BAEDEKER'S GUIDE BOOKS. GREAtteRlTAlN, widi 10 Maps, 'M) Plans, and a Panorama. Fourth Eilitiou. 1897, 10 marks. LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS, with 3 Maps and 20 Plans. Twelfth Editiou. I'JOJ. G marks. THE UNITED STATES, with an Excursion into Mexico. With ia.Tlt.\ps ami 24 Pfaftst Second Edition. 1899. 12 marks. THE DOMINIO^^ OF CANADA, with Newfoundland and ALASKA,-With 10 Maps and 7 Plans. Second Editiou. 1900. 5 marks. ELGIUM AND HOLLAND, witli 14 Maps and 22 Plans. Twelfth Editiou. 1897. 6 marks. THE RHINE from Rotterdam to Constance, with 45 Maps and 2J Plans. Fourteenth Edition. 1900. 7 marks. NORTHERN GERMANY, with 34 Maps and G5 Plans. Thirteenth Edition. ICOO. 8 marks. SOUTHERN GERMANY, with IG Maps and 15 Plans. Ei'.;hth Edition. 1895. 5 marks. AUSTRIA, with 3U Maps and 36 Plans. Ninth Edition. 1900. 8 marks. THE EASTERN ALPS, with 47 Maps, 10 Plans, and 7 Pano- ramas. Ninth Edition. 1899. 10 marks. NORTHERN FRANCE, with 10 Maps and 34 Plans. Third Edition. 1899. 7 marks. SOUTH-EASTERN FRANCE, with 15 Maps, 14 Plans and a Panorama. Third Edition. 1898. 5 marks. SOUTH-WESTERN FRANCE, with 10 Maps and 13 Plans. Second Edition. 1895. 5 marks. GREECE, with 8 Maps and 15 Plans. Second Edition. 1894. 8 marks. NORTHERN ITALY, including Leghorn, Florence, Ra- venna, with 25 Maps and 35 Plans. Eleventh Edition. 1899. 8 marks. CENTRAL ITALY and ROME, with 1 1 Maps, 46 Plans, and a Panorama of Rome. Thirteenth Edition. 1900. 7 marks 50 pf. SOUTHERN ITALY, SICILY, etc., with 28 Maps and 19 Plans. Ttiirteenth Edition. 1900. 6 marks. NORWAY, SWEDEN, and DENMARK, with 32 Maps, 21 Plans, and 3 Panoramas. Seventh Edition. 1899. 10 marks. PARIS .\ND ITS ENVIRONS, wlth Routes from London to Paris, with 12 Maps and 3G Plans. F.mrteer th Edition. 1900. 6 marks. SPAIN AND PORTUGAL, with 6 Maps and 46 Plans. 1898. 16 marks. SWITZERLAND, with 54 Maps, 12 Plans, and 12 Panoramas. Eighteenth Edition. 1899. 8 marks. EGYPT, AND Nubia as far as the Second Cataract, with 22 Maps, 55 Plans, and 66 Views and Vignettes. Fourth Edition. 1898. 15 marks. PALESTINE AND SYRIA, with 20 Maps, 48 Plans, and a Panorama of Jerusalem. Third Edition. 1898. 12 marks. CONVERSATION DICTIONARY, in four languages. 3 marks. MANUAL OF CONVERSATION, in four languages. 3 marks. THE LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES BELGIUM AND HOLLAND. MONEY-TABLE. (Comp. pp. xi, xxi.) English Dutch. Belgian. German. American. 1 t. $. d. fl- cents. /r. ctni. mark. VfQ- dollar. cent. 1 ~ 12 25 20 4 76 19 11 40 23 75 19 — 4 53 ~ 18 _ 10 80 22 50 18 — 4 29 17 _ 10 20 21 25 17 — 4 5 ~ 16 9 60 20 16 — 3 81 15 _ 9 18 75 15 — 3 57 _ 14 _ 8 40 17 50 14 — 3 34 _ 13 7 80 16 25 13 3 10 12 7 20 15 — 12 — 2 86 _ 11 6 60 13 75 11 2 62 ~ 10 6 12 50 10 — 2 38 9 _ 5 40 11 25 9 _ 2 14 _ 8 4 80 10 — 8 — 1 91 7 4 20 8 75 7 — 1 67 6 __ 3 60 7 50 6 — 1 43 _ 5 _ 3 6 25 5 — 1 19 ~ 4 ~ 2 40 5 4 — 95 3 1 80 3 75 3 — — 71 ~ 2 1 20 2 50 2 — 48 1 81 ,'2 1 • 2 15 1 70 — 41 _ 1 7' 96 2 — 60 — 38 _ 1 60 1 25 1 — — 24 9^'^ _ 48 1 — — 80 — 19 45 94 — 75 — 18 8 40 83 66 16 _ 7 _ 35 73 — 58 — 14 _ 6 _ 30 _ 62 — 50 — 12 ~ 5 25 52 41 10 _ 4 _ 20 42 _ 33 — 8 _ _ 3 _ 15 _ 31 — 25 — 6 2 10 21 — 16 — 4 — — 1 — 5 — 10 — 8 — 2 LINEAR MEASURES. Metres Parisian Prussian Viennese English (Dutch Ells). Feet. Feet. Feet. Feet. 1 3,08 3,19 3,16 3,28 2 6,16 6,37 6,33 6,56 3 •I '54 9,56 9,49 9,84 4 12,'3l 12,74 12,65 13,12 5 1539 15,93 15,82 16,40 6 18,47 19,12 18,98 1969 7 21,55 22,30 22,15 22,97 8 24,G3 25,49 25,31 26 25 9 27,71 28,68 28,47 29,53 10 30,78 31,86 31,64 32,81 20 61,57 63 72 63,27 65,62 30 92,:35 95,59 94,91 98,43 40 123,14 127,45 126,55 131,24 50 153,92 159.31 158,19 164,04 60 iai,71 191,17 189,82 196,85 70 215,49 223,03 221,46 229 66 80 246,28 2ai,90 253,10 262,47 90 277,06 286,76 2^,74 295,28 100 307,84 318.62 316,37 328,09 30' M IE m B u I^ © E B BELaiUM AND HOLLAND INCLUDING THE aEAND-DUCHY OF LUXEMBOUEG HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS BY K. BAEDEKER WITH 14 MAPS AND 21 PLANS TWELFTH EDITION, REVISED AND AUGMENTED LEIPSIG : KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER. 1897 All rights reserved "Go, little book, God send thee good passage, And specially let this be thy prayere Unto them all that thee will read or hear, Where thou art wrong, after their help to call, Thee to correct in any part or all." THE LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES STACK AHNSC PEEFACE. S3/3 I??7 The Handbook for Belgium and Holland, which is now issued for the twelfth time and corresponds with the twenty-first German edition and the sixteenth French, is designed to assist the traveller in planning his tour and disposing of his time to the best advantage; to supply him with a few remarks on the progress of civilisation and art in these interesting countries ; to render him as far as possible independent of the services of hotel-keepers, commission- naires, guides, and other members of the same fraternity; and thus to enable him to derive the greatest possible amount of pleasure and instruction from his tour. The Handbook has been compiled almost entirely from the Editor's personal observation, and most of the country described has been repeatedly explored by him with a view to procure the latest possible information ; but, as many of the data in the Handbook refer to matters that are constantly undergoing alteration, he will highly appreciate any cor- rections or suggestions with which travellers may favour him. Those already received, which in many instances have proved most useful, he gratefully acknowledges. The introductory article on art has been contributed by Professor Anton Springer of Leipsic, and has been adapted for the use of English travellers with the kind assistance of Mr. J, A. Crowe, author of 'The Early Flemish Painters'. Other valuable remarks on many of the principal works of art mentioned in the Handbook are also from Professor Springer's pen. The arrangement of the pictures in some of the Belgian galleries is frequently changed; but, as a general rule, the data afforded by the Handbook will enable the traveller to dispense with the costly and often bewildering catalogues. Yi PREFACE. fte Maps and Plans, on which the utmost care has been bestowed, will prove of material service to the tra- veller when threading his way through the intricacies of the curious mediaeval cities of Belgium, or when entangled in the network of railways, rivers, and canals with which the Netherlands are overspread. Heights and Distances are given in English measure- ment. A kilometre is approximately = s/g Engl, mile ; 8 kil. = 5 M. The Populations are stated in accordance with the most recent census. Hotels. The Editor has endeavoured to enumerate not only the first-class hotels, but also others of more modest pretensions, which may be safely selected by the 'voyageur en gargon', with little sacrifice of comfort and considerable saving of expenditure. The hotels which the Editor has reason to believe good of their class are distinguished by an asterisk, but he does not doubt that equal excellence may often be found in hotels that are unstarred and even unmentioned. The average charges and prices stated in the Handbook, although constantly tending to rise, will enable the traveller to form some idea of his probable expenditure. To hotel-proprietors, tradesmen, and others the Editor begs to intimate that a character for fair dealing and cour- tesy towards travellers forms the sole passport to his com- mendation, and that advertisements of every kind are strict- ly excluded from his Handbooks. Abbreviations. R. = Room. ft. = English foot. B. = Breakfast. N. = North, northern, etc D. = Dinner. S. = South, etc. A. = Attendance. E. = East, etc. L. = Light. W. = West, etc. M. = English mile. r. = right. S. = Supper. I. = left. dej. = Dejeuner (luncheon). hr. = hour. The letter d with a date, after the name of a person, indicates the year of his death. The number of feet given after the name of a place shows its height ahove the sea-level. The number of miles placed before the principal places on railway-routes and high-roads generally indicates their distance from the starting-point of the route. Asterisks are used as marks of commendation. CONTENTS. Introduction. A. Belgium. Page I. Season and Plan of Tonr xi 11. Money and Trayelling Expenses xi III. Passports. Custom House xii IV. Language xiii V. Churches, Picture Galleries, and Collections ... xv VI. Railways xv VII. Post and Telegraph Offices xvl VIII. History and Statistics xvi B. Holland. I. Plan of Tour xxi II. Money and Travelling Expenses xxi III. Passports. Custom House xxii IV. Language xxii V. Churches, Picture Galleries, and Collections . . . xxvi VI. Railways xxvi VII. Post and Telegraph Offices xxvi VIII. Dutch Characteristics xxvi IX. History and Statistics xxxi Historical Sketch of Art in the Netherlands hy Professor Springer xxxvi Route Belgium. Page 1. From London to Ostend 1 Slykens. Mariakerke. Middelkerke. Westende, 6. — Oost- Duinkerke. La Panne, 7. 2. Blankenherghe and Heyst 7 Lisseweghe. From Blankenberghe to Ostend by the coast, 8. — From Heyst to Bruges. Knokke. Sluis, 9. 3. From Ostend to Brussels via Bruges and Ghent . . . . 10 From Bruges to Blankenberghe and Heyst, 10. — From Ghent to Terneuzen \ to Bruges via Eecloo, 10. — From Alost to Antwerp, 11. 4. Bruges 11 Damme, 28. 5. The Railways of S.W. Flanders 29 1. From Ostend to Ypres 29 From Ypres to Poperinghe and Hazebrouck, 31. 2. From Ghent to Dunkirk via Lichtervelde . ... 32 From Diksmuide to Nieuport, 32. 3. From Bruges to Courtrai 34 From Roulers to Ypres aud to Menin, 34. Yill CONTENTS. Route Page 6. From Brussels to Courtrai and Ypres 34 From Oudenaarde to Deynze, 36. 7. Ghent 36 The Castle of Oydonck, 56. 8. From Ghent to Courtrai and Tournai 56 From Ghent to Oudenaarde, Leuze, and Mons, 56. — From Mouscron to LDle, 58. 9. Tournai 59 10. From Ghent to Antwerp 63 o. State Railway via Dendermonde and Puers ... 63 b. Waasland Railway 63 11. From London to Brussels via Calais 65 From Tournai to Mons ; to Sotteghem, 67. — From Den- derleeuw to Grammont, Ath, and Jurbise, 68. — From Ath to Blaton, 68. — From Enghien to Courtrai, 69. 12. Brussels 70 a. The Upper Town : Northern Part, 78. — b. The Royal Museums and Library, 84. — c. The Upper Town: Southern Part, 98. — d. The Lower Town: Central Part, 101. — e. The Lower Town: Inner Boulevards, 106. — f. The Outer Boulevards, 108. — g. The New Quarters of the Town to the E. , 110. — h. Environs of Brussels: Laeken, Bois de la Cambre, 115. 13. From Brussels to Charlerol via Luttre 117 Battle Field of Waterloo, 117. 14. From Brussels to Antwerp via Malines 132 From Malines to Louvain; to Ghent; to St. Nicolas and Terneuzen , 136. — From Contich to Turnhout , 136. 15. Antwerp 137 a. The Place Verte and the Older Quarters of the Town, 143. — b. The South -Western Quarters of the Town and the Museum, 150. — c. The Eastern Quarters of the Town and the Avenues, 166. — d. The Park and the Zoological Garden, 171. — e. The Bank of the Schelde and the Docks, 173. — Hoogstraten, 175. 16. From Antwerp to Rotterdam 175 a. Railway Journey 175 b. Steamboat Journey 176 17. From Antwerp to Aix-la-Chapelle via Maastricht . . . 178 Maaseyck, 179. — Environs of Valkenburg, 180. 18. From Antwerp to Miinchen-Gladbach 181 19. From Brussels to Braine-le-Comte and Mons . . . 182 From Lembecq to Erquelinnes and Chimay, 182. — From Mons to Paris i to Charleroi, 185. 20. From Ghent to Charleroi and Namur via Braine-le-Comte 185 From Manage to Mons and to Wavre. Quatrebras, 186. — From Charleroi to Vireux. From Chatelineau to Givet, 188. — From Tamines to Fleurus ; to Dinant, 188. — From Namur to Bois de Villers via Malonne, 191. 21. From Namur to Dinant and Givet 192 From Givet to Sedan, 195. 22. From Dinant to Jemelle. Han-sur-Lesse 195 23. From Brussels to Luxembourg via Namur 197 From Libramont to Gouvy, 199. — From Arlon to Longwy and to Gedinne, 200. CONTENTS. ix Route Page 24. From Brussels to Lifege via Louvain 200 From Tirlemont to Diest; to Tongresj and to Namur, 201. — From Landen to Hasselt; to Gembloux, 202. 25. Louvain 203 The Abbaye du Pare, 207. 26. From Louvain to Charleroi 208 27. Liege and Seraing 209 28. From Liege to Luxembourg vi& Rivage and Trois-Ponts or via Jemelle 219 29. From Liege to Maastricht 224 30. From Liege to Namur 227 From Huy to Landen and to Ciney, 229. 31. From Liege to Aix-la-Chapelle 231 From Verviers to Liege via Herve, 233. — The Barrage de la Gileppe, 283. 32. From Pepinster to Trois-Vierges (Luxembourg). Spa . 234 Excursions from Spa. Baraque Michel. Coo. Remouchamps, 237. — From Stavelot to Malmedy, 238. Luxembourg. 33. From Trois-Vierges to Luxembourg . 239 From Kautenbach to Oberwiltz and Esch an der Sauer, 240. — From Kruchten to Larochette, 241. — From Larochette to Echternach. Befort. Berdorf, 242. — Valley of the Eisch. Valley of the Mamer, 243. — From Luxembourg to Remich, 245. 34. From Luxembourg to Wasserbillig via Diekirch and Echternach 245 Excursions from Diekirch. Valley of the Our. Vianden,246. 35. From Luxembourg to Treves 248 Holland. 36. From Flushing to Breda 249 DombuTg. Veere, 251. 37. Rotterdam 252 38. From Rotterdam to the Hague , Leyden, Haarlem, and Amsterdam 262 From Schiedam to Hoek van Holland, 262. — From Ley- den to Woerden, 265. 39. The Hague 265 40. Scheveningen 285 41. Leyden 288 Noordwyk aan Zee. Katwyk aan Zee, 294. 42. Haarlem 295 Zandvoort, 302. 43. Amsterdam 303 Environs of Amsterdam, 344. 44. From Amsterdam and Haarlem to the Helder. North Holland 347 Wyk aan Zee, 348. — Egmond, 349. X CONTENTS. Route P".?c 45. From Amsterdam to Enkhuizen and Stavoren .... 351 46. From Stavoren (Amsterdam) to Leeuwarden and Groningen 352 Bolsward, 353. 47. From Amsterdam or Utrecht to Leeuwarden and Groningen 3o5 From Zwolle to Dieren. Het Loo, 356. — From Zwolle to Kampen, 356. — From Groningen to Delfzyl. Rode- school. ScMermonnik-Oog, 359. 48. From Groningen to Bremen 359 49. From Amsterdam via Deventer and from Ariihem via Zntphen to Salzbergen-Rheine 360 From Deventer to Zwolle, 361. — From Zutphen to Win- tergwyk, 362. 50. From Amsterdam to Utrecht 363 a. Via Breukelen, 363. — "b. Via Hilversum, 363. 51. From Rotterdam to Utrecht and Amsterdam via Gouda . 364 From Gouda to the Hague, 365. 52. From Liege to Utrecht 367 Heeswyk. From S'Hertogenbosch to Lage-Zwaluwe, 367. 53. Utrecht 368 54. From Utrecht and Arnhem to Cologne via Emmerich and Oherhausen 374 55. From Cologne to Amsterdam and Rotterdam (Hoek van Holland) via Cleve and Nymegen 378 From Arnhem to Tilburg via Nymegen and S'Hertogen- bosch, 333. 66. From Maastricht to Nymegen 383 57. From Cologne to Rotterdam via Venlo 384 List of Artists 389 Index 403 Maps. 1. General Map of Belgium: before the title-page. 2. Map of the Enviuons of Ostend and Bruges: p. 7. 3. Map of the Environs of Brussels: p. 116. 4. Map of the Battle Field of Waterloo : p. 117. 5. M:ip of the Meuse from Givet to LiEge: p. 191. 6. Map of the Environs of Rochefort and Han-sur-Lesse : p. 196. 7. Map of the Environs of Maastricht : p. 225. 8. Map of the Environs of Spa: between pp. 234, 235. 9. Map of the Gband-ducht of Luxembourg •■, between pp. 238, 239. 10. Map of the Environs of the Hague : p. 285. 11. Map of the Environs of Amsterdam : p. 344. 12. Map of the Environs of Arnhem: p. 376. 13. Map of the Environs of Nymegen: p. 380. 14. General Map of Holland : after the Index. Flans of Towns. Amsterdam fp. 303), Antwerp (p. 137; inner town, p. 144), Bruges (p. 11), Brussels (p. 70), Delft (p. 262), Ghent (p. 36; inner town, p. 37), Groningen (p. 358), Haarlem (p. 296), The Hague (p. 284), Leyden (p. 288), Liege (p. 209), Lille (p. 65),Louvain (p. 203), Luxembourg (p. 243), Malines (p. 133), Namur (p. 190), Ostend (p. 6), Rotterdam (p. 252), Tournai fp. 59), Utrecht (p. 368). BELGIUM. I. Season and Flan of Tour. The works of the painter and the architect are Belgium's great attractions ; and as a large proportion of the traveller's time will therefore probahly be spent in the cities and larger towns , he is recommended to select the spring or autumn in preference to the summer for his tour. At the same time, many delightful spots for spending the summer may be found on the banks of the Meuse, or in the enyirons of Spa. The following tour, beginning at Ostend and terminating at Antwerp, will serve to convey an idea of the time requisite for a glimpse at the chief attractions of Belgium. Travellers entering Belgium from France, Holland, or Germany, will find no difficulty in planning other tours with the aid of the map. Ostend and Bruges IV2 day Ghent 1 „ Courtrai, Ypres, Tournai, Mons 2V2-3 ,, Namur, Valley of the Meuse 1 ,, Liege, Maastricht, and the Petersberg 1 - I1/2 ,, Louvain and Brussels S'/a „ Waterloo 1 „ Malines V^ >> Antwerp .1-2 „ 13- 15 days. The Handbook renders the services of commissionnaires and guides entirely superfluous (half-a-day 2-3, whole day 4-5 fr.), and the traveller is particularly cautioned against employing those of an inferior class by whom he is importuned in the streets. II. Money and Travelling Expenses. Money. The Monetary System of France was introduced into Belgium in 1833 ; and by the Convention of Paris of 1865 Belgium belongs to a monetary league with France, Switzerland, and Italy. One franc, 100 centimes, 80 German pfennigs, 50 Austrian kreu- zers, 47 Dutch cents, 20 American cents, and 9^/4 pence are all nearly equivalent (see the money-table at the beginning of the book). The coins in common circulation are French Napoleons (20 fr.) in gold; 5, 2V2, 1, V2, and 1/5 fr- pieces in silver; 10, 5, 2, 1 c. in copper; 20, 10, 5 c. in nickel. Swiss coins with the sitting figure of Helvetia, Italian coins (except the 5 fr. pieces), French xii Expenses. BELGIUM. coins with the figure of the Republic on the face and the crowned Napoleon III. at the back, Greek and Papal coins should be refused. English and French banknotes and English gold are received at all the principal towns, hotels, and railway-stations at their full value (li. = 25 fr.). Belgian notes from 20 to 1000 fr. are current in all parts of Belgium, but do not realise their full value in France or else- where. English circular notes are recommended for the transport of large sums, in preference to banknotes or gold, as they always rea- lise a favourable exchange, and as, if lost, their value is recoverable. Money should not be changed except at the shops of the larger and more respectable money-changers; the small dealers seldom give the due rate of exchange. Expenses. Hotels of the highest class are somewhat expensive at Brussels and the principal Belgian watering-places , but in most other parts of the country they will be found cheaper than in Eng- land. It is prudent to enquire the charges in advance. An inclusive 'pension' price may be generally be obtained if the traveller intends to remain for some time. The average charges in the flrst-class hotels are as follows: bed from 2-3 fr., coffee and rolls I-IV2 f^., dinner 3-5 fr. , 1/2 bottle of Bordeaux IV2-2 fr. attendance 1 fr. The table d'hote dinner in the larger towns is generally between 5 and 7p.m. Supper may be ordered at a fixed charge of 2 fr. or upwards. The charges at hotels of the second class are about one-third lower, while the accommodation is sometimes quite as good, although less pretending. Hotel-expenses therefore need not exceed 10-15 fr. per day ; the fees payable at picture-galleries, museums, and churches amount to 3-4 fr. per day, and travelling expenses to 8-10 fr. ; so that most travellers should be prepared for a daily expenditure of at least 25-30 fr. each. On the other hand the 'voyageur en garden', the artist, the student, and the pedestrian may easily reduce their expenditure to half that sum without much diminution of comfort. in. Passports. Custom House. Passports are now dispensed with in Belgium, but they are frequently useful in proving the traveller's identity, procuring ad- mission to collections, and in obtaining delivery of registered letters. Foreign Office passports may be obtained in London tbrougb Lee & Carter, 440 West Strand; E. Stanford, 55 Charing Cross; W. J. Adams, 59 Fleet St.; or C. Smith & Son, 63 Charing Cross (charge '2s.-, agent's fee is. Qd.). Custom House formalities are generally very lenient. The trav- eller should always, if possible, superintend the examination of his luggage in person. In crossing a frontier even the smaller articles of luggage usually kept in the railway carriage have to be submitted to inspection. The traveller is usually allowed a small supply of tobacco or cigars for personal use duty free, but he should declare it to the custom-house officers. BELGIUM. Language. xiii IV. Language. Tte population of Belgium is mainly divided between two cMef races : tlie Walloons almost exclusively confined to the basin of the Mouse or Maas, and the Flemings (about five-eighths of the whole) in the basin of the Scheldt. The boundary between the Walloon and Flemish languages is a tolerably-straight line drawn from Liege southwards past Brussels to Calais , Walloon being spoken in a few isolated districts to the N., and Flemish here and there to the S. of the line. Brussels itself is divided (comp. p. 76). f In spite of the efforts of the Flemish population (p. xiv), French is still the language of the government, the army , of most of the newspapers, of public traffic, of scientific literature, and indeed, of all the upper classes, as it has been since the time of the crusades. The Walloon language, which resembles a very corrupt dialect of French, or roucM fran^ais as it is termed by the French, is an early French (Romanic) patois, with Celtic and Teutonic ele- ments, occurring occasionally in ancient documents and poems, and not entirely without its literature, but almost as unin- telligible to a Frenchman as to an Englishman or a German. The learned Florentine Guicciardini (d. 1589), who as Tuscan ambassador resided for several years in the Netherlands, describes the Walloon language, in his Descriptio toiius Belgii, as ^sermo com- muniter Gallicus ,• sed quia Galliam inter atque Germaniam positi, corruptus valde et perabsurdus\ The following popular rhymes from the '■Almanack par maitre Matthieu LaensbergW will serve as a specimen of the language : January : II gna pu (ThroMi ki d'poussir. I II y a plus de brouillard que de pous- I siere. February : Lachaude soupesurunvieilestomac, Dans un pays froid une bonne epaisse casaque, Neferaitpas plus debienquele soleil, S'il voulait luire un peu sur nous. Li chdcT sop' so on vi stoumah^ So rCfnut pai, on bon spet cazak Ni ferit nin pu d^bin ki Vsolo, Si voUf lUr on po sor no. April: Cesi Vusige dist-on d" s'attrapd Lonk et Vauf, li prumt d^avri: Si c'n'^esteu ko qu'po s''diverti, Qu'on koirah' in' goV a s''dupi! Mais c'n'est pu po rir"" qu'on s'surprin., Bi, mon si on ce reie, ci n'est k' de gros des din. On sHromp''^ on s'dispoie al tournaie: (Test Vprumi d'avri tof Vannaie! C'est Tusage, dit-on, de s'attraper L'un et Tautre le premier d'avril : Si ce n'etait que pour se divertir, Qu'on cherchat un peu a se duper ! Mais ce n'est plus pour rire qu'on se surprend, Du moins si Ton en rit ce n'est que du gros des dents. On se trompe, on se depouille tour a tour: Cest le prem. d'avril toute Tannee. t Of the total population of 6,069,321 in 1891, 2,744,293 spoke Flemisli xiv Language. BELGroM. The Flemish language differs but slightly from the Dutch, both being branches of the lower German language. In the middle ages they formed but one tongue, and even at the present day the Flemish spoken language differs no more from the Dutch than some German dialects do from each other, while the written languages are almost identical, especially since about 1864, when the Flemish writers ceased to use certain unimportant orthogra- phical peculiarities that had previously distinguished the languages. Flemish, although a rich and expressive language, cannot be called a highly-cultivated tongue, being spoken by the uneducated classes only, and possessing but little original literature. Centuries of Spanish, Austrian, and French domination have left the Flemish language unaltered for the simple reason that it was never used as a written language, except for catechisms, prayer-books, legends, etc., for the use of the lower classes. Since the year 1840, at the instigation of J. F. Willems (d. 1846), Ph. Blommaert (d. 1871), Van Ryswyck (d. 1849), Hendrik Conscience (d. 1883), and others, several scholars and societies have zealously striven to procure the introduction of Flemish into the higher political and social circles, and the 'Flemish movement' (' Vlaamsche Beweging') is powerful to this day. A law was passed in 1873 permitting a more general use of Flemish in judicial proceedings than had previously been competent, in 1883 the use of the Flemish speech was re-introduced into the middle-class schools of the Flemish provinces, and in 1888 a know- ledge of Flemish was made obligatory for Military Officers , but the fact remains unchanged, that a knowledge of French is still con- sidered indispensable to all but the lowest agricultural and labour- ing classes. The following peculiarities of pronunciation are common to Flemish and Dutch : y (in Dutch y) is pronounced like the Eng- lish i in time (but in West Flanders like e), u like the French u, eu like the French eu, eeu like the English a (in fate), oe like oo, ae like ah, ou as in English, ui like the French eu-i, oei like we, 8ch like s and the guttural ch in the Scotch loch, and sch at the end of a word almost like s. After what has been said, it need hardly be added that a slight knowledge of French will enable the traveller in Belgium to con- verse with every one with whom he is likely to come in contact, and that an acquaintance with the Flemish and Walloon dialects will probably be of little use except to the philologist. Those who are ignorant of French will be glad to know that English is spoken at most of the principal hotels throughout the country. only, 2 485,072 French only, 700,519 Flemish and French, 33,026 German only, 58,059 German and French ; 7195 Flemish and German, 36,185 Flemish, French, and German, and 4972 other languages only. BELGIUM. Railways. xv V. Churches, Picture Galleries, and Collections. The Chukchbs (Roman Catholic) are iisually open all day, with the exception of the midday-hours 12 to 2 or 3, but in the afternoon the visitor must sometimes apply to the sacristan. If the architecture or the pulpit be the chief object of interest it may be inspected in the forenoon, but when pictures are to be seen the attendance of the sacristan is necessary, as they are often covered with curtains or concealed in side-chapels. The best times in this case are 11-12 and the afternoon when there is no service. Fee for one person y2-l fr-) and for a party more in proportion. In many churches the fees are fixed by tariff, but here also a fee to the sacristan is oc- casionally expected. The great Picture Gallekies and other public Collections are generally open gratis from 10 or 11 a.m. till 3, 4, or 5 p.m., but on certain days a trifling fee for admission (V2~l f^O i^ sometimes charged. For admission to town-halls and similar sights the fee is usually about the same. In visiting a private collection a single traveller is expected to give a gratuity of about 2 fr. VI. Kailways. The most trustworthy time-tables are contained in the ^ Guide officiel des voyageurs sur tons les chemins de fer de Belgique\ or 'O/"- ficieele Gids voor Reizigers' published monthly, and sold at all rail- way-stations (edition in yellow cover, with map, 80 c). — Green- wich (W. Europe) time is used throughout in Belgium (not in Luxembourg) , and compared with the 'Mid Europe' time intro- duced in Germany, clocks are 1 hr. later. The reckoning of time from 1 to 24 o'clock has been officially introduced on the Belgian railways; thus 13 o'cl. corresponds to our 1p.m., 20 to 8 p.m., 0.10 to 12.10 a.m., etc. The fares on the Belgian lines per Engl. M. are now about 13 c. for the first, 10 c. for the second, and 7 c. for the third class; ex- press fares are somewhat higher. Return-tickets are issued at a reduction of 20 per cent., and are available from 1 to 3 days ac- cording to the distance, but do not permit of breaking the journey. Circular Tour Tickets (155 M. ; valid for 30 days) and Fortnightly Tickets (50, 38, or 25 fr.), valid on all the Belgian railways, are issued (see the Guide Officiel). No one is allowed on the platforms without either a railway-ticket or a platform-ticket (10 c). — The guard is called Garde or Conducteur, or (Flemish) Wachter. Luggage must be booked and paid for separately. On most of the international through-routes 56 lbs. are free, but on the inland routes the cost of its transport not unfrequently amounts to as much as a second or third class fare. The traveller is therefore recommended to restrict his requirements if possible to the limits of a travelling-bag or moderate valise , which when necessary he xvi Post Offices. BELGIUM. can wield unaided, and take with Mm into the railway-carriage, so as to avoid the delay and expense incurred in booking it for the luggage-van. Trunks over 56 lbs. in weight, however, must be booked, and should be at the office at least ^/^hr. before the train starts. The luggage-offices are closed 3 min. before the hour of de- parture. An advantage peculiar to the Belgian railways is that, in the case of the inland traffic, luggage may always be forwarded by passenger-train whether the sender takes a personal ticket for the journey or not. Luggage may be insured at a charge of 10 c. per 100 fr. of the value. At most stations there is a left-luggage office, where a charge of 10 c. per day is made for one or two packages and 5 c. per day for each additional article. There are Refreshment Rooms (Buffets-Restaurants) at a few of the Belgian stations only. They are mentioned in the above-noted official guide. VII. Post and Telegraph Offices. Postal Rates. Ordinary Letters within Belgium, 10 c. per 15 grammes (i/o oz.); to Luxembourg or Holland 20 c. ; other foreign countries 25 c. — Post Cards 5 c, for abroad 10 c. — Printed Papers 2 c. per 50 grammes, for abroad 5 c. Post Office Orders (mandats de Paste) are issued for most coun- tries in the Postal Union, at a charge of 20 pf. per 25 fr. Telegrams. "Within Belgium, 15 words 50 c., every 5 words additional to 50 words, 10 c, every 10 words thereafter 10 c. To Great Britain, 50 c. ground tax and 17 c. for every word; Ger- many, 50 and 9 c. ; France, 9 c. every word. Telephone within Belgium, 5 min. 1 fr., 10 min. 1 fr. 50 c. Vni. History and Statistics. The country called Belgium at the present day, which was origi- nally peopled with a race of Celtic origin , and was subsequently overrun by Teutonic invaders , was conquered by Caesar , and re- mained under Roman supremacy until the beginning of the 5th century, when the Salic Franks established themselves in the dis- trict between the Schelde, the Mouse, and the Lower Rhine. In the 9th century the country formed part of the Empire of Charlemagne. By the treaty of Verdun (843) the western pro- vinces , Flanders and Artois , became part of France , while the eastern, including Brabant, fell to the share of Germany. With the development of the feudal system various hereditary princi- palities were established here as elsewhere. Thus arose the states of Flanders , Artois , Hainault , Namur , the duchies of Brabant and Limburg , the principality of Liege , the county of Antwerp, and the lordship of M alines , which at a later period rendered themselves independent of their powerful neighbours. Flanders, which attained to great prosperity by means of its manufactures BELGIUM. . History, xvii and commercial enterprise, carried on a long-continued struggle against France, the result of wMcli, chiefly through the strenuous exertions of the cities of Ghent and Bruges, was the establishment of its complete independence. On the extinction of the male line of the Counts of Flanders in 1385 , Flanders became annexed to Burgundy by the marriage of Philip the Bold with a daughter of the Flemish princely race, and by the beginning of the 15th cent, most of the other states were also united , by means of later marriages and other contracts, inheritance, etc., under the suprem- acy of the Dukes of Burgundy. This change of dynasty was most favourable to the growth of art in the Netherlands. The splendour- loving Philip the Bold (d. 1404] employed artists of every kind, particularly goldsmiths, while the name of his grandson Pliilip the Good (1419-1467), to whom Jan van Eyck was court-painter, is inseparably connected with the first bloom of Flemish painting. In 1477 the Netherlands came into the possession of the House of Hapsburg by the marriage of Mary of Burgundy, the daughter of Charles the Bold, the last Duke of Bargundy, with Maximilian, afterwards Emperor of Germany. The children of this marriage were Philip the Handsome (d. 1506), Duke of Burgundy and King of Castile (in right of his wife, Johanna the Mad), and Margaret of Austria, regent of the Netherlands from 1506 to her death in 1530. Philip's son, Charles V., who was born at Ghent in 1500, and sub- sequently became Emperor of Germany and King of Spain, succeeded also to the Netherlandish provinces, which on his abdication in 1555 came under the sway of his son Philip II. Thenceforward the Ne- therlands were subject to Spanish Supremacy. Philip appointed his half-sister, Margaret of Parma, regent of the Netherlands (1559-67), and selected Granvella, Bishop of Arras, as her counsellor and as- sistant. Religious agitations, the excessive increase of the number of the bishops (1559), the burdensome presence and the outrages of the Spanish troops, and other grievances led to numerous tumults, to suppress which the king dispatched the Duke of Alva to the Nether- lands with an army of 20,000 men. The extreme cruelty with which Alva fulfilled his task resulted in the famous revolt of the United Netherlands in 1568. Success was achieved by the northern pro- vinces only, which now constitute the Kingdom of Holland, whilst the southern districts , the present Kingdom of Belgium , after protracted and fierce struggles, still continued to groan under the oppressive yoke of the Spaniards. At length, under the regime of Alexander Farnese, Duke of Parma (1578-96), the third governor after Alva, Belgium also succeeded in recovering the civic liberties in behalf of which the war had originally broken out. In 1598 the 'Spanish Netherlands' were ceded by Philip II. as a fief to his daughter Clara Isabella Eugenia on the occasion of her marriage with Albert, Archduke of Austria, the Spanish governor. Under their regime the wounds which the country had suffered Baedekek's Belgium and Holland. 12th Edit. b xviii History. BELGIUM. during the vrar began to heal. The princely pair exerted themselves in every way to promote the -welfare of the provinces under their care; industry and commerce once more flourished, and the ad- ministration of justice was reorganised. Their religious zeal, of a strong anti-reformation type, -was displayed in the foundation of new monasteries, colleges, and other Roman Catholic institutions, but at the same time materially contributed to the development of art. Numerous churches, in the gorgeous but somewhat degraded taste of the period, were built and decorated with brilliant altar- pieces. The Archduke and his wife, moreover, rendered the country an important service by securing the services of Rubens, who in 1609 had made up his mind to settle in Italy. They appointed him their court-painter, permitting him at the same time to reside at Antwerp, the centre of Flemish art. After Albert's death without issue (1621) the Netherlands re- verted to Spain, which during the wars of the latter half of the 17th cent, was obliged to cede many of its provinces (Artois , Thion- ville, etc.) to France. In 1714 these provinces were awarded by the Peace of Rastadt to the House of Austria. The ^Austrian 'Netherlands' werewisely and beneficently govern- ed by the archdukes of Austria, who held the office of Stadtholder, and for a brief period the glorious days of the Burgundian regime appeared to have returned. The governors of that period, especially under the Empress Maria Theresa, are still gratefully remembered by the Belgians. The opposition which the reforms of the Emp. Joseph II. encountered at length (in 1789) gave rise to the 'Bra- bant Revolution', headed by Van der Noot and Vonk, but the inde- pendence thus attained lasted for a single year only, and under Emp. Leopold II. the Austrians again took possession of the country. This revolution, however, paved the way for the interference of the French, whose aid had been invoked by the liberal parties. In 1794 the whole of Belgium was occupied by French Republicans, who divided it into nine departments. In 1814 the French supre- macy was finally shaken off. The Treaty of London , of 28th June, 1814, and the provisions of the Congress of Vienna, of 7th June, 1815, united Belgium and Holland under the name of the Kingdom of the Netherlands, and elevated William of Orange, son of the former stadtholder of the Seven Provinces , to the newly-constituted throne. Belgium was again severed from her constrained union with Holland by the Revolution of 1830. On 10th Nov. the provisional government summoned a national congress, by which the Due de Nemours, son of Louis Philippe, was invited to become the sovereign of Belgium. The French monarch having declined the dignity in behalf of his son, Leopold of Saxe-Coburg was next selected by the congress, and that prince accordingly ascended the throne on 21st July, 1831. The treaty of the intervening powers, signed at London on 15th BELGIUM. Statistics, xix Nov., 1831, by the representatives of the five great powers and of Belgium , although not finally recognised by the exasperated King of Holland till 1839, constituted the Kingdom of Belgium one of the independent European states , and determined the boundaries and the relations between the two disunited kingdoms. King Leopold II., born in 1835, the son of Leopold I. (b. 1790, d. 1865) and of Louise, his second consort, daughter of Louis Phi- lippe (d. 1850), ascended the throne on 10th Dec. , 1865. His Queen is Marie Henriette , daughter of the late Archduke Joseph. The royal family consists of the Princesses Louise (b. 1858; mar- ried in 1875 to PrincePhilip of Saxe-Coburg) , Stephanie ( b. 1864 ; married in 1881 to Rudolph, Crown Prince of Austria, d. 1889), and Clementine (b. 1872). Leopold, the only son (b. 1859), died at the age of ten. The Count of Flanders (b. 1845), who is married to Princess Mary of Hohenzollern. is the King's brother. Charlotte, the widow of Maximilian, Emp. of Mexico (d. 1867), is a sister of Leopold II. The Kingdom of Belgium has an area of 11,373 sq. M., and a population of 6,341,958, of whom only 15,000 are Protestants and 3000 Jews, the remainder being Roman Catholics. The country is divided into nine provinces, viz. Antwerp, Brabant, W. Flan- ders, E. Flanders, Hainault, Liege, Limburg, Luxembourg, and Namur. The density of population amounts to about 520 per sq. M., and varies from 873 per sq. M. in Brabant to 128 per sq. M. in Luxembourg. Brabant, E. Flanders, and Hainault are, with the exception of some of the manufacturing districts of England, among the most densely peopled districts in the world. Army. The Belgian army is destined on principle only for the defence of the country and of the neutrality assured to it by the Treaty of London (p. xviii). It consists of 138,000 men, and in time of peace, of 50,000 men. The army is composed of the follow- ing regiments : 1 Carabineers, 3 Riflemen, 14 Infantry of the line, 1 Grenadiers; 2 Chasseurs-a-cheval, 4 Lancers, 2 Guides, whose celebrated band is one of the best in Europe ; 4 Field Artillery (40 batteries of 6 guns each, 14 mounted), 4 Fortress Artillery (48 batteries); 1 Engineers; 1 Telegraph, and 1 Railway company. There are also several companies of the military train andpontoniers. — The Garde Civique, or militia, consists of 43,000 men. The national colours are red, yellow, and black, placed in three perpendicular stripes, which were the colours of the ancient Duchy of Brabant. The armorial bearings of Belgium consist of the Lion of Brabant, with the motto ^V union fait la force'. In 1895 Belgium possessed 55 merchant-ships, including 50 steamers, of an aggregate burden of 78,271 tons; and 373 fishing- boats of 9943 tons. It has no navy. b* XX Statistics. BELGIUM. Characteristics. Those indicated by the following monkish lines are said to exist to some extent even at the present day : — ^Nobilibus Bruxella viris, Antwerpia nummis, Gandavum laqueis. formosis Bruga puellis, Lovanium doctis, gaudet Mechlinia stultis\ [Brussels rejoices in noble men, Antwerp in money, Ghent in halters, Bruges in pretty girls, Louvain in learned men, and Malines in fools.) Halters are mentioned in connection with Ghent in allusion to the frequent humiliations to which its turbulent citizens were subjected by their sovereigns. The unenviable repu- tation of the citizens of Malines originated in the story that they once mistook the moon shining through their cathedral-tower for a conflagration, and endeavoured to extinguish it by means of the fire-engines. — A Flemish variant on the above calls the luxurious inhabitants of Brussels, ^de kieken-fretters' ('chicken-eaters'); the self-complacent merchants of Antwerp, ^de signooreri ; the citizens of Ghent, -de sfrop-dmapers" ('halter-bearers' ; see above), of Bruges, 'de sotte Brugge naaren' , of Louvain, 'c?e koei-schieters ('cow-shooters", because they once mistook a herd of cows for the enemy), and of Malines, 'de maan-hlussers'' ('moon-extinguishers', see above). HOLLAND I. Plan of Tour. The following tour of a week is recommended to the traveller whose time is limited : — 1 Day From London to Rotterdam hy steamhoait', or from Antwerp to Rotterdam by railway 1 Rotterdam, and thence by railway to the Hague .... 1 To Scheveningen; also \is,it^ T Huis ten Bosch 1 To Leyden, and the same evening to Haarlem 1 Haarlem , and in the evening to Amsterdam 1 Amsterdam, and Environs 1 To Utrecht and thence by railway to Arnhem 1 A hasty glance at the principal places in Holland may thus be obtained in a week or ten days , but the traveller whose time permits should devote a longer period to this interesting country. The following will be found a pleasant and instructive tour of a fortnight: — Days From London, or from Antwerp, to Rotterdam .... 1 Rotterdam and Delft 1 The Hague and Scheveningen • . . . 2 Leyden and Haarlem II/2 Alkmaar ; Helder, and back to Haarlem 3 Amsterdam and Environs 3 Utrecht 1 Arnhem 1 II. Money and Travelling Expenses. Money. The Dutch currency consists of florins (gulden or guilder) and cents. The florin (Is. S^/2d.) contains 100 cents, or 20 stuivers, or 10 dubheltjes. The only gold coins now issued are pieces of 10 fl., known as Gouten Tientjes; the gold pieces of earlier date still occasionally met with cannot be exchanged without a slight loss. The silver coins are pieces of 2^/2 (ryksdaalder) and 1 florin, and of 50, 25 (kwartje), 10 (dubbeltje), and 5 (stuiver) cents. A stuiver, or 5 cents, is worth id. English. English, French, or German money is taken at the hotels and railway-stations. The average exchange for a Napoleon is 9 fl. 40 cents, for a sovereign II3/4-I2 fl., for a 20 mark piece 11 fl. 80 cents. Expenses. Living in Holland is not cheap, though the common saying that a florin in Holland goes only as far as a mark in Ger- many is an exaggeration. The Dutch seaside resorts, especially Sche- veningen, have the reputation of being expensive. The hotels at the principal towns and resorts of travellers are generally clean and xxii Passports. HOLLAND. comfortable, but inferior to those of Belgium and Germany. In some respects they resemble the hotels in England more than those in other parts of the continent. The usual charge for a bedroom is 1-1 1/2 fl. , breakfast (plain) 50-80 cents, table d'hote 21/2-3 fl.. attendance 1/2 A- — Luncheon is generally taken between 11.30 and 2, dinner between 5 and 7 o'clock. Fees at museums, churches, etc., should not exceed 2 fl. per day. Hotel expenses amount to 7-8 fl. daily, and travelling and other expenses to 4-5 fl. , so that the total cost of a tour in Hol- land will be 13-15 fl. a day. The 'voyageur en gar^on' may reduce his expenditure to one half of this sum by breakfasting at the cafes , dining at unpretending restaurants , and avoiding the more expensive hotels. It may also be remarked that the steam- boats on the canals, the Rhine, Mouse, Yssel, etc., afford a cheaper, and often pleasanter mode of travelling than the railways. III. Passports, Custom House. Passports may be dispensed with in Holland, as in Belgium, but the traveller had better be provided with one if he contemplates a prolonged tour. Customhouse. All new articles, especially if not wearing- apparel , are liable to pay duty according to their value, which must be declared beforehand. New articles not previously declared are liable to confiscation. IV. Language. A slight acquaintance with the Dutch language will contribute greatly to the instruction and enjoyment afforded by a tour in Holland. German, however, is very generally understood, and English and French are spoken at all the best hotels and other prin- cipal resorts of travellers. Those who have a knowledge of German, Danish , or Swedish will recognise the identity of the roots of the great majority of the words in these languages with those of the Dutch. The language, which may be described as a Lower Frank- ish dialect, and which existed in a written form as early as the 13th century, developed its individuality more strongly during the wars of independence of the 17th century. It is expressive and highly cultivated, and free from the somewhat vague and ungram- matical character which stamps Flemish as a mere patois. Like other languages of purely Teutonic origin, it has admitted a consid- erable number of Romanic words to the rights of citizenship : thus , kantoor (comptoir) , kwartier (quartier) , katoen (coton), kastrol (casserole) , rekwest (requete) , gids (guide), etc. Words of foreign origin , however , have been imported from motives of con- venience or fashion, rather than absolute necessity. The language Is remarkably rich and full of vital energy , and words of purely native growth are to be found in almost every branch of science Wij leven vrij, vij leven blij Op Neerlands dierbren grond, Ontworsteld aan de slavernij, Zijn wij door eendracbt groot en vrij ; Hier duldt de grond geen dwing- landij Waar vrijheid eeuwen stond. (Brandt.) (Literal translation: 'We live free, we live blithe, on Netherlands' dear ground; delivered from slavery, we are through concord great and free ; here the land suffers no tyranny, where freedom has subsisted for ages'.) HOLLAND. Language, xxiii and art. The following lines from two popular ballads will serve as a specimen : — Wien Neerlandsch bloed in de aderen vloeit, Van vreemde smetten vrij, Wiens hart voor land en Koning gloeit, Verhef den zang als wij : Hij stel met ons, vereend van zin. Met onbeklemde borst, Het godgevallig feestlied in Voor Vaderland en Vorst. (Tollens.) (Literal translation: 'Let him, in whose veins flows Netherlandish blood, free from foreign stain, and whose heart glows for country and king, raise the song with us, united in sentiment, with unburdened breast, in the festal song, pleasing to God, for Fatherland, and Sovereign'.) The pronunciation of Dutch somewhat resembles that of Ger- man , but is more guttural , and therefore more difficult for the English student. The vowels a, e, i, o, u are pronounced as in French , and are lengthened , but not altered in sound , by being doubled (thus oo:=o)\ ei and ij, or y, are like the vowel sound in the French pays ; au and ou like ow in now, but broader (aw-oo) ; eu like the French eu or the German o ; oe like the English oo or the German u ; ui has a sound fluctuating between oi and ow (as in now). Li most other combinations of vowels each retains its usual sound. All the consonants are pronounced as in English, except g and ch, which have a guttural sound like the ch in the Scotch word loch, or the g in the German Tag ; w, which is pronounced like v; j like the English y or ee ; and v like f . Final n is often dropped in colloquial speech (e.g. Leyde' for Leyden). The definite article is de for the masculine and feminine, and het for the neuter; genitive des, der, des, or van den, van de, van het; dative den, der, den, or aan den, aan de, aan het; plural for all genders de, der, den, de. The declension of substantives and adjectives resembles the German. The plural of substantives is formed by the addition of s or of en (dative plural always en). T]\e pronouns are ik, I; my, me, to me; pi;', thou, you; m, thee, to thee, you, to you; hij, he; hem, him, to him; het, it; iij, she; haar, her, to her; zij, they; hun, to them; hen, them. Mijn, mijne, my; uw, uwe, thy, your; zijn, zijne, his; haar, hare, her; onze, ons, our; hun, hunne, their. Wie, who (interrog.); wat, what ; hoe, how ; wanneer, when. Cardinal numbers : een, twee, drie, vier, vijf, zes, zeven, acht, negen, tien, elf, twaalf, dertien, veertien, vijftien, zestien, zeven- tien, achtien, negentien , twintig , een en twintig, etc., dertig, veertig, vijftig, zestig, zeventig , tachtig, negentig, honderd, xxiv Language. HOLLAND. duizend. Ordinal numbers : de eerste, de t^veede, de derde, de vierde, achtste (8th j, etc., de twintigste, de tachtigste (SOthJ, etc. Partitive numbers : een half, eeii derde, een vierde, etc. Auxiliary verbs. Hebben, to have ; zijn or wezen, to he ; zullen, the infinitive of shall or will (future sense) ; warden, to be (in the formation of the passive voice) ik heb ik ben gij hebt gij zijt hij, zij heeft hij, zij is wij hebben wij zijn gij hebt gij zijt zij hebben zij zijn gehad, had. gevoeest, been. The conjugation of verbs and the construction of sentence- closely resemble the German. The form of address among the upper classes is always Z7 (prop- erly TJwe Edele, Your lordship, Ital. Yossignoria), with the thir, person singular, and often with the addition of Mynheer. A mars ried lady is addressed as Mevrouw (pronounced Mefrow), a young laAy as Jong € juffrouw. Juffrouw is uniformly used in addressing bar-maids, female attendants in shops, etc. — Among the common people gij or jij, abbreviated into je, is used with the second per- son plural. Je is also made use of in familiar speech by persons of the upper ranks, but the stranger is recommended to abide by the more formal mode of address. ik zal ik word gij zult gij wordt hij, zij zal hij, zij wordt wij zullen wij warden gij zult gij wordt zij zullen. zij warden geworden, been. Mag ik v vragen, hoe ga ik naar . . ? Wat is de kartste weg naar . . ? Ga regt uit, en dan de eerste straat links, rechts. Ik dank U, mijnheer. Ik zal met den spoorweg (or simply met het spoor), met het stoomboot, reizen. Kruier, breng de bagage naar het spoor. Ik geloof dat het te laat is. In welke klassereist V, mijnheer? Ik zal een kaartje (or billet^ vor de tweede klas nemen. Hoe laat is het? Het is kwartier voor twee'en, over drieen, halftien. De trein vertrekt om vijf uur en komt om tien aan. Hoe lang hauden wij hier stilVi Waar zijn wij nu ? May I ask you how I am to go to . . Which is the shortest way to . . Go straight on, and then by the firs street to the right,to the left. Thank you, Sir. I shall travel by railway, by steamer. Porter , take the luggage to the station. I believe it is too late. In which class will you travel ? I shall take a ticket for the second class. What o'clock is it? It is a quarter to two, a quarter past three, half-past nine. The train starts at 5 o'clock and arrives at ten. How long do we stop here? Where are we now? HOLLAND. Language, xxv Bit is de laatste station. Koetsier, breng ons naar . . WacM , ik moet nog mijne la- gage halen. Bij het hotel . . . ophouden. Hoeveel is de vracht? Een fooi. Kan ik een kamer krijgen ? met een bed, twee bedden. Zeker, mijnheer. Kellner, wat hebt gij te eten? het cntbijt , het middaggeten , het avondeten; drinken. Breng mij gebraden rundvleesch, schapenbout, kalfsborst, ham, visch , aardappelen , groente (fern.), brood, boter, vruchten, kaas, wijn, hier, koffy, thee, jenever, hitter. Mes, vork, lepel, glas, bord, eene flesch. Ik zal morgen om zeven ure ver- trekken ; wek mij om zes. Hoeveel bedraagt onze nota ? Wat moeten wij TJ betalen ? In welke straat is het musevm? Hoe ver is het van hier? Wanneer is het geopend ? Dagelijks kosteloos , van tien tot ^ drie uur, hehalve — '/S woendags en '5 zaturdags tegen entreegeld. Zondag, maandag, dinsdag, don- derdag, vrijdag. Eeden, morgen, gisteren. Ik wensche eenige photographien te koopen, gezichten van . . . , kopijen naar de schilderijen van . . . Laat mij zien wat gij hebt. ; Dat is niet mooi. K Wat is de prijs ? H Wat vraagt je er voor ? [p Ik heb geen klein geld bij mij ; kunt gij mij wisselen'i Ja, mijnheer; neen, mijnheer. Als H TJ belieft. Met vragen komt men te Rome. This is tlie last station. Coacliman, drive us to . . . Wait, I must fetcli my luggage. To stop at the . . . hotel. What is the fare? A fee. Can I have a room? with one hed, with two heds. Certainly, Sir. Waiter, what have you to eat? hreakfast, dinner, supper; to drink. Bring me roast beef, leg of mut- ton, breast of veal, ham, fish, potatoes , vegetables , bread, butter, fruit, cheese, wine, beer, coffee, tea, gin, bitters. Knife, fork, spoon, glass, plate, bottle. I shall start to morrow at 7 o'clock ; wake me at 6. How much does our bill come to? What must we pay you? In which street is the museum ? How far is it from here ? When is it open? Daily, gratis, from ten to three, except — Wednesdays and Saturdays on payment. Sunday,Monday,Tuesday, Thurs- day, Friday. To-day, to-morrow, yesterday. I want to buy some photographs, views of ... , copies of the paintings of . . . Let me see what you have. That is not pretty. What is the price? What do you ask for this ? I have no change with me ; can you change me (some money)? Yes, sir; no, sir. If you please. By questioning one gets to Rome. xxvi Railways. HOLLAND. V. Churches, Picture Galleries, and Collections. Churches are shown by the sacristans, who demand the large sum of 25 c. from each visitor, frequently according to tariff. As Dutch churches contain few works of art beyond an occasional tomb, most travellers will spend their time elsewhere. PiCTUEE Galleries and Collections are generally open from 10 a.m. till 3 or 4 p.m. In all collections belonging to the state gratuities are forbidden ; sticks and umbrellas must be given up at the door, but no charge is made for taking care of them. These last remarks do not apply to municipal collections. The usual gratuity at private collections is 1 fl. VI. Kailways. Most of the remarks made with regard to Belgian railways apply to the Dutch also. Holland also possesses an extensive system of steam-tramways. The best railway time-tables are contained in Huart ^- Meijer's Officieele Reisgids voor Spoor-en Tramxvegen in Nederland (10 c). Other means of travelling (steamboats, diligences, omnibus, tram- ways, etc.) are only contained in Van Santen's Officieele Reisgids voor Nederland, published monthly (with small map, 15 cents, with large map, 25 cents). The hours of departure of the fast trains (1st and 2nd class) are printed in Italics ; v. (vertrek) means departure, and a. (aankomst) arrival. To change carriages is overstappen. — On the Dutch railways, Greenwich or "West Europe time is intro- duced (comp. p. xvi); for local traffic, Amsterdam time is used, which is 20 min. in advance of the West Europe time. VII. Post and Telegraph Offices. Postal Rates. Ordinary Letters within Holland 5 c. per 15 grammes {^'2 oz.); for abroad 121/2 c. — Post Cards 2^2 c. ; for abroad 5 c. —Printed Papers §^ MSS., 25 gr. 1 c, 100-150 "gr- 5 c, 150-200 gr. 71/2 c, 200-300 gr. 10 c, etc. Post Office Orders are issued for most countries in the Postal Union, at a charge of I21/2 c. per 10 gulden. Telegrams. Within Holland, 10 words 25 c., each additional 2 words 3 c. extra. — To Great Britain, 5 words 50 c, each addi- tional word 10 c. ; to the United States, each word 82, 92, or 97 c. or more, according to the distance. VIII. Dutch Characteristics. Towns. Most of the Dutch towns , especially those in Noord- Holland, Zuid-Holland , Friesland, and Groningen. as well as the open country, are intersected in every direction by canals ('G^rac/ifen;, which are generally enlivened with numerous barges. The different quarters of the towns are connected by means of drawbridges (ophaalbruggen) , now being replaced, however, by swing-bridges HOLLAND. Characteristics, xxvii (draaihruggen). The roads and streets skirting the canals are usually planted with trees, which render them shady and picturesque. The Dutch houses are generally lofty and narrow, and construct- ed of brick and white cement. The beams occasionally seen pro- jecting from the gables are used for hoisting up goods to the lofts, which are used as magazines. The windows of the ground-floor being generally of ample dimensions, and polished with the scrupulous care which characterises the Dutch of all classes , the houses present a far more cheerful and prosperous appearance than is usual in large towns. At the cellar-doors in the side-streets, sign-boards with the words '■water en vuur te koop' (water and fire to sell) are frequently observed. At these humble establishments boiling-water and red-hot turf are sold to the poorer classes for the pre- paration of their tea or coffee. Many of the houses and public build- ings are considerably out of the perpendicular, a circumstance due to the soft and yielding nature of the ground on which they stand. In many Dutch towns the custom prevails of affixing bulletins to the doors of houses in which persons are sick, in order that their friends may be apprised of the state of their health without knocking or ringing. At Haarlem and Enkhuizen the birth of a child is announced by means of a small placard adorned with red silk and lace, and the friends of the family are entertained on these occasions with ^kandeeV (a kind of mulled wine) and ^kaneel-koekjes' (cinnamon-cakes). Betrothals are celebrated by an unlimited consumption of '■hruidsuiker' ('bridal sugar', or sweet cakes) and '■Iruidstranen' ('bridal tears', as the spiced wine is figuratively called). The Chimes in the towers of the churches, or other public build- ings , proclaim the quarters of every hour by playing a few bars of some popular or operatic air. The ^Oaper' (gaper), a painted Turk's or Moor's head, is a customary sign for druggists' shops. A large crown, decorated with box-leaves and gilding, suspended beneath the Dutch flag, is an indication that new herrings have arrived in the shop thus adorned. ^Tapperif (tap-room), or '■hier verkoopt man sterke dranken' (strong drinks are sold here), with the addition of ver- gunning (licensed), are the common signs for taverns. ^Dit huis is te huur' (this house is to hire, or let) is also frequently observed. Stoofjes, or foot-warmers, are universally employed by the female members of the community, and are seen in great numbers in the churches. The Dutch love of cleanliness sometimes amounts almost to a monomania. The scrubbing, washing, and polishing which most houses undergo once every week, externally as well as internally, are occasionally somewhat subversive of comfort. Spiders appear to be regarded with especial aversion , and vermin is fortunately as rare as cobwebs. xxviii Country Houses. HOLLAND. Country Houses (buitenplaatsen , or buitens). Although na- ture has not "bestowed her charms lavishly on Holland , the careful cultivation of the fields, gardens, and plantations imparts a pictur- esque and prosperous appearance to the country. In the vicinity of the larger cities , especially on the Vecht hetween Utrecht and Amsterdam, and also at Arnhem , Haarlem, etc. , numerous villas and country-seats are seen near the roads and canals, frequently enclosed by carefully kept gardens, parks, and pleasure-grounds. These paradises of the Dutch gentry and retired merchants, which are too often built in bad taste, and disfigured with paint and stucco, usually bear inscriptions characteristic of the sentiments of their proprietors, and breathing a spirit of repose and comfort. Thus : ^Lust en RusV (pleasure and repose) , ' Wei Tevreden' (well content), ^Mijn Genoegen (my satisfaction), ^Mijn Lust en Leven' (my pleasure and life), ' Vriendschap en Gezelschap^ (friendship and sociability), '■Vreugde bij Frerfe' (joy with peace), '•Groot Genoeg' (large enough), '■Buiten Zorg' (without care). Many villas rejoice in much lengthier titles , which perhaps appear peculiarly appro- priate to the occupants, but cannot fail to excite a smile when read by strangers. Few of these country-houses are seen from the rail- way, and the traveller should therefore endeavour to visit some of the more attractive of those mentioned in the following pages. Gasthuisen AND HoFJES. A G'asi/iwzs is a hospital. The number of benevolent institutions in Holland, dating from earlier centuries, is remarkably great. Eofjes are groups of dwellings, arranged round a court or yard, and occupied as almshouses by aged persons. Oudeman- nen and Oudevrouwen houses, orphanages maintained by the various religious denominations, and similar institutions are very numerous. The picturesque National Costumes have been retained in Holland (except in the larger towns) more generally than in almost any other country. The costumes in the islands of Vrk and Marken, in the Zuiderzee, are specially noteworthy. Comp. pp. 352, 347. "Windmills (molens) are a characteristic of almost every Dutch landscape, and here attain an unprecedented size and strength. They are used in grinding com, sawing timber, cutting tobacco, manufacturing paper, etc., but one of their most important functions is to pump up the superfluous water from the low ground to the canals which conduct it to the sea. Recently, however, steam-engines (stoomgemaalj have been largely introduced for this last purpose. Dykes. Holland , as a whole , is probably the lowest country in the world, the greater part of it lying many feet below the sea- level. The safety of the entire kingdom therefore depends upon the dykes, or embankments, by which the encroachment of the sea is prevented. In many places these vast and costly structures are equally necessary to prevent inundation by the rivers, the beds of which are gradually raised by alluvial deposits. HOLLAND. Canals, xxix The lirst care of the constructor of dykes is to lay a secure and massive foundation, as a preliminary to which the ground is stamped or compressed in order to increase its solidity. The dykes themselves are composed of earth, sand, and mud, which when thoroughly consolidated are entirely impervious to water. The surface is then covered with twigs of willows, interwoven with elaborate care, the interstices of which are filled with clay so as to hind the whole into a solid mass. The willows, which are extensively cultivated for the purpose , are renewed every three or four years. Many of the dykes, moreover, are planted with trees, the roots of which contribute materially to the consolidation of the structure. Others are provided with bulwarks of masonry, or protected by stakes against the violence of the waves, while the surface is covered with turf. The most gigantic of these embankments are those of the Hel- der (p. 349), and of Westcapelle on the W. coast of the island of Wal- cheren (p. 249). The annual cost of maintaining the latter alone amounts to 75,000 fl. , while the total expenditure through- out Holland for works of this description is estimated at six million florins. A corps of engineers, termed De Waterstaat, is occupied exclusively in superintending these works. The con- stantly-imminent nature of the danger will be thoroughly ap- preciated by the stranger, if he stands at the foot of one of the great dykes at high tide, and hears the breakers dashing against the other side of the barrier, at a height of 16-18 ft. above his head. The force of the old Dutch proverb 'God made the sea , we made the shore', will also be apparent. Canals intersect the country in every direction. They serve a threefold purpose : (1) as high-roads, for purposes of traffic ; (2) as drains , by which superfluous water is removed from the cultivated land; (3) as enclosures for houses, fields, and gardens, being as commonly used for this purpose in Holland as walls and hedges in other countries. The Dutch canals differ from those in most other countries in being generally broader, but variable in width, while locks are rare, as the level of the water is nearly always the same. Those canals, however, which are connected with the sea are closed at their extremities by massive flood-gates, to prevent the en- croachment of the sea when its level is higher than the water in the canal. The principal canals are about 60 ft. in width , and 6 ft. in depth. Not only the surface of the water, but the bed of the canal is often considerably above the level of the surrounding country. The three most important works of this kind in Holland are the great North Holland Canal (p. 344), 42 M. in length, 43 yds. in width, and 20 ft. in depth ; the North Sea Canal across 'Holland op zyn smaalst' (p. 345) , connecting Amsterdam and the North Sea; and the Willems-Canal in N. Brabant. XXX Poldfrs. HOLLAND. PoLDBR is a term applied to a morass or lake, the bed of whioh has been reclaimed by draining. A great part of Holland and Flanders has been thus reclaimed, and rendered not only habit- able, but extremely valuable for agricultural purposes. The first step in the process of drainage consists in enclosing the marsh with a dyke, to prevent the admission of water from with- out. The water is then removed by means of water-wheels of pecu- liar construction, formerly driven by windmills, now by steam-en- gines. The marsh or lake to be reclaimed is sometimes too deep to admit of the water at once being transferred to the main canals, and thus carried off. In these cases a system of dykes , one within the other, and each provided with a canal on its exterior, forms an as- cending series of levels, from the lower of which the water is grad- ually transferred to the higher, and thence finally into the principal channels. An excellent example of this is seen in the Schermer Polder Qp. 349). where four different levels have been formed. These canals, although separate from one another, are all provided with means of communication, by which if necessary the water from the higher can be discharged into the lower. The extraordinary fertility of the land thus reclaimed is chiefly accounted for by the fact, that superfluous water can be removed by means of the water-wheels on the shortest notice , while in dry seasons a thorough system of irrigation is constantly available. The appearance of these polders differs materially from that of the rest of the country. The speculators by whom they are drained map them out with mathematical precision into parcels, separated by canals and rows of trees at right angles, and furnished with houses of precisely uniform construction, all affording manifest indications of the artificial nature of the ground. The polders often lie under water in winter, but this by no means impairs the fertility of the soil, provided the water is not salt. The principal polders are the Beemster, Purmer, Schermer (pp. 351, 349), that of Haarlem (p. 265), reclaimed in 1840-53, and the recently-drained polder of the Y (p. 345). It is now proposed to convert the whole of the Zuider Zee into a polder, whereby Hol- land would gain an additional province of 687 sq. M. in area at an estimated cost of 120 million florins, or about 34i. sterling per acre^ Dunes, or downs, are the low sand-hills, 30-160 ft. in height, which extend along the coast of Holland and Flanders, having been thrown up by the action of the wind and waves. Those nearest the sea are of very unsubstantial consistency, aiid being frequently altered in shape by the wind they afford little or no sup- port to vegetable life. Between the central downs (the highest and broadest) and those farther inland , is situated an almost uninter- rupted tract of pasture and arable land, studded with cottages, and producing excellent potatoes. Most of the downs are honeycombed with rabbit-warrens, which often afford excellent sport. HOLLAND. History, xxxi In order to prevent the sand of the downs from covering the adjacent land , they are annually sown with the plants that most readily take root in such poor soil, especially the reed-grass (Dutch, helm; arundo arenarea). In course of time the roots spread and entwine in every direction, thus gradually consolidating the sand. A suhstratum of vegetable soil once formed , the arid and useless sand-hill is converted into a smiling and fertile agricultural district, in which even plantations of pines appear to thrive. IX. History and Statistics. The earliest inhabitants of the district at the embouchures of the Rhine are said to have accompanied the Cimbri and Teutones in their expedition against Italy. Several banished tribes of the Catti, who settled in the deserted island of Betuwe (p. 382), were conquered by the Romans, whose supremacy over this part of the country continued from the failure of the great rebellion of Clau- dius Civilis till the end of the 4th cent. , when the Salic Franks, the inhabitants of the banks of theYssel, took possession of theBe- tuwe, and established themselves between the Schelde, Meuse, and Lower Rhine. The district to the N. E. of the Salic Franks was occupied by the Frisians, to the E. of whom were the Saxons. The supremacy of Charlemagne extended over the whole of the Netherlands. Under his successors the system of investing vassal-princes with the land gradually developed itself. The most powerful of these were the Bishops of Utrecht, the Dukes of Guel- ders, and the Counts of Holland. In 1274 Count William II, of Holland was elected German Emperor through the influence of Pope Innocent IV. In 1512 the Dutch provinces were enrolled as a part of the Burgundian section of the Germanic Empire. Under the Emperor Charles V. the whole of the Netherlands were united (1543), and they now enjoyed a golden era of prosperity, in consequence of the powerful protection accorded by that monarch to commerce and navigation. Under his bigoted son and successor Philip II. of Spain, after the Duke of Alva's arrival at Brussels (1568), began that memorable, and at first apparently-hopeless struggle which lasted for 80 years, and terminated in the re- cognition of the Northern Netherlands as an independent state by the haughty Spaniards, and the establishment of the powerful Dutch Republic. The great founder of Dutch liberty was William of Nassau, 'the Taciturn', Prince of Orange, a German nobleman, who was born atDillenburg in the Duchy of Nassau in 1533. He was a great favour- ite of the Emperor Charles Y. , who appointed him, when 22 years of age only , 'stadtholder' or governor of the provinces of Holland, Zealand , and Utrecht. The Low Countries having come into the possession of the Duke of Alva , the Spanish Governor, William retired to Dillenburg, but in 1572 was invited by Holland and Zea- xxxii History. HOLLAND. land to take the command of their troops against the Spaniards. He shortly afterwards captured Middelburg, and succeeded in raising the siege of the distressed tOTvn of Leyden. On 29th Jan., 1579, was formed the famous defensive league of the N. Netherlands, known as the Utrecht Union. William was shortly afterwards con- demned to banishment by Philip II., but the States General bravely defied the king's authority, and in 1581 formally threw off their allegiance to the Spanish crown. On 10th July, 1584, William fell by the hand of an assassin at Delft (p. 263), very shortly before the day on which the States intended to have conferred upon him the dignity of an hereditary count of Holland. The year following his death his son Maurice was elected stadtholder in his stead. Under his presidency [1585-1625) the power and wealth of the Republic rapidly increased , active hostilities were frequently undertaken against the Spaniards, and the E. Indian trading com- pany was formed (1602). Meanwhile, however, there arose serious dissensions between the democratic and the government parties, which were greatly aggravated by the pernicious theological contro- versies of the Arminians and the Gomarists (p. 388). Contrary to the sound advice of the stadtholder , the States in their anxiety for commercial prosperity concluded a twelve years' peace with Spain in 1609. Incensed by the quarrels which now ensued, Maurice caused the influential John van Oldenbarneveld , the pensionary or chancellor of the province of Holland, then in his 72nd year, to be arrested and condemned to death by a partial tribunal in 1619 (p. 278), but by this judicial murder he did not succeed in intimid- ating his refractory subjects. Maurice died in 1625, and was suc- ceeded by his brother Frederick Henry (1625-47), under whom the unity of the Republic became more consolidated , and the prosperity of the States reached its climax. Both by land and by sea they triumphed over the Spaniards in the hostilities which now broke out afresh; and in 1628 the gallant admiral Piet Hein captured the Spanish 'silver fleet'. The Dutcb commerce of that period was the most widely extended in the world. The great Dutch navigators Houtman, Heemskerck, Davis, Schou- ten, Lemaire, Hartog, Edels, Schapenham, Nuyt, Vianen, Caron, Tas- man, De Vries, Van Campen, and Berkel, explored the most distant coasts in the world during this period, while theE. Indian factories, especially that of Batavia, which had been establisbed in 1619, yielded a rich harvest. The Dutch school of painting now attained its culminating point (comp. p. lii), and the sciences were also highly cultivated during this prosperous epoch, as the well-known names of Grotius, Vossius, Heinsiua, Gronovius, etc., abundantly testify. Frederick Henry died in 1647, shortly before the Peace of Westphalia, by which the independence of the United States of the Netherlands was formally recognised , and was succeeded by his Bon William, then in his 21st year. HOLLAND. History, xxxiii The renewal of dissensions between the States and the stadt- holder determined them, on the early death of this prince in 1650, not to elect a new governor, and the reins of government were now entrusted to the distinguished Grand Pensionary John de Witt , an able and energetic senator. During this period the navigation acts were passed by Crom- well, placing restrictions on the Dutch trade , and thus giving rise to the war which called into activity the talents of Tromp , De Witt, De Ruyter, and other naval heroes , whose memory is still justly cherished by the Dutch. Within the brief period of sixteen months (1652-54) no fewer than twelve great naval battles were fought, in most of which the arms of the Republic were crowned with success. By the peace concluded in 1654, however, the States were obliged to recognise the authority of the navigation acts. In 1665 a war with England again broke out, during which, in 1667, De Ruyter even entered the estuary of the Thames with his fleet, endangering the safety of London itself , to the great consternation of the citizens. Notwithstanding this success , the peace concluded shortly afterwards was again productive of little benefit to Holland. Meanwhile Louis XIV. of France had disclosed his designs against the Netherlands , and had taken possession of the part be- longing to Spain. His proceedings against Holland, however, were checked for a time by the triple alliance between England, Holland, and Sweden , concluded by the advice of the Grand Pensionary de Witt. In 1672, after the dissolution of the alliance, Louis renewed his attacks on the now almost defenceless Union, whose army had been entirely neglected since the death of Prince William. Conde and Turenne took possession of the provinces of Guelders, Over-Yssel, and Utrecht almost without a blow , while that of Hol- land, with its capital Amsterdam , only succeeded in averting the same fate by means of an artificially caused inundation. The people, believing that they had been betrayed by their government , now broke out into a rebellion to which De Witt fell a victim (p. 278), and which resulted in the revival of the office of stadtholder. William III. (1672-1702), the last, and after its founder great- est, scion of his house, was accordingly elected, and the office of stadtholder declared hereditary. Under his auspices, with the aid of the Elector of Brandenburg and the Spanish troops, the French were defeated, and the war was at length terminated by the Peace of Nymegen in 1678. William III., who had thus been instrumental in asserting the liberties of Europe against the usurping encroachments of the 'Grand Monarque', married Mary, daughter of the Duke of York, afterwards King James II. of England. In 1688 he undertook that bold expedition across the Channel which resulted in the deliverance of England from the arbitrary government of the Stuarts and the final establishment of constitutional liberty and Protestantism in Baedekbs''3 Belgium and Holland. 12tli Edit, C xxxiv History. HOLLAND. Great Britain. The following year he was elected King by parlia- ment, retaining at the same time the office of stadtholder of the Netherlands. In his new position he continued strenuously to oppose the increasing power of France. The united fleets of England and Holland gained a decisive victory over the French near La Hogue in 1692, and by the Peace of Ryswyk in 1697 Louis was compelled to restore a considerable part of his conquests. William was now estranged from his native country, but shortly before his death, without issue, in 1702, he brought about the 'Great Alliance' which disputed the right of the French monarch to succeed to the crown of Spain. Following the example of the States General (p. xxxi), the five most important provinces now declared the office of Stadtholder abolished. Their foreign policy, however, underwent no alteration on this account. Prince John William Friso (d. 1711, see p. 177), stadtholder of Friesland and cousin of William III, succeeded to the command of the axmy of the Republic, which took part in the war of the Spanish succession. Under his presidency the power of the States General manifested itself anew. The flower of the Dutch army feU at the bloody victory of Malplaquet (p. 185), and in 1714 the Peace Congress assembled at Utrecht, on Dutch soil. The events of the 18th cent, scarcely require special mention. The Republic had lost its prestige , and in the continuing alliance with England the preponderating power of the latter became more and more marked. When the French entered the territory of the Republic during the Austrian war of succession , the people com- pelled the States to appoint William IV., Prince of Orange, the son and successor of John William Friso, General Stadtholder over all the seven provinces ; and in 1748 this dignity was once more declared hereditary. A revolution which broke out towards the close of the century ended in the expulsion of the Stadtholder William V. ; but he was reinstated in his office by the Prussian army, which had advanced almost unopposed to the gates of Amsterdam itself. The importance of the Republic had now dwindled to a mere shadow. In 1795 the French Republicans , led by Dutch exiles, took possession of the country , founded the ^Batavian Republic', and at the same time caused heavy taxes to be levied. Schimmel- pennink, an able statesman , was created president of the new Re- public, under the old title of Grand Pensionary , but in 1805 was compelled to yield up his authority to Louis JBonaparte, who had been created King of Holland by his brother Napoleon I. This semblance of independent existence came to an end in 1810, when Napoleon annexed Holland to France , declaring it to have been formed by the alluvial deposits of French rivers. At length in November, 1813, the French were expelled from Holland by the Dutch , aided by the Russians and Prussians ; and the Prince of Orange, son of William V., the last stadtholder, who HOLLAND. Statistics, xxxv died in exile in 1806, ascended the throne of Holland as an in- dependent sovereign. By the Congress of Yienna in 1815, the southern, or Belgian provinces of the Netherlands, -were united with the northern into a single Kingdom , and the Prince of Orange was created King of the Netherlands , under the title of William I. This bond of union between two races differing materially in language , religion , and character was severed by the Belgian Revolution of 1830 (comp. p. xviii). Ten years later William I. abdicated in favour of his son William II. ^ who died in 1849, and was succeeded by William III. (born in 1817, married first in 1839 to Princess Sophia of Wurtemberg, who died in 1877, and secondly to the Princess Emma of Waldeck in 1879). At his death (Nov. 23rd, 1890) the male line of the house of Nassau-Orange became extinct. He was succeeded by his daughter Wilhelmina (b. 1880), during whose minority the queen-mother exercises the functions of regent. Area and Popdlation. The Kingdom of the Netherlands, including the Province of Linxburg, is 12.650 sq. M. in area, and lias (1893) a popu- lation of 4,795,616, of whom 1,596,482 are Roman Catholic and 92,254 Jews. Amsterdam is the capital of the kingdom, and the Hague is the residence of the king. The Netherlands are divided into eleven provinces : Jf. Bra- bant (capital SHertogenbosch), Drenthe (Assen), Friesland (Leeuwarden), Guelderland (Arnhem), Oroningen (Groningen), N. Holland (Amsterdam), ^. Holland (Hague), Limhurg (Maastricht), Over-Yssel (Zwolle), Utrecht (Utrecht), Zeeland (Middelburg). The national colours are red, white, and blue, placed in horizontal lines (the French are placed vertically) •, the motto, 'Je maintiendrai'. Colonies. The most important Dutch colonies in the E. Indies are Java (capital B at a via) , Sumatra, Borneo, Celebes, and the Molucca is- lands; in the W. Indies Surinam and Curacao; to which must be added a number of factories on the coast of Guinea. The total area of these possessions amounts to 766,000 sq. M., the population to 32 million souls. CoMMEKCE. The merchant fleet of Holland in 1894 numbered 581 vessels (including 157 steamers), of an aggregate burden of 260,000 tons. The imports in 1894 amounted to 1460 million, the exports to 1114 million florins. The Army consists of 9 regiments of Infantry, 3 regiments of Hussars, 3 regiments of Field-Artillery (18 batteries), 1 regiment of Horse Artillery (2 batteries), and 4 regiments of Fortress Artillery (40 companies) , corps of the military train, pontoniers, 'depot-battalions', instruction battalions, etc., amounting in all to 26,900 men. Beside the regular army there are the 'Schutterys', a kind of national guard, and the 'landsturm', or militia. — The army in the colonies has a strength of about 36,000 men., includ- ing 16,000 Europeans. The Navt consisted in 1896 of 100 vessels of war (22 iron-clads), com- manded by three vice-admirals, 3 rear-admirals Cschouten-by-nacht'), 26 captains, 35 commanders, etc., and manned by upwards of 7300 hands. An Historical Sketch of Art in the Netherlands. By Professor Springer. The traveller wlio -o-ould explore the Netherlands without tak- ing account of the Art Treasures still preserved there, heedlessly disregards a source of the highest gratification. The collections in the cities, as well in Belgium as in Holland, can boast that they include many of the most remarkable creations of the art of a bygone period : works , moreover , which have not found their way hither by mere accident , but grow out of the very soil, so to speak, of these Low Countries, and have their raison d'etre in the land , in those forms and fashions which to this day repeat themselves alike in the native landscape and in the habits of the people. How much more lively is the impression received from works of art when seen amidst their natural surroundings , is a matter of common and approved experience. Everything that is essentially characteristic in a picture , atmosphere and light, form, whether natural or otherwise, fashion and custom , present them- selves to the beholder. The sources of the artist's inspiration, all that served to feed his fancy, are clearly manifest; while many a characteristic incident, which would otherwise escape observation or remain altogether unintelligible, receives its requisite inter- pretation. It is true that the aesthetic value of individual pictures may be always in all places recognised. A Titian is lustrous even in St. Petersburg; Diirer's incisive pencil asserts itself in Madrid. Nevertheless the historical significance of Art, the necessary cause of her development, can be understood by those only who will explore the scenes which witnessed her life's first dawn , particu- larly when lapse of time has failed materially to alter the character of such scenes. A distinction which the Netherlands enjoy in common with Italy consists in the opportunity afforded of obtaining the best possible insight into the mysterious quickening of the artistic spirit ; a comprehensive survey, too, of art's earliest promise and maturity, and her identity with the national life. That continuity and many- sidedness of national art, which in Italy is so pronounced, the Nether- lands do not, however, possess. Twice only — once in the 15th, and once in the 17th century — do they furnish remarkable material for the history of modern art. Earlier centuries reveal a poor art life, and the intervals between the two periods referred to fail to make HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART. xxxvii any profound impression, however useful they may have been in the development of the personality of the artist. Both in the 15th and in the 17th century the artistic strength of the country devoted itself to painting. The art of the Netherlands owes its fame to the brilliant achievements of its painters. Chubches. During the centuries of the Middle Ages, art in the Netherlands did not by any means keep pace with the advance made in Germany and France : it was slow to move, and followed in the wake first of German, and later of French art. The number of Ro- manesque buildings in Belgian territory — for Holland must first be noticed in connection with the Gothic era — is not great. Of these the Cathedral of Tournai (p. 60) is the most prominent example. The influence of lower Rhenish architecture(that of Cologne), is ex- hibited in this cathedral, which, in respect of scale, surpasses all the older churches. At the same time there is an evident approxi- mation to the French style, which, after the 13th century, pervaded the entire land. It is much to be regretted that our acquaintance with the history of this church is so imperfect. Certain it is, that the present edifice was begun in thel2th century and completed in thel4th. — When in the adjacent territory of Northern France the Gothic Style had acquired completeness , the Netherlands adopted this model. The southern portion of the land now became, in the realm of architecture, a mere province of France ; and indeed French influence extended gradually to politics and culture also. Stately Gothic cathedrals rear themselves in the more considerable Belgian towns. With the church of St. Gudule in Brussels are associated the choir of the church of Notre Dame at Bruges , St. Bavon at Ghent, St. Rombaut at Maimes , the Cathedral of Louvain, and, lastly, the renowned Cathedral of Antwerp, where a lamentable want of structural harmony must be noted, more particularly in the spire, whose toppling height rather astonishes by its audacity than delights by its beauty. Although there is an evident preference for lofty towers (the double tower is seldom seen, but rather a single tower in advance of the western extremity), yet, as a rule, an endeavour to secure a spacious area visibly determines the general proportions , while the soaring height and slender support which give so marked a character to the in- teriors of the cathedrals of France and Germany, are but slightly regarded. Double aisles are frequent in the churches ; but the height of the nave seldom exceeds 80 or 90 feet, being but twice, not as was usual elsewhere, three times, the width. The Dutch churches are of similar construction. Gothic architecture was much more preva- lent in Holland than is generally supposed ; Utrecht , Amsterdam, Haarlem, Ley den , and Rotterdam, for example, possess Gothic churches on a grand scale. The building material, however, namely brick, which has been used (the Germans learned its use from the Dutch) , gives a ponderous appearance to these edifices ; while the xxxviii HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART wood covering which conceals the vaulted roof, the absence of archi- tectural ornamentation, and, finally, change in the forms of worship, have done much to destroy their original heauty. But we do not visit Holland to study ecclesiastical Gothic. Sbculaji Buildings. Of far greater interest are those Gothic buildings erected for secular and civic purposes , in which Flan- ders is especially rich. So early as the 12th century, mighty towers to serve as belfrys (p. 45) were erected in the midst of fortified towns , for the purpose of mustering the citizens by sound of bell in the event of an enemy's approach or of alarm from fire. Attached to the belfries, or erected separately, are spacious Halles. im- posing edifices, used for the display of those products of Flemish industry which were once foremost in the markets of the world. The Hotel de Ville adorns the principal square of the town. Its facade generally exhibits the wealth of decoration belonging to the later Gothic; while, in the interior, sculptor and painter found occasion for the exercise of their respective arts. The belfries at Tournai and G'/ieni, the 'halles' ot Bruges and Ypres^ and the 'hotels de ville' of Bruges , Brussels , and Louvain, call for especial notice from the traveller; and, in case he should be interested in antiquated do- mestic architecture, he will find a rich treat provided for him in Bruges and Antwerp^ once chief among Hanseatic towns. These buildings date as far back as the 15th and 16th centuries, a time when painting in the Netherlands bore its first fruits. Painting. To connect these early efforts with the power and wealth of the old Hanseatic League , and to find in the sump- tuous habits of the Burgundian Princes the chief impulse to the rapid development of the painters art in the Netherlands, is obviously natural and reasonable. How the eye of the painter must have revelled in the varied costumes, in the manifold and sharply defined types , whether of native or foreigner, which he encountered in the motley assemblage that thronged these cities of the League ! We may well conceive the artist's imagination to have been fascinated by the wealth of colour presented by a picture composed of weather-beaten mariners, sturdy labourers, burly citizens, and sagacious traders. The early practice of portrait-painting may also be attributed to the spirit prevailing in the Hanseatic towns. The interest in this branch of the painter's art originated probably in the self-complacency which naturally possesses a community of substantial burghers , proud of their vo- cations and achievements. Further, the Burgundian Princes, in the gratification of their love of splendour, found, as trustworthy accounts assure us, abundant employment for the artist as well as artizan. In their luxurious court, with its brilliant retinue, there must have been robes of state, glittering weapons , costly furniture, besides courtly manners, to captivate the eye and engage the attention of the painter. Undoubted, however, as the effect of such influences IN THE NETHERLANDS. xxxix was in giving a particular direction to painting in the Nether- lands, they assuredly were not the source from which it sprung. It was not until the painter's art was emancipated from the tram- mels of a traditional practice , that it found favour at court, and in the towns of the League. Up to the beginning of the 15th century Art was in neither a better nor worse condition than in adjacent lands, though the paint- ers of Cologne could undoubtedly claim pre-eminence. Such spe- cimens of wall-painting in the Low Countries as are still pre- served , show an entire want of professional training. The works of the miniature painters, however, rank higher. Encouraged by com- missions from French Princes , they were elaborately finished , and both in colour and drawing give evidence of a higher education in the artists. Sculpture , too , could boast of sterling work. If any general inference is to be drawn from monumental effigies preserved in Tournai, and dating from the beginning of the 15th century, a school of sculpture existed there, which successfully aimed at a truthful rendering of nature. The practice of painting works of sculpture brought the sister arts into more intimate relation. So far, however, was sculpture in advance, that painters found them- selves reduced to the expedient of adopting the plastic mode of treatment in the disposal of groups, as well as in drawing and the treatment of drapery. A long interval elapsed ere painting acquired a style of its own, and until every trace of the plastic relief had dis- appeared. Such was the condition of the painter's art in the Nether- lands, when the two brothers Van Eyck made their appearance , but we are not in a position to indicate their immediate predecessors, nor to determine with certainty the circumstances of their early training. The two brothers Van Eyck were natives of Maaseyck, near Mastricht, where Hubert, the elder, was born somewhere about the years 1360-70. Wolfram von Eschenbach, in his 'Perze- val', had already pronounced the painters of Maastricht and Cologne to be the best of his time, but how painting at Maastricht or Limburg was employed in Hubert's time we know not. Absolutely nothing is known of the course of Hubert's early training, of his school, or early works. About the year 1420 , we find him settled at Ghent, where a guild of painters had already long existed, along with his brother. Whether while here he was the teacher or the taught, whether the local influences of Ghent first modified his conceptions and method, or whether the guild in Ghent derived new light from him, cannot be determined. We know of only one work from Hubert van Eyck's hand, indisputably identified as his, and it was painted in the concluding years of his life , and left by him un- finished. This is the gigantic Altarpiece which Jodocus Vyts com- missioned him to paint for the St. Bavon church in Ghent. In it he still clings to the traditional rules of composition in the observance of the severely-symmetrical proportions of an architectural struc- xl HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART ture. But while he fails to dispose the crowd of figures in separate groups, he succeeds in giving to the heads a portrait-like indi- viduality ; he is careful to render the varied texture of the draperies, and in modelling the nude figure he closely imitates nature in every minute particular. For example, in the figure of Adam (now detached from the original picture and preserved along with Eve in the Brussels Museum, p. 89), even the short hairs of the arms and legs are carefully elaborated. But the most surprising innovation is in the colouring , to which he gave wonderful force and harmony, using it to give efi'ect to an appearance of reality almost deceptive. The old belief that Huhert invented oil-painting cannot indeed he unreservedly accepted. But, although oil had long been in use as a vehicle, Hubert's merit is not the less conspicuous. He is still the first who adapted the invention to the purposes of art, by employing the fluid medium for the more subtle blending of colours. By this means he so far facilitated the process of painting, that the endea- vour to give a faithful, life-like rendering of nature was com- pletely successful. He possessed himself of the means by which alone effect could be given to the new impulse in art. We can have no better proof of the importance attached to this new method of painting introduced by Hubert , than in the sensation it made in Italy, where the invention and its publication were invested with the attributes of romance. Hubert's connection with his brother Jan van £yck (born 1381 -1395) is involved in some obscurity , but the latter came to be regarded as the more capable of the two. Unjustly so, however, as the younger brother with his own hand bears record, in an inscription on the Altar-piece at Ghent , in these words : 'Hubertus — major quo nemo repertus', — thus showing that Hubert was at least his equal. We are, at the same time, very imperfectly informed of Jan's early training, though we know a good deal about his public career. While Hubert, it would appear, found favour with the wealthy burghers of Ghent, Jan took service in the courts, first of John of Bavaria, afterwards of Philip the Good. He lived for some years at the Hague, later in Lille, and after Hubert's death removed to Ghent, in order to finish the Altar-piece. In 1432 he migrated to Bruges, where he died on 9th July, 1440, about fourteen years after his brother. His peculiar art can best be studied in Bruges ; not that many of his works are to be found there, but that the self- same genius still pervades the place which inspired the school of early Flemish painters. Bruges still remains outwardly very much what it was in the 16th century. The old houses have lost nothing of their character and dignity by contact with the newer buildings which have sprung up in their midst ; while , in the quiet of the comparatively-forsaken thoroughfares, there is nothing to disturb the wanderer in quest of reminiscences of the Bruges of bygone days. Just as Nuremberg, some half-century ago, vividly re- IN THE NETHERLANDS, xll called the age of Diirer, so in Bruges a perfectly clear conception may still be had of the period which witnessed the labours of the Eycks and Memling. But, in any case , two admirable works by Jan yan Eyck in the Academy at Bruges afford a valuable opportunity of appreciating his art. In keeping with a strong determination towards a more portrait-like and realistic conception of nature, is the endeavour, observable in his method , after a greater fulness of outline and an exact rendering of textures. The direction of his aim is indicated by the fact of his having painted genre pictures with a definite motive — the 'Bath-room' for example. There can be no doubt that Jan van Eyck had pupils ; but there can be as little doubt that there were painters, both in Ghent and Bruges, who adopted Van Eyck's method, and imitated his style, though not recognised as members of his school. Owing to the scanty information possessed of art in the Netherlands during the 15th century, nothing can be conclusively affirmed on the sub- ject. Petrus Cristus may be mentioned as a pupil of Jan van Eyck, at Bruges ; as independent masters Gerard van der Metre and Hugo van der Goes, of Ghent. The people were as averse to centralisation in the domain of art-training as in the conduct of state affairs. While the Van Eycks were carrying their art from the Valley of the Meuse to Bruges and Ghent , another great artist was founding a school of painting at Brussels. Roger van der We yden is apparently identical with that Rogelet de la Pasture who, in 1426, worked as a pupil of Robert Campin atTournai, and in 1432 was admitted as master in the Paint- ers' guild. We find Van der Weyden installed as painter to the town of Brussels in 1436. In 1450 he appears in Rome, as the first north- ern painter of undisputed fame whose name was honoured by the Italians, uncompromising though he was in adhering to the practice of his native art. On his return he again took up his abode in Brussels, still painting, and died in 1464. In the absence of any signature, his works are confounded with those of Jan van Eyck, with, whom he had nothing in common , and with those of Memling, who was his pupil. They are, moreover, scattered far and near, and have to be sought for at Madrid, Rome, Frankfort, Munich, Berlin, etc. The Museum of Antwerp, however, possesses in the Seven Sacra- ments one of the most prominent works of this master, who was peculiarly successful in depicting scenes of dramatic interest (Descent from the Cross) ; too often, however, his power of animated expression betrays a want of feeling for beauty of form , and is continually suggestive of tinted reliefs. Hans Memling, the pupil of Van der Weyden , bears the least possible resemblance to him. According to a legend, which in earlier times received general credence, Memling, having been wounded at the battle of Nancy, was carried to Bruges , where , in gratitude for the tender care bestowed upon him in the Hospital of St. John, he xlii HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART painted numerous pictures. This story may be placed in the same category as those of Diirer's malevolent spouse, and of the licent- iousness of the later Dutch painters. Memling was born (at Mom- lingen near Aschaffenburg) about the year 1430; was, in 1472, already actively engaged as painter ; in 1478 was permanently estab- lished in Bruges, a well-to-do house proprietor in the Vlaminckdamm (now Rue St. George), and died in 1495. The little we know of him personally is in some measure compensated for by the great number of his works still extant. Bruges, in particular, can boast of possessing literally a Memling museum. In the Academy is the Triptych with the St. Christopher, in the Hospital of St. John the so-called St. John Altar , the Adoration of the Magi , the Madonna with Martin Nieuwenhoven, the portrait of Catharine Moreel, and, finally, the Ursula casket, the most ornate and captivating illustration of legend- ary lore bequeathed by the art of this early period. In Memling, in- deed, it may be said the school of Van Eyck exhibits its highest at- tainments. Pure and luminous colouring is combined with correct drawing ; a keen perception of Nature with a coherent sense of the beautiful. Crowe and Cavalcaselle, in their history of old Flemish Painters, speak of Memling as a lyric bard, and if his forms lack ideality, he knows how to give them the impress of a winsome beauty. His Madonnas, whose golden hair falls over the shoulders , or is gathered up in luxuriant tresses, combine dignity with loveliness. Painting flourished in the 15th century in Holland no less than in the southern Netherlands, though the earlier masters, such as Albert van Ouwater^ are represented but by few works. A more tangible personality is that oiDierick Bouts [iAQb-i Alb), who removed from Haarlem to Louvain, and with his industrious pencil announced the fundamental characteristic of Dutch painting, in his delicate appre- ciation of landscape beauty. Gerard David, of Bruges (1484-1523), in the S., and Jaco& Cornelissen or Jacob van Oostzanen (ca. 1480- 1533), in the N., may be regarded as offshoots of the older school. Both are fine colourists and distinguished for the tender sweetness of their female figures. Dramatic conception was foreign to both. We have, indeed, abundant cause to deplore the ravages of time, when we proceed to sum up the number of authenticated old Flemish pictures still in existence. Scarcely, indeed, do we possess mementoes of ten painters , such as enable us to form a really distinct and vivid conception of their character as artists ; yet this old Netherlands school was busy for eighty years ; nor was its activity confined to Bruges and Ghent alone, but was shared by Ant- werp, Brussels, and in the North by Leyden and Haarlem. One im- portant cause of this absence of reliable accounts lay in the new direction taken by the Netherlands school of painting in the 16th century, which had the effect of depreciating the works of their predecessors in the general estimation , and finally of committing them to oblivion. For the Netherlands , like the rest of the North, J IN THE NETHERLANDS. xliu became subject to the spirit of the Italian Renaissance. Under the Burgundian rule, literature had already been alienated from the popular sympathies, and even so it was now with pictorial art. Lu- cas van Leyden , and Quinten Massys, of Antwerp (1460-1531), are the last distinguished masters who were not carried away by this current. The importance of the former, however, is chiefly due to his admirable engravings ; while Massys sometimes displays a vigour of sentiment at variance with the hitherto habitual concep- tion. Qiiinten Massys is, indeed, generally regarded as the connect- ing link between the old school of the Van Eycks and Rubens. The influence of the Renaissance reached the Netherlands, as it reached Germany, in the 16th century. In the domains of Architec- ture and Sculpture the ensuing breach with previous native styles seems to have been less abrupt than in the domain of painting. The narrow Gothic house, with its stepped gable, long held its ground; and although Italian modes of ornamentation attained the ascendancy in the first half of the 16th century, yet in the second half the na- tional genius powerfully reasserted itself [RoUwork). Among the most important Renaissance buildings in the Netherlands are the Salm Inn at Malines (p. 136) and the old Maison de VAncien Greffe at Bruges (p. 24). The Town Halls of the Hague, Leyden, and Amsterdam, the old Meai Market at Haarlem (p. 296), and the Weigh House at Nymegen (p. 380) belong to the later period. The Netherlands are peculiarly rich in decorative works in wood, stone, and brass. The monuments of Count Engelbert of Nassau and his wife, in the Groote Kerk at Breda, and that of Archbishop William ofCroy, in the church of the Capucins atEnghien (p. 69), are among the finest productions of Renaissance art in the north of Europe. The chimney-pieces (Bruges), carved stalls (Dordrecht), and altars (Hal) must also not be forgotten. The Musee Plantin at Antwerp contains an interesting collection of Renaissance furniture. The Flemish Painters of the Renaissance produce a less favour- able impression. The Italian forms and even colours found no response in the inmost spirit of the Flemish painters, and the result is often mere frigid prettiness or artificial idealisation. Just as we prefer the popular ballad to the Latin verse of our school days, so we prize the unadorned Flemish style more highly than unsuccessful imitations of the Italian. The 16th century was, it is true, of a different way of thinking, and hailed this inroad of the Renaissance upon their native art as a sign of progression 1 Antwerp especially was for a long time the capital of art in the Netherlands, whence Duke "William of Bavaria, as well as the Emperor Rudolph II., the two most enlightened patrons of art among German princes, supplied their requirements ; while Flemings, too, provided for England's needs. It is evident, then, that the Netherlands had no lack of renown nor yet of highly-gifted spirits, whose achievements, had a more auspicious fate attended them, would have been considerable. xliy HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART The earlier pictures of Jan Gossaert, surnamed Van Mabeuge or Mabuse (1470-1541 ), please by force of their masterly modelling and intense colouring. Bernard van Orley (1488-1541) turned his resi- dence in Rome to good account in mastering the style oftheRaphael- esque school, which both in composition and drawing he reproduced with considerable cleverness. If we can praise the industry only of Michael van Coxie or Coxcyen (1499-1592), and find the insipidity in conception and the exaggeration of form in the work of Frans de Vriendt, surnamed PZoris (1520-70), simply repulsive; if, again, Karel van Mander is famous principally for his literary acquire- ments, and Hubert Goltzius for his versatility, still one branch of the art remains in which the Flemings achieved and sustained a marked success, viz. Portraiture, represented in the 16th century by Jan van Scorel or Schooreel (1495-1562), Ant. Moor (1512- 1576), the elder Peter Pourbus (1540-1580), and Geldorp. The earliest approaches to genre and landscape painting which later at- tained to such majestic proportions must not be allowed to escape observation. Their germs are, in fact, already to be detected in the works of Van Eyck. The principle of a careful study of Nature, and delight in every phase of life, early asserted itself, giving to every object, however insignificant, however obscure, an artistic charm. The painting of still life, the pourtraying of those humorous incidents, never wanting in domestic experience, which served to illustrate every- day life among the people, came early into vogue, though at first dis- agreeably qualified by the intermixture of the grotesque (in the shape of Devils' dances). Old Brueghel (see below) and Vinck-Boons had already painted rustic subjects, Patinir of Dinant and PaulBril land- scapes, with richness of effect, and EocZanf Savery animal pictures. Among all these painters, the members of the family of Brueghel or, as sometimes written, Breughel, attract our interest most effectually. They not only afford the most striking example of that highly propitious practice, the hereditary prosecution of the same craft, but also excellently illustrate the transition from the old to the new style of art. Peter Brueghel the elder, or ^ Peasant BruegheV (about 1525-69), the earliest representative of this race of paint- ers, travelled in Italy for the purpose of studying art, but re- mained faithful to the subjects and treatment of his native land. His figures are of a purely Flemish type, while his delicate colour- ing is content to reveal the study of nature in northern climes alone. Of his two sons Peter or 'Hell-fire' Brueghel (1565-1637) and Jan or 'Velvet'' Brueghel (1568-1678), the latter, who acquir- ed his surname from his partiality for wearing velvet, is the more important. He acquired eminence not only in paying homage to the widely-extended national taste for flower-pieces, but also by his landscapes, which are distinguished for the tender bluish tone of their middle distance and background (not, however, always true to nature), and for the marvellous finish of detail in the smal I IN THE NETHERLANDS. xlv figures occupying the foreground. The sons of the two brothers bore the same Christian names as their fathers, followed the same pro- fession, and perpetuated the manner of the Brueghels down to the close of the 17th century. All previous attainments, however, sink into insignificance beside the extraordinary capacity displayed by the Flemish artists of the 17th century. The eighty years' revolt of the Dutch against Spanish oppres- sion was at an end. Though bleeding from a thousand wounds, the youthful Republic had triumphantly maintained itself, and con- quered for itself virtual recognition. Two worlds separate and distinct from one another were here compressed into their narrow confines. In the still Spanish Netherlands , forming the Southern division, the old regime in politics as in faith remained intact ; in the States General of Holland, not only was a new form of government estab- lished, but new political and economical views, and a new form of faith, were in the ascendant. Both these worlds find in contemporary art a clearly- defined expression. The art of Peter Paul Rubens serves to glorify the ancient regime and the ancient faith , and was by this means in effect assimilated to the art of Italy, and beguiled by the mythological ideal. Dutch art, on the other hand, grew out of the new life and the new faith, and thus reflects the provincialism and civic pretensions which now became the characteristic features of the body politic. Here the schools of Haarlem, the Hague, Leyden, Delft, and Amsterdam, possess equal merit. Historical pictures are superseded by portrait groups of the civic functionaries and rulers ; the veil of mystery is withdrawn from the representation of sacred subjects, and, in its place, abare matter-of-fact and modernised treat- ment is introduced , in conformity with the Protestant views of the 16th and 17th centuries, which regarded the Bible in a very different light from the old Church. An historical notice of the condition of national culture would not in itself serve to throw much light on the relations of Flemish and Dutch painting of the 17th century, but is , notwithstanding , not altogether superfluous. Such a study would be the means of putting in its true light, the contrast, so often overlooked, between Rubens and the Dutchmen. Irrespective of mu<5h superficial resemblance (e. g. a similar tone of colour), the two styles have entirely different sources and aims ; and while in the school of Rubens the old notions, old practices, disappeared, that art began to reveal itself in Holland which to this day is re- ceived with unqualified approbation. In the study of Rubens, the mind must frequently be guided by reference to history ; the Dutch, on the other hand, we hail as bone of our bone, and flesh of our flesh. Rubens. For centuries Cologne and Antwerp have contended for the hon- our of having given birth to the greatest of Belgian painters. Lat- terly, however, their claims have been surrendered in favour of the xlvi HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART little town of Siegen , formerly in Nassau. Our artist's father , the Antwerp justice Johannes Rubens, being suspected of a leaning to- wards the Reformation, sought refuge in flight from the Spanish Inquisition, and joined the party of William of Orange. Arrived at the Rhine, where the emigrants assembled, he formed an inti- macy with Anna of Saxony, the crazy, sensuous wife of William, of such a nature as furnished the Prince with sufficient grounds for a divorce. The guilty lover was consigned in 1571 to the fortress Dillenburg. His wife, Marie Pypeling , who had followed him into exile, was induced by the severity of his punishment to forgive the offender the disgrace he had brought upon her, and to join him at Siegen, the place assigned to him in 1573 as his abode. Here accordingly, on 29th June, 1577, on SS. Peter and Paul's day, Peter Paul Bnbens was born. In the following year, John Rubens received permission to remove to Cologne. It is con- ceivable that his lot should have damped his ardour for service with the Princes of Orange, and encouraged a desire to be reconciled to the Spanish government. John Rubens , however , died pending the negotiations which ensued, but his wife finally made her peace with the Spanish ecclesiastical authorities, returned in 1588 to Ant- werp , and as a pledge for the genuineness of her conversion placed her son in a Jesuit school. In the character of the man, however, there was nothing Jesuitical ; but in the sensuous splendour of his religious pictures, in the accessories of his classical representations, which however brilliant are often superficial , it is easy to discern the effects of his training in the then flourishing schools of the all powerful Jesuits. He received instruction in painting from Adam van Noort, a thorough master of his art as we are assured, though no authenticated works of his are preserved, and from Otho van Veen, commonly called Otho Vaenius, court-painter to the Dukes of Parma, and an ar- tist more distinguished for erudition than force of imagination. The Trinity and the Holy Family with the Parrot ('La Vierge an Perroquet') in Antwerp Museum are reckoned among the first of Rubens's works. If this be really the case the painter must have developed some of his peculiar characteristics at a surprisingly early period , and to a great extent have acquired his style before his sojourn in Italy. In the year 1600, Rubens undertook, accord- ing to the then prevailing custom with artists, who looked upon Italy as the high school of art, a journey to the South. The follow- ing year we find him in the service of Duke Vincenzo Gonzaga , in his time the most pleasure-loving, most enthusiastic connoisseur of all princes. Rubens was sent in 1603 to Spain, as bearer of costly gifts, in the shape more particularly of numerous pictures, to the court of King Philip III. On his return he took up his abode suc- cessively in Mantua, Rome, and Genoa, until the year 1608, when the returned home. IN THE NETHERLANDS. xlvii Now what did Rubens bear away as the fruits of his eight years* residence in Italy? It is of no great moment that several of his pictures savour of Italian prototypes; in his celebrated Descent from the Cross, we see a reflection of Daniele da Volterra's picture, in the Baptism of Christ (lost), of which the original drawing is pre- served, he produces single figures from Michael Angelo's battle- cartoon ; the Communion of St. Francis recalls a composition of Annibale Carracci ; while a work of Titian served as model for the battle of the Amazons. It is of greater importance that Rubens was fortified by his Italian experiences in his resolution to rely mainly on ideas engendered by the study of mythological-historical subjects for his inspiration , and to devote his art to their illustration. By this means he establishes a bond of union between the art of Italy and that of the North, without in any wise sacrificing his individual- ity. Rather does a comparison with contemporary Italian painters show how far he surpassed them in virtue of his spontaneous sym- pathies and the abounding force of his character. Rubens, married in 1609 to Isabella Brandt, and again, after her death (1626), to Helena Fourment^ in 1630, had settled in Antwerp, where he led an uncommonly active life. As he himself assures us, while in the service of the Regent Albrecht and his consort Isabella, he had one foot always in the stirrup, making repeated trips to London, Paris, and Madrid, and devoting as much of his time to politics as to art. Certainly the varied occupations of his life are not to be discovered in the astounding number of his works. Nearly a thousand pictures , many of them of colossal dimensions, bear his name. This amazing fertility may be explained by the circumstance that the numerous pupils who frequented his workshop were em- ployed upon his pictures, and that he himself possessed wonderful rapidity ot execution. It is not an easy matter to render justice to Rubens in all cases, partly because so many works have been attri- buted to him with which he had very little to do, partly, also, be- cause his rendering of form frequently took directions repugnant to our modern notions. Perhaps in his manner of treating the female form only he can be charged with flagrant want of taste. The ca- pacity of depicting the unsullied purity of maiden beauty is one of the attributes in an artist we most prize, while , on the other hand, we naturally recoil from the spectacle of naked females disfigured by the labours of maternity. Nevertheless, we must not forget that in these coarse unwieldy shapes, in the ponderous limbs and violent action of these female forms so constantly recurring in Rubens' pic- tures, we behold the direct manifestation of such impassioned energies and irrepressible vitality as the master seeks to embody. Rubens' earlier pictures have this marked superiority over his later works, that with all their depth and warmth of colouring, they preserve a certain unity, and exhibit a broad but careful finish. The most important of the works executed soon after his return from xlviii HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART Italy is unhappily no longer in the possession of his native land, but rests in the Belvedere collection at Vienna. The central portion represents St. Ildephons receiving a rich chasuble from the Virgin ; on the wings are portraits of the donors , and on the outside the Rest on the Flight into Egypt, or the Virgin under the apple-tree. The painter is here seen at the apex of his artistic excellence, and never subsequently produced so perfect a work in so lofty a style. So long as Italian models were fresh in his mind his imagination and his sense of form were chastened and refined, but at a later period they were not unfrequently somewhat too exuberant. Of similar beauty is the Doubting Thomas in the Museum at Antwerp, with the two accompanying portraits of Burgomaster Rockox and his wife. The celebrated Descent from the Cross in the Cathedral and the Crucifixion in the Museum ("Le Coup de Lance') are also of the highest value as undoubtedly works of the artist's own hand. In his later large ecclesiastical paintings Rubens availed him- self to a large extent of the assistance of his pupils ; so that a less exalted idea of the master than he deserves may be derived from the study of these pictures. Another circumstance may help to lead the traveller in the Netherlands to a similar conclusion. Owing to the wide-spread renown of the artist, his works did not all remain at home, but found their way, even in his lifetime, far and wide. England, Madrid, Paris, Munich, Vienna, and St, Petersburg con- tain, in their respective galleries, many of Rubens' choicest works. The Antwerp Museum, however, preserves a whole series of valuable pictures by the master, thus affording an opportunity of studying him on the spot where he achieved greatness. Though, however, it may not be possible to find unalloyed satisfaction in separate works of the master, no one can deny that Rubens is a figure of great historical importance. This is owing to the fidelity, with which he has adhered to the traditions of the national art, to the power, with which he has harmonised these traditions with an altered condition of art and life, and to the uni- versality which rendered him capable of working in every depan- ment and of making the age subservient to his purposes. He is master of the whole range of artistic material. To the greatest fer- tility in the domains of ecclesiastical art he adds an intelligent and enthusiastic appreciation of the ancient gods and heroes. He looks upon these latter more with the eye of a Virgil than of a Homer, and often depicts them in the spirit of an orator rather than in that of a poet. He shows that he has most affinity for the fleshy figures of the Bacchic myths, and paints them with a freshness and energy possessed by none of his contemporaries. His brush is as much at home in important historical compositions as in the richly-coloured allegories, by which his age tried to make up to itself for the want of genuine poetic sensibility. He paints alike portraits and land- scapes, the battles of men and the fighting of brutes, the gallant IN THE NETHERLANDS. xlix love-making of the noble and the coarse pleasures of the vulgar. This versatility is peculiarly his own , although he possesses cer- tain characteristics in common v^ith his contemporaries, just as he shares with them the same national atmosphere and the same tra- ditionary precepts. Rubens occupied this field along with several other painters. No wonder, then, that similar characteristics are observable in his works and those of others , and that they so closely resemble one another as occasionally to be confounded. Abraham Janssens [1587- 1631) comes very near to Rubens in freedom of brush and in the impassioned action of his figures. Indeed there were few of Rubens' contemporaries who escaped his influence, pervading as it did the whole field of art, inspiring in an especial manner the engraver. The most notable of Antwerp artists who were contempo- raries of Rubens are Oerard Seghers (1591-1651), Theodore Rom- houts (1597-1637), Gaspar de Crayer (1584-1669), who evinced in his quiet compositions a charming vein of thought , and Lucas van TJden (1595-1662), who painted in many instances the land- scape in the background of Rubens' pictures , as well as Frans Snyders (1597-1657), who placed his extraordinary talent for ani- mal painting at the disposal of the great chief. Of Rubens's most distinguished disciple, Anthony Van Dyck (born at Antwerp 1599, died in London 1641), owing to tho shortness of his sojourn in his native city, few important works are retained. After being initiated in painting first by Henry van Balen, later by Rubens, he visited Italy in his 24th year, where Genoa especially fascinated him , as it had done his master before him. From 1626 to 1632 he lived at Antwerp, after that in London, in the service of Charles I. It was not only the fashion then prevailing in aristocratic circles which engaged Van Dyck in portraiture. Portraiture made the strongest appeal to his proclivities as an artist. He does not shine in the invention of gorgeous or stirring scenes ; but in the refined and animated pour- trayal of distinguished personages in particular , there are few who are his peers. His portraits are not only instinct with life : they fascinate by their dignity of conception and grace of delineation, which, without sacrifice of truthfulness, impart a certain stateliness as well as beauty to the individual represented. In what a rare degree Van Dyck possessed this faculty is best seen in his admirable etchings which are still preserved, and in which he presents us with an invaluable gallery of portraits illustrative of the 17th century. Of the remaining pupils of Rubens , few acquired distinction ; but, owing to the copiousness of their works , they are by no means unimportant. They occupy in the department ofreligiousartthe entire century. From Diepenbeeck, Erasmus Quellinus, and Cornelis Schut^ Jacob Jordaens (1593-1673) may be distinguished by a marked individuality. No study in Italy had estranged his thoughts from his Baeukiceb's Belgium and Holland. 