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TO 
 
 HER MAJESTY QUEEN VICTORIA, 
 
 THIS VOLUME 
 
 BY SPECIAL PERMISSION GRATEFULLY DEDICATED 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
 M111463 
 
A BIENDING OF At H BEADTIE8 ; STREAMS AND DELI S, 
 FROIT. FOtlAQE, ORAO, WOOD, CORNFIELD, MOONTAIN, VINE 
 AND CHIEFT.ESS CASTLES BREATHING 81EKN FAREWELLS 
 FROM GRAY BCT LEAFY WALLS, WHERE RUIN GREENLY PWBII.S. 
 
 CHILDE HAROLD 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 Introduction. — Outline of the Rhine Tour - - - . } 
 
 Interchapter — London to Antwerp - - - . > . 5 
 
 The Good Genius of Antwerp - - - - - .7 
 
 The Legend of the Blacksmith - - - - ■• -15 
 
 Interchapter — Antwerp - - - - - -21 
 
 The Railroad Trip — Brussels - - - - - - 27 
 
 Waterloo - - - - - - - -36 
 
 Interchapter — Brussels - - - - - - . 43 
 
 Brussels to the Rhine, by Liege and Aix-la-Chapelle - - - - 51 
 
 Liege - - - - - - - .54 
 
 Interchapter — Liege - - - - - - -65 
 
 The City of Charlemagne — ^ The Legends of Aix-la-Chapelle - - - 69 
 
 Interchapter — Aix-la-Chapelle - - - - - - 77 
 
 The Trip to Cologne — The Banks of the Rhine - - - - 83 
 
 The Wines of the Rhine - - - . - - 89 
 
 The Legends of Cologne — The Carnival - - - - - 97 
 
 Interchapter — Cologne - - - - - -113 
 
 The Robbers of the Rhine - - - - - -117 
 
 Map of the Rhine - - - - - - -123 
 
 Bonn and its Neighbourhood - - - - - - 132 
 
 Interchapter — Bonn - - - - - - -137 
 
 Bonn to Coblentz -----.. 141 
 
 Interchapter — Coblentz - - - - - -151 
 
 Coblentz to Mayence -----_. 153 
 
 The Brothers -- - - - - . -154 
 
 Heidelburg - - - - - . -170 
 
 Interchapters — Mayence - - - - - -171 
 
 Mannheim - - - - . -173 
 
 Wiesbaden - - - - . -174 
 
 Appendix : — 
 
 1. Descriptive Catalogue of the Works of Art in the Museum at Antwerp - 177 
 
 2. Descriptive Catalogue of the Pictures in the Museum at Brussels - 197 
 
INTRODUCTION. OUTLINE OF THE RHINE TOUR. THE INTERCHAPTEV; 
 
 N the first announcement of a New Book upon an Old Theme, 
 custom and convenience alilie require that a word should 
 be said in shape of introduction and explanation. Its object, 
 its usefulness, its points of novelty, and intended appearance, 
 become the proper text for the Preface. 
 
 First, then, of the intention of this Book, which is to 
 make more pleasantly familiar in England the most beau- 
 tiful and most romantic of the rivers of Europe ; to show 
 how easily its scenery may be enjoyed, and how small an outlay of time and 
 money is requisite to make acquaintance with the charms of The Rhine — 
 the stream of the Conqueror, the Poet, and the Painter — the river of rivers — its 
 majestic banks made historical by CiBsar, by Charlemagne, by Napoleon ; its 
 crumbling ruins in picturesque decay, each in itself a lingering romance of the 
 Middle Ages; its vine-clad slopes, the parent of the Rheinioein, and theme of a 
 thousand songs ; its rapid waters, the fabled dwelling-place of sprites and mer- 
 maidens ; — the River of " The Fatherland." 
 
 The charm of The Rhine Tour is increased by the facility with which it is 
 made. Steam is our willing slave, ready to bear us, afloat by vessel and ashore 
 

 /^, r ccc <l'cj ' ' ccJ /' ''r'' THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 c c <■ c ^ 
 
 by railway, on our pilgrimage in scai'ch of health, of change, of amusement ; 
 of instruction, or the picturesque. Gallantly, in spite of wind and tide, it breasts 
 its way, and places Cologne but a day's journey from London ; — as near as 
 the English Lakes, and nearer than the Highlands of Scotland ! 
 
 Tliat the pleasure of the trij) has the further merit of utility needs but little 
 proof. TraA-el teaches what books never teach so well. It roots out prejudices, 
 expands the feelings, cultivates the taste, sharpens the intellect, and, beyond all 
 other means, polishes the manners. The advantage of the lessons thus taught is 
 beyond all calculation. The old moralist was right in estimating men according 
 to their knowledge of strange lands and languages. " He who knows one country 
 and one tongue, is as one man ; he who knows two, is as two ; he who knows 
 three, has treble power ; and so on in like proportion." 
 
 The " Grand Tour" is no longer the privilege of the f civ ; for steam has thrown 
 down the barrier of cost, and offers to all the teachings of travel — lessons in the 
 great School of the w^orld — easily and agreeably learned, and long remembered. 
 Steam is, indeed, our Great Schoolmaster. Not satisfied with pouring forth, for 
 our use and delectation, books by thousands and newspapers by millions, the 
 Vapoury Giant opens all Europe for the inspection, the amusement, and instruc- 
 tion of the Summer Tourist ; in a few hours bearing him over those boundaries 
 which man and nature have set up between race and race, between country 
 and country, as though to prevent that free and kindly intercourse which, when 
 indulged, is found to be so delightfully congenial to our really social nature. 
 
 Each stage of the Rhine Tour has its own peculiar attractions. First, the 
 trip across the Channel, and up " the lazy Scheldt ; " then Antwerp, one of the 
 finest old cities of tlie Continent, with its citadel and story of battles and sieges ; 
 its tall Spanish-built houses, their aspect telling their history ; its magnificent 
 Gothic Cathedral, and above all, its memory of Rubens, and its treasury of his 
 works. Then the railroad trip, with its trumpet signals, through the fruitful 
 fields of Belgium, to Brussels. The life, vivacity, and cleanliness, of the modern 
 portions of that " little Paris," its park, boulevards, and /)<:'^?Ve palaces, contrasting 
 with the gloomy grandeur of the old town. Then the plain of Waterloo, with 
 its monuments and recollections ever interesting to the Englishman. Then Liege, 
 the busy centre of manufacturing industry, — tlie Birmingliam of Belgium. Then 
 the delightful valley of the Meuse, and Aix-la-Cliapelle, its baths, and gaiety ; 
 and again, the railroad to Cologne, its old cathedral, its three skeleton kings, 
 uiinund>ered virgins, and other legendary histories. There the Rhine gives first 
 foretaste of future beauties, as above Cologne the Seven Mountains, with the 
 Draehenfels as their King, first break upon the sight. Ehrenbreitstein, the 
 Broad Stone of Honor, next frowns upon tlie gazer, and, following too thickly 
 for cursory description, the features of the Rhine now crowd on his delighted 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 notice. Mountains built up, as it were, of successive seams of hard bare rock, 
 and rich strips and patches of earth covered by the vine — graceful bends of 
 I'iver scenery — villages cowering for shelter under huge rocks on the banks, 
 the stream laving their very door-stone, and the hills rising, like earthy giants, 
 above the rustic roof, and slender church spires, — each mountain pinnacled by 
 some ruined fortaliee invested with wild legendary associations, and enriched 
 by all the poetical garniture of chivalric tale, and " ballad historie." From 
 Ehrenbreitstein to Bingen is one continuous succession of delightful scenery ; 
 now bold and startling, the rocks jutting bare and barren in rude sublimity, 
 anon the mountain tops mingle into soft outlines, their bases shutting in the 
 windings of the river, until the gazer finds himself passing through a seeming 
 succession of lakes. It is, indeed, a land of beauty and poetry. From the days 
 of the Romans to the time of Charlemagne, through the romance of the Crusades, 
 and the stirring periods of the Middle Ages, until Napoleon rose to startle 
 Europe, and form an era in modern history, — the Rhine has been an historic 
 river. To its geographical importance is added the potent charm of natural 
 beauty ; and the accumulated associations of ages have invested it with a degree 
 of interest which others may claim or envy, but may never expect to enjoy. 
 
 By this route the Rliine bears its pilgrim on his way — each few miles offering, 
 on either bank, towns and villages as halting-places, should he wish to linger — 
 until he reaches Mayence, the birth-place of the printing press. From this point 
 he may make excursions to "Wiesbaden, to Franckfort, to Heidelburg, to Carlsruhe, 
 to Baden-Baden, to Strasbourg, or, retracing his steps when the more beautiful 
 portions of the river have been exhausted, may hasten down the rapid current 
 to Holland ; — that most curious of countries — a land filched from the sea. 
 
 " A country that draws fifty feet of water. 
 In which men live as in the hold of nature, 
 And when the sea does in upon them break, 
 And drowns a province, does but spring a leak." Hudibras. 
 
 The Rhine Book, by an arrangement entirely novel, seeks to separate the 
 Romance of Travel from its Common-place. The numerous illustrations from 
 original sketches, and the attractions of the finest printing, will, it is hoped, 
 render the volume worthy of the library, the drawing-room, or the boudoir, w"hilst 
 it unites with its claims to elegance those points of practical usefulness necessary 
 in a Guide Book. Dates, distances, times, and pi'ices, will be found fully and 
 exactly stated, to enable the Tourist to know and regulate his expenses at plea- 
 sure, and to avoid those extortions to which, when destitute of such information, 
 he would most certainly be subjected. 
 
 The Interchapters contain various points of detail gathered in the countries 
 to which they refer. The Tourist who only seeks amusement or relaxation need 
 
THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 not trouble himself with more of them than may be requisite or serviceable for 
 the regulation of his movements ; but will scarcely complain that facts and 
 figures valuable and interesting to the student of history and to the political 
 economist find place in company with things more personally imjiortant, such as 
 lists of exhibitions, catalogues of pictui'es, and collections of hotel cards. 
 
 In preparing the details of the Interchapter for Belgium free use has been 
 made of the Volume of Monsieur J. Duplessy upon the Railroads of that country, 
 — a work compiled from official documents, and, notwithstanding the modesty of 
 its title, sanctioned by His Majesty King Leopold, and largely patronised by his 
 people. And here it may not be out of place to state that 
 
 The expense of travelling by railway in Belgium is much inferior to the charge made in England. 
 Let us take for example the railroad from Birmingham to Liverpool, 97i miles (rather less than 
 157 kilom.). The price of the best places is 11. 5s. (31 francs 25 centimes) or 20 centimes per 
 kilom. In Belgium, from Brussels to Antwerp, a distance of 44 kilom., the diligences cost 3 
 francs 50 centimes, that is 8 centimes per kilom. ; the price in the waggons does not amount to 
 more than 3 or 4 centimes per kilom., and in England the cheapest places come to Hi centimes 
 per kilom. 
 
 In France, upon the railway from Paris to Saint Germain (18,500 metres), the lowest places 
 are 1 franc, and on tlie road from Paris to Versailles, right bank ( 1 8,000 metres), they are 1 franc 
 25 centimes. 
 
 The advantage with respect to economy is still in favour of Belgium. 
 
 The German " Legends " in the latter part of the book have been chiefly 
 rendered from the versions of Reismann ; care having been taken to select those 
 most likely to interest the English Traveller, and to afford a correct notion of 
 the traditionary stores of The Rhine ; — its brave knights and fair ladies ; its 
 ancient warriors, mischievous demons, cunning gnomes, and graceful mer- 
 maidens 
 
 " bright forms that lure but to betray." 
 
INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER. 
 
 FACTS, FIGURES, DISTANCES, PASSPORTS, MONETS, EXPENSES, INNS, CUSTOM HOUSES, CONVEYANCES, 
 LANGUAGE, EXHIBITIONS, AMUSEMENTS, PICTURES, ETC. 
 
 LONDON TO ANTWERP. 
 
 Passports. — The traveller who decides upon 
 visiting the Rhine will do well to take steam to 
 Antwerp. To do this it is first requisite to 
 procure a passport ; a Belgian one vise by the 
 Prussian Minister is the best. To procure this 
 a visit must be paid to the office of the Belgian 
 ambassador, No. 50. Portland Place, between the 
 hours of eleven and two. The traveller's name 
 and appearance will be taken the first day. 
 Upon calling next morning the passport will 
 be delivered to him free of charge. It should 
 be taken between eleven and two o'clock to the 
 Prussian Ambassador, No. 4. Carlton House 
 Terrace, St. James's Park, who will affix the 
 necessary signature, also without charge. Having 
 done this the traveller possesses the passport he 
 requires, and he may start upon his tour with- 
 out fear of detention, either in Belgium, on the 
 Rhine, or in Holland. Should he require a 
 passport in haste, the best plan is to go to the 
 Prussian Consul, B. Hebeler, Esq., No. 106. 
 Fenchurch Street, City, who will supply it on 
 payment of seven shillings. 
 
 Conveyance. — Steam-boats for the Rhine, by 
 way of Antwerp and Ostend, leave London 
 three or four times a-week. Vessels of the 
 General Steam Navigation Company leave 
 Blackwall every Thursday and Saturday. For 
 the tourist who studies economy, it is well to 
 take a return ticket from the office of this 
 company in Lombard Street, which tickets 
 convey the purchaser up the Rhine, allowing 
 him to land and remain at intermediate places 
 as long as he may think fit, and bring him back 
 to England at a considerable reduction upon 
 the fixed fares from place to place. The only 
 objection to this plan is that the traveller must 
 always journey by the same company's boats. 
 
 The direct fares from London are at the follow- 
 ing rates : 
 
 Fares to Antwerp from London. — Chief 
 Cabin, 2/. 2s.; Fore Cabin, 1/. 12». 6d. ; Chil- 
 dren under ten years of age, half-price ; Coach, 
 61. ; Chariot, 5l. ; Light Caleche, 4l. ; Two-wheel 
 Carriages, 3?. ; Horses, 5/.; Dogs, 10s. 
 
 But it should be remarked here, that the 
 steam-boat lands the passenger at Antwerp, 
 from which city he must travel across Belgium 
 to Cologne by railroad. From Cologne he 
 ascends the river by the steam-boats, and, if he 
 chooses to take a return ticket, comes down the 
 Rhine, through Holland, and so on back to 
 London by the vessels of the Steam Navigation 
 Company. The cheapest route of all is to take 
 a return ticket, via Rotterdam, returning the 
 same way. By this mode the cost of the Bel- 
 gian railroads is saved, but Belgium is not 
 seen. 
 
 Luggage. — Though the fares of the Belgian 
 railways are low, the traveller will be charged 
 heavily for luggage. If he travels alone, and 
 proposes to make only the tour of the Rhine, 
 he should avoid the Englishman's error of 
 moving about with a horse-load of baggage. 
 Let him leave his imaginary wants and his 
 half-dozen portmanteaux at home, and be con- 
 tent with what he can stow away in a carpet- 
 bag. If, however, the Rhine is only followed 
 as a route to some distant point, and he must 
 have baggage, let him book it at the General 
 Steam Navigation Company's Office in London 
 direct by steam-boat to Cologne, where he can 
 meet it. In this way he will avoid the annoy- 
 ance, anxiety, and expense of "lugging" his 
 burthen over land to the Rhine. 
 
 Money. — For a trip upon the Rhine so little 
 
THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 money is required, that the best plan is to carrj- 
 English sovereigns, upon changing which a con- 
 siderable premium is obtained — that is, if the 
 innkeeper is not allowed to forget this advantage 
 due to his customer. Should the traveller, 
 however, contemplate a journey beyond the 
 Rhine, into Switzerland and Italy, he should 
 provide himself with circular notes, procurable 
 from the bankers, Messrs. Coutts & Co., Strand; 
 the Union Bank of London, 2. Princes Street, 
 Bank, Pall iNIall East, and Argyle Place ; Sir 
 Claude Scott & Co., Cavendish Square ; Messrs. 
 Twining and Co., near Temple Bar. 
 
 Value at which the following coins are current. 
 
 Sovereign 
 
 Enplish Shillinf:! 
 
 Dutch 10 guilder pitvt . 
 
 Ducat 
 
 Guilder 
 
 Fred. d'Ur 
 
 Prussian Tlialer 
 
 French Crown Thaler . 
 Brabant ditto 
 Convention ditto 
 Piece of ^0 kreulzers . . . 
 
 20 frank piece 
 
 25 frank ditto 
 
 21 frank ditto 
 
 Pruss. 
 
 th. sg. 
 " '^0 
 10 
 20 
 4 
 17 
 20 
 
 Frankfl 
 
 Holland 
 
 gld. cts 
 U , 90 
 .. 58 
 10 . .. 
 5 [ 50 
 
 9 90 
 
 1 , 70 
 
 Belgium 
 
 and 
 Frant 
 
 I 
 
 DISTANCES ON THE RHINE TOUR. 
 
 London to Antwerp - -(Steam-boat) 
 
 Antwerp to Brussels - - (Railway) 
 
 Brussels to Liege - - - Do. 
 
 Liege to Aix-la-Chapelle - Do. 
 Aix-la-Chapelle to Cologne Do. 
 
 Cologne to Bonn - - - (Steam-boat) 
 
 Bonn to Coblenz - - - Do. 
 
 Coblenz to Boppart - - Do. 
 
 Boppart to Caub - - - Do. 
 
 Caub to Bingen - - - Do. 
 
 Bingen to Bielierich - - Do. 
 
 Bieberich to Mayence - - Do. 
 
 Mayence to Dusseldorf - Do. 
 
 Dusseldorf to Rotterdam - Do. 
 
 Rotterdam to London - - Do. 
 
 Miles. 
 229 
 
 261 
 
 67 
 
 28 
 
 431 
 
 20^ 
 
 45| 
 
 14J 
 
 161 
 
 IH 
 14' 
 
 156| 
 
 200 
 
 lOGOi 
 
 Distances. — A table showing, in English 
 miles (omitting fractions), tlic distances cf the 
 
 principal towns in Belgium from the capital, 
 
 and from each other. 
 
 Note. The square, containing tlie angle common to 
 any two towns, exhibits the distance between them. 
 Thus, the distance from Ghent to Brussels is 30 miles, 
 and from Antwerp t%Liege 62. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 CQ 
 
 
 Aniwerj*. 
 
 26 
 
 
 Bruges. 
 
 50 
 
 53 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ghent. 24 
 
 30 
 
 .)0 
 
 
 ■ — 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hal, 
 
 32 54 
 
 31 
 
 10 
 
 
 *^uv. 
 
 45 
 
 75 1 95 
 
 58 
 
 44 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 L 
 
 '^• 
 
 17 
 
 5S 
 
 83 1 107 
 
 62 
 
 53 
 
 Lourain. 
 
 41 
 
 31 
 
 26 
 
 41 65 
 
 26 
 
 14 
 
 Malines, 
 
 14 
 
 53 
 
 47 
 
 22 
 
 32 ! 54 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 Mons 4S 
 
 45 
 
 70 
 
 55 
 
 22 
 
 45, 60 
 
 58 
 
 32 
 
 Namur.j 41141 
 
 29 
 
 32 
 
 17 
 
 34 
 
 63 85 
 
 ■« 
 
 .35 
 
 Ostend. 98 70 6S 
 
 80 
 
 120 
 
 109 
 
 66 
 
 38 1 15 
 
 64 
 
 68 
 
 The following will be useful to the traveller. 
 
 MEASURE OF LENGTH IN DIFFERENT COUNTRIES. 
 
 Eng. Miles. 
 
 Eng. Miles. 
 
 1 French league is - 2i, or 2 leagues make - -"i 
 
 1 Italian mile is - U, or 7 Italian miles - 8 
 
 1 Spanish ditto (nearly) 3, or 7 Spanish ditto - 20 
 
 1 German ditto - - 4i, or 7 German ditto - 33 
 
 1 Dutch ditto - - 3^, or 1 1 Dutch ditto --10 
 
 I Kussian verst - ?, or 3 Russian vcrsts - 2 
 
 of which 
 
 make 
 
 one 
 
 equatorial 
 
 degree. 
 
 CONTINENTAL DISTANCES FOR A SINGLE POST. 
 
 France - - 1 myriametre - - 11' 
 
 Germanv - 2 miles - - . 15 
 
 Italy - - 8 miles - . - 60 
 
 Holland - 2 leagues - - 19 
 
 Switzerland - 2 leagues - - 23 . 
 
 The French metre is 1-llth of a yard, or 11 metres 
 make 12 yards. 
 
 1 French pound is equalto 1/6. \oz. lOdr- or 12 French 
 make 13 English. 
 
 IIOTKLS IN ANTWERP. 
 
 Hotel St. ilntoine, Place Vcrte, kept by Sciimitt 
 SrALNiiovEN. The English, French, and Gorman 
 Languages spoken. 
 
 Hotel Du Pare, kept by Loi'is De la Pre', Place 
 
 Verte, opposite the Cathedral. — Baths. 
 
 Hotel Grand Xiaboureur, kept by V. J. Loos, 
 Place de Meir, opposite the King's Palace. Table- 
 d'hote at 2 and 4. 
 
 Hotel I>',A.ng:leterre, kept by c. Boisacq- 
 VANDERHt'Lsr. This Hotel is in the centre of Ant- 
 werp, near the Museum, and on the road from the 
 Port to the Hallway. 
 
ANTWERP. 
 
 Antwerp, from the Scheldt. 
 
 THE GOOD GENIUS OF ANTWERP. 
 
 In the Year of Grace One thousand five hundred and eighty-eight, the gossips 
 of the Place de Meir were amused by a group of persons, who slowly made their 
 way along its uneven surface. They were strangers, and from the baggage 
 carried by two boatmen, and the point from whence they came, it was clear that 
 the canal had been their route from Malines. Their di-ess was a compound of 
 German and Flemish, with but slight trace of the gayer and more elegant cos- 
 tume of Spain, which at that time was patronised in Antwerp with much real 
 satisfaction by the younger and richer portion of the citizens, but was regarded 
 by the bulk of the people as a caged tiger might look on the spangled habili- 
 ments of its keeper. It was evident that the inquisitive looks directed towards 
 the new comers gleaned from the outward aspect of the party but slight inform- 
 ation calculated to arouse more than a passing interest. It was a widow and her 
 family : she a portly dame, but much dejected in her manner, and they, five 
 sturdy -looking youths and two daughters — the latter more remarkable for neat- 
 ness than for beauty. All but the mother looked round about them enquiringly, 
 as though to see how the aspect of their new home chimed with the idea they 
 had foreshadowed of it, and one of them, — a boy about ten years old, — showed 
 more than Flemish feeling, by shouting with glee as he pointed out to his sisters 
 the beautiful spire of the Cathedral, the decorated gables of some new Spanish- 
 
THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 built houses, and the rich trappings of a passing cavalier. — Suddenly the caril- 
 lons broke forth with their music, and the shouts were doubled. 
 
 " Peter, Peter!" cried his mother, as the boy ran across the broad handsome 
 street to gaze into a court-yard, where a large basket of flowers had been placed : 
 " you must be more staid, or you will never be a lawyer." 
 
 In a moment he was at his mother's side, and taking one of her hands in both 
 of his, he walked obediently with her, as she led the way down a small street on 
 
 the left hand, and entered 
 a house. The boy looked 
 round about him, andiui'n- 
 ing to the youngest girl, 
 said, " I am sure you will 
 like this jilace, sister. Do 
 not be sorry we have left 
 Cologne — we shall soon 
 learn to love Antwerp as 
 dearly as you loved yonr 
 old home on the Rliine.'' 
 
 In a week tlie WidoAv 
 and her children were 
 leading the quiet life of a 
 quiet Flemish family. Peter 
 was busilv eno;a2;ed in 
 learning languages, wliich 
 lie did with great facility, 
 and in talking about his in- 
 tended study of the law, — 
 the profession of his father. 
 But its dry details and 
 subtle niceties were not 
 adapted to his warm ima- 
 gination. His spirit 
 yearned for things more 
 bright and glowing. When 
 the attire of his brethren 
 and his sisters was dis- 
 cussed, he always gave his 
 voice and vote in favour 
 of gay silks and rich vel- 
 TiHCatiMcLai. vcts bcyoud tlic mother's 
 
ANTWERP. 9 
 
 means. When a fete clay called forth tlie holiday attire, it was Peter Avho arranged 
 the disposition of the family wardrobe, and criticised the garments of the multitude 
 of citizens who thronged the Cathedral at High Mass ; and when the mass was 
 done, and the host of worshippers had departed, Peter would still linger before 
 the picture of some saint, or stand by the hour watching the forms of the solitary 
 penitents who knelt in prayer on tlie floor of the Cathedral, or in some one of its 
 many chapels. The flood of rich light that then streamed through the lofty 
 painted windows of the nave was another source of joy to him, — an object 
 almost of his adoration, and he would gaze upon the gold and jewels and rich 
 carvings of the grand altar, until its gorgeousness became almost a part of his 
 mental self. With a thirsty mind, he drank in all that his eye could discover of 
 the majestic and the gorgeous; and when his thoughts were forced by duty from 
 their favoui'ite theme, to the petty quirks, the mean evasions, the unworthy sub- 
 terfuges, and the cold, hai'd, worldly realities of the law, the inner rebellion was 
 cruel. The memory of his father's wishes, the desires of his mother, and the 
 persuasion of his friends, weighed heavily in the scale ; but a sti-ong nature was 
 too much for them, and Peter at length abandoned with exultation his legal studies 
 
 to become a page in the house of a noble Spanish fomily. 
 
 ******* 
 
 Two and fifty years passed away, and the gossips of the Place de Meir were 
 acain listening; to the same carillons that had sounded a welcome to the widow's 
 family more than half a century before. The beautiful spire was there, and the 
 music Avas the same, and there was a group Avending their way towards the 
 widow's house. But where is the boy ? 
 
 Youth long ago had given place to manhood, and even more disgusted with the 
 servile duties of his post than with the foi'malities of the law, the Page became a 
 Painter. With the devotion of a spirit engaged in its proper sphere, he wrought 
 late and early at his easel, and soon there came forth from it bold vigorous forms 
 grouped in luxuriant profusion, and glowing with a richness of colour, such as 
 never before was produced by the painters of Flanders. Soon on all hands he Avas 
 greeted as a Master, and fame, and honours, and riches poured in rapidly upon 
 him. Journeying to Italy to study the pictures of that country, his polished 
 manners, and the news of his ability, procured him a warm reception at the Court 
 of Mantua — whose Duke he consented to serve as Envoy to the Court of Spain. 
 The stately hidalgos and lofty beauties of that sunny land were charmed Avith 
 the handsome i^erson, the finished address, and ready pencil of the young Flem- 
 ing, and Philip the Third and the proudest of his grandees Avere anxious sitters 
 before his easel. But the Ambassador Avas not forgotten in the Artist, nor Avas 
 the object of his mission left unfulfilled. Returning to Mantua he reaped an 
 abundant harvest of thanks and gold, and rich in the Avorld's goods he went to 
 
10 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 Rome, to Bologna, to Venice, to Milan, to Genoa ; — noting in each their treasures 
 of Art, and painting late and early with a noble desire to emulate the greatness 
 of the Italian Masters. AVhilst thus engaged he got news of the mortal sickness 
 of his mother — and the son hurried with all the impatience of filial love to 
 Antwerp, but arrived too late to receive her latest breath. 
 
 Honours at home awaited him, but could not for a long time heal his grief. He 
 was named a Counsellor of State, and the Archduke Albert loaded him with 
 favours, and gave him a pension that he might have leisure if he chose it. They 
 tempted him to live at Brussels ; but Antwerp was his home, he said, and there 
 he still with unabated ardour worked on, painting altar-pieces, and other such 
 pictures, for most of the chief churches of Belgium. Going to Paris to take a 
 commission for twenty-one large paintings, the King, who ordered them, would 
 have them completed in that city; but no ! — Antwerp was his home, and there 
 he finished them. Some time before this he had married a native of the city, 
 and this bound him in affection still closer to the place ;' but at length his wife died, 
 and to amuse his grief he travelled through Holland, and afterwards accepted 
 missions for Madrid, and subsequently for England. In Spain he again made 
 friends, and painted some magnificent pictures; — in England he succeeded in 
 procuring for Flanders a treaty of commerce ; and surprised King Charles the 
 First by the variety of his accomplishments, the soundness of his judgment, the 
 richness of his fancy, and the power and never-ceasing industry of his pencil. 
 From London he went again to Spain, and thence once more returned with soft- 
 ened feelings to his much-loved Antwerp. There in the house near the Place de 
 Meir the painter received visits fi-om scions Of royal houses ; there Fekdina^'d, 
 the brother of Philip the Fourth of Spain, and there Maria de JNIedici, on her 
 way into exile, visited him ; and thus the painter diplomatist and courtier 
 brought honour to the city whilst he was enriching it by the immortal products 
 of his pencil. 
 
 But hark ! the carillons are playing merrily, and the group we saw have 
 entered the house, and three of them ascend its stair. There is a notary, a 
 physician, and a noble-looking youth, and they come to see the Painter die. 
 There he lies surrounded by his family ; — noble -looking sons and comely 
 daughters, and his young second wife. The physician says there is no hope, 
 and the news affects the least the man it concerns most nearly. He is calmly 
 resigned, and with a heart overflowing with love for those around him, amid the 
 prayers and tears of his family, and the sorrow of his townsmen, he closes his 
 earthly career. 
 
 Yet tliough long since dead in body, his name lives after him, and the works 
 of Peter Paul Rukens attest their author's claim to tlie title of The Good 
 Genius of Antwerp. His house still stands near the Place de INleir for the 
 
ANTWERP. 1 1 
 
 traveller's inspection ; in the Cathedral may still be seen his masterpiece, the 
 " Descent from the Cross ; " in the Museum are many of his most masterly pic- 
 tures, and there too is his arm-chair, and a painting by a modern disciple display- 
 ing the touching details of his death. In the chapel behind the high altar of the 
 Church of St. Jacques we find the tomb where his ashes rest, and above it, from 
 his own pencil, another of his masterpieces — " St. George with other saints 
 before the Virgin and Child," in which are portraits of himself, of his two wives, 
 (Elizabeth Brant and Helena Forman,) of his children, and his father; whilst in 
 the centre of the greenest spot in the whole city, almost under the shadow of the 
 beautiful spire that attracted his boyish admiration, and in sound of his dearly- 
 loved carillonsy stands the Statue raised to his memory. Having gazed on these 
 the Stranger has no difficulty in forming his judgment on the city. The religion of 
 the land has reared lofty and most beautiful monuments to decorate it ; its old 
 supremacy of trade has left behind long piles of noble houses, broad squares, and 
 handsome avenues ; the spirit of war shows its presence and power in the place 
 by bastions, foss, and ditches innumerable ; but not one of these forms the dis- 
 tinguishing mark of the town. The name and fame of a Painter are its real 
 glory — Antaverp is the City op Rubens.* 
 
 Whilst rambling round the town in search of the memorials of Rubens, the 
 Tourist meets most of the other objects it has to offer for his notice. In the 
 Place de Meir, close to the artist's house, stands the King's Palace, a plain unin- 
 teresting building ; and when he leaves the Rue Rubens to walk to the Museum, 
 he may pass through the old Bourse, and note its Alhambra-like columns. In 
 the narrow streets he will encounter many specimens of the genuine Fleming, 
 both male and female ; and the coarse skins, long-eared caps, and wooden shoes of 
 the women, if he be new to continental ways, will amuse him by their novelty, 
 and suggest comparisons with the apparel of the labouring people of England. 
 Arrived at the Museum he will find, besides the works of Rubens f, many pic- 
 
 * " Having become acquainted with the Duke of Buckingham in Paris, he was commanded to 
 negotiate with the Duke some affairs between Spain and England. That nobleman purchased 
 his collection of works of art for 100,000 florins, and it was sent to England in 1625. Most of 
 these paintings were again, upon the Duke's death, exported for sale, and the best pictures are now 
 in the Belvidere Palace at Vienna. 
 
 " Rubens had gone to Spain with Prince Charles and Buckingham, according to some accounts, 
 in 1623; but this circumstance is very much doubted, as several things appeared to make his 
 journey thither at that time very improbable. 
 
 " While in England this great artist painted the present roof of Whitehall Chapel, or, more 
 properly, the banqueting-room of Whitehall Palace, for vs^hich he was paid 3000/." — Life of 
 Rubens. 
 
 f The opinion of Sir Joshua Reynolds, our chief English critic u]ion the works of Rubens, 
 must find place here. Sir Joshua left England chiefly to see the pictures of Rubens, influenced 
 
12 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 tures of high character by Vandyke, 
 Jordaens, and Qucntyn Matsys, witli 
 numerous other characteristic produc- 
 tions of the Flemish school. 
 
 perhaps by the suggestions of Oliver Goldsmith, 
 
 who had previously passed on foot and 
 
 in great poverty through Flanders 
 
 this part of his career the poet 
 
 refers in the opening lines of 
 
 the Traveller : — 
 
 " Alone, unfriended, melancholy, slow, 
 Or by the lazij Schetdiy or wand'ring Po/' 
 
 " The works of men of genius 
 alone, where great faults are 
 united with groat beau- 
 ties, afford proper matter 
 for criticism. Genius is 
 always eccentric, bold, 
 and daring ; which, at 
 the same time that it 
 commands attention, is 
 sure to provoke criticism. 
 It is the regular, cold, 
 and timid composer who ^ 
 escapes unseen, and de- 
 serves no praise. 
 
 " The elevated situa- 
 tion on which Rubens 
 stands in the esteem of 
 the world is alone a suf- 
 ficient reason for some 
 examination of his pre- 
 tensions. His fame is ex- 
 tended over a great part 
 of the Continent without 
 a rival ; and it may be 
 justly said that he has 
 enriched his country, not 
 in a figurative sense 
 alone, by the great ex- 
 amples of art which he 
 left, but by what some 
 would think a more solid 
 advantage, — the wealth 
 arising from the con- 
 
RUBENS. 1 3 
 
 course of strangers whom his works continually invite to Antwerp. ****** Having now 
 seen his greatest compositions, where he has more means of displaying those parts of his art in 
 which he particularly excelled, my estimation of his genius is, of course, raised. It is only in 
 large compositions that his powers seem to have room to expand themselves. They really increase 
 in proportion to the size of the canvass on which they are to he displayed. His superiority is not 
 seen in easel pictures, nor even in detached parts of his greater works ; which are seldom eminently 
 beautiful. It does not lie in an attitude, or in any peculiar expression, but in the general effect, 
 
 — in the genius which pervades and illuminates the whole. 
 
 "The works of Rubens have that peculiar property always attendant on genius, — to attract 
 attention, and enforce admiration in spite of all their faults. It is owing to this fascinating 
 power that the performances of those painters with which he is surrounded, though they have, 
 perhaps, fewer defects, yet appear spiritless, tame, and insipid; such as the altar-pieces of Crayer, 
 Schut, Segcrs, Huysum, Tyssens, Van Balen, and the rest. They are done by men whose hands, 
 and, indeed, all their faculties, appear to have been cramped and confined ; and it is evident that 
 every thing they did was the eflect of great labour and pains. The productions of Rubens, on 
 the contrary, seem to flow with a freedom and prodigality, as if they cost him nothing ; and to 
 the general animation of the composition there is always a correspondent spirit in the execution of 
 the work. The striking brilliancy of his colours, and their lively opposition to each other ; the 
 flowing liberty and freedom of his outline ; the animated pencil with which every object is touched, 
 
 — all contribute to awaken and keep alive the attention of the spectator ; awaken in him, in some 
 measure, correspondent sensations, and make him feel a degree of that enthusiasm with which the 
 painter was carried away. To this we may add the complete uniformity in all the parts of the work, 
 so that the whole seems to be conducted and grow out of one mind : every thing is of a piece, and 
 fits its place. Even his taste of drawing and of form appears to correspond better with his 
 colouring and composition than if he had adopted any other manner, though that manner, simply 
 considered, might have been better. It is here, as in personal attractions, there is frequently 
 found a certain agreement and correspondence in the whole together, which is often more captivating 
 than mere regular beauty. 
 
 " Rubens appears to have had that confidence in himself which it is necessary for every artist to 
 assume when he has finished his studies, and may venture in some measure to throw aside the fetters of 
 authority; to consider the rules as subject to his control, and not himself subject to the rules; to 
 risk and to dare extraordinary attempts without a guide, abandoning himself to his own sensations> 
 and depending upon them. To this confidence must be imputed that originality of manner by 
 which he may be truly said to have extended the limits of the art. After Rubens had made up 
 his manner, he never looked out of himself for assistance : there is, consequently, very little in his 
 works that appears to be taken from other niasters. If he has borrowed any thing, he has had the 
 address to change and adapt it so well to the rest of his work that the thief is not discoverable. 
 
 " Besides the excellency of Rubens in these general powers, he possessed the true art of 
 imitating. He saw the objects of nature with a painter's eye ; he saw at once the predominant 
 feature by which every object is known and distinguished : and as soon as seen, it was executed 
 with a facility that is astonishing : and, let me add, this facility is to a painter, when he closely 
 examines a picture, a source of great pleasure. How far this excellence may be perceived or felt 
 by those who are not painters, I know not : to them certainly it is not enough that objects be 
 truly represented; they must likewise be represented with grace, which means, here, that the 
 work is done with facility and without effort. Rubens was perhaps the greatest master in the 
 mechanical part of the art, the best workman with his tools, that ever exercised a pencil. 
 
 " This power, which Rubens possessed in the highest degree, enabled him to represent whatever 
 
14 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 he undertook better than any other painter. His animals, particularly lions and horses, are so 
 admiralile, that it may be said they were never properly represented but l)y him. His portraits 
 rank with the best works of the painters who have made that branch of the art the sole business 
 of their lives; and of these he has left a great variety of specimens. The same may be said of 
 his landscapes ; and though Claude Lorraine finished more minutely, as becomes a professor in 
 any particular branch, yet there is such an airiness and facility in the landscapes of Rubens, 
 that a painter would as soon wish to be the author of them as those of Claude, or any other artist 
 whatever. 
 
 " The pictures of Rubens have this effect on the spectator, that he feels himself in no wise 
 disposed to pick out and dwell on his defects. The criticisms which are made on him are, indeed, 
 often unreasonable. His style ought no more to be blamed for not having the sublimity of 
 INIichael Angelo, than Ovid should be censured because he is not like ^'irgil. 
 
 " However, it must be acknowledged that he wanted many excellences which would have 
 perfectly united with his stylo. Among those we may reckon beauty in his female characters : 
 sometimes, indeed, they make approaches to it ; they are healthy and comelj- women, but seldom, 
 if ever, possess any degree of elegance : the same may be said of his young men and children. 
 His old men have that sort of dignity which a bushy beard will confer ; but he never possessed a 
 poetical conception of character. In his representations of the highest characters in the Christian 
 or the fabulous world, instead of something above humanity, which might fill the idea which is 
 conceived of such beings, the spectator finds little more than mere mortals, such as he meets with 
 every day. 
 
 " The incorrectness of Rubens, in regard to his outline, oftener proceeds from haste and 
 carelessness than from inability : there are in his great works, to which he seems to have paid more 
 particular attention, naked figures as eminent for their drawing as for their colouring. He 
 appears fo have entertained a great abhorrence of the meagre, dry manner of his predecessors, the 
 old German and Flemish painters; to avoid which he kept his outline large and flowing: this, 
 carried to an extreme, produced that heaviness which is so frequently found in his figures. 
 Another defect of this great painter is his inattention to the foldings of his drapery, especially that 
 of his women: it is scarcely ever cast with any choice of skill. Carlo Maratti and Rubens are, 
 in this respect, in opposite extremes: one discovers too much art in the disposition of drapery, 
 and the other too little. Rubens's drapery, besides, is not properly historical ; the quality of 
 the stuflf of which it is composed is too accurately distinguished, resembling the manner of Paul 
 Veronese. This drapery is less offensive in Rubens than it would be in many other painters 
 as it partly contributes to that richness which is the peculiar character of his style, which we do 
 not pretend to set forth as of the most simple and sublime kind. 
 
 " The difference of the m.nnner of Rubens from that of any other jiainter before him is in 
 nothing more distinguishable than in his colouring, which is totally different from that of Titian, 
 Correggio, or any of the great colourists. The effect of his pictures may be not improperly 
 compared to clusters of flowers : all his colours ajjpear as clear and as beautiful ; at the same time 
 he has avoided that tawdry effect which one would expect such gay colours to produce ; in this 
 respect resembling Rarocci more than any other painter. What was said of an aiicient painter 
 may be applied to those two artists, — that their figures look as if they fed upon roses. 
 
 " It would be a curious and profitable study for a ])ainter to examine the difference, and the 
 cause of tli.it diflerence, of effect in the works of Correggio and Kul)ens, both excellent in 
 different ways. The difference, probably, would be given according to the different habits of the 
 connoisseur : those who had received their first im)>ressions from the works of Rnbcns would 
 censure Correggio as heavy ; and the admirers of Correggio would say Rubens wanted solitlity of 
 
QUENTYN MATSYS WELL. 15 
 
 2rftc HcgcnU of t\)t 331ndksmitlj. 
 
 Clang, clang, sounds the heavy hammer 
 
 Clang, clang, with a constant roar ; 
 Thicker fall the blows and faster 
 
 By that dingy smitliy door. 
 Sturdy is the blacksmitli's figure, 
 
 Firmly knit with strength enow 
 To lift the hammer like a plaything, 
 
 Yet there's pain upon his brow. 
 Trouble sore and sad vexation 
 
 Clouds his handsome face the while, 
 Still he plies his old vocation : 
 
 Where is gone his olden smile ? 
 
 Clang, clang, goes the heavy hammer, 
 Clang, clang, with a constant roar. 
 
 Thicker fall tlie blows and faster 
 On that dingy smithy floor. 
 
 Supple now the stubborn iron 
 
 Twines within the craftsman's hand. 
 
 Into shapes and curves fantastic 
 Twists it still at his command, 
 
 effect. Tliere is lightness, airiness, and facility in Rubens, his advocates will urge, and compara- 
 tively a laborious heaviness in Correggio, whose admirers will complain of Rubens's manner 
 being careless and unfinished, whilst the works of Correggio are wrought to the highest degree of 
 delicacy ; and what may be advanced in favour of Correggio's breadth of light will, by his 
 censurers, be called affected and pedantic. It must be observed, that we are speaking solely of 
 the manner, the effect of the picture ; and we may conclude, according to the custom in pastoral 
 poetry, by bestowing on each of these illustrious painters a garland, without attributing superiority 
 to either, 
 
 " To conclude, — I will venture to repeat in favour of Rubens, what I have before said in 
 regard to the Dutch school, — that those who cannot see the extraordinary merit of this great 
 painter, either have a narrow conception of the variety of art, or are led away by the affectation 
 of approving nothing but what comes from the Italian school." — Tuurin Holland and Flanders, by 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds. 
 
16 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 Till on upright standards stately 
 
 A roof is fasliion'd, light and tall, 
 AVith an iron carved figure 
 Pois'd like pinnacle o'er all. 
 
 Mid the clang of heavy hammer, 
 
 Screech of file, and bellows' roar, 
 Faster works the smith and faster 
 On the hot and dusty floor. 
 
 He has wrought with fierce devotion. 
 
 And at last his task is done, 
 Down he casts his heavy hammer, 
 
 Forth he walks into the sun. 
 Antwerp's spire, so graceful tapering, 
 
 Rich in tracery towards the sky, 
 Ne'er attracts his sad attention, 
 Fix'd upon a casement nigh. 
 
 " Cursed be the clang of hammer. 
 
 Screech of files and bellows' voice, 
 Since it keeps me from my lover. 
 From the maiden of my choice ! " 
 
 Suddenly his face upbrighten'd. 
 
 Gone the sadness — brow unknit, 
 As a thought of hope came o'er him, 
 
 He might win his mistress yet. 
 
 tT y^ Tf^ TF y^ 
 
 Silent soon the heavy hammer. 
 Cold the fire, untrod the floor, 
 
 Rusty gi-ows the Blacksmith's anvil, 
 Cobwebs tie the smithy door. 
 
 A month has fled, and who comes now 
 With a lightsome tread and a joyous brow? 
 He enters the home of the maiden fair, -» 
 He lifts the latch, and he mounts the stair, > 
 
 o there : — J 
 
 Seeking her fathei"'s atudk 
 
QUENTYN MATSTS' WELL. 
 
 17 
 
 " The Blacksmith ! "What ? — you know my vow ?" 
 " No blacksmith — but A Painter now ; — 
 Behold my work — behold your son, 
 Learn what the force of love has done ! " 
 
 Before the father's startled gaze 
 
 See now a picture stand, 
 Rich in the limner's every grace. 
 
 Wrought by a Master's hand. 
 
 " Love a miracle has wrought. 
 
 Love a miracle has done, 
 Blacksmith he my daughter sought. 
 Painter he has won : 
 
 Call the maiden to my side, 
 QuENTYN Matsys take your bride." 
 
 And this story of true love 
 
 Wlieu the Antwerp gossips tell, 
 Still, in token of its truth. 
 
 They point to Matsys' well. 
 Though the Painter and his spouse 
 
 Ages since to dust have gone. 
 Still the iron that he wrought 
 
 Canopies the stone. 
 If the Legend runs aright, 
 
 A Phantom comes at dead of night, 
 Plies the Blacksmith's dingy trade, 
 
 Aaid fills the seams that Time has made. 
 There until our day it stands, 
 
 Still preserv'd by elfin hands, 
 Still its curves fantastic tell 
 
 How Love wbought a Miracle. * 
 
 QUENTTN MATSYS' WELL. 
 
 * " The monument of Matsys himself, exhibiting his portrait in bas-relief, together with his 
 arms and epitaph, may be seen attached to the wall of the western front of the cathedral of 
 Antwerp, at the foot of the great tower, and immediately opposite to the iron frame of the fountain. 
 Under the portrait is this inscription : " Quintino Metsiis, incomparabilis artis pictori, admiratrix 
 grataque posteritas anno post obitum s^eculari cia. lo. c. xxxix posuit." On another stone is the 
 
 following line : ■ 
 
 " Connubialis amor de Mulcibre fecit Apellem." 
 
18 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK, 
 
 When Rubens, Quentyn Matsys, and the other painters whose names and 
 works are associated with the Cathedral, have received their meed of admiration, 
 
 the Traveller will 
 scarcely fail to remark 
 another feature of the 
 edifice. The Carver, as 
 well as the Painter and 
 the Architect, has helped 
 to complete the effect of 
 the Gothic churches of 
 Belgium ; and in Ant- 
 werp still remain many 
 of the most elaborate 
 works of the chisel. For 
 the eye that loves a Go- 
 thic interior this adds 
 greatly to the interest of 
 the Flemish places of 
 worship. The Wood- 
 Carver is the only proper 
 Sculptor for a Gothic 
 edifice : marble is too cold 
 and classic, and harmo- 
 nises but indifferently 
 with the grotesque and 
 elaborate decorations of 
 an ancient chapel. The 
 pulpit and the confession- 
 als of Antwerp Cathedral 
 afford proof of the skill and 
 industry expended upon 
 oak carvings in this countiy in old times ; and the stalls in the choir show that 
 the Belgians of our day are not willing to be outdone by their forefathers in 
 zealous attention to the decoration of their religious edifices. 
 
 When the buildings, the pictures, and the carvings have been admired, the 
 Traveller should close his eyes, if he desires to retain a favourable impression of 
 the religion and of the people. He should not see thejripperi/ of the churches ; the 
 dolls, the tinsel, the flounced petticoats, and " Bartlemy " finery. If, howevei', he is 
 a student of human nature, as well as an admirer of the arts, he can then note the 
 number of kneeling penitents before a greasy collection of half-burned candles, as 
 
 ANTWERP CArHEURAL, 
 
RELIGION LN ANTAVERP. 
 
 19 
 
 they " gutter" away in sickly-looking waste during the broad daylight before some 
 decked-out wooden Virgin or wax saint. He may visit also " the Calvary," with 
 its theatrical array of flames, saints, and evangelists ; and, peeping through the 
 iron grating of the sham sepulchre, may behold " the Tomb of the Crucifixion," 
 with its collection of gold and silver offerings made by the devout. 
 
 THE CALVARYj ANTWERP. 
 
 In a gloomy cave, dimly visible in the half light, lies a figure intended to repre- 
 sent Christ. The face and hands only are seen, the body being covered by a 
 cere-cloth. Small silver crosses, embossed hearts, crucifixes, and trinkets of 
 various shapes lie upon the figure, and hang suspended beside it, whilst an empty 
 lamp, similarly complimented by devotees, hangs above. The stone upon which 
 the worshippers kneel, when they come to pray before this waxen Saviour, is 
 worn hollow by human knees ! More than a century ago a poet said : — 
 
 " When Superstition (bane of manly virtues) 
 Strikes root within the soul ; it over-iuns 
 And kills the power of reason." 
 
20 
 
 THE RHDTE BOOK. 
 
 Let the Traveller draw his own conclusions ; but, if they be unfavourable to the 
 religion which makes such displays, let him remember that Belgium is at present 
 " the most Catholic country in Europe ; " and that to give utterance to sentiments 
 inimical to the faith of the land he has come to see, is — to say the best of it — 
 bad taste. His opinions are his own ; let his tongue be his own also, and let him 
 hold it fast. 
 
 
 p ■■>' 
 
 CAJIVED OAK. PULFIT, — ftSlWERF CA.TBJ£URAX. 
 
INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER. 
 
 1 Cathedral. 
 
 2 St. Jacques. 
 
 3 St. Paul. 
 
 4 St. Andrf. 
 
 5 St. Augustin. 
 
 6 St. Charles. 
 
 7 St. Antoine. 
 
 8 St. Joseph. 
 
 9 French Chapel. 
 
 10 Exchange. 
 
 1 1 Great Theatre. 
 
 12 Varietes' Theatre. 
 
 13 Town House. 
 
 14 Museum. 
 
 15 Civil Hospital. 
 Ifi Bank. ■ 
 
 17 Post Office. 
 
 18 Horse Post. 
 
 19 Rubens' House. 
 
 20 Government House. 
 
 21 Military Hospital. 
 
 22 King^s Palace. 
 
 23 Beguinage. 
 
 24 Botanical Garden. 
 
 25 Anseatic House. 
 
 ANTWERP. 
 
 CHIEF THINGS TO BE SEEN IN ANTWERP. 
 
 1. The Cathedral, (one of the most splendid 
 Gothic works in existence,) with pictures by 
 Rubens, Vandyke, and others. 
 
 2. The Church of St. Jacques — Pictures by 
 Rubens and Vandyke, and tomb of Rubens. 
 
 3. Rubens' House. 
 
 4. The Church of St. Paul — Paintings — 
 the Calvary. 
 
 5. The Church of the Augustines — Pictures 
 by Rubens, Vandyke, and Jordaens. 
 
 6. The Museum — Collection of Paintings. 
 
 7. The Statue of Rubens. 
 
 8. The Citadel. 
 
 Post Ofpice. — Chief post office, Place 
 
 Verte; branch offices; 1. at the corner of the 
 Place des Fa9ons ; 2. Fosses aux Crapauds, 
 opposite the Rue de I'Empereur ; 3. Place de 
 Meir, at the corner of the Rue du Chene ; 4. at 
 the Petit-Marche. 
 
 Theatres. — Royal Theatre, open Sunday, 
 Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Comedies, 
 dramas, grand operas, comic ditto, burlesques. 
 Price of admittance: 1st boxes and stalls, 3 
 francs 50 cents ; 2nd boxes and parquet, 2 francs 
 50 cents ; Pit boxes, 2 francs ; Pit, 1 franc 50 
 cents. 
 
 Theatre des Varietes, Place St. George. 
 Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday. Secondary 
 style comedies and vaudevilles. Price of ad- 
 mittance : 1st boxes, 2 francs ; 1st gallery and 
 
22 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 parquet, 1 franc 50 cents ; 2nd boxes, 1 franc ; 
 Pit, 75 cents. 
 
 Private Clubs. — The Philotaxe, Rue des 
 Tanneurs; the Union, Place Verte; Chess 
 Club, Place de Meir; the William Tell, Rue 
 Leopold ; Military Club, Place Verte. Stran- 
 gers are admitted on being presented by a 
 member. 
 
 Hackkey Coaches. — Vigilantes, Place 
 Verte; Place de Meir; Fare within the walls 
 50 cents (5rf. Eng. ) ; by the hour, 1 franc 25 
 cents the 1st hour, and 1 franc each ensuing 
 hour. 
 
 Antwerp, in Flemish Antwerpen, the chief 
 town of the province of that name, is situated in 
 a plain 51° 13' 16" N. latitude, and 2° 3' 55" 
 East longitude, 20 leagues from the sea, on the 
 right bank of the Scheldt. 
 
 The Scheldt, in Flemish Schelde, the largest 
 of the two rivers of Belgium, rises in France, 
 near the Castelet (department of the Aisne), 
 receives the canal of St. Quentin at Cambrai, 
 passes under the walls of Bouchain, Valen- 
 ciennes and Conde, and enters Belgium after 
 its junction with the Scarpe : it waters the 
 western part of the province of Hainault, runs 
 to Tournay, Esquelmes, and Herinnes, where it 
 forms the limit between Hainault and West 
 Flanders ; it then divides the latter from East 
 Flanders, runs towards the N. E. by Oudenarde 
 and Ghent : suddenly changing its direction 
 from west to east, it waters Wetteren and 
 Dendermond ; it then bounds West Flanders 
 and the province of Antwerp : at the fort of 
 Bath it divides itself into two considerable 
 branches; the southern, under the name of West 
 Scheldt (Hond or Wester Schelde), takes a 
 westerly direction across the southern part of 
 Zealand, and falls into the north sea below 
 Flushing, where it is 3 leagues and a half in 
 breadth. 
 
 The other branch, called the Eastern Scheldt 
 (Ooster Schelde), flows first to the N. E., on 
 the limits of North Brabant and Zealand, turns 
 towards the W. N. W., in the north of the first 
 of these provinces, and falls into the North Sea 
 
 by an opening 2 leagues and a half wide, 5 
 leagues N. N. E. from the West Scheldt. The 
 course of the Scheldt is 86 leagues, of which 
 about 13 compose the course just described; 
 its course in the province of Antwerp is II 
 leagues. The water is salt as far as the forts 
 of Lillo (15 leagues from its mouth); the 
 water is fresh at Antwerp, but too thick to be 
 drunk. The tide is perceivable in the Scheldt, 
 as far up as Ghent ; thus it influences the river 
 even as far as 40 leagues above its mouth. 
 
 History. — Antwerp is in the form of a 
 drawn bow, the string of which would be the 
 Scheldt. Its origin is obscure and fabulous, 
 like that of most ancient cities. According to 
 an old tradition, there existed, about the time 
 that Caesar entered Belgium, a giant named 
 Antigon, who demanded from all the merchants 
 who went up the river a certain part of their 
 merchandise; and when any one deceived him as 
 to the value, he not only confiscated the whole 
 of the goods, but he also cut off the merchant's 
 hand and threw it into the Scheldt. A certain 
 Salvius Brabon, or Brabant, killed the giant, 
 after having made him undergo the same 
 punishment ; thence the castle in which the 
 giant resided received the name of Antwerpen, 
 from the Flemish words Hand, a hand, and 
 Werpen, to cast. Notwitlistanding the fabu- 
 lous derivation of this origin, the remembrance 
 of the giant has been preserved ; his statue 
 figures in all solemn processions ; and in the 
 arms of the town may be seen two hands, and a 
 
 triangular castle St. Amand built the church 
 
 of St. Peter and St. Paul at Antwerp in the 
 7th century, and St. Eloy came to preach 
 there about the year 646. The Normans burnt 
 the town in 837, and in 885 they rtbuilt a 
 castle near the Werf, a door and three towers 
 of which still exist, though concealed by some 
 houses, built since 1480. 
 
 Trade. — Antwerp was under the yoke of 
 the kings of France until 977. In 1124 the 
 town was already very populous and extensive, 
 but it was only about the beginning of the 16th 
 century that it took a regular form ; from that 
 period it rapidly increased, and soon became 
 
ANTWERP. 
 
 23 
 
 the general mart of the North, the South, and 
 the East : its population exceeded 200,000 
 souls; it contained 300 painters and 140 gold- 
 smiths ; 5000 merchants daily assembled on 
 the exchange ; 500 vessels came up the Scheldt 
 to it every day ; a single tide frequently used 
 to bring up 400, and 2500 were usually at 
 anchor before the town, whilst 500 carriages 
 daily conveyed thither the merchandise of 
 France and Germany. The merchants of 
 Antwerp were so rich, that Charles V., having 
 one day vouchsafed to accept of an invitation to 
 dinner, at the house of one of them named 
 Daens, who had lent him 2,000,000 of florins, 
 the merchant put the emperor's note into the 
 fire, at the end of the feast, saying to him, " 1 
 am overpaid by the honour your Majesty has 
 conferred upon me to-day." This state of 
 prosperity ceased at the period of the wars of 
 religion ; the Iconoclasts pillaged the churches, 
 and destroyed the images; that of the Virgin 
 was insulted at the procession of August 15, 
 1566, and there was much blood shed in the 
 streets ; ten years afterwards Antwerp was 
 pillaged by the Spaniards, who burnt 500 
 houses, destroyed the town-hall, a master-piece 
 of architecture, and killed 10,000 citizens. 
 
 Sieges. — The siege which Antwerp withstood 
 in 1485 against the Prince of Parma is one of the 
 most celebrated in history. The bridge thrown 
 by the prince over the Scheldt, and the machines 
 he made use of, were astonishing. Antwerp 
 yielded to the French in 1792; they left it the 
 next year, but re-took it in 1794; it then be- 
 came the chief town of the department of the 
 Deux-Nethes. In 1809 the English attempted 
 to burn the dockyards and vessels, but were 
 repulsed; in 1814 they endeavoured to take 
 possession of the town, but General Carnot, 
 who was the commandant, only gave it up to 
 the allies after the treaty of Paris. It belonged 
 to the kingdom of the Netherlands until the 
 revolution of 1830, as the chief town of the 
 department of the same name. It is known 
 that in 1832 the French and Belgians attacked 
 the citadel occupied by the Dutch, and that 
 this memorable siege ended December 23, by 
 
 the capitulation of the besieged, after a siege of 
 24 days. 
 
 Present State. — Antwerp has now a popu- 
 lation of 78,000 inhabitants ; the width of the 
 greater part of its streets, the number of its 
 public squares, the vastness of the basins of its 
 port, the splendour of its churches, the beauty 
 of its buildings, the elegance of its numerous 
 mansions and private residences, render it one 
 of the most remarkable towns in Europe. 
 Among the principal squares worth notice are 
 the Town Hall, the Place Verte, the Place 
 Ste. Walburge, between the quays of Vandyke 
 and of Jordaens, and the Place de Meir ; the 
 latter is formed by the sudden widening of a 
 fine large street of the same name ; it contains 
 the king's palace, the interior of which is orna- 
 mented with fine paintings ; Napoleon had it 
 sumptuously furnished. The king lodges there 
 when he comes to Antwerp. 
 
 The Cathedral may certainly claim to rank 
 third in Europe in scale of magnificence. The 
 spire is variously estimated at 370 to 450 feet 
 in height ; and its true altitude is certainly 
 400 feet. In lightness and elegance it surpasses 
 all its compeers ; and as it decreases from story 
 to story as it ascends, its beauty becomes more 
 striking, whilst the graceful richness of its ap- 
 pearance calls to mind the graphic comparison 
 of Buonaparte, that it looked like Mechlin lace. 
 The construction of the spire was commenced 
 in 1422, and it took nearly a century to com- 
 plete It. It has a peal of the bells (Carillons) 
 for which Belgium is remarkable. The prin- 
 cipal one weighs 16,000 lbs. ; and the report is, 
 that the strength of sixteen men is reijuired to 
 ring it. The interior is as remarkable for its 
 decoration, as the exterior for its magnificence : 
 statues, pictures, carvings in wood, lamps, can- 
 delabra, and the other adjuncts of Romish wor- 
 ship, are there in profusion. The vast dimen- 
 sions of the building are seen to best advantage 
 from tlie organ-loft, from whence to the high 
 altar the distance is 500 feet ; the breadth is 
 240 feet, and the height of the roof is 360 feet. 
 The chief aisle is one of the largest known, 
 the side aisles are double, and two smaller aisles 
 
24 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 terminate at the cross-aisle. Before the French 
 revolution these smaller aisles were ornamented 
 with 32 marble altars, pictures and ornaments 
 of great value : there were 100 chandeliers of 
 massive silver, four altar fronts of the same 
 metal, and a remonstrance of massive gold, 
 which several sovereigns had been pleased to 
 enrich with diamonds. The church of Notre 
 Dame was raised to the rank of a cathedral by 
 Pope Paul IV. in 1569; Pius VII. suppressed 
 the bishopric of Antwerp in 1802 ; Notre 
 Dame, which then became a mere cure of the 
 first class, dependent on the archbishopric of 
 Mechlin, has nevertheless retained the title of a 
 cathedral. The pictures of Rubens are the 
 most admirable ornament of the edifice ; the 
 reputation of the Descent from the Cross is 
 universal ; it has often been engraved. Two 
 anecdotes with respect to this picture are 
 current. Rubens wished to alter the arrange- 
 ment of his house, which was contiguous to 
 that of the company of gunsmiths ; the latter, 
 perceiving that Rubens encroached upon their 
 ground, made a demand upon him ; Rubens 
 maintained his right ; a long lawsuit was about 
 to take place, when the burgomaster Rockox, 
 his friend, proposed an arrangement which was 
 agreed to. The ground in question was ceded 
 to Rubens on condition that he would paint 
 an altar-piece for the company, with shutters, 
 intended for the gunsmiths' chapel in the ca- 
 thedral : the picture was to represent St. Chris- 
 toplie, their patron saint. As the name of 
 Christophe signifies, according to the Greek 
 etymology, " to bear Christ," Rubens singularly 
 enough imagined a picture in which all the 
 figures should concur in bearing Christ, and he 
 painted his Descent from the Cross : upon the 
 shutters, by a similar allegory, he represented 
 the Visitation, in which the Holy Virgin, in her 
 pregnancy, also bears Christ ; and the Presen- 
 tation at the Temple, with tlie high priest 
 Simeon bearing tlie child Jesus in his arms. 
 But the gunsmiths wanted a Saint Christophe, 
 and not an allegorical picture ; and a new law- 
 suit would have taken place, if Rul)ens had 
 not consented to paint a colossal figure of 
 
 St. Christophe on the exterior of one of the 
 shutters. It is also said, with respect to the 
 same master-piece, that during the great 
 master's usual walk, his pupils having obtained 
 his servant's permission to enter his paint- 
 ing room, one of them, being pushed by 
 another, fell on the picture, and eflfaced the arm 
 of Mary Magdalene, and the cheek and chin 
 of the Virgin that Rubens had just finished. 
 It is easy to imagine their consternation ; how- 
 ever, it was necessary to repair the misfortune ; 
 they prevailed upon the one whom they all 
 considered as the most able ; and the accident 
 was so well repaired, that next day Rubens said, 
 in the presence of his pupils, " Here are a head 
 and arm which are not the worst part of my 
 yesterday's work." That pupil was Vandyke. 
 
 After having admired the Descent from the 
 Cross, on crossing the church, we find another 
 picture by Rubens, every way worthy of the 
 great artist ; it represents the Elevation on the 
 Cross ; it was painted for the church of Ste. 
 Walburge ; the boldness of the composition is 
 only to be equalled by the beauty of the draw- 
 ing and the brilliancy of the colouring. These 
 two pictures, which were taken away by the 
 French during their dominion, were returned 
 after the treaty of 1815. The Assumption of 
 the Holy A^irgin, by the same artist, next 
 attracts our attention ; it is over the grand 
 altar ; it is one of his most magnificent compo- 
 sitions ; this great painting was executed in 16 
 days, and paid for at the rate of 100 florins per 
 day, the usual rate at which Rubens valued his 
 works. The ceiling of the elegant cupola over 
 the arch at the entrance of the choir also repre- 
 sents a picture of the Assumption, by C. Schut, 
 a pupil of Rubens. The cathedral is orna- 
 mented by other pictures ; there are remarkable 
 works by Herreins, Martyn-Pcpyn, Diepen- 
 beck, and Otto Venius, who was Rubens' 
 master ; by Martin Vos, &c., and magnificent 
 sculptures from the chisel of du Quesnoy, 
 Verbruggen, &c. Over the portico there is a 
 tower to whicli nothing can be compared for 
 lightness and elegance. 
 
 The Church of St. Jacques is a grand and 
 
ANTWERP, 
 
 25 
 
 imposing edifice, and contains a great number 
 of monuments and valuable objects, which have 
 b}' rare good fortune escaped the ravages of the 
 civil wars. Few churches present the curiosity 
 of the enlightened traveller with so great a 
 number of pictures and sculptures ; the former 
 by the most celebrated Flemish masters, among 
 whom are Vandyke, Martin de Vos, Hemling, 
 Frans- Flore, Otto-Venius, Seghers, and the 
 latter from the chisels of Verbruggen, Wervoort, 
 Willemsens, A. Quellyn, &c But what parti- 
 cularly excites interest is the chapel behind the 
 grand altar, consecrated to tlie family of Rubens, 
 and in which is seen his tomb. It is onl^' 
 marked by a large marble slab, upon which 
 are engraved his arms and a long inscription ; 
 but the finest ornament of this chapel is a 
 picture by the great artist, in which he has 
 painted his father and his two wives under the 
 name of St. Jerome, Martha, and JNIagdalene, 
 his grandfather under the figure of Time, and 
 his son under that of an angel. He has repre- 
 sented himself under the name of St. George ; 
 and in order that every thing about the chapel 
 may remind us of the great man, the altar is sur- 
 mounted by a Virgin in marble, a splendid work 
 by du Quesnoy, brought from Italy by Rubens. 
 Saint Paul, formerly the church of the 
 Dominicans, the name of whom it bore, was 
 founded by Henry III., duke of Brabant, in 
 1246, destroyed by the lightning in 1679, and 
 then rebuilt as it is at this day. A series of 15 
 pictures placed along the nave on the left is 
 veorthy of attention ; these pictures, by cele- 
 brated masters, represent the different periods 
 of the life of Christ and of the Holy Virgin, from 
 the Annunciation up to the Resurrection and 
 to the Crowning of Mary in Heaven. The 
 Flagellation, the Adoration of the Shepherds, 
 by Rubens, and the Bearing of the Cross, by 
 Vandyke, are remarkable masterpieces. A 
 monument shown in a sort of cloister annexed 
 to the church, and which is called the Calvary, 
 is a singular representation of the Passion of 
 Christ, the bad taste of which is, perhaps, 
 owing to the distant period at which it was 
 executed. It has several precious carvings. 
 
 Saint-Chakles Bokkomee is the old cluucli 
 of the Jesuits. It contains some fine wood- 
 work, and a few pictures by Seghers, Schut, dc 
 Crayer, and Janssens. 
 j Saint- Andre. — This church contains, be- 
 sides a few tine paintings, a mausoleum of 
 marble, erected by two English ladies to the 
 memory of the unfortunate Mary Queen of 
 Scots ; it is ornamented with a portrait of that 
 princess, the colour and expression of which 
 are good. 
 
 Town Hall (Hotel de Ville).— Tlils edi- 
 fice, built in 1560 and burnt in 1576, was 
 rebuilt in its present state in 1581 : the front 
 consists of several orders of architecture, raised 
 above a rustic basement ; a statue of the 
 Virgin has replaced, on the top of the building, 
 the giant to whom was attributed the origin 
 of Antwerp. In the square, surrounded by 
 houses built in the Spanish style, is that which 
 Charles V. used to occupy when he came to 
 Antwerp. — The Town Hall contains a public 
 library. 
 
 Private Collections. — Few towns possess 
 so many private collections : the inhabitants of 
 Antwerp have always shown much taste for 
 painting ; and it is not rare to find at the 
 houses of private persons Flemish and Dutch 
 paintings of the first order ; but some rich 
 amateurs possess complete galleries, almost all 
 of them open, with great politeness, to the 
 curiosity of strangers. 
 
 Port The port and docks of Antwerp 
 
 were formed by Napoleon; in 1806 two mag- 
 nificent docks of freestone, able to contain the 
 one 12, and the other 40 vessels of the line, 
 were terminated ; a military arsenal and dock- 
 yards, for the construction of ships of the line, 
 were opened, and warehouses and barracks 
 constructed. 
 
 Citadel. — Built by the Spaniards in 1568 ; 
 the fortifications of this town have undergone 
 several alterations : but the different bastions 
 still bear names which prove their origin ; the 
 citadel is divided from the Scheldt by a small 
 dam, in which there is a sluice, which allows of 
 the ditches being filled with water, at a mo- 
 
26 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 ment's notice. On the left bank of the Scheldt, 
 and almost opposite to the citadel, is the fort 
 called the Tete de Flandre, which is in the 
 commune of Zwyndrecht. A steam-boat crosses 
 several times a-day from Antwerp. 
 
 Celebrated Men. — A number of illustrious 
 persons, almost all painters, were born at Ant- 
 werp : Calvaert (Denis), born 1565, died 1619. 
 — Crayer (Gaspard de), died in 1669. — Rubens 
 (Peter Paul), whose parents were both from 
 Ant'verp, but who was born at Cologne, 
 June 29. 1577, and died May SO- 1640, at 
 Antwerp, where he had always resided. — Jor- 
 d lens (James), born 1593, died 1678. — Teniers 
 (David), born 1610, died 1694. — Vandyke 
 
 (Antony), the most celebrated of Rubens's 
 pupils, and often equal to his master ; born 
 
 1599, died 1641 Gramaye (John Baptist), 
 
 the historiographer of the Low- Countries, died 
 1635. — Engelgrave (Henry), a learned Jesuit, 
 born 1610. — Edelinck (Gerard), a celebrated 
 engraver, born 1649, died 1707. — Matsys 
 (Quentin), called the Farrier of Antwerp, on 
 account of his first profession of a farrier or 
 blacksmith, died at Antwerp in 1529, aged 79. 
 — Sadeler ( Giles), an engraver, born 1570, died 
 1629 Snyders (Francis), a painter and en- 
 graver, celebrated for his pictures of fruits, 
 and particularly of animals, born 1587, died 
 1657. 
 
 
BELGIAN RAILROADS. 
 
 27 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 THE RAILROAD TRIP. BRUSSELS. A MORNING AT WATERLOO. 
 
