ANNA JAMESON LETTERS & FRIENDSHIPS EDITED BY MRS. STEUART ERSKINE i|■^.:''';ili!■;:;;'^' >'■■:. ■■ ?1 Mm lite' .;,;;•■;.?:;.;;/>'; ■ fep :;:::-; . mm: UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AT LOS amge:les ANNA JAMESON : LETTERS AND FRIENDSHIPS I ANNA MUKI'HY. After a miniature by D. Brownell Murphy. ANNA JAMESON LETTERS AND FRIENDSHIPS (1812-1860) EDITED BY MRS. STEUART ERSKINE ILLUSTRATED LONDON T. FISHER UNWIN, LTD. ADELPHI TERRACE First published in 1915 {All rights reserved) CONTENTS INTRODUCTION CHAPTER I. EARLY YEARS >j II. ITALY . 1^ III. MARRIAGE AND AFTER M IV. GERMANY V. OTTILIE VON GOETHE VI. A NEW WORLD ^* VII. RAMBLES AMONG THE RED MEN ID ID < VIII. LONDON ONCE MORE . IX. A FAIR DANCER >■ lU X. HARRIET MARTINEAU . LJ C XI. BUSY YEARS lU 89 XII. IRELAND AND MARIA EDGEWORTH C 3 XIII. TRAVELS XIV. MILESTONES XV. ITALY AGAIN XVI. THE END PAGE 9 17 39 67 96 III 129 146 161 182 203 225 246 262 278 301 325 ILLUSTRATIONS ANNA MURPHY ..... Frontispiece After a miniature by D. Brownell Murphy FACING PAGE D. BROWNELL MURPHY . . . . 48 After a drawing by F. L. Chantrey, R.A. ROBERT JAMESON . . . . . 1^ After a miniature CUT PAPER DESIGN BY ADELE SCHOPENHAUER . . I02 Genius gathers flowers on earth and throws them heavenwards, where they become stars MRS. MURPHY ...... I46 After a miniature FACSIMILE OF LETTER FROM SAMUEL ROGERS . . 162 SIR EDWIN LANDSEER, R.A. ..... 186 After a sketch by Sir J. Hayter, R.A. FACSIMILE OF LETTER FROM ROBERT BROWNING . . 232 ANNA JAMESON ...... 242 After a bust by J. Gibson, R.A., now in the National Portrait Gallery " OTTILIE A LA COUR "..... 266 After an engraving THE COUNTESS OF LOVELACE, nee AUGUSTA ADA BYRON . 282 From a daguerreotype FACSIMILE OF LETTER FROM ELIZABETH BARRETT BROWNING ...... 322 ANNA JAMESON ...... 334 From a photograph by David Octavius Hill, R.S.A. 7 INTRODUCTION Anna Jameson, so celebrated in her time as a brilliant Avriter on art, has left behind her books that maintain their popularity to the present day. She was a prolific worker, producing travel sketches, essays and addresses on social questions, as well as those writings on artistic subjects on which her fame rests. While acknowledging the excellence of her books, which are unique in their own line, we must admit that she was badly equipped as a critic and cared little for the technique of art. In that, however, she was not singular. There was little writing on art in the England of her day and that little was not good ; modern criticism, as we know it, was yet to be born. Ruskin, who practically started the aesthetic movement in this country, was twenty- five years her junior and did not publish the first volume of " Modern Painters " until seventeen years after she had produced " The Diary of an Ennuyee." Anna Jameson began her career at an auspicious moment. There were few rivals in the field, and there was room for an author who knew how to 9 Introduction combine solid research with pleasant writing. Interest in art was now extending to all classes, public and private collections were being greatly augmented ; knowledge concerning the contents of galleries and the subjects of the pictures and the history of the artists themselves was eagerly sought. Her handbooks to public and private galleries sup- plied a want ; her essays and articles received immediate recognition. When she started on the great series of books that began with " Sacred and Legendary Art," that book which has been called " a pictorial history of the Church from the Cata- combs to the Seventeenth Century," and ended with the " History of our Lord," (concluded by Lady Eastlake after her death), she wrote again in an auspicious moment because the Tractarian move- ment had reawakened interest in Church history. Yet another small circumstance may have contri- buted to her early success and that was the com- parative scarcity of women writers at that date, especially women writers who cared to attack solid subjects ; she became at once a marked woman and was received with open arms at home and abroad. Her social success was made by her literary reputation and her popularity as a writer gained by her popularity as a woman. Mrs. Jameson was, to a great extent, self-taught. She belonged to no school of criticism, was bound by no rules save those dictated by her inner con- sciousness. In her early writings she confessed lo Introduction that she detested the works of Michael Angelo ; and, although she afterwards deplored her " imma- ture " judgment, it is probable that, to the end of her days, she preferred the sugary graces of Carlo Dolce to the titanic conceptions of the great Florentine. She loved all that was sweet and gracious in art, all that was glowing in colour, all that suggested sentiment ; having no pose to adopt and no opinions other than her own to consider, she expresses her enthusiasm without restraint. If we are to consider in what particular direction lies the value of the works that she has left as a legacy to posterity, we must admit that it is not to be found in any very original criticism that has come from her pen. In the course of her long life Mrs. Jameson amassed a large amount of accurate know- ledge concerning pictures ; she was exact, inde- fatigable in research, possessed of that " infinite capacity for taking pains " that has been held up to us as genius. While studying pictures she found herself also bound to study ecclesiastical history, legendary lore and symbolism, all of which sub- jects she made her own to a remarkable degree. It is probably these studies that have contributed largely to the value of her work ; whatever the cause, the fact remains that the books of Anna Jameson hold their own in the modern market and continue to be sold when many more pretentious essays in criticism have had their little day and been forgotten. II Introduction If she was fortunate in her literary career as far as opportunity and appreciation went— for she does not seem at any time to have made much money by her efforts— Anna Jameson was less happy in her private life, which was embittered and overshadowed by an unfortunate marriage. It is difficult to under- stand, at this distance of time, why she did not have this marriage annulled. Perhaps in the early years she hoped against hope for a change to come ; possibly as the years went on she found her position as a married woman, even one living apart from her husband, better suited to her nomad existence than would have been that of a single woman. Whatever her reasons, she continued to bear the name of Jameson, although it is evident from a letter written to her mother, of too private a nature to include among her correspondence, that her marriage was one in name only. Given her Celtic impetuosity and the warmth of her temperament, as well as the family affection and love of home that were among her most salient characteristics, it is easy to see through what deep waters of despair she must have passed before she gained her freedom and even for long years after she had parted from the man who was her legal husband. Disappointed in her marriage, the whole tide of her affections welled with renewed force round the members of her family and her intimate friends. Her father, typically Irish and typically an artist, always nursing vague hopes of success and usually 12 Introduction finding himself in embarrassed circumstances, died in 1842, leaving the mother and two unmarried sisters in her charge. Long before this she had been the prop of the family and had denied herself every little luxury in order to give her hardly earned money to her dear ones. Great as the strain was and constant the anxiety as to how to make ends meet, it is certain that she gave without grudging and that she was bound by ties of the sincerest devotion to the home that she was destined to leave so often. When parted from her family she was always watching the post for letters and filling her large sheets of paper with lines of small writing, crossed and re-crossed after the manner of her times, conscious that every little event in her life was of consequence to those she loved and hunger- ing for every scrap of home news : " I have only one thought, wish, fear, hope . . . Home, Home, Home,''^ she wrote from Toronto in 1837 ; and the same sentiment is found over and over again in all her letters. The life of Anna Jameson was full of movement. She came across many interesting people in London as well as in Paris, Rome, Vienna, and Weimar ; wherever she went she was well received, and appears to have had a great capacity for making friends. Of these the most intimate were Lady Byron and Ottilie von Goethe. The rupture of her intercourse with the former was one of her deep sorrows ; her affection for the latter, the wayward. Introduction impulsive, irritating and fascinating Ottilie, brought the warmth of a great human interest into the last twenty years of her life. With men she formed fewer friendships, though there are some, like Robert Noel and Henry Reeve, who seem to have been admitted to a certain degree of confidence. It is evident that she preferred her own sex and that a certain bitterness persisted, born of her own unhappy experience, fostered perhaps by her inti- macy with Lady Byron, whose " policy of silence " was certainly not maintained in her case. Many of her friends were women working in the fields of social improvement, pioneers in the cause of Woman's Rights, women with whom she became associated because of her printed utterances or her known opinions ; others were dravni to her through literary interests. A glance at her correspondence shows that she was in touch with most of the promi- nent men and women of the day, although many of the letters are not worth reproducing. Amongst her friends she numbered the BroMmings, Procters, Grotes, Joanna Baillie, Harriet Martineau, Sarah Austin, Harriet St. Leger, Maria Edgeworth, Mary Mitford, Elizabeth Gaskell, " L. E. L.", and Geraldine Jewsbury, to mention only a few of the better known ; she was a welcome guest at Rogers' breakfast-table and received more invita- tions than she could possibly accept. In the brilliant Hterary society of Weimar she immediately found a place and was welcomed no less eagerly in the 14 Introduction salon of Madame Mohl in Paris, or in the literary and artistic circles in Rome. Anna Jameson was a worker all her life, whether she was occupied with literary research or with those movements for social reform with which her name became associated. She died, as she had lived, in harness, her last public appearance being on the platform of a Social Science meeting at Bradford and her last illness beginning with a chill contracted whilst working up material in the British Museum for the " History of our Lord." BEATRICE ERSKINE. NOTE When Mr. Fisher Unwin placed the Corre- spondence of Anna Jameson in my hands with a view to publication the nations of Europe were at peace with one another. I received, at that time, much useful help from Dr. Mutchmann, then Pro- fessor of German at Nottingham, and, through him, permission from the Keepers of the Goethe and Schiller Archives at Weimar to use certain letters and documents preserved there. After the out- break of war the publication of the letters was necessarily postponed, and now that they are about to be issued a word seems called for with regard to those dealing with the writers' experiences in Germany. They have been left in, not because we have forgotten or forgiven the atrocities com- 15 Introduction mitted during the war, but because they represent the intellectual life in the small States of Germany before Prussia, the " robber State of Europe," swept over its length and breadth with a wave of brutality and militarism that has set the world aflame . i6 ANNA JAMESON CHAPTER I EARLY YEARS Anna Brownell Murphy, the eldest daughter of Denis Brownell Murphy, a miniature painter of some talent, was born in Dublin in the year 1794 ; in 1798 her parents migrated to a small seaport in Cumberland, where they remained for some years, afterwards settling at Newcastle-on-Tyne. In 1803 they went south and lived for some years at Hanwell, finally coming to London about the year 1806. Mr. Murphy must have prospered in his pro- fession to be able to take rooms in Pall Mall for himself, his wife, his five little daughters ' and their governess, but he does not seem to have had any settled income or to have been ever free from anxiety as to his future. As a child Anna was precocious, imaginative, clever and extremely nervous. She would lie ^ Anna, Eliza, Louisa, Camilla and Charlotte. 17 B Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships awake for hours at night, a prey to unimaginable terrors ; in the daytime her vivid fancy occupied itself in attempting to write verse and in compos- ing fairy stories for the benefit of the family. She was so powerfully affected by certain harmonies that she would have to leave the room on hearing them; certain discords made her feel quite ill. With all this sensitiveness she was extremely clear- headed when her thoughts were turned to practical things and she became, at an early age, the right hand of her parents and the acknowledged head of the band of sisters. The governess into whose hands the education of the children was entrusted was a Miss Yokeley, who afterwards married Mr. Murphy's brother ; she was a strict, unsympathetic woman, who did not know how to gain the affection of her pupils, although she evidently understood her work as a teacher. Anna acknowledged, in after-days, that she owed much to this lady, who was " one of the cleverest women " she had ever met in her life ; but during her youth she was more occupied with her failings than with her good qualities. She re- joiced in the fact that the governess knew nothing of her inner nature, that she had no key to the realm of imagination in which, as a child, she loved to roam. The friction on one occasion became so acute that the little band of sisters, headed by Anna, ran away from the governess, intending to join their parents then on a visit in Scotland ; they were Early Years" brought f>ack without any more serious loss tliafJ that of one of the baby's red shoes and Mr. Murphy celebrated the event with his pencil. The bond that united Anna to her father was a very close one, for it was born of a community of tastes as well as of natural affection ; she learnt much from him and appears to have consulted him in all her small difficulties of composition. The earliest of her letters to her father is without date ; it must be confessed that it is a somewhat priggish effusion, but the earnest endeavour to find the right word already marks her as a writer born. Some verses " To the Violet " were written on the back of the letter. Anna Murphy to D. Brownell Murphy. My dear Papa,— Mama has given me leave to write upon the half of her letter and I take the opportunity of Sending you a httle Effusion which has been ready written since the last Parcel went off I I am not quite satisfied with it myself. I hope you will resolve me a few questions in the first verse and third line, whether I should say " thy form I spied " or " thy bloom I spied " ; in the same verse I use the pronoun you and directly after thou and thy which though Pope and even Milton have been guilty of I am sensible is a great inelegancy ; how shall I correct it? I also use the word flower a great deal to often. I beg leave to dedicate to you my last thing which you said you liked. I went the 19 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships other morning to Mrs. Wyatts at about one o'clock and found her gambling at that hour ; there were cards mony and Counters on the Table. She has lost my good opinion of her tho' I suppose that is nothing to her nor me niether ; indeed I have been too hasty in lines addressed to her. We were all much concerned to hear of your illness. I am going on very quick with my Italian and am writing Exercises from french into Italian, what makes me apply myself to it is the hope of going down to you. Little Charlotte is as usual and bids me tell you she wants lady Wafer and says you're to " mind that." On account of your late illness we can hardly expect our Debts paid in the next parcel but shall be put off a little while longer. Fare well my dear Papa, if you like to write to me pray tell me a great deal about Miss Thomas who was so good as wish me to come down. Your ever affectionate daughter, Anna Murphy. In another early letter the child encloses a little poem called " The Bat," asking for criticism, and on the back of a paper on which a note is written and signed by Georgina, Duchess of Devonshire, she wrote, in a large childish hand and with certain peculiarities of spelling, some lines on Collingwood. The poem was apparently written in a glow of patriotic enthusiasm some time after the battle of Trafalgar (October 21, 1805); as is well-known, Collingwood never returned to " veiw " his native land, but died at sea in 18 10. Anna was probably about eleven years old when it was written. 20 Early Years COLLINGWOOD. " [' With Fame and Victory following in his train, COLLINGWOOD veiws his native land again ! To songs of praise each joyous harp is strung, And happiness resounds from every tongue. E'en I, unskilled in poesy's magic art, Will sing brave Collingwood's exalted part ; For the first time to him will tune my lyre, While Nelson shall my humble verse inspire. Now raised alike in glory and in name — Britain shall boast another son of Fame, Who, bom each honour from Napoleon's head To snatch, and deck the gallant Nelson dead, As yet another champion bold shall rise And as a hero, claim the exalted skies : While Victory loud proclaims, though Nelson's slain Still Britain reigns o'er Neptune's boisterous main. Though first in honour and though first in place. Though first in favour and though first in grace. Though Fame shall weave fresh laurels for his head. Yet still he mourns victorious Nelson dead. But rise ! nor yield to unavailing greif ; Though yet we mourn the dear departed cheif ; 'Tis you must snatch from a usurper's hand Those rights which Freedom gave to every land. Our second hero every danger braves, And conquering Britain dares the bellowing waves. Blesses the place where Collingwood drew breath, But mourns the hour when Nelson sunk in death. As Anna grew older her character developed ; always energetic, vivacious and self-reliant, she not 21 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships only dominated the flock of small sisters, but began to be seriously worried at the financial difficulties which beset the family. At the age of twelve she evolved a plan for adopting lace-making as a pro- fession and arranged that she and the obedient sisters were to go to Brussels to learn the art. She thought it all out quite seriously. The children were to follow the Paddington canal as far as it went and then to ask the way to the coast, where they were to embark in a steamer bound for Belgium. The rest was quite simple. As this plan did not meet with the approval it deserved, she threw herself with ardour into her studies, devoting herself especially to foreign languages, which always had an attraction for her. At the age of sixteen she took on her shoulders the burden of life in earnest and went out as a resident governess. For some time all went well with the struggling artist and his family ; Mr. Murphy, who had been appointed miniature painter to the Princess Char- lotte, was busily engaged in copying Lely's portraits of the ladies of the Court of Charles II in miniature, with a view to her purchasing them. With characteristic carelessness he set about this huge work without any definite understanding, and he writes about it with equally charac- teristic cheerfulness. The date on the post- mark is 1 8 1 2, so Anna was then eighteen years of age. 22 Early Years D. Brownell Murphy to Anna Murphy. My dear and very dear Anna,— We are happy on your account and this is the only motive we have at present for being so. I went to Windsor two or three days ago and saw Miss Egerton who was eager to know how you and Lady W.' went on together. I told her all I knew of the matter which has pleased her much. She says Lady W. has a treasure in you and that she is sensible of it — this will make you proud of yourself, but carry or bear " your faculties meekly." You will do very well thank God — and your mother and I are quite satisfied at your conduct every way and delighted at the appearance of your future prosperity. I had the honor of an interview with the Queen, there were also the four princesses, all very gracious, none else except the page who introduced me ; it was to shew my beauties which were greatly admired. Her Majesty acted her part with great pro- priety and the Princesses were very good natured — that's all ; but really I met with a most kind reception from my own Princess Charlotte, she is quite delighted with the masquinade box (a new one greatly superior to the one you saw), I told her of General Turner's coolness to the poor beauties, she bad me keep up my spirits and that when she was able (and that time may not be far distant) she would take them herself. For reasons that are not given in the letters, Anna soon found herself obliged to leave her situa- tion in order to take a little rest ; it is evident that her nerves were rather unstrung. She writes to ' The Marchioness of Winchester. Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships her mother : " My mind is not well ; I feel as if it were stretched beyond its strength, as if a little repose would save me, my head at least." She did not remain long inactive. On June 28, I 8 1 9, we find her writing to her sister Eliza from Bradbourne Park, where she is engaged as gover- ness in the family of Mr. and Mrs. Rowles. After saying, as usual, that she is pining for letters : " I live upon home letters, remember. ... I can- not be happy even with Mrs. Rowles without them . . ." she continues : " I go on very pleas- antly here, Mrs. Rowles is extremely kind and even affectionate ; we are almost inseparable com- panions and begin to know each other better." On the 5th July, 18 19, she wrote to her mother and sisters :— . . . We are reading the " Tales of my Land- lord " and like them extremely, but as yet I have met with no very striking passages — though Caleb Balder- stone may stand on a par with Cuddie, Douce Davie, as a humorously and strongly drawn low character ; we have not yet finished the second volume. Mrs. Rowles is very fond of being read to and as I am no bad reader this is one of the things in which I can please her. We have read " Mazeppa " which we neither of us hke much. , . . Laura ' is much better, but I am afraid the scars will be a little visible above her dress. As it is useful to know what to do in ' Laura Rowles had been severely burni;. 24 Early Years case of an accident which might happen at any moment I shall inform you that the way to treat a burn or scald is to pour cold water upon it incessantly, till a poultice is prepared made of Oatmeal and the coldest spring water, which must be changed at first every fev/ minutes ; by using this application for nearly a week Laura's hurts, which were frightful, are now nearly healed . The weather is abominably fine and hot and confines us to the house the whole day, by the help of iced water, iced cream, iced fruit iced butter and so forth we contrive to exist. In the evening Laura and Henry ride out and Mrs. Rowles and I drive in the Barouche or wander about the garden and grounds which are wild and beautiful. It is clear that I am becoming rather a favourite and I will try and keep up my credit you may be assured. Adieu good people. A. B. M. It is evident that Anna M^as treated with great kindness by the Rowles, and life was going on smoothly enough when, in the winter of 1820-21, a disturbing element was introduced in the person of a young barrister. Good-looking and agreeable, Robert Jameson, who was a native of Westmor- land and a friend and admirer of Wordsworth, soon made his mark. Anna was at once attracted and repelled by his curiously elusive personality. She appears to have been genuinely in love with him and yet to have realized that their natures were so diflferent that they had little chance of happiness together. An engagement resulted, but 25 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships Anna very soon broke it off, while declaring her- self to be inconsolable. Unluckily, she had not the strength of mind to cut off all connection with her admirer, who was evidently more persistent as she grew more cold. She declined to marry him, but they kept up an intermittent correspondence during the following year, when she accompanied the Rowles in their travels on the Continent. Anna left her native country with an apparently broken heart and a voluminous diary in which to record her troubles and her travels . She even gave vent to her feelings in some verses which begin ;— It is o'er, with its pains and its pleasures, The dream of affection is o'er. For all this, she was not too much occupied with her own affairs to undertake to arrange for a younger sister ' to spend a year in Paris, and to offer to contribute to her expenses out of her own salary, a promise which she fulfilled faithfully, even when she had not enough money left to pay her washing bills. Travelling in the year 1 8 2 i was still a matter of some difficulty and could only be indulged in by those who were well off ; it had, moreover, a delightful spice of uncertainty and adventure to add to the pleasures of its votaries. The Rowles travelled in their own carriage, attended by their own servants and surrounded by all the luxuries, but they were ' Louisa Murphy. 