12th Edit. d 1 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART native art. His profession of the reformed faith made him unwilling to contribute to the exaltation of the Church's ideal, so he applied himself to depicting scenes from domestic life and the unrestrained mirth of popular festivities, and thus prepared the way for the for- mation of that school of genre painting, in which the art of the Netherlands subsequently acquired its chief renown. His often- repeated pictures of the crazy house-concert ('as the old ones sang, so will the youngsters twitter'), for example, are well known. Jor- daens's humour is unsophisticated ; his figures are as devoid of grace, as they well can be ; but so surpassing is the quality of colour in his pictures that one must cor ilone the vein of almost coarse vulgarity which runs through very many of them. Pictures by him at the Bosch, near the Hague, which celebrate the deeds of Prince Frederick Henry of Orange, show what he could accomplish as an historical painter, and belong to the very best contributions of the entire school. — Among the less-known though by no means unimportant pupils of Rubens is Jan van den Hoecke (1598-1651 ), who in delineat- ing scenes of quiet feeling runs his master very hard and, indeed, is not unfrequently mistaken for him. Even upon David Teniers (1610-1685), the greatest genre painter to whom the southern Netherlands have given birth, Rubens exercised an enduring influence. The fairs and rustic scenes which he delighted in depicting , fascinate not only by the spirit of con- viviality which animates them, but bear witness to a searching ob- servation of nature ; and the subtlety of colouring serves of itself to invest the scenes depicted with a true poetic charm. In gradation of tone, in wondrous harmony of colour, in artistic combination, he retains an undisputed supremacy. It is not less wonderful how he can by the most delicate modifications so manipulate a dominant tone of colour as to make it effective, and how he can at his pleasure either assert or dispense with the most marked contrasts. The pictures of his fortieth year, where the peculiar silvery tone first appears , are those which afford the best insight into this painter's method and style. His works are unfortunately widely scattered, and are rarely to be met with in his native country. The same may be said of the majority of genre painters of the southern Netherlands. The neighbourhood of France lured away, if not the painters themselves, certainly many of their works ; nor were either wealth or love of art at this time sufficiently diffused in Bel- glum to allow of the creations of native art being retained in the land. In this respect painting was more advantageously circum- stanced in Holland. There it was unmistakably associated with the people, and to this day indeed is identified with their habits and predilections. The greater number as well as the best of its pro- ductions are still retained in Holland, coveted though they be by the lovers of art from every quarter , who at last have learned to estimate them at their true value. IN THE NETHERLANDS. U Bembrandt. The grandeur of the 17th century school of Dutch painters has partially obscured the excellencies of their predecessors, and thrown into the shade what was of sterling value in the Dutch school be- fore Rembrandt's time. It is only in recent times that research has succeeded in bringing to light the earlier history of Dutch painting, and has surrounded Rembrandt, who hitherto had dazzled as the flash of a meteor in the horizon, with precursors and associates. Art flourished in the Dutch towns as early as the 15th century, but it would be more than difficult to separate it from the con- temporaneous art of Flanders; indeed, owing to the similarity of the two peoples, no very essential diiference could have existed. When, accordingly, at the beginning of the 16th century, painting in the North became Italianised, the Dutch painters succumbed to the prevailing influence. It must be noted, however, that the parti- cular manner which most nearly responded to the national taste was generally preferred , and most successfully Imitated; that of Caravaggio, for example, distinctly coarse as it is in its broad realism. After Karel van Mander, Heemskerck, and Bloemaert, exponents of a more imaginative treatment, came Honthorst (Gherardo delta Notte) and his associates , whose art was entirely based upon this realism. These painters fearlessly grapple with nature ; they con- cern themselves little about grace and beauty ; they do not despise what is vulgar and repulsive , if only it supplies life and energy. Lamp-light, abounding as it does in glaring contrast, served ad- mirably to enforce startling effects and an impassioned exuberance of expression often bordering upon distortion, and was freely resorted to with evident relish. Along with Caravaggio , another artist had considerable influence upon the Dutchmen, viz. Adam Elsheimer (1578-1620), of Frankfort, who, however, lived and died in Rome. He painted as if nature were only to be seen through a ca- mera obscura ; but his pictures are harmonised by the utmost mi- nuteness and indescribable delicacy of finish , and receive their compensating breadth from a masterly management of colour. Last- man, Poelenburg, Goudt, etc., learned from him. In the desperate struggle during the 16th century vnth the two- fold yoke of Spain , artistic enterprise in the Netherlands was ne- cessarily crippled. It is principally owing to this circumstance that so many Dutch painters found their way to Italy, and there com- pleted the training which their native land , sorely distracted as it was, could not afford them. But just as the Netherlands finally came forth from their eighty years' struggle as glorious victors , and in corresponding measure secured for themselves wealth and politi- cal power, while their antagonist, Spain, once mistress of the world, but now hopelessly impoverished , subsided into political insigni- ficance, Dutch Art received during and at the conclusion of the war its noblest impulse. It was now that the painters of the Netherlands d* Ui HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART were enabled correctly to discern what , amidst all the surrounding wealth of material , was best suited to their needs, and what form most strongly appealed to them ; they created, in a word, a national art. The war had made a nation of heroes. Stern necessity had steeled their courage and quickened their sense. Brave men, experienced in war as well as state affairs , pious of heart , yet joyous withal , met the eye at every turn. To pourtray these, not only as single and im- pressive personalities , but assembled in groups , in the council- chamber, or sallying forth to the tilting ground, or engaged in festive celebrations , was the artist's favourite task. Pictures of a peaceful , happy life , the charms of existence amidst privacy and comfort, were doubly attractive in a time so heavily charged with fateful events. The pleasurable abandonment too, which, taking no thought for the morrow, is content to enjoy the passing hour, captivated the imagination and furnished material for numerous paintings. But the victorious Netherlanders not only created for themselves a new field of pictorial matter, in which national sentiment should find expression ; the appropriate form of expression was also provided. Though nearly all theDutch painters are great colourists, some indispensable attributes of the artistic faculty are wholly wanting in them. The single figures lack ideal grace, the groups do not conform to the rules of perspective. On the other hand, they know how to impart such an artistic charm by means of colour alone, as effectually compensates for these defects. The use of the word 'compensate', however, may mislead. It must not be inferred that any particular means of expression can singly avail in painting. The Italians are guided by established laws in the disposal of individual figures , as well as in composition, and rightly so ; for these laws were the product of their particular cul- ture and habits of mind. With equal right, however, the Dutch painters framed for themselves rules for the guidance of their art in harmony with national views and sentiments. It must not be supposed that these Dutchmen , after they had carefully completed the drawing of a picture, were content to overlay their pictures with colour for the sake of mere beauty of effect. They thought, they felt in colour, and composed in colour. The delicate gradation of colour, the disposal of light and shade in the mass, and chiaroscuro, are their natural means of expression. It is a matter of common observation that colour beautifies many an object which without it would be utterly insignificant, and to such objects the Dutch artists knew how to impart an ideal charm by the modulation of colour- tone. Household furniture, for example, was highly valued by the Dutchmen. In its carefully- ordered splendour and subdued brightness were reflected the delights of peaceful domestic life. Applied to art-purposes, it transcended meaner objects only in so far as it was richer in colours than they : and thus it was with scenes from every-day life , which were in like manner idealised IN THE NETHERLANDS. liii by this mysteriouwits chery of colouring. It is impossible to convey in mere words any adequate idea of tlie effect of colour thus wielded. The eye alone can comprehend it, and has its opportunity in the study of the various galleries of Holland. The ^BegenV and '■Doelen^ pictures are among the most conspicuous creations of the Dutch school of painters. It was the custom for the presidents (Regents) of the various corporations , public and charitable institutions, to place in the guild-halls and shooting galleries (Doelen) portraits in groups of members of the various guilds , especially of the shooting societies. Among the earliest pictures of this kind are the Commemoration Banquet of Bowmen, painted by Cornelis Teunissen ( Anihonissen) ^ in Amsterdam (1533), another from the same hand dated 1557, and one by Dirck Jacobsz painted in 1529 (the last two in the Ryks Museum); but it was later than this that the 'Regent-pieces' acquired their complete ar- tistic significance. The Haarlem Museum possesses a 'Corporation- picture' by Cornelis Cornelissen, dating from 1583, and four similar pieces by Frans Pieterssen Grebber, the later of which are specially distinguished by the freshness of their colouring. In the hospital of Delft is a 'Regent-piece' by that prolific portrait-painter Michael van Mierevelt (born in Delft, 1568; died 1641), who has been erroneously described as painter to William of Orange (assassinated 1584). It is a so-called anatomical lecture, in the painting of which Mierevelt's son, Peter, took part. Jacob Gerritsz Cuypf, founder of the painters' guild in Dordrecht, and Paul Moreelse, a pupil of Mierevelt, do not appear to have attempted the execution of the 'Regent' pictures proper ; the greater is the number thereof to be ascribed to Thomas de Keyset (ca. 1596-1667; Amsterdam) and Ja7i van Ravesteyn (ca. 1572-1657). Thomas de Keyser was the son of an architect of Amsterdam, Hendrik de Keyser, and began to paint in 1619. His masterpieces are preserved in the Ryks Museum in Amsterdam, and the gallery of the Hague. In the town-hall of the Hague, too, his contemporary, Jan van Ravesteyn can best be stud- ied, in his fine corporation-pieces of 1616-18. But the treatment of the 'Regent' pictures and portrait groups generally was brought to its highest perfection first by Frans Hals, of Haarlem (p. Iviii), and more especially by that greatest of all the painters of the north, Rem- brandt. Among the most important portrait-painters of Amsterdam in the pre-Rembrandt period are Dirck Barentsz (1534-92), a pupil of Titian ; Cornelis Ketel (1548-1616); Aert Pietersen (1550-1612; son of Pieter Aertsen'), of whose works the Ryks Museum possesses large examples dating from 1599 and 1603 ; Cornelis van der Voort (1576-1624), highly thought of by his contemporaries ; Werner van t The termination 'szen' or 'szoon', abbreviated 'sz', whicli occiirs so frequently in Flemish names, signifies son; thus Qerritsz = son of Ger- hard, Harmensz = son of Harmen or Herman. liv HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART Valckert, a pupil of Goltzius, who painted in 1620-27 at Amster- dam; and Nicolaes Elias (1590-1650), master of Van der Heist, •whose fine corporation-pieces are now seen to advantage in the Ryks Museum. Slandered and grossly abused as Rembrandt has been by dilet- tanti scribes of the 18th century, the enthusiastic eulogium bestowed upon him by the youthful Goethe must be noticed as an ex- ceptional tribute. It is only in quite recent times that the research- es of Dutch savants, particularly of Scheltema, Vosmaerf, De Roever, and Bredius, undertaken in a spirit of affectionate devotion, have vindicated the truth concerning him. Rembrandt Harmensz van Ryn, the son of a miller of Leyden, was born probably in 1G07. That he first saw light in his father's mill is a story for which there is as little foundation as that he first studied art amongst his father's flour sacks. Jacob Swanenburgh, v^ho had studied in Italy, and was married to a Neapolitan, B.n6. Peter Lastman were his first instructors. His earliest recognised work bears the date 1627; he removed to Amsterdam at the end of 1631. Amsterdam had gradually outstripp- ed the other towns of the Republic , and had become virtually its capital, ascendant not only in the domain of politics, but prescribing also the direction to be given to the study of art. A new and stately architecture, which subsequently exercised extraordinary influence in Germany, testifies to the splendour of the town at that period. Vondel, Huygens, and Hooft represent the muse of Poetry , while numerous engravers and painters, of whom several connected them- selves later with Rembrandt, such as S. Koninck, Livens, and Van Vliet, found employment in Amsterdam. Rembrandt very soon made himself famous as an artist ; fortune smiled upon him, too, in his love affairs. From the year 1633 the face of a good-tempered, handsome woman appears from time to time in his pictures. This is Saskia van Vlenburgh, the daughter of a Friesland lawyer, whom he brought home as his bride in 1634. The numerous portraits of Saskia , painted by the great artist with evi- dent gusto, have familiarised us with her countenance ; the best are those in the galleries of Dresden and Cassel. That in the Antwerp Museum is either a copy, or was painted from memory. After -Saskia's death (1642), Rembrandt's private affairs took a turn for the worse. The great financial collapse, which since 1653 had continued in Amsterdam, bringing wide-spread and ruinous disaster upon the community, did not suffer our painter to escape. He was declared bankrupt in 1656, and an inventory of his effects was taken by the Commissioners of the 'desolate-boedelkamer', who brought them to the hammer in the following year. This inventory is still preserved, and is an all-sufficient reply to those who maintained that Rem- brandt was destitute of refined tastes. The walls of his spacious + Rembrandt, sa vie et ses oeuvres , par C. Vosmaer. 2nd ed. The Hague, 1877. IN THE NETHERLANDS. Iv apartments were covered not only with works from his own and his pupils' hands, hut such Italian masters as Palma, Giorgione, etc., were likewise represented. He also possessed numerous antique busts and miscellaneous curiosities , as well as a choice collection of engravings. Besides all this, the confidential intercourse which he maintained with Huygens and Jan Six sufficiently helies the opinion once current as to Rembrandt's low-lived habits. Rembrandt did not marry a second time, but contented himself henceforth with the faithful affection and ministrations of his servant Hendrickje Stoffels (d. 1661). The close of his life found him poor and living in complete retirement ; still busy notwithstanding, and still cap- able of laughter, as a portrait of himself from his own hand (painted about 1668), and now in a private collection in Paris, gives evidence. He was buried on 8th October, 1669. In Rembrandt's career as a painter we notice an uninterrupted and brilliant process of development. It is true that even his early works show his fondness for effects produced by strong and full light thrown upon the principal figures, but it is not till after sev- eral years residence in Amsterdam that his pictures are suffused with that rich golden brown tone which invests his masterpieces with their subtle and peculiar charm. About 1654 his pictures re- ceive a still warmer and more subdued tone , and are brown even to dimness, but retain, nevertheless, an unfaltering breadth in exe- cution. These several methods of Rembrandt are admirably il- lustrated in his masterpieces exhibited in the various galleries of Holland. The 'Regent' picture in the Hague Collection, knovni as 'The Anatomical Lecture' , which contains portraits of Professor Nicholas Tulp, and the members of the Surgeons' guild, belongs to the year 1632. This picture is an excellent example of the master's art, which has enabled him to animate a momentary action of this portrait group with dramatic life, by force of a concentrated expres- sion and accentuation of tone. The 'Night Watch', preserved in the museum at Amsterdam, Rembrandt's greatest work, was painted ten years later. It bears the date 1642, and shows with what skill this master of chiaroscuro could, by its means, convert a prosaic occur- rence, such as that of this band of citizen musketeers sallying forth from their guild-house, into a scene abounding in poetical expression, and exciting the liveliest emotions in the beholder. In the so-called 'Staalmeesters' picture, portraits of the syndics of the Clothmakers' guild in Amsterdam (belonging to the year 1661), the entire tone seems to be permeated by a golden-brown medium. Art has never again created a greater wealth of stirring imagery or poetry of colour so entrancing as these three pictures reveal to us. Unconsciously our thoughts recur to Shakespeare's familiar creations , and we re- cognise in these two mighty art-champions of the north kindred natures and a corresponding bent of fancy. It must not, however, be assumed that Rembrandt confined Ivi HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART himself to the representatiou of 'Regent' pieces, portrait groups (as the 'Jewish Bride' in the Ryks Museum in Amsterdam ) , and single portraits (e.p. Jan Six and Anna Six, in the collection of J. P. Six in Amsterdam), We possess many scriptural pictures by him, scenes from the New as well as Old Testament, for the most part scattered in other countries. The Hague, however, possesses examples of this class of pictures in 'Susanna at the bath', and 'Simeon in the Temple' (bearing the date 1631). Here, too, Rem- brandt preserves a mode of treatment peculiarly his own. In re- presentations of our Saviour's passion the tragic event is pourtrayed in a harsh matter-of-fact spirit, and might serve to illustrate the well-known hymn, '0 Head once full of bruises'. A serener, happier expression of solemnity prevails in the Parables , which enables us fully to realise their significance, often sufficiently obscure. Scenes from the youthful life of Christ have an idyllic charm of their own , and in all Rembrandt's religious compositions the en- deavour is apparent to bring them within the range of human apprehension — a fact important for a right understanding of the Protestantism of the 17th century. Rembrandt touched also the re- gions of Mythology (as is proved by the painting No. 1251 in the Ryks Museum, p. 335, the true meaning of which has been only lately explained) ; but, as will be readily understood, with more doubt- ful success. On the other hand his landscapes, devoid of incident though they be, wide, unbroken, plain, exhibit the master's feeling for colour and poetical expression in the most favourable light. It need hardly be mentioned that in order to become intimately, and as it were personally acquainted with Rembrandt, the collection of his etchings, over 300 in number, must be carefully studied. Among the best-known , the rarest and most beautiful, are 'Rem- brandt's portrait with the Sword', 'Lazarus Rising from the Dead', the 'Hundred Florin Plate' ('Healing of the Sick' ; the former name, by which it was popularly known in the 18th century, now no longer applies, inasmuch as in 1867 the sum of lOOOi. was paid for a single impression), 'Annunciation', 'Ecce Homo', 'The good Samaritan', 'The great Descent from the Cross', the portraits of Tolling, Bonus, Six, the landscape with the mill, and that with the three trees. A goodly array of pupils and imitators are gathered around Rem- brandt. His influence was not confined to Amsterdam alone, but ex- tended to the neighbouring schools, that of Haarlem, for example. Amongst his more immediate followers may be mentioned Ger- brand van den Eeckhout (1621-74), whose works frequently bear Rembrandt's name (the Museum of Amsterdam possesses one of the best of his pictures — The Adulteress), and Ferdinand Bol of Dordrecht (1616-88), who deserted his native style after the death of his master. The 'Regent' picture, formerly in the Lepers' Hospital , and now in the new Ryks Museum, at Amsterdam , be- longs to his best time. IN THE NETHERLANDS. Ivii Govert Flinch, of Cleves (1615-60), may be said almost to have rivalled Rembrandt at the outset of his career. Besides his two best 'Regent' pieces (dated 1642 and 1648), there is in the Museum of Amsterdam a scriptural picture by him. It represents Isaac in the act of blessing Jacob, a favourite subject with the school of Rem- brandt. Amongst the number of Rembrandt's satellites are also Jan Livens (1607-74), Jan Fictoor or Victors (1620-72), Ph. Koninck (1619-88), the landscape painter; Salomon Koninck (1609-56), whose scriptural pictures and portraits bear so strong a superficial resemblance to those of Rembrandt that they are often mistaken for his; Jacob Backer (1609-51), intimately associated in his youth with Govert Flinck, and his companion in Rembrandt's workshop ; Nicholas Maes, of Dordrecht (1632-93), whose best works belong to the time of his youth (1650-60), as, having in after-life settled in Antwerp, he seriously deteriorated under the influences of the school of Rubens ; Karel Fabritiiis, who came to a premature end by a powder explosion in Delft (1654) ; and Bernard Fabritius. Another of the most eminent contemporaries of Rembrandt was Jan Vermeer (1632-75), of Delft, who pursued a course of great independence and" seems to have been influenced by no other master except, to a slight extent, Karel Fabritius. Young women engaged in all kinds of household work, or in the more congenial occupation of love-making, interiors, street scenes, and landscapes, are his favourite subjects, all wondrously pure in colour, abounding in de- lightful effects of perspective, full of life, at once truthful and charm- ing, entitling them to rank amongst the gems of Dutch art. Even in his lifetime, and indeed down to the present century, his style has been frequently and successfully imitated. Scarcely inferior to Vermeer of Delft, and frequently confounded with him, is Pieter de Hooch (1630-77), celebrated for his fascinat- ing effects of light in his interiors. And last, but not least, of this artist array who, whether as pupils or followers, are as- sociated with Rembrandt, comes Gerard Dou (born at Leyden 1613; d. 1675), the great master of minuteness of finish, whose 'Night Schools' , 'Maidens by candle light', and 'Hermits' are in so much favour with the public, commanding prices commensurate with the admiration bestowed upon them, though it must be said of his works that skilful and delicate manipulation takes the place of poet- ical expression, and that the range of his fancy is contracted in measure corresponding with his painstaking elaboration of finish. This latter quality, however, must receive its due meed of praise. On the other hand , Dou is connected with a number of painters of declining excellence, such as Frans van Mieris the Elder, of Leyden (1635-81), Pieter van Slingeland, of Leyden (1640-91), Godfrey Schalcken (born at Dort, 1643; died at the Hague, 1706), A. van Gaesbeeck (d. 1650), Abraham de Pape (d.l666), and many others. It will be seen, then, that Rembrandt's influence was as weighty Iviii HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART and comprehensive as the products of his easel were great in number and surpassing in quality. Painters of the most Avidely differing motives acknowledge him as their master and example, and he has led the way, not only in historical and portrait painting, but in landscape too , and in the so-called genre painting. In this respect Bartholomew van derHelst, to whom many would assign a place amongst the foremost realists next to Rembrandt, cannot com- pare with him. Van der Heist was born at Haarlem in 1611 or 1612, and ended his days there in 1670, in the enjoyment of great wealth and general esteem. Nothing is known of his teachers, nothing of his relations with Rembrandt, whose path he appears to be continually crossing without compromising his independence. He was the favour- ite portrait-painter of the wealthy burghers of Amsterdam, and confined himself almost entirely to the painting of 'Regent' pieces and portraits. His most celebrated work, the Arquebusiers' Banquet (1648), is in the Museum of Amsterdam (which also possesses the Arquebusiers' Guild of 1639, and the 'Doelenstuk' of 1657), and when compared with Rembrandt's 'Night Watch', admirably illustrates the points of difference between the two masters. Van der Heist presents to us Nature as she is, unrelieved, a bare reality. If Nature herself could paint she would have given us a picture such as Van der Heist's. It is otherwise with Rembrandt. Upon all his works he sets the seal of his individuality. As the reality presents itself to his eye, so he reproduces it with just that degree of truthfulness which his intention prescribes. Van der Heist's are mere imitations, illusive in their fidelity, but leaving no enduring impression. Frans Hals, of Haarlem, a somewhat earlier painter, so far at least as the effects of his training in the great Master's school are con- cerned, is more akin to him than Van der Heist. Though of Haarlem parentage, he was born at Antwerp (about 1580). When he returned to Haarlem is not known. He married in 1610, unhappily as the event proved, for in 1616 he was brought before the Burgomaster for ill-treat- ing his wife, and had to promise to abstain for the future from 'dronkenschappe'. Of the joys of conviviality which he could so well depict he freely partook, and thus got into difficulties which his prolific pencil failed to avert. His goods and chattels were sold by auction in 1652 to pay his debts, and he became in his old age a pensioner of the State. His death took place in 1666, at the age of 82, his labours having extended over half-a-century. The earliest of his paintings known to us bears the date 1616, the Banquet of Officers of the George's Guild of Musketeers, in the Museum of Haar- lem , where the most considerable of this master's 'Regent-pieces' are collected. Amongst these the Assembly of Officers of the An- dreas Guild (1633), and Assembly of Officers of the George's Guild (1639), are the best. Rembrandt's influence is still apparent in pictures of the succeeding decade, without however impairing the individuality of the artist. The utmost vivacity of conception, IN THE NETHERLANDS. lix purity of colour, and breadth of execution, which in his latest works betrays a handling of the hrush so uncompromising that drawing is almost lost in a maze of colour-tone , are distinguishing character- istics of Frans Hals , who , besides the 'Regent-pieces' referred to, was the author of numerous portraits ; and he has immortalised such popular figures as the 'Rommelpott-players' , 'The tipsy old wife, Hille Bobbe', *The jolly shoemaker, Jan Barentz', ready either for a drinking bout or for service in the fleet with Admiral Tromp. His best known pupils are Adrian Brouwer (b. at Oudenaarde, 1605; d. at Antwerp, 1638), a.ni Adrian van Ostade(y>. at Haarlem, 1610 ; died there, 1685). As we do not possess more correct bio- graphical data concerning the former of these, we must accept as true the stories told of him and his fellows by authors of the 18th century. He is his master's most formidable rival in the na'ive conception of national character, as well as in mere technical skill ; and had he lived long enough to mature his natural powers, he must have borne away the palm now conceded to Adrian Ostade. In the earlier efforts of Adrian van Ostade, we are reminded of Brouwer ; it was after the year 1640, or thereabouts, when the influence of Rembrandt was in the ascendant with him , that he first displayed those technical qualities and artistic predilections which have made him a favour- ite with the most fastidious connoisseurs. Grace and beauty are attri- butes which the forms crowded into his cottage-interiors or animating his court-yard scenes certainly do not possess ; but they always abound in lusty life, characteristic and appropriate, whether playing cards, intent upon the enjoyment of pipe and glass, or dancing accompanied by the eve-present fiddler ; and with such marvellous effect is colour accentuated, so complete is his mastery of chiaroscuro , that nearly every picture may be said to provide a new 'feast for the eye'. With Ostade are connected his brother, Isaac van Ostade (iQ2i-Ad\ Cornelis Bega (1620-64), and Cornells i)usart (1660-1704). And thus we are brought to the almost innumerable throng of Genre Painters, who have imparted to Dutch art its peculiarly dis- tinctive attributes, and have secured its greatest triumphs. It would be difficult to distinguish amongst the genre painters of Holland various degrees of excellence, inasmuch as each in his respective , and, as a rule, contracted sphere , has asserted an in- disputable supremacy. It is unfortunate that the greater number of their works have been transferred to foreign galleries , and are rarely to be met with in Dutch collections , so that Holland is no longer exclusively the place where the genre and landscape-paint- ers of the Netherlands can be studied. It must suffice , therefore, to mention the most conspicuous names. The genre painters are usually divided into several groups, ac- cording to the subjects which they make peculiarly their own ; pic- tures, for example , belong to the higher or lower genre as they set before us the more refined or coarser aspects of social life, the world Ix HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART of fashion or the vulgar herd. These, however, are merely adventi- tious distinctions, and do not by any means sufficiently account for this latest development of Dutch art, resolving itself as it did into a number of local schools. Dirk Hals (probably a younger brother of Frans Hals, to whom many genre works by Dirk have been ascribed), Anton Palamedesz, J. A. van Duck, Pieter Codde, and others, abound in pictures of soldiers and cavaliers contending with Venus and Bacchus, or engaged in the sterner encounter of pitched battle and skirmish ; in illustrations, too, of the fierce licence engendered by the wars of the 17th century; figures roaming hither and thither without restraint, lusty and light-hearted. In striking contrast to such scenes as these are the pictures of a peaceful and refined domestic life, oc- casionally disconcerted by the vicissitudes of love, which formed the favourite theme of Gerard Terhurg (ter Borch), born at ZwoUe about 1617, a man who had travelled much and who died at Deventer in 1681. He, together with his successors, Gabriel Metsu, of Leyden and Amsterdam (b. 1630, d. after 1667), Caspar Netscher (b. at Hei- delberg, 1639 ; died at the Hague, 1684), etc., are generally known as 'stuff' painters, owing to the attention they bestow upon drapery stuffs, especially silks and satins. It must be borne in mind, how- ever, that in the absence of these external properties, thus carefully supplied, the refinements of life could not be invested with ap- propriate pictorial splendour. But that these painters were not the mere imitators of stuff and texture, that they were capable of emotion, and could give utterance to the sentiments of romance, will be sufficiently evident to those who study the 'Paternal Warning' of Terhurg in the Museum at Amsterdam. As a portrait-painter, too, Terburg has made a great reputation. (His 'Peace Congress of Miinster', his most celebrated piece, was sold with the Demidoff col- lection for 182,000 fr.) Jan Steen, the so-called jolly landlord of Leyden (1626-79), who, however, painted also at the Hague and Haarlem, was likewise a painter of social subjects, but in a line and in a manner quite his own. That he was a low-lived tippler is simply one of those wholly gratuitous slanders with whicb it was once the fashion to besmirch the painters of Holland. A jovial life was probably not repugnant to his tastes ; and what is more to our purpose is the fact that a spontaneous j oyousness pervades his works, and a sparkling sense of humour too ; while as a colourist he must be looked upon as the foremost of the entire school. His pictures might be enti- tled comedies of life, in which man's follies are chastised with satire, and his weaknesses held up to ridicule, but without the glaring exaggeration and obtrusive moralising which make Hogarth's pictures (with whom Jan Steen has much in common) so unpleasant to look upon. Family feasts and merry-makings , the wedding of ill-assorted couples, quacks and their quackeries , lovelorn maidens ('hier baat geen medicijn, want het is minne pijn'), tavern brawls IN THE NETHERLANDS. Ixi and similar scenes are his favourite subjects. Jan Steen has, and with justice, been likened to Moliere. The greater number and the best of his works are in England. He is very partially represented in the museums of Amsterdam and the Hague. The Due d'Aren- berg possesses in his Brussels collection one of the very rare scrip- tural pieces by this master, the 'Marriage at Cana' ; another, 'Laban searching for his images', is in the Museum at Leyden. Jan Steen is a solitary personage. He stands alone , and has no followers. So much the more numerous, and at the same time in- timately associated , are the painters whose genius found employ- ment in the domain of landscape , which they rendered with true artistic appreciation , and enriched as well as animated by the ad- dition of living forms. Very frequently these 'landscapes with figures' are the result of friendly co-operation. Thus Adrian van cle Velde (1635-72), one of the most estimable as well as gifted of Dutch painters, supplied the figures for the landscapes of his master Wynants , for Moucheron , and even for Hobbema and Ruysdael Philip Wouverman (1619-68) has perhaps the greatest repu- tation for these figure pictures , of which some 800 may still be reckoned. Cavalry combats, hunting scenes, in which horses al- ways play a conspicuous part, he has repeated with endless varia- tions, without however passing the bounds of mediocrity. To enu- merate the names of all who occupied this particular field is simply impracticable, for it is precisely in this field that Dutch art was most prolific. We must, however, mention (as akin to the foregoing) Paul Potter (h. 1625; d. Amsterdam, 1654), chief of animal paint- ers, to whose pictures landscape lends idyllic charms, and whom we must accept as a classical example of the entire fraternity. A con- summate draughtsman, he was at least as eminent as a colourist, especially in his smaller pictures. Karel du Jardin (iQ22-7S), an ex- uberantly fertile painter, owes his best qualities to the foregoing, but the inequality of his works shows his inability to resist other less favourable influences. Other 'idyllic' painters are Jan Asse- lyn (1610-52) and Nicolas Berchem (1620-83), both of Amsterdam. As landscape-painters must be named Jan van Ooyen of the Hague (1596-1656); Albert Cuyp of Dordrecht (1620-91), son of Jacob Gerritsz (p. liii), also eminent as a painter of portraits and animals ; Jan Wynants of Haarlem (1600-70) , famous for the number of his pupils and his own steady development ; Allart van Everdingen (Alkmaar, 1621-75); Jacob van Ruysdael (born 1628, at Haarlem; d. 1682), 'excelling all other masters in a feeling for the poetry of northern landscape combined with the power of gra- phic embodiment'; and Meindert Hobbema (b. 1638, at Amster- dam ; d. 1709), whose merits have only recently come to be appre- ciated. His works exhibit a moderate talent only for composition ; the same motive constantly recurs in his pictures (the figures are for the most part by another hand) ; but in delicacy and thorough- Ixii HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART. ness of elaboration, more particularly in Ms treatment of atmosphere and light, his pictures must be highly prized as works of genius of the highest order. — Jan van der Meet of Haarlem (1678-91) shows himself near of kin to Jacob Ruysdael. Numerous other landscape painters remained true to their national scenery , but in many cases they lapsed into a kind of mannerism, which is very apparent in the moonlight scenes of Aart van der Neer (of Am- sterdam, 1603-77). The better pictures of the last-named artist, such as his forest-landscape in the Van der Hoop collection, are, however, not inferior to those of Ruysdael and Hobbema, whom he also resembles in his death in poverty and obscurity. Fashion also began to demand the study of Italian landscapes, and in the second half of the 17th cent, compositions of this kind are decidedly predominant. Among the earliest examples of this tendency are Jan Both of Utrecht (c. 1610-50), Adam Pynacker (1622-73), and Herman Swanevelt (1600-55?). It is well known how marine painting (Wjiiem van de Velde, the Younger, 1633-1707; Hendrik van Vliet, d. 1675 at Delft), and architectural painting {Jan van der Heyden, 1637-1712, and Ema- nuel de Witte, 1617-92), prospered in Holland, and how the natio- nal art, as it were with its last breath, gave birth to the so-called 'still-life' ( W. van Aelst of Delft) and flower painting (Jan Davidsz de Heem, 1600-1684, Utrecht and Amsterdam; Rachel Ruysch, 1664-1750, Amsterdam; Jan van Huysum, 1682-1749). We conclude these slight observations with the wish that they may induce to a more searching study of Dutch art in a careful examination of the works themselves , and we recommend all who take an interest in the subject to read Burger''s well known book on the 'Musees de la Hollande', in which Dutch painting is most exhaustively treated. 1. From London to Ostend. There are two direct routes from London to Ostend : 1. Via Dover, tlirice daily, in 6-8 hrs. (fares 1/. 8s. 3c?., 19a. Qd., 13s. id., return 2l. lis. 4d., il. 17s. Bd., il. 3s. 7d.). 2. By Gen. Steam Nav. Co.'s steamers, once or twice weekly, in 10-12 hrs. (chief cabin 7s. Qd. , fore cabin 6s. ; return 10s. 6d., 9s.). — In summer a steamer plies daily from Southend (I-IV2 hr. by rail, from London) to Ostend (fares 9s. 6d., 7s. Bd.) and another thrice weekly from London via Margate and Southend. — From London to Brussels via Dover and Ostend, 8 9 hrs.; fares il. lis. 6d., il. Gs. Sd., ils. 9d„ return, 3^. 6s. id., 21. 8s. 4f?., il. lis. (comp. RR. 3,11). Ostend. — The Railway Station (PI. D, 5) lies on the S. side of the town, at a considerable distance from the sea and the principal hotels, but is connected by rails with the Gave Maritime at the steamboat-pier (PI. F, 4). Omnihuse.% from the hotels meet both the trains and the steamers (fare usually 3/4-1 fr.). Cab from the station to the town IV2 fr. ; luggage under 56 lbs. free; for over-weight 2V2C. per lb. Travellers proceeding direct to Antwerp through the Waasland (p. 63) should book to Bruges only, and there take a fresh ticket via Ghent (see p. 10 and R. 10). If a through- ticket from Ostend to Antwerp be taken, the traveller is conveyed by the longer route via JIalines. Hotels. On the Digue , with unimpeded views of the sea, nearly all large, new, and expensive : R. 4-15, L. 1, A. 1, B. 2, dej. 3, D. 4-6, pena. 10-16, board from 7 fr. In the height of the season (Aus;.) 20-30 fr. per day are demanded for a room on the first floor, facing the sea. To the S.W. of the Cursaal: Hotel Wellington; Continental (PI. 1; D, 2), an impos- ing establishment, with lift (no pension); de L'OcfiAN (PI. 2; C, 2); de LA Plage (PL 3; C, 2) ; Beau-Rivage ; Splendid Hotel, with lift.— To the N.E. of the Cursaal: Hotel Royal Belge; Bellevde ; Grand Hotel d'Ostende, with restaurant; Geand Hotel du Littoral (PI. 4; D,2), at the corner of the Rue du Cerf, well spoken of; du Kdrsaal et Bead-Site, de Rdssie , two houses at the corner of the Rumpe de Flandre, belonging to the same proprietor; Grand Hotel des Bains, with restaurant. — Near the old lighthouse: Grand Hotel du Phare (PL 5; F, 2), with good restaurant, R. &. A. 3-20, L. 1, B. IV2, dej. 3, D. 4-5, pens. 10-15 fr. ; Hotel de Londres, R., L., & A. 5, B. IV4, dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr. ; Hot. dd Poet, de l'Estacade, both plain. Adjoining the Digue: Hotel Royal de Prdsse et de la Geande-Bre- tagne (PL 6; E, 2), at the corner of the Boulevard van Iseghem and the Rue des Capucins, R. from 2'/2, L. 3/4, B. I1/4, dej. 2V2, D. 31/2, pens, from 8 fr. — Farther on, in the Boulevard van Iseghem: Reinsbeeg, Jewish; LiiO- POLD II ET DE Flandre, Rue de Flandre 8, R., L., & A. from 3, B. I1/4, dej. 3, D. 4, pens, from 10 fr., with restaurant; Hotel Royal des Aecades (PL 7; D, 2), with restaurant (p. 2), pens. 9 fr.; Imperial (PL 8; D, 2), de la Digue (PL 9; D, 2), well spoken of; in both, R., L., & A. 3V2-10, B. IV4, dej. 21/2, D. 3'/2-4, pens. 8-16 fr. : Des Anglais, RueRovale 90 (PL B, C, 2), with lift and electric light, R., L., & A. from 3, B. IV2, dej. 21/2, D. 5 f r. ; Germania, corner of the Rue Royale and Rue du Chalet 16 ; Candy's Fa- mily Hotel, Avenue de la Reine, pens, from 7 fr. In the Town. Between the Digue and the Place d'Armes: *Geand Hotel Fontaine (PL 10; E, 2), a large first-class house, with spacious dining-room containing several old pictures by Netherlandish artists, E. froom 4, dej. 3, D. 5, pens, from 10 fr. ; du Teone, Rue Longue, at the corner of Rue Louise ; Wateeloo (PL 11 ; E, 2), Rue Louise 19. — Meetian (PL 12 ; D, 2), Rue de I'Ouest, R., L., A. from 41/2, B. IV2, dej. 3, D. 4, pens. % board from 71/2 fr. ; Cebcle Catholique (PL 13; D, 2), same street. — More to theW. : Hotel DE SufiiDE (PL 14; D, 2), Place du Theatre, with restaurant. In or near the Place d'Armes: *H6tel de l'Empereur (PL 15; E, 2), corner of the Rue de Brabant, with restaurant (p. 2); *Grand Hot. Central (PL 16; E, 2), corner of the Rue Louise and the Rue de Brabant, R., L., & A. 3-5, B. 11/2, dej. 21/2, D. 4, pens. 10-15 fr. — De Gand et d'Albion (PL 17; E, 3), in the Marche aux Herbes, R., L., & A. 3-4, B. Baedekeb'8 Belgium and Holland. 12th Edit. 1 2 Route 1. OSTEND. Restawmta. iV4, ddj.2V2, D- 31/2, pens. 8-10 fr. — Dk BAViftKE, Rue de la Chapelle 15, K, L., lX (Bupii ja^ ap uiinjiij BLANKENBERGHE. 2. Route. 7 Nieuport, another of this group of watering-places, IOI/2 M. to the S.W. of Ostend (steam-tramway, p. 3) is described at p. 33. To the W. of Nieuport are finally the new bathing-reaort. of Oost-Duin- kerke (Hdtel de Ste. Jdesbalve) and the older La Panne {^Grand-Hotel Panne- Bains, Flemish; ''Villa des Ancres, li. IV2-3V2 fr., pens. 4, in Aug. 5 fr.), lying close to the French border. La Panne may be reached via Furnes (p. 33) or from the Belgian frontier-station Adinkerke (p. 33). Between these places, a little inland, is the village of Co.vyde, once noted for its abbey. 2. Blankenberghe and Heyst. Blankenberghe. — Hotels (dinner generally at 1 p.m., supper at 7 p.m ). On the Digue, often overcrowded in the height of the season. To the E. of the Casino : Grand Hotel des Bains et des Familles, contain- ing 500 apartments, with a terrace overlooking the sea, R. from 5, L. 1, B. IV2, de'j. 3, D. 3^2, pens, from 16 fr. Farther on, Pavillon desPkinces and Hotel Continental (1st class, well spoken of), under the same manage- ment as the Hot. Cursaal (see below). — To the W. of the Casino: Hotel Du PfHiN, R., L., A. 21/2-6, B. 1, dcj. 2, D. 3, pens. 6-12 fr.-, Succursale do Lion d'Or (see below), pens, from 7 fr. ; Grand Hot. de Blankenberghe, R. 3, pens. 7-15 fr. ; Pavillon Rotal, annexe of the Hot. de la Paix (see below), pens. 9-12 fr. 5 Grand Hotel Godd£ris, R. from 3, D. 3, S. 2, pens. 7-15 fr. ; Grand Hotel Cursaal, R.. L., & A. from 4, B. IV4, dej. 3, D. 3, pens, from 9 fr. ; Grand Hot. Pauwels D^Hondt, large, L. 1/2, B. 1. D. 2V2-3, S.I3/4- 2, pens. 8-15 fr. ; Rocher de Cancale, unpretending; Maison Emile God- DERis,wellspokenof; Victoria, R. from 5, D. 3 fr., pens. 8-15 fr. ; DEL'OcfiAN, D. 3 fr. ; de Venise, well spoken of; de l'Univers. Farther to the W., at the entrance to the harbour. Hotel do Phare, D. 21/2, pens, from 6 fr. In the Town. In the Rue de FEglise, close to the principal approach to the Digue : Hotel de Bruges, corner of the Rue des Pecheurs, 1st class, with several annexes, well spoken of; Lion d'Or R. from 3, L. 1/2, B. 1, D. 21/2, pens, from 8 fr. ; Etoile d'Or, R. from 3, B. 1, D. 21/2, pens. 8 fr. Farther on in the Rue de TEglise, on the way from the Digue to the rail- way-station : Bellevce ; d'Allemagne, R. 3-4, L. ^U-'/ai D- 2V2, pens. 6-9 fr. ; de la Paix, D. 2V2-3, pens. 7-15 fr., well spoken of; *Grand Hotel D'Hondt, Rue de TEglise 22, much resorted to by Belgians of the middle class, R., L., & A. 21/2-3, B. 1, dej. 2, D. 21/2, pens. 71/2-10 fr. ; de Bavi^ee ; de l"Eu- rope; Gr. Hot. do Bien-Etre; de Bruxelles. — In the side-streets of the Rue de FEglise : Hot. Trogh, Rue Haute; Hotel de Gand. TfiTE d'Or (well spoken of; pens. 5-7 fr.), both in the Rue Longue; Hotel Vedve van DE Waeter-Notebaert, Rue du Moulin. — Near the station: Hotel do Chemin de Fer, dd Buffet, des Flandres, du Louvre, Mille Colonnes, which may all be described as restaurants with rooms to let. — All the hotels except the Lion d'Or, H6t. des Flandres, and the Gr. H6t. D'Hondt are closed in winter. On the Digue are situated numerous Hotels Garnis, in which rooms facing the sea cost 4-15 fr. per day (with two beds 2 fr. extra). In the town furnished apartments abound in almost every street (2-5 fr. per dajO, but are sometimes all engaged in the height of the season. Those who have not previously written for rooms should arrange to reach Blankenberghe early in the day, so that they may return to Bruges the same evening in case of disappointment. The following houses are recommended : Dr. Cosi/n, Rue du Moulin 23; Dr. van Mullem, Rue de FEglise. Cafes and Restaurants. At the Grand Hdtel des Bains, see above, dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr. ; also at the other hotels. — Wine and Oysters at Lefebvre's, Rue de FEglise 14, and at the Grand Pare aux Huitres. near the Bassin de Chasse. — Munich Beer at the Hot. de l'0cian,H6t. Bellevue (see above), etc. — Confectioners: Wehrli, with wine-room, on the Digue; Van Wyns- berghe, Rue des Pecheurs 50. — Bodega, on the Digue. Casino, with restaurant (no eatables), reading and conversation rooms, etc. ; concerts twice daily, ball every evening ; admission, 1 person, 1 day 8 Route 2. BLANKENBERGHE. 2 fr., a week 14, fortnight 24, 3 weeks 32, month 38, six weeks 50, season 60 fr.; 2 persons, 4, 26. 42, 52. 60, 74, 80 fr. ; etc. (less out of the season). — Circulating Libraky: Be Jongh, Place du Casino 53. Post Office near the Casino. — Telegraph & Telephone Office at the railway-station and on the Digue. Physicians. Dr. Butaye^ Dr. Cost/n, Dr. van Damme-., also, Drs. van den Abeele., Dnmon, van der Ghiiit. Schramme, and others, who come over from Bruges in the season. — Chemists. R. D'ffondt, Rue de I'Eglise 35; Eaeuffer, Rue de TEglise and Place du Casino. Bathing Machines 1 fr. ; 30 c. to the attendant (baigneur). — Tents, for protection against sun and wind . on the beach for 1 fr. per day. — Bathing Dresses may be purchased in the town for 5-8 fr. — Warm Baths at the Efablissement Hydrothirapique of the Grand Hotel des Families and at the Succur.«ale du Lion d'Or (p. 7). Boats. For a row of 1-2 hrs. the charge is 5 fr. ; for a party 1 fr. each. — Steamboats. Excursions into the open sea during the season daily (2 fr. each person); also to Ostend (3 fr.) and Flushing. — Donkeys for rides on the beach : per 1/2 hr. 50 c. -, to Heyst 2-3 fr. English Church, Rue des Boulangers; Sun. service during the season at 10.45 a.m. and 3.30 p.m. ; chaplain, Rev. T. W. Wilkinson of Bruges (p. 12). BLankenberghe , 12 M. to the N.E. of Ostend and 9 M. to the N. of Bruges, a small flsMng-town with about 4200 inhab., consists mainly of small one-storied houses, like Scheveningen (R, 40), but a number of handsome new buildings have recently sprung up. It first came into notice as a sea-bathing place in 1840, and of late has become a rival of Ostend, being visited by 28,000 persons an nually (passing travellers included). It is, however, quieter and somewhat less expensive. The beach is excellent. The 'dunes' (downs, or sand-hills) are paved so as to form a kind of 'digue', like that at Ostend, which affords a promenade 22yds. wide and upwards of 1 M. in length, flanked with hotels and villas and provided with the electric light. On the right, or N.E. side of the approach from the Kerkstraat or Rue de I'Eglise adjoin- ing the Grand H6tel des Bains, is the Casino (seep. 7), the concert- room of which can accommodate 4000 persons. Admission to the Pier or Jetee (cafe'), 20 c. At the S.W. end of the Digue rises the Light- house, situated at the entrance of a small Harbour, constructed for the use of the fishing-boats, many of which, however, continue as of old to be hauled up on the beach. Like that of Ostend the harbour is protected from silting by piers, which extend into the sea for about 330 yds. The pier-heads are provided with seats. Lisseweghe, 41/2 M. to the S.E. of Blankenberghe, was a flourishing town in the middle ages, but now has only 1800 inhabitants. It has a small station on the Bruges railway, from which, however, it is 1 M. distant (see p. 10). The Church, a handsome structure of the 13th century in the transition style, formerly belonged to an abbey, and has been under restoration since 1893. At the end of the left aisle is a Visitation by J. van Oost the Elder. The truncated tower, although two-thirds of it only are completed, is a very conspicuous object in the landscape. A huge barn (now a farm), witli immense oaken beams, dating from 1280, is the solitary relic of the wealthy abbey of Tev Doest. From Blaxkenbekghe to Ostend, steam-tramway in IV4 hr., see p. 3. At (3 M.) "Wenduyne (Pavilion des Dunes., 5 6 fr. ; Hotel du Chcmin de Per Vicinal; Hotel du Commerce; Caf4 Bienvenue des Strangers, 4 fr., cuisine HEYST. 2. Route. 9 well spoken of; Ca/d de» Strangers, pens. 5-6 fr.), a small sea-batliing place, is an extensive hospice for delicate children (200 beds). — 51/2 M. Den Haan (^Hdi. den Haan or Ze Coq, pens. 6-7, D. at 1 p.m. 3 fr.; sea-bath and costume 3/^ fr.) is another small bathing-resort, recently established among the dunes, which are here 1/2 ^i- broad. The afforesting of the latter, begun in 1835, was recommenced by government in 1888. — II72 M. Slykem; 13 M. Ostend (p. 1). Railway to Bruges and to Heyst, see p. 10. Heyst. — Hotels and Pensions. On the Digue (from E. to W.) : *Geand Hotel des Bains, R. from 3, L. & A. V2^ B. IV2, D. 21/2, pens. 5-10 fr.; *Gkanu Hot. do Cuksaal, pens. 7-11 fr.; Grand Hotel Royal, R. from 2, B. 1, dcj. 2, D. 21/2, pens. 5-10 fr. ; *H6tel de la Plage, frequented by the Roman Cath- olic clergy, R., L., &. A. 23/4-33/4, B. 1, dej. I1/2, D. 21/2, pens. 6-8, board 5 fr. ; de Bruges et de Flandre, with two 'dependances' and restaurant, pens, from 5 fr., well spoken of; Lion dOk; Hotel dc Phare, R. from 3-5, L. & A. 1/2, B. 1, dej. 3, D. 3, pens. 6-12 fr., well spoken of; at the W. extremity, near the locks, dd Xouveao-Port. — In the Village^ a few minutes' walk from the beach (all unpretending): near the railway-station, dd Rivage ; du Littoral; Montetne, Boulevard Leopold ; Tkoffaes. — Hotel Leopold II, B. 1, D. 2, S. IV2, pens. 4-6 fr. ; Padwels, near the church, both well spoken of; Ste. Anne; etc. Furnished apartments in the Maison des Families, on the Digue. Cafes and Restaurants in the hotels on the Digue. Also: Restaurant Patin. — Confectioners at the Hot. de la Plage and the Maison de Famil- ies. — Wine at Husgen's Moselhduschen. Bath 75 c ; fee to attendant about 1 fr. per week. — Donkess 1 fr. per hour. — The Railway Station lies in the centre of the village, about 100 yds. from the Digue. Railway to Blankenbergbe (1/4 hr.) and Bruges, see next page. Heyst, called Heyst-sur-Mer to distiuguisli it from Heyst-op- den-Berg (p. 136), is a village with 2500 inhab., the terminus of the railway mentioned at p. 10, and also a sea-bathing resort attracting upwards of 3000 visitors annually. As at Ostend and Blankenbergbe, there is here a long Digue, 22 yds. broad, paved with brick, and flanked with lodging-houses and restaurants, besides the above- mentioned hotels. — The village possesses a large brick Roman Catholic Church, in the Gothic style. About 1/2 M. to the S.W. of Heyst are the mouths of two ca- nals QCanal de derivation de la Lys, constructed in 1857-63), which drain an extensive plain, and are closed by huge lock-gates. From Heyst to Bruges, 14 M., steam-tramway in about IV2 hr. — 272 M. Knokke (Hotels, on the beach; ''Grand Hotel de Knokke, pens. 6-10 fr., Hot. du Phare; on the road to the village: Hdtel des Families, Hotel des Dunes, and several villas; in the village, IV2 M. from the beach : H6t. de la Plage, H6t. de' Bruges, Maison Communale, Hot. de la Marine, etc.; bath 60 c), another seaside-resort, 1^4 M. from the beach, with a life-boat station, a lighthouse, and a monument to Alf. Verwie, the ani- mal-painter. — 3'/2 M. Westcapelle (branch-line to Sluis, see below). — 13 M. Bruges, see p. 11. From Westcapelle (see above), a steam-tramway runs via Sint Anna ler Muiden, a village of Dutch character, to (6 M.) Sluis, French VEcluse (Ho/ van Brussel), a small and ancient seaport, situated beyond the Dutch frontier, and connected with the Zwyn (see p. 10) by a canal. Slais po.s- sesses a belfry of the 14th century. To Bruges via Damme, see p. 28. Steam- tramway from Sluis to Maldeghem (p. 10) and Breskens (p. 250). Oadzand (comp. p. 29), a Dutch village frequented for sea-bathing, lies to the N. of Sluis (I'/z hr. by carriage), and may be reached from Knokke on foot along the coast in 2 hrs. In the village is the inn 'de Witte Leeuw'; 10 Route 3. TERNEUZEN. From Ostend and on the dune IV2 J^I. distant, another modest inn, with rooms to let. Gadzand is situated near the Zwijn. an arm of the sea, which at one time extended far inland, but has been silted up since the 15th century. 3. From Ostend to Brussels via Bruges and Ghent. 78 M. Railway (Chemin de Fer de lEtat) in 21/4-4 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 30, 6 fr. 95, 4 fr. 65 c, express 11 fr. 55, 8 fr. 70, 5 fr. 80 c.~l. To (14 M.) Bruges in V2-V4 hr. (1 fr. 7o, 1 fr. 30, 90 c. or 2 fr. 15, 1 fr. G5. 1 fr. 10 c). To (42 31.) Ghetit in 1V2-2 hrs. (4 fr. 90, 3 fr. 60, 2 fr. 45 c. or 6 fr. 15, 4 fr. 65, 3 fr. 10 e.). The express-trains in connection with the Dover steamboats start from the quay, the ordinary trains from the station in the town. The line crosses the canal diverging from the Ostend canal to the S.W,, and leading via Nieuport and Furnes to Dunkirk. 41/2 M. Oudenhurg , with the ruins of a Benedictine abbey and an old church, lies to the right in the midst of productive gardens which supply Ostend with fruit and vegetables. — 8 M. Jabbeke. 14 M. Bruges, see p. 11, and Map, p. 7. From Bruges to Elankenberghe (9V2 M.) and Hetst (15 M.) by rail- way in 30 and 50 min. respectively (fares 1 fr. 15, 90, 60 c., and 1 fr. 85, 1 fr. 40, 95 c). The line skirts the entire W. side of Bruges. — 2 M. Bruges-Bassin, the port for Bruges, with ships and large timber stores ; 5 M. Dudzeele; 7 M. Lisseweghe (p. 8); 8 M. Blankenberghe (p. 7) 5 15 M. Hey St (p. 9). To Thourout (Courtrai and Ypres), see p. 33. 18 M. Oostcamp ; 22 M. Beernem; 27'/2 ^- AeZire (steam-tram- way to Thielt, see p. 32]; 29 M. Bellem; 811/2 M. Hansbeke; 331/2 M. Landeyhem; 371/2 M. Tronchiennes ; 40 M. Gand-St. Pierre. 42 m. Ghent, see p. 36. From Ghent to Antwerp, see R. 10; to Courtrai, see R. 8. From Ghent to Terneuzen, 25 V2 M., railway in about IV2 hr. (fares 3 fr., 2 fr. 30, 1 fr. 50 c). The train starts from the Station du Chemin de Fer de TEtat, stopping at the Station d'Eecloo (see p. 36), and then follows the direction of the canal mentioned at p. 37. Stations: Won- delghem (see below), Langerbriigge, Terdonck-Clui/sen , Ertvelde, Sehaeie (junction of the line from Eecloo to Lokeren, p. 64, and the last Belgian station). — 171/2 M. Sas {i. e., lock) van Ghent (the first Dutch station, where the locks of the above-mentioned canal are situated). Then Philip- pine, Slui/skil, and Terneuzen (JTd^. des Pays-Bas; H6t. Rotterdam), a small fortified town at the mouth of the important canal which connects Ghent with the Schelde. Steamboat thence twice daily in i'/z hr. to Flushing (p. 249) ; omnibus from the station at Flushing to the (3/4 M.) steamboat-pier. From Ghent to Bel'Ges there is a private railway (30 M.), the continua- tion of the Waasland line (p. 63), as well as the Chemin de Fer de TEtat. Trains run in I1/4-I3/4 hr. (fares 2 fr. 70, 2 fr., 1 fr. 35 c), starting from the Station d'Eecloo, on the N.E. side of the town. Stations: Wondelghem, Everghem, Sleydinge, Waerschoot, Eecloo (a busy town with 10,400 inhab., where the Bruges, Selzaete, and Lokeren line diverges to the right), Bal- gerhoeke, Adeghem, Maldeghein (branch-line to Breskens yia. Sluis, see p. 9), Donck, Sysseele, Steenhrugge, and Bruges (p. 11). Local Railways from Ghent : to the E. (starting from the Boulevard du Chateau) via Mont St. Amand, Destelbergen, Ifeusden , Laerne (p. 63), Wetteren (p. 11), Calcken, Overmeire to Zele (p. 63) and Ilamme (p. 63; 221/2 M.); — to the N. (starting from the Boulevard du Chateau) via Mont St. Amand (see above), Oostacker, Desteldonck to (IO1/2 M.) Saffelaere; — to the N.W. (starting from the Pont du Beguinage) via Everghem (see above), Lovendeghem to (9 M.) Somerghem. to Brussels. ALOST. 3. Route. 1 1 421/2 M. Ledeherg; 431/2 M. Meirelbeke ; 461/2 M. Melle; 48 M. Quatrecht; 5O1/2 M. Wetteren; 52 M. Schellebelle. All these are also stations on the line from Ghent to Antwerp via Dendermonde (R. 10a}. 581/2 M. Alost, Flem. Aalst (Hotel de Flandre, Hot. des Arcades, both at the station ; Due de Brabant ; Mille Colonnes) , a town with 26,000 inhab. , on the Dendre , was formerly the capital of the county of Keizer-Vlaanderen, and the frontier-town of the province in this direction. A considerable trade in hops is carried on here. The Church of St. Martin, in the late-Gothic style (about 1498), is little more than a fragment, two-thirds of the nave, as well as the tower and portal, being entirely wanting. It contains an admirable picture by Rubens, said to have been painted in 1631 in one week : Christ appointing St. Rochus tutelary saint of the plague-stricken. The museum at Ghent possesses a copy of this work. A statue by Jos. Geefs was erected in 1856 in front of the Hotel de Ville to Thierry Maertens, the first Belgian printer, who exercised his craft at Alost. The beautiful belfry of the Hotel de Ville was thoroughly restored after a fire in 1879. The old town-hall, built early in the 13th cent., is now a meat-market. From Alost to Antwerp, 31 V2 M., railway in about 2 hra. (fares 3 fr. 90, 2 fr. 90, 1 fr. 95 c). — 3 M. Moorsel. V/2 M. Opwyck , the junction of the Brussels, Dendermonde, and Ghent railway (p. 63) ; 12 M. Steen- huffel, with a chxirch containing stained glass of the 16th cent. ; 14 M. Londei'zeel, the junction of the Malines and Ghent line (p. 136); I6V2 M. Thisselt, 19V2 M. Willebroeck (with a paper-mill), also stations on the line from Malines to Terneuzen ; 21'/2 M. Boom, see p. 63; 25V2 M. Hemixem, with an old Bernardine abbey, now a prison. — 281/2 M. Hohoken, near the Schelde, with numerous villas of Antwerp merchants and a large ship- building yard belonging to the Cockerill establishment (p. 219). Branch- line to Oude God (p. 137). — 3IV2 M. Antwerp, see p. 137. 60 M. Erembodeghem. 621/2 M. Denderleeuw (where a line di- verges to Ninove and Ath, p. 68); to Courtrai, see p. 34. We now quit the province of East Flanders. — 641/2 M. Esschene-Lom- beek; 67 M. Ternaih; 69 M. Bodeghem- Saint- Martin ; 71 M. Dil- beek; 721/2 M. Berchem- Sainte-Agathe; 74 M. Jette (where the Dendermonde line diverges ; p. 63). At (76 M.) Laeken (p. 115) the royal chateau is seen on the left. The train finally stops at the Station du Nord at (78 M.) Brussels (p. 70). 4. Bruges. Arrival. There are two railway-stations at Bruges: 1. The Central Station PI. A, 5), for all trains 5 — 2. The Station du Bassin (PI. D, 1, 2; p. 10), the first stopping-place of the trains to Blankenberghe-Heyst and of the steam-tramway (p. 12). Hotels. ''Hotel de Flandre (PI. a-, B, 5), Rue Nord-du-Sablon 38, R. 3-5, A. 3/4, L. 3/4, B. IV2, de'j. 31/2, D. (at 1 and 6 p.m.) 4, pens, from 8 fr. ; *6rand Hotel du Commerce (PI. b; B, 4), Rue St. Jacques 39, an old-established and comfortable family-hotel, frequented by English trav- ellers, R. from 21/2, L. 1/2, A. 3/4, B. l'/*, d6j. 2V2, D. at 1 p.m. 3, at 6 p.m. 31/2, omn. 1/2 fr. — *Grand Hotel dd Sablon (PI. n; B, 5), Rue Nurd-du- 12 Routed. BRUGES. Collections. Sablon 21, R., L., & A. 2V2-3V2, B. I'/a, ddj. 2, D. 3, pens. 7 fr. ; *Panier d'Or (PI. h; B, 4), opposite the Halles, on the N. side of the Grand' Place, R., L., & A. 2V2, B. 1, D. 2V2. S. IV2. pens. 6 fr., unpretending, with cafe- restaarant. — The following are near the station and have cafes-restanrants : Hotel de Londkes (PL d ; A, 5), R., L., "'M -nsce' III 'I v^^^ stMiclT.Pl \a^ ^ , T)(!nijnir?r-,r<^7-7if / JI.de sFaidons ^- "S^j. w v 4 si-f^'<'^^^ n IUustic|e ThisLtre "? Passage &eograYh..Aastalt -von. "VTae^ier * Deljes, Leipzig-. Cathedral. GHENT. 7. Route. 41 De Crayer, Assumption. A marble slab opposite records the names of the priests who refused to recognise Bishop Lebrun, appointed by Napoleon in 1813. Teansi?pt. To the right and left of the entrance to the choir are statues of the Apostles by C. van Poucke, 1782. — Ten steps load up to the choir. Choir. The choir was enclosed in the early 18th cent, by lofty balustrades of black and coloured marble, against which the choir stalls, of carved mahogany, are placed. Above the stalls arc scenes in grisaille from the Old and New Testament, by Van Reysschoot (1774). The high-altar is adorned with a, Statue of St. Bavon in his ducal robes, hovering among the clouds, by Verhruggen [17th cent.). The four massive copper Candlesticks bearing the English arms are believed once to have decorated St. Paul's in London, and to have been sold during the Protectorate of Cromwell. On each side of the choir, adjoining the altar, are two monuments to bishops with large sculptured groups of the 17th and 18th cent., the best of them being that of Bishop A. Triest by Duquesnoy (1G54), the first to the left. Retro-Choir, beginning by the S. transept. 1st Chapel : *Pour- bus , Christ among the doctors ; most of the heads are portraits : left, near the frame, Alva, Charles V., Philip II., and the master him- self ; on the inner wings the Baptism and Presentation in the Temple, on the outer the Saviour and the donor (Viglius), 1571, — 3rd. Opposite the altar, Oerard van der Meire (p. xli), Christ between the malefactors, with Moses striking water from the rock and the Raising of the brazen serpent on the wings, the whole of mediocre merit. — By the choir-screen, monument of Bishop De Smet (d. 1741). — 5th: M. van Coxie, Dives and Lazarus. — We now ascend the steps. 6th : **Jan and Hubert van Eyck, Adoration of the Immaculate Lamb , the most imposing work of the Flemish School (comp. p. xxxix). It was begun by Hubert van Eyck for Jodocus Vyts, an important patrician of Ghent , and his wife Isabella Burluut, about the year 1420, and finished by John in 1432. The share which each of the brothers took in this work cannot be precisely ascertained. The central piece, and the figures of God the Father, Mary, John, Adam, and Eve, are usually attributed to Hubert, and the rest of the work to his brother. This work originally consisted of twelve sections, but is in part only in its original place, the missing wings (see p. 89) being here replaced by copies with ■variations by M. van Coxie. 'In the centre of the altar-piece, and on a panel which overtopa all the others, the noble and dignified figure of Christ sits enthroned in the prime of manhood with a short black beard, a broad forehead, and black eyes. On his head is the white tiara, ornamented with a profusion of diamonds, pearls, and amethysts. Two dark lappets fall on either side of the grave and youthful face. The throne of black damask is em- broidered with gold; the tiara relieved on a golden ground covered with 42 Route 7. GHENT. Cathedral. inscriptions in semicircular lines. Christ holds in his left hand a sceptre of splendid workmanship, and with two fingers of his right he gives his blessing to the world. The gorgeous red mantle which completely enshrouds his form is fastened at the breast by a large jewelled brooch. The mantle itself is bordered with a double row of pearls and amethysts. The feet rest on a golden pedestal, carpeted with black, and on the dark ground, which is cut into perspective squares by lines of gold, lies a richly-jewelled open-worked crown, emblematic of martyrdom. This figure of the Redeemer is grandly imposing-, the mantle, though laden with precious stones, in obedience to a somewhat literal interpretation of Scripture, falls from the shoulders and over the knee to the feet in ample and simple folds. The colour of the flesh is powerful, brown, and glowing, and full of vigour, that of the vestments strong and rich. The hands are well drawn, perhaps a little contracted in the muscles, but still of startling realism. — On the right of Christ the Virgin sits in her traditional robe of blue^ her long fair hair, bound to the forehead by a diadem , flowing in waves down her shoulders. With most graceful hands she holds a book, and pensively looks with a placid and untroubled eye into space. On the left of the Eternal, St. John the Baptist rests, long-haired and bearded , austere in expression, splendid in form, and covered with a broad, flowing, green drapery. On the spectator's right of St. John the Baptist, St. Cecilia, in a black brocade, plays on an oaken organ supported by three or four angels with viols or harps. On the left of the Virgin a similar but less beautiful group of singing choristers standing in front of an oaken desk, the foremost of them dressed in rich and heavy red brocade. (Van Mander declares that the angels who sing are so artfully done that we mark the difference of keys in which their voices are pitched.) — On the spectator's right of St. Cecilia once stood the naked figure of Eve, now removed to the Brussels museum — a figure upon which the painter seems to have concentrated all his knowledge of perspective as applied to the human form and its anatomical development. Counterpart to Eve, and once on the left side of the picture, Adam is equally remarkable for correctness of proportion and natural realism. Here again the master's science in optical perspective is conspicuous , and the height of the figure above the eye is fitly con- sidered. (Above the figures of Adam and Eve are miniature groups of the sacrifices of Cain and Abel and the death of Abel.).' 'Christ, by his position, presides over the sacrifice of the Lamb as represented in the lower panels of the shrine. The scene of the sacrifice is laid in a landscape formed of green hills receding in varied and pleasing lines from the foreground to the extreme distance. A Flemish city, meant, no doubt, to represent Jerusalem, is visible chiefly in the background to the rights but churches and monasteries, built in the style of the early edifices of the Netherlands and Rhine country, boldly raise their domes and towers above every part of the horizon, and are sharply defined on a sky of pale grey gradually merging into a deeper hue. The trees, which occupy the middle ground, are not of high growth, nor are they very dilTerent in colour from the undulating meadows in which they stand. They are interspersed here and there with cypresses, and on the left is a small date-palm. The centre of the picture is all meadow and green slope, from a foreground strewed with daisies and dandelions to the distant blue hilla.' 'In the very centre of the picture a square altar is hung with red damask and covered with white cloth. Here stands a lamb, from whose breast a stream of blood issues into a crystal glass. Angels kneel round the altar with parti-coloured wings and variegated dresses, many of them praying with joined hands, others holding aloft the emblems of the pas- sion, two in front waving censers. From a slight depression of the ground to the right, a little behind the altar, a numerous band of female saints is issuing, all in rich and varied costumes, fair hair floating over their shoulders , and palms in their hands ; foremost may be noticed St. Barbara with the tower and St. Agnes. From a similar opening on the left, popes, cardinals, bishops, monks, and minor clergy advance, eome Cathedral GHENT. 7. Route. 43 holding croziers and crosses, other palms. This, as it were, forms one phase of the adoration. In the centre near the base of the picture a small octagonal fountain of stone , with an iron jet and tiny spouts, projects a stream into a rill, whose pebbly bottom is seen through the pellucid water. The fountain and the altar, with vanishing points on different horizons, prove the Van Eycks to have been unacquainted with the science of linear perspective. Two distinct groups are in adoration on each side of the fountain. That on the right comprises the twelve apostles, in light greyish violet cloaks kneeling bare-footed on the sward, with long hair and beards , expressing in their noble faces the intensity of their faith. On their right stands a gorgeous array of three popes, two cardinal monks, seven bishops, and a miscellaneous crowd of church and laymen. The group on the left of the fountain is composed of kings and princes in various costumes, the foremost of them kneeling, the rest standing, none finer than that of a dark bearded man in a red cloth cap stepping forward in full front towards the spectator, dressed in a dark blue mantle, and holding a sprig of myrtle. The whole of the standing figures command prolonged attention from the variety of the attitudes and expressions, the stern resolution of some, the eager glances of others, the pious resignation and contemplative serenity of the remainder. The faithful who have thus reached the scene of the sacrifice are surrounded by a perfect wilderness of flowering shrubs, lilies, and other beautiful plants, and remain in quiet contemplation of the Lamb.' 'l^umerous worshippers besides are represented on the wings of the triptych , moving towards the place of worship. On the left is a band of crusaders, the foremost of whom, on a dapple grey charger, is clad in armour with an undercoat of green slashed stuff, a crown of laurel on his brow, and a lance in his hand. On his left two knights are riding, also in complete armour, one on a white, the other on a brown charger, carrying lances with streamers. Next to the third figure, a nobleman in a fur cap bestrides an ass, whose ears appear above the press ; on his left a crowned monarch on a black horse; behind them a crowd of kings and princes. In rear of them, and in the last panel to the left, Hubert Van Eyck with long brown hair, in a dark cap, the fur peak of whiih is turned up, ambles forward on a spirited white pony. He is dressed in blue velvet lined with grey fur; his saddle has long green housings. In the same line with him two riders are mounted on sorrel nags, and next them again a man in a black turban and dark brown dress trimmed with fur, whom historians agree in calling John Van Eyck. _ The face is turned towards Hubert, and therefore away from the direction taken by the cavalcade-, further in rear are several horsemen. The two groups proceed along a sandy path , which yields under the horses' hoofs , and seems to have been formed by the detritus of a block of stony ground rising perpendicularly behind, on each side of which the view extends to a rich landscape, with towns and churches in the distance on one hand, and a beautiful vista of blue and snow mountains on the other. White fleecy clouds float in the sky. There is not to be found in the whole Flemish school a picture in which human figures are grouped, designed, or painted with so much perfection as in this of the mystic Lamb. Nor is it possible to find a more complete or better distributed composition, more natural attitudes, or more dignified expression. Nowhere in the pictures of the early part of the 15th century can such airy landscape be met. Nor is the talent of the master confined to the appropriate representation of the human form, his skill extends alike to the brute creation. The horses, whose caparisons are of the most precious kind, are admirably drawn and in excellent movement. One charger stretches his neck to lessen the pressure of the bit; another champs the curb with Flemish phlegma; a third throws his head down between his fore legs; the pony ridden by Hubert Van Eyck betrays a natural fire, and frets under the restraint put upon it.' 'On the right side of the altarpiece we see a noble band of ascetics with tangled hair and beards and deep complexions, dressed in frock and cowl, with staves and rosaries, moving round the base of a rocky 44 Route 7. GHENT. Cathedral. bank, the summit of which is wooded and interspersed with palms and orange trees. Two female saints , one of them the Magdalen, bring up the rear of the hermit band, which moves out of a grove of orange trees with glossy leaves and yellow fruit. In the next panel to the right, and in a similar landscape, St. Christopher, pole in hand, in a long red cloak of inelegant folds , overtops the rest of his companions — pilgrims with grim and solemn faces. Here a palm and a cypress are painted with surprising fidelity.' 'The altarpiece, when closed, has not the all-absorbing interest of its principal scenes when open. It is subdivided first into two parts, in the upper portion of which is the Annunciation, in the lower the portraits of Jodocus Vydts and his wife , and imitated statues of St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist. In the semicircular projection of the upper central panel are the Sibyls, whilst half figures of Zachariah and Micah are placed in the semicircles above the annunciate angel and Virgin. With the exception of Jodocus and his wife and the Annun- ciation, the whole of this outer part of the panels may have been executed under supervision by the pupils of the Van Eycks.' — Crowe d: Cavalcaselle. The Early Flemish Painters. 2nd Ed. 1872. This work "has undergone various vicissitudes. Philip II. endea- voured to obtain possession of it, but at length was obliged to be satis- fied with a copy executed for him by Coxie. In 1566 it was with difficulty rescued from Puritanical outrage, and in 1641 saved from danger of burning. An expression of disapproval by the Emp. Joseph II., in 1784, regarding the nude figures of Adam and Eve induced the churchwardens to keep the picture under lock and key. In 1794 it was taken to Paris, and when it was restored in 1815 the central pictures only were replaced in their original positions, while the wings were ignorantly, or from avaricious motives, sold to a dealer, from whom they were purchased by the museum of Berlin for 410,000 fr. The two wings with Adam and Eve were kept con- cealed at Ghent, as being unsuitable for a church, down to 1861, when they were removed to the museum at Brussels. 7th Chapel : Honthorst, Pieta ; at the side, De Crayer, Christ on the Cross. — 8th: Monuments of bishops of the 18th cent., by Helderenberg and Verschaffelt. — 9th. The altar-piece, representing the Betrothal of St. Catharine with the Infant Christ, and the Virgin with the holy women, is by N. de Liemaeckere, surnamed Roose. — 10th : *Rubens, St. Bavon renounces his military career in order to assume the cowl. The figure of the saint is said to represent the master himself in the upper part of the picture, where he is received on the steps of the church by a priest, after having distributed all his property among the poor. To the left are two women, said to be portraits of the two wives of Rubens, both in the costume of that period; one of them appears to be disengaging a chain from her neck, as if she would follow the example of the saint. At the altar : 0. Vaenius, Raising of Lazarus, adjoining which is the monument of Bishop Damant (d. 1609). — We now descend the steps. To the left is the monument of a bishop of the 18th century. The Saceisty contains the Treasury, with the silver reliquary of St. Macarius (Chasse de St. Macaire), a Renaissance work of 1616. Belffy. GHENT. 7. Route. 45 Of the Crypt beneath the choir the W. parts only, resting on low pillars, belong to the original structure, which was consecrated in 941. The E. part, with its numerous chapels, is Gothic. Hubert van Eyck and his sister Margaret are buried here. The Tower (446 steps) affords a finer *View than the Belfry (fee 2 fr. for 1-4 persons; apply to the verger in the sacristy). The modern Episcopal Palace is on the E. side of the church, jacent is the building containing the rich Archives of E.Flanders. The Belfry {Beffroi; PL C, 4), a lofty square tower which has attained two-thirds only of the projected height, rises near the cathe- dral, almost in the centre of the city, of which it commands a fine panorama. The construction was begun in 1183 ; in 1339 the works were suspended. In 1839-53 it was provided with an iron spire. Etymologists differ as to the origin of the word belfry, but the most probable derivation is from the German Bergfried (watch- tower; low Lat. helfredus)^ so that the resemblance between the first syllable and the English word 'bell' is purely fortuitous. One of the first privileges usually obtained by the burghers from their feudal lords was permission to erect one of these watch or bell- towers, from which peals were rung on all important occasions to summon the people to council or to arms. — The concierge, who accompanies visitors to the top of the tower (1 fr. each pers.), lives in the Cloth Hall (see below). In the interior of the tower are two square rooms, one above the other, with Gothic windows. The third gallery, at a height of 270 ft., is reached by 386 steps; the total height to the point of the spire is 375 ft. The staircase is dark and rather steep. The spire is surmounted by a vane, consisting of a gilded dragon, 10 ft. in length, made at Ghent in 1380. The View embraces a great portion of Flanders, as well as an ad- mirable survey of the city. When the Duke of Alva proposed to Charles V. that he should destroy the city which had occasioned him so much annoyance, the monarch is said to have taken him to the top of the belfry, and there to have replied : ' Combien faudrait-il de peaux d'Espagne pour fair e un Qant de cette grandeur P — thus rejecting the cruel sug- gestion of his minister. The tower contains 44 bells. A hole in one of them was made by a cannon-ball fired at the belfry by the Austrians from the old citadel in 1789, in order to prevent the citizens from ringing the alarm. The ball did not miss its aim, but failed to effect its purpose, for the tone of the bell continued unimpaired. One of the oldest and heaviest bells, which was recast in 1659, bears the inscription: '■Myn naem is Roelant; als icJc kleppe dan isH brand ; als ick htyde, is''t viclorie in Vlaenderland' (My name is Roland; when I am rung hastily, then there is a fire-, when I resound in peals, there is a victory in Flanders). The portal added to the Belfry in the 18th cent, on the side next the Marche au Beurre (see below) is called '' Mammelolcker\ a Flemish word applied to the colossal relief over the entrance, representing a woman giving sustenance from her own breast to an old man in chains at her feet {'■Chariti Romaine''), An interesting Gothic building in the Rue St. Jean , adjoining the Belfry, erected in 1385 (now restored), was formerly the Cloth Hall. The " ~ 46 Route 7. GHENT. Hotel de Ville. Michael (Confr^rie desEscrimeurs ditede St. Michel), founded in the 17th cent., is shown hy the concierge. In the Marche au Beurre (Botermarkt ; PI. C, 4) is situated the *H6tel de Ville (PL C, 4], which consists of two entirely different parts. The picturesque N. facade towards the Rue Haut-Port, con- structed in 1518-33, in the florid-Gothic [Flamhoyant) style, from designs hy Dominicus de Waghemakere and Rombout Keldermans (p. 135), was restored in 1870, together with the interior, under the superintendence of Viollet-le-Due and PauU ; it is perhaps the most heautiful piece of Gothic architecture in Belgium. The clumsy E. facade, towards the market-place, with its three tiers of columns, was constructed in 1595-1622, in the Renaissance style. The 'Interios containa a series of fine Gothic rooms and an interest- ing Gothic staircase (concierge generally on the groundfloor; fee Yz-i fr.). On the first floor of the wing dating from the end of the 15th cent. , is the Council Hall or Salle des Etats, with timber-roof, lofty Gothic windows, and two artistic chimney-pieces. The 'Pacitication of Ghent' , a treaty drawn up by a congress of the Confederates who assembled here in 1576 with a view to expel the Spaniards from the Xetherlands , was signed either in this hall, where a commemorative tablet was erected in 1876, or in the Salle de VArsenal (built in 14S2-84) beyond the chapel. — The lofty Chapel now serves as the Salle des Mariages^ or office for civil mar- ringes. Above the door, a large painting by £". Wauters: Mary of Burgundy intervening in favour of two ministers condemned by the people. The Archives are very important, containing documents reaching back to the 13th century. The artistically executed coats-of-arms of magistrates on the bindings of the account books of the town (from the end of the 15th cent, downwards), here displayed, are of considerable heraldic importance. In the Marche aux Poulets (poultry market'), behind the Hotel de Ville, is the office of the Charitable Society^ containing an interesting room with wood-carvings and paintings of the 17th cent. (Charles V., Albert and Isabella, etc.). At the chimney-piece, which is of carved wood, are two statuettes of orphans in the costume of the period (16S0). Small fee to tlie keeper (ring). Opposite the N. facade of the Hotel de Yille is the Rue des Grainiers, or Zaadsteeg, ending in the Rue Basse, which we cross ohliquely to the Rue du Serpent, leading to the Rue des Peignes (Kammer-Straat), in which, to the right, appears the dome of the Flemish Academy. The last-named street brings us to the — Marche du Vendredi {^Vrydagmarkt ; PL C, D, 3, 4), an exten- sive square, now planted with trees. The most important events in the history of Ghent have taken place here. Homage was here done to the Counts of Flanders on their accession, in a style of magni- ficence unknown at the present day, after they had sworn , ' alle de bestaende wetten , vorregten , vryheden en gewoonten vanH graafschap en van de stad Gent te onderhouden en te doen onder- houden' (to maintain and cause to be maintained all the existing laws, privileges, freedoms, and customs of the county and city of Ghent; comp. p. 51). Hither the members of the mediaeval guilds, 'ces tetes dures de Flandre', as Charles V. termed his countrymen, flocked at the sound of the bell to avenge some real or imaginary infringe- ment of their rights, and here the standard of revolt was invariably Marche du Vendredi. GHENT. 7. Route, 47 erected. Here Jacques van Artevelde (p. 38) burned the papal interdict against Flanders in 1345 ; and in this square, on May 2nd, 1345, Gerard Denys at the head of his party, which consisted chiefly of weavers, attacked his opponents the fullers with such fury that even the elevation of the host failed to separate the combatants, of whom upwards of 1500 were slain. This fatal day was subsequently entered in the civic calendar as '■ Kwade Maandag'' (Wicked Monday). Under the rule of the Duke of Alva his auto-da-fe's were enacted in the Marche du Vendredi. On a pedestal, 18 ft. high, in the centre of the square, rises a bronze Statue of Jacques van Artevelde (PI. 24; D, 3), over life- size, executed by Devigne-Quyo (1863). The powerful demagogue is represented fully accoutred, in the act of delivering the celebrated speech in which he succeeded in persuading the citizens of Ghent to enter into an alliance with England against the will of the Count of Artois. The reliefs on the pedestal have reference to the three most important treaties concluded by Artevelde in behalf of Flan- ders. The ancient buildings which formerly lent an interest to this square are now represented by a single house at the corner of the Rue des Peignes, on the S. side, known as the Toreken, formerly the guildhouse of the tanners, dating from the 14th or 15th cen- tury. — A view of the principal towers of the city is obtained from the N. side of the market. At the N.W. corner of the Marche du Vendredi is placed a huge cannon, called the '■DuUe Griete' (Mad Meg; 14th cent.), 19 ft. long and lift, in circumference (resembling 'Mons Meg', a similar cannon in Edinburgh Castle). Above the touch-hole is the Bur- gundian Cross of St. Andrew, with the arms of Philippe le Bon (1419-1467). — The narrow Pont du Laitage (Zuivelbrug) leads hence to the street called Oudburg, in which are two private houses of the 17th cent, (one named the 'Vliegenden Hert'). Farther on are the Museums (pp. 51, 52). At the back of the E. side of the Marche du Vendredi rises the Church of St. Jacques (PL 8; D, 4), originally founded about the year 1100. The present edifice dates from the end of the 15th or beginning of the 16th cent., but the W. towers, and the lower part of the central tower are Romanesque. The facade has recently been restored in the original style. The Interior contains several pictures by Jan van Cleef. In tlie left aisle are two paintings by O. de Grayer: Members of the Order of the Trinity ransoming Christian captives, and the Virgin. In the right aisle is the Departure of the youthful Tobias, by Jan Maes-Canini. The two pictures of Apostles in the choir are by Van Huff el. Near the pulpit is a statue of the Apostle James by Van Poucke. The handsome marble taberna- cle dates from the IGth century. Here also is the tomb of Jean Palfyn (p. 57), by Van Poucke. The Botanic Garden {Plantentuin ; PI. D, 3), in the immediate vicinity, is the finest in Belgium. (Entrance on the Steendam or at No. 21 Rue St. Georges, a street traversed by the tramway running to 48 Route 7. GHENT. Abbey of St. Bavon, the Antwerp Gate.) It was founded in 1797, and is commonly known as the Baudeloohof. The hot-houses (Victoria Regia, etc.) are extensive. — The suppressed Baudeloo Convent contains the A -MadeietM. B. 1 . "^ lO.^JTc/J^f . (.'.2 It.Jf/Vizf B.4. ^ B on. I. ^V if^ U.S^Quentm B23'18./l>rt« B..' ^^'5 J ^d )2Jtede7iTptariTte^<:2\\'!i.SaUe des Concerts ^^ '^I'si etRedmaes. ,B.: 5 EcolfJKl' U.Banqiie nat^ .(:X2Q.Sfatup^ cLe. la. i5JIota de yaU . A34i PrincMso d'Ejrnoj'i'- X^.Muxee dTdstaire \2\-77udrre " A.! 1. natureRe }i2i:)22^IonumtduMarUpr Z.\ '^l.TaLais episcopal '^Z^ZiJccut^de&BemjjiAiis'R.Q^ T" VaLenS^^DebTfiTLeT j freoTTapK. -Anstalt -< TOURNAI. 9. Route. 59 At Courtrai the Tournai line quits the flat land and enters an undulating and picturesque district. The Flemish language gives way to the French. 31 M. Lauioe ; 35 M. Mouscron (the s mute), the Belgian douane for travellers arriving from France. From Mousceon to Lille, 11 M., railway in 37 min. (fares 2 fr. 20, 1 fr. 65, 1 fr. 20 c.). — 3V2 M. Tourcoing (Hdtel'du Ci/gne), a busy manufactur ing town of 65.500 inhab., with a monument commemorating the defeat of the English and Austrians by Jourdain and Moreau in 1794. — 5 M. Roubaix (JSdiel Ferraille), an important wool-combing and linen-manufacturing town, the population of which has risen during the present century from 8000 to 115,000 (comp. Baedeker^ i Northern France). — Near Croix-Wasquehal the train crosses the Roubaix Canal, which connects the Deule with the Schelde. — 11 M. lAlle., see p. 65. The next station, Herseaux, is connected by a branch-line with Renaix (p. 56), via Avelghem (p. 36). Between Nechin and Templeuve the Belgian line quits the province of West Flanders for that of Hainault (Germ. Hennegau). To the left rises Mont St. Aubert (p. 62). Froyennes is also a station on the line to Lille (p. 67). — The train crosses the Schelde , and finally stops on the handsome quay constructed by Louis XIV. at — 48 M. Tournai. 9. Tournai. Arrival. The Station (PI. D, 3), opened for traffic in 1879, is a hand- some building by Beyaert of Brussels. Hotels. Hotel Petite Nef (PI. c; B, 2), Rue du Cygne 30, R.. L., & A. 272, B. 1, D. 21/2, omn. 1/2 fr. ; Bellevue (PI. d; C. 2), Quai Dumon 6, with an estaminet, R. IV2 fr. ; Hotel de Hollande (PL a; D, 3), Hotel DBS Neuf ProviNCES (PI. b; D, 3), Place Crombez, both in the Rue Royale, near the station, moderate. — Table d'hote in all at 1 p.m. Restaurants. Taverne Alsacienne and Restaurant Bavaro-Belge, in the Grande Place (PI. B, 3) ; Taverne du Globe, Taverne Franraise, Rue Royale, near the station. — Cafi de PEurope, Grande Phice. About 3-3V2 hrs. will suffice for a visit to the Cathedral, the Church of St. Quentin, and the pictures in the Hotel de Ville. Tournai, Flem. Doornik, with 35,700 inhab., situated on both banks of the Schelde or Escaut, the most important and prosperous town of Hainault, and one of the most ancient in Belgium, was the Civitas Nerviorum of Ciesar, afterwards called Turnacum. In the 5th century it was the seat of the Merovingian kings. At a later period the town belonged to France, but in 1525 it was united with the Spanish Netherlands in accordance with the Peace of Madrid. In 1581 Tournai was heroically defended against Alexander of Parma by the Princess d'Epinoy, who, although wounded in the arm, refused to quit the ramparts, and did not surrender the fortress until the greater part of the garrison had fallen. In 1667 the town was taken after a protracted siege by Louis XIY., who caused it to be fortified by Yauban, and in 1709 it was captured by the Im- perial troops under Prince Eugene and the Duke of Marlborough. In 1745 Tournai again fell into the hands of the French, and in 1748 it was assigned to the Netherlands by the Treaty of Aix-la- 60 Route 9. TOURNAI. Cathedral. Chapelle. The old -walls have been converted into promenades. — The pretender, Perkin Warheck, was horn here. Stockings, faience, and carpets are the staple manufactures of Tournai. The latter are generally known as Brussels carpets. The art of weaving carpets is said to have been brought to Europe by Flem- ings, who learned it from the Saracens at the time of the Crusades. Most of the carpets are made by the work-people in their own dwell- ings, and as there are few large factories in the town, it presents a much cleaner and pleasanter appearance than the other large in- dustrial towns of Belgium. The Quays, planted with trees, contri- bute to this effect. The river is generally crowded with barges, most of which are laden with coal from the mines of Mons, and are bound for Ghent, etc. The *Cathedral [Notre Dame; PI. 4; B, 3), a noble example of the Romanesque style , rises conspicuously above the houses on the left bank, the older and more important part of the town. It is a cruciform basilica borne by pillars, with a retro-choir and radiating chapels, and has five towers above the cross and two corner-turrets on the facade. The nave, which was not vaulted until the 18th cent., was begun in 1146, and consecrated in 1213. The transept was erected in the 13th cent, by French masters, on the model of the Cologne churches. The beautiful Gothic choir is of later date, and was consecrated in 1338, and the facade, originally Ro- manesque, was altered and provided with a porch in the pointed style about the same period (comp. p. xxxvii). Among the sculp- tures in the porch, which were executed at various periods from the 13th to the 17th century, are interesting reliefs representing the Creation, Fall, and Expulsion from Paradise, by sculptors of Tournai, dating from about the year 1200 (see p. xxxix). The Interior was purged in 1852 of the unsuitable additions with which it had been disfigured in the course of centuries, and is now strikingly impressive. It consists of nave and aisles 136 yds. in length ; nave 78 ft. wide and 78 ft. high ; breadth of transept 73 yds. ; height of choir 107 ft. The walls above the aisles are relieved by a triforium. The large chapel adjoining the left aisle was added in 1516-18. The capitals of the pillars, which are asso- ciated with columns, are particularly rich and varied. The propor- tions of the transept are more graceful, and the galleries lower. The cliurcli contains a few pictures. In the Chapelle St. Louis, the fir>t of the S. (right) Aisle, on the posterior wall, a Crucifixion by Jordaemt. The chapel of the N. Aisle (Chapelle Paroissiale de JVotre-Bame), which contains some modern stained glass, is used for the ordinary services of the cathedral, the choir being reserved for episcopal functions. — In the Transept, right, a Holy Family with a glory of angels, painted by M. de Nkgve in 1650. The subjects of the stained-glass windows, executed about the year 1465, refer to the history of the bishopric of Tournai, which received important privileges in the 6th cent, from King Childeric for services rendered in his war against his brother, the Austrasian monarch Sigebert (right transept), and in the 12th cent, from Pope Eugenius III. (left transept). — The richly sculptured Rood-loft, which separates the Belfry. TOURNAI. 9. Route. 61 choir from the nave, executed by Corn, de Vriendt in the Renaissance style, with marble reliefs from the Old and New Testament, was erected in 1566 ; it is surmounted by a large group in bronze by Lecreux, represent- ing St. Michael overcoming Satan. — The stained glass of the Choir by Capronnier is modern. Ambulatory, beginning on the left side of the rood-loft : Lancelot Blon- deel, Judgment of Solomon, Visitation, Adoration, etc.; Gallait , Christ restoring the blind to sight, one of the master's earliest works. Farther on, adjoining the high-altar, is the Eomanesque Reliquary of St. Eleu- theritis , the first Bishop of Tournai (6th cent.), elaborately executed in silver-gilt in the year 1247, and adorned with the figures of the Twelve Apostles. At the back of the high-altar is a Pieta by Duquesnoy (17th cent.), above which is a bishop's tomb with recumbent figure, and two tablets with the names of all the bishops and canons of Tournai. On the other side of the high-altar is the Reliquary of St. Piat. of about 1280. — Then in the Chapel to the left , which is adorned with stained glass commemorating the Council of 1870, is a large picture by Rubens. Rescue of souls from Purgatory, a bold composition. The Sacristy contains a very valuable "Crucifix in ivory by Duquesnoy, a reliquary of the Merovingian period in the shape of a Greek cross, and an ivory diptych of the 11th century. Opposite the Episcopal Palace (PI. 17; B, 3) is the public Li- brary, containing ahout 8000 early printed works and 250 MSS. The Belfry (PI. 3; B, 3), to the S.W. of the cathedral, dates from 1187, but was partly rebuilt in 1391 and restored in 1852. The spire is modern. A set of chimes, placed in the tower in 1878, plays every half-hour. The ascent is recommended, particularly for the sake of the view of the cathedral (260 steps to the platform ; door-keeper at the entrance and custodian at the top, 25 c. each). The triangular Grande Place (PI. B, 3) in the centre of the town is embellished with a Statue of the Princess d'Epinoy (PL 20), in bronze, designed by Dutrieux. The heroic lady is re- presented in complete armour, with a battle-axe in her hand, lead- ing her fellow-citizens against the enemy (see p. 59). To the S. of this statue is the former Cloth Hall (Halle aux Draps)^ a Renaissance building of 1710, restored since 1881. On the first floor is the Municipal Picture Gallery (adm. 50 c. ; cata- logue 25 c). Among the ancient works are : Madonna, in the style of Blondeel; Descent from the Cross, ascribed to Roger van der Weyden; St. Donatus by Mabuse (?) ; portraits by Van Oost, Van Baelen, etc.; Landscape by Van Thulden; and an equestrian por- trait of Louis XIV. by Lehrun. Among the modern works are : *Oallait (p. 62), Dead bodies of Counts Egmont and Hoorne ; several portraits by the same; Van Severdonck, Defence of Tournai by the Princess d'Epinoy. In the E. and W, galleries is the Musee Archeo- logique, containing fine ivory carvings (Table XV., Binding of a copy of the Gospels, 11th cent.; Coronation of the Virgin, 14th cent.), works in metal, faience, coins, and MSS. with miniatures, including a psalter that belonged to Henry VIII. of England, a 'Livre d'Heures' of the 15th cent., and the 'Roman de la Rose', of the 14th century. 62 Route 9. TOURNAI. On the N. side of the Place is situated the church of *St. Quentin (PI. 12; B, 3), sometimes called ^La Petite Cathedrale\ a remarkably elegant structure, erected about the same period as the cathedral. The fagade and interior form an excellent example of the transitional style. The large paintings (of little value) in the nave represent the Foundation of the Order of the Trinitarians for the purpose of ransoming Christian captives (1198), and the Battle of Lepanto (1571). The stained glass is by Bethune (1858). The priory-buildings of the suppressed Monastery of St. Martin, situated in a garden on the S.W. side of the town, now serve as the Hotel de Ville (PI. 15; A, 3, 4), the tympanum of which con- tains the arms of the town, a tower with three lilies. The sumptuous 'Salon de la Reine' deserves a visit. — In front is a statue of Louis Gallait (1810-87), the painter, a native of Tournai, with reliefs of scenes in his life, on the pedestal. In the adjoining buildings is a Natural History Museum (PL 16). The church of St. Jacques (PL 6; B, 2), dating from the 12th and i4th cent, and recently restored by Bryenne, somewhat resem- bles that of St. Quentin. St. Brice (PL 5; C, 3, 4), a church of the 12th cent. , on the right bank of the Schelde , contained the tomb of Childeric (d. 480; father of Clovis), King of the Franks, which was discovered in 1653 on the destruction of a house adjoining the church. A number of interesting curiosities, most of which are now preserved in the National Library at Paris , were found in the coffin ; among them were upwards of 300 small figures in gold, resembling bees, with which the royal robes are said to have been decorated. Xapoleon, on the occasion of his coronation , preferred them to the fleurs-de-liis as insignia of the imperial dignity. A clasp for fastening a cloak is still in the possession of the church and is exhibited in the sacristy, along with two silver cups and two reliquaries of the 14th century. Near the church of St. Brice are a few mediaeval houses, one known as the MaisonRomaine. Another ancient edifice is the Tour de Henri VIU. with two vaulted apartments, one above the other. — The new Palais de Justice and the Theatre also deserve mention. The old bridge called Pont des Trous (PL C, 1), which crosses the Schelde at the lower end of the town in three pointed arches, was built in 1290. Both ends are defended by strong towers. Above the bridge is the Square Du Mortier, which is embellished with a marble statue of B. Bu Mortier (b. at Tournai in 1797; d. 1878), the naturalist and Belgian statesman, by Fraikin, erected in 1883. Mont St. Aubert (p. 59), sometimes called Ste. TriniU from the small church of that name on the top, commands a very extensive panorama, although only 425 ft. in height, being the only eminence in the district, and is well worthy of a visit. The summit is about 3 31. distant. Car- riage in 3/4 hr. (3-4 fr.). — The Pierre Brunehault, a huge monolith near Hollain, is possibly Druidical. 63 10. From Ghent to Antwerp. a. State Railway vik Deudermonde and Fuers. 43 M. Eailwat in li '2-21/2 lirs. (fares 6fr. 25, 3 fr. 95, 2 fr. 65 c. ; express 6 fr. 55, 4 fr. 90, 3 fr. 30 c). Ghent, see p. 36. — The line crosses the Schelde. 1 1/4 M. Lede- herg; I'^l-i M. Meirelbeke. On the other side of the Schelde is the quaint chateau of Laerne, with towers dating from the 12th century (steam-tramway to Ghent, see p. 10). 4 M. Melle, the junction of the line to Charleroi and Braine-le-Comte (R. 20). 6 M. QuatrecM. The train follows the winding course of the Schelde. 8 M. Wetteren. At (10 M.) Schellebelle our line diverges from that to Brussels via Alost (R. 3). 121/2 M. Wichelen; 14M. Schoonaerde ; 16 M. Audeg- hem , beyond which the train crosses the Dendre. 18 M. Dendermonde , Fr. Termonde [Cafe Royal, The d'Or, Renaissance, all in the Grand' Place; Geerinckx, Rue de Bruxelles), a small fortified town (8500 inhab.) on the right bank of the Schelde (here crossed by a bridge) and on both banks of the Dendre, a navigable tributary of the Schelde. Louis XIV. besieged this place in 1667, but was compelled to retreat, as the besieged, by opening the sluices, laid the whole district under water. Marlborough took it in 1706 after a bombardment of ten days. The old church of Notre Dame possesses two good pictures by Van Dyck, a Cruci- fixion, and Adoration of the Shepherds ; also a work by De Crayer, and a Romanesque font of the 12th century. The Hotel de Ville, with five gables and sculptured decoration, was originally the cloth- hall, and dates, with its belfry, from the 14th century. Adjacent is the Grande Garde, or guard-house, with an octagonal tower and a portico of the 18th century. Monuments have been erected here to the Flemish poet Prudens van Duyse (d. 1859) and to the Jesuit missionary P. de Smedt. From Dendekmoxde to St, Nicolas, via Hamme, 13 M., by railway in 45 min. (see p. 64); to Lokeeen via Zele (p. 10), 9M., in V2 br. (see p. 64): to Alost, 71/2 M. , in 25 min. (p. 11; and to Brussels, 20 M., via. Opwyck (p. 11) and Jette (p. 11), in 3/4-I hr. At (21 M.) Baesrode the line to Malines diverges (see p. 136). 24 M. St. Amand-lez-Puers ; 27 M. Puers, where our line crosses that from Terneuzen to Malines (p. 136). The train now traverses a marshy district and crosses the Rupel, which is formed about 21/2 M. to the E. by the union of the Dyle and the Nethe. 31 M. Boom (Hot. de I'Univers), a town with 14,000 inhab. and numerous brick-kilns, where our line crosses the line from Alost to Antwerp (see p. 11); 331/2 M. Reeth. — 36 M. Contich, and thence to Antwerp, see p. 136. b. Waasland Railway. 31 M. Railway in 11/4-1^4 br., including the crossing of the Schelde at Antwerp (fares 41/2, 3, or 2 fr.). This is the direct route. Travellers from Ostend or Bruges intending to take this route, book to Ghent only, where 64 lioute 10. ST. NICOLAS. they take a fresh ticket at the station of the Waasland line, 1 M. from that of the state-railway. The train starts from the Waasland Station (p. 36). Immediately on the light is the new Beguinage (p. 48). This line traverses the Waasland, or Pays de Waes, one of the most populous (about 700 pers. to the sq. M.), highly-cultivated, and productive districts in Europe. During the civil wars in Flanders, the Waasland was a sterile moor, but at the present day every square yard is utilised. The train tra- verses arable land, pastures, gardens, woods, and plantations .in rapid succession, while comfortable farm-houses and thriving vil- lages are seen at intervals. It is said that the attention usually de- voted to a garden or a flower-bed is here given to every field ; for the natural soil, being little better than sand, requires to be artificially covered with garden-soil. The agriculture of this tract is, therefore, worthy of the notice of farmers. 4 M. Loochristi, with an old chateau; 7 M. Beirvelde. with the fine modern Tudor chateau of the Countess de Kerchove de Den- terghem. — 12 M. Lokeren (Hotel du Miroir, in the Grand' Place; Hotel des Stations) is a manufacturing town with 17. 500 inhabitants. The Church of St. Lawrence contains some ancient and modern works of art, and a famous pulpit by Verhaghen (1736). Extensive bleaching -grounds in the vicinity. Lokeren is the junction of the lines to Dendermonde and Alost (see p. 63), and to Moerbeke-Selz- aete-Eecloo (p. 10"). — IS^/oM. Mille-Pommes . 191/2 M. St. Nicolas [Hotel du Miroir, in the market, R., L., t*t A. 2, B. 1, D. 2, pens. 6^/2 fr.), a pleasant-looking town with 29,000 inhab., is the busiest manufacturing place in the Waasland. In the market-place, 1/2 M. from the station, are situated the new Hotel de Ville, a handsome building in the Flemish Gothic style, containing a collection of antiquities from the Waasland, and several mediaeval dwelling-houses. The Church of St. Nicolas was com- pleted in 1696. The church of Notre Dame, built by Overstraeten in 1844, contains well-executed mural paintings by Guffens and Swerts, the first attempts at frescoes in Belgium. — A branch- line runs from St. Nicolas to Hamme and Dendermonde (p. 63). Near St. Nicolas the train crosses the Malines and Terneuzen railway. 