 When the Traveller turns his back upon the fortifications of Antwerp on his 
 way to the train, he quickly discovers the peculiarities of the Belgian railroads. 
 The low fares, the signals by trumpet instead of bell, the military look of the 
 servants, the smallness and slightness of the carriages, remind him that he is not 
 in England, He soon finds, too, how admirably adapted Belgium is for railroads, 
 its level surface supei'seding all necessity for cuttings, tunnels or viaducts; whilst 
 the works having been taken up by the government with a view to the general 
 improvement of the country, instead of by a private company for the purposes of 
 individual profit, the lines have all been laid down on a wise and uniform system, 
 and the host of expenses which clog the first movements of a projected I'ailroad in 
 England have been saved.* No scheming attorneys, no voracious counsel, no 
 
 * The Acts of Parliament for the London and Birmingham Railway cost 72,000/. ; the value 
 of the land and compensations amounted to 706,1 52/. ; and the law charges, engineering, and other 
 preliminary e.xpenses, were 67,893/, ; so that the total charges, before commencing the works, were 
 little short of one million sterling. On the Great Western line, the expenses, before obtaining the 
 Act, were 89,000/., and the parliamentary charges figure in the accounts at 29,104/. 
 
28 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 land-jobbers seeking to be bribed, in fact none of the enormous charges incurred 
 in England before a single rail can be laid. The engineers had a carte blanche 
 to do what was wisest ; and accordingly Belgium is intersected with lines having 
 no incubus of debt upon them, and consequently ready to carry the traveller on 
 his way at less than half the price charged in England. The fares by the third- 
 class carriages are indeed so low, that the labouring population of the country are 
 able to 23ay for a journey to market without inconvenience, even from their small 
 wages. The cost per mile of the Belgian lines, including the compensation for 
 land and all other charges, was 16,206/. per mile; the cost of the London and 
 Birmingham line was 48,000/. per mile ! All the lines pass a common centre out- 
 side the town of Malines, to Avhich every train runs ; and consequently every 
 passenger must pass this point. 
 
 The country from Antwerp to Brussels affords a good idea of Belgium in 
 general. Its level surface presents, in rapid succession, rich meadows, luxuriant 
 corn-fields, green hedge-rows, with occasional patches of woodland. The smallness 
 of the fields tells amongst how many hands the land is divided, and prepares us 
 for the fact, that East Flanders is the most thickly-peopled corner of Europe. 
 
 The exception to this general character of the 
 scenery is found in the valley of the IMeuse, 
 where the fruitful serenity of fertile meadows 
 and pastoral hamlets is varied by bolder, more 
 ' ^ - irregular, and more striking natural features. 
 
 Hills and rocks, blulf head- 
 
 
 lands and winding valleys, 
 with beautiful stretches of 
 river scenery, give a charm to 
 the landscape which Belgium 
 in general does not display. 
 
 But let us turn fi-om facts 
 and figures to the moving 
 ?f^- panorama before us. In rapid 
 succession we pass various 
 points worthy of notice. First 
 comes BERCHEJr — the head- 
 quarters of the French when 
 they besieged Antwerp in 
 1832, and the spot where the 
 Count dc iNIerode, wliose mo- 
 nument we shall see in Brus- 
 sels Cathedral, fell mortally 
 
MALINES. 
 
 29 
 
 wounded when pursuing the retreating Dutch in the revolution of 1830. On 
 our right is Yieux-Dieu, so named from its having been the resting-place of a 
 pagan idol, which, before Chi-istianity shed its light upon the land, was here 
 worshipped by thousands of the ancient Belgfe. Cantich station announces 
 that we are half way to Malines ; and the next point of importance is Duffel, 
 on the river Nethe, which boasts the fine old Gothic castle of Ter-elst. 
 
 ]\Ialines, where we soon find ourselves, has many associations for the English- 
 man. It reminds him of Sterne and his Maria ; of the Duke of IMarlborough, 
 who was the first to take military possession of this town, which he did in 1704, 
 and so deprived it of the name it bore before that time of La Pucelle ; whilst 
 to the lady-traveller it speaks of Mechlin lace. 
 
 The tower of the Cathedral of Malines is a fine object ; and the lover of painting, 
 if he makes time to visit the building, will find within it the finest of Vandyke's 
 pictures — Christ crucified between Two Thieves. The Church of St. John, not far 
 from the Cathedral, boasts the favoui-ite, if not the most perfect, composition of 
 Rubens. That ]\Iaster set great value on the paintings in this church, which com- 
 prise the IVorship of the Magi, with two painted shutters or wings, and three 
 other small pictures. " To see my best works," Rubens used to say, " you must 
 go to St. John of Mechlin." His autograph receipt is still in the vestry, with the 
 date of March 12th, 1624 : it is for 1800 florins for eight paintings, completed, 
 it is said, in eighteen days, and valued at his usual rate. 
 
 The trumpet soon gives the signal, and Mechlin is behind us as we leave the 
 
 province of Antwerp to enter that of Brabant. Vilvorde is the largest place we 
 
 pass ; but the most interesting points are indicated by the steeples of Elewyt 
 
 and Perck — small rural places, made illustrious by the abode of Rubens and 
 
 Teniers. Rubens lived in the old castle of Steen, near Elewyt, and painted 
 
 in its rural retreat many of his best 
 
 landscapes. Teniers had a country 
 house at Perck, called the " Three 
 Toioers" — Dry Toren. The train 
 stops at Yilvorde, where, just three 
 centuries ago, William Tyndale, a na- 
 tive of Gloucestershire, the translator 
 of the first English version of the 
 New Testament, was strangled at the 
 stake as a heretic for rendering the 
 Scriptures into " a vulgar tongue." 
 A pious and learned divine, with 
 great gentleness of heart, but greater 
 firmness of purpose, he was driven 
 
30 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 from his quiet home in the West 
 of Enghxnd hy the impending 
 storm of persecution, and finding 
 that his personal liberty was in 
 danger, he took ship, and visited 
 Luther. His translation was com- 
 pleted and printed at Wittem- 
 berg, and, in spite of the dangers 
 incurred, it circulated widely 
 through England. This success 
 aggravated the former anger of 
 Henry the Eighth and Sir Thomas 
 More, and the Chancellor de- 
 nounced the absent divine in the 
 most virulent terms. The ex- 
 
 isting epistles of the after- 
 wards beheaded minister 
 display a rancour of feeling 
 but little creditable to his 
 memory. Great pains were 
 taken to lure Tyndale back 
 to his native country, but 
 he was too wary to trust 
 specious promises, or hollow 
 professions for his welfare. 
 Not so his fellow exile 
 John Frith, who, in sim- 
 plicity of spirit, thought the 
 word of a king when backed 
 by that of a Chancellor 
 
 HOIEL IJE VILLE. BRUSSELS. 
 
 might be relied on. He accei)ted More's invitation to England — and was burnt. 
 Tyndale, however, w ith all his talent, his piety, his learning, and pure heartedness, 
 was no match for his bigoted enemies. An agent from Henry entrapped him 
 
BRUSSELS. 31 
 
 at Antwerp : an accusation of heresy was easily believed when a king and 
 his minister were witnesses, and the translator of the earliest English version 
 of the New Testament, — a version largely used in the preparation of our 
 authorized edition of the Bible, — died by the hands of the executioner at Vil- 
 vorde. His last words were, " The Lord open the eyes of the King of England." 
 His body was afterwards burnt at a stake on the spot where the huge prison 
 now stands — a building which the traveller can scarcely fail to notice, and 
 which is conducted according to the latest theories of the art of ingeniously tor- 
 menting by solitary confinement and eternal silence. As we ajjproach Brussels, 
 we see on the right the palace Laeken, the out-of-town residence of the King, 
 and memorable as the house in which Napoleon wrought his own ruin by plan- 
 ning his disastrous campaign of Russia, It was there he signed the declaration 
 of war against the Czar, and there enjoyed the society of Maria Theresa, the 
 successor of the amiable, the talented, but deserted Josephine. 
 
 Are not these scenes and these facts, and the reflections they call up, enough to 
 amuse pleasantly the seventy-five minutes occupied by the railroad journey fi*om 
 Antwerp to Brussels? — where we now are. 
 
 Brussels is a double city. The upper town, with its Park, its Palaces, its 
 Grande Place, its trees, statues, fountains, broad, handsome promenades, gay, 
 careless population, is, indeed, a " little Paris." Walk down the steep Montagne 
 de la Cour, and, as you descend, you will find yourself step by step approaching 
 another and a different city. A short way down the hill, three minutes' walk 
 to the right, stands the Cathedral of Saint Gudule — a fine monument of the 
 middle ages ; still lower down, on the left, is the Hotel de Ville, in its square of 
 tall, gable-fronted, highly-decorated Spanish houses. 
 
 On the hill top, five minutes since, you fancied yourself in Paris — for language, 
 costume, shops, manner, all were French ; at the hill foot, it is quite certain we 
 ai-e in Flanders. The markets are all hei'e ; and the peasant women bring, with 
 their fruit, the faces, foi-ms, and costume of the country. In the high town, if you 
 spoke Flemish, you would be answered in French ; here, if you speak French, you 
 are answered in Flemish. Standing on one of the bridges which cross the river of 
 Brussels — the narrow, dirty, and unnavigable Senne — you may fancy yourself in 
 a by-street in Ghent or Bruges. The same broad, coarse-featured women ; the 
 same full-bodied, slow-moving men ; the same wooden shoes, and occasional 
 lonf-eared caps ; the same tall, quaint houses, lumbering carts, and almost the same 
 air of antiquity and decay which now reigns in those once rich and all-powerful 
 cities. With the permanent resident, French Brussels soon becomes the favourite ; 
 to the passing visitor, Flemish Brussels must ever be the most interesting. The 
 square in which the Hotel de Ville stands is certainly the most perfect instance 
 of a large mass of Gothic buildings existing in our time, in the precise aspect they 
 
32 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 displayed when Charles the Fifth of Spain ruled the destinies of the people of this 
 part of Europe. It was in the centre of this square that the blood of the Counts 
 Egmont and Horn was slied by command of the cruel Duke Alva, who stood, it is 
 said, at one of the neighbouring windows, to see the blood of his victims stain the 
 scaffold. It was in this square also that the Ball was held at which the Duke of 
 Wellington and liis officers were dancing when the news came that Napoleon 
 was i-eady for the affray at Waterloo. Btkox has pinned the incident upon the 
 skirt of Fame. 
 
 " There was a sound of revelry by night, 
 
 And Belgium's capital had gather'd then 
 
 Her beauty and her Chivalry, and bright 
 
 The lamps shone o'er fair women and brave men ; 
 
 A thousand hearts beat happily ; and when 
 
 Music arose with its voluptuous swell. 
 
 Soft eyes look'd love to eyes which spake again, 
 
 And all went merry as a marriage bell : 
 But hush ! hark ! a deep sound strikes like a rising knell I 
 
 " Did ye not hear it? — -No; 'twas but the wind, 
 
 Or the car rattling o'er the stony street: 
 
 On with the dance ! let joy be unconfin'd ; 
 
 No sleep till morn, when Youth and Pleasure meet 
 
 To chase the glowing hours with flying feet — 
 
 But, hark I — that heavy sound breaks in once more. 
 
 As if the clouds its echo would repeat ! 
 
 And nearer, clearer, deadlier than before ! 
 Arm ! arm ! it is — it is — the cannon's op'ning roar ! 
 
 " Within a window'd niche of that high hall 
 
 Sate Brunswick's fated chieftain ; he did hear 
 
 That sound the first amidst the festival. 
 
 And caught its tone, with Death's prophetic ear. 
 
 And when they smil'd, l)ecause he deem'd it near; 
 
 His heart more truly knew that ))eal too well, 
 
 Wliich stretch'd his father on a bloody bier ; 
 
 And roiis'd the vengeance blood alone could (piell ; 
 lie rush'd into the field, and, foremost lighting, fell. 
 
 " y\li ! then and there was hurrying to and fro; 
 And gathering tears, and trenihliiiiis of distress. 
 And cheeks all pale, which but an hour ago 
 Blush'd at the praise of their own loveliness: 
 
THE CATHEDRAL OK BRUSSELS. 33 
 
 And there were sudden partings, such as press 
 The life from out young hearts, and choking sighs 
 Which ne'er might be repeated; who could guess 
 If ever more should meet those mutual eyes, 
 Since upon nights so sweet such awful morn could rise? 
 
 " And there was mounting in hot haste : the steed, 
 
 Tlie must'ring squadron, and the clatt'ring car, 
 
 Went pouring forward with impetuous speed. 
 
 And swiftly forming in the ranks of war, 
 
 And the deep thunder peal on peal afar. 
 
 And near, the beat of the alarming drum, 
 
 Rous'd up the soldier ere the morning star ; 
 
 While throng'd the citizens with terror dumb, 
 Or whisp'ring with white lips — " The foe ! They come ! they come !" 
 
 More interesting still, in one of the chief chambers of the Hotel cle Ville, a 
 tapestried room is still open to the traveller, in which Charles the Fifth abdicated 
 his throne ; willingly resigning, by one great mental effort, an amount of power 
 often sought, but seldom gained by one man. 
 
 The inscription on the old building opposite the Town Hall, in large golden 
 letters — ^^ A peste,fa>ne, et hello libera nos, 3Iaria pads !" — is said to refer to a 
 plague and famine which depopulated the city at the end of the fifteenth century. 
 
 The Cathedral does not greatly interest the traveller who has just left Antwerp, 
 its painted glass being the only feature it may boast of as superior to the attrac- 
 tions of the churches of that city. It is, however, a very fine building ; and those 
 who have the strength and the will to wind up the tortuous stairs leading to the top 
 of the tower are rewarded for their pains by an extensive view of the country — 
 a view, however, not equal to that presented to the eye from the summit of the 
 Hotel de Ville. Like all cathedrals, this one has a patron saint in St. Gudule ; as 
 the legend runs, a holy virgin daughter of a Flemish noble, born some twelve 
 hundred years ago, at Vilvorde. Like all Saint Patronesses, the story of her life is 
 filled with marvels too strong for the slender faith of this our later generation. 
 Her holy life began as early as the age of twelve, when she subjected her 
 youthful body, by nature delicate, to the penances and mortifications which form 
 so prominent a pai't of the duty of all candidates for canonisation. Long nights 
 were spent in prayer ; and when, on her way to the chapel, her lamp was extin- 
 guished, it was re-lighted in answer to her supplications. Various were the 
 miracles she wrought. A wild youth sought to ravish a kiss from her saintly 
 lips, when a column of the church opened at her command, and received her 
 within its stony protection until the abashed suitor departed. Her charity was 
 unparalleled, and her Ave Marias unnumbered ; and, at her death, prayers at her 
 tomb worked miracles. When the Norman invaders sacked the place, her body 
 
34 
 
 THE IIIIINE BOOK. 
 
 was stolen as the richest prize which the convent of Moselle could yield, and 
 taken to Liege ; but half a century afterwards it was restored to Brussels. A 
 
 brother of Kins: Lothair of 
 F'rance, some years after- 
 wards, had the temei-ity to 
 seek sight of the saint's face ; 
 but when his willing vassals 
 sought to open St. Gudule's 
 coiBn, a thick black smoke 
 came forth so rapidly that 
 nothing could be seen ; and 
 the aftrighted prince closed 
 the sepulchre, shouting 
 " another miracle." Such are 
 the stories of the lives of the 
 Romish saints, and such the 
 tales which, in the nine- 
 teenth century, the Romish 
 priesthood call on their flocks 
 to believe — and in many 
 cases they do believe them. 
 
 High mass is a fine sight 
 at all times, but it has an 
 unusual magnificence in this 
 cathedral. Round about the 
 choir, high up, are ranged 
 the hei'aldic shields of the 
 Knights of the Golden 
 Fleece, in memory of chap- 
 ters of the Order held here 
 by Philip the Good and by 
 Charles tlie Fii'th ; wliilst the 
 nave is distinguislied by 
 twelve colossal statues of the 
 Apostles, ranged far above 
 the heads of the kneeling votaries below. Tlic pulpit is a remarkable work, irom 
 the chisel of the great Flemish artist Verbruggen, the Canova of wood-carvers. 
 Its subject is the Expulsion of Adam and Eve from the garden of Paradise. 
 
 BHUSEiEm CAlQEUaAL. 
 
 H And tliey licard tlic voice of the Loan God walk'm;; in the f;ar(K'n in tlu- cool of tlic day ; and 
 
WATEKLOO. 35 
 
 Adam and his wife hid themselves from the prestnce of the Lord God amongst the trees of the 
 garden. 
 
 9 And the Lord God called unto Adam, and said unto him, Where art thou ? 
 
 10 And he said, I heard thy voice in the garden, and I was afraid, because I was naked ; and I 
 hid myself. 
 
 1 1 And he said. Who told thee that thou wast naked ? Hast thou eaten of the tree, whereof I 
 commanded thee that thou shouldest not eat? 
 
 12 And the man said, The woman whom thou gavest to he with me, she gave me of the tree, 
 and I did eat. 
 
 13 And the Lord God said unto the woman. What is this that thou hast done? And the 
 woman said, The serpent beguiled me, and I did eat. 
 
 14 And the Lord God said unto the serpent. Because thou hast done this, thou art cursed 
 above all cattle, and above every beast of the field ; upon thy belly shalt thou go, and dust shalt 
 thou eat all the days of thy life. 
 
 17 And unto Adam he said. Because thou hast hearkened unto the voice of thy wife, and hast 
 eaten of the tree, of which I commanded thee, saying. Thou shalt not eat of it : cursed is the 
 ground for thy sake ; in sorrow shalt thou eat of it all the days of thy life ; 
 
 18 Thorns also and thistles shall it bring forth to thee; and thou shalt eat the herb of the 
 field. 
 
 19 In the sweat of thy face shalt thou eat bread, till thou return unto the ground ; for out of it 
 wast thou taken : for dust thou art, and unto dust shalt thou return. 
 
 » * » * * m m 
 
 2,3 Therefore the Loun God sent him forth from the garden of Eden, to till the ground from 
 whence he was taken. 
 
 Genesis, Chap. III. 
 
 From Brussels itself, the attention of the Englishman is soon turned towards 
 Waterloo. The field on which the destinies of Napoleon and of Europe were 
 decided will always have an historical interest of its own ; but by the native of 
 our " sea-girt isle," that interest must ever be felt with " thrice threefold " force. 
 It flatters our national pride, to reflect that the troops of England gave the final 
 and the fatal blow to the mightiest of modern conquerors, — to the self- created 
 Emperor, whose power was grounded upon the ruins of the thrones of Europe : 
 hence the tens of thousands of Englishmen who have visited the field, and hence 
 the constant enquiry of the English at Brussels, " Have you been to Waterloo 
 yet ? " Not that there is anything to see beyond a few monuments and some fine 
 corn fields : but is there more at Marathon, at Thermopylae ? On a fine day the 
 drive through the forest of Soignies is agreeable, and the pleasure of the trip is 
 enhanced by the recollection that the ground has been well trodden by all our 
 best modern poets, novelists, statesmen, and soldiers. Byron, with allowable 
 licence, converts Soignies into Ardennes, and the beauty of the stanza would com- 
 pensate a thousand such liberties taken with the dry facts of the geographer. 
 After recounting the hasty departure of troops from Brussels, Childe Harold says : 
 
36 
 
 THE UHINE i;OOK. 
 
 Jr;CERAl- 
 
 " Ardennes waves above them her green leaves, 
 
 Dewy with nature's tear-drops, as they pass. 
 
 Grieving, if aught inanimate e'er grieves, 
 
 Over the iinretiirning brave, — alas ! 
 
 Ere evening to be trodden like the grass 
 
 Which now l)eneatli them, but above shall grow 
 
 In its next verdure, when this fiery mass 
 
 Of living valour, rolling on the foe 
 And burning with high hope, shall moulder cold and low." 
 
 Walter Scott is said to have gone tlirongh the forest broatliing great guns 
 against Bonaparte, whilst Soutiiey, who was at "Waterloo before either Byron or 
 Sir Walter, has left us in rhyme a good guide to the field. With the Laureate's 
 poetry, and Serjeant Cotton's prose, the tourist will have all he requires. The 
 Serjeant, it may be well to say, is an old English soldier now living upon the field 
 where he once fought, and earning an honest penny by " fighting the battle o'er 
 aofain " for the information and amusement of all who seek his services as Guide. 
 Under his guidance the Traveller should see the place occu[)ied by the Duke as 
 his Head- quarters, and should note well the points where the fight was thickest. 
 The poet gives his description in a very business-like manner, and his rhymes 
 with a few illustrative .sketches will give a faitliful and lasting impression of 
 Wiitcrloo. 
 
"WATERLOO. 
 
 37 
 
 W> ].Lir-;CV10N 3 HEaU-'iC AKTERS AT WATF.RLOO. 
 
 " Southward from Brussels lies the field of blood, 
 Some three hours' journey for a well-girt man ; 
 A horseman who in haste pursued his road 
 Would reach it as the second hour began. 
 The way is through a forest deep and wide. 
 Extending many a mile on either side. 
 
 " No cheerful woodland this of antique trees, 
 
 With thickets varied and with sunny glade ; 
 Look where he will, the weary traveller sees 
 
 One gloomy, thick, impenetrable shade 
 Of tall straight trunks, which move before his siglit, 
 With interchange of lines of long green light. 
 
 " Here, where the woods receding from the road 
 
 Have left on either hand an open space 
 
 For fields and gardens, and for man's abode. 
 
 Stands Waterloo ; a little lowly place. 
 Obscure till now, when it hath risen to fame, 
 And given the victory its English name. 
 
38 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 Behold the scene where Slaughter had full sway ! 
 
 A mile before us lieth INIount St. John, 
 The hamlet which the Highlanders that day 
 
 Preserv'd from spoil ; yet as much farther on 
 The single farm is plac'd, now known to fame, 
 Wliich from the sacred hedge derives its name. 
 
 nODviOnMONT 
 
 " Straight onward yet for one like distance more, 
 And there the house of Belle Alliance stands, 
 So nam'd, I guess, by some in days of yore, 
 
 In friendship or in wedlock joining liands : 
 Little did they who call'd it thus foresee 
 The place that name should hold in liistory ! 
 
 " Beyond these points the fight extended not, — 
 Small theatre for such a tragedy ! 
 Its l)readth scarce more, from eastern Piipclot 
 
 To where the groves of Ilougouniont on high 
 Rear in the west their venerable head, 
 And cover witli their shado the countless dead. 
 
WATERLOO. 
 
 39 
 
 0^'-! 
 
 
 
 GiRl'PN WAI.I. Oh caAlEiO HODGODMONT 
 
 " But wouldsl, thou truad this celebrated ground, 
 And trace with understanding eyes a scene 
 Above all other fields of war renown'd, 
 
 From western Ilougoumont thy way begin ; 
 There was our strength on that side, and there first, 
 In all its force, the storm of battle burst. 
 
 " Strike eastward then across towards La Haye, 
 
 The single farm : with dead the fields between 
 Are lin'd, and thou wilt see upon the way 
 
 Long wave-like dips and swells which intervene, 
 Such as would breathe the war-horse, and impede. 
 When that deep soil was wet, his martial speed. 
 
 When thou hast reach'd La Haye, survey it well 
 Here was the heat and centre of the strife ; 
 
 This point must Britain hold whate'er befell. 
 And here both armies were profuse of life : 
 
 Once it was lost, — and then a stander by 
 
 Belike had trembled for the victory. 
 
40 
 
 TllK HHINE BOOK. 
 
 T.i BFtI.^_ AI.II^NCE. 
 
 " La Haye, bear witness ! sacred is it hight, 
 
 And sacred is it truly from that day ; 
 For never braver blood was spent in fight 
 
 Than Britain here hath mingled with the clay. 
 Set where thou wilt thy foot, thou scarce canst tread 
 Here on a spot unhallow'd by the dead. 
 
 " Here was it that the Highlanders withstood 
 The tide of hostile power, receiv'd its weight 
 M'ith resolute strengtli, and stenun'd and turn'd the flood 
 
 Anil fitly here, as in that Grecian strait. 
 The funeral stone might say. Go, traveller, tell 
 Scotland, that in our dutv here we fell. 
 
 " Still eastward from this point thy way pursue. 
 There grows a single hedge along the lane, — 
 No other is there far or near in view : 
 
 I'he raging enemy essay'd in vain 
 'J"o pass that line, — a braver foe witiistood, ' 
 And tliis whole ground was moisten'd with tlui'' lilood. 
 
AVATERLOO. 
 
 41 
 
 VIEW OF LA HATE SMNTS 
 
 " Leading his gallant men as he was wont, 
 The hot assailant's onset to repel, 
 Advancing hat in hand, here in the front 
 
 Of battle and of danger, Picton fell ; 
 Lamented Chief! than whom no braver name 
 His country's annals shall consign to fame. 
 
 " Hence to the high-wall'd house of Pai)elot, 
 
 The battle's boundary on the left, incline; 
 Here thou seest Frischermont not far remote, 
 
 From whence, like ministers of wrath divine, 
 The Prussians issuing on the yielding foe. 
 Consummated their great and total overthrow.'" 
 
 The number of men engaged in the Battle of Waterloo is often a subject of dis- 
 cussion, and the accounts given on the spot are generally incorrect. The zealous 
 patriot sees with a magnifying glass the force opposed to his countrymen, — feeling, 
 if he does not confess, that to exaggerate the power of the enemy is to heighten 
 the glory of a victory, or palliate the disgrace of a defeat. Both sides have 
 played with figures until the question of the comparative forces on the 18th of 
 June seems to many a riddle beyond solution. The truth stands thus : — total 
 strength of the English and their allies in the field during the campaign — In- 
 fantry, 82,062 ; Cavalry, 14,482; Artillery, 8,166; Engineers and waggon train, 
 
42 
 
 THE RIIUCE BOOK. 
 
 ,-. ^ 
 
 1,240 : total, 105,950. This number being engaged in the operations of the war is 
 
 the number stated by the French 
 t^^^ to have been present when Na- 
 poleon was defeated. Not so. 
 The total strength of the English 
 and their allies on the 18th of 
 June, was, — Infantry, 49,608 ; 
 Cavalry, 12,402 ; Ai'tillery, 
 5,645 : Total, 67,655, with 156 
 pieces of artillery. The French 
 troops opposed to tliis force were 
 only a part of the army which 
 Napoleon then had in the cam- 
 paign, and amounted to 71,947 
 men, with 246 pieces of ord- 
 nance. The Infantry numbered 
 48,950; the cavalry 15,765; the 
 artillery 7,232. Thus Napoleon 
 had the best array of cavalry 
 and guns ; Wellington the best 
 body of infantry. About ten 
 
 thousands of these were left to flatten the field of "Waterloo. 
 
 I'eceived 
 
 " into her silent womb 
 
 CUCRCU AT \va;e ;loo 
 
 Our great mother 
 
 Her slaughter'd creatures : horse and man they lay. 
 And friend and foe, within the general tomb. 
 Equal had been their lot ; one fatal day 
 For all, — one labour, — and one place of rest 
 They found within their common parent's breast." 
 
 ::=^?<^^ 
 
INTERCILVrTER FOR THE TRAVELLER. 
 
 
 .--JP 
 
 iJi^ai 
 
 "' i!&~ivj^,"^;lt '["}^--~~-_, \ii','<riCi£liiiF.rj{ 
 
 1 Botanical Garden. 
 
 2 Porte d'Anvers. 
 
 3 Porte d'A lli?e A'erte. 
 
 4 Porte du Kivape. 
 
 5 Hospice des \'ieillards. 
 
 fi Church of Notre Dame Finisterre. 
 7 Hospice du Pacheco. 
 S Porte de Schaerbeck. 
 9 Porte de I^ouvain. 
 
 10 Salle des Concerts. 
 
 1 1 Palais de la Nation. 
 VI Cathedral. 
 
 13 Foundling Hospital. 
 
 14 Hospital. 
 
 15 Chamber of Commerce. 
 
 16 Theatre Royal. 
 
 17 Post Office. 
 
 IS Protestant Church. 
 
 19 Church of St. Jean du B^guinage. 
 
 20 Church of St. Catherine. 
 
 21 Porte de Flandre. 
 '.i2 Porte de Ninove. 
 
 23 Church of St. Clair. 
 
 24 Church N. D. de Bon Sccours. 
 
 25 ("hurch of St. Nicholas. 
 
 26 Hotel de V'ille. 
 
 27 Hospital of St. Jein. 
 
 28 Theatre Kojal ilu Pare. 
 
 29 Palace of the Prince of Orange. 
 50 King's Palace. 
 
 31 Athenaeum. 
 
 32 Church of St. .Taques. 
 
 33 Palais des Arts et de iTndustrie. 
 
 34 Musee des Sciences et Belles Lettres. 
 .35 Church N. D. des V'ictoires. 
 
 36 Palais de. Justice. 
 
 37 Church Saints .lean et Etienne Minimos, 
 
 38 Porte de Namur. 
 
 39 Porte de Hal. 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 Travellers arriving by the railroad will, on 
 quitting the station, find omnibus and other 
 coaches to convey them and their luggage to 
 their destination. Fare \ franc. 
 
 Hotels. 
 
 Hotel de Bellevue, Place Royale. 
 
 Hotel de I'Europe, Place Royale. 
 
 Hotel de Flandre, Place Royale. 
 
 Hotel de la Regence, near the Park, the 
 Palace, the Museum, and other Public Build- 
 inss. 
 
 Hotel des Etrangers et Imperial reunis, rue 
 des Fripiers. 
 
 Hotel de Suede, rue de TEveque. 
 
 Hotel Royal, Rue des Fripiers, 17., situated 
 in centre of town, near the Tlieatre, Exchange, 
 and Post Office. 
 
 Hotel de I'Univers, by Pleron de Mayer, 
 Longue Rue Neuve. The servants here speak 
 English, French, German, and Dutch. 
 
 Barnard's English Hotel, (the only one in 
 Brussels,) 17. Rue de la Putterie. 
 
44 
 
 THK KlUXK BOOK. 
 
 CHIEF THINGS TO BE SKF.N AT UKtSSEI-S. 
 
 The Town Hall daily, from 10 till 5, (gratis). 
 
 The Cathedral and other Catholic Churches 
 daily (gratis), from 5 a. m. till noon. The 
 Foundling is near the Cathedral. 
 
 The Museum (gratis), every Sunday, Monday, 
 and Thursday, from 10 till 3. 
 
 Public Library, for admission apply to the 
 librarian. 
 
 The Due d'Aremberg's Palace daily, l)y 
 applying to the porter, and producing a pass- 
 port. 
 
 Place des Martyrs. 
 
 The Botanical Gardens (gratis), every Tues- 
 day, Thursday, and Saturday, from 10 till 3. 
 
 Tiie two Houses of Parliament daily, from 
 
 10 till 3. 
 
 The King's Palace may be viewed during his 
 Majesty's absence. 
 
 Waterloo. 
 
 Principal Coffef-'Hoiises. — Mille Colonnes; 
 Suisse, Place de la Monnaie ; Trois Suisses, 
 Rue des Princes. 
 
 Public Baths. — Bains Leopold, Rue des 
 Trois Tetes ; bains Sainte Elizabeth, petite 
 Rue de I'Ecuyer; bains Saint Sauveur, Mon- 
 tagne aux Herbes Potageres ; bains Saint 
 Georges, Rue des Alexiens. 
 
 Post Office. — General direction and prin- 
 cipal letter box. Rue de I'Evequc. The latest 
 delivery at a quarter past five in the evening. 
 
 Branch Offices. — At the King's palace ; 
 Montague de la Cour, 44. ; Rue de I'Etuve, 
 20. ; Rue Haute, 155. ; Rue Trenrenberg, 13. ; 
 Rue de Schaerbeck, 117.; Rue de Elandres, 24. ; 
 Rue des Sables, 19. The letters are taken up 
 at those offices -at 5 a.m. and 2 p.m. 
 
 Hacknky Coacuf.s. — Principal stands. Place 
 Royale ; Grande Place ; Place de la Monnaie ; 
 Place du S.iblon ; Place de la ChanccUerie ; 
 Place de St. Gcry ; Place de Bavierc ; Place 
 d'Anvers ; Porte de Laeken ; Place du Samcdi ; 
 Place du Marche aux Grains : outside the gates 
 of Schaerbeck, Namur, and Louvain. 
 
 Price of coach fares. — Hackney coaches, per 
 course, 1 franc 50 cents ; by the hour, first, 
 
 2 francs ."JO cents, each ensuing hour, 1 franc 
 60 cents : vigilantes, per course, 1 franc ; by 
 the hour, first, 2 francs, each ensuing hour, 1 
 franc 50 cents. A subscription of 15 francs 
 for 20 tickets may be taken to the Vigilantes, 
 which tickets are each considered as equivalent 
 to 1 franc, and taken as such in payment either 
 of the hour or the ride. 
 
 Theatiies. — Royal Theatre, Place de la 
 Monnaie ; it is open during the whole thea- 
 trical year, every day except Saturday, for the 
 porformance of comedies, dramas, comic operas, 
 grand operas, and ballets. Price of admittance, 
 I st boxes, balcon and orchestra stalls, 5 francs ; 
 galleries, 2d boxes, parquet and boxes on the 
 ground floor, 3 francs 50 cents ; 3d boxes, 2 
 francs 15 cents; 4th boxes and i)it, 1 franc 
 60 cents. Park Theatre (Th^-atre du Pare), 
 is open on S;iturdays and Sundays for the per- 
 formance of vaudevilles and varied pieces. 
 Price of admittance: 1st boxes and parquet, 
 3 francs 50 cents ; 2d boxes, 3 francs ; 3d 
 boxes, 2 francs 15 cents ; pit, 1 franc 10 cents. 
 Principal Journals of Brussels. Morn- 
 ing papers. Emancipation, Mouiteur Beige ; 
 Independent (.Morning and Evening), Beige, 
 Courrier Beige, Journal de la Belgique, Journal 
 du Commerce Beige. Evening papers, Obser- 
 vatcur. Eclair. English Paper, Brussels Ga- 
 zette. Periodical Magazines: National Review, 
 monthly ; Universal Review, every fortnight. 
 
 Church of England service is performed in 
 the Chapel Royal, Rue de IMusee, every Sunday 
 at 9 A. M. and half-past 2 afternoon, and in the 
 chapel on the Boulevard de lObservatoire on 
 Sunday at a quarter to 1 and half-past 3. 
 
 The Park is open daily from 7 in the morning 
 till 9 at night ; on Sundays a military band 
 j)erf()rms from I till 2 o'clock. 
 
 The Royal Observatory is situated near the 
 Schaerbeck (iate. 
 
 The English Reading Room and Circulating 
 Library, 73. Montagne de la Cour, is open 
 from 8 in the morning till 8 in the evening. 
 
 Other public Establishments, &c. — St. 
 John's Hospital, Boulevard Botanique ; St. 
 Peter's, rue Haute; Prison of the Petits Cannes; 
 
BRUSSKLS. 
 
 45 
 
 the Beguinage, near the Rue de Laeken ; King's 
 Palace at Laeken, the old church and church- 
 yard ; the Abattoir, near the Port de Ninove ; 
 the Allee Verte ; and the three Theatres. 
 
 Private Clubs. — Great Harmonic Society, 
 outside the gate of Laeken ; Loyal Club, Grande 
 Place; Club, Rue Leopold; Reading Club, 
 Hotel de la Paix ; Commercial Club, Rue de 
 I'Eveque ; Philharmonic Society, at the Cafe 
 Suisse, Place de la Monnaie ; Club de I'Ancien 
 Cercle, at the Domino, Place de la Monnaie. 
 Strangers are admitted on being presented by 
 a member. 
 
 Reading Rooms. — For French books, Rue 
 d'Assaut, H. ; for English books and journals, 
 Brown's Library, Montague de la Cour ; Place 
 Royale, 14: for journals only. Rue des Car- 
 rieres, on the first floor. 
 
 Passports. — Travellers are to go to the 
 Minister of the Interior, Rue de la Loi, 4., for 
 everything concerning their passports. The 
 office is opened every day from 10 to 3 o'clock, 
 and on Sundays and holidays from 10 to 12 
 o'clock. The English Legation will be found 
 31. Rue Ducale. 
 
 Fairs. — There are three fairs at Brussels. 
 May 1, coach and horse fair; prizes are given ; 
 May 22, a small fair, which terminates June 2 ; 
 October 18, a great fair, ends November 2. 
 
 Exchange (Bourse). Rue de I'Eveque and 
 Place de la Monnaie. Open every day at 12 
 o'clock. 
 
 Paper Money. — Brussels has two banks, 
 the Banque de Belgique, and the General So- 
 ciety for the Assistance of the National Trade. 
 Both these issue notes, payable at sight, which 
 are everywhere taken in payment. ' Tlie value 
 of each of these is 1000 francs, 500 francs, 100 
 francs, and 50 francs. 
 
 Exchange Office. — Rue des Fripieres, 31. 
 and 45. ; Rue de la Madeleine, 70. ; Montagne 
 de la Cour, 34. 71. and 94. 
 
 Horse- Races. — There are two races every 
 year, which attract a great number of strangers. 
 They take place in the plain of Monplaisir 
 during the Kermesse, and during the Sep- 
 tember festivals. 
 
 Public Festivals (Fetes). — The Fetes of 
 Brussels, which are attended by a great number 
 of persons, are those of the Kermesse, which 
 are celebrated in July, and the anniversary of 
 the revolution of 1830, September 25, 26, and 
 27. 
 
 History. — Brussels stands in the province 
 of S. Brabant, in 50° 50' N. Lat. and 4° 22' E. 
 Long, stands on the Senne, a trifling stream. 
 Brussels is but a small city, measuring about 
 one mile and a quarter in length by one mile 
 in breadth; stands on one side of a hill, which 
 gives it a fine appearance when seen from the 
 west. Its origin is dated as far back as the 
 seventh century. It has been subject at various 
 times to the destructive consequences of war, 
 fire, and the plague. In 1213 taken by the 
 English; in 1326 and in 1405 it was nearly 
 destroyed by fire; in 1314 it was visited by 
 plague, when the inhabitants died so fast that 
 sixty people were sometimes buried in one 
 grave ; in 1488 it was surprised and taken by 
 Philip of Cleves, and in the next year was 
 visited by a contagious disease, which mowed 
 down the inhabitants, hundreds of whom are 
 said to have died in the streets ; in 1578 the 
 plague again came, and 27,000 people perished. 
 This last visitation was hastened by the misery 
 induced in the city through the tyranny of the 
 Duke of Alva, who had previously by his 
 cruelty driven out of Belgium her most skilful 
 artizans to carry their valuable manufactures to 
 other countries. In 1695 Marshal Villeroi 
 bombarded Brussels, destroying more than 
 4000 buildings. The Elector of Bavaria be- 
 sieged it in 1708 ; but this time it escaped by 
 the help of our Duke of Marlborough. In 1746 
 Marshal Saxe laid the city under heavy con- 
 tributions. The last great fight in its neigh- 
 bourhood was that of Waterloo, June, 1815, 
 unless we take into account the contest during 
 the Revolution in 1830, when Belgium was 
 severed from Holland, and became a separate 
 kingdom. 
 
 Town-Hall (Hotel de Ville). — This is a 
 large and majestic edifice, situated in one of 
 the finest squares of Brussels. This building 
 
46 
 
 THE RIIINK BOOK. 
 
 was finished in 1441 ; in the front rises a tower 
 364 feet high ; it is tapering and fluted along 
 its whole length ; it is surmounted by a colossal 
 brass-gilt statue of St. Michael, the patron of 
 the town, turning with the least wind, and 17 
 feet high. It was in the great room of the 
 Town Hall, called the Gothic room, that 
 Charles V. signed, September 7, 1 556, a deed 
 of abdication in favour of his son Philip. The 
 other rooms are remarkable for the tapestry 
 with which they are hung, for their numerous 
 pictures, and the richness of the ceilings. 
 
 Cathedral of St. Gudl'LE. This is a 
 Gothic edifice, built on the slope of a hill 
 formerly called Molenberg. The foundation 
 of this church was laid in 1010. It was first 
 consecrated to St. Michael, and afterwards to 
 St. Gudule, when the body of the latter saint 
 was transferred to it from the chapel of St. 
 Gery, in 1047. Since that period it has always 
 been named the Church of Sts. Michael and 
 Gudule. Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, 
 held the first chapter of the Golden Fleece in 
 this church, in the year 1226, when it was re- 
 built. St. Gudule has no remarkable pictures. 
 Its lions are the fine painted glass of its chapels; 
 the tombs which ornament the two sides of the 
 sanctuary ; the mausoleum of Count Frederick 
 de Merode, killed in 1830 among the Belgian 
 combatants ; the colossal statues, supported 
 against the pillars which sustain the vault, and 
 the pulpit, representing Adam and Eve driven 
 from Paradise, by Verbruggen. 
 
 Church of the Sablon, or Notre Dame 
 des Victoires, built by Duke John I., in 1288, 
 in commemoration of the Battle of Wceringen. 
 The monument of the Princes de la Tour and 
 Taxis, in the Chapel of St. Ursula, is remark- 
 able. There are three i)ictures worth seeing if 
 time permits: the Martyrdom of St. Barbe, by 
 Quellyn ; Christ on the Cross, by De Declerek, 
 and the Last Judgment, by Frans Flore. The 
 French poet, Jean Baptiste Rousseau, is interred 
 in this church. lie died at Genette, near 
 Brussels, March 17. 1741. 
 
 The traveller who stays long cnougli in 
 Brussels may visit its other churches. The 
 
 Church of N. D. de la Chapelle contains, be- 
 sides several statues by the celebrated chisel of 
 Du Quesnoy and of Fayd'Herbe, a picture 
 which is a masterpiece by G. de Crayer, Jesus 
 ' appearing to IVIary INIagdalene. The church 
 of St. Nicholas, Hue au Beurre ; Ste. Catherine, 
 in the street of that name ; N. D. du Finistere, 
 Longue Rue Neuve, (this latter church is 
 named from the inscription over the portico, 
 " Laus tua in fines terras,") ; Saint John the 
 Baptist, have each some good pictures. At 
 Saint Catherine, besides a fine painting by 
 G. de Crayer, placed on the grand altar, there 
 is a Christ at the Tomb, by Otto Venius, 
 Rubens's master. The church of St. Jacques 
 du Caudenberg, Place Royale, is a modern 
 monument, which, during the revolutionary 
 period, had become the Temple of Reason. 
 This church has replaced the abbey of the 
 same name, where the Jesuit Bollandus, and 
 his successors under the name of Bollandists, 
 had devoted their vigils to the immense work 
 known under the name of Acta Sanctorum. 
 
 Palace of the Fine Arts The oldest 
 
 part of this building was formerly the residence 
 of the governors-general. It was commenced 
 in 1.346, and only finished in 1502; Prince 
 Charles of Lorraine beautified it in 1 744. Near 
 the old building rises the Palace of Industry 
 (Palais de ITndustrie), constructed on the site 
 of the old botanical garden. This is used 
 every four years for the exhibition of the pro- 
 ducts of industry. Several rooms are occupied 
 by the conservatory of arts and trades. The 
 old palace contains the Public Library, the 
 Gallery of Paintings, the Gallery of Natural 
 History, and a Cabinet of Natural Philoso- 
 piiy. 
 
 The Library (Bibliotheque) is open every 
 day to the public, from 10 to 2 o'clock, except 
 on Wednesdays and holidays. It contains 
 150,000 printed volumes, and 1 6,0<.10 manu- 
 scripts, some of which are adorned with valu- 
 able miniatures. Tiiis library belongs to the 
 town. Since some years a Royal Library has 
 been founded in one of the wings of the I'alace 
 of Industry, which is open to readers every day 
 
BRUSSELS. 
 
 47 
 
 except Sundays and holidays, from 10 to 3 
 o'clock. 
 
 The Gallery of Paintings (Musee) contains 
 about 350 paintings, many of which are very 
 inferior ; but the collection of Gothic paintings 
 contains several very valuable ones. The aca- 
 demy of Brussels holds its sittings at the Musee. 
 
 The Cabinet of Natural History, a new esta- 
 blishment, which has had but a few years' ex- 
 istence, is already one of the richest in Europe. 
 
 The Cabinet of Natural Philosophy, consist- 
 ing of the instruments belonging to the old 
 University of Louvain, and since enriched with 
 new and numerous acquisitions, is now sufficient 
 for any experiments. 
 
 The Gallery of Paintings, the Galleries, and 
 the Cabinet are open (as before stated) to the 
 public every Sunday, Monday, and Thursday, 
 from 10 to 4 o'clock, and to foreigners every 
 day, by applying to the porter. 
 
 Brussels isembellished by numerous Squares: 
 the principal are, — the Place Royale, in the high- 
 est part of the town ; it is one of the finest in 
 Europe : the Grande Place, on which stands 
 the Town Hall (Hotel de Ville). Wlien 
 Count d'Egmont and Count Horn were exe- 
 cuted here, June 5. 1568, the whole of this 
 square was hung with black. The Place de la 
 Monnaie, which is adorned by the Royal The- 
 atre, and that of the Martyrs, formerly called 
 Place St. Michael. 
 
 The Place des Martyrs must be visited, and 
 its novel mode of paying a compliment to those 
 slain during the revolution will strike the 
 Englishman as being something peculiarly 
 French. The statue of Liberty rises up from 
 the centre of a huge vault into which the visitor 
 descends, to find inscribed upon the marble walls, 
 in letters of gold, the names and places of birth 
 of those who fell in the struggle of September, 
 1830. 
 
 The Boulevards which surround Brussels, 
 and are adorned with rich mansions and hotels, 
 are not among the least embellishments of the 
 town, which has besides that two other pro- 
 menades truly worthy of a capital, the Park, 
 and the Allee Verte. 
 
 The Park* is a large and beautiful garden 
 ornamented with clumps of trees and statues, 
 and is situated opposite to the King's palace, 
 in the midst of fine streets : it is to Brussels 
 what the garden of the Tuileries is to Paris. 
 In the Park, on Sundays, during the fine sea- 
 son, a military band plays, with su])erior exe- 
 cution, pieces of music which attract a great 
 concourse of promenaders. 
 
 The Allee Verte, planted with several rows 
 of trees, runs along the canal of Willebrock to 
 the length of more than a quarter of a league 
 in a straight line. Though a little out of 
 fashion, it is still, in fine weather, numerously 
 attended by persons in carriages, on horseback, 
 and on foot. It is the Champs Elysees of 
 Brussels. 
 
 The Botanical Garden, the entrance to 
 which is in the Rue Royale exterieure, outside 
 the Porte de Schaerbeck, is on the Boulevard 
 Botanique. This recent establishment already 
 rivals every other of the sort by the beauty of 
 the buildings and hot-houses, and the richness 
 of its plantations. In summer the public is 
 admitted into the Gardens on Tuesdays, Thurs- 
 days, and Saturdays, from 10 to 3 o'clock, and 
 into the hot-houses every day on payment of 
 30 centimes for each person. 
 
 " The origin of this establishment was owing 
 to a sarcasm. At a sale of flowers in 1826, a 
 shrub of so great price was produced, that no 
 single amateur was willing or able to become the 
 purchaser ; and a person in the crowd suggested 
 the propriety of obtaining it for the Botanic 
 Gardens of Brussels. The hit told; a subscrip- 
 tion was opened on the spot, and the garden 
 was laid out. An annual sum of 6000 florins 
 is granted by government to its support ; and 
 a like sum by the city. The Royal Society of 
 Horticulture, who are the proprietors, have 
 themselves a capital of 200,000 florins, in 400 
 shares of 500 florins each. In the care and dis- 
 position of the garden a scrupulous attention is 
 
 * hi the Rue Royale, opposite'oiie of the side entrances 
 to the park, is the statue of General Belliard, the French 
 ambassador to Belgium, who died at Brussels, Jan. 28. 
 1832. 
 
48 
 
 THE RUINE BOOK. 
 
 paid to scientific arrangement ; and students 
 have ready access at all times to the examination 
 of its contents. Both the scientific and vulgar 
 names are attached to every plant, and gene- 
 rally that of the country of which it is a native. 
 A circular piece of ground is divided into 
 small parterres, in which the Linna;an classifi- 
 cation is fully exemplified ; and several small 
 ponds are appropriated to the nurture of aqua- 
 tic productions. Tlie conservatory, which is 
 heated by steam, is 400 feet long, with a rotunda 
 in the centre, for the exposition of flowers ; 
 and at each end is an elegant portico, from 
 which there is a good view of the town." — 
 [ TroHope's Belgium since the Revolution. ] 
 
 Brussels has no remarkable fountains ; but 
 that of the Maneken Pis cannot be passed 
 without notice on account of its singularity. 
 It is placed at the corner of the Rue de I'Etuve 
 and Rue du Chene, and consists of a small 
 bronze figure. 
 
 The Mannekin is one of the lions of Brus- 
 sels. It is a small statue adapted to the pur- 
 poses of a fountain. Legacies have been left to 
 Mannekin, and on festival days the little figure 
 is dressed up as a beau of the first water. 
 Charles the Fifth made him presents, Louis 
 the Fourteenth knighted him, and Peter the 
 Great paid him a visit, and gave liim a pen- 
 sion. 
 
 Private Collections. — Tlie inhabitants 
 having in general a taste for painting and for 
 the arts, few tovrns can offer to amateurs such 
 rich private collections, which the possessors 
 are extremely kind in showing to strangers. 
 We mention the principal : 
 
 1. The Gallery of the Duke of Aremberg, 
 consisting nearly all of Flemish pictures, and 
 which is now increased by the addition of the 
 fine collection belonging to the late Prince 
 Augustus of Aremberg. 
 
 2. The Gallery of His Highness the Princede 
 Ligne, consisting of modern paintings. There 
 is an admirable collection of ancient pictures at 
 his mansion of Belocil. 
 
 .S. The collection of M. Makk de Werten- 
 feld, Rue de hi Reine, -10. Faubourg (['Ixelles, 
 
 formed of choice pieces, and to which is joined 
 a fine collection of curiosities. 
 
 4. The Collection belonging to Colonel Bire, 
 Rue Ducale, which consists of Dutch paintings. 
 
 5. The Gallery of M. Van Becelaere, the 
 proprietor of the Cafe des Milles Colonnes, 
 Place de la Monnaie. 
 
 6. M, Robyns, Rue Neuve, has a collec- 
 tion of insects, and especially some of the rarest 
 butterflies in the world. 
 
 The King's Palace is a large building, the 
 exterior of which is only remarkable for its 
 simplicity. The interior is richly decorated. 
 Under the French dominion, this palace, the 
 extent of which was less than it is now, was the 
 Hotel of the Prefecture. Napoleon and the 
 Empress Josephine lodged there in 1807, and 
 Maria Louisa in 181 1. 
 
 Palace of the Prince of Orange. This 
 is the prince's private property, and one of the 
 buildings which strangers usually visit. The 
 valuable pictures, and other rare and precious 
 articles which ornamented it, have been re- 
 moved. 
 
 National Palace (Palais de la Nation), 
 Rue de la Loi. — Maria Theresa had it con- 
 structed for tlie sittings of the old council of 
 Brabant. It is now occupied by the senate, 
 and by the Chamber of Representatives. Its 
 front, which is surmounted by a basso-relievo 
 from the chisel of Godecharles, is not deficient 
 in elegance. Spectators are admitted without 
 a ticket into the public galleries of both cham- 
 bers. 
 
 Charitable Institutions are numerous at 
 Brussels. We shall mention, among the most 
 important, the Great Asylum for Old l^eojile, 
 on the square of the old Beguinage ; the Ge- 
 neral Civil Hospital, near the gate of Hal, for- 
 merly founded for the Crusaders who returned 
 wounded from the Holy Land, and for lepers ; 
 it is now used for the treatment of dangerous 
 diseases ; and the Hospital of St. .John, Rue 
 de I'llopital, which will be transfeired to a 
 magnificent building which is in progress of 
 erection ui)on the Boulevard Botnni<|ue. 
 
 Ciii.KuuATi:i) Men. — Brussels is the country 
 
TIIK EXCURSION TO WATEKLOO. 
 
 49 
 
 of several distinguished characters, among whom 
 we find : — Champagne ( Philippe), a painter, born 
 in 1602, died in 1674. — I.igne ( Charles Joseph 
 Prince de), as illustrious for his birth as for 
 liis chivalric grace, his intrepid courage, the 
 sharpness of his wit, and the gaiety of his tem- 
 per ; born, 1735, died, 1814. — Vesalius, one 
 of the greatest anatomists, born in 1514, died 
 of hunger after a tempest which threw him on 
 the CO ist of Zante, in 1 564. — Vandermeulen 
 (Antoine Francois), tlie celebrated painter of 
 battle pieces, born in 1634. — Qiiesnoy (Fran- 
 cois du) an illustrious sculptor, born at Brus- 
 sels in 1592, died at Leghorn in 1644; his 
 works adorn the greater part of the churches 
 of Belgium. — Camargo (Marie Anne Cupis 
 
 de), a celebrated dancer, born in 1710, died in 
 1770. 
 
 • '^The Manufactures of Brussels are not very 
 extensive : carpets and tapestries are no longer 
 staple commodities. Lace is, however, maim- 
 factured in considerable quantities, and there 
 are several large printing establishments, some of 
 •which, before the passing of the English Copy- 
 right Act, were kept very busy by the publi- 
 cation of pirated editions of new English books. 
 The Population of Brussels is calculated to 
 be upwards of 1 80,000 ; but is liable to fluctua- 
 tion according to the season ; the English resi- 
 dents are very numerous, and occupy most ot 
 the best houses. 
 
 WATKJL'JO'- °- - 
 
 
 
 MAIiiUN UV KOI 
 
 THE EXCUKSION TO WATERLOO. 
 
 A diligence starts for La Have Sainte every 
 morning at 7 o'clock and every afternoon at 5 
 o'clock, from the Couronne d'Espagne, in the 
 Vieille Halle au Ble; at 3 o'clock in the after- 
 noon from the Hotel de la Cloche, in the 
 Marcli<i-aux-Herbes; and at 4 o'clock from the 
 Cour de France, in the Rue des Pierres, at the 
 back of the Town Hall. In starting by the first 
 you may return in time for the Theatre ; price 
 of each person going one franc and a half, and 
 
 returning the same; a party of four persons 
 pay something less in proportion. 
 
 A horse and gig for 10 francs, or a saddle 
 horse for 8 francs, may be hired of Mr. Copper, 
 an Englishman ; adjoining the Prince of 
 Orange's Palace. 
 
 A carriage may be had from the stand for 20 
 francs, including every expense of turnpikes, 
 coachman, &c., holding six persons; but you 
 must agree to he taken tn La Belle Alliance, the 
 farthest point, or the driiu-r will stop at Mmit 
 
50 
 
 THE lUIlNE BOOK. 
 
 St. Jean, and ylve you a very long walk to nrrive 
 at the field. 
 
 The original features of the ground, where 
 the centre of the English line had its position, 
 at the last desperate effort by the enemy, are 
 entirely obliterated ; and the ridge which formed 
 a part of Mont St. Jean is now levelled down 
 with the rest of the plain. This was done for 
 the purpose of obtaining a sufficient quantity of 
 earth to form the great mound, on which the 
 colossal bronze lion, which may serve either as 
 the British or Bclgic Lion, is supported, the 
 pedestal of which bears the simple inscription, 
 "June 18. 1815." The mound and the lion 
 have equally been the subjects of ill-natured 
 censure ; but the one containing the bones of 
 friends and foes, who fell in that dreadful day, 
 and the other composed of cannon taken from 
 the enemy, would appear to be strictly appro- 
 priate, " as being at once a memorial, a trophy, 
 and a tomb." The mound is placed on the 
 spot where the Prince of Orange received his 
 wound. As a guide employ Serjeant Major 
 Cotton, who lives on the field. He (as we have 
 before said) was at the battle. 
 
 The village of Waterloo is in the rear of the 
 field, and close to the forest of Soignies. The 
 trees are principally of beech, and some of them 
 very fine ; but the wood is fit for nothing but 
 fuel, and is used solely for that purpose. 
 
 If you intend to return to dinner, take some 
 refreshments with you, as at La Belle Alliance 
 it is difficult to procure them good, notwith- 
 standing the immense number of English who 
 have visited this place, and inserted their names 
 in a book that they present. 
 
 At Mont St. Jean the people are begin- 
 ning to understand the English character ; a 
 table-d'hote is prepared, and wine provided for 
 sale. 
 
 On returning, stop at the village of Waterloo, 
 and see the monuments in the Church, and the 
 tomb of the Marquis of Anglesea's leg; return- 
 ing through the sombre forest of Soignies, part 
 of which is the property of His Grace the Duke 
 of Wellington, conferred on him by the King of 
 Holland, in remuneration of his services on the 
 occasion which has this day particularly en- 
 grossed our attention — \_A Week at Brussels.'] 
 
VAI.LEV OF TUB MEn.SE 
 
 " What lovelier home could gentle fancy choose ? 
 
 Is this the stream, whose cities, heights, and plain^. 
 
 War's favourite playground, are with crimson stains 
 
 Familiar, as the morn with pearly dews ? 
 
 The morn, that now, along the silver Meuse, 
 
 Spreading her peaceful ensigns, calls the swains 
 
 To tend their silent boats and ringing wains. 
 
 Or strip the bough whose mellow fruit bestrews 
 
 The ripening corn beneath it. As mine eyes 
 
 Turn from the fortified and threatening hill, 
 
 How sweet the prospect of yon watery glade. 
 
 With its grey locks clustering in pensive shade. 
 
 That, shap'd like old monastic turrets, rise 
 
 From the smooth meadow'-ground, serene and still." — WoRDSwonrii. 
 
 Vt~f- 
 
 W 
 
 BRUSSELS TO THE RHINE, BY LIEGE AND AIX LA CIlAPELLE. 
 
 HEN the Traveller leaves Brussels to make his way on- 
 wards to the Rhine, lie finds himself retracing as far as 
 Malines his previous Railway Route, and not until he has 
 passed the Station at Mechlin does he find himself in an 
 entirely new scene. On quitting that station, the railway describes 
 a curve, and crosses the paved road leading to Louvaine, The first 
 village on the left hand is that of Meusen, on the Dyle, with a church 
 founded by St. Lambert. Soon afterwards on the same side the vil- 
 lage of Hever is seen, and in the distance the steeple of Rymenam, a 
 
 n J 
 
OZ THi: HIIINK HOOK. 
 
 commune of the pi'ovince of Antwerp. A small stream is crossed, which falls 
 into the Dyle, and waters the commune of Doort-lMeerbeck on the right, the 
 church of which, close to the railway, contains the tombs of the lords of Launoy 
 and Santa Cruz. After a short stoppage at Haegt, an uninteresting place, the 
 train speedily arrives at Wespelaer, a famous i)lace of summer recreation for 
 the Belgians, who throng its fine park, and laud as inimitable its jumble of 
 statues, Chinese bridges, Grecian temples and monastic grottoes, where busts 
 of Voltaire and Rousseau hob-nob with Homer and the Prince of Orange. 
 Next, on the right, is the pointed spire of the rural village of Thildonck, and 
 in the distance, on the left, the baronial tower of Rotzelaer, once the strong- 
 hold of the rulers of this part of Brabant. As we near Louvaine the rail runs 
 along the side of the Canal, with its triple row of poplars, whilst rising above 
 the trees on the right is seen the steeple of St. Gertrude, notched like a double- 
 edged saw. The train stops at Louvaine, outside the gate of Diest, — a word 
 that calls to mind the beer the Belgian thinks so good and the Englishman 
 declares to be execrable. 
 
 Louvaine possesses two admirable old buildings in its Toaa'^n Hall and Col- 
 legiate Church, both of which secm*e the admiration of all who look upon 
 them. The lightness of the turrets, and the rich and graceful ornaments of the 
 Hotel de Ville, give it a claim to be the most beautiful Gothic edifice in the 
 north of Europe ; placing it in the scale of beauty for above many buildings of 
 much larger dimensions. The collegiate Church of St. Peter* is also a noble 
 
 * Tliis is the oldest paiisli cluirch in Louvaine ; it would even seem that it had been built on 
 the ruins of a temple of Mars, if we are to believe the Latin verse inscriheil over its portico: — 
 
 Mars Petro cessit, pro clavibus hasta recessit. 
 
 In 1130, the fire which destroyed the town did not spare this church, which was afterwards 
 rebuilt more magnificently. According to the plan kept at the Town-Hall, there were three 
 gigantic towers over the portico ; the middle was 536 feet high without counting height of tlie 
 cross, and each of the side towers was 430 feet high. Jan. 31, 1606, a terrible whirlwind threw 
 down the great tower, which, drawing along with it the two others, crushed all the houses in the 
 neighbourliood ; the force of tlie wind was so great, that the cross was found in the Dyle at some 
 distance. 
 
 The great aisle is as astonislilng by the boldness as by the elegance of its architecture ; a lobby 
 which is wonderfully carved, enriched with gilding, and surmounted by an immense crucifix 
 which rises up to the roof, closes in the choir. In the second chipel on the riglit, on entering by 
 the great one, is a Christ, as black as ebony, and clotheil in ;i long red robe. According to a 
 pious legend, three thieves had entered the church anil were preparing to strip the altar, when 
 tills figure of Christ, loosening its arm from the cross, seized the brigands by the hair, and kept 
 them in that position until day. 
 
 There are at Louvaine a few establishments worlliy of a largo town ; a botanical garden, ai.d 
 cabinet of natural history and philosojjhy. 
 
LOUVAINE. 0,3 
 
 Structure, and has of course good store of carvings, tombs, pictures, and legends. 
 The most noticeable of the latter is always told when the visitor looks uj)on the 
 chapel of Magriefge — the holy spot dedicated to Margaret of Louvaine, the 
 patron saint of servant-girls : — 
 
 " Being servant at an inn where pilgrims were received, her master and 
 his Avife having resolved to leave their business and embrace the monastic 
 state, she had also formed the same project ; the three were to enter the 
 monastery next day; some pilgrims came to beg for hospitality for that night 
 only : they were received, and Margaret went to fetch some wine. She had 
 scarcely stepped out, when the pilgrims (who were thieves) murdered the inn- 
 keeper and his wife. Margaret at her return underwent the same fate after a 
 long struggle, and her body was thrown into the Dyle. This was September 2. 
 122.5. The young Avoman's body, instead of following the current, ascended the 
 river up to the middle of the town, surrounded by a golden glory, and, it is said, 
 uttering harmonious sounds. Henry the First, Duke of Lorraine, who Avas at his 
 castle, was a witness of this miracle. The report of it was immediately spread : 
 the chapter of St. Peter, the duke and duchess, followed by their court and the 
 magistrates, went in procession to fetch the remains of the saint and carried 
 them to the church, Avhere, after having embalmed and placed them in a coffin 
 closed by a grating, tliey were placed behind the choir, a chapel which then 
 opened into the street." 
 
 After passing Louvaine the railroad begins to lose the " even tenour of its 
 way," and as we near the Meuse the surface of the country becomes more and 
 more irregular: tunnels, cuttings, and viaducts are now for the first time met 
 with ; but what the country loses in level, it gains in beauty. 
 
 Steam is bearing us towards the valley that called forth Wordsworth's 
 sonnet. The train whirls along by the old Abbey of Pare, standing on the right, 
 where a few monks still vegetate ; by Corbeck-Loo, Luvenjoul, the square tower 
 of which is visible from the carriages, and Bautersem. At Vertryck the engine 
 stops for a moment ; then off again by Roosbeck, a small commune on the left, 
 and then through the tunnel of Comtich (which, say the Belgians, " the train 
 enters as a sword into a scabbard,") to Tirlemont*, wdiere the steam steeds are 
 watered and get their black feed of coke. 
 
 In one of the rooms of the Town-Hall there are about a hundred pictures, the greater part by 
 the first masters of the Flemish school, as Quentyn Matsys, Coxie, de Crayer, E. Quellyn, Otto 
 Venius, Vandyke, and Jordaens. 
 
 There are at Louvaine woollen, lace and oil factories ; but its principal article of trade is the 
 beer made there, of which it annually sends out more than 200,000 barrels. 
 
 * Tirlemont possesses a building which is of importance to the history of the first period of 
 Christian architecture, in the chinch of Saint Germain, built upon the summit of an eminence 
 
54 
 
 THK KI11M-: I'.OOK. 
 
 
 Going still towards Liege, the country becomes more and more uneven, and 
 contains traces of the passage of the Romans, in shape of remnants of massive 
 tombs built by them. After the small villages of Haekendover on the left, and 
 AVulverson on the riglit, the line enters the province of Liege, and crosses the 
 battle-plain of Neervinden, where the Marshal of Luxembourg beat the English 
 allies in 1693, and General Dumouriez was defeated by the Austrians in 1793. 
 The last victory released Belgium for the time from the French yoke. The halt 
 
 is at Landen, the town of 
 the founder of the fomily 
 of Charlemagne. The 
 journey from this place 
 to Liege occupies nearly 
 another hour, and bears 
 the Traveller through a 
 portion of the province of 
 Limburg, and by Rosoux 
 Corswaren, Berloz, Wa- 
 remme, — where there is 
 a church founded by the 
 Templar Gauthier, — 
 Longchamp, marked by 
 a handsome mansion, and 
 Fexhe - le - haute-clocher. 
 These places are passed 
 in the order in which they 
 are here named. 
 
 Liege is a small Bir- 
 mingham placed in a 
 beautiful valley. Tall 
 chinmeys, smoke, noise, 
 <lirt, and money, are 
 mingled in the centre of 
 one of the loveliest cor- 
 ners of Northern Europe. 
 The Meuse winds its way 
 
 wliich overlooks the towi. The tower is Roman, and must be ineiitionecl as a niodol of tliat 
 style. Its date is probably the ninth century. 
 
 Tliere are stocking, flannel, and woollen stuff manufactories in tlie town ; soap boilers, and 
 sugar refiners: there are also breweries wliich do extensive business. Its trade in corn and wool 
 is likewise considerable. 
 
LIEGE. 55 
 
 between green banks and frnitful hills, as freshly and placidly as if no such 
 serviceable abominations as factories were known ; wliilst the busy hum of com- 
 merce, and the laborious and skilful occupations of the artizan, are not less active 
 or less useful for having such a scene all round about to solace and refresh the 
 toil-worn. The Liegois of our day, if less turbulent, are not less spirited or 
 industrious than their forefathers, who figure so strikingly in Walter Scott's 
 " Quentyn Durwai'd ; " but the Traveller who looks about the town for the 
 localities described by the novelist will be disappointed in his search. He will 
 find the people of the romance, but not the places. 
 
 The streets, chimneys, and, indeed, the faces of the population, tell the secret 
 whence Liege derives her riches. Time was when the place boasted but a single 
 forge ; and though bucklers were heaped beside the anvil, and swords and spears 
 lay waiting for repair, the blacksmith leant idly against his door-post, gazing 
 idly up the hill-side. Gradually he was aware of a figure, which seemed to have 
 grown into shape from a furze bush, or to have risen from behind a stone ; and as 
 it descended the slope he eyed curiously the grimy face, long beard, and squat 
 form of what he was half unwilling to recognise as a human being. Hobbling 
 awkwardly, and shrugging his shoulders as though cold, the man came in time 
 to the smithy door. 
 
 "What! Jacques Perron — idle when work is to be done? Idle smith ! idle 
 smith ! The horse lacks the bit, and the rider the spur. 
 
 ' 111 fares the hide when the buckler waits mending, 
 111 fares the plough whilst the coulter lacks tending. ' 
 
 Idle smith, idle smith ! " 
 
 " Idle enough," quoth Jacques : " I'm as idle as you are ugly ; but I can't get 
 charcoal any more than you can get beauty, so I must stand still, and you be 
 content with your face, though I'd fain earn a loaf and a cup full enough for 
 both of us this winter morning." 
 
 Though the strange man must have known he was horribly ugly, — that is if 
 he ever went to drink of the clear bright waters of the lovely Meuse, which 
 reflected in those days every lily-bell and every grass-blade which grew upon its 
 banks, and gave a faithful portraiture in its cool waters of every creature that 
 leant over them, — though he was certainly the most frightful creature that had 
 ever met the blacksmith's sight, — it was evident enough he did not like being 
 called Ugly-face. But when the honest good-natured smith spoke of earning a 
 full draught for his new acquaintance as well as himself, he smacked his ugly 
 lips, and twisted out a sort of smile which made him still more hideous. 
 
 "Ah, ah!" said he, "wine's good in winter weather, wine's good in winter 
 weather. Listen, listen, Jacques Perron ! listen ! listen ! Go you up the hill- 
 
56 
 
 THE i:HIXi: I500K. 
 
 side, — yonder, yonder I" and he pointed with a yelh)\v finger, which seemed to 
 stretch out hjnger and longer as the smith strained hi.s eyes up the sh)pe, until the 
 digit looked (piite as long as the tallest chimney that now smokes over Liege. 
 " Listen, listen !" and he sang in a voice like the breath of a huge bellows — 
 
 " Wine's <T<)()<1 in winter weather ; 
 I'p the hill-side near the heather 
 Go and gather the black earth. 
 It shall give your (ire birth ; 
 
 111 fares the hide when the buckler wants mending, 
 Til fares the plough when the coulter wants tending. 
 Go! Go!" 
 
 " Mind my cup of wine — mind my cup of wine!" As lie ended this rude 
 chaunt Jacques saw the long finger run back into the shrivelled hand, as a 
 telescope slips back into its case, and then the hand was wrapped up in the dingy 
 garment, and with a dreadful shiver, and a chattering of teeth as loud as the 
 noise of the anvils now heard on the same spot, the ugly man seemed to waft 
 away round the corner of the building like a thick gust of smoke from a newly 
 fed furnace. 
 
 " Mind my cup of wine — mind my cup of wine!" rang again in the ears of the 
 startled Jacques, and after running several times round his house in vain pursuit 
 of the voice, he sat down on the cold anvil to scratch his head and think. 
 It was quite certain he had work to do, and it was as certain as half a score 
 searches could make it, that he had not a single coin in his pouch to buy char- 
 coal to do it w^ith. It was clear to him that the old man was a very sti-ange 
 creature — he was more than half afraid to think who he miglit be — when in the 
 midst of his cogitation he heai'd his three children calling out for their morning 
 meal. Not a loaf had Jacques in store, and twisting his hide apron round his 
 loins, he muttered, " Demon or no demon, I'll go," and strode out of the smithy 
 and up the hill-side, as fast as though he feared that if he went slowly his courage 
 would not carry him as far up as the heather bush which the long yellow finger 
 had pointed out. 
 
 When the young wife of Jacques came to look for her husband, she saw him 
 returning with an apron full of black morsels of shining stone ; she smiled at him ; 
 but when he threw them on the furnace and went to get a brand to set them 
 a-light, she looked solemn enough, for she thought he had left his wits on the 
 hill-top. Great was her marvel when she saw the stone hum ! But her joy was 
 greater than her surprise when she heard her husband's hammer ring merrily, 
 and found the wage of the smith all spared for home use, instead of being set 
 aside for the charcoal-burner. That night Jacques had two full wine-cups, and 
 setting them on the anvil, hail scared v said to himself — " T woiidci- wIkMIut IIk'i.i. 
 
