proceed to Montevideo, and take one of the transatlantic steamers of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company which go through the straits, and up the coast, as far as Callao, or I might engage passage by a German steamer of the Kosmos Line. By this route, I would have an oppor- tunity of beholding the magnificent scenery of the Straits of Magellan, and, should I take the Pacific Steam Navigation Company, of making a stop at the very interesting Falkland Islands. But the voyage is long, and, to some extent, rough. Besides, at this season of the year, it is very cold in the regions of the straits. For these, and other reasons, I decided to travel by rail. Had I come last year in winter, I 166 From Buenos Aires to Santiago 167 would probably have been obliged to go via the straits, for the Trans Andean route was generally closed from May to October. Now, however, the new tunnel facil- itates the transit of the Andes. The president of Chile, delegates from the West Coast, and the Chilean cadets had recently passed through it, therefore I had no reason to hesitate. There was one country of South America on the East Coast, I should have wished to see, but my time would not permit it. I refer to Paraguay. The Kepublic of Paraguay lies directly north of Argentina, and south of Brazil, between the Paraguay and Parand rivers, the smaller portion being in the tropical, and the larger in the temperate zone. This country, with one of the finest climates in South America is, probably, less known than any other, and yet it has immense wealth which needs only to be developed. It received a terrible setback in the war which, from 1864 to 1870, was waged against it by the combined forces of Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay, in which about half a million people perished. Since then, it has been slowly recovering, with cattle raising as the prin- cipal industry. Paraguay has no seaport, and must ship its produce down the river to Buenos Aires, or Montevideo. To go to Paraguay, I would have had to take a steamer to Asuncion, the capital, a jouimey which would have consumed at least four days. A portion of the journey, however, can be made by rail, as two Argentine railways reach almost to the frontiers, the one, on the right bank of the river Parand, termina- ting at Kesistencia, in the territory of Chaco, and the other, on the left bank, at Corrientes. It will, prob- ably, not be very long before the Paraguayan railroad, now running from Asuncion to Pirapo will be extend- 168 Lands of the Southern Cross ed to the river, opposite Posadas, on Argentine terri- tory, which will, sooner or later, be connected with the line, now terminating at Concepcion. It will then be possible to go from Buenos Aires to Asuncion by rail. A student of history is amply repaid for a journey to Paraguay by the ruins of the old Jesuit missions, scattered over the country. During my stay in Argen- tina, the Spanish Jesuit Father, Astrain, had just gone up there, in the interest of a history of the Soci- ety for which he is gathering material. The ethnolo- gist, and philologist will also find much room for study in the Indian population, still quite numerous. The Falls of Iguazu, on the river of that name, between the Argentine territory of Misiones and Brazil, are said to rival those of Niagara, but they are of difficult access. The Iguazu is a tributary of the Upper Parand, and the nearest railroad ends at Con- cepcion, about 150 miles south. Owing to my limited program, extended enough as it was, I found myself obliged to sacrifice the advan- tages to be derived, artistically, as well as scientific- ally, from a visit to Paraguay and northeastern Ar- gentina. It is true, I had a splendid opportunity of becoming better acquainted with the northwestern portion of the Kepublic, but I should have been obliged to sacrifice Chile, which I could not bring myself to do, as Santiago was of too great importance for my studies in literature. Several of my fellow Americanists availed them- selves of the opportunity, to perform this difficult journey through Argentina to Bolivia which had been organized especially for the members of our Congress, with the joint co-operation of the two countries, both giving free transportation on the railroads in their From Buenos Aires to Santiago 169 territory, over which they had control. The route lay along the Central Argentine railroad from Buenos Aires to Cordoba, thence by narrow guage, via Tucu- man, to Jujuy, and the confines of Bolivia. Hence a long journey of a week or more was to be made by coach, with the poorest of accommodations, until the Antof agasta and Bolivia railway was reached at Oruro in the Cordilleras, at an altitude of over 12,000 feet. From Oruro, you go by rail to La Paz, the capital of Bolivia, and thence by steam and electric railway to Guaqui on Lake Titicaca. I felt that, besides the time consumed, the journey would have been too arduous, especially as I expected to reach La Paz from the Pacific, an expectation, in which, as we shall see, I was disappointed. The ad- vantage of the expedition consisted mainly in the fact, that it afforded a splendid opportunity to become acquainted with the Indians of the interior of Bolivia and Peru, and to study the Inca, and Pre-Inca ruins of both countries. However, I consoled myself with the expectation of contemplating the magnificent scenery of the Andes, between Argentina and Chile, and of making an his- torical and literary study of Santiago. On deciding as to my route, I set about obtaining information. It took me a whole afternoon to find out where I might purchase a ticket. On being told, that there was an agency on the Plaza de Mayo, I sought for it in vain. Then, by direction, I went to the station on the Plaza Once of the Western railroad, only to be sent further on. Finally, on arriving at the Retiro station, I concluded that I was right, but soon discovered, that though this was really the ter- minal of the Pacific railway, they did not sell tickets to Chile which, I was informed, were to be purchased 170 Lands of the Southern Cross at the Villalonga Express, the offices of which are located in the vicinity of the Plazo de Mayo, on the Balcarce street. I had had my labor in vain, and a long tramway journey which, however, served to extend my knowledge of the city. At a department of the Villalonga, the great express company of Buenos Aires, which has charge of the Trans-Andean route, I purchased a first-class ticket directly for Santiago, for thirteen pounds and a half, or $67.50 which includes the sleeping berth, but not meals. This is a good deal for a journey of only thirty-six hours, or a little more than 892 miles, but then, we must remember that railroads in South Amer- ica are comparatively new, and that traffic is small. The English sovereign in South America, I may re- mark in passing, is generally worth five dollars of our money. Long distance trains in Argentina do not always run every day, and for Chile, you can obtain one, only three times a week, on Sundays, Tuesdays, and Thurs- days. As far as baggage is concerned, you may take into the cars only small hand baggage; the rest must be registered, though fifty kilos are transported free. The check system prevailing with us does not exist anywhere, as far as I know. All the preliminaries being arranged, I parted from my good friends, the Passionists, and boarded my train at the Retiro station, to leave for the west, at 8.20 a. m. of June the seventh. This schedule was announced to continue, until the end of June, after which it would depend on circumstances, namely the amount of snow on the mountains. At all events, I was fortunate. From Buenos Aires to Santiago 171 The journey from Buenos Aires to Chile is indeed paradise, compared to what the coach voyage must have been in the oldenr times, for instance when Mon- signor Mastai Ferretti, the future Pius IX., performed it, early in the last century. Yet, for one accustomed to railroad travel in the United States, it is not with- out its discomforts. First, it was cold, with that damp, raw, penetrating cold, that eats into the mar- row of your bones, and chills your blood, colder on the plains, than on the mountains where the air was more dry. During the day, in the sunshine, the tem- perature was not disagreeable, but, in the morning, and at night, it gave one unaccustomed to it no rest. To make matters worse, there was no way of getting warm, for the cars were not heated. All you could do was to wrap yourself up in a blanket, be philoso- phical about it, and forget that your feet were freez- ing. There was little means of raising your tempera- ture by moving about, for, in the narrow corridor, you were sure, every now and then, to come into collision with some tmfortunate pedestrian, trying, like your- self, to get warm, or passing from one part of the train to the other. Your sitting room was your little stateroom, unless you wanted to pass over to the din- ing car, which was used all day as the common loung- ing room, where you might eat, drink, chat, and smoke as you liked. As far as smoking is concerned, there were no restrictions, you could smoke anywhere. The dining room, when it had been occupied for several hours, as you may imagine, stood in great need of a thorough cleaning up, for it was not precisely like a North Holland drawing room. Further, the train was crowded with passengers, many of whom were return- ing from the Argentine festivities. Some few were English or Americans. 172 Lands of the Southern Cross It was in these surroundings, that we spent nearly twenty-four hours, leaving Buenos Aires at 8.20 a. m., and arriving at Mendoza the following morning at 6.15. I need not say, that the night was a restless, shivering one, but, like all nights, it passed away, to usher in a morning, no less cold. Add to the discom- fort of the cold, that of the dust. It was a fine, all penetrating dust, that dust of the pampas, which, piercing the crevices, covered you all over, as well as everything else in the train, so subtle that you could not see it in its action, yet most obvious in its results. Before I leave the stateroom, I wish to draw your attention to the fact, that the berths are not fixed, but movable, as in our Pullmans, so that the lower berth serves as a seat, during the day. The little compartment is much like the staterooms on our Pull- mans. For the present, we may as well forget our discom- forts, and direct our attention to the country. Until the Andes come into view, as you approach Mendoza, there is no scenery. All that you will see during the day can be summed up in a few words: boundless pampas melting away towar d the horizon ; an occasional pond or stream ; here and there a solitary house ; a few towns; some railway stations; great herds of cattle, left to wander free over the estates; troops of long- legged ostriches; multitudes of rabbits, sporting with the cattle; and some carcasses left to the birds of prey. Traveling from east to west, until you reach the eastern slopes of the Andes, you will find Argentina an immense plain ; but, from Tucuman, where the eleva- tions rise to an altitude of 15,000 feet, southward, you pass through an undulating region of mountains, From Buenos Aires to Santiago 173 and valleys. On the present journey, however, you will enjoy no view of anything like mountains, for, during the day, the train crosses the pampas. It is better thus, as the passage of the CordiTTeras is reserved for daylight. It is these immense plains that offer a home to the immigrant who may make a fortune, if He have cour- age enough to overcome the loneliness of the pampas. The wealth of the plains lies principally in their great herds of cattle; they are the regions of the gauchos, the Argentine cowboys. Ostriches become quite num- erous a few hours after leaving Buenos Aires, and, as to the rabbits, they are a plague of the country. The line of the Ferro Carril del PacificOj the Pacific Kail way, runs west, with a slight tendency toward the north, until it reaches Mendoza. Crossing the entire provinces of Buenos Aires, Cordoba, San Luis, and Mendoza, it passes about eighty stations along the line, one of them, somewhat more than half way to Mendoza, bearing the name of Washington. The railway does not approach nearer to the city of Cordoba, which lies directly north, than about 140 miles. In course of time, this whole country will be built up, as the prairie regions of the United States have been, with the railroad stations becoming towns, and cities. At present, the most important towns one passes on this road with populations ranging from four to ten thousand or more, are Mercedes, Chaca- buco, Junin, Castellanos, and La Paz. Mercedes lies about sixty miles west of Buenos Aires, with a population which, in 1895, was over five thousand, but which must have greatly increased since then. One of the older towns of the Kepublic, the parish having been established in 1825, it belongs to the diocese of La Plata, with a parish church, and 174 Lands of the Southern Cross a number of chapels, several colleges, a hospital, and an asylum. Among the public chapels, we find one, dedicated to St. Patrick, with the Rev. Thomas O'Grady in charge. The Palottini Fathers are espec- ially active in Mercedes. Chacabuco, smaller than Mercedes and of much more recent growth, lies further west, also in the province of Buenos Aires. Junin, in the same pro- vince, still further to the west, is somewhat larger than Chacabuco, and comparatively modern. Castellanos seems to be a growing town, in the region of the pampas. At Justo Daract, the line separates into two divisions, the older and more circuitous one passing through the city of San Luis, and the shorter route on the south, through La Paz. A short distance, west of La Paz, the lines unite again, to continue on to Men- doza. La Paz, with a population of over five thousand, is situated in the province of Mendoza. You pass Mercedes, Chacabuco, and Junin during the day, but Justo Daract, the junction, is not reached, until nine at night, and La Paz, not until three in the morning. You arrive at Mendoza about three hours later. This city, with a population of between twenty-five and thirty thousand, is the capital of the province of the same name which was given to it in memory of Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendoza, Marquis of Canete, one of the earlier viceroys of Peru who commanded the expedition against the Araucanians of Chile, in which took part the soldier-poet, Ercilla y Zuniga, author of La Araucana. Mendoza is a little more than 713 miles from Buenos Aires. This province is the principal wine growing district in Argentina and, in fact, in America. Lying at the From Buenos Aires to Santiago 175 foot of the Cordillera chain, which, with its snow- crowned peaks, forms a picturesque background, Men- doza enjojs a cloudless sky and a dry atmosphere. It possesses several health resorts, where medicinal baths may be had, such as at Cacheuta, in the depart- ment of Lujan, Villavicencio, department of Las Her- as, Los Molles, in San Rafael, and Puente del Inca, Lujan, which we shall pass, as we ascend the moun- tain. The province possesses, too, some oil wells, and, also, coal which may be worked in course of time. The railway by which we have traveled, beginning at Buenos Aires, and culminating at Mendoza, was completed in 1886, thus uniting the capital with the western limits of the Republic, and with one of its most important cities. Mendoza is older than Buenos Aires, the mother church of the parish dating from 1561. Besides this one, the city possesses churches of the Franciscans, Jesuits, and others, two colleges, a hospital, a penitentiary and several fine school build- ings. It belongs to the diocese of San Juan. At Mendoza, nearly 2,471 feet above the sea, the traveler who is to cross the Cordillera, changes from the Pacific broad-gauge, to the Argentine Transand- ean which is a narrow-guage. You have three quar- ters of an hour, and you may take your coffee at the station or, if you prefer, wait until the train starts, and sip it in the little dining car. It was cold and dark, when I made the exchange, walking some distance from one train to the other with my heavy bags; but I was no worse off than the others, laden down as they were with valises, satchels, boxes, and baggage of all description. No one seemed to bother about the regulation, forbidding all but small hand baggage in the passenger coaches, and, in a cor- ner of our car, luggage was piled up, almost to the 176 Lands of the Southern Cross ceiling, mine having had the misfortune of getting in at the bottom. Seats were at a premium, the number of passengers being so large. You may thus imagine the discomfort of this mountain journey. Ahead of us, went a second-class coach with three or four pas- sengers, including a priest, although priests in Argen- tina generally travel first class. Then followed the dining car which might also be used as a sitting room, if a seat could be obtained. Behind the diner, came our car, with a kind of observation compart- ment, and a diminutive platform at the rear. As far as comfort went, the second-class coach, having so few passengers, was, surely, more comfortable than ours. The little; metal platforms between the coach and the dining car were hardly more than a foot and a half in width, and it required a certain amount of skill to spring from one to the other, as with the movement of the train, they were playing "hide and seek" with each other, while we toiled up the mountain. When the day began to break, we caught our first view of the Cordilleras, with the long snow line above them, though little fresh snow had fallen. There are few things so beautiful, as the effect of the increasing morning light, upon the snow-capped mountains. Years ago, I looked out of the windows at the Rigi- Kulm on the summit of Mount Rigi, at the light, as it came creeping down the mountain sides, coloring the snow with the purple and pink of the morning. First, the peaks were gently tipped with gold, then the day descended slowly, until a long straight line divided it from the receding shades of the dawn. And here arose before me a mountain chain, far wilder, far more colossal, than the Alps, and again I saw the day break upon the heights, the snow pur- pled with the light of dawn, the peaks tipped with SCENE ON THE TRANSANpiNE RAUvWAY From Buenos Aires to Santiago 177 gold, and the day descend to chase back the darkness into the precipices between the rocks. Such pictures are never forgotten, they rest and refresh the mind, wearied with the moving pictures of modern activity. At seven o'clock, we began the ascent, leaving the picturesque old town of Mendoza with civilization be- hind us, to plunge into the mountain wilderness of the Argentino-Chilean Cordillera. At first you ob- serve a scant vegetation, then only tufts of mountain grass, scattered here and there, and, finally, nothing but rock, lifeless rock, above, around, below you. All seems dead. No animal may start from the clefts, as your train puffs its painful way through the pass, no bird may circle through the air, even insects appear to be absent. The condor makes its home here; but condors are rare. Yet there is much animal life in the Cordillera, if one knows how to look for it, and the hunter and naturalist are repaid for their trouble. No towns, no villages exist on these inhospitable mountains. Only the oven-shaped little houses which once served for shelter against the mountain storms, in the days of foot travel, and which still serve, with the isolated railway stations, and scattered settle- ments, tell you that men pass this way. It is said, that no lone traveler could ever cross the Cordilleras, as they are infested with robbers; hence foot travelers between Argentina and Chile, if they cannot afford to take the train, generally go in groups. The railroad follows the old mountain pass which you see winding its way up, at some distance off, and which is said to date from the time of the Incas, those old mountaineers of the Peruvian uplands who ex- tended their dominion, and their influence over these regions as well. 178 Lands of the Southern Cross Shortly after leaving Mendoza, with the white peaks towering to the right, and in front of you, your train crosses the Mendoza river which comes pouring down from the summit of the mountains, and flowing to the north, unites with the river system that finally loses itself in the great Saline Lake in the territory of La Pampa to the south. About fifteen kilometers further on, you pass through a tunnel, and reach your first station at the Baths of Cacheuta, at an altitude