22 M. Nieuu-kerken. 25 M. Beveren, a wealthy village with 7000 inhab. and an old chateau of the Counts of Bergeyck, is not- ed for its lace. — 281/0 M. Zwyndrecht, where the train passes the outlying fort of that name on the right and a rampart extending to Fort Ste. Marie on the left. At Vlaamsch-Hoofd or Tete de Flandre, the tete-de-pont of Antwerp, on the left bank of the Schelde, a steam ferry-boat awaits the arrival of the train (p. 137). 31 M. Antwerp, see p. 137. &. w '/' ^ Cn ^^23^27 7- 00"^ ooc ooz ocn i ^\ ':? «#c" OOO'OS : T mn a SizdTaT'S'Jtioci^' MitSu^jBd jmijilnti .y ^AB^o 65 11. From London to Brussels via Calais. Vid Dover and Calais Brussels is reached in 81/4 - 9V2 hrs. ; sea- passage 11/2-2 hrs. (fares 2l. Is. 6d., 11. 135. 5d., 11. 2s. 2c?., return U. ds. Id., 31. is. 5d., 21. Os. tid.). Luggage registered at London is not examined till the traveller arrives at Brussels. — [From London to Brussels via Dover and Ostend, see p. 1. — Comp. RR. 1, 3.] Brussels may also be reached from London via Harwich and Antwerp in 151/4 hrs., daily except Sun. (fares il. 10s. 3(f., 18s. 3d., 15s. 8d., retura 21. 6i. 8c?., il. 9s., ll. 55. 4d.), or via Antwerp direct by the General Steam Navigation Co.'s steamers twice weekly, or the 'Baron Osy' once weekly (see p. 189). Calais. — Hotels. Terminos Hotel, at the Gare Maritime; Boffet- HoTEL, at the Central Station ; Grand Hotel, Place Richelieu ; Medeice, Sadvage, Rue de Guise; Dessin, Rue Amiral-Courbet; du Commerce, Rue Royale ; de Londres, Rue de la Cloche. British and United States Consuls. — English Church, Rue du Moulin- Brule. Calais, a fortified town with 56,867 inhab. (including St. Pierre- les-Calais), derives its chief importance from its harbour and its traffic with England, to -which it is the nearest port on the French coast. The Harbour, which is accessible at all states of the tide, has recently been doubled in size by extensive new works at a cost of over 1,500,000^. The Old Harbour, with the former railway- station, lies nearest to the Place d'Armes; the imposing *Ne'w Har- bour farther to the E. The new Gare Maritime, or Maritime Station, where travellers from England find the train waiting, is on the N.E. side of the Avant-Port, and is connected by a short branch-line with the Gare Centrale, which lies between Calais proper and St. Pierre. About 260,000 travellers pass through the town annu- ally. Calais contains about 1500 English residents, chiefly engaged in its tulle-manufactories. See Baedeker's Northern France. 26 M. St. Omer (Hotel de la Porte d'Or et d' Angleterre ; Hotel des Voyageurs), the first important station , is a fortified town with 21,661 inhab. The Cathedral is a fine structure in the transitional style. The English Roman Catholic Seminary here, at which O'Connell was educated, has been abandoned. A number of English families reside at St. Omer for purposes of retrenchment and education. See Baedeker s Northern France. 38 M. Hazebrouck (Buffet-Hotel) is the junction of this line with the railways N. to Dunkirk, N.W. to Ypres (p. 29), and S. to Amiens and Paris. 66 M. Lille. — Hotels. Hotel de l'Eorope (PI. a; E, 3), Rue Basse 30-32; Hotel de France (PI. b; E, 3), Rue Esquermoise 77; Hotel de Flandre et d'Angleterre (PI. c; F, 3), Place de la Gare; Grand Hotel DK Lille (PI. e; F, 3), Rue Faidherbe 20 & 22 ; Jean (PL f; F, 8), Rue Faidherbe 2; de la Paix (PI. g; F, 4), Rue de Paris 46; Singe d'Or, Place du Theatre 36-38 (PI. F,3). Rooms may also be obtained at the station (d^pendance of the Hotel de TEurope). Restaurants. Orand Cafi, Rue Faidherbe 2; Divoir, Rue du Vieux- Warche-aux-Poulets 15; also in most of the hotels and caf^s. Cafes. Grand Cafi, see above; Cafi du Grand Hdtel, Bulens, both in the Rue Faidherbe; Bellevue, de la Paix, in the Grande Place; Cafi Octave, Baedeker's Belgium and Holland. 12th Edit. 5 66 Route 11. LILLE. From Calais Cafi, du Boulevard^ corner of the Rue Nationale and Boulevard de la Liberte. — Taverne de Strasbourg, in the Grande Place. Cabs: per drive 1^ '4 fr., per hr. 1^/4 fr., each succeeding hr. IV2 fr. Tramways traverse all the principal streets (5-15 c. per 'section'). — Steam Tramway to Rouhaix (p. 59) in 1 hr. ; fares 75 or 50c., return 1 fr. 10 or 80 c. Post and Telegraph Office, Place de la Republique (PI. E, 5) and at the station. American Consular Agent, M. C. D. Gregoire, Rue Jean Lavasseur. English Church, Rue Watteau, Boul. de la Liberte ; services at 11 and 6.30; chaplain, Rev. J. S. Phillips, M. A. Lille, originally L'/s^c, Flem. Ryssel, the chief town of tlieFrench Departement da Nord, with 201,211 inhab., was formerly capital of Flanders, hut was taken hy Louis XIY. in 1667, and was finally awarded to France hy the Peace of Utrecht in 1713. It is a fortress of the first class, and is situated in a well-irrigated and fertile plain on the Deule , a navigahle river with which numerous canals are connected. In 1856 the population numbered 78,000 souls, but it has more than doubled since the extension of the fortifications in 1858. Since that period numerous handsome streets and squares have sprung up , particularly on the S. side of the town , to the right of the station. Lille is a very important manufacturing place. Its staple commodities are linen and woollen goods , cotton , cloth, 'Lille thread', machinery, oil, sugar, and chemicals. From the station the handsome Rue Faidherbe leads straight to the Grand Theatre (PL F, 3), whence the Rue des Manneliers runs to the left, passing the Bourse (PI. F, 3), the court of which contains a bronze statue of Napoleon I. by Lemaire (1854), to the Grande Place, the nucleus of the old town. A Column in the centre com- memorates the gallant defence of the town against the Austrians in 1792. On the side of the Place opposite the Rue des Manneliers rises theHotel de Ville(Pl.F, 4), erected since 1846 in the Renais- sance style, and containing the Bibliotheque Communale (open daily 10-10) and a Collection of Engravings. On the staircase is a war-monument for 1870-71. Leaving the Hotel deVille, we cross the large Place in an oblique direction to visit the old town. We proceed through the Rue du Marche-aux-Fromages, the Rue des Pretres , the Rue Basse (right), and the Rue du Cirque (first to the left) to Notre Dame-de-la- Treille (PI. E, F, 3), a church in the style of the 13th cent., designed by the London architects H. Glutton and W. Surges, and begun in 1855. The building was planned on so ambitious a scale that little has been completed. — The Rue Basse leads hence to the left to the Lycee (PI. F, 3), which contains a Natural History Museum, and to the right to the Rue Esquermoise (PI. E, 3) , one of the principal streets of the old town, the appearance of which has been much altered by the construction of the wide Rue Thiers. — The Gothic church of Ste. Catharine(P\. E, 8) contains an *Altar-piece by Rubens, representing the saint's martyrdom. The handsome J5owZcrard de la Liberte (PI. D, E, F, 4, 6) forms the boundary between the old town and the new quarters built in to BrusseU. LILLE. 11. Route. 67 the modern Parisian style. In the Place de la Republique are, to the N.W., the spacious new Prefecture (PL E, 4, 5), and, opposite, he Palais des Beaux-Arts (PI. F, 5), a striking edifice, designed by Berard and Dalmas, and opened in 1892. The collections which it contains are among the most important in France, the *Pictub,b Gallery heing especially rich in examples of the Flemish and Dutch schools. The other collections include drawings, sculptures, antiquities, and museums of ethnography and industrial and decor- ative art. The collections are open to the puhlic daily from 10 to 4 or 5 (Tues. 12-4 or 5). The titles of the pictures and the naiQes of the artists are attached to each work. For details, see Baedeker's Northern France. In the Boulevard de la Liberte, beyond the Palais des Beaux- Arts, at the corner of the Rue Watteau, is the English Church (p. 66), a tasteful Gothic building with stained-glass windows. The Rue de Valmy leads hence to the S. to the Place Philippe-le-Bon (PI. E, 5, 6), with the modern Romanesque church of St. Michel and, to the left, the Palais des Facultes (PI. F, 5), accommodating the faculties of medicine, law, and literature of the University of Lille. The Porte de Paris (PI. F, G, 5), belonging to the old fortifica- tions, but spared on their removal, was built in 16'^2 in the form of a triumphal arch in honour of Louis XIV. — The late-Gothic church of *St. Maurice (PL F, 4"), near the Grande Plane and the railway-station, dates from the 13th century. For a more detailed account of Lille, see Baedeker's Northern France. From Lille to Brussels (68 M., in 21/4-81/9 hrs. ; fares 8 fr, 30, 6 fr. 25, 4fr. 15c.l About 4M. to the S.E. of (41/2 M.) Ascq is situated the village of Bouvines, where Emp. Otho IV. was defeated by Philip Augustus of France in 1214. 71/2 M. Baisieux is the last French, and (11 M.) Blandain the first Belgian station, at each of which there is a custom-house. 14 M. Froyennes (p. 59). 16 M. Toumai, see p. 59. Thence to Courtrai (3/^ hr.), see R. 8. From Toubnai to Mons , via Blaton, 3OV2 M. , railway in IV2-IV4 hr. (fares 3 fr. 75, 2 fr. 80, 1 fr. 90 c.). Route via Leuze (29 M.), see p. 56. — Near Vaulx are the interesting ruins of the so-called Chdteau de Cdsar. About 21/2 M. from Antoing lies Fontenoy^ where Marshal Saxe gained a great victory over the Austrians^and British under the Duke of Cumber- land in 1745. The old Gothic chateau is the seat of the Princess of Ligne. There are numerous lime-pits and lime-kilns in the neighbourhood. — The other stations are Maubrai/, Callene.lle (near the Due de Croy's chateau L" Hermitage)^ Plruwelz (branch to Valenciennes), Blaton (p. 68), where the line from Leuze to Mons is rejoined, Harchies, Pommeroeul, Eautrage- Etat (local line to St. Ghislain, see p. 68), Boussu-Haine, St. Qhislain (p. 56), Quaregnon- Wasmuel, and Jemappes. — Mons, see p. 183 . From Toubnai to Sotteghem, 36 M., railway in about 2V2hrs. (fares 4 fr. 40, 3 fr. 30, 2 fr. 20 c). The chief intermediate station is (I8V2 M.) Renaix (p. 56). Beyond Toumai the undulating and well-cultivated province of Hainault is traversed. Mont St. Aubert (p. 62) long remains con- 5* 68 Route 11. ATH. From Calais spicuous to the left. 2OV2 M. Havinnes ; 241/2 M. Barry-Maulde. 28 M. Leuze, a small stocking-manufacturing town on the Dendre, with a cruciform church restored in 1742, is the junction of the Ghent-Oudenaarde-Leuze-Blaton line (p. 56), 30 M. Chapelle-h- Wattines; 32 M. Ligne, which gives a title to the princely family of that name. About 1 1/4 M. from the station is the chateau of Moul- baix, built in imitation of Windsor Castle and belonging to the Marquis de Chasteler. 35 M. Ath (^Cygne; Paond'Or; Hotel de Bruxelles , near the station ; Hotel de V Vnivers, opposite the station), on the Dendre, formerly a fortress, with 9000 inhab., contains nothing to detain the traveller. The Hotel de Ville was erected in 1600. The church of St. Julian, founded in 1393 , was re-erected in 1817 after a fire. The Tour de Burbant, the most ancient structure in the town, dates in its lower part from 1150. A monument to Eugene Defacqz, a native of Ath who played a prominent part in the events of 1830, was erected in 1880. Numerous lime-kilns in the environs. About 3 M. from Ath are the interesting ruins of Cambron-Casteau, for- merly one of the richest abbeys in Belgium ; they belong to Count de Val de Beaulieu. Ath is the junction for the line from Dendeeleeuw (Alost) to Geam- MONT, Ath, and Juebise (Mons) : 34 M., railway in 2-21/4 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 20, 3 fr. 15, 2 fr. 10 c). — Denderleeuw, see p. 11. The train ascends the left bank of iheDender or Dendre. 2V2M. Okeghem. Then (472M.)Ninove, an old town with 6400 inhab., the seat, as early as the middle of the 12th cent., of a Premonstratensian abbey, of which no trace remains; the parish- church contains two paintings by De Crayer. — The next stations are JSantbergen, Ideghem , and Schendelbeke. 13 M. Grammont , see p. 185. — 16 M. Acren, the first place in Hainault; 17 M. Lessines, with porphyry quarries, is the junction of theEnghien-Renaix line (see p. 69); Papignies; Rebaix. — 25 M. Ath, see above. — Then Muffles, Mevergnies-Attres, Brugelette (with a large orphan -asylum conducted by nuns), Lens, and (34 M.) Jurbise, where the Brussels and Paris line is reached (see p. 183). Feom Ath to Blaton, 12 M., railway in 40 min. (fares 1 fr. 45, 1 fr. 10, 70 c). — The stations are small and uninteresting, with the exception of (7 M.) Beloeil (Couronne; Due de Brabant), a village with the celebrated chateau and estate of the Prince de Ligne, which has been in possession of the family upwards of 500 years. Prince Charles Joseph oif Ligne (1735- 1814), the eminent general and statesman, gives a long account in his let- ters of this estate with its park and gardens , laid out by Le Notre. A statue to the prince has been erected in this village. The park is always open to the public. The chateau contains numerous curiosities of artistic as well as historic interest; a considerable library, with many rareMSS.; admirable pictures , including works attributed to Diirer, Holbein , Van Dyck, Velazquez, Leonardo da Vinci, Michael Angela, and Salvator Rosa, and also specimens of many modern artists; relics (fragments of the 'True Cross' and the 'Crown of Thorns'), and numerous gifts presented to the family by emperors and kings, from Charles V. to Napoleon I. Blaton is the junction for the lines to Leuze and Tournai (see p. 67), Piruwelz-Tournai (seep. 67), and ^.. «J saar&iD2 /^ a /X'N . '^^ ^-^- ^ 5 ^ ' — Szie dc J^j ^^l BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 71 Gr.-H6t. Cosmopolite, Hotel Rotal-Noed, R., L., & A. from 21/2-8, B. 1, dej. 21/2, D. 3V2, pens, from 8fr. ; Grand Hotel de la Marine, R, from y, B. 1, d^j. 2V4, i->. 3 fr., Grand Hotel St. Jean, all with cafes-restau- rants; Hotel de Bavi^re, R., L., & A. from 2^/2, B. 1 I'r., with restaurant; Hotel du Rhin, Rue de Brabant 14, R., L.., & A. 2, B. 1, pens, from 4 fr. ; these two German ; etc. — JVear the Station du Midi: Hotel des Acacias, DE L'EspfiRANCE (good restaurant), both in the Rue Fonsny^ *H6t. de la Terrasse (PI. te : B, 5), Boul. du Midi 54, at the corner of Boul. du llainaut, with restaurant; etc. — Some of the Tavernes mentioned on p. 72 contain cheap and comfortable rooms for genllemen. Pensions. The following family-hotels and pensions are largely patron- ized by British travellers. Witcher's Family Hotel, Boul. de Waterloo 23-25, pens. 6-10 fr. ; De Boek's Family Hotel, Avenue de la Toison d'Or 54 (Place Louise), G1/2-IO fr. ; L. Moreau, Rue Joseph II. 1, pens, from 8 fr. ; S. Ber- nard, Rue Belliard 48 & 50, highly spoken of; Mme. Gachet, Rue Carnly 10, 5-6 fr. ; Mrs. Bradhurtj, Rue des Chevaliers 16, from 6 fr. ; Mrs. Wright, Rue de la Concorde 61, Avenue Louise, 6 fr., highly spoken of; Mme. Janssens, Rue de Jonker 23 (Porte Louise), from 6 fr. ; Molinier- Schumacher , Rue Stassart 82, from 5 fr. ; Miles. Heymann, Rue du Cirque 3, pens. 7-10 fr. ; Mme. Schiirmann, Rue d'Orleans 6i, 6-8 fr. ; Miles. JVeef, Rue des Deux Eglises 8, Quartier Le'opold, 6-8 fr. ; Mile, de Meurs, Rue de Florence 27, 6-8 fr. ; Mrs. Huntley, Rue Guimard 4 and Place de Tlndustrie 9, pens. 6-8 fr.; Miss Jones, Rue de la Longue-Haie 47, Avenue Louise, 5-7 fr. ; Mme. Bourre- coud, Rue J(Uirdan 6, Avenue Louise, 6-9 fr. ; Mme. Bourain, Rue de la Source 72, Chaussee de Charleroi, 5-10 fr. ; Mme. Velut, Rue Berckmans 25, from 4 fr. ; Tremory, Rue de Florence 28, Avenue Louise, 5-8 fr. ; Miles. Tar- ride, Rue Souveraine 87, Avenue Louise, from 5 fr. ; Mme. Lemaieur, Rue de la Longue-Haie 12, Avenue Louise, 6-12 fr. ; Mme. Matthys, Rue du Prince Royal 42; Drapier, Avenue de la Toison d'Or 87, 5-7 fr. ; Mme. Allante, Boul. de "Waterloo 81, 6-8 fr. ; Mme. Deltenre, Rue des Drapiers 24, 5-8 fr.; Termonia, Rue d'Edimbourg 31, from 4 fr. ; Nees, Avenue de la ToLson d'Or 3, 5-9 fr. ; Verbeeck., Rue d'Angleterre 51, near the Station du Midi, 6-8 fr.; Mme. Bus4, Rue de TEsplanade 9, Rue des Drapiers 59, Rue de Naples 31, R. & B. from 5 fr. ; also R. only. Cafes are very numerous and generally good (coffee 30 c, beer 30-35 c., ices 70 c). The most frequented are in the Boulevard Anspach and the Place de la Monnaie. ''Ca/e Mitropole, in the Hotel Metropole (p. 70); ''Seshio, Boul. Anspach 3, *Caf&du Grand Hotel (p. 70), a little to the N. of the Exchange, both with large billiard rooms; several cafes in the Place de la Bourse; "Mille Colonnes, Place de la Monnaie, the oldest of the large cafes ; (Ini- versel (p. 75), Montagne aux Herbes Potageres 2-4 (PI. D, 3), music in the evening ; several frequented cafes in the Place Rogier, near the Gare du Nord. — Ices at the cafe's, also at the following confectioners: Brins v Museb (PL D, 4), the right side of which is flanked by the hotels and restaurants mentioned at pp. 70, 71, while to the left rises the Royal Library (PL D, 5), with a court separated from the street by a stone balustrade. In the court is a statue in bronze (by Jehotte, 1846) of Duke Charles of Lorraine (p. 77). Be- Royal Library. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 93 hind tlie statue is the entrance to the Library which consists of six departments: (1) Printed Books; (2) MSS. ; (3) Engravings and Maps; (4) Coins and Medals; (5) Offices; (6) Periodicals. — The Salle d'Exhihiiion, in which are the most interesting specimens, is on the groundfloor. The Department of the Printed Books (300,000 vols.) is in the left wing of the building. The nucleus of the collection was the library of a M. van Hulthem. purchased in 1837 for 315,000 fr., and incorporated with the old municipal library. In 1860 the library of Johannes Miiller, the physiologist, was added, and in 1872 the musical library of M. F. Fetis and the heraldic and genealogical library of M. F. V. Goethals were presented. — The Library Hall (10-3; in summer 10-4; by permission of the head-librarian also 7-10.30 p.m. ; closed during Passion Week) con- tains a series of portraits of the sovereigns of the country down to Maria Theresa and Joseph II. In a cabinet here are exhibited some beautiful Chinese drawings. — Special permission is required for admission to the Periodicals Room. The Department of the MSS. consists chiefly of the celebrated Bihlio- tMque de Bourgogne. founded in the 15th cent, by Philippe le Bon, Duke of Burgundy, and contains upwards of 24,000 MSS., comprising many of great value. It is especially rich in missals, some of which are illuminated with beautiful miniatures of the old Flemish school. Worthy of notice are : the missal of the Dukes of Burgundy, by Attavante of Florence (1485), afterwards in possession of Matthew Corvinus, King of Hungary; the chronicles of Hainault in seven folio volumes with miniature illustra- tions, and an illustrated title-page (the author Jacques de Gtuise presenting his work to Philip the Good), ascribed, though without sufficient grounds, to Roger van der Weyden ; and a copy of Xenophon's Cyropsedia, used by Charles the Bold. Also, '•Pardon accorde par Charles V. aux Gantois^ (p. 45) of 1540, MSS. as far back as the 7th cent., playing-cards manu- factured at Ulm in 1594, autographs of Francis I., Henri IV., Philip II., Alva, Luther, Voltaire, Rubens, etc. Most of the books in the Burgun- dian Library are bound in red morocco. The most valuable MSS-.- have twice been carried away to Paris by the French. The admirably-arranged Collection of Engravings (upwards of 100.000 in number) is worthy of notice; it is entered from the Muse'e de Peinture. The Flemish masters are admirably represented. One of the most interest- ing plates is an engraving of 1418, the Virgin with saints and angels, found at Malines. — The Collection of Coins is also of importance ; adm. 12-3, entrance Rue du Musee 5. L'Ancienne Couh, a building adjoining the Library on the E., was the residence of the Austrian stadtholders of the Netherlands .after 1731 (comp. p. 77). It now contains the Collection of Modern Paintings, the Royal Archives, and a chapel erected in 1760 and devoted to Protestant worship since 1803, which is known as the Eglise du Musee.-. The Entrance (comp. p. 75) is in the crescent at the N.W. end of the Place du Musee. To the right in the circular entrance hall is the entrance to the Archives Generates du Royaume (adm. daily 9-3), on the groundfloor. To the left we proceed through the glass-door to the staircase, at the foot of which is a statue of Hercules by Delvaux. Sticks and umbrellas are left here with the custodian (no charge). The staircase is of marble, and the lower part of the walls is covered with the same material. The upper part is occupied by plastic decorations in the style of Louis XVI. ; the ceil- 94 Router?. BRUSSELS. Musee Moderne ing-frescoes, representing the seasons, are by J. Stallaert. At tlie top of the staircase we reach another rotunda, -where a door to the left leads to the picture-gallery. The *ColIection of Modern Pictures (adm. , see p. 75), which consists of about 300 paintings and 50 water-colour and other draw- ings, displayed in 16 rooms, illustrates the development of Belgian art since 1830. A new arrangement has recently been carried out. Catalogue, 25 c. The names of the artists and the subjects of the pictures are attached to the frames. Our enumeration begins always to the left of the entrance. Room I. 244. E. Smlts, The seasons ; 120, 121. L. Gallait, Full- length portraits of King Leopold II. and his queen Maria Henrietta: 169. H. Leys, Joyful entry of Charles V. into Antwerp (repetition of the fresco in the Hotel de Yille at Antwerp, see p. 148). Room II. Above the entrance: 185. L. Mathieu, Entombment. — E. wall: 243. E. Sling eneyer. Battle of Lepanto (1556); 278. P. van der Ouderaa, The last refuge (the family Mundi of Douai saved by the Clarissine nuns from the Spaniards during the sack of Antwerp, Nov. 4th, 1756); 286. J. vanLeriui, Erasmus; 76. N. de Keyser. Battle of Worringen (1288) ; Siegfried of Westerburg, Anh- bishop of Cologne, standing before his captors Duke John I. of Brabant and Count Adolf of Berg (1839); 234. F. Roffiaen, Monte Rosa from the Riffelberg; above it, 77. N. de Keyser, Justus Lip- sius. — W. wall : 57. H. de Caisne, Belgium crowning her famous sons (1839). — 146. P. Hunin. Alms-giving. Room III. F. de Braekeleer, 53. Distribution of fruit at a school (•le comte de mi-careme'), 52. The Golden Wedding (W. wall) ; 152. /. Kindermans , Scene in the Ambleve valley; 270. Ph. van Bree, Corpus Christi-day in St. Peter's at Rome. Room IV. 50. E. de Block, Reading in the Bible; 135. E. Ham- man, The mass of Adriaen Willaert; 150. Jac. Jacobs, The Sarps- fos in Norway; 114. L. Gallait, Joanna the Mad of Castile by the dead body of her husband, Philippe le Bel ; 106. Th, Fourmois, Mill ; above, 174. J. Lies, Baldwin III. of Flanders punishing rob-- ber-knights; L. Gallait, 123. Portrait of an old lady, 124. The painters wife and daughter, 115. Art and Liberty; above, 27. J. Czermack, Christian girls in the Herzegovina captured by Bashi-Bo- zouks; L. Gallait, Gipsy; 49. £". de Biefve, The Compromise, or Petition of the Netherlandish nobles in 1565. Count Hooru is repre- sented as signing the document, Egmont in an arm-chair; at the table Philip de Marnix, in a suit of armour; in the foreground, Wil- liam of Orange, in a dark-blue garment ; beside him, Martigny in white satin, and behind him, the Due d'Arenberg. The Count Bre- derode, under the portico to the left, is inviting others to embrace the good cause. This picture (painted in 1841") and Gallait's Abdi- cation of Charles V. mark a new epoch in the history of modern Musee Moderne. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 95 Belgian art. They were exhibited in most of the European capitals in 1843, where they gained universal admiration, and they have contributed materially to the development of the realistic style of painting, in which colour plays so prominent a part. 98. A. Dil- lens., Austrian recruiting-officers in the Netherlands; above, 282. / '^^_ ^ - Lr — "i"'" 1 '■""■ ' 1 XI 1 1 VIII 11 1 1 r'l ' XII Wall Wall IV fl IX S II XIII « £ S ^ III 1 1 ^ Eotonde^^^ XV C. van Hove, Girls of Dordrecht. — End-wall : 176. J. Lies^ Pris- oners of war; 306. Ch. Verlat, Shepherd's dog struggling with an eagle; 171. H. Leys, The sermon; above, 64. Ch. de GVoux, Junius preaching the Reformation in a house at Antwerp, with the light from the stake shining through the window (1860). — S. wall: 266. K. Tschaggeny, The steep road; 107. Th. Fourmois, Landscape; 122. L. Gallait, Portrait; 210. F. Pauwels, The widow of Jacques van Artevelde giving up her jewels for the state; above, 221. L. Robhe, Cattle at pasture near Courtrai; 79. N. de Keyset, Portrait; 155. A. de Knyff, The forest of Stolen ; above, 255. A. Robert, Plunder- ing of the Carmelite Convent at Antwerp at the end of the 16th century; *111. L. Gallait, Abdication of Emperor Charles V., a masterpiece of composition, drawing, and colouring (1841); Char- les V. is under the canopy of the throne, supported on the left by William of Orange, at his feet kneels his son Philip II., on his right is his sister Maria of Hungary in an arm-chair. 154. A. de 96 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Musee Moderne. Knyff^ The deserted gravel-pit-, 12. Fr. Bossuet. Procession at Se- ville. — 226. A. Robert, Luca Signorelli painting his dead son; ahove, 295. E. J. Verboeckhoven. Cattle in the Roman Campagna (1843); 13. Fr. Bossuet, The Abhey of St. Amand at Rouen; 232. W. Eocio/s, Landscape; ahove. 316. G. Wappers, Charles I. of Eng- land on his way to the scaffold. Room V. 216. J. Quinaux, Scene from the valley of the Lesse ; 97. A. Dillens, Skaters ; 170. H. Leys, The studio of Frans Floris ; 265. K. Tschaggeny, Diligence in the Ardennes ; 289. J. B. van Moer, View of Brussels (1868) ; 179. J. B. Madou. Festival; above, 87. E. de Pratere, Farm-horses ; 290. J. B. van Moer, Interior of the church of Santa Maria de Belem near Lisbon : 180. J. B. Madou, The fortune-teller; above, 8. Ch. Baugniet, Visit to the young wi- dow; 288. J. B. van Moer, Baptistery of St. Mark's at Venice; 31."^. Ft. Willems,T]\e bride's toilet; 175. J. Lies. Prometheus bound; 167. H. Leys Restoration of the Roman Catholic service in Antwerp cathedral (1845); 160. F. Lamoriniere, Landscape near Edeghem; 29. P. J. Clays, Coast near Ostend (1863) ; 217. J. (^umawx, Land- scape in Dauphiny. Room VI. 181. J. B. Madou, The village-politicians; 253. J. Stevens, Morning in the streets of Brussels ; 70. Ch. de Qroux, De- parture of the recruit; 157. V. Lagye, The sorceress: 260. F. Stroo- bant, The old guild-houses in the market-place at Brussels; 296. E. J. Verboeckhoven, Little kiti^hen (sketch); 178. J. B. Madou, The mischief-maker (Flemish scene, 18th cent.); above, 223. L. Robbe, Bull attacked by dogs; 229. J. Robie, Flowers and fruit. Room VII. 67. Ch. de Groux, Saying grace; 1. E. Agneessens. Marchant, the sculptor (d. 1833); above. 189. C. Meunier, Tobacco factory at Seville; 258. J. Stobbnerts, Stable: 56. H. de Braeke- leer. Stall; 18. H. Boulenger, Forest-scene; 69. Ch. de Groux, Drunkard by the corpse of his neglected wife ; 80. H. de la Char- lerie. Head of an old man; 21. A. Bouvier, Sun-blink on a rough sea; 14. H. Boulenger, Silvan landscape; above, 5 L. Artan, Sea- piece; 15. H. Boulenger, The Avenue des Charmes at Tervueren. — 100. L. Dubois, Still-life; 312. A. Verwte, Cattle by a river; 142. A. J. Heymans, Heath; 310. A. Verwee, A Zealand team; 16. H. Boulenger, Autumn morning; 148. J. Impens, Flemish tavern. Room VIII. 153. J. B. Kindermans, Landscape; 88. E. de Pra- tere, Ass; 73. G. de Jonghe, The young mother. — To the left, beyond the coupled columns, is the large — Room IX. 188. C. Meunier, Peasants of Brabant defending them- selves in 1797; 10. E. Beernaert, Woodland-scene; J. F. Portaels, 213. Box in the theatre at Pest, 214. The Daughter of Zion, 215. Simoom; above, 246. J. Stallaert, Death of Dido; 7. Th. Barcn, Winter-lands-ape; 211. L. Philippet, Stabbed (Italian street-scene). — *110. L. Gallait, The Plague in Tournai (1092), one of the artist's most celebrated pictures (finished in 1882), Bishop Radbold II. 1 Musee Moderne. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 97 walks in front of the intercessary procession in penitential robes, followed by the chief citizens bearing a figure of the Virgin Mary. — 134. A. J. Hamesse, Evening in the Campines of Antwerp; 206. Ch. Ooms, Forbidden fruit; 275. H. van der Hecht^ The rainbow; above, 222. L. Robhe, Landscape with cattle in the Campines of Antwerp; 32, A. Ciiiysenaar, Emp. Henry IV. at Canossa, 1077; 89. E. de Schampheleer, The Old Rhine near Gouda; 161. F. Lamo- riniere, Landscape; above, E. de Pratere, 85. Cattle-market in the slaughterhouse at Brussels, 86. Asses' heads. Room X. Water-colours, drawings, designs, miniatures, etc. The fine panelling and the carved oven-frame should be noticed. Room XI. 283. L. van Kuyck, Stable; 44. L. Dansaert, The diplomats; above, 144. E. Huberti, Landscape; 95. A. de Vriendt, The citizens of Ghent doing homage at the cradle of Charles V. ; 6. A. Asselbergs, Landscape; above, G. J. van Luppen, Spring-land- scape; 261. -F'. ter Linden, Prisoners; 268. Th. T'scharner, Winter scene on theMeuse; 137. A. Hennebicq, Labourers in the Roman Campagna; 319. i^i. Wi7iems, The duchess's birthday ; M. M. Col- lart, Fruit-garden in Flanders; 94. A. de Vriendt, Excommunica- tion of Bouchard d'Avesnes (on account of his interdicted marriage with Margaret of Flanders, 1215); 37. J. Th. Coosemans , The Chemin des Artistes at Barbison ; above, 151. F. Keelhoff, Landscape ; 254. J. Stevens, Dog-market at Paris; 9. E. Beernaert, Edge of a wood in Zealand; 19. H. Bource, Bad news; above, 61. Xav. de Cock, Cattle in a wood; 55. H. de Braekeleer, Spinner; 31. P. J. Clays, Calm on the Scheldt; above, 309. A. Verwee, Cattle at pasture. Room XII. 54. H. de Braekeleer, The geographer; 105. Th. Four- mois, Mill; 255. J. Stevens, Dog before a mirror; 168. H. Leys, Funeral mass for Berthal de Haze, armourer of Antwerp ; 112. L. Gallait, Conquest of Antioch; J. Rohie, 230. Return from the tiger hunt, 228. Still-life; 247. A. Stevens, Lady in a light pink dress; 30. P. J. Clays, Roads of Antwerp; A. Stevens, 248. Portrait ('lady- bird'), 249. The widow and her children; 17. H. Boulenger, View of Dinant; 321. Fl. Willems, The collector of engravings. Room XIII. 72. J. H. L. de Haas, Cattle at pasture; 33. A. Cluysenaar, The infant painter; 183. A. Markelbach, Rhetoricians of Antwerp preparing for a debate (comp. p. 91); 191. J. L. Mon- tigny. Horses in winter; *317. E. Wauters, The Prior of the August- ine monastery to which Hugo van der Goes had retired tries to cure the painter's madness by means of music; 276. H. van der Hecht, Landscape; 26. E. Carpentier^ Strangers; 320. Fl. Willems, La Fete chez les Grands-Parents; 22. A. Bouvier, Sea-piece; 236. J. Ros- seels, Heath; 250. A.Stevens, Salome; 311. A. Fgm-ee, L"Equinoxe; 141. Ch. Hermans, Day-break in the capital; 41. F. Courtens, Re- turn from church; 228. J. Robie, Grapes; 71. J. H. L. de Haas, Cattle beside the Scheldt. Baedeker-s Belgium and Holland. 12th Edit. 7 98 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Notre Dame des Victoires. Room XIV, 307. Th. Fersfraefc, Return from the grave; above^ 128. Th. Gerard, Yillage-festival in Swabia; 143. A. Hubert, Cui- rassiers of Waterloo ; 299. Is. Verheyden., Woman gathering wood ; 109. L. Frederic, 'Les Marchands de Craie' (starting for work, mid- day meal, return in the evening); 281. E. van Hove, Van Maerlant, the poet (d. 1291); 177. T. Lybaert, The Virgin praying (in the medieval style) ; *298. J. Verhas, Review of the Schools (on the occa- sion of the silver wedding of the King and Queen of the Belgians in 1878). The procession, headed by girls in white dresses led by their teachers, is passing the Palace, in front of which are the King and Queen, the Emperor of Austria, and the Count of Flanders, with their suites. The burgomaster and sheriffs of Brussels are also in the procession. All the heads are portraits. — 42. Ft. Crabeels, Hay harvest; F. van Leemputten, 284. Peasants going to work, 285. Palm Sunday in the Campines ; 36. J. Th. Coosemans, Fir-wood by twi- light; 207. P. Oyens, The colleagues; 103. J. Ensor, Lamp-cleaner ; 292. H. van Seben, Landscape near the Hague. — Past Room XV (empty), we finally enter — Room XVI. 23. L. Chabry, Ruins of Thebes (Egypt); 187. H. W. Mesdag, After the storm (large sea-piece, 1895); 173. L. Lher- mitte, Country-girls bathing; F. von Lenbach, 165. Bishop Stross- mayer of Diakovar, 166. Portrait of Dollinger. c. The Upper Town : Southern Part. The Rue de la Regence (Pi. D, E, 4, 5), which begins at the Place Royale, leads, as mentioned at p. 79, past the Comte de Flandre's Palace and the Palais des Beaux-Arts, and farther on intersects the Petit Sablox, or Kleine Zaavelplaats (PI. D, 5). To the right rises the church of — Notre Dame des Victoires (PI. D, 5), also called Notre Dame du Sablon, founded in 1304 by the guild of Cross-bowmen, but almost entirely rebuilt in the 15th and 16th centuries. It is now being restored after designs by Schoy. The IsTERioE (sacristan, Place du Grand-Sablon 30) measures 71 yds. in length by 28 yds. in breadth (61 yds. across the transepts) and is in the form of a Latin cross. — The 1st Chapel in the S. Aisle contains the monument of Coimi Flaminio Gamier, secretary of the Duke of Parma, consisting of six reliefs in alabaster from the life of the Virgin (about 1570 ; restored). At the W. end of this aisle is a monument erected in 1856 to Auff. dal Pozzo, Marquis de Voghera (d. 1781), commander of the Austrian forces in the Netherlands. — The burial-chapel (ITth cent.) of the Princes of Thurn and Taxis, in the N. Transept, is sumptuously adorned with black and white marble; over the altar, a St. Ursula, by Hen. Duquesnoy ; on the right is an angel holding a torch, by Oritpello; in the dome are numerous family armorial bearings. — The Choir con- tains mural paintings of saints by Van der Plaetsen, being an exact reproduction of the originals of the 15th cent, discovered here in 1860 in a state beyond restoration; also some stained glass of the 15th century PaL Arenberg. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 99 at the sides, two gorgeous Eenaissance chapels. — The pulpit, carved in wood, is borne by the symbols of the four Evangelists. — The sacristy contains an ivory statuette of Christ, by If. Duquesnoy. The Rue Bodenbroek and Rue des Sablons, running to the W., end at the Grand Sablon (p. 106). On the part of the Petit Sablon to the S.E. , a small square surrounded by a handsome railing, rises the Monument of Counts Egmont and Hoorn (Pl.D, 5), by Fraikin. The lower part is a foun- tain, above which rises a square pedestal in the later Gothic style. On the right and left are bronze figures of Flemish soldiers. The colossal figures in bronze above represent Egmont and Hoorn on their way to execution. Ten Marble Statues of celebrated contem- poraries of the counts were erected in 1890 in a half-circle round the monument. These represent (from left to right): Marnix of Ste. Aldegonde (p. 251) by P. Devigne, Abr. Ortelius by J. Lambeaux^ Bern, van Orley by DiLlens, J. deLocquenghien by G. van denKerck- hove, Ger. Mercator by L. P. van Biesbroeck, Dodonseus (p. 133) by A. cle Tombay^ Corn. Floris de Yriendt by J. Pecker^ H. van Brede- rode by J. A. van EasbourgTi., L. van Bodeghem by J. Cuypers, and William of Orange by C. van der Stappen. The 48 small bronze figures on the pillars of the railing represent the Artistic and In- dustrial Guilds of the 16th century; they were cast in 1882-83 from designs by X Mellery and models by J. Cuypers, P. Comein. J. Courroit, A. Desenfans, A., J., -F., and G. van den Kerckhove, Ch. Geefs, J. A. Hambresin, J. Laumans, B. Martens, E. Lefever, A. J. van Rasbourgh^ J. Lambeaux, and others. — Behind the mon- ument is the — Palace of the Due d' Arenberg (PL D, 5), once the residence of Count Egmont, erected in 1548, restored in 1753, with a modern right wing. The older portion of the palace was seriously damaged by fire in 1892. It contains a small but choice *Picture-gallery (ad- mission, see p. 76). The Pictures are all in excellent preservation, and furnished with the names of the artists (catalogue by W. Burger). — Long Room, to the left of the entrance : Rembrandt, or more probably Sal. Koninck, Tohi&s restoring his father's sight; VanDyclc, Portrait of a Spanish countess; Craesbeeck, His own studio; A. van Ostade, A. Brouwer, Tavern-scenes ; Jac. van Ruysdael, Waterfall ; Eobbema, Landscape ; F. Potter, Resting in a barn ; Rubens, Two portraits and three sketches of angels' heads; Berck-Heyde, Canal; P. de ^ooc/i, Interior; G. Dou, The painter's parents ; G. Metsu, The billet-doux; Jan Vermeer (van Delft), Girl ; Jan iSteen, Wedding at Cana ; Rubens, Small portrait; A. van der Neer, Moonlight on the sea (1614); G. Dou, Old woman counting money; G. Terhurg, Musical entertainment; Jordaens, 'Zoo de ouden zongen, zoo piepen de jongen' (when the old quarrel, the young squeak); Teniers, Playing at bowls; G. Dou, Hermit; iV". Maes, The scholar; W. van Mieris, Fishwoman. — Above the door: Berck-Heyde, Inner court of the Amsterdam Exchange. — To the right of the door: /. Ruysdael, Landscapes; A. Cuyp , Horses; D. Teniers , Farm-yard, Pea sant smoking; Van der Heist, Dutch wedded couple. Portrait of a man A. van Dyck, Portrait of a Due d' Arenberg; Teniers, Man selling shells Fr. Hals, The drinker; Everdingen, W&teTfall; Terburg, Portrait; Fr. Hals Two bovs singing ; Rubens, Two portraits and a sketch. — On the window 7* 100 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Palais de Justice. wall: Portrait of Marie Antoinette, painted in the Temple by Koharsky, shortly before the unfortunate queen was removed to the Conciergerie. The Library contains antique vases, statuettes, and busts in marble. The well-kept Gardess deserve a visit (fee 1 fr.). In t"he Rue des Petits-Carmes, diverging to the left, an inscrip- tion on No. 26 (to the right) announces that the building occupies the site of Count Kuilemburg's palace, pulled down in 1568. In this palace between three and four hundred of the Netherlands nobles met and drank success to the 'Gueux" on April 6th, 1566, the day after the presentation of their 'Request' to the vice-regent Margaret of Parma, praying for the abolition of the inquisitorial courts. The Duke of Alva afterwards occupied the palace. The present building was erected in 1847 as a prison. The palace occupied by the Duchess Margaret of Parma was in the Place Royale. At the moment when the petition was presented, Count Barlaimont. one of the courtiers, whispered to the princess, whose apprehen- sions had been awakened by the sudden appearance of the cortege, '■Madame, ce n'est quune troupe de gueux'' (i.e., beggars), in allusion to their supposed want of money. The epithet was overheard, and rapidly communicated to the whole party, who afterwards chose it for the n;.me of their faction. Farther on in the Rue de la Re'gence, to the left, stands the Conservatoire de Musique (PI. D, 5), built in 1876 by Cluysen- aar. In the concert-hall is an organ by Cavaille-Col. The Conser- vatoire possesses an interesting collection of musical instruments from the 16th cent, onwards, now exhibited in the wing at the back of the building, Rue aux Laines 11 (adm. on Mon. and Thur?., 2-4; at other times on written application to the curator, M. Mahillon, Chaussee d'Anvers 23). — Adjacent is the Synagogue (PI. D, 5), a building in the Romanesque style by De Keyser (1878). The Rue de la Regence, and the still unfinished Place Poelaert in which it ends, are terminated on the S. by the — *Palais de Justice (PL C, D, 5), an edifice designed on a most ambitious scale by Poelaert, begun in 1866 under the superintend- ence of Wellens, and inaugurated in 1883, at the 50th jubilee of Belgium's existence as a separate kingdom. The cost of the build- ing amounted to about 50 million francs (2,000, OOOL). It is the largest architectural work of the present century, and is certainly one of the most remarkable, if not one of the most beautiful of modern buildings. The inequalities of the site added greatly to the magnitude of the task. The area of the building is 270,000 sq. ft., considerably exceeding that of St. Peter's at Rome (see p. 144). The huge and massive pile stands upon an almost square basis, 590 ft. long by 560 ft. wide, and forcibly suggests the mighty structures of ancient Egypt or Assyria. Indeed the architect avowed that his guiding principle was an adaptation of Assyrian forms to suit the lequirements of the present day. In details the Grseco-Roman style has been for the most part adhered to, with an admixture of rococo treatment. The general architectural scheme may be described as pyramidal, each successive section diminishing in bulk. Above the Grande Place. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 101 main body of the building rises another rectangular structure sur- rounded with columns; this supports a drum or rotunda, also en- circled with columns, while the crown of the whole is formed by a comparatively small dome, the gilded cross on the top of which is 400 ft. above the pavement. The rotunda is embellished, with colossal figures of Justice, Law, Strength, and Clemency, by Du- trieux, Desenfans, ViriQoUe, and Detombay. The principal facade, with projecting wings and a large portal, is turned towards the Rue de la Regence, The porch, which is enclosed by huge pilasters, has a rectilineal termination. The flights of steps ascending to the ves- tibule are adorned with colossal statues of Demosthenes and Ly- curgus by A. Cattier (1882 ; to the right) and of Cicero and Domitius Ulpian by i4. F. Bowre (1883; to the left). The interior includes 27 large court-rooms, 245 other apartments, and 8 open courts. The large Salle des Pas Perdiis, or waiting-room, with its galleries and flights of steps, is situated in the centre, under the dome, which has an interior height of 320 ft. Guides in uniform are in waiting to conduct visitors through the interior (daily, 9-4.30; fee 1 fr.], and the dome may also be ascended. The terrace on the side to- wards the town commands a very beautiful view of the lower part of Brussels. The inclined planes on the N.W. side of the Palais de Justice lead to the S. part of the old town, whence we may proceed to the Porte de Hal (p. 109). — The broad Rue des Ouatre Bras, running to the S.E. from the Place Poelaert, joius the Boulevard de Waterloo opposite the Avenue Louise (p. 109 ; electric tramway, see p. 74). d. The Lower Town : Central Part. From the Place Royale (p. 78) the Moktagne de la Couk (PI. D, 4; Flem. Berg vanH Hof) descends to the lower town. This street contains numerous handsome shops, and, in spite of its steep- ness, is one of the chief thoroughfares of Brussels, with a constant stream of vehicles passing through it. It is continued to the N.W. by the Rue de la Madeleine [Magdalenastraat; PI. D, 3, 4), a street of almost equal importance, with a few Renaissance facades of the 17th cent., and by the Marche aux Herbes {Grasmarkt ; PI. D, 3), which passes near the market-place, assumes the name of Marche aux Poulets beside the church of St. Nicholas, and crosses the Bou- 1 ^vard Anspach (p. 107) near the Exchange. In the centre of the lower part of the town lies the **Grande Place, or market-place (PI. D, 3). It is one of the finest mediaeval squares in existence, presenting a marked contrast to the otherwise modern character of the city, and occupies an important place in the annals of Belgium. In the spring of 1568 twenty-five nobles were beheaded here by order of the Duke of Alva, and in tlie following June Lamoral, Count Egmont, and Philip de Montmorency, Count Hoorn, also perished here (p. 99). 102 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Hotel de Ville. The *H6tel de Ville (Stadhuis ,- PI. D, 3) is by far the most interesting edifice in Brussels, and one of the noblest and most beau- tiful buildings of the kind in Belgium. It is of irregular quadran- gular form, 66 yds. in length and 55 yds. in depth, and encloses a court. The principal facade towards the market-place is in the Gothic style, the E. half having been begun in 1402, the W. in 1443. The graceful tower, 370 ft. in height, which was originally intended to form the N.W. angle of the building, was completed in 1454. The architects were Jacob van Thienen (1405) and Jan van Ruys- hroeck (1448), a statue of whom adorns the first niche in the tower. Probably some of the niches in the facade were intended to be purely decorative; at all events the facade seems somewhat over- laden by the multitude of modern statues of Dukes of Brabant and other celebrities with which it has been adorned, though smoke and the weather have contributed to soften this effect. The open spire (now being restored) terminates in a gilded metal figure of the Arch- angel Michael, which serves as a vane, 16 ft. in height, executed by Martin van Rode in 1454. The back of the Hotel de Tille dates from the beginning of the 18th cent., the original edifice having been destroyed by the bombardment of the French in 1695. In the court are two fountains of the 18th cent. , each adorned with a river-god, that on the right by Plumiers. Tickets (p. 75) admitting visitors to view tlie Interior of the Hotel de Ville are issned in the corridor of the IN^. wing, which may be reached by the passage at the back of the court or by ascending the steps to the right in the court. Visitors also receive a printed description of the building. The corridor contains several large pictures (Stallaert, Death of Eberhard T'serclaes, 1883, a magistrate of Brussels). — Fiest Flooe. In the Vestibule are several full-length portraits of former sovereigns, among whom are Maria Theresa, Francis II., Joseph II., Charles VI., Charles II. of Spain, etc. In the spacious Salle du Conseil Commcxal Counts Egmont and Hoorn were condemned to death in 1568. The present decoration of the hall, with its rich gilding, recalling the palace of the Doges at Venice, dates from the end of tile 17th century. The ceiling- painting, representing the gods in Olympus, is by Victor Janssens. The same artist designed the tapestry on the walls, of which the subjects are the Abdication of Charles V., the Coronation of Emp. Charles VI. at Aix- la-Chapelle, and the 'joyeuse entre'e' of Philippe le Bon of Burgundy, i.e.. the conclusion of the contract of government between the sovereign, the clergy, the nobility, and the people. — In the adjoining Salle de Max- iMiLiES is a round portrait of Maximilian and his wife Maria of Burgundy, by Cluysenaar (over the chimney-piece). Also a Winged Altar-piece., by a Belgian artist of the 15th cent.,' with gilded carving and paintinss from the life of the Virgin frecently acquired in Italy). This room, the adjoining Anteroom, and the Eeceptiox Room are hung with tapestry from designs by Lebrun and Van der Borght, representing the history *of Clovis and Clotilde. The last-named room also contains a modern table-service by Ji. Van der Stappen , and a painting of the ISth cent, (over the chimney piece). — The following gallery is hung with life-size portraits of the Emperor Charles V., Philip III. of Spain, Philip IV., Archduke Albert and his consort Isabella, Charles II. of Spain, and Philip II. in the robe of the Golden Fleece. — The Salle d'Attexie contains views of old Brus- sels , before the construction of the present new and spacious streets (pp. 105, 107), by J. B. van Moer, 1S73. — The large Banqiet Hall. 65 yds. long and 27 yds. wide, recently decorated with beautiful Gothic carved Guild Houses. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 103 oak, from designs by Jamaei\ also deserves notice. The tapestry, represent- ing the guilds in characteristic figures, was executed at Malines from designs by W. Geefs. On wooden pillars between the tapestries ore bronze statues of prominent burgomasters and magistrates of Brussels in the 14th and 15th centuries. — The Salle des Makiages is lined with oaken panelling and adorned with allegorical frescoes and wooden statues of famous citizens of Brussels, by Geerts, — The Staircase is adorned with two pictures by Em. WatUers: John III., Duke of Brabant, resigning to the guilds of Brussels the right of electing the burgomaster (1421), and Mary of Burgundy swearing to respect the privileges of the city of Brussels (1477). — We return through the Banquet Hall to the landing of the Grand Stair- case, on which are busts of the burgomasters since 1830. The ceiling and wall paintings by Count J. de Lalaing (1893) illustrate the civic com- munity: 'Pro aria et focis' (successful opposition to the feudal barons) and Trbi et orbi' (proclamation of the laws). On the ceiling are an allegorical representation founded upon an inscription from the old Broot- huis : 'A peste, fame et bello libera nos Maria pacis' (from plague, famine, and war, deliver us, Mary of peace), and portraits of prominent burgo- masters of the city as representatives of civic virtue-, etc. — At the foot of the staircase is a bronze figure of St. Michael, by Van der Stappen. — Tickets are given up on leaving the building (no fee). The Tower (key kept by the concierge; 50 c. each pers.) commands an admirable survey of the city and environs. To the S. the Lion Mon- ument on the Field of Waterloo is distinctly visible in clear weather. The best hour for the ascent is about 4 p.m. On the N.E. side of the market-place, on the site of an earlier building occupied in 1131 by Pope Innocent 11. and King Bernard, is the *H[alle auPain (^Broothuis; PL D, 3), also known as the Mai- son du Roi, formerly the seat of the government authorities. The building was erected in 1514-25, in the transition style from th* Gothic to the Renaissance, rebuilt according to the original plan and fitted up for the municipal authorities in 1876-95. Counts Egmoiit and Hoorn passed the night previous to their execution here, and are said to have been conveyed directly from the balcony to the fatal block by means of a scaffolding, in order to prevent the possibility of a rescue by the populace. The peal of bells placed here in 1896 consists of 24 bells, one of which weighs 1200 lbs. The Musee Communal (Gemeentelyk Sfuzeum), established in 1887 on the second floor of the Halle au Pain (adm., see p. 75; entrance Rue du Puivre, at the back of the building), contains models and views of ancient and modern buildings of Brussels, sculptures, banners, memoi'ials of the revolution of 1830, the clothes of the Maunikin (p. 104) , Brussels china and faience, artistic objects in metal (among them an embossed silver-gilt plaque showing Adam and Eve in Paradise), rare prints, the celebrated Kecord of Cortenberg (1372), coins and medals, and some paintings of the Flemish, German, and Italian schools, including examples of Mierevelt, JSnyders, A. Mor, Holbein (?), Cuj/p, GoUzius, and Bol. The *Gmld Houses in the Grande Place were re-erected at the beginning of the 18th century, after having been seriously damaged during the bombardment by Louis XIV. in 1695, and they have re- cently been carefully restored. On the S. side, to the left of the Hotel de Ville, are the old hall of the Guild of Butchers, indicated by a swan, and the Hotel des Brasseurs, bearing on its gable an equestrian statue of Duke Charles of Lorraine (p. 77), designed in 1854 by Jacquet. On the W. side is the Maison de la Louve, or 104 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Vniversity. Hall of the Archers, which derives its name from a group represent- ing Romulus and Remus with the she-wolf. To the left of the Louve is the Hall of the Skippers, the gable of which resembles the stern of a large vessel, with four protruding cannon; farther to the left, the Hall of the Mercers (de Vos), dating from 1699. To the right of the Louve is the Hall of the Carpenters (1697). richly adorned with gilding, and farther to the right is the Hall of the Printers. On the N, side is the Taupe, or Hall of the Tailors, built in 1697. The extensive building occupying almost the entire S.E. side of the square was formerly the public Weigh House. Adjacent is the Balance, built in 1701. At the back of the Hotel de Ville, about 2CK)yds. to the S.W., at the corner of the Rue du Chene and the Rue de lEtuve, stands a diminutive figure, one of the curiosities of Brussels, known as the Mannikin Fountain (PI. M. P. ; C, 4), cast in bronze after Duquesnoy' s model in 1619. He is a great favourite with the lower classes, and is invariably attired in gala- costume on all great occasions. When Louis XV. took the city in 1747, the mannikin wore the white cockade, in 1789 he was decked in the colours of the Brabant Revolution , under the French re'gime he adopted the tri- colour, next the Orange colours, and in 1830 the blouse of the Revolu- tionists. Louis XV., indeed, is said to have invested him with the cross of St. Louis. The figure is not without considerable artistic excellence. In the Rue du Marche aux Herbes, near the N.E. corner of the Grande Place, is the entrance to the Passage or Galerie St. Hubert (PI. D, 3), constructed from a plan by Cluysenaar in 1847, a spacious and attractive arcade with tempting shops (234 yds. in length, 26 yds. in width, and 59 ft. in height). It connects the Marche aux Herbes with the Rue des Bouchers (Galerie de la Eeine), and farther on with the Rue de I'Ecuyer [Galerie du Eoi, with the Galerie des Princes diverging on one side). The sculp- tural decorations are by Jaquet. The arcade is crowded at all hours of the day. Cafes, shops, and theatre, see pp. 71, 72, 74. About 150 yds. higher, in the Rue de la Madeleine, and also in the Rue Duquesnoy and Rue St. Jean, are entrances to the Marche Couvert (PI. D, 4), or Marche de la Madeleine, an extensive market- place for fruit, vegetables, and poultry, erected by Cluysenaar in 1848. Owing to the different levels of the above-named streets the market has two stories. — The adjacent Galerie Bortier contains r.umerous shops of dealers in antiquities. Between the Rue de la Madeleine and the Montague de laCour, the Rue Cantersteen (see below) diverges to the N.E., the Rue de VEmpereur to the S.W. The last leads to the small Place du Pa- LAis DB Justice (PI. D, 4; below the old Palais de Justice, pulled down in 1892), with the marble statue of xMexandre Gendebien (d. 1869^, a member of the provisional government of 1830, by Van der Stappen (1874). The Rue Cantersteen (called farther on the Rue de Tlmperatrice) leads to the University (PI. D, 4), established in the old palace of Cardinal Granvella. It was founded bv the leaders of the liberal Martyrs' Monument. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 10^ party in 1834, as a rival of the Roman Catholic University of Lou- vain (p. 206), and comprises faculties of philosopKy, the exact sciences, jurisprudence, and medicine. The Ecole Polytechnique, founded in 1873. embraces six departments : mining, metallurgy, practical chemistry, civil and mechanical engineering, and arch- itecture. The number of students is upwards of 1600. The court is adorned with a Statue of Verhaegen (d. 1862). one of the founders, who, as the inscription records, presented a donation of 100,000 fr. to the funds, by Geefs. The S. wing of the university abuts on the Rue des Sols, the entire S. side of which is now being rebuilt. In the Rue Terarken (PI. E, 4), which continues the Rue des Sols to the E., the Gothi'i Ravenstein Mansion, erected about the middle of the 15th cent, for Count Adolph of Cleves, should be noticed as one of the few remain- ing antique private buildings in Brussels (pp. 77, 79). The interior (restored in 1893) is now occupied by various societies. The en- trance is near the top of the Rue Ravenstein, a street with steps, ascending to the Montagne de la Cour. The busy streets to the N. of the market and the Passage St. Hubert lead to the Place de la Monnaie (PI. D, 3), in which rises the royal TheS-tre de la Monnaie, with a colonnade of eight Ionic columns, erected by the Parisian architect Damesme in 1817. The bas-relief in the tympanum, executed by Simonis in 1854, represents the Harmony of Human Passions. The interior, which was remodelled after a fire in 1855 , is decorated in the Louis XIV. style and can contain 2000 spectators. — Opposite the theatre is the Post and Telegraph Office (PI. D,2, 3), a noble Renaissance building, erected in 1885-92 from designs by De Curte. The various rooms for the public Postal business are in the centre of the groundfloor ; the Telegraph and Telephone Offices are in the right wing. — Cajfes, see p. 71. From the Place de la Monnaie the busy Rue Neuve (PI. D, 2), one of the chief arteries of Brussels, leads towards the N. in a straight direction to the Station du Nord. In this street, to the right, is the Galerie du Commerce (PI. D, 2"~), a glass arcade, similar to the Galerie St. Hubert (p. 104) ; to the left is the Galerie du Nord, leading to the Boul. du ISord (p. 107) and containing rooms for con- certs and dramatic representations. Turning to the left at the end of the Galerie du Commerce, or following the Rue Neuve and then the Rue St. Michel to the right, we reach the Place des Martyrs, laid out in 1775 under Maria The- resa and formerly called Place St. Michel, in the centre of which rises the Martyrs' Monument (PL D, 2), by W. Geefs, erected in 1838 to the memory of the Belgians who fell in 1830, while fighting against the Dutch (see p. 79). It includes a statue of liberated Belgium, several reliefs in marble, and tablets recording the names of the 'martyrs', 445 in number. 106 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Notre Dame de la Chapelle. From the Place du Palais de Justice (p. 104) the Ptue d'Or and Rue Steenpoort lead to the S.W. to the Gothic church of — Notre Dame de la Chapelle (PI. C, D, 4), begun in 1216 on the site of an earlier chapel. The choir and transept date from the middle of the 13th cent., and the nave andW. tower were completed inl483. The Interior (concierge, Rue des Ursulines 2i) is worthy of a visit on account of the numerous frescoes (Chapelle de la Sainte Croix, to the right of the choir) and oil-paintings (14 Stations of the Cross) by Van Eycken (d. 1853). The first three pillars of the chapels in the S. Aisle bear the remains of frescoes of the 15th cent, (saints), — The stained- glass in the 1st and 2nd chapels, with scenes from the life of the Virgin, is by /. van der Poorten (1860- The 3rd chapel contains the tomb of the painter Jan Bvueghel ('Velvet BruegheF). In the 4th Chapel. De Crayei\ Christ appearing to 31ary Magdalen. — In the N. chapel of the choir : Land- scapes by/, d" Arthois {^. 1665) and Achtschellinck (d. 1731). Near the altar: De Ci'ayei\ S. Carlo Borromeo administering the Holy Communion to the plague-stricken ; Van Thv.lden^ Intercession for souls in Purgatory. Mon- ument of the Spinola family by Plumiers (d. 1721). On a pillar a monument, with bust, to Duke Ch. Alex, de Croy (d. 1624). A tablet of black marble at the back of the pillar, put up by Counts 3Ierode and Beaufort in 1834, bears a long Latin inscription to the memory of Frans Anneessens, a citizen of Brussels, and a magistrate of the Quarter of St. Nicholas, who was executed in the Grand Marche in 1719 for presuming to defend the pri- vileges of the city and guilds against the encroachments of the Austrian governor. — The Choir "has recently been decorated with fine polychrome paintings by Chavle- Albert. The somewhat incongruous high-altar was executed from designs by Rubens. — The carving on the pulpit, by Plumiers. represents Elijah in the wilderness, and is simpler and in better taste than that of the pulpit in the cathedral. — The Sacristy contains the rich treas- ure of the church. The Rue Haute, or Hoogstkaat, which runs to the S. hence to the Porte de Hal (p. 109), passes through a busy Flemish quarter. — The Rue Joseph Stevens, a new street to the E. of the church, ends at the Place du Graxd Sab-los (^Groote Zaavelplaats ; PI, D, 4), in the centre of which is an insignificant fountain-monument erected by the Marquis of Aylesbury in 1751, in recognition of the hospitality accorded to him at Brussels. Hence to the Petit Sablon, see p. 98. e. The Lower Town : Inner Boulevards. An entirely modern feature in the lower part of the city is formed by the *Inner Boulevards (PI. B, C, D, 2-5 ; tramways, see pp. 73, 74), which lie to the W, of the Rue Neuve and the Place de la Monnaie, and extend from the Boulevard du Midi (near the Sta- tion du Midi) to the Boulevard d'Anvers (near the Station du Nord), partly built over the Senne, and intersecting the whole town. The construction of the street, and the covering in of the bed of the Senne for a distance of I1/3 M., were carried out by an English company In 1867-71. The names of the boulevards are Boulevard du Nord, Boulevard de la Senne, Boulevard Anspach, SindL Boulevard du Hainaut. The variety of the handsome buildings with which they are flanked is in great measure owing to an offer by the municipal authorities of premiums for the twenty finest facades. New Exchange. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 107 The Boulevard du Nord (PL D, 2) and tlie Boulevard de la Serine (PL D, 2) meet at tlie large Place de Brouckerb (PL D, 2), where a large fountain has heen erected in memory of the burgomaster Anspach (d. 1879), one of the chief promoters of the boulevards. The tall and narrow house, to the left, Boulevard du Nord 1, by the Galerie du Nord (p. 105), built by Beyaert in 1874, received the first prize in the above-named competition. A few paces farther on is the large Hotel and Cafe Me'tropole (p. 70). — No. 17 in the Rue des Augustins (PL D, 2), to the W.. is the Musee Commerciel, in- stituted in 1880 for the encouragement of Belgian commerce, con- taining a library with reading-room, collections of foreign manu- factures, and an office for information (open on week-days 9.30-4). The S. continuation of the two boulevards mentioned above is formed by the Boulevard Axspach (PL C, 3), with tempting shops and several large cafes and 'tavernes', one of the centres of public life in Brussels and generally crowded in the evening. In the centre of the Boulevard Anspach, between it and the Rue du Midi, rises the *New Exchange (Bourse; PL C, 3), an impos- ing edifice in the Louis XIV. style, built in 1874 from designs by Suys. Its vast proportions and almost excessive richness of orna- mentation combine to make the building worthy of being the com- mercial centre of an important metropolis ; but it has been sadly disfigured by the application of a coat of paint, necessitated by the friable nature of the stone. The principal facade is embellished with a Corinthian colonnade , to which a flight of twenty steps ascends. On each side is an allegorical group by J. Jaqiiet. The reliefs in the tympanum, also by Jaquet, represent Belgium with Commerce and Industry. The two stories of the building are connected by means of Corinthian pilasters and columns. Around the building , above the cornice , runs an attic story, embellished with dwarfed Ionic columns, and forming a curve on each side be- tween two pairs of clustered columns. The effect is materially en- hanced by means of numerous sculptures. The principal hall, un- like that of most buildings of the kind, is cruciform (47 yds. by 40 yds.), and covered with a low dome (about 150 ft. high) in the centre, borne by twenty-eight columns. At the four corners of the building are four smaller saloons. Two marble staircases ascend to the gallery, which affords a survey of the principal hall, and to the other apartments on the upper floor. The cost of the whole structure amounted to 4 million francs. Nearly opposite the Exchange, in the BouL Anspach, is the Hotel des Ventes, built in 1881. — A little to the W., in the Place St. Ge'ry (PL C, 3), is a Market, in the Flemish style. It contains a Renaissance fountain from the Abbey of Grimberge. In the Boulevard du Hainaut, to the right, is the Place An- neessens (PL C, 4), with the monument of the civic hero Frans Anneessens (p. 106), by Yin^otte, erected in 1889. Behind is a lOS Route 12. BRUSSELS. Boulevards. School in the Flemisli style, by Janlet. — The side-street diverg- ing here to the S.E. leads to the Place Rouppe (PL C, 4), in which a monumental fountain, by Fraikin, commemorates the burgomaster Rouppe (d. 1838). The Boulevard du Hainaut ends on the S. at the Boulevard du Midi (p. 1103. On the W. side of the Boulevard Anspaoh are the Halles Cen- trales (PI. C, 3), a covered provision-market resembling its name- sake at Paris , but on a much smaller scale. In approaching from the boulevard through the Rue Gretry, we have the meat, vegetable, and fruit market on the left, and the poultry-market on the right. Beyond the Halles rises the Church of St. Catharine (PI. 15; 0,2), designed by Poelaert (p. 100), in a mixture of the Romanesque, Byzantine, and Italian styles. It contains paintings by De Grayer and Yaenius, an Assumption ascribed to Rubens, and other works from the old church which stood on the same spot and of which the tower to the S. of the present facade is a relic. — The Tour Noire (PI. T. N. ; C, 2), to the E. of the choir, is a fragment of the old town fortifications; it was restored in 1895 (adm. 10-4; 25 c). — To the N. of the church is the Fish Market. The baskets of fish arriv- ing fresh from the sea are sold here by auction to retail-dealers (comp. p. 6). The auctioneer uses a curious mixture of French and Flemish, the tens being named in French and all intermediate numbers in Flemish. In the new Grain Market (PI. C, 2) is a marble statue of the naturalist J. B. van Helmont (1577-1644), by G. van der Linden. The Eglise du Beguinage (PI. C, 2), in the vicinity, contains a colossal statue of John the Baptist by Puyenbroek, an Entombment by Otho Yaenius, and paintings by De Grayer and Van Loon. The Flemish Theatre (PI. D, 1), with an iron escape-gallery all round it, was built by J. Baes. f. The Outer Boulevards. The old Boulevards, or ramparts, were levelled about the beginning of the century and converted into pleasant avenues, which have a total length of 41/2 miles. The boulevards of the upper town (to the N. and E.), together with the Avenue Louise connecting them with the Bois de la Gambre(p. 116), are thronged with carriages, riders, and walkers on fine summer-evenings. The portion between the Place Quetelet (PI. F, 2) and the Place du Trone (PL E, 5). adjoining the palace-garden, is also much fre- quented from 2.30 to 4 p.m. (chairs 10 c). A walk round the inner town by these Boulevards occupies li/2~2hrs., which, however, may be shortened by means of the electric and other tramways. To the right of the Boulevard du Jardin Botanique (PI. D, E, 1, 2), which ascends towards the S.E. from the Station du Nord to the upper town, is the Rue des Cendres. where (at No. 7, now a Botanic Garden. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 109 convent) the well-known ball given by the Duchess of Richmond on the eve of the Battle of Waterloo took place. Farther on, to the right, rises the Hospital of St. John {Hopital St. Jean; PI. E, 2), an imposing structure erected by Partoes in 1838-43 and admirably fitted up (admission 9-5 o'clock, 1 fr. ; attendant 1/2"^ f^"-^- On the opposite slopes are the grounds of the Botanic Garden (PL E, 2; adm., see p. 75), with large hot-house?. It is entered from the boulevard as well as from the Rub Rotale (p. 80), which inter- sects the boulevard and, skirting the hill at the E. side of the garden, commands a fine view of the N. boulevards, extending to the distant hills which enclose the valley of the Sonne. — To the E. of the Botanic Garden is the Jesuit Church (Pl.F, 2), built by Parot in the early-Gothic style. At the N. end of the Rue Royale rises the church of Stb. Maeib DE ScHABBBEBK (PL F, 1), an octagoual edifice with a dome, built by Hansotte from plans by Van Overstraeten. In the Place Colignon, to the N., is the Maison Communale of Schaerbeek, in the Flemish style, from designs by Van Ysendyck. Beyond the Rue Royale, the Boulevard du Jardin Botanique is continued by the Boulevard Bischoffsheim (PL F, 2, 3). ad- joined on the left by the Place Quetelet (p. 108). On the right, farther on, lies the circular Place des Baiiricades(P1.F, 2), adorned with a statue of the anatomist Vesalius, by Jos. Geefs (1847). Vefalius, the court-physician of Charles V. and the founder of modern anatomy , was born at Brussels in 1514, His parents were natives of Wesel, of which the name Vesalius is a Latinised form. He was con- demned to the stake as a sorcerer by the Inquisition, but this penalty was commuted into a pilgrimage to Jerusalem. On his way back he was wrecked on the coast of Zante, where he died in 1564. Farther on , beyond the Place Madou , begins the bustling Bou- LBTARD DU Regext (PL E, F, 3-5), wMch is soon intersected by the Rue de la Loi (p. 81) and leads on between the fashionable quart- ers near the Park on the right and the Quartier Le'opold (p. 110) €n the left. It ends at the former Porte de Namur, on the site of which now rises the monumental Fontaine De Brouckere (PL E, 5), with a bust of M. De Brouckere, an able burgomaster of Brussels (d. 1866), by Fiers, and a group of children by D' Union. — In the Boulevard de Waterloo (PL E-C, 5, 6), to the left, rises the Eglise des Carmes (PL D, 6), beyond which the Avenue Louise or Avenue du Bois de la Cambre (p. 116) diverges to the left. Then, to the right, the imposing Palais de Justice (p. 100) rises in its full grand- eur. A few paces farther, to the left of the boulevard, the Rue de I'Hotel des Monnaies leads to the Mint, completed in 1879. The Porte de Hal (PL C, 6), in the middle of the boulevards at the S. extremity of the inner town, is the sole remnant of the old fortifications. It was erected in 1381, and two centuries later be- came the Bastille of Alva during the Belgian 'reign of terror'. It is a huge square structure with three vaulted chambers, one above the 1\0 Ro7ite 12. BRUSSELS. Porte de Hal. other, and a projecting tower. The interior, skilfully adapted for this purpose by H. Beyaert, contains a rich Museum of Weapons. Admis- sion, see p. 75. On the Geound Floor are Belgian and French cannon. The principal saloon on the First Floor is divided by pillars into three sections. At the sides of the entrance are the stufled skins of the horses ridden by the Archduke Albert and the Infanta Isabella on their entry into Brussels in 1599; also portions of the harness. At the beginning of the left aisle are swords of the 16-1 7th cent.: at the beginning of the right aisle, artistic hunting-weapons of the same date. The numerous suits of armour (mainly of German workmanship) deserve notice, the best of which are in or near the central division. In front, to the left, and also farther on, heavy tilting-armour of the 15th century, fluted suits introduced in the 16th cent, by Emp. Maximilian : to the right, suit of mail of the end of the 16th cent., perhaps belonging to Philip II. ; to the right, horseman's armour with large flowers on a black ground; in the centre are an equestrian suit of the latter half of the 16th cent. and a shirt of mail with accompanying horse-armour of the same date. — In a glass cabinet several sumptuous weapons : helmet with reliefs in an antique style in embossed work; gauntlets and dagger used by Charles V. and Archduke Albert. — Then clubs, axes, breast-plates, and shields (large German storming-shield, circular shield with gilt ornament) ; helmets (several richly embossed with reliefs: David, with the head of Goliath, and Saul; Judith with the head of Holophernes); morions, several richly ornamented and gilt: halberds, swords. — Arquebuses with lunt and match-lock, others with wheel-locks, most of them German works of the 16th and 17th cent. ; muskets, hunting-weapons, hunting-horns, and powder- flasks. — Oriental weapons: guns, small cannon, Turkish suit of mail for horse and rider, the latter with sentences of the Koran, from the arsenal at Constantinople. Second Floor. Modern weapons : French weapons of the first Republic and the first Empire; sabres and swords of all kinds, Belgian fire-arms from the 17th century onwards (among them those of King Leopold I.), models of artillery, etc. Japanese and African weapons. Third Floor. Ethnographical Collection (Mexican antiquities, etc.). The section of the boulevards skirting the TV. side of the old town of Brussels is generally known as the 'Lower Boulevards'. Of these we first reach the Boulevard du Midi (PL B, 6, 5, 4). On the right stands the Blind Asylum ^' Orphanage (PL C, 6), a Gothic brick building with a clock-tower, designed by Cluysenaar (1858). Opposite, on the left, is the Cite Fontainas (PL B, 6), an asylum for unemployed teachers and governesses. — ■ Farther on is the Station du Midi (PL B, 5). — Opposite diverge the broad Avenue du Midi^ the continuation of which is the Rue du Midi, ending behind the Bourse (p. 107), and the Boulevard du Hainaut (p. 107). In the Lower Boulevards, farther to the N., stands the Ecole Veterinaire (PL B, 5), and beyond it are the extensive Abattoirs (slaughter-houses; PL B, 3). Near the latter begins the Canal, 45 M. long, which connects Brussels with the Sambre near Charleroi. Fi- nally, the tasteful Caserne du Petit- Chateau, in the Tudor style, and the Entrepot Royal (PL C, 1), or custom-house. g. The New Quarters of the Town to the E. To the E. of the Boulevard du Re'gent (p. 109) lies the modern and handsome, but somewhat monotonous Quabtibr Leopold, in Musee Wiertz. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. Ill the centre of which rises the church of St. Joseph (PI. F, 4), a Renais- sance huilding of 1849, by the elder Suys. The facade and towers are constructed of blue limestone. The altarpiece is a Flight into Egypt by Wiertz. In the Place du Luxembourg (PL F, 5), the open space in front of the Station du Quartier Leopold^ a Statue of John Cockerill (d. 1840), the founder of the iron-works of Seraing (p. 219), by A. Cattier, was erected in 1872. The lofty limestone pedestal is surrounded by figures of four miners. On the E. side of the station lies the Pare Leopold (PL G, 5 ; en- trance Rue Belliard; tramway, see p. 74), formerly laid out as a zoological garden, with picturesque clumps of trees and a pond ; military concerts frequently on summer evenings. In the N. part of the park are a Physiological Institution, opened in 1894, and a Bacteriological Institute. On the E. side is the new Anatomic. On the elevated S. side rises the new Musee d'Histoire Naturelle (PL G, 5; entr. from the Park and the Rue Vautier), opened in 1891. Adm., seep. 75. On the Geodnd-Floob is the collection of Mammalia and Birds, con- taining stuffed specimens and skeletons, including a collection of whales. Here are also several skeletons, 25 ft, high, of the "Iguanodon ("/. Bevnis- sartensis and /. MantelU), the largest representative of the fossil Saurian family of reptiles. These were found, along with eighteen similar skeletons, in the coal-measures of Bernissart (p. 68) in Hainault, and are the first perfect skeletons discovered of this gigantic lizard. Adjacent are fossil crocodiles. In the 'Salle des Cavernes', in the N.W. corner of the groundfloor, are the rich collections of hone-relics and objects of the stone age discovered in the caves on the Lesse (p. 197). On the First Floor are the collections of Fishes and Reptiles and of Fossil Vertebrata (chalk- formation, tertiary and quaternary epochs). The latter, which is especially rich and of great scientific importance, includes (besides the Iguanodon, see above) tolerably perfect skeletons of the *Mo- sasaurua, *Hainosaurus , Prognathosaurus, Plioplatecarpus, various fossil crocodiles, tortoises, and fishes, primeeval elephant (Elephas antiquus), JIammolh (found in 1860 at Lierre), Irish elK (Cervus megaceros). Rhino- ceros Tichorhinus, Musk-ox, etc. The trunk of a species of yew, from the chalk-formation, is also exhibited here , covered with various kinds of shells. — On the Second Floor are the collections of Articulata, Mol- lusca, and Radiata, Fossil Plants, and Minerals. On the W. side of the park (Rue Wiertz, at the back of the station) is the large Etablissement d' Horticulture Internationale (Director, M. Linden), opened in 1889. — In the Rue Vautier, diverging from the Rue Wiertz to the E., No. 62 is the — *Musee Wiertz (PL G, 5; entrance by an iron gate opposite the Natural History Museum), formerly the country-residence and studio of the highly-gifted but eccentric painter Anton Joseph Wiertz (1806-65), after whose death it was purchased by government (adm., see p. 75). Interesting catalogue, containing also a sketch of the artist's life, 1/2 fr. Large pictures : 1. Contest for the body of Patroclus, 1845; 3. Homeric battle ; 4. One of the great of the earth (Polyphemus devouring the com- panions of Ulysses), painted in 1860; 8. Contest of good with evil, 1842; 14. The beacon of Golgotha-, 16. The triumph of Christ, 1848. The follow- 112 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Musee d Art. ing are smaller works: 5. Forge of Vulcan; 11. Education of the Virgin ; 15. Entombment, with the Aneel of Evil and the Fall on the wings; 21. Hunger, Madness, and Crime; 22. The suicide; 23. Vision of a beheaded man; 24. Orphans, with the inscription 'Appel a la bienfaisance'': 25. The lion of Waterloo: 26. Courage of a Belgian lady; 28. Xapoleon in the in- fernal regions; 36. The young witch; 37. The rosebud; 52. The last cannoa (1855); opposite, on the right end-wall, 73. Portrait of his mother: 76. Pur- trait of the painter ; 95. Concierge. In the corners of the room are wooden screens, through peepholes in which paintings hung behind them are seen. The effect is curiously realistic. The three marble groups in the middle of the room, representing the development of the human race, are also by Wiertz. A monument to Wiertz was erected in 1881 in the Place de la Couronue (PI. F, Gr, 6), with a hronze group hy J. Jacques. We may return hence to the Boulevard du Regent by steam-tramway (No. 1, on p. 73). Following the Rue Juste-Lipse (PI. G, 5,4) from the N.E. corner of the Pare Leopold and diverging by the first side-street (Rue de Comines) to the right, we arrive in a few minutes at the Rond Point, a circular space with gardens. The Rond Point may also be reached from the N.E. corner of the Park (p. 79) in 20 min. via the wide Rue de la Loi (PL F, G, 4 ; tramway, p. 74), the continuation of which leads hence to the Pare du Cinquantenaire, formerly the drill-ground (see Map, p. 114). This was the scene of the exhibition of 1880 and is now devoted to that of 1897. The pair of decorative columns from the quarries of Quenast date from the former exhibition. Straight in front rises the — Palais du Cinquantenaire, built in 1879 by Bordiau, and con- sisting of two wings, which are united by means of a crescent- shaped colonnade with a lofty triumphal arch in the middle. The S. wing is used at present for meetings, etc. ('Salle des Fetes') : the N. wing, to the left as we approach from the Rond Point, ac- commodates the — Musee d'Art Monumental et Industriel (adm. see p. 75). This museum embraces a collection of plaster -casts and of copies of paintings, and a museum of original works, chiefly in the domain of industrial art. We first enter the Maix Hall, containing casts of ancient and modern works of art. Specially noteworthy are the reproductions of mediaeval and Renaissance sculptures from Oudenaarde, Leau, Hal, Louvain, and other Flemish towns. Straight on is the crescent-shaped Central Building, in the outer (left) gallery of which are a few plaster-casts, numerous copies of famous paintings, and a number of original cartoons by Mor. Than, J.Swerts, 0. Guffens, F. Geselschap, Puvis de Chavannes. etc. Among the casts may be mentioned those of Siemering's equestrian statues of Bismarck and Moltke (at Leipsic), and among the paint- ings a large composition (25 ft. by 25 ft.) by E. Wauters represent- ing the arrival of King John Sobieski of Poland to raise the siege of Vienna by the Turks. Musced'Art. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 113 The inner gallery, which is divided into a large main hall and five side-rooms, contains the *Mus^.e d'Art Industribl Ancien. Catalogues for some of the sections are puhlished. At the beiimning of the outer gallery, immediately to the left of the entrance from the main hall, are several cases with . Prehistoric Articlea found in Belgium, and, on the wall, a collection of small Japanese Pictures of the 18th cent.; in front, a painted beam (16th cent.) from the ceiling of the Abbey of Herckeurode. — To the right , Egiiptian Antiquities. — The walls here and farther on are hung with valuable tapestry, chiefly from the looms of Brussels and Oudenaarde (15-18lh cent.). Large Koom. Immediately to the right, below the Egyptian anti- quities, are Roman Inscriptions^ etc. The four cabinets in front of these contain Antique Vases, ist case: several tasteful drinking -vessels, etc. 2nd case: Greek and Etruscan black vases with stamped ornamentation. 3rd case (in frontl : 10,052. Drinking-vessel with reliefs from the Iphigenia of Euripides; 10,04S. Small vase with a charming picture of a mother and child in the centre; several terracottas from Tanagra. 4th case: Black vases with red figures; Attic lekythoi. Between these cases is an antique marble vase, with relief (labours of Hercules), of Graco-Roman work- manship. — Then, Antique Bronzes: weapons, implements, ornaments; also some gold and silver ornaments. Antique Glass. — In the wall-cases to the left are Roman Antiquities found in Belgium., in bronze, terracotta, and glass. On the right side: Egyptian Sarcophagi; two Mosaics from Carth- age; Etruscan Cists; dinii(\yi.Q Sarcophagus Relief ("i^i-i\xn\^\x oil^oloi^s)'., statue of Pudicitia. — Farther on, a Prankish Tomb from Harmignies (Hainault), and in the middle of the room cases with objects from Prankish tombs. Mediaeval and Modem Section. Tables with seals and impressions; ancient weights and measures ; watches and watch-cocks. Two cases with ivory carvings. To the left: *Reliquary shaped like a Romanesque church (from the middle Rhine; 12th cent.), elephant's tusk with Romanesque gold mounting, Romanesque and Gothic book- covers, etc., of the ll-L5th cent.; large Byzantine diptych (8th cent.); combs, etc.; to the right: 14-17. Goblets with very fine Renaissance reliefs; high -relief ascribed to Oirard van Opstaly The three Graces (I7th cent.). — In the wall-cases to the left: articles in wrought iri)n ; tin dishes and vessels of German, Freiich, and Belgian workmanship; mediaval aquamanilia and other bronzes; censers; bells; leather-work. Three cabinets with Ecclesiastical Articles ; in the middle: *22. Head of Pope St. Alexander, in silver (1140), on an enamelled reliquary (12th cent.); costly reliquaries in gold, adorned with enamels, gems, and tigures (13th cent.); to the left: Enamelled crucifixes, set with jewels (12-llUh cent.); Cross in rock-crystal with ivory figures (17th cent.); cups; mon- strances; — to the right: Reliquaries in the shape of sarcophagi or small altars, Romanesque and Gothic (12 -14th cent.). — Cabinet with valuable Watches Jc Appendages of the 18th century. The following large case contains goldsmith's work: Bishop's crozier (18th cent.); Limoges enamel; large flat dishes with beaten reliefs (16-17 th cent.); goblets; ostrich-eggs in a costly setting ; crown with gems (i4th cent.) ; insignia of the presidents of a guild. In the wall-case to the left : Carvings in wood and alabaster. In the middle of the room: Three Gothic Choir-desks, in metal (15th cent.); "Romanesque Font, cast in bronze (I2th cent.), with noteworthy figures in high relief; four stone Fonts in the Romanesque style (12th cent.) and one in the Gothic style (15th cent.). — By the left wall: Gothic *Altar in carved wood, with the Martyrdom of St. George, by Johann jBorrema« 4 (14'J3); beneath, Antependium, with stamped gilt ornamentation (17th cent.). To the right and left, two large brasses, with engraved figures (14th and 16th cent.). — Opposite, at the entrance to the second side-room (see below): two Easter Candelabra (12-13th cent.). In the centre of the room: Faience from Spain (Moorish), Italy, and France (Palissy ware). — Two table-cases and the wall-cabinet to the left contain Chinese Porcelain (li^th cent.), some made to oi'der for European Baedekeu's Belgium and Holland. 12th Edit. 8 114 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Musee d'Art. princes. Dutch Faience of the 17tli cent. (Delft. Brussels, Tournai)-, Dutch and German Porcelain; on a stand: Large vase with floral garlands (iSth cent.). — On the right site of the room is a Gothic Altar in carved wood, painted and gilded, with scenes from the life of Christ (15th or iSth cent.); helow, German Altar Cloth embroidered in gold and silver on a red ground (ca. j.220-30); small Private Altar of 1535. — Opposite, on the left side of the room. Relief in terracotta, Virgin with saints, in the style (if the Delia Robbia; faience plaques. Four cabinets with Rhenish Stonetcare; two cabinets with German and Venetian Glass. — To the right, fine marble bust of Justus Lipsius (p. 206), — In the wall-case to the lelt, Coptic Embroideries. Eight cabinets with Brussels and other Lace and Embroidery ; Ecclesiast- ical Vestments, Rococo Costumes; Chests; Caskets. At the end of the hall: painted and stamped tiles of the 16-17th cent.; Dutch wall-tiles, with pictures. — The steps to the right lead to the fifth side-room (p. 115), the paasage to the left to the — Last section of the outer gallery. Here are two State Carriages^ a sledge, and a litter of the 18th century. — We now return to the section of the antiquities and ascend the steps (p. 113) to the — 1st Side Room, containing the smaller antiquities, presented to the Museum by M. de Meester de Ravestein, tor fourteen years Belgian minister at the Vatican. In the centre is a bust of M. de Ravestein. The Collection of Antique Vases begins in the case to the right of the entrance (early black Etruscan vases and Corinthian vases of the 7th cent. B.C.), and is continued in the cases in the middle of the room, which contain specimens illustrating the developed Greek ceramic art of the 5th and 4th cent. B.C. First come earlier vases with black figures on a red ground; then vases with red figures on a black ground. The last case by the (E.) end-wall next the exit contains vases from Lower Italy, dating from the period of decadence (4th-2nd cent. B.C.), extravagant in form and decoration. The table-cases between the cabinets of vases contain various anti- quities. To the right of the entrance, beside the Etruscan vases and a cabinet of Egyptian antiquities (right end-wall), are Bronze Mirrors, most of which are Etruscan with long handles and engraved figures; round mirror-cases, with figures in relief ; smaW 0.3.1 le&ien Votive Figures ; Bronze Implements: surgical instruments, knives, spoons, keys; Ornaments: 1478. Etruscan head- ornament of fine gold plates (from a tomb), ear-rings, necklaces ; antique Roman Glass Paste of fine colour, glass vessels, beads. Roman Coins of the republican era, arranged according to families ; large gold medal presented by Pius IX. to M. de Ravestein. — Terracotta Lamps (mostly Roman). Engraved Gems and Glass-paste. The cases along the window -wall contain Small Bronzes: tripods, lamps, candelabra, boxes, vessels, handles and hilts of various shapes, animals, bells, weapons, helmets, greaves, masks, weights; also numerous small bronze figures (the best in Cases 8 and lU). — Case 11 and the case opposite contain terracottas from Italy and Greece, many of them from Tanagra: masks and heads; reliefs from burial-urns ; vessels from Lower Italy in the shape of animals' heads, etc. ; 486. Terracotta doll found at Viterbo. — The case in the last window-recess contains objects in iron, bronze, terracotta, glass, stone, etc., mostly discovered in Belgium. — The desk-caaes at the end of the room contain a valuable collection of spec- imens of marble. Room II. Ecclesiastical Antiquities of the Mediaeval and Renaissance periods: carved altar-pieces (15-16th cent.), chiefly with scenes from the life of Christ; Gothic oak pulpit, with the four evangelists; Gothic oak confessional (16th cent.); opposite, Gothic altar-piece in carved wood (16th cent.); to the right, domestic altar with ivory figures (17th cent.); to the left, small Spanish altar-piece of the early ICth cent. ; handsome carved cabinets; by the exit, above. Carved Gothic oak singing- gallery, with figures of the Apostles (15th cent.) from Vianen (15th cent.). Then, sculptures in wood and stone (15-I6th cent.) and four table-cases with locks, keys, weights, measures, etc. Laeken. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 115 Room III. To the left, Carved and painted Gothic cradle, made for Maximilian I. and said to be the cradle of Charles V. To the right, Carved altar-pieces (15 16th cent.) •, cabinets of the 16th century. In the middle of the room, a table vs^ith artistic French lockamiths'" work {15-16th cent.). Room IV. Large Flemish marble chimney-piece, with carved, inlaid, and painted virooden top (17th cent.); furniture and bed of the 17th century. In the middle of the room, show-cases with Limoges enamel (16th cent.}; plaque with head of Jupiter; flat dishes, etc. To the left of the exit, carved wood ornaments for a picture - frame (17th cent.). — Room V. Furniture in the rococo style of the i7th cent., and a few specimens of the 16th cent. ; spinning-wheels ; Swiss stove. The Musee Scolaire National (admission, see p. 75) is a considerable collection of educational appliances, of Belgian and foreign origin. The Ist Room shows the development of FroebeFs system; the two following rooms contain appliances for use in primary schools (Ecoles Primaires) and in teachers' seminaries (Ecoles Normales), and work by school-children. The principal portion of the Exhibition grounds lies behind the Palais du Cinquantenaire. h. Environs of Brussels : Laeken, Bois de la Cambre. At the W. end of the Boulevard d'Anvers (PI. C, D, 1) begins the All^e Verte, a double avenue of limes planted in 1707, and extending along the bank of the Willebroeck Canal^ which connects Brussels with Malines and Antwerp. This avenue was formerly the most fashionable promenade at Brussels, but is now deserted. The steam-tramway to Humbeek (p. 116) runs through the Allee Verte, but its station at Laeken is at some distance from the church. For a short visit to Laeken the horse-tramway (p. 73 ; No. 3) is preferable (terminus opposite the church). Railway, see p. 11. Laeken (several Restaurants with gardens, e.g. the Grande Grille, to the right, near the church, well spoken of), a suburb of Brussels with 28,200 inhab., is the usual residence of the Royal family. The Brussels road ends opposite the new Church of St. Mary, designed by Poelaert. The exterior is still unfinished, especi- ally as regards its destined Gothic ornamentation, but the interior is finely proportioned. The place of the choir is occupied by an octagon, forming the royal burial-vault, and containing the remains of Leopold I. (d. 1865) and Queen Louise (d. 1850), the Crown-prince of Belgium (d. 1869), and Prince Baldwin of Flanders (d. 1891). The Cemetery of Laeken has sometimes been styled the Pere- Lachaise of Brussels, but can, of course, bear no comparison with the great burial-ground of Paris, either in extent or in the interest of the monuments. A small chapel here contains the tomb of the singer Malibran (d. 1836), adorned with a statue in marble by Geefs. The curious Galeries Funeraires in the S. part of the cemetery, resembling catacombs, have been constructed since 1877. The street passing the E. side of the church and skirting the royal garden and park (generally closed; celebrated hot-houses) ascends to the (20 min.) Montague du Tonnerre (197 ft.), an emi- nence crowned with the Monument of Leopold I., erected in 1880. 8* 116 Route 12. BRUSSELS. The statue of the king, by W. Geefs, is surmounted by a lofty Gothic canopy resting on massive round pillars, somewhat in the style of the Albert Memorial in London. A winding stair (open in summer till 7 p.m.) ascends to the base of the spire, whence a fine view (evening-light best) is obtained of Laeken and of Brussels, with the conspicuous dome of the Palais de Justice. — The monument is surrounded with pleasure-grounds ; to the W. lies the Ferme Royale. To the S.E. of the monument, on the right of and visible from the road to it, rises the Royal Chateau, erected by Duke Albert of Saxe-Teschen when Austrian stadtholder of the Netherlands in 1782-84. In 1802-14 it was in the possession of Napoleon I., who dated here his declaration of war against Russia in 1812. In 1815 the chateau became the property of the Crown. Leopold I. died here on 16th Dec, 1865. On New Year's Day 1890 a great part of the chateau was destroyed by fire and among the many objects of art which perished in the flames were Napoleon's library, valuable tap- estries, and paintings by Van Dyck. The chateau has been rebuilt in its previous form. The steam-tramway proceeds from Laeken to (S'/z M.) Hunibeek. About 31/2 M. to the N. of Laeken, and V4 M. from the village of Mepsse, is the beautiful chateau of Bouchout, fitted up in 1879 as a resi- dence for the unfortunate Princess Charlotte, widow of the Emp. Maximi- lian of Mexico, who was shot in 1867. In the Central Cemetery at Evere, which is reached by the steam- tramways Nos. 6 (fe 7 mentioned at p. 74, a tasteful monument has been erected to the German soldiers who died in Belgium during the Franco-German war. The pleasantest promenade in the environs of Brussels is the *Bois de la Cambre, on the S.E. side, being a part of the Foret de Soignes, converted into a beautiful park resembling the Bois de Boulogne of Paris , under the auspices of M. Keilig, a landscape gardener. It covers an area of 306 acres, and is reached from the Boulevard de Waterloo by the broad and handsome Avenue Louise (PL D, E, 6), or Avenue du Bois de la Cambre, I72 M. in length, which is flanked by a number of handsome new houses. Before the Bois is reached, on the left, are the church of Ste. Croix and the two ponds of the suburb of Ixelles; farther on, on the same side, is the old Abbaye de la Cambre de Notre Dame, now a military school and cartographical institution (adm. 1-3). In the gardens adjoining the Avenue Louise is a bronze group by Yin^otte, representing a Horse-tamer. Two steam-tramways (lines No. 1 and 2) and an elec- tric tramway (No. 3, see p. 74) skirt the Bois de la Cambre, and the horse-car-line (No, 1, p. 73) runs to the entrance of the park, where there are several cafes and restaurants. In the park itself, near the entrance, is the Bufi'et du Gymnase; farther on, the 'Lai- terie', and on an island in a small lake, the 'Chalet Robinson' restau- rant. — Beyond the Bois de la Cambre is the Hippodrome, used for horse-races, and reached by the steam-tramway No. 1 (p. 74) from the Porte de Namur. ■ " .'111- '/' >-T .tA'/ ^ ^ / y s^ Chanipx o^' , A— tall v.r Eclie]lei:51200 CJeiiappe^"'"^;;^?^ laiprime p.WagTier&Debes.Le^lill f ^ ^ Kilometres i 117 13. From Brussels to Charleroi via Luttre. Battle Field of Waterloo. 35 M. Railwat in 11/4-2 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 30, 4 fr., 2 fr. 65 c., or 4 fr. 25, 3 fr. 20, 2 fr. 15 c). — This line affords a convenient route to the Field of Waterloo, especially for a single traveller. Those who merely desire a gen- eral view of the battle-field should take the train to Braine T^Wewc? (13 M. , in 40 min. ; faxes 1 fr. 45, 1 fr. 10, 75 c), whence the Hill of the Lion is IV2M. distant. Omnibus from Braine TAlleud to theHill of theLiunand back V/-Z fr. (preferable to walking, as the traveller thus escapes the importunity of beggars). The walk described below, from Waterloo to Mont St. Jean, La Haye Sainte, La Belle Alliance., Plancenoit., and back by Hougomont and the lAon Hill to Braine VAlleud, in all 7-8 M., is, however, far more interest- ing. If the walk be prolonged from Plancenoit to the S. to Genappe, the whole distance will be about 12 M. — A coach leaves Brussels daily (except Sundays) between 9 and 10 a.m. for Waterloo, allowing 2-3 hrs. to visit the battle-field, and arrives again in Brussels about 5 p.m. (drive of 2 hrs. ; return-fare 7fr). It starts from the Place Royale and calls at the principal hotels in the upper t' wn. One-horse carriage from Brussels to Waterloo, 20 fr. ; two-horse, 30 fr. The train starts from the Station du Midi at Brussels (p. 70"), and traverses a pleasant country , passing through numerous cut- tings. Stations Forest, Uccle - Stalle , Vccle- Calevoet, Linkebeek, Rhode-Saint-Genese. 10 M. Waterloo, celebrated for the great battle of 18th June, 1815, and the headquarters of the Duke of Wellington from 17th to 19th June. The village lies on the Brussels and Charleroi road, 3/4 M. from the station. The church contains Wellington's bust, by Geefs , and numerous marble slabs to the memory of English of- ficers. One tablet is dedicated to the officers of the Highland regi- ments, and a few others to Dutch officers. The garden of a peasant (a few paces to the N. of the church) contains an absurd monument to the leg of the Marquis of Anglesea (d. 1854), then Lord Uxbridge, the commander of the British cavalry, who underwent the amputa- tion immediately after the battle. The monument bears an appro- priate epitaph, and is shaded by a weeping willow. Battle Field. A visit to Mont St. Jean, the two monuments on the battle-field, the Lion, and the farms of La Haye Sainte and Hougomont, occupies 2 hrs.; to La Belle Alliance and Plancenoit 2 hrs. more. The traveller will, however, obtain a general survey of the field during the first 2 hours. Guides. The annexed plan and the following brief sketch of the battle will enable the visitor to form a distinct conception of the positions occu- pied by the respective armies without the services of a guide. The usual fee for the principal points of interest is 2fr. ; if the excursion be extended to Plancenoit or Planchenois and the chateau of Frichemont, 3-4 fr. ; but an agreement should invariably be made beforehand. Sergeant-Major D. W. Yates, at the Museum Hotel (appointed by the Corps of Commission- aires in London as lecturer and guide), may be recommended. Kelics. Old bullets, weapons, buttons, and other relics are still occa- sionally turned up by the plough, but most of those which the traveller is importuned to purchase are spurious. Inns at Mont St. Jean (p. 126): Bdtel Mont St. Jean and (to the right where the road to Nivelles diverges from the Namur road) Hdtel des Colonnes. On the mound of the Lion, '"Hotel du Mus4e, moderate. 1\S Route 13. WATERLOO. Sketch of Sketch of the Battle. A detailed history of the momentous events (if 18th June, 1815, would be beyond the scope of a guide-book; but a brief and impartial outline, with a few statistics derived from the most trustworthy English and German sources, may perhaps be acceptable to those who visit this memorable spot. The ground on which Wellington took up his position after the Battle of Quatre Bras was admirably adapted for a defensive battle. The high- roads from Nivelles and Genappe unite at the village of Mont Saint Jean, whence the main route leads to Brussels. In front of the village extends a long chain of hills with gentle slopes, which presented all the advantages sought for by the Allies. The undulating ground behind this range afforded every facility for posting the cavalry and reserves so as to conceal them from the enemy. In this favourable position Wellington was fully justified in hoping at least to hold his own, even against a stronger enemy, until the assistance promised by Bliicher should arrive. The first line of the Allied army, beginning with the right wing (on the W.) was arranged as follows. On the extreme right were placed two bri- gades of the British household troops, consisting of two battalions of Foot- Guards under Gen. Maitland, and two battalions of the Coldstream Guards under Gen. Byng. Kext came a British brigade of four battalions under Gen. Sir Colin Halkett, adjoining whom were Kielmannsegge with five brigades of Hanoverians and a corps of riflemen, Col. Ompteda with a bri- gade of the German Legion, and finally Alten's division. The whole of this portion of the line occupied the hills between the Nivelles and Genappe roads. Beyond the latter (i.e., farther to the E.) Kemp was stationed with the 28th and 32nd regiments, a battalion of the 79th, and one of the 95th Rifles. Next came Bylant with one Belgian and five Dutch battalions, sup- ported by Pack's brigade, posted a short distance in their rear, and consist- ing of the 44th. These four battalions had suffered severely at Quatre Bras and were greatly reduced in number, but their conduct throughout the battle abundantly proved that their discipline and courage were unimpaired. Beyond the Netherlanders were drawn up Best's Hanoverians and Picton's infantry division, the latter partly composed of Hanoverians under Col. von Vincke. Kext to these were stationed Vandeleur's brigade, the 11th, 12th, and 16th Light Dragoons, and finally on the extreme left (to the E.) three regiments of light cavalry, consisting of the 10th and 18th British, and the 1st Hussars of the German Legion. The first line of the Allies was strengthened at various distances by Grant's and Doernberg's cavalry-brigades, consisting of three English regi- ments and three of the German Legion respectively, and posted near the Guards and Sir Colin Halkett. Next to them came a regiment of Hussars of the German Legion under Col. Arentschild ; then, to the E. of the Genappe road, two heavy brigades, the Household and the Union, to sup- port Alten's and Picton's divisions. The former of these brigades was com- posed of the 1st and 2nd Life Guards and the 1st Dragoon Guards under Lord Ed. Somerset; the latter of the 1st Royal Dragoons, the Scots Greys, and the Irish Inniskillens, commanded by Gen. Sir W. Ponsonby. Besides the first line and the troops destined to cover it, various other forces were distributed as the circumstances and the formation of the ground required. Thus a brigade under Col. Mitchell, Sir Henry Clinton's division, Du Plafs German brigade, Adam's light brigade, and Halkett's Hanoverians were drawn up on the W. side of the Kivelles Chaussee and near the village of Merbe Braine. Finally the reserve of Brunswickers and Netherlanders, comprising infantry and cavalry, formed a line between Merbe Braine and Mont St. Jean, supported by Lambert's British brigade of three regiments, which had just arrived by forced marches from Ostend. — The artillery, consisting chiefly of British troops, were distributed as occasion required. Every battery present was brought into action during the day, and nobly fulfilled its duty. In front of the centre of the Allied army lay the Chdteau of Ilougo- mont, which with its massive buildings, its gardens and plantations, formed an admirable point d'appui for the defence of the heights above. It was garrisoned by two light companies under Lord Saltoun, and two under Col. the Battle. WATERLOO. 13. Route. 119 Macdonnel, strengthened by a battalion of Nassovians, a company of Hano- verian riflemen, and about 100 men of the German Legion. This point holds a prominent place in the history of the battle, both on account of the fury with which it was attacked by the French, and the heroic and success- ful defence of its occupants. Farther to the left, and nearer the front of the Allies, lay La Haye Sainte , a farm-house which was occupied by 400 men of the German Legion under Major von Baring, but after a noble de- fence was taken by the French. The defence of the farms of Papelotte and La Haye on the extreme left was entrusted to the Nassovian Brigade under Duke Bernard of Weimar. Napoleon's army was drawn up in a semicircle on the heights lO the E. and W. of the farm of La Belle Alliance, about one mile distant from the Allies. It was arranged in two lines, with a reserve in the rear. The first line consisted of two corps d'armie commanded by Reille and D'Erlon respectively, and flanked by cavalry on either side. One corps extended from La Belle Alliance westwards to the Nivelles road and beyond it, the other eastwards in the direction of the chateau of Frichemont. The second line was composed almost entirely of cavalry. Milhaud's cuiras- siers and the light cavalry of the guards were drawn up behind the right wing, Kellermann's heavy cavalry behind the left. A body of cavalry and a portion of Lobau's corps were also stationed in the rear of the centre, whilst still farther back the imperial guard, consisting of infantry and artillery, were drawn up in reserve on each side of the chaussee. The Duke of Wellington's army consisted of 67,600 men, 24,000 of whom were British, 30,000 troops of the German Legion, Hanoverians, Brunswickers, and Nassovians, and 13-14,000 Netherlanders. Of these 12,400 were cavalry, 5,600 artillery with 180 guns. The army brought into the field by Napoleon numbered 71,900 men, of whom 15,700 were cavalry, 7,200 artillery with 246 guns. Numerically, therefore, the dif- ference between the hostile armies was not great, but it must be borne in mind that no reliance could be placed on the Netherlanders, most of whom fled at an early stage of the battle. The staunch Dutch troops who formed part of this contingent did their utmost to prevent this das- tardly act, but their efforts were unavailing. Had they formed a separate corps they would have been most valuable auxiliaries, but when mingled with the Belgian troops their bravery was utterly paralysed. Practically, therefore, the Duke's army consisted of barely 50,000 men, composed of four or five different elements , and a large porportion of them were raw recruits, whilst the soldiers of Napoleon constituted a grand and admirably-disciplined unity, full of enthusiasm for their general , and confident of victory. The superiority of the French artillery alone was overwhelming. After a wet and stormy night, the morning of the 18th of June gave some promise of clearing, but the sky was still overcast, and rain con- tinued to fall till an advanced hour. The ground, moreover, was so thoroughly saturated that the movements of the cavalry and artillery were seriously obstructed. This was probably the cause of Napoleon's tardiness in attacking the Allies, and of the deliberation with which he spent several rf the best hours of the morning in arranging his army with unusual display. It is not known precisely at what hour the first shots were fired ; some authorities mention 8 o'clock, others half-past eleven or twelve, while the Duke himself, in his published despatch, names ten as the hour of the commencement of the battle. It is, however, probable that the actual fighting did not begin till between eleven and twelve. The first movement on the part of the French was the advance of a division of Reille's covps d^arm4e under Jerome Bonaparte, a detach- ment of which precipitated itself against the chateau of Hougomont, and endeavoured to take it by storm, but was repulsed. They soon renewed the attack with redoubled fury, and the tirailleurs speedily forced their way into the enclosure, notwithstanding the gallant resistance made by the Hanoverian and Nassovian riflemen. The British howitzers, however, now began to pour such a deadly shower of shells on ^ the assailants that they were again compelled to retreat. This was but the prelude to 120 Route 13. WATERLOO. Sketch of a series of reiterated assaults, in which the French skirmishers in over- whelming numbers were more than once nearly successful. Prodigies of valour on the part of the defenders, vigorously seconded by the artillery on the heights, alone enabled the garrison to hold out until the victory was won. Had the French once gained possession of this miniature for- tress, a point of vital importance to the Allies, the issue of the day would probably have been very diflerent. "Whilst Hougomont and its environs continued to be the scene of a desperate and unremitting conflict, a second great movement on the part of the French was directed against the centre and the left wing of the Allies. Supported by a cannonade of 72 pieces, the whole of Erlon's corps and a division of Ke'llermann's cavalry, comprising upwards of 18,000 men, bristled in columns of attack on the heights above La Haye Sainte, pre- senting a magnificent but terrible spectacle. Their object was to storm La Haye Sainte, break through the centre of the Allied army, and attack the left wing in the rear. At the moment when Ney was about to begin the attack. Napoleon observed distant indications of the advance of new columns on his extreme right, and an intercepted despatch proved that they formed a part of the advanced guard of Billow's Prussians, who were approaching from Wavre. The attack was therefore delayed for a short time, and Soult despatched a messenger to Marshal Grouchy, directing him to manoeuvre his troops so as to intercept the Prussians. Owing, however, to a series of misunderstandings. Grouchy was too far distant from the scene of action to be of any service, and did not receive tjie order till seven in the evening. It was about two o'clock when Ney commenced his attack. The four divisions of Erlon's corps moved rapidly in four columns towards the Allied line between La Haye Sainte and Smouhen. Papelotte and Smouhen were stormed by Burette's division, but the former was not long maintained by the French. Donzelat's division took possession of the gardens of La Haye Sainte, notwithstanding the brave resistance of a Hanoverian bat- talion, while the two other French divisions, those of Alix and Marcog- net, pressed onwards without encountering any obstacle. Hardly had the two latter opened their fire on Bylant's Netherlandish contingent, when the Belgians were seized with a panic and thrown into confusion. All the efforts of their officers and the remonstrances of their Dutch com- rades were utterly unavailing to reassure them, and amid the bitter execrations of the British regiments they fairly took to flight. Picton's division, however, now consisting solely of the two greatly-reduced brigades of Pack and Kemp, and mustering barely 3000 men, prepared with un- daunted resolution to receive the attack of the two French divisions, numbering upwards of 13,000 infantry, besides cavalry. The stniggle was brief, but of intense fierceness. The charge of the British was irresist- ible, and in a few moments the French were driven back totally dis- comfited. The success was brilliant, but dearly purchased, for the gallant Picton himself was one of the numerous slain. During the temporary con- fusion which ensued among Kemp's troops, who, however, soon recovered their order, the Duke communicated with Lord Uxbridge, who put him- self at the head of Lord Edward Somerset's Household Brigade, consisting of two regiments of Life Guards, the Horse Guards, and Dragoon Guards. Meanwhile, too, a body of Milhaud's cuirassiers had advanced somewhat prematurely to La Haye Sainte and endeavoured to force their way up the heights towards the left centre of the Allied line. These two move- ments gave rise to a conflict of unparalleled fury between the elite of the cavalry of the hostile armies. For a time the French bravely persevered, but nothing could withstand the overwhelming impetus of the Guards as they descended the slope, and the cuirassiers were compelled to fly in wild confusion. Somerset's brigade, regardless of consequences and en- tirely unsupported, pursued with eager impetuosity. At this juncture two columns of the French infantry had advanced on Pack's brigade. The bagpipes yelled forth their war-cry, and the gallant Highlanders dashed into the thickest of the fight, notwithstanding the terrible majority of their enemy. This was one of the most daring exploits of the day ; but the Battle. WATERLOO. 13. Route. 