A LEGEND OF LIEGE. 57 
 
 come!" when in walked the Old Man, and nodding familiarly seated himself on 
 the head of the big hammer. Jacques was a bold and grateful, as well as a good- 
 natured fellow, and in a few minutes he and his visitor were on excellent terms. 
 No more shivering or chattering of teeth was seen or heard in the smithy that 
 nio-ht. The black stones burned away merrily on the hearth, and the bright 
 flames shone on the honest face of the smith, as he hob-nobbed with his com- 
 panion, and looked as though he really thought the stranger as handsome as he 
 certainly had been useful. He sang his best songs, and told his best stories, and 
 when the wine had melted his soul, he told his new friend how dearly he loved 
 his wife, and what charming dear creatures his children were. " Demon, or no 
 demon," he swore the stranger was a good fellow, and though the visitor spoke 
 but little, he seemed to enjoy his company very much. He laughed at the jokes, 
 smiled at the songs, and once rather startled Jacques by letting out again his long 
 telescope arm to pat him on his shoulder, when, with a mouth full of praises of his 
 wife, a tear sparkled in his eye as he told over again how dearly he loved his 
 little ones. 
 
 Day broke before the wine was exhausted or their hearts flagged, and when 
 the voice of the early cock woke the swan that tended her callow brood amongst 
 the sedges of the Meuse, the Old Man departed. Jacques never saw him again 
 although he often looked in all directions when he went to the hill for a supply of 
 fuel ; but from that day Liege grew up in industry, riches, and power. Jacques 
 HAD FOUND COAL, and thus became the benefactor of his native country, and the 
 hero of the favourite Legend of the Liegois. 
 
 For ages after the time of the first man who used coal in Liege, the history of 
 the city was one long chronicle of exertion, struggle, oppi-ession, cruelty, and 
 strife. The people grew wealthy by their skill and industry, and as wealth gives 
 leisure and independent feelings, the people groaned and grumbled under the 
 yoke of their old feudal masters. When the town grew into importance it was 
 assigned to a priestly proprietor — a bishop in name, a noble by birth, and an abso- 
 lute ruler in reality, whose only care was, to make the people as valuable to himself 
 as possible. These Prince-Bishops were often boys of eighteen or twenty,who only 
 assumed the titles of the church for what those titles gave them. Every worldly 
 desire was gratified, and in many cases every manner of profligacy was openly 
 indulged by these dignitaries. The artizans during successive generations bought 
 various privileges of their bishops, as the burgesses of other cities had obtained 
 them of their feudal lords, until at length the wealth and intelligence of the 
 people forced upon the oligarchy a recognition of their power, if it failed to 
 obtain any willing concession for their benefit. Then came the struggles Avhich 
 all European countries can parallel, but which showed themselves more distinctly 
 in Fhmders than any where else. The rising many fought against the elevated 
 
58 
 
 THE RHINE COOK. 
 
 and privileged few, and fire, bloodslied, and cruelties of all kinds, and on both 
 sides, were the result. Then too came forth the burgher heroes of Liege, who, 
 like their confreres of Ghent and Bruges, displayed in many noble instances- 
 the true martyr-spirit of the patriot. But enough of this — " 'Tis an old tale, 
 and often told." 
 
 The present Cathedrae of St. Paul of Liege is but the substitute for a much 
 
 more magnificent structure 
 dedicated to St. Lambert, 
 and destroyed during the 
 revolutionary disorders of 
 1 793. St. Paul is remark- 
 able for its size, but the 
 church of St. James is the 
 architectural glory of the 
 place, and a gem it is. 
 Dating its origin as far 
 back as 1014, it has enjoyed 
 various fortunes, and wit- 
 nessed many changes. Ori- 
 ginally a convent, it sub- 
 sequently became an abbey, 
 and narrowly escaped the 
 blind destructive fury of 
 the revolutionary mob that 
 destroyed the Cathedral. 
 The palaces of the Prince- 
 Bishops can only rival it 
 in interest. These two 
 buildings will amuse the 
 Traveller by their ap- 
 pearance and associations, 
 and give him food for 
 thought in tlie changes 
 which have come over them. 
 The sunuucr palace of Se- 
 raing has been converted 
 into a huge factory by the 
 enterprise of an English 
 engineer, INIr. Cockerell : 
 llie sanctitv of the otlur 
 
SPA. 59 
 
 abode of the old rulers of Liege has been invaded by the chafFerings of the huckster, 
 the quibbles of the law, and the groans and forced labour of the criminal. 
 
 The Englishman who has leisure may make a pilgrimage beyond the walls of 
 the town to the Convent of Saint William, where he will discover the tomb of Sir 
 John Mandeville, the earliest of our travellers, and the first English prose 
 writer. Born at St. Alban's, in 1300, and educated in medicine, he started upon 
 his travels about the time Avhen Chaucer was in leading strings, and returned to 
 England to issue his first book in prose, when the father of English poetry was 
 busily tagging his earliest rhymes. Sir John travelled altogether for thirty-four 
 years, chiefiy in the East ; and his credulity has given rise to many a laugh at 
 his expense. Side by side with truthful descriptions of what he himself saw, we 
 find him recounting with equal gravity stories of what he heard, and asking for 
 belief in fiery dragons, flying horses, and other such absurdities. Sir John, 
 however, was learned, brave, enterprising, with a thirst of travel which no 
 dangers or difficulties could overcome ; and, in all these respects, the worthy 
 father of the long list of adventurers whom England has since sent forth — 
 travelling and to ti'avel. 
 
 The ENVIRONS of Liege are eminently picturesque and interesting. The forest 
 of the Ardennes, with its people speaking their peculiar language neither French 
 nor Flemish ; the windings of the Meuse ; the many feudal remains, and the 
 numerous romantic legends of the place, would aiford amusement for a fortnight's 
 ramble. Spa and Chaudfontaine are two popular points of attraction, and aflbrd, 
 in addition to the charms of fine scenery, the ordinary excitement of continental 
 watering-places. The chalybeate waters, and the gaming tables of Spa, have an 
 European celebrity. Peter the Great spent six weeks there, as an inscription at 
 the Pouhon spring bears testimony. In 1654,' Charles the Second of England 
 drank its waters and patronised its gaming tables, whilst waiting for the death of 
 Cromwell. Kings and princes without number have since then visited its 
 pleasant promenades, and hunted in the neighbouring forest, the last and most 
 celebrated of them being Louis Philippe, King of the French, who, when Duke of 
 Orleans, with his children, Mademoiselle Adelaide and her younger brother, 
 formed a walk in the wood, near the Sauveniere, which is still pointed out with 
 pride to all visitors. It will be remembered that Madame de Genlis celebrated the 
 abode of these princes in the forest of the Ardennes, in her drama entitled The 
 Blind Man of Spa. 
 
 The Springs are of course the avowed reasons for a resort to Spa ; but the 
 beauty of its situation, and the charms of the surrounding scenery, are, in reality, 
 more powerful attractions than its waters. These, however, are valuable. 
 
 " The Pouhon, which was also formerly written the Potcxhon, is the most 
 celebrated and most frequented of all the springs, and its waters are the most 
 
 1 2 
 
60 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 active. It is this water which is sent all over Europe, in bottles, under the name 
 of Spa loater. It keeps many years without losing its qualities. This fountain 
 is in the middle of the town, and 340 metres above the level of the sea. The 
 quadrangular well containing the spring is under a portico of the Tuscan order, 
 built in 1820, and bearing the inscription : To the Memory of Peter the Great. 
 Its general temperature is 8 degrees ; its flavour, acidulated, sharp, and chalybeate. 
 
 " The Geronstere scarcely yields to the Pouhon in celebrity. It is situated on 
 the South, and 160 metres above the level of the Pouhon, three quarters of a 
 league from Spa. An excellent road, bordered with shady trees, leads to it. 
 The fountain is in the middle of a wood, surrounded by pleasant walks, and 
 almost in the centre of a sort of English pleasure ground. It is a charming spot ; 
 the water gushes forth from a circular well cut in the rock and covered by a small 
 marble dome. The water of the Geronstere is chalybeate and less acidulated 
 and sharp than that of the other springs. Its temperature is 7° 55". 
 
 " The Sauveniere and the Groosbeck are about the same height as the Geron- 
 stere, and are only at the distance of three quarters of a league. A double row 
 of trees overshadows the road leading from Spa to the Sauveniere, which com- 
 municates with the Geronstere by a road from which there are several pretty 
 views. The Sauveniere was formerly so much frequented by churchmen, that 
 even now it is called the ecclesiastical fountain. A mass used to be said close 
 by in a chapel called Salamanque. 
 
 " The Sauveniere and the Groosbeck are in the midst of a wood containing the 
 most delightful walks. The walk made by the hands of Louis Philippe, in 
 memory of liis Avife's restoration to health, is here. 
 
 " Near the spring of the Sauveniere there is a hole in the shape of a foot : it is 
 called the foot of St. Remade. Some wonderful virtues are attributed to this 
 sacred vestige, if one takes care to place one's right foot into it on drinking the 
 water of the spring. The water is acidulated and sharp : its flavour is more 
 agreeable, and it contains less iron than that of the Pouhon. Their temperature 
 is 7° 77". 
 
 " The Tonneletis, situated half a league from Spa to the N.E. of the Sauveniere 
 and 70 metres above the Pouhon. The water of the Tonnelet is remarkable for 
 tlie quantity of carbonic acid it contains. This spring takes its name from a cask 
 which was originally driven into the earth, and from the bottom of which the 
 water rose. 
 
 " The Place Royale, surrounded with trees and situated near the hill of Annette 
 and Lubin*, is the place of meeting of the most fashionable company. This place 
 
 * Those who have read Marmonters Moral Talus will perhaps remember that of Annette and 
 Lubin. They were two poor lovers of Spa; an Englishman built them a hut to shelter them until 
 better times ; its remains were still to be seen in 1779. A Frenchman took the couple to Paris ; 
 
THE ARDEMNES. 61 
 
 is near the walk called that of the Seven Hours (des sept Heures), the ancient 
 trees of which entwine their leafy branches and form delightful arbours." 
 
 A ramble in the Ardennes calls up in the mind of the Englishman the scenes 
 in Shakspeare's play, where the soliloquizing Jacques talks poetry in the same 
 forest, and as the traveller looks around him he finds how truly the poet's descrip- 
 tion still applies to the place, 
 
 Under the oak whose antique root peeps out 
 Upon the brook that brawls along this wood. 
 
 Has not the very spot been painted again and again by Snyder s ? The 
 deerstealer of Stratford knew what a forest was, and though he never set foot out 
 of England, he caught with a poet's eye the features of a woodland solitude, and 
 with a poet's power told so truly what they were, that his lines apply to all such 
 scenes in all countries, and will do so through all time. 
 
 But this neighbourhood has other attractions beyond the forest glades, the 
 ruins, the legends, and the springs. There is a cascade at Coo, a grotto at 
 Remouchamps, and a large and curious cave at Tilf.* 
 
 they were introduced into society, taken to the theatres and public walks, and saw the history of 
 their simple love played upon the stage of the Comic Opera. 
 
 * The Cascade of Coo is situated three leagues to the south of Spa. The road which leads to 
 it passes by the Geronstere, the villages of Ru and Roanne, and it rises at a height of more than 
 700 metres above the level of the sea. The way to the fall is by a narrow path winding round the 
 foot of steep rocks which remind us of those of Switzerland. The traveller soon reaches one of the 
 finest spots which the eye can imagine. The Ambleve pours its foaming waters from a considerable 
 height ; their whiteness forming a dazzling contrast with the dark green rocks upon which they 
 fall. A wooden bridge of great boldness of execution is thrown across the torrent, and those who 
 dare to place themselves upon it enjoy one of the most extensive and varied prospects. 
 
 The Grotto of Remouchamps is situated three leagues S. W. of Spa, in a wild spot, and in a 
 narrow valley watered by the Ambleve. The entrance to the grotto is closed by a grating. The 
 keeper furnishes the visitor with clothes and lights, and enters with him into its depths. A 
 splendid sight now strikes the eye ; the size of the caves, the height of the vaults, the singular 
 shape of the petrifactions, the greater part of which have been named from the animals or objects 
 which they resemble ; the shining substance which covers them on ev€ry side, and the astonishing 
 whiteness of the stalactites, surprise and delight the spectator. 
 
 The cave called that of the Ruins, which is the largest of all, is formed by immense rocks laid 
 over each other ; one of the vaults is 350 feet long. 
 
 A new grotto was discovered under the first, in 1834, by an English traveller. It is said to be 
 extremely curious, but it is difficult of access, for it can only be entered by means of a rope to 
 wliich the traveller must be fastened. 
 
 The grotto of Remouchamps is not the only one in the country of Liege which deserves to be 
 seen ; that of Tilf is not less worthy tlie curiosity of the lovers of natural history. 
 
 Tilf, a small commune of 1000 inhabitants, two leagues from Liege, on the right bank of the 
 Ourte, was known and frequented since a long time on account of its picturesque situation and the 
 
62 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 Walter Scott's name is identified with the Ardennes, not only by his inid Boar, 
 painted so fearfully in Qnentyn Durward, but through a ballad telling one of the 
 many legends of the neighbourhood. 
 
 ^Ijc ^otucrs of Jprandjimont. 
 
 The Towers of Franchimont, 
 Which, like an eagle's nest in air, 
 Hang o'er the stream and hamlet fair. 
 Deep in their vaults, the peasants say, 
 A mighty treasure buried lay, 
 Amass'd through rapine and through wrong 
 By the last lord of Franchimont. 
 The iron chest is bolted hard, 
 A huntsman sits, its constant guard ; 
 Around his neck his horn is hung, 
 His anger in his belt is slung ; 
 Before his feet his bloodhounds lie, 
 An' 'twere not for his gloomy eye, 
 "Whose withering glance no heart can brook, 
 As true a huntsman doth he look, 
 As bugle e'er in brake did sound, 
 Or ever hallooed to a hound. 
 
 To chase the fiend and win the prize. 
 In that same dungeon ever tries 
 An aged necromantic priest ; 
 It is an hundred years at least 
 Since 'twixt them first the strife begun, 
 And neither yet has lost or won. 
 And oft the conjurer's words will make 
 The stubborn demon groan and quake ; 
 And oft the bands of iron break, 
 
 delightful views by which it is surrounded, when, in 1837, the discovery of a large grotto, by some 
 workmen who had sprung a mine, increased the attraction of this charming village. 
 
 Tliere are boats ft)r those travellers who wish to make excursions above the village up the river. 
 
 The Grotto is half the way up the hank, and its access is rather difficidt. Before entering it 
 the traveller must jiut on an especial costume whidi is to he had on the spot. Some toiu ists tliink 
 this cave larger and more curious than that of Kemouchamps ; it will be suflicient to mention that 
 it is more than 600 metres in extent, that it takes three or four hours to go over it, by passages 
 which 'nust be crawled through, and among frightful ijrecijjices. 
 
 On the rock, over the grotto, rises the castle of Brialmont, and, farther im, a hill celebrated in 
 the country by a battle between the Austrians and the French, and in which the latter overthrow 
 their opponents at the point of the bayonet. 
 
FRANCHIMOXT. 63 
 
 Or bursts one lock, tliat still amain 
 Fast as 'tis open'd shuts again. 
 Tims magic strife within the tomb 
 May last until the day of doom, 
 Unless th' adept shall learn to tell 
 The very word tliat clench'd the spell, 
 When Franch'niont lock'd the treasure cell. 
 An hundred years are past and gone. 
 And scarce three letters has he won. 
 
 Franchimont is not very far from Spa*, and is enshrined in history as the place 
 from whence issued six hundred men, who, animated by tlie same pure patriotism 
 
 * Spa is a small town of the province of Liege, and of the district of Verviers, four leagues from 
 the latter town and nine leagues from Liege, situated in a fine valley surrounded by green hills, 
 and watered by the Wayai, which crosses it. Population 3500 inhabitants. Post Office and 
 post-horses. The origin of Spa is unknown, but it is thought that the present town was founded 
 in 1 327, by a farrier, who had bought some lands of Adolphe de la Mark, bishop of Liege. 
 
 Augustine of Venice, physician to Henry VII., was the first foreigner who came here to take 
 the waters. But it was only about the end of the 16ih century that they considerably increased 
 in renown. However, they still attracted but few persons ; and Montaigne says in his quaint 
 manner, " Those of Liege wonder at the waters of Lucca, and the Tuscans do the same of those of 
 Spa." However, a few illustrious foreigners came here at last; the Duke de Nevers in 1575, 
 Margaret, the first wife of Henry IV., king of France, in 1577, and the celebrated Alexander 
 Farnese in 1590. At the commencement of the 17th century the waters of Spa were already sent 
 into France, England, and Italy. But the brilliant period of the history of Spa commenced in 
 the 18th century. Peter the Great came here in 1717 ; he drank some of the water of Geronstere 
 and of the Pouhon, and found such benefit from it that, on returning into his dominions, he 
 expressed his gratitude in the Latin inscription engraved on a tablet of marble, which may still be 
 seen at the entrance of the Pouhon. However, the fame of Spa was beginning to spread, and its 
 inhabitants did nothing towards rendering its abode agreeable to strangers; it was only in 1750 
 that hotels and assembly-rooms were built, and strangers soon arrived in great numbers. Such is 
 the history of the town. 
 
 Nothing can be more graceful and picturesque than the road from Liege to Chaudfontaine, 
 (conveyances to Chaudfontaine start at every hour from Liege, particularly from M. Henrard's, 
 who keeps the Hotel de I'Europe, Place de la Comedie,) and thence to Verviers by Pepinster, 
 where it turns off to Spa. It is situated in the cool valley in which the Vesdre rolls its limpid 
 waters in such multiplied sinuosities tliat at each moment the river flows from right to left and 
 from left to right. The road to Chaudfontaine, which is among green hills, interspersed with 
 hamlets and country-houses, presents at every turn the most varied and interesting views. Tiie 
 railroad now being constructed from Liege to the Prussian frontiers by Verviers is in the same 
 valley of the Vesdre through which the road to Chaudfontaine passes. 
 
 Chaudfontaine is a commune of the province and district of Liege, two leagues from that town ; 
 population 1000 inhabitants. It is a pretty village, surrounded by charming landscapes. 
 
 The picturesque charms of the place, the delightful walks witii which it is surrounded, and the 
 efficaciousness of its waters, bring many strangers every year to Chaudfontaine ; and many come 
 
64 
 
 THE RniNE BOOK. 
 
 that led the three hundred to Thermopjla?, surrendered their lives for their 
 country. Liege was invested by an army forty thousand strong, led on by the 
 most daring captain of the time, Charles the Bold of Burgundy. The destruction 
 of the city seemed inevitable, when the men of Fi-anchimont enlisted together to 
 slay the invader or perish in the attempt. In the dead of night on the 29th of 
 October, 1467 (the day, aye the hour, deserves to be remembered) the devoted 
 band set out, and falling unexpectedly upon the enemy had well nigh succeeded in 
 their attempt to reach the tent of Charles. But numbers won the fight : might 
 triumphed over patriotism ; and the six hundi'ed men of Franchimont died sword 
 in hand doing manful battle for liberty. 
 
 also from Liege for the mere purpose of an agreeable excursion. Tliere are some good liotels at 
 Chaudfontaine, amongst which we may mention the Hotel de Liege, wliich is in the midst of tlie 
 narrow valley in which Chaudfontaine is situated. 
 
 
INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER. 
 
 H St. Servais. 
 
 I St. Antoine. 
 
 J Ci-devant St. Andre. 
 
 K Si. Barthelemy. 
 
 L University. 
 
 IVI Theatre. 
 
 N Palace. 
 
 O Town-house. 
 P Roval College. 
 Q St." Remade. 
 R Phi ip's Bath. 
 S B.shop's Palace. 
 T Seminary. 
 U St. Nicholas. 
 
 V St. Pholien. 
 X Soiirds-IVIuets. 
 
 Y Musical School. 
 Z Draper's Hall. 
 
 a a Hospital of Bavaria. 
 b b Slanshter House. 
 c c Market. 
 
 LIEGE. 
 
 Hotels. — Hotel du Pavilion Anglais, Place 
 St. Lambert ; Hotel de I'Europe, Place de la 
 Comedie ; Hotel de Londres, Place de la Co- 
 medle; Hotel de I'Aigle Noir, Rue Feronstree; 
 Hotel de France, Rue du Dragon d'Or ; Hotel 
 de Suede, Place de la Comedie, 
 
 CHIEF THINGS TO BE SEEN IS LIEGE. 
 
 1. The Cathedral. 
 
 2. The Bishop's Palace. 
 
 3. Church of St. Jacques. 
 
 4. The Citadel, for the view from its summit. 
 
 Post Office. — Principal office, Place St. 
 Jean ; open from 7 o'clock in the morning, to 
 9 at night. 
 
 Exchange Office. — Passage Lemonnier. 
 
 Theatres. — Theatre Royal, Place de la 
 Comedie : comedies, dramas, great operas, and 
 comic operas are performed here on Sunday, 
 Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday. 
 Price of admittance : parquet and I st boxes, 
 3 fr. ; 2d boxes, 1 fr. 50 c. ; pit, 1 fr. 25 c. 
 Gymnase, near St. Jacques : light pieces and 
 
66 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 dramas ; performs on the same days as the 
 Theatre Royal. Price of admittance, 1 st boxes, 
 2 fr. 50 c. ; parquet and 2d boxes, 1 fr. 50 c. ; 
 pit, 75 c. 
 
 Hacknet Coaches. — Vigilantes, Renais- 
 santes, Leopoldines, Dames Blanches ; stations 
 at every public square. Price, per course : 
 I horse, 50 c. ; 2 horses, 1 fr. : by the hour, 
 the 1st, 1 fr. 50 c.; the ensuing hours, each, 
 Ifr. 
 
 LIEGE, in Flemish Lvyck, and in Latin 
 Legia, a large and ancient town, formerly the 
 capital of the principality of that name, now the 
 chief town of the province, having a population 
 of 65,967 inhabitants according to a recent cen- 
 sus, is situated 50° 39' 22" N. lat., and 3° 1 1' 27" 
 E. longitude, in a fertile and pleasant valley on 
 the Maese, which crosses it, and at the conflu- 
 ence of the Ourte with that river. Two hills at 
 the distance of 1332 metres from each other, 
 St. Walburge and the Cornillon, overhang the 
 town, part of which rises as an amphitheatre on 
 the side of a hill commanded by the citadel, 
 which is 158 metres above the level of the sea. 
 The Maese, which flows between Huy and 
 Liege, widens as it approaches the latter town, 
 where it divides into two arms, one of which, 
 crossing part of the quarter called Outre- Meuse, 
 receives the Ourte at the bridge of St. Nicolas. 
 Liege appears to take its name from a small 
 stream called Legia, which flows down the vil- 
 lage of Ans, crosses the town by a subterranean 
 passage, and falls into the Maese above the 
 Pont des Arches : the common name of that 
 stream is now that of Ri de Coq Fontaine. 
 
 History. — The origin of Liege is ancient. 
 In 565, St. Monulph, bishop of Tongres, going 
 to the castle of Chievreniont, being struck with 
 the beauty of the situation, where, the legend 
 says, a flaming cross had been perceived, re- 
 solved to build a church there under the invo- 
 cation of St. Comus and St. Damian. In tliu 
 seventh century, St. Servais had transferred the 
 see of Tongres to Maestricht; in 712 St. Hu- 
 bert transferred it to Liege, and commenced the 
 construction of a church in honour of St. Peter. 
 
 Liege, which was already an important town, 
 was ravaged by the Normans in 882 ; its disas- 
 ters were to be repaired by Bishop Notger in 
 the tenth century. His government was iignal- 
 ised by immense works : thinking the cathedral 
 unworthy of so important a bishopric as that of 
 Liege, he had it demolished; and that rebuilt 
 under his orders, upon the same site, showed all 
 the grandeur of his conceptions. The memory 
 of this great bishop is still justly revered, and 
 he is considered as the real founder of the town. 
 From the thirteenth to the eighteenth centu- 
 ries, the history of Liege was a tissue of dis- 
 putes, disturbances, and wars between the 
 inhabitants of Liege and their bishops, who 
 were at the same time spiritual and temporal 
 sovereigns. The reigns of Albert de Cuick, of 
 John, Ferdinand, and Maximilian of Bavaria, 
 were marked by long and terrible dissensions. 
 The Emperor Otho IV., the Dukes of Bur- 
 gundy, Philip the Good, and Charles the Rash, 
 also had to punish the rebellious and turbulent 
 inhabitants of Liege : we have not room to 
 enter into the details of this period of civil war. 
 The temporal dominion of the bishops ended at 
 that of the French ; it had lasted about fourteen 
 centuries, and seen ninety bishops. The Prince 
 of Mean, who died archbishop of Mechlin, was 
 the last bishop-prince of Liege, which is at pre- 
 sent only the seat of a suffragan bishopric to 
 Mechlin. 
 
 The Town is divided into upjier and lower: 
 the houses of the upper i)art, adorned with gar- 
 dens, placed as it were one above the other, have 
 a delightful appearance when seen from below. 
 There are eleven public squares, among which 
 the Place St. Lambert, Place Verte, Place de la 
 Comedie and its neighbourhood, are the most 
 remarkable. The streets of Liege are in general 
 so narrow, that the authorities have fixed the 
 end at which several of them are to be entered 
 and (piitted by carriages : the high houses, by 
 which they are formetl, allow i)ut little air anil 
 light to penetrate; but in the new part there 
 are a few spacious streets and well-l)nilt houses. 
 The Ourte and the Maese, which flow through 
 the town, have rendered it necessurv to have 
 
LIEGE. 
 
 67 
 
 several bridges : there are thirteen, the most 
 important of which is the Pont des Arches, 
 which crosses the Maese at its greatest width. 
 
 The Palace. — It was the former residence 
 of the bishop-princes. Its first foundations 
 were laid in 973 by Bishop Notger : it was 
 burnt in 1185 with part of the town, rebuilt a 
 short time after, burnt anew in 1505, and re- 
 built in 1508 by Evrard de la Marek, such as 
 it is now. The principal front, which looks 
 upon the Place St. Lambert, has an imposing 
 appearance ; but the interior court and the 
 back elevation are more curious. It is now 
 used as a palace of justice; it also contains the 
 archives : the galleries which surround the 
 court are occupied by numerous shops. 
 
 Town Hall (Hotel de Ville). — The first 
 stone was laid in 1714; the former town hall, 
 built at the end of the fifteenth century, had 
 been destroyed in the bombardment of 1601 by 
 Marshal de Boufflers : the present building is 
 regular, and has a handsome front, adorned 
 with a flight of steps. 
 
 Cathedral Church of St. Paul. — For- 
 merly the cathedra], under the invocation of 
 St. Lambert, rose upon the fine square of that 
 name : gold and silver statues decorated its nu- 
 merous chapels ; round the choir, closed by a 
 fine gilt balustrade, were ranged the tombs of 
 the ecclesiastical princes of Liege. St. Paul, 
 made into a cathedral in 1793, was built in 968. 
 The church was rebuilt in the thirteenth cen- 
 tury ; the only part left of that period is the 
 back of the choir ; each following century has 
 added something to its architecture. A fine 
 figure of Christ, in bronze, by Delcourt, an 
 artist of Liege, attracts the eyes of the visitor 
 as he enters the church. Several pictures are 
 worthy of attention. A bust of St. Lambert, 
 of silver gilt, is preserved in the treasury of this 
 church ; the bones of the holy patron of Liege 
 are said to be contained in it : it is a remark- 
 able work of jewellery for the period, for it was 
 in 1513 that Bishop Evrard de la Marck or- 
 dered it to be executed. It cost seven years' 
 labour, and 100,000 crowns. 
 
 St. Jacques. — This is the wonder of Liege ; 
 
 in fact nothing can be imagined so majestic, 
 elegant, and light as this immense church. This 
 master-piece was built in the year 1014. 
 
 St. Martin. — This church was founded in 
 962 by the Bishop Eracle, upon an eminence 
 which overlooks the town ; it was destroyed in 
 1302 in a bloody struggle between the nobility 
 and the citizens, and was only rebuilt in 1542. 
 The festival of the Holy Sacrament, or the Fete 
 Dieu, which all the Catholic world now cele- 
 brates, was celebrated for the first time in the 
 church of St. Martin. 
 
 The University, established by a royal de- 
 cree of Sept. 25. 1816, is a building on the 
 banks of the Maese, on the ruins of the church 
 of the Jesuits. It contains a library consisting 
 of 75,000 volumes, a collection of medals, a ca- 
 binet of natural philosophy and astronomy, a 
 chemical laboratory, a mineralogical collection, 
 and a cabinet of zoology, &c. &c. 
 
 The Botanical Garden, in which the clas- 
 sification is made according to the method of 
 Jussieu, contains more than 3500 sorts, and the 
 hothouses and orangery more than 2000. Liege 
 possesses a school of arts and manufactures, an 
 artillery school, a veterinary establishment, a 
 royal institution for deaf and dumb persons, a 
 royal conservatory of music, an academy of 
 drawing, painting, sculpture, architecture, en- 
 graving, and carving. 
 
 Citadel. — The foundation was laid in 1255 
 by Bishop Henri de Guildre, upon the heights 
 of St. Walburge : it was afterwards demolished 
 and then rebuilt ; taken and retaken by the 
 French ; and its fortifications were only rebuilt 
 in 1820. The traveller should ascend to its 
 summit, if it were only to enjoy the magnifi- 
 cent panorama presented by Liege, the Maese, 
 and its tributaries. On the right bank of the 
 river is the Chartreuse, another fortress, a quar- 
 ter of a league from the town. 
 
 Commerce. — Trade is very flourishing at 
 Liege : the railway which, on its way from Os- 
 tend and Antwerp, goes by Liege to the fron- 
 tiers of Prussia, cannot but increase the pros- 
 perity of this town. It has several manufactories 
 and founderies for working metals and for the 
 
68 
 
 THE EHINE BOOK 
 
 building of steam-engines ; it has also a cannon 
 and zinc foundery. The manufacture of wea- 
 pons is very considerable, and they are exported 
 to the amount of several millions of francs 
 yearly. The numerous coal mines of the pro- 
 vince also form one of the most considerable 
 branches of trade of the country. 
 
 Celebrated ^Ien. — Demarteau (Gilles), 
 the inventor of engraving after the manner of 
 crayons, born in 1729, died in 1776; Gretry 
 (Andre Ernest IModeste), a celebrated composer, 
 whose reputation has become European, born 
 in 1741, died in 1812; Laicelle (Gerard de), a 
 painter, born in 1640, died in 1711. 
 
 I II- LIE AND THE MEU;-h. 
 
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 
 
 69 
 
 THE CITY OF CHARLEMAGNE. — THE LEGENDS OF AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 
 
 ROM Liege to Aix-la- Chapelle the distance, which 
 
 is not great, is soon traversed by railway, and 
 
 jf as the Rhine aAvaits him, the traveller will scarcely 
 
 feel interested in the names of the unimportant places 
 
 Avhicli the train hurries by. Yerviers is the principal 
 
 station, but all that need be said of it is, that its twenty 
 
 thousand inhabitants are chiefly employed in the manufacture 
 
 of cloth, much of which is used for the army. Verviers finds 
 
 uniforms as Liege finds muskets for the Belgian troops, and, 
 
 indeed, for the soldiers of a considerable portion of Northern Germany. 
 
 Aix-la-Chapelle is the city of Charlemagne — the man of his age 
 — whose spirit i-egenerated "Western Europe after the Roman empire had 
 been destroyed. With almost boundless ambition, he was not a mere 
 conqueror, but a statesman and legislator also, and hence his ambition was 
 elevated and enlarged, and w^-ought out great and noble results. His was the 
 task to curb within the bounds of discipline the turbulent Franks ; his the power 
 to subdue for the general welfare the insubordinate vassals of an extensive 
 kino-dom. The founder of the German Empire, he changed tribes of lawless 
 barbarians into a federation of civilised people, driving the Saracens beyond the 
 Ebro, overthrowing the Longobards in Italy, and including under his rule 
 Germany, the Netherlands, the Gauls, the greater part of Italy and Spain, with 
 the Balearic Islands, Corsica and Sardinia. From the Ebro to the mouth of the 
 Elbe, from the Atlantic to the mountains of Bohemia and the Raab, and from 
 the British Channel to the Volturno, all were ruled by the head and hand that 
 made its home in Aix. There did Charlemagne rest himself between his cam- 
 paigns ; there he deliberated in council, and amidst its green shades thought out 
 the plans for extending and cementing his empire. At Aix-la-Chapelle he 
 received embassies from the Caliph of Bagdad ; there he entertained envoys from 
 the Saxon kings of England, with whom he was on terms of friendship ; and there 
 he endeavoured to advance literature and general enlightenment by the only means 
 then known, — by the foundation of monasteries and the encouragement of the only 
 learned men of those days, the priests. In fine, Aix was the scene of the most 
 interesting personal and domestic episodes in the brilliant career of Chai'lemagne. 
 At the close of a winter's evening an old and venerable-looking man was seen 
 
70 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 busily engaged digging a grave in a small churchyard on the banks of the Maine 
 outside Frankfurt. His grizzled locks told the number of years that had passed 
 over his broAV ; but his frame was yet hale and vigorous, and as he cast up the earth 
 from the deepening pit, two or three curious idlers stood watching his toils and 
 listening to the ditty, half sung half chaunted, with which he lightened his labours. 
 
 ^i^e ^ong of tijc C5rntic--Biggcr. 
 
 I delve — I delve — in the earth full deep, 
 
 A bed for the troubled mourner's sleep ; 
 
 And dark and lonesome, dank and dread, 
 
 ITie clayey couch I smooth for the dead ; 
 
 Yet though noisome, dark, and drear, 
 
 No voice of complaint from The Dead I hear ; 
 Each is content with his narrow room, 
 The Grave gives calm till the Day of Doom. 
 
 I've lived — long years — three score and ten. 
 
 And I've dug the graves of a hundred men : 
 
 A grave for the maiden, yoimg and fair, 
 
 A grave for the child with its flowing hair; 
 
 The widow'd mother in accents wild. 
 
 Calls on me for her only child, 
 
 But no silken sleeper so still as they 
 
 Who seek their rest in the churchyard clay. 
 
 I delve — I delve — and the selfsame spade 
 
 With which the miser's grave was made 
 
 Ere two summers their course had run, 
 
 Shap'd a place for his spendthrift son ; 
 
 The High and the Lowly — my spade so old 
 
 For each has fasliion'd tlie grave-yard mould ; 
 No couch of down is from care so free 
 As the bed that is made by my spade and me. 
 
 The lookers-on still lingered about the newly-made grave, although night 
 drew on apace and a chilling wind came gustily across the Maine. The city was 
 full of anxiety; flying rumours of all sorts were current, and such was the 
 temper of the times, that those most improbable were the most greedily 
 listened to, and the most implicitly believed. Their almost worshii)pod Emperor 
 Charlemagne was amongst them, but not of them. He mourned for the lo.ss of 
 his beautiful consort Frastrade, and no man could comfort him. For three Ions 
 weeks had she been dead, but still the monarch would iu)t hear death spoken of. 
 She did but sleep, he said, and although her body had long given forth sufficient 
 
ArX-LA-CHAPELLE. 
 
 proof that even an Empress must obey the universal destiny, " unto dust thou 
 shalt return;" although the once lovely form, full of life and blooming like an 
 early rose, had been stricken with the cold, heavy, waxen hue of death ; although 
 the face long famed for beauty showed the unmistakeable traces of the Destroyer, 
 and was blackening to the hue of the earth, the final destiny of all flesh ; although 
 the freshest flowers of the garden, and the strongest frankincense of the Eastern 
 merchant were too weak to drown the most disgusting of the proofs that death 
 had been there ; — still the Emperor clung to the chamber of his beloved, and would 
 not abate his watchfulness " till Frastrade woke." 
 
 Meantime the affairs of the empire were falling into confusion for want of the 
 iron hand of Charlemagne. Provinces were on the eve of revolt, and foreign 
 foes were mustering their forces to take advantage of the sudden madness of the 
 Emperor, and the confusion of his ministers. Things were in this state when, 
 worn by anxiety and thought, the chief councillor, the Archbishop of Rheims, 
 walked forth for refreshaient on the banks of the Maine. It was a moonlight 
 night, but gusty withal, dark clouds driving across the heavens as though one 
 grotesque form chased another to see which should most quickly obscure the 
 face of the luminary, and then drive onward towards the horizon. The Arch- 
 bishop gazed on all this, and was within himself comparing the shadows to the 
 Evil Spirit that was clouding the destiny of the Emperor, when, as he neared 
 the gi'ave-yard, the largest cloud in the heavens shut out the moon. For a 
 moment all was darkness, when the huge vapour seemed to open in the midst for 
 a short space, and then through the rift shot down one bright gleam of light, the 
 more brilliant for the surrounding gloom. " A good omen," murmured the old man ; 
 and as he gazed upon the spot where the light fell, he was gradually aware of a form 
 of surpassing majesty built up of the glittering moonbeam; transparent, yet real. 
 " I am the good genius of Charlemagne," said the vision, in tones like the dying 
 echoes of music over a frozen lake, cold, clear, yet beautiful : " I come to teach you 
 how to remove the shadow from his spirit. He sleeps ; dig where I stand a grave, 
 and let the festering body of Frastrade lie in it. But mark ! ere you touch her 
 corpse, search beneath her tongue, and take what you will find there." As IT 
 spoke, the cloud passed from the moon, and the outlines of the Apparition expanded 
 on every side until it seemed to wrap all things in a robe of glorious moonlight. 
 
 The Ai-chbishop of Eheims was the boldest as well as most trusty of the 
 councillors, and, after a moment's thought, he hurried towards the grotesquely 
 carved door which marked the abode of the 2;ravedigg:er. 
 
 " No silken sleeper so calm as they 
 
 Who seek a couch in the churchyard clay," 
 
 sang a voice from the low-roofed hovel, as though finishing a song. " Ay, ay," 
 
72 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 said the cliurchnian, " the sexton is still a-foot, aud this night will I fulfil the 
 injunction so marvellously laid upon me." 
 
 In half an hour the grave was begun, and the song of the old sexton seemed 
 to help him on with his work, and in half an hour the Archbishop stood in the 
 chamber of Frastrade. The corpse lay on a couch as though asleep, and the 
 Emperor, exhausted by watching, slept, kneeling at the bedside, his head resting 
 on one of the festering hands of his once lovely spouse. With careful foot and 
 cautious hand the churchman approached the dead ; the canopy was drawn aside, 
 and, half trembling, he looked curiously at the form before him. The eyes were 
 open, staring with a fixed glassy look, as though to scare the living from the 
 spot ; the cheeks were sunken, and the nose pinched up ; the jaw had fallen, and, 
 as he peered into the open mouth, he saw that the tongue was shrunk and 
 shrivelled up, exposing just one corner of a glittering gem buried beneath it. 
 With hasty though nervous fingers he seized the brilliant token, and, as he moved 
 it from its long-hidden socket, a loud wail, as of mortal agony, startled the silence 
 of the chamber of death, and aroused the king. Hastily concealing the treasure 
 within his robe, he approached the monarch, who, rising from his knees, threw 
 himself, as in an ecstasy, into the Archbishop's arms. 
 
 The spell was broken. 
 
 Throwing a glance of horror at the remains of his wife, Charlemagne joyfully 
 left the chamber, and even as he went agreed to the Councillor's arrangements 
 for her burial. The stealthy grave so hastily prepared was unnecessary, for the 
 king now wished the interment, and the body was borne in stately procession from 
 Frankfurt to Mayence, where a tomb, still to be seen, was raised to the memory of 
 Frastrade. At the Archbishop's desire, also, he took his seat in the Hall of 
 Audience, and resumed the duties of his state. Once more the Empire was put 
 in order, and all things went well, for the churchman had really at heart the 
 welfare of his sovereign and the extension of his power, and all that he suggested 
 Charlemagne obediently agreed to. All the courtiers saw with surprise that a 
 new idol had taken the place of the dead Empress. Dignities and riches were 
 heaped on the new possessor of the mysterious charm ; but the favours gave rise to 
 less than usual envy, since he who received them dispensed them again with a 
 bountiful hand, as though he sought to retain not one of the gifts so lavishly 
 bestowed. Frastrade's power over Charlemagne had often led to wixv and 
 punishment, — the Archbishop of Kheims used his influence for the honour of the 
 state and the comfort of the courtiers. But the secret was irksome to its pos- 
 sessor, and long he pondered how he should destroy the spell. At length, when 
 the court was at Aix-la-Chapelle, he determined to rid himself of the mystic 
 jewel, and choosing a dark night he left the palace, and by a well-known patli 
 sought a deep pool near the centre of a morass, which he liad nuvrked before us 
 
" RELICS " AT AIX- LA-CHAPELLE. 73 
 
 suitable to his purpose from its being a spot seldom visited and not easy of access, 
 and hence most suitable for concealing the gem which he determined that no man 
 should find. Coming to the spot, he held the shining bauble for a moment over 
 the da7-k still waters — loosed his hold — and down, down, down, he saw it sink, 
 as though the pit was bottomless, and the gem's ray of light was unwilling to be 
 quenched for ever. 
 
 Next morning the court were surprised to find that the archbishop's influence 
 was gone, and that the Emperor found no pleasure but in wandering round about 
 the city alone. At length his walks were confined to one spot, a pool in the 
 midst of a morass. There he would sit by the hour gazing upon the still waters, 
 and after a while he built himself a home — the Castle of Frankenburg — the ruins 
 of which the Traveller may yet see near Aix-la-Chapelle, and as he approaches 
 the legend-haunted spot by a bridge which crosses the sedgy pool, he may peer in 
 its waters, and seek what has never since been found — Frastrada's Spell. 
 
 FEW years after the death of his best-loved wife, Charlemagne built 
 La Chapelle, which has ever since given the city its French name ; 
 and which to our time contains his tomb, or rather so much of it as 
 sacrilege has left, and his epitaph of two words, " Carolo Magno." 
 He died in 814, and was buried with great pomp.* His body was 
 placed in a sitting posture, xipon a stone chair, surrounded by the parapher- 
 nalia of royalty, and for three centuries it remained sacred. In the twelfth 
 century, however, Frederic Barbarossa opened the tomb that he might sit in the 
 stone chaii*, and after that time the German Emperors used it as the seat of state 
 
 * Victor Hugo makes Aix-la-Chapelle the birth-place of Charlemagne, which is an error. He 
 was born at Salzburg in Bavaria. The same clever Frenchman describes some royal visits to 
 Aix-la-Chapelle. " In 1804, just when Bonaparte had progressed into Napoleon, he visited Aix- 
 la-Chapelle. Josephine, who accompanied him, indulged in the caprice of sitting upon this marble 
 throne. But the Emperor, though he did not control this indecorous whim of his Creole wife, 
 had attired himself for the occasion, from a d-eep sense of deference to that mighty name, in full 
 regimentals, and "stood silent, motionless, and bareheaded, before the chair of Charlemagne. 
 Charlemagne died in 814. In 1814, one thousand years afterwards, almost to an hour, occurred 
 the fall or moral death of Napoleon. In the course of the same fatal year the allied sovereigns 
 visited the grave of Charles the Great ; when Alexander of Russia mounted his gala-uniform in 
 imitation of Napoleon, while Frederick William of Prussia appeared in an undress, and the 
 Emperor of Austria in a great coat and round hat. The King of Prussia entered into all the 
 details of the coronations of the German emperors, with the provost of the Chapter : but the two 
 emperors observed a profound silence. All these are now as silent as Charlemagne ! Napoleon, 
 Josephine, Alexander, Frederick William, and Francis II., are cold in their graves I" — \^Excursions 
 along the Batiks of the Rhine. By Victor Hugo. London: H. Colburn, 1843.] 
 
74 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 at their coronations. The sword and sceptre of the Conqueror are gone, but his 
 chair remains an enduring memento of his sepulchre in the cathedraL Various 
 bones and other relics are in the church, some of which are shown (for a con-sid- 
 er-a-ti-on) and others hidden from the ordinary visitor. He may believe or doubt 
 their genuineness, as he pleases, but he will scarcely be able to control the thoughts 
 that will suggest themselves when he sees the skull and arm of Charlemagne made 
 a show of to coax a few francs from the pockets of the sight-seer. The present 
 King of Prussia is a man of good taste : why does he not say a word to stop this 
 sacrilegious insult to the memory of the regenerator of Western Europe ? 
 
 The Cathedral is full of interest to the architect as well as the anti(]uary, for 
 both find amongst its incongruities various choice specimens of different ages, 
 styles, and tastes. At one of the entrances is seen a bronze wolf, placed there to 
 keep in memory a monkish legend, told to all travellers, and thus rendered from 
 the tradition of the place into English by a IMr. White, in a volume published by 
 M. Koluien at Aix-la-Chapelle. 
 
 " In former times the zealous and devout inhabitants of Aix-la-Chapelle determined to build 
 a cathedral. For six months the clang of the hammer and axe resounded with wonderful activity, 
 but alas ! the money which had been supplied by pious Christians for this holy work became 
 exhausted, the wages of the masons were suspended, and with them their desire to hew and 
 hammer, for, after all, men were not so very religious in those days as to build a temple on 
 credit. 
 
 " Thus it stood, lialf finished, resembling a falling ruin. Moss, grass, and wild parsley flourished 
 in the cracks of the walls, screech-owls already discovered convenient places for their nests, and 
 amorous sparrows hopped lovingly about where holy priests should have been teaching lessons of 
 chastity. 
 
 " The builders were confounded, they endeavoured to borrow here and there, but no rich man 
 could be induced to advance so large a sum. The collections from house to house fell short, so 
 that instead of the much-wished-for golden foxes nothing was found but cop])er in the l)ushes. 
 When the magistracy received this report they were out of humour, and looked witli desponding 
 countenances towards the cathedral walls, as fathers look upon the remains of favourite chikiren. 
 
 " At this moment a stranger of commanding figure and something of pride in his voice and bearing 
 entered, and exclaimed ' lion Dies ! they say that you are out of sjiirits. Hem ! if nothing but 
 money is wanting, you may console yourselves, gentlemen. I possess mines of gold and silver, 
 and both can and will most willingly supply you with a ton of it.' 
 
 " The astounded senators sat like a row of (lillars, measuring the stranger from head to foot. 
 The Burgomaster first found his tongue. ' Who are you, noble lord,' said he, 'that thus, entirely 
 unknown, speak of tons of gold as though they were sacks of beans? Tell us your name, your 
 rank in this world, and whether you are sent from the regions above to assist us.' ' I have not 
 the lionour to reside there,' replied the stranger, ' and, between ourselves, I beg most particularly 
 to be no longer troubled with questions concerning who :iiul \rliat I am. Sulliee it to say I have 
 gold plentifid as summer hay !' Tlien, drawing forth a leatiiern ])oui-li. he ))roceeded : • this 
 little piu-se contains the tenth of what I'll give. 'i'lie rest shall soon bo forthcoming. Now listen, 
 my masters,' continued he, clinking the coin, 'all (his truminry is and shall remain yours if you 
 
promise to give me the first little soul that enters the door of the new temple when it is con- 
 secrated.' 
 
 " The astonished senators now sprung from their seats as if they had been shot up by an earth- 
 quake, and then rushed pele-mele, and fell all of a lump into the farthest corner of the room, where 
 they rolled and clung to each other like lambs frightened at flashes of lightning. Only one of the 
 party, who had not entirely lost his wits, collected his remaining senses, and, drawing his head out 
 of the heap, uttered boldly, ' Avaunt, thou wicked spirit !' 
 
 " But the stranger, who was no less a person than Master Urian, laughed at them. ' What's all 
 this outcry about ? ' said he at length: ' is my offence so heinous that you are all become like 
 children ? It is I that may suffer from this business, not you. With my hundreds and thousands 
 I have not far to run to buy a score of souls. From you I ask but one in exchange for all my 
 money. What are you picking at straws for? One may plainly see you are a mere set of 
 humbugs ! For the good of the commonwealth (which high-sounding name is often borrowed 
 for all sorts of purposes) many a prince would instantly conduct a whole army to be butchered, 
 and you refuse one single man for that purpose ! Fie ! I am ashamed, O overwise counsellors, 
 to hear you reason thus absurdly and citizen-like. What, do you think to deprive yourselves of 
 the kernel of your people by granting my wish ? O no, there your wisdom is quite at fault, for, 
 depend on it, hypocrites are always the earliest churchbirds.' 
 
 " By degrees, as the cunning fiend thus spoke, the senators took courage and whispered in each 
 other's ear, 'What is the use of our resisting? The grim lion will only show his teeth once — 
 if we don't assent, we shall infallibly be packed off ourselves. It is better, therefore, to quiet him 
 directly.' Scarcely was this sanguinary contract concluded when a swarm of purses flew into the 
 room through the doors and windows, and Urian, more civil than before, took leave without 
 leaving any smell behind. He stopped, however, at the door, and called out with a grim leer, 
 ' Count it over again for fear that I may have cheated you.' 
 
 " Tlie hellish gold was piously expended in finishing the cathedral, but nevertheless, when the 
 building shone forth in all its splendour, the whole town was filled with fear and alarm at the 
 sight of it. The fact was that, although the senators had promised by bond and oath not to trust 
 the secret to any body, one of them had prated to his wife, and she had made it a market-place 
 tale, so that all declared they would never set foot within the temple. The terrified council now 
 consulted the clergy, but the good priests all hung down their heads. At last a monk cried out, 
 ' A thought strikes me. The wolf which has so long ravaged the neighbourhood of our town 
 was this morning caught alive. This will be a well-merited punishment for the destroyer of our 
 flocks ; let him be cast to the devil in the fiery gulf. 'Tis possible the arch hell-hound may not 
 relish this breakfast, yet nolens volens he must swallow it. You promised him certainly a soul, 
 but whose was not decidedly specified.' 
 
 " The monk's plan was plausible, and the senate determined to put the cunning trick into 
 execution. At length the day of consecration arrived, and orders were given to bring the wolf to 
 the principal entrance of the cathedral ; so just as the bells began to ring the trap-door of the cage 
 was pulled open, and the savage beast darted out into the nave of the empty church. Master 
 Urian from his lurking-place beheld this consecration-offering with the utmost fury. Burning 
 with choler at being thus deceived he raged like a tempest, and then rushed forth, slamming the 
 brass gate so violently after him that the rings split in two. 
 
 " This crack, which serves to commemorate the priest's victory over the tricks of the devil, 
 is still exhibited to the gaping travellers who visit the cathedral." 
 
 Thus much for the Legend. But although the devil was thus disappointed at 
 
76 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 the Cathedral, he has since been revenged most amply upon Aix ; for he came 
 afterwards in the disguise of a rich German baron, and established gaming-tables in 
 the town. From that day he has secured an ample supply of victims ; for Aix- 
 la-Chapelle is the only place in the Prussian dominions where gambling is per- 
 mitted ; and hence all those infatuated by the Daemon of Chance fly to its waters 
 for health, and to its tables for destruction. Could the history of the Comphaus- 
 bad-Strasse be told, it would make a frightful tale of blighted hopes, lost fortunes, 
 and early despair — of sin, disgrace, and suicide — the seldom-failing fate of the 
 Gambler. 
 
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 
 
 77 
 
 INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER. 
 
 1 c&ihedral. 
 
 2 Evangelical Church 
 
 3 Town Hall. 
 
 4 Theatre. 
 
 5 "Elisenbronnen — Mineral spring 
 
 6 Government Offices, 
 
 7 Post Office. 
 
 8 Barracks. 
 
 9 Freemasons" jLoiige. 
 
 U KLaiserbad — Baths of the Empeboii 
 12 Baths of Quirinus 
 
 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 
 
 HOTELS. 
 
 Hotel du Grand Monarque. 
 
 Hotel of the Four Seasons, by M. Kostelezky 
 — a good house, and near the Railway. 
 
 Hotel du Dragon d'Or. 
 
 Hotel du Rhin, by Madame Haamann. Rue 
 St. Jacques, near the Royal Post Office. 
 
 Hotel de la Couronne Imperiale. 
 
 Hotel de la Tourelle. 
 
 Hotel d'Angleterre. 
 
 Hotel de I'Europo. 
 
 Hotel de I'Empereur. 
 
 The Grand Hotel. 
 
 Hotel de Charlemagne. 
 
 Hotel de Belle Vue. 
 
 H6tel de St. Martin. 
 
 Hotel of the Great Elephant. 
 
 Hotel de Mayence. 
 
 Hotel of the King of Spain. 
 
'8 
 
 THE RHINE UOOK. 
 
 CHIEF THINGS TO BE SFEN IN AIX-LA-CHAI'ELLE. 
 
 The Cathedral. 
 
 The Town Hall. 
 
 The Eliza Fountain. 
 
 The Baths. 
 
 Those travellers who stay more than a few 
 hours in Aix will find the environs of the city 
 very interesting, and may visit : — 
 
 Schonthal. 
 
 Schbnforst. 
 
 Cornelymunster. 
 
 Ileidchen. 
 
 Helenens Werth. 
 
 Emmaburg. 
 
 Laurensberg. 
 
 Kaisersriih. 
 
 Kalkofen. 
 
 Le Viaduct. 
 
 Wilhelmstein. 
 
 StoUberg. 
 
 Vaels. 
 
 Louisberg. 
 
 Forest of Pauline. 
 
 Forest of Trimborn. 
 
 Le monument des Monarques. 
 
 The tower of the Ramparts aftbrds an ex- 
 cellent view of the city. 
 
 THE WATERS OF AIX-LA-CH APELLE, 
 
 As the waters of Aix are its great sources of 
 attraction, the following information from the 
 work of Dr. Wetzlar, a talented physician of the 
 place, will be read with interest. 
 
 A peculiar taste of common salt, some alka- 
 line substances, and sulphur, is common to all 
 warm springs. The sulphureous taste and 
 smell are stronger in those which are called the 
 Higher than in the Lower springs. Their 
 temperature is between 135° and 1 15° of Fahr. ; 
 the specific weight is about the same in all, of 
 1 -004, the specific weight of common distilled 
 water, of the same temperature, taken at 1 'OOO. 
 These waters, when taken directly from the 
 spring, are clear and without any colour, but 
 having been exposed for a little time to the air, 
 they become dim, and a white sediment is 
 
 formed. If the water is exposed to the air for 
 a longer time, it loses all its smell and taste of 
 sulphur. 
 
 The difference between the single sulphu- 
 reous springs is considerable, though they agree 
 in many essential points. The springs which 
 originate in the upper part of the town (in the 
 Biichelstrasse and on the Ikittcrmarkt.) and 
 supply the bath-houses situated there, and also 
 the Elisenbrunnen, with water, are called the 
 Higher springs. Those which supply the 
 bath-houses in the Compesbadstrasse and on the 
 Daracngraben are called the Lower springs. 
 The former have a higher temperature, and 
 contain more solid and volatile substances than 
 the latter. Great choice is therefore left to the 
 physician, in prescribing the use of the bath he 
 may think most proper for his patient. The 
 higher springs are, the Emperor's, the Quirinus 
 spring, and a little spring in front of the Em- 
 peror's bath. The lower are, the Rosenbad 
 (Rosebath) spring, the Cornelius spring, and 
 the spring of the old drinking-well. All these 
 springs contain a great many solid substances, 
 chiefly salts and gases. Sixteen ounces of 
 water taken from the Emperor's spring con- 
 tain : — 
 
 Sulphuret of sodium 
 Muriato of siula 
 Carbonate of soda 
 Sulphate of soda - 
 Phos])hate of soda 
 Animal organic substance 
 Silicate oxide 
 Fluorate of lime - 
 Carbonate of lime 
 Phosphate of soda and litliia] 
 Carbonate of magnesia 
 Carbonate of strontia J 
 
 Grains. 
 Of)ll)78 
 20-71572 
 (i-60956 
 2-12083 
 0-U.24G 
 0-29:W4 
 5X(;()0 
 0-47i)23 
 0-23224 
 
 0-19545 
 
 Total grains SlO+rill 
 
 The quantity of gases issuing constantly out 
 of the springs is very considerable; 100 cubic 
 inches of those gases taken from the Emperor's 
 spring have been found to consist of: — 
 
 Nitrogen gas 
 Carbonic gas 
 Super-sulphuretted hydrogen gas J 
 
 09* cubic inches. 
 30 
 
 The chemist 1 have already (]uoted was. ac- 
 cording to my oi)inion, fully entitled to call 
 the hydro-sulphuric gas of oiu- springs 
 
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 
 
 79 
 
 super-sulphuretted hydrogen gas, because 
 this gas is proved to contain more sulphur than 
 is necessary for forming the common hydro- 
 sulphuric gas ; for though a part of the 
 sulphur contained in the gas leaves it, and com- 
 bines itself with surrounding colder objects, as 
 soon as the water loses a little of its high tem- 
 perature, yet the hydro-sulphuric gas left in it 
 continues to act chemically in the very same 
 way as the gas we prepare in our laboratories. 
 There can be hardly any doubt, that by sub- 
 terraneous heat and compression, hydrogen gas 
 combines with a larger proportion of sulphur 
 than it can in the open air, which accounts for 
 the circumstance, that a large quantity of pure 
 sulphur is deposited in a sediment in the water 
 reservoirs, and the tubes which conduct the 
 waters from different springs to baths or foun- 
 tains lying at soine distance from them. 
 
 The temperatures of the several springs are 
 as follows : — 
 
 The Emperor's spring is 135A degrees. 
 Quiriiius spring IITA ditto. 
 Lower springs 115i 
 
 There are eight bath-houses, four of which 
 derive their water from the higher sources and 
 four from the lower : — 
 
 1. The Emperor's bath (Bain de I'Empe- 
 reur, Rue Biichel,) is supplied with water by a 
 hot sulphureous spring issuing from the large 
 rock, upon the summit of which the market 
 square and the town hall stand, forming what is 
 called the Emperor's well ; and by another 
 spring of the same temperature, issuing in front 
 of this bath-house. The Emperor's Well fur- 
 nishes so large a quantity of water that it gives 
 an ample supply to two other bath-houses, and 
 to the Fontaine Elise. 
 
 2. The New Bath Hotel is a large and 
 splendid building, newly erected in the same 
 street. It obtains an abundant supply of water 
 from the Emperor's spring. 
 
 3. The Bain de la Reine de Hongrie, situ- 
 ated on the Buttermarkt, deriving its water 
 from the same spring. 
 
 4. The Bain St. Quirin is provided with 
 water from the Quirinus spring. 
 
 3. The Rosebath Hotel, situated in the Rue 
 Compesbad, is supplied with water from the 
 Rosebath spring, issuing in the yard of the 
 hotel. 
 
 6. & 7. The Cornelius and Charles baths 
 obtain the water necessary for their use from 
 the Cornelius spring, issuing in the yard of the 
 former. The three last-mentioned splendid 
 buildings stand close together in the Rue Com- 
 pesbad. 
 
 The before-mentioned bath-houses contain 
 bathing-rooms for common baths, as well as for 
 douches and pumping-baths. The apparatus 
 for douches is excellent. Large reservoirs are 
 in each bath-house, for cooling the warm 
 mineral water. Most of the bath-houses con- 
 tain vapour-baths of hot sulphureous water. 
 One great convenience in all the bath-houses is, 
 that furnished apartments, at various prices, 
 according to the elegance or comfort of the 
 rooms, can be obtained by persons taking a 
 course of waters. Patients who prefer residing 
 in a bath-house should be guided in their 
 choice, as much by the springs their physician 
 prescribes for their complaints, as by the com- 
 forts they are desirous of meeting wltli. 
 
 Poor patients are not forgotten at Aix-la- 
 Chapelle, and a bath-house in the Damengraben 
 is appropriated to their use, where they may 
 bathe for a very trifling sum. 
 
 Persons who drink the waters may do so in 
 their bath-houses, but the water of the Fon- 
 taine Elise is generally preferred. It is situ- 
 ated in Frederic William Square, one of the 
 finest parts of the town. Its facade, 266 feet 
 long, is ornamented in the Doric style. In the 
 centre is a Rotunda, 56}^ feet in diameter, and 
 46 feet in height. Colonnades, forming a 
 covered promenade 180 feet long, issue from 
 the rotunda. There is a pavilion on both sides 
 containing rooms for refreshments. The foun- 
 tain is in the rotunda. Two staircases lead 
 down to it ; and for patients who are not equal 
 to the task of walking down, tumblers of water 
 are wound up from the depth of the rotunda, 
 by a mechanical contrivance. The rotunda is 
 decorated with a marble bust of Eliza, Queen 
 
80 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 of Prussia, who was pleased to give lier name 
 to the fountain. Tlie scjuare in which the 
 fountain is situated is adorned with trees, 
 which alFord ample shade from the sun to those 
 who use exercise to digest the water. 
 
 THE HIGHER, OR JIURIATIC ALKALINE SPRINGS. 
 
 1. The Kochbrunnen, or Boiling Well. — 
 This is situated in the town of Borcette, in a 
 small valley formed by the two mountains upon 
 the declivities of which the town is built. Its 
 temperature is 140°, its specific weight 1-004. 
 It is surrounded by a wall, and forms a well, in 
 the centre of which the spring issues from some 
 small clefts between the rocks. 
 
 2. A spring issuing in the Krebsbad (Cray- 
 fish) Bath-house, almost of the same qualities as 
 the preceding, having a temperature of 15.3°. 
 
 3. The hottest spring of Borcette, being 
 171°, by which four bath-houses are supplied 
 with water. 
 
 4. A Muriatic Alkaline spring, rising in the 
 garden of the Crayfish bath-house, 153° of tem- 
 perature, which furnishes a large quantity of 
 hot sulphureous water to the Ilosebath hotel, 
 ur.ed there for baths. 
 
 According to Monheim's analysis, 16 ounces 
 of the mineral water from each of the several 
 springs contain — 
 
 The Boiling Well. 
 
 
 The Drink- 
 
 Boiling Well 
 
 
 ing Sprinn. 
 
 
 
 Grains. 
 
 Grains. 
 
 Sulphuret of sodium 
 
 - O-2909S 
 
 
 Muriate of soda - 
 
 - 20-G24()2 
 
 20-710% 
 
 Carbonate of soda 
 
 G-r)!»!)oO 
 
 GG.5103 
 
 Sulphate of sod:i- 
 
 - 2-r>(J704 
 
 2'M'JM) 
 
 Phos|)liate of soda 
 
 - n-i.iir)4 
 
 0-149!U 
 
 Animal orpaiiic substance 
 
 - 0'20835 
 
 0-M371 
 
 Silicate acid - - - 
 
 O-.'i.ViSO 
 
 0-5-)5'.l.'J 
 
 Fluate of lime 
 
 - o-4Hri4r) 
 
 0-r,0-i34 
 
 (;arl)onate of lime 
 
 - 0-240(;'J 
 
 0-3()83.") 
 
 Carl)on;iti' ol maj,'iipsia '. 
 
 ) 
 
 
 Carbonate of strontian 
 
 >■ - 0-ir)r)!i(; 
 
 ()-20421 
 
 rhosphate of soda-litliia . 
 
 \ 
 
 
 Total grains 31-87233 
 
 32-25.5<J0 
 
 The gases contained in the waters of Borcette 
 are in the following pr()])ortions : — 100 cubic 
 inches of the gases emanating from tlie si)rings 
 consist of — 
 
 T/ic Drinking Spring. 
 
 Nitrogen gas 
 Carbonic gas 
 Oxygen gas - 
 
 The lloUesl Spring. 
 
 Nitrogen gas 
 Carbonic gas 
 Oxygen gas - 
 
 Cubic in. 
 - 71-5 
 . 28-4 
 -I 
 
 Cubic in. 
 
 - 71-3.5 
 
 - -1.5 
 
 Nitrogen gas 
 (Carbonic tias 
 Hydriisulpliuric gas 
 
 Cultic in. 
 
 7075 
 
 ■2!) (15 
 
 -20 
 
 The Traveller's passport is examined at Aix by 
 the Prussian authorities. Tlie commissionaire 
 of any of the hotels will see tliis attended to for 
 half a franc. 
 
 The Cathedral, (in German Milnster), — 
 is situated in the centre of tlie town, and was 
 originally built by Charlemagne, by whose 
 order the work was commenced in 796, and 
 finished in 804. Tliis building is recorded to 
 have been one of the most magnificent of Char- 
 lemagne's time, but it was very much injured by 
 an earthquake in 813, by the Normans who 
 plundered it, and by the conflagrations in 1 14G, 
 1234, 1236, and 1656, and has in consequence 
 underffone several material chantres. It is of an 
 octagonal form, forty-eight feet in diameter, 
 with a gallery running round it, communicating 
 with the choir. The granite and jiorphyry 
 columns, which originally supported the arches 
 of this gallery, were removed by the French to 
 Paris, but the greater part of them have been 
 brought back. The choir was commenced in 
 1353, and finished in 1413, and is a fine speci- 
 men of Gothic architecture. The tomb of Charle- 
 magne is in the centre of the floor, covered 
 by an unusually large flagstone, inscribed 
 with the simple words, — " Carolo Magno." 
 The marble chair upon which the deceased 
 Emperor was found sitting, and which all 
 German Emperors afterwards occupied during 
 the coronation is still to be seen in the Cathe- 
 dral, Tlie large and splendid chandelier sus- 
 pended over the tomb was presented to the 
 church by the Emperor Frederic Barbarossa. 
 Eight chapels surround the Cathedral, and are 
 connected with it by entrances through the 
 walls. In one of them (the Chapel ofthe Holy 
 Cross) there is a magnificent altar-jiiece, wiiii-li 
 consists of a crm-ilix carved in wood. 'I'lieio 
 are inaiiy rare and precious objects in (lie 
 
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 
 
 81 
 
 Cathedral, the greater pait of which were ob- 
 tained as presents from the kings and queens 
 who were crowned at Aix-la-Chapelle in former 
 times. Persons visiting the Cathedral should 
 not omit seeing the magnificent sarcophagus of 
 Parian Marble, sculptured in alto-relievo, 
 which represents the Rape of Proserpine. 
 This Cathedral possesses a vast number of relics, 
 which are divided into two classes. Those of 
 the first class are the most sacred ; those of less 
 importance constitute a second class. The 
 latter are visible at all times, but the former are 
 only shown once in seven years, when they are 
 exposed to the view of the faithful during a 
 fortnight. An exception to this rule is some- 
 times made in favour of sovereign princes, who 
 are indulged with a sight of the grand relics, as 
 a special favour, at other periods. 
 
 Town Hall, built in 1353, a remarkable 
 edifice in the old German style. On the east 
 and west it is flanked by lofty towers ; that to 
 the east is called Granus Tower. A larsre 
 staircase of flagstone, built in 1730, leads to the 
 chief entrance. On the third story is the saloon 
 in which the congress of 1748 was held, when 
 the treaty of peace, called the Peace of Aix- 
 la-Chapelle, was concluded. It contains the 
 separate portraits of the ambassadors who 
 signed the treaty. Of these, the portraits of 
 Prince Kaunitz and Lord Sandwich are con- 
 sidered to be the best. In this saloon, the 
 King of Prussia entertained the illustrious per- 
 sons staying here during the Congress in 1818. 
 The Town Hall also contains the portraits of 
 Napoleon and Josephine, painted by Bouchet 
 and Lefebre. 
 
 The Church of St. Nicholas contains three 
 noticeable pictures — one, the Descent from the 
 Cross, by Vandyke ; the two others by Diepen- 
 beck, one of the most skilful pupils of Rubens. 
 
 General Elliott, the defender of Gibraltar, 
 died at Kalkofen, near Aix. 
 
 History. — The great troubles directly 
 following Charlemagne's death had a very un- 
 favourable influence on the town. It gradually 
 lost the grandeur it had acquired under his sway. 
 In 898, it was taken and plundered by the 
 
 Normans, and was during thirty-eight years 
 exposed to the greatest disasters, until 0(iio I. 
 was there elected and crowned as King of 
 Germany. His coronation was celebrated with 
 the utmost pomp in the Cathedral. By Otho's 
 liberality the town became very flourishing. 
 His predilection for the place caused him to 
 reside there for a considerable period, when 
 leisure was left him to rest from the fatigues of 
 government. After his death a great many 
 misfortunes befel Aix. It was plundered in 
 978 by the troops of the French King Lothaire. 
 But notwithstanding this and other disasters, 
 the number of inhabitants increased with the 
 growing industry and the extension of the 
 woollen cloth manufactories, so that in 1171, 
 the town having becoine too small for the ac- 
 commodation of the people, the suburbs were 
 considerably enlarged. Aix-la-Chapelle was 
 visited with a great conflagration in August, 
 1224, by which the Cathedral was very much 
 damaged. Many magnificent palaces belonging 
 to ecclesiastical and other princes of the German 
 empire were destroyed, and the greater part of 
 the town w-as reduced to ashes. Aix-la-Chapelle 
 had scarcely recovered from this misfortune, 
 when another great fire caused an extensive de- 
 vastation. The town sustained in 1248 a long 
 and vigorous siege, commenced against it by 
 William, Count of Holland, at the head of a 
 large army, to support his claims to the empire 
 in opposition to those of Frederic II., who had 
 been excommunicated by Pope Innocent IV. 
 When the citizens had been reduced to the last 
 extremity of famine, a capitulation was agreed 
 upon, in consequence of which Count William 
 was crowned in the Cathedral. It would take 
 too much space to enumerate the thirty-six 
 German Emperors and Kings that have been 
 crowned at Aix. 
 
 In 1656 the town was a third time almost 
 destroyed by fire ; about 5000 houses, with the 
 principal public edifices, were either wholly 
 consumed or greatly damaged. INIost certainly 
 the place would never have recovered from that 
 disaster, if its springs and manufactories had not 
 provided ample means for its restoration. 
 
82 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 In 166S tlie ambassadors of France, Spain, 
 England and Holland, met at Aix-la-Chapelle, 
 and agreed on the treaty wliich bears its name. 
 
 Amongst the visitors of the season in 1717 
 was the Russian Czar, Peter I. who paid great 
 attention to the cloth and needle manufactures, 
 and, upon visiting the Cathedral, is reported to 
 have stood for a long time in silence, contem- 
 plating the tomb of Charlemagne. 
 