26 Early Years reduced, on more than one occasion, to cooking their own dinner in a wayside inn. Anna was, of course, in a dependent position, which did not admit her to the society that she enjoyed so much in her emancipated days ; she was, moreover, obliged to count every penny she spent. Added to these diffi- cuhies, she was unhappy and undecided about her love affair with Jameson. With all these draw- backs she -evidently managed to get a good deal of amusement out of her new experiences, Anna Murphy to Eliza Murphy. Paris, Sunday, July ist. My dearest Eliza,— I received your nice kind letter the day after I arrived here. I have another opportunity of sending a letter free and therefore write to say so. I am still amused with Paris and am not yet tired of it though I have been three days here. I can now find my way through the principal streets myself. We have not yet visited any of the principal sights ; our time has been occupied in making ourselves comfortable and presentable . I have been obliged to get a Leghorn hairnet ; they are very much worn here and very ex- pensive ; just the contrary to what I was told in London. My gingham pelisse I wear with a broad black sash and buckle "a la mode de Paris." The outside of the Tuilleries with its great conical roofs and superfluous chimnies does not delight me. The fagade of the Louvre and the Place de Carousel are very V Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships fine, but I have had as yet but a cursory glance at them. Our Boulevard is extremely gay, and the people all look so idle and yet so animated and the scene in the evening is so singular, that I know not how to describe it. Imagine an immense street, bordered on each side with a double row of trees and beyond by beautiful hotels and buildings ; between the trees and houses stalls are disposed in which books, prints, pictures, china, cakes, all sort of things in short, are laid out for sale. Before the cafes quantities of chairs are placed and you see crowds of well dressed people and others lounging, walking, sitting, chattering faster than you ever heard any one chatter in England. You meet with a cafd every fifty yards, but one of the most celebrated is Tortonis where we go to eat our ices. Mr. R. has not settled any of his future plans and we all like Paris so much that he may possibly stay here longer than he at first intended. . . . Yesterday we went to the Marche aux Fleurs, one of the prettiest places I have yet seen — it is on the banks of the river — between two rows of trees. The flower stalls are dis- posed on each side and the most beautiful plants, jasmins, oleanders, orange trees etc., may be had at a very low price. Mrs. Rowles has her salon arranged with all her usual comforts and luxuries around her —abundance of flowers of course. We have just been out to see the procession of the Fete de Dicu in which the Host is carried through the streets. ... I re- member that last Sunday, as we stopped at Blangy— between Abbeville and Neufchatcl, there was a Fete de Dieu and I met a most beautiful child dressed up fantastically with beads, flowers etc., and a long muslin veil hanging from the top of her head and floating Early Years down her shoulders. Rather surprised at her appear- ance I asked her name ; she replied blushing, "Madame, je suis la sainte Vierge." Anna Murphy to Mrs. Murphy. Paris, Saturday and Sunday. My dearest Mamma,— You are I suppose by this time in London and I shall direct this to Weymouth Street. I hope you like the arrangement I have made for dear Louisa. She will have this advantage above all the rest, without which I should not have felt able to have left her in Paris, the MacGowans will be within a short distance and she has them to have recourse to in any difficulty. I wish very much that it had been in my power to spend a week gaily with her before I left Paris ; I mean, to have taken her to the theatres and some interesting sights, but this cannot be. I have restricted myself to the most rigid economy, not only in great things but little things. I find that the difficulty is to take care of one's small change. Here there are no bank notes and but very little gold, all the money is in small silver and one is tempted every moment by some cheap article of beauty or convenience which is thought a great deal of in England ; then, having one's small money ever ready, it is apt to melt away in francs and ten francs. I have now resolved, and keep to my resolution, to spend no money whatever. I find that to pay my washerwoman is as much as I can do_, for washing is the diable. Every gown if done nicely costs from three to six francs (half a crown to five shillings). 29 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships You will be surprised to hear me say that I greatly, dislike Paris, or rather that I do not like it. I wish we were travelling again. I know not a single person ; I have no society to unbend my mind. Mrs. R. goes out a great deal and my evenings are spent quite alone. I cannot procure myself amusement but at a rate too extravagant and I am tired of looking at the people and the fine things ; yet Paris is in itself a delightful place and the first three days were spent in rapture. I can hardly give you an idea of the splendour of the shops ; their signs too are so ridiculous that I have often been amused during a long drive by looking at them and nothing else. Every shop has a sign and as the Parisians pique themselves on their sentiment (a very expressive word in French) they are sentimental even in their signs. A stationer lives at the Billet Doux I a hosier at Pygmalion and Galatea, a shoemaker at Paul and Virginia, a linen draper at the Grave of God, a china shop Au pauvre Diable, a lingerie at the Little Virtue, a silk mercer at the Well- Beloved — le bien aimd. The Providence of God and the Holy Ghost are common signs, and a coffee house near us is at the sign of the Prophet Elisha. Are they not strange people? ... I think on the whole that Pere la Chaise struck me more than anything I have yet seen, even more than the magnificent Louvre. The gallery of the Louvre is i,8oo feet in length without any break to intercept the view. I can give you no idea of the coup d'oeil, you can scarcely see the end of it The walls are covered with pictures, some of them exceedingly fine, there are specimens of all the most celebrated painters; in short though I have been three times at the Louvre, I have never reached the end of it 30 Early Years yet, though I have spent from one to two hours and a half there whenever I went. The theatre is the only amusement I care much about, and that is quite out of my power. Mrs. R. detests going because the houses are not ventilated; I cannot go alone, and the MacGowans are not in town. We have been twice, both times to minor theatres, of which there are a great number, and all good in their way. At the Gymnase Drarnatique there is a child of 12 years old who is a little Mrs. Jordan; we have not on the English stage a coming artiste who would not appear awkward, forced, and inanimate when compared to her. Those who have not seen a French comedy have no idea of acting in its perfection. . . . We have removed from our magnifi- cent hotel on the Boulevards to the Rue St. Honore. We none of us like the change ; we are not comfortably, lodged, and instead of my suite of three rooms to myself I have not even a schoolroom. But these are trifling inconveniences. Last Sunday we were at St. Cloud where the King resides for the present. The park and gardens are romantic and beautiful. The common people were walk- ing about at their ease, and in different parts of the park were round-abouts and platforms for dancing. The water-works play every Sunday for the amusement of the public, and they are really beautiful. To-day Mrs. Rowles dines out ; she has left me the carriage and I shall take all the children to St. Cloud immediately after an early dinner. We shall spend the rest of the day there, sup in the gardens upon coffee, cream and fruit (a la francaise) and return at bedtime. I shall make the little elfs as happy as I can. How you would enjoy such a day ! All of you ! St. Cloud is about 31 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships six miles from Paris; the palace is beautiful, but modest. Louisa Murphy arrived in Paris before her sister left and was duly installed in the Pension that had been found for her, where she was to spend a year studying French and fitting herself for a position as governess. Anna Murphy to FJiza Murphy. Paris, August 8, 182 1, My dearest Eliza,— I suppose Louisa has given you an account of our excursion to Fontainebleau, since then I have spent a day at Versailles; the palace there did not disappoint me because I had not raised my expectations very high. The gardens are quite in old formal style. Groves cut and trimmed fantastically, straight walks, and fountains which looked very pretty and very absurd ; the French taste for waterworks seems ridiculous. . . . Louisa mentions that Mr. Jameson has some intention of going to Switzerland. I wish you would find out when and how he goes, and what part of Switzerland he is going to visit. ... If a small parcel has been left for me pray take extreme care of it as I value it particularly, and send it by Mr. Jameson if he comes or l)y the first opportunity. Louisa's letter is gone I find, and therefore I shall send this by the bag. Adieu, dearest. 32 Early Years Anna Murphy to Louisa Murphy. Geneva, September 23, 182 1. My dearest Father, Mamma, and dear GIRLS all,— I shall send this thro' Louisa that she may either forward the letter itself or the substance of it by Mr. Creeds' bag. She can always send a double letter, and postage is the diable. Now where shall I begin, and how shall I attempt to describe all I have seen? When I awoke this morning and heard the swishing of the blue Rhone past my window, it seemed like a dream and I closed my eyes again ; but it is real, those are the Alps, those are clouds sailing over their summits, there rises Mont Blanc, that is the Rhone rushing from the bosom of the lake. I am lost, I am confused in the multiplicity of new images and new ideas which crowd upon me and overcome by new sensations, which I cannot express. I must try to write you a connected but a short account of our journey. I keep a journal where I am more minute than I can be in a letter and that shall be read when I return to you. Begin by spreading a map of France before you and follow me if you can from Paris (where I gave poor dear Louisa the slip and set off at eight o'clock). We got to Melun, where we dined and slept ; we were stopped by an accident or should have gone further. From Melun to Villeneuve le Roi along the beautiful banks of the Yonne, a delightful day's journey of about 60 miles. Next day to Avallon, through a barren hilly country, thence through a most beautiful romantic country to Dijon where we spent a 33 c Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships day. Dijon disappointed me. The Muscle, once cele- brated, is in a ruinous neglected state, and contains nothing but Rubbish, with the single exception of an exquisite Holy Father by Carlo Dolce. I saw nothing at Dijon which much amused me ; we left it on Thursday morning and reached Poligny that night, a long and not very pleasant day's journey. Poligny is a small town at the foot of the Juras. We slept here at a detestable inn and the next morning we began to ascend the Jura Mountains. I say nothing of the scenery ; all description must fall short of reality. We pursued a road which wound along the sides of the mountains, on one side deep ravines and tremendous precipices clothed with forests of pines ; on the other rocks and cliffs almost perpendicular. Every little valley we peeped into was well cultivated and scattered over with hamlets and cottages which looked very much like baby houses of cards when compared with the gigantic features of the scenery. We travelled this day over 40 miles in ten hours, hard work too, at length descending a tremendous declivity which made Louisa' shut her eyes, we arrived at Moray, a most beautiful little town, quite enclosed in stupendous mountains and traversed by a rapid torrent, as clear as crystal. We slept here at an excellent little inn where they gave delicious honey and strawberries for supper and break- fast. We left Morey at eight yesterday morning and continued to ascend the mountains till near three o'clock. I walked nearly six miles this morning, up hill and scrambled over cliffs. We were almost tired of screaming out to each other to admire, when lo ! having reached the highest point of the Jura, or rather ' Louisa Rowles. 34 Early Years of the road over the Jura, turning round a cliff we came suddenly upon a scene which I cannot find words to describe. It overwhelms me even in recollection. An immense valley was spread out below ; we looked down upon the Lake of Geneva, which though nearly 30 miles off seemed at our feet. The back -ground was the magnificent Alps, glittering in the sun, while we stood in the shade ; light fleecy curling clouds, white as snow, rested upon the sides of the dark moun- tains ; between us and distant mountains of Savoy, towering over all, rose Mont Blanc. When I have told you such were the objects we saw I have said all I can say. The Panorama of Lausanne if you remember it will give you a better idea of the effect than :any words. \Ve had great difficulty in procuring even a night's lodging and were very wretchedly off. This morning we have removed to a very tolerable hotel, where we have good accomodations. Unfortunately it has poured rain ever since, but as we have had heavenly weather ever since we left Paris we have no reason to complain. The continual excitement of the last few days has left us all a little ennuye and fatigued, more in spirits than in body. The children are greatly provoked by the wet weather, for an open caleche and a laquais de place wait our orders to take us somewhere or every- where and I see no prospect of a gleam of sunshine to-day. I pray most earnestly for a fine day to- morrow. I go in the close carriage with the children early in the morning while the air is chill ; about eleven there is a general turn out and the servants turn in. I go either in the barouche with Mrs. R. or on the box with Mr. R. Louisa and I take this seat by turns. The scenes which occur sometimes at the 35 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships little inns where we munch are the most amusing you can imagine. We seize upon the people's eatables, take possession of their frying pans, lift up their pot- lids, open their cupboards, while the astonished natives siare with open mouths. At St. Laurent I remember we came to a wretched auberge where we found an empty kitchen without a fire and were told that there was nothing to eat. In half an hour we had cooked and eaten an excellent dinner of fresh eggs, ham, fried trout, and sweetmeats. Mr. Rowles is an excellent Chef de Voyage and pays well for all the fuss he makes. I hope I shall hear from some of you while I am here. I am quite well and in good spirits. Ever your most affec'^, Anna. Anna Murphy to Eliza Murphy. Geneva, September 27, 1821. . . . These Alps make me ill, almost they suffo- cate me. All the descriptions I ever heard or jead give me but a faint idea of the magnificent reality. We cannot visit Lausanne this time as we could not spare three days out of six which we spend here — I am much disappointed but it will only be deferred. We rode on the lake one lovely day — it is as clear as Crystal, and as blue as heaven ; the pebbles are distinctly seen at the bottom where the water is at least sixteen to twenty feet in depth — the reflection of Mont Blanc (60 miles off) is seen in the lake. Yesterday we drove to Coppet ; it was a delightful 36 Early Years day. The Chateau is in itself beautiful and you may imagine with what reverence I visited every room ; there is a most beautiful statue of Necker in the library and many other things worth seeing — a picture of Madame de Stael, when young, exhibited a figure and countenance the most striking and expressive I ever beheld. I talked a good deal to the woman who showed us about ; she had lived 1 5 years with Madame de Stael and was very intelligent. It is well- known that Madame de Stael was married a second time, a few years before she died, to M. Rocca, but it is not generally known that a son exists by this marriage, now a fine boy about ten years old. She is accused of neglecting this child and I fear with truth. On our return from Coppet — it was a most glorious sunset, such a sky as you never saw in England — the summits of Mont Blanc and his compeers were lighted up with crimson and a soft rose-coloured vapour floated over the hills and lake ; but description is nonsense ; you never saw anything so lovely, so magnificent. To-day we go to Ferney ; Saturday morning we set off for Italy. .Wie expect to reach Milan in five or six days, travelling leisurely ; we ascend the Simplon one day and descend it the next. I would wish all my letters to be directed to " Soin de Mr. Rowles, Poste Restante, Florence, Italie." I am quite well — the children better since the measles ; they are excellent travellers. I am afraid I am the worst traveller of the party and suffer most from fatigue though I will not allow it. I am quite knocked up every evening but it affects neither my health nor spirits. Geneva is not in itself a pretty 37 Anna fameson : Letters and Friendships town ; the houses have all projectmg roofs supported by beams of wood and forming a sort of portice. Between the houses and middle of the streets run rows of covered stalls or shops which give the streets a narrow crowded appearance. The river Rhone rushes out of the lake with a rapidity which makes me giddy to look at it ; the current of the river through the lake is not visible, but perceptible when you are in a boat. The boatman who rowed us was with Lord Byron in that stomi which he describes in the 3rd canto of Childe Harold between Mcillerie and St. Gingolph ; he was nearly lost. Lord Byron is well known here, and has excited great interest. I keep an exact journal every day which I hope will afford you all some amusement. Mrs. Rowles is very kind to me — Mr. Rowles very tiresome — a complete wet blanket. Adieu my dear Mamma and Papa. I shall write from Florence where I hope to find a letter from you. God bless you all. I left with Louisa a draught on Rothschild for her next quarter. Adieu once more. Heaven prosper you all. Ever your affectionate Anna. 38 CHAPTER II ITALY Anna Murphy to Mrs. Murphy. Milan, Saturday, October 6, 182 1. . . . .We quitted Geneva on the 29th and travelled along the south banks of the lake — the dear lake (for I have fallen in love with it and shall never, I think, behold anything to equal it), to St. Gingolph near which place the Rhone falls into the lake. The scenery I cannot attempt to describe — and when I have told you that we had the lake with deep blue transparent waters at out feet — and Lausanne, Vevey, Clarens and the castle of Chillon before us — and mountains of every variety of hue and form around us, you may form some idea, not of the scene itself, but of the pleasure it imparted. We pursued our course along a narrow valley along the banks of the Rhone to St. Maurice where we slept. The next day we still pursued our course through a narrow mountain valley enclosed by tremendous mountains capped with snow, which had fallen a few days before ; the scenery wild beyond description. We slept this night at the Tourtemagne — the next day we arrived at Brieg at the 39 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships foot of the Simplon, with eight horses. I walked four or five miles this day (as the slow motion of the carriage fatigued me) until excess of fatigue rendered repose grateful. When we reached the "highest point of the road, tlie snow lay on the ground and the icicles hung on the rocks around us ; the cold was bitter and the wind roared through the chasms of the mountains with a violence that terrified my Laura who was in the caleche with me. We had been delayed behind the others by an accident which happened to our dray chain. At last we reached the village of the Simplon, where we slept ; the next morning we descended the mountain to Domo d'Ossola. I know not what to say of the Simplon ; it has astonished me more than anything I ever saw or could have imagined. The descent on the Italian side is marvellous and such wild terrific scenery, such perpendicular rocks, fathom- less abysses, torrents, cataracts, bridges and galleries cut through the solid rock — but description is nonsense, it is impossible for words to give a just idea of what I have seen, ... At Domo d'Ossola we spent half a day. We ascended a beautiful romantic hill covered with groves and vine -yards and sat down under the treillage to eat grapes and figs which we gathered ourselves. This was the first place where Italian was spoken and which looked like Italy ; we had left winter in the Simplon and by the time we reached Domo d'Ossola we were panting with the heat. The next day we reached the banks of the Lago Maggiore where we sent on the carriage and servants to Arona and embarked in a boat to visit the Borromean Isles ; to describe these would be an endless task. We continued our journey in the boat to Arona where 40 Italy we slept. From the boat we had a view of the famous colossal statue of St. Charles Borromeo, which is seventy -two feet in height, besides the pedestal which is thirty-six. At Arona I first saw the beautiful Milanese costume which is universal here ; a white or black veil fastened on the top of the head and the two ends brought down before ; it is the most elegant picturesque dress I have yet seen. They all carry a fan in their hand and a little work-bag on the arm. The peasantry wear silver pins in their hair like the little drawing I made for you, but their hair never looked nice. Last night we went to the Theatre of the Marionettes where we saw a tragedy, a divertissement, a Ballet d'action and a farce all acted by puppets, the whole most ridiculous and the effects really wonderful — such dancing is only to be seen at the Opera and we all laughed till we were tired — for once it is worth seeing. To-night we go to the Opera, or at least Mrs. Rowles goes and I have some hopes of going too. Florence, November i, 1821. My dearest Mother, — ... I must now give some account of myself — and first assure you my dearest Mamma that I am much better than I have been for some time past and am beginning to grow fat and " well-favoured." I shall live to return to England in spite of prognostics and astonish you all with the wonders I have seen. My letter to my Aunt brought me down to the 23rd of Oct. at Venice ; we left Venice the 26th — we were there too short a time, it interested me more than any 41 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships place I have yet seen. I shed tears on losing eight of it, though I left nothing behind to regret but itself, so deep was the impression it made on me. In a few years Venice will be no longer Venice, so rapid is its decay. Mr. Hoppner is Consul there and as he is very intimate with Mrs. R. we saw a great deal of him ; his wife is a pleasing woman, a Swiss full of animation and good humour. From Venice we went to Padua again, a dull, disagreeable place. At Ferrara we visited the cell in which Tasso was confined under pretence of his being mad ; 7 years confinement in such a place was enough to make him so. At Bologna we spent one day and saw nothing worth seeing, except the opera there ; after leaving Bologna we began to ascend the Appennines which extend almost to Florence. The scenery amongst the Appennines is not so wild and striking as the Alps, but very beautiful ; such lovely sunny vallies ; such skies ! — all that I ever heard or read of Italian skies fall short of the reality. I know not how to describe in the compass of a letter all the beauties I have seen ; no one has seen the moon and stars who has not beheld them from the mountains — they seem to shine between us and heaven and it will give you some idea of the climate wJien I tell you that to-day I really suffered from the heat and felt the shade a grateful relief — in November ! What are you doing in foggy old England? I must confess that the mornings and evenings are chill but so clear, so brilliant; this country is a paradise— in ruins. I have been impressed at every step with a mingled feeling of delight and melancholy and though I have been disappointed in many of my projects of pleasure 42 Italy and improvement, that is not the fault of the country but of the situation in which I am placed. We slept one night at a little Inn among the mountains and the next day we descended into the plains of Tuscany and arrived at Florence just as the sun was setting in a cloudless sky and the par pie light of evening (no poetical exaggeration) floated over the valleys and over the distant hills. Florence is a most cheerful-looking place; our Inn is Schneider Hotel — the best here — it looks out upon the Arno between two beautiful bridges and we are nearly opposite to the house which belonged to Alfieri and which is now inhabited by the Countess of Albany.' Our accommodations are almost princely ; I must say for Mr. R. that he does not spare money, but I hate the parade and fuss with which we travel. I keep two journals — one contains merely notes of the places we stop at and everything we see — the other, which I always keep under lock and key, contains an exact and faithful account of my own impressions with all the little anecdotes, sketches of character etc., which I pick up from my own observations and those of others and also descriptions of scenery taken down on the spot. I have been very careful to be exact and accurate and true in every respect ; if my lively imagination makes things appear to me in more glowing colours than to others, that is not my fault. I describe as I see. . . . I have not seen much of Florence yet ; I have not even paid my devotions to the Venus de Medicis. I ' The Countess of Albany, Princess Louise of Stolberg, widow of Prince Charles Edward Stuart (1752-1824). 43 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships visited the Church of Santa Croce yesterday alone — it is the Westminster Abbey of Florence. 