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HER MAJESTY QUEEN VICTORIA,

THIS VOLUME

BY SPECIAL PERMISSION GRATEFULLY DEDICATED

THE AUTHOR.

M111463

A BIENDING OF At H BEADTIE8 ; STREAMS AND DELI S,
FROIT. FOtlAQE, ORAO, WOOD, CORNFIELD, MOONTAIN, VINE
AND CHIEFT.ESS CASTLES BREATHING 81EKN FAREWELLS
FROM GRAY BCT LEAFY WALLS, WHERE RUIN GREENLY PWBII.S.

CHILDE HAROLD

CONTENTS.

Page

Introduction. — Outline of the Rhine Tour - - - . }

Interchapter — London to Antwerp - - - . > . 5

The Good Genius of Antwerp - - - - - .7

The Legend of the Blacksmith - - - - ■• -15

Interchapter — Antwerp - - - - - -21

The Railroad Trip — Brussels - - - - - - 27

Waterloo - - - - - - - -36

Interchapter — Brussels - - - - - - . 43

Brussels to the Rhine, by Liege and Aix-la-Chapelle - - - - 51

Liege - - - - - - - .54

Interchapter — Liege - - - - - - -65

The City of Charlemagne — ^ The Legends of Aix-la-Chapelle - - - 69

Interchapter — Aix-la-Chapelle - - - - - - 77

The Trip to Cologne — The Banks of the Rhine - - - - 83

The Wines of the Rhine - - - . - - 89

The Legends of Cologne — The Carnival - - - - - 97

Interchapter — Cologne - - - - - -113

The Robbers of the Rhine - - - - - -117

Map of the Rhine - - - - - - -123

Bonn and its Neighbourhood - - - - - - 132

Interchapter — Bonn - - - - - - -137

Bonn to Coblentz -----.. 141

Interchapter — Coblentz - - - - - -151

Coblentz to Mayence -----_. 153

The Brothers -- - - - - . -154

Heidelburg - - - - - . -170

Interchapters — Mayence - - - - - -171

Mannheim - - - - . -173

Wiesbaden - - - - . -174

Appendix : —

1. Descriptive Catalogue of the Works of Art in the Museum at Antwerp - 177

2. Descriptive Catalogue of the Pictures in the Museum at Brussels - 197

INTRODUCTION. OUTLINE OF THE RHINE TOUR. THE INTERCHAPTEV;

N the first announcement of a New Book upon an Old Theme,
custom and convenience alilie require that a word should
be said in shape of introduction and explanation. Its object,
its usefulness, its points of novelty, and intended appearance,
become the proper text for the Preface.

First, then, of the intention of this Book, which is to
make more pleasantly familiar in England the most beau-
tiful and most romantic of the rivers of Europe ; to show
how easily its scenery may be enjoyed, and how small an outlay of time and
money is requisite to make acquaintance with the charms of The Rhine —
the stream of the Conqueror, the Poet, and the Painter — the river of rivers — its
majestic banks made historical by CiBsar, by Charlemagne, by Napoleon ; its
crumbling ruins in picturesque decay, each in itself a lingering romance of the
Middle Ages; its vine-clad slopes, the parent of the Rheinioein, and theme of a
thousand songs ; its rapid waters, the fabled dwelling-place of sprites and mer-
maidens ; — the River of " The Fatherland."

The charm of The Rhine Tour is increased by the facility with which it is
made. Steam is our willing slave, ready to bear us, afloat by vessel and ashore

/^, r ccc <l'cj ' ' ccJ /' ''r'' THE RHINE BOOK.

c c <■ c ^

by railway, on our pilgrimage in scai'ch of health, of change, of amusement ;
of instruction, or the picturesque. Gallantly, in spite of wind and tide, it breasts
its way, and places Cologne but a day's journey from London ; — as near as
the English Lakes, and nearer than the Highlands of Scotland !

Tliat the pleasure of the trij) has the further merit of utility needs but little
proof. TraA-el teaches what books never teach so well. It roots out prejudices,
expands the feelings, cultivates the taste, sharpens the intellect, and, beyond all
other means, polishes the manners. The advantage of the lessons thus taught is
beyond all calculation. The old moralist was right in estimating men according
to their knowledge of strange lands and languages. " He who knows one country
and one tongue, is as one man ; he who knows two, is as two ; he who knows
three, has treble power ; and so on in like proportion."

The " Grand Tour" is no longer the privilege of the f civ ; for steam has thrown
down the barrier of cost, and offers to all the teachings of travel — lessons in the
great School of the w^orld — easily and agreeably learned, and long remembered.
Steam is, indeed, our Great Schoolmaster. Not satisfied with pouring forth, for
our use and delectation, books by thousands and newspapers by millions, the
Vapoury Giant opens all Europe for the inspection, the amusement, and instruc-
tion of the Summer Tourist ; in a few hours bearing him over those boundaries
which man and nature have set up between race and race, between country
and country, as though to prevent that free and kindly intercourse which, when
indulged, is found to be so delightfully congenial to our really social nature.

Each stage of the Rhine Tour has its own peculiar attractions. First, the
trip across the Channel, and up " the lazy Scheldt ; " then Antwerp, one of the
finest old cities of tlie Continent, with its citadel and story of battles and sieges ;
its tall Spanish-built houses, their aspect telling their history ; its magnificent
Gothic Cathedral, and above all, its memory of Rubens, and its treasury of his
works. Then the railroad trip, with its trumpet signals, through the fruitful
fields of Belgium, to Brussels. The life, vivacity, and cleanliness, of the modern
portions of that " little Paris," its park, boulevards, and /)<:'^?Ve palaces, contrasting
with the gloomy grandeur of the old town. Then the plain of Waterloo, with
its monuments and recollections ever interesting to the Englishman. Then Liege,
the busy centre of manufacturing industry, — tlie Birmingliam of Belgium. Then
the delightful valley of the Meuse, and Aix-la-Cliapelle, its baths, and gaiety ;
and again, the railroad to Cologne, its old cathedral, its three skeleton kings,
uiinund>ered virgins, and other legendary histories. There the Rhine gives first
foretaste of future beauties, as above Cologne the Seven Mountains, with the
Draehenfels as their King, first break upon the sight. Ehrenbreitstein, the
Broad Stone of Honor, next frowns upon tlie gazer, and, following too thickly
for cursory description, the features of the Rhine now crowd on his delighted

INTRODUCTION.

notice. Mountains built up, as it were, of successive seams of hard bare rock,
and rich strips and patches of earth covered by the vine — graceful bends of
I'iver scenery — villages cowering for shelter under huge rocks on the banks,
the stream laving their very door-stone, and the hills rising, like earthy giants,
above the rustic roof, and slender church spires, — each mountain pinnacled by
some ruined fortaliee invested with wild legendary associations, and enriched
by all the poetical garniture of chivalric tale, and " ballad historie." From
Ehrenbreitstein to Bingen is one continuous succession of delightful scenery ;
now bold and startling, the rocks jutting bare and barren in rude sublimity,
anon the mountain tops mingle into soft outlines, their bases shutting in the
windings of the river, until the gazer finds himself passing through a seeming
succession of lakes. It is, indeed, a land of beauty and poetry. From the days
of the Romans to the time of Charlemagne, through the romance of the Crusades,
and the stirring periods of the Middle Ages, until Napoleon rose to startle
Europe, and form an era in modern history, — the Rhine has been an historic
river. To its geographical importance is added the potent charm of natural
beauty ; and the accumulated associations of ages have invested it with a degree
of interest which others may claim or envy, but may never expect to enjoy.

By this route the Rliine bears its pilgrim on his way — each few miles offering,
on either bank, towns and villages as halting-places, should he wish to linger —
until he reaches Mayence, the birth-place of the printing press. From this point
he may make excursions to "Wiesbaden, to Franckfort, to Heidelburg, to Carlsruhe,
to Baden-Baden, to Strasbourg, or, retracing his steps when the more beautiful
portions of the river have been exhausted, may hasten down the rapid current
to Holland ; — that most curious of countries — a land filched from the sea.

" A country that draws fifty feet of water.
In which men live as in the hold of nature,
And when the sea does in upon them break,
And drowns a province, does but spring a leak." Hudibras.

The Rhine Book, by an arrangement entirely novel, seeks to separate the
Romance of Travel from its Common-place. The numerous illustrations from
original sketches, and the attractions of the finest printing, will, it is hoped,
render the volume worthy of the library, the drawing-room, or the boudoir, w"hilst
it unites with its claims to elegance those points of practical usefulness necessary
in a Guide Book. Dates, distances, times, and pi'ices, will be found fully and
exactly stated, to enable the Tourist to know and regulate his expenses at plea-
sure, and to avoid those extortions to which, when destitute of such information,
he would most certainly be subjected.

The Interchapters contain various points of detail gathered in the countries
to which they refer. The Tourist who only seeks amusement or relaxation need

THE RHINE BOOK.

not trouble himself with more of them than may be requisite or serviceable for
the regulation of his movements ; but will scarcely complain that facts and
figures valuable and interesting to the student of history and to the political
economist find place in company with things more personally imjiortant, such as
lists of exhibitions, catalogues of pictui'es, and collections of hotel cards.

In preparing the details of the Interchapter for Belgium free use has been
made of the Volume of Monsieur J. Duplessy upon the Railroads of that country,
— a work compiled from official documents, and, notwithstanding the modesty of
its title, sanctioned by His Majesty King Leopold, and largely patronised by his
people. And here it may not be out of place to state that

The expense of travelling by railway in Belgium is much inferior to the charge made in England.
Let us take for example the railroad from Birmingham to Liverpool, 97i miles (rather less than
157 kilom.). The price of the best places is 11. 5s. (31 francs 25 centimes) or 20 centimes per
kilom. In Belgium, from Brussels to Antwerp, a distance of 44 kilom., the diligences cost 3
francs 50 centimes, that is 8 centimes per kilom. ; the price in the waggons does not amount to
more than 3 or 4 centimes per kilom., and in England the cheapest places come to Hi centimes
per kilom.

In France, upon the railway from Paris to Saint Germain (18,500 metres), the lowest places
are 1 franc, and on tlie road from Paris to Versailles, right bank ( 1 8,000 metres), they are 1 franc
25 centimes.

The advantage with respect to economy is still in favour of Belgium.

The German " Legends " in the latter part of the book have been chiefly
rendered from the versions of Reismann ; care having been taken to select those
most likely to interest the English Traveller, and to afford a correct notion of
the traditionary stores of The Rhine ; — its brave knights and fair ladies ; its
ancient warriors, mischievous demons, cunning gnomes, and graceful mer-
maidens

" bright forms that lure but to betray."

INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER.

FACTS, FIGURES, DISTANCES, PASSPORTS, MONETS, EXPENSES, INNS, CUSTOM HOUSES, CONVEYANCES,
LANGUAGE, EXHIBITIONS, AMUSEMENTS, PICTURES, ETC.

LONDON TO ANTWERP.

Passports. — The traveller who decides upon
visiting the Rhine will do well to take steam to
Antwerp. To do this it is first requisite to
procure a passport ; a Belgian one vise by the
Prussian Minister is the best. To procure this
a visit must be paid to the office of the Belgian
ambassador, No. 50. Portland Place, between the
hours of eleven and two. The traveller's name
and appearance will be taken the first day.
Upon calling next morning the passport will
be delivered to him free of charge. It should
be taken between eleven and two o'clock to the
Prussian Ambassador, No. 4. Carlton House
Terrace, St. James's Park, who will affix the
necessary signature, also without charge. Having
done this the traveller possesses the passport he
requires, and he may start upon his tour with-
out fear of detention, either in Belgium, on the
Rhine, or in Holland. Should he require a
passport in haste, the best plan is to go to the
Prussian Consul, B. Hebeler, Esq., No. 106.
Fenchurch Street, City, who will supply it on
payment of seven shillings.

Conveyance. — Steam-boats for the Rhine, by
way of Antwerp and Ostend, leave London
three or four times a-week. Vessels of the
General Steam Navigation Company leave
Blackwall every Thursday and Saturday. For
the tourist who studies economy, it is well to
take a return ticket from the office of this
company in Lombard Street, which tickets
convey the purchaser up the Rhine, allowing
him to land and remain at intermediate places
as long as he may think fit, and bring him back
to England at a considerable reduction upon
the fixed fares from place to place. The only
objection to this plan is that the traveller must
always journey by the same company's boats.

The direct fares from London are at the follow-
ing rates :

Fares to Antwerp from London. — Chief
Cabin, 2/. 2s.; Fore Cabin, 1/. 12». 6d. ; Chil-
dren under ten years of age, half-price ; Coach,
61. ; Chariot, 5l. ; Light Caleche, 4l. ; Two-wheel
Carriages, 3?. ; Horses, 5/.; Dogs, 10s.

But it should be remarked here, that the
steam-boat lands the passenger at Antwerp,
from which city he must travel across Belgium
to Cologne by railroad. From Cologne he
ascends the river by the steam-boats, and, if he
chooses to take a return ticket, comes down the
Rhine, through Holland, and so on back to
London by the vessels of the Steam Navigation
Company. The cheapest route of all is to take
a return ticket, via Rotterdam, returning the
same way. By this mode the cost of the Bel-
gian railroads is saved, but Belgium is not
seen.

Luggage. — Though the fares of the Belgian
railways are low, the traveller will be charged
heavily for luggage. If he travels alone, and
proposes to make only the tour of the Rhine,
he should avoid the Englishman's error of
moving about with a horse-load of baggage.
Let him leave his imaginary wants and his
half-dozen portmanteaux at home, and be con-
tent with what he can stow away in a carpet-
bag. If, however, the Rhine is only followed
as a route to some distant point, and he must
have baggage, let him book it at the General
Steam Navigation Company's Office in London
direct by steam-boat to Cologne, where he can
meet it. In this way he will avoid the annoy-
ance, anxiety, and expense of "lugging" his
burthen over land to the Rhine.

Money. — For a trip upon the Rhine so little

THE RHINE BOOK.

money is required, that the best plan is to carrj-
English sovereigns, upon changing which a con-
siderable premium is obtained — that is, if the
innkeeper is not allowed to forget this advantage
due to his customer. Should the traveller,
however, contemplate a journey beyond the
Rhine, into Switzerland and Italy, he should
provide himself with circular notes, procurable
from the bankers, Messrs. Coutts & Co., Strand;
the Union Bank of London, 2. Princes Street,
Bank, Pall iNIall East, and Argyle Place ; Sir
Claude Scott & Co., Cavendish Square ; Messrs.
Twining and Co., near Temple Bar.

Value at which the following coins are current.

Sovereign

Enplish Shillinf:!

Dutch 10 guilder pitvt .

Ducat

Guilder

Fred. d'Ur

Prussian Tlialer

French Crown Thaler .
Brabant ditto
Convention ditto
Piece of ^0 kreulzers . . .

20 frank piece

25 frank ditto

21 frank ditto

Pruss.

th. sg.
" '^0
10
20
4
17
20

Frankfl

Holland

gld. cts
U , 90
.. 58
10 . ..
5 [ 50

9 90

1 , 70

Belgium

and
Frant

DISTANCES ON THE RHINE TOUR.

London to Antwerp - -(Steam-boat)

Antwerp to Brussels - - (Railway)

Brussels to Liege - - - Do.

Liege to Aix-la-Chapelle - Do.
Aix-la-Chapelle to Cologne Do.

Cologne to Bonn - - - (Steam-boat)

Bonn to Coblenz - - - Do.

Coblenz to Boppart - - Do.

Boppart to Caub - - - Do.

Caub to Bingen - - - Do.

Bingen to Bielierich - - Do.

Bieberich to Mayence - - Do.

Mayence to Dusseldorf - Do.

Dusseldorf to Rotterdam - Do.

Rotterdam to London - - Do.

Miles.
229

261

431

20^

45|

14J

161

IH
14'

156|

200

lOGOi

Distances. — A table showing, in English
miles (omitting fractions), tlic distances cf the

principal towns in Belgium from the capital,

and from each other.

Note. The square, containing tlie angle common to
any two towns, exhibits the distance between them.
Thus, the distance from Ghent to Brussels is 30 miles,
and from Antwerp t%Liege 62.

Aniwerj*.

Bruges.

Ghent. 24

.)0

■ —

Hal,

32 54

*^uv.

75 1 95

'^•

83 1 107

Lourain.

41 65

Malines,

32 ! 54

Mons 4S

45, 60

Namur.j 41141

63 85

■«

.35

Ostend. 98 70 6S

120

109

38 1 15

The following will be useful to the traveller.

MEASURE OF LENGTH IN DIFFERENT COUNTRIES.

Eng. Miles.

1 French league is - 2i, or 2 leagues make - -"i

1 Italian mile is - U, or 7 Italian miles - 8

1 Spanish ditto (nearly) 3, or 7 Spanish ditto - 20

1 German ditto - - 4i, or 7 German ditto - 33

1 Dutch ditto - - 3^, or 1 1 Dutch ditto --10

I Kussian verst - ?, or 3 Russian vcrsts - 2

of which

make

one

equatorial

degree.

CONTINENTAL DISTANCES FOR A SINGLE POST.

France - - 1 myriametre - - 11'

Germanv - 2 miles - - . 15

Italy - - 8 miles - . - 60

Holland - 2 leagues - - 19

Switzerland - 2 leagues - - 23 .

The French metre is 1-llth of a yard, or 11 metres
make 12 yards.

1 French pound is equalto 1/6. \oz. lOdr- or 12 French
make 13 English.

IIOTKLS IN ANTWERP.

Hotel St. ilntoine, Place Vcrte, kept by Sciimitt
SrALNiiovEN. The English, French, and Gorman
Languages spoken.

Hotel Du Pare, kept by Loi'is De la Pre', Place

Verte, opposite the Cathedral. — Baths.

Hotel Grand Xiaboureur, kept by V. J. Loos,
Place de Meir, opposite the King's Palace. Table-
d'hote at 2 and 4.

Hotel I>',A.ng:leterre, kept by c. Boisacq-
VANDERHt'Lsr. This Hotel is in the centre of Ant-
werp, near the Museum, and on the road from the
Port to the Hallway.

ANTWERP.

Antwerp, from the Scheldt.

THE GOOD GENIUS OF ANTWERP.

In the Year of Grace One thousand five hundred and eighty-eight, the gossips
of the Place de Meir were amused by a group of persons, who slowly made their
way along its uneven surface. They were strangers, and from the baggage
carried by two boatmen, and the point from whence they came, it was clear that
the canal had been their route from Malines. Their di-ess was a compound of
German and Flemish, with but slight trace of the gayer and more elegant cos-
tume of Spain, which at that time was patronised in Antwerp with much real
satisfaction by the younger and richer portion of the citizens, but was regarded
by the bulk of the people as a caged tiger might look on the spangled habili-
ments of its keeper. It was evident that the inquisitive looks directed towards
the new comers gleaned from the outward aspect of the party but slight inform-
ation calculated to arouse more than a passing interest. It was a widow and her
family : she a portly dame, but much dejected in her manner, and they, five
sturdy -looking youths and two daughters — the latter more remarkable for neat-
ness than for beauty. All but the mother looked round about them enquiringly,
as though to see how the aspect of their new home chimed with the idea they
had foreshadowed of it, and one of them, — a boy about ten years old, — showed
more than Flemish feeling, by shouting with glee as he pointed out to his sisters
the beautiful spire of the Cathedral, the decorated gables of some new Spanish-

THE RHINE BOOK.

built houses, and the rich trappings of a passing cavalier. — Suddenly the caril-
lons broke forth with their music, and the shouts were doubled.

" Peter, Peter!" cried his mother, as the boy ran across the broad handsome
street to gaze into a court-yard, where a large basket of flowers had been placed :
" you must be more staid, or you will never be a lawyer."

In a moment he was at his mother's side, and taking one of her hands in both
of his, he walked obediently with her, as she led the way down a small street on

the left hand, and entered
a house. The boy looked
round about him, andiui'n-
ing to the youngest girl,
said, " I am sure you will
like this jilace, sister. Do
not be sorry we have left
Cologne — we shall soon
learn to love Antwerp as
dearly as you loved yonr
old home on the Rliine.''

In a week tlie WidoAv
and her children were
leading the quiet life of a
quiet Flemish family. Peter
was busilv eno;a2;ed in
learning languages, wliich
lie did with great facility,
and in talking about his in-
tended study of the law, —
the profession of his father.
But its dry details and
subtle niceties were not
adapted to his warm ima-
gination. His spirit
yearned for things more
bright and glowing. When
the attire of his brethren
and his sisters was dis-
cussed, he always gave his
voice and vote in favour
of gay silks and rich vel-
TiHCatiMcLai. vcts bcyoud tlic mother's

ANTWERP. 9

means. When a fete clay called forth tlie holiday attire, it was Peter Avho arranged
the disposition of the family wardrobe, and criticised the garments of the multitude
of citizens who thronged the Cathedral at High Mass ; and when the mass was
done, and the host of worshippers had departed, Peter would still linger before
the picture of some saint, or stand by the hour watching the forms of the solitary
penitents who knelt in prayer on tlie floor of the Cathedral, or in some one of its
many chapels. The flood of rich light that then streamed through the lofty
painted windows of the nave was another source of joy to him, — an object
almost of his adoration, and he would gaze upon the gold and jewels and rich
carvings of the grand altar, until its gorgeousness became almost a part of his
mental self. With a thirsty mind, he drank in all that his eye could discover of
the majestic and the gorgeous; and when his thoughts were forced by duty from
their favoui'ite theme, to the petty quirks, the mean evasions, the unworthy sub-
terfuges, and the cold, hai'd, worldly realities of the law, the inner rebellion was
cruel. The memory of his father's wishes, the desires of his mother, and the
persuasion of his friends, weighed heavily in the scale ; but a sti-ong nature was
too much for them, and Peter at length abandoned with exultation his legal studies

to become a page in the house of a noble Spanish fomily.

*******

Two and fifty years passed away, and the gossips of the Place de Meir were
acain listening; to the same carillons that had sounded a welcome to the widow's
family more than half a century before. The beautiful spire was there, and the
music Avas the same, and there was a group Avending their way towards the
widow's house. But where is the boy ?

Youth long ago had given place to manhood, and even more disgusted with the
servile duties of his post than with the foi'malities of the law, the Page became a
Painter. With the devotion of a spirit engaged in its proper sphere, he wrought
late and early at his easel, and soon there came forth from it bold vigorous forms
grouped in luxuriant profusion, and glowing with a richness of colour, such as
never before was produced by the painters of Flanders. Soon on all hands he Avas
greeted as a Master, and fame, and honours, and riches poured in rapidly upon
him. Journeying to Italy to study the pictures of that country, his polished
manners, and the news of his ability, procured him a warm reception at the Court
of Mantua — whose Duke he consented to serve as Envoy to the Court of Spain.
The stately hidalgos and lofty beauties of that sunny land were charmed Avith
the handsome i^erson, the finished address, and ready pencil of the young Flem-
ing, and Philip the Third and the proudest of his grandees Avere anxious sitters
before his easel. But the Ambassador Avas not forgotten in the Artist, nor Avas
the object of his mission left unfulfilled. Returning to Mantua he reaped an
abundant harvest of thanks and gold, and rich in the Avorld's goods he went to

10 THE RHINE BOOK.

Rome, to Bologna, to Venice, to Milan, to Genoa ; — noting in each their treasures
of Art, and painting late and early with a noble desire to emulate the greatness
of the Italian Masters. AVhilst thus engaged he got news of the mortal sickness
of his mother — and the son hurried with all the impatience of filial love to
Antwerp, but arrived too late to receive her latest breath.

Honours at home awaited him, but could not for a long time heal his grief. He
was named a Counsellor of State, and the Archduke Albert loaded him with
favours, and gave him a pension that he might have leisure if he chose it. They
tempted him to live at Brussels ; but Antwerp was his home, he said, and there
he still with unabated ardour worked on, painting altar-pieces, and other such
pictures, for most of the chief churches of Belgium. Going to Paris to take a
commission for twenty-one large paintings, the King, who ordered them, would
have them completed in that city; but no ! — Antwerp was his home, and there
he finished them. Some time before this he had married a native of the city,
and this bound him in affection still closer to the place ;' but at length his wife died,
and to amuse his grief he travelled through Holland, and afterwards accepted
missions for Madrid, and subsequently for England. In Spain he again made
friends, and painted some magnificent pictures; — in England he succeeded in
procuring for Flanders a treaty of commerce ; and surprised King Charles the
First by the variety of his accomplishments, the soundness of his judgment, the
richness of his fancy, and the power and never-ceasing industry of his pencil.
From London he went again to Spain, and thence once more returned with soft-
ened feelings to his much-loved Antwerp. There in the house near the Place de
Meir the painter received visits fi-om scions Of royal houses ; there Fekdina^'d,
the brother of Philip the Fourth of Spain, and there Maria de JNIedici, on her
way into exile, visited him ; and thus the painter diplomatist and courtier
brought honour to the city whilst he was enriching it by the immortal products
of his pencil.

But hark ! the carillons are playing merrily, and the group we saw have
entered the house, and three of them ascend its stair. There is a notary, a
physician, and a noble-looking youth, and they come to see the Painter die.
There he lies surrounded by his family ; — noble -looking sons and comely
daughters, and his young second wife. The physician says there is no hope,
and the news affects the least the man it concerns most nearly. He is calmly
resigned, and with a heart overflowing with love for those around him, amid the
prayers and tears of his family, and the sorrow of his townsmen, he closes his
earthly career.

Yet tliough long since dead in body, his name lives after him, and the works
of Peter Paul Rukens attest their author's claim to tlie title of The Good
Genius of Antwerp. His house still stands near the Place de INleir for the

ANTWERP. 1 1

traveller's inspection ; in the Cathedral may still be seen his masterpiece, the
" Descent from the Cross ; " in the Museum are many of his most masterly pic-
tures, and there too is his arm-chair, and a painting by a modern disciple display-
ing the touching details of his death. In the chapel behind the high altar of the
Church of St. Jacques we find the tomb where his ashes rest, and above it, from
his own pencil, another of his masterpieces — " St. George with other saints
before the Virgin and Child," in which are portraits of himself, of his two wives,
(Elizabeth Brant and Helena Forman,) of his children, and his father; whilst in
the centre of the greenest spot in the whole city, almost under the shadow of the
beautiful spire that attracted his boyish admiration, and in sound of his dearly-
loved carillonsy stands the Statue raised to his memory. Having gazed on these
the Stranger has no difficulty in forming his judgment on the city. The religion of
the land has reared lofty and most beautiful monuments to decorate it ; its old
supremacy of trade has left behind long piles of noble houses, broad squares, and
handsome avenues ; the spirit of war shows its presence and power in the place
by bastions, foss, and ditches innumerable ; but not one of these forms the dis-
tinguishing mark of the town. The name and fame of a Painter are its real
glory — Antaverp is the City op Rubens.*

Whilst rambling round the town in search of the memorials of Rubens, the
Tourist meets most of the other objects it has to offer for his notice. In the
Place de Meir, close to the artist's house, stands the King's Palace, a plain unin-
teresting building ; and when he leaves the Rue Rubens to walk to the Museum,
he may pass through the old Bourse, and note its Alhambra-like columns. In
the narrow streets he will encounter many specimens of the genuine Fleming,
both male and female ; and the coarse skins, long-eared caps, and wooden shoes of
the women, if he be new to continental ways, will amuse him by their novelty,
and suggest comparisons with the apparel of the labouring people of England.
Arrived at the Museum he will find, besides the works of Rubens f, many pic-

* " Having become acquainted with the Duke of Buckingham in Paris, he was commanded to
negotiate with the Duke some affairs between Spain and England. That nobleman purchased
his collection of works of art for 100,000 florins, and it was sent to England in 1625. Most of
these paintings were again, upon the Duke's death, exported for sale, and the best pictures are now
in the Belvidere Palace at Vienna.

" Rubens had gone to Spain with Prince Charles and Buckingham, according to some accounts,
in 1623; but this circumstance is very much doubted, as several things appeared to make his
journey thither at that time very improbable.

" While in England this great artist painted the present roof of Whitehall Chapel, or, more
properly, the banqueting-room of Whitehall Palace, for vs^hich he was paid 3000/." — Life of
Rubens.

f The opinion of Sir Joshua Reynolds, our chief English critic u]ion the works of Rubens,
must find place here. Sir Joshua left England chiefly to see the pictures of Rubens, influenced

THE RHINE BOOK.

tures of high character by Vandyke,
Jordaens, and Qucntyn Matsys, witli
numerous other characteristic produc-
tions of the Flemish school.

perhaps by the suggestions of Oliver Goldsmith,

who had previously passed on foot and

in great poverty through Flanders

this part of his career the poet

refers in the opening lines of

the Traveller : —

" Alone, unfriended, melancholy, slow,
Or by the lazij Schetdiy or wand'ring Po/'

" The works of men of genius
alone, where great faults are
united with groat beau-
ties, afford proper matter
for criticism. Genius is
always eccentric, bold,
and daring ; which, at
the same time that it
commands attention, is
sure to provoke criticism.
It is the regular, cold,
and timid composer who ^
escapes unseen, and de-
serves no praise.

" The elevated situa-
tion on which Rubens
stands in the esteem of
the world is alone a suf-
ficient reason for some
examination of his pre-
tensions. His fame is ex-
tended over a great part
of the Continent without
a rival ; and it may be
justly said that he has
enriched his country, not
in a figurative sense
alone, by the great ex-
amples of art which he
left, but by what some
would think a more solid
advantage, — the wealth
arising from the con-

RUBENS. 1 3

course of strangers whom his works continually invite to Antwerp. ****** Having now
seen his greatest compositions, where he has more means of displaying those parts of his art in
which he particularly excelled, my estimation of his genius is, of course, raised. It is only in
large compositions that his powers seem to have room to expand themselves. They really increase
in proportion to the size of the canvass on which they are to he displayed. His superiority is not
seen in easel pictures, nor even in detached parts of his greater works ; which are seldom eminently
beautiful. It does not lie in an attitude, or in any peculiar expression, but in the general effect,

— in the genius which pervades and illuminates the whole.

"The works of Rubens have that peculiar property always attendant on genius, — to attract
attention, and enforce admiration in spite of all their faults. It is owing to this fascinating
power that the performances of those painters with which he is surrounded, though they have,
perhaps, fewer defects, yet appear spiritless, tame, and insipid; such as the altar-pieces of Crayer,
Schut, Segcrs, Huysum, Tyssens, Van Balen, and the rest. They are done by men whose hands,
and, indeed, all their faculties, appear to have been cramped and confined ; and it is evident that
every thing they did was the eflect of great labour and pains. The productions of Rubens, on
the contrary, seem to flow with a freedom and prodigality, as if they cost him nothing ; and to
the general animation of the composition there is always a correspondent spirit in the execution of
the work. The striking brilliancy of his colours, and their lively opposition to each other ; the
flowing liberty and freedom of his outline ; the animated pencil with which every object is touched,

— all contribute to awaken and keep alive the attention of the spectator ; awaken in him, in some
measure, correspondent sensations, and make him feel a degree of that enthusiasm with which the
painter was carried away. To this we may add the complete uniformity in all the parts of the work,
so that the whole seems to be conducted and grow out of one mind : every thing is of a piece, and
fits its place. Even his taste of drawing and of form appears to correspond better with his
colouring and composition than if he had adopted any other manner, though that manner, simply
considered, might have been better. It is here, as in personal attractions, there is frequently
found a certain agreement and correspondence in the whole together, which is often more captivating
than mere regular beauty.

" Rubens appears to have had that confidence in himself which it is necessary for every artist to
assume when he has finished his studies, and may venture in some measure to throw aside the fetters of
authority; to consider the rules as subject to his control, and not himself subject to the rules; to
risk and to dare extraordinary attempts without a guide, abandoning himself to his own sensations>
and depending upon them. To this confidence must be imputed that originality of manner by
which he may be truly said to have extended the limits of the art. After Rubens had made up
his manner, he never looked out of himself for assistance : there is, consequently, very little in his
works that appears to be taken from other niasters. If he has borrowed any thing, he has had the
address to change and adapt it so well to the rest of his work that the thief is not discoverable.

" Besides the excellency of Rubens in these general powers, he possessed the true art of
imitating. He saw the objects of nature with a painter's eye ; he saw at once the predominant
feature by which every object is known and distinguished : and as soon as seen, it was executed
with a facility that is astonishing : and, let me add, this facility is to a painter, when he closely
examines a picture, a source of great pleasure. How far this excellence may be perceived or felt
by those who are not painters, I know not : to them certainly it is not enough that objects be
truly represented; they must likewise be represented with grace, which means, here, that the
work is done with facility and without effort. Rubens was perhaps the greatest master in the
mechanical part of the art, the best workman with his tools, that ever exercised a pencil.

" This power, which Rubens possessed in the highest degree, enabled him to represent whatever

THE RHINE BOOK.

he undertook better than any other painter. His animals, particularly lions and horses, are so
admiralile, that it may be said they were never properly represented but l)y him. His portraits
rank with the best works of the painters who have made that branch of the art the sole business
of their lives; and of these he has left a great variety of specimens. The same may be said of
his landscapes ; and though Claude Lorraine finished more minutely, as becomes a professor in
any particular branch, yet there is such an airiness and facility in the landscapes of Rubens,
that a painter would as soon wish to be the author of them as those of Claude, or any other artist
whatever.

" The pictures of Rubens have this effect on the spectator, that he feels himself in no wise
disposed to pick out and dwell on his defects. The criticisms which are made on him are, indeed,
often unreasonable. His style ought no more to be blamed for not having the sublimity of
INIichael Angelo, than Ovid should be censured because he is not like ^'irgil.

" However, it must be acknowledged that he wanted many excellences which would have
perfectly united with his stylo. Among those we may reckon beauty in his female characters :
sometimes, indeed, they make approaches to it ; they are healthy and comelj- women, but seldom,
if ever, possess any degree of elegance : the same may be said of his young men and children.
His old men have that sort of dignity which a bushy beard will confer ; but he never possessed a
poetical conception of character. In his representations of the highest characters in the Christian
or the fabulous world, instead of something above humanity, which might fill the idea which is
conceived of such beings, the spectator finds little more than mere mortals, such as he meets with
every day.

" The incorrectness of Rubens, in regard to his outline, oftener proceeds from haste and
carelessness than from inability : there are in his great works, to which he seems to have paid more
particular attention, naked figures as eminent for their drawing as for their colouring. He
appears fo have entertained a great abhorrence of the meagre, dry manner of his predecessors, the
old German and Flemish painters; to avoid which he kept his outline large and flowing: this,
carried to an extreme, produced that heaviness which is so frequently found in his figures.
Another defect of this great painter is his inattention to the foldings of his drapery, especially that
of his women: it is scarcely ever cast with any choice of skill. Carlo Maratti and Rubens are,
in this respect, in opposite extremes: one discovers too much art in the disposition of drapery,
and the other too little. Rubens's drapery, besides, is not properly historical ; the quality of
the stuflf of which it is composed is too accurately distinguished, resembling the manner of Paul
Veronese. This drapery is less offensive in Rubens than it would be in many other painters
as it partly contributes to that richness which is the peculiar character of his style, which we do
not pretend to set forth as of the most simple and sublime kind.

" The difference of the m.nnner of Rubens from that of any other jiainter before him is in
nothing more distinguishable than in his colouring, which is totally different from that of Titian,
Correggio, or any of the great colourists. The effect of his pictures may be not improperly
compared to clusters of flowers : all his colours ajjpear as clear and as beautiful ; at the same time
he has avoided that tawdry effect which one would expect such gay colours to produce ; in this
respect resembling Rarocci more than any other painter. What was said of an aiicient painter
may be applied to those two artists, — that their figures look as if they fed upon roses.

" It would be a curious and profitable study for a ])ainter to examine the difference, and the
cause of tli.it diflerence, of effect in the works of Correggio and Kul)ens, both excellent in
different ways. The difference, probably, would be given according to the different habits of the
connoisseur : those who had received their first im)>ressions from the works of Rnbcns would
censure Correggio as heavy ; and the admirers of Correggio would say Rubens wanted solitlity of

QUENTYN MATSYS WELL. 15

2rftc HcgcnU of t\)t 331ndksmitlj.

Clang, clang, sounds the heavy hammer

Clang, clang, with a constant roar ;
Thicker fall the blows and faster

By that dingy smitliy door.
Sturdy is the blacksmitli's figure,

Firmly knit with strength enow
To lift the hammer like a plaything,

Yet there's pain upon his brow.
Trouble sore and sad vexation

Clouds his handsome face the while,
Still he plies his old vocation :

Where is gone his olden smile ?

Clang, clang, goes the heavy hammer,
Clang, clang, with a constant roar.

Thicker fall tlie blows and faster
On that dingy smithy floor.

Supple now the stubborn iron

Twines within the craftsman's hand.

Into shapes and curves fantastic
Twists it still at his command,

effect. Tliere is lightness, airiness, and facility in Rubens, his advocates will urge, and compara-
tively a laborious heaviness in Correggio, whose admirers will complain of Rubens's manner
being careless and unfinished, whilst the works of Correggio are wrought to the highest degree of
delicacy ; and what may be advanced in favour of Correggio's breadth of light will, by his
censurers, be called affected and pedantic. It must be observed, that we are speaking solely of
the manner, the effect of the picture ; and we may conclude, according to the custom in pastoral
poetry, by bestowing on each of these illustrious painters a garland, without attributing superiority
to either,

" To conclude, — I will venture to repeat in favour of Rubens, what I have before said in
regard to the Dutch school, — that those who cannot see the extraordinary merit of this great
painter, either have a narrow conception of the variety of art, or are led away by the affectation
of approving nothing but what comes from the Italian school." — Tuurin Holland and Flanders, by
Sir Joshua Reynolds.

16 THE RHINE BOOK.

Till on upright standards stately

A roof is fasliion'd, light and tall,
AVith an iron carved figure
Pois'd like pinnacle o'er all.

Mid the clang of heavy hammer,

Screech of file, and bellows' roar,
Faster works the smith and faster
On the hot and dusty floor.

He has wrought with fierce devotion.

And at last his task is done,
Down he casts his heavy hammer,

Forth he walks into the sun.
Antwerp's spire, so graceful tapering,

Rich in tracery towards the sky,
Ne'er attracts his sad attention,
Fix'd upon a casement nigh.

" Cursed be the clang of hammer.

Screech of files and bellows' voice,
Since it keeps me from my lover.
From the maiden of my choice ! "

Suddenly his face upbrighten'd.

Gone the sadness — brow unknit,
As a thought of hope came o'er him,

He might win his mistress yet.

tT y^ Tf^ TF y^

Silent soon the heavy hammer.
Cold the fire, untrod the floor,

Rusty gi-ows the Blacksmith's anvil,
Cobwebs tie the smithy door.

A month has fled, and who comes now
With a lightsome tread and a joyous brow?
He enters the home of the maiden fair, -»
He lifts the latch, and he mounts the stair, >

o there : — J

Seeking her fathei"'s atudk

QUENTYN MATSTS' WELL.

" The Blacksmith ! "What ? — you know my vow ?"
" No blacksmith — but A Painter now ; —
Behold my work — behold your son,
Learn what the force of love has done ! "

Before the father's startled gaze

See now a picture stand,
Rich in the limner's every grace.

Wrought by a Master's hand.

" Love a miracle has wrought.

Love a miracle has done,
Blacksmith he my daughter sought.
Painter he has won :

Call the maiden to my side,
QuENTYN Matsys take your bride."

And this story of true love

Wlieu the Antwerp gossips tell,
Still, in token of its truth.

They point to Matsys' well.
Though the Painter and his spouse

Ages since to dust have gone.
Still the iron that he wrought

Canopies the stone.
If the Legend runs aright,

A Phantom comes at dead of night,
Plies the Blacksmith's dingy trade,

Aaid fills the seams that Time has made.
There until our day it stands,

Still preserv'd by elfin hands,
Still its curves fantastic tell

How Love wbought a Miracle. *

QUENTTN MATSYS' WELL.

* " The monument of Matsys himself, exhibiting his portrait in bas-relief, together with his
arms and epitaph, may be seen attached to the wall of the western front of the cathedral of
Antwerp, at the foot of the great tower, and immediately opposite to the iron frame of the fountain.
Under the portrait is this inscription : " Quintino Metsiis, incomparabilis artis pictori, admiratrix
grataque posteritas anno post obitum s^eculari cia. lo. c. xxxix posuit." On another stone is the

following line : ■

" Connubialis amor de Mulcibre fecit Apellem."

THE RHINE BOOK,

When Rubens, Quentyn Matsys, and the other painters whose names and
works are associated with the Cathedral, have received their meed of admiration,

the Traveller will
scarcely fail to remark
another feature of the
edifice. The Carver, as
well as the Painter and
the Architect, has helped
to complete the effect of
the Gothic churches of
Belgium ; and in Ant-
werp still remain many
of the most elaborate
works of the chisel. For
the eye that loves a Go-
thic interior this adds
greatly to the interest of
the Flemish places of
worship. The Wood-
Carver is the only proper
Sculptor for a Gothic
edifice : marble is too cold
and classic, and harmo-
nises but indifferently
with the grotesque and
elaborate decorations of
an ancient chapel. The
pulpit and the confession-
als of Antwerp Cathedral
afford proof of the skill and
industry expended upon
oak carvings in this countiy in old times ; and the stalls in the choir show that
the Belgians of our day are not willing to be outdone by their forefathers in
zealous attention to the decoration of their religious edifices.

When the buildings, the pictures, and the carvings have been admired, the
Traveller should close his eyes, if he desires to retain a favourable impression of
the religion and of the people. He should not see thejripperi/ of the churches ; the
dolls, the tinsel, the flounced petticoats, and " Bartlemy " finery. If, howevei', he is
a student of human nature, as well as an admirer of the arts, he can then note the
number of kneeling penitents before a greasy collection of half-burned candles, as

ANTWERP CArHEURAL,

RELIGION LN ANTAVERP.

they " gutter" away in sickly-looking waste during the broad daylight before some
decked-out wooden Virgin or wax saint. He may visit also " the Calvary," with
its theatrical array of flames, saints, and evangelists ; and, peeping through the
iron grating of the sham sepulchre, may behold " the Tomb of the Crucifixion,"
with its collection of gold and silver offerings made by the devout.

THE CALVARYj ANTWERP.

In a gloomy cave, dimly visible in the half light, lies a figure intended to repre-
sent Christ. The face and hands only are seen, the body being covered by a
cere-cloth. Small silver crosses, embossed hearts, crucifixes, and trinkets of
various shapes lie upon the figure, and hang suspended beside it, whilst an empty
lamp, similarly complimented by devotees, hangs above. The stone upon which
the worshippers kneel, when they come to pray before this waxen Saviour, is
worn hollow by human knees ! More than a century ago a poet said : —

" When Superstition (bane of manly virtues)
Strikes root within the soul ; it over-iuns
And kills the power of reason."

THE RHDTE BOOK.

Let the Traveller draw his own conclusions ; but, if they be unfavourable to the
religion which makes such displays, let him remember that Belgium is at present
" the most Catholic country in Europe ; " and that to give utterance to sentiments
inimical to the faith of the land he has come to see, is — to say the best of it —
bad taste. His opinions are his own ; let his tongue be his own also, and let him
hold it fast.

p ■■>'

CAJIVED OAK. PULFIT, — ftSlWERF CA.TBJ£URAX.

INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER.

1 Cathedral.

2 St. Jacques.

3 St. Paul.

4 St. Andrf.

5 St. Augustin.

6 St. Charles.

7 St. Antoine.

8 St. Joseph.

9 French Chapel.

10 Exchange.

1 1 Great Theatre.

12 Varietes' Theatre.

13 Town House.

14 Museum.

15 Civil Hospital.
Ifi Bank. ■

17 Post Office.

18 Horse Post.

19 Rubens' House.

20 Government House.

21 Military Hospital.

22 King^s Palace.

23 Beguinage.

24 Botanical Garden.

25 Anseatic House.

ANTWERP.

CHIEF THINGS TO BE SEEN IN ANTWERP.

1. The Cathedral, (one of the most splendid
Gothic works in existence,) with pictures by
Rubens, Vandyke, and others.

2. The Church of St. Jacques — Pictures by
Rubens and Vandyke, and tomb of Rubens.

3. Rubens' House.

4. The Church of St. Paul — Paintings —
the Calvary.

5. The Church of the Augustines — Pictures
by Rubens, Vandyke, and Jordaens.

6. The Museum — Collection of Paintings.

7. The Statue of Rubens.

8. The Citadel.

Post Ofpice. — Chief post office, Place

Verte; branch offices; 1. at the corner of the
Place des Fa9ons ; 2. Fosses aux Crapauds,
opposite the Rue de I'Empereur ; 3. Place de
Meir, at the corner of the Rue du Chene ; 4. at
the Petit-Marche.

Theatres. — Royal Theatre, open Sunday,
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Comedies,
dramas, grand operas, comic ditto, burlesques.
Price of admittance: 1st boxes and stalls, 3
francs 50 cents ; 2nd boxes and parquet, 2 francs
50 cents ; Pit boxes, 2 francs ; Pit, 1 franc 50
cents.

Theatre des Varietes, Place St. George.
Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday. Secondary
style comedies and vaudevilles. Price of ad-
mittance : 1st boxes, 2 francs ; 1st gallery and

THE RHINE BOOK.

parquet, 1 franc 50 cents ; 2nd boxes, 1 franc ;
Pit, 75 cents.

Private Clubs. — The Philotaxe, Rue des
Tanneurs; the Union, Place Verte; Chess
Club, Place de Meir; the William Tell, Rue
Leopold ; Military Club, Place Verte. Stran-
gers are admitted on being presented by a
member.

Hackkey Coaches. — Vigilantes, Place
Verte; Place de Meir; Fare within the walls
50 cents (5rf. Eng. ) ; by the hour, 1 franc 25
cents the 1st hour, and 1 franc each ensuing
hour.

Antwerp, in Flemish Antwerpen, the chief
town of the province of that name, is situated in
a plain 51° 13' 16" N. latitude, and 2° 3' 55"
East longitude, 20 leagues from the sea, on the
right bank of the Scheldt.

The Scheldt, in Flemish Schelde, the largest
of the two rivers of Belgium, rises in France,
near the Castelet (department of the Aisne),
receives the canal of St. Quentin at Cambrai,
passes under the walls of Bouchain, Valen-
ciennes and Conde, and enters Belgium after
its junction with the Scarpe : it waters the
western part of the province of Hainault, runs
to Tournay, Esquelmes, and Herinnes, where it
forms the limit between Hainault and West
Flanders ; it then divides the latter from East
Flanders, runs towards the N. E. by Oudenarde
and Ghent : suddenly changing its direction
from west to east, it waters Wetteren and
Dendermond ; it then bounds West Flanders
and the province of Antwerp : at the fort of
Bath it divides itself into two considerable
branches; the southern, under the name of West
Scheldt (Hond or Wester Schelde), takes a
westerly direction across the southern part of
Zealand, and falls into the north sea below
Flushing, where it is 3 leagues and a half in
breadth.

The other branch, called the Eastern Scheldt
(Ooster Schelde), flows first to the N. E., on
the limits of North Brabant and Zealand, turns
towards the W. N. W., in the north of the first
of these provinces, and falls into the North Sea

by an opening 2 leagues and a half wide, 5
leagues N. N. E. from the West Scheldt. The
course of the Scheldt is 86 leagues, of which
about 13 compose the course just described;
its course in the province of Antwerp is II
leagues. The water is salt as far as the forts
of Lillo (15 leagues from its mouth); the
water is fresh at Antwerp, but too thick to be
drunk. The tide is perceivable in the Scheldt,
as far up as Ghent ; thus it influences the river
even as far as 40 leagues above its mouth.

History. — Antwerp is in the form of a
drawn bow, the string of which would be the
Scheldt. Its origin is obscure and fabulous,
like that of most ancient cities. According to
an old tradition, there existed, about the time
that Caesar entered Belgium, a giant named
Antigon, who demanded from all the merchants
who went up the river a certain part of their
merchandise; and when any one deceived him as
to the value, he not only confiscated the whole
of the goods, but he also cut off the merchant's
hand and threw it into the Scheldt. A certain
Salvius Brabon, or Brabant, killed the giant,
after having made him undergo the same
punishment ; thence the castle in which the
giant resided received the name of Antwerpen,
from the Flemish words Hand, a hand, and
Werpen, to cast. Notwitlistanding the fabu-
lous derivation of this origin, the remembrance
of the giant has been preserved ; his statue
figures in all solemn processions ; and in the
arms of the town may be seen two hands, and a

triangular castle St. Amand built the church

of St. Peter and St. Paul at Antwerp in the
7th century, and St. Eloy came to preach
there about the year 646. The Normans burnt
the town in 837, and in 885 they rtbuilt a
castle near the Werf, a door and three towers
of which still exist, though concealed by some
houses, built since 1480.

Trade. — Antwerp was under the yoke of
the kings of France until 977. In 1124 the
town was already very populous and extensive,
but it was only about the beginning of the 16th
century that it took a regular form ; from that
period it rapidly increased, and soon became

ANTWERP.

the general mart of the North, the South, and
the East : its population exceeded 200,000
souls; it contained 300 painters and 140 gold-
smiths ; 5000 merchants daily assembled on
the exchange ; 500 vessels came up the Scheldt
to it every day ; a single tide frequently used
to bring up 400, and 2500 were usually at
anchor before the town, whilst 500 carriages
daily conveyed thither the merchandise of
France and Germany. The merchants of
Antwerp were so rich, that Charles V., having
one day vouchsafed to accept of an invitation to
dinner, at the house of one of them named
Daens, who had lent him 2,000,000 of florins,
the merchant put the emperor's note into the
fire, at the end of the feast, saying to him, " 1
am overpaid by the honour your Majesty has
conferred upon me to-day." This state of
prosperity ceased at the period of the wars of
religion ; the Iconoclasts pillaged the churches,
and destroyed the images; that of the Virgin
was insulted at the procession of August 15,
1566, and there was much blood shed in the
streets ; ten years afterwards Antwerp was
pillaged by the Spaniards, who burnt 500
houses, destroyed the town-hall, a master-piece
of architecture, and killed 10,000 citizens.

Sieges. — The siege which Antwerp withstood
in 1485 against the Prince of Parma is one of the
most celebrated in history. The bridge thrown
by the prince over the Scheldt, and the machines
he made use of, were astonishing. Antwerp
yielded to the French in 1792; they left it the
next year, but re-took it in 1794; it then be-
came the chief town of the department of the
Deux-Nethes. In 1809 the English attempted
to burn the dockyards and vessels, but were
repulsed; in 1814 they endeavoured to take
possession of the town, but General Carnot,
who was the commandant, only gave it up to
the allies after the treaty of Paris. It belonged
to the kingdom of the Netherlands until the
revolution of 1830, as the chief town of the
department of the same name. It is known
that in 1832 the French and Belgians attacked
the citadel occupied by the Dutch, and that
this memorable siege ended December 23, by

the capitulation of the besieged, after a siege of
24 days.

Present State. — Antwerp has now a popu-
lation of 78,000 inhabitants ; the width of the
greater part of its streets, the number of its
public squares, the vastness of the basins of its
port, the splendour of its churches, the beauty
of its buildings, the elegance of its numerous
mansions and private residences, render it one
of the most remarkable towns in Europe.
Among the principal squares worth notice are
the Town Hall, the Place Verte, the Place
Ste. Walburge, between the quays of Vandyke
and of Jordaens, and the Place de Meir ; the
latter is formed by the sudden widening of a
fine large street of the same name ; it contains
the king's palace, the interior of which is orna-
mented with fine paintings ; Napoleon had it
sumptuously furnished. The king lodges there
when he comes to Antwerp.

The Cathedral may certainly claim to rank
third in Europe in scale of magnificence. The
spire is variously estimated at 370 to 450 feet
in height ; and its true altitude is certainly
400 feet. In lightness and elegance it surpasses
all its compeers ; and as it decreases from story
to story as it ascends, its beauty becomes more
striking, whilst the graceful richness of its ap-
pearance calls to mind the graphic comparison
of Buonaparte, that it looked like Mechlin lace.
The construction of the spire was commenced
in 1422, and it took nearly a century to com-
plete It. It has a peal of the bells (Carillons)
for which Belgium is remarkable. The prin-
cipal one weighs 16,000 lbs. ; and the report is,
that the strength of sixteen men is reijuired to
ring it. The interior is as remarkable for its
decoration, as the exterior for its magnificence :
statues, pictures, carvings in wood, lamps, can-
delabra, and the other adjuncts of Romish wor-
ship, are there in profusion. The vast dimen-
sions of the building are seen to best advantage
from tlie organ-loft, from whence to the high
altar the distance is 500 feet ; the breadth is
240 feet, and the height of the roof is 360 feet.
The chief aisle is one of the largest known,
the side aisles are double, and two smaller aisles

THE RHINE BOOK.

terminate at the cross-aisle. Before the French
revolution these smaller aisles were ornamented
with 32 marble altars, pictures and ornaments
of great value : there were 100 chandeliers of
massive silver, four altar fronts of the same
metal, and a remonstrance of massive gold,
which several sovereigns had been pleased to
enrich with diamonds. The church of Notre
Dame was raised to the rank of a cathedral by
Pope Paul IV. in 1569; Pius VII. suppressed
the bishopric of Antwerp in 1802 ; Notre
Dame, which then became a mere cure of the
first class, dependent on the archbishopric of
Mechlin, has nevertheless retained the title of a
cathedral. The pictures of Rubens are the
most admirable ornament of the edifice ; the
reputation of the Descent from the Cross is
universal ; it has often been engraved. Two
anecdotes with respect to this picture are
current. Rubens wished to alter the arrange-
ment of his house, which was contiguous to
that of the company of gunsmiths ; the latter,
perceiving that Rubens encroached upon their
ground, made a demand upon him ; Rubens
maintained his right ; a long lawsuit was about
to take place, when the burgomaster Rockox,
his friend, proposed an arrangement which was
agreed to. The ground in question was ceded
to Rubens on condition that he would paint
an altar-piece for the company, with shutters,
intended for the gunsmiths' chapel in the ca-
thedral : the picture was to represent St. Chris-
toplie, their patron saint. As the name of
Christophe signifies, according to the Greek
etymology, " to bear Christ," Rubens singularly
enough imagined a picture in which all the
figures should concur in bearing Christ, and he
painted his Descent from the Cross : upon the
shutters, by a similar allegory, he represented
the Visitation, in which the Holy Virgin, in her
pregnancy, also bears Christ ; and the Presen-
tation at the Temple, with tlie high priest
Simeon bearing tlie child Jesus in his arms.
But the gunsmiths wanted a Saint Christophe,
and not an allegorical picture ; and a new law-
suit would have taken place, if Rul)ens had
not consented to paint a colossal figure of

St. Christophe on the exterior of one of the
shutters. It is also said, with respect to the
same master-piece, that during the great
master's usual walk, his pupils having obtained
his servant's permission to enter his paint-
ing room, one of them, being pushed by
another, fell on the picture, and eflfaced the arm
of Mary Magdalene, and the cheek and chin
of the Virgin that Rubens had just finished.
It is easy to imagine their consternation ; how-
ever, it was necessary to repair the misfortune ;
they prevailed upon the one whom they all
considered as the most able ; and the accident
was so well repaired, that next day Rubens said,
in the presence of his pupils, " Here are a head
and arm which are not the worst part of my
yesterday's work." That pupil was Vandyke.

After having admired the Descent from the
Cross, on crossing the church, we find another
picture by Rubens, every way worthy of the
great artist ; it represents the Elevation on the
Cross ; it was painted for the church of Ste.
Walburge ; the boldness of the composition is
only to be equalled by the beauty of the draw-
ing and the brilliancy of the colouring. These
two pictures, which were taken away by the
French during their dominion, were returned
after the treaty of 1815. The Assumption of
the Holy A^irgin, by the same artist, next
attracts our attention ; it is over the grand
altar ; it is one of his most magnificent compo-
sitions ; this great painting was executed in 16
days, and paid for at the rate of 100 florins per
day, the usual rate at which Rubens valued his
works. The ceiling of the elegant cupola over
the arch at the entrance of the choir also repre-
sents a picture of the Assumption, by C. Schut,
a pupil of Rubens. The cathedral is orna-
mented by other pictures ; there are remarkable
works by Herreins, Martyn-Pcpyn, Diepen-
beck, and Otto Venius, who was Rubens'
master ; by Martin Vos, &c., and magnificent
sculptures from the chisel of du Quesnoy,
Verbruggen, &c. Over the portico there is a
tower to whicli nothing can be compared for
lightness and elegance.

The Church of St. Jacques is a grand and

ANTWERP,

imposing edifice, and contains a great number
of monuments and valuable objects, which have
b}' rare good fortune escaped the ravages of the
civil wars. Few churches present the curiosity
of the enlightened traveller with so great a
number of pictures and sculptures ; the former
by the most celebrated Flemish masters, among
whom are Vandyke, Martin de Vos, Hemling,
Frans- Flore, Otto-Venius, Seghers, and the
latter from the chisels of Verbruggen, Wervoort,
Willemsens, A. Quellyn, &c But what parti-
cularly excites interest is the chapel behind the
grand altar, consecrated to tlie family of Rubens,
and in which is seen his tomb. It is onl^'
marked by a large marble slab, upon which
are engraved his arms and a long inscription ;
but the finest ornament of this chapel is a
picture by the great artist, in which he has
painted his father and his two wives under the
name of St. Jerome, Martha, and JNIagdalene,
his grandfather under the figure of Time, and
his son under that of an angel. He has repre-
sented himself under the name of St. George ;
and in order that every thing about the chapel
may remind us of the great man, the altar is sur-
mounted by a Virgin in marble, a splendid work
by du Quesnoy, brought from Italy by Rubens.
Saint Paul, formerly the church of the
Dominicans, the name of whom it bore, was
founded by Henry III., duke of Brabant, in
1246, destroyed by the lightning in 1679, and
then rebuilt as it is at this day. A series of 15
pictures placed along the nave on the left is
veorthy of attention ; these pictures, by cele-
brated masters, represent the different periods
of the life of Christ and of the Holy Virgin, from
the Annunciation up to the Resurrection and
to the Crowning of Mary in Heaven. The
Flagellation, the Adoration of the Shepherds,
by Rubens, and the Bearing of the Cross, by
Vandyke, are remarkable masterpieces. A
monument shown in a sort of cloister annexed
to the church, and which is called the Calvary,
is a singular representation of the Passion of
Christ, the bad taste of which is, perhaps,
owing to the distant period at which it was
executed. It has several precious carvings.

Saint-Chakles Bokkomee is the old cluucli
of the Jesuits. It contains some fine wood-
work, and a few pictures by Seghers, Schut, dc
Crayer, and Janssens.
j Saint- Andre. — This church contains, be-
sides a few tine paintings, a mausoleum of
marble, erected by two English ladies to the
memory of the unfortunate Mary Queen of
Scots ; it is ornamented with a portrait of that
princess, the colour and expression of which
are good.

Town Hall (Hotel de Ville).— Tlils edi-
fice, built in 1560 and burnt in 1576, was
rebuilt in its present state in 1581 : the front
consists of several orders of architecture, raised
above a rustic basement ; a statue of the
Virgin has replaced, on the top of the building,
the giant to whom was attributed the origin
of Antwerp. In the square, surrounded by
houses built in the Spanish style, is that which
Charles V. used to occupy when he came to
Antwerp. — The Town Hall contains a public
library.

Private Collections. — Few towns possess
so many private collections : the inhabitants of
Antwerp have always shown much taste for
painting ; and it is not rare to find at the
houses of private persons Flemish and Dutch
paintings of the first order ; but some rich
amateurs possess complete galleries, almost all
of them open, with great politeness, to the
curiosity of strangers.

Port The port and docks of Antwerp

were formed by Napoleon; in 1806 two mag-
nificent docks of freestone, able to contain the
one 12, and the other 40 vessels of the line,
were terminated ; a military arsenal and dock-
yards, for the construction of ships of the line,
were opened, and warehouses and barracks
constructed.

Citadel. — Built by the Spaniards in 1568 ;
the fortifications of this town have undergone
several alterations : but the different bastions
still bear names which prove their origin ; the
citadel is divided from the Scheldt by a small
dam, in which there is a sluice, which allows of
the ditches being filled with water, at a mo-

THE RHINE BOOK.

ment's notice. On the left bank of the Scheldt,
and almost opposite to the citadel, is the fort
called the Tete de Flandre, which is in the
commune of Zwyndrecht. A steam-boat crosses
several times a-day from Antwerp.

Celebrated Men. — A number of illustrious
persons, almost all painters, were born at Ant-
werp : Calvaert (Denis), born 1565, died 1619.
— Crayer (Gaspard de), died in 1669. — Rubens
(Peter Paul), whose parents were both from
Ant'verp, but who was born at Cologne,
June 29. 1577, and died May SO- 1640, at
Antwerp, where he had always resided. — Jor-
d lens (James), born 1593, died 1678. — Teniers
(David), born 1610, died 1694. — Vandyke

(Antony), the most celebrated of Rubens's
pupils, and often equal to his master ; born

1599, died 1641 Gramaye (John Baptist),

the historiographer of the Low- Countries, died
1635. — Engelgrave (Henry), a learned Jesuit,
born 1610. — Edelinck (Gerard), a celebrated
engraver, born 1649, died 1707. — Matsys
(Quentin), called the Farrier of Antwerp, on
account of his first profession of a farrier or
blacksmith, died at Antwerp in 1529, aged 79.
— Sadeler ( Giles), an engraver, born 1570, died
1629 Snyders (Francis), a painter and en-
graver, celebrated for his pictures of fruits,
and particularly of animals, born 1587, died
1657.

