. . 
 
 -.-. 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 I
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 TEAYEL3 II AMERICA 
 
 TWO LECTURES DELIVERED TO THE LEEDS MECHANICS 
 
 INSTITUTION AND LITERARY SOCIETY, 
 
 DECEMBER STH AND GTH, 1850. 
 
 BY 
 THE RIGHT HONORABLE 
 
 THE EARL OF CARLISLE, 
 
 (LORD MORPETH.) 
 
 NEW-YOKE: : 
 
 G. P. PUTNAM, 155 BROADWAY. 
 1851.
 
 BAKER, GODWIN & Co., Printers, 
 No. 1 Spruce St., New- York.
 
 Its' 
 
 TO THE MEMBERS OP THE 
 YORKSHIRE UNION OF MECHANICS' INSTITUTES, 
 
 BEFORE A BRANCH OP WHICH 
 
 THESE LECTURES WERE READ, 
 
 THEY ARE NOW RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, 
 BY THEIR ASSOCIATE AND WELL-WISHER, 
 
 CARLISLE. 
 Christmas, 1850. 
 
 1179568
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 IT may be known to some of those whom I have the 
 pleasure to see around me, that when circumstances 
 to which I need not further allude, occasioned a breach, 
 temporary indeed, and soon repaired, in my connection 
 with the West Riding of Yorkshire, when, as the 
 phrase goes, some of your neighbors, and probably 
 of yourselves, had given me leave to go upon my tra- 
 vels, I thought I could make no better use of this 
 involuntary leisure than by acquiring some personal 
 knowledge of the United States of America. I ac? 
 cordingly embarked in the autumn of the year 1841, 
 and spent about one whole year in North America, 
 having within that period passed nearly over the 

 
 6 TKAVKLS IN AMERICA. 
 
 length and breadth of the Republic, trod at least the 
 soil of twenty-two out of the twenty-six States of 
 which the Union was then composed, and paid short 
 visits to the Queen's dominions in Canada, and to the 
 Island of Cuba. I determined to keep a journal dur- 
 ing my travels, and only at the end of them to decide 
 what should become of it when it was completed. I 
 found it was written in too hurried and desultory a man- 
 ner, and was too much confined to my own daily pro- 
 ceedings, to make it of interest to the public at large ; 
 still more strongly I felt that after having been re- 
 ceived with uniform civility and attention, nay, I may 
 say, with real warmth and openness of heart, I should 
 not wish, even where I had nothing but what was most 
 favorable to communicate, immediately to exhibit my- 
 self as an inquisitive observer of the interior life to 
 which I had been admitted ; and this very feeling 
 would probably have disqualified me for the office of 
 an impartial critic. Now, however, that above eight 
 years have elapsed since my return, in turning over 
 the pages then written, it has seemed to me allowable 
 tp endeavor, for a purpose like the present, to convey
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 7 
 
 a few of the leading impressions which I derived from 
 the surface of nature and society as they exhibited 
 themselves in the New World. 
 
 It must follow necessarily from such limits as could 
 be allowed to me on an occasion of this kind, that any 
 account which I can put together from materials so 
 vast and so crowded, must be the merest superficial 
 skimming of the subject that can be conceived. All I 
 can answer for is, that it shall be faithful to the feel- 
 ings excited at the moment, and perfectly honest as far 
 as it goes. I must premise one point with reference 
 to what I have just now glanced at, the use of indi- 
 vidual names. I came in contact with several of the 
 public men, the historical men they will be, of the 
 American Republic. I shall think myself at liberty 
 occasionally to depart in their instance from the rule 
 of strict abstinence which I have otherwise prescribed 
 to myself, and to treat them as public propeily, so long 
 as I say nothing to their disadvantage. On the other 
 hand, the public men of the United States are not 
 created faultless beings, any more than the public men 
 of other countries ; it must not, therefore, be consid-
 
 8 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 ered when I mention with pleasure any thing which 
 redounds to their credit, that I am intending to present 
 you with their full and complete portraits. 
 
 It was on the 21st day of October, upon a bright 
 crisp morning, that the Columbia steam-packet, upon 
 which I was a passenger, turned the lighthouse outside 
 the harbor of Boston. The whole effect of the scene 
 was cheerful and pleasing ; the bay is studded with 
 small islands, bare of trees, but generally crowned 
 with some sparkling white building, frequently some 
 public establishment. The town rises well from the 
 water, and the shipping and the docks wore the look 
 of prosperous commerce. As I stood by some Ameri- 
 can friends acquired during the voyage, and heard 
 them point out the familiar villages, and villas, and in- 
 stitutions, with patriotic pleasure, I could not alto- 
 gether repress some slight but not grudging envy of 
 those who were to bring so long a voyage to an end 
 in their own country, amidst their own family, within 
 their own homes. I am not aware I ever again expe- 
 rienced, during my whole American sojourn, the pecu- 
 liar feeling of the stranger. It was, indeed, dispelled
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 9 
 
 at the moment, when their flag ship, the Columbus, 
 gave our Columbia a distinguished, and, I thought, 
 touching reception ; the crew manned the yards, cheer- 
 ed, and then the band played, first " God Save the 
 Queen," and then " Yankee Doodle." I spent alto- 
 gether, at two different intervals, about a month in 
 Boston. 
 
 I look back with fond recollection to its well-built 
 streets the swelling dome of its State-House the 
 pleasant walks on what is termed the common a park, 
 in fact, of moderate size, in the centre of the city, 
 where I made my first acquaintance with the bright 
 winter sunsets of America, and the peculiar transpa- 
 rent green and opal tints which stripe the skies around 
 them the long wooden causeways across the inner 
 harbor, which rather recalled St. Petersburgh to my 
 recollection the newly-erected granite obelisk on a 
 neighboring height, which certainly had no affinity 
 with St. Petersburgh, as it was to mark the spot, sa- 
 cred to an American, of the battle of Bunker's Hill 
 the old elm tree, at the suburban university of Cam- 
 bridge, beneath which Washington drew his sword in 
 1*
 
 10 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 order to take command of the national army the 
 shaded walks and glades of Mount Auburn, the beau- 
 tiful cemetery of Boston, to which none that we yet 
 have can be compared, but which I trust before long 
 our Chadwicks and Paxtons may enable us to imitate, 
 and perhaps to excel. These are some of my external 
 recollections of Boston ; but there are some fonder 
 still, of the most refined and animated social inter- 
 course of hospitalities which it seemed impossible to 
 exhaust of friendships which I trust can never be ef- 
 faced. Boston appears to me, certainly, on the whole, 
 the American town in which an Englishman of culti- 
 vated and literary tastes, or of philanthropic pursuits, 
 would feel himself most at home. The residence here 
 was rendered peculiarly agreeable to me by a friend- 
 ship with one of its inhabitants, which I had previ- 
 ously made in England ; he hardly yet comes within 
 my rule of exception, but I do not give up the notion 
 of his becoming one of the historical men of his coun- 
 try. However, it is quite open for me to mention some 
 of those with whom, mainly through his introduction, 
 I here became acquainted. There was Mr. Justice
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 11 
 
 
 
 Story, whose reputation and authority as a commenta- 
 tor and expounder of law, stand high wherever law is 
 known or honored, and who was, what at least is more 
 generally attractive, one of the most generous and sin- 
 gle-hearted of men. He was an enthusiastic admirer 
 of this country, especially of its lawyers; how he 
 would kindle up and flow on if he touched upon Lord 
 Hard wick or Lord Mansfield " Sir," as an American 
 always begins, " on the prairies of Illinois this day 
 Lord Mansfield administers the law of commerce." 
 He had also a very exalted opinion of the Judgments 
 of Lord Stowell, which his own studies and practice 
 had led him thoroughly to appreciate; and I may 
 permit myself to say that he had formed a high esti- 
 mate of the judicial powers of Lord Cottenham. I 
 must admit one thing, when he was in the room few 
 others could get in a word ; but it was impossible to 
 resent this, for he talked evidently not to bear down 
 others, but because he could not help it. Then there 
 was Dr. Channing. I could not hear him preach, as 
 his physical powers were nearly exhausted ; but on 
 one or two occasions I was admitted to his house.
 
 12 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 You found a fragile frame, and a dry manner, but you 
 soon felt that you were in a presence in which nothing 
 that was impure, base, or selfish could breathe at ease. 
 There was the painter, Alston, a man of real genius, 
 who suffices to prove that the domain of the fine arts, 
 though certainly not hitherto the most congenial to 
 the American soil, may be successfully brought, to use 
 their current phrase, into annexation with it. These, 
 alas ! have since my visit, all been taken away. In 
 the more immediate department of letters there are 
 happily several who yet remain Mr. Bancroft, the 
 able and accomplished historian of his own country 
 Mr. Ticknor, who has displayed the resources of a well- 
 stored and accomplished mind in his recent work on 
 the literature of Spain Mr. Longfellow, with whose 
 feeling and graceful poetry many must be acquainted 
 Mr. Emerson, who has been heard and admired in this 
 country and I crown my list with Mr. Prescott, the 
 historian of Ferdinand and Isabella, of Mexico and of 
 Peru, with respect to whom, during the visit he paid 
 to England in the past summer, I had the satisfaction 
 of witnessing how all that was most eminent in this
 
 TRAVELS IN AMEKICA. 13 
 
 country confirmed the high estimate I had myself 
 formed of his head, and the higher one of his heart. 
 
 The public institutions of Boston are admirably con- 
 ducted. The Public or Common Schools there, as I 
 believe in New-England generally, are supported by a 
 general rate, to which all contribute, and all may pro- 
 fit by. I am not naturally now disposed to discuss the 
 question, how far this system would bear being trans- 
 planted and ingrafted on our polity ; but it would be 
 uncandid if I did not state that the universality of the 
 instruction, and the excellence of what fell under my 
 own observation, presented to my mind some mortify- 
 ing points of contrast with what we have hitherto ef- 
 fected at home. It is well known that a large propor- 
 tion of the more wealthy and cultivated part of the 
 society of Boston belong to the Unitarian persuasion ; 
 but a considerable number of the middle classes, and 
 especially of the rural population of New-England, 
 comprising the six Northern States of the Union, still 
 retain much of the Puritan tenets and habits of their 
 immediate ancestors, their Pilgrim Fathers. Before 
 I leave Boston, let me add one observation on a lighter
 
 14 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 topic. I lodged at the Tremont Hotel, which was ad- 
 mirably conducted, like very many of those imposing 
 establishments in the chief cities of the Union. Here 
 I learnt that one is apt to receive false impi-essions at 
 first ; I was struck with the clean, orderly, agile ap- 
 pearance of the waiters. " The Americans beat us 
 hollow in waiters," was my inner thought ; on inquir- 
 ing I found that of the twenty-five waiters in the house, 
 four were English and twenty-one Irish. I could not 
 help wishing that a large number of the Irish might 
 come and be waiters for a little while. 
 
 Within three or four days of my landing I grew im- 
 patient to see the Falls of Niagara without loss of 
 time ; if any sudden event should have summoned me 
 home, I felt how much I should have grudged cross- 
 ing the Atlantic without having been at Niagara, and 
 I also wished to look upon the autumn tints of the 
 American Forest, before the leaves, already beginning 
 to fall, had entirely disappeared. The Western Rail- 
 way, which appeared to me the best constructed that 
 I saw in America, took me to Albany, a distance of 
 200 miles. The railway carriages, always there called
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 15 
 
 cars, consist of long rooms, rather like a dining-room 
 of a steam-packet, with a stove inside, often a most 
 desirable addition in the American winter, and you can 
 change your seat or walk about as you choose. They 
 are generally rougher than our railways, and the whole 
 getting up of the line is of a ruder and cheaper cha- 
 racter ; they do not impede the view as much as with 
 us, as they make no scruple of dashing across or along- 
 side of the main street in the towns or villages through 
 which they pass. But I ought to remark about this 
 as about every thing else, that the work of progress 
 and transformation goes on with such enormous rapidi- 
 ty, that the interval of eight years since my visit will 
 probably have made a large portion of my remarks 
 thoroughly obsolete. The New-England country 
 through which we passed looks cheerful, interspersed 
 with frequent villages and numerous churches bear- 
 ing the mark at the same time of the long winter and 
 barren soil with which the stout Puritan blood of Brit- 
 ain has so successfully contended ; indeed, the only 
 staple productions of a district which supplies seamen 
 for all the Union, and ships over all the world, are
 
 16 TRAVELS IX AMERICA. 
 
 said to be ice and granite. Albany is the capital of 
 the state of I^ew-York, the Empire State, as its in- 
 habitants love to call it, and it is a name which it de- 
 serves, as fairly as our own old Yorkshire would deserve 
 to be called the Empire Comity of England. It is ra- 
 ther an imposing town, rising straight above the Hud- 
 son river, gay with some gilded domes, and many 
 white marble columns, only they are too frequently ap- 
 pended to houses of very staring red brick. From 
 Albany to Utica the railroad follows the stream of the 
 Mohawk, which recalls the name of the early Indian 
 dwellers in that bright valley, still retaining its swell- 
 ing outline of wood-covered hills, but gay with pros- 
 perous villages and busy cultivation. I was perhaps 
 still more struck the next evening, though it was a 
 more level country, where the railway passes in the 
 midst of the uncleared or clearing forest, and suddenly 
 bursts out of a pine glade or cedar swamp into the 
 heart of some town, probably four, three, or two years 
 old, with tall white houses, well lighted shops, billiard- 
 rooms, &c. ; and emerging, as we did, from the dark 
 shadows into the full moonlight, the wooden spires,
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 17 
 
 domes, and porticoes of the infant cities looked every 
 bit as if they had been hewn out of the marble quar- 
 ries of Carrara. I am aware that it is not the received 
 opinion, but there is something both in the outward 
 aspect of this region and the general state of society 
 accompanying it, which to me seemed eminently poeti- 
 cal. What can be more striking or stirring, despite 
 the occasional rudeness of the forms, than all this en- 
 terprise, energy, and life welling up in the desert? 
 At the towns of Syracuse, of Auburn, and of Roches- 
 ter, I experienced the sort of feeling which takes away 
 one's breath ; the process seemed actually going on 
 before one's eyes, and one hardly knows whether to 
 think it as grand as the Iliad, or as quaint as a harle- 
 quin farce. I will quote the words I wrote down at 
 the time : 
 
 " The moment is not come for me yet, if it ever 
 should come, to make me feel myself warranted in 
 forming speculations upon far results, upon guarantees 
 for future endurance and stability : all that I can now 
 do is to look and to marvel at what is before my eyes. 
 I do not think I am deficient in relish for antiquity and
 
 18 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 association ; I know that I am English, not in a pig- 
 headed adhesion to every thing there, but in heart to 
 its last throb. Yet I cannot be unmoved or callous to 
 the soarings of Young America, in such legitimate and 
 laudable directions too ; and I feel that it is already not 
 the least bright, and may be the most enduring title of 
 my country to the homage of mankind, that she has 
 produced such a people. May God employ them both 
 for his own high glory !" 
 
 I am bound here in candor to state that I think 
 what I first saw in America was, with little exception, 
 the best of its kind ; such was the society of Boston 
 such was the energy of progress in the western portion 
 of the State of New- York. 
 
 At Rochester, an odd coincidence occurred to me, 
 striking enough I think to be mentioned, though it only 
 concerned myself. After the arrival of the railway 
 carriage, and the usual copious meal of tea and meat 
 that ensues, I had been walking about the town, which 
 dates only from 1812, and then contained 20,000 in- 
 habitants, and as I was returning to the hotel, I saw 
 the word Theatre written up. Wishing to see every
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 19 
 
 thing in a new country, I climbed up some steep stairs 
 into what was little better than a garret, where I found 
 a rude theatre, and ruder audience, consisting chiefly 
 of boys, who took delight in pelting one another. 
 There was something, however, at which I had a right 
 to feel surprised. In a playhouse of strollers, at a town 
 nearly five hundred miles in the interior of America, 
 which, thirty years before, had no existence, thus 
 coming in by the merest chance, I saw upon the drop- 
 scene the most accurate representation of my own 
 house, Naworth Castle, in Cumberland. 
 
 A great improvement has recently occurred in the 
 nomenclature of this district ; formerly a too classical 
 surveyor of the State of New- York had christened I 
 used the wrong term, had heathenized, to make a new 
 one, all the young towns and villages by the singu- 
 larly inapplicable titles of Utica, Ithaca, Palmyra, 
 Rome ; they are now reverting to the far more appro- 
 priate, and, I should say, more harmonious Indian 
 names, indigenous to the soil, such as Oneida, Onon- 
 daga, Cayuga. 
 
 I thought my arrival at Niagara very interesting.
 