of 1,200 metres. These thermal baths are used principally for rheumatism, and certain forms of uter- ine disease. Between Cacheuta and San Ignacio, you go through another tunnel, and, after leaving the latter station, cross the little Eio Blanco, an affluent of the Mendoza which must not be confounded with two others of the same name that you will meet further up the mountain, the one on the Argentine, and the other on the Chilean side. From now on, you will pass through several tunnels, before arriving at the highest point of your journey. Your next stations will be La Invernada, and Uspal- lata. At the latter, the railway, following the course of the Mendoza river, makes a great curve, and strik- ing the old highway from Mendoza to Chile, deflects to the southwest, until Punta de Vacas, at an alti- tude of 2,350 metres is reached, when it turns to the west. At Uspallata, you are directly north of the Cerro del Plata which rises to a height of nearly 14,- 000 feet. Before ariving at Punta de Vacas, the train crosses the second Kio Blanco, and the Zanjon Amar- illo, both of which flow into the Mendoza. Here the ascent becomes more steep, and the system of cogs between the tracks begins which will continue, until you reach the great tunnel, to be resumed on the other side, and to last far down the deep descent on Chilean From Buenos Aires to Santiago 179 territory. To your right, on the other side of the river, the old mountain road continues to ascend, sometimes making a curve, or, again, to avoid a steep grade, zigzagging in a series of V-shaped angles. The telegraph lines, crossing the mountains, fixed to slend- er iron rods, accompany you on your way, but there is no telephone yet between Argentina and Chile. At Punta de Vacas, the volcano Tupungato is seen on your left, to the southwest. It is one of the high- est peaks of the Cordilleras, with an altitude of 22,- 000 feet. You are now at a height of nearly 7,800 feet; but you have to rise mucJi higher, before you reach the tunnel. On the left hand you will, also, observe, if you are attentive, some time after leaving Punta de Vacas, the interesting group of rocks, known as Los Pent- tentes. The principal pile resembles an old cathe- dral, and the smaller rocks look like dark-robed fig- ures, advancing toward the church, on their knees. One of the many legends of the Andes is connected with these rocks, and, from it, their name is derived. According to the legend, the "Penitentes" are mem- bers of a degenerate community who, repenting too late of their misdeeds, and pleading, in vain, for mercy, were turned into stone. Your next point of interest is Puente del Inca, at an altitude of over 8,800 feet. If your train is on time, leaving Mendoza at seven, you should arrive at Puente del Inca at thirty-five minutes after one. There is very little snow in the mountains now, except above the perpetual snow line, but, a few weeks later, the train was snow-bound for a considerable time, to the great inconvenience of the passengers who, as food had given out, were condemned to a long fast of twenty-four hours. Fortunately, the 180 Lands of the Southern Cross train had managed to reach Puente del Inca, where the hotel was opened for sleeping accommodations for which no provision is made on the little narrow- gauge road. Against such accidents, it is not always possible to provide, even with the large si^ow ploughs that the company employs, to keep the road open. Although there was little snow, when we crossed, it was freezing, but, as the sun was shining brightly, and the air was dry^ I did not feel the cold, as much as I had done, on the pampas. At this altitude, the climate is very fine in summer, and Puente del Inca, possessing very famous thermal baths, is quite a pop- ular summer resort. The long, low hotel may be com- fortable enough for all I know, but there is very little splendor about the place, to indicate anything like a resort of fashion. There are three baths, designated ''Venus,'' ''Mercury, or Hornita," and "Champagne," the last being the strongest. A Brazillian traveler, visiting the spot in 1900, speaks thus of them: "I went from the snow into the bath "Venus," the most moderate of these baths, in spite of the high temperature of nearly 30° Centigrade, receiving sev- eral shocks, as the water bubbles out in colossal pro- portions. The odor is very disagreeable, owing to the existence in it of sulphuric acid in no small quantity. . . ." "As for 'Champagne,' it is enough to approach the bath, to feel as though you were being asphyxiated." The Puente del Inca, or Inca Bridge, is a natural bridge of rock, formed by the impetuous waters of the Rio Mendoza which pouring down the mountain side have made an excavation, leaving the rock above to form a bridge, at a height of more than sixty-five feet. 1 Viagens pelo Interior da Republica Argentina. Dr. Anto- nio Carlos Simoens da Silva, p. 21. ACONCAGUA From Buenos Aires to Santiago 181 From a number of stalactites the wal;er oozes drop by drop, and the baths situated beneath the bridge, face the river bank. Here the train crosses the river for the last time, before arriving at Las Cuevas. Since leaving Mendoza, it has followed its course in an opposite direction, crossing it about eleven times. There is a rock in the mountains, somewhere in this vicinity, known as "Inca Stone," and tradition has it, that the Incas were wont to bring their sick to this place to take the baths. A little beyond Puente del Inca, you catch sight, on your right, of Aconcagua, more than eighteen miles away from you, the highest peak in the Andes, rais- ing its snow-crowned summit to a height of 23,000 feet. Three travelers. Sir Martin Conway, Mr. Ranfin, and Mr. Fitzgerald, have made the ascent of Acon- cagua. By this time, if you are at all susceptible, you may have begun to experience a little of the moun- tain sickness, by accelerated breathing, heart palpita- tion, and a certain lassitude, rendering exercise, more or less, difficult. However, I do not believe, that on this pass, the soroche, or mountain sickness, is ever experienced to such a degree, as in the higher altitudes of Peru and Bolivia, where it is apt to be accompan- ied by violent headache, vomiting, nose and ear bleed- ing, and, where, in the case of a weak heart, it may prove fatal. On the coast of Peru, a traveler who had just come down from Lake Titicaca told me of a lady who, hastening to the lowlands to put an end to the mountain sickness from which she had been suffering, fell dead, as she reached the steamer on the lake. Even here, the climate is very trying to one not accus- tomed to it, for at the altitude of Las Cuevas it is 182 Lands of the Southern Cross cold all the year round. One of my fellow travelers, Mr. George Kaldager, who had, for some time, been station agent at Las Cuevas, was so broken in health, that it became necessary to remove him, and put a native in his place. Add to the climate, and the rarity of the air, the unbroken solitude, and unvary- ing monotony of the place, and you will form some idea of the dreary existence that, one leads there. In the winter months, the cold is intense, with severe frost, of which the water pump is a constant reminder, as it is a pillar of ice. Las Cuevas, the last station in Argentina, is at an altitude of over 10,300 feet. We were due there at forty minutes past two, but we did not arrive till about four o'clock. Formerly, at Las Cuevas, passengers for Chile were obliged to take mules and coaches, to cross the Cumhre^ or high- est point of the pass which, in a zigzag line, winds up the heights. The coach road extends from Las Cuevas to Caracoles, where the Chilean train was taken for the descent of the mountain. The highest point of the Cumhre is 14,500 feet. The dividing line between Chile and Argentina crosses the Cumbre, and here stands a large statue of Christ, the "Prince of Peace," erected by the initiative of South American ladies, as the emblem, and a guarantee of peace between the two countries. It was inaugurated in 1903. Unfortunately, it can- not be seen from the train, and to obtain a view of it, you must ascend the Cumhre. At the time the statue was erected, the question regarding the point of the compass toward which it should face threat- ened to bring about an unpleasant complication, not at all in keeping with the character of the statue. Should it face east or west, its back would have been turned either to Chile, or to Argentina, and neither country would agree to this. The matter was, there- From Buenos Aires to Santiago 183 fore, compromised, by having the statue face the north.2 Let us hope, that, looking toward the north- ern republics, it may be for them an incentive to peace, as well as to the Argentine Kepublic, and Chile. Mr. William Jennings Bryan, whose lecture on the ^'Prince of Peace" is famous, was one of the last of the travelers from Chile to Argentina, to cross in the old-fashioned way, as the tunnel has been opened since. A photograph of his group was taken at the highest point. Mr. D. H. McMillen, the American in charge of the mule transport over the Cumbre, who had taken Mr. Bryan across, was my fellow passenger on the Oravia, from Valparaiso to Callao. He was returning home, as his business was at an end. At Las Cuevas, you now change for the Chilean narrow-gauge road, Transandino ChilenOy which, to a large extent, if not entirely, is operated by American capital, under American management. Here, too, the standard time changes, Chilean time being forty-four minutes behind that of Argentina. The official time of Chile has recently been set exactly five hours behind Greenwich time. The famous tunnel through which you now pass is nearly two miles long. The railroad from Santiago was built in 1874, as far as Los Andes, where the Chilean-Transandine road begins which, as late as 1906, did not proceed further than Kio Blanco, where it was met by the mule train, coming down from the Cumbre; then it was extended to Juncal, and, finally, to Caracoles. When Kio Blanco was the terminus, the traveler from Chile went by wagon to Juncal, where in one of two fairly good hotels, he might rest a few hours. Between three and four in the morning, he took the mule train across the Cumbre, arriving at 2 Whright, Republic of Chile, p. 303. 184 Lands of the Southern Cross Las Cuevas at seven, to take the train for Mendoza. It is difficult to cross the Cumbre, after ten in the morning, owing to the strong winds that prevail.^ In the days, about 1903, when Salto del Soldado in Chile was the terminus of the road, connecting with those from Santiago or Valparaiso, it took nearly 58 hours, or three days and two nights, to make the trip to Buenos Aires, for which, at present, only one night and two days are required. There has been, thus, a steady improvement. It is a pity, that the Transandean gauges differ from the others in Argen- tina, and Chile, requiring three changes between Buenos Aires and Santiago, but, to alter the gauge now, would entail very great expense that would prac- tically amount to the construction of a new railroad. At Caracoles, the first station in Chile, after leav- ing the tunnel, you are about 12,400 feet high, but here the splendid descent begins. If the scenery on the Argentine side was grand, here, as you go down, it is awe inspiring, bewildering, tremendous. Sharp, needle-like peaks tower above you, dizzy ravines yawn beneath you, and your diminutive train goes rolling down the mountain along the edge of formidable pre- cipices. As you gaze into the depths, you behold the slender lines of railway, over which you are destined to pass in your descent, hundreds of feet beneath you. The cogs will continue to support your train, until you reach Salto del Soldado. At Caracoles, you meet with the Aconcagua river, which you will follow for a long distance down the mountain, along which it flows to pour ultimately its waters into the Pacific Ocean. After leaving Cara- coles, the railway will depart from the mountain high- way, making an oval curve to the north, toward the 3 Chile ; G. F. Scott Elliott, New York, 1907, pp. 317, 318 STONE REFUGE HOUSE, IN THE ANDES From Buenos Aires to Santiago 185 Lake of the Inca which lies northwest of Caracoles. Eecrossing the Aconcagua, the road makes a long detour to the south at Juncal station, returning to the highway to continue its route to Balto del Soldado, past the stations of Glardia Yieja, and Rio Blanco. At the latter, you pass the river of that name which flows into the Aconcagua. As you descend the mountains, you will observe, here and there, small stone houses, built like an oven, with no opening but a door. These, known as casuchos, were used by foot travelers, especially the mail car- riers, in the days before the trains were running, as a place of shelter in a storm, or over night, and they are, probably, still employed for the purpose. They were built by the Irish Chileno, Ambrose O'Higgins who, from a very humble beginning, rose to be viceroy of Peru and whose son became the great patriot of the Independence. The route we have followed, by the pass of Uspal lata, and the Cumbre, is, I believe, approximately, the one taken by San Martin, when, after organizing his army in the province of Mendoza, he crossed the Cor- dillera to invade Chile in 1817, an invasion that cul- minated in the battle of Chacabuco, and the inde- pendence of the country. On this side of the mountains, though, from a dis- tance, the rocks appear to be as barren, as on the other, there is some scattered vegetation, from the summit of the Cumbre down, with a large number of beautiful and rare plants that would repay the labors of the botanist. One of the places we pass, on the descent, is Salto del Soldado, the "Soldier's Leap." Here is a perpen- dicular cleft through the mountain, into which the 4 Chile ; Scott Elliott, pp. 320-21. 186 Lands of the Southern Cross Aconcagua river has forced its way down to the sea. It has its name from the tradition, that, during the war of independence, a patriot soldier, bearing im- portant despatches, leaped his horse across the chasm, at the imminent risk of his life, rather than fall into the hands of the pursuing Spaniards. After leaving Salto del Soldado, the train passes a couple of more small stations, and, finally, arrives at Santa Rosa de los Andes, where the last change is made. Here you take the Chilean state railway, a broad gauge, either for Santiago, or for Valparaiso. Should you desire to break the journey, you may spend the night at Los Andes, leaving your train at the first station. You will here find a comfortable, and quite up-to-date hotel, where you may rest from the fatigu- ing journey, to continue on to Santiago the next morning. Los Andes is somewhat more than 2,700 feet above sea level, or about 856 feet higher than Santiago. The town is litle more than a hundred years old, and the parish which exists since 1660 had first its seat in the old town of Curimon, about ten kilometers further west on the line to Valparaiso. It has three churches, and several chapels, a hospital, an asylum, and a convent of Discalced Carmelite nuns. Should you wish to continue your journey to San- tiago the same night, you may have some time to wait, and you will be able to find a good meal at the sec- ond railroad station. Our train was due at Los Andes at 5.15, but it was much later, and quite dark, when we arrived. On leaving Los Andes, you may take a train directly to Valparaiso, or to Santiago. Both trains follow the same track for a distance of about thirty kilometers, as far as Llai Llai, where the Santiago train turns SALTO DEL SOLDADO^ THE SOLDIER S LEAP_, IN THE CORDILLERA From Buenos Aires to Santiago 187 to the south. On the way you pass the station of Curimon, and, further on, the town of San Felipe. Between Llai Llai and Santiago, you pass a number of small stations, and, if your train is on time, you arrive in the capital of Chile at half past nine. Ours did not get there, until eleven, on the night of June 8. Taking a carriage, I drove to the Hotel Oddo, one of the best, if not the best in Santiago. The rates here are 12 pesos a day, for your room, breakfast, and dinner. The Chilean is worth little more than half an Argentine peso, and 12 Chilean pesos amount to about 12.90 American money. Your coffee in the early morning will cost you sixty cents (Chilean) extra. As the hour was far advanced, and the night cold, I retired to rest. Before we begin to study the city of Santiago tomorrow, we shall first take a bird's eye view of Chile, past and present. Chapter XIII. CHILE. Geography and Climate — Minerals — Forests — Agriculture — Stockraising — Industries — Aboriginal Population — ^History — Population — Transportation — Government — Army and Navy — Cities — Punta Arenas — Valdivia — Coronel — Concep- cion — Chilian — Talca. The Republic of Chile, according to its present dimensions, stretches from Cape Horn to 70° 57' latitude^ south, occupying the western slopes of the Andes. Its coast line from north to south is of 2,625 miles, while its wid^t portion, which extends along the tropic of Capricorn, west of Antofagasta, and south of the great Bolivian plateau, does not exceed three hundred miles, its average width being ninety miles. In fact, some portions of the coast, below the fortieth parallel, are hardly forty miles from the Argentine border. The entire country is mountainous, a double chain of the Cordilleras running through the whole length of the land. The eastern, and highest range, that of the Andes proper, begins in the southern portion of Tierra del Fuego, and, with a strong bend, stretches northward, until, between the 25th and 30th parallels, it curves strongly to the east to form the great plateau of Bolivia. The western range, beginning in the islands to the south of Chile, follows the coast, extending northward to Peru. Between these mountain ranges, lies the great valley of Chile. 188 Chile 189 The climate is extremely varied, owing to differ- ences of altitude, as well as of latitude. On the ex- treme south of the west coast, from Tierra del Fuego, to the 40th parallel, strong winds are almost constant, with much rainfall, and torrential streams, flowing to the Pacific. As you proceed inland, the Patagonian desert becomes dry, while in the south, from the 50th parallel to the Straits, and the islands beyond, antarc- tic conditions prevail. The next variety of climate is found from 36° to about 29°, where it is quite moderate, being in winter agreeably warm during the day, and quite cool at night, as well as in the morning, and after sunset. Snow never falls north of 36° S. Lat., below an alti- tude of from 600 to 700 feet, while, further north, say at Santiago, which is at an altitude of about 1,800 feet, it is hardly known, except in the surrounding moun- tains. In summer, this climate is delightful, with a blue, cloudless sky, and a dry, transparent, and ex- hilarating atmosphere, with brief showers falling oc- casionally. Sometimes, however, there is a period of long continued drought, as, for instance, when I vis ited Santiago, it had not rained for eight months, until the eve of my departure. Further, there was no snow on the mountains, a fact that occasioned no lit- tle inconvenience to the city that depends on melted snow for its water supply. The cold, about the same as we might have in our latitude in November, was said by the inhabitants to be the severest they had experienced for many years. On the other hand, northern Chile, from about the 29th parallel, corresponding with the nitrate region, is a dry, waterless desert. The rainfall increases southward as you go from about 24° to below 40°, 190 Lands of the Southern Cross while there are periods of drought, lasting several years, between 24° to 27° S. Lat. The principal source of mineral wealth in Chile is to be found in her rich nitrate fields in the northern portion of the Eepublic, a considerable part of which formerly belonged to Peru. It is from these fields that the fertilizer known as nitrate of soda is pro- cured. Copper, gold, silver, and iron also exist, with a quantity of coal. The production of coal in 1909 amounted to 939,836 tons. This, however, is not suf- ficient for home consumption, and over 1,000,000 tons are imported annually. There are extensive coal fields in the province of Arauco, south of Coronel, which have not yet been worked. Lota, in the province of Concepcion, with a popu- lation of over fifteen thousand, is the centre of coal mining operations. The property where the principal mines are located was purchased by Don Matias Cousino, in 1852, and here the Cousino family made their fortune. Dona Isidora Goyenechea de Cousino, widow of Don Luis Cousino, was regarded as the rich- est woman in the world, her fortune being estimated at seventy millions. After her death in 1898, it was divided among her children.