BELGIAN RAILROADS.

BRUSSELS.

THE RAILROAD TRIP. BRUSSELS. A MORNING AT WATERLOO.

When the Traveller turns his back upon the fortifications of Antwerp on his
way to the train, he quickly discovers the peculiarities of the Belgian railroads.
The low fares, the signals by trumpet instead of bell, the military look of the
servants, the smallness and slightness of the carriages, remind him that he is not
in England, He soon finds, too, how admirably adapted Belgium is for railroads,
its level surface supei'seding all necessity for cuttings, tunnels or viaducts; whilst
the works having been taken up by the government with a view to the general
improvement of the country, instead of by a private company for the purposes of
individual profit, the lines have all been laid down on a wise and uniform system,
and the host of expenses which clog the first movements of a projected I'ailroad in
England have been saved.* No scheming attorneys, no voracious counsel, no

* The Acts of Parliament for the London and Birmingham Railway cost 72,000/. ; the value
of the land and compensations amounted to 706,1 52/. ; and the law charges, engineering, and other
preliminary e.xpenses, were 67,893/, ; so that the total charges, before commencing the works, were
little short of one million sterling. On the Great Western line, the expenses, before obtaining the
Act, were 89,000/., and the parliamentary charges figure in the accounts at 29,104/.

THE RHINE BOOK.

land-jobbers seeking to be bribed, in fact none of the enormous charges incurred
in England before a single rail can be laid. The engineers had a carte blanche
to do what was wisest ; and accordingly Belgium is intersected with lines having
no incubus of debt upon them, and consequently ready to carry the traveller on
his way at less than half the price charged in England. The fares by the third-
class carriages are indeed so low, that the labouring population of the country are
able to 23ay for a journey to market without inconvenience, even from their small
wages. The cost per mile of the Belgian lines, including the compensation for
land and all other charges, was 16,206/. per mile; the cost of the London and
Birmingham line was 48,000/. per mile ! All the lines pass a common centre out-
side the town of Malines, to Avhich every train runs ; and consequently every
passenger must pass this point.

The country from Antwerp to Brussels affords a good idea of Belgium in
general. Its level surface presents, in rapid succession, rich meadows, luxuriant
corn-fields, green hedge-rows, with occasional patches of woodland. The smallness
of the fields tells amongst how many hands the land is divided, and prepares us
for the fact, that East Flanders is the most thickly-peopled corner of Europe.

The exception to this general character of the
scenery is found in the valley of the IMeuse,
where the fruitful serenity of fertile meadows
and pastoral hamlets is varied by bolder, more
' ^ - irregular, and more striking natural features.

Hills and rocks, blulf head-

lands and winding valleys,
with beautiful stretches of
river scenery, give a charm to
the landscape which Belgium
in general does not display.

But let us turn fi-om facts
and figures to the moving
?f^- panorama before us. In rapid
succession we pass various
points worthy of notice. First
comes BERCHEJr — the head-
quarters of the French when
they besieged Antwerp in
1832, and the spot where the
Count dc iNIerode, wliose mo-
nument we shall see in Brus-
sels Cathedral, fell mortally

MALINES.

wounded when pursuing the retreating Dutch in the revolution of 1830. On
our right is Yieux-Dieu, so named from its having been the resting-place of a
pagan idol, which, before Chi-istianity shed its light upon the land, was here
worshipped by thousands of the ancient Belgfe. Cantich station announces
that we are half way to Malines ; and the next point of importance is Duffel,
on the river Nethe, which boasts the fine old Gothic castle of Ter-elst.

]\Ialines, where we soon find ourselves, has many associations for the English-
man. It reminds him of Sterne and his Maria ; of the Duke of IMarlborough,
who was the first to take military possession of this town, which he did in 1704,
and so deprived it of the name it bore before that time of La Pucelle ; whilst
to the lady-traveller it speaks of Mechlin lace.

The tower of the Cathedral of Malines is a fine object ; and the lover of painting,
if he makes time to visit the building, will find within it the finest of Vandyke's
pictures — Christ crucified between Two Thieves. The Church of St. John, not far
from the Cathedral, boasts the favoui-ite, if not the most perfect, composition of
Rubens. That ]\Iaster set great value on the paintings in this church, which com-
prise the IVorship of the Magi, with two painted shutters or wings, and three
other small pictures. " To see my best works," Rubens used to say, " you must
go to St. John of Mechlin." His autograph receipt is still in the vestry, with the
date of March 12th, 1624 : it is for 1800 florins for eight paintings, completed,
it is said, in eighteen days, and valued at his usual rate.

The trumpet soon gives the signal, and Mechlin is behind us as we leave the

province of Antwerp to enter that of Brabant. Vilvorde is the largest place we

pass ; but the most interesting points are indicated by the steeples of Elewyt

and Perck — small rural places, made illustrious by the abode of Rubens and

Teniers. Rubens lived in the old castle of Steen, near Elewyt, and painted

in its rural retreat many of his best

landscapes. Teniers had a country
house at Perck, called the " Three
Toioers" — Dry Toren. The train
stops at Yilvorde, where, just three
centuries ago, William Tyndale, a na-
tive of Gloucestershire, the translator
of the first English version of the
New Testament, was strangled at the
stake as a heretic for rendering the
Scriptures into " a vulgar tongue."
A pious and learned divine, with
great gentleness of heart, but greater
firmness of purpose, he was driven

THE RHINE BOOK.

from his quiet home in the West
of Enghxnd hy the impending
storm of persecution, and finding
that his personal liberty was in
danger, he took ship, and visited
Luther. His translation was com-
pleted and printed at Wittem-
berg, and, in spite of the dangers
incurred, it circulated widely
through England. This success
aggravated the former anger of
Henry the Eighth and Sir Thomas
More, and the Chancellor de-
nounced the absent divine in the
most virulent terms. The ex-

isting epistles of the after-
wards beheaded minister
display a rancour of feeling
but little creditable to his
memory. Great pains were
taken to lure Tyndale back
to his native country, but
he was too wary to trust
specious promises, or hollow
professions for his welfare.
Not so his fellow exile
John Frith, who, in sim-
plicity of spirit, thought the
word of a king when backed
by that of a Chancellor

HOIEL IJE VILLE. BRUSSELS.

might be relied on. He accei)ted More's invitation to England — and was burnt.
Tyndale, however, w ith all his talent, his piety, his learning, and pure heartedness,
was no match for his bigoted enemies. An agent from Henry entrapped him

BRUSSELS. 31

at Antwerp : an accusation of heresy was easily believed when a king and
his minister were witnesses, and the translator of the earliest English version
of the New Testament, — a version largely used in the preparation of our
authorized edition of the Bible, — died by the hands of the executioner at Vil-
vorde. His last words were, " The Lord open the eyes of the King of England."
His body was afterwards burnt at a stake on the spot where the huge prison
now stands — a building which the traveller can scarcely fail to notice, and
which is conducted according to the latest theories of the art of ingeniously tor-
menting by solitary confinement and eternal silence. As we ajjproach Brussels,
we see on the right the palace Laeken, the out-of-town residence of the King,
and memorable as the house in which Napoleon wrought his own ruin by plan-
ning his disastrous campaign of Russia, It was there he signed the declaration
of war against the Czar, and there enjoyed the society of Maria Theresa, the
successor of the amiable, the talented, but deserted Josephine.

Are not these scenes and these facts, and the reflections they call up, enough to
amuse pleasantly the seventy-five minutes occupied by the railroad journey fi*om
Antwerp to Brussels? — where we now are.

Brussels is a double city. The upper town, with its Park, its Palaces, its
Grande Place, its trees, statues, fountains, broad, handsome promenades, gay,
careless population, is, indeed, a " little Paris." Walk down the steep Montagne
de la Cour, and, as you descend, you will find yourself step by step approaching
another and a different city. A short way down the hill, three minutes' walk
to the right, stands the Cathedral of Saint Gudule — a fine monument of the
middle ages ; still lower down, on the left, is the Hotel de Ville, in its square of
tall, gable-fronted, highly-decorated Spanish houses.

On the hill top, five minutes since, you fancied yourself in Paris — for language,
costume, shops, manner, all were French ; at the hill foot, it is quite certain we
ai-e in Flanders. The markets are all hei'e ; and the peasant women bring, with
their fruit, the faces, foi-ms, and costume of the country. In the high town, if you
spoke Flemish, you would be answered in French ; here, if you speak French, you
are answered in Flemish. Standing on one of the bridges which cross the river of
Brussels — the narrow, dirty, and unnavigable Senne — you may fancy yourself in
a by-street in Ghent or Bruges. The same broad, coarse-featured women ; the
same full-bodied, slow-moving men ; the same wooden shoes, and occasional
lonf-eared caps ; the same tall, quaint houses, lumbering carts, and almost the same
air of antiquity and decay which now reigns in those once rich and all-powerful
cities. With the permanent resident, French Brussels soon becomes the favourite ;
to the passing visitor, Flemish Brussels must ever be the most interesting. The
square in which the Hotel de Ville stands is certainly the most perfect instance
of a large mass of Gothic buildings existing in our time, in the precise aspect they

32 THE RHINE BOOK.

displayed when Charles the Fifth of Spain ruled the destinies of the people of this
part of Europe. It was in the centre of this square that the blood of the Counts
Egmont and Horn was slied by command of the cruel Duke Alva, who stood, it is
said, at one of the neighbouring windows, to see the blood of his victims stain the
scaffold. It was in this square also that the Ball was held at which the Duke of
Wellington and liis officers were dancing when the news came that Napoleon
was i-eady for the affray at Waterloo. Btkox has pinned the incident upon the
skirt of Fame.

" There was a sound of revelry by night,

And Belgium's capital had gather'd then

Her beauty and her Chivalry, and bright

The lamps shone o'er fair women and brave men ;

A thousand hearts beat happily ; and when

Music arose with its voluptuous swell.

Soft eyes look'd love to eyes which spake again,

And all went merry as a marriage bell :
But hush ! hark ! a deep sound strikes like a rising knell I

" Did ye not hear it? — -No; 'twas but the wind,

Or the car rattling o'er the stony street:

On with the dance ! let joy be unconfin'd ;

No sleep till morn, when Youth and Pleasure meet

To chase the glowing hours with flying feet —

But, hark I — that heavy sound breaks in once more.

As if the clouds its echo would repeat !

And nearer, clearer, deadlier than before !
Arm ! arm ! it is — it is — the cannon's op'ning roar !

" Within a window'd niche of that high hall

Sate Brunswick's fated chieftain ; he did hear

That sound the first amidst the festival.

And caught its tone, with Death's prophetic ear.

And when they smil'd, l)ecause he deem'd it near;

His heart more truly knew that ))eal too well,

Wliich stretch'd his father on a bloody bier ;

And roiis'd the vengeance blood alone could (piell ;
lie rush'd into the field, and, foremost lighting, fell.

" y\li ! then and there was hurrying to and fro;
And gathering tears, and trenihliiiiis of distress.
And cheeks all pale, which but an hour ago
Blush'd at the praise of their own loveliness:

THE CATHEDRAL OK BRUSSELS. 33

And there were sudden partings, such as press
The life from out young hearts, and choking sighs
Which ne'er might be repeated; who could guess
If ever more should meet those mutual eyes,
Since upon nights so sweet such awful morn could rise?

" And there was mounting in hot haste : the steed,

Tlie must'ring squadron, and the clatt'ring car,

Went pouring forward with impetuous speed.

And swiftly forming in the ranks of war,

And the deep thunder peal on peal afar.

And near, the beat of the alarming drum,

Rous'd up the soldier ere the morning star ;

While throng'd the citizens with terror dumb,
Or whisp'ring with white lips — " The foe ! They come ! they come !"

More interesting still, in one of the chief chambers of the Hotel cle Ville, a
tapestried room is still open to the traveller, in which Charles the Fifth abdicated
his throne ; willingly resigning, by one great mental effort, an amount of power
often sought, but seldom gained by one man.

The inscription on the old building opposite the Town Hall, in large golden
letters — ^^ A peste,fa>ne, et hello libera nos, 3Iaria pads !" — is said to refer to a
plague and famine which depopulated the city at the end of the fifteenth century.

The Cathedral does not greatly interest the traveller who has just left Antwerp,
its painted glass being the only feature it may boast of as superior to the attrac-
tions of the churches of that city. It is, however, a very fine building ; and those
who have the strength and the will to wind up the tortuous stairs leading to the top
of the tower are rewarded for their pains by an extensive view of the country —
a view, however, not equal to that presented to the eye from the summit of the
Hotel de Ville. Like all cathedrals, this one has a patron saint in St. Gudule ; as
the legend runs, a holy virgin daughter of a Flemish noble, born some twelve
hundred years ago, at Vilvorde. Like all Saint Patronesses, the story of her life is
filled with marvels too strong for the slender faith of this our later generation.
Her holy life began as early as the age of twelve, when she subjected her
youthful body, by nature delicate, to the penances and mortifications which form
so prominent a pai't of the duty of all candidates for canonisation. Long nights
were spent in prayer ; and when, on her way to the chapel, her lamp was extin-
guished, it was re-lighted in answer to her supplications. Various were the
miracles she wrought. A wild youth sought to ravish a kiss from her saintly
lips, when a column of the church opened at her command, and received her
within its stony protection until the abashed suitor departed. Her charity was
unparalleled, and her Ave Marias unnumbered ; and, at her death, prayers at her
tomb worked miracles. When the Norman invaders sacked the place, her body

THE IIIIINE BOOK.

was stolen as the richest prize which the convent of Moselle could yield, and
taken to Liege ; but half a century afterwards it was restored to Brussels. A

brother of Kins: Lothair of
F'rance, some years after-
wards, had the temei-ity to
seek sight of the saint's face ;
but when his willing vassals
sought to open St. Gudule's
coiBn, a thick black smoke
came forth so rapidly that
nothing could be seen ; and
the aftrighted prince closed
the sepulchre, shouting
" another miracle." Such are
the stories of the lives of the
Romish saints, and such the
tales which, in the nine-
teenth century, the Romish
priesthood call on their flocks
to believe — and in many
cases they do believe them.

High mass is a fine sight
at all times, but it has an
unusual magnificence in this
cathedral. Round about the
choir, high up, are ranged
the hei'aldic shields of the
Knights of the Golden
Fleece, in memory of chap-
ters of the Order held here
by Philip the Good and by
Charles tlie Fii'th ; wliilst the
nave is distinguislied by
twelve colossal statues of the
Apostles, ranged far above
the heads of the kneeling votaries below. Tlic pulpit is a remarkable work, irom
the chisel of the great Flemish artist Verbruggen, the Canova of wood-carvers.
Its subject is the Expulsion of Adam and Eve from the garden of Paradise.

BHUSEiEm CAlQEUaAL.

H And tliey licard tlic voice of the Loan God walk'm;; in the f;ar(K'n in tlu- cool of tlic day ; and

WATEKLOO. 35

Adam and his wife hid themselves from the prestnce of the Lord God amongst the trees of the
garden.

9 And the Lord God called unto Adam, and said unto him, Where art thou ?

10 And he said, I heard thy voice in the garden, and I was afraid, because I was naked ; and I
hid myself.

1 1 And he said. Who told thee that thou wast naked ? Hast thou eaten of the tree, whereof I
commanded thee that thou shouldest not eat?

12 And the man said, The woman whom thou gavest to he with me, she gave me of the tree,
and I did eat.

13 And the Lord God said unto the woman. What is this that thou hast done? And the
woman said, The serpent beguiled me, and I did eat.

14 And the Lord God said unto the serpent. Because thou hast done this, thou art cursed
above all cattle, and above every beast of the field ; upon thy belly shalt thou go, and dust shalt
thou eat all the days of thy life.

17 And unto Adam he said. Because thou hast hearkened unto the voice of thy wife, and hast
eaten of the tree, of which I commanded thee, saying. Thou shalt not eat of it : cursed is the
ground for thy sake ; in sorrow shalt thou eat of it all the days of thy life ;

18 Thorns also and thistles shall it bring forth to thee; and thou shalt eat the herb of the
field.

19 In the sweat of thy face shalt thou eat bread, till thou return unto the ground ; for out of it
wast thou taken : for dust thou art, and unto dust shalt thou return.

» * » * * m m

2,3 Therefore the Loun God sent him forth from the garden of Eden, to till the ground from
whence he was taken.

Genesis, Chap. III.

From Brussels itself, the attention of the Englishman is soon turned towards
Waterloo. The field on which the destinies of Napoleon and of Europe were
decided will always have an historical interest of its own ; but by the native of
our " sea-girt isle," that interest must ever be felt with " thrice threefold " force.
It flatters our national pride, to reflect that the troops of England gave the final
and the fatal blow to the mightiest of modern conquerors, — to the self- created
Emperor, whose power was grounded upon the ruins of the thrones of Europe :
hence the tens of thousands of Englishmen who have visited the field, and hence
the constant enquiry of the English at Brussels, " Have you been to Waterloo
yet ? " Not that there is anything to see beyond a few monuments and some fine
corn fields : but is there more at Marathon, at Thermopylae ? On a fine day the
drive through the forest of Soignies is agreeable, and the pleasure of the trip is
enhanced by the recollection that the ground has been well trodden by all our
best modern poets, novelists, statesmen, and soldiers. Byron, with allowable
licence, converts Soignies into Ardennes, and the beauty of the stanza would com-
pensate a thousand such liberties taken with the dry facts of the geographer.
After recounting the hasty departure of troops from Brussels, Childe Harold says :

THE UHINE i;OOK.

Jr;CERAl-

" Ardennes waves above them her green leaves,

Dewy with nature's tear-drops, as they pass.

Grieving, if aught inanimate e'er grieves,

Over the iinretiirning brave, — alas !

Ere evening to be trodden like the grass

Which now l)eneatli them, but above shall grow

In its next verdure, when this fiery mass

Of living valour, rolling on the foe
And burning with high hope, shall moulder cold and low."

Walter Scott is said to have gone tlirongh the forest broatliing great guns
against Bonaparte, whilst Soutiiey, who was at "Waterloo before either Byron or
Sir Walter, has left us in rhyme a good guide to the field. With the Laureate's
poetry, and Serjeant Cotton's prose, the tourist will have all he requires. The
Serjeant, it may be well to say, is an old English soldier now living upon the field
where he once fought, and earning an honest penny by " fighting the battle o'er
aofain " for the information and amusement of all who seek his services as Guide.
Under his guidance the Traveller should see the place occu[)ied by the Duke as
his Head- quarters, and should note well the points where the fight was thickest.
The poet gives his description in a very business-like manner, and his rhymes
with a few illustrative .sketches will give a faitliful and lasting impression of
Wiitcrloo.

"WATERLOO.

W> ].Lir-;CV10N 3 HEaU-'iC AKTERS AT WATF.RLOO.

" Southward from Brussels lies the field of blood,
Some three hours' journey for a well-girt man ;
A horseman who in haste pursued his road
Would reach it as the second hour began.
The way is through a forest deep and wide.
Extending many a mile on either side.

" No cheerful woodland this of antique trees,

With thickets varied and with sunny glade ;
Look where he will, the weary traveller sees

One gloomy, thick, impenetrable shade
Of tall straight trunks, which move before his siglit,
With interchange of lines of long green light.

" Here, where the woods receding from the road

Have left on either hand an open space

For fields and gardens, and for man's abode.

Stands Waterloo ; a little lowly place.
Obscure till now, when it hath risen to fame,
And given the victory its English name.

THE RHINE BOOK.

Behold the scene where Slaughter had full sway !

A mile before us lieth INIount St. John,
The hamlet which the Highlanders that day

Preserv'd from spoil ; yet as much farther on
The single farm is plac'd, now known to fame,
Wliich from the sacred hedge derives its name.

nODviOnMONT

" Straight onward yet for one like distance more,
And there the house of Belle Alliance stands,
So nam'd, I guess, by some in days of yore,

In friendship or in wedlock joining liands :
Little did they who call'd it thus foresee
The place that name should hold in liistory !

" Beyond these points the fight extended not, —
Small theatre for such a tragedy !
Its l)readth scarce more, from eastern Piipclot

To where the groves of Ilougouniont on high
Rear in the west their venerable head,
And cover witli their shado the countless dead.

WATERLOO.

0^'-!

GiRl'PN WAI.I. Oh caAlEiO HODGODMONT

" But wouldsl, thou truad this celebrated ground,
And trace with understanding eyes a scene
Above all other fields of war renown'd,

From western Ilougoumont thy way begin ;
There was our strength on that side, and there first,
In all its force, the storm of battle burst.

" Strike eastward then across towards La Haye,

The single farm : with dead the fields between
Are lin'd, and thou wilt see upon the way

Long wave-like dips and swells which intervene,
Such as would breathe the war-horse, and impede.
When that deep soil was wet, his martial speed.

When thou hast reach'd La Haye, survey it well
Here was the heat and centre of the strife ;

This point must Britain hold whate'er befell.
And here both armies were profuse of life :

Once it was lost, — and then a stander by

Belike had trembled for the victory.

TllK HHINE BOOK.

T.i BFtI.^_ AI.II^NCE.

" La Haye, bear witness ! sacred is it hight,

And sacred is it truly from that day ;
For never braver blood was spent in fight

Than Britain here hath mingled with the clay.
Set where thou wilt thy foot, thou scarce canst tread
Here on a spot unhallow'd by the dead.

" Here was it that the Highlanders withstood
The tide of hostile power, receiv'd its weight
M'ith resolute strengtli, and stenun'd and turn'd the flood

Anil fitly here, as in that Grecian strait.
The funeral stone might say. Go, traveller, tell
Scotland, that in our dutv here we fell.

" Still eastward from this point thy way pursue.
There grows a single hedge along the lane, —
No other is there far or near in view :

I'he raging enemy essay'd in vain
'J"o pass that line, — a braver foe witiistood, '
And tliis whole ground was moisten'd with tlui'' lilood.

AVATERLOO.

VIEW OF LA HATE SMNTS

" Leading his gallant men as he was wont,
The hot assailant's onset to repel,
Advancing hat in hand, here in the front

Of battle and of danger, Picton fell ;
Lamented Chief! than whom no braver name
His country's annals shall consign to fame.

" Hence to the high-wall'd house of Pai)elot,

The battle's boundary on the left, incline;
Here thou seest Frischermont not far remote,

From whence, like ministers of wrath divine,
The Prussians issuing on the yielding foe.
Consummated their great and total overthrow.'"

The number of men engaged in the Battle of Waterloo is often a subject of dis-
cussion, and the accounts given on the spot are generally incorrect. The zealous
patriot sees with a magnifying glass the force opposed to his countrymen, — feeling,
if he does not confess, that to exaggerate the power of the enemy is to heighten
the glory of a victory, or palliate the disgrace of a defeat. Both sides have
played with figures until the question of the comparative forces on the 18th of
June seems to many a riddle beyond solution. The truth stands thus : — total
strength of the English and their allies in the field during the campaign — In-
fantry, 82,062 ; Cavalry, 14,482; Artillery, 8,166; Engineers and waggon train,

THE RIIUCE BOOK.

,-. ^

1,240 : total, 105,950. This number being engaged in the operations of the war is

the number stated by the French
t^^^ to have been present when Na-
poleon was defeated. Not so.
The total strength of the English
and their allies on the 18th of
June, was, — Infantry, 49,608 ;
Cavalry, 12,402 ; Ai'tillery,
5,645 : Total, 67,655, with 156
pieces of artillery. The French
troops opposed to tliis force were
only a part of the army which
Napoleon then had in the cam-
paign, and amounted to 71,947
men, with 246 pieces of ord-
nance. The Infantry numbered
48,950; the cavalry 15,765; the
artillery 7,232. Thus Napoleon
had the best array of cavalry
and guns ; Wellington the best
body of infantry. About ten

thousands of these were left to flatten the field of "Waterloo.

I'eceived

" into her silent womb

CUCRCU AT \va;e ;loo

Our great mother

Her slaughter'd creatures : horse and man they lay.
And friend and foe, within the general tomb.
Equal had been their lot ; one fatal day
For all, — one labour, — and one place of rest
They found within their common parent's breast."

::=^?<^^

INTERCILVrTER FOR THE TRAVELLER.

.--JP

iJi^ai

"' i!&~ivj^,"^;lt '["}^--~~-_, \ii','<riCi£liiiF.rj{

1 Botanical Garden.

2 Porte d'Anvers.

3 Porte d'A lli?e A'erte.

4 Porte du Kivape.

5 Hospice des \'ieillards.

fi Church of Notre Dame Finisterre.
7 Hospice du Pacheco.
S Porte de Schaerbeck.
9 Porte de I^ouvain.

10 Salle des Concerts.

1 1 Palais de la Nation.
VI Cathedral.

13 Foundling Hospital.

14 Hospital.

15 Chamber of Commerce.

16 Theatre Royal.

17 Post Office.

IS Protestant Church.

19 Church of St. Jean du B^guinage.

20 Church of St. Catherine.

21 Porte de Flandre.
'.i2 Porte de Ninove.

23 Church of St. Clair.

24 Church N. D. de Bon Sccours.

25 ("hurch of St. Nicholas.

26 Hotel de V'ille.

27 Hospital of St. Jein.

28 Theatre Kojal ilu Pare.

29 Palace of the Prince of Orange.
50 King's Palace.

31 Athenaeum.

32 Church of St. .Taques.

33 Palais des Arts et de iTndustrie.

34 Musee des Sciences et Belles Lettres.
.35 Church N. D. des V'ictoires.

36 Palais de. Justice.

37 Church Saints .lean et Etienne Minimos,

38 Porte de Namur.

39 Porte de Hal.

BRUSSELS.

Travellers arriving by the railroad will, on
quitting the station, find omnibus and other
coaches to convey them and their luggage to
their destination. Fare \ franc.

Hotels.

Hotel de Bellevue, Place Royale.

Hotel de I'Europe, Place Royale.

Hotel de Flandre, Place Royale.

Hotel de la Regence, near the Park, the
Palace, the Museum, and other Public Build-
inss.

Hotel des Etrangers et Imperial reunis, rue
des Fripiers.

Hotel de Suede, rue de TEveque.

Hotel Royal, Rue des Fripiers, 17., situated
in centre of town, near the Tlieatre, Exchange,
and Post Office.

Hotel de I'Univers, by Pleron de Mayer,
Longue Rue Neuve. The servants here speak
English, French, German, and Dutch.

Barnard's English Hotel, (the only one in
Brussels,) 17. Rue de la Putterie.

THK KlUXK BOOK.

CHIEF THINGS TO BE SKF.N AT UKtSSEI-S.

The Town Hall daily, from 10 till 5, (gratis).

The Cathedral and other Catholic Churches
daily (gratis), from 5 a. m. till noon. The
Foundling is near the Cathedral.

The Museum (gratis), every Sunday, Monday,
and Thursday, from 10 till 3.

Public Library, for admission apply to the
librarian.

The Due d'Aremberg's Palace daily, l)y
applying to the porter, and producing a pass-
port.

Place des Martyrs.

The Botanical Gardens (gratis), every Tues-
day, Thursday, and Saturday, from 10 till 3.

Tiie two Houses of Parliament daily, from

10 till 3.

The King's Palace may be viewed during his
Majesty's absence.

Waterloo.

Principal Coffef-'Hoiises. — Mille Colonnes;
Suisse, Place de la Monnaie ; Trois Suisses,
Rue des Princes.

Public Baths. — Bains Leopold, Rue des
Trois Tetes ; bains Sainte Elizabeth, petite
Rue de I'Ecuyer; bains Saint Sauveur, Mon-
tagne aux Herbes Potageres ; bains Saint
Georges, Rue des Alexiens.

Post Office. — General direction and prin-
cipal letter box. Rue de I'Evequc. The latest
delivery at a quarter past five in the evening.

Branch Offices. — At the King's palace ;
Montague de la Cour, 44. ; Rue de I'Etuve,
20. ; Rue Haute, 155. ; Rue Trenrenberg, 13. ;
Rue de Schaerbeck, 117.; Rue de Elandres, 24. ;
Rue des Sables, 19. The letters are taken up
at those offices -at 5 a.m. and 2 p.m.

Hacknky Coacuf.s. — Principal stands. Place
Royale ; Grande Place ; Place de la Monnaie ;
Place du S.iblon ; Place de la ChanccUerie ;
Place de St. Gcry ; Place de Bavierc ; Place
d'Anvers ; Porte de Laeken ; Place du Samcdi ;
Place du Marche aux Grains : outside the gates
of Schaerbeck, Namur, and Louvain.

Price of coach fares. — Hackney coaches, per
course, 1 franc 50 cents ; by the hour, first,

2 francs ."JO cents, each ensuing hour, 1 franc
60 cents : vigilantes, per course, 1 franc ; by
the hour, first, 2 francs, each ensuing hour, 1
franc 50 cents. A subscription of 15 francs
for 20 tickets may be taken to the Vigilantes,
which tickets are each considered as equivalent
to 1 franc, and taken as such in payment either
of the hour or the ride.

Theatiies. — Royal Theatre, Place de la
Monnaie ; it is open during the whole thea-
trical year, every day except Saturday, for the
porformance of comedies, dramas, comic operas,
grand operas, and ballets. Price of admittance,
I st boxes, balcon and orchestra stalls, 5 francs ;
galleries, 2d boxes, parquet and boxes on the
ground floor, 3 francs 50 cents ; 3d boxes, 2
francs 15 cents; 4th boxes and i)it, 1 franc
60 cents. Park Theatre (Th^-atre du Pare),
is open on S;iturdays and Sundays for the per-
formance of vaudevilles and varied pieces.
Price of admittance: 1st boxes and parquet,
3 francs 50 cents ; 2d boxes, 3 francs ; 3d
boxes, 2 francs 15 cents ; pit, 1 franc 10 cents.
Principal Journals of Brussels. Morn-
ing papers. Emancipation, Mouiteur Beige ;
Independent (.Morning and Evening), Beige,
Courrier Beige, Journal de la Belgique, Journal
du Commerce Beige. Evening papers, Obser-
vatcur. Eclair. English Paper, Brussels Ga-
zette. Periodical Magazines: National Review,
monthly ; Universal Review, every fortnight.

Church of England service is performed in
the Chapel Royal, Rue de IMusee, every Sunday
at 9 A. M. and half-past 2 afternoon, and in the
chapel on the Boulevard de lObservatoire on
Sunday at a quarter to 1 and half-past 3.

The Park is open daily from 7 in the morning
till 9 at night ; on Sundays a military band
j)erf()rms from I till 2 o'clock.

The Royal Observatory is situated near the
Schaerbeck (iate.

The English Reading Room and Circulating
Library, 73. Montagne de la Cour, is open
from 8 in the morning till 8 in the evening.

Other public Establishments, &c. — St.
John's Hospital, Boulevard Botanique ; St.
Peter's, rue Haute; Prison of the Petits Cannes;

BRUSSKLS.

the Beguinage, near the Rue de Laeken ; King's
Palace at Laeken, the old church and church-
yard ; the Abattoir, near the Port de Ninove ;
the Allee Verte ; and the three Theatres.

Private Clubs. — Great Harmonic Society,
outside the gate of Laeken ; Loyal Club, Grande
Place; Club, Rue Leopold; Reading Club,
Hotel de la Paix ; Commercial Club, Rue de
I'Eveque ; Philharmonic Society, at the Cafe
Suisse, Place de la Monnaie ; Club de I'Ancien
Cercle, at the Domino, Place de la Monnaie.
Strangers are admitted on being presented by
a member.

Reading Rooms. — For French books, Rue
d'Assaut, H. ; for English books and journals,
Brown's Library, Montague de la Cour ; Place
Royale, 14: for journals only. Rue des Car-
rieres, on the first floor.

Passports. — Travellers are to go to the
Minister of the Interior, Rue de la Loi, 4., for
everything concerning their passports. The
office is opened every day from 10 to 3 o'clock,
and on Sundays and holidays from 10 to 12
o'clock. The English Legation will be found
31. Rue Ducale.

Fairs. — There are three fairs at Brussels.
May 1, coach and horse fair; prizes are given ;
May 22, a small fair, which terminates June 2 ;
October 18, a great fair, ends November 2.

Exchange (Bourse). Rue de I'Eveque and
Place de la Monnaie. Open every day at 12
o'clock.

Paper Money. — Brussels has two banks,
the Banque de Belgique, and the General So-
ciety for the Assistance of the National Trade.
Both these issue notes, payable at sight, which
are everywhere taken in payment. ' Tlie value
of each of these is 1000 francs, 500 francs, 100
francs, and 50 francs.

Exchange Office. — Rue des Fripieres, 31.
and 45. ; Rue de la Madeleine, 70. ; Montagne
de la Cour, 34. 71. and 94.

Horse- Races. — There are two races every
year, which attract a great number of strangers.
They take place in the plain of Monplaisir
during the Kermesse, and during the Sep-
tember festivals.

Public Festivals (Fetes). — The Fetes of
Brussels, which are attended by a great number
of persons, are those of the Kermesse, which
are celebrated in July, and the anniversary of
the revolution of 1830, September 25, 26, and
27.

History. — Brussels stands in the province
of S. Brabant, in 50° 50' N. Lat. and 4° 22' E.
Long, stands on the Senne, a trifling stream.
Brussels is but a small city, measuring about
one mile and a quarter in length by one mile
in breadth; stands on one side of a hill, which
gives it a fine appearance when seen from the
west. Its origin is dated as far back as the
seventh century. It has been subject at various
times to the destructive consequences of war,
fire, and the plague. In 1213 taken by the
English; in 1326 and in 1405 it was nearly
destroyed by fire; in 1314 it was visited by
plague, when the inhabitants died so fast that
sixty people were sometimes buried in one
grave ; in 1488 it was surprised and taken by
Philip of Cleves, and in the next year was
visited by a contagious disease, which mowed
down the inhabitants, hundreds of whom are
said to have died in the streets ; in 1578 the
plague again came, and 27,000 people perished.
This last visitation was hastened by the misery
induced in the city through the tyranny of the
Duke of Alva, who had previously by his
cruelty driven out of Belgium her most skilful
artizans to carry their valuable manufactures to
other countries. In 1695 Marshal Villeroi
bombarded Brussels, destroying more than
4000 buildings. The Elector of Bavaria be-
sieged it in 1708 ; but this time it escaped by
the help of our Duke of Marlborough. In 1746
Marshal Saxe laid the city under heavy con-
tributions. The last great fight in its neigh-
bourhood was that of Waterloo, June, 1815,
unless we take into account the contest during
the Revolution in 1830, when Belgium was
severed from Holland, and became a separate
kingdom.

Town-Hall (Hotel de Ville). — This is a
large and majestic edifice, situated in one of
the finest squares of Brussels. This building

THE RIIINK BOOK.

was finished in 1441 ; in the front rises a tower
364 feet high ; it is tapering and fluted along
its whole length ; it is surmounted by a colossal
brass-gilt statue of St. Michael, the patron of
the town, turning with the least wind, and 17
feet high. It was in the great room of the
Town Hall, called the Gothic room, that
Charles V. signed, September 7, 1 556, a deed
of abdication in favour of his son Philip. The
other rooms are remarkable for the tapestry
with which they are hung, for their numerous
pictures, and the richness of the ceilings.

Cathedral of St. Gudl'LE. This is a
Gothic edifice, built on the slope of a hill
formerly called Molenberg. The foundation
of this church was laid in 1010. It was first
consecrated to St. Michael, and afterwards to
St. Gudule, when the body of the latter saint
was transferred to it from the chapel of St.
Gery, in 1047. Since that period it has always
been named the Church of Sts. Michael and
Gudule. Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy,
held the first chapter of the Golden Fleece in
this church, in the year 1226, when it was re-
built. St. Gudule has no remarkable pictures.
Its lions are the fine painted glass of its chapels;
the tombs which ornament the two sides of the
sanctuary ; the mausoleum of Count Frederick
de Merode, killed in 1830 among the Belgian
combatants ; the colossal statues, supported
against the pillars which sustain the vault, and
the pulpit, representing Adam and Eve driven
from Paradise, by Verbruggen.

Church of the Sablon, or Notre Dame
des Victoires, built by Duke John I., in 1288,
in commemoration of the Battle of Wceringen.
The monument of the Princes de la Tour and
Taxis, in the Chapel of St. Ursula, is remark-
able. There are three i)ictures worth seeing if
time permits: the Martyrdom of St. Barbe, by
Quellyn ; Christ on the Cross, by De Declerek,
and the Last Judgment, by Frans Flore. The
French poet, Jean Baptiste Rousseau, is interred
in this church. lie died at Genette, near
Brussels, March 17. 1741.

The traveller who stays long cnougli in
Brussels may visit its other churches. The

Church of N. D. de la Chapelle contains, be-
sides several statues by the celebrated chisel of
Du Quesnoy and of Fayd'Herbe, a picture
which is a masterpiece by G. de Crayer, Jesus
' appearing to IVIary INIagdalene. The church
of St. Nicholas, Hue au Beurre ; Ste. Catherine,
in the street of that name ; N. D. du Finistere,
Longue Rue Neuve, (this latter church is
named from the inscription over the portico,
" Laus tua in fines terras,") ; Saint John the
Baptist, have each some good pictures. At
Saint Catherine, besides a fine painting by
G. de Crayer, placed on the grand altar, there
is a Christ at the Tomb, by Otto Venius,
Rubens's master. The church of St. Jacques
du Caudenberg, Place Royale, is a modern
monument, which, during the revolutionary
period, had become the Temple of Reason.
This church has replaced the abbey of the
same name, where the Jesuit Bollandus, and
his successors under the name of Bollandists,
had devoted their vigils to the immense work
known under the name of Acta Sanctorum.

Palace of the Fine Arts The oldest

part of this building was formerly the residence
of the governors-general. It was commenced
in 1.346, and only finished in 1502; Prince
Charles of Lorraine beautified it in 1 744. Near
the old building rises the Palace of Industry
(Palais de ITndustrie), constructed on the site
of the old botanical garden. This is used
every four years for the exhibition of the pro-
ducts of industry. Several rooms are occupied
by the conservatory of arts and trades. The
old palace contains the Public Library, the
Gallery of Paintings, the Gallery of Natural
History, and a Cabinet of Natural Philoso-
piiy.

The Library (Bibliotheque) is open every
day to the public, from 10 to 2 o'clock, except
on Wednesdays and holidays. It contains
150,000 printed volumes, and 1 6,0<.10 manu-
scripts, some of which are adorned with valu-
able miniatures. Tiiis library belongs to the
town. Since some years a Royal Library has
been founded in one of the wings of the I'alace
of Industry, which is open to readers every day

BRUSSELS.

except Sundays and holidays, from 10 to 3
o'clock.

The Gallery of Paintings (Musee) contains
about 350 paintings, many of which are very
inferior ; but the collection of Gothic paintings
contains several very valuable ones. The aca-
demy of Brussels holds its sittings at the Musee.

The Cabinet of Natural History, a new esta-
blishment, which has had but a few years' ex-
istence, is already one of the richest in Europe.

The Cabinet of Natural Philosophy, consist-
ing of the instruments belonging to the old
University of Louvain, and since enriched with
new and numerous acquisitions, is now sufficient
for any experiments.

The Gallery of Paintings, the Galleries, and
the Cabinet are open (as before stated) to the
public every Sunday, Monday, and Thursday,
from 10 to 4 o'clock, and to foreigners every
day, by applying to the porter.

Brussels isembellished by numerous Squares:
the principal are, — the Place Royale, in the high-
est part of the town ; it is one of the finest in
Europe : the Grande Place, on which stands
the Town Hall (Hotel de Ville). Wlien
Count d'Egmont and Count Horn were exe-
cuted here, June 5. 1568, the whole of this
square was hung with black. The Place de la
Monnaie, which is adorned by the Royal The-
atre, and that of the Martyrs, formerly called
Place St. Michael.

The Place des Martyrs must be visited, and
its novel mode of paying a compliment to those
slain during the revolution will strike the
Englishman as being something peculiarly
French. The statue of Liberty rises up from
the centre of a huge vault into which the visitor
descends, to find inscribed upon the marble walls,
in letters of gold, the names and places of birth
of those who fell in the struggle of September,
1830.

The Boulevards which surround Brussels,
and are adorned with rich mansions and hotels,
are not among the least embellishments of the
town, which has besides that two other pro-
menades truly worthy of a capital, the Park,
and the Allee Verte.

The Park* is a large and beautiful garden
ornamented with clumps of trees and statues,
and is situated opposite to the King's palace,
in the midst of fine streets : it is to Brussels
what the garden of the Tuileries is to Paris.
In the Park, on Sundays, during the fine sea-
son, a military band plays, with su])erior exe-
cution, pieces of music which attract a great
concourse of promenaders.

The Allee Verte, planted with several rows
of trees, runs along the canal of Willebrock to
the length of more than a quarter of a league
in a straight line. Though a little out of
fashion, it is still, in fine weather, numerously
attended by persons in carriages, on horseback,
and on foot. It is the Champs Elysees of
Brussels.

The Botanical Garden, the entrance to
which is in the Rue Royale exterieure, outside
the Porte de Schaerbeck, is on the Boulevard
Botanique. This recent establishment already
rivals every other of the sort by the beauty of
the buildings and hot-houses, and the richness
of its plantations. In summer the public is
admitted into the Gardens on Tuesdays, Thurs-
days, and Saturdays, from 10 to 3 o'clock, and
into the hot-houses every day on payment of
30 centimes for each person.

" The origin of this establishment was owing
to a sarcasm. At a sale of flowers in 1826, a
shrub of so great price was produced, that no
single amateur was willing or able to become the
purchaser ; and a person in the crowd suggested
the propriety of obtaining it for the Botanic
Gardens of Brussels. The hit told; a subscrip-
tion was opened on the spot, and the garden
was laid out. An annual sum of 6000 florins
is granted by government to its support ; and
a like sum by the city. The Royal Society of
Horticulture, who are the proprietors, have
themselves a capital of 200,000 florins, in 400
shares of 500 florins each. In the care and dis-
position of the garden a scrupulous attention is

* hi the Rue Royale, opposite'oiie of the side entrances
to the park, is the statue of General Belliard, the French
ambassador to Belgium, who died at Brussels, Jan. 28.
1832.

THE RUINE BOOK.

paid to scientific arrangement ; and students
have ready access at all times to the examination
of its contents. Both the scientific and vulgar
names are attached to every plant, and gene-
rally that of the country of which it is a native.
A circular piece of ground is divided into
small parterres, in which the Linna;an classifi-
cation is fully exemplified ; and several small
ponds are appropriated to the nurture of aqua-
tic productions. Tlie conservatory, which is
heated by steam, is 400 feet long, with a rotunda
in the centre, for the exposition of flowers ;
and at each end is an elegant portico, from
which there is a good view of the town." —
[ TroHope's Belgium since the Revolution. ]

Brussels has no remarkable fountains ; but
that of the Maneken Pis cannot be passed
without notice on account of its singularity.
It is placed at the corner of the Rue de I'Etuve
and Rue du Chene, and consists of a small
bronze figure.

The Mannekin is one of the lions of Brus-
sels. It is a small statue adapted to the pur-
poses of a fountain. Legacies have been left to
Mannekin, and on festival days the little figure
is dressed up as a beau of the first water.
Charles the Fifth made him presents, Louis
the Fourteenth knighted him, and Peter the
Great paid him a visit, and gave liim a pen-
sion.

Private Collections. — Tlie inhabitants
having in general a taste for painting and for
the arts, few tovrns can offer to amateurs such
rich private collections, which the possessors
are extremely kind in showing to strangers.
We mention the principal :

1. The Gallery of the Duke of Aremberg,
consisting nearly all of Flemish pictures, and
which is now increased by the addition of the
fine collection belonging to the late Prince
Augustus of Aremberg.

2. The Gallery of His Highness the Princede
Ligne, consisting of modern paintings. There
is an admirable collection of ancient pictures at
his mansion of Belocil.

.S. The collection of M. Makk de Werten-
feld, Rue de hi Reine, -10. Faubourg (['Ixelles,

formed of choice pieces, and to which is joined
a fine collection of curiosities.

4. The Collection belonging to Colonel Bire,
Rue Ducale, which consists of Dutch paintings.

5. The Gallery of M. Van Becelaere, the
proprietor of the Cafe des Milles Colonnes,
Place de la Monnaie.

6. M, Robyns, Rue Neuve, has a collec-
tion of insects, and especially some of the rarest
butterflies in the world.

The King's Palace is a large building, the
exterior of which is only remarkable for its
simplicity. The interior is richly decorated.
Under the French dominion, this palace, the
extent of which was less than it is now, was the
Hotel of the Prefecture. Napoleon and the
Empress Josephine lodged there in 1807, and
Maria Louisa in 181 1.

Palace of the Prince of Orange. This
is the prince's private property, and one of the
buildings which strangers usually visit. The
valuable pictures, and other rare and precious
articles which ornamented it, have been re-
moved.

National Palace (Palais de la Nation),
Rue de la Loi. — Maria Theresa had it con-
structed for tlie sittings of the old council of
Brabant. It is now occupied by the senate,
and by the Chamber of Representatives. Its
front, which is surmounted by a basso-relievo
from the chisel of Godecharles, is not deficient
in elegance. Spectators are admitted without
a ticket into the public galleries of both cham-
bers.

Charitable Institutions are numerous at
Brussels. We shall mention, among the most
important, the Great Asylum for Old l^eojile,
on the square of the old Beguinage ; the Ge-
neral Civil Hospital, near the gate of Hal, for-
merly founded for the Crusaders who returned
wounded from the Holy Land, and for lepers ;
it is now used for the treatment of dangerous
diseases ; and the Hospital of St. .John, Rue
de I'llopital, which will be transfeired to a
magnificent building which is in progress of
erection ui)on the Boulevard Botnni<|ue.

Ciii.KuuATi:i) Men. — Brussels is the country

TIIK EXCURSION TO WATEKLOO.

of several distinguished characters, among whom
we find : — Champagne ( Philippe), a painter, born
in 1602, died in 1674. — I.igne ( Charles Joseph
Prince de), as illustrious for his birth as for
liis chivalric grace, his intrepid courage, the
sharpness of his wit, and the gaiety of his tem-
per ; born, 1735, died, 1814. — Vesalius, one
of the greatest anatomists, born in 1514, died
of hunger after a tempest which threw him on
the CO ist of Zante, in 1 564. — Vandermeulen
(Antoine Francois), tlie celebrated painter of
battle pieces, born in 1634. — Qiiesnoy (Fran-
cois du) an illustrious sculptor, born at Brus-
sels in 1592, died at Leghorn in 1644; his
works adorn the greater part of the churches
of Belgium. — Camargo (Marie Anne Cupis

de), a celebrated dancer, born in 1710, died in
1770.

• '^The Manufactures of Brussels are not very
extensive : carpets and tapestries are no longer
staple commodities. Lace is, however, maim-
factured in considerable quantities, and there
are several large printing establishments, some of
•which, before the passing of the English Copy-
right Act, were kept very busy by the publi-
cation of pirated editions of new English books.
The Population of Brussels is calculated to
be upwards of 1 80,000 ; but is liable to fluctua-
tion according to the season ; the English resi-
dents are very numerous, and occupy most ot
the best houses.

WATKJL'JO'- °- -

MAIiiUN UV KOI

THE EXCUKSION TO WATERLOO.

A diligence starts for La Have Sainte every
morning at 7 o'clock and every afternoon at 5
o'clock, from the Couronne d'Espagne, in the
Vieille Halle au Ble; at 3 o'clock in the after-
noon from the Hotel de la Cloche, in the
Marcli<i-aux-Herbes; and at 4 o'clock from the
Cour de France, in the Rue des Pierres, at the
back of the Town Hall. In starting by the first
you may return in time for the Theatre ; price
of each person going one franc and a half, and

returning the same; a party of four persons
pay something less in proportion.

A horse and gig for 10 francs, or a saddle
horse for 8 francs, may be hired of Mr. Copper,
an Englishman ; adjoining the Prince of
Orange's Palace.

A carriage may be had from the stand for 20
francs, including every expense of turnpikes,
coachman, &c., holding six persons; but you
must agree to he taken tn La Belle Alliance, the
farthest point, or the driiu-r will stop at Mmit

THE lUIlNE BOOK.

St. Jean, and ylve you a very long walk to nrrive
at the field.

The original features of the ground, where
the centre of the English line had its position,
at the last desperate effort by the enemy, are
entirely obliterated ; and the ridge which formed
a part of Mont St. Jean is now levelled down
with the rest of the plain. This was done for
the purpose of obtaining a sufficient quantity of
earth to form the great mound, on which the
colossal bronze lion, which may serve either as
the British or Bclgic Lion, is supported, the
pedestal of which bears the simple inscription,
"June 18. 1815." The mound and the lion
have equally been the subjects of ill-natured
censure ; but the one containing the bones of
friends and foes, who fell in that dreadful day,
and the other composed of cannon taken from
the enemy, would appear to be strictly appro-
priate, " as being at once a memorial, a trophy,
and a tomb." The mound is placed on the
spot where the Prince of Orange received his
wound. As a guide employ Serjeant Major
Cotton, who lives on the field. He (as we have
before said) was at the battle.

The village of Waterloo is in the rear of the
field, and close to the forest of Soignies. The
trees are principally of beech, and some of them
very fine ; but the wood is fit for nothing but
fuel, and is used solely for that purpose.

If you intend to return to dinner, take some
refreshments with you, as at La Belle Alliance
it is difficult to procure them good, notwith-
standing the immense number of English who
have visited this place, and inserted their names
in a book that they present.

At Mont St. Jean the people are begin-
ning to understand the English character ; a
table-d'hote is prepared, and wine provided for
sale.

On returning, stop at the village of Waterloo,
and see the monuments in the Church, and the
tomb of the Marquis of Anglesea's leg; return-
ing through the sombre forest of Soignies, part
of which is the property of His Grace the Duke
of Wellington, conferred on him by the King of
Holland, in remuneration of his services on the
occasion which has this day particularly en-
grossed our attention — \_A Week at Brussels.']

VAI.LEV OF TUB MEn.SE

" What lovelier home could gentle fancy choose ?

Is this the stream, whose cities, heights, and plain^.

War's favourite playground, are with crimson stains

Familiar, as the morn with pearly dews ?

The morn, that now, along the silver Meuse,

Spreading her peaceful ensigns, calls the swains

To tend their silent boats and ringing wains.

Or strip the bough whose mellow fruit bestrews

The ripening corn beneath it. As mine eyes

Turn from the fortified and threatening hill,

How sweet the prospect of yon watery glade.

With its grey locks clustering in pensive shade.

That, shap'd like old monastic turrets, rise

From the smooth meadow'-ground, serene and still." — WoRDSwonrii.

Vt~f-

BRUSSELS TO THE RHINE, BY LIEGE AND AIX LA CIlAPELLE.

HEN the Traveller leaves Brussels to make his way on-
wards to the Rhine, lie finds himself retracing as far as
Malines his previous Railway Route, and not until he has
passed the Station at Mechlin does he find himself in an
entirely new scene. On quitting that station, the railway describes
a curve, and crosses the paved road leading to Louvaine, The first
village on the left hand is that of Meusen, on the Dyle, with a church
founded by St. Lambert. Soon afterwards on the same side the vil-
lage of Hever is seen, and in the distance the steeple of Rymenam, a

n J

OZ THi: HIIINK HOOK.

commune of the pi'ovince of Antwerp. A small stream is crossed, which falls
into the Dyle, and waters the commune of Doort-lMeerbeck on the right, the
church of which, close to the railway, contains the tombs of the lords of Launoy
and Santa Cruz. After a short stoppage at Haegt, an uninteresting place, the
train speedily arrives at Wespelaer, a famous i)lace of summer recreation for
the Belgians, who throng its fine park, and laud as inimitable its jumble of
statues, Chinese bridges, Grecian temples and monastic grottoes, where busts
of Voltaire and Rousseau hob-nob with Homer and the Prince of Orange.
Next, on the right, is the pointed spire of the rural village of Thildonck, and
in the distance, on the left, the baronial tower of Rotzelaer, once the strong-
hold of the rulers of this part of Brabant. As we near Louvaine the rail runs
along the side of the Canal, with its triple row of poplars, whilst rising above
the trees on the right is seen the steeple of St. Gertrude, notched like a double-
edged saw. The train stops at Louvaine, outside the gate of Diest, — a word
that calls to mind the beer the Belgian thinks so good and the Englishman
declares to be execrable.

Louvaine possesses two admirable old buildings in its Toaa'^n Hall and Col-
legiate Church, both of which secm*e the admiration of all who look upon
them. The lightness of the turrets, and the rich and graceful ornaments of the
Hotel de Ville, give it a claim to be the most beautiful Gothic edifice in the
north of Europe ; placing it in the scale of beauty for above many buildings of
much larger dimensions. The collegiate Church of St. Peter* is also a noble

* Tliis is the oldest paiisli cluirch in Louvaine ; it would even seem that it had been built on
the ruins of a temple of Mars, if we are to believe the Latin verse inscriheil over its portico: —

Mars Petro cessit, pro clavibus hasta recessit.

In 1130, the fire which destroyed the town did not spare this church, which was afterwards
rebuilt more magnificently. According to the plan kept at the Town-Hall, there were three
gigantic towers over the portico ; the middle was 536 feet high without counting height of tlie
cross, and each of the side towers was 430 feet high. Jan. 31, 1606, a terrible whirlwind threw
down the great tower, which, drawing along with it the two others, crushed all the houses in the
neighbourliood ; the force of tlie wind was so great, that the cross was found in the Dyle at some
distance.

The great aisle is as astonislilng by the boldness as by the elegance of its architecture ; a lobby
which is wonderfully carved, enriched with gilding, and surmounted by an immense crucifix
which rises up to the roof, closes in the choir. In the second chipel on the riglit, on entering by
the great one, is a Christ, as black as ebony, and clotheil in ;i long red robe. According to a
pious legend, three thieves had entered the church anil were preparing to strip the altar, when
tills figure of Christ, loosening its arm from the cross, seized the brigands by the hair, and kept
them in that position until day.

There are at Louvaine a few establishments worlliy of a largo town ; a botanical garden, ai.d
cabinet of natural history and philosojjhy.

LOUVAINE. 0,3

Structure, and has of course good store of carvings, tombs, pictures, and legends.
The most noticeable of the latter is always told when the visitor looks uj)on the
chapel of Magriefge — the holy spot dedicated to Margaret of Louvaine, the
patron saint of servant-girls : —

" Being servant at an inn where pilgrims were received, her master and
his Avife having resolved to leave their business and embrace the monastic
state, she had also formed the same project ; the three were to enter the
monastery next day; some pilgrims came to beg for hospitality for that night
only : they were received, and Margaret went to fetch some wine. She had
scarcely stepped out, when the pilgrims (who were thieves) murdered the inn-
keeper and his wife. Margaret at her return underwent the same fate after a
long struggle, and her body was thrown into the Dyle. This was September 2.
122.5. The young Avoman's body, instead of following the current, ascended the
river up to the middle of the town, surrounded by a golden glory, and, it is said,
uttering harmonious sounds. Henry the First, Duke of Lorraine, who Avas at his
castle, was a witness of this miracle. The report of it was immediately spread :
the chapter of St. Peter, the duke and duchess, followed by their court and the
magistrates, went in procession to fetch the remains of the saint and carried
them to the church, Avhere, after having embalmed and placed them in a coffin
closed by a grating, tliey were placed behind the choir, a chapel which then
opened into the street."

After passing Louvaine the railroad begins to lose the " even tenour of its
way," and as we near the Meuse the surface of the country becomes more and
more irregular: tunnels, cuttings, and viaducts are now for the first time met
with ; but what the country loses in level, it gains in beauty.

Steam is bearing us towards the valley that called forth Wordsworth's
sonnet. The train whirls along by the old Abbey of Pare, standing on the right,
where a few monks still vegetate ; by Corbeck-Loo, Luvenjoul, the square tower
of which is visible from the carriages, and Bautersem. At Vertryck the engine
stops for a moment ; then off again by Roosbeck, a small commune on the left,
and then through the tunnel of Comtich (which, say the Belgians, " the train
enters as a sword into a scabbard,") to Tirlemont*, wdiere the steam steeds are
watered and get their black feed of coke.

In one of the rooms of the Town-Hall there are about a hundred pictures, the greater part by
the first masters of the Flemish school, as Quentyn Matsys, Coxie, de Crayer, E. Quellyn, Otto
Venius, Vandyke, and Jordaens.

There are at Louvaine woollen, lace and oil factories ; but its principal article of trade is the
beer made there, of which it annually sends out more than 200,000 barrels.

* Tirlemont possesses a building which is of importance to the history of the first period of
Christian architecture, in the chinch of Saint Germain, built upon the summit of an eminence

THK KI11M-: I'.OOK.

Going still towards Liege, the country becomes more and more uneven, and
contains traces of the passage of the Romans, in shape of remnants of massive
tombs built by them. After the small villages of Haekendover on the left, and
AVulverson on the riglit, the line enters the province of Liege, and crosses the
battle-plain of Neervinden, where the Marshal of Luxembourg beat the English
allies in 1693, and General Dumouriez was defeated by the Austrians in 1793.
The last victory released Belgium for the time from the French yoke. The halt

is at Landen, the town of
the founder of the fomily
of Charlemagne. The
journey from this place
to Liege occupies nearly
another hour, and bears
the Traveller through a
portion of the province of
Limburg, and by Rosoux
Corswaren, Berloz, Wa-
remme, — where there is
a church founded by the
Templar Gauthier, —
Longchamp, marked by
a handsome mansion, and
Fexhe - le - haute-clocher.
These places are passed
in the order in which they
are here named.

Liege is a small Bir-
mingham placed in a
beautiful valley. Tall
chinmeys, smoke, noise,
<lirt, and money, are
mingled in the centre of
one of the loveliest cor-
ners of Northern Europe.
The Meuse winds its way

wliich overlooks the towi. The tower is Roman, and must be ineiitionecl as a niodol of tliat
style. Its date is probably the ninth century.

Tliere are stocking, flannel, and woollen stuff manufactories in tlie town ; soap boilers, and
sugar refiners: there are also breweries wliich do extensive business. Its trade in corn and wool
is likewise considerable.

LIEGE. 55

between green banks and frnitful hills, as freshly and placidly as if no such
serviceable abominations as factories were known ; wliilst the busy hum of com-
merce, and the laborious and skilful occupations of the artizan, are not less active
or less useful for having such a scene all round about to solace and refresh the
toil-worn. The Liegois of our day, if less turbulent, are not less spirited or
industrious than their forefathers, who figure so strikingly in Walter Scott's
" Quentyn Durwai'd ; " but the Traveller who looks about the town for the
localities described by the novelist will be disappointed in his search. He will
find the people of the romance, but not the places.

The streets, chimneys, and, indeed, the faces of the population, tell the secret
whence Liege derives her riches. Time was when the place boasted but a single
forge ; and though bucklers were heaped beside the anvil, and swords and spears
lay waiting for repair, the blacksmith leant idly against his door-post, gazing
idly up the hill-side. Gradually he was aware of a figure, which seemed to have
grown into shape from a furze bush, or to have risen from behind a stone ; and as
it descended the slope he eyed curiously the grimy face, long beard, and squat
form of what he was half unwilling to recognise as a human being. Hobbling
awkwardly, and shrugging his shoulders as though cold, the man came in time
to the smithy door.

"What! Jacques Perron — idle when work is to be done? Idle smith ! idle
smith ! The horse lacks the bit, and the rider the spur.

' 111 fares the hide when the buckler waits mending,
111 fares the plough whilst the coulter lacks tending. '

Idle smith, idle smith ! "

" Idle enough," quoth Jacques : " I'm as idle as you are ugly ; but I can't get
charcoal any more than you can get beauty, so I must stand still, and you be
content with your face, though I'd fain earn a loaf and a cup full enough for
both of us this winter morning."

Though the strange man must have known he was horribly ugly, — that is if
he ever went to drink of the clear bright waters of the lovely Meuse, which
reflected in those days every lily-bell and every grass-blade which grew upon its
banks, and gave a faithful portraiture in its cool waters of every creature that
leant over them, — though he was certainly the most frightful creature that had
ever met the blacksmith's sight, — it was evident enough he did not like being
called Ugly-face. But when the honest good-natured smith spoke of earning a
full draught for his new acquaintance as well as himself, he smacked his ugly
lips, and twisted out a sort of smile which made him still more hideous.