121 the mere handful of Northmen must inevitably have been cut to piecea to a man, had not Col. Ponsonby with the Inniskillens, the Scots Greys, and the Royal Dragoons opportunely flov?n to the rescue. The cavalry charge was crowned with brilliant success, and the French infantry were utterly routed. Pack's troops now recovered their order, and were re- strained from the pursuit, but Ponsonby's cavalry, intoxicated with suc- cess, swept onwards. The Royals encountered part of Alix's division, which was advancing towards Mont St. Jean, where a gap had been left by the flight of the Belgians. A fearful scene of slaughter ensued, and the French again endeavoured to rally. This charge was simultaneous with that of Lord Uxbridge on the cuirassiers, as mentioned above. At the same time the Greys and Inniskillens, who were in vain commanded to halt and rally, madly prosecuted their work of destruction. Somerset's and Ponsonby's cavalry had thus daringly pursued their enemy until they actually reached the French line near Belle Alliance. Here, however, their victorious career was checked. A fresh body of French cuirassiers and a brigade of lancers were put in motion against them, and they were compelled to retreat with considerable confusion and great loss. At this crisis Vandeleur's Light Dragoons came to the rescue, and the tide of the conflict was again turned ; but the French, whose cavalry far outnumbered those of the Allies, again compelled the British to abandon the unequal struggle. Retreat was once more inevitable, and the loss immense, but the French gained no decided advantage. Vandeleur himself fell, and Ponsonby was left on the field dangerously wounded. While the centre and left of the Allied line were thus actively en- gaged, the right was not suffered to repose. At a critical juncture, when Lord Saltoun and his two light companies were suffering severely in the defence of the orchard of Hougomont, and had been reduced to a mere handful of men, a battalion of Guards under Col. Hepburn was sent to their relief and drove off the French tirailleurs, whose loss was enormous. The chateau had meanwhile taken lire, and the effects of the conflagration were most disastrous to the little garrison, but most fortunately for the sufferers the progress of the flames was arrested near the doorway, where a crucifix hung. The sacred image itself was injured, but not destroyed; and to its miraculous powers the Belgians attributed the preservation of the defenders. There was now a pause in the musketry fire, but the cannonade on both sides continued with increasing fury, causing frightful carnage. Erlon's and Reille's corps sustained a loss of nearly half their numbers, and of the former alone 3000 were taken prisoners. Nearly 40 of the French cannon were moreover silenced, their gunners having been slain. Napoleon now determined to make amends for these disasters by an overwhelming cavalry attack, while at the same time the infantry divisions of Je'rome and Foy were directed to advance. Milhaud's cuiras- siers and a body of the French Guards, 40 squadrons in all, a most mag- nificent and formidable array, advanced in three lines from the French heights, crossing the intervening valley, and began to ascend towards the Allies. During their advance the French cannonade was continue over their heads, ceasing only when they had nearly attained the brow of the opposite hill. The Allied artillery poured their discharge of grape and canister against the enemy with deadly effect, but without retarding their progress. In accordance with the Duke's instructions, the artillerymen now retreated for shelter behind the line; the French cavalry charged, and the foremost batteries fell into their possession. The Allied infantry, Germans as well as British, had by this time formed into squares. There was a pause on the part of the cavalry, who had not expected to find their enemy in such perfect and compact array ; but after a momentary hesitation they dashed onwards. Thus the whole of the cuirassiers, fol- lowed by the lancers and chasseurs swept through between the Allied squares, but without making any impression on them. Lord Uxbridge, with the fragments of his heavy cavalry , now hastened to the aid of the infantry, and drove the French back over the hill; but his numbers were too reduced to admit of his following up this success, and before long the French, vigorously supported by their cannonade, returned. Again they 122 Route 13. WATERLOO. Sketch of swept past the impenetrable squares, and again all their efforts to break them were completely baffled, while their own ranks were terribly thinned by the fire of the undaunted Allies. Thus foiled, they once more abandoned the attack. Donzelat's infantry had meanwhile been advancing to support them, but seeing this total discomfiture and retreat, they too retired from the scene of action. The Allied lines were therefore again free, and the cannonade alone was now continued on both sides. After this failure. Napoleon commanded Kellermann, with his dragoons and cuirassiers, to support the retreating masses, and Guyot's heavy cavalry of the Guards advanced with the same object. These troops, con- sisting of 37 fresh squadrons, formed behind the shattered fragments of the 40 squadrons above mentioned, and rallied them for a renewed attack, and again the French line assumed a most threatening and imposing aspect. Perceiving these new preparations, the Duke of Wellington con- tracted his line so as to strengthen the Allied centre, immediately after which manoeuvres the French cannonade burst forth with redoubled fury. Again a scene precisely similar to that already described was re-enacted. The French cavalry ascended the heights, where they were received with a deadly cannonade, the gunners retired from their pieces at the latest possible moment, the French rode in vast numbers between the squares, and again the British and German infantry stood immovable. The cavalry then swept past them towards the Allied rear, and here they met with partial success, for a body of Netherlanders whom they had threatened at once began to retreat precipitately. As in the earlier part of the day. Lord Uxbridge flew to the rescue with the remnants of his cavalry, vigorously seconded by Somerset and Grant, and again the French horse- men were discomfited. Lord Uxbridge now ordered a brigade of Belgian and Dutch carbineers, who had not as yet been in action, and were stationed behind Mont St. Jean, to charge the French cavalry who had penetrated to the allied rear ; but his commands were disregarded, and the Netherlanders took to flight. A body of Hussars of the German Legion, however, though far outnumbered by their enemy, gallantly charged them, but were compelled to retreat. The battle-field at this period presented a most remarkable scene. Friends and foes, French, German, and British troops, were mingled in apparently inextricable con- fusion. Still, however, the Allied squares were unbroken, and the French attack, not being followed up by infantry, was again a failure. The assail- ants accordingly, as before, galloped down to the valley in great confusion, after having sustained some disastrous losses. Lord Uxbridge attempted to follow up this advantage by bringing forward a fresh regiment of Hanoverian Hussars, but he was again doomed to disappointment; for the whole troop, after having made a pretence of obeying his command, wheeled round and fled to Brussels, where they caused the utmost con- sternation by a report that the Allies were defeated. During the whole of this time the defence of Hougomont had been gallantly and successfully carried on, and Du Plat with his Brunswickers had behaved with undaunted courage when attacked by French cavalry and tirailleurs in succession. The brave general himself fell, but his troops continued to maintain their ground, whilst Adam's Brigade ad- vanced to their aid. Overwhelming numbers of French infantry, how- ever, had forced their way between them, and reached the summit of the hill, threatening the right wing of the Allies with disaster. At this juncture the Duke at once placed himself at the head of Adam's brigade and commanded them to charge. The assault was made with the utmost enthusiasm, and the French were driven from the heights. The entire Allied line had hitherto held its ground, and Hougomont proved impreg- nable. Napoleon therefore directed his efforts against La Haye Sainte, a point of the utmost importance, which was bravely defended by Major von Baring and his staunch band of Germans. Ney accordingly ordered Donzelat's division to attack the miniature fortress. A furious cannonade opened upon it was the prelude to an attack by overwhelming numbers of tirailleurs. The ammunition of the defenders was speedily exhausted, the buildings took fire, and Baring with the utmost reluctance directed the Battle. WATERLOO. 13. Route. 123 the wreck of his detachment to retreat through the garden. With heroic bravery the major and his gallant officers remained at their posts until the French had actually entered the house, and only when farther resist- ance would have been certain death did they finally yield (see p. 127) and retreat to the lines of the Allies. After this success, the French pro- ceeded to direct a similar concentrated attack against Hougomont, but in vain, for arms and ammunition were supplied in abundance to the little garrison, whilst the cannonade of the Allies was in a position to render them efficient service. La Haye Sainte, which was captured between 5 and 6 o'clock p.m., now became a most advantageous point d'appui for the French tirailleurs, in support of whom Ney, during upwards of an hour, directed a succession of attacks against the Allied centre, but still with- out succeeding in dislodging or dismaying the indomitable squares. Their numbers, indeed, were fearfully reduced, but their spirit was unbroken. There was, moreover, still a considerable reserve which had not yet been in action, although perhaps implicit reliance could not be placed on their steadiness. It was now nearly 7 p.m., and the victory on which the French had in the morning so confidently reckoned was still entirely unachieved. Meanwhile Bliicher, with his gallant and indefatigable Prussians, whose timely arrival, fortunately for the Allies, prevented Napoleon from employing his reserves against them, had been toiling across the wet and spongy valleys of St. Lambert and the Lasne towards the scene of action. The patience of the weary troops was well-nigh exhausted. ' We can go no farther', they frequently exclaimed. 'We must\ was Blvicher's reply. 'I have given Wellington my word, and you won't make me break it!' It was about 4.30 p.m. when the first Prussian battery opened its fire from the heights of Frichemont, about 2^/4 miles to the S.E. of the Allied centre, whilst at the same time two cavalry regiments advanced to the attack. They were first opposed by Domont's cavalry division, beyond which Lobau's corps approached their new enemy. One by one the dif- ferent brigades of Billow's corps arrived on the field between Frichemont and Planchenois. Lobau stoutly resisted their attack, but his opponents soon became too powerful for him. By 6 o'clock the Prussians had 48 guns in action, the balls from which occasionally reached as far as the Genappe road. Lobau was now compelled to retreat towards the vil- lage of Planchenois, a little to the rear of the French centre at Belle Alliance. This was the juncture, between 6 and 7 o'clock, when Ney was launching his reiterated but fruitless attacks against the Allied centre, 27* miles distant from this point. Napoleon now despatched eight bat- talions of the guard and 24 guns to aid Marshal Lobau in the defence of Planchenois, where a sanguinary conflict ensued. Hitler's brigade en- deavoured to take the village by storm, and succeeded in gaining posses- sion of the churchyard, but a furious and deadly fusillade from the houses compelled them to yield. Reinforcements were now added to the combat- ants of both armies. Napoleon sent four more battalions of guards to the scene of action, while fresh columns of Prussians united with Hitler's troops and prepared for a renewed assault. Again the village was taken, and again lost, the French even venturing to push their way to the vicinity of the Prussian line. The latter, however, was again reinforced by Tip- pelskirch's brigade, a portion of which at once participated in the struggle. About 7 o'clock Zieten arrived on the field, and united his brigade to the extreme left of the Allied line, which he aided in the contest near La Haye and Papelotte. Prussians continued to arrive later in the evening but of course could not now influence the issue of the battle. It became apparent to Napoleon at this crisis that if the Prussians succeeded in capturing Planchenois , while Wellington's lines continued steadfast in their position, a disastrous defeat of his already terribly-reduced army was inevitable. He therefore resolved to direct a final and desperate attack against the Allied centre, and to stimulate the flagging energies of his troops caused a report to be spread amongst them that Grouchy was ap- proaching to their aid, although well knowing this to be impossible. Napoleon accordingly commanded eight battalions of his reserve Guards 124 Route 13. WATERLOO. Sketch of to advance in two columns, one towards the centre of th^ Allied right, the other nearer to Hougomont, while they were supported by a reserve of two more battalions, consisting in all of about 5000 veteran soldiers, who had not as yet been engaged in the action. Between these columns were the remnants of Erlon's and Reille's corps, supported by cavalry, and somewhat in front of them Donzelat's division was to advance. Mean- while the Duke hastened to prepare the wreck of his army to meet the attack. Du Plat's Brunswickers took up their position nearly opposite La Haye Sainte, between Halkett's and Alten's divisions. Maitland's and Adam's brigades were nominally supported by a division of Kether- landers under Gen. Chasse, while Vivian with his cavalry quitted the extreme left and drew up in the rear of Kruse's Nassovians, who had already suffered severely, and now began to exhibit symptoms of wa- vering. Every available gun was posted in front of the line, and the orchard and plantations of Hougomont were strengthened by reinforce- ments. The prelude to the attack of the French was a renewed and furious cannonade, which caused frightful havoc among the Allies. Don- zelafs division then advanced in dense array from La Haye Sainte, in- trepidly pushing their way to the very summit of the height on which the Allies stood. At the same time several French guns supported by them were brought within a hundred yards of the Allied front, on which thej' opened a most murderous cannonade. Kielmannsegge's Hanoverians suffered severe loss, the wreck of Ompteda's German brigade was almost annihilated, and Kruse's Nassovians were only restrained from taking to flight by the efforts of Vivian's cavalry. The Prince of Orange then ral- lied the Nassovians and led them to the charge, but they were again driven back, and the Prince himself severely wounded. Du Plat's Brunswickers next came to the rescue and fought gallantly, but with no better result. The Duke, however, rallied them in person, and the success of the French was brief. At the same time the chief fury of the storm was about to burst forth farther to the right of the Allies. The Imperial Guard, com- manded by the heroic Ney, Friant, and Michel, and stimulated to the ut- most enthusiasm by an address from Napoleon himseif,f ormed in threaten- ing and imposing masses on the heights ot Belle Alliance, and there was a temporary lull in the French cannonade. The two magnificent columns, the flower of the French army, were now put in motion, one towards Hougomont and Adam's brigade, the other in the direction of Maitland and his Guards. As soon as the Guards had descended from the heights, the French batteries recommenced their work of destruction with terrible fury and precision, but were soon compelled to desist when they could no longer fire over the heads of their infantry. The latter had nearly attained the summit of the heights of the Allies, when the British gunners again resumed their work with redoubled energy, making innumerable gaps in the ranks of their assailants. Ney's horse was shot under him, but the gallant marshal continued to advance on foot ; Michel was slain, and Friant dangerously wounded. Notwithstanding these casualties, the Guards gained the summit of the hill and advanced towards that part of the line where Maitland's brigade had been ordered to lie down behind the ridge in the rear of the battery which crowned it. The Duke commanded here in person at this critical juncture. The French tirailleurs were speedily swept away by showers of grape and canister, but the column of French veterans continued to advance towards the apparently-unsupported battery. At this moment the Duke gave the signal to Maitland, whose Guards in- stantaneously sprang from the earth and saluted their enemy with a fierce and murderous discharge. The effect was irresistible, the French column was rent asunder and vainly endeavoured to deploy ; Maitland and Lord Saltoun gave orders to charge, and the British Guards fairly drove their assailants down the hill. — Meanwhile the other column of the Imperial Guard was advancing farther to the right, although vigorously opposed by the well-sustained fire of the British artillery, and Maitland's Guards returned rapidly and without confusion to their position to pre- pare for a new emergency. By means of a skilful manoeuvre, Col. Col- borne, with the 52nd, 71st, and 8oth now brought his forces to bear on the Battle. WATERLOO. 13. Route. 125 the flank of the advancing column, on which the three regiments simul- taneously poured their fire. Here, too, the British arms were again suc- cessful, and frightful havoc was committed in the French ranks. A scene of indescribable confusion ensued, during which many of Chasse's Nether- landers in the rear took to flight, knowing nothing of the real issue of the attack. At the same time Maitland and his Guards again charged with fierce impetuosity from their ' mountain throne ', and completed the rout of this second column of the Imperial Guard. In this direction, therefore, the fate of the French was sealed, and the Allies were tri- umphant. Farther to the left of the Allied line, moreover, the troops of Donzelat, Erlon, and Reille were in the utmost confusion, and totally un- able to sustain the conflict. On the extreme left, however, the right wing of the French was still unbroken, and the Young Guard valiantly defended Planchenois against the Prussians, who fought with the utmost bravery and perseverance notwithstanding the fearful losses they were sustain ing. Lobau also stoutly opposed Biilow and his gradually -increasing corps. Napoleon's well-known final order to his troops — ' Tout est per- du ! Sauve qui peut ! ' was wrung from him in his despair on seeing his Guard utterly routed, his cavalry dispersed, and his reserves consumed. This was about 8 o'clock in the evening, and the whole of the Allied line, with the Duke himself among the foremost, now descended from their heights, and, notwithstanding a final attempt at resistance on the part of the wreck of the Imperial Guard, swept all before them, mounted the enemy's heights, and even passed Belle Alliance itself. Still the battle raged fiercely at and around Planchenois, but shortly after 8 o'clock the gallant eft'orts of the Prussians were crowned with success. Planchenois was captured, Lobau and the Young Guard defeated after a most obstinate and sanguinary struggle, the French retreat became general, and the vic- tory was at length completely won. Not until the Duke was perfectly assured of this did he finally give the order for a general halt, and the Allies now desisted from the pursuit at a considerable distance beyond Belle Alliance. On his way back to Waterloo, Wellington met Bliicher at the Maison Rouge, or Maison du Roi, not far from Belle Alliance, and after mutual congratulations both generals agreed that they must advance on Paris without delay. Bliicher, moreover, many of whose troops were comparatively fresh, undertook that the Prussians should continue the pursuit, a task of no slight importance and difficulty, which Gen. Gneise- nau most admirably executed, thus in a great measure contributing to the ease and rapidity of the Allied march to Paris. So ended one of the most sanguinary and important battles which history records, in the issue of which the whole of Europe was deeply interested; With the few exceptions already mentioned, all the troops concerned fought with great bravery, and many prodigies of valour on the part of regiments, and acts of daring heroism by individuals, are on record. The loss of life on this memorable day was commensurate with the long duration and fearful obstinacy of the battle. Upwards of 50,000 soldiers perished, or were ?iors de combat, whilst the sufferings of the wounded baffle description. The loss of the Allies (killed, wounded, and missing) amounted to about 14,000 men. Of these the British alone lost 6932, including 456 officers ; the German contingents 4494, including 246 officers. The total loss of the Prussians was 6682 men, of whom 223 were officers. The Netherlanders estimated their loss at 4000 from the 15th to 18th June. The loss of the French has never been ascertained with certainty, but probably amounted to 30,000 at least, besides 7800 prisoners taken by the Allies. About 227 French guns were also captured, 150 by the Allies, the rest by the Prussians. Napoleon's errors in the conduct of the battle were perhaps chiefly these, that he began the battle at too late an hour of the day, that he wasted his cavalry reserves in a reckless manner, and that he neglected to take into account the steadiness with which British infantry are wont to maintain their ground. The Duke of Wellington is sometimes blamed for giving battle with a forest in the rear, which would preclude the pos- sibility of retreat^ but the groundlessness of the objection is apparent to 126 Route 13. MONT ST. JEAN. Battle Field those who are acquainted with the locality, for not only is the Foret de Soignes traversed by good roads in every direction, but it consists of lofty trees growing at considerable intervals and unencumbered by underwood. It is a common point of controversy among historians, whether the victo- rious issue of the battle was mainly attributable to the British or the Prussian troops. The true answer probably is, that the contest would have been a drawn battle but for the timely arrival of the Prussians. It has already been shown how the Allied line successfully baffled the utmost efforts of the French until 7 p.m., and how they gloriously repelled the final and most determined attack of the Imperial Guard about 8 o'clock. The British troops and most of their German contingents, there- fore, unquestionably bore the burden and heat of the day ; they virtually annihilated the flower of the French cavalry, and committed fearful havoc among the veteran Guards, on whom Napoleon had placed his utmost re- liance. At the same time it must be remembered that the first Prussian shots were fired about half-past four, that by half-past six upwards of 15,000 of the French (Lobau's corps, consisting of 6600 infantry and 1000 artillery, with 30 guns ; 12 battalions of the Young Imperial Guard, about 6000 men in all ■, 18 squadrons of cavalry, consisting of nearly 2000 men) were drawn off for the new struggle at Planchenois, and that the loss of the Prussians was enormous for a conflict comparatively so brief, proving how nobly and devotedly they performed their part. Ths Duke of Wel- lington himself, in his despatch descriptive of the battle, says ' that the British army never conducted itself better, that he attributed the success- ful issue of the battle to the cordial and timely assistance of the Prus- sians, that Billow's operation on the enemy's flank was most decisive, and would of itself have forced the enemy to retire, even if he (the Duke) had not been in a situation to make the attack which produced the final result \ The French colonel Charras, in his ' Campagne de 1815 ' (pub. at Brussels, 1858), a work which was long prohibited in France, thus sums up his opinion regarding the battle : ' Wellington par sa tenacite inebranlable , Bliicher par son activite audacieuse, tons les deux par rhabilite et Taccord de leurs manoeuvres ont produit ce resultat \ — The battle is usually named by the Germans after the principal position of the French at Belle Alliance, but is is far more widely known as the Battle of Waterloo, the name given to it by Wellington himself. About halfway to Mont St. Jean , wMcli is about 3 M. from Waterloo, is the monument of Col. Stables, situated behind a farm- house on the right, and not visible from the road. The road to the left leads to Tervueren, a royal chateau, once the property of the Prince of Orange. The royal stud was kept here till 1857, when it was transferred to the old abbey of Gemhloux (p. 198). The road from Waterloo to Mont St. Jean (p. 117] is bordered by an almost uninterrupted succession of houses. At the village, as already remarked, the road to Nivelles diverges to the right from that to Namur. To the right and left, immediately beyond the last houses, are depressions in the ground where the British reserves were stationed. About 2/3 M. beyond the village we next reach a bye-road, which intersects the high-road at a right angle , leading to the left to Wavre, and to the right to Braine I'Alleud. Here, at the corner to the right, once stood an elm, under which the Duke of Wellington is said to have remained during the greater part of the battle. The story, however, is unfounded, as it is well known that the Duke was almost ubiquitous on that memorable occasion. The tree has long since disappeared under the knives of credulous relic-hunters. of Waterloo. LA HAYE SAINTE. 13. Route. 127 On the left, beyond the cross-road, stands an Obelisk (PL i) to the memory of the Hanoverian officers of the German Legion, among whose names that of the gallant Ompteda stands first. Opposite to it rises a Pillar (PL k) to the memory of Colonel Gor- don, hearing a touching inscription. Both these monuments stand on the original level of the ground, which has here heen consider- ably lowered to furnish materials for the mound of the lion. In this neighbourhood Lord Fitzroy Somerset, afterwards Lord Raglan, the Duke's military secretary, lost his arm. About 1/4 M. to the right rises the Mound of the Belgian Lion (PL 1), 200 ft. in height, thrown up on the spot where the Prince of Orange was wounded in the battle. The lion was cast by Cockerill of Liege (p. 219), with the metal of captured French cannon, and is said to weigh 28 tons. The French soldiers, on their march to Antwerp in 1832, hacked off part of the tail, but Marshal Gerard protected the monument from farther injury. The mound commands the best survey of the battle-field, and the traveller who is furnished with the plan and the sketch of the battle, and has consulted the maps at the Hotel du Musee, will here be enabled to form an idea of the progress of the fight. The range of heights which extends past the mound, to Ohain on the E. and to Merbe-Braine on theW., was occupied by the first line of the Allies. As the crest of these heights is but narrow, the second line was enabled to occupy a shel- tered and advantageous position on the N. slopes, concealed from the eye of their enemy. The whole line was about 1^2 M. in length, forming a semicircle corresponding to the form of the hills. The centre lay between the mound and the Hanoverian monument. The chain of heights occupied by the French is 1 M. distant, and separated from the Allied position by a shallow intervening valley, across which the French columns advanced without manoeu- vering, being however invariably driven back. The Allied centre was protected by the farm of La Haye Sainte, situated on the right of the road, about 100 paces from the two monuments. It was defended with heroic courage by a light battalion of the German Legion, commanded by Major v. Baring, whose narrative is ex- tremely interesting. After giving a minute description of the locality and the disposition of his troops, he graphically depicts the furious and repeated assaults suc- cessfully warded off by his little garrison, and his own intense excitement and distress on finding that their stock of ammunition was nearly expended. Then came the terrible catastrophe of the buildings taking fire, which the gallant band succeeded in extinguishing by pouring water on it from their camp-kettles, although not without the sacrifice of several more precious lives. " Many of my men ", he continues, " although covered with wounds, could not be induced to keep back. 'As long as our officers fight, and we can stand "■, was their invariable answer, ' we wonH move from the spot ! ' I should be unjust to the memory of a rifle- man named Frederick Lindau, if I omitted to mention his brave conduct. He had received two severe wounds on the head, and moreover had in his pocket a purseful of gold which he had taken from a French officer. Alike regardless of his wounds and his prize, he stood at a small side- 128 Route 13. HOUGOMONT. Battle Field door of the bam, whence he could command with his rifle the great en- trance in front of him. Seeing that his bandages were insufficient to stop the profuse bleeding from his wounds, I desired him to retire, but he positively refused, saying : ' A craven is he who would desert you as long as his head is on his shoulders ! ' He was, however, afterwards taken prisoner, and of course deprived of his treasure. " He then relates to what extremities they were reduced by the havoc made in the building by the French cannonade, and how at length, when their ammunition was almost exhausted, they perceived two fresh columns marching against them. Again the enemy succeeded in setting the barn on fire, and again it was successfully extinguished in the same manner as before. "Every shot we fired increased my anxiety and distress. I again de- spatched a messenger for aid , saying that I must abandon the defence if not provided with ammunition, — but in vain! As our fusillade diminished , our embarrassment increased. Several voices now ex- claimed : 'We will stand by you most willingly, but we must have the means of defending ourselves I ' Even the officers, who had exhibited the utmost bravery throughout the day, declared the place now untenable. The enemy soon perceived our defenceless condition, and boldly broke open one of the doors. As but few could enter at a time, all who crossed the threshold were bayonetted, and those behind hesitated to encounter the same fate. They therefore clambered over the walls and roofs, whence they could shoot down my poor fellows with impunity. At the same time they thronged in through the open barn, which could no longer be de fended. Indescribably hard as it was for me to yield, yet feelings of humanity now prevailed over those of honour. I therefore ordered my men to retire to the garden at the back. The eff'ort with which these words were wrung from me can only be understood by those who have been in a similar position." " As the passage of the house was very narrow, several of my men were overtaken before they could escape. One of these was the Ensign Frank, who had already been wounded. He ran through with his sabre the first man who attacked him, but the next moment his arm was broken by a bullet. He then contrived to escape into one of the rooms and con- ceal himself behind a bed. Two other men fled into the same room, closely pursued by the French, who exclaimed: '^ Pas de pardon a ces brigands verts!'' and shot them down before his eyes. Most fortunately, however, he remained undiscovered until the house again fell into our hands at a later hour. As I was now convinced that the garden could not possibly be maintained when the enemy was in possession of the house, I ordered the men to retreat singly to the main position of the army. The enemy, probably satisfied with their success, molested us no farther." The door of the house still bears traces of the French bullets. Several of the unfortunate defenders fled into the kitchen, adjoining the garden at the back on the left. The window was and is stiU secured with iron bars, so that all escape was cut off. Several were shot here, and others thrown into the kitchen-well, where their bodies were found after the battle. An iron tablet bears an inscription to the memory of the officers and privates who fell in the defence of the house. Farther to the W. are Papelotte, La Haye, and Smouhen, which served as advanced works of the Allies on their extreme left. They were defended by Nassovians and Netherlanders under Duke Bernhard of Saxe-Weimar, but fell into the hands of the French about half-past 5 o'clock. The defenders of Goumont, or Hougomont, another advanced work of the Allies, situated about V2^I- to the S.W. of the Lion, of Waterloo. HOUGOMONT. 13. Route. 129 were more fortunate. This interesting spot formed the key to the British position, and had Napoleon once gained possession of it, his advantage would have been incalculable. The buildings still bear many traces of the fearful scenes which were enacted here. It is computed that throughout the day the attacks of nearly 12,000 men in all were launched against this miniature fortress, notwithstand- ing which the garrison held out to the last (see below). The French stormed the orchard and garden several times, but they did not succeed in penetrating into the precincts of the build- ings. The latter, moreover, caught fire, adding greatly to the em- barrassment of the defenders, but happily the progress of the flames was arrested. Hougomont was at that time an old, partly dilapidated chateau , to which several outbuildings were attached. The whole was surrounded by a strong wall, in which numerous loop-holes had been made by express orders of the Duke in person, thus forming an admirable though diminutive stronghold. Notwith- standing these advantages, however, its successful defence against the persistent attacks of overwhelming numbers was solely due to the daring intrepidity of the little garrison. The wood by which it was once partly surrounded was almost entirely destroyed by the cannonade. The loop-holes, as well as the marks of the bullets, are still seen, and the place presents a shattered and ruinous aspect to this day. The orchard contains the graves of Capt. Blackman, who fell here, and of Sergt. Cotton, a veteran of Waterloo who died at Mont St. Jean in 1849 (I/2 ^^- is exacted from each visitor to the farm). Hougomont is about 1 M. from Braine I'AUeud (p. 131). Prodigies of valour were performed by the Coldstreams and their auxiliaries at Hougomont, and fortunately with a more successful result than that which attended their heroic German allies at La Haye Sainte. At one critical juncture the French were within a hair's breadth of capturing this fiercely-contested spot. They forced their way up to the principal gate, which was insufficiently barricaded, and rushing against it in dense crowds actually succeeded in bursting it open. A fearful strug- gle ensued. The Guards charged the assailants furiously with their bayonets, whilst Col. Macdonnel, Capt. Wyndham, Ensign Gooch, Ensign Hervey, and Sergt. Graham, by dint of main force and daring courage, contrived to close the gate in the very face of the enemy. — At a later hour a vehement assault was made on the back-gate of the offices, the barricades of which threatened to yield, although crowds of the assailants were swept away by a well-directed fire from the loop-holes. At the same time one of the French shells set fire to the buildings, and the flames burst forth with an ominous glare. Sergt. Graham immediately requested leave of Col. Macdonnel to retire for a moment, which the latter accorded, although not without an expression of surprise. A few moments later the gallant sergeant re-appeared from amidst the blazing ruins, bearing his wounded brother in his arms, deposited him in a place of safety, and at once resumed his work in strengthening the barricades, where the danger was rapidly becoming more and more imminent. Suddenly a French grenadier was seen on the top of the wall, which he and his comrades wei e in the act of scaling. Capt. Wyndham, observing this, shouted to Graham : 'Do you see that fellow?' Graham, thus again interrupted in his work, snatched up his musket, took aim, and shot the Frenchman dead. No others dared to follow, the attack on the gate was abandoned by the enemy, and the danger again successfully averted. Similar attacks were Baedekeb's Belgium and Holland. 12th Edit. 9 120 Route 13. BELLE ALLIANCE. launched against the chateau with unremitting energy from half-past 11 in the morning until nearly 8 in the evening, but were repelled with equal success. Most fortunately for the defenders, their supply of ammu- nition was abundant. Had it been otherwise, Hougomont must inevitably have met with the same fate as La Haye Sainte; Napoleon would then have been enabled to attack the Duke's right flank, and the Allies would most probably have been defeated, or rather virtually annihilated. The neighbourhood of Hougomont is said to have been the scenu of the following well -authenticated anecdote. Colonel Halkett's brigade, consisting of raw levies of troops, most of whom now faced an enemy for the first time, were exposed to a galling fire from Cambronne's brigade, which formed the extreme left of the enemy's line. Halkett sent his skirmishers to meet the vanguard of the French, somewhat in advance of whom Gen. Cambronne himself rode. Cambronnes horse having been shot under him, Halkett immediately perceived that this was an admir- able opportunity for a 'coup de main' calculated to inspire his troops with confidence. He therefore galloped up alone to the French general, threatening him with instantaneous death if he did not surrender. Cam- bronne, taken by surprise, presented his sword and surrendered to the gallant colonel , who at once led him back to the British line. Before reaching it, however, Halkett's horse was struck by a bullet and fell. Whilst struggling to disengage himself, he perceived to his extreme morti- fication that the general was hastening back to his own troops ! By dint of great efforts, however, Halkett got his horse on his legs again, galloped after the general, overtook him, and led him back in triumph to his own line. The fleld-road to Belle Alliance from the gate of the farm skirts the wall to the left. It soon hecomes narrower, and after leading ahout 50 paces to the right passes through a hedge, traverses a field, and passes an embankment. After a walk of 5 min. a good path is reached, leading to the high-road in 12 min. more. Coster's house lies to the right. In a straight direction the road leads to Planchenois (see below). Belle Alliance is situated on the left. This name is applied to a low white house of one story on the road-side, now a poor tavern, 1 M. to the E. of Hougomont. A marble slab over the door bears the inscription : '■Rencontre des gin- iraux Wellington et Blucher lors de la mimorahle bataille dn 18. Juni 1815., se saluant mutueUement vainqueurs\ The statement, however, is erroneous. It is well ascertained that Bliicher did not overtake the Duke until the latter had led his troops as far as La Maison du Roi, or Maison Rouge., on the road to Genappe, about 2 M. beyond Belle Alliance, where he gave the order to halt. This was the scene of the well-known anecdote so often related of the Duke , who when urged not to expose himself unne- cessarily to danger from the fire of the straggling fugitives, replied : 'Let them fire away. The victory is gained, and my life is of no value now!' The house of Belle Alliance was occupied by the French , and their lines were formed adjacent to it. Napoleon's post during the greater part of the battle was a little to the right of the house. On the N. side of Belle Alliance a fleld-road diverges from the high-road, and leads to Plancenoit, or Planchenois, a village situ- ated 1 M. to the S.E., which the traveller who desires to appreciate the important part acted by the Prussians in the battle should not fail to visit. To the left, on a slight eminence near the village, rises the Prussian Monument (PI. m), an iron obelisk with an appropriate inscription in German. It was injured by the French when on their way to the siege of Antwerp in 1832, but has since been restored. NIVELLES. 13. Route. 131 The battle between the French and the brave Prussians raged with the utmost fury at and around Plancenoit from half-past six till nearly nine o'clock. Nine regiments of infantry, a regiment of hussars, and the cavalry of the 4th Corps d'Armee commanded by Prince William of Prussia were engaged in the action, and fiercely contested the possession of the village. The churchyard was the scene of the most sanguinary struggles, in which vast numbers of brave soldiers fell on both sides. The village was captured several times by the Prussians, and again lost; but they finally gained possession of it between 8 and 9 o'clock. The combatants of both armies in this conflict were all comparatively fresh, and the fury with which they fought was intensified by the bitter hostility of the two nations, and a thirst for vengeance on the part of the Prussians for pre- vious reverses. The victory on this part of the field was therefore achiev- ed towards 8 o'clock , and the defeat of the French was rendered doubly disastrous by the spirited and well-organised pursuit of Gneisenau. The French retreat , which soon became a disorderly sauve qui pent, followed the road to Genappe (p. 186), a village about 4 M. to the S. of Plancenoit. Near Genappe, where the road was blocked with cannon and waggons, the Prussians captured Napoleon's travelling carriage, which the emperor had probably just quitted in precipitate haste, as it still contained his hat and sword. Continuation of Rail-^-ay Journey. The next station 'beyond Waterloo is (12 M. from Brussels) Braine I'Alleud , Flem. Eigen- Brakel (Hotel du Midi ; H. de VEtoile), a manufacturing town with 6600 inhab., whence the mound of the lion (p. 127) on the field of Waterloo, which is visible to the left, is 1 1/2 M. distant. The road to it leads directly N. from the station. Branch-line to Tubize, see p. 182. 151/2 M. Lillois. iSM.Baulers, a suburb ofNivelles, is the junction of the Manage and Wavre line (p. 186). I81/2M. Nivelles (Hotel du Mouton Blanc), Flem. Nyvel, on the Thines, a manufacturing town with 10,000 inhab., owes its origin to a convent founded here about the middle of the 7th cent, by Ida, wife of Pepin of Landen. The Romanesque church of the convent, built in the 11th cent., still exists, but the interior suffered de- facement in the 18th cent., though the crypt and the badly restored cloisters still remain purely Romanesque. The tower, one of the loftiest in Belgium, was restored in 1859, after a fire, with little success. On the high-altar is the beautiful 13th cent, reliquary of St. Gertrude (daughter of Pepin), to whom the church is dedicated ; and among the many interesting objects in the treasury is the saint's crystal goblet with enamelled foot. The station is called Nivelles- Est , and lies at some distance from the town (Nivelles- Nor d , see p. 186). The Baulers-Fleurus-Chdtelineau line diverges at Nivelles-Est : 19 M., in 1-11/4 hr. (fares 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 80, 1 fr. 20 c). Fleurus, see p. 208. 23 M. Obaix-Buzet ; 25^/2 M. Luttre , the junction of a line to Jumet (Charleroi , Chatelineau) and to Pieton (p. 185) , via Tra- zegnies. Our line here unites with the Ghent and Braine-le-Comte railway, which proceeds, via (29 M.) Gosselies, (30 M.) Roux, and (33 M.) Marchiennes-au-Pont, to — 35 M. Charleroi, see p. 187. 132 14. From Brussels to Antwerp vi^ Malines. 271/2 M. Railway to Malines in 22-49 min. (fares 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 20, 80 c.); to Antwerp in 3/4-11/2117. (fares 3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 50, 1 fr. 70 c). Ex- press-fares one-fourth higher. The train starts from tlie Station du Nord (p. 70). Travellers starting from the Station du Quartier Leopold change carriages at (2 M.) Schaerbeek (p. 200). A fertile and grassy plain, through which the Senne winds, is traversed. — 41/2 M. Earen (Nord, comp. p. 200). 674 M. Vilvorde, a small town on the Senne, one of the most ancient in Brabant, with the military penitentiary. A melancholy interest attaches to Vilvorde as the scene of the martyr- dom of William Ttndale, the zealous English Reformer and trans- lator of the Bible. He was compelled to leave England on account of his heretical doctrines in 1523, and the same year he completed his translation of the New Testament from the Greek. He then began to publish it at Cologne, but was soon interrupted by his Romish antagonists, to escape from whom he fled to Worms, where the publication was completed in 1525. Copies soon found their way to England, where prohibitions were issued against them, in consequence of which most of them were burnt. ' They have done no other thing than I looked for \ observed the pious translator, on hearing of this; 'no more shall they do, if they burn me also I' Notwithstanding the vehement opposition of Archbp. Warham, Card. Wolsey, and Sir Thomas More (who vainly strove to refute the new doctrine in a work of 7 vols.), four new editions rapidly found their way to England. In 1529 Tj'ndale began to publish the first four books of the Old Testament at Antwerp , where he now acted as chaplain to the British merchants settled in that city. He was at length arrested through the treachery of a spy, and sent to Vilvorde, where he was imprisoned for two years. He was then tried, and condemned as a heretic. On 6th Oct., 1536, he was chained to the stake, strangled, and finally burnt to ashes. His last words were: 'Lord, open the King of England's eyes!' He was a man of simple and winning manners, indefatigable industry, and fervent piety. His New Testament, which was translated indepen- dently of his illustrious predecessor Wycliflfe , and his still more cele- brated contemporary Luther, forms the basis of the Authorised Version. It is a remarkable fact, that the year after his martyrdom the Bible was published throughout England by royal command, and appointed to be placed in every church for the use of the people. "We catch a distant view here, on the right, of the village of Perck (3 M. from the railway), near which is the farm-house of Dry Toren, once the country-seat of David Teniers the Younger (d. 1690 ; buried in the church of Perck). Near (8 M.) Eppeghem, to the E., but scarcely visible from the railway, stands the old chateau of Steen, purchased for 93,000 florins by Rubens in 1635 as a summer-resort. — 10 M. Weerde. The huge tower of the cathedral of Malines now becomes con- spicuous in the distance. The train crosses the Louvain Canal. 13 M. Malines. — Hotels. Hotel de la Station, at the station; Hotel de la Codpe, near the cathedral (PI. C, 3); Hotel Bdda, opposite the cathedral tower, R., L.. & A. 2V-j-3, B. 1, I). 21/2 fr. ; Hotel de la Couk DE Beffer, Rue de Beff'er 86, near the Grande Place, with cafe-restaurant, R., L., & A. 2, B. 3/4, dej. 1, D. 2, pens. 5 fr. •, Cheval d'Ok, Rue des Beguines 2, near the cathedral. — Caf4 des Arts, Bruel. — *Restaurant at the station. l.Jrchereehe l^ithene'eBaval Eglises: 3. du Gr.Seffumage i.CaAetirale 'S^ Scimlmia o.S^Catherine 6.SfJean . l.SmreDanMtm deia d.lJ)yle B.*. I 17 . dar TinUariU 8 dJSujiSKxk C 5 9 $ Tierret-S-FcaU D 3 r. 2. I Hospices (•.4'.; w axil ! i'2. miHudre CD. 2 B.2.i \Z . Xatre Dcane D.3 C.3.! \A . d'OIzrsten ■ A.2 C.2.' Vb . des Cmiples mari&s B.C. 5 C.3.J Va S^'Sedirige B.4 : j D I m. Hotel de-raie C.3. B.+ l I9.jfo7tf df ?icW CD. 3. ZO.JUmian.deJIarg.d'Autriehje C,3. Zl. Schepenhidji'JjthtTes,. C.3. 22 . £ureau de Bienfaisance. B . 3 . I'i . SeTitcuare anJaJpisaipaL . C.3. H. Theatre . . .D.3. Ih.TalatideJiixUce . D.3.*. 'I MALINES. 14. Route. 133 A visit to the Cathedral and the paintings by Uiibens in the churches of St. Jean and Notre Dame may he accomplished in 2-3 hrs. The ancient town of Malines, Flem. Mechelen (54,000 inhab.), situated on the tidal river Dyle , which flows through the town in numerous arms and is crossed by 35 bridges, is the seat of a cardinal- archbishop, the primate of Belgium. Notwithstanding its broad and regular streets, handsome squares, and fine buildings, it is a dull place, and totally destitute of the brisk traffic which enlivens most of the principal Belgian towns. The quietness of the town forms a strong contrast to the busy scene at the station, which possesses extensive railway-workshops and is the focus of several of the most important railways in Belgium (Liege - Ostend, Antwerp - Brussels, Malines- Saint-Nicolas). From the station, we follow the broad .Rwe Conscience bearing to the right, traverse the Place d'Egmont and cross the Dyle. Beside the bridge, to the right, are the Athenee (PL 2; C, 4, 5) and the fine Botanical Garden (adm. 1/2 ^r.), adorned with a statue of Do- donaeus , the botanist, born at Malines in 1517. We proceed in the same direction through the Bruelstraat, leading to the Grande Place (PL G, 3), where a poor statue (PL 20) by Tuerlinckx of Malines was erected in 1849 to Margaret of Austria (d. 1530), daughter of Maximilian L and Mary of Burgundy (p. xvii), celebrat- ed as regent of the Netherlands and instructress of Charles V. The circle described on the ground round the monument indicates the size of the cathedral clock (see below). — Opposite is the old Cloth Hall (PL 10), begun in 1340, with an uncompleted belfry bearing a superstructure of the 16th century. The Interesting corner-house to the left originally formed part of this building. The Hotel de Ville (PL 18), in front of the cathedral, was entirely remodelled in the 18th century. Opposite this building, anu standing a little way back from the Place, is a late- Gothic build- ing of 1374 called the ^ Schepenen-Huis' (or house of the bailiffs), with the inscription ^Musee' (PL 21 ; C, 3) , containing a collection of civic antiquities, reminiscences of Margaret of Austria, a few pictures (including a small Crucifixion by Rubens), etc. (The con- cierge lives in the market-place. No. 2, in the house next door to the Hotel de VUle ; fee 1/2 fr-)- The *Cathedral of St. Rombold [St. Rombaut, PL 4 ; closed from 12 to 2.30, and after 5.30 p.m.), begun at the end of the 12th cent., completed in 1312, but to a great extent rebuilt, after a fire in 1342, in the 14th and 15th centuries, is a cruciform Gothic church with a richly- decorated choir and a huge unfinished W. tower (324 ft. in height; projected height 460 ft.). The face of the clock on the tower is 49 ft. in diameter. The church was almost entirely erected with money paid by the pilgrims who flocked hither in the 14th and 15th centuries to obtain the indulgences issued by Pope Nicholas V. On the increase of the hierarchy of the Netherlands 134 Route 14. MALINES. Cathedral. in 1559 [p. xvii), the Cathedral of St. Rombold was raised by Pope Paul IV. to the dignity of being the archiepiscopal metropolitan church. The first archbishop was Antoine Perenot de Granvella, the minister of Margaret of Parma, who was shortly afterwards created a cardinal. The church is undergoing a thorough restoration, now almost completed. The Interior has an area of 4650 sq. yds. ; its length is 306 ft. ; the nave is 89 ft. high and 40 ft. wide. — In the S. transept: *Altar-piece by Van Dyck, representing the Crucifixion, painted in 1627, and successfully cleaned in 1848 (covered). This is one of the finest of the master's works , and is worthy of the most careful inspection. The composition is extensive and skilfully arranged; the profound grief and resignation depicted in the countenance of the Virgin are particularly well expressed. — In the N, [1.) tran- sept: Erasmus Quellin, Adoration of the Shepherds. — In the N. aisle , 1st chapel on the left (reckoned from the chief entrance), Wouters, Last Supper ; opposite is a monument in marble to Arch- bishop Mean (d. 1831), who is represented kneeling before the Angel of Death, executed by Jehotte^ a sculptor of Liege. — In the S. aisle : twenty-five scenes from the history of St. Rombold, ex- tending from his appointment to the office of bishop down to his martyrdom and the miracles wrought by his relics (Flemish school of the 15th cent., restored in 1857). — The Pulpit, carved in wood, like those in the principal Belgian churches , by Boeckstuyns of Malines , represents the Conversion of St. Paul. Above, St. John and the women at the foot of the Cross ; at the side , Adam and Eve and the serpent. By the pillars are statues of the Apostles (17th cent.). Elaborately carved organ-choir. — The large modern stained-glass windows in the transept were executed to commemo- rate the promulgation of the dogma of the immaculate conception of the Virgin (1854), by J. F. and L. Pluys of Malines. — The Choir contains handsome modern stained glass, carved stalls in the Gothic style, and a baroque altar. To the left in the retro-choir, near the N. portal, high up, is a Circumcision by M. Coxie, 1587. Farther on are a number of large pictures, chiefly by Herreyns and other painters of the early part of the present century, represent- ing scenes from the life of St. Rombold. In the second chapel to the left the arms of the knights of the Golden Fleece, who held a chapter here in 1491. The first chapel to the right of the high-altar contains the altar of St. Engelbert, Bishop of Cologne, with a chased brazen antependium or frontal, executed from Mingwiy''s designs by L. van Ryswyck of Antwerp (1875). The choir and ambulatory also contain several monuments of bishops of the 16th and 17th cent., and modern stained-glass windows with full-length figures of saints. The picturesque Archiepiscopal Palace (PI. 1 ; C, 2), dating from the end of the 16th cent., has been allowed to fall into a state of disrepair. The valuable Archives are rarely shown. Tribunal. MALINES. 14. Route. 135 St. Jean (PL 6 ; C, 3), near tlie Cathedral , is an insignificant church, but contains an interesting picture hy Rubens, a *High-altar- piece with wings, a large and fine composition, one of the best of the painter's ceremonial works. On the inside of the wings: Behead- ing of John the Baptist, and Martyrdom of St. John in a cauldron of boiling oil. Outside: Baptism of Christ, and St. John in the island of Patmos, writing the Apocalypse. The two latter are in the best style of the master, who received 1800 florins for them. Below is a small Crucifixion , probably also by Rubens. To the left in the choir is Christ on the Cross , by Ch. Wouters, 18G0. In the chapel on the left, Christ and the disciples at Emmaus , by Her- reyns. The pulpit in carved wood, by Verhaeghen, represents the Good Shepherd. The confessionals, the carved wood on the organ, and several other pieces of carving are by the same sculptor. The sacristan (V2-I fr.) lives in the Rue Stassart No. 4, near the church. The Mont de Piete, Rue des Vaches 67 and Rue St. Jean 2 [PI. C, D, 2, 3), formerly the house of Canon Busleyden, is an interesting Gothic building of the 16th cent. , with gables , fine arcades, and a tower of brick and limestone (1507), restored in 1875. In the N. quarters of the town are situated the church of St. Cath- arine (PI. 5; C, 2), with a damaged altar-piece by Rubens, and the church of the Grand Biguinage (PL 3; B, 2), rebuilt 1629-47, containing pictures by L. Franchoys, Moreels, De Crayer, Th. Boeyer- mans, E. Quellin, and others ; the latter is also embellished with sculptures by L. Fayd'herbe and Duquesnoy. The church of St. Peter and St. Paul (PL 9 ; D, 3), built in 1669-76 and formerly belonging to the Jesuits, contains pictures by Boeyermans, P. Ykens, and others, and sculptures by Verbruggen (pulpit) and J. Geefs (apostles). The *TRrBUNAL(P1.25 ; D, 3, 4), or court of justice, consists of a picturesque assemblage of buildings, enclosing several courts, and was formerly the palace of Margaret of Austria. The older portions were erected by Rombout Kelderinans of Malines in the late-Gothic style. The more modern portion, erected by Keldermans about 1617, along with the French artist Ouyot de Beaugrant (p. 26), is the earliest example of the Renaissance in Belgium. The building has been skilfully restored by Blomme of Antwerp, and contains some fine chimney-pieces and other interesting works of art. On our way back to the station we may visit the late-Gothic church of Notre Dame (PL 7 ; B, 4), recently restored. The choir dates from 1500-1646, the chapels from 1530-40, and the transept from 1545. A chapel behind the high-altar contains Rubens' s *Miraculous Draught of Fishes, a richly-coloured picture, with wings, painted in 1618 for the Guild of Fishers , from whom the master received 1600 florins for the work (about 90i.). On one of the wings is Tobias, on the other St. Peter finding the money in the fish's mouth ; outside are SS. Peter, Andrew, James, and John. In the 3rd 136 Route 14. MALTNES. cTiapel of tlie retro-choir is the Temptation of St. Antony by M. Coxie; high-altar-piece, a Last Supper by E. Quellin; pulpit and statues by O. Kerricx; Elevation of the Cross (relief), by L. FaycC- herbe. The sacristan will be found at No. 36 Rue des Lepreux, the street opposite the chief portal. — The neighbouring double- towered Porte de Bruxelles ('Overste Poort'; PI. A, 4) is the solitary relic of the ancient fortifications. On the Quai au Sel (PI. B, 4) are several interesting houses of the 16th century. Among the most interesting of these are the Salm Inn (No. 5), with a Renaissance facade (1530-34; see p. xliii), embellished with columns and arches, and a timber house near it (No. 17), with exquisite details in the Franco-Flemish style and also dating from the 16th century. Between these are two other interesting old timber-houses (Nos. 7 and 8). — The Maison des Archers, in the Place de Bailies de Fer (PI. B,3), is another quaint building. — There is also an interesting timber-house on the Quai aux Avoines (No. 23; PI. B, 3). The church of Notre Dame d'Hanswyck (PI. 8 ; C, 5) contains two large reliefs by L. Fayd'herbe and a pulpit by Verhaeghen. Steam- Team WATS from Malines via {li^/zM.) Hey st-op-den- Berg to (14 M.) Jteghem, and to (18 M.) Wesimeerbeek and (23 M.) Westerloo (p. 178), in IV2 and IV2-3V2 hrs. (fares 1 fr. 35, 95 c.)- From Malines to Louvain, 151/2 M., railway in 25-40 min. (fares 1 fr. 70, 1 fr. 35, 90 c.). — The church of (51/2M.) Boortmeerbeek contains an altar- piece by Teniers the Younger. Then (71/2 M.) Haecht and (81/2 M.) Wes- pelaer^ with a country-seat and park mentioned by Delille (b. 1738). I272M. Wt/gmael, with a starch-factory. The line crosses the Bi/le , skirts the Antwerp-Louvain Canal (made in 1750), and reaches Louvain (p. 203). Feom Malines to Ghent, 35 M., railway in I-I3/4 hr. (fares 4 fr. 45, 3 fr. 25, 2 fr. 20 c). The line crosses the Louvain Canal and the Senne. 2 M. Eombeeck; 5V2 M. Cappelle-au-Bois ; 8 M. Londerzeel , the junction of the Antwerp and Alost line (p. 11). Beyond (11 31.) Malderen, we quit Brabant and enter Flanders. I2V2 M. Buggenhout; 15 M. Baesrode. 17 M. Dendei-monde, and thence to (38 M.) Ghent, see R. 10. Feom Malines to St. Nicolas and Ternedzen , 42 M. , railway in 2-31/4 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 15, 3 fr. 70, 2 fr. 55 c). 2 M. Hombeeck; 6 M. Thisselt; 8 M. Willebroeck. on a canal connecting the Senne with the Rupel, the junction of the Antwerp and Alost line (p. 11); 11 M. Piiurs (branch to Dendermonde, p.63); l^M. Bornhem. The train crosses the broad Schelde, commanding a view of its picturesque wooded banks. To the left, on the left bank, is (16 M.) Tamise, a manufacturing town with 11,500 in- habitants. The church contains some interesting works of art. 21 M. SI. Nicolas, the junction of the Waasland line for Ghent and Antwerp (p.63) and of a branch-line to Dendermonde (p. 63); 25 M. St. Gilles-Waes (branch-line to Moerbeke, p. 10); 27 M. La Clinge, with the Belgian custom- house. — 291/2 M. Hulst (Het Bonte Bert; Wapens van Zeeland), the Dutch frontier-station, possesses an interesting Gothic church of the 15th cent. ; the Landshuis contains a painting by Jordaens and the Hotel de Ville one by Corn, de Vos. — 35 M. Axel; 39 M. Slui/skil; 42 M. Terneuzen (see p. 10). Soon after quitting Malines, the train crosses the Nethe and reaches (18 M.) Duffel. To the right rises the old Gothic chateau of Ter-Elst. Then (2OV2 M.) stat. Contich. From Contich to Turnhout, 26V2 M., branch-railway in I'/zhr. — Sta- tions: Linih, Lierre (p. 178), junction for Antwerp, Diest, and Hasselt ANTWERP. 1-5. Route. 1 37 (p. 179); Nylen. Bonwel, Herenthals, the junction for Roermond (p. 182) and Louvain (p. 203); Licfitaert, T/nelen, and lastly Turnhout, the chief town of the district, with 19,500 inhab., a prosperous place, with clolh and other factories, and a leech -breeding establishment. The old Chdteau of the Dukea of Brabant now serves as a court of justice and a prison. In the church of Oud-Turnhout is a Madonna and saints by De Crayer. Steam- tramways run from Turnhout to the W. to Antwerp (comp. p. 139) via Oostmalle, whence a branch diverges to Hoogstraeten (p. 175), and to the E. to (972 M.) Arendonck. — Beyond Turnhout the line crosses the Dutch frontier to Tilburg (see p. 385). Another branch-line runs from Contich to Boom, on the line from Alost to Antwerp (p. 11). From (24 M.) Oude-God (Vieux-Dieu) branch-lines diverge to Boom (p. 63) and to Hoboken (p. 11). We novv^ pass througli the new outworks around Antwerp. 261/2 M. Berchem, the headquarters of the French during the siege of the citadel in 1832. 271/2 M. Antwerp, see below. 15. Antwerp. Railway Stations. The Principal Station (Station de TEtat; PI. D, 3, 4), for Malines (Brussels, Louvain, etc.), Dendermonde-Ghent, Hasselt-Maast- richt, Roermonde-Gladbach , Turnhout - Tilburg, Roosendaal, Flushing, Rotterdam, and Ghent, is near the Zoological Garden. — The South Station (PI. A, B, 6) is used only by the trains of the Antwerp-Alost (p. 11) and the Lierre-Turnhout (see above) lines. — The station of the Waasland line to Ghent (PI. A, 4; R. 10) is on the left bank of the Schelde, but there is a ticket and luggage office on the Quai St. Michel (PI. A, 5), on the right bank; tickets taken here include the ferry across the river. — The Zuren- horg Station (PI. F, 5) is the starting-point of the steam-tramways to Sant- hoven, Lierre, Hoogstraeten, and Turnhout. Hotels. *St. Antoine (PI. a; B, 4), Place Verte 40, *Gkand Hotel (PI. G, 4), Rue Gerard 2, both with lifts and similar charges : R. from 3, L. 1, A. 1, B. l'/2, dej. 31/2, D. 5, pens. 121/2-15 fr. ; *H6tel de l^Europe (PI. b; B, 4), Place Verte 38, R. 3-8, A. 1, B. I'/z, dej. 3, D. 4. pens. 11-14, omn. 1 fr. ; *Grand Laboueeuk (PI. d ; C, 4), Place de Meir 26, R., L., & A. from 3, B. IV2, dej. IV2, 1>. 4, pens, from 10, omn. 1 fr. ; all these fre- quented by the English; *Grand Miroir (PI. f; B, 4) , Vieux Marche au Ble 56 & 58, R., L., & A. from 3, B. I1/4, dej. 2, D. 3, pens, from 8 fr.; Hotel de la Paix (PI. t; B, 4), Rue des Menuisiers 9, R., L., &, A. S'/z, B. 11/4, dej. 21/2, D. 3, bmn. 1 fr. — "Coukriek (PI. h; B, 4), Rempart du Lombard' 52, R., L., & A. 3, B. 11/4, dej. 21/2, D. 3, pens. 8V2, omn. 1 fr. ; des Flandres (PI. e; B, 4), Place Verte 9; du Commerce (PI. g; C, 3), Rue de la Bourse 8, R., L., & A. 21/2-3, B. 1. dej. 2, D. 21/2, pens. 71/2 fr., com- mercial ; Rose d'Or, Pont aux Tourbes 3 (PI. B, 3), plain; Fleur d'Or, Ruelle des Moines 1, near the Place Verte, unpretending. — On the Schelde: Queen's Hotel, Quai Van Dyck 14 (PI. B, 3), fine view of the river, R., L., & A. 4-6, B. 11/4, dej. 21/2, D. 81/2 fr. ; d'Angleteree, Quai Van Dyck 12 (PI. B, 3, 4). In the vicinitv : de Hollande (PI. 1; B, 4), Rue de FEtuve 2, R., L., & A. 3-4, B. 11/4, dej. 2, D. 31/2 fr. — Near the Principal Station: PscHORR, Avenue DeKeyzerT; Hotel de Londees, Avenue de Keyzer64; Weber, Avenue De KeyVer 45, R., L., & A. from 2 fr., with good restau- rant ; Hot. -Restaurant St. .Iean, Avenue De Keyzer 21, R. from 3, B. 1, dej. 21/2, D. 3-5 fr.; Trois Suisses, Rue Anneessens 30, B., L.. & A. 2-3, B. 1, d^j. 2 fr. ; Ville de Feancfort, Rue de la Station 13, unpretending. Cafes. Cafi de VEmperevr, Place de Meir 19 ; Canterbury , Place de Meir 14; Aeckerlin, Place de Meir 13; Frangais, Suisse, both Place Vevte; Orand Comptoir de la Bourse, corner of the Longue Rue Neuve and the Rue de la Bourse; Milk Colonnes, Avenue De Keyzer 1. On each of the 138 Route 15. ANTWERP. Tramways. two Promenoips (PI. B., 3, 4; p. 173) is a Ca/d, with fine view of the Schelde. — Confectioners: Lens, Rue des Tanneurs 16; Locus-Broekari, Pont de Meir 3; Patisserie Meurisse, Marche atix Oenfs 50. Restaurants. '^ Bertrand , Place de Meir 11, D. from 5 fr., cheapest wine 4 fr. a bottle; 'Rocher de Cancale, Rue des Dciuze Mois 19, adjoining the Exchange and the Place de Meir; 'Taverm Rheingau. Place de Meir 1, good hock and moselle; Taverne MUropole, Rue des Tanneurs, near the Place de Meir. — Taverne Crets^ corner of Place Verte and Rue Xationale; Hdtel de Londres (see above); "Taverne St. Jean^ Criterium Restaurant^ Av- enue De Keyzer 21 and 17 ; Cheval de Bronze. Marche aux Oeufs 81 ; Taverne Alsacienne, Place Verte 3. — Beer. Pschorr^ Weber, Avenue De Key/.er 7 and ^5 (see above); Ce?iiral-Bierhalle, Courte Rue Neuve 46, with a garden ; Salvator-KeUer, Vieux Marche au Ble 26; Ca/4 Shakspeare, Quai Leopold 15; Flora., Rue Anneessens 26; Trois Suisses. see above. Near the railway- station are several houses where Pale Ale and Stout may be obtained on draught, with bread and cheese, etc.: Queen Tavern, Royal, Worthington Tavern, Rue Anneessens, Nos. 31, 21, 19; etc. — Wine. Moselhduschen, Rempart Catherine 74, near the W. end of the Place de Meir, excellent moselle; Zur Mesel, Rue des Douze Mois 16, near the Exchange; Cafi Aeckerlin (see above): Continental Bodega, Place de Meir 17; Vigna (Italian wines), Place de Meir 15; Caves Anglaises, Marche aus Souliers 18, etc. Baths. Bains St. Pierre, Rue Van Noort 12, near the Park ; Bain Central, Petit-Marche 13 (PI. B, 4). Warm and cold baths may also he obtained in the best hotels. — Swimming Bath (PI. B, 7), at the corner of the Rue de Bruxelles and the Rue Brederode, open from April 15th to October 15th (for ladies on Mon. and Frid. before 12, and on Wed. from 2 o'clock). Post Office, Place Verte, S. side (PI. B, 4), open 6.45 a.m. till 7.45 p.m. (on Sun. 6.45 a.m. till 12.45 p.m.); several branch-office?. — Telegraph Offices, Rue des Douze-Mois (PI. C, 3, 4), on the S. side of the Exchange, and at the railway-station (open at night). — Public Telephones in the waiting-rooms of the tramways and in several restaurants (use for 5 min., 25 c. ; communication with Brussels, 1 fr. ; with Paris, 3 fr. Intelligence Bureau for strangers, '•Ligue Anvers en avanf., Marche St. Jacques 47bis (Pi. c, 3). Cabs (Voitures). Closed Cabs Open Cabs Per Drive within the 8 municipal districts By day at night (with the exception of the Digue, a part of the seventh district) {J"J P^J^' 1.- 1.50 1.50 1.50 —.75 2.- 1.- 2.- 2.50 2.50 2.50 1.25 3.— 1.50 By day at night 1.50 2.50 2.- 3.- 2.- 8.- 2.50 3.50 1.- 1.50 2.50 3.- 1- 1.50 Per Dtnve within the fortitications : 1-4 pers. By Time, 1-4 pers. per hr „ „ Each additional 1/2 hr „ „ within the fortifications . „ „ Each additional 1/2 hr Each trunk 20 c. — Two-horse vehicles one-half more. Tramways (comp. the Plan; fares 10-25 c). 1. From the Quai Van Dyck (PI. B, 3) by the Place Verte and Place de Meir, to the Principal Station (PL D, 3, 4), and then by the Boulevard Leopold to the Druhoek (Trois Coins), near the Pepiniere (PI. D, 6). 2. From the Harbour (Entrepot Royal; PL C, 2) through the Avenues du Commerce, des Arts, de Llndustrie, "and du Sud to the end of the latter (PL B, 6). — A branch-line diverges from the Avenue de V Industrie to the ferry for the Waasland Station (PL A, 5). 3. -Tramway Maritime': from the Place Gillis (PL A, 6) on the S. harbour along the Schelde to the N. harbour, by the <:2uais Flamand, St. Michel, Plantin, Van Dyck, Jordaens, the Canal des Brasseurs, the Place de TEntrepot. Avenue du Commerce, Rue Vondel, and Rue Basse to the Rue Pothoek (PL E, 2; near the Hospital of Stuivenberg). 4. From the Place St. Paul (PL B, 3) by the streets Canal des Re- collets, Rue des Tanneurs, Rue de LHopital, and Chaussee de Malines to the fortifications at Berchem (PL E, 7). Steamboats. ANTWERP. 15. Route. 139 5. From the Quai St. Jean (PI. B, 4) by the Rue du Couvent, Rue des Peintres (PI. B, 5), Rue Anselmo, Rue Lozane to the Dryhoek (see above) and the Route de Wilryck (PI. D, 8j. 6. 'Tramway du Sud d'Anvers' from the Place Verte (PI. B, 4) through the Rue des Peignes, the Rue Gerard, the Avenue du Sud, and the Rue Montigny to Kiel and Hohoken (p. 11). 7. From the Rue Kipdorp (PI. B, C, 3) by the Place de la Commune (PI. C, D, 3), the Rue Carmit and Chaussee de Turnhout to the fortifications at Borgerhout (PI. F, 3; near the Porte de Turnhont). 8. From the Place de Meir (PI. C, 4) through the Rue des Tanneurs, Rue Le'opold, and the Longue Rue d'Argile to the Rue van Luppen (PI. E,5). 9. 'Tramv^ay du Nord d'Anvers' from the Rue Klapdorp (PI. B, 3) by the jMarche aux Chevaux and the Rue Viadue (PI. D, 1) to Merxem. 10. 'Tramway-Omnibna' ('Tr. deraillable' with five wheels) : from the Bassins (Plaine van Schoonbeke ; PI. B, 2) by the Rue des Aveugles (PI. C, 3), Place de Meir, Avenue Van Eyck (PI. C, D, 5) and Place Loos to the Station Zurenhorg (PI. F, 5). Steam Tramways. 1. From Zurenhorg station (PI. F, 5) to Turnhout (p. 137) and Hoogstratten (p. 175). The station at Zurenhorg may be conveniently reached by the tramway-omnibus No. 10, and the Porte de Turnhout, where the steam-tramway stops, by the line No. 7. — 2. From Zurenhorg station (PI. F, 5) to Broechem and Lier (p. 178). — 3. From Klapdorp station (PI. B, 3) via Merxem, Santvliet, and Lillo, to Bergen-op-Zoom (p. 252) and Tholen (p. 177). — 4. From Klapdorp station (PI. B, 3) via Merxem to Schooten and via Brasschaet (p. 175) to Breda (p. 385). Steamboats. To and from London: vessels of the Gen. Steam Nav. Co. (fares IBs., lis.) twice, and the Baron Osy (fares 20s., 12s.) once weekly ; average passage 18 hrs. — To Harwich by the vessels of the Great Eastern Railway. Co. daily, except Sun., in 11-13 hrs., thence by railway to London in 13/4 hrs. (fares to London 26s., 15s.). — To Hull on Wed. and Sat., in 22 hrs. (fares 15s., 10s.). — To Glasgow once weekly (fares 25s., 15s.). — To Goole every Wed. and Sat. in 24 hrs. (fare 15s.). — To Grimsby every Tues., Thurs., and Sat. in 30 hrs. (fares 15s., 7s. 6d). — To Neiocastle every Wed. in 30 hrs. (fares 22s. 6d., lis. 6f?.). — To Leith once weekly in 33 hrs. (fare 2^.). — To Hamburg once weekly in 35 hrs. (fares 40 fr., 35 fr.). — To Dublin and Belfast once a fortnight (fare 15s.). — To Liverpool twice weekly (fares 22s. 6d., 15?. )• — To Rotterdam..^ see p. 176. — A pleasant steamboat trip on the Sehelde may be made to Rupelmonde, Boom (railway also to this point, 10 M. ; comp. p. 137), and Temsche , starting (daily in summer) from the •Embarcadere'' (PI. B, 3) ; return-fare IV2 or 1 fr. — Excursion steamers ply on the Sehelde in summer every afternoon, starting from the 'Embarcadere' by the Canal au Sucre (PI. B, 3). Theatres. TMdtre Royal (PI. C, 4), performances in French, four times a week in winter. — Flemish Theatre., or Nederlandsche Schouwburg (PI. 0,3; p. 170), performances in Flemish. — Scala., Rue Anneessens 28 (PI. D, 3), varieties and operettas. Music. In summer, if the weather is favourable, bands perform in the Park (p. 171) on Sun. at 4 and on Tues. evenings; in the P^pini^re (p. 172 on Mon. and Fr., 8-10 p.m.; in the Place Verte (p. 143) on Wed. and Sat., 8-10 p.m. •, and in the Place St. Jean (PI. C, 2) on Mon. and Thurs., 8-10 p.m. — Symphony Concerts in winter on Sun. at 12.30 p.m., at ih.& Athinie Royal (PI. D, 3), Place de la Commune (2 and 1 fr.). Panorama. Battle of Woerth, by Alfred Cluysenaar, entrance from the Rue de la Charrue or the Zoological Garden (p. 172). Adm. 50 c, on Sun. and holidays 25 c. British Consul, G. R. Perry, Esq., Consul General. — United States Consul, Harvey Johnson, Esq. ; deputy-consul, Louis Hess, Esq. English Church in the Rue des Tanneurs ; services at 11 and 7, Chaplain, Rev. A. Stanley. Shops. Booksellers. 0. Forst, Place de Meir 69; M. RUf, Place de ^40 Route 15. ANTWERP. Collections. Meir 87-, Ackermann, Place Verte29. — Photographs. 0. Forst, see above; Zazzanni d- Co., Marche aux Souliers 37; Thirion, Place Verte 17, adjoin- ing the cathedral. — Lace. /. Siappens, Place Verte 6. — Travelling Requisites, Carlier, Marche' aux Souliers 10 & 22. — Monet Changers : Baelde Fr^res, Canal des Recollets (PI. B, 3j ; Boucquillon & Waterkeyn, Marche au Lait 23: /. A. Servais, Place de Bleir 51. Collections, etc. Commercial Museum (p. 166), daily 10-2, free. Exchange (p. 166), always open; during business hours (1-3) admission to the galleries only. Hdtel de Ville (p. 148), open all day ; inspection most convenient before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. Fee 1 fr. Library (p. 166), Mon. to Frid. 9-4, Sat. and Sun. 9-12. Museum (p. 153), daily 9-5 (Oct.-April 9-4), 1 fr., Thurs., Sun., and holidays free. Mus^e Plantin (p. 151), daily 10-4, 1 fr., Thurs., Sun., and holidays free. Steen (p. 173), daily 10-4, Ifr. ; Thurs., Sun., and holidays free. Zoological Garden (p. 172), daily until 7 p.m., 1 fr. The Churches (comp. p. xv) are generally open 6-12 and 4-5, the Cathedral (p. 143) and Jesuits' Church (p. 166) the whole day. The follow- ing particulars should be noticed. Cathedral (p. 143), open for the in' ^-C'"-"'".?"^ ^_ "1 ,/"> ° '^ ^''- ,° <'' '^ Caserne^ X % ^-^ " »*' X ; '-;^„, ,%> A.N,VEBS *i "--^ 1^ "■-..^''>4r- - ■* ,i^ i %% W PARTIE CESTRALE i Cathedral. ANTWERP. 15. Route. 145 Rubens generously determined to produce a far more noble work by repre- senting the 'bearing of Christ' allegorically, viz. in the principal picture Christ borne by his friends, in one wing by his Virgin mother before the Nativity, and in the other by the aged Simeon in the Temple. The picture was finished and shown to the Arquebusiers, who could not fail to be grati- fied by its magnificence; but the allegorical mode of its execution was entirely lost upon them, and they complained that there was no St. Chris- topher. In order to satisfy them, Rubens then proceeded to paint St. Chris- topher in person on the outside of one shutter, while on the other he represented a hermit with a lantern, and an owl, emblematical, it was said , of the obtuseness of the worthy Arquebusiers. The facts of the case, however, were simply these. A dispute having arisen about the cost of a wall which separated Rubens's property from that of the Arquebusiers, the burgomaster Rockox , the captain of the guild and a friend of Rubens, persuaded him to paint this picture in order to equalise the price to be paid by each party. The hermit and the owl are well-known features in every picture relating to the legend of St. Christopher. The Elevation of the Cross , although inferior, is also a magni- ficent work. The figures are remarkable for their easy and natural atti- tudes, although inclined to be too heavy. The great life which pervades the whole, and the variety of the composition, compensate to some extent for deficiency of sentiment. In the figures of Christ and his executioners, the master displays his thorough acquaintance with the anatomy of the human frame. The horses are noble and lifelike, and a dog has even been introduced to give greater diversity to the scene. The latter was added by Rubens in 1627, when he retouched the picture. The wings form part of the same subject. On the right is a group of women and children, with horror depicted in their countenaiices , behind them are the Virgin and St. John ; on the left, mounted officers, behind them the thieves, who are being nailed to their crosses by the executioners. Choir. Tlie high-altar-piece is an *Assumption by Rubens, said to have been painted in sixteen days, doubtless with the aid of his pupils. This picture ranks with the Assumption in the Imperial Museum at Vienna as one of the best of the ten canvasses Rubens devoted to this subject. — The high-altar dates from 1824. — The rich" Gothic Stalls, carved in wood after 1840, are adorned with reliefs from the life of the Virgin and with numerous small statues, which are admirably designed and executed. The architectural portions are by Fr. Durlet, the plastic by K. Geerts, J. de Boeck and J. van Wint. The other works of art in the cathedral are all very inferior in interest to the three pictures by Rubens. As their position is frequently altered, the following description cannot claim to be permanently accurate. We begin to the S., in the — Ambulatory. 1st Chapel (on the S.): modern stained glass, by Didron of Paris [1872), representing the Mourning over the body of Christ. — 2nd Chapel : Rubens , the Resurrection , painted for the tomb of his friend the printer Moretus (see p. 151) 5 on the inside of the shutters John the Baptist and St. Martha, on the outside angels. Opposite, above the tomb of Rottiers (d. 1776), is a portrait of St. Norbert, by M. Pepyn. The carved confessionals in this and the following ohapels are by P. Verbruggen. Adjoining are two pictures , Descent of the Holy Ghost, by Ambr. Francken the Elder, and Adoration of the Shepherds, by M. de Vos. The best view of the Assumption is obtained from this chapel. — 3rd Chapel: Baedeker's Belgium and Holland. 12th Edit. 10 146 Route 15- ANTWERP. Cathedral. Artus Quellin the Younger, Marble monument of Bistop Ambrosiiis Capello, the only monument of a bishop in the church which escaped destruction in 1794. Interesting altar-piece of the School of Cologne (14th cent.), representing St. Michael and the dragon with angels and saints. — 4th Chapel : J. de Backer, Last Judgment, on the ■wings, portraits of the Plantin family by JB. Sammeling (1591; generally covered); beneath it the tombstone of Plantin, the printer (p. 151), with inscription by Justus Lipsius. — 5th Chapel : Modern stained glass by J. Bethune, A. Stalins, and A. Janssens ; modern altar-piece (triptych). — 6th Chapel : Modern stained glass by Be- thune; mural decoration in the 15th cent, style by J. Baetens, a pupil of Leys ; Mater Dolorosa by A. Quellin (d. 1668). — At the back of the high-altar, the Dying Mary, a large picture by Matthyssens (d. 1634). Below it, the Marriage of the Virgin, the Annunciation, and the Visitation, painted in grisaille with great skill by M. van Brie in imitation of half-relief. In front of it, Tomb of Isabella of Bourbon (d. 1465), wife of Charles the Bold, with her recumbent figure in bronze. — 7th Chapel : Stained glass by Bethune, Stalins, and Janssens; modern altar (1891). — 8th Chapel of the old Guild of St. Luke: modern altar, designed by J. Boeckelmans (1893); stained glass by Stalins and Janssens (1892) ; altar-piece, the Virgin with St. Luke, by A. de Vriendt. — 9th Chapel : Modern carved altar with polychrome ornamentation in the mediaeval style, exe- cuted by J. de Boeck and J. van Wint from the design of Jos. Schadde, with scenes from the life of St. Joseph, to whom this chapel is dedicated. Paintings by L. Hendricks : Philip IV. dedicat- ing Belgium to St. Joseph, Pius IX. appointing Joseph patron-saint of the Roman Catholic church in Belgium. Winged altar-pieces by Arn. Mytens (Crucifixion, Journey and Adoration of the Magi) and Com. de Vos (Descent from the Cross). On the left wall is a Pieta in the style of Rubens's Christ 'a la paille'. Above the confes- sionals: to the left, Luc. de Heere, Descent from the Cross; to the right. Madonna and Child, after Van Dyck. Stained glass from designs by Stalins and Janssens, representing the tree of Jesse. — 10th Chapel : Crucifix in Parian marble by J. van der Neer. — 11th Chapel : Large winged altar in carved wood by De Boeck and Van Wint. — On the pillar between Chapels 11 and 12, Van Veen, En- tombment. — 12th Chapel (a large one, adjoining the two last) : A. Quellin the Elder, Statue of St. Antony; stained glass of 1503, com- memorating a commercial treaty between Henry VII. of England an^ Philip I. of Castile. Transept. Rubens's pictures, described on p. 144. Also, in the N. Transept: Stained glass of 1615 and 1616 (that above the portal portraying Archduke Albert and his consort Isabella , Godfrey de Bouillon founding the Order of the Canons of St. Michael, etc.), restored in 1866. On the right, Francken the Elder, Christ and the Doctors, among whom are portraits of Luther, Calvin, and Erasmus; Cathedral. ANTWERP. 15. Route. 147 on the wings, St. Ambrose and the prophet Elias; opposite, Abr. Janssens, four church-fathers. — S. Transept: Large stained-glass window by J. Bethune, the Patron Saints of the Arts; on the right, 6. Seghers(7), St. Francis ; on the left, M. de Vos, Marriage at Cana ; Van Veen, Last Supper, — The dome above the crossing was con- structed by Dom. van Waghemakere in 1533 ; it is adorned with an Assumption by Corn. Schut (1647). The Naye and aisles contain some ancient and modern Stained- glass Windows, the former dating from the 16th and 17th cent., but to a great extent restored, the latter executed by Capronnier in the old style. The Pulpit, with its trees and birds carved in wood, is by M. van der Voort (1713). The Lady Chapel in theN. aisle contains a white marble altar, constructed in 1825 in exact imitation of an altar by Art. Quellin the Younger and P. Verbruggen the Elder, which had been destroyed in 1798. The four reliefs, representing the Annunciation, Visitation, Presentation in the Temple, and Assumption, are the original ones by Quellin. The modern stained glass by Statins and Janssens refers to the worship of the Virgin in Antwerp. The much-belauded head of Christ on white marble, on the pillar to the right of the altar, ascribed to Leonardo da Vinci, is by Otho van Veen. In the S. aisle, the *Passion in 14 scenes, painted in the medi- aeval style by Vinck and Hendricks, pupils of Leys, in 1865-67. The Chapel of the Sacrament, at the E. end of the aisle, contains an altar-piece, Christ at Emmaus, by Herreyns (1808); tabernacle in gilded copper by Hendr. Verbruggen. The subjects of the stained glass are : Last Supper, by Rombouts, 1503 ; St. Amandus preaching Christianity at Antwerp, St. Norbert restoring the Roman Catholic form of worship at Antwerp, both by Didron (1872) ; John the Baptist and John the Evangelist, of the loth century. — The Chapelle DEs Maria GES (closed), at the W. end of the S. aisle, contains stained glass by Abr. van Diepenbeeck, 1635. The altar-piece is a Holy Family by H. van Balen, in a landscape by J. Brueghel. The statue of the Virgin is by A. Quellin the Elder. The large Organ ^ with 91 registers, was built in 1891. The old organ-case, with a statue of St. Cecilia, is by P. Verbruggen. Musical works by the most celebrated composers are performed at high mass (10 a.m.) on Sundays and festivals (chair 5 c). The crucifix over the Main Portal in the W. facade (now under restoration) was cast in 1635 with the metal of a statue formerly erected in the citadel by the Duke of Alva to himself, '6x a&re captivo\ The N. Tower (402 ft.), the beautiful and elaborate open work of which was compared by Charles V. to Mechlin lace, com- mands an extensive view. The entrance is on the W. fagade, near the side-door (open all day ; adm. 50 c). The ascent is fatiguing; 514 steps lead to the first gallery, and 102 more to the second and highest. With the aid of a good telescope, the 10* 148 Route 15. ANTWERP. Hotel de Ville. spectator may in clear weather trace the course of the Schelde as far as Flushing, and distinguish the towers of Bergen-op-Zoom, Breda, Lierre, Brussels, and Malines. The Chimes consist of 40 bells ; the largest, cast in 1507, weighs 8 tons. At its consecration Charles V. stood 'godfather'. Opposite tlie door of the tower is an old Well, protected by a canopy of iron, and surmounted by a statue of Salvius Brabo (p. 149). It is said to have been executed by Quinten Matsys (d. 1529], 'in synen tyd grofsmidt, en daernaer famues schilder' (^'at one time a blacksmith, afterwards a famous painter'), according to the inscrip- tion on his tombstone (now in the Academy; p. 115). This remarkable and talented man was originally a blacksmith from Lou- vain, who, according to the legend, became enamoured of the daughter of a painter , and to propitiate the father , exchanged the anvil for the palette. The *H6tel de Ville, situated in the Grand' Place (PI. B, 3), in the vicinity, towards the N.W., was erected in 1561-65 in the Renaissance style by Cornells de Vriendt, and restored in its present form in 1581 , after its partial destruction by the Spaniards. The facade, 93 yds. in length and 125 ft. in height, rises over a rusticat- ed groundfloor , with arcades in two principal stories (Doric and Ionic), resting on massive pillars. At the top is a colonnade which supports the roof. The central part, with its circular arched win- dows, rises in three additional stories, diminishing in size as they ascend, to a height of 180 ft. In a niche above stands the Virgin tas the tutelary saint of the city, a figure placed here in 1585 ; below this, on the right and left, are allegorical figures of Wisdom and Justice. The *Interior (adm., see p. 140; entr. by the main facade beside the letter box), was thoroughly restored in 1882-'91 from designs of M. J. Dens. The Staircase is lavishly decorated with coloured Belgian marble, and the glass roof is supported by carved wooden Caryatides, representing dif- ferent branches of industry. On the walls are views of Antwerp in the 16-17th centuries. — The rooms are all embellished with carved wooden panelling. The Bdegomastee''s Room contains a Chimney-piece, finely sculp- tured in the Renaissance style, from the old Abbey of Tongerloo (p. 179), representing the Marriage of Cana, above which are the Raising of the Serpent, and Abraham's Sacrifice. There are also a few modern pictures. — Passing through an ante-room, with several portraits of the royal family by Wappers., Van Brie, and Nie. de Eeyser, we enter the handsome great hall, or Salle Lets, decorated with a series of admirablv executed paintings by E. Leys (1814-69). — 1. (to the left of the entrance), Solemn entry of Charles V., who swears to respect the privileges of the city, 1514; 2. (on the principal wall). The Burgomaster as head of the military forces of the town, or the Burgomaster Van Ursele entrusting the magistrate Van Spangen with the command of the municipal guard for the defence of the city, 1542; 3. Municipal rights, or the rights of citizenship conferred on Batt. Palavicini of Genoa; 4. The Burgomaster as civil chief of the town, or Margaret of Parma committing the keys of the city to the burgo- master during the troubles of 1566. Also portraits of twelve princes celebrated in the annals of the country, from Henry I. of Lorraine (1220) and Jan I. of Brabant (1290) to Philippe le Bel (1491), most of whom granted privileges to the town. The architectural construction of the room, closely resembling the best Italian Renaissance style, is also note- worthy. The ceiling bears the arm if the city and of the guilds. — In St. Paul's. ANTWERP. 15. Route. 149 the Sallb dks Mariages, completed in 1885, are a Renaissance chimney- piece of the 16th cent., in black and white marble, and five frescoes by Lagye: 1. Marriage among the Belgse; 2. Roman marriage; 3. First Christian marriage in Antwerp (650) ; 4. Marriage of Philippe le Bel and Joanna of Castile (1497); 5. First civil marriage in Antwerp (1793). — The Salle l>e CoNSCEiPTiON contains a modern chimney-piece with five statues of princes, by Alph. Peters^ and several portraits of princely personages by N. de Keyser and Wappers. — The Salle du Conseil Communal contains ceil- ing-paintings by J. de Roore (1717) ; life-size portraits of the royal family by De Keyser and Wappers, and an elaborately carved wooden balustrade of the 16th cent., said to be the work of a prisoner of the Inquisition. — The antechamber has a chimney-piece by Corn, de Vriendt, with a relief of the Judgment of Solomon; also a painting by Qodding., representing Burgomaster Van Straelen led to execution after being tortured by command of the Duke of Alva, iq. 1568. The space in front of the Hotel de Ville commands the best view of the cathedral. — A bronze Fountain from Lambeaux's designs was erected in 1887 in the Grand' Place, surmounted by a statue of Salvius Brabo, a mythical hero who defeated and cut off the hand of the giant Antigonus. The giant used to exact a heavy toll from vessels entering the Schelde, and ruthlessly cut off and threw into the river a hand of every shipmaster who refused to pay. Hence, says the legend, the name of the town ('Antwerp', from 'hand werpen' ; werpen = to throw). Most of the houses in the Grand' Place are Guild Houses, formerly belonging to the different corporations , and dating from the 16th and 17th centuries. The most conspicuous are, on the N., the five-storied Guild Hall of the Archers (Maison de la Vieille Arbalete; No. 17), of 1515, with a gable in two stories surmounted by a gilded equestrian figure of St. George, and the Hall of the Coopers (No. 15), of 1579, restored in 1628; on the S.E., t\Q House of the Clothiers (No. 36) and the Hall of the Carpenters (No. 40), both originally of the 15th cent., but rebuilt after the pillage of the town by the Spaniards in 1644. In the house No. 4 the painter A. van Dyck was born in 1599. — The quaint and narrow Rue des Orfevres leads W. from the market-place to the Schelde in a few minutes (see p. 173). A few streets to the N. of the Hotel de ViUe is the Vieille Bouclierie (PI. B, 3), or old flesh-market, a lofty, late-Gothic edi- fice, constructed in 1501-3 by Herman van Waghemdkere in regular courses of red bricks and white stone, with four hexagonal turrets. It is used as a warehouse. The neighbouring Rue aux Froraages and Rue des Tonneliers also contain traces of ancient Antwerp. A little to the N. rises the Church of St. Paul (PI B, 3), in the late-Gothic style , which formerly belonged to the adjoining Dominican monastery. It was erected in 1533-71 , but the choir was not completed until after 1621. Adm., see p. 140. The wall of the N. Aisle of the church is adorned with fifteen pictures: Fare Balen, Annunciation; J. Francken, Visitation; M. de Vos, Nativity and Purification of Mary; Scourging of Christ, after Rubens; Van Dyck, Bearing of the Cross; Rubens^ Adoration of the Magi; JordaenSs 150 Route 15. ANTWERP. St. Augmtine's. Crucifixion; Vinckboons, Resurrection. — Transept : De Crayer, Virgin and St. Dominic; 'Rubens, Scourging of Christ (covered); at the altar, after Caravaggio, the Virgin giving rosaries to St. Dominic for distri- bution (the original was sent to Vienna as a gift to the Emp. Joseph, who sent this copy as a substitute). — Choir. High-altar-piece, Cels, Descent from the Cross, a work of the beginning of the present century ; at the side, tombs of Henry van Varick, Margrave of Antwerp (d. 1641), his wife Anna Damant, and Bishop Mich. Ophovius (d. 1637). — S. Aisle: altar to the right, De Grayer, Body of Christ surrounded by the Magdalen, St. John, and angels; at the entrance, Teniers the Elder, The Seven Works of Mercy, a curious assemblage of cripples of every description. The fine Renaissance wood-carving of the choir -stalls, the confessionals, etc., is worthy of examination. Excellent organ. The inner court contains a 'J/<. Calvary'', an artificial mound covered with pieces of rock and slag, garnished with statues of saints, angels, prophets, and patriarchs, and surmounted by a crucifix. The grotto below is intended to represent the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. Following the 'Canal des Recollets' , a street to the E. of the Church, and turning to the left through the Rue des Recollets , we reach a small Place, formed by the junction of four streets, in the centre of which rises a marble Statue of Van Dyck (PI. B, C, 3), by Leonhard de Cuyper (1856). The old Franciscan monastery (PI. C, 3), Rue du Fagot 31, part of which was used as a Museum until 1890, is occupied by the celebrated Academie Roy ale des Beaux Arts, the successor of the mediaeval guild of St. Luke, a corporation founded for the promotion of art by Philip the Good (p. xvii) about the middle of the 15th cent., and richly endowed by Philip IV. of Spain. The number of mem- bers never exceeds twenty-five, of whom ten may be foreigners. Near this point , Rue de I'Empereur 5 , is the old house of Burgomaster Rockox, the fac^ade of which was designed by Rubens. — The Military Hospital (PI. 33 ; E, 4) was once the house of Burgomaster van Liere, who here entertained Charles V. during his visit to Antwerp in 1521. Diirer praises the building in his diary. The Rue du Fagot (see above) ends to the N.W. in the Klapdorp, in the N.W, extension of which is the small Capuchin Church (St. Antoine de Padoue; PI. C, 2j, erected in 1589, and containing two valuable pictures. On the W. wall of the left aisle, *Christ mourned, over by his friends and two angels, by Van Dyck. In the choir, the first picture on the left, St. Antony receiving the Infant Jesus from the arms of the Virgin, by Rubens. Opposite the last, St. Antony with the stigmata, of the School of Rubens. b. The South-Western Quarters of the Town and the Museum. From the S.W. corner of the Place Verte (p. 143) the Rue Nationale (PL B, 4, 5), leads to the growing quarters in the S.W. part of the new town. Near the beginning of it is a monument (PI. B, 4) to the memory of Theod. van Ryswyck, the Flemish poet (d. 1849), by L. de Cuyper (1864). A little to the E. is the Church of St. Augustine (PL B, 4); Musee Plantin. ANTWERP. 15. Route. 151 adm., see p. 140), erected in 1615, which possesses a large altar- piece with numerous figures , by Rubens, representing the Nuptials of St. Catharine with the Infant Jesus. This excellent work is un- fortunately in bad preservation. Also, to the right of the principal entrance: Cels, Elizabeth and Mary; Lens, Presentation in the Temple. On the left: Van Brie, Baptism of St. Augustine. Farther on, to the right, the Martyrdom of St. Apollonia, an altar-piece \>y Jordaens; to the left, Van Dyck, Vision of St. Augustine. The high -altar, over which is the above-mentioned work of Rubens, is by Verhruggen. On the right of the choir a modern chapel in the Roman- esque style, with frescoes by Bellemans. A side-street, diverging to the W. from the Rue Nationale, leads to the small Marche' du Vendredi, in the S.W. angle of which is the **Musee Plantin -Moretus (PI. B, 4), established in the house of the celebrated printer Christopher Plantin (1514-89), who set up his printing-office at Antwerp in 1549. From 1579 down to the present day the business was carried on in this building, at first by Plantin himself, and afterwards by the family of his son- in-law Moretus. After the middle of the 17th cent, the operation, of the firm were confined to the printing of mass and prayer-bookss for which Plantin had received a monopoly from Philip II. for the dominions of the Spanish crown. When this privilege was withdrawn in 1800, the printing-office was temporarily closed, and afterwards it was only used at intervals down to 1876, when the building with its antique furniture, tapestry, paintings (90 portraits, including 14 by Rubens and 2 by Van Dyck), and other collections, was purchased by the city of Antwerp. The house therefore now presents a unique picture of the dwelling and contiguous business- premises of a Flemish patrician of the end of the 16th century. Adm., see p. 140. Catalogue by Max Rooses, 1 fr. Ground Flock. In the vestibule we turn to the right at the foot of the staircase, and enter Room I, which contains some fine old Flemish tapestry and a tortoise-shell table. — Room II. contains several admir- able family-portraits. To the right, above the modern mantel-piece in the Renaissance style, hangs (No. 5) a portrait of Plantin by Frans Pourhus the Elder (1578), which served as a model for (9) the other portrait, by Bubens^ to the right of the door of exit. Rubens also painted the portraits of: 14. Martina Plantin (by the window of the entrance-wall)-, 15. John Moretus, son-in-law of Plantin (d. 1610); 1. Jacob Moretus; 2. Adriana Gras; 3. Arias Montanus ; 4. Abraham Ortelius ; 6. P. Plantin; 7. Justus Lipsius; 8. Jeanne Riviere, Plantings wife. Most, however, are merely school-pieces. On the exit-wall: 10, 13. Two sketches hy Rubens. In the centre, under glass: Drawings, Title-pages, Vignettes, partly by Rubens, who , as appears from receipts which are still preserved (in the middle of the window-wall), frequently drew designs for printers; others by Erasmus Quellin, Bernard van Orley, Marten de Vos, etc. Two fine cab- inets of the 17th century. — Room III. also contains numerous portraits. To the left of the entrance : 33. Balthasar Moretus on his death-bed, by Bosschaert ( Willeboirts); 30, 31. Magdalena Plantin and her husband, Gilles Beys, by an unknown painter. Among the other portraits are several copies "bv Rubens of Italian works, including (17) Pope Leo X. after Raphael. In the centre: Miniatures from the 9th to the 16th cent.; specimens of Plantings printing. Above the mantel-piece: 26. Copy of the large lion-hunt by Rubens, now at Munich. — We now cross the medi- ib^ Route 16. ANTWERP. 8t. Andrew's. seval -looking Court, where we see numerous repetitions of Plantings motto, 'Lahore et constantia.' One side is entirely covered hy the branch- es of aged vines, said to have been planted hy Plantin himself. Below the arcades, to the right, are the Sale Rooms, with a separate entrance from the street; they are embellished with old Flemish tapestry and oaken panelling (partly restored). One of them contains a painted spinet of the l7th cent. (St. Cecilia, after Rubens). On the other side of the court is the Printing Office, where everything is left arranged as if work were to be resumed to-morrow. We first enter the Proof-Readers' Room, where old proof-sheets are still lying on the desks and benches. Next to this are the Proprietor's Office, with gilt-leather hangings, and the so-called Room OF Justus Lipsics, with Spanish leather hangings, where the distinguished critic and philologist is said to have been lodged when visiting his publisher Moretus. A passage leads hence to the Ttpe Room, with old matrices, etc., and three statues in carved wood brought here from another part of the house. Finally the Composing and Printing Room, built in 1576, by the exit-wall of which stand two presses of the 16th century. We now return to the vestibule and ascend the stairs to the First Floor. Two rooms here contain specimens of the work of several famous printing-office'5 , some Chinese porcelain , and a small library, with va- rious interesting autographs in glass cases by the window-wall. Two other rooms contain a collection of wood-cuts, a map of Flanders in 1540, by Mercator. and a colovired view of Antwerp in 1565. In other rooms are preserved copper-plates aiteT Ruhens, Jordaens, and Van Dyck, with numerous early impressions, and 36 water-colour copies by Jac. de Wit from the paintings of Rubens for the Jesuits' Church (p. 166). A small room contains the documents conferring the various privileges enjoyed by Plantin; several dwelling-rooms are fitted up with old furniture. On the second floor is the type-foundry. Passing through the large library hall (chiefly theolo- gical works), we return to the staircase. A little to the S., but nearer the Rue Nationale, stands the Church of St. Andrew (PI. B, 4), a late-Gothic edifice of 1514-23, containing several works of art (adm., see p. 140). The pulpit, in carved wood, is by Van Geel and Van Hool (18th cent.). St. Peter and St. Andrew are represented in a boat on the sea, from which they are summoned by the Saviour; life-size figures, finely exe- cuted. In the N. Chapel of the Choir: Govaerts, Flight into Egypt; Seghers, St. Anna instructing the Virgin. Choir. On the high-altar is an Assumption by P. P. Verbruggen. 0. Vaenius , Crucifixion of St. An- drew; Erasmus Quellin the Younger, Guardian angel of youth. — S. Chapel OF the Choir: Franck, Last Supper (altar-piece) ; Seghers^ Raising of La- zarus; E. Quellin, Christ at Emmaus; E. Quellin, Holy Family. By the choir are two statues, (left) St. Peter by A. Quellin tfte Younger, and (right) St. Paul by Zielens. In the Transepts several modern pictures, by Verlat, Van Eycken, and others. Side-altar on the S.: Pepyn, Crucifixion; on the N., Franck , St. Anna teaching children. On a pillar in the S. Transept is a small medallion-portrait of Mary Queen of Scots (by Pour- bus), with an inscription in memory of that unfortunate sovereign, and of two of her ladies-in-waiting who are interred in this church. A few minutes to the S. of the church the Rue Nationale is intersected hy the Rue Kroonenburg (Fl. B, 5), at the W. end of which, near the Schelde, stood the Castle of Kroonenburg once mark- ing the N.W. limit of the German empire. At present the street ends at the three Southern Docks (PI. A, B , 5, 6) : the Bassin aux Charbons , the Bassin des Bateliers , which is always enliven- ed by vessels from Holland and the inner parts of Belgium , and the Bassin aux Briques. These are, however, much smaller than the N. docks (p. 174). Museum. ANTWERP. 15. Route. 153 In the Place Marnix (PI. B, 5), wMther eight streets converge, a lofty and conspicuous monument, by Winders, was erected in 1883 to commemorate the abolition of the river dues of the Schelde in 1863, an event to which Antwerp owes her present prosperity (see p. 142). At the top are Neptune and Mercury ; on the pedestal are stalactites, with the faces of river-gods, and broken chains. The*Museum (PL B, 5), erected in 1879-90 from plans by Win- ders and Van Dyck, is an imposing edifice in the Greek Renaissance style, with suggestions of the baroque. The building is in the form of a massive rectangle, enclosing six inner courts. The main en- trance, in the W. facade, is by a portico supported by four colossal Corinthian columns, and flanked on the upper story by loggie. The Attic story is embellished with allegorical figures and medallions by Dupuis, De Pleyn, Ducaju, and Fabri. The horizontal line of the upper cornice is interrupted at the corners by pylon-shaped pedes- tals, which are to support huge four-horse chariots with figures by VinQotte. The side-walls of the museum have also not yet received their decoration. — On the S. side of the exterior staircase is a colossal group, by J. Mignon, representing Artistic Fame. On the groundfloor, in the left wing, are the sculptures, in the right wing, the Rubens Collection ; on the upper floor is the picture gallery. Adm., see p. 140. Small French, English, and Flemish ca- talogues, l/'2 fr. each ; larger catalogue in preparation ; catalogue of the Rubens Collection by Rooses, 1 fr. The names of the artists are attached to the pictures. In the Entrance Hall, opposite the entrance, are four busts of former governors of the Spanish Netherlands and of Philip V., by A. Quellin the Elder, G. Kerricx, and others ; also four busts of former directors of the Academy (p. 150). We turn first to the left and enter the Sculpture Gallery. Room I. 1639. Ranch, Victory distributing wreaths ; 1507. J.B. de Bay the Elder, Girl holding a shell to her ear ; 1066. George Geefs^ Leander drowned. On the walls are drawings by Cornelius, Kaul- hach, Preller, and G. Guffens, — the last a Belgian artist though closely related to the German school. Room II. — Section I. To the right : A. Quellin the Elder, *702. St. Sebastian (wooden statue), 703. Caritas Romana ; 1523. Jos. Geefs, The Fisher, from Goethe ; 1518. A. Dumont. Cupid, in bronze ; 1039. Deckers, The blind man, group in bronze ; *10S6. Lambeaux, The kiss, highly realistic ; 1521. W. Geefs, Genoveva of Brabant; 1517. Fr. Drake, Medallion-portrait of himself. — To the left, chiefly busts of Belgian and other artists. Also : 1064. Fraikin, Find- ing of Moses; 1938. Deckers, Education of Bacchus (small group). — Section II. 1060. Ducaju, King Leopold 11. of Belgium; to the right, 1529. Kiss, Amazon attacked by a tiger, reduced marble replica of the group at the museum in Berlin; 1054. De Rudder. 154 Route 15. ANTWERP. Museum. The nest, realistic; 1210. A. C, Desenfans, Resurection. By the rear- wall : 1115. J. R. Pecker, Marble bust of Rubens, on an elaborate bronze pedestal, erected in 1877 in honour of the three hundredth anniversary of the birth of the great master ; 1204. J. J. de Braekeleer^ Mother rescuing her child (in bronze) ; 1056. P. de Vigne, Maiden's prayer ; 1619. G. J. Thomas^ Bust of A. Dumont, the sculptor [ter- racotta). Busts of artists. The corner-room, eight rooms, and two side-halls on the ground- floor of the right wing are devoted to the Rubbns Collection (V Oeuvre grave de Rubens), founded in 1877 (see above) by the city of Antwerp and the Belgian state. It contains reproductions (engrav- ings, etchings, woodcuts, photographs, etc.) of most of the extant works of Rubens and affords a most instructive insight into the won- derful versatility and inexhaustible powers of the great master. Upwards of 1100 plates etc. are here exhibited, each bearing an ex- planatory extract from Rooses's catalogue (see above). — Nos. 1-476 in- clude in six sections the religious and ecclesiastical pictures : general and symbolical representations, scenes from the Old and Xew Testaments, pointings from churches, Madonnas (in which the portrait of Isabella Brandt, Rubens's first wife, frequently occurs), saints, martyrs, etc. Next follow paintings of secular subjects: mythological (from Ovid) and historical representations, including scenes from the lives of Marie de Medecis and Henri IV. of France (originals in the Louvre), and .lames I. of Great Britain; allegories; genre-scenes; portraits (8i6-98ij; hunting- scenes; landscapes (Nos. 1001-1042): and a series of examples without numbers. — The following rooms are still empty. From the entrance-hall (p. 153) a portal leads to the Staircase (Vestibule De Keyser), the walls of which are clad with Belgian coloured marble. In the centre is a large bronze vase, by Drake, with reliefs from the monument of Frederick William III. in the Thiergarten at Berlin. To the right, P. K. van der Stappen, David, a marble statue. The chief decorations, however, are the paintings (on canvas) by Nicaise de Keyser, transferred hither from the old Museum in the Academy (p. 150), the subjects being taken from the history of the Antwerp School of Art (best viewed from the top of the staircase). In the principal painting over the entrance, and in the large scenes on the right and left wall, the whole of the Antwerp masters are assembled, 52 in the first, and 42 in each of the other two. In the centre of the prin- cipal picture is Antwerpia on a throne ; beneath are Gothic and Re- naissance art; to the left Quinten Massys in a sitting posture, and Frans Floris standing: above Massys is a group of the architects of the cathedral of Antwerp ; on the right side of the picture Rubens as the principal figure; to the left of him, his teacher Otho Vtenius; be tween them Jordaens, leaning over the balustrade, in a yellow robe; in front of Rubens is Corn. Schut, sitting on the steps; next him on the right. Van Dyck, who partly hides from view David Teniers the Elder in a blue dress; in the centre of the first bay Gasp, de Grayer, then Jan Brueghel in a red robe, etc. — The picture to our right on entering contains figures of painters and sculptors, that to the left painters and engravers. — The six smaller pictures, on the right and left of the principal pieces, are in- tended to embody the various influences which have affected the devel- opment of Flemish art, particularly those which emanated from Italy (Raphael, Michael Angelo, etc.). Six other paintings indicate the appre- Museum. ANTWERP. 75. Route. 155 elation with which the art of Brabant has been received at Vienna, Lon- don, Paris, Amsterdam, Bologna, and Rome. Tlie first floor contains the **Picture Gallbry. The Collection of Old Masters includes about 800 pictures, many of them collected from the suppressed monasteries and churches of Antwerp, while others have been brought hither from the Hotel de Ville and the Steen. In 1840 the Burgomaster VanErtborn(j^. 158) and in 1859 the Baroness Van den Hecke-Baut (Dutch masters) bequeathed their collections to the museum. The Musee des Modernes, or Gallery of Modern Paint- ings, contains about 300 canvases. The collection of works of the early Flemish school is ample and excellent. Both the early painters, who are usually classed as belonging to the school of Van Eyck, and the later, headed by Rubens, are admirably represented. Specially noteworthy are the following : St. Barbara, by Jan van Eyck (No. 410) ; the Seven Sacra- ments, by Roger van der Weyden (No. 393) ; the large work by Mem- ling, recently acquired (p. 162), and the Entombment, by Quinten Massys (No. 245); the Crucifixion, by Van Dyck (No. 406); St. Francis, by Van den Hoeck (No. 381) ; and, among the specimens of Rubens, Christ and the two Malefactors (No. 297), the Portraits of Burgomaster Rockox and his wife (wings of No. 307), the Pietk (No. 300), and St. Theresa (No. 299). The number of other than Flemish pictures is very limited ; conspicuous among them are a Crucifixion by Antonello da Messina (No. 4), and the Fisher-boy by Frans Hals (No. 188). The historical arrangement of the pictures has been attempted only on the broadest lines. Rooms A-K contain the older masters, Rooms N-P the so- called historical paintings, i.e. those referring to the history oi Antwerp , and Rooms Q-W the modern paintings (comp. the ground-plan, p. 156). — We first enter — Room J : Flemish schools of the 17th century. To the right : 709. Rubens, Jupiter and Antiope (1614). — 472, 473. Van Thulden, 'Triumphal Arch of Philip I.', painted for the illustrated descrip- tion of Rubens's Triumphal Arch published by Van Thulden and Gervatius in 1641; 318. Rubens, The triumphal car; 316, 317. Rubens, Two sketches of triumphal arches, executed in 1635 for the city of Antwerp on the occasion of the triumphal entry of Fer- dinand, Archduke of Austria, the victor of Nordlingen and Calloo. (Six other sketches are in the Hermitage at St. Petersburg, and two at Brussels, see p. 89). — 185. Ant. Ooubau, Art-studies in Rome (1662). 406. Van Dyck, Christ on the Cross, a reduced imitation of Rubens's well-known picture (No. 313); 315. Rubens, Descent from the Cross, a small replica (1612) of the painting in the cathe- dral. — *307-310. Rubens, Incredulity of St. Thomas, on the wings half-length portraits of the Burgomaster Nic. Rockox (p. 150) and his wife Adrienne Perez. The portraits are far finer than the figures in the central picture (comp. p. xlviii). 22. Th. Boeyermans, The 1 56 Route 15. ANTWERP. Museum. visit. — 748. Van Thulden, Continence of Scipio ; 157. Fr. Francken the Younger, The works of mercy. East M R S >rodGrii K II D Old B Mas- ters A N O Room . i^large central room). To the right: 212. A. Janssens, Personification of the Schelde. — 172. J. Fyt , Sleeping hounds with dead game; *299. Rubens, St. Theresa interceding for souls in purgatory, one of the most pleasing pictures of the artist's later period; 405. Van Dyck, Portrait of Caesar Alexander Scaglia, the Museum. ANTWERP. 75. Route. 157 Spanish ambassador at the Congress of Miinster; *306. Rubens^ The Virgin instructed by St. Anna, a very attractive group ; colouring mellow and harmonious (about 1630); 53. G. de Grayer, Elijah fed by ravens. *298. Rubens, Adoration of the Magi, painted in 1624. This gorgeous and imposing composition, on a similar scale with the Elevation of the Cross , but far less impressive , contains about twenty figures over life-size, besides camels and horses in the suite of the Three Kings , crowded into the picture , while the sumptuousness of the cos- tumes and vessels gives the whole an overloaded effect. The king holding the goblet is a somewhat awkward figure. It must, however, be ad- mitted that the work exhibits marvellous freedom and boldness of out- line, great skill in arrangement, and a wonderful variety of attitude — all genuine attributes of Rubens. The picture is said to have been painted in a fortnight. 481, 482. O. van Veen (Otho Vaenius^, Benefleence of St. Nicho- las, St. Nicholas saving hi'.i flock from perishing by famine. The com- position, colouring, and drawing of these pictures bear testimony to the painter's five years' residence in Italy. — *312, J2w&ens, Holy Fam- ily, ^La Vierge auperroqueV , so called from the parrot at the side, one of his earlier works, presented by him to the Guild of St. Luke, on his election as president, in 1631, and hardly inferior in composition and colouring to his more celebrated works (comp. p. xlvi). — *313. Rubens, Christ on the Cross (frequently copied and imitated). 327. Corn. Schut, Martyrdom of St. George, excellent both In composition and drawing; the saint recalls the type of Christ; 644. P. Brueghel the Younger, Yillage festival ; 673. P. Gysels, Still-life. — 107. Corn, de Vos, St. Norbert receiving the Host and Sacred Vessels that had been hidden during a time of war and heresy. No number, Rubens, Prodigal Son feeding upon husks (recently pur- chased in England). *404. Van Dyck, Entombment ('Pieta'), painted soon after his return from Italy (1628). The Virgin is represented supporting the head of the dead Christ on her knees ; St. John shows the wound made by the nail in the left hand to two angels, one of whom veils his face. The features of Christ bear traces of intense physical suflFering. St. John and the angel whose beau- tiful face is visible wear an expression of profound grief, which however they can still express in words , whereas the anguish of the Virgin is unutterable ; her head is thrown back , her arms wildly extended. The picture is chaste , the colouring subdued (now unfortunately faded) ; yet the tendency of the master's school to a full and somewhat sensual out- line is apparent, although the work does not altogether lack sentiment. 479. O. van Veen, Zachseus in the sycamore-tree. **297. Rubens , Christ crucified between the two thieves ('le coup de lance'), a very celebrated picture, painted for the church of the Franciscans in 1620. This picture is remarkable for its dramatic effect, and is by no means deficient in sentiment. Longinus, the Roman officer, mounted on a grey horse , is piercing the side of the Saviour with a lance. The penitent thief, a grey-haired man, is invoking the Saviour for the last time. To the left in the foreground stands the Virgin Mother, whom Mary the wife of Cleophas in vain endeavours t console. Farther back, St. John leans 158 Route 15. ANTWERP. Museum. against the cross of the impenitent thief, weeping. Mary Magdalen, on her knees at the foot of the Cross, implores Longinus to spare the sacred body of her master. This is considered by many to be Rubens's chef d'oettvre, and deserves the minutest inspection. There is no inaccurate drawing here, as in almost all the master's other works, and at the same time the composition and colouring are inimitable. The profile of the Magdalen is remarkably beautiful, expressive of horror and supplication, without being distorted. The whole composition is a striking example of that marvellous boldness of imagination in which Rubens is unrivalled. 480. 0. van Veen, Call of St. Mattliew; 240. N. Maes, Martyr- dom of St. George. *300-303. Rubens, 'Christ k la Paille', the body of Christ resting on a stone bench covered with straw, partly supported by Joseph of Arimathsea, and mourned over by the Virgin, with St. John and Mary Magdalen. On the wings (301 , 303) the Virgin and Child, and St. John the Evangelist. This most interesting altar-piece (painted about 1617) shows by its carefully-executed details that it is one of the master's earlier works, pro- duced before he had adopted his bold and dashing touch. Here, too, we h.ave a full and flowing outline and admirable ease of attitude, but there is no symptom of the master's subsequent abuse of his power, in pro- ducing overwhelming masses of flesh and crowds of figures in forced postures. A happy mean is here observed, and there is greater beauty and sentiment than in his later works. The colouring is delicate and harmo- nious. The weeping Mary Magdalen is a particularly expressive figure. *104. Corn, de Vos, Portrait of a functionary [fcnap, i. e. 'knave') of the Corporation of St. Luke, painted in 1620 ; he is hung with medals ; the cups of gold and silver on the table at which he stands were gifts to the Academy. 508. G.Seghers, Betrothal of the Virgin; 171. J. Fyt, Eagles feeding ; 358. Valentin, Card-players. — 719. F. Snyders, Fishmonger's shop; 344. D. Tenters the Younger, View of Valenciennes; bust of Philip IV. in front; 314. Rubens, The Trin- ity and two angels with instruments of torture. — A door to the right leads into — RoomC: Collection of Burgomaster F. van Ertborn (d. 1840), comprizing chiefly pictures of the loth and 16th centuries. The bust of the donor, by J. Geefs, is at the farther side of the room. To the right: 224. Justus van Ghent(p\ Sacrament of the Eucharist; 383-385. Gerard van der Meire, Bearing of the Cross (winged picture). — 42. L. Cranach the Eider, Adam and Eve; 341 L. Lombard (Suster- man), Portrait; 387. Gerard van der Meire, Entombment; *241, *242. Quinten Massys, Christ and Mary, two heads remarkable for their beauty and dignity (replicas in the London National Gallery). *4. Antonello da Messina (one of the first Italian masters to adopt Van Eyck's method of painting in oil), Mt. Calvary, Christ on the Cross with the malefactor at each side ; in the foreground SS. Mary and John. The picture (which bears the date 1475) presents a curious combination of the Flemish minuteness of detail with Italian forms. 254. School of Roger van der Weyden, Portrait of a member of the De Croy family; 412. Good copy after Jan uan Eyck, Virgin with the Canon de Pala (original in the museum at Bruges, Museum. ANTWERP. 15. Route. 