^ The Arauco company is another important coal min- ing association in the south, with several mines in operation. Chile has been a gold producing country from time immemorial, as mines were worked by the natives be- fore the arrival of the Spaniards. In the sixteenth century, from Valdivia's time, the production of gold was very great, until the war with the Araucanians came to interfere with it. About ten years ago, the 1 Whright ; The Republic of Chile, p. 318. Chile 191 old Madre de Dios mine of the early colonial period was reopened, and other mines are now worked. There is a prospect that gold mining will increase in Chile which is said to have been, at one time, the prin- cipal gold-producing country of the world.^ Silver is obtained from a number of mines scattered through the country, some of which were worked in the eighteenth century, while new ones have been dis- covered. Among the amalgamating and smelting works in which silver ore is handled, mention may be made of those of Playa Blanca, the property of the Huanchaca company of Bolivia, but leased and oper- ated by the firm of Guggenheim's Sons of New York. The production of copper has been more profitable than either that of gold or silver, and a number of mines are in operation. Iron and manganese mines are, also, worked, while petroleum and natural gas have been discovered about 500 miles from Valparaiso. The forest district of Chile covers the southern por- tion of the country, extending northward beyond the Bio-Bio river, but there are woods in the clefts of the mountains, all along the range, even north of Santiago. These, however, are fast disappearing, as so much is cut for firewood. In the sixteenth century, the forests of Chile were more extensive; and, unless something is done to prevent it, they will, sooner or later, vanish from the land. Forestry for some enter- prising investor might in course of time prove to be a profitable business. At the present time, the forests still furnish wood for various industrial purposes. The central and southern portions of the Republic are devoted to agriculture, and kindred pursuits, in which last year, there was a marked increase, while 2 Ibid, EL 332. 192 Lands of the Southern Cross the government irrigation system promises still fur- ther developments. Wheat is among the principal ag- ricultural products, Chilean wheat carrying the high- est quotations in the English market. Chile is, also, second on the list of the wine making countries of America, most of it being produced in the central districts, principally in the neighborhood of Santi- ago, although the region of the vine, extends from the province of Atacama in the north, to the country of Arauco. Stock raising is on the increase, affording a promis- ing field, especially in the territory of Magellan, with its 48,000,000 of acres. Immense flocks of sheep of from 60,000 to 90,000 head are kept here, and great fortunes are made. It has been calculated, that 450,- 000 cattle, 600,000 sheep, and 140,000 hogs are an- nually slaughtered. The exportation of frozen lamb carcasses was almost trebled from 1898 to 1899, and that of hides obtained, also, a remarkable increase. The industries of Chile are, principally, food sup- plies, leather and shoes, with cement and a beginning of steel works, besides metals, clothing, paper, and so forth. Cotton mills, cloth factories, breweries and ship building must, also, be enumerated among the industries of this flourishing Kepublic. The prehistoric races of Chile and their descendants are of varied types. In the far south, in Tierra del Fuego, we find the Yaghans, the least developed of the Indian races of America, living their precarious, and unstable life on such sea-food as they can gather. They dwell on the western coast of Tierra del Fuego in constantly decreasing numbers, there being at pres- ent hardly more than 200 of them left. The western portion of the straits, and the sounds and channels south of the mainland, are inhabited by Chile 193 the Alakaluffs, a fishing and hunting tribe, numbering about 800. They are noted for their short stature, and light color. Further to the north are the Chonos Indians, and Chiloe Islanders, probably all half-castes, and, more or less, civilized. To the Fuegians belong, also, the Onas. The principal inhabitants of the mainland were of the famous Araucanian race, the descendants of whom still live in the more southern portion of the Kepublic. There are about fifty thousand Araucanians left, but they are diminishing, alcohol being their greatest foe, more deadly than their old enemies, the Spaniards, and threatening them with extermination. The Araucan- ian is whiter than other American Indians, and the women are, often, beautiful. They are devoted to agriculture, and they make good farmers, though, im- bued, as they are, by the traditional aversion of the Indian to labor, the work is left to the women, or to hired hands. They are forbidden to sell their lands, owing to the many advantages taken of them by unscrupulous speculators. Sometime about the last quarter of the fifteenth century, the Inca, Tupac Yupanqui, invaded Chile, and conquered the country, as far south as the Maule river, where the Araucanians held their own, as they, afterward, held it for a long time against the Span- iards. After the conquest of Peru by Pizarro, Diego Al- magro crossed the Cordillera, and, like the Inca, ad- vanced as far as the river Maule, which flows near where Concepcion now stands, but he was forced to retreat. Some time later, in 1540, the Spaniards, under Pedro Valdivia, again entered the country. Ad- vancing down the valley, Valdivia halted in a beau- 194 Lands of the Southern Cross tiflil spot, and fortified an eminence in the centre, the present Cerro de Santa Lucia. Here he founded the city of Santiago. Valdivia being killed by the Arau- canians, a war of extermination broke out which haia been immortalized by an actor in it, the poet Ercilla y Zuniga in his "Araucana," and which has figured prominently in Spanish American literature. In vain did the Spaniards endeavor to crush the Araucanians, and, in 1640, they were forced to conclude a treaty with them, by which the Bio-Bio river was declared the boundary line between the Spanish, and the Indian territories.^ During the colonial period, forming part of the vice- royalty of Peru, the country was governed by a cap- tain-general, residing at Santiago. In 1810, Chile, taking part in the general insurrec- tionary movement, cast off the yoke of Spain, but the Spaniards again reconquered it, until, in 1818, they were defeated by San Martin. Since then, it has been advancing on the road to prosperity. According to the census of 1907, the population of Chile amounted to 3,249,279. The bulk of this pop- ulation is of Spanish descent, either pure or mixed. It is so easy to detect the strain of Indian blood in the people, that the lines can be clearly drawn be- tween the pure whites, and the half-breeds. Even the most casual observer cannot fail to notice the differ- ence between the ladies of the better classes, with their fine, white complexion, and the dark-skinned women of the people. Immigrants are comparatively few, and, in this regard, there is no comparison between Chile and Ar- » For the early history of Chile, see among other Chilean writers, "Seis Alios de la Historia de Chile," Creseente Erra- zuriz. Chile 195 gentina. Years ago, there was a considerable Germaa immigration to the southern part of the country, but this has greatly diminished. On the whole, however, immigration prospects seem to be brightening, with an increasing tide from Spain and Italy. The govern- ment, to encourage immigration, holds out many in- ducements. Transportation facilities are on the increase, for Chile is in possession of a railway system which, in a comparatively short time, will cover an area of 4,000 miles, about 2,500 of which will be owned and operated by the government. At the end of 1909, 2,244 miles were in operation. The railways from the coast to the interior are generally in the hands of private companies, while those running parallel to the coast, or connecting important cities with the rest of the country, are owned by the government. At present, you may travel by rail along the coast from a considerable distance south of Valdivia to La Serena, north of Valparaiso, while shorter roads lead from the principal seaports on the north to the in- terior. To these, as well as to the Antofagasta rail- way to Bolivia, I will refer on another occasion. The present constitution of Chile dates from 1833. O'Higgins had governed the country, as supreme Director, from 1817, until his abdication in 1823. Then followed a period of transition, during which several systems of government, with two constitu- tions, were tried and abandoned, until a fight broke out between liberals and conservatives, ending in the victory of the former, at the battle of Ochagavia, where an agreement was made which proved to be of short duration, as the liberals again resorted to arms. This time they lost, at the bloody battle of Lircai, which was fought on April 17, 1830. Diego Portales, minis- 196 Lands of the Southern Cross ter of the interior, of war, and of the navy, Ovalle being president, now becomes the prominent figure in Chilean affairs, though he resigned in 1831, retiring to Valparaiso. However, he did not lose interest in affairs of state, and the constitution which established the government upon a solid basis was largely due to his influence. According to its constitution, Chile has a single, non-federal, republican form of government. The president is chosen by electors, who are elected by direct vote. His office-period lasts five years, and he cannot serve two consecutive terms. The council of state consists of eleven members, directly respon- sible to Congress, to which body the six cabinet min- isters are, also, responsible. The ministries are of the Interior, Foreign Affairs, Justice and Public Instruc- tion, the - Treasury, War and the Navy, and Industry and Public Works. The Congress consists of a senate and chamber of deputies. The judiciary is made up of the Supreme Court at San- tiago, six courts of appeal, at Santiago, Valparaiso, Tacna, Serena, Talca, and Concepcion, and of several minor courts in the provinces and districts. There are twenty-three provinces, and one national terri- tory, divided into departments, districts, and municip- alities ; but the whole government is centralized at San- tiago. The army is made up of somewhat more than 17,- 000 men under arms, but the war strength of the Ke- public is estimated at about 150,000 men. A military academy and four military schools provide instruction for the service. The navy consists at present of three armored bat- tleships, five cruisers, four torpedo boats, seven tor- pedo-boat destroyers, and a number of auxiliary ves- Chile 197 sels, with a personnel of more than 6,000 men. Chile has, also, its naval academy, and other schools for marine education. Service is compulsory on all persons born in Chile, even though of foreign parentage. One year is spent with the colors, and the rest of the time, up to the age of forty-five, in the reserve. The principal cities of the Republic, beginning with the south, and following their latitude, are Punta Arenas, Puerto Montt, Valdivia, Coronel, Concepcion, Chilian, Talca, Santiago, Valparaiso, Serena, Coquim- bo, Copiapo, Taital, Antofagasta, Iquique, and Arica. The next chapter belongs entirely to Santiago, and, later on, as we travel along the coast, we shall de- vote our attention to the cities lying north, beginning with Valparaiso. A few words may be said here of those in the south. Punta Arenas, on the Straits of Magellan, is the most southern city in the world, 1,200 miles further south than Cape Town. Its population is 20,000, and it is the capital of the one territory in Chile, that of Magallanes, which comprises about one-fourth of the total area of the country, with 48,000,000 acres, more or less. Placer mining, and sheep raising are the prin- cipal indutsries of this territory. The raising of sheep has made Punta Arenas a great wool, hides and tal- low market, and a large proportion of the frozen meat exportation also goes from here, while it has, besides, a considerable fur trade. Many of the business men are of Scotch origin. The climate is cold, and windy, though not unhealthy. Puerto Montt is the capital of the province of Llan- quihue, a stock raising and agricultural district, of which it is the principal seaport. The most important steamboat lines call here. It is the seat of one of 198 Lands of the Southern Cross the earliest German colonies, bearing the name of President Manuel Montt, to whose encouragement the colony was largely due. Valdivia, named after the first colonizer of Chile, is the capital of the province of the same name, with a population comparatively small; but the city is of in- creasing importance. It is situated at the mouth of the Calle-Calle river, a few miles from Coral which is its seaport. Although it was founded in 1552 by Valdivia who gave to it his own name, and though it became for a time the second city of the country, as late as 1850, it was a wretched town of wooden huts. German immigration completely transformed it, and it soon became a clean, and prosperous town. The climate is habitually damp, with a dry season lasting only a few months, and occasional rains. Yet in summer it is so agreeable that Valdivia has be- come a summer resort. Coronel is the great coaling station, and a port of call for steamers. The tourist who travels by the Magellan route from the east coast to Chile, would do well to stop at Coronel, and proceed by rail to Con- cepcion, where he may take the train for Santiago, passing through the Araucanian country, and the cen- tral valley of Chile. The distance from Concepcion to Santiago is about three hundred and fifty miles, and the journey lasts a day. About thirty or forty miles north of Coronel, Con- cepcion is situated, with a population numbering some sixty thousand. It is the capital of the province which bears the same name, and it is regarded as the com- mercial centre of southern Chile. The original Con- cepcion, founded by Valdivia, lay a short distance from the present site. It was destroyed by an earth- quake toward the middle of the eighteenth century,. Chile 199 and in 1754, the present Concepcion was built ten miles from the mouth of the Bio-Bio river which had been established as the dividing line between Spanish and Araucanian territory. It is well built, with block-paved streets, plazas, and electric lighting. The Haran Hotel in Concepcion is regarded as the best in southern Chile. The site of old Concepcion is now occupied by the town of Penco which is connected by rail with the new city. The seaport of Concepcion is Talcahuano with about fifteen thousand inhabitants, about half an hour's run by rail. This is the naval station for the Chilean fleet. About a hundred miles northeast of Concepcion, lies the city of Chilian, the capital of the province of Nuble. Old. Chilian having been destroyed by the earthquake of 1835, it was rebuilt a short dis- tance to the south, on the present site, in the heart of an agricultural district. A visit may be made to the ruins of old Chilian by street car, and for one interested in South American history, it cannot fail to prove attractive. The city was founded in 1580, by the governor, Don Martin Kuiz de Gamboa, under the name of San Bar- tolome, but, as in many other instances in American nomenclature, the aboriginal name prevailed. In the last half of the eighteenth century, Chilian be- came the headquarters of the Franciscan missions for the evangelization of the natives, from the Bio-Bio, down to the Straits of Magellan.* It was in old Chil- ian, that Bernardo O'Hlggins, the hero of independ- ence was born. * Historia de las Mlsiones del Colegio de Chlllian, P. Roberto Lagos, 1908. 200 Lands of the Southern Cross The present Chilian is renowned for its Feria, or Fair, at which there is an exhibition of Horses and cat- tle, and the sale of many articles of interest. It is one of the greatest industrial centres of Chile. From the city, the Cordilleras are in full view, and, a few leagues away, are the baths of Chilian, near the vol- cano of the same name. Chilian lies on the central railway. About a hundred miles further north, on the same line, we find Talca, like Chilian, an inland city, with a population of forty-five thousand. Founded in 1692, it had fallen into decay, when, in 1742, it was re- built on ground donated by the Augustinian Friars, thus reappearing, as San Augustin de Talca. It is one of the most beautiful cities of Chile, and re- nowned for having been the birthplace of a consider- able number of eminent men, foremost among whom I should mention Jos6 Ignacio Cienfuegos, who, in 1790, became parish priest of his native city, an office that he filled for twenty -three years. Taking an active part in the revolutionary government, as member of the Junta, he was exiled by the Spaniards to the island of Juan Fernandez off the Chilean coast, whence he returned after the success of the revolution, to be- come arch-deacon of the cathedral of Santiago. Some time later, we find him acting as minister plenipoten- tiary of his government at the Papal court. He be- came bishop of Concepcion in 1832, resigned six years later to retire to private life in Santiago, and died in 1845, leaving the memory of a zealous ecclesiastic, as well as of a public benefactor to his native city, and to his country. He breathed his last at Talca, where he was born. Chapter XIV SANTIAGO Topography — Santa Lueia — Plaza de Armas — Electric Tram- ways — Women Conductors — Intendencia — Ambrose O'Hlg- gins — The Congress — The "Moneda" — National Library — Andres Bello — Jose Toribio Medina — Quiuta Normal — National Museum — Alameda — American Legation — Modern Residences — Santiago Society — Drunkenness in the Lower Classes— Cousiiio Park — House of Pius IX — Costume of the Women — Newspapers. Santiago is the capital of Chile, with a population of about 400,000. To form a good idea of its topo- graphy, ascend to the summit of the hill of Santa Lucia, an eminence in the centre of a vast plain, upon which Santiago is built, surrounded by mountains. Originally the fortress of the Incas, and later of Val- divia, it is now the pleasure resort of the Santiago people, to which pedestrians have free access, a small fee being charged for carriages. You reach the summit of the hill, whence the best view is obtained, by a series of beautiful steps and terraces. A finely chiseled stone, about four or five feet in length, fixed upright in one of the walls is worthy of notice, as it contains the arms of Spain, with the Bourbon lilies. It was found, during the course of excavations for the construction of a private dwelling. In the immediate vicinity, are several stone benches that adorned the Alameda, the fashionable street of Santiago, at the time, early in the last century, when 201 202 Lands of the Southern Gross it was customary for the politicians of the day, to gather there. One of them bears an indentation, said to have been made by the famous Portales with his cane, when striking it, in the heat of argument. On the side of the hill, the restaurant occupies the site where, for a long time, the Spaniards had a fort. In the early part of the nineteenth century, the Cerro de Santa Lucia was used as a burial ground for Protestants, and in 1849, an American scientific ex- pedition, in charge of Lieutenant James Gillis of the United States navy, erected there an astronomical ob- servatory that was, later, purchased by the Chileans, and removed to another site. The one to whom the ^'Cerro" owes its present beau- tiful aspect is the well-known historian, and literary man, Benjamin Vicuna Mackenna, who, as Intendente of Santiago, about 1872, began to convert the hill into the beautiful park it became, devoting the whole of his private fortune to the enterprise. As you stand on the summit of this characteristic eminence, rendering the topograhpy of Santiago so absolutely unique, your eye wanders toward the east where the snow line of the Cordillera fades into the sky, and, on the other side, you behold the coast range, running parallel. Down below in the plain, the city lies on all sides at your feet. You will observe here, that the architecture of Santiago is far more Spanish than that of Buenos Aires, and less modernized. The