1 will write to you again before I leave Florence ; if you write the beginning of next month direct soin de Rowlcs, Poste Restante, Roma — if before, direct here as before. I have not laid out one penny idly since I left Paris, but have resisted all temptation. I must buy myself a new gown, and alas how much I regret my cloth pelisse ; it would be a treasure here, for I am told tliat the winter, while it lasts, is particularly cold, especially here. . . . Mother — sisters — all 1 love — I promised Mr. Jameson I would write to him on a certain condition. I have written twice from Paris and from Geneva; tell him so. Anna Murphy to Louisa Murphy. Florence, November /[th. . . . When we were in the north of Italy be- tween Milan and Venice the vintage was going on. While travelling along the road bordered on each side by vineyards in which they were gathering the grapes and where the vines were elegantly trained in festoons from tree to tree, we used to meet " red waggons " loaded with grapes and at the doors of the houses men treading the grapes or walking about with their legs stained half way up of a deep purple red. The country seemed fertile beyond description, yet the people looked miserable and ugly. We heard a good deal of music at Venice; one night I was awoke by a serenade, and such delicious music 1 should have thought it a dream, if everybody had not 44 Ital y been as much enchanted as myself. Venice struck me more than anything I have seen on this side of the Alps — it was so unlike anything in this world but itself that I know not to what to compare it; it is a very melancholy place, decaying rapidly and yet so mag- nificent in its decay that our wonder and compassion arise together. I was not there long enough to be tired of it and left it with a regret almost painful. I stood upon the Bridge of Sighs and I wished to have visited the celebrated dungeons, not from a vain curiosity or love of horrors, but from a wish to impress a real picture on my mind from which I might paint in words at some future time. I could not accomplish this — for I nearly fainted at the entrance and was obliged to be brought out. ... I sat down on the steps of the Giant's Staircase where Marino Faliero was beheaded. . . . We crossed the Apennines in two days ; they are not to be compared to the Alps, but the scenery was beautiful — our carriages were drawn up by oxen, so steep was the ascent in some parts. The weather was cloudless and brilliant but cold and windy on the summits. The descent to Florence I cannot describe; the city embosomed in woody hills crowned with castles and convents, the Amo winding through the valley, the rosy sunset, the beautiful little moon shining out of the sky, but all this is words, and words cannot paint nature. We have not been to the Gallery yet, but / have on the sly; my impatience would not wait. I saw the Venus and only the Venus; I would not, after looking at her, efface or weaken the impression on my imagination for worlds. I cannot describe her, I can only say that my mind was satisfied with beauty; those were the expressions which first occurred to me when 45 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships I could speak of it. No statue no cast or copy would ever give a perfect idea of it. One thing struck me, that in all the casts the position of the head is stiff, but not so in the original— the whole is perfection; had she walked off her pedestal I should have been de- lighted, but scarcely astonished. I bought as much silk this morning as will make me a very handsome winter dress and I paid twenty-three shillings English for it— fifty-four paoli— this is cheap, is it not? Anna Murphy to Camilla Murphy. Florence, November 12, 1821. Florence is a delightful place; the Arno runs through the middle of it, just in front of our Inn; on each side there is a broad paved way and the opposite side is the Rendezvous of the common people on Sunday, when it as as crowded and gay as Hyde Park — all Canaille, but the Canaille here have a look which is not \ailgar. The women of the lower classes wear beaver hats something like men's hats with large plumes of black feathers stuck upright in them, and when four or five meet together and talk with all the gesticulations and animation peculiar to this people, a spectator would take them for so many tragedy queens. I wish you had seen the mantua-maker kiss Mrs. R.'s hand, most grace- fully to-night, after trying on a gown; but there is no end to the amusing things we see here. ... In Florence the chief attraction is of course the celebrated gallery. I have been there six times and can truly say that I have not seen the half of what I wish to see; I have scratched a sort of plan of it. You walk between 46 Italy rows of fine antique statues and busts, round the narrow gallery, which opens into rooms containing the pictures, gems etc.; the room m which the Venus de Medicis stands is called the " Tribune " — it is paved with mosaic of marble and the walls are mother-of-pearl, lapis- lazuli, and other precious materials. A few exquisite pictures hang round — four of Raffaelle's; but I cannot particularize. I have seen, since I came to Italy, such exquisite pictures by painters one hardly hears of in England ! I saw two pictures lately of Carlo Dolce's, a Magdalen in the Gallery, and a head representing Poetry in the Corsini Palace. I shall never see again such pictures ; the most brilliant and at the same time the most delicate colouring, fresh as if just taken from the easel, and with that peculiar sentiment and expres- sion which belongs only to Carlo Dolce. To " Poetry " he has given red hair, literally as red as mine, and it did not strike me as ugly. But these are things not very amusing to you perhaps ; in books of travel they puff off a few chef d'oeuvres, of which one hears till one is sick of them. I have been most pleased with the very things I never heard of before. Laura has got a nice little horse and a stylish hat and feathers, and she is the admiration of all Florence; she looks the picture of health and loveliness ; the Grand Duke, whom we meet every day at the Cascine, always notices them and gives them Sugar plums. I hope to find a letter from Romie, and as our stay will be short write directly. I believe I have no more to add except that I love you all extremely, a piece of news which will at least please from its novelty. God bless you and prosper you all — Ever your own affectionate Anna. 47 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships Anna Murfyliy to D. B. Murphy. Florence, November 29, 182 1. ... I continue better in health and have reason to be grateful for it; I have suffered so very much, I cannot well bear fatigue, but I take care never to utter the least complaint and to be as cheerful as possible; no one can enjoy more than I do the beauties around me or seize with more avidity the advantages presented to me. My attachment to Mrs. R. makes me happy to be with her; though real pain of heart has a good deal damped my natural disposition to excitement and enthusiasm, I like to keep my mind tranquil and my imagination free and alive to all impressions of pleasure. I do not think any, of the objects presented to me, whether beautiful, wonderful, wild or amusing, are lost upon me. My only extravagance (if such it can be called) is having an Italian master regularly, and this I think you would like me to do, as it is not only a great advantage to me now, but will be of the greatest use to me hereafter. ... I denied myself a winter dress that I might have an Italian master. Mrs. R. has made me a present of as much beautiful velvet as will make me a Spenser, so in that respect I shall do very well. . . . It is in Italy that one most feels the influence of the fine arts. I think the climate and the scenery, by exciting the imagination, prepares it to be more sensible to the beauties, the ideal beauties, which are presented to the eye in painting and sculpture ; for here (as some author says) the loves and the graces liave descended to inhabit the hard marble and to dwell in the presentments of lights and shadows. The common 48 D. BROWXELL MURPHY. After a drawing by F. L. Chantrey, K A. To face p. 48. Ital y people here seem more susceptible to the impressions of beauty than elsewhere, but of the inhabitants I shall never speak because I have no opportunities of associ- ating with the better classes, and with the lower classes I have little to do. The tradespeople are most egregious cheats ; not among themselves I believe, but they seem to consider the English as fair prey. I always offer the half, and generally pay the half, I am asked for an article; you may have everything cheap, if you know how to set about a bargain. I have endeavoured to make one or two little sketches while I have been here. . . . Nothing can be more beautiful than the woody hills round Florence, intermixed with singular looking buildings and tall cypresses looking over the groves and vineyards now somewhat changed by the approaching winter. From the walls of Florence to the foot of the Apennines, it is all one vast garden, inter- spersed with villas and villages. In Florence the palaces of the nobles look much like fortresses; these are huge square buildings of massy stones and through the whole city, you trace vestiges of a proud republic, distracted by cruel factions within, even when most formidable without. The best description of Florence I remember was in Corinne; Madame de Stael has seized the most striking points and thrown them together like a painter, I could myself describe some scenes to you which would seem very like romance, for here every day, to one who is a quiet looker-on like myself, presents something strange and the common objects, the air, earth, and skies, are romance. I went on Sunday evening to hear Vespers in Santa Croce and staid till it was almost dark; while one end of the church was dimly lighted by the tapers which were round the glitter- 49 D Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships ing altar, the other was lost in the blackest shade. I could just distinguish through the gloom the white marble tombs where Galileo, Michel Angelo, Alfieri and other great characters reposed. The chanting of the via Crucis from a little chapel in the cloisters, now and then fell upon the car and the whole scene was, I think, the most solemn and touching I ever experienced. I write hurriedly and carelessly, or I might put all this into better language, language at least which would better convey what I felt ; but I have no time for de- scription. The common people in the streets here swear by Diaiia and Bacchus — and sometimes by the devil and capers ; they all look animated and industrious and I believe the Tuscan states are the best governed in Italy : in the northern parts of Italy, Lombardy and Venice, the people looked wretched and depressed. I have not quite recovered my regret at leaving Venice — if ever I revisit the Continent it will be to see that place again. . . . The house of the Countess of Albani is the general Rendezvous for the English; she is, you know, the widow of the Pretender and the widow or something else of the celebrated Alfieri whose house is just opposite to us. She is described to me as very like an old Cook maid in her appearance and gives herself, they all say, the airs of a princess. I should like to see her, but this is impossible; my dependent situation cuts me quite out of society and I have felt it more abroad than anywhere, but I am well content as it is and think myself fortunate in the opportunities afforded me of beholding these objects of which I have dreamed from my very childhood. Saturday, Dec. is/.— I hope to-day will bring me some letters ; it is not fair only to write to me once for 50 Italy every two or three letters I send home; my last letter was dated October 1 5th. Everybody seems to hear oftener from England than I do and I feel very anxious. I went out yesterday by myself to visit one or two places I had only seen once, going first to the Church of San Lorenzo ; it was a mezza festa, a kind of holiday, and a huge crimson curtain was suspended from the arched roof over the altar and hmig in loose folds on each side. The mixture of drapery and architecture, which I often see in the Italian churches and palaces, has a very beautiful effect; while the organ was play- ing in bursts of harmony and the acolyte was flinging about the incense, I stood in a little chapel and made a sketch of the fine sarcophagus in which rest the bodies of the famous Lorenzo de Medici and his brother Juliano, who was assassinated by the Pazzi. I called at Morghen's to see his engravings and I shall walk to Fiesole before I leave Florence, if possible ; then I shall have done all I wish. My dearest Father, I have now filled my paper ; I daresay you and Mamma expect more amusing letters than I write, but I feel confused with the variety of things I would wish to dwell upon. Adieu, all I love ; I shall write to Louisa when she deigns to take notice of my last two letters. Ever yours, Anna. Anna Murphy to Eliza Murphy. Rome, December 17, 182 1. My dearest Eliza, — . . . We arrived here on Sunday the iith, and Mr. R. after fluctuating and hesitating a long time, 51 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships has taken the Palazzetto Albani till the 6th of February. It was his first intention to spend the Carnival at Naples and I am not sorry that he has altered his plan; I would rather see Naples in the spring than in winter. Though we have been here so short a time, I have visited, in a cursory manner, most of the principal objects and some more than once. I rather think Rome will be a melancholy residence to me, though it interests me so very much; perhaps for that very reason. Mr. and Mrs. R. detest Rome at present — but I think they will like it after a while. Mrs. R. has just been introduced to some of the first people here and will find the society, extremely good, both foreign and English. In the meantime I shall poke about these old ruins and make myself quite a learned antiquarian. I have visited St. Peter's three times, the Vatican twice, the Pantheon, the Capitol, the Coliseum, the Forum, the pillars of Antonine and Trajan, the Borghese, the Corsini, the Barberini Palaces, and last of all the Pope in his pontifical splen- dour in the chapel of the Quirinal Palace — a good week^s work as Mr. Rowles calls it. St. Peter's is, in splendour and beauty, all it has been described to be, but it does not strike and please more the second time than the first; it is the first coup d'oeil which fills the mind; in the details it does not interest and except to hear the anthem I should not be very anxious to go there again. ... It is a fine theatrical scene to stand at one end of the central nave and see the various groups of figures, standing, kneeling, telling their beads— and walking about like little mice— and the pilgrims in various costumes, some of them fine savage Ruffian looking wretches, kissing the shrine, or prostrate round it, while the most profound silence reigns unless now 52 Italy and then the measured voice of a priest reading prayers in one of the chapels just falls upon the ear. No pews, skreens, or divisions break the noble effect of the archi- tecture — these are unknown in Roman Catholic churches. But if I go on prating of St. Peters, I shall leave myself no room to mention any other object. I have not seen at Rome anything which has struck me so much as the splendid Museum of the Vatican ; all the chef d'ceuvres of sculpture are arranged with such a mag- nificent taste and such a regard to the effect of the whole, that I have not words in which to describe the surprise and delight I felt on my first visit, though I merely walked through the galleries. The Apollo does not charm me like the Venus de Medici, though it strikes more. The collection at the Capitol is not large, but fine and select ; the best pictures, however, are in the private collections, which are numerous. On the whole, Rome would furnish amusement for many months — but this is not the best time of year. The weather though very unlike English weather, is rather too cold and damp to admit of rambling about at one's ease — and the days are too short to allow of any excursion in the neighbourhood. I have given up my Italian master until I am more certain about money, as I wish to secure the £15 due to Madame Aubert on the 27th of January. Where will you spend your Christmas this year? I shall think of you all and I am sure you will think of me and look at my effigy and wish for me. I found a letter here from Mr. Jameson, which, by reviving that struggle in my heart which I thought I had sub- dued, has rendered me rather unhappy; but we must suffer in this world and whether we suffer from one thing or another makes no difference. I wrote to him 53 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships —I do not know whether he will like my letter or answer it. I know not anything more I can say of Rome which would amuse you. Our journey from Florence, which we all left with regret, was through a paradise of a country — you can trace our course on the map. We slept the first night at Arezzo— where Petrarch was bom. The next day we travelled through the Apennines and by the famous Lake of Thrasymcne, where Hannibal defeated the Romans, to Perugia where we slept. From Perugia, through the vale of the Clitumnus, through Spoleto and Foligno, to Terni where we slept. Next day we visited the cataracts of Terni where a river is precipitated three hundred feet. I can give you no idea of this magnificent scene. That night we slept at Civitk Castellana — and the next day arrived at the gates of the Eternal City which we entered in the midst of a heavy rain, the first day of rain we had had for five weeks. The beauty of the country through which we passed, exceeds all power of words to describe — a succession of romantic hills, fertile valleys, classic streams, cities perched like eagles' nests on the declivi- ties of mountains. I have myself seen a soft white cloud floating between me and a town and resting, as it were, on the towers of a convent, while the whole heavens around were as serenely and brightly blue as in our midsummer. The olive trees were in full foliage and fruit, the orange trees loaded with oranges ; the other trees not more stripped than in our October. The Inns were bad and we travelled with such a large party, that it was difficult to procure accomodation, the beds were sometimes bad, but I expected more dirt and fleas ; in the latter the season was in our favour. On the 54 Italy whole, I was much delighted ; a few little privations are no great punishment to me. . . . We go to-day or to-morrow to the Studio of Canova, he is one of the principal persons here; not to know Canova, not to have been introduced to him, argues yourself unknown ; the Marquis Canova, ^ he is always styled. A great enthusiasm for the line arts prevails here, even the lowest classes of people venerate the antiquities and point out to strangers the remarkable sights or objects with a sort of pride. Camillo, our lacquais de place, is a great antiquarian, talks of Livy and Sallust, etc., and told me the other day that he had been studying Rome for thirty years. It is the same with the waiting maid who, wdien we are walking, never fails to point out all the beauties and monuments we meet. Your affectionate, Anna. Anna Murphy to Charlotte Murphy. Rome, Januaiy 19, 1822. ... A few days ago it was the feast of St. Antony, the patron of horses and cattle and it is the custom in Rome for the o\vners and drivers of all horses, donkeys, oxen and other beasts of burthen, to take them to the Church of St. Antony to be blest by the priest. To-day I saw several of these animals pass by with their heads and tails fantastically decorated with knots of dirty ribbon, red, blue, and yellow, and old feathers and I was tempted by the ridiculous sight to walk ^ Antonio Canova, 1 757-1822. 55 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships up to the Church, which is not far from us, to see what was going forward. You must imagine, if you can, the fagade of one of the finest Churches in the world (S. Maria Maggiore) with the flight of steps leading to it, a noble place (piazza) in the front with a noble Corinthian column and fountain in the centre and a little beyond it the Church of St. Antony, a small mean building but now the great object of attraction. To- day was a hohday, and I suppose not less than five or six thousand people were assembled within, around and before Santa Maria Maggiore, and in front of the Church of Sant Antonio. Horses and carriages with elegant harness, strings of donkeys, mules, were moving in a line to be blest in order. Several horse guards were employed in keeping a clear space. There were stalls, puppet shows and a ceaseless motley ever-renewed crowd of people in every kind of costume, in dresses which I should in vain attempt to describe, for our language has no names for the raajiy parts of which it is composed. Then there were mendicant friars, smart peasant girls, wearing their stays outside their gowns and stitched over with knots of gay ribbons, well-dressed women in the last Parisian fashion, ruffian-looking men lounging about with their dark sinister faces and pic- turesque cloaks hanging about them; in short I should in vain attempt to enumerate all the strange sights I saw, the least of which would be a nine days' wonder in England, but did not so much strike me except in the aggregate, having become tolerably accustomed to strange sights. I made my way through this assemblage to the door of St. Antony's Church, where stood a priest with a basin of holy water at his side into which he dipped a brush like a small hearth besom, and sprinkled 56 Italy the animals with it as they moved by, muttering a benediction, in the name of St. Antony, the Father, the Son and the Holy Ghost. . . . Several paid money, particularly those who went in their own carriages, and received in return a detestable print of St. Antony, like nothing human or divine, and a little cross of blessed efficacy. ... Of the multitude of novelties which meet my eye every day and hour of the day, I know not what to select, my dear Charlotte, to amuse you. A list of old temples and monuments' certainly would not delight you, for though very picturesque in reality, I am afraid they would not look picturesque on paper. A iew days ago I was present at a most magnificent ceremony at St. Peter's. There are only four days in the year on which the Pope assists, as they call it, at Mass at St. Peter's. He was carried in a grand procession up the central nave of the Church, on the shoulders of twenty bearers, preceded and followed by. a train of Cardinals and dignitaries and, as he advanced, blessing the people as he moved along, all the military and spectators sank on their knees. There were about four thousand people present and the Church would have held with ease three times, or rather ten times, the number. The music when the Pope is present, is purely vocal without any accom- paniment whatever and the finest voices in the world are selected. The only music I have heard in Rome has been sacred music, as I never go out anywhere either to the theatres or into society. I have heard some serenades, but at this season they are not frequent. Claude lived in a small house at the end of our street and Poussin close to him. I never pass by their houses without looking up at them. The Banditti are 57 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships so formidable on the road to Naples that I fear we shall not go on. Mr. Rowles, who is no hero, seems inclined to give up the scheme. An Austrian Colonel was taken by them about a week ago and since then all Rome has been in movement ; twenty thousand crowns have been demanded for his ransom. The Austrians, they say, will take this insult up seriously and a considerable body of troops have been sent to Cisterna to surround the robbers in the mountain, but the event is not Tcnovvn. I believe I shall keep my letter open for a few days that I may tell you more. If the brigands are exterminated we shall go on to Naples, but such is the incredible imbecility of the Government, that little hopes can be entertained of a favourable result ; the very Ministers, they say, are in the pay of these robbers. At all events, we leave Rome about the fifth of February — but whether we go north or south I know not. I shall grieve at leaving Rome. Everybody is tired of it but me and I am still in the first fervour of enthusiasm, not having exhausted half the subjects of curiosity and reflection I meet at every step. Jan. 28th. I can, at length, after some days of suspense, inform you that our journey to Naples is now decided on, and we shall leave Rome next Friday and reach Naples on Sunday. The Austrian has been liberated and the banditti have had a good fright. The road is considered tolerably safe, but it is all chance — they may take a fancy to us and if we are seized and carried up into their mountain for a few days (the worst that can happen to me, for Mr. R. will I hope ransom me among the rest) it will be a very romantic adventure. 58 Italy Naples, February 13, 1822. My dearest Mother, — . . . Now for news and Naples — my dear Mamma how I wish you were here — how you would enjoy these glorious scenes, and this delicious climate. I never ^elt Italy till after we passed Terracina, then we began to feel the influence of the South ; the burning suns, the Orange groves, the myrtle hedges, the Palm trees and aloes, the blue skies and bluer seas all breathe of an enchanted land, for such it is. I wish for dear Papa and other dear people whom I will not individualize, who would truly feel and enjoy it all and help me to enjoy it more than I do. We left Rome on the first of February ; I was very sorry to quit it, it contained so much to occupy and interest me. The road was well guarded by the Austrian troops and we felt no alarms ; it was at Terracina that we first came close to the shores of the Mediterranean and it was at Terracina that the land of the south opened upon us in all its glories and in all the imaginary splendour of classical and romantic interest. At Mola di Gaeta, where we slept the second night, our Inn was close to the Ruins of Cicero's famous Formian Villa, where he was murdered. It was within a dozen yards of the sea which formed the most beautiful bay (very like the Bay of Naples on a small scale) ; to reach the shore we walked through a thick grove of orange and lemon trees loaded with fruit, their boughs literally bending over the sea. This scene, lighted up by an Italian moon, exceeded every- thing I have imagined of natural beauty ; even the Bay of Naples has not so much delighted me, splendid 59 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships as it is. I think Naples, for those who are rich, idle and happy, must be a charming place ; I do not like it quite so much as I expected — for the inconveniences and disadvantages arc precisely those which I most feel, while its advantages and pleasures are almost out of my reach. Here I cannot walk the streets, for though you know 1 have no weak timidity and am accustomed to walk the streets of London, yet I can give you no idea of the streets of Naples ; to pass through them in a carriage is the most amusing thing in the world, but when I attempt to walk out by myself I am so stunned, so astonished, so pushed, so frightened, that I lose my presence of mind and am glad to run home like a frightened bird. Thus I am quite dependent on the carriage, not being able to afford coach hire ; and the city being of immense size, all the principal objects are at a great distance and as for the environs, which are replete with beauty and interest, I dare not venture upon them — the shoals of beggars, loungers, and ruffian lazzaroni exceed all belief and all description ; in short I am here a kind of prisoner, which does not at all agree with me. I have no doubt, however, that Mrs. R. seeing this, will generally take me with her when she goes to see anything very interesting, and with this I must be satisfied, the more easily because I do not feel much curiosity. The scenery is the charm of Naples and from my balcony, which is close to the sea, I have a prospect which ought to satisfy any one not absolutely unconscionable. We have been to the famous Opera House of San Carlo, which I do not think equal to the Scala at Milan ; it is however very splendid. The Opera is not good ; nothing but Rossini's music is to be heard in Italy 60 Italy anci I am tired of. it ; the ballets are beautiful. At present the Carnival reigns here, but masking is only allowed twice a week — Sundays and Thursdays — and on those two days Naples is like a vast puppet show, the people drive about pelting each other with sugar plums. Our carriage, when we came home yesterday, was whitened over with sugar plums and we had our- selves expended five or six shillings worth ; they came down upon us from the balconies sometimes like a shower of hail. The whole is extremely ludicrous and some of the masks are very amusing. We are to go to Pompeii I believe some time or other — and (I hope) to Vesuvius, but I am not sure. I have not been well since I came to Naples and the children have all been indisposed — particularly the youngest — yet nothing can be more pure than the air or more delicious than the climate. I have received a hint from Mr. R. that Mrs. R. wishes to have a French governess for Laura when we are at Paris ; that sounds very inconsistent with all the professions Mrs. R. has always made me, but, however I may feel it, I shall take it all as a thing of course, and we shall part very good friends. Before leaving Naples Anna had an opportunity of ascending Vesuvius during an eruption ; she wrote a vivid account of her adventures to her sister Eliza. My dearest Eliza, — ... I can hardly imagine a more glorious and wonderful spot in the world than the whole bay and neighbourhood of Naples. I had an opportunity of witnessing a most magnificent spectacle, an eruption 6i Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships of Mount Vesuvius and ascended the mountain during the height of it, in company with Mr. Rowles and Mr. Copeland. I was exposed, at one moment, to imminent danger from an immense red-hot stone which came bounding down the mountain, and saved myself by an exertion of presence of mind, which (though I say it that should not say it) was hardly to be expected from a woman at such a moment. I was then within fifteen yards of a stream of lava, which, glowing red-hot or rather almost to a white heat, rolled along like a cascade of fire. There were six distinct streams, the longest reached about two miles. The explosions of fire followed each other with incessant rapidity every half minute ; the column of flames from the centre rose to a quarter or the third of a mile high, and the stones, which flew up like thousands of rockets, were projected with such amazing force that they seemed suspended in the air — sometimes at a height of a mile and a quarter. I do not tell you this from guess or hearsay. Of the terrible magnificence of the whole scene, of the intense darkness of the night, I can