 20 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 We had come to Lockport, where there is a chain of 
 magnificent locks, on the Erie Canal, one of the great 
 public works of America, and which has done much to 
 enrich this Empire State of New- York. The surplus 
 of the receipts enabled them to execute a variety of 
 other public works. We arrived too late for the usual 
 public conveyance. The proprietor of the stage coach 
 agreed to give me, with one or two other Englishmen, 
 a lumber wagon to convey us to the Falls. The Colonel, 
 for he was one, as I found the drivers of the coaches 
 often were, drove his team of four horses himself. I 
 generally found the stage-coach driving in the United 
 States indescribably rough, but the drivers very adroit 
 in their steerage, and always calling their horses by 
 their names, and addressing them as reasonable beings, 
 to which they seemed quite to respond. Altogether, 
 the strangeness of the vehicle, the cloudless beauty of 
 the night, the moonlight streaming through the forest 
 glades, the meeting a party of the Tuscarora Indians, 
 who still have a settlement here, the first hearing the 
 noise of Niagara about seven miles off, and the growing 
 excitement of the nearer approach, gave to the whole
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 21 
 
 drive a most stirring and enjoyable character. When 
 I arrived at the hotel", the Cataract House, I would not 
 anticipate by any moonlight glimpses the full disclo- 
 sures of the coming day, but reserved my first visit for 
 the clear light and freshened feelings of the morning. 
 I staid five days at Niagara on that occasion ; I visited 
 it again twice, having travelled several thousands of 
 miles in each interval. I have thus looked upon it in 
 the late autumn, in the early spring, and in the full 
 summer. Mrs. Butler, in her charming work on 
 America, when she comes to Niagara says only, " Who 
 can describe that sight ?" and, with these words, fin- 
 ishes her book. There is not merely the difficulty of 
 finding adequate words, but there is a simplicity and 
 absence, as I should say, of incidents in the scenery, 
 or, at least, so entire subordination of them to the main 
 great spectacle, that attempts at description would 
 seem inapplicable as well as impotent. Nevertheless I 
 have undertaken, however inadequately, the attempt to 
 place before you the impressions which I actually de- 
 rived from the most prominent objects that I saw in 
 America. How, then, can I wholly omit Niagara?
 
 22 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 The first view neither in the least disappointed, or sur- 
 prised, but it wholly satisfied me. I felt it to be com- 
 plete, and that nothing could go beyond it ; volume, 
 majesty, might, are the first ideas which it conveys ; on 
 nearer and more familiar inspection I appreciated other 
 attributes and beauties the emerald crest the seas of 
 spray the rainbow wreaths. Pictures and panoramas 
 had given me a correct apprehension of the form and 
 outline ; but they fail, for the same reason as language 
 would, to impart an idea of the whole effect, which is 
 not picturesque, though it is sublime ; there is also the 
 technical drawback in painting of the continuous mass 
 of white, and the line of the summit of the Fall is as 
 smooth and even as a common mill-dam. Do not 
 imagine, however, that the effect could be improved 
 by being more picturesque ; just as there are several 
 trivial and unsightly buildings on the banks, but Niagara 
 can be no more spoiled than it can be improved. You 
 would, when on the spot, no more think of complaining 
 that Niagara was not picturesque, than you would re- 
 mark, in the shock and clang of battle, that a trumpet 
 sounded out of tune. Living at Niagara was not like
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 23 
 
 ordinary life ; its not over loud, but constant solemn 
 roar, has in itself a mysterious sound : is not the highest 
 voice to which the Universe can ever listen, compared 
 by inspiration to the sound of many waters? The 
 whole of existence there has a dreamy but not a frivo- 
 lous impress ; you feel that you are not in the common 
 world, but in its sublimest temple. 
 
 I naturally left such a place and such a life with 
 keen regret, but I was already the last visitor of the 
 year, and the hotels were about to close. I was told 
 that I had already been too late for the best tints of 
 autumn (or fall, as the Americans picturesquely term 
 that season), and that they were at no time so vivid 
 that year as was usual ; I saw, however, great richness 
 and variety of hue ; I think the bright soft yellow of 
 the sugar maple, and the dun red of the black oak, 
 were the most remarkable. These and the beech, the 
 white cedar, the hemlock spruce, the hickory, with oc- 
 casionally the chestnut and walnut, seemed the pre- 
 vailing trees in all this district. I can well imagine a 
 person being disappointed in the American Forest; 
 trees, such as those at Wentworth and Castle Howard
 
 24 
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 (may I say ?) seem the exception, and not the rule. 
 The mass of them run entirely to height, and are too 
 thick together, and there is a great deal too much dead 
 fir ; still there is a great charm and freshness in the 
 American forest, derived partly perhaps from associa- 
 tion, when you look through the thick tracery of its 
 virgin glades. 
 
 On my going back I paid two visits at country 
 houses ; one to an old gentleman, Mr. Wadsworth, 
 most distinguished in appearance, manner, and under- 
 standing, who had settled where I found him fifty years 
 before, when he had not a white neighbor within thirty 
 miles, or a flour mill within fifty ; he lived entirely sur- 
 rounded by Indians, who have now disappeared. On 
 some occasion, there had been a review of a corps of 
 militia. A neighboring Indian Chief had been present, 
 and was observed to be very dejected ; Mr. Wadsworth 
 went up to him, and offered refreshment, which was 
 usually very acceptable, but he declined it. Upon be- 
 ing pressed to say what was the matter, he answered 
 with a deep sigh, pointing to the east, " You are the 
 rising sun" then to the west, "We are the setting."
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 25 
 
 The face of the country is now, indeed, changed ; a 
 small flourishing town, the capital of the county, 
 stretches from the gate ; and the house overlooks one 
 of the richest and best cultivated tracts in America, the 
 valley of the Genesee. I fancy that quotations of 
 the price of Genesee wheat are familiar to the fre- 
 quenters of our corn markets. My host was one of 
 the comparatively few persons in the United States 
 who have tenants under them holding farms ; among 
 them I found three Yorkshiremen from my own 
 neighborhood, one of whom showed me what he called 
 the gainest way to the house, which I recognized as a 
 genuine Yorkshire term ; he told me that his landlord 
 was the first nobleman in the country, which is clearly 
 not an Americanism. While on this topic I may men- 
 tion that, on another occasion, I was taken to drink tea 
 at a farmer's house in New England. We had been 
 regaled most hospitably, when the farmer took the 
 friend who had brought me aside, and asked what part 
 of England Lord Morpeth came from ? " From York- 
 shire, I believe," said my friend. "Well, I should not 
 2
 
 6 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 have thought that from his manner of talking," was 
 the reply. 
 
 My other visit was to Mr. Van Buren, who had been 
 the last President of the United States, and who, I 
 suspect, shrewdly reckoned on being the next. It 
 seemed, indeed, at that time to be the general expecta- 
 tion among his own, the Democratic, or as they were 
 then commonly called, the Loco-foco party. He was 
 at that time living on his farm of Kinderhook ; the 
 house was modest and extremely well ordered, and 
 nothing could exceed the courtesy or fulness of his 
 conversation. He abounded in anecdotes of all the 
 public men of his country. In his dining room were 
 pictures of Jefferson and General Jackson, the great 
 objects of his political devotion. On my return through 
 Albany, I had an interview with Mr. Seward, then for 
 the second time Governor of the State of New- York. 
 I find that I noted at the time, that he was the first 
 person I had met who did not speak slightingly of the 
 Abolitionists ; he thought they were gradually gaining 
 ground. He had already acted a spirited part on 
 points connected with slavery, especially in a contest
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 27 
 
 with the Legislature of Virginia concerning the delivery 
 of fugitive slaves. 
 
 I approached the city of New- York by the Hudson. 
 The whole course of that river from Albany, as seen 
 from the decks of the countless steamers that ply along 
 it, is singularly beautiful, especially where it forces a 
 passage through the barriers of the Highlands, which, 
 however, afford no features of rugged grandeur like our 
 friends in Scotland ; but though the forms are steep 
 and well-defined, their rich green outlines of waving 
 wood, inclosing in smooth many-curved reaches the 
 sail-covered bosom of the stately river, present nothing 
 but soft and smiling images. I then took up my win- 
 ter quarters at New- York. I thought this, the com- 
 mercial and fashionable, though not the political capital 
 of the Union, a very brilliant city. To give the best 
 idea of it, I should describe it as something of a fusion 
 between Liverpool and Paris crowded quays, long 
 perspectives of vessels and masts, bustling streets, gay 
 shops, tall white houses, and a clear brilliant sky over- 
 head. There is an absence of solidity in the general 
 appearance, but in some of the new buildings they are
 
 28 . TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 successfully availing themselves of their ample re- 
 sources in white marble and granite. At the point of 
 the Battery, where the long thoroughfare of Broadway, 
 extending some miles, pushes its green fringe into the 
 wide harbor of New-York, with its glancing waters 
 and graceful shipping, and the limber, long, raking 
 masts, which look so different from onr own, and the 
 soft swelling outline of the receding shores ; it has a 
 special character and beauty of its own. I spent about 
 a month here very pleasantly ; the society appeared to 
 me on the whole to have a less solid and really refined 
 character than that of Boston, but there is more of an- 
 imation, gayety, and sparkle in the daily life. In point 
 of hospitality, neither could outdo the other. Keeping 
 to my rule of only mentioning names which already 
 belong to fame, I may thus distinguish the late Chan- 
 cellor Kent, whose commentaries are well-known to 
 professional readers. He had been obliged, by what I 
 think the very unwise law of the State of New- York, 
 to retire from his high legal office at the premature age 
 of sixty, and there I found him at seventy-eight, full of 
 animation and racy vigor, which, combined with great
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 29 
 
 simplicity, made his conversation most agreeable. 
 Washington Irving, a- well-known name both to Amer- 
 ican and English ears, whose nature appears as gentle 
 and genial as his works I cannot well give higher 
 praise: Mr. Bryant, in high repute as a poet, and 
 others. I had the pleasure of making acquaintance 
 with many of the families of those who had been the 
 foremost men in their country, Hamiltons, Jays, Liv- 
 ingstons. I lodged at the Astor House, a large hotel 
 conducted upon a splendid scale ; and I cannot refrain 
 from one, I fear rather sensual, allusion to the oyster 
 cellars of New-York. In no part of the world have I 
 ever seen places of refreshment as attractive every 
 one seems to eat oysters all day long. What signifies 
 more, the public institutions and schools are there also 
 extremely well conducted. The churches of the dif- 
 ferent denominations are very numerous and well filled. 
 It is my wish to touch very lightly upon any point 
 which among us, among even some of us now here, 
 may be matter of controversy ; I, however, honestly 
 think that the experience of the United States tloes not 
 as yet enable them to decide on either side the argu-
 
 30 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 ment between the Established and Voluntary systems 
 in religion ; take the towns by themselves, and I think 
 the voluntary principle appears fully adequate to satisfy 
 all religious exigencies ; then it must be remembered 
 that the class which makes the main difficulty else- 
 where, scarcely if at all exists in America ; it is the 
 blessed privilege of the United States, and it is one 
 which goes very far to counterbalance any drawbacks 
 at which I may have to hint, that they really have not, 
 as a class, any poor among them. A real beggar is 
 what you never see. On the other hand, over their 
 immense tracts of territory, the voluntary system has 
 not sufficed to produce sufficient religious accommoda- 
 tion ; it may, however, be truly questioned, whether 
 any establishment would be equal to that function. 
 This is, however, one among the many questions which 
 the republican experience of America has not yet solved. 
 As matters stand at present, indifference to religion 
 cannot be fairly laid to her charge ; probably religious 
 extremes are pushed farther than elsewhere ; there 
 certainly is a breadth and universality of religious lib- 
 erty which I do not regard without some degree of envy.
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 31 
 
 Upon my progress southward, I made a compara- 
 tively short halt at Philadelphia. This fair city has 
 not the animation of New- York, but it is eminently well 
 built, neat and clean beyond parallel. The streets are 
 all at right angles with each other, and bear the names 
 of the different trees of the country ; the houses are of 
 red brick, and mostly have white marble steps and 
 silver knockers, all looking bright and shining under the 
 effect of copious and perpetual washing. It still looks 
 like a town constructed by Quakers, who were its orig- 
 inal founders ; but by Quakers who had become rather 
 dandified. The waterworks established here are de- 
 servedly celebrated ; each house can have as much 
 water as it likes, within and without, at every moment, 
 for about 18s. a year. I hope our towns will be emu- 
 lous of this great advantage. I think it right to say, 
 that in our general arrangements for health and clean- 
 liness we appear to me very much to excel the Ameri- 
 cans,- and our people look infinitely healthier, stouter, 
 rosier, jollier; the greater proportion of Americans 
 with whom you converse would be apt to tell you they 
 were dyspeptic, whether principally from the dry
 
 32 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 quality of their atmosphere, the comparatively little 
 exercise which they take, or the rapidity with which 
 they accomplish their meals, I will not take upon my- 
 self to pronounce. There is one point of advantage 
 which they turn to account, especially in all their new 
 towns, which is, that their immense command of space 
 enables them to isolate almost every house, and thus 
 secure an ambient atmosphere for ventilation. In my 
 first walk through Philadelphia I passed the glittering 
 white marble portico of a great banking establishment, 
 which, after the recent crash it had sustained, made 
 me think of whited sepulchres. Near it was a pile, 
 with a respectable old English appearance, of far nobler 
 association; this was the State House, where the 
 Declaration of American Independence was signed 
 one of the most pregnant acts of which history bears 
 record. It contains a picture of William Penn and a 
 statue of Washington. While I was there, a sailor, 
 from the State of Maine, with a very frank and jaunty 
 air, burst into the room, and in a glow of ardent pat- 
 riotism inquired, " Is this the room in which the Decla- 
 ration of Independence was signed ?" When he found
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 33 
 
 that I was an Englishman, he seemed, with real good 
 breeding, to be afraid that he had grated on my feel- 
 ings, and told me that in the year 1814 our flag had 
 waved over the two greatest capitals of the world, 
 Washington and Paris. I looked with much interest 
 at the great Model Prison of the separate system. I 
 was favorably impressed with all that met the eye, but 
 I refrain from entering upon the vexed question of 
 comparison between this and the silent and other sys- 
 tems, as I feel how much the solution must depend 
 upon ever recurring experience. The poor-house, like 
 that at New- York, is built and administered on a very 
 costly scale, and also has a great proportion of foreign- 
 ers as inmates, and of the foreigners a great proportion 
 Irish. This seems to enhance the munificence of the 
 provision for destitution ; at the same time it is not to 
 be forgotten that the foreign labor is an article of nearly 
 essential necessity to the progress of the country. On 
 the only Sunday which I spent in Philadelphia, I went 
 to a church which was not wanting in associations ; the 
 communion plate had been given by Queen Anne, and 
 I sat in the pew of General Washington. I was told 
 2*
 
 34 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 by some one that his distinguished contemporary, Chief 
 Justice Marshall, said of him, that in contradiction to 
 what was often thought, he was a man of decided 
 genius, but he was such a personification of wisdom, 
 that he never put any thing forward which the occasion 
 did not absolutely require. It seemed to me that there 
 was at Philadelphia a greater separation and exclusive- 
 ness in society, more resemblance to what would be 
 called a fashionable class in European cities, than I had 
 found in America elsewhere. 
 
 My next brief pause was at Baltimore. At a halt 
 on the railroad on the way thither, I heard a conductor 
 or guard say to a negro, " I cannot let you go, for you 
 are a SLAVE." This was my first intimation that I had 
 crossed the border which divides Freedom from Slavery. 
 I quote from the entry which I made upon noting these 
 words that evening : " Declaration of Independence 
 which I read yesterday pillar of Washington which 
 I have looked on to-day what are ye ?" 
 
 I must now give myself some little vent. It was a 
 subject which I felt during my whole sojourn in 
 America, as I feel it still, to be paramount in interest
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 35 
 
 to every other. It was one on which I intended and 
 endeavored to observe a sound discretion ; we have 
 not ourselves long enough washed off the stain to give 
 us the right to rail at those whom we had originally 
 inoculated with the pest ; and a stranger abundantly 
 experiencing hospitality could not with any propriety 
 interfere wantonly upon the most delicate and difficult 
 point of another nation's policy. I could not, however, 
 fail often and deeply to feel, in the progress of my u> 
 tercourse with many hi that country " Come not, my 
 soul, into their secret ; to their counsel, my honor, be 
 not thou united." At the same tune I wished never 
 to make any compromise of my opinion. I made it a 
 point to pay special respect to the leading Abolitionists 
 those who had labored or suffered in the cause 
 when I came within reach of them ; at Boston, I com- 
 mitted the more overt act of attending the annual anti- 
 slavery fair, which then was almost considered some- 
 thing of a measure. I was much struck in the distin- 
 guished and agreeable companies which I had the good 
 fortune to frequent, with a few honorable exceptions, 
 at the tone of disparagement, contempt, and anger
 
 36 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 with which the Abolitionists were mentioned ; just as 
 any patrician company, in this country, would talk of 
 a Socialist or a Red Republican. I am, of course, 
 now speaking of the free Northern States ; in the 
 South an Abolitionist could not be known to exist. 
 My impression is, that in the subsequent interval the 
 dislike, the anger, has remained, and may, probably, 
 have been heightened, but that the feeling of slight, of 
 ignoring (to use a current phrase) their very existence, 
 must have been sensibly checked. There were some 
 who told me that they made it the business of their 
 lives to superintend the passage of the runaway slaves 
 through the free States ; they reckoned, at that time, 
 that about one thousand yearly escaped into Canada. 
 I doubt whether the enactment and operation of the 
 Fugitive Slave Bill will damp the ardor of their exer- 
 tions. It may be easy to speak discreetly and plausi- 
 bly about the paramount duty of not contravening the 
 law ; but how would you feel, my countrymen, if a 
 fugitive was at your feet and the man-hunter at the 
 door ? I admit that the majesty of the law is on one 
 side ; but the long deep misery of a whole human life
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 37 
 
 is on the other. What you ought to feel is fervent 
 gratitude to the Power which has averted from your 
 shores and hearths this fearful trial, and, let me add, a 
 heartfelt sympathy with those who are sustaining it. 
 