159 p. 21) ; 397. Roger van der Weyden (?), Portrait of Philip the Good of Burgundy (under glass) j *43. L. Cranach the Elder, Charity; 264. Jan Mostert, Portrait of a woman ; 179. Mabuse, The four Maries and John coming from the Sepulchre; 198. Holbein (?), Portrait of Erasmus; 180. Mabuse, The just judges; 263. Jan Master t, Por- trait; 25. H. Bosch, Temptation of St. Antony; 386. Gerard van der Metre (?), Crucifixion. On a revolving stand in the middle of the room; *255, 256, 530, 531. Four admirable little pictures on two diptychs, almost resembling miniatures. On one of them Mary is represented with a lofty and rich crown, standing in the interior of a Gothic church ; on her right arm the Child half wrapped in the swaddling-clothes. On the back (apparently by a less skilful hand), the Saviour in a white robe with the letters Alpha and Omega, and P and F (Pater et Filius, or Principium et Finis) on a ground of red tapestry; beneath are the armorial bearings of the two donors, date 1499. The other diptych bears the portraits of the donors, Abbots of the Cistercian Monastery of Les Dunes near Bruges. These works were formerly attributed to Memling, but from the monogram (C. H.) at the top of the picture of the donor worshipping the Madonna, they are now believed to have been executed by Cornelius Horenbout, a master who flourished at Bruges about the end of the loth century. On the other stand: 208-210. Lucas van Leyden (?), Adora- tion of the Magi ; on the right wing St. George, on the left wing the donor. On the back: 181. Mabuse, Ecce Homo. Third Wall : 47. Herri met de Bles, Repose on the flight into Egypt; 199. Hans Holbein the Younger, Portrait; 243. Quinten Massys, Mary Magdalen with the box of spikenard ; 132. J. Fou- quet (early French school of the 15th cent.), Virgin and Child. *396. Roger van der Weyden, Annunciation, a small picture of most delicate execution , formerly in the Convent of Lichtenthal near Baden-Baden, once erroneously attributed to Memling (under glass). 253. Memling (School of Roger van der Weyden?), A canon of St. Norbert ; 28. Dierick Bouts (?), Madonna ; 203. Lucas van Ley- den, Saul and David ; 223. Justus van Ghent (?), Adoration of the shepherds. *411. Jan van Eyck, Madonna in a blue robe, and the Child in her arms playing with a rosary; to the right a fountain; her feet rest on rich drapery held by two angels behind her. The picture, which bears the painter's name and motto, and the date 1439 , resembles the so - called Madonna of the Seminary in the Archiepiscopal Museum at Cologne. — 33. Fr. Clouet (1510-1572; a French artist, who followed the Flemish school of painting), Por- trait of Francis II. of France when Dauphin; 124. A. Diirer {'!), Portrait in grisaille of the Elector Frederick III. of Saxony; *5. Antonello da Messina (or rather Memling?'), Portrait, *393-395. Roger van der Weyden, Sacrament of the Eucharist, flanked by two wings representing the six other Romish sacraments 160 Route 15. ANTWERP. }fus€um. (to the right, Ordination, Marriage, Extreme Unction ; to the left, Baptism, Conflrmation, Penance). The scene is in a spacious Gothic church, the architecture of which seems to unite the groups. The crucifixion in the foreground introduces an effective dramatic element into the picture ; and the spectator can hardly fail to sympathise with the distress of the women mourning there, as well as with the holy joy which lights up the features of the dying persons receiving the extreme unction. The angels above the various groups, robed in symbolical colours, are particularly well drawn. There are technical reasons for regarding the ascription of this painting to "Roger van der Weyden as still doubtful, in spite of the fact that Jean Chevrot (1437-60), bishop of Tournai (where Roger was born), is indicated as the first purchaser by his coat-of-arms on the central piece. 204, 205, 206. Lucas van Leyden, SS. Luke, Mark, and Matthew ; 250. Quinten Massys, Head of Christ; 244. Massys (?), The miser; *410. Jan van Eyck^ St. Barhara, an unfinished sketch of great beauty (1435); 3. Fra Angelica daFiesole, St. Romuald, Abhot of Ca- maldoli, reproaching the Emp. Otho III. for the murder of the Roman senator Crescentius : 64. Joachim Patinir^ Landscape, with the Flight into Egypt. 29. Dierick Bouts i;^), St. Christopher; 257-260. Simone Mar- tini of Siena (d. 1344), Annunciation in two sections, Crucifixion, and Descent from the Cross, formerly at Dijon; 462, 461, B. van Orley, Portraits. — We now traverse Room I to — Room K., which contains chiefly paintings of the later Flemish school (17-18th cent.) and a few modern pictures. To the left : 384. P. Thys, Presentation of the Virgin; 280. Er. Quellin the Younger^ A holy bishop; 39. J. Cossiers, Portrait of a surgeon; 1111, 1113. Omme^ancA; , Landscapes with animals; 436. Th. van Loon, Assumption; 178. H. Goovaerts, Company of archers unveiling the portrait of their captain J. Ch. de Cordes. — 491. Verhaghen, Hagar and Ishmael ; 490. G. P. Verbruggen, Flowers. — 1081. W. J. Herreyns, Crucifixion ; 292. J. Er. Quellin, Miracle of St. Hugo. — We now retrace our steps through Room I. to — Room H: Flemish schools of the 17th century. Above the door: 707. Rubens, Baptism of Christ, with figures over life-size ; it has unfortunately been freely retouched. The group of five men dress- ing themselves, ^to the right, seems to have been suggested by the celebrated Bathing Soldiers of Michael Angelo. 216. Jak. Jordaens, Sisters of Charity. — 381. Van den Hoeck, St. Francis. *401. Van Dyck, Christ on the Cross, at the foot of which are St. Catharine of Siena and St. Dominic, painted for the Dominican Nunnery in 1629, in the artist's 30th year, at the dying wish of his father. 336. F. Snyders, Dead game; 215. Jordaens, Last Supper; 335. Snyder s , Swans and dogs. *403. Van Dyck, Entombment: the finely-balanced composition of this expressive picture and its careful execution, in which the effect of brilliant colouring is intentionally renounced, assure it a place among the master-pieces of the first rank. — 706. Rubens, Portrait of Gasp. Ge-^aerts. Museum. ANTWERP. 16 Route. 161 *305. Rubens, Communion of St. Francis; recalling Agostino Carracci's Communion of St. Jerome. The figure of the saint, who is receiving his last sacrament, produces a most painful impression. The picture was painted in 1619, and Rubens's receipt for the price is still preserved Cseven hondert en vyftig gulden^ tot volcomen betalinghe van een stuck scMlderye door myne handt gemaeckf, i. e. 'seven hundred and fifty florins, in full payment for a piece of painting done by my hand'). 662. Simon de Vos, Portrait of the artist. — 708. Rubens, Por- trait; 31. P. Brueghel the Younger, Bearing of the Cross; 402. Copy after Rubens (ascribed to Van Dyck in the catalogue, original at Windsor), Portrait of Bishop Malderus of Antwerp (d. 1633); 21. Th. Boeyermans, Pool of Bethesda; 734. Van Dyck, Portrait of a priest; 221. Jordaens, Adoration of the shepherds; 677. J. Jor- daens the Elder, Family concert; 145. A. Francken, Martyrdom of SS. Crispinus and Crispinianus. Room F. 687-689. M. Pepyn, St. Elizabeth (triptych). — 108. C. de Vos, Adoration of the Magi. — 356. Thys, Descent from the Cross. — 136, 137, 139. Ambr. Francken, Last Supper, Disciples at Emmaus, SS. Paul and Barnabas (triptych). — We now turn to the left to — Room G. Dutch School. 657. Phil. Koninck, Portrait of a young man; 641. B. Breenberg, Death of Abel. — 10. Nic. Berghem, Ita- lian landscape, with figures ; *293. Rembrandt, Portrait of Saskia van Ulenburgh, his first wife; according to M. Bode, a repetition with alterations of the famous picture atCassel (1633), and painted by a pupil. 637. N. Berghem, Italian landscape with cattle; *705. Rembrandt, Portrait of a burgomaster ; 733. A. van de Velde, Plea- sures of winter (1662); *715. Sal. van Ruysdael, Dutch river, with ferry; *349. G. Terburg, Mandolin-player; 628. Dutch School, Por- trait;' 668. Karel Dujardin, Cattle; *188. Fr. Hals, Half-length portrait of a fisher-boy (the 'Strandlooper van Haarlem' ; painted, according to M. Bode, about 1640); 399. W. van de Velde, Calm sea; 656. J. D. de Heem, Fruit; i25. Corn. Dusart , Interior of a peasant's hut; 294. Rembrandt, The young fisher (1659); 502. J. Wynants and A. van de Velde, Landscape; 1043. N. de Keyser, Portrait of Baroness van den Hecke-Baut (p. 155); *295. Rem- brandt, Portrait of an aged Jew; 11. G. Berckheyde, Amsterdam with view of the townhall ; 9. Nic. Berghem, Plunderers. — 222. J. Jordaens, Portrait; 407. A. van Dyck, Portrait of a girl ; the dogs by Fyt; 321. Sal. van Ruysdael, Calm water; 319. Rubens and Jan Brueghel, Pieta ; 320. Jac. van Ruysdael, Landscape (1649), one of the earliest works of the master, and still revealing strong traces of the influence of J. Wynants; 34. Gonzales Coques, Portrait. — 196. G. van Houckgeest , Interior of the Nieuwe Kerk at Delft; 501. Ph. Wouverman, Riders resting; above, 1164. K. L. and E. J. Verboeckhoven, Sea-piece; 338. Jan Steen, Samson and the Philis- tines ; 398. A. vande Velde, Landscape ; 466. Adr. van Ostade, Smok- Babdekeb's Belgium and Holland. 12th Edit. 11 162 Route 15. ANTWERP. Mu9eum. ers (165535 46. Alb. Cuyp, Two riders; 679. J. Molenaer, Village festival ; 503. Wynants, Landscape (the figures by A. van de Velde):, 68'2. D. Mytens, Portrait; *339. Jan Steen, Village wedding; 500. P. Wouverman, Riders resting; 714. Jac. van Ruysdael, Storm at sea; 674. Fr. Hals, Portrait; 675. Hobbema, Mill; 131. Gov. Flinck, Portrait - group ; 752. J. Weenix, Still -life; 26. J. md A. Both, Italian landscape; 713. J. van Ruysdael, Waterfall in Norway; 755. P. Wouverman, Skirmisli of cavalry; 655. C. Decker, Land- scape; 467. Is. van Ostade, Winter -scene. — 7. L. Bakhuysen, Diitcli man of war ; 390. A. van der Neer, Landscape by moonlight ; 266. Jan Mytens, Portrait. — We return through Room F. to — Room E. To the right: 710. Rubens, L.voking the assistance of Christ for the sick and poor (sketch) ; 345. D. Teniers the Younger, Flemish tavern; 711. Rubens, Portrait of Burgomaster Rockox (comp. p. 150); above, 186. A. Goubau, Piazza Navona at Rome. — 23. Th. Boeyermans, Antwerp as patron of the arts (allegorical composition) ; 322. D. Ryckaert, Village festival ; 658. M. A. del Cam- pidoglioil), Fruit; 219. Jordaens, Allegory; 265. Murillo (copy), St. Francis. — Opposite, 653. De Backer, Last Judgment; 659. P. de Ryng, Still-life; 329. D. Seghers, St. Ignatius Loyola in a gar- laud of flowers ; 365. Van Balen, John the Baptist preaching. — D. Teniers the Younger, 348, 346, 347. Evening, Morning, After- noon, 728. The duet, 727. Landscape. — To the right is — Room D., which forms with Room B. and A. one large hall. To the right: 83-85. Mart, de Vos, Parable of the Tribute-money, Peter finding the money in the fish's mouth, and the Widow's Mite (trip- tych, 1601). *357. Titian, Pope Alexander VI. presenting the Bishop of Paphos, a member of the noble family of Pesaro, to St. Peter, on the appointment of the bishop as admiral (an early work, painted about 1503; the heads freely restored). 135. A. Francken, Feeding of the Five Thousand; 183. J. Oossaert (Mabuse), Madonna and Child. — Opposite : 638. H. Bosch, Stations of the Cross ; 273. M. Pepyn, Crossing of the Red ^ea; 229. A. Key, Second wife of Giles de Smidt and one of her daughters. — 112. Frans de Vriendt, or Frans Floris, Fall of the Angels, painted in 1554, and highly esteemed by his contemporaries. This extensive work is crowded with figures falling headlong in every conceivable attitude , and is destitute of any depth of perspective. Many of the figures are beautiful, even in their distorted positions. A fly painted on the leg of one of the falling angels has given rise to the absurd story that it was painted by Quinten Massys , and that Floris, whose daughter Massys was wooing, having been deceived by it, was satisfied with this proof of his skill, and gave his consent to the marriage. The name of the painter whose daughter Massys perhaps married (see p. 148) is unknown, while Floris was only 10 years old when Massys died. 113. Fr. de Vriendt (Fr. Floris), Adoration of the shepherds; 88. Mart, de Vos, St. Luke painting the Virgin. Room B. To the right: no number, *Memling, Christ as king of Heaven-ysurrounded by six singing angels, on each of the wings Museum. ANTWERP. 15. Route. 163 five angels with musical instTuments. This large triptych, about 23 ft. long and 5^2 ft. high, formerly in the Benedictine convent of Najera in Spain, was purchased by the city of Antwerp in Paris in 1896 for 240,000 francs. To the left : **245, 246, 248. Quinten Massys, Entombment of Christ, a winged picture (triptych), painted in 1508 for the Chapel of the Joiners in the cathedral, and universally regarded as the master's chef d'oeuvre. Central Picture. The funeral cortege is represented as halting at the foot of Mt. Calvary, whilst on its way from the Cross to the Se- pulchre. The dead Saviour is partly supported by Nicodemus , on whose right Joseph of Arimathsea supports the head with one hand, while with the other he removes the remaining shreds of the crown of thorns. The mother in an agony of grief kneels near the body of her Son, and is supported by St. John. On the left Mary Magdalen, to her right Salome. The corpse itself bears evident traces of the master s anxiety to attain ana- tomical accuracy. Its attitude is rigid, the countenance distorted by the pangs of the death-struggle. The face of the Virgin is almost as pale as that of the dead body itself. The man with the turban, bearing the crown of thorns , appears rather indignant than mournful. The expres- sion of Joseph of Arimathsea is that of pain mingled with benevolence. St. John has the rigid and almost square features , disfigured by grief which had become the usual type of the apostle in the earlier period of art. The Wings , which are less satisfactory than the central picture, represent the martyrdom of St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist, In the former Herod is represented banqueting in an open hall, whilst the daughter of Herodias brings in the head of the Baptist. The task of depicting frivolity and vanity in the countenances of the king and the hardened mother, contrasted with an expression of greater feeling in the daughter, has evidently been attempted by the master, though not very suc- cessfully. The motion of the girl, intended to be light and elastic, is hard and forced. Some of the heads, however, are admirably finished. — The other wing represents St. John in the cauldron of boiling oil. The execution- ers, in the costume of Flemish peasants, with their sun-bvirnt, muscular arms, are attending actively to the fire. In the background the Emp. Domi- tian appears, mounted on a white horse, and attended by eight horsemen. 649-651. P. Claeissens, Crucifixion, Bearing of the Cross, Re- surrection (triptych). Room A. To the right : 374. M. van Coxie, Martyrdom of St. George [on the reverse is No. 375. St. Margaret) ; 72-74. M. de Fos, Triumph of Christ (triptycb) ; 698. P. Pourbus., Gillis van Schoonbeke (p. 172). — 371. M. van Coxie, Martyrdom of St. Sebastian ; 77,78, 80. Mart.de Vos, Christ convincing the doubting Thomas, on the wings the r>aptism of Christ and the Beheading of John the Baptist; 741-745. B. van Orley, Last Judgment, on the wings the Seven works of mercy ; 576, 577, 579. Unknown Master, Large triptych, in the middle St. Eligius, the apostle of Antwerp, preaching. From Room A. we enter the so-called Historical Section, seep. 155. Room O. To the left: 413-424. Adoration of the Lamb without spot, old copy of the inner panels of the picture by the brothers Van Eyck (p. 41j, atrording a good idea of the whole; 720. Hub. Sporckmans, The town of Antwerp petitioning Emperor Ferdinand to re-open the Schelde for navigation, large allegorical painting; 735. A'ic van Eijck, Parade of the city militia in the Place de Meir (1673). — 684. G. and B. Peelers, Pattle of Calloo (163S). 11* J 64 Route 15. ANTWERP. Museum. Room P. contains almost exclusively modern views of Antwerp. To the right: 1230-1234. H. Leys, Antwerp 'studies; F. de Braekeleer, 1024. Destruction of the Porte St. Georges, 1027. The citadel after the bombard- ment of 1832, 1025. Destruction of the Porte Kipdorp , 1022. Death of Count F. de Merode (p. 82); 1005. F. Bossuet, Fish-market in Antwerp. — 1123-1125. J. Ruyten, Views of Antwerp (1875): llOi. W. Linnig, The Ex- change after the fire of 1858; 1147. Ph. van Brie, Euins of the ware- houses after the conflagration of 1830. — 1108. R. Mols, Harbour of Ant- werp in the year 1870 (seen from the Vlaamsch Hoofd); 1042. A. de Keyser. The Steen in the year 1875; 639. F. Bout, Quay with the old crane of Antwerp in the 17th century. — We return through Room O. into — Room N., which contains, besides views of old Antwerp, a number of portraits by unknown masters. Left Wall: 1078. Herrepns, Portrait of Jac. de Bues; 271. J. Pesters, The Schelde at Antwerp in winter; 277. Rob. Peril, Entry of Charles V. and Pope Clement VII. into Boulogne in 1530, huge painted wood-cut. Right Wall: 635. Unknown Artist, Burning of the Hotel de Ville of Antwerp in 1577; 607. P. Goetkint, Destruction of the old citadel of Antwerp in 1577; 636. Unknown Artist, Reception of Marie de M^d- icis at Antwerp (1631); 681. Jan Mostert, View of the old Hotel de Yille at Antwerp, with the Trial of Christ. Through Room J. (p. 155) we reach the Gallbby of Modern Paintings (Museb des Modernbs). Room Q. To the right: 1106. A. J. Minguet, Interior of the Cathedral of Bruges ; 1531. J.B.Madou, Young man offering a girl a necklace ; 1157. J. L. van Kuyck, Stable; no number, Kinder- mans, Landscape; 1059. L. Douzette, Winter-scene by moonlight; 1073. Th. Gerard, Wedding-guests ; 1182. E. Wauters, On the Kasr- en-Nil in Cairo; 1063. Th. Fourmois, Scene in the Ardennes, near Dinant; above, 1102. W.Linnig, Workshop of Geert de Winter, the Antwerp copper-smith; 1012. P. Clays, River- scene near Dort; 1520. J. L. Dyckmans, Blind beggar; 1183. A. Wiertz, Contest for the body of Patroclus ; 1134. J. B. Stobbaerts, Dogs; 1170. Verlat, Portrait of J. Lies, the artist; 1131. A. Stevens, Despair; 1120. J. Fr. Portaels, Hendrik Conscience. — 1070. J. Geeraerts, Interior of St. Paul's Church at Antwerp; 1098. J. Lies, Prisoners of war; 1029. H. de Braekeleer, Tavern at Antwerp; 1184. Wiertz, Portrait of Constantin van den Nest; 1099. J. Lies, 'The foe is coming'; 1110. L. Mimthe, Winter-scene; 1100. Lies, Albrecht Diirer trav- elling on the Rhine; 1511. A. Calame , The Wetterhorn ; 1084. B. C. Koekkoeh, Scene near Cleves. — 1045. A. de Knyff, Village of Chaslepont; 1161. J. P. van Regemorter, Quarrel over cards. Room S. To the right : 1000. Aug. Abry, Horses ; no number, IE. A. Portielje, 'Lost!'; 1194. Van Engelen, Belgian emigrants; 1172. Verlat, Buffalo and lion fighting; i2A3. Stallaert, Immolation of Polyxena on the funeral pile of Achilles ; 1220-1227. H. Leys, Studies of portraits and costumes for the frescoes in the Hotel de Ville. — 1209 E. de Latour, Portrait of E. de Block, the painter ; 1105. Is. Meyers, On the banks of the Schelde; 1191. V. Lagye, Gipsy. Room R. To the right: 1239. E. A. Portielje, Coffee party; 1206. De Oroux^ The coffee-roaster; 1219. H.Leys, Pifferarij 1174. Vcrtot, Museum. ANTWERP. 75. Route. 165 Rising in Antwerp on 24th Aug., 1577, the shattered statue of the Duke of Alva being dragged through the streets ; no number, F. Courtens, Avenue of trees; 1245. f. N. Crabeels, Autumn-scene. — 1559. Verlat^ Pieta. — No number, Collart, Farm-yard; 1241. J. G. Rosier, Minuet; 1121. L.Robbe, Cattle pasturing ; 1058. J. de Vriendt^ Raising of the daughter of Jairus ; no number, 0. Walckiers^ The Palais de Justice at Brussels ; no number, A. J. Verwee, Horses ; 1242. H. Schaefels, The British fleet before Flushing, 1809. — 1197. Verlat, 'Vox Dei' (triptych) ; below, Oriental studies for the picture. — In the following Room L. is a large painting by Nic. de Keyser: Procession in a S. Spanish city. — We return through Room S. into — Room T. To the right : 1088. Eg. Leemans^ Summer evening on the sea; 1127. Schaefels, Battle of Trafalgar. — 1018. Ed. de Biefve, Banquet of the Gueux (p. 100). — 1527. J. Jacobs^ Porte d'Aval at Etretat (Normandy); 1009. E. Carpentier, Episode dur- ing the Vendean war ; no number, Q. Vanaise, Madonna and Child and John the Baptist; 1006. H. Source^ Return from fishing; 1087. P. Lamor infer e, Landscape; 1167. J.F. Verhas^ The beach atHeyst; 1094. H. Leys, Flemish wedding in the 17th cent. ; 1203. H. de BraeTceleer, The gardener; 1133. Stobbaerts, Leaving the stable; no number, J. H. H. Luyten, Group of artists ; J. van de Roye, Fruit. — No number, Gallait, Corpses of Counts Egmont and Hoorn (reduced replica of the painting at Tournai, p. 61). — 1501. E. Bendemann, Penelope; 1180. Wappers, Mother and child. — No number, T. Verstraete, House of death ; 1072. W. Oeets, Joanna the Mad of Castile; 1093. Leys, Rubens at a fete at Antwerp; 1148. P. van der Ouderaa, Judicial reconciliation in St. Joseph's chapel in the cathedral; no number, Van Leemputten, Distribution of bread in a Flemish village. Room U. 1509. F. de BraeTceleer the Elder, Village-school; 1122. J. Rosseels, Neighbourhood of Waasmiinster; 1142. M. J. van Bree, Death of Rubens. — 1168. P. Verhaert, The seaman's seal, — 1179. Fr.H. Vinck, The Netherlandish nobles before Margaret of Parma; 1014. J.D. Col, Barber's shop; 1181. Wappers, The brothers DeWitt awaiting in their prison the entrance of the mob (p. 278); 1549. E. J. Verboeckhoven, Going to market ; 1189. J. Lies, Contrasts ; 1021. F. de Braekeleer the Elder, Plundering of Antwerp by the Spaniards (1576); 1020. A. de Braekeleer, Smithy; 1008. C. Cap, Episode from the Belgian national festival of 1880; 1114. Ch. Ooms, Philip II. paying the last honours to Don John of Austria. — Opposite: 1160. Fan JLwppen, Autumn-scene; 1165. Verboeckhoven, Cattle (life-size) ; 1003. P. Beaufaux , The daughter of Herodias waiting for the head of John the Baptist. Room V. To the right : 1062. E. Farasyn, Fish-market in Ant- werp; 1505. A. Ca&aneZ, Cleopatra testing poisons on criminals; 1001. A. Asselberghs, Sunset; 1171. Verlat, Madonna and Child with the 166 Route 15. ANTWERP. Jesuits' Church. four Evangelists; 1055. E. de Schampheleer^ View of Gouda; 1173. Verlat, Cart and horses; 1057. A. de Vriendt^ Pope Paul III. before the portrait of Luther; 1513. N. de Keyser^ Charles V. liberating Christian slaves on the capture of Tunis. — Opposite: 1555. Wappers, The Shulamite maiden ; 1541. J. N. Robert-Fleury, The dead body of Titian in the Palazzo Barbarigo at Venice ; 1083. F. Keelhoff^ Landscape ; 1044. N. de Keyset^ Bull-light; 1004. E. Beernaert^ Heath near Oosterbeek; no number, Bouguereau^ The Women at the Sepulchre; 1159. J. van Leriu^ ^ Lady Godiva riding through the streets of Coventry; 1158. L. Fr. van Kuyck^ Woodcutter. Room W. Mostly portraits of Antwerp artists ; a few of German and French artists. Also: 1535. Overbeck^ Christ escaping from his persecutors. At the corner of the Rue des Graveurs, a few yards to the E. of the Museum , is the Synagogue (PI. B, 5), in the Moorish style, completed in 1893. c. The Eastern Quarters of tlie Town and the Avenues. A little to the N.E. of the Cathedral lies the former Jesuits' Church (^St. Charles Borromee ; PI. B, 3), built in 1614-21 by the Jesuit Fr. Aguillon, and sumptuously adorned with marble and works of art from plans by Rubens. Rubens himself furnished for it no fewer than 36 pictures (oomp. p. 152). The church was struck by lightning in 1718 and burned to the ground, with the exception of the choir with its two side-chapels containing three large altar- pieces (Assumption, Miracles of St. Ignatius Loyola, and St. Francis Xavier), now preserved in the Imperial Museum at Vienna. The church was rebuilt in the style of the original edifice, though with less magnificence. Handsome fagade. Pleasing bell-tower in the Renaissance style. The Interiok is in the form of a basilica with galleries. Round the walls, to a height of about 10 ft. from the floor, runs a handsome car- ved wooden wainscoting with medallions representing scenes from the lives of SS. Ignatius and Francis Xavier, by Van Baurscheidt (d. 1745) and Van der Voort (d. 1737). The high- altar was designed by Rubens. Over the altar the three following paintings are exhibited alternately : C. Schul, Madonna enthroned : Segkers. Christ on the Cross ; Wappers., The Virgin interceding. The statues of SS. Francis Borgia and Francis Xavier are by A. Quellin^ those of SS. Ignatius and Aloysius by A. Colyns de Nole (17th cent.). The Lady Chapel still contains some specimens of the marble de- coration of the building of 1618. The Chapel of St. Francis Xavier contains a painting by Sec/hers, St. Francis kneeling before the Virgin. In the tSacristt/ is a handsome ivory cfucifix of the 17th century. The building to the W. of the church contains the Municipal Library (adm., see p. 140). In front of it is a monument to Hen- drik Conscience, the Flemish novelist (1812-83), by Fr. Joris. The LoNGUE Rue Neuve leads hence to the right to the*Bourse, or Exchange (PL C, 2), erected in 1869-72 on the site of a tine late-Gothic structure of 1531 (by Dom. van Waghemakere), which St. Jacques's. ANTWERP. 15. Route. 167 was burned down in 1858. The new edifice , designed by Jos. Schadde, is in the same style as its predecessor, but on a much larger scale, and has an entrance on each of the four sides. The hall, which is covered with glass, is 56 yds. long and 44yds. wide, and is surrounded by a double arcade borne by 68 columns, opening towards the centre in Moorish-Gothic trefoil arches. Above these is a gallery borne by 38 columns, adjoining which is the Tri- bunal de Commerce. The ceiling is borne by an elegant wrought- iron framework, and the walls are adorned with the arms of Ant- werp, the Belgian lion, and the arms of the different provinces of Belgium. In the angles between the arches are the arms of the chief seafaring nations. Except during business-hours (see p. 140), the building is used as a public thoroughfare; ascents to the gal- leries adjoining the N. and S. portals. The Rue des Douze Mois (Twalf Maandenstraat) leads from the S. portal of the Exchange to the W. end of the Place de Meir (PI. C, 3, 4), which has been formed by the arching over of a canal, and is flanked by several handsome old houses in the baroque style. This Place, with the streets leading to the W. (towards the Place Verte) and to the S. (Pont de Meir^ Marche aux Souliers, Rue des Tanneurs), is the chief centre of business in Antwerp , with the principal restaurants, cafes, and tavernes. No. 50 in the Place, to the E.'from the Rue des Douze Mois, is the Royal Palace, erected in 1745 from plans by Van Baurscheidt^ for a wealthy citizen of Antwerp. No. 52, a little farther to the E. , is the House of Rubens' s Parents, erected in 1567, and restored in 1854, a richly decorated building with two Corinthian columns and a bust of Rubens on the top. The only remaining part of the house which the illustrious painter built for himself in 1612, and where he died on 30th May, 1640, is a hand- some portico with sculptures by Fayd'herbe, now in the garden of a house to the left (No. 7) in the neighbouring Rue Rubens. — For the Rue Leys, the prolongation of the Place de Meir (tramway), see above. The Rue du Chme {Eekstraat; PI. C, 3), in which is the Institut de Commerce (PI. C, 3), with a commercial museum (adm., see p. 140), leads back to the Longue Rue Neuve, which it joins near the church of St. Jacques. The *Cliurch of St. Jacques (PI. C, 3), in the late-Gothic style, was begun in 1491 from designs by Herman van Waghemakere and carried on after his death in 1503 by Dam. van Waghemakere and Romhout Keldermans, but was still unfinished in 1526 when the work was discontinued. In 1602 after the subsidence of the religious troubles of the latter half of the 16th century, the works were resumed, and the church was completed in 1656 (the chief portalbeing added in 1694). It is a cruciform structure, flanked with chapels on each side and in the choir also, and is the most important church in Antwerp after the cathedral, which it far surpasses in the sumpt- 168 Route 15. ANTWERP. St. Jacques's. uousness of its monuments and decorations. The wealthiest and most distinguished families at Antwerp here possessed their burial- vaults, private chapels, and altars, the most interesting of which is that of the family of Rubens, in the ambulatory. The Intbrior (adm., see p. 140), which is of harmonious pro- portions, is lighted by fine stained-glass windows, both ancient and modern, the former having been chiefly executed by A. van Diepen- beeck and Van der Veeken, the latter by J. Capronnier. S. Aisle. We begin to the W. 1st Chapel: A. van Dyck, St. George and the dragon ; opposite, wooden statuette of St. Sebastian, by A. Quellin. The reliefs, representing scenes from the Passion, in this chapel and several of those following and also in the N. aisle are by J. Geefs, J. and L. de Cuyper. — 2nd Chapel: M. de Vos, Temptation of St. Antony. Opposite, monument of the Burgomaster Van Ertborn (p. 1 58), with a Madonna by Guido Reni. — 3rd Chapel : E. Quellin, St. Rochus cured of the plague, 1660. This and the two following chapels contain twelve small scenes from the life of St. Rochus, executed in 1517. — 4th Chapel: Altar-piece by 0. van Veen. — 5th Chapel : Ft. Floris, Women occupied with the Infant Christ and St. John ; opposite, monument of Church- warden Nicolas Mortens (d. 1586) and his wife, with portraits, by Ambr. Francken. — 6th Chapel: M. Coxie, Baptism of Christ; Marten de Vos, Martyrdom of St. James, the wings by Francken (Daughter of Jairus, Canaanite woman ; on the back, Gethsemane). Transept. Marble statues of the Apostles by Van der Voordt, Kerricx, De Cuyper, and others. To the right and left at the beginning of the choir: Resurrection by E. Dujardin (1862), and Assumption by Boeyermans (1671). In the S. arm: Elevation of the Cross, a high - relief by Van der Voort, 1719. Above the portal: Honthorst, Christ expelling the money-changers from the Temple , the wings by De Crayer. — The S. transept is adjoined by the — Chapel of the Host, containing a marble altar, fine marble screen, and statues of SS. Peter and Paul, by P. Verhruggen, L. Willemssens, and Kerricx. The pictures are by P. Thys (Last Supper ; altar-piece), E. van Donk (Peter's repentance), B. van Orley (Holy Family), and Jan Massys (Madonna and Child). The *Stained Glass of 1626 represents Rudolph of Hapsburg giving his horse to the priest carrying the monstrance, with the donors below. Choir. The rococo high-altar is by Ykens, the ornamentation by Kerricx, Willemssens, etc. The statue of St. James and the choir- stalls were carved by the older and younger Quellin. The stained- glass window is by Van Diepenbeeck, 1644. Ambulatory. — By the wall of the choir. Confessionals by A. Quellin, Willemssens, a^zid others. Above the first of these : Goubau (d. 1618), Dead body of Christ; on either side of the second : M. de Vos, Ecce Homo (1562), and Verlinde , Madonna (1870). — 1st Chapel: H. van Balen the Elder, Trinity; opposite, *A, van Noort, St. Jacques's. ANTWERP. 15. Route. 169 Calling of St. Peter to the ApostlesMp (Peter giving Christ the fish •with the piece of money). — On the pier opposite : Com. Schut, PietJl. — 2nd Chapel: Seghers, St. Ivo. — 3rd Chapel: Seghers, Appearing of Christ. Van der Voort, Christ scourged, a group in marble. Above the next door : Coronation of the Virgin, Nativity, and Adoration of the Magi, a winged picture by A. Janssens. 4th. Rubens Chapel. The tomb of the illustrious painter (d. 30th May, 1640, at the age of 64) was covered by a tombstone in 1755, bearing a long inscription in Latin. The **Altar-piece of this chapel is a fine work by Rubens. The Holy Child is represented sitting in the lap of the Virgin in an arbour, and worshipped by St. Bonaventura. Before the Madonna is St. Jerome, while on the other side is St. George with three holy women. According to tradition these saints are all family portraits. St. Jerome la said to be the father of Rubens, St. George the painter himself, and the three women his two wives and Mademoiselle Lunden , whose portrait in the National Gallery at London is famous under the name of the 'Chapeau de paille". The tradition is, however, doubtful, for the exe- cution of the work differs from that usual with Rubens in his later years, in which alone the portraits could have been painted. The marble statue of the Virgin, the two angels, and the upper portion of the altar , are probably the work of Luc. Fayd'herbe (d. 1694), with whom Rubens was intimate. On the right and left are the monuments of the baronesses Stier d'Artselaer and Van Havre, two female descendants of Rubens, executed by W. Geefs. Above the next door: Th. Rombouts, Betrothal of St. Catharine. — 5th Chapel : Jordaens , S. Carlo Borromeo among persons sick of the plague. — 6th Chapel : Van Lint, St. Peter taking leave of St. Paul; opposite, P. Thys, Abraham's Sacrifice. — 7th Chapel: J. V. T^o^/^yoe«, Visitation (1639). A/oom, Christ at Emmaus (1843). After Van Dyck, Crucifixion (original in the Museum). — On the wall of the choir : Peter Thys, The Trinity. The Chapel of the Virgin, in the N. transept, contains stained glass by De ZaBaer (1641); also, on the altar, A. Quellinthe Elder, Pietk, a small painted sculpture in wood, 1650; A. Francken, Entombment, and the Risen Saviour appearing to Mary Magdalen. N. Transept. Above the portal, J. Honthorst, Christ among the Doctors in the Temple, on the wings, Seghers, Annunciation, and Adoration of the Magi. By the next wall : P. Thys , Assump- tion of the Virgin; E. Quellin the Younger, Death of St. Francis. — On the first pillar of the nave, C. Schut, Pieta. N. Aisle. 2nd Chapel, on the E.: M. de Vos , Glory, a winged picture ; Peter van den Avont, Madonna and the Child in a garden, surrounded by angels; stained glass representing the Last Supper, with portraits of the donors, 1538. — 3rd Chapel : *B. v. Orley, Last Judgment; on the wings St. George and the Burgomaster Rockox, the donor of the picture, with his three sons ; and St. Catharine and the wife of the burgomaster, with their ten daughters. — 4th Chapel : Van Balen, Adoration of the Magi, with Flight into Egypt, Cruci- 170 Route 15. ANTWERP. Flemish Theatre. fixion, and Nativity below in grisaille; on tlie wings Annunciation and Visitation ; opposite, Ryckaert, Portrait of J, Doncker and his wife. — 5tli Chapel: M. de Vos, Mary entering the Temple. Tomb of Corn, Landschot (J. 1656), noted for his benevolence, with the inscription: 'men wint den hemel met gewelt, of is te koop met kracht van geld'. — 6th Chapel : Tomb of the Spanish general Del Pico (d. 1693). — In the nave, *Pulpit by Willemssens, with the symbols of the Evangelists and allegorical figures of Faith, Religion, etc. (1675). At the E. end of the Longue Rue Neuve rises the Flemish The- atre, or Schouwhurg (PI. C, 3), a handsome Renaissance building, erected by Dens in 1369-72. Inscription on the W. side, towards the Place de la Commune : 'Vrede baart kunst, kunst veredelt het volk' (peace begets art, art ennobles the people). — In front of the theatre rises the so-called Monument of the French Fury, erected in 1883 from designs by W. Geefs and Van Dyck , and representing Antwerpia triumphing on a richly decorated pedestal; it occupies the site of the former Borgerhout Gate, where on 17th Jan. 1583 the French under Duke Francis of Anjou were defeated by the cit- izens of Antwerp and expelled from the town. At the Place de la Commune (PL C, 3), on the N.E. side of which stands the Athenee Royal, built in 1880-84 by Dens, we reach the ring of spacious streets constructed on the site of the ram- parts that formerly encircled the old town and were removed in 1859. To the N. runs the Avenue du Comm.erce, with a Scandinavian Lutheran Church, in the Gothic style (near the Capuchin church, p. 150); to the S. are the Avenue desArts, the Avenue de I' Industrie, and the Avenue du Sud, leading to the South Station. These avenues arc all shaded with rows of trees. Near the beginning of the Avenue des Arts (or Kunstlei), to the left, is the new Market {Halles Centrales, PL D, 3), opened in 1893; beyond it, to the right, is the small Place Teniers (PL C, 3), with a statue of David Teniers (1610-90), by Ducaju (1867). The short Rue Leys, containing the house (No. 12) formerly occupied by Hendrik Leys, the painter, leads hence to the W. to the Place de Meir (see below). — Farther on, on the S.E. side of the Avenue des Arts, is the Avenue Marie-Therese, leading to the Park (p. 171). At the end of the Avenue des Arts, to the right, stands the National Bank (PL C, 5), with its round corner-turrets, built in 1875-80 in the Flemish Renaissance style by Beyaert. The archi- tectural details are admirably executed. In front of the bank is a fountain. At the end of the Avenue de l'Industbie [Nyverheidslei ; PL C, 5), on the E. side, is the Palace of Justice, erected in 1871-75 by Baeckelmans in the French style, and resembling the chateaux of the period of Louis XIII. Park. ANTWERP. 15. Route. 171 The Avenue du Sud passes near the synagogue and the Museum (p. 153). Behind the National Bank is the small Place Leopold (PI. 0, 4), embellished with an Equestrian Statue of Leopold /., in bronze, designed by J. Gcefs (1868). The stone pedestal bears a double inscription, in Flemish and French. On one side is the answer made by Leopold when his election as king was announced to him (1831) ; on the other, his words as king at the laying of the foundation of Antwerp docks (1856). — The Rue Leopold leads hence to the N., to the Theatre Royal (p. 139), passing the Botanic Garden ^ which contains a botanical museum (adm. for scientific visitors 5-7 and 9-10 p.m.), a palm-liouse and a statue of P. Cou- denbery, an Antwerp botanist of the 16th cent., by De Cuyper. — In the vicinity is the St. Elizabeth Hospital. The former Maison des Orphelines, or girls' orphanage, Longue Rue de I'Hopital 29, now occupied by the administration of the public charities, was built in 1552. Above the door is a relief re- presenting a school of the 16th century. The Gothic Church of St. George (PI. C, A- adm., see p. 140), erected in 1848-53 from designs by Sluys^ with its two lofty spires, contains fine mural *Painting3 by Guffens and Swerts^ executed in 1859-68. The subjects are the Childhood and Youth of Christ, down to the Entry into Jerusalem (right aisle, beginrdng at the choir); the Sufferings of Christ, the Resurrection, Ascension, Des- cent of the Holy Ghost (left aisle, beginning at the door); Christ with the Virgin, Joseph, St. George, and the Apostles and Evange- lists (in the choir). d. The Park and the Zoological Garden. Near the centre of the present town, surrounded by the most fashionable new streets, lies the Park (PI. C, D, 4), laid out in 1867-69 by M. Keiliy (p. 116). It occupies the site of an old lunette, the moats of which have been converted into an ornamental sheet of water, spanned by a chain-bridge. In the N. angle of the Park is a statue of the painter Quinten Massys (about 1460-1530), by H. de Braekeleer, erected in 1883. From this point the Avenue Rubens leads to the statue of the painter Hendrik Leys (1815-69), by J. Ducaju, in the Avenue Louise Marie, in which (to the N.E.) there is also a large Jesuit convent, with a school and church. — The Avenue Rubens proceeds thence to the monument (by Jul. Pecher) erected in 1886 to the painter Jac. Jordaens (1593-1678). Beside the road through the Park is a bust (notice the spectacles) of E. Allewaert (1835-89), a magistrate who did much for the schools of the town. — The Avenue Van Eyck leads to the Place Loos (PI. D, 5). The space in front of the church of St. Joseph (see p. 172) is embellished with the Monument Loos, by Jul. Pecher, erected in commemoration of the destruction of the old fortifications, \72 Route 15. ANTWERP. Zoological Garden. which were built during the Spanish domination and existed down to 1859. It consists of a statue of Antwerpia on a lofty base, surrounded with figures representing commerce and navigation. In front is a marble bust of Burgomaster J.F. Loos (1848-62). — Opposite, at the corner of the Avenue Quinten Matsys and the Avenue Plantin (PI. D, 4), is a magnificent house in the Flemish style, erected for M. Rene Moretus de Theux (comp. p. 151) from the designs of J. Stordiau. The medallions on the facade represent distinguished men connected with the history of the Plantin printing-house. Between the Avenue Moretus, which leads hence to theE., and the Avenue Charlotte, leading to the S.E., rises the new Chuech of St. Joseph (PI. D, 5), a Romanesque building by Gife. The interior contains fine altars and a handsome pulpit , and is adorned with stained glass and frescoes of the Passion, the latter by Hendricks. — At the point where the Avenue Moretus meets the Boulevard Leopold rises the Monument of Gillis van Schoonbeke (1519-1556), the architect of the Waterhuis (p. 174). In the Boul. Leopold, opposite the end of the Avenue Charlotte , is a colossal statue of Boduognatus, a Belgian chief, who opposed the invasion of Julius Caesar, by Ducaju (1861). The Boulevard Leopold ends on the S.W. at the Chaussee de Malines, opposite the entrance to the Pepiniere [PI. D, 6), or ar- boricultural garden, which has been converted into a pleasant park in the English style. — The Basilique du Sacre Coeur (PI. D, 7), in the adjacent Avenue de Merode, built by Bilmeyer and Van Riel, contains stained-glass windows by L. Lefevre of Paris and an altai by Armand Calliat of Lyons. — To the N.E,, in the Rue Abert-Gri- sar, are the extensive buildings of the Girls' Orphanage (^Orphe- linat des Filles; PI. D, E, 6), opened in 1883, shown only by per- mission of the trustees at the old Orphan Asylum (p. 171). Behind the Principal Station (p. 137), which is undergoing alteration, lies the *Zoological Garden {Dierentuin; PI. D, 3, 4), which is entered from the Rue Carnot. It was founded in 1843 and then lay outside the town, between it and the suburb of Borgerhout. It is one of the best in Europe (admission, see p. 140). Concerts in summer on Sun., Tues., and Thurs. afternoons or evenings. The carnivora are fed daily at 5 p.m. (Sat. excepted), the seals at 11 and 4, the serpents Sun. and Thurs. at 4 p.m. — Adjacent is a Pano- rama of the Battle of Worth (PI. D, 4), see p. 139. — The old E. suburb of Borgerhout is adorned with a Statue of Carnot, defender of the city in 1811, situated in the 'Place' of the same name (PI. E, 3). To the N.W. is the new Church of St. Willibrord (PI. E, 8), erected in the Gothic style by Blomme. — Farther to the N. is the large Hospital van Stuivenberg (PI. E, 2), fitted up in a superior style (admission by order of the director). Visitors who wish tu inspect the new and formidable circumvallation of Antwerp may make use of one of the tramway -lines which connect The Steen. ANTWERP. 15. Route. 173 the interior of the city with the various gates, e.g. the Porte de Malines (in the former suburb ofBerchem, PI. E, 7), which is itself interesting in an architectural point of view. e. The Bank of the Schelde and the Docks. The influence of the tide is perceptible on the Schelde a long way above Antwerp, and at the city the difference between high and low water amounts to 12-25 ft. ('Bisque die refluo me flumeu Scaldis honorat'). Along the river extend the handsome and busy *Wharfs, or Quais, which have undergone since 1877 a process of complete reconstruction, and are now upwards of 2 M. in length. The river , the width of which at Antwerp formerly varied from 900 to 2000 ft. , has been confined to a channel with a uniform width of 1150 ft. and a uniform depth of 25 ft., permitting even the largest vessels to lie alongside the quays. The steamers and merchantmen receive and discharge their cargoes with the aid of gigantic and noiseless hydraulic cranes, which transfer the goods directly to or from the railway-trucks. The cranes are worked by a subterranean aqueduct, which is also used in opening and shutting the sluice-gates, in shunting the trains, etc. There are two engine- houses in connection with the aqueduct, one at the N. and one at the S. harbour. These alterations, the total cost of which is estimated at 38,275,000 fr. (1,530,000^.), have, along with the new Docks, made Antwerp one of the first harbours in the world. Above the dock-sheds, to which there is no admittance except on business, run the Promenoirs, or elevated terraces, which afford an extensive view of the busy shipping in the Schelde, as well as of the Steen (see below), the Cathedral (p. 143), and the Boucheries (p. 149). The principal staircases ascend from beside the Quai Van Dyck (PI. B, 3, 4), at which lie the fine steamers of the North Ger- man Lloyd, plying to Shanghai and to Sydney. Other large liners lie along the other quays. Two cafes, see p. 138. Opposite the S. end of the Promenoirs stands the Porte de I'Escaut (PI. B, 4), a gateway designed by Rubens and adorned with sculptures by A. Quellin, which formerly stood a little farther to the N. It bears an inscription dedicated by the ^Senatus Populusque Antwer- piensis'' to the ^Magnus Philippus^ (1624). This prince was Philip IV., grea-grandson of the Emp. Charles V., who reigned from 1621 to 1665, and under whom Spain entirely lost her prestige, having been deprived of Portugal in 1640, and finally of the Netherlands in 1648. Another relic of the past is the Steen (PL B, 3), originally part of the Castle of Antwerp , through which the ascent to the N. Promenoir from the Quai Van Dyck now leads. The castle dates from the 10th cent, and remained in the hands of the lords of the soil till 1549, when Charles V, made it over to the burghers of Antwerp. It was afterwards the seat of the Spanish Inquisition. An addition was built in 1889 on the N., in the style of the original. 174 Route 15. ANTWERP. Docks. The interior (adm., see p. 140; stick or umbrella 10 c, candle for dun- geon 10 c. ; catalogue l'/? fr. , to the Egyptian section 1/2 fr.) is occupied by ttie Muzeum van Oudheden, a collection of antiquities and curiosities from Roman times till the 18th cent., furniture weapims, ivory and wood-carv- ings, ornaments, glass (manufactured in Antwerp after Venetian patterns), porcelain, coins, tapestry, costumes, ancient prints, engravings, and old views of Antwerp. The dungeons, 'oubliettes', etc. still bear sombre witness to its former history. The old chapel is also extant. In a forecourt sur- rounded by a tasteful railing are columns, altars, tombstones, etc. Near the Steen is a monument erected in 1890 to W. Ogier, a Flemish poet of the 17th century. At the N. end of the quays is a handsome new building with a tower, known as Het Pilotage, erected in the Flemish Renaissance style by Kennis and Truyman , and occupied by the Ecole de Navigation and the Emigrants' Commissariat. The *Docks (PI. B, C, 1, 2) lie at the N. end of the town and cover an area of upwards of 250 acres. They are connected with each other as well as with the smaller docks at the S. side of the town and with the railway-stations by an extensive net-work of railways, by which about 2500 trucks leave Antwerp harbour daily for different parts of Europe. We first reach the two older basins, the Petit and Gkand Bassin, constructed by Napoleon (1804-13) at a cost of 13 million francs as a war harbour, but ceded after 1814 by the Dutch government to the town of Antwerp as a com- mercial harbour. The small dock is capable of containing 100, and the large one 250 vessels of moderate tonnage. The Maison Hanse- atique or warehouse of the Hanseatic League , erected in 1564-68 by Cornells de Vriendt between these docks, was burned down in 1893, and is now replaced by iron sheds. At the E. end of the Grand Bassin is the Entrepot Royal (PL C, 2), built in 1829-32 and purchased by the city in 1884. The powerful steam elevators here are interesting. Of older buildings in this quarter of the town the only ones now left are the Waterhuis , Rue des Brasseurs 24 (PI. B, 2), with large pumping-works invented in 1553 by Gillis van Schoonbeke, and the former Hessenhuis (PI. C, 2; now a ware- house), built in 1562 for the Hessian carriers , by whom at that time the traffic between Antwerp and Germany was almost exclu- sively carried on. — In the Place de TEntrepot (PI. C, 2) are the German Seamen's Home and the new Zeemanshuis, erected by the town. To the N. of the Grand Bassin, and connected with it by the Bassin de Jonction, is the Bassin duKattendtk (PI. B, 1), 1050 yds. long and 150 yds. wide, with an area of 230 acres, constructed by the town in 1853-60. It is connected with the river by a sluice. — The transatlantic steamers of the Red Star Line lie at the Quai du Rhin (PI. B, 1, 2); tickets (50 c.) admitting visitors to inspect these vessels are issued on the quay, except from 12-2 p.m. To the N. of the sluice are several Cales Seches, or dry docks, connected with the Bassin du Kattendyk by sluice-gates. In the angle between the N. end of the Kattendyk and the dry docks (PI. B, 1) Tete de Flandre. ANTWERP. 15. Route. 175 was situated the factory of CorvUain, the explosion in which in 1889 wrought such terrihle havoc. — To the N.W. are the Bassin Lefebvre, completed in 1886 , the largest of all , with an area of 320 acres, and the Bassin America (with enormous cylindrical petroleum-tanks). The ,view from this point of the entire length of the quays as far as the S. harbour conveys an excellent idea of the enormous extent of the port and its dependencies. To the E. of the Bassin du Kattendyk lie the Bassin aux Bois , the Bassin de la Campine , and the Bassin Asia. A good survey of Antwerp is obtained from Vlaamsch Hoofd, French Ste. Anne or Tete de Flandre (PI. A, 4; Restaurant Kur- saal , Belvedere , farther down, both unpretending, frequented on tine afternoons), on the left bank of the Schelde, to which a steamer crosses from the QuaiVan Dyck (PI. B, 3) every ^2 ^^i"- ("^ summer on Sun., Mon., and Thurs. afternoon every 1/4 hr. ; fare there and back 1st cl. 30 c. , tickets obtained under the Proraenoirs). — Pleasant walk downstream on the dyke between the Schelde and the polder. Railway through the Waasland to Ghent, see p. 63. The Polygone de Brasschaet (Hotel St. Antoine ; steam-tramway, p. 139), a large artillery-range, 10 M. to the N.E. of Antwerp, may be visited only with permission of the minister of war. The park of Count Reusens, to which admission is courteously granted, deserves a visit. About 21 M. to the N.E. of Antwerp and about 10 M. from Turnhout (p. 137; steam-tramway, p. 139), lies Hoogstraeten CJ7d/4-13/4 hr. ; fares 3 fr. 20, 2 fr. 40, 1 fr. 60 c.) is the prolongation of this line to the N., but the trains do not always correspond. At (2V2 M.) Seneffe a battle was fought in 1674 between Prince Conde and William III. of Orange -, and the Austrians were defeated here by the French under Marceau and Olivier on 2nd July, 1794. — 5 M. Feluy-Arquennes. 8V2 M. Nivelles- Novel, to the N. of Nivelles (p. 131) ; 91/2 M. Baulers, the junction of this line with that from Brussels to Luttre and Charleroi (p. 131). 14 M. Genappe (Hotel des Vot/ageurs), a village with 1680 inhab., is frequently mentioned in connection with the Battle of Waterloo (comp. p. 118). About 4 M. to the S. is situated Q,uatrebras, which derives its name from the 'four arms' of the roads diverging hence to Charleroi, Ifivelles, Brussels, and Ifamur. Here on 16th June, 1815, a battle was fought between Key's division and a part of the British army with its Ger man and Belgian contingents. The French numbered about 17,000 men, the Allies 18,000; but of the latter 8000 only were British and' German, and on the remaining 10,000 no reliance whatever could be placed. Practi- cally, therefore, the Allies were far outnumbered. At first, shortly after 2 p.m., the success of the French, who were opposed by the Belgians only, was complete; but their progress was soon arrested by the British and' German troops, and the battle raged with the utmost fury till dusk. Prodigies of valour were, as usual, performed by the 93rd Highlanders; and most of the German troops (Hanoverians and Brunswickers) behaved with great bravery, although young and inexperienced. At one juncture the Duke of Wellington himself became involved, and only escaped by putting his horse to full gallop. About 4 o'clock the gallant Duke of Brunswick fell, while endeavouring to rally his troops. Towards the close of the battle the tide of success turned decidedly in favour of the Allies. Ney, to his great indignation, now learned that Erlon's corps, which had at first been ordered to support him , and would doubtless have ensured the victory to the French, had received fresh orders from to Namur. CHARLEROI. 20. Route. 187 Napoleon to move towards St. Amand to oppose the Prussians there. The brave marshaPs discomfiture was complete, his troops were totally defeated, and under cover of the increasing darkness they retreated to their original position at Frasne. The village of Frasne, the headquarters of Ney on 16th June, lies 3/4 M. beyond Quatrebras , in the direction of Charleroi. The spirited pursuit of the French by the Prussians on the night after the Battle of Waterloo extended thus far, more than 6 M. from the battle-field. The ruined abbey of Villers (p. 208) lies 3 31. to the W. of Genappe. I6V2 M. Bousval; I8V2 M. Noirhat; 20'/2 M. Court- Si- Etienne (p. 208), where the train reaches the Charleroi and Louvain line. 221/2 31. Ottignies. Thence to Wavre and Louvain, see p. 203. Beyond Manage are stations Oodarville, 6ouy-lez-Pieton, Pont- h-Celles, and (571/2 M.) Luttre(i^. 131). The train traverses a more hilly district, describing numerous curves , and crossing the Char- leroi Canal several times. Beyond a deep cutting, a beautiful un- dulating and wooded district is entered. 61 7.2 M. Courcelles-Motte is the junction of the line to Pieton (p. 185) via Trazegnies ^ the church of which contains the *Toml) of Gillon de Trazegnies and Jacqueline deLalaing,hy Duquesnoy (branch-line to Jumet, p. 131). 621/2 M. Roux; 64 M. Marchienne, near which, to the W., lies the chateau of Monceau, the property of Baron Houcart, with rich col- lections of pictures and other works of art. The lofty chimneys of coal-mines," furnaces, iron-foundries, and glass-works are seen in every direction. There are no fewer than 75 different seams of coal in the vicinity of Charleroi, some of which extend to a depth of 3000 to 4000 ft. Strangers are usually admitted without difficulty to view the works. The largest establishments at 3Iarchienne (see above) are the 'Alliance' rolling-mills, the 'Slnnceau' and 'Providence' foundries, F. Thiebault ifeCo.'s wire-works, and the 'Etoile' glass-works. 3I3I. E. de Cortiez and L. de Nimal possess collections of art that are well worth a visit. The Brussels Canal is crowded with shipping. The line now reaches the Sambre , which it crosses repeatedly before arriving at Namur. 67 M. Charleroi (*Beukeleers, with the Taverne du Cercle, Rue du College; *Dourin., near the station; Hotel- Restaurant de VEspe- rance, close by), a town with 23,000 inhab., the centre of the Belgian iron industry, was founded by Charles II. of Spain in 1666, in honour of whom the name(Charnoy) of the village which then occupied the site was changed to Charleroi. Under Louis XIV. it was fortified by Vauban. In 1794 it was besieged four times by the French, to whom it was ultimately surrendered on the eve of the Battle of Fleurus (p. 208), after the garrison had been reduced to the utmost extremities. On 23rd May, 1794, the French were totally defeated here by the Austrian Gen. Kaunitz. The fortifications were reconstructed in 1816, but are now converted into promenades. Near the station is a prison in the Gothic style. The Musee Archeologique, in the Boul. de TOuest, contains prehistoric, Roman, and Fran kish antiquities found in this district, and also a mineralogical cabinet (adm. Sun. 10-5, Mon., Tues., Thurs. 12-5 ; to strangers at other times also for a fee). The 188 Route 20. CHIMAY. From Ghent church of St. Antoine, in the lower town, contains good examples of the native painters F. J. Navez (d. 1869) and Portaels (b. 1818). In the upper part of the town (Ville Haute) are the Palais de Justice and the church of St. Christophe. Steam-tramways unite Charleroi with (5M.) Montigny-Le Tilleul; (I3/4M.) Mont-iur-Marchienne ; (2 M.) Lodelinsart (p. 208), and (T'/z M.) Chdtekt (see below). Charier oi-Erquelinnes- Paris ^ in 6'/2-8hrs., see Baedeker's Paris. Near (5'/2 M.) Landelies are the rnins of the celebrated abbey of Aulne. Farther on is the prettily situated little town of T/iuin-A'^ord (Hotel Beausejour). Charleroi- Wavre- Loiivain, see R. 26. From Charleroi to Vireux, 4OV2 M., railway in 2 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 20, 3 fr. 90, 2 fr. 60 c). From (12 M.) Berzde branch-lines diverge to Thuillies (see below) and to Laneffe; from (14 M.) Walcourt, which contains an ancient Gothic pilgrimage-church, two others diverge to Florennes and Philippeville and to Morialme. — From (29 M.) Mariemhourg (Hotel du Commerce) a branch-railway leads to the ancient and picturesque little town of Couvin (Hdt. du Chemiii de Fer^ well spoken of). Mariembourg is the junction for a line from Hastiere to Paris via Anor and Laon, on which, beyond the Lake of Vivelles, is (10 M.) Ohimay (Hdt. de VCnivers; du Commerce; Bel- levue)y a town with 3000 inhab., where the beautiful park and chateau of the prince of that name are situated (no admission). A statue of Froissart, the chronicler, who died at Chimay in 1410, has been erected in front of the Hotel de TUnivers. — Among the hills of Scourmont, 6 M. to the S., is a model- farm belonging to the monastery of La Trappe. — Then Nismes (Hotel du Cheval Volant ; du Commerce ; Rail. Restaurant). Near the station is the striking Roche h Lomme. [A pleasant walk may be taken hence in the valley nf the Viroin to (2 hrs.) Olloy., see below. cJn a steep rock near Dourbes (Au Lion Beige) is the ruin of *Haute Roche., destroyed by Henry II. in 1554; fine rock scenery.] — Then Olloy (see above) and Vierves, with a castellated chateau. — 4OV2 M. Vireux, the French frontier-station, lies on the Meuse, above the fortress of Givet (p. 194). Beyond Vireux the line proceeds to Rheims and Paris. Beyond Charleroi the Namur train crosses the Philippeville road, and passes the numerous metal-works of Marcinelle, (69 M.) Couillet (branch-line to Jamioulx), and (71 M.) Chdtelineau, the junction of the lines to Fleurus (p. 208), Jumet (p. 131), Lodelinsart (p. 208), Gilly, and Givet. In the church of St. Barthelemy is a handsome tomb of the Merode family. Opposite Chatelineau lies the busy little town of Chdtelet, with 10,000 inhabitants. From Chatelineau to Givet, 31V-2 M., railway in I3/4 hr. (fares 4 fr. 20, 3 fr. 10, 2 fr. 10 c); a branch-line traversing a busy manufacturing and mining district, via Acoz (branch to Meitet, see p. 188), Gerpinnes (with a Roman villa; in the church of St. Nicholas the fine Renaissance reliquary of Ste. Rolande), Orel ( Morialmi), Pavilions (Stave), etc. Doische is the last Belgian, Givet (p. 194) the first French station. The Sambre winds through beautiful grassy valleys, sometimes skirting wooded hills. 73 M. Le Campinaire; 73^/2 M. Farciennes, with a dilapidated old chateau ; 76^/2 M. Tamines. From Tamine.s to Fleckus (p. 208), 5'/2 M., railway in about 20 minutes ; to Gembloux (p. 198), 121/2 M., railway in 3/* l^r., via J emeppe-sur- Sambre (see below) and (572 M.) Spy-Onoz (p. 191). From Tamines to Dinant, 29 M., railway in I3/4 hr. The chief stations are (I3V2M.) Mettet (Croix de Bourgogne), junction for the branch-line to Acoz (see above)-, Denie-Maredsous (Hot. Bellevue), with an interesting Bene- dictine convent built in 1876; and (2OV2 M.) Falaen. About 1 M. from the last-named station, in the valley of the Molign&e, are the imposing and to NamuT. NAMUR. 20. Route. 1 89 picturesquely situated ruins of tlie castle of '■" Montaigle^ tbe finest relic of the kind in Belgium. This stronghold, founded in the 13th cent, and partly rebuilt after numerous sieges, played a prominent part in the history of the district, and was blown up by the French in 1558, four years after the destruction of Bouvignes (p. 193). In the vicinity are the Qrotte du Sureau and other prehisloric caverns. — 251/2 M. AnMe., on the Meuse; 29 W. Dinant (p. 193). To the right is situated the suppressed abbey of 8te. Marie d'Oignies, now an extensive mirror-manufactory. Stations : Auvelais^ Jemeppe-sur- Sambre (p. 188), Moustier^ &nd. Franiere. To the right of (84 M.) Floreffe (Hotel de la Station), with glass-works, picturesquely situated on an eminence, rises a seminary for priests, formerly a Praemonstratensian abbey. About '^/^ M. from the station areta slactite caves, named Grottes de Floreffe (adm. 1-3 pers. 3 fr,, each additional pers. 2 fr.), at the entrance to which are exhibited some prehistoric relics and Roman coins. Le Preat^ the hill above the grotto, is surmounted by a castle built in the antique style (restaurant). The recently discovered Grottes Biernaux, with cur- ious stalactite formations, are perhaps more interesting (guide in the estaminet to the right of the road, 1-1 V2 fr. each pers.). To the left, farther on , are the abbey-buildings of Malonne, now a seminary for teachers, vp^ith an ancient church. On the hill is a new fort (steam-tramway, see p. 191). — 861/2 M. Flawinne. The valley of the Sambre here is thickly studded with ancient cha- teaux, modern villas, and manufactories. 891/2 M' Namnr. — Hotels. *H6tel D'Harscamp, Marche aux Arbres 4 (PI. C, 3), an old-established house, R. & L. 2V2-6, A. 3/^, B. 11/4, d^j. 3, D. 4, pens, from 10, omn. s/^ fr.^ good wine 5 de Hollande, with the Cafe'- Restaurant Aigret, R., L., v 1 fr.) ; six locks are passed with 10 min. halt at each. — The left bank of the river is recommended to pedestrians. The village-inns on the banks of the river are generally good, but are often full in summer. The valley of tlie Meuse above Namur is narrow , and enclosed by wooded Mils and frowning cliffs. Tbe banks are enlivened with picturesque villages and country-houses. Immediately after quitting the station, the train crosses the Meuse, remaining on the right bank until Dinant is nearly reached. 2 M. Jambes (p. 192). 5 M. Dave (Hotel du Nord), with an ancient chateau (restored) and park belonging to the Duke of Feruan-Nunez (adm. on applica- tion to the head-gardener) , near which rises the huge and preci- pitous Rocher de Neviau. On the opposite (left) bank is Wepion (Delvigne); steam-tramway, see p. 191. — The train passes below the cliffs of Tailfer and the rocks of Frene , and beyond a tunnel reaches (81/2 M.) Lustin (Hotel du Midi), which is connected by an iron bridge with Profondeville and the marble quarries on the left bank. The village of Lustin lies IV2 M. to the E., 555 ft. above the river. Farther on, on the left bank, appear JSwrnot and Riviere, with a chateau. On the right bank, by the railway, is the rock Frappe-Cul, with the cavern oiChauveau. — 10 ^2 M. Godinne (Hot. Central; Hot. desEtrangers). On the other side of the river is RouiUon , with the chateau of M. de Montpellier. The numerous towers of the well-preserved castle of Bioulx (16th cent.) rise 3 M. to the W. The scenery between Rouillon and Dinant is remarkably picturesque. Above the village rises a precipitous tuffstone-rock, named La Roche aux Corneilles ('Roche aux Chauwes' in the patois of the district), from the flocks of jackdaws which generally hover round it. Then, also on the left bank, the chateau of Hun, with a park. On the ridge stands a new chateau. A tunnel carries the line through the Rocher de Faulx. 121/2 M. Yvoir (Hotel des Touristes; Ville de Bruxelles; Hot. du Bocq), at the influx of the Bocq, is connected by means of a hand- some bridge with the left bank (Hot. de la Roche). In the vicinity are extensive marble quarries. In the W. lateral valley of the Mo- lignee are several chateaux and a foundry occupying the site of the Cistercian abbey of Moulins. — 3 M. to the S.W. are the ruins of Montaigle (p. 189). About 6 M. farther up in the narrow valley of the Bocq (best reached by the road via Evrehailles, Purnode, and Dorinne) are the village (Cheval Blanc) and chateau of Spontin, of the i7th cent, (one of the towers, 13th cent.), formerly in the possession of the Beaufort-Spontin family. The vil lage-church is interesting. Thence a road continues to follow the pictur DINANT. 21. Route. 193 esque vallej' via Senenne to the (21/2 M.) old, chateau of Mouffrin (16th cent., recently restored; park open to the public) and to (I-IV4 M.) Natoye (p. 198), The railway crosses the Meuse, quitting the right bank. On the left bank is Anhee , near which is the chateau of Senenne.^ with a hotel-pension. On the right bank are the ruins of the fortress of Poilvache, on a lofty rock, destroyed by the French in 1554 (adm. 50 c). Somewhat higher up are the ruins of the Tour de Monay. Picturesquely situated at the foot of Poilvache is the village of Houx^ with a chateau of Count Levignan. — Farther on we i^&&sBouvigne3 (Hot.-Rest. Delens Gilson), one of the most venerable towns in the district, which was formerly engaged in constant feuds with Dinant, but has now dwindled down to a mere village. The old ruined tower oiCreve-Coeur is a conspicuous object here. A romantic story attaches to it in connection with the siege of the town by the French in 1654. Three beautiful women, left as the sole survivors after the death of their husbands with the rest of the garrison , are said to have thrown themselves from the summit of the tower in sight of the besiegers, and to have been dashed to pieces on the rocks below. 171/2 M. Dinant. — Hotels. *H6tel des Postes, pleasantly situated, near the station , R. & L. from 21/2, A. s/j, B. l>/4, D. 31/2, S. 2V2, pens, from T fr, ; 'T£te d"Ok, with terraced gardens in the rocks, R., L., & A. 31/4-33/4, B. 1, dej. 21/2, D. 8, pens. 8-9, omn. V2 fr. ; Hot. Klesaal, on the Meuse, R., L., & A. 4-51/2, B. I1/4, dej. 21/2. D. 3'/2. pens. 8-12 fr. •, Hotel DES Familles (formerly Bellevue), at the bridge, R., L., & A. 21/2, B. 1, D. 21/2, S. 2, pens. l-V/-z fr. ; Hotel-Restaueant du Cercle Catholiqde; DES Ardennes; Codbonne, at the station. — Dr. William's Hydropathic Establishment. Carriages at J. Gigot's, Place St. Nicolas 11: to Freyr (p. 194), with one horse 5, two horses 8 fr. Steamboats. To Namur, see p. 190. — To Hastiere (p. 194) daily in July and August. Dinant, a town with 7400 inhab., is picturesquely situated on the right bank of the Meuse, at the base of barren limestone cliffs, which are crowned by a fortress. An iron bridge , commanding a fine view, crosses the river to the suburb of St. Medard on the left bank, with the railway-station. In 1467 the inhabitants of Dinant, having roused the anger of Philippe le Bon, Duke of Burgundy , by acts of insubordination, paid dearly for their temerity. The Duke, accompanied by his son Charles the Bold , marched against the town, besieged and took it, and is said to have caused 800 of the population (estimated at 30,000) to be drowned in the Meuse. In 1554 the town was taken by storm by the French under the Due de Nevers, and plundered. In 1675 it was again taken by the French. The 'dinanderies', or chased copper and brass wares of Dinant were formerly in high repute. The 'couques de Dinant' are cakes not unlike gingerbread. The church of Notre Dame, a handsome edifice of the 13th cent. in the Gothic style, but with a few remaining traces of the transition period, has recently been restored. The portals are worthy of notice. The tower is upwards of 200 ft. in height. — The old Hotel ie Ville, Baedeker's Belgium and Holland, 12th Edit. 13 194 Route 21. GIVET. From Namur on the Meuse, contains some paintings by Wiertz (p. Ill), who was horn in Dinant. A monument is to he erected to him on the hill on the right bank. — At the back of the church are steps in the rock, 408 in number, leading to the citadel, which was sold in 1879 for 7000 fr. Fine, but limited view from the top (50 c). — Better views of the town and river are commanded from the garden of the Casino (strangers admitted). Rue Grande 27, which rises in terraces, and from the Jardin de Montfat (adm. 75 c), in the Rue En-Rhe'e. The latter (adm. 75 c.) contains a cavern called the Grotte de Montfat, from which a spiral staircase leads up a narrow shaft to the highest point of the garden. The neighbouring Palais de Justice is a tasteful modern building in the Renaissance style. — A path descends behind the citadel to the Fonds de Leffe, a narrow rocky ravine with numerous water-mUls , so called after Leffe , the N. suburb of Dinant. From Dinant to Jemelle {Trou de Han^ etc.), see E. 22 ; to Tamines^ p. 188. The railway to Givet continues to follow the left bank of the Meuse. On the right bank appear the houses of the suburb of Les Rivages, and (1 M. above Dinant) the bold pinnacle of rock called the Roche d. Bayard (the name of the horse of the 'Quatre Fils d'Aymon', which left a hoof-mark here as it sprang over the valley, when pursued by Charlemagne). In the vicinity are quarries of black marble. Farther on we seethe long viaduct of the Lesse Valley railway and the village of Anseremme (p. 195), on the right bank. A short tunnel carries the railway through the cliffs of Moniat, beyond which we pass one of the finest points in the valley of the Meuse. Here is situated the Chateau of Freyr (said to be named after the goddess Freya), the ancestral seat of the Beaufort-Spontin family, with well-kept gardens, situated at the foot of wooded hills on the left bank of the river. Easily accessible stalactite cavern in the vicinity. Opposite , precipitous rocks of grotesque shapes rise immediately from the river. 22 V2 M. Waulsort (Hotel de la Meuse; *H6teI-Pens. Martinet), with a large chateau (formerly a Benedictine abbey) and fine garden. Opposite is the Rocher du Chien and farther up are the scanty ruins of the Chateau Thierry. — 26 M. Hastier e- Lav aux (*H6tel de BeUevue, plain ; Hot. d'Hastiere ; du Midi) , junction of the line via Doische to Mariembourg (p. 188). On the right bank of the Meuse, here spanned by a handsome new bridge, is the abbey- church of Hastiere, founded in the 7th cent. ; the present building is a basilica of 1033, with a choir of 1260 (recently restored). — 28y2 M. Heer-Agimonty with the Belgian custom-house, and near the ruined Chateau Agimont. On the right bank red marble is quar- ried. — We then cross the French border. 31 M. Givet (*Mont d'Or, R. 2V2-5, B. 1, D. inch wine 3V2, omn. 1/2 ^r. ; Ancre) , with 7000 inhab., picturesquely situated on the Meuse, which is crossed by a bridge here (fine view), consists to Givet. SEDAN. 27. Route. 195 of Oivet-St-Hilaire on the left bank, at the base of the steep hill on which the fort of Charlemont lies, and Givet- Notre- Dame on the right bank. Givet- St-Hilaire contains the church of St. Hilaire, built by Vauban, and a monument to the composer Mehul (d. 1818), who was born here. The fortifications of the town were razed in 1892. Givet is connected with Charleroi by two railways, the Vireux- Mariembourg-Charleroi (p. 188) , and the Givet-Acoz-Chatelineau line (p. 188); journey by the former 4^4, by the latter 21/4 hrs. From Givet to Sedan, 48 M., railway in 21/2 hrs., via Mizih'es-Charle- ville ('Hotel du Nord, at the station), two towns adjoining each other, with 6600 and 16,900 inhab. respectively. Sedan (Hdtel de V Europe; Croix d'Or), a prettily situated town with 20,100 inhal). , formerly fortified. Here a memorable battle took place between the Germans and French on 1st Sept., 1870, terminating in the total defeat of the latter and the capture of the emperor and 83,000 men (including 1 marshal, 39 generals, 230 staff-officers, and 3000 other officers). The French army numbered 124,000 men, the German 240,000, but part of the latter only was actually engaged. Carriages and guides to the battle- field may be obtained at the hotels. Those who desire only a rapid visit to the battlefield before return- ing via Metz , should alight at Donchery , the station before Sedan. From the station we proceed straight on through the village, cross the Meuse, and follow the Sedan road on the left bank. At the (1^/4 M.) cross-roads (about 590 ft. above the sea-level) below Frinois^ the road to the left leads in a few minutes to the chateau of Bellevue, where on the morning of Sept. 2nd the capitulation was signed by General v. Moltke and General de Wimpffen, and where a little later the meeting between King William of Prussia and Napoleon III. took place. The road to the right leads in about IV2 M. to a height to the S.W. of Frenois, where King William had his headquarters during the battle , and where on the evening of Sept. 1st he received Napoleon's letter. As we continue to follow the road to Sedan we have a survey of the hilly district beyond the Meuse to the N.E., which was the scene of operations of the N. wing of the French army, and of the desperate charges of the French cavalry at Floing. All the ]S. heights were occupied by the Prussians on the evening of Sept. 1st, while the Prussian guards, forming part of the army of the Meuse, advanced from the N.E. Sedan lies about I1/2 M. from the cross-roads near Bellevue. We enter the town through the suburb of Torcy, where the station (now removed farther to the S.E.) stood before 1870, cross the Meuse, and reach the market-place, in which stands a monument to Marshal Turenne, born at Sedan in 1611. Thence turning to the right (S.E.) we traverse the suburb of Balan to (V4 hr.) Bazeilles, the possession of which was obstinately con- tested for seven hours on the day of the battle. At the N. end of the village is the small tavern 'A la Derniere Cartouche', which was the only house in the village that escaped the flames, and now contains a 'Musee' of relics connected with the battle. A pyramid in the adjoining cemetery marks the common grave of more than 2000 French and Germans. The rail- way-station of Bazeilles is at the S. end of the village, 1/2 M. farther on. 22. From Dinant to Jemelle. Han-snr-Lesse. 23 M. Railway in I1/4 hr. (fares 3 fr. 50, 2 fr. 65, 1 fr. 75 c). Dinantj see p. 193. The railway ascends the left bank of the Meuse and crosses it by means of a long viaduct. 13/4 M. Anseremme (*H6tel des Etrangers ; Repos des Artistes), a pretty village surmounted by overhanging cliffs, near the mouth of the Lesse, up the valley of which the railway runs. 13* 196 Route 22. ROCHEFORT. From Din ant A pleasant excursion may be made into the Valley of the Lesse, the curious cliflF-tormations of which are covered with a thick growth of trees and pierced with numerous caves. The paths are sometimes fatiguing, and local guides are useful. The road quits Anseremme near the Hotel Eepos des Artistes and leads over the hill on the right hank of the Lesse to the modern chateau of Letse and to a (2V2 M.) mill (Inn), whence we ferry over to the left bank, in order to obtain a view of the castle of Walzin (see below) and of the grotesque rock- formations on the right bank. A rough path leads hence along the wooded left bank to (3 M.) Chdleux, whence we ferry to the right bank. A steep path ascends to the high -lying village of (1 hr.) Furfooz; fine retrospect of the valley from the top. INear Furfooz are the prehistoric grottoes Trou des Nutans., Trou du Frontal., and Trou Rosette (guide, 1 fr.). We now proceed to the E. to the (21/4 M.) ancient chateau of Wh-e or Celles., picturesquely situated in a lateral valley; farther up is the modern chateau of Miranda., in the English Gothic style; both belong to Count Liedekercke Beaufort. Farther on we reach Celles (see below). Numerous bridges and tunnels are passed as the train ascends the valley of the Lesse. To the left, on the right hank of the stream, is the modern chateau of Lesse, and farther on. romantically situat- ed on a precipitous cliff, is the castle of Walzin (13th cent. ), once the property of the De la Marck family, now of M. Brugmann. A little farther up, on a lofty crag, rises the tower of Cavrenne. 6 M. Gendron is the station for the village of Celles, with its ancient Romanesque church, 2^/2 M. distant. — To the left, beyond the Ivoigne, appear the towers of the royal chateau of Ardenne. 9^/.2 M. Houyet (Hotel de la Lesse) is the junction of a branch- line to (6 M.) Beauraing (Hot. du Centre; du Sud), which is now being extended to (6M. farther) Givet (p. 194). The fine chateau of Beauraing with its art-treasures, was burned in 1889. 12 M. Havenne; I2Y2 M. Wanlin; 131/2 M. Vignie, near which is the royal chateau of Ciergnon. — 15 M. Villers-sur-Lesse. 18 M. Eprave (Hotel Malarm; Hotel Marneffe), at the confluence of the Lomme and the Lesse, is the station for the Grottoes of Han- sur-Lesse (see below; information obtained at the hotels). In the *Trou du Bond Tienne, to the E. of Eprave, the branch of the Lomme which disappears in the grottoes of Rochefort (p. 196), bursts forth again to the light of day. — In the vicinity is an interesting Roman camp, where numerous coins have been found; also Celtic and Prankish graves. 2OV2 M. Rochefort {*H6tel Biron , Hotel de VEtoile , in both R., L., & A. 11 2-2, B. 3/4, dej.2, D. 2V2, pens. 5-6 fr. ; Hotel Rogister, pens, from 41/2 fi"-)' "^i*^ 2400 inhab., formerly the cap- ital of the County of Ardennes, occupies an elevated site on the Lomme, commanded by the ruins of an old castle (adm. 50 c. ; view). The Romanesque Church, erected after plans by Cluysenaerin 1871, is noteworthy. Fine view from the Loretto Chapel. Opposite is the modern chateau of Beauregard. The environs are remarkable for a number of curious caverns in the limestone rock. The entrance to the *Grotte de Rochefort, one of the finest and most easily visited , is at the upper end of the town. It is the property of a company which has also built a Casino, with 'Salles de Jeu' etc. Admis- sion to the grotto 4 fr. (reduction for parties). A rapid visit to it takes 11/4-2 hours. The '■Salle des Merveilks\ '■Salle du SabbaV (said to be up- iAimprime par 1 59 400 .^^-r^-^ 2 Warner fi-Debos^eipzig Kilometres to Jemelle. OTTIGNIES. 22. Route. 197 wards of 250 ft. high) , ' Val d^Enfer\ and '■Let Arcades\ the finest points, are illuminated* with magnesium and Bengal lights. 23 M. Jemelle (p. 198). Eprave and Rochbfort are the usual starting-points for visitors to the Grotto of Han-sur-Lesse, which lies 21/2 M. from the former and 3/4 M. from the latter. In summer the omnibuses of the Hotel Biron ply regularly from Rochefort to the Grotto [return-fare 2fr.). The village of Han-sur-Lesse (Hotel de Bellevue S/- de la Grotte, R., L., & A. IV2 fr., B. 60 c, de'j. 2, D. 21/2, pens. 41/2 fr. ; *H6fe? du Pavilion, R., L., &A.3, B. 1, de'j. 2, D.2V2, pens. 6, omn. Ifr.) lies on the N. side of a range of hills, through which the Lesse forces its way by the so-called Trou de Han or de Belvaux. The entrance to the *Trou de Han lies about 11/2 ^- itova. Han, on the S. side of the above-mentioned range of hills; the omnibus from Rochefort drives direct to the cavern without touch- ing at Han. The pedestrian should, however, secure the services of a guide at the hotel in Han (one of the brothers Lanoy). Admission for a single visitor 7 fr. ; two or more, 5 fr. each ; 2 fr. more is exacted for awakening the echoes by a pistol-shot, for 1-4 pers., and 50 c. for each additional person; fee to the guide extra. The Guide-Al- bum du Voyageur h la Grotte de Han (IV2 fr.) contains a good plan of the entire cavern, the visit to which occupies 2-4 hrs. The Trou de Han is nearly 1 M. in length and consists of a series of chambers, opening into each other, and varying in height. The numer- ous stalactite -formations have been fancifully named in accordance with their forms: Trone de Pluion, Boudoir de Proserpine, Galerie de la Grenouille, etc. The most imposing chambers are the "Salle du Dome, which is 500 ft. long, 450 ft. wide, and 180 ft. high, and the Merveilleuses, four chambers with the most beautiful stalactites. Visitors emerge at the other end in a boat. August, September , and October are the best mouths for inspecting the cavern ; in spring the swollen state of the river often ren- ders access impossible. The cave has been visited by tourists since 1814. The stalactites have unfortunately been sadly blackened by torches. Scarcely V2 M. farther on is the Perte de la Lesse, also well worth a visit, where the river dashes into a subterranean abyss. 23. From Brussels to Luxembourg via Namur. 137 M. Railway in 61/2 hrs. (fares 22 fr., 16 fr. 45, 8 fr. 70 c). The trains start from the Station du Quartier Leopold (p. 70), and most of them also from the Station du Nord. — 1 M. Etterbeek, a suburb of Brussels, whence the line to Tervueren diverges. The next stations, Watermael, Boitsfort, and Groenendael (with a ruined convent) are favourite resorts of the citizens of Brussels (horse races, see p. 75). From (9 M.) La Hulpe, with the imposing cha- teau of Argenteuil, built by Cluysenaar, the property of Count de Meeus, a glimpse is obtained to the right of the Mound of the Lion (p. 127) on the distant field of Waterloo. On the left, near Rixen- sart, is a chateau of Count Merode. 15 M. Ottignies is the point of intersection of the Louvain- Charleroi (R. 26) and Louvain - Manage - Mons (p. 186) lines. — 1 98 Route 23. ST. HUBERT. From Brussels I7Y2M. Mont St. Guibert, with pretty environs. On the right is the chateau of Birbaix^ with fine gardens. At Chastre the Province of Bra- bant is quitted , and that of Namur entered. — 24 M. Gemhloux, junction for the lines to Fleurus and Ramillies-Landen (p. 202) and for a branch-line to Tamines (p. 188). An old abbey here con- tains the royal agricultural institution. 28^2 M. St. Denis-Bovesse; 31 M. Rhisnes. About I1/2 ^1- hence is the interesting chateau of Falize, on the left side of the picturesque Houyol valley. The train passes through several cuttings in the blue limestone rocks , and affords a strikingly picturesque view of — • 35 M. Namnr (see p. 189). The line now intersects the Forest of Ardennes, a wild, moun- tainous district , affording many picturesque views. Immediately after quitting Namur the train crosses the Meuse and commands another remarkably fine panorama of the town and its citadel. 37 M. Jambes; 40^2 M. Naninne; 45 M. Courriere; 46 M. Assesse; 491/2 M. Natoye. The line runs hence to Ciney through the valley of the upper Bocq (comp. p. 192). — 53 M. Ciney (Hotel du Commerce; Grand Hotel; Bellevue; Hot. du Condroz), the capital of the Condroz (Condrusi of the Romans), as the district between the Meuse and Ourthe was once called, boasts of a handsome new town hall (route to Huy and Landen, seep. 228). — 59 M. Leignon ; 591/0 Haversin, 11/2 M. to the S.E. of which is the sumptuous chateau oi Serain- champs, formerly in the possession of the De la Marcks , now the property of the Marquis of Senzeilles. From (651/2 M.) Aye an omnibus runs (in ^/o hr. ; 1/2 fr-) to Marche (p. 224). — 661/2 M. Marloie (Hotel Lambert), where the direct line to Liege (Eigne de V Ourthe) diverges (p. 224). The line now descends considerably, and affords a beautiful view of the valley of the Wamme to the left. — 701/2 M. Jemelle (Hotel Ledoux), with numerous marble and limestone quarries and lime-kilns, lies on the Wamme and the Lomme, a tributary of the Lesse. Hence to Dinant, see R. 22. — About IY2 M. from Jemelle are the remains of a Roman villa. 721/2 M. Forrieres. 76 M. Grupont (Hot. Masset). A steam- tramway plies hence to (151/2 M.). Beauraing (p. 196), via Tellin, Wellin (Hot. de TUnivers), at the junction of the road to Han-sur- Lesse (p. 197), and Revogne, with a stalactite grotto (adm. 21/2 fr.). — The train follows the sinuosities of the Lomme. To the left, on a rocky buttress, rises the strikingly picturesque Chateau Mirwart, with its five towers. From (821/2 M.) Poix (Hot. Guillaume) a branch-railway runs in 25 min. to (41/2 M.) St. Hubert (Hotel du Luxembourg), a town with 2500 inhab., celebrated for the chapel containing the relics of the saint who has given his name to the place. The abbey has been converted into a Reformatory for young criminals. The Church, in the late-Gothic style, with double aisles and interesting crypt, to Luxembourg. ARLON. 23. Route. 199 dates from tlie IGth cent, (facade and towers erected in 1700). A chapel to the lett of the choir con tains the cenotaph of St. Hubert, adorned with bas-reliefs by W. Geefs, and the choir itself has some tine wood-carving. The forest of St. Hubert is one of the largest in Belgium. St. Hdbert, the tutelary saint of sportsmen, was once a profligate and impious prince , who did not scruple to indulge in the pleasures of the chase even on the solemn fast -days appointed by the Church. While thus irreverently engaged on the holy fast of Good Friday, he suddenly beheld the miraculous apparition of a stag with a cross growing out of its forehead between its antlers. Thus warned by Heaven of the danger of adhering to his sinful courses, he at once desisted from the hunt, vol- untarily relinquished all the honours and advantages of his noble rank, and determined thenceforth to devote himself to a life of piety and self- abnegation. He accordingly presented the whole of his fortune to the Church, became a monk, and founded the abbey and church which are still called by his name. The holy man is said to have enjoyed miracu- lous powers during his life-time, and long after his death numerous mir- acles were wrought by means of his relics. 85 M. Hatrival. — 91 M. Libramont (Hotel Bellevue, plain), on the watershed between the Lesse and the Semois, is the station for Recogne, a village to the right, on the road to Bouillon [p. 200) and Sedan, the route by which Napoleon III., accompanied by French and Prussian offlfers and a Belgian escort , proceeded to Libramont on 4th Sept., 1870, to take the train for Germany. Fkom Libramont to Gouvy, 36Vi! M., branch-railway in 11/2-27* hrs. (fares 4 fr. 50, 3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 25 c). Stations: Bernimont , Wideumont- Bercheux^ Morhet^ Sihret. — 18 M. Bastogne (Le Brun; Collin),^ an old town of 2000 inhab., surnamed Paris-en- Ardenne; the church, dating from the 15th cent., contains some curious vaulting, ancient mural paintings, and a figure of 8t. Christopher executed in 1520. A branch-railway runs from Bastogne, via (5 M.) Benonchamps, ScMmpach, and Schltif, to Wiltz{T^. 241), and through the idyllic valley of the Wiltz via Mevckholz (p. 240) to Kauien- hack (p. 240) in the grand-duchy of Luxembourg. — From (24 M.) Boufcy a steam-tramway plies to (772 M.) Houfifalize (H6t. des Pastes; des Ardennes^ pens. 5 fr. ; de Luxembourg), a picturesquely situated town with 1300 in- hab., the capital of the upper vallev of the Ourthe, with a ruined castle. — 28 M. Tavigiuj. — 36V2 M. Gouvy] see p. 222. Another branch-line runs from Libramont to (7V2 M.) Bertrix (p. 2(X)). 961/2 M. Longlier, station for Neufchdteau (Hotel des Postes ; des Etrangers), with 2000 inhab., once fortified, lies 3/4 M. to the right. — 101 M. Lavaux; 103 M. Mellier. — 106 M. Marbehan (*Cornet's Inn ; Gillet-Rogier),with a new church. A branch-line diverges here to Ste. Marie, Croix-Rouge, Ethe, and (16 M.) Virion (p. 200). IIOV2 M. Habay; 1131/2 M. Pouches. 1191/2 M. Arlon, Flem. Aarlen (*Hotel duNord, R., L., & A. 3, B. 1, D. 21/2) S. 2, omn. 1/2 f^. ; Maison Rouge; Hotel Central, in the market-place; Cafe de la Bourse), a prosperous town with 7200 inhab., situated on a plateau, 1330 ft. above the sea-level, is the capital of the Belgian province of Luxembourg. It was the Orolau- num of the Antoninian itinerary, and was once fortified. Fine view from the terrace adjoining the church and from the military hospital. The Provincial Museum contains a collection of Roman 200 Route 23. FLORENVILLE. antiquities found in the neighbourhood, including some interesting stone-carvings. Steam-tramway to Ethe (see p. 199). — About 3M. to the E., on the Luxembourg frontier, lies the ruined Cistercian abbey of Clairfontaine. Feom Aklon to Longwt (for Longuyon and Nancy), IS'/z M., railway in 3/4 lir. (fares 1 fr. 90, 1 fr. 45, 95 c). Intermediate stations: Autel- Bas, Messanci/, Athus (see below), and Mont St. Martin. (At Autel-Haut are an interesting old church partly of the 10th cent., and a chateau of the 13th cent.) — Longwy (Hotel de FEurope) is the French frontier-station and seat of the custom-house. Feom Arlon to Gedinne, 70 M., railway in 33/4 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 60, 6 fr, 45, 4 fr. 30 c). — As far as (10 M.) Athus (branch to Petange, see below), the line is the same as that to Longwy. It then turns to the W. 15 M. Halancy; 19 M. Signeulx; 2IV2 M. Ruette. 25V2 M. Virton (Hdtel Continental; Cheval Blanc), the junction of the line from Marbehan (p. 199) to Montmidy in France, is a prettily-situated little town with 2500 inhab., whose chief occupation is farming and cattle- breeding. Various Roman coins and antiquities have been found in the neighbourhood. 29 M. Meix-devant-Virton; 8872 M, Belle- Fontaine; 871/2 M. Izel. 401/2 M. Florenville (" Hdtel du Commerce ; Poste), a small town on the Semois, from which many pleasant excursions may be made into the forest of Ardennes. Roman and Frankish antiquities in the vicinity. [The wind- ing valley of the Semois, from Izel (see above) to its junction with the Meuse at Monthermi (see Baedeker's Northern France), is very picturesque. Good quarters may be found at Florenville and Bouillon (see below) and also at Berbeumont "(Hot. Vasseur), up-stream, and at Alle (*Hot. Hofi'mann 5 du Commerce), down-stream.] — About 7V2M. to the S. of Florenville lie the ruins of the abbey of Orval, founded in 1124. The church was rebuilt in the 16-17th centuries. Adjacent is a tolerable inn. 471/2 M. Straimont; 49^/2 M. St. Midard ; 531/2 M. Beririx (Hot. des Postes; branch to Libramont, see p. 199). — From (61 M.) Palisenl (Hotel des Ar- dennes) a steam-tramway (fares 1 fr. 15, 80 c.) plies to (10 M. •, 3/4 hr.) Bouillon (*H6tel de la Poste; Hotel des Ardennes), a little town dominated by the stately ancestral castle of Godfrev of Bouillon. Here Napoleon III. spent the night of 3rd-4th Sept. 1870jn the Hotel de la Poste. To the S.E. of Bouillon lie Les Amerois, a chateau and park of the Count of Flan- ders. From Bouillon to Sedan (p. 195), about 91/2 M. by road. — 65 M. Graide. 70 M. Gedinne (Lion d'Or-, Hot. de la Poste). 123 M. Autel-Bas (see above); 125V2 M. Sterpenich. — 126 M. BetUngen (Luxembourg custom-house; luggage examined), the junction for the line from Ettelbriick (p. 241) to Petingen (p. 241). 128 M. Kapellen; 130 M. Mamer ; 132^/2 M. Bertringen. 136 M. Luxembourg, see p. 243. 24. From Brussels to "Lihge via Louvain. 62 M. Railway in 2-3 trs. (fares 7 fr. 60, 5 fr. 70, 3 fr. 80 c; express 9 fr. 45, 7 fr. 10, 4 fr. 75 c). The train starts from the Station du Nord, and traverses an agricultural and partly-wooded district. At (2 M.) Schaerheek the Malines line diverges (p. 132). 372 M. Haren (Sud; comp. p. 132). 5 M. Dieghem, noted as a pilgrimage-resort and for its fair; steam- tramway to Haecht (p. 136) and to Schaerbeek (Brussels), see p. 74. 6 M. Saventhem, the parish-church of which contains a picture by Van Dyck , representing St. Martin dividing his cloak, a gift of the TIRLEMONT. 24. Route. 201 master himself ; 91/2^. Cortenherg ; 13 M. Velthem; 15 M. Herent, to the left, the large church of the former abhey of Vlierbeek. 18 M. Louvain, see R. 25. Bkanch-line hence to the N. to Rotselaar (with the old tower of Ter- heiden riaing from a pond in the neighbourhood) and (10 M.) Aerschot, a station on the Antwerp and Hasselt line (p. 179), and thence via Westmeer- beek (p. 136) and Norclerwyk-Morckhoven to Herenthals on the Turnhout and Tilburg line (p. 137). — Steam-tramway to Jodoigne (see below). From Louvain to Charleroi, see R. 26. From Louvain to Malines, see p. 136. Beyond Louvain the ahbey of Pare (p. 207) is seen on the right. 21 M. Corbeek-Loo. 25 M. Vertryck. 291/2 M. Tirlemont, Flem. Thienen (*H6tel du Nouveau Monde, near the station; Hotel Ponsaerts, in the market-place), a clean and well-huilt town with 13,000 inhab., was once like Louvain oc- cupied by a much larger population. The limits of the town, which are nearly 6 M. in circumference, now enclose a large ex- tent of arable land. In the spacious market-place is situated the church of Notre Dame du Lac, finished only in the choir (1297) and transepts (15th cent.). The Church of St. Oermain , partly Romanesque, has early-Gothic ';riforium and windows. The axis of the choir forms an angle of 7*^ with that of the nave. The high- altar-piece is by Wappers. Both churches have recently been restored. The celebrated Jesuit Bollandus (d. 1655), the first compiler of the Acta Sanctorum, was probably a native of Tirlemont. From Tirlemont to Diest (p. 179), 19V2 M., branch-railway in about 1 hr. (fares 2 fr. 50, 1 fr. 90, 1 fr. 25 c), via Neerlinter , Oeet-Betz , and Haelen-lez- Diest. From Tirlemont to vSt. Tkond and Tongres , 28 M., railway in IV2 hr. (fares 3 fr. 45, 2 fr. 60, 1 fr. 75 c.). — 6'/2 M. Neerlinter (see above). — 972 M. Leau , Flem. Zout-Leeuw {Gafi- Restaurant Bru.vellois, near the station), formerly a fortress, with a handsome late-Gothic Town Ball (16th cent.) and the Gothic church o('St. Leonhard (13th and I4th cent.). The latter, one of the few churches that were not spoiled in the 16th cent., contains Gothic carved altars with early-Flemish and Renaissance paint- ings (beginning of 16th cent. ; in the right aisle), a collection of admirable Gothic bronze works of the 15th cent., unequalled in any other church in the Netherlands (censers , fonts , lectern in the form of a eagle, six-light candelabrum, 23 ft. in height, tabernacle-railing), and a magnificent '■Taber- nacle sculptured in stone, 52 ft. high, one of the finest works of the Belgian Renaissance, executed in 1554 by Cornelis de Vriendt, architect of the Ant- werp Hotel de Ville, by order of Martin de Wilre , Seigneur of Oplinter, who is buried beside it. — I2V2 M. St. Trond (p. 202) , the junction for the Landen-Hasselt line. — 16 M. Ordange; 2OV2 M. Looz; 24 M. Pirange. — 27 M. Tongres, see p. 366. From Tirlemont to Namur, 271/2 M., railway in I1/2 hr. (fares 3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 50, 1 fr. 70 c). Stations unimportant. From Jodoigne a steam -tram- way runs to Wavre (p. 20S) ; to Louvain, see above. — 13 M. Ramillies is the junction of the Landen and Gembloux line (see p. 202). — From (16 M.) Noville-Taviers a branch-line runs io Embresin ; and. {vom Eghez^e a, steara- tramway plies to Andenne (p. 230). — Namur, see p. 189. Beyond (33 M.) Esemael the line intersects the plain of Neer- winden (the village lies to the left), the scene of two great battles. In the first of these, on 29th July, 1693, the French under Marshal Luxembourg defeated the Allies under William III. of England. 202 Route 24. LANDEN. In the second the French under Dumouriez and Louis Philippe (^then ^General Egalite\ afterwards king of France) were defeated by the Austrians under the Prince of Cobourg (great -uncle of the late king Leopold), and driven out of Belgium (18th Mar., 1793). 38 M. Landen (Hotel de la Hesbaye), the junction of several lines, is historically interesting as the birthplace of Pepin the Elder, the majordomo of the royal domains of the Austrasian monarch Dagobert L (628-38). He died here about the year 640, and was buried at the foot of a hill which still bears his name ; his remains were afterwards removed to Nivelles (p. 131). Fkom Landen to Hasselt, IT'/z M., branch-line in 3/4-2 hrs. (fares 2 fr. 20, 1 fr. 70, 1 fr. 10 c). This route presents few attractions. GV2 M. St. Trond, FJem. -S^ Truiden (Hdtel du Commerce), with 13,500 inhab., is the most important station. In the spacious Grande Place is the Hotel de nUe, added in the 18th cent, to the Belfry of 1606. The Gothic church of Noire Dame (13-15th cent. ; tower and W. facade modern) contains a fresco of the Last Judgment (over the choir) and various other paintings of different dates. The tower of the Seminary Church is a relic of the old abbey of St. Trudo. The tower of St. Martin's bears an equestrian statue of the saint. S(. Francis'^s (17-18th cent.) has a spacious interior. St. Trond is the junction for the Tirlemont-Tongre line (see p. 201). 171/2 M. Hasselt, see p. 179. From Landen to Gembloux (Fleurus and Charleroi), 23 M., railwav in 1 hr. (fares 2fr. 80, 2 fr. 10, Ifr. 40c.). Stations: JaucJie, Autre Eglise, (12 M.) Ramillies (p. 201), (23 M.) Gembloux (p. 198), Fleurus, and Charleroi (see p. 187). About 1 M. to the E. of Jauche or Autre Eglise is Folx-les-Caves, with curious subterranean quarries, like those of Valkenburg, worked at a very early period (guide in the adjacent brewery). Landen is also the junction for a line coming from Ciney, which intersects the Namur-Liege line at Huy (see p. 198). Next stations Gingelom, Rosoux-Goyer, and (47 M.) Warcmme, beyond which the line crosses the ancient and well-preserved Roman road, called by the country-people Route de Brunhilde, which ex- tended from Bavay (Bavacum Nerviorum) , near Mons, to Tongres. The latter was the capital of the ancient province of Hesbaye, the natives of which were famed for their strength and bravery, as the old proverb, ^ Qui passe dans le Hesbain est combattu Vendemain\ suggests. — Steam-tramway to Oreye and -ffuy, see p. 228. 5OV2M. Remicourt. Beyond (53 M.) Fexhe-le-Haut-Clocher the land of the Brabanters, a somewhat phlegmatic race of Germanic origin, is quitted, and that of the active and enterprising Celtic Walloons entered. A smiling and highly-cultivated district is ex- changed for a scene of industrial enterprise. Numerous coal-mines, foundries, and manufactories are passed in the vicinity of (58 M.) Arts, which lies 490 ft. higher than Liege. Branch-line to Liers (p. 366); steam-tramway via Oreye to Waremme (see above) and to St. Trond (see above). — 6OV2 M. Haut-Pre. The line now descends rapidly (1 : 30) , affording a fine view of the populous city of Liege and the beautiful valley of the Meuse. 62 M. Liege, see p. 209. i fE^ ^^ 203 25. Louvain. Hotels. In the town : Hotel de Su6de (PI. a ; E, 3), Place du Peiiple, with restaurant, R. 3-5, L. 1/2, A. 3/4, B. I'/z, dej.2V2, D. 4 fr. — Hotel de la CouK DE MoNS, Rue de Savoie 7, with a popular table-d'hote, R., L., & A. from IVzi B- ^hi dej. 11/4, I>- 2, pens, from 4 fr. — At the station : Hutel DE LA Gare, Hotel de l'Industrie, both unpretending. Restaurants. Edtel-Restaurunt Lorrain, Taverns Mathieu, both in the Rue de la Station (PI. E, F, 2) ; La Barcelone, Rue de Diest. — Cafes. Ca/4 Rubens, opposite the church of St. Pierre; Cafi Lyrique^ Grand' Place 22; "Qambrinus, Grand' Place (Munich beer); Cafi des Brasseurs, Rue de la Station 3; Cafd de la Renaissance, at the station. The beer of Louvaia is a sickly beverage. Cabs, or Vigilantes, 1 fr. per drive. — Tramway from the station to the Grande Place, 10 c. — Steam-tramway (by the eastern Boulevards) to (13/4 M.) HeverU (p. 208) and (18 M.) Jodoigne (p. 201): via Winghe-St- George to Diest (p. 179), in I3/4 hr. (fares 2 fr. 20, 1 fr. 65 c). Baths of diflerent kinds, Rue de la Laie 14. Chief Attractions (S-S'/z hrs. suffice). Hotel de Ville, exterior (see below); St. Pierre, under the guidance of the sacristan (p. 204); Halles, exterior (p. 206) ; choir-stalls at St. Gertrude's (p. 206), St. Joseph's (p. 207). Louvain, Flem. Leuven or Loven, on the Dyle, which flows through part of the town and is connected by a canal with the Rupel (p. 63), is a dull place with 40,900 inhabitants. The greater part of the space enclosed by the walls built in the 14th cent, is now used as arable land. The ramparts surrounding the walls have been converted into promenades. The name of the town is derived from Loo, signifying a wooded height, and Veen, a marsh, words which are also combined in Venlo. In the 14th cent., when Louvain was the capital of the Duchy of Brabant, and residence of the princes, it numbered 100-150,000 inhab., most of whom were engaged in the cloth-trade, and the town contained no fewer than 2400 manufactories. Here, as in other Flemish towns, the weavers were a very turbulent class. During an insurrection in 1378, thirteen magistrates of noble family were thrown from the window of the Hotel de Ville, and received by the populace below on the points of their spears; but Duke Wen ceslaus took the city in 1382 and severely punished the citizens, thousands of whom emigrated to Holland and England , whither they transplanted their handicraft. From that period may be dated the decay of Louvain, which Duke John IV. of Brabant vainly at- tempted to arrestby the foundation of the university (p. 204) in 1426. In front of the railway-station (PI. F, 2) is a statue of Sylvaan van de Weyer (d. 1874), a native of Louvain, who was one of the most ardent promoters of the revolution of 1830, and became the ambassador of the provisional government at the London Conference. The statue is by G. Oeefs. The Rue de la Station, on the right side of which is the Theatre, built by Lavergne in 1864-67, leads straight to the Place de I'Hotel de Ville (Grand' Place; PL D, E, 3). The **H6teI de Ville (PI. 20), a very rich and beautiful example of late-Gothic architecture, resembling the town-halls of Bruges, 204 Route 25. LOUVAIN. St. Pierre's. Brussels, Ghent (in the older part), and Oudenaarde, but surpassing them in elegance and harmony of design, was erected in 1447-63 by Matthew de Layens. The building consists of three stories, each of which has ten pointed windows in the principal facade, and is covered with a lofty roof surrounded with an open balustrade. At the four corners and from the centre of the gables spring six slender octagonal turrets , terminating in open spires. The three different facades are lavishly enriched with sculptures. The statues in the niches represent persons prominent in the history of the town : princes, generals, magistrates, artists, and scholars. The corbels which support the statues are embellished with almost detached reliefs, representing scenes from Old and New Testament history, in some cases with mediaeval coarseness. The outside of the build- ing was restored in 1829-42, but the W, gable was seriously damaged by lightning in 1890 ; the complete restoration is progressing very slowly. The Interior does not correspond with the exterior. Most of the apartments are fitted up in a modern style, and adorned with pictures by Vaeniiis, De Crayei\ Mierevelt., etc. The Salle Gothique, with a finely- carved ceiling, is adorned with frescoes by Hennehicq., consisting of scenes from the history of Louvain and portraits of eminent citizens. — On the second floor is a small museum containing an Ascension by Mich, van Coxie, specimens of De Crayer and Mierevell, and a number of other ancient and modern pictures, including several copies. Here also are preserved those parts of the original sculptures of the facade which could not be made use of in the restoration; a stone model by Josse Mei- sys of the projected towers of St. Pierre (1525); some local antiquities, etc. Catalogue 25 c. — The extensive Archives are also preserved here. The Gothic *Cliurch of St. Pierre (PI. 16 ; E, 2, 3), opposite the Hotel de Ville, a cruciform structure of noble proportions (espe- cially in the interior), flanked with chapels, was erected in 1425-97 on the site of a building of the 11th century. The unfinished W, tower does not rise beyond the height of the roof. The restoration of the exterior is almost completed. The Interior (usually closed from 12 to 4; sacristan, Vieux Marche, Rue des Legumes 58, in the church after 4 p.m.; Ifr. , more for a party) is 101 yds. long, 29V2yds. broad, and 82 ft. high. The choir is separated from the nave by an elaborate Jube, or Rood Loft, in the late-Gothic style, executed in 1490, consisting of three arches adorned with statuettes, and surmounted by a lofty cross. The twelve-branched Candelabrum was executed by John Matsys. Nave. The swinging doors inside the principal portal are finely carved in wood in the somewhat exaggerated style of the late Renaissance (1556). 1st Chapel on the N. (left) side : late-Gothic copper font, for- merly furnished with a lofty and heavy cover, which was removable by the still-preserved cast-iron handle, by J. Matsys. — The following chapels on the same side have marble parapets in the baroque style. The 1st Chapel on the S. side contains an altar-piece copied from the original oiDe Crayer (now at Nancy), representing S. Carlo SL Pierre s. LOUVAIN. 25. Route. 205 Borromeo administering the Sacrament to persons sick of the plague ; an old winged picture by Van der Baeren (1594), the Martyrdon: of St. Dorothea, with interesting views of ancient Louvain , and a statue of St. Charles, by Ch. Geerts (1855). Tombs of the humanists Puteanus (d. 1646) and Vernulseus (d. 1649), and of the jurist Valer. Andreas (d. after 1652). The 2nd Chapel (that of the Armourers) contains a carved and painted draped image of Christ, highly venerated in consequence of the legend that it once caught a thief who had sacrilegiously entered the church (a similar image is by the pillar adjoining the 2nd chapel to the N. ). The railing is adorned with armour and cannon. The Pulpit (Chaire de Verite), carved in 1742 by Jos. Berge, a work of very questionable taste, represents Peter's Denial on one side, and the Conversion of St. Paul on the other. The life-size wooden figures are overshadowed by lofty palm-trees , also carved in wood. The 3rd Chapel contains a picture of Memling's school, represent- ing the consecration of a cook as bishop, under Gregory V. Ambulatory. 4th Chapel (to the S.) : *Dierick Bouts, Martyrdom of St. Erasmus, a painful subject; in the background the Emperor, richly attired , with three attendants ; the scene is represented in a carefully-executed landscape with blue mountains in the distance ; on the wings, St. Jerome on the left and St. Antony on the right (covered). The same chapel contains the handsome Renaissance tombstone of Ad. van Baussede (d. 1559). — 5th Chapel: De Crayer, Holy Trinity. *Dierich Bouts, Last Supper, painted in 1467 (covered). This is the central picture of an extensive altar-piece, the wings of which are in the museum at Berlin (Feast of the Passover and Elijah in the wilderness), and in the Pinakothek at Munich (Abraham and Melchisedech, and the Gathering of manna). The symbolical character of the composition is, of course, not traceable in the central piece alone. One characteristic of Dierick's style is his attempt at individualisation by making the complexions strikingly dissimilar. Fine monument of Prof. Boyarts (d. 1520). The 6th Chapel formerly contained a celebrated 'Holy Family by Quinten Massy s, which is now in the Brussels Museum (p. 90). In the 7th Chapel are four paintings by P. J. Verhaghen, depict- ing the life and death of St. Margaret of Louvain, who is here held in great veneration as the patron-saint of domestic servants. 8th Chapel, with a handsome cast iron screen of 1878 : Descent from the Cross, by *Roger van der Weyden (?), a winged picture on a golden ground, with the donors at the sides, bearing the doubt- ful date 1443, but probably a late and reduced repetition of a picture in the Escurial (covered). The same chapel contains the tombstone of Henry I., Duke of Brabant (d. 1235), the founder of the church. 9th Chapel : Handsome marble balustrade hy Papenhoven of Ant- 206 Route 25. LOUVAIN. St. Gertrude's. werp (1709), representing Children playing, Confession, Baptism, and Communion. Beside it is a somewhat damaged Renaissance tomb of 1563. — In the choir, opposite the 10th Chapel, rises a beau- tiful Gothic Tabernacle [50 ft. in height), by De Lay ens (p. 204), executed in 1450. 10th Chapel (closed for restoration). Double tomb of Matilda of Flanders, wife of Henry I. (p. 205), and of her daughter (1260). The N. transept contains a richly carved organ of 1556, a copy of Van Dyck's Raising of the Cross, the tomb of Fr. van Rain (d. 1865), rector of the University, and a painted wooden statue of the Virgin and Child, of 1441. The last is known as 'Sedes Sapientiae' •, doctors of theology lay their confessions of faith before it. Behind the church is the handsome new Renaissance Post Office, with two towers. The Halles (PL 25 ; D, 3), 66 yds. long and 151/2 yds. wide, were erected as a warehouse for the Clothmakers' Guild in 1317, and made over to the University in 1679. The upper story was added in 1680. The interior is disfigured by alterations and additions, but the arches and pillars of the hall on the groundfloor still bear testimony to the the wealth and taste of the founders. The Library, one of the most valuable in Belgium (90,000 vols., 400 MSS.), is adorned with fine wood-carvings and a sculptured group representing a scene from the Flood, executed by Oeerts in 1839. The entrance-hall contains portraits and busts of former professors, and a large picture by Van Bree, Christ raising the daughter of Jairus, painted in 1824. The University, founded in 1426, was regarded as tlie most famous in Europe in tlie 16th century. The number of students is said to have exceeded 6000 at the period when the celebrated Justus Lipsius (d. 1606) taught here. Under Joseph II. its reputation somewhat declined, but it continued to exist until the close of last century. !No one could formerly hold a public appointment in the Austrian Netherlands without having taken a degree at Louvain. After having been closed by the French republicans, the university was revived by the Dutch government in 1817. A philosophical faculty was afterwards instituted, notwithstanding the determined opposition of the clergy, and complaints to which the inno- vation gave rise are said to have contributed in some degree to the Re- volution of 1830. Since 1834, when the university was given up by govern- ment, it has been maintained by the bishops as a free (i.e. independent of the state) Catholic university. It possesses 5 faculties, and is attended by 1900 students , many of whom live in three large colleges (Pidagogies du SI. Esprit., Adrien'VI., and Juste Lipse). — The technical academy connected vp-ith the university (Ecole du Ginie Civil, des Arts et Manufac- tures et des Mines) is rapidly increasing ; an Ecole d'' Agriculture was opened in 1878, and an Ecole de Brasserie in 1887. The church of St. Gertrude (PI. 12; D, 2) was erected in the Flamboyant style, at the close of the 15th cent., with the exceptioa of the choir, which was added in 1514-26. The *Choir-stalls, dat- ing from the first half of the 16th cent., and embellished with sta- tuettes and 28 reliefs of scenes from the life of the Saviour, St , Augustine, and Ste. Gertrude, are amongst the finest specimens of late-Gothic wood-carving in Belgium; they were executed by St. Jacques s. LOU VAIN. 25. Route. 207 Mathias de Waydere. The bands of ornamentation in the Renais- sance style (middle of 16th cent.) are particnlarly pleasing. In the right aisle is a triptych (Crucifixion) by M. Coxie. The sacristy contains a reliquary of the 14th century. (Sacristan at No. 22, near the principal portal.) The Rue de Namur, Rue de Malines, Rue de Bruxelles, and other streets contain various old houses with handsome facades. The Athenee Royal (PI. 26 ; D, 3) and (opposite) the Refuge des Vieil- lards (PI. 22 ; D, 3) in the Rue de Namur include courts in the Renaissance style. The Jansenius Tower, on the Dyle, dates from the 15th century. — A street ascends to the S.E. from the Place du Peuple to the modern church of St. Joseph (PI. 14 j E,3), in the Gothic style, with nave and aisles of equal height. The aisles and choir contain good frescoes by Meunier of Brussels and Dujardin of Antwerp. The church of St. Michael (PL 15 ; E, 3), erected by the Jesuits in 1650-66, with an imposing facade crowned by an attic, contains modern pictures by Mathieu, De Keyset, Wappers, and others. The proportions of the interior are remarkably symmetrical, and the architectural details show a curious affinity to the Gothic style. The church of St. Jacques (PL 13 ; D, 2) possesses several pic- tures of the school of Rubens, a St. Hubert by De Crayer, several modern works, and a Tabernacle in stone, executed in 1467, with a copper balustrade in the Renaissance style, cast by Jan Veldeneer in 1568. In the sacristy are finely embroidered vestments from the abbey of Ste. Gertrude, and two reliquaries of St. James and St. Margaret. The Penitencier, a prison for solitary confinement, in the Boule- vard du Jodoigne (PL E, F, 4), opened in 1860, has room for 634 convicts. The Maison d' Arret (PL 21), completed in 1869, has accommodation for 204 prisoners. A few remains of the ancient stronghold of the counts and dukes linger on an eminence (*VieAv, adm. 20 c.) near the Porte de Malines (PI. D, 1). It is usually called ^Caesar's Castle\ from an unfounded tra- dition that it was originally erected by the great Roman general. The Emp. Charles V. and his sisters were educated in this castle by the learned Adrian Floriszoon, afterwards Pope Adrian VI. — Another pictur- esque view may be obtained from the old ramparts to the S.W. of the Porte de Blalines (PI. C, 1). The Norbertinian Abbaye du Pare may be reached in 25 min. from the Porte du Pare (PI. E, 4; railway-station, see p. 208 •, admission on application). The abbey, founded in 1179, dissolved during the Revolution and revived in 1836, affords a good example of a large monastic establish- ment. The first court is surrounded by the offices and farm-buildings ; the second by the dwellings of the brethren. The interior contains hand- some rooms in the style of Louis XV., embellished with pictures by Er. Quellinus, Verbaghen, Duplessy, J. Coxie, etc.; in the church are paintings by Verbaghen and carved wood work 5 and the library and archives are also interesting. 208 26. From Louvain to Charleroi. 41 M. Railway in 2V4-3 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 20, 3 fr. 90, 2 fr. 60 c). Louvain^ see p. 203. The line passes several places memorable in the campaign of 1815. The country traversed is at first flat. Stations : Heverle, with a chateau and park of the Due d'Arenberg, and in the neighbourhood the Ahbaye du Pare (p. 207); Weert- St-Georges, Gastuche ; ( I41/2 M.) Wavre, to which the Prussians re- treated after the battle of Ligny, with a handsome monument by Van Oemberg (steam -tramway to Jodoigne , seep. 201); Limnl. 18 M. Ottignies, where the Brussels and Namur line is crossed (p. 197). To Baulers-Manage-Mons, see pp. 187, 186. In the vicin- ity rises the huge quadrangular tower of Moriensart (13th cent.). — Court-St-Etienne, La Roche. The train now passes close to the imposing ruins of the Cister- cian abbey of *Villers, founded in 1147 and destroyed in 1796, and stops at (25 M.) Villers-la-Ville. The ruins lie about 1/4^- to the N. of the station. The road to them skirts the Thyle. At the entrance to the abbey is *Dumont's Inn , where each visitor pays 1/2 fr. Beyond the court is the rectangular Refectory, a tasteful structure in the transition style , with two rows of windows. The Cloisters, chiefly Gothic, date from the 14 -16th cent., and are adjoined by the ruined Gothic Church, erected in 1240-72; the interior contains tombstones of Dukes of Brabant of the 14th century. The old brewery in the transition style is also worthy of notice. An eminence outside the Porte de Bruxelles, to the W., commands a good survey of the whole ruin. 271/2 M. Tilly is believed to have been the birthplace of the general of that name. 29 M. Marhais\ 30^2 M. Ligny, famous for the battle of 16th June, 1815 (see below). — 33 M. Fleurus (p. 209), junction for the lines to Gembloux-Ramillies-Landen (p. 202), to Tamines (p. 188), to Chatelineau (p. 188), to Jumet (p. 188), and to Nivelles-Baulers (p. 131). 35V2 M- Ransart, also a station on the line from Jumet (p. 188) to Fleurus (see above). From (38 M.) Lodelinsart, a busy place with coal-mines and glass- works, a branch -line and a steam-tramway (via Gilly) run to Chate- lineau (p. 188). — Steam-tramway to Charleroi, see p. 187. Battle Fields. This district is famous in military annals as the scene of several important battles, the last and chief of which was that of Ligny. Sombreffe, near Marbais, and 6 M. from Quatrebras (p. 186), was occu- pied on 15th June, 1815, by the 2nd and 3rd Prussian Corps d'Armee under Marshal Bliicher, who late in the evening received intelligence that Gen. Biilow with the 14th corps could not come to his assistance as originally concerted. The brave marshal accordingly resolved to fight alone, if ne- cessary. Wellington had agreed to co-operate with Bliicher, but the British troops were too far distant to render assistance, whilst those whose position was nearest to the Prussians were fully occupied at the Battle of Quatrebras. It is well authenticated that the Duke expressed his disapprobation of Bliicher's position, observing to the Marshal that 'with British troops he would have occupied the ground differently'. The chief disadvantages of the ground occupied by Blucher near St. I Lij it c ifu>/j:;V ^^ %'~^ [^^t;:1]' ' .....A. ■31 LifeGE. ^7. Route. 