give you no idea. I have reason to rejoice that the mountain was so obliging as to give us this reception during our short stay. . . . From Naples to Rome we have had the most resplendent weather and (excepting through the Pontine Marshes) the most lovely scenery in the world. We are here for ten days or a fortnight in the best hotel in Rome and in excellent quarters al- together. I have managed my money matters with such rigid economy that I have six guineas to receive on the 26th. I had a wish to buy a coral necklace at Naples, which I manfully resisted ; not that it 62 Italy required much self-denial, as I do not much care about those things, but I thought you girls would have liked it amongst you. The best shoes and gloves I have met with are made at Naples ; the most expensive and fashionable shoemaker charges five shillings a pair for shoes and the best gloves are tenpence a pair ; washing and all the necessaries of life are very cheap. The lower classes lead a kind of animal life ; they seem quite careless of the future. When hungry they labour just enough to procure food for the present necessity, when satisfied they lie down in the sunshine or lounge about in all the luxury of indolence ; but the indolence of Naples is not the solemn indolence of Rome — the people, though idle, always seem to enjoy life, and waste their spirits in talk and noise and merriment. Rome seems dull after Naples — but I do not dislike it — or rather I should hate to see old Rome turned into such a Bartholomew fair and inhabited by such a merry Andrew set of ragamuffins. The silence and solemnity which reign here become the place. . . . The Rowles spent Holy Week in Rome and Anna writes to Camilla describing the solemn service of the Miserere, which she witnessed in the Sistine Chapel :— The Sistine is the famous chapel painted by Michael Angelo. I was seated opposite to the " Last Judg- ment " and while they were chanting the tiresome service which precedes the Miserere, I had time to consider it at leisure — but all my consideration would not persuade me to like it. The colouring is so damaged and bad and the mind so distracted by the 63 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships multiplicity of the figures ; this is very bad taste of mine, but it is the truth. During the chanting, the tapers were gradually extinguished, the shade of twilight closed around us and at last, after a solemn hushed pause of several minutes during which not a breath is heard, the Miserere begins. I had heard that people fainted and fell into Hysterics etc. — I was not so power- fully or so painfully affected, but such music I never heard. When the finest voices in the world, blended in perfect harmony, began in the softest plaintive minor key, Miserere mei Deus I (Mercy O my God !), the effect was indescribable. No organ is allowed in the Pope's chapel and these heavenly voices, unassisted by any accompaniment, seemed to fill the air around ; such is the Miserere. After hearing it we walked into St. Peter's, where a cross was suspended from the dome lighted by two hundred lamps — notwithstanding its immense size it looked small and insignificant, but the effect of the strong light and deep shadows on the gigantic pillars, statues and on the assembled people, was excessively fine. About three or four thousand persons in every variety of costume, from the Prince in his stars and ribbons to the beggar in rags, from the lady habited in the last Parisian fashion to the peasant in her white veil and scarlet petticoat, from the robed and ermined cardinal to the pilgrim with his staff and cockle shell, wandered about with as much ease and as much space as if they had been in Hyde Park — such is the prodigious extent of this glorious church. I never could have imagined so extraordinary a scene as the whole presented, and perhaps I was the only person of our party who observed it in this light. They all fixed their eyes 64 Italy on the cross to criticize its size, without seeing the strange effect it produced and we remained but a short time. On coming out of the church, the moonUght on the silver fountains and the colonnade in front — but all this, as I write it, seems nonsense. I wish you could have seen the reality. As I have never failed noting down exactly and sincerely in my journal the impressions of every day, I think 1 shall be able to ,amuse you all, dear girls and Mamma and Papa, with some of my scribbles. I have always a note- book and a journal ; in the first I merely put down dates and occupations of the day ; the other, which is secured by lock and key contains all my remarks on the characters, scenes and incidents I meet with and this I never trust out of my hands to any human being — no one has ever looked into it. I have filled one note book and half another and have quite filled two thick journals, securely locked up, and have just bought a third, so 1 am not idle. I have collected material which, if I live and Heaven grants me health and that peace to which I have long been a stranger, I will turn to good account. ... I should suppose we go by Leghorn and Genoa over Mont Cenis according to our present plans which, according as the wind changes, may change to-morrow. How glad I shall be to see you all again ! how very glad ! I believe I shall be in London the latter end of June ; so at least I calculate. In your letter, mention all friends — Mr. Jameson and everybody. Dear Mamma has not written to me once since 1 left Paris ; I sigh for one of her maternal letters. I shall bring- home no presents to anybody ; that I feel rather a disappointment, but it cannot be helped. I wish to 65 E Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships purchase the Madonna for Mr. Jameson which he com- missioned me to buy — but the finest, which I long to get for him, the Dresden Madonna — is beyond my reach in point of price. I shall leave Rome with great regret. I have got acquainted with it as with a friend and it contains so much of interest that I shall leave many things unseen for want of opportunity, for I cannot be so absurd as to suppose that I am abroad merely to walk about where and when I like, instead of performing those duties which belong to my situation ; but all I could see and learn, I have seen and learnt. I never read anything but Italian, not having any French or English books, except Shake- speare. We go to Florence by Sienna ; we shall stay a week or ten days at Florence and then set off for Pisa and Leghorn. God bless you my dear Cam and Eliza and Louisa. Best love to dear Papa and Mamma, wherever they are and to all I love and who love ine. Your Anna. 66 CHAPTER III MARRIAGE AND AFTER •When Anna returned home she found that her parents were still absent at Leeds, where Mr. Murphy had gone on business connected with his profession. She seems to have had much at heart a project to set up a school, aided by her sisters, but want of capital prevented its realization. She ultimately accepted a situation as governess in the family of Mr. Littleton of Teddesley Park, after- wards Lord Hatherton. It is evident that she was still undecided in her mind with regard to Mr. Jameson ; she encouraged him indirectly, resented any criticism offered by her family and yet declined to give him any definite hope. She wrote the following letter to her mother from London, soon after her return from the Continent :— Anna Murphy to Mrs. Murphy. Saturday, June 15, 1822. . . . Louisa is going 011 delightfully, Cam as usual, and they are both dear Girls ; Eliza is the best 67 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships sister in the world. I am a great torment to her, as she will tell you if she tells truth, for I am not very merry or very talkative, though I intend to be so very soon and acquit myself to general satisfaction. . Mr. J. is very unhappy and persevering and vehement, and makes me uncomfortable without mean- ing or wishing to do so. I do not change without cause and I cannot change again ; it is not my nature or character. Note by Eliza. My very dear Mamma, — Anna having persuaded me that I ought to add a few lines to this as well as to finish it, I take up her pen, but really on reading what she has already written I find she has said all there is to be said. Her spirits, 1 am sorry to say, are not what they used to be, but she is resigned and thoughtful. She seems satisfied with all I do for her and that will keep me up till she is engaged as governess to some quiet and amiable person. I wish Papa would write to her ; I think one of his nice letters would do her good. She has made up her mind never to see Jameson again, which I believe is a sacrifice, and is chiefly the cause of her present lowness. I am in hopes that, in a few days, she will be better able to give me an account of her travels, which as yet she has very slightly mentioned. Your afifectionate Eliza Murphy. This fragment of a letter was evidently written by Mr. Murphy to his wife :— 68 Marriage and After My excellent Creature, — I write to tell you that I have nothing to say. A letter came from you this morning without a date, so I can't tell when it was written. I am a little uneasy about a ten pound Warwick note which I sent you on .Wednesday last — if you have not received it, let me know immediately. What you say of Anna and Jameson, I hlad anticipated and wrote to Camilla about it. I should have spoken to Jameson long ago but Anna herself prevented me, I am quite sure he is all honour and affection . . . but why should we urge these young people to marry and get into want and perplexities and ill -humour? We must at all events wait until Jameson speaks for himself. . . . Anna Murphy to Mrs. Murphy. August 19, 1822. . . . I owe my dear father an answer to his kind but rather melancholy letter ; tell him I am sanguine in my hopes of success. I have purchased a good reputation in the world, am now rather well known ; if I were to head an establishment with my sisters, aided by them, I should perhaps succeed. Papa has settled everything between Mr. Jameson and myself rather too hastily — in the first place I do not like to hear him called poor Jameson — in the next place, we are on just the same terms. I have the firm conviction that there exists a disparity between our minds and characters which will render it im- possible for me to be quite happy with him, and yet I think that he will have me simply because I 69 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships shall not, in the long run, be able to stand out against my own heart and his devoted affection, which is continually excited by the obstacles and the coldness which I throw in his way. There exists not a more amiable, excellent being ; I hear within these two days that he has been chosen by the Parish of Mary-le- bone to execute some legal business for which his fee will be 250 guineas, besides the advantages of such a connection. TErDESLEY Park, August I'jth. . . . I have sent Mr. Jameson my phiz ; by the by, were you sorry to part with it? and my little MS. book of Rhymes to which I added those written abroad. He has sent me a beautiful etching of his own performance. I hope you have seen it ; I thought it was beautiful before I knew it was his. He writes delightful letters and shows his character and feeling in them, more than in his conversation. . . . Tfddesley, September 20, 1822. Forgive me, my dearest Mother, for not having written to you before ; you would if I could tell you all the cross things which have prevented my writing. Mr. Littleton's absences, the many letters I have had to write home about business when I could again procure franks and the consecration of many of my short evenings to a little literary attempt made at Jameson's request and which he wishes to publish in the London Magazine. I have finished it, and it is by this time in the hands of Barry Cornwall ; it was 70 ROBERT JAMESON. After a miniature. Marriage and After almost all written at Rome and Florence in the foim of notes and now re -written, connected and corrected. I do not know what success it will have, nor do I hope for much. The year 1825 was an eventful one in the annals of the Murphy family. In this year the third sister, Louisa, for whom Anna had made arrangements in Paris, and who had since obtained a situation as governess, married an artist, Henry Bate, whose family she had known from childhood ; in this fatal year, Anna made an end of her hesitations and doubts and married her constant admirer, Robert Jameson. Never before had two people reversed the old proverb more successfully and married at leisure to repent in haste. The young couple settled in lodgings in Chenies Street, Tottenham Court Road ; an anecdote related in Mrs. Macpherson's biography of her aunt ^ shows in what manner Anna Jameson's married life began. The wedding took place on Wednesday : " On the Sunday Mr. Jameson announced his intention of going out to the house of some friends with whom he had been in the habit of spending Sunday before his marriage. The young wife was struck dumb by the proposal. ' But,' she said, ' they do not know me ; they may not want to know me. Would it not be better to wait until they have time at least to show whether they care for my acquaintance ? ' ' " Memoirs of the Life of Anna Jameson," by Gerardine Macpherson. 71 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships ' That is as you please,' said the husband, ' but, in any case, whether you come or not, I shall go.' The bride of three or four days had to make up her mind. How could she intrude herself upon strangers ? But supposing, on the other hand, that any friend of her own should come, any member of her family, to congratulate her upon her happi- ness, how could her pride bear to be found alone and forsaken on the first Sunday of her married life ? Accordingly, with an effort, she prepared her- self and set out with him in her white gown, forlorn enough, who can doubt? They had not gone far when it began to rain, and taking advantage of this same white gown as a pretext to escape from so embarrassing a visit, she declared it impossible to go farther. ' Very well,' once more said the bride- groom, ' you have an umbrella ; go back by all means, but I shall go on.' And so he did, and though received, as his astonished hosts afterwards related, with acclamations of bewilderment and con- sternation, calmly ate his dinner with them and spent the rest of the evening until his usual hour with perfect equanimity and unconcern." It is quite evident that this was not an isolated instance of Robert Jameson's coldness of tempera- ment and disregard of his wife's feelings. Anna had always realized that they were unsuited to each other, but she had evidently formed a high opinion of his moral and mental qualities and she had deceived herself in thinking that the true man was 72 Marriage and After shown rather in his well-expressed and expansive letters than in his actual intercourse. She was not long in discovering that these same letters, which continued to be charming and even affectionate long after they had separated, were no true index to his character. Her love of art and the necessity of making some effort to secure her independence and to help her family, then as always in financial straits, helped her through this sad time. The following letter was evidently written to Louisa on her wedding day :— Anna Murphy to Louisa Bate. Teddesley. I would not, dearest Louisa, disturb the solemn happiness of this day by putting you in mind of us poor exiles, did I not know full well that you will think of us without being reminded — that amid many feelings the absence of your sisters ^ will not be unfelt and that the assurance that our hearts are with you, that we think of you, feel for you, that our fondest wishes, prayers and love attend upon you, will add a little mite to even your vast sum of happiness ; yet, after all, the wedding day is not perhaps in itself the happiest day of a woman's life ; whether it is to be considered so or not depends on the future. May you, dear, dear Louisa, ever look back to this day as the happiest of your life because the commencement of an era of happi- ness. May you & Henry and all who love you, have reason to remember it with delight, tho' now it seem ^ Camilla was staying at Teddesley at the time. 73 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships too serious for joy ; this is the prayer of your absent sisters. Adieu — God bless you dearest Louisa & make you happier than I can tell. Ever your affectionate, Anna, " The Diary of an Ennuyee," first published anonymously as " A Lady's Diary," laid the foundations of Anna's fame as a writer. Since her marriage she had made this little record of her travels and of her broken heart into a story, which ended with the death of the heroine. Published through the friendly offices of an eccentric bookseller, an acquaintance of Mr. Jameson's, the " Diary " achieved immediate suc- cess. It is true that the writer only received a Spanish guitar for her share of the profits, but the publication brought her instant recognition and opened the door to further efiforts. Disappointed and embittered as she was at the outset of life, Anna took up her burden bravely, and there is no doubt that, in spite of her private griefs, she began to enjoy her position and to appreciate the warmth of her reception in literary society, both as a woman and as a writer. One of her earliest friends in the literary and artistic world was Mrs. Basil Montagu, in whose house she met many people, including her daughter, the charming and accomplished wife of Bryan 74 Marriage and After Procter, better known as " Barry Cornwall." ' Here, too, she met Fanny Kemble - in 1828, who describes her as " sitting on a sofa in a very be- coming state of plumpitude," quite unfitting for the heroine of "The Diary of an Ennuyee." In this hospitable house Anna made the acquaint- ance of Edward Irving,3 who reproached his host for introducing him to a living " Ennuyee," whose burial in a convent garden he had just been de- ploring : " Sir, I cannot forgive you," said he ; "you have robbed me of my honest tears." With the Procters Anna struck up a friendship that meant very much to her in her uncomfortable position. Mr. Procter became her legal adviser and helped her through all her differences and diffi- culties with her husband ; Mrs . Procter became her firm friend and counsellor, and their daughter Adelaide,4 then a baby, spoken of in the letters as " Poppet," was destined to be one of the younger generation whom Mrs. Jameson collected round her in later years. Mrs. Procter to Anna Jameson. 9, German Place, Thursday, June 26, 1827. My dear Mrs. Jameson,— I cannot tell you how very much obliged to you I was for your letter. First, I like a letter very ' Bryan Procter, 1 787-1874. ^ Fanny Kemble, 1809-1893. 3 Edward Irvine, 1792-1834. * Adelaide Procter, 1825-1864. 75 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships much, then I like Medea and, above all, I like a letter from a kind friend like you. I rejoice to hear that you were not disappointed and only wish that I had been there also. Your account gave me a great deal of pleasure and revived my recollections of her acting, enough to bring the tears into my eyes. I am getting better, which I am very glad of, for nothing can make me happy away from Mr. Procter. We have never been separated more than two days. I have not seen him since Friday morning nor shall I until Saturday evening — we have a nice house with a view of the sea and I really like Brighton much better than I ever did before. Poppet is growing quite a little Ball and is happier than I ever saw her. She is out the whole day and she is with great difficulty brought home even for her dinner " a man ! a man ! " is her " perpetual cry." I lead a truly royal life ; we merely live to please ourselves. We breakfast, walk, look at the sea, and read novels until two, when we dine, walk, ditto ditto until tea, and with great difficulty keep our eyes open until ten o'clock, when we all go to bed. I wish I had you here, you should be gloriously idle. I would throw pens. Ink and paper into the sea ; we would not recollect ever having heard Colburn's name and when you behaved ill, as a punishment, you should sing a Song to the guitar. When do you go into Devonshire? . . . pray write to me or I shall think that, like many ladies, my letter has lost me my lover ; don't laugh at my vanity in giving you that name, for that is really what you are to me. I never had but two before ; one I married and of course lost, and the other I did not love and 76 Marriage and After therefore lost. You have all the faults of one . . . you spoil me, encourage my vanity, for I say really if Mrs. Jameson, who first of all is very sensible, then has a great deal of taste, has known so many agreeable people &~. &c. &c. &c., likes me, I must be charm- ing. . . . My dear Mrs. Jameson. I do not think this, I only think that I have more enjoyment in your society than in any one else's and I am very grateful to you for sparing me so much of your time. Tell me when you write, what you are doing and about everything that interests and pleases you. It has been raining for four hours and the Sea is magnificent. 1 never have seen anything like a storm before. Pray do not wait for a Frank Your very affectionate A. B. Procter. how are the Beauties? Mrs. Montagu to Anna Jameson. August 25, 1 82 7. My dear Friend,— I waited two or three days after the receipt of your kind letter until some event should occur worthy of recording, for to tell you that I was thankful for your recollection of me and pleased and interested with your account of all around you, seemed a sorry return for your very agreeable communication. What then shall I say to you? that Poppet is every day wiser and more delightful and that she inherits all her mothers quickness of talent and something of 77 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships her quickness of temper ; that she rings the bell for her maid, when her friends grow tedious, and says " take away Poppet " — and when she is treated with a dry biscuit demurely signifies that " Poppet will take wmc too." All this is diverting enough, and done with much gravity, but woe to you if you should laugh, for her pride takes the alarm, and " they laugh at Poppet " is always followed by a flood of tears. We are left here in Londbn like some unfortunate fishes, upon the shore, and appear to be all waiting till the tide shall set our way. Mr. Montagu, who professes to like quiet, set off this day in a steam Boat to Margate to return on Monday. We, who profess to like gaiety, remain in Town and hear a Hackney Coach twice a day (the only sounds we do hear, for the Dust-men and the Old Clothes men are at Margate too), and count the houses with closed windows, as they did during the plague, and calculate how long it will be, vidth favourable weather, before the grass grows in the streets. I detected a Gentleman's carriage last night in Portland Place, but the people seemed so ashamed of being found in the act, or " caught after the manner " as the Lawyers, with their usual happy perspicacity term it, that delicacy obliged me to look another way ; in short, we are obliged to be civil to each other, to enjoy the society within doors and to keep ourselves awake by writing nonsense like this. In all this time I have not said one word of what is nearest my heart ; when you have picked up the feathers and straws that float on the surface, dip deeper and find the under current of my true feeling for you; for your kind opinion of me you have my best courtesy, for that is a mere matter of taste, for your reposing, 78 Marriage and After confiding love and friendship, you have my best affections and constant anxious wishes. I do not say "dear Mrs. Jameson" or "Sweet woman" or " talented creature " or any of those glib sentences which slide so easily off the tongue that one shrewdly suspects they are only to be found where deep waters take their course silently, while the inch-deep brook babbles to every passer-by and talks loudest when it has a hard and rocky bosom. You gave me a charming portrait of your Mary Ashworth, for so I think your fair relation is called, and to-day you have sent us a lovely Landscape which forms a delightful background to your figures ; there should have been only one, for so lovely a Claude, but you put a swing between the Elms and made a Watteau of it at once. Your sincere affectionate friend D. B. Montagu. The Jamesons appear to have lived together until the year 1829, when he obtained an appointment as puisne judge in the island of Dominica. Soon after her husband's departure, Anna and her father accompanied Sir Gerard Noel and his daughter on a tour abroad. Mr. Murphy had suffered a great loss in the death of Princess Charlotte,' and in the refusal of Prince Leopold 2 to buy the copies of the *' Beauties " on which he had been so long engaged. They were eventually bought by Sir Gerard Noel, and Mr. Murphy then made an effort to utilize ' Princess Charlotte died in 181 7. ^ Prince Leopold of Saxe-Coburg (afterwards King of the Belgians), 1 790-1865. 79 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships his work by having the paintings engraved and pubHshed in a book, the letterpress of which was written by his daughter. " The Beauties of the Court of King Charles II " had a literary and artistic success, but brought no pecuniary gain. Anna tells us, in her " Visits and Sketches at Home and Abroad," ^ with what feelings she watched the shores of her native country recede for the second time in her life : " I thought, not without gratitude, of the contrast between present feelings and those of a former journey. To abandon oneself to the quickening influence of new objects, without care or thought of to-morrow ; with a mind awake in all its strength, with natural health and cheer- fulness, with sensibility tamed, not dead ; possess- ing one's soul in quiet, not sinking or shrinking from excitement ; not self -engrossed nor yet pining for sympathy ; was not this much ? " " We travelled a la MUor Anglais,'' she says later on ; "a partle carree \ a barouche hung on the most approved principles, double-cushioned, luxurious, rising and sinking on its springs like a swan on the wave ; the pockets stuffed with new publications, maps and guides ad infinitum ; English servants for com- fort, foreign servants for use ; a chessboard, backgammon tables — in short, surrounded with all that could render us entirely independent of the amusements we had come to seek and the people we had come to visit." ' Published 1834. 