 At Baltimore I thought there was a more pictu- 
 resque disposition of ground than in any other city of ^he 
 Union : it is built on swelling eminences, commanding 
 views of the widening Chesapeake, a noble arm of the 
 sea. There are an unusual number of public monu- 
 ments for an American town, and hence it has been 
 christened the Monumental City. I found the same 
 hospitality which had greeted me every where, and the 
 good living seemed to me carried to its greatest height ; 
 they have in perfection the terrapin, a kind of land 
 tortoise, and the canvas-back duck, a most unrivalled 
 bird in any country. With reference to the topic I 
 have lately touched upon, a slaveholders' convention 
 was being held at the time of my visit for the State of 
 Maryland. They had been led to adopt this step by 
 their apprehensions both of the increase of the free 
 colored population, and what they termed their demor- 
 alizing action on the slaves. The language, as reported, 
 
 

 
 38 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 did not seem to have been very violent, but they very 
 nearly subjected to lynch-law a man whom they sus- 
 pected to be a reporter for an abolitionist newspaper. 
 I trust we are not going to copy that system in this 
 country. I dined with the daughter of Charles Car- 
 roll, who, when signing the Declaration of Indepen- 
 dence, was told by a bystander that he would incur no 
 danger, as there were so many of the same name 
 " of Carrollton," he added to his name, and I think it 
 is the only one upon the document which has any ap- 
 pendage. Being thus nobly fathered, it is rather curi- 
 ous that this venerable lady should have been the mo- 
 ther of three English Peeresses. The Roman Catholic 
 Archbishop of Baltimore was one of the company : 
 he wore his long violet robes, which I have never seen 
 done on similar occasions, either hi Ireland or in this 
 country. 
 
 From Baltimore I transferred myself to Washing- 
 ton, the seat of Government and capital of the Ameri- 
 can Union. I never saw so strange a place ; it affords 
 the strongest contrast to the regularity, compactness, 
 neatness, and animation of the Atlantic cities I had
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 39 
 
 hitherto visited. It is spread over a very large space, 
 in this way justifying the expression of some one who 
 wished to pay it a compliment, but did not know very 
 well what attribute to select, so he termed it a " city 
 of magnificent distances," over which it extends, or 
 rather sprawls ; it looks as if it had rained houses at 
 random, or like half a dozen indifferent villages scat- 
 tered over a goose common. Here and there, as if to 
 heighten the contrast with the meanness of the rest, 
 there are some very handsome public buildings ; and 
 the American Capitol, the meeting-place of the Legis- 
 lature and the seat of empire, though not exempt from 
 architectural defects, towers proudly on a steep ascent, 
 commanding the subject town and the course of the 
 broad Potomac, which makes the only redeeming fea- 
 ture of the natural landscape. In short, while almost 
 every other place which I saw in America, gives the 
 impression of life and progress, Washington not only 
 appears stagnant, but retrograde. No busy commerce 
 circulates in its streets, no brilliant shops .diversify its 
 mean ranges of ill-built houses ; but very few equi- 
 pages move along its wide, splashy, dreary avenues. I
 
 40 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 saw it, too, in the prime of its season, during the sit- 
 ting of Congress. When it is not sitting the members 
 of the Legislature and officers of the Government dis- 
 pose themselves over the breadth of the Union, and 
 leave the capital to the clerks of the public offices, and 
 does it not seem profanation to say it ? the slaves, 
 who are still permitted to inhabit what should right- 
 fully be the Metropolis of Freedom. It is at least 
 gratifying to know that, in the last session of Congress, 
 the slave trade has been abolished in the district of 
 Columbia, the small portion of territory immediately 
 annexed to Washington. When they are here, the 
 members of Congress are mostly packed together in 
 large and very inferior boarding-houses, a great por- 
 tion of them not bringing their wives and families over 
 the immense distances they have to traverse ; hence it 
 also happens that Washington will appear to the stran- 
 ger not merely one of the least thriving but also the 
 least hospitable of American cities. I spent nearly a 
 month there, and it was the only place in which I 
 (what is termed) kept house, that is, I resided in pri- 
 vate lodgings, and found my own food, a method of
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 41 
 
 life, however, which, in the long run, has more com- 
 fort and independence than that of the huge hotels. 
 It was a contrast, however, to the large armies of 
 waiters to which I had grown accustomed, to have no 
 one in the house but an old woman and a negro boy, 
 the first of whom my English servant characterized as 
 cross, and the second as stupid. I believe it was the 
 policy of the founders of the Kepublic to place the 
 seat of Government where it would not be liable to be 
 distracted by the turmoil of commerce, or over-awed 
 by the violence of mobs ; we have heard very lately of 
 speculations to remove the seat of the French Govern- 
 ment from Paris. Another cause which has probably 
 contributed to check any designs for the external im- 
 provement and development of Washington, must 
 have been the doubt how far in a nation which is ex- 
 tending its boundaries westward at so prodigious a rate, 
 it will be desirable or possible long to retain as the seat 
 of Government a spot which will have become so little 
 central. 
 
 What gave most interest to my stay at Washington 
 naturally was the opportunity of attending the sittings
 
 42 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 of Congress. The interior of the Capitol is imposing, 
 as well as the exterior ; in the Centre Hall there were 
 five large pictures, illustrating the prominent points of 
 American history, which must be more agreeable to 
 American than to British eyes. There is also a fine 
 colossal statue of Washington, who is universally and 
 not unduly called the father of his country. The 
 Chamber where the Senate meets is handsome and 
 convenient. The general aspect of the assembly, 
 which (as is well known) shares largely both in the 
 legislative and executive powers of the constitution, is 
 grave and decorous. The House of Representatives, 
 the more popular branch of the Government, returned 
 by universal suffrage, assemble in a chamber of very 
 imposing appearance, arranged rather like a theatre, in 
 shape like the arc of a bow, but it is the worst room 
 for hearing I ever was in ; we hear complaints occa- 
 sionally of our Houses of Parliament, old and new, but 
 they are faultless in comparison. In parts of the 
 House it is impossible to hear any body, in others it 
 answers all the purposes of a whispering gallery, and 
 J have heard members carry on a continuous dialogue 

 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 43 
 
 while a debate was storming around them. Both in 
 the Senate and the House every member has a most 
 commodious arm-chair, a desk for his papers, and a 
 spitting-box, to which he does not always confine him- 
 self. I came very often, and it was impossible to sur- 
 pass the attention I received ; some member's seat in 
 the body of the House was always given to me, and I 
 was at liberty to remain there during the whole of the 
 debate, listen to what was going on, or write my letters, 
 as I chose. The palpable distinction between them 
 and our House of Commons I should say to be this, 
 we are more noisy, and they are more disorderly. They 
 do not cheer, they do not cough, but constantly seve- 
 ral are speaking at a time, and they evince a contemp- 
 tuous disregard for the decisions of their speaker. 
 They have no recognized leaders of the different par- 
 ties, the members of Government not being allowed to 
 have seats in either House of Congress, and the diffe- 
 rent parties do not occupy distinct quarters in the 
 chamber, so that you may often hear a furious wran- 
 gle being carried on between two nearly contiguous 
 members. While I was at Washington, the question
 
 44 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 of slavery, or at least of points connected with slavery, 
 gave the chief color and animation to the discussions 
 in the House of Representatives. Old Mr. Adams, 
 the ex-president of the United States, occupied, with- 
 out doubt, the most prominent position ; he presented 
 a very striking appearance, standing up erect at the 
 age of seventy-three, having once filled the highest 
 post attainable by an American citizen, with trembling 
 hands and eager eyes, in defence of the right of peti- 
 tion, the right to petition against the continuance of 
 slavery in the district of Columbia, with a majority of 
 the House usually deciding against him, and a portion 
 of it lashed into noise and storm. I thought it was 
 very near being, and to some extent it was, quite a 
 sublime position, but it rather detracted from the gran- 
 deur of the effect at least, that his own excitement was 
 so great as to pitch his voice almost into a screech, 
 and to make him more disorderly than all the rest. 
 He put one in mind of a fine old game-cock, and occa- 
 sionally showed great energy and power of sarcasm. 
 I had certainly an opportunity of forming my opinion, 
 as I sat through a speech of his that lasted three days ;
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 45 
 
 but then it is fair to mention that the actual sittings 
 hardly last above three hours a day about four, din- 
 ner is ready, and they go away for the day, differing 
 much herein from our practice ; and on this occasion 
 they frequently allowed Mr. Adams to sit down to rest. 
 All the time I believe he was not himself for the dis- 
 continuance of slavery, even in the district of Colum- 
 bia, but he contended that the Constitution had ac- 
 corded the free right of petition. One morning he 
 presented a petition for the dissolution of the Union, 
 which raised a great tempest. Mr. Marshall, of Ken- 
 tucky, a fine and graceful speaker, moved a vote of 
 censure upon him. Another member, whom I need 
 not name, the ablest and fiercest champion whom I 
 heard on the southern or slaveholder side, made a 
 most savage onslaught on Mr. Adams ; then up got 
 that " old man eloquent," and no one could have re- 
 proached him with not understanding how to speak 
 even daggers. His brave but somewhat troublous 
 spirit has passed from the scenes upon which he played 
 so conspicuous a part, but he has left behind him some 
 words of fire, the sparks of which are not yet extinct. 

 
 46 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 Nothing came of all this stir; I used to meet Mr. 
 Adams at dinner while it went on, very calm and un- 
 disturbed. After seeing and hearing what takes place 
 in some of these sittings, one is tempted to think that 
 the Union must break up next morning ; but the flame 
 appeared generally to smoulder almost as quickly as it 
 ignited. The debates in the Senate, during the same 
 period, were dignified, business-like, and not very lively ; 
 so it may be judged which House had most attraction 
 for the passing traveller. I heard Mr. Clay in the 
 Senate once, but every one told me that he was labor- 
 ing under feebleness and exhaustion, so that I could 
 only perceive the great charm in the tones of his voice. 
 I think this most attractive quality was still more per- 
 ceivable in private intercourse, as I certainly never met 
 any public man, either in his country or in mine, always 
 excepting Mr. Canning, who exercised such evident 
 fascination over the minds and affections of his 
 friends and followers, as Henry Clay. I thought his 
 society most attractive, easy, simple, and genial, 
 with great natural dignity. If his countrymen 
 made better men Presidents, I should applaud their
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 47 
 
 virtue in resisting the spell of his eloquence and at- 
 tractions ; when the actual list is considered, my respect 
 for the discernment elicited by Universal Suffrage does 
 not stand at a very high point. Another great man, 
 Daniel Webster, I could not hear in either House of 
 Congress, because he then filled, as he does now, the 
 high office of Secretary of State ; but it is quite enough 
 to look on his jutting dark brow and cavernous eyes, 
 and massive forehead, to be assured that they are the 
 abode of as much, if not more, intellectual power than 
 any head you perhaps ever remarked. For many, if 
 not for all reasons, I am well content that he should 
 be again at the head of the American Cabinet, for I 
 feel sure that while he is even intensely American, he 
 has an enlightened love of peace, and a cordial sympa- 
 thy with the fortunes and glories of the old, as well as 
 the new Anglo-Saxon stock. The late Mr. Calhoun, 
 who impressed most of those who were thrown in his 
 way with a high opinion of his ability, his honesty, and, 
 I may add, his impracticability, I had not the good 
 fortune to hear in public, or meet in private society. 
 It is well known that his attachment to the maintenance
 
 48 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 of slavery went so far as to lead him to declare that 
 real freedom could not be maintained without it. 
 Among those who at that time contributed both to the 
 credit and gayety of the society of Washington, I can- 
 not forbear adding the name of Mr. Legare, then the 
 Attorney-General of the Union, now unhappily, like 
 too many of those whom I have had occasion to men- 
 tion,. no longer living. He appeared to me the best 
 scholar, and the most generally accomplished man, I 
 met in all the Union. I may feel biassed in his favor, 
 for I find among my entries, " Mr. Legare spoke to- 
 night of Pope as he ought." 
 
 I have not mentioned what might be thought of a 
 very prominent object at Washington the President 
 of the United States. He resides for his term of office 
 at a substantial plain building, called the White House. 
 Mr. Tyler filled the office when I was there, and ap- 
 peared a simple, unaffected person. Washington is 
 the headquarters of another branch of the Constitu- 
 tion, which works perhaps with less of friction and 
 censure than any other, the Supreme Court of Judica- 
 ture. The large federal questions between State and
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 40 
 
 State give great weight and interest to its proceedings. 
 I heard an interesting cause between the States of 
 Maryland and Pennsylvania ; it was an action to try 
 the constitutional validity of an act of the State of 
 Pennsylvania, which gave a trial by jury to the fugitive 
 slave. How this subject pursued and pervaded every 
 thing ! It was argued with great ability on both sides ; 
 it was ultimately ruled against the power of the free 
 States to pass such an act ; and the recent Fugitive 
 Slave Law may probably have arisen out of some such 
 debatable questions of right ; at all events, it has en- 
 tirely swept away the intervention of a jury. 
 
 The last day of my abode. at Washington was spent 
 becomingly at Mount Yernon, the residence, and now 
 the grave, of Washington. It is well placed on a 
 wooded hill above the noble Potomac, here a mile and 
 a half broad. The tomb is a sad affair for such a man ; 
 ic has an inscription upon it denoting that it was erectd 
 by John Strutters, marble mason ! It is placed under 
 a glaring red building, something between a coach- 
 house and a cage ; the Senate once procured the con- 
 sent of the family to have it removed to the Capitol, 
 3
 
 50 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 when a bricklayer, a laborer, and a cart arrived to take 
 it off one morning, at which their indignation naturally 
 rose. There are few things remarkable in the house, 
 except the key of the Bastille sent by General Lafayette 
 to General Washington, and a sword sent to him by 
 Frederick the Great, with this address, "From the 
 Oldest General of the age to the Best." I was grati- 
 fied to see a print from my picture of the Three Maries. 
 Did it ever excite the interest and the piety of Wash- 
 ington ? 
 
 I made a rapid journey, by steamboat and railroad, 
 through the States of Virginia and North Carolina ; 
 the country wore a universal impress of exhaustion, 
 desertion, slavery. It appears to be one of the trials 
 or the cupidity of man, that slavery, notwithstanding 
 all its drawbacks, has a certain degree of adaptation, 
 not I trust in the mercy of God, a necessary adaptation, 
 to the culture of fertile soils in hot climates ; but in 
 sterile or exhausted soils, where the energy of man 
 must be called out to overcome difficulties, it is evident 
 that slavery has no elastic spring or restorative power. 
 Richmond, the capital of Virginia, has a certain re-
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 51 
 
 semblance in position to its namesake in Surrey ; I saw 
 the local Legislature in session; it was very full of 
 coarse-looking farmers from the western portion of the 
 State ; it struck me that the acute town lawyers must 
 manage matters much as they choose. I never saw 
 a country so hopeless as all that I passed through in 
 North Carolina a flat, sandy waste of pines, with 
 scarcely a habitation. I spent a fortnight at Charles- 
 ton, the capital of her more energetic sister, South 
 Carolina ; this town and State may be looked upon as 
 the headquarters of the' slaveholding interest; and 
 repeatedly, when they have thought the policy of the 
 North too encroaching either upon questions relating 
 to what they term their peculiar institutions, which is 
 their euphonious description of slavery, or when we 
 should feel a juster sympathy with them, upon ques^ 
 tions relating to the protection of the northern manu- 
 factures in opposition to a liberal commercial policy, 
 they have not only held the very highest tone in favor 
 of a dissolution of the Union, but have proceeded to 
 overt acts of resistance. I am bound to say that I spent 
 my time there very pleasantly ; there was much gayety
 
 52 TRAVELS IN AMERICA* 
 
 and unbounded hospitally. I have made no disguise 
 of what my opinions upon slavery were, are, and ever 
 must be ; but it would be uncandid to deny that the 
 planter in the Southern States has much more in his 
 manner and mode of intercourse that resembles the 
 English country gentleman than any other class of his 
 countrymen ; he is more easy, companionable, fond of 
 country life, and out-of-door pursuits. I went with a 
 remarkably agreeable party to spend a day at the rice 
 plantation of one of their chief proprietors; he had 
 the credit of being an excellent manager, and his ne- 
 groes, young and old, seemed well taken care of and 
 looked after ; he repelled the idea not of educating 
 them that is highly penal by the law of the State, 
 but of letting them have any religious instruction. I 
 was told by others that there was considerable im- 
 provement in this respect. Many whom I met enter- 
 tained no doubt that slavery would subsist among 
 them for ever ; others were inclined to think that it 
 would wear out. While I was willing not to shut my 
 eyes to any of the more favorable external symptoms 
 or mitigations of slavery, other indications could not
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 53 
 
 come across my path without producing deep repug- 
 nance. On the veiy first night of my arrival, I heard 
 the deep sound of a curfew bell ; on inquiry I was told, 
 that after it had sounded every night at about nine 
 o'clock, no colored person, slave or free mark that 
 might be seen in the streets. One morning, accord- 
 ingly, I saw a great crowd of colored persons in the 
 street, and I found they were waiting to see a large 
 number of their color, who had been taken up the 
 night before on their return from a ball, escorted in 
 their ball-dresses from the jail to the court-house. 
 Indeed, it was almost principally with relation to the 
 free blacks that the anomalous and indefensible work- 
 ing of the system appeared there to develope itself. I 
 was told that the slaves themselves looked down upon 
 the free blacks, and called them rubbish. I must not 
 omit to state that I saw one slave auction in the open 
 street, arising from the insolvency of the previous 
 owner ; a crowd stood round the platform, on which 
 sat the auctioneer, and beside him were placed in suc- 
 cession the lots of from one to five negroes. The 
 families seemed to be all put up together; but I ima-
 
 54 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 gine they must often be separated ; they comprised 
 infants and all ages. As far as I could judge, they 
 exhibited great indifference to their changing destiny. 
 I heard the auctioneer tell one old man, whom I could 
 have hardly distinguished from a white person, that he 
 had been bought by a good master. One could not help 
 shuddering at the future lot of those who were not the 
 subjects of this congratulation. 
 
