7/3 L99o Lynn Outlines of Instruction in the Needle-working Trade THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES INDUSTRIAL EDUCATION OUTLINES OF INSTRUCTION IN THE NEEDLE-WORKING TRADE By J. V. Lynn FOR USE IN prni.ir PART-TIME AND FACTORY VESTIBULE SCHOOLS E>:< ; i x EEPJX< ; EXTEXSIOX DEI>A UTMEXT IOWA STATE COLLEGE AMES. IOWA i C 1 ^ ~ UNIVERSITY OF CALIFOrfNIA LIBRARY, ANGELE6. CALIF OUTLINES OF INSTRUCTION IN THE NEEDLE-WORKING TRADE By J. V. Lynn, Associate Professor Vocational Education I. INTRODUCTION . Education is a four-fold process in preparation for full or complete ~ living. To be adequately prepared requires that the individual shall Cv not be lacking in any one of the four elements necessary. First of ^ all there must lie health. Such instruction as will promote physical wellbeing is the foundation. Upon this foundation is laid the ability % to earn a livelihood, so the second instructional process is prepara- ^5 tioii to do one's share of the productive work of the world. Third, and perhaps the largest in point of volume, are the social and civic relationships, the ability to live among one's fellows. Fourth and last is the profitable employment of leisure time. A well rounded education therefore includes the physical, vocational, social-civic, and avocational elements. Each is required, and each should have % a controlling purpose within its own field. Physical education is ^ concerned with physique and nothing else. Vocational education is concerned with intelligent skilled production, and that alone. One cannot usurp the place of the others, but each is supreme in its own field. Having all this in mind, this study which has been made of the needle-working trade has the vocational element as its basis. While recognizing the other three, it is not proposed to discuss them nor to include them as factors in this problem. The purpose of this study may be stated as an attempt to provide instructional material for use in schools where girls are anticipating entrance upon or have already entered the needle-working trade. It is designed, moreover, for a local situation, and can only serve suggestively under any other circumstances. The local situation was found at Dubuque, Iowa, where the public part-time school Avas faced with the problem of giving civic and vocational instruction to girls now working for the H. B. Glover Company, manufacturing an extended line of sleepingwear and overalls. In the factory there is also a training organization for assistance to newly employed girls. Mr. Harvey L. Freeland, State Supervisor of Trade and Industrial Education, suggested the benefit which would come through a survey of the problem along some definite lines, and brought the matter to the attention of those con- cerned with vocational education at Iowa State College. The H. B. Glover Company, directly interested in the part-time school, and in the prospect of improving its own training school, kindly offered all its facilities for use in making the necessary analysis of the ' industry. The survey was made with the assistance of the part-time school teachers and the factory instructors. Officials of the company in- cluding foremen and forewomen were highly co-operative, making available all necessary information, and checking the work to ensure its authenticity. Each department was visited and a skeleton draft of the production organization was made with the payroll jobs in each department and the work jobs included in each payroll job. It was necessary, however to make a more complete study of those departments where girls are employed, and this was done partly through conferences with the factory instructors, and partly through direct observation of processes. The conferences Avere necessary to establish a point of view and create a general concept of the instruc- tion given in making certain garments. When the conferences had accomplished this they had served their purpose, and thereafter the analysis of processes could be made more speedily and accurately by direct observation of the girls at work on the garments. By observation and questioning, a mass of information was obtained regarding garment-making in four departments. Additional in- formation was secured from foremen and forewomen, which lias been arranged as a part of this study under general or common instructional material. While the direct purpose of the survey was to assist in the solution of a local problem, it is felt that it can serve in a suggestive way to other part-time school officers having similar problems in other industries. It will also be serviceable to heads of vestibule schools in the needle trade elsewhere, and may suggest to plant instructors of other industries a way out of some difficulties. II. METHODS OF PREPARATORY TRAINING There are two possible agencies for training workers in the semi- skilled employments. The public may provide for it in certain cases where the community value is sufficiently apparent to receive attention from the public school board. It is here that the part-time school can serve as the particular agency in such training. If needle- work is sufficiently important in the community enterprise, it is possible to provide special training for girls anticipating employ- ment in garment factories. These girls may be employed in various occupations, but have expressed a desire to learn power machine operating in order to change to an occupation with greater earning capacity. They may already be employed at juni'ir clerical service in a garment factory, and meantime be preparing themselves at part- time school to master the operation of a machine sufficiently well to enter one of the making departments. In either case it is a part-time preparatory class in power machine operating, and the public school board would be serving the interests of the community directly by meeting the vocational desires of these young people. The second training agency is what is called the factory vestibule school. It presupposes no preparation in advance of employment in some factory. The girl is hired to operate a sewing machine, and must be prepared to do so. Many factories place these novices on the production floor and train them there. There are several im- portant difficulties in successfully carrying through such a process of training. These may be itemized as follows: (a) learner is over- awed by speed and volume of work seen all around; (b) others are wholly engrossed with production so that the learner is very much alone at a time when a personal interest and a common problem is most appreciated; (c) learners are so scattered that personal super- vision by the instructor is made less effective; (d) if instruction is a part of the forewoman's duty, the supervision is rendered still less effective because of the duties incident to production. For these and other reasons it is best to segregate learners in a training room until they have acquired sufficient knowledge about the processes and the firm organization to take their place on the production floor as a unit in the plant and with an interest common to those already there. In the series of Training Bulletins issued by The Training Service of the United States Department of Labor there are four devoted to ilic " back through slide again. Put loop over free end of strap. Put this end up inside over middle bar of slide and back inside below it with Vk" free end. Draw outer part of strap down through slide to hold free end in place. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms : Materials straps, slides, loops. Tools none. Operations drawing through, sliding on. Location over and under middle bar of slide, inside and out- side strap. Stock : Recognition strap end of suspender, loops and slides in cartons. Working properties straps stiff to pull through. Safety and Care of Tools : None. Drawing and Science : None. Mathematics: Measuring 10" or 12", 6" and ^fa" by eye. PAYROLL JOB SORTER The sorter may have two duties, the main one of sorting coming first in preparation for the folders, and the second, tying up bundles, following after the folders are through. If work is coming through in large volume this job may be divided on that basis so that the sorter would be confined to the one operation only. It follows after the button tacker is through. 1. Sorting overalls by sizes : Bring lots from bins to sorting table. Sort by waist-size and leg-length numbers on label. Pile in stacks by sizes for folders. 2. Tie in dozens after folders: Hang a bunch tie strings about neck. Place string around dozen near one end, slipping end through the wire loop and drawing tight. Pull end into grip of the wire loop and put a half loop on to hold. Pack tied dozens in elevator truck, 41 Auxiliary Information Trade Terms : Materials overalls. Tools tying strings. Operations sorting, stacking, tying, packing. Location sorting, stacking and folding tables. Stock : Recognition label numbers indicating first waist size and sec- ond length of leg in inches, as 40-31, 40-32, 38-32, 36-33, etc. Working properties nothing. Safety and Care of Tools : None. Drawing and Science and Mathematics : None. PAYROLL JOB FOLDER The folder, as the name indicates, arranges the overall into neat and compact shape for packing, so folding it that the label sewn to the right end of backband is easily seen by those handling the gar- ment afterwards. 1. Folding : Lay overalls flat on table front up. Button strap tabs to bib, and fold both under at belt line inside the gar- ment, Fold right side to left side bringing label on top. Reverse with label below and fold bottoms to belt. Stack in dozens of uniform size, half of stack being placed end for end to balance its shape. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms : Materials overalls, suspender straps. Tools none. Operations buttoning, folding, counting, checking sizes. Location inside, front down, front up, end for end. Stock : Nothing additional. Safety and Care of Tools : None. Drawing and Science : None. Mathematics : Counting in half and full dozens. Sleeping Wear Department The sleeping garments for adults are made exclusively in this department, which is the most extensive from standpoint of quantity and variety of product. Four main types of garment are made, nightgowns and shirts, pa jama suits, pajunions, and pajunettes. Some special garments are made such as heavy woolen, hooded, out- door sleeping gowns, but these form a negligible item. In addition to the different sizes in the four main lines, there are very many varieties and designs of finish, so that operators are provided with a great many changes. During the winter season the factory works on summer varieties of sleeping garments, and the summer is spent 42 in working up next winter's supply of flannel garments. In all there are some 125 varieties of sleeping garments to make, ranging from the extremely plain to the most ornate. Ladies' nightgowns, men's nightshirts, and pajamas are familiar enough to need no defining. The pajunions and pajunettes are fancy styles of ladies' sleeping wear made somewhat after the fashion of the men's pajamas. The pajunion is a union of the pajama jacket and pants into one garment, the joining being made at the waist, and the jacket extending down around the body for 8" or 10" out- side. The pajunions are simply hemmed at the bottoms. Pajunettes are the still more ornate styles, made in one piece, without the jacket effect, and having elastic inserted at the bottoms, or being completely footed. Various special machines are in use for briar- stitching, hemstitching, wave-stitching, and the use of braid and ribbons for trimming extends the scope of the department to an unlimited degree. Winter garments are made almost exclusively of flannelette in white, pinks and blues, either plain or with woven stripes of, differ- ing shades and colors. Summer garments are made from prints, cambrics, silks, satins, soisette and other trade names for products of cotton and silk. The cut goods come from the cutting room in bundles of twenty- four. All accessory materials like braid, ribbon, loops, buttons, etc., are brought in boxes or crates from the stores department where they were assembled according to the descriptive sheet ready for No. | Payroll Job Work Jobs 1 1 Girdle maker Pants Make girdles. Jacket 0. 