 Tn 1748 this city was again the theatre of 
 diplomatic negotiations, representatives of all 
 the principal States of Europe having assembled 
 here to discuss the terms of pacification. This 
 peace, known as the peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, 
 did not last long, as in 1756 the great Seven 
 Years' War broke out. By the peace of Lune- 
 ville, Aix-la-Chapelle ceased to be a free and 
 imperial town belonging to the German empire, 
 and was united to France. Under the French 
 empire, the town formed a part of the Departe- 
 ment de la Roere. It cannot bo denied, that 
 Napoleon did much for the benefit of the town ; 
 and his benefits would not be less, even if that 
 wliich is maintained by many were true, that 
 his motive for i)rotecting Aix-la-Chapelle arose 
 from a degree of vanity ('very pardonable in the 
 eyes of tlie inhabitants) of looking upon himself 
 as a modern Charlemagne, for which reason he 
 was supposed to have imitated that hero even in 
 the most trifling points. .\fter Napoleon's 
 defeat, Aix-la-Chapelle was attached to the 
 kingdom of Prussia, at the congress of Vienna 
 in 1815. Tlie most important event for the 
 city under the present government was the con- 
 gress held in it in 1818. Aix-la-Chapelle was 
 crowded with sovereigns, princes, ministers, am- 
 bassadors and their suites, including Frederic 
 William III. of Prussia, the Emperor of Russia 
 Alexander I., the Emperor of Austria Francis 
 I., the Royal Prussian Princes, the Duke of 
 Wellington and Itichelieu, the Prussian Prime 
 Minister Count Bcrnstorff, Lord Castlereagh, 
 and the Due d'Angoultnie. One of the first 
 results of this congress was, the resolution 
 
 agreed upon to remove the allied troops from 
 France, which they had occupied since the 
 battle of Waterloo. 
 
 Aix-la-Chapelle is now the seat of a regency, 
 of a provincial court of justice, a collegiate abbey, 
 and a board for the decision of commercial suits. 
 It contains a cathedral, sixteen Roman Catholic 
 churches, one evangelical combined Protestant 
 church, in uhinli every Sunday at 12 o'clock 
 divine service is performed by an English Pro- 
 testant clergyman, and a synagogue, to which 
 Sir Moses Montefiore has contributed large 
 donations. Many schools have been established 
 by the government and city authorities. Tliere 
 are also other institutions, which will be alluded 
 to in the course of this treatise. — \_Dr. Jf'etzlar.'] 
 
 The Town of Aix contains, according to 
 the last official accounts, 4,3,000 inhabitants. 
 It may be considered a very healthy place. 
 The surrounding hills sheltering it from rough 
 winds, inflammations are very rare ; and when 
 they occur, are in most cases far from violent. 
 Agues were frequent in Aix-la-Chapelle about 
 seven years ago, but now seldom occur, since 
 certain swamps lying in the vicinity of the town 
 have been drained, liy order of the government. 
 
 The small town of Boucette (in German, 
 BurtschiecT) derives its name from the Latin 
 Porcctum, which word was applied, in the 
 beginning of the tenth century to a large wood, 
 (the haunt of vast numbers of wild boars,) which 
 was then standing on the very spot now covered 
 by the town of Borcette. It is situated about 
 400 yards to the south of Aix-la-Chapelle. Its 
 origin is due to the Greek Prince Gregory, son 
 of the oriental Emperor Niccphoras Plioeas, and 
 brother-in-law to the German Emperor Otlio 
 II., who married his sister Theophania, A 
 Benedictine abbey was there founded by liim, 
 which induced many peojile to settle in its 
 vicinity. Thus a village took its rise, which, 
 partly by its springs, and partly by the industry 
 of its inhabitants, has increased so as to form at 
 this time a small town, with 5367 inhabitants. 
 
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO PHE RHINE. 
 
 83 
 
 THE TRIP TO COLOGNE — THE BANKS OP THE RHINE. 
 
 ^ HE " Road of Iron " is ready, when the Traveller has 
 
 exhausted Aachen, to bear him to Cologne and the banks 
 of the Rhine, where he will exchange steam ashore for 
 steam afloat, and continue his tour bj boat instead of rail. 
 From Aix to Cologne is but forty English miles ; and 
 what is that now-a-days? Little more than two hours' 
 journey ; but then those two hours carry the Traveller 
 into a difi^erent country. Belgium is French in its con- 
 versation and modes ; aye, even in Aix-la-Chapelle you 
 feel yourself in France, though the frontier was passed to reach it, and 
 lough the Prussian holds sway there. But when the baths are left behind, 
 the Tourist finds himself in another land. With more speed than the 
 Belgian lines display, he finds that steam is tugging him into Germany. 
 The language, the manners, and the costumes are changing. 
 
 A fine, though momentary, view of Borcette is had from the steam-carriage ; and 
 in a few minutes is seen on tlie left the Castle of Frankenburg, with its modern 
 additions to the ivy-clad ruin of Charlemagne's edifice. Just befoi'e entering the 
 Tunnel of Nirm, the village of that name is seen on the right. Camback Mill 
 
84 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 affords a station : and, on starting again, we quickly pass the busy town of Stol- 
 berg (on the right), surrounded by its coal-tield ; the village of Punipe, with its 
 iron-works (on the left) ; and then, through a curved tunnel, to Eschweiler station, 
 where the old castle is being restored. The four round towers of Nothberg next 
 attract attention, and then a deep cutting leads us to the station of Langewehr. 
 The castle and village of Merode (on the right) soon succeed ; and then Diiren, 
 where Charles the Fifth was nearly killed whilst besieging the place ; next, a three- 
 miles'-long cutting through the high lands that separate the basins of the Meuse 
 and of the Rhine. The stations of Biiir and Horm next succeed, with the castle 
 of Frenz, and the mile-long tunnel of Konigsdorf — the longest in Germany ; then 
 the stations of Konigsdorf and Mungersdorf, and then the first view of Cologne. 
 Steaming by the walls, and passing some detached forts, the Tourist soon finds 
 himself at the terminus below the city, on the left bank of the Rhine. 
 
 Let the Traveller not be disappointed with the first glance at the river as he 
 sees it at Koln. He is yet some miles below the banks which have gained for the 
 stream the fame of surpassing beauty. Those natural charms await his admiration 
 higher up, between the towns of Coblenz and Bingen. There he will find all tliat 
 the poet promises : — 
 
 " A blending of all beauties ; streams and dells, 
 Fruit, foliage, crag, wood, corn-field, mountain, vine, 
 And chiftless castles breathing stern farewells 
 From gray but leafy walls, where Ruin greenly dwells. 
 
 " And tlieie they stand, as stands a lofty mind. 
 
 Worn, but unstooping to the baser crowd, 
 
 All tenantless, save to the crannying wind. 
 
 Or holding dark communion with the cloud. 
 
 There was a day when they were young and proud. 
 
 Banners on high, and battles pass'd below ; 
 
 But they who fought are in a bloody shroud. 
 
 And those which wav'd are shredless dust ere now, 
 And the bleak battlements shall bear no future blow. 
 
 " Beneath these battlements, within tliose walls, 
 
 Power dwelt amidst her passions ; in proud state, 
 
 Each robber chief upheld his armed halls. 
 
 Doing his evil will, nor less elate 
 
 Than mightier heroes of a longer date. 
 
 What want these outlaws conquerors should have? 
 
 But History's purchas'd jiage to call them great? 
 
 A wider space, an ornamented grave? 
 Their hopes were not less warm, their souls were full as brave. 
 
THE BANKS OF THK RHINE. 
 
 85 
 
 " In their baronial feuds and single fields. 
 What deeds of prowess unrecorded died ! 
 And Love, which lent a blazon to their shields, 
 With emblems well devis'd by amorous pride, 
 Through all the mail of iron hearts would glide ; 
 But still their flame was fierceness, and drew on 
 Keen contest and destruction near allied. 
 And many a tower for some fair mischief won, 
 
 Saw the discolour'd Rhine beneath its ruin run. 
 
 " But Thou, exulting and abounding river ! 
 Making thy waves a blessing as they flow 
 Through banks whose beauty would endure for ever. 
 Could man but leave thy bright creation so. 
 Nor its fair promise from the surface mow 
 With the sharp scythe of conflict, — then to see 
 Thy valley of sweet waters, were to know 
 Earth pav'd like Heav'n; and to seem such to me. 
 
 Even now what wants thy stream? — that it should Lethe be. 
 
 " A thousand battles have assail'd thy banks, 
 But these and half their fame have pass'd away. 
 And Slaughter heap'd on high his weltering ranks : 
 Their very graves ore gone, and what are they ? 
 Thy tide wash'd down the blood of yesterday, 
 And all was stainless, and on thy clear stream 
 Glass'd with its dancing light the sunny ray ; 
 But o'er the blacken'd memory's blighting dream 
 
 Thy waves would vainly roll, all sweeping as they seem." 
 
86 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 N the history of the Rhine, we have a history of Europe. 
 A boundary of the empire of Caesar, it afterwards 
 gave passage to the barbarian hordes who over- 
 threw Imperial Rome : Charlemagne made it the 
 outpost of his power ; anon the Church gained 
 strength in the cities on its banks, and then mo- 
 nasteries and feudal strongholds rose up quickly 
 after each other. Then was it visited by the 
 forms of the Middle Ages ; orders of chivalry 
 were established at Mayence ; and knights of the 
 Teutonic order, of Rhodes, and of the Temple, appeared upon 
 the scene. The minnesinger and the troubadour praise its 
 wines, tell of its contests, and celebrate its victories. The 
 I hills, the caves, the forests, the stream, and the solid rocks 
 themselves are tenanted by superstition, by Oreads, Mer- 
 maids, Gnomes, Black Huntsmen, and demons in all imaginable fantastic shapes. 
 Meantime the towns were growing under the influence of Trade — the grimy 
 power that destroyed the feudal system. Cannon were invented at Nuremburg ; 
 the reformed religion found an advocate at Constance in John Huss even before 
 Luther fulminated his wrath against the Scarlet Mistress of the Seven Hills : 
 printing was accomplished by Gutemburg at Mayence ; and now Steam tenants 
 its waters. Caesar, Attila, Clovis, Charlemagne, Frederick Barbarossa, Rodolph 
 of Hapsbourg, the Palatine Frederick the First, Gustavus Adolphus, and Napo- 
 leon have been victorious upon its banks. What more could fate do to give 
 the stream an almost immortality of fame ? 
 
 Rising in Switzerland, in the canton of the Grisons, by three small sources, it 
 gains its name of Rhine*, and a breadth of 230 feet, at Richenau, the point of 
 confluence. It passes through the liodensee ; but, before giving its tributary 
 waters to the beautiful Lake of Constance, forms the Falls of Schaufl'hausen. 
 
 * The Steam Navigation Companies on the Rhine appear determined, if possible, to equal the 
 fastest 'lliaines steamers in point of speed. A new iron steamer, named the f^lberfcldt, previous 
 to being placed in active service, made an experimental voyage from Diisseldorf and Cologne to 
 Mayence and back, and, to the surprise of every German, performed the journey from Cologne to 
 Mayence, against the strong stream, in 13 hours and 20 minutes, and from Mayence to Cologne 
 with the stream, rather under seven hours, inclusive of stoppages. To form a comparison of what 
 the Dusseldorf Company have accomplished, whose vessels are all propelled by English engines, 
 it is necessary to a<ld, that in 1837, previous to their formation, it was held as an extraordinary feat 
 to proceed by water in two days from Cologne to INIayence ; namely, the first day from Cologne to 
 Cobleiice in 14 iiours, and the second day from Coblence to Rlayence in 13 hours, making together 
 27 hours, now performed in half the time, and in one day. 
 
THE COURSE OF THE RHINE, 
 
 87 
 
 I- TER traversing several of the cantons, it leaves Swit- 
 zerland at Basle, on its course through Germany and 
 Holland to the sea. Its chief tributaries are the 
 Neckar, Murg, Kinzig, Aar, IVTaine, Nahe, Lahn, Mo- 
 selle, Erft, Ruhr, Lippe. Its basin has a length of 
 180 leagues. The canal of the Rhine and the Rhone 
 unites these two rivers with the Saone ; whilst the Great Northern Canal unites 
 the Rhine with the Meuse and the Nethe, and thus with the Scheldt. Its waters 
 furnish capital salmon, which, when taken on their passage up the stream, are 
 called Lacfise ; when caught in autumn, on their way down the river to the sea, 
 are known as salmon. It affords also sturgeon, pike, carp, and lampreys. Its 
 enormous rafts of timber have often been described, and should be seen to be 
 appreciated. They often carry half a village of peoj^le, and are sold for many 
 
88 
 
 Tllli KIIIXK BOOK. 
 
 thousands of pounds. In summer, when the Tourist visits the river, its course 
 is comparatively calm and orderly : it is only in spring, when the snows melt 
 rapidly in vSwitzerland, tliat "Father Rhine"' is to be beheld in his might; for 
 then the waters often rise a dozen feet above their common level. The current is 
 thus greatly increased beyond its ordinary i-ate of three and a half miles an hour. 
 Its depth from Basle to Strasbourg averages ten to twelve feet ; at Maj'ence, 
 twenty-four feet ; at Dusseldorf, fifty feet. 
 
 x . L- 
 
 
THE WINES OF TUE IIHINE. 
 
 89 
 
 GERMAN C09TDMES. 
 
 THE WINES OF THE RHINE. 
 
 T would be difficult to say whether the wines or the 
 scenery of the Rhine has received most praise. 
 Songs are sung, and books written, and legends 
 told in honour of both ; and certainly both deserve 
 all that can be expressed in their favour. The 
 true German is not only eloquent when speaking 
 of the quality of the Rhine wines ; he claims for 
 them also the honours of antiquity. One is content 
 to date their history as late as the days of Probus ; 
 but others declare that Bacchus only could be the 
 parent of such admirable liquor, and point to 
 Bacharach as the resting-place of the deity when he came to taste the Rhine 
 grapes, and set an example to all future tipplers. Cyrus Redding, the historian 
 of the Grape, in the chapters of his book in which he dilates upon the Wines 
 of Germany, becomes almost as enthusiastic as a Burschen ; and as he must 
 be regarded as the best authority upon the subject, it will be well here to quote 
 what he says. 
 
90 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 " Had the etymology been treated metaphorically, to describe the vine country 
 on the Rhine, and some of its tributary rivers, it would not have been out of 
 place to call it the countiy of Bacchus. The Germans boast of four other places 
 sacred to Bacchus : Steegbach, situated on a hillock, they call the ladder of Bac- 
 chus ; Diebach, the finger (digitus) ; Handbach, or INIanersbach, the hand ; and 
 Lorch, or Laurea, the bay or laurel. Formerly it was impossible to enter a 
 German house without being offered 'large jacks of wine,' so attached were they 
 to the rites of their purple deity. The banks of these rivers are covered with 
 vineyards. The Rhine, Moselle, Neckar, and Mayn are gardens of the vine. Nor 
 have the Germans been content with cultivating the banks of rivers alone, but 
 the higher lands are planted with the greatest success. It matters very little 
 whether the territory of Treves pom'ed out its abundance in the time of the 
 Romans or of Charlemagne; the Germans have enjoyed it since the year 400 ; 
 and the Frenchman who said that the Germans had found out the perpetual 
 motion in their cups, or tall old wine glasses, was not far from the truth. The 
 German loves his glass ; and while he cultivates his vines, let the good burgher 
 of Treves swallow his Augenscheimer, his Thiergartner, Schamet, and Pitcher, 
 provided he will allow the foreigner to share a little of the superfluity of his 
 golden vintage. From Bonn to Coblentz, and from the latter city to Mayence, 
 the country is covered with vineyards. The Johannisberger of 'father' Rhine, 
 tlie Gruenhaeuser or the Braunebei'ger of the Moselle, and the Hockheimer of 
 the Mayn, each distinguish and hallow their respective rivers in the eyes of the 
 connoisseur in wine. 
 
 " Whoever has visited the noble Rhine must have felt sensible of the beauty of 
 its vineyards, covering steep and shore, interlaced with the most romantic ruins, 
 towns ancient and venerable, smiling villages, and the rapid broad German river, 
 reflecting the rich scenery on its banks. From Mentz even to Bonn the vineyards 
 of the Rhine are observed to greater advantage than any similar cidtivation in 
 other countries : Erbach, enthroned on its vines ; the Rheingau, its Johannisberg 
 on a crescent hill of red soil, adorned with cheering vegetation ; IMittelheim, 
 Geisenheim, and Rlidsheim with its strong, fine-bodied wine, the grapes from 
 which bask on their promontory of rock, in the summer sun, and imbibe its gene- 
 rous heat from dawn to setting ; then again, on the other side, Bingen, delightful, 
 sober, majestic, with its terraces of vines, topped by the chateau of Klopp. The 
 river and its riches, the corn and fruit which the vicinity produces, all remind the 
 stranger of a second Canaan. The Bingerloch, the ruins, and the never-failing 
 vines scattered among them, like verdant youth revelling amid age and decay, 
 give a picture nowhere else exhibited, uniting to the joyousness of wine the 
 sober tinge of meditative feeling. The hills back the picture, covered with feudal 
 relics or monastic remains, below Asmannhilusen to Lorch, mingled with the 
 
THE WINES OF THE RHINE. 91 
 
 purple gi-ape. Bacharach is near, the wine of which — probably the fancy of the 
 drinkers having changed, is now pronounced second-rate in quality, though, not 
 long ago, even the French celebi*ated it in their Bacchanalian songs — is still very 
 good, fashion may say what it chooses. Landscapes of greater beauty, joined to 
 the luxuriance of fruitful vine culture, can nowhere be seen ; perhaps there is 
 something to be added, for the alliance of wine, and its agreeable qualities, with 
 the noble scenery of the river. The mind will have its associations upon all sub- 
 jects. 
 
 " To the north of Coblentz the Avines are of little comparative note, though 
 Bodendorf, near Bonn, has been said to produce a Rhenish wine of the second 
 growth, thus far to the north. Coblentz is about the latitude of Plymouth, while 
 Mayence itself is neai-ly on the same parallel with the Lizard in Cornwall. Either 
 on the Rhine, or on its tributary rivers between these two places, all the most cele- 
 brated wines of Germany are grown. None of the better wines of France are 
 grown so far to the north. It is at Coblentz that the soil first becomes particu- 
 larly well adapted for the cultivation of the vine. The right bank descending is 
 most noted for its wines ; but the vineyards, in many parts, cover both banks." 
 
 The soil has, of course, much influence upon the quality of the wine ; and 
 the banks of the Rhine are remarkable for the great variety of rocks upon its 
 banks, and consequently for the variety of soils, made up partly by the decom- 
 position of those rocks, and partly by the deposits from streams, and by artificial 
 manures provided by the cultivator. " Granite decomposed," says Cyrus Redding, 
 " and quartz in favourable sites, offer good vine land, and so does sienite. Clay- 
 slate, mingled with quartz, is observed to be highly favourable with basalt. 
 Where marl, mingled with pebbles, occurs, the vines succeed best ; nearly the 
 same character, but, if any thing, still a better, may be given to dolenite. Varie- 
 gated sandstone in decomposition does not do well for the vines in dry seasons, 
 though light in its nature ; when mingled with clay, or other earths, its produce 
 is tolerable, but it gives no remarkable wine. Shell marl, where the calcareous 
 properties are most prevalent, when mixed with the clay soil, will grow tolerable 
 good vines, and the same when they are reai-ed upon a coarse limestone well 
 worked. Kiffer produces only weak wine. Schistous marl, where it occurs 
 decomposed, yields a fertile soil for the vine. When mingled with round stones 
 or sand it is very favourable, but no remarkable wine is produced from it. It is 
 strange that the Germans dress their vines Avith strong manures, which the French 
 and Portuguese pronounce to be injurious." 
 
 The botanical part of the question comes next ; and we leani that " The grapes 
 wdiich are preferred for general cultivation are the riessling, a small white species, 
 harsh in taste, but in hot seasons furnishing a remarkably excellent wine, having 
 a fine bouquet. The kleinhcrger, a productive species, which ripens easily, and 
 
92 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 a small Orleans variety. Tlie produce of all the vineyards it is impossible to 
 ascertain. The circle of Coblentz contains nearly seventeen thousand Prussian 
 acres, each of which is calculated to yield wine of about fifteen pounds sterling 
 annually in value. The circle of Treves, containing twenty-three hundred acres, 
 gives an annual product of thirty-nine pounds sterling each acre. In "Wirtemberg, 
 the product of the kingdom, or of 61,514 acres, has been valued at 3,990,831 
 florins. The true Hockheimer is groAvn in a little spot of about eight acres to the 
 eastward of Mentz, between that place and F'rankfort. Each acre contains four 
 thousand plants. The produce, in a tolerable year, is twelve large casks, which 
 sell for about one hundi-ed and fifty pounds each. Worms was formerly reported 
 to grow a hundred and fifty fudders within the territories of the city, ' sweeter 
 than virgin's milk (liebfrauen milch).' " 
 
 The glorious season of fruition — the Vintage — is the time for the visit of 
 a wine-lover to the Rhine. " The vintage," continues our Bacchanalian authority, 
 " does not take place until the grapes are perfectly mature ; they are then carefully 
 gathered, the bad fruit picked out, and, with the stalks, put aside. The wine of 
 the pressings is separated, most vom ersten drucJt, vom nackdruck. The more 
 celebrated of these wines are all fermented in casks ; and then, after being repeat- 
 edly racked, suffered to remain for years in large fudders * to acquire perfection 
 by time. These huge casks contain each about three hundred and fifty tuns. The 
 wines mellow best in large vessels ; hence the celebrated Heidelberg tun, thirty- 
 one feet long by twenty-one high, and holding one hundred and fifty fudders, or 
 six hundred hogsheads; the second of these was built at Heidelberg in 1663. 
 That which preceded it lield but one hundred and thirty-two fudders. This tun 
 is decorated with all kinds of fantastical ornaments. Tiibingen, Griiuingen, and 
 Konigstein (the last 3709 hogsheads), could all boast of their enormous tuns, in 
 which the white wines of the country were thought to mellow better than in casks 
 of less dimensions. These tuns were once kept carefully filled. The Germans 
 always had the reputation of being good drinkers, and of taking care of the ' liquor 
 they loved.' Misson says, in his Travels, that he formerly saw at Nuremberg the 
 public cellar, two hundred and fifty paces long, and containing twenty thousand 
 ahms of wine." 
 
 And now for the peculiarities of the Rhine tvines. " The German are a 
 distinct class in character from all other wines. They are generous, dry, finely 
 flavoured, and endure age beyond example. They average about 12"08 per cent, 
 of alcohol. They have been supposed to turn acid sooner than other wines, though 
 the reverse is a remarkable fact. On this subject a recent writer observes, Avitii 
 respect to Moselle — and the same will hold good with other wines of IJhenish 
 
 * A common fuder, or luckier, contains only two hundred and fifty gallons. 
 
THE WINES OF THE RHINE. _ 93 
 
 character — that 'the country which borders on the Moselle produces abundance 
 of grapes, and some of the wines have an agreeable flavour, especially the vintage 
 of Brauneberg. This highly-flavoured wine has, within the last seven years, 
 become a fashionable beverage at the first tables in London, and when iced in 
 summer, nothing can be more grateful. Some of it has the flavour of the Fron- 
 tignan grape, without its sweetness. This wine has a singular quality ; it is difli- 
 cult to make it into vinegar. The author accidentally discovered this property 
 by putting a few bottles into a greenhouse, and afterwards into his cellar, for the 
 purpose of using it as vinegar ; but, the following spring, he was surprised to find 
 that no acetous fermentation had taken place. It has been generally supposed in 
 England, that the wines of the Rhine and Moselle are more acid than the white 
 wines of France ; but, if the above experiment may be any criterion of the quali- 
 ties of the former, it would prove that they are less acid than Sauterne, Barsac, 
 and the Graves ; for it is well known that it is necessary to sulphur the casks of 
 these wines to prevent the acetous fermentation taking place. Acids are supposed 
 to generate gout, and, in England, Rhine wines are on this account forbidden to 
 gouty subjects ; yet the gout is a disease rarely known on the banks of the Rhine, 
 where hardly any other wine is drank.' " And be it never forgotten, that the 
 German wines are free from that saturation of brandy which is the high and 
 mighty fault, as it must ever be a grand dietetic objection, to the wines of 
 France. 
 
 The names and birth-places of the different German 2ci?ies is interesting. 
 " The ordinary wines are not worthy of note. The Liebfrauenmilch, already men- 
 tioned, is a well-bodied wine, groAvn at Worms, and generally fetches a good price. 
 The same may be said of the wines of Koesterick, near Mayence ; and those from 
 Mount Scharlachberg are equally full-bodied and well-flavoured. Nierstein, 
 Oppenheim, Laubenheim, and Gaubischeim are considered to yield first growths, 
 but that of Deidesheim is held to be the best ; the last of 1 825 sells for twelve 
 pounds sterling the ahm, of thirty gallons, in the present year. The prices vary 
 much, and depend in a great degree upon the age of the wine. New wine may 
 be had from fifteen-pence the niaas * to four and seven-pence. Very aged wine 
 from eight to ten up to eighteen shillings the bottle. 
 
 " The river Mayn runs up to Frankfort close to Mayence ; and on its banks the 
 little town of Hockheim, once the property of General Kellerman, stands upon an 
 elevated spot of ground, in the full blaze of the sun. From Hockheim is derived 
 the name of Hock, too generally applied in England to all German wines. No 
 trees are seen to obstruct the genial fire from the sky, which the Germans deem 
 so needful to render their vintages propitious. The town stands in the midst of 
 
 * A little more than two quarts. 
 
94 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 vineyartl.s. That wliicli produces the Hockheimer of the first growth is about 
 eight acres in extent, and situated on a spot well sheltered from the nortli winds, 
 on a little hill behind the deanery. The wine of 1766 and 1775 now fetches 
 forty-two and fifty pounds the ahm. The other growths of this wine come from 
 the surrounding vineyards. The whole eastern bank of the Rhine to Lorich, 
 called the Klieingau, has been remarkable centuries past for its wines. It was 
 once the jiroperty of the Church. The entire district is one delicious vine-garden. 
 In this favoured spot grows the castle, or Schloss-Johannisberger, once the 
 property of the Church, and also of the Prince of Orange. , Johannisberg is a 
 town, with its castle (schloss), on the right bank of the Rhine below Mentz. 
 The Johannisbei-ger takes the lead in the wines of the Rhine. The vines are 
 grown over the vaults of the castle, and were very near being destroyed by 
 General Hoche. The quantity is not large. The price of the vintage of 1811 is 
 about thirty-six pounds the ahm, of thirty gallons. That of 1779 sells for 
 seventy-five in the present year. The vineyard is now the pi'ojierty of Prince 
 Metternich. The other growths near the same vineyard are excellent. The 
 Johannisberger of Messieurs Mumm and Giesler of Cologne and Johannisberg, 
 their own growth of 1822, brings, in 1833, from twenty-five to sixty pounds the 
 ahm. 
 
 "Riidesheim produces wines of the first Rhine growths; the ahm of 1811 is 
 fifty-five pounds ; but the Steinbergcr, belonging to the Duke of Nassau, takes 
 rank after the Schloss-Johannisberger among these -wines. It has the greatest 
 strength, and yet is one of the most delicate, and even sweetly flavoured. That 
 called the ' Cabinet,' from the vintage of 1811, brings seventy pounds sterling 
 the ahm at present, or nearly eleven shillings the bottle. The quantity made 
 is small, of the first growth. Graefenberg, whicli Avas once the property of 
 the Church, produces very choice wine, which carries a price equal to the 
 Riidesheim. 
 
 "Marcobrunner is an excellent wine, of a fine flavour, especially when the 
 vintage has taken place in a warm year. The vineyards of Roth and Konigsbach 
 grow excellent wines. The wine of Bacharach was formerly celebrated, as before 
 mentioned, but time produces revolutions in the history of wines, as well as in 
 that of empires. Notwithstanding the quality of endurance many of the second- 
 rate growths possess, and a freedom from acidity ecpial to those which hold the 
 first place, they are by no means so well known as they t)ught to be. The oldest 
 wine, which is commonly offered to the purchaser, is tliat of 1748, a year when 
 tlie season was exceedingly ])ropitious to the vintage. Older wines may be met 
 with, but less freipiently. The excellence of the wine in any ])articular year 
 always depends more upon the warmth of the season than upon any other cause, 
 and the high price of the wine in corresponding years rates accordingly. The 
 
THE WINES OF THE RHINE. 95 
 
 Germans say, the wines of the best body are made on the higher lands, and the 
 worst on the lower ; the last i-equiring the longest keeping, to render them mellow 
 for drinking. The wines of 1783 bear a very high character. There is something 
 nnaccountable in the extraordinary durability of wines grown so far to the North, 
 when the slightest increase of warmth in a season causes such a difference in the 
 quality of the wine. While strong southern wines suffer from age after a certain 
 period of years in bottle, and begin to deteriorate sensibly, the Rhine wines 
 seem possessed of inextinguishable vitality, and set the greater part of rivalry in 
 keeping at defiance. It is generally found that wines with the lesser proportion 
 of alcohol change sooner than those which are strong. The Rhenish wines 
 averaging so little in spirit will endure longer, and continue to improve by age 
 as much as the more potent wines of the South, with double their alcoholic 
 strength. The best vintages were 1748, 1766, 1779, 1783, 1800, 1802, and 1811. 
 The Steinwein of 1748, brought in 1832 seventy pounds the ahm. This may 
 serve to show how much these wines gain by age. 
 
 " On the whole the wines of Bischeim, Asmannhaiisen, and Laubenheim, are 
 very pleasant wines ; those of the most strength are Marcobrunner, Rlidesheimer, 
 and Niersteiner, while those of Johannisberg, Geissenheim, and Hockheim, give 
 the most perfect^delicacy and aroma. The Germans themselves say, ' Rhein-ivein, 
 fein wein ; Neckerioein, lecher xoein ; Franken-wein, tranken ivein ; Mosel-tcein, 
 nnnosel toein,' ' Rhine wine is good ; Neckar pleasant ; Frankfort bad ; Moselle 
 
 innocent.' 
 
 "The red wines of the Rhine are not of extraordinary quality. The Asmanns- 
 haiiser is the best, and resembles some of the growths of France. Near Lintz, at 
 Neuwied, a good wine, called Blischert, is made. Keinigsbach, on the left bank 
 of the Rhine, Altenahr, Rech, and Kesseling, yield ordinary red growths. 
 
 " The Moselle wines are secondary to those of the Rhine and Mayn. The most 
 celebrated is the Brauneberger. The varieties grown near Treves are numerous. 
 A Dutch merchant is said to have paid the Abbey of Maximinus for a variety 
 called Gruenhaiiser, in 1793, no less than eleven hundi-ed and forty-four florins 
 for two hundred and ninety English gallons in the vat. This wine was formerly 
 styled the ' Nectar of the Moselle.' It made men cheerful when drank in a 
 quantity, and did good the next day, leaving the bosom and head without disorder, 
 — such is a German's character of it, that of the jurist Hontheim. These wines 
 are light, with a good flavour, and of late have become favourites in England. 
 They will not keep so long as the Rhine wines, but they are abundant and 
 wholesome. Near Treves are grown the wines of Brauneberg, "Wehlen, Graach, 
 Zeltingen, and Piesport. The wines of Riusport and Becherbach are considered 
 of secondary rank. The wines of Cusel and Yaldrach, near Treves, are thought 
 to be possessed of diuretic properties, and even to cure the gravel. In about five 
 
96 
 
 TnE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 years these wines reach the utmost point of perfection for drinking. They will 
 not keep more than ten or twelve in prime condition. 
 
 " The wines called ' wines of the Ahr' resemble those of the Moselle, except 
 that they will keep longer. 
 
 "The ' wines of the Neckar' are made from the best French, Hungarian, and 
 even Cyprus vines. The most celebrated are those of Bessingheim. They are 
 of a light red colour, not deep, and of tolerable flavour and bouquet. 
 
 "Wisbaden grows some good wines at Schierstein, and Epstein, near Frankfort. 
 The best wines of Baden are produced in the seigniory of Badenweiler, near 
 Fribourg. At Heidelberg, the great tun used to be filled with the wine of that 
 neighbourhood, boasted to be a hundred and twenty years old, but it gave the 
 wine no advantage over other Neckar growths. Some good wines are produced 
 near Baden. The red wines of "Wangen are much esteemed in the country of 
 Bavaria, but they are very ordinary. Wurtzberg grows the Stein and Liesten 
 wines. The first is produced upon a mountain so called, sold very dear, and 
 called ' wine of the Holy Spirit ' by the Hospital of Wurtzberg, to Avliora it 
 belongs. The Liesten wines are produced upon Mount St. Nicolas. Straw wines 
 are made in Franconia. A vin de liqueur, called Calmus, like the sweet wines 
 of Hungary, is made in the territory of Frankfort, at Aschaffenbourg. The best 
 vineyards are those of Bischofsheim. Some wines are made in Saxony, but they 
 are of little worth. Meissen, near Dresden, and Guben, produce the best. 
 Naumberg makes some small wines, like the inferior Burgundies." — [_A History 
 a7id Description of Modern Wines. By Cyrtis Redding. '\ 
 
 OltH&MRKTICD WINB OOP ANI> DlSn FROM AN 
 nNORATINO BY HANS DOnOUAIR, A. D. 1517. 
 
THE ARCHITECT OF COLOGNE. 
 
 97 
 
 COi-O'jN Jl 
 
 THE LEGENDS OF COLOGNE —THE CARNIVAL. 
 
 o Stranger ever enters Cologne without going to see the Cathedral, ^ind 
 nobody ever looks upon that fragment of the mightiest Gothic design 
 in Christendom without doing three things — without regretting that 
 it never was completed, without asking who was the architect, or 
 without listening to the Legend of the Builder. 
 
 Mighty was the Archbishop Conrad de Hochsteden, for he was lord over the 
 chief city of the Rhine — the city of Cologne : but his thoughts were troubled, and 
 his heart was heavy, for though his churches were rich beyond compare in relics, 
 yet other towns not half so large or powerful as his had cathedrals whose fame 
 extended over Europe, and whose beauty brought pilgrims to their shrine, profit to 
 the ecclesiastics, and business to the townspeople. After many sleepless nights, 
 therefore, he determined to add to his city the only thing wanting to complete it, 
 and sending for the most famous architect of the time, he commissioned him to 
 complete the plan for a Cathedral of Cologne. 
 
 Now the architect was a clever man, but he was more vain than clever. He 
 had a dreamy notion of magnificence, which he desired to achieve without a clear 
 
98 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 conception of liow he was to do it, or without tlic will to make the necessary 
 liacrifices of labour, care, and perseverance. He received the commission with 
 great gladness, and gloated for some days upon the fame which would be his as 
 the builder of the structure which the Archbishop desired ; but after this vision 
 of glory, when he took his crayons to sketch out the design, he was thrown into 
 the deepest despondency. He drew and drew, and added, and erased, and cor- 
 rected, and began again, but still did not succeed. Not a plan could he complete. 
 Some were too mean, others too extravagant, and others, when done and examined, 
 were found to be good, but not original. Efforts of memory instead of imagina- 
 tion, their points of excellence were discovered to be copies — a tower from one, a 
 spire from another, an aisle from a third, and an altar from a fourth, and one 
 after another they were cast aside as imperfect and useless, until the draughtsman, 
 more than half crazy, felt inclined to end his troubles and perplexities by a 
 plunge into the Rhine. 
 
 In this mood of more than half despair he wandered down to the river's edge, 
 and sitting himself upon a stone began to draw in the sand with a measuring-rod, 
 which served as a walking-stick, the outlines of various parts of a church. 
 Ground-plans, towers, finials, brackets, windows, columns, appeared one after 
 another, traced by the point of his wand, but all, one after another, were erased as 
 unequal and insufficient for the purpose, and unworthy to form a part of the 
 design for a Cathedral of Cologne. Turning round, the architect was aware that 
 another person was beside him, and with surprise the disappointed draughts- 
 man saw that the stranger was also busily inventing a design. Eajjidly on the 
 sand he sketched tlie details of a most magnificent building, its towers rising 
 to the clouds, its long aisles and lofty choir stretching away before the eye 
 of the gazer until he mentally confessed it was indeed a temple worthy of the 
 Most High. The windows were enriched by tracery, such as artist never had 
 before conceived, and the lofty columns reared their tall length towards a roof 
 which seemed to claim kindred with the clouds, and to equal the tirmament 
 in expanse and beauty. But each line of this long-sought plan vanished the 
 moment it was seen, and with a complete conviction of its excellence, when it was 
 gone not a portion of it could the architect remember. 
 
 " Your sketch is excellent," said lie to the unknown : " it is what I have thought 
 and dreamed of — what I have sought for and wislied for, and have not been able 
 to find. Give it to me on paper, and I will pay you twenty gold pieces." 
 
 " Twenty pieces ! ha! ha! twenty gold pieces! " laughed the stranger. "Look 
 here!" and from a doublet that did not seem big enough to hold half the money, 
 •he drew forth a purse that certainly hold a thousand. 
 
 The night liad closed in, and the architect was desperate. " If money cannot 
 tempt you, fear shall force you ;" and, springing towards the stranger, he plucked 
 
THE ARCHITKCT OF COLOGNK. ^0 
 
 a dagger from his girdle, and held its point close to the breast of the mysterious 
 draughtsman, in the attitude to strike. In a moment his wrists were pinioned 
 as with the grasp of a vice, and squeezed until he dropped his weapon, and 
 shrieked in agony. Falling in the sands, he writhed like an eel upon the 
 fisherman's hook ; but plunged and struggled in vain. When nearly fainting, he 
 felt himself thrown helpless upon the very brink of the stream. 
 
 " There ! revive, and be reasonable. Leai-n that gold and steel have no power 
 over me. You want my cathedral, for it would bring you honour, fame, and 
 profit ; and you can have it if you choose." 
 
 "How? — tell me how?" 
 
 " By signing this parchment with your blood." 
 
 " Avaunt, fiend ! " shrieked the architect ; " in the name of tlie Saviour I bid 
 thee begone." And so saying, he made the sign of the Cross ; and the Evil One 
 (for it was he) was forced to vanish before the holy symbol. He made time, how- 
 ever, to mutter, " You'll come for the plan at midnight to-morrow." 
 
 The artist staggered home, half dead with contending passions ; and muttering, 
 " Sell my soul," " to-morrow at midnight," " honour and fame," and other words 
 which told the inward struggle going forward in his soul. When he i-eached his 
 lodgings, he met the only servant he had, going out wrapped in her cloak. 
 
 " And where are you going so late?" said her surprised mastei*. 
 
 " To a mass for a soul in purgatory," was the reply. 
 
 " Oh, horror ! horror ! no mass will avail me. To everlasting torments shall I 
 be doomed ;" and, hurrying to his room, he cast himself down in tears of remorse, 
 irresolution, and despair. In this state his old housekeeper discovered him, on 
 her return from her holy errand ; and, her soul being full of charity and kindly 
 religion, she begged to know what had caused such grief; and spoke of patience 
 in suffering, and pardon by repentance. Her words fell upon the disordered ear 
 of the architect with a heavenly comfort ; and he told her what had passed. 
 
 "Mercy me!" was her exclamation, "Tempted by the fiend himself! — so 
 strongly, too ! " and so saying, she left the chamber without another word, and 
 hurried off to her confessor. 
 
 Now the confessor of Dame Elfrida was the friend of the abbot, and the abbot 
 was the constant counsellor of the archbishop, and so soon as the housekeeper 
 spoke of the wonderful plan, he told her he would soon see her master, and went 
 at once to his superior. This dignitary immediately pictured to himself the 
 hosts of pilgrims that would seek a cathedral built with skill from such wonderful 
 sketches, and (hoping himself one day to be archbishop) he hurried off to the 
 bewildered architect. 
 
 He found him still in bed, and listened with surprise to the glowing account of 
 the demon's plan. 
 
100 
 
 THE UHINE BOOK. 
 
 "And would it be equal to all this? " 
 
 " It would." 
 
 "Could you build it?" 
 
 " I could." 
 
 "Would not pilgrims come to worship in such a cathedral ?" 
 
 "By thousands." 
 
 " Listen, my sou ! Go at midnight to the appointed spot ; take this I'elic 
 with you ; " and so saying the abbot gave him a holy morsel of one of the 
 Eleven Thousand A^'irgins. " Agree to the terms for the design you have so long 
 desired, and when you have got it, and the Evil One presents the parchment for 
 your signature, show this saci-ed bone." 
 
 After long pondering, the priest's advice was taken ; and in the gloom of night 
 the architect was seen tremblingly hurrying to the place of meeting. True to his 
 time, the fiend was there, and with a smile complimented the artist on his punctu- 
 ality. Drawing from his doublet two parchments, he opened one on which was 
 traced the outlines of the cathedral, and then another written in some mysterious 
 character, and having a yellow brimstony space left for a signature. 
 
 " Let me examine what I am to pay so dearly for." 
 
 " Most certainly," said the demon with a smile, and a bow that would bave 
 done honour to the court of the Emperor. 
 
 Pressing it with one hand to his breast, the architect with the other held up 
 the holy thumb-bone, and exclaimed, " Avaunt, tiend I In the name of the 
 Father, and the Son, and the Holy Virgins of Cologne, I bid thee, Satan, at 
 defiance ; " and he described the sign of the Cross directly against the Devil's 
 face. 
 
 In an instant the smile and the graceful civility were gone. With a hideous grin 
 he approached the sacred miracle as though he would have strangled the possessor ; 
 and yelling with a sound that woke half the sleepers in Cologne, he skipped 
 round and round the artist. Still, however, the plan was held tightly with one 
 hand, and the relic held forward like a swordsman's rapier with the other. As 
 the fiend turned, so turned the architect ; until, bethinking himself that another 
 prayer Avould help him, he called loudly on St. Ursula. The demon could stand 
 the fight no longer ; the chief of the Eleven Thousand Virgins was too much 
 for him. 
 
 " None but a Confessor could have told you how to cheat me," he shrieked in 
 a most cynical voice : " but I will be revenged. You have a more wonderful 
 and perfect design than ever entered the brain of man. You want fame — the 
 priest wants a chui-ch and pilgrims. Listen ! That catukuual shall ni:vek 
 
 BK FINISHED, AND YOUU NAME SHAI.L BE FORGOTTEN ! " 
 
 As the dreadful words broke ujion his ear the cloak of the Tempter streUlicd 
 
THE PPAFFEN TIIOR. ,""• ■^ o t^ >' \ I'l '" ■ 110,1, 
 
 out into huge black wings, which were flapped over the spot like two dark 
 thunder-clouds, and with such violence that the winds were raised from their 
 slumber, and a storm rose upon the waters of the Rhine. Hurrying homewards, 
 the relic raised at arm's length over his head, he reached the abbot's house in 
 safety. But the ominous sentence still rang in his ears — unfinished and 
 
 UNICNOWN. 
 
 Days, months, years, passed by, and the cathedral, commenced with vigour, was 
 growing into form. The architect had long before determined that an inscription 
 should be engraved upon a plate of brass shaped like a cross, and be fastened 
 upon the front of the first tower that reached a good elevation. His vanity 
 already anticipated a triumph over the Fiend whom he had defrauded. He was 
 author of a building which the Avorld could not equal, and in the pride of his 
 heart defied all evil chances to deprive him of fame. Going to the top of the build- 
 ing to see where his name should be placed, he looked over the edge of the 
 building, to decide if it was lofty enough to deserve the honour of the inscription, 
 when the workmen were aware of a black cloud which suddenly enveloped them, 
 and burst in thunder and hail. Looking round when the cloud passed away, i/ieir 
 master was gone ! and one of them declared, that amidst the noise of the explosion 
 he heard a wail of agony which seemed to say " unfinished and forgotten." 
 
 When they descended the tower the body of the architect lay crushed upon the 
 pavement. The Traveller beholds the building as it Avas on the morning when he 
 fell there, and thousands have since then sought in vain to learn the name of The 
 Architect of Cologne. 
 
 ^j^^HEN the Archbishop Conrad de Hochsteden, the founder of the Cathe- 
 dral, had been gathered to his fathers, Engelbrecht of Falkenbourg 
 reigned over Cologne in his stead ; and a fearful tyrant he became. 
 As was the case with the spiritual lords who ruled over Liege, the 
 mitre of the Archbishop became a rod of iron to the citizens, until at length they 
 were goaded to open rebellion. In their contests for liberty they Avere led by 
 Hermann Grynn, a townsman who had put aside the peaceful avocations of trade 
 to do battle in the good cause of his native city, and of the privileges which his 
 fathers had purchased, not only with their gold, but with their blood. 
 
 After numerous contests between the burghers and their oppressors, the cause of 
 the many was triumphant, and the Archbishop was glad to agree to terms which 
 he before spurned. But the truce he sought was hollow and unfaithful, and he 
 
10? 
 
 THK RniNE BOOK. 
 
 said openly that if Hermann Grynn were removed, he could then reclaim with 
 safety the privileges he had surrendered to the townsmen. 
 
 This treacherous speech was greedily drunk up l^y two priests, who deter- 
 mined to work their own welfare by the downfal of the citizen patriot. INIaking 
 acquaintance with Hermann, whose honest nature suspected no treachery, they 
 wormed themselves into his confidence, and sought an oppoi'tunity of inviting him 
 to the Cathedral, to see its hidden beauties and great store of riches. Leading him 
 from chapel to cloister, and through chamber after chamber, they came at length 
 to a door, which they said contained the richest sight of all ; and one of them, 
 unlocking the door, invited the citizen to enter. No sooner had he crossed the 
 threshold than the thick portal was closed suddenly upon him, and at the same 
 moment he heard the roar of some wild animal, and saw fixed upon him two fierce 
 eye-balls glowing with hunger and savage rage. 
 
 Hermann Grynn was a man for emergencies. Rapidly twisting his cloak 
 round liis left arm, and drawing his short sword, he prepared for the attack ; 
 nor had he long to wait. With a growl of triumph a huge animal sprang upon 
 him with open jaws; but with admirable coolness the hero received his assailant 
 upon the clothed arm, and whilst the brute ground its teeth into the cloak, he 
 thrust his sword into its heart. Searching round the chamber he was aware of a 
 window concealed by a sliutter, and opening this he looked forth into the streets, 
 where a great crowd was collected around a priest, who went along telling some 
 tale which seemed to move the people to deep grief. As the tlirong drew nearer 
 he listened eagerly, and heard with surprise " how the good burgess Hermann 
 Grynn, the friend of the people, and the well beloved ally of the Church, had 
 without advice sought a chamber where a lion was in durance, and had fallen a 
 sacrifice to his unhappy curiosity." Burning Avith rage and a determination to 
 expose the treachery of the priests, he Avaitod till the crowd came beneath the 
 window from which he looked; and then, dashing the glass into a thousand pieces, 
 he attracted attention to the spot, and leaning half out of the opening, displayed 
 his well-known cap in one haiid, and his bloody sword in the other. He was 
 almost too high to be heard, but the faint echo of his war-cry was enough to con- 
 vince the people of his identity, and with one voice they sliouted " To the rescue !" 
 Forcing their way into the Cathedral, they quickly released their leader, and 
 learning from him the story of cruel treachery, the two priests were ferreted from 
 their hiding-places, and hanged by the neck in the room over the body of the dead 
 lion. To this day the portal they slammed on Hermann Grynn is known as the 
 rfdjfcti Thar — tlie Priest's door — whilst over the gate of tlie venerable town- 
 hall of Cologne, TiiK Tkavklleu may yet see, graven in stone, the figlit of the 
 citizen-patriot with the hungry lion of the Cathedral. 
 
ST. URSULA AND THE ELEVEN THOUSAND VmGlNS. 
 
 103 
 
 Such are two of the traditions of the Cathedral ; but that buihiinnj has not the 
 monopoly of such tales, for scarcely a church in Cologne but has its my.-tery, its 
 marvellous saintly story, or its legend. One of these fragments of romance that 
 have lived through more than a thousand years has for its heroine an English 
 Royal lady. 
 
 ^t. Ursula mti tf)c CBIcben ^jbousanti Firgins. 
 
 UST two centuries after the birth of Christ, Vionest was king 
 of Britain. Happy in his realm, his subjects were prosper- 
 ous and contented, but care was in the heai't of the monarch, 
 for he was childless. At length his consort Daria bore 
 him a daughter, who as she grew up in years increased in 
 holiness, until all men regarded her as a saint, and she, de- 
 voting herself to a religious life, refused all offers of marriage, 
 to the great grief of her parents, who were again troubled 
 by the thought that their dynasty would fail for want of an 
 heir. Charmed with the rumour of her virtues, a German prince, Agrippus, 
 asked her as a wife for his son, but the suit was declined by the maiden until 
 an angel appeared to her in a dream, and said that the nuptials ought to 
 take place. In obedience to this heavenly mentor, St. Ursula no longer urged 
 her former scruples, and her father hastened to make preparations of suitable mag- 
 nificence for her departure to the ^Rhine, on whose banks her future home was 
 to be. Eleven thousand virgins were selected from the noblest families of Britain 
 to accompany their princess, who, marshalling them on the sea-shoi"e, bade them 
 sing a hymn to the Most High, and dismiss all fears of the ocean, for she had been 
 gifted with a divine knowledge of navigation, and would guide them safely on 
 their way. Accordingly St. Ursula dismissed all the seamen, and standing on 
 the deck of the principal vessel, she gave orders to her Eleven Thousand Maiden 
 Followers, who, under the influence of inspiration, flitted over the ships dressed 
 in virgin white, now tending the sails, noAV fixing the ropes, now guiding the helm, 
 imtil they reached the mouth of the Rhine, up which they sailed in saintly procession 
 to Cologne. Here they were received with great honours by the Roman Governor 
 of the place ; but soon they left the city, to ascend the stream to Basle on their 
 way to Rome, to Avhich holy city St. Ursula had determined upon making a pil- 
 grimage. Wherever on their journey they met the ofiicers of state they were 
 received as befitted their heavenly mission, and from Basle were accompanied by 
 Pantulus, who was afterwards canonised, and whose portrait is to be seen in the 
 church of St. Ursula. Once at Rome the Pope himself, Cyi'iacus, was so stricken 
 
104 Tin: RIIINK BOOK. 
 
 by their devoted piety, tlmt, after praying with them at the tombs of the apostles, 
 he determined on abdicating tlie pontifical oflice, to accompany them on their return 
 down tlie Kliine to Cologne. 
 
 At Mayence they were joined by Prince Coman, the son of Agrippus, who for 
 love of his betrothed at once forsook the errors of the pagan faith and was 
 baptized. The Eleven Thousand Virgins with their sainted leader, her husband, 
 and Pope Cyriacus, passed rapidly to Cologne, where, however, they were not 
 long destined to live in peace. A horde of barbarians from the North invaded 
 the place, and having gained possession of the city, they slew with horrible tortures i 
 the vii-gin retinue of St. Ursula, the venerable Pope, the saint herself, and her 
 spouse Coman. Some were nailed living to the cross ; some were burned ; others 
 stoned ; but the most refined cruelties were reserved for the most distinguished 
 victims. Look on the walls of the Church of St. Ursula, and you will behold the 
 sufferings of the young martyr and of her youthful husband. Her chapel yet 
 contains her effigy with a dove at her feet — fit emblem of her purity and loving 
 faith and kindness ; whilst the devout may, in the same church, behold the 
 religiously- preserved bones of the Eleven Thousand Virgins. 
 
 ^c^^^fe OLOGNE has much to boast of besides its legends. 
 
 The skulls of the Three Kings still grin from under their 
 crowns in the Cathedral, as they did when Frederick Barbarossa 
 stormed Milan and brought these relics of the Three Magi to 
 this city. Before the time of the French Revolution, these 
 ancient skulls were siu'rounded by more gold and precious 
 stones than the head of any living king in Christendom ; but during those 
 troublous days the riches faded rapidly away. At present the jewels of their 
 shrine are valued at six millloiis of francs ! The Cathedral also holds under its 
 pavement tlie heart of Maria de Medicis, who in her fallen fortunes sought a 
 refuge in Cologne, and there died in the house (10. Sternen Gasse) where Kubens 
 was born. An ancient painting is also pointed out as the picture of the building, 
 the Domhild. Its age rather than its beauty forms its great claim to notice. It 
 displays the patron saints of Cologne: — the Three Magi Kings adoring the 
 Saviour; St. Ursula and her Virgin Followers; and St. Gereon. 
 
 In the church of St, Peter is a picture presented to it by Rubens himself, 
 in memory of the fact that at its altar he was baptized. The subject is the Cruci- 
 fixion of the Patron Saint of the Church, and it attracted the criticism of Sir 
 Joshua Reynolds, who said: — "It was painted a little time before Rubens's death. 
 The body and head of the Saint are the only good parts in this picture, which is 
 finely (•()li)iir('<l, and well drawn; but the figure bends too suddenly from the 
 
THE CHURCHES OF COLOGNE. 
 
 105 
 
 THE BIRTH-PI.ACE OF RCTBENS. 
 
 thighs, which are ill drawn, or rather in a 
 bad taste of drawing ; as is likewise his 
 arm, which has a short interrupted outline. 
 The action of the malefactors has not that 
 energy Avhich he usually gave to his figures. 
 Rubens, in his letters to Gildorp, expresses 
 his own approbation of this picture, which 
 he says was the best he ever painted; he 
 likewise expresses his content and happi- 
 ness in the subject, as being picturesque ; 
 this is likewise natural to such a mind 
 as that of Rubens, who was perhaps too 
 much looking about him for the picturesque, 
 or something uncommon. A man with his 
 head downwards is certainly a more ex- 
 traordinary object than in its natural place. Many parts of this pictui-e are so 
 feebly drawn, and with so tame a pencil, that I cannot help suspecting that 
 Rubens died before he had completed it, and that it was finished by some of his 
 scholars. " Wilkie also visited this church, and gave his modicum of praise to 
 this painting. 
 
 Santa Maria in Capitolo stands on the spot where stood the Capitol of the 
 Roman masters of the town. St. Pantaleon claims to be the most ancient church 
 in the city, dating as far back as A. d. 980, when it was reared from the stones of 
 the Roman bridge which before that time stretched across to Deutz : the Chapel 
 of the Minorites contains the tomb of Duns Scotus, and a horrible tale is told of 
 his entombment alive, of his revival in his coffin, his struggle to escape, and his 
 body found afterwards at the closed door of the sepulchre, with the hand eaten off 
 by himself ere he died of hunger, St. Gereo7i's displays the bones of the legion 
 of Theban martyrs ; whilst many other churches which, if existing alone, might be 
 the boast of any town, are passed over from the riches of Cologne in Gothic archi- 
 tecture. Indeed the city still deserves its old cognomen of the Rome of the 
 North ; and should the world be favoured with thirty years more peace, there is 
 little doubt that the Cathedral, now in process of repair and increase, will escape 
 from the ban recounted in the Legend, and, rising to completion, be the Gothic 
 architectural glory of Northern Europe. True to its old Romish cognomen, the 
 city of Cologne, like Rome itself, still maintains its Carnival, which a traveller who 
 witnessed it in the spring of 1845 describes in the ^^ Neto Monthly Magazine'''' 
 of IMi*. Colburn, — a description here condensed, since it conveys a faithful 
 picture of a festival enjoyed by the Germans with more gusto than would be 
 
 expected from their usually phlegmatic character. 
 
1()6 TiiK nniNK r.ooK. 
 
 ^bc Carni'faal at Cologne. 
 
 On the nd of February was celcbrntcd the aniuial Carnival of Colojjnc, presenting a scene 
 tliroiigliout all the principal streets, singularly at variance with the habitual grave, quiet and 
 business-like atmosphere which pervades that old city. The Carnival lasts three days, but the 
 grand day was the one which we describe. 
 
 The weather (which had been bad in the morning) began to clear up a little over head, the 
 streets assumed a less dingy appearance, a number of maskers and fancy dresses issued forth, the 
 windows were rapidly filling with ladies and children, up to the top stories, and from the roofs of 
 opposite houses cords were extended across the streets, upon which were hung large banners, 
 flags, devices of all colours, and jack-pudding figures of the size of life, all waving and swinging 
 together over the crowds that passed below. All the shop-windows had the shutters up, except a 
 few that sold masks. We followed the stream through several streets, all decorated over head in 
 the same manner, and the windows filled with spectators, many of whom were also perched upon 
 the tops of the houses, or sitting like a row of sparrows along the parapet, till we arrived at the 
 Neu-MarM, a large open square, with double lines of trees encompassing it, and where the military 
 usually attend parades and exercise, tlie casernfi, or barrack, fronting it on one side. Iliis large 
 space was roped in, upon the present occasion, on the inside of the surrounding trees, and the ropes 
 were defended from intruders by soldiers placed at intervals. A crowd had therefore collected on 
 the outside of the ro])es all round the square, and within this space the various cars, and orna- 
 mental carts, and waggons, and platforms on wheels, and horsemen, and bands of music, and mimes, 
 and mummers, and masqueraders were fast assembling. We soon discovered that this sacred 
 enclosure was penctral)le by the payment often silber groschcn (about one shilling English), and 
 we accordingly entered, and had an opportunity of making more close and undisturbed observations 
 than could otherwise have been obtained. But it will give the reader a much better idea of tlie 
 scene to describe the effect of the whole, as the cortege passed through the different streets. 
 Having seen all the "rout" of men and women, and " pleasant monsters" in detail, we took up a 
 station on a high ground, to sec the whole pass in succession, and now invite the reader to jilace 
 himself at our side. 
 
 Several horsemen, in fancy dresses, advance at the head of the procession, which slowly winds 
 its way, in a long train, out of the great square, and commences its passage through all the 
 principal streets of the city. Among the horsemen, the most cons]>icuous is a very large man, 
 with a smiling rosy face, attired in a flesh-coloured tight dress, with the skin of a wild beast over 
 his shoulders, and bearing a club, the thicker or bossy end of which is formed by tlie insertion of 
 a knuckle of ham, at once presenting a warlike outline and a festive idea. Behind him ride others 
 who carry bottles and flasks slung at their sides, and one very good-natured, humorous old 
 countryman is seated astride upon a small barrel, the barrel being fastened upon the horse's back 
 in jdace of the saddle. 
 
 A cottage, mounted upon a waggon or platform on wheels, next makes its appearance. In 
 front of it stands a large Christmas tree, full of golden fruit, and fairy gifts, and bags of money, 
 or something better. The roof of the cottage is regularly thatched, and a live crow, jierched upon 
 the top near the chimney, is evidently a very unwilling participator in tlie scene, and flaps his 
 wings and opens his bill in wrath at bis inability lo escape. 
 
 Soon after this we see a balloon, of red and wliiie. come bobbing along over the heads of the 
 crowds that line the street on each side, and we ])resently discover that this is intended to reiuesont 
 a su|)idy, and is afhxed to the centre of a large silver boat, in which stand various figures, attired 
 
THE CARNIVAL AT COLOGNE. 107 
 
 in what tliey fancy to be sailors' dresses, but having rather the appearance ot" pastrycooks, or 
 stewards on board a steamer bound for "an excursion." They present printed songs to the 
 sjiectators. 
 
 But what little thick figure is that which now comes hopping and skipping, on tip-toe, through 
 the muddy streets in a flesh-coloured dress ? His fleshings fit tight to his shape, and his shape 
 is not unlike that of the " fat boy" in Boz. His face and hands, though painted, are absolutely 
 blue with the cold. The cold shows through every wing. You can see that his knees are cold. 
 He has a pair of golden things of the shape of pancakes, that hang in hopeless inactivity from 
 his shoulders, and also a pair of wings at his feet, exactly like the fins of a dead porpoise. It is a 
 German Mercury ! He has got a cigar to comfort him, which some considerate friend in the 
 crowd has just placed in his eager hands. 
 
 A truly splendid figure soon makes up for this. A band of music heralds its advance. It is 
 a gigantic king, in an embroidered crimson mantle and vest, ornamented with gold devices, and 
 edged with white fur. He has a very handsome face of royal happiness. Glossy, jet-black curls 
 hang in profusion over his shoulders, and he is mounted upon a grand jet-black horse of colossal 
 size — quite a show of itself, and not clumsy, but of dignified heroic action, and appearing conscious 
 of its own noble presence upon the great occasion. 
 
 The tolling of a bell is now heard, and, turning the corner of the street, high as the sscond-floor 
 windows of the houses, we see a steeple appear ! It is attached to a little church, and passes on 
 its way, the l)ell constantly announcing its approach. It distributes songs and other printed 
 effusions as ii proceeds. 
 
 A troop of Tyrolese now come singing their way along. Very badly indeed they sing. It is 
 not only unlike the Tyrolese, but not good singing of any kind. A troop of brigands follow, and 
 there are many bandits in Italian costumes on horseback. The best and most grotesque figure of 
 a group mixing with these latter is one who is mounted upon a very strangely-accoutred horse, 
 and upon his head he wears a sort of heraldry dolphin as a helmet — his face looking out of the 
 open jaws, while the body and tail of the fish, writhing upright and slanting back, form an excellent 
 ornamental top. 
 
 Preceded by a band of indifFerent music, a large platform drawn by four horses advances. 
 Various figures in Auicy dresses are stationed upon it, and one of them has a very long, thin pole, 
 at the top of which he continually sticks a song, a ballad, or a witticism, and hands it up to the 
 spectators who occupy the windows at each side of the street, as the platform moves along. 
 
 Numbers of figures now go huddling by — bandits, and peasants, and grotesque masqueraders, 
 and characters, among whom we discover Don Quixote and Sancho Panza, but they are very bad 
 representatives of those celebrated originals. The last of this group is a little knight in full 
 armour, who is mounted upon a calf. The calf seems to have been partially trained for the 
 performances of the day, but owing to the confusion of the scene, or his natural stupidity, he often 
 forgets his lesson, and runs head-foremost into the crowd at one side, or up against a house, or 
 with his nose between the wheels of the wagijons and cars. Several female characters are on 
 horseback ; but we are informed that nearly all of them, as well as those who are dressed like 
 women or girls on the waggons and platforms, are personated by young men. 
 
 The cortege is closed with a sort of moving framework, surrounded by a number of leafless 
 trees and shrubs, and having a squalid hut at one end, at the door of which a woman, dressed like 
 the wife of a "half-starved gardener," and with a face quite purple with the cold, stands smoking 
 .1 pipe. Two soldiers, in uniform, appear as the very unnecessary guards of this most uninviting 
 garden and woman. At the back of the hut is written " Wintergartni." They give songs as they 
 pass. 
 
108 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 Selecting one of these songs, we offer tlie following translation : 
 
 mDlncr-iMrT0tJtc. 
 
 1. 
 
 Be brisk ! — to horse and wapgon I 
 
 Be brisk ! — no long delays ! 
 Thought's lost in flask and flagon, 
 
 In these our mirth-mad days. 
 Make way ye higli-neck'd tyros. 
 
 Who think yourselves too tall, 
 With carnival-made heroes. 
 
 To jig it at the ball. 
 
 All pride this day is buried. 
 
 Each man"s a hero true, 
 His eye will find its pleasure 
 
 In all that's bright and new. 
 Now rich and poor are equal ; 
 
 No rank — no work — all play ; 
 Beginning, middle, sequel, 
 
 It is one laugh all day. 
 
 3. 
 
 See ye the waggons motley I 
 
 See ye the full inask'd ball ! 
 With the crowd's pressure carried, 
 
 You must see one and all ! 
 Hepent your deeds, you sinner, 
 
 Pluck up the world's bad weeds, 
 I'lant fancies of the children. 
 
 The first of all gaud seeds. 
 
 Back ! back I you Speculators ! 
 
 No buying, selling here ; 
 No cake and sugar traffic, 
 
 No money for your beer ! 
 Give, or get out ! — be merry. 
 
 For none shall come our way. 
 Who will not most sincerely, 
 
 Be fools with us to-day ! 
 
 These songs are of various character, some of them written in Low German, provincial dialect, 
 or patois, full of pirns and local allusions, and are, consequently, not translatable. These, therefore, 
 we must pass over, but of the intelligible sort a brief specimen may not be uninteresting to lOnglish 
 readers. We should premise that the most prevalent armament for a gentleman's head during the 
 Carnival is a Fool's cap. Nor is the fashion confined to Cologne ; for at Mainz (Mai/ence) during 
 this period there was one grand assemblage in the " Hall of Fools," where some four or five 
 liundred gentlemen sat down to dinner in these caps. A procession also took place in Bonn, 
 comprising horsemen and vehicles of all kinds, when the number of caps could not have been less 
 than two or three thousand. One of the songs thus commences : 
 
 jF0or^--ra}) ^ans. 
 
 1. 
 
 .loviAi-, joyous, fresh and free. 
 Wearers of Fools'-caps are we ! 
 On horseback in procession gay 
 Through the streets we take our way, 
 Gazing upward as we go 
 At ladies, laughing in a row 
 'I'o hear us sing Ilalti-hallo. 
 
 For dinner soon wc throng the hall. 
 But wearing still our Fools'-caps tall — 
 Caps with several folds and points. 
 Of white and rod like lobster-joints : 
 But lobster boil'd look'd ne'er so bright. 
 Nor ever yot was half so light 
 As heads will be this merry night. 
 
 Here is the first verse of a song in honour oi beer, which is said to have had its origin in the 
 genius of a royal brewer, and to have been " invented" by a Dutch king named Kambrinus. 
 
 Heil dir, Kambrinus, unserm Hort 
 Im frohcn Festverein, &c. 
 
 All hail, Kunibrinus, our defender, 
 Kefugc, rtjoicer, great Beer-sender, 
 In this our holyday-time, .S:c. 
 
 The song is accompanied by sundry witticisms on the brewing abilities of various cities and 
 provinces, under such titles as " Bairisches Bier," " Heidelberger Faulenpelzbier," " Dresdner 
 Waldschlossbier," " Braunschweiger Mumm," " Berliner kuelile Blonde," " Englischer Ale," &c. 
 
 Now that all the motley train has moved away, and nearly all the spectators too, we hurry ott' 
 towards our hotel. But we meet a crowd on the way, and sudilonly learn that there is a second 
 cortege close at liand, larger tlian the first. Our progress is iitipeded by its advance u)) the 
 Hoch-Strasse ; to retreat is impossible, for the crowds are now pressing tiiis way from all t|iiarters. 
 We are compelled to witness the wiiole train, and resolving therefore to make the best of the 
 
THE CARNIVAL AT COLOGNE. 109 
 
 necessity, we forget our cold and wet condition, and take notes in our pocket-book, from wliich 
 the following is transcribed. 
 
 First comes a handsome horseman, in a rich dress, carrying a very large and most beautifully 
 embroidered l)anner. 
 
 He is followed by a small car, containing several odd -looking figures. The car is drawn by two 
 men in the dress of Prussian peasants, but with pigs' heads, 'i'hese latter attract more attention 
 than those in the car. Of course, it will be understood that these cars, and waggons, and wheel- 
 platforms, all present figures and devices emblematic of something — " best known to themselves," 
 and to the good folks in Cologne, in most instances ; but occasionally being obviously no more 
 than the display, as we see occasionally in our own country, of the handicraft and vain-glory of 
 certain trades and companies. 
 
 After this, we descry two excellently grotesque figures of Cupid and Psyche, mounted upon a 
 gigantic cock and hen. The classical lovers, as well as the fowls, are excessively fat, the former 
 having a cherubic roundness of limbs and cheeks, and wearing wreaths of roses round their heads. 
 The cock and hen are admirably contrived, and walk with a coquettish air. 
 
 Immediately behind these advances a numerous brass band on horseback and in uniform, every 
 one of whom has a grandmother's bonnet upon his head. 
 
 Close upon the band come a group of dancers, apparently intended to represent Swiss peasantry. 
 Considering the uneven stones, the snow-slush, and muddy water through which they tread tiie 
 " giddy maze," and the undoubted coolness of the " fantastic toe," they really deserve the highest 
 credit for the apparent hilarity with which they continue their pastime. 
 
 A car now approaches, which ever and anon produces a great sensation in the crowd on each 
 side. The car is laden in front with cake. Cakes of the size of large tea-boards are piled 
 upon each other. They are of a sweet spongy kind, and great pieces are continually broken off 
 by the figures in the car, and thrown among the spectators in the streets. If the scrambling for 
 the songs and witticisms is considerable, the efforts to obtain the cake are of a kind which 
 approaches the desperate ; all, however, in good-humour ; much struggling, but no fighting. 
 
 A colossal chariot of triumph now appears, the most lofty and splendid of all the train. The 
 body of the chariot is of the shell shape, and is supported upon the back of a fierce dragon, whose 
 open jaws are seen in front, while his immense tail writhes out behind, and his huge, forky 
 wings of green and gold are spread out at each side. The wheels of the chariot are of a bright 
 silver hue, but raised upon an invisible framework, which moves upon wheels underneath. In 
 the chariot are seated a splendidly attired king and queen, perhaps of ancient Greece, but more 
 probably of some of the fabulous countries of romance. The whole is drawn by six white horses. 
 It reminds us of some of the descriptions in the " Knight's Tale " of Chaucer. A higher compli- 
 ment we could not pay it. 
 
 Several grotesque figures on foot pass onward In the train, among which are two double drums, 
 and two contre-hassos, all walking upright, and apparently of their own accord, with an occasional 
 reeling motion, as if about to commence a dance. The drums are fellows of no "expression," 
 their outline wants character, but the double-basses look like strange Brobdignag insects of the 
 beetle genus. 
 
 Some chorus singing is next attempted, but it is as abominable as other noises of a similar kind 
 which have issued from sundry cars and waggons. Upon such an occasion as this one would have 
 thought that a city like Cologne might have furnished something decent for its own sake, to say 
 nothing of the musical reputation of Germany. But all the choruses were abortive, and often 
 mere vulgar discords. Tliey were worse even than the singing of the students by night in the 
 streets of Bonn. 
 
110 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 Is it the god Pluto who now advances in his dark chariot ? Yes, he is a Pluto, and surrounded 
 by various characteristic attendants. He is probably the emblematic representative of some large 
 company of manufacturers of iron, brass, copper, and other metals. We suspect that underneath 
 a canopy in the centre of the platform he has had the good sense to secrete a stove with a fire 
 iu it. 
 
 Following Pluto comes a sort of Ironmonger's shop, raised upon a square platform ; and upon 
 high rails there hang at the four quarters many sorts of cooking utensils — pots, pans, ovens, 
 saucepans, strainers, boilers, fish-kettles, and even tea-kettles — though to obtain water really boiling, 
 to make tea, is nearly impossible in Germany, and as for the tea, it is chiefly furnished from the 
 hedges, if one may judge by the taste, and also by examining the leaves when wet and opened out. 
 The occupants of this moveable shop have black faces, and they distribute songs. 
 
 The next waggon displays what looks something like the press-room of a Printing Office. But 
 the printers have all got asses' heads ! Why this should be, and what satire is meant to be con- 
 veyed by it, we do not understand. Does it point to the " press " in Germany, which is any 
 thing but free? Does it mean to tell us that strong slaves are fools (being strong) to continue 
 slaves ? We do not know. 
 