majority of the houses are low, with the traditional court or patio, and from the height where you stand, you can look down into a number of them with their trees and shrubbery which, in summer, give to San- tiago the appearance of a vast garden. There are, also, many beautiful modern dwellings, especially on the Alameda, and, into some the system of heating Santiago 203 the house which, generally speaking, does not exist, has been introduced. The streets, long and narrow, cross each other at rectangles ; but the beautiful, wide, Alameda, divides the city, through which, also, flows the little Mapocho river. The light yellow color, so universal throughout, as well as the similarity of archi- tecture, would impart to the city an air of monotony, were it not for the trees, the churches, and the larger edifices that rise above the rest The first object to draw your attention, as you stand on the Cerro de Santa Lucia, will, probably, be the hill rising above the town, with a very large statue of the Immaculate Conception upon it. This is the hill of San Cristobal, the property of the large Domin- ican monastery, the gardens of which stretch toward its base. The statue on the summit is over thirty -six feet high, and, on the pedestal, it reaches to a height of more than seventy-two feet. An American univer- sity owns an observatory on this hill. At a short distance from the foot of the Santa Lucia, you will observe the great square, or Plaza de Armas, known, also, as Plaza de la Independencm, surrounded by buildings, prominent among which are the cathedral, the archbishop's palace, the palace of the intendente, or mayor of the city, and the postoflfice. The large, white building, with a spacious garden, be- yond the plaza, is that of Congress, and to the left, some distance away, you will see the government building, in which the president resides. The church, outside of the square, on the right, be- longs to the older Dominican monastery, where the Friars of that order first settled. Nearer to you, back of the square, you will see the convents of the Augus- tinians, and Mercedarians, while on the long Ala- meda, you will observe the church of San Francisco, 204 Lands of the Southern Cross the oldest in Santiago. As your eye wanders over the city, it will meet with convents, churches, hospitals, and institutions of all kinds. The large group of build- ings behind you in the distance is the seminary of the diocese. I would advise the tourist to pay at least two visits to the hill of Santa Lucia, one, as soon as he arrives at Santiago, to conceive a clear idea of the topo- graphy of the city, and the other, in order to har- monize with the general plan the details he has stud- ied. We may now descend from the hill, to visit the principal points of interest. Of course, we first direct our steps to the great square, which is only a short distance away from the hotel Oddo. The existence of this plaza must be traced back to the earliest period of the conquest, though the buildings upon it are all of much later date. These are especially the cathedral, to which we return on another occasion, the archbishop's residence, the palace of the inten- dente, or the municipal building, and the postoffice. The electric street cars, or tramways, pass around this square to spread to various parts of the city. A distinguishing feature of many of these vehicles is that they consist of two sections, an upper, and a lower, connected by a flight of steps, like the London omnibuses, or the old Parisian tramways, the lower being first, and the upper second class. Another feat- ure of the Chilean tramway which is, perhaps, noticed in no other country, is, that a large proportion of the conductors are women, who step lively along the sides, climb the steps, and collect the fares, with all the sangfroid of the ordinary male conductor. What they would do if it came to the point, that one or Santiago 205 the other man should have to be put off the car, I am unable to state. At the revolution of 1891, when so many of the men went to war, women took their place in the tram- ways, until all the conductors were of the female sex, quite young and pretty, with attractive uniforms. Of course, these young lady conductors proved a bait to the Santiago young men, and the street car service became a matrimonial centre, the conductors passing from the tramway to the hymeneal altar.^ Then the uniforms were taken away, less attractive women were chosen and, at present, men are again conducting cars, though a considerable proportion of women remains. If you face the cathedral, you will have the post- office on your right. The postal system of Chile dis- tributes more than 100,000,000 letters, cards, and postal packages a year. The postoffice of Santiago employs a number of women as postal clerks. Next to the postoffice, is the Intendencia, or muni- cipal building, in which the principal offices of local administration are to be found. It was here, that, in old colonial times, the captain-general used to re- side. Among those who held this office we find the name of the Irishman, Ambrose O'Higgins, who was, afterward, viceroy of Peru, and whose son, Bernardo, was to be the hero of Chilean independence. The beginning of Ambrose was of the humblest, but fortune favored him, when his uncle, a Jesuit, called him to Cadiz, where he enjoyed the benefit of some education. It was through this uncle that he went to Peru, whence he passed over to Chile where he ob- tained employment as civil engineer, to build the lit- tle houses destined to shelter the mail carriers on the 1 The Republic of Chile. Marie Robinson Wright, p. 73. 206 Lands of the Southern Cross Cordillera. While thus occupied, a rebellion of the Araucanians occurred, that caused the captain-gen- eral to organize a company of foreign volunteers to be commanded by O'Higgins. This was the making of him. He rose step by step in the military service, until, in 1785, he was promoted to be captain-general of Chile. Leaving the Plaza de Armas by the street running before the postoffice, and along the outer wall of the cathedral, you will soon arrive at the building of Con- gress. It occupies the site of the old Jesuit college, which, for the illustrious memories clustering around it, must be regarded as of the first importance in the religious, and literary history of Spanish America. The garden, to the rear of the building, is the site of the church that was destroyed by fire, in 1863, with a loss of about two thousand lives. A statue of the Immaculate Conception now stands upon the spot. The Congress building, in classic Greco-Roman style, with beautiful porticos on the sides, is the legis- lative hall of the Eepublic. Unlike the older build- ings of South America, it is comfortably heated. The circular halls on either side are, one for the senate, and the other for the house of deputies, with thirty-two members for the former, and ninety-six for the latter. Senators are elected by direct vote, for a term of six years, in the proportion of one for every three depu- ties, the senate being partially renewed every three years. Deputies are, also, elected directly for a period of three years, there being one for every thirty thou- sand inhabitants, or fraction not less than 15,000. As elsewhere in South America, the two main political parties are the conservatives and liberals. Public men in Spanish America are, as a rule, men of edu- Santiago 207 cation, and, frequently, writers of no mean ability who mold public opinion by the pen, as well as by the living voice. I might mention, for instance, the ven- erable senator, and university professor, Abdon Cifuentes, who is a prominent member of the conserva- tive party. As an orator, he has been compared to Donoso Cortes. His discourses, published in two large volumes were pronounced, not only in Congress, but before various societies on a variety of interesting topics. The proceedings in Congress appear to be characterized by a certain pleasant air of informality, to judge from a session of the senate that I once at- tended, when the speaker delivered his discourse seated, with a cigar in his hand. Another government building, not far off, is the Moneda, an immense edifice, with a very large patio, the whole dating from the colonial period. As the story goes, a mint had been ordered built by the home government for Mexico, but, by some error or other, it was erected in Santiago, for which it was not in- tended, and thus the capital of Chile came into pos- sesion of the mint, and the Kepublic obtained a large edifice for the purposes of government. A portion of the building serves as a residence for the president, for whom a new, and separate dwelling is soon to be erected. The other portions of the edifice are used for various departments of the government. Directly op- posite is the building devoted to the army, and to the ministry of war. In the vicinity of the Congress, and back of the Plaza de Armas, stands the Bihlioteca Nacional, or National Library, the building of which, dating from the colonial epoch, was used for the meetings of Con- gress, until 1875 and, in one of its halls, the inde pendence of Chile was proclaimed. The present edi- 208 Lands of the Southern Cross fice is much too small for its purpose, and there is question of erecting a new one. It contains about 150,000 volumes, with a reading room for the public. Books may be borrowed, provided a deposit be left at the library. It has been calculated, that the aver- age circulation amounts to 40,000 volumes a year. Especially interesting to the student of Americana is the large department of manuscripts, those of the ante-suppression Jesuits alone numbering from one to two thousand. You will, also, find here a number of old paintings of South American authoriship. In front of the library, a statue of Andres Bello, by the Chilean sculptor, Nicanor Plaza, keeps fresh the memory of one of the foremost scholars of Amer- ica. Andres Bello was a most extraordinary, though entirely self-made man. Born in Venezuela in 1780, he added by his own efforts to the little education he received in a Mercedarian monastery, to such an extent that he was able to impart his knowledge to others. Among his pupils he counted the great lib- erator, Simon Bolivar, who was of his own age. In 1810, he accompanied Bolivar to London, where a new horizon was extended before him, and where for years, while acting as the diplomatic agent of his country, he devoted himself to literary labors, making use of all the opportunities so abundantly offered to him, in the capital of Great Britain. About 1829, Bello entered the service of Chile which, henceforward, was to be his adopted country. From now on, until his death in 1865, his life was one of ceaseless intellectual activity, and the evolution of a prodigious mind. He became in politics the oracle of Spanish America, and the arbiter of nations. His civil code of Chile would alone entitle him to endur- ing fame, and place him beside the great legislatori Santiago 209 of the world. Bello was the first rector of the uni- versity of Chile from its organization in 1843, until his death. He has left numerous works, an edition of which was, some years ago, published by the Chilean government. He enjoyed the greatest esteem among his adopted countrymen, while he lived, and his statue near the library testifies to their abiding gratitude. Besides the Biblioteca Nacional, another important library, with a precious collection of works apper- taining to America is that of the Instituto Nacional. The most valuable collection of works, however, on Spanish America in the colonial period, probably the best collection in existence, is to be found in the private library of Jos6 Toribio Medina, the eminent historian, and bibliographer who has spent thirty-five years, or more, of his life in collecting. Medina is a prodigious worker whose pen has produced books in- numerable, his large Biblioteca Eispano Americana being alone the labor of a lifetime. He has his own printing press in his house, and, therefore, the advan- tage of beholding the work done under his own eyes. The reading public in Spanish America is neces- sarily limited, and, consequently, the publishing of books is not a paying investment. In fact, the pub- lishing of learned works, such as Medina produces, would not be a paying investment in any country. Only a man with the leisure, and independent exis- tence of Medina could have devoted himself to such labors. I must add, however, that important works of national interest are often published, or aided by the government. The home of Jos6 Toribio Medina is a typical old colonial residence, with dark, and cold rooms, but with the spacious, traditional courtyard, or patio. The library is, of course, its most important 210 Lands of the Southern Cross feature, an object really of international import- ance. One would hardly seek such treasures, in the quiet street, where the house is situated. It was my good fortune to be led through his library by the owner himself, and to enjoy his intellectual conver- sation as his guest at table. Really it refreshes the mind, in this matter-of-fact world, to meet occasional- ly scholars like Medina. If you will take the cars on the Plaza de Armas, and, leaving the postoffice on the right, proceed past the building of Congress, to the end of the street, you will find yourself at the entrance of a fine park. A sign in large letters will tell you that you are at the Quinta Normal. The word quint a which means a country house, is generally employed to designate the suburban villas, or even those in the city, located in a park or garden, which one finds so abundantly in Spanish America. The Quinta Normal, situated at the western end of the city, encloses three hundred and twenty acres, splendidly arranged as a park, with gardens, rivulets, lakes, and walks. Here you will find the important agricultural school to which I shall again refer, the Museum of Fine Arts, the National Museum, the Exposition building, the botanical and zoological gardens, and the Museum of Natural His- tory. The Musem of Fine Arts, a building in classic style, contains the best that Chilean painters and sculptors have produced, and, within its halls, the annual ex- hibition of painting and sculpture takes place. Chil- ean art is little more than half a century old, and yet its artists have taken a respectable position in the world of the beautiful. French and Italian influences stood sponsors at its cradle, and contributed, finally, toward the creation of the Academy of Fine Arts Santiago 211 which grew out of the Academy of Painting, founded in 1849, and out of the schools of sculpture and archi- tecture. The National Museum is an old institution with two sections, the one devoted to natural history, and the other to ethnology. The former is of especial in- terest for its department of Chilean zoology. The museum contains mineralogical, botanical, and zoolo- gical collections, with their subordinate divisions. The department of palaeontology is rich in species found in Chile, and for the study of Chilean flora, the botan- ical collections are of high value. In the department of entomology, at least sixty thousand specimens are Chilean, while a variety of birds and other animals serve to aid the study of South American fauna. The ethnological collection contains a number of Chilean crania, as well as mummies from Peru and Bolivia. The botanical garden, with its large conservatories, and varied species of plants, is a fine adjunct to the National Museum, and the same may be said of the zoological garden and museum of natural history. The Quinta Normal possesses, also, its chemical labor- atory, veterinary institute, and others of scientific importance. In the exposition building, the industrial products of the country in every department are exhibited, to the great advantage of the Chilean manufacturer who thus finds a splendid opportunity of exhibiting, and advertising the results of his industry. Santiago may boast of a considerable number of other public buildings of interest, to many of which, at least a brief allusion will be made, in our next chapters on the Church, and on education. However, to gain a better knowledge of the city, we may now usefully proceed to walk, or drive through various sections, be- 212 Lands of the Southern Cross ginning with the main thoroughfare, the Alameda de las Delicias. This broad and beautiful avenue, nearly three miles long, and three hundred and fifty feet wide, extends from the Cerro de Santa Lucia to the Central Railway station. The centre is occupied by a park or garden, extending the length of the ave- nue, with statues, and other adornments, to which the driveways and tramways run parallel, while pedes- trians will find wide trottoirs, or sidewalks on either side. The Alameda, at first an ordinary highway, did not assume its present aesthetic features, until the famous administration, as In ten den te, of Vicuna Mackenna, when the city was paved, and better lighted. The monuments on the Alameda are especially note- worthy. The equestrian statue of San Martin rep- resents him on his famous passage of the Andes, and O'Higgins in bronze on a marble pedestal, is leaping a trench at Rancagua. Other great men of Chilean fame, heroes in peace, and in war, among them Mac- kenna, are remembered, in bronze or in marble, on the Alameda. On this avenue, stands the American legation, where, during my brief sojourn in the city, the Charge d'Af- faires, Mr. Pierpont, was representing our govern- ment. I am, indeed, much indebted to him for his courtesy. On the opposite side, toward the "Cerro," lives the Papal internuntius. The Alameda is crossed by a large number of streets which in both directions go to form the rectangles of which Chile's capital is composed. In your random rambles through Santiago, observing the low houses, looking in through the barred doorways at the patios, here and there having your attention drawn to some remnant of colonial architecture, you will meet with Santiago 213 no inconsiderable number of magnificent private resi- dences, with all the luxury and refined features of the modern Kenaissance style, and the stamp of France upon them. Beginning with the Alameda, you find some splendid residences in a style quite modern, with Doric, or Corinthian porticos, artistic balconies, and sixteenth century windows, of the classic, or of the more ornate Renaissance period. Prominent among the beautiful homes of Santiago, is the fine residence of Senora MacClure de Edwards, married into one of the prominent Chilean families which, like so many of the best families of the land, has its rep- resentative among the clergy. The edifice, in classic style, belongs to the best Renaissance, or Classic per- iod, before the corruption of the Baroco had begun to vitiate the Greco-Roman style. The windows of the first floor are of Roman, and those of the second, of Grecian design. A fine Corinthian portico serves for the main entrance. Not all of the fine Santiago residences are put up in the style of the Renaissance, for the tastes of the owners, and builders have added the charm of variety to the architecture of the city. For instance, the home of Senator Guzman gives you a taste of Vene- tian Gothic, and, elsewhere, you will be reminded of the Alhambra, in the Moorish style that has been chosen. If you have letters of introduction, or if you have formed acquaintances in some other way, you will find Chilean hospitality quite generous, and Santiago society charming. I cannot refrain from mentioning in this book two gentlemen to whom I feel the greatest indebtedness for their kindness. Senator Joaquin Walker Martinez, formerly Chilean minister to Wash- ington, and a prominent member of the Conservative 214 Lands of the Southern Cross party, was untiring in his attentions, placing, day after day, his carriage and himself at my disposal, accompanying, and directing me to the various points of interest. The other friend is Dr. Aureliano Oyarzun, who had been my fellow- Americanist at Buenos Aires, a prom- inent physician, and man of science. To these two gentlemen I am indebted for much that I saw in Santiago. It is quite probable that you will be invited by your friends to breakfast, or dinner. The home of your host may be one of the old style buildings, or it may be a modern residence. In the former case, you enter from the street directly through a wide door- way, closed often by a barred gate of iron, into a vesti- bule, on either side of which there may be a room, one being the parlor, or reception room. From the vesti- bule, you pass to the patio, around which are other rooms, such as sleeping