2 ' Seamer Pants make outseams, sew on seat-pieces, join backs. Jacket 0. 3 First part girl Pants Hem or tassel ends of girdle, make fly, hem top, join fronts. Jacket Make yoke and neck-facings, sew on pocket, join shoulders, sew on yoke, hem fronts. 4 ' Sleeve piecer Pants 0. Jacket- -Join sleeve-pieces. 5 i Sleeve maker Pants 0. Jacket Sew on cuffs, tack at wrist. 6 Examiner Pants Inspect previous workmanship. Jacket Inspect previous workmanship. 7 Bundle boy Pants 0. Jacket Match sleeve and body bundles. 8 Sleever Pants 0. Jacket -Join sleeves to body. 9 Feller Pants Fell inseams. Jacket Fell sleeves and sides. 10 Marker Pants Mark for fly buttons. Jacket Mark for buttonholes, mark for buttons. 11 1 Loop 'girl Pants 0. Jacket Sew loops or frogs on front. 12 Hemmer Pants Hem bottoms. Jacket Hem bottom. 13 Examiner Pants- -0. 14 ' . Buttonholer Jacket Inspect sleeving, felling, hemming, and loops. Pants Make buttonholes in fly. 1 Jacket Make buttonholes through loops. 15 Button sewer Pants Sew on fly buttons. I Jacket Sew on front buttons. 43 use when called for. Many of these accessories are in lot-lengths and require to be cut into individual pieces by the operator when needed. For purposes of getting instructional material in the operation of this department it will be sufficient to make a study of two typical standard garments the pajama suit, and night gown. The night gown has one-piece fronts and backs with yoke construction, while the pajama suit has open coat and pants construction. An airplane view of the making of a typical pajama suit will show the organization outlined on page 42. DETAILED JOB ANALYSIS The fact that there are two parts to the suit makes it possible to organize production on the parts individually or with the suit as a unit. Of two first part girls, one may work exclusively on pants and the other on jackets, or each may work on both parts. The organi- zation scheduled above may be used either way. In the analysis which follows, the form adopted will be simply an expansion of the outline just presented. The form may appear to read as if but one suit is being made. In all cases it is necessary to interpret quan- tity production on the basis of units or bundles of twenty-four. In some cases one single operation will be done on each of twenty-four pieces of the garment. Sometimes the operator will do two oper- ations on the piece while it is in the machine before taking the next similar piece. In this way she may have studied and experimented until she has found for herself that pieces may have one, two, three or four operations performed while going through once, according to conditions, parts, and her own skill. This study results in higher speed, and consequently higher wages on the piece-rate basis. Sleeves and other duplicate parts usually go through in pairs, that is, one operation done on a right will be done perhaps in a reverse order on the left before the next right is put under the machine. It should be noted particularly that auxiliary information which is common to all payroll jobs and work jobs has not been repeated each time a job is analyzed. The words "nothing additional," "nothing special," or "none" do not mean that if a girl is being taught some particular payroll job where such words are used descriptively, she has nothing on these points to be taught. It does mean that for sake of saving endless repetition of this data, it has been stated elsewhere in this study as common or general auxiliary knowledge, which must be taught to this girl now, and that on these items there is no special information peculiar to this job which requires teach- ing in addition to the general facts. This general information includes instruction on properties of materials used, on operating principles of machines, on their care, and on factory procedure and organization. -14 PAYROLL JOB GIRDLE MAKER The girdle maker operates a special two-needle machine and folder. It is used also for making what is called continuous facing, but the work is identical except for length of the pieces put through. The needles are spaced about five-eighth inches apart, and the folder doubles the cloth strip over, turns in both raw edges forming a strap about %" wide which is then sewed along the edges. The girdles arc sewn in half-lengths and are joined by the first part girl later. A. Pants: 1. Make girdles: Feed strips of cloth into the folder. Count out bundles of 48 half-lengths. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms : Materials girdle stock, thread. Tools special two-needle flat-bed machine, scissors. Operations feeding the folder, counting out bundles. Location setting folder fair, keeping edges of stock running out against the edge of folder. Stock : Recognition girdle pieces by shape, No. 80 white thread. Working properties Nothing special. Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. Drawing and Science : None. Mathematics: Counting in forty-eights. B. Jacket : Nothing. PAYROLL JOB SEAMER The seamer operates a two-needle flat-bed machine with folder. The operations have to do with preparing the pants for the first part girl. With extra large sizes of pajama pants it becomes necessary to cut and make with an outseam, but otherwise there is none. This job is done first if needed, and the leg piece treated thereafter as if there were no seam in it. A. Pants : 1. Make outseams if required : Lay front part of right leg inside and back part outside on machine right side up. Place in folder and sew from, top to bottom of seam. Lay parts of left leg in same relation, but sew from bottom to top. 2. Sew on seat-pieces : Put right leg outside on machine, right side up, and insert in lower part of folder. Place correspond- ing seat-piece in upper part of folder, sewing from bottom upwards. Put left leg inside on machine right side up, and insert in upper part of folder. Place corresponding seat- piece in lower part of folder and sew from bottom upwards. 3. Seam right and left legs together at back : Put right and left legs in lower and upper parts of folder as they lie at finish of operation 2 above. Stitch from crotch to top of goods. B. Jacket : Nothing. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Materials leg-pieces, seat-pieces, thread. Tools two-needle flat top machine, scissors. Operations seaming, joining. Location top and bottom of outseams, seat-piece seams, joining seam, crotch. Stock : Recognition parts by name and shape, No. 80 white thread. Working properties nothing additional. Safety and ('are of Tools: Nothing special. Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. PAYROLL JOB FIRST PART GIRL The first part girl does a number of single needle operations. On the pants she practically finishes the garment, since it only remains to have the bottoms hemmed and the buttons sew r n on the fly after it leaves this machine. On the jacket she does all the single needle work. In a sense therefore the name of the payroll job is a mis- nomer, since there is no second part or stage of single needle work to be done as there is in making the gown. The name sticks how- ever, because it is single needle construction which constitutes the main part of making all garments. A. Pants : 1. Hem, or hem and tassel, ends of girdle : If simply hemmed, fold over y 2 " and once again, sewing across and tacking. If a tassel is added, lay base of tassel on hem before sewing a box tack. 2. Make fly : Put left front of garment outside on machine right side up. Lay buttonhole fly (see buttonholer) over with its raw edge even with raw edge of front, and top end 1/2" above the lower of two notches on front edge, near the top corner. Sew %" from raw edges, starting at bottom and ending at top of buttonhole piece. Lay left front inside on machine wrong side up. Fold fly over so as to bring its folded edge just even with folded edge of goods to which it is sewn. Turn in back edge of fly and sew from bottom end clear through to top of garment. Put button side outside on machine wrong side up. Lay button-stay underneath wrong side up with edges even and top end at upper of two notches on front edge of button-side. Sew along edges from bottom of stay to lower of two notches on front edge of button side, then sew from this notch across button-stay until y 2 " from its inner edge. Tack end of this run. Cut with scissors through two layers of goods across the button-stay just above the last seam and as far as the tacking. Trim out the por- 46 tion of button-stay only above the cut just made. Turn button stay inside out until seam comes to edge, pushing angle of seam out square with tip of finger. Lay button side at inside posi- tion wrong side up, and sew up along outer edge of button- stay as far as top corner, then in across the end as far as it was cut away. Fold over part of right front which lies at top end of the stay as far as it was cut with scissors, and continue the seam up this folded edge to top of garment. Return a seam down a "foot" away from this edge to top of button stay. Turn in back edge of button-stay and con- tinue this seam down to bottom of stay. 3. Put in girdle : Lay garment in machine wrong side up and stitch down at joining seam (middle of back) about 1". Overlap ends of two half-lengths of girdle under the needle at this point and tack them to garment. Fold top edge of garment over the girdle, forming a wide hem lying exactly between the two notches 011 front edge of buttonhole side. Turn in lower edge and tack corner of hem. Sew clear through lower edge of top hem until 1" from end of right or button side. Stich label under lower edge of hem at this point and continue seam to edge of garment with a tack. (Care is needed to see that girdle is not sewn in with the hem at any point.) 4. Join fronts below fly: Check position from top hem of gar- ment, laying outsides of fronts together and fly edges even. Sew from lower end of fly to crotch %" from raw edges. Pull garment out flat on machine, right side up, and sew over this last seam from crotch back to fly. Tack bottom of fly crosswise. Sew back from fly to crotch a "foot" away to catch raw edges of hem beneath. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Materials garment (leg-pieces joined at back), fly, button-stay. half-length girdles, tassels, label, thread. Tools one-needle flat bed machine, scissors. Operations hemming, folding over, turning in, turning inside out, tacking, trimming, checking, joining. Location left and right fronts, outside and inside on machine, - right and wrong side up, top and bottom of fly, folded and raw edges of fly, lower of two front notches, outer and inner angles at top of button stay, top edge at joining seam, bottom of fly, crotch, a "foot" away. Stock: Recognition all parts by name and shape, No. 80 white thread. Working properties nothing additional. Safety: Needle guard on the foot prevents fingers from getting under the point. 47 Care of Tools Nothing special. Drawing and Science : Nothing special. Mathematics : Measuring l / 2 ", 1", %" by eye correct to %". B. Jacket : 1. Sew labels and size tab on yoke : Cut apart with scissors and fold or crease under ends of labels. Place yoke in machine right side up, and put label in position 1" from middle of top edge. Sew all around label, inserting size tab under one end. 2. Sew front or neck facings on yoke : Place yoke outside on machine right side up. Lay left shoulder facing on yoke wrong side up with notched end at shoulder edge of yoke, edges even, and stitch towards neck %" from raw edges. Repeat with right shoulder facing, sewing from neck to shoulder. Cut threads. 