 I went into the Head Court of Justice at Charleston, 
 and found seven persons present ; five of them were 
 judges, one was the lawyer addressing them, the other 
 was the opposing counsel, who was walking up and 
 down the room. I attended a meeting of the conven- 
 tion of the Episcopal Church of South Carolina; 
 whether it may be for encouragement or warning 
 to those who wish for the introduction or revival of 
 such synods at home, I mention the point then under 
 discussion; it was how far it was proper to show 
 deference for the opinion of the Bishop. 
 
 In point of neatness, cleanliness, and order, the slave- 
 holding States appeared to stand in about the same 
 relation to the free, as Ireland does to England ; every
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 55 
 
 thing appears slovenly, ill-arranged, incomplete ; win- 
 dows do not shut, doors do not fasten ; there is a 
 superabundance of hands to do every thing, and little 
 is thoroughly done. The country round Charleston 
 for scores, and I believe hundreds of miles, is perfectly 
 flat, and full of swamps, but there I had the first indi- 
 cations of the real genius of the South, in the white 
 houses lined with verandahs, the broad-leaved deep 
 green magnolias and wild orange trees in the gardens, 
 the large yellow jessamine and palmetto in the hedges, 
 and the pendent streamers of gray moss on the under 
 branches of the rich evergreen live-oak, which supplies 
 unrivalled timber for ship-building. 
 
 I left Charleston in a small American mail-packet, 
 
 
 
 for the Island of Cuba. I must not dwell on the voy- 
 age, Vhich, from our being much becalmed, lasted 
 twelve days, double its due ; we were long off the low 
 flat coast of Georgia and Florida, and I felt inclined to 
 say with Goldsmith 
 
 " And wild Altama echoed to our woe." 
 
 On the 14th of March we passed under the impreg-
 
 56 TRAVELS IN 7 AMERICA. 
 
 nable rock of the Castle, called the Moro, and, answer- 
 ing the challenge from its terraced battlements, we 
 found ourselves in the unrivalled harbor of*the Havana. 
 How enchanting, to the senses at least, were the three 
 weeks I spent in Cuba ! How my memory turns to its 
 picturesque forms and balmy skies. During my whole 
 stay, the thermometer scarcely varied from 76 to 78 
 in the shade. I am disposed to wonder that these re- 
 gions are not more resorted to by our countrymen for 
 enjoyment of life, and escape from death. Nothing 
 was ever so unlike either Europe or America as the 
 Havana ; at least I had never been in Spain, the mother 
 country, which I suppose it most resembles. The 
 courts of the gleaming white houses have a Moorish 
 look, the interiors are much covered with arabesques, 
 and on the outside towards the street they have im- 
 mense open spaces for windows, in which they gener- 
 ally find it superfluous to put any glass ; the carriages 
 are called Volantes, and look as if they had been in- 
 tended to carry Don Quixote. Then how delicious it 
 used to be, late in the evening, under a moonlight we 
 can scarcely imagine, to sit in the square called the
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 57 
 
 Place of Arms, where in a space flanked by some 
 gleaming palm-trees, and four small fountains, a gay 
 crowd listened to excellent music from a Spanish mili- 
 tary band. It is certainly the handsomest town I saw 
 in the New World, and gives a great idea of the luxury 
 and splendor of Spain in her palmy days. The billiard 
 rooms and ice saloons streamed with light ; the great 
 theatre is as large and brilliant as almost any hi Europe. 
 Again, how full of interest were some visits I paid in 
 the interior, both to Spanish and American households. 
 I cannot condense my impressions of the scenery better 
 than by repeating some short stanzas which with such 
 influences around me I could not help perpetrating. I 
 hope that while they bear witness to the intoxicating 
 effects of the landscape and the climate, they do not 
 wholly leave out of view the attendant moral. 
 
 Ye tropic forests of unfading green, 
 Where the palm tapers, and the orange glows. 
 
 Where the light bamboo weaves her feathery screen, 
 And her tall shade the matchless seyba throws: 
 
 Ye cloudless ethers of unchanging blue, 
 
 Save as its rich varieties give way 
 To the clear sapphire of your midnight hue, 
 
 The burnished azure of your perfect day. 
 
 3*
 
 58 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 Yet tell me not my native skies are bleak, 
 That flushed with liquid wealth, no cane-flelds wave; 
 
 For Virtue pines, and Manhood dares not speak, 
 And Nature's glories brighten round the Slave. 
 
 Among the country-houses I visited was the sugar 
 estate of one of the chief Creole nobles of the island 
 (I do not know whether my hearers will be aware that 
 the proper meaning of a Creole is a person of European 
 descent born in America) : I was treated there with 
 the most refined and courteous hospitality ; and what 
 a view it was from the terrace of golden cane-fields, 
 and fringing woods, and azure sea ! The treatment of 
 the domestic slaves appeared kind and affectionate, and 
 all the negro children on the estate repeated their cate- 
 chism to the priest, and were then brought in to dance 
 and romp in the drawing-room. Generally there does 
 not appear to be the same amount of repulsion between 
 the white and colored races as in the United States, 
 and there is the pleasant spectacle of their being mixed 
 together in the churches. Still the crying conclusive 
 fact remains, that the average negro population died 
 off in ten years, and had to be recruited by continuous 
 importations, which are so many breaches of the solemn
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 59 
 
 treaties between Spain and us. On one coffee estate 
 which I visited (and "generally the coffee cultivation 
 is far lighter than that of the sugar cane), a still darker 
 shade was thrown upon the system, as I was told from 
 a most authentic source that there was great difficulty 
 in preventing mothers from killing their offspring. 
 General Valdez, who was captain-general of the island 
 during my visit, is thought to have exerted himself 
 honestly in putting down the slave trade. I believe it 
 has been as much encouraged as ever under some of 
 his successors. The politics of Cuba are rather deli- 
 cate ground to tread upon just now, and are likely to 
 be continually shifting ; it appeared to me that all the 
 component parties held each other in check, like the 
 people who are all prevented from killing each other 
 in the farce of the Critic. The despotism and exclu- 
 siveness of the mother country were complete ; every 
 one gave the same picture of the corruption and de- 
 moralization which pervaded every department of ad- 
 ministration and justice. The Creoles are prevented 
 from rising against this system, from dread of the 
 negroes rising against them, over and above the large
 
 60 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 Spanish force always kept on foot there ; the Ameri- 
 cans, who have got possession of a large proportion of 
 the estates, do not like to hazard any attempt at an- 
 nexation, without at least adequate aid from other 
 quarters, as they would have to deal with the Spanish 
 army, some of the Creoles, and all the negroes ; and 
 the negroes, the most deeply wronged party of any, 
 would bring down on themselves, in case of any gene- 
 ral rising amongst them, the Spaniards, Creoles, Amer- 
 icans within, and Americans without. May the 
 providence of God reserve for these enchanting 
 shores more worthy destinies than they have ever yet 
 enjoyed ! 
 
 ; 
 
 1 availed myself of the magnificent accommodation 
 of one of our West India line-of-packet steamers, 
 which deposited us at the mouth of the Mississippi. 
 I repined at the course of the vessel, receding from 
 the sun, and at first I thought every thing looked 
 dingy, after the skies and vegetation of the tropics. I 
 missed especially the palm, the cocoa, and the seyba, 
 but there was still the orange tree, and, what they 
 have not in Cuba, the magnolia, a forest tree in full
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 61 
 
 blossom : the sugar plantations of Louisiana seemed 
 kept in very trim order : we passed the ground made 
 memorable by the victory of General Jackson over 
 the English, and soon drew up among the numerous 
 tiers of masts and steamboats that line the crescent 
 outline of New Orleans. 
 
 The good I have to say of New Orleans must be 
 chiefly confined to the St. Charles Hotel, which is the 
 most splendid of its kind that I saw even in the Uni- 
 ted States. When it is at its full complement 560 dine 
 there every day 350 of whom sleep in the house ; 
 there are 160 servants, 7 French cooks ; all the wait- 
 ers, whites Irish, English, French, German, and 
 American ; the very intelligent proprietor of the hotel 
 told me he thought the Irish made the best ; he has 
 them all together every day at noon, when they go 
 through a regular drill, and rehearse the service of a 
 dinner. Nothing can be more distinct than the ap- 
 pearance of the American and French portions of the 
 town ; the American is laid out in broad streets, high 
 houses, and large stores ; the French in narrow streets, 
 which suits a warm climate better perhaps, and a great
 
 62 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 proportion of one-storied houses, which they thought 
 a better security agaist hurricanes. I spent my time 
 not unpleasantly, particularly two days at the planta- 
 tion of an opulent proprietor, where the slaves seemed 
 the subject of much thoughtful attention as far as 
 their physical condition is concerned : the weather at 
 this season, the middle of April, was delicious, but 
 it is the last place in the world I should choose for a 
 residence. For long periods the climate is most nox- 
 ious to human life ; it is the occasional haunt of the 
 yellow fever, the river runs at a higher level than the 
 town, and the putrid swamp is ever ready to ooze 
 through the thin layer of rank soil above it; and, 
 worse than any merely natural malaria, the dregs of 
 the worst type of the French and American character, 
 notwithstanding the more wholesome elements by 
 which their influence is undoubtedly tempered, impart 
 a moral taint to the social atmosphere. 
 
 Though in my journey henceforward 1 passed over 
 immense spaces, and saw great varieties of scenes and 
 men, yet as it became now more of a matter of real 
 travelling, and did not show me so much of the inner
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 63 
 
 social life, it will be a relief to you to hear, especially 
 after the lengthened trespass I have already made on 
 your attention, that I shall get over the remaining 
 ground far more rapidly. I went from New Orleans 
 to Louisville on board the Henry Clay steamer, 1500 
 miles, which lasted six days ; the first 1100 were on 
 the Mississippi. It is impossible to be on the Father 
 of Waters, as I believe the name denotes, without some 
 emotion ; its breadth hardly appears so imposing as 
 that of many far inferior streams ; at New Orleans it 
 must be under three-quarters of a mile, but its width 
 rather paradoxically increases as you rece !e from its 
 mouth ; its color is that of a murky, pulpy, yellowish 
 mud, but still its full deep brimming volume pleases, 
 chiefly, I suppose, from the knowledge that thus it 
 rolls on for 5000 miles, and waters a valley capable 
 of feeding the world ; there is little break of outline, 
 but the continuous parallel lines of forest are partially 
 dotted, first by the sugar fields of Louisiana, then by 
 the cotton inclosures of the States of Mississippi and 
 Tennessee, then by the rich meadows of Kentucky. 
 For the last 400 miles we left the sovereign river, and
 
 64 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 struck up the Ohio, christened by the French the beau- 
 tiful river, and deserving the name from the swelling 
 wooded slopes which fringe its current ; its soft native 
 name of Ohio, means " the gently flowing." Louis- 
 ville is a flourishing town ; thence I dived into the in- 
 terior of Kentucky, and paid a visit of two or three 
 days to Mr. Clay, at his country residence of Ashland. 
 The qualities which rivet the Senate and captivate his 
 adherents, seemed to me both heightened and softened 
 by his frank, courteous, simple intercourse. He lives 
 with his family in a modest house, among fields of deep 
 red soil and the most luxuriant grass, growing under 
 very thriving and varied timber, the oak, sycamore, 
 locust-tree, cedar, and that beautiful ornament of Ame- 
 rican woods, the sugar maple. He likes showing some 
 English cattle. His countrymen seem to be in the habit 
 of calling upon him without any kind of previous in- 
 troduction. Slavery, generally mild in the pastoral 
 State of Kentucky, was certainly seen here in its least 
 repulsive guise ; Mr. Clay's own negro servant, Charles, 
 was much devoted to him ; he took him with him on 
 a tour into Canada, and when some abolitionists there
 
 * 
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 65 
 
 wanted him to leave his master, " Not if you were to 
 give me both your provinces," was the reply. 
 
 My next halt was at the White Sulphur Springs in 
 the western portion of Virginia. The season had not 
 yet commenced, early in May, so I was in sole posses- 
 sion of the place. One of my southern friends had 
 kindly placed a delightful little cottage at my disposal, 
 and I enjoyed in the highest degree the unwonted re- 
 pose in the solitude of virgin forests, and the recesses 
 of the green Alleghanies. Here were my brief Fare- 
 well lines to the small temple-like cupola over the 
 bright sulphur well from which I used to drink many 
 times in the day : 
 
 Hail dome ! whose unpresuming circle guards 
 Virginia's flowing fountain : still may health 
 Hover above thy crystal urn, and bring 
 To cheeks unused their bloom ! may Beauty still 
 Sit on thy billowy swell of wooded hills, 
 And deep ravines of verdure ; may the axe, 
 Improvement's necessary pioneer, 
 Mid forest solitudes, still gently pierce,' . 
 Not bare their leafy bowers ! This votiye lay, 
 Like wreath of old on thy white columns hung, 
 Albeit of scentless flowers from foreign soil, 
 Scorn not, and bid the Pilgrim pass in peace.
 
 66 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. % 
 
 I had, at this time, much travelling in the stage 
 coaches, and I found it amusing to sit by the different 
 coachmen, who were generally youths from the East- 
 ern States, pushing their way in life, and full of fresh 
 and racy talk. One said to me, lamenting the amount 
 of debt which the State through which we were tra- 
 velling had incurred, " I suppose your State has no 
 debt," a compliment I could not quite appropriate. 
 Another, who probably came from New- York, where 
 they do not like to use the word Master in speaking 
 of their employers, but prefer an old Dutch name, Boss, 
 said to me, " I suppose the Queen is your Boss now." 
 
 I again turned my face to the West, and passed 
 Cincinnati, which, together with all that I saw of the 
 State of Ohio, seemed to me the part of the Union 
 where, if obliged to make the choice, I should like best 
 to fix my abode. It has a great share of all the civili- 
 zation and appliances of the old settled States of the 
 East, with the richer soil, the softer climate, the fresher 
 spring of life, which distinguish the West. It had be- 
 sides to me the great attraction of being the first Free 
 State which I reached on my return from the region of
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 67 
 
 Slavery, and the contrast in the appearance of prosperity 
 and progress is just what a friend of freedom would 
 always wish it to be. One of my visitors at Cincinnati 
 told me he remembered when the town only contained 
 a few log cabins ; when I was there it had 50,000 in- 
 habitants. I shall not easily forget an evening view 
 from a neighboring hill, over loamy cornfields, woody 
 knolls, and even some vineyards, just where the Miami 
 River discharges its gentle stream into the ample Ohio. 
 I crossed the States of Indiana and Illinois, looked for 
 the first time on the wide level and waving grass of a 
 prairie stopped a short time at St. Louis, once a French 
 station, now the flourishing capital of the State of Mis- 
 souri. I passed the greatest confluence of rivers on the 
 face of our globe, where the Mississippi and Missouri 
 blend their giant currents ; the whole river ought pro- 
 perly to have gone by the name of the Missouri, as it 
 is by far the most considerable stream, its previous 
 course before the junction exceeding the entire course 
 of the Mississippi both before and after it ; it is the Mis- 
 souri, too, which imparts its color to the united stream, 
 and for two or three miles you distinguish its ochrer
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 colored waters as they line the hitherto clear current 
 of the Upper Mississippi. At Jacksonville, in Illinois, 
 I was told a large colony of Yorkshiremen were set- 
 tled, anrl I was the more easily induced to believe it, 
 as it seemed to me about the most thriving and best 
 cultivated neighborhood I had seen. I embarked at 
 Chicago on the great lakes : but here I must desist from 
 pursuing my devious wanderings on those large inland 
 seas, and on the opposite shore of Canada. Many thou- 
 sands of miles have I steamed away over Lakes Michi- 
 gan, Huron, Erie, Ontario ; the Rideau Canal, the St. 
 Lawrence and Ottawa rivers ; some of these I traversed 
 twice, and they supplied some of the most interesting 
 and picturesque features of my long journeyings. I 
 should have scrupled in any case to touch upon the 
 politics of Canada, and indeed my pauses at any fixed 
 spot were too short to qualify me for the attempt, even 
 if it had been desirable. It is a magnificent region, es- 
 pecially its western portion happy in climate, soil, and 
 scenery. I will, however, only attempt to dash off two 
 slight sketches from my Canadian recollections. Here 
 is the first. I stood in a terraced garden on the sum-
 
 TRAVELS IV AMERICA. 69 
 
 mit of a high promontory, running with a steep angle 
 into the basin made by the river St. Lawrence, of which 
 it is no exaggeration to say that the water is as clear, 
 bright, and, above all, green as any emerald ; here, up- 
 on I believe the most imperial sita in the world, stand 
 the citadel and city of Quebec : the shipping was lying 
 in great quantity close under the rocky steep, and was 
 dotted for a considerable way along the shining river ; 
 in front was the island of Orleans, well-shaped and 
 full-peopled ; ridge upon ridge beyond, ending with 
 Cape Tourment, descended on the river ; the shore on 
 either side gleamed with white villages, and the town 
 below seemed to climb or almost leap up the straight 
 precipice, broken with high convent roofs and glittering 
 tinned spires. The flag of England waved upon the 
 highest bastion that crowned the rock, the band of the 
 Queen's Guards was playing in the garden, the clearest 
 blue of western skies was above my head, and, rising 
 above the whole glowing scene, was the commemorative 
 pillar to that General Wolfe, who on this spot transferred 
 to us Englishmen, by his own victory and death, and 
 with the loss of forty-five men, the mastery of a continent.
 