"Ah, ah!" said he, "wine's good in winter weather, wine's good in winter
weather. Listen, listen, Jacques Perron ! listen ! listen ! Go you up the hill-

THE i:HIXi: I500K.

side, — yonder, yonder I" and he pointed with a yelh)\v finger, which seemed to
stretch out hjnger and longer as the smith strained hi.s eyes up the sh)pe, until the
digit looked (piite as long as the tallest chimney that now smokes over Liege.
" Listen, listen !" and he sang in a voice like the breath of a huge bellows —

" Wine's <T<)()<1 in winter weather ;
I'p the hill-side near the heather
Go and gather the black earth.
It shall give your (ire birth ;

111 fares the hide when the buckler wants mending,
Til fares the plough when the coulter wants tending.
Go! Go!"

" Mind my cup of wine — mind my cup of wine!" As lie ended this rude
chaunt Jacques saw the long finger run back into the shrivelled hand, as a
telescope slips back into its case, and then the hand was wrapped up in the dingy
garment, and with a dreadful shiver, and a chattering of teeth as loud as the
noise of the anvils now heard on the same spot, the ugly man seemed to waft
away round the corner of the building like a thick gust of smoke from a newly
fed furnace.

" Mind my cup of wine — mind my cup of wine!" rang again in the ears of the
startled Jacques, and after running several times round his house in vain pursuit
of the voice, he sat down on the cold anvil to scratch his head and think.
It was quite certain he had work to do, and it was as certain as half a score
searches could make it, that he had not a single coin in his pouch to buy char-
coal to do it w^ith. It was clear to him that the old man was a very sti-ange
creature — he was more than half afraid to think who he miglit be — when in the
midst of his cogitation he heai'd his three children calling out for their morning
meal. Not a loaf had Jacques in store, and twisting his hide apron round his
loins, he muttered, " Demon or no demon, I'll go," and strode out of the smithy
and up the hill-side, as fast as though he feared that if he went slowly his courage
would not carry him as far up as the heather bush which the long yellow finger
had pointed out.

When the young wife of Jacques came to look for her husband, she saw him
returning with an apron full of black morsels of shining stone ; she smiled at him ;
but when he threw them on the furnace and went to get a brand to set them
a-light, she looked solemn enough, for she thought he had left his wits on the
hill-top. Great was her marvel when she saw the stone hum ! But her joy was
greater than her surprise when she heard her husband's hammer ring merrily,
and found the wage of the smith all spared for home use, instead of being set
aside for the charcoal-burner. That night Jacques had two full wine-cups, and
setting them on the anvil, hail scared v said to himself — " T woiidci- wIkMIut IIk'i.i.

A LEGEND OF LIEGE. 57

come!" when in walked the Old Man, and nodding familiarly seated himself on
the head of the big hammer. Jacques was a bold and grateful, as well as a good-
natured fellow, and in a few minutes he and his visitor were on excellent terms.
No more shivering or chattering of teeth was seen or heard in the smithy that
nio-ht. The black stones burned away merrily on the hearth, and the bright
flames shone on the honest face of the smith, as he hob-nobbed with his com-
panion, and looked as though he really thought the stranger as handsome as he
certainly had been useful. He sang his best songs, and told his best stories, and
when the wine had melted his soul, he told his new friend how dearly he loved
his wife, and what charming dear creatures his children were. " Demon, or no
demon," he swore the stranger was a good fellow, and though the visitor spoke
but little, he seemed to enjoy his company very much. He laughed at the jokes,
smiled at the songs, and once rather startled Jacques by letting out again his long
telescope arm to pat him on his shoulder, when, with a mouth full of praises of his
wife, a tear sparkled in his eye as he told over again how dearly he loved his
little ones.

Day broke before the wine was exhausted or their hearts flagged, and when
the voice of the early cock woke the swan that tended her callow brood amongst
the sedges of the Meuse, the Old Man departed. Jacques never saw him again
although he often looked in all directions when he went to the hill for a supply of
fuel ; but from that day Liege grew up in industry, riches, and power. Jacques
HAD FOUND COAL, and thus became the benefactor of his native country, and the
hero of the favourite Legend of the Liegois.

For ages after the time of the first man who used coal in Liege, the history of
the city was one long chronicle of exertion, struggle, oppi-ession, cruelty, and
strife. The people grew wealthy by their skill and industry, and as wealth gives
leisure and independent feelings, the people groaned and grumbled under the
yoke of their old feudal masters. When the town grew into importance it was
assigned to a priestly proprietor — a bishop in name, a noble by birth, and an abso-
lute ruler in reality, whose only care was, to make the people as valuable to himself
as possible. These Prince-Bishops were often boys of eighteen or twenty,who only
assumed the titles of the church for what those titles gave them. Every worldly
desire was gratified, and in many cases every manner of profligacy was openly
indulged by these dignitaries. The artizans during successive generations bought
various privileges of their bishops, as the burgesses of other cities had obtained
them of their feudal lords, until at length the wealth and intelligence of the
people forced upon the oligarchy a recognition of their power, if it failed to
obtain any willing concession for their benefit. Then came the struggles Avhich
all European countries can parallel, but which showed themselves more distinctly
in Fhmders than any where else. The rising many fought against the elevated

THE RHINE COOK.

and privileged few, and fire, bloodslied, and cruelties of all kinds, and on both
sides, were the result. Then too came forth the burgher heroes of Liege, who,
like their confreres of Ghent and Bruges, displayed in many noble instances-
the true martyr-spirit of the patriot. But enough of this — " 'Tis an old tale,
and often told."

The present Cathedrae of St. Paul of Liege is but the substitute for a much

more magnificent structure
dedicated to St. Lambert,
and destroyed during the
revolutionary disorders of
1 793. St. Paul is remark-
able for its size, but the
church of St. James is the
architectural glory of the
place, and a gem it is.
Dating its origin as far
back as 1014, it has enjoyed
various fortunes, and wit-
nessed many changes. Ori-
ginally a convent, it sub-
sequently became an abbey,
and narrowly escaped the
blind destructive fury of
the revolutionary mob that
destroyed the Cathedral.
The palaces of the Prince-
Bishops can only rival it
in interest. These two
buildings will amuse the
Traveller by their ap-
pearance and associations,
and give him food for
thought in tlie changes
which have come over them.
The sunuucr palace of Se-
raing has been converted
into a huge factory by the
enterprise of an English
engineer, INIr. Cockerell :
llie sanctitv of the otlur

SPA. 59

abode of the old rulers of Liege has been invaded by the chafFerings of the huckster,
the quibbles of the law, and the groans and forced labour of the criminal.

The Englishman who has leisure may make a pilgrimage beyond the walls of
the town to the Convent of Saint William, where he will discover the tomb of Sir
John Mandeville, the earliest of our travellers, and the first English prose
writer. Born at St. Alban's, in 1300, and educated in medicine, he started upon
his travels about the time Avhen Chaucer was in leading strings, and returned to
England to issue his first book in prose, when the father of English poetry was
busily tagging his earliest rhymes. Sir John travelled altogether for thirty-four
years, chiefiy in the East ; and his credulity has given rise to many a laugh at
his expense. Side by side with truthful descriptions of what he himself saw, we
find him recounting with equal gravity stories of what he heard, and asking for
belief in fiery dragons, flying horses, and other such absurdities. Sir John,
however, was learned, brave, enterprising, with a thirst of travel which no
dangers or difficulties could overcome ; and, in all these respects, the worthy
father of the long list of adventurers whom England has since sent forth —
travelling and to ti'avel.

The ENVIRONS of Liege are eminently picturesque and interesting. The forest
of the Ardennes, with its people speaking their peculiar language neither French
nor Flemish ; the windings of the Meuse ; the many feudal remains, and the
numerous romantic legends of the place, would aiford amusement for a fortnight's
ramble. Spa and Chaudfontaine are two popular points of attraction, and aflbrd,
in addition to the charms of fine scenery, the ordinary excitement of continental
watering-places. The chalybeate waters, and the gaming tables of Spa, have an
European celebrity. Peter the Great spent six weeks there, as an inscription at
the Pouhon spring bears testimony. In 1654,' Charles the Second of England
drank its waters and patronised its gaming tables, whilst waiting for the death of
Cromwell. Kings and princes without number have since then visited its
pleasant promenades, and hunted in the neighbouring forest, the last and most
celebrated of them being Louis Philippe, King of the French, who, when Duke of
Orleans, with his children, Mademoiselle Adelaide and her younger brother,
formed a walk in the wood, near the Sauveniere, which is still pointed out with
pride to all visitors. It will be remembered that Madame de Genlis celebrated the
abode of these princes in the forest of the Ardennes, in her drama entitled The
Blind Man of Spa.

The Springs are of course the avowed reasons for a resort to Spa ; but the
beauty of its situation, and the charms of the surrounding scenery, are, in reality,
more powerful attractions than its waters. These, however, are valuable.

" The Pouhon, which was also formerly written the Potcxhon, is the most
celebrated and most frequented of all the springs, and its waters are the most

1 2

60 THE RHINE BOOK.

active. It is this water which is sent all over Europe, in bottles, under the name
of Spa loater. It keeps many years without losing its qualities. This fountain
is in the middle of the town, and 340 metres above the level of the sea. The
quadrangular well containing the spring is under a portico of the Tuscan order,
built in 1820, and bearing the inscription : To the Memory of Peter the Great.
Its general temperature is 8 degrees ; its flavour, acidulated, sharp, and chalybeate.

" The Geronstere scarcely yields to the Pouhon in celebrity. It is situated on
the South, and 160 metres above the level of the Pouhon, three quarters of a
league from Spa. An excellent road, bordered with shady trees, leads to it.
The fountain is in the middle of a wood, surrounded by pleasant walks, and
almost in the centre of a sort of English pleasure ground. It is a charming spot ;
the water gushes forth from a circular well cut in the rock and covered by a small
marble dome. The water of the Geronstere is chalybeate and less acidulated
and sharp than that of the other springs. Its temperature is 7° 55".

" The Sauveniere and the Groosbeck are about the same height as the Geron-
stere, and are only at the distance of three quarters of a league. A double row
of trees overshadows the road leading from Spa to the Sauveniere, which com-
municates with the Geronstere by a road from which there are several pretty
views. The Sauveniere was formerly so much frequented by churchmen, that
even now it is called the ecclesiastical fountain. A mass used to be said close
by in a chapel called Salamanque.

" The Sauveniere and the Groosbeck are in the midst of a wood containing the
most delightful walks. The walk made by the hands of Louis Philippe, in
memory of liis Avife's restoration to health, is here.

" Near the spring of the Sauveniere there is a hole in the shape of a foot : it is
called the foot of St. Remade. Some wonderful virtues are attributed to this
sacred vestige, if one takes care to place one's right foot into it on drinking the
water of the spring. The water is acidulated and sharp : its flavour is more
agreeable, and it contains less iron than that of the Pouhon. Their temperature
is 7° 77".

" The Tonneletis, situated half a league from Spa to the N.E. of the Sauveniere
and 70 metres above the Pouhon. The water of the Tonnelet is remarkable for
tlie quantity of carbonic acid it contains. This spring takes its name from a cask
which was originally driven into the earth, and from the bottom of which the
water rose.

" The Place Royale, surrounded with trees and situated near the hill of Annette
and Lubin*, is the place of meeting of the most fashionable company. This place

* Those who have read Marmonters Moral Talus will perhaps remember that of Annette and
Lubin. They were two poor lovers of Spa; an Englishman built them a hut to shelter them until
better times ; its remains were still to be seen in 1779. A Frenchman took the couple to Paris ;

THE ARDEMNES. 61

is near the walk called that of the Seven Hours (des sept Heures), the ancient
trees of which entwine their leafy branches and form delightful arbours."

A ramble in the Ardennes calls up in the mind of the Englishman the scenes
in Shakspeare's play, where the soliloquizing Jacques talks poetry in the same
forest, and as the traveller looks around him he finds how truly the poet's descrip-
tion still applies to the place,

Under the oak whose antique root peeps out
Upon the brook that brawls along this wood.

Has not the very spot been painted again and again by Snyder s ? The
deerstealer of Stratford knew what a forest was, and though he never set foot out
of England, he caught with a poet's eye the features of a woodland solitude, and
with a poet's power told so truly what they were, that his lines apply to all such
scenes in all countries, and will do so through all time.

But this neighbourhood has other attractions beyond the forest glades, the
ruins, the legends, and the springs. There is a cascade at Coo, a grotto at
Remouchamps, and a large and curious cave at Tilf.*

they were introduced into society, taken to the theatres and public walks, and saw the history of
their simple love played upon the stage of the Comic Opera.

* The Cascade of Coo is situated three leagues to the south of Spa. The road which leads to
it passes by the Geronstere, the villages of Ru and Roanne, and it rises at a height of more than
700 metres above the level of the sea. The way to the fall is by a narrow path winding round the
foot of steep rocks which remind us of those of Switzerland. The traveller soon reaches one of the
finest spots which the eye can imagine. The Ambleve pours its foaming waters from a considerable
height ; their whiteness forming a dazzling contrast with the dark green rocks upon which they
fall. A wooden bridge of great boldness of execution is thrown across the torrent, and those who
dare to place themselves upon it enjoy one of the most extensive and varied prospects.

The Grotto of Remouchamps is situated three leagues S. W. of Spa, in a wild spot, and in a
narrow valley watered by the Ambleve. The entrance to the grotto is closed by a grating. The
keeper furnishes the visitor with clothes and lights, and enters with him into its depths. A
splendid sight now strikes the eye ; the size of the caves, the height of the vaults, the singular
shape of the petrifactions, the greater part of which have been named from the animals or objects
which they resemble ; the shining substance which covers them on ev€ry side, and the astonishing
whiteness of the stalactites, surprise and delight the spectator.

The cave called that of the Ruins, which is the largest of all, is formed by immense rocks laid
over each other ; one of the vaults is 350 feet long.

A new grotto was discovered under the first, in 1834, by an English traveller. It is said to be
extremely curious, but it is difficult of access, for it can only be entered by means of a rope to
wliich the traveller must be fastened.

The grotto of Remouchamps is not the only one in the country of Liege which deserves to be
seen ; that of Tilf is not less worthy tlie curiosity of the lovers of natural history.

Tilf, a small commune of 1000 inhabitants, two leagues from Liege, on the right bank of the
Ourte, was known and frequented since a long time on account of its picturesque situation and the

62 THE RHINE BOOK.

Walter Scott's name is identified with the Ardennes, not only by his inid Boar,
painted so fearfully in Qnentyn Durward, but through a ballad telling one of the
many legends of the neighbourhood.

^Ijc ^otucrs of Jprandjimont.

The Towers of Franchimont,
Which, like an eagle's nest in air,
Hang o'er the stream and hamlet fair.
Deep in their vaults, the peasants say,
A mighty treasure buried lay,
Amass'd through rapine and through wrong
By the last lord of Franchimont.
The iron chest is bolted hard,
A huntsman sits, its constant guard ;
Around his neck his horn is hung,
His anger in his belt is slung ;
Before his feet his bloodhounds lie,
An' 'twere not for his gloomy eye,
"Whose withering glance no heart can brook,
As true a huntsman doth he look,
As bugle e'er in brake did sound,
Or ever hallooed to a hound.

To chase the fiend and win the prize.
In that same dungeon ever tries
An aged necromantic priest ;
It is an hundred years at least
Since 'twixt them first the strife begun,
And neither yet has lost or won.
And oft the conjurer's words will make
The stubborn demon groan and quake ;
And oft the bands of iron break,

delightful views by which it is surrounded, when, in 1837, the discovery of a large grotto, by some
workmen who had sprung a mine, increased the attraction of this charming village.

Tliere are boats ft)r those travellers who wish to make excursions above the village up the river.

The Grotto is half the way up the hank, and its access is rather difficidt. Before entering it
the traveller must jiut on an especial costume whidi is to he had on the spot. Some toiu ists tliink
this cave larger and more curious than that of Kemouchamps ; it will be suflicient to mention that
it is more than 600 metres in extent, that it takes three or four hours to go over it, by passages
which 'nust be crawled through, and among frightful ijrecijjices.

On the rock, over the grotto, rises the castle of Brialmont, and, farther im, a hill celebrated in
the country by a battle between the Austrians and the French, and in which the latter overthrow
their opponents at the point of the bayonet.

FRANCHIMOXT. 63

Or bursts one lock, tliat still amain
Fast as 'tis open'd shuts again.
Tims magic strife within the tomb
May last until the day of doom,
Unless th' adept shall learn to tell
The very word tliat clench'd the spell,
When Franch'niont lock'd the treasure cell.
An hundred years are past and gone.
And scarce three letters has he won.

Franchimont is not very far from Spa*, and is enshrined in history as the place
from whence issued six hundred men, who, animated by tlie same pure patriotism

* Spa is a small town of the province of Liege, and of the district of Verviers, four leagues from
the latter town and nine leagues from Liege, situated in a fine valley surrounded by green hills,
and watered by the Wayai, which crosses it. Population 3500 inhabitants. Post Office and
post-horses. The origin of Spa is unknown, but it is thought that the present town was founded
in 1 327, by a farrier, who had bought some lands of Adolphe de la Mark, bishop of Liege.

Augustine of Venice, physician to Henry VII., was the first foreigner who came here to take
the waters. But it was only about the end of the 16ih century that they considerably increased
in renown. However, they still attracted but few persons ; and Montaigne says in his quaint
manner, " Those of Liege wonder at the waters of Lucca, and the Tuscans do the same of those of
Spa." However, a few illustrious foreigners came here at last; the Duke de Nevers in 1575,
Margaret, the first wife of Henry IV., king of France, in 1577, and the celebrated Alexander
Farnese in 1590. At the commencement of the 17th century the waters of Spa were already sent
into France, England, and Italy. But the brilliant period of the history of Spa commenced in
the 18th century. Peter the Great came here in 1717 ; he drank some of the water of Geronstere
and of the Pouhon, and found such benefit from it that, on returning into his dominions, he
expressed his gratitude in the Latin inscription engraved on a tablet of marble, which may still be
seen at the entrance of the Pouhon. However, the fame of Spa was beginning to spread, and its
inhabitants did nothing towards rendering its abode agreeable to strangers; it was only in 1750
that hotels and assembly-rooms were built, and strangers soon arrived in great numbers. Such is
the history of the town.

Nothing can be more graceful and picturesque than the road from Liege to Chaudfontaine,
(conveyances to Chaudfontaine start at every hour from Liege, particularly from M. Henrard's,
who keeps the Hotel de I'Europe, Place de la Comedie,) and thence to Verviers by Pepinster,
where it turns off to Spa. It is situated in the cool valley in which the Vesdre rolls its limpid
waters in such multiplied sinuosities tliat at each moment the river flows from right to left and
from left to right. The road to Chaudfontaine, which is among green hills, interspersed with
hamlets and country-houses, presents at every turn the most varied and interesting views. Tiie
railroad now being constructed from Liege to the Prussian frontiers by Verviers is in the same
valley of the Vesdre through which the road to Chaudfontaine passes.

Chaudfontaine is a commune of the province and district of Liege, two leagues from that town ;
population 1000 inhabitants. It is a pretty village, surrounded by charming landscapes.

The picturesque charms of the place, the delightful walks witii which it is surrounded, and the
efficaciousness of its waters, bring many strangers every year to Chaudfontaine ; and many come

THE RniNE BOOK.

that led the three hundred to Thermopjla?, surrendered their lives for their
country. Liege was invested by an army forty thousand strong, led on by the
most daring captain of the time, Charles the Bold of Burgundy. The destruction
of the city seemed inevitable, when the men of Fi-anchimont enlisted together to
slay the invader or perish in the attempt. In the dead of night on the 29th of
October, 1467 (the day, aye the hour, deserves to be remembered) the devoted
band set out, and falling unexpectedly upon the enemy had well nigh succeeded in
their attempt to reach the tent of Charles. But numbers won the fight : might
triumphed over patriotism ; and the six hundi'ed men of Franchimont died sword
in hand doing manful battle for liberty.

also from Liege for the mere purpose of an agreeable excursion. Tliere are some good liotels at
Chaudfontaine, amongst which we may mention the Hotel de Liege, wliich is in the midst of tlie
narrow valley in which Chaudfontaine is situated.

INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER.

H St. Servais.

I St. Antoine.

J Ci-devant St. Andre.

K Si. Barthelemy.

L University.

IVI Theatre.

N Palace.

O Town-house.
P Roval College.
Q St." Remade.
R Phi ip's Bath.
S B.shop's Palace.
T Seminary.
U St. Nicholas.

V St. Pholien.
X Soiirds-IVIuets.

Y Musical School.
Z Draper's Hall.

a a Hospital of Bavaria.
b b Slanshter House.
c c Market.

LIEGE.

Hotels. — Hotel du Pavilion Anglais, Place
St. Lambert ; Hotel de I'Europe, Place de la
Comedie ; Hotel de Londres, Place de la Co-
medle; Hotel de I'Aigle Noir, Rue Feronstree;
Hotel de France, Rue du Dragon d'Or ; Hotel
de Suede, Place de la Comedie,

CHIEF THINGS TO BE SEEN IS LIEGE.

1. The Cathedral.

2. The Bishop's Palace.

3. Church of St. Jacques.

4. The Citadel, for the view from its summit.

Post Office. — Principal office, Place St.
Jean ; open from 7 o'clock in the morning, to
9 at night.

Exchange Office. — Passage Lemonnier.

Theatres. — Theatre Royal, Place de la
Comedie : comedies, dramas, great operas, and
comic operas are performed here on Sunday,
Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday.
Price of admittance : parquet and I st boxes,
3 fr. ; 2d boxes, 1 fr. 50 c. ; pit, 1 fr. 25 c.
Gymnase, near St. Jacques : light pieces and

THE RHINE BOOK.

dramas ; performs on the same days as the
Theatre Royal. Price of admittance, 1 st boxes,
2 fr. 50 c. ; parquet and 2d boxes, 1 fr. 50 c. ;
pit, 75 c.

Hacknet Coaches. — Vigilantes, Renais-
santes, Leopoldines, Dames Blanches ; stations
at every public square. Price, per course :
I horse, 50 c. ; 2 horses, 1 fr. : by the hour,
the 1st, 1 fr. 50 c.; the ensuing hours, each,
Ifr.

LIEGE, in Flemish Lvyck, and in Latin
Legia, a large and ancient town, formerly the
capital of the principality of that name, now the
chief town of the province, having a population
of 65,967 inhabitants according to a recent cen-
sus, is situated 50° 39' 22" N. lat., and 3° 1 1' 27"
E. longitude, in a fertile and pleasant valley on
the Maese, which crosses it, and at the conflu-
ence of the Ourte with that river. Two hills at
the distance of 1332 metres from each other,
St. Walburge and the Cornillon, overhang the
town, part of which rises as an amphitheatre on
the side of a hill commanded by the citadel,
which is 158 metres above the level of the sea.
The Maese, which flows between Huy and
Liege, widens as it approaches the latter town,
where it divides into two arms, one of which,
crossing part of the quarter called Outre- Meuse,
receives the Ourte at the bridge of St. Nicolas.
Liege appears to take its name from a small
stream called Legia, which flows down the vil-
lage of Ans, crosses the town by a subterranean
passage, and falls into the Maese above the
Pont des Arches : the common name of that
stream is now that of Ri de Coq Fontaine.

History. — The origin of Liege is ancient.
In 565, St. Monulph, bishop of Tongres, going
to the castle of Chievreniont, being struck with
the beauty of the situation, where, the legend
says, a flaming cross had been perceived, re-
solved to build a church there under the invo-
cation of St. Comus and St. Damian. In tliu
seventh century, St. Servais had transferred the
see of Tongres to Maestricht; in 712 St. Hu-
bert transferred it to Liege, and commenced the
construction of a church in honour of St. Peter.

Liege, which was already an important town,
was ravaged by the Normans in 882 ; its disas-
ters were to be repaired by Bishop Notger in
the tenth century. His government was iignal-
ised by immense works : thinking the cathedral
unworthy of so important a bishopric as that of
Liege, he had it demolished; and that rebuilt
under his orders, upon the same site, showed all
the grandeur of his conceptions. The memory
of this great bishop is still justly revered, and
he is considered as the real founder of the town.
From the thirteenth to the eighteenth centu-
ries, the history of Liege was a tissue of dis-
putes, disturbances, and wars between the
inhabitants of Liege and their bishops, who
were at the same time spiritual and temporal
sovereigns. The reigns of Albert de Cuick, of
John, Ferdinand, and Maximilian of Bavaria,
were marked by long and terrible dissensions.
The Emperor Otho IV., the Dukes of Bur-
gundy, Philip the Good, and Charles the Rash,
also had to punish the rebellious and turbulent
inhabitants of Liege : we have not room to
enter into the details of this period of civil war.
The temporal dominion of the bishops ended at
that of the French ; it had lasted about fourteen
centuries, and seen ninety bishops. The Prince
of Mean, who died archbishop of Mechlin, was
the last bishop-prince of Liege, which is at pre-
sent only the seat of a suffragan bishopric to
Mechlin.

The Town is divided into upjier and lower:
the houses of the upper i)art, adorned with gar-
dens, placed as it were one above the other, have
a delightful appearance when seen from below.
There are eleven public squares, among which
the Place St. Lambert, Place Verte, Place de la
Comedie and its neighbourhood, are the most
remarkable. The streets of Liege are in general
so narrow, that the authorities have fixed the
end at which several of them are to be entered
and (piitted by carriages : the high houses, by
which they are formetl, allow i)ut little air anil
light to penetrate; but in the new part there
are a few spacious streets and well-l)nilt houses.
The Ourte and the Maese, which flow through
the town, have rendered it necessurv to have

LIEGE.

several bridges : there are thirteen, the most
important of which is the Pont des Arches,
which crosses the Maese at its greatest width.

The Palace. — It was the former residence
of the bishop-princes. Its first foundations
were laid in 973 by Bishop Notger : it was
burnt in 1185 with part of the town, rebuilt a
short time after, burnt anew in 1505, and re-
built in 1508 by Evrard de la Marek, such as
it is now. The principal front, which looks
upon the Place St. Lambert, has an imposing
appearance ; but the interior court and the
back elevation are more curious. It is now
used as a palace of justice; it also contains the
archives : the galleries which surround the
court are occupied by numerous shops.

Town Hall (Hotel de Ville). — The first
stone was laid in 1714; the former town hall,
built at the end of the fifteenth century, had
been destroyed in the bombardment of 1601 by
Marshal de Boufflers : the present building is
regular, and has a handsome front, adorned
with a flight of steps.

Cathedral Church of St. Paul. — For-
merly the cathedra], under the invocation of
St. Lambert, rose upon the fine square of that
name : gold and silver statues decorated its nu-
merous chapels ; round the choir, closed by a
fine gilt balustrade, were ranged the tombs of
the ecclesiastical princes of Liege. St. Paul,
made into a cathedral in 1793, was built in 968.
The church was rebuilt in the thirteenth cen-
tury ; the only part left of that period is the
back of the choir ; each following century has
added something to its architecture. A fine
figure of Christ, in bronze, by Delcourt, an
artist of Liege, attracts the eyes of the visitor
as he enters the church. Several pictures are
worthy of attention. A bust of St. Lambert,
of silver gilt, is preserved in the treasury of this
church ; the bones of the holy patron of Liege
are said to be contained in it : it is a remark-
able work of jewellery for the period, for it was
in 1513 that Bishop Evrard de la Marck or-
dered it to be executed. It cost seven years'
labour, and 100,000 crowns.

St. Jacques. — This is the wonder of Liege ;

in fact nothing can be imagined so majestic,
elegant, and light as this immense church. This
master-piece was built in the year 1014.

St. Martin. — This church was founded in
962 by the Bishop Eracle, upon an eminence
which overlooks the town ; it was destroyed in
1302 in a bloody struggle between the nobility
and the citizens, and was only rebuilt in 1542.
The festival of the Holy Sacrament, or the Fete
Dieu, which all the Catholic world now cele-
brates, was celebrated for the first time in the
church of St. Martin.

The University, established by a royal de-
cree of Sept. 25. 1816, is a building on the
banks of the Maese, on the ruins of the church
of the Jesuits. It contains a library consisting
of 75,000 volumes, a collection of medals, a ca-
binet of natural philosophy and astronomy, a
chemical laboratory, a mineralogical collection,
and a cabinet of zoology, &c. &c.

The Botanical Garden, in which the clas-
sification is made according to the method of
Jussieu, contains more than 3500 sorts, and the
hothouses and orangery more than 2000. Liege
possesses a school of arts and manufactures, an
artillery school, a veterinary establishment, a
royal institution for deaf and dumb persons, a
royal conservatory of music, an academy of
drawing, painting, sculpture, architecture, en-
graving, and carving.

Citadel. — The foundation was laid in 1255
by Bishop Henri de Guildre, upon the heights
of St. Walburge : it was afterwards demolished
and then rebuilt ; taken and retaken by the
French ; and its fortifications were only rebuilt
in 1820. The traveller should ascend to its
summit, if it were only to enjoy the magnifi-
cent panorama presented by Liege, the Maese,
and its tributaries. On the right bank of the
river is the Chartreuse, another fortress, a quar-
ter of a league from the town.

Commerce. — Trade is very flourishing at
Liege : the railway which, on its way from Os-
tend and Antwerp, goes by Liege to the fron-
tiers of Prussia, cannot but increase the pros-
perity of this town. It has several manufactories
and founderies for working metals and for the

THE EHINE BOOK

building of steam-engines ; it has also a cannon
and zinc foundery. The manufacture of wea-
pons is very considerable, and they are exported
to the amount of several millions of francs
yearly. The numerous coal mines of the pro-
vince also form one of the most considerable
branches of trade of the country.

Celebrated ^Ien. — Demarteau (Gilles),
the inventor of engraving after the manner of
crayons, born in 1729, died in 1776; Gretry
(Andre Ernest IModeste), a celebrated composer,
whose reputation has become European, born
in 1741, died in 1812; Laicelle (Gerard de), a
painter, born in 1640, died in 1711.

I II- LIE AND THE MEU;-h.

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.

THE CITY OF CHARLEMAGNE. — THE LEGENDS OF AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.

ROM Liege to Aix-la- Chapelle the distance, which

is not great, is soon traversed by railway, and

jf as the Rhine aAvaits him, the traveller will scarcely

feel interested in the names of the unimportant places

Avhicli the train hurries by. Yerviers is the principal

station, but all that need be said of it is, that its twenty

thousand inhabitants are chiefly employed in the manufacture

of cloth, much of which is used for the army. Verviers finds

uniforms as Liege finds muskets for the Belgian troops, and,

indeed, for the soldiers of a considerable portion of Northern Germany.

Aix-la-Chapelle is the city of Charlemagne — the man of his age
— whose spirit i-egenerated "Western Europe after the Roman empire had
been destroyed. With almost boundless ambition, he was not a mere
conqueror, but a statesman and legislator also, and hence his ambition was
elevated and enlarged, and w^-ought out great and noble results. His was the
task to curb within the bounds of discipline the turbulent Franks ; his the power
to subdue for the general welfare the insubordinate vassals of an extensive
kino-dom. The founder of the German Empire, he changed tribes of lawless
barbarians into a federation of civilised people, driving the Saracens beyond the
Ebro, overthrowing the Longobards in Italy, and including under his rule
Germany, the Netherlands, the Gauls, the greater part of Italy and Spain, with
the Balearic Islands, Corsica and Sardinia. From the Ebro to the mouth of the
Elbe, from the Atlantic to the mountains of Bohemia and the Raab, and from
the British Channel to the Volturno, all were ruled by the head and hand that
made its home in Aix. There did Charlemagne rest himself between his cam-
paigns ; there he deliberated in council, and amidst its green shades thought out
the plans for extending and cementing his empire. At Aix-la-Chapelle he
received embassies from the Caliph of Bagdad ; there he entertained envoys from
the Saxon kings of England, with whom he was on terms of friendship ; and there
he endeavoured to advance literature and general enlightenment by the only means
then known, — by the foundation of monasteries and the encouragement of the only
learned men of those days, the priests. In fine, Aix was the scene of the most
interesting personal and domestic episodes in the brilliant career of Chai'lemagne.
At the close of a winter's evening an old and venerable-looking man was seen

70 THE RHINE BOOK.

busily engaged digging a grave in a small churchyard on the banks of the Maine
outside Frankfurt. His grizzled locks told the number of years that had passed
over his broAV ; but his frame was yet hale and vigorous, and as he cast up the earth
from the deepening pit, two or three curious idlers stood watching his toils and
listening to the ditty, half sung half chaunted, with which he lightened his labours.

^i^e ^ong of tijc C5rntic--Biggcr.

I delve — I delve — in the earth full deep,

A bed for the troubled mourner's sleep ;

And dark and lonesome, dank and dread,

ITie clayey couch I smooth for the dead ;

Yet though noisome, dark, and drear,

No voice of complaint from The Dead I hear ;
Each is content with his narrow room,
The Grave gives calm till the Day of Doom.

I've lived — long years — three score and ten.

And I've dug the graves of a hundred men :

A grave for the maiden, yoimg and fair,

A grave for the child with its flowing hair;

The widow'd mother in accents wild.

Calls on me for her only child,

But no silken sleeper so still as they

Who seek their rest in the churchyard clay.

I delve — I delve — and the selfsame spade

With which the miser's grave was made

Ere two summers their course had run,

Shap'd a place for his spendthrift son ;

The High and the Lowly — my spade so old

For each has fasliion'd tlie grave-yard mould ;
No couch of down is from care so free
As the bed that is made by my spade and me.

The lookers-on still lingered about the newly-made grave, although night
drew on apace and a chilling wind came gustily across the Maine. The city was
full of anxiety; flying rumours of all sorts were current, and such was the
temper of the times, that those most improbable were the most greedily
listened to, and the most implicitly believed. Their almost worshii)pod Emperor
Charlemagne was amongst them, but not of them. He mourned for the lo.ss of
his beautiful consort Frastrade, and no man could comfort him. For three Ions
weeks had she been dead, but still the monarch would iu)t hear death spoken of.
She did but sleep, he said, and although her body had long given forth sufficient

ArX-LA-CHAPELLE.

proof that even an Empress must obey the universal destiny, " unto dust thou
shalt return;" although the once lovely form, full of life and blooming like an
early rose, had been stricken with the cold, heavy, waxen hue of death ; although
the face long famed for beauty showed the unmistakeable traces of the Destroyer,
and was blackening to the hue of the earth, the final destiny of all flesh ; although
the freshest flowers of the garden, and the strongest frankincense of the Eastern
merchant were too weak to drown the most disgusting of the proofs that death
had been there ; — still the Emperor clung to the chamber of his beloved, and would
not abate his watchfulness " till Frastrade woke."

Meantime the affairs of the empire were falling into confusion for want of the
iron hand of Charlemagne. Provinces were on the eve of revolt, and foreign
foes were mustering their forces to take advantage of the sudden madness of the
Emperor, and the confusion of his ministers. Things were in this state when,
worn by anxiety and thought, the chief councillor, the Archbishop of Rheims,
walked forth for refreshaient on the banks of the Maine. It was a moonlight
night, but gusty withal, dark clouds driving across the heavens as though one
grotesque form chased another to see which should most quickly obscure the
face of the luminary, and then drive onward towards the horizon. The Arch-
bishop gazed on all this, and was within himself comparing the shadows to the
Evil Spirit that was clouding the destiny of the Emperor, when, as he neared
the gi'ave-yard, the largest cloud in the heavens shut out the moon. For a
moment all was darkness, when the huge vapour seemed to open in the midst for
a short space, and then through the rift shot down one bright gleam of light, the
more brilliant for the surrounding gloom. " A good omen," murmured the old man ;
and as he gazed upon the spot where the light fell, he was gradually aware of a form
of surpassing majesty built up of the glittering moonbeam; transparent, yet real.
" I am the good genius of Charlemagne," said the vision, in tones like the dying
echoes of music over a frozen lake, cold, clear, yet beautiful : " I come to teach you
how to remove the shadow from his spirit. He sleeps ; dig where I stand a grave,
and let the festering body of Frastrade lie in it. But mark ! ere you touch her
corpse, search beneath her tongue, and take what you will find there." As IT
spoke, the cloud passed from the moon, and the outlines of the Apparition expanded
on every side until it seemed to wrap all things in a robe of glorious moonlight.

The Ai-chbishop of Eheims was the boldest as well as most trusty of the
councillors, and, after a moment's thought, he hurried towards the grotesquely
carved door which marked the abode of the 2;ravedigg:er.

" No silken sleeper so calm as they

Who seek a couch in the churchyard clay,"

sang a voice from the low-roofed hovel, as though finishing a song. " Ay, ay,"

72 THE RHINE BOOK.

said the cliurchnian, " the sexton is still a-foot, aud this night will I fulfil the
injunction so marvellously laid upon me."

In half an hour the grave was begun, and the song of the old sexton seemed
to help him on with his work, and in half an hour the Archbishop stood in the
chamber of Frastrade. The corpse lay on a couch as though asleep, and the
Emperor, exhausted by watching, slept, kneeling at the bedside, his head resting
on one of the festering hands of his once lovely spouse. With careful foot and
cautious hand the churchman approached the dead ; the canopy was drawn aside,
and, half trembling, he looked curiously at the form before him. The eyes were
open, staring with a fixed glassy look, as though to scare the living from the
spot ; the cheeks were sunken, and the nose pinched up ; the jaw had fallen, and,
as he peered into the open mouth, he saw that the tongue was shrunk and
shrivelled up, exposing just one corner of a glittering gem buried beneath it.
With hasty though nervous fingers he seized the brilliant token, and, as he moved
it from its long-hidden socket, a loud wail, as of mortal agony, startled the silence
of the chamber of death, and aroused the king. Hastily concealing the treasure
within his robe, he approached the monarch, who, rising from his knees, threw
himself, as in an ecstasy, into the Archbishop's arms.

The spell was broken.

Throwing a glance of horror at the remains of his wife, Charlemagne joyfully
left the chamber, and even as he went agreed to the Councillor's arrangements
for her burial. The stealthy grave so hastily prepared was unnecessary, for the
king now wished the interment, and the body was borne in stately procession from
Frankfurt to Mayence, where a tomb, still to be seen, was raised to the memory of
Frastrade. At the Archbishop's desire, also, he took his seat in the Hall of
Audience, and resumed the duties of his state. Once more the Empire was put
in order, and all things went well, for the churchman had really at heart the
welfare of his sovereign and the extension of his power, and all that he suggested
Charlemagne obediently agreed to. All the courtiers saw with surprise that a
new idol had taken the place of the dead Empress. Dignities and riches were
heaped on the new possessor of the mysterious charm ; but the favours gave rise to
less than usual envy, since he who received them dispensed them again with a
bountiful hand, as though he sought to retain not one of the gifts so lavishly
bestowed. Frastrade's power over Charlemagne had often led to wixv and
punishment, — the Archbishop of Kheims used his influence for the honour of the
state and the comfort of the courtiers. But the secret was irksome to its pos-
sessor, and long he pondered how he should destroy the spell. At length, when
the court was at Aix-la-Chapelle, he determined to rid himself of the mystic
jewel, and choosing a dark night he left the palace, and by a well-known patli
sought a deep pool near the centre of a morass, which he liad nuvrked before us

" RELICS " AT AIX- LA-CHAPELLE. 73

suitable to his purpose from its being a spot seldom visited and not easy of access,
and hence most suitable for concealing the gem which he determined that no man
should find. Coming to the spot, he held the shining bauble for a moment over
the da7-k still waters — loosed his hold — and down, down, down, he saw it sink,
as though the pit was bottomless, and the gem's ray of light was unwilling to be
quenched for ever.

Next morning the court were surprised to find that the archbishop's influence
was gone, and that the Emperor found no pleasure but in wandering round about
the city alone. At length his walks were confined to one spot, a pool in the
midst of a morass. There he would sit by the hour gazing upon the still waters,
and after a while he built himself a home — the Castle of Frankenburg — the ruins
of which the Traveller may yet see near Aix-la-Chapelle, and as he approaches
the legend-haunted spot by a bridge which crosses the sedgy pool, he may peer in
its waters, and seek what has never since been found — Frastrada's Spell.

FEW years after the death of his best-loved wife, Charlemagne built
La Chapelle, which has ever since given the city its French name ;
and which to our time contains his tomb, or rather so much of it as
sacrilege has left, and his epitaph of two words, " Carolo Magno."
He died in 814, and was buried with great pomp.* His body was
placed in a sitting posture, xipon a stone chair, surrounded by the parapher-
nalia of royalty, and for three centuries it remained sacred. In the twelfth
century, however, Frederic Barbarossa opened the tomb that he might sit in the
stone chaii*, and after that time the German Emperors used it as the seat of state

* Victor Hugo makes Aix-la-Chapelle the birth-place of Charlemagne, which is an error. He
was born at Salzburg in Bavaria. The same clever Frenchman describes some royal visits to
Aix-la-Chapelle. " In 1804, just when Bonaparte had progressed into Napoleon, he visited Aix-
la-Chapelle. Josephine, who accompanied him, indulged in the caprice of sitting upon this marble
throne. But the Emperor, though he did not control this indecorous whim of his Creole wife,
had attired himself for the occasion, from a d-eep sense of deference to that mighty name, in full
regimentals, and "stood silent, motionless, and bareheaded, before the chair of Charlemagne.
Charlemagne died in 814. In 1814, one thousand years afterwards, almost to an hour, occurred
the fall or moral death of Napoleon. In the course of the same fatal year the allied sovereigns
visited the grave of Charles the Great ; when Alexander of Russia mounted his gala-uniform in
imitation of Napoleon, while Frederick William of Prussia appeared in an undress, and the
Emperor of Austria in a great coat and round hat. The King of Prussia entered into all the
details of the coronations of the German emperors, with the provost of the Chapter : but the two
emperors observed a profound silence. All these are now as silent as Charlemagne ! Napoleon,
Josephine, Alexander, Frederick William, and Francis II., are cold in their graves I" — \^Excursions
along the Batiks of the Rhine. By Victor Hugo. London: H. Colburn, 1843.]

THE RHINE BOOK.

at their coronations. The sword and sceptre of the Conqueror are gone, but his
chair remains an enduring memento of his sepulchre in the cathedraL Various
bones and other relics are in the church, some of which are shown (for a con-sid-
er-a-ti-on) and others hidden from the ordinary visitor. He may believe or doubt
their genuineness, as he pleases, but he will scarcely be able to control the thoughts
that will suggest themselves when he sees the skull and arm of Charlemagne made
a show of to coax a few francs from the pockets of the sight-seer. The present
King of Prussia is a man of good taste : why does he not say a word to stop this
sacrilegious insult to the memory of the regenerator of Western Europe ?

The Cathedral is full of interest to the architect as well as the anti(]uary, for
both find amongst its incongruities various choice specimens of different ages,
styles, and tastes. At one of the entrances is seen a bronze wolf, placed there to
keep in memory a monkish legend, told to all travellers, and thus rendered from
the tradition of the place into English by a IMr. White, in a volume published by
M. Koluien at Aix-la-Chapelle.

" In former times the zealous and devout inhabitants of Aix-la-Chapelle determined to build
a cathedral. For six months the clang of the hammer and axe resounded with wonderful activity,
but alas ! the money which had been supplied by pious Christians for this holy work became
exhausted, the wages of the masons were suspended, and with them their desire to hew and
hammer, for, after all, men were not so very religious in those days as to build a temple on
credit.

" Thus it stood, lialf finished, resembling a falling ruin. Moss, grass, and wild parsley flourished
in the cracks of the walls, screech-owls already discovered convenient places for their nests, and
amorous sparrows hopped lovingly about where holy priests should have been teaching lessons of
chastity.

" The builders were confounded, they endeavoured to borrow here and there, but no rich man
could be induced to advance so large a sum. The collections from house to house fell short, so
that instead of the much-wished-for golden foxes nothing was found but cop])er in the l)ushes.
When the magistracy received this report they were out of humour, and looked witli desponding
countenances towards the cathedral walls, as fathers look upon the remains of favourite chikiren.

" At this moment a stranger of commanding figure and something of pride in his voice and bearing
entered, and exclaimed ' lion Dies ! they say that you are out of sjiirits. Hem ! if nothing but
money is wanting, you may console yourselves, gentlemen. I possess mines of gold and silver,
and both can and will most willingly supply you with a ton of it.'

" The astounded senators sat like a row of (lillars, measuring the stranger from head to foot.
The Burgomaster first found his tongue. ' Who are you, noble lord,' said he, 'that thus, entirely
unknown, speak of tons of gold as though they were sacks of beans? Tell us your name, your
rank in this world, and whether you are sent from the regions above to assist us.' ' I have not
the lionour to reside there,' replied the stranger, ' and, between ourselves, I beg most particularly
to be no longer troubled with questions concerning who :iiul \rliat I am. Sulliee it to say I have
gold plentifid as summer hay !' Tlien, drawing forth a leatiiern ])oui-li. he ))roceeded : • this
little piu-se contains the tenth of what I'll give. 'i'lie rest shall soon bo forthcoming. Now listen,
my masters,' continued he, clinking the coin, 'all (his truminry is and shall remain yours if you

promise to give me the first little soul that enters the door of the new temple when it is con-
secrated.'

" The astonished senators now sprung from their seats as if they had been shot up by an earth-
quake, and then rushed pele-mele, and fell all of a lump into the farthest corner of the room, where
they rolled and clung to each other like lambs frightened at flashes of lightning. Only one of the
party, who had not entirely lost his wits, collected his remaining senses, and, drawing his head out
of the heap, uttered boldly, ' Avaunt, thou wicked spirit !'

" But the stranger, who was no less a person than Master Urian, laughed at them. ' What's all
this outcry about ? ' said he at length: ' is my offence so heinous that you are all become like
children ? It is I that may suffer from this business, not you. With my hundreds and thousands
I have not far to run to buy a score of souls. From you I ask but one in exchange for all my
money. What are you picking at straws for? One may plainly see you are a mere set of
humbugs ! For the good of the commonwealth (which high-sounding name is often borrowed
for all sorts of purposes) many a prince would instantly conduct a whole army to be butchered,
and you refuse one single man for that purpose ! Fie ! I am ashamed, O overwise counsellors,
to hear you reason thus absurdly and citizen-like. What, do you think to deprive yourselves of
the kernel of your people by granting my wish ? O no, there your wisdom is quite at fault, for,
depend on it, hypocrites are always the earliest churchbirds.'

" By degrees, as the cunning fiend thus spoke, the senators took courage and whispered in each
other's ear, 'What is the use of our resisting? The grim lion will only show his teeth once —
if we don't assent, we shall infallibly be packed off ourselves. It is better, therefore, to quiet him
directly.' Scarcely was this sanguinary contract concluded when a swarm of purses flew into the
room through the doors and windows, and Urian, more civil than before, took leave without
leaving any smell behind. He stopped, however, at the door, and called out with a grim leer,
' Count it over again for fear that I may have cheated you.'

" Tlie hellish gold was piously expended in finishing the cathedral, but nevertheless, when the
building shone forth in all its splendour, the whole town was filled with fear and alarm at the
sight of it. The fact was that, although the senators had promised by bond and oath not to trust
the secret to any body, one of them had prated to his wife, and she had made it a market-place
tale, so that all declared they would never set foot within the temple. The terrified council now
consulted the clergy, but the good priests all hung down their heads. At last a monk cried out,
' A thought strikes me. The wolf which has so long ravaged the neighbourhood of our town
was this morning caught alive. This will be a well-merited punishment for the destroyer of our
flocks ; let him be cast to the devil in the fiery gulf. 'Tis possible the arch hell-hound may not
relish this breakfast, yet nolens volens he must swallow it. You promised him certainly a soul,
but whose was not decidedly specified.'

" The monk's plan was plausible, and the senate determined to put the cunning trick into
execution. At length the day of consecration arrived, and orders were given to bring the wolf to
the principal entrance of the cathedral ; so just as the bells began to ring the trap-door of the cage
was pulled open, and the savage beast darted out into the nave of the empty church. Master
Urian from his lurking-place beheld this consecration-offering with the utmost fury. Burning
with choler at being thus deceived he raged like a tempest, and then rushed forth, slamming the
brass gate so violently after him that the rings split in two.

" This crack, which serves to commemorate the priest's victory over the tricks of the devil,
is still exhibited to the gaping travellers who visit the cathedral."

Thus much for the Legend. But although the devil was thus disappointed at

THE RHINE BOOK.

the Cathedral, he has since been revenged most amply upon Aix ; for he came
afterwards in the disguise of a rich German baron, and established gaming-tables in
the town. From that day he has secured an ample supply of victims ; for Aix-
la-Chapelle is the only place in the Prussian dominions where gambling is per-
mitted ; and hence all those infatuated by the Daemon of Chance fly to its waters
for health, and to its tables for destruction. Could the history of the Comphaus-
bad-Strasse be told, it would make a frightful tale of blighted hopes, lost fortunes,
and early despair — of sin, disgrace, and suicide — the seldom-failing fate of the
Gambler.

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.

INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER.

1 c&ihedral.

2 Evangelical Church

3 Town Hall.

4 Theatre.

5 "Elisenbronnen — Mineral spring

6 Government Offices,

7 Post Office.

8 Barracks.

9 Freemasons" jLoiige.

U KLaiserbad — Baths of the Empeboii
12 Baths of Quirinus

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.

HOTELS.

Hotel du Grand Monarque.

Hotel of the Four Seasons, by M. Kostelezky
— a good house, and near the Railway.

Hotel du Dragon d'Or.

Hotel du Rhin, by Madame Haamann. Rue
St. Jacques, near the Royal Post Office.

Hotel de la Couronne Imperiale.

Hotel de la Tourelle.

Hotel d'Angleterre.

Hotel de I'Europo.

Hotel de I'Empereur.

The Grand Hotel.

Hotel de Charlemagne.

Hotel de Belle Vue.

H6tel de St. Martin.

Hotel of the Great Elephant.

Hotel de Mayence.

Hotel of the King of Spain.

THE RHINE UOOK.

CHIEF THINGS TO BE SFEN IN AIX-LA-CHAI'ELLE.

The Cathedral.

The Town Hall.

The Eliza Fountain.

The Baths.

Those travellers who stay more than a few
hours in Aix will find the environs of the city
very interesting, and may visit : —

Schonthal.

Schbnforst.

Cornelymunster.

Ileidchen.

Helenens Werth.

Emmaburg.

Laurensberg.

Kaisersriih.

Kalkofen.

Le Viaduct.

Wilhelmstein.

StoUberg.

Vaels.

Louisberg.

Forest of Pauline.

Forest of Trimborn.

Le monument des Monarques.

The tower of the Ramparts aftbrds an ex-
cellent view of the city.

THE WATERS OF AIX-LA-CH APELLE,

As the waters of Aix are its great sources of
attraction, the following information from the
work of Dr. Wetzlar, a talented physician of the
place, will be read with interest.

A peculiar taste of common salt, some alka-
line substances, and sulphur, is common to all
warm springs. The sulphureous taste and
smell are stronger in those which are called the
Higher than in the Lower springs. Their
temperature is between 135° and 1 15° of Fahr. ;
the specific weight is about the same in all, of
1 -004, the specific weight of common distilled
water, of the same temperature, taken at 1 'OOO.
These waters, when taken directly from the
spring, are clear and without any colour, but
having been exposed for a little time to the air,
they become dim, and a white sediment is

formed. If the water is exposed to the air for
a longer time, it loses all its smell and taste of
sulphur.

The difference between the single sulphu-
reous springs is considerable, though they agree
in many essential points. The springs which
originate in the upper part of the town (in the
Biichelstrasse and on the Ikittcrmarkt.) and
supply the bath-houses situated there, and also
the Elisenbrunnen, with water, are called the
Higher springs. Those which supply the
bath-houses in the Compesbadstrasse and on the
Daracngraben are called the Lower springs.
The former have a higher temperature, and
contain more solid and volatile substances than
the latter. Great choice is therefore left to the
physician, in prescribing the use of the bath he
may think most proper for his patient. The
higher springs are, the Emperor's, the Quirinus
spring, and a little spring in front of the Em-
peror's bath. The lower are, the Rosenbad
(Rosebath) spring, the Cornelius spring, and
the spring of the old drinking-well. All these
springs contain a great many solid substances,
chiefly salts and gases. Sixteen ounces of
water taken from the Emperor's spring con-
tain : —

Sulphuret of sodium
Muriato of siula
Carbonate of soda
Sulphate of soda -
Phos])hate of soda
Animal organic substance
Silicate oxide
Fluorate of lime -
Carbonate of lime
Phosphate of soda and litliia]
Carbonate of magnesia
Carbonate of strontia J

Grains.
Of)ll)78
20-71572
(i-60956
2-12083
0-U.24G
0-29:W4
5X(;()0
0-47i)23
0-23224

0-19545

Total grains SlO+rill

The quantity of gases issuing constantly out
of the springs is very considerable; 100 cubic
inches of those gases taken from the Emperor's
spring have been found to consist of: —

Nitrogen gas
Carbonic gas
Super-sulphuretted hydrogen gas J

09* cubic inches.
30

The chemist 1 have already (]uoted was. ac-
cording to my oi)inion, fully entitled to call
the hydro-sulphuric gas of oiu- springs

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.

super-sulphuretted hydrogen gas, because
this gas is proved to contain more sulphur than
is necessary for forming the common hydro-
sulphuric gas ; for though a part of the
sulphur contained in the gas leaves it, and com-
bines itself with surrounding colder objects, as
soon as the water loses a little of its high tem-
perature, yet the hydro-sulphuric gas left in it
continues to act chemically in the very same
way as the gas we prepare in our laboratories.
There can be hardly any doubt, that by sub-
terraneous heat and compression, hydrogen gas
combines with a larger proportion of sulphur
than it can in the open air, which accounts for
the circumstance, that a large quantity of pure
sulphur is deposited in a sediment in the water
reservoirs, and the tubes which conduct the
waters from different springs to baths or foun-
tains lying at soine distance from them.

The temperatures of the several springs are
as follows : —

The Emperor's spring is 135A degrees.
Quiriiius spring IITA ditto.
Lower springs 115i

There are eight bath-houses, four of which
derive their water from the higher sources and
four from the lower : —

1. The Emperor's bath (Bain de I'Empe-
reur, Rue Biichel,) is supplied with water by a
hot sulphureous spring issuing from the large
rock, upon the summit of which the market
square and the town hall stand, forming what is
called the Emperor's well ; and by another
spring of the same temperature, issuing in front
of this bath-house. The Emperor's Well fur-
nishes so large a quantity of water that it gives
an ample supply to two other bath-houses, and
to the Fontaine Elise.

2. The New Bath Hotel is a large and
splendid building, newly erected in the same
street. It obtains an abundant supply of water
from the Emperor's spring.

3. The Bain de la Reine de Hongrie, situ-
ated on the Buttermarkt, deriving its water
from the same spring.

4. The Bain St. Quirin is provided with
water from the Quirinus spring.

3. The Rosebath Hotel, situated in the Rue
Compesbad, is supplied with water from the
Rosebath spring, issuing in the yard of the
hotel.

6. & 7. The Cornelius and Charles baths
obtain the water necessary for their use from
the Cornelius spring, issuing in the yard of the
former. The three last-mentioned splendid
buildings stand close together in the Rue Com-
pesbad.

The before-mentioned bath-houses contain
bathing-rooms for common baths, as well as for
douches and pumping-baths. The apparatus
for douches is excellent. Large reservoirs are
in each bath-house, for cooling the warm
mineral water. Most of the bath-houses con-
tain vapour-baths of hot sulphureous water.
One great convenience in all the bath-houses is,
that furnished apartments, at various prices,
according to the elegance or comfort of the
rooms, can be obtained by persons taking a
course of waters. Patients who prefer residing
in a bath-house should be guided in their
choice, as much by the springs their physician
prescribes for their complaints, as by the com-
forts they are desirous of meeting wltli.

Poor patients are not forgotten at Aix-la-
Chapelle, and a bath-house in the Damengraben
is appropriated to their use, where they may
bathe for a very trifling sum.

Persons who drink the waters may do so in
their bath-houses, but the water of the Fon-
taine Elise is generally preferred. It is situ-
ated in Frederic William Square, one of the
finest parts of the town. Its facade, 266 feet
long, is ornamented in the Doric style. In the
centre is a Rotunda, 56}^ feet in diameter, and
46 feet in height. Colonnades, forming a
covered promenade 180 feet long, issue from
the rotunda. There is a pavilion on both sides
containing rooms for refreshments. The foun-
tain is in the rotunda. Two staircases lead
down to it ; and for patients who are not equal
to the task of walking down, tumblers of water
are wound up from the depth of the rotunda,
by a mechanical contrivance. The rotunda is
decorated with a marble bust of Eliza, Queen

THE RHINE BOOK.

of Prussia, who was pleased to give lier name
to the fountain. Tlie scjuare in which the
fountain is situated is adorned with trees,
which alFord ample shade from the sun to those
who use exercise to digest the water.

THE HIGHER, OR JIURIATIC ALKALINE SPRINGS.

1. The Kochbrunnen, or Boiling Well. —
This is situated in the town of Borcette, in a
small valley formed by the two mountains upon
the declivities of which the town is built. Its
temperature is 140°, its specific weight 1-004.
It is surrounded by a wall, and forms a well, in
the centre of which the spring issues from some
small clefts between the rocks.

2. A spring issuing in the Krebsbad (Cray-
fish) Bath-house, almost of the same qualities as
the preceding, having a temperature of 15.3°.

3. The hottest spring of Borcette, being
171°, by which four bath-houses are supplied
with water.

4. A Muriatic Alkaline spring, rising in the
garden of the Crayfish bath-house, 153° of tem-
perature, which furnishes a large quantity of
hot sulphureous water to the Ilosebath hotel,
ur.ed there for baths.

According to Monheim's analysis, 16 ounces
of the mineral water from each of the several
springs contain —

The Boiling Well.

The Drink-

Boiling Well

ing Sprinn.

Grains.

Sulphuret of sodium

- O-2909S

Muriate of soda -

- 20-G24()2

20-710%

Carbonate of soda

G-r)!»!)oO

GG.5103

Sulphate of sod:i-

- 2-r>(J704

2'M'JM)

Phos|)liate of soda

- n-i.iir)4

0-149!U

Animal orpaiiic substance

- 0'20835

0-M371

Silicate acid - - -

O-.'i.ViSO

0-5-)5'.l.'J

Fluate of lime

- o-4Hri4r)

0-r,0-i34

(;arl)onate of lime

- 0-240(;'J

0-3()83.")

Carl)on;iti' ol maj,'iipsia '.

)

Carbonate of strontian

>■ - 0-ir)r)!i(;

()-20421

rhosphate of soda-litliia .

Total grains 31-87233

32-25.5<J0

The gases contained in the waters of Borcette
are in the following pr()])ortions : — 100 cubic
inches of the gases emanating from tlie si)rings
consist of —

T/ic Drinking Spring.

Nitrogen gas
Carbonic gas
Oxygen gas -

The lloUesl Spring.

Nitrogen gas
Carbonic gas
Oxygen gas -

Cubic in.
- 71-5
. 28-4
-I

Cubic in.

- 71-3.5

- -1.5

Nitrogen gas
(Carbonic tias
Hydriisulpliuric gas

Cultic in.

7075

■2!) (15

-20

The Traveller's passport is examined at Aix by
the Prussian authorities. Tlie commissionaire
of any of the hotels will see tliis attended to for
half a franc.

The Cathedral, (in German Milnster), —
is situated in the centre of tlie town, and was
originally built by Charlemagne, by whose
order the work was commenced in 796, and
finished in 804. Tliis building is recorded to
have been one of the most magnificent of Char-
lemagne's time, but it was very much injured by
an earthquake in 813, by the Normans who
plundered it, and by the conflagrations in 1 14G,
1234, 1236, and 1656, and has in consequence
underffone several material chantres. It is of an
octagonal form, forty-eight feet in diameter,
with a gallery running round it, communicating
with the choir. The granite and jiorphyry
columns, which originally supported the arches
of this gallery, were removed by the French to
Paris, but the greater part of them have been
brought back. The choir was commenced in
1353, and finished in 1413, and is a fine speci-
men of Gothic architecture. The tomb of Charle-
magne is in the centre of the floor, covered
by an unusually large flagstone, inscribed
with the simple words, — " Carolo Magno."
The marble chair upon which the deceased
Emperor was found sitting, and which all
German Emperors afterwards occupied during
the coronation is still to be seen in the Cathe-
dral, Tlie large and splendid chandelier sus-
pended over the tomb was presented to the
church by the Emperor Frederic Barbarossa.
Eight chapels surround the Cathedral, and are
connected with it by entrances through the
walls. In one of them (the Chapel ofthe Holy
Cross) there is a magnificent altar-jiiece, wiiii-li
consists of a crm-ilix carved in wood. 'I'lieio
are inaiiy rare and precious objects in (lie

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.

Cathedral, the greater pait of which were ob-
tained as presents from the kings and queens
who were crowned at Aix-la-Chapelle in former
times. Persons visiting the Cathedral should
not omit seeing the magnificent sarcophagus of
Parian Marble, sculptured in alto-relievo,
which represents the Rape of Proserpine.
This Cathedral possesses a vast number of relics,
which are divided into two classes. Those of
the first class are the most sacred ; those of less
importance constitute a second class. The
latter are visible at all times, but the former are
only shown once in seven years, when they are
exposed to the view of the faithful during a
fortnight. An exception to this rule is some-
times made in favour of sovereign princes, who
are indulged with a sight of the grand relics, as
a special favour, at other periods.