80 Marriage and After Anna Jameson to her mother and sisters. Brussels, August 9, 1829. Dear good People,— This letter being intended for the public benefit, as I have not time to address you individually, I desire that (like a bill in Parliament) it may be read in a Committee of the whole house, with the exception only of those who choose to be excepted. We have reached this place, one of our chosen stations on the journey, and I am quite delighted with what I have seen of it and pleased with all my travelling companions, but most of all with Sir Gerard, who is really very amiable and very interesting — and Harriet Jane and I get on capitally together. She is a good little creature, with some of her father's caprices, much of his talent and more of his real benevolence. As to Papa, he is in excellent spirits and desires me to tell you that he behaves very well. He goes wandering about and admiring everything he sees and he has bought a pair of spectacles for ten pence which are the best in the world and a pair for Mama and a lantern for Edward to send up at his kite's tail, with other invaluable things, too many to commemorate, and I think I never saw him so happy or look better. I cannot say the same for myself. I was the greatest sufferer during our sea-voyage ; others were more violently ill, but I fainted away continually and being laid on the deck and exposed to the air (which alone kept life in me) my face was blistered all over and, besides the general derangement of the whole system, I caught a feverish cold and have been ill ever since ; I am still very poorly 81 F Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships —I hate it and am inclined to repine, particularly as they are all going to a pleasant party to-night, and I cannot stir. . . . We left Ghent yesterday morn- ing and reached Brussels about 3 and had the felicity of changing all our garments and making ourselves comfortable ; we all turned out to dinner like Snakes which had cast their skins. Papa and Sir Gerard sat to their wine and Backgammon and we went to a Cafe in the Park and eat ices and drank coffee. I was so ill I was fairly done for and had just strength to get into bed and got no sleep when I was there ; to-day I remained at home when they all dispersed different ways and then ordered myself a little open carriage (the hackney coaches are Barouches) and drove out quietly thro' the principal streets, squares and promenades and then went into the park to hear the royal Band play the most delightful music out of all my favourite operas. The park, by the by, is not at all like an English Park ; it is more like Kensington Gardens, but not so extensive. There was a crowd of elegant people, all in their best, (being Sunday) seated in groups or walking in a circle round the Pavilion in which the band was stationed. The dresses were superb, the sun shone bright and the whole scene was inexpressibly gay. My bedroom window overlooks these gardens, so you may imagine how well we are situated — our Hotel (La Belle Vue) is in fact a Palace. . . . God bless you all — how I wished for you this morning I Do not omit to write ; whether you have anything to say or not, it would be a comfort to hear from you Ever your affecte. Anna. 82 Marriage and After Anna returned to the house of her sister, Mrs. Bate, after this short trip abroad and resumed her usual hfe. Robert Jameson's letters from Dominica show that he was the same clever, cynical being that he had shown himself to be in former years, with the old trick of expressing on paper an affection that he seemed quite without in actual intercourse. Robert Jameson to Anna Jameson. Dominica, November 6, 1831. My dearest Anna,— Thank you for all the solicitude you express about me. My situation has indeed long been as un- comfortable as unprofitable, and such appears to be the state of aff"airs at home that my long cherished hopes of amendment have almost subsided. I am startled at the thought of your coming here as at something suicidal, though your society would make even this place happy to me, though the only object of my coming out here was that I might hereafter live in comfort with you. I dare not think of such a thing. I must return to England, or get a better appointment. Had I even a thousand pounds in my possession, I should be tempted to quit this country ; anything rather than this wearisome banishment. For a short time, however, I must wait and see what are the intentions of Government ; either place or compensation in England, I fear, is almost unattainable, however small. Your domestic intelligence is upon the whole conso- latory. 83 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships I think I did acknowledge the receipt of the Box of books— They arrived I think on the very day I was writing to you— 15th January. The Wordsworth is still upon my table in all its pristine purity— for no one except myself has ever opened its leaves ; other readers who have seen it are satisfied with the perusal of the label, but the two novels are literally nearly worn out having been read by every person in the town who directly or indirectly could borrow them. The "Manners of the day" clever though it be in many parts is one of those artificial ephemeral things which excite little sym- pathy in me, but the " Collegians," which I have read several times, is one of the most powerful and masterly things I have for a long time met with. I would rather have written the scenes on the Lake of Killamey — in house of Barnaby Lugan, the cottage of Phil Naughten and Cudle Clinte, than all the trash of Mr. Bulwer and not a few of the later novels of Sir Walter Scott. Was it in contempt of the flimsy affectation of the Almacks family of novels, that the author enlisted such doric names as Cregan and Clinte and Kyrle Daly? Besides these and " The Inheritance " (which I read three times a month) I have read scarcely anything unprofessional except Shakespeare and a few of those good stock books which every young gentle- man is expected to have read when at school and which nobody even looks into afterwards. I have also been re-reading your own two books of late oftener than I can tell and with more admiration than ever ; I have still the greater affection for your Diary, for there I am ever with you : in the company of its more brilliant successor I have not the same sympathy or companion- ship—except indeed with Dante during his occasional 84 Marriage and After visits to Hell — which I have no doubt very much resembles Dominica morally and physically. We have for the last three weeks had a rapid succession of young Earthquakes and the ground is still very tremulous, but no mischief has been done. Then the springs of boiling sulphur, which are very numerous here, have been vomiting forth their Stygian blasts to such a degree as to be hardly endurable ; everything of Silver is kept as black as coal. Still, I should not object to the brimstone nor to the Earthquakes,^ nor to many other small nuisances, if the place were peopled by Christians. The moral atmosphere of this Colony continues much the same, or rather thickens towards a perfect state of brutality. Whether the Governor's arrival will make any difference is questionable. I do not think there is good enough in the country to save it. To live in such a spot without being worn, either in body or mind, is quite impossible ; that both are impaired is the most probable. I hope this will reach you at Teddesley — and that you will be enjoying the delicious frost and snow of England. After three years roasting I apply the epithet seriously. Do not think me querrulous and discon- tented. I have borne much very goodtemperedly hitherto, but it cannot be wondered at that I am not satisfied to go on thus, year after year, separated from you and all who are dear to me, a sot, contented to live and die among those whose most refined pleasures are eating Turtle and drinking punch and Madeira. ... I hope you will write frequently and tell me all the news you can, either family or political. If a letter be a matter of interest to you in London, sur- rounded by your family and friends, what must it be 85 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships to me in my solitude here? I will write every packet. Remember me in the kindest manner to all at home. I would ask a thousand questions about others, but it is sickening to think of the months that must elapse before they could be answered. I shall therefore rely upon your telling me what you know will be a matter of interest. Would to Heaven that before such answer could arrive, I might be on my way to England ! The most tempestuous passage across the Atlantic would in itself be delightful, if it led to such a conclusion ; in short, I am as sick for home as of the West Indies. Have you heard anything of Alma of late? I should like much to hear that he was prosperous. You have never told me whether your miraculous Baby be a gentleman or a lady, so that of course I am in your countryman's awkward predicament of not knowing whether I am an uncle or an aunt. The gun has fired a summons for the letters to be taken on board, so lest mine should lose its passage, I must conclude. Being ever your most affectionate, R.S.J. While Robert Jameson was lamenting his fate in Dominica, Anna was becoming much more recon- ciled to life in London. She was incessantly active and had published " Loves of the Poets " in 1829 and "Celebrated Female Sovereigns" in 1831; she had written the letterpress to the unfortunate " Beauties " in the same year, and a letter from Cecilia Siddons, in August 1831, alludes to an 86 Marriage and After article that she wrote after the death of her cele- brated mother. Cecilia Siddons to Anna Jameson. 23, Windsor Street, Edinburgh, August 22, 183 1. Dear Madam, — It cannot, I think, be unacceptable to you, to learn the gratification you have given me, by your Article in the new Monthly Magazine relating to my most beloved Mother,' which I have only seen within the last three weeks, and I have withheld my thanks only till I knew your address. It would be saying very little to tell you how far it is superior to any thing telse that has yet been said on the subject, for almost all besides, have had rather a tendency to wound, than to soothe, feelings that must be deep and tender in proportion as their object was intimately known ! but I trust I say what will please you more, in regretting that you were not better known to her, since one who could judge her so well, must, if known, have been appreciated by her, I make no apologies for bringing myself to your notice, but remain, Dear Madam, Yours very gratefully and sincerely, Cecilia Siddons. Another acquaintance made about this time was ' Mrs. Siddons (Sarah Kemble), 1755-1S31. 87 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships the accomplished Geraldine Jewsbury, who encloses a poem in one of her letters :— Maria Jane Jewsbury i to Anna Jameson. 6, Poland Street, Marlborough Street, Friday Noon. (Postmark 1830) Dear Madam, — Had I not heard from my friend Mrsj. J. C. Hall, that you had done me the honour to mention me with much kindness, I know not whether I should have ventured, as I do now venture, to request your acceptance of the accompanying volume, recently published, but which may not have reached your hands. I have another reason for so doing ; immediately after finishing the first story, I met with a sentence in the preface to " Loves of the Poets," which gave me the painful yet gratifying conviction, that on one subject, (that of female authorship) we agreed in opinion. I exceedingly wish for an opportunity of discovering in conversation that we agree on others. I have also one or two compliments to communicate, that con- sidering the source, I cannot but think it would gratify you to know have been paid to your writings. I say this on the supposition that you venerate Wordsworth's poetry ; for myself, I have long since forgotten the poet in the friend. I wish I dare hint, that I am stationary here till next Thursday or Friday, and that I should be rnost happy to receive, or make any call, that would facilitate a pleasure alluded to in the earlier part of this note. I have the greatest possible respect for etiquette, and the least possible liking, when it ' Maria Jane Jewsbury, author of several books and some verse ; elder sister of Geraldine Endsor Jewsbury, 181 2- 1880. Marriage and After interferes with the attainment of a favourite object ; but lest I should swell the note of a stranger to the letter of a troublesome acquaintance, permit me to remain with much admiration of your accomplished mind, M. J. JEWSBURY. 6, Poland Street, Thursday. June 1 8, 1830. My dear Madam, — As I find it will not be in my power to take the chance of finding you at home to-morrow, and as I really think that two visits in one week are trespasses sufiicient, I send the songs I should have brought, requesting that you will not be in any haste to return them. Indeed the longer you do me the favour to keep them, the surer I shall feel of the prospect of renewing our acquaintance, and I speak but the English truth, when I say this will give me unfeigned pleasure. As you expressed a desire to know my opinion of Mrs. Shelley, ' I will take the present opportunity of saying, that I rarely, if ever, met with a woman to whom I felt so disposed to apply the epithet " bewitching." I can of course merely speak of appearances, but she struck me in the light of a matured child ; a union of buoyancy and depth ; a something that brought to my remembrance Shelley's description of Beatrice in his preface to the Cenci. To those she loves her manners would be caressing ; to a stranger they are kind and playful, less from a desire to please, than from a habit of amicable feeling. Her hilarity, contrasted with the almost sadly profound ' Mary WoUstoncroft Godwin, second wife of the poet, 1 797-1 85 1 . 89 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships nature of some of her remarks, somewhat puzzled me. It is not the hilarity assumed by worn minds in society, — it is simple — natural— and like Spring full of sweet- ness, but I doubt her being a happy woman, and I also doubt her being one that could be distinctly termed melancholy. Looking over the best part of the writings of her father, mother, and husband, she is the kind of woman for them to love and describe. She reminded me of no person I ever saw, but she has made me wish the arrival of the time when I am to see her again. She is not one to sit with and think ill of, even on authority. I hope I have not wearied you — if 1 am fortunate enough to give you five minutes pleasure I shall feel gratified — because I remain dear Madam Your's with much interest M. J. JEWSBURY. THE WORLD'S MAS.QUE. I am not old, not very old. My hair perchance is grey. But there's a spirit in my heart That keeps old age away, — 'Tis love — that like an angel guards Life's fountain from decay. I look upon my fellow men. To me they are a book, ' And oft my fancy rightly spells Their thoughts by word and look, — Ay — many a proud and weary wight kWho searching ill would brook. 90 Marriage and After For this I seek the haunts of mirth. And those that mirth haunts least, None fear me — for they deem me one With whom life's love hath ceased ; They slip their visors — and I see • The spectre at the feast ! When others praise the lute and song, The singer and his shell, I gaze upon each listener's face That can deep histories tell. Seeking the one for whom alas, The singer sang too well ! I follow in the track of fame, The path her crowned ones tread, Others behold their glittering eyes. But I their brows instead, — And the momentary look that asks For rest — if with the dead. And when I see a placid face That speaks the heart asleep, While others on its beauty dwell, I — turn aside and weep. For all that, ere a year be past. May there plough furrows deep. The man, the man of quip and jest. Whose heart hath long been dry, A fountain whence no water flows But weeds instead wave high, — - Others may hear his courtly wit, I — but his smothered sigh i 91 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships O fellow men ! how often grief Is on me for your sakes, And yet I would not love you less, For the sorrow that love wakes Makes my soul prayerful for you all, And happy while it aches ! M. J. JEWSBURY. The " Characteristics of Women " ' was very well received. The title was not of the happiest, and Fanny Kemble, to whom it was dedicated, appears to have suggested a better one, showing that it was the characters of Shakespeares women that were delineated ; for some reason Anna kept to her first choice. From time to time Anna still received affection- ate letters from the exile, whose whimsical humour must often have amused her in spite of herself. Robert Jameson to Anna Jameson. Dominica, January 5, 1832. My dearest Anna, — So strangely have the winds trifled with us that the two last packets have arrived so long after their time that one had been several weeks abandoned as lost and the non -arrival of the other become a matter of wonder. They came at last and your two last letters (20th Oct. and 15th Nov.) have arrived almost ' Published 1832. 92 Marriage and After at the same time. I have nearly been deprived of the power of acknowledging them by this mail — ^which will be here this evening — for the night before last I was seized with a slight fever and lay twenty -four hours rolling on my bed, sympathizing most feelingly with Kehama and the other red-hot gentlemen who are said to support the throne of Siva. The fiend has left me, but weak, muddle-headed and as full of acute pains as if I were the very genius of Gout. Luckily I refused to have any medical attendant, or I might, instead of being quite well to-morrow, have been confined three weeks to come in recovering from their remedies. Your letters are painfully interesting, but, even in the pleasantest parts, not calculated to tranquillize, but, on the contrary, to stir up a tumult of hopes and wishes which 1 can hardly write of at this moment with proper coherence. I expect daily to hear matter of importance from England by the hands of our Governor, who has been, like the packets, kept back by contrary winds. The Government have promised, in the strongest terms, in consequence of things that have taken place here, that we shall immediately undergo a thorough change and I have reason to expect that I shall not be overlooked. At any rate, I will not be long separated from you, but I think it will be in England that we shall first meet again. I do not look with much complacency to any appointment in the West Indies. It is a dismal, vulgar, sensual, utterly unintellectual place to spend the best years of one's life in. There are no retiring pensions attached to these high sounding offices, as there are in the splendid East ; and by the time a man can save enough to buy him an annuity of £25, for the remaining 93 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships seven years of his miserable life, he is a poor old yellow unserviceable thing that has left its liver behind it. . . . Farewell, for the present, my dearest Anna and believe me ever entirely your affectionate, R. Jameson. My dearest Anna, — The delay in the arrival of the Mail Boat gives me an opportunity of adding a P.S. ; and, in conse- quence of what has taken place since last night, it will be in all probability detained here some hours when it does arrive. I Avas awakened out of a capital sleep this morning by the intelligence that the Governor was within a few miles of the shore. Things were arranged with so much propriety that, just in the most burning part of the day, he landed. ,We conducted him to Government House, where two or three hours were spent in a manner most agreeable to a man in delicate health and wearied with a long voyage ; that is in reading his Commission and swearing him in to his office. Of course I have seen nothing yet of either him or Miss MacGregor, but his appearance is extremely interesting and I cannot but augur well from his manner. He is very like a pale Charles Kemble, but seems to be sadly cut to pieces in war, writes with his left hand etc. I am to meet him at dinner) an hour from this time. I suspect, poor man, he would rather spend the evening in a cool, quiet room with his daughter. . . . In 1833, Mr. Jameson returned from Dominica in quest of a better appointment, which he soon 94 Marriage and After obtained through his wife's influence. He was only a few months in England before leaving for Canada to take up his new appointment as puisne judge in the province of Toronto. Soon after his departure, Anna set out for Germany. 95 CHAPTER IV GERMANY Anna had visited Germany in 1829, when she and her father had been the guests of Sir Gerard Noel ; she had, ever since that date, longed to return to a country with which she felt herself much in sym- pathy. Italy was still the land of her dreams, but Germany was the land where the intellectual life was the most alive ; moreover she had inexhaustible treasure to study in the galleries, and she probably realized that she would find many a subject for her pen in the manners and customs of modern Ger- many. We have only to refer to Carlyle's Preface to the first edition of his translation of " Wilhelm Meister " to realize how little was known of German art and literature in this country ; in the interven- ing nine years — he wrote it in 1824 — he had done much to throw light on the subject, but it was still far from popular. Anna found the Germans extremely cordial. The men, she says, seemed to her more original than her own countrymen and the women more homely than their English sisters. Their habits were more 96 Germany domestic, sometimes disagreeably so, as when a grosse wdsche prevented her from seeing a con- scientious friend. The men were too careless in their dress to please her, a circumstance which she put down to the universal habit of frequenting " taverns " ; otherwise she has nothing but praise for her new acquaintances. She might well have been flattered at the recep- tion she received. Madame de Stael, whom she adored and to whom in her heart of hearts she at times likened herself, was treated as a negligible writer whose celebrated work " L'Allemagne " was already out of date, but her own works were known and appreciated and a German edition of the " Characteristics of Women " was just about to be issued at Leipzig. Besides the advantage of her literary reputation, Anna brought with her many letters of introduction, notably some from Mr. Robert Noel and his German wife, by means of which she made acquaintance with many interesting people. The following letter is from her sister Charlotte, who accompanied her to Germany, returning to England alone after a short stay in the Fatherland. Charlotte Murphy to Mrs. Murphy. Weimar, June 27, 1833. Dear Mamma, Papa, and Eliza,— VVe arrived here on Sunday evening from Gotha; I did not intend to write again so soon but 97 G Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships Nina has changed her plan. We do not stay here longer than to-morrow, when we set off for the Rhine. The reception here has been quite delightful; Nina has been received with open arms. Madame von Goethe, in particular, she is much charmed with ; she is the daughter-in-law of the poet, a most lively and delight- ful person, so very delightful that she is the cause of our departure. We accompany her to Bonn, where it is Nina's present intention to stay for some time. You will be pleased, as well as very much surprised, when I tell you that the first news that we learnt at Weimar was that a German translation of the " Characteristics of Women " will appear soon; it is published at Leip- zig; unfortunately from the first edition. . . . We have, as yet, travelled mostly with English people, many of whom came over in the packet from London with us ; we had delightful people who now make themselves agreable until I leave for England ; and it is probable that some of them may go as far as Rotterdam with me. We are to be at Bonn under the care of a Madame Schopenhauer,' a writer of German romances. I forgot to tell you that we have not seen Mr. Noel but he is spoken of in the highest terms by everybody. At the Table d'Hote, which I have found very pleasant, Nina and I amuse ourselves head-ifying "a la Burlowe " 2 ; I feel such constant excitement that I find it quite impossible to fix my attention to write to you. I have so many things to say I know not where to begin. My head feels quite confused with the con- stant variety of places and persons I have seen during the last journeys. . . . I am most affectionately yours, Charlotte Murphy. ' Johanna Schopenhauer, 1 766-1838. * Henry Burlowe (or Behnes), sculptor, died 1837. 98 Germany Anna Jameson to her sisters. Weimar, June 27, 1833. My dearest Louisa and Camilla,— . . . My reception here has been very cordial, my name is well known, for the English editions of some of my books are sold at Leipzig and a German edition of the last is annoimced; fortunately, I have just arrived in time to have some alterations made and to send the translator a copy of the last Edition. Madame von Goethe is a charming little woman full of talent and vivacity and I have accepted her invitation to accompany her to Frankfurt and the Rhine for several reasons, partly to improve my acquaintance with her and partly to be introduced, under her auspices, to the best society at Frankfurt and Bonn, which is of great consequence to me; she has interested herself in all my plans and has contrived to interest me particularly. She knows every distinguished person in Germany, France and England. . . . We are most anxious for letters ; how do you go on amid foreign and domestic broils? How is dear sweet Baby? How does the bust go on? Apropos — you must thank Harry Burlowe for my reception here, for I owe it in great part to his friend Noel. Pray tell him so ; Mr. Noel is very much respected. . . . Farewell and once more God bless you. Your affectionate Anna. Carlyle had called Saxony the Attica of Ger- many and Weimar its Athens ; although the greatest 99 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships names had passed away, there was still much literary activity and the memory of the giants of the in- tellect was over all. Anna met here Madame von Helvig, the friend of Schiller, and Madame de Wolzogen, his sister-in-law and biographer ; with Ottilie von Goethe,' the widowed daughter-in-law of the great poet, who still lived in his house with her two sons, she struck up a lasting friendship. With her she wandered over the now historic house, visiting the room where Goethe had worked, linger- ing beside the old chair in which he died, and finding a " melancholy propriety " in the bas-relief that hung over the door leading to his apartments, on which was represented the empty throne of Jupiter with an eagle cowering at its foot amongst spent thunderbolts . Ottilie von Goethe was a v^ery remarkable char- acter. She had managed to live in Goethe's house for fifteen years, in constant intercourse with his master mind, without, in any way, sacrificing her own individuality. She was a child of nature, ego- tistic, erratic, bright, with a deeper side to her character which only added to her charm. In earlier days, she used to preside over the poet's tea-table, where she entertained Thackeray among other English people, and her new friend found her ' Baroness Ottilie von Pogwisch married August von Goethe, who died in 1830. Her two sons were Walther Wolfgang, b. 18 18, composer of operettas and songs, and Wolfgang, b. 1820, jurist and poet. IOC Germany conversation " the most untiring thing I have ever enjoyed." Ottilie used to read Plutarch's Lives aloud to her father-in-law, and he delighted in her companionship ; but it is evident that she lived her own life, indolent, self-centred, careless even to the extent of leaving the great man to wrestle with domestic difficulties unaided by feminine tact. She had a real regard for Goethe, however, which she proved by nursing him through his last illness, when she sat by him, hour after hour, with his hands in her own ; she was one of those who heard his last cry " Light, more light ! " and it was she who placed her finger on her lips to signify that he slept, when the poet had sunk in death. Anna tells us that she afterwards refused a " splendid " offer from a publisher to write an account of his private life. " He told the world all he chose the world to know," she said, " and if not, is it for me— for me/— to fill up the vacancy by telling what, perhaps, he never meant to be told— what I owed to his boundless love and confidence? That were too horrible!" Through Ottilie, Anna made acquaintance with Adele Schopenhauer ' and Sybille Mertens Schaff- hausen, her two most intimate friends. It speaks much for her capacity for making herself loved that she became, in a very short time, the trusted friend of all three . Adele Schopenhauer was the daughter of the novelist, a lively old lady who refused to live with her son Arthur, because his pessimistic theories ' Adele Schopenhauer, 1 793-1849. lOI Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships kept her awake at night ; mother and daughter were now Hving at Bonn, where their house had become a Hterary centre, much as it had been during their residence at Weimar. Adele was the author of several novels, but her chief talent lay in the art of the silhouettist.' In her novel " Anna " she is sup- posed to have portrayed herself, Ottilie, and some other of her friends. Anna Jameson to her Parents. Bonn, July 30, 1833. My dearest Father and very dear kind Mother,— ... I left Frankfurt with much regret on the 19th ; it is an expensive place and I could not afford to stay longer, so I broke through all its fascinations, left my dear little friend Madame de Goethe and came here to be very quiet and studious for three weeks. I have an excellent German and work sometimes four or six hours a day ; till I have mastered my German Grammar, I could do nothing and I am determined not to be repelled or diverted from my German studies. I take all the fine, or rather the affectionate, compliments of my dear Father as they are meant; to be touched with them and to believe them sincere, is not to believe them true. I am not Madame de Stael, but would be well content witli half her greatness. I will confess, however, that though I have often dreamt of fame and sighed for it, I never knew before what it really is ; its advantages and its disadvantages. It is gratifying to find that I am no stranger in this foreign country, * A number of these have been reproduced recently, edited by Kroeber. 