Published by Nlc Tengg & f 1 PRICE 25 CENTS VISITOR'S GUIDE AND HISTORY OF 5AN ANTONIO, TEXA5 From the Foundation (1689) to the Present Time with The 5tory of the Alamo BY CHA5. M. BARNES Fourth Edition Revised and Enlarged Published By NIC TLNGG Bookseller and Stationer Commercial Printing 220 W. COMMERCE ST. SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS [Copyright 1913] Copyright 1913 by NIC TLNGG San Antonio, Texas r-snr I ACADEMY I PACIFIC CC / HISTOFT PREFACE. Realizing that previous publications on the subjects treated herein have not been as complete as they should have been, and that there is a great demand for such work as is here presented for the perusal of the thousands who visit this city each season, this work is respectfully submitted by THE AUTHOR AND THE PUBLISHER. Grand Old 5an Antonio Character of the people, social life, numerous clubs and soci- eties, past greatness and great- er future, premier health resort, scholastic advantages, all the churches, amusements, sports, newspapers, Military Head- quarters of Department of Tex- as, Commercialiand Manufac- turing Notes, Etc. GREAT CITY OF THE 5OUTH GRAND OLD SAN ANTONIO EDUCTIVE, charming, ever old but always new, progressive, enterprising, prosperous, and presenting many opportunities for suc- cessful human endeavor, San Antonio, the city of greatest historic import of any in the Union, termed the "Sunset City" on account of the golden splendor of her skies and climate, is probably the most inter- esting of all of the Southern Cities on the North American Continent. Located in a zone where the temperature and genial climate bears favorable comparison with that of any part of the world and surpasses that of any other city in the South, she has many other attractions which cause countless thousands to visit her and see her quaint and compelling attractions and enjoy them. METROPOLIS OF THE STATE. Her's is a cosmopolitan population, where fraternize the men and women of all of the world's nations, where all of the different tongues utter all of the language spoken on both hemispheres. The costumes and cus- toms are as quaint and unique as are to be seen in any other city on the ''"footstool." The architecture is composite, blending the ancient and modern in strong and admirable contrast. Her populace exceeds in number that of any other city in the expansive State of which she is the greatest metropolis. There are now at least one hundred and fifty thousand people residing permanently in the corporate limits of San Antonio, in addition to the many thousands in her thickly populated suburbs. HER AREA. The city limits, as defined by charter, is thirty-six square miles in extent. This space is embraced in a circle whose diameter is six miles. Its center is at the old San Fernando Cathedral, one of the interesting and historic buildings, whose twin towers and moresque cupola are conspicuous and noteworthy objects. Be- yond the corporate confines are many spacious sub- divisions containing additional population enhancing the total so as to place the number of inhabitants far in excess of that of any other city in the Lone Star State. Situated in a fertile and verdant valley, watered by two splendid streams finding their source, one just beyond and the other just inside of, the city limits, her location is ideal. The streets in the city and sub- divisions exceed a thousand miles of highway, much of it in excellent condition. She has more than one hundred miles of paved and macadam streets and more are being added. These are in most cases flanked by splendid sidewalks of concrete, and others are being laid in remote as well as central portions of the city. HER ELEVATION. Ranging from over six hundred to nearly eight hun- dred feet above sea level, the lowest in the valley and the highest the summit of the hills, her altitude is suf- ficient to make her atmosphere pure and free from the humidity consequent upon lower levels and without the disadvantage incident to very high altitudes. This elevation is deemed and has been proven to be, the very best for good health, the air being perfectly pure and free from any contamination rendering her im- mune from any epidemic, unless imported disease of extraordinary character. Her people are cleanly and keep their city so. Her health authorities are efficient and vigilant, always using efficient preventive sanitary measures. -12 Her salubrious climate restores to health those af- flicted with any malady when not in the last extrem- ity of some incurable one. HER WATER. San Antonio extracts her public water supply from several hundred artesian wells having depths ranging from six hundred to over two thousand feet. The water is the purest of any to be found anywhere. Most of it is cold and free from mineral except lime, a great health-giving element. The others are mineral and thermal wells located at various places in and near the city. These latter are as efficient as the hot waters at Hot Springs or elsewhere, in curing any skin, blood, or other malady benefitted by thermal immersion. The temperature of the mineral waters range from 98 to 106 degrees Fahrenheit. Most not- able of the thermal