Town Hall, built in 1353, a remarkable
edifice in the old German style. On the east
and west it is flanked by lofty towers ; that to
the east is called Granus Tower. A larsre
staircase of flagstone, built in 1730, leads to the
chief entrance. On the third story is the saloon
in which the congress of 1748 was held, when
the treaty of peace, called the Peace of Aix-
la-Chapelle, was concluded. It contains the
separate portraits of the ambassadors who
signed the treaty. Of these, the portraits of
Prince Kaunitz and Lord Sandwich are con-
sidered to be the best. In this saloon, the
King of Prussia entertained the illustrious per-
sons staying here during the Congress in 1818.
The Town Hall also contains the portraits of
Napoleon and Josephine, painted by Bouchet
and Lefebre.

The Church of St. Nicholas contains three
noticeable pictures — one, the Descent from the
Cross, by Vandyke ; the two others by Diepen-
beck, one of the most skilful pupils of Rubens.

General Elliott, the defender of Gibraltar,
died at Kalkofen, near Aix.

History. — The great troubles directly
following Charlemagne's death had a very un-
favourable influence on the town. It gradually
lost the grandeur it had acquired under his sway.
In 898, it was taken and plundered by the

Normans, and was during thirty-eight years
exposed to the greatest disasters, until 0(iio I.
was there elected and crowned as King of
Germany. His coronation was celebrated with
the utmost pomp in the Cathedral. By Otho's
liberality the town became very flourishing.
His predilection for the place caused him to
reside there for a considerable period, when
leisure was left him to rest from the fatigues of
government. After his death a great many
misfortunes befel Aix. It was plundered in
978 by the troops of the French King Lothaire.
But notwithstanding this and other disasters,
the number of inhabitants increased with the
growing industry and the extension of the
woollen cloth manufactories, so that in 1171,
the town having becoine too small for the ac-
commodation of the people, the suburbs were
considerably enlarged. Aix-la-Chapelle was
visited with a great conflagration in August,
1224, by which the Cathedral was very much
damaged. Many magnificent palaces belonging
to ecclesiastical and other princes of the German
empire were destroyed, and the greater part of
the town w-as reduced to ashes. Aix-la-Chapelle
had scarcely recovered from this misfortune,
when another great fire caused an extensive de-
vastation. The town sustained in 1248 a long
and vigorous siege, commenced against it by
William, Count of Holland, at the head of a
large army, to support his claims to the empire
in opposition to those of Frederic II., who had
been excommunicated by Pope Innocent IV.
When the citizens had been reduced to the last
extremity of famine, a capitulation was agreed
upon, in consequence of which Count William
was crowned in the Cathedral. It would take
too much space to enumerate the thirty-six
German Emperors and Kings that have been
crowned at Aix.

In 1656 the town was a third time almost
destroyed by fire ; about 5000 houses, with the
principal public edifices, were either wholly
consumed or greatly damaged. INIost certainly
the place would never have recovered from that
disaster, if its springs and manufactories had not
provided ample means for its restoration.

THE RHINE BOOK.

In 166S tlie ambassadors of France, Spain,
England and Holland, met at Aix-la-Chapelle,
and agreed on the treaty wliich bears its name.

Amongst the visitors of the season in 1717
was the Russian Czar, Peter I. who paid great
attention to the cloth and needle manufactures,
and, upon visiting the Cathedral, is reported to
have stood for a long time in silence, contem-
plating the tomb of Charlemagne.

Tn 1748 this city was again the theatre of
diplomatic negotiations, representatives of all
the principal States of Europe having assembled
here to discuss the terms of pacification. This
peace, known as the peace of Aix-la-Chapelle,
did not last long, as in 1756 the great Seven
Years' War broke out. By the peace of Lune-
ville, Aix-la-Chapelle ceased to be a free and
imperial town belonging to the German empire,
and was united to France. Under the French
empire, the town formed a part of the Departe-
ment de la Roere. It cannot bo denied, that
Napoleon did much for the benefit of the town ;
and his benefits would not be less, even if that
wliich is maintained by many were true, that
his motive for i)rotecting Aix-la-Chapelle arose
from a degree of vanity ('very pardonable in the
eyes of tlie inhabitants) of looking upon himself
as a modern Charlemagne, for which reason he
was supposed to have imitated that hero even in
the most trifling points. .\fter Napoleon's
defeat, Aix-la-Chapelle was attached to the
kingdom of Prussia, at the congress of Vienna
in 1815. Tlie most important event for the
city under the present government was the con-
gress held in it in 1818. Aix-la-Chapelle was
crowded with sovereigns, princes, ministers, am-
bassadors and their suites, including Frederic
William III. of Prussia, the Emperor of Russia
Alexander I., the Emperor of Austria Francis
I., the Royal Prussian Princes, the Duke of
Wellington and Itichelieu, the Prussian Prime
Minister Count Bcrnstorff, Lord Castlereagh,
and the Due d'Angoultnie. One of the first
results of this congress was, the resolution

agreed upon to remove the allied troops from
France, which they had occupied since the
battle of Waterloo.

Aix-la-Chapelle is now the seat of a regency,
of a provincial court of justice, a collegiate abbey,
and a board for the decision of commercial suits.
It contains a cathedral, sixteen Roman Catholic
churches, one evangelical combined Protestant
church, in uhinli every Sunday at 12 o'clock
divine service is performed by an English Pro-
testant clergyman, and a synagogue, to which
Sir Moses Montefiore has contributed large
donations. Many schools have been established
by the government and city authorities. Tliere
are also other institutions, which will be alluded
to in the course of this treatise. — \_Dr. Jf'etzlar.']

The Town of Aix contains, according to
the last official accounts, 4,3,000 inhabitants.
It may be considered a very healthy place.
The surrounding hills sheltering it from rough
winds, inflammations are very rare ; and when
they occur, are in most cases far from violent.
Agues were frequent in Aix-la-Chapelle about
seven years ago, but now seldom occur, since
certain swamps lying in the vicinity of the town
have been drained, liy order of the government.

The small town of Boucette (in German,
BurtschiecT) derives its name from the Latin
Porcctum, which word was applied, in the
beginning of the tenth century to a large wood,
(the haunt of vast numbers of wild boars,) which
was then standing on the very spot now covered
by the town of Borcette. It is situated about
400 yards to the south of Aix-la-Chapelle. Its
origin is due to the Greek Prince Gregory, son
of the oriental Emperor Niccphoras Plioeas, and
brother-in-law to the German Emperor Otlio
II., who married his sister Theophania, A
Benedictine abbey was there founded by liim,
which induced many peojile to settle in its
vicinity. Thus a village took its rise, which,
partly by its springs, and partly by the industry
of its inhabitants, has increased so as to form at
this time a small town, with 5367 inhabitants.

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO PHE RHINE.

THE TRIP TO COLOGNE — THE BANKS OP THE RHINE.

^ HE " Road of Iron " is ready, when the Traveller has

exhausted Aachen, to bear him to Cologne and the banks
of the Rhine, where he will exchange steam ashore for
steam afloat, and continue his tour bj boat instead of rail.
From Aix to Cologne is but forty English miles ; and
what is that now-a-days? Little more than two hours'
journey ; but then those two hours carry the Traveller
into a difi^erent country. Belgium is French in its con-
versation and modes ; aye, even in Aix-la-Chapelle you
feel yourself in France, though the frontier was passed to reach it, and
lough the Prussian holds sway there. But when the baths are left behind,
the Tourist finds himself in another land. With more speed than the
Belgian lines display, he finds that steam is tugging him into Germany.
The language, the manners, and the costumes are changing.

A fine, though momentary, view of Borcette is had from the steam-carriage ; and
in a few minutes is seen on tlie left the Castle of Frankenburg, with its modern
additions to the ivy-clad ruin of Charlemagne's edifice. Just befoi'e entering the
Tunnel of Nirm, the village of that name is seen on the right. Camback Mill

84 THE RHINE BOOK.

affords a station : and, on starting again, we quickly pass the busy town of Stol-
berg (on the right), surrounded by its coal-tield ; the village of Punipe, with its
iron-works (on the left) ; and then, through a curved tunnel, to Eschweiler station,
where the old castle is being restored. The four round towers of Nothberg next
attract attention, and then a deep cutting leads us to the station of Langewehr.
The castle and village of Merode (on the right) soon succeed ; and then Diiren,
where Charles the Fifth was nearly killed whilst besieging the place ; next, a three-
miles'-long cutting through the high lands that separate the basins of the Meuse
and of the Rhine. The stations of Biiir and Horm next succeed, with the castle
of Frenz, and the mile-long tunnel of Konigsdorf — the longest in Germany ; then
the stations of Konigsdorf and Mungersdorf, and then the first view of Cologne.
Steaming by the walls, and passing some detached forts, the Tourist soon finds
himself at the terminus below the city, on the left bank of the Rhine.

Let the Traveller not be disappointed with the first glance at the river as he
sees it at Koln. He is yet some miles below the banks which have gained for the
stream the fame of surpassing beauty. Those natural charms await his admiration
higher up, between the towns of Coblenz and Bingen. There he will find all tliat
the poet promises : —

" A blending of all beauties ; streams and dells,
Fruit, foliage, crag, wood, corn-field, mountain, vine,
And chiftless castles breathing stern farewells
From gray but leafy walls, where Ruin greenly dwells.

" And tlieie they stand, as stands a lofty mind.

Worn, but unstooping to the baser crowd,

All tenantless, save to the crannying wind.

Or holding dark communion with the cloud.

There was a day when they were young and proud.

Banners on high, and battles pass'd below ;

But they who fought are in a bloody shroud.

And those which wav'd are shredless dust ere now,
And the bleak battlements shall bear no future blow.

" Beneath these battlements, within tliose walls,

Power dwelt amidst her passions ; in proud state,

Each robber chief upheld his armed halls.

Doing his evil will, nor less elate

Than mightier heroes of a longer date.

What want these outlaws conquerors should have?

But History's purchas'd jiage to call them great?

A wider space, an ornamented grave?
Their hopes were not less warm, their souls were full as brave.

THE BANKS OF THK RHINE.

" In their baronial feuds and single fields.
What deeds of prowess unrecorded died !
And Love, which lent a blazon to their shields,
With emblems well devis'd by amorous pride,
Through all the mail of iron hearts would glide ;
But still their flame was fierceness, and drew on
Keen contest and destruction near allied.
And many a tower for some fair mischief won,

Saw the discolour'd Rhine beneath its ruin run.

" But Thou, exulting and abounding river !
Making thy waves a blessing as they flow
Through banks whose beauty would endure for ever.
Could man but leave thy bright creation so.
Nor its fair promise from the surface mow
With the sharp scythe of conflict, — then to see
Thy valley of sweet waters, were to know
Earth pav'd like Heav'n; and to seem such to me.

Even now what wants thy stream? — that it should Lethe be.

" A thousand battles have assail'd thy banks,
But these and half their fame have pass'd away.
And Slaughter heap'd on high his weltering ranks :
Their very graves ore gone, and what are they ?
Thy tide wash'd down the blood of yesterday,
And all was stainless, and on thy clear stream
Glass'd with its dancing light the sunny ray ;
But o'er the blacken'd memory's blighting dream

Thy waves would vainly roll, all sweeping as they seem."

THE RHINE BOOK.

N the history of the Rhine, we have a history of Europe.
A boundary of the empire of Caesar, it afterwards
gave passage to the barbarian hordes who over-
threw Imperial Rome : Charlemagne made it the
outpost of his power ; anon the Church gained
strength in the cities on its banks, and then mo-
nasteries and feudal strongholds rose up quickly
after each other. Then was it visited by the
forms of the Middle Ages ; orders of chivalry
were established at Mayence ; and knights of the
Teutonic order, of Rhodes, and of the Temple, appeared upon
the scene. The minnesinger and the troubadour praise its
wines, tell of its contests, and celebrate its victories. The
I hills, the caves, the forests, the stream, and the solid rocks
themselves are tenanted by superstition, by Oreads, Mer-
maids, Gnomes, Black Huntsmen, and demons in all imaginable fantastic shapes.
Meantime the towns were growing under the influence of Trade — the grimy
power that destroyed the feudal system. Cannon were invented at Nuremburg ;
the reformed religion found an advocate at Constance in John Huss even before
Luther fulminated his wrath against the Scarlet Mistress of the Seven Hills :
printing was accomplished by Gutemburg at Mayence ; and now Steam tenants
its waters. Caesar, Attila, Clovis, Charlemagne, Frederick Barbarossa, Rodolph
of Hapsbourg, the Palatine Frederick the First, Gustavus Adolphus, and Napo-
leon have been victorious upon its banks. What more could fate do to give
the stream an almost immortality of fame ?

Rising in Switzerland, in the canton of the Grisons, by three small sources, it
gains its name of Rhine*, and a breadth of 230 feet, at Richenau, the point of
confluence. It passes through the liodensee ; but, before giving its tributary
waters to the beautiful Lake of Constance, forms the Falls of Schaufl'hausen.

* The Steam Navigation Companies on the Rhine appear determined, if possible, to equal the
fastest 'lliaines steamers in point of speed. A new iron steamer, named the f^lberfcldt, previous
to being placed in active service, made an experimental voyage from Diisseldorf and Cologne to
Mayence and back, and, to the surprise of every German, performed the journey from Cologne to
Mayence, against the strong stream, in 13 hours and 20 minutes, and from Mayence to Cologne
with the stream, rather under seven hours, inclusive of stoppages. To form a comparison of what
the Dusseldorf Company have accomplished, whose vessels are all propelled by English engines,
it is necessary to a<ld, that in 1837, previous to their formation, it was held as an extraordinary feat
to proceed by water in two days from Cologne to INIayence ; namely, the first day from Cologne to
Cobleiice in 14 iiours, and the second day from Coblence to Rlayence in 13 hours, making together
27 hours, now performed in half the time, and in one day.

THE COURSE OF THE RHINE,

I- TER traversing several of the cantons, it leaves Swit-
zerland at Basle, on its course through Germany and
Holland to the sea. Its chief tributaries are the
Neckar, Murg, Kinzig, Aar, IVTaine, Nahe, Lahn, Mo-
selle, Erft, Ruhr, Lippe. Its basin has a length of
180 leagues. The canal of the Rhine and the Rhone
unites these two rivers with the Saone ; whilst the Great Northern Canal unites
the Rhine with the Meuse and the Nethe, and thus with the Scheldt. Its waters
furnish capital salmon, which, when taken on their passage up the stream, are
called Lacfise ; when caught in autumn, on their way down the river to the sea,
are known as salmon. It affords also sturgeon, pike, carp, and lampreys. Its
enormous rafts of timber have often been described, and should be seen to be
appreciated. They often carry half a village of peoj^le, and are sold for many

Tllli KIIIXK BOOK.

thousands of pounds. In summer, when the Tourist visits the river, its course
is comparatively calm and orderly : it is only in spring, when the snows melt
rapidly in vSwitzerland, tliat "Father Rhine"' is to be beheld in his might; for
then the waters often rise a dozen feet above their common level. The current is
thus greatly increased beyond its ordinary i-ate of three and a half miles an hour.
Its depth from Basle to Strasbourg averages ten to twelve feet ; at Maj'ence,
twenty-four feet ; at Dusseldorf, fifty feet.

x . L-

THE WINES OF TUE IIHINE.

GERMAN C09TDMES.

THE WINES OF THE RHINE.

T would be difficult to say whether the wines or the
scenery of the Rhine has received most praise.
Songs are sung, and books written, and legends
told in honour of both ; and certainly both deserve
all that can be expressed in their favour. The
true German is not only eloquent when speaking
of the quality of the Rhine wines ; he claims for
them also the honours of antiquity. One is content
to date their history as late as the days of Probus ;
but others declare that Bacchus only could be the
parent of such admirable liquor, and point to
Bacharach as the resting-place of the deity when he came to taste the Rhine
grapes, and set an example to all future tipplers. Cyrus Redding, the historian
of the Grape, in the chapters of his book in which he dilates upon the Wines
of Germany, becomes almost as enthusiastic as a Burschen ; and as he must
be regarded as the best authority upon the subject, it will be well here to quote
what he says.

90 THE RHINE BOOK.

" Had the etymology been treated metaphorically, to describe the vine country
on the Rhine, and some of its tributary rivers, it would not have been out of
place to call it the countiy of Bacchus. The Germans boast of four other places
sacred to Bacchus : Steegbach, situated on a hillock, they call the ladder of Bac-
chus ; Diebach, the finger (digitus) ; Handbach, or INIanersbach, the hand ; and
Lorch, or Laurea, the bay or laurel. Formerly it was impossible to enter a
German house without being offered 'large jacks of wine,' so attached were they
to the rites of their purple deity. The banks of these rivers are covered with
vineyards. The Rhine, Moselle, Neckar, and Mayn are gardens of the vine. Nor
have the Germans been content with cultivating the banks of rivers alone, but
the higher lands are planted with the greatest success. It matters very little
whether the territory of Treves pom'ed out its abundance in the time of the
Romans or of Charlemagne; the Germans have enjoyed it since the year 400 ;
and the Frenchman who said that the Germans had found out the perpetual
motion in their cups, or tall old wine glasses, was not far from the truth. The
German loves his glass ; and while he cultivates his vines, let the good burgher
of Treves swallow his Augenscheimer, his Thiergartner, Schamet, and Pitcher,
provided he will allow the foreigner to share a little of the superfluity of his
golden vintage. From Bonn to Coblentz, and from the latter city to Mayence,
the country is covered with vineyards. The Johannisberger of 'father' Rhine,
tlie Gruenhaeuser or the Braunebei'ger of the Moselle, and the Hockheimer of
the Mayn, each distinguish and hallow their respective rivers in the eyes of the
connoisseur in wine.

" Whoever has visited the noble Rhine must have felt sensible of the beauty of
its vineyards, covering steep and shore, interlaced with the most romantic ruins,
towns ancient and venerable, smiling villages, and the rapid broad German river,
reflecting the rich scenery on its banks. From Mentz even to Bonn the vineyards
of the Rhine are observed to greater advantage than any similar cidtivation in
other countries : Erbach, enthroned on its vines ; the Rheingau, its Johannisberg
on a crescent hill of red soil, adorned with cheering vegetation ; IMittelheim,
Geisenheim, and Rlidsheim with its strong, fine-bodied wine, the grapes from
which bask on their promontory of rock, in the summer sun, and imbibe its gene-
rous heat from dawn to setting ; then again, on the other side, Bingen, delightful,
sober, majestic, with its terraces of vines, topped by the chateau of Klopp. The
river and its riches, the corn and fruit which the vicinity produces, all remind the
stranger of a second Canaan. The Bingerloch, the ruins, and the never-failing
vines scattered among them, like verdant youth revelling amid age and decay,
give a picture nowhere else exhibited, uniting to the joyousness of wine the
sober tinge of meditative feeling. The hills back the picture, covered with feudal
relics or monastic remains, below Asmannhilusen to Lorch, mingled with the

THE WINES OF THE RHINE. 91

purple gi-ape. Bacharach is near, the wine of which — probably the fancy of the
drinkers having changed, is now pronounced second-rate in quality, though, not
long ago, even the French celebi*ated it in their Bacchanalian songs — is still very
good, fashion may say what it chooses. Landscapes of greater beauty, joined to
the luxuriance of fruitful vine culture, can nowhere be seen ; perhaps there is
something to be added, for the alliance of wine, and its agreeable qualities, with
the noble scenery of the river. The mind will have its associations upon all sub-
jects.

" To the north of Coblentz the Avines are of little comparative note, though
Bodendorf, near Bonn, has been said to produce a Rhenish wine of the second
growth, thus far to the north. Coblentz is about the latitude of Plymouth, while
Mayence itself is neai-ly on the same parallel with the Lizard in Cornwall. Either
on the Rhine, or on its tributary rivers between these two places, all the most cele-
brated wines of Germany are grown. None of the better wines of France are
grown so far to the north. It is at Coblentz that the soil first becomes particu-
larly well adapted for the cultivation of the vine. The right bank descending is
most noted for its wines ; but the vineyards, in many parts, cover both banks."

The soil has, of course, much influence upon the quality of the wine ; and
the banks of the Rhine are remarkable for the great variety of rocks upon its
banks, and consequently for the variety of soils, made up partly by the decom-
position of those rocks, and partly by the deposits from streams, and by artificial
manures provided by the cultivator. " Granite decomposed," says Cyrus Redding,
" and quartz in favourable sites, offer good vine land, and so does sienite. Clay-
slate, mingled with quartz, is observed to be highly favourable with basalt.
Where marl, mingled with pebbles, occurs, the vines succeed best ; nearly the
same character, but, if any thing, still a better, may be given to dolenite. Varie-
gated sandstone in decomposition does not do well for the vines in dry seasons,
though light in its nature ; when mingled with clay, or other earths, its produce
is tolerable, but it gives no remarkable wine. Shell marl, where the calcareous
properties are most prevalent, when mixed with the clay soil, will grow tolerable
good vines, and the same when they are reai-ed upon a coarse limestone well
worked. Kiffer produces only weak wine. Schistous marl, where it occurs
decomposed, yields a fertile soil for the vine. When mingled with round stones
or sand it is very favourable, but no remarkable wine is produced from it. It is
strange that the Germans dress their vines Avith strong manures, which the French
and Portuguese pronounce to be injurious."

The botanical part of the question comes next ; and we leani that " The grapes
wdiich are preferred for general cultivation are the riessling, a small white species,
harsh in taste, but in hot seasons furnishing a remarkably excellent wine, having
a fine bouquet. The kleinhcrger, a productive species, which ripens easily, and

THE RHINE BOOK.

a small Orleans variety. Tlie produce of all the vineyards it is impossible to
ascertain. The circle of Coblentz contains nearly seventeen thousand Prussian
acres, each of which is calculated to yield wine of about fifteen pounds sterling
annually in value. The circle of Treves, containing twenty-three hundred acres,
gives an annual product of thirty-nine pounds sterling each acre. In "Wirtemberg,
the product of the kingdom, or of 61,514 acres, has been valued at 3,990,831
florins. The true Hockheimer is groAvn in a little spot of about eight acres to the
eastward of Mentz, between that place and F'rankfort. Each acre contains four
thousand plants. The produce, in a tolerable year, is twelve large casks, which
sell for about one hundi-ed and fifty pounds each. Worms was formerly reported
to grow a hundred and fifty fudders within the territories of the city, ' sweeter
than virgin's milk (liebfrauen milch).' "

The glorious season of fruition — the Vintage — is the time for the visit of
a wine-lover to the Rhine. " The vintage," continues our Bacchanalian authority,
" does not take place until the grapes are perfectly mature ; they are then carefully
gathered, the bad fruit picked out, and, with the stalks, put aside. The wine of
the pressings is separated, most vom ersten drucJt, vom nackdruck. The more
celebrated of these wines are all fermented in casks ; and then, after being repeat-
edly racked, suffered to remain for years in large fudders * to acquire perfection
by time. These huge casks contain each about three hundred and fifty tuns. The
wines mellow best in large vessels ; hence the celebrated Heidelberg tun, thirty-
one feet long by twenty-one high, and holding one hundred and fifty fudders, or
six hundred hogsheads; the second of these was built at Heidelberg in 1663.
That which preceded it lield but one hundred and thirty-two fudders. This tun
is decorated with all kinds of fantastical ornaments. Tiibingen, Griiuingen, and
Konigstein (the last 3709 hogsheads), could all boast of their enormous tuns, in
which the white wines of the country were thought to mellow better than in casks
of less dimensions. These tuns were once kept carefully filled. The Germans
always had the reputation of being good drinkers, and of taking care of the ' liquor
they loved.' Misson says, in his Travels, that he formerly saw at Nuremberg the
public cellar, two hundred and fifty paces long, and containing twenty thousand
ahms of wine."

And now for the peculiarities of the Rhine tvines. " The German are a
distinct class in character from all other wines. They are generous, dry, finely
flavoured, and endure age beyond example. They average about 12"08 per cent,
of alcohol. They have been supposed to turn acid sooner than other wines, though
the reverse is a remarkable fact. On this subject a recent writer observes, Avitii
respect to Moselle — and the same will hold good with other wines of IJhenish

* A common fuder, or luckier, contains only two hundred and fifty gallons.

THE WINES OF THE RHINE. _ 93

character — that 'the country which borders on the Moselle produces abundance
of grapes, and some of the wines have an agreeable flavour, especially the vintage
of Brauneberg. This highly-flavoured wine has, within the last seven years,
become a fashionable beverage at the first tables in London, and when iced in
summer, nothing can be more grateful. Some of it has the flavour of the Fron-
tignan grape, without its sweetness. This wine has a singular quality ; it is difli-
cult to make it into vinegar. The author accidentally discovered this property
by putting a few bottles into a greenhouse, and afterwards into his cellar, for the
purpose of using it as vinegar ; but, the following spring, he was surprised to find
that no acetous fermentation had taken place. It has been generally supposed in
England, that the wines of the Rhine and Moselle are more acid than the white
wines of France ; but, if the above experiment may be any criterion of the quali-
ties of the former, it would prove that they are less acid than Sauterne, Barsac,
and the Graves ; for it is well known that it is necessary to sulphur the casks of
these wines to prevent the acetous fermentation taking place. Acids are supposed
to generate gout, and, in England, Rhine wines are on this account forbidden to
gouty subjects ; yet the gout is a disease rarely known on the banks of the Rhine,
where hardly any other wine is drank.' " And be it never forgotten, that the
German wines are free from that saturation of brandy which is the high and
mighty fault, as it must ever be a grand dietetic objection, to the wines of
France.

The names and birth-places of the different German 2ci?ies is interesting.
" The ordinary wines are not worthy of note. The Liebfrauenmilch, already men-
tioned, is a well-bodied wine, groAvn at Worms, and generally fetches a good price.
The same may be said of the wines of Koesterick, near Mayence ; and those from
Mount Scharlachberg are equally full-bodied and well-flavoured. Nierstein,
Oppenheim, Laubenheim, and Gaubischeim are considered to yield first growths,
but that of Deidesheim is held to be the best ; the last of 1 825 sells for twelve
pounds sterling the ahm, of thirty gallons, in the present year. The prices vary
much, and depend in a great degree upon the age of the wine. New wine may
be had from fifteen-pence the niaas * to four and seven-pence. Very aged wine
from eight to ten up to eighteen shillings the bottle.

" The river Mayn runs up to Frankfort close to Mayence ; and on its banks the
little town of Hockheim, once the property of General Kellerman, stands upon an
elevated spot of ground, in the full blaze of the sun. From Hockheim is derived
the name of Hock, too generally applied in England to all German wines. No
trees are seen to obstruct the genial fire from the sky, which the Germans deem
so needful to render their vintages propitious. The town stands in the midst of

* A little more than two quarts.

94 THE RHINE BOOK.

vineyartl.s. That wliicli produces the Hockheimer of the first growth is about
eight acres in extent, and situated on a spot well sheltered from the nortli winds,
on a little hill behind the deanery. The wine of 1766 and 1775 now fetches
forty-two and fifty pounds the ahm. The other growths of this wine come from
the surrounding vineyards. The whole eastern bank of the Rhine to Lorich,
called the Klieingau, has been remarkable centuries past for its wines. It was
once the jiroperty of the Church. The entire district is one delicious vine-garden.
In this favoured spot grows the castle, or Schloss-Johannisberger, once the
property of the Church, and also of the Prince of Orange. , Johannisberg is a
town, with its castle (schloss), on the right bank of the Rhine below Mentz.
The Johannisbei-ger takes the lead in the wines of the Rhine. The vines are
grown over the vaults of the castle, and were very near being destroyed by
General Hoche. The quantity is not large. The price of the vintage of 1811 is
about thirty-six pounds the ahm, of thirty gallons. That of 1779 sells for
seventy-five in the present year. The vineyard is now the pi'ojierty of Prince
Metternich. The other growths near the same vineyard are excellent. The
Johannisberger of Messieurs Mumm and Giesler of Cologne and Johannisberg,
their own growth of 1822, brings, in 1833, from twenty-five to sixty pounds the
ahm.

"Riidesheim produces wines of the first Rhine growths; the ahm of 1811 is
fifty-five pounds ; but the Steinbergcr, belonging to the Duke of Nassau, takes
rank after the Schloss-Johannisberger among these -wines. It has the greatest
strength, and yet is one of the most delicate, and even sweetly flavoured. That
called the ' Cabinet,' from the vintage of 1811, brings seventy pounds sterling
the ahm at present, or nearly eleven shillings the bottle. The quantity made
is small, of the first growth. Graefenberg, whicli Avas once the property of
the Church, produces very choice wine, which carries a price equal to the
Riidesheim.

"Marcobrunner is an excellent wine, of a fine flavour, especially when the
vintage has taken place in a warm year. The vineyards of Roth and Konigsbach
grow excellent wines. The wine of Bacharach was formerly celebrated, as before
mentioned, but time produces revolutions in the history of wines, as well as in
that of empires. Notwithstanding the quality of endurance many of the second-
rate growths possess, and a freedom from acidity ecpial to those which hold the
first place, they are by no means so well known as they t)ught to be. The oldest
wine, which is commonly offered to the purchaser, is tliat of 1748, a year when
tlie season was exceedingly ])ropitious to the vintage. Older wines may be met
with, but less freipiently. The excellence of the wine in any ])articular year
always depends more upon the warmth of the season than upon any other cause,
and the high price of the wine in corresponding years rates accordingly. The

THE WINES OF THE RHINE. 95

Germans say, the wines of the best body are made on the higher lands, and the
worst on the lower ; the last i-equiring the longest keeping, to render them mellow
for drinking. The wines of 1783 bear a very high character. There is something
nnaccountable in the extraordinary durability of wines grown so far to the North,
when the slightest increase of warmth in a season causes such a difference in the
quality of the wine. While strong southern wines suffer from age after a certain
period of years in bottle, and begin to deteriorate sensibly, the Rhine wines
seem possessed of inextinguishable vitality, and set the greater part of rivalry in
keeping at defiance. It is generally found that wines with the lesser proportion
of alcohol change sooner than those which are strong. The Rhenish wines
averaging so little in spirit will endure longer, and continue to improve by age
as much as the more potent wines of the South, with double their alcoholic
strength. The best vintages were 1748, 1766, 1779, 1783, 1800, 1802, and 1811.
The Steinwein of 1748, brought in 1832 seventy pounds the ahm. This may
serve to show how much these wines gain by age.

" On the whole the wines of Bischeim, Asmannhaiisen, and Laubenheim, are
very pleasant wines ; those of the most strength are Marcobrunner, Rlidesheimer,
and Niersteiner, while those of Johannisberg, Geissenheim, and Hockheim, give
the most perfect^delicacy and aroma. The Germans themselves say, ' Rhein-ivein,
fein wein ; Neckerioein, lecher xoein ; Franken-wein, tranken ivein ; Mosel-tcein,
nnnosel toein,' ' Rhine wine is good ; Neckar pleasant ; Frankfort bad ; Moselle

innocent.'

"The red wines of the Rhine are not of extraordinary quality. The Asmanns-
haiiser is the best, and resembles some of the growths of France. Near Lintz, at
Neuwied, a good wine, called Blischert, is made. Keinigsbach, on the left bank
of the Rhine, Altenahr, Rech, and Kesseling, yield ordinary red growths.

" The Moselle wines are secondary to those of the Rhine and Mayn. The most
celebrated is the Brauneberger. The varieties grown near Treves are numerous.
A Dutch merchant is said to have paid the Abbey of Maximinus for a variety
called Gruenhaiiser, in 1793, no less than eleven hundi-ed and forty-four florins
for two hundred and ninety English gallons in the vat. This wine was formerly
styled the ' Nectar of the Moselle.' It made men cheerful when drank in a
quantity, and did good the next day, leaving the bosom and head without disorder,
— such is a German's character of it, that of the jurist Hontheim. These wines
are light, with a good flavour, and of late have become favourites in England.
They will not keep so long as the Rhine wines, but they are abundant and
wholesome. Near Treves are grown the wines of Brauneberg, "Wehlen, Graach,
Zeltingen, and Piesport. The wines of Riusport and Becherbach are considered
of secondary rank. The wines of Cusel and Yaldrach, near Treves, are thought
to be possessed of diuretic properties, and even to cure the gravel. In about five

TnE RHINE BOOK.

years these wines reach the utmost point of perfection for drinking. They will
not keep more than ten or twelve in prime condition.

" The wines called ' wines of the Ahr' resemble those of the Moselle, except
that they will keep longer.

"The ' wines of the Neckar' are made from the best French, Hungarian, and
even Cyprus vines. The most celebrated are those of Bessingheim. They are
of a light red colour, not deep, and of tolerable flavour and bouquet.

"Wisbaden grows some good wines at Schierstein, and Epstein, near Frankfort.
The best wines of Baden are produced in the seigniory of Badenweiler, near
Fribourg. At Heidelberg, the great tun used to be filled with the wine of that
neighbourhood, boasted to be a hundred and twenty years old, but it gave the
wine no advantage over other Neckar growths. Some good wines are produced
near Baden. The red wines of "Wangen are much esteemed in the country of
Bavaria, but they are very ordinary. Wurtzberg grows the Stein and Liesten
wines. The first is produced upon a mountain so called, sold very dear, and
called ' wine of the Holy Spirit ' by the Hospital of Wurtzberg, to Avliora it
belongs. The Liesten wines are produced upon Mount St. Nicolas. Straw wines
are made in Franconia. A vin de liqueur, called Calmus, like the sweet wines
of Hungary, is made in the territory of Frankfort, at Aschaffenbourg. The best
vineyards are those of Bischofsheim. Some wines are made in Saxony, but they
are of little worth. Meissen, near Dresden, and Guben, produce the best.
Naumberg makes some small wines, like the inferior Burgundies." — [_A History
a7id Description of Modern Wines. By Cyrtis Redding. '\

OltH&MRKTICD WINB OOP ANI> DlSn FROM AN
nNORATINO BY HANS DOnOUAIR, A. D. 1517.

THE ARCHITECT OF COLOGNE.

COi-O'jN Jl

THE LEGENDS OF COLOGNE —THE CARNIVAL.

o Stranger ever enters Cologne without going to see the Cathedral, ^ind
nobody ever looks upon that fragment of the mightiest Gothic design
in Christendom without doing three things — without regretting that
it never was completed, without asking who was the architect, or
without listening to the Legend of the Builder.

Mighty was the Archbishop Conrad de Hochsteden, for he was lord over the
chief city of the Rhine — the city of Cologne : but his thoughts were troubled, and
his heart was heavy, for though his churches were rich beyond compare in relics,
yet other towns not half so large or powerful as his had cathedrals whose fame
extended over Europe, and whose beauty brought pilgrims to their shrine, profit to
the ecclesiastics, and business to the townspeople. After many sleepless nights,
therefore, he determined to add to his city the only thing wanting to complete it,
and sending for the most famous architect of the time, he commissioned him to
complete the plan for a Cathedral of Cologne.

Now the architect was a clever man, but he was more vain than clever. He
had a dreamy notion of magnificence, which he desired to achieve without a clear

98 THE RHINE BOOK.

conception of liow he was to do it, or without tlic will to make the necessary
liacrifices of labour, care, and perseverance. He received the commission with
great gladness, and gloated for some days upon the fame which would be his as
the builder of the structure which the Archbishop desired ; but after this vision
of glory, when he took his crayons to sketch out the design, he was thrown into
the deepest despondency. He drew and drew, and added, and erased, and cor-
rected, and began again, but still did not succeed. Not a plan could he complete.
Some were too mean, others too extravagant, and others, when done and examined,
were found to be good, but not original. Efforts of memory instead of imagina-
tion, their points of excellence were discovered to be copies — a tower from one, a
spire from another, an aisle from a third, and an altar from a fourth, and one
after another they were cast aside as imperfect and useless, until the draughtsman,
more than half crazy, felt inclined to end his troubles and perplexities by a
plunge into the Rhine.

In this mood of more than half despair he wandered down to the river's edge,
and sitting himself upon a stone began to draw in the sand with a measuring-rod,
which served as a walking-stick, the outlines of various parts of a church.
Ground-plans, towers, finials, brackets, windows, columns, appeared one after
another, traced by the point of his wand, but all, one after another, were erased as
unequal and insufficient for the purpose, and unworthy to form a part of the
design for a Cathedral of Cologne. Turning round, the architect was aware that
another person was beside him, and with surprise the disappointed draughts-
man saw that the stranger was also busily inventing a design. Eajjidly on the
sand he sketched tlie details of a most magnificent building, its towers rising
to the clouds, its long aisles and lofty choir stretching away before the eye
of the gazer until he mentally confessed it was indeed a temple worthy of the
Most High. The windows were enriched by tracery, such as artist never had
before conceived, and the lofty columns reared their tall length towards a roof
which seemed to claim kindred with the clouds, and to equal the tirmament
in expanse and beauty. But each line of this long-sought plan vanished the
moment it was seen, and with a complete conviction of its excellence, when it was
gone not a portion of it could the architect remember.

" Your sketch is excellent," said lie to the unknown : " it is what I have thought
and dreamed of — what I have sought for and wislied for, and have not been able
to find. Give it to me on paper, and I will pay you twenty gold pieces."

" Twenty pieces ! ha! ha! twenty gold pieces! " laughed the stranger. "Look
here!" and from a doublet that did not seem big enough to hold half the money,
•he drew forth a purse that certainly hold a thousand.

The night liad closed in, and the architect was desperate. " If money cannot
tempt you, fear shall force you ;" and, springing towards the stranger, he plucked

THE ARCHITKCT OF COLOGNK. ^0

a dagger from his girdle, and held its point close to the breast of the mysterious
draughtsman, in the attitude to strike. In a moment his wrists were pinioned
as with the grasp of a vice, and squeezed until he dropped his weapon, and
shrieked in agony. Falling in the sands, he writhed like an eel upon the
fisherman's hook ; but plunged and struggled in vain. When nearly fainting, he
felt himself thrown helpless upon the very brink of the stream.

" There ! revive, and be reasonable. Leai-n that gold and steel have no power
over me. You want my cathedral, for it would bring you honour, fame, and
profit ; and you can have it if you choose."

"How? — tell me how?"

" By signing this parchment with your blood."

" Avaunt, fiend ! " shrieked the architect ; " in the name of tlie Saviour I bid
thee begone." And so saying, he made the sign of the Cross ; and the Evil One
(for it was he) was forced to vanish before the holy symbol. He made time, how-
ever, to mutter, " You'll come for the plan at midnight to-morrow."

The artist staggered home, half dead with contending passions ; and muttering,
" Sell my soul," " to-morrow at midnight," " honour and fame," and other words
which told the inward struggle going forward in his soul. When he i-eached his
lodgings, he met the only servant he had, going out wrapped in her cloak.

" And where are you going so late?" said her surprised mastei*.

" To a mass for a soul in purgatory," was the reply.

" Oh, horror ! horror ! no mass will avail me. To everlasting torments shall I
be doomed ;" and, hurrying to his room, he cast himself down in tears of remorse,
irresolution, and despair. In this state his old housekeeper discovered him, on
her return from her holy errand ; and, her soul being full of charity and kindly
religion, she begged to know what had caused such grief; and spoke of patience
in suffering, and pardon by repentance. Her words fell upon the disordered ear
of the architect with a heavenly comfort ; and he told her what had passed.

"Mercy me!" was her exclamation, "Tempted by the fiend himself! — so
strongly, too ! " and so saying, she left the chamber without another word, and
hurried off to her confessor.

Now the confessor of Dame Elfrida was the friend of the abbot, and the abbot
was the constant counsellor of the archbishop, and so soon as the housekeeper
spoke of the wonderful plan, he told her he would soon see her master, and went
at once to his superior. This dignitary immediately pictured to himself the
hosts of pilgrims that would seek a cathedral built with skill from such wonderful
sketches, and (hoping himself one day to be archbishop) he hurried off to the
bewildered architect.

He found him still in bed, and listened with surprise to the glowing account of
the demon's plan.

100

THE UHINE BOOK.

"And would it be equal to all this? "

" It would."

"Could you build it?"

" I could."

"Would not pilgrims come to worship in such a cathedral ?"

"By thousands."

" Listen, my sou ! Go at midnight to the appointed spot ; take this I'elic
with you ; " and so saying the abbot gave him a holy morsel of one of the
Eleven Thousand A^'irgins. " Agree to the terms for the design you have so long
desired, and when you have got it, and the Evil One presents the parchment for
your signature, show this saci-ed bone."

After long pondering, the priest's advice was taken ; and in the gloom of night
the architect was seen tremblingly hurrying to the place of meeting. True to his
time, the fiend was there, and with a smile complimented the artist on his punctu-
ality. Drawing from his doublet two parchments, he opened one on which was
traced the outlines of the cathedral, and then another written in some mysterious
character, and having a yellow brimstony space left for a signature.

" Let me examine what I am to pay so dearly for."

" Most certainly," said the demon with a smile, and a bow that would bave
done honour to the court of the Emperor.

Pressing it with one hand to his breast, the architect with the other held up
the holy thumb-bone, and exclaimed, " Avaunt, tiend I In the name of the
Father, and the Son, and the Holy Virgins of Cologne, I bid thee, Satan, at
defiance ; " and he described the sign of the Cross directly against the Devil's
face.

In an instant the smile and the graceful civility were gone. With a hideous grin
he approached the sacred miracle as though he would have strangled the possessor ;
and yelling with a sound that woke half the sleepers in Cologne, he skipped
round and round the artist. Still, however, the plan was held tightly with one
hand, and the relic held forward like a swordsman's rapier with the other. As
the fiend turned, so turned the architect ; until, bethinking himself that another
prayer Avould help him, he called loudly on St. Ursula. The demon could stand
the fight no longer ; the chief of the Eleven Thousand Virgins was too much
for him.

" None but a Confessor could have told you how to cheat me," he shrieked in
a most cynical voice : " but I will be revenged. You have a more wonderful
and perfect design than ever entered the brain of man. You want fame — the
priest wants a chui-ch and pilgrims. Listen ! That catukuual shall ni:vek

BK FINISHED, AND YOUU NAME SHAI.L BE FORGOTTEN ! "

As the dreadful words broke ujion his ear the cloak of the Tempter streUlicd

THE PPAFFEN TIIOR. ,""• ■^ o t^ >' \ I'l '" ■ 110,1,

out into huge black wings, which were flapped over the spot like two dark
thunder-clouds, and with such violence that the winds were raised from their
slumber, and a storm rose upon the waters of the Rhine. Hurrying homewards,
the relic raised at arm's length over his head, he reached the abbot's house in
safety. But the ominous sentence still rang in his ears — unfinished and

UNICNOWN.

Days, months, years, passed by, and the cathedral, commenced with vigour, was
growing into form. The architect had long before determined that an inscription
should be engraved upon a plate of brass shaped like a cross, and be fastened
upon the front of the first tower that reached a good elevation. His vanity
already anticipated a triumph over the Fiend whom he had defrauded. He was
author of a building which the Avorld could not equal, and in the pride of his
heart defied all evil chances to deprive him of fame. Going to the top of the build-
ing to see where his name should be placed, he looked over the edge of the
building, to decide if it was lofty enough to deserve the honour of the inscription,
when the workmen were aware of a black cloud which suddenly enveloped them,
and burst in thunder and hail. Looking round when the cloud passed away, i/ieir
master was gone ! and one of them declared, that amidst the noise of the explosion
he heard a wail of agony which seemed to say " unfinished and forgotten."

When they descended the tower the body of the architect lay crushed upon the
pavement. The Traveller beholds the building as it Avas on the morning when he
fell there, and thousands have since then sought in vain to learn the name of The
Architect of Cologne.

^j^^HEN the Archbishop Conrad de Hochsteden, the founder of the Cathe-
dral, had been gathered to his fathers, Engelbrecht of Falkenbourg
reigned over Cologne in his stead ; and a fearful tyrant he became.
As was the case with the spiritual lords who ruled over Liege, the
mitre of the Archbishop became a rod of iron to the citizens, until at length they
were goaded to open rebellion. In their contests for liberty they Avere led by
Hermann Grynn, a townsman who had put aside the peaceful avocations of trade
to do battle in the good cause of his native city, and of the privileges which his
fathers had purchased, not only with their gold, but with their blood.

After numerous contests between the burghers and their oppressors, the cause of
the many was triumphant, and the Archbishop was glad to agree to terms which
he before spurned. But the truce he sought was hollow and unfaithful, and he

10?

THK RniNE BOOK.

said openly that if Hermann Grynn were removed, he could then reclaim with
safety the privileges he had surrendered to the townsmen.

This treacherous speech was greedily drunk up l^y two priests, who deter-
mined to work their own welfare by the downfal of the citizen patriot. INIaking
acquaintance with Hermann, whose honest nature suspected no treachery, they
wormed themselves into his confidence, and sought an oppoi'tunity of inviting him
to the Cathedral, to see its hidden beauties and great store of riches. Leading him
from chapel to cloister, and through chamber after chamber, they came at length
to a door, which they said contained the richest sight of all ; and one of them,
unlocking the door, invited the citizen to enter. No sooner had he crossed the
threshold than the thick portal was closed suddenly upon him, and at the same
moment he heard the roar of some wild animal, and saw fixed upon him two fierce
eye-balls glowing with hunger and savage rage.

Hermann Grynn was a man for emergencies. Rapidly twisting his cloak
round liis left arm, and drawing his short sword, he prepared for the attack ;
nor had he long to wait. With a growl of triumph a huge animal sprang upon
him with open jaws; but with admirable coolness the hero received his assailant
upon the clothed arm, and whilst the brute ground its teeth into the cloak, he
thrust his sword into its heart. Searching round the chamber he was aware of a
window concealed by a sliutter, and opening this he looked forth into the streets,
where a great crowd was collected around a priest, who went along telling some
tale which seemed to move the people to deep grief. As the tlirong drew nearer
he listened eagerly, and heard with surprise " how the good burgess Hermann
Grynn, the friend of the people, and the well beloved ally of the Church, had
without advice sought a chamber where a lion was in durance, and had fallen a
sacrifice to his unhappy curiosity." Burning Avith rage and a determination to
expose the treachery of the priests, he Avaitod till the crowd came beneath the
window from which he looked; and then, dashing the glass into a thousand pieces,
he attracted attention to the spot, and leaning half out of the opening, displayed
his well-known cap in one haiid, and his bloody sword in the other. He was
almost too high to be heard, but the faint echo of his war-cry was enough to con-
vince the people of his identity, and with one voice they sliouted " To the rescue !"
Forcing their way into the Cathedral, they quickly released their leader, and
learning from him the story of cruel treachery, the two priests were ferreted from
their hiding-places, and hanged by the neck in the room over the body of the dead
lion. To this day the portal they slammed on Hermann Grynn is known as the
rfdjfcti Thar — tlie Priest's door — whilst over the gate of tlie venerable town-
hall of Cologne, TiiK Tkavklleu may yet see, graven in stone, the figlit of the
citizen-patriot with the hungry lion of the Cathedral.

ST. URSULA AND THE ELEVEN THOUSAND VmGlNS.

103

Such are two of the traditions of the Cathedral ; but that buihiinnj has not the
monopoly of such tales, for scarcely a church in Cologne but has its my.-tery, its
marvellous saintly story, or its legend. One of these fragments of romance that
have lived through more than a thousand years has for its heroine an English
Royal lady.

^t. Ursula mti tf)c CBIcben ^jbousanti Firgins.

UST two centuries after the birth of Christ, Vionest was king
of Britain. Happy in his realm, his subjects were prosper-
ous and contented, but care was in the heai't of the monarch,
for he was childless. At length his consort Daria bore
him a daughter, who as she grew up in years increased in
holiness, until all men regarded her as a saint, and she, de-
voting herself to a religious life, refused all offers of marriage,
to the great grief of her parents, who were again troubled
by the thought that their dynasty would fail for want of an
heir. Charmed with the rumour of her virtues, a German prince, Agrippus,
asked her as a wife for his son, but the suit was declined by the maiden until
an angel appeared to her in a dream, and said that the nuptials ought to
take place. In obedience to this heavenly mentor, St. Ursula no longer urged
her former scruples, and her father hastened to make preparations of suitable mag-
nificence for her departure to the ^Rhine, on whose banks her future home was
to be. Eleven thousand virgins were selected from the noblest families of Britain
to accompany their princess, who, marshalling them on the sea-shoi"e, bade them
sing a hymn to the Most High, and dismiss all fears of the ocean, for she had been
gifted with a divine knowledge of navigation, and would guide them safely on
their way. Accordingly St. Ursula dismissed all the seamen, and standing on
the deck of the principal vessel, she gave orders to her Eleven Thousand Maiden
Followers, who, under the influence of inspiration, flitted over the ships dressed
in virgin white, now tending the sails, noAV fixing the ropes, now guiding the helm,
imtil they reached the mouth of the Rhine, up which they sailed in saintly procession
to Cologne. Here they were received with great honours by the Roman Governor
of the place ; but soon they left the city, to ascend the stream to Basle on their
way to Rome, to Avhich holy city St. Ursula had determined upon making a pil-
grimage. Wherever on their journey they met the ofiicers of state they were
received as befitted their heavenly mission, and from Basle were accompanied by
Pantulus, who was afterwards canonised, and whose portrait is to be seen in the
church of St. Ursula. Once at Rome the Pope himself, Cyi'iacus, was so stricken

104 Tin: RIIINK BOOK.

by their devoted piety, tlmt, after praying with them at the tombs of the apostles,
he determined on abdicating tlie pontifical oflice, to accompany them on their return
down tlie Kliine to Cologne.

At Mayence they were joined by Prince Coman, the son of Agrippus, who for
love of his betrothed at once forsook the errors of the pagan faith and was
baptized. The Eleven Thousand Virgins with their sainted leader, her husband,
and Pope Cyriacus, passed rapidly to Cologne, where, however, they were not
long destined to live in peace. A horde of barbarians from the North invaded
the place, and having gained possession of the city, they slew with horrible tortures i
the vii-gin retinue of St. Ursula, the venerable Pope, the saint herself, and her
spouse Coman. Some were nailed living to the cross ; some were burned ; others
stoned ; but the most refined cruelties were reserved for the most distinguished
victims. Look on the walls of the Church of St. Ursula, and you will behold the
sufferings of the young martyr and of her youthful husband. Her chapel yet
contains her effigy with a dove at her feet — fit emblem of her purity and loving
faith and kindness ; whilst the devout may, in the same church, behold the
religiously- preserved bones of the Eleven Thousand Virgins.

^c^^^fe OLOGNE has much to boast of besides its legends.

The skulls of the Three Kings still grin from under their
crowns in the Cathedral, as they did when Frederick Barbarossa
stormed Milan and brought these relics of the Three Magi to
this city. Before the time of the French Revolution, these
ancient skulls were siu'rounded by more gold and precious
stones than the head of any living king in Christendom ; but during those
troublous days the riches faded rapidly away. At present the jewels of their
shrine are valued at six millloiis of francs ! The Cathedral also holds under its
pavement tlie heart of Maria de Medicis, who in her fallen fortunes sought a
refuge in Cologne, and there died in the house (10. Sternen Gasse) where Kubens
was born. An ancient painting is also pointed out as the picture of the building,
the Domhild. Its age rather than its beauty forms its great claim to notice. It
displays the patron saints of Cologne: — the Three Magi Kings adoring the
Saviour; St. Ursula and her Virgin Followers; and St. Gereon.

In the church of St, Peter is a picture presented to it by Rubens himself,
in memory of the fact that at its altar he was baptized. The subject is the Cruci-
fixion of the Patron Saint of the Church, and it attracted the criticism of Sir
Joshua Reynolds, who said: — "It was painted a little time before Rubens's death.
The body and head of the Saint are the only good parts in this picture, which is
finely (•()li)iir('<l, and well drawn; but the figure bends too suddenly from the

THE CHURCHES OF COLOGNE.

105

THE BIRTH-PI.ACE OF RCTBENS.

thighs, which are ill drawn, or rather in a
bad taste of drawing ; as is likewise his
arm, which has a short interrupted outline.
The action of the malefactors has not that
energy Avhich he usually gave to his figures.
Rubens, in his letters to Gildorp, expresses
his own approbation of this picture, which
he says was the best he ever painted; he
likewise expresses his content and happi-
ness in the subject, as being picturesque ;
this is likewise natural to such a mind
as that of Rubens, who was perhaps too
much looking about him for the picturesque,
or something uncommon. A man with his
head downwards is certainly a more ex-
traordinary object than in its natural place. Many parts of this pictui-e are so
feebly drawn, and with so tame a pencil, that I cannot help suspecting that
Rubens died before he had completed it, and that it was finished by some of his
scholars. " Wilkie also visited this church, and gave his modicum of praise to
this painting.

Santa Maria in Capitolo stands on the spot where stood the Capitol of the
Roman masters of the town. St. Pantaleon claims to be the most ancient church
in the city, dating as far back as A. d. 980, when it was reared from the stones of
the Roman bridge which before that time stretched across to Deutz : the Chapel
of the Minorites contains the tomb of Duns Scotus, and a horrible tale is told of
his entombment alive, of his revival in his coffin, his struggle to escape, and his
body found afterwards at the closed door of the sepulchre, with the hand eaten off
by himself ere he died of hunger, St. Gereo7i's displays the bones of the legion
of Theban martyrs ; whilst many other churches which, if existing alone, might be
the boast of any town, are passed over from the riches of Cologne in Gothic archi-
tecture. Indeed the city still deserves its old cognomen of the Rome of the
North ; and should the world be favoured with thirty years more peace, there is
little doubt that the Cathedral, now in process of repair and increase, will escape
from the ban recounted in the Legend, and, rising to completion, be the Gothic
architectural glory of Northern Europe. True to its old Romish cognomen, the
city of Cologne, like Rome itself, still maintains its Carnival, which a traveller who
witnessed it in the spring of 1845 describes in the ^^ Neto Monthly Magazine''''
of IMi*. Colburn, — a description here condensed, since it conveys a faithful
picture of a festival enjoyed by the Germans with more gusto than would be

expected from their usually phlegmatic character.

1()6 TiiK nniNK r.ooK.

^bc Carni'faal at Cologne.

On the nd of February was celcbrntcd the aniuial Carnival of Colojjnc, presenting a scene
tliroiigliout all the principal streets, singularly at variance with the habitual grave, quiet and
business-like atmosphere which pervades that old city. The Carnival lasts three days, but the
grand day was the one which we describe.

The weather (which had been bad in the morning) began to clear up a little over head, the
streets assumed a less dingy appearance, a number of maskers and fancy dresses issued forth, the
windows were rapidly filling with ladies and children, up to the top stories, and from the roofs of
opposite houses cords were extended across the streets, upon which were hung large banners,
flags, devices of all colours, and jack-pudding figures of the size of life, all waving and swinging
together over the crowds that passed below. All the shop-windows had the shutters up, except a
few that sold masks. We followed the stream through several streets, all decorated over head in
the same manner, and the windows filled with spectators, many of whom were also perched upon
the tops of the houses, or sitting like a row of sparrows along the parapet, till we arrived at the
Neu-MarM, a large open square, with double lines of trees encompassing it, and where the military
usually attend parades and exercise, tlie casernfi, or barrack, fronting it on one side. Iliis large
space was roped in, upon the present occasion, on the inside of the surrounding trees, and the ropes
were defended from intruders by soldiers placed at intervals. A crowd had therefore collected on
the outside of the ro])es all round the square, and within this space the various cars, and orna-
mental carts, and waggons, and platforms on wheels, and horsemen, and bands of music, and mimes,
and mummers, and masqueraders were fast assembling. We soon discovered that this sacred
enclosure was penctral)le by the payment often silber groschcn (about one shilling English), and
we accordingly entered, and had an opportunity of making more close and undisturbed observations
than could otherwise have been obtained. But it will give the reader a much better idea of tlie
scene to describe the effect of the whole, as the cortege passed through the different streets.
Having seen all the "rout" of men and women, and " pleasant monsters" in detail, we took up a
station on a high ground, to sec the whole pass in succession, and now invite the reader to jilace
himself at our side.

Several horsemen, in fancy dresses, advance at the head of the procession, which slowly winds
its way, in a long train, out of the great square, and commences its passage through all the
principal streets of the city. Among the horsemen, the most cons]>icuous is a very large man,
with a smiling rosy face, attired in a flesh-coloured tight dress, with the skin of a wild beast over
his shoulders, and bearing a club, the thicker or bossy end of which is formed by tlie insertion of
a knuckle of ham, at once presenting a warlike outline and a festive idea. Behind him ride others
who carry bottles and flasks slung at their sides, and one very good-natured, humorous old
countryman is seated astride upon a small barrel, the barrel being fastened upon the horse's back
in jdace of the saddle.

A cottage, mounted upon a waggon or platform on wheels, next makes its appearance. In
front of it stands a large Christmas tree, full of golden fruit, and fairy gifts, and bags of money,
or something better. The roof of the cottage is regularly thatched, and a live crow, jierched upon
the top near the chimney, is evidently a very unwilling participator in tlie scene, and flaps his
wings and opens his bill in wrath at bis inability lo escape.

Soon after this we see a balloon, of red and wliiie. come bobbing along over the heads of the
crowds that line the street on each side, and we ])resently discover that this is intended to reiuesont
a su|)idy, and is afhxed to the centre of a large silver boat, in which stand various figures, attired

THE CARNIVAL AT COLOGNE. 107

in what tliey fancy to be sailors' dresses, but having rather the appearance ot" pastrycooks, or
stewards on board a steamer bound for "an excursion." They present printed songs to the
sjiectators.

But what little thick figure is that which now comes hopping and skipping, on tip-toe, through
the muddy streets in a flesh-coloured dress ? His fleshings fit tight to his shape, and his shape
is not unlike that of the " fat boy" in Boz. His face and hands, though painted, are absolutely
blue with the cold. The cold shows through every wing. You can see that his knees are cold.
He has a pair of golden things of the shape of pancakes, that hang in hopeless inactivity from
his shoulders, and also a pair of wings at his feet, exactly like the fins of a dead porpoise. It is a
German Mercury ! He has got a cigar to comfort him, which some considerate friend in the
crowd has just placed in his eager hands.

A truly splendid figure soon makes up for this. A band of music heralds its advance. It is
a gigantic king, in an embroidered crimson mantle and vest, ornamented with gold devices, and
edged with white fur. He has a very handsome face of royal happiness. Glossy, jet-black curls
hang in profusion over his shoulders, and he is mounted upon a grand jet-black horse of colossal
size — quite a show of itself, and not clumsy, but of dignified heroic action, and appearing conscious
of its own noble presence upon the great occasion.

The tolling of a bell is now heard, and, turning the corner of the street, high as the sscond-floor
windows of the houses, we see a steeple appear ! It is attached to a little church, and passes on
its way, the l)ell constantly announcing its approach. It distributes songs and other printed
effusions as ii proceeds.

A troop of Tyrolese now come singing their way along. Very badly indeed they sing. It is
not only unlike the Tyrolese, but not good singing of any kind. A troop of brigands follow, and
there are many bandits in Italian costumes on horseback. The best and most grotesque figure of
a group mixing with these latter is one who is mounted upon a very strangely-accoutred horse,
and upon his head he wears a sort of heraldry dolphin as a helmet — his face looking out of the
open jaws, while the body and tail of the fish, writhing upright and slanting back, form an excellent
ornamental top.

Preceded by a band of indifFerent music, a large platform drawn by four horses advances.
Various figures in Auicy dresses are stationed upon it, and one of them has a very long, thin pole,
at the top of which he continually sticks a song, a ballad, or a witticism, and hands it up to the
spectators who occupy the windows at each side of the street, as the platform moves along.

Numbers of figures now go huddling by — bandits, and peasants, and grotesque masqueraders,
and characters, among whom we discover Don Quixote and Sancho Panza, but they are very bad
representatives of those celebrated originals. The last of this group is a little knight in full
armour, who is mounted upon a calf. The calf seems to have been partially trained for the
performances of the day, but owing to the confusion of the scene, or his natural stupidity, he often
forgets his lesson, and runs head-foremost into the crowd at one side, or up against a house, or
with his nose between the wheels of the wagijons and cars. Several female characters are on
horseback ; but we are informed that nearly all of them, as well as those who are dressed like
women or girls on the waggons and platforms, are personated by young men.

The cortege is closed with a sort of moving framework, surrounded by a number of leafless
trees and shrubs, and having a squalid hut at one end, at the door of which a woman, dressed like
the wife of a "half-starved gardener," and with a face quite purple with the cold, stands smoking
.1 pipe. Two soldiers, in uniform, appear as the very unnecessary guards of this most uninviting
garden and woman. At the back of the hut is written " Wintergartni." They give songs as they
pass.

108

THE RHINE BOOK.

Selecting one of these songs, we offer tlie following translation :

mDlncr-iMrT0tJtc.

Be brisk ! — to horse and wapgon I

Be brisk ! — no long delays !
Thought's lost in flask and flagon,

In these our mirth-mad days.
Make way ye higli-neck'd tyros.

Who think yourselves too tall,
With carnival-made heroes.

To jig it at the ball.

All pride this day is buried.