apartments, and the dining room. A Chilean breakfast in its general features re- sembles that of other parts of South America, with a number of courses and an abundance of everything, chicken being one of the ordinary dishes. An article quite frequent at table in Chile and Peru is panqueque, pancake, deliciously prepared, and eaten, according to one's taste, with, or without honey. Your wines may be native or imported. The Chilean wines are first class. There is a white, ordinary wine, quite cheap, that makes an excellent breakfast drink, and so light that you might almost take a gallon of it, with- out noticing the effects. Unfortunately, very much drunkenness prevails among the lower classes of Chile who seem to have inherited this vice, as well as certain propensities to theft, from their Araucanian ancestors. At the end Santiago 215 of the week it is quite common for laborers to indulge in drink to such an extent that days pass before the effects have worn away, and Monday is, consequently, often a lost day, while some do not return to work, until such time as suits their convenience. Let me suppose, that you have been invited to dine at one of the modern residences. You will be ushered into a beautiful, and splendidly lighted hall, little different from such rooms in the best residences of Europe or the United States. Your host, if he is a literary man, will, most likely, show you his library, and, if he is himself an author, he will, probably, present you with a work or two from his pen. There are some fine private libraries in Chile, that of the late president, Pedro Montt, ranking as one of the best in South America. If you visit the house in the day time, you may, also, see the garden which, in some cases, is exquis- itely beautiful. Aestheticism prevails throughout the whole dwelling, for the Latin temperament is aesthe- tic, if anything. You will find a sense of the beauti- ful everywhere, united to classical taste, for instance, in the Louis XV. salon of the residence of Senor Eafael Errazuriz. Our wanderings through Santiago would be incom- plete, without a visit to Cousmo Park, at the southern limits of the city, with its three hundred and fifty acres. A gift to the city of the late Luis Cousiiio, a coal magnate of Chile, it is a favorite resort for soci- ety in spring, and autumn. Nearby are the Jockey Club grounds, and the Campo de Marto, or field for military reviews. Probably few visitors to Santiago ever know, or even think of finding out, where the house is, that was occupied by Pius IX., when he lived in Santiago. If 216 Lands of the Southern Cross you care to know, then ask to be directed tp the Capuchin convent in the Calle de la Bandera. The house at the corner just opposite, now occupied by the Christian Brothers, is said to be the one where Monsignor Mastai Ferretti lived, when auditor of the nunciature at Santiago. You may wind up very pleasantly your excursions through Santiago with a drive past the quintas, or suburban villas, of which there is a considerable num- ber, it would seem almost at the foot of the eastern Cordillera. Keturning home, you may, if you wish, pass through the slums, with their conventillos, where the poor live in apparent misery, and, whether necessarily or not, in great squalor. However, if beggary is an index of poverty, or pauperism in a city, then Santiago, like Buenos Aires, is prosperous, at least when compared to some other places. On your arrival in Santiago, especially if it be in the morning, you will be greatly impressed by the costume of the women. All, rich and poor, externally at least, dress alike, for all wear the manto, and, dur- ing the forenoon, few hats are to be seen. The manto is distinctively Chilean, and no woman may enter the church with a hat. It is a great leveller, doing away, as it does, with all class distinctions, and proving an effectual barrier to female vanity. Should a lady at- tempt to enter a church with a hat, she will, most like- ly as not, be insulted by the women of the people. We can easily understand, that the manto is not in favor with the more modern element, but the eccles- iastical authorities are inexorable. Its adversaries say that it keeps the ladies away from the church in the afternoon, when hats universally take its place, while the advocates of the old Chilean custom advance in Chilean Lady with Maxto Santiago 217 its favor the greater modesty and humility of attire, more becoming to the house of God. Women of the people wear the manto at all times, but ladies of the better class discard it in the after- noon for the hat. They would not be seen with it in the evening, when it is adopted even by the demimonde, as it affords better opportunities for concealment. The Chilean lady, tall and slender as she often is, walks with a firm, elastic, and independent step. She is naturally graceful, and the manto renders her more so. I will leave a description of it to one more com- petent than myself, to a lady: "The foreigner,'^ writes Marie Kobinson Wright,* "if her manto has been aranged by her own hands, is easily distinguishable from the Chilean. She has prob- ably thought it sufficient to throw one end of it over her head, and wrap the rest around her shoulders, fastening it at the back of the neck with a jewelled clasp. But that is not all the art of manto veiling. The Chilean, on the contrary, gives it a grace of her own creation. She arranges her manto with deft fing- ers, being careful to pose it on her head in the most attractive way. In drawing its folds over her should- ers, she knows how to give the drapery an artistic effectiveness that a Paris gown could never achieve. The style of wearing the manto is as diverse as the charac- ter and temperament of the wearers. When my lady steps from her carriage at the church door, her ap- pearance reveals to the careful observer all that the most conventional costume would indicate. A swish of skirts displays the daintiest of feet, encased in the finest of shoes — for Chilean women are renowned for their small feet — and in the poise of the head, in the 2 The Republic of Chile, p. 118. 218 Lands of the Southern Cross manner of carrying the prayerbook and the rosary, and in a thousand indefinable trifles that enhance the charm of mystery which the manto gives, there is an open book for the student of human nature. From the grande dame to the little shopgirl, the same feminine trait may be discerned through the guise of the manto. The dignified matron, the happy novia, the coquettish senorita, each has her own particular style — severe, elaborate, or insinuating — and each betrays her be- setting vanity as clearly as if arrayed in the most mod- ern dress. The manto is thin enough sometimes to show the fashionable bodice underneath; and, alas, it is thick enough at other times to conceal the all too careless toilette!" I may add that the manto is simply a square piece of black cloth, thrown over the head, the folds of which are fastened back of the shoulders. It gives to the wearers, when kneeling in church, the appearance of so many nuns. The Chilean lady is more free than in most Latin countries, and she goes about without the everlasting necessity of a duena, or chaperone, knowing how to take care of herself, nor being subjected to annoyance. In this regard, Chile resembles the United States. Another feature of the Chilean capital is its still- ness at night. People may go to the theatre, or to social entertainments, but few are abroad, and the fashionable resorts, like the Alameda, are almost de- serted. The stores and shops are closed with immense shutters, and all seems dead. I write from my own impressions, but others tell me that, at night, the Plaza presents a very lively scene, with its promen- aders who go round and round to the sound of fine music, and that often the crowds remain until long after midnight. It is possible that, during my stay in Santiago 219 the city, the cold weather kept people indoors, or that I never happened to go to the Plaza, when it was alive, though I have visited it at nine or ten o'clock, to find it practically deserted. Another quiet hour, when business is, more or less, suspended, is that of the almuerzo, or breakfast, some time between eleven and one. You will then find many of the business places closed, for Santiago takes time to eat. Besides being the head and heart of the nation, Santiago is, also, an industrial centre, giving occu- pation to thousands of working people, with a con- siderable number of factories, large and small, of various kinds. Among the great commercial houses, especial men- tion is deserved by that of W. R. Grace & Company which exerts such marked influence in South Amer- ican trade. The firm has a house at Santiago, and another at Valparaiso. If you can find time to read newspapers, on your travels, they will give you an insight into the daily commercial, as well as social life of the people. Chil- ean newspapers, with their colored supplement on feast days, are different in appearance from the Eng- lish, American, or Argentine papers, but they are quite up-to-date with editorials, news, local and for- eign, and an abundance of advertisements. The Sun- day papers are large with much matter. I have lying before me a Sunday copy of El Mercurio, with twenty- four pages, as large as those of the Baltimore Sun. The Mercumo, published in Valparaiso, as well as in Santiago, is the leading paper of Chile. El Mercurio has in the past, been directed by such editors as Bar- tolom^ Mitre, and Sarmiento of Argentina, while Diego Portales, Benjamin Vicuna Mackenna, Andres Bello, 220 Lands of the Southern Cross Diego Barros Arana, and Miguel Luis Amunategui, literary stars of Chile, have all contributed to it. Other newspapers of Santiago are El Porvenir, and La Union, both Catholic, La Lei, Liberal, besides El Ch4l- enOj La Tarde, and so forth. Chapter XV. THE CHURCH AND EDUCATION IN CHILE. The " Conquistador es" — Valdivia — Franciscans — Padre Er- razuriz — San Francisco — The Cathedral — Bishop Villaroel — Union of Church and State— The Clergy — Parishes — Societies — Ladies of South America — Catholic Papers — The Seminary — The Dominicans — Augustinians — La Merced — Jesuits — Protestants in Chile — Education in Colonial Times — Present Education — Pedagogy — State University — Religion in the Schools — Archbishop Casanova — The Catholic University. The Spanish conquistadores, whatever their private conduct may have been, were, as a rule, devoted to the Church, and, though their lives were often lax; with few exceptions, they wished to die well. There are strange contradictions in the Latin temperament of the sixteenth century, in which strong faith, and lax morality often go hand in hand. The atmosphere of the age was not conducive to good morals, for the spirit of the Pagan Kenaissance had invaded the world in science, in literature, and in the arts, and it could not be but that it should exercise an influence on the morals of the people. Yet, though the Spaniards might lapse into serious transgressions, we are not aware, that they sought principles to justify their conduct, and, with that strong faith, always characteristic of Spain, though they might, for a time, stifle the voice of their conscience, they, finally, yielded to its dictates, sometimes going to the opposite extreme. Charles V., Heman, Cortes, Lope de Vega, Ercilla y Zuniga, all had their lapses, yet, in later life, they strove to make 221 222 Lands of the Southern Cross amends. It is then no wonder, that we find similar contradictions in the early history of Chile. If the conqueror of Mexico marched into the coun- try with Dona Marina, Valdivia had his Dona Inez. It is indeed a picture of the times to behold Pedro de Vadivia advancing down the valley at the head of his cavaliers, with a little image of the Blessed Virgin in front of his saddle, and Dona Inez de Suarez on the crupper. It was this Dona Inez who, when Valdivia had gone to the south, saved the little garrison of Santiago from destruction, by having the heads of the Indian prisoners thrown into the enemy's ranks, and then charging them, at the head of the cavalry. The little image of the Blessed Virgin of Valdivia, his companion on his journeys in Flanders, Italy, and Peru, is now preserved above the main altar in the church of San Francisco, on the Alameda, where I saw it, on my visit to that church. Valdivia met an untimely death, but, before the end came, he had reconciled himself to God and to his duty. Valdivia, like the conquistadores generally, had been accompanied by ecclesiastics. Among the priests who may have gone down the valley with the first con- querors, came, also, a secular ecclesiastic, Don Bar- tolome Rodrigo Gonzales Marmolejo. Six years after the foundation of Santiago, the bishop of Cuzco, Don Juan Solano, to whose jurisdiction Chile was subject, appointed Marmolejo parish priest of Santiago, and vicar for the whole district of Chile. The church to which he was thus assigned grew in course of time to be the cathedral, the oldest parish in Chile. As there was great need of missionaries in the country, ten years after his arrival, Valdivia sent a petition for laborers in the field to the king of Spain. In re- sponse to this petition, five Franciscans passed over The Church and Education in Chile 223 from Lima to Chile, in 1553, under Father Martin de Robleda. Their first establishment was in a little hermitage at the foot of Santa Lucia. The chapel which, today, stands beneath the hill reminds you of those early days of Santiago, and of Valdivia. It is at present served by a venerable Dominican, famous in the lit- erature of his country, one of that old generation of scholars that has nearly passed away. Father Crescente Errazuriz, member of a distin- guished Chilean family, and of that Dominican con- gregation, known as the Recolleccion Dominicana, is now spending his old age in his hermit life, at the foot of Santa Lucia. He may look back at a long career of usefulness, for he is now seventy-one years of age. He is the author of several learned works on Chilean history, of which he presented to me some val- uable copies, when I had the honor of paying him a visit in his modest dwelling, near the historic old Cerro. His brother Maximiano, known as an able statesman, visited the United States in 1865, on a con- fidential mission. The Franciscans had been eight months in the her- mitage of Santa Lucia, when they passed to that of El Socorro, a Lady chapel, erected by the Spaniards, in gratitude for their victory in 1841 over the Indians. The site of this chapel is now occupied by the church on the Alameda, known as San Francisco, in which Valdivia's wooden image of Our Lady of Succor is preserved. As this is the oldest existing church in Santiago, we shall pay to it our first visit. The cornerstone of the edifice was laid on June 5, 1572, and, in 1594, it was opened to worship. Aided by donations of the king, it was finished in 1618, though the tower was 224 Lands of the Southern Gross not completed until 1640. The church of San Fran- cisco is the only monument in Santiago that has lasted since the sixteenth century, and that has withstood the frequent and terrible earthquakes of Chile. Its walls of enormous blocks, strongly cemented, look as if they might still withstand many a catastrophe. Adjoining the church, stands the old convent with several interesting cloisters. The first, with its orig- inal arches, dates from 1623; but the second, destroyed by the earthquake of 1647, was rebuilt on an entirely different plan.^ The old Franciscans that came to America were earnest men, and heroic laborers. From Mexico to southern Chile they devoted themselves to the salva- tion of the Indians, and, to their pen, we owe much of what has been preserved to us of Indian ethnology. The correspondence of the times exhibits them as fear- less men, not hesitating even to tell the truth to the king himself, and to point out to him his duties. From such men, Valdivia could expect no compromise with conscience. They hesitated not to rebuke, even pub- licly, the vices of the man, and they finally brought about his complete conversion. The cloisters are, in winter at least, damp, and cold, and one wonders how the old cells with a door and window opening on the cloister, dark, damp and chilly, could have been occupied by human beings. These cells are no longer employed as sleeping apart- ments, but several of them have been turned into a museum, with a most interesting collection of relics of the old colonial period. The library of the monastery contains about thirty- two thousand volumes. Unfortunately, there is very 1 Historia de las Misiones del Colegio de Chilian. Roberto Lagos. The Church and Education in Chile 225 little of the colonial period in so many of the mon- astic libraries, as much, very much has been destroyed by the many revolutions that have passed over South America. The library of San Francisco is, however, in possession of a rare copy of that old Franciscan chronicler of Peru, Cordoba y Salinas, which was donated to it by the historian, Jos6 Toribio Medina. From San Francisco, we may now pass over to the Plaza de Armas, and devote some attention to the cathedral, and to the general condition of the Church in Chile, past and present. The diocese of Santiago was erected by Pius IV. in 1561, with Gonzalez Marmolejo as its first bishop, suf- fragan to the archbishop of Lima. Marmolejo was at that time old and sickly, and he died the year after his appointment, without being consecrated. His suc- cessor, Fernando de Barrionuevo, was a Franciscan. Santiago did not become a metropolitan see, until 1841, although O'Higgins had solicited the privilege as early as 1821. From its beginning, it has had twenty-one bishops, and four archbishops. The present incum- bent, since 1908, is Dr. Juan Ignacio Gonzalez. Probably the most distinguished of the bishops in the colonial period, was the Ecuadorian, Caspar Vil- laroel, who occupied the see from 1637 to 1651, when he was promoted to the archiepiscopal see of Arequipa in Peru. An Augustinian Friar, renowned no less for his virtues than for his learning and writings, Vil- laroel is an important figure in the history of ecclesi- astical literature in the colonial period. It was while he was bishop of Santiago, that the great earthquake of 1647 occurred, destroying the old cathedral, and burying the bishop beneath the ruins. When he had been drawn out wounded, instead of looking after his own safety, he spent the whole night on the Plaza, 226 Lands of the Southern Cross attending to the wants of his people. Villaroel rebuilt his cathedral in the short space of a year and a half. The present cathedral, it seems, was begun by Bishop Juan Gonzalez Melgarejo, about the middle of the eighteenth century. His successor, Manuel de Alday y Azpee, known, on account of a published work, as the Ambrose of the Indies ^ and one of the most excellent orators of his day, continued the work on the cathedral, but did not live to complete it at his death in 1788. The bishop at the time of the revolution was Jos6 Santiago Eodriguez Zorilla. Though a Chilean by birth, he does not appear to have had the sympathy of the triumphant party, as we find him exiled about 1825, when Cienfuegos, of whom I wrote in a former chapter, was called to administer the diocese. The last bishop, Zorrilla, died in 1832, and from that year, the see remained vacant, until 1843, when Manuel Vicuna was appointed the first archbishop. The suc- cessor of Vicuna was the famous Kafael Valentin Val- divieso whose name one hears at every step, a man who did so much for the Church in Chile, and contri- buted greatly to raise the secular clergy to the high standard it bears today, at the head of the entire clergy of South America. Valdivieso died in 1878, leaving an imperishable memory. A splendid mauso- leum in the cathedral, with a recumbent effigy of the archbishop, marks the spot where his remains lie. Quite a number of slabs in the sacred edifice record the names of former bishops who found their last rest- ing place in the cathedral. Among these we find the name of that Gonzalez Marmolejo to whom we have several times referred, the first priest, and first bishop- elect of Chile. The Church and Education in Chile 227 The see of Santiago remained vacant eight years, after the death of Valdivieso, until the distinguished Mariano Casanova ascended its pontifical throne. The pastoral, and other letters, as well as some of the dis- courses of the late Archbishop Casanova have been published in a fine volume from the press of B. Herder at Freiburg in Brisgau. The present cathedral, now facing the Plaza, con- trary to its former position, has recently been com- pletely renovated. Built in classic style, it may be regarded as one of the finest churches in South Amer- ica. The sombre interior, with its nave and aisles, and its dark side chapels, creates an impression of solemnity. In the very spacious sanctuary, the canons meet at stated intervals to recite, and sing the office, assisted by a most efficient boys' choir. At the solemn High Mass which is celebrated every morning, you will be impressed by the black-veiled women kneeling in the nave, with a few men, here and there. Others of the manto sex are, perhaps, kneeling, or squatted on the pavement before the side altars, exercising their private devotions. The sacristies are large, and com- modious, and the first sacristan, or sacristan mayor, the priest, Senor Koa, is a most courteous, kind, and obliging ecclesiastic, whose intelligent conversation I several times enjoyed, when partaking of his hospi- tality, at the early morning coffee after Mass. Church and state are united in Chile, as elsewhere in South America, and the former is held in high honor. She has her enemies, it is true, but they are not so pronounced as in some other countries. The conservative party, fearless and active, fights strenu- ously for her rights, though the moderate liberals are by no means all hostile to the Church, and some of them are practical Catholics. 