 A Toy-shop moves onwards in the train, hung round with toys in the same style as the pots and 
 pans of the ironmonger's. 
 
 This is followed by a large platform, displaying a harvest, with wheatsheaves, and male and 
 female harvesters. The harvesters are dancing, with implements of husbandrv in their hands, 
 to the imminent danger, as it sometimes appears, of cutting off each other's heads with reap-hooks, 
 and other formidable emblems of peace. 
 
 A still larger platform follows, of a higher poetical character, not unworthy of a few stanzas in 
 the " Faery Queene." It displays a large palm-tree in the centre, round which various figures of 
 "old romance" are congregated. At each corner of the front, uplifted and reclining upon o|)en 
 carved work, a girl in white robes is playing upon a golden harp ; and at the two corners behind 
 similar figures are also seen. The effect was beautiful, and, alas ! too transitory. 
 
 It is not necessary to tell the English public that German Sausages are of long-established 
 celebrity ; but the aforesaid public has no notion of the great variety, as to taste, size, texture, 
 colour, shape, wholosomeness and unwholesomeness, which the prolific and inventive genius of the 
 country produces. Accordingly it was impossible that the opportunity of a grand disi)lay afforded 
 by the Carnival could be lost by the compilers of that richly savoury but most ungraceful article, or 
 by the witty amateurs of the same. The shop on wheels which now approaches is hung all round 
 with innumerable sausages of all dcscrii)tions, from the small, ordinary size, to those which are as 
 large as the thickest part of a boa-constrictor — red, pink, brown, puce-coloured, putty-coloured, 
 yellow, mottled, and jet black. At the front of the jjlatform hang from each corner half a piw, 
 the halves being very large, flattened, and cured, but certainly not yet claiming the rank of bacon. 
 In the centre of the shop, a number of manufacturers stand round a block, and chop sausage-meat, 
 singing a patois chorus with the chopping accompaniment. Here is a verse. 
 
 iiMrfi-iHrlairtr. 
 
 BuiNO iDrtli the pi^'s meat, Butchcrliiigs bold : 
 
 Hack I hack ! &c. 
 Aiul the beef, aii<l the voal, in swuct herbs roll'd ; 
 
 Hack ! hack ! S,c. 
 Bring forth all rascals wlio live in Cologne, 
 
 Hack ! hack : Sec. 
 And we'll soon make them honest ami clean — to tlie binie 
 
 Hack ! Iiack ! &c. 
 
THE CARNIVAL AT COLOGNE. Ill 
 
 An editice, very like a large summer-house, is the next thing tliat engages our attention. But 
 we are prevented from further observation by seeing what follows it, which is the last platform of 
 the cortege, and is so broad that it nearly fills up the street. The crowd press backwards, on 
 each side — some rush forwards, others stoop down to allow certain moveable portions of the 
 paraphernalia to take their course overhead. It seems to be drawn by six grey horses. The 
 confusion has become so great that we are only able to see an immense barge-like car — if we 
 mistake not — over the sides of which are extended long and broad gilded oars, and these go 
 slowly sweeping along the streets, taking off hats and caps from the crowd in their passage onward, 
 knocking against many heads, and threatening windows by thumping occasionally against the 
 shutters. A crowd follows it behind, leaping up every now and then to obtain the songs or 
 witticisms which it distributes. 
 
 It is all over so far ; and the next thing to be done is to hurry to our hotel, and change the wet 
 and soiled habiliments. It is now two o'clock. The usual dinner-hour of the hotels is one o'clock, 
 but during Carnival days we are informed that the hour is half-past two. Our time we therefore 
 portion out for the rest of the day in the following manner:. — first, dinner, which will probably 
 terminate about four o'clock ; then the Kunstreiterei (horsemanship), which is excellent in 
 Cologne; then the Puppen-theater, where plays are acted by dolls, who fairly walk about upon a 
 stage, " the words " being spoken for them by invisible interlocutors ; then the theatre, or musical 
 entertainments or farces of whatever kind may be going forward ; then supper, and a long medita- 
 tion upon the vanities of the world while reclining upon a sofa; and finally to go to the famous 
 masked ball at the Giirzenich. 
 
 A word may be said about the dinner. The Germans laugh excessively at the description of 
 an English public dinner when the various dishes are mentioned. When one is accustomed to 
 the German cookery, the dishes do not, in general, appear strange, yet to those who have not heard 
 of such " compositions" before, some of the following, which were served upon the presL-nt occasion, 
 may seem peculiar. We had baked beef, with salad and preserved plums ; potatoes fried with 
 vinegar and sugar, and potatoes and milk and water, covered with fried, and very greasy, bread 
 crumbs ; stewed veal with carrots, and red pickled cabbage with sugar ; baked ducks with pickled 
 cherries, or brandy cherries rather sour; salmon in a sauce of oil and white batter; and turnips 
 dressed with butter, and grated cinnamon, &c. Then came the puddings (black-puddings 
 inclusive) and preserves of apples, pears, and prunes, and various sweet or savoury things, and 
 then, according to custom, slices of hot baked mutton, with a rich sauce. After this the dessert 
 begins slowly to come iu, during which the dressed characters (among whoin we recognised the 
 King and Queen of the splendid dragon-chariot in the second cortege) rise, and contiive to dance 
 in a very narrow space, which is gained by pushing one of the tables a little aside. Other of the 
 Carnival heroes walk about the room and make speeches, some of which are full of political 
 allusions, carefully enveloped in jokes, but occasionally bordering upon high treason, and producing 
 applause and laughter. 
 
 The heroes and dancers resumed their seats ; there was no other attempt at supporting a 
 character; throughout the day the " dresses" were the principal "actors." The band now began 
 to play a well-known air, which had been some years since composed for the Carnival, and the 
 whole happy company at each table took part in it in the following manner. One of the heroes 
 took the post of leader of the chorus, a)id sung the air with the band, accompanied by the whole 
 room. With the beginning of the next verse, or recommenceinent of the air, the leader set the 
 example of clapping his hands "to the tune," and this hand-clapping accompaniment was accord- 
 ingly made by all present. The leader next began to whistle with the band, and we all whistled. 
 The next thing was to tap the wine glasses with the back of the dessert-knives, which produced 
 
112 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 a multitudinous ringing and jingling sound, and, of course, many glasses were liroken by ambitious 
 performers. ^Marking time, or beating the " melody" with the feet upon the floor, followed this, 
 with a sounding, unanimous, solid, satisfactory effect. The next " variation" upon this very 
 original melody, was that of rattling the plates upon the table; and because, at the conclusion, 
 enough jjlates liad not been broken, a number of gentlemen broke tlieir plates upon their own 
 heads, the white fragments falling upon their shoulders, and down their backs in all directions. 
 Then we had an imitation of the braced drum, everybody drumming upon the table with tlie 
 handles of his knife and fork ; a harsh noise, in which the band could scarcely be heard. A 
 laughing accompaniment followed, and was very well executed by us all. 
 
 The festive days being concluded, many heroes, heroines, and all devout persons, betake them- 
 selves to church on Aschcnmittwoch (Ash Wednesday), and make the sign of the cross upon their 
 foreheads with water in which ashes have been cast, by way of expressing penitence for having 
 been more merry than wise during the Carnival. 
 
 ^ -W^ I 
 
 I 
 
 
 ^^ 
 
 ^'^^ 
 
 
COLOGNE. 
 
 113 
 
 INTERCHArTER FOR THE TRAVELLER. 
 
 COT.OGNE. 
 
 1 Cathedral. 
 
 2 New Market. 
 
 3 Old Market. 
 
 4 Square of the Cathedral. 
 
 5 i*aiace of Justice. 
 
 6 Arsenal. 
 
 7 Archbishop's Palace. 
 
 8 Theatre. 
 
 9 WallrafF's Museum. 
 
 10 Town Hall. 
 
 11 Trade Hall. 
 
 12 Exchange. 
 
 13 Casino. 
 
 14 General Post Office. 
 
 15 Hospital for Citizens. 
 
 16 Royal Bank. 
 
 17 Quay for Rhine Steam-boats. 
 IS Quay for Lower Rhine boats. 
 
 19 Severin Strasse. 
 
 20 Perlengraben. 
 
 21 Blaiibach. 
 
 2^<i Nachelskaule. 
 
 23 IVIuhlbach. 
 
 24 Malzbiichel. 
 
 25 Hochpforle. 
 
 26 Hoch Strasse. 
 
 27 Grosse Neugasse. 
 2S Jobannis Strasse. 
 29 Eigelstein Strasse. 
 oO Machabaer Strasse. 
 
 31 Unter Kranenbaumen. 
 
 32 Alter (Jr.iben. 
 
 33 Zeiigbau<i Strasse. 
 54 Breite Strasse. 
 
 35 Schilderer Strasse. 
 
 36 St, Cecilien Strasse. 
 
 37 (iereon Strasse. 
 
 38 Friedrich V\'ilhem Strasse. 
 59 Am BoIIwerk. 
 
 40 St. Cuneberlsufer. 
 
 In Deutz. 
 
 41 Church. 
 
 42 Barracks. 
 
 COLOGNE. 
 
 HOTELS. 
 
 Royale. Cour Imperiale. 
 
 Hollande. Cologne. 
 
 Imperial. Grosse Ilheinburg. 
 
 Belle Vue, (across the river.) 
 
 CHIEF THINGS TO BE SEEN IN COLOGNK. 
 
 1. The Cathedral. 
 
 2. The Museum. 
 
 3. The Church of the Jesuits. 
 
 4. The Church of St. Ursula. 
 
 5. The " Roman Tower." 
 
 6. The Church of the Apostles. 
 
 7. The Church of St. Peter's. 
 
 8. The Church of St. Mary. 
 
 9. The Gurzenich. 
 
 10. The Town Hall, (Rathhaus). 
 
 11. The Birth-place of Rubens. 
 
114 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 The Cathedral is built in the form of a 
 cross, the arches supported by a quadruple row 
 of 64 columns, including the semi-columns; 
 and, if we include those of the portico, there 
 are more than one hundred. The four columns 
 in the middle are 30 feet in circumference ; and 
 each of the liundred columns is surmounted by 
 a capital different from the others. The two 
 towers, which were intended to be 500 feet high, 
 remain unfinished, the northern one being not 
 more than 21 feet above the ground, and the 
 other is little more than half the intended height 
 The great bell weighs 25,000 lbs. At the top 
 of this tower, the crane used in raising the stones 
 brought from the mountain of Drachenfels is 
 still seen. The choir and the chapels are the 
 only finished portions of the cathedral ; but 
 workmen are busy in the attempt to complete 
 the building. God speed them ! 
 
 The Shrine of the Three Kings is made 
 a puppet-show of, like Westminster Abbey and 
 St. Paul's, London. The fee to the showman 
 is six francs ; and tourists frequently either 
 leave it unseen (which is wrong), or make up a 
 party (as the fee is the same for six as for one ) ; 
 and so gaze on the relics, and cheat the Swiss 
 of the excessive fee he ought not to be allowed 
 to take. Another hint for the King of Prussia ! 
 In the cathedral should be seen the pictures, 
 the tombs, the library, and the shrines. 
 
 A staircase on the left side of the choir, close 
 to the eighth pillar, leads to the library of the 
 cathedral, and to the hall called Goldene Kammer 
 (Golden Chamber). The library formerly 
 contained a very fine collection of books, and a 
 great number of manuscripts of the time of 
 Charlemagne, all of which were taken away 
 during the Revolution. The doors of the 
 library are curiously carved, and the wardrobes 
 contain the dresses of the priests. 
 
 The Church ok St. Maky of the Capitol. 
 — The upper part of the choir, and the colon- 
 nade of round arclies, were built in the eighth 
 century ; but the greater j)art of the diurch, 
 particularly the top of the nave, appears to have 
 been re-constructed in the fourteenth, tlie church 
 having suffered much during tlie invasion of the 
 
 Normans. In this church are several ancient 
 pictures. It h;is likewise a superb organ. 
 
 The Church of St. Gereon was built in 
 1066, by Archbishop Anno, on the same spot 
 on which the temple erected by St. Helena for- 
 merly stood. Its cupola, with three galleries, 
 is a grar.d and astonishing work ; and the church 
 is certainly one of the finest in Cologne. In the 
 crypt are two chapels, the floors of which are 
 ancient mosaic work. On the side of the altars, 
 at the entrance of tlie church, are two pictures 
 by C. Schiit and Geldorf. 
 
 The Church of St. Cunibert, near the 
 Rhine, is a large building, with an altar in 
 imitation of the grand altar of St. Peter's at 
 Rome. 
 
 The Church of St. Peter is built on the 
 ruins of a Roman temple, the vestibule of which 
 still exists. Rubens was baptized in this church 
 on St. Peter's day. His picture of the Cruci- 
 fixion of that Apostle is its chief attraction. The 
 font in which Rubens was baptized is still 
 shown here, as well as the tombstone of his 
 father. 
 
 The Convent of St. Ursula is remarkable 
 for its relation to the legend of that saint and 
 her eleven thousand virgins. The church is 
 filled with bones. 
 
 The Town Hall of Cologne should certainly 
 be seen, as a speciinen of ancient German archi- 
 tecture. 
 
 The Kafh.\us of Gurzenich (commercial 
 depot), has a large hall, wliere several Diets of 
 the Empire have been held, and in which the 
 Emperor Maximilian gave several fetes. 
 
 The Church of the Jesuits is overladen 
 with decorations. It contains the crosier of 
 Francis Xavier and the rosary of Ignatius 
 Loyola. 
 
 The Museum of Wai.i.raff should also be 
 visited, altliough the pictures disappoint many 
 who see them. 
 
 Private Collections. — Haan, Raumoister, 
 Merlo, Zanoli, Kaatz, Essingh, Weycr, and 
 Geeling. 
 
 The Casino, situated near the theatre, is a 
 modern building, into which strangers may be 
 
COLOGNE. 
 
 115 
 
 introduced by a member : the innkeepers ge- 
 nerally belong to these societies. 
 
 Eau de Cologne is to be bought at no less 
 than seventy makers. Farina's store is in Ju- 
 lich's Place. 
 
 DISTANCES FROSI THE PRINCIPAL PLACES ON THE 
 
 RHINE, BETWEEN COLOGNE AND MAYENCE, 
 
 FOLLOWING THE TOWING-PATH. 
 
 Cologne to Rodenkirchen 
 From thence to Weiss 
 
 Wesling 
 
 Widdig 
 
 Hersel 
 
 Rheindorf 
 
 Bonn - 
 
 Plittersdorf - 
 
 Mehlem 
 
 Oberwinter 
 
 Remagea 
 
 Kripp, opposite Linz 
 
 Brewig 
 
 Brohl - 
 
 Fornig 
 
 Andernach 
 
 Weissenthurm 
 
 Urmitz 
 
 Katten Engers 
 
 Sebastian Engers 
 
 Kesselheim 
 
 Neuendorf 
 
 Coblentz 
 
 Capellen 
 
 Rhens - 
 
 Niederspey 
 
 Oberspey 
 
 Boppart 
 
 Salzig - 
 
 Hirzenach 
 
 St. Goar 
 
 Oberwesel 
 
 Caub - 
 
 Bacharach 
 
 Lorch - 
 
 Assmanshausen 
 
 Bingen 
 
 Leagues. 
 - 1 
 
 n 
 
 3 
 ? 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 U 
 
 1] 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 ? 
 
 n 
 n 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 ? 
 I 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 5 
 3 
 
 I 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 •2 
 3 
 % 
 
 Leagues. 
 
 Kempten - - - i 
 
 Gaulsheim - - - | 
 
 Frei%veinheim - - - 1 
 
 Budenheim - - - 2 
 
 Mayence - - - 2 
 
 Making 41| leagues from Cologne to 
 Mayence, or about 125 English miles. 
 The distance from Rotterdam to Cologne is 
 19\ leagues, and the total length of the Rhine 
 from the source to the sea 303i leagues. 
 
 Steam- Boats. — It is at Cologne that steam- 
 boats again become interesting. There are 
 two companies working from Cologne up and 
 down the Rhine ; the Steam Nas'igation Com- 
 pany of the Lower and ^Middle Rhine, esta- 
 blished in 1838, under the name of the " Dus- 
 seldorf Company ; " and the Rhenish Steam 
 Navigation Cologne Company, established in 
 1827. The boats of the two companies are dis- 
 tinguishable by the chimneys of the Dusseldorf 
 Company being painted white and black ; those 
 of the Rhenish Steam Navigation Company 
 entirely black. These boats run to Mannheim, 
 From Mannheim the Baden railroad is now 
 open to Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, Baden-Baden, 
 Kehl (Strasbourg), and Offenbourg, and will 
 shortly be extended to Freiburg and to Basle. 
 
 The Dusseldorf Company's boats are — The 
 Elberfeldt, Victoria, Kron-Prinz von Prussia, 
 Gros Kerzogln von Hessen, Stradt Bonn, Duke 
 of Nassau, Gutenberg, &c. 
 
 FARES FROM COLOGNE BY BOTH COMPANIES. 
 
 
 Pavilion. 
 
 First 
 Saloon. 
 
 Second 
 Saloon. 
 
 
 fr. 
 
 c. 
 
 fr. c. 
 
 fr. c. 
 
 To Bonn - 
 
 2 
 
 .50 
 
 1 75 
 
 — 90 
 
 Neuwied - 
 
 n 
 
 40 
 
 7, 65 
 
 3 25 
 
 Coblentz - 
 
 13 
 
 15 
 
 8 75 
 
 3 75 
 
 Bingen 
 
 21 
 
 90 
 
 14 Go 
 
 6 50 
 
 Creuznach - 
 
 23 
 
 40 
 
 16 15 
 
 8 — 
 
 Riebrich - 
 
 24 
 
 75 
 
 16 .50 
 
 7 40 
 
 Wiesbaden 
 
 25 
 
 50 
 
 17 25 
 
 8 15 
 
 Mayence - 
 
 25 
 
 
 
 16 75 
 
 7 50 
 
 Gernsheim 
 
 28 
 
 65 
 
 19 15 
 
 9 15 
 
 Darmstadt 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 20 50 
 
 10 .50 
 
 Mannheim 
 
 32 
 
 75 
 
 21 90 
 
 11 — 
 
 A company of five persons or under can hire 
 the pavilion for their exclusive use, for which 
 they have to pay seven times the pavilion fare ; 
 
 « a 
 
116 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 and for every person above five, in aiidition, 
 the fare in first cal)ln. 
 
 HisTOKv. — Cologne was a bishopric in the 
 year 314, and, in 799, was erected into an arch- 
 bishopric by Charlemagne. In the ancient 
 constitution of Germany, the archbishop as- 
 sumed tlie title of Born Legate of the Holy See, 
 and arch-chancellor of the sacred empire for 
 Italy. He gave his vote after the Elector of 
 Treves, and sat at the right hand of tlic em- 
 peror, at assemblies held in his own diocese, in 
 Gaul, or in Italy. Cologne is situated, in the 
 form of a crescent, on the banks of the Rhine, 
 and is fortified ; but its walls are in so decayed 
 and tottering a state, that they are incapable 
 of affording much defence. The whole of its 
 length, along the river, is about 3^ miles. The 
 streets are narrow, winding, and gloomy, and 
 most of the houses are very lofty and old ; and 
 yet this city is said to contain within its com- 
 pass more ciiurches, chapels, and monasteries, 
 
 than there are days in the year. The vessels 
 that may be always seen in tlie port of Cologne 
 are very numerous; the quay, more than IJ 
 mile long, is generally crowded with vessels. 
 Under the old police, if a Jew came into the 
 city, he was accompanied by a guard during 
 his stay, and obliged to pay a ducat for every 
 hour of his continuance there. In the year 
 1618 the Protestants were also expelled; but 
 some years after tliey obtained permission to 
 return. . The magistrates indeed gave them 
 leave to erect a place of worship, which was 
 destroyed by the infatuated mob as soon as it 
 was finished. Near this city some pseudo-vol- 
 canic remains have been traced, which are 
 thought to be such as are mentioned by Tacitus 
 at the close of the 13th book of his Annals, the 
 effects of subterranean fire which ravaged the 
 country of the Juhones. N. lat. 50° 55' 21". 
 E. long. 6° 55'. The population at present is 
 80,000. 
 
THE KOUBERS OF THE RHINE. 
 
 117 
 
 _ U i£i:FKJ.S. 
 
 THE ROBBERS OP THE RHINE. 
 
 o soon as the Traveller has contented himself with his visit to Cologne, 
 ^ and is ready to proceed upon his way, he has choice of reaching 
 Bonn " by Rhine or by railway. " If he has a liking for Iiis bed in 
 the morning, the chemin defer must be his choice, but if he possesses 
 the happy power of rising early, he will then take his seat upon the 
 deck of the steamer. 
 
 As the banks have yet but little interest, he may amuse himself by scanning the 
 
 story of the marauders of this neighbourhood, whose exploits surprised all Europe. 
 
 The fullest and best account of the Robbers of the Rhine — the modei-n 
 
 prototypes of the old freebooters, — was furnished, in 1833, by Mr. Leitcli Ritchie, 
 
 in his Travelling Sketches. 
 
 " Towards the close of the French Revolution," says the author of the Romance of French 
 History, " the banks of the Rhine, and the surrounding country from Holland to Mainz, were the 
 theatre of exploits as strange and wild, and the haunt of men as extraordinary, as any that are 
 exhibited in history. The French laws were not yet in full operation in Belgium, nor the conflict 
 of opinion and parties at an end. Every thing was in confusion. The very elements of society 
 seemed to have been broken up and disorganized by the moral earthquake that had occurred. A 
 lawless and reckless spirit pervaded all ranks of people, and made room, in individual cases, for 
 the development of talents and energies that, under ordinary circumstances, would have continued 
 to slumber in embryo. 
 
118 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 "Energies so called up must, like spirits summoned by sorcery, be evil in their nature ; and 
 accordingly a reign of terror commenced, scarcely less extraordinary than the events of the 
 Revolution itself. From Belgium a criminal could easily pass into Holland if pursued, or into 
 the countries bordering the Rhine; and there the minute subdivisions of the Germanic Confede- 
 ration, in which each petty prince maintained a jealous independence of the rest, rendered pursuit 
 almost hopeless. The policy, therefore, of great criminals, in their choice of localities, will be 
 easily comprehended. 
 
 " But, as the genius of individuals began to gather together the elements of lawless power, and 
 unite the various little roving bands in one compact society, it was seen that the magnitude of the 
 mass would force the alarmed governments into a league against them, and that thus their very 
 strength would prove their destruction. How to obviate this difficulty was the cjuestion — how 
 to increase rather than diminish their numbers, and to tighten rather than relax the bond of union, 
 without presenting any tangible surface to the authorities ; and, out of the speculations on this 
 knotty point, there arose at length one of the most remarkable associations that are mentioned 
 in history. 
 
 " The known and ostensible members of the band were diminished in number, rather than 
 increased, by the new constitution. These, under the captain-ship of some individual raised to the 
 post by his courage or talents, inhabited as their head-quarters an old castle or ruined mill; or 
 pitched their wandering camp in the recesses of a forest. It was, in fact, easy to find a harbour 
 capable of accommodating a much larger force, in times when so many country families had fled for 
 refuge, from the horrors of war, to the more populous and protected towns. The roads between 
 town and town were for the same reason comparatively deserted, except by travellers and 
 merchants : and the villages cut off from all peaceable inter-communication. 
 
 " Having fixed upon a camp, or rendezvous, the next important step was to secure the safe passage 
 of the bandits through the territory, by establishing every where a line of posts, affording succour 
 and shelter in case of need. This was easily arranged by enlisting in the cause the more needy 
 and desperate of the innkeepers and aubergistes. Some of these, in the country parts, had been 
 left helpless and alone, like stranded barks, by the ebbing tide of population ; and, as their 
 profession at any rate is not suspected of predisposing strongly to honesty, they were found in 
 general to enter con amore into the proposals that were made to ihem. 
 
 " In the slang of the robbers — a jargon compounded of Hebrew, High and Low German, and 
 French — these places of refuge were called Kochemer-bcyes, ■w\\&l\\er public-houses or not; and 
 there a member when pursued was sure of protection and advice ; and his address, or that of the 
 band, was always to be procured by those who wanted it for a friendly purpose. To such perfection 
 had this system been carried, that it is understood that a robber could travel from the farther 
 extremity of Holland to the Danube, with the certainty of spending every night in the company, 
 or under the protection, of friends. 
 
 " In numerous cases, also, the functionaries of police, from the magistrate down to the lowest 
 officer, were in the pay of the band ; and it was frequently observed that tlie anxiety of a robber, 
 taken even in the fact, was at once dissipated, as if by a magic spell, on the name of the worthy 
 being pronounced before whom he was about to be carried. 
 
 ♦' Names, dress, character, complexion, and features, were changed with wonderful facility by 
 these intelligent and industrious persons. Our Dutch merchant and German baron are specimens. 
 As for the passports, they were managed entirely by the womankind, who had a great talent for 
 business. 
 
 " The persons we have described, however, were I'cw in number, periiaps not more than a dozen 
 men and their families. Where, then, were the banditti who kejit the country in terror? — who, 
 
THE ROBBERS OF THE RHINE. 119 
 
 amidst the noise of fire-arms that was heard over half a province, carried villages, and even towns, 
 by assault, and either plundered them of their moveable riches, or held them to ransom at the 
 point of the sword? In the villages, in the towns themselves, in isolated farm-houses, in obscure 
 or remote inns, were domiciled these mysterious freebooters. These were the body, and the 
 former the soul ; these the executive and the former the legislative power of this invisible state. 
 The former were the chiefs and their immediate attendants ; the latter the great mass of the band, 
 distributed over the face of the country, inhabiting their own houses, working at their own trades 
 or professions, yet ready, at a signal understood only by themselves, to vanish from their homes 
 and families, and follow, wherever they were led, to the death. 
 
 " They were called Apprentices. They were bound to the society by the most tremendous oaths 
 — which they were rarely tempted to break, well knowing that an invisible dagger hung over 
 their heads, which was sure to descend even on a suspicion of their falsehood. A miserable 
 ■wretch, who had been taken by the police, and securely lodged in a dungeon, once revealed, in the 
 agonies of his terror, the rendezvous of his chief — the famous Picard. The next night, while 
 reflecting in horror that, even by his treachery, he had probably been unable to save his life, 
 he heard his name pronounced in a whisper ; and, looking up, saw an arm passed between the 
 iron bars of the window. 
 
 ♦" Who art thou ?' inquired the robber, trembling, 
 
 '" Thy master — Picard ; I have ventured my life, as in duty bound, to set thee at liberty ! ' In 
 a few minutes his irons were sawed oflT, and one of the bars wrenched from the windo%v-frame ; 
 and, following his conductor, he scaled the wall, and scented the free air of the neighbouring forest. 
 The band were ready to receive them, drawn up in a semicircle, and standing under arms, in dead 
 silence. Their delivered comrade was placed in the middle. 
 
 '" Schleichener / ^ said the chief, addressing him with the slang epithet for traitor, • Didst thou 
 imagine that the word of treason would be unheard by Picard because it was whispered in the 
 depths of a dungeon ? Die, coward, in thy guilt ! ' 
 
 " ' Mercy ; mercy ! ' cried the wretch, as the pistol touched his ear — ' Give me death, but let it 
 be in battle ! Lead me on this very night, were it to the attack of an army, and let me die upon 
 the bayonets of the foe ! ' 
 
 '" It must not be,' said Picard, calmly, ' thou art unworthy of the death of the brave. Comrades, 
 shall the laws of the band be set aside in favour of a hound like this ? " 
 
 "' No!' growled the deep stern voice of the lieutenant; and the word was echoed, by some in 
 cruelty, by many in dismay, till it died away like a prolonged groan in the forest. The white 
 lips of the coward closed at the sound ; and a bullet, passing through his brain at the same 
 moment, quieted his fears for ever. 
 
 " Another story is told at Aix-la-Chapelle, which does not satisfy quite so well one's ideas of 
 retributive justice. A fine young man of that city was enrolled as an apprentice by the ferocious 
 Jikjak of Mersen, and awaited impatiently the commands of his chief, being desirous, not only of 
 distinguishing himself in the career to which his follies had driven him, but of obtaining money 
 enough to enable him to marry his sweetheart. It is not known whether his weakness was owing 
 to love or wine, or both together ; but, unhappily, he divulged, one evening, the secret of his 
 destiny to the terrified girl ; and, the next morning, he was called by Jikjak, in person, to 
 accompany him in an expedition. The youth followed more in shame than fear ; inwardly 
 resolving to make up for his harmless treason by gaining that day a character for courage which 
 should command the respect of the whole band. • 
 
 " And yet, as he followed his mute and gloomy conductor, a misgiving, at times, came over him. 
 There were numerous other apprentices, he knew, in Aix-la-Chapelle, and in the villages through 
 
120 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 which they passed. What kind of enterprise, then, could the renowned chieftain contemi)late, in 
 which he desired the assistance of only a single unknown, untried individual ? The younj^ man 
 shivered as they entered the black sliade of a forest ; but, wlien his conductor stopped suddenly 
 at a newly-made pit resembling a grave, his knees knocked together, and the hair rose upon his 
 head. 
 
 " ' Perjured traitor ! ' said the chief. ' Say thy pater-noster, for thou must die !' 
 
 " ' I deserve death,' replied the apprentice, ' yet try me once again ! To-morrow the girl will 
 he my wife, and we shall remove — far from her friends and acquaintance — wherever you command. 
 Only try me ! I am as brave as thou ! ' 
 
 " • Thou hast broken the laws of the band, and therefore thou must die ! Down on thy knees, 
 down ; ' and with one Herculean arm he bent him, by main force, to the earth ; while with the 
 other, he raised a hatchet above his head. 
 
 " ' Only hear me ! — ' 
 
 "' Reprobate! Wilt thou die without a prayer?' The youth submitted ; and, by the time the 
 word ' Amen ' had fairly passed his lips, the iron was deep in his brain. 
 
 " The apprentices were evenly distributed over the country, and were prohibited from assembling, 
 even at fairs, or on such casual occasions, in bodies of more than three or four. If they were seen 
 by a chief in greater number, a significant sign commanded them instantly to disi^erse, and 
 disobedience was sure to be followed by punishment. The same policy dictated the choice of 
 distant scenes for their enterprises ; and it was no uncommon thing for the citizens of Mainz to be 
 visited by the banditti of the Lower INIcusc, or for the Weser and the Elbe to be thrown into 
 consternation by the roving bands of the Rhine. 
 
 " An important expedition was rarely undertaken except by the advice and agency of one of the 
 Jewish spies, called holdovers in the slang of the freebooters. These persons no sooner became 
 acquainted with the existence and locality of a booty than they opened negociations with a robber- 
 chief; and, if he came into their terms, which were usually exorbitant, made the necessary 
 disclosures. An enterprise so conducted was sure to end in bloodshed and cruelty ; for the Jew, 
 in order to justify the extravagance of his demand, lied and cheated, as Jews have done habitually 
 from the days of Jacob. The robbers, seduced by their avarice, were only too ready to believe 
 the tale in its full extent ; and their miserable victims paid in blood and torture the deficiency in 
 their expected hoards. When the pillage was at length effected, the haldoi-er usually offered to act 
 also as the scherfenspieler, or receiver; and in this character bought the spoils — no doubt, a 
 dead bargain. He thus made a double profit, — robbed the robbers, and spoiled the Egyptians 
 twice. 
 
 " The assembling of the band for any great enterprise was conducted with the cautious i)olicy 
 which distinguished this remarkable society. The members were generally summoned by a 
 confidential messenger, or perhaps the chief in person, and set out for the rendezvous, sometimes 
 alone, but never in parties exceeding three or four. Each man's mode of travelling was regulated 
 by his usual habits, or by his wealth or grade in society. Some were on horseback, others in 
 carriages, others on foot ; and a few had the charge of bringing waggons for the transpt)rt of the 
 booty. As the way was commonly long, and broken by forests and ravines, some place on the 
 route, of sufhcient notoriety to be known to the whole, was ai)pointeci, and there the .successive 
 groups of travellers began to look anxiously out for tlie Kochemeresink, or direction-signs left for 
 their guidance by the leaders. These, place<l at the cross-ways, were sometimes merely a line 
 traced upon the road, which each party, jiassing, intersected with a shorter line; so that the tra- 
 vellers not only knew their route, but the number of friends who had preceded them. Some- 
 times, when more caution was necessary, a branch of a tree was thrown down, as if accidentally, 
 
THE ROBBERS OF THE RHINE. 121 
 
 near the road, with the greater part of the foliage on the side which it was proper to take. In all 
 their strategetic measures, it will be seen that they calculated securely upon the absolute 
 inviolability of their secret ; and the examples we have given show on what grounds their 
 confidence was built. 
 
 " Frequently, the journey was performed in the middle of the night, and a sign of recognition, 
 therefore, was necessary, which did not depend upon the organs of vision. To whistle, the 
 expedient of common thieves, would not only have been vulgar, but dangerous; inasmuch as the 
 sound, when heard in the dark, is sure to call up a thousand cut-throat associations The 
 Kochemloschen, therefore, was invented, a shrill and lengthened cry ; which the belated wayfarer, 
 although no doubt startled by the sound rising from the brakes and thickets as he passed, would 
 be more ready to set down as the voice of owls, or evil spirits, than the call of robbers. 
 
 " When all had, at length, reached the place of rendezvous, an inspection of arms took place, and 
 the schnelles, alias pistols, were loaded. The words were then given which were to signify advance 
 or retreat ; torches were distributed, to be lighted instantaneously, at a particular signal ; and 
 the column moved on in profound silence. 
 
 " The captain marched at the head of his troop, armed, besides his other weapons, with a crow-bar, 
 the baton of his office. After him was carried the ram, a classical engine, used for battering down 
 doors and walls. It was usually a beam of timber a dozen feet long, but, when this was not to be 
 come at easily, a finger-post from the road, or a cross from the church-yard, if heavy enough to 
 answer the purpose, was an excellent substitute. Then came the subalterns, bearing the other 
 tools of their trade, which they called clamones ; and, finally, the private gentlemen of the band, 
 armed, like the rest, to the teeth. The faces of the whole were blackened, or otherwise disguised ; 
 partly to prevent the possibility of recognition, but principally to impress the attacked with the 
 idea that the robbers were of the same neighbourhood — although, in reality, they had probably 
 never before been within a dozen miles of the place. 
 
 " Arrived at the l)ourg, or village, in which, to simplify the affair, we shall suppose that a single 
 house was to be the object of attack, some persons acquainted with the localities were sent to 
 muffle the church-bell, and kidnap the watchmen. These ' guardians of the night ' were very 
 like the King Logs we have now exchanged in London for an infinitely worse nuisance : they 
 slept themselves, and, on awaking, being indignant to find every body else asleep, roused the town 
 by bawling the hour. Having tied up the watchmen in a bundle, and thrown them into a corner, 
 the band marched openly upon the devoted house, surrounding it instantaneously with a cordon 
 militaire. 
 
 " No summons was given to surrender, no notification made of the coming attack. A tremendous 
 shout declared the presence and purpose of the enemy ; their torches, lighted at the same instant, 
 flared suddenly up like meteors in the night ; and the ram was applied to the principal entrance in 
 the midst of a volley of musketry. The firing was kept up without intermission, being now especially 
 directed to the windows in which any light was visible ; the astonished inmates, deprived of all 
 presence of mind by the sudden noise and confusion, stood staring at one another in dismay ; and 
 the rest of the town, believing that nothing less than a pitched battle was in progress in the streets, 
 barricaded their doors, extinguished their lights, and hid themselves in tiieir cellars. 
 
 " The door at length yielded to the repeated blows of the ram, and the captain led the way into 
 their land of Jewish promise. If any hesitation was evinced on the part of one of his followers, he 
 turned round, and blew out his brains on the instant — such power bging vested in him by tlie 
 laws of the society. This military execution, however, was rarely necessary. Within grasp of 
 their expected booty, the most timid became brave, and all rushed at once into the house, 
 fighting their way, if the inmates had recovered their senses, and were in sufficient force to resist. 
 
122 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 till they were in possession of the field. The victims — men, women, and children — were then 
 bound hand and foot, and wrapped up in mats or carpets ; the buikling was illuminated from the 
 garret to the cellar ; and the search for plunder commenced. 
 
 " Woe to the miserable wretches, if the promises of the haldover were not made good by the 
 amount of booty ! No oaths, no protestations, could convince the robbers that the deficient treasure 
 existed only in the imagination of the scoundrel Jew. Deaf at once to reason and to mercy, the 
 most horrible tortures, ending sometimes in death itself, were inflicted ; and so completely did the 
 passion take possession of their souls, that they looked almost with indifference upon their real 
 gains, in the eagerness of their longings after mure. 
 
 " When the booty was at length collected, packed, and ready to be transported, the captain 
 called ofF his bloodhounds. If any of these were seriously wounded, they were placed on the 
 shoulders of the rest: if an alarm of rescue was heard, they were slain; — on the principle that 
 ' dead men tell no tales.' When the rescue actually came, the banditti retired in military order, 
 and sometimes made good their retreat under the fire of regular troops. When unmolested, they 
 fired a feu dejoie, and began their marcli with fearful shouts and yells, waving their torches in the 
 air ; but, as soon as they had reached the place of rendezvous, the lights were simultaneously extin- 
 guished, their cries sunk into silence, and, separating into small groups, they vanished, like evil 
 spirits in the night." 
 
 
123 
 
 MAP 
 
 OF THE 
 
 BEAUTIES OF THE RHINE. 
 
 COLOGNE TO MAYENCE, 
 
 WITH NOTES OF REFERENCE. 
 
 On the evening before lie leaves Cologne, the Traveller will do well to scan 
 well the Map of that pox'tion of the Rhine which is best Avorth knowing. He can 
 then arrange his plans, and decide at what points he will stop. Bonn should be the 
 first, in order that he may visit the environs of that city ; Coblentz the next, from 
 whence he may, if he has time and inclination, make a voyage up the Moselle : 
 above Coblentz, almost every spot at which the steamer touches is worth 
 exploring, and certainly those who make the Rhine the object of their tour should 
 see it thoroughly. For this purpose it is perhaps the best plan to pass up the 
 river from Bonn to Mayence in the steamers, thus viewing the scenery from the 
 deck, and on returning to forsake the vessel between Bingen and Coblentz, and 
 travel along the banks. 
 
124 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 MAP OF THE RHINE, FROM COLOGNE TO MAYENCE. 
 
 COLOGNE 
 
 TocUyad, 
 
 JiedZundorf 
 Zvjijclxrf 
 
 Orau, 
 
 Kreu, htrq^ 
 
 Kessenirh '' 
 Hockkreuz 
 
 PliUfrsd, 
 
 R Gndtshtrg J I ,' J J 
 
 M'ehlem 
 
 Nonnerutei 
 
 W/VKoiiifswintep 
 
 ( ,</ \lt'olkmhurg Ci 
 
 y\hRohndor ^ ^ 
 
 '\ffonne ^^' 
 
 J(0landsftk\ il l'\ \] s 
 HoUiadswcrdi | Y>fliji^,,,arfilhach 
 OberwwUryM 1 Sc/ieuem 
 
 'Wukel 
 
 x i)Jleifter 
 
 Hem agc:i>v ^^H^Oci^nkU 
 
 N. B. At all places marked S. B. 
 are stations of the Cologne and Dus- 
 seldorf steamers. 
 
 Cologne (Colonia Agrippina), 
 {S.B.) the largest town of the Prus- 
 sian Rhenish provinces, is of Roman 
 origin. It has 72,000 inhabitants, 
 and has lately been made a fortress : 
 its circumference is live English 
 miles. 
 
 Curiosities. — The Cathedral, be- 
 gun in 1247, continued until 1437. 
 Its restoration commenced in 1827, 
 and the foundation stone of the future 
 works laid in 1842. — The Jesuit's 
 Church and Library. — St. Ursula 
 (bones of the 11,000 virgins). — 
 St. Gereon. — The Apostles' Church. 
 — St. Peter's Church. — St. ]\Iary in 
 the Capitol. — The Giirzenich. — The 
 Town Hall — The Walraff Museum 
 (pictures, antiquities). — The modern 
 buildings ai'c, the Casino, the Go- 
 vernment House, the Tlieatre, &c. — 
 Panorama by Meister. — Collections, 
 Haan, Baumeister, v. Geyr, Mei'lo, 
 Zanoli, v. Herwegh, Kaatz, Essingh, 
 Weyer, and Geerling. 
 
 Baths and Pump-rooms. — Arti- 
 ficial mineral water establishment, 
 in the Botanical Garden. Cold, 
 warm, and Russian baths, in No. 72. 
 Schiklergasso, and No 19. Marzel- 
 lenstrasse. Foiu' Rhine baths. 
 
 Traces of Amusement. — Deutz ; 
 Belle Vue, on the tower ; Rhine- Auc ; 
 Bayen House; Briihl ; Bcnsberg -.the 
 Abbey Alteuborg. now rebuilding. 
 
 Inns on the Jihine. — The Kiinig- 
 
MAP COLOGNE TO REMAGEN. 125 
 
 liche Ilof, Kolner Hof, Hollaendische Hof, Rhineberg, Russische Hof, Rheinische 
 Hof: in the town, the Kaiserliche Hof, Maintzer Hof, Dom Hotel, and the 
 Germanische Hof. 
 
 Steam Boats, S^c. — Three companies send their boats several times daily up 
 and down the Rhine ; a railroad to Aix ; the Post House is one of the most 
 extensive in Prussia. 
 
 Deutz, — opposite to and united with Cologne by a bridge of boats, is also 
 fortified, and has 3000 inhabitants. The cavalry workshops are worth seeing. 
 The Hotel de Belle Vue has a garden, is a good inn, and is much frequented as a 
 place of recreation, 
 
 Wesslingen (S.B.) — A large village, of 940 inhabitants, near which is the 
 small town Bruhl, with 2000 inhabitants, and a beautiful castle. 
 
 Bonn (S.B.) — University, of Roman origin, Bonna or Bonnensia Castra, with 
 15,000 inhabitants, without the students (800). — Curiosities. — The Minster, built 
 in the 13th centviry. — The University, and its paintings in fresco. — The Stern- 
 warte. — The Alte Zoll. — Beethoven's birth-place, Bonngasse, No. 815. — Public 
 Walks. — Poppelsdorf, Endenich, Roisdorf. — I?ms. — The Stern (Star), Trierscher 
 Hof (Hotel de Treves), the Kolnische Hof, the Maintzer Hof, the Rlieinische 
 Hof, the Alte Keller, and Hotel de Belle Vue. 
 
 Plittersdorf (S.B.) — A small village, and station for travellers by steam to 
 Godesberg. 
 
 Godesberg. — A cheerful village, with its castle, a splendid ruin. Near it the 
 Draitscher Brunnen, with pump-rooms and inns. Above Godesberg is the 
 Hochkreuz, a Gothic monument. 
 
 NiEDER DoLLENDORF. — A small village, near which are the ruins of the Abbey 
 of Heistei'bach, of the twelfth century. 
 
 Konigswinter (S.B.), a small town at the foot of the Drachenfels. Of the 
 Siebengebirge, or Seven Mountains, the Lowenberg is 1896, the Oelberg 1836, 
 the Wolkenburg 1842, the Drachenfels 1056 feet high. The latter is the most 
 interesting. Its summit is crowned with ruins, and commands a magnificent 
 view. On the Drachenfels is a good inn. 
 
 ROLANDSECK and NoNNENWERTH {S. B.), with the Seven Mountains, form one 
 of the finest points on the Rhine. The ruins of Rolandseck have recently been 
 restored, and the ancient convent Nonnenwerth converted into an inn. With 
 these two points is linked the famous tradition of Roland's love. 
 
 Appolinarisberg. — Formerly a provostship ; the church has lately been rebuilt 
 in the pointed arch style, at the expense of Count Fiirstenberg, after the plan of 
 INIi'. Zwirner, the present architect of the Cologne Cathedral. 
 
 Remagen {S.B.y — The Rigomagum of the Romans, a small but very ancient 
 town of 1700 inhabitants, with a curiously carved gateway near the pai'sonage. 
 
WaOer 
 Leuisdorl 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 rgendorf 
 \Schlc4r^cn/clf 
 Honningen 
 
 Rheinlrohl 
 Nieff Ifammerstdn 
 R HamnursUin 
 'b HanunersMn. ^,, . , 
 
 Leuttsdvrf 'Of'^'^'J"'' 
 
 Friednichstein gen Tetifels/ui^^ 
 A'etJtAausai 
 ch 
 Heddcsdorf 
 Neuwied 
 
 ' Engcrs 
 ' MuJil/iorcn. 
 
 BendorF 
 
 Vdllendar 
 MaUcnda 
 
 yifdenerlh 
 
 ^ '•'fJrbar 
 
 ^ . vesselic/v 
 
 ijy Kiedcrherg 
 
 " ^ EhreriBytitsUiw 
 
 " \-' PlnfhndoTffrIlak'r\~ 
 
 El'leiUKorf 
 orch}ieim> 
 
 liopparl ]']( rr-- 
 
 Manmhini \ -Jr. ' Ofi^n, , i' 
 " '" " LiibcntcK 
 
 Sahif), 
 
 ' ^ Kl'jsC BornhcfcTL 
 ' y/tK.St.ernbcrj 
 R.LUbemUin 
 
 'fi.;/i h'ttstcri 
 
 and a church in the 
 Byzantine style. Near 
 this i^lace is tlie 
 mouth of the Ahr, and 
 its romantic valley. 
 
 LnxTZ (^.^.)— A 
 small but very indus- 
 trious town, of 2400 
 inhabitants ; close by 
 are Linzerhausen, and 
 the ruins of Okken- 
 fels. 
 
 SixziG (lat. Senti- 
 acum). — Originally a 
 Roman castle, after- 
 wards a free Reich- 
 stadt, with 1600 in- 
 habitants. The church 
 is remarkable, and 
 contains a painting 
 which commemorates 
 the victory gained 
 by Constantine over 
 Maxentius. 
 
 Brohl. — Near this 
 are stone quarries, and 
 a very singular vol- 
 canic ravine. From 
 here the road leads to 
 the Lake and Abbey 
 of Laach, and to the 
 tomb of St. Genovefa. 
 
 Castle Reinkck 
 lias been rebuilt by 
 its owner, Professor 
 Bethmann-IIollwog ; 
 the barbican aloni' i> 
 ancient. Splendid 
 
 decorations, and a 
 nobU' view, invite llie 
 
MAP HAMMKRSTEIN TO NIEDERLAHNSTEIN. 127 
 
 traveller to enter. The steam-boats start from the village Niedrig Breisig 
 {S.B.). 
 
 Hammerstein. — A total ruin. Here Henry IV. reposed while escaping from 
 the hands of his son, in 1105. 
 
 Andernach (Antunacum, Antoniacum, S.B.) — A Roman castle. The archi- 
 tectui'al remains of the middle ages, the rampart and gates are remarkable : 3100 
 inhabitants. 
 
 Teufelshaus. — Properly Friedrichstein ; the ruin of a castle begun in the 
 17th century, and never finished. 
 
 Neuavied (S.B). — A cheerful modern town of 6400 inhabitants, in the prin- 
 cipality of Wied. Here all persuasions live in harmony. The Moravians live in 
 community. The palace contains a collection of natural curiosities and Roman 
 antiquities. Opposite is 
 
 Weissenthurm. — Of historical note, as the spot where the French crossed the 
 Rhine in 1797, and the monument erected to General Hoche. 
 
 Engers (S.B.) — A hamlet of 900 inhabitants. The palace, garden, and park 
 are worth visiting. 
 
 Sain (two miles from the Rhine). Here is an old castle with handsome 
 grounds, the ironfoundery, and near it the Abbey of Romersdorf. 
 
 CoBLENTZ (S.B.). — Once a Roman fort (Confluentes), at the mouth of the 
 Moselle, is fortified, and has 15,000 inhabitants. Curiosities. — The Church of 
 St. Kastor, the Kastorbrunnen, the Church of St. Florian, and of Notre Dame, the 
 Ordenshaus, the Moselle Bridge, the Palace, and Clemens Square. Collectiotis. — 
 The Town Picture Gallery, the Town Library, Van der Meulen, Diez, Bohl, 
 V. Lassaulx, Lasinsky, &c. Inns. — On the Rhine, the Riese (Giant), Belle Vue, 
 Trois Suisses, the Pariser Hof, the Rheinberg. In the town, the Trierische 
 Hof, the Kolnische Hof, the Wild Boar. Conveyances. — The Rhine steam-boats 
 run several times daily up and down ; the Moselle steam-boats daily : to Ems there 
 are coaches almost every hour in summer. 
 
 Thal Ehrenbreitstein, 2800 inhabitants, at the foot of the fortress of Ehren- 
 breitstein, which is built upon a rock 400 feet high, and has long been considered 
 impregnable. It Avas destroyed by the French at the peace of Luneville, and was 
 begun to be rebuilt in 1816. The labour of ascending it is rewarded by a most 
 magnificent view. 
 
 From Cologne to JNIayence the Rhine becomes narrower, and castles, ruins, 
 and villages follow in rich succession as far as Bingen, where the Rheingavi begins. 
 There is but space for slight notice of them in this part of the Volume. 
 
 Ha]vevierstein is the last Prussian village on the right bank of the river. 
 
 NiEDERLAHNSTEiN, with St. John's Church, is on the mouth of the Lahn ; from 
 here to Mayence the right bank belongs to the duchy of Nassau. 
 
128 
 
 THE RUtNE BOOK. 
 
 Einauichi 
 Primtiutan 
 
 R Rhcmrels\ 
 SI- Goar; 
 
 Oberwesel 
 
 S SchonAierg 
 
 Bacharach 
 Ji StnhUcU "^ 
 
 
 Stolzexfel?, one of the proudest ornaments of the Rhine. This castle was 
 destroyed in 1685, but has been rebuilt by King Frederic "William IV. It is 
 
 appropriately called " Stolze Fels " (Proud 
 Rock), and commands magnificent views. 
 Opposite to it is 
 
 Oberlahnstein, a small village, with the 
 ^\'^TAumicr<,odJiau. ^^^^^^^^ ^^,j^^^.^ Wcnccslaus was dcposcd. In 
 
 the back-ground the ruins of Lahneck are 
 visible. 
 
 Rhense, celebrated for its Konigs-stuhl 
 (King's Seat), which has lately been restored. 
 
 Braubach ( S. B.), a small town, with 
 1300 inhabitants, at the foot of the 
 
 INIarksburg, the only castle on the Rhine 
 in its primitive state. It is used as a state 
 prison, and is garrisoned by invalids ; the 
 chamber of torture is curious. 
 
 Wdmich 
 
 ,^R die Katz 
 S* Goarstausen 
 
 Larhyf 
 
 1 R Riiudc 
 
 Dorsckeid 
 
 aub 
 Gwbmhls 
 
 R Sautrhurg 
 .J-k.VaMcdo ^Saiifrthal 
 
 i? i^^7rf^,.i^*. A M^-^"'^"' 
 
 Bheindiehacfi 
 
 Sitd- Htimback 
 I< Htimhwrg'i 
 
 R SoTUUtlc "J 
 Trechlinqshiuistn, \ 
 
 Xaugen ScLwaUiach; 
 
 orch. 
 
 SchlangenbcbSi 
 
 Assma nshauseri' 
 
 \ % Rossel %- 
 
 \\-\R Ehrenfch -;. 
 "Tcwpel- ^ 
 ^ ^Kudesaci 
 
 mi 
 
 R 'Reirhtnstei'i, I 
 am ialkenburq 'r ■ 
 
 RRhcvnitein't h! 
 
 UauiiCkuTTnS 
 
 Bin|ea ;' 
 
 • WUnhtrni 
 
 lUUjilLiinL-::, 
 
 Crisqiheun ^ 
 
 limunihal 
 JchxuiTUjberg ^i^rbachl ^.^l^. 
 
 Wiesbaden 
 
 Kcmptm 
 
 DiuUnhtim 
 Mombarh 
 
 TV 
 
 Buhricfv 
 
 "C 
 
 AtAINZ (.^\.c 
 
 " nttbiUe 
 
 Cas(el 
 
 irorlilieiin 
 
MAP BOPPART TO STAHLECK. 129 
 
 At NiEDERSPEY, Peterspey, and Osterspey, the Rhine makes a great bend, 
 which continues as far as 
 
 BoPPART {S. B.), a small town of Roman origin, with 3500 inhabitants, and 
 surrounded with walls. The Pfarrkirche, the Tempelhof, and the ancient convent 
 of Marieuberg, are worthy of notice. 
 
 BoRNHOFEN has a convent, and lies at the foot of the two ruins 
 
 Sternenberg and Liebenstein, also called the Brothers ; they are interesting 
 from their position, and the story connected with them. 
 
 Welmich, with 4.50 inhabitants, and a fine church tower, lies at the foot of the 
 
 Ruins of Thurnberg : it was built in 1563, and the walls are still entire. It 
 was also called " the Mouse," in contrast to another, " the Cat," near St. Goars- 
 hausen. 
 
 St. Goar {S. B.), a small town, with 1300 inhabitants, lying in the midst of the 
 glories of the Rhine, is peculiarly adapted for a halting- place. The Catholic 
 Church, St. Goar, and the Evangelican Church, are worthy of notice, and the 
 
 Fortress of Riieinfels, the most extensive ruin on the Rhine, built in 1245. 
 In 1255 and in 1692 it was in vain besieged, but in 1797 it was abandoned 
 without an effort to the French, who destroyed it. 
 
 St. Goarshausen, opposite St. Goar, forms the entrance to the beautiful 
 Schweitzer-Thai. On the hill are the 
 
 Ruins of Katz (Cat), properly Katzenellenbogen, destroyed by the French 
 in 1806. 
 
 The Lurleifelsen, celebrated for its traditions, and remarkable echo. Near 
 it are the Seven Rocks in the Rhine, called also the Seven Virgins. 
 
 Oberwesel (*S'. B,) has 2300 inhabitants, and is of Roman origin. The Lieb- 
 frauen Church, Martin's Church, and Werner's Chapel, are worthy of notice. 
 Near it arise the 
 
 Ruins of Schunberg, or Schomburg. 
 
 Caub (<S'. B.) has 1500 inhabitants, and is the point where Bliicher in 1814, on 
 New Year's Eve, crossed the Rhine. Over Caub is the 
 
 Ruin of Gutenfels, said by tradition to be so named after the fair Guda, 
 beloved by Richard of Cornwall. In the Rhine lies 
 
 The Pfalz, built in 1326, probably for a toll-house. According to tradition 
 the Palatine countesses, and even the German empresses, for safety here awaited 
 their accouchements. A sketch of it is given on page 1. 
 
 Bacharach {S. B.), an ancient town, with 1700 inhabitants, is still provided with 
 walls and twelve towers. The Gothic churcli of St. Werner is peculiarly worthy 
 of notice. Above the town, on a hill, lies the 
 
 Ruin of Staiileck, eight times besieged and taken iu the Thirty Years' War, 
 and totally destroyed during the reign of Louis XIV. 
 
130 
 
 Tin; JilllXK HOOK. 
 
 LoRCH (<S'. B.), 1800 inliabitants, at the mouth of the AVisper, in the entrance 
 to the romantic Sauerthal. The church is the most ancient on the Rhine, and 
 was built in the ninth century. Here are situated on one side the 
 
 Ruins of Roi.lingkx, and on the other the 
 
 Ruins of Fursteneck. 
 
 The Ruins of IIeimburg, destroyed in 1282 by the Emperor Rudolph, are 
 followed by the Ruins of Sonneck, Falkenberg, and Clemen's Chapel : then comes 
 
 Rheinstein, or Vautsbekg, rebuilt and furnished with a collection of military 
 equipments, and objects of art, by the King of Prussia. Opposite lies 
 
 AssMANSHAUSEN, Celebrated for its excellent red wine, and is the halting-place 
 for ascending the 
 
 N1EDERWAI.D, so celebrated for its noble prospect. On this hill lies the Ruins 
 of Ehrenfels, also the Temple, and the Rossel. In the Rhine lies 
 
 The Mausethurm (the Mouse Tower), to indicate a point of the Bingerloch, 
 once so dangerous to navigators, but at present rendered safe. With this tower 
 are connected the traditions of Bishop Hatto and the Seven Watchmen. 
 
 BiNGEN {S. B.), 5000 inhabitants, at the mouth of the Nahe, one of the glories 
 of the Rhine ; forms the boundary between Prussia and Hessen-Darmstadt. A 
 visit to Rochusberg, Rupertsberg, Elisenhohe, and the Ruins of Klopp, is well 
 repaid. An excursion to the charming Nahethal must delight the tourist. 
 
 RuDESHEiM, opposite Bingen, with 2400 inhabitants, is celebrated fur its 
 wines. 
 
 The Ruins of Bromserburg, a castle of the 11th century, and lately fitted u|i 
 in a cheerful style by the Countess of Ingelheini. With it is connected the tradi- 
 tion of Gisela. Close by is the Boosenburg, and at no great distance the ancient 
 convent, Noth Gottes. 
 
 Geisenhei.m (S. B.), a cheerful town of 2500 inhabitants, with handsome 
 country houses, and a churcli of the 15th century, with a modern tower. An 
 interesting collection of painted glass belonging to the Freiherr v. Zwierlein. 
 Near this is the 
 
 Johannisbekg Castle, celebrated for its wine. It was erected in 1106 as a 
 convent, and came, after varied destinies, into possession of Prince Metternich in 
 1816. The internal arrangements ai-e splendid, without being overcharged; the 
 prospect charming. In the church is a monument to Nicholas \'ogt. 
 
 In MiTTEiJiKiM is an ancient and remarkable church, built in 1140. Here at 
 short distances are seen the village of Oestrich {S. B.), and of Ilattenheim, with 
 the splendid property called Schloss Reichartshausen, belonging to Count Scluin- 
 born ; and on the left bank is observed 
 
 NiEDEK-IxGEMiELM, witli 2000 inhabitants, and scanty remains ot the gorgeuu-s 
 Imperial P;ilace of Charlenjagne. The tomb, also, of llildtgardis. Opposite is 
 
MAP EUBACII TO MAYICNCK 
 
 lai 
 
 EiiBACH, and the Markobrunn Hills, celebrated for their wine. 
 
 KiDRiCH. The Cliurch and Michael's Chapel are Gothic monuments of the 
 loth and 16th centuries. 
 
 Ellfeld (Eltwill, S. B.), 2000 inhabitants. A castle with Gothic watch tower. 
 Fine villas, and a collection of pictures belonging to Count Elz. 
 
 Nieder-Walluff {S. B.), with 800 inhabitants, and nice country houses. 
 Near by the village Schierstein, 1000 inhabitants. The collection of antiquities 
 and paintings belonging to the Archivist Habel is interesting. 
 
 BiEBERiCH (S. B.) has 3000 inhabitants, and was formerly the residence of the 
 Duke of Nassau. The palace is tastefully and richly fitted up, and the gardens 
 are very pleasant. A railroad to Wiesbaden. 
 
 Mayence {S. B. Moguntia), the principal town of the Grand Duchy of Hesse- 
 Darmstadt, opposite the junction of the Main with the Rhine; has 36,000 inhabit- 
 ants ; is the chief fortress of the German Confederation, and has a Prussian and 
 Austrian garrison. It is of Roman origin. It is an important place of trade, and 
 renowned for the discovery of the art of printing. Remarkable objects. — The 
 Cathedral, six times burnt down, is restored, and contains the tombs of Fastrade 
 and Henr. Frauenlob : St. Stephen's Church, with its lofty tower : St. Ignatius, 
 St. Peter, and St. Emmeran. The old and new Palaces, the Arsenal, the Palace 
 of Justice, the Library, and Gutemburg's Monument. Public Walhs. — The 
 Neue Anlage, the Eichelstein, the Wasserleitung, the Rhine Bridge. Inns. — 
 The Rheinische, the Holliindische, the European, and Hessische Hof, the Queen 
 Victoria, the Stadt Mannheim, and Stadt Maintz, &c. 
 
 Castell (2000 inhabitants) is opposite to and united with Mayence by a bridge 
 of boats, and is fortified. Here is the station of the Taunus railroad to Wiesbaden 
 and Frankfort. 
 
 \ ■ 
 
132 
 
 THK RHINE BOOK. 
 
 BONN AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. 
 
 The 
 
 i 
 
 HE city of Bonn has the honour of being the birth-phiee of Beethoven, 
 who first saw the light on the seventeenth of December, 1770. One 
 of the tliree great German musicians of modern time, the townsmen 
 are naturally prouJ of his name and memory, although the maestro 
 deserted his native place early in life to make his home at Vienna, 
 musician Avill linger about the house, Bonngasse, No. 815, whei'C Beethoven 
 born and spent his youthful days, and where he conned his first lessons 
 in the divine science he was destined to advance. The 
 scholar will feel an interest in the University, where up- 
 wards of seven hundred students are busy, where Niebuhr 
 and SciiLEGEL have taught, and the Prince Consort of 
 England, Prince Albert, received his education. The 
 antiquary will visit the Cathedral, founded by the mother 
 of Constantine the Great, and will inspect the Museum of 
 Rhenish antiquities. Every traveller may well follow 
 their example ; but whether he does or not, he must 
 not fail to see the view of the Rhine from the rami)arts, 
 or to make excursions round Bonn, 
 never omitting a ramble to the valley 
 of the Ahr ; and another to the Dra- 
 chenfels. The scene from the ramparts 
 was partially anticipated by the tourist 
 from the deck before Bonn was reached ; 
 but it loses none of its interest by that 
 glance, which gives only a foretaste of 
 what the Traveller has be- 
 fore him. A walk through 
 the wood to the summit of 
 the Kreutzberg is repaid 
 by a charming prospect, 
 including the outlines of 
 the Sieben-gebcrgcn — 
 the Seven INIountains. 
 
 These hills of lava and 
 basalt have their tale of 
 faithlessness, jealousy, and 
 
 revenge. 
 
 MkjNN UAl'HBUUllL, 
 
 Stimulated liy religions 
 
THE SEVEN MOINTAINS. 
 
 133 
 
 
 
 zeal, the lord of a castle on 
 the Seven Mountains enlisted 
 in the ranks of the Crusaders, 
 and fought gallantly in the 
 van of those who sought 
 
 to place the cross upon the 
 
 walls of the Holy City. 
 
 After long years of absence 
 
 he returned, to find that a 
 
 neighbouring chieftain had in his absence 
 
 estranged from him the faith of his lady, 
 
 who, to escape his wrath, fled to a 
 
 convent. The seducer escaped, and the 
 
 innocent evidence of infidelity was secreted 
 
 for many years ft-om the sight of the injured 
 
 husband. But he nursed his sense of wounded 
 
 Iionour, and in his old age meeting a youth near 
 
 Godesburg in whom he recognised a likeness to 
 
 his wife, he questioned him, and finding that it was 
 
 the boy he so long had sought, without pity for 
 
 his youth, he visited the sin of the mother upon her 
 
 offspring and slew him in the high road, on the spot 
 
 where the Hoch Kreuz now stands — a monument which 
 
 tradition says was erected to hold the deed in memory 
 
 as a warning to weak wives and faithless friends. 
 
 Dkachenfels is a name fjimiliar " as a household 
 word" to the ear of the Englishman. This fame has 
 been created by the often quoted lines of Byron, who 
 wandered up the Rhine in a fit of poetry and indigestion, 
 which did not, however, prevent him from painting the scenery with 
 jy^j^ the power and truthfulness of a master. One part of his picture, 
 
 however, is unfaithful. Unhappily, the " peasant girls with deep blue eyes " are 
 seen toiling through the heaviest labours of husbandry, instead of finding leisure 
 for the more poetical employment of gathering or offering " early flowers." 
 
 The castled crag of Drachenfels 
 Frowns o'er the wide and windnig Rhine. 
 Whose breast of waters broadly swells, 
 Between the banks which bear the vine, 
 And hills all rich with blossom'd trees. 
 And fields which promise corn and wine. 
 And scatier'd cities crowning these, 
 Whose far white walls along them shine. 
 Have strew'd a scene which 1 should see 
 With double joj' wert thou w ith me. 
 
134 
 
 rilK IJIITNK HOOK. 
 
 And peasant girls with cippp blue eyes. 
 And hands wliicli oflVr early flowers. 
 Walk smiling o'er this paradise ; 
 Above, the frequent feudal towers 
 Through green leaves lift their walls of 
 
 gray. 
 And many a rock which steeply lour!:, 
 And noble arch in proud decay. 
 Look o'er this vale of vintage-bowers ; 
 But one thing want these banks of 
 
 Khine, — 
 Thy gentle hand to clasp in mine ! 
 
 The river nobly foams and flows, 
 The charm of this enchanted ground. 
 And all its thousand turns disclose 
 .Some fresher beauty varying round : 
 The haughtiest breast its wish might 
 
 bound 
 Through life to dwell delighted here ; 
 Nor could on earth a spot be found 
 To nature and to me so dear. 
 Could thy dear eyes in following mine 
 .Still sweeten more these banks of Khine ! 
 
 RoLATsDSECK has a fine 
 view and a legend, wliicli it 
 enjoys in common with the 
 
 CONVENT ON THE ISLAND OF 
 NONNENWERTH. 
 
 The glory of the lists and 
 the admiration of the fair dames and maidens who gazed 
 upon the contests of chivalry, the youthful Roland had 
 nought to desire but the love of some fixir being whose 
 beauty and whose virtues could deserve and retain the 
 heart of so brave and gallant a young knight. Nor did 
 he look long round about in vain, for Hilda, the daughter 
 of the lord of the Drachcnfels, was all that dreams had pic- 
 tured to his youthful fancy as worthy of an ardent souVs 
 devotion ; and soon he was made happy by a confession from 
 the maiden that his passion was returned. Lost in a dream 
 of first love, the knight forgot the world and its struggles, 
 and in the expectation of an early day for his wedding 
 with his mistress, he had no care for the morrow, but 
 lived a life of perfect joy; — now gazing with Hilda upon the windings of the 
 Rhine ; now watching her as she stooped gracefully to tend the flowers which 
 peace allowed to flourish under the walls of her father's abode ; now wandering 
 with his arm round tlie t!i])er waist of his affianced bride, talking of the hnpi)incss 
 in store for them. 
 
 But Roland lived in times when love was but the bright, transient epi.sodc of m 
 life of war. The laws of chivalry forbade a true knight's neglect ol" duty, and in 
 
THE LEGEND OF ROLAND. 
 
 135 
 
 the week he was to be wedded, the fatal summons came to call him to his post in 
 the field. The struggle was bitter, but short. " You would love me less, dear 
 Hilda, if you knew me recreant even for your sake ; " and with bitter regrets 
 cheered by hope of a speedy 
 return, he left his mistress 
 
 ,^.^i'^-- 
 
 in her home on the Dra- 
 chenfels. 
 
 The war was long, for the 
 enemy was brave and the 
 forces were nearly equal, and 
 it was not for three years 
 that the laws of honour 
 would allow Roland to leave the camp. But 
 the long-sought day came at last, and with 
 a bounding heart he set out upon his way 
 back to the Rhine. Light in his stirrups rode he 
 that journey, and still lighter were the songs with 
 which he strove to temper his impatience and beguile 
 his way. Late on the fourth day he came in sight of 
 the home of his ladye-love, and swimming his war-horse 
 boldly across the rapid stream he bounded 
 on foot up the steep. 
 
 Frightful Avas the wel- 
 come he received. The 
 castle was in ruins ; its lord 
 was slain ; and Hilda, de- 
 ceived by reports of Ro- 
 land's death, had taken the 
 veil in the neighbouring 
 convent of Nonnenwerth ! 
 
 Over the bright path of 
 the young knight a dark 
 and lasting shadow was cast. 
 His early hopes were broken 
 — the joy of his existence 
 had fled — his spirit bent 
 beneath tiie weight of his evil fortune. But his faith and constancy were beyond 
 the control of Fate. Retiring to his castle of Rolandseck he made himself a 
 resting-place before a window from which he could look down upon the island of 
 Nonnenwerth and the convent that held in the chains of the church his beloved 
 
 IHE OONTtNl OS IBE loI.ANIi Of NONNl- 
 
136 Tilt; ninxK book. 
 
 Hilda. "Whether she heard of his return, tradition docs not say, but such 
 constancy did perhaps waft its rumour through the jealous watchfulness of a 
 nunnery wall. Be that as it may, it is chronicled that, after Roland's watch had 
 been for three years prolonged, he heard one evening the tones of the bell that 
 tolled for a passing soul, and next day the white figures of the nuns were seen 
 bearing a sister to her last home. 
 
 Roland felt that it was Hilda's funeral, and when his servants, alarmed by his 
 watch being prolonged deep into the night, came to urge his retirement to rest, 
 they saw his eyes were fixed on Hilda's grave in death: — a smile brightening 
 his features, as though his spirit's last influence upon his frame had left a happy 
 anticipation of the meeting of two kindred souls in those realms of immortality 
 where " all that is of earth, earthy " has no leave to enter. 
 
 Note. — In reference to the Valley of the Ah% (another excursion in tliis locality,) it may he well 
 to (juote a passage from a clever letter by one of the Travelling Correspondents of the AtheniEum: — 
 
 " I have already pointed out one or two by-ways in the Rhine-land worth exploring, and, at 
 least, a word of notice for the benefit of future tourists, sketchers, &c. The latter, in particular, 
 will have reason to tliank you if you further direct them to the Ahr valley — a passage of scenery 
 greatly in favour among the Dutch, but which the English seem hardly ever to reach, if one may 
 judge by the names in the Fremden-huch of that best of all country inns, the Sternat Ahrweiler. 
 There can be nothing of its kind more striking and original than the view from the castle, which 
 is the closing point of the excursion at Altinahr — a splendid fragment of ruin, triuniiiliing upon 
 a scarcely accessible crag, at the foot of which the clear stream wanders in the most capricious 
 sinuosities. The lieap of stones whicli was Saff'enburg is perched on an eyrie little less imijosiiiir 
 from its height, and peculiar from the windings of the stream. Ahrweiler, too, is beautifullv 
 situated; and besides the attraction of capital sleeping quarters which it offers in the inn aforesaid, 
 the ardiitect would find no worthless subject for his meditations in the church, by tlie earlv mass 
 in whicli he will jjossibly be waked at five o'clock a. m., or thereabouts, if not worn out by his 
 ramble. The tower is in the Romanesque style; eight-sided, and singularly harmonious in its 
 ])roportions. Apropos of this same tower, I have wondered again and again, durin<' the last 
 
 fortnight, to see how strangely the German architects of our own day overlook their own models 
 
 at best, how infelicitously they copy them. It would be hard, I suspect, to find a good new 
 building in tliis simjile and most cHectlve style of architecture. Nor has it hitherto been, appa- 
 rently, much affected in this district, if we except Professor Bethman Ilollweg's show-hox at 
 llheincck, where the forms and arrangements which, without force of language, are, beyond all 
 others, mystically ecclesiastic, have been pressed into the service of modern domestic luxury. Tlie 
 twin spires of the church at Geissenhciin, an object of much admiration, are a minikin attempt 
 at tlie spire of Strasl)urg Min.ster. The chajiel recently patched on to tlie princely castle of the 
 Rheinstein, is as frivolous and piccolo as if it had been modelled for a presse papier, or the cotton-box 
 of one of the indefatigable tapestry-working fhiiikin with whom the hniil abounds. Little less 
 felicitous appears to me the eking-out and Mihstitiitions at the Stolzeiifols. Nor is it cai)tious to 
 call attention to these, since the mania for building in critical situations seems spreading. \\'e 
 hear that Godesberg is to be repaired, and put in hal)ital)le order ; and that the K;itz aliove St. 
 Goarsliausen lias found a purchaser bent ujion its heaulilication." 
 