102 German y that my name and the opmions and sentiments I advo- cate are well known even to those who have not read my little books ; everywhere I find friends and people anxious to talk to me and to inform me on subjects of art and literature and to know in return what I think of them and their country etc., and all this is very pleasant. At a party given by Madame Mertens, one of the principal people here, (at her country house which is just opposite to the glorious Drachenfels) I met the celebrated Schlegel,' who was brought up to be introduced to me; when Mrs. Trollope ^ was here he avoided seeing her and the Germans generally seem quite afraid of her, as of a woman who is come, as they express it, to make a book — but I see with pleasure that there is a kindly feeling toward me which I should be a wretch to abuse. My principal friend here is Mdlle. Schopenhauer; you must ask Charlotte about her, and about every thing else ; she will tell you more in half an hour than I could put into a volume. We have just returned from spending a pleasant day at Petersdorf, the country house of the Mertens. There was the beautiful little hill of the Gottsberg, crowned with its ruins, and opposite the Drachenfels and the Rhine, like a beautiful lake spread out between them and bounding the garden and vineyards in which we walked. . . . It will give you some idea of the simplicity of manners yet prevailing here, when I tell you that the other night I supped en famille with Madame Mertens, who has one of the most beautiful houses here, 2 carriages, servants in proportion, etc., and her two eldest daughters laid the cloth, handed the wine etc. . . . ' August von Schlegel, 1 767-1845. ^ Frances TroUope, novelist, 1 780-1863. 103 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships Frankfurt, September 5, 1833. My dearest Father,— I have the opportunity of sending a letter free; I hope it will reach you safely and soon. I found at Manheim a letter from Canada; as usual, very well written, very cold and very vague. I do not think he is disappointed in his office; he has seen the Almas who are flourishing, he has stood godfather to Emily's youngest son. His books and papers have been ship- wreck 'd, which is a real misfortune and no small ex- pense; he has not seen the falls of Niagara; there is a party against him, but the popular opinion is for him, being considered a Whig official. No Solicitor General is yet appointed, so that a double weight of duty falls upon him and he was just going the circuit (of more than 1,000 miles); he says he will write to Henry Bate, when he knows more about the settlers — this is an Epitome of his letter. NoAv of myself — a few words; when I left dear Charlotte I returned to Bonn, but the voyage was horridly fatiguing and disastrous — we struck on a sand bank in the middle of the night and were eight hours in jeopardy — I mean the vessel — for it was the danger of shipwreck without the possibility of being drown'd. It was ten o'clock on Saturday night before I reached Bonn. I foimd my friends in great alarm about me and Madame Mertens, whose lively imagination pic- tured me as dying of the Cholera in some Dutch village, was on the point of sending off expresses to Dusseldorf, Nimeguen and Rotterdam, to enquire my fate. I re- mained at Bonn (with her) for some days longer than I intended. ... I became more intimate with Schlegel who was very amiable and entertaining and the attention 104 Germany and friendship of Madame Schopenhauer and Madame Mertens seemed to increase daily, so that I could with difficulty get away at last. ... I had been four or five days at Manheim and was going to start for Munich when I received a letter from Madame de Goethe which brought me here. She has been extremely ill; I am now staying with her. Tell Charlotte I found two letters from Madame de Goethe at Bonn, and she is the same amusing, affectionate Little frisk that we found her; she has been obliged to nurse me here for I have been much indisposed ever since my arrival and have not yet seen either the Johnstones or Madame Koch. My purpose is to return to Manheim as soon as I can get away, Monday at farthest, and thence I shall be off to Stuttgart and Munich as soon as possible. Madame de Goethe prefers me to spend the winter with her at Weimar, but I have not accepted the invi- tation, though I believe I shall return thither before my return to England. I regret very much that I did not see Lady Morgan ' and Mrs. Trollope who have both been here during my absence. I have read Lady Morgan's last book with pleasure. It has amused me very much while I have been ill here. The Germans are rather afraid of Mrs. Trollope, whom Madame de G. describes as vulgar in manner and appearance. "If you write your travels in Germany " said Schlegel to me at parting, " speak . . . whatever you may think." Could I do otherwise than think well and speak well of the Germans? I should be most ungrateful, for I meet friends everywhere and if my mind were quite at ease about home I should be really very happy; not a day passes in which I do not learn something new. ^ Lady Morgan, daughter of a strolling player, author of " The Wild Irish Girl," etc., 1 783-1859. 105 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships On board the steam boat coming up the Rhine, I met a benevolent looking old gentleman to whom I paid some disinterested attention, though I thought him a little prosy and something of a bore — and see how my virtue was rewarded ! it turned out to be Mr. J. who wrote a learned book about the production and con- sumption of the precious metals, who is an M.P. and is now travelling on some mission from Government. We became such good friends that he gave me a note of introduction to Munich — to one of the most dis- tinguished men there — Dr.Martius. I shall take with me ten or twelve letters altogether, so that I expect to pass my time very pleasantly. At Stuttgart I shall go to see old Dannecker ' and I take a letter to the Ambassa- dress Lady Disbrowe. I assure you, dear Papa, that it is much more amusing to travel as I do, than as we did with Sir Gerard Noel; though I must think of his kindness with gratitude and pleasure. I write in such a hurry to send my letter to the bag to-night, that I have omitted much I have to tell you, but wait a while, you will see what pleasant evenings we shall have, and what materials I shall bring for eternal talk. . . . ' Your affectionate child who loves you, Anna. Schlegel became very amiable before I left Bonn, and they tell me it was a complete conquest — pity I am married ! for certainly his stars and his ribbons are very becoming — and as for his wig, I think he only wears one in imitation of his Jupiter; in short, he ' Johann Heinrich von Dannecker, 1758-1841. 106 Germany talked of Madame de Stael and Bernadotte and Sanscrit till I fancied him quite captivating. . . . Ottilie's description of Lady Morgan and of her French address is amusing : — " Ach mein Gott ! if she would have said to me ' Cushlainachree ' I would have embraced her 1 " Walther is much improved and desires his compliments to Miss Charlotte. I believe he will go to Heidelberg with me, and then he and his mother return to Weimar to keep Wolf's birthday. . . . D. B. Murphy, Esq., 9, Bruton Street, Berkeley Square, London. At Stuttgart Anna visited the sculptor Dannecker in his studio, and was grieved to find how aged and altered he was, since she had first seen him three years ago. At that time, he had been engaged on the tomb of the Queen of Wurtemburg, and he had said musingly : " I grow old ; I have carved the effigies of three generations of poets and as many of princes " ; now he seemed sunk into a state of coma, except when he roused himself to talk a little about Schiller. Anna Jameson to D. B. Murphy. Munich, October 15, 1833. My dearest Father,— Munich is the most beautiful city I ever saw except Florence, but I have suffered so much here that 107 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships I shall leave it without regret. Dr. Martius tells me that almost all foreigners do, more or less ; the cold is so intense, at times, and the air so oppressive, that I long to fly across the Alps. In three days I could be at Milan, ill four at Venice ; the very idea of sunning myself under an Italian sky, though only for a few hours, is a great temptation, but all my plans and pursuits carry me to the North and I shall set off for Dresden in a few days, where I am told that I shall be fetee, that is, welcomed like a princess. You can follow me on the map from Munich to Salzburg — to Linz — to Prague — to Dresden. In " Visits and Sketches " Anna has much to say of Dresden. " Tieck ' is the literary colossus of Dresden," she v^rites ; " perhaps I should say of Germany." Besides making acquaintance with the famous critic who annotated his copy of her " Characteristics of Women," a book that she after- wards tried to buy when his library was sold, she struck up a friendship with the artist Retzsch,2 whose outline illustrations to the works of Shake- speare and Goethe she admired so much that she afterwards assisted him to have them reproduced in England. " I consider my introduction to Moritz Retzsch as one of the most memorable and agreeable incidents of my short sojourn at Dresden." In spite of new scenes and new faces, she was much taken up with Ottilie's love afTairs which ' Johann Ludvig Tieck, 17 73-1 85 3. ^ Moritz Retzsch, 17 79-185 7. 108 Germany began to give her grave concern. The tongue of scandal was busy with her name and she gave it only too good a cause, her haisons being appar- ently an open secret. Anna Jameson to Ottilie von Goethe. Dresden, November ()th. " Your letter dearest Ottilie which I found here on my arrival, has given me that mixture of pleasure and pain which you seem born to bestow on all who love you, in every form and in every degree. . . . "As to N. . . . I certainly shall not meddle with his intentions or his sentiments in any way — and be assured that I shall tell him nothing about le Capitaine. If that penchant is happily past, let it be buried in that churchyard among the others and for Heaven's sake dig the grave deep enough. I will come and help to sing its requiem, or I feel inclined to turn it into a Jubilate — forgive me ! . . . And blessings on Mr. Hayward, sent I am sure by an especial providence, to make a diversion in favour of reason and common sense ! When I see him in England I shall certainly feel inclined to embrace him. And Monsieur le Capitaine has his conge? Really? tout de bon? ... I love you dear Ottilie for that abandon, and would almost add that inconsequence where yourself are concerned; I respect and esteem in you that delicacy towards your friends which I do not often meet in others. My own nature is so reserved, that discretion is in me scarce a virtue, for my mind and heart— though always full, too full — seldom over- 109 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships flow, but were I to place confidence in anyone I would trust in you. Thank you for writing in English; if you sometimes fail in grammar, you never fail in grace and colloquial propriety of expression. . . . Torment your lovers as you will — torment yourself, if you must — but spare your friends. ..." no CHAPTER V OTTILIE VON GOETHE Anna returned from Germany sooner than she had intended, owing to her father's sudden illness. During her stay in England she lived in her parents' house in St. John's Wood, and seems to have been busily occupied. Notwithstanding her father's ill- ness and the extra responsibility which then fell on her to provide money for the home, she went a great deal into society. " For myself," she wrote to Mr. Noel, " I am leading that most abominable life— a life of laborious dissipation. I have suffered myself to be entangled in the machinery of society and am whirled round as if I were bound upon the wheel of a steam engine. But it shall not last ! Shall I whisper something to you? I indulge a hope of visiting Germany in the spring." "Visits and Sketches" came out in 1834, and Anna was also busy arranging for the publication of Retzsch's outline drawings in England ; this year was also memorable as the one in which her friend- ship for Lady Byron ' began, a friendship that was to prove one of the most epoch-making in her life. ' Lady Byron (Augusta Milbanke), 1 792-1860. Ill Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships The autumn found her in Berhn, whence she writes an amusing letter, giving a description of her visit to the Grand Ducal Court at Weimar. Anna Jameson to Louisa Bate. Berlin, September 15, 1834. ... I have a long letter from Eliza, who cer- tainly has, par la grace de Diea, the talent of writing most admirable letters. Her account of home is, on the whole, satisfactory, but I fear those dear girls will have a hard struggle thro' the winter; they must keep up their spirits and all, 1 am sure, will in the end be well. It would go much against my conscience if, while they were toiling at home, I was indulging in extravagances abroad, but so far from it, my expenses are much less than when in England. For instance, I am here at Berlin, a great City and one of the most expensive places in Germany; I am in one of the most beautiful streets, bearing the same relation to the best part of the town as Bruton Street in London. I pay 14 shillings a week (4 Thalers ^) for my lodging (a bed- room and a sitting-room including attendance) 4 gros. (or 6d.) every morning for my breakfast of coffee, cream and cakes, and i8d. for my dinner, including a glass of wine; my principal expenses consist in sight seeing, fees, and now and then coach hire; but alto- gether I do not spend more than £2 a week. When travelling of course that is more, but upon an average I spend less than in London. . . . Well, now to talk of myself, for Charlotte is very curious to hear of my proceedings at Weimar, as she knows the place and 112 Ottilie von Goethe people and perhaps it will amuse you all. I am not afraid of playing the egotist when I write to dear Home. You must know that when the Grand Duchess ' returned from Carlsbad, she sent me an invitation to appear at Court. I did not ask to be presented, nor much wish it. I was afraid I should have been nervous ; not from mauvaise honte but because there was considerable curiosity excited on my account and several persons present who were fond of me and anxious I should please. Before I set off, Ottilie (who was keeping her bed from indisposition) examined my dress, approved and dismissed me with her last instruc- tions : "Now Aima, remember that she is Imperial Highness and talk, talk, TALK ! ! do some credit to your own celebrity or I shall scold you ' fiirchterlich ' " (terribly). Madame de Pogwisch went with me and Countess Henkel von Donnestomarch, as Grand Mistress, presented me and, as I am a great pet of hers, it seemed to be with peculiar pleasure. When we were assembled in the saloon of the Palace — there were few persons, for it was not a Court day — I was the only person presented except an English gentleman. There were present the Countess Fritsch, first lady of Honour, the Maids of honour, the Grand Chamberlain, the Mareschal de Cam, the Grand lawyer or Master of Horse and Baron von Linher — I forget who else; when we had waited about ID minutes, the Grand Duchess entered and Countess Henkel immediately led me up to her and introduced me. Then began the usual royal common places as how I liked Germany? hoped Weimar would be agreeable to me, that she would have the pleasure of seeing me often and so forth; then some questions ' The Grand Duchess of Saxe-Weimar Eisenach. 113 H Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships about England and my journey; all the conversation was of course in French. I said I understood her Imperial Highness spoke and understood English perfectly, but she said she would not venture to speak English with me; she is rather deaf and speaks very quick and inarticulately, so that I was under much disadvantage. However it seems I made a favourable impression; I was kept to dinner — the Grand Duchess seated me next herself and I did not find that this propinquity to an Imperial Highness took away my appetite, for I was extremely hungry. After dinner we returned to the Saloon first, the Chamberlain and Mareschal de Cour leading the way, then her Imperial Highness, alone, then we all followed. After some conversation, the Grand Duchess curtsied to us and retired and we all went home. I was told afterwards that my French was particularly approved of; this was on Friday the 29th, I think. On Sunday I was asked to an evening party to meet the Duke of Cam- bridge; on Tuesday to dinner; being ill I was unable to go and I wrote to the Countess Henkel afterwards to express my regret and say I was to leave Weimar on Saturday. The Grand Duchess sent me a dinner invitation for Friday, which I accepted. I should tell you that my note was shewn to her Highness and she insisted on keeping it; it was in French. On bidding me adieu she kindly urged my return and said she regretted I should not see her children (ses enfants) at Berlin — alluding to her Daughters, one of whom is the wife of Prince William and the other of Prince Charles of Prussia. So ended my court Honours, but I should tell you that this Grand Duchess is really a distinguished and admirable woman, active, benevolent, and extremely 114 Ottilie von Goethe accomplished; she must have been, in her youth, very nearly handsome, if not quite so. She is more like her Mother, the late Empress of Russia, than any of her other children. I came to Berlin for the sake of seeing" the annual exhibition of pictures, but am unable to make any stay, as I have promised Ottilie to go to Vienna with her and we are to set off from Weimar the 25th. I am working away here to get thro as much as possible, for fear some accident should prevent my return, and I am so dead tired I can scarce write this — so you must excuse all faults and omissions. Farewell dearest and God bless you. Kiss darling for me. Anna. Anna Jameson to Mrs. Murphy. tJBER Rotterdam. Vienna, December 31, 1834. A letter from you my dear sweet Mamma is indeed a favour ! with what delight and gratitude I read it is not to be expressed. I do not know what may be in the Edinburgh Review, but what is all the fame and all the praise in the world, or that the world could give, com- pared to the first few lines of your dear affectionate letter ! All day I carried it in the bosom of my gown and I would not have exchanged the sensations with which it warmed my heart, to be Madame de Stael herself in all her glory. Thank you for all the news you send me, you mention everyone who is interest- ing to me. I thought of you all on Christmas Day and joined the pleasant circle round dear Frank's and 115 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships Camilla's hospitable table. Madame de Goethe and I took compassion on a few agreeable English who are here and gave them an English Christmas dinner, as well as we could manage it. We had excellent Ragout-soup, Carp from the Danube (baked) a turkey- roasted (not bigger than the wing of a Norfolk turkey) with sausages — but sausages without Saur Kraut being a thing inconceivable to a German cook, the Saur Kraut came up accordingly. Then we had an excellent tongue, and a capital dish of mixed fruits en compote, but alas ! no plumb pudding ! Xmas day is not the great day in Germany, but the evening before, when it is the custom to exchange sentiments and presents, and this to an extent you can scarce imagine. The presents which Madame de Goethe had prepared for her children, family, servants on that evening cost her at least 150 or 200 florins. The custom is to display these gifts on an illuminated table, with a fir-tree planted in the middle, to which are suspended abundance of wax lights, sugar plums and little toys and trinkets. Noel, who was at Prince Metternichs that night, says that the presents etc. which covered the table were worth at least 10,000 florins. Madame de Goethe gave me a beautiful head of her father in law, engraved on a fine cornelian, which had been done from life and a gift from him to herself. This of course pleased me exceedingly. After leaving her safe in bed (for she is a miserable invalid at present) I went to hear the midnight Mass at St. Stephens, which is perhaps the finest Gothic church in the world ; it was illuminated with thousands of wax lights, crowded with thousands of people and the Christmas morning was ushered in with a peal of grand music from a full orchestra, the 116 Ottilie von Goethe great organ swelling above all the rest and rolling through the aisles like thunder — all the people cross- ing themselves and falling on their knees. A pretty considerable degree of love making goes on upon these occasions, as 1 have been told ; but I cannot speak from experience. I stood by the tomb of Prince Eugene and watched the scene with great interest. I have not, however, enjoyed my stay at Vienna, nor am I likely to do so. Ottilie is obliged to return to Weimar the ist of February. Vienna, February 2, 1835. My dearest Mother and dearest Father and dear good people all ! I have been meditating a letter to you for these three weeks, but my plans were so uncertain that I deferred writing to you from day to day till I could speak of the future ; all I can now say is, that I have no intention of leaving Vienna during this month, but about the 4th or 5th of March we commence our journey northwards. At present we find that it is utterly impossible and I confess I do not feel any wish to leave Vienna yet. The weather has been horribly severe and I caught cold going suddenly out of the heated rooms into the air ; so that during this last fortnight I have kept my room almost constantly. I have been out only twice. I am making here many interesting acquaintances and you will perhaps be amused to hear that my most intimate friend is a sovereign Princess — the Princess of Hohenzollern, who was a princess of Courland ; another of my most inti- mate friends is Madame d'Arnetti, once a celebrated 117 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships actress of Vienna, now a happy wife and mother ; a woman of excellent reputation and full of talent. Another of my friends is Caroline von Pichler/ one of the best of the German female writers and a dear good old woman ; her mother was chamber -woman to Maria Theresa, and a friend of Metastasio, so that I am in the very midst of all I want — only I am in despair that I have not the Memoirs of Maria Theresa with me, that I might make some additions and alterations. ... I feel like a sponge, drinking in all around me ; the worst is, the want of money, or rather the want of money enough — a very general complaint. I have just enough to live and go into society and visit the Galleries ; enough for my daily expenses but nothing beyond and this is very hard, when I am sur- rounded with many things which I may never again be able to obtain — for instance, only to mention one thing, the beautiful Bohemian Linen. I long so to bring some to Mamma — very fine at a florin an ell — a florin is (here) two shillings. It is quite certain that in the midst of my travels and all the amusement and excitement 1 enjoy, I learn self-denial and many hard lessons besides . I was present the other day at a very striking scene — the marriage of an EngUshman with a young lady of Vienna, the Countess Julie Szechenyi. There were present about 50 persons of the first Austrian and Hungarian families. I was with the Princess Hohen- zollern and the Countess Zichy ; the Bridegroom was Mr. Parry, one of the sons of that Mrs. Parry whom I liked so much in England. Another curious scene was a Bal-masque at the Court and another of a ' Caroline von Pichler, 1769-1843. 