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ORDERS OF COLLARS. 
 
ORIGINAL INSTITVTIONS 
 
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 .C'LQ C(^ ^XXL^L 
 
NOTICE. 
 
 Cs'S'/- 
 
 III WILLIAM SEGAK, Knight, Garter 
 Principal Kixcwvt-Arms, during the reign of 
 James the First, is well known as the author of 
 a valuable work entitled O/' Honour, M'lUtari/ 
 and Civil ; treating of Jurisdiction Mil i fart/. 
 Knighthood, Combats, and Prccedencij ;^ and 
 also of Baronagium Genealogicum — a manuscript collection which 
 formed the basis of Edmonson''s work which bears the same title. He 
 was of Dvitch extraction, and his origin is supposed to have been low. 
 He was bred a scrivener, and held a subordinate situation under Sir 
 Thomas Heneage, Vice-Chamberlain to Queen Elizabeth. Tlie of- 
 fice of Garter King-at-Arms, was bestowed upon him early in the reign 
 of James the First ; and in this capacity he was frequently employed 
 by that Monarch. Whilst Portcullis, he attended the splendid Festival 
 of St George, held at Utrecht in 1586 ; and his account of it was af- 
 terwards published by Stow. In 160.S, he was sent with the Garter to 
 
 1 Dedicated to Queen Elizabeth, and printed at London in 160y. 
 
 491 
 
VI 
 
 Christian the Fourth, King of Denmark; and in 1612, King James 
 made him the bearer of the Insignia of the same Order to Maurice, 
 Prince of Orange. He received the honour of Knighthood on the fifth 
 of November, 1616. Soon after this period he incurred the royal dis- 
 pleasure, in consequence of having incautiously given the Arms of 
 Arrao-on, with a Canton of the Arms of Brabant, to George Brandon, 
 tlie public executioner of London, for the trifling sum of twenty-two 
 shillino-s. He was delivered into the custody of the Marshalsea, but 
 after undergoing a short imprisonment, it was ascertained that he had 
 been deceived by a Herald of the name of Brookesmouth, who had 
 drawn Arms for Brandon not dissimilar to those of Arragon, expressly 
 for the purpose of imposing upon the easy credulity of Segar. He was 
 accordingly liberated upon a petition from the College of Arms ; " and, 
 in the most honourable manner, restored to all the privileges of his 
 situation.""^ 
 
 Segar was twice married ; first into the family of Sir Somers of 
 
 Kent, Knight ; and afterwards to a daughter of Robert Browne of 
 Evington, in Herefordshire, Gent. He died on the 3d of December, 
 1633, leaving a numerous issue. As a distinguished Member of the 
 College of Arms, it may be worth mentioning, that he bore, first and 
 fourth. Azure, a Cross-moline Argent, for Segar; and second and 
 third, a Chevron, between three Mullets Azure, for Crakenthorp, — the 
 surname of his mother's family, who must have been an heiress. 
 
 Noble's History of the College of Anns, P. 231. 
 
VII 
 
 Among his other Heraldic Manuscripts, Segar left a short Account of 
 the Original Institutions of the Princely Orders of Collars, 
 dedicated to his patron James the First. This AVork, which has not 
 hitherto been published, and from which the present impression has 
 been printed, now belongs to the Library of the Faculty of Advocates 
 at Edinburgh. It is written upon vellum, and is in the highest state of 
 preservation. The volume must have been formerly in the posses- 
 sion of Sir James Balfour, Lord Lyon King-at-Arms, in the reign of 
 Charles the First ; as it bears the following autograph of that eminent 
 Herald : — Ex Libris Ja: Balfourii Kynardi.e, Mil: Baroxeti 
 Leonis Ar: Regis. The Work was probably executed soon after James 
 the First ascended the Throne of England. 
 