3. Make and sew r on pocket : Lay pocket in machine wrong side up. Fold over top edge as far as side notches, turn in edge for hem and sew once across. Put left front in machine right side up. Lay pocket in position with top edge opposite bottom of armhole and front edge in line with meeting point of neck and shoulder edges. Vary position nearest distance sidewise to match stripes. Box top corner at armhole, turn- in edge, and sew around bottom to front top with a box finish to seam. 4. Join fronts to back : Lay back outside on machine wrong side up. Place right front on top, right side up, with its shoulder edge y" inside shoulder edge of back. Stitch across a "foot" away from shoulder edge of front, sewing toward neck. Repeat with left front, sewing from neck to arm- hole. Pull garment out flat with fronts at inside position right side up. Fold raw edge in, and sew from armhole to neck. Repeat with right shoulder, sewing from neck to shoulder. o. Join yoke and neck facings to garment : Lay garment outside on machine right side up. Fold over upper end of left front hem as far as notch. Refold over %" of this hem and press flat. Lay left neck-facing and yoke over these hem folds, wrong side up with shoulder seams of yoke and body part matching and neck edge Vs" below neck edge of body. Sew from left front edge around neck until 4" from right front edge. Fold over top of right front edge as far as notch and refold over %". Lay these front hem folds under the right end of the neck-facing then continue the seam to right front edge. Trim off front end of facings. Snip raw edge of the neck at inter- vals with scissors so that in next operation it will lie flat. Turn yoke and facings over to inside position on body (or turn neck seam inside out), pushing the angles or points of 48 front hems out sharp and definite on the closed end of scis sors. 6. Finish front hems and neck facings : Lay garment on machine wrong side up and flatten out the neck seam all around. Tack at right front angle or point then sew a "foot" away from neck edge clear around to left front point. Continue this seam down left front hem a "foot" away from folded edge to bottom of jacket. Turn in back edge of left front hem and sew up from bottom to edge of neck-facing. Turn in lower edge of neck facings and yoke, sewing around to right front and down to bottom of jacket on back edge <>f right front hem. (The right front lias no seam a "foot" away from edge, as it is the button side and is covered over when buttoned up.) Auxiliary Information Trade Terms : Materials labels, size-tabs, yokes, neck facings, fronts, pocket pieces, backs, thread. Tools one-needle flat top machine, scissors. Operations cut apart, crease, join, box, turn in, fold over, re- fold over, trim, snip, turn inside out. Location top edge of yoke, notched end of neck facings, out- side and inside on, machine, wrong and right side up, edges even or offset l /s" or y", opposite left armhole, below meet- ing point of neck and left shoulder edges, facings over top ends of front hem folds, facings inside on body, angles or points at top of front hems, a ' ' foot ' ' away from edge, bottom of front hems, back edge of front hems, front hem notches. Stock : Recognition all parts by name and shape, No. 80 white thread Working properties nothing special. Safety: Nothing special beyond needle guard. Care of Tools : Nothing special. Drawing and Science: None. Mathematics: Measuring y#" exact, Vi" accurate to 1/16", %" accurate to VK" and 1" accurate to y" by eye. PAYROLL JOB SLEEVE PIECER The sleeve piecer operates a two-needle flat bed machine with folding attachment. Her duty is to join the sleeve parts with a seam running lengthwise of the arm. Sleeves come in two parts because they can be cut to advantage from the goods in that way, and the cost of piecing them is not so great as the loss of goods would be if cutting them in wholes. These seams must always be run so as to face the back. A, Pants : Nothing, 49 B. Jacket : 1. Put pieces of right sleeve in the machine right side up with front piece at inside position. Sew from shoulder to wrist. Repeat with left sleeve sewing from wrist to shoulder. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms : Materials sleeve pieces, thread. Tools two-needle machine with attachment, scissors. Operations joining. Location right side up, front piece inside on machine, right and left, wrist and shoulder ends. Stock : Recognition sleeve parts by size and shape. No. 80 white thread. Working properties nothing special. Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing additional. Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. PAYROLL JOB SLEEVE MAKER The sleeve maker uses a one-needle machine without folder. Her work is to put on the cuff and tack the ends of the cuff together ready for the feller. The latter operation, however, does not come until after the sleeve has been put in the garment. That is, the sleeve is sewn in after the cuff is on, but while the shoulder end is still in the flat. Cuffs may be just plain bands or they may have angular points or curved lines for their upper edges. In the ir- regular designs the widest part of the cuff is placed on the upper side or back of the arm. A. Pants : Nothing. B. Jacket : 1. Put cuff on sleeve : Put left sleeve outside on machine wrong side up. Lay cuff on top wrong side up, straight edges even, and widest part towards back of sleeve. Sew across a "foot" away from edge. Repeat with right sleeve. Fold cuff over into outside position with seam exactly at edge, and crease goods flat. Put sleeve outside on machine right side up and sew across a "foot" away from edge of cuff. Swinging sleeve to inside position right side up, turn in and sew along upper edge of cuff. Trim off ends of cuff even with sleeve. Repeat with right sleeve. 2. Tack ends of cuff: Put sleeve outside on machine wrong side up, and cuff end furthest off. Fold outer end of cuff over and in until Vj." from inner end. Tack V-/' along this tipper raw edge and edge out. Fold the 1 /i" lower extension over to meet the upper tacked edge, and fold over once more making a hem about 3/16" wide. Sew a box tack 1" long in this hem. This holds cuff, and makes a starting place for 50 the felling machine. This operation is identical for both right and left sleeves, no account being taken of the direction which the felled seam faces, both being started at the cuff. Arrange sleeves in pairs. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms : Materials sleeves, cuffs, thread. Tools one-needle machine, scissors. Operations cuffing, hemming, tacking, edging out. Location outside and inside on machine, right and wrong side up, right and left sleeves, back or outer side of sleeve, shoulder and wrist ends. Stock : Recognition sleeves right and left by seam, cuffs right and left by shape, No. 80 thread. Working properties nothing additional. Safety : Needle guard on foot of machine. Care of Tools : Nothing special. Drawing and Science : None. Mathematics: Measuring i/t", 3/16", i/ 2 ", 1" by eye, a "foot" away. PAYROLL JOB EXAMINER At this stage the examiner receives the jacket bodies from the first part girl and the sleeves from the sleeve maker in separate bundles. They are each inspected before going to the sleever. A. Pants : 1. Examine pants: Check length of sides and evenness of fly Inspect all seams for runoffs, skips and raw edges. Look for defects in goods. B. Jacket : 1. Examine sleeves: Inspect piecing seam, looking for straight seams, runoff, skip stitches and raw edges. Inspect cuffs for similar things, and also for width of tacked hem to see that it is not too wide for the folder of the felling machine 2. Examine jacket body : Check for even distance on each side of neck from shoulder seam to front points. Check length of front hems and see that they are of uniform width. Check position of pocket. Look in all three cases for runoffs, skip stitches, raw edges, and for defective goods. 3. Report to forelady all imperfect garments for repair. Auxiliary Information Trade 'Terms: Materials pants, jacket bodies, sleeves. Tools none. Operations checking lengths, inspecting seams. Location all parts of garment by name. 51 Special runoffs, skip stitches, raw edges. Stock : Recognition all parts of garment by name. Working properties nothing special. Safety and Care of Tools : None. Drawing and Science : None. Mathematics : Measuring uniform widths by eye, measuring 3/1 (i" boxed hem by eye. PAYROLL JOB BUNDLE BOY The sorter or bundle boy takes bundles of jacket bodies and sleeves in the racks and carefully checks body and sleeve bundles by numbers on tags so that the sleever 'will get mated bundles tied together. Each heretofore were coming through the processes en- tirely independent of each other, and must now be checked for as- sembling. A. Pants : Nothing. B. Jacket : 1. Sort and tie bundles together : Find two bundles in bins hav- ing tags with identical lot and bundle numbers. Tie same together. Place in bin. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms : Materials bundles. Tools tie strings. Operations sorting, tying. Location position of bins containing certain lot numbers. Stock : Recognition tags by lot and bundle numbers. Safety and Care of Tools : None. Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. PAYROLL JOB SLEEVER The sleever operates a two-needle flat bed machine with folder She joins sleeves to bodies. A. Pants : Nothing. B. Jacket : 1. Join sleeves to body : Snip raw edges of armhole at various points to help it spread in seam. Lay body inside on machine right side up, and sleeve in right position on outside. Sew left sleeve from front to back of armhole and right sleeve from back to front (seam facing sleeveward). Auxiliary Information Trade Terms : Materials bodies, sleeves, thread. Tools one-needle machine, scissors. Operations joining, snipping. 52 Location edge of armhole, outside and inside on machine, right side up, front and back of armhole, seam faces sleeve, right and left sleeve. Stock : Recognition body, right and left sleeve, No. 80 thread. Working properties nothing special. Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. Drawing and Mathematics : None. Science: Reversing edge of shoulder goods back into the seam requires that it take a larger circumference of a circle, that is, the edge must expand. If not snipped it will not expand but will draw and pucker. The snipping allows goods to open up at the cuts and thus lie flat. PAYROLL JOB FELLER The felling girl runs a two-needle special machine with a folder. The head extends forward from edge of table about 10" or 12", and the bed is small and round like an arm so that sleeves may be pushed back over it when joined into tubular shape. The work consists of closing sleeves and bodies. A. Pants : Nothing. B. Jacket : 1. Fell sleeve and body seams : Insert tacked end of cuff behind the folder under the needle. Bring edges in through the scrolls to position. Sew from cuff to armhole then down side of body to bottom. Repeat with other sleeve. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms : Materials jacket, thread. Tools two-needle special with folder, scissors. Operations felling. Location cuff behind folder, sleeve edges in folder, armhole, bottom of jacket. Stock : Nothing special. Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing additional. Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. PAYROLL JOB MARKER The marking girl has two stages or operations on the jacket, and one on the pants. In the former she must mark position of loops, then after the buttonholes are sewn through the loops she marks for the buttons. A. Pants : 1. Mark for fly-buttons: Lay garment flat on table front up. Turn back edge of outer or buttonhole fly until holes are partly exposed. Mark opposite them on button side. 53 B. Jacket : 1 . Mark for loops or frogs : Lay garment flat on table front up. Select pattern by size number on label sticker and place over left front hem. Mark at notches in pattern with pencil or chalk. 2. Mark for buttons (at a later time on this garment) : Lay gar- ment flat on table facing up. Put loop side over button side in exact position and mark through buttonholes with pencil or chalk. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms : Materials pants, jackets. Tools black pencil or colored to show on various colors of prints, pattern. Operations marking. Location buttonhole and button side of fly, loop and button side of jacket, fronts up. Stock : Nothing additional. Safety and Care of Tools : Do not waste pencil or chalk. Drawing : Marking positions. Science and Mathematics : None. PAYROLL JOB LOOP GIRL The loop girl sews the loops or frogs on the buttonhole side of the jacket at marks indicated. The loops are made of fancy braid and are already tacked into shape, so that they can be sewed with a row of stitching all around, following middle of the braid except around the buttonhole part, where the stitching is along the inner edge to insure neat buttonhole. A. Pants : Nothing. B. Jacket : 1. Lay left front hem on machine right side up. Place loop over mark and follow all around the braid with a row of stitching Kepeat as many times as marked. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Materials jacket, loops or frogs, thread. Tools one-needle machine, scissors. Operations stitching. Location front hem, right side up. Stock : Recognition thread in color to be inconspicuous on loops. Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 54 PAYROLL JOB HEMMER The hemming girl operates a single needle flat bed machine with- out folder, and hems the bottom of both pants and jackets. A. Pants: 1. Hem bottoms : Place leg of garment inside on machine draw- ing back the upper part so as to expose lower part against the bed wrong side up. Fold over %" then over again for a %" hem. Stitch once around along the turned in edge. Repeat with other leg. B. Jacket : 1. Hem bottom : Place garment inside on machine wrong side up. Fold over %" hem, turning in the raw edge and stitch- ing. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Materials pants, jacket, thread. Tools one-needle machine, scissors. Operations hemming, folding over, turning in. Location bottom of garments. Stock : Recognition No. 80 white thread. Working properties nothing special. Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special. Drawing and Science : None. Mathematics : Measuring %" and %" by eye. PAYROLL JOB EXAMINER The jacket is returned to the examiner after it has been sleeved, felled, looped and hemmed, so that these operations may be in- spected. A. Pants: Nothing. B. Jacket : 1. Examine jacket: Inspect seams at shoulder, felling seams, loops and bottom hems for straightness, runoffs, skips and raw edges. Auxiliary Information (See under first stage of examining this garment.) PAYROLL JOB BUTTONHOLER The buttonhole machine is a special automatic machine which sews a pearl stitch all around the position where the buttonhole is to be,then cuts through the cloth inside the stitches. Its head stands forward somewhat from the table so that garments can be readily put in the foot in any required position. This foot moves forward and back, carrying the goods with it, and its motion may be ad- justed to any length of buttonhole required. The work consists of two jobs which are timed widely apart in the making of the pajama 55 suit, the buttonhole fly being required at the beginning of making the pants, and the jacket coming almost at the end. A. Pants : 1. Make buttonhole fly: Fold piece along the middle lengthwise, wrong sides in, and put into the machine. Number of holes is indicated by a table of sizes. The spacing of these is a matter of judgment and is generally arbitrarily set by notic- ing where the end of the fly or the last buttonhole made lies with respect to some part of the bed of the machine. There is no divided scale of any kind on the machine for spacing buttonholes. B. Jacket : 1. Sew buttonholes in jacket : Put one of the loops, which have already been sewn over the front hem at marks indicated by the marker, under the machine right side up. Repeat in any desired order with remaining loops. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms : Materials fly-pieces, jacket, thread. Tools special machine, scissors. Operations folding, buttonholing. Location middle of fly, front hem. Stock: Recognition fly-pieces by shape, No. of thread. Working properties nothing special. Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. Drawing, Science or Mathematics : Spacing buttonholes by eye, accurately to y" lengthwise of goods and 1/16" crosswise. PAYROLL JOB BUTTON SEWER The button sewing machine is a special machine with its head standing forward from edge of table. The buttons are placed in the upper part of the foot, and the garment in the lower part of this same foot. The whole foot is controlled by a cam which makes it move sidewise back and forth just the distance between holes in the button, and keep time exactly with the needle. If four-hole buttons are used a second cam is brought into use which compounds the side- wise motion with a back and forward motion at the same time. This brings the needle first over two holes in a diagonal direction, and then over the other two diagonally. The record of number of but- tons sewn on is made by an automatic counter attached to the ma- chine. A. Pants : 1. Sew buttons on fly : Spill buttons from carton conveniently on bed of machine to right of needle. Put one in foot of machine. Place button side of fly right, side up in foot of 56 machine with mark under center of button. Hew until it has been sufficiently well attached. Repeat with oilier posi lions. B. Jacket : 1. Sew buttons on jacket : Put button in foot. Lay button side of front in foot with mark under center ofbutton. Sew until judged sufficiently attached. Repeat with balance of posi- tions. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms : Materials buttons, pants, jacket, thread. Tools special machine, scissors. Operations button sewing. Location button side of fly and jacket front. Stock : Recognition pearl buttons by sizes in cartons, No. 80 white thread. Working properties nothing special. Safety : Nothing special. Care of Tools : Buttons must be placed fair, that is with holes in a line parallel with back of foot, otherwise needle will strike "off" and break. Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. So far as the sleeping wear department is concerned the pajama suit is now complete. The departmental product is checked by the desk girl, and goes down the chute to the folding department. The second of two typical garments which are to be described in detail as a part of the sleeping wear department product is the night gown. The type selected will be a plain white flannelette with double front and back yokes, the front yoke being trimmed with braid and hem stitching. Sleeves will be full length and cuffed. A skeleton outline of the making of this nightgown follows: No. Payroll Job Work Jobs 1 1 First part girl Join lining and upper front yokes together, sew on braid. 1 Hem front opening. Sew front yokes to body, sew label on back lining-yoke, join back lining-yoke to body , Join front and back yokes. 2 Hemstitcher Hemstitch around edge of braid. 5 Sleeve piecer Piece sleeves. Sleeve maker Put cuffs on sleeves. Examiner Inspect previous workmanship on bodies and sleeves. Bundle boy Sort bundles of sleeves and bodies to match. Sleever Join sleeves to body. I Feller Close in sleeves and bodies. Hem bottom. 10 Examiner Inspect finished garment. 11 Marker Mark for buttonholes and buttons. 12 Buttonholer Make buttonholes. 13 Button sewer Sew on buttons. 14 Buttoner Button up garment. 57 DETAILED JOB ANALYSIS As in the pajama jackets, it will be noted that after the bundles come from the cutting room, the sleeve parts are separated from the others, and two sub-bundles are made with identical numbers on the tags. These run through separately, the bodies going to operators 1 and 2, and the sleeves to 3 and 4, then both to operator 5 separately, after which they are mated into one bundle again by the bundle boy. PAYROLL JOB FIRST PART GIRL The first part girl uses a one-needle machine and is employed ex- clusively on the yoke construction. In plain yokes her work is continuous, but when certain kinds of fancy stitching are added, the operations are interrupted by this extra work which is done upon other machines by other operators and then returned for com- pletion. In the case of the garment being described, the first pan girl joins the front lining and upper yokes together and sews th\ braid to the upper yoke according to whatever design has beei. written into the specification for that lot number. It then goes to the hemstitcher and is returned for further processes by the first part girl. 1. Join front upper and lining yokes: Put right half of upper yoke outside on machine wrong side up. Lay correspond- ing lining yoke on top with wrong side up (i. e. parts both rights together). Sew along neck edge a "foot" away as far as bottom of front edge of yoke. Turn parts right sides out and press seam flat. Lay yoke on machine right side up. Place braid in position a uniform distance from neck and bottom edges, cutting at angles and sewing along all edges. Repeat with left front yoke. "2. Hem opening of body front : Lay front on machine wrong side up. Fold over right or buttonhole side as far as notch on top edge and uniform width to bottom of opening. Turn in the edge and sew along it from top to bottom of opening. Swing garment in machine, repeating with left or button side, but sewing from bottom to top. 3. Join front yokes to body front : Lay right half outside on machine with lining yoke up and bottom edge towards right, Fold back the front or upper yoke underneath far enough to escape being sewn in. Lay body front over right half of yoke right side up and sew to lining yoke from armhole to V from notch. Arrange pleat at notch, facing towards arm- hole and wide enough to bring front hem even with front line of yoke. Complete seam to front edge. Repeat with left front yoke, but work from front opening to arm hole. Pull out both yokes from beneath into position, laying uppei front yoke over the body front and turning in the lower edg to cover seam. Sew from right shoulder joining armhole 58 edges together as far as body, then across to right front. Repeat with left part, but work from front hem to armhole then up left armhole to shoulder. 4. Box bottom of front opening: Put body front in machine right side up. Lay right front hem over left, checking length from neck to bottom. Sew a box tack at lower end. f). Sew label on back lining yoke : Lay back lining yoke in ma- chine right side up. Place label 1" from top edge at middle and size tab under one end. Sew all around edge of label. 6. Join lower back yoke to body: (Note: This operation re- quires a single folder and also the use of a gathering attach- ment to take up the extra width of goods in the body back just at the middle of the yoke.) Lay body outside on ma- chine wrong side up. Lay back lining, yoke inside on ma- chine body side up. Insert yoke in folder. Work from right armhole to say 2" from middle of back. Start gather- ing attachment and allow it to operate until body and yoke are both taut between needle and hands which hold parts at left armhole. Stop gathering attachment and continue seam to end. 7. Join back and front yokes at shoulders : Lay body back out- side on machine wrong side up with lining yoke out in posi- tion. Lay body front over it right side up with shoulder edges of front parts of yoke and back lining yoke even. Lay upper back yoke wrong side up over front yoke with shoulder edges even. Sew a ''foot" away from shoulder edges, working from right armhole around back of neck to left armhole. Pull out body back from .beneath to inside position on machine and right side up. Pull upper back yoke over so as to cover its own lining yoke. Sew along shoulder seam from right armhole, then a "foot" away around back of neck, then along shoulder seam to left armhole. Turn in bottom edge of upper back yoke to cover seam, and stitch across from right sleeve opening to left. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Materials front and back yoke pieces, back and front of body, thread, braid, label and size tab. Tools single-needle machine, folder, gatherer, scissors. Operations joining, hemming, boxing, gathering, turning in. Location upper and lower (or lining) yokes, right and left halves of front yoke, back yoke, top edge of body front and body back, right and left armholes, shoulder, neck and lower edges of yoke, right and wrong side up, inside and outside on machine, pleat and pleat notches, a "foot" away, pleats facing towards armhole, front opening. 59 Stock : Recognition yoke and body parts by shape, colors and stripes, No. 60 white thread. Working properties stitch may be made longer in flannel be- cause the soft goods allows it to sink out of sight. Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing additional. Drawing and Science : None. Mathematics : Judging accurately to Vi" the distance from cen- ter to start gatherer so as to have the gathered portion of body back centrally spaced. PAYROLL JOB HEMSTITCHER This operator runs a special machine which requires six threads, two being colored floss and four the usual cotton. Just in front of the needle is a plunger which separates the fibres of the goods. The sewing threads below and above hold these openings permanently in shape and at the same time enclose the colored floss along the edges. It is entirely an automatic process. 1. Hemstitch halves of front yoke: Lay piece in machine right side up. Sew through the goods just along and outside of the edge of the braid. Auxiliary Information Trade "Terms: Materials halves of front yoke, thread, colored floss. Tools special machine, scissors. Operations hemstitching. Location right side up, just outside edge of braid. Stock : Recognition right and left halves of front yoke, No. 60 thread, colored floss by shades. Working properties nothing special. Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. PAYROLL JOB SLEEVE PIECER The sleeve piecer operates a two-needle machine with folder. Sleeves come in most cases from the cutting room in two parts or pieces and these have to be sewn together. 1. Piece sleeves: Lay first sleeves in machine right side up, so that back of sleeve lies at outside position (that is, all sleeve seams must face back of sleeve). Set in folder and sew pairs, rights running through from shoulder to wrist, and lefts from wrist to shoulder. Auxiliary Information Trade "Terms: Materials sleeve-pieces, thread. Tools two-needle machine with folder, scissors. Operations piecing or hemming. 60 Location front and back of sleeve, shoulder and wrist ends. Stock : Recognition front and back parts by shape, No. 60 white thread. Working properties nothing special. Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing additional. Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. PAYROLL JOB SLEEVE MAKER The sleeve maker puts cuffs on the sleeves with a single needle machine. 1. Attach cuffs to sleeve : Pair sleeves as check on piecer. Place first sleeve outside on machine right side up. Lay cuff underneath right side up, and edges even. Sew a "foot" away from edges half way across. Make pleat in sleeve part facing back of sleeve and taking up extra goods until length of cuff and width of sleeve at wrist are equal. Con- tinue seam to end of cuff. Pull out cuff from underneath and fold back over to cover seam. Turn in edge and sew across. Sew across folded edge of cuff a "foot" away. Trim ends of cuff if needed. 2. Tack cuff: Lay sleeve outside on machine wrong side up and cuff edge furthest away. Fold outer end of cuff over and in until %" from other end of cuff. Tack along this raw edge about V 2 " then edge out. Fold the lower end of cuff over to meet raw edges together and then fold over once again making a 3/16" hem. Sew a box tack 1" along on this hem. This, holds the cuff and makes a starter for the felling machine. This operation is identical for both right and left sleeves. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms : Materials sleeves, cuffs, thread. Tools one-needle machine, scissors. Operations cuffing, hemming, pleating, tacking, edging out. Location outside and inside on machine, right and wrong side up, right and left sleeves, back or outer side of sleeve, shoulder and wrist ends. Stock : Recognition sleeves right and left by seam, cuffs by shape, No 60 thread. Working properties nothing additional. Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. Drawing and Science : None. Mathematics: Measuring %", V 2 ", 3/16", 1" by eye, a "foot" away. 61 PAYROLL JOB EXAMINER The examiner receives the garment in two separate sub-bundles, which are inspected possibly at different times and without any thought of their connection. 1. Examine sleeves: Inspect piecing seams, cuffs and tacking, looking for run-offs, skips, raw edges and possible defects in goods. Check pairs according to pleat and cut of cuff. 2. Examine bodies : Inspect bodies for similar points, and in addition see that all parts of the yoke fit easily or sit well, that seams a ' ' foot ' ' away are not too far from the edge, and that colors and stripes are not mixed. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Materials sleeves, bodies. Tools scissors. Operations inspecting. Location all parts of garment by name. Special run-offs, skips, raw edges, lie flat or sit well. Stock : Recognition sleeves, bodies. Working properties nothing additional. Safety and Care of Tools : None. Drawing and Science : Nothing special. Mathematics: Measuring a "foot" away by eye. PAYROLL JOB BUNDLE BOY The duty of bundle boy is to match the sub-bundles by their lot and bundle numbers on card. 1. Select bundle of sleeves from sleeve bin. Find bundle of bodies with similar numbers on tag. Tie these together and place in a third bin. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Materials sleeves, bodies. Tools none. Operations checking numbers, tying. Location special bins. Stock : Bundles by numbers. Safety and Care of Tools : None. Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. PAYROLL JOB SLEEVER The sleever uses a two-needle flat-bed machine with folder for join- ing sleeves to body. 1. Join sleeves to body : Check length of edges of sleeve and trim off at shoulder end if unequal. Snip edges of armhole at intervals. Lay body inside on machine and sleeve outside, 62 both right side up (seam faces sleeve). Put parts in folder, sewing left sleeve from front towards hack, and right sleeve from hack to front. Podges must start and end even. Notch on sleeve must meet shoulder seam. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Materials sleeves, bodies, thread. Tools two-needle flat top machine with folder, scissors. Operations checking length, trimming, snipping, joining. Location Right and left, front and back, inside and outside on machine, right side up. Stock : Recognition right and left sleeves, bodies, No. GO thread. Working properties nothing special. Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special. Drawing and Mathematics : None. Science: The turning back of edge of body part in the armhole seam causes it to take a position on a larger circle than at the folded edge. That is, it must be increased in length. If snipped the edge will open up and lie flat. If not it will draw the seam into a puckered effect. PAYROLL JOB FELLER The feeling girl operates a two-needle special machine with folder. The head stands forward from the table 8" or 10", and the bed is small and round so that a closed cuff or tubular sleeve may slide over it behind the needles. The duty of this machine is to close in the arm and side of body. 1. Fell garment: Put cuff of sleeve (already tacked) behind folder and bring edges of the sleeve part into place in folder. Sew from cuff to armhole and down side to bottom of body. Repeat with other side. No thought is taken in this oper- ation for direction in which the seam faces. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Materials garment. Tools two-needle special machine with folder, scissors. Operations felling. Location cuff, armhole, bottom of body. Stock : Recognition garment. Working properties nothing special. Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. PAYROLL JOB HEMMER The bottom of the garment is hemmed on a one-needle machine without folding attachment. ] . Hem bottom : Place garment inside on machine. Fold over 1" of underneath layer at center of back and turn in edge as stitching is done completely around to starting point. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Material garment. Tools one-needle flat bed machine, scissors. Operations hemming, folding over, turning in. Location bottom edge of gown at center of back. Stock : Nothing special. Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special. Drawing and Science : None. Mathematics: Measuring 1" by eye. PAYROLL JOB EXAMINER The garment is inspected a second time to check on the sleeving, felling and hemming work. 1. Examine garment : Inspect sleeve seams at shoulder, felled seams and hem at bottom. Check for lying even, straight seams, and for the usual defects 011 seams. Auxiliary Information (See former stage of examiner's work.) PAYROLL JOB MARKER The marker spots positions for buttons by marking through the buttonholes. Only on such garments as have long buttoned parts is it necessary to mark positions for buttonholes. In these cases it is done by marking at V-shaped notches on the edge of a pattern made of heavy cardboard. This part of the job would come natural- ly before the buttonholer gets the garment. Button positions must always be marked after the holes are sewn. 1. Mark for buttonholes: Lay garment flat and even. Select right size of pattern. Place pattern on right hem of front opening and mark at notches. 2. Mark for buttons : Lay garment flat with front up. Straighten out front hems and mark through holes with a soft black or colored pencil. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Materials garment. Tools pencil, patterns by sizes and designs. Operation marking. Stock : Nothing special, 64 Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. PAYROLL JOB BUTTONHOLER The buttonholes are made on a special machine, described under pajamas. On ladies' nightgowns there may be no buttons or front opening so that the job preceding this job and the one following it may also frequently be unnecessary according to the design. In this design the yoke is close fitting about the neck, so that a buttoned opening is needed. 1. Make buttonholes : Place garment in machine with buttonhole hem (right) in the foot. Sew buttonholes as marked. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Materials garment, thread. Tools special machine, scissors. Operations sewing buttonholes. Location right hem of front opening. Stock : Nothing special. Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None. PAYROLL JOB BUTTON SEWER The button sewing machine was described under pajamas. On those night gowns which have front openings, buttons are sewn at marked points. 1. Place button hem of garment in foot of machine. Plcae button in upper part of foot. Sew until securely fastened. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Materials garment, buttons, thread. Tools special machine, scissors. Operations placing buttons, sewing. Location left hem of front opening. Stock : Recognition pearl buttons by sizes in cartons. Working properties nothing additional. Safety and Care of Tools : Blunt needle breaks buttons. Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. PAYROLL JOB BUTTONER The button girl has simply to button up the garment. It is a monotonous job with no attractive features and requiring no partic- ular knowledge. 1. Button front of garment : Start at neck and work to bottom of pleat. Tie into bundles. Deliver to chute to folding de- partment. 65 Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Location button sometimes oft' place by being sewn on a mis- taken mark. Report to forelady. Safety : Sharp edges on imperfect buttons may cut finders. Children's Sleeper Department Children's sleepers are made largely from flannelette, but other lighter cotton goods are used for summer weights. Flannelette is woven and napped so as to be the same on both sides so that there is no right and wrong side to the cloth, but cotton goods are sized and ironed so as to produce a glaze on one side which is generally used as the right side. Some cotton goods are printed on one side. When speaking of the right side of flannelette, we mean the side which becomes the outside of the garment, Sleepers are union garments, made sometimes with a hood attached at the neck, and also as a rule, though not always, with attached feet. They are mostly footed, and without the hood. Sizes are indicated on the labels by years, ranging from 1 to 14. The design of the garment provides for buttoning from neck down front to bottom of a boxed pleat, and also across the top of a back flap reach- ing to side openings. The construction of a sleeper may be summarized in the follow- ing way : No. I Payroll Job Work Jobs 1 1 Hemmer Hem bottoms of backs. 