BONN. 
 
 137 
 
 INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER. 
 
 1. CATHEDRAt. 
 
 2. Church of the Minorites. 
 
 3. Church of the Jesoits. 
 
 4. PoaT Office. 
 
 5. Barracks. 
 
 6. University. 
 
 7. Promenade. 
 
 8. School of Anatomt. 
 
 9. TowK Hall. 
 10 Police Office, 
 11. Theatre. 
 
 1"3. Tribunal. 
 
 13. GTMNAaiUM. 
 
 14. EoTAL Post Office 
 
 15. Hospital op St. James. 
 
 10. House of Corkection 
 
 17. Cavalrt Barracks, 
 
 18. Mine Office. 
 
 19. EVANQELICAJ. ChURCH, 
 
 20. Landino Place of Cologne Com- 
 
 pany's Steamers. 
 21 Landing Place of Dusselldorff 
 Company's Steamers. 
 
 BONN. 
 
 HOTELS. 
 
 The Star Hotel, by M. Schmitz. 
 Treves Hotel. 
 Grand Hotel Royal. 
 Hotel Belle Vue. 
 
 CHIEF THINGS TO BE SEEN IN BONN. 
 
 The University, formerly the Palace of the 
 Archbishop of Cologne. Prince Albert was 
 educated here. 
 
 The Frescoes in the Hall of the University, 
 
 executed by the pupils of Cornelius, and repre- 
 senting the four learned Faculties — Theology, 
 Philosophy, Jurisprudence, and Medicine. 
 
 The Museum of Popplesdorf. 
 
 The Munster Church. 
 
 The Statue of Beethoven. 
 
 The neighbourhood of Bonn has several 
 spots worthy a visit, particularly Godesburg, 
 Nonnenwerth, the Drachenfels, Rolandseck, 
 and the Valley of the Ahr. 
 
138 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 The Unmveksity of Bonn, 
 being the chief point of interest in the place, 
 some particulars of the institution, condensed 
 from a volume on the subject by a " Member 
 of the Middle Temple," may find place here. 
 This learned corporation (of which the King of 
 Prussia is the great patron) consists of, 
 
 1st. Professors appointed and paid by the 
 government, and who are called Professors in 
 ordinary. 
 
 2dly. Of Extraordinary professors, also ap- 
 pointed by the government, — some receiving 
 salaries, and others not. The number of paid 
 professors at present in the University is fifty- 
 seven. Superadded to these are probationary 
 instructors, academically called Privatim Do- 
 centes, who get no salaries until qualified by 
 their standing to become paid professors. Both 
 classes of government instructors — professors in 
 ordinary and professors extraordinary — are per- 
 mitted to deliver lectures in each and all of the 
 four Faculties, |)rovidcd they shall have proved, 
 upon examination, that they have a sufficient 
 knowledge of the subject or subjects upon 
 which they propose to give what are called 
 "explications." As an indispensable qualifica- 
 tion, before they are permitted to receive pupils 
 in private, the instructors composing the class 
 of Priva/hn Docentes must have either the degree 
 of Doctor or be I^icentiates, and must also 
 show that they had finislied their studies two 
 years previously. In the two Faculties of 
 Jurisprudence and Medicine, the Privatim Do- 
 centes are obliged to confine themselves to 
 lectures, the object of which is merely to 
 ascertain whether the students have acquired 
 such knowledge as will qualify them for exami- 
 nation, preparatory to their a])i)caring as can- 
 didates for degrees, and if not, to assist them in 
 attaining it. Tiiese lectures, according to the 
 plan upon which they are delivered, are called 
 " Examinatoria and liepetitoria." The Privatim 
 Docentes, deriving no emolument from the 
 State, are only proi)ationers, as has been already 
 observed, but there arc paid assistants of the 
 several Faculties, wlio, as well as the professors, 
 are included under the second head. 
 
 The other component academical bodies 
 are — 
 
 3dly. All matriculated students. 
 4thly. All official persons belonging to the 
 University, such as the secretary, bedel, questor, 
 &c. 
 
 Supreme Aulhoril;/. — Tliis is vested in the 
 Minister of Public Worship at Berlin, but prac- 
 tically delegated to the Curator, as first resident 
 officer under the government, and acting co- 
 ordinately with the academical senate, composed 
 of professors, with the Rector at their head, and 
 assisted by a judge appointed by the crown. 
 
 On the 18th of October of each year, being 
 the anniversary of the inauguration of the Uni- 
 versity, the rector's term of office expires, and a 
 new one is appointed. The Rector is the officer 
 next in rank to the Curator, and his title is 
 " His Magnificence," the Latin adjective being 
 Magnijicus, the term always applied to him. 
 
 The Senate. — The academical senate is com- 
 posed of twelve persons — viz. 
 
 1st. The rector, who presides over all its 
 deliberations, as next in rank to the curator. 
 2d. The rector of the preceding year. 
 Sd. Five deans, one of whom belongs to the 
 Faculty of Roman Catholic theology. 
 4th. Four professors who are not deans. 
 5th. The judge appointed by the crown. 
 Faculties. — For the diffi^rent sciences there 
 are different faculties, which form a corporation 
 distinct from that of the University, but directly 
 as well as indirectly dependent upon it. Of 
 this internal corporation the Dean is the chief 
 officer. He is allowed, under the authority of 
 the University, to confer all degrees except the 
 highest, that of doctor. In the faculties of 
 theology and juris])rudence he may confer the 
 degree of licentiate, and in the faculty of i)hilo- 
 sophy, that of master. 
 
 Every faculty is obliged to arrange its course 
 of lectures upon every science appertaining to 
 it, in sucii a manner as that the student may 
 be enabled to go through the whole science 
 within the term of three years. The Dean 
 has change of the register of his faculty, as also 
 of all letters and jiapers officially addressed to 
 
UNIVERSITY OF BONN. 
 
 139 
 
 him, and is at liljerty to originate discussions 
 upon them, if necessary. Besides the power of 
 conferring degrees under the rank of doctor, 
 it rests with him either to permit or not allow 
 applicants to give instruction as Privatim Do- 
 centes ; but in either case he is responsible to 
 the University for the exercise of this discre- 
 tionary power. He is also responsible for the 
 system upon wliich all young persons in his 
 faculty pursue their studies, as well as for their 
 academical conduct, so far as regards attention 
 or neglect, but nothing more. In all other 
 respects the student may do as he pleases, with- 
 out any responsibility attaching to the Dean. 
 
 Faculty of Philosophi/. — This far transcends 
 all the others, in the estimation of the learned, 
 not only here, but all over Germany, and is 
 considered to be of the very highest importance. 
 There is not a single subject connected with 
 art or science into which it does not enter; 
 though, as has been before stated, some subjects 
 are not brought systematically within its com- 
 pass. The lectures of this faculty are much 
 more numerously attended than those of any of 
 the others, and hence the necessity of there 
 being so large a number of learned persons 
 to deliver them as eighteen qualified professors. 
 These, with only two exceptions, discourse 
 indiscriminately upon every branch of science 
 according to the circumstances of the occasion, 
 and evince consummate ability in all. 
 
 Of the eighteen there are two who are pro- 
 fessors of Philosophy, properly so called in its 
 more limited sense, and who confine themselves 
 to that branch exclusively, except in one par- 
 ticular instance. They are bound to give, in 
 turn, special lectures on the philosophy of re- 
 ligion ; and in order that opposite systems may 
 be equally represented upon this most import- 
 ant of all subjects, one is of the Protestant, and 
 the other of the Roman Catholic faculty of 
 theology. The University, as a body, does not 
 give a preference to eithe--, or countenance the 
 one more than the other in the slightest respect. 
 At the present moment both chairs are filled 
 by two very celebrated men in their respective 
 departments. These are, Dr. Brandis, on the 
 
 Protestant side, and Dr. Clemens, who repre- 
 sents the Roman Catholic faculty : the former 
 so well and favourably known to the learned 
 for his History of Philosophy ; and the latter 
 raised to great eminence in the estimation, not 
 only of profound scholars of his own persuasion, 
 but also in that of persons who totally diflTer 
 from them. He is quite a young man. 
 
 The professors filling other chairs which 
 belong to the facidty of philosophy lecture on 
 the following subjects : — 
 
 Mathematics and astronomy. 
 
 Classics, with philology and archaeology. 
 
 Oriental literature and languages. 
 
 Modern oratory and literature. 
 
 History, and all subjects connected with it. 
 
 Physics. 
 
 Chemistry. 
 
 Natural history and zoology. 
 
 Botany. 
 
 Mineralogy. v 
 
 Politics and statesmansliip. 
 
 Technology and economy. 
 
 The lecturer upon politics and statesmanship 
 is Professor Dahlmann, whose expulsion from 
 the University of Gottingen made so much 
 noise at the time. His position here has con- 
 siderably enhanced the reputation he had pre- 
 viously acquired. 
 
 Besides the University itself there are three 
 other buildings within a very short distance of 
 it, in which public lectures are delivered, prin- 
 cipally upon professional and scientific subjects. 
 These are, the School of Anatomy, the Obser- 
 vatory, and the Chateau of Popplesdorf; the 
 latter, a splendid structure in a most beautiful 
 situation, at the upper end of a noble avenue 
 with double rows of trees on each side, and 
 terminating one of the finest vistas wliidi it is 
 possible to behold. The three buildings, as 
 well as the grounds appertaining to them, in- 
 cluding the invaluable Botanical Garden of 
 Popplesdorf, are the property of the University. 
 In the litter there are seventeen lecture-rooms, 
 of different sizes, some on the ground-floor, and 
 others on the one above it ; the smallest is 
 capable of accommodating fifty persons, and 
 
140 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 the largest three hundred. In the same build- 
 ing spacious and suitable apartments are also 
 appropriated to the following purposes : — 
 clinical lectures, hospital for clinical patients, 
 library, museum for Roman antiquities dis- 
 covered on the Rhine, museum for Greek 
 antiquities, obstetric room (lying-in hospital) 
 for pauper patients, Lutheran church (in this 
 divine service is also performed according to 
 the rites of the Church of England). To the 
 apartments here enumerated must be added 
 those which are provided as places of residence 
 for certain oflicial functionaries of the Uni- 
 versity. At the head of them is the Curator, 
 the highest officer of the University, and co- 
 ordinate in authority with the academical 
 senate. He holds a rank somewhat analogous 
 to that of chancellor at the University of 
 Oxford or of Cambridge, and has a magnificent 
 residence. 
 
 Bonn is in Rhenish Prussia, on the left 
 bank of the Rhine, and contains 12,000 inha- 
 bitants. 
 
 It was formerly the residence of the Electors 
 of Cologne, after their removal from that city 
 in 1268. 
 
 At the end of a fine avenue of chestnut-trees 
 is the chateau of Popplesdorf, which contains a 
 museum of natural history ; it has a botanic 
 garden attached to it, situated about three- 
 (juarters of a mile from the town. A short 
 distance beyond this is a church, placed on the 
 summit of the Kreutzberb, one of the hills 
 behind Popplesdorf, which commands some 
 
 fine views ; it is also visited for the curiosities 
 it contains. The sacred stairs which lead up 
 to Pilate's Judgment Hall are stained with 
 spots of blood which fell from the wounds on 
 the brow of the S;»viour, caused by the crown 
 of thorns : such is the Catholic tradition con- 
 cerning them ; no person is allowed to ascend 
 them except on their knees. 
 
 The Prussian INIilitarv Svstesi. — In 
 Prussia every man capable of bearing arras, 
 (with certain exceptions specified by law,) is 
 called out into active service at the age of 
 twenty. These men compose the active, or, to 
 speak in our language, the standing army. 
 After serving three years, they return to their 
 respective homes, and form the King's Reserve 
 (wor reserve) till the age of 25. At 25 they 
 are freed from active service, and incorporated 
 in the Landwehr of the first levy (Aufgebot). 
 In peace they receive no pay, except during 
 their times of annual drill. Only the staff is 
 regularly paid, and belongs to the active army, 
 in which also it takes promotion. The Land- 
 wehr of the first levy is called out for exercise 
 about a month in every year. At 32, the men 
 pass into the second levy, in which they remain 
 till the age of 39. The second levy is not 
 called out to drill. In case of war, the Land- 
 wehr of the first levy acts with the regular 
 troops. The second levy is confined to home 
 service, and can only be marched against the 
 enemy in case of imminent danger. This is the 
 military organization of Prussia. 
 
BONN TO COBLENTZ. 
 
 141 
 
 BONN TO COBLENTZ. 
 
 HEN the Traveller leaves Bonn on his voyage up the Rhine he has an 
 opportunity of seeing from the river several points wliich he was 
 recommended to include in his previous rambles round that town. 
 He steams by Nonnerwerth and the Drachenfels, and may listen, if 
 he will, to the Tradition of the Dragon who gave its name to the rock. 
 Tliis "dainty eater" fed upon the choicest specimens of humanity, until a beautiful 
 maiden being after a long contest assigned to it, she held before its godless sight 
 the holy sign of the cross, whereat the monster was not only abashed, but conquered 
 — leaping, fi'om a cave where it lived, into the Rhine, from whose waters it has 
 never since arisen. As he passes Nun Island (Nonnerwerth) he may give ear to 
 the anecdote of the kindly-hearted Josephine, who prevailed upon Napoleon to 
 allow the helpless nuns to continue in the home on the island when all the other 
 religious houses on the Rhine were cleared of their occupants, and devoted to 
 other purposes. In quick succession he passes the Gothic church of Appoli- 
 narisberg amidst its woods ; the town of Remagen ; the basaltic precipices of 
 the Erpeler Lei, seven hundred feet in height, in the holes of which baskets of 
 earth are placed, and thus grapes grown on the steep bare rocks ; the ruins of the 
 castle of Ockenfels ; the old town of Linz, with its cross in memory of the battle 
 
 -^S^tes-- „.._^ 
 
 of Leipsig ; the castle of Rhei- 
 neck, recently restored by a 
 Professor of Bonn ; and the 
 village of Brohl, interesting to 
 the geologist from its volcanic 
 soil, which, when ground into 
 powder, is called trass, and 
 fetches a good price for use as 
 a cement, because it hardens 
 under water. Its quarries 
 afford the stone used by the 
 ancients for coffins on account 
 of its power to absorb the 
 moisture of the corpse, and so 
 preserve it. Hence the term Sarcophagus— eater of flesh. 
 " The Castle of Hammerstein is a very prominent object seated 
 
 upon a bold rock. It was the asylum, A. d. 1106, of Henry IV., when he became 
 
142 
 
 THE ItlllKE BOOK. 
 
 the victim of the rising power of the Church of Rome and was driven from his 
 kingdom by the power of Pope Gregory VII., wlio offered tlie crown to Rudolph 
 of Suabia, with the inscription — 
 
 HAMUERSTlLlN Cl.l Kd. 
 
 " Pctra dedit Pctro — Petrus diademi Rhodolpho." 
 
 The emperor begged bread and slielter of the Bisliop of vSpeyer, whose see his 
 
 ancestors had established — and 
 was refused. The Pope had 
 excommunicated him ; and had 
 he not found refuge in Ham- 
 merstein, would have perished 
 by the way-side. 
 
 Behind Nieder Ilammer- 
 stein is a huge rock, higher 
 than that on which the castle 
 stands, and these twin heights 
 are the extremities of a semi- 
 circle formed of hills. 
 
 The village of Namedy. on 
 the right bank, was the great 
 place of muster for tlie huge 
 rafts of timber often spoken of in connection with the Rhine. The materials for 
 these floating towns came down the Murg, Neckar, Maine, Saar, and Moselle, 
 and all joining at Namedy, formed a raft of enormous size and gx'eat value. " A 
 capital of 26,000^. to 34,000/. was requisite to construct and equip one of these 
 floating villages. The consumption of provisions by the people, amounting fre- 
 quently to 900, employed on board, from the time the raft first starts until it 
 reaches Dordrecht, where it is broke up, and the timber sold and transported 
 abroad, is calculated at 40,000 to 50,000 lbs. of bread, 18,000 to 20,000 lbs. of 
 fresh meat, 10 CM^t. of smoked meat. 12,000 lbs. of cheese, 10 to 15 cwt. of butter, 
 120 to 160 bushels of pulse, 500 or 600 ohms of beer, or 90,000 to 108,000 bottles, 
 and six to eight butts of wine, or 8100 to 10,800 bottles. Live cattle accompany 
 the raft, with butchers, &c. ; the houses erected on it are neat and convenient ; 
 and it is stated that these floats afford a favourable opportunity for a contraband 
 trade in Rhenish wines and mineral waters. The art of conducting a raft was 
 for nearly fifty years monoj)olised by a modern PnU/iirrus, an inhabitant of 
 Riidesheiin, and his sons, the various sinuosities and falls of the Rhine rendering 
 the navigation of so cumbrous a mass extremely dillicult. In latter years, how- 
 ever, experience has improved the nautical knowledge, ;iud convinced the Rhenish 
 
ANDERNACH. 143 
 
 boatmen, that, with due precaution, large rafts might be steered with safety from 
 phices higher up tlie river, and consequently this place of rendezvous has become 
 gradually less frequented." — {Toniblesoii's Rhine.) 
 
 At Andernach the basaltic mountains approach the water's edge, and the 
 town has a picturesque though time-worn appearance. The castle of Frederick- 
 stein next gains attention, with its sobriquet of DeviVs House, given because its 
 author raised it with the proceeds of an unjust and cruel tax upon his weaker 
 neighbours. With Andernach is identified the tradition of a Count Palatine, 
 who, returning from the Holy Wars, was persuaded by a false friend that his lady 
 had proved faithless ; and, without listening to excuse, drove her forth to the woods. 
 In the forest she found shelter with her youthful son, lodging in caves and living 
 on fruits and herbs for many years, when one day her husband, having lost his 
 companions in the chase, came by accident upon her place of concealment. The 
 wife of his bosom, carefully nurtured in her youth, now living untended in the 
 wilds, and his son now grown into a fine youth, excited his pity. Listening to 
 the truth he took home the innocent victims of perfidy, and retaliated u^ion the 
 traducer by hanging him from the highest tower of his castle. After her death 
 the countess became St. Genofeva. 
 
 Nearly opposite Nieuwied stands the tomb of General Hoche, near Wiessen- 
 thijrm, the White Tower, The inscription runs simply — " L'Armee de Sambre 
 et Meuse a son General Hoche." Speaking of this tomb and epitaph Byron 
 said — " This is all, and as it should be ; Hoche was esteemed amongst the fii'st 
 of France's earlier generals until Napoleon monopolised her triumphs. He was 
 the destined commander of the invading army of Ireland." The monument is 
 raised not over the body of the general, for he was buried at Coblentz, but at the 
 point where, in 1797, he carried the French army across the Ehine in spite of a 
 powerful Austrian force opposed to him. Ctesar passed the river at the same 
 spot. Hoche was one of the self-made heroes of the French revolutionary period. 
 The son of a keeper of the dog-kennels of Louis XV., he educated himself by 
 great perseverance and self-denial ; and, entering the ranks at the age of sixteen, 
 he died at thirty, the most celebrated commander of the armies of his country. 
 From this spot the banks have but little interest, until the Traveller comes in 
 sight of the junction of the Moselle with the Rhine, when Coblentz and Ehren- 
 breitstein are before him. 
 
 Coblentz is not a place to be passed by merely with a glance. It is quite 
 worthy of a day's attention from the hastiest tourist. The view of the city is 
 eminently picturesque ; its historical associations are many and interesting ; the 
 fortress of Ehrenbreitstein — the Broad Stone of Honour — should be seen both 
 as a fortress and for the views to be enjoyed from the summit ; whilst many 
 delightful Excursions may be enjoyed in this neighbourhood. 
 
144 
 
 THE lUIINE BOOK. 
 
 HHR5:>tB!lEIT8TKtN. 
 
 Here Elirenbreitstein, with her shatter'd wall 
 
 Black with the miner's blast upon her height, 
 Yet shows of what she was, when shell and ball 
 
 Rebounding idly on her strength did light, 
 A tower of victory ! from whence the flight 
 
 Of bafHed foes was watch'd along the plain ; 
 But Peace destroy'd what War could never bjiglit. 
 
 And laid those proud roofs bare to Summer's rain — 
 On which the iron shower for years liad pour'd in vain. — Byron. 
 
 At Coblentz the sons of Charlemagne met to divide their father's empii-e into 
 France, Germany, and Italy ; there also Edward III., in 1338, met the Emperor 
 Louis, and was by him appointed vicar of the empire ; and at Coblentz the French 
 raised a monument in 1814 to commemorate the subjugation of Russia, — as they 
 reared a column at Boulogne in honour of their invasion of England. Soon after 
 the inscription was finished the Russian commander entered Coblentz in pursuit 
 of Buonaparte. With memorable and caustic wit ho left the braggadocia as it 
 stood, just adding — " Vu et approuvc par nous, Commandant Ivusse de la A'illo 
 
STOLZENFELS. 
 
 145 
 
 cle Coblence, Janvier ler, 1814." Here also is the monument 
 to the young and gallant General Marceau, killed at the battle 
 of Altenkirchen, 1796. 
 
 By Coblentz, on a rise of gentle ground, 
 There is a small and simple pyramid, 
 
 Crowning the summit of the verdant mound : ,- 
 
 Beneath its base are heroes' ashes hid. 
 Our enemy's — but let not that forbid 
 Honour to Marceau ! o'er whose early tomb 
 Tears, big tears, gush'd from the rough soldier's lid, 
 Lamenting and yet envying such a doom. 
 Falling for France, whose rights he battled to resume. 
 
 Brief, brave, and glorious was his young career, — 
 His mourners were two hosts, his friends and foes ; 
 And fitly may the stranger lingering here 
 Pray for his gallant spirit's bright repose ; 
 For he was Freedom's champion, one of those, 
 The few in number, who had not o'erstept 
 The charter to chastise which she bestows 
 On such as wield her weapons ; he had kept 
 The whiteness of his soul, and thus men o'er him wept." 
 
 BVRON. 
 
 The excursions from Coblentz are numerous. 
 Lahnstein, Sayn, the Botanic Garden at Engers, 
 Laach, Marksburg, all offer their temptations. 
 The trip to Stolzenfels is 
 the most attractive for those ~j^ 
 who have but little time to "^"^ 
 spare, but, when leisure will -_j 
 
 allow, a trip should be made 
 up the Moselle to Treves. 
 
 Stolzenfels was long in 
 ruin, and was offered in vain 
 for sale. Not a purchaser 
 could be found, though it is 
 
 said that less than 20/. would have purchased it ! The people of Coblentz, to whom 
 it was worthless, gave it to the Crown Prince, now King, of Prussia, who has 
 restored it — unhappily not in the best or most substantial taste. But the fine 
 view it offers cannot be spoiled. The hills and the river are God's work ; noble 
 and beautiful as when they first came from his hand ; — whilst the height on which 
 the castle stands deserves its title, Stolzenfels — the Proud Rock. It was origin- 
 
 al olzenfei^s. 
 
146 
 
 THK nillXK noOK. 
 
 ally a stronghold of the Archbishops of Treves, and was in good condition until 
 
 destroyed by the French in 1688. 
 
 The Moselle is almost as charming a river 
 as the Rhine, and may be' folknved as fjir as 
 Treves, which stands 90 miles from Coblentz. 
 
 " The present year was made memorable in tlic annals of 
 that city by one of those spectacles more frequent in old 
 times than at the present day, — the exposition of that most sacred 
 relic, the Holy Robe of Jesus Chiist, said to be the veritable jiarment 
 worn at the time of his crucifixion — the seamless garment for which 
 the soldiers cast lots (John, xix. 23, 24.)- 
 
 " This exposition takes place every thirty years, and, as may 
 well be imagined, the circumstance creates the most lively 
 tercst, accompanied by an intense religious feelmg 
 tlie breasts of the numerous pilgrims who visit it. 
 s most holy relic is placed upon tlie liigh altar of 
 Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Helen, wliich is richly 
 dressed for the occasion. It is encased in a 
 frame covered with plate glass of its own form, 
 and is surrounded by innumerable candles of 
 various sizes. The altar is approached by inany 
 steps on each side, and the picturesque efllct of 
 _ __ this arrangement is further height- 
 
 ened by one or two stejis, at inter- 
 vals, in the floor, so that the long 
 line of pilgrims on their way down 
 the side aisle and up to the altar is 
 varied by these differences in height. 
 Twenty thousand pilgrims each day 
 are said to have paid their devo- 
 tions to this relic. They come in 
 processions of hundreds, and some- 
 times thousands ; are of various 
 grades, but mostly — indeed, almost 
 wholly — peasants. The lame, the 
 l)lind, and the sick are not few in 
 their ranks, and it is observable 
 that the majority are women. 
 They are constantly arriving, pour- 
 ing in at llie several gates of the city in an almost continual stream, accompanied by priests, 
 banners, and crosses, and alternately singing and jnaying. They are many of them heavily 
 laden, tiieir packs on tiieir backs, tiieir bright brass pans, pitchers, and tea-kettles of all shajies in 
 their hands, or slung on tiieir arms, wiiilo tluir lingers are busily employed with their beads. 
 Wayworn and footsore, fatigued and liungry, they yet pursue their toilsome march, intent iqxm 
 the attainiiKiit of tiie one object of tiieir jjiigriniage. It is curious and picturcsi|ue to see their 
 
 \ii:;W titOM BXOi-ZENtfiLb. 
 
CHDRCH OF THE HOLY ROBE. 
 
 147 
 
 long lines of processions in the open country, wending their slow way over the hills, and to hear 
 their hymns, mellowed by distance into a pleasant sound, across the broad Rhine. There was, 
 this year, processions from Germany, Belgium, Holland, France, Hungary and even Switzerland 
 
 and Italy, and during the whole of their jour- 
 
 
 neys the pilgrims sing and pray almost con- 
 tinually. The accomplishment of their pil- 
 grimages entitles them, by payment of a small 
 offering, to certain absolutions and Indulgences. 
 The pure-minded peasant girl seeks remission 
 of sins, the foodless peasant a liberty to eat 
 what the expenses of this pilgrimage will per- 
 haps deprive 
 him of the 
 means of ob- 
 taining. The 
 city was lite- 
 rally thronged 
 with them, and 
 the scene in 
 I he market- 
 place at night- 
 fall was in the 
 highest degree 
 interesting and 
 picturesque. 
 They stood in 
 the'midst, sur- 
 rounded by 
 buildings of 
 all ages and 
 
 forms, ornamented with figures of saints and warriors in stone, bronze, stucco, and wood carved and 
 painted. Down every alley and archway is to be seen some venerable morsel of antiquity. Near 
 the centre is the market fountain, and close by it a curious Saxon cross or pillar of granite, set up 
 in commemoration of the appearance of a fiery cross, said by tradition to have been seen in the 
 sky about the year 958. Down the streets before you rises the venerable cathedral, once the 
 palace of the Empress Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great, and given up by her to 
 be converted into a house of God, its Byzantine arches of coloured stone giving it the appearance 
 of an eastern building. Adjoining it is the beautiful early-pointed Gothic church of our Lady. 
 To the left the more ancient Roman gateway called the Porta Nigra. On all sides, mixed up with 
 marketable commodities of all colours, booths, and benches, and tables for the sale of rosaries, trinkets, 
 and pictures of the holy robe, lie on straw, which is strewn for the purpose, the various groups of 
 pilgrims in all the different costumes of their several countries. Some are still praying, always 
 aloud; some spreading the frugal meal, or boiling their kettles of brass, or quietly sleeping away 
 the fatigues of many a mile. On one hand you still hear the sacred chant or the simple hymn, 
 on the other the more boisterous song of mirth, for the beer-glass and the flask are not wanting 
 to fill up the measure of variety. 
 
 " Six weeks were appointed for the duration of the exposition of the holy robe, but in consequence 
 
 OaORCH OF THE HOI.V ROBE, AT IREVES. 
 
148 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 of the continued and increasing numbers of devotees towards the close of the term, an 
 week was this year granted. 
 
 " The object of all this interest and devotion, the coat without seam of our Saviour, so 
 is a simple tunic, apparently of linen or 
 cotton, of a fabric similar to the closely- 
 woven mummy-cloth of the Egyptians. It 
 is undoubtedly of very high antiquity. Its 
 form is precisely that of the modern Arab 
 frock or tunic, said by the present natives 
 of Syria to be of the same shape as that 
 generally worn by all classes from time im- 
 memorial. Like the modern dress of the 
 Arabs, its colour appears to have been ori- 
 ginally blue, though now discoloured by 
 time to a rust-coloured brown. When not 
 girded up at the waist, it would reach to 
 the ancles, the sleeve reaching to the wrist. 
 Its history, according to Professor Marx, 
 who has written an elaborate account of it, 
 a work having the approval of the bishop, 
 is authenticated as far back as 1157 by 
 written testimony, it having been mentioned 
 
 additional 
 said to be, 
 
 >N OF illK UiH.Y aUlKT AT lUKVhH. 
 
 as then existing in the cathedral of Treves, by Frederick I. in a letter addressed to llillcn, 
 Archbishop of Treves in that year. Its earliest history depends wholly on tradition, which says, 
 that it was obtained by the Empress Helena in the ycnr 326, while in the Holy Land, whitlier 
 she went for the cxjjrcss purpose of obtaining relics of our Saviour and his followers; that she 
 
GEOLOGY OF THE RHINE. 149 
 
 gave it to the see of Treves, and that it was deposited in the cathedral of that city ; that it was 
 afterwards lost, having been hidden in disturbed times within the walls of the cathedral, and 
 rediscovered under the Archbishop John I., in 1196; that it was again hidden for the same 
 reason, and brought to light, and exposed to the wondering multitude in 1512, on the occasion 
 of the famous diet of Treves, under the Emperor Maximilian. ' Since this last epoch, says the 
 author of the work already quoted, ' the history of the Holy Robe has been often discussed, written, 
 and sung, because it has been often publicly exposed, and at short intervals, whenever political 
 troubles have not prevented.'" 
 
 The Geological Character of this district has recently engaged the atten- 
 tion of the savans, not only of Germany, but of England. At the British Asso- 
 ciation a paper on the important additions recently made to the fossil contents of 
 the Tertiary Basin of the Middle Rhine, was presented by Mr. R. I. Murchison, the 
 geologist, whose researches in Russia have made him celebrated. After a sketch 
 of the geographical limits and geological relations of the tertiary deposits which 
 occupy the valley of the Rhine and Maine, around the towns of Mayence, Frank- 
 furt, and Darmstadt, Mr. Murchison gave an account of the recent discoveries 
 made by M. H. von Meyer, M. Kaup of Darmstadt, and M. Braun, of Heidelburg. 
 Of the animals of this tertiary basin, M. Von Meyer had catalogued, and was pre- 
 paring for publication, 68 mammifers, 30 reptiles, 13 birds, and 8 batrachians — 
 nearly all being undescribed species, and most of them of small dimensions. 
 Amongst the new animals discovered by Mr. Kaup were mentioned the Chalico- 
 therium, a genus allied to Anoplotherium and Lophiodon ; the Hippotherium 
 diffeinng from the recent Equus in the possession of an additional metacarpal 
 bone, and a minute Saurian, named Pisodon Colei. M. Kaup had determined from 
 an examination of the remains of various species of rhinoceros, tapir, &c., occurring 
 in this deposit, that the Fauna of the period presented a close affinity to the types 
 of the Indian and Sumatran archipelago, and were entirely distinct from all known 
 European mammalia. He had also collected a large series of mastodontoid 
 remains, which completely proved the vicAvs of Professor Owen, respecting the 
 identity of the American Tetracavilodon with the true Mastodon. The inver- 
 tebrata of the deposit have been examined by M. Alexander Braun, and have been 
 found to comprise 450 species, 303 of which are mollusca, and 103 shells, — of 
 which ten species only were identical with living forms. Many of the shells 
 approach closely in form to those in the Calcaire Grossier of Paris, and this cir- 
 cumstance, together with the occurrence of the Anthracotherium, and of an animal 
 intermediate between the Anoplotherium and Palasotherium, makes it probable that 
 the deposit belongs to the same age as the gypsum beds of Montmartre, and the 
 Ryde and Binsted strata of the Isle of Wight. These tertiary beds are covered 
 with gravel, sand, and loss, containing ninety-six species of shells, fifty-six of 
 
loO THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 which are terrestrial, and forty fluviatile. Of these, seven belong to species now 
 living, and nine others are probably varieties of existing species — the most 
 abundant species are very rare in a living state, whilst those now common are of 
 unfrequent occurrence in the loss. With the shells are associated the remains of 
 mammoth, rhinocei'os, tichorinus, &c., the bones of which have evidently received 
 very little injury from diluvial action ; and from the frequent occurrence of entire 
 skeletons, Mr. Murchison infers that these superficial deposits were formed by 
 very tranquil operations, and that the great mammalia inhabited tracts innnedi- 
 ately adjacent to the spots where they are now entombed. Mr. Owen at the same 
 meeting stated, that the Mastodon of the Mayence basin was identical with the 
 species found in the Norwich Crag, which was likewise a fluvio-marine deposit. 
 He had not seen any bones in the English tertiary or drift which could be distin- 
 guished from the ordinary horse or zebra, excepting a few teeth, which were more 
 curved than usual, and might jjossibly have belonged to the Hippotherium. 
 
 There has just died at Coblentz, in the prison, called tlie Convent of the Carmelites, a man 
 known by the name o( the old Frenchman icith the ivhite heard, confined there 32 years, of which 28 
 were voluntary. In 1811, a soldier of the 20th regiment of French dragoons was discovered 
 asleep, with his head on his knapsack, in the forest of Coblentz, and taken up as a deserter. He 
 declared his name to be Antonio Alivera, a native of Aosta, in Piedmont, and that he had received 
 his discharge, with a jjension of 200 fr. a year, from being subject to fits of mental alienation. Tlie 
 authorities left him tem))orarily in prison. There he remained until the allied troops entered 
 Coblentz, 1814, when an order was given to send him and others to a depot of French prisoners. 
 This he strongly protested against, declaring that he was not a F'rench prisoner, but an Italian 
 discliarged from the service. In the course of the next year his father and uncle arrived, and 
 obtained his liberation, and took him with them on their way home. At a little distance from 
 Coblentz, he suddenly quitted them and returned to the prison, requesting permission to be allowed 
 to resume his former quarters. This was allowed, with full lil)erty granted him to go out when lie 
 pleased. Notwithstanding this permission, he never left his cell for 28 years, and during that 
 period never asked for light or fire, no matter how severe might be the cold. He spent his time 
 in making hair rings, ivory thimbles, box paper-cutters, and other little objects, which he sold to 
 strangers who came to see him. He was 71 years old at his death; and having never cut his 
 beard, which was very long, and of exceeding whiteness, and being of lofty stature, he had a most 
 venerable appearance. He died worth 1 100 tlialers (about 4000 fr.) which he had saved during his 
 imprisonment. 
 
 ..-ri*--:-... 
 
COBLENTZ. 
 
 151 
 
 INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER. 
 
 1 <'hurch of St. Castor. 
 
 2 Kvangelical Chunh. 
 o (iovernioent Offices. 
 
 4 Timber jard of fortress. 
 
 5 Victualling Offices. 
 G Palace. 
 
 7 Post Office. 
 
 8 Theatre. 
 
 9 Commander's f Iffice. 
 10 General-in-Chief's Office. 
 H Ancient House of the Teutonic Order. 
 
 COBLENTZ, 
 
 HOTELS. 
 
 Belle Vue. 
 
 Gt'ant. 
 
 Trois Suisses. 
 
 Frierischer. 
 
 Kolnlsclier. 
 
 Pariser. 
 
 Cheval Blanc (at Ehrenbreitstein). 
 
 CHIEF THINGS TO BE SEEN AT COBLENTZ, 
 
 Ehrenbreitstein. 
 
 Monument to General Hoche. 
 
 Monument erected by the French in 1812. 
 
 The street facing the Moselle is very pic- 
 turesque, and contains the Town Hall and 
 ancient castle of the Electors of Treves. 
 
 The Church of St. Castor, (a. d. 836.); on 
 this spot the sons of Charlemagne met to divide 
 his empire into Italy, France, and Germany ; 
 and here also, in 1338, Edward III. of England 
 was installed vicar of the empire. 
 
 New palace of the Electors, now used as the 
 Palace of Justice. 
 
 Large cellars under the Convent of the 
 Jesuits. 
 
152 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK 
 
 CoBLENTZ is a strongly fortified town on the 
 right bank of the Rhine ; it is built on a triangle 
 formed by the confluence of the Rhine and 
 Moselle ; its population, including that of 
 Ehrenbreitstein, together with the garrison, is 
 about 21,500. A bridge of boats connects 
 Coblentz with Thai Ehrenbreitstein ; the Thai, 
 or valley, joins the mountain, on which stands 
 the magnificent fortress of the same name. 
 
 The city of Coblentz was much enlarged 
 between the years 1 779 and 1 787 ; the more 
 ancient part received the name of the " old 
 town," and the modern that of the " new town ; " 
 there are some good streets in the old town, but 
 the houses generally are ill-built ; it, however, 
 contains many fine antique edifices. The house 
 now occupied by government was formerly the 
 palace of Treves. 
 
 An old Dominican convent now converted 
 into barracks; the Hotel Von der Leyden, the 
 Sub Governor's residence ; the palace Boos 
 Waldeck, occupied by the Chief President ; (a 
 curious antique head is to be seen under the 
 clock in the old market of St. Florian) — and the 
 Church of St. Castor, in the new town ; the 
 modern palace of the Electors, converted by 
 the French into barracks, but now used as a 
 Palace of Justice and Court of Assizes, are the 
 principal buildings. The new town faces the 
 Rhine on one side above the bridge of boats ; 
 the other side is towards the Great Square, 
 where parade is held with a military band, 
 between twelve and one o'clock daily. 
 
 The Casino is a fine place of architecture; 
 it contains a ball-room and reading-rooms with 
 prettily laid- out gardens. 
 
 The vaults or cellars under the old Convent 
 of Jesuits are often visited ; tlicy are of vast 
 extent. 
 
 The beautiful situation of Coblentz annually 
 attracts thousands of visitors ; many families, 
 particularly English, have lately made it a 
 winter's residence ; provisions of every descrip- 
 
 tion are abundant, very good and reasonable. 
 Very recently (1840), the Prussian Government 
 have liberally appropriated a building for tlie 
 solemnisation of divine service according to the 
 rites of the Churcli of England. The Prussian 
 Government are in all respects very liberal to 
 strangers. 
 
 Coblentz is beautifully situated ; either ap- 
 proached by land or water, it presents a lovely 
 picture ; there are also many interesting spots in 
 the environs which afford pleasing excursions; 
 the following are amongst the most agreeable : — 
 the castle Stolzenfels, on the road to Maycnce, is 
 one of the most picturesque and imposing feudal 
 ruins on the Rhine, placed on the rock called 
 the Proud Rock; it was presented to the Crown 
 Prince of Prussia by the people of Coblentz, 
 who devotes a certain sum annually to its 
 repairs, and it is now almost restored to all its 
 former magnificence. 
 
 The village and chateau of Sayn. 
 
 The botanic garden at Engers. 
 
 The Lake of Laach, beautifully situated. At 
 the opposite extremity of the lake is the ])ic- 
 turesque, but deserted Abbey of Laach, origi- 
 nally a Benedictine convent, but during the 
 French revolution suppressed, and now converted 
 into a farm. 
 
 The castle of Elz. 
 
 Neuwied, and the castle of INIarksburg. .Ml 
 of these are pleasant excursions from Coblentz. 
 
 From the hill of the Chartreuse most exten- 
 sive views are obtained ; it derives its name 
 from an old convent tiiat formerly stood there, 
 in the place of which now stand the fine Forts 
 of Constantine and Alexander. 
 
 It is almost as high as Ehrenbreitstein, which 
 citadel is seen to great advantage from this 
 point ; on the verge of the hill, on one side, is 
 seen the Rhine with the fortified heights of 
 Pfaffendorf ; on the other, at the foot of the 
 heights, is the river Moselle. 
 
TlHi RHINE ABOVK COBLENTZ. 
 
 153 
 
 COBLENTZ TO MAYBNCE. 
 
 BOPPART 
 
 Above Coblentz the 
 Rhine contracts in width, 
 the mountains rise more 
 precipitously from its banks, 
 the ruined castles are 
 more frequent, and the 
 whole aspect of the river 
 calls forcibly to mind the 
 feudal ages. Niederlahn- 
 stein presents the ruins of 
 the ancient Church of St. 
 John, and above it the 
 Castle of Lahneck; Ober- 
 lahn stein may be recog- 
 nised by the red castle of 
 the Electors of Mayence. 
 
 Above the small village of Rhense was the Konigstuhl ; 
 a spot equally near to the dominions of all the Electors, and :;^^ 
 
 selected by them as their place of rendezvous for the settle- 
 
 ment of the affairs of the empire. Many laws have ema- ^=^ -^—SJ^oi 
 nated thence, many treaties have there been signed, and many 
 emperors been elected and dethroned. — The small town of Brau- 
 bach is indicated by a tall pointed rock, on which is perched the i 
 castle of INIarksburg, a stronghold still in an admirable state of 
 preservation, and affording a very perfect specimen of the feudal 
 castle of the middle ages with its towers, passages, winding stairs, 
 and dungeons. — The villages of Niedex'spey and Oberspey, and the 
 castle and village of Osterspey, are passed, and then Boppart is 
 approached, with its convent of Marienburg, its Roman remains, 
 its Church with twin spires, and its highly picturesque streets, full of " bits " for 
 the study of the antiquary, the artist, and the man of taste. Sulzig, the next 
 village, is noted for its orchards ; and nearly opposite to it are the ruins 
 of the castles of Sternberg and Liebenstein, more often called the Brothers, 
 from the legend connected with them. This tale is always told to the stranger as 
 he passes the spot, and he is ever expected to admire the stern virtue of the one 
 knight, and to lament the weakness of the other. 
 
1.)- 
 
 TIIK RIIlXi: nooK. 
 
 THE BROTHFP.S^ 
 
 Bif 33ruticr. 
 
 lEBENSTEiN, when in its glory, was the abode of a happy 
 family — a father, two sons, and a young female ward. 
 The father was a venerable knight, who in his youth had 
 done good service in the cause of chivalry, and on the field 
 of battle had taken charge of the only daughter of a dying 
 comrade. As years flew on the old man regarded the child 
 thus bequeathed to him with feelings of increased aftection, 
 whilst she — young, rich, and beautiful — was an object of 
 general admiration. AVhat wonder, then, that almost un- 
 known to themselves, both her foster-brothers should love her, and that this 
 love should grow up with their growth, and strengthen with their strength, until 
 it became a i)assion absorbing both their souls. The experienced eye of the 
 father was the first to discover the fatal secret, and when he contemplated the 
 opposite characters of his children, he felt ill at ease. The eldest was thoughtful, 
 cautious, firm in his resolves, and bitter in his resentment ; the youngest was rash, 
 impetuous, and changeable ; but both were brave, and fond of resolving ail 
 
LEGEND OF " THK BUOTHERS." 155 
 
 differences by the general umpire of the times they lived in — the sword. After 
 much consideration he called his sons before him, and reminding them that they 
 were brothers, told them what he knew of their feelings, and asked for their 
 resolve. The young Edith he said loved both as a sister, but would love one to 
 wedlock if the other was away, — they could not both win her, and one must 
 sacrifice his feelings to the happiness of his mistress, and his brother. 
 
 The scene that followed his words was touching, but short. The youngest son 
 displayed an agony of grief, and tore his hair, and called in tones of supplication 
 to his elder brother to think of his sufferings if driven from the sight of her who 
 was his heart's only happiness. With a noble self-denial this passionate appeal 
 was answered by three words, " Brother, I go," and next morning saw the young 
 Henry von Beyen on his way to the Holy Wars. 
 
 Time flew on, and the nuptials of Edith with Conrad were approaching when news 
 arrived from Palestine of wonders of bravery achieved by the youthful Crusader. 
 The father's heart beat high when listening to the tale of the prowess of his noble 
 son ; but the brow of Conrad became gloomy as the praises were repeated, and, 
 unwilling that his brother, who had been conquered in love, should be most glorious 
 in war, the bridegroom forsook the side of his affianced to join the Crusaders. Thus 
 left alone the young Edith languished, and her foster-f\itlier, after long waiting for 
 the return of his sons, pined and died, leaving unfinished the towers of Sternberg, 
 which he had raised as a home for his young ward and her husband. 
 
 Meantime rumours reached the castle of Liebenstein of Conrad's boistex'ous 
 gaieties and carelessness to return, and these flying stories were strengthened by 
 the return of Henry at the conclusion of the war without his brother. When 
 asked by Edith particulars of their career, he ever extolled the bravery of the 
 absentee, and held silence of all else; whilst his conduct towards her was ever that 
 which a sister should receive. 
 
 Still they waited Henry's return, when on a summer evening there was a sound 
 of music approaching Sternberg, and it was soon discovered to be the long-absent 
 Crusader approaching his home. Joyfully the vassals went forth to meet him, 
 and Edith was already standing on the di'awbridge anxious to receive her lover, 
 when the news came tliat Conrad ivas not alone; — he had brought with him a 
 young and beautiful Greek wife! 
 
 Edith was stricken dumb by the perfidy; Henry was at first astonished, and then 
 enraged. That night he sent a challenge to the new comer to answer with his sword 
 the injustice and insult to his love. At midnight they met, but had no time even to 
 speak of the cause of quarrel when the forsaken Edith, who had gained intelligence 
 of the intended meeting, threw herself between them. " As you once loved me, 
 Conrad; as you ever nobly loved me, Henry, I forbid this. Let no blood be 
 spilled for me. To-morrow I enter a convent, and devote myself to God. Nay ! 
 
156 
 
 TUE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 no words, I have a vow : and my prayers shall be given for yonr happiness, 
 and that you may both live in brotherhood and peace together." 
 
 Three years more worked out the tragedy. P>dith died in a neiglibouring 
 nunnery — but not before the gay young Greek wife had brought dishonour on the 
 head of Conrad, and to avoid his anger had forsaken him for a new lover. Tke 
 Brothers obeyed the injunction of the dead nun, and dwelt in peace ; but it was 
 scarcely three years before the half-finished towers of Sternberg were left to ruin 
 by the death of their owner, Conrad, and soon afterwards the closed gates of 
 Liebenstein told that the vital spirit of their lord — the last of his race — had 
 departed. Fi-om that day to this the ruins of Die Briider tell to all who journey 
 by the Rhine the sad story of misery and death which there became the penalty 
 of False Love. 
 
 'he village of Kes- 
 tert is known by 
 the ruins of an 
 old church with 
 a huge rock op- 
 posite, the base of which 
 is clothed with vines and 
 the summit with trees. 
 Facing an island passed 
 l)y the steamer stands 
 llirzenach with its ancient 
 priory, formerly owned by 
 the abbey of Sieburg, now 
 surrounded by the huts 
 of vine dressers. Ehreii- 
 thul is noted for its mines, 
 some of which yield silver: Welmich is distinguished by a gothic tower, and has 
 picturesque envii-ons, with the ruins of the fortress uf Thurmbcrg bcliind tiie village. 
 The castle of Kheinlels, though now in ruins, is, after P^hrenbreitstein, the most 
 imposing structui-e on the Rliine. In the old days, Count Katzenellenbogen, (a 
 capital name for a German robber,) posted himself in this strongliold, and levied 
 toll so cruelly ui)on all j)assers-by, both on land and water, that the towns on the 
 Rliine joined their strength together to abate the tyranny and injustice. Under 
 the name of the Confederation of the Ixhine they besieged, eonipiered, and dis- 
 mantled Rheinfels ; and then, elated l)y their victory, marched down upon, and 
 destroyed, the fortresses of many baronial freebooters, whose exactions had long 
 tormented the country. 
 
 BIHZKN AOU. 
 
EXCURSIONS ROUND ST. GOARHAUSEN. 
 
 157 
 
 St. Goar, Rheinfels, the 
 Castle of the Cat, and St. 
 : J Goarhausen, lyiug near to- 
 gether, should induce the 
 Traveller to tarry awhile at 
 this point. Should he do so, 
 he will find himself amidst 
 the most glorious scenery, 
 with scope for charming 
 excursions on all sides. 
 He may visit the ruins of 
 Rheinfels ; may attend the 
 church founded by St. Goar, 
 who first preached Chris- 
 tianity to the inhabitants of 
 this spot ; may call up the 
 echoes of the Lurleyburg, 
 which slumber near, or, wandering along the banks of the stream by moonlight, 
 may listen for the song of Undine — the nymph who dwells in the whirlpool, and 
 
 THE RHi;; 
 
 t HIRZENACH. 
 
 -■".Oi.lIiADSEN, AND THF CAT'S CASTLE. 
 
 whose ver}' name scares the boatman as he passes the dangerous rapids in this 
 
158 
 
 THE RHINK BOOK. 
 
 Stretch of the Ehine. Crossing the 
 
 stream to St. Goarhausen he may traverse 
 
 the Swiss Valley ; may climb to the very 
 
 brow of the Lurleyburg ; may examine 
 
 the traces of Moorish ar- 
 
 cliitecture amidst the ruins 
 
 of the castle of Reichen- 
 
 berg ; and enjoy at every 
 
 turn of his way the most 
 
 varied and striking stretches 
 
 of scenery. If his rambles 
 
 are in vacation time, he 
 
 will doubtless meet some of 
 
 the German students who 
 
 with pack on back and 
 
 book in hand pass their 
 
 holiday from the classes in 
 
 studying the nat ural features 
 
 of "the Fatherland." He 
 
 will do well to note the love 
 
 of country which marks the 
 
 character of the Burschen, 
 
 and if he be of jovial habits, 
 
 and can enjoy the language, 
 
 ^°'"'''^- he may break a bottle ol' 
 
 the Rhine wine with the first student party he meets ; may learn how they can 
 
 drink and smoke ; and may perchance be favoured with a few specimens of the 
 
 33urscf)£n ^ongs. 
 
 A student free I wander here 
 
 Along the banks of classic Rhine, 
 And legends old — now gay, now drear. 
 Companions are of mine. 
 A Burschen bold — I tread the strand, 
 The river of my Fatherland. 
 
 I pass'd beneath the Drachenfels, 
 
 And Ehrenl)reitstein met my sight ; 
 A gush of pride my bosom swells 
 When dreaming of its might. 
 A Burschen true — I i)roudly stand 
 'Mid bulwarks of my FatherlancL 
 
OBERWESEL, 
 
 159 
 
 Still as I go, the waters bright 
 
 Reflect the ruins hoar 
 Where Marxburgh and where Bacharack 
 Call back the days of yore. 
 When chieftain bold and trusty band 
 Sway'd the fate of the Fatherland. 
 
 The love of the Germans for the Rhine is proverbial over P^urope, and this 
 feeling appears to have been felt for ages past as strongly as it Avas on the 
 memorable New Year's Night when Blucher passed the river in 1814. 
 
 The Warrior Knight from Holy Land with fame and spoil has come. 
 And he bares his brow, and he bends his knee, as he nears his river home ; 
 He thinks no more of the Siroc's heat, or the dangers of Palestine, 
 But is fiU'd with fullest joy again, as he once more sees the Rhine. 
 
 " The Rhine ! the Rhine ! the beautiful ! once more I tread thy strand, 
 
 The stream of streams, the only lov'd, stream of my Fatherland. 
 
 " The Nile breathes of its Pyramids — of glories sad, but vast; 
 
 And the Ganges through a thousand spots of beauty bright has pass'd ; 
 
 The Tiber in its turbid flood still tells of olden Rome, 
 
 And Danube rolls its hasty stream by many a happy home : 
 
 But the Rhine is the most beautiful — more dear to me the strand 
 
 Of the stream of streams, the only lov'd, stream of the F"atherland." 
 
 BERWESEL with itS 
 
 picturesqne round 
 tower is seen on 
 the left bank (on 
 the right as the river is 
 ascended), with its large 
 church, built by Archbishop 
 Baldwin of IVeves, which 
 has a richly decorated Gothic 
 interior and many curious 
 carvings and monuments. 
 The chapel seen near the 
 wall of the town, and not far 
 from the river, is named after 
 Werner, a youth, who is 
 said by tradition to have 
 been kidnapped by the Jews 
 and crucified, — a tale told in 
 many countries as an excuse 
 for cruel persecutions and shameless spoliation of the scattered tribes of Israel. 
 
 OBERWESEL 
 
IGO 
 
 Till-; raiiNE 1!Ook. 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 lo SCHONBERG, DOW SCCIl ill 
 
 ruins, there came, in its days 
 of pi'ide, many cavaliers to 
 seek the love of seven beau- 
 tiful maiden sisters who 
 dwelt there ; but tlie ladies' hearts w^ere 
 full of scorn in place of love, and suitor 
 after suitor retired in despair. At 
 length, however, many knights happened 
 to be together at the castle ; and, gather- 
 ing courage from good company, they had the hardihood to reproach the damsels 
 for their cruelty, and urge them to give no further pain to knightly breasts, by 
 choosing from the noble company then present those whom they thought most 
 worthy to be their husbands. With a loud laugh at the temerity of their guests, 
 they promised to do so, on condition that all the counts, barons, and noble cava- 
 liers would assemble in their gayest attire in the great hall of the castle next 
 day at sunrise. At that hour they agreed that all should know their fate. 
 
 Never before liad tlie dawn glanced through the painted windows of the hall to 
 throw a rich light upon a more glittering company than met together next morning. 
 Casques, and plumes, and golden-hilted swords were there in plenty ; and patiently 
 did their owners rest, hour after hour, thinking the maidens late, but still hoping 
 eacli to be able, when one of them was his own, to teach her more care for his 
 wishes. Suddenly the loud laugh of over-night was heard outside the window ; 
 and, looking forth, behold the seven sisters seated in a boat, leaving the castle, 
 and, as they sailed down the stream, waving their hands in mockery of the jilted 
 company. Loud was the wrath, and louder the oaths (for knights' oaths were often 
 as heavy as their swords), when — in a moment — their anger was stayed. The boat 
 staggered in her course. Intent upon their cruel jest, the helm was unheeded ; and 
 the frail vessel trembled a moment in its struggle with the waters, as thougli some 
 demon had hold upon its keel, and then sunk. For a moment their white dresses 
 were seen upon the surface, and for a moment their loud screams for lulp were 
 heard upon the shore, — then all was hushed. From that hour seven rot-ks mark 
 the spot which the boatmen name The Seven Sistehs ; and he is a bold man, 
 and need be a sound Ciiiistian and good helmsman, who would dare pass tliem 
 after sunset ; for the stony points are cunningly hidden beneath the surlace, and 
 woe to the bark that nears them ! It is said, too, that a delicious voice is some- 
 times heard, like that of the Lurley, luring the ear and chaining the spirit, till 
 the hapless listener is within reach of the fatal power which seeks liis destruc- 
 tion. 
 
BACHARACII. 
 
 161 
 
 FALZ, Caub, and Gutenfels, are all points of interest, and come quickly- 
 one after another upon the eye. It was in the curious castle of the 
 Pfalz, in the centre of the stream, says tradition, that the wives of the 
 Counts Palatine came for safety when about to bless their lords with 
 an heir: it was at Caub that Blucher crossed the Rhine: and Guten- 
 fels, whose ruins stand above the town, received its name from the beautiful 
 Guda, whose love was sought by Richard of Cornwall, Emperor of Germany, 
 and brother to Henry III. of England. Here, also, toll is still paid to the Duke of 
 Nassau for free passage up or down the stream, he being the only potentate who 
 is now allowed to levy such a tax. Time was when upwards of thirty such 
 charges were enforced, each owner of a stronghold asserting a right to pillage the 
 voyager so soon as he came within reach. 
 
 Sli^Ki^i i:i BA^UARACH. 
 
 ACHARACH is full of antique buildings, and is surrounded by ancient 
 
 walls and watch-towers. It is said to gain its name from Bacchus — a 
 
 tale which deserves to be true on account of the excellence of its wines. 
 
 These were so good in times gone by, that it is said Pope Pius the 
 
 Second (and Popes are all known to be excellent judges) annually sent for a tun of 
 
 it for his own drinking ; and that the Emperor Wenzel Avas bribed into granting 
 
162 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 l^OKCH&USEK. 
 
 their freedom to the citizens 
 of Nuremburg in return for 
 four casks of the delicious 
 liquor. At this day it is the 
 greatest wine mart on the 
 Rhine, with the single ex- 
 ception of Cologne. The 
 high ground above Bacharach 
 is crowned by the ruins of 
 Stahleck, passing which the 
 Traveller is greeted by the 
 towers of Nollingen and by 
 the village of Lorchausen, 
 and soon afterwards by the 
 round tower and crumbling 
 This stronghold was dis- 
 
 walls of Furstenburg, which rise above Rheindiebach. 
 
 mantled by the French in 1689. 
 
 LoRCH is an antique and quiet town, comfortably ensconced in the opening of 
 
 the valley of the Wisperthal. 
 It is near here that the i^re- 
 cipitous mountain of Ke- 
 drich raises its head aloft, 
 but whose steepness was no 
 proof against the steps of the 
 Evil One, who rode up its 
 side on horseback one night, 
 and left behind him some 
 marks still pointed out as 
 The Devil's Ladder. The 
 same feat was afterwards 
 performed by a young knight. 
 Sir Hilchen von Lorch, who, 
 with the help of a few kind 
 fairy friends, scaled the 
 height to rescue his ladye- 
 love, held in duresse upon 
 the summit by some spiteful 
 gnomes. The Rheingau 
 commences at Lorch ; and, 
 as we pass it, the castles be- 
 
 ilUKlNUlKUACU. 
 
LEGEND OF BISHOP HATTO. 
 
 163 
 
 come more and more nume- 
 rous. Fursteneck is rapidly 
 succeeded by Heimburg, Son- 
 neck, Reichenstein or Fal- 
 kenburg, and Rheinstein. The 
 last has been restored, and 
 is filled with antique furni- 
 ture, made after the fashion 
 of "the days of chivalry," 
 which the passing Traveller 
 may see by asking admission 
 at its gates — a favour rea- 
 dily granted by the schloss- 
 voght. The village of Ass- 
 manshausen, which stands on 
 the left (as the stream is 
 ascended), is another birth- 
 place of the Rhine wine ; and 
 a little higher up the stream 
 stands Ehrenfels, an old castle 
 of the Archbishops of May- 
 ence ; and the Mouse Tower, 
 with its Legend of Bishop 
 Hatto, versified by Southey : 
 
 Ct)c Hcflnttf of W^ta. 
 
 The summer and autumn had been so wet, 
 That in winter the corn was growing yet ; 
 'Twas a piteous sight to see all around. 
 The grain lie rotting on the ground. 
 
 Every day the starving poor 
 Crowded around Bishop Hatto's door. 
 For he had a plentiful last year's store ; 
 And all the neighbourhood could tell 
 His granaries were furnish'd well. 
 
 At last Bishop Hatto appointed a day 
 To quiet the poor without delay : 
 He bade thera to his great barn repair, 
 And they should have food for the winter 
 there. 
 
 Rejoic'd at such tidings good to hear, 
 The poor folk flock'd from far and near ; 
 The great barn was full as it could hold 
 Of women and children, and young and old. 
 
 Then when he saw it could hold no more. 
 Bishop Hatto he made fast the door ; 
 And while for mercy on Christ they call. 
 He set fire to the barn, and burnt them all. 
 
 RBEINSreiN 
 
 " r faith 'tis an excellent bonfire ! " quoth he, 
 " And the country is greatly oblig'd to me, 
 For ridding it, in these times forlorn, 
 or rats that only consume the corn." 
 
 So then to his palace returned he. 
 
 And he sat down to supper merrily. 
 
 And he slept that night like an innocent man ; 
 
 But Bishop Hatto never slept again. 
 
164 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 ASSMASSHAUSEN. 
 
 Ill the morning as he enter'd the li.ill 
 Where his picture hung against the wall, 
 A sweat lil4e death all o'er him came, 
 For the rats had eaten it out of the frame. 
 
 As he look'd there came a man from his 
 
 farm. 
 He had a countenance white with alarm. 
 " My Lord, I open'd your granaries this 
 
 morn. 
 And the rats had eaten all your corn." 
 
 Another came running presently. 
 
 And he was pale as jiale could lie : 
 
 " Fly ! my lord liisliop, fly," quoth he. 
 
 " Ten thousand rats are coming this way. 
 
 The Lord forgive you for yesterday ! " 
 
 '■ I'll go to my tower on the Rhine," re- 
 plied he, 
 
 " 'Tis tlie safest place in Germany ; ^ig 
 
 The walls are high, and the shores are 
 
 steep, — 
 
 .\nd the stream is strong, and the water 
 del p." 
 
 Bishop Hatto fearfully hasten'd away. 
 And he cross'd the Uhine witlioiit dflay. 
 And reach'd his tower, and hirr'il witli care 
 All the windows, doors, and loop-holes 
 there. 
 
 Me laid him down, and clos'd his eyes ; 
 But soon a scream made him arise ; 
 He started, and saw two eyes of Hame 
 On his pillow, from whence the screaming 
 came. 
 
 
BINGEN. 
 
 165 
 
 He listen'd and look'd : it was only the 
 
 cat ; 
 But the bishop he grew more fearlul lor 
 
 that. 
 For she sat screaming, mad with fear 
 At the army of rats that were drawing near. 
 
 For they have swam over the river so deep. 
 And they have climb'd the shores so steep, 
 And now by thousands up they crawl 
 To the holes and windows in the wall. 
 
 Down on his knees the bishop fell. 
 And faster and faster his beads did he tell. 
 As louder and louder drawing near. 
 The saw of their teeth without he could 
 hear. 
 
 And in at the windows, and in at the door, 
 And through the walls by thousands they 
 
 pour. 
 And down through the ceiling, and up 
 
 through the floor. 
 
 From the right and the left, from behind 
 
 and before, 
 From within and without, from above and 
 
 below ; 
 And all at once to the bishop they go. 
 
 They have whetted their teeth against thfi 
 
 stones. 
 And now, they pick the bishop's bones ; 
 They gnaw'd the flesh from every limb, 
 For they were sent to do judgment on 
 
 him. SoUTHEY. 
 
 BRIDGE OVER THE NAHE. KEAR BtMGEiJ. 
 
 Near the Mouse Tower, the river Nahe falls into the Rhine ; near it also is the 
 
166 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 Bingenloch, where the stream has been deepened, — a fact recorded on a small 
 obelisk seen upon the shore. 
 
 Bingen is a place to stop at for a day or more. Its environs are full of beauty, 
 and the town itself has many points worthy of attention. On the summit of a 
 hill stands the chapel of St. Rock, a spot visited on the 1 6th of August, the day 
 of that saint, by thousands of pilgrims. Goethe has described the scene presented 
 on that day, and in memory of his visit to the town presented to the chapel the 
 altar-piece that now adorns it. " It is very evident, " says Dr. Schreiber, " that 
 the ridge of mountains near Bingen was formerly obstructed by rocks, which 
 opposed a sort of dyke to the waters of the Rhine, and gave rise to the formation 
 of an extensive lake between Ladenburg, Spire, Mannheim, Mayence, Grossgerau, 
 and Pfungstadt. This mass of water having risen over the dyke fell with im- 
 petuosity to the bottom of the precipice, and it was not till after many ages that 
 the river effected a free passage, the rocks being then broken by the violence of 
 the current, or more probably, in consequence of one of those grand revolutions of 
 nature which sometimes take place." 
 
 nncESBBIM. 
 
RUDESHEIM. 
 
 167 
 
 RuDESHEiM is alike renowned for wines and ruins — for the comforts of the 
 present and the memories of the past. The town is the centre of a vineyard, the 
 grapes being grown in great profusion near it, owing to the favourable nature of 
 the locality — a secret discovered, it is said, by Charlemagne, who, remarking the 
 rapid disappearance of the snow in the slopes about Rudesheim, declared his belief 
 that fine wine might be grown there. Sending to France for some plants, they 
 were placed in the earth, and have ever since yielded a grape worthy of their 
 parentage — a grape still called Orleans. From this town the Tourist may make 
 a pleasant excursion to the Niederwald, having first given his attention to the 
 history of Rudesheim, once the seat of an Imperial Court held in the Nieder 
 Burg, and scanned its four ancient castles. Of these, one belonged for a time to 
 Prince Metternich, who, however, sold it to Count Ingelheim, its present pos- 
 sessor ; another is picturesquely posted at the upper part of the town, and still 
 retains some curious relics of the Bromser family, its old possessors. A tradition 
 still exists telling how Hans Bromser, being taken captive in Jerusalem, made a 
 vow to Heaven that if released he would dedicate his only daughter to the service 
 of the church. Gaining his liberty soon afterwards, he returned to the Rhine, to 
 find the child he had left when he started for the Crusades grown to womanhood ; 
 and he learned also that, secure of her father's sanction, she had betrothed herself 
 
 NEAR MAYENCE. 
 
168 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 to a youthful knight. Love and duty struggled in the maiden's heart when she 
 was told of the vow ; but in her young bosom love was strongest, and she begged 
 her parent to relent ; but in the hasty bitterness of his spirit he launched at her 
 young head a father's curse if she dared to mai-ry. Driven by despair she fled to 
 the highest rock on the bank, and plunged headlong into the Rhine, down which 
 her dead body floated as far as the Mouse Tower ; and the old gossips of the 
 neighbourhood, when tliey hear that the stream is troul)k'd thereabouts, shake 
 their heads, and sigh, " It is the uneasy spirit of Bromser's daughter wrestling 
 with the dreadful fate her father drove her to." 
 
 Passing Rudesheim a fine view of the Rhine presents itself. Nearly opposite 
 to that town is the village of Kempten, seated at the foot of the Rochersberg. 
 The steamer leaves the high banks behind, and in succession passes Geissenheim, — 
 Johannisberg, with its fine vines, the property of Prince Metternich, — the villages 
 of Winkel, Mittelheim, and Oestrich, — EUfekl, and its Gothic towers, — ^Valluff, 
 "the gate of the Rheingau," — Budenheim with its ferry, — Scheirstein, "the 
 orchard of the Rheingau," — and Bieberich. Here the Duke of Nassau has a palace 
 and a garden, which the visitor is allowed to enjoy. Mayence is now rapidly 
 approached, and the Traveller, as he nears that city of Gutemburg, has leisui-e to 
 reflect upon the character of the scenery of the Rhine he has now left behind him, 
 and to resolve what portions of it he will make further acquaintance with. 
 
HEIDELBURG. 
 
 169 
 
 The Trouba- 
 dours made May- 
 ence their head 
 quarters, and 
 irom its walls 
 they issued to 
 sing the deeds of 
 knighthood, and 
 to spread far and 
 wide the fame of 
 beauty ; and at 
 Mayence Gut- 
 temburg first 
 completed the 
 printing press. 
 Henry Frauen- 
 the most celebrated of the 
 Minnesingers, has a tomb in the 
 cathedral, to which his body was borne by 
 the women of Mayence. Guttemburg has 
 a statue in the market-place, raised to his 
 memory three centuries after his death 
 by the contributions of scholars in all 
 
 r-^-sTs 
 
 parts of Europe. 
 The Traveller must 
 visit these two me- 
 morials of poetry /,^,^j 
 and learning, and in W^^ 
 searching them out 
 will see both the inte- 
 rior and the exterior 
 of the ancient cathe- 
 dral of the city, and cannot fail to 
 be struck by the mingled styles of 
 architecture it displays. He may 
 also seek the stone of Drusus, and 
 
170 
 
 THE RHINE BOOK. 
 
 view the ramparts ; and afterwards see the Teutonic House, where Napoleon for 
 a short time resided. 
 
 At Mayence the Tourist has to decide (if he has not previously done so) whither 
 he wiU journey next. Frankfurt, vStrasbourg, Baden, and many other points offer 
 their attractions. Two places, however, he should visit ere he returns down the 
 stream — Heidelburg by way of Mannheim, and Wiesbaden. The former of 
 these towns has a sj^lendid ruin overhanging the Neckar, and a tun memorable 
 throughout the world for its capacity, being capable of containing two hundred and 
 eighty three thousand bottles ! it is thii-ty-three feet long, and 24 feet in diameter : 
 — the latter offers an excellent idea of the Spas of Germany. 
 
 Heidelburg (grand duchy of Baden) is delightfully situated at the entrance of the valley of the 
 Neckar, and the beginning of the Bergstrasse, so much and so deservedly extolled. It contains 
 12,635 inhabitants, exclusive of the students ; it has suffered much from the horrors of war ; twice 
 it was reduced to ashes, with the exception of one house, which still remains, and gives some 
 idea of its former splendour, by the richly decorated facade, ornamented with statues, coats of 
 arms, &c. : it is now an inn, called Ziitn Ritter, from the figure of a knight on the top ; the 
 house stands in the Market-place. 
 
 The principal curiosities of Heidelberg are the Castle, which is one of the finest ruins in 
 Germany, and commanding extensive views of the valley below. It is also highly interesting from 
 its varied fortunes, its truly picturesque situation, and the relics which still remain of ancient 
 grandeur, and architectural magnificence. It has three times been set on fire, once by lightning, 
 and twice during war. One part cannot fail to be interesting to the traveller, from 
 its having been built for the reception of the daughter of James I., the princess Elizabeth 
 Stuart, and the grand-daughter of the beautiful but unfortunate Mary, Queen of Scots. It 
 is called the English Palace, and was, with tlie triumphal arch, erected by her husband, tlie 
 Elector Frederick V., afterwards King of Bohemia, in celebration of their nuptials. 
 
 -f^._v.'.-* *^* 
 
 1 111-, lilt ll>(i.LMUKO TON. 
 
MATENCE. 
 
 171 
 
 INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER. 
 