Each man"s a hero true,
His eye will find its pleasure

In all that's bright and new.
Now rich and poor are equal ;

No rank — no work — all play ;
Beginning, middle, sequel,

It is one laugh all day.

See ye the waggons motley I

See ye the full inask'd ball !
With the crowd's pressure carried,

You must see one and all !
Hepent your deeds, you sinner,

Pluck up the world's bad weeds,
I'lant fancies of the children.

The first of all gaud seeds.

Back ! back I you Speculators !

No buying, selling here ;
No cake and sugar traffic,

No money for your beer !
Give, or get out ! — be merry.

For none shall come our way.
Who will not most sincerely,

Be fools with us to-day !

These songs are of various character, some of them written in Low German, provincial dialect,
or patois, full of pirns and local allusions, and are, consequently, not translatable. These, therefore,
we must pass over, but of the intelligible sort a brief specimen may not be uninteresting to lOnglish
readers. We should premise that the most prevalent armament for a gentleman's head during the
Carnival is a Fool's cap. Nor is the fashion confined to Cologne ; for at Mainz (Mai/ence) during
this period there was one grand assemblage in the " Hall of Fools," where some four or five
liundred gentlemen sat down to dinner in these caps. A procession also took place in Bonn,
comprising horsemen and vehicles of all kinds, when the number of caps could not have been less
than two or three thousand. One of the songs thus commences :

jF0or^--ra}) ^ans.

.loviAi-, joyous, fresh and free.
Wearers of Fools'-caps are we !
On horseback in procession gay
Through the streets we take our way,
Gazing upward as we go
At ladies, laughing in a row
'I'o hear us sing Ilalti-hallo.

For dinner soon wc throng the hall.
But wearing still our Fools'-caps tall —
Caps with several folds and points.
Of white and rod like lobster-joints :
But lobster boil'd look'd ne'er so bright.
Nor ever yot was half so light
As heads will be this merry night.

Here is the first verse of a song in honour oi beer, which is said to have had its origin in the
genius of a royal brewer, and to have been " invented" by a Dutch king named Kambrinus.

Heil dir, Kambrinus, unserm Hort
Im frohcn Festverein, &c.

All hail, Kunibrinus, our defender,
Kefugc, rtjoicer, great Beer-sender,
In this our holyday-time, .S:c.

The song is accompanied by sundry witticisms on the brewing abilities of various cities and
provinces, under such titles as " Bairisches Bier," " Heidelberger Faulenpelzbier," " Dresdner
Waldschlossbier," " Braunschweiger Mumm," " Berliner kuelile Blonde," " Englischer Ale," &c.

Now that all the motley train has moved away, and nearly all the spectators too, we hurry ott'
towards our hotel. But we meet a crowd on the way, and sudilonly learn that there is a second
cortege close at liand, larger tlian the first. Our progress is iitipeded by its advance u)) the
Hoch-Strasse ; to retreat is impossible, for the crowds are now pressing tiiis way from all t|iiarters.
We are compelled to witness the wiiole train, and resolving therefore to make the best of the

THE CARNIVAL AT COLOGNE. 109

necessity, we forget our cold and wet condition, and take notes in our pocket-book, from wliich
the following is transcribed.

First comes a handsome horseman, in a rich dress, carrying a very large and most beautifully
embroidered l)anner.

He is followed by a small car, containing several odd -looking figures. The car is drawn by two
men in the dress of Prussian peasants, but with pigs' heads, 'i'hese latter attract more attention
than those in the car. Of course, it will be understood that these cars, and waggons, and wheel-
platforms, all present figures and devices emblematic of something — " best known to themselves,"
and to the good folks in Cologne, in most instances ; but occasionally being obviously no more
than the display, as we see occasionally in our own country, of the handicraft and vain-glory of
certain trades and companies.

After this, we descry two excellently grotesque figures of Cupid and Psyche, mounted upon a
gigantic cock and hen. The classical lovers, as well as the fowls, are excessively fat, the former
having a cherubic roundness of limbs and cheeks, and wearing wreaths of roses round their heads.
The cock and hen are admirably contrived, and walk with a coquettish air.

Immediately behind these advances a numerous brass band on horseback and in uniform, every
one of whom has a grandmother's bonnet upon his head.

Close upon the band come a group of dancers, apparently intended to represent Swiss peasantry.
Considering the uneven stones, the snow-slush, and muddy water through which they tread tiie
" giddy maze," and the undoubted coolness of the " fantastic toe," they really deserve the highest
credit for the apparent hilarity with which they continue their pastime.

A car now approaches, which ever and anon produces a great sensation in the crowd on each
side. The car is laden in front with cake. Cakes of the size of large tea-boards are piled
upon each other. They are of a sweet spongy kind, and great pieces are continually broken off
by the figures in the car, and thrown among the spectators in the streets. If the scrambling for
the songs and witticisms is considerable, the efforts to obtain the cake are of a kind which
approaches the desperate ; all, however, in good-humour ; much struggling, but no fighting.

A colossal chariot of triumph now appears, the most lofty and splendid of all the train. The
body of the chariot is of the shell shape, and is supported upon the back of a fierce dragon, whose
open jaws are seen in front, while his immense tail writhes out behind, and his huge, forky
wings of green and gold are spread out at each side. The wheels of the chariot are of a bright
silver hue, but raised upon an invisible framework, which moves upon wheels underneath. In
the chariot are seated a splendidly attired king and queen, perhaps of ancient Greece, but more
probably of some of the fabulous countries of romance. The whole is drawn by six white horses.
It reminds us of some of the descriptions in the " Knight's Tale " of Chaucer. A higher compli-
ment we could not pay it.

Several grotesque figures on foot pass onward In the train, among which are two double drums,
and two contre-hassos, all walking upright, and apparently of their own accord, with an occasional
reeling motion, as if about to commence a dance. The drums are fellows of no "expression,"
their outline wants character, but the double-basses look like strange Brobdignag insects of the
beetle genus.

Some chorus singing is next attempted, but it is as abominable as other noises of a similar kind
which have issued from sundry cars and waggons. Upon such an occasion as this one would have
thought that a city like Cologne might have furnished something decent for its own sake, to say
nothing of the musical reputation of Germany. But all the choruses were abortive, and often
mere vulgar discords. Tliey were worse even than the singing of the students by night in the
streets of Bonn.

110

THE RHINE BOOK.

Is it the god Pluto who now advances in his dark chariot ? Yes, he is a Pluto, and surrounded
by various characteristic attendants. He is probably the emblematic representative of some large
company of manufacturers of iron, brass, copper, and other metals. We suspect that underneath
a canopy in the centre of the platform he has had the good sense to secrete a stove with a fire
iu it.

Following Pluto comes a sort of Ironmonger's shop, raised upon a square platform ; and upon
high rails there hang at the four quarters many sorts of cooking utensils — pots, pans, ovens,
saucepans, strainers, boilers, fish-kettles, and even tea-kettles — though to obtain water really boiling,
to make tea, is nearly impossible in Germany, and as for the tea, it is chiefly furnished from the
hedges, if one may judge by the taste, and also by examining the leaves when wet and opened out.
The occupants of this moveable shop have black faces, and they distribute songs.

The next waggon displays what looks something like the press-room of a Printing Office. But
the printers have all got asses' heads ! Why this should be, and what satire is meant to be con-
veyed by it, we do not understand. Does it point to the " press " in Germany, which is any
thing but free? Does it mean to tell us that strong slaves are fools (being strong) to continue
slaves ? We do not know.

A Toy-shop moves onwards in the train, hung round with toys in the same style as the pots and
pans of the ironmonger's.

This is followed by a large platform, displaying a harvest, with wheatsheaves, and male and
female harvesters. The harvesters are dancing, with implements of husbandrv in their hands,
to the imminent danger, as it sometimes appears, of cutting off each other's heads with reap-hooks,
and other formidable emblems of peace.

A still larger platform follows, of a higher poetical character, not unworthy of a few stanzas in
the " Faery Queene." It displays a large palm-tree in the centre, round which various figures of
"old romance" are congregated. At each corner of the front, uplifted and reclining upon o|)en
carved work, a girl in white robes is playing upon a golden harp ; and at the two corners behind
similar figures are also seen. The effect was beautiful, and, alas ! too transitory.

It is not necessary to tell the English public that German Sausages are of long-established
celebrity ; but the aforesaid public has no notion of the great variety, as to taste, size, texture,
colour, shape, wholosomeness and unwholesomeness, which the prolific and inventive genius of the
country produces. Accordingly it was impossible that the opportunity of a grand disi)lay afforded
by the Carnival could be lost by the compilers of that richly savoury but most ungraceful article, or
by the witty amateurs of the same. The shop on wheels which now approaches is hung all round
with innumerable sausages of all dcscrii)tions, from the small, ordinary size, to those which are as
large as the thickest part of a boa-constrictor — red, pink, brown, puce-coloured, putty-coloured,
yellow, mottled, and jet black. At the front of the jjlatform hang from each corner half a piw,
the halves being very large, flattened, and cured, but certainly not yet claiming the rank of bacon.
In the centre of the shop, a number of manufacturers stand round a block, and chop sausage-meat,
singing a patois chorus with the chopping accompaniment. Here is a verse.

iiMrfi-iHrlairtr.

BuiNO iDrtli the pi^'s meat, Butchcrliiigs bold :

Hack I hack ! &c.
Aiul the beef, aii<l the voal, in swuct herbs roll'd ;

Hack ! hack ! S,c.
Bring forth all rascals wlio live in Cologne,

Hack ! hack : Sec.
And we'll soon make them honest ami clean — to tlie binie

Hack ! Iiack ! &c.

THE CARNIVAL AT COLOGNE. Ill

An editice, very like a large summer-house, is the next thing tliat engages our attention. But
we are prevented from further observation by seeing what follows it, which is the last platform of
the cortege, and is so broad that it nearly fills up the street. The crowd press backwards, on
each side — some rush forwards, others stoop down to allow certain moveable portions of the
paraphernalia to take their course overhead. It seems to be drawn by six grey horses. The
confusion has become so great that we are only able to see an immense barge-like car — if we
mistake not — over the sides of which are extended long and broad gilded oars, and these go
slowly sweeping along the streets, taking off hats and caps from the crowd in their passage onward,
knocking against many heads, and threatening windows by thumping occasionally against the
shutters. A crowd follows it behind, leaping up every now and then to obtain the songs or
witticisms which it distributes.

It is all over so far ; and the next thing to be done is to hurry to our hotel, and change the wet
and soiled habiliments. It is now two o'clock. The usual dinner-hour of the hotels is one o'clock,
but during Carnival days we are informed that the hour is half-past two. Our time we therefore
portion out for the rest of the day in the following manner:. — first, dinner, which will probably
terminate about four o'clock ; then the Kunstreiterei (horsemanship), which is excellent in
Cologne; then the Puppen-theater, where plays are acted by dolls, who fairly walk about upon a
stage, " the words " being spoken for them by invisible interlocutors ; then the theatre, or musical
entertainments or farces of whatever kind may be going forward ; then supper, and a long medita-
tion upon the vanities of the world while reclining upon a sofa; and finally to go to the famous
masked ball at the Giirzenich.

A word may be said about the dinner. The Germans laugh excessively at the description of
an English public dinner when the various dishes are mentioned. When one is accustomed to
the German cookery, the dishes do not, in general, appear strange, yet to those who have not heard
of such " compositions" before, some of the following, which were served upon the presL-nt occasion,
may seem peculiar. We had baked beef, with salad and preserved plums ; potatoes fried with
vinegar and sugar, and potatoes and milk and water, covered with fried, and very greasy, bread
crumbs ; stewed veal with carrots, and red pickled cabbage with sugar ; baked ducks with pickled
cherries, or brandy cherries rather sour; salmon in a sauce of oil and white batter; and turnips
dressed with butter, and grated cinnamon, &c. Then came the puddings (black-puddings
inclusive) and preserves of apples, pears, and prunes, and various sweet or savoury things, and
then, according to custom, slices of hot baked mutton, with a rich sauce. After this the dessert
begins slowly to come iu, during which the dressed characters (among whoin we recognised the
King and Queen of the splendid dragon-chariot in the second cortege) rise, and contiive to dance
in a very narrow space, which is gained by pushing one of the tables a little aside. Other of the
Carnival heroes walk about the room and make speeches, some of which are full of political
allusions, carefully enveloped in jokes, but occasionally bordering upon high treason, and producing
applause and laughter.

The heroes and dancers resumed their seats ; there was no other attempt at supporting a
character; throughout the day the " dresses" were the principal "actors." The band now began
to play a well-known air, which had been some years since composed for the Carnival, and the
whole happy company at each table took part in it in the following manner. One of the heroes
took the post of leader of the chorus, a)id sung the air with the band, accompanied by the whole
room. With the beginning of the next verse, or recommenceinent of the air, the leader set the
example of clapping his hands "to the tune," and this hand-clapping accompaniment was accord-
ingly made by all present. The leader next began to whistle with the band, and we all whistled.
The next thing was to tap the wine glasses with the back of the dessert-knives, which produced

112

THE RHINE BOOK.

a multitudinous ringing and jingling sound, and, of course, many glasses were liroken by ambitious
performers. ^Marking time, or beating the " melody" with the feet upon the floor, followed this,
with a sounding, unanimous, solid, satisfactory effect. The next " variation" upon this very
original melody, was that of rattling the plates upon the table; and because, at the conclusion,
enough jjlates liad not been broken, a number of gentlemen broke tlieir plates upon their own
heads, the white fragments falling upon their shoulders, and down their backs in all directions.
Then we had an imitation of the braced drum, everybody drumming upon the table with tlie
handles of his knife and fork ; a harsh noise, in which the band could scarcely be heard. A
laughing accompaniment followed, and was very well executed by us all.

The festive days being concluded, many heroes, heroines, and all devout persons, betake them-
selves to church on Aschcnmittwoch (Ash Wednesday), and make the sign of the cross upon their
foreheads with water in which ashes have been cast, by way of expressing penitence for having
been more merry than wise during the Carnival.

^ -W^ I

^'^^

COLOGNE.

113

INTERCHArTER FOR THE TRAVELLER.

COT.OGNE.

1 Cathedral.

2 New Market.

3 Old Market.

4 Square of the Cathedral.

5 i*aiace of Justice.

6 Arsenal.

7 Archbishop's Palace.

8 Theatre.

9 WallrafF's Museum.

10 Town Hall.

11 Trade Hall.

12 Exchange.

13 Casino.

14 General Post Office.

15 Hospital for Citizens.

16 Royal Bank.

17 Quay for Rhine Steam-boats.
IS Quay for Lower Rhine boats.

19 Severin Strasse.

20 Perlengraben.

21 Blaiibach.

2^<i Nachelskaule.

23 IVIuhlbach.

24 Malzbiichel.

25 Hochpforle.

26 Hoch Strasse.

27 Grosse Neugasse.
2S Jobannis Strasse.
29 Eigelstein Strasse.
oO Machabaer Strasse.

31 Unter Kranenbaumen.

32 Alter (Jr.iben.

33 Zeiigbau<i Strasse.
54 Breite Strasse.

35 Schilderer Strasse.

36 St, Cecilien Strasse.

37 (iereon Strasse.

38 Friedrich V\'ilhem Strasse.
59 Am BoIIwerk.

40 St. Cuneberlsufer.

In Deutz.

41 Church.

42 Barracks.

COLOGNE.

HOTELS.

Royale. Cour Imperiale.

Hollande. Cologne.

Imperial. Grosse Ilheinburg.

Belle Vue, (across the river.)

CHIEF THINGS TO BE SEEN IN COLOGNK.

1. The Cathedral.

2. The Museum.

3. The Church of the Jesuits.

4. The Church of St. Ursula.

5. The " Roman Tower."

6. The Church of the Apostles.

7. The Church of St. Peter's.

8. The Church of St. Mary.

9. The Gurzenich.

10. The Town Hall, (Rathhaus).

11. The Birth-place of Rubens.

114

THE RHINE BOOK.

The Cathedral is built in the form of a
cross, the arches supported by a quadruple row
of 64 columns, including the semi-columns;
and, if we include those of the portico, there
are more than one hundred. The four columns
in the middle are 30 feet in circumference ; and
each of the liundred columns is surmounted by
a capital different from the others. The two
towers, which were intended to be 500 feet high,
remain unfinished, the northern one being not
more than 21 feet above the ground, and the
other is little more than half the intended height
The great bell weighs 25,000 lbs. At the top
of this tower, the crane used in raising the stones
brought from the mountain of Drachenfels is
still seen. The choir and the chapels are the
only finished portions of the cathedral ; but
workmen are busy in the attempt to complete
the building. God speed them !

The Shrine of the Three Kings is made
a puppet-show of, like Westminster Abbey and
St. Paul's, London. The fee to the showman
is six francs ; and tourists frequently either
leave it unseen (which is wrong), or make up a
party (as the fee is the same for six as for one ) ;
and so gaze on the relics, and cheat the Swiss
of the excessive fee he ought not to be allowed
to take. Another hint for the King of Prussia !
In the cathedral should be seen the pictures,
the tombs, the library, and the shrines.

A staircase on the left side of the choir, close
to the eighth pillar, leads to the library of the
cathedral, and to the hall called Goldene Kammer
(Golden Chamber). The library formerly
contained a very fine collection of books, and a
great number of manuscripts of the time of
Charlemagne, all of which were taken away
during the Revolution. The doors of the
library are curiously carved, and the wardrobes
contain the dresses of the priests.

The Church ok St. Maky of the Capitol.
— The upper part of the choir, and the colon-
nade of round arclies, were built in the eighth
century ; but the greater j)art of the diurch,
particularly the top of the nave, appears to have
been re-constructed in the fourteenth, tlie church
having suffered much during tlie invasion of the

Normans. In this church are several ancient
pictures. It h;is likewise a superb organ.

The Church of St. Gereon was built in
1066, by Archbishop Anno, on the same spot
on which the temple erected by St. Helena for-
merly stood. Its cupola, with three galleries,
is a grar.d and astonishing work ; and the church
is certainly one of the finest in Cologne. In the
crypt are two chapels, the floors of which are
ancient mosaic work. On the side of the altars,
at the entrance of tlie church, are two pictures
by C. Schiit and Geldorf.

The Church of St. Cunibert, near the
Rhine, is a large building, with an altar in
imitation of the grand altar of St. Peter's at
Rome.

The Church of St. Peter is built on the
ruins of a Roman temple, the vestibule of which
still exists. Rubens was baptized in this church
on St. Peter's day. His picture of the Cruci-
fixion of that Apostle is its chief attraction. The
font in which Rubens was baptized is still
shown here, as well as the tombstone of his
father.

The Convent of St. Ursula is remarkable
for its relation to the legend of that saint and
her eleven thousand virgins. The church is
filled with bones.

The Town Hall of Cologne should certainly
be seen, as a speciinen of ancient German archi-
tecture.

The Kafh.\us of Gurzenich (commercial
depot), has a large hall, wliere several Diets of
the Empire have been held, and in which the
Emperor Maximilian gave several fetes.

The Church of the Jesuits is overladen
with decorations. It contains the crosier of
Francis Xavier and the rosary of Ignatius
Loyola.

The Museum of Wai.i.raff should also be
visited, altliough the pictures disappoint many
who see them.

Private Collections. — Haan, Raumoister,
Merlo, Zanoli, Kaatz, Essingh, Weycr, and
Geeling.

The Casino, situated near the theatre, is a
modern building, into which strangers may be

COLOGNE.

115

introduced by a member : the innkeepers ge-
nerally belong to these societies.

Eau de Cologne is to be bought at no less
than seventy makers. Farina's store is in Ju-
lich's Place.

DISTANCES FROSI THE PRINCIPAL PLACES ON THE

RHINE, BETWEEN COLOGNE AND MAYENCE,

FOLLOWING THE TOWING-PATH.

Cologne to Rodenkirchen
From thence to Weiss

Wesling

Widdig

Hersel

Rheindorf

Bonn -

Plittersdorf -

Mehlem

Oberwinter

Remagea

Kripp, opposite Linz

Brewig

Brohl -

Fornig

Andernach

Weissenthurm

Urmitz

Katten Engers

Sebastian Engers

Kesselheim

Neuendorf

Coblentz

Capellen

Rhens -

Niederspey

Oberspey

Boppart

Salzig -

Hirzenach

St. Goar

Oberwesel

Caub -

Bacharach

Lorch -

Assmanshausen

Bingen

Leagues.
- 1

3
?
3

n
n

1
?
I
i

3
5
3

•2
3
%

Leagues.

Kempten - - - i

Gaulsheim - - - |

Frei%veinheim - - - 1

Budenheim - - - 2

Mayence - - - 2

Making 41| leagues from Cologne to
Mayence, or about 125 English miles.
The distance from Rotterdam to Cologne is
19\ leagues, and the total length of the Rhine
from the source to the sea 303i leagues.

Steam- Boats. — It is at Cologne that steam-
boats again become interesting. There are
two companies working from Cologne up and
down the Rhine ; the Steam Nas'igation Com-
pany of the Lower and ^Middle Rhine, esta-
blished in 1838, under the name of the " Dus-
seldorf Company ; " and the Rhenish Steam
Navigation Cologne Company, established in
1827. The boats of the two companies are dis-
tinguishable by the chimneys of the Dusseldorf
Company being painted white and black ; those
of the Rhenish Steam Navigation Company
entirely black. These boats run to Mannheim,
From Mannheim the Baden railroad is now
open to Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, Baden-Baden,
Kehl (Strasbourg), and Offenbourg, and will
shortly be extended to Freiburg and to Basle.

The Dusseldorf Company's boats are — The
Elberfeldt, Victoria, Kron-Prinz von Prussia,
Gros Kerzogln von Hessen, Stradt Bonn, Duke
of Nassau, Gutenberg, &c.

FARES FROM COLOGNE BY BOTH COMPANIES.

Pavilion.

First
Saloon.

Second
Saloon.

fr.

fr. c.

To Bonn -

.50

1 75

— 90

Neuwied -

7, 65

3 25

Coblentz -

8 75

3 75

Bingen

14 Go

6 50

Creuznach -

16 15

8 —

Riebrich -

16 .50

7 40

Wiesbaden

17 25

8 15

Mayence -

16 75

7 50

Gernsheim

19 15

9 15

Darmstadt

20 50

10 .50

Mannheim

21 90

11 —

A company of five persons or under can hire
the pavilion for their exclusive use, for which
they have to pay seven times the pavilion fare ;

« a

116

THE RHINE BOOK.

and for every person above five, in aiidition,
the fare in first cal)ln.

HisTOKv. — Cologne was a bishopric in the
year 314, and, in 799, was erected into an arch-
bishopric by Charlemagne. In the ancient
constitution of Germany, the archbishop as-
sumed tlie title of Born Legate of the Holy See,
and arch-chancellor of the sacred empire for
Italy. He gave his vote after the Elector of
Treves, and sat at the right hand of tlic em-
peror, at assemblies held in his own diocese, in
Gaul, or in Italy. Cologne is situated, in the
form of a crescent, on the banks of the Rhine,
and is fortified ; but its walls are in so decayed
and tottering a state, that they are incapable
of affording much defence. The whole of its
length, along the river, is about 3^ miles. The
streets are narrow, winding, and gloomy, and
most of the houses are very lofty and old ; and
yet this city is said to contain within its com-
pass more ciiurches, chapels, and monasteries,

than there are days in the year. The vessels
that may be always seen in tlie port of Cologne
are very numerous; the quay, more than IJ
mile long, is generally crowded with vessels.
Under the old police, if a Jew came into the
city, he was accompanied by a guard during
his stay, and obliged to pay a ducat for every
hour of his continuance there. In the year
1618 the Protestants were also expelled; but
some years after tliey obtained permission to
return. . The magistrates indeed gave them
leave to erect a place of worship, which was
destroyed by the infatuated mob as soon as it
was finished. Near this city some pseudo-vol-
canic remains have been traced, which are
thought to be such as are mentioned by Tacitus
at the close of the 13th book of his Annals, the
effects of subterranean fire which ravaged the
country of the Juhones. N. lat. 50° 55' 21".
E. long. 6° 55'. The population at present is
80,000.

THE KOUBERS OF THE RHINE.

117

_ U i£i:FKJ.S.

THE ROBBERS OP THE RHINE.

o soon as the Traveller has contented himself with his visit to Cologne,
^ and is ready to proceed upon his way, he has choice of reaching
Bonn " by Rhine or by railway. " If he has a liking for Iiis bed in
the morning, the chemin defer must be his choice, but if he possesses
the happy power of rising early, he will then take his seat upon the
deck of the steamer.

As the banks have yet but little interest, he may amuse himself by scanning the

story of the marauders of this neighbourhood, whose exploits surprised all Europe.

The fullest and best account of the Robbers of the Rhine — the modei-n

prototypes of the old freebooters, — was furnished, in 1833, by Mr. Leitcli Ritchie,

in his Travelling Sketches.

" Towards the close of the French Revolution," says the author of the Romance of French
History, " the banks of the Rhine, and the surrounding country from Holland to Mainz, were the
theatre of exploits as strange and wild, and the haunt of men as extraordinary, as any that are
exhibited in history. The French laws were not yet in full operation in Belgium, nor the conflict
of opinion and parties at an end. Every thing was in confusion. The very elements of society
seemed to have been broken up and disorganized by the moral earthquake that had occurred. A
lawless and reckless spirit pervaded all ranks of people, and made room, in individual cases, for
the development of talents and energies that, under ordinary circumstances, would have continued
to slumber in embryo.

118 THE RHINE BOOK.

"Energies so called up must, like spirits summoned by sorcery, be evil in their nature ; and
accordingly a reign of terror commenced, scarcely less extraordinary than the events of the
Revolution itself. From Belgium a criminal could easily pass into Holland if pursued, or into
the countries bordering the Rhine; and there the minute subdivisions of the Germanic Confede-
ration, in which each petty prince maintained a jealous independence of the rest, rendered pursuit
almost hopeless. The policy, therefore, of great criminals, in their choice of localities, will be
easily comprehended.

" But, as the genius of individuals began to gather together the elements of lawless power, and
unite the various little roving bands in one compact society, it was seen that the magnitude of the
mass would force the alarmed governments into a league against them, and that thus their very
strength would prove their destruction. How to obviate this difficulty was the cjuestion — how
to increase rather than diminish their numbers, and to tighten rather than relax the bond of union,
without presenting any tangible surface to the authorities ; and, out of the speculations on this
knotty point, there arose at length one of the most remarkable associations that are mentioned
in history.

" The known and ostensible members of the band were diminished in number, rather than
increased, by the new constitution. These, under the captain-ship of some individual raised to the
post by his courage or talents, inhabited as their head-quarters an old castle or ruined mill; or
pitched their wandering camp in the recesses of a forest. It was, in fact, easy to find a harbour
capable of accommodating a much larger force, in times when so many country families had fled for
refuge, from the horrors of war, to the more populous and protected towns. The roads between
town and town were for the same reason comparatively deserted, except by travellers and
merchants : and the villages cut off from all peaceable inter-communication.

" Having fixed upon a camp, or rendezvous, the next important step was to secure the safe passage
of the bandits through the territory, by establishing every where a line of posts, affording succour
and shelter in case of need. This was easily arranged by enlisting in the cause the more needy
and desperate of the innkeepers and aubergistes. Some of these, in the country parts, had been
left helpless and alone, like stranded barks, by the ebbing tide of population ; and, as their
profession at any rate is not suspected of predisposing strongly to honesty, they were found in
general to enter con amore into the proposals that were made to ihem.

" In the slang of the robbers — a jargon compounded of Hebrew, High and Low German, and
French — these places of refuge were called Kochemer-bcyes, ■w\\&l\\er public-houses or not; and
there a member when pursued was sure of protection and advice ; and his address, or that of the
band, was always to be procured by those who wanted it for a friendly purpose. To such perfection
had this system been carried, that it is understood that a robber could travel from the farther
extremity of Holland to the Danube, with the certainty of spending every night in the company,
or under the protection, of friends.

" In numerous cases, also, the functionaries of police, from the magistrate down to the lowest
officer, were in the pay of the band ; and it was frequently observed that tlie anxiety of a robber,
taken even in the fact, was at once dissipated, as if by a magic spell, on the name of the worthy
being pronounced before whom he was about to be carried.

♦' Names, dress, character, complexion, and features, were changed with wonderful facility by
these intelligent and industrious persons. Our Dutch merchant and German baron are specimens.
As for the passports, they were managed entirely by the womankind, who had a great talent for
business.

" The persons we have described, however, were I'cw in number, periiaps not more than a dozen
men and their families. Where, then, were the banditti who kejit the country in terror? — who,

THE ROBBERS OF THE RHINE. 119

amidst the noise of fire-arms that was heard over half a province, carried villages, and even towns,
by assault, and either plundered them of their moveable riches, or held them to ransom at the
point of the sword? In the villages, in the towns themselves, in isolated farm-houses, in obscure
or remote inns, were domiciled these mysterious freebooters. These were the body, and the
former the soul ; these the executive and the former the legislative power of this invisible state.
The former were the chiefs and their immediate attendants ; the latter the great mass of the band,
distributed over the face of the country, inhabiting their own houses, working at their own trades
or professions, yet ready, at a signal understood only by themselves, to vanish from their homes
and families, and follow, wherever they were led, to the death.

" They were called Apprentices. They were bound to the society by the most tremendous oaths
— which they were rarely tempted to break, well knowing that an invisible dagger hung over
their heads, which was sure to descend even on a suspicion of their falsehood. A miserable
■wretch, who had been taken by the police, and securely lodged in a dungeon, once revealed, in the
agonies of his terror, the rendezvous of his chief — the famous Picard. The next night, while
reflecting in horror that, even by his treachery, he had probably been unable to save his life,
he heard his name pronounced in a whisper ; and, looking up, saw an arm passed between the
iron bars of the window.

♦" Who art thou ?' inquired the robber, trembling,

'" Thy master — Picard ; I have ventured my life, as in duty bound, to set thee at liberty ! ' In
a few minutes his irons were sawed oflT, and one of the bars wrenched from the windo%v-frame ;
and, following his conductor, he scaled the wall, and scented the free air of the neighbouring forest.
The band were ready to receive them, drawn up in a semicircle, and standing under arms, in dead
silence. Their delivered comrade was placed in the middle.

'" Schleichener / ^ said the chief, addressing him with the slang epithet for traitor, • Didst thou
imagine that the word of treason would be unheard by Picard because it was whispered in the
depths of a dungeon ? Die, coward, in thy guilt ! '

" ' Mercy ; mercy ! ' cried the wretch, as the pistol touched his ear — ' Give me death, but let it
be in battle ! Lead me on this very night, were it to the attack of an army, and let me die upon
the bayonets of the foe ! '

'" It must not be,' said Picard, calmly, ' thou art unworthy of the death of the brave. Comrades,
shall the laws of the band be set aside in favour of a hound like this ? "

"' No!' growled the deep stern voice of the lieutenant; and the word was echoed, by some in
cruelty, by many in dismay, till it died away like a prolonged groan in the forest. The white
lips of the coward closed at the sound ; and a bullet, passing through his brain at the same
moment, quieted his fears for ever.

" Another story is told at Aix-la-Chapelle, which does not satisfy quite so well one's ideas of
retributive justice. A fine young man of that city was enrolled as an apprentice by the ferocious
Jikjak of Mersen, and awaited impatiently the commands of his chief, being desirous, not only of
distinguishing himself in the career to which his follies had driven him, but of obtaining money
enough to enable him to marry his sweetheart. It is not known whether his weakness was owing
to love or wine, or both together ; but, unhappily, he divulged, one evening, the secret of his
destiny to the terrified girl ; and, the next morning, he was called by Jikjak, in person, to
accompany him in an expedition. The youth followed more in shame than fear ; inwardly
resolving to make up for his harmless treason by gaining that day a character for courage which
should command the respect of the whole band. •

" And yet, as he followed his mute and gloomy conductor, a misgiving, at times, came over him.
There were numerous other apprentices, he knew, in Aix-la-Chapelle, and in the villages through

120 THE RHINE BOOK.

which they passed. What kind of enterprise, then, could the renowned chieftain contemi)late, in
which he desired the assistance of only a single unknown, untried individual ? The younj^ man
shivered as they entered the black sliade of a forest ; but, wlien his conductor stopped suddenly
at a newly-made pit resembling a grave, his knees knocked together, and the hair rose upon his
head.

" ' Perjured traitor ! ' said the chief. ' Say thy pater-noster, for thou must die !'

" ' I deserve death,' replied the apprentice, ' yet try me once again ! To-morrow the girl will
he my wife, and we shall remove — far from her friends and acquaintance — wherever you command.
Only try me ! I am as brave as thou ! '

" • Thou hast broken the laws of the band, and therefore thou must die ! Down on thy knees,
down ; ' and with one Herculean arm he bent him, by main force, to the earth ; while with the
other, he raised a hatchet above his head.

" ' Only hear me ! — '

"' Reprobate! Wilt thou die without a prayer?' The youth submitted ; and, by the time the
word ' Amen ' had fairly passed his lips, the iron was deep in his brain.

" The apprentices were evenly distributed over the country, and were prohibited from assembling,
even at fairs, or on such casual occasions, in bodies of more than three or four. If they were seen
by a chief in greater number, a significant sign commanded them instantly to disi^erse, and
disobedience was sure to be followed by punishment. The same policy dictated the choice of
distant scenes for their enterprises ; and it was no uncommon thing for the citizens of Mainz to be
visited by the banditti of the Lower INIcusc, or for the Weser and the Elbe to be thrown into
consternation by the roving bands of the Rhine.

" An important expedition was rarely undertaken except by the advice and agency of one of the
Jewish spies, called holdovers in the slang of the freebooters. These persons no sooner became
acquainted with the existence and locality of a booty than they opened negociations with a robber-
chief; and, if he came into their terms, which were usually exorbitant, made the necessary
disclosures. An enterprise so conducted was sure to end in bloodshed and cruelty ; for the Jew,
in order to justify the extravagance of his demand, lied and cheated, as Jews have done habitually
from the days of Jacob. The robbers, seduced by their avarice, were only too ready to believe
the tale in its full extent ; and their miserable victims paid in blood and torture the deficiency in
their expected hoards. When the pillage was at length effected, the haldoi-er usually offered to act
also as the scherfenspieler, or receiver; and in this character bought the spoils — no doubt, a
dead bargain. He thus made a double profit, — robbed the robbers, and spoiled the Egyptians
twice.

" The assembling of the band for any great enterprise was conducted with the cautious i)olicy
which distinguished this remarkable society. The members were generally summoned by a
confidential messenger, or perhaps the chief in person, and set out for the rendezvous, sometimes
alone, but never in parties exceeding three or four. Each man's mode of travelling was regulated
by his usual habits, or by his wealth or grade in society. Some were on horseback, others in
carriages, others on foot ; and a few had the charge of bringing waggons for the transpt)rt of the
booty. As the way was commonly long, and broken by forests and ravines, some place on the
route, of sufhcient notoriety to be known to the whole, was ai)pointeci, and there the .successive
groups of travellers began to look anxiously out for tlie Kochemeresink, or direction-signs left for
their guidance by the leaders. These, place<l at the cross-ways, were sometimes merely a line
traced upon the road, which each party, jiassing, intersected with a shorter line; so that the tra-
vellers not only knew their route, but the number of friends who had preceded them. Some-
times, when more caution was necessary, a branch of a tree was thrown down, as if accidentally,

THE ROBBERS OF THE RHINE. 121

near the road, with the greater part of the foliage on the side which it was proper to take. In all
their strategetic measures, it will be seen that they calculated securely upon the absolute
inviolability of their secret ; and the examples we have given show on what grounds their
confidence was built.

" Frequently, the journey was performed in the middle of the night, and a sign of recognition,
therefore, was necessary, which did not depend upon the organs of vision. To whistle, the
expedient of common thieves, would not only have been vulgar, but dangerous; inasmuch as the
sound, when heard in the dark, is sure to call up a thousand cut-throat associations The
Kochemloschen, therefore, was invented, a shrill and lengthened cry ; which the belated wayfarer,
although no doubt startled by the sound rising from the brakes and thickets as he passed, would
be more ready to set down as the voice of owls, or evil spirits, than the call of robbers.

" When all had, at length, reached the place of rendezvous, an inspection of arms took place, and
the schnelles, alias pistols, were loaded. The words were then given which were to signify advance
or retreat ; torches were distributed, to be lighted instantaneously, at a particular signal ; and
the column moved on in profound silence.

" The captain marched at the head of his troop, armed, besides his other weapons, with a crow-bar,
the baton of his office. After him was carried the ram, a classical engine, used for battering down
doors and walls. It was usually a beam of timber a dozen feet long, but, when this was not to be
come at easily, a finger-post from the road, or a cross from the church-yard, if heavy enough to
answer the purpose, was an excellent substitute. Then came the subalterns, bearing the other
tools of their trade, which they called clamones ; and, finally, the private gentlemen of the band,
armed, like the rest, to the teeth. The faces of the whole were blackened, or otherwise disguised ;
partly to prevent the possibility of recognition, but principally to impress the attacked with the
idea that the robbers were of the same neighbourhood — although, in reality, they had probably
never before been within a dozen miles of the place.

" Arrived at the l)ourg, or village, in which, to simplify the affair, we shall suppose that a single
house was to be the object of attack, some persons acquainted with the localities were sent to
muffle the church-bell, and kidnap the watchmen. These ' guardians of the night ' were very
like the King Logs we have now exchanged in London for an infinitely worse nuisance : they
slept themselves, and, on awaking, being indignant to find every body else asleep, roused the town
by bawling the hour. Having tied up the watchmen in a bundle, and thrown them into a corner,
the band marched openly upon the devoted house, surrounding it instantaneously with a cordon
militaire.

" No summons was given to surrender, no notification made of the coming attack. A tremendous
shout declared the presence and purpose of the enemy ; their torches, lighted at the same instant,
flared suddenly up like meteors in the night ; and the ram was applied to the principal entrance in
the midst of a volley of musketry. The firing was kept up without intermission, being now especially
directed to the windows in which any light was visible ; the astonished inmates, deprived of all
presence of mind by the sudden noise and confusion, stood staring at one another in dismay ; and
the rest of the town, believing that nothing less than a pitched battle was in progress in the streets,
barricaded their doors, extinguished their lights, and hid themselves in tiieir cellars.

" The door at length yielded to the repeated blows of the ram, and the captain led the way into
their land of Jewish promise. If any hesitation was evinced on the part of one of his followers, he
turned round, and blew out his brains on the instant — such power bging vested in him by tlie
laws of the society. This military execution, however, was rarely necessary. Within grasp of
their expected booty, the most timid became brave, and all rushed at once into the house,
fighting their way, if the inmates had recovered their senses, and were in sufficient force to resist.

122

THE RHINE BOOK.

till they were in possession of the field. The victims — men, women, and children — were then
bound hand and foot, and wrapped up in mats or carpets ; the buikling was illuminated from the
garret to the cellar ; and the search for plunder commenced.

" Woe to the miserable wretches, if the promises of the haldover were not made good by the
amount of booty ! No oaths, no protestations, could convince the robbers that the deficient treasure
existed only in the imagination of the scoundrel Jew. Deaf at once to reason and to mercy, the
most horrible tortures, ending sometimes in death itself, were inflicted ; and so completely did the
passion take possession of their souls, that they looked almost with indifference upon their real
gains, in the eagerness of their longings after mure.

" When the booty was at length collected, packed, and ready to be transported, the captain
called ofF his bloodhounds. If any of these were seriously wounded, they were placed on the
shoulders of the rest: if an alarm of rescue was heard, they were slain; — on the principle that
' dead men tell no tales.' When the rescue actually came, the banditti retired in military order,
and sometimes made good their retreat under the fire of regular troops. When unmolested, they
fired a feu dejoie, and began their marcli with fearful shouts and yells, waving their torches in the
air ; but, as soon as they had reached the place of rendezvous, the lights were simultaneously extin-
guished, their cries sunk into silence, and, separating into small groups, they vanished, like evil
spirits in the night."

123

MAP

OF THE

BEAUTIES OF THE RHINE.

COLOGNE TO MAYENCE,

WITH NOTES OF REFERENCE.

On the evening before lie leaves Cologne, the Traveller will do well to scan
well the Map of that pox'tion of the Rhine which is best Avorth knowing. He can
then arrange his plans, and decide at what points he will stop. Bonn should be the
first, in order that he may visit the environs of that city ; Coblentz the next, from
whence he may, if he has time and inclination, make a voyage up the Moselle :
above Coblentz, almost every spot at which the steamer touches is worth
exploring, and certainly those who make the Rhine the object of their tour should
see it thoroughly. For this purpose it is perhaps the best plan to pass up the
river from Bonn to Mayence in the steamers, thus viewing the scenery from the
deck, and on returning to forsake the vessel between Bingen and Coblentz, and
travel along the banks.

124

THE RHINE BOOK.

MAP OF THE RHINE, FROM COLOGNE TO MAYENCE.

COLOGNE

TocUyad,

JiedZundorf
Zvjijclxrf

Orau,

Kreu, htrq^

Kessenirh ''
Hockkreuz

PliUfrsd,

R Gndtshtrg J I ,' J J

M'ehlem

Nonnerutei

W/VKoiiifswintep

( ,</ \lt'olkmhurg Ci

y\hRohndor ^ ^

'\ffonne ^^'

J(0landsftk\ il l'\ \] s
HoUiadswcrdi | Y>fliji^,,,arfilhach
OberwwUryM 1 Sc/ieuem

'Wukel

x i)Jleifter

Hem agc:i>v ^^H^Oci^nkU

N. B. At all places marked S. B.
are stations of the Cologne and Dus-
seldorf steamers.

Cologne (Colonia Agrippina),
{S.B.) the largest town of the Prus-
sian Rhenish provinces, is of Roman
origin. It has 72,000 inhabitants,
and has lately been made a fortress :
its circumference is live English
miles.

Curiosities. — The Cathedral, be-
gun in 1247, continued until 1437.
Its restoration commenced in 1827,
and the foundation stone of the future
works laid in 1842. — The Jesuit's
Church and Library. — St. Ursula
(bones of the 11,000 virgins). —
St. Gereon. — The Apostles' Church.
— St. Peter's Church. — St. ]\Iary in
the Capitol. — The Giirzenich. — The
Town Hall — The Walraff Museum
(pictures, antiquities). — The modern
buildings ai'c, the Casino, the Go-
vernment House, the Tlieatre, &c. —
Panorama by Meister. — Collections,
Haan, Baumeister, v. Geyr, Mei'lo,
Zanoli, v. Herwegh, Kaatz, Essingh,
Weyer, and Geerling.

Baths and Pump-rooms. — Arti-
ficial mineral water establishment,
in the Botanical Garden. Cold,
warm, and Russian baths, in No. 72.
Schiklergasso, and No 19. Marzel-
lenstrasse. Foiu' Rhine baths.

Traces of Amusement. — Deutz ;
Belle Vue, on the tower ; Rhine- Auc ;
Bayen House; Briihl ; Bcnsberg -.the
Abbey Alteuborg. now rebuilding.

Inns on the Jihine. — The Kiinig-

MAP COLOGNE TO REMAGEN. 125

liche Ilof, Kolner Hof, Hollaendische Hof, Rhineberg, Russische Hof, Rheinische
Hof: in the town, the Kaiserliche Hof, Maintzer Hof, Dom Hotel, and the
Germanische Hof.

Steam Boats, S^c. — Three companies send their boats several times daily up
and down the Rhine ; a railroad to Aix ; the Post House is one of the most
extensive in Prussia.

Deutz, — opposite to and united with Cologne by a bridge of boats, is also
fortified, and has 3000 inhabitants. The cavalry workshops are worth seeing.
The Hotel de Belle Vue has a garden, is a good inn, and is much frequented as a
place of recreation,

Wesslingen (S.B.) — A large village, of 940 inhabitants, near which is the
small town Bruhl, with 2000 inhabitants, and a beautiful castle.

Bonn (S.B.) — University, of Roman origin, Bonna or Bonnensia Castra, with
15,000 inhabitants, without the students (800). — Curiosities. — The Minster, built
in the 13th centviry. — The University, and its paintings in fresco. — The Stern-
warte. — The Alte Zoll. — Beethoven's birth-place, Bonngasse, No. 815. — Public
Walks. — Poppelsdorf, Endenich, Roisdorf. — I?ms. — The Stern (Star), Trierscher
Hof (Hotel de Treves), the Kolnische Hof, the Maintzer Hof, the Rlieinische
Hof, the Alte Keller, and Hotel de Belle Vue.

Plittersdorf (S.B.) — A small village, and station for travellers by steam to
Godesberg.

Godesberg. — A cheerful village, with its castle, a splendid ruin. Near it the
Draitscher Brunnen, with pump-rooms and inns. Above Godesberg is the
Hochkreuz, a Gothic monument.

NiEDER DoLLENDORF. — A small village, near which are the ruins of the Abbey
of Heistei'bach, of the twelfth century.

Konigswinter (S.B.), a small town at the foot of the Drachenfels. Of the
Siebengebirge, or Seven Mountains, the Lowenberg is 1896, the Oelberg 1836,
the Wolkenburg 1842, the Drachenfels 1056 feet high. The latter is the most
interesting. Its summit is crowned with ruins, and commands a magnificent
view. On the Drachenfels is a good inn.

ROLANDSECK and NoNNENWERTH {S. B.), with the Seven Mountains, form one
of the finest points on the Rhine. The ruins of Rolandseck have recently been
restored, and the ancient convent Nonnenwerth converted into an inn. With
these two points is linked the famous tradition of Roland's love.

Appolinarisberg. — Formerly a provostship ; the church has lately been rebuilt
in the pointed arch style, at the expense of Count Fiirstenberg, after the plan of
INIi'. Zwirner, the present architect of the Cologne Cathedral.

Remagen {S.B.y — The Rigomagum of the Romans, a small but very ancient
town of 1700 inhabitants, with a curiously carved gateway near the pai'sonage.

WaOer
Leuisdorl

THE RHINE BOOK.

rgendorf
\Schlc4r^cn/clf
Honningen

Rheinlrohl
Nieff Ifammerstdn
R HamnursUin
'b HanunersMn. ^,, . ,

Leuttsdvrf 'Of'^'^'J"''

Friednichstein gen Tetifels/ui^^
A'etJtAausai
ch
Heddcsdorf
Neuwied

' Engcrs
' MuJil/iorcn.

BendorF

Vdllendar
MaUcnda

yifdenerlh

^ '•'fJrbar

^ . vesselic/v

ijy Kiedcrherg

" ^ EhreriBytitsUiw

" \-' PlnfhndoTffrIlak'r\~

El'leiUKorf
orch}ieim>

liopparl ]']( rr--

Manmhini \ -Jr. ' Ofi^n, , i'
" '" " LiibcntcK

Sahif),

' ^ Kl'jsC BornhcfcTL
' y/tK.St.ernbcrj
R.LUbemUin

'fi.;/i h'ttstcri

and a church in the
Byzantine style. Near
this i^lace is tlie
mouth of the Ahr, and
its romantic valley.

LnxTZ (^.^.)— A
small but very indus-
trious town, of 2400
inhabitants ; close by
are Linzerhausen, and
the ruins of Okken-
fels.

SixziG (lat. Senti-
acum). — Originally a
Roman castle, after-
wards a free Reich-
stadt, with 1600 in-
habitants. The church
is remarkable, and
contains a painting
which commemorates
the victory gained
by Constantine over
Maxentius.

Brohl. — Near this
are stone quarries, and
a very singular vol-
canic ravine. From
here the road leads to
the Lake and Abbey
of Laach, and to the
tomb of St. Genovefa.

Castle Reinkck
lias been rebuilt by
its owner, Professor
Bethmann-IIollwog ;
the barbican aloni' i>
ancient. Splendid

decorations, and a
nobU' view, invite llie

MAP HAMMKRSTEIN TO NIEDERLAHNSTEIN. 127

traveller to enter. The steam-boats start from the village Niedrig Breisig
{S.B.).

Hammerstein. — A total ruin. Here Henry IV. reposed while escaping from
the hands of his son, in 1105.

Andernach (Antunacum, Antoniacum, S.B.) — A Roman castle. The archi-
tectui'al remains of the middle ages, the rampart and gates are remarkable : 3100
inhabitants.

Teufelshaus. — Properly Friedrichstein ; the ruin of a castle begun in the
17th century, and never finished.

Neuavied (S.B). — A cheerful modern town of 6400 inhabitants, in the prin-
cipality of Wied. Here all persuasions live in harmony. The Moravians live in
community. The palace contains a collection of natural curiosities and Roman
antiquities. Opposite is

Weissenthurm. — Of historical note, as the spot where the French crossed the
Rhine in 1797, and the monument erected to General Hoche.

Engers (S.B.) — A hamlet of 900 inhabitants. The palace, garden, and park
are worth visiting.

Sain (two miles from the Rhine). Here is an old castle with handsome
grounds, the ironfoundery, and near it the Abbey of Romersdorf.

CoBLENTZ (S.B.). — Once a Roman fort (Confluentes), at the mouth of the
Moselle, is fortified, and has 15,000 inhabitants. Curiosities. — The Church of
St. Kastor, the Kastorbrunnen, the Church of St. Florian, and of Notre Dame, the
Ordenshaus, the Moselle Bridge, the Palace, and Clemens Square. Collectiotis. —
The Town Picture Gallery, the Town Library, Van der Meulen, Diez, Bohl,
V. Lassaulx, Lasinsky, &c. Inns. — On the Rhine, the Riese (Giant), Belle Vue,
Trois Suisses, the Pariser Hof, the Rheinberg. In the town, the Trierische
Hof, the Kolnische Hof, the Wild Boar. Conveyances. — The Rhine steam-boats
run several times daily up and down ; the Moselle steam-boats daily : to Ems there
are coaches almost every hour in summer.

Thal Ehrenbreitstein, 2800 inhabitants, at the foot of the fortress of Ehren-
breitstein, which is built upon a rock 400 feet high, and has long been considered
impregnable. It Avas destroyed by the French at the peace of Luneville, and was
begun to be rebuilt in 1816. The labour of ascending it is rewarded by a most
magnificent view.

From Cologne to JNIayence the Rhine becomes narrower, and castles, ruins,
and villages follow in rich succession as far as Bingen, where the Rheingavi begins.
There is but space for slight notice of them in this part of the Volume.

Ha]vevierstein is the last Prussian village on the right bank of the river.

NiEDERLAHNSTEiN, with St. John's Church, is on the mouth of the Lahn ; from
here to Mayence the right bank belongs to the duchy of Nassau.

128

THE RUtNE BOOK.

Einauichi
Primtiutan

R Rhcmrels\
SI- Goar;

Oberwesel

S SchonAierg

Bacharach
Ji StnhUcU "^

Stolzexfel?, one of the proudest ornaments of the Rhine. This castle was
destroyed in 1685, but has been rebuilt by King Frederic "William IV. It is

appropriately called " Stolze Fels " (Proud
Rock), and commands magnificent views.
Opposite to it is

Oberlahnstein, a small village, with the
^\'^TAumicr<,odJiau. ^^^^^^^^ ^^,j^^^.^ Wcnccslaus was dcposcd. In

the back-ground the ruins of Lahneck are
visible.

Rhense, celebrated for its Konigs-stuhl
(King's Seat), which has lately been restored.

Braubach ( S. B.), a small town, with
1300 inhabitants, at the foot of the

INIarksburg, the only castle on the Rhine
in its primitive state. It is used as a state
prison, and is garrisoned by invalids ; the
chamber of torture is curious.

Wdmich

,^R die Katz
S* Goarstausen

Larhyf

1 R Riiudc

Dorsckeid

aub
Gwbmhls

R Sautrhurg
.J-k.VaMcdo ^Saiifrthal

i? i^^7rf^,.i^*. A M^-^"'^"'

Bheindiehacfi

Sitd- Htimback
I< Htimhwrg'i

R SoTUUtlc "J
Trechlinqshiuistn, \

Xaugen ScLwaUiach;

orch.

SchlangenbcbSi

Assma nshauseri'

\ % Rossel %-

\\-\R Ehrenfch -;.
"Tcwpel- ^
^ ^Kudesaci

R 'Reirhtnstei'i, I
am ialkenburq 'r ■

RRhcvnitein't h!

UauiiCkuTTnS

Bin|ea ;'

• WUnhtrni

lUUjilLiinL-::,

Crisqiheun ^

limunihal
JchxuiTUjberg ^i^rbachl ^.^l^.

Wiesbaden

Kcmptm

DiuUnhtim
Mombarh

Buhricfv

AtAINZ (.^\.c

" nttbiUe

Cas(el

irorlilieiin

MAP BOPPART TO STAHLECK. 129

At NiEDERSPEY, Peterspey, and Osterspey, the Rhine makes a great bend,
which continues as far as

BoPPART {S. B.), a small town of Roman origin, with 3500 inhabitants, and
surrounded with walls. The Pfarrkirche, the Tempelhof, and the ancient convent
of Marieuberg, are worthy of notice.

BoRNHOFEN has a convent, and lies at the foot of the two ruins

Sternenberg and Liebenstein, also called the Brothers ; they are interesting
from their position, and the story connected with them.

Welmich, with 4.50 inhabitants, and a fine church tower, lies at the foot of the

Ruins of Thurnberg : it was built in 1563, and the walls are still entire. It
was also called " the Mouse," in contrast to another, " the Cat," near St. Goars-
hausen.

St. Goar {S. B.), a small town, with 1300 inhabitants, lying in the midst of the
glories of the Rhine, is peculiarly adapted for a halting- place. The Catholic
Church, St. Goar, and the Evangelican Church, are worthy of notice, and the

Fortress of Riieinfels, the most extensive ruin on the Rhine, built in 1245.
In 1255 and in 1692 it was in vain besieged, but in 1797 it was abandoned
without an effort to the French, who destroyed it.

St. Goarshausen, opposite St. Goar, forms the entrance to the beautiful
Schweitzer-Thai. On the hill are the

Ruins of Katz (Cat), properly Katzenellenbogen, destroyed by the French
in 1806.

The Lurleifelsen, celebrated for its traditions, and remarkable echo. Near
it are the Seven Rocks in the Rhine, called also the Seven Virgins.

Oberwesel (*S'. B,) has 2300 inhabitants, and is of Roman origin. The Lieb-
frauen Church, Martin's Church, and Werner's Chapel, are worthy of notice.
Near it arise the

Ruins of Schunberg, or Schomburg.

Caub (<S'. B.) has 1500 inhabitants, and is the point where Bliicher in 1814, on
New Year's Eve, crossed the Rhine. Over Caub is the

Ruin of Gutenfels, said by tradition to be so named after the fair Guda,
beloved by Richard of Cornwall. In the Rhine lies

The Pfalz, built in 1326, probably for a toll-house. According to tradition
the Palatine countesses, and even the German empresses, for safety here awaited
their accouchements. A sketch of it is given on page 1.

Bacharach {S. B.), an ancient town, with 1700 inhabitants, is still provided with
walls and twelve towers. The Gothic churcli of St. Werner is peculiarly worthy
of notice. Above the town, on a hill, lies the

Ruin of Staiileck, eight times besieged and taken iu the Thirty Years' War,
and totally destroyed during the reign of Louis XIV.

130

Tin; JilllXK HOOK.

LoRCH (<S'. B.), 1800 inliabitants, at the mouth of the AVisper, in the entrance
to the romantic Sauerthal. The church is the most ancient on the Rhine, and
was built in the ninth century. Here are situated on one side the

Ruins of Roi.lingkx, and on the other the

Ruins of Fursteneck.

The Ruins of IIeimburg, destroyed in 1282 by the Emperor Rudolph, are
followed by the Ruins of Sonneck, Falkenberg, and Clemen's Chapel : then comes

Rheinstein, or Vautsbekg, rebuilt and furnished with a collection of military
equipments, and objects of art, by the King of Prussia. Opposite lies

AssMANSHAUSEN, Celebrated for its excellent red wine, and is the halting-place
for ascending the

N1EDERWAI.D, so celebrated for its noble prospect. On this hill lies the Ruins
of Ehrenfels, also the Temple, and the Rossel. In the Rhine lies

The Mausethurm (the Mouse Tower), to indicate a point of the Bingerloch,
once so dangerous to navigators, but at present rendered safe. With this tower
are connected the traditions of Bishop Hatto and the Seven Watchmen.

BiNGEN {S. B.), 5000 inhabitants, at the mouth of the Nahe, one of the glories
of the Rhine ; forms the boundary between Prussia and Hessen-Darmstadt. A
visit to Rochusberg, Rupertsberg, Elisenhohe, and the Ruins of Klopp, is well
repaid. An excursion to the charming Nahethal must delight the tourist.

RuDESHEiM, opposite Bingen, with 2400 inhabitants, is celebrated fur its
wines.

The Ruins of Bromserburg, a castle of the 11th century, and lately fitted u|i
in a cheerful style by the Countess of Ingelheini. With it is connected the tradi-
tion of Gisela. Close by is the Boosenburg, and at no great distance the ancient
convent, Noth Gottes.

Geisenhei.m (S. B.), a cheerful town of 2500 inhabitants, with handsome
country houses, and a churcli of the 15th century, with a modern tower. An
interesting collection of painted glass belonging to the Freiherr v. Zwierlein.
Near this is the

Johannisbekg Castle, celebrated for its wine. It was erected in 1106 as a
convent, and came, after varied destinies, into possession of Prince Metternich in
1816. The internal arrangements ai-e splendid, without being overcharged; the
prospect charming. In the church is a monument to Nicholas \'ogt.

In MiTTEiJiKiM is an ancient and remarkable church, built in 1140. Here at
short distances are seen the village of Oestrich {S. B.), and of Ilattenheim, with
the splendid property called Schloss Reichartshausen, belonging to Count Scluin-
born ; and on the left bank is observed

NiEDEK-IxGEMiELM, witli 2000 inhabitants, and scanty remains ot the gorgeuu-s
Imperial P;ilace of Charlenjagne. The tomb, also, of llildtgardis. Opposite is

MAP EUBACII TO MAYICNCK

lai

EiiBACH, and the Markobrunn Hills, celebrated for their wine.

KiDRiCH. The Cliurch and Michael's Chapel are Gothic monuments of the
loth and 16th centuries.

Ellfeld (Eltwill, S. B.), 2000 inhabitants. A castle with Gothic watch tower.
Fine villas, and a collection of pictures belonging to Count Elz.

Nieder-Walluff {S. B.), with 800 inhabitants, and nice country houses.
Near by the village Schierstein, 1000 inhabitants. The collection of antiquities
and paintings belonging to the Archivist Habel is interesting.

BiEBERiCH (S. B.) has 3000 inhabitants, and was formerly the residence of the
Duke of Nassau. The palace is tastefully and richly fitted up, and the gardens
are very pleasant. A railroad to Wiesbaden.

Mayence {S. B. Moguntia), the principal town of the Grand Duchy of Hesse-
Darmstadt, opposite the junction of the Main with the Rhine; has 36,000 inhabit-
ants ; is the chief fortress of the German Confederation, and has a Prussian and
Austrian garrison. It is of Roman origin. It is an important place of trade, and
renowned for the discovery of the art of printing. Remarkable objects. — The
Cathedral, six times burnt down, is restored, and contains the tombs of Fastrade
and Henr. Frauenlob : St. Stephen's Church, with its lofty tower : St. Ignatius,
St. Peter, and St. Emmeran. The old and new Palaces, the Arsenal, the Palace
of Justice, the Library, and Gutemburg's Monument. Public Walhs. — The
Neue Anlage, the Eichelstein, the Wasserleitung, the Rhine Bridge. Inns. —
The Rheinische, the Holliindische, the European, and Hessische Hof, the Queen
Victoria, the Stadt Mannheim, and Stadt Maintz, &c.

Castell (2000 inhabitants) is opposite to and united with Mayence by a bridge
of boats, and is fortified. Here is the station of the Taunus railroad to Wiesbaden
and Frankfort.

\ ■

132

THK RHINE BOOK.

BONN AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

The

HE city of Bonn has the honour of being the birth-phiee of Beethoven,
who first saw the light on the seventeenth of December, 1770. One
of the tliree great German musicians of modern time, the townsmen
are naturally prouJ of his name and memory, although the maestro
deserted his native place early in life to make his home at Vienna,
musician Avill linger about the house, Bonngasse, No. 815, whei'C Beethoven
born and spent his youthful days, and where he conned his first lessons
in the divine science he was destined to advance. The
scholar will feel an interest in the University, where up-
wards of seven hundred students are busy, where Niebuhr
and SciiLEGEL have taught, and the Prince Consort of
England, Prince Albert, received his education. The
antiquary will visit the Cathedral, founded by the mother
of Constantine the Great, and will inspect the Museum of
Rhenish antiquities. Every traveller may well follow
their example ; but whether he does or not, he must
not fail to see the view of the Rhine from the rami)arts,
or to make excursions round Bonn,
never omitting a ramble to the valley
of the Ahr ; and another to the Dra-
chenfels. The scene from the ramparts
was partially anticipated by the tourist
from the deck before Bonn was reached ;
but it loses none of its interest by that
glance, which gives only a foretaste of
what the Traveller has be-
fore him. A walk through
the wood to the summit of
the Kreutzberg is repaid
by a charming prospect,
including the outlines of
the Sieben-gebcrgcn —
the Seven INIountains.