 70 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 The only other scene I will attempt to sketch shall 
 be in the centre of Lake Huron, on one of its countless 
 islands. I am justified in using that epithet, since not 
 long ago our Government ordered a survey to be made 
 of the islands ; they counted 40,000, and then gave it 
 lip ; and some of these were of no contemptible size, 
 one of them being ninety miles long. I was one of a 
 party which at that time went annually up the lake to 
 attend an encampment of many thousand Indians, and 
 make a distribution of presents among them. About 
 sunset our flotilla of seven canoes, manned well by In- 
 dian and French Canadian crews drew up ; some of 
 the rowers cheering the end of the day's work with 
 snatches of a Canadian boat-song. We disembarked 
 on some rocky islet which, as probably as not, had 
 never felt the foot of man before ; in a few moments 
 the utter solitude had become a scene of bustle and 
 business, carried on by the sudden population of some 
 sixty souls ; tents had been pitched in which we were 
 to sleep ; small trees had been cut for fuel ; fires had 
 been lighted round which the motley crews were pre- 
 paring the evening meal ; some were bathing in the
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 71 
 
 transparent little bays, some standing on a jutting 
 piece of cliff, fishing ; and here and there an Indian 
 in the water, motionless, watching with an intent gaze, 
 a spear in his hand ready to dart on his prey be- 
 neath. A large oil-cloth had been spread for our party 
 on a convenient ledge of rock ; hot pea soup, hot fish, 
 the chase of the day, and large cold rounds of beef, 
 showed that, though we were in the desert, we did 
 not fare like anchorites ; and the summer moon rose 
 on the scattered fires, and the gay bivouac, and the 
 snatches of song and chorus that from time to time 
 woke the unaccustomed echoes of Lake Huron. 
 
 Entering the United States again, I made a rapid 
 journey, by Lakes Champlam and George, by Ticon- 
 deroga and Saratoga, historic names ; spent four very 
 delightful days in most attractive society in a New 
 England village, revived the beauteous impressions 
 of the Hudson, and, taking leave of friends not soon 
 to be forgotten, on the quay of New- York, left the 
 hospitable shore. 
 
 You will have perceived, that in these desultory 
 notes I have not attempted to pronounce any formal
 
 72 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 judgment upon the American people, or the great ex- 
 periment they are conducting in the face of the world. 
 The extreme diversity of habits, manners, opinions, 
 feelings, race, and origin, in the several parts of the 
 wide extent of country I traversed, would render the 
 difficulty, great in any case, of such an undertaking, 
 still more subtle and complicated. The striking con- 
 trasts in such a shifting and variegated aspect of soci- 
 ety, make me feel that any such general and dashing 
 summary could only be attempted after the fashion of 
 a passage which I have always much admired in Gib- 
 bon, where, wishing to give a fair view of the poetical 
 character of Claudian, he sums up separately his mer- 
 its and defects, and leaves his reader to strike the just 
 balance. In some such mode it might be stated that 
 North America, viewed at first with respect to her nat- 
 ural surface, exhibits a series of scenery, various, rich, 
 and, in some of its features, unparalleled ; though she 
 cannot, on the whole, equal Europe in her mountain 
 elevations, how infinitely does she surpass her in rivers, 
 estuaries, and lakes. This variegated surface of earth 
 and water is seen under a sky warm, soft and balmy 

 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 73 
 
 in some clear, blue, and brilliant in all its latitudes, 
 with a transparency of atmosphere which Italy does 
 not reach, with varieties of forest growth and foliage 
 unknown to Europe, and with a splendor of hues in 
 autumn before which painting must despair. With 
 respect to the moral aspect, I naturally feel the diffi- 
 culty of any succinct or comprehensine summary in- 
 finitely heightened. The feature which is the most 
 obvious, and probably the most enviable, is the nearly 
 entire absence, certainly of the appearance, and, in a 
 great degree, of the reality of poverty ; hi no part of 
 the world, I imagine, is there so much general ease 
 and comfort among the great bulk of the people, and 
 a gushing abundance struck me as the prominent cha- 
 racteristic of the land. It is not easy to describe how 
 far this consideration goes to brighten the face of na- 
 ture, and give room for its undisturbed enjoyment. 
 Within a mere span of time, as compared with the 
 general growth and progress of nations, the industry, 
 at once steady and persevering, of the inhabitants, has 
 cleared enormous tracts of forest, reared, among their 
 
 untrodden glades, spacious and stately cities, opened 
 4
 
 74 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 new highways through the swamp and the desert, cov- 
 ered their unequalled rivers with fleets of steamboats 
 and craft of eveiy form, given an extension to canals 
 beyond all previous experience, and filled land and 
 water with hardy miracles of successful enterprise. 
 The traveller, wafted with marvellous ease by steam- 
 boats and railways over prodigious spaces, cannot but 
 indulge in what may appear a mere superficial satisfac- 
 tion at the accommodation he meets with in the hotels 
 of the principal cities, which are regulated on a scale, 
 and with a splendor and even cleanliness which he will 
 find scarcely rivalled in the capitals of Europe. How- 
 ever absorbed in the pursuits of business, agriculture, 
 and trade, the citizens of these young republics may 
 be, and though it would seem to be their obvious voca- 
 tion in life to cultivate almost boundless wastes, and 
 connect almost interminable distances, circles are nev- 
 ertheless to be found among them, which in point of 
 refined and agreeable intercourse, of literary taste, and 
 general accomplishment, it would be difficult for the 
 same capitals of the elder world to surpass ; the Bench 
 and Bar, as well as other professions, can boast both of
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 75 
 
 the solid and brilliant qualities by which they are 
 adorned; and while Tnuch occurs in Congress that 
 must be deemed rough and unseemly, the chords of 
 high and generous feeling are frequently struck within 
 its walls to accents of noble eloquence ; in the univer- 
 sal fluency of their public speaking they undoubtedly 
 surpass ourselves. In rural life I doubt whether the 
 world caji produce more examples of quiet simplicity 
 and prosperous content than would be found, I might 
 say most prominently, in the embowered villages of 
 New England, or the sunny valleys of Pennsylvania. 
 I am sure that I am not wanting in respect for the 
 operative classes of this district, but I cannot conceal 
 from myself that the appearance of the female factory 
 population of Lowell presents some points of favorable 
 contrast. Among the more opulent portion of society, 
 an idle man without regular profession or fixed pur- 
 suit is the exception which excites observation and 
 surprise. The purity of the female character stands 
 deservedly high, and society has been deemed by some 
 to be rendered less agreeable by the rigid devotion of 
 the young married women to their households and
 
 10 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 nurseries. It is something to have travelled nearly 
 over the whole extent of the Union, without having 
 encountered a single specimen either of servility or in- 
 civility of manner ; by the last I intend to denote 
 intentional rudeness. Elections may seem the univer- 
 sal business, topic, and passion of life, but they are, at 
 least with but few exceptions, carried on without any 
 approach to tumult, rudeness, or disorder ; those which 
 I happened to see were the most sedate, unimpassioned 
 processes I can imagine. In the Free States, at least, 
 the people at large bear an active, and I believe, on 
 the whole, a useful part in all the concerns of internal 
 government and practical daily life ; men of all classes, 
 and especially of the more wealthy and instructed, 
 take a zealous share in almost every pursuit of useful- 
 ness and philanthropy ; they visit the hospitals and 
 asylums, they attend the daily instructions of the 
 schools, they give lectures at lyceums and institutes. 
 I am glad to think that I may be treading in their foot- 
 steps on this occasion. I have already mentioned with 
 just praise the universal diffusion and excellent quality 
 of popular education, as established especially in the
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 77 
 
 States of New England, the powerful Empire State of 
 New- York, and, I may add, the prosperous and as- 
 piring State of Ohio. Without venturing to weigh 
 the preponderating recommendations or deficiencies of 
 the Voluntary System, I may fairly ask, what other 
 communities are so amply supplied with the facilities 
 of public worship for all their members ? The towns, 
 old and young, bristle with churches ; they are almost 
 always well filled; the Sabbath, in the Eastern and 
 Northern States at least, is scrupulously observed, and 
 with the most unbounded freedom of conscience, and 
 a nearly complete absence of polemical strife and bit- 
 terness, there is apparently a close unity of feeling 
 and practice in rendering homage to God. 
 
 Though it would appear difficult, and must certainly 
 be ungracious, to paint the reverse side of such a 
 country and such a people, a severe observer would 
 not be long at fault. With respect to their scenery 
 itself, while he could not deny that within its vast ex- 
 panse it contained at times both sublimity and beauty, 
 he might establish against it a charge of monotony, to 
 which the immense continuities of the same surfaces.
 
 *T8 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 whether of hill, valley, wood, lake, or river the 
 straight unbroken skirt of forest, the entire absence of 
 single trees, the square parallelograms of the cleared 
 spaces, the uniform line of zig-zag fences, the staring 
 squareness of the new wooden houses, all powerfully 
 contribute. In regard to climate, without dwelling on 
 such partial influences as the malaria which desolates 
 the stunted pine-barrens of North Carolina, and ban- 
 ishes every white native of South Carolina from their 
 rice-plains during the entire summer, the hot damps 
 which festoon the trees on the southern coast with a 
 funeral drapery of gray moss, the yellow fever which 
 decimates the quays of New Orleans, and the feverish 
 agues which line the banks of the Mississippi, it would 
 be impossible to deny the violent alternations of tem- 
 perature which have a more general prevalence, and it 
 is certain that much fewer robust forms and ruddy 
 complexions are to be seen than in our own more even 
 latitudes. Passing from the physical to the moral at- 
 mosphere, amidst all the vaunted equality of the 
 American freemen, there seemed to be a more implicit 
 deference to custom, a more passive submission to what
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 79 
 
 
 
 is assumed to be the public opinion of the day or hour, 
 than would be paralleled in many aristocratic or even 
 despotic communities. This quiet acquiescence in the 
 prevailing tone, this complete abnegation of individual 
 sentiment, is naturally most perceptible in the domain 
 of politics, but I thought that it also in no inconsider- 
 able degree pervaded the social circle, biassed the de- 
 cisions of the judicial -bench, and even infected the 
 solemn teachings of the pulpit. To this source may 
 probably in some measure be traced the remarkable 
 similarity in the manners, deportment, conversation, 
 and tone of feeling, which has so generally struck 
 travellers from abroad in American society. Who that 
 has seen, can ever forget the slow and melancholy si- 
 lence of the couples who walk arm-in-arm to the ta- 
 bles of the great hotels, or of the unsocial groups who 
 gather round the greasy meals of the steamboats, lap 
 up the five minutes' meal, come like shadows, so de- 
 part ? One of their able public men made an obser- 
 vation to me, which struck me as pungent, and per- 
 haps true, that it was probably the country in which 
 there was less misery and less happiness than in any
 
 80 TRAVKL8 IN AMERICA. 
 
 other of the world. There are other points of man- 
 ners on which I am not inclined to dilate, but to which 
 it would at least require time to be reconciled. I may 
 just intimate that their native plant of tobacco lies at 
 the root of much that we might think objectionable. 
 However necessary and laudable the general devotion 
 to habits of industry and the practical business of life 
 may be, and though there are- families and circles in 
 which no grace, no charm, no accomplishment, are 
 wanting, yet it cannot be denied, that among the na- 
 tion at large, the empire of dollars, cents, and mate- 
 rial interests, holds a very preponderating sway, and 
 t that art and all its train of humanities exercise at pre- 
 sent but an enfeebled and restricted influence. If we 
 ascend from social to political life, and From manners 
 to institutions, we should find that the endless cycles of 
 electioneering preparations and contests, although they 
 may be carried on for the most part without the riot- 
 ous turbulence, or overt bribery, by which they are 
 sometimes but too notoriously disgraced among our- 
 selves, still leave no intermission for repose in the pub- 
 lic mind ; enter into all the relations of existence ; sub-
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 81 
 
 ordinate to themselves every other question of internal 
 and foreign policy ; lead their public men, I will not 
 say their best, but the average of them, to pander to 
 the worst prejudices, the meanest tastes, the most ma- 
 lignant resentments of the people ; at each change of 
 administration incite the new rulers to carry the spirit 
 of proscription into every department of the public ser- 
 vice, from the Minister at a great foreign court, to the 
 postmaster of some half-barbarous outpost, thus 
 tending to render those whose functions ought to with- 
 draw them the most completely from party influences 
 the most unscrupulous partisans ; and would make 
 large masses welcome war and even acquiesce in ruin, 
 if it appeared that they could thus counteract the an- 
 tagonist tactics, humiliate the rival leader, or remotely 
 influence the election of the next President. It is al- 
 ready painfully felt, that as far as the universal choice 
 of the people was relied on to secure for the highest 
 office of the state the most commanding ability or the 
 most signal merit, it may be pronounced to have failed. 
 There may be less habitual and actual noise in Con- 
 gress than in our own Parliament, but the time of the 
 4*
 
 82 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 House of Representatives, not without cost to the con- 
 stituent body which pays for their services, is contin- 
 uously taken up, when not engrossed by a speech of 
 some days' duration, with wrangles upon points of or- 
 der and angry recrimination ; the language used in de- 
 bate has occasionally sounded the lowest depths of 
 coarse and virulent acrimony, and the floor of the 
 Legislative Hall has actually been the scene of violent 
 personal rencounter. The manners of the barely civi- 
 lized West, where it has been known that counsel 
 challenge judges on the bench, and Members of the 
 Legislature fire off rifles at the Speaker as he sits in 
 the chair, would appear to be gradually invading 
 the very inner shrine of the Constitution. Having 
 done justice to the strictness and purity of morals 
 which distinguish many of the more settled portions 
 of the continent, it cannot be concealed that the reck- 
 less notions and habits of the vagrant pioneers of the 
 West, evinced as these are by the practices of gam- 
 bling, drinking, and licentiousness, by an habitual disre- 
 gard of the Sabbath, and by more constant swearing 
 than I ever heard any where else, fearfully disfigure
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 83 
 
 that great valley of the Mississippi, destined inevitably, 
 at no distant day, to be the preponderating section of 
 the entire Union. It is at this day impossible to go 
 into any society, especially of the older and more 
 thoughtful men, some of whom may themselves have 
 borne an eminent part in the earlier struggles and ser- 
 vice of the commonwealth, without hearing the dege- 
 neracy of modern times, and the downward tendency 
 of all things, despondingly insisted upon. At the pe- 
 riod of my visit, besides the numerous instances of indi- 
 vidual bankruptcy and insolvency, not, alas ! peculiar 
 to the New World, the doctrine of repudiation, offi- 
 cially promulgated by sovereign States, had given an 
 unpleasing confirmation to what is perhaps the pre- 
 vailing tendency among retired politicians. I have re- 
 served for the last topic of animadversion the crowning 
 evil the capital danger the mortal plague-spot 
 Slavery. I have not disclaimed the original responsi- 
 bility of my own country in introducing and riveting it 
 upon her dependencies ; I do not disguise the porten- 
 tous difficulties in the way of adequate remedy to the 
 great and growing disease, But what I cannot shut
 
 84 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 
 
 my eyes on is, that while it lasts, it must still continue, 
 in addition to the actual amount of suffering and 
 wrong which it entails on the enslaved, to operate 
 with terrible re-action on the dominant class, to blunt 
 the moral sense, to sap domestic virtue, to degrade in- 
 dependent industry, to check the onward march of en- 
 terprise, to sow the seeds of suspicion, alarm, and ven- 
 geance in both internal and external intercourse, to 
 distract the national councils, to threaten the perma- 
 nence of the Union, and to leave a brand, a ^bye-word, 
 and a jest upon the name of Freedom. 
 