209 Am AND and Ligny, wliicli he regarded as the keys of his position, were, that there was too little security in the direction in which the commu- nication with the British was to be maintained, and that the villages in advance of the line were too distant to be reinforced without enormous loss. It is also on record, that the Duke, after his interview with the Marshal on the morning of the simultaneous battles, remarked to one of his staff, 'The Prussians will make a gallant fight; they are capital troops, and well commanded; but they will be beaten.' And the Prus- sians did fight most gallantly, well sustaining the military reputation of their country. But their utmost efforts were fruitless ; they sustained immense loss, were overmatched, and finally repulsed, but not conquered. According to the official statistics of both sides the total force of the French at Ligny amounted to 71,220 men, with 242 guns, that of the Prussians to 83,410 men, with 224 guns, but a large proportion of the French army was composed of veteran soldiers, while most of the Prussian troops were comparatively young and inexperienced. The French artillery was also numerically superior, and far more advantageously placed. The retreat of the Prussian army on the night after the Battle of Ligny, by Tilly and Mont St. Guibert to Wavre (p. 208), is perhaps without parallel in the annals of military warfare. So perfect was the order and so great the skill with which it was effected, that next day the French were entirely at a loss to discover in which direction their enemy had disappeared, and at lenght came to the conclusion that they must have taken the direction of Namur. It was not till late on the afternoon of the 17th that the real route of the Prussians was discovered, and Marshal Grouchy was dispatched in pursuit of Bliicher. The parts acted by the different armies were now interchanged. Napoleon and Ney, united, now proceeded to attack Wellington, while Bliicher formed the 3rd Corps d'Armee under Thielmann at Wavre, in order to keep Grouchy in check, and himself hastened onwarda with his three other corps towards Belle- Alliance, where he arrived on the evening of the 18th, in time to act a most prominent and glorious part in a victory of incalculable importance to the late of the whole of Europe (p. 123). About IV2 M. to the S. of Ligny lies Fleurus, celebrated for the battles of 1622 and 1690. On 26th June, 1794, a battle also took place here between the Austrian army under the Prince of Coburg, and the French under Marshal Jourdan, in which the latter gained an advantage. The Austrians had stormed the French intrenchments, captured twenty guns, and driven the French back to Marchiennes-au-Pont (p. 131), when the Prince owing to some misunderstanding, ordered his troops to re- treat. This false movement, as the event proved, ultimately contributed to the loss of the whole of Belgium. It is a curious historical fact, that on this occasion a balloon was employed by the French in order to reconnoitre the Austrian position, but with what success it does not appear. 41 M. Charleroi, see p. 187. 27. Liege and Seraing. Railway Stations. 1. Station des Guillemins (PI. A, B, 7), on the left bank of the Meuse, for Aix-la-Chapelle, Brussels, Namur, Paris, and Luxem- bourg. 2. Station de Longdoz (PI. C, D, 5), on the right bank, for Maast- richt, Namur, and Paris. 3. Station de Vivegnis (PI. D, E, 1), on the N.E. side, a long way from the centre of the town, but connected with the Station des Guillemins and the Station du Palais by a junction line, for the trains to Tongres, Hasselt, etc. 4. Station du Palais, near the Palais de Justice (PI. B, 2), and 5. Station de Jonfosse (PI. A, 3, 4) , both on the connecting line between the Station des Guillemins and Vivegnis, on which 35 trains run daily, between 5.30 a.m. and 11 p.m. (V4 hr.; fares 35,25,20c.). Hotels. Hotel de Su6de (PI. a; B, 3), Rue de THarmonie 7, close to the theatre, R., L., & A. from 4, B. IV2, dej. from 3, D. at 12.30 o'cl. SVz, at 6 o'cl. 41/2, pens. 10 fr.; Hotel d'Angleterre (PI. b; B, 3), Rue des Dominicains 2, R. 2V2-5, L. 1/2, A. 7-2, B. IV4, dej. 2V2, L>- ^j P^ns. Baedeker's Belgium and Holland. 12th Edit. 14 210 Route 27. LIEGE. Cabs. 8-12 fr. ; Hotel de l'Edrope (PI. c •, B, 3), Rue Hamal 4, these two at the back of the theatre. — Hotel de Feance, Rue de la Cathedrale, well spoken of; MoHREN, Place St. Paul 4 and Rue du Pont d'Avroy 31 (PI. B, 4), with large restaurant. R. 2-5, B. I1/4, D. 3 fr. •, Hotel VfiNiTiEN, Rue Hamal 2, near the theatre (PI. B, 3). — Hotel Dodnen, Rue Souverain-Pont 46, with cafe- restaurant. K., L., & A. 21/2-3, B. 1, D. 3 fr., well spoken of; Pommelette (PI. g-, C, 3), Rue Souverain-Pont 44, R. 2, A. 1/2, B- i- D- 21/2 fr., very fair; Hotel Charlemagne, Place St. Lambert (PI. B, C, 3), with cafe-restaurant; Hotel des Thermes Li6geois, on the hill above the Station des Guillemins, pens, from 6 fr., with restaurant; de Dinant, Rue St. Etienne 2, R., L., & A. from 21/2, B. 1, dej. 2, D. 2V2, pens, from 6 fr. — The following are convenient for travellers arriving late or starting early by railway: Hotel de l'Univers. Rue des Guillemins 103, refurnished in 1895, B. 1, dej. 2, D. 3, pens. 7 fr. ; Chemin de Fee, Hotel-Restaurant du Midi, and others, near the principal station (Guillemins); Hotel Notger (PI. B, 2). near the Station du Palais, Hotel de l'Industeie, Rue Gretry 89, near the Station de Longdoz. Restaurants. -Bernay, Rue Vinave-d'Ile 2 (PI. B, 3); "Mohren, see above; "Bdtel Dounen^ see above; "Cafi Vdnitien, see above; Caf ^-Restaurant Continental^ Place Verte; Taverne Anglaise^ Place du Theatre 31 ; Cafi de Dinant^ see above. Cafes. "Cafi du Phave, Place Verte 2 (PI. B, 3), lighted by electricity, with numerous billiard-tables; ''Cafi. Vinitien^ by the theatre; Cafi de la Renaissance^ in the Passage; Cafi Continental, "Cafi Charlemagne^ see above; Trink-Hall, Square d'Avroy (p. 212). Beer. -^Mohren (see above), Vienna and Bavarian beer 35 c, 'plat du jour' 1 fr. ; Taverne Britannique, by the theatre; * Taverne de Canterbury, Rue de la Cathe'drale 59; Taverne Roy ale de Munich., Rue de la Regence 21-23; Taverne de Strasbourg, Rue Lulay, near the Passage; Taverne de DieMrch, Place du Theatre; Trianon, Boulevard de la Sauveniere 12 ; etc. — Bodega, Place Verte 22. Cabs. Tariff for one or Closed Carriages. Open Ca rriages. more persons : One-horse Two-horse One-horse Two-horse A. By time : 1 hour . . . 1 fr. 50 c. 2 fr. 50 c. 2 fr. - c. 3 fr. — c. Per additional V2 hr. - - 75 - 1 - 25 - 1 1 - 50 - B. Per drive : In the town . 1 - - - 1 - 50 - 1 - 50 - 2 To the Citadel or the Char- treuse . . 2 3 2 - 50 - 3 - 50 - Waiting, each 1/4 hr., one-horse 25, two-horse 50 c. — Double fares from 11 p.m. to 6 a.m. Electric Tramways (comp. the Plan). From the Place du Thddtre (PI. B, 3) to the stations Guillemins (PI. A. B, 7) and Longdoz (PI. C. D, 5), and through the N.E. suburb of St. Leonard (PI. D, E, 1, 2) to Herstal (p. 366). — Between the stations Guillemins (PI. A, B, 7) and Vivegnis (Pi. D, E, 1), via the Rue Louvrex (PI. A, 4, 5). — From the Boulevard d'Avroy (PI. B. 4) via the Avenue de TObservatoire (PI. A, 6, 7) to the Pare Le Cointe (p. 218). — Steam Tramway from the Quai de TUniversite (PI. C, 3, 4) to Jemeppe and Seraing (p. 218). Steamboats up-stream to Seraing (p. 218), and down to the Cannon Fotindry (p. 215), starting from the Ecluse du Seminaire, Boul. Frere Or- ban (p. 212), every 1/2 hr. — Steamboats also in summer thrice daily to Maastricht (p. 226) , starting from the Quai de la Batte (PI. C, 3) and the Quai de Maastricht (PI. D, 2). Weapons. Liege contains 180 manufactories of arms, or rather depots of arms, for the pieces are made and mounted by the workmen in their own houses. These mechanics, 40,000 in number, work at their own risk, as a piece containing the slightest flaw is at once rejected. — Among the chief stores for weapons for show or sport are: Bury, Passage Lemonnier 11; Demoulin, Boul. de la Sauveniere 102; Dresse, Laloux, d- Cie., Rue sur la Fontaine 51; Fran-^ofte, Rue Mont St. Martin 66; Banquet, Rue Manufactories. LIJfcGE. 27. Route. 211 Cliarles Morren 18-, H. Pieper, Rue des Bayards 12-16; J. B. Rongi Fits, Place St. Jean 2. Photographs. Dandoy, Boul. d'Avroyl9-, A. Zeyen, Boul. de la Sauven- niere 137; Barras^ Passage Lenumnier 10; Strauss^ Rue de la Cathedrale 24. Post and Telegraph Office fPl. B, C, 3), Rue de TUniversitd 34. U. S. Consul, Mr. Henry W. Gilbert. — British Vice-Consul, Mr. R. S. Menziet. Principal Attractions. Palais de Justice, the court (p. 213); Church of St. Jacques (p. 217); St. Paul's (p. 216); view from the Citadel (p. 218). Liege, Flem. Luik, Ger. Lilttich, with 161,000 inhab., the cap- ital of the Walloon district, and formerly the seat of an ecclesiasti- cal principality, lies in a strikingly picturesque situation. The an- cient and extensive city rises on the lofty bank of the broad Meuse, at the influx of the Ourthe. Numerous chimneys bear testimony to the industry of the inhabitants, while the richly - cultivated valley contributes greatly to enhance the picturesque effect. The Meuse flows through the city and forms an island, which is connected with each bank by six bridges, including the railway- bridge (p. 231) and a small iron foot-bridge ('Passerelle'). The principal part of the town , with the large public buildings and churches lies on the left bank. The quarters on the right bank (known as Outremeuse) consist mainly of factories and the dwellings of the artizans. Several new streets have lately been made through the crowded parts of the old town , and extensive quays and squares have been laid out. The city is surrounded by a circle of detached forts at a distance of about 5 M. The coal-mines which form the basis of the industrial pros- perity of Liege, are situated in the vicinity, and many of them (now abandoned) extend beneath the houses and the river. One of the chief branches of industry is the manufacture of weapons all kinds, which have enjoyed both a European and a Transatlantic reputa- tion since the end of last century. As, however, the weapons of Liege are not made in large manufactories (see p. 210), they find formidable rivals in the cheaper productions of England and America , to compete with which the large Fabrique Nationale at Herstal (p. 366) was founded in 1891. The Liege zinc foundries, engine-factories, and other branches of industry, are also of great importance. Among the chief industrial establishments are the royal Oun Factory (PI. E, 2), the Cannon Foundry (PL E, 2), the Societe de St. Leonard (machinery, locomotives), near the prison, and the Liniere de St. Leonard (flax-spinnery), on the Quai St. Leonard, all in the suburb of St. Leonard (PI. D, E, 1, 2). The Walloons (p. xiv) are an active, intelligent , and enterprising race. ^ Gives Leodicenses sunt ingeniosi ^ sagaces et ad quidvis audendum promplV is the opinion expressed hy Guicciardini with regard to the Lie'geois. Indefatigable industry and a partiality for severe labour are among their strongest characteristics, but they have frequently manifested a fierce and implacable spirit of hostility towards those who have at- tempted to infringe their privileges. On such occasions they have never scrupled to wield the weapons which they manufacture so skilfully. The history of Liege records a series of sanguinary insurrections of the turbulent and unbridled populace against the oppressive and arrogant 14* 212 Route 27. LI^GE. Square d'Avroy. bishops by whom they were governed. Foreign armies have frequently been invoked by the latter to chastise their rebellious subjects. Thus Charles the Bold of Burgundy took the town in 1468, razed its walls, and put thousands of the inhabitants to death by the sword or by drowning in the Meuse. Maximilian I. also took violent possession of the town on two occasions. In 1675, 1684, and 1G91 it was captured by the French, and in 1702 it had to yield to Marlborough. In the revolu tionary wars of 1792-94, Liege was the scene of several contests between the French and the Austrians. The bishops retained their supremacy till the French Revolution in 1794, when the city was finally severed from the German Empire. In ancient times the bishops possessed a Walloon body-guard of 500 men; and Walloon soldiers, like the Swiss, were in the habit of serving in the armies of Spain, France, and Austria. Their bravery has been justly extolled by Schiller in his 'Wallenstein'. Leaving the Station des Guillemins (PL A, B, 7), we follow the Rue des Guillemins (good view of the town) in a straight direction to the *Square d'Avroy (PL B, 5), which is tastefully laid out on ground once occupied by a dock on the Meuse. It is embellished with numerous bronze statues and with the Trink-Eall, a cafe built in an Oriental style. The equestrian Statue of Charlemagne (PL B, 5) was made and presented to the town by the sculptor Jehotte. The emperor, who is said to have conferred on the city its earliest privi- leges, is represented in a commanding attitude, as if exhorting his subjects to obey the laws. The Romanesque pedestal (restored) is adorned with statues of Pepin the Elder ('of Landen'), St. Begga, Pepin the Middle ('of He'ristal'), Charles Martel, Pepin the Little, and Queen Bertha. To the W. is the Botanic Garden (p. 218). — The square is bounded by the Avenue d'Avroy and the Avenue Rogier. On the side next the latter is a raised terrace, with fine candelabra, urns, and four fine groups in bronze by L. Mignon, of Liege. Along the river runs the handsome Boulevard Frere-Orban. — Adjacent, in the Boulevard Piercot. is the new Royal Conserva- toire of Music (PL B, 5), erected after plans by L. Demany of Liege, which is attended by 650 pupils. The teaching of stringed instruments at Liege is especially celebrated. The concert-hall seats 1700 persons. For admission apply to the concierge , in the wing in the Rue Forgeur. — St. Jacques, see p. 217. The Square d'Avroy is continued towards the N. by the Boulb- VABD d'Avboy and the Boulbvard de la Sauvbxibrb (PL B, 3, 4), both shaded with trees and forming favourite evening-prome- nades. A fine view of the Church of St. Martin (p. 214), which stands on an elevated site, is obtained here. To the W. of the Boule- vard de la Sauveniere is the old Be'guines' Church of St. Christophe, well restored in 1890-92, with a bold vault. The Boulevard leads in a wide curve to the Place du Theatre (PL B, 3), which may be regarded as the centre of the town. The Theatre was built in 1808-22 after the model of the Odeon at Paris, and was restored internally in 1861. The facade is adorned with eight columns of red Belgian marble , from the Dominican church, now razed. Performances in winter only. — In front of the Palais de Justice. LifeGE. 27. Route. 213 theatre is a bronze Statue of Gretry, the composer (d. 1813), designed by W. Geefs. The heart of the master, who was a native of Li&ge, is deposited in the granite pedestal. To the W. of the Place du The'atre, at the end of the Rue Hamal, is the Church of St. Jean (PI. B, 3), erected in dSI by Bishop Notger, on the model of the cathedral of Aix-la-Chapelle, but entirely rebuilt in 1754-57. The octagonal ground-plan of the ori- ginal edifice has , however, been adhered to, a long choir having been added on the East. The Romanesque tower belongs to the the 12th, the cloisters perhaps to the 14th century. To the E. of the Place du Theatre is the Church of St. Denis (PI. C, 3), founded in 987; the present edifice dates almost entirely from the latter half of the 15th cent., with additions of the 18th century. The left transept contains a handsome winged altar, exe- cuted about the end of the 15th cent., representing, on the right, Christ entering Jerusalem ; on the left, Christ bearing the cross; in the centre, above, God the Father and Son, beneath, the Sudarium of St. Veronica; to the right and left, Apostles and Saints. Beside it is a Martyrdom of St. Denis. The statues of the Virgin and St. Denis at the sides of the high-altar are by Delcour (1707). The modern stained glass in the choir is by Capronnier. The Place Verte leads N.E. from the Place du Theatre to the Place St, Lambert (PI. B, C, 2), on which once stood the Cathe- dral of St. Lambert , ruined by the French sansculottes and their brethren of Liege in 1794, and completely removed in 1808. Here also stood the episcopal palace, which is now used as the — *Palais de Justice (PL B, C, 2), erected in 1508-40 by Car- dinal Eberhard de la Marck, a kinsman of the 'Wild Boar of Ar- dennes' (see p. 221). The faijade towards the Place St. Lambert was re-erected in 1737 after its destruction by fire, and the whole was restored in 1848-56, when the W. wing, accommodating the Gou- vernement Provincial, was erected ; the outside is embellished with sculptures. The building contains two highly picturesque courts, surrounded by vaulted arcades, exhibiting a curious blending of the late-Gothic and Renaissance styles. The cleverly-exe«uted capitals, which consist of grotesque masks, fantastic foliage, figures, etc., are by Francois Borset of Liege. The first court, which serves as a public thoroughfare, has been in part freely but skilfully restored. The se- cond court (entrance Rue du Palais, PI. B, C, 2), which has arcades on two sides only, has been laid out as a garden and contains several architectural fragments. The buildings enclosing the second court contain, besides the court rooms, the Archives (adm. 9-3) and an Archaeological Museum. The GouvERNEMENT PROVINCIAL contains a series of handsome rooms fitted up as a royal residence, which are, however, not always accessible (adm. by the door on the W. side, beside the sentry; portier in the hall, to the left). — The Salle dti Conseil Proviiicial is emhellished with frescoes by Van Marcke; the Salle de la Deputation is hung with tine old Brussels tapestry, the adjoining rooms with tapestry from Oudenaarde. 214 Route 27. Ll£GE. St. Martin's. The Musee Archeologique is open on Sun., 11-1, free; at other times it is opened for a fee of 1 fr. by the concierge, who lives in the back comer of the first court. It occupies the S. wing of the second court. The KoMAN Room contains antiquities found chiefly in the province of Liege : in the middle is a glass-case containing a ''Ewer and Basin., a fragment of a bronze Ticket granting honourable discharge to a legionary (of the time of Trajan; 98 A.D.), the Stamp of a Roman physician, and other objects in bronze. At the back of the room is the so-called -Fontaine d^A7igleur (p. 219), with bronze figures of a lion, ram, scorpion, and fish, heads of Satyrs and Medusa, etc. The other show-cases contain Sigillata and other Roman vessels in terracotta , roofing tiles , and Gallo-Fvankish Antiquities in gold, silver, glass, and terracotta. — The Galekie d'Oteeppe is devoted to furniture, pottery, glass, and other objects of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance ; old Flemish tapestry (.Diana). — Another long Gallery contains plaster- casts, and architectural and sculptural fragments. The ground in front of the W. facade of the Gouvernement Pro- vincial (see above) ascends rapidly and the slope (Publemont) is emhellished with pleasure-grounds and a fountain. At the corner to the left is the Theatre du Gymnase. Opposite the N.W. angle of the Gouvernement is the Station du Palais (p. 209), at the end of the tunnels by which the junction-line passes under the lofty W. quarters of the city. — The Rue Ste. Croix leads hence to the W. to the — Church of Ste. Croix (PL B, 3), founded by Bishop Notger in 979, but afterwards repeatedly altered. The Romanesque W. choir, built about 1175, with its octagonal tower and gallery of dwarf co- lumns, recalls the architecture of the lower Rhine (p. xxxvii); the E. choir and the nave are in the Gothic style of the 14th century. In the Interior, the nave and aisles, of equal height, and borne by slender round columns, are remarkable for their light and graceful effect. The pillars are of blue limestone, the walls and vaulting of yellowish limestone. In the side-chapels next the E. choir are fourteen medallion- reliefs of the Stations of the Cross (14th or 15th cent.). The stained glass in the choir was executed in 1854 by Kellner of Munich and Capronnier of Brussels. There is also a painting by Beriholet (Invention of the Cross), and statues of SS. Helena and Constantine, by Dekonr. The sacristy con- tains a remarkable bronze key and the hunting-horn of St. Hubert. Following the Rue Mont-St-Martin to the left, we reach the conspicuous and loftily- situated Church of St. Martin {Basilique St. Martin; PI. A, 3; recently successfully restored), founded by Bishop Heraclius in 962, and rebuilt in the Gothic style in 1542, almost simultaneously with the Church of St. Jacques (p. 217). Unlike that edifice, however, its proportions are severe and simple, but imposing. The Interior, consisting of nave and aisles, is 90 yds. long and 23 yds. wide; as in Ste. Croix, the pillars are of blue stone, the walls and vault- ing of yellow limestone. The stained glass of the transept is of the 16t.h cent., that of the S. aisle is modem; most of the windows were destroyed in 1892 by anarchists by means of dynamite. — The first lateral chapel on the right is adorned with twelve marble medallions by Delcovr, in mem- ory of the origin of the festival of Corpus Christi (Fete Lieu), which was first instituted in this church in the year 1246, in consequence of a vision beheld by St. Juliana, abbess of the neighbouring convent of Cornillon., and eighteen years later was ordained to be observed throughout Christen- dom by Pope Urban IV., who had been a canon at the cathedral of Liege at the time of the 'vision'. — The church was destroyed by fire in 132 St Barthelemy's. LTftGE. 27. Route. 215 during a fierce conflict between the burghers and the nobles, and two hundred of the adherents of the latter perished in the flames. The tower commands an admirable prospect (the sacristan lives to the W. of the principal tower; adm. 1 fr., small fee to the attendant). The handsome Acadimie des Beaux Arts, opened in 1895, in the neigh- bouring Rue de I'Academie, contains a collection of plaster-casts, etc. The Place St. Lambert is adjoined on the N.E. by the Grand Maeche (PI. C, 3), in which rises the Hotel de Villa, built in 1714, and containing several pictures. Adjacent is the church of St. Andrew , now used as the Exchange. The square also contains three poor fountains. The Fontaine du Perron in the centre was erected in 1696 from Delcour^s designs. The two others bear the arms of the burgomasters of Liege, and those of the Bavarian Palatinate (1719). The neighbouring church of St. Antoine (PI. C, 2) , erected in the 13th cent., was rebuilt in the 16-17th cent., and lately restored by Systermans. The choir is embellished with four wood- carvings of scenes from the life of St. Bruno, and frescoes by Carpay of subjects from the history of St. Antony (1860-68). — Opposite is a Fountain with a statue of John the Baptist by Delcour. The Municipal Museum (PL C, 2), a small collection of works of Liege artists and others, is contained in the old Cloth Hall (1788), Rue Feronstree 65. It is open on Sundays and holidays 10-1, on other days on payment of a gratuity. Among the painters represented are : G. de Lairesse, Carlier, Chauvin, Vieillevoye, Ingres ('Bona- parte as First Consul), Paul Delaroche (36. Mater Dolorosa), Le- poittevin (101. Landscape), Wiertz (175. Contest for the body of Patroclus), Wauters, Alb. de Yriendt, V. van Hove, De Haas, Koehler, Roelofs, Hennequin, Gallait, etc. Farther on, on the same side, is the Church of St. Barthelemy (PI. D, 2), a basilica of the 12th cent., but completely modernised in the 18th cent., with double aisles (originally single only) and two Romanesque towers. The Baptistery, to the left of the choir, con- tains an interesting *Font in bronze, cast in 1112 by Lambert Patras of Dinant. It rests on twelve oxen, and is embellished with reliefs, representing John the Baptist preaching, the Baptism of Christ in Jordan , Peter baptising Cornelius the centurion , and John the Evangelist baptising Crato the philosopher. It formerly stood in the cathedral of St. Lambert, p. 213. The church is also adorned with pictures by Flemalle, Dufour, Fisen, and others. — Adjacent is the Mont de Pieti ('Maison de Curtius'), Quai de Maastricht 10, an interesting limestone and brick building of 1560, with a lofty roof and tower and curious sculptures. Some of the sculptured chimney- pieces in the interior are interesting. — The old prefecture in the same street has been occupied since 1886 by a Musee d'Armes, in which fire-arms are especially well represented. Secretary, M. Polain. Admission gratis daily, except Tues. , 10-12 and 2-6 (2-4 in winter), on Sun. and holidays 2-6 only. — In the Place Maghin (PI. D, 2) are the large factories of the Societe St. Leonard (p. 211). 216 Route 27. LifeGE. St. PauVs. A wide street, the Rue Leopold, leads to the S.E. from the Place St. Lambert to the Pont des Arches (PI. C, 3), which spans the Meuse in five flat arches, and is adorned with allegorical statues by P. Drion and Sopers. It was constructed in 1860-63, on the site of an older bridge mentioned as early as the 6th cent., and afterwards repeatedly destroyed and renewed. Communication between the two quarters of the city was formerly commanded by a tower on the bridge. The bridge affords a good survey of the city, extending along both banks of the river. The neighbouring Quai de la Goffe and the Quai de la Batte are much frequented by the lower classes. Several of the busiest streets in Liege lead to the S.E. from the Place du Theatre, among them the Rue de la Regence and the Rue r>B l'Univebsitb. At the end of the latter, to the left, rises the — University [PL C, 3, 4), erected in 1889-93 in the Renaissance style , with a plain sandstone facade. The buildings at the back belong partly to an old Jesuit college and were partly built in 1889- 93. They comprise lecture-rooms, academic collections, a library (about 200,000 vols. ; busts of distinguished professors in the large hall), a laboratory, and a natural history museum containing a fine collection of the fossil bones of antediluvian animals found in the caverns of the environs, especially at Chokier (p. 228) and Engis (p. 228). The Anatomical and Physiological Institutes, in the Rue de Pitteurs, the Chemical Laboratory , in the Rue de I'Universite, the Zoological Institute, Quai des Pecheurs (right bank of the Meuse), etc., have all been erected within the last ten years. The University was founded in 1817 and recognized as a Belgian state university in 1834 (comp. p. 206). • — The Ecole des Mines et des Arts et Manufactures , a well-attended institution, and an Ecole Electro - Technique are connected with the University. There are more than 60 professors in all, and 1400 students, one-third of whom attend the mining and polytechnic school. The Place in front of the University is embellished with a bronze Statue of Andre Dumont, the eminent geologist, a professor in the University here in 1835-57, and author of the Carte Geologique of Belgium, by Eug. Simonis. A little above the University, the Meuse is crossed by the Pont de la Boverie (PI. C, 4), a bridge of four handsome arches, which leads to the Quartier and Station de Longdoz. The electric tram- way crosses this bridge. To the W. of the University rises the *Church of St. Paul (PL B, 4), founded by Bishop Heraclius in 968 , and rebuilt in 1280 (from which period dates the handsome Gothic choir), while the nave and additions were completed in 1528. It was originally an abbey church, and was raised to the dignity of a cathedral in 1802 (comp. p. 213). The tower (1812) contains a set of chimes. St. Jacques's. LifeGE. 27. Route. 217 The Interior is 92 yds. long, 37 yds. broad, and 80 ft. high. The nave and aisles are separated by round pillars. The Nave is crowned by a handsome triforium-gallery ; the vaulting is embellished with Re- naissance arabesques, executed in 1579, and restored in 1860. The -Tulpit, carved in wood by W. Gee/s of Brussels (1844), is worthy of special notice. Five figures in marble, also by W. Gee/s, representing Religion, SS. Peter and Paul, SS. Lambert and Hubert, serve to support the pulpit. The fallen angel at the back is by Jos. Geefs, a brother of the principal master. — Right (8.) Aisle: 2nd Chapel, Christ in the sepulchre, executed in marble by Del- couv in 1696; 3rd Chapel, St. Paul bidding farewell to St. Peter, also by Delcour. The principal subject in the stained-glass window of the right transept (1530) is the Coronation of the Virgin. — The Choir, which is separated from the nave by an elaborate copper railing, contains stained glass, the five windows in the apse dating from 1557-87, the modern win- dows by Capronnier. Here also is a painting by Erasmus Quellin, re- presenting SS. Gregory, Jerome, Ambrose, and Augustine, four Fathers of the Church. The choir-stalls were executed in 1864 , from designs by Durlet of Antwerp ; they represent, on the right, the Resurrection of Be- lievers, and, on the left, the Translation of the relics of St. Hubert. Tho high-altar dates from 1831 ; the enamelled copper altar of St. Theodore was designed by Wilmotte (d. 1893). — Left (S.) Aisle : Stained glass by Capronnier ; 3rd Chapel, Marble statue of the Virgin, by Rob. Arnold.^ a Carthusian monk of the 18th century. The Treasury (adm. 2 fr.) contains, among other objects, a group of St. George and Charles the Bold , in gold enamel, presented by Charles the Bold in expiation of his destruction of the town in 1468 (p. 212), and the bust of St. Lambert, containing his head, in silver gilt, by Henri Zutman of Liege (1506-12). At the entrance of the Rue Vinave-d'Ile, opposite the W. portal of the church, is a fountain adorned with lions and a statue of the Virgin, hy Delcour. The *Cliurch of St. Jacques (PI. B, 4), near the Boulevard Pier- cot (p. 212), to the S.W., was founded by Bishop Balderic II. in 1016, and received its Romanesque W. tower in 1163-73, but dates in its present form from 1513-38. It is a magnificent edifice in the late-Gothic style, with a polygonal choir encircled by small chapels. The Renaissance portal on the N. side was added by Lombard in 1558-60. The church has been under restoration since 1895. The Interior is 87 yds. long, 33 yds. broad, and 75 ft. high. Its de- coration, particularly the filigree ornamentation bordering the arches, and the gorgeously-coloured enrichment of the groined vaulting, reminds one of the Moresco-Spanish style. The fine stained- glass windows of the choir, dating from 1520-40, represent the Crucifixion, the donors, their ar- morial bearings, and their tutelary saints. The elaborate stone-carving in the choir (winding staircase in two flights), and the organ-case in the nave, carved by Andreas Severin of Maastricht (d. 1673), also deserve notice. The choir was painted in 1895. — Over the altar in the N. transept is a fine Mater Dolorosa, of the beginning of the 16th cent. ; in the S. transept is the tomb of Bishop Balderic II. (see above), restored in the Renaissance style. — The aisles contain modern reliefs of scenes from the Passion, The Zoological Garden, or Jardin d'Acclimatation (PI. C, 6; admission 1 fr.), contains only a small collection of animals, but the grounds are prettily laid out and afford a fine view of part of the upper town. Concerts are given here on Sun., Tues., and Thurs. in summer. Adjoining the gardens to the S. is the Pare de la Bo- verie, with a cycle-track. 218 Route 27. LifeGE. The Botanic Garden (PI. A, 5) is open the whole day ; the hot- houses of the Institut de Botanique, founded in 1883 (fine palms), are shown on application to the head-gardener. Adjacent is the Pharmaceutical Institute. The finest *View of Liege is afforded by the Citadel (PI. C, 1), 520 ft. ahove the sea-level , erected by the Prince-Bishop Maxi- milian Henry of Bavaria in 1650, on the site of earlier fortifications. Tt may be reached in 20-25 min. by ascending the steep Rue Pier- reuse (PI. C, 2), or by the flight of 385 steps from the Rue Hors- Chateau, beside the Protestant Church (PI. C, 2). Admission is usually granted without difficulty on application to the officer on duty, who deputes a soldier as guide (fee optional). The view embraces the extensive city lying on both banks of the river, with its numerous towers and chimneys , and the populous and indus- trious -valleys of the Meuse, the Ourthe, and the Vesdre. The pros- pect is bounded towards the S. by the mountains of the Ardennes ; towards the N. it extends to the Petersberg near Maastricht, beyond which stretch the broad plains of Limburg. The fortified heights of the Chartreuse (PI. E, 5, 6), on the opposite bank of the Meuse, also command a charming though dif- ferent prospect (finest in the morning). The best point is the garden of the Hospice de la Chartreuse (Asile des Petites Soeurs des Pauvres) for old men, about half-way up the hill ; entrance from the road 'Montague la Chartreuse' (ring ; 1/2 fr. on leaving). — Still higher lies Robermont, where the Prince of Coburg was defeated by Marshal Jourdan, 19th Sept. , 1794, in the last battle fought by the Austrians on Belgian ground. The Avenue de V Observatoire (PI. A, 6, 7), beyond the Sta- tion des Guillemins, affords a pleasant walk, with fine views ; on the hill, 8 min. above it, is the Pare Le Cointe with the favourite Hotel-Restaurant des Thermes Liegeois (p. 210) and the Observatory of the university. — Electric tramway from the Boulevard d'Avroy, see p. 210. Seraing. Steamboat (3/4-I hr.) every 1/2 hr. in summer, from 7 a.m. till dusk (fares 30 and 25 c. ; see p. 210). Steam Tramway (35 min.), every V* li'- from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m., and every hour thereafter till midnight, starting from the Quai de TUniversite and running along the left bank of the Meuse to Jemeppe, where the terminus is close to the (6 M.) Seraing bridge. Halting - places every 330 yds. ; fares 50 or 40 c. Railwat in 15-20 min., either on the right bank of the Meuse from the Station de Longdoz to Seraing, or on the left bank from the Station des Guillemins to Jemeppe (distance in each case 5 M.), The *Excursion to Seraing affords a most interesting insight into the extraordinary industry of the Walloon country, and the SERAING. 27. Route. 219 steamboat trip is picturesque. After passing under the handsome railway-bridge of Val Benott (p. 231), we notice on both banks numerous iron-foundries and steel-factories of all kinds. — L. Ougree (rail. stat. , right bank). R. Sclessin, with blast-furnaces and coal- pits , and Tilleur. The steamboat stops at the suspension-bridge which connects Seraing and Jemeppe (5000 inhab.). The railway- stations are each about 3/4 M. from the bridge. Seraing {Hotd Bruyere, near the quay), a town with 36,500 in- hab., situated on the right bank of the Meuse, has acquired a Eu- ropean reputation on account of its vast ironworks and manufac- tories. They were founded in 1817 by Jo/m Cocfeeriii (1790-1840), an Englishman, to whom the works belonged jointly with William I. , King of the Netherlands, down to 1830, when he purchased the king's share and thus became sole proprietor. His bronze statue, by A. Cattier, was erected in 1871 on the quay in front of the Hotel de Ville. The works are now owned by a company with a capital of 15 million francs. Visitors, on previous written application, are admitted at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. A building on the Meuse, which was formerly a summer-palace of the prince-bishops, immediately below the suspension-bridge, now forms the entrance to the establishment. It contains the residence of the director and the archives and library of the works. The v;ork- shops and offices occupy an area of 270 acres, and employ about 11,000 hands, whose salaries and wages amount to upwards of 10 million fr. annually. Upwards of 300 steam-engines are in constant opera- tion. The first locomotive engine on the Continent was built at Sera- ing (1835). The establishment comprises every branch of industry connected with the manufacture of iron , such as coal-mines, ironstone- mines, puddling furnaces , cast-steel works , and engine-factories. In the vicinity of Seraing (up the river) are the extensive coal-mines and blast-furnaces of the ^sperancc company; and farther distant, the glass-works of Val St. Lambert^ established in a sup- pressed Cistercian Abbey, one of the largest manufactories of the kind in Europe (steam -tramway to Clavier, see p. 229). 28. From Lihge to Luxembourg via Rivage and Trois- Ponts or via Jemelle. 541/2 M. to Trois-Vierges 5 44 M. to Jemelle. Railway (Lignes de VOurthe et de VAmhUve): to Trois-Vierges (p. 222) in 41/4 hrs., fares 6 fr. 70, 5 fr., 3 fr. 35 c. ; to Jemelle (p. 19S) in 2-21/2 lirs., fares 5 fr. 40, 4 fr. 5, 2 fr. 70 c. The train starts from the Station des Guillemins at Liege, and follows the Pepinster line (p. 231) as far as (IV2 M.) Angleur (with a zinc-foundry of the Vieille Montague Company), where it turns to the S. into the beautiful valley of the Ourthe, which intersects the Belgian Ardennes in numerous windings from N. to S. On the slope to the left at the entrance to the narrower part of the valley, which 220 Route 28. TILFF. From Liege is called the ^Streupas^ (pas ^troit) , stands the chateau of Beau- Fraipont, with its massive square tower. The train then passes the foot of an eminence crowned with the turreted chateau of Colonstere. On the opposite bank is the chateau of Ancre. 6 M. Tilff (Hotel des Etrangers ; de V Amiraute ; du Casino),, a large village prettily situated on the right bank of the stream, and reach- ed from the railway by an iron bridge, is much resorted to in sum- mer by the citizens of Liege. Modern Gothic church. About ^/^ M. below it is the Villa Neef, with pretty grounds. About 1/2 M. above Tilff, high above the road, is the entrance to a not very easily ac- cessible stalactite cavern (the keeper of the adjoining cabaret acts as guide, fee about 2 fr. ; the expedition is not recommended to ladies). On the height above it is the chateau of Brialmont. The train then passes the restored chateau of Monceau, crosses the river, traverses some rock-cuttings and a tunnel, and reaches (10 M.) Esneux {* Hotel Belle vue; Hotel de Liege; Kursaal; Hotel Cobus^ above, near the church), strikingly situated on and at the foot of a lofty and narrow rocky isthmus, washed on both sides by the river, which here forms a bend upwards of 3 M. in length. The lower part of the village is connected with the upper by a long flight of stone steps, while the carriage-road describes a long circuit. Fine views from the top, particularly from the Beaumont. Near the school is a natural arch of rock. This is the most picturesque spot in the lower valley of the Ourthe, and is a favourite point for excur- sions from Liege. Near (12 M.) Poulseur (steam-tramway to Sprimont, 5 M.) the train crosses the river, the banks of which are disfigured with extensive limestone and slate quarries. Above the village rise the ivy-clad ruins of Poulseur, and opposite formerly stood the castle of Montfort^ once one of the seats of the 'Quatre Fils Aymon' (see below). The valley contracts. The train crosses the Ourthe and reaches the small station of (14 M.) Rivage (Hotel de la Station), where the Ourthe Railway diverges to the right (see p. 223). The Chbmin de Fek db l'Ambleve, which connects the Ourthe railway with the line from Spa to Luxembourg, traverses one of the most picturesque valleys of the Belgian hill-country. The line at first ascends the right bank of the river, which is here navigable, passing (14^2 M.) Liotte and skirting the furrowed limestone cliffs of the Belle Roche. To the right we obtain a glimpse of the fine rocks of Halleux. Immediately beyond (17^2 M.) Martin- Rive the train crosses to the left bank. On the left tower lofty roi"ks crowned with the insignificant ruins of the chateau of Ambleve, which are chiefly interesting from their association with the medi- iffival legend of the Quatre Fils Aymon, who are said to have resided " here, and with the 'Wild Boar of the Ardennes', who once occupied the castle, and was beheaded at Maastricht in 1485. The keys of the castle are kept at the village. The exploits of this adventurer to Luxembourg. AYWAILLE. 28. Route. 221 are admirably described by Sir Walter Scott in his 'Quentiu Dur- ward'. His true history is as follows : — William de la Marck, the scion of a noble family of Westphalia, born about 1446, was educated by Louis de Bourbon , Bishop of Liege. The bravery, or rather ferocity, of his character, procured for him at an early age the sobriquet of the 'Wild Boar of the Ardennes'. Having been censured by the bishop's chancellor on one occasion , he slew that of- ficer, almost before the eyes of his patron, and was banished in conse- quence. William now sought an asylum at the court of Louis XI. of France, where he planned a revolt in the Bishop's dominions, and re- ceived money and troops for the enterprise. On his arrival in the Province of Liege, he entrapped the unfortunate Bishop into an ambuscade, and slew him with his own battle-axe. The Liegeois, ever prone to rebellion, now created William their commander-in-chief. He next invaded Brabant, but having been defeated by Archduke Maximilian, he returned to Liege, and allied himself with Rene of Lorraine against Austria. Maximilian now had recourse to treachery. He bribed Frederick of Horn, William's friend, to betray him. The 'Wild Boar' thus fell into the power of the Austrians, and was conducted to Maastricht, where he terminated his blood- stained career on the scaffold at the age of 39 years. He died bravely, as he had lived, meeting his merited fate with composure. 191/2 M. Aywaille {Hotel du Luxembourg; Hotel de Liege ; Hotel d^Allemagne, good cuisine), a small town with 3500 inhabitants. A picturesque walk may be taken from Aywaille via the village of Harze (with a 16th cent, castle of the De la Marcks) to My and Bo~ mal (p. 223). From Aywaille we may proceed via Dievpart^ with its solitary old church, to (IV2 M.) Sougni, at the foot of the steep cliff known as Heid des Gaites ('goat mountain'), in the valley of the Ambleve, below Remou- champs. Farther on we cross the river by a viaduct 45 ft. high and 175 yds. long, commanding a good view of the village of Remou- champs on the left, and of the still occupied chateau of Mont Jardin on the right, peeping down from its lofty situation amid dense foliage. Farther up is the modern chateau of M. de Theux. 21 M. Eemouchamps [Hotel des Etrangers, R., L., & A. 21/4 fr., Hotel de la Grotte, R., L., & A. I'/i fr. ; at both B. 3/^, dej. IV4, D. 21/2? pens. 5 fr.), one of the prettiest spots in the valley of the Ambleve, with z. Stalactite Grotto, which, however, is far inferior to that at Han-sur-Lesse (p. 197). The entrance adjoins the Hotel de la Grotte (admission 3 fr.; torches included ; costume for ladies IV2 fr. ; fee to the guide extra). The grotto consists of an upper and a lower part, to which last a flight of steps descends, and it is traversed by a brook. Another peculiarity which the limestone basin of Remouchamps has in common with other similar dis- tricts is the disappearance of almost all the streams in the neighbourhood, towards the N., in subterranean clefts or 'entonnoirs' (funnels), locally called 'chantoirs'. The largest of these is the Enionnoir of Adseux, 3 M. to the N. of the village. The traveller follows the road throiigh the romantic Slcheval ('dry valley') as far as the village of Deigni (p. 232), whence a boy had better be taken as a guide. Above Remouchamp the river makes a wide bend, which the railway avoids by a tunnel 678 yds. in length. The train then crosses to the left bank, passes (22^2 ^0 Nonceveux, recrosses the river, and reaches the Fond de Quareux (Restaurant), a wild rocky 222 Route 28. GOUVY. From Liege caldron, in wMch the channel of the Amhleve is blocked by innu- merable boulders. From (25 M.) Quareux a pleasant walk may be taken along the highroad to a point beyond the prettily-situated village of Sedoz, and thence across the hills [fine views) to Remou- champs (in about 21/2 hrs.). The train now keeps to the right bank, commanding a series of fine views of the wild valley of the Ambleve and, beyond (27^/2 M.) Stoumont (Hot. des Chasseurs, in the village, 3 M. from the sta- tion) , of the picturesque ravine of the Lienne. "We then pass Targnon, on an almost isolated hill. From Stoumont to Spa by Desniez, Winamplanche, and Marteau, about 5 hrs. Several tunnels and bridges are next passed. 31 M. La Oleize (Hotel Delvenne). Before reaching (33 M.) Roanne-Coo, we have a view (right) of the beautiful Cascade of Coo, with its grand mountainous environs. Part of the Ambleve is here precipitated through two artificial gaps in the rock, made in the 18th cent., while the rest of the water flows past the openings and reaches the bottom of the rocks by a circuitous course of 3 M. The H6tel de la Cascade, with a terrace and pavilion, is frequently crowded; Hdtel Brilannique, less pretending. 351/2 M. Troia-Ponts, junction of the line toPepinster (p. 238), a small village named after its three old bridges (over the Ambleve, over the Salm, and over another brook), and situated behind preci- pitous rocks through which the railway passes. The line now enters the deep, rocky valley of the Salm or Olain, passes through a tunnel, and follows the left bank of the stream. 39 M. Grand-Halleux; to the leit, the reddish diSs of Eoux. 43 M. Viel-Salm (Inn), at some distance from the village (*H6tel Belle- vue) of that name ; large slate-quarries in the environs. — Farther on, to the right, is the ruined castle of Salm, the ancestral seat of the princely family of that name. The line now quits the valley of the Salm, passes (471/2 M.) Bovigny, and beyond (501/2 ^^O Gouvy (Ger. Qeylich; Hotel du Chemin de Fer; Belgian custom-house) crosses the infant Ourthe (which rises close to this point) and the watershed between the Meuse and Moselle , which is at the same time the Luxembourg frontier. Branch-line to Libramont, see p. 199 A diligence runs from Gouvy to (IO1/2 M.) Houffalize (p. 199). The train descends through the rocky valley of the Wolz, cutting off the windings of the stream by two short tunnels. 541/2 M. Trois- Vierges, Ger. Vlflingen, vulgo Ulven (Hotel Wieser, at the railway- station), the frontier-station of Luxembourg (p. 239). The French name is derived from the legendary conversion of the three Fates into the Christian virtues of Faith, Hope, and Charity, personified as the daughters of St. Sophia. The parish-church formerly belonged to a Franciscan convent. A branch-line runs from Trois-Vierges via Wilwerdingen, Lengeler, and Burgreuland (with ruined castle), to St. Vith, connecting with the Malmedy and Aix-la-Chapelle and Gerolstein line. I to Luxembourg. BOMAL. 2,9. Route. 223 The Ourtlie railway beyond Rivage (p. 220) crosses the Ambleve and reaches (15 M.) Comblain-au-Pont {* Hotel des Families, Hot. des Chasseurs, at the station), a village (Hotel Berck-Gadisseur) prettily situated on the left bank of the river, ^/^M. from the station, v?hich lies at the foot of a precipitous cliff. On a rocky eminence rises the ivy-clad tower of a ruined church. The train now passes through a tunnel to [1772 M.) Comhlain- la-Tour (Hotel de I'Ourthe), situated at the mouth of the Comblain brook, with rocky environs. The valley soon expands and becomes more attractive. 20^/2 M. Hamoir (Hotel des Chemins de Fer), a con- siderable village situated chiefly on the left bank. On the right bank, farther up, lies the chateau of Hamoir-Lassus, with a large park. One of the most picturesque parts of the valley is between Hamoir and Bomal (see below ), the scenery being pleasantly varied by mea- dows, richly-wooded slopes, and frowning cliffs. *Walk. Beyond the chateau of Hamoir-Lassus , at the first houses of the village of that name, enquire for the shorter path across the hill, and cross the railway-hridge of Sjj (Simon's Inn), a small group of houses in a nawow gorge. A path through the meadows here passes the mouth of the tunnel and through an arch of the bridge , suddenly affording a view of a narrow and sombre rocky valley. At the end of the tunnel cross again (ferry) to the farm of Palogne on the right bank, and ascend with a boy as guide to the picturesquely situated ruins of the castle of Logne, which like the Chateau d'Ambleve was one of the chief seats of the redoubtable Count de la Marck (p. 221). On the top is a grotto, the Cave Notre-Dame. Near the castle runs the Aywaille (p. 221) and Bomal road, by which the latter village may now be reached past the "Roche de Hierneu. Beyond Hamoir the train crosses the river several times, and penetrates a lofty cliff by means of a tunnel. The large village of (25 M.) Bomal (Hotel de la Station), at the mouth of the Aisne, commanded by the chateau with its terraced gardens , is a hand- some looking place. ExcDKSiON recommended to the picturesque rocky valley of the Ais7ie, ascending by Juzaine and Aisne to (4 M.) Roche-a-Frene (Courtoy-Liboutte), with curious geological strata , and returning by Heid , W6ris (ancient Romanesque church; Celtic dolmen), and Barvaux. The train again crosses the Ourthe, stops at the substantially built village of (27M.) Barvaux ("jyofe? de I'Aigle Noir, pens. 41/2 fr.; Hotel des Ardennes), and then quits the river in order to avoid the long bend which it makes towards the W. On the Ourthe, 2 M. above Barvaux, lies the ancient and pictur- esquely situated, but now insignificant town of Durbuy (Hdtel de LQge, R., L. & A. IV2, B. 3/4, d^j. 11/2, D. 2, pens. 4V2-5 fr.; Hdfel de la Montague), with 450 inhab. only. The principal features of the place are a mediaeval bridge, an old chapel, the ruined tower of an ancient fortification, and the modernised chateau of the Due d'Ursel. Beyond (32 M.) Melreux [Hotel des Strangers, well spoken of) the line crosses the Ourthe for the last time and then leaves its neighbourhood. Feom Melkkux to Laroohe, I2V2 M., narrow-gauge railway in IV4 hr. (fares 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 20 c). 13/4 M. Hotton (Hotel de I'Ourthe); 4^/2 M. Ren- deux. On an isolated wooded hill opposite stands the pilgrimage-chapel of 224 Route 29. VISfi. From Liege St. Thibaut, beside whicli a hermit still dwells. — I2V2 M. La Roche (Ed/el de Luxembourg ; det Ardennes; du Nord ; Casino, frequented by the English), a small town , picturesquely situated at the junction of several valleys, and commanded by the frowning ruins of a castle. The winding and varied valley of the Ourthe in the vicinity of La Roche presents several points of attraction, e.g. the rocks of Le Hirou and the junction of the two Ourthes. 38'/.2 M, Marche (*H6tel de la Cloche ; Hotel de la Gare) , the cliief town (2900inliab.) of the Famenne, a productive agricultural district. Marche was formerly a fortress. Lafayette was taken pri- soner by the Austrians here in 1792. The village of Waha, IV2M. to the S., contains a small Romanesque church consecrated in 1051. 401/2 M. Marloie; 44 M. Jemelle, where the line unites with the Brussels and Luxembourg railway (p. 198). 29. From Li^ge to Maastricht. 19 M. Railway in 1 hr. 5 min. -, trains start from the Station de Longdoz (fares 2 fr. 40, 1 fr. 80, 1 fr. 20 c). — Steamer, see p. 210. Travellers to Maastricht who intend to return to Liege should leave the bulk of their luggage at Liege, in order to avoid the formalities of the Dutch douane in going, and those of the Belgian in returning. The train passes under the Chartreuse (p. 218), runs near the Meuse for a short distance, and reaches (3 M.) Jwpiiic, a small town of very ancient origin , with 3600 inhab. It was once a favourite residence of Pepin of Heristal, who died here in 714, and was also often visited by Charlemagne. The train now quits the river, which makes a bend towards theW. — 5 M. Wandre; 6 M. Cheratte. 8 M. Argenteau (Hotel du Tourne-Bride) is connected by a tasteful bridge with Hermalle , a straw-plaiting place on the oppo- site bank of the river. Above the village rises an abrupt limestone rock, clothed with oak-plantations on the summit, and crowned with the new chateau of Count Mercy d' Argenteau. The court is connected by means of a lofty bridge with another precipitous rock, on which are remains of the old chateau. The park extends for a considerable distance to the N. (open to the public). Farther down the river are steep cliffs and large quarries. Picturesquely situated on the Berwin7ie , 2 M. to the E. of Argenteau, are the ruins of the once famous fortress of Dalhem (Restaurant Klenen). 10 M. Vise, Dutch Wezet (^ Hotel de Brabant ; * Grand Hotel, Hotel de VEurope^ both near the station), with 2800 inhab., is the seat of the Belgian custom-house. The church contains the famous silver Chdsse de St. Hadelin., with figures in relief. Quaint Hotel de Ville. The Loretto Chapel, on the hill, is a pilgrim-resort. The train crosses the frontier and enters the Dutch province of Limburg. 121/2 M. Eysden, with the Dutch custom-house and an old chateau, is situated amid fruit-trees and luxuriant pastures. — 15 M. Gronsveld. On the opposite bank of the Meuse are seen the tufa rocks of the Petersberg, rising 330 ft. above the river, and crowned by the graceful Chateau of Castert. &fK)STaph.AnKtaltTxm i . 28.600 l\agru?r,fcBebe to MaaHrlcht. MAASTRICHT. 29. Route. 225 19 M. Maastricht. — Hotels. Hotel dv LiivRiKR, or Hazewind ('greyhound' ; PI. 1), in the Bosch-Straat, near the market, R. I1/2 fl., L. 25, A. 30, B. 60 c, D. 1 fl. 40 c, pens. 4 fl., De Zwaete Abend, or Aigle Noir (PI. 2), opposite, both belonging to the same proprietor, R. 1 fl.; Hotel- Restaurant WiLLEMS (PI. 3), Stations-Straat, at Wyk, near the station; Derlon (PI. 4), near the Peter's Gate and the church of Notre Dame, R.,L., & A. 11/2, B. 1/2, I>- from iV4, pens. 33/4 fl. ; Daenen (PI. 5), E., L., & B. IV2, L. V2, de'j- ^/i, D- incl. wine 2, pens. 3 fl. , these two for gentlemen travelling alone. — Restaurants. Railway Restaurant., very fair; Zegjiers., BreedeStraat; Rathskeller, Vrythof. Post & Telegraph Office,'to the S. of the Vrythof. Baths. Binneiibad^ Bogaarde-Straat; 5««7e«6rt(Z, on the Meuse (in summer). Tramway from the station to the market-place 71/2 c. — Carriage from the station into the town 50 c. ; from Maastricht to the entrance to the galleries 3 fl. Guides to the Petersberg: Dorlo, St. Pieter-Straat 21; another at the entrance. Charge, 2 fl., each pers. additional 72 A., including torches. Cards of admission may also be obtained at the hotels and booksellers' ; change is not always to be had at the entrance to the caves. Maastricht, the capital of the Dutch part of the province of Limburg, a well-built town with 32,700 inhab., lies on the left bank of the Meuse. Maas-Trecht (Trajectum ad Mosam) is the Trajectum Sujperius of the Romans (the 'lower ford' was at Utrecht, p. 368), and from 382 to 721 was the seat of a bishopric, trans- ferred hither from Tongres by St. Servatius (d. 384). It belonged to the Frankish kings, several of whom resided here, and was at a later date in the joint possession of the Dukes of Brabant and the Prince Bishops of Liege. In 1579 Maastricht, which had thrown in its lot with the Netherlandish patriots , was besieged for four months by the Spaniards, under the Duke of Parma. The garrison, which consisted of 1200 soldiers (French, English, and Scottish), 7000 of the townspeople, and 1000 peasants from the environs, finally succumbed on June 29th. The victors plundered the town for three days and put 8000 of the inhabitants to death. In 1632 the town was captured by Prince Fred. Henry of Orange, and in 1673, 1748, and 1798 by the French. Maastricht was almost the only town in the S. part of the Netherlands which was successfully maintained by the Dutch against the Belgians in 1830. ■ — The fortifications have now been razed. The railway-station is on the right bank of the Meuse, near the suburb of Wyk, which is connected with the town by means of a bridge of nine arches, erected in 1280-98, and rebuilt in 1683 by the Dominican Fr. Remain, the architect of the Pont Royal at Paris. About 220 yds. farther up, a Roman bridge once crossed the river; traces of the ancient road from Bavay (p. 202) to Cologne were dis- covered here. The Stadhuis, or Hotel de Ville, with its clock-tower, situated in the great market-place, was erected in 1659-64, and contains several pictures of the Dutch School and well-executed tapestry (1704), representing the history of the Israelites in the wilderness. The Church of St. Servatius, or Hoofdkerk, in the Vrythof, found- Baeueker's Belgium and Holland. 12th Edit. 15 22 G Route 29. MAASTRICHT. ed by Bishop Monulphus (560-599), is the oldest church in the Netherlands. The rich "W. portion, in the Romanesque style, be- longs to the 11th or 12th cent. , the remainder was added in the Gothic style during the 13-15th cent., and the interior was altered to correspond about 1500. The crypt, with the tomb of St. Serva- tius rediscovered in 1881, dates from the original building. There is another crypt beneath the W. choir. Among the altar-pieces are a Crucifixion and a Descent from the Cross by Van Dyck. The Church Treasury (Schatkamer), which since 18713 has occupied a chapel of its own, is worthy of inspection (fee, including both crypts, 1 fl. ^ more than one pers. 50 c. each). The most interesting object which it contains is the late-Romanesque reliquarj' of St. Servatius (12th cent.), in the form of a church, 5 ft. 9 in. in length, 19 in. in breadth, and 27 in. high. It is executed in gilded and enamelled copper, and embellished with filigree work and precious stones. A key of electrum (a mixture of gold and silver) presented to the saint by Pope Damasus (376), his crozier, stick, portable altar, and vestment are also shown. An enamelled golden cross, with an an- tique cameo and the body of Christ carved in ivory, dates from the 10th cen- tury. Ecclesiastical utensils of the 13-16th cent.', etc. Catalogue 1/2 fr. The Protestant Church of St. John (St. Janskerk), formerly the baptistery of the cathedral , is in its present form a late- Gothic structure of the 15th century. The handsome tower is 220 ft. in height. — In a side-street, the Groote Straat, is the old Dominican Church, a fine Gothic building, now a warehouse and much neglected. The Church of Notre Dame^ oxLieve Vrouwekerke, a late-Roman- esque edifice of the 11th cent., has been disfigured by subsequent additions ; it is now under restoration. The fine choir with its ambu- latory and the richly decorated capitals of the columns deserve no- tice. The treasury contains a dalmatic of the 7th cent., an enamelled silver relief (a Byzantine work of the 11 th cent.), an Oriental horn (12th cent.), a reliquary in rock-crystal and copper gilt (13th cent.). The Provincial Archives and the Town Library (open 9-12 ; on Tues., Thurs., Sat., also 2-3) are preserved in the old Franciscan Churchy Rue St. Pierre, a few paces to the S. of Notre Dame. — The picturesque Helpoort, in this vicinity, is the only one of the old town-gates now left. The old Hotel de Ville (15th cent.), Kleine Straat, near the Groote Markt (entrance in the Jooden- Straat), contains the Museum van Oudheden^ a small collection of antiquities. At No. 16 Tafel- Straat is M. Ubaghs' Geological ^^ Palaeontological Collection (open 10-5; at both, adm. 25 c). On the S.E. side of the town, near Notre Dame (see above), is situated the small Stads-Park^ with a restaurant and pretty view of the Meuse. Concerts in summer on Tuesdays and Thursdays. A visit to the old sandstone-quarries which honeycomb the *Pe- tersberg takes about 3 hrs. on foot. The path on the E. side of the Liege canal is in shade in the morning and preferable to the road. We leave the town on the S. by the Peter's Gate, near which the guide (p. 225) lives. After about 35min. we reach the suppressed Servite monastery of -Siavante, now PETEESBERG. 29. Route. 227 the property of a private club (Casino), but open to strangers (re- freshments, fine view). The entrance to the quarries is close by. The invariable temperature of the interior is about 45° Fahr., so that visitors should beware of entering the caverns in a heated condition. The Peteksberg is composed of a yellowish , sandy, and soft stone, or chalky tufa , which has been deposited by the water of the ocean, and contains nximerous conchylia, fragments of coral, sharks' teeth, fossil turtles, etc., also bones of gigantic saurians and numerous flints (collections at Liege University and at Maastricht). The stone is easily sawn into blocks and hardens on exposure to the atmosphere. The quarries in the Petersberg were worked since the early middle ages (perhaps even since Roman times) until a few years ago; and in the course of ages a vast labyrinth of galleries has been formed, about 15 M. in length and 9 M. in breadth. These galleries , which vary from 20 to 50 ft. in height , are supported by square pillars averaging 50 ft. in circumference. Thousands of names are scratched on the pillars, the earliest dating from 1037. The so-called orguts g^ologiques, cylindrical openings of 1-7 ft. in diameter, and generally vertical, perforating the formation to a vast depth, and now tilled with clay, sand, and rubble, were probably formed by submarine whirlpools and afterwards enlarged by the percolation of rain-water. One of these openings has been cut through the middle by the quarrymen, and the water trickling through has produced a stalactite formation some- what in the shape of a tree, which the guides erroneously point out as fossil roots and branches. It is dangerous to enter the galleries without a guide. The bodies of foolhardy explorers were formerly not unfre- quently found in the more remote recesses, preserved from decay by the properties of the tufa. If any guide remains more than 3 hrs. in the quarries another is sent in search of him. A curious effect is produced by the guide leaving the party temporarily and carrying bis torch into the side-galleries, from which its light shines into the central one from time to time. The soft, friable nature of the stone deadens every sound, so that his footsteps soon seem as if far in the distance. Admission to a small paleeontological ^Museum' is included in the en- trance-fee. Railway to Aix-la-Chapelle, Hasselt, and Antwerp, see R. 17; to Venlo, Nymegen, and Rotterdam, see RR. 56, 55. 30. From Lihge to Namur. 371/2 M. Railway in 1 hr. 5 min.-2 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 80, 3 fr. 60, 2 fr. 40 c; express 5 fr. 70, 4 fr. 30, 2 fr. 85 c). This line is part of that from Cologne and Liege to Paris. This part of the valley of the Meuse is remarkably picturesque and attractive. Bold cliffs , ruined castles , rich pastures , and thriving villages are passed in uninterrupted succession, while numerous coal-mines and manufactories with their lofty chimneys bear testimony to the enterprising character of the inhabitants. The whole district is densely peopled, the land well cultivated, and the scenery pleasantly diversified with hop-gardens, corn-fields, mead- ows, and (before Javaz) with vineyards, but many of the prettiest points escape the railway - traveller. The quarries on both banks yield excellent marble. Li^ge, see p. 209; the train starts from the Oare de Longdoz (p. 209). Ougree, Seraing (p. 218), and Val St. Lambert are stations on the right, Tilleur, Jemeppe-sur- Meuse, and Flemalle-Grande sta- tions on the left bank of the river, all picturesquely situated, with 15* 228 Route 30. HUY. From Liege numerous manufactories and coal-mines. Val St. Lambert was until the Revolution the seat of one of the wealthiest Cistercian monasteries in the country, now succeeded by one of the most im- portant glass-works in Belgium. 7 M. Flemalle- Haute, a considerable village, where a branch- line, constructed mainly for goods-traffic, crosses the river. Farther on, to the right, on a precipitous rock rising almost immediately from the river, stands the chateau of Chokier, with its red tower and massive walls , dating partly from the last century. It is the ancient seat of the Surlet de Chokier family, a member of which was regent of Belgium for five months previous to the election of King Leopold. Then , at some distance from the river, on the right, the castle of Aigremont, with its white walls, rising conspicu- ously on the crest of a lofty hill, belonging to Count d'Oultremont. It is said to have been erected by the Quatre Fils Aymon , four traditionary heroes of the middle ages. In the 15th cent, it formed the central point of the warlike exploits of William de la Marck, the 'Wild Boar of the Ardennes' (p. 221). To the left, opposite stat. Engis, stands the chateau of Engihoul, at the base of a limestone Tock. In 1829 numerous fossil bones were discovered by Dr. Schmer- ling in the limestone rocks around Engis, wliich led him to the conclusion that a prehistoric race of human beings had once peo- pled this district. 12 M. Hermalle-sous-Hxiy, with a handsome chateau and park, is another picturesque spot, between which and Neuville the scenery is less attractive, and the banks are flatter. Farther on, at Flone, are the large buildings of a former nun- nery (16th cent.) ; and on the hill above them, to the right (l'/2M.), is the chateau of Jehay, restored in the original style. The chateau, which contains a collection of paintings, is in the possession of Baron Van den Steen. 14 M. Amay, a village at some distance from the river, possesses a Romanesque church with three towers. Neuville, a chateau of the Prince de Ligne, beyond which the scenery again becomes more picturesque, lies nearly opposite (151/2 M.) Ampsin, where a ruined tower stands on the bank of the river. In the neighbourhood are vineyards, and the large Corphalie Zinc-Foundry. The train con- tinues to skirt the hills on the left bank, of which no view is obtained. 18 M. Huy,Flem./?oei/(*A«pieA"o«>, R.,L.,&A.2i/.2, B.l, de'j.2, D. 21/2, pens. 6 fr. ; Mouton Bleu; du Globe; Bruxellois; Phare, plain), a town with 12,100 inhab. , is picturesquely situated on the right bank of the Meuse (station on the left bank), at the mouth oi the Hoyoux. The Citadel, constructed in 1822 and strengthened in 1892, rises from the river in terraces. The works are partly hewn in the solid rock. The ^Collegiate Church (Notre Dame), a tine structure in the most perfect Gothic style, was begun in 1311, but renewed after a fire in the 16th century. Handsome W. portal with an elaborate rose-window and good sculptures. On the high- to Namur. BAS-OHA. 30. Route. 229 altar is a Gothic screen , and the treasury contains some notable articles. In the Grande Place is a pretty fountain with brazen figures (^15th cent.). In 1868 a statue by W. Geefs was erected on the promenade skirting the Meuse, to Jos. Lebeau, a Belgian states- man, born at Huy in 1794. The best views of the banks of the river, which are especially beautiful above the town, are obtained from the bridge over the Meuse and from beside the chapel of St. Leonard, to the W. of the town. Wine-growing flourishes in the neighbourhood The abbey of Neumoustier , founded by Peter the Hermit (d. 1115), formerly stood in one of the suburbs of Huy, and the great preacher of the Crusades was himself buried there. A statue has been erected to him in the garden of the old abbey. This was one of no fewer than seventeen religious houses which Huy possessed under the regime of the bishops of Liege , although the population of the town was then about 5000 only. Froji Hdy to Landen, 22'/2 M., in l'/2-2 hrs. (fares 2 fr. 75, 2 fr. 5, Ifr. 40 c.). The train may be taken either at the station of Static (see below), a suburb on the left bank of the Meuse, or at Huy-Sud. The two stations, which are IV4 M. apart, are connected by a bridge across the Meuse and by a tunnel. — At (5 M.) Moha, with a ruined castle, the line begins to ascend the picturesque valley of the Mehaigne., a tributary of the Meuse. Stations: Huccovgne; Fumal, with an old castle; Fallais (Hotel Michaux- Frisone), with a Romanesque church, and a tastefully restored chateau; Bvaives. The country now becomes flat. The last stations are Avenues, Hannut, Avernas. Then Landen^ see p. 202. From Hut to Waremme (p. 202), 16 M. , steam-tramway in IV2 hr. ; fares 1 fr. 85, 1 fr. 30 e. From Hur to Ciney, 25M., railway in IV4-IV2 hr. (fares 2 fr. G5, 2 fr., 1 fr. 35 c.). The trains start from Statte and Huy-Sud (see above). — The pleasing valley of the Hoyoux, which the line ascends, is also interesting for pedestrians. Of the numerous paper-mills in the lower part of the valley, the chief is that of Godin. — 41/2 M. Barse. — 7 M. Modave, whence a visit may be paid to the Oh br.) chateau oi'-'Modave^ most picturesquely situated on a lofty rock, built in the 16th cent., and now the property of M. Braconier of Liege. Admission to the chateau with permission of the proprietor only. The park is shown by the gardener, who opens the lower gate from which the station may be regained. A pretty waterfall is to be seen above the adjacent hamlet of Pont-de-Bonne (Hotel Bovy; Hotel des Touristes), a summer-resort with attractive walks. — Then, Clavier (steam-tramway to Val-St. Lambert, see pp. 219, 227; to Comblain-au-Pont, p. 223), Avins-en- Condroz , Havelange, Hamois, Emptinne. — Oiney, see p. 198. 191/2 Ml. Statte (Hotel Continental; Hotel des Voyageurs), a suburb of Huy, picturesquely situated on the left bank of the Meuse, and junction of the line from Landen to Ciney, which here crosses the river (see above, and comp. Map). — Tunnel. 20^2 M. Bas-Oha , with an old castle now restored. On the height opposite are the scanty ruins of the castle of Beaufort, de- stroyed in 1554, which is once more in the possession of the Duke of Beaufort-Spontin. In the valley of Solih-es, about I'A M. from the ruin is the Trou Manteau, which has been very imperfectly explored, entered by a double opening (apply to the disenverer Victor Martin, watchmaker in Huy). — Below Beaufort is Ben-Akin, with a chateau (restored) of Prince Looz- Corswarem. An attractive walk leads hence by the highroad to (3-3V2 M.) 230 Route 30. ANDENNE. Huy(p. 228); another from tlie ruined castle of Beaufort to Huy, through the valley of SolUres. 221/2 M. Javaz , opposite which is Oives (see below). 25 M. Andenne-Seilles . On the left bank, where the railway-station is situated, lies the straggling village of Seilles, the last in the district of Liege. There are several lime-kilns here, and a chateau restored in the style of the 15th century. Opposite Seilles, and connected with it by means of an iron bridge, lies Andenne (Hotel de Thier, du Commerce, both near the station; Hotel des Etrangers), with 7100 inhab., a busy town, with paper, faience, and other manufactories. Down to 1785 a religious establishment of 32 sisters of noble family, not bound by any vow to abstain from matrimony, had existed here for upwards of a thousand years. It is said to have been founded by St. Begga, a daughter of Pepin of Heristal (p. 366), and the order was probably identical with that of the Beguines. The establishment was transferred to Namur by Emp. Joseph II. The church contains the Renaissance reliquary of St. Begga, and a famous wonder- working marble tablet of the saint. Fine view from Mount-Cal- vary. — Steam-tramways to (I21/2 M.) Eghezee (p. 201), to Gives (3 M. ; see above), to Soree (10 M.), and via Sclayn and Samson (see below) to (7 M.) Qrand-Moinil. — Tunnel. 29 M. Sclaigneaux is noted for the curiously jagged character of the red oolithic cliffs. A handsome bridge (opened in 1890) crosses the Meuse to Sclayn (Hotel des Etrangers ; Hot. -Cafe de la Renaissance), a beautifully situated village frequented as a summer- resort, with a quaint old Romanesque church. At (30 M.) Nameche (Hotel Suisse), another pleasant village in the midst of fruit-trees, the river is crossed by an iron bridge. On the opposite bank, in the valley of the Grand-Pre, lies Samson, a village at the foot of a pic- turesque cliff of white limestone. Above Samson are a modern cha- teau and the ruins of a castle believed to date from the 12th century. Near it, in 1858, was discovered a Frankish burial-place. A pleasant walk leads from Samson to the S. via Goyet (with pre- hiatoric caves ; foot-path via Haltinne to Andenne see above) and the beautifully situated chateau of Faulx, to (4^2 M.) the scanty ruins of the famous Ahhey of Grand-P)'i, destroyed during the French Revolution. — In the lateral valley above Faulx lies the well-preserved chateau of Arville. On the left rises the chateau of Moinil ; then that of Brumagne, the property of Baron de Woelmont. 32 M. Marche-les-Dames (Hotel-Restaurant Au Vallon), adjoin- ing which are the ironworks of Enouf. The modern chateau of the Due d'Arenberg, with its gardens, amidst the trees on the rocky slope, is named after an abbey founded (in a side-valley) in 1101 by 139 noble ladies, the widows of crusaders who had accompanied Godfrey de Bouillon to the Holy Land. A pleasant walk on the left bank, affording fine views of the river and the rocks of Samson leads hence to Sclaigneaux (see above). On the left rise the huge cliffs of Lives. We next pass a number CHftNte 31. Route. 231 of lofty conical cliffs ; then, on the right (34'/2 M.), appear the mas- sive rocks of the Orands Malades , so-called from a hospital for lepers, situated here in the middle ages. 371/2 M. Namur, see p. 189. 31. From Liege to Aix-la-Chapelle. 34 M. Railway to Verviera (15V2 M.) in 34-66 min. (fares 1 fr. 90, 1 fr. 45, 95 c. •, express 2 fr. 40, 1 fr. 80, 1 f r. 20 c.); from Verviers to Aix-la-Chapelle (IQi/aM.) in 40-65 min. (fares 3 fr. 30, 2 fr. 60, Ifr. 85 c). In the reverse direction : express from Aix-la-Chapelle to Liege 4 marks 60, 3 Jf 40 pfennigs ; from Cologne to Liege 10 JS? 90, S J( 20, 5 Jl 70 pf. ; from Cologne to Brussels 18 Jl 40, 13 Jl 80, 9 .// 50 pf. (The German mark, worth Is. Engl., is divided into 100 pfennigs.) Between Verviers and Aix-la-Chapelle (and Cologne) several of the express trains have first- class carriages only, but in Belgium they always consist of the three classes. — At Herbesthal, the Prussian frontier-station, small articles of luggage are examined; hut that in the luggage-van is not examined till the traveller arrives at Aix-la-Chapelle (or at Cologne, if booked to, or beyond Cologne). The country traversed by the line between Liege and the Prussian frontier is remarkable for its picturesque scenery, busy manufactories, and pretty country-houses, while the engineering skill displayed in the construction of the line is another object of interest. The picturesque stream which the line crosses so frequently is the Vesdre (Ger. Weser). The rock penetrated by most of the tunnels is a bluish limestone, fre- quently veined with quartz, and often used for building purposes. This is the most beautiful part of the journey between England and Germany, and should if possible be performed by daylight. The Bergisch-Markisch Railway also has a line between Verviers and Aix-la-Chapelle, 2OV2M. (I-IV4 hr. ; fares 2 fr. 60, 2 fr. 15, 1 fr. 50 c.; or 2 Jl 10, i Jl 10, I Jl 20 pf.). It diverges beyond Dolhain (p. 233) at (8 M.) Welkenraedt from the Rhenish line. 11 M. Henri- Cftapelle. Near (12ViiM.) Montzen-Moresnet are several chateaux and the ruin of ScMmper, picturesquely situated on a cliff above the Gohl. About IV4 M. to the E. is the Altenherg or Vieille Montague (Restaurant Bergerhoff ; Casino), the central point of the territory about IVzsq. M. in area possessed in com- mon by Prussia and Belgium since 1815, with nearly exhausted zinc-mines. Near Altenberg in the valley of the Gobi rises the Eineburg, or Emmaburg, once a country-residence of Charlemagne, where his secretary Eginhard is said to have become enamoured of the emperor's daughter Emma, whom he afterwards married. — 131/2 M. Bleybei'g (Belgian custom-house), with lead and zinc-mines. Branch line to Aubel, see below. — 20'/2 M. Aix- la-Chapelle (Templerbend Station), see Baedeker's Rhine. Through-trains of the Bergisch-Markisch Railway from Brussels to Dusseldorf go by this line (express from Calais to Berlin in 203/4 hrs.). Liege, see p. 209. The train starts from Wq Station des Guil- leniins at Liege, crosses the handsome Pont du Val-Benoit, skirts the mountain-spur of Quinquempois, with its chateau, and beyond (11/2 M.) Angleur (junction of the Ligne de VOurihe, for which see p. 219) passes the extensive zinc-foundry of the Vieille Mon- iagne Co. (see above), and crosses the Ourthe near its confluence with the Vesdre. 2 M. Chenee (6500 inhab.), at the mouth of the Vesdre, is a busy manufacturing place with copper-foundries and glass-works. — Branch-line to Herve, Battice, and Aubel (p. 233); another to the (21/2 M.) Station de Longdoz at Liege (p. 209). 232 Route 31. VERVIERS. From Lieye 4 M. Chaudfontalne (*Grand Hotel des Bains, pens. 7-10 fr.; *E6tel d' Angleterre ; carriages and donkeys at the station), a small and beautifully -situated watering-place, attracts numerous visitors from Liege. The thermal spring (104° Fahr.) used for the baths is situated on an island in the Vesdre. A suspension-bridge leads from the station over the river to the baths and 'Kursaal' (to the right), with its garden. From the back of the church a pleasant path, provided with seats, leads to the top of the hill (10 min.), which rises above the village and commands a fine view of the valley of the Vesdre with the castle of La Eochette on an abrupt rock (best from the pilgrimage-church of Chevremont). — A pleasant walk (2 hrs.) leads past Embourg and through the park of the Villa Sainval (apply to the gardener) to Tilff, in the vaUey of the Ourthe (p. 220). Beyond a tunnel we reach (6 M.) Trooz. On the rocks to the right is perched the turreted old castle of Trooz, which has been used since the middle of the 18th cent, as a factory for boring gun- barrels ; it is the property of the Malherbe family at Liege. A picturesque route leads from Trooz via Prayon into the gorge of the Soumagne, with its picturesque limestone clilTs, where the stream occasionally disappears from view. Another pleasant walk may be taken to the S. through the rocky valley of Masbeux, with a handsome chateau, via Louveigni and Deigni to (2V2-3 hrs.) Remouchamps (p. 221). Several bridges and tunnels now bring us into the weapon- manufacturing part of Belgium. Various chateaux are passed {Frai- pont-Bas, etc.). Beyond (9Y2 M^-) Nessonvaux the line passes through four tunnels and over seven bridges. 12y2 M. Pepinster (Hot. de Btllevue; des Voyageurs; Buffet), with 2500 inhab., is the junction for Spa and Luxembourg (see R. 32). The name is said to be derived from Pepin, the Frankish majordomo (p. 366). The beautiful park of the Chateau des Masures (M. Attard-Vivrona), about 1 M. farther on, to the righ|, is open to strangers. The park-gate is in the English Gothic style. Stat. Ensival (Gr. Taverne Continentale), on the left, is almost a suburb of Verviers. 151/2 M. Verviers. — Hotels. Hot. do Chemin de Fee, Rue de la Station; de Londees, Pont St. Laurent 14; d'Allemagne , Rue de la Station. — Cafes-E,estaurants. Grand Cafi des Neuf Provinces. Brasserie de Diekirchy in the Place Verte; Ca/d Nicolas, Place du Martyr; Cafd du Qlobe, Rue du College. — Tramway between the stations and to Dison and Ensival (see above). Verviers, with 52,000 inhab., excluding the adjoining communes of Hodimont and Dison (see p. 233), is a town of modern growth. Cloth-making has flourished here since the 18th century. Upwards of 400,000 pieces are manufactured annually in Verviers and the environs, about one-third of which is exported. Yarn is also spun here in considerable quantity. In the new part of the town, to the left of the approach to the station, is a handsome brick church in the Gothic style. A monument erected in the Place du Martyr in 1880 commemorates Chapuis, a citizen executed in 1794 by the to Aix-la-Chapelle. DOLHAIN. 31 . Route. 233 prince-bishop of Liege. The principal church, St. Remade^ has some good stained glass. In the Rue des Vieillards, leading thence to the Place du Martyr, is a monumental fountain with a bust of Burgomaster Ortmans-Hauzeur. Verviers contains several modern Gothic churches and a new theatre (in the S. part of the town). Pretty walks on the right bank of the Vesdre and to the residen- tial suburbs of Heusy and Lambermont. Napoleon III. spent a night in the Hotel du Chemin de Fer in 1870, when on his way as a prisoner to Wilhelmshohe. — Travellers in the other direction undergo the Belgian custom-house examination at Verviers. Besides the main line described below another line runs from Vek- viERS TO LiftGE, VIA Herve, in 1 hr. 40 min., traversing numerous viaducts and tunnels, especiallv near (2'/2 M.) Dison (Gr. Hot. de Paris), see p. 232, - Prom (8 M.) BaWce, branch to (13V2 M.) Bletjlevg (p. 231), via (Ti/j M.) Avhel and (10'/2 M.) Eomhourg. — 9V2M. Herve (Poisson d'Or). — From (15M.) Fliron the train descends a rapid gradient to (21 M.) Vauxsous-Gh^vremont and (211/2 M.) Chenie (p. 231). — 24 M. Liege (Gare des Guillemins). 17 M. Verviers-Est. Between Verviers and Dolhain the train passes through seven tunnels. 201/2 M. Dolhain (Hotel d'Allemagne, Hotel du Casino de la Gileppe, both near the station), the last station in Belgium, a modern place, picturesquely situated in the valley of the Vesdre, occupies the site of the lower part of the ancient capital of the duchy of Limburg, which was sacked in 1288 by Duke John I. of Brabant after the Battle of Worringen, afterwards taken and pillaged at different times by the Dutch, the Spaniards, and the French, and at length entirely destroyed by Louis XIV. in 1675. On the height above it is Limburg, the upper town, with the scanty ruins of the castle of that name, the ancestral seat of an ancient family, from which the counts of Luxembourg and the German emperors Henry VII., Charles IV., Wenceslaus, and Sigismund were de- scended. A number of well-built houses have sprung up within the walls of the ancient fortifications, from which peeps forth the old Gothic Church of St. George, containing a tabernacle of 1544, the tomb of a Princess of Nassau (d. 1672), and a Romanesque crypt. The site of the old castle is partly occupied by the elegant chateau of the Andrimont family of Liege, to the gardens of which visitors are adiuitted on application. Fine view from the old Esplanade. — To Bleyberg, see p. 231. From Dolhain a branch-line (6 M. in 20 min.) ascends the valley of the Vesdre via Limburg (see above), O06, and AlembacJi to E up en (p. 234). From Bithane (Restaurant Dejardin), the station at Goe, a visit may be paid to the imposing Barrage de la Gileppe ( H6tel-Restaurant du Barrage), a triumph of modern engineering, constructed in 1869-78 by Messrs. Braive, Caillet, & Co., from a plan by the engineer Bidaut (d. 1868), for the purpose of forming a reservoir of pure, soft water for the use of the manufactories of Verviers. It consists of an immense embankment, 90 yds. long and 72 yds. thick at the base, and 256 yds. long and 16 yds. thick at the top, carried across a narrow part of the valley of the Gileppe. The lake or reservoir thus formed is about 150 ft. in depth, covers an area of 200 acres, and contains 2,700,000,000 gals, of water. It is connected with Verviers by 234 Route 32. SPA. Hotels. an aqueduct, 51/2 M. long, built by Moulan. On the top of the embankment couches a colossal lion, 43 ft. in height, constructed by Boure with 243 blocks of sandstone. The total cost of these waterworks amounted to five million francs. — A pleasant walk may also be taken down the Vesdre to Chene'e (p. 231). 24 '/2 M. Herbesthal (Hotel Bellevue; Hotel Herren; ^Railway Restaurant) ^ the first Prussian station, is the junction for Eupen (Hotel Reinartz) and Raeren (St. Vith-Malmedy, see p. 222 ). The custom-house formalities cause a detention of about 1/2 hr. for trains from Belgium. Beyond (271/2 M.) Astenet the train crosses the Gohl Valley by a viaduct of 17 double arches, 125 ft. high. 29 M. Hery en- rath (station for Vieille-Montagne, p. 231). 30 M. Ronheide. 36 M. Aix-Ia-Ghapelle (see Baedeker's Rhine^. Thence to Maas- tricht, see R. 17 ; to Cologne, Diisseldorf, etc., see Baedeker's Rhine. 32. From Pepinster to Trois-Vierges (Luxe7nbourg). Spa. 45 M. Railway in 2 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 55, 4 fr. 15, 2 fr. 80 c). Pepinster, see p.232. The wooded valley of the Ho'igne, which the railway ascends, is enlivened by a succession of country-houses, gardens, and manufactories. From the bridge &t(^^i^/^M..)JuslenviUe we have a pretty view of the chateau, park, rocks, and high-lying church of that name. — Near (2'/2 M.) Theux (Hotel-Restaurant aux Armes de Franchimont), a quaint little town with several cloth- factories and iron- works, rises a hill on which, to the left, stands the extensive ruined castle of Franchimont, destroyed as early as 1145 (key kept In the village of Marche, to the left, opposite the Lazarist convent). The last proprietor is said to have been a robber- knight, who possessed vast treasures buried in the vaults beneath his castle, where they remain concealed to this day. The tradition is gracefully recorded by Sir Walter Scott in his lines on the Towers of Franchimont, — 'Which, like an eagle's nest in air, Hang o'er the stream and hamlet fair. Deep in their vaults, the peasants say, A mighty treasure buried lay, Amass'd through rapine and through wrong By the last lord of Franchimont'. Above Theux the Hoegne describes a wide curve towards the E., and the train enters the valley of the Wayai. 41/2 M. La Reid; the village is on the hill, 2 M. to the right (comp. p. 238). Farther on, also to the right, lies (6 M.) Marteau (p. 237). 71/2 M. Spa. — Hotels. Hotel de Flandee, Rue Xhrouet 1, R. froi 8, L. 3/4, A. 1, B. IV2, dej. 3V2, D. 5, omn. 1 fr. , with baths and garden; *d'Orange, Rue Royale 4, next the Casino, R. & L. from 5, A. 1, ^ B. 1^4, dej. 4, D. 5, pens, from 13, omn. 1 fr., with garden and private 1 entrance to the Baths; Grand Hotel Bkitannique, Rue de la Sauveniere, K. from 4, L. 3/^^ a. 1, B. IV2-2, dej. 3-4, D. 5, omn. 1 fr., well spoken of; Bellevue, Avenue du Marteau, R., L., & A. from 5, B. li/j- doj. 3V-.', D. 5, pens, form 13, omn. ^/t fr. — Hotel des Pays-Bas, Rue du Marche, )m i t\ turn OTLkamps Stgvelo TT^^^^^^tSwipn'nnT^iJ P Jiu>i«) ■» pi-'^ "I Carriages. SPA. 32. Route. 235 R., L., & A. from 3, B. IV2, d^j. 31/2, D. i'/z, pens. 10-12, omn. 1 fr. ; Hotel D'YoRK (English house), Rue Xhrouet, R., L., & A. 4-5, B. H/a, D. 41/2, omn. 1 fr.; Gr. Hotel des Bains, Place Royale, with lift and baths, R., L., & A. from 4, B. IV2, dej. 3V2-4, D. 41/2 fr. — Du Palais Royal, Rue du Marche; Royal, Rue Amontville ; de Laeken, Rue Leopold; Hotel de LA PosTE, Rue du Marche 1, R., L., & A. 3-6, B. I1/4, dej. 2'/2, D. 4, pens. 9-12 fr.; Continental, Rue Royale 11, opposite the Casino, R. 2-5, L. 1/2, B. 1, dej. 2, D. 3, pens. 8-12 fr. ; des Etrangers, Rue du Marche 42, near the Casino, R., L., & A. 3, B. 1, dej. I1/2, I>. 3, pens. 8 fr. ; dk Cologne, Avenue duMarteau 46, R., L., & A. 2 5, B. 1, dej. 2, D. 3, pens, from 7 fr., well spoken of; Chaine-d'Or, Avenue du Marteau ; ue Ver- sailles, Rue de THotel-de-Ville, pens, from 6 fr. Table-d'hote generally at 6 o'clock. Omnibuses from the principal hotels are in waiting at the station. 'Pension' at some of the hotels 6-13 fr. — Pension Belvedere, Avenue du Lawn-Tennis, on a hill above the town, pens. 6V2-8 fr., patron- ized by English and Americans. Furnished Apartments easily obtained. Restaurants. Casino^ see p. 236; at most of the above-named hotels; at the Promenade de Sept-Heures; at the Git'onslh-e, the Sauveniere, and Barisart, all dear. — Beer at the Taverne de Munich, Place Royale. — Bodega, Place Royale. Carriages. There are three kinds of carriages : those with one horse and seats for two persons; those with one horse and seats for three; and others with two horses. The respective fares for these are: Towr des Fontaines' (a visit to the different springs; 2 hrs.) 6, 8, 10 fr. ; to Sart and Franco)-champs, returning past the Sauvenihre (3V2hrs.), 10, 12, 15 fr.; Thenx and Franddmont (2V2hrs.) 8, 10, 12 fr.; Qrotte de Retnouchamps (3 hrs.) 16, 20, 25 fr.; Cascade de Coo (3 hrs.) 16, 18, 25 fr., via Stavelot 18, 20, 30 fr. Horses. Ponies ('bidets'), of a peculiar variety and as sure-footed as asses or mules, are much used; ride of 2 hrs. 5 fr. ; each additional hour 2 fr. ; Orotte de Remouchamps 15 fr. ; Cascade de Coo 15 fr. ; etc. "Visitors' Tax. Day-tickets for the Casino (except the gaming rooms, see below), the 'Pavilion des Petits-Jeux' the Park and the Winter Garden, 2 fr. ; 1 pers. for a fortnight 15, 2 pers. 24,3 pers. 30 fr.; for the season 20, 35, 45 fr. ; for a single visit of the concerts in the Park, the reading-room or the Pavilion des Petits-Jeux 50 c. Concerts. In the Promenade de Sept Heures at 2.30 and at 7.30 p.m. (see p. 236). Classical concerts on Wed. and Frid. evenings. Post and Telegraph Office, Rue Louise. Clubs. Cercle des Etrangers, at the Casino (subs. 20 fr., including right of admission to the gaming rooms, balls, etc.) ; Union Club ; Lawn Tennis Club. Physicians. Dr. Cafferata (of Liverpool), Rue Royale 16t>Js; Dr. Scheuer, Rue de la Sauveniere; Dr. Albert de Damseaux ; etc. English Church Service, in the handsome English Church in the Boul. des Anglais; Sunday services at 8. 30, 11 , and 7. 30; daily at 8.30 a.m. — Presbyterian Service in July and August at the Chapelle Evange'lique. Spa (820-1080 ft. above the sea-level), a small, attractive- looking town witli 8500 inhab., is prettily situated at the S. base of wooded heights, at the confluence of the Wayai or Spa and the Picherotte. Like other watering-places, it consists chiefly of hotels and lodging-houses, while numerous shops and bazaars with tempt- ing souvenirs and trinkets, a pleasure-seeking throng in the pro- menades, and numbers of importunate valets-de-place and persons of a similar class, all combine to indicate that character which occasioned the introduction of its name into the English language as a generic term. This, the original and genuine 'Spa', the oldest European watering-place of any importance, has flourished since the 16th cent., though it attained its zenith in the 18th century. Peter the Great was a visitor here in 1717, Gustavus HI. of Sweden 236 Route 32. SPA. Springs. in 1780, the Emp. Joseph II. and Prince Henry of Prussia in 1781, and the Emp. Paul, when crown-prince in 1782. After the French Revolution its prosperity began to decline, but it has of late regain- ed much of its popularity, and many new buildings have sprung up. It is now frequented by upwards of 15,000 visitors annually, a large proportion of whom are English. The pretty painted and varnished woodwares offered for sale everywhere are a speciality of Spa [*Bois de Spa'). The 'Elixir de Spa' is a fine liqueur. The town is entered from the station by the Avenue du Marteau (p. 237), which leads past the Queens Palace (formerly the Hotel du Midi) to the Place Royale. The new and imposing Etablissement des Bains situated here is admirably fitted up (open 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. ; baths 1 fr. 20 e.-5 fr. 50 c). Near it, in the Rue Royale, is the Casino, corresponding to the 'Kursaal' of German baths, containing ball, concert, and reading rooms , and a theatre (see p. 235). In the neighbourhood is a new Romanesque church, by Cluysenaar. In the Place Pierre-le-Grand, in the centre "of the town , and nearly opposite the Casino, is situated the chief of the sixteen mineral springs , called the Pouhon (the Walloon word pouhir = puiser in French, and pouhon = puits, or well). The pump-room is adjoined by covered promenades, conversation -rooms, and a beautiful winter-garden. The water of this spring (50° Fahr.), which is perfectly clear, and strongly impregnated with iron and carbonic acid gas, is largely exported. Adjacent, in the Rue Dundas, is the Pouhon du Prince de Conde, the water of which is also exported. The favourite lounge of visitors in the afternoon and evening is the Promenade de Sept-Heures, shaded by magnificent old elms (unfortunately injured by a storm in 1876), where a good band plays (p. 235). On the promenade is the new Galerie Leopold II. The Place Royale (see above), immediately adjoining, is also much fre- quented. During the concerts a charge of 50 c. is made for ad- mission to the Promenade de Sept-Heures (see above), — Pleasant paths diverging from the promenades ascend the hills, leading through the woods to fine points of view. Opposite the music-pavilion of the Place Royale is an ascent to the Montagne d' Annette et Luhin, with a cafe'. We may thence extend our walk down to (4^/2 -^O the valley of the Chawion, which flows into the Wayai near La Reid (p, 234). — The Promenade des Anglais ascends along the Wayai, passing the English Church. A little farther on is the artificial Lac de Warfaz. The various springs in the environs are most conveniently visited in the following order iii 2U2-3 hrs. (He tour des fontaines'' ) . We first follow, passing the Pouhon on the right, the broad Rue de la Cascade, which is embellished by a large grotto with genii, by Jaquet. The prolongation of this street, which leads uphill and is named Rue de la Sauveniere, is crossed by the railway, just after quitting the town. We now follow the highroad (to the Sauveniere, Sprimjs. SPA. 32. Route. 237 II/2M. ; Francorchamps, 5M.), which is shaded by elms, to the-Sa- lon Levoz^ an old gambling-house, with a garden. Here we turn to the left into an avenue, which leads in 20min. (on the left a retrospect- ive view of Spa) to the Tonnelet (250 ft. higher than the Pouhon), a spring now less in vogue that formerly. — About ^/2'M-. to the N.E. of the Tonnelet rises the spring of Niveze, called the Source Marie Henriette, after a visit of the Queen of Belgium in 1868 ; its water is conducted to the Etablissement de Bains. From the Tonnelet a road ascends to the S., through forests of birch and pine, to the (20 min.) Sauveniere (Restaurant), situ- ated 460 ft. above the Pouhon , on the road from Spa to Fran- corchamps and Malmedy. Close to it is the Groesbeck spring, surrounded with plantations, where a monument was erected in 1787 on the Promenade d'Orleans by the Due de Chartres (Louis Philippe), to commemorate the fact that his mother, the Duchess of Orleans, was cured of a serious illness by the waters of the Sau- veniere. At the Fontaine de Groesbeck, women are sometimes observed devoutly drinking the water on their knees , thus show- ing their simple faith in its miraculous virtues. Opposite the Restaurant de la Sauveniere a promenade leads at a right angle from the highroad to the (40 min.) Geronstere (Restau- rant), situated 470 ft. higher than the Pouhon , and also reached (21/2 M.) by a direct road from Spa. (Leaving the Place Pierre-le- Grand by the church on the right, we pass the Hotel de Flandre and ascend the Rue du Vauxhall; about 100 yds. from the railway, we observe, on the left, the former gambling-house of Vauxhall, now a public library, beyond which the road is called the Rue de la Geron- stere.) The Geronstere Spring was formerly the most celebrated. Its properties were tested by Peter the Great, whose physician extols them in a document still preserved at Spa. — The highroad leads totheS., viaLaGleize, to the (51/2 M.) Waterfall of Coo (see p. 222). In returning to Spa from the Geronstere we soon strike a pleas- ant carriage-road or the 'Promenade Meyerbeer' on the left, leading in 20 min. to the Barisart (165 ft. above the Pouhon), which was not enclosed till 1850 (Restaurant). Thence to Spa about 1 M. A beautiful level promenade is afforded by the Avenue du Marteau, a road flanked with a double avenue, and bordered here and there with well-built houses. It leads from the Place Royale to the E., following the course of the Wayai, to (1^/4 M.) Marteau (p. 234), a hamlet with a chateau and gardens. Excursions feom Spa. — The Baraque Michel (2200 ft. ; Hdtel liigi)^ the highest point in Belgium, belonging to the Hohe Venn group on the Prussian frontier, may be reached on foot via Sart-lez-Spa (p. 238j or from Hockai (p. 238; to the Baraque, 472 M.). To THE Cascade of Coo. This expedition may be made either by railway to Trois-Ponts (p. 238), or by road (10 M. ; carr., see p. 235). The road leads past tjie Geronstere and ascends to the Plateau des Fagnes. Farther on the rcJad forks : the left arm leads via (4i,2 M.) Andrimont and Roanne to Coo. 238 Route 32. STAVELOT. To Remouchamps, 10-12 M. (carr., see p. 235). The road descends the valley of the Eo'egne to the station of La Reid (p. 234), and then ascends to the left, through a pretty valley, to Hestroumont and the village of La Reid (885 ft. ; 2 M. from the station). It here unites with the steep but more direct bridle-path from Marteau (see above) via Vieux-Pri. Beyond Hautregard the road descends to Remouchamps (p. 221). The Luxembourg line beyond Spa at first runs towards the E., traversing a hilly and partly- wooded district, and afterwards turns to the S. (views to the left). 12^/2 M. Sart-lez-Spa ; 15 M. Hockai; 171/2 M. Francorchamps. Farther on, a fine view of Stavelot is ob- tained. 22V2 M. Stavelot {Hotel d' Orange, R. IV2, B- 1, de'j. IV2, D. 2, pens. 5 fr. ; Hotel du Commerce, very fair), a busy manufacturing town with 4500 inhab., on the Ambleve, which was the seat of abbots of princely rank and independent jurisdiction down to the Peace of Luneville in 1801. The Benedictine Abbey was founded as early as 651, and its possessions included Malmedy, which has belonged to Prussia since 1815. Part of the Romanesque tower only of the abbey- church is now extant. The parish -church contains the *Chdsse de St. Remade, Bishop of Liege in 652-62, a reliquary of embossed copper, gilded, enamelled, and bejewelled. The niches at the sides are filled with statuettes of the Twelve Apostles, St. Remaclus, and St. Lambert, in silver, executed in the 13th century. Fbom Stavelot to Coo. The following route (5-6 M.) is recommended to pedestrians. A fevs^ paces from the station in the direction of the town (fine view) a path crosses the railway and leads to the left. Beyond the village of Parfondruy tlje path forks (guide-post), the branch to the right, crossing the hill, being the shorter, that to the left affording a good view. About 5 M. to the N.E. of Stavelot (diligence twice daily, crossing the Prussian frontier halfway), in a pretty basin of the Warche., lies the Prussian town of Malmedy C Cheval Blanc ; Grand Cerf; Jacob), the capital of a Walloon district which formerly belonged to the independent Bene- dictine abbey of Malmedy-Stavelot, and was annexed to Prussia in 1815. The abbey-church, originally in the Romanesque style, and the abbey buildings, which are occupied by public offices, form an extensive pile. French is still spoken by the upper classes, and the Walloon dialect by the lower throughout the district (about 10,000 inhab.). The line now follows the valley of the Ambleve. — 251/2 M. Trois-Ponts (see p. 222), where carriages are changed. Cascade of Coo, see p. 222. — Continuation of the line to Luxembourg, see R. 28. LUXEMBOUEG. The Grand-Duchy of Luxembourg^ with an area of about 1000 sq. M. and 217,500 inhab. (almost all Roman Catholics), forms the E. half of the old duchy of Luxembourg (part of the Spanish Netherlands) and from 1839 to 1890 was connected with Holland by a personal union. Down to 1866 it was a member of the Germanic Confederation, but in 1867 it was declared by the Treaty of London a neutral territory, with a separate ad- ministration. After the death of King William IIL of Holland in 1890, it passed according to the treaty of succession to the Grand-duke Adolf (of Nassau ; b. 1817). It still belongs to the German Zollverein or Customs' Union, but as the duty on spirits is not raised as in Germany, a tolerably rigid customs examination takes place. The present duchy includes the N.E. part of the Ardennes and shares the general characteristics of that district, consisting of a somewhat mono- tonous plateau (with an average height of about 1600 ft.), with extensive woods and a somewhat raw climate. The last trait is specially character- istic of the N. part of the duchy, sometimes called the Oesling or Eisling, which belongs to the 'Grauwacke' or clay-slate formation, while the S.E. part consists of variegated sandstone. The plateau, however, is inter- sected by numerous deeply-cut valleys, which offer many points of interest to the tourist and artist. The inhabitants, though of pure Teutonic race, are strongly French in their sympathies, especially in the upper classes. The popular language is a low-German dialect, very unintelligible to strangers; the official lan- guages are Fi-ench and German. The official currency is the same as in Belgium (francs and centimes), the grand-duchy having joined the Latin Monetary Union; but German money is also freely current (comp. p. xii). The hotels are generally good and their charges moderate. The beer and wine is usually fair, even in the smaller villages. The best of the local wines is that of Wormeldingen, on the Moselle. The Eirschengeist, or cherry -brandy, of Befort, near Echternach, has a local reputation. 33. From (Liege) Trois-Vierges to Luxembourg. 43 M. Railway in about 21/2 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 60, 3 fr. 70, 2 fr. 40 e.). — No express trains. From Liege to Trois-Yierges [German Ulflingen), see RR. 28, 32. — Trois-Vierges, see p. 222. Beyond Trois-Vierges the railway, now under German manage- ment, continues to follow the Wolz. 3 M. Maulusmilhle, properly Maulfesmuhle. The sides of the valley increase in height, their upper slopes being wooded. — 5 M. Clerf or Clervaux (Clara vallis), a picturesquely-situated industrial place [Hotel Koner, well spoken of) to the E. of the line, with an old and a new castle of the Count de Berlaymont, visible from the line before and after the passage of the tunnel, but not from the station. Fine view from the adjoining hill called 'Gibraltar' and from the Pavilion. — On a rocky knoll opposite the station lies the Loretto Chapel. — An omnibus runs from Clerf to Dashurg [p. 246). 240 Route 33. OBERWILTZ. From Trois-Vierges Pedestrians will be repaid by alighting from the train at Maulusmiihle and walking thence to Clerf. They follow the right slope of the valley till they reach the road descending from Asselborn, with its leaning church- tower. — At Hetzingen, 3 M. from Asselborn. is the old Klause., with a celebrated carved altar. Near the adjacent frontier-village of Hoffelt be- gins a subterranean canal, li/z M. long, which was intended to connect the Ehine and the Maas, but was abandoned in 1830. — Another pleasant walk may be taken ifrom Clerf along the left bank of the Wolz through the parish ('Kischelf) of Pintscf), via Draxtffelt (see below) to Encheringen near Wilwerwiltz (see below); and thence over the hills (the Plackige Lei) to Erpeldingen and (31/2 bra. from Clerf) Niederwiltz (see below). Several tunnels now follow in rapid succession. 8 M. Drauffelt; 11 M. Wilwerwiltz (Inn, at the station); diligence daily via the Mgli- lying village of Hosingen (Hippert's Inn) to Dashurg (p. 246). Below Wilverwiltz the valley contracts, and as far as Kautenbach it is known as the Clerfihal. The numerous windings of the Wolz^ which is crossed by ten bridges, are avoided by five tunnels. Be- tween the second and third tunnels, to the left, is the picturesque castle of *Schiitburg, still partly inhabited (ascent in 3/^ hr. from Kautenbach via Altscheid, fatiguing). — 15 M. Kautenbach (Rail- way-Restaurant, with bedrooms), a quaint village at the confluence of the Wiltz and the Wolz, with houses clinging to the face of the rock. — A branch-line runs hence to (I71/2 ^0 Bastogne (p. 199) via Wiltz (see below). Another highly interesting walk may be taken to Wiliz (railway, see above and p. 199), with which may be combined a visit to Esch an der Sauer (6-7 hrs.). Leaving Kautenbach we proceed via Mevckholz to Nieder- ■willz (Hames, at the station), a brisk little town with leather and cloth factories, on the left side of the valley. A road leads hence, on the other slope of the valley, to Oberwiltz (Hotel des Ardennes, R, & B. 21/2 fr., carriage 9 fr. per day; H6t. du Com- merce), situated on a narrow ridge, which is crowned by an old castle. "We continue to ascend the road to Esch, and beyond the next cross-roads, we descend, following the telegraph wires (shorter footpaths), into a wooded basin. On the hill to the right lies the village of Biiderscheid. A little lower down we find ourselves at the mouth of the tunnel by which the road to Esch penetrates the high and serrated wall of the Kohlesterlei. Following the windings of the Sarier (fine retrospective view of the cliff's), we see above us the Chapel of St. Anna. Beyond the last bend lies Esch an der Sauer (Greisch, poor J, an unimportant village in a romantic and sequestered situation, from which it is also called Esch-le-Trou ('Esch in the hole"). The ruins of the 'Castle, in the ll-13th cent, the seat of a branch of the ducal family of Lorraine, occupy the top of a bare black rock, bifurcated by a deep indentation and surrounded by loftier heights. The best view of the castle-rock is obtained from the S. side. — In return- ing we may either follow the direct route to Kautenbach (2V2 hrs.) over the plateau, via Hacher and Goesdorf (with an abandoned antimony mine), or proceed by the pleasant road (also diligence) on the left bank of the Sauer to Gobeisinuhle (6 M. ; p. 241). This road diverges from the "SViltz road at the finger-post just on this side of the Sauer bridge, opposite the inn of Reuter-Pennink. and leads high up on the hill-side to the left (views) past Heiderscheidergrund , a prettily situated village on the right bank of the Sauer. About 3 M. farther on is Tadler, with a small waterfall. Below the Buchholtz Mill, to the left, is the huge and precipitous Teufeltlei, and near Derenbach rises another imposing rock We now cross the Sauer twice and reach the narrow ravine of Gobelsmuhle. — On the highroad, I'/z M. to the S."W. of Heiderscheidergrund, is the high-lying village oi Eschdorf (Hot. Weiler, well spoken of), commanding extensive views. to Luxembourg. ETTELBRUCK. 33. Route. 241 The railway continues to follow the narrow, rocky valley of the WUz, which at this point is only partly accessible to walkers. Three tunnels. 1772 M- Oobelsmuhle (Lauterbour , plain), at the con- fluence of the Wiltz and the Sauer. A pleasant walk may be taken by the new road descending the valley of the Sauer towards Hoscheid. — Three more tunnels. On a height to the left is Schlindermander- scheid. To the right, on an isolated hill, is the many-towered castle of Burscheid. The castle owes its dilapidated condition partly to a bombardment by the French in 1685, but chiefly to modern vandalism. The path ascend- to the (40 min.) castle and the village of Burscheid (Inn), which is situ- ated higher up, begins at a group of houses to the left, at the mouth of the tunnel near Michelau (see below). From the top a rough path leads direct to Gobelsmiihle via Fischeiterhof , and from the village a pictur- esque new carriage-road also leads thither in IV2 hr. 20 M. Michelau. The valley of the Sauer contracts , and the train passes through three tunnels. The rocky scenery of this part of the valley (Wildlei, Scharflei, Jaufferslei, Predigtstuhl), seen to advantage from the railway, is better viewed from the new road (^a walk of about S^/o hrs.). — The chateau ot Erpeldingen (stat.) con- tains an alabaster chimney-piece of the Renaissance, illustrating the story of Mucins Scsevola. The valley now expands and forms a wide basin, in which, above the confluence of the Alzette and the Sauer, lies (231/2 M.) Ettelbruck (Herckmans; Wieser; Hotel de VAmirlque; Rail. Restaurant), a small town (4000iuhab.), with an interesting church , pleasantly situated at the confluence of the Warke and the Alzette. Fine view from the Nuck. Beautiful road to (4 M.) Welscheid in the valley of the Warke. From Ettelbruck to Diekirch and Wasterbillig^ see p. 245. — A branch- line (33 M. in 13/4-23/4 hrs.) also runs hence to Petingen (p. 200), via Usel- dingen, with a ruined castle and Gothic chapel. Branch-lines run from Petingen via Rodingen to Athus (p. 200), to Longwy (p. 200), and via Eich on the Alzette (Hotel Klop), a town of 12,0C0 inhab., with iron mines and factories, to Bettemburg, on the Luxembourg and Diedenhofen line (p. 245). At Ettelbriick the train enters the valley of the Alzette, which is at first narrow and picturesque, and follows it to Luxembourg, To the right, on a wooded hill, stands the chateau of Birtringen. — 26 M. Colmar-Berg (Meris; Concemius), at the confluence of the Alzette and Attert, with an old castle of the Counts of Nassau, partly rebuilt in the English-Gothic style by King William III., and sur- rounded with pleasant grounds (visitors admitted). — The valley again contracts. Tunnel. 28 M. Kruchten. FeomKruchten toLaeochette, 71/2 M., narrow-gauge railway in 40,min. (fares 1 fr. 5, 65 c). The line runs via Doi'f Kruchten, Schrondweilev, and JfedejTiacA (where the fine mosaic pavement in the Luxembourg Museum and numerous other Roman antiquities were found). — 71/2 M. Larochette, Ger. Fels (Poste, pens. 5 fr. ; Hdtel de Larochette, both in the market place), finely situated in the valley of the Weisse Erenz and adapted for a stay of some duration. On a rock rising perpendicularly above the town are the exten- sive ruins of the old *Castle (reached by the'Chemin de laRuine'; small fee to the attendant; ring). The N, part of the ruin, including the hall, chapel, and kitchen, is in best preservati(m. The tower on the opposite rock is a relic of a fortress which completely commanded the valley. — Babdeeer's Belgium and Holland. 12th Edit. 16 242 Route 33. BEFORT. From Trois-Vierges From Larochette we may proceed via (1 hr.) the chateau of Meytemburg (shown in the absence of the owner, the Due d'Arenberg) and AngeUherg to (IV2 hr.) Mench (see below). Fbom Larochette to Echteenach, a pleasant excursion of 1-2 days. — A road leads to the E. from Larochette, across the watershed be- tween the Weisse and Schwarze Erenz, to (4'/-.i M.) the village of Chrisinach (Hotel-Restaurant Dondelinger), the Roman Crucenacum, and then descends through the ravine of the Kesselter Bach to the sombre wooded valley of the Schwarze Erenz. [The highroad goes on to Breitweiler and Consdorf (Hotel Mersch), whence we may proceed through the valley of the Lauterbach, with the Leiwerdelt Rocks, to Echternach (p. 2-47) J The upper part of the valley of the Erenz, and also the Blvmenthal, at the mouth of the Hugerbacfi, contain some picturesque rocks, which are, however, inferior to those lower down. — Just below the Breitweiler Bridge begins a series of most fantastic rocky formations (the finest points made accessible by paths and pointed out by finger-posts). The Erenz forms a small waterfall (25 ft. high) at the Promenaden-Briicke. beyond which a path ascends (right) to (25 min.) the Eulenbuvg. the Goldfralei. and the ^Eohlenscheiier (guides at Consdorf, 1 Jf). Skirting the stream, we next reach the Miillerthal, with a group of mills (4i/2 M. from Larochette) ; to the left, on a rocky pin- nacle, are the scanty remains of the Heringerburg or 'Templars' Castle'. Thence we follow the road through beautiful forest to (3 M.) Vogelsmiihle. — Road t(5 Berdorf, see below. Beyond the bridge, at the finger-post marked '4 Kil.\ the new road ascends to the left to Befort or Beaufort {Bleser; Eessler; etc.), a village on the Taupeschbach, famed for its cherry-brandy. In the valley below are the 'new' and the 'old' Castle (visitors admitted) ; the latter, now a factory, is one of the most important Renaissance structures in the country. From Befort we may visit the romantic ' ffallerbach Valley, with its fantastic rocks, natural rock-bridges, and luxuriant vegetation. We descend the valley of the Erenz to Grundhof-Neumilhle (see p. 247; ' Roeder's Inn, plain ; landlord acts as guide), on the railway from Diekirch to Wasserbillig. Paths lead hence to the Schnellert, the top of the lofty cliffs on the right bank of the Erenz. Among the most striking points in the fantastic rocky scenery are the Zigzag Eocks with the ao-called -Toten- kammer', the Hblle Qigbts necessary; low temperature), the Caselt (view), the WinterbachsfeUen, the clefts of the Binzerlei, and the 'Sept Gorges or Sieb enschluff, the latter showing a singular chaos of immense rocks. Guide advisable, enquire at Grundhof or at Berdorf; Thiel of Echternach (Rue de Sure) may also be recommended. — From the Xeumiihle we ascend the plateau, and proceed to the E. to Berdorf (Wagner; Etnnen), a village with an old parish-church ; the altar is formed of a Roman 'ara', with reliefs of Hercules, Juno, MinerA-a, and Apollo (fee to the sacristan). To the S. of Berdorf stretches the Ehsbachthal, with the "Hohllei, an enormous rock with a cavern formed by the quarrying of mill-stones, and popularly supposed to have been first used by the Romans. — A good path descends through the ravine to the rocky gorge known as the Shipka Pass. At the point where the new Berdorf road quits the valley, to the left (sign- post), opens the picturesque valley of the Ealsbach (with the Zigeunerlei and the Wilkeschkammei'). At the angle of the two gorges rises the lofty Perikop, which may be ascended by a kind of rocky 'cheminee' or funnel. Farther on in the Ehsbachthal is the Labyrinth (right bank ; way-post) ; the Geiersiceg, on the left bank, leads to an interesting rocky gateway. At the end of the valley is the romantic ~Wolfsschlucht, through which we may descend to the right (way-post) to the valley of the Sure (p. 246). A pleasant detour may be made via the Droskneppchen, a pavilion which commands a good view of Echternach (p. 247). 3IV2 M. Mersch (Hotel -Restaur, de la Gare; Hotel Steffen ; Weyer; carriage 10 fr. per day), a small town at the confluence of the Ei»ch, the Mamer, and the Alzette. The chateau (17th cent.) contains some fine vaulted apartments. J-mrpertsbarfi Jip'R-irdy^dilPTTiarh /Eich. .Spa T^^Tfl > >l( (ICL- -1 1(1 7 1 JbaUofi- C.2. 2 Athaiee^hliofh.Mtsee B.3. 3 Bains ecLavoir.s B.2. 4; Guunbre desl)epirtes B.3. 5 Hauaiies . . B.2. % lEcdle deMiuiiquR A.2. 7 Sentinairp B.3. Q Eglise S^Alpliojisp B.2. 9 JS'otre -Borne B..'{. 10 !^Cunegomle D.1.2. 11 . 6•*J<'^7/^ C.3. i2 ^]gJt^e St.IIafliieii B.C.l. 13 . StMchel C.2. j 14 Chap.S^Ouirm VA. ; Lo Temple israelite AB.3. 16 Temple -protcstanl B.3. 17 A-pr/ii-' B.2. 18 Supiiid dvil . C.2. Ifl -flti&7 C&; Gmtvernanaxt . B.3. Z I 13 'ivnagoqe C 5 3 Nhaore-EerL C 4 "^ FoitXa/ttoor B 3 I 14; Zvrenuschool B "i , 4- y^^ TT/vt B 3 I 10 rrmienJwf AJ T I !"> i^'o^r vJ)e2fts^uTd^ 5 7f ZozA .SerA:*?!. B 3 ! Graveiihage >f ^ » 1 ""A i*^«rA D 4- itudJfc r;?4ri V '4>^a B i L r T I ■ 12.000 Irt-ograjili.Aiistiilt ttjt\ WBpner*DebPs, Leipzig. DELFT. 38. Route. 