wells are those at Terrell's San Jose addition, Dullnig's Ranch, Steve's and the Southwestern Asylum, from which latter the "Hot Wells" derives it's supply. The thermal water is im- pregnated strongly with sulphur and is tinctured with other medicinal minerals. Thousands of patients af- flicted with rheumatism and other diseases come to San Antonio and are cured by these mineral waters and remain permanently cured. Low DEATH RATE. Notwithstanding the large number of persons com- ing too late to be cured of diseases with which they are afflicted, the death rate of San Antonio is excep- tionally low, being less than any other city of her size in the Union. She has many able, learned and scien- tific physicians and surgeons who cope successfully with all of the diseases and affliction they are con- fronted with, brought to them by people coming to this Mecca of Health and security against sickness. 13 PUBLIC PARKS. No city in the world has as many public parks and breathing places as San Antonio. These range in size from small spaces of triangular and quadrangular shapes, whose sides are less than fifty feet in length, to immense forests whose boundaries contain miles of area. All of the parks are beautiful and admirably kept. Three of them, the Brackenridge, San Pedro, and Mahncke, are the most spacious, containing im- mense trees of great age and beauty, many fine plants, shrubbery and flowers. In Brackenridge Park there is a small herd of buffalo, among the last of their race, a considerable number of elk, and a greater num- ber of deer, all roaming unconfined except for the en- closure barriers. There are also numerous acquatic birds in this park, among them swans, geese and ducks, and a very large number of peacocks of magnificent plumage. There are about forty parks, all told. In San Pedro Park there are also numerous speci- mens of waterfowl, as well as fish of many varieties. Waterfowl which have been domesticated, abound at West End Lake, the largest sheet of water near the city, although Mitchell's Lake, eleven miles south, is much larger and is filled most of the year with wild waterfowls, principally ducks, geese and cranes. Game of the bird and mammal varieties are to be found in considerable quantities within short distances from the city. During the hunting seasons, much successful sport is enjoyed by the hunters and fishermen, the streams and lakes being well stocked with fish. The principal plazas or public squares of the city are parked and planted with a profusion of flowers, shrubs and trees. Palms, graceful and symetrical, sway in unison with the balmy breezes wafted over the city, while the fragrance of the roses, violets and other sweeted bloom, permeates the air and is enjoyed by all passing through or near these parks. Among the plaza parks are those in Alamo, Camden, Madison, Franklin, Main, Military, Paschal, Milam, Maverick, Travis, Washington and other plazas or public squares. One of San Antonio's greatest charms is her parks. They compare in point of size and beauty favorably with the parks of New York, Washington City or any other city in the United States, unless it be the Golden Gate Park of San Francisco, which is larger and has more trees and flowers in it than any other. Some of these parks are amusement resorts, among these being Electric, Exposition, Madarasz and others where all of the latest devices for outdoor amusement are to be found. San Antonio also has several fine baseball parks, two of them being used for professional and league team games. She also boasts a park known as "The Ostrich Farm/' where these mammoth birds are on exhibition. PUBLIC AND PRIVATE STRUCTURES. Many lofty and spacious buildings are to be found, some of them coming under the category of "sky scrapers," being many stories high. Principal among these are the office buildings, the Bedell, the Moore, Hicks, Gunter, Gibbs, Swearingen, Prudential Insur- ance, Frost and others, while among the mercantile structures of immense height and size are the Stowers, Rand, Gunter Hotel, St. Anthony Hotel, Joske, Menger Hotel, St. James Hotel and others. HOTELS AND APARTMENTS. This city contains many immense and comfortable hotel structures and buildings for boarding houses, apartments and flats. Most prominent of these are the Gunter, which is the largest, the St. Anthony, sec- ond in size, the Menger, St. James, Bexar, Maverick, Angelus, Crockett, Travis, Southern, Maverick, Alamo, Savoy hotels, Terrell, Yale, Columbia, American, Hutchins, Presnal and other flats and apartments as well as innumerable boarding, lodging and rooming houses. 