 Having thus endeavored, without consciousness of 
 any thing mis-stated or exaggerated, though of much 
 that is wanting and incomplete on either side, to sum 
 up the good and the bad, I leave my hearers to draw 
 their own conclusions from the whole ; there are large 
 materials both for approval and attack, ample grounds 
 both for hope and fear. Causes are occasionally at 
 work which almost appear to portend a disruption of 
 the Federal Union ; at the same time a strong senti- 
 ment of pride about it, arising partly from an honest 
 patriotism, partly from a feeling of complacency in its
 
 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 85 
 
 very size and extent, may tend indefinitely to postpone 
 any such pregnant result ; but whatever may be the 
 solution of that question, whatever the issue of the 
 future destinies assigned to the great American Repub- 
 lic, it is impossible to have contemplated her extent, 
 her resources, the race that has mainly peopled her, 
 the institutions she has derived or originated, the liber- 
 ty which has been their life-blood, the industry which 
 has been their offspring, and the free Gospel which 
 has been published on her wide plains and wafted by 
 her thousand streams, without nourishing the belief, 
 and the hope, that it is reserved for her to do much, in 
 the coming generations, for the good of man and the 
 glory of God.
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 I HAVE undertaken to read a paper on " The Poetry 
 of Pope." My hearers, however, will be sorely disap- 
 pointed, and my own purpose will have been singularly 
 misconstrued, if any expectation should exist that I am 
 about to bring any fresh matter or information to the 
 subject with which I am about to deal. Such means 
 of illustration, I trust, may be amply supplied by Mr. 
 Croker, who has announced a new edition of Pope, a 
 task for which both his ability and his long habits of 
 research appear well to qualify him. As little is it 
 within either my purpose or my power to present you 
 with any novelty of view, or originality of theory, either 
 upon poetry in general? or the poetry of Pope in par-
 
 88 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 ticular. The task that I have ventured, perhaps rashly, 
 to impose upon myself, has a much more simple, and, 
 I am willing to hope, less personal aim. 
 
 It is briefly this. It has seemed to me for a very 
 long time, I should say from about the period of my 
 own early youth, that the character and reputation of 
 Pope, as a poet, had sunk, in general contemporary es- 
 timation, considerably below their previous, and their 
 proper level. I felt ruffled at this, as an injustice to an 
 author whom my childhood had been taught to admire 
 and whom the verdict of my maturer reason approved. 
 I lamented this, because I thought that the extent of 
 this depreciation on the one side, and of the preferences 
 which it necessarily produced on the other, must have 
 a tendency to mislead the public taste, and to misdirect 
 
 , the powers of our rising minstrels. 
 
 I allow myself the satisfaction of thinking that there 
 are already manifest some symptoms of that re-action, 
 which, whenever real merit or essential truth is con- 
 cerned, will always ensue upon unmerited depression. 
 
 ( I remember, too, that it s^ve me quite a refreshing 
 sensation to find, during my travels in the United States
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 89 
 
 of America, that among some of the most literary and 
 cultivated portions of that great community (although 
 I would not more implicitly trust to young America 
 than I would to Young England on this point), the 
 reverence for Pope still partook largely of the sounder 
 original faith of the parent land. I fear, however, that 
 there is still enough of heresy extant among us, to 
 justify one, who considers himself a true worshipper, 
 who almost bows to the claim of this form of Popish 
 infallibility, in making such efforts as may be within his 
 power to win back any doubtful or hesitating votary to 
 the abandoned shrine. 
 
 The attitude, then, in which I appear before you on 
 the present occasion, is this. I look on myself as a 
 counsel, self-constituted it is true, but for whose sin- 
 cerity the absence of any fee may be considered as a 
 sufficient guarantee ; and here, then, in the short space 
 which can be allowed by this Court for the business of 
 the defence, I consider myself bound to put before you 
 such pleas as I may think best calculated to get a ver- 
 dict from you on my side of the case. 
 
 The best plan, which, as it appears to me, I can
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 adopt for disarming any reasonable suspicion on the 
 part of my jurors (all, I feel sure, candid and enlight- 
 ened men), as well as for doing justice to my own 
 character as a critic, is to state frankly what I do not 
 claim for my client, the late Alexander Pope. I do 
 not, then, pretend to place him on the very highest 
 pedestal of poetry, among the few foremost of the 
 tuneful monarchs and lawgivers of mankind. Confining 
 ourselves to our own country, I do not of course, ask 
 you to put him on a level with the universal, undispu- 
 ted, unassailable supremacy of Shakspeare nor with 
 Milton, of whom Mr. Macaulay, whom this town once 
 honored itself by making its representative, has lately 
 thus beautifully spoken : 
 
 " A mightier spirit, unsubdued by pain, danger, 
 poverty, obloquy, and blindness, meditated, undisturbed 
 by the obscene tumult which raged all around, a song 
 so sublime and so holy, that it could not have misbe- 
 come the lips of those ethereal beings whom he saw, 
 with that inner eye which no calamity could darken, 
 flinging down on the jasper pavement their crowns of 
 amaranth and gold."
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 91 
 
 I fancy that some might wish to make a further re- 
 serve for the gentle fancy of Spenser, though the ob- 
 solete character of much of his phraseology, and the 
 tediousness inseparable from all forms of sustained 
 allegory, must, I apprehend, in these days, very con- 
 siderably contract the number of his readers. Nay, I 
 can quite allow for the preference being given to Pope's 
 more immediate predecessor, Dryden, whose composi- 
 tions, though assuredly less finished and complete, un- 
 doubtedly exhibit a more nervous vein of argumenta- 
 tive power, and a greater variety of musical rhythm. 
 When I have mentioned these august names, I have 
 mentioned all, writing in the English tongue, who, in 
 my humble apprehension, can possibly be classed before 
 Pope. 
 
 I may observe, that in this estimate I appear to be 
 confirmed by the present Commissioners of Fine Arts, 
 who, in selecting the Poets from whose works subjects 
 for six vacant spaces in the new Palace of Westminster 
 were to be executed by living artists, named Chaucer 
 (who by his antiquity as well as his merits was 
 properly appointed to lead the line of English
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 bards), Shakspeare, Spenser, Milton, Dryden, and 
 , Pope. 
 
 Though I conceive, and you will readily concur, that 
 the case I am endeavoring to make good must be 
 mainly established by my client's own precise words, 
 and the anticipated pleasure of quoting them to atten- 
 tive ears has been, perhaps, my chief inducement to 
 undertake the office which I am now fulfilling, yet I 
 consider it will not be out of place for the object I have 
 in view, especially before an audience of a nation which 
 much delights in, and is indeed much ruled by, pre- 
 cedent, if I should quote a few approved authorities 
 (had time permitted I might have availed myself of a 
 great number), merely for the purpose of showing that 
 if you should be pleased to side with me in this issue, 
 we shall find ourselves in company of*which we shall 
 have no need to be ashamed. 
 
 I shall also thus furnish a proof of what I have 
 stated above, th'at I am not straining after originality 
 or novelty of remark ; indeed, I feel that I shall make 
 way in proportion as the testimony I adduce proceeds 
 from lips more trustworthy than my own.
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 93 
 
 What says Savage, a poet himself of irregular, but 
 no mean genius ? He thus speaks of Pope : 
 
 " Though gay as mirth, as curious thought sedate, 
 As elegance polite, as power elate, 
 Profound as reason, and as justice clear, 
 Soft as persuasion, yet as truth severe, 
 As bounty copious, as persuasion sweet, 
 Like nature various, and like art complete ; 
 So fine her morals, so sublime her views, 
 His life is almost equalled by his muse." 
 
 Part of this commendation, I must admit, appears 
 even to me overstrained. Some of Pope's composi- 
 tions are marred by occasional coarseness and indeli- 
 cacy, and his mind and character, I fear it must be 
 allowed, were at times disfigured by envy, resentment, 
 and littleness. Compared, however, with most of his 
 predecessors of the reign of Charles II., and with 
 many of his own contemporaries, both his muse and 
 his life may have been deemed decent and severe. He 
 seems himself, at all events, to have indulged in this 
 estimate of the tenor of his own productions :
 
 94 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 " Curst be the verse, how well soe'er it flow, 
 That tends to make one honest man my foe, 
 Give virtue scandal, innocence a fear, 
 Or from the soft-eyed virgin steal a tear." 
 
 I return to my authorities. 
 
 I do not quote Bishop Warburton, as he was the 
 avowed apologist, as well as executor and editor, of 
 Pope. 
 
 Dr. Joseph Warton, who wrote an essay on the genius 
 and writings of Pope, chiefly with a view of proving 
 what I have admitted above, that he ought not to be 
 ranked in the highest class of our native poets, and 
 who appears to wish, as I certainly do not, to have a 
 hit at him whenever he can, concedes, however, thus 
 much to him : 
 
 " In the species of poetry wherein Pope excelled, 
 he is superior to all mankind, and I only say that this 
 species of poetry is not the most excellent one of the 
 art. He is the great poet of reason, the first of ethi- 
 cal authors in verse." 
 
 Dr. Johnson, in his well-known and most agreeable 
 life of Pope, says thus : 

 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 95 
 
 " Of his intellectual character, the constituent and 
 fundamental principle" was good sense ;" and then, 
 " Pope had likewise genius, a mind active, ambitious, 
 and adventurous, always investigating, always aspiring, 
 in its widest searches longing to go forward, in its 
 highest flights still wishing to be higher." 
 
 And at the close of the masterly contrast which he 
 draws between Dryden and Pope, he thus sums it 
 up: 
 
 " If the flights of Dryden are higher, Pope con- 
 tinues longer on the wing ; if of Dryden's fire the 
 blaze is brighter, of Pope is the heat more regular and 
 constant. Dryden often surpasses expectation, and 
 Pope never falls below it. Dryden is read with fre- 
 quent astonishment, and Pope with perpetual delight." 
 
 Mason, also a poet and very accomplished man,who 
 had done so much in editing and illustrating the works 
 of another most eminent and admirable master of his 
 art (I refer to Gray), has shown what an exalted esti- 
 mate he had formed of Pope, in the passage where 
 he reproaches him for the undue praise which he had
 
 96 TriE POETRY OF POPfi. 
 
 lavished on the famous Henry St. John, Lord Boling- 
 broke : 
 
 " Call we the shade of Pope from that blest bower, 
 
 Where throned he sits with many a tuneful sage ; 
 Ask, if he ne'er repents that luckless hour, 
 When St. John's name illumined glory's page. 
 
 Ask, If the wretch who dared his honor stain, 
 
 Ask, if his country's, his religion's foe, 
 Deserved the wreath that Marlboro' failed to gain, 
 
 The deathless meed, he only/could bestow ?" 
 
 George, Lord Lyttelton, another poet himself, calls 
 him " The sweetest and most elegant of English poets, 
 the severest chastizer of vice, and the most persuasive 
 teacher of wisdom." 
 
 How speaks Campbell, the author of the Pleasures 
 of Hope, and the Battle of the Baltic ? If any one 
 is entitled to speak of what true poetry is, that right 
 will not be denied to Thomas Campbell. He calls 
 Pope, " a genuine poet," and says with true discrimi- 
 nation : 
 
 " The public ear was long fatigued with repetitions 

 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 97 
 
 of 1 his manner ; but if "we place ourselves in the situa- 
 tion of those to whom his brilliancy, succinctness, and 
 animation were wholly new, we cannot wonder at their / 
 being captivated to the fondest admiration." 
 
 I will only further cite from the poets whom 'many 
 of us remember in our own day, one still more illus- 
 trious name. The fervid, wayward, irregular muse of 
 Lord Byron, presented the strongest points of contrast 
 with the measured, even, highly-trained, smoothly- 
 polished, temperament of Pope. What did Lord j 
 Byron think of Pope ? He terms him, " The most 
 perfect and harmonious of poets he, who, having no 
 fault, has had reason made his reproach. It is this 
 very harmony which has raised the vulgar and atro- 
 cious cant against him (Lord Byron was fond of 
 using strong language) : because his versification is 
 perfect, it is assumed that it is his only perfection ; be- 
 cause his truths are so clear, it is asserted that he has 
 no invention ; and because he is always intelligible, it 
 is taken for granted that he has no genius. I have 
 loved and honored the fame and name of that illustri- 
 ous and unrivalled man, far more than my own paltry 
 5
 
 98 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 renown, and the trashy jingle of that crowd of schools 
 and upstarts who pretend to rival or even surpass him. 
 Sooner than a single leaf should be torn from his laurel, 
 it were better that all which these men, and that I, as 
 one of their set, have ever written, should line trunks." 
 
 There is another and more general testimony to the 
 reputation, at least, if not to the actual merits of Pope, 
 which may be here mentioned ; this is, the extent to 
 which his lines are quoted as familiar maxims and illus- 
 trations of the daily incidents of life, and the common 
 meanings of men, quoted often probably by persons 
 who have little knowledge or recollection where the 
 words are to be found. I am inclined to believe that, 
 in this respect, and it is one not to be considered 
 slightingly, he would be found to ocupy the second 
 place, next, of course, to the universal Shakspeare 
 himself. Allow me to cite a few instances. 
 
 When there has been a pleasant party of people, 
 either in a convivial or intellectual view I wish we 
 might think it of our meeting this evening we say 
 that it has been 
 
 " The feast of reason, and the flow of soul."
 
 TTIE POETRY OF POPE. 99 
 
 How often are we warned I have sometimes even 
 heard the warning addressed to Mechanics' Institutes, 
 that 
 
 " A litlle learning is a dangerous thing/' 
 
 How often reminded, 
 
 " An honest man's the noblest work of God," 
 
 Or, with nearly the same meaning, 
 
 " Who taught the useful science, to be good." 
 
 There is a couplet which I ought to carry in my own 
 recollection 
 
 " What can ennoble sots, or slaves, or cowards ? 
 Alas ! not all the blood of all the Howards." 
 
 It is an apt illustration of the offices of hospitality, 
 
 " Welcome the coming, speed the going guest.'* 
 
 How familiar is the instruction, 
 
 " To look, through Nature, up to Nature's God^ 1 

 
 100 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 As rules with reference to composition, 
 
 " The last and greatest art the art to blot." 
 " To snatch a grace beyond the reach of art ;" 
 
 And then as to the best mode of conveying the instruc- 
 tion, 
 
 " Men must be taught as if you taught them not." 
 
 There is the celebrated definition of wit : 
 
 " True wit is nature to advantage dressed ; 
 What oft was thought, but ne'er so well expressed." 
 
 Do you want to illustrate the importance of early edu- 
 cation ? You observe, 
 
 " Just as the twig is bent the tree's inclined." 
 
 Do you wish to characterize ambition somewhat favor- 
 ably ? You call it, 
 
 u The glorious fault of angels and of gods." 
 
 Or Describing a great conqueror, 
 
 " A mighty hunter, and his prey was man."
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 101 
 
 Do you seek the safest rule for architecture or garden- 
 ing? 
 
 tt Consult the genius of the place in all ;" 
 
 Or, with exquisite good sense, 
 
 " 'Tis use alone that sanctifies expense, 
 And splendor borrows all her rays from sense." 
 
 Are you tempted to say any thing rather severe to 
 your wife or daughter, when she insists on a party of 
 pleasure, or an expensive dress ? You tell her, 
 
 " That every woman is at heart a rake." 
 
 And then, if you wish to excuse your own submission, 
 you plead 
 
 " If to her share some female errors fall, 
 Look on her face and you'll forget them all." 
 
 How often are we inclined to echo the truth 
 
 " That fools rush in where angels fear to tread," 
 
 And this too, 
 
 u That gentle dnlness often loves a joke."
 
 102 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 Who has not felt this to be true ? 
 
 " Hope springs eternal in the human breast ; 
 Man never is, but always to be blest." 
 
 When an orator, or a Parliamentary candidate in 
 which last capacity I have often appeared before some 
 of you wishes to rail at absolute governments, he 
 talks of % 
 
 " The monstrous faith of many made for one." 
 
 Then there are two maxims, one in politics and one in 
 religion, which have both been extensively found fault 
 with, but the very amount of censure proves what 
 alone I am now attempting to establish, not the truth 
 or justice of Pope's words, but their great vogue and 
 currency : 
 
 " For forms of government let fools contest ; 
 Whate'er is best administered is best: 
 For modes of faith let graceless zealots fight ; 
 His can't be wrong whose life is in the right." 
 
 It is now time to judge Pope from his own works,
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE, 103 
 
 by which, of course, his place in the estimate of posteri- 
 ty must finally stand. 
 
 I shall pass hurriedly by his earlier compositions. 
 He tells us himself of the precocity of his genius ; 
 
 " I lisped in numbers, for the numbers came." 
 
 But his very youthful productions, on the whole, appear 
 to be more remarkable for their dates than their intrin- 
 sic merits. He wrote his Pastorals at sixteen. Inde- 
 pendently of the age at which they were written, they 
 appear to me trivial, forced, out of keeping with the 
 English soil and life to which they are by way of being 
 assigned. One piece of praise is justly their due ; after 
 the publication of these verses by a youth, we may call 
 him a boy, of sixteen, I do not see why a rugged or 
 inharmonious English verse need ever again have been 
 written ; and what is more, I believe very- few such 
 have been written. Mr. Macaulay says on this point, 
 " From the time when the Pastorals appeared, heroic 
 versification became matter of rule and compass, and, 
 before long, all artists were on a level." It was surely 
 better that this level should be one upon which the
 
 104 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 reader could travel smoothly along, without jolts or 
 stumbles. 
 