 The historical notices which accompany the emblazonings of the dif- 
 ferent Collars, although short, are curious. The only Order of which 
 Segar does not assign the origin, is that of the Thistle. The following 
 account of it is extracted from a Charter of King James the Second, en- 
 tered in the seventy-first Book of the Register of the Great Seal, by 
 which that Monarch, on the 29th of JMay, 1687, restored the Order to 
 the state in which it had flourished till the time of the rebellion against 
 his great grandmother. Queen Mary : — 
 
 •' Quum serenissimus decessor noster, Scotorum Rex, Achaius, Or- 
 dinem Cardui, ex summo principe et duodecem equitibus fratribus con- 
 stantem, ad Salvatoris et Apostolorum suorum numerura alludens, sub 
 protectione Andreae Scotiae patroni instituisset, in memoriam insignis 
 victorie ejusd: Achaij adversus Athelstanum, Saxonum regem, post 
 
VIII 
 
 prelium cruentum ubidam pugiiaretur, in coelis effulsit crux alba decus- 
 sata, ad formam illius qiuc Sancti Andreae Martyrio est sacra, quo 
 fausto portento animati Scoti hostes in fugam dedere."" 
 
 Nothing can be more beautiful than the colouring and emblazonings 
 of the Collars by Segar. They have been minutely copied for the 
 present impression by Mr Lizars, who, with his usual ingenuity, has 
 succeeded in producing an effect nearly equal to the originals. 
 
 EDINBURGH: 
 
 FEB. XXV. M.DCCC.XXII. 
 
Co tfje iWlost l^igf). 
 
 MVS^^^* ^^^ 3Rtgl)t excellent 
 
 prince B^tttes, bg tbe (Borate 
 
 of (S^oti, ^tng of iBvtat 
 
 jSrtttaitt, jFrante, anti 
 
 KrelantJ, Befentor of tlje jfaitf), 
 
 anti ^oberaitt of tfje iiEost Jtolile 
 
 iBrtier of t|)e (!l^arter. 
 
2 
 
 Co tf)e ^in^is 
 0im t^tlltnt JHatestte. 
 
 i^loist (Gracious ^obevain, 
 
 2i^3[S^<3 finished my Annales of the 
 Knightis of the Most Noble Order of 
 the Garter from the begyning of 
 i^ing (2BDii3avti 313131* tyme, vntill the 
 later ende of Queen Elizabeth's 
 raigne, of famous memory ; And the last yeare pre- 
 sented your Maiestie with all the materiall chapters, 
 conteyned in the Black, and Blew Bookis of the Order, 
 a woork not vnnecessary ; I thought good this yeare 
 to remember vnto you, as briefly as I could, the ori- 
 ginall institucons of the Princely Orders of CoUers, 
 which, as I doubt not they are sufficiently knowne 
 vnto your Maiestie alredye, yett, being exprest in 
 
their cuUors with their mottetis, I hope it sliall be 
 taken in very good part : And so, beseeching Al- 
 mighty God to bless your Maiestie with many happy 
 dayes and yeares in all royall prosperity, I most hum- 
 bly abide, 
 
 Your Maiestie's most faithfull Seruant, 
 
 Wiillm. ^egar, (Smarter. 
 
DCOaiRD tljt Cljivti having had and 
 obteyned many triumphant victoryes, 
 against the Frenchmen and others, 
 in remuneracon of the valiant ende- 
 ^ vors of his Nobles and Cheifteyns in 
 those exploytis, instituted the ^tHt of f^t d^artet, 
 An^. Dili. 1349, and ordeyned S' George the patron 
 thereof 
 
 The invention is reported of the falling of a garter 
 from a lady, which the King in dancing with her 
 caught vp, and wore it about his legg for a favor ; 
 Avhervpon some suspicion was concieued, and hee, to 
 shewe his inocency, vowed to make yt the most ho- 
 nourable Garter that ever was worne ; the which hee 
 did by making it an Order, and adding this motto, 
 fpan^ lOfoit qui mal ^ pen0e. The number of Knightis 
 were xxvi, with the Souerain ; the place of celebra- 
 con, Windsore Castle ; the tyme, S^ George's feast. 
 
'ih^irr iBilFAir tiainrttier 
 
 WlU.uarr Sevlp! 
 
The habit, a surcoat, and whood of crimsin vellet ; 
 the vpper robe of purple vellet, with a garter, and 
 scuchion of S*^ George on the left sholder. 
 