263 of the painter Jan Vermeer van Delft (1632-75; comp. p. Ivii). In the 17th and 18th cent, the earthenware of Delft, made in imita- tion of Chinese and Japanese porcelain, was celebrated throughout Europe. This industry afterwards fell into decay but has been revived by Messrs. Joost Thooft ^' Labouchere, whose factory at the Oosteinde (PI. 15; D, 4), is, however, not open to visitors. On leaving the railway-station (PL A, 5) we observe the tower of the Nieuwe Kerk. We cross the Singel-Gracht, and then walk along the canal called Binnenwatersloot (PL B, 4) to the Oude Delft^ which traverses the town from N. to S. On the left bank of the latter is the Gemeenlandshuis van Delfsland (PL 1 ; B, 4), with a Gothic facade of the beginning of the 16th cent., in sandstone. A melancholy celebrity attaches to the Prinsenhof (PL 10; A, B, 3), also on the Oude Delft, as the scene of the death of William of Orange, the Silent, the founder of Dutch independence, who was assassinated here on 10th July, 1584 (see p. 277). ThePrinsen- hof, previously a monastery, was fltted"up in 1575 as a residence for the princes of Orange and was afterwards long used as a barrack, but is now restored and fitted up as a William of Orange Museum (open daily, 10-5, Sun. and holidays 1-5, free). By passing through the door opposite the Oude Kerk, marked 'Gym- nasium Publicum'', and crossing the court, we reach the spot where the tragedy took place, on the first floor, to the right by the staircase. It is marked by an inscription. The mxirderer, a Burgundian named Balthasar Gerhard, who was prompted by a desire to gain the price set upon the hero's head by Alexander Farnese, took up his position in front of the spot thus indicated , and when he discharged his pistol was quite close to his victim, who was descending the staircase with his friends. The marks left by the fatal bullet are still pointed out. Opposite the Prinsenhof , on the site of an earlier church , is situated the Gothic Oude Kerli,{?\. 4 ; B, 3), erected in the 15th cent., with a somewhat leaning tower, and wooden vaulting of 1574. Tickets of adm. (20 c.) at the bookshop, Oude Kerkstraat 5. It contains the monument oi Admiral Alaarten yro77i/>(d. 1653), the victor in tiiirty-two naval battles, the last of which, fought against the English, and the occasion of his death, is represented on the monument. After defeating the English fleet under Blake near the 'Dunes', he caused a broom to be hoisted to his masthead , to signify that he had swept the channel clear of his enemies. Piet Hein (d. 1629), the admiral of the In- dian Company, who in 1628 captured the Spanish 'silver fleet', with its precious freight valued at 12 million florins, also has a monument in this church. A monument with a medallion-figure marks the tomb of the nat- uralist Leemcenhoek.^ a native of Delft (d. 1723). Another interesting monu- ment is that of Elizabeth Morgan (d. 1608), a daughter of Philip van Marnix (p. 251), erected in 1655, and restored in 1856. The carved pulpit, dating from the middle of the 16th cent., resembles that at the Hague p. 279). — The sacristan resides opposite the N. transept in the house No. 3. The choir of the Nieuwe Kerk (PL 3; C, 4), formerly the Church of St. Ursula, in the Groote Markt, another Gothic edifice, built in 1384-96, contains a magnificent *Monumentj begun in 1616 by Hendrik de Keyser and finished by his eldest son Pieter, to the memory of William of Orange. The tower is 375 ft. in height. Tickets (25 c.) at W. A. Reynders' faience-shop, Markt 45. 264 Route 38. DELFT. From Rotterdam The effigy of the prince in marble lies on a black marble sarco- phagus, beneath a canopy supported by four clustered pillars and six isolated columns, all likewise of marble. In the niches of the pillars stand four allegorical figures: Liberty is represented with a sceptre, a cap of liberty, and the motto, '/e maintiendrai piiti et justice''; Justice with her scales, beside which is inscribed William's favourite motto, '■Saevis tran- quillus in iindis'' ; Prudence, with a twig of thorn in her hand; Religion, with the Bible in one hand, and a miniature church in the other, whilst her foot rests on a corner-stone emblematical of Christ. At the head of the statue is placed a second statue in bronze, representing the prince in full military accoutrement, while at the feet is a bronze figure of Fame, with outspread wings, 6 ft. in height, resting on the ground on the point of the left foot only. The dog, on which, in mediaeval fashion, the feet of the recumbent figure rest, is placed there in memory of the prince's favourite dog, which was the means of saving his life in 1572 when he was attacked at night by two Spanish assassins in his camp at Malines. The inscription, on the canopy, is pointed out by weeping genii. The pillars are surmounted by obelisks. Beneath the same stone the prince's wife and his son Prince Maurice (b. 1567, d. 1625) also repose. The church afterwards became the burial-place of all the princes of the House of Orange, down to the present day. Another simple monument marks the tomb of Hugo Grotius (see below and p. 262). In the market-place, in front of the church, is a hronze Statue of Hugo Grotius (p. 262), hy Stracke'e, erected in 1886.— The handsome Stadhuis (PI. 12), on the W. side of the market-place, restored by H. de Keyser after a fire in 1618, with a Gothic belfry, contains a few good pictures. Of special interest are the paintings of Michiel Janszoon van Miere- velt (Delft, 1567-1641). the first of the great Dutch portrait-painters. A room on the groundfloor contains a large corporation-piece (arquebusiers) by him, depicting 36 persons, with faces full of life and energy, but inart- istically grouped; also a corporation -piece of 31 gesticulating figures by /. W. Delph, 1592; and others by Rochvs Delff. Jacob Delffii%!^). etc. — The burgomaster's room contains a portrait of Hugo Grotius, and the marriage-room a portrait by Mierevelt. In a room on the first floor are portraits of the princes William I., Maurice, Philip William, and Frederick Henry of Orange and of Counts William Lewis and Ernest Casimir of Nassau, all by Mierevelt. Two doors beyond the Synagogue (narrow passage; ring) stands the Town Hospital {Liefdadig Inrichting ; PI. 7, C 5). The latter contains four anatomical pictures (comp. p. liii), including one of the earliest paintings of the kind, executed together by the two Mierevelts in 1617; the three other pictures are of later date. Near the Rotterdam Gate rises the Arsenal (PI. B, 5), a large, gloomy building, adorned with the arms of the old Dutch Republic. It was originally a warehouse of the E. India Company. The Polytechnic School (PI. 8 ; B, 5), on the Oude Delft (p. 263), is attended by about 300 students. — To the N.E., in the Phoenix- straat, is the handsome Renaissance building of the Studenten- Societeit Phoenix (PI. A, B, 4 ), rebuilt since a fire in 1872 by Gugel. The Railway journey from Delft to the Hague occupies 1/4 hr. only. At Stat. Ryswyk the celebrated peace between England, France, Holland, Germany, and Spain was concluded in 1697. The palace of the Prince of Orange , where the treaty was signed , no longer exists, but its site is marked by an obelisk erected in 1792. to Amsterdam. HALFWEG. 38. Route. 265 141/2 M. The Hague, see below. From the Hague to Gouda, see p. 364. 201/2 M. Voorschoten ; to the right rises the church-tower of the village, which is connected with the Hague and Leyden hy steam- tramway (p. 267; omnibus to Wassenaer'). The train now crosses the narrow arm of the Rhine which retains the name down to its efflux into the North Sea, 24 M. Leyden, see p. 288. From Letden to Woekden (for Utrecht)^ 21 M., railway in ^ji lir. — 6 M. Hazerswoude-Koiidekerk; 91/2 M. Alphen; \2^l-z M. Zwammerdam ; 14 M. Bodegraven (steam-tramway to Gouda, p. 365); 21 BI. Woerden. From Woerden via Harmelen to Utrecht, see p. 365. 251/2 M. Warmond^ to the left of which rises a large Roman Ca- tholic seminary. 30 M. Piet-Gyzenbrvg (3 M. to the N.E. of Noord- wyk, p. 294); 331/2 M. Veenenburg ; 361/2 M. Vogelenzang. About IV2 M. to the E. of stat. Vogelenzang, near the village of Bermebroek, is situated Hartenkamp, a country-residence, where Linne (Lin- naeus) , the celebrated Swedish naturalist, resided in 1736-38 with his wealthy patron George Cliflbrd, who was English ambassador at that time. Linne wrote his 'Hortus Cliffordianus' here. The line traverses for a short distance the E. slopes of the North Sea Dunes. On the right, and sometimes on the left also, brilliant beds of hyacinths and tulips are in bloom in spring. — 42 M. Haarlem (p. 295) is the junction for Amsterdam, and for Alkmaar and the Helder (R. 44). The Amsterdam line turns towards the E. , running parallel with the canal and the high-road in a perfectly straight course. The Fort aan de Liede is seen on the right , immediately after the train has quitted the station. The line now traverses an extensive plain, formed on the right by the Haarlemmer Polder, and on the left by the newly-reclaimed Polder of the Y (see p. 345). The Haar- lemer Polder was reclaimed in 1840-53 from a lake known as the Haarlemmer Meer; its area is about 72 ?q. M., and the land reclaimed realised an average price of 200 fl. per acre, while its present value is estimated at 800 fl. per acre. The population of this district is now about 16,000. At (47 M.) Halfweg, strong lock-gates formerly separated the waters of the Y from the Haarlemmer Meer. The old chateau of Zwanenhurg near the railway, dating from the 17th cent., is now a sugar manufactory. 521/2 M. Amsterdam, see p. 302. 39. The Hague. Comp. the Plan., p. 2S4. Railway Stations. 1. Dutcfi Station (PI. D, 8), for Rotterdam, Leyden. Haarlem, and Amsterdam ; 2. State Station (PI. F, 5, 6), for Gouda (Rotter- dam, Amsterdam), Utrecht, and Arnhem. Good Buffets at both (plat du jour 60c., D. from I'^fl). Tramways from the stations into the town, and cabs, see p. 266; steam-tramway to Scheveningen, see p. 285. Hotels. *ViEtTX Doelen (PI. d; E, 4), Tournooiveld 3-5, an old-estab- lished house comfortably and elegantly fitted up (doel, a common sign for 266 Route 39. THE HAGUE. Hotels. inns in Holland, means target' ; doelen, 'shooting gallery') •, ""Hotel des Inbes (PI. a; E 4), Lange Voorhout. refurnished in 1837, similar style and charges ; *H6tel Bellevce (PI. h ^ F, 5), Bezuidenhout 15, near the Park and the State station : *H6tel Paulez (PI. e: E, 4), Korte "Voorhout 2, opposite the theatre, good cuisine; at all these the charsres are similar: R , L., & A. from 2-21/2 fi., B. 80 c, dej. 2-21/2, D. 21/2, pens, from 6, omn. y-z-^/i H. - *H6tel de l'Eckope (PI. c; E, 5), Lange Hout-Straat 6, R., L., & A. 2, B. 3/*) !>• 2, pens. 5, omn. 1/2 fl. ; 'Twee Steden (PI. m; D. 5), Buitenhof; Hotel Angleteeee (PL 1; D, 6), Eerste Wagen-Straat 22, R., L., & A. 11/2, B. 3/4, D- 21/2, pens. 41/2 fl., patronized by English travellers-, Cen- tral (PI, g; D, 5). Lange Pooten 24a, with a cafe-restaurant, R, L., ogi and children; Willems, Lady and cavalier. To the right of the entrance: Verveer, Canal at Amsterdam; Horace Vemet , The last cartridge; Winferhalter, Koman women; Waldorp, Sea-piece. — On the opposite wall: ^Meissonier, Soldiers playing cards; Bles, By the cradle; Bougtiereau, Girl knitting; Laiulelle. Girl with friiit; Villegas, Siesta. — Back-wall, to the left: Meyer. Sea-piece; Kobell^ Landscape with cattle; VerscTiuur., Stable; Noel, Tavern; (Sc7ieZ/7»o?<<, Winter-scene near Kaarlem; Navez, Roman women; Koekkoek, In the forest. Among the ^Ancient Pictures are specimens of the chief Dutch masters of the 17th cent., some of them being cabinet-pieces of the first rank. There are in all upwards of 80 works, which fill the two following rooms. Room II. On the left: 'Rembrandt, Bathsheba, after her bath, watched from a distance by King David. The beautiful Jewess is seated on a rug in a thickly-wooded park , by the side of the basin in which she has been bathing; beside her are two attendants. The arrangement of the picture is analogous to that of the Susanna in the Mauritshuis (p. 275), hut this work is the finer of the two. The chiaroscuro, against which, as in the Susanna, the female figure stands in exquisite relief, is treated in the most masterly style, forcibly recalling the famous 'Night Watch' at Amsterdam. According to Vosmaer, the Bathsheba was painted in 1643 , less than a year after the completion of that splendid work. — As if to enhance the effect, another picture is hung below of the same sub- ject by Van der Werff, whose smooth and elegant Bathsheba almost re- sembles a wax figure when compared with the warm and life-like crea- tion of Rembrandt. Rubens, Heads of SS. Peter and Paul; A. van de Velde , Cattle; Rubens, Drunken Bacchus; Alb. Ciiyp , Horse; Rubens, Infant Christ; Jordaens, At the fountain; Peter de Hooch, Musical party. — Govaert Flinck, Portraits of a man and woman (1B48) ; Th. de Keyser, Portrait of a man ; Paul Potter, Three cows; Nic. Maes, Peasant woman making pancakes, and a boy eating them. Room III. Right wall, beginning at the window: J. van Ruysdael. Waterfall; ^. •»«/» Os/af?e, Interior of a cottage; Terburg, Mother dressing her daughter's hair; Karel du Jardin. Herd-boy playing with his dog ; Te- nters the Younger. The Seven Works of Mercy (1644) ; Jan Steen. The painter and his family, nearly life-size, an unusually large work for this master; G. Metsu, Mother with a sick child; W. van de Velde, Sea-piece ; Jan Steen, Physician's visit; Rembrandt (?), Mother and child. — Entrance-wall: Allart van Everdingen, Waterfall; A. van Ostade, Pig driven from market; F.Bol. 282 Route 39. THE HAGUE. Royal Library. Portrait; L. Bakhuysen, Sea-piece. Third wall: C. Netscher , Two por- traits ; "Adr. Brotiwer , Portrait of the painter himself with Fr. Hals, A. van Ostade, J. Steen, and A. de Vois; "^Hobbema , Large landscape; Th. de Keijsei% Lace-maker; Mieris and Slingeland^ The captive mouse; Ger. Dou, Portraits of a man and woman; Arie de Vois^ Peasant smoking; A. van Ostade^ Peasants; Fr. van Mieris. Boy with a cage. Also numerous landscapes. In the adjacent square, called the Kxeuterdye (PI. C, 3), is the office of the Minister of Finance (PI. 38), originally the house of Oldeuharneveld. To the left runs the Noobdeixde (PI. C, 4, 3), With the Royal Palace, built in the time of Stadtholder William III., an d containing a few unimportant family-paintings (admission only inthe a hsence of the royal family, see p. 267). In front of the palace stands the equestrian Statue of Prince William I. of Orange (PL 47), in hronze, designed by Count Nieuwerkerke, and erected by King William II. in 1845. On the pedestal are the arms of the seven provinces. Behind the statue, the Paleisstraat (PI. D, 4, 3), diverging to the N.E., leads through what was once the garden of the palace to the Oraniestraat, and farther on to thePark-Straat (p. 283). To the N. , the Noordeinde is prolonged by the Zebsteaat (PI. C, 2), which, passing the Panorama (p. 267), the Willems-Park (p. 283), and (to the left) De Boers Bazaar (p. 267), leads to the old Scheven- ingen road (p. 287). Shortly before the last diverges the handsome Laanv an Meerdervoort (PI. C-A, 1). The Kneuterdyk is bounded on the E. by the Langb Voobsout (PI. D, E, 2), a square planted with trees, which, along with the Kneuterdyk and the Noordeinde, forms the finest quarter of the town. On the S. side is the Navy Office (PL 41 ; D,4), Lange Voor- hout 7. — Nearly opposite, Lange Voorhout 34, is the — Eoyal Library (PI. 3; E, 4), occupying an edifice built by Huguetan, Louis XIV.'s banker. The library, founded in 1798 (adm., see p. 267), contains about 500,000 volumes. The most interesting objects are exhibited in a room on the upper floor. The miniatures in the Prayer-Book of Philippe le Bon of Burgundy, painted in grisaille (1455-65), are of great artistic value, several of them, auch as the Annunciation and Coronation of the Virgin, in the style of Memling. The Prayer-Books of Isabella of Castile (1450), Catharine of Aragon, and Catherine de Medicis ; a Gospel of the 10th cent. ; a Psalter of the 12th cent. ; a Bible with autograph of Mary Stuart, presented to William III. and Mary on their coronation (1689); etc., also merit inspection. The valuable Collection of Coins, Medals, and Gems in the same building (adm., see p. 267) contains upwards of 40,(XX) coins and medals, and over 300 cameos. The finest specimens are exhibited. The Coins, including excellent specimens of the Greek coins of the Seleucidfe and the Ptolemies, are arranged chronologically. The collection of Medals includes interesting Dutch Memorial Medals^ with busts of Stadtholders and princes of the house of Xassau ('Portrait of Prince Maurice) and of Dutch naval heroes; also medals commemorating the Peace of Westphalia in 1648, etc. Most of the Cameos are antique and belonged to the antiquarian Hemsterhuis (d. 1766), whose collection was described by Goethe in 1792. The following are among the finest: Head of Hercules; bust of Bacchus; Faun attempting to rob a Bacchante of her robe; reversed lyre with National Monument. THE HAGUE. 39. Route. 283 horns represented by two dolphins, springing from a rose-crowned head of Cupid, grouped artistically with the panther of Bacchus, which holds the thyrsus in its front paw; mask with large beard and open mouth; mask with long beard and elegantly arranged hair; Venus and Cupid; Cybele riding on the lion; giant dragging a griffin from a cavern ; helmeted head in profile, with a long beard ; Homer as a statue ; several portrait- heads ; etc. Among the opaque stones is a cameo with the Apotheosis of the Emp. Clauduis, one of the largey* known; also a fine head of Livia or Octavia. Between the glass-cases, golden Vase, adorned with enamel and cameos. — The collection of Assyrian Cylinders and Etruscan and Greek Scarabnei may al.=o be mentioned. Head of Jledusa, in cornelian, a beau- tiful modern work. The catalogue by the director gives full particulars about every object in the collection. On the E. side of tlie Lange Yoorhout an octagonal sandstone monument was erected in 1866 (PI. 48; E, 4} to Duke Charles Bern- hard of Sax e- Weimar (d. 1862), who distinguished himself in the Dutch service at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815, in the battles against the Belgian insurgents in 1831, and in the East Indian Wars of 1849. — Adjacent, in the Korte Yorhout, rise the Theatre (PL 68; E, 4), and the Palace of Princess Marie (p\. 57; F, 4), the late king's cousin. On the Prinsesse-Gracht is the Cannon Foundry (PL 11 ; E, F, 4 ), beyond which (No. 30) is the Museum Meermaxno-Westreenianum: (PL 51 ; F, 4), a somewhat motley collection of MSS., specimens of early typography, coins, ancient vases, a few small ancient sculp- tures, Japanese curiosities, etc. , bequeathed by Baron Westreenen (d. 1850). Admission, see p. 267. The most interesting MSS. are a fragment of an Old Testament of the 5th cent. ; a book of the Gospels of the 9th cent. ; a Flemish Bible in rhyme, of 1332 ; a French Bible with miniatures by Jan of Bniges, executed in 1371 for Charles V., the Wise, of France; the Ethics of Aristotle in French, of 1376, with miniatures in grisaille ; French translation of Au- gustine's 'De Civitate Dei", with numerous miniatures (end of the 15th, or early in the 16th cent.); and several others of the early Flemish and Dutch schools. Among the specimens of Ttpographt are several block- books, such as were common at the close of the middle ages, particularly in Holland; incunabula of Gutenberg and Caxton^ etc. From the Lange Voorhout (p. 282), the Park-Straat (PL D, 4, 3) leads past the new Roman Catholic Church of St. James (PL 23 ; D, 3), built by P. J. H. Cuypers, to the Willems-Park (PL D, 2), a new quarter with pleasant houses and gardens. In the centre, on an open place called the Plein 1813, a large imposing National Monument (PL 44) was unveiled in 1869, to commemorate the restoration of Dutch independence in 1813 and the return of Prince William Frederick of Orange, who afterwards became king. On the massive substructure rises a lofty rectangular column bearing a smaller one which is adorned with the arms of the kingdom and the seven provinces, the whole being crowned with a Bataviain bronze, holding a banner in her right hand and a sheaf of arrows in the left, with the lion of the Netherlands at her feet. On the side facing the town Prince William Frederick is represented in his coronation- robes, swearing to maintain the constitution. At the back are Gys- 284 Route 39. THE HAGUE. Eaagsche Bosch. tert Karel van Hogendorp, Fr. Ad. van der Duyn, and Count L. van Liml)urg-Styrum, the leaders of the risii)g in Novem"ber, 1813. The figures on the narrow sides are emblematical of Liberty and Law. All these figures are in bronze, having been modelled by Jaquet. Two reliefs on the round part of the pedestal represent the rising of the people and the arrival of the king. The whole monument was designed by W. C. van der Wayen-Pieterszen and Koelman. — On the N. side, the Willems-Park is skirted by the Java-Straat [PL D, 2, 1), which leads to the old Scheveningen road (p. 286). TheNieuwe Kerk(Pl. D, 6; sacristan, Bezem-Straat 19), on the Spui, with wooden vaulting, was begun in 1649 ; it contains the tombs of the De Witts (p. 278) and of Spinoza (near the pulpit). Spinoza's House, Paveljoensgracht 32, opposite the Doublet-Straat (PI. C, 6), was occupied by the great philosopher from 1671 down to his death in 1677. Adjacent is a bronze Statue of Spinoza (PL 49), by Hexamer, erected in 1880. The Zoological - Botanic Garden (PL F, 3) is a favourite place of recreation, containing a fair collection of birds and a few other animals. Adm., seep. 267; concerts on Mon. and often Frid. evenings in summer, and on Snn. afternoons in winter (adm. 1 fl. j restaurant). To the S. of the Zoological Garden is the Malieveld, the drill- ing-ground of the garrison. Farther on begins the beautiful *Haag- sche Bosch, (het Bosch), a park-like forest intersected by avenues in different directions, and about IV2 M. in length. In the centre is a large garden-restaurant belonging to the Witte or Litteraire Societeit (p. 278), to which admission is granted only on introduction. On Sun. 2.30 p.m. , and on Wed. 7.30 p.m., a band plays here and attracts numerous visitors. Near the road the forest is traversed by regular avenues of stately old trees, while the remoter parts are in their primitive condition. Comp. the small map on the Plan. Near the N.E. corner of the Park, about 1' 2^1- from the Hague, is situated the Huis ten Bosch, i. e. the 'House in the Wood', a royal villa, erected in 1647 by Pieter Post for Princess Amalia of Solms, widow of Prince Frederick Henry of Orange (p. xxxii). Vis- itors to the villa may make use of the tramway No. 2 b (p. 266) from the Plein to Bezuidenhout, the terminus of which is in the Laan van Nieuw-Oosteinde (see Map of Environs). Those who walk through the Bosch turn to the right at the end of the ornamental water and soon reach the gate to the grounds surrounding the villa. The Interior is worthy of a visit. (Ring at the door in the right wing ; adm., see p. 267; catalogues for the use of visitors.) The Dining Room is embellished with grisailles by De Wit (1749) of Meleager , Atalanta, Venus, Adonis, and Genii, painted in imitation of bas-reliefs, and pro- ducing an almost perfect illusion ; it also contains Chinese. Saxon (Meissen), and Delft porcelain of 1748. In the Chinese Room is some tapestry of rice- paper of the 18th century. The Japanese Room contains bright-coloured embroidery with birds and plants , presented to Prince William V. of Orange in 1795, Japanese cabinets, etc. § iBiA¥EiMA@E .. Bojdxnrichting C.5J).3. \. Bazar, XoTiiTikl.,(])e.^oer> C.2. \. BibUotheeJc.SbninM, E.^. i.BeCbU} E.4. 't.BiacanieWeeslmis B.C.7. \.I)i2iffeivtia . D.4«. 1. Gastkuis B.6. J. Geboirvr -van Mazsten. en Wikten - schappeTL F.5. ). &ere£hts?wf L.5. ). Greschuthoorderif ... F.3. L Geschutgieterif E.F.4. ;. Gevangenpoort D.4;. J. &aiiv^erneme7ttTr. ZJHbUand. E.4. \t. KGeestBbffB C.6. i. Bbog&Baady d^.lNederlanderv . n).5. >. SabijietimTV Qncv^e. L.S. 7. }. „ Boussod,Vala/iomCdJiA. „ Jhr.Steengracht D.4. KerteiL : ). A-postolisdh£,K. . . ^. Bethlehems K. L Franscheir.. . . 2.BAntoTtizLS ervLodewifks K. "i. BJakolnis K. 4. EoogduitscfiA K. ^.KTheresicLK. 6. HJmLebrardus K 7. laoofsterK. 8. LxitJiersdieX. 9. OnzeLievE-TrouwBK. 0. Oud-Boomsche K. 1. BerrwTistrantscJLe,K. 2. 3? J^o^^y^ X 3. Wmems K 34. Leesijtrichting 35 . Manege, cffJtgschool 36 JMbiisterie v.Binnenl. Zaken 37. , T.Buitenl.Zaken 38. „ v.Finanden B.3. B.4. CJ).4. F.5. D.3. E.5. B.5. B.5. D.4. C.6. A3. C.4. D.C.5. D.7. E.2. C.4. DE.3. D.5. D.5. D.4. "i^.^Biristerip ir.Jiistitie 40. „ vJLoTonien 41. „ • ~v. Jfartne 4i2. „ v: Oorlog 43. D.E.5. E.5. D.4. E.5. ^Waterstcuit , BixndeLYi.a. Momimeivteii : 44. TrJ>ie£rlandsB(^Yling 1813 D.2. 45. ^SKoningWniem B D.5. 46. ^.FrinsWaianl E.5. 47. T-BrinsWUJ£mI(Euzterstandb.> C.4. 48. v-.Bertog -^. SaocenWeinuir E.4. 49. ArS-pinoza. C.6. Musea: ^O.Ganeent&Ifuseujn. E.4. ^\JMeamtcutnoWestreenianian E.4. ^"iMauritshids E.5. 54t.i[uzgJisc7}ooI,Ko7un7d. . - B,5. 55. Folds derSbimu/in Moeder E.4. 56. „ Fr-ijis^r.Orcmge D.4. 57. „ Brills v-Wied E.E.4. 58. Jb//Ae C.5. 59. Bost en lelegraaf C.5. 60. Bidderzaal D.5. 61. Bi/Jis .Archie f E.5. 62. Studhiiis C.5. 63. Staien-Generaa7 D.5. 64. SynagocfcBoUandsdJie. C.6. 65. „ ,Bortuge£sclie EJ'.4. 66. leeken Akadjarde P. 5. 67. Tramxireg-Station D.7. 68. Sdiowwburg . E.4. 69. VischTnarkt C.5. 70. Yrgmetsplaars Loge E.5. 71. ^ntteoflittercureSocieted E.5. ^GRAViMHAGE ^tj^f^^^ Tramways. . SCHEVENINGEN. 40. Route. 285 The cliief attraction is the "Orange Saloon, an octagonal hall adorned with scenes from the life of Prince Frederick Henry, painted by artists of the School of Hubens (comp. Introd., p. 1), and lighted partly by the cup- ola above, and partly from the sides. The walls are about 50 ft. in height, the lower part being covered with canvas, while the upper part is of wood. The best of these paintings is that which covers the principal wall, by Jordaens, representing the triumph of the young prince over vice, sick- ness, and other enemies of youth. The others contain several bold and finely-conceived groups, but exhibit numerous traces of the inaccurate drawing of Rubens's school, while the general effect is far from pleasing. A pleasant Excursion may t>e taken from the Hague (2-3 hrs'. driving; steam-tramway, see p. 267) along the Leyden road ['Straat- weg naar Leiden' ; PL F, 4), through the Park, and then by the 'Papenlaan' to Voorschoten(ji). 265), returning to the Leidscfte Dam, and Voorburg, near which is the popular resort of Wykerbrug , with a restaurant. Then back by the 'Laan van Nieuw-Oostemde\ to the S. of the Bosch. — Another steam-tramway (p. 267) runs from the Hague to the S.W. via Halfweg (near which is the prettily-situated cemetery of Eik ten Duin) to (25 min.) Loosduinen (branch-line to the new sea-bathing resort of Kykduin) and via Poeldyk to (1 hr. 10 min.) Gravesande, whence omnibuses ply to the .Ho efc van Hol- land (p. 262) and to Naaldioyk. This line intersects the fertile Westland, noted for its fruit, particularly its excellent grapes. 40. Scheveningen. The following conveyances ply between the Hague and Scheveningen, a distance of 2V2-3 M. 1. Steam Tkamwat of the Dutch and Rhenish Railway (Stoom Tramway der Nederl. Pihyn-Spoorweg Maatschappi/), in 20 min. , starting from the Rhenish Station (PI. F, 6, 5; stopping-place at the Hotel Bellevue, p. 266), every 10-20 min. during the season. The station at Scheveningen is close to the German Protestant Church, near the Kurhaus. 2. Steam Tramway of the Dutch Railway {Hollandsche Yzeren Spoor- weg Maatschappy). in 1/2 hr.. starting from the Dutch Station (PI. D, 8; p. 265 ; in connection with the trains) and from the Anna-Paulowna-Straat (PI. C, 1). The station at Scheveningen lies at the W. end of the village, close to the Hotel Zeerust. Fares on both lines, 25 or 15 c, 10 tickets 2 or 1 fl. ; tickets are obtained in the car. In returning, travellers may procure through railway-tickets and book their luggage at Scheveningen. 3. Electeic Tramway, starting from the Plein (PL E, 5), through the Lange Voorhout and Koninginnegracht (PI. F, 4-1), then by the new Scheveningen road to the Kurhaus, in summer every V4-V2 ^^•■, iii ^^^ afternoon every 772 min. ; time about 18 min., fares 20 and 15 c. 4. Tramway, also starting from the Plein (PI. E, 5), by the Vyverberg, Kneuterdyk (PL D, 4), Park-Straat, Plein 1813 (PL D, 2). Java-Straat, and the old Scheveningen road (p. 287) to the Kurhaus, every 15 min. in the forenoon, every 10 min. in the afternoon; time, 1/2 hr. ; fare 25 c. (five sections, each 5 c). 5. Tramway from the Noordwal (PI. B, 4) by the Anna Paiilowna Straat and the old Scheveningen road to the Kurhaus, every 10 min., in summer only; time 25 min. Hotels. At the height of the season it is advisable to secure rooms in advance; in June and after 15th Sept. charges are usually lower. Dejeuner at 12, D. usually at 5.30 p.m. — *H6tel Kurhaus (p. 287; open from 286 Route 40. SCHEVENINGEN. Hotels. June to Sept.). 200 K., from I'/a A., L. 50, B. 75 c, dej. li/z, table-d'hote 21/2 fl., pens, from 6 fl. — To the >T. is the *H6tel d'Obange, a large house situated on the Dunes, R. from 21/2, dej. IV2, D. 21/2, board 41/4 fl. Adjoining this hotel is the Pavilion, a building containing twelve distinct suites of furnished apartments for families, each of which is let for 1500- 1800 fl. for the season. — To the S. of the Curhaus is the Hotel des Galeries . no sea-view, with a restaurant, cafe, and shops on the groundfloor-, R. IV2-5 fl., A. 25, L. 25, B, 60 c, dej. IV4, D. 21/4, pens. 5 fl. — 'Hotel Garni, with about 190 rooms, R. from 1 fl., B. 70 c, D. 2-2V2. board 4 fl. — Hotel Eauch, E., L., & a. from IV2 fl., B. 75 c, de'j. IV2, D. 21/2, pens, from 5 fl. ; Hotel Zeerust, R. 1-6 fl. ; the three last, with terraces, on the Dunes, to the right and left at the end of the principal street of the village. — There are also several villas on the Dunes, which are let to summer-visitors. Behind the Dunes, without a view of the sea: Hotel-Restaurant Neck, Hotel Rotal (pens., incl. R., from 4 fl.), both in the Badhuisweg leading to the S.E. from the Kurhaus, 7* ^^^ ^ ^- from the Kurhaus. — In the Gevels Deinoot Weg (p. 2>Sj : Hotel-Restaurant Alteburg ; Hotel- Restaurant ZoMERHOF, R. & B. from 2, pens, from 4fl.; Schnitzler, Hotel-Restaurant Ketl, both Jewish, the latter behind the Cafe'-Restau- rant Seinpost (p. 287j; Hotel-Restaurant Paulez, immediately behind the zeerust, R. & B. from 2, pens, from 4 fl., plat du jour 80 c. — Farther distant, in the Scheveningsche Bosch (p. 287) : "Park Hotel, a handsome new building in the Dutch Renaissance style also fitted up as a winter resort, fashionable, R. from 21/2, board 41/40.; 'Hotel-Restaurant de la Promenade, the halfwav point of the tramwav-route fsee p. 287). R., L., ^^ _^ I BitfchopehfL Vmewn .C.3.4'. 1^ 2 6o*«^7 i ftanxlbcUd . B .4. ■^03^ 3 (roicreriu'/nent . .C.3. L JKerken ^ 5 GrooteKerX B.C.*. 6 Nipunre Kerk . A. 5. 7 Janskerk .B.C. 3. ^ 8 RooTiuch -mtOwheke Eerk C . 3 . 9 PoitkcaUoor . B.-i. 10 5cfe/nc»&i/7y ^Jtci««^y . .C.2. M.Stadhuis . B-J;. "^ 12 Teybr s Yu^eunv . C.4. ""^gner & Debes, Lerpri| Groote Kerk. HAARLEM. 42. Route. 297 now used for military purposes, said to be older than the Meat Market, and restored about 1650. The Groote Kerk {St. Bavo; PL 5; B, C, 4) is an imposing and lofty cruciform church, erected at the close of the 15th century, with a tower 255 ft. high, completed in 1519. A thorough re- storation of the edifice has recently been completed. *Interiok (sacristan's house on the S. side of the choir). The vaulting rests on twenty-eight columns, on which decorative paintings of the end of the l6th cent, have lately been brought to light. The nave and choir were apparently meant to be covered by stone vaulting, but are provided merely with a cedar-wood roof of cross-vaulting, dating from 1530. The roof above the intersection of the nave and transept is, however, of stone. The choir-stalls are fine, and also the late-Gothic brazen screen separating the choir from the nave, which was erected in 1510 by Diderik Syhrands- zoon of 3Ialines and is adorned with numerous civic arms; the side railings in the inner choir are in the early Renaissance style (1540). — By one of the pillars, to the right in the choir, is a monument to the memory of Conrad (d. 180S), the engineer who constructed the locks of Katwyk (p. 295) , and his coadjutor Brunings (d. 1805). The small models of ships suspended from the adjoining arch commemorate the 15th Crusade, under Count William I. of Holland. They date from 1668. the originals having fallen into decay. By the choir is the tomb of Bilderdyk, the poet (d. 1831). The sounding-board of the pulpit in carved wood is Grothic (1432), while the pulpit itself and its handsome brass railings belong to the 18th century. A cannon-ball in the wall is a reminiscence of the Spanish siege. The pleasing group in marble below the organ, by Xavery^ represents ecclesiastical poetry and music, expressing their gratitude to Haarlem for the erection of the organ. — The stained glass in the nave is modern; the chandeliers are after 16th cent, patterns. The "Organ, constructed in 1735-38 by Christ. Miiller, and thoroughly restored in 1868, was long considered the largest and most powerful in the world, and still ranks as one of the largest instruments in existence. It possesses 3 keyboards, 60 stops, and 50(X) pipes, the largest of which is 15 inches in diameter and 32 ft. long. Public recitals take place on Tues. 1 to 2 p. m. and on Thurs. 2 to 3 p. m.; at other times the organist may be engaged to play for a fee of 13 fl.. which admits one or more persons. In front of the church rises a bronze Statue of Coster (PL 2 ; B, 4), the alleged inventor of printing, by Royer, erected in 1856. The controversy as to whether Coster or Gute/iberg was the real inventor of printing may now be considered definitely settled in favour of the latter. Recent investigations in the town-records have , indeed, proved that a certain Laurenz Janszoon Coster lived at Haarlem in 1451-55 as a wine-dealer and tavern-keeper, and that he left the town in 1483; but no mention has been found of any printing-office in his possessi(in. In any case, the works printed by this Coster, if such ever existed, cannot go back so far as 1454 (the oldest date of the Mayence printer), since the story of Coster, which came into vogue about 1560, expressly states that he was a grandfather when he made his first attempts. No works printed at Haarlem are known with a date either before or shortly after 1454, It is, however, certain that Haarlem was the first town in Holland at which printing was practised. Opposite the principal facade of the Groote Kerk rises the Town Hall (PL 11 ; B, 4), begun in the 12-13th cent., originally a palace of the counts of Holland, but remodelled in 1620 and 1630, when also the wing in the Zyl-Straat was added. The *Mu- seiim here is open daily 10-4, in winter 10-3 (adm. 25 c. ; on Sun. 12-3, gratis; catalogue in Dutch and French 30 c). It contains 298 Route 42. HAARLEM. Museum. a small but valuable picture-gallery, the only one where it is possible for the traveller to become thoroughly acquainted with the jovial Frans Hals, the greatest colourist of the Dutch painters next to Rembrandt. He is represented here by eight large pictures, painted at different stages of his career. The other pictures in the collection possess considerable historical interest. On entering the building from the market-place we ascend the staircase on the left , and reach a vestibule , the beams of which date from the 13th cent.; on the walls are some portraits and coats- of-arms of Counts and Countesses of Holland , and also a modern picture of the Defence of Haarlem (p. 296). We ring the bell in the right corner. Room I contains nothing of importance. — Room II. To the left, 236. A. Willaerts, Naval battle off Gibraltar in 1607; to the right, 225. H. C.Vroom, Same subject; 41. Corn. Comelissen, Cor- poration-banquet in 1599. Above, on the staircase, 174. H. G. Pot. Apotheosis of Prince William. — In the passage, to the right, 188. J. van Scorel, Adam and Eve; 74. F. P. de Grebber, Corporation- banquet in 1610 ; 79. Pieter de Grebber (^sonoi the \disi). Emp. Fred- erick Barbarossa granting the city of Haarlem its coat-of-arms in the presence of the Patriarch of Jerusalem (painted in 1630). PaiNciPAii Room. The whole of the left wall is occupied by the *^ Corporation and Regent Pieces of Frans Hals, arranged in chron- ological order. The first. No. 85, representing a Banquet of the officers of the 'St. Jorisdoele', or Arquebusiers of St. George, was painted in 1616, in his thirtieth year, and is distinguished by the depth and vigour of its colouring, in which it surpasses even his later works. No. 86, the same subject, with different portraits, and No. 87, the Banquet of the officers of the Arquebusiers of St. Andrew ('Cloveniers Doele') , were painted in 1627. His best period was probably about 1630, when he painted his finest work, No. 88, representing an Assembly of the officers of the Arque- busiers of St. Andrew, with fourteen life-size figures. Next in order of time are: 89, Officers and sergeants of the Arquebusiers of St. George, 1639 ; and 90, The governors of the Elizabeth Hospital, 1641, which savours strongly of Rembrandt's style. Then, after a long interval, which the biography of the master has not explained, at the age of 80, he painted Nos. 91, 92, The governors and lady- managers of the hospital for old men and women, both in 1664. — Among the other paintings in this room are: Jan de Bray, 26. Lady-managers of the Lepers' Hospital in 1667, 27. Christ blessing children; 191. Soutman, Corporation-piece of 1642; 75. F. P. de Grebber, Corporation-piece of 1619; 28. Jan de Bray, King Za- leucus sacrifices one of his eyes in order to ransom his son [1676) ; 192. P. C. Soutman, Corporation-piece of 1644; 212. Verspronck, Lady-managers of the Hospital of the Holy Ghost (1642) ; 38. Corn. Comelissen, Corporation-banquet of 1583 ; 30. Jan de Bray, Apo- Museum. HAARLEM. 42. Route. 299 theosis of Prince Frederick Henry (1681); 120. Corn. Holsteyn, Parable of tlie Labourers in the Vineyard (1647). Room IV. To the right, 104. Maerten van Heemskerck, St. Luke painting the Madonna ; 23, 24. Jan de Bray, Governors (1663) and lady-managers (1664) of the Orphanage; between these, 223. Vroom, Earl of Leicester landing at Flushing in 1586 (painted in 1623); 1. Pieter Piertersen, Shadrach, Meshech, and Abednego in the fiery furnace (1575); 109. Eeemskerck, Ecce Homo (1559); 84. Frans Hals, Portrait of himself; 226. Vroom, View of Haar- lem ; 34. A. Brouwer, Smokers ; 136. Pieter Lastman (teacher of Rembrandt), Nativity. 11. J. Berck-Heyde, Studio of Frans Hals: about twenty young painters are sitting round a table and drawing from nature, while Frans Hals stands near the door talking to Phil. Wouverman , who has paid him a visit. 32. Pieter Brueghel the Younger, Flemish proverbs ; 184. Saenredam, The Nieuwe Kerk at Haarlem; 9. J. Berck-Heyde, Interior of the Groote Kerk at Haar- lem ; 230. J. W. de Weth, Healing of the sick man at the Pool of Bethesda; 189. Jan Scorel, Baptism of Christ. This room also con- tains a number of specimens of old printing, particularly the 'Spiegel onzer behoudenis', on which the supporters of Coster (p. 297) specially grounded their claims. — In the passage are numerous silhouettes. Room V ('Fabricius Room'), containing a collection of family portraits and other paintings bequeathed to the town in 1883 by Baron J. C. W. Fabricius. To the right: 154. Mierevelt, Portrait; 214, 215. VersTpronck, Two portraits ; 218. Fictors (pupil of Rem- brandt), Portrait of a burgomaster of Amsterdam (1661); *93, *94. Frans Hals, Portraits of burgomaster Nik. van der Meer and his wife (1631); *197. A. van de Velde, Landscape; *6. G. Berck- Heyde, The town-hall of Haarlem (1671) ; 157. J. M. Molenaer, Rus- tic wedding; 131. Thomas de Keyser, Portrait (1629); 194. Ter- hurg. Family-group. The attendant also shows a silver-gilt goblet, presented to Arent Meindertsz Fabricius by the Estates of Holland and W. Friesland, in recognition of his services at the siege of Ostend in 1603; and a collection of Antiquities relating to Haarlem, weapons, glasses, and instruments of torture. The beautiful Ooblet of St. Martin, executed in 1604 for the guild of brewers, who paid 360 fl. for it, deserves special attention. The cover was modelled by Hendrik de Keyset, and the medallions by Ernst Janszoon van Vianen from designs by Hendr. Goltzius. The Town Library (entrance from the Prinsenhof, behind the town-hall ; adm. Wed. & Sat. , 2-4) contains a valuable collection of books and manuscripts relating to the history of the Netherlands. Near the Groote Markt to theN., Jans-Straat79, is the Episcopal Museum (PL 1 ; C, 4), a collection of Dutch ecclesiastical antiqui- ties (mainly from the bishopric of Haarlem), which is, however, 300 Route 42. HAARLEM. Teylers Museum. much inferior to that of Utrecht. Admission daily, except Sun., 10-5, 50 c. Teyler's Museum (PI. 12; C, 4; entrance, Spaarne 16) -R-as founded in consequence of a bequest of Pieter Teyler van der Hulst [d. 1778), a wealthy Haarlem merchant. The collections are open to visitors in summer from Mon. to Frid. (festivals excepted) from 11 to 3 (Thurs. in summer 11-4) and the library daily (Sun. and holidays excepted) from 1 to 4 o'clock (25 c). The old building in the Dam-Straat has been lately enlarged by a handsome wing in the Renaissance style, erected on the side next the Spaarne from the designs of Christian Ulrich of Vienna. The Museum includes a Physical Cabinet with collections of chemical, optical, electric, and other instruments; a Geological Cabinet, with minerals and fossils (including a plesiosaurus and several pterodactyli) ; a Col- lection of Pictures, consisting of about 100 modern pictures (by Eeck- hout, Schelfhout, Koekkoek, Van Hove, Schotel, Verveer, J. Koster, Ten Kate, Israels, Mesdag, etc. ; catalogue), exhibited in a room lighted from the roof; and a valuable Collection of Drawings and Sketches by old masters. On the upper floor is a large auditorium, in which scientific lectures are delivered, and the considerable Library. The foundation also provides for the publication of a scientific periodical (, Archives du Musee Teyler"), and a certain sum is annually set apart for the purchase of prizes to be competed for by scientific essayists. At the corner of the Dam-Straat is the old Weigh House, a sand- stone building of 1598, by Lieven de Key. — Opposite the Dam- straat, on the right bank of the Spaarne , a^e the headquarters of the Dutch Scientific Society (secretary, D.J. Bosscha). — The Spaarnewouder or Amsterdam Gate (PL D; 4), farther to the E., is the only survivor of the mediaeval town-gates ; it was restored on the side next the town in 1600. The curious tower (1613) of the Nieuwe or St. AnnaKerk (PL 6; A, 5) is also by Lieven de Key. The unattractive nave was built in 1649 by De Bray. Not far off is the reformed Orphanage for Girls, built by Lieven de Key in 1608 as an Oudemannenhuis, from funds supplied by festivals of the Rederykamern (p. 91); the dining-hall is interesting. — The modern Roman Catholic Church (PL 14 ; C, 5) also has a handsome tower. To the W. of the Leidsche Vaart (PL A, 4), a large new Roman Catholic Cathedral (St. Bavo) is now under construction. The S. side of the town is bounded by the Fkederiks Park (PL B, 7), with the new Stahlbad Haarlem, the powerful chaly- beate water of which is supplied by means of pipes from a spring in the Haarlemmer Polder. Near the pretty pump-room is an ortho- paedic institution. A band plays thrice weekly in the Kurgarten. — To the S.W. the Frederiks Park is adjoined by the attractive Flora Park (PL A, 7). Between these runs the Dreef, a tree- shaded drive, leading to the Haarlemmer Hout. In the neighbourhood Pavilion. HAARLEM. 42. Route. 301 are numerous villas. — To the S. of the Frederiks Park is situated the — Pavilion {Paviljoen Welgelegen ; PL A, B, 7), a chateau erected by the wealthy banker Mr. Hope of Amsterdam in the Italian style and afterwards purchased by Louis Napoleon, King of Holland. It is now the seat of the Society for the Promotion of Industry (Ned. Maatschappy ter Bevordering van Nyverheid) , founded in 1777, which has founded here a Colonial Museum (1871) and an Art- Industrial Museum [1877). The Art-Industrial Museum {Mmeum van Kunstnyverheid ; adm. daily. 10-4, 25 c.) consists of models, copies, and drawings of the most celebrated products of the artistic industries of ancient and modern times. It i? arranged in the following group Woven Fabrics, Wood-carvings, Works in metal. Ivory-carvings, Potterj Architecture, Sculpture, Drawing and Designing, Costume. The section of engravings and wood-cuts contains 4000 specimens. — In connection with the museum is a school of design, occupying the building next door to the Pavilion and is attended by over 200 students. Director, Hr. E. A. van Saher. The Colonial Museum (entered from the great avenue, second door to the left; adm. daily 10-4, 25 c.-, catalogue 25 c.) contains a copious collection of the products of the Dutch colonies, chiefly those in the E. Indies. The specimens are arranged in the following groups: Minerals, Food, Wood (large collection of tropical woods), Oils and Resins, Vegetable Fibres and Textiles, Drugs, Dying and Tanning Materials, Industrial and Artistic Pro- ducts, Ethnography. Director, Hr. F. W. van Eeden. The *Forest of Haarlem (Hout), a beautiful park to the S. of the Pavilion, about 3/^ M. long, was laid out in 1827. It contains fine old beech and lime tree avenues (e.g. the Spanjardslaan) and tasteful gardens. At the entrance is the Buiten-Societeit, a club. The Environs of Haarlem (see Map, p. 344) are much admired by the Dutch. The favourite points are the villages at the foot of the Dunes to the W. and N.W. of Haarlem, The following pleasant excursion may be made in about 3 hrs. there and back by the om- nibus mentioned on p. 295, or in about the same time by carriage (^one-horse carr. 4-5 fl.). "We follow the frequented road (comp. PI. A, 3) leading to the "W., crossing the Leyden railway and pass- ing numerous villas and gardens, to (1 M.) Overveen, where we join the road running along the E. slope of the dunes. The view from the top of the Dunes 3/^ M. to the S.W. of Overveen, made famous by Ruysdael's landscapes, is scarcely inferior to that from the Brederode'sche Berg (see below). The above-mentioned pictur- esque road now leads to the N., via the railway- station of Over- veen (on the line from Haarlem to Zandvoort, p. 302), passing the Bloemendaalsche Park with its pretty villas, and numerous private grounds and gardens, to the village of Bloemendaal (Hotel Oroot Zomerzorg , Vs ^1- to the W.; Hotel Welgelegen, Hotel Kemmer' land, both in the principal street j Omnibus via Overveen to Bloe- mendal, see p. 295). Beyond the church (about IV2 ^^' from Over- veen) the road forks : the right branch leads via the *H6tel Duinlast (R., L., & A. 21/2, D. at 5 p.m. 2V2 A-, with restaurant) to the (IV4M.) station of Sandpoort (p. 348); the left branch, passing 302 Route 42. ZANDVOORT. the grounds of the lunatic asylum of Meerenberg , leads to the picturesque red brick ruins of the chateau of Brederode, once the seat of the powerful counts of that name (reached also from the station of Sandpoort; p. 348). (Near the ruins is the Cafe-Restau- rant Velserend.') The extensive view to the E. embraces the ad- mirably cultivated and partly wooded plains of N. Holland, Haar- lem, the Haarlemmer and Wyker Meer, the Y, Amsterdam, the in- numerable windmills of Zaandam, the undulating and sterile sand- hills, and the sea. — A road leads from Velserend and Brederode to the station of Sandpoort (p. 348), whence we may return on foot or by rail to Haarlem via Duinlust and Bloemendaal. About 572 J^I- to the S.W. of Haarlem lies the sea-bathing place of Zandvoort, which is connected with the main line of the state-railway by a branch passing Overveen (p. 301; fares 60, 45, 30 c). The line affords an interesting survey of the Dunes. — Carriage from Haarlem to Zandvoort 4-5 fl. Zandvoort. — Hotels, 'Hotel d'Oeange, R., L., & A. from 2, B. 3/^, dej. IV2. D. 21/2, pens, from 6 fl. ; *H6tel Kuksaal, nearest the rail, stationi E., L., & A. 21/2-7 fl., B. 80 c, D. 21/2, pens, from 6V2 fl-; *H6tel Drie; HDizEN, somewhat farther back, hut with view of the sea, unpretending - "Gkoot Badhuis, R., L.. & A. from 3, pens, from 6 fl. These four on the Dunes, each with its own bathing equipments outside and in the house. — Hotel de L'OcfiAN, R., L., & A. 2V2, B. 1/2, I>. 21/2, pens. 41/2 A., good cuisine; *H6tel Belvedere, R., L., & A. 23/4, B. 1/2, dej. 1, D. 2, pens. 4 fl., with several furnished villas to let for the season (400-500 fl.): Hotel^Zeerust, pens. 41/2 fl.j Villa Maris, pens. 4-7 fl.; *Villa Pacla, pens. 5 fl. Numerous private lodgings. Bathing Coach, 25-50 c. 10 tickets 4 fl., including bathing-dress. The custom of promiscuous bathing has been introduced here as at Scheveningen, but there are also separate bathing-places for ladies and gentlemen. — Bathing season from 15th June to 1st October, During the height of the season (15th July to Ist Sept.) rooms should be secured beforehand. Horses, 1 fl. per hr. — Sailing-hoat, 1 fl. per hr. Zandvoort consists of the fishing-village of Oud-Zandvoort, situated behind the dunes, and of Nieuw-Zandvoort, a creation of the last ten years, with the railway- station. The bathing-places are chiefly near Oud-Zandvoort. Amsterdam is supplied with drink- ing-water from the neighbouring Vogelsang Dunes. — From Zand- voort a walk should be taken to the North Sea Canal (p. 345), about 6 M. off, returning by rail. •§JZ« ■u£Lv ;suY ■ ndieal o a * ^ ^ >. £ J • :>iorpiod3j}us ■• OS s a "pnoj-u gd (hnp^ootoQ GipvTmjptnfprtQm siTtiiuadch.i£Cf 303 43. Amsterdam. Railway Stations. 1. Central Station (PI. D, 2; '^Restaurant), for all ins, including those of the Rhenish Railway; 2. Wesper Poort Station (PI. G, 4, 5), for Utrecht, Gouda, the Hague, Rotterdam, Arnhem, Germany, and Belgium. — Fortery 25 c. — Cab, per V-j hr. 60 c, 1 hr. 80 c, each additional ^/thr. 20 c.; trunk 10 c, small luggage free; night charges, see p. 305. — Tramway to the Dam (p. 310), 10 c, comp. p. 305. Hotels. *Amstel Hotel (PI. a; F, 5), with railway booking-office, baths, telegraph, etc., in an open situation near the Hooge Sluis on the Buiten-Amstel, with 200 rooms; ■Bkack's Doelen Hotel (PI. b; E, 4), Doelen-Straat 24, near the Kloveniers-Burgwal, an old-established house with 100 rooms; *H6tel d'Europe (PI. e; E, 6), Doelen-Straat 2, between Binnen-Amstel and Rokin, rebuilt in 1896, with 75 rooms. These three are first-class hotels, with corresponding charges: R., L., & A. from 274, dej. IV4-IV2, !>• (usually at 6 p.m.) 21/2, omn. 1/2 A. — *Hotel Victoria v'Pl. 1; D, 2), at the corner of the Damrak and Prins Hendrik Kade, op- posite the Central Station; Pats-Bas (PI. d ; E, 4), Doelen-Straat 11. These two are also of the first class, M'ith 100-120 rooms; R., L., & A. from 21/2 fl- B. 70-75 c, D. 2-272, pens, from 472 fl. — The following are more commercial: *Bible Hotel (PI. e; D, 3), Damrak 118, rear facing the Warmoes-Straat, *Krasnapolskt , Warmoes-Straat (PI. D, 3), with 100 rooms and large cafe-restaurant (see below), R., L., & A. from 2, B. 72, D. 272 fl. ; "Hotel Amsterdam (formerly Adrian; PI. k ; D, 3). Kalver-Straat 33, with lift; Oldewelt (PI. q; D, 2), Nieuwendyk 100, R., L., A., & B. 274, dej. 1, D. incl. wine 21/2 fl. ; Stad Elberfeld (PI. p; D, E, 3), Achterburgwal HI; Hotel-Caf^ Suisse (PI. g; D, 3), Hotel Polen (PI. m; D, 3), De Oude Graaf (PI. 1; D, 3), and several others in the Kalver-Straat, with large cafes-restaurants, R., L., & A. usually 2-2^/4 fl. ; t'Haasje (PI. 0; D, 3), Damrak, at the corner of the Papenbrugsteeg, R., L., A., & B. from I3/4 fl.; Mille Colonnes, Rembrandt-Plein (PI. E, 4), Monopole, Heiligenweg, a side-street of the Kalver-Straat, two hotel-cafes belonging to the same proprietor, R., L., A., & B. IV2, dej. 1, D. IV'i. pens. ^372-4 fl.; Hotel & Caf6 Rembrandt (PI. E, 4), Rembrandt-Plein (PI. E, 4), R., L., A., & B. 13/4 fl. ; AMftKiCAiN (PI. s; D, 5), Leidsche Plein, not far from the Vondel Park and the museums, R., L., & A. 1^/4, B. 72} dej. 174, D. 13/4, pens. 5 fl. ; Hotel Hollandais (PI. t; D, 5), Leidsche Plein. — Hotel du Rhin, Warmoes-Straat 87, R. , L., A., & B. I72 fl.; Hotel-Restaurant Royal, Damrak 95; Van Gelder, Damrak 34, near the station, R., L., & B. 1 fl. 60 c; the three last unpretending. Pensions. Bellevue, in an open situation near the Hooge Sluis, 6-6 fl. ; Oud Leyerhoven^ at the corner of the Tessels-Kade and the Vondel-Straat. Restaurants. -Restaurant Riche, Rokin 84, near the Dam; 'VanLaar, Kalver-Straat 3, also near the Dam (handsome rooms); *De V Europe^ in the Hotel de TEurope (see above); three-first class caf^s with prices to cor- respond. — Also at most of the hotels, e.g. at the Krasnapolsky, in the War- moes-Straat, with summer and winter gardens, and the hotels in Kalver- Straat; at the cafe's mentioned below (plat du jour, from 11-12, 40-50 c, D. from 5-7 p.m., l-172fl.; often crowded about 6 p.m.); in the Zoological Garden (p. 310), after midday (D. from 4-7 p.m., 2fl.); at the Ryks- Museum (in summer only), p. 317. Wine Rooms : Ferwerda & Tieman, Heerengracht 8S, Kalver-Straat 28, 159, etc.: Aux Caves de France, Kalver-Straat 53; Continental Bodega, same street 234. — Oysters, fish, etc. : '- Van Laar, Kalver-Straat 3 (oysters 80 c. to 1 fl. 20 c. per dozen); De Hoek, Kalver-Straat 75; etc. Cafes and Beer Rooms. Krasnapolsky., Warmoes-Straat (PI. D, 3), one of the largest cafes in Europe, with a garden and numerous billiard tables ; Brinkmann, Be Oude Graaf, *Poolsc/ie, ''Suisse, Kalver-Straat Nos. 2, 12, 16, and 22; Vienna Cafi., Rokin 22; Mille Colonnes, Rembrandt , both in the Rembrandt-Plein; Continental, Tulp-Plein, with garden, opposite the Amstel Hotel (PI. F, 4, 5); AmMcain, Hollandais, Leidsche Plein (see above); Caf^- 304 Route 43. AMSTERDAM. Shops. Restaurant Parkzicht, at tlie comer of the Stadhoader-Kade and Hobbema- Straat, at the entrance to the Vondel Park; 'Paviljoen., in the Vondel Park (p. 342). The following are more particularly beer-rooms : Miiller. Dam 11, Warmoes-Straat 194; Buhrdovf., Warmoes-Straat 193; Pschorr ^ Warmoes- Straat ITS (waitresses). — Liqueurs (Curacao, "Half-om-half ', 'Maagbitter", etc). Wj/nand-Fockink, a firm founded in 1679, the retail business carried on in curious old premises in thePylsteeg (entrance by Xo. 19 Dam-Straat; PI. D, 3); Erven Lucas Bols, foundedin 1575. Kalver-Straat 32; both much frequented during the business-hours of the Exchange; De Drie Fleschj'es, Graven-Straat 16. — A specialty of Amsterdam are the Dairies (Kalver- Straat, etc.), in which milk, eggs, etc. are obtained. Baths. Swimming Baths in the Y, at Van Heemstede-Obelt, De Ruyter Kade 150, and at the W. Dock (PI. E, 1) ; also in the Amstel, near the Schollebrug, to which a small steamer plies. Warm Baths. Dr. Arntze- nius, Amsteldyk 25 (PL F, G, 5); Van Heemstede-Obelt, see above; in theRokin (PI.'D, 3. 4); on the Heerengracht CNo. 158), near the Leliegracht (PL C, 3); at the hotels, etc. Shops. The best are in the Kalver-Straat, Dam-Straat, Paleis-Straat, on the Nieuwendyk, in the Leidsche Straat, Leidsche Plein, Gallery (p. 815), and Utrechtsche Straat. — Photogkaphs : fferz, Heerengracht 80; ff. Groote, Kalver-Straat 43. — Photogeaphebs : Wegner d; Motta. Rokin 138. — Book- sellers: Siilpke, Kalver-Straat 176; Seyffardi^D&inT&'k 99, by the Exchange; Miiller, Singel 286; Van Gogh. Keizersgracht 453; Hoveker. Kalver-Straat 154; Schelteyna d- ffolkema, Eokin 74; etc. — Aut Deaj.eb.s : Fram Buffa apt. Franck, an excellent picture In the painter's early manner; — 1380. Jan Steen, Drinkers; 508. Hob- bema, Landscape; 973. J. M. Molenaer, Grace before meat; *910. G. Metsu, The sportsman's booty, a room with a lady in a red velvet dress and a gentleman just returned from the chase; *507. M.Hob- bema, The water-mill, similar to the celebrated picture in the Hert- ford Gallery in London ; 1536. J. Vermeer van Delft, Woman reading a letter (damaged); 685. P. de Hooch, Interior; 281. G.Dou, The fisherman's wife. *1252. Rembrandt, The so-called 'Jewish Bride' ; an old man approaches a young and richly-adorned woman as if about to embrace her; the male figure and the background are un- finished (painted after 1660); P. de Hooch , 683. Interior, *686. The country house ; 1232. J. van Ruysdael, Landscape with water- fall; *1377. Jan Steen, Sick girl and physician ; one of Steen's most charming and perfect works, recalling the characters of Moliere, beautifully drawn and boldly painted. *1376. Jan Steen, Merry household ('soo d'oude songen, soo pypen de jonge'; 1668); *974. J. Molenaer, Lady playing the spinet. *1379. Jan Steen, Drunken roisterers, a coarse but clever re- presentation of a carousal, which is not without Its moral. While the gentleman and lady are sacrificing to Bacchus and Veniia. the musicians slip contemptuously out of the room and a woman steals a cloak. Over the head of the drunken old man is seen the picture of an owl with candles and spectacles, with the minute inscription: — 'Wat baeten kaers of Bril. ,Als den TJil niet sien wil?' (Of what use are candles or spectacles, when the owl will not see?). 192. Brekelenkam, Mother and child; 956. W. van Mieris, Lady and gentleman; 1075. A. van Ostade, Peasants; 325. G. van den Eeckhout, Huntsman resting; 1016. A. van der Neer, Winter-scene with skaters; 21. J. Asselyn, Italian scene; 126. H. Bloemaert, The egg-woman. — 1224,2?M6ens,Portraitof Queen Anna Maria of France, wife of Louis XIII. ; 1409. Teniers the Younger, In the country ; *14o4. Adrian van Utrecht, Still-life; 812. J. A. Kruseman, Portrait of Adr. van der Hoop , founder of the collection; 1408. Teniers the Younger, Village-fair; 1432. Garofalo, Madonna and saints. — 1315, 1314. Schotel, Sea-pieces ; 1610. J. Weenix, Dead game and Baedeker's Belgium and Holland, 12th Edit. 22 338 Route 43. AMSTERDAM. Ryks Museum. fruit ; 692. S. van Hoogstraten^ The sick woman ; 1076. A. van Ostade, Confidential conversation ; 1655. Phil. Wouverman, Horse- pond; 144. F. Bol, A naval hero. *1487. A. van de Velde, Landscape, the painter with his wife and children in the foreground, and a waggon, shepherd, and flock in the background, in beautiful evening-light, probably the master's finest work (1667). 668. M. d'Hondecoeter, Poultry ; below, *282. G. Don, Hermit, a master-piece of miniature painting ; we can almost count the hairs and wrinkles of the hermit in this little picture, only 1 ft. high. 1027. C. Netscher, Queen Mary of England, wife of William III.; 1518. W. van de Velde, Beach; 988. F. de Moucheron, Italian scene; *892. N. Maes, Old woman spinning; 1656. Ph. Wouverman^ Camp; 1378. J. Steen, Family scene; 104. G. Berck-Heyde, View in Amsterdam. — In the passage are a statue of Perseus, in marble, by Ferd. Leenhoff, and, to the right, an Interior (18th cent.) by Leys (No. 834). We then enter — Room No. 263, with the continuation of the Van der Hoop col- lection. To the left : 495. Jan van der Heyde, View of Amersfoort (figures by A. van de Velde); 254. A. Cuyp, Portrait; 1657. Ph. Wouverman^ Landscape ; 1234. J. van Ruysdael, Norwegian land- scape; 1169. A. van den Tempel, Hugo Grotius. as a young man; *1235. J.vanRuysdael, Landscape with mill; 255. A. Cuyp, Cattle. — 1489. A. van de Velde, Cattle; 95. N.Berchem, Italian scene; *447. Frans Hals, Half-length of a seated woman (1639); 480. B. van der Heist, Portrait; 1515. W. vande Velde the Younger, The cannon- shot (sea-piece). — 1078. J. van Ostade, Rustic inn; 1517. W. van de Velde, Rough sea ; 163. J. A. Both, Artists studying nature (large landscape with waterfall); 1516. W. van de Velde the Younger, Calm sea. — 1667, 1668. J. Wynants, Landscapes; 351. A.vanEver- dingen, Norwegian landscape; 684. P. de Hooch, Interior. — Above are regent-pieces: 141. F. Bol, Seven overseers of the Huiszitten- huis (1657); 891. N. Maes, Presidents of the Surgeons' Guild at Amsterdam (1680-81); 1587, 1588. Corn, van der Voort, Regents of the almshouse and the Avorkhouse; no number, Jurian Ovens, Regents of the Huiszittenhuis. — We next enter the — Booms of the Modem Masters. — Room No. 262 contains por- traits and groups, chiefly of artists and scholars of the end of the 18th and beginning of the 19th century. Room No. 261. Entrance - wall : J. Weissenbruch , Landscape; P. J. Gabriel, Dutch scene; 1328. Therese Schwartze, Three orphan- girls ; Ch. Verlat, Woodman attacked by a bear. — 1028. Alb. Neuhuys, The fisherman's wooing; P. J. Gabriel, Landscape; 895a. J. Maris, River-scene in mist; above, 906. H. W. Mesdag, Beach in winter (1874); 1416. F. P. Termeulen, Exporting timber; 129. Blommers, Knitter in the Dunes; Jos. Israels, Portrait of H. Veltman. — 1204. Roelofs, Landscape near the Hague; *710. Jos. Israels, 'Alone in the world'; 51. J. van de Sande-Bakhuyzen, Scene in the province Ryka Museum. AMSTERDAM. 43. Route. 339 of Drente. — 13. L. Apol, A January day; 772. Klinkenberg, Market in Nymegen; 427. De Haas, Cattle. Room No. 260. Entrance-wall : 517. C. H. Hodges^ Louis Napo- leon, King of Holland; to the right. 417. W. Gruyter, Roads at Bremerhaven ; 1648. J. L. Verveer, View of a town ; to the left, L. de Burbure, Celebration ofthe three hundredth anniversary of the capture ofBriel(p. 253). —Then, ontherigkt wall : 1218. G. A. Roth, Bent- heim Forest; above, 18, A, Asselbergs, Sunrise; 1098. J. W.Piene- man, The actress Johanna Cornelia Ziesenis as Agrippina; 1031. P. J. Noel, Street-scene; 1056. J. J. van Os, Dutch landscape ; 1527. E. J. Verboechhoven, At pasture. — 783. J. Kobell, Cattle; 1254. Phil. Sadie, Gleaners; D. A. C. Artz, Seamstresses; 503. E. A. Hil- verdlnk, View in Amsterdam. — D. F. Jamin, Prayer; 1271. Raden Saleh (a Javanese prince ; d. 1880), Buffalo attacked by lions. Large Room (No. 255). To the right, Ad. Mouilleron, Still-life. Then, on the right wall : 1612. J. Weissenbruch, Town-gate at Leer- dam; 1358. C. Springer, Town-hall and market at Veere ; 1519. P. van der Velden, Domino-players; 1100. J. W. Pleneman, Battle of Waterloo (26 ft. long and 18 ft. high); 780. Henrietta Ronner-Knip, Three to one; 746. H. F. ten Kate, Guard-room; B. C. Koekkoek, Landscape ; 155. J. Bosboom, The Church of Our Lady at Breda ; 1438. H. A. van Trigt, Divine service in Norway; 917. L. Meyer, Storm in the English Channel; 804. C. Kruseman, Philip II. of Spain leaving the Netherlands, Aug., 1559; 800. A. H. Bakker Korff, Under the palm-trees; 1389. P. Stortenbeker, Morning, — 1551. F. Vervloet, St. Peter's at Rome; 1299, A. Schelfhout, Dutch winter-scene ; 1310. H.J.Scholten, Sunday morning; 504. J, Hilverdink, English coast; 421. A. J. Haanen , Fruits; 122. D.Bles, Noisy children; 15. D.A. C.Artz, Visit to the grandmother; 1549. S. L. Verveer, Noord- wyk aan Zee; 1576. J. G. Vogel, Moor in N. Brabant; 1529. E.J. Verboeckhoven, Hungry wolves; 422. A. J. Haanen, Flowers; 226. H. G. ten Gate, Scene in Amsterdam; 193. F. A. Breuhaus, Coast near St. Nazaire; 154. J. W. van Borselen, Dutch landscape; 1575. C. J. de Vogel, Autumn in the Haagsche Boscb, Room No. 248. Dutch Regent Room (17th cent.), with a ceiling from the old Lepers' Hospital at Amsterdam, by G. de Lairesse. On the walls are regent-pieces ; the furniture is of the 17th century. The chimney-piece is adorned with a carved frieze. At the en- trance-wall, two marble medallions of the Burgomaster Corn, de Graeff and his wife, by A. Quellinus; at the opposite wall, the marble busts of Burgomaster Andr. de Graeff, by A. Quellinus, (1661); and of Johannes Munter, by P. Eggers (1673). — The adjoining Cabinet (No. 249) is upholstered in gilt leather and contains a number of small curiosities, some paintings, and a cupboard with Dutch drinking-vessels of the 17th and 18th centuries. We now return through the Rembrandt Room and the Hall of Honour (p. 327) to the staircase. • 22* 340 Route 43. AMSTERDAM. Municipal Museum. The S. facade of the museum deserves a glance as we leave the latter. The garden is laid out in the style of a guild-house (Doel) court in the 17th cent., and contains reproductions of old Dutch buildings that have been demolished. c. The Municipal Museum and the Yondel Park. The Paulus Potter Straat leads to the S.E, from the Ryks Museum to the — *Municipal Museum (PL D, 6), a building in the Dutch style, erected in 1892-95 by A. W. Weissman, at the cost of Madame Lopez Suasso (nee De Bruyn). The three halls on the groundfloor contain uniforms, weapons, and pictures of the 'Schuttery' of Am- sterdam, chiefly of the 19th cent. ; on the first floor is a choice col- lection of about200 paintings chiefly by modern Dutch artists, some of whom can be studied to advantage only here. The collection has been formed by a society founded in 1875. Admission, see p. 306 ; illustrated catalogue, 1 fl. We ascend the staircase to an upper hall, adorned with busts of eminent artists, turn to the left, and then traverse the anteroom to the right to — EooM I (No. 42; the numbers over the doors refer in each case to the following rooms). To the right of the entrance : 6. L. Apol, River-scene in winter; 77. H. J. Eaverman, Flight; 51a. Jan van Essen^ Marabou; 136. Phil. Sadee, Return from the fish-auction. To the left of the entrance : 12. J. W. Bilders, Landscape with cattle ; E. Witkamp^ In the fields; 156. H. Valkenburg, Proposal of marriage; *110. H. W. Mesdag, Calm sea by sunset; 155. H. A. van Trigt, Norwegian women bringing their children to be christened; 148. Ther. Schwartze, 'He's coming' (Frisian woman); 13. J. W. Bilders, Landscape. — 7. J. vande Sande-Bakhuyzen, Landscape; 116. W. K. Nakken, Rest (Norman farm-horses in winter). — The other wall is completely occupied by : 45. A. J. Derkinderen, Procession of the Miracle of Amsterdam. — We now enter — Room II (No. 41). 26. J. Boshoom, Groote Kerk at the Hague; 108. A. Mauve, Sheep on the Dunes; 89. Jos. Israels, Rustic interior; 109. A. Mauve, Woodmen; 117a. A. Neuhuys, The dolls' dressmaker; 28a. G. H. Breitner, Canal in Amsterdam; 117. A. Neuhuys, By the cradle; 103. Jac. Maris, Two windmills; 10. J. W. Bilders, Land- scape. — 20. B. J. Blommers, The little fishermen; 106. Will. Maris, Cattle; *85. Jos. Israels, Old Jewish peddlar ('een zoon van het oude volk'); 107. W. Maris, Cattle; *111. H. W. Mesdag, Beach (1895); 36. F. J. du Chattel, Dutch town-canal ; 16. Chr. Bisschop, 'The Lord giveth and the Lord taketh away'; 113. W. Roelofs, Marshy landscape ; 15. Chr. Bisschop, 'Winter in Friesland' (repairing skates) ; 75. J. H. L. de Haas, Cattle. Room III (No. 40; foreign artists). To the left: 33. Al. Calame, The Oeschinen-See near Kandersteg ; 52. E Fichel, The Encyclo- Municipal Museum. AMSTERDAM. 43. Route. 341 pedists (Diderot, etc.) in the royal library. — 57. L. Gallait, For- saken ; 37. Benj. Constant, The Empress Theodora, wife of Justinian ; 144. A. Schreyer, Bosnian waggon; 28b. Em. Breton, Christmas night; 48, Fr. Diday, Valley of Lauterbrunnen ; 70. Th. Gudin, Mediterranean coast in mist. — 9. Jan van Beers, Burial of Charles the Good, Count of Flanders. — 31. Al. Calame, Lake of Lucerne; 28. F. de Braekeleer, Birth-chamber; 76. F. Haseleer, Magistrates' room of the old 'Franc de Bruges' (p. 26); 34. Al. Calame, Waterfall in Switzerland (not the Handeck Fall); 35. Jar. Cermak, Monte- negrin refugees; 32. Al. Catame, Evening; 99. H. Leys, King of the marksmen; 64. C. Girardet, Horse-pond; 102. J. B. Maes, Madonna; 71. Th. Gudin, Sunset, a storm approaching; 158. H. Vemet, Jere- miah among the ruins of Jerusalem ; 53. Robert-Fleury. Titian before his last painting. — In the other corner is the entrance to — Room IV (No. 43). To the left: 73 and (farther on) 74, 72. A. Haanen, Flowers and fruit; 101. L. Lingeman, The armourer; 93. Kiinkeriberg, Episode from the siege of Leyden; H. A. van Trigt, Guard turning out. — C. Springer^ 153. Heeren-Gracht at Amster- dam, 154. View in Enkhuizen; 114. L. Meyer, Storm on the French coast. — 4. A. Allebe, Church-goers surprised; 23. J. Bosboom, Oude Kerk at Amsterdam; 149. C. Springer, Town-hall at Cologne; 162. J. L. Verveer, Scheveningen in rainy weather ; 11. J. W. Bilders, Landscape; 22. J. Bosboom, Barn-floor in Guelderland; 150. C. Springer, The 'Schbne Brunnen' at Nuremberg; 21. J. Bosboom, Groote Kerk at Edam ; 79. J. Hilverdink. Harbour at Ymuiden. — 66. J. a Greive, View from the Hooge Sluis fp. 316) in 1876; *86. Jos. Israels, Passing the mother's grave (1856) ; 78. J. E. van Heems- kerck, The Y at Amsterdam; 65. J. C. Greive, The Y at Amsterdam, from the Schreyerstoren. — Opposite is — Room V (No. 44). To the left: 115. L. Meyer, Rough sea; 119. G. J. J. van Os , Flowers; 166. A. Waldorp , View of Dort. — 68. P. F. Greive, Dutch maid-servant; 83. J. Israels, Margaret of Parma and William of Orange (painted at Paris in 1855); 51. Tetar van Elven, Carnival outside the Grand Opera at Paris. — 120. Van Os, Fruit. — 114a. L. Meyer, Rescue from a wreck on the Spanish coast; 121. Van Os, Birds and fruit; 95. B. C. Koekkoek, Gust ol wind. — 140. Ary Scheffer, Mary Magdalen at the foot of the Cross ; 159. Verschuur, Horse-fair; 167. A. Waldorp, Sea-piece; 141. Ary Scheffer, 'Blessed are the pure in heart' ; 46. W. A. van Deventer, Sea- piece at sunset. — 74. A. Haanen, Fruit; 49. P. L. Dubourq, Lake of Como. — We now reach a series of cabinets. Cabinet I (No. 45). 40. J. B. C. Corot, Bridge of Valuel. — 43. A. G. Decamps, Turkish executioners ; 54. E. Fromentin, Hawk- ing; 145. A. Schrodter, Don Quixote reading romances. — 157. M. C. Verlat, Lurking fox ; 39. J. B. Corot, Landscape; 44. P. Delaroche, Finding of Moses. Cabinet II (No. 46). 20a. B.J. Blommers, Mother and Child; 342 Route 43. AMSTERDAM. Vondel Park. J. Veth, Portrait of Israels, the painter. — 169. J. W€isserJ)ruch, View in a town; *87. J. Israels, Fisherman's children (1863); 111. H. W. Mesdag, Beach. — 94. KUnkenberg, Town-hall at the Hague; 88. J. Israels, Fisherman's children (1872); 109a. A. Mauve, Fold. — In the middle, a statuette of J. Israels, hy F. Leenhoff. Cabinet III (No. 47). 5. S. Altmann, Potter the painter in his studio; 127. Ch. Rochussen, Melis Stoke presenting his rhymed chronicle to Count Floris V. of Holland; 84. J. Israels, Study of a head; 104. J. Maris, The ferryman; 128. Ch. Rochussen, Battle at Castricum (p. 350). — 2. Allehe, Interior atDongen ; 24. J. Bosboom, TeDeum laudamus; 126. Ch. Rockvssen, Arrivalof the Water-Gueux at Leyden. — 18. t>. Bles, Checkmate ('Victorious Holland'). Cabinet IV (No. 48). Drawings and sketches by Rochussen, Tholen, Bosboom, etc. From the Municipal Museum the Van Baerle Straat leads to the W. to the Vondel Park (PI. D, C, 6), the principal entrance to which is from the Stadhouders-Kade, to the W. of the Ryks Museum. Near the end of the Van Baerle Straat, in the Vossius Straat, which bounds the park on the E., rises the new building of the Blind Asylum (see below). On the opposite (W.) side of the park is the Paviljoen Cafe- Restaurant. To the S. of the pond midway rises a statue, erected in 1867, of Joost van den Vondel, the most distinguished of Dutch poets (d. 1679). He was born at Cologne in 1587, and afterwards went to Holland with his parents, who were Mennonites, His principal works are tragedies with choruses, one of which, 'Gysbrecht van Amstel' founded on the tradition of the destruction of the city of Amsterdam in 1296, is still annually performed. — To the W. rises the lofty tower of the Church of the Sacred Heart. — Farther on in the park is the Melkhuis, a small farm where fresh milk is sold. — To the S.W. of the Vondel Park the Willems-Park was recently laid out; in the neighbourhood is the terminus of the tramway-line from the Dam (p. 305). c. Charitable Institutions. Amsterdam is celebrated for its Charitable Institutions, up- wards of a hundred in number, destined for the reception of sick, aged, and indigent persons, lunatics, foundlings, widows, etc., and all almost entirely supported by voluntary contributions. The Blind Asylum (PI. D, 6; see above), founded in 1808 and removed to the building beside the Vondel Park in 1884, is one of the most admirable institutions of the kind. It now contains about 50 pupils between the ages of five and eighteen, who receive in- struction in reading, writing, arithmetic, geography, handicrafts, languages, and music. On Wednesdays from 10 to 12 the public are admitted while lessons are going on. Visitors are expected to buy some of the articles manufactured by the inmates, or to put a Charities. AMSTERDAM. 43. Route. 343 contribution into the collecting box. — For blind persons of a more advanced age there is a special asylum on the Stadhouders-Kade, which has about 80 inmates. The poor-houses are handsome buildings, with excellent or- ganisation ; as for example, the Protestant Asylum for the aged of both sexes (PL 46 ; F, 4), on the Biunen-Amstel, and the Hospice of St. James, mentioned at p. 316. Many of the orphans educated at the different Orphanages wear picturesque costumes, which are seen to the best advantage on Sun- days, especially in the Kalver-Straat. The children of the Municipal Orphanage (p. 312) wear costumes in which the black and red city colours appear; the girls of the Roman Catholic Orphanage have black dresses with white collars and white headdresses ; and those of the Protestant Orphanages wear brown or blue with black. The Dia- conie Orphanage (PI. 5; E, 4), built in 1889 on the Amstel, accom- modates 1000-1200 children. — The Walloon Orphanage, at the corner of the Prinsegracht and Vyzelgracht (PI. E, 5), deserves a visit on account of the regent-pieces by B. van der Heist, W. Vail- lant, A. de Vries, and A. van den Tempel. The Maatschappy tot Nut van't Algemeen (PI. 45; E, 3), or Society for the Public Welfare, is a very important body, whose sphere of operations extends over the whole kingdom of Holland. It was founded at Edam in 1784 by Jan Nieuwenhuyzen, a Baptist preacher, but transferred to Amsterdam in 1787. Its object is the promotion of the education and moral culture of the lower classes. Members subscribe 6^4 fl. annually, and eight or more subscribers residing in a provincial town or district constitute a sub-committee, whose sphere of action is called a department. There are at present 330 such departments, comprising about 17,500 members. The principal board of control is at Amsterdam, where the general meeting of the society takes place annually. The society endeavours to attain its ob- jects (1) by promoting the education of the young, even after they have left school, training teachers, publishing school-books and edu- cational literature, founding libraries, Sunday-schools, etc.; (2) by promoting the enlightenment and culture of adults,publishing popular and instructive literature, instituting public lectures, founding read- ing-rooms, savings-banks for widows, orphans, etc. ; (3) by bestow- ing rewards and honours on persons who have distinguished themselves by acts of humanity or generosity. Religion. The complete religious toleration which has long pre- vailed in Holland has led to the formation of numerous different Sects, an enumeration of whose churches will afford the best idea of their respective numbers. The oldest and most interesting churches are the Reformed, 11 in number, embellished with the tombs of celebrated Dutchmen. The following are also Protestant places of worship : 2 Walloon, 1 English Episcopalian, 1 English Presbyterian, 1 'Remonstrant' (a sect without definite creed, but which regards the Bible as its sole guide; see p. 385), 2 Evangelic Lutheran (a sect which professes to adhere to the spirit rather than to the letter of the Augsburg Confession), 1 'Re- established Lutheran' (differing slightly from the 'Reformed' church), 344 Route 43. ZAANDAM. Environs 1 Baptist, 3 Reformed Cliristian, and 2 others (ultra-orthodox), who left the synod some years ago. Then 20 Eoman Catholic, including 2 Jansenist (p. 374). There is also a Biguinage (p. 312) here in the style of those at Ghent and Bruges (see pp. 48. 22), which has been in existence since the 14th cent, (in the vicinity of the Kalver-Straat, near No. 18 of our plan). Finally the 10 Jewish synagogues (p. 316), the meeting-house of the Free Brethren, built in 1880, and the meeting-rooms of the Salvation Army, which has recently developed a characterigtcally active zeal in Holland. Excursions in the Environs of Amsterdam. The neighbourhood of the Dutch capital has little to offer in the shape of picturesque scenery ; but most travellers will jand much to interest them in the extensive system of canals and sluices that has been constructed since the beginning of the present century to afford to vessels of heavy burden the access denied them by the silting up of the Zuidersee. Of no less interest is the other system of sluices intended for purposes of defence and en- abling the Dutch to place the entire district under water in case of war. Amsterdam forms the centre of the national system of de- fence, and plays in Holland the same part that Antwerp does in Belgium (comp. p. 142). On a tongue of land projecting into the Y, opposite the new Cen- tral Station (steam-ferry, seep. 305), stands the old Tolhuis, or custom-house, where there is a favourite Tea Garden (military band on Sun. & Thurs. evening in summer) and an excellent view of the Y (concerts, see p. 304). Here are the vast gates, called the Willems- Sluis, at the mouth of the Noord-Hollandsche Kanaal vphich was constructed in 1819-25 by Blanken, at a cost of about 8 million florins. The canal is 130 ft. broad and over 16 ft. deep, and its level at Buiksloot (I74 M. to the N. of the Tolhuis) is 10 ft. below the average level of the sea at half-tide. It extends across the entire province of North Holland from Amsterdam to the Helder, a dis- tance of 46 M. (p. 349). Another excursion may be made to Zaandam, either by railway (p. 351 ; best quitted at the station in the town) or by the steamer which sails from the Westerhoofd on the De Rnyter-Kade (PL C, 2) sixteen times daily, and makes the journey in 3/4 hr. (return-fare, 30 c. or 20 c. ; tickets on board). Zaandam i^Hdtel de Zon, R., L., & A. 1 fl. 60 c., B. 60 c, dej. 1 fi. ; Het Wapen van Amsterdam; * Cafe-Restaurant Suisse, at the harbour, weU spoken of), sometimes erroneously called Saardam, a town with 16,000 inhab., situated at the influx of the Zaan into the Y, is a thriving place, thoroughly Dutch in appearance. The small houses, which are almost all of one or two stories only, are built of wood or brick painted green or red, and surrounded by gardens. Along the bank of the Zaan as far as the villages of Zaandyk, Koog, Wormerveer, and Krommenie (see p. 348), extend about four hundred windmills. They are used for many different purposes, and comprise oil, saw, corn, paint, cement, and paper- of Amsterdam. NOORDZEE KANAAL. 43. Route. 345 mills (comp. p. xxviii). The Zaanland is almost literally a forest of wind-mills. A pleasant drive (carr. a.t Ho off s, Westzyde 133; 14 tl.) may be taken to Broek and Buiksloot (p. 346). The Hut of Peter the Great is the principal curiosity at Zaandam (guide, unnecessary, 10 c. \ visitors arriving by steamer must cross to the W. bank). We follow the road running towards the S. along (he harbour, past the Societeit (left), to the small Caf4 de Hoop (right), where we descend a few steps into a narrow street ; we then cross a bridge, and 125 paces farther on reach a court-yard (on the right) in which the hut (25 c.) is situated. It is a rude wooden structure, now protected by a roof supported by pillars of brick. It was occupied by the Czar Peter for a week in 1697, while he worked as a ship-carpenter in the building yard of Mynheer Kalf. The tradition is that he arrived here in the dress of a common workman, under the name of Peter Michaelof., but being incessantly beset by crowds of inquisitive idlers, who penetrated his disguise, he was forced to return to Amsterdam. — The hut now belongs to the Czar of Russia. Near the hut is the stopping-place of the railway mentioned at p. 347. — To reach the (i/o M.) station from the harhoiir we proceed towards the W. in the direction of the Zaan^ taking the third street on the left, which is planted with two rows of young trees. In order to form a direct communication between Amsterdam and the sea, the shallow basin of the Y was drained in 1865-76 and its waters confined to a central canal, which here intersects the narrowest part of the peninsula of North Holland, called Holland op zyn smalst. The new Noordzee Eanaal is about 15 M. in length, 65-110 yds. in width, and about 30 ft. in depth. Its level is about 20 inches below the mean level of the water at Amsterdam. The whole outlay, including the cost of the protecting dyke at the E. end, near the village of Schellingwoude (see below), amounted to 40,000,000 fl., of which 6-7,000,000 fl. were contributed by the city of Amsterdam and upwards of 10,000,000 fl. defrayed by the sale of reclaimed land (at an average price of 1200 fl. per acre), while the remainder is borne by government. — The W. entrance is shel- tered by two massive breakwaters, 3/^ M. in length. Two large locks, respectively ^/^ M. and II/4 M. from the W. end, protect the canal at high water. The older of these is on the main canal and has three openings (130 yds. long, 20 yds. broad, 25 ft. deep ; 76 yds. long, 13 yds. broad, 16ft. deep; 76 yds. long, 11yds. broad, 16 ft. deep). The other, completed in 1895, on a short branch of the canal to the N., is still larger and has a single open- ing, 245 yds. long, 27 yds. broad, and 33 ft. deep. Beside the older lock lies Ymuiden (Hotel Nommer Een; Hotel Willem Barendsz)^ with 2000 inhab., a place which has sprung into existence since the formation of the canal. It is connected with (21/2 M.) Velzen (p. 348) by a short branch-line. — From Ymuiden to Wyk aan Zee, see p. 348. Steamboats ('Dolphyn', 'Stad Purmerend') ply 2-4 times daily from Amsterdam to Ymuiden (Sat. twice only), starting from the De Ruyter-Kade (PI. D, 2) and making the trip in 1^/4 hr. (fares 60, 40 c. ; there "and back 1 fl.,60c.). Intermediate stations : Westzaan, Buitenlmizen (Assendel/t), Velzen. In order to protect the North Sea Canal from the Zuiderzee, a 346 Route 43. MUIDEN. huge dam, II/4 M. in length, has been constructed across the E. mouth of the Y at Schellingwoude. The middle of this embankment is "broken by the Oranjesluizen, with five openings for the passage of vessels and for regulating the amount of water in the canal. The largest of them is 105 yds. in length, 19 yds. in width, and 14^2 ft. deep. The two heaviest of the lock-gates, 22 of which are constructed of iron and 34 of wood, weigh 34 tons each. — From the Muiderpoort (PI. G, H, 3 ; turning to the left 3 min. beyond the gate) we reach in 40 min. the S. extremity of the Dam, which leads us in V2 ^^- to the locks. Steamboat from Amsterdam to Schellingwoude, seep. 305. — From Schellingwoude to Nieuioendam (steamboat to Amsterdam 6-7 times daily; seep. 305), in V2 ^ir.; or to the pleasure-garden of Zeeburg. A pleasant excursion may be made by the steam - tramway mentioned at p. 305 to Muiden (Hotel Badhuis, on the beach ; Re- staurant de la Hollande), a small town at the influx of the Vecht into the Zuiderzee, 71/2 M. to the E. of Amsterdam, with an ancient castle affording a good view of the Zuiderzee (fee 25-50 c). The road skirts the Linnaeus Garden, with an agricultural and horti- cultural school, and then proceeds past the Watergraafsmeer Polder, and the village of Diemerbrug. Beyond Muiden the tramway forks, the branch to the left leading to the small watering-place of Mxiider- berg {Badhotel ; famous echo), that to the right to Naarden (p. 363) and Hilversum (p. 363). Between the last two we stop at Jan Tabak (Restaurant, in a pretty wood), Larenberg (view-tower and view of the Zuiderzee), and Laren (Hotel Hamdorf), with the old St. Janskerkhof, from which a branch-line runs to the fishing- village of Iluizen, on the Zuiderzee. From Hilversum we may return to Amsterdam by railway (express in 1/2 hr.). To Edam a steam-tramway (p. 305) runs 6-8 times a day (to Monnikendam in 55 min., to Edam in 1 hr. 20 min. 5 fare to either 45 and 30 c, there and back 60 and 40 c.) ; also steamboat 4 times weekly via Broek and Monnikendam in about 1^2 ^^- (starting from the Prins Hendrik-Kade, see p. 808). Stations of the steam-tram- way : Buiksloot (p. 344), Zunderdorp , Schouw. Then Broek , in the Waterland, a village noted for its almost exaggerated clean- liness. The church has a pulpit of 1685. Monnikendam (Hotel Posthoorn) has some picturesque old houses (17th cent.) and a Stad- huis tower of 1591-92. The choir-screen in the church dates from 1562-63. The dykes to the S.E. of Monnikendam afford, partic- ularly towards evening, a pleasant view of the Zuiderzee and of Amsterdam (excursion to the island of Marken, see below) — Edam ( Heerenlogement ; Dam Hotel), which is famous for its cheese and gives its name to the cheese of the whole district, has some interest- ing brick buildings of the 17th century. The Stadhuis contains a few paintings. At the back of the Gothic Groote Kerk (Church of St. Nicholas), of the 14th cent., restored in 1602-26 (old stained glass), is an idyllic cemetery. A steamer plies several times a day NOORD HOLLAND. U. Route. 347 from Edam to Purmerend (p. 351) in 1-1 V4 lir. (fares 25, 16 c). — The costumes of the fisherfolk at Volendam, IY2M. to theE. of Edam, are particularly well seen on Sundays. Excursion-steamers ply daily in summer (after May 1st) from Amsterdam to the island of Marken in the Zuiderzee, leaving Am- sterdam (De Ruyter-Kade) at 10 a.m. and returning from Marken at 4.30 p.m. (return-fare 2 fl.); also sailing-boat between Monniken- dam (starting from the second station of the steam-tramway) and Marken in connexion with the trains several times daily (in 1/2-1^^. ; return-tickets 50 c, sold in the trains). The island, with a light- house on its N.E. point, is inhabited almost exclusively by fisher- men, whose gaily coloured costumes, manners, and houses retain much that is peculiar and interesting. Near the harbour is a small Restaurant. An excursion may also be made to Soestdyk (see p. 373 ; train in 3/4 hr. to Baarn. p. 355, and then by a pretty footpath through wood, 2 M.). 44. From Amsterdam and Haarlem to the Holder. North Holland. From Amsterdam to the Heldek, via Zaandam 441/2 M., via Haarlem 581/2 M., railway in 2-2^/i hrs. (fares 4, 31/4, 2 fl.). — Steamboat to Alkmaar 3 times daily in 3 hrs. (fares 75 or 50 c), starting from the De Ruyter- Kade (PI. C, 2) and calling at Zaandam and Wormerveer. The province of Noord Holland, 50 M. in length, and 25-28 M. in width, is entirely surrounded by the North Sea and the Zuiderzee, the small strip of land formerly connecting it with the continent being now intersected by the North Sea Canal (p. 345). A great part of the district lies 12-15 ft. below the level of the sea, from which it is protected on the W. side by the Dunes, and on the E. by lofty embankments. The polders (p. xxx) near the Helder are of great interest to the agricultur- alist. The cattle of this district are of a remarkably fine breed, and yield an abundant supply of excellent milk. The mutton of N. Holland' also enjoys a high reputation, and the wool of the sheep is much prized for its softness. This part of Northern Holland , lying out of the ordinary track of tourists, is not often visited, though the towns of Hoorn^ Enkhuizen^ and Alkmaar contain many important buildings of their palmy days in the 17-18th cent., while the Helder is interesting as the station of the Dutch navy. The inhabitants are more primitive in their habits than those of Southern Holland, and adhere more tenaciously to the pictur- esque costumes of their ancestors. The headdress of the women is often curious. It consists of a broad band of silver-gilt in the shape of a horse-shoe across the forehead, serv- ing to keep the hair back , and decorated at the sides with large oval rosettes of gold. Above this is worn a cap or veil of rich lace, with wings hanging down to the neck. From Amstbedam to Uitgeest, 141/2 M., railway in 40 min. — The train starts from the Central Station (p. 303), traverses the drained bed of the Y (p. 344) on an embankment, and crosses the North Sea Canal by a bridge 100 yds. long. 6 M. Zaandam (p. 344), the junction of the line to Hoorn and Enkhuizen (p. 351). The railway to the Helder skirts the canal- 348 Route 44. ALKMAAR. From Amsterdam like Zaari, passing iiinumerable windmills (comp. p. 344). — 8 M. Koog is also tlie station for Zaandyk. Both villages, with houses surrounded by gardens, retain many peculiarly Dutch characteristics. In the Town Hall, between them, is the Zaanland Antiquarian Museum, an interesting collection of antique domestic utensils, or- naments, costumes, paintings, etc., presented by Mr. Honig (adm. 25 c, Sat. 50 c). — 10 M. Wormerveer; 11 M. Krommenie. To the S. we see the Groote Kerk of Haarlem. — 14'/2 M. Uitgeest, the junction of the line from Haarlem. From Haarlem to Uitgeest, 11 M., railway in 38 min. — Haarlem, see p. 295. The train runs through a pleasant district towards the N., passing the village of Bloemendaal (p. 301), to (3 M.) Sandpoort (p. 302) , near which are the Duinlust Hotel, the lunatic asylum ofMeerenberg, and the ruin of Brederode (p. 302). On the right are pastures with fine cattle. Near (5y2 M.) Velzen, where a branch-line diverges to Ymuiden (p. 345), are numerous country-houses and pleasure-grounds. — The train then crosses the North Sea Canal (p. 345) and reaches — 7 M. Beverwyk, with country-houses and pleasure-grounds. — During the bathing-season a tramway runs from Beverwyk (in 20 min. : fare 15c.)to Wyk aan ZeelVereenigde Badhotels, with 125 rooms, R., L., & A. from i% B. 3/^, de'j. I1/2, D- 21/2, pens, from 43/4 fl.), a favourite Dutch watering-place, with a children's hospi- tal. A steamer plies hence daily, except Sun. , via Beverwyk to Amsterdam in 2^/4 hrs. (35 c, return-ticket 60 c). A pleasant walk of lY2l^r. may betaken along the beach or the Dunes to Ymuiden (p. 345). 11 M. Uitgeest (see above). — The following stations are (I6I/2 M.) Castricum and (21 M!) Heilo. 27 M. Alkmaar {Wynkamp, R., L., A., & B. I3/4, D. li^A-; Toelast ; Cafes near the Weigh Hous e), a town of 1 5, 000 inhab. , deriv- ing its name (which signifies 'all sea') from the lakes or morass which formerly surrounded it, is renowned in the history of the Dutch struggle for independence for its stout and successful resistance to the besieging Spaniards in 1573. Alkmaar is the birthplace of AUart van Everdingen (1621-75), the well-known painter of Nor- wegian landscapes. The railway-station lies about 1/4 M. from the town, the road to which leads through the pleasant public gardens. — The Church of St. Lawrence , a fine Gothic edifice (1470 - 98) , with a lofty timber vaulting, deserves a visit. In the S. aisle , near the organ (painted by Caesar van Everdingen, brother of the above-mentioned AUart), is a painting in seven sections , of 1507 , represeiiting the Seven Works of Mercy. In the S. aisle is the finely-engraved brass of Pieter Claas Palinck (1546). Carved stalls in the Renaissance style. The choir contains the ancient tomb of Floris V., Count of Holland (d. 1296). The tower ot the church fell in the 15th cent. to the Helder. HELPER. 44. Route. 349 and has never been rebuilt. A view of the church and tower is to be seen on the wall of the choir. The sacristan lives in the small square, planted with trees, to the S. of the church. There are two modern Roman Catholic Churches at Alkmaar, one in the Gothic, the other in the Romanesque style. In the Lange-Straat, the chief street of the town , rises the Stadhuis y^iih. its tower, a Gothic structure dating from 1507. It contains the municipal Museum, consisting of Alkmaar antiquities, of a few paintings, etc. Admission, Mon. and Frid. 1-3 p.m. (for strangers at other times also), 25 c. Room I. Pictures by C. Heck; painted sculptures from the portal of the Orphanage; instruments of torture. — Room II. To the right, Honihorst^ Holy Family (1632); Ravesteyn, Portrait; Caesar van Everdingen^ An admiral, 'Regent-piece' (1634), Two large corporation-pieces (painted in 1659 under the influence of Van der Heist); W. van de Velde the Elder, Battle of Copenhagen in 1658, a large cartoon ; C. van Everdingen, Lycurgus showing the results of education. — On the opposite wall, several corpora- tion-pieces of the end of the 16th and beginning of the 17th cent., of no great merit; P. de Grebber (1G23), Family-portraits; representations of the sieges of Haarlem and Alkmaar by the Spaniards; W. Bartius, Corpora- tion-piece (1634). — In the middle of the room are sculptures and weapons. — Room III. Seals, weapons, and other small works of art. Alkmaar carries on a very extensive cheese-trade. The weekly market is frequented by the peasantry of the whole province of N. Holland , who sell their cheese here to the dealers. Up- wards of 5000 tons of cheese are annually weighed in the Town Weighing House, being about one-half of the produce of the province. This building (at the end of the Lange-Straat, through the Mient to the left) was erected in 1582, and the handsome tower was com- pleted in 1599 by Cornelis Pz. Kunst. On market-days (Fridays) the whole of the picturesque place in front of the Weighing House is covered by huge piles of red and yellow cheeses, while the streets are full of the gaily-painted waggons of the neighbouring peasantry. — Many of the 17th cent, houses in the Luttik Oudorp , Zydam, Mient, Verdronken Oort, Oudegracht, and other streets, are inter- esting to students of architecture. — A monument erected in the promenade in 1876 commemorates the siege of Alkmaar in 1573. At Egmond-Binnen , 3 M. to the W. of Alkmaar, are situated the scanty ruins of the castle of Egmond, the ancestral seat of the illustrious family so often mentioned in the annals of the Netherlands. In the vicinity, at Egmond op den Hoef, is an old and ruined abbey-church, in which many of the ancient Counts of Holland are interred. The abbey at a very remote period was a zealous patron of science, and its chronicles formed the principal source of the early history of Holland. In 1572 the fanatical iconoclasts destroyed the venerable and once magnificent build- ings. A lighthouse erected in 1833 near Egmond aan Zee is adorned with a colossal lion in honour of Lieutenant Van Speyk (p. 130). The train crosses the North Holland Canal (p. 344), which skirts the back of the Dunes, and then turns to the N.E. To the right a view is obtained of the fertile Schermer Polder. — 31 72^. Heer-Hugowaard ; 341/2 M. Noord-Schaarwoude ; 39 M. Schagen; 46 M. Anna Paulowna, in the extensive polder of that name. 350 Route 44. TEXEL. 531/2 ^^' Holder {Hotel Bellevue, near tte station ; Den Burg, Toelast, near the harbour, with a good view of the Zuider-Zee) was towards the close of last century little more than a large fishing- village, but now contains 25,000 inhabitants. In 1811 Napoleon caused extensive fortifications to be constructed here by Spanish prisoners of war, and the works were afterwards completed by the Dutch. About 3/4 M. to the E., and connected with the Helder by a road along the Helder Dyke, lies Nieuwediep, the harbour at the mouth of the North Holland Canal, where the capacious wharves and magazines of the Dutch Navy, and also the Naval Cadet School, together known as Willemsoord, are situated. Part of the Dutch fleet is generally stationed here. As this , the extreme promontory of N. Holland , is exposed more than any other part of the coast to the violence of the wind and the encroachments of the sea , it is protected on all sides by huge and massive dykes. The great Helder Dyke , about 5 M. in length , and 12 ft. in width , descends into the sea to a distance of 200 ft. , at an angle of 40°. The highest tide never reaches the summit , while the lowest still covers the foundations. Huge bulwarks projecting several hundred fathoms into the sea at intervals add to the stability of the structure. This remarkable artificial coast is entirely constructed of Norwegian granite. The traveller is recommended to take a walk on this dyke, which extends from the Nieuwe Diep to the Fort Erfprins beyond the Helder. Fort KyMuin rises on the highest point of the northern dyke. The lofty lighthouse (vuurtoren) commands a fine prospect. A fierce and sanguinary naval battle took place off this Dune on 21st Aug., 1673, between the united English and French fleets and the Dutch under De Ruyter and Tromp , in which the latter were victorious. In September, 1799, an army of 10,000 English and 13,000 Russian troops, commanded by Admiral Abercrombie and the Duke of York, landed at this point. The Russians lost their way and were totally defeated by the French at Bergen, to the N. W. of Alkmaar, while the English were compelled, after a skirmish at Castricum (p. 348), to yield to the super- ior forces of the French and to retreat, having failed in their endeavours to induce the Dutch to revolt against their new masters. Opposite the Helder, and separated from the mainland by the strait of Marsdiep , which is never choked up with sand , lies the island of Tezel. A steamboat plies thither thrice daily in 3/^ hr., landing at Oudeschild, whence an omnibus plies to DeBurg (*Linde- boom ; Oranjeboom, plain), the capital of the island. On the W. coast lies the fishing- village of Koog, recently frequented as a bathing-resort (very primitive accommodation). The island, with 6400 inhab., and 73 sq. M. in extent, consists chiefly of pasture land, and supports about 34,000 sheep. Its northern extremity is called Eyerland ('land of eggs'). The eggs of the myriads of sea-fowl which visit it are collected and sent to Amsterdam. Harlingen (p. 354) in Friesland may be reached by a sailing- boat with a favourable wind in 5-6 hrs. (10-12 fl.). 351 45. From Amsterdam to Enkhuizen and Stavoren. (Leeuwarden; Harlingen; Groningen). 51 M. Railway to (37 M.) Enkhuizen in l^/ti^/z hr. Steamer from Enk- huizen to (14 M.) Stavoren in iV4 tr. — A Steamer also plies thrice weekly from Amsterdam to Enkhuizen^ starting from the De Ruyter-Kade (PI. D. 2); another daily to Boom (see below) ;comp. Van Santen's Officieele Reisgida. From Amsterdam to (6 M.) Zaandam, see p. 347. The train now crosses the Zaan, stops at Oostzaan, and skirts the Wormer Polder. 141/2 M. Purmerend (VerguldeRoskam; Heerenlogement), a small town with 6000 inhab., situated between the Purmer, Wormer, and Beemster polders. The last of these, reclaimed in 1608-12, and considered one of the finest in Holland, begins close to the Beemster Gate. Nearly in the middle of it lies Afidden Beemster (*Heerenhuis}, 4^2 M. distant. The railway to Hoorn skirts the E. side of the Beemster, pass- ing Kwadyk, Oosthuizen, and Avenhorn. 251/2 M. Hoorn {Hotel Bellevue, at the station, R. , L., & A. IY2, B. 3/4, de'j. 11/4, D. 1^4* pens. ^^2 A- 5 ^otel de Roskam, R., L., A., & B. 13/4 fi., both with cafe's-restaurants), with 10,000 inhab., the ancient capital of N. Holland , is a picturesque town with numerous quaint old buildings, the walls of which are often elab- orately adorned with tiles. Among the most interesting are the Harbour Tower (1532-1651J, on the bank of the Zuiderzee; the Stadhuis , containing a few old pictures (A. J. T. Blankerhoff, Battle in the Zuiderzee in 1573, with finely carved frame) ; the St. Jans Gasthuis; the Weigh House (iQ09)] and the Tribunalshof(iQ3i')^ in the market. The Groote Kerk contains a monument to Rear- admiral Floriszoon. The Museum contains paintings by F. Bol, W. van de Velde the Younger, J. de Baen , four corporation-pieces by J. A. Rootius, etc. In 1573 a naval engagement took place off Hoorn between the Dutch and the Spaniards, when the admiral in command of the latter was taken prisoner. Hoorn was the birthplace of Willem Schouten (b. 1580), who discovered the passage round the S. coast of America in 1616, and named 'Cape Horn' after his native town, and of J. P. Coen (b. 1587), the founder of the Dutch dominion in the East Indies, to whom a monument was erected in 1893. — From Hoorn a steam-tramway is about to be constructed to (15 M.) Alkmaar (p. 348). A branch-line also runs from Hoorn to (IOV2 M. in 45-50 min.) Medemblik (Hotel Het Wapen van Medemblik). The railway from Hoorn to Enkhuizen leads through the richest district in N. Holland. The houses of the peasants resemble villas ; most of them are surrounded by small moats and communicate with the road by tiny bridges. Stations Blokker, Westwoud, Hoogkarspel, and Bovenkarspel , all of them also stations on the steam -tramway between Hoorn and Enkhuizen. 37 M. Enkhuizen (Port van CUve; Hotel Jansen) was once a 352 Route 46. STAVOREN. flourishing town with 40,000 inhah., which at the beginning of the 17th cent, possessed a fleet of upwards of400 herring-fishing vessels. The population is now 6300 only, and not a single fishing-smack remains. The Dromedaris tower, a relic of the old forticatious, dates from 1540. The Zuiderkerk, with the tomb of the naturalist Palu- danus (d. 1633), has an interesting tower (1450-1525). The *Rood- loft in the Westerkerk , with relief-figures of Moses , Joshua , and the Evangelists, is the finest work of the kind in N. Holland (1542-73) ; beside the church is a detached wooden belfry dating from 1519. The Stadhuis (1688), in the Bree-Straat, has ceiling- paintings by Lairesse, etc. Other interesting edifices in the town are the Weigh House (1539) in the fish -market, the Mint (1611), the Orphanage (1615), and numerous private houses of the 17th century. Enkhuizen was the birthplace of Paul Potter, the painter (1625-1654). Steamers ply severa times weekly from Enkhuizen to Earlingen (p. 354). and daily, except Sun., to the island of TJrk, whicli is noted for its picturesque costumes, and to Kampen fp. 356). From Enkhuizen the steam-ferry crosses the Zuiderzee in I1/4 hr. iu immediate connection with the trains. — Stavoren^ see below. 46. From Stavoren (Amsterdam) to Leeuwarden and Groningen. From Stavoren to Leeuwarden 31 M., Railway in I72 hr. 5 to Groningen, 64 M., in 23/4-31/2 lirs. Stivoren, now a small place with 820 inhab., was the residence of the Frisian princes in the early middle ages, and subsequently a wealthy and independent commercial city , which reached the height of its prosperity at the beginning of the 13th century. It is connected with Enkhuizen (p. 351) by means of a steam-ferry. The Vi'ouwensand, a broad grass-grown sandbank in front of the har- bour, derives its name from the tradition that the wife of a wealthy merchant once desired one of her husband's captains to bring her from abroad "the most precious thing in the world'. The worthy Dutch mar- iner, in conscientious fulfilment of the request, accordingly brought back a cargo of wheat from Dantsic ! The lady, indignant at his stupidity, ordered the valuable freight to be thrown overboard at the mouth of the harbour. The grain is said to have taken root, and to have formed the foundation of the sandbank. To the E. of Stavoren lies the Gaasierland, forming an oasis of forest in the midst of a vast expanse of moor. The church of the village of Wt/ckel contains the tomb and monument of General Menno van Coehorn (d. 1704), the celebrated Dutch engineer. The railway runs to the N.E. through the fertile plain of Fries- land, passing several small stations. Hindeloopen., with a lofty church- tower, was once celebrated for its brightly coloured dresses and gaily-painted houses (p. 319). Workum contains some interesting private houses of the 17th cent, and a pretty weigh-house of 1650. The church has a detached Gothic W. tower; in the interior are richly painted biers belonging to the guUds (16-17th cent.). to Groningen. LEEUWARDEN. 46. Route. 353 17 V2 M. Sneek (Hotel de Wynberg, Stad MunsterJ, a busy little town with 11,500 inhab., carrying on a considerable trade in cheese and butter. From Sneek to Harlixgex, steam-tramway in 2-2V4 hrs. The chief intermediate station is (1/2 hr.) Bolsward (Hdiel de Wynberg), with 6500 inhab. and two churches (15th and 13th cent.), which contain richly- carved late-Gothic choir-stalls (about 1450) , fine tombstones, etc. The *Stadhuis (1614-16) is the finest Renaissance building in Friesland. — Hctrlingen^ see p. 354. Another steam-tramway runs from Sneek via Joure to Heerenveen, in IV4-IV2 lir. Several unimportant stations are now passed. 31 M. Leeuwarden (*Nieuwe Doelen ; 't Wapen van Friesland ; Phoenix; Friesch Koffiehuis; Port van Cleve ; Cafe Neuf), the ancient capital of the Frisians, with 30,400 inhab., carrying on a considerable trade in cattle and agricultural products, is the junction for Groningen on the E. and Harlingen on the W. Leaving the station and skirting the new cattle-market, we reach the Willems- kade, on a canal bordered with pleasant-looking villas. The Prins- Hendrik-Straat leads hence to the 'Zaailand', a square enclosed by the Law Courts , the Commercial School , the Orphanage, the Ex- change, and other buildings. In the Hofplein, near the centre of the town, are the Stadhuis, with a fine old hall (18th cent.) and some interesting collections in the archive-room, and the insignificant old Palace of the governors of Friesland, who were members of the Nassau-Diez family, and ancestors of the royal family of Holland. The latter is now occupied by the Royal Commissary for Friesland. The museum of the Friesch Genootschap van Geschied, Oudheid, en Taalkunde contains ethnographical curiosities, a fine cabinet of coins, and various local antiquities, including two fine *Rooms from Hindeloopen (p, 352) and some good portraits of the 16-17th cent, (including one of the jurist Viglius d'Aytta van Zwickem, 1507-77). Among the other interesting buildings in the town are the pretty Weigh House of 1598, in the Plein, the Oldehove, an un- finished Gothic tower, and the Kanselary, dating from the time of Philip II., originally a law-court built by Barth. Janszon in 1566-71. The gold and silver wares of Leeuwarden are of considerable import- ance, no fewer than 25 firms being engaged in their manufacture (comp. p. 354). The Frisian women enjoy a great reputation for beauty, and many attractive faces may be seen among the country- girls who frequent the market on Fridays. In summer, afternoon- concerts are frequently given in the pretty Stadtuin or Prinsentuin (adm. 50 c). Railway from Leeuwarden to Meppel and Zwolle, see R. 47. The Frisians are the only Germanic tribe that has preserved its name unaltered since the time of Tacitus. They are remarkable for their physical strength, their bravery, and love of independence. Charlemagne entered into a treaty with this remarkable race, by which they agreed to submit to the rulers he should place over them, on condition that they should be governed in accordance with Frisian laws. That monarch caused Baedeker's Belgium and Holland. 12th Edit. 23 354 Route 46. HARLINGEN. a collection of these laws to be made, and they still exist in the Asegabuch in the old Frisian language, as well as in Latin. Their language diflFers considerably from that of the rest of Holland, occupying an intermediate position between Anglo-Saxon and Old Xorse, and often closely resembling English. The Frisian language boasts of a not inconsiderable literature, but is gradually being supplanted by Dutch. The women of Friesland wear a kind of skull-cap of metal, usually ilver gilt, which lies close to the temples, where it is finished with spiral ornaments. These head-dresses are handed down from mother to daughter as heirlooms. The small village of Dolkum , where St. Boniface was slain by the Frisians in 755, lies 9 M. to the N.E. of Leeuwarden, and is connected by steam-tramway with Veenicouden., a station on the railway from Leeu- warden to Groningen (see below). The district between Leeuwarden and Groningen is monotonous and the stations are unimportant. From Veenwouden a tramway runs to Bergum and Dokkum (see ahove). — 33V2 M. Groningen, see p. 358. From Leeuwarden to Harlingen, I51/2 ^^-j railway in 40 min. — Stations: Deinum, Dronryp. 101/2 M. Franeker f-De Korenbeurs) was the seat of a university from 1585 to 1811, when it was suppressed hy Napoleon. Vitringa, Heineccius, Schultens, Hemsterhuis, Valkenaer, and other savants once taught here. In the choir of St. Martin s Church, completed in 1420, are several very fine tombstones of the 15-1 7th cent., placed upright against the walls. The earlier specimens are of reddish sandstone, the later (some 12 ft. long) of dark granite. The most famous Frisian sculptors or 'Antyksnyders", several of whom stu- died in Italy, were Peter Dirks and Vincent Lukas. who flourished about the middle of the 16th century. The recently restored Stadhuis (1591) contains portraits of scholars, etc. The Korntrdgerhduschen is an elegant building of 1634. The traveller should not omit to see the great curiosity of the place, an astronomical model which shows the motions of the planets, the sun, and the moon. It was constructed by Eise Eisinga , a simple burgher of Franeker, in 1774-81. 151/2 M- Harlingen ffie6renZo(7emenf;, a town of 14,000 inhab., with a harbour constructed in 1870-77, occupies almost the same site as a city which was entirely swallowed up by an inundation in 1134. In 1566 the surrounding district was again devastated and depopulated by another encroachment of the sea, in consequence of which the Spanish governor Robles de Billy caused the entire pro- vince to be surrounded by lofty dykes. The grateful inhabitants, in commemoration of this important service, erected a statue to the governor, called the Steenen Man, which is still to be seen on the sea-wall near the town. — The railway-station is 3/^ M. from the town. Steam-tramway to Sneek, p. 358. 355 47. From Amsterdam or Utrecht to Leeuwarden and Groningen. From Amstekdam to Amersfoort (28V2 M.) iu 50 min.-lV4 lir. (fares 2 fl. 30, 1 fl. 85, 1 fl. 15 c). From Utrecht to Amersfoort (14 31.) in 1/2-3/4 br. (fares 1 fl. 10, 90, 55 c). From Amersfoort to Leedwarden (98 M.), express in 3, ordinary trains in 4^/4 lirs. (fares 7 fl. 90, 6 fl. 15, 3 fl. 85 c). From Amersfoort to Groningen (102 M.) in the same time (fares 8 fl. 70, 7 fl., 4 fl. 35 c). Amsterdam, see p. 303. Thence to (18 M.) Eilversum, see R. 50. — 23 M. Baarn (Hotel Velaars, Hotel op den Brink, etc.), a favourite summer-resort of the wealthy citizens of Amsterdam, with a fine wood (the Baarnsche Bosch ; Soestdyk, see p. 373). The train now crosses the Eem and reaches (28 Y2 M.) Amersfoort. Utkecht, p. 368. The first station is (672 ^0 ^^ -^*^^ a village on the highroad to Zeist (tramway to Utrecht), the seat of the large new Meteorological Institute; then (10 M.) Soest, and (14 M.) Amersfoort, where the Amsterdam and Utrecht lines meet. Amersfoort (Muller; Be Zwaan) is an industrial town, with 15,500 inhah., situated on the Eem, in the midst of a sandy dis- trict. In 1787 the 14th cent. Church of St. Mary was partly destroyed hy an explosion of gunpowder; the tower, 308 ft. high, which was not injured, huilt about 1500 (top restored in 1655), is the finest Gothic pyramid in the country. It has a chime of hells hyFr. Hemony. The mediaeval gateways of the town are interesting. The old ramparts were levelled in 1829 and converted into pleasant promenades. Amersfoort is one of the chief seats of the Jansenists (p. 374). Outside the town, IY4M. from the station, is an eminence with a pavilion, which commands an admirable panorama of the sur- rounding district. — From Amersfoort to Zutphen and Rheine, see R. 49 ; to Arnheim and via Kesteren to Nymegen, see p. 382. The next stations beyond Amersfoort are (6 M. from Amersfoort) Nykerk, (11 M.) Putten, and (14 M.) Ermelo-Veldwyk. The soil is sandy and generally sterile, but tobacco is extensively planted here. This district is the Veluwe, lying between the Zuiderzee and the Yssel, and is one of the highest parts of Holland (300-350 ft. above the sea). 17 M. Harderwyk (Hotel Kamm; Hotel Ducroix), a small for- tress and seaport on the Zuiderzee, is the depot for the Dutch E. Indian recruits. The university, founded in 1648, was closed in 1811. 201/2 M. Hulshorst; 24 M. Nunspeet; 30 M. Elhurg-Oldebroek; 35 M. Wezejp ; 38 M. Hattem. The Yssel is now crossed by a long iron bridge. 42 M. Zwolle (*Keizerskroon, Kampen-Straat, R., L., A., & B 21/2, dej. 11/4, D. incl. wine 2, omn. 1/4^-5 Heerenlogement, in the Groote Markt, commercial, R., L., & A. 2 fl., B. 65 c, D. incl. win© 21/4, pens. 4-5 fl., well spoken of; Hotel Voskamp), the capital of the province of Over-Yssel, with 29,500 inhab., is situated on the 23* 356 Route 47. KAMPEN. From Amsterdam Zwarte Water, a small river wMch falls into tlie Zuiderzee. Ap- proaching the town from the station we observe the Sassen-Poort, an old Gothic gateway of brick, with four towers, to the right, at the end of a broad sheet of water surrounded by fine trees. In the market rises the spacious Gothic Church of St. Michael, begun in 1406, which contains a fine carved pulpit, executed by 'Adam Straes van "Weilborch uyt dat Duyts Land Nassauwe', about 1620, and an excellent organ (1 hr"s performance 6 fl.). The choir-screen dates Tom 1592. Beside the church is the picturesque Guard- House of ...614. Tlie Stadhuis (iAAS ; exterior modernized) contains on the groundfloor a handsomely painted and fitted up Gothic *Council- room, with carved figures supporting the roof, said to be caricatures of councillors of Kampen. The marriage-room has a fine Gothic chandelier (14th cent.?} and chimney-piece. Next to the little Gothic Bethlehem Church in the Sassen-Straat is a handsome mer- chants-house of 1571. The country-people who frequent the town on Fridays wear quaint costumes. — ZwoUe was the birthplace of the celebrated painter Gerard Terburg or ter Borch (1617-81), none of whose works, however, are preserved here. — Thomas a Kempis. the author of the 'Imitation of Christ', which has been translated into almost every known language, lived for nearly 64 years in a monastery on the Agnetenherg, 3 M. from Zwolle, where he died in 1471, in his 92nd year. — Excursion to Vilsteren. Fbom Zwolle to Dieeen, 35 31., railway in 2^4*372 lirs. Chief stations: Hattem (p. 355); Het Loo (Hotel de Meuwe Kroon). The royal chateau was the favourite residence of William I. and William III., and is shown only in the absence of the queen. Visitors are admitted to the beautiful 'Tark daily after 10 a.m. on application to the gardener. — !Nest stations: Apel'doorn (p. 360); DUren (p. 362). Frgm Zwolle to Kampen, 8 M., railway in 15-20 min. (fares 65, 55, 35 c). — Intermediate station, Mastenbroek. Kampen ('^ Hotel des Pays-Bas, R., L., & A. 174-1^/4, B. 3/^. D.13/4fi.; *Dom van Keulen; Hotel de Moriaan), on the Yssel (here crossed by a new bridge), near its influx into the Zuiderzee, is a quiet and clean Dutch town of 20,000 inhab.. a favourite residence of persons with limited incomes (no municipal taxes). The town, once a member of the Hanseatic League, was at the height of its prosperity in the 15th cent., before the harbour was silted up. The Koornmarkts-Poort, one of the four ancient gateways, dates from the 14th century. The church of St. Nicholas, ox Bovenkerk (under restor- ation), an imposing Gothic edifice with double aisles, ambulatory, and radiating chapels (comp. p. 367) , and that of St. Mary , or Buitenkerk (Roman Catholic), also date from the 14th century. The chief object of interest, however, is the *STADHris, restored after a fire in 1543. The six statues on the facade (Charlemagne. Alexan- der the Great. Moderation. Fidelity, Justice, and Neighbourly Love) apparently date from the previous building of the 14th century. to Groningen. MEPPEL. 47. Route. 