 In the short poem of the Messiah, I do justice to the 
 stately flow of verse upon the highest of human themes. 
 Both Dr. Johnson and Dr. Warton give it a decided 
 preference over the Pollio of Virgil, which is concerned 
 with topics of close and wonderful similarity. I do not 
 know how far they are right, but I feel quite sure that 
 both the Pollio of Virgil and the Messiah of Pope fall 
 immeasurably below the prose translation of Isaiah in 
 our Bibles. 
 
 Windsor Forest appears to be on the whole a cold 
 production. It contains some good lines on the poet 
 Earl of Surrey 
 
 " Matchless his pen, victorious was his lance, 
 Bold in the lists, and graceful in the dance" 
 
 an extremely pretty account of the flight and plumage 
 of a^heasant, a very poetical list of the tributaries of 
 the Thames, and some well-sounding verses on the 
 Peace of Utrecht, then recently concluded, from which 
 in the early part of this year I was induced to quote
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 105 
 
 some lines which I thought very apposite to the pro- 
 posed Exhibition of the Industry of All Nations, at 
 London, in 1851 : 
 
 " The time shall come, when, free as seas or wind, 
 Unbounded Thames shall flow for all mankind, 
 Whole nations enter with each swelling tide. 
 And seas but join the regions they divide ; 
 Earth's distant ends our glories shall behold, 
 And the new world launch forth to meet the old." 
 
 The Odes written by Pope are decidedly of an infe- 
 rior caste. I need not say how inferior to the immor- 
 tal Ode on St. Cecilia's Day, by Dryden, who preceded 
 or how inferior to Gray or Campbell, who have fol- 
 lowed him. The Ode, perhaps, of every species of 
 poetical composition, was the most alien to the genius 
 of Pope ; its character is rapt, vehement, abrupt ; his 
 is composed, polished, methodical ; his haunt would 
 not be the mountain top, or the foaming cataract, but 
 the smooth parterre and the gilded saloon. You may 
 prefer one bent of mind, as you would one form of 
 scenery ; the question with which I now invite you to 
 deal is, not in what style Pope wrote, but in the style 
 5*
 
 106 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 which he chose, and for which his nature best fitted 
 him, how far he excelled. 
 
 Among the very youthful productions of Pope, there 
 were also some adaptations from Chaucer, Ovid, and 
 one or two more ancient authors ; in point of execution 
 they are only distinguished by their smooth versifica- 
 tion, and the matter of them ought to have forbidden 
 the attempt. 
 
 In speaking as I have done of many of Pope's earlier 
 compositions, however I may assume myself to be a 
 devoted admirer partisan if you should so please to 
 term it I conceive that I have at least shown' that 
 hitherto I am no indiscriminate praiser, who thinks that 
 every thing which proceeds from his favorite must be 
 perfect. On the contrary, though his facility in writing 
 verses was almost precocious, the complete mastery of 
 his art seems to have been gradually and laboriously 
 developed. " So regular my rage," was the descrip- 
 tion which he has himself applied to his own poetry. 
 It was not so much " the pomp and prodigality of 
 heaven," which have been allotted to a few ; it was 
 rather, in the edifice of song which he has reared, that
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 107 
 
 nicety of detail, and that completeness of finish, where 
 every stroke of the hammer tells, and every nail holds 
 its exact place. 
 
 His early friend and admirer, Walsh, seems accu- 
 rately to have discerned the path of excellence which 
 was open for him, when he told him that there was 
 one way in which he might excel any of his predeces- 
 sors, which was by correctness, for though we had be- 
 fore him several great poets, we could boast of none 
 that were perfectly correct. Pope justified the advice, 
 and if correctness is not the highest pi-aise to which a 
 poet can aspire, it is no mean distinction to show how 
 an author can be almost faultlessly correct, and almost 
 as invariably the reverse of all that is tame, mean, or 
 flat. 
 
 There come, however, among compositions which in 
 any one else would most strictly be called early, a few 
 which will not bear to be dismissed with such a hasty 
 or superficial notice. The Essay on Criticism was 
 written when he was twenty or twenty-one years old, 
 and as such it appears a positive marvel. But he had 
 now entered a field on which he was quite a master
 
 108 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 the domain of good sense and of good taste, applied 
 to the current literature of a scholar, and the common 
 topics of life. 
 
 Very soon after, however, as if to show that if he had 
 willed it, he could have exercised as full a mastery over 
 the region of light fancy and sportive imagery, as of 
 sober reflection and practical wisdom, he wrote what 
 is termed a heroi- comic poem, the Rape of the Lock. 
 Dr. Johnson calls this the most exquisite example of 
 ludicrous poetiy, though I do not think the word ludi- 
 crous a happy epithet of the Doctor's; Dr. Warton 
 calls it the best satire extant ; and we are told that 
 Pope himself considered the intermixture of the ma- 
 chinery of the sylphs with the ac.tion of the story, as 
 the most successful exertion of his art. As my busi- 
 ness to-night is more with Pope on the whole as a poet, 
 than with the details and the conduct of his single 
 poems, I must not suffer myself to linger on the details 
 of this delicious work. It is so finished and nicely 
 fitted together, that it would scarcely answer to sepa- 
 rate any isolated passages from the context ; besides, 
 exquisite as the entire poem is, yet, the subject beino-
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 109 
 
 professedly trivia], any single extract might appear de- 
 ficient in importance and dignity. The whole is as 
 sparkling as the jewelled cross upon the bosom of the 
 heroine, 
 
 On her white breast a sparkling cross she bore, 
 Which Jews might kiss, and Infidels adore." 
 
 It is as stimulating as the pinch of snuff he so com- 
 pactly describes, 
 
 " The pungent grains of titillating dust." 
 
 But there was one other chord of the poetic lyre 
 which Pope, still young in years, had yet to show his 
 power to strike, and it is the most thrilling in the whole 
 compass of song the poetry of the passions and the 
 heart. To this class I assign the Elegy to the Memory 
 of an Unfortunate Lady, and the ever memorable 
 Epistle from Eloisa to Abelard. A few words will 
 suffice here for the Elegy ; its moral tendency cannot 
 be defended, as it appears, incidentally at least, to ex- 
 cuse and consecrate suicide. In its execution it com- 
 bines in a high degree poetic diction with pathetic
 
 110 THE POETRY OF TOPE. 
 
 feeling. I must pause longer on the Epistle from 
 Eloisa to Abelard. I ought, however, before I give 
 vent to the full glow of panegyric, to make two ad- 
 missions ; one, that a sensitive delicacy would have 
 avoided the subject ; the other, that the matter is not 
 original, but is supplied in great degree by the actual 
 letters of the distinguished and unfortunate pair who 
 gave their name to the epistle. Where the adaptation, 
 however, is so consummate, this makes a very slight 
 deduction from the merit of the author. The poem is 
 not long, but in point of execution it appears to me 
 one of the most faultless of human compositions ; every 
 thought is passion, and every line is music. The strug- 
 gle between aspiring piety and forbidden love forms its 
 basis, and the scenery and accessories of monastic life 
 and the Roman Catholic ritual, furnish a background 
 highly congenial, solemn, and picturesque. 
 
 I must endeavor to justify my panegyric by a few 
 quotations. The commendation of letter-writing is 
 well known. It seems to me still more applicable 
 since the introduction of the penny stamp.
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. Ill 
 
 " Heaven first taught letters for some wretch's aid, 
 Some banish'd lover, or some captive maid ; 
 They live, they speak, they breathe what love inspires, 
 Warm from the soul, and faithful to its fires, 
 The virgin's wish without her fears impart, 
 Excuse the blush, and pour out all the heart ; 
 Speed the soft intercourse from soul to soul, 
 And waft a sigh from Indus to the Pole." 
 
 I give the description of the Convent founded by 
 Abelard : 
 
 "You raised these hallowed walls ; the desert smiled, 
 And Paradise was opened in the wild. 
 No weeping orphan saw his father's stores 
 Our shrines irradiate, or emblaze the floors ; 
 No silver saints, by dying raisers given, 
 Here bribe the rage of ill-requited heaven ; 
 But such plain roofs as piety could raise, 
 And only vocal with the Maker's praise." 
 
 There is the same scene colored by Eloisa's own 
 state of mind : 
 
 " But o'er the twilight groves and dusky caves, 
 Long sounding aisles, and intermingled graves, 
 Black Melancholy sits, and round her throws 
 A death-like silence and a dreud repose. 

 
 112 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 Her gloomy presence saddens all the scene, 
 Shades every flower, and darkens every green, 
 Deepens the murmur of the falling floods, 
 And breathes a browner horror o'er the woods." 
 
 This is surely eminently poetical and expressive. 
 She refers to the happier destiny of the nun who is 
 entirely true to her vocation : 
 
 ' How happy is the blameless vestal's lot, 
 The world forgetting, by the world forgot ! 
 Eternal sunshine of the spotless mind ! 
 Each prayer accepted, and each wish resigned ; 
 Labor and rest that equal periods keep, 
 Obedient slumbers that can wake and weep ; 
 Desires composed, affections ever even, 
 Tears that delight, and sighs that waft to heaven." 
 
 Let me give the description of her first acquaintance 
 with Abelard : 
 
 ''Thou know'st how guiltless first I met thy flame, 
 When love approached me under friendship's name ; 
 My fancy formed thee of angelic kind, 
 Some emanation of th' All-beauteous mind. 
 Those smiling eyes, attempering every ray, 
 Shone sweetly lambent with celestial day. 
 Guiltless I gaz'd ; heaven listened while you sung, 
 And truths divine came mended from that tongue."
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 113 
 
 In that beautiful line, the force of human passion 
 seems to obtain the mastery over the concerns of an- 
 other life ; but I will close my extracts from this poem 
 with the wishes she forms for their last meeting, in 
 which piety appears finally to predominate over pas- 
 sion : 
 
 " Thou. Abelard ! the last sad office pay, 
 And smooth my passage to the realms of day. 
 See my lips tremble, and my eyeballs roll, 
 Suck my last breath, and catch my flying soul! 
 Ah no in sacred vestments raay'st thou stand, 
 The hallowed taper trembling- In thy hand. 
 
 (You remark all the force in that word " trembling ;" 
 in the next line, observe how the words " present " and 
 " lifted " carry on the drama of the scene) : 
 
 Present the cross befo<e my lifted eye, 
 Teach me at once, and leam of me to die ; 
 Ah then, thy once-loved Eloisa see, 
 It will be then no crime to gaze on me. 
 
 (That is, I think, a highly impassioned and pathetic 
 line.) 
 
 See from my cheek the transient roses fly,
 
 114 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 ("Transient," in the literal meaning of the word, 
 passing off.) 
 
 See the last sparkle languish in my eye ! 
 Till every motion, pulse, and breath be o'er ; 
 And e'en my Abelard be loved no more. 
 O death, all eloquent ! you only prove, 
 What dust we dote on when 'tis man we love." 
 
 It would be a strange omission in an estimate of the 
 poetical achievements of Pope, to make no mention of 
 his translation of Homer, though the fact of its being 
 a translation, and its length, would both rather put it 
 beyond the limits of my present criticism. Dr. John- 
 son calls his Iliad, and I am inclined to believe with no 
 more than perfect truth, the noblest version of poetry 
 which the world has ever s^een. The main objection 
 alleged against it is, that being a professed translation 
 of Homer, it is not Homeric that it is full of grace 
 and sparkle, but misses the unmatched simplicity and 
 majesty of that great father of verse, that, if I may 
 so express myself, it has not the twang of Homer. 
 All this, I think, must be admitted; by some the 
 poems of Sir Walter Scott, and old ballads like Chevy 

 
 THE POETRY OF PO1>E. 115 
 
 Chase, have been thought to convey a better notion of 
 this Homeric twang than can be gathered from all the 
 polished couplets of Pope. Cowper (an honored 
 name) tried a more literal version in blank verse, which 
 certainly may be said to represent more closely at least 
 the simplicity of the original. Let us, however, come 
 to the practical test as Lord Byron has asked con- 
 cerning these two translations, " Who can ever read 
 Cowper, and who will ever lay down Pope, except for 
 the original ? As a child I first read Pope's Homer 
 with a rapture which no subsequent work could ever 
 afford, and children are not the worst judges of their 
 own language." It is no mean praise that it is the 
 channel which has conveyed the knowledge of Homer 
 to the general English public, not to our scholars, of 
 course. Though it is far less to the purpose how I 
 felt about this as a child, than how Lord Byron felt, I 
 too remember the days (I fear, indeed, that the anec- 
 dote will savor of egotism, but I must not mind the 
 imputation of egotism, if it illustrates my author), when 
 I used to learn Pope's Iliad by heart behind a screen, 
 while I was supposed to be engaged on lessons of
 
 116 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 more direct usefulness ; and I fancy that I was under 
 the strange hallucination at the time that I had got by 
 heart the four first books. I do not mention this as a 
 profitable example, but in order to show the degree in 
 which this translation was calculated to gain the mas- 
 tery over the youthful mind. 
 
 All the poems of Pope, to which I have already re- 
 ferred, belong to that period of life which, in all ordi- 
 nary cases, would be called youth. I believe that they 
 must have have been nearly altogether completed be- 
 fore he was thirty. Those which I may further have 
 to quote from (in doing which I shall hardly think it 
 necessary to observe so much separate order between 
 the different poems as heretofore), were the fruits of 
 his matured years and settled powers. They hence- 
 forth fall under one class of composition, that which 
 treats of men, their manners, and their morals ; they 
 are comprised under the titles of satires and moral 
 essays. He himself speaks of the bent which his 
 genius now adopted, 
 
 " That not in fancy's maze he wandered long, 
 But stooped to truth, and moralized his sonjf,"
 
 THfe POETRY OF POPE. llV 
 
 Upon which I again feel happy to find myself in full 
 acquiescence with Lord Byron, who says, " He should 
 have written, rose to truth. In my mind the highest 
 of all poetry is ethical poetry, as the highest of all 
 earthly subjects must be moral truth." 
 
 Lord Bolingbroke and Bishop Atterbury, certainly 
 no mean judges of intellectual merit, declared that the 
 strength of Pope's genius lay eminently and peculiarly 
 in satire. What shall I, then, single out as an illustra- 
 tion of his satiric vein ? The character of Lord Hervey, 
 under the name of Sporus, is cited by Lord Byron as 
 a specimen of his rich fancy (generally, but most erro- 
 neously, assumed to be the quality in which Pope was 
 chiefly deficient), and with this specimen of fancy Lord 
 Byron defied all his own contemporaries to compete. 
 That it does manifest injustice at least to the abilities 
 of Lord Hervey, will be acknowledged by all who have 
 read his very entertaining memoirs lately published ; 
 but moreover, able and brilliant as it is, it is too dis- 
 agreeable to repeat. Let me quote, then, his famous 
 character of Addison, who had given offence to him, 
 whether with good reason or not it is no part of my
 
 118 THE POETRV OF POPfi. 
 
 present purpose, nor would it be in my power, to de^ 
 cide. Pope thought that Addison had treated him 
 slightingly and superciliously, and I believe took spe- 
 cially amiss the kind of notice he had bestowed upon 
 the Rape of the Lock. He speaks of him under the 
 name of Atticus ; you will remark the consummate 
 skill with which he first does justice to his genius, and 
 then detracts from its lustre. It is also a great proof 
 of the cleverness of the satire, that, sincere as our re- 
 spect is both for the genius and character of Addison, 
 it is impossible to go through this piece of dissection 
 without believing that it must have touched upon some 
 points of real soreness. 
 
 il Peace to all such ! but were there one whos 
 True genius kindles, and fair fame inspires ; 
 Blest with each talent and each art to please, 
 And bora to write, converse, and live with ease: 
 Should such a man, too fond to rule alone, 
 Bear, like the Turk, no brother near the throne, 
 View him with scornful, yet with jealous eyes, 
 And hate for arts that caus'd himself to rise ; 
 Damn with faint praise, assent with civil leer, 
 And without sneering, teach the real to sneer ;
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 119 
 
 % 
 
 Willing to wound, and yet afraid to strike, 
 Just hint a fault, and hesitate dislike ; 
 Alike reserv'd tt> blame or to commend, 
 A timorous foe, and a suspicious friend ; 
 Dreading e'en fools, by flatterers besieg'd, 
 And so obliging, that he ne'er oblig'd ; 
 Like Cato, give his little Senate laws, 
 And sit attentive to his own applause ; 
 While wits and templars ev'ry sentence raise, 
 And wonder with a foolish face of praise 
 Who but must laugh, if such a man there be? 
 Who would not weep, if Atticus were he 1" 
 
 Then I will take the character of the able, versatile, 
 and unprincipled Duke of Wharton : 
 
 " Wharton, the scorn and wonder of our days, 
 Whose ruling passion was the lust of praise : 
 Bom with whate'er cculd win it from the wise, 
 Women and fools must like him, or he dies ; 
 Tho' wondering senates hung on all he spoke, 
 The club must hail him master of the joke. 
 