These hills of lava and
basalt have their tale of
faithlessness, jealousy, and

revenge.

MkjNN UAl'HBUUllL,

Stimulated liy religions

THE SEVEN MOINTAINS.

133

zeal, the lord of a castle on
the Seven Mountains enlisted
in the ranks of the Crusaders,
and fought gallantly in the
van of those who sought

to place the cross upon the

walls of the Holy City.

After long years of absence

he returned, to find that a

neighbouring chieftain had in his absence

estranged from him the faith of his lady,

who, to escape his wrath, fled to a

convent. The seducer escaped, and the

innocent evidence of infidelity was secreted

for many years ft-om the sight of the injured

husband. But he nursed his sense of wounded

Iionour, and in his old age meeting a youth near

Godesburg in whom he recognised a likeness to

his wife, he questioned him, and finding that it was

the boy he so long had sought, without pity for

his youth, he visited the sin of the mother upon her

offspring and slew him in the high road, on the spot

where the Hoch Kreuz now stands — a monument which

tradition says was erected to hold the deed in memory

as a warning to weak wives and faithless friends.

Dkachenfels is a name fjimiliar " as a household
word" to the ear of the Englishman. This fame has
been created by the often quoted lines of Byron, who
wandered up the Rhine in a fit of poetry and indigestion,
which did not, however, prevent him from painting the scenery with
jy^j^ the power and truthfulness of a master. One part of his picture,

however, is unfaithful. Unhappily, the " peasant girls with deep blue eyes " are
seen toiling through the heaviest labours of husbandry, instead of finding leisure
for the more poetical employment of gathering or offering " early flowers."

The castled crag of Drachenfels
Frowns o'er the wide and windnig Rhine.
Whose breast of waters broadly swells,
Between the banks which bear the vine,
And hills all rich with blossom'd trees.
And fields which promise corn and wine.
And scatier'd cities crowning these,
Whose far white walls along them shine.
Have strew'd a scene which 1 should see
With double joj' wert thou w ith me.

134

rilK IJIITNK HOOK.

And peasant girls with cippp blue eyes.
And hands wliicli oflVr early flowers.
Walk smiling o'er this paradise ;
Above, the frequent feudal towers
Through green leaves lift their walls of

gray.
And many a rock which steeply lour!:,
And noble arch in proud decay.
Look o'er this vale of vintage-bowers ;
But one thing want these banks of

Khine, —
Thy gentle hand to clasp in mine !

The river nobly foams and flows,
The charm of this enchanted ground.
And all its thousand turns disclose
.Some fresher beauty varying round :
The haughtiest breast its wish might

bound
Through life to dwell delighted here ;
Nor could on earth a spot be found
To nature and to me so dear.
Could thy dear eyes in following mine
.Still sweeten more these banks of Khine !

RoLATsDSECK has a fine
view and a legend, wliicli it
enjoys in common with the

CONVENT ON THE ISLAND OF
NONNENWERTH.

The glory of the lists and
the admiration of the fair dames and maidens who gazed
upon the contests of chivalry, the youthful Roland had
nought to desire but the love of some fixir being whose
beauty and whose virtues could deserve and retain the
heart of so brave and gallant a young knight. Nor did
he look long round about in vain, for Hilda, the daughter
of the lord of the Drachcnfels, was all that dreams had pic-
tured to his youthful fancy as worthy of an ardent souVs
devotion ; and soon he was made happy by a confession from
the maiden that his passion was returned. Lost in a dream
of first love, the knight forgot the world and its struggles,
and in the expectation of an early day for his wedding
with his mistress, he had no care for the morrow, but
lived a life of perfect joy; — now gazing with Hilda upon the windings of the
Rhine ; now watching her as she stooped gracefully to tend the flowers which
peace allowed to flourish under the walls of her father's abode ; now wandering
with his arm round tlie t!i])er waist of his affianced bride, talking of the hnpi)incss
in store for them.

But Roland lived in times when love was but the bright, transient epi.sodc of m
life of war. The laws of chivalry forbade a true knight's neglect ol" duty, and in

THE LEGEND OF ROLAND.

135

the week he was to be wedded, the fatal summons came to call him to his post in
the field. The struggle was bitter, but short. " You would love me less, dear
Hilda, if you knew me recreant even for your sake ; " and with bitter regrets
cheered by hope of a speedy
return, he left his mistress

,^.^i'^--

in her home on the Dra-
chenfels.

The war was long, for the
enemy was brave and the
forces were nearly equal, and
it was not for three years
that the laws of honour
would allow Roland to leave the camp. But
the long-sought day came at last, and with
a bounding heart he set out upon his way
back to the Rhine. Light in his stirrups rode he
that journey, and still lighter were the songs with
which he strove to temper his impatience and beguile
his way. Late on the fourth day he came in sight of
the home of his ladye-love, and swimming his war-horse
boldly across the rapid stream he bounded
on foot up the steep.

Frightful Avas the wel-
come he received. The
castle was in ruins ; its lord
was slain ; and Hilda, de-
ceived by reports of Ro-
land's death, had taken the
veil in the neighbouring
convent of Nonnenwerth !

Over the bright path of
the young knight a dark
and lasting shadow was cast.
His early hopes were broken
— the joy of his existence
had fled — his spirit bent
beneath tiie weight of his evil fortune. But his faith and constancy were beyond
the control of Fate. Retiring to his castle of Rolandseck he made himself a
resting-place before a window from which he could look down upon the island of
Nonnenwerth and the convent that held in the chains of the church his beloved

IHE OONTtNl OS IBE loI.ANIi Of NONNl-

136 Tilt; ninxK book.

Hilda. "Whether she heard of his return, tradition docs not say, but such
constancy did perhaps waft its rumour through the jealous watchfulness of a
nunnery wall. Be that as it may, it is chronicled that, after Roland's watch had
been for three years prolonged, he heard one evening the tones of the bell that
tolled for a passing soul, and next day the white figures of the nuns were seen
bearing a sister to her last home.

Roland felt that it was Hilda's funeral, and when his servants, alarmed by his
watch being prolonged deep into the night, came to urge his retirement to rest,
they saw his eyes were fixed on Hilda's grave in death: — a smile brightening
his features, as though his spirit's last influence upon his frame had left a happy
anticipation of the meeting of two kindred souls in those realms of immortality
where " all that is of earth, earthy " has no leave to enter.

Note. — In reference to the Valley of the Ah% (another excursion in tliis locality,) it may he well
to (juote a passage from a clever letter by one of the Travelling Correspondents of the AtheniEum: —

" I have already pointed out one or two by-ways in the Rhine-land worth exploring, and, at
least, a word of notice for the benefit of future tourists, sketchers, &c. The latter, in particular,
will have reason to tliank you if you further direct them to the Ahr valley — a passage of scenery
greatly in favour among the Dutch, but which the English seem hardly ever to reach, if one may
judge by the names in the Fremden-huch of that best of all country inns, the Sternat Ahrweiler.
There can be nothing of its kind more striking and original than the view from the castle, which
is the closing point of the excursion at Altinahr — a splendid fragment of ruin, triuniiiliing upon
a scarcely accessible crag, at the foot of which the clear stream wanders in the most capricious
sinuosities. The lieap of stones whicli was Saff'enburg is perched on an eyrie little less imijosiiiir
from its height, and peculiar from the windings of the stream. Ahrweiler, too, is beautifullv
situated; and besides the attraction of capital sleeping quarters which it offers in the inn aforesaid,
the ardiitect would find no worthless subject for his meditations in the church, by tlie earlv mass
in whicli he will jjossibly be waked at five o'clock a. m., or thereabouts, if not worn out by his
ramble. The tower is in the Romanesque style; eight-sided, and singularly harmonious in its
])roportions. Apropos of this same tower, I have wondered again and again, durin<' the last

fortnight, to see how strangely the German architects of our own day overlook their own models

at best, how infelicitously they copy them. It would be hard, I suspect, to find a good new
building in tliis simjile and most cHectlve style of architecture. Nor has it hitherto been, appa-
rently, much affected in this district, if we except Professor Bethman Ilollweg's show-hox at
llheincck, where the forms and arrangements which, without force of language, are, beyond all
others, mystically ecclesiastic, have been pressed into the service of modern domestic luxury. Tlie
twin spires of the church at Geissenhciin, an object of much admiration, are a minikin attempt
at tlie spire of Strasl)urg Min.ster. The chajiel recently patched on to tlie princely castle of the
Rheinstein, is as frivolous and piccolo as if it had been modelled for a presse papier, or the cotton-box
of one of the indefatigable tapestry-working fhiiikin with whom the hniil abounds. Little less
felicitous appears to me the eking-out and Mihstitiitions at the Stolzeiifols. Nor is it cai)tious to
call attention to these, since the mania for building in critical situations seems spreading. \\'e
hear that Godesberg is to be repaired, and put in hal)ital)le order ; and that the K;itz aliove St.
Goarsliausen lias found a purchaser bent ujion its heaulilication."

BONN.

137

INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER.

1. CATHEDRAt.

2. Church of the Minorites.

3. Church of the Jesoits.

4. PoaT Office.

5. Barracks.

6. University.

7. Promenade.

8. School of Anatomt.

9. TowK Hall.
10 Police Office,
11. Theatre.

1"3. Tribunal.

13. GTMNAaiUM.

14. EoTAL Post Office

15. Hospital op St. James.

10. House of Corkection

17. Cavalrt Barracks,

18. Mine Office.

19. EVANQELICAJ. ChURCH,

20. Landino Place of Cologne Com-

pany's Steamers.
21 Landing Place of Dusselldorff
Company's Steamers.

BONN.

HOTELS.

The Star Hotel, by M. Schmitz.
Treves Hotel.
Grand Hotel Royal.
Hotel Belle Vue.

CHIEF THINGS TO BE SEEN IN BONN.

The University, formerly the Palace of the
Archbishop of Cologne. Prince Albert was
educated here.

The Frescoes in the Hall of the University,

executed by the pupils of Cornelius, and repre-
senting the four learned Faculties — Theology,
Philosophy, Jurisprudence, and Medicine.

The Museum of Popplesdorf.

The Munster Church.

The Statue of Beethoven.

The neighbourhood of Bonn has several
spots worthy a visit, particularly Godesburg,
Nonnenwerth, the Drachenfels, Rolandseck,
and the Valley of the Ahr.

138

THE RHINE BOOK.

The Unmveksity of Bonn,
being the chief point of interest in the place,
some particulars of the institution, condensed
from a volume on the subject by a " Member
of the Middle Temple," may find place here.
This learned corporation (of which the King of
Prussia is the great patron) consists of,

1st. Professors appointed and paid by the
government, and who are called Professors in
ordinary.

2dly. Of Extraordinary professors, also ap-
pointed by the government, — some receiving
salaries, and others not. The number of paid
professors at present in the University is fifty-
seven. Superadded to these are probationary
instructors, academically called Privatim Do-
centes, who get no salaries until qualified by
their standing to become paid professors. Both
classes of government instructors — professors in
ordinary and professors extraordinary — are per-
mitted to deliver lectures in each and all of the
four Faculties, |)rovidcd they shall have proved,
upon examination, that they have a sufficient
knowledge of the subject or subjects upon
which they propose to give what are called
"explications." As an indispensable qualifica-
tion, before they are permitted to receive pupils
in private, the instructors composing the class
of Priva/hn Docentes must have either the degree
of Doctor or be I^icentiates, and must also
show that they had finislied their studies two
years previously. In the two Faculties of
Jurisprudence and Medicine, the Privatim Do-
centes are obliged to confine themselves to
lectures, the object of which is merely to
ascertain whether the students have acquired
such knowledge as will qualify them for exami-
nation, preparatory to their a])i)caring as can-
didates for degrees, and if not, to assist them in
attaining it. Tiiese lectures, according to the
plan upon which they are delivered, are called
" Examinatoria and liepetitoria." The Privatim
Docentes, deriving no emolument from the
State, are only proi)ationers, as has been already
observed, but there arc paid assistants of the
several Faculties, wlio, as well as the professors,
are included under the second head.

The other component academical bodies
are —

3dly. All matriculated students.
4thly. All official persons belonging to the
University, such as the secretary, bedel, questor,
&c.

Supreme Aulhoril;/. — Tliis is vested in the
Minister of Public Worship at Berlin, but prac-
tically delegated to the Curator, as first resident
officer under the government, and acting co-
ordinately with the academical senate, composed
of professors, with the Rector at their head, and
assisted by a judge appointed by the crown.

On the 18th of October of each year, being
the anniversary of the inauguration of the Uni-
versity, the rector's term of office expires, and a
new one is appointed. The Rector is the officer
next in rank to the Curator, and his title is
" His Magnificence," the Latin adjective being
Magnijicus, the term always applied to him.

The Senate. — The academical senate is com-
posed of twelve persons — viz.

1st. The rector, who presides over all its
deliberations, as next in rank to the curator.
2d. The rector of the preceding year.
Sd. Five deans, one of whom belongs to the
Faculty of Roman Catholic theology.
4th. Four professors who are not deans.
5th. The judge appointed by the crown.
Faculties. — For the diffi^rent sciences there
are different faculties, which form a corporation
distinct from that of the University, but directly
as well as indirectly dependent upon it. Of
this internal corporation the Dean is the chief
officer. He is allowed, under the authority of
the University, to confer all degrees except the
highest, that of doctor. In the faculties of
theology and juris])rudence he may confer the
degree of licentiate, and in the faculty of i)hilo-
sophy, that of master.

Every faculty is obliged to arrange its course
of lectures upon every science appertaining to
it, in sucii a manner as that the student may
be enabled to go through the whole science
within the term of three years. The Dean
has change of the register of his faculty, as also
of all letters and jiapers officially addressed to

UNIVERSITY OF BONN.

139

him, and is at liljerty to originate discussions
upon them, if necessary. Besides the power of
conferring degrees under the rank of doctor,
it rests with him either to permit or not allow
applicants to give instruction as Privatim Do-
centes ; but in either case he is responsible to
the University for the exercise of this discre-
tionary power. He is also responsible for the
system upon wliich all young persons in his
faculty pursue their studies, as well as for their
academical conduct, so far as regards attention
or neglect, but nothing more. In all other
respects the student may do as he pleases, with-
out any responsibility attaching to the Dean.

Faculty of Philosophi/. — This far transcends
all the others, in the estimation of the learned,
not only here, but all over Germany, and is
considered to be of the very highest importance.
There is not a single subject connected with
art or science into which it does not enter;
though, as has been before stated, some subjects
are not brought systematically within its com-
pass. The lectures of this faculty are much
more numerously attended than those of any of
the others, and hence the necessity of there
being so large a number of learned persons
to deliver them as eighteen qualified professors.
These, with only two exceptions, discourse
indiscriminately upon every branch of science
according to the circumstances of the occasion,
and evince consummate ability in all.

Of the eighteen there are two who are pro-
fessors of Philosophy, properly so called in its
more limited sense, and who confine themselves
to that branch exclusively, except in one par-
ticular instance. They are bound to give, in
turn, special lectures on the philosophy of re-
ligion ; and in order that opposite systems may
be equally represented upon this most import-
ant of all subjects, one is of the Protestant, and
the other of the Roman Catholic faculty of
theology. The University, as a body, does not
give a preference to eithe--, or countenance the
one more than the other in the slightest respect.
At the present moment both chairs are filled
by two very celebrated men in their respective
departments. These are, Dr. Brandis, on the

Protestant side, and Dr. Clemens, who repre-
sents the Roman Catholic faculty : the former
so well and favourably known to the learned
for his History of Philosophy ; and the latter
raised to great eminence in the estimation, not
only of profound scholars of his own persuasion,
but also in that of persons who totally diflTer
from them. He is quite a young man.

The professors filling other chairs which
belong to the facidty of philosophy lecture on
the following subjects : —

Mathematics and astronomy.

Classics, with philology and archaeology.

Oriental literature and languages.

Modern oratory and literature.

History, and all subjects connected with it.

Physics.

Chemistry.

Natural history and zoology.

Botany.

Mineralogy. v

Politics and statesmansliip.

Technology and economy.

The lecturer upon politics and statesmanship
is Professor Dahlmann, whose expulsion from
the University of Gottingen made so much
noise at the time. His position here has con-
siderably enhanced the reputation he had pre-
viously acquired.

Besides the University itself there are three
other buildings within a very short distance of
it, in which public lectures are delivered, prin-
cipally upon professional and scientific subjects.
These are, the School of Anatomy, the Obser-
vatory, and the Chateau of Popplesdorf; the
latter, a splendid structure in a most beautiful
situation, at the upper end of a noble avenue
with double rows of trees on each side, and
terminating one of the finest vistas wliidi it is
possible to behold. The three buildings, as
well as the grounds appertaining to them, in-
cluding the invaluable Botanical Garden of
Popplesdorf, are the property of the University.
In the litter there are seventeen lecture-rooms,
of different sizes, some on the ground-floor, and
others on the one above it ; the smallest is
capable of accommodating fifty persons, and

140

THE RHINE BOOK.

the largest three hundred. In the same build-
ing spacious and suitable apartments are also
appropriated to the following purposes : —
clinical lectures, hospital for clinical patients,
library, museum for Roman antiquities dis-
covered on the Rhine, museum for Greek
antiquities, obstetric room (lying-in hospital)
for pauper patients, Lutheran church (in this
divine service is also performed according to
the rites of the Church of England). To the
apartments here enumerated must be added
those which are provided as places of residence
for certain oflicial functionaries of the Uni-
versity. At the head of them is the Curator,
the highest officer of the University, and co-
ordinate in authority with the academical
senate. He holds a rank somewhat analogous
to that of chancellor at the University of
Oxford or of Cambridge, and has a magnificent
residence.

Bonn is in Rhenish Prussia, on the left
bank of the Rhine, and contains 12,000 inha-
bitants.

It was formerly the residence of the Electors
of Cologne, after their removal from that city
in 1268.

At the end of a fine avenue of chestnut-trees
is the chateau of Popplesdorf, which contains a
museum of natural history ; it has a botanic
garden attached to it, situated about three-
(juarters of a mile from the town. A short
distance beyond this is a church, placed on the
summit of the Kreutzberb, one of the hills
behind Popplesdorf, which commands some

fine views ; it is also visited for the curiosities
it contains. The sacred stairs which lead up
to Pilate's Judgment Hall are stained with
spots of blood which fell from the wounds on
the brow of the S;»viour, caused by the crown
of thorns : such is the Catholic tradition con-
cerning them ; no person is allowed to ascend
them except on their knees.

The Prussian INIilitarv Svstesi. — In
Prussia every man capable of bearing arras,
(with certain exceptions specified by law,) is
called out into active service at the age of
twenty. These men compose the active, or, to
speak in our language, the standing army.
After serving three years, they return to their
respective homes, and form the King's Reserve
(wor reserve) till the age of 25. At 25 they
are freed from active service, and incorporated
in the Landwehr of the first levy (Aufgebot).
In peace they receive no pay, except during
their times of annual drill. Only the staff is
regularly paid, and belongs to the active army,
in which also it takes promotion. The Land-
wehr of the first levy is called out for exercise
about a month in every year. At 32, the men
pass into the second levy, in which they remain
till the age of 39. The second levy is not
called out to drill. In case of war, the Land-
wehr of the first levy acts with the regular
troops. The second levy is confined to home
service, and can only be marched against the
enemy in case of imminent danger. This is the
military organization of Prussia.

BONN TO COBLENTZ.

141

BONN TO COBLENTZ.

HEN the Traveller leaves Bonn on his voyage up the Rhine he has an
opportunity of seeing from the river several points wliich he was
recommended to include in his previous rambles round that town.
He steams by Nonnerwerth and the Drachenfels, and may listen, if
he will, to the Tradition of the Dragon who gave its name to the rock.
Tliis "dainty eater" fed upon the choicest specimens of humanity, until a beautiful
maiden being after a long contest assigned to it, she held before its godless sight
the holy sign of the cross, whereat the monster was not only abashed, but conquered
— leaping, fi'om a cave where it lived, into the Rhine, from whose waters it has
never since arisen. As he passes Nun Island (Nonnerwerth) he may give ear to
the anecdote of the kindly-hearted Josephine, who prevailed upon Napoleon to
allow the helpless nuns to continue in the home on the island when all the other
religious houses on the Rhine were cleared of their occupants, and devoted to
other purposes. In quick succession he passes the Gothic church of Appoli-
narisberg amidst its woods ; the town of Remagen ; the basaltic precipices of
the Erpeler Lei, seven hundred feet in height, in the holes of which baskets of
earth are placed, and thus grapes grown on the steep bare rocks ; the ruins of the
castle of Ockenfels ; the old town of Linz, with its cross in memory of the battle

-^S^tes-- „.._^

of Leipsig ; the castle of Rhei-
neck, recently restored by a
Professor of Bonn ; and the
village of Brohl, interesting to
the geologist from its volcanic
soil, which, when ground into
powder, is called trass, and
fetches a good price for use as
a cement, because it hardens
under water. Its quarries
afford the stone used by the
ancients for coffins on account
of its power to absorb the
moisture of the corpse, and so
preserve it. Hence the term Sarcophagus— eater of flesh.
" The Castle of Hammerstein is a very prominent object seated

upon a bold rock. It was the asylum, A. d. 1106, of Henry IV., when he became

142

THE ItlllKE BOOK.

the victim of the rising power of the Church of Rome and was driven from his
kingdom by the power of Pope Gregory VII., wlio offered tlie crown to Rudolph
of Suabia, with the inscription —

HAMUERSTlLlN Cl.l Kd.

" Pctra dedit Pctro — Petrus diademi Rhodolpho."

The emperor begged bread and slielter of the Bisliop of vSpeyer, whose see his

ancestors had established — and
was refused. The Pope had
excommunicated him ; and had
he not found refuge in Ham-
merstein, would have perished
by the way-side.

Behind Nieder Ilammer-
stein is a huge rock, higher
than that on which the castle
stands, and these twin heights
are the extremities of a semi-
circle formed of hills.

The village of Namedy. on
the right bank, was the great
place of muster for tlie huge
rafts of timber often spoken of in connection with the Rhine. The materials for
these floating towns came down the Murg, Neckar, Maine, Saar, and Moselle,
and all joining at Namedy, formed a raft of enormous size and gx'eat value. " A
capital of 26,000^. to 34,000/. was requisite to construct and equip one of these
floating villages. The consumption of provisions by the people, amounting fre-
quently to 900, employed on board, from the time the raft first starts until it
reaches Dordrecht, where it is broke up, and the timber sold and transported
abroad, is calculated at 40,000 to 50,000 lbs. of bread, 18,000 to 20,000 lbs. of
fresh meat, 10 CM^t. of smoked meat. 12,000 lbs. of cheese, 10 to 15 cwt. of butter,
120 to 160 bushels of pulse, 500 or 600 ohms of beer, or 90,000 to 108,000 bottles,
and six to eight butts of wine, or 8100 to 10,800 bottles. Live cattle accompany
the raft, with butchers, &c. ; the houses erected on it are neat and convenient ;
and it is stated that these floats afford a favourable opportunity for a contraband
trade in Rhenish wines and mineral waters. The art of conducting a raft was
for nearly fifty years monoj)olised by a modern PnU/iirrus, an inhabitant of
Riidesheiin, and his sons, the various sinuosities and falls of the Rhine rendering
the navigation of so cumbrous a mass extremely dillicult. In latter years, how-
ever, experience has improved the nautical knowledge, ;iud convinced the Rhenish

ANDERNACH. 143

boatmen, that, with due precaution, large rafts might be steered with safety from
phices higher up tlie river, and consequently this place of rendezvous has become
gradually less frequented." — {Toniblesoii's Rhine.)

At Andernach the basaltic mountains approach the water's edge, and the
town has a picturesque though time-worn appearance. The castle of Frederick-
stein next gains attention, with its sobriquet of DeviVs House, given because its
author raised it with the proceeds of an unjust and cruel tax upon his weaker
neighbours. With Andernach is identified the tradition of a Count Palatine,
who, returning from the Holy Wars, was persuaded by a false friend that his lady
had proved faithless ; and, without listening to excuse, drove her forth to the woods.
In the forest she found shelter with her youthful son, lodging in caves and living
on fruits and herbs for many years, when one day her husband, having lost his
companions in the chase, came by accident upon her place of concealment. The
wife of his bosom, carefully nurtured in her youth, now living untended in the
wilds, and his son now grown into a fine youth, excited his pity. Listening to
the truth he took home the innocent victims of perfidy, and retaliated u^ion the
traducer by hanging him from the highest tower of his castle. After her death
the countess became St. Genofeva.

Nearly opposite Nieuwied stands the tomb of General Hoche, near Wiessen-
thijrm, the White Tower, The inscription runs simply — " L'Armee de Sambre
et Meuse a son General Hoche." Speaking of this tomb and epitaph Byron
said — " This is all, and as it should be ; Hoche was esteemed amongst the fii'st
of France's earlier generals until Napoleon monopolised her triumphs. He was
the destined commander of the invading army of Ireland." The monument is
raised not over the body of the general, for he was buried at Coblentz, but at the
point where, in 1797, he carried the French army across the Ehine in spite of a
powerful Austrian force opposed to him. Ctesar passed the river at the same
spot. Hoche was one of the self-made heroes of the French revolutionary period.
The son of a keeper of the dog-kennels of Louis XV., he educated himself by
great perseverance and self-denial ; and, entering the ranks at the age of sixteen,
he died at thirty, the most celebrated commander of the armies of his country.
From this spot the banks have but little interest, until the Traveller comes in
sight of the junction of the Moselle with the Rhine, when Coblentz and Ehren-
breitstein are before him.

Coblentz is not a place to be passed by merely with a glance. It is quite
worthy of a day's attention from the hastiest tourist. The view of the city is
eminently picturesque ; its historical associations are many and interesting ; the
fortress of Ehrenbreitstein — the Broad Stone of Honour — should be seen both
as a fortress and for the views to be enjoyed from the summit ; whilst many
delightful Excursions may be enjoyed in this neighbourhood.

144

THE lUIINE BOOK.

HHR5:>tB!lEIT8TKtN.

Here Elirenbreitstein, with her shatter'd wall

Black with the miner's blast upon her height,
Yet shows of what she was, when shell and ball

Rebounding idly on her strength did light,
A tower of victory ! from whence the flight

Of bafHed foes was watch'd along the plain ;
But Peace destroy'd what War could never bjiglit.

And laid those proud roofs bare to Summer's rain —
On which the iron shower for years liad pour'd in vain. — Byron.

At Coblentz the sons of Charlemagne met to divide their father's empii-e into
France, Germany, and Italy ; there also Edward III., in 1338, met the Emperor
Louis, and was by him appointed vicar of the empire ; and at Coblentz the French
raised a monument in 1814 to commemorate the subjugation of Russia, — as they
reared a column at Boulogne in honour of their invasion of England. Soon after
the inscription was finished the Russian commander entered Coblentz in pursuit
of Buonaparte. With memorable and caustic wit ho left the braggadocia as it
stood, just adding — " Vu et approuvc par nous, Commandant Ivusse de la A'illo

STOLZENFELS.

145

cle Coblence, Janvier ler, 1814." Here also is the monument
to the young and gallant General Marceau, killed at the battle
of Altenkirchen, 1796.

By Coblentz, on a rise of gentle ground,
There is a small and simple pyramid,

Crowning the summit of the verdant mound : ,-

Beneath its base are heroes' ashes hid.
Our enemy's — but let not that forbid
Honour to Marceau ! o'er whose early tomb
Tears, big tears, gush'd from the rough soldier's lid,
Lamenting and yet envying such a doom.
Falling for France, whose rights he battled to resume.

Brief, brave, and glorious was his young career, —
His mourners were two hosts, his friends and foes ;
And fitly may the stranger lingering here
Pray for his gallant spirit's bright repose ;
For he was Freedom's champion, one of those,
The few in number, who had not o'erstept
The charter to chastise which she bestows
On such as wield her weapons ; he had kept
The whiteness of his soul, and thus men o'er him wept."

BVRON.

The excursions from Coblentz are numerous.
Lahnstein, Sayn, the Botanic Garden at Engers,
Laach, Marksburg, all offer their temptations.
The trip to Stolzenfels is
the most attractive for those ~j^
who have but little time to "^"^
spare, but, when leisure will -_j

allow, a trip should be made
up the Moselle to Treves.

Stolzenfels was long in
ruin, and was offered in vain
for sale. Not a purchaser
could be found, though it is

said that less than 20/. would have purchased it ! The people of Coblentz, to whom
it was worthless, gave it to the Crown Prince, now King, of Prussia, who has
restored it — unhappily not in the best or most substantial taste. But the fine
view it offers cannot be spoiled. The hills and the river are God's work ; noble
and beautiful as when they first came from his hand ; — whilst the height on which
the castle stands deserves its title, Stolzenfels — the Proud Rock. It was origin-

al olzenfei^s.

146

THK nillXK noOK.

ally a stronghold of the Archbishops of Treves, and was in good condition until

destroyed by the French in 1688.

The Moselle is almost as charming a river
as the Rhine, and may be' folknved as fjir as
Treves, which stands 90 miles from Coblentz.

" The present year was made memorable in tlic annals of
that city by one of those spectacles more frequent in old
times than at the present day, — the exposition of that most sacred
relic, the Holy Robe of Jesus Chiist, said to be the veritable jiarment
worn at the time of his crucifixion — the seamless garment for which
the soldiers cast lots (John, xix. 23, 24.)-

" This exposition takes place every thirty years, and, as may
well be imagined, the circumstance creates the most lively
tercst, accompanied by an intense religious feelmg
tlie breasts of the numerous pilgrims who visit it.
s most holy relic is placed upon tlie liigh altar of
Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Helen, wliich is richly
dressed for the occasion. It is encased in a
frame covered with plate glass of its own form,
and is surrounded by innumerable candles of
various sizes. The altar is approached by inany
steps on each side, and the picturesque efllct of
_ __ this arrangement is further height-

ened by one or two stejis, at inter-
vals, in the floor, so that the long
line of pilgrims on their way down
the side aisle and up to the altar is
varied by these differences in height.
Twenty thousand pilgrims each day
are said to have paid their devo-
tions to this relic. They come in
processions of hundreds, and some-
times thousands ; are of various
grades, but mostly — indeed, almost
wholly — peasants. The lame, the
l)lind, and the sick are not few in
their ranks, and it is observable
that the majority are women.
They are constantly arriving, pour-
ing in at llie several gates of the city in an almost continual stream, accompanied by priests,
banners, and crosses, and alternately singing and jnaying. They are many of them heavily
laden, tiieir packs on tiieir backs, tiieir bright brass pans, pitchers, and tea-kettles of all shajies in
their hands, or slung on tiieir arms, wiiilo tluir lingers are busily employed with their beads.
Wayworn and footsore, fatigued and liungry, they yet pursue their toilsome march, intent iqxm
the attainiiKiit of tiie one object of tiieir jjiigriniage. It is curious and picturcsi|ue to see their

\ii:;W titOM BXOi-ZENtfiLb.

CHDRCH OF THE HOLY ROBE.

147

long lines of processions in the open country, wending their slow way over the hills, and to hear
their hymns, mellowed by distance into a pleasant sound, across the broad Rhine. There was,
this year, processions from Germany, Belgium, Holland, France, Hungary and even Switzerland

and Italy, and during the whole of their jour-

neys the pilgrims sing and pray almost con-
tinually. The accomplishment of their pil-
grimages entitles them, by payment of a small
offering, to certain absolutions and Indulgences.
The pure-minded peasant girl seeks remission
of sins, the foodless peasant a liberty to eat
what the expenses of this pilgrimage will per-
haps deprive
him of the
means of ob-
taining. The
city was lite-
rally thronged
with them, and
the scene in
I he market-
place at night-
fall was in the
highest degree
interesting and
picturesque.
They stood in
the'midst, sur-
rounded by
buildings of
all ages and

forms, ornamented with figures of saints and warriors in stone, bronze, stucco, and wood carved and
painted. Down every alley and archway is to be seen some venerable morsel of antiquity. Near
the centre is the market fountain, and close by it a curious Saxon cross or pillar of granite, set up
in commemoration of the appearance of a fiery cross, said by tradition to have been seen in the
sky about the year 958. Down the streets before you rises the venerable cathedral, once the
palace of the Empress Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great, and given up by her to
be converted into a house of God, its Byzantine arches of coloured stone giving it the appearance
of an eastern building. Adjoining it is the beautiful early-pointed Gothic church of our Lady.
To the left the more ancient Roman gateway called the Porta Nigra. On all sides, mixed up with
marketable commodities of all colours, booths, and benches, and tables for the sale of rosaries, trinkets,
and pictures of the holy robe, lie on straw, which is strewn for the purpose, the various groups of
pilgrims in all the different costumes of their several countries. Some are still praying, always
aloud; some spreading the frugal meal, or boiling their kettles of brass, or quietly sleeping away
the fatigues of many a mile. On one hand you still hear the sacred chant or the simple hymn,
on the other the more boisterous song of mirth, for the beer-glass and the flask are not wanting
to fill up the measure of variety.

" Six weeks were appointed for the duration of the exposition of the holy robe, but in consequence

OaORCH OF THE HOI.V ROBE, AT IREVES.

148

THE RHINE BOOK.

of the continued and increasing numbers of devotees towards the close of the term, an
week was this year granted.

" The object of all this interest and devotion, the coat without seam of our Saviour, so
is a simple tunic, apparently of linen or
cotton, of a fabric similar to the closely-
woven mummy-cloth of the Egyptians. It
is undoubtedly of very high antiquity. Its
form is precisely that of the modern Arab
frock or tunic, said by the present natives
of Syria to be of the same shape as that
generally worn by all classes from time im-
memorial. Like the modern dress of the
Arabs, its colour appears to have been ori-
ginally blue, though now discoloured by
time to a rust-coloured brown. When not
girded up at the waist, it would reach to
the ancles, the sleeve reaching to the wrist.
Its history, according to Professor Marx,
who has written an elaborate account of it,
a work having the approval of the bishop,
is authenticated as far back as 1157 by
written testimony, it having been mentioned

additional
said to be,

>N OF illK UiH.Y aUlKT AT lUKVhH.

as then existing in the cathedral of Treves, by Frederick I. in a letter addressed to llillcn,
Archbishop of Treves in that year. Its earliest history depends wholly on tradition, which says,
that it was obtained by the Empress Helena in the ycnr 326, while in the Holy Land, whitlier
she went for the cxjjrcss purpose of obtaining relics of our Saviour and his followers; that she

GEOLOGY OF THE RHINE. 149

gave it to the see of Treves, and that it was deposited in the cathedral of that city ; that it was
afterwards lost, having been hidden in disturbed times within the walls of the cathedral, and
rediscovered under the Archbishop John I., in 1196; that it was again hidden for the same
reason, and brought to light, and exposed to the wondering multitude in 1512, on the occasion
of the famous diet of Treves, under the Emperor Maximilian. ' Since this last epoch, says the
author of the work already quoted, ' the history of the Holy Robe has been often discussed, written,
and sung, because it has been often publicly exposed, and at short intervals, whenever political
troubles have not prevented.'"

The Geological Character of this district has recently engaged the atten-
tion of the savans, not only of Germany, but of England. At the British Asso-
ciation a paper on the important additions recently made to the fossil contents of
the Tertiary Basin of the Middle Rhine, was presented by Mr. R. I. Murchison, the
geologist, whose researches in Russia have made him celebrated. After a sketch
of the geographical limits and geological relations of the tertiary deposits which
occupy the valley of the Rhine and Maine, around the towns of Mayence, Frank-
furt, and Darmstadt, Mr. Murchison gave an account of the recent discoveries
made by M. H. von Meyer, M. Kaup of Darmstadt, and M. Braun, of Heidelburg.
Of the animals of this tertiary basin, M. Von Meyer had catalogued, and was pre-
paring for publication, 68 mammifers, 30 reptiles, 13 birds, and 8 batrachians —
nearly all being undescribed species, and most of them of small dimensions.
Amongst the new animals discovered by Mr. Kaup were mentioned the Chalico-
therium, a genus allied to Anoplotherium and Lophiodon ; the Hippotherium
diffeinng from the recent Equus in the possession of an additional metacarpal
bone, and a minute Saurian, named Pisodon Colei. M. Kaup had determined from
an examination of the remains of various species of rhinoceros, tapir, &c., occurring
in this deposit, that the Fauna of the period presented a close affinity to the types
of the Indian and Sumatran archipelago, and were entirely distinct from all known
European mammalia. He had also collected a large series of mastodontoid
remains, which completely proved the vicAvs of Professor Owen, respecting the
identity of the American Tetracavilodon with the true Mastodon. The inver-
tebrata of the deposit have been examined by M. Alexander Braun, and have been
found to comprise 450 species, 303 of which are mollusca, and 103 shells, — of
which ten species only were identical with living forms. Many of the shells
approach closely in form to those in the Calcaire Grossier of Paris, and this cir-
cumstance, together with the occurrence of the Anthracotherium, and of an animal
intermediate between the Anoplotherium and Palasotherium, makes it probable that
the deposit belongs to the same age as the gypsum beds of Montmartre, and the
Ryde and Binsted strata of the Isle of Wight. These tertiary beds are covered
with gravel, sand, and loss, containing ninety-six species of shells, fifty-six of

loO THE RHINE BOOK.

which are terrestrial, and forty fluviatile. Of these, seven belong to species now
living, and nine others are probably varieties of existing species — the most
abundant species are very rare in a living state, whilst those now common are of
unfrequent occurrence in the loss. With the shells are associated the remains of
mammoth, rhinocei'os, tichorinus, &c., the bones of which have evidently received
very little injury from diluvial action ; and from the frequent occurrence of entire
skeletons, Mr. Murchison infers that these superficial deposits were formed by
very tranquil operations, and that the great mammalia inhabited tracts innnedi-
ately adjacent to the spots where they are now entombed. Mr. Owen at the same
meeting stated, that the Mastodon of the Mayence basin was identical with the
species found in the Norwich Crag, which was likewise a fluvio-marine deposit.
He had not seen any bones in the English tertiary or drift which could be distin-
guished from the ordinary horse or zebra, excepting a few teeth, which were more
curved than usual, and might jjossibly have belonged to the Hippotherium.

There has just died at Coblentz, in the prison, called tlie Convent of the Carmelites, a man
known by the name o( the old Frenchman icith the ivhite heard, confined there 32 years, of which 28
were voluntary. In 1811, a soldier of the 20th regiment of French dragoons was discovered
asleep, with his head on his knapsack, in the forest of Coblentz, and taken up as a deserter. He
declared his name to be Antonio Alivera, a native of Aosta, in Piedmont, and that he had received
his discharge, with a jjension of 200 fr. a year, from being subject to fits of mental alienation. Tlie
authorities left him tem))orarily in prison. There he remained until the allied troops entered
Coblentz, 1814, when an order was given to send him and others to a depot of French prisoners.
This he strongly protested against, declaring that he was not a F'rench prisoner, but an Italian
discliarged from the service. In the course of the next year his father and uncle arrived, and
obtained his liberation, and took him with them on their way home. At a little distance from
Coblentz, he suddenly quitted them and returned to the prison, requesting permission to be allowed
to resume his former quarters. This was allowed, with full lil)erty granted him to go out when lie
pleased. Notwithstanding this permission, he never left his cell for 28 years, and during that
period never asked for light or fire, no matter how severe might be the cold. He spent his time
in making hair rings, ivory thimbles, box paper-cutters, and other little objects, which he sold to
strangers who came to see him. He was 71 years old at his death; and having never cut his
beard, which was very long, and of exceeding whiteness, and being of lofty stature, he had a most
venerable appearance. He died worth 1 100 tlialers (about 4000 fr.) which he had saved during his
imprisonment.

..-ri*--:-...

COBLENTZ.

151

INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER.

1 <'hurch of St. Castor.

2 Kvangelical Chunh.
o (iovernioent Offices.

4 Timber jard of fortress.

5 Victualling Offices.
G Palace.

7 Post Office.

8 Theatre.

9 Commander's f Iffice.
10 General-in-Chief's Office.
H Ancient House of the Teutonic Order.

COBLENTZ,

HOTELS.

Belle Vue.

Gt'ant.

Trois Suisses.

Frierischer.

Kolnlsclier.

Pariser.

Cheval Blanc (at Ehrenbreitstein).

CHIEF THINGS TO BE SEEN AT COBLENTZ,

Ehrenbreitstein.

Monument to General Hoche.

Monument erected by the French in 1812.

The street facing the Moselle is very pic-
turesque, and contains the Town Hall and
ancient castle of the Electors of Treves.

The Church of St. Castor, (a. d. 836.); on
this spot the sons of Charlemagne met to divide
his empire into Italy, France, and Germany ;
and here also, in 1338, Edward III. of England
was installed vicar of the empire.

New palace of the Electors, now used as the
Palace of Justice.

Large cellars under the Convent of the
Jesuits.

152

THE RHINE BOOK

CoBLENTZ is a strongly fortified town on the
right bank of the Rhine ; it is built on a triangle
formed by the confluence of the Rhine and
Moselle ; its population, including that of
Ehrenbreitstein, together with the garrison, is
about 21,500. A bridge of boats connects
Coblentz with Thai Ehrenbreitstein ; the Thai,
or valley, joins the mountain, on which stands
the magnificent fortress of the same name.

The city of Coblentz was much enlarged
between the years 1 779 and 1 787 ; the more
ancient part received the name of the " old
town," and the modern that of the " new town ; "
there are some good streets in the old town, but
the houses generally are ill-built ; it, however,
contains many fine antique edifices. The house
now occupied by government was formerly the
palace of Treves.

An old Dominican convent now converted
into barracks; the Hotel Von der Leyden, the
Sub Governor's residence ; the palace Boos
Waldeck, occupied by the Chief President ; (a
curious antique head is to be seen under the
clock in the old market of St. Florian) — and the
Church of St. Castor, in the new town ; the
modern palace of the Electors, converted by
the French into barracks, but now used as a
Palace of Justice and Court of Assizes, are the
principal buildings. The new town faces the
Rhine on one side above the bridge of boats ;
the other side is towards the Great Square,
where parade is held with a military band,
between twelve and one o'clock daily.

The Casino is a fine place of architecture;
it contains a ball-room and reading-rooms with
prettily laid- out gardens.

The vaults or cellars under the old Convent
of Jesuits are often visited ; tlicy are of vast
extent.

The beautiful situation of Coblentz annually
attracts thousands of visitors ; many families,
particularly English, have lately made it a
winter's residence ; provisions of every descrip-

tion are abundant, very good and reasonable.
Very recently (1840), the Prussian Government
have liberally appropriated a building for tlie
solemnisation of divine service according to the
rites of the Churcli of England. The Prussian
Government are in all respects very liberal to
strangers.

Coblentz is beautifully situated ; either ap-
proached by land or water, it presents a lovely
picture ; there are also many interesting spots in
the environs which afford pleasing excursions;
the following are amongst the most agreeable : —
the castle Stolzenfels, on the road to Maycnce, is
one of the most picturesque and imposing feudal
ruins on the Rhine, placed on the rock called
the Proud Rock; it was presented to the Crown
Prince of Prussia by the people of Coblentz,
who devotes a certain sum annually to its
repairs, and it is now almost restored to all its
former magnificence.

The village and chateau of Sayn.

The botanic garden at Engers.

The Lake of Laach, beautifully situated. At
the opposite extremity of the lake is the ])ic-
turesque, but deserted Abbey of Laach, origi-
nally a Benedictine convent, but during the
French revolution suppressed, and now converted
into a farm.

The castle of Elz.

Neuwied, and the castle of INIarksburg. .Ml
of these are pleasant excursions from Coblentz.

From the hill of the Chartreuse most exten-
sive views are obtained ; it derives its name
from an old convent tiiat formerly stood there,
in the place of which now stand the fine Forts
of Constantine and Alexander.

It is almost as high as Ehrenbreitstein, which
citadel is seen to great advantage from this
point ; on the verge of the hill, on one side, is
seen the Rhine with the fortified heights of
Pfaffendorf ; on the other, at the foot of the
heights, is the river Moselle.

TlHi RHINE ABOVK COBLENTZ.

153

COBLENTZ TO MAYBNCE.

BOPPART

Above Coblentz the
Rhine contracts in width,
the mountains rise more
precipitously from its banks,
the ruined castles are
more frequent, and the
whole aspect of the river
calls forcibly to mind the
feudal ages. Niederlahn-
stein presents the ruins of
the ancient Church of St.
John, and above it the
Castle of Lahneck; Ober-
lahn stein may be recog-
nised by the red castle of
the Electors of Mayence.

Above the small village of Rhense was the Konigstuhl ;
a spot equally near to the dominions of all the Electors, and :;^^

selected by them as their place of rendezvous for the settle-

ment of the affairs of the empire. Many laws have ema- ^=^ -^—SJ^oi
nated thence, many treaties have there been signed, and many
emperors been elected and dethroned. — The small town of Brau-
bach is indicated by a tall pointed rock, on which is perched the i
castle of INIarksburg, a stronghold still in an admirable state of
preservation, and affording a very perfect specimen of the feudal
castle of the middle ages with its towers, passages, winding stairs,
and dungeons. — The villages of Niedex'spey and Oberspey, and the
castle and village of Osterspey, are passed, and then Boppart is
approached, with its convent of Marienburg, its Roman remains,
its Church with twin spires, and its highly picturesque streets, full of " bits " for
the study of the antiquary, the artist, and the man of taste. Sulzig, the next
village, is noted for its orchards ; and nearly opposite to it are the ruins
of the castles of Sternberg and Liebenstein, more often called the Brothers,
from the legend connected with them. This tale is always told to the stranger as
he passes the spot, and he is ever expected to admire the stern virtue of the one
knight, and to lament the weakness of the other.

1.)-

TIIK RIIlXi: nooK.

THE BROTHFP.S^

Bif 33ruticr.

lEBENSTEiN, when in its glory, was the abode of a happy
family — a father, two sons, and a young female ward.
The father was a venerable knight, who in his youth had
done good service in the cause of chivalry, and on the field
of battle had taken charge of the only daughter of a dying
comrade. As years flew on the old man regarded the child
thus bequeathed to him with feelings of increased aftection,
whilst she — young, rich, and beautiful — was an object of
general admiration. AVhat wonder, then, that almost un-
known to themselves, both her foster-brothers should love her, and that this
love should grow up with their growth, and strengthen with their strength, until
it became a i)assion absorbing both their souls. The experienced eye of the
father was the first to discover the fatal secret, and when he contemplated the
opposite characters of his children, he felt ill at ease. The eldest was thoughtful,
cautious, firm in his resolves, and bitter in his resentment ; the youngest was rash,
impetuous, and changeable ; but both were brave, and fond of resolving ail

LEGEND OF " THK BUOTHERS." 155

differences by the general umpire of the times they lived in — the sword. After
much consideration he called his sons before him, and reminding them that they
were brothers, told them what he knew of their feelings, and asked for their
resolve. The young Edith he said loved both as a sister, but would love one to
wedlock if the other was away, — they could not both win her, and one must
sacrifice his feelings to the happiness of his mistress, and his brother.

The scene that followed his words was touching, but short. The youngest son
displayed an agony of grief, and tore his hair, and called in tones of supplication
to his elder brother to think of his sufferings if driven from the sight of her who
was his heart's only happiness. With a noble self-denial this passionate appeal
was answered by three words, " Brother, I go," and next morning saw the young
Henry von Beyen on his way to the Holy Wars.

Time flew on, and the nuptials of Edith with Conrad were approaching when news
arrived from Palestine of wonders of bravery achieved by the youthful Crusader.
The father's heart beat high when listening to the tale of the prowess of his noble
son ; but the brow of Conrad became gloomy as the praises were repeated, and,
unwilling that his brother, who had been conquered in love, should be most glorious
in war, the bridegroom forsook the side of his affianced to join the Crusaders. Thus
left alone the young Edith languished, and her foster-f\itlier, after long waiting for
the return of his sons, pined and died, leaving unfinished the towers of Sternberg,
which he had raised as a home for his young ward and her husband.

Meantime rumours reached the castle of Liebenstein of Conrad's boistex'ous
gaieties and carelessness to return, and these flying stories were strengthened by
the return of Henry at the conclusion of the war without his brother. When
asked by Edith particulars of their career, he ever extolled the bravery of the
absentee, and held silence of all else; whilst his conduct towards her was ever that
which a sister should receive.

Still they waited Henry's return, when on a summer evening there was a sound
of music approaching Sternberg, and it was soon discovered to be the long-absent
Crusader approaching his home. Joyfully the vassals went forth to meet him,
and Edith was already standing on the di'awbridge anxious to receive her lover,
when the news came tliat Conrad ivas not alone; — he had brought with him a
young and beautiful Greek wife!

Edith was stricken dumb by the perfidy; Henry was at first astonished, and then
enraged. That night he sent a challenge to the new comer to answer with his sword
the injustice and insult to his love. At midnight they met, but had no time even to
speak of the cause of quarrel when the forsaken Edith, who had gained intelligence
of the intended meeting, threw herself between them. " As you once loved me,
Conrad; as you ever nobly loved me, Henry, I forbid this. Let no blood be
spilled for me. To-morrow I enter a convent, and devote myself to God. Nay !

156

TUE RHINE BOOK.

no words, I have a vow : and my prayers shall be given for yonr happiness,
and that you may both live in brotherhood and peace together."

Three years more worked out the tragedy. P>dith died in a neiglibouring
nunnery — but not before the gay young Greek wife had brought dishonour on the
head of Conrad, and to avoid his anger had forsaken him for a new lover. Tke
Brothers obeyed the injunction of the dead nun, and dwelt in peace ; but it was
scarcely three years before the half-finished towers of Sternberg were left to ruin
by the death of their owner, Conrad, and soon afterwards the closed gates of
Liebenstein told that the vital spirit of their lord — the last of his race — had
departed. Fi-om that day to this the ruins of Die Briider tell to all who journey
by the Rhine the sad story of misery and death which there became the penalty
of False Love.

'he village of Kes-
tert is known by
the ruins of an
old church with
a huge rock op-
posite, the base of which
is clothed with vines and
the summit with trees.
Facing an island passed
l)y the steamer stands
llirzenach with its ancient
priory, formerly owned by
the abbey of Sieburg, now
surrounded by the huts
of vine dressers. Ehreii-
thul is noted for its mines,
some of which yield silver: Welmich is distinguished by a gothic tower, and has
picturesque envii-ons, with the ruins of the fortress uf Thurmbcrg bcliind tiie village.
The castle of Kheinlels, though now in ruins, is, after P^hrenbreitstein, the most
imposing structui-e on the Rliine. In the old days, Count Katzenellenbogen, (a
capital name for a German robber,) posted himself in this strongliold, and levied
toll so cruelly ui)on all j)assers-by, both on land and water, that the towns on the
Rliine joined their strength together to abate the tyranny and injustice. Under
the name of the Confederation of the Ixhine they besieged, eonipiered, and dis-
mantled Rheinfels ; and then, elated l)y their victory, marched down upon, and
destroyed, the fortresses of many baronial freebooters, whose exactions had long
tormented the country.

BIHZKN AOU.

EXCURSIONS ROUND ST. GOARHAUSEN.

157

St. Goar, Rheinfels, the
Castle of the Cat, and St.
: J Goarhausen, lyiug near to-
gether, should induce the
Traveller to tarry awhile at
this point. Should he do so,
he will find himself amidst
the most glorious scenery,
with scope for charming
excursions on all sides.
He may visit the ruins of
Rheinfels ; may attend the
church founded by St. Goar,
who first preached Chris-
tianity to the inhabitants of
this spot ; may call up the
echoes of the Lurleyburg,
which slumber near, or, wandering along the banks of the stream by moonlight,
may listen for the song of Undine — the nymph who dwells in the whirlpool, and

THE RHi;;

t HIRZENACH.

-■".Oi.lIiADSEN, AND THF CAT'S CASTLE.

whose ver}' name scares the boatman as he passes the dangerous rapids in this

158

THE RHINK BOOK.

Stretch of the Ehine. Crossing the

stream to St. Goarhausen he may traverse

the Swiss Valley ; may climb to the very

brow of the Lurleyburg ; may examine

the traces of Moorish ar-

cliitecture amidst the ruins

of the castle of Reichen-

berg ; and enjoy at every

turn of his way the most

varied and striking stretches

of scenery. If his rambles

are in vacation time, he

will doubtless meet some of

the German students who

with pack on back and

book in hand pass their

holiday from the classes in

studying the nat ural features

of "the Fatherland." He

will do well to note the love

of country which marks the

character of the Burschen,

and if he be of jovial habits,

and can enjoy the language,

^°'"'''^- he may break a bottle ol'

the Rhine wine with the first student party he meets ; may learn how they can

drink and smoke ; and may perchance be favoured with a few specimens of the

33urscf)£n ^ongs.

A student free I wander here

Along the banks of classic Rhine,
And legends old — now gay, now drear.
Companions are of mine.
A Burschen bold — I tread the strand,
The river of my Fatherland.

I pass'd beneath the Drachenfels,

And Ehrenl)reitstein met my sight ;
A gush of pride my bosom swells
When dreaming of its might.
A Burschen true — I i)roudly stand
'Mid bulwarks of my FatherlancL

OBERWESEL,

159

Still as I go, the waters bright

Reflect the ruins hoar
Where Marxburgh and where Bacharack
Call back the days of yore.
When chieftain bold and trusty band
Sway'd the fate of the Fatherland.

The love of the Germans for the Rhine is proverbial over P^urope, and this
feeling appears to have been felt for ages past as strongly as it Avas on the
memorable New Year's Night when Blucher passed the river in 1814.

The Warrior Knight from Holy Land with fame and spoil has come.
And he bares his brow, and he bends his knee, as he nears his river home ;
He thinks no more of the Siroc's heat, or the dangers of Palestine,
But is fiU'd with fullest joy again, as he once more sees the Rhine.

" The Rhine ! the Rhine ! the beautiful ! once more I tread thy strand,

The stream of streams, the only lov'd, stream of my Fatherland.

" The Nile breathes of its Pyramids — of glories sad, but vast;

And the Ganges through a thousand spots of beauty bright has pass'd ;

The Tiber in its turbid flood still tells of olden Rome,

And Danube rolls its hasty stream by many a happy home :

But the Rhine is the most beautiful — more dear to me the strand

Of the stream of streams, the only lov'd, stream of the F"atherland."

BERWESEL with itS

picturesqne round
tower is seen on
the left bank (on
the right as the river is
ascended), with its large
church, built by Archbishop
Baldwin of IVeves, which
has a richly decorated Gothic
interior and many curious
carvings and monuments.
The chapel seen near the
wall of the town, and not far
from the river, is named after
Werner, a youth, who is
said by tradition to have
been kidnapped by the Jews
and crucified, — a tale told in
many countries as an excuse
for cruel persecutions and shameless spoliation of the scattered tribes of Israel.

OBERWESEL

IGO

Till-; raiiNE 1!Ook.

lo SCHONBERG, DOW SCCIl ill

ruins, there came, in its days
of pi'ide, many cavaliers to
seek the love of seven beau-
tiful maiden sisters who
dwelt there ; but tlie ladies' hearts w^ere
full of scorn in place of love, and suitor
after suitor retired in despair. At
length, however, many knights happened
to be together at the castle ; and, gather-
ing courage from good company, they had the hardihood to reproach the damsels
for their cruelty, and urge them to give no further pain to knightly breasts, by
choosing from the noble company then present those whom they thought most
worthy to be their husbands. With a loud laugh at the temerity of their guests,
they promised to do so, on condition that all the counts, barons, and noble cava-
liers would assemble in their gayest attire in the great hall of the castle next
day at sunrise. At that hour they agreed that all should know their fate.

Never before liad tlie dawn glanced through the painted windows of the hall to
throw a rich light upon a more glittering company than met together next morning.
Casques, and plumes, and golden-hilted swords were there in plenty ; and patiently
did their owners rest, hour after hour, thinking the maidens late, but still hoping
eacli to be able, when one of them was his own, to teach her more care for his
wishes. Suddenly the loud laugh of over-night was heard outside the window ;
and, looking forth, behold the seven sisters seated in a boat, leaving the castle,
and, as they sailed down the stream, waving their hands in mockery of the jilted
company. Loud was the wrath, and louder the oaths (for knights' oaths were often
as heavy as their swords), when — in a moment — their anger was stayed. The boat
staggered in her course. Intent upon their cruel jest, the helm was unheeded ; and
the frail vessel trembled a moment in its struggle with the waters, as thougli some
demon had hold upon its keel, and then sunk. For a moment their white dresses
were seen upon the surface, and for a moment their loud screams for lulp were
heard upon the shore, — then all was hushed. From that hour seven rot-ks mark
the spot which the boatmen name The Seven Sistehs ; and he is a bold man,
and need be a sound Ciiiistian and good helmsman, who would dare pass tliem
after sunset ; for the stony points are cunningly hidden beneath the surlace, and
woe to the bark that nears them ! It is said, too, that a delicious voice is some-
times heard, like that of the Lurley, luring the ear and chaining the spirit, till
the hapless listener is within reach of the fatal power which seeks liis destruc-
tion.

BACHARACII.

161

FALZ, Caub, and Gutenfels, are all points of interest, and come quickly-
one after another upon the eye. It was in the curious castle of the
Pfalz, in the centre of the stream, says tradition, that the wives of the
Counts Palatine came for safety when about to bless their lords with
an heir: it was at Caub that Blucher crossed the Rhine: and Guten-
fels, whose ruins stand above the town, received its name from the beautiful
Guda, whose love was sought by Richard of Cornwall, Emperor of Germany,
and brother to Henry III. of England. Here, also, toll is still paid to the Duke of
Nassau for free passage up or down the stream, he being the only potentate who
is now allowed to levy such a tax. Time was when upwards of thirty such
charges were enforced, each owner of a stronghold asserting a right to pillage the
voyager so soon as he came within reach.

Sli^Ki^i i:i BA^UARACH.

ACHARACH is full of antique buildings, and is surrounded by ancient

walls and watch-towers. It is said to gain its name from Bacchus — a

tale which deserves to be true on account of the excellence of its wines.

These were so good in times gone by, that it is said Pope Pius the

Second (and Popes are all known to be excellent judges) annually sent for a tun of

it for his own drinking ; and that the Emperor Wenzel Avas bribed into granting

162

THE RHINE BOOK.

l^OKCH&USEK.

their freedom to the citizens
of Nuremburg in return for
four casks of the delicious
liquor. At this day it is the
greatest wine mart on the
Rhine, with the single ex-
ception of Cologne. The
high ground above Bacharach
is crowned by the ruins of
Stahleck, passing which the
Traveller is greeted by the
towers of Nollingen and by
the village of Lorchausen,
and soon afterwards by the
round tower and crumbling
This stronghold was dis-

walls of Furstenburg, which rise above Rheindiebach.

mantled by the French in 1689.

LoRCH is an antique and quiet town, comfortably ensconced in the opening of

the valley of the Wisperthal.
It is near here that the i^re-
cipitous mountain of Ke-
drich raises its head aloft,
but whose steepness was no
proof against the steps of the
Evil One, who rode up its
side on horseback one night,
and left behind him some
marks still pointed out as
The Devil's Ladder. The
same feat was afterwards
performed by a young knight.
Sir Hilchen von Lorch, who,
with the help of a few kind
fairy friends, scaled the
height to rescue his ladye-
love, held in duresse upon
the summit by some spiteful
gnomes. The Rheingau
commences at Lorch ; and,
as we pass it, the castles be-

ilUKlNUlKUACU.

LEGEND OF BISHOP HATTO.

163

come more and more nume-
rous. Fursteneck is rapidly
succeeded by Heimburg, Son-
neck, Reichenstein or Fal-
kenburg, and Rheinstein. The
last has been restored, and
is filled with antique furni-
ture, made after the fashion
of "the days of chivalry,"
which the passing Traveller
may see by asking admission
at its gates — a favour rea-
dily granted by the schloss-
voght. The village of Ass-
manshausen, which stands on
the left (as the stream is
ascended), is another birth-
place of the Rhine wine ; and
a little higher up the stream
stands Ehrenfels, an old castle
of the Archbishops of May-
ence ; and the Mouse Tower,
with its Legend of Bishop
Hatto, versified by Southey :

Ct)c Hcflnttf of W^ta.

The summer and autumn had been so wet,
That in winter the corn was growing yet ;
'Twas a piteous sight to see all around.
The grain lie rotting on the ground.

Every day the starving poor
Crowded around Bishop Hatto's door.
For he had a plentiful last year's store ;
And all the neighbourhood could tell
His granaries were furnish'd well.

At last Bishop Hatto appointed a day
To quiet the poor without delay :
He bade thera to his great barn repair,
And they should have food for the winter
there.

Rejoic'd at such tidings good to hear,
The poor folk flock'd from far and near ;
The great barn was full as it could hold
Of women and children, and young and old.

Then when he saw it could hold no more.
Bishop Hatto he made fast the door ;
And while for mercy on Christ they call.
He set fire to the barn, and burnt them all.

RBEINSreiN

" r faith 'tis an excellent bonfire ! " quoth he,
" And the country is greatly oblig'd to me,
For ridding it, in these times forlorn,
or rats that only consume the corn."