2 1 First part jdrl Sew belt on back, hem buttonhole and button side of fronts, 1 join fronts, make and sew on pocket, sew on toe-pieces. 3 Joiner Piece sleeves if needed, join backs of pants, join sleeves to 1 body, join shoulders. 4 Second part girl Hem side openings on pants, sew backhand to pants, heel 1 bottom of pants, sew cuffs on sleeves, sew on collar. 6 1 Feller Fell sleeves and outside and inside seams of legs. 6 1 Examiner Inspect workmanship. 7 1 Tacker Tack wrist and side ends of felled seams. 8 1 Buttonholer Make buttonholes on front, backhand and cuffs. 9 I Markers Mark for buttons. 10 1 Button sewer Sew on buttons. 11 1 Buttoner Button garment ready for folding department. DETAILED JOB ANALYSIS There is sufficient instructional material connected with the various machines and goods used throughout the processes of making this sleeper, to warrant a detailed study of the operations in order that new operators may be given adequate instruction on processes and auxiliary information which goes with them. In the study which follows it may appear as if but one garment is being made. The reader must interpret always that twenty-four similar garments are going through in each case. Sometimes the operations go singly, sometimes in pairs, or maybe in threes or fours 66 as the pieces go through once. This is a matter for careful study by operators to determine just what is for them individually the mosl rapid and efficient method of handling. PAYROLL JOB HEMMER The hemming girl operates a one-needle machine with folder at- tachment, running a hem across the bottom of the back piece. 1. Hem backs: Lay back outside on machine wrong side up. Put left bottom edge in folder and stitch across to right corner. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Material flannelette, cambric or print backs, white thread. Tools one-needle flat-top machine with folder, scissors. Operations hemming. Location wrong side up, left and right, bottom edge, setting folder fair. Stock : Recognition backs by shape, No. 60 white thread. Working properties flannel gives off a great deal of lint, mak- ing it necessary to clean machine more frequently. Absence of starch or sizing makes goods limp, edge of goods must be fed in with fingers close to the folder, and an even tension held on goods to prevent gathering or drawing. Safety : The folder acts as a guard to the needle.' Care of Tools: Nothing special. Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. PAYROLL JOB FIRST PART GIRL The first part girl operates a one-needle flat top machine without attachments. She works on the front part of the garment with exception of sewing the belt across the middle of back. This belt serves no function beyond being a button-stay. 1. Sew belt to back : Check for even length of right and left side from arm's eye to notch. Lay back inside on machine right side up, bottom edge to the left. Place belt-piece right side up with upper edge opposite notches. Turn in edge and stitch across from left to right, returning similarly on lower edge of belt, but leaving both ends open. 2. Hem front opening: Lay right front (buttonhole side) inside on machine wrong side up. Fold over hem to notch, making uniform width to bottom of opening. Turn in edge and sew down from neck to bottom along inner edge of hem. Lay left front (button side) inside on machine Avrong side up. Fold over hem to notch at neck, but narrowing to y 2 " width at bottom. Turn in edge and stitch from bottom to neck along inner edge. 67 3. Join fronts : Lay fronts in machine right side up. Cheek for length from neck to bottom of hems. Lay right front hem over left and stitch across at bottom of pleat. Turn in edge of right front below pleat to crotch and stitch along edge returning from crotch to front a "foot" away. Box bottom of front hems. 4. Make and sew on pocket : Lay pocket-piece inside on machine wrong side up. Fold over top as far as notches and stitch across top of fold. Lay right front of garment in machine right side up. Place pocket with top edge 1" below arm's eye, and "3 fingers" away from right hem. (If striped goods, match stripes nearest way right or left.) Turn in side edge nearest front, boxing top corner and stitching around to armhole corner with a box tack at finish. 5. Sew on toe-pieces : Lay garment outside on machine right side up. Place toe-piece over bottom of leg wrong side up at level of notches. Stitch around near edge from notch to notch, nothing being turned in. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Materials back, back-belt or button-stay, fronts, pocket-piece, toe-pieces, white thread. Tools one-needle flat top machine, scissors. Operations checking lengths, hemming, turning in, folding over, boxing, joining/ tacking. Location arm's eye or armhole, right and wrong side up, out- side and inside on machine, right and left sides, buttonhole and button sides, neck, bottom of front hem, crotch, a "foot" away, "3 fingers away," bottom of leg. Stock : Recognition all parts by name and shape, No. 60 thread. Working properties nothing additional. Safety : Needle guard on foot to protect fingers. Care of Tools: Nothing special. Drawing and Science: None. Mathematics : Measuring Vi/', 1" and "3 fingers" by eye. PAYROLL JOB- JOINER The joiner operates a two-needle flat bed machine with a folder. Sleeves may come from the cutting room in whole pieces or in two pieces, some bundles having some of each kind. The joiner checks this and joins or pieces those necessary. She also joins all other parts which are done on the flat with double seams. 1. Piece sleeves: Lay first sleeve in machine right side up. so that back of sleeve lies at outside position (that is, all sleeve seams must face back of sleeve). Set in folder and stitch in 68 pairs, right running through from shoulder to wrist, and left from wrist to shoulder. 2. Join shoulders : Lay back of garment inside on machine right side up. Lay front in outside position right side up (that is, shoulder seam always faces front). Set right shoulder in folder, sewing towards neck, following with left shoulder from neck to arm hole. Trim ends of seam if needed. 3. Join sleeves to body: Lay body inside on machine right side up, and left sleeve outside in position (that is, shoulder seam must face the sleeve). Set front corners of sleeve and arm- hole in folder and stitch through to back of sleeve. Place right armhole and sleeve in position, stitching from back of sleeve over shoulder to front corner. 4. Join backs of pants : Place right back outside and left back in- side on machine right side up. Set in folder, sewing from crotch to top. Trim ends of seam even if needed. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Materials sleeve-pieces, front and back of garment, backs of pants, thread. Tools two-needle, flat bed machine with folder, scissors. Operations seaming. Location right side up, outside and inside, shoulder and wrist ends, armhole, neck, back and front of sleeve, right and left back of pants, crotch, seam faces backward or sleeveward. Stock : Recognition all parts by name and shape, No. 60 white thread. Working properties nothing additional. Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. PAYROLL JOB SECOND PART GIRL The second part girl continues the single needle work, putting on cuffs and collars, and hemming sides and top of the pants. 1. Hem side openings on pants : Lay back of pants inside on ma- chine wrong side up. Fold over to depth of side cut on left openiing, and to notch on top edge. Sew from bottom of hem to top edge, turning in edge. Repeat with right side opening, sewing from top down and edging out. 2. Sew backhand to pants : Double band end to end, and notch edge at middle fold with scissors (used as a marker to notch rest of bundle). Put pants outside on machine wrong side up. Lay band along top edge wrong side up with notch at joining seam. Fold over end of band until even with hem of right side opening. Stitch across top edge, folding over left end of band at finish of seam. Swing garment to inside position, right side up. Pull backhand out into position and 69 fold over just to cover seam. Turn in right end of band, and lower edge. Sew down right end and across lower edge to left opening. Turn in left end of band and sew up, then across top edge towards right. Near right end of band in- sert label under needle with size tab under its lower edge. Sew once around label and continue seam to end. 3. Heel bottom of pants : Put garment outside on machine right side up. Fold inside bottom corner of right leg over to out- side corner. Sew across from outside to fold, about %" away, turning no edges in. Repeat with left leg, sewing from fold to outside edge. 4. Sew cuffs to sleeves : Place sleeve of garment in machine wrong side up. Fold over hems for wrist opening from seam cut to end notch, sewing up sleeve on one hem and down sleeve on the other. Swing sleeve into outside position and lay cuff over it wrong side up with edges even. Sew across near the edge, folding over ends of cuffband even with sleeve at start and finish of seam. Swing sleeve to inside position right side up and pull cuff out from beneath into position. Fold over onto sleeve to cover seam. Turn in ends and edge of cuff and sew all around. Repeat with other sleeve. 5. Sew on collarband : Fold and mark middle and quarters of collarband by notch with scissors. Put garment outside on machine wrong side up. Lay collarband wrong side up over garment with edges even. Fold over ends even with front hems and sew across near the edge. Swing garment to in- side position right side up. Pull collarband from beneath out into position and fold back over to cover seam. Turn in ends and lower edge and sew all around. Auxiliary Information Trade* Terms: Materials garment (fronts and back sleeved), pants, backhand, label and size tab, cuffs, collarband, thread. Tools one-needle machine without folder attachments. Operations hemming, folding, heeling, cuffing, collaring. Location right and wrong side up, outside and inside on ma- chine, folding over, turning in, edging out, side openings, bottom of legs, top of pants, wrist, neck, front hems. Stock : Recognition all parts by name and shape. Working properties nothing additional. Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special. Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. PAYROLL, JOB -FELLER The feller girl operates a special two-needle machine with folder attachment. The machine head extends forward over the table so 70 that the closed in garment may pass back over the arm-like bed. The operation consists practically of joining a continuous felled seam from wrist opening to wrist opening, having passed along sleeves, outseams, inseams and feet. 1. Place end of right sleeve opening in folder. Stitch from wrist to armhole and down right side, joining front to back as far as bottom of right side opening. Repeat with left sleeve and side. With garment still in machine, lay left end of backhand of pants over belt on back, checking length by notches on front and back at bottom of left side opening. Sew from notch down left outseam, joining front and back of leg. Turning heel and toe parts right side in, continue seam around under arch of the foot to and along left inseam. Continue from crotch around right leg to notch at bottom of right side opening, checking right ends of backhand and belt when needle has reached about knee height on the up seam. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Materials garment in two parts, front and pants, thread. Tools two-needle, special machine with folder, scissors. Operations felling, joining. Location right and left wrists and side openings, ends of back- band and backbelt. Stock : Recognition body and pants, No. 60 white thread. Working properties nothing additional. Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. PAYROLL JOB EXAMINER The examiner inspects all previous workmanship on the sleeper. 