357 The council- room, with elaborately carved magistrates' seats (not- ably the two presidents' chairs) by M. Vrederick (1546), an almost overladen sculptured chimney-piece by Jacob Colyns de Nole of Utrecht (1545), and an artistic iron trellis before one of the win- dows, is among the most characteristic curiosities in the country. It contains a small collection of antiquities. A later addition (1740-41) contains tapestry, portraits of stadtholders, tankards, etc. In the vicinity is the Broederkerk (15th cent.), the former Minorite church, and the Tower of the Holy Ghost, built in 1649-64 by Vingboons, as a kind of landmark between theBovenstadandBuiten- stad. — Kampen is the seat of a reformed theological school, with 6 professors and about 60 students. From Kampen to Amsterdam, steamboat almost daily in4V2brs.5 also via Urk (p. 352) to Enkhuizen (p. 351), to Zicolle (p. 355), and to Deventer (p. 360). Beyond Zwolle the train crosses the Vecht. 46 M. Dalfsen; 51 M. Dedemsvaart (steam-tramway \iiAvereest to Heemse-Har den- berg) ; 541/2 M. Staphorst. 58 M. Meppel (^Heerenlogement ; De Bonte Koe , well spoken of), a town with 8500 inhab. and an important butter-market. The line to Leeuwarden here turns to the left, that to Groningen to the right; carriages changed. The Leeuwarden Line continues to run towards the N. ; it crosses the Drentsche-Hoofd Kanaal,a.nii^3LS5es (61 1/2 ^0 ^yenveen, and (661/2 M.) Steenxvyk (Bellevue; Het Posthuis; Varrenhorst), a small town of 5000 inhab. The Pauper Colonies of Fbedeeiksooed , Wilhelminaoord, and WiLLEMSooRD lie to the E. of Steenwyk. These colonies were founded during the famine of 1816 and 1817 by a charitable society established for that end, and now support about 2000 paupers. Each adult, if able- bodied and willing to work, is provided with a few acres of land, and occasionally with a cow, a pig, and a few sheep. There are also other excellent arrangements, by means of which the majority of the colonists are rendered entirely self-supporting after the first outlay has been made. The houses are visited almost daily by the superintending officials, and the strictest discipline is everywhere observed. The Colonies of Veenhdizen, 9 M. to the W. oi Assen (p. 358), con sist of three extensive buildings , about V2 M. apart, two of which were destined for the reception of orphans , and the third for beggars. The orphan-asylums were, however, unsuccessful, and the buildings are now occupied by paupers. Another similar colony is that of Ommerschans , 9 M. to the S. E. of Meppel, in the province of Over-Yssel. The latter is partly used as a penal settlement for the idle and the disorderly, and partly as a reformatory for beggars. Beyond Steenwyk the line turns to the N.W. 71 M. Peperga- Oldemarkt; 721/2 M. Wolvega; 78 M. Oudeschoot. — From(80V2M.) Heerenveen (Hotel JorissenJ, a town with 6000 inhab., situated in a pretty district, with numerous country-seats, excursions may be made to (3/4 hr.) Oranjewoud and (2 hrs.) Olterterp. Steam-tram- ways run to Sneek (p. 353) and to Drachten [i^ji-l hrs.). — To the left are several lakes, the largest of which is the Sneeker Meer. 358 Routed?. GRONINGEN. Nnmerous windmills are used for purposes of drainage. From (87 M.) Akkrum, a canal-toat runs to Sneek (p. 353) and to Bolsward (p. 353). 90 M. Grouw-Irnsum : 93 M. Wirdum. 98 M. Leeuwarden. see p. 353. Tlie Meppel and Groningen Line at first turns towards tlie E. , and follows the course of tlie small Oude Diep. At (70 M. from Amersfoort) Hoogeveen the stream is quitted , and the line turns to the N. — Between (77 M.) Beilen and Hooghalen the Oranje Kanaal is crossed. 86 M. Assen (*H6tel Somer), a town with 8500 inhab., partly- concealed hy wood, is the capital of the province of Drente. The tumuli or 'giants' graves' at Bolde (1/2 l^^.'s drive from Assen), and at Gieten, Eext, Borger, etc., are objects of great interest to the antiquarian. The huge stones which mark these spots recall those of Stonehenge. Beyond Assen the line follows the course of the Oude Aa , at some distance from the stream. Just before (93M.) Vries-Zuidlaren, close to the railway, is an excellent specimen of a tumulus (steam- tramway to Groningen, see below). 95V2^I- DePunt; 98 M. Haren. 102 M. Groningen. — Hotels. *Doelen, in the Grroote Markt (PI. C, D, 2), R., L., A., & B. 2, dej. 3/4, d. IV2, omn. V4 A- ; *Fei6GE, Heere-Straat (PI. D, 2), R., L., & A. IV4-IV4, B. 3/4, D. incl. wine 21/2 fl.; *Hotel-Restaura>-t Willems. Heere-Straat 54, R., L., & A. 2-2V2, B. 3/4, D. 11/2, pens. 31/2, omn. V* fl.; 'Zeven Peovincien, R., L., & A. IV2 tl., B. 60 c., D. 21/4, omn. V^ ^-5 tWapex van Amsterdam, both in the Groote j\Iarkt; '-'Blaauwe Paaed, near the Nieuwe Kerk. unpretending; Hotel Feieslakd, Kleine Pelter-Straat 43, R. & B. IV2 fl. ; Hotel Kiek, opposite the Exchange, R., L., A., d: B. IV2, D. IV2 fl. Cafes-Restaurants. Eackerhrdu. Groote Markt; Willems (see above), Heere-Straat: Cafi Groenendael^ Heere-Straat; Va7i der Slvis. Vischmarkt; Be Boer, Groote 31arkt; JSacana, Gulden-Straat; Osncibrilcker Bierhalle.'?)io^\- draaier-Straat. Tramway from the station to the Groote Markt and thence to the Ehhingeport and the station of the Delfzyl railway (10 c), with a branch to the Sterrebosch (12 c). Groningen, the capital of the province of the same name, with 57,900 inhab. (7000 Rom. Cath., 3000 Jews), lies at the junction of the Drente' sche Aa, or Hoornsche Diep, and the Hunse, ox D rents che Diep. The latter is called Reitdiep from this point to its mouth (12 M. to the N.W.), and being converted into a canal, with two locks, is navigable for large sea-going vessels. Rape-seed and grain are the staple commodities of the place. The peasants who cultivate the former are generally free-holders, and often remarkably well-to- do, many of them possessing 10-20 horses. The old fortifications have been converted into boulevards and gardens. The Groote Markt. or market-place, is one of the most spacious in Holland. The Church of St. Martin (PI. C, 2) situated here is a fine Gothic structure with a lofty tower (432 ft.), erected after a fire in 1627. Opposite to it is the extensive Stadhuis (PI. C, 2), restored in 1787-1810. Behind is the elegant Collectehuis (PI. C, ^vi\.l Jp^.^ c>^ ^, -r-i^V^ ^ ^f; k^. GRONINGEN. 47. Route. 359 D, 2) of 1635. Many of the private houses (17th cent., etc.) are of interest to the student of architecture. The University (PL C, 3), founded in 1614, possesses an excel- lent natural history museum, which is established in the hand- some academy buildings (erected in 1851) , with their fine Ionic colonnade. There are 39 professors and about 460 students. A collec- tion of Germanic antiquities is in course of formation. Among the treasures of the library is a copy of the New Testament of Erasmus with marginal annotations by Luther. — Opposite is the Roman Catholic Broederkerk (PI. C, 3), adorned with large pictures of the Passion by L. Hendricx (1865). The Deaf and Dumb Asylum, founded in 1790 and supported chiefly by voluntary contributions, educates 200 pupils. Public ex- aminations on Wednesdays, 11-12 o'clock, A small monument to the founder Guyot (d. 1828) has been erected in the ox-market (PI. C, 3), in front of the building. To the N. is the Noorderkerk (PI. B, 3), built in 1660-64 on the plan of the church of the same name in Amsterdam. — To the S. is the Aa-Kerk (Pi. B. 2), with a curious tower of 1712. The Harbour (Ooster, Noorder, Zuider Haven) generally presents a busy scene. Extensive warehouses have recently been erected on theE. side of the town. — The projecting corner of a street in the vicinity, called the 'owde kiek inH jat straaV ('the old peep into the harbour street'), is adorned with the head of a bearded man, with the inscription '/cfc kiek noch m'f ('I still peep into it'). It is said to commemorate a siege by the Bishop of Miinster and the electoral troops of Cologne in 1672, when the besiegers were compelled to retreat, as they were unable to prevent supplies being brought into the town by the Reitdiep. The inscription imports, that, as long as the harbour is free from enemies, no real danger from besiegers need be apprehended. From Groningen TO Delfztl, I8V2M., railway inlV2-2hrs. The train skirts the Eems-Kanaal, passing several unimportant stations. — Delfzyl lies on the Dollart, a gulf 6 M. broad, at the mouth of the Ems , formed in 1277 by an inundation. On the opposite side of the Dollart lies Emden (see Baedeker's Northern Germany). From Groningen to Rodeschool, 15 M., railway in I72-2 hrs. The train passes several unimportant stations. Opposite (15 M.) Rodeschool lies the island of Rottum. To the N. W. of Groningen lies the island and bathing-resoi't of Schiermonnik-Oog {Inn, in the village; Badhdtel, IV2 M. from the village, pens, at both 3V2 A.), frequented chiefly by the Dutch themselves. A steamer plies thither in about 6 hrs. 5 landing difficult. 48. From Groningen to Bremen. 107 M. Ddtch Railway to Niemoeschans or Neuschanz , 29 M. , in I-IV4 hr. (fares 2 fl. 35. 1 fl. 90, 1 fl. 20c.) ; Oldenburg Railway to Bremen, 78 M., in 33/4 brs. (fares, in German money, 7 M 60, 5 Jl 70, 3 ./« 80 pf.) Groningen., p. 358. The line generally skirts a canal called the Schuiten or Winschoter Diep. That part of the province of Groningen 360 Route i9. APELDOORN From Amsterdam which lies to the S. of the railway has heen converted, in the course of the present century, by dint of unremitting industry, from a barren waste into fruitful fields. New villages are constantly springing up here. — 71/2 ^I- Kropswolde ; 9M. Hoogezand-Sappe- meer; 14 M. Zuidbroek, with a brick church of the 13th cent, (steam- tramway to Buinermond on the Stadscanal, see below); 18 M. Scheemda. — 21 M. Wm^cftofen (Hotel Wissemann), also with a 13th cent, brick church, is connected by a steam-tramway with Finster- u'olde, to the N., and with the Stadscanal (see above), to the S. About 11/2 M. from Winschoten, at Heiligerlee, a monument was erected in 1873 to commemorate the first victory of the Netherlanders under Louis of Xassau, brother of Willii.m the Silent, over the Spaniards in 1568, with which the 80 years' struggle for liberty began. The monument re- presents Batavia with the flag of liberty; at the side of the latter an en- raged lion 5 underneath, the dying Adolph of Is'assau, youngest brother of William the Silent, who fell during the battle. 28V2 M. Nieuweschans, German Neuschanz, is the last place in Holland"'. 3IV2 M. Bunde; 35 M. Weener; 40 M. Ifirhove. Thence via Leer and Oldenburg to Bremen, see Baedeker^s Northern Germany. 49. From Amsterdam via Deventer and from Arnhem via Zutphen to Salzbergen - Rheine (Germany). Dutch State Railway. From Amsterdam to Devtnter^ 66 M., in 2-274hrs.; from Deventer to Rheine^ 63 M., in V/2-2'^/2 hrs. From Amsterdam via Amersfcort to Zutphen, 66 M., in 2-23 4 hrs.: from Arnhem to Zutphen, 19 M., in 1/2-I hr. (from Amsterdam via Arnhem to Zutphen, 75 M. , ex- press in 21/2 hrs.). — From Zutphen to Rheine^ 58 M., in 2V2-3^2 hrs. — From Rotterdam to Arnhem via Gouda, 721/2 M., express in 2-2V2 brs. This is the route followed by the express-trains between Amsterdam or Rotterdam and the whole of N. Germanv. From Amsterdam to Berlin, express in 111/4-13 hrs. (fares 54 JSf 40, U'j/ 50 pf.); from Rotterdam to Berlin express in 12-14 hrs. (fares 55 Jl 30, 42 Ji 30 pf.)- From Amsterdam to (281/2^10 Amersfoort, see R. 47. — 38V2 ^^' Barneveld, pleasantly situated to the S. of the station. 55 M. Apeldoorn (Z>e Moriaan ; Hotel Apeldoorn ; Het Loo or Keizerskroon 8,ndi De Nieuwe Kroon, near the chateau), a prosperous village with 3000 inhab. , is picturesquely situated on the Grift and the Dieren Canal. The produce of its numerous paper-mills is principally exported to the E. Indies. Near Apeldoorn is the royal chateau Het Loo (p. 356). — ToZwolle and Dieren, see p. 356. From Apeldookn to Zutphex, 10'/2M. — The train crosses theDiertn Canal. — 63 M. Voorst, prettily situated, with numerous villas. — The train crosses the Yfsel bv an imposing bridge, together with the Arnhem sine (see p. 362). 66 M. 'Zutphen, see p. 362. The railway to Deventer diverges to the left from the Zutphen line: Stations Teuge; Twelloo. The train crosses the Yssel. 66 M. Deventer {Engel ; Moriaan ; Zum Franziskaner, with res- taurant; DeKeizer, at the station, well spoken of), situated on the frontier of Guelders and Over- Yssel (J.e. 'beyond the Yssel'), is a io Eheine, DEVENTER. 49. Route. 361 clean and prosperous town with 23,700 inhab., the birthplace of the celebrated philologist Jacob Gronovius (1645-1716), and the theologian Gerrit Groote (1340-84). The large Gothic *Groote Kerk, or church of St. Lebuinus, has a Romanesque crypt of the end of the 11th cent, and a fine Gothic tower of the 15th cent. ; the other tower is unfinished. The Berg Kcrk has two late-Romanesque towers. The Stadhuis contains a good picture by Terhurg (p. 356), who was burgomaster of Deventer in his later years and died here in 1681. The neighbouring Police Office is a Renaissance edifice of 1632. In the 'Brink', the finest square in the town, are the late-Gothic Weigh House of 1528 (now a gymnasium), with a large outside staircase of 1643-44, and several elegant private houses ('Three Golden Her- rings', etc.). The town possesses several thriving iron-foundries and carpet-manufactories. Deventer is locally famous for its honey-cakes, a kind of gingerbread, tons of which are annually sent to different parts of Holland. Steam-tramway vili Laren and Lochem (p. 863) to Borculo (see below). Fkom Deventer to Zwolle, 18'/2 M., railway in '/i-l'/* lir- — 3 M. Liepenveen, V/^M. from the station; 6M. Olst^ wltli 4500 inhab. and exten- sive brick-fields. — 10 M. Wyhe (De Brabantsche Wagen; Greeve) a straggl- ing village with 4C00 inhab., in a beautifully- wooded district with numerous villas ('Buitenplaatsen'). — 14 M. Winde&heim ^ formerly the seat of a convent. — I8V2 M. Zwolle, see p. 355. From Deventer to Zutphen, 10 M., railway in 16-35 min., via (8 M.) Gorssel. The next stations are unimportant. In the church of Bathmeu frescoes, supposed to date from 1379, were discovered in 1870. — 87 M. Almelo, a small town of 4000 inhab. , with a chateau of Count Rechteren-Limpurg. — At (99 M.) Hengtlo our line joins the line from Arnhem via Zutphen (p. 363). — 106 M. Oldenzaal. From Oldenzaal a line runs to Ruurlo (p. 363) via Enschede (junction for Gronau and Hengelo), Boekelo (junction for Hengelo, p. 363), Neede, and Borculo (steam-tramway to Deventer via Lochem, see above). The railway now crosses the Prussian frontier. II31/2 M^« Gilde- haus is the first German station. 1151/2 M- Bentheim (*Bellevue ; *Bad Bentheim), a small and picturesquely-situated town, is commanded by a chateau of Prince Bentheim, the oldest parts of which date from the 12th century. The Bentheim mineral spring is efficacious in cases of gout and rheu- matism. The German custom-house examination takes place here. Next station Schuttorf. At (124M.) Salzbergen our train reaches the Westphalian Railway , which it then follows to Rheine. 129 M. Rheine (* Hotel Schulze ; *Railway Restaurant), see Baedeker s Northern Germany. From Arnhbm to Zutphen and Salzbeegen-Rheine. — Arn- hem, see p. 375. — The train follows the direction of the Neio or Guelders Yssel, an arm of the Rhine which begins above Arn- 362 Route 49. ZUTPHEN. hem and owes its origin to a canal constructed by the Roman general Drusus in B. C. 13 to connect the Rhine with the Zuider- zee. The line, however, seldom touches the river. — 4 M. Velp, see p. 377. Numerous pleasant country-houses are passed. — 71/2 M. De Steeg, the station for Rhedersteeg, a popular Dutch watering-place, with the chateau of Rhederoord (*De Engel Inn). A pleasant walk may he taken from De Steeg through the pretty 'Middachten Allee' to Dieren, the next station. — 10^2 ^T' Dieren, with several attractive villas. Near Dieren is the hydropathic esta- blishment of Laag Soeren. Steam Teamva^ay to (V4 hr.) Velp (p. 377). Another steam - tramway runs from Dieren to Doesborgh (Hotel Hof Gelria; Jannes), a small town at the union of the Old and the New Yssel, which was stormed by the Spaniards in 1585, and then along the Old Yssel via, Doetinchem {-p. 378) and (li/s hr.) Terborg to Gendringen. 14 M. Brummen , with the villas of numerous wealthy Dutch merchants. To the E. rise the hills of the Veluwe [p. 375). The train crosses the Yssel together with the Apeldoorn line (see p. 360). 19 M. Zutphen (^Soleil, R. & B. 2-2V2, D. incl. wine 21/2 fl. ; Hollandsche Tuin, in the Groenmarkt, R. & B. 13/4-21/4, D. incl. wine 21/4 fl. ; Keizershroon, R., L., A., & B. I3/4, D. 1^2^-), situated at the confluence of the Berkel and the Yssel, is a town with 18,000 inhab., with remains of its mediaeval fortifications on the Berkel and beyond. The most important edifice is the Gothic Church of St. Wal- burgis, or Groote Kerk, dating from the 12th cent, (under restoration). It contains a copper *Font supported by lions, in the Renaissance style, cast in 1527, a Gothic candelabrum of gilded iron (spoiled by its conversion into gas-brackets), half-relief sculptures on the pulpit, and a handsome modern monument of the Yan Heeckeren family, all of which are worthy of inspection. The chapter-house, in which the capitals of the columns are noticeable, contains the old *Library, dating from pre-Reformation days ; the books (about 400, including valuable MSS. and incunabula) are chained to the desks. The upper part of the tower dates from 1637, its predecessor having been destroyed by lightning. Opposite is the Stadhuis. The Wynhuis Tower, on the groundfloor of which is the police-office, has two gal- leries and contains a good set of chimes. The vestibule, on the Lange Hoofdstraat, dates from 1660. Several of the brick buildings (16- 17th cent.) in the Zaadmarkt, Groenmarkt, etc., are architecturally interesting. The timber which is floated in rafts from the Black Forest down the Rhine and Y^'ssel forms the chief article of commerce at Zutphen. About 21/2 M. to the N. of Zutphen ia situated the agricultural colony of Nederlandsch Mettray, a Protestant institution founded in 1851 for the education of poor boys and foundlings. It was first instituted by Hr. Schutter, who presented 16,000 fl. for the purpose, and has since been liberally supported and extended by private contributions. The estate of Rvsselt, about 50 acres in area, has been purchased by the society, and upwards of 150 boys are educated here (about 12 in each house). HILVERSUM. 50. Route. 363 Fkom Zutphen to Winteeswtk, 2772 M. , railway in 1 hr. 5 min. Stations : Vorden^ Ruurlo (junction for Zevenaar, p. 378, and for Oldenzaal and Gronau, p. 361), Lichtevoorde-Groenlo. The line is prolonged from. Winterstcyk to BochoU and Wesel (p. 378) and also to Dorsten. No quick trains. — To Zwolle, see p. 355. Beyond Zutphen the train crosses numerous canals and tribut- aries of the Yssel. Stations : Laren^ Lochem, "both connected by steam- tramways with Deventer and Borculo (p. 361) ; Markelo, Goor, Delden (Hotel Carelshaven ; near Delden is the chateau of Twickel, with a fine park, the property of the Van Heeckeren family). — At (47 M.) Hengelo we join the line coming from Deventer ; see p. 361. 50. From Amsterdam to TTtrecht. a. Via Breukelen. 22 M. Railway in 1/2-174 hr. (fares 1 fl. 80, 1 fl. 30, 90 c). The trains start from the Central Station but call at the Weesper Poort Station. Amsterdam, see p. 303. The immediate environs of Amsterdam consist chiefly of polders (p. xxx). The most remarkable of these, and one of the lowest in Holland, is the Diemermeer (16 ft. below the mean sea-level), the "W. side of which the train skirts soon after quitting the station. Extensive nurseries and kitchen-gardens, intersected by numerous canals, are also passed. — 7 M. Abcoude; 10 M. Loenen-Vreeland. At (IIV2 ^0 Nieuwersluis the railway crosses the Vecht. 14 M. Breukelen, also a station on the line from Gouda to Am- sterdam (R. 51). — I7Y2 M. Maarssen. — The Vecht, which is not seen from the railway, is bordered with a succession of villas, sum- mer-houses, and gardens. Numerous steamboats ply on the Vecht, and an excursion in one of them, e.g. from Utrecht to Nieuwersluis, is very enjoyable. 22 M. Utrecht (Central Station), see R. 53. b. Via Hilversum. 271/2 M. Railway in 3/4.I3/4 hr. (fares 1 fl. 80, 1 fl. 30, 90 c). Trains start from the Central Station. Amsterdam, see p. 303. The line runs towards the E. and in- tersects the Water graafsmeer polder, with its fresh green meadows. 10 M. Weesp, a small town on the Vecht. The polders next tra- versed were formerly the Naarder Meer. — 14^2 M- Naarden- Bussum. The small fortified town of Naarden (De Kroon), a little to the N. of the line, possesses a church with vaulting painted in the Gothic style. The Stadhuis and the orphanage contain a few paintings. 18 M. Hilversum (Hof van Holland) is a prosperous town with 13,000 inhab., factories of various kinds, and the villas of numerous wealthy citizens of Amsterdam. It is the junction for the line to 364 Route 51. GOUDA. From Rotterdam Amersfoort (p. 355) and is also connected with Amsterdam by a steam-tram-way, passing Naarden (p. 363) and Muiden (p. 346). The neighbourhood here is attractive, and suggestive of pleasant walks and drives. 24 M. Maartensdyk. 28 M. Utrecht (Oosterspoor), see p. 368. 51. From Kotterdam to Utrecht and Amsterdam via Gouda. 441/2 31. Eailwat to (38 M.) Utrecht in I-I1/2 hr. (fares 2 fl. 70, 2 fl. 5, 1 fl. 35 c; express 20 per cent more); to Amsterdam in 11/4-2 lirs. (3 fl. 50, 2 fl. 75, 1 fl. 75 c). The train starts from the Rhenish Station on the Maas (PI. G, 3), and traverses a district of canals and pastures. 41/2 M^- Capelle; 7M. Nieuwerkerk. The line skirts the E. side of the extensive Zuidplas- Polder. — Beyond (10 M.) Moordrecht the Kromme Gouw is crossed. 127.2 M. Gouda, commonly called Ter-Gouw (*De Zalm, in the market-place, R., L., A., &B.2V4, de'j. 1, D. 21/4, omn. ViA-)' * *<^^^ of some importance at the confluence of the Gouw and the Yssel^ with 18,500 inhab. and large brick-fields, is encircled with fine old trees. Two hours suffice to inspect the stained glass in the Groote Kerk and visit the Museum. — On leaving the railway- station we take the street to the left, which soon turns to the right and leads across several canals to (V4 M.) the market-place, with the town- hall (see p. 365). Near it is the Groote Kerk; entrance on the S. side of the choir ; the sacristan (20 c.) lives at No. 33 A, opposite. The Groote Kerk (St. JoJin) , founded in 1485, and rebuilt after a fire in 1552, is a striking example of late-mediaeval art. The round -arched arcades are borne by thirty-six circular pillars. The lofty barrel-vaulting is of wood. The'hea.utitnl *Stained-Glass Windows illustrate the transition from the ecclesiastical style of glass-painting to the heraldic and allegorical style of secular art at that period. There are in all 31 large and 13 smaller stained- glass windows, pre- sented by princes, towns, and private individuals after the above-men- tioned fire. The best of these (12 in number) were executed by the brothers Wouter and Dirk Crabeth in 1555-77; the others being the work of other more or less well-known masters (Lambert van Mcrt, Willem Tyhaut) down to 1603. Some of them have unfortunately been indifferently restored in the 17th cent, and later. The subjects of the older windows are Scriptural, with figures of saints and of the donors, those of the later are armorial bearings or allegorical representations. The following are by the brothers Crabeth: No. 5. (beginning from the main entrance), Solomon and the Queen of Sheba; 6. Judith and Holofernes; 7. Last Supper, presented by Philip II. of Spain, whose portrait it contains; 8. Punishment of Heliodorus, the desecrator of the temple; 12. (farther on , in the retro-choir) Nativity ; 14. Preaching of John the Baptist ; 15. Baptism of Christ; 16. Preaching of Christ; 18. John the Baptist in prison; 22. Christ driving the merchants and money-changers out of the Temple, a gift of "William I. of Orange, afterwards" enlarged ; 23. Christ to Utrecht. WOERDEN. 51. Route. 365 washing the feet of the Disciples ; at the top, Elijah's sacrifice •, 24. Below, Peter and John healing the lame man : above. Philip baptising the Ethiopian eunuch. — The coloured drawings and the original cartoons of the brothers Crabeth are preserved in the sacristy. — The Municipal Library, a considerable collection, is kept in an adjoining room. The late-Gothic /Sfad/iwi5 (1449-59), in the middle of the market- place, is a most noteworthy building, with a Renaissance outside staircase by Cools (1603). Behind it is the Meat Market (1691). The tasteful Weigh House, by Pieter Post (1668), also in the market- place, is adorned with a masterly relief by Barth. Eggers. The To-wN Museum (adm. 25 c), in the market-place, chiefly contains antiquities connected with the town, and a few corporation pictures and portraits by Wouter Crabeth the Younger, Corn. Ketel (b. at Goudain 1578), and others. The chief objects of interest are a corporation-piece by Ferd. Bol, and a fine enamelled and gilded chalice and paten, presented to the 'shooters' guild' of G' uda by the Countess Jacqueline of Bavaria in 1425. — The adja ent Or- phanage contains a good regent-piece by J. Verzyl. From Godda to the Hague, 1772 M., branch-line of the Rhyn--poorweg in V2-V4 hr. (fares 1 fl. 45, 1 fl. 15, 70 c). Stations Zevenhuizm- Moer- Tcapelle, Zoetermeer- Zegwaard , Voorhurg, and the Hague (p. 265). Steam- tramway to Scheveningen in connection with the trains, see p. 285. Gouda is connected by steam-tramways with Bodegraven (p. 265 ; 50 min.), and with Oudeicaier (see below; 1 hr., 6-9 times daily). — Steamboat several times daily in 1 hr. to Boskoop (Klaassen; Van der Stam) , with large nurserj'-gardens (roses, rhododendrons, azalias, clematis, etc.), well worth a visit when the flowers are in bloom. — Steamboats also to Rotterdam, Leyden, etc. 20 M. Oudewater , on the Yssel , was the birthplace of Ar- minius, after whom the 'Remonstrants' (p. 385) were called Armin- ians. A picture in the Stadhuis by Dirck Stoop commemorates the brutal excesses committed here by the Spaniards in 1575. 24 M. Woerden, with 6000 inhab., situated on the 'Old Rhine', formerly a fortress , was captured and cruelly treated by the army of Louis XIV. under Marshal Luxembourg in 1672 (an event de- scribed by Voltaire). In 1813 it was occupied by the Dutch, but taken by the French under General Molitor and again plundered. The fortifications have now been demolished, and their site converted into public promenades, which afford a fine view of the town and its environs. The former town-hall (1501 and 1614) is a quaint and picturesque little building, with an old pillory in front of it ; the carved panelling of the council-chamber dates from 1610. — From Woerden to Leyden, see p. 265. Beyond (2572 M.) Harmelen (tramway to Utrecht, p. 368) the canals become rarer , and the country more undulating and agri- cultural. The Amsterdam line diverges here, and unites with the direct line from Utrecht to Amsterdam at stat. Breukelen (p. 363). 38 M. Utrecht, see p. 368. — Thence to Amsterdam, see R. 50. 366 52. From Liege to Utrecht. 119 M. Railway in 51/4-61/2 irs. ; fares 17 fr. 93, 13 fr. 90, 8 fr. 98 c; or, in Dutch money, 9 fl. 50, 7 fl. 60, 4 fl. 75 c. Liege, see p. 209. The train starts from the Station des Guil- lemins, and calls also at the stations of Jonfosse, Palais, and de Vi- vegnis (comp. p. 209). It then skirts the hills enclosing the Meuse, hut at some distance from the river, as far as — 2 M. Herstal, almost a suburb of Liege, said to be the birth- place of Pepin 'of Heristal', the majordomo of the palace, or chief officer of the king, and practically the regent of the great Frankish empire, as the power of the Merovingian monarch s had begun to decline. Herstal also contests vrith Aix-la-Chapelle the glory of being the birthplace of Charlemagne. In 870 Charles the Bald of France concluded a treaty here with Lewis the German concerning the partition of Lorraine. Admission to the large arms-factory on application (comp. p. 210). The train now quits the valley of the Meuse. — 5 M. Milmort. From (6 M.) Liers a branch-line runs to Rocourt and Ans (p. 202). 11 M. Glons; 121/2 M. Nederheim. 15 M. Tongeren, French Tongres (Hotel du Casque), the Roman AduaticaTongri, is a town with 7200 inhabitants. At the beginning of the 4th cent, it was the seat of a bishop, whose residence, how- ever, was removed to Maastricht in 346 to secure the protection of the latter's fortifications, and was afterwards transferred to Liege. The handsome Gothic Church of Notre Dame, erected in 1240, with choir and tower of the 15th cent. , possesses a painted wooden statue of the Virgin (12-13th cent.), a valuable collection of sacred vessels, and Romanesque cloisters with fine sculptures. In the market-place is a bronze statue of Ambiorix. — Branch to St. Trond and Tirlemont, see p. 201. 20 M. Hoesselt; 21 M. Bilsen (branch -line to Munsterbilsen, p. 179); 24 M. Beverst (p. 179); 261/2 M. Diepenleek. 31 M. Hasselt, where the line unites with the Antwerp, Maas- tricht, and Aix-la-Chapelle railway (see p. 179). Scenery uninteresting, but the bridges over the arms of the Meuse and Rhine towards the end of the journey are worthy of notice. Stations Zonhoven , Helchteren, Wychmael-Beverloo (junction of the line from Bourg-Leopold to Maaseycic), Exel. — 52M. Neerpelt (Hotel Neuf, at the station), situated in iheCampineLimbourgeoise, a former moor converted by irrigation into a fertile plain, is the junction for the Gladbach and Antwerp line (p. 181). 57 M. Achel (last station in Belgium); 62 M. Valkenswaard (first in Holland); 641/2 M. Aalst-Waalre ; 69 M. Eindhoven (p. 383, junction of the Venlo line); Best; 81 M. Boxtel (p. 383), and (86 M.) Vught (also connected with 'S Hertogenbosch by a steam-tramway). 891/2 M. 'S Hertogenbosch, or 'S Bosch, French Bois-le-Duc (Eenhorn, R., L., A., & B. 21/4, D. incl. wine 21/4, omn. 1/4 fl. ; 'S HERTOGENBOSCH. 52. Route. 367 Lion d'Or; Maison Verte), on tlie Dommel, tlie Aa, and tlie Zuid- Willems- Canal, the capital of the province of N. Brabant, and strongly fortified down to 1876, with 27,100 inhab., derives its name from Duke Godfrey of Brabant, who conferred municipal privileges on the town in 1184. — Tramway from the station to different parts of the town ; steam-tramway via Veghel to Helmond (p. 383) ; steamboat to Rotterdam (p. 252). The late-Gothic Cathedral of St. John (St. Jans Kerk), built in 1458-98, with an old tower of the 11th cent., and, to the S. of the latter, a chapel of the 13th cent., is one of the three most important mediaeval churches in Holland , the other two being the Cathedral of Utrecht and the Church of St. Nicholas atKampen, both of which it surpasses in richness of ornamentation. It has a lofty nave with double aisles, and a handsome choir flanked with chapels. The interior contains modern stained glass, a copper candelabrum of the 15th cent., a copper font, cast in 1492, carved Gothic choir-stalls of the 15th cent., a large organ, and a beautiful pulpit by Cornelis Bloemart (1566-70), with statuettes (Christ, Evangelists, saints) and reliefs from the lives of SS. John the Evangelist and Andrew. — The Church of St. Catharine contains a number of pictures from the suppressed Abbey of Tongerloo. The Gemeentelyk Museum, on the upper floor of the Raadhuis, is open every forenoon (adm. 1/2 A- 5 2-3 pers. 1 fl.). It contains an- cient plans of the town and neighbourhood, the silver seals of the chief magistrates from 1213 to 1795, valuables, coins, a few paint- ings, instruments of torture, etc. — The interesting Museum of the Provinciaal Genootschap van Kunst en Wetenschappen in Noord- brabant (open on week-days, 1-3) contains Roman, German, Franco- nian, and later antiquities, chiefly from N. Brabant, manuscripts, pictures, drawings, maps, and coins. About 10 M. from Bois-le-Duc is the magnificent chateiiu of Heeswyk (reached by steam-tramway in 1 hr.), restored in an old-fashioned style the property of Baron van den Bogaerde van ier Brugge , containing an unusually extensive collection of weapons and other interesting mediaeval and Renaissance objects. Strangers admitted on sending in their cards. Fee 1 fl. — The tramway is prolonged hence to Veghel (p. 378). From 'S Hertogenbosch to Lage-Zwaluwe, railway (traversed by quick trains also) in ^t-V/i hr. Stations Vlymen, Waalwyl', terminus of the steam-tramway from Tilburg (p. 2^^); Kaasheuvel-Capelle, Geertruiden- berg, a fortified little town on the Biesbosch (p. 389; steam-tramway to Osterhout-Breda, p. 384). — Lage-Zwaluwe, see p. 884. The train crosses theMaas near (91 V2 ^0 i^edeZ, and reaches — 95 M. Bommel, or Zaltbommel (*E6tel Gottschallc, plain), for- merly a strongly-fortified place (4000 inhab.), which was unsuc- cessfully besieged by the Spaniards in 1599 and taken by Turenne in 1672 after a gallant defence. The ramparts are now occupied by beautiful avenues. The church possesses one of the finest and loftiest towers in the country (15th cent,), and contains some ancient mural paintings. The so-called House of Maarten van Bossum 368 Route 53, UTRECHT. Hotels. (p. 376), now a district court, is a simple but graceful Renaissance "building of the 16tli cent, and contains four handsome old chimney- pieces. Various houses of the 16th and 17th cent, in the market- place and the adjoining streets, notably a house in the Water-Straat with a fine upper story (^16th cent.) and sculptures of the Oudenaarde school (p. 35). — The river is tidal up to this point. The train crosses the broad Waal. 97^ o M. Waardenburg : 100 M. Geldermalsen (p. 382), the junction for the Nymegen- Dordrecht railway, beyond which the Linge is crossed. Near (1051/.2 M.) Kuilenburg the iefc, or Lower Rhine, is tra- versed by a bridge of a single arch, 164 yds. in span. Kuilen- burg, or Culemborg, was once the seat of the counts of that name, who are frequently mentioned in the history of the Dutch War of Independence. Late-Gothic Raadhuis of 1534. About 6 M. above Kuilenborg, at the point wbere the Eromme Rhyn ('crooked Rhine') diverges from the Lek, lies Wyk-hy- Duurstede (Hotel Meyers), perhaps ih^ Batavodurum of the Romans, and a commercial town of some importance (Dorestadium) in the time of Charlemagne. Adjacent is an old villa of the Bishops of Utrecht. Steam-tramway to Sandenhurger- laan, a station on the local railway from Zeist-Driebergen to Ehenen and Arnhem (p. 375). 110 M. Schalkwyk; 113 M. Houten. The train then crosses the Kromme Rhyn. — 119 M. Utrecht, see below. 53. Utrecht. Railway Stations. Utrecht has two railway- stations: the Central Station of the Staatsspoorweg (PI. A, 3), for all trains, and the Station of the Oosterspooriceg (PI. E, 4), for trains to Amersfoort, Zutphen, 'S Hertogen- hoseh, and Dordrecht. The latter line has also a small station in the Bilt-Straat (PI. F, 1). Hotels. *HoTEL DES Pats-Bas (PI. a •, C, 2), in the Janskerkhof, of the first class, with charges to correspond: R., L., & A. 13/4-3, B. s/^i ^' 2, omn. 1/4 fl-; Hotel de l'Eueope (PI. c; B, 2), with cafe'-restaurant. and Bellevtje (PI. d; B, 2), both in the Vredenburg, charges at these: R., L., A., & B. from 2, D. incl. wine 2V4, omn. V* A- ; 'Hotel het Kasteelvan Antwerpen (PI. b; B, 2), Oude Gracht, an old Dutch house, R., L., & A. 13/4, B. 3/4, D. 13,4, omn. 1/4 fl.; De Liggende Os, at the X.W. corner of the Vredenburg (PI. A, 2), another old Dutch house, R., B., & A. 2, D. at -4 p.m. 21/2(1.; Hotel de la Station (PI. e; A, 2), R. & B. 21,4- D- 2 fl. , Hotel Central, clean, both opposite the Central Station. Restaurants. Haagsche Koffyhuis, Vredenburg 22 (PI. A, B, 2) ; Riche, Oude Gracht 63 (PI. C, 3); De Vriendschap^ Jansdam (PI. C, 2); Buitenltist, Maliebaan (p. 372); Wiener Cafi, Oude Gracht C 30 (PI. B, 2). — Wine. Ferieerda & Tieman^ Pausdam, on the Nieuwe Gracht (PI. C, D, 3); Con- tinental Bodega, Choor-Straat (PI. B, C, 3). Concerts. Tivoli, in the Singel (PI. E, 2), with a garden. Sun. 2-4 and 7.30-10, Wed. 7.30-10 (adm. 50 c.); public concerts in the LucasboU werk (PI. D, 2) and the Hoogeland Park (p. 372), in summer only. Cabs. From the stations into the town 1-2 pers. 60, 3 pers. 70, 4 pers. 80 c; per hr. for 1-4 pers. 1 fl.. each additional V4 hr. 25 c. Tramways. 1. From the Central Station by the Domkerkhof (PI. C, 3) through the town to the Oosterspoorweg Station and the Bilt-Straat Station, every 6 min. (fare 10 c). — 2. From Ledig Erf (PI. C. 6) along the Oude Gracht to the Lauwerecht. every 6 min. (10 c). — 3. From the Central Station to the Bilt-Straat Station (thence to Zeist^ see p. 375), every 1/2 hr. ^^e den- "biirg t^y-- Post?dourcinesffl Cathedral. UTRECHT. 53. Route. 369 in summer (fare 10 c). — 4. From tlie Central Station along tbe Catharyne- Singel (PI. A, B, 2-5) to Jutphaas and Vreeswyk (p. 374), every IV2 hr., in 50 min. — 5. From the Central Station to the Damlust barracks, the Merwede Canal, and Harmelen Cp. 365), five times daily. Baths. In the Nachtegaal-Straat (PI. E, 2). River-baths in the Kromme Ehyn, in summer only. Post Office, at the back of the cathedral, open 5.30 a.m. to 9.45 p.m. (Sun. 8.30-1.30). — Telegraph Offices, in the Wester-Straat (PI. A, 3) and in the Paushuize (p. 371; closed on Sun.). Utrecht, the capital of tlie Dutch province of that name, with 94,300 inhah. (V3 Rom. Cath.), the Trajectum ad Rhenum (ford of the Rhine) of the Romans, subsequently called Wiltaburg by the Frisians and Franks, is one of the most ancient towns in the Nether- lands. Dagobert, king of the E. Franks (d. 638), founded here the first church in the territory of the Frisians, whose bishop St. Willebrordus became in 696. The archbishops of Utrecht were among the most powerful of mediaeval prelates, and the town was celebrated at an early period for the beauty of its churches. It first belonged to Lorraine, and then to the German Empire, and was frequently the residence of the emperors. The Emp. Conrad II. died here in 1039, and the Emp. Henry V., the last of the powerful Salic line, in 1125, and both were interred in the cathedral of Spires. The Emp. Charles V. erected the Vredenhurg here after 1528 in order to keep the citizens in check, but it was destroyed in 1577 on the outbreak of the War of Independence. The site of the castle, near the station, is still called the Vredenhurg. Adrian Floriszoon Boei/ens, the tutor of Charles V., one of the most pious and learned men of his age, afterwards Pope Adrian VI. , was born at "Utrecht in 1459. In 1579 the Union of the seven provinces of Holland, Zeeland, Utrecht, Guelders, Over-Yssel, Friesland, and Groningen, whereby the independence of the ^Netherlands was established, was concluded in the Hall of the Academy of Utrecht under the presidency of Count John of Nassau, brother of William the Silent. The States General were in the habit of assembling here from that date down to 1593, when the seat of government was trans- ferred to the Hague. The celebrated Peace of Utrecht, which terminated the Spanish War of Succession, was concluded here on 11th April, 1713. At Utrecht the Rhine divides into two branches , one of which, named the * Old Rhine', falls into the North Sea near Katwyk (p. 295), while the other , called the Vecht , empties itself into the Zuider- zee near Muiden (p. 346). The town is intersected by two canals, the Oude and Nieuwe Gracht, which flow far below the level of the adjoining houses. Some of the rooms and vaults below the wharfs are occupied as dwellings. Picturesque street - vistas, particularly from the Yiebrug and Smeebrug, and in the Vischmarkt. The *Catliedral (PL C, 3), a spacious cruciform edifice in the Gothic style, dedicated to St. Martin , was erected in 1254-67 by Bishop Vianden on the site of the original church, which was founded by St. Willebrordus (see above) about 720, and rebuilt by Bishop Adelbold in 1015. In consequence of a violent hurricane on 1st Aug., 1674, the nave fell in, and as it was never re-erected, a wide interval has been left between the choir, with the transept, and the W. tower. When complete it was one of the finest and largest churches in Holland (comp. p. xxxvii). The Interior (the sacristan lives at the N.E. corner of the church ; comp. p. xxvi), which is 115 ft. in height, and 30 ft. in width, is disfigured Baedeker's Belgium and Holland. 1 th Edit. 24 370 Route 63. DTRECHT. University. by pews, so that the impression produced by this venerable Gothic relic with its eighteen slender columns is almost entirely destroyed. The monument of Admiral van Gent, who fell in 16(2 at the naval battle of Soulsbai, was executed in black and white marble by Rombout Vevhulst in 1676. The monuments of Bishops Guy of HainauU (d. 1317) and George van Egmont (d. 1559) are also interesting. The extensive vaults beneath the choir contain the hearts of the German Emperors Conrad II. and Henry V., who died at Utrecht. The Cathedral Tower , formerly 364 ft. in height , now 338 ft. only, erected in 1321-82, having heen begun by the architect Jan ten Doem of Hainault, rests on a handsome vaulted passage 36 ft. in height. It is square in form , with a double superstructure , of which the upper is octagonal and open. The chimes consist of 42 bells, one of which, the St. Salvator, adorned with an image of the Saviour, was cast in the 15th cent, and weighs 81/2 tons. A flight of 120 steps ascends to the dwelling of the sacristan (where the tariff for the ascent is exhibited: 1-2 pers. 25 c, ; for a larger party, 10 c. each), 200 more to the gallery, and 138 thence to the platform. The view embraces almost the whole of Holland, and part of Guelders and N. Brabant. The fine Gothic ^Cloisters adjoining the choir on the S., re- cently restored by Cuypers , connect the cathedral with the Uni- versity. In the S.E. corner of the Domkerkhof a bronze statue of Count John of Nassau (p. 369), by Stracke, was erected in 1883. The University (PI. C, 3) was founded in 1636, and has long enjoyed a high reputation (37 professors and about 700 students). It was enlarged in 1894 by a building in the early Dutch Renais- sance style, from designs by Gugel and Nieuwenhuis (handsome hall with ceiling-paintings by Prof. Sturm and stained-glass windows). The Aula, in the Gothic style, originally the chapter-house of the cathedral, was restored in 1879 by Cuypers. The Senate Room con- tains portraits of professors, including two ascribed to Frans Hals and Rembrandt. Other academical institutions are the Museum of Natural History (Janskerkhof 3), with preparations in wax by Dr. Koning , and the Physical and Physiological Laboratories. The St. Pieterskerk (PL D, 3), to the E. of the cathedral, orig- inally a flat-roofed church, supported by columns, was founded in 1039, but has been frequently renewed; the curious old crypt with its columns is still preserved. The church is now used by a Walloon congregation. The St. Janskerk (PL C, 2), to the N. of the cathedral, in the Romanesque style (1050), with a late-Gothic choir of -1539, con- tairs several monuments of little merit. Adjacent is the Anatomical Institute of the University (PI. C, 2). — The modern St. Willi- brorduskerk, in the adjacent Anna-Straat, is gorgeously embellished with painting and stained glass. The St. Jacobskerk (PL B, 1), founded in 1173 and restored in 1882, contains the monument of Pastor Huibert Duifhuis (d. 1581 ; below the organ). Archiepisc. Museum. UTRECHT. 53. Route. 37 1 The University Library (PI. C, D, 1, 2) occupies the palace huilt for King Louis Napoleon in 1807. It contains 110,000 vols, and 1500 MSS., including a psalter of the 9th cent. , embellished with miniatures, and several others of great value. The reading- room is open on \veek-days from 11 to 4 (during the vacations 1-3), on Sun. from 10 to 3. The Paushuize (pope's house ; PI. D, 3), on the Nieuwe Gracht, recalls by its name Pope Adrian YI. (p. 369), who built it in 1517 when Provost of St. Salvator. It now contains several public of- fices (PI. 15), including a telegraph-office. On the gable is a fine statue of the Saviour (16th cent). The *Archiepiscopal Museum iAartsbisschoppelyk Museum; PI. D, 3), Nieuwe Gracht 20, affords an admirable illustration of all the branches of sacred art practised in the Netherlands. Ad- mission daily, except Sun. and holidays, 10-5; 50 c. The collection is arranged in a number of small rooms. The pictures are chiefly by unknown Dutch or Flemish masters of the 15-i7th centuries. Room I. On the entrance-wall are works of the Early Cologne School and on the right are a few old paintings by Sienese Masters. By the window are some costly bindings for Gospels, of the ll-13th centuries. — Room II: To the left, Embroidery for ecclesiastical vestments, 15-16th cent. ; in the middle, old printed Bibles; by the exit, two portraits attributed to/a« van Scorel (see below). — Room HI: Embroideries of thel5-16th cent.; opposite the windows, Four pilgrims in the crypt of the church at Bethlehem, a large picture of the i6th cent. ; in the glass-cases are chalices, ciboria, and other ecclesiastical vessels; Byzantine Madonna of the 11th cent, and other carvings in ivory. — Room IV. Sculptures. Christ blessing little children, a painting by TTerner van den Valckert (1620). — We now ascend to the tipper floor. Room V. Ecclesiastical vestments, brocades from Ghent and Utrecht, and other textile fabrics of the 13-16th centuries. — Room VI. French, Dutch, and Venetian lace. In the Runnebaau (PL C, 3), opposite the Archiepiscopal Muse- um, is the ioxraer House of the Teutonic Order (entrance by the gate to the left). The assembly-hall contains the portraits of all com- manders of the district of Utrecht. Admission on written applica- tion to the secretary, Baron van Lynden, Hamburger-Straat 23. The Church of St. Catharine (PI. C, D, 4), the Roman Catholic archiepiscopal cathedral, in the adjoining Catharynesteeg, a late- Gothic building of 1524, was restored in 1880 from plans by Van Brink. The interior has been decorated with polychrome ornamenta- tion, and contains a screen by Mengelberg of Utrecht. The Museum Kunstliefde, a small picture-gallery in the upper floor of the building of Arts and Sciences (PI. B, 3), Mariaplaats 24, contains a number of works by early Utrecht masters, the chief of whom was Jan van Scorel, Schoorl, or Schooreel (1495-1562), one of the first Dutch painters who visited Italy. Exhibitions of modern paintings are sometimes held here, during which the ancient works are inaccessible. Admission daily, 25 c.; Sun. and holidays 1-4, free. The catalogue, by De Tries and Bredlus, contains facsimiles of the signatures and coats-of-arms (IY2 A-)- 24* 372 Route 53. UTRECHT. Maliehaan. Principal pictures : *-7-10. Jan van Scorel , Portraits (p. xliv) of 38 citizens and ecclesiastics of Utrecht who made a pilgrimage together to Jerusalem (full of individuality; 1525) -, "61. Scorel, Virgin and Child, altar-piece from the chapel of the Holy Cross Hospital ; Joachim WUewaal, Vegetable-seller; 65. Paul Moreelse (pupil of Jlierevelt), Portrait of a woman ; 144. Hendrik Goltzius. Ecce Homo ; 74. Roeland Savery^ Flowers ; 22. /. C. Dvoochsloot. Waw of the goose-market and town-hall of Utrecht at the beginning of the 17th cent. ; 16. Abr. Bloemaert . Adoration of the 3Iagi; Unknown Artist^ Portrait of a gentleman of the 16th cent.: J. van Eaenshergen^ Portrait of a child; *59. Thos. de Keyser , Portrait of a woman with two children: 53. G. Bonthorst, Death of Seneca, St. Peter; 47. Barih. van der Heist, Holy Family, one of the few pictures of this artist other than portraits: Ferd. Bol, Lady in a hunting-dress; Wappevs, Burgomaster van der Werf at the siege of Leyden. The Mint {'S Ryks Munt; PI. B, 2), where the money current in Holland and its E. Indian colonies is coined , contains Dutch coins and medals, dies, etc., both ancient and modern. The Museum van Kunstnyverheid, Wittevrouw-Kade 6a, near the Wittevrouwenhrug (PI. D, 1), founded in 1884, contains art- industrial collections, and is open on Sun., Wed., and Sat.. 1-4 (25 c., Sun. free). The Fleshers Hall (PI. C, 2], of 1637, in the Yoor-Straat, and various timher houses in the neighbourhood and in the Neude (PI. B, C, 2), are architecturally interesting. On the Oude Gracht, near the Hotel het Kasteel van Antwerpen (p. 368) and the Viebrug (p. 369), is the old chateau of Oudaen (PI. B, 2), a well-preserved Gothic building of the 14th cent., used since 1759 as a Home for the Aged (visitors admitted on week- days). — Fastened to a chain on the house No. 200, in the S. part of the Oude Gracht, is a Germanic Sacrificial Stone ('de gesloten steen'), vrhich is said to have been secured by the citizens on this position after it had been tossed by the devil across the nevely-dug canal, in mockery of its narrowness. The Ramparts have been converted into pleasant promenades, everywhere bounded by flowing vrater. On the E. side of the town is the famous Maliehaan (PI. E, F, 2, 3), a triple avenue of lime- trees, more than V2 M. in length, which was spared by the French trmies in 1672-73 at the express command of Louis XFV". Some of the old trees have, however, been replaced by young ones, and the general eflFect is now apt to be disappointing. It is approached by the Maliebrug (PI. D,4), and is flanked by handsome houses. About halfway along the avenues is the end of the Nachtegaal-Straat, traversed by the tramway uniting the railway-stations. At the N.E. end of the Maliebaan, about 8 min, walk from the Maliebrug, we cross the railway to the right and reach the Hoogeland Park (PI. F, 1, 2), near which is the new museum. The *Antiquarian Museum [Museum van Oudheden; PI. F, 2) occupies a building in the Greek style, originally erected as a private house 1825 by Suys, but recently altered for its present purpose and adorned with coloured ornaments after antique patterns. Adm. Antiquar. Museum. UTRECHT. 53. Route. 373 daily 10-4; 10 c. , Sun. and Wed. 1-4 free; detailed catalogue 13/4 fl. ; small illustrated guide 30 c. Ground Flook. Room I & II. Roman and Germanic Antiquities^, col- lected by the Art and Science Society of Utrecht, chiefly from the neigh- bouring Vechten , once the site of a Roman camp. Roman tombstone found at Utrecht in 1740. Here also is a collection bequeathed to the town by Mr. Bosch van Oud- Amelisweerd, including a terracotta figure of a dwarf with a scroll. — Room III. Ecclesiastical Antiquities. Stone- coffin of the 9th century. — The following rooms contain Secular Anti- quities. Room IV. Carved wood chimney-piece (16th cent.); frieze of a chimney-piece with stone figures; fragments of two facades (12th and 13th cent.). — Room V. Stone figures from the facades of ancient houses and from tlie town-fortifications. — Room VI. Stone chimney-piece with painted Renaissance ornaments; frieze of a chimney-piece, with early- Renaissance figures and ornaments. — Room VII. Chimney-piece of the 16th cent. ; wrought-iron railing (end of iTth cent.). FiEST Floor. Room I. Upper part of a gable in the early-Renais- sance style, with a statue of Charles V.^ old views of Utrecht. — Room II. Dies for coins and medals of Utrecht ; goldsmiths' marks and names (on plates of copper); florid frame in the style of Louis XV. — Room III is arranged in the style of about 1500; enamelled slabs on the floor (ca. 1350); Gothic chimney-piece. Iron-mounted cabinet and doors , from various convents. Seals. View of Utrecht about 1400 (from ancient paintings). — Room IV, arranged in the style of about 1600. Early-Renaissance gallery from the Buvir-Kerk; wooden mantel-piece; bench; cabinet; large stone- ware jug from Raeren ; wooden reading-desk ; carved panelling from a peasanfs house. — Room V, arranged in the style of about 1700. Ela- borate chimney-piece in the style of Louis XIV. Ceiling- paintings and embossed gilt-leather hangings from private houses. Dutch 'Doirs house of 1680, with miniature portraits by Afoucheron^ etc. Ivory carvings, etc. Richly carved table on which the peace of Utrecht is said to have been signed (1713). French holster-pistol, with rich Renaissance ornamentation. Marble bust by R. Verhulst. — Room VI, arranged in the style of about 1750. German hangings, painted in imitation of Gobelin tapestry. — Room VII, arranged in the style of 1791. Silk hangings. Large collection of Utrecht coins and medals. — Rooms VIII-X. Ecclesiastical Antiquities. In R. VIII is a stained-glass window by R. van Zyll (1599) from the church of St. James. In Room IX : Relief of John the Baptist (11th cent.) ; sta- tues of SS. Eligius, Catharine, and Martin (14-15th cent.); tomb-relief of a canon of St. Mary's (15th cent.); Gothic wooden consoles from convents in Utrecht ; casts of "monuments in Utrecht churches ; fragment of a ceiling painting (ca. 1500), from the convent of St. Agnes. In Room X (corner- room) : Tomb of a knight (14th cent.) ; two capitals of columns (11th cent.) ; tomb-slabs of two canons of St. Mary's (15th cent.) ; wooden consoles from the convent of St. Jerome; fragments of stained glass from the cathedral; fragment of the facade of the old Stadhuis (early-Renaissance; before 1547). Second Floor. Models of the cathedral and of several former build- ings in Utrecht. Wall-hangings in the 'Empire style'. Environs. The country for many miles around Utrecht is attractive, heing studded with numerous mansions, parks, and gardens , and fertilised hy the ramifications of the Rhine and a number of canals. The finest of these seats is the chateau of Soestdyk^ 12 M. to the N. of Utrecht, near the railway-station of Baarn [p. 355), presented hy the diet in 1816 to the Prince of Orange (afterwards King William II. , d. 1849), in recognition of his bravery at the Battle of Waterloo, which is commemorated by a handsome monument in the avenue. It now belongs to the queen. Opposite the chateau is the Hotel Ubblnk. The well-kept wood 374 Route 53. UTRECHT. (Baarnsche or Soestdyksche Bosch) is open to the puWic. — Another excursion may be taken by Zeist [p. 375) and Driebergen to (6 M.) Doom (tramway), or to Amersfoort fp. 355), Eilversum (p. 363), Nieuwersluis (p. 363), etc. Tramway (p. 369) from Utreclit via Jutphaas (also steamboat 5 times daily from the Jeremiebrug at Utrecht, PLC, 6) to Vreeswyk, where the large locks of the canal uniting Amsterdam with the Rhine (de Keulsche Vaart) may be inspected. A bridge of boats connects the village with Tianen (Hof van Brederode-, Hotel de Roos), supposed to be the Fatium Dianae of Ptolemy. The church contains the tomb of Reinoud van Brederode (d. 1556), the friend of William of Orange, an important work perhaps by Jacob Colyn de INole of Utrecht. ■Utrecht is the principal seat of the Jassexists , a sect of Roman Catholics who call themselves the Church of Utrecht^ and who now exist almost exclusively in Holland. The founder of the sect was Bishop Jan- senius of Ypres (d. 1638 5 p. 31), whose five theses on the necessity of di- vine grace in accordance with the tenets of St. Augustine (published posthumously in a book termed '■Augustinus") were condemned by a bull of Alexander VII. in 1656, at the instigation of the Jesuits, as heretical. The adherents of the bishop refused to recognise this bull, thus de facto separating themselves from the Church of Rome. The sect was formerly not uncommon in France and Brabant, but was suppressed in the former country by a bull of Clement XI. in 1713, termed '■ Uiiigenitus'' , to which the French government gave effect. The Dutch branch of the sect, how- ever, continued to adhere to their peculiar doctrines. After various dis- putes with the court of Rome, a provincial synod was held at Utrecht in 1763 with a view to effect a compromise. According to the resolutions of that assembly the 'Old Roman Ca- tholics' (Roomsche Katholyken der oude Klerezy), as the Jansenists style themselves, do not desire to renounce their allegiance to the Pope and the Church of Rome. But (1) they reject the constitution of Alexander VII. of 1656, on the ground that the five theses which it condemns are not truly to be found in the writings of Jansenius as alleged. (2) They re- pudiate the bull '• Unigenitus\ and appeal from it to a general Council, and they adhere to the Augustine doctrine and its strict code of morality. (3) They insist on the right of chapters of cathedrals to elect their own bishops, and the right of bishops to consecrate other bishops, without the confirmation of the Pope as required by Gregory VII. The Archiepiscopal See of Utrecht comprises three parishes at Utrecht, and thirteen in other towns and villages of Holland. To the Episcopal Diocese of Haarlem belong one parish at Amsterdam, and seven in other parts of Holland. A Jansenist community also exists at Kordstrand in Denmark. At Amersfoort (p. 355) there is a seminary connected with this church. In all there are about 76C0 Jansenists in Holland. 54. From Utrecht and Amhem to Cologne via Emmerich and Oberhausen. 136 or 101 M. Express from Utrecht in 41 2 hrs. (fares 12 fl. 10, 9 fl. 10 c.) ; from Amhem in 31/2 brs. (fares 9 11., 6 fl. 7u c). Dutch Railway to Em- merich, where the German custom-house examination takes place; thence Prussian Railway. In the reverse direction Dutch custom-house examin- ation at Zevenaar. The German railways ob.-^erve 'Central Europe' time, i.e. 1 hr. in advance of Dutch railway time. — From Amsterdam to Cologne by this route, express in 51/3 brs. (fares 11 fl. 40, S.60. 5.95 c); from Rotter- dam in 51/2 hrs. (fares 11 fl. 48. 8.95, 5.95 c): from the Hague in 6V2 hrs. (fares 12 fl. 15, 9.50. 6.40 c). ' The Steamboat Route on the Rhine from Rotterdam via Arnhem to Cologne (18 hrs. ; fares 5 fl. 30, 3 fl. 50 c), though offering some points of interest, is on the whole tedious. OOSTERBEEK. 5J. Route. 375 Utrecht, see p. 368. The train crosses the canal (Vaartsche Rhyn) connecting Utrecht with the Lek, or main branch of the Rhine. 972 ^I- Zeist-Driebergen, the former to the left, the latter to the right of the railway (steam-tramway to Arnhem, seei?. 376; tramway to Utrecht, see p. 368). Zeist is the seat of a Moravian settlement fahout 260 members), established here in 1746, with which a good school is connected. The community resides in a pile of contiguous buildings, possessing many of their goods in common, and strictly observing the j)recepts of their sect. They somewhat resemble the Quakers of England, and are remarkable for the purity and simpli- city of their lives. Married women, widows, and young girls are dis- tinguished by a difference of costume. The environs are carefully cultivated. Gardens, orchards, plantations, corn-fields, pastures, and villas are passed in rapid succession. During the harvest the corn is stacked in a peculiar manner, and protected by roofs. 13 M. Maarshergen ; 21 M. Veenendaal, noted for its honey (to Nymegen and to Amersfoort, see p. 382). — 25^/2 M. Ede. From Ede a steam-tramway runs to Wageningen (Hotel De Wereld), an old town with 7600 inliab., IV2 M. to the S., connected with the Rhine \)\ a short canal. It is the seat of an agricultural institution, ''S Ryks Land- bouwschool, with an experimental station and an agricultural collection. The Grelbe (Hotel Grebbe, well spoken of), between Wageningen aud Rbenen (p. 382), affords pleasant wood-walks. On the river bank, about halfway between the two places, rises the Eeimenberg, an eminence com- manding an extensive view over the Veluwe. A bench at the summit, called the Koningstaf el, derives its name from the ElectorPalatine Frederick, King of Bohemia, who, having been banished from his dominions after the Battle of the White Hill, near Prague, in 1620, sought an asylum and lived in retirement atRhenen. Some of the events in his romantic career are well described by G-. P. R. James in his 'Heidelberg'. Near (30 M.) Wolfhezen begins an extensive heath stretching to the Zuiderzee. 33 M. Oosterbeek (Hotel De Doornenkamp, Hotel Schoonord, etc.), with numerous villas, is also a station on the steam-tramway to Driebergen and Zeist mentioned at p. 376. Near it are the hill of Duno, a good point of view, and the old chateau of Doorwerth, with its double towers. As Arnhem is approached the train commands several picturesque glimpses of the Rhine on the right, and of Sonsbeek (p. 377) on the left. The fertile district to the right, enclosed by several branches of the Rhine, is known as the Betuwe or 'good island', while the sandy tract to theN., between Arnhem aud the Zuiderzee, is called the Veluwe, or 'barren island'. 35 M. Arnhem. — Hotels. 'Bellevue(P1. d),on a wooded eminence on the W. side of the town, commanding a line view of the Betuwe and suitable for a prolonged stay, R. & L. 2-iO fl., A. 25-40 c. D. 21/2, pens. 6, board 4 ll., omn. 40 c. •■, ='H6tel de Zox (du Soleil; PI. a), near the bridge- of-boats, outside the town on the N.W. side, and the nearest to the station and the pier of the Netherlands Steamboiit Co., R. IV-.' fl., L. 30, A. 25, B. 75 c, D. 2 fl. i *des Pays-Bas (PI. b), in Ihe Groote Blarkt, not far from the pier of the Cologne and Diisseldorf Steamboat Co., R., L., Se&?s (?afe (exterior front 1642), at the end of the Groote Markt, has been preserved. Arnhem, one of the most attractive towns in Holland, is a favourite residence of Dutch 'nabobs' from the East Indies. Handsome new buildings are springing up on all sides. Leaving the station and bearing to the left, we pass through several fine new streets and soon reach the Groote Markt, in which the Groote Kerk, with its conspicuous tower, and the Stad- huis are situated. The choir of the late-Gothic Groote Kerk (PI. 1 ; sacristan lives on the N. side, fee 25 c), commenced in 1452, contains the monument of Charles van Egmont, Duke of Guelders (d. 1538), the indefatigable opponent of the Emp. Charles V., a recumbent mail-clad figure in white marble, on a sarcophagus of black and white marble , adorned with reliefs of the Apostles, etc. Above, on the N. wall of the choir, is the kneeling figure of the Duke beneath a wooden canopy, covered with the suit of armour worn by him during his life-time. In the ambulatory is the elegant memorial tablet of the chancellor Joost Sasbout (d. 1 546), by Jacob Colyn. The large organ was built in 1769; performances every fortnight on Tues. 2-4 p.m. (adm. free). The tower, 318 ft. in height, contains a large chime of 45 bells. — To the E. of the church rises the Stadhuis (PL 2), erected at the end of the 15th cent, as a palace for Maarten van Rossum, general of Duke Charles of Guelders, modernized and converted to its present use in 1830. It is popularly known as the 4miom IGElcrfa o sit rbetlc^ "Wac^niT n^j PTi iM^pfS^^— *Tie;9vn?I'Ui: 5 pioojapaiia:! to Cologne. ARNHEM. 54. Route. 377 Duivelshuis, from its quaint sculptural decorations. — The public Library^ behind the Town Hall, contains mainly theological, histori- cal, and legal works. The Museum van Oudheden en Kunst (adm. on "Wed. 2-4, free ; in summer also on Sun., 11.30-1.30), also in the Markt, contains seals, coins, portraits, architectural models, etc. The gems of the collection are a carved ivory diptych of the 13th cent., forming the binding of a manuscript copy of the Gospels (Evangeliarium) of the Mthcent., from the Bethlehem Monastery near Doetinchem, and seven silver guild-cups of the 17-18th centuries. On the S. side of the Markt is the Gouvernementsgebouw, oc- cupied by the provincial government and erected on the site of the former Prinsenhof, or palace of the Dukes of Guelders. The Ryk- saTchief, in the Eusebiusbinnen Singel, was erected in 1880 in stone and iron. — The House of Messrs. Hesselinck (now a wine- house), of the middle of the 17th cent., is architecturally interesting. It contains a small collection of Spanish antiquities (connoisseurs admitted ; fee). The Roman Catholic Church of St. Walburga (PI. 3), a Gothic structure of the 14th cent., to which the St. Walburg-Straat leads to the right (S.) of the Stadhuis, has two towers and contains a modern carved altar and a handsome Gothic pulpit. Environs. The district around Arnhem is the most picturesque in Holland. The grounds of many of the numerous country-seats in the vicinity are open to visitors. The inns are generally good. — About 3/4 M. to the N. is Sonsbeek, the charming seat of Baron van Heeckeren, where a Guelders provincial exhibition is to take place in 1898. The Belvedere Tower (100 steps) commands a beautiful view of the park and the fertile Betuwe as far as the Eltener Berg and the distant heights of Cleve. Immediately below the town rises the Reeberg, an eminence with extensive pleasure-grounds and a casino ('Buitensocieteit'), where in summer on Sun. and Wed. evenings concerts are given (introduc- tion by a member required ; tramway-station). Higher up is the country-residence of Heyenoord, adjoining which there are beauti- ful walks through the woods in all directions, provided with benches at intervals. In the opposite direction, to the E. of Arnhem, rises a range of heights, along the base of which runs the *Velp Road (to Zut- phen). Carriage, see p. 376. About 21/4 M. from Arnhem, on the left, is Klarenbeek , where, from the 'Steenen Tafel' (stone table), a fine view of the Rhine Valley is obtained. The Hospital for the soldiers of the colonial army at Bronbeek, close to Klaren- beek , endowed by William III. , is worth visiting ; it contains a number of old cannon and other weapons captured in Acheen (ad- mission 50 c). Farther on is the village of Velp (Hotel Heeren- 378 Route 54. EMMERICH. logement, etc.), consisting almost entirely of country-residences (railway-station, see p. 362; tramway toArnliem25 c. ; tramway to Dieren, see p. 362). About 1 M. to the N. is the estate of Rozen- daal, with fine trees, lakes, and fountains (fee 72^-5 * party Ifl.); adjacent is the Hotel op den Berg. Other pleasant resorts are the chateau of Biljoen, built in 1530 by Duke Charles of Guelders, Beefc/iw?2cn(*H6tel Garni, pens. 3^0 A-)? Rhederoord, and. Middachten (fine avenue of beeches). From Arnliein to Zutphen (Salzbergen), see R. 49; to Nymegen. see p. 383. The next stations are Wtittrvoort and JDuiven. — 44 M. Zeven- aar, the frontier-station of Holland and junction of a line via Doe- tinchem and Ruurlo to Winterswyk (p. 363). 49 M. Elten is the frontier-station of Prussia. 55 M. Emmerich (Hofvon Holland ; Hotel Royal; Hotel Bahn- hof), on the Rhine, is a clean, Dutch-looking town with 9700 in- habitants. At the upper end rises the Gothic tower of the church of St. Aldegonde (1283); at the lower end is the Miinster, a church in the transitional style of the ll-12th cent., with an interesting crypt. Next stations Empel and Wesel, a strongly fortified town at the influx of the Lippe into the Rhine. A branch-line diverges here to Bocholt and (24 M.) Winterswyk (p. 363). 921/2 M. Ohev'h&xisen.fHolldndischer Ho f ; Rail. Restaurant), on the Ruhr, is the junction for Ruhrort and for the Cologne-Minden railway. — Hence to — 136 M. Cologne (1 hr. by express-train), via Diisseldorf, see Baedekers Rhine. 55. From Cologne to Amsterdam and Rotterdam fHoeJ; van Holland) via Cleve and Nymegen. 154 or 167 M. Express from Colosne to Xnmegen ■ 92 M.. in 81/4 hi'S. (fares 12 JL 9 M 10 pf., 6 Ji); to (154 M.) Amsterdam in 51/4 hrs. (19 M, UJl 30, 9 ^ 90 pf.); to (167 M.) Rotterdam in 61/2 hrs. (19 Ji, 14 Jl SO, 9 Jl 90 pf.). Prussian Eailway to Cleve ; thence Dutch Jttailway. Dutch custom-house at Kymegen ; German at Cranenburg. Cologne , see Batdeker's Rhine. — Thence to Cleve , express in 21/2 hrs., via Neuss, Crefeld, and Goch. At Goch a line (on which the express trains between Berlin and London via Flushing run) diverges to Gennep, Beugen. Uden, Yeghel (p. 367), and (63 M., in 4 hrs.) Boxtel (p. 384). 74 M. Cleve. — Hotels. *Bai>hotel & Hotel Stircm, in the Thier- garten, to the W. of the town, with large garden; *Prinzenhof, on a hill to the S.E. of the town, with a large park, under the same management; *K.OBBERS, in the Thiergarten; -Matwald, on the hill to the S.E. — "Loock, opposite the po^t-office. *Holtzem, near the castle, plainer. Beer. Lampe, Cavarinor-Stratit; Dentscher Kaiser; Campari; Grosser Kurfiir.it, with a stucco ceiling of 1677. Visitors'" Tax for a stay of more than a week, 5 J'/. Cleve, Dutch Kleef, once the capital of a duchy of that name, CLEVE. 65. Route. 379 with 10,400 iiihab., is cliarmingly situated on three hills which form part of a wooded range, and is much frequented as a summer- residence hy Dutch families. On an abrupt and picturesque eminence in the middle of the town rises the oli Schloss or Schwanenburg (the court of which con- tains a Roman altar found in the neighbourhood), with the *Schwa- nenthurm ('swan's tower'), 184 ft. in height (fine view). The latter was erected by Adolph I. in 1439, on the site of an ancient tower supposed to have been built by Csesar, In the market-place is the Lohengrin Monument, erected in 1882 to commemorate the legend of the Knight of the Swan, the scene of which is laid at Cleve. On the way to the Schloss rises a modern monument to John Sigismund, Elector of Brandenburg, who took possession of the Duchy of Cleve in 1609. — The Rathhaus contains a few Roman bronzes. The *Stiftskirche , an imposing brick edifice , contains several monuments of Counts and Dukes of Cleve (the finest that of Adolph VI., d. 1394), and one of Margaretha von Berg (d. 1425). To the S.E. lies the Prinzenhof. built in 1644 by Maurice of Orange-Siegen, when stadtholder of the duchy of Cleve. — The hills extend thence as far as (3 M.) ^Berg en DaV, with the monu- ment of Prince Maurice (d. 1679), restored in 1811 by Napoleon I. (adjacent a *Restaurant). The hills to the W., with the pleasant Thiergarten, laid out as a park in 1652, extend beside the road and railway as far as Nymegen. — The tower on the Clever Berg (100 ft.), to the S. of the Thiergarten, commands one of the finest views on the Lower Rhine. Feom Cleve to Zevenaar, 11 M., railway in 1 lir. (fares 2JI&), 2 M 10, 1 Ji 40 pf.), crossing the Rhine by means of a steam-ferry and passing (6 M.) Elten Qi. 378). Zevenaav , see p. 378. — To the W. of the railway lies the village of Schenkenschanz, the name of which recalls the forti- fications (Schanz) Inult in 1586 by Martin Schenk of Nideggen, at the point where the Rhine formerly divided into the Waal and the Rhine. At Cleve begins the Dutch Railway. — 77 M. Nutterden. 80 M. Cranenhurg, last station in Prussia. 84 M. Groesheek, seat of the Dutch custom-house. 92 M. Nymegen. — HoteLs. *Keizek Karl, Keizer Karlsplein (PI. 7), R., L., A., & B. from 2% D.. at 5.30 p.m., 2 fl., omn. 25 c. ; -Hotel Aeiens, Priem-Straat, near the flying bridge across the Waal, a commercial house with moderate charges, R., L., & A. I1/2, B. 3/4, de'j. 1, D. 2, pens. 31/2, omn. 1/4 fl. •, Mulder (formerly Boggia). Lange Burcht-Straat 43, R., L., & A. 11/4-272, B- V-15 ^- IV*' pens. 3-4. omn. 1/4 A. — Hotel Bellevce. Spoor- S traat, vi'ith cafe'; Oeanje Hotel, near the rail, station, unpretend- ing. — Omnibus from the station to the town, 20 c. — The *H6tel Berg EN Dal (see p. 381), 31/2 M. to the E. of Nymegen (steam-tramway from the station), is much frequented in summer: R., L., A. from 2 fl., B. 60 c, dej. 1, pens, from 31/2 fl. j good table-d'hote (5 p.m., 2 fl.) and restaurant. Cafes. "^Suisse, Burcht-Straat, with a winter-garden; Hamerslag^ in the market-place; Helvetia., Belleviie. Spoor-Straati Buppen, Yalkhof. — The Societeit Burgerlust (p. 381) is generally open on polite application. 380 Route 55. NYMEGEN. From Cologne Baths. In the Waal, near the flying bridge at Lent (p. 382). Warm Baths near the Kronenburg Park. Steam Tramway to JBeek (p. 332), to Serg en Dal (p. 381), and to Ifeer- iosch (p. ;:i&2). Steamboats to Aynhem, Tiel, and Rotterdam, once or twice daily. Nymegen, almost invariably pronounced xY/mtrcgfen, with 39,500 inhab. (2/4 Rom. Cath.), occupies a site on an ampbitheatxe of seven hills, rising from the left bank of the Waal. In the Carlovingian epoch it was frequently the residence of the emperors ; subsequently it became a free imperial town and a member of the Hanseatic League, and in 1579 it joined the Union of Utrecht (p. 369). It was captured by the Spaniards in 1685, and was retaken by Maurice of Orange in 1591. The French under Turenne occupied the town in 1672, but evacuated it at the peace of Nymegen. In 1877-84 the old fortifications encircling the town were con- verted into a broad promenade. To the W., near the station, lies the Kronenburg Park, containing one of the sixteen towers that strengthened the old town-walls. Almost in the centre of the town rises the Groote Kerk or Church of St. Stephen (PI. 1), a Gothic edifice, begun in 1272 and substant- ially completed in the 14th and 15th cent., though there are a few modern additions. The barrel vaulting of the nave, supported by 35 slender pillars, replaces a former and more strictly Gothic pointed vaulting. The choir contains the Monument of Catherine of Bourbon (d. 1469), wife of Adolphus, Duke of Guelders, with a 'brass' bearing the figure of the duchess. Below are representations of the Apostles and sixteen coats-of-arms of the House of Bourbon. The organ is a fine instrument (public performance every Tuesday in summer, 3-4 p.m.). The tower, which had suffered seriously from fire and bombardment, was renewed in 1593 in the Renais- sance style ; the top commands a fine view (key kept by the cas- tellan). On the old Grammar School (1544), near the churchyard, are some mutilated sculptures. Through the Kerkboog we descend hence to the E. to the Groote Markt (PI. 2) , with the old Weigh House and Fleshers' Hall. The building, which is detached on three sides, was probably built in 1612 by H. de Keyset, and renewed in 1885. — Farther on, in the Korte Burcht-Straat, stands the — *Stadhuis (PI. 3), erected in the Renaissance style in 1554, and judiciously restored, with statues of German monarchs on the facade. The Vestibcle contains raised seats adorned with beautiful carving (by Gziert van Dulcken), on which the magistrates formerly sat in criminal cases (the Yorflure of the Butch town-halls were formerly used as the seat of municipal tribunals, ' Fie?'«cAaare'), and an interesting clock of 1597 (restored). The 'Riddle of Nymegen' is a picture representing a com- plicated relationship of the year 1609. — The Interior possesses a few pic- tures, among which are the old chateau of Valkhof (see p. 381) by Jan von Goyen, and portraits of the ambassadors who here signed in 1678 the Peace of Nymegen between Louis XIV., the States General, and Spain. Several of the rooms are hung with old tapestry. ^oitaZ -lai'tM- to Rotterdam. NYMEGEN. 55. Route. 381 The town-hall also containa an interesting Museum (adm. 25 c. ; cata- logue 50 c.)- In the first room are medieeval and modern objects, among which are the silver-mounted drinking-horn of the Skippers' Guild; a *Nau- tilus Cup (No. 131) of 1580 in silver repoussd work, 1 ft. high ; missals of the Bakers' Guild ; a vs^ooden tun, used for the public punishment of adulterers ; the sword with which Counts Egmont and Hoorn are alleged to have been executed (p. 103) 5 coins of Nymegen; and ancient MSS. and documents. The second room contains prehistoric, Germanic, and Roman antiquities, all discovered in the vicinity of Nymegen, and most of them during the recent levelling of the fortifications. Among them are numerous coins and a sarcophagus constructed of 52 tiles bearing the stamp of the tenth legion. Tlie Burclit-Straat continues in an easterly direction, and then turns slightly towards the left, passing a Monument (with a statue of Victory after Rauch) erected to commemorate the construction of the railway from Nymegen to Cleve f 1865), and theSocieteitBur- gerlust (p. 379). It ends at the shady pleasure-grounds of the Valk- HOF (PI. 5), laid out on an eminence above the Waal. Here are the scanty ruins of a large Romanesque palace of the Carlovingian em- perors, to which Eginhard, the biographer of Charlemagne, assigns an equal rank with the celebrated palace at Ingelheim. It was destroyed by the French in 1796. The memory of the Great Em- peror endures to this day among the people ; the curfew which sounds between 8.30 and 9 p.m. is known as 'Keizer Karel's Klock', and the finest square in the new quarter of the town is named 'Keizer Karel's Plein' (PI. 7). Of the palace-church only a fragment of the choir is extant. An interesting and well-preserved relic is the sixteen-sided Gothic Castle Chapel, consecrated by Pope Leo III. in 799, but reerected in the 12th century (key kept by the custodian of the Valkhof grounds). The legend of the Knight of the Swan is related of Nymegen as well as of Cleve (comp. p. 379). At the E. end of the old town, reached from the Yalkhof by an iron bridge erected in 1886. rises the ^Belvedere, a lofty build- ing resembling a tower (now a cafe, 10 c. charged for the ascent). The present building was erected by the town in 1646 , on the foundations of one of the towers of the fortifications. The plat- form commands an extensive and pleasing prospect, embracing Cleve, Arnhem, the heights of Elten, the fertile fields and rich pastures of the Betuwe, and the Waal, Rhine, Maas, and Yssel. To the S.E. of the Belvedere lies the Hunerpark. The best view of Nymegen is obtained from Lent, a village on the right bank of the Waal, connected with the town by means of a flying bridge. A bastion, known as the Knodsenburg, was built here in 1590 by Prince Maurice of Orange. The well-wooded and undulating environs of Nymegen rival in beauty the neighbouring Arnhem and Cleve. At the finest point, about 31/2 M. from the town, is situated the * Hotel Berg en Dal (p. 379) , commanding one of the loveliest prospects on the lower Rhine. To reach the hotel we may follow either the direct road (steam-tramway in 20 min., see p. 380), or the way to the S. 382 Route 55. GORINCHEM. through the Meerwyk (2 lirs.), or the way to the N. "by Vbbergen and Beek (IV2 l^^O- The first and second of these routes may be re- commended for going; and the last (tramway from Beek) for returning. The walk to the Duivelsberg on the WylerMeer^^^vaiix.') is also picturesque. At Neerhosch (steam-tramway, p. 380) is Mr. I. vanH Lindenhoufs well- endowed orphanage, in which 800-1000 children are accommodated. From Nymegen to Amsterdam yiX. Kesteeen. The railway crosses the Waal hy means of a three-arched bridge and beyond Lent (p. 381) traverses the Betuwe, the fertile district between the Waal and the Lek. We follow the Arnhem line (p. 383) via Lent and Ressen-Bemmel to Vork^ where we join the line coming from Arnhem via Oosterbeek (p. 375). 106 M. Kesteren is the junction foi Dordrecht (Rotterdam, Hoek van Holland, Flushing), see below. We now cross the Rhine, and reach Ehenen, which possesses a Gothic church and a graceful tower built in 1492-1531. Steam tramways run hence to Driebergen (p. 375) and Arnhem. — 114 M. Veenendaal, the junction of the Arnhem-Utrecht line (p. 375). — 153 M. Amersfoort, and railway thence to Amsterdam, see p. 355. From Ntmegen to Rotterdam via Kesterex and Dordrecht. — To (106 M.) Kesteren, see above. The next station is Echteld. 116 V2 ^I- Tiel (Vermunt; Corhelyn), a town with 9900 inhab., on the right bank of the Waal, received its municipal liberties from Otho I. in 972, when it was already a commercial place of some importance. In 1582 it was unsuccessfully besieged by the Span- iards, but it was taken by Turenne in 1672. The Kleiberg Gate (1647) is the last relic of the fortifications. 121 Y2 ^1' Wadenoyen, prettily situated ; 125 M. Geldermalsen, on the Linge, the junction of the Boxtel and Utrecht line (p. 368). Then, Beesd, Leerdam, and Arkel. 139 M. Gorinchem or Gorcum (Hotel Oosterwyk; Hotel van Andel), a busy town with 11,900 inhab., was one of the first places which the 'Water Gueux', or those insurgents who aided their com- patriots by sea, took from the Spaniards in 1572. It is situated at the point where the Linge flows into theMericede, the name given for a short distance to the river formed by the union of the Waal and the Maas (2M. to theW.), which afterwards resumes the name ofMaas. On the side of the town next the sea stand some fortified gateways of the 17th century. A visit to Gorlnchem and to W&udrichem or Worcum (steamboat every 2 hrs.) is full of interest for those who are interested in early Dutch brick buildings with mosaic decorations; for landscape painters; and also for salmon-fishers. — A little above Woudrichem is the Castle of Loetenstein. In 1619 Hogerleets and Hugo Grotius (De Grooi), the pensionaries or chief senators of Leyden and Rotterdam, were condemned as Arminians (p. 386) to be imprisoned for life in this castle. The latter, however, with the aid of his wife, effected his escape in a book-chest the following year. About 4 M. below Gorinchem, on the left bank, begins the Biesbosch ROERMOND. 56. Route. 383 (literally 'reed-forest"), a vast district, consisting of upwards of 100 islands, more than 40 square miles in area, formed by a destructive inundation in 1421. Xo fewer than 72 market towns and villages were destroyed by the floods and upwards of 100,000 persons perished. The Biesbosch is intersected by the broad artilicial channel of the Nieuwe Merwede. The next station is Hardinxoeld-Oiessendam. At Sliedrecht the railway crosses the Merwede. — 157 M. Dordrecht, and railway thence to Rotterdam, see pp. 386-88. From Arnhem (p. 375} to Tilburg via Nymegen and 'S Her- TOGEXBoscH, 511/2 M., Railway in 2-21/2 trs. (fares 4 ft. 20, 3 fl. 25 c, 2 fl.). The railway crosses the Rhine and traverses the fertile Be- iuxce (p. 375), via Elst, Ressen-Bemmel (p. 382), and Lent (p, 382). The Waal is next crossed. 101/2 M. Nymegen, see p. 379. 17 M. Wychen, with an old chateau, now the property of Baron Osy of Antwerp. — The train crosses the Maas. 21 M. Ravestein ; 231/2 M. Berchem; 26 M. Oss, the chief place for the manufacture of artificial butter, which is mostly exported to England; 29 M. Nuland-Geffen ; 34 M. Rosmalen. — 38 M. 'SHertogenbosch, see p. 366. The last stations are Vught (p. 366), Helvoirt, and Vdenhout. 511/2 M. Tilburg, see p. 385. 56. From Maastricht to Nymegen (Dordrecht^ Amers- foort- Amsterdam). 81 M. Eailwav (Holland. Staatsspooriceg) in 272-4 hrs. (fares 6 fl. 25, 5 tl. 26, 3 fl. 25 c.'j. Maastricht, see p. 225. — The railway follows the general course of the Maas, hut at some distance from the stream. 32/4 M. Bunde ; 8 M. Beek-Elsloo; 13 M. Sittard (Hotel Hahnen), a small manufacturing town (5100 inhah.) with a handsome 13th cent, parish church. From (I63/4M.) Susteren a diligence plies daily to the little town of (4 M.) Maaseyck (p. 179), on the other side of the Maas. — 20 M. Echt; 231/0 M. Maasbracht. 28 M. Roermond (Munster Hotel; Lion d'Or; Dahmen-WakkersJ, a town with 11,300 inhab., at the confluence of the Roer and the Maas, possessing considerable cloth- factories. The Romanesque Minster, formerly the church of a Cistercian nunnery, consecrated in 1224, has recently been restored and elaborately decorated. Behind is one of the old towers of the fortifications. St. Christophers is adorned with paintings. A picturesque avenue leads to the S. to the (1 M.) Redemptorist Chapel. — Roermond is the junction for the Miinchen - Gladbach and Antwerp railway (R. 18). — 31 M. Swalmen; 343/^ M. Reuver ; 37 M. Belfeld; 39 M. Tegelen. 41 M. Venlo (Van Wessem; Hotel Huenges ; Hotel Gerritzen), a town with 11,300 inhab., lies on the right bank of the Maas, and 384 Route 57. EINDHOVEN. From Cologne is connected by a "bridge with the opposite village of Blerick. It was formerly strongly fortified and sustained numerous sieges, but the works were razed in 1868. The Stadhuis in the market-place, a highly picturesque erection of 1595, contains a few interesting paintings by the artist-antiquary Hubert Goltzius, who spent his youth in the town. In the church is some carving by an artist of the 17th cent., signing himself 'G. S'. Venlo is the junction of railways to Miinchen-Gladbach (p. 182), to Wesel (Paris and Ham- burg line), to Boxtel-Rotterdam (R. 57) and to Flushing (R. 35). — Tramway via Tegelen (p. 383) to Steyl. Steamboat on the Maas from Venlo to Eotterdam, twice a week; see Van Santen's Officieele Reisgids. The train crosses the Maas. At Blerick (see below) the line to Rotterdam diverges to the left. 47M. Grubbenvorst-Klooster ; ASM.. Grubbenvorst-Lottum;biyL Meerlo-Tienray ; 55 M. Venray; 597-2 M. Vierlingsbeek ; 64 M. Boxmeer (Hotel Boomgard) , with an old castle and town - hall ; 671/2 M. Beugen^ the junction for Boxtel and Wesel (p. 378); 7O3/4M. Cuyk. Near (74M.)Moofe, on the heath of the same name, the Princes Louis and Henry of Orange, brothers of William the Si- lent, were defeated and slain by the Spaniards, on March 15th, 1574. 791/2 M. Nymegen, see p. 379. 57. From Cologne to Rotterdam via Venlo. 154 V2 M. Express in 53/4 hrs. (fares 19 JL, 14 Jl 90, 9 Jf 90 pf.). Prus- sian Railway to Venlo 5 thence Dutch Railway. — Stations at Rotterdam, see p. 252. Cologne, and thence to Venlo, see Baedeker's Rhine. The train runs via Neuss, Crefeld, and Kempen. crosses the Prussian frontier beyond Kaldenkirchen, and reaches Venlo in 51 minutes from Co- logne. For details, see Baedeker's Rhine. 55 M. Venlo (see above), the seat of the Dutch custom-house authorities, and junction of the lines from Maastricht to Nymegen (R. 56), and from Paris to Hamburg (via Wesel). — The Rotterdam line crosses the Maas, diverges from the Nymegen line at Blerik (see above), and traverses the morass of De Peel (25 M. long, 6 M. wide), which yields excellent peat. 567-2 M. Horst-Sevenum,- 69 V2 M. Helenaveen; 73 M. Deurne. — 7972 ^^- Helmond, a town with 7000 inhab. on the Zuid -Willems - Kanaal ^ which the railway crosses. Steam-tramway to Veghel (p. 367) and 'S Hertogenbosch (p. 366). — 841/2 M. Nuenen-Tongelre. 871/9 M. Eindhoven (Hof van Holland), a manufacturing town with 4500 inhab., the junction of the Hasselt and Utrecht line (p. 366), which the present route now follows. Steam-tramway to Geldrop. 99 M. Best. 100 M. Boxtel (Hotel van Dyk; Hotel Boxtel; Rail. Restaurant), situated at the influx of the Beerze into the Dommel, junction for to Rotterdam. BREDA. 57. Route. 385 tlie lines from Goch (p. 378) and for the line via 'S Hertogenbosch to Utrecht (p. 366). Our line turns to the W., and farther on crosses the Nieutve Ley, another tributary of the Dommel. 105 M. OisterwyJc. — llQi/g M. Tilburg (De Gouden Zwaan; Hotel Br ox, R. , L., & A. 1 V4-I V2 A- » Hotel-Restaurant de la Station), a woollen-manufacturing town of 34,000 inhab., with a new Gothic church. Tilburg is the junction of the Hertogenbosch and Nymegen line mentioned above. A branch-line also diverges here to (19 M.) Turnhout (p. 137), and a steam-tramway to Waalioyh (p. 367). — 118 M. Gilze-Ryen. 124 M. Breda. — Hotels. De Kkoon , De Zwaan , both in the Bosch-Straat, the principal street; Wapen van Nassau, at the corner of the School-Straat and Kraan-Straat, R. & B. 1 fl. 30 c, D. 1, S. 1/2 A- — Cafe-Restaurants. Hof van Holland, near the Protestant church-, Railway Restaurant. Breda, a fortified town with 22,100 inhab., lies on the Merk and he Aa, by means of which rivers the whole surrounding country can be laid under water. The Protestant Church (Hervormde Kerk) near the market-place, a late-Gothic edifice dating from 1290 (present choir consecrated in 1410), with a tower recently restored, contains an imposing Renaissance *Monument to Count Engel- bert II. of Nassau, the general and favourite of Emp. Charles V., and his wife Maria of Baden, by Thomas Vincenz of Bologna, who, though a pupil of Raphael, followed Michael Angelo's style. The figures, sculptured in Italian alabaster, repose on a sarcophagus, while four half -kneeling statues, representing Caesar, Regulus, Hannibal, and Philip of Macedon, bear on their shoulders a slab on which is placed the admirably-executed armour of the count. [This monument was the model for that of Sir Francis Vere in Westminster Abbey.] Many of the other monuments are also in- teresting, particularly those of Count Borgnival (d. 1636) and Dirck van Assendelfft (d. 1653 ; the latter much defaced by the iconoclasts). The choir contains some good wood-carving, representing monks in comical attitudes, intended as a satire on the clergy; a Renaissance font in copper ; and the fine brass of Willem van Gaellen (Galeii ; executed after 1539). — The Old Castle, begun after 1536 under Hendrik and Reinier of Nassau (d. 1544) by Thomas of Bologna (see above), was completed under William of Orange, King of England, by Jacob Romans in 1696. It has, however, been completely altered in converting it into a military school. No trace is now left of the former magnificence of this castle, in which William of Orange and Counts Egmont and Hoorn conducted the preliminaries for the Com- promise of the Dutch Nobles in 1666 (comp. p. 100). — The park in front of the castle, formerly called Hof van Valkenberg, also dates from the 15th century. — From Breda to Roosendaal and Flushing, see R. 36. Steam Tramways run from Breda : 1. Via Zundert, Wuesttoezel, etc. to (30 M.) Antwerp (p. 137); — 2. Via Oudenbosch (p. 176) and Gastelsveer Baedeker's Belgium and Holland. 12th Edit. 25 386 Route 57. DORDRECHT. From Cologne (branch-line to Rosendaal, p. 176) io St e enter gen; — 3. To Oosterhout, and thence on the one side to Dongen^ a small town with 43(X)inhab., and on the other to Geertruidenberg (p. 367), Near (130^2 M.) Langeweg the line crosses the Dintel and passes (^iSSM.') Lage-Zwaluwe, the junction forthelineto Antwerp (p. 176) and the line from 'S Hertogenbosch (p. 367) , which proceeds to Moerdyk on the Hollandsch Diep. We now reach the Bridge over the Hollandsch Diep, an arm of the sea which was formed in 1421 (comp. p. 382). This vast structure was begun in May 1868, and completed in November 1871. The breadth of the bay at this point is l^/g M., but owing to stone piers projecting into the water the length of the bridge, which has four- teen iron arches with a span of 110 yds. each, is only Vs M. in length. The foundations of several of the stone buttresses which support the bridge are 50-60 ft. below low-water mark. Fine view over the expanse of water. At the N. end of the bridge lies (1371/2 M.) Willemsdorp. 142 M. Dordrecht. — Hotels. Bellevde, Groote Hoofd 25, near the Merwe-Kade, or steamboat pier, E., L., & A. 2, B. ^/t, dej. 1, D. 2, pens. 3V2-5 fl. ; Hotel Ponsex, with restaurant, at the station, R., L., A., & B. 2-2V2, dej. 1 fl. 40 c, D. 1^,4 A., well spoken of; Aux Abmes de Hollande or Pexxock, just behind the Bellevue, in the Wyn-Straat, R., L., A., d; B. from 13/4, dej. 1, D. incl. wine 2V4, pens, from 3fl. ; Hotel de Pologne, Scheffersplein. Tramway from the station through the town to the Merwekade^ con- veying luggage not over 66 lbs. in weight. — Steam Ferries from the Blaauwpoort to Zicyndrecht (p. 388) and from the E. end of the Merwe- Kade to Papendrecht (3 c). — Steamboat to Rotterdam in summer 6-8 times daily (45 or 30 c). Dordrecht^ usually called Dart by the Dutch, with 36,000 in- hab. , ship-building yards, and considerable timber-trade, was found- ed in 1018 by Count Dietrich of Holland, and in the middle ages was the wealthiest commercial city in Holland. In 1572 the first assembly of the independent states of Holland was held here. From Nov. 13th, 1618, till May 9th, 1619, the famous Synod of Dort held its meetings here, which were attended also by deputies from Eng- land and Scotland. The synod was convened with a view to effect a compromise betw'een the Arminians (or Remonstrants) , who were supported by Oldenbarneveld, Grotius, and other leaders of the re- publican party, and the austere Gomarists (or Calvinists)^ on whose side stood Maurice of Orange. The result was a victory for the latter. — The island upon which Dordrecht lies was separated from the mainland by the calamitous inundation of 1421 (p. 382). The har- bour formed by the river, here called Merwede (comp. p. 382), ad- mits sea-going vessels of heavy tonnage. On leaving the station we follow the tramway, and, crossing a canal-bridge, reach the town in 5 min.; the principal street leads in 5 min. more to the small Vischhrug. Beyond this bridge we may either turn to the left (Groenmarkt) towards i\vQ, Stadhuis , originally a late-Gothic edifice, with a fagade rebuilt in 1835 in the rococo style, and the Groote Kerk, or to the right (Wyn-Straat) to the mu- seum (see below). to Rotterdam. DORDRECHT. 57. Route. 387 The Gothic Gkoote Kerk (Onze lieve Vrouw), of the 14th cent., with choir of the 15th, was successfully restored in 1882. The lofty and conspicuous tower is ascended by a flight of 365 steps. The interior (106 yds. long; nave 88 ft. high) rests on 56 pillars, and, though hare, produces an imposing effect. The fine old carved *Choir-stalls, executed by Jan Terween Aertsz in the Renais- sance style in 1538-40, are the most important work of the kind in Holland. The interesting representations on the backs of the stalls illustrate (right) the Triumph of the Church and the Eucharist, and (left) the Triumphal entry of Charles V. (a reproduction of Diirer's Triumphal procession of Maximilian I.). A screen of brass (18th cent.) separates the choir from the nave. The marble pulpit dates from 1756 , and several of the ecclesiastical vessels from the 18th century. The sacristan lives on the N. side of the church. TheWynstraat, in which are numerous quaint mediaeval houses, diverges to the right at the Vischbrug, and leads past a small open space, which is embellished by a bronze statue of the eminent painter Ary ^c/ic/fer (1795-1858), a native of Dordrecht, by Mezzera (1862). — To the right, farther on, stands the — Museum (daily 9-4; adm. 10 c. ; catalogue 25 c), a gallery of pictures, chiefly by modern artists. Among the Older Paintings are : J. de Baen, Portraits of the brothers De Witt (p. 278; natives of Dordrecht) and their parents ; 3. C Bisschop, Regents and lady-managers of the Hospital in 1671; 4. Blocklandt. Last Supper; 5. F. Bol, Portrait of himself; *7, 8. A. Cuyp, Landscapes; 11. A. de Gelder, Portrait of Notemans, the sculptor; *20. Maes, Portrait of Jacob de Witt; 27. Willaerts, View of Dordrecht in 1620. Among the Modeen Paintings are works by L. Apol C^o. 20), /. Bos- loom (40), G. H. Breitnev, Jos. Israels C'63), Jac. Maris (-90), W. Maris (91), Mauve (92), Neuhmjs (59), and Alma Tadema (120). — The whole of one of the principal walls of the saloon is devoted to Ary Scheffer (see above), being occupied by pictures (chiefly copies), diawings, and several works in plaster of Paris (recumbent figure of his mother). The only original paintings by Scheft'er are: I. Christ on the Mount of Olives ; VII, Portrait of S. W. Reynolds, the engraver; V. Reduced repetition of the Christus Consolator (p. 314), and IV. the artisfs last unlinished work (Matt. V. 4). — We also notice a bust of the Grand Pensionary Jan de Witt, by A. Quellin (1665). At the end of the Wyn-Straat, near the Hotel Bellevue, stands the Groothoofd-Poort, an ancient city-gate , rebuilt in 1618, with reliefs and a dome of 1693. The interior is occupied by the collec- tion of antiquities belonging to the '■Oud-DordrechV society (adm., daily except Mon., 10-4; 25 c). In the Vestibule are 'gable-stones', with reliefs and inscriptions. — On the First Floor are a few paintings: F. Weyts^ Synod of Dort; Dou- dyns., Burning of the Church of St. Nicholas at Dordrecht in 1538; Siege of Dordrecht by John, Duke of Brabant, in 1418 ; Schouman and Schotel, Siege of Dordrecht by the French in 1813. Here also are a carved wooden chimney-piece border from the Kloveniersdoelen, Scenes from the Passion from the Groote Kerk, and other wood-carvings; engravings; plans and views of the town; and portraits of eminent men. — On the Second Floor are models of ships, uniforms, weapons, flags. — In the Dome is a collection of medals (many referring to the death of the brothers De Witt, p. 278) and coins of the former country (afterwards province) of 25* 388 Route 57. YSSELMONDE. Holland, mostly coined at Dordrecht. Picturesque view of the busy Mer- wede and of the Maas ('de Xoord") flowing thence to the N. towards Rot- terdam . After quitting the station of Dordrecht, the train crosses the Maas by an iron bridge of four arches resting on six piers. 14472 M. Zwyndrecht; 148 M. Barendrecht ; 1517-2 M. Ysselmonde, oppo- site the influx of the Dutch Yssel iiito the Maas, with a turreted chateau. The train crosses the S. and narrower arm of the Meuse and the Noorder Eiland and then the main arm of the Meuse, by the bridge mentioned at p. 261. A fine view of the river and town is obtained. 15472 M. Rotterdam, see p. 252. List of the Flemisli, Dutch, and Belgian Artists mentioned in the Hand- hook, with hiographical notices. Abbreviations: A. = architect; P. = painter 5 S. = sculptor; c, ca. = circa, about; b. = born; d. = died. The Roman numerals refer to the Historical Sketch of Netherlandish Art in the Introduction. The name of a town immediately following; the name of an artist is that of his birthplace; those at the end of the not- ice are the scenes of his professional activity. — In the spelling of proper names the Dutch ij is represented by y. Kchtschellinck. Lucas . P., Brussels; 1570-1631. Aelst, Willem ( Guillielmo) van^ Dutch P. of Delft; 1626 -ca. 1683. Delft, Amsterdam, France, Italy. — Ixii. Aertsen , Pieter, surnamed de lange Pier. Nether. P. of Amsterdam ; pu- pil of Allart Claasz at Amsterdam ; 1508-75. Amsterdam, Antwerp. Alma Tadema^ Lourens, P., Dronr3^; pupil of Leys; b. 1836. London. Alsloof, Denis van. Landscape P.; about 1550-1625. Anraadt, Pieter van, Dutch P., Deven- ter ; d. 1681 ; in Amsterdam 1672-75. A}>siaux, Jean Joseph EUonore An- ioine, Belg. P., Liege; pupil of Vincent; 1764-1840. Anthoniszon^ see Teunissen. Antum, Aert^ Diitch P. of sea-pieces ; about 1600. Apol^ Louis, P., the Hague; pupil of Hoppenbrouwers and Stortenbe- ker; b. 1850. Arlun, Louis, Belg. P.; 1837-90. Arthois, Jacques d\ P., Brussels; pu- pil of Jan Mertcns ; 1613-65 (V). Artz , David Adolphe Const., Dulch P., the Hague: pupil of Israels; 1837-90. Asselhergs, Ali^honse , P., Brussels; b. 183H. Asselyn. Jan. surn. Krahbetge, Dutch P., Diepen; pupil of Esaias van de Velde (?) ; 1610-52. Amsterdam, formerly Rome. — Ixi. Avont, Pieter van den, Belg. P., Ma- lines, 1600-1652. Antwerp. Backer, Adriaert, P., Amsterdam; ca. 1635-84. Amsterdam, Rome. Backer, Jacob A., Dutch P., Har- lingen ; 1608-51. Amsterdam. — Ivii. Backer, Jacques de. P., Antwerp : 1635 (36)-84. Backereel, Gilles, P., Antwerp; b. 1572 (?). Antwerp. Baeckelmans, Jacques, living A., Ant- werp. Baen, Jan de, Dutch P., Haarlem; pupil of Piemans and of Jacob Backer; 1633-1702. The Hague. Bakhuijsen, Ludolf, Dutch P., Emden ; pupil of A. van Everdingen and H. Dubbels; 1631-1708. Amsterdam. Bakhuyzen, Jul. van de Sande, P., at the Hague; b. 1835. Balen, Hendrik van, the Elder, Flem. P., Antwerp; pupil of Ad. van NoortCO; 1575-1632, Antwerp. Balten, Peeter, Flem. P., Antwerp; d. about 1600. Barentsz, Dirck, Dutch P., Amster- dam; 1534-92. Baron, TModore, Belg. P. ; b. 1840. Bassen. Barthol. van, Dutch P. : ca. 1590-1652. The Hague and Delft. Bauer, Nicolaas, P., Harlingen : 1767- 1820. Baurscheit, Jan Pieter van, the Youn- ger, S. and A., Antwerp; pupil of his father; 1699-1768. Antwerp. Beeckman, Andries, P.; ca. 1651. De- venter. 5ee/<,Corne/rs,P.;aboutl660. Haarlem. Beers, Jan van, Flem. P., Lierre: b. 1852. Beerstraaten, Jan, Dutch P. ; 1622-66. Beerstraten, Anthonie, Dutch P., Am- sterdam (middle of the 17th cent.). Bega, Cornelis, Dutch P., Haarlem; pupil of A. van Ostade; 1620-64. Haarlem. — lix. Berchein or Berghem, Claes (Nicolaes) Pietersz, Dutch P., Haarlem; 1620 •83. Haarlem, Amsterdam. — Ixi. Berck-Heyde, Gerrit, Dutch P., Haar- lem ; pupil of Frans Hals ; 1638-98. Haarlem. Berck-Heyde, Job, P.. Haarlem ; pupil of Frans Hals ; 1630-93. BUhune d'' Ydewalle , Jan, living P. on glass at Ghent. Beyaert, H., Belg. A. ; d. 1894. Beyeren, Abraham Hendricktz van, Dutch P., the Hague; ca. 1620-after 1674. Biefve, Edouard de. P., Brussels; pupil of Paelinck ; 1809-82. Brussels, Paris. 390 LIST OF ARTISTS. Bildei's, Johannes Warnardus, P., Utrecht; 1811-90. Biset, Karel Emanuel^ P., Malines; studied at Paris ; 1633-91. Antwerp, Breda. Bisschop, ChristoffeL Dutch P., Leeu- warden ; pupil of W. H. Schmidt and H. van Hove; b. 1828. The Hague. Blanchaet't^ living S. at Ghent; pu- pil of Bethune. Bleker, Dirck ^ Dutch P., Haarlem', 1G12-72 (?). Amsterdam, The Hague. Bles^ David ^ Dutch P., the Hague; pupil of Corn. Kruseman; b. 1821. Bles^ Herri (Hendrik) de, or Herri met de Bles, surn. Civetta , Kether. P. of Bouvignes, near Namur; b. about 1480, d. after 1521. Italy, Netherlands. Blocklandt, Anthonie van Montfort^ surn. van BL, P., Montfort; 1532- 83. Utrecht. Bloemaert. Abraham^ Dutch P.. Gor- cum; 1564-1651. Utrecht. — li. Ploemaert, Hendrik^ P. . son and pupil of the last; 1601-72. Utrecht and Italy. Blommers, Bemardtis Johannes, P., the Hague; pupil of Bisschop; b. 18i5. Blondeel, Lancelot, Netherlandish P. & A., Bruges; studied in Italy; c. 1495-1561. Bruges. Blyhooft, Zacharias, Dutch P., Mid- delburg; d. 1682 (?). Bockhoi'st, Johan van, surn. Langjan. P., Miinster in Westphalia; pupil of Jordaens ; 1610 (?)-63. Antwerp. Boeyermans, Theodoor^F., Antwerp; 1620-78. Antwerp. Bol, Ferdinand, Dutch P., Dordrecht; pupil of Rembrandt; 1616-80. Am- sterdam. — Ivi. Boone,Daniel, Dutch P.,Middelburg(?); 1631-98. London, Amsterdam. Boonen, Arnold, Dutch P., Dord- recht; 1669-1729. Dordrecht, Am- sterdam, Germany. Borch, see Terhurg. Borselen, Jan Willem van, Dutch P.. Gouda; 1825-92. The Hague. Bosboom,Joh.,V., theHasue; pupil of B. J. van Hove ; 1817-91. The Hague. Bosch, Hieron. van Aken, surnamed B., Dutch P., 's Hertogenbosch ; 1462-1516. Bosschaert, see WiUeboirts. Bossuet, Frangois Antoine, P.. Ypres; 1800-1889. Brussels. Both, Andries, P., Utrecht; brother of Jan B., pupil of his father, Bloemaert, and (at Rome) Pieter vanLaar; b. ca. 1609, d. at Venice ca. 1644. Both, Jan, Dutch P., Utrecht; pupil of Abr. Bloemaert; ca. 1610-52. Rome, Utrecht. — Ixii. Boulenger, Hippolyte, Belg. P. ; 1837-74. Bource, Henri Jacques, Genre P., Ant- werp; pupil of Wappers & Dyck- mans, and of Ary Scheffer in Pa- ris; b. 1826. Antwerp. Bonri, Antoine F4lix, S., Brussels; 1831-83. Bouts, Dierick (Dirk), formerly erron- eously called Stuerbout, P., Haar- lem; 1400 (?)-75. Louvain. — xlii. Braekeleer, Ferdinand de , P. , Ant- werp ; pupil of J. van Bree; 1792- 1883. Antwerp. Braekeleer, Henri de, Belg. P. ; 1840-88. Brakenhurgh, Richard, P., Haarlem; pupil of Adr. van Ostade ; 1650- 1702. Haarlem. Bray, Jan de. Historical P.; b. at Haarlem, d. 1697. Bree, Mattheus Ignatius van. P., S., & A.; 1773-1839. Antwerp. Bree . Philippus Jacobus van . P., brother of Matthias; pup. of his brother and Girodet in Paris ; 1786-1871. Pavia, Paris, Brussels. Breen, Adam van, Dutch P. -, begin- ning of the 17th cent. ; the Hague, Amsterdam. Breitner, Oeorge Hendrik, Dutch. P., Rotterdam; pupil of W. Maris; b. 1857. Brekelenkam^ Quiringh Gerritsz van, Dutch P. ; c. 1620 68. Leyden. Breton, Jules Adolphe, P., Courrieres; pupil of De Vigne and Drolling; b. 1827. Breuck , Jacques de, A. & P. of the 16th cent. ; St. Omer. Breughel, see Brueghel. Bril, Paulus, Flemish P., Antwerp; 1554-1626. Rome. — xliv. Bronchorst, Jan Gerritz van, Dutch P. and artist in stained glass, Utrecht; b. 1603, d. ca. 1661. Amsterdam. Brouwer , Adriaen, Flem. P., Oude- naarde; pup. of Frans Hals at Haarlem and of Rubens at Ant- werp ; c. 1605-38. Antwerp. — lix. Brueghel, Jan, surn. Fluweelen or Velvet Brueghel, Flem. P., Brussels; son of P. Brueghel the Elder; 1568- 1625. Italy, Antwerp. — xliv. Brueghel, Peeter, the Elder, surn. Peasant Brueghel,Flem.. P., Breda; c. 1520-69. Antwerp, Brussels. — xliv. Brueghel, Pieter, the Younger, surn Hell-fire Brueghel, Flem. P. of Brussels; son of P. B. the Elder 1564-1638. Antwerp. — xliv. ■I LIST OF ARTISTS. 391 Bruyn ^ Bartholomaeus de , Ger. P., Cologne; b. ca. 1493, flourished at Cologne between 1524 and 1555. Buytenweg^ Willem, P., Rotterdam-, pupil of H. Blaartensz ; b. before 1600. Haarlem. Calloigne, Jan Robbert, S., Bruges; 1775-1830. Bruges, Paris, Ghent. Camerarius^ Adam, Dutch portrait- painter ; 1644 - 85. Amsterdam , Naarden. Camphuysen, Govert, Dutch P., Gor- cum; 1623(24)-72. Amsterdam. Capronnier, J. J5., living P. (glass), Brussels. Carliet% Jean Guillaume , P., Liege; pupil of Berth. Flemalle; c. 1638 to c. 1675. Liege, France, Gate, Hendrik Qerrit ten, Dutch P., Amsterdam ; pupil of Westenberg ; 1803-56. Cauioey, Joseph utch P., Bommel ; 1648- ii'M. Utrecbt, tbe Hague. Hondecoeter, Gillis d\ Dutcb P., Ant- werp; flourisbed at Utrecbt and Amsterdam in 1609-37; d. 1637. Hondecoeier, Melchior d\ Dutcb P., Utrecbt; pupil of bis fatber Gysbert (t 1653) and bis uncle J. B. Weenix ; 1636-95. Tbe Hague, Amsterdam. Hondius, Abraham, P., Rotterdam; 1638-90. Rotterdam, London. Honthorst, Gerard van, surn. Ghe- rardo della Notte , Dutcb P., Ut- recbt; pupil of Bloemaert at Ut- recbt (Caravaggio at Rome); 1590 1656. Utrecbt, Tbe Hague, Lon- don. — li. Hooch, Pieter de (sometimes Hoogh or Hooge), Dutcb P., Rotterdam; 1630- ca. 77. Delft. — Ivii. Hoogstraten, Samuel van, Dutcb P., Dordrecbt; pupil of bis fatber Dirk and of Rembrandt; 1626-1678. Rome, London, tbe Hague, Dordrecbt. Hool, Johann Baptist van, S., Ant- werp ; pupil of Van Ursel ; 1769- 1837. Antwerp. Houbraken, Arnold, Dutcb P., Dor- drecbt; 1660-1719. LIST OF ARTISTS. 395 Hove^ Barthol. Joh. van, P., tlie Hague; 1790-1880. Hove, Victor van, S. and P., Re- naix; 1825-91. Brussels. Huchteniurgh , Jan van, Dutch P., Haarlem; pupil of Thomas Wyck (at Paris, A. Ft, van der Bleulen) ; 1646-1733. Haarlem, Rome, Amster- dam, The Hague. Huff el , Pierre van , P. , Grammont ; pupil of Herreyns (Malines); 1769- 1844. Ghent. Huysmans, Jan Baptiste , P., Ant- werp; 1654-1711 (Vj. Huysum, Jan van, Dutch P., Amster- dam ; pupil of his father Justus ; 1682-1749. Amsterdam. — Ixii. Israels, Jozef, Dutch P. ; Groningen ; pupil of J. A. Krusem^n ; b. 1824. The Hague. Jacob van Arthois, see Arthois. Jacobsz, Dirck, Dutch P., Amster- dam (V); d. 1567. — liii. Janssens, Ahraham, Flem. P., Ant- werp ; pupil of Jan Snellinck ; 1567- 1632. Antwerp. — xlix. Janssens (Janson or Jonson), Cornells (J. van Ceulen), Dutch P.; 1590 (?) to 1662/64. London, Amsterdam. Janssens^ Frangois Joseph, S., Brus- sels; 1744-1816. Brussels. Janssens, Victor Honori, P., Brussels ; 1664-1739. Brussels. Jaquet, Jean Joseph, living S., Ant- werp; Brussels. Jardin, Edouard du, or Bujardin, P., Antwerp ; pupil of G.Wappers; b. 1817. Antwerp. Jardin, Karel du, Dutch P., Amster- dam ; pupil of Claes Berchem ; 1622-78. The Hague, Amsterdam, Italy. — Ixi. Jehotte, Louis, S., Liege; pupil of Kessels and Thorvaldsen at Rome; b. 1803. Jongelincx, Jacob, S., Antwerp; 1531- 1606. Antwerp. Jongh, Ludolfde, P., Overschie ; 1616- 97. Rotterdam. Jonghe, Jan Baptist de, P., Courtrai ; pupil of Ommeganck; 1785-1844. Courtrai, Antwerp. Jordaens, Jacob, Flem. P., Antwerp ; pupil of Adam van Noort (Ant- werp); 1593-1678. Antwerp. — xlix. Justus van Ghent, see Ghent. Kaiser, Joh. Wilh. , engraver, Am- sterdam, pupil of Taurel ; 1813-95. Amsterdam. Kalff, Willem,'P., Amsterdam; pupil of Hendr. Pot; 1621(22)-93. Kampen, Jacob van, A. & P., Amers foort; 1598-1657. Kamper, Goithart , P., Diisseldorf; 1614-79. Leyden. Keldermans or Keldermrnm, the name of a family of architects of Malines, the most important member of which was Rombout K.; 16th cen- tury. Kerckhove (Kerchove), Joseph van den, P., Bruges; pupil of Jan Erasm. Quellinus; 1670-1724. Bruges. Kerricx, Guillaume, S., Termonde; pupil of Artus Quellinus the Youn- ger; 1652-1719. Antwerp. Kessel, Johan van, Dutch P.. Amster- dam ; pupil of Ruysdael ; 1641(42)80. Ketel, Cornells, P., S., and A., Gouda ; pupil ofBlocklandt at Delft; 1548- 1616. Gouda, London, Amsterdam Keulen, van, see Janssens, Comelis. Keultjes, Gerrit Laurens, Dutch P., Utrecht; b. 1786. Key or Key en, Adriaen T/iomasz, P., Antwerp (?); pupil of his cousin Willem K. ; d. after 1589. Key. Lieven de. A., Ghent, c. 1560- 1627. London, Haarlem, Leyden. Keyser, Hendrik de, A. & S., Utrecht; pupil of Cornells Bloemaert; 1565- 1621. Amsterdam. Keyser, Nicaise de. P., Santvliet, near Antwerp; 1813-87. Antwerp. Keyser, Thomas de, Dutch P., Am- sterdam, son of Hendrik de K. ; 1596(97)-1667. Amsterdam. — liii. Kindevmans, J., Belg. P.; 1822-76. Klinkenberg, Joh. Christ. Karel, Dutch P., the Hague; pupil of Ch. Bis- schop ; b. 1852. Knyff, Alfred de, Belg. P. ; 1819-85. Kobell, Jan, P., Delfshaven; pupil of W. R. van der Wall ; 1778-1814. Koeberger ( Coeberger), We7iceslaus, Flem. P. & A., Antwerp ; pupil of Marten deVos; c. 1561-1635. Ant- werp, Paris, Italy, Brussels. Koekkoek , Barend 'Cornells, P., Mid- delburg; pupil of his father Joh. Herm. K., Schelfhout, & Van Os (Amsterdam); 1803-62. Koekkoek, Hermann, Dutch P., brother of the last and pupil of his father J. Herm, K.; 1815-82. Amsterdam. Koninck, Philips, P., Amsterdam; pupil of Rembrandt; 1619-88. — Ivii. Koninck, Salomon, Dutch P., Amster- dam ; 1609-56. Amsterdam. — liv. Koning, Jacob, Dutch P. ; about 1615- 1708. 396 LTST OF ARTISTS. Korfr, Alex. Hugo Balder, Dutcli P., The Hat;ue; lb24-82. Leyden. Kruseman, Coi-nelis, P., Amsterdam; pupil of C. H. Hodges & J. A. Dai- walle; 1797-1857. Krvseman, Jan Adam, Dutch P., Haar- lem; pupil of Corn. Kruseman and J. L. David; 1804-62. Kuyl, Gysbert van der , Dutch P., Gouda ; pupil of Crabeth the Young- er; d. 1673. Gouda. Lairesse, Gerard de, Dutch P., Liege; pupil of his father Reynier and of B. Flemalle of Liege; 1641-1711. Liege, Amsterdam. Lambeaux, Joseph Marie Thomas, Belg. S. ; b. 1852. Lamorinih'e , Jean Pierre Francois, landscape P. , Antwerp ; b. 1828. Lastman, Pieter, Dutch P., Amster- dam; pupil of Gerrit Pietersz at Amsterdam (Italy, Elsheimer); 15'^3-1633. Amsterdam. — li. liv. Last/nan, Claes, Dutch P. and etcher; brother of the preceding; d. 1625 at Amsterdam. Leemans, Anthonie, Dutch P., Amster- dam; b. 1630(31). d. after 16«3. Leickert, Charles Henri Joseph, Dutch P., Brussels; b. 1818. Amsterdam. Lelie, Adriaan de, Dutch P., Tilburg; pupil of Quertemont; 1755-1820. Lens, Andreas C-ornelis, P., Antwerp; pupil of Charles Ykens & Balthas. Beschey of Antwerp; 1739-1822. Antwerp, Brussels. Lerius, Joseph Henri Frangois van, P., Boom, near Antwerp; 1823-76. Leyden, Lucas van, Netherl. P.. Ley- den ; pupil of his father Huig Ja- cobsz and of Cornells Engelbrecht- sen; 1494-1533. Leyden. — xliii. Leys, Hendrik, P., Antwerp; pupil of F. de Braekeleer : 1815-69. lAemaeckere, Nicolaas de, surn. Roose, P., Ghent ; pupil of Marcus Geerards & O. van Veen ; 1575-1646. Ghent. Lies, Joseph, P., Antwerp-, 1821-65. Lingelhach, Johannes,^ P., Frankfort on the Main; 1623- (4. Paris, Italy, Amsterdam. Lingeman, Lambertus. P., Amsterdam, pupil of P. F. Greive : lb29-94. Lint, Pierre (Petrus) van, P., Ant- werp ; pupil of Rol, Jacobs ; 1609- 90. Antwerp, also Rome. Livens (Lievens), Jan, Dutch P., Leyden ; 1607-74. Leyden, Antwerp, The Hague. — Ivii.' Lokhorst, Dirk van, DuichV., Utrecht; pupil of Verhoesen and Bilders ; 1818-93. Lombard, iamJ^ri ("erroneously called Lambert Suavius or Susterman), Netherl. P. and A., Liege (.Jan Gossart at Middelburs;; Raphael in Italy); 1505-66. Liege. T/Labuse, see Jan Gossaert. Madou, Jean Baptiste, P., Brussels; pupil of Francois; 1796-1877. Maes, Jan Baptist Lodewyk, P., Ghent; pupil of his father Canini-Maes; 1794-1856. Maes, Mcolaes, Dutch P., Dordrecht ; at first a pupil of Rembrandt; 1632-93. Dordrecht, Amsterdam. Mander, Karel van, the Elder, P. and writer on art, Meulenbecke in Flanders ; 1548-1606. Rome, Bruges, Haarlem, Amsterdam. — li. xliv. li. Markelbach^Alexander, P., Antwerp; b. 1824. Brussels. Massys, Quinten, also called Matsys a,nd Metsys, Netherl. P., Antwerp; ca. 1460-1531. Antwerp. — xliii. 2Iathieu, Lambert Joseph, P., Bure, in the province of Namur; pupil of M. van Bree (Antwerp) ; 1804- 61. Louvain. Mauve, Anton, P., Zaandam ; pupil of P. F. von Os; 1838-88. Meer, Jan van der ( Vermeer), Dutch P., Haarlem; 1628-91. Haarlem. — Isii. Meert, Peeter, Flem. P., Brussels; 1618-68. Brussels. Meire, Gerard van der, P., tlourish- ed at Ghent between 1452 and 1474 (Jan van Eyck). — xli. Memling (Memlinc) , Hans, early Flem. P., Momlingen, near Aschaf- fenburg; probablv pupil of Roger van der Wevden ; b. before 1430 (?), d. 1494. Bruges. — xli. Mesdag, Hendrik Willem, P., Gro- ninsen ; pupil of W. Roelofs and AlmaTadema; b.l831. The Hague. Metsu, Gabriel, Dutch P., Leyden ; probably pupil of Gerard Dou at Leyden; ca. 1630-67. Amsterdam. — Ix. Metsys, Cornelis, Flem. P., Antwerp ; pupil of his father Qu. Massys ; ca. 1511-80 (?). Meyer, J oh. Hendr. Louis, P., Am- sterdam; pupil of J. W. Piene- man; 1819-66. Mierevelt, Michiel Jansz van, Dutch P., Delft; 15G7-1641. Delft, also the Hague. — liii. Mierevelt, Pieter, P., Delft: son and pupil of the last; 1595-1632. — Hii. Mieris, Frans van, the Elder, Dutch P., Leyden ; pupil of the glass- I LIST OF ARTISTS. 397 painter Abraham Torenvliet and of Gerard Dou; 1635-81. Leyden — Ivii. Mieris, Frans van^ the Younger, Dutch P., Leyden : son and pupil of the following; 1689-1763. Leyden. Mieris, Willem van, P., Leyden; son and pupil of Frans van Mieris the Elder; 1602-1747. Leyden. Mignon , Abraham , P., Frankfort on the Main; pupil of J. D. de Heem at Utrecht; 1640-79. Utrecht, Frank- fort. Moer, Jean Baptiste van, Belg. P.; 1819-84. Brussels. Moerenhout, Josephus Jodocus, Flem. P., Eeckeren; pupil of Verpoorten and Horace Vernet; 1801-74. Moeyaert, Nicolaes (Claes) Cornelisz, Dutch P. ; about 1600 - 1689 (?). Italy, Amsterdam. Molenaer, Jan Miense, Dutch P., Haarlem; 1610(?)-68. Haarlem. Molenaer, Nicolaas or Klaes, P., Haar- lem; d. 1676. Haarlem. Moor, Karel de, the Elder, P., Ley- den; pupil of G. Dou and Abr. van den Tempel (Frans v. Mieris & Gerh. Schalcken); 1656-1738. Mor (or Mora), Antaonies, Dutch P., Utrecht; pupil of .1. van Schooreel at Utrecht (also of Italian masters); b. ca. 1512, d. about 1576. Utrecht, Antwerp, and the courts of Madrid, Lisbon, London, and Brussels. — xliv. Moreelse, Paulus, Dutch P., Utrecht; pupil of Michiei Mierevelt (Delft); 1571-1638. Utrecht. — liii. Movitz, Louis. Dutch P., the Hague ; 1773-1850. Mostert (Afostaert), Jan, Netherl. P., Haarlem ; follower of Gerard Da- vid ; b, 1474, d. after 1549. Haarlem. Moucheron, Frederick de, Dutch P., Emden ; pupil of Jan Asselyn at Amsterdam; 1633-86. Paris, Am- sterdam. Moucheron, Isaac de, Dutch P.; son and pupil of the preceding; 1670- 1744. Italy, Amsterdam. Musscher , Michiei van, Dutch P., Kotterdam ; pupil of Abr. van den Tempel, Metsu, & Adr. van Ostade ; 1645-1705. Mytens, Arnold, P., Brussels ; pupil of Anth. Santvoort (Rome) and of Corn. Pyp (Naples); 1541-1602. Mytens, Daniel Martensz, the Elder, P., the Hague ; b. 1590, d. after 1658. Mytens, Jan or Aart Jzack , P., Brussels; pupil of A. v. Opstal and N. V. d. Horst: 1612-71/72. "Sakken, Willem Karel, Dutch P., the Hague; b. 1835. Nuvez, Franqois Joseph, P., Charle- roi, pupil of Isidor & Jos. Fran- cois (Brussels), & of David (Paris) ; 1787-1839. Brussels. Neeffs, Fieier, the Elder, Flem. P., Antwerp , pupil of Ilendrik van Steenwyk; 1577 (?)- about 1657, Neeffs, Fieter, the Youngei\ Flem. P., Antwerp ; son of the last ; b. 1620, d. after 1675. Neer, Aert van der, Dutch P., Am- sterdam; 1603-77. Amsterdam. — Ixii. Neer, Eglon van der, Dutch P., Amsterdam ; son and pupil of the last, also pupil of Jacob van Loo; 1643-1703. Kotterdam, Brussels, Diisseldorf. Netscher, Caspar, Dutch P., Heidel- berg; pupil of Koster at Arnhem and of Terburs at Deventer; 1639- 84. The Hague. — Ix. Netscher, Constantyn, Dutch P., the Hasue ; pupil of his father Caspar; 1668-1722. The Hague. Nieulant, Willem van , P., Antwerp. 1584-1635. Noel, Paul Joseph, Flem. P., Waul- sort ; pupil of Herreyns ; 1789-1822. Nooms, see Zeeman. Noort , Adam van, P., Antwerp; 1557-1641. — xlvi. Noort, Lambert van. P., Amersfoort; 1520-71. Antwerp. Ochtervelt, Jacob van, Dutch P., Rot- terdam; pupil of Berchem, Metsu, and Terburg; b. before 1635, d. before 1710. Rotterdam, Amster- dam. Odevaere, Joseph Dionysius, P., Bruges; pupil of David at Paris; 1778-1830. Ommeganck, Balthasar Paul, P.