 At the first the Knightis wore only a George of 
 gold, at a small chayne without inrichement of jewellis; 
 but !King Jl)entP ^3[% adorned the Order with a Col- 
 ler of Koses and Knottis, and a George pendant in- 
 riched. 
 
6 
 
 Q^a^dB^, dutnameti 3|l ^etde, 
 031« <2Barle of ^auo^> begun this 
 £Dttiet of tjje ^nunctacon, in me- 
 mory of amatiess, firsst Catle of ^a- 
 tJO^> whoe had valerously defended 
 the Isle of Eodes against the Turkes. 
 
 It was celebrated in the Church of the Castle of 
 Pietra, in the Diocess of Belleis, Ano. Dni. 1409. The 
 Coller apperteyning to this Order is made of plates 
 of gold, on which are graven theis foure letters, j7* 
 (2B« in* C* which signifieth theis words, jTottttuDo ehl0 
 IRoDtun teauit* And at the said Coller hangeth a 
 tablet, wherin is figured the Angell's Salutacion of 
 the Virgin Mary. 
 
 Euery Knight of this Order at the reading of the 
 Creed, and of the Gospell, turne their faces towardis 
 
X af Iflbie 
 
 :mB(rmil:a.tiiii.. 
 
 tt' li.r iz.ifj .\c„/p' 
 
the Alter, and drawing of their swordi«, they advance 
 them over their heads, in token they wil be defen- 
 douris thereof, which custome they took from the 
 Knightis of Eodes and Malta. 
 
8 
 
 JJ)3iL3P> jESuntamcD le IBmx, Duke 
 of 'Burgunti^, instituted the SDtOcr 
 of tlje Golden jFleerC> and dedicated 
 it to Saint James, Anno Dni. 1429. 
 It was in imitacon of the ©tti0t Of 
 tlje (^attet> and the Statutes thereof are not muche 
 vnhke. The number of the Knightis were at first 
 XXV, whereof the Dukes of Burgundy were foreuer to 
 be Soveraines. 
 
 Their habit was scarlet cloath furred, and wore 
 aboute their neckis the picture of a golden sheep, fixed 
 to a chayne of gold, with this woord, 3|e ^atntetntita^* 
 Cai:oUij(J, jsumameti Pugnajr, ti\t iuatltfee Dufee 
 of IBurgundp, was the first that adorned this Order 
 with the great CoUer, composed of fucills and flintis, 
 lincked together with flames yssuing, and his motto, 
 3nte ttxit quain flaiuma nifcet, which gave occasion 
 
(f' 
 
 ffr mw mMbm wimxe 
 
 W.UJ.i.ajj Se>Uf>f 
 
9 
 
 to Eenat, Duke of Lorein, to jest at the device in 
 a Banner, vpon the death of the said Charles, ^^h() 
 was slayn at Nancy ; the weather heing exstream cold, 
 and the earth covered with snowe ; " Alas ! poor vn- 
 fortunate Prince (quoth hee) when hee had most need 
 to warme hym, he had no tyme to strike fire." 
 
 CljavlejES tfje jFtftfje, vpon the intercourse con- 
 firmed between England and Burgundye, altred the 
 word to IPvrtmm Iton title labovum> having alusion 
 to the riche trade of Englishe wools, which hee called 
 his Golden Fleece. 
 
 But the Spanyardis now say, their Golden Fleece 
 comes from the Indyes, and the Golden Fleece is 
 turned into Golden Fleetis, meaning their shiping 
 laden with gold, and golden comodityes. 
 
10 
 
 (2Bm(ZB^> tfjeleanentlje of tij^tBnmt, 
 MwQ of iFrante, instituted the SDr- 
 tier of %t ^icfiaell. Anno Diii, 1469, 
 and dedicated yt to the honoui* of 
 that Saint. 
 
 The nomber of the Knightis of that Society were 
 XXXVI, being the noblest Peers of that Kealme, and 
 suche as were without reproche ; the King ordeyning 
 himselfe, and his successors forever, to be Soverains 
 of that Order. 
 