15 Many of the large club house buildings also rent apartments to members and others, among them being the San Antonio, Travis, and others. There are many social organizations which own either spacious, handsome, or venerable and comforta- ble buildings, among these being the Elks, Hermann Sons, Casino, Odd Fellows, Masons, Turners, and oth- ers, while a number of others rent fine structures which they have fitted up admirably, among these being the Eagles, Moose, Owls, Catholic Knights of Columbus, Beavers, Red Men, Knights of Pythias, Woodmen of the World, Modern Woodmen and others. Among the most handsome of the public buildings are the Court House, on Main, the City Hall, on Mili- tary Plaza, the City Market House and Auditorium, on Paschal and Milam Plazas, and the Federal building on Alamo Plaza, Avenues D and E. The Court House, which is red sand stone, is of commanding appearance, the City Hall is of soft white limestone, is attractive, standing in the center of the plaza, while the Federal building, which is a replica of an old Rhenish castle and also built of limestone, is symmetrical and im- posing. Two of the railway depots, the Union, or Southern Pacific and M. K. & T. railway, and the International & Great Northern Railway stations, are large and handsome edifices. GRANDEUR OP BY-GONE DAYS. Although San Antonio is proud of present prestige and probably destined to become a greater city than she is today, she possesses the charm of past glorious grandeur that no other city in the world can hold com- parison to. There is no spot on earth where there are more objects of historic merit and none comparable to those she possesses in point of chivalric luster and sublimity. One spot alone holds the distinction of being the place where the sublimest spectacles of valor 16 ever enacted were given as examples to all posterity. Others are almost as memorable. All of them are well worthy of admiration and preservation. All of them deserve perpetuation as monuments to those who bought civilization and maintained it with their blood, but most conspicuous of them all is what is best known as the Alamo, but which was the old Franciscan Mission of San Antonio de Valero, named jointly for the Franciscan Friars who founded it and for the Spanish Viceroy, the Duke de Valero. This was a group of buildings, some of them still stand- ing on what is known as Alamo Plaza, the name Alamo being derived from the Alamos, or cottonwood trees that grew near by. ANCIENT AND MODERN BLEND. Among the quaint characteristics of this city is the blending of the ancient with the modern. The archi- tecture of composite character, comports with the cos- mopolitan population. Some of the buildings, San Fer- nando Cathedral, for instance, a portion of which was destroyed by fire in the '60's of the last century, pre- sents this spectacle, one portion being of very mod- ern architecture, while the other is that of the Mor- esque. Other buildings, both public and private, pre- sent similar characteristics, while edifices of most mod- ern architecture adjoin those of very ancient construc- tion and style. Perhaps no other city in the South, unless it be New Orleans, possesses this peculiarity. The contrast in these different styles of architecture serves to emphasize and if anything, enhance the beauty of the ancient which are not the loftiest, but the most massive and durable, most of them having withstood the storms of several centuries and ready if not replaced with cheaper and more fragile ones, to withstand those of future ages. While the architecture is interesting and quaint, the populace is still more so. The Aborigines having -17- either been succeeded or absorbed by the Latin races early in the history of the place, it is natural to expect the Spanish and French would form the principal ele- ment of the population, and it is true that those who speak the Castillian tongue do exceed in number other inhabitants, but those speaking it are not the Spanish, but the Mexican race, who predominate, and the mem- bers of it are descended principally from the Indians of Mexico or Texas. Just now, San Antonio, being a refuge for many thousands of political exiles from the Republic of Mexico, has a much greater proportion of that element of population than ever, but under ordi- nary circumstances the Mexican predominates. But the tongues of almost all of the nations of earth may be heard upon her streets, in her markets and plazas for the city is full of foreigners from everywhere on the "footstool." The costumes are as various as the tongues spoken and as kaleidoscopic as they are pictur- esque. This is another charm not visible in any other Southern city of the United States except New Orleans. Caste is also sharply defined in several nationalities and racial distinctions always closely drawn, between the Caucasian and the African. Among the Mexicans there are two well-defined castes, the Hidalgos, or Caballeros, which is the patri- cian, and the peon, or laboring class. The former always is educated and refined and generally wealthy, while the latter is ignorant and always poor and often dissolute, but always polite and obliging. SPORTS AND PASTIMES. The present pastimes of the Republic of Mexico were those which obtained in San Antonio up to less than half a century ago, and some of them are still surrep- titiously practiced. Bull fighting was formerly the great sport of the populace, but was suppressed in the early seventies of the last century. Cock fighting was then, as before, one of the main attractions and brutal spectacles of this barbarous pitting of fowls 18 against each other in deadly combat was to be wit- nessed in public on several of the days of the week, until prohibited by statute