So then to his palace returned he.

And he sat down to supper merrily.

And he slept that night like an innocent man ;

But Bishop Hatto never slept again.

164

THE RHINE BOOK.

ASSMASSHAUSEN.

Ill the morning as he enter'd the li.ill
Where his picture hung against the wall,
A sweat lil4e death all o'er him came,
For the rats had eaten it out of the frame.

As he look'd there came a man from his

farm.
He had a countenance white with alarm.
" My Lord, I open'd your granaries this

morn.
And the rats had eaten all your corn."

Another came running presently.

And he was pale as jiale could lie :

" Fly ! my lord liisliop, fly," quoth he.

" Ten thousand rats are coming this way.

The Lord forgive you for yesterday ! "

'■ I'll go to my tower on the Rhine," re-
plied he,

" 'Tis tlie safest place in Germany ; ^ig

The walls are high, and the shores are

steep, —

.\nd the stream is strong, and the water
del p."

Bishop Hatto fearfully hasten'd away.
And he cross'd the Uhine witlioiit dflay.
And reach'd his tower, and hirr'il witli care
All the windows, doors, and loop-holes
there.

Me laid him down, and clos'd his eyes ;
But soon a scream made him arise ;
He started, and saw two eyes of Hame
On his pillow, from whence the screaming
came.

BINGEN.

165

He listen'd and look'd : it was only the

cat ;
But the bishop he grew more fearlul lor

that.
For she sat screaming, mad with fear
At the army of rats that were drawing near.

For they have swam over the river so deep.
And they have climb'd the shores so steep,
And now by thousands up they crawl
To the holes and windows in the wall.

Down on his knees the bishop fell.
And faster and faster his beads did he tell.
As louder and louder drawing near.
The saw of their teeth without he could
hear.

And in at the windows, and in at the door,
And through the walls by thousands they

pour.
And down through the ceiling, and up

through the floor.

From the right and the left, from behind

and before,
From within and without, from above and

below ;
And all at once to the bishop they go.

They have whetted their teeth against thfi

stones.
And now, they pick the bishop's bones ;
They gnaw'd the flesh from every limb,
For they were sent to do judgment on

him. SoUTHEY.

BRIDGE OVER THE NAHE. KEAR BtMGEiJ.

Near the Mouse Tower, the river Nahe falls into the Rhine ; near it also is the

166

THE RHINE BOOK.

Bingenloch, where the stream has been deepened, — a fact recorded on a small
obelisk seen upon the shore.

Bingen is a place to stop at for a day or more. Its environs are full of beauty,
and the town itself has many points worthy of attention. On the summit of a
hill stands the chapel of St. Rock, a spot visited on the 1 6th of August, the day
of that saint, by thousands of pilgrims. Goethe has described the scene presented
on that day, and in memory of his visit to the town presented to the chapel the
altar-piece that now adorns it. " It is very evident, " says Dr. Schreiber, " that
the ridge of mountains near Bingen was formerly obstructed by rocks, which
opposed a sort of dyke to the waters of the Rhine, and gave rise to the formation
of an extensive lake between Ladenburg, Spire, Mannheim, Mayence, Grossgerau,
and Pfungstadt. This mass of water having risen over the dyke fell with im-
petuosity to the bottom of the precipice, and it was not till after many ages that
the river effected a free passage, the rocks being then broken by the violence of
the current, or more probably, in consequence of one of those grand revolutions of
nature which sometimes take place."

nncESBBIM.

RUDESHEIM.

167

RuDESHEiM is alike renowned for wines and ruins — for the comforts of the
present and the memories of the past. The town is the centre of a vineyard, the
grapes being grown in great profusion near it, owing to the favourable nature of
the locality — a secret discovered, it is said, by Charlemagne, who, remarking the
rapid disappearance of the snow in the slopes about Rudesheim, declared his belief
that fine wine might be grown there. Sending to France for some plants, they
were placed in the earth, and have ever since yielded a grape worthy of their
parentage — a grape still called Orleans. From this town the Tourist may make
a pleasant excursion to the Niederwald, having first given his attention to the
history of Rudesheim, once the seat of an Imperial Court held in the Nieder
Burg, and scanned its four ancient castles. Of these, one belonged for a time to
Prince Metternich, who, however, sold it to Count Ingelheim, its present pos-
sessor ; another is picturesquely posted at the upper part of the town, and still
retains some curious relics of the Bromser family, its old possessors. A tradition
still exists telling how Hans Bromser, being taken captive in Jerusalem, made a
vow to Heaven that if released he would dedicate his only daughter to the service
of the church. Gaining his liberty soon afterwards, he returned to the Rhine, to
find the child he had left when he started for the Crusades grown to womanhood ;
and he learned also that, secure of her father's sanction, she had betrothed herself

NEAR MAYENCE.

168

THE RHINE BOOK.

to a youthful knight. Love and duty struggled in the maiden's heart when she
was told of the vow ; but in her young bosom love was strongest, and she begged
her parent to relent ; but in the hasty bitterness of his spirit he launched at her
young head a father's curse if she dared to mai-ry. Driven by despair she fled to
the highest rock on the bank, and plunged headlong into the Rhine, down which
her dead body floated as far as the Mouse Tower ; and the old gossips of the
neighbourhood, when tliey hear that the stream is troul)k'd thereabouts, shake
their heads, and sigh, " It is the uneasy spirit of Bromser's daughter wrestling
with the dreadful fate her father drove her to."

Passing Rudesheim a fine view of the Rhine presents itself. Nearly opposite
to that town is the village of Kempten, seated at the foot of the Rochersberg.
The steamer leaves the high banks behind, and in succession passes Geissenheim, —
Johannisberg, with its fine vines, the property of Prince Metternich, — the villages
of Winkel, Mittelheim, and Oestrich, — EUfekl, and its Gothic towers, — ^Valluff,
"the gate of the Rheingau," — Budenheim with its ferry, — Scheirstein, "the
orchard of the Rheingau," — and Bieberich. Here the Duke of Nassau has a palace
and a garden, which the visitor is allowed to enjoy. Mayence is now rapidly
approached, and the Traveller, as he nears that city of Gutemburg, has leisui-e to
reflect upon the character of the scenery of the Rhine he has now left behind him,
and to resolve what portions of it he will make further acquaintance with.

HEIDELBURG.

169

The Trouba-
dours made May-
ence their head
quarters, and
irom its walls
they issued to
sing the deeds of
knighthood, and
to spread far and
wide the fame of
beauty ; and at
Mayence Gut-
temburg first
completed the
printing press.
Henry Frauen-
the most celebrated of the
Minnesingers, has a tomb in the
cathedral, to which his body was borne by
the women of Mayence. Guttemburg has
a statue in the market-place, raised to his
memory three centuries after his death
by the contributions of scholars in all

r-^-sTs

parts of Europe.
The Traveller must
visit these two me-
morials of poetry /,^,^j
and learning, and in W^^
searching them out
will see both the inte-
rior and the exterior
of the ancient cathe-
dral of the city, and cannot fail to
be struck by the mingled styles of
architecture it displays. He may
also seek the stone of Drusus, and

170

THE RHINE BOOK.

view the ramparts ; and afterwards see the Teutonic House, where Napoleon for
a short time resided.

At Mayence the Tourist has to decide (if he has not previously done so) whither
he wiU journey next. Frankfurt, vStrasbourg, Baden, and many other points offer
their attractions. Two places, however, he should visit ere he returns down the
stream — Heidelburg by way of Mannheim, and Wiesbaden. The former of
these towns has a sj^lendid ruin overhanging the Neckar, and a tun memorable
throughout the world for its capacity, being capable of containing two hundred and
eighty three thousand bottles ! it is thii-ty-three feet long, and 24 feet in diameter :
— the latter offers an excellent idea of the Spas of Germany.

Heidelburg (grand duchy of Baden) is delightfully situated at the entrance of the valley of the
Neckar, and the beginning of the Bergstrasse, so much and so deservedly extolled. It contains
12,635 inhabitants, exclusive of the students ; it has suffered much from the horrors of war ; twice
it was reduced to ashes, with the exception of one house, which still remains, and gives some
idea of its former splendour, by the richly decorated facade, ornamented with statues, coats of
arms, &c. : it is now an inn, called Ziitn Ritter, from the figure of a knight on the top ; the
house stands in the Market-place.

The principal curiosities of Heidelberg are the Castle, which is one of the finest ruins in
Germany, and commanding extensive views of the valley below. It is also highly interesting from
its varied fortunes, its truly picturesque situation, and the relics which still remain of ancient
grandeur, and architectural magnificence. It has three times been set on fire, once by lightning,
and twice during war. One part cannot fail to be interesting to the traveller, from
its having been built for the reception of the daughter of James I., the princess Elizabeth
Stuart, and the grand-daughter of the beautiful but unfortunate Mary, Queen of Scots. It
is called the English Palace, and was, with tlie triumphal arch, erected by her husband, tlie
Elector Frederick V., afterwards King of Bohemia, in celebration of their nuptials.

-f^._v.'.-* *^*

1 111-, lilt ll>(i.LMUKO TON.

MATENCE.

171

INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER.

1 Cathedral.

2 Theatre.

3 Statue of Guttemburg,

4 Com IMagazine.

5 Town Hall.

6 Palace of Justice.

7 Arsenal.

8 Teutonic House.

9 Palace (now a warehouse.)
10 Library.

11 Government Offices.

12 Post Office.

13 Office Cologne Steamers.

14 Office DusseldorfT Steamers.

MAYENCE.

Rhine.

Angleterre.
Hollandischer.

HOTELS.

The Teutonic House, once the abode of
Napoleon.

The Public Gardens.
The Tower of Drusus.

CHiEr THINGS TO BE SEEx IX MAVEXCE. | Mayence Is the itiost important town in the

The Cathedral (a. d. 978.), and the tombs i territory of the Grand Duke of Hesse-Darm-

witliin it. stadt, and the strongest fortress of the German

The Museum, formerly the palace of the Confederation. It is garrisoned by Prussian

Electors. and Austrian troops, commanded by a governor

172

TUE KHIXK BOOK.

elected alternately from both nations for a
certain period of years. IVIayence is situated
on the left bank of the Rhine, in a rich and
fertile country ; it is connected by a bridge of
boats with the stronj;ly fortified faubourg of
Cassel. Tlie population of ^Mayence is about
31,200 ; the garrison consists of 8000 men.

The venerable Cathedral, in the centre of the
town, has suffered much from conflagrations,
from the being bombarded by the Prussians, and
afterwards from having been used by the French
as a magazine and barrack ; a very small portion
of the original structure now remains ; the
interior contains many remarkable monuments.

Mayence also contains a Museum of paintings,
and many curious antiquities found in the
neighbourhood ; a monument to Gutemburg ;
a public library ; and a new and handsome
theatre. The old Roman tower of Drusus,
said to be the tomb of Drusus, deserves to be
visited on account of the fine view it commands
from the top.

Outside the fortifications are some public
gardens, from which a beautiful view of the
town and the surrounding country is obtained.
The military Austrian and Prussian bands play
here. They also play every day on parade
during the summer months.

The gates of the town are shut at 10 o'clock,
and are only opened to those who travel by
eilwayen or extra-post.

Wiesbaden is eight miles distant from iMay-
ence ; a railroad is now in full operation.

Railway to Frankfurt in one hour and a
half: — to Wiesbaden in a quarter of an hour.

EXCURSIONS FROM MAYENCE.

Miles.
Fare Is. to Wiesbaden (Railway) - 6

Fare 3s. 6d. to Frankfurt ditto - - 22

to Mannheim - - . 46^

The best route to Heidelburg is by steam-boat
to Mannheim, and thence by railway.

UANSMKIU.

MANNHEIM.

173

INTERCHAPTERS FOR THE TRAVELLER.

1 Palace.

2 Church of the Jesuits.

3 Observatory.

4 Theatre.

5 Arsenal,

6 New Barracks.

7 Town Warehouse.

8 Lutheran Church.

9 Protestant Church.

10 Lyceum.

1 1 Courts of Law.

12 Cabinet of Fine Arts.

13 Market.

14 Botanical Garden.
13 Public School.

16 Court of Chancery.

17 Government Office.

18 House of Correction.

J9 Picture Gallery.
20 Corn Market.
5?1 Neue Planken.

22 Straw Market.

23 Bath.

MANNHEIM.

HOTELS.

De 1' Europe.
Pfalzer.
Rheinischer.
Russischer.

Mannheim is a large and handsome town in
the territory of the grand duchy of Baden ; it is
situated on the left bank of the Rhine. For-
merly it was a strong fortress, and in consequence

has been exposed to various sieges ; twice it
has been burnt to ashes by the French and
Austrians.

The chief point of attraction at Mannheim
is the society formed by the amiable Grand
Duchess and her Court. Many English have
taken up their residence here chiefly on that
account. The Palace is a large red structure ;
a part of it is occupied by the Grand Duchess ;
one wing is appropriated for the Museum, and

174

THK RHIVE BOOK.

another, wliich contained the Theatre, was
burnt by the Austrians, and is still in ruins.
The gardens of the Palace overlook the Rhine,
and form a delightful promenade.

In the environs are some private gardens
situated on the banks of the river Neckar,
which add much to the beauty of Mannheim.

The Theatre is good, and its orchestra is not
to be surpassed in this part of Germany.

The church of the Jesuits is generally
visited.

The gardens Schwetzingen are about 9 miles

from Mannheim, and can be visited on the way
to Heidelburg.

There are diligences daily to Carlsruhe,
Heidelburg, Frankfurt, and Mayence.

Mannheim is remarkable for its cleanliness,
and contains about 20,630 inhabitants. In
summer this city presents a bustling appearance
from the immense number of travellers who
disembark here from the steam-packets; most
of them remain a day or two to view the town,
the gardens, and the environs.

--^■

'- ;: .xr^

-Miiife^^- ^

V^^

:\\uii

WlKHHAnKN.

1 Palacp of the DuVc.

•2 I.ihrrin.

3 KursHiil.

i Colonnade.

.O 'J'hcatre.

fi Hoiliiie Sprlnjj.

7 Four Sf.xsons' hotel.

8 Wilhehti StrasfiO.
!) Frie<lriih Strassc.

10 Luiscn Sirasse.

1 1 Schwalliarhcr Strasse.

12 Nero Stras-sc.

13 Taiinus Stra.s*e.

14 Nacli dein (u-islfprp.

l/i RtcinRasse.
Ifi Am KiimiT Rerg.
17 Weber liasse.
IN Saal^asse.

19 LanR Ga««».

20 Mcl/ger Gasse.

21 Am Mioheis Her*;.
Ti Kirchnasse.
23 Nt'U <ia-sse.
21 MUhlKUsso.
2.'t Markt Sira^se.
Mt MatuT^n^e.

WIESBADEN.

175

WIESBADEN.

An English surgeon, Mr. Edwin Lee, in
his medical work, affords us the best account
of Wiesbaden, and also an analysis of its
waters.

Wiesbaden, the capital of the Duchy of
Nassau, is about an hour's drive from Mayence,
and three from Frankfurt. It lies in a valley,
encircled by low hills ; behind which, on the
north and north-west, rises the range of the
Taunus Mountains, whose dark foliage forms
an agreeable contrast to the brighter green of
the meadows and the white buildings of the
town. Within the last few years several new
streets have been erected : the Wilhelmstrasse,
fronting the promenades, would bear a com-
parison with some of the finest streets in
Europe ; it consists principally of lodging-
houses elegantly fitted up. The Kurhaus der
Vier Jahrzeiten, or principal hotel and bathing-
house, forms one corner of this street and one
side of a square; on the opposite side of which
stands the handsome new theatre, where the
Mayence company performs during the season.
Across the road lies a verdant meadow, bor-
dered by avenues of limes and chestnut trees ;
beyond which are colonnades for shops, and the
Kursaal, which contains a handsome saloon for
dinners on fete days and public balls, with
smaller rooms for refreshment and games of
hazard. The ground behind this building and
the colonnades is laid out as a public garden,
adorned with shrubs and parterres of roses, and
shaded by acacias and other trees, the resort of
numerous singing birds. From this pleasure
ground an agreeable path is continued by the
side of a streamlet up the valley of Sonnenberg,
beyond the ruins of the ancient castle.

Nothing has been neglected to render Wies-
baden the most frequented watering-place in
Germany ; the walks and drives are pleasing ;
and from the rising grounds the Rhine, with
Mayence and other towns on its banks, are seen.
A hunting-box of the Duke's stands in a con-

spicuous position, on an elevated ridge of the
Taunus, and commands a fine prospect over an
extensive tract of variegated country, including
the richest part of the Rheingau. At Biberich
on the river, four English miles from Wiesbaden,
the Duke has a chateau where he usually re-
sides ; the garden is tastily laid out a I'Anglaise,
and admission is granted to strangers.

The population of Wiesbaden amounts to
about 8000 persons, mostly Protestants, consist-
ing of the military, government employes,
tradespeople, and others connected with the
bathing establishments. The people through-
out the duchy appear to be industrious and
contented. Sunday is with them a gala day :
the shops at Wiesbaden continue open, as also
the theatre and ball-room, which are filled with
visitors from Frankfurt, Mayence, and other
parts in the neighbourhood. On these occa-
sions some hundreds of persons dine at the
tables-d'hote of the Kursaal, the Vier Jahrzeiten,
and the Adier. Most of the English visitors
remaining at Wiesbaden and other watering-
places on the continent dine at the tables-d'hote,
private dinners being frequently composed of
dishes warmed up a second time.

The springs of Wiesbaden were used in the
time of the Romans, and have always enjoyed a
high reputation. Within the last few years the
place has been greatly frequented by the En-
glish, to whom it presents many advantages in
the superiority of its accommodations, its de-
lightful environs, and its comparatively short
distance from England, which may be reached
in four days by descending the Rhine. The
efficacy of the waters, which are among the
most powerful of their class, is a great induce-
ment for invalids to prefer it to other conti-
nental watering-places ; in some cases, however,
their action is too exciting, and others less
powerful, as Baden-Baden, are found to agree
better.

The Kochbrunnen, or boiling spring, is the

176

THE KIIIX1-: BOOK.

most generally used : it rises in the town, and
is the central point where a crowd of persons of
various nations assemble at stated hours to sip
their glasses of water, while sauntering about
under the acacia avenues, and listening to the
musical band. The water is perfectly limpid
when taken into a glass ; its taste is rather
agreeable than otherwise, and has been com-
pared to that of weak broth over-salted ; its
temperature is 151^ Fahrenheit. The ca-bonic
acid gas is seen bubbling up to the surface of
tlie water ; the quantity contained in a pint
amounts, according to Ritter, to 6^ cubic inches.
This spring holds in solution a greater quan-
tity of saline substances than any otluT of the
same class ; those of Pyrmont and Borcette,
perhaps, excepted. The Kochbrunnen supplies
the public baths and the liospital, which are
close to it, the hotel of the Vier Jahrzeiten, and
some bathing-houses. The temperature of the
spring at the Adler, and of the others, is some-
what lower than that of the Kochbrunnen ;
there is, howuver, no very material difference
with respect to their chemical composition.

Used in the form of bath, the water is gene-
rally exciting; it stimulates jjowerfully the skin
and absorbent system, not unfrequently pro-
ducing an eruption on the surface, whence the
excitement is transmitted to internal parts, es-
pecially the abdominal viscera, increasing the
activity of their functions, though in many cases
no perceptible cliange is experienced at the
time. Internally taken it promotes digestion,
sometimes producing an aperient effect : fre-
quently increases the secretion of the kidneys,
and acts consecutively upon the skin. Most
invalids combine the internal with the external
use of the water.

A course of this water is S])eci:illy applicable
to cases of articular rheumatism, with swellings
o; the joints of long duration ; chronic gout.

particularly when accompanied with calcareous
deposits; disorder of the digestive powers, with
vitiated secretion ; strumous enlargement of
the glands, or disease of bones ; derangement of
the general heklth in persons who have long
resided in tropical climates, as well as that
caused by intemperance, or the abuse of mer-
cury, when not attended by exceeding debility ;
some cases of neuralgia and tic ; amenorrhea,
and dysinenorrhea, if unaccompanied witli a
high degree of local irritation ; paralytic affec-
tions, especially if caused by morbid impres-
sions upon the organic nervous system, and not
depending upon cerebral disease ; and some
chronic diseases of the skin. It is also said to
be efficacious in bronchial complaints and
asthma, with copious expectoration ; in these
cases the inhalation of the vapour is joined to
the employment of the water. Douches, local
and general vapour baths, are used in many
cases of local disease, as is also occasionally the
muddy sediment deposited from the water.

SOLID SUBSTANTK VIFLDEn BY A PINT OF
FROM THE KOCMBKUNNEN, ANALYSED
KASTNER.

Muriate of soda

Sulphate of soda

Muriate of lime

Sulphate of litne

Carbonate of lime

Muriate of magnesia -

Carbonate of magnesia

Extractive matter

Iron - - - -

Muriate of potass

Fluate of magnesia

WATER
BV -

Grains.

44-Q25
0-700
5-480
0-420
1 -650
0-790
0-700
J -750
0-07S
1-200
1 -OW

57-393

iPPENDIX.

I. DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF THE WORKS OF ART IN THE

MUSEUM AT ANTWERP.

II. DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF THE PICTURES IN THE
MUSEUM AT BRUSSELS

A A

NOTICE

DES TABLEAUX EXrOSES AU MUSEE D'ANVERS.

No.

Artist's Name.

DusciiiJt-on.

CONNO

QuiNTEN Metsvs, dit le IMaiechal
d'Anvers, nt'' a Anvers vers 1450,
mort dans la meme ville en 1529.

Tableau gothique.

Fete du sernieiit des Archers d'Anvers, dit .Ion-
gen Handboog.

EUe a lieu devant un chateau ; le roi de la I'ete
est assis sous un dais, dont le fond en dossier
porte une grande clef en or : on lui verse a
boire et une jeune dame lui ofTre une pomme,
deux fous, tels qu'ils s'en trouvait ancienne-
ment attaches aux corps des sennens font leurs
Esbats de saillie. — Les armes d'Espagne et
d'Anvers, qu'on voit dans les croisees et autres
parties du tableau, semblent indi(juer que la
fete a lieu vers la fin du 15" siecle ; apparem-
ment a I'oceasion du mariage de Irliilippe
d'Autriclie avec Jeanne d'Arragon.

Ce tableau a passe pour etre de Hans Verbeeck,
nonime Hans de Malines.

Tableaux avec volets.

L'Inhumation de Jesus Christ.

Les amis de Jesus, apres avoir descendu son corps
de la croix, lui rendent les derniers devoirs.
La Vierge, dont la cuisante douleur s'allie a
une profoiide veneration, s'est prosternee de-
vant les restes inanimes de son divin fils et leur
fait ses adorations; St. Jean la soutient. deux
vieillards venerables soulevent I'un le chef,
I'autre la partie superieure du corps du Sau-
veur, pendant que les saintes femmes en em-

180

APPENDIX.

No.

Artist's Nanu

QlUNTKN MeTSYS

I N CON Nil

Description.

baument les plaies. On voit a droite sur le
second plan, le sepulcre, qu'on prepare pour
rccevoir le corps, le calvaire sur un plan plus
eieve et a gaucliu la viile de Jerusalem.

Volet de droite.

La tete de St. Jean Baptiste sur la table
d'H erode.

Volet de gauche.

Saint Jean dans I'huile bouillante.

Ces trois tableaux forment un dos plus prcfioux
monuniens de cette epoque de Tart, et on pout
les considerer comnie les eliefsd"n.'uvre de ce
grand maitre, qui d'apres une tradition assez
generalement re^ue, echangea, inspir^ par
Tamour, le marteau pour la palette, et qui
d'habile fqrgeron, devint ainsi un des premiers
peintres de son tems.

D'apres Alexandre Van Forncnbergh, le corps des
menuisiers de cette ville fit faire ces tableaux
en 1508 et s'arrangea avec le maitre pour la
somme de trois cents florins. — Un acte, sous
la date du 26 aout Ijll, qui repose dans les
archives de cette ville, fait supposer que cette
somme ne liii fut payee qu'en partie et que ce
corps s'acquitta du reste par la constitution
d'une rente perpetuelle, au profit des enfans de
Metsys. IMalgre cette penurie apparcnte il
refusa, d'apres Karel ^'an INIander, une otlre
considerable que I'hilippe II. ha fit faire pour
ces ouvrages. lis furent sauves des devasta-
tions exercees par les Iconoclastes, et ayant ete
vendus en 1577, le peintre Martin De \'os in-
sista si fortement pres du magistrat, que celui-
ci se deeida li les acheter. II en fit rac(|uisi-
tion au prix de fl. l.'JOO, et deslors ils orncrent
la chapelle, (]ue le magistrat avoit dans la ca-
thedrale, juscju'a I'epocjue de renlevcment de
nos objets d'art en 1794, aucjuel on fut assez
heureiix de les soustraire.

Au has du grand tableau se trouve jdacee I'anci-
enne ])ierre st'pulerale de ce maitre, et son
Epitapiie se voit a coti' de Tentree ))rincipale
de I'eglise de Notre- Dame en cette ville.

La Vierge montre le petit Jesus, qu'clle tient
assis sur une table.

I>'Adoration des I\I;iges.

Ce tableau |)assait autrefois ])our etie de Josse
Van Cleef, surnomme le fou, i)eintre d'Anvers,
un des doyens de la corporation de St. Luc ile
cette ville en 151!).

La Transfiguration.

Le tahii'au ])()rte la date de 1 5,')0.

Le Sauveur deseendu dc la eroix. La N'ioriji.',

ATPliNDlX.

181

No.

Artist'.-> Niuni'.

GiLi.Es MosTAERX, lit a Ilulst, iiiort
en 1598.

lOetll Aduien TiumiAs Keii, 1575.

1:5

15
16
17

L'O

Inconnu

Fran^'ois I'ourbus, ne a Bruges en
1540, mort a An vers, eleve tie son
pere Pierre Pourbus et de Fraiis
Floris.

MicHKL CoxiE, dit le Raphael, ne a
Malines en 1497, mort a Anvers
en 1592, eleve de Bernard \'an
Orley.

Pierre Bueughicl, dit Ic vieux, ne a
Breughel, ))res de Breda : il fiit
rc^u dans la Corjioratioii de Saint
Luc de cette ville en 1551.

Francois be Vriendt, dit P'rans
Floris, ne :i Anvers en 15'20, mort
dans la ineine ville en 1570.

Description.

St. Jean, la Madelaine, et plusieurs aiities dc
ses amis lui reiulent les derniers devoirs.

Huit portraits d'hommes en exvoto ; au milieu
dans un cadre separe, on voit Jesus Christ en
croix, entre la Vierge et Saint Jean.

Exvoto de deux pieces representant Tune les
horames, I'autre les femmes de la famille
Franco-y- Feo-de-Briez.

Portrait d'homme.

Tableau de forme ronde et qui seinhle appar-
tenir au terns de Pourbus le pere.

St. Eloy, prechant devant un nomiireux audi
toire.

St. Eloy, d'abord orfevre du roi Clotaire II. jniis
tresorier de Dagobert, tut nomine a I'eveche
de Noyon en 640. II a ete un des premiers
apotres du christianisme dans ce pays, et y
preclia vers 650.

Le INIaityre de Saint Sebastien.

St. Sebastien fut martyrise a Rome en 288, sous
la longue et cruelle persecution de Diocletien
et Maximien : il tenait un premier rang dans
les armees romaines, et les chretiens avaient eu
en lui jui-ques-la un puissant protecteur, quand
la rage de la persecution Teiiveloppa dans le
sanglant decret de ces empereurs, le([uel
n'epargna ni rang ni condition.

La tradition porte que le peintre fit ce tableau a
82 ans.

Le Martyre d'un saint.

Jesus Christ ressuscite et assis sur son tombeau,
triomphe de la mort et du peche.

Le Portement de la Croix.

Tableau qui fuurmille de figures : il est remar-
qiiable par les idees bizarres (ju'il represente.

St. Luc devant son chev;det.

C'est le portrait de Rytkaert Aerts dit Ryck-
metter-stelt, peintre et ami de Floris, ne a
Wyck-sur-mer en 1482, et qui mourut a Anvers
en 1577. Derriere lui est un homme occupe a
broyer les couleiirs, et a ses pieds le bceuf, signe
symbolique de TEvangeliste Luc : il porte sur
le front les armes de la corporation sous Tinvo-
cation de ce Saint, dont les peintres, sculpteurs,
graveurs, etc. firent partie.

I. a Vierge adore le divin Enfant auquel elle
vient de donner naissance, derriere elle on voit
Sai t Jose])li: ks bergers accourent et se pros-
ternent, en faisant leurs oflfraiides.

La chute des anges rebelles.

L'executi.Mi de ce tableau doit faire rcgretter'

1S2

APPENDIX.

No.

Artivt's Naint

Deseript'ioi).

'24

-27

'iS

'J!)
31

VHA

Vki

Le 'I'niKN, lie a (^adoix' d.ins le
Fiioiil, en 1477, inort de la jieste
a W'lusL" en 1576.

I NCO^^'li

Martin de Vos, ne a Anvers en
1524, eleve de Fraiis Kloiis et dii
Tiiitoret : iiii des doyens de la
Corporation de St. Liic en 157'2,
inort ii Anvers en 1G()4.

qu2 Ic siijet ait jettc i'auteiir dans un amas do
tant de bizarrcries et d'idees fantasti(jues. Les
anges, qui precipitent leurs compajjnons rc-
prouves, attestent cepend mt coinbieii il meri-
tait le siirnom de Raphael de l-landre, iju'on
lui a donnL".
Portrait d'un Chanoine, derrlire leqiiel on voit

Saint Luc.
Le Papc Alexandre VL iire-^ente a St. Pierre
I'eveqiie de Paptios (de la famille venitieiiiie
Pesaro) qii'il a iioinme arniral de ses galeres,
destinies a agir conjointement avec les forces de
Venise centre les 'I'urcs. Pesaro est en lial)it
de I'ordre de Saint Dominique, et tient d'une
main I'jtendard de I'Kglise, qui porte a la partie
superieure de la banderolle les amies de Horgia.
Ix' Tableau porte cette inscription : Uitratto
U!io de casa Pesaro, die su fatto generale di
St. Chiesa. Titiano feet.
Sa !\L-ijeste fit present de ce tableau au IMuseo

d' Anvers en 1823.
Une Fete de village.
Ce Tableau semble etre peint vers le milieu du

16« siecle.
Jesus Christ ressuseite.

Au cote droit on voit Saint George en pkine
armure ; a gauche Sainte Marguerite : sur le
devant Saint I'ierre et Paul (jui tiennent des
livres, offVant des passages de TEcriture, (jtii
traitent de la Resurrection du Sauveur.
Constantin fait batir a Constantinople I'Eglise,
qu'il dedia a la Sagesse uternelle, sous le nom
de Sainte Soiihie. On voit cet Empereur,
avec line sLiite de sa coiir, au milieu des archi-
tectes et des ouvriers.
Le Bapteme de Constantin.
Ces deux deriiiers numeros ont servis de volets

au 11° 25.
Les Pharisieiis, s'l'tant joints aux Ilerodiens,
veuillent eprouver .Jesus et lui teiidre line ein-
biiche, oil il devait se trouver eiitre le choix et
la vindicte de I'autorite et de la haine liii
peuple : iis lui deniandent s'il etait perinis de
))ayer le trihut il ("a'sar. Le Sauveur confond
leiir astuce par la sage sentence, ipii leiir re-
niontre, (]u'il y a des devoirs eiivers le Prince
comme il y en a eiivers Dieu.
La valeiir de la modi(]ue ollVande de la jiauvre

veuve.
Les .Ajiotres trouvent dans un poisson de (|uoi

jiayer le trihut.
I^e Sauveur coidoiul I'incredulitt' de ."^aiut

TIlllIIKlS.

APPKNDIX.

1H3

No.

Artist's Name.

3'i

Martin Uk Vos

fi5

36
57

39
40

42
4;J

Franck, dit le Viki;x

Francois Franck, iin des doyens dc
la corporation de Saint Luc de cttte
ville en 1588.

Disfriptiuii

Le Bapteme de Jesus ( hrist.

La Decollation de Saint Jean Ba])tiste.

Ces deux derniers numeros ont scrvis de volet an
No. SI.

Les Tentations de Saint Antoine.

Le sujet est en partie tiaite dans le style bur-
lesque, comme on le represente ordinairement ;
en partie il est hlstorique, comme montrant
divers passages de la vie du Saint, le ])rinci])al
est celui de la visite que le Saint fit a Saint
Paul, premier ermite. La legende dit, qu' An-
toine, etant venu voir celui-ci, il le trouva
pres de sa fin : a sa priere il le quitta, pour
aller chercher le manteau de Saint Atlianase,

- dans lequel il desirait de mourir ; mais a son
retour le Saint Anachorete etait expire. Em-
barrasse dans les moyens pour mettre le corps
en terre, deux lions snrvinrent et firent la fosse.
IjC peintre a ar.ssi eu en vue d'indiquer, par le
couvent qui s'eleve a droite, que Saint Antoine
doit etre considere aussi bien comme Patriarche
des Cenobites que des Anaclioretes.

St. Iaic occupe a peindre la Ste. Vierge.

Ce tableau est peint en 1.57'2 pour I'autel qu'avait
la corporation de Saint I>uc dans la Cathedrale
de cette ville : Saint Luc est le portrait
du maitre, et la Sainte Vierge celui de sa
femme.

Deux petites Grisailles, representant des actes
de charite.

Jesus Christ se fait connaitre, au moment de la
fraction du pain, des deux disciples, qui I'avaient
accompagne a Emaiis.

La Sainte Congregation des premiers Fideles est
assemblee, pour I'election de deux Apotres :
Saint Pierre officie et le Saint Esprit designe
par des rayons de lumiere Paul et Barnabas,

La Nativite de Jesus Christ.

St. Fran9ois et un autre saint de son ordre.
Les onze numeros suivans representent des

faits de la vie et des miracles de ces deux

saints.
Ce saint compagnon de Saint Francois, encore en

habits du monde, est agenouille devant I'autel

de la Vierge.
II re9oit I'habit de I'ordre.
Se trouvant avec le Saint Instituteur, dans un lieu

sauvage et desert, ils sont miraculeusenient

pourvus de nourriture.
St. Fran9ois fait sortir sain et sauf d'un font-

ardent un enfant qui y etait tomhe.

184

Ari'KXDlX.

No.

Ar.ist's X.ii

4.5

47
48

r,'2

55
56
57
58

Francois FuANtK

Jerome Franck

Ambroise Fuanck, un des doyens de
la corporation de Saint Lucdecette
ville en 1582.

Descrijition.

Inconnu

Hans Van Der Ei.kiircht, alias
Klein IIawski'.s, nc pies de Cam-
pen : rc^ii dans la corporation de
Saint Luc de cette ville en 15:55.

Han.s Jorpaens, ne a Anvers, inort

a Delft.
LamhehtVan Ookt, nea Amersfort.

St. Fraiifois preche en plclne cninpajinc, derriere
lui deux infideles, amies d'arcs et de traits,
semblent vouloir decliarger siir le saint le depit
et la rage qu'ils ressentent de TeHet que font
ses paroles sur I'auditoire.

St. Francois donne la guerison a divers aveugles,
perclus, et autres malades.

Mort de Saint Francois.

L'attouchement de son corps rend la vie a une
jeune dame expiree.

Une femme oHre son enfant a St. Francois qui se
montre dans une gloire.

Un enfant ressuscite par I'intcrccssion de Saint
Francois.

Ldtomheau de Saint Fraii^-ois devenu un ohjet de
veneration et de recours, tant pour les puissans
que pour les malheureux.

Combat des Horaces et des Curiaces. Grisaille.

La Cene.

Jesus benit le calice qui doit circuler entre ses
Apotres, pour leur etre un des tv'jJes du tesia-
ment qu'il leur legue.

Le martyre des Saints Crepin et Crepinien.

Ces deux Saints d'extraction noble, sfellerent la
foi de leur sang a Soissons, sous une des plus
cruelles persecutions que I'Eglise cut a
cssuyer.

Martyre de Saint Come.

INIartyre de Saint Damien.

St. Sebastien parmi les prisonniers.

St. Sebastien impose les mains a une dame ro-
maine, a genoux devant lui. Ce tableau oft're
plusieurs portraits, apjiaremnient ceux des
donateurs.

On distingue partieulierement ces trois derniers
Franck, nes a Herenthals, qui etaient freres
et peintres d'histoire, dont Fran^'ois ^tait I'aine,
Jerome le second, et Ambroise le cadet : ce
dernier vivait encore en KJOO.

Le Sauveur en croix enlre la A'itrgc et Saint
Jean; la Madelaine, a genoux, adore son
divin Maitre.

Le miracle de la multiplication des pains.

l)t'])uis trois jours une trou]ie nombreuse
suivait Jesus dans le desert; elle etait sans
nourriture. Le Sauveur cut \)hw d'elle,
et opera cecelebre miracle jiar lecjuel il rassasia
cin(i mille hommes de cinq pains et de deux
poissons.

I'liaraoii ])erit avec son armee dans la nier rouge.

La Uesurrei'liiin de Jesus Cluist.
Suite do seul .S\ l)illes.

APPENDIX. 185

No.

Artist's Name.

Description.

Martin Pepyn, Contemporain de

Les Israelites ont passe la mer rouge, qui se

Rubens. II quitta jcune encore

ferme sur Pharaon et son armee.

la patrie, pour aller se ])erfc'Ctionner

en Italie : I'acceuil qu'on y fit a

ses talens Vy fixa, et nous possedons

peu de ses ouvrages.

St. Luc preche I'Evanglle a une multitude de
tout age et de tout sexe, reunie en pleine cam-
pagne.

Ce tableau ornait la salle aux reunions de la cor-
poration de St. Luc.

OcTAvio VAN Veen (Otto Venius.)

Acte de charite de Saint Nicolas.

ne a Ley den en 1556, mort a

St. Nicolas instruit de I'etat de detresse, dans

Bruxelles en 1636, eleve d' Isaac

lequel se trouve une famille honnete, vient

Swanenhurg : un des doyens de la

la nuit, pour ne pas etre reconnu, et lui

corporation de Saint Luc de cette

jette, pendant qu'elle travaille autour d'une

ville en 1605.

lampe, un sac d 'argent a travers la croissee
ouverte.

~ "

Divers miracles de Saint Nicolas.
Le maitre represente particulierement dans ce
tableau la multiplication du froment.

La vocation de I'Apotre Matthieu.

Jesus, passant devant le bureau d'impots de Cap-
harnaum, vit Matthieu, un des cummis de la
recette, il I'invite a le suivre : Matthieu y
repond par une pleine docilite et un entier
abandon.

Zacliee sur le figuier.

Desireux de voir le Sauveur, qui passait
par Jericho, Zachee, un des principaux
publicains, empeche par la foule qui I'en-
tourait, monte sur un figuier : Jesus I'apper-
cevant, I'invite a descendre et lui demande
I'hospitalite.

St. Luc devant le proconsul.

11 defend avec dignite devant son juge la Doc-
trine de son dlvin maitre.
Ce tableau a ete peint pour la corporation de
Saint Luc, dont il ornait la salle aux reunions.

Portrait de Sonnius, premier eveque d' An-
vers.

Pierre Paul Rubens, ne a Cologne,
de parens Anversois, le 28 Juin,
1577, mort a Anvers le 30 Mai,
1640, eleve d'Adam Van Oort et
d'Octavio Van Veen, un des doyens
de la corporation de Saint Luc de
cette ville en 1631.

Le Sauveur en croix entre les deux larrons.

Ste. Therese intercedant pour les ames du pur-
gatoire.

Le Sauveur mort entre les bras de son pere ; le
Saint Esprit descend sur cette scene, qui re-
presente la Sainte Trinite.

186

APPENDIX.

No.

Artist's Name.

75
76

77
78

79
80

83
84

86
87

88
89

Pierre Paul Rubens.

Description.

Henry Van Bai.kn, nc a Auvers,
eleve d'Adam Van Oort : uii des
doyens dc la forjioialion de Saint
Luc de cette villc en IGOy.

L'Education de la Sainte Vierge.

La Communion de Saint Fran9ois.

St. Fran9ois d'Assise sentant approcher sa fin,

s'est fait conduire au pied de I'autel pour y

refevoir le Viatique.
11 existe dans la famille Vande Werve. de cette

ville, la quittance (jue Rubens doinia de 750

fl' qu'il re9ut pour ce tableau, dont voici la

teneur :

Iconderschrevenbekentie ontfanghe te hebben it handen
van Mynheer Jaspers Charles de somma van zeven hon-
dert en vyftig guUlene, tot volkonieii betalinghe van een
stuck Schildery door myne handt gemaeckt, staeiule in
Ste. Franciscus Kercke tot Antwerpen. Ende t'oirconde
der waerheydt hebbe ic dese quittancie gescreven en on-
derteekent deze 17 May IGl'.l.
(geteekenz.) Pietro F.^uolo Rvbens.

L' Adoration des Mages.

Repetition ou imitation en petit de la Descente

de Croix de I'eglise de Notre- Dame de cette

ville.
Jesus Christ montre ses plaies a St. Thomas.
Le portrait de Nicolas Rockox, Bourguemaitre

de cette ville, ami de Rubens.
Le portrait d'Adrienne Perez, son epouse.
Ces deux derniers numeros formaient les volets

du n". 79, avec lequel ils formaient I'Epitaphe

de ce Bourguemaitre dans I'eglise des Recol-

lets de cette ville.
Le Sauveur descendu de la croix.

Le corps du Sauveur, pose sur une pierre, est

soutenu par la Vierge, Saint Jean et Saint

Josej)h d' Arithmalie, derriere les(]uels on voit

la Madelaine.
St. Jean Evangeliste.
La Vierge avec I'Enfant Jesus.
Ces deux derniers numeros formaient les volets

du n°- 82.
La Vierge, I'Enfant Jesus, et St. Joseph.
On cioit que Rubens fit present de ce tableau

a la corporation de Saint Luc, dont il ornait la

salle aux reunions.
Le Sauveur en croix.
Esquisse d'un Char triomphal, qui a servi pour

I'entree solennclle de Tarchiduc Ferdinand.
Esquisse d'un arc de tronii)he.
Esquisse d'un arc de triompiie.
Ces deux ilerniers Escpiisses ont egalement servi

a I'occasion citee au n". 87.
Un concert d'anges.

Un Idem.

APPENDIX. 187

No.

Artist's Name.

Description.

Abraham Janssevs, ne et mort a

Le fleuve I'Escaut et la villed' Anvers ; allugorie ;

Aiivers ; un des doyens de la cor-

figures de grandeur colossale.

poration de Saint Luc de cette vilie

Ce tableau ornait autrefois la salle d'audience du

en 1607.

magistrat de cette ville.

_ «

L' Adoration des Wages.

. -

La Vierge, 1' Enfant Jesus, et Saint Jean.

Theodore Rombouts, ne a Anvers

La Sainte Famille dans un paysage : le paysage

en 1597, eleved' Abraham Janssens;

est par Wildens.

un des doyens de la corporation de

Saint Luc de cette ville en 1628, ou

il mourut en 1640.

Gaspar de Craeyer, ne a Anvers en
1585: eleve de Coxie, mort a
Bruxelles dans un age tres-
avancc.

Elie dans le desert

CoRNEiLLE DE Vos, ne a Hulst ; un

La Famille Snoeck offrant des ornemens deglise

des doyens de la corporation de

a I'abbe de I'abbaye de St. Michel a Anvers.

Saint Luc de cette ville en

1619.

Le Concierge de la corporation de Saint Luc,
d' Anvers.

11 est decore de medailles et place devant une
table, couverte de riches gobelets en vermeil ;
triomphes reniportes, ou presens de souverains
et de princes, que cette corporation possedait
et que les bouleversemens politiques ont fait
disparoitre. Un de ces gobelets fut donne a
la Corporation par la noblesse d'Anvers ; il
portait les portraits de Jean Van Eyck et
d' Albert Durer.

St. Norbert et un autre Saint agenouilles devant
le Saint Sacrement.

ICO

Exvoto ; portraits de deux epoux agenouilles de-
vant la Sainte Vierge.

101

Exvoto d'une Famille en priere ; il se compose
de deux pieces.

102

Simon de Vos, ne a Anvers en 1 603.

L'Adoration des Mages.

103

Exvoto. — Un Donateur et Saint Guillaume.

104

_ _

Exvoto. — Une Donatrice et Sainte Barbe.

105

Jacques Jordaens, ne a Anvers en
1594, mort dans la meme ville en
1678 : eleve d'Adam Van Oort et
de Rubens.

L'Adoration des Bergers.

106

Jacques Jordaens

Les Soeurs hospitalieres de Sainte Elisabeth.

107

•

Le Sauveur mis au toinbeau.

108

Le Pegase.

Ce tableau a servi autrefois de piece de plafond

dans la salle aux reunions de la corporation de

Saint Luc.

109

La Cene.

110

La Loi Humaine basee sur la Loi Divine.
Ce tableau ornait autrefois la salle aux reunions
de la corporation de Saint Luc.

188

APPENDIX.

No.

Ill

Artist's Name.

112
113

114

115

116
117

118
119

120

121
122
12.3

124
125

126
127

128
129

Description.

Antoine Van Dyck, ne a Anvers
eii 1.599, cleve de H. Van Balen
et de Rubens : un des doyens
de la corporation de Saint Luc
en 1634; mort a Londres en
1641.

Le MEME, OU dans SA MANIERE

Gerard Seghers, ne a. Anvers en
1589, mort dans la meme ville en
1651, eleve de H. Van Balen.

Daniel Seghers et Corneille Schut,
Seghers naquit a Anvers en 1590:
il fut 61eve de Breughel, dit de
Velours. II entra commc frere-
lai dans la Society de Jesus, et
mourut a. Anvers en 1G60

CoRNEir.LE SciiuT, ne a Anvers en
1590, mort dans la meme ville en
1676; eleve de Uubens

Theodore Van Thulden, ne a Bols-
le-l)ucen 1607, eleve de Uubens:
il travailla avec lui a la galerie du
Luxenil)ourg, et fut un des doyens
de la corporation de Saint Luc en
1638.

Jesus Christ en croix, Saint Dominique, et Sainte
Catherine de Sienne.

Le Sauveur mort sur les genoux de la Vierge.

Meme sujet differemment traite.

La tradition jiorte que ce tableau a etc peint en
Italie.

Portrait de Caesar Alexandre Scaglia, un des ne-
gociateurs ])our I'Espagne au congres de
IMuiister : il est appuye sur un piedestal, por-
tant une inscription, qui fait connaitre cette
circonstance.

Ce portrait ornait la ci-devant eglise des Recol-
lets de cette ville.

Jesus Christ en croix : tableau de petite dimen-
sion.

Portrait de INIalderus, Eveque d' Anvers.

Saint Stanislas, entrant dans I'ordre de Saint Ig
nace.

Le mariage de la Vierge.

La Vierge tient 1' Enfant Jesus, auquel Sainte

Claire fait ses adorations. »

Sainte Therese. Un ange lui enflamme le coeur

de I'aniour divin.
La Vierge au scapulaire.
Le Sauveur re^-oit en grace les pecheurs.
Une grande guirlande de Heurs, au milieu de la-

quelle on voit Saint Ignace, peint par Schut.

Une guirlande de flours entoure I'iniage de la

Vierge, egalement peint par Schut.
Le Martyre de Saint George.

Le Sauveur et la Vierge donnent k Saint l-'ran-
9ois rindulgence dite Portiuncula.

Esquisse d'un arc de trioniphe, (jui a scrvi a I'oc-
casion de I'entree de I'archiduc Ferdinand.

Esquisse d'un autre arc de triomphe, avant servi

ii la meme occasion.
Des assassins |)r6sentent une coupe empoisonnee

il un religieux de ronlre de Saint Fran(;ois : on

APPENDIX. 189

No.

Artist's Name.

Description.

voit au haut du tableau la Vierge dans une

gloire.

130

TuEonoRE Van Thulden

Saint Francois dans line gloire.

]31

Le portrait du IJernardin Van Tliulden.

1.S2

Francois Snyhehs, ne a Anvers en
1579, mort dans la meme ville
en 1(;57 ; eleve de Henry Van
Balen.

Du Gibier sur une table.

133

Des Cygnes dans I'eau, qui se defendent contre
un chien.

134

Luc. Francois, ne a Malines en
1574; mort dans la meme ville en
1643.

Saint Joachim, Sainte Anne, et la Vierge.

135

La Vierge presente le petit Jesus a un Saint
Carm lite.

136

H. P. Franck

Apparition de Saint .■\ntoine de Padoue, entoure
danges dans une gloire, aux fideles qui veiie-
rent son tombeau.

Ce tableau ornait Tepitaplie d'. Alexandre Vanden
Broeck et de son f'rere.

137

Adam Wii.LAERTS, ne a Anvers en

Fete donnee a Tervuren a leurs altesses royales

1577 ; mort a Utrecht.

Albert et Isabel le.

138

GUILI.AUME NlEULANDT, He a An-

vers en 1584, mort a Amsterdam
en 1635; eleve de Savary.

Vue du Forum et du Campo-vaccir.o a Rome.

139

Pierre Van Wol, iie a Anvers en
1580, mort a Paris en 1650; eleve
de Rubens.

L'Adoration des M;'.ges.

140

Deodat Delmonte

La Transfiguration.

141

Jean Van Bronckhorst, dit Langen
Jan, ne a Utrecht en 1603.

Le portrait d'un homme d'sige.

142

David Teniers, le Jeune, ne a An-

Valenciennes secourue.

vers en 1610: il fut eleve de son

Valenciennes se trouvait serree de tres-pres, en

pere et doyen de la corporation de

1656, par Farmee Fran^aise, sousles ordres des

Saint Luc en 1644. 11 est un des

marechaux DeTurenne et De la Ferte; quand

premiers directeurs de I'academie

les Espagnols, commandes par Don Juan d' Au-

de dessin de cette ville, pour la-

triche, fils naturel de Philippe IV. et de IMarie

(]uelle, conjointement avec ses con-

Calderonne, commcdienne, (jui avait avec lui

freres, il sollieita et ohtint en 1663

le Grand Conde, <jue des mecontentemens

de Philippe IV., roi d'Espagne, le

avaient fait quitter la France pour s'attacher a

titre d'Academie Royale.

TEspagne, vinrent a son secours. La Ferte
avait une position tres-desavantageuse et se-
paree du corps de Turenne par I'Escaut : celui-

ci, qui en sentit tout le danger, tacha de per-
suader La Ferte de mettre la riviere entre hii
et I'enneini, et de joindre leurs forces, mais in-

iitilement : aussi La Ferte fut il attaque et de-

fait, et Turenne n'o])era sa retraite, qu'a travers
les plus grandes difficultes.
Le centre du tableau donne le plan de la ville,
celui de la position des armees et de leurs
mouvemens d'attaque et de defense. Dans la
partie superieure, on voit la ville de Valen-

190

APPENDIX.

143

144

145

146
147
148

149
150

151

15'2
15:5

Pi Eli, HE Thys, nu a Aiivers, un des
doyens de la corporation de Saint
Luc en I66'6; cleve de Antoine
Van Dyek.

Jeav Erasme Q,uei,i,in, nomme le
Vieux ; ne a Anvers en 1607,
niort dans la meme ville en 1678 ;
eleve de Rubens.

Jean Ebasme Quei-lin, nomme le
Jeuiie ; ne a Anvers en 1629,
mort dans la meme ville en 1715;
eleve de son pere.

ciennes, que le peintre a placee sous la protec-
tion du Saint Sacrement et de la Vierge. Le
premier represente avec les accessoires du Sa-
crement de Miracle, se trouve au milieu d'une
gloire, formee d'une ((uantite d'anges. dont plu-
sieurs tiennent baisses et comme trainants des
drapeaux pris sur I'armee Fran^aise.

Le tableau est encadre en son entier dans une
espece d'arc de triom])be, forme d'une multi-
tude d'armures et d'instrumens de guerre, ren-
dus avec ime grandc verite et d'une execution
admirable, au milieu desquels on voit, a la ])ai--
tie inferieure, en bronze, le buste de Philippe
IV., tenu par Minerve et Hercule. Minerve
foule aux pieds la Dlscorde, et a cote d'Hcr-
cule le Lion Espagnol tient le Coq, symbole de
la France, sous ses griffes. De chaque cote
sont plusieurs jjortraits, en medaillon, parnii
lesquels on distingue ceux de Don Juan et ile
Conde.

Sa Majeste fit present de ce tableau au Musee
d' Anvers en 1823.

L' .Assumption de la Vierge.

Un ange presentc Saint Fran9ois a Jesus Cbrist

et a la Vierge.
La \'ierge apparait a Saint Guillaunie due d'.Ac-

quitaine.
Portrait iriiomme.
Icare et Dedalc.
Saint Brunon guerit par le signe de la croix un

homme de la morsure d'un serpent.

Un Enfant est ressuscite i)ar un Saint I^veque.

Les trois numcros qui suivent forment un trait
de I'histoire de nos guerres civiles vers le mi-
lieu de le*^ siecle, et representent les Martyrs de
Gorcum

Le ])remier fait voir deux Ucligieux, premontres,
con<luits par une forte garde, a pied et a clieval,
vers une prison, devant laquelle se trouve dejii
un grand nombre de personnes de differens
sexes et conditions.

Dans le second on voit dans une des salles d'une
abbaye le tribunal qui va prononcer sur leur
sort.

Dans le troisieme on voit le supplice des con-
damnes, qui a lieu dans une grange.

Le Sauveur au repas de Simon Ic Pliarisien, la
pecheresse est a .ses ])ieds.

APPENDIX.

191

No.

154

155
156

156*

157
157*

158

159
160
161

16'i

Artist's Name.

163

164
165

166

167
168

169

Jean Erasme Quellin

Caspar Van Opstal, un des doyens
de la corporation de Saint Luc, et
un des directeurs de 1' Academic de
cette ville en 1598.

T. Boetersiane, eleve de Antoine
Van Dyck.

Description.

Saint Brunon re9oit du Pape I'approbation de sa

regie.

Thierrv Van Det.en et Boeyer-
mans. Van Delen naquit a Heus-
deii : il fut eleve de Francois
Hals, florlssait en 1 625, et mourut
a Arnemuyden en Z^'lande.

Keerings et A. Genoels

G. Maes, un des doyens de la corpo-
ration de Saint Luc, et un des di-
recteurs de r Academic de c>.tte
ville en 1682.

Pierre Van Lint

Le Martyre de Sainte Agathe.

La Piscine de Bethsa'ide.

Ce tableau, qui pour la dimension est un des
plus extraordinaires que Ton ccnnoisse, est aussi
une des plus fastueuses compositions que la
peinture ait produites, et le chef-d'oeuvre
reconnu de ce maitre.

La partie superieur du tableau representant La
Piscine de Bethsa'ide.

Cette magnifique composition servait d'epitaphe,
comme le temoigne I'inscription placee au has
du numero 156.

Portrait de Gaspar Nemius, 6^ eveque d'Anvers.

Portrait de Aub. Vanden Eede, 8'^ eveque d'An-
vers.

Jesus Christ apparait a Saint Jean de la croix,
Carmelite.

Personnages de haut rang, qui se presentent
devant un jeune monarque.

Jesus Christ la Source du Salut et de la Gueri-
son : tableau allegorique.

L' Academic d'Anvers, mere nourriciere de la
peinture, distribue des encouragemens : on y
volt les portraits de Iliibens et de Van Dyck

Ce tableau represente une Iteunion de Famille :
on y distingue une vieille dame en habits de
devote, deux jeunes epoux et deux ecclesias-
tiques : la tradition dit, que cette famille se
distingua par ses bienfaits envers le Seminaire
de cette ville.

Dans une magnifique architecture, qui represente
le temple de la Paix, on voit cette bienfaisante
Deesse, entouree de la Peinture et de la Poesie,
dont elie est la protectrice : des genies chassent
du temple le demon de la discorde.

Minerve et \(jr, Muses dans un paysage. Le pay-
sage est de Keerings.

Le Martyre de Saint George.

Saint George occupa un rang distingue dans les
armies Romaines : il fut decapite sous Dio-
cletien.

Le portrait d'un frere Cellite.

Sainte Catherine.

Portrait du Cardinal Gitmazio, patron de I'au-
teur. Une inscription sur ce tableau porte
que par cet ouvrage il remporta le prix a
Rome en 1639.

Reunion de plusieurs personnes des deux sexes,
qui se reposent au bord d'une riviere.

192

APPENDIX.

No.

Artist's Name.

Description.

170

Jeak Cossiers, ne a Anvers en 1603,
eleve de (.'oriieille de A'os; iin des
doyens de la corporation de Saint
Luc en 1639.

L'Adoration des Bergers.

171

Meme sujet quele numero precedent, de moindre
dimension, et varie pour la conii)osition.

172

Un Gentilliomme allumantsa pipe: il est accom-
pagne d'un page, (jui hii verse a boire.

IT.',

La Flagellation.

174

Portrait d'lm C'liirurgien.

17.5

Jean Van HoEcK,neetmort a Anvers

Saint Fran^'ois fait ses adorations a la \'ierge.

176

P. Thys, Dominicain a Anvers.

Le Sauveur descendu de la croix.

177

Raphael Van Orley

Marche triompliale du Pape et de rEm))ereur
Charles Quint a Rome.

178

Herheyns, nomme le Vieux, ne et
mort a Anvers.

Le Pere eternel.

179

Van Thiei.en

Uiie guirlande de fleurs.

180

N. Kyckens, nomme le Vieux, ne et
mort a Anvers.

Ste CatliL'rine disputant avec les philosophes.

181

Portrait d'homme.

182

AoRiEN DE Backer, ne et mort a

La Jus-tice legagne ])ar la ))aix les forces qu'elle

Amsterdam.

avait perdues pendant les desordres de la
guerre et lanarchie des troubles. Allegoric.

18.3

Thomas Willebrordts Bosschaert,

Le Sauveur en croix, la Madelaine et Saint

ne a Bergen op-Zoom en 1613,

Fran9ois.

mort a Anvers en 1656, eleve de

Gerard Severs.

184

Jean Van Kessel, ne a Anvers en
16'26, mort dans la meme ville.

Concert d'oiscaux.

185

Jean Feypt, ne et mort a Anvers

Des Chiens de chasse et du Gibier mort.

186

Jean Sibrechts, ne et mort a An-

Deux religieux de I'ordrc de St. Francois, dans

vers : le tableau porte la date de

un paysage agreste, dans Iccpiel on voit rassem-

1666.

blce une ([uantite d'aniniaux de toute espece.

187

Antoine Gobau, ne et mort a An-

Reunion d'artistcs a Rome. Le tableau porte

vers.

I'annee 166S.

188

Vue de la Place Navona a Rome.

189

GoDEFROi Kneller, ue a Lubeck,

Le ])ortrait du chanoine Cockx, chantre de la

peintre de Charles 11. et de

Catliedrale d' Anvers.

Jacques II. Uois d'Aiigleterre.

190

Marc Antoine Garibai.do

La Fuite en Egypte.

191

Van MlNDERHOUT

Vue d'un jiort du Levant, au suleil coucliant.

192

Inconnu

Un Ilyver.

193

Deux jeunes Filles : une d'elles a))prete un Bou-
quet, I'autre carresse une Brehis.

194

Un Berger joue de la tlute devant sa l>ergere,
IHMulant (jue celli-ci pare inie l)rebis.

195

Jean Peeters

Jj'Escaut pris devaiit Anvers. On voit nombre
de i)ersonnes sur la glace ; des tentes et meme
des voitures chargees.

196

Van Es

Nature morte. Une cruche a vin, des citrons
cou])es, et un eoufeau.

197

Balth. Vanden Bossche, nc et mort a

Reunion du serniiiit de r.nhalete.

Anvers : le tableau est peint en 1 71 1 . :

Mr. le Bourguemestre est introdnil dans I'assem-

APPENDIX. 193

No.

Artist's Name.

Description.

blee et complimente a I'entree par les Doyens.

Les figures de ce tableau presentent autant de

portraits.

198

GOVAERTS

Assemblee des confreres du meme serment de

I'arbalete.
Ce tableau est enrichi de I'illustration d'un pro-

tecteur, represente allegoriquement.

199

Balth. BEsscHEr, ne a Londres
d'un pere Anversois en 1709, mort
a Anvers en 1 776 : un des direc-
teurs de cette academic en 1756.

Joseph vendu par ses freres.

200

Joseph Vice-roi d'Egypte : devant lui sont ses
freres qui viennent s'approvisioner en grain.

201

Portrait du peintre, il a la palette en main.

202

Verhagen, ne et raort a Louvain

Agar et son fils renvoyes par Abraham.

203

Tassaert, surnomme I'Anglais

Reimion de philosophes.

204

P. Snyers, nomme le Saint, ne a
Anvers, il y mourut en 1752.

Un paysage orne de fleurs, d'insectes, etc.

205

Martin J. Geeraerts, ne a Anvers
en 1706, mort dans la meme ville
en 1 791 : un des directeurs de cette
academie.