1. Examine collar, front pleat and pocket, looking for run-offs, skip stitches, raw edges, tacking, and seeing that parts lie even. Check length of sides of front opening. A difference of 14" must go back. 2. Examine felling, backhand and backbelt for run-offs, skip stitches, raw edges, and see that parts lie even. Check length of side openings. 3. Examine cuffs and sleeves at shoulder for run-offs, skip titches, raw edges, and see that cuffs lie even. 4. Check for mixed colors or stripes, thin spots or holes in goods. Report defects to forelady, who repairs and marks such garments as seconds. 5. Report defective workmanship to forelady, who returns them to the operator responsible. 71 Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Materials child's sleeper, all parts by name. Tools none. Operations examining, inspecting, checking lengths. Location all parts by name. Special run-offs, skip stitches, raw edges, thin spots, straight seams, lie even, seconds. Stock : Recognition parts differing in color by shades and stripes, and differing in weight or thickness. Working properties none. Safety and Care of Tools : None. Drawing and Science : None. Mathematics: Measuring y" and less by eye. PAYROLL JOB T ACKER The tacker operates a special machine which has an automatic movable foot sliding over the main bed. The garment is slid into this foot, and when machine is set in operation it slides the goods under the needle three times sidewise, with a straight seam return- ing the fourth time with a staggered or sawtooth seam crossing the first three stitchings six or eight times. The length of this tacking can be adjusted, but it is usually set for %" or V . The head is set forward so that sleeves may be slid over the end of the arm bed. Record of work done is read from a registering counter linked with the machine so as to indicate the number of tackings made by oper- ator. 1. Tack end of felled seams at wrist openings. Tack end of felled seams at bottom of side openings. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Materials garment. Tools special tacking machine, scissors. Operations tacking. Location left and right wrist and side openings. Stock : Nothing special. Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. PAYROLL JOB BUTTONHOLER The special automatic machine used in making buttonholes, sews around the position with a pearl stitch, then cuts through the goods inside the stitching. Buttonholes are made in cuffs, front pleat and backhand. 1. Place outside end of cuff in machine and sew buttonhole. 2. Place outer pleat of front opening in machine, and sew as many 72 holes as required for size of garment, working from top of pleat to bottom and spacing by eye or chosen points on bed of machine. 3. Place backhand in machine and sew as many holes as required for size of garment, working end holes first, then intermedi- ate positions by eye or marks on machine. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms : Material garment, names of parts, thread. Tools special machine, scissors. Operations buttonholing. Location outer ends of right and left cuffs, front pleat, ends of backhand. Stock : No. 60 white thread. Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. Drawing and Science : None. Mathematics : Measuring position of holes by eye correct to 1/16" on cuffs, %" on pleat or backhand. PAYROLL JOB MARKER The marker locates position of buttons by marking with soft pen- cil through all buttonholes. 1. Lay garment flat with buttonholes and button sides in position and mark through middle of buttonholes. Auxiliary Information Trade 'Terms: Material garment. Tools soft black pencil. Operations laying flat, marking. Location cuffs, front pleats, backhand and backbelt. Stock : Nothing additional. Safety and Care of Tools : None. Drawing : Marking locations through holes. Science and Mathematics: None. PAYROLL JOB BUTTON SEWER The button sewer operates a special machine which holds the button in a foot which moves along with the cloth back and forth sidewise far enough to bring the two holes alternately under the needle. This oscillation keeps exact time with the movement of the needle. For four-hole buttons, a second adjustment adds a forward and back motion so that the needle registers over the four holes, first two diagonally till fully sewn, then the remaining two. The num- ber of threads sewn through is a matter of judgment of the operator 1. Lay buttons of required sizes conveniently on table of machine near foot. Put button in foot with holes square across. Place garment with mark underneath foot and release foot 73 treadle. Sew according; to judgment. Sew on buttons in following order: front pleat from bottom to top, one cuff, across backbelt or button stay, remaining cuff. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms: Materials garment, pearl buttons, thread. Tools special machine, scissors. Operations sewing on buttons, adjusting machines. Location machine bed, button foot, cuffs, front pleat, back belt. Stock : Recognition two or four-hole buttons, firsts or seconds, No. 60 white thread. Working properties nothing special. Safety : Second buttons have sharp or wane edges which fre- quently cut fingers. Care of Tools : Button must be set in fair or needle will strike "off" and break. Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. PAYROLL JOB BUTTONER The buttoner closes up all parts of the garment. There is no given series for buttoning operations which would be better than another. The girl adopts an order which is for herself most rapid and saving of effort. Auxiliary konwledge is so slight as to be almost negligible. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms : Materials garment, Tools none. Operations buttoning. Location front, cuffs, backhand. Stock : Nothing additional. Safety: Handle buttons so as to avoid cuts from sharp edges on seconds. Care of Tools : None. Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. The child's sleeper is completed so far as the Sleeping Wear De- partment is concerned when the buttoner has finished. The bundles are turned in to the desk girl for recording, and are afterwards sent down the chute to the Folding Department. Folding Department All garments from the Sleeping Wear and Children's Sleeper Department are delivered to the Folding Department in bundles of twenty-four. It is the work of this department to fold, press, sort and box the garments. In this particular department there is in- cluded also the product of branch factories which have made up 74 special lines such as men's fancy shirts and work shirts. The rangv 1 of garments folded and boxed covers men's night shirts, pajamas, pajunions, work shirts and fancy shirts ; ladies' nightgowns, pajamas, pajunions and pajunettes; and children's sleepers. A few children's rompers and ladies 'bloomers are produced, but these are only spe- cials. The standard lines are sleeping wear and shirts. A general view of the department is shown by the following schedule : No. | Payroll Job Work Jobs 1 1 1 2 l Folder Presser Fold nightshirts, pajamas, pajunions, pajunettes, night- gowns, sleepers, work shirts, fancy shirts. Press fancy shirts, work shirts, pajamas, pajunions and 3 | 4 I I Label girl Boxer Label boxes. Sort folded and pressed garments according to size and colors, tie in bundles and wrap, box and tie. DETAILED JOB ANALYSIS Since the purpose to be served by this study is to provide data which may be used by instructors particularly with girls who are employed in departmental jobs, a detailed analysis will cover only such employments as are suitable for girls, and will include only among these such as are concerned with the garments which were detailed in manufacture, namely, nightgowns, pajamas and sleepers. All garments are folded in the same general way, slight differences can be enlarged only on the job. PAYROLL JOB FOLDER This work is done exclusively by girls. The folding table is some- what higher than ordinary tables so that working conditions may be comfortable. The folder thinks of the left end as the top and gar- ments are always laid top to left. The surface of the table is marked crosswise from a top line to indicate the sizes of boxes into which garments are afterwards packed. Folds are then made within these particular lines. Small sleepers are folded extra small for packing two side by side in boxes. Folding-boards made of heavy millboard are used in some garments to control shape and size. The board is withdrawn before pinning has been completely finished. 1. Fold pajamas: Straighten out pants at top and with legs even. Lay on table with top at top line. Arrange and pin girdle with fringed ends out at middle of top end. Fold legs up until bottoms are past top line 8" or 10". Lift upper leg and fold underneath itself, its fold being even with top line, leaving end of lower leg extending out. Pin and place aside. Lay jacket front down, even with top line. Lay pants over jacket with tops even. Lay over the near and far sides and pin. Fold sleeves back out with cuffs extending over edge, and pin. Fold bottom up to required line on table and pin end in place. Fold remaining pant leg back over onto body and pin into position. Turn garment over and pin cuffs to front of jacket. This leaves garment so that front shows jacket and style of cuffs, and label on inside of back yoke, while back shows ends of girdle (plain or fringed) and 'style of pants bottom plain, or looped and buttoned. 2. Fold sleeper : a. Large sized garment Lay face or front up, with top at top line. Fold sleeves across breast. Fold feet up to re- quired folding line on table. Fold over again even with top. Turn garment over and pin at edges. b. Small sized garment Lay face up. Lap over sides to near middle and fold sleeves in to neck edge and then over and down with cuffs lying side by side. Fold bottom to mark. Fold over once again to top. Turn garment over and pin at edges. Both of these folds show label on outside near right end of backhand. 3. Fold nightgown: Lay garment face down. Fold over sides part way to middle. Re-fold edges back over so as to get sleeves outside side lines. Fold bottom up until at required mark on table. Fold over once again to top. Pin parts to- gether. Turn garment over and pin sleeve cuffs across front of gown. This shows label on inside of back yoke, and style of cuffs, yoke, and front pleat. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms : Materials pajamas, sleepers, nightgowns. ' Tools folding-boards, pins. Operations folding, lapping over, pinning. Location top line en table, various folding lines on table, front of garment up or down on table, near side and far sides of garment as it lies on table, fold under, fold over, fold up (from right to left or top end). Stock : Nothing special. Safety and Care of Tools : None. Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None. PAYROLL JOB PRESSER The pressing of garments varies considerably. Some are partly pressed before folding, and finished afterwards, others are not pressed until after folding, and some not at all. The work being relatively heavy, it is not given to young girls, but is given to men and women who are physically able to work without undue fatigue. Two types of irons are used, one being gas heated, and the other electrically heated. The latter is the type commonly used in the home, and is used by the women pressers. The gas heated iron also 76 has steam connection to moisten the garment as it is ironed. This iron is considerably heavier and is used exclusively by men. Xo detailed analysis is made of this job because girls arc not except in exceptional cases given this work to do. PAYROLL JOB LABEL GIRL The duties in this are two-fold according as the garments are to be enclosed in cardboard boxes or wrapped in paper bundles. 1. Prepare Avrappers: Tear off paper from roll in size according to descriptive sheet specification for particular lot number. Stick gummed label on each sheet in such position that it will show later on wrapped bundle just at the end of the bundle. "2. Prepare boxes : Consult descriptive sheet for size and kind of box for particular lot number. Count out number of boxes required. Stick labels on boxes or covers according to kind. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms : Materials wrapping paper, boxes, labels. Tools paste and brush. Operations tearing off, labeling, counting out. Location position of label on sheet for various sized bundles. label on end of box or cover according to its style or size, stock-piles of empty boxes by sizes, and lot numbers. Stock : Recognition know empties by description on sheet, know labels by stamped sizes. Safety : Xone. Care of Tools : Xothing special. Drawing and Science : None. Mathematics: Figuring number of boxes needed for particular lot number. Counting out boxes as tied in bundles of 3's, 4's, 6's, or more. PAYROLL JOB BOXER The boxers have two main work jobs, one boxing and the other bundling, that is wrapping in paper bound bundles instead of in boxes. 1. Sorting: Sort garments into piles according to sizes, and also to colors in goods, or color of trimmings. Collect from piles in dozens, or in fractions of a dozen as 3/12, 4/12 or 6/12 dozen, having same size but assorted colors. 2. Bundling: Check sizes, style and quantity on garment labels with those on wrappers. Lay wrappers on table, labels down. Tie bundles. Place bundle of garments in position. AVrap and tie. Stack on truck. 3. Boxing : Check sizes, style and quantity on garment label with 77 those on box. Place sorted bundles in box. Put on lid and tie box. (In higher priced garments and all summer lines the boxes are lined with special tissue paper carrying the firm trade mark, before bundles are placed in the boxes. Auxiliary Information Trade Terms : Materials garments, wrappers, boxes, twine, lining tissue paper. Tools Scissors. Operations checking, tying, wrapping, laying in boxes, stack- ing on truck. Location wrappers with label side down. Stock : Recognition folded garments by name and shape. Safety and Care of Tools : None. Drawing and Science : None. Mathematics : Estimating length of twine correct to 6" for com- pleting tied bundles, counting out garments in dozens or fractions of a dozen. After bundles and boxes have been tied and stacked on the trucks by the folding department, the manufacturing has been completed. They are then sent to the Stock Room. VII. USE OF INSTRUCTION SHEETS Instruction is measured as to its success by what the learner can do as a result of it. Good instruction is also a cost cutting factor in the degree that it is accomplished in the shortest possible time and with the elimination of unnecessary effort on the part of instructor and learner. This means the use of any effective teaching devices which can be worked up. Good instruction sheets prepared in ad- vance save considerable time, and make possible a better selection, arrangement and presentation of subject matter. The sheet is not a substitute for personal instruction. It is a supplement to it. It is the lesson summary in permanent form with some test exercises attached, and is intended to be handed to the learner only after a personally conducted lesson has been put over. The following sample instruction sheet has been prepared to illus- trate what can be done in part-time and vestibule schools by means of such a device. The vestibule school may not make use of all the material which appears on these sheets because its objective is not so inclusive as the public part-time school objective, but the objective of the vestibule school should be inclusive of much more than it has been in the past, if it is to accomplish results that employers expect of it. It will be rightly judged that the sample is somewhat long. The fact is that such a lesson sheet would be fitted in among others ahead of and following it, so that some questions appearing here might appear with equal effectiveness on other sheets. Their presence 78 here in such numbers is rather to indicate the possibilities than to suggest exactly what might appear on this instruction sheet when placed among others in service. It is necessary, however, to have "repeat" questions frequently. Charting the operations will lead to some study of their efficiency, and should produce frequent revisions by the up-to-date instructor, showing shortened time or reduced number of motions. The result, will be standardized operation sheets. Under the heading of related instruction the purpose is to start the new girl thinking about her job, as her own, and also in relation to the whole product. It is evident that many more questions could be added. The reference to a drawing clears up points of doubt, and also serves as a record of things talked about which might otherwise slip by. Have the learner draw her own at times. The mathematics will bring the question of relative speed to the girl's attention at the start and will give her a means of computing her attainment from day to day.* It will also reveal the fact that the company is losing money in proportion as she is paid a bonus. In the early training period the company loses most, in the later train- ing period she herself loses most by not being up to average speed. In the part-time school there should be as much exercise work in English as can be worked in about the job which is to be, or has been done. These will suggest themselves to every interested teacher. In the vestibule school it is not expected that such exercises would be carried through but it is advisable that the instruction suggested by these exercises be given. Instruction sheets ought to be prepared in advance of the lesson to be taught, and carefully checked through with someone in the employ of the company competent to pass authentic judgment upon them. The checking of these in preparation is a real coordinating duty of the part-time school instructor. When so passed, they should be stencilled and sufficient copies run off to serve the purpose of the school for some time in advance. That is, there should be available a copy to give to each learner, so that she has at the end some real reference material to use when needed. Once the labor of preparing these has been expended, the instructional job of the teacher will be considerably lightened in the checking and follow-up part of her duties particularly. Instructors will find in sections IV, V and VI of this analysis a large field for suggestive questions. So large in fact is it that the problem of the teacher will be not, what can I find to put in, but rather what shall I leave out ? It is hoped that with such suggestive material at hand for use of instructors in the needle trade, and an assurance that these instructors can use it advantageously, the labor of compiling it will have been a service worth rendering to the cause of vocational education. 70 Part-Time Trade Preparatory School Job Instruction Sheet Xeedle Trade Lesson Job Piece two dozen pairs of men's pa jama jacket sleeves. Enlarged view of seam at XY ^ I' (c) (b) Operations Note : Instructor will have given instruction on and demonstrated the use and care of machine in previous lessons, so that learner knows the machine and can operate it in running a straight row of stitching. 1. Open bundle and check edges A and B of sleeve-pieces. 2. Lay bundle of larger pieces in convenient position on lap, and the other at left side of machine on top of table, having the right side of both bundles up. 3. Place smaller piece outside on machine right side up, and enter shoulder end of joining edge (if right sleeve) in lower scroll of folder. (If left sleeve, insert cuff end in scroll.) Place larger piece inside on machine right side up, and insert corresponding end of joining edge in upper scroll of folder. Start machine, and guide pieces through to end of seam. Repeat operations 3, 4 and 5 with next on top of bundles. (It will be the mate of the first sleeve to form the pair, and will be run through from opposite end.) Continue operations 3, 4, 5 and 6 until bundle is all through. 4. 80 8. Pull mass from behind machine, snipping threads connecting each sleeve, trimming shoulder end of seam when necessary, and laying sleeves in flat bundle (by pairs) on lap as trimmed. 9. Tie bundle, and mark tag with operator's number. Related Instruction Shop Knowledge 1. The seam should be so placed as to lie on the back of the sleeve when sewn into jacket, and lap of seam should face towards the back. What reasons can you give for this .' 2. Why should the smaller pieces be placed to the left of the machine head and the larger pieces in the operator's lap .' 3. Why check the A and B edges of the first two pieces .' 4. Would it make any difference to you if you performed opera- tion 4 before doing operation 3.' If so, what and why .' 5. Why do you retard the lower or outside piece, and allow the upper to feed through freely ? 6. What is the name of the goods you are using? Is it cotton, silk, linen or wool? Is the pattern woven into or printed onto it? 7. Why is it suitable for the purpose for which it is used ? Why do you think the purchasing department selected it ? 8. In certain sizes of garments the sleeves may be cut with half of the bundle in one-piece sleeves, and the other half in two pieces. How do you account for it ? 9. What length of stitch are you using? Why? What size of thread ? 10. To whom will the sleeves go after this job ? What will be done to them then? Should the trimming operation belong to this job or the next ? Why ? Drawing 1. In figure (a) of the drawing, what do dash lines "C" repre- . sent ? Are there any such lines on the cloth ? 2. Indicate the position of the "C" lines in figure (c). In figure (b). Where are these places on the scrolls of the folder? 3. Is figure (b) a sketch of a right or a left sleeve? Why? 4. What do the two vertical lines in figure (c) mean ? 5. What difference do you find in starting the shoulder end from that of starting the cuff end into the scrolls of the folder? Which is the easier ? Why ? Mathematics 1. Make a record of the time you start and finish the bundle. Subtract to find the time required. How many bundles per day could you run at this rate ? 2. If the piece-rate is 5 cents per dozen, how much would you earn per day of factory length ? Per week of factory length ? 81 3. How many bundles would you have to do in a day to earn the average daily wage of $2.00? 4. What fraction represents your daily rate in bundles compared with the average daily rate? 5. Which one of the following fractions comes nearest to repre- senting your efficiency: V 8 , 14, %, l /2, %, 3 /4, 7s? What would it be in per cent ? 6. How much are you being paid for this week's work? If your earnings are indicated by your answer to question 2, how much is the company "out" because you are only learning how to earn? How much are you yourself "out" because you are not yet up to the average ? 7. If you spoiled six pairs of sleeves irretrievably, and had the cost of the goods deducted from your pay, how much would you lose if the goods cost 10^ cents per yard of 36" width, assuming that the pieces were cut side by side in the most economical arrangement ? English 1. Write in your notebook the meaning of the following terms: sleeve-pieces folder joining edge scroll shoulder end presser foot seam faces back tension cambric retard 2. Read from some selected source about the manufacture of cambric. 3. Write from memory a half page or more telling how it is made. 82 INDEX PAGI: Section I. Introduction 3 Section II. Methods of Preparatory Training 4 1. Public part-time preparatory school. 2. Factory vestibule school. Section III. Vocational Teaching Objectives 7 Section IV. General Instructional Content 8 1. The Local Company. 2. Manufacturing costs. 3. Markets and competition. 4. Business turnover. Section V. Common Factory Knowledge 1. The local organization for production. 2. Materials used in factory production. 3. Equipment. a. Construction, operation and care of machines. b. Cafeteria and recreation rooms. 4. Routing system. 5. Card and ticket systems. 6. Employment and training. Section VI. Detailed Analysis of Certain Departments 1. Overall. 2. Sleeping-wear. 3. Children's sleeper. 4. Folding. Section VII. Use of Job Instruction Sheds. . SOUTHER* BRANCH OF CALIFORNIA, CALIF. UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. Form L9-75m-7,'61(01437s4)444 THE Li Bit AK I UNIVERSITY OP C/% IFORN14 LOS A'NGELES 713 Lynn, L99o Outlines of in- struction in the needle-working 1 trade TT 713 L99o