228 Lands of the Southern Cross The secular clergy, a highly esteemed body of men, is recruited from the best families, whereby a distin- guishing mark is attached to the Chilean church. The old Friars, at one time so active in Spanish America, while they retain their wealth, have apparently lost much of their prestige. Though they are edifying by their conduct, they do not seem to have kept pace with the times, and the fact that they have recruited their ranks too easily, with perhaps too little dis- crimination and preparation, has made them descend somewhat from the commanding intellectual position they once occupied. That the old orders in Chile ar« very wealthy can easily be understood, when we re- flect, that they have been in the country since the conquest, and, as their property has remained cor- porate and undivided in the various orders, it has naturally increased in value, during the centuries. In Chile, as in Argentina and other countries where Church and state are united, the bishops are nomina- ted by the government, the candidates requiring their confirmation from the Pope. The hierarchy of Chile consists of one archbishop, three bishops, and two vicars-apostolic. Besides Santiago, the dioceses are Concepcion, Serena, and Ancud, and the vicariates apostolic, Tarapacd and Antofagasta. Last year, there were about four hundred secular, and over seven hundred regular priests in the diocese of Santiago alone. The same diocese, has nineteen religious orders of men, including the Christian Broth- ers, and twenty orders of women. It is useless to pass in review the entire clergy of Chile, but it will suf- fice to say, that the other dioceses cannot be so abun- dantly supplied. Serena, for instance, had little more than sixty secular priests, while in the vicariate of The Church and Education in Chile 229 Antofagasta there were only fourteen secular, and nine regular priests. It is evident that the distribution of ecclesiastics in the Church is very unequal, complaints meeting us from all sides of the scarcity of priests, while, in some countries, we find monasteries filled with members of their respective orders. There are about fifteen or more parish churches in the city of Santiago, besides the churches of regulars and various other churches and chapels. Quite a num- ber of the priests have no special charge, exercising a free ministry, wherever their services may happen to be in demand. There are a number of pious, and charitable soci- eties in Santiago, some of them quite old. The Hermandad de San Pedro, for instance, has as its ob- ject to attend to the burial of priests, and to offer prayers for their soul. The Hermandad de Dolores, or Institute of Evangelical Charity, established at the time of the revolution, to honor Our Lady of Sorrows, in behalf of the imprisoned patriots, now de- votes itself to visiting the sick poor in their homes. This society has, also, a branch for ladies. Another society, that of St. John Francis Eegis, endeavors to facilitate the marriage of the poor. Others have as object the promotion of good morals, and of Christian education. The society of the Good Press, and the Bibliographical society have chosen for their work the diffusion of useful books, and periodicals. An institution that one will find in South America, notably in Chile and Peru, is that of retreat houses, or Casas de Ejercicios Espirituales, to which people may retire to make a retreat. There are, at least, twenty-two such establishments in different parts of the diocese of Santiago. 230 Lands of the Southern Cross The ladies of South America in general, and in Chile in particular, are closely identified with works of charity. The Chilean woman is intensely religious, and her religion renders her expansive. "Always hope- ful, always ready to meet the experiences of life, what- ever they may be, with a cheerful heart, the Chilean woman finds her greatest consolation and joy in the soothing and elevating influence of the Church. . . . It is noticeable to a stranger that the most beautiful residences are pointed out as the homes of ^the president of the orphans' asylum,' or ^the director of the Childrpu'-- Hospital.' The Senora Doiia Mag- dalena Vicuna de Subercaseaux, although a great- grandmother, is still active in many charities, and her daughter, Senora Emiliana Subercaseaux de Concha, gives much of her time and attention, as well as very liberal contributions, to the cause of the unfortunate and afflicted among the "poor." ^ The Catholic clergy in Chile make good use of the press, to extend their influence. Among other period- icals, they conduct La Revista Catolica, which appears every two weeks, with articles on religion, sociology, national history, philology, and so forth. It is the organ of the clergy. La Union is a Catholic daily, with three editions, appearing in Santiago, Valparaiso, and Concepcion. Founded by the present archbishop, it is now owned by a priest, Senor Casanueva. This newspaper has a fine plant. When I visited it, they were celebrating the installation of a new printing press. The different dioceses have each their seminary, in which young men are educated for the priesthood. The great seminary of Santiago is said to be the 2 Wright ; The Republic of Chile, p. 118-120. The Church and Education in Chile 231 largest in America, excepting, probably, the grand seminaire of Montreal. It exists since 1585, having been founded by Bishop Diego de Medellin, after his return from the third Council of Lima. Last year it had 485 students, 80 in the great, and 405 in the little seminary, for the institution consists of two departments. Among the interesting objects guarded in the sem- inary of Santiago is a large crucifix, said to have been donated to some official, or body of officials, by the Emperor Charles V. The crucifix before which the patriots swore to safeguard the independence of Chile is, also, preserved here. There are quite a number of churches in Santiago that possess considerable interest, and several of them date from the colonial period. Among the old par- ishes, I may mention Santa Ana, founded in 1635, San Isidro, 1687, and San Lazaro, 1775. The churches of the old Mendicant orders deserve especial attention, on account of their antiquity, and their relation to the ecclesiastical history of the coun- try. First among these, after San Francisco, is the Dominican church, one square north of the Plaza. The Catalog de los Eclesiasticos de Ambos Cleros,. the clerical directory of Chile, affirms, that the Dom- inicans were the first religious to establish themselves in Chile, but Roberto Lagos in his Eistoria de las Misiones del Colegio de Chilian , proves that the hon- or belongs to the Franciscans. At all events, the Dom- inicans soon followed, early in the second half of the sixteenth century. The old church of Santo Domingo was destroyed by fire, and the present large, and mas- sive edifice was erected in 1808. Next to the church is the monastery, but concealed from view by minor 232 Lands of the Southern Cross buildings on the street, from which you enter directly into a large courtyard. Of greater interest is the other Dominican church, much further north, at the foot of the Cerro de San Cristobal. This is the church belonging to the mon- astery of La Recolleccion Dormnicana, established in 1754, by Father Manuel de Acuna, as a strict reform of the order, though, from what I glean, it no longer observes to the letter its original austerity. This mon- astery, until recently, depending directly on the gen- eral of the order, was not subject to the provincial of Chile. The Fathers are said to be very wealthy. The church is surely one of the finest in Santiago, built in the Renaissance style, like most of the South American churches, with immense pillars of carrara marble, each consisting of three blocks, that were brought from Valparaiso in oxcarts, before the rail- road existed. The edifice is comparatively modern. The story is told, that Pope Pius IX. had sent a marble column for the altar of the old church, and that an altar was built expressly for the column. After it was finished, it apeared too beautiful for the church, and the decision was taken to put up a new building to match the altar, hence the splendid edifice, which was erected by the Fathers at their own expense. After the church, the principal object of interest is the large library, la Dominica, of which the cele- brated Father, Domingo Aracena, was, at one time, librarian. This distinguished writer completely ar- ranged the library that he found in great confusion,^ and which has been regarded as one of the best in Spanish America, not only for the number of volumes it contains, but, also, for their value. Father Ara- cena was a member of the University of Chile, of the The Church and Education in Chile 233 Koman Academy, and of the Episcopal Institute of Brazil. He died in 1874. From the church of the Recolleccion Dominicana, we may now retrace our steps, recrossing the Plaza de Armas, to pay a visit to that of the Augustinians. The Friars of this order came to Chile from Peru in 1595. Their present monastery stands on the old site where the "Calle del Estado" (State street), formerly "Calle del Key" (King street), meets the "Calle Au- gustinas.'^ The Augustinians share in the general wealth of the Mendicant orders, in spite of revolu- tions and confiscations that may have passed over the country. The side of the monastery on the Calle del Estado is entirely built up with dwellings, and stores, the rental of which is an abiding source of revenue for the convent. I must not forget to state, however, that a good use is made of their riches by these old orders in the gratuitous schools for the poor, which they conduct. The Augustinians have, also, a college for boys in their monastery, with a good cabinet of physics, and natural sciences. Although the church and monastery have suffered much from earthquakes, they are now in good condi- tion, the large courtyards producing quite a pleasing effect. Noteworthy is the floor of the sacristy, beauti- fully inlaid with wood, imported from the United States. A large crucifix is preserved in the church which, generally concealed from view, is exhibited, I believe, on Fridays. The crown of thorns is around the neck of the image, instead of on the head. Ac- cording to tradition, it fell thus, on the occasion of the great earthquake of Santiago, and it is the popular belief that when efforts have been made to replace it in its original condition, another earthquake has occurred. 234 Lands of the Southern Cross A custom quite general in Spanish America which is certainly repugnant to our tastes is that of dressing statues with cloth. It is very common to see cruci- fixes, with a piece of gaudy decoration around the loins of the '^Corpus," and I observed in one church, I feel quite sure that it was in the cathedral of Lima, a fine has-relievo work, thus tastelessly adorned with pieces of cloth. Still, if such things are in keeping with the tastes of the people, we have no right to complain, and still less to ridicule, remembering the old proverb de gustibus non est disputandum, "do not dispute about tastes;" for taste is not always amenable to reason. The crucifix in question is said to have been made by a religious, eminent for his virtues, but w^ho had no knowledge of sculpture. It stood in a chapel of the old church which, according to the chroniclers, was vast and sumptuous. At the earthquake of 1647, the entire edifice was destroyed, with the exception of the chapel in which this crucifix was venerated. It was then that the crown of thorns fell from the head to the neck. As the earthquake occurred on May 13, the image is known as El Senor de Mayo, "The Lord of May." On certain occasions it is carried through the streets of Santiago in procession.^ The order of La Merced, founded in Spain in the Middle Ages, with the object of redeeming Christian slaves from Mohammedan captivity, has always been very prominent in Spanish America. In fact, at the present time, it hardly exists anywhere else. The first Mercedarians to visit Chile were those who accom- panied Almagro. Their Chilean province was erected, and their convent in Santiago founded in 1566. At 3 Los Fralles en Chile al traves de los Siglos, H. R. Guinazu, p. 181. The Church and Education in Chile 235 the present time, they possess a considerable number of convents, scattered throughout the Kepublic. Their general. Father Pedro Armengol Valenzuela, who re- sides in Kome, is a native of Chile. The habit of the Mercedarians is entirely white, broken only by the little shield with the coat-of-arms of Aragon which they wear on their breast, and which serves as a re- minder of the days when they were first established by San Pedro Nolasco, aided by King James I. of Aragon. The large church of this order in Santiago de Chile shares with those of the Franciscans, Dominicans, and Augustinians the glory of having belonged to the old colonial days, when the religious orders labored so zealously for the conversion of the natives. It has been completely renovated, and the adjoining mon- astery with its courtyards, partakes of the general character of similar institutions in Latin America. The importance of the Society of Jesus in the edu- cational work of Spanish America, from the end of the sixteenth, to the latter portion of the eighteenth century, cannot be overestimated. Its sphere of influ- ence extended from Mexico to the southern limits of the continent, and from the Pacific to the Atlantic. The Fathers of this Society entered Chile from Peru in 1593, and, when the order was driven out of the Spanish dominions in 1767, it numbered in the former country at least 383 members, with twelve colleges, one novitiate, ten residences, and many missions among the Indians. The decree of expulsion was one of the cruellest it is possible to imagine, for, on the same day, throughout the dominions of Spain, all Jesuits, sick and well, were mercilessly transported. The first Jesuit church in Santiago, a small one, was begun about 1605, and in 1634, it was completed'; 236 Lands of the Southern Gross but the earthquake of 1647 nearly destroyed it. The church of the Compania, as I have said, stood near the present site of the building of Congress that oc- cupies that of the college, so renowned for its educa- tional work, and for the illustrious men that belonged to it, men, like Ovalle, Olivares, Molina, Lacunza, and Fuensalida who will live forever by their literary and scientific labors. At the present time, the Jesuits conduct the St. Ignatius College in Santiago, and a "Casa de Ejerci- cios," or house set apart for the spiritual exercises in Valparaiso, besides houses in other dioceses. The Fathers have been active in the Eepublic since 1843. To take the place of the old church of La Compania which was destroyed by fire in 1863, a magnificent edi- fice has been erected on an entirely different site, but it does not belong to the Jesuits. This is the church of "El Salvador." Chilean art may here be seen to advantage, as the statues were made by a native artist. The beautiful stained glass windows are Spanish, of Barcelona workmanship. As a modem edifice, the Salvador deserves to rank among the finest churches in America. It is one of the few Gothic churches of South America, the number of which is, however, on the increase. The decorations of the interior are gorgeous, with an abundance of gold, but the exterior is still unfinished. The tout ensernble is magnificent, and most imposing. Those interested in the ecclesiastical affairs of South America may well visit the church and house of the Redemptorists who have been active in Chile, since 1876. Their house is adorned with a fine courtyard. These Fathers, so zealous in the work of missions in South America, have, also, houses at San Bernardo The Church and Education in Chile 237 and Valparaiso in the diocese of Santiago, and in other dioceses of Chile. The Capuchin Fathers, who have various institu- tions in the dioceses of the country, take charge of the missions among the Araucanians in the south. Protestants are, also, to some extent active in Chile, for though the Catholic is the official religion, the exercise of others is permitted. There are several Protestant churches in the Eepublic, devoted to the interests of their co-religionists, the ministers of which, attending to their own people, are respected even by those differing from them in creed. But there are others who carry on a more or less obscure propa- ganda, especially by means of the tracts which they scatter broadcast. I understand that the Methodists and Presbyterians are, especially, active in this direc- tion. Between the two, they have about fifteen chapels in Santiago, and, according to their own estimate, sever- al thousand members. Their work is greatly among the poor, and their chapels, no matter how obscure, become easily proselytizing centres. These gentlemen should, however, remember, that though it is com- paratively easy to take away Catholicity from the Latins, it is by no means an easy task to put any other form of Christianity in its stead. They ought, there- fore, to weigh the tremendous responsibility they have assumed, and the danger they are running of working in harmony with infidelity, by robbing the people of their faith, without anything substantial to take its place. Of course, if their sole object is to destroy the Catholic faith, they will to a certain extent be successful; but such a negative work of destruction can only call forth the abhorrence of fair-minded men. I don't know what antidote the Catholic Church is using to counteract these influences, but the impres- 238 Lands of the Southern Cross sion made on me in South America was that the Cath- olic clergy are not alarmed at the danger of Protes- tantism spreading. In fact, I doubt whether they understand the extent of its operations. Modern Chili has been, perhaps above all things, remarkable for its strenuous efforts in the cause of education. Herein, it is equal to, if not in advance of any other country in Latin America. A brief re- view of the intellectual history of the country will mark the steps by which it has ascended to its present exalted position. In 1593, the year that the Jesuits arrived, there was only one private school in Santiago, directed by an in- competent individual who thus endeavored to gain a livelihood. The Friars who had been, for some years, occupied in the work of the ministry, and in the con- version of the natives, must have had their own schools in their convents, and, certainly, higher education was imparted in Chile, but means of primary instruction were lacking. Within three months after their arrival, the Jesuits had founded two primary schools, and, shortly after, they inaugurated a course of higher instruction with chairs of theology and philosophy. However, philoso- phy had been taught before the Jesuits came, the first professor of this science having been the Dominican Father, Acacio de Noveda. In 1611, the college of St. Francis Xavier was found- ed by the Jesuits, an institution that may be regarded as the cradle of public instruction in Chile.