 1 Cathedral. 
 
 2 Theatre. 
 
 3 Statue of Guttemburg, 
 
 4 Com IMagazine. 
 
 5 Town Hall. 
 
 6 Palace of Justice. 
 
 7 Arsenal. 
 
 8 Teutonic House. 
 
 9 Palace (now a warehouse.) 
 10 Library. 
 
 11 Government Offices. 
 
 12 Post Office. 
 
 13 Office Cologne Steamers. 
 
 14 Office DusseldorfT Steamers. 
 
 MAYENCE. 
 
 Rhine. 
 
 Angleterre. 
 Hollandischer. 
 
 HOTELS. 
 
 The Teutonic House, once the abode of 
 Napoleon. 
 
 The Public Gardens. 
 The Tower of Drusus. 
 
 CHiEr THINGS TO BE SEEx IX MAVEXCE. | Mayence Is the itiost important town in the 
 
 The Cathedral (a. d. 978.), and the tombs i territory of the Grand Duke of Hesse-Darm- 
 
 witliin it. stadt, and the strongest fortress of the German 
 
 The Museum, formerly the palace of the Confederation. It is garrisoned by Prussian 
 
 Electors. and Austrian troops, commanded by a governor 
 
172 
 
 TUE KHIXK BOOK. 
 
 elected alternately from both nations for a 
 certain period of years. IVIayence is situated 
 on the left bank of the Rhine, in a rich and 
 fertile country ; it is connected by a bridge of 
 boats with the stronj;ly fortified faubourg of 
 Cassel. Tlie population of ^Mayence is about 
 31,200 ; the garrison consists of 8000 men. 
 
 The venerable Cathedral, in the centre of the 
 town, has suffered much from conflagrations, 
 from the being bombarded by the Prussians, and 
 afterwards from having been used by the French 
 as a magazine and barrack ; a very small portion 
 of the original structure now remains ; the 
 interior contains many remarkable monuments. 
 
 Mayence also contains a Museum of paintings, 
 and many curious antiquities found in the 
 neighbourhood ; a monument to Gutemburg ; 
 a public library ; and a new and handsome 
 theatre. The old Roman tower of Drusus, 
 said to be the tomb of Drusus, deserves to be 
 visited on account of the fine view it commands 
 from the top. 
 
 Outside the fortifications are some public 
 gardens, from which a beautiful view of the 
 town and the surrounding country is obtained. 
 The military Austrian and Prussian bands play 
 here. They also play every day on parade 
 during the summer months. 
 
 The gates of the town are shut at 10 o'clock, 
 and are only opened to those who travel by 
 eilwayen or extra-post. 
 
 Wiesbaden is eight miles distant from iMay- 
 ence ; a railroad is now in full operation. 
 
 Railway to Frankfurt in one hour and a 
 half: — to Wiesbaden in a quarter of an hour. 
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM MAYENCE. 
 
 Miles. 
 Fare Is. to Wiesbaden (Railway) - 6 
 
 Fare 3s. 6d. to Frankfurt ditto - - 22 
 
 to Mannheim - - . 46^ 
 
 The best route to Heidelburg is by steam-boat 
 to Mannheim, and thence by railway. 
 
 UANSMKIU. 
 
MANNHEIM. 
 
 173 
 
 INTERCHAPTERS FOR THE TRAVELLER. 
 
 1 Palace. 
 
 2 Church of the Jesuits. 
 
 3 Observatory. 
 
 4 Theatre. 
 
 5 Arsenal, 
 
 6 New Barracks. 
 
 7 Town Warehouse. 
 
 8 Lutheran Church. 
 
 9 Protestant Church. 
 
 10 Lyceum. 
 
 1 1 Courts of Law. 
 
 12 Cabinet of Fine Arts. 
 
 13 Market. 
 
 14 Botanical Garden. 
 13 Public School. 
 
 16 Court of Chancery. 
 
 17 Government Office. 
 
 18 House of Correction. 
 
 J9 Picture Gallery. 
 20 Corn Market. 
 5?1 Neue Planken. 
 
 22 Straw Market. 
 
 23 Bath. 
 
 MANNHEIM. 
 
 HOTELS. 
 
 De 1' Europe. 
 Pfalzer. 
 Rheinischer. 
 Russischer. 
 
 Mannheim is a large and handsome town in 
 the territory of the grand duchy of Baden ; it is 
 situated on the left bank of the Rhine. For- 
 merly it was a strong fortress, and in consequence 
 
 has been exposed to various sieges ; twice it 
 has been burnt to ashes by the French and 
 Austrians. 
 
 The chief point of attraction at Mannheim 
 is the society formed by the amiable Grand 
 Duchess and her Court. Many English have 
 taken up their residence here chiefly on that 
 account. The Palace is a large red structure ; 
 a part of it is occupied by the Grand Duchess ; 
 one wing is appropriated for the Museum, and 
 
174 
 
 THK RHIVE BOOK. 
 
 another, wliich contained the Theatre, was 
 burnt by the Austrians, and is still in ruins. 
 The gardens of the Palace overlook the Rhine, 
 and form a delightful promenade. 
 
 In the environs are some private gardens 
 situated on the banks of the river Neckar, 
 which add much to the beauty of Mannheim. 
 
 The Theatre is good, and its orchestra is not 
 to be surpassed in this part of Germany. 
 
 The church of the Jesuits is generally 
 visited. 
 
 The gardens Schwetzingen are about 9 miles 
 
 from Mannheim, and can be visited on the way 
 to Heidelburg. 
 
 There are diligences daily to Carlsruhe, 
 Heidelburg, Frankfurt, and Mayence. 
 
 Mannheim is remarkable for its cleanliness, 
 and contains about 20,630 inhabitants. In 
 summer this city presents a bustling appearance 
 from the immense number of travellers who 
 disembark here from the steam-packets; most 
 of them remain a day or two to view the town, 
 the gardens, and the environs. 
 
 mm 
 
 
 
 
 
 --^■ 
 
 
 '- ;: .xr^ 
 
 -Miiife^^- ^ 
 
 
 V^^ 
 
 :\\uii 
 
 WlKHHAnKN. 
 
 1 Palacp of the DuVc. 
 
 •2 I.ihrrin. 
 
 3 KursHiil. 
 
 i Colonnade. 
 
 .O 'J'hcatre. 
 
 fi Hoiliiie Sprlnjj. 
 
 7 Four Sf.xsons' hotel. 
 
 8 Wilhehti StrasfiO. 
 !) Frie<lriih Strassc. 
 
 10 Luiscn Sirasse. 
 
 1 1 Schwalliarhcr Strasse. 
 
 12 Nero Stras-sc. 
 
 13 Taiinus Stra.s*e. 
 
 14 Nacli dein (u-islfprp. 
 
 l/i RtcinRasse. 
 Ifi Am KiimiT Rerg. 
 17 Weber liasse. 
 IN Saal^asse. 
 
 19 LanR Ga««». 
 
 20 Mcl/ger Gasse. 
 
 21 Am Mioheis Her*;. 
 Ti Kirchnasse. 
 23 Nt'U <ia-sse. 
 21 MUhlKUsso. 
 2.'t Markt Sira^se. 
 Mt MatuT^n^e. 
 
WIESBADEN. 
 
 175 
 
 WIESBADEN. 
 
 An English surgeon, Mr. Edwin Lee, in 
 his medical work, affords us the best account 
 of Wiesbaden, and also an analysis of its 
 waters. 
 
 Wiesbaden, the capital of the Duchy of 
 Nassau, is about an hour's drive from Mayence, 
 and three from Frankfurt. It lies in a valley, 
 encircled by low hills ; behind which, on the 
 north and north-west, rises the range of the 
 Taunus Mountains, whose dark foliage forms 
 an agreeable contrast to the brighter green of 
 the meadows and the white buildings of the 
 town. Within the last few years several new 
 streets have been erected : the Wilhelmstrasse, 
 fronting the promenades, would bear a com- 
 parison with some of the finest streets in 
 Europe ; it consists principally of lodging- 
 houses elegantly fitted up. The Kurhaus der 
 Vier Jahrzeiten, or principal hotel and bathing- 
 house, forms one corner of this street and one 
 side of a square; on the opposite side of which 
 stands the handsome new theatre, where the 
 Mayence company performs during the season. 
 Across the road lies a verdant meadow, bor- 
 dered by avenues of limes and chestnut trees ; 
 beyond which are colonnades for shops, and the 
 Kursaal, which contains a handsome saloon for 
 dinners on fete days and public balls, with 
 smaller rooms for refreshment and games of 
 hazard. The ground behind this building and 
 the colonnades is laid out as a public garden, 
 adorned with shrubs and parterres of roses, and 
 shaded by acacias and other trees, the resort of 
 numerous singing birds. From this pleasure 
 ground an agreeable path is continued by the 
 side of a streamlet up the valley of Sonnenberg, 
 beyond the ruins of the ancient castle. 
 
 Nothing has been neglected to render Wies- 
 baden the most frequented watering-place in 
 Germany ; the walks and drives are pleasing ; 
 and from the rising grounds the Rhine, with 
 Mayence and other towns on its banks, are seen. 
 A hunting-box of the Duke's stands in a con- 
 
 spicuous position, on an elevated ridge of the 
 Taunus, and commands a fine prospect over an 
 extensive tract of variegated country, including 
 the richest part of the Rheingau. At Biberich 
 on the river, four English miles from Wiesbaden, 
 the Duke has a chateau where he usually re- 
 sides ; the garden is tastily laid out a I'Anglaise, 
 and admission is granted to strangers. 
 
 The population of Wiesbaden amounts to 
 about 8000 persons, mostly Protestants, consist- 
 ing of the military, government employes, 
 tradespeople, and others connected with the 
 bathing establishments. The people through- 
 out the duchy appear to be industrious and 
 contented. Sunday is with them a gala day : 
 the shops at Wiesbaden continue open, as also 
 the theatre and ball-room, which are filled with 
 visitors from Frankfurt, Mayence, and other 
 parts in the neighbourhood. On these occa- 
 sions some hundreds of persons dine at the 
 tables-d'hote of the Kursaal, the Vier Jahrzeiten, 
 and the Adier. Most of the English visitors 
 remaining at Wiesbaden and other watering- 
 places on the continent dine at the tables-d'hote, 
 private dinners being frequently composed of 
 dishes warmed up a second time. 
 
 The springs of Wiesbaden were used in the 
 time of the Romans, and have always enjoyed a 
 high reputation. Within the last few years the 
 place has been greatly frequented by the En- 
 glish, to whom it presents many advantages in 
 the superiority of its accommodations, its de- 
 lightful environs, and its comparatively short 
 distance from England, which may be reached 
 in four days by descending the Rhine. The 
 efficacy of the waters, which are among the 
 most powerful of their class, is a great induce- 
 ment for invalids to prefer it to other conti- 
 nental watering-places ; in some cases, however, 
 their action is too exciting, and others less 
 powerful, as Baden-Baden, are found to agree 
 better. 
 
 The Kochbrunnen, or boiling spring, is the 
 
176 
 
 THE KIIIX1-: BOOK. 
 
 most generally used : it rises in the town, and 
 is the central point where a crowd of persons of 
 various nations assemble at stated hours to sip 
 their glasses of water, while sauntering about 
 under the acacia avenues, and listening to the 
 musical band. The water is perfectly limpid 
 when taken into a glass ; its taste is rather 
 agreeable than otherwise, and has been com- 
 pared to that of weak broth over-salted ; its 
 temperature is 151^ Fahrenheit. The ca-bonic 
 acid gas is seen bubbling up to the surface of 
 tlie water ; the quantity contained in a pint 
 amounts, according to Ritter, to 6^ cubic inches. 
 This spring holds in solution a greater quan- 
 tity of saline substances than any otluT of the 
 same class ; those of Pyrmont and Borcette, 
 perhaps, excepted. The Kochbrunnen supplies 
 the public baths and the liospital, which are 
 close to it, the hotel of the Vier Jahrzeiten, and 
 some bathing-houses. The temperature of the 
 spring at the Adler, and of the others, is some- 
 what lower than that of the Kochbrunnen ; 
 there is, howuver, no very material difference 
 with respect to their chemical composition. 
 
 Used in the form of bath, the water is gene- 
 rally exciting; it stimulates jjowerfully the skin 
 and absorbent system, not unfrequently pro- 
 ducing an eruption on the surface, whence the 
 excitement is transmitted to internal parts, es- 
 pecially the abdominal viscera, increasing the 
 activity of their functions, though in many cases 
 no perceptible cliange is experienced at the 
 time. Internally taken it promotes digestion, 
 sometimes producing an aperient effect : fre- 
 quently increases the secretion of the kidneys, 
 and acts consecutively upon the skin. Most 
 invalids combine the internal with the external 
 use of the water. 
 
 A course of this water is S])eci:illy applicable 
 to cases of articular rheumatism, with swellings 
 o; the joints of long duration ; chronic gout. 
 
 particularly when accompanied with calcareous 
 deposits; disorder of the digestive powers, with 
 vitiated secretion ; strumous enlargement of 
 the glands, or disease of bones ; derangement of 
 the general heklth in persons who have long 
 resided in tropical climates, as well as that 
 caused by intemperance, or the abuse of mer- 
 cury, when not attended by exceeding debility ; 
 some cases of neuralgia and tic ; amenorrhea, 
 and dysinenorrhea, if unaccompanied witli a 
 high degree of local irritation ; paralytic affec- 
 tions, especially if caused by morbid impres- 
 sions upon the organic nervous system, and not 
 depending upon cerebral disease ; and some 
 chronic diseases of the skin. It is also said to 
 be efficacious in bronchial complaints and 
 asthma, with copious expectoration ; in these 
 cases the inhalation of the vapour is joined to 
 the employment of the water. Douches, local 
 and general vapour baths, are used in many 
 cases of local disease, as is also occasionally the 
 muddy sediment deposited from the water. 
 
 SOLID SUBSTANTK VIFLDEn BY A PINT OF 
 FROM THE KOCMBKUNNEN, ANALYSED 
 KASTNER. 
 
 Muriate of soda 
 
 Sulphate of soda 
 
 Muriate of lime 
 
 Sulphate of litne 
 
 Carbonate of lime 
 
 Muriate of magnesia - 
 
 Carbonate of magnesia 
 
 Extractive matter 
 
 Iron - - - - 
 
 Muriate of potass 
 
 Fluate of magnesia 
 
 WATER 
 BV - 
 
 Grains. 
 
 44-Q25 
 0-700 
 5-480 
 0-420 
 1 -650 
 0-790 
 0-700 
 J -750 
 0-07S 
 1-200 
 1 -OW 
 
 57-393 
 
1\ 
 
 iPPENDIX. 
 
 I. DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF THE WORKS OF ART IN THE 
 
 MUSEUM AT ANTWERP. 
 
 II. DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF THE PICTURES IN THE 
 MUSEUM AT BRUSSELS 
 
 A A 
 
I. 
 
 NOTICE 
 
 DES TABLEAUX EXrOSES AU MUSEE D'ANVERS. 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 DusciiiJt-on. 
 
 In 
 
 CONNO 
 
 QuiNTEN Metsvs, dit le IMaiechal 
 d'Anvers, nt'' a Anvers vers 1450, 
 mort dans la meme ville en 1529. 
 
 Tableau gothique. 
 
 Fete du sernieiit des Archers d'Anvers, dit .Ion- 
 gen Handboog. 
 
 EUe a lieu devant un chateau ; le roi de la I'ete 
 est assis sous un dais, dont le fond en dossier 
 porte une grande clef en or : on lui verse a 
 boire et une jeune dame lui ofTre une pomme, 
 deux fous, tels qu'ils s'en trouvait ancienne- 
 ment attaches aux corps des sennens font leurs 
 Esbats de saillie. — Les armes d'Espagne et 
 d'Anvers, qu'on voit dans les croisees et autres 
 parties du tableau, semblent indi(juer que la 
 fete a lieu vers la fin du 15" siecle ; apparem- 
 ment a I'oceasion du mariage de Irliilippe 
 d'Autriclie avec Jeanne d'Arragon. 
 
 Ce tableau a passe pour etre de Hans Verbeeck, 
 nonime Hans de Malines. 
 
 Tableaux avec volets. 
 
 L'Inhumation de Jesus Christ. 
 
 Les amis de Jesus, apres avoir descendu son corps 
 de la croix, lui rendent les derniers devoirs. 
 La Vierge, dont la cuisante douleur s'allie a 
 une profoiide veneration, s'est prosternee de- 
 vant les restes inanimes de son divin fils et leur 
 fait ses adorations; St. Jean la soutient. deux 
 vieillards venerables soulevent I'un le chef, 
 I'autre la partie superieure du corps du Sau- 
 veur, pendant que les saintes femmes en em- 
 
180 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Nanu 
 
 QlUNTKN MeTSYS 
 
 I N CON Nil 
 
 Description. 
 
 baument les plaies. On voit a droite sur le 
 second plan, le sepulcre, qu'on prepare pour 
 rccevoir le corps, le calvaire sur un plan plus 
 eieve et a gaucliu la viile de Jerusalem. 
 
 Volet de droite. 
 
 La tete de St. Jean Baptiste sur la table 
 d'H erode. 
 
 Volet de gauche. 
 
 Saint Jean dans I'huile bouillante. 
 
 Ces trois tableaux forment un dos plus prcfioux 
 monuniens de cette epoque de Tart, et on pout 
 les considerer comnie les eliefsd"n.'uvre de ce 
 grand maitre, qui d'apres une tradition assez 
 generalement re^ue, echangea, inspir^ par 
 Tamour, le marteau pour la palette, et qui 
 d'habile fqrgeron, devint ainsi un des premiers 
 peintres de son tems. 
 
 D'apres Alexandre Van Forncnbergh, le corps des 
 menuisiers de cette ville fit faire ces tableaux 
 en 1508 et s'arrangea avec le maitre pour la 
 somme de trois cents florins. — Un acte, sous 
 la date du 26 aout Ijll, qui repose dans les 
 archives de cette ville, fait supposer que cette 
 somme ne liii fut payee qu'en partie et que ce 
 corps s'acquitta du reste par la constitution 
 d'une rente perpetuelle, au profit des enfans de 
 Metsys. IMalgre cette penurie apparcnte il 
 refusa, d'apres Karel ^'an INIander, une otlre 
 considerable que I'hilippe II. ha fit faire pour 
 ces ouvrages. lis furent sauves des devasta- 
 tions exercees par les Iconoclastes, et ayant ete 
 vendus en 1577, le peintre Martin De \'os in- 
 sista si fortement pres du magistrat, que celui- 
 ci se deeida li les acheter. II en fit rac(|uisi- 
 tion au prix de fl. l.'JOO, et deslors ils orncrent 
 la chapelle, (]ue le magistrat avoit dans la ca- 
 thedrale, juscju'a I'epocjue de renlevcment de 
 nos objets d'art en 1794, aucjuel on fut assez 
 heureiix de les soustraire. 
 
 Au has du grand tableau se trouve jdacee I'anci- 
 enne ])ierre st'pulerale de ce maitre, et son 
 Epitapiie se voit a coti' de Tentree ))rincipale 
 de I'eglise de Notre- Dame en cette ville. 
 
 La Vierge montre le petit Jesus, qu'clle tient 
 assis sur une table. 
 
 I>'Adoration des I\I;iges. 
 
 Ce tableau |)assait autrefois ])our etie de Josse 
 Van Cleef, surnomme le fou, i)eintre d'Anvers, 
 un des doyens de la corporation de St. Luc ile 
 cette ville en 151!). 
 
 La Transfiguration. 
 
 Le tahii'au ])()rte la date de 1 5,')0. 
 
 Le Sauveur deseendu dc la eroix. La N'ioriji.', 
 
ATPliNDlX. 
 
 181 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist'.-> Niuni'. 
 
 GiLi.Es MosTAERX, lit a Ilulst, iiiort 
 en 1598. 
 
 lOetll Aduien TiumiAs Keii, 1575. 
 
 12 
 
 1:5 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 16 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 L'O 
 
 il 
 
 Inconnu 
 
 Fran^'ois I'ourbus, ne a Bruges en 
 1540, mort a An vers, eleve tie son 
 pere Pierre Pourbus et de Fraiis 
 Floris. 
 
 MicHKL CoxiE, dit le Raphael, ne a 
 Malines en 1497, mort a Anvers 
 en 1592, eleve de Bernard \'an 
 Orley. 
 
 Pierre Bueughicl, dit Ic vieux, ne a 
 Breughel, ))res de Breda : il fiit 
 rc^u dans la Corjioratioii de Saint 
 Luc de cette ville en 1551. 
 
 Francois be Vriendt, dit P'rans 
 Floris, ne :i Anvers en 15'20, mort 
 dans la ineine ville en 1570. 
 
 Description. 
 
 St. Jean, la Madelaine, et plusieurs aiities dc 
 ses amis lui reiulent les derniers devoirs. 
 
 Huit portraits d'hommes en exvoto ; au milieu 
 dans un cadre separe, on voit Jesus Christ en 
 croix, entre la Vierge et Saint Jean. 
 
 Exvoto de deux pieces representant Tune les 
 horames, I'autre les femmes de la famille 
 Franco-y- Feo-de-Briez. 
 
 Portrait d'homme. 
 
 Tableau de forme ronde et qui seinhle appar- 
 tenir au terns de Pourbus le pere. 
 
 St. Eloy, prechant devant un nomiireux audi 
 toire. 
 
 St. Eloy, d'abord orfevre du roi Clotaire II. jniis 
 tresorier de Dagobert, tut nomine a I'eveche 
 de Noyon en 640. II a ete un des premiers 
 apotres du christianisme dans ce pays, et y 
 preclia vers 650. 
 
 Le INIaityre de Saint Sebastien. 
 
 St. Sebastien fut martyrise a Rome en 288, sous 
 la longue et cruelle persecution de Diocletien 
 et Maximien : il tenait un premier rang dans 
 les armees romaines, et les chretiens avaient eu 
 en lui jui-ques-la un puissant protecteur, quand 
 la rage de la persecution Teiiveloppa dans le 
 sanglant decret de ces empereurs, le([uel 
 n'epargna ni rang ni condition. 
 
 La tradition porte que le peintre fit ce tableau a 
 82 ans. 
 
 Le Martyre d'un saint. 
 
 Le Martyre d'un saint. 
 
 Jesus Christ ressuscite et assis sur son tombeau, 
 triomphe de la mort et du peche. 
 
 Le Portement de la Croix. 
 
 Tableau qui fuurmille de figures : il est remar- 
 qiiable par les idees bizarres (ju'il represente. 
 
 St. Luc devant son chev;det. 
 
 C'est le portrait de Rytkaert Aerts dit Ryck- 
 metter-stelt, peintre et ami de Floris, ne a 
 Wyck-sur-mer en 1482, et qui mourut a Anvers 
 en 1577. Derriere lui est un homme occupe a 
 broyer les couleiirs, et a ses pieds le bceuf, signe 
 symbolique de TEvangeliste Luc : il porte sur 
 le front les armes de la corporation sous Tinvo- 
 cation de ce Saint, dont les peintres, sculpteurs, 
 graveurs, etc. firent partie. 
 
 I. a Vierge adore le divin Enfant auquel elle 
 vient de donner naissance, derriere elle on voit 
 Sai t Jose])li: ks bergers accourent et se pros- 
 ternent, en faisant leurs oflfraiides. 
 
 La chute des anges rebelles. 
 
 L'executi.Mi de ce tableau doit faire rcgretter' 
 
1S2 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. 
 
 Artivt's Naint 
 
 Deseript'ioi). 
 
 23 
 
 '24 
 
 26 
 
 -27 
 
 'iS 
 
 'J!) 
 31 
 
 VHA 
 
 Vki 
 
 Le 'I'niKN, lie a (^adoix' d.ins le 
 Fiioiil, en 1477, inort de la jieste 
 a W'lusL" en 1576. 
 
 I NCO^^'li 
 
 Martin de Vos, ne a Anvers en 
 1524, eleve de Fraiis Kloiis et dii 
 Tiiitoret : iiii des doyens de la 
 Corporation de St. Liic en 157'2, 
 inort ii Anvers en 1G()4. 
 
 qu2 Ic siijet ait jettc i'auteiir dans un amas do 
 tant de bizarrcries et d'idees fantasti(jues. Les 
 anges, qui precipitent leurs compajjnons rc- 
 prouves, attestent cepend mt coinbieii il meri- 
 tait le siirnom de Raphael de l-landre, iju'on 
 lui a donnL". 
 Portrait d'un Chanoine, derrlire leqiiel on voit 
 
 Saint Luc. 
 Le Papc Alexandre VL iire-^ente a St. Pierre 
 I'eveqiie de Paptios (de la famille venitieiiiie 
 Pesaro) qii'il a iioinme arniral de ses galeres, 
 destinies a agir conjointement avec les forces de 
 Venise centre les 'I'urcs. Pesaro est en lial)it 
 de I'ordre de Saint Dominique, et tient d'une 
 main I'jtendard de I'Kglise, qui porte a la partie 
 superieure de la banderolle les amies de Horgia. 
 Ix' Tableau porte cette inscription : Uitratto 
 U!io de casa Pesaro, die su fatto generale di 
 St. Chiesa. Titiano feet. 
 Sa !\L-ijeste fit present de ce tableau au IMuseo 
 
 d' Anvers en 1823. 
 Une Fete de village. 
 Ce Tableau semble etre peint vers le milieu du 
 
 16« siecle. 
 Jesus Christ ressuseite. 
 
 Au cote droit on voit Saint George en pkine 
 armure ; a gauche Sainte Marguerite : sur le 
 devant Saint I'ierre et Paul (jui tiennent des 
 livres, offVant des passages de TEcriture, (jtii 
 traitent de la Resurrection du Sauveur. 
 Constantin fait batir a Constantinople I'Eglise, 
 qu'il dedia a la Sagesse uternelle, sous le nom 
 de Sainte Soiihie. On voit cet Empereur, 
 avec line sLiite de sa coiir, au milieu des archi- 
 tectes et des ouvriers. 
 Le Bapteme de Constantin. 
 Ces deux deriiiers numeros ont servis de volets 
 
 au 11° 25. 
 Les Pharisieiis, s'l'tant joints aux Ilerodiens, 
 veuillent eprouver .Jesus et lui teiidre line ein- 
 biiche, oil il devait se trouver eiitre le choix et 
 la vindicte de I'autorite et de la haine liii 
 peuple : iis lui deniandent s'il etait perinis de 
 ))ayer le trihut il ("a'sar. Le Sauveur confond 
 leiir astuce par la sage sentence, ipii leiir re- 
 niontre, (]u'il y a des devoirs eiivers le Prince 
 comme il y en a eiivers Dieu. 
 La valeiir de la modi(]ue ollVande de la jiauvre 
 
 veuve. 
 Les .Ajiotres trouvent dans un poisson de (|uoi 
 
 jiayer le trihut. 
 I^e Sauveur coidoiul I'incredulitt' de ."^aiut 
 
 TIlllIIKlS. 
 
APPKNDIX. 
 
 1H3 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 3'i 
 
 S4 
 
 Martin Uk Vos 
 
 fi5 
 
 36 
 57 
 
 38 
 
 39 
 40 
 
 41 
 
 42 
 4;J 
 
 44 
 
 Franck, dit le Viki;x 
 
 Francois Franck, iin des doyens dc 
 la corporation de Saint Luc de cttte 
 ville en 1588. 
 
 Disfriptiuii 
 
 Le Bapteme de Jesus ( hrist. 
 
 La Decollation de Saint Jean Ba])tiste. 
 
 Ces deux derniers numeros ont scrvis de volet an 
 No. SI. 
 
 Les Tentations de Saint Antoine. 
 
 Le sujet est en partie tiaite dans le style bur- 
 lesque, comme on le represente ordinairement ; 
 en partie il est hlstorique, comme montrant 
 divers passages de la vie du Saint, le ])rinci])al 
 est celui de la visite que le Saint fit a Saint 
 Paul, premier ermite. La legende dit, qu' An- 
 toine, etant venu voir celui-ci, il le trouva 
 pres de sa fin : a sa priere il le quitta, pour 
 aller chercher le manteau de Saint Atlianase, 
 
 - dans lequel il desirait de mourir ; mais a son 
 retour le Saint Anachorete etait expire. Em- 
 barrasse dans les moyens pour mettre le corps 
 en terre, deux lions snrvinrent et firent la fosse. 
 IjC peintre a ar.ssi eu en vue d'indiquer, par le 
 couvent qui s'eleve a droite, que Saint Antoine 
 doit etre considere aussi bien comme Patriarche 
 des Cenobites que des Anaclioretes. 
 
 St. Iaic occupe a peindre la Ste. Vierge. 
 
 Ce tableau est peint en 1.57'2 pour I'autel qu'avait 
 la corporation de Saint I>uc dans la Cathedrale 
 de cette ville : Saint Luc est le portrait 
 du maitre, et la Sainte Vierge celui de sa 
 femme. 
 
 Deux petites Grisailles, representant des actes 
 de charite. 
 
 Jesus Christ se fait connaitre, au moment de la 
 fraction du pain, des deux disciples, qui I'avaient 
 accompagne a Emaiis. 
 
 La Sainte Congregation des premiers Fideles est 
 assemblee, pour I'election de deux Apotres : 
 Saint Pierre officie et le Saint Esprit designe 
 par des rayons de lumiere Paul et Barnabas, 
 
 La Nativite de Jesus Christ. 
 
 St. Fran9ois et un autre saint de son ordre. 
 Les onze numeros suivans representent des 
 
 faits de la vie et des miracles de ces deux 
 
 saints. 
 Ce saint compagnon de Saint Francois, encore en 
 
 habits du monde, est agenouille devant I'autel 
 
 de la Vierge. 
 II re9oit I'habit de I'ordre. 
 Se trouvant avec le Saint Instituteur, dans un lieu 
 
 sauvage et desert, ils sont miraculeusenient 
 
 pourvus de nourriture. 
 St. Fran9ois fait sortir sain et sauf d'un font- 
 
 ardent un enfant qui y etait tomhe. 
 
184 
 
 Ari'KXDlX. 
 
 No. 
 
 Ar.ist's X.ii 
 
 4.5 
 
 46 
 
 47 
 48 
 
 49 
 
 50 
 
 51 
 
 r,'2 
 
 54 
 
 55 
 56 
 57 
 58 
 
 59 
 
 CO 
 
 G2 
 
 Francois FuANtK 
 
 Jerome Franck 
 
 Ambroise Fuanck, un des doyens de 
 la corporation de Saint Lucdecette 
 ville en 1582. 
 
 Descrijition. 
 
 Inconnu 
 
 Hans Van Der Ei.kiircht, alias 
 Klein IIawski'.s, nc pies de Cam- 
 pen : rc^ii dans la corporation de 
 Saint Luc de cette ville en 15:55. 
 
 Han.s Jorpaens, ne a Anvers, inort 
 
 a Delft. 
 LamhehtVan Ookt, nea Amersfort. 
 
 St. Fraiifois preche en plclne cninpajinc, derriere 
 lui deux infideles, amies d'arcs et de traits, 
 semblent vouloir decliarger siir le saint le depit 
 et la rage qu'ils ressentent de TeHet que font 
 ses paroles sur I'auditoire. 
 
 St. Francois donne la guerison a divers aveugles, 
 perclus, et autres malades. 
 
 Mort de Saint Francois. 
 
 L'attouchement de son corps rend la vie a une 
 jeune dame expiree. 
 
 Une femme oHre son enfant a St. Francois qui se 
 montre dans une gloire. 
 
 Un enfant ressuscite par I'intcrccssion de Saint 
 Francois. 
 
 Ldtomheau de Saint Fraii^-ois devenu un ohjet de 
 veneration et de recours, tant pour les puissans 
 que pour les malheureux. 
 
 Combat des Horaces et des Curiaces. Grisaille. 
 
 La Cene. 
 
 Jesus benit le calice qui doit circuler entre ses 
 Apotres, pour leur etre un des tv'jJes du tesia- 
 ment qu'il leur legue. 
 
 Le martyre des Saints Crepin et Crepinien. 
 
 Ces deux Saints d'extraction noble, sfellerent la 
 foi de leur sang a Soissons, sous une des plus 
 cruelles persecutions que I'Eglise cut a 
 cssuyer. 
 
 Martyre de Saint Come. 
 
 INIartyre de Saint Damien. 
 
 St. Sebastien parmi les prisonniers. 
 
 St. Sebastien impose les mains a une dame ro- 
 maine, a genoux devant lui. Ce tableau oft're 
 plusieurs portraits, apjiaremnient ceux des 
 donateurs. 
 
 On distingue partieulierement ces trois derniers 
 Franck, nes a Herenthals, qui etaient freres 
 et peintres d'histoire, dont Fran^'ois ^tait I'aine, 
 Jerome le second, et Ambroise le cadet : ce 
 dernier vivait encore en KJOO. 
 
 Le Sauveur en croix enlre la A'itrgc et Saint 
 Jean; la Madelaine, a genoux, adore son 
 divin Maitre. 
 
 Le miracle de la multiplication des pains. 
 
 l)t'])uis trois jours une trou]ie nombreuse 
 suivait Jesus dans le desert; elle etait sans 
 nourriture. Le Sauveur cut \)hw d'elle, 
 et opera cecelebre miracle jiar lecjuel il rassasia 
 cin(i mille hommes de cinq pains et de deux 
 poissons. 
 
 I'liaraoii ])erit avec son armee dans la nier rouge. 
 
 La Uesurrei'liiin de Jesus Cluist. 
 Suite do seul .S\ l)illes. 
 
r 
 
 APPENDIX. 185 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 Description. 
 
 64 
 
 Martin Pepyn, Contemporain de 
 
 Les Israelites ont passe la mer rouge, qui se 
 
 
 Rubens. II quitta jcune encore 
 
 ferme sur Pharaon et son armee. 
 
 
 la patrie, pour aller se ])erfc'Ctionner 
 
 
 
 en Italie : I'acceuil qu'on y fit a 
 
 
 
 ses talens Vy fixa, et nous possedons 
 
 
 
 peu de ses ouvrages. 
 
 
 65 
 
 
 St. Luc preche I'Evanglle a une multitude de 
 tout age et de tout sexe, reunie en pleine cam- 
 pagne. 
 
 Ce tableau ornait la salle aux reunions de la cor- 
 poration de St. Luc. 
 
 66 
 
 OcTAvio VAN Veen (Otto Venius.) 
 
 Acte de charite de Saint Nicolas. 
 
 
 ne a Ley den en 1556, mort a 
 
 St. Nicolas instruit de I'etat de detresse, dans 
 
 
 Bruxelles en 1636, eleve d' Isaac 
 
 lequel se trouve une famille honnete, vient 
 
 
 Swanenhurg : un des doyens de la 
 
 la nuit, pour ne pas etre reconnu, et lui 
 
 
 corporation de Saint Luc de cette 
 
 jette, pendant qu'elle travaille autour d'une 
 
 
 ville en 1605. 
 
 lampe, un sac d 'argent a travers la croissee 
 ouverte. 
 
 67 
 
 ~ " 
 
 Divers miracles de Saint Nicolas. 
 Le maitre represente particulierement dans ce 
 tableau la multiplication du froment. 
 
 68 
 
 
 La vocation de I'Apotre Matthieu. 
 
 Jesus, passant devant le bureau d'impots de Cap- 
 harnaum, vit Matthieu, un des cummis de la 
 recette, il I'invite a le suivre : Matthieu y 
 repond par une pleine docilite et un entier 
 abandon. 
 
 69 
 
 
 Zacliee sur le figuier. 
 
 Desireux de voir le Sauveur, qui passait 
 par Jericho, Zachee, un des principaux 
 publicains, empeche par la foule qui I'en- 
 tourait, monte sur un figuier : Jesus I'apper- 
 cevant, I'invite a descendre et lui demande 
 I'hospitalite. 
 
 70 
 
 
 St. Luc devant le proconsul. 
 
 11 defend avec dignite devant son juge la Doc- 
 trine de son dlvin maitre. 
 Ce tableau a ete peint pour la corporation de 
 Saint Luc, dont il ornait la salle aux reunions. 
 
 71 
 
 - 
 
 Portrait de Sonnius, premier eveque d' An- 
 vers. 
 
 72 
 
 Pierre Paul Rubens, ne a Cologne, 
 de parens Anversois, le 28 Juin, 
 1577, mort a Anvers le 30 Mai, 
 1640, eleve d'Adam Van Oort et 
 d'Octavio Van Veen, un des doyens 
 de la corporation de Saint Luc de 
 cette ville en 1631. 
 
 Le Sauveur en croix entre les deux larrons. 
 
 73 
 
 - 
 
 Ste. Therese intercedant pour les ames du pur- 
 gatoire. 
 
 74 
 
 
 Le Sauveur mort entre les bras de son pere ; le 
 Saint Esprit descend sur cette scene, qui re- 
 presente la Sainte Trinite. 
 
186 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 75 
 76 
 
 77 
 78 
 
 79 
 80 
 
 81 
 
 82 
 
 83 
 84 
 
 85 
 
 86 
 87 
 
 88 
 89 
 
 90 
 
 91 
 
 Pierre Paul Rubens. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Henry Van Bai.kn, nc a Auvers, 
 eleve d'Adam Van Oort : uii des 
 doyens dc la forjioialion de Saint 
 Luc de cette villc en IGOy. 
 
 L'Education de la Sainte Vierge. 
 
 La Communion de Saint Fran9ois. 
 
 St. Fran9ois d'Assise sentant approcher sa fin, 
 
 s'est fait conduire au pied de I'autel pour y 
 
 refevoir le Viatique. 
 11 existe dans la famille Vande Werve. de cette 
 
 ville, la quittance (jue Rubens doinia de 750 
 
 fl' qu'il re9ut pour ce tableau, dont voici la 
 
 teneur : 
 
 Iconderschrevenbekentie ontfanghe te hebben it handen 
 van Mynheer Jaspers Charles de somma van zeven hon- 
 dert en vyftig guUlene, tot volkonieii betalinghe van een 
 stuck Schildery door myne handt gemaeckt, staeiule in 
 Ste. Franciscus Kercke tot Antwerpen. Ende t'oirconde 
 der waerheydt hebbe ic dese quittancie gescreven en on- 
 derteekent deze 17 May IGl'.l. 
 (geteekenz.) Pietro F.^uolo Rvbens. 
 
 L' Adoration des Mages. 
 
 Repetition ou imitation en petit de la Descente 
 
 de Croix de I'eglise de Notre- Dame de cette 
 
 ville. 
 Jesus Christ montre ses plaies a St. Thomas. 
 Le portrait de Nicolas Rockox, Bourguemaitre 
 
 de cette ville, ami de Rubens. 
 Le portrait d'Adrienne Perez, son epouse. 
 Ces deux derniers numeros formaient les volets 
 
 du n". 79, avec lequel ils formaient I'Epitaphe 
 
 de ce Bourguemaitre dans I'eglise des Recol- 
 
 lets de cette ville. 
 Le Sauveur descendu de la croix. 
 
 Le corps du Sauveur, pose sur une pierre, est 
 
 soutenu par la Vierge, Saint Jean et Saint 
 
 Josej)h d' Arithmalie, derriere les(]uels on voit 
 
 la Madelaine. 
 St. Jean Evangeliste. 
 La Vierge avec I'Enfant Jesus. 
 Ces deux derniers numeros formaient les volets 
 
 du n°- 82. 
 La Vierge, I'Enfant Jesus, et St. Joseph. 
 On cioit que Rubens fit present de ce tableau 
 
 a la corporation de Saint Luc, dont il ornait la 
 
 salle aux reunions. 
 Le Sauveur en croix. 
 Esquisse d'un Char triomphal, qui a servi pour 
 
 I'entree solennclle de Tarchiduc Ferdinand. 
 Esquisse d'un arc de tronii)he. 
 Esquisse d'un arc de triompiie. 
 Ces deux ilerniers Escpiisses ont egalement servi 
 
 a I'occasion citee au n". 87. 
 Un concert d'anges. 
 
 Un Idem. 
 
APPENDIX. 187 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 Description. 
 
 92 
 
 Abraham Janssevs, ne et mort a 
 
 Le fleuve I'Escaut et la villed' Anvers ; allugorie ; 
 
 
 Aiivers ; un des doyens de la cor- 
 
 figures de grandeur colossale. 
 
 
 poration de Saint Luc de cette vilie 
 
 Ce tableau ornait autrefois la salle d'audience du 
 
 
 en 1607. 
 
 magistrat de cette ville. 
 
 93 
 
 _ « 
 
 L' Adoration des Wages. 
 
 94 
 
 . - 
 
 La Vierge, 1' Enfant Jesus, et Saint Jean. 
 
 95 
 
 Theodore Rombouts, ne a Anvers 
 
 La Sainte Famille dans un paysage : le paysage 
 
 
 en 1597, eleved' Abraham Janssens; 
 
 est par Wildens. 
 
 
 un des doyens de la corporation de 
 
 
 
 Saint Luc de cette ville en 1628, ou 
 
 
 
 il mourut en 1640. 
 
 
 96 
 
 Gaspar de Craeyer, ne a Anvers en 
 1585: eleve de Coxie, mort a 
 Bruxelles dans un age tres- 
 avancc. 
 
 Elie dans le desert 
 
 97 
 
 CoRNEiLLE DE Vos, ne a Hulst ; un 
 
 La Famille Snoeck offrant des ornemens deglise 
 
 
 des doyens de la corporation de 
 
 a I'abbe de I'abbaye de St. Michel a Anvers. 
 
 
 Saint Luc de cette ville en 
 
 
 
 1619. 
 
 
 98 
 
 
 Le Concierge de la corporation de Saint Luc, 
 d' Anvers. 
 
 11 est decore de medailles et place devant une 
 table, couverte de riches gobelets en vermeil ; 
 triomphes reniportes, ou presens de souverains 
 et de princes, que cette corporation possedait 
 et que les bouleversemens politiques ont fait 
 disparoitre. Un de ces gobelets fut donne a 
 la Corporation par la noblesse d'Anvers ; il 
 portait les portraits de Jean Van Eyck et 
 d' Albert Durer. 
 
 99 
 
 - 
 
 St. Norbert et un autre Saint agenouilles devant 
 le Saint Sacrement. 
 
 ICO 
 
 - 
 
 Exvoto ; portraits de deux epoux agenouilles de- 
 vant la Sainte Vierge. 
 
 101 
 
 - 
 
 Exvoto d'une Famille en priere ; il se compose 
 de deux pieces. 
 
 102 
 
 Simon de Vos, ne a Anvers en 1 603. 
 
 L'Adoration des Mages. 
 
 103 
 
 - 
 
 Exvoto. — Un Donateur et Saint Guillaume. 
 
 104 
 
 _ _ 
 
 Exvoto. — Une Donatrice et Sainte Barbe. 
 
 105 
 
 Jacques Jordaens, ne a Anvers en 
 1594, mort dans la meme ville en 
 1678 : eleve d'Adam Van Oort et 
 de Rubens. 
 
 L'Adoration des Bergers. 
 
 106 
 
 Jacques Jordaens 
 
 Les Soeurs hospitalieres de Sainte Elisabeth. 
 
 107 
 
 • 
 
 Le Sauveur mis au toinbeau. 
 
 108 
 
 
 Le Pegase. 
 
 Ce tableau a servi autrefois de piece de plafond 
 
 dans la salle aux reunions de la corporation de 
 
 Saint Luc. 
 
 109 
 
 . 
 
 La Cene. 
 
 110 
 
 
 La Loi Humaine basee sur la Loi Divine. 
 Ce tableau ornait autrefois la salle aux reunions 
 de la corporation de Saint Luc. 
 
188 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. 
 
 Ill 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 112 
 113 
 
 114 
 
 115 
 
 116 
 117 
 
 118 
 119 
 
 120 
 
 121 
 122 
 12.3 
 
 124 
 125 
 
 126 
 127 
 
 128 
 129 
 
 Description. 
 
 Antoine Van Dyck, ne a Anvers 
 eii 1.599, cleve de H. Van Balen 
 et de Rubens : un des doyens 
 de la corporation de Saint Luc 
 en 1634; mort a Londres en 
 1641. 
 
 Le MEME, OU dans SA MANIERE 
 
 Gerard Seghers, ne a. Anvers en 
 1589, mort dans la meme ville en 
 1651, eleve de H. Van Balen. 
 
 Daniel Seghers et Corneille Schut, 
 Seghers naquit a Anvers en 1590: 
 il fut 61eve de Breughel, dit de 
 Velours. II entra commc frere- 
 lai dans la Society de Jesus, et 
 mourut a. Anvers en 1G60 
 
 CoRNEir.LE SciiuT, ne a Anvers en 
 1590, mort dans la meme ville en 
 1676; eleve de Uubens 
 
 Theodore Van Thulden, ne a Bols- 
 le-l)ucen 1607, eleve de Uubens: 
 il travailla avec lui a la galerie du 
 Luxenil)ourg, et fut un des doyens 
 de la corporation de Saint Luc en 
 1638. 
 
 Jesus Christ en croix, Saint Dominique, et Sainte 
 Catherine de Sienne. 
 
 Le Sauveur mort sur les genoux de la Vierge. 
 
 Meme sujet differemment traite. 
 
 La tradition jiorte que ce tableau a etc peint en 
 Italie. 
 
 Portrait de Caesar Alexandre Scaglia, un des ne- 
 gociateurs ])our I'Espagne au congres de 
 IMuiister : il est appuye sur un piedestal, por- 
 tant une inscription, qui fait connaitre cette 
 circonstance. 
 
 Ce portrait ornait la ci-devant eglise des Recol- 
 lets de cette ville. 
 
 Jesus Christ en croix : tableau de petite dimen- 
 sion. 
 
 Portrait de INIalderus, Eveque d' Anvers. 
 
 Saint Stanislas, entrant dans I'ordre de Saint Ig 
 nace. 
 
 Le mariage de la Vierge. 
 
 La Vierge tient 1' Enfant Jesus, auquel Sainte 
 
 Claire fait ses adorations. » 
 
 Sainte Therese. Un ange lui enflamme le coeur 
 
 de I'aniour divin. 
 La Vierge au scapulaire. 
 Le Sauveur re^-oit en grace les pecheurs. 
 Une grande guirlande de Heurs, au milieu de la- 
 
 quelle on voit Saint Ignace, peint par Schut. 
 
 Une guirlande de flours entoure I'iniage de la 
 
 Vierge, egalement peint par Schut. 
 Le Martyre de Saint George. 
 
 Le Sauveur et la Vierge donnent k Saint l-'ran- 
 9ois rindulgence dite Portiuncula. 
 
 Esquisse d'un arc de trioniphe, (jui a scrvi a I'oc- 
 casion de I'entree de I'archiduc Ferdinand. 
 
 Esquisse d'un autre arc de triomphe, avant servi 
 
 ii la meme occasion. 
 Des assassins |)r6sentent une coupe empoisonnee 
 
 il un religieux de ronlre de Saint Fran(;ois : on 
 
APPENDIX. 189 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 Description. 
 
 
 
 voit au haut du tableau la Vierge dans une 
 
 
 
 gloire. 
 
 130 
 
 TuEonoRE Van Thulden 
 
 Saint Francois dans line gloire. 
 
 ]31 
 
 - 
 
 Le portrait du IJernardin Van Tliulden. 
 
 1.S2 
 
 Francois Snyhehs, ne a Anvers en 
 1579, mort dans la meme ville 
 en 1(;57 ; eleve de Henry Van 
 Balen. 
 
 Du Gibier sur une table. 
 
 133 
 
 - 
 
 Des Cygnes dans I'eau, qui se defendent contre 
 un chien. 
 
 134 
 
 Luc. Francois, ne a Malines en 
 1574; mort dans la meme ville en 
 1643. 
 
 Saint Joachim, Sainte Anne, et la Vierge. 
 
 135 
 
 - 
 
 La Vierge presente le petit Jesus a un Saint 
 Carm lite. 
 
 136 
 
 H. P. Franck 
 
 Apparition de Saint .■\ntoine de Padoue, entoure 
 danges dans une gloire, aux fideles qui veiie- 
 rent son tombeau. 
 
 Ce tableau ornait Tepitaplie d'. Alexandre Vanden 
 Broeck et de son f'rere. 
 
 137 
 
 Adam Wii.LAERTS, ne a Anvers en 
 
 Fete donnee a Tervuren a leurs altesses royales 
 
 
 1577 ; mort a Utrecht. 
 
 Albert et Isabel le. 
 
 138 
 
 GUILI.AUME NlEULANDT, He a An- 
 
 vers en 1584, mort a Amsterdam 
 en 1635; eleve de Savary. 
 
 Vue du Forum et du Campo-vaccir.o a Rome. 
 
 139 
 
 Pierre Van Wol, iie a Anvers en 
 1580, mort a Paris en 1650; eleve 
 de Rubens. 
 
 L'Adoration des M;'.ges. 
 
 140 
 
 Deodat Delmonte 
 
 La Transfiguration. 
 
 141 
 
 Jean Van Bronckhorst, dit Langen 
 Jan, ne a Utrecht en 1603. 
 
 Le portrait d'un homme d'sige. 
 
 142 
 
 David Teniers, le Jeune, ne a An- 
 
 Valenciennes secourue. 
 
 
 vers en 1610: il fut eleve de son 
 
 Valenciennes se trouvait serree de tres-pres, en 
 
 
 pere et doyen de la corporation de 
 
 1656, par Farmee Fran^aise, sousles ordres des 
 
 
 Saint Luc en 1644. 11 est un des 
 
 marechaux DeTurenne et De la Ferte; quand 
 
 
 premiers directeurs de I'academie 
 
 les Espagnols, commandes par Don Juan d' Au- 
 
 
 de dessin de cette ville, pour la- 
 
 triche, fils naturel de Philippe IV. et de IMarie 
 
 
 (]uelle, conjointement avec ses con- 
 
 Calderonne, commcdienne, (jui avait avec lui 
 
 
 freres, il sollieita et ohtint en 1663 
 
 le Grand Conde, <jue des mecontentemens 
 
 
 de Philippe IV., roi d'Espagne, le 
 
 avaient fait quitter la France pour s'attacher a 
 
 
 titre d'Academie Royale. 
 
 TEspagne, vinrent a son secours. La Ferte 
 avait une position tres-desavantageuse et se- 
 paree du corps de Turenne par I'Escaut : celui- 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 ci, qui en sentit tout le danger, tacha de per- 
 suader La Ferte de mettre la riviere entre hii 
 et I'enneini, et de joindre leurs forces, mais in- 
 
 
 
 iitilement : aussi La Ferte fut il attaque et de- 
 
 \ 
 
 
 fait, et Turenne n'o])era sa retraite, qu'a travers 
 les plus grandes difficultes. 
 Le centre du tableau donne le plan de la ville, 
 celui de la position des armees et de leurs 
 mouvemens d'attaque et de defense. Dans la 
 partie superieure, on voit la ville de Valen- 
 
190 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 143 
 
 144 
 
 145 
 
 146 
 147 
 148 
 
 149 
 150 
 
 151 
 
 15'2 
 15:5 
 
 Pi Eli, HE Thys, nu a Aiivers, un des 
 doyens de la corporation de Saint 
 Luc en I66'6; cleve de Antoine 
 Van Dyek. 
 
 Jeav Erasme Q,uei,i,in, nomme le 
 Vieux ; ne a Anvers en 1607, 
 niort dans la meme ville en 1678 ; 
 eleve de Rubens. 
 
 Jean Ebasme Quei-lin, nomme le 
 Jeuiie ; ne a Anvers en 1629, 
 mort dans la meme ville en 1715; 
 eleve de son pere. 
 
 ciennes, que le peintre a placee sous la protec- 
 tion du Saint Sacrement et de la Vierge. Le 
 premier represente avec les accessoires du Sa- 
 crement de Miracle, se trouve au milieu d'une 
 gloire, formee d'une ((uantite d'anges. dont plu- 
 sieurs tiennent baisses et comme trainants des 
 drapeaux pris sur I'armee Fran^aise. 
 
 Le tableau est encadre en son entier dans une 
 espece d'arc de triom])be, forme d'une multi- 
 tude d'armures et d'instrumens de guerre, ren- 
 dus avec ime grandc verite et d'une execution 
 admirable, au milieu desquels on voit, a la ])ai-- 
 tie inferieure, en bronze, le buste de Philippe 
 IV., tenu par Minerve et Hercule. Minerve 
 foule aux pieds la Dlscorde, et a cote d'Hcr- 
 cule le Lion Espagnol tient le Coq, symbole de 
 la France, sous ses griffes. De chaque cote 
 sont plusieurs jjortraits, en medaillon, parnii 
 lesquels on distingue ceux de Don Juan et ile 
 Conde. 
 
 Sa Majeste fit present de ce tableau au Musee 
 d' Anvers en 1823. 
 
 L' .Assumption de la Vierge. 
 
 Un ange presentc Saint Fran9ois a Jesus Cbrist 
 
 et a la Vierge. 
 La \'ierge apparait a Saint Guillaunie due d'.Ac- 
 
 quitaine. 
 Portrait iriiomme. 
 Icare et Dedalc. 
 Saint Brunon guerit par le signe de la croix un 
 
 homme de la morsure d'un serpent. 
 
 Un Enfant est ressuscite i)ar un Saint I^veque. 
 
 Les trois numcros qui suivent forment un trait 
 de I'histoire de nos guerres civiles vers le mi- 
 lieu de le*^ siecle, et representent les Martyrs de 
 Gorcum 
 
 Le ])remier fait voir deux Ucligieux, premontres, 
 con<luits par une forte garde, a pied et a clieval, 
 vers une prison, devant laquelle se trouve dejii 
 un grand nombre de personnes de differens 
 sexes et conditions. 
 
 Dans le second on voit dans une des salles d'une 
 abbaye le tribunal qui va prononcer sur leur 
 sort. 
 
 Dans le troisieme on voit le supplice des con- 
 damnes, qui a lieu dans une grange. 
 
 Le Sauveur au repas de Simon Ic Pliarisien, la 
 pecheresse est a .ses ])ieds. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 191 
 
 No. 
 
 154 
 
 155 
 156 
 
 156* 
 
 157 
 157* 
 
 158 
 
 159 
 160 
 161 
 
 16'i 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 163 
 
 164 
 165 
 
 166 
 
 167 
 168 
 
 169 
 
 Jean Erasme Quellin 
 
 Caspar Van Opstal, un des doyens 
 de la corporation de Saint Luc, et 
 un des directeurs de 1' Academic de 
 cette ville en 1598. 
 
 T. Boetersiane, eleve de Antoine 
 Van Dyck. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Saint Brunon re9oit du Pape I'approbation de sa 
 
 regie. 
 
 Thierrv Van Det.en et Boeyer- 
 mans. Van Delen naquit a Heus- 
 deii : il fut eleve de Francois 
 Hals, florlssait en 1 625, et mourut 
 a Arnemuyden en Z^'lande. 
 
 Keerings et A. Genoels 
 
 G. Maes, un des doyens de la corpo- 
 ration de Saint Luc, et un des di- 
 recteurs de r Academic de c>.tte 
 ville en 1682. 
 
 Pierre Van Lint 
 
 Le Martyre de Sainte Agathe. 
 
 La Piscine de Bethsa'ide. 
 
 Ce tableau, qui pour la dimension est un des 
 plus extraordinaires que Ton ccnnoisse, est aussi 
 une des plus fastueuses compositions que la 
 peinture ait produites, et le chef-d'oeuvre 
 reconnu de ce maitre. 
 
 La partie superieur du tableau representant La 
 Piscine de Bethsa'ide. 
 
 Cette magnifique composition servait d'epitaphe, 
 comme le temoigne I'inscription placee au has 
 du numero 156. 
 
 Portrait de Gaspar Nemius, 6^ eveque d'Anvers. 
 
 Portrait de Aub. Vanden Eede, 8'^ eveque d'An- 
 vers. 
 
 Jesus Christ apparait a Saint Jean de la croix, 
 Carmelite. 
 
 Personnages de haut rang, qui se presentent 
 devant un jeune monarque. 
 
 Jesus Christ la Source du Salut et de la Gueri- 
 son : tableau allegorique. 
 
 L' Academic d'Anvers, mere nourriciere de la 
 peinture, distribue des encouragemens : on y 
 volt les portraits de Iliibens et de Van Dyck 
 
 Ce tableau represente une Iteunion de Famille : 
 on y distingue une vieille dame en habits de 
 devote, deux jeunes epoux et deux ecclesias- 
 tiques : la tradition dit, que cette famille se 
 distingua par ses bienfaits envers le Seminaire 
 de cette ville. 
 
 Dans une magnifique architecture, qui represente 
 le temple de la Paix, on voit cette bienfaisante 
 Deesse, entouree de la Peinture et de la Poesie, 
 dont elie est la protectrice : des genies chassent 
 du temple le demon de la discorde. 
 
 Minerve et \(jr, Muses dans un paysage. Le pay- 
 sage est de Keerings. 
 
 Le Martyre de Saint George. 
 
 Saint George occupa un rang distingue dans les 
 armies Romaines : il fut decapite sous Dio- 
 cletien. 
 
 Le portrait d'un frere Cellite. 
 
 Sainte Catherine. 
 
 Portrait du Cardinal Gitmazio, patron de I'au- 
 teur. Une inscription sur ce tableau porte 
 que par cet ouvrage il remporta le prix a 
 Rome en 1639. 
 
 Reunion de plusieurs personnes des deux sexes, 
 qui se reposent au bord d'une riviere. 
 
192 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 Description. 
 
 170 
 
 Jeak Cossiers, ne a Anvers en 1603, 
 eleve de (.'oriieille de A'os; iin des 
 doyens de la corporation de Saint 
 Luc en 1639. 
 
 L'Adoration des Bergers. 
 
 171 
 
 - 
 
 Meme sujet quele numero precedent, de moindre 
 dimension, et varie pour la conii)osition. 
 
 172 
 
 - 
 
 Un Gentilliomme allumantsa pipe: il est accom- 
 pagne d'un page, (jui hii verse a boire. 
 
 IT.', 
 
 - 
 
 La Flagellation. 
 
 174 
 
 . 
 
 Portrait d'lm C'liirurgien. 
 
 17.5 
 
 Jean Van HoEcK,neetmort a Anvers 
 
 Saint Fran^'ois fait ses adorations a la \'ierge. 
 
 176 
 
 P. Thys, Dominicain a Anvers. 
 
 Le Sauveur descendu de la croix. 
 
 177 
 
 Raphael Van Orley 
 
 Marche triompliale du Pape et de rEm))ereur 
 Charles Quint a Rome. 
 
 178 
 
 Herheyns, nomme le Vieux, ne et 
 mort a Anvers. 
 
 Le Pere eternel. 
 
 179 
 
 Van Thiei.en 
 
 Uiie guirlande de fleurs. 
 
 180 
 
 N. Kyckens, nomme le Vieux, ne et 
 mort a Anvers. 
 
 Ste CatliL'rine disputant avec les philosophes. 
 
 181 
 
 - 
 
 Portrait d'homme. 
 
 182 
 
 AoRiEN DE Backer, ne et mort a 
 
 La Jus-tice legagne ])ar la ))aix les forces qu'elle 
 
 
 Amsterdam. 
 
 avait perdues pendant les desordres de la 
 guerre et lanarchie des troubles. Allegoric. 
 
 18.3 
 
 Thomas Willebrordts Bosschaert, 
 
 Le Sauveur en croix, la Madelaine et Saint 
 
 
 ne a Bergen op-Zoom en 1613, 
 
 Fran9ois. 
 
 
 mort a Anvers en 1656, eleve de 
 
 
 
 Gerard Severs. 
 
 
 184 
 
 Jean Van Kessel, ne a Anvers en 
 16'26, mort dans la meme ville. 
 
 Concert d'oiscaux. 
 
 185 
 
 Jean Feypt, ne et mort a Anvers 
 
 Des Chiens de chasse et du Gibier mort. 
 
 186 
 
 Jean Sibrechts, ne et mort a An- 
 
 Deux religieux de I'ordrc de St. Francois, dans 
 
 
 vers : le tableau porte la date de 
 
 un paysage agreste, dans Iccpiel on voit rassem- 
 
 
 1666. 
 
 blce une ([uantite d'aniniaux de toute espece. 
 
 187 
 
 Antoine Gobau, ne et mort a An- 
 
 Reunion d'artistcs a Rome. Le tableau porte 
 
 
 vers. 
 
 I'annee 166S. 
 
 188 
 
 . 
 
 Vue de la Place Navona a Rome. 
 
 189 
 
 GoDEFROi Kneller, ue a Lubeck, 
 
 Le ])ortrait du chanoine Cockx, chantre de la 
 
 
 peintre de Charles 11. et de 
 
 Catliedrale d' Anvers. 
 
 
 Jacques II. Uois d'Aiigleterre. 
 
 
 190 
 
 Marc Antoine Garibai.do 
 
 La Fuite en Egypte. 
 
 191 
 
 Van MlNDERHOUT 
 
 Vue d'un jiort du Levant, au suleil coucliant. 
 
 192 
 
 Inconnu 
 
 Un Ilyver. 
 
 193 
 
 - 
 
 Deux jeunes Filles : une d'elles a))prete un Bou- 
 quet, I'autre carresse une Brehis. 
 
 194 
 
 - 
 
 Un Berger joue de la tlute devant sa l>ergere, 
 IHMulant (jue celli-ci pare inie l)rebis. 
 
 195 
 
 Jean Peeters 
 
 Jj'Escaut pris devaiit Anvers. On voit nombre 
 de i)ersonnes sur la glace ; des tentes et meme 
 des voitures chargees. 
 
 196 
 
 Van Es 
 
 Nature morte. Une cruche a vin, des citrons 
 cou])es, et un eoufeau. 
 
 197 
 
 Balth. Vanden Bossche, nc et mort a 
 
 Reunion du serniiiit de r.nhalete. 
 
 
 Anvers : le tableau est peint en 1 71 1 . : 
 
 Mr. le Bourguemestre est introdnil dans I'assem- 
 
APPENDIX. 193 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 Description. 
 
 
 
 blee et complimente a I'entree par les Doyens. 
 
 
 
 Les figures de ce tableau presentent autant de 
 
 
 
 portraits. 
 
 198 
 
 GOVAERTS 
 
 Assemblee des confreres du meme serment de 
 
 I'arbalete. 
 Ce tableau est enrichi de I'illustration d'un pro- 
 
 tecteur, represente allegoriquement. 
 
 199 
 
 Balth. BEsscHEr, ne a Londres 
 d'un pere Anversois en 1709, mort 
 a Anvers en 1 776 : un des direc- 
 teurs de cette academic en 1756. 
 
 Joseph vendu par ses freres. 
 
 200 
 
 - 
 
 Joseph Vice-roi d'Egypte : devant lui sont ses 
 freres qui viennent s'approvisioner en grain. 
 
 201 
 
 . 
 
 Portrait du peintre, il a la palette en main. 
 
 202 
 
 Verhagen, ne et raort a Louvain 
 
 Agar et son fils renvoyes par Abraham. 
 
 203 
 
 Tassaert, surnomme I'Anglais 
 
 Reimion de philosophes. 
 
 204 
 
 P. Snyers, nomme le Saint, ne a 
 Anvers, il y mourut en 1752. 
 
 Un paysage orne de fleurs, d'insectes, etc. 
 
 205 
 
 Martin J. Geeraerts, ne a Anvers 
 en 1706, mort dans la meme ville 
 en 1 791 : un des directeurs de cette 
 academie. 
 
 Bas-relief, representant les Beaux- Arts. 
 
 206 
 
 Andre Lens, ne a Anvers en 1739, 
 mort a Bruxelles en 1822, un des di- 
 recteurs de cette academie en 1763. 
 
 L'Annonciation. 
 
 207 
 
 " 
 
 Le portrait du graveur Martinasie : il travaille a 
 la planclje de I'Enlevement des Sabines, d'apres 
 le tableau peint par Rubens. 
 
 208 
 
 
 Hercule prend sous sa protection les Arts contre 
 I'envie et I'ignorance, qu'il terrasse a coups de 
 sa formidable massue. 
 
 209 
 
 Kerckx 
 
 L'Agneau de Dieu dans une gloire, au milieu 
 des bienheureux. Au haut du tableau on voit 
 le Pere eternel entoure d'anges. 
 
 210 
 
 Kerckx 
 
 Les Israelites, prets a sortlr d'Egypte, mangent, 
 d'apres le prescrit de Moise, I'agneau-pascal. 
 On voit I'ange exterminateur qui frappe les 
 premiers-nes des Egyptiens. 
 
 211 
 
 Inconnu 
 
 Blazons de nos anciennes societes de Rhetorique. 
 
 
 COPIES. 
 
 212 
 
 Par p. Thys, Dominlcain a Anvers 
 
 Saint Ambroise refusant a I'Empereur Tlieodose 
 le Grand I'entree du temple de Milan, pour 
 n'avoir pas expie le crime du massacre de Sa- 
 lonique. L'original se trouve a la Galerie 
 Imperiale de Vienne. 
 
 213 
 
 Inconnu d'apres Rubens 
 
 La grande chasse au lion. 
 
 c c 
 
194 
 
 APPENDIX . 
 
 No. 
 
 214 
 
 215 
 216 
 
 217 
 218 
 219 
 220 
 221 
 222 
 223 
 224 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 Idem d'apres Van Dyck 
 Copies d'apres Van Dyck 
 
 Inconnu d'apres Le Titien 
 Idem d'apres Paul Veronese 
 Idem d'apres Dj; Wit 
 Idem d'apres un Inconnu 
 
 Description. 
 
 Silene ivre : il est soutenu par des satyres et une 
 
 baccliante. 
 Saint Pierre. 
 Saint Paul. 
 Tete de JNIadelaine. 
 
 Portrait de I'lnfante Isabelle Claire Eugenie. 
 Portrait de I'eveque d'Anvers Malderus. 
 Portrait d'un abbe. 
 Jesus rejettc pour Harrabas. 
 Le centurion aux jiieiis du Sauveur. 
 Un jeune homme dessinant. 
 Portrait du Pape Pie VI. 
 
 M A E B R E S. 
 
 225 Arthur Quellin 
 
 226 Kerrickx, ne et mort a Anvers : un 
 des Directeurs de eette Academic 
 en 1692. 
 
 227 : Louis Willemsens 
 
 228 ' P. Van Baurscheit, 1700 
 229 
 
 Charles Gkerts, Professeur a 1' Aca- 
 demic de Louvain, Artiste vivant. 
 GuiLL. Geefs, Artiste vivant 
 Inconnu 
 
 230 
 231 
 et 232 
 233 David Tenikrs, le Jeune 
 
 234 
 
 235 
 
 236 
 
 237 
 
 238 
 239 
 240 
 
 Jacques Jorhaens 
 
 Ambr. Francken, (lit le Vieux, 
 Elevc de Martin De Vos, doyen 
 de la corporation de St. Luc, en 
 1581—1582, mort en 1619. 
 
 Jean B. Francken, Fils et ^leve de 
 
 Scbastiea Francken, nc a Anvers 
 
 vers I'an 151)6. 
 Gastard Van Oi-stal 
 Jean Van Oh ley 
 Pierre Van Lint, n(5 a Anvers en 
 
 1609, mort dans la meme ville en 
 
 1668. 
 
 Le Buste de Louis Benavides, Marquis de Cara- 
 
 cene, etc. 
 Buste de son Altesse Maximilien Emanuel de 
 
 Baviere, gouverneur des Pays-Bas Espagnols. 
 
 Buste de Jean Dominique de Zuniga et Fonseca, 
 comte de INIonterey, gouverneur des Pays-Bas 
 Espagnols. 
 
 Buste d'un jeune personnage de liaut rang; il est 
 decore de I'ordre du Saint Es])rit. 
 
 Quinten Matsys ; statue de grandeur naturelle. 
 
 Buste du Roi. 
 
 Deux Bustes en marbro blanc et noir. 
 
 Vue de Flandre. Sur le devant se troiivent des 
 
 fumeurs ; le fond est un paysage. 
 Le commerce et la prosperitc publique font (leu- 
 
 rir Ics beaux-arts. 
 Les sept auvres de Misericorde. 
 
 Le martyre de Ste. Catbcrine. Escjuisse tir- 
 
 min<?e. 
 Des possedes et des malades prennent leur rc- 
 
 cours au toinbeau d'un saint. Esijuisse. 
 
 Portrait de forme ovale. 
 La Sainte Vicrge et I'enfant .Tesus. 
 Saint Cbristopiie portant I'Enfant divin sur ses 
 epaules. Figures a mi-corps. 
 
APPENDIX. 195 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 Description. 
 
 241 
 
 HoREMANS, le Vieux, il vivait vers 
 
 L'Abbe de St. Michel et M. le Bourguemestre 
 
 
 la fin du 17* siecle. 
 
 rendent visite au corps du serment de I'es- 
 crime. 
 
 242 
 
 Jean Peeters 
 
 Mer calme ; on y voit un vaisseau a I'ancre, un 
 yacht faisant voile et un bateau pecheur. 
 
 243 
 
 BiLTIUS 
 
 Un poulailler. 
 
 244 
 
 GuiLLAUME Jacq. Herreyns, ne a 
 
 Portrait de J. Ghesquiere, de I'Abbaye de Ton- 
 
 
 Anvers le 10 Jiiin, 1743, mort 
 
 gerlo. 
 
 
 dans la meme villa le 10 Aout, 
 
 
 
 1827; Directeuy de cette Aca- 
 
 
 
 demic. 
 
 
 245 
 
 - 
 
 Portrait de Jacq. Buens, de la meme abbaye. 
 
 246 
 
 Ferdinand de Braekeleer, Artiste 
 
 Les Anversois se defendent contre les Espagnols 
 
 
 vivant. 
 
 qui veulent piller leur ville, le 4 Novembre, 
 1576. 
 Ce tableau, acquis par la regence, a ete par elle 
 place au IMusee. 
 
 247 
 
 Mathieu Tgn. Van Bree, ne a An- 
 
 Mort de Pierre Paul Rubens, le 30 Mai, 1640. 
 
 
 vers le 22 Fevrier, 1773, mort 
 
 11 etait age de 62 ans et 11 mois. 
 
 
 dans la meme ville le 15 Decein- 
 
 Le Roi Guillaume a fait don de ce tableau au 
 
 
 bre, 1839, premier Professeur a 
 
 Musee. 
 
 
 I'Academie depuis 1803 jusqu'en 
 
 
 
 8127 ; Direeteur depuis cette epo- 
 
 
 
 que jusqu'a son deces. 
 
 
 248 
 
 Inconnu 
 
 Un portrait de religieux. 
 
 249 
 
 - 
 
 Un idem. 
 
 250 
 
 Pennemaekers, le Recollet, le Vieux 
 
 L' Ascension de Notre Seigneur. 
 