118 Ottilie von Goethe different sort was a Ball of the Bourgeousie, which I must say appeared to me both the merriest and the most desirous of the two. I have not lately visited any of the Galleries in consequence of the extreme severity of the weather, but at the Bourg-Theatre (which is the Court Theatre of Vienna) I had a great treat the other night — the representation of one of the famous German Tragedies, Schiller's Don Carlos, given in a style of which we have no idea in England ; the people were dissatisfied because one character was not well played ! On the whole Vienna pleases me. One thing which renders it most striking to a foreigner, is that it has remained stationary, while all things have moved around it ; the people go on just as in the reign of Maria Theresa and they are apparently a very contented, good-natured set of people as you can imagine. The old Emperor is exceedingly beloved. Every night that I go to the Bourg 1 see him and the Empress and some part of their family in their box and, turn which way I will in the streets, I see nothing but Placards announcing that a Ball will be given in such and such a place, or some similar amusement and besides Sunday which is here a real holiday, there are at least five or six other Holidays in a month when all shops are shut, all business suspended, all theatres open and nothing thought of but amusement. The Government is strict beyond conception and there are no disorders, no open violations of decorum ; though I am told and believe that this is the most dissipated capital in Europe. . . . At the same time the degree of depravation at London and Paris, is here quite unknown. Now God bless you my dear dear Father, Mother and sisters. I am always the same, your affectionate Anna. 119 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships Anna Jameson to D. Brownell Murphy. My dearest Father,— I have just heard from Strangways that a cornice will probably leave Vienna to-night or to- morrow, so I seize the welcome opportunity to scribble you a few lines. I am glad you have been amused by anything in my letters ; I wish I could send you some more amusement, but at present my life is so quiet. Vienna is empty and I am working so hard, that no amusement comes to seek me and I have no time to go and seek amusement. I had, however, what Frank would call a bit of a lark yesterday. I went with a party, not indeed very fine or elegant or titled, but very goodnatured, to try the ascent of the Leopolds- berg — my greatest undertaking since my illness. You must know that the Leopoldsberg is a high precipitous hill, or rather a little mountain (as we should think it, being perhaps four or five times as elevated as Highgate) which is to the North west of Vienna ; it is celebrated in the history of the country, being the ancient stronghold and seat of the old Margraves of Austria, God knows how long ago. We drove in carriages to the foot of the hill and then ascended on Donkeys ; as we ascended, the most glorious view broke upon us, sometimes seen through breaks between the hills, sometimes lost and then opened again in another direction, varying at every moment. When we had reached the highest point, the whole splendid Panorama was before or rather around us ; the Danube dividing into numerous branches loses here much of its size and grandeur, but forming hundreds of Islands of every possible size and form, it assumes 1 20 Ottilie von Goethe a singular and characteristic appearance. To the North we had Moravia and then the last of the Carpathian hills running eastward to the castle of Presburg in Hungary ; the Monatberg and Town of Kloster- Neuburg, washed by the Danube ; t;o the South East the Great City with its vast suburbs and the spire of St. Stephens piercing the heavens— ^then beyond, the Danube uniting its divided waters and rolling through the field of battle of Asperne and lost in the plains of Hungary, and to the south, the Styrian and Corinthian Mountains, the Schneeberg, snow topped, bounding the landscape. It was altogether a splendid scene, splendid in itself and splendid to the imagination, and I wished for you and thought of you, my dear Father, for you would have enjoyed it ; to add to the effects, there was a thunderstorm gathering on one side, while the moon was reigning on the other, but pale as if afraid of being swallowed up in the wild sulphurous clouds which were gathering round her and in truth we returned home in the midst of the most vivid lightning and most tumultuous hurricane I can remember. You know I am not afraid of lightning and never was, but last evening it seemed to run along every nerve, brought on a slight relapse of those spasms which are now my horror and made me faint away. To-day I am better, but not allowed to stir from my Sopha (I would get out of bed to write to you) so that I am painfully warned of the necessity of Prudence until I am stronger. I remain here, in my little lodging, to write quietly and as soon as I have my MS in some order, I will set off for Weimar, and thence to England. The Countess Thun has been here with all her family — I am sure you remember Franz Thun whom I brought 121 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships one day to see you? he has two brothers almost as amiable as himself and two sisters of whom I do not know much as yet ; but with the lady mother I am charmed, she seems so full of heart and kindness. They hav^e been to me full of attentions and while the young men were here they came out to me almost every day. I am asked to spend part of the Summer at their old Castle of Setchen— you will find the spot between Prague and Dresden— and as it is not far out of my way to Weimar I intend to go there at least for a few days ; it is an aspect of German life I had not yet seen and, if it were otherwise without interest, I like them all so much that the idea gives me pleasure. Pray my dear Father, can you form the most distant guess at the reasons of Jameson's conduct? it is near three months since the date of his last letter ! I hurry to a conclusion because I wish to write to Mr. Stephens, the under Colonial Secretary. So fare- well my dear Father and all that home circle who live in my heart. Anna.. I have received dear Camilla's letter — if possible I will answer it by this packet and if not I will find some other opportunity. Countess Fuchs has just arrived from Bohemia and wants to take me to Ischel with her ; it will cost me nothing and I feel much tempted — it is the very Bath to which my doctor ordered me and everyone says it will do me good. You will find Ischel on the map to the east of Salzburg. How does this burning weather agree with dear Mamma? I fancy her panting in her garden, looking like one of her own roses. How have the holidays 122 Ottilie von Goethe gone off? have Eliza and Charlotte had any amuse- ment? and have you not been happy to see more of them? I can get no English books. Fanny Kemble's journal I have not read — I am anxious to see why every one is so angry. Anna Jameson to Mrs. Murphy. Traunkirchen {A little village on the Gmunden-See), August 17, 1835. This little villainous sketch, done by candle-light, is an attempt to give you an idea of the spot in which I write now, this 17th of August, your Birthday my dearest Mamma and dear good Sister Eliza I a day, which I shall ever and every where keep holy — God bless you both ! I know very well you will think of me to-day and you will feel that my heart is with you as indeed it is, but that you may understand something of my movements I must tell you some of my history. I was ordered to the mountains for a few weeks to do nothing but keep quiet, and take cold baths ; so I came to Gmundan on the Gmunden See. If you look on the map of Germany for Vienna you must imagine me travelling from Vienna to Linz ; at Linz I took a little carriage with one horse which brought me to Gmunden, just 42 miles to the south of Linz, at the head of a beautiful lake. I found that an English gentle- man I knew at Vienna was at Traunkirchen, a little wild picturesque village on the west shore of the lake, about 6 miles farther. I took a boat to pay them (that is Banfield and his wife) a visit ; I found near them a little deserted cottage, which I got furnished from a 123 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships little Inn and hither 1 came bag and baggage. I have two nice little rooms, a good bed, a little garden with a summer house, and attendance from the Inn, all for 30 Kreutzer or about 13 pence a day ; my eating and drinking cost perhaps as much more, so that I am really living in a kind of earthly paradise for half a crown a day, all expenses included, except boating, in which I am rather extravagant. Just behind my cottage, which is on the very edge of the Lake, there is a little nook where I plunge every morning and frighten the fishes ; I then take a little walk among the rocks and try to sketch now and then. I have made some scratches which are not so very bad and will serve to give dear Papa an idea of the sort of scenery about me. The lake is about 9 miles in length and about 2 miles in breadth, but the mountains around are on such an enormous scale that the lake looks sometimes as if one could throw a stone across it. The water is cle,ar as chrystal ; it is subject, like the other mountain lakes, to sudden storms and then it looks magnificent. I rowed across the lake yesterday, with the Banfields, to visit a waterfall on the opposite side ; just as we had re-embarked we saw one of these tremendous storms rolling down the valley (which you see behind the village in the back- ground) while the lightning seemed to dart from cliff to cliff and glided along the surface of the lake — we ran our boat in a hurry under a rock and ran up to a miller's cottage where we found shelter. In another moment the waves were white with foam, the wind rushed over the lake as if driven by some tremendous power, the thunder echoed from mountain to mountjain and the lightning falling on the summit of a mountain 124 Ottilie von Goethe opposite, the Sonnenberg, set fire to the pines which smoked for some hours afterwards— it was altogether a splendid scene. The fury of the storm was soon over, but as the rain continued, we amused ourselves with the miller and his wife — rummaged all their little cottage, made them sing for us and had, in short, a good deal of amusement. The people, though primitive, are not rude, nor very poor, not sordidly so ; everywhere the cottages are clean and neat, but the women, spoiled by hard work, are prematurely old and their dress hideous . I have often mentioned to you in my letters the Countess Zichy as one of my kindest friends — she is at Ischl which is nearly 20 miles from this ; on hear- ing of my intended arrival, she wrote to Banfield (who had been her English master) to desire he would see I wanted nothing and wanted to know my plans about going to Ischl. I wrote to her to thank her, but declined going to Ischl (which is the Cheltenham of Vienna). I feared being drawn into some expense but I said that I would meet her at the other end of the lake on the road to Ischl. The day after she received my note, she set off at 7 in the morn- ing and, with her Sister-in-law Countess Frangoise Szechenyi, came over here to see me. I had bathed in the lake and was sitting among the rocks in my dressing gown, never dreaming of such visitors, when Banfield came scrambling up to me. I had the key of my cottage so they could not get in and he had stationed them in my little summer house, with some fruit and bread before them, till I came. Down I ran and I shall never forget the countenance of the good Zichy, as she stood on the steps of the summer house, 125 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships with her arms extended and her countenance quite radiant with pleasure, affection and every kindly feel- ing. Then began' caresses and reproaches about stay- ing here alone and so forth. They were so amused by my little cottage and all my arrangements and make- shifts, that to fine ladies in search of a new sensation it must have been " une benediction." I have promised to go once to Ischl on my way to Salzburg, spend two days with them and be taken about to see the magnificent lakes in the neighbourhood and I go on Wednesday or Thursday. I cannot say I have yet gained much strength with all my boating, bathing and scrambling, but it will come, for my spirits are better — only I cannot eat yet ; bread and milk and a little fruit are the only things I taste with appetite. I began my letter in the morning ; when I went out I found my new friends, the Banfields, had prepared a little fete for me in honour of Mamma's birthday. A boat was ready, the awning hung round with large garlands of flowers mingled with boughs of the moun- tain ash ; another boat followed filled with the women of the village in their holiday dresses, who sang in chorus the national songs such as you have heard the Tyrolese sing in London, but sounding very different when heard in the open air, among the rocks and mountains and accompanied by the dash of the oars ; it was really delicious and made me almost shed tears thinking of you all and feeling so alone on such a day. Thus we paraded in a sort of triumph to Ebensee, about 4 miles off, and there set off to visit a romantic lake among the mountains. I have no room to add more than another " God bless you all, amen ! " Direct to Weimar. I hope Henry has received my last letter 126 Ottilie von Goethe enclosing one for Jameson. Let me have a long letter giving me an account of the 17 th and how you spent it and how dear Papa is and Louisa and all ! Anna had been two years in Germany when Robert Jameson wrote asking her to join him, as soon as possible, in Canada. The summons, so long expected, filled her with despair. Her life in Germany had been extremely happy ; she had been made so much of that she frequently declared her head was turned. In Weimar, where she went after leaving Traunkirchen, she was the guest of Ottilie, who treated her like a " pet sister " ; and here, amongst other distinguished people, she met Alexander von Humboldt. The thought of exchanging foreign travels and the congenial society of London for existence in the unknown wilds of a strange country, appalled her. Her motive in obeying the summons was probably more connected with a desire to regularize her financial affairs than with any idea of building up a family life in Toronto. It must have cost her a real pang to leave Ottilie, for whose child she had stood god-mother, and for whose well-being she was trying to use her growing influence in Weimar. " Everything to Ottilie's ad- vantage has been spread by us under the general expression, ' Mrs. Jameson has written it,' " wrote one of her correspondents while she was still at Vienna. It is evident that Ottilie had become very 127 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships dear to her and that she was willing to give up much for her sake. Anna Jameson to Ottllie von Goethe. London, Jtme 27, 1836. You are an angel sometimes and I love you when you justify my love for you ! and how I pity you ; outwardly in a false position, inwardly devoured by a malady, a madness, I can call it nothing else : consumed, not by love, there would be some sense in that, but by the desire to be loved, the appetite for exciting and being excited. . . . Forgive me, forgive me, my own O. but when I read your letter in which you begin by showing me how far you are from reason and composure, when I find not one word of any of your children, and a great deal about those horrid men who have destroyed your happiness and mine, — I see there is no hope — what pain, what fear, what shame overpowers me 1 Laniitle et [sic] bien fade apres Vamour. ... If I must give up the world, let the world go — it is not necessary for me, you are ! It does not need me, you do I If I find there is a possibility of living with content in that place [Canada] and if the world treats you hardly, if you find difficulties about your child, will you come to me there? If I can arrange the means and a home for you with me or near me? And if the contrary should happen (as is most likely) and I find that I cannot stay there, will you patiently wait for me some months and take care of yourself till I rejoin you? .Which I will do if I live J 128 CHAPTER VI A NEW WORLD In September 1836, Anna set sail, with many mis- givings, for America. The start was not auspicious. Anna Jameson to Mrs. Murphy. Off St. Helens, Isle of Wight, Wednesday. My dearest Mother, — It seems almost a selfish thing to write to you in the state in which I am, but after the dreadful gale on Saturday and Sunday last it will be a satisfaction to you all, I believe, to know that I am at least safe ; we came on board on Friday night (the 7th) and next morning sailed with a side wind — we were then off St. Helens — it came on a violent gale ahead as the sailors say. We were buffeted down the channel and then buffeted up again and after two days and nights of horrible suffering we were again off St. Helens and there we have remained. I have suflfered dreadfully and do not get over it like the other passengers, who have all been very well since we have been at anchor ; till yesterday evening I have never touched food since Friday morning last and am of course very much exhausted and so low and dejected 129 I Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships that it requires the strongest effort not to go ashore with my letter and return to you all ; so much do the thoughts of all I have left, and all to which I go, oppress ,my mind. However I suppose I must go through with it. There is nothing in the society around me to console or interest me for a moment. There is a large family of Jews, rich people from the Minories, a mother, three daughters, a son and a son-in-law (and the daughters sing duetts) ; five children from 2 months old to 5 years ; in all 23 people who eat, drink, chatter from morning to night within a few feet of my bed ; there is apparently much good nature but nothing else ; that however is something and, in the very weak state I now am, I felt its value when I left my berth for the first time yesterday evening. . . . Pray write to me soon — it seems an age since I left you — if you see Mrs. Procter tell her I have just taken out her beautiful work, but as yet my weak dazzled eyes cannot do much — my best love to her. Is it not hard to have suffered so much before the voyage is even begun, for no one considers that it is even begun till we have passed the Lizard lights. God bless you my dear father and my dear mother — and dear sisters all — I hope you will receive this but am not sure, so I omit many things I could wish to say ; once more, God bless you. ,We are to make an attempt to sail to-day, wind South West; most contrary. Off the Motherbank, Portsmouth, Friday, October \^th. I tremble to think, my dearest Father and Mother and sisters, that you may have heard of the disasters 130 A New World which have occurred along the coast and are in anxiety about my fate. Thank God, I am safe. I wrote to you a few Unes on Wednesday to be put in the two- penny post, but luckily they will not have reached you. I told you, in that letter, that we had embarked on Friday evening and on Saturday morning (the 8th) attempted to proceed down the Channel, but were driven back by the gale and anchored on Monday morning again at St. Helens. During all this time I was almost insensible to every thing but intense suffering ; I think one could hardly suffer more and live. 1 wrote you this on Wednesday and added that the Captain had resolved to sail again that evening — luckily, most providentially, the captain was overruled by the Pilot on board ; he had sufficient candour and caution to give way — the same evening came on the most furious gale we have yet experienced. It was perfectly tremendous ; though at anchor, we were pitched and tossed like a nutshell and the vessel was in imminent danger of breaking from her moorings, so the Captain confessed to me yesterday but that even in such a case though the vessel might have been damaged or lost we should have been saved. I was dreadfully ill all night and yesterday suffered from exhaustion as much as ever — to-day the weather is more moderate and I am better, only weak, nervous and giddy ; several vessels have perished, and one (I shiver to think of it) about six miles from St. Helens, was dashed to pieces ; she was returning from the West Indies with passengers on board and all perished with the crew ; only 3 sailors escaped. You may imagine how thankful we were that on that dreadful night we were in comparative safety ; there is no cause 131 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships for apprehension on my account, for I see that the Captain is cautious as well as skilful and will not again attempt to sail till the weather is settled and the wind changed, of which there are indications already. As to the society around me, all are respectable people, but of the commonest class ; there is a Jewish family, apparently Shopkeepers, going out to Cincinatti, a Jewish Bride and Bridegroom, Mr. and Mrs. Solomon Moses, the wife of the son of Saunders (my bookseller) a pretty little woman with her two infants, the eldest not 1 8 months, 3 other children under the care of a maiden aunt — one of which, a delicate mismanaged boy, begins to scream and shriek every morning about five or six o'clock and screams perseveringly till his father gets up and whips him — we have this scene regularly ; of the other people I can say nothing except a fat goodnatured woman from Quebec, very like Mrs. Glover in some of her characters. To be thirty days (at best) with this society appears to me sometimes worse than seasickness, storms or anything in the world and to think that in 24 hours I could escape all this ! and be with you safe and well ! the temptation almost makes my head turn ; yet why give myself airs with people on whom I am to descend for any particle of comfort and sympathy I am to expect for the next six weeks? All treat me with civility and respect and with this I must be content ; sometimes in the midst of all, a sense of the ludicrous and the grotesque comes across me and I could laugh if I were not too utterly miserable. Last night Mrs. Solomon Moses and Miss Matilda Levy got my guitar and amused the company by playing on it ; my poor guhar I ! Well, I believe I must stop, for my head will bear no more stooping. . . . Every- 132 A New World one on board has some appurtenance — mother or sister or husband or relation or friend ; I am quite alone among them in every sense. May God bless you all and send me once again to you in safety to find you all well. Believe me I will not again in a hurry trust to these unstable winds and waters. I kiss you a thousand times and bless you from my heart. Anna. A little note written to Ottilie on her birthday shows how often her thoughts must have turned to her during the tedious voyage across the Atlantic. She had been occupied with her friend's concerns even in the midst of her preparations to leave Eng- land, having brought over to London her sister, Baroness Ulrike von Pogwisch ; like everything that had to do with Ottilie, the arrangement had been one of mixed experiences. Ulrike was as lively as her sister, without having the latter's attaching qualities, and Anna was evidently at her wits' end to know what to do with her. Hay ward, who had been an angel, was now a serpent, who gossiped when he should have held his tongue ; Ulrike was a headstrong young lady who insisted on having her own way. Anna had been a good deal vexed about the whole affair, but nothing changed her devotion to Ottilie. On October 31st she wrote: " I can only say that I love you and bless you and think of you ever, and if I were going to die and 133 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships had but two pulses left to my heart, one would be for you, my own dear Ottilie ! " Anna Jameson to her parents and sisters. New York, November 29, 1836. My dearest Father, Mamma, and sisters all ! You will be surprised to find I am still here and yet more surprised to hear that I have no tidings of Jameson — not one word. I am — just as I was writing these lines in came a letter from Jameson which had been sent to the British Consul ; it is like all his letters, very well written, very plausible, very kind, agreeing to everything. I shall set off immediately and have a world of business and packing up to be done. I had a short but sharp illness of three days, owing to the effects of my voyage and worry and suspense, but except this I have been well. The enthusiasm about me here is very great, even to a troublesome degree, for I have more engagements than I can possibly keep, more visitors than I can see and more devoted admirers than I can count. I have made an agreement about a new edition of the Characteristics which is likely to produce 500 dollars ; the two last copies which remained were sold by a bookseller here for 1 2 dollars each — 3 times the original price — such has been the run after my books. I am dying for news from my dear Home and feel too truly and deeply that I am going to Toronto with far more distrust and fear than confidence and hope. If I could believe all that Jameson writes, I might suppose I was going into an Elysium ; but the puzzling thing is, to recon- 134 A New World cile his words and his actions, what he is and what he seems ; he is quite past my comprehension. Charles Augustus Davis, the author of Major Downing's letters, and his very pleasing wife, are among my best friends. I dined a few days ago with the widow of the celebrated de Witt Clinton. She is quite a character and amused me exceedingly ; she gave me a wampum bag which had been a present to her from an Indian chief. In the way of presents, my table is covered with books — presentation copies — poems — and the Lord knows what. I had a long visit yesterday from Washington Irving ' who has a most benevolent and agreeable countenance and talks well. I send dear Father some American newspapers which may perhaps amuse him ; this is all I can send for the present. ' God bless you all. . . . Write soon for God's sake ! , Toronto, New Year's Day. My dearest Father, Mamma, and sisters all,— May God bless you and me and grant that on this next year I may be with you ; may we prosper though separated, may we be all preserved to each other to meet again. I imagine you all assembled either round Mamma's or Henry's hospitable table and I know you think of me. ... In this place all days are alike ; Christmas Day and New Year's day are only distinguished by especial dullness and gloom caused by the thoughts of home and the more than usual still- ness, as all are making holiday who are so blessed as ^ Washington Irving, 1 783-1859. 