 Their Habit was cloath of sylver, bordred aboute 
 ^\ith knottis, and escallops of gold. Their Coller was 
 goldsmythry of the same, and of the value of 200 
 crownes, at which was pendant the effigie of St ]Mi- 
 chaell, subduing the Dragon ; made in opposition of 
 the HDvdec of %t (^tatQtf for a victory obteyned by 
 the Frenche against the Englishe, vpon the bridge of 
 Orleans, with this motto, 3[mmen0i fi'cmor HDreant 
 
llJrlfir ioi #>! Mkh^st 
 
 \i.llJ.i:rti.r Scuipf 
 
11 
 
 The Frenche writers ascribe this victory to an ap- 
 parition of St Michael! in the conflict ; others to the 
 sorcery of one Joan La Pucill, an enchantress ; whoe 
 was afterward burned at Roan by the Enghsh, sur la 
 marche vieua\ In theis later tymes, the nomber of 
 this Order so muche increased, as it abated the repu- 
 tacon and glory thereof. 
 
12 
 
 (2BjOEg, tljt CfitvD of tjat jOame, 
 i^tng of JFvance anti Poland, institu- 
 ted this HDudei; of tijt g)oI|) (5jioj5t, 
 An° Domini, 1578, and in the V yeare 
 of his raigne. 
 It was called the HDvtiet; of tfje ^atnt (Bsi^tit, for 
 that it was celebrated in the time of Penticost, when 
 (as they saye) yt pleased God, by the inspiration of 
 the Holy Ghost, to vnite the hartis of the Pohshe no- 
 biUty to make hym their King. 
 
 The number of Knightis in the said Order are one 
 hundred, besydes the Soverain, whoe alwayes is the 
 King. In which number are comprehended foure 
 CardinalUs, five Prelates, the Chancellor, Provost, 
 Thresorier, M"" of the Ceremonyes, and the Scribe, or 
 Register, all which are called Commanders. The nom- 
 ber is neuer to be augmented, nor diminished ; nor 
 no stranger to be admitted of the Order. 
 
IfiSiaF (OiTil);? ^sh il).lj)i05l 
 
 ^JlJ.ita'-s J'a^.' 
 
13 
 
 The Coller belonging to this Order is made and 
 composed of characters and fleur cle Hz, with flames 
 yssuing like cloven tongues ; and a Cross pendant at 
 the Coller, with the Holy Ghost descending Hke a 
 dove therein. 
 
 Their mantle, or vpper robe, is of murry vellet, em- 
 broidered round about with the woork of the Coller, 
 and their kirtle, or vnder garment, of orenge cullor 
 satten. They wear also a mantlet of green cloath of 
 siluer, covering but their shoulders, bordred with like 
 charecters. 
 
 This Order was made and ordeyned that none but 
 Princes and others of the Holy League, being natu- 
 rall Frenchmen, shold weare yt. 
 
 The motto of this Order I am not certeynly in- 
 formed of, but as I have heard the woordes to be 
 theis, Conrovdta vtsi paruae tvedmnt. 
 
14 
 
 M^ CoUer anti Deuue of tijt €W' 
 
 tit or TBurt, I have often seen both 
 
 printed in bookes, and painted in 
 
 tables, yet could neuer learne the 
 
 originall cause therof. 
 
 The Tablett affixed to the Chayne is enameled 
 
 asure, a Saltoir argent, and sometyme the effigie of 
 
 St Andrew holding the Cross ; the motto, jfl^flUO mt 
 
 tmputie lacej535et» 
 
 The motto I have redd in Paulus Jovius thus ap- 
 ply ed ; Franciscus Sforza, Duke of Milan, having by 
 force taken the possession of that state, as right of 
 inheritance by liis wife Madona Bianca, of the family 
 of the Viscontis, and by that means quieted that busi- 
 nes ; gaue for his Impreas a greyhound sitting, with 
 
mthn 'b£ d)e C hisdt 
 
 WUl.,!^, Sru^.' 
 
15 
 
 this motto, Ciuietum nemo tmpune lacej3j(Set ; infer- 
 ring, that hee gaue no offence to any person, but was 
 recly to offend, and defend hymself against those that 
 shold any wayes molest him. 
 
EDINBURGH . 
 
 PRINTED BY JAMES BALLANTYNE & CO. 
 
 M.tCCC.XXU. 
 
 /V 
 
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