 251 
 
 Simon de Vos, mort en 1676 
 
 Ex-voto d'une familJe en priere devant I'image 
 de Saiute Vierge. 
 
 252 
 
 Inconnu 
 
 Buste d'Ortelius en medallion : on voit au bas 
 le globe qui orne les ceuvres de ce celebre geo- 
 graphe. 11 provient de son epitaphe a I'Ab- 
 baye de St. Michel. 
 
 253 
 
 - 
 
 Monument funeraire remain de la Famille des 
 Fabius. Trouve aux environs d'Anvers. 
 
 254 
 
 - 
 
 Statue d'Isis, don de Mr. J. B. De Witte, trouve 
 
 
 
 au Reuzen-huys a Anvers. 
 
197 
 
 II. 
 
 CATALOGUE OF PAINTINGS, MUSEE ROYAL, 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 ECOLES FLAMANDE, HOLLANDAISE, ET ALLEMANDE. 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 Description. 
 
 1 
 
 Artois (Jacques van), ne a Brux- 
 elles en 1613, mort en 1665. 
 
 Paysage, scene d'hiver. 
 
 2 
 
 - 
 
 Paysage forestier, pris au declin du jour. 
 
 3 
 
 - 
 
 Paysage boise. 
 
 4 
 
 Abtois(van), De Crater et Segers. 
 
 Conversion de Saint Hubert. 
 
 5 
 
 AssELiN, ne a Anvers en 1610, mort 
 a Amsterdam en 1660; eleve 
 d'Isaac Van Ostade. 
 
 Paysage d'ltalie. 
 
 6 
 
 Bachuyzen (Louis), ne a Embde en 
 1631, mort a Amsterdam en 1709; 
 eleve d'Everdingen. 
 
 Vue marine. 
 
 7 
 
 Backereel (Gilles), ne a Anvers en 
 1572, mort en ... . 
 
 Adoration des bergers. 
 
 8 
 
 - 
 
 Vision de Saint Felix. 
 
 9 
 
 - 
 
 Saint Antoine de Padoue portant I'enfant Jesus 
 et le Saint Sacrement. 
 
 10 
 
 Beggyn (Abraham), Hollandais, ne 
 en 1650, mort a Berlin en 1708. 
 
 Marine des environs de Naples. 
 
 11 
 
 Berghem (Nicolas Klaes, dit), ne 
 a Harlem en 1624, mort dans la 
 meme ville en 1683. 
 
 Paysage ; site d'ltalie. 
 
 12 
 
 BoL (Ferdinand), n6 a Dordrecht 
 
 Un vieillard qui etudie, le coude appuye snr une 
 
 
 en 1611, mort a Amsterdam en 
 
 table ou I'on remarque un grand livre, une 
 
 
 1681 ; eleve de Rembrandt. 
 
 sphere et une tete de mort. 
 
 13 
 
 BOSSCHAERT (WiLLEBRORD), ne a 
 
 Des anges annoncent a Abraham la naissance 
 
 
 Berg-op-Zoom en 1613, mort a 
 
 d'Isaac, 
 
 
 Anvers en 1656 ; eleve de Gerard 
 
 
 
 Segers. 
 
 
 14 
 
 Brauwer(Adrien), ne a Audenarde 
 en 1608, mort a Anvers en 1640; 
 eleve de Fran9ois Hals. 
 
 Eispute grotesque de joueurs de cartes. 
 
198 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 Description. 
 
 15 
 
 Breughel (Abraham), ne a Anvers 
 en 1672, mort en 1720. 
 
 Bouquet de flcurs. 
 
 16 
 
 Breughel (Jean, dit de Velour, et 
 
 L'Abondance et I'Amour repandant leurs dons 
 
 
 Van Baelen), ne a Bruxelles en 
 
 sur la terre. 
 
 
 1589, mort a Anvers en 1642. Ne 
 
 
 
 a Anvers en 1562, mort en 1638, 
 
 
 17 
 
 BREYDEL(le Chevalier Charles), ni 
 a Anvers en 1677, mort a Gand en 
 1744. 
 
 Choc de cavalerie. 
 
 18 
 
 - 
 
 Idem. 
 
 19 
 
 Champagne (J. B. van), ne a Brux- 
 elles en 1643, mort en 1688; eleve 
 de Philippe Van Champagne. 
 
 Assoinption de la Vierge. 
 
 1 
 
 20 
 
 Champagne (Philippe van), ne a 
 Bruxelles en 1602, mort a Paris 
 en 1674; eleve de Fouquieres. 
 
 Portrait de Saint Charles Borrom^e. 
 
 21 
 
 . 
 
 Sainte Genevieve de Brabant. 
 
 22 
 
 - 
 
 Saint Joseph. 
 
 23 
 
 - 
 
 Saint Etienne. 
 
 24 
 
 - 
 
 Saint Ambroise. 
 
 25 
 
 - 
 
 Presentation au temple. 
 
 26 
 
 . 
 
 Saint Benoit dans la grotte. 
 
 27 
 
 - 
 
 Saint Benoit visite par un prefre. 
 
 28 
 
 - 
 
 Le pain empoisonne. 
 
 29 
 
 - 
 
 Saint Benoit fait jaillir une fontalne par a force 
 de sa priere. 
 
 30 
 
 - 
 
 Saint Maur retirant Placide de I'eau. 
 
 31 
 
 - 
 
 La hache perdue (jui se rattache a son manche. 
 
 32 
 
 - 
 
 Le demon chasse d'unc pierre. 
 
 33 
 
 .. 
 
 L'incendie imaginaire. 
 
 34 
 
 . 
 
 L'enfant ressuscite. 
 
 35 
 
 . 
 
 Sainte Scolastique visitee par Sainte Benoit. 
 
 36 
 
 Cochels (Joseph) 
 
 Retour de la chasse an cerf. 
 
 37 
 
 CoENE (C). ne a Vilvorde en 1780, 
 
 Soldat de la bataille de Waterloo, rentrant dans 
 
 
 mort a Bruxelles en 1841. 
 
 la maison jjaternelle. 
 
 38 
 
 CoppENs, ne a Bruxelles au 17*^ 
 siecle. 
 
 Portrait de I'auteur. 
 
 39 
 
 CossiERs (Jean), ne a Anvers en 
 1603, mort en 1652; eleve de 
 Corneille Devos. 
 
 Le deluge universe!. 
 
 40 
 
 _ 
 
 La sainte fainille. 
 
 41 
 
 CoxiE (Michel van), n6 a. Malines 
 en 1499, mort en 1592; 61eve de 
 Van Orley. 
 
 Le couronnemcnt d'l'pines. 
 
 42 
 
 
 La cene. Tableau avec volets. L'un des volels 
 represente le Christ lavant les pieds des apotres, 
 et I'autre le Christ au Jardin des Olives. 
 
 43 
 
 Craesheke( Joseph van), ne a Brux- 
 elles en 1608, mort en 1688 ; eleve 
 d'Adrien Brauwer. 
 
 Tabagie flamandc. 
 
 44 
 
 Dankeks van By (Pierre), ne a 
 
 Portrait du matlu'maticicn Dow, oncle de Ge- 
 
 
 Amsterdam en 1605, mort a Stoek- 
 
 rard Dow. 
 
 
 holin en 1659. 
 
 
APPENDIX. 199 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 Description. 
 
 45 
 
 Bankers van Rt 
 
 Portrait de la femme de Gerard Dow. 
 
 46 
 
 De Baets (Ange), ne a Evergem, 
 pres de Gand, en 1793. 
 
 Interieur de I'eglise Saint Bavon, a Gand. 
 
 47 
 
 De Bonsletter (A.). 
 
 Paysage ; vue des environs de Rome. 
 
 48 
 
 De Brackeleer (pERDiNANn), ne a 
 Anvers en 1792. 
 
 Vue interieure de la ville d'Anvers. 
 
 49 
 
 De Caisne (Henri), ne a Bruxelles 
 en 1799. 
 
 Agar dans le desert. 
 
 50 
 
 - 
 
 Sapho. 
 
 51 
 
 De Cauwer, ne a Beveren en ... . 
 
 Plusieurs blesses de la bataille de Waterloo dans 
 I'int^rieur d'une ferme. 
 
 52 
 
 De Klerck (Henri), nea Anvers en 
 1570, mort en 1629; eleve de 
 Martin Devos. 
 
 Le Seigneur appelant a lui les petits enfans. 
 
 53 
 
 . 
 
 Une sainte famille. 
 
 54 
 
 De Coninck (Jacques), ne a Harlem 
 en 1 650, mort en 1 709 ; ^leve 
 d'Adrien Vandevelde. 
 
 Vue de Hollande; paysage. 
 
 55 
 
 De Crayer (Gaspard), ne a Anvers 
 en 1582, mort en 1669; eleve de 
 Raphael Coxie. 
 
 Peche miraculeusc de St. Pierre. 
 
 56 
 
 - 
 
 Assomption de Sainte Catherine. 
 
 51 
 
 . 
 
 Apparition de la Vierge a Saint Bernard. 
 
 58 
 
 - 
 
 Martyre de Saint Blaise 
 
 59 
 
 . 
 
 Conversion de Saint Julien. 
 
 60 
 
 - 
 
 Le Chevalier Donglebert et sa femme en adora- 
 tion devant le Christ mort. 
 
 61 
 
 . 
 
 Saint Paul et Saint Antoine. 
 
 62 
 
 . 
 
 Saint Paul ermite, avant sa conversion. 
 
 63 
 
 - 
 
 Saint Paul apres son martyre. 
 
 64 
 
 - 
 
 Saint Antoine et Saint Paul, ermites. 
 
 65 
 
 - 
 
 Martyre de Sainte Apolline. 
 
 66 
 
 - 
 
 La sainte famille. 
 
 61 
 
 - 
 
 Portrait d'un moine de I'ordre des Augustins. | 
 (Le fond est un paysage.) 
 
 68 
 
 De Jonghe (J. B.), ne a Courtrai 
 en 1785. 
 
 Paysage ; vue prise aux environs de Tournai. 
 
 69 
 
 De Landtsheere (Jean), pere, ne 
 a Baesrode en 1750, mort a Brux- 
 elles en 1828. 
 
 Venus coupant les ailes a 1' Amour. 
 
 70 
 
 De Landtsheere (J. B. ), fils, ne 
 a Bruxelles en 1797. 
 
 Tancrede blesse et soigne par Herminie. 
 
 71 
 
 Delvaux (Ed.), ne a Bruxelles en 
 1806. 
 
 Paysage montagneux. Coup de vent. 
 
 72 
 
 Delvaux (Ferdinand), n^ a Brux- 
 elles en 1782, mort a Bologne en 
 1815. 
 
 Interieur du cloitre des Chartreux a Rome. 
 
 73 
 
 - 
 
 Interieur d'un convent de femmes a Rome. 
 
 74 
 
 Denis (Simon Joseph Alexandre 
 
 Combat de deux taureaux. Effet de soleil ecu- 
 
 
 Clement), ne a Anvers en 1755, 
 
 chant. 
 
 
 mort a Naples en 1813. 
 
 
 75 
 
 De Noter (P. F. ), ne a Walhem en 
 1779, mort en 1842. 
 
 Vue prise a Bruges. 
 
200 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 76 
 
 77 
 
 79 
 
 80 
 81 
 
 82 
 
 83 
 
 84 
 85 
 
 86 
 
 87 
 
 88 
 
 89 
 
 89* 
 90 
 
 91 
 92 
 
 93 
 94 
 
 95 
 
 96 
 
 97 
 98 
 
 De Noter 
 
 De Roi (J. B.), n6 a Bruxelles en 
 1759, mort en 1839. 
 
 Devadder (Louis), ne a Bruxelles 
 
 en 1560, moit en 16U'.i. 
 Devigne (Felix), n6 a Gand en 
 
 1806. 
 Devos (Maktin), ne a Anvers en 
 
 1524, mort en 1604; eleve de 
 
 Pierre Devos, son pere, et de Franck 
 
 Floris. 
 Devries (Ferdinand), ne a Leeu- 
 
 waerden en 1527, mort en 1588. 
 De Wit (Emmanuel), n^ a Alcmaer, 
 
 en 1607, mort en 1692; eleve 
 
 d'Evrard Van Alst. 
 DiETRicv (GuiLLAUME Ernest), ne 
 
 a Weimar en 1712, mort a Dresde 
 
 en 1774. 
 Dow (Gerard), ne a Leyde en 1 13, 
 
 mort en 1680; eleve de Rem- 
 brandt. 
 DucQ (Joseph Francois), ne a Le- 
 
 deghem en 1762, mort a Bruges 
 
 en 1829. 
 Du CoRRON (J.), ne a Ath en 1770. 
 
 Faber (F.), ne a Bruxelles en 1782, 
 
 mort en 1844. 
 Fabrique ( Nicolas la), ne a Namur 
 
 vers la fin du 17*= siecle, mort en 
 
 1736. 
 Floris (Franck), de Vriendt 
 
 (FRAN90IS, dit), ne a Anvers en 
 
 1520, mort en 1570; eleve de 
 
 Lambert Lombard. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Franck (Jean Baptiste), ne a An- 
 vers en 1600, mort en 1653 ; eleve 
 de son pere, Sebastien Franck. 
 
 Francois (P. J. C. ) pere, ne a 
 Namur en 1759. 
 
 Geernaerts 
 
 Hivcr ; vue prise du Pont Neuf a Gand. 
 L'^glise de Saint Nicolas, a Gand, vue du March^- 
 
 aux- Grains. 
 Un nombreux convoi de bestiaux destines a 
 
 I'armee. 
 Paysage avcc bestiaux. Effet de brouillard. 
 Paysage boise. 
 
 Les amours d'Abrocome ct de la belle Anthia. 
 
 Portrait. 
 
 Chasse au cerf dans un chemin creux et boise. 
 
 Interieur de I'eglise de Delft. 
 
 Portrait de ce Peintre. 
 
 Gerard Dow dessinant a la faible lueur dune 
 lampe d'apres un Amour de Duquesnoy. 
 
 Venus sortant des eaux. 
 
 Vue prise aux environs d'Irchonwelz, pres de 
 
 Chievres, province de Ilainaut. 
 Paysage ; clair de lune. 
 Repos d'un ouvrier. 
 
 Un jeune homme examine avec attention une 
 piece d'or qu'il tient dans le crcux de sa main. 
 
 Le Jugement dernier. 
 
 Altercation entre deux jeunes epoux. 
 
 L'enfant Jesus, couche dans son berceau, tend les 
 bras a la Sainte Vierge a genoux <\m va I'em- 
 brasser. Saint Joseph contemple cette scene 
 d'amour avec respect. 
 
 Decollation de Saint Jean. 
 
 Marius assis sur ks mines ile Carthage. 
 
 Le Seigneur et ses (liscii)les a I'maiis ; grisaille. 
 Le Seigneur chez Simon le Piiarisien ; grisaille. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 201 
 
 No. 
 
 99 
 
 100 
 101 
 102 
 103 
 104 
 
 105 
 
 106 
 
 107 
 
 108 
 
 109 
 110 
 
 111 
 
 112 
 113 
 
 114 
 
 115 
 
 116 
 117 
 118 
 
 119 
 
 120 
 121 
 122 
 
 123 
 
 124 
 
 125 
 
 Artist's Kair.e. 
 
 Geeunaf.uts 
 
 Goi.zius (Hubert), ne a Veiiloo en 
 1520, mort a Bruges en 1583. 
 
 IIkksi (David be), ne ii Utrecht en 
 1570, mort en 1632. 
 
 Hellejians (P. J.), lie a Briixelles 
 en 1787. 
 
 Hemskerke( Egbert, clit le Paysan), 
 ne a Hark-m en 1610, mort en 
 1680. 
 
 Herkegouts, ne ii Malines en 1666, 
 mort a Anvers en 1724. 
 
 Holbein (Jean), ne a Bale en 1498, 
 mort a Londres en 1554; eleve de 
 son pere, Jean Holbein. 
 
 HuvsMAN (CoRNEiLLE, dit de Ma- 
 lines), ne a Anvers en 1648, mort 
 en 1727 ; eleve de Jacques Artois. 
 
 Janssens (Abrahaji), ne a Anvers 
 en 1569, mort en 1631. 
 
 Janssens (ViCTOR Honoue), He a 
 Bruxelles en 1664, mort en 1739. 
 
 Description. 
 
 JoLLV ( A. E. ), ne a Bruxelles. 
 JoRDAENS (Jacques), ne a Anvers en 
 
 ] .•)94, mort en 1 678 ; eleve d' Adam 
 
 Van Oort et de llubens. 
 
 Klomp (Albert), Hollandais, vivait 
 en 1636. 
 
 Koeberger (Wenceslas), ne a An- 
 vers en 1560, mort en 1630; eleve 
 de Martin Devos 
 
 Kuvp (Benjajiin), nu a Dordrecht 
 en 1603, mort vers la fin du 17*-' 
 siecle. 
 
 Les flls d' Aaron punis par le feu du ciel ; gri- 
 saille. 
 La femme adultere ; grisaille. 
 Abraham et Melcliisedech ; grisaille 
 Le sacrifice d'Abrabam; grisaille. 
 Le sacrifice d'Elie ; grisaille. 
 Portrait de fennne. 
 
 Bouquet de fleurs. 
 
 A'ue prise sur la lisiere du bois de Solgnes, chaus- 
 
 see de Namur. 
 Paysage; vue d'un moulln a eau ; figures et 
 
 bjtail. 
 LUerieur d'un cabaret flamand. 
 
 Saint Jeiome dans le desert. 
 Portrait de Thomas Morus. 
 
 Paysage. 
 
 La Foi et I'Esperance soutieiment la Vieillesse 
 contre les fatigues du temps. 
 
 Des anges presentent le cordon de I'ordre des 
 Chartreux a Saint Bruno, pendant une appari- 
 tion de la Vierge. 
 
 Saint Charles Borromee priant pour les pesti- 
 feres. 
 
 Didon, accompagnee de sa soeur, faisant batir 
 Carthage. 
 
 Sacrifice d'Enee arrivant a Carthage. 
 
 Zampiero et Vanina. 
 
 Saint ]Martin guerissant un possede. 
 
 Tableau allegorique des dons et des occupations 
 
 de I'Automne. 
 Letriomph^du Prince Frederic Henri de Nassau. 
 Tete d'apotre priant Dieu. (Esquisse.) 
 Scene rurale, entree de ferme. 
 
 Apparition des anges aux bergers devant leurs 
 
 tentes, pour annoncer la naissance du Messie. 
 Le Christ porte au tombeau. 
 
 L' Adoration des mages. 
 
 DD 
 
202 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 Description. 
 
 126 
 
 Klyp (Jacob Gerritz), i.e a Dor- 
 dreclit en 1578, inert en 1642; 
 eleve d' Abraham Bloeinaert 
 
 Paysage. 
 
 
 127 
 
 Lairesse (Gerard ue), ni- a Liiirc 
 en 1640, mort a Amsterdam en 
 1711; eleve de son pere, Kenier 
 de Lairesse. 
 
 La mort de Pyrrhus. 
 
 
 128 
 
 Leks( Andre), ne a .Xnvers en 1739, 
 mort a Bruxelles en 1822; eleve 
 de Pierre Eyckens le Vieiix et de 
 Balthazar Besschey. 
 
 Dalila coupant les chcveux a Samson. 
 
 
 129 
 
 Lens (Jacques), ne k Anvers vers 
 1 746, mort en 
 
 Portrait de I'empereur Leopold 
 
 
 130 
 
 LiNGELBACH (Jean), ne a Frankfort- 
 sur-le-Mein en 1625, mort a Am- 
 sterdam en 1687. 
 
 Vue de la Place du Peuple a Rome. 
 
 
 131 
 
 LooTEN (Jean), ne a Amsterdam en 
 . . . ., mort en 1681. 
 
 Paysage boise. 
 
 
 132 
 
 Llcas Franchovs (le Vieux), dit 
 FRAN901S, ne a Malines en 1574, 
 mort en 1 643. 
 
 Portrait de Phideqie, sculpteur flamand 
 
 
 133 
 
 I\L\THiEU (Louis), ne a Champion 
 
 3Lirie de Bourgogne tombant de cheval a 
 
 la 
 
 
 (Luxembourg) en 1805. 
 
 chasse. 
 
 
 134 
 
 Meert (Pieiirk), ne a Bruxelles en 
 
 Portrait des anciens magistrats de Bruxelles 
 
 en 
 
 
 1618, mort en 1669. 
 
 1600. 
 
 
 135 
 
 Mile (Francois), ne a Anvers en 
 
 Repos de la Sainte Famille pendant la fuite 
 
 en 
 
 
 1643, mort a Paris en 1680; eleve 
 
 Egypte. 
 
 
 
 de Laurent Franckeii. 
 
 
 
 13rt 
 
 ^Iolenaer, i\6 a Anvers en 1540, 
 mort en 1589. 
 
 Tabagie flamande. 
 
 
 137 
 
 Idem. 
 
 
 
 133 
 
 JMo.MMERs (Henri), ne a Harlem en 
 1623, mort en 1697. 
 
 Un marche aux lierbes. 
 
 
 139 
 
 MoREELSE (Paul), ne a Utrecht en 
 
 Portrait d'un honnne tenant unc pomme dans 
 
 la 
 
 
 1571, mort en 1638; eleve de 
 
 main droite. 
 
 
 
 .Alichel :Mirevelt. 
 
 
 
 140 
 
 3I0UCIIERON (Lsaac Van), ne a Am- 
 sterdam en 1670, mort en 1744. 
 
 Paysage Areadien. 
 
 
 HI 
 
 - 
 
 Paysage garni de haute futaic ct entrecoupe 
 montagnes. 
 
 de 
 
 142 
 
 Nason (Pierre), Ilollandais, vivait 
 
 Portrait du Prince d'Orange, gouverneur 
 
 du 
 
 
 en 1639. 
 
 Bresil. 
 
 
 143 
 
 Navez (F. J.), ne X Charleroi en 
 1787. 
 
 Portrait d'Engelspach-Larivierc. 
 
 
 144 
 
 - 
 
 Agar dans le deseri. 
 
 
 113 
 
 Neefs (Pierre), ne a Anvers en 
 1570, mort en 1639. 
 
 Iiiterieur de la Cathedrale d'Anvers. 
 
 
 146 
 
 NoEi,, ne a Waulsort-siir-Meuse en 
 1789, mort en 1822. 
 
 Station de cavalerie. 
 
 
 M7 
 
 Odevaere (JosEi'ii Denis), ne a 
 Bruf^es en 1778, mort en 1830; 
 d-leve de Suvee et de David. 
 
 Victoirc navale de C'anaris sur les Ottomans. 
 
 
 148 
 
 " 
 
 Les .Atlic'iiiens s'embarqiiant pour Salaniines. 
 
 
APPENDIX. 203 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 Description. 
 
 149 
 
 Ommegang (B. Paul), ne a Anvers 
 en 1755, mort en 1826. 
 
 Paysage dcs Ardennes. 
 
 150 
 
 Paelinck (Madame), nee Horg- 
 
 NIKS. 
 
 Sujet tire de Lamartine, 
 
 151 
 
 Palamede Stevens (Antoine), ne 
 a Delft en 1607, mort en 1638. 
 
 Portrait d'homme 
 
 152 
 
 PouRBUS, n6 a Bruges en 1540, mort 
 en 1580; eleve de Franck Flore. 
 
 Portrait d'homme. 
 
 153 
 
 QuiLLiN (Ekasme), le vieux, ne a 
 Anvers en 1607, mort en 1678; 
 tleve de Kubens. 
 
 Charles Borromee, archeveque de jNIilan. 
 
 154 
 
 " 
 
 Un statue en grisaille, representant le Sanveur 
 sur un fond d'architecture, eiitoure de Heurs 
 peintes par Segcrs pere. 
 
 155 
 
 Rembkandt (Paul), dit Van Uvn, 
 ne pres de Leyde en 1606, mort a 
 Amsterdam en 1674 ; eleve de 
 Zwanenburg. 
 
 Portrait d'liomme. 
 
 156 
 
 Revkaeut (David), le Jeune, ne a 
 Anvers en 1615, mort en 1677; 
 eleve de son pere. 
 
 Chimisfe dans son laboratoire. 
 
 157 
 
 liiCQUiEB (L.), ne a Anvers en 1795 
 
 Une famille de brigands. 
 
 158 
 
 RoBBE (Louis), ne a Courtrai en 
 
 Animaux au paturage, vue prise aux environs de 
 
 
 1807. 
 
 Courtrai. 
 
 159 
 
 Roos (Jean Henki), dit Rosa de 
 TivoLi, ne a Otterberg, dans le 
 Palatinat, en 1631, mort en 1685, 
 eleve de Julien Dujardin. 
 
 Pasteur assis. 
 
 100 
 
 Rubens (Pierre Paul), ne a Co- 
 
 Le .Seigneur voulant foudroyer le monde. 
 
 
 logne en 1577, mort a Anvers en 
 
 La Vierge, a ses cotes, decouvre son sein ma- 
 
 
 1640; eleve d'Adam Van Oort et 
 
 ternel, et veut arreter le bras de son fils ; les 
 
 
 d'Otto Venius. 
 
 anges constern^s suivent le Seigneur. Saint 
 F"ran9ois se precipite, avec la piileur de I'effroi, 
 sur un globe qui figure la terre, le couvre de 
 son corps et de ses mains : un enorme serpent, 
 symbole des vices, entoure ce globe, derriere 
 lequel il cherche a se cacher. On apei^oit 
 dans le lointain I'image des crimes qui ont pro- 
 voque la vengeance celeste. 
 
 161 
 
 
 Le iVIartyre de Saint Lievin. 
 
 Sans entrerdans les details d'un affreux et degoii- 
 tant supplice, la pensee se pcrte avec plaisir 
 vers ces esprits celestes qui, armes de la foudre, 
 s'^lancent dii fond de niiage sur une troupe de 
 bourreaux et de feroces soldats. Saisis de ter- 
 reur, ceux-ci se precipitent les uns sur les 
 autres ; les clievaux se cabrent et ajoutent au 
 desordre. Tout est action autour de Saint 
 Lievin, qui parait oublier ses souffrances a 
 ra])parition de deux anges qui descendent vers 
 lui avec la palme et la couronne du mar- 
 tyre. 
 
 162 
 
 " " 
 
 Le Couronnement de la Vierge. 
 
204 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 1G:3 
 
 Rubens 
 
 IG4 
 
 IGi 
 
 Kid 
 
 Description. 
 
 La Vierge agenouilloe sur un croissant, s'elevc 
 au-dessus (les nuagcs; le Pere Ettriiel et son 
 Fils I'attcndent, ut vont poser sur son front nio- 
 destc la couronne immortelle. Un groupe 
 d'anges parait au-dessus du nuage qui soutient 
 la Vierge. 
 
 Station du Christ, montant au Calvaire, secouru 
 par Marie Miidok'ine. 
 
 Jesus Christ marclie vers Ic lieu du su])plice, en- 
 toure de ses bourreaux et precede d'un bruy- 
 ant cortege ; il est tombe de douleur et de 
 fatigue sous le poids d'une enorme croix ; son 
 divin visage, meurtri, ensanglante, regarde le 
 spcctateur ; il excite la pitie, touche I'ame du 
 pt'cheur. Sa mere et les saintes femmes qui 
 suivent sont navrees de douleur. 
 
 Le Christ au Tombeau. 
 
 La mere de Jesus, accompagnee dcs saintes 
 femmes, avait eu la Constance de restcr au Cal- 
 vaire pendant ces terribles instants. Saint 
 Jean est le seul disciple qui soit resle aiqires 
 d'elle ; le corps du Sauveur est couche sur un 
 peu de paille; on a decouvert le linceul; sa 
 mere en arriere le soutient ; le sang a cesse de 
 couler de ses plaies ; ses membres sont di'eolo- 
 res; la douceur des traits de son visage n'a jias 
 ete altert'e par son supplice. Les femmes, 
 Saint Jean, et Saint Francois exprimeiit leur 
 tristesse ; deux anges se trouvent sur le devant : 
 la Madeleine baissee vers la terrc, ticnt les 
 clous ensaiiglanti's qu'elle arrose de ses larmes. 
 
 L'adoratioii des mages. 
 
 Trois mages sont venus de I'Orient pour adorer 
 I'enfant Jesus ; la \'ierge le soutient debout 
 sur le haut d'une creche : I'un des trois mages, 
 richement vetu, lui pn'sente un vase remiili 
 d'or ; les deux autres debout, saisis d'un saint 
 respect, tiennent les mains croisees sm- leur 
 poitrine ; le mage noir, le canir penetre de 
 joie, regarde en souriant le divin enfant ; S;iint 
 Joseph se tient derriere la Vierge ; un negre et 
 un blanc portent cliacun un candelabre ; vers 
 le haut d'nn escalier, un guorrier convert d'une 
 cuirasse ()))])ose son bouelier a la foule cjui, du 
 haut d'un galerie, ehercho a penetrer dans lin- 
 terieur de I'rtablc. Le lieu represente une 
 ])lacc souterraine. 
 
 L'Assomption de la Vierge. 
 
 La Salute \'ierge ([nitie la fern" sur un nuage ipii 
 s'eleve glorieuscment vers le elel. Les esprits 
 celestes, entoures d'une lumlere ('elatante. I'ae- 
 compagnent et le coiuiulsent vers I'eternel se. 
 jour. Les saintes femmes, ses compagnes, ne 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 205 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 1G7 
 If; 8 
 169 
 
 170 
 
 Rubens - 
 
 RtiysnAEL (Jacques), ne a Harlem 
 en 1640, mort a Amsterdam en 
 1681. 
 
 Sallaekt (Antoine), ne a Brux- 
 elles en 1570, mort en 1632. 
 
 171 
 172 
 
 173 
 
 174 
 
 175 
 
 Descrijjtion. 
 
 ScARON (Alexandre), ne a Brux- 
 elles. 
 
 trouvent plus dans sa tombe que quelques fleurs. 
 Les apotres, frappt's d'adniiratlon et interdits, 
 suivent la Vierge des yeiix. 
 
 Portrait demi-corps de rArchidiic Albert. 
 
 Portrait demi-corps de I'liifante Isabelle. 
 
 Paysage, avee une piece d'cau entouree d'une fo- 
 re t. 
 
 Procession des corps de metiers de Briixelles, 
 sur la Grande Place, en 1 620. 
 
 Les differens corps de metiers, avee leurs en- 
 seignes, y marchent en file. On y troiive in- 
 dique le nombre de maitres dont se composait 
 chaqiie metier a cette epoque. La vue repr6- 
 sente une partie de la Grande Place; Ton re- 
 marque des maisons baties en bois. 
 
 Suite de cette procession. 
 
 Solennite du tir a I'arbalete. 
 
 Ce tableau rapjielle le souvenir du jour oii, en 
 1615, r Infante Isabelle, souveraine des Pays- 
 Bas, abattit d'un coup d'arbalcte I'oiseau eleve 
 a la hauteur de la fleche de I'eglise du Sablon. 
 L'Infante, et son 6poux, I'Archiduc Albert, s'y 
 trouvent places sur une estrade, I'arbalete a la 
 main ; le doyen, a la tete du grand serment, 
 leur presente son hommage. Toute la cour as- 
 siste a cette fete ; un peuple immense borde le 
 chemin par lequel les corps de serments avancent 
 precedes de leur musiques. 
 
 Procession de TOmmegang, a Bruxelles. 
 
 Ce tableau fait suite au precedent. L'Infant Isa- 
 belle ayant re^u du raagistrat de Bruxelles, 
 comme reine du grand serment, un don de 
 25,000 florins, employa cette somme a une fon- 
 dation au Sablon, en faveur de douze jeunes 
 filles, a chacune desquelles etait destinee une 
 dot, dont la collation se renouvelait tons les 
 ans. La procession representee dans ce ta- 
 bleau a ete institute en memoire de cet evene- 
 ment ; les douze jeunes pucelles, uniforme- 
 ment vetues en blanc, et tenant un cierge a la 
 main, precedent le cierge de cette eglise, I'ar- 
 chiduc, I'archiduchesse, les siegneurs et les 
 dames de la cour. 
 
 Allegorie de la Passion du Christ. 
 
 Deux angessoutiennent sur une draperie I'enfant 
 Jesus debout, portant sa croix et montrant de 
 la main droite une gloire celeste dont les 
 rayons re])rL'scntent, dans les interstices, les 
 principaux episodes de la vie et de la passion du 
 Seigneur. 
 
 Vase de Fleurs. 
 
206 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 Description. 
 
 176 
 
 SCHAEPKKNS (Thkoijouk), iic a Mac- 
 stricht en 1810. 
 
 La prise de Maestricht en 1579. 
 
 177 
 
 SCHAI.KEN ( GoDKFIlOl), lie il DoF- 
 
 Un jeune iiomme, vetu I'e vert et coifTe d'une 
 
 
 drecht en \C>15, nioit en 1706; 
 
 toque noire, tient un flamljeau et sanuise a 
 
 
 eleve de Sanuiel \'an Iloogstraten 
 
 faire tomber de la cire fondue sur 1111 plateau. 
 
 
 ct de G. l)j\v. 
 
 
 178 
 
 ScuouwAF.iiTs, de 15ruxellc's 
 
 Marche aux poissons. 
 
 179 
 
 _ 
 
 Le bocuf gras. 
 
 180 
 
 ScHUT (Cohkeille), ne a Aiivers en 
 
 Esqnisse du tableau du martyre de Saint 
 
 
 1590, mort en 1676; eleve de Ru- 
 
 Jacques. 
 
 
 I)ens. 
 
 
 181 
 
 SciiuT (Corneille) et Segeiis, Pere 
 
 Portrait de la Sainte Vierge entouree de guir- 
 landes de fleurs supportees par des anges. 
 
 182 
 
 SciiwARTs (Ciiristophe), He a Mu- 
 
 Vuleain montrant a Tassembiee des dieux Mars 
 
 
 nich en 1550, mort en 1594. 
 
 et Venus, qu'il a surpris ensemble. 
 
 183 
 
 Segers (Daniel), I'ere, ne a An- 
 vers en 1590, mort en 1661. 
 
 Bouquet. 
 
 181 
 
 81EBRECHS (Jean), ne a Anvers en 
 1625, mort en 1686. 
 
 Scene matinale de travaux rusticjues. 
 
 185 
 
 SiiEYERS (GiLLEs). He ii Malincs en 
 1635, mort en 1710. 
 
 Saint Norbert consacrant deux diacres. 
 
 186 
 
 - 
 
 La mort de Saint Norbert. 
 
 187 
 
 SNEvnERs ( Francois), ne a Anvers 
 
 Sur line longue table sont etalc's un cygiie, uii 
 
 
 en 1579, mort dans la mfime ville 
 
 chevreuil, un paon, un homard, (pielciiies pieces 
 
 
 en 1657; eleve de Henri Van 
 
 de gibier, des fruits, et des legumes de diffe- 
 
 
 Baelen 
 
 rentes especes. 
 
 18S 
 
 SooLMAKEii (J. F. ), ne vers le IT^ 
 siecle. 
 
 Reconciliation de Jacob et d'Esaii. 
 
 189 
 
 " ~ 
 
 Fontaine entoun'e de troupeaux, au milieu (rim 
 paysage d'ltalie. 
 
 190 
 
 Stomme (M. H. ), nc vers le 16'' 
 
 Sur une table couverte d'une nappe, sont repre- 
 
 
 siecle 
 
 sentes un verre, une cniche renversi'e, un plat 
 sur leqiiel est un poisson grille, un couteau, et 
 (juelqiies aiitres objets. 
 
 191 
 
 .St.)oi> (Thierry), ne a Dordrecht, 
 florissait en 1651. 
 
 Vue d'lin jiaysago d'ltalie. 
 
 192 
 
 . 
 
 Halte de postilion. 
 
 19.} 
 
 Teniicrs (David), le .leiine, ne a 
 Anvers en 1610, mort a Hnixelles 
 en 169 I ; eleve de son pere et d'A- 
 diien Hranwer. 
 
 Le devant d'une maison nistlciiie. 
 
 191 
 
 Thvs (I'lERui:), ne a Anvers en 
 1625, mort en 1682. 
 
 Le martyre de Saint Guiilaume. 
 
 195 
 
 - 
 
 Portrait d'une femine vetue de noir, la main 
 gauche appiiyee sur le dossie d'une chaise. 
 
 196 
 
 Tii.iiORcn (Gh.i.es Van), ne a Rrux- 
 
 Les Princes de Ligne, de Chimay, <le Kiihem- 
 
 
 elles en 1625, mort en 1678. 
 
 l)ri', de la Tour-Taxis, et le Due d'Arenbi'ig, 
 tousacheval, et en grand costume de chevalier 
 de la toisoii d'or, sortent du palais des Dues 
 de Brabant. ( L'ancicime cour bniUe en 
 1731.) 
 
 197 
 
 VAN'.Xsi.oor ( DiOMi.), lie ;i Hriix- 
 
 Uepresentation lopograpliique des ci-devant pare 
 
 
 elles en I57(), moit eii 1620. 
 
 et chateau de .Mai ii'iiioiit. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 207 
 
 No, 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 198 
 
 199 
 200 
 
 201 
 
 202 
 203 
 
 204 
 
 205 
 
 206 
 207 
 
 208 
 209 
 210 
 
 211 
 
 212 
 
 213 
 214 
 215 
 216 
 
 217 
 218 
 219 
 220 
 
 Van Assche (Henri), ni a Brux- 
 elles en 1775, inort en 1841. 
 
 Van Bree (Mathieu), ne a Anvers 
 
 en 1773, niort en 1839. 
 Van Bree (Philippe), ne a Anvers 
 
 en 1786. 
 
 Vandenheuvel (Antoine), ne a 
 Gand, au commencement du 17'' 
 siecle, mort en 1677; eleve de 
 Gaspard de Crayer. 
 
 Vanderavond (Pierre), ne a An- 
 vers vers 1619, mort en ... . 
 
 Vander Helst, ne a Harlem en 
 1613, mort a Amsterdam en 1671. 
 
 Vandermuelen, ne a Bruxelles en 
 
 1634, mort a Paris en 1690; 
 
 eleve de Pierre Snayers. 
 Vanderplas (Pierre), ne a Harlem 
 
 en 1570, mort a Bruxelles en 1626. 
 Vander Poorten (Henri), ne a 
 
 Anvers en 1789. 
 Vandervinne (ViNc. Laur.), dit Le 
 
 Napolitain, ne a Harlem en 1629, 
 
 mort en 1702. 
 Vandiepenbeck (Abraham), ne a 
 
 Bois-le-Duc en 1607, mort en 
 
 1675 ; eleve de Rubens. 
 Van Dyck (Antoine), ne a Anvers 
 
 en 1599, mort a Londres en 1641 ; 
 
 eleve de Henri Van Baelen et de 
 
 Rubens. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Van Dyck (Philippe), ne a Amster- 
 dam en 1 680, mort en 1 752. 
 
 Van Everdingen (Cesar), ne a 
 Alcmaer en 160S, mort en 1679. 
 
 Van Heil (Daniel), ne a Bruxelles 
 en 1604, mort en 1662. 
 
 Cascade formee par la Toccia, dans la vallee du 
 
 meme nom, canton du Tessin (Suisse Ita- 
 
 lienne). 
 Paysage. 
 Portrait en pied de Guillaume Premier, roi des 
 
 Pays Bas. 
 Interieur de Trglise Saint Pierre a Rome, le 
 
 jour de la Fete-Dieu. 
 Sixte-Quint, lorsqu'il etait encore patre. 
 Le martyre de Saintc Amelie. 
 La saiiite, percee d'une lance qui s'est brisee dans 
 
 la plaie, est representee etendue mort a terre ; 
 
 le soldat, qui I'a tuee, montre d'un geste mena- 
 
 ^ant sa jeune victime a une femine tenant une 
 
 petite fille a la main, ct qui recule d'effroi. 
 
 Derrieie, se trouvent deux pretres paiens. Un 
 
 ange descend vers la sainte. 
 Assomption de la Vierge. 
 
 Portrait de I'Auteur. 
 
 Portrait de la femme de Vander Heist. 
 Siege de Tournai par Louis XIV. 
 
 La Sainte Vierge et I'Enfant Jesus, entoures des 
 
 doiiateurs de qui provient ce tableau. 
 Paysage orne de figures et de betail. 
 
 L'ange apparait a Saint Pierre, et le delivre de 
 la prison. 
 
 Saint Fran9ois adorant le saint Sacrement. 
 
 Le Christ en croix. 
 
 Saint Antoine de Padoue tenant I'Enfant Jesus. 
 Saint Francois en extase devant le crucifix. 
 Le martyre de Saint Pierre. 
 Esquisse heurtee de la tete du juif presentant le 
 
 roseau dans le tableau du couronneinent d'e- 
 
 pines de ce maitre. 
 Vieux Silene, ivre, soutenu par un berger et une 
 
 bacchante. 
 Portrait d'une dame, vetue du bleu. 
 
 Jeune femme se coiffant devant une glace. 
 
 Incendie a Anvers. 
 
208 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 Description. 
 
 221 
 
 Van IIeil 
 
 Hiver, scene de patineurs. 
 
 222 
 
 
 Incendie en 1731 de I'ancienne cour dii Pa- 
 lais Royal, qui occnpait autrefois le terrain 
 oil se trouvent maiutenant les deux {grands 
 pavilions de la I'lace- Royale du cote du Pare, 
 
 22.'} 
 
 ~ ~ 
 
 Incendie d'une maison situ,^'e Grand Place, a 
 cote de la rue de la Tete d'Or, oii a ete batie 
 depuis la maison dite des Merciers. 
 
 224 
 
 - 
 
 Vue des batiments do lavieille cour a Bruxelles, 
 dii cote de I'Oranjjerie. 
 
 225 
 
 - 
 
 Vue de Bruxelles clans son aiieienne enceinte, 
 prise sur les hauteurs de la porte de Flandre. 
 
 226 
 
 Van Hekp (N.) 
 
 Saint Nicolas Tolentin. 
 
 227 
 
 Van Hugtenburgh (Jean), ne a 
 Ilarlcm en 1646, niort a Amster- 
 dam en 1733. 
 
 Choc de cavalerie. 
 
 228 
 
 Van Loon (Theodoiik), nc a Brux- 
 elles en 1629, mort dans la meme 
 villa en 1678. 
 
 Adoration des bergers. 
 
 229 
 
 , 
 
 Assomption de la Viergc. 
 
 2:50 
 
 . 
 
 Adoration des bergers. 
 
 231 
 
 Van Nikkele (Isaac), no vers le 
 16'^ siecle. 
 
 Vue inteiieure de la grande eglise de Harlem. 
 
 232 
 
 Van Nieuwlandt (Adiuen), mort 
 
 Le carnaval sous Tun des bastions de la ville 
 
 
 en 1601. 
 
 d' An vers. 
 
 233 
 
 Van Ravenstein (Jean), ne a la 
 
 Portrait de Kinna ^'an Ilasselaer, heroine (|ui 
 
 
 Hayeen 1580, moit eu 1649. 
 
 def'eiulit Harlem contre les Espagnols, en 
 1572. 
 Fruits. 
 
 234 
 
 Van Son (Jean), ne a Anvers en 
 
 
 1661, mort a Londres en 1723; 
 
 
 
 eleve de son pcre. 
 
 
 235 
 
 Van Tuui.den (Tiieodoue), ne a 
 Bois-le-Uuc en 1607, mort en 
 1686; eleve de P. 1'. llubens. 
 
 Orgies pendant une kermesse de village. 
 
 236 
 
 . 
 
 Le Christ a la colonne. 
 
 237 
 
 Venius (Gertrude), fiUe d'Otto Ve- 
 nius. 
 
 Portrait du i)eintre Otto Venius. 
 
 238 
 
 Venius (Otto), ne a T.eyde en 1556, 
 mort a Bruxelles en 1636; eleve 
 d'Isaac Swanenbmg, maitre de 
 Rubens. 
 
 Le portement de la croix. 
 
 239 
 
 _ 
 
 Le Christ an Calvaire. 
 
 240 
 
 _ 
 
 Le Sainte Famille. 
 
 241 
 
 - 
 
 Le Cln-ist deseendu de la croix entre les saintes 
 fennnes et Saint .Jean (copie iPapres Hapliael). 
 
 242 
 
 Vekh)E( kiioven (Eugene), ne a. 
 VVarneton, en 1799. 
 
 L'n froiipean de moiituns battu ])ar une averse. 
 
 243 
 
 Vekhoom (Adrien), ne a Harlem, 
 vivait en 1690. 
 
 Le depart jjour la cliasse. 
 
 244 
 
 Veriiaegen (Rierre-Joseph), n6 a 
 Aerseliot en 17'JH, moit en 1811. 
 
 L'adoration des mages. 
 
 245 
 
 Vkrvi.oet (!•".), de Malines 
 
 Le eloitre de Sainte Marie-la-Neuve, a Naples. 
 
 
 ' (Moines I'ranciscains.) 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 209 
 
 No. 
 
 246 
 247 
 248 
 249 
 
 250 
 
 251 
 252 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 VlEILLEVOYE ( PiERRE-JoSEPH-Ce- 
 
 lestin), ne a Verviers en 1798. 
 
 VooRDECKER (Henri), lie a Brux- 
 elles en 1779. 
 
 Weenincx (Jean-Baptiste), ne a 
 Amsterdam en 1621, mort en 1660. 
 
 WouvERMANs (Pierre), ne a Har- 
 lem en 1626, mort en 1683; eleve 
 de son frere Philippe. 
 
 WvNANDTs (Jean), ne a Harlem en 
 1600, mort en 1662. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Tete d'etude de vieillard. 
 Vue du village et de la chapelle de Waterloo. 
 Portrait d'une dame assise devant un miroir. 
 Manege au pied d'un rempart. 
 
 Paysage. 
 
 Paysage. 
 
 Pay .sage sablonneux. 
 
 ECOLES ITALIENNE ET ESPAGNOLE. 
 
 253 
 
 254 
 
 255 
 256 
 
 257 
 
 258 
 259 
 
 260 
 261 
 
 262 
 
 Albane (Francesco Albani), ne a 
 Bologne en 1578, mort en 1660; 
 eleve des Carrache. (Ecole Bolo- 
 naise.) 
 
 Barrochio d'Urbin (Feperigo Ba- 
 Rocci ou FioRi), ne a Urbin en 
 1528, mort en 1612. (Ecole Ro- 
 maine. ) 
 
 Bassan (Leandro), ne en 1558, 
 mort en 1623. (Ecole Venitienne.) 
 
 Bassan (Bassano-Jacopo da Ponte, 
 dit le), ne en 1510, mort en 1592; 
 eleve de Francesco da Ponte son 
 pere. (Ecole Venitienne.) 
 
 Calabrese (Mattia Pketi, dlt le), 
 ne a Taverna dans le royaume de 
 Naples, en 1613, mort a Malte en 
 1699; eleve de Guerchin. (Ecole 
 Napolitaine. ) 
 
 Canaletto (Antonio Canal, dit), 
 ne a Venise en 1597, mort en 1668 ; 
 eleve de Bernardo Canal son pere. 
 (Ecole Venitienne.) 
 
 Castiglione (Giovanni- Be NEnETTo), 
 ne a Genes en 1616, mort a Man- 
 toue en 1670. (Ecole Genoise. ) 
 
 CiGOLi (LoDOvico Cardi da), ne en 
 1559, mort en 1613; eleve de 
 Sandi di Tito. (Ecole Florentine.) 
 
 Adam, assis et s'appuyant sur la main droite, re- 
 9oit la pomme qu'Eve lui presente. 
 
 Le Christ appelant a lui Saint Pierre et Saint 
 Simon. 
 
 Ascension du Christ. 
 
 Le Christ au tombeau. (Copie.) 
 
 Les costumes bizarres et les physionomies des 
 personnages n ont jjas permis de reconnaitre le 
 sujet de ce tableau. 
 
 Job visite par ses amis. 
 Vue de la Brenta. 
 
 Interieur de I'eglise Saint- Marc, a Venise. 
 Portrait de vieillard. 
 
 La Vierge soutenant I'enfant Jesus derriere le^ 
 quel se trouve le jeune Saint Jean. 
 
 E E 
 
210 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 Description. 
 
 263 
 
 Ferrari (Gaudenzio), ne en 1484 a 
 \'aldugia, vallue de la Sesia, mort 
 en 1550. (Ecole Milanaise. ) 
 
 La Sainte Vierge. 
 
 264 
 
 GiORGios (Giorgio Barbakf.lli, dit 
 le), ne a Castel- Franco en 1477, 
 mort en 151 1 ; t-leve de Jean Bel- 
 Jin. (Ecole Venitienne. ) 
 
 Portrait de jeune homme. 
 
 265 
 
 Giotto, ne a Florence en 1276, mort 
 en 1336. (Ecole Florentine.) 
 
 Le Calvaire. 
 
 266 
 
 GuERcHiN (Gio-Francesco-Barbi- 
 ERi, dit le), ne a Cento en 1590, 
 mort en 1666; eleve de Cremonini 
 
 Un ex-voto. 
 
 
 et de Benedetto. (Ecole Bolonaise.) 
 
 f 
 
 267 
 
 Guide ( Reni Guido, dit le), ne a 
 Bologne en 1575, mort en 1642. 
 11 passa de I'ecole de Denis Cal- 
 vart dans celle des Carrache. (Ecole 
 Bolonaise.) 
 
 La fuite en Egypte. 
 
 268 
 
 - 
 
 Sibylle inspiree par un genie. 
 
 269 
 
 Mauatte (Carlo Maratta ou Ma- 
 RATTi), ne a Camanero di Ancona 
 en 1625, mort en 1713 ; eleve 
 d' Andrea Sacchi. (Ecole Ro- 
 maine. ) 
 
 Apollon et Daphne. 
 
 S70 
 
 . 
 
 Saint Francois adorant I'enfant Jesus. 
 
 271 
 
 Pai.me le Vieux (Jacopo Palma), 
 ne a Serinalta en 1540, inort en 
 1588 ; eleve de Titien. (Ecole Ve- 
 nitienne.) 
 
 Le Christ au tombeau. 
 
 272 
 
 Pamni (Jean-Paul), ne a Plaisance 
 en 1678, mort en 1740. (Ecole 
 Romaine. ) 
 
 Ruines et monuments de Rome. 
 
 273 
 
 Perugin (PiETRo Vannucci, dit 
 le), ne a Castcl della Pieve di Pe- 
 rugia en 1446, mort en 1524. 
 (Ecole Romaine.) 
 
 Madone. 
 
 274 
 
 Procaocini (Giulio-Cesare), n6 a 
 
 Saint Sebastien prot<^ge par des anges qui de- 
 
 
 Bologne vers 1548, mort vers 
 
 tournent les flcches de son mart) re. 
 
 
 1626. (Ecoles bolonaise et mila- 
 
 
 
 naise. ) 
 
 
 275 
 
 Sagoro (Ecole Lombarde.) 
 
 Le Christ mort pres de la Sainte Vierge et des 
 Saints Personnages. 
 
 276 
 
 Sasso Ferkato (Gio- Batista Sal- 
 
 Tete de Madone, les yeux baisses, couverte d'un 
 
 
 VI da), ne en 1605, mort en 1685. 
 
 voile. 
 
 
 (Ecole Romaine.) 
 
 
 277 
 
 'I'lNTORKT (JaCOI'O RoBUSTl, dit le), 
 
 ne a Venise en 1512, mort en 1594. 
 ( Ecole Venitienne. ) 
 
 Le martyre de Saint Marc. (Esquisse.) 
 
 278 
 
 TiTiEN (Tiziano VicELLio), nc a 
 
 Portrait de jeune bomme vetu d'nne robe de sole 
 
 
 ("adore en 1477, mort en 1576. 
 
 noire. 
 
 
 (Ecole Venitienne.) 
 
 
 279 
 
 - 
 
 Portrait de vieillard, costume en robe bordec 
 d'une fourrure. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 211 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 Description. 
 
 280 
 
 TiTiEN (attribue a) 
 
 Le Christ chez Simon le Pharisien. 
 
 281 
 
 Velasquez (Don Diego- Rodriguez 
 DE Silvat), ne a Seville en 1.599, 
 mort en 1660. (Ek;ole Espagnole. ) 
 
 Portraits de deux enfants. 
 
 282 
 
 Veronese (Paul, Paolo Caliari), 
 
 La Richesse repandant ses dons sur la vllle de 
 
 
 ne a Verone vers 1530, mort en 
 
 Venise. 
 
 
 1588. (Ecole Venitlenne.) 
 
 
 283 
 
 • 
 
 Adoration des Bergers. 
 
 284 
 
 - 
 
 Adoration de I'enfant Jesus par Sainte Cathe- 
 rine. 
 
 285 
 
 - 
 
 Les Noces de Cana. 
 
 ECOLE FRANCAISE. 
 
 286 
 
 287 
 288 
 
 289 
 290 
 291 
 
 292 
 293 
 
 294 
 
 295 
 296 
 
 297 
 298 
 
 Clouet ( FaANyois), dit Janet, vivait 
 
 en 1547. 
 CouRTiN (Jacques- FRAN90IS) 
 CouRTois (Jacques, dit le Bouii- 
 
 guignon), ne a Saint-Hippolyte, 
 
 en Franche-Comte, en 1621, mort 
 
 a Rome en 1676; ^leve de Jerome, 
 
 peintre Lorrain. 
 Gysels, ne a Paris en 1610, mort en 
 
 1673. 
 Le PoiTTEviN (Eugene), ne a Paris 
 
 en 1808. 
 Le Sueur (Eustache), ne a Paris 
 
 en 1617, mort en 1655; eleve de 
 
 Simon Vouet. 
 MiGNARD (Nicolas), ne a Troyes en 
 
 1608, mort a Paris en 1668. 
 Mignard (Pierre), surnomme le 
 
 RoMAiN, ne a Troyes, en Cham- 
 pagne, en 1610, mort a Paris en 
 
 1695 ; 61eve de Vouet. 
 Natier, ne a Paris en 1642, mort en 
 
 1705. 
 Tanneur, de Paris 
 Van Loo (Carle), ne a Nice en 
 
 Provence en 1705, mort a Paris en 
 
 1765. 
 Vautier (Alexandre) 
 Vouet (Simon), ne a Paris en 1582, 
 
 mort dans la meme ville en 1641. 
 
 Portrait d'Elizabeth, reine d'Angleterre. 
 
 Le Christ mort, sur les genoux de la Vierge. 
 Choc de cavalerie. 
 
 Un Cygne mort entour^ de gibier. 
 Naufrage sur la cote d'Afrique. 
 Le Sauveur donnant sa benediction. 
 
 Portrait d'Henriette d'Angleterre. 
 
 Portrait de femme, sous la figure de Diane 
 couchee. 
 
 Marie- Therese, imperatrice d'Autriche. 
 
 Vue de mer a la maree montante. 
 Diane et Endymion. 
 
 Portrait d'un gentilhomme du 17^ siecle. 
 Saint Charles- Borromee, priant pour les pesti- 
 feres de Milan. 
 
212 APPENDIX. 
 
 AUTEUKS I.ACOXNUS. 
 
 No. Description. 
 
 299 Deposition du Christ au torn beau. 
 
 SOO Le Seigneur entre deux Juifs, tenant le roseau. 
 
 301 La Resurrection. ' , 
 
 302 Le Calvaire. 
 
 503 Des anges dLtachent les fleclies du corps de Saint Sebastien. (Ecole Ita- 
 lienne- Lombarde. ) 
 
 304 Saint Pierre. 
 
 305 Sainte Famille. 
 
 306 Saint Frangois devaiu une tete de mort tient un crucifix de la main droite. 
 
 307 Le Christ porte au tombeau. 
 
 308 Une Sainte Famille. (Ecole Lombarde.) 
 
 309 Madone. 
 
 310 Le sommeil de Jesus. 
 
 311 Sainte Famille. 
 
 312 Marthe et Marie. 
 
 313 Sainte Anne. 
 
 314 Fa9ade lat^rale de I'eglise des SS. Michel et Gudule a Bruxelles, dans son 
 
 6tat primitif. 
 
 315 Premiere assemblee du parlement de Malines en 1473, jjresidee par le due 
 
 Charles de Bourgogne. 
 
 316 Portrait de Charles le Temeraire, due de Bourgogne. 
 
 317 Portrait de Francois L 
 
 318 Portrait de I'imperatrice Marie-Th^rese. 
 
 319 Portrait en pied de I'archiduc Albert. 
 
 320 Portrait en pied de I'infante Isabelle, epouse de rarcliiduc .Mbert, g()u\er- 
 
 nante des Pays-Bas. 
 
 321 Portrait de Loquenghien, amman de Bruxelles, en Tan J 575. 
 
 322 Portrait de S. A. R. le prince Charles- Alexandre, due de Lorraine et de 
 
 Bar, gouverneur des Pays-Bas. 
 
 323 Portrait de Madame du Defiant. 
 
 324 Portrait de dame en costume du commencement du 17'' siecle. 
 
 325 Portrait d'un general commandant. 
 
 326 Portrait d'homme vu jusqu'aux genoux. 
 .327 Portrait d'homme. 
 
 328 Portrait de I'empereur Josepi) IL 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 213 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 DL'Scvii)tioii. 
 
 TABLEAUX A N C 1 E N S. 
 
 Les tableaux designes ici sous la denomination d'anciens sont ceux qui ont ete produits avaiit 
 I'epoque oii les freres Van Eyck inventerent, en 1410, la maniere de peiiidre a I'huile, jusqu'a 
 Otto Venius, maitre de Rubens. 
 
 329 
 
 330 
 331 
 
 332 
 
 333 
 
 334 
 335 
 336 
 
 337 
 
 338 
 339 
 340 
 341 
 342 
 343 
 
 344 
 
 345 
 346 
 347 
 
 348 
 349 
 350 
 351 
 352 
 353 
 354 
 
 355 
 
 De Mabuse (Jean), ne a Maubeuge 
 en 1499, mort en 1562. 
 
 Grimner (Jacques), ni a Anvers en 
 
 1510, mort en . . . 
 Hemskekke (Martin), dit le Vieux, 
 
 ne a Hemskerke en 1498, mort en 
 
 1574. 
 KoECK ( Pierre d'Alost), ne a Alost 
 
 en 1500, mort en 1553; eleve de 
 
 Van Orley. 
 Mostard (Jacques), ne ii Harlem en 
 
 1499, mort en 1555. 
 Pateniers (Jean), ne a Dinant en 
 
 1480, mort en 1548. 
 ScHoREEL (Jean), ne a Schoreel en 
 
 1495, mort en 1562 ; eleve de Jean 
 
 de Mabuse. 
 Swart (Jean), ne a Groeningue en 
 
 1480, mort en 1541. 
 Van Conixloo (Jean). 
 
 Vandergoes (Hugo), nea Bruges en 
 1366, mort en 1427 ; eleve de Jean 
 Van Eyck. 
 
 Vanderwevde ( Rogier), ne a 
 Bruxelles en 1480, mort en 1529. 
 
 Le Christ chez Simon le Pharisien. 
 
 La Vierge et I'entant Jesus. 
 
 Histoire de la vie de Saint Hubert, 
 
 Le Seigneur succombant sous le poids de la croix. 
 
 Le Christ descendu de la croix. 
 
 Deux tableaux ayant servi autrefois de volets a 
 un grand tableau que le Musee ne possede pas. 
 La Vierge aux sept douleurs. 
 
 Van Hemmisten (Jean), ne a An- 
 vers au 16"^ siccle. 
 
 L'adoration des mages. 
 
 L'adoration des mages. 
 
 La Sainte Famille. 
 
 La naissance de Saint Jean-Baptis(e. 
 
 Un saint prelat au lit de la mort. 
 
 Les noces de Cana. (Volet.) 
 
 Jesus au milieu des docteurs. (Volet.) 
 
 L'adoration des bergers. 
 
 Le portement de la croix. 
 
 Le Christ en croix. 
 
 Tete de femme en pleurs, coiffee d'une guimbe. 
 
 La Vierge encore enfant est regue par un ange 
 
 sur les marches du temple. 
 Jesus parmi les docteurs. 
 L'annonciation a la Sainte Vierge. 
 La Nativite. 
 L'adoration des mages. 
 La circoncision. 
 Le Christ au tombeau. 
 Les disciples et les saintes fcmmcs qui s'eloignent 
 
 du sepulcre. 
 La descente de croix. 
 
214 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. 
 
 356 
 
 357 
 358 
 
 359 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Van Oort (I^ambert), ne a Amers- ' Deposition de la croix. 
 fort en 1520, mort en 1547. 
 
 Adoration des bergers. 
 Van Orley (Bernard), ne a Jesus-Christ mort au milieu de saints person- 
 Bruxelles en 1470, mort en 1.548. nages. 
 
 Sainte famille. 
 
 TABLEAUX ANCIENS 
 
 DONT LES NOMS DES AUTEURS SONT INCONNUS. 
 
 360 Le Pere eternel, revetu de la dalma- 
 
 tique et la tete couverte de la tiare, 
 tient son tils mort sur ses genoux. 
 
 361 Le massacre des innocents. 
 .■562 Saint Benoit. 
 
 363 Le Seigneur appelant a lui les petits 
 
 enfants. 
 
 364 La circonclsion. 
 
 365 La Vierge soutenant I'enfant Jesus 
 
 endormi, attend son reveil pour lui 
 offrir une pomme. 
 
 366 Le sacre de Saint Gregoire. 
 
 367 Tableaux a deux volets. 
 
 368 L'adoration des bergers. 
 
 369 L'annonciation de I'ange Gabriel a la 
 
 Vierge Marie. 
 
 370 La Vierge, I'enfant Jesus et Saint 
 
 Bernard. ( Figures a mi-corps. ) 
 
 371 Deux volets d'un grand tableau tres 
 
 ancien, peints sur un fond dore, repre- 
 sentant, I'un, le Christ a la colonne, et 
 I'autre, la resurrection. 
 
 372 Deux volets d'un grand tableau que le 
 
 Musee ne possede pas, representant 
 deux religieux entre deux colonnes. 
 
 373 Pendant du tableau precedent. 
 
 374 Celebration de la mcsse a I'elevation. 
 
 375 La Vierge et I'enfant J<'sus. 
 
 376 L'adoration des mages. 
 
 377 La Vierge et I'enfant Jesus. 
 
 378 La Creation d'Eve. 
 
 379 Le sacrifice d'Abraham. 
 
 380 L'adoration des mages. 
 
 381 Noe et sa famille devant I'arche. 
 
 382 La rencontre d'Ksaii et de Jacob. 
 
 383 
 384 
 385 
 386 
 387 
 388 
 
 389 
 
 390 
 391 
 
 392 
 393 
 394 
 395 
 396 
 397 
 398 
 399 
 400 
 401 
 402 
 
 403 
 
 404 
 
 405 
 
 406 
 407 
 408 
 
 Esaii devant son pere. 
 
 La Vierge et I'enfant Jesus. 
 
 Deux tableaux dans un encadrement. 
 
 L'adoration des mages. 
 
 Le sacre de Saint Gregoire. 
 
 La Vierge dans une gloire entouree de 
 symboles de litanies. 
 
 Le Christ dans sa gloire. (Ecole de 
 Craver. ) 
 
 L'adoration des mages. 
 
 L'adoration des bergers ; effet de lu- 
 miere. 
 
 La Sainte Vierge et I'enfant Jesus. 
 
 Cavalier. 
 
 Tete du Christ. 
 
 Tete de la Vierge. 
 
 La sainte cene. 
 
 L'assomption de la Sainte Vierge. 
 
 Tete du Christ. 
 
 Portrait d'une femme en priere. 
 
 Portrait d'homnie. 
 
 Portrait de femme. 
 
 Portrait d'homme, sous le patronage de 
 Saint Jacob. 
 
 Portrait de femme, sous le patronage de 
 Sainte Catherine. 
 
 Deux portraits. 
 
 Portrait de (uiillaume de Croy, mort d 
 Worm*--, en 1521, foiulateur du con- 
 vent des Celestins a Ileverle, pres de 
 Louvain. 
 
 Portrait de Jean Barrat. 
 
 Portrait de son ei)ouse, Jehenne Cambri. 
 
 Portrait d'une jeune dame, tenant un 
 a-illet. 
 
1 
 
 APPENDIX. 215 
 
 409 
 
 Portrait d'un homtne habille dans le 
 
 415 Portrait d'une dame en costume du 15* 
 
 
 gout du 16^ siecle. 
 
 siecle. 
 
 410 
 
 Portrait d'Edouard, roi d'Angleterre. 
 
 416 Portrait d'Elisabeth, reine d'Angleterre. 
 
 41] 
 
 Portrait. 
 
 417 Portrait en pied de la princesse Marie 
 
 412 
 
 Portrait d'une dame en costume du I 6^ 
 
 d'Angleterre, dans sa jeunesse. 
 
 
 siecle. 
 
 418 Portrait en pied de la reine Marie d'An- 
 
 413 
 
 Portrait en pied d'une dame du 16^ 
 
 gleterre, femme de Philippe IL, roi 
 
 
 siecle. 
 
 d'Espagne. 
 
 414 
 
 Portrait d'homme en buste. 
 
 419 Portrait d'homme, peint en 1551. 
 
 INDICATION DES TABLEAUX COURONNES 
 
 AUX DIVERSES EXPOSITIONS QUI ONT EU LIEU A BRUXELLES, SOUS LES AUSPICES DE 
 
 
 LA SOCIETE DES BEAUX-ARTS, FONDEE EN 1811. 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 Description. 
 
 420 
 
 BoENs (L.), de Tournai. 
 
 Reconnaissance des filles de la Messenie envers 
 le sage Bias. (Dessin.) Concours de 1813. 
 
 421 
 
 DeCoene( Henri), de Nederbraekel. 
 
 L'incredulite de Saint Thomas. Concours de 
 
 1827. 
 
 422 
 
 De Jonghe (J. B. ), ne a Courtrai en 
 
 Site boise ; un ane traverse I'eau. Concours de 
 
 
 1785, mort en 1844. 
 
 1824. 
 
 423 
 
 Delvaux (Ed.), ne a Bruxelles en 
 
 Pay sage avec figures et bestiaux. Concours de 
 
 
 1806. 
 
 1827. 
 
 424 
 
 De Vlieger, d'Eecloo. 
 
 Artisan en priere. Concours de 1827. 
 
 425 
 
 Du CoRRON (J.), ne a Ath en 1770. 
 
 Coup de vent au couchcr du soleil. Concours 
 de 1813. 
 
 426 
 
 FRAN901S (Ange N, J.), ne a 
 
 La robe ensanglantee de Joseph presentee a 
 
 
 Bruxelles en 1800. 
 
 Jacob. (Dessin.) 
 
 427 
 
 Gassies, de Bordeaux. 
 
 Agar renvoyee par Abraham. Concours de 
 1811. 
 
 428 
 
 Geirnaert (Joseph), ne a Eecloo 
 
 Officier rentrant dans ses foyers. Concours de 
 
 
 (Flandre orientale) en 1791 
 
 1818. 
 
 429 
 
 Gelissen (31. J.), de Bruxelles. 
 
 Paysage representant une vue de I'Arcadie. 
 Concours de 1818. 
 
 430 
 
 Maes(J, B. L.), ne aGandenl794. 
 
 Alexandre le Grand et son medecin Philippe. 
 (Dessin.) Concours de 1818. 
 
 431 
 
 Navez, ne a Charleroi en 1787. 
 
 Le serment de Brutus. (Dessin.) Concours de 
 1811. 
 
 432 
 
 Payen (A. J. J.), de Tournai. 
 
 Clair de lune. Concours de 1815. 
 
 433 
 
 PicoT (FRAN901S-EDOUARD), ne a 
 
 La rencontre d'Enee et de Venus. Concours de 
 
 
 Paris en 1786. 
 
 1813. 
 
 434 
 
 Thvs (Jkan-Fran^ois), ne a Brux- 
 
 Le pere Segers, jesuite et peintre distingue, re- 
 
 
 elles en 1783. 
 
 levant les presents que le Prince d'Orange lui 
 envoie par son premier peintre Willeberts, en 
 1643. Concours de 1821. 
 
216 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. 
 
 Artist's Name. 
 
 Description. 
 
 43 > 
 
 Vandesande-Bakhuyzen (Henri), 
 ne a la Haye en 1795. 
 
 Vue de dunes. Concours de 1821. 
 
 436 
 
 Van Regemokter (J.), ne a Anvers 
 en 1785. 
 
 Vue matinee d'automne. Concours de 1811. 
 
 437 
 
 Verei.len, ne a .\nvers. 
 
 Jupiter et Mercure chez Pliilemon et Baucis. 
 Concours de 1815. 
 
 563 
 
 DUGUET (GUASPRE OU GaSPARH,) dlt 
 
 PoussiN, ne a Home en 161.?, mort 
 en 1675 ; eleve de Nicolas Poussin 
 son beau-frere. 
 
 Paysage. 
 
 5G4 
 
 Hkmling Jean), ne a Damme, pres 
 de Bruges ; travailiait en 1479. 
 
 Descente de crolx. 
 
 565 
 
 Inconnus 
 
 Une Sainte Famille. 
 
 566 
 
 . 
 
 L'adoration des mages. 
 
 567 
 
 - 
 
 Un eveque jirechant devant une asscmblee de 
 prelats. 
 
 568 
 
 Jacobs (Pirrre-Fran9ois). 
 
 Cesar a qui Ton presentc la tete de Pompee. 
 
 569 
 
 Jordaens. 
 
 Les vaiiites du monde. (Tableau allegorique.) 
 
 570 
 
 Mazzuoli (Francesco), dit Parmi- 
 GiANo ou le Parmesan, ne a Parnie 
 en 1503, mort en 1540 ; fut disciple 
 
 Sainte Famille. 
 
 
 de Pierre Mazzuoli et se perfcc- 
 
 
 
 tionna chez le Correge. ( Ecole 
 
 
 
 Lombarde. ) 
 
 
 571 
 
 NicoLiE. (Ecole Flamande. ) 
 
 Interieiir de leglise Saint-Jacques a Anvers. 
 
 572 
 
 POURBUS. 
 
 Portrait (111 magistral Jac(|ues Vander Glieeiiste, 
 eciievin et conseiller de la ville de Bruges en 
 1552. 
 
 573 
 
 Sturm (Jacques), nc^ a Luxembourg 
 en 1805, mort a Rome en 1844. 
 
 L'eau benite. 
 
 574 
 
 Vander Meer (Gerard), ne a 
 Gand vers 1540. 
 
 I>'Assomption de la Vierge. 
 
 575 
 
 Van Dvck. 
 
 Portrait de Deilafaillc, bourgmestre d'Aiivers. 
 
 576 
 
 - 
 
 Portrait de raiitcur, jjcint par lui-meme. 
 
 THE END. 
 
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