135 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships to have family and friends. Here I am as completely isolated as if I were in a desolate island, God knows where ; but I must give you some account of my journey from New York, only observing, first, that this is the first opportunity I have had of sending a letter and packet safely, and secondly, that I am in despair to have no letters, not a line since I left you from any one in the world that I care for. . . . Well, but for my travels, which may perhaps amuse dear Papa ; I left New York on the 6th, very sad and with many misgivings, for Jameson remained still in- explicable and I had no letter in answer to mine written on my first arrival ; but 1 had also no money left and I thought the letter had miscarried, so off I set, accompanied to the last moment by every kind atten- tion and every mark of interest. I had a convoy of 6 friends to the Steamboat, lingering till the paddles began to splash and loading me with letters, advice, comforts and kind words ; the enormous boat con- tained more than 400 passengers and the scene was very curious. Unfortunately there was no day boat. We set off after a glowing sunset and I sat or walked on deck as long as I could, to escape the stifling air of the ladies' cabin where 89 women were stuffed pell- mell — some in berths, some on the ground, on chairs, and with children sprawling about. I threw myself on to my berth in despair and slept while we were passing, in the dark, through some of the grandest scenery in the world, the shores of the Hudson and the Catskill mountains. I had taken my passage to Albany, but the Captain had stuck up a notice that he would only go as far as the ice permitted. When we got a little beyond Catskill and about 6 miles below Hudson, 136 A New World we encountered ice in great quantities ; it was now daylight, a bright but intensely cold morning. At length the expanse presented only an icy surface but the gigantic boat, armed for the purpose with an iron prow, kept on crashing her way through the ice which closed behind so as to scarcely leave a track a few yards from the stern ; it was a strange and beautiful sight. We reached Hudson at 9 and there were obliged to stop as it was freezing powerfully and the captain feared being frozen up at Albany. We and our luggage were tossed out without ceremony and I joined a party in taking a carriage on to Albany, with a waggon for my baggage ; we jolted the 30 miles in about 8 hours, through a fine country, but wintry looking and thinly inhabited. At Albany I met a person known to Mr. Jameson, a Mr. Percival Ridout, some distant rela- tion of the Mr. Ridout who married Mathilda Bramley. This most goodnatured and goodlooking young man took me and baggage under his protection and proved a most efficient Cavalier ; he had not much cultivation or manners, but he had great activity and cheerfulness and was quite unassuming — though as for conversation there was none. From Albany to Utica we went by the rail road 90 miles in 6 hours, with 8 carriages each containing 24 persons. From Utica we came on to Rochester, in 36 hours. It was horrid travelling ; the Canal was frozen, the stage coaches are the most extra- ordinary clumsy, ill looking, mean looking things you can imagine, holding 9 persons, 3 in a row — but the coaches suit the roads, on which certainly the " Tally ho " or the " Brighton age " would have capsized in five minutes. Such a road I did never yet behold, or rather I was destined to see them " before they were 137 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships made." I recollect we were once 6 hours going 9 miles and with 4 horses, often for hours through half burnt forests, the blackened stumps of enormous trees just seen above the snow ; a dismal prospect ! I had various specimens of American manners which amused me. I remember once, in the middle of the night, as we went lumbering and jolting along in darkness, fear and misery, some of the luggage fell from the top (or as they call it the deck) of the coach. We stopped and a gentleman next me put his head out of the window, asking what was the matter? to which the coachman or driver replied : " Don't you stand jabber- ing there, you ! but come and lend a hand to heave these things aboard, I can't stand here in the road all night I guess." The gentleman, not discomposed, jumped out and lent a hand and on my expressing my astonishment at the indescribable insolence of the driver, he laughed exceedingly and said that it had not struck him, that the man was a very civil decent fellow, only a little cross with the cold and the road, which was quite natural. We did not sleep at Rochester, but hired a carriage and came on at once to Lewiston, 40 miles in 28 hours, crossed the Niagara in a Ferry in the dark and slept at Queenston, for I could go no further ; 1 was quite ill and done up. The next morning (Monday 13) we got two spring carts of the country for selves and baggage and just reached the town of Niagara in time to go by the steam vessel — our good luck was the greater as it was the last trip of the season, the bays and harbours beginning to freeze, I had written to Alma the night before, inviting myself to breakfast, but that was impossible. I just saw Alma for a moment on board the steamer ; he 138 A New World embraced me most warmly, he is not quite so juvenile in face and figure, but in other respects quite the same — the same good fellow, overflowing with genuine Irish heart and soul. From Niagara to Toronto by land is loo miles and two days journey over horrid roads, by the lake 36 miles ; the water was as rough as I have often seen it at sea. After an hour of very melancholy thoughts and feelings, I threw myself down quite ex- hausted and slept till I was told we were at Toronto. My reception was rather chilling ; there was no one to meet me, though J. was in daily expectation of my arrival. I was still obliged to my Cavalier. On my arrival at the house, it was worse still ; all looked cold, comfortless, the fires out, or nearly so, a bedroom had been half prepared for me, on the unmade bed, things were piled. The servants looked half surprised, half alarmed and I felt as miserable as possible. I put, however, a good face on the matter and when J. returned he seemed at least glad to see me. The new house which he is building, from the plans I have seen, must be a nice comfortable little place. I remarked that there was no arrangement made for a friend — no place to put Alma and Emily if they came over, or any friend who might stray this way, but I thought the omission characteristic. Snow came on the day or two after my arrival and the whole country is one wild, white, flat, dreary waste^the sledges or sleighs coming in from all directions — for great is the joy when the sleighing begins — it being the only time when the roads are tolerably passable and wood and provisions cheaper. My household consists of a respect- able widow Mrs. Scott, who is cook and housekeeper, but unluckily knows no more cooking than I do, but 139 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships she is an honest good soul recommended by Mrs. Hepburn so I make no objections ; my maid is a tidy good-natured girl, the daughter of an emigrant farmer, who, she tells me, is living in the Bush, that is, has taken land in the forest to clear and settle about 8 miles off. Her name is Ursula— and there is a foot- man, a good sort of harum scarum lad of nineteen or twenty. They all seem to like me much now and look well satisfied with my government. On my arrival the Governor sent his secretary with a polite message of congratulation, expressing his regret that Etiquette did not allow him to visit in person the ladies of the place, but he hoped I would find some grievances to complain of or petition to present, and so be induced to visit him. I did not like this at all, for, as far as I can judge hitherto, the only man worth knowing in the place is himself. . . . I believe that I did not tell you that, when at New York, I entered into an agreement with Frederic Saunders to publish another edition of the Charac- teristics — for the American editions were exhausted and the people wild after it ; it was to be printed in one volume and he engaged me to make ten etchings for it that might be something peculiar. I brought the plates here to Toronto and set to work as soon as I was well enough and in 20 days finished eleven etchings — but behold there was no press to prove the plates and when I had finished all, as well as I could, with much trouble and anxiety, Saunders being in the greatest haste, I packed all up to go off to New York and then could find no conveyance which would be responsible for the safe carriage of the packet and no respectable person (who would take charge of them) 140 A New World was going — so the plates lie by me, the publication of the book is stopped. Saunders is in despair and the loss to him and to me will probably be considerable and all because through this half-settled, half-civilized country (I mean the neighbouring states), the roads, conveyances etc. are in a more barbarous condition than you can imagine. No sum that I could pay could ensure the safety of my packet, for, as they told me, nothing was certain but its loss ; it is as if one was out of the world. I have been here at Toronto just one month and have been out of the house twice ; once in a sleigh to return visits and once a short walk to visit Mrs. Draper ; it is so difficult to walk on the snow and in that I was in continual danger of falling. The runners of the sleighs form a slippery path in the centre and on each side there is a more slippery and more dangerous foot- path — most people wear cloth or list shoes over their leather ones. Of the dreadful bitterness of the climate I can scarcely give you an idea and I feel it the more from the discomfort of the house in which we are lodged, which seems to let in the wintry air on every side. One morning I found the snow lying in a heap inside my window, and literally burying some books and papers which were lying there. .When the snow falls here it does not fall in flakes, at least not in general, but in a kind of firm powder, like frozen mist penetrating everywhere unless the doors and windows are made absolutely airtight. Now what shall I tell you more, my dearest ones? I believe I have said all I have to say but I shall leave my letter open to the last moment, I have just heard of the wreck of another vessel from England ; io8 141 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships persons perished in sight of the shore and only a few miles from New York, by reason of the neglect of the pilots who are at present at feud with the civil authorities ! Is it not horrible? But to return once more to you all, how willingly would 1 undergo again all I suffered, and danger to boot— Goodnight and God bless you all. Jan. 7. Since I began my letter I have had an attack of ague to which it seems this climate exposes all newcomers and I am told to my comfort that I shall suffer much more in the Spring;'. I am now better but rather weak from fever — ^in a day or two I am going to Niagara to spend a few days with Alma and Emily and for change of air. I shall also visit the Falls so that my next letter will contain a full account of all these wonderful things. . . . The day before yester- day Mr. Hepburn and Col. Gibbons brought three Chippewas Indians to visit me ; they came from the upper part of Lake Huron on a mission to the Governor. The chief was named the " White Deer," his two attendants " The Beaver " and " The Great Buffaloe." They were dressed in rude coats of blanket and caps of the same, they were quite unembarrassed and when I received them with a chain of wampum round my neck, they smiled and seemed pleased — wam- pum you know is the sign of peace and friendship. I gave them luncheon which they ate very tidily and prayed the Great Spirit to reward my hospitality. . . , Anna could not reconcile herself to Toronto, which she called a fifth-rate provincial town, with 142 A New World aspirations to be considered a capital city. She describes it in " Winter Studies " as " a little ill-built town on low land, at the bottom of a frozen bay, with one very ugly church without tower or steeple ; some Government offices built of staring red brick, in the most tasteless vulgar style imaginable ; three feet of snow all around ; and the grey, sullen wintry lake and the dark gloom of the pine forest bounding the prospect." The biting cold had probably a good deal to do with her despondency. The ink froze while she wrote, her fingers stiffened round her pen ; a glass of water placed by her bedside was a solid block of ice in the morning. There was no society to amuse her, she was not suited to the life and was on no better terms with her husband than she had been before. The only bright spot appeared to be the prospect of his becoming Chancellor, a post which he afterwards obtained ; he was subsequently Speaker of the House of Assembly. The distracted state, politically speaking, of a country that she allowed to be " magnificent," though its clunate and social conditions appalled her, called from Anna the following characteristic statement of her views : '' In politics I acknow- ledge two parties, those who hope and those who fear. In morals but two parties— those who lie and those who speak truth ; and all the world I divide into those who love and those who hate." 143 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships Anna Jameson to her Parents and Sisters. My dearest People,— There is no news from this place — we are still snowed up and the thermometer was on Monday at 2 2 below zero 54 below freezing point. I see nobody and care for nobody; I occupy myself incessantly and send the time away. The Chancery Bill has passed and I am in hopes the appointment of Chancellor will follow quickly; the Salary of the Attorney General is 1200 a year including fees and contingencies — and the Salary of the Chancellor will be 1200 a year — not including fees, and so the income doubles or nearly so. Jameson will make an excellent Chancellor, he is just cut out for the office, so cautious, so inoffensive and so clever in Chancery practise. My hope is to be in Europe by next September or October; nothing can describe my detestation of this place — or to speak more truly, my perception of my own unfitness for it. I saw last night 8 houses burned to the ground — I was so near that the heat almost blistered my face and I helped to watch the poor people's things ; some of the Irishmen risked their lives in a frightful manner — God bless them ! none like them in good or mischief. A poor woman, upon whose bedstead I was standing, was looking steadily and quietly at her house blazing. I said to her with compassion — " It is dreadful to stand by and look on thus and see all one's property des- troyed." She replied very quietly " Yes Ma'am — but I dare say some g"ood will come of it ; all is for the best if we only knew it." What do you think of that for Philosophy? Luckily it was a calm night and the snow lay deep, otherwise I believe half the town would 144 A New World have been destroyed. There were some frightful acci- dents caused by the recklessness of the people and the want of police. As I came home, when all was nearly over, a sleigh passed me, gliding at full speed, a man lifeless upon it — I know not whom yet. Now I must stop — I am to-day not well and all my bones ache. God bless you all and keep you. I have only one thought, wish, fear, hope — Home, Home, Home! My best love all round . 145 K CHAPTER VII RAMBLES AMONG THE RED MEN Anna Jameson to her Parents and Sisters. Niagara, January 30, 1837. My dearest Mamma, dearest Father and Sisters ALL — this is the fifth letter I Write to you since my arrival in these strange lands and as yet not one word from home nor indeed from any body ! I know you have written to me, I feel sure of that, but is it not cruel that I do not receive a letter? I cannot describe to you my anxiety and impatience about you all ; dearest Papa and how he stands the cold weather — and my Darling Babies — both of them; and then I think of the Holidays and whether the dear Girls have kept it up in Bruton Street and Mortimer St. and then I think and fear — till I can no longer bear my own thoughts. I would not live in this place were it a paradise ; luckily it is altogether detestable. Now I must tell you where I am and what I have been doing — January 24 I set off in a very nice sleigh, with Mr. Campbell (Clerk of the Assize here) and came to the Almas, who had sent •me a most hearty invitation to visit them — & go to see the falls. The distance in summer is 36 miles & 146 MRS. MURPHY. After a miniature. To race p. 146. Rambles among the Red Men you cross the lake in the steamer; in winter we have to make the circuit round the head of the lake — a round of ICG miles. The journey was very pleasant, not excepting an overset into a millrace filled up with snow. Alma met me with his sleigh at St. Catherine's and we arrived to dinner on Wednesday; Emily received me with the most affectionate joy and I find myself very much at home. Saturday we drove over to the Falls of Niagara^ which are 14 miles from the town. I must confess that the first glance disappointed me, for you see them first from the top of a high hill and looking down upon them they are foreshortened and part of the height lost ; but, when I had been looking at them for a couple of hours and from different points of view, my mind began to open to their immensity and sublimity. The most beautiful effect was produced from the snow and ice around, the freezing of the spray on the neigh- bouring rocks and trees at some little distance from the main Falls ; the water, oozing from the rocks, had frozen into great gigantic icicles of a pale green hue and the rocks lying in the river were similarly encrusted. I tramped about in the snow and on the ice until I became quite ill from fatigue, cold and excitement and all day yesterday and to-day my limbs ache as if I had been racked and I cannot even walk across the room. You must forgive this hurried letter. I send it off not to lose the opportunity which offers of sending it free. I will write again soon, and so God keep you all. A more detailed account of this expedition is to be found in " Winter Studies," where the journey 147 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships through white, snow-covered wastes and dreary pine forests is well described. It is always a picture of desolation. The thunder of the waters, unfrozen where the rapids keep them in perpetual motion, breaking on an iron shore, the sight of a great bald- headed eagle swooping down on to the topmost branch of a blasted pine-tree, arrest her attention ; and then all is monotony again. A halt at a village inn, where French fashions are framed on the walls and a copy of Don Juan is on the table, makes an amusing interlude and here, tumbling out of the mail coach from Hamilton, she sees some weird figures wrapped in bearskins, who turn out to be a party of Members of the House of Assembly on their way to Toronto. Her bitter disappointment at the first sight of Niagara was only equalled by her disgust with her- self for being disappointed. " What has come over my soul and senses? I am no longer Anna— I am metamorphosed— I am translated— I am an ass's head, a clod, a wooden spoon, a fat weed growing on Lethe's bank, a stock, a stone, a petrifaction— for have I not seen Niagara, the wonder of wonders ; and felt— no words can tell what dis- appointment ! " During her exile in Toronto Anna kept up a vigorous correspondence, not only with her own family but with friends in England and Germany. Her thoughts were, as usual, much with Ottilie, to whom she wrote on February 19, 1837 :— 148 Rambles among the Red Men " Your life has been one of passion and suffering and intervals of tranquility have been to you intervals of ennui. When the storm of sensation and emotion is over, you feel as if your heart were dead, but it is not so and I will prove it to you one day. You say I do not understand you and I say I do understand you. I have felt sometimes when I have been sitting beside you and we have been talking together, that you have not always understood my words, and that I could not always explain to you what arose from a difference of language, habits and associations and national nature ; but always I felt that you understood me." Anna Jameson to D. Brownell Murphy. Toronto, April 27, 1837. My dearest dear Father,— . . . To-day we have had the first spring day and the snow has almost entirely disappeared. I hope to be with you about the end of the summer. I will not make you melancholy by telling you of what I have suffered in this long and most miserable winter. Mr. Jameson is just the same and I am just the same therefore we are just as much and as hopelessly sepa- rated as ever; he has done nothing to make the time tolerable to me, but this not from absolute unkindness, but mere absence of feeling; he has no associates here and does not require them. Another winter would I think kill me— I do not say I should die literally, but my mind and all that is good in me would die; as it is, the hope of being emancipated sustains me and I 149 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships am so far from giving way that I try, as far as it is possible, to amuse and occupy myself. I have lately been to three great dinner parties — one given by the principal Banker, one by the new Attorney-General Hagermann and one by the Governor; the last was pleasant, for 1 sat (by right of office) next to Sir Francis Head — and he is admirable and converses ad- mirably — the others were very dull, like most dinner parties. The cold narrow minds, the confined ideas, the by-gone prejudices of the society, are hardly con- ceivable; books there arc none, nor music and as to pictures ! — the Lord deliver us from such ! — the people do not know what a picture is. You know that I am so far spoiled by meeting with love and approbation wherever I go, that the contrary must be a little pain- ful. The women here express, vulgarly enough, an extreme fear of the " authoress " and I am anything but popular. I wish you had seen the beautiful Aurora Borealis I saw the other night ; it spread like a fan over the heavens; the lower point of a soft white lambent light, the upper diverging rays tinged with the deepest crimson — and so transparent I could see the stars through them — I never saw anything more beautiful and it varied in shape and hue every instant. As for this great Lake Ontario, the land is all flat around it; where there are not upstart towns, there are marshes and forests. The lake is so enormous, that it has all the monotony of the sea, without its infinitude and magnificence. My next letter will be dated from the falls of Niagara where I am going to spend a fortnight and then I hope to be able to send you some thing quite sublime and beautiful. ISO Rambles among the Red Men Anna Jameson to her Parents. Toronto, May 26, 1837. My dearest Father and Mamma,— After a long period of dejection and anxiety I am to-day absolutely overwhelmed with letters ; first dear Charlotte's, which with its hopeful and cheerful spirit, has quite raised mine, she and Eliza I do maintain to be perfection, at least, in my eyes, they are not less than the very best of dear good girls. We shall do well yet ; indeed I think we do well considering all things. ... I have a long letter from Ottilie, full of tenderness and all manner of things; letters from her sons, acknowledging the waistcoats, which Walther says were so '' gtanzend" (brilliant) that the ladies cast down their eyes, unable to bear the splendour, also from her mother (Frau von Pogwisch), from Noel, from the Countess Hohenthal etc. In all 13 letters in one day; the effect has been to agitate me very much and make me hardly able to write. ... There is an end to everything, even to a Canadian winter, and spring brought new spirit to the weary woman whose health had suffered much from the rigours of the climate. "This beautiful Lake Ontario!" she wrote on May 19th, "my lake— for I begin to be in love with it and look on it as mine ! " In June she started on an adventurous journey, bound for out-of-the-way spots never visited by European woman before, intending to visit the Indians in their wigwams and specially Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships anxious to find out all she could with regard to the position of women amongst the natives. She stayed for a fortnight at Niagara before venturing further afield, and was now better able to appreciate one of the marvels of the world. Anna Jameson to D. Brownell Murphy. Falls of Niagara, June 21, 1837, I remember, my dearest Father, how often when I was a child you used to talk to me of these great Cataracts; and how I wish from my heart that you were here with me to enjoy the glorious spectacle they now present ! When I saw them for the first time in Winter I was rather disappointed; in fact it is impos- sible for the mind to take them in at the first glance. I have now been here for three or four days and I begin to understand all their grandeur and all their beauty. They change their appearance every half hour; every alteration of the wind, the atmosphere, even the hour of the day, makes an alteration of form and colour, but I think that, on the whole, I have been more struck by the rapids above the falls than by the falls them- selves ; no description has ever done justice to them, none ever could. The ocean lashed into breakers, making its way through wooded islands, the foliage and the foam of the leaping waves mingled together ,and the splendour of colour and light over the whole, render it one of the most wonderful scenes I ever beheld. I am staying here for some days previous to com- mencing a little tour which I have planned and shall execute if I have strength. Ki Toronto I was both ill 152 Rambles among the Red Men and unhappy — every hour added to my aversion and my misery, mthout society or sympathy and always watching myself lest I should offend the people. I felt like one caged and fettered and quitted the place with a light heart. The same day I left, Jameson opened his Court as Chancellor and I hear there will be immense business. I have just received your letter, my dearest Father, dated April 25th. It has made me very happy and I shall now begin my journey with some courage and cheerfulness. How much I shall have to tell you when we meet ! I trust in God that next winter shall be different from the last; it has been a time of general suffering every way and apparently extending from nation to nation down to the humblest individuals. Dis- astrous changes of fortune, sickness, all manner of troubles have prevailed, and for my own part I never spent a winter so wretchedly ; it was all unmingled suffering. I do not doubt dear Eliza's virtue and benevolence, nor Charlotte's filial duty; but may I not help them ! It must be, that they. Avill have the happi- ness of doing more for your and Mamma's daily happi- ness than I can, but I must have my part too. I have not absolutely given up all thoughts of writing and, on the contrary, have a work in great forwardness ; but at present I cannot apply myself to scribbling. There is so much to see and learn that I must seize the oppor- tunity of appropriating knowledge to be digested and applied afterwards. Now take your Map and lay it before you, and trace my intended journey. I am going from this to Hamilton — near the west end of Lake Ontario — thence westward to Brantford on the Grand River and thence to Blandford, where I stay a 153 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships day with Mrs. Arnold — thence to London, thence to Port Talbot where I shall spend a day with Colonel Talbot of Malahide — he settled in this country 30 years ago under strange circumstances and has a beautiful property on Lake Erie; there I embark for Detroit — where I hope to meet Mr. and Mrs. MacMurray and go with them to their settlement among the Indians at the very extremity of Lake Huron. I wish to see, with my own eyes, the condition of women in savage life. Thence I come round the north west shore of Lake Huron with an Indian escort and by the Manitoulin Islands, Penetanguishene and Lake Simcoe back to Toronto; thence, after rest, down the St. Lawrence to Montreal and Quebec and then by Boston to New York — and thence Home to you. This is my plan but we can only propose and I hear of so many difficulties and obstacles that I begin to prepare myself for disappoint- ment ; only one thing is certain that if I live, I will be in London about October next. . . . Your dutiful and affectionate Child Anna. The journey, with all its difficulties and some dangers, was accomplished most satisfactorily, Anna being everywhere received with great kindness. •WTiile going up Lake Superior in a canoe she heard the news of Queen Victoria's Accession. Anna Jameson to the Honble. Amelia Murray ^ We hailed a schooner with "What news?" " William IV is dead and Queen Victoria reigning in his stead I " ^ Published in Reminiscences by the Honourable Amelia Murray. 154 Rambles among the Red Men We sat there silent, looking at one another and at that moment the orb of day rose out of the lake and poured its beams full in our dazzled eyes. Many thoughts came into my mind, some tears rose into my eyes, not certainly for that dead King, who, in ripe age and in all honour, was gathered to the tomb ; but for that living Queen, so young and so fair. As many hopes hung on that noble head, As there hang blossoms on the boughs of May. And what will become of them, of her? The idea that even here, in this new world of woods and waters, amid these remote wilds, to her utterly unknown, her power reaches and her sovereignty is acknowledged, filled me with compassionate awe. I say com- passionate ; for if she feels, in its full extent, the liabilities of her position, alas for her 1 and if she feels them not, oh ! worse and worse. I tried to recall her childish figure and features. I thought over all I had ever heard concerning her. I fancied her not such a thing as they could make a mere pageant of ; for that there is too little without, too much within. And what will they make of her? For at eighteen she will hardly make anything of them, I mean of the men and women around her. It is of the woman I think, more than of the Queen ; for as part of State machinery, she will do quite as well as another, better perhaps ; so far her youth and her sex are absolutely in her favour. If she be but simple- minded and true-hearted and straight-forward, with a common portion of intellect ; if a Royal education has not blunted in her the quick perceptions and pure fine instincts of the woman ; if she has only had fair 155 Anna Jameson : Letters and Friendships play and carries into business plain distinct noti