* In 1619, the Dominicans founded the Pontifical uni- versity of St. Thomas, in virtue of a bull of Pope Paul v., and, a century later. King Philip IV. estab- * See Memoria sobre la Produccion Intellectual en Chile, by Benjamin Vicuna Subercaseaux. The Church and Education in Chile 239 lished the university of St. Philip. In the meantime, diocesan seminaries had been in operation, that of the diocese of Concepcion, founded in the city of Con- cepcion, then called Imperial, before the year 1563, being the oldest in Chile. After the independence, education was one of the first things to occupy the attention of the men at the head of the state, a department of public insruction was created, and schools began to multiply in all direc- tions. Though not compulsory, education in Chile is gratuitous. At present, there are 2,215 elementary schools, with over 4,000 teachers and about 172,000 pupils. Further, the government subsidizes 118 pri- vate elementary schools. Primary schools are to be found in cities, towns, villages and even hamlets of only 300 inhabitants, and the society of the Escuela de Proletarios endeavors to extend the benefits of edu- cation to the poorest of the poor. Secondary instruction is imparted in the National Institute of Santiago, and in the lyceums that exist in every town of importance. The Instituto Nacional, with a splendid library, is the college, in which stu- dents are prepared for the university. It was founded in 1813. Chile has devoted great attention to pedagogy, hav- ing a number of normal schools for the training of teachers, the first of which was founded by President Manuel Montt. For a long time, the German peda- gogic system prevailed entirely, but, some years ago, the government engaged the services of two young ladies from this country, Miss Agnes Brown, a grad- uate of Ann Arbor, and Miss Caroline Burson, of St. Mary's, Indiana, to introduce the American system, to be used in some of the schools. The ladies have been quite successful in their undertaking. 240 Lands of the Southern Cross The state university of Chile has been developed from the old university of San Felipe. It is situated on the Alameda in Santiago. There exists, also, an institution, known as the university of Chile, founded in 1843 on the model of the College de France, divided into several faculties, which has as its object to cen- tralize, and direct the studies of the Kepublic. It was of this academic institution that Andres Bello was the first rector. With a wider scope than the ordi- nary routine university, it was solemnly inaugurated with a Te Deum, and a number of discourses. The Kepublic of Chile, is, also, rich in schools of mining, agriculture, industry, and commerce. At the Quinta Normal in Santiago of which I wrote in a previous chapter, is situated the National Agricultural Institute, in which various branches related to agri- culture are taught. Besides these, there are schools of music, and the fine arts, and institutions for the deaf, dumb and blind. Unlike some other countries, Chile has not banished religion from the schools, even though there are ten- dencies in some persons looking in that direction. Some of the larger institutions, like normal schools, have, also, a chaplain whose duty it is to impart relig- ious instruction. However, it is quite possible that the good effects of this religious teaching be neutral- ized by anti-religious teachers. In 1900, Archbishop Casanova wrote in one of his pastorals: '^It is true, that the law orders that religion shall be taught in the schools, but, thus far, the results have not been satisfactory. . . . With what right is it permitted among us that persons occupy profes- sional chairs, and direct public schools, who boast of their intention to wrench the faith from the people, and corrupt youth by education?'' The Church and Education in Chile 241 He, therefore, urges, according to the decrees of the Latin American Council, that parochial schools be established, at least one for each parish. Years previously, as early as 1870, the Society of Catholic Schools of St. Thomas of Aquin was founded in Santiago, with the object of promoting education upon a religious basis. Last year, the Society had twelve schools in operation, seven for boys and five for girls, besides a night school for adults. The dio- cese of Santiago has, also, its normal school for teach- ers, while the "Centro Cristiano," the diocesan council for primary instruction, directs education in the diocese. For higher education, the Catholic university was founded in Santiago by Archbishop Casanova in 1888. It is now a flourishing institution, with faculties of law, mathematics, agriculture and industry, civil en- gineering, and so forth. The university occupies two buildings, the one on the Calle de Augustinas, and the other on the Alameda de las Delicias. Theology is taught in the seminary of the Holy Guardian Angels in Santiago, and the institute known as the university of Chile counts, also, theology among its faculties. There are other Catholic institutions of instruction in the different dioceses of Chile of which it is need- less to treat here. From what I have said, we may infer, that, in proportion to its population, Chile, as far as education, secular and religious, is concerned, is one of the best equipped countries of South America. Chapter XVI. FKOM SANTIAGO TO CALLAO. On to Valparaiso — Vina del Mar — W. R. Grace & Co. — Earth- quakes — Cosmopolitan Character of Valparaiso — Battle of Valparaiso — The "Oravia" — Coquimbo — Serena — Wreck of the Blanco Encalada — Antofagasta — The Railway to Lake Titicaca — Nitrate Industry — Iquique — Arica — The War be- tween Chile and Peru — Mollendo — Difficulty of Landing — Deserted Islay — Guano Islands — Callao — Lima — The Hotel Maury. The morning of June 15 broke cold and damp. A welcome rain had fallen the previous night, the first rain in many months. At eight o'clock, I bade fare- well to Santiago, taking the ''rapido," the express train for Valparaiso. The trip costs fourteen pesos, and lasts a little over three hours. The scenery from Santiago northward, as your train runs between the two mountain ranges through the valley, is very beau- tiful. On your left, you have the maritime Cordillera, while the lofty range of the Andes stretches on your right. Passing some small towns, where the train «tops, you arrive again at Llai Llai, a little north of which you turn westward, the line first curving strongly northward. At Calera, you pass the junction of the line to the north. The most important town on your route is Quillota, the head of the department of that name, in the province of Valparaiso. The parish of Quillota is one of the oldest in Chile, as it is mentioned among Indian parishes, as early as 1585. Limache, between Quillota and Valparaiso, is another 242 From Santiago to Callao 248 old parish, dating at least from the early part of the seventeenth century. Before arriving at the city of Valparaiso, you pass through the fine watering place of Vina del Mar, with many beautiful villas, and several churches, among which are those of the Passionists, and the Dis- calced Carmelites. Viiia del Mar has been developed within the last forty years, becoming the fashionable seaside resort where a number of Santiago and Val- paraiso families have built themselves splendid villas, and where, in the summer months, fashion and ele- gance reign, the Grand Hotel being the fashionable stopping place for transients. Viiia del Mar is about five miles from Valparaiso. You obtain here your first view of the Pacific ocean, and steam on to Valparaiso, past Miramar, and a few other small places. Valparaiso, the "Valley of Paradise,'^ was thus named by Don Juan de Saavedra who accompanied the expedition of Almagro. Constantly exposed to the attacks of pirates and buccaneers, and captured by Drake in 1578, the early life of Valparaiso was very precarious. In 1791, the year it was created a muni- cipality, the population numbered only 4,000. Today Valparaiso is the chief commercial centre of Chile, and the most prominent seaport on the west coast of South America. The city is built in amphitheatre style on the hills to which you ascend by incline railways. It is very cosmopolitan, and every nationality is represented within it. English is spoken everywhere, and gener- ally understood. English names are found on the large commercial houses, although the employees are generally Chilean. Among the business places, I may be permitted to select two for honorable mention. 244 Lands of the Southern Cross especially as I enjoyed their courtesy. Messrs. Dun- can, Fox and Company are the agents for the Lam- port and Holt Line. They have also a house at Lima, Peru. I had my letters addressed to their care, and when an important cablegram reached them, after I had left the city, they kindly forwarded it for me to Lima. The other house is that of W. K. Grace and Com- pany. The founder of the company was the late Mr. W. R. Grace, who began his career, and his fortune in Peru. He was one of the pioneers of South Amer- ican trade, and, today, the company has establish- ments all along the coast. The Chilean branch is under the direction of Mr. John Eyre. I feel deep gratitude to W. R. Grace and Company, for their kindness to me through Mr. Molanphy in Santiago, and Mr. Chandler in Valparaiso. It was an American, Mr. William Wheelwright, whose influence began the first South American rail- way from Caldera to Copiapo, and caused the first steps to be taken toward connecting Buenos Aires with Valparaiso. He too organized the Pacific Steam Navigation Company in 1840. During the summer months, from January to March, the government transfers its headquarters from San- tiago to Valparaiso, the president and his cabinet re- siding at Vina del Mar. The population of Valpar- aiso is over 150,000. The city has been severely tried, even in our own age, by earthquakes, and by fire. The terrible earthquake of August 16, 1906, is still fresh, and Valparaiso has hardly yet recovered from its effects, although, when we reflect that about ninety per cent, of the houses are said to have been ruined, many of those that had escaped the earthquake being destroyed by fire, we cannot but admire the pluck and From Santiago to Callao 245 energy that have built up a new Valparaiso. Fortu- nately the number killed was comparatively small, probably from 500 to 1,000 or more, besides a large number hurt. Property loss was estimated at about £20,000,000 ($100,000,000). The seismic disturbance was not confined to Valparaiso, creating havoc in northern Chile generally, and being felt as far south as Concepcion. Santiago suffered greatly, and devas- tation was wrought on the slopes of the Cordilleras, at San Felipe and Los Andes. You will find a number of nationalities represented in the shipping of Valparaiso, and all vessels proceed- ing through the straits, and up the coast, naturally, stop there. It is a fine place for repairs, as there are two floating docks, capable of accommodating vessels up to four thousand tons' capacity. If you desire to spend a couple of days or more at Valaparaiso, it is important that you should make in- quiries regarding dates of sailing before leaving San- tiago; for, otherwise you may have to wait a week, or even longer, for an opportunity. Besides taking your chances of engaging passage on a cargo boat, say of the Lamport and Holt Line, or on one of the vessels of W. E. Grace and Company, with no definite prospect of making time, you have three regular lines, the Pacific Steam Navigation Company; the Compania Sud Americana de Vapores, a Chilean company; and the Kosmos Line, German. The two former will take you to Panama, if you change steamers at Callao, but the last named does not stop at Panama. For one who wishes to make a thorough study of the West coast, a cargo boat may offer a good opportunity, as it is apt to stop several days at the different ports. The steamboat fare from Valparaiso to Callao has 246 Lands of the Southern Cross recently been reduced to a uniform rate of £13 (165.00). Ships at Valparaiso lie out in the bay, and you hire a small boat to take yourself and baggage alongside your vessel. Should you, on arriving at Valparaiso, make close connections with your steamer, and have only a few hours to stay, you may deposit your hand baggage in a parcel room at the station, in considera- tion of a small fee. After engaging passage on the ^'Oravia," of the Pacific Steam [Navigation Company, I went on board, accompanied by an employee of W. K. Grace and Company, whom the manager had kindly sent with me. There is an American man-of-war, the North Carolina, lying in the harbor. The sight of the Stars and Stripes reminds me of past experiences of our navy at Valparaiso. During our war of 1812, the en- gagement recorded in our history between the United States frigate Essex and the British frigates, Phoebe and Cherub, took place off the promontory of Punta Gruesa, near Valparaiso. This unequal fight lasted two hours. The Essex was commanded by Admiral Por- ter, and one of her "middies" was the celebrated Far- ragut, who later in life, when referring to the engage- ment, compared the capture of Mobile as "a bit of child's play" to the dreadful slaughter of Valparaiso. It was, also, at Valparaiso that the unfortunate incident occurred, during the Balmaceda revolution in 1891-2, when a few American sailors were killed in the streets, an incident that threatened to bring about unpleasant complications between this country and Chile. The "Oravia" is a comfortable ship, with most gen- tlemanly officers, from Captain George U. Bindley down. The chief engineer, Mr. Kennedy, is a good- From Santiago to Callao 247 natured, and witty Scotchman, who tries to make everyone feel pleasant, and whose acquaintance with the coast furnishes quite a fertile source of informa- tion. The "Oravia" has just come from England, pass- ing through the straits. Her passengers are mostly natives, bound to different ports on the coast of Chile or Peru, but there is, also, a sprinkling of Americans. With this company, we leave Valparaiso to sail along the coast, almost constantly in sight of land, until we reach Callao, or, as the sailors say, "Callio." The snow-capped Cordilleras are in full view, shortly after leaving Valparaiso, and Aconcagua's hoary summit looms up far away, like the majestic head of a solitary giant of the mountains. Let us take a last look at him, for we shall see him no more after this. In a few hours, night wraps us in its folds, shutting out the land from view. The long Pacific swells that follow each other from the immense stretch of ocean on our left causes the ship to roll much, but I retire to my cabin to sink into that agreeable oblivion which comes as a re- lief to all the ills of humanity. My cabin is large, though irregular in shape, and somewhat obscure, but I may turn on the electric light, at any hour of the day or night. My room-mate happens to be an agreeable young American, Mr. Graham Clark, commercial agent of the Department of Commerce and Labor of our Government. He is bound for Anto- fagasta, where he is to take the train for Bolivia. I too had intended going to Bolivia, but the severe cold I contracted at Santiago has deterred me, and I fear to expose myself to the dangerous altitudes, hence I have taken passage directly to Callao. After leaving Valparaiso, we pass Quintero Bay with a good anchorage for ships and a village of about 248 Lands of the Southern Cross 900 inhabitants. Then follows Port Papudo in the heart of a fertile district, with copper and silver mines in its territory. Further on, you pass the villages of Quilmari and Vilos, and a few scattered islands off the coast. A railway leads from Vilos to Illapel, about twenty miles away. Steamers call here regularly, and the place is connected by telegraph with the rest of the world. Along the coast are scattered a number of small settlements, such as Nagu6 and Chigualoco. Further on, the town of Sougoi, a port of call for steamers, is connected by railroad with the copper mines of Tamaya. A little before arriving at Coquimbo, you pass Guay- acan with a population of 2,500, and large copper smelting works. After steaming all night, we dropped anchor in the morning at Coquimbo, one of the chief mercantile ports of Chile. It is a long town at the foot of a hill, with its houses straggling upwards, and depressions on both sides of the hill. A few steamers, and other vessels, among them a training ship of the Chilean navy, lay in the harbor, while boats and lighters were here and there seen ready to load and unload. Coquimbo is the seaport of Serena, the capital of Coquimbo pro- vince. Serena, with a population of twenty-five thousand, on the banks of the Coquimbo river, was founded, where it now stands, by Pedro de Valdivia. It is the chief centre of a district producing an abundance of tropical fruit, but its principal wealth lies in the ex- ploitation of copper, which is produced in this pro- vince, more than anywhere else in South America. The copper is exported through the port of Coquimbo. From Santiago to Gallao 249 Serena possesses ten churches, and several chapels. It was erected into a diocese in 1842. The present bishop, the Eight Reverend Ramon Angel Jara, who has been decorated with the insignia of the Spanish order of Isabel la Catolica, is one of the foremost ora- tors of South America. He was chosen to deliver the address before the Infanta Isabel in the church of Lujan, Argentine Republic, on the occasion when the princess presented a banner to the shrine of Our Lady of Lujan. Coquimbo, with a poulation of 7,500, was founded by Valdivia in 1544. There are three churches and several chapels in the city, and, from the deck of the steamer, you may observe at least one of the steeples. The shrine of the Virgin of the Rosary at AndacoUo, some distance from Coquimbo in the mountains, at- tracts a large number of pilgrims, especially at the Christmas season. The cliff above the town of Co- quimbo seems absolutely barren. Two or three streets run parallel through the entire length of the town, which has, also, a fine plaza. From the steamer, you will notice the Palace Hotel that looks quite large and modern. There is, also, an hospital in the town. You may, now and then, see the train running along the shore; for several railways start from Coquimbo which is, at present, the terminus of the line coming north from Valparaiso. It is still cold here, and I shall be obliged to wear my overcoat, almost until I arrive at Callao. The west coast of South America is much colder than that of the Atlantic, owing principally, to the Antarctic cur- rent which sweeps along, as far as the northern limits of Peru. Fogs often prevail on this coast, as far north as Guayaquil. In fact, on the coast of Peru, fogs are the rule.