 [This couplet has been applied to the celebrated Mr. 
 Sheridan, and does not ill suit the author of the 
 speeches on Warren Hastings' trial, and the School 
 for Scandal,]
 
 120 THE POETRY Of POPE. 
 
 Thus with each gift of nature and of art, 
 
 And wanting nothing but an honest heart, 
 
 Grown all to all, from no one vice exempt ; 
 
 And moet contemptible, to shun contempt ; 
 
 His passion still, to covet general praise, 
 
 His life, to forfeit it a thousand ways; 
 
 A constant bounty which no friend has made ; 
 
 An angel tongue, which no man can persuade ; 
 
 A fool, with more of wit than hah" mankind, 
 
 Too rash for thought, for action too refined ; 
 
 A tyrant to the wife his heart approves, 
 
 A rebel to the very king he loves ; 
 
 He dies, sad outcast of each church and state, 
 
 And, harder still ! flagitious, yet not great. 
 
 Ask you why Wharton broke through every rule? 
 
 Twas all for fear the knaves should call him fool." 
 
 I have given the characters of two men ; fairness 
 demands that at least I should give you one of a wo- 
 man. I take that of Chloe, which, unlike the two last, 
 has not, that I am aware, been ascertained to belong 
 to any actual person, but most of us will feel that we 
 have known people, to whom some parts of it at least 
 might fit ; 
 
 " Yet Chloe sure -was formed without a spot- 
 Nature in her then err'd not, but forgot.
 
 TttE POETRY OP POPE. 121 
 
 ' With ev'ry pleasing, ev'ry prudent part, 
 ' Say what does Chloe want ?' She wants a heart. 
 She speaks, behaves, and acts just as she ought ; 
 But never, never reached one generous thought. 
 Virtue she finds too painful an endeavor, 
 Content to dwell in decencies for ever. 
 So very reasonable, so unmoved, 
 As never yet to love, or to be loved. 
 . She, while her lover pants upon her breast, 
 Can mark the figures on an Indian chest : 
 And when she sees her friend to deep despair, 
 Observes how much a chintz exceeds mohair. 
 Forbid it heaven, a favor or a debt 
 She e'er should cancel ! but she may forget. 
 Safe is your secret still in Chloe's ear ; 
 But none of Chloe's shall you ever hear. 
 Of all her Dears she never slandered one, 
 But cares not if a thousand are undone. 
 Would Chloe know if you're alive or dead ? 
 She bids her footman put it hi her head. 
 Chloe is prudent ! Would you too be wise, 
 Then never break your heart when Chloe dies." 
 
 Having thus attempted to do justice to Pope's 
 
 powers of satire, I must not omit to mention what I 
 
 consider to be another of his felicities almost of an 
 
 opposite character, though I have perceived with plea- 
 
 6
 
 122 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 sure since I noted this topic, that I have been antici- 
 pated in the same line of remark by the late Mr. 
 Hazlitt; I say with pleasure, because that ingenious 
 person was one of the guides and favorites of a school 
 the most opposed in theory and practice to that of 
 Pope ; I allude to the extreme tact, skill, and delicacy 
 with which he conveys a compliment, and frequently 
 embodies in one pregnant line or couplet a complete 
 panegyric of the character he wishes to distinguish. 
 Let me instance this by a few examples. Sometimes 
 the compliment appears merely to be thrown out al- 
 most as it were by chance to illustrate his meaning. 
 So of the Duke of Chandos, whom at another time 
 he is supposed to have intended to ridicule under the 
 character of Timon : 
 
 "Thus gracious Chandos is beloved at sight" 
 
 Then of Lord Cornbury : 
 
 " Would ye be blest ? despise low joys, low gains, 
 Disdain whatever Cornbury disdains." 
 
 Of General Oglethorpe, the founder of Georgia :
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 123 
 
 " One driv'n by strong benevolence of soul, 
 Shall fly, like Oglethorpe, from pole to pole." 
 
 These have reference to manly virtues ; sometimes 
 there is the same oblique reference to female claims : 
 
 " Hence Beauty, waking all her tints, supplies 
 An angel's sweetness, or Bridgewater's eyes." 
 
 At other times the eulogium is more direct. Take 
 that fine application to Lord Gobham of the effect of 
 man's ruling passion, developing itself in death, which 
 he has been pursuing through a number of instances, 
 the man of pleasure, the miser, the glutton, the cour- 
 tier, the coquette, all, for the most part, under circum- 
 stances derogatory to the pride of human nature, when 
 he thus sums them up : 
 
 " And you, brave Cobham, to the latest breath 
 Shall feel your ruling passion strong in death ; 
 Such, in these moments, as in all the past, 
 ' Oh, save my country, Heaven !' shall be your last." 
 
 How beautiful is the couplet to Dr. Arbuthnot, his 
 physician and friend :
 
 
 TTtE POETRY OP POPE. 
 
 " Friend of my life ! which did not you prolong, 
 The world had wanted many an idle song." 
 
 How ingenious that to the famous Philip Stanhope, 
 Earl of Chesterfield, on being desired to write some 
 lines in an album with his pencil : 
 
 " Accept a miracle instead of wit, 
 See two dull lines by Stanhope's pencil writ." 
 
 How happy is the allusion to Lord Peterborough, who 
 made a brilliant campaign in Spain within a wonder- 
 fully short time. He represents him as assisting to lay 
 out his grounds : 
 
 " And he whose lightning pierced th' Iberian lines 
 Now forms my quincunx, and now ranks my vines, 
 Or tames the genius of the stubborn plain, 
 Almost as quickly as he conquered Spain." 
 
 He always speaks of Murray, the great Lord Mansfield, 
 with pride and affection. It is true that one of the 
 worst lines he ever wrote is about him, the second in 
 this couplet : 
 
 " Graced as thou art with all the power of words, 
 So known, BO honored, at the House of Lords, "
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 125 
 
 An instance how much delicacy it requires to introduce 
 with effect familiar names and things ; sometimes it 
 tells with great force ; here it is disastrously prosaic ; 
 we almost forgive it, however, when he turns from the 
 Palace of Westminster to the Abbey opposite : 
 
 " Where Murray, long enough his country's pride, 
 Shall be no more than Tully, or than Hyde." 
 
 He again alludes to the aptitude for poetical composi- 
 tion which Murray had exhibited, and also to the talent 
 for epigram which he assumes that the great orator 
 Pulteney would have displayed if he had not been en- 
 grossed by politics. 
 
 " How sweet an Ovid, Murray, was our boast ; 
 How many Martials were in Pulteney lost." 
 
 These were for the most part his political friends, 
 but when he mentions Sir Robert Walpole, to whom 
 his friends, more than himself, were virulently opposed, 
 how respectful and tender is the reproach, how adroit 
 and insinuating the praise :
 
 126 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 " Been him I have, but in his happier hour, 
 Of social pleasure, ill exchanged for power, 
 Seen him, uncumbered with a venal tribe, 
 Smile without art, and win without a bribe." 
 
 I might adduce many other instances ; I might quote 
 at full length the noble epistle to Lord Oxford, but I 
 will sum up this topic with that striking passage in 
 which, while he enumerates the persons who encour- 
 aged and fostered his earlier productions, he presents 
 us with a gallery of illustrious portraits, sometimes 
 conveys by a single word an insight into their whole 
 character, and concludes the distinguished catalogue 
 with the name of that St. John whom he uniformly 
 regarded with feelings little short of idolatry, and 
 which, however misplaced and ill-grounded, have even 
 in themselves something of the poetical attribute : 
 
 " But why then publish ? Granville the polite, 
 And knowing Walsh would tell me I could write ; 
 Well-natured Garth, inflamed with early praise, 
 And Congreve loved, and Swift endured, my lays. 
 
 (Observe how the gentle and amiable Congreve
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 127 
 
 " loved," and the caustic and cynical Swift " en- 
 dured.") 
 
 The courtly Talbot, Somers, Sheffield, read, 
 E'en mitred Rochester would nod the head, 
 
 (said to have been the ordinary symptom of Bishop 
 Atterbury being pleased; then comes the swelling 
 climax,) 
 
 And St. John's self, great Dryuen's friend before, 
 With open arms received one Poet more. 
 Happy the studies, when by these approved, 
 Happier the author, when by these beloved." 
 
 I feel that I ought not entirely to omit all mention of 
 the long satiric poem of the Dunciad, upon which Pope 
 evidently bestowed much care and labor ; but it is 
 throughout disfigured by great ill-nature, and by a per- 
 vading run of unpleasant and unsavory images. There 
 is much spirit in the account of the young high-born 
 Dunce, who makes, what is called, the Grand Tour : 
 
 " Europe he saw, and Europe saw him too ;" 
 
 and tells how he
 
 128 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 "Judicious drank, and, greatly daring, dined." 
 
 There is a luscious kind of burlesque softness in 
 these lines, 
 
 " To happy convents, bosomed deep in vines, 
 Where slumber abbots, purple as their wines ; 
 To isles of fragrance, lily-silvered vales, 
 Diffusing languor in the panting gales ; 
 To lands of singing and of dancing slaves, 
 Love-whispering woods, and lute resounding waves." 
 
 One of the most distinguishing excellencies of Pope 
 is the vividness which he imparts to all the pictures he 
 presents to the mind, and which he attains by always 
 making use of the very most appropriate terms which 
 the matter admits. This, in conjunction with his won- 
 derful power of compression, which he has probably 
 carried further than any one before or since, gives a 
 terseness and completeness to all he says, in which he 
 is unrivalled. As instances of this perfect picture 
 painting, I would refer you, as I must not indefinitely 
 indulge in long citations, to the descriptions, all in the 
 same Epistle on Riches, of the Miser's House, the
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 129 
 
 Man of Ross's charities, and of the death of Villiers, 
 Duke of Buckingham*: 
 
 " In the worst inn's worst room, with mat half hung, 
 The floors of plaister, and the walls of dung, 
 On once a flock bed, but repaired with straw, 
 With tape-tied curtains, never meant to draw, 
 The George and Garter dangling from that bed 
 Where tawdry yellow strove with dirty red, 
 Great Villiers lies alas ! how changed from him, 
 That life of pleasure, and that soul of whim !" 
 
 If any should object that this is all very finished and 
 elaborate, but it is very minute only miniature paint- 
 ing after all, what do you say to this one couplet on 
 the operations of the Deity ? 
 
 " Builds life on death, on change duration found?, 
 And gives the eternal wheels to know their rounds." 
 
 I would beg any of the detractors of Pope to furnish 
 me with another couple of lines from any author what- 
 ever, which inclose so much sublimity of meaning 
 within such compressed limits, and such precise terms. 
 I must cite another passage, in which he ventures on 
 the same exalted theme, with somewhat more enlarge-
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 merit ; it would be impossible, however, for you to hear 
 it, and bring against it any charge of diffuseness : 
 
 " All are but parts of one stupendous whole, 
 Whose body nature is, and God the soul ; 
 That, changed through all, and yet in all the same, 
 Great in the earth, as in the ethereal frame ; 
 Warms in the sun, refreshes in the breeze, 
 Glows in the stars, and blossoms in the trees, 
 Lives through all life, extends through all extent, 
 Spreads undivided, operates unspent, 
 
 (There is a couplet indeed.) 
 
 Breathes in our soul, informs our mortal parl, 
 As full, as perfect, in a hair as heart ; 
 As full, as perfect, in vile man that mourns, 
 As the rapt seraph that adores and burns : 
 To Him no high, no low, no great, no small ; 
 He fills, he bounds, connects, and equals all." 
 
 Let me invite your attention to the few following 
 lines on the apportionment of separate instincts or 
 qualities to different animals, and be good enough to 
 observe how the single words clench the whole argu- 
 ment. They are as descriptive as the bars of Haydn's 
 music in the Oratorio of the Creation :
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 131 
 
 " What modes of sight betwixt each wide extreme, 
 The mole's dimturtain, and the lynx's beam ; 
 Of smell, the headlong lioness between, 
 And hound sagacious on the tainted green ; 
 Of hearing, from the life that fills the flood, 
 To that which warbles through the vernal wood ; 
 The spider's touch, how exquisitely fine, 
 Feels at each thread, and lives along the line." 
 
 What a couplet again is that ! It is only about a 
 spider ; but I guarantee its immortality. 
 
 If I set down the Terse, the Accurate, the Complete, 
 the pungency of the Satiric point, the felicity of the 
 well-turned Compliment, as the distinctive features of 
 Pope's poetical excellence, it should not escape us that 
 there are occasions when he reaches a high degree of 
 moral energy and ardor. I have purposely excluded 
 from our present consideration all scrutiny and dissec- 
 tion of Pope's real inner character. I am aware, that, 
 taking it in the most favorable light, it can only be re- 
 garded as formed of mixed and imperfect elements ; 
 but I cannot refuse to myself the belief that when the 
 Poet speaks in such strains as these, they in some de- 
 gree reflect and embody the spirit of the Man. I
 
 132 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 quote from his animated description of the triumph of 
 vice : 
 
 " Let Greatness own her, and she's mean no more ; 
 Her birth, her beauty, crowds and courts confess, 
 Chaste matrons praise her, and grave bishops bless ; 
 In golden chains the willing world she draws, 
 And hers the Gospel is, and hers the laws ; 
 Mounts the tribunal, lifts her scarlet head, 
 And sees pale virtue carted in her stead. 
 Lo ! at the wheels of her triumphal car, 
 Old England's genius, rough with many a scar, 
 Dragg'd in the dust ! his arms hang idly round , 
 His flag inverted trails along the ground !" 
 
 And, again, with more special reference to himself, 
 
 " Ask you what provocation I have had ? 
 The strong antipathy of good to bad. 
 When truth or virtue an affront endures, 
 Th' affront is mine, my friend, and should be yours. 
 
 Yes, 1 am proud, I must be proud to see, 
 
 
 Men not afraid of God, afraid of me : 
 
 Safe from the bar, the pulpit, and the throne, 
 Yet touch 'd and sham'd by ridicule alone. 
 O sacred weapon ! left for truth's defence, 
 Sole dread of folly, vice, and insolence !
 
 THE POETRY OF POPE. 133 
 
 To all but heav'n-directcd hands deny'd, 
 
 The muse may^ive thee, but the gods must guide : 
 
 Rev'rent I touch thee ! but with honest zeal ; 
 
 To rouse the watchmen of the public weal, 
 
 To virtue's work provoke the tardy Hall, 
 
 And goad the prelate slumbering in his stall. 
 
 Let envy howl, while heav'n's whole chorus sings, 
 
 And bark at honor not conferr'd by kings ; 
 
 Let flatt'ry sick'ning see the incense rise, 
 
 Sweet to the world, and grateful to the skies : 
 
 Truth guards the poet, sanctifies the line, 
 
 And makes immortal, verse as mean as mine." 
 
 My limits, more than my materials, warn me that I 
 must desist. As, however, with reference to the single 
 object which I have all along had in view, I think it 
 more politic that I should let the words of Pope, rather 
 than my own, leave the last echoes on your ear, I 
 should like to conclude this address with his own con- 
 cluding lines to perhaps the most important and highly 
 wrought of his poems, the " Essay on Man." They 
 appear to me calculated to leave an appropriate im- 
 pression of that orderly and graceful muse, whose at- 
 tractions I have, feebly I know and inadequately, but 
 with the honesty and warmth of a thorough sincerity,
 
 134 THE POETRY OF POPE. 
 
 endeavored to place before you ; if I mistake not, you 
 will trace in them, as in his works at large, the same 
 perfect propriety of expression, the same refined sim- 
 plicity of idea, the same chastened felicity of imagery, 
 all animated and warmed by that feeling of devotion 
 for Bolingbroke, which pervaded his poetry and his 
 life : 
 
 " Come then, my friend ! my genius ! come along ; 
 Oh master of the poet, and the song! 
 And while the muse now stoops, or now ascends, 
 To man's low passions, or their glorious ends, 
 Teach me, like thec, in various nature wise, 
 To fall with dignity, with temper rise ; 
 Form'd by thy converse, happily to steer 
 Prom grave to gay, from lively to severe ; 
 Correct with spirit, elegant with ease, 
 Intent to reason, or polite to please. 
 Oh ! while along the stream of time thy name 
 Expanded flies, and gathers all its fame ; 
 Bay, shall my little bark attendant'sail, 
 Pursue the triumph, and partake the gale ? 
 When statesmen, heroes, kings, in dust repose 
 Whose sons shall blush their fathers were thy foes, 
 Shall then this verse to future age pretend 
 Thou wert my guide, philosopher and friend,
 
 TilE POETRY OF POPE. 135 
 
 That urg'd by thce, I turn'd the tuneful art 
 From sounds to things, from fancy to the heart ; 
 For wit's false mirror held up nature's light ; 
 Show'd erring pride, whatever is, is right : 
 That reason, passion, answer one great aim ; 
 That true self-love and social are the same ; 
 That virtue only makes our bliss below ; 
 And all our knowledge is ourselves to know." 
 
 Gentlemen of the jury, that is my case.
 
 

 
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