Bas-relief, representant les Beaux- Arts.

206

Andre Lens, ne a Anvers en 1739,
mort a Bruxelles en 1822, un des di-
recteurs de cette academie en 1763.

L'Annonciation.

207

Le portrait du graveur Martinasie : il travaille a
la planclje de I'Enlevement des Sabines, d'apres
le tableau peint par Rubens.

208

Hercule prend sous sa protection les Arts contre
I'envie et I'ignorance, qu'il terrasse a coups de
sa formidable massue.

209

Kerckx

L'Agneau de Dieu dans une gloire, au milieu
des bienheureux. Au haut du tableau on voit
le Pere eternel entoure d'anges.

210

Kerckx

Les Israelites, prets a sortlr d'Egypte, mangent,
d'apres le prescrit de Moise, I'agneau-pascal.
On voit I'ange exterminateur qui frappe les
premiers-nes des Egyptiens.

211

Inconnu

Blazons de nos anciennes societes de Rhetorique.

COPIES.

212

Par p. Thys, Dominlcain a Anvers

Saint Ambroise refusant a I'Empereur Tlieodose
le Grand I'entree du temple de Milan, pour
n'avoir pas expie le crime du massacre de Sa-
lonique. L'original se trouve a la Galerie
Imperiale de Vienne.

213

Inconnu d'apres Rubens

La grande chasse au lion.

c c

194

APPENDIX .

No.

214

215
216

217
218
219
220
221
222
223
224

Artist's Name.

Idem d'apres Van Dyck
Copies d'apres Van Dyck

Inconnu d'apres Le Titien
Idem d'apres Paul Veronese
Idem d'apres Dj; Wit
Idem d'apres un Inconnu

Description.

Silene ivre : il est soutenu par des satyres et une

baccliante.
Saint Pierre.
Saint Paul.
Tete de JNIadelaine.

Portrait de I'lnfante Isabelle Claire Eugenie.
Portrait de I'eveque d'Anvers Malderus.
Portrait d'un abbe.
Jesus rejettc pour Harrabas.
Le centurion aux jiieiis du Sauveur.
Un jeune homme dessinant.
Portrait du Pape Pie VI.

M A E B R E S.

225 Arthur Quellin

226 Kerrickx, ne et mort a Anvers : un
des Directeurs de eette Academic
en 1692.

227 : Louis Willemsens

228 ' P. Van Baurscheit, 1700
229

Charles Gkerts, Professeur a 1' Aca-
demic de Louvain, Artiste vivant.
GuiLL. Geefs, Artiste vivant
Inconnu

230
231
et 232
233 David Tenikrs, le Jeune

234

235

236

237

238
239
240

Jacques Jorhaens

Ambr. Francken, (lit le Vieux,
Elevc de Martin De Vos, doyen
de la corporation de St. Luc, en
1581—1582, mort en 1619.

Jean B. Francken, Fils et ^leve de

Scbastiea Francken, nc a Anvers

vers I'an 151)6.
Gastard Van Oi-stal
Jean Van Oh ley
Pierre Van Lint, n(5 a Anvers en

1609, mort dans la meme ville en

1668.

Le Buste de Louis Benavides, Marquis de Cara-

cene, etc.
Buste de son Altesse Maximilien Emanuel de

Baviere, gouverneur des Pays-Bas Espagnols.

Buste de Jean Dominique de Zuniga et Fonseca,
comte de INIonterey, gouverneur des Pays-Bas
Espagnols.

Buste d'un jeune personnage de liaut rang; il est
decore de I'ordre du Saint Es])rit.

Quinten Matsys ; statue de grandeur naturelle.

Buste du Roi.

Deux Bustes en marbro blanc et noir.

Vue de Flandre. Sur le devant se troiivent des

fumeurs ; le fond est un paysage.
Le commerce et la prosperitc publique font (leu-

rir Ics beaux-arts.
Les sept auvres de Misericorde.

Le martyre de Ste. Catbcrine. Escjuisse tir-

min<?e.
Des possedes et des malades prennent leur rc-

cours au toinbeau d'un saint. Esijuisse.

Portrait de forme ovale.
La Sainte Vicrge et I'enfant .Tesus.
Saint Cbristopiie portant I'Enfant divin sur ses
epaules. Figures a mi-corps.

APPENDIX. 195

No.

Artist's Name.

Description.

241

HoREMANS, le Vieux, il vivait vers

L'Abbe de St. Michel et M. le Bourguemestre

la fin du 17* siecle.

rendent visite au corps du serment de I'es-
crime.

242

Jean Peeters

Mer calme ; on y voit un vaisseau a I'ancre, un
yacht faisant voile et un bateau pecheur.

243

BiLTIUS

Un poulailler.

244

GuiLLAUME Jacq. Herreyns, ne a

Portrait de J. Ghesquiere, de I'Abbaye de Ton-

Anvers le 10 Jiiin, 1743, mort

gerlo.

dans la meme villa le 10 Aout,

1827; Directeuy de cette Aca-

demic.

245

Portrait de Jacq. Buens, de la meme abbaye.

246

Ferdinand de Braekeleer, Artiste

Les Anversois se defendent contre les Espagnols

vivant.

qui veulent piller leur ville, le 4 Novembre,
1576.
Ce tableau, acquis par la regence, a ete par elle
place au IMusee.

247

Mathieu Tgn. Van Bree, ne a An-

Mort de Pierre Paul Rubens, le 30 Mai, 1640.

vers le 22 Fevrier, 1773, mort

11 etait age de 62 ans et 11 mois.

dans la meme ville le 15 Decein-

Le Roi Guillaume a fait don de ce tableau au

bre, 1839, premier Professeur a

Musee.

I'Academie depuis 1803 jusqu'en

8127 ; Direeteur depuis cette epo-

que jusqu'a son deces.

248

Inconnu

Un portrait de religieux.

249

Un idem.

250

Pennemaekers, le Recollet, le Vieux

L' Ascension de Notre Seigneur.

251

Simon de Vos, mort en 1676

Ex-voto d'une familJe en priere devant I'image
de Saiute Vierge.

252

Inconnu

Buste d'Ortelius en medallion : on voit au bas
le globe qui orne les ceuvres de ce celebre geo-
graphe. 11 provient de son epitaphe a I'Ab-
baye de St. Michel.

253

Monument funeraire remain de la Famille des
Fabius. Trouve aux environs d'Anvers.

254

Statue d'Isis, don de Mr. J. B. De Witte, trouve

au Reuzen-huys a Anvers.

197

II.

CATALOGUE OF PAINTINGS, MUSEE ROYAL,

BRUSSELS.

ECOLES FLAMANDE, HOLLANDAISE, ET ALLEMANDE.

No.

Artist's Name.

Description.

Artois (Jacques van), ne a Brux-
elles en 1613, mort en 1665.

Paysage, scene d'hiver.

Paysage forestier, pris au declin du jour.

Paysage boise.

Abtois(van), De Crater et Segers.

Conversion de Saint Hubert.

AssELiN, ne a Anvers en 1610, mort
a Amsterdam en 1660; eleve
d'Isaac Van Ostade.

Paysage d'ltalie.

Bachuyzen (Louis), ne a Embde en
1631, mort a Amsterdam en 1709;
eleve d'Everdingen.

Vue marine.

Backereel (Gilles), ne a Anvers en
1572, mort en ... .

Adoration des bergers.

Vision de Saint Felix.

Saint Antoine de Padoue portant I'enfant Jesus
et le Saint Sacrement.

Beggyn (Abraham), Hollandais, ne
en 1650, mort a Berlin en 1708.

Marine des environs de Naples.

Berghem (Nicolas Klaes, dit), ne
a Harlem en 1624, mort dans la
meme ville en 1683.

Paysage ; site d'ltalie.

BoL (Ferdinand), n6 a Dordrecht

Un vieillard qui etudie, le coude appuye snr une

en 1611, mort a Amsterdam en

table ou I'on remarque un grand livre, une

1681 ; eleve de Rembrandt.

sphere et une tete de mort.

BOSSCHAERT (WiLLEBRORD), ne a

Des anges annoncent a Abraham la naissance

Berg-op-Zoom en 1613, mort a

d'Isaac,

Anvers en 1656 ; eleve de Gerard

Segers.

Brauwer(Adrien), ne a Audenarde
en 1608, mort a Anvers en 1640;
eleve de Fran9ois Hals.

Eispute grotesque de joueurs de cartes.

198

APPENDIX.

No.

Artist's Name.

Description.

Breughel (Abraham), ne a Anvers
en 1672, mort en 1720.

Bouquet de flcurs.

Breughel (Jean, dit de Velour, et

L'Abondance et I'Amour repandant leurs dons

Van Baelen), ne a Bruxelles en

sur la terre.

1589, mort a Anvers en 1642. Ne

a Anvers en 1562, mort en 1638,

BREYDEL(le Chevalier Charles), ni
a Anvers en 1677, mort a Gand en
1744.

Choc de cavalerie.

Idem.

Champagne (J. B. van), ne a Brux-
elles en 1643, mort en 1688; eleve
de Philippe Van Champagne.

Assoinption de la Vierge.

Champagne (Philippe van), ne a
Bruxelles en 1602, mort a Paris
en 1674; eleve de Fouquieres.

Portrait de Saint Charles Borrom^e.

Sainte Genevieve de Brabant.

Saint Joseph.

Saint Etienne.

Saint Ambroise.

Presentation au temple.

Saint Benoit dans la grotte.

Saint Benoit visite par un prefre.

Le pain empoisonne.

Saint Benoit fait jaillir une fontalne par a force
de sa priere.

Saint Maur retirant Placide de I'eau.

La hache perdue (jui se rattache a son manche.

Le demon chasse d'unc pierre.

L'incendie imaginaire.

L'enfant ressuscite.

Sainte Scolastique visitee par Sainte Benoit.

Cochels (Joseph)

Retour de la chasse an cerf.

CoENE (C). ne a Vilvorde en 1780,

Soldat de la bataille de Waterloo, rentrant dans

mort a Bruxelles en 1841.

la maison jjaternelle.

CoppENs, ne a Bruxelles au 17*^
siecle.

Portrait de I'auteur.

CossiERs (Jean), ne a Anvers en
1603, mort en 1652; eleve de
Corneille Devos.

Le deluge universe!.

La sainte fainille.

CoxiE (Michel van), n6 a. Malines
en 1499, mort en 1592; 61eve de
Van Orley.

Le couronnemcnt d'l'pines.

La cene. Tableau avec volets. L'un des volels
represente le Christ lavant les pieds des apotres,
et I'autre le Christ au Jardin des Olives.

Craesheke( Joseph van), ne a Brux-
elles en 1608, mort en 1688 ; eleve
d'Adrien Brauwer.

Tabagie flamandc.

Dankeks van By (Pierre), ne a

Portrait du matlu'maticicn Dow, oncle de Ge-

Amsterdam en 1605, mort a Stoek-

rard Dow.

holin en 1659.

APPENDIX. 199

No.

Artist's Name.

Description.

Bankers van Rt

Portrait de la femme de Gerard Dow.

De Baets (Ange), ne a Evergem,
pres de Gand, en 1793.

Interieur de I'eglise Saint Bavon, a Gand.

De Bonsletter (A.).

Paysage ; vue des environs de Rome.

De Brackeleer (pERDiNANn), ne a
Anvers en 1792.

Vue interieure de la ville d'Anvers.

De Caisne (Henri), ne a Bruxelles
en 1799.

Agar dans le desert.

Sapho.

De Cauwer, ne a Beveren en ... .

Plusieurs blesses de la bataille de Waterloo dans
I'int^rieur d'une ferme.

De Klerck (Henri), nea Anvers en
1570, mort en 1629; eleve de
Martin Devos.

Le Seigneur appelant a lui les petits enfans.

Une sainte famille.

De Coninck (Jacques), ne a Harlem
en 1 650, mort en 1 709 ; ^leve
d'Adrien Vandevelde.

Vue de Hollande; paysage.

De Crayer (Gaspard), ne a Anvers
en 1582, mort en 1669; eleve de
Raphael Coxie.

Peche miraculeusc de St. Pierre.

Assomption de Sainte Catherine.

Apparition de la Vierge a Saint Bernard.

Martyre de Saint Blaise

Conversion de Saint Julien.

Le Chevalier Donglebert et sa femme en adora-
tion devant le Christ mort.

Saint Paul et Saint Antoine.

Saint Paul ermite, avant sa conversion.

Saint Paul apres son martyre.

Saint Antoine et Saint Paul, ermites.

Martyre de Sainte Apolline.

La sainte famille.

Portrait d'un moine de I'ordre des Augustins. |
(Le fond est un paysage.)

De Jonghe (J. B.), ne a Courtrai
en 1785.

Paysage ; vue prise aux environs de Tournai.

De Landtsheere (Jean), pere, ne
a Baesrode en 1750, mort a Brux-
elles en 1828.

Venus coupant les ailes a 1' Amour.

De Landtsheere (J. B. ), fils, ne
a Bruxelles en 1797.

Tancrede blesse et soigne par Herminie.

Delvaux (Ed.), ne a Bruxelles en
1806.

Paysage montagneux. Coup de vent.

Delvaux (Ferdinand), n^ a Brux-
elles en 1782, mort a Bologne en
1815.

Interieur du cloitre des Chartreux a Rome.

Interieur d'un convent de femmes a Rome.

Denis (Simon Joseph Alexandre

Combat de deux taureaux. Effet de soleil ecu-

Clement), ne a Anvers en 1755,

chant.

mort a Naples en 1813.

De Noter (P. F. ), ne a Walhem en
1779, mort en 1842.

Vue prise a Bruges.

200

APPENDIX.

No.

Artist's Name.

80
81

84
85

89*
90

91
92

93
94

97
98

De Noter

De Roi (J. B.), n6 a Bruxelles en
1759, mort en 1839.

Devadder (Louis), ne a Bruxelles

en 1560, moit en 16U'.i.
Devigne (Felix), n6 a Gand en

1806.
Devos (Maktin), ne a Anvers en

1524, mort en 1604; eleve de

Pierre Devos, son pere, et de Franck

Floris.
Devries (Ferdinand), ne a Leeu-

waerden en 1527, mort en 1588.
De Wit (Emmanuel), n^ a Alcmaer,

en 1607, mort en 1692; eleve

d'Evrard Van Alst.
DiETRicv (GuiLLAUME Ernest), ne

a Weimar en 1712, mort a Dresde

en 1774.
Dow (Gerard), ne a Leyde en 1 13,

mort en 1680; eleve de Rem-
brandt.
DucQ (Joseph Francois), ne a Le-

deghem en 1762, mort a Bruges

en 1829.
Du CoRRON (J.), ne a Ath en 1770.

Faber (F.), ne a Bruxelles en 1782,

mort en 1844.
Fabrique ( Nicolas la), ne a Namur

vers la fin du 17*= siecle, mort en

1736.
Floris (Franck), de Vriendt

(FRAN90IS, dit), ne a Anvers en

1520, mort en 1570; eleve de

Lambert Lombard.

Description.

Franck (Jean Baptiste), ne a An-
vers en 1600, mort en 1653 ; eleve
de son pere, Sebastien Franck.

Francois (P. J. C. ) pere, ne a
Namur en 1759.

Geernaerts

Hivcr ; vue prise du Pont Neuf a Gand.
L'^glise de Saint Nicolas, a Gand, vue du March^-

aux- Grains.
Un nombreux convoi de bestiaux destines a

I'armee.
Paysage avcc bestiaux. Effet de brouillard.
Paysage boise.

Les amours d'Abrocome ct de la belle Anthia.

Portrait.

Chasse au cerf dans un chemin creux et boise.

Interieur de I'eglise de Delft.

Portrait de ce Peintre.

Gerard Dow dessinant a la faible lueur dune
lampe d'apres un Amour de Duquesnoy.

Venus sortant des eaux.

Vue prise aux environs d'Irchonwelz, pres de

Chievres, province de Ilainaut.
Paysage ; clair de lune.
Repos d'un ouvrier.

Un jeune homme examine avec attention une
piece d'or qu'il tient dans le crcux de sa main.

Le Jugement dernier.

Altercation entre deux jeunes epoux.

L'enfant Jesus, couche dans son berceau, tend les
bras a la Sainte Vierge a genoux <\m va I'em-
brasser. Saint Joseph contemple cette scene
d'amour avec respect.

Decollation de Saint Jean.

Marius assis sur ks mines ile Carthage.

Le Seigneur et ses (liscii)les a I'maiis ; grisaille.
Le Seigneur chez Simon le Piiarisien ; grisaille.

APPENDIX.

201

No.

100
101
102
103
104

105

106

107

108

109
110

111

112
113

114

115

116
117
118

119

120
121
122

123

124

125

Artist's Kair.e.

Geeunaf.uts

Goi.zius (Hubert), ne a Veiiloo en
1520, mort a Bruges en 1583.

IIkksi (David be), ne ii Utrecht en
1570, mort en 1632.

Hellejians (P. J.), lie a Briixelles
en 1787.

Hemskerke( Egbert, clit le Paysan),
ne a Hark-m en 1610, mort en
1680.

Herkegouts, ne ii Malines en 1666,
mort a Anvers en 1724.

Holbein (Jean), ne a Bale en 1498,
mort a Londres en 1554; eleve de
son pere, Jean Holbein.

HuvsMAN (CoRNEiLLE, dit de Ma-
lines), ne a Anvers en 1648, mort
en 1727 ; eleve de Jacques Artois.

Janssens (Abrahaji), ne a Anvers
en 1569, mort en 1631.

Janssens (ViCTOR Honoue), He a
Bruxelles en 1664, mort en 1739.

Description.

JoLLV ( A. E. ), ne a Bruxelles.
JoRDAENS (Jacques), ne a Anvers en

] .•)94, mort en 1 678 ; eleve d' Adam

Van Oort et de llubens.

Klomp (Albert), Hollandais, vivait
en 1636.

Koeberger (Wenceslas), ne a An-
vers en 1560, mort en 1630; eleve
de Martin Devos

Kuvp (Benjajiin), nu a Dordrecht
en 1603, mort vers la fin du 17*-'
siecle.

Les flls d' Aaron punis par le feu du ciel ; gri-
saille.
La femme adultere ; grisaille.
Abraham et Melcliisedech ; grisaille
Le sacrifice d'Abrabam; grisaille.
Le sacrifice d'Elie ; grisaille.
Portrait de fennne.

Bouquet de fleurs.

A'ue prise sur la lisiere du bois de Solgnes, chaus-

see de Namur.
Paysage; vue d'un moulln a eau ; figures et

bjtail.
LUerieur d'un cabaret flamand.

Saint Jeiome dans le desert.
Portrait de Thomas Morus.

Paysage.

La Foi et I'Esperance soutieiment la Vieillesse
contre les fatigues du temps.

Des anges presentent le cordon de I'ordre des
Chartreux a Saint Bruno, pendant une appari-
tion de la Vierge.

Saint Charles Borromee priant pour les pesti-
feres.

Didon, accompagnee de sa soeur, faisant batir
Carthage.

Sacrifice d'Enee arrivant a Carthage.

Zampiero et Vanina.

Saint ]Martin guerissant un possede.

Tableau allegorique des dons et des occupations

de I'Automne.
Letriomph^du Prince Frederic Henri de Nassau.
Tete d'apotre priant Dieu. (Esquisse.)
Scene rurale, entree de ferme.

Apparition des anges aux bergers devant leurs

tentes, pour annoncer la naissance du Messie.
Le Christ porte au tombeau.

L' Adoration des mages.

202

APPENDIX.

No.

Artist's Name.

Description.

126

Klyp (Jacob Gerritz), i.e a Dor-
dreclit en 1578, inert en 1642;
eleve d' Abraham Bloeinaert

Paysage.

127

Lairesse (Gerard ue), ni- a Liiirc
en 1640, mort a Amsterdam en
1711; eleve de son pere, Kenier
de Lairesse.

La mort de Pyrrhus.

128

Leks( Andre), ne a .Xnvers en 1739,
mort a Bruxelles en 1822; eleve
de Pierre Eyckens le Vieiix et de
Balthazar Besschey.

Dalila coupant les chcveux a Samson.

129

Lens (Jacques), ne k Anvers vers
1 746, mort en

Portrait de I'empereur Leopold

130

LiNGELBACH (Jean), ne a Frankfort-
sur-le-Mein en 1625, mort a Am-
sterdam en 1687.

Vue de la Place du Peuple a Rome.

131

LooTEN (Jean), ne a Amsterdam en
. . . ., mort en 1681.

Paysage boise.

132

Llcas Franchovs (le Vieux), dit
FRAN901S, ne a Malines en 1574,
mort en 1 643.

Portrait de Phideqie, sculpteur flamand

133

I\L\THiEU (Louis), ne a Champion

3Lirie de Bourgogne tombant de cheval a

(Luxembourg) en 1805.

chasse.

134

Meert (Pieiirk), ne a Bruxelles en

Portrait des anciens magistrats de Bruxelles

1618, mort en 1669.

1600.

135

Mile (Francois), ne a Anvers en

Repos de la Sainte Famille pendant la fuite

1643, mort a Paris en 1680; eleve

Egypte.

de Laurent Franckeii.

13rt

^Iolenaer, i\6 a Anvers en 1540,
mort en 1589.

Tabagie flamande.

137

Idem.

133

JMo.MMERs (Henri), ne a Harlem en
1623, mort en 1697.

Un marche aux lierbes.

139

MoREELSE (Paul), ne a Utrecht en

Portrait d'un honnne tenant unc pomme dans

1571, mort en 1638; eleve de

main droite.

.Alichel :Mirevelt.

140

3I0UCIIERON (Lsaac Van), ne a Am-
sterdam en 1670, mort en 1744.

Paysage Areadien.

Paysage garni de haute futaic ct entrecoupe
montagnes.

142

Nason (Pierre), Ilollandais, vivait

Portrait du Prince d'Orange, gouverneur

en 1639.

Bresil.

143

Navez (F. J.), ne X Charleroi en
1787.

Portrait d'Engelspach-Larivierc.

144

Agar dans le deseri.

113

Neefs (Pierre), ne a Anvers en
1570, mort en 1639.

Iiiterieur de la Cathedrale d'Anvers.

146

NoEi,, ne a Waulsort-siir-Meuse en
1789, mort en 1822.

Station de cavalerie.

Odevaere (JosEi'ii Denis), ne a
Bruf^es en 1778, mort en 1830;
d-leve de Suvee et de David.

Victoirc navale de C'anaris sur les Ottomans.

148

Les .Atlic'iiiens s'embarqiiant pour Salaniines.

APPENDIX. 203

No.

Artist's Name.

Description.

149

Ommegang (B. Paul), ne a Anvers
en 1755, mort en 1826.

Paysage dcs Ardennes.

150

Paelinck (Madame), nee Horg-

NIKS.

Sujet tire de Lamartine,

151

Palamede Stevens (Antoine), ne
a Delft en 1607, mort en 1638.

Portrait d'homme

152

PouRBUS, n6 a Bruges en 1540, mort
en 1580; eleve de Franck Flore.

Portrait d'homme.

153

QuiLLiN (Ekasme), le vieux, ne a
Anvers en 1607, mort en 1678;
tleve de Kubens.

Charles Borromee, archeveque de jNIilan.

154

Un statue en grisaille, representant le Sanveur
sur un fond d'architecture, eiitoure de Heurs
peintes par Segcrs pere.

155

Rembkandt (Paul), dit Van Uvn,
ne pres de Leyde en 1606, mort a
Amsterdam en 1674 ; eleve de
Zwanenburg.

Portrait d'liomme.

156

Revkaeut (David), le Jeune, ne a
Anvers en 1615, mort en 1677;
eleve de son pere.

Chimisfe dans son laboratoire.

157

liiCQUiEB (L.), ne a Anvers en 1795

Une famille de brigands.

158

RoBBE (Louis), ne a Courtrai en

Animaux au paturage, vue prise aux environs de

1807.

Courtrai.

159

Roos (Jean Henki), dit Rosa de
TivoLi, ne a Otterberg, dans le
Palatinat, en 1631, mort en 1685,
eleve de Julien Dujardin.

Pasteur assis.

100

Rubens (Pierre Paul), ne a Co-

Le .Seigneur voulant foudroyer le monde.

logne en 1577, mort a Anvers en

La Vierge, a ses cotes, decouvre son sein ma-

1640; eleve d'Adam Van Oort et

ternel, et veut arreter le bras de son fils ; les

d'Otto Venius.

anges constern^s suivent le Seigneur. Saint
F"ran9ois se precipite, avec la piileur de I'effroi,
sur un globe qui figure la terre, le couvre de
son corps et de ses mains : un enorme serpent,
symbole des vices, entoure ce globe, derriere
lequel il cherche a se cacher. On apei^oit
dans le lointain I'image des crimes qui ont pro-
voque la vengeance celeste.

161

Le iVIartyre de Saint Lievin.

Sans entrerdans les details d'un affreux et degoii-
tant supplice, la pensee se pcrte avec plaisir
vers ces esprits celestes qui, armes de la foudre,
s'^lancent dii fond de niiage sur une troupe de
bourreaux et de feroces soldats. Saisis de ter-
reur, ceux-ci se precipitent les uns sur les
autres ; les clievaux se cabrent et ajoutent au
desordre. Tout est action autour de Saint
Lievin, qui parait oublier ses souffrances a
ra])parition de deux anges qui descendent vers
lui avec la palme et la couronne du mar-
tyre.

162

" "

Le Couronnement de la Vierge.

204

APPENDIX.

No.

Artist's Name.

1G:3

Rubens

IG4

IGi

Kid

Description.

La Vierge agenouilloe sur un croissant, s'elevc
au-dessus (les nuagcs; le Pere Ettriiel et son
Fils I'attcndent, ut vont poser sur son front nio-
destc la couronne immortelle. Un groupe
d'anges parait au-dessus du nuage qui soutient
la Vierge.

Station du Christ, montant au Calvaire, secouru
par Marie Miidok'ine.

Jesus Christ marclie vers Ic lieu du su])plice, en-
toure de ses bourreaux et precede d'un bruy-
ant cortege ; il est tombe de douleur et de
fatigue sous le poids d'une enorme croix ; son
divin visage, meurtri, ensanglante, regarde le
spcctateur ; il excite la pitie, touche I'ame du
pt'cheur. Sa mere et les saintes femmes qui
suivent sont navrees de douleur.

Le Christ au Tombeau.

La mere de Jesus, accompagnee dcs saintes
femmes, avait eu la Constance de restcr au Cal-
vaire pendant ces terribles instants. Saint
Jean est le seul disciple qui soit resle aiqires
d'elle ; le corps du Sauveur est couche sur un
peu de paille; on a decouvert le linceul; sa
mere en arriere le soutient ; le sang a cesse de
couler de ses plaies ; ses membres sont di'eolo-
res; la douceur des traits de son visage n'a jias
ete altert'e par son supplice. Les femmes,
Saint Jean, et Saint Francois exprimeiit leur
tristesse ; deux anges se trouvent sur le devant :
la Madeleine baissee vers la terrc, ticnt les
clous ensaiiglanti's qu'elle arrose de ses larmes.

L'adoratioii des mages.

Trois mages sont venus de I'Orient pour adorer
I'enfant Jesus ; la \'ierge le soutient debout
sur le haut d'une creche : I'un des trois mages,
richement vetu, lui pn'sente un vase remiili
d'or ; les deux autres debout, saisis d'un saint
respect, tiennent les mains croisees sm- leur
poitrine ; le mage noir, le canir penetre de
joie, regarde en souriant le divin enfant ; S;iint
Joseph se tient derriere la Vierge ; un negre et
un blanc portent cliacun un candelabre ; vers
le haut d'nn escalier, un guorrier convert d'une
cuirasse ()))])ose son bouelier a la foule cjui, du
haut d'un galerie, ehercho a penetrer dans lin-
terieur de I'rtablc. Le lieu represente une
])lacc souterraine.

L'Assomption de la Vierge.

La Salute \'ierge ([nitie la fern" sur un nuage ipii
s'eleve glorieuscment vers le elel. Les esprits
celestes, entoures d'une lumlere ('elatante. I'ae-
compagnent et le coiuiulsent vers I'eternel se.
jour. Les saintes femmes, ses compagnes, ne

APPENDIX.

205

No.

Artist's Name.

1G7
If; 8
169

170

Rubens -

RtiysnAEL (Jacques), ne a Harlem
en 1640, mort a Amsterdam en
1681.

Sallaekt (Antoine), ne a Brux-
elles en 1570, mort en 1632.

171
172

173

174

175

Descrijjtion.

ScARON (Alexandre), ne a Brux-
elles.

trouvent plus dans sa tombe que quelques fleurs.
Les apotres, frappt's d'adniiratlon et interdits,
suivent la Vierge des yeiix.

Portrait demi-corps de rArchidiic Albert.

Portrait demi-corps de I'liifante Isabelle.

Paysage, avee une piece d'cau entouree d'une fo-
re t.

Procession des corps de metiers de Briixelles,
sur la Grande Place, en 1 620.

Les differens corps de metiers, avee leurs en-
seignes, y marchent en file. On y troiive in-
dique le nombre de maitres dont se composait
chaqiie metier a cette epoque. La vue repr6-
sente une partie de la Grande Place; Ton re-
marque des maisons baties en bois.

Suite de cette procession.

Solennite du tir a I'arbalete.

Ce tableau rapjielle le souvenir du jour oii, en
1615, r Infante Isabelle, souveraine des Pays-
Bas, abattit d'un coup d'arbalcte I'oiseau eleve
a la hauteur de la fleche de I'eglise du Sablon.
L'Infante, et son 6poux, I'Archiduc Albert, s'y
trouvent places sur une estrade, I'arbalete a la
main ; le doyen, a la tete du grand serment,
leur presente son hommage. Toute la cour as-
siste a cette fete ; un peuple immense borde le
chemin par lequel les corps de serments avancent
precedes de leur musiques.

Procession de TOmmegang, a Bruxelles.

Ce tableau fait suite au precedent. L'Infant Isa-
belle ayant re^u du raagistrat de Bruxelles,
comme reine du grand serment, un don de
25,000 florins, employa cette somme a une fon-
dation au Sablon, en faveur de douze jeunes
filles, a chacune desquelles etait destinee une
dot, dont la collation se renouvelait tons les
ans. La procession representee dans ce ta-
bleau a ete institute en memoire de cet evene-
ment ; les douze jeunes pucelles, uniforme-
ment vetues en blanc, et tenant un cierge a la
main, precedent le cierge de cette eglise, I'ar-
chiduc, I'archiduchesse, les siegneurs et les
dames de la cour.

Allegorie de la Passion du Christ.

Deux angessoutiennent sur une draperie I'enfant
Jesus debout, portant sa croix et montrant de
la main droite une gloire celeste dont les
rayons re])rL'scntent, dans les interstices, les
principaux episodes de la vie et de la passion du
Seigneur.

Vase de Fleurs.

206

APPENDIX.

No.

Artist's Name.

Description.

176

SCHAEPKKNS (Thkoijouk), iic a Mac-
stricht en 1810.

La prise de Maestricht en 1579.

177

SCHAI.KEN ( GoDKFIlOl), lie il DoF-

Un jeune iiomme, vetu I'e vert et coifTe d'une

drecht en \C>15, nioit en 1706;

toque noire, tient un flamljeau et sanuise a

eleve de Sanuiel \'an Iloogstraten

faire tomber de la cire fondue sur 1111 plateau.

ct de G. l)j\v.

178

ScuouwAF.iiTs, de 15ruxellc's

Marche aux poissons.

179

Le bocuf gras.

180

ScHUT (Cohkeille), ne a Aiivers en

Esqnisse du tableau du martyre de Saint

1590, mort en 1676; eleve de Ru-

Jacques.

I)ens.

181

SciiuT (Corneille) et Segeiis, Pere

Portrait de la Sainte Vierge entouree de guir-
landes de fleurs supportees par des anges.

182

SciiwARTs (Ciiristophe), He a Mu-

Vuleain montrant a Tassembiee des dieux Mars

nich en 1550, mort en 1594.

et Venus, qu'il a surpris ensemble.

183

Segers (Daniel), I'ere, ne a An-
vers en 1590, mort en 1661.

Bouquet.

181

81EBRECHS (Jean), ne a Anvers en
1625, mort en 1686.

Scene matinale de travaux rusticjues.

185

SiiEYERS (GiLLEs). He ii Malincs en
1635, mort en 1710.

Saint Norbert consacrant deux diacres.

186

La mort de Saint Norbert.

187

SNEvnERs ( Francois), ne a Anvers

Sur line longue table sont etalc's un cygiie, uii

en 1579, mort dans la mfime ville

chevreuil, un paon, un homard, (pielciiies pieces

en 1657; eleve de Henri Van

de gibier, des fruits, et des legumes de diffe-

Baelen

rentes especes.

18S

SooLMAKEii (J. F. ), ne vers le IT^
siecle.

Reconciliation de Jacob et d'Esaii.

189

" ~

Fontaine entoun'e de troupeaux, au milieu (rim
paysage d'ltalie.

190

Stomme (M. H. ), nc vers le 16''

Sur une table couverte d'une nappe, sont repre-

siecle

sentes un verre, une cniche renversi'e, un plat
sur leqiiel est un poisson grille, un couteau, et
(juelqiies aiitres objets.

191

.St.)oi> (Thierry), ne a Dordrecht,
florissait en 1651.

Vue d'lin jiaysago d'ltalie.

192

Halte de postilion.

19.}

Teniicrs (David), le .leiine, ne a
Anvers en 1610, mort a Hnixelles
en 169 I ; eleve de son pere et d'A-
diien Hranwer.

Le devant d'une maison nistlciiie.

191

Thvs (I'lERui:), ne a Anvers en
1625, mort en 1682.

Le martyre de Saint Guiilaume.

195

Portrait d'une femine vetue de noir, la main
gauche appiiyee sur le dossie d'une chaise.

196

Tii.iiORcn (Gh.i.es Van), ne a Rrux-

Les Princes de Ligne, de Chimay, <le Kiihem-

elles en 1625, mort en 1678.

l)ri', de la Tour-Taxis, et le Due d'Arenbi'ig,
tousacheval, et en grand costume de chevalier
de la toisoii d'or, sortent du palais des Dues
de Brabant. ( L'ancicime cour bniUe en
1731.)

197

VAN'.Xsi.oor ( DiOMi.), lie ;i Hriix-

Uepresentation lopograpliique des ci-devant pare

elles en I57(), moit eii 1620.

et chateau de .Mai ii'iiioiit.

APPENDIX.

207

No,

Artist's Name.

198

199
200

201

202
203

204

205

206
207

208
209
210

211

212

213
214
215
216

217
218
219
220

Van Assche (Henri), ni a Brux-
elles en 1775, inort en 1841.

Van Bree (Mathieu), ne a Anvers

en 1773, niort en 1839.
Van Bree (Philippe), ne a Anvers

en 1786.

Vandenheuvel (Antoine), ne a
Gand, au commencement du 17''
siecle, mort en 1677; eleve de
Gaspard de Crayer.

Vanderavond (Pierre), ne a An-
vers vers 1619, mort en ... .

Vander Helst, ne a Harlem en
1613, mort a Amsterdam en 1671.

Vandermuelen, ne a Bruxelles en

1634, mort a Paris en 1690;

eleve de Pierre Snayers.
Vanderplas (Pierre), ne a Harlem

en 1570, mort a Bruxelles en 1626.
Vander Poorten (Henri), ne a

Anvers en 1789.
Vandervinne (ViNc. Laur.), dit Le

Napolitain, ne a Harlem en 1629,

mort en 1702.
Vandiepenbeck (Abraham), ne a

Bois-le-Duc en 1607, mort en

1675 ; eleve de Rubens.
Van Dyck (Antoine), ne a Anvers

en 1599, mort a Londres en 1641 ;

eleve de Henri Van Baelen et de

Rubens.

Description.

Van Dyck (Philippe), ne a Amster-
dam en 1 680, mort en 1 752.

Van Everdingen (Cesar), ne a
Alcmaer en 160S, mort en 1679.

Van Heil (Daniel), ne a Bruxelles
en 1604, mort en 1662.

Cascade formee par la Toccia, dans la vallee du

meme nom, canton du Tessin (Suisse Ita-

lienne).
Paysage.
Portrait en pied de Guillaume Premier, roi des

Pays Bas.
Interieur de Trglise Saint Pierre a Rome, le

jour de la Fete-Dieu.
Sixte-Quint, lorsqu'il etait encore patre.
Le martyre de Saintc Amelie.
La saiiite, percee d'une lance qui s'est brisee dans

la plaie, est representee etendue mort a terre ;

le soldat, qui I'a tuee, montre d'un geste mena-

^ant sa jeune victime a une femine tenant une

petite fille a la main, ct qui recule d'effroi.

Derrieie, se trouvent deux pretres paiens. Un

ange descend vers la sainte.
Assomption de la Vierge.

Portrait de I'Auteur.

Portrait de la femme de Vander Heist.
Siege de Tournai par Louis XIV.

La Sainte Vierge et I'Enfant Jesus, entoures des

doiiateurs de qui provient ce tableau.
Paysage orne de figures et de betail.

L'ange apparait a Saint Pierre, et le delivre de
la prison.

Saint Fran9ois adorant le saint Sacrement.

Le Christ en croix.

Saint Antoine de Padoue tenant I'Enfant Jesus.
Saint Francois en extase devant le crucifix.
Le martyre de Saint Pierre.
Esquisse heurtee de la tete du juif presentant le

roseau dans le tableau du couronneinent d'e-

pines de ce maitre.
Vieux Silene, ivre, soutenu par un berger et une

bacchante.
Portrait d'une dame, vetue du bleu.

Jeune femme se coiffant devant une glace.

Incendie a Anvers.

208

APPENDIX.

No.

Artist's Name.

Description.

221

Van IIeil

Hiver, scene de patineurs.

222

Incendie en 1731 de I'ancienne cour dii Pa-
lais Royal, qui occnpait autrefois le terrain
oil se trouvent maiutenant les deux {grands
pavilions de la I'lace- Royale du cote du Pare,

22.'}

~ ~

Incendie d'une maison situ,^'e Grand Place, a
cote de la rue de la Tete d'Or, oii a ete batie
depuis la maison dite des Merciers.

224

Vue des batiments do lavieille cour a Bruxelles,
dii cote de I'Oranjjerie.

225

Vue de Bruxelles clans son aiieienne enceinte,
prise sur les hauteurs de la porte de Flandre.

226

Van Hekp (N.)

Saint Nicolas Tolentin.

227

Van Hugtenburgh (Jean), ne a
Ilarlcm en 1646, niort a Amster-
dam en 1733.

Choc de cavalerie.

228

Van Loon (Theodoiik), nc a Brux-
elles en 1629, mort dans la meme
villa en 1678.

Adoration des bergers.

229

Assomption de la Viergc.

2:50

Adoration des bergers.

231

Van Nikkele (Isaac), no vers le
16'^ siecle.

Vue inteiieure de la grande eglise de Harlem.

232

Van Nieuwlandt (Adiuen), mort

Le carnaval sous Tun des bastions de la ville

en 1601.

d' An vers.

233

Van Ravenstein (Jean), ne a la

Portrait de Kinna ^'an Ilasselaer, heroine (|ui

Hayeen 1580, moit eu 1649.

def'eiulit Harlem contre les Espagnols, en
1572.
Fruits.

234

Van Son (Jean), ne a Anvers en

1661, mort a Londres en 1723;

eleve de son pcre.

235

Van Tuui.den (Tiieodoue), ne a
Bois-le-Uuc en 1607, mort en
1686; eleve de P. 1'. llubens.

Orgies pendant une kermesse de village.

236

Le Christ a la colonne.

237

Venius (Gertrude), fiUe d'Otto Ve-
nius.

Portrait du i)eintre Otto Venius.

238

Venius (Otto), ne a T.eyde en 1556,
mort a Bruxelles en 1636; eleve
d'Isaac Swanenbmg, maitre de
Rubens.

Le portement de la croix.

239

Le Christ an Calvaire.

240

Le Sainte Famille.

241

Le Cln-ist deseendu de la croix entre les saintes
fennnes et Saint .Jean (copie iPapres Hapliael).

242

Vekh)E( kiioven (Eugene), ne a.
VVarneton, en 1799.

L'n froiipean de moiituns battu ])ar une averse.

243

Vekhoom (Adrien), ne a Harlem,
vivait en 1690.

Le depart jjour la cliasse.

244

Veriiaegen (Rierre-Joseph), n6 a
Aerseliot en 17'JH, moit en 1811.

L'adoration des mages.

245

Vkrvi.oet (!•".), de Malines

Le eloitre de Sainte Marie-la-Neuve, a Naples.

' (Moines I'ranciscains.)

APPENDIX.

209

No.

246
247
248
249

250

251
252

Artist's Name.

VlEILLEVOYE ( PiERRE-JoSEPH-Ce-

lestin), ne a Verviers en 1798.

VooRDECKER (Henri), lie a Brux-
elles en 1779.

Weenincx (Jean-Baptiste), ne a
Amsterdam en 1621, mort en 1660.

WouvERMANs (Pierre), ne a Har-
lem en 1626, mort en 1683; eleve
de son frere Philippe.

WvNANDTs (Jean), ne a Harlem en
1600, mort en 1662.

Description.

Tete d'etude de vieillard.
Vue du village et de la chapelle de Waterloo.
Portrait d'une dame assise devant un miroir.
Manege au pied d'un rempart.

Paysage.

Pay .sage sablonneux.

ECOLES ITALIENNE ET ESPAGNOLE.

253

254

255
256

257

258
259

260
261

262

Albane (Francesco Albani), ne a
Bologne en 1578, mort en 1660;
eleve des Carrache. (Ecole Bolo-
naise.)

Barrochio d'Urbin (Feperigo Ba-
Rocci ou FioRi), ne a Urbin en
1528, mort en 1612. (Ecole Ro-
maine. )

Bassan (Leandro), ne en 1558,
mort en 1623. (Ecole Venitienne.)

Bassan (Bassano-Jacopo da Ponte,
dit le), ne en 1510, mort en 1592;
eleve de Francesco da Ponte son
pere. (Ecole Venitienne.)

Calabrese (Mattia Pketi, dlt le),
ne a Taverna dans le royaume de
Naples, en 1613, mort a Malte en
1699; eleve de Guerchin. (Ecole
Napolitaine. )

Canaletto (Antonio Canal, dit),
ne a Venise en 1597, mort en 1668 ;
eleve de Bernardo Canal son pere.
(Ecole Venitienne.)

Castiglione (Giovanni- Be NEnETTo),
ne a Genes en 1616, mort a Man-
toue en 1670. (Ecole Genoise. )

CiGOLi (LoDOvico Cardi da), ne en
1559, mort en 1613; eleve de
Sandi di Tito. (Ecole Florentine.)

Adam, assis et s'appuyant sur la main droite, re-
9oit la pomme qu'Eve lui presente.

Le Christ appelant a lui Saint Pierre et Saint
Simon.

Ascension du Christ.

Le Christ au tombeau. (Copie.)

Les costumes bizarres et les physionomies des
personnages n ont jjas permis de reconnaitre le
sujet de ce tableau.

Job visite par ses amis.
Vue de la Brenta.

Interieur de I'eglise Saint- Marc, a Venise.
Portrait de vieillard.

La Vierge soutenant I'enfant Jesus derriere le^
quel se trouve le jeune Saint Jean.

E E

210

APPENDIX.

No.

Artist's Name.

Description.

263

Ferrari (Gaudenzio), ne en 1484 a
\'aldugia, vallue de la Sesia, mort
en 1550. (Ecole Milanaise. )

La Sainte Vierge.

264

GiORGios (Giorgio Barbakf.lli, dit
le), ne a Castel- Franco en 1477,
mort en 151 1 ; t-leve de Jean Bel-
Jin. (Ecole Venitienne. )

Portrait de jeune homme.

265

Giotto, ne a Florence en 1276, mort
en 1336. (Ecole Florentine.)

Le Calvaire.

266

GuERcHiN (Gio-Francesco-Barbi-
ERi, dit le), ne a Cento en 1590,
mort en 1666; eleve de Cremonini

Un ex-voto.

et de Benedetto. (Ecole Bolonaise.)

267

Guide ( Reni Guido, dit le), ne a
Bologne en 1575, mort en 1642.
11 passa de I'ecole de Denis Cal-
vart dans celle des Carrache. (Ecole
Bolonaise.)

La fuite en Egypte.

268

Sibylle inspiree par un genie.

269

Mauatte (Carlo Maratta ou Ma-
RATTi), ne a Camanero di Ancona
en 1625, mort en 1713 ; eleve
d' Andrea Sacchi. (Ecole Ro-
maine. )

Apollon et Daphne.

S70

Saint Francois adorant I'enfant Jesus.

271

Pai.me le Vieux (Jacopo Palma),
ne a Serinalta en 1540, inort en
1588 ; eleve de Titien. (Ecole Ve-
nitienne.)

Le Christ au tombeau.

272

Pamni (Jean-Paul), ne a Plaisance
en 1678, mort en 1740. (Ecole
Romaine. )

Ruines et monuments de Rome.

273

Perugin (PiETRo Vannucci, dit
le), ne a Castcl della Pieve di Pe-
rugia en 1446, mort en 1524.
(Ecole Romaine.)

Madone.

274

Procaocini (Giulio-Cesare), n6 a

Saint Sebastien prot<^ge par des anges qui de-

Bologne vers 1548, mort vers

tournent les flcches de son mart) re.

1626. (Ecoles bolonaise et mila-

naise. )

275

Sagoro (Ecole Lombarde.)

Le Christ mort pres de la Sainte Vierge et des
Saints Personnages.

276

Sasso Ferkato (Gio- Batista Sal-

Tete de Madone, les yeux baisses, couverte d'un

VI da), ne en 1605, mort en 1685.

voile.

(Ecole Romaine.)

277

'I'lNTORKT (JaCOI'O RoBUSTl, dit le),

ne a Venise en 1512, mort en 1594.
( Ecole Venitienne. )

Le martyre de Saint Marc. (Esquisse.)

278

TiTiEN (Tiziano VicELLio), nc a

Portrait de jeune bomme vetu d'nne robe de sole

("adore en 1477, mort en 1576.

noire.

(Ecole Venitienne.)

279

Portrait de vieillard, costume en robe bordec
d'une fourrure.

APPENDIX.

211

No.

Artist's Name.

Description.

280

TiTiEN (attribue a)

Le Christ chez Simon le Pharisien.

281

Velasquez (Don Diego- Rodriguez
DE Silvat), ne a Seville en 1.599,
mort en 1660. (Ek;ole Espagnole. )

Portraits de deux enfants.

282

Veronese (Paul, Paolo Caliari),

La Richesse repandant ses dons sur la vllle de

ne a Verone vers 1530, mort en

Venise.

1588. (Ecole Venitlenne.)

283

•

Adoration des Bergers.

284

Adoration de I'enfant Jesus par Sainte Cathe-
rine.

285

Les Noces de Cana.

ECOLE FRANCAISE.

286

287
288

289
290
291

292
293

294

295
296

297
298

Clouet ( FaANyois), dit Janet, vivait

en 1547.
CouRTiN (Jacques- FRAN90IS)
CouRTois (Jacques, dit le Bouii-

guignon), ne a Saint-Hippolyte,

en Franche-Comte, en 1621, mort

a Rome en 1676; ^leve de Jerome,

peintre Lorrain.
Gysels, ne a Paris en 1610, mort en

1673.
Le PoiTTEviN (Eugene), ne a Paris

en 1808.
Le Sueur (Eustache), ne a Paris

en 1617, mort en 1655; eleve de

Simon Vouet.
MiGNARD (Nicolas), ne a Troyes en

1608, mort a Paris en 1668.
Mignard (Pierre), surnomme le

RoMAiN, ne a Troyes, en Cham-
pagne, en 1610, mort a Paris en

1695 ; 61eve de Vouet.
Natier, ne a Paris en 1642, mort en

1705.
Tanneur, de Paris
Van Loo (Carle), ne a Nice en

Provence en 1705, mort a Paris en

1765.
Vautier (Alexandre)
Vouet (Simon), ne a Paris en 1582,

mort dans la meme ville en 1641.

Portrait d'Elizabeth, reine d'Angleterre.

Le Christ mort, sur les genoux de la Vierge.
Choc de cavalerie.

Un Cygne mort entour^ de gibier.
Naufrage sur la cote d'Afrique.
Le Sauveur donnant sa benediction.

Portrait d'Henriette d'Angleterre.

Portrait de femme, sous la figure de Diane
couchee.

Marie- Therese, imperatrice d'Autriche.

Vue de mer a la maree montante.
Diane et Endymion.

Portrait d'un gentilhomme du 17^ siecle.
Saint Charles- Borromee, priant pour les pesti-
feres de Milan.

212 APPENDIX.

AUTEUKS I.ACOXNUS.

No. Description.

299 Deposition du Christ au torn beau.

SOO Le Seigneur entre deux Juifs, tenant le roseau.

301 La Resurrection. ' ,

302 Le Calvaire.

503 Des anges dLtachent les fleclies du corps de Saint Sebastien. (Ecole Ita-
lienne- Lombarde. )

304 Saint Pierre.

305 Sainte Famille.

306 Saint Frangois devaiu une tete de mort tient un crucifix de la main droite.

307 Le Christ porte au tombeau.

308 Une Sainte Famille. (Ecole Lombarde.)

309 Madone.

310 Le sommeil de Jesus.

311 Sainte Famille.

312 Marthe et Marie.

313 Sainte Anne.

314 Fa9ade lat^rale de I'eglise des SS. Michel et Gudule a Bruxelles, dans son

6tat primitif.

315 Premiere assemblee du parlement de Malines en 1473, jjresidee par le due

Charles de Bourgogne.

316 Portrait de Charles le Temeraire, due de Bourgogne.

317 Portrait de Francois L

318 Portrait de I'imperatrice Marie-Th^rese.

319 Portrait en pied de I'archiduc Albert.

320 Portrait en pied de I'infante Isabelle, epouse de rarcliiduc .Mbert, g()u\er-

nante des Pays-Bas.

321 Portrait de Loquenghien, amman de Bruxelles, en Tan J 575.

322 Portrait de S. A. R. le prince Charles- Alexandre, due de Lorraine et de

Bar, gouverneur des Pays-Bas.

323 Portrait de Madame du Defiant.

324 Portrait de dame en costume du commencement du 17'' siecle.

325 Portrait d'un general commandant.

326 Portrait d'homme vu jusqu'aux genoux.
.327 Portrait d'homme.

328 Portrait de I'empereur Josepi) IL

APPENDIX.

213

No.

Artist's Name.

DL'Scvii)tioii.

TABLEAUX A N C 1 E N S.

Les tableaux designes ici sous la denomination d'anciens sont ceux qui ont ete produits avaiit
I'epoque oii les freres Van Eyck inventerent, en 1410, la maniere de peiiidre a I'huile, jusqu'a
Otto Venius, maitre de Rubens.

329

330
331

332

333

334
335
336

337

338
339
340
341
342
343

344

345
346
347

348
349
350
351
352
353
354

355

De Mabuse (Jean), ne a Maubeuge
en 1499, mort en 1562.

Grimner (Jacques), ni a Anvers en

1510, mort en . . .
Hemskekke (Martin), dit le Vieux,

ne a Hemskerke en 1498, mort en

1574.
KoECK ( Pierre d'Alost), ne a Alost

en 1500, mort en 1553; eleve de

Van Orley.
Mostard (Jacques), ne ii Harlem en

1499, mort en 1555.
Pateniers (Jean), ne a Dinant en

1480, mort en 1548.
ScHoREEL (Jean), ne a Schoreel en

1495, mort en 1562 ; eleve de Jean

de Mabuse.
Swart (Jean), ne a Groeningue en

1480, mort en 1541.
Van Conixloo (Jean).

Vandergoes (Hugo), nea Bruges en
1366, mort en 1427 ; eleve de Jean
Van Eyck.

Vanderwevde ( Rogier), ne a
Bruxelles en 1480, mort en 1529.

Le Christ chez Simon le Pharisien.

La Vierge et I'entant Jesus.

Histoire de la vie de Saint Hubert,

Le Seigneur succombant sous le poids de la croix.

Le Christ descendu de la croix.

Deux tableaux ayant servi autrefois de volets a
un grand tableau que le Musee ne possede pas.
La Vierge aux sept douleurs.

Van Hemmisten (Jean), ne a An-
vers au 16"^ siccle.

L'adoration des mages.

La Sainte Famille.

La naissance de Saint Jean-Baptis(e.

Un saint prelat au lit de la mort.

Les noces de Cana. (Volet.)

Jesus au milieu des docteurs. (Volet.)

L'adoration des bergers.

Le portement de la croix.

Le Christ en croix.

Tete de femme en pleurs, coiffee d'une guimbe.

La Vierge encore enfant est regue par un ange

sur les marches du temple.
Jesus parmi les docteurs.
L'annonciation a la Sainte Vierge.
La Nativite.
L'adoration des mages.
La circoncision.
Le Christ au tombeau.
Les disciples et les saintes fcmmcs qui s'eloignent

du sepulcre.
La descente de croix.

214

APPENDIX.

No.

356

357
358

359

Artist's Name.

Description.

Van Oort (I^ambert), ne a Amers- ' Deposition de la croix.
fort en 1520, mort en 1547.

Adoration des bergers.
Van Orley (Bernard), ne a Jesus-Christ mort au milieu de saints person-
Bruxelles en 1470, mort en 1.548. nages.

Sainte famille.

TABLEAUX ANCIENS

DONT LES NOMS DES AUTEURS SONT INCONNUS.

360 Le Pere eternel, revetu de la dalma-

tique et la tete couverte de la tiare,
tient son tils mort sur ses genoux.

361 Le massacre des innocents.
.■562 Saint Benoit.

363 Le Seigneur appelant a lui les petits

enfants.

364 La circonclsion.

365 La Vierge soutenant I'enfant Jesus

endormi, attend son reveil pour lui
offrir une pomme.

366 Le sacre de Saint Gregoire.

367 Tableaux a deux volets.

368 L'adoration des bergers.

369 L'annonciation de I'ange Gabriel a la

Vierge Marie.

370 La Vierge, I'enfant Jesus et Saint

Bernard. ( Figures a mi-corps. )

371 Deux volets d'un grand tableau tres

ancien, peints sur un fond dore, repre-
sentant, I'un, le Christ a la colonne, et
I'autre, la resurrection.

372 Deux volets d'un grand tableau que le

Musee ne possede pas, representant
deux religieux entre deux colonnes.

373 Pendant du tableau precedent.

374 Celebration de la mcsse a I'elevation.

375 La Vierge et I'enfant J<'sus.

376 L'adoration des mages.

377 La Vierge et I'enfant Jesus.

378 La Creation d'Eve.

379 Le sacrifice d'Abraham.

380 L'adoration des mages.

381 Noe et sa famille devant I'arche.

382 La rencontre d'Ksaii et de Jacob.

383
384
385
386
387
388

389

390
391

392
393
394
395
396
397
398
399
400
401
402

403

404

405

406
407
408

Esaii devant son pere.

La Vierge et I'enfant Jesus.

Deux tableaux dans un encadrement.

L'adoration des mages.

Le sacre de Saint Gregoire.

La Vierge dans une gloire entouree de
symboles de litanies.

Le Christ dans sa gloire. (Ecole de
Craver. )

L'adoration des mages.

L'adoration des bergers ; effet de lu-
miere.

La Sainte Vierge et I'enfant Jesus.

Cavalier.

Tete du Christ.

Tete de la Vierge.

La sainte cene.

L'assomption de la Sainte Vierge.

Tete du Christ.

Portrait d'une femme en priere.

Portrait d'homnie.

Portrait de femme.

Portrait d'homme, sous le patronage de
Saint Jacob.

Portrait de femme, sous le patronage de
Sainte Catherine.

Deux portraits.

Portrait de (uiillaume de Croy, mort d
Worm*--, en 1521, foiulateur du con-
vent des Celestins a Ileverle, pres de
Louvain.

Portrait de Jean Barrat.

Portrait de son ei)ouse, Jehenne Cambri.

Portrait d'une jeune dame, tenant un
a-illet.

APPENDIX. 215

409

Portrait d'un homtne habille dans le

415 Portrait d'une dame en costume du 15*

gout du 16^ siecle.

siecle.

410

Portrait d'Edouard, roi d'Angleterre.

416 Portrait d'Elisabeth, reine d'Angleterre.

41]

Portrait.

417 Portrait en pied de la princesse Marie

412

Portrait d'une dame en costume du I 6^

d'Angleterre, dans sa jeunesse.

siecle.

418 Portrait en pied de la reine Marie d'An-

413

Portrait en pied d'une dame du 16^

gleterre, femme de Philippe IL, roi

siecle.

d'Espagne.

414

Portrait d'homme en buste.

419 Portrait d'homme, peint en 1551.

INDICATION DES TABLEAUX COURONNES

AUX DIVERSES EXPOSITIONS QUI ONT EU LIEU A BRUXELLES, SOUS LES AUSPICES DE

LA SOCIETE DES BEAUX-ARTS, FONDEE EN 1811.

No.

Artist's Name.

Description.

420

BoENs (L.), de Tournai.

Reconnaissance des filles de la Messenie envers
le sage Bias. (Dessin.) Concours de 1813.

421

DeCoene( Henri), de Nederbraekel.

L'incredulite de Saint Thomas. Concours de

1827.

422

De Jonghe (J. B. ), ne a Courtrai en

Site boise ; un ane traverse I'eau. Concours de

1785, mort en 1844.

1824.

423

Delvaux (Ed.), ne a Bruxelles en

Pay sage avec figures et bestiaux. Concours de

1806.

1827.

424

De Vlieger, d'Eecloo.

Artisan en priere. Concours de 1827.

425

Du CoRRON (J.), ne a Ath en 1770.

Coup de vent au couchcr du soleil. Concours
de 1813.

426

FRAN901S (Ange N, J.), ne a

La robe ensanglantee de Joseph presentee a

Bruxelles en 1800.

Jacob. (Dessin.)

427

Gassies, de Bordeaux.

Agar renvoyee par Abraham. Concours de
1811.

428

Geirnaert (Joseph), ne a Eecloo

Officier rentrant dans ses foyers. Concours de

(Flandre orientale) en 1791

1818.

429

Gelissen (31. J.), de Bruxelles.

Paysage representant une vue de I'Arcadie.
Concours de 1818.

430

Maes(J, B. L.), ne aGandenl794.

Alexandre le Grand et son medecin Philippe.
(Dessin.) Concours de 1818.

431

Navez, ne a Charleroi en 1787.

Le serment de Brutus. (Dessin.) Concours de
1811.

432

Payen (A. J. J.), de Tournai.

Clair de lune. Concours de 1815.

433

PicoT (FRAN901S-EDOUARD), ne a

La rencontre d'Enee et de Venus. Concours de

Paris en 1786.

1813.

434

Thvs (Jkan-Fran^ois), ne a Brux-

Le pere Segers, jesuite et peintre distingue, re-

elles en 1783.

levant les presents que le Prince d'Orange lui
envoie par son premier peintre Willeberts, en
1643. Concours de 1821.

216

APPENDIX.

No.

Artist's Name.

Description.

43 >

Vandesande-Bakhuyzen (Henri),
ne a la Haye en 1795.

Vue de dunes. Concours de 1821.

436

Van Regemokter (J.), ne a Anvers
en 1785.

Vue matinee d'automne. Concours de 1811.

437

Verei.len, ne a .\nvers.

Jupiter et Mercure chez Pliilemon et Baucis.
Concours de 1815.

563

DUGUET (GUASPRE OU GaSPARH,) dlt

PoussiN, ne a Home en 161.?, mort
en 1675 ; eleve de Nicolas Poussin
son beau-frere.

Paysage.

5G4

Hkmling Jean), ne a Damme, pres
de Bruges ; travailiait en 1479.

Descente de crolx.

565

Inconnus

Une Sainte Famille.

566

L'adoration des mages.

567

Un eveque jirechant devant une asscmblee de
prelats.

568

Jacobs (Pirrre-Fran9ois).

Cesar a qui Ton presentc la tete de Pompee.

569

Jordaens.

Les vaiiites du monde. (Tableau allegorique.)

570

Mazzuoli (Francesco), dit Parmi-
GiANo ou le Parmesan, ne a Parnie
en 1503, mort en 1540 ; fut disciple

Sainte Famille.

de Pierre Mazzuoli et se perfcc-

tionna chez le Correge. ( Ecole

Lombarde. )

571

NicoLiE. (Ecole Flamande. )

Interieiir de leglise Saint-Jacques a Anvers.

572

POURBUS.

Portrait (111 magistral Jac(|ues Vander Glieeiiste,
eciievin et conseiller de la ville de Bruges en
1552.

573

Sturm (Jacques), nc^ a Luxembourg
en 1805, mort a Rome en 1844.

L'eau benite.

574

Vander Meer (Gerard), ne a
Gand vers 1540.

I>'Assomption de la Vierge.

575

Van Dvck.

Portrait de Deilafaillc, bourgmestre d'Aiivers.

576

Portrait de raiitcur, jjcint par lui-meme.

THE END.

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