^ 1 See the South American Pilot, part II. 250 Lands of the Southern Cross As we leave the harbor of Coquimbo, our eyes will give a parting glance at the receding town, and, per- haps, rest longest on the peculiar landmark on the hill, built in the shape of a pyramid. We keep the barren mountains, saturated with mineral deposits on our right, while, here and there, we catch glimpses of the distant Cordilleras as, range upon range, they come sloping down to the sea. We now pass Bird Islands, inhabited only by the lighthouse keeper, Tot- oralillo, a smelting village, connected with other places by telephone, and Huasco, another copper dis- trict, with vineyards, and a population of 750. Fur- ther on, Carrizal Bajo, with a population of over 700, is a regular port of call for coasting steamers. Another stopping place for coastwise boats is Port Caldera, with a population of 2,500, having a tele- graph line, and railways to the interior. It exports principally minerals, such as gold, silver, copper, and manganese, but it has, also, commerce in skins. The great want of the place is water, that can only be obtained by condensing salt water, or bringing fresh water by rail. Caldera is the port for Copiap6, the capital of the province of Atacama, and the centre of a great gold and silver region. Situated about four hundred miles north of Valparaiso, it is the terminus of the first railway constructed in South America. It is said that the mineral wealth of this region was exploited by the Incas, long before the arrival of the Spaniards who, under Valdivia, first took possession of Chile in the valley of Copiap6 in 1540. The city, founded in 1744, is one of the most important of the Republic, although its population is scarcely more than twelve thousand. The wreck of the Chilean ironclad, Blanco Encalada, which figured conspicuously in the war with Peru From Santiago to Callao 251 lies at Caldera in eight fathoms of water. She was sunk here in 1891 by two torpedo boats of the Bal- maceda party, with a loss of 245 of her crew. The next ports we pass are Charaval, and Taltal, both connected by short railways with the interior of the country. About eight miles south of Anto- fagasta, lies the small nitrate port of Caleta Coloso that has grown up with the railway, connecting it with Antofagasta, in the harbor of which we cast our anchor about noon, two days after leaving Val- paraiso. As soon as the doctor's visit had taken place, the boatmen came tumbling up the ladder in swarms. The sea here, as all along the coast, is often very rough, and landing, generally, is quite difficult, the swells causing the little boats, and the lighters to rise sometimes almost to the bulwarks of the ship, and then to sink far down into the depths. The coast hills rise here above the town which lies spread out at their foot upon a sloping plain. Some enterprising merchants have utilized the hills back of the town to advertise several kinds of tea, ''Te Eatan puro," being especially noticeable. The same tea is, also, advertised on the row boats. The city, laid out in parallel lines, is divided by wide streets which can be distinctly seen from the steamer. The water front is lined by warehouses, and other business places. Stevenson & Company, steve- dores and ship chandlers who, also, sell "Te Eatan puro," seem to be the most prominent merchants. At least they are the most conspicuous by their adver- tisements. Two brothers, very much resembling each other, the Stevensons, who are Americans, came here with little or nothing, I am told, and now they are making money fast. I did not land, as my throat 252 Lands of the Southern Cross was paining too much, a result of the cold contracted in Santiago. Antofagasta has a population of 16,000. It is the port for Bolivia, though it now belongs to Chile. It was captured during the famous war waged in 1879 against the combined forces of Peru and Bolivia, but permitted to remain as the Pacific outlet for Bolivian commerce. This war had the result of adding materially to Chilean territory. The great Antofagasta railway begins here. It is a private enterprise of the greatest importance, as it opens up the very heart of the Andes, and the old country of the Incas. The gauge is only of two feet, and six inches, yet the day coaches and sleeping cars are said to be quite up-to-date, while the freight wagons carry a twenty-ton load. The line starts from Anto- fagasta, and follows a northeastern direction, begin- ning the ascent soon after its departure. At O'Hig- gins, three stations from Antofagasta, it strikes a branch road, going south to the nitrate fields of Bo- quete. Another branch is reached at Prat, which goes to Mejillones, a port on the Pacific recently opened by the Antofagasta Kailway Company. At Ollague, the line crosses the Bolivian frontier, and strikes an- other branch going north to the copper mines at Col- lahuasi. From here, the line continues northeast, until it reaches Uyuni, when it turns north to proceed to Oruro. After leaving Antofagasta, the railway passes through the principal nitrate district of this part of Chile, until the Andes come into full view. The summit of the main line from Antofagasta to Uyuni is at an altitude of 13,000 feet. The railway branch from Ollague station to Collahuasi is said to be the highest line of railway in the world, reaching, as it does, to a height of 15,809 feet. From Uyuni, a From Santiago to Gallao 253 private railway, connects with the Huanchaca silver mines, worked by a Franco-Chilean company. Oruro, where the line of the Antofagasta and Bolivia railway company ends, is a town situated about 12,000 feet above sea level, with silver and tin mines in the neighborhood. Bolivia is, probably, the country in the world richest in mineral wealth. At Oruro, you change for the trains of the Bolivia Raliway Company which is, also, managed by the Antofagasta railroad. You now proceed northwest, until you reach Viacha which lies on the road that, northward, goes to La Paz, and westward to Guaqui on Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable body of water on earth, at an altitude of over 12,000 feet. La Paz, the capital of Bolivia, is itself nearly 12,000 feet high. Ilimani, one of the loftiest Andean peaks, of 21,182 feet, is seen on the journey between Oruro and Viacha. To go to Cuzco in Peru, you return from La Paz by a railway, run by electric motor, to Guaqui on Lake Titicaca, where you take the steamer. The itinerary of the through sleeping train de luxe will give an idea of the length of the journey I have outlined. It leaves Antofagasta every Monday at 6.40 p. m., crosses the Bolivian frontier early the follow- ing afternoon, to arrive at Oruro at 8.28 a. m., on Wednesday. At Oruro you take the train at 9.10 a. m., to reach Patacamaya at 1 p. m., and have twen- ty-six minutes for lunch. You arrive at Viacha at 4.05 p. m., and, from Viacha to La Paz the distance is short. Should you wish to take a slower train, and go by easy stages, you may leave Antofagasta every day, except Sunday, at 7.50 a. m., arriving at Cuevitas at 11.52 for lunch. You reach Calama, 7,400 feet above sea level, in the evening about six, and here you break the journey, and spend the night, to leave the next 254 Lands of the Southern Cross morning at six. At 9.17, the train stops for lunch at San Pedro, and goes on further, until it reaches Uyuni, between 6 and 7 in the evening. You spend the night at Uyuni, a town of 5,000 inhabitants, many of whom are Indians. Here you will first meet with the llamas that travel in troops of one hundred or more to the silver and tin mines of Potosi, taking fifteen days to make the journey. They say that a llama will not move if his burden exceeds 100 pounds by the most trifling weight. You depart from Uyuni at 7.25 a. m., to reach Sevaruyo at 12.23 for lunch, and thence proceed to Oruro, where you arrive after five o'clock to spend another night. The following morning at 9.10 you continue the northward journey to Viacha, arriving there, a little after four in the afternoon. In the winter months, this journey may be unpleas- antly cold, and, at any season of the year, you may have to suffer from the mountain sickness, caused by the rarity of oxygen in the air. The trains of the Antofagasta Eailway company carry an oxygen ap- paratus of which the sufferer may avail himself. Let us now return to Antofagasta. The nitrate busi- ness is the most important here, the nitrate country beginning on this side of Coquimbo, and extending far to the north. From the sea, the coast appears most desolate, without a bit of vegetation. A num- ber of square rigged vessels, engaged in nitrate com- merce, are to be seen in the various ports of this coast. The people of Antofagasta have to depend on incoming ships for their supplies, as the country pro- duces nothing, and even drinking water has to be brought from a great distance in the mountains. This is a very serious matter. During the war with Peru, when the water supply was cut off in one of the From Santiago to Callao 255 coast towns, the inhabitants suffered for many hours horribly from thirst. Many people on the Chilean coast seem to bear an unenviable reputation among British seamen for thievery. The fast steamers, at least the English, are comparatively safe, as no one is permitted to go below, but, on the coasting vessels, the natives swarm everywhere, and it is hard, at any time, to be safe- guarded against robbery. It would not be safe to leave valuables in an exposed position, and, in port, it is better to lock the stateroom, should it contain goods of value. Antofagasta is said to be especially unsafe. It was related to me, that some weeks before my arrival, robbers had gone so far as to make a night attack on a German steamer. Fortunately, the man on watch gave the alarm in time, and the invad- ers were soon put to flight. From the deck of the steamer, I can make out two churches, one, to the south, built apparently in the old Spanish style, and the other, nearly in the centre, with the frame work of a tall steeple. There are, however, three churches in the city, and two chapels, one of the orphan asylum, and the other of the hos- pital. The vicariate apostolic of Antofagasta is gov- erned by a priest, Don Luis Silva Lezaeta. The vicar- iate is quite young, and, in fact, the port of Anto- fagasta dates only from 1870. As we lie here at anchor, I can see through the fog the rising ranges that lead up to the tremendous Cordilleras with their mysterious depths, and a still more mysterious past, and their great possibilities for the future. Antofagasta lies at the entrance to a bay. Hounding the headland, we pass out again into the open Pacific to proceed northward, leaving Mejillones, ensconced in a bay to the southeast. This is said to be the finest harbor on the Pacific coast, capable of 256 Lands of the Southern Cross holding all the fleets of the world, and thoroughly protected against gales from the southwest. It was opened, not long ago, by thfe Antofagasta Kailway Company. Further to the north, we pass another nitrate port, Tocopilla, with a population of 5,000, telegraph lines, and a railway to the interior. Steam- ers call here regularly. After passing a number of small places on the coast, we arrive at Iquique in the early morning. The city with a population of some 50,000, lies spread out on a flat surface, at the foot of the coast range. As we enter the harbor, I observe a good deal of shipping, with a number of large, square-rigged vessels. In the harbor, several sea lions, quite numerous on this part of the coast, are sporting. I had, also, observed them at Antofagasta. On the hills, back of the town, are large tracts of shifting sand, blown up by the wind, and advancing slowly year by year. Rain is very scarce here, if, at all, it can be said to exist, and, with the exception of some cactus, vegetation is exceedingly scanty. Like Antofagasta, Iquique depends for its supplies entirely on the outside world. Water is brought by pipes from Pica, a considerable distance in the in- terior. Iquique that formerly belonged to Peru is the greatest nitrate port of the world, the nitrate being generally shipped to Europe in sailing vessels. It is connected with the interior, and with other coast towns, by railway. The houses are mostly built of wood. The city possesses the electric tramway system. Ecclesiastically, Iquique belongs to the vicariate apostolic of TarapacA, which, in 1880, when the terri- tory passed over to Chile, was separated from the dio- cese of Arequipa in Peru. Iquique has, at least, five churches, and several chapels. One or two of the From Santiago to Callao 257 churches can be seen from the steamer. The city pos- sesses, also, an hospital, one of the many to be found in the towns all along the coast. As we proceed from Iquique northward, we observe, that in places along the shore, there is no sign of a beach, the perpendicular cliffs appearing to descend straight into the water. We are at about 20° S. L., but you cannot imagine that you are in the tropics, as it is so raw and foggy. About midway between Iquique and Pisagua, lies Caleta Buena, with a population of 2,500. It is con- nected by rail with a line running, more or less, parallel to the coast from Lagunas, a great deal south of Iquique, to Pisagua. This last city has a popula- tion of 3,000. The town was bombarded and burned in the war of 1879. I was told, that smallpox is often prevalent here. Another disease, of which many cases are to be found along the coast is bubonic plague, that seems to have become endemic in South America. At Camarones Cove, we pass a river the mouth of which has been blocked, the water, thus dammed, being employed to irrigate the surounding country. There is some agriculture here, as well as in the interior valleys. Further on, at Victor Gulley, another river is passed the mouth of which is, also, closed. Be neath the cliffs, in the cut, you catch a glimpse of vegetation, forming a striking contrast with the bar- ren hills you eye has grown accustomed to. Our next port is Arica. We ran into the harbor on a raw and foggy afternoon, more like a day in Octo- ber or November at home, than like one in the tropics. The object which will, above all, draw your atten- tion is the high promontory before the town, known as Arica Head. Here, during the war with Peru, stood a fort with powerful guns, while the landward 258 Lands of the Southern Cross side of Arica was protected by entrenchments and batteries. On the north, other batteries afforded pro- tection to the city. Early in June, 1879, Tacna to the north had been captured, and the Chileans marched down the railway to the sea. In the harbor of Arica, lay the Peruvian man-of-war, Manco Capac, and the Chilean ships that bombarded the town had been driven off without much difficulty. On the morning of June 7th, the attack on Arica from the land-side began, and, by 7 a. m., all but the Morro, or the fort on Arica Head, had been captured. The story told me about the capture of the Morro is, that, at night, the Chileans, proceeding from Victor Gulley, marched along the ridge, surprised the Peruvians, and drove them over the cliff, about 500 feet high, with tre- mendous slaughter. According to treaty, the people in the Arica dis- trict were, after the lapse of a certain number of 3^ears, to cast their vote, as to which nation they wished to belong. This has not yet been done, and, as the country has been filling up with Chileans, it is not likely that Chile will ever relinquish her hold of Arica. The city has a population of about three thousand. It is of considerable importance as the port of Tacna, the capital of the province, that lies more than twenty miles inland, to the north, with which it is connected by railroad. On a clear day, Tacna can be seen from the sea. To the east of it, are some of the highest peaks of the Andes. The town of Arica lies on flats in a small bay. After casting anchor, we were visited by a number of boatmen, fighting with each other to get to the top of the ladder first. There was a rough and tumble fight in one of the boats, and the next thing I expected THE MORRO;, ARICA^ CHILE From Santiago to Callao 259 was to see knives drawn, but the storm blew over, and the combatants were soon ready, it appeared, to give each other the kiss of peace. I observed two little girls coming alongside, with some gentlemen. After their boat had been tossed about a good deal, they were, finally, lifted to the platform, and left to climb the ladder, as best they could alone. We shall notice them again at MoUendo. At Arica, the coast turns strongly to the northwest, to reach finally the point where the South American continent, from Brazil to Peru, swells out to its wid- est proportions. We pass the town of Ylo, where coasting steamers call, and the fertile valley of Tambo. In clear weather, the volcano of Arequipa, 20,200 feet high, can be seen. The morning of June 19, raw and chilly, with a heavy fog hanging over the land, found us slowly steaming into the harbor of Mollendo, the first port of Peru. Mollendo has the reputation of being the Jop- pa of the west coast, the hardest port in which to land, sometimes more than others. Although, on this particular morning, a heavy swell was running, the sea did not appear exceedingly rough, and landing was comparatively easy, at least from the ship, though the surf was beating with tremendous fury on the shore. As usually, the boatmen came scrambling up the ladder, shouting at the top of their voice, to pick up such jobs as they could. Then the procession filed back, one man carrying in his arms with the greatest solicitude the doll of one of the little girls we had noticed at Arica. I watched the boat in which the girls were, as it was towed ashore by a launch, now vanishing behind the waves, then riding into sight 260 Lands of the Southern Cross again, until it disappeared, as it rounded the point on the breakwater, on its way to the wharf. The town of Mollendo, of recent construction, is stretched out on a bit of table land, at the foot of the hills. With a population of 5,000, Mollendo is the port of Arequipa, which lies inland at an altitude of 7,500 feet, at the foot of the extinct volcano Misti. Here begins the railroad to Cuzco, via Arequipa, and from Cuzco you may go by steamer on Lake Titicaca, to La Paz in Bolivia. The exports passing through Mollendo are, principally, alpaca, and sheep's wool, skins, coca leaves, bark, silver, tin, and copper ores. About half past ten, the sea was running high, and it became very difficult to ascend the ladder. It was necessary to wait until the boat rose on the swell, and then to make a spring to the platform. I observed a rather corpulent lady in her efforts to perform this feat, making several useless attempts, in spite of the aid of the men with her in the boat. Her pocketbook fell from her hands, fortunately on the platform, and, finally, she sank exhausted to the bottom of the little craft, becoming deadly sick. At last, after strenuous efforts, she succeeded in reaching the deck. At Mollendo, I had a conversation with my fellow traveller, Mr. McMillen who, as I have before stated, had had charge of the mule route across the Cumbre on the Andes. He informed me that there is some question of moving the statue of Christ and placing it where it may be seen from the railroad. To visit the spot where it now stands, you must engage mules either at Los Andes, or at Puente de Inca. As we leave Mollendo, we observe the deserted town of Islay, which was formerly the port of Arequipa ; but the building of the railroad at Mollendo was its nn- From Santiago to Callao 261 doing. The deserted houses may be seen from the ship, best through a glass. Before we reach the end of our journey, I wish to draw your attention to the multitude of birds on the west coast of South America, gulls, cormorants, peli- cans, and other endless varieties. Toward sunset, on the coast of Peru, as they go to roost, the rocks and small islands are literally black with them. It is these birds that furnish the guano of the Peruvian coasts. On our way up the coast, we passed the Paracas Peninsula, then San Gallan Island, and, finally, the Chincha Islands, known for their great accumulation of guano. For a short time, before reaching Callao, land is lost sight of, until San Lorenzo Island, at the mouth of the harbor, looms up. Though we had raced to get in to Callao before sunset, we did not reach the harbor, until a little after six in the even- ing, with the result, that though the doctor visited us, no one was permitted to land, until the next morning, and we spent one more night on the good ship Oravia. After breakfast on June 21, I engaged my boatman, and steered for the landing place. For taking me ashore, caring for my baggage, and accompanying me to Lima in the electric car, I paid my boatman four sols and a half. The Peruvian sol is worth approxi- mately fifty cents of our money. Peru, unlike other countries of South America, possesses much gold cur- rency, its gold pound being the equivalent of the pound sterling. On my arrival at Lima, I went at once to the Hotel Maury, a large, damp house with dark suites, of vari- ous prices according to size and location. Each guest obtains a parlor and bedroom, but the baths are for 202 Lands of the Southern- Cross common use. Prices range from six sols (|3) a day up. One of the greatest inconveniences is the dark- ness, especially as the electric current is turned off during the day. My suite consisted of a little parlor, bedroom, and small alcove with a balcony, overlook- ing the Plaza. From my balcony, I had a full view of the cathedral, just across the street, and I might con- jure up the many historic scenes of the old Plaza, from the day when Pizarro died in the building opposite, down to the present time. Chapter XVII. PERU. Geography — History — Population — Government — Resources — Mines — Agriculture — Climate — Cities — Investments — Rail- roads. Peru^ at one time the most important colony of the vast dominions upon which the sun never set, the golden dream of every Spaniard, the elegant and re- fined seat of the first vice-royalty in the New World, Peru is now, after a series of revolutions, and wars, one of the most promising republics of America. Bounded on the north by Ecuador and Columbia, on the east by Brazil and Bolivia, on the south by Chile, and, on the west, by the Pacific Ocean, Peru extends from latitude south 1° 29' to S. L. 19° 13', with a coastline of about 1,300 miles. The area of the coun- try is about 697,640 square miles, divided into the coast, the highlands, and the forest regions. The coast extends to the f'