and the statute, to some ex- tent, enforced. Even now it is practiced to a greater or less extent in the strictly Mexican quarter of the city, and can be and is witnessed by those interested in such shocking spectacles. CELEBRATIONS. Celebrations of American historic and patriotic ap- niversaries by Americans in San Antonio are usually more honored in the breach than in the observance, and when such anniversaries are commemorated, they are observed by foreigners who have been naturalized. In the days when the old volunteer fire department ex- isted and flourished, its members, principally Germans, always observed the anniversary of the birth of Wash- ington. The Fourth of July is sometimes, but not regularly, celebrated by the Americans. Texans have memorial exercises at the grave of Ben R. Milam on the anniversary of the fall of the Alamo, but the Mexi- can and the Negro elements of the populace invariably celebrate, the former the anniversary of Mexican inde- pendence from Spain: "El Diez y seis de Septiembre, and "El Cinco de Mayo," the vanquishing of Maximill- ian, while the Negroes celebrate the 19th of June, which is the anniversary of the manumission of the slaves by Lincoln's proclamation, both the Mexican and the Negro celebrations having pageantry of creditable character connected with them. But possibly the greatest of the celebrations in San Antonio is that of the anniversary of the battle of San Jacinto, on April 21, or at least, it was formerly cele- brated on that day, but since the celebration has de- veloped into a season of spring festivity lasting for six days and concluding, regardless of date, with the feature of the celebration formerly allotted to the San 19 Jacinfo anniversary and known as the "Bajttl of Flowers." This celebration will be alluded to in an- other part of this guide. SAN ANTONIO is ORDERLY. Notwithstanding the cosmopolitan character of her populace, San Antonio, for her size, is an extraordi- narily orderly place. Although several hundred sa- loons exist and flourish, drunkenness is seldom seen among the pedestrians on the streets, and crime is not often encountered by the authorities. The laws are enforced, all elements of the population seem industri- ous, although, as everywhere, there are some idle and dissolute characters with whom the police have to deal and do cope with successfully. Most of the in- habitants are temperate, and most of them fortunate enough to be employed at legitimate pursuits. Of course, all of the professions are represented, but the physicians, attorneys and pastors predominate. But mercantile pursuits far outnumber the professional and in them are engaged and employed many of the city's busy thousands. Both the city and the county governments are con- ducted admirably, notwithstanding the political con- tentions and unrest incident to frequent elections. All of the officials of both branches are courteous and com- petent, administering the affairs of each respectively in an admirable manner. COMMERCE AND WEALTH. San Antonio, ever since her foundation, has been a city of commercial importance, and her people have possessed wealth. She has now eighteen banks, either National, State or private, with an aggregate capital of $10,000,000 and deposits exceeding $20,000,000. Her clearing house statements show her to stand at the head of Texas cities financially, her wealth being great and constantly increasing. While doing a large ex- 20 port trade with the Republic of Mexico, she also is the base of supply for an immense surrounding section and furnishes subsistence not only to her own and other private populations, but to thousands of soldiers of the United States army, and hundreds of thousands of visiting tourists who annually visit and spend some time here. MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. There are over two hundred manufacturing indus- tries here, giving employment to many artisans and laborers and distributing wealth and products about a large area of territory. But notwithstanding those already here, there is still room for other successful manufactures to be established. Among thoso *hat would prove profitable and utilize the natural raw pro- ducts of this region, are cotton and woolen factories and mills, tanneries, shoe factories, hat factories, pa- per mills, utilizing the fibre of the cacti, fruit preserv- ing plants, and various others, too numerous to men- tion. OIL, COAL AND GAS. Recent discoveries of crude oil in the immediate vi- cinity of San Antonio establish the fact that there is a supply of that mineral liquid that is likely to satisfac- torily solve the fuel problem. Such discoveries also show the field not to be confined to a single locality, but /to extend for considerable distance in various quarters. Coal in considerable quantities is also found compar- atively close to this city, and furnishes economical fuel. Wherever coal and oil exist it is more than likely that natural gas exists. It has been struck here, although thus far in small quantity, but there is strong hope of its being found in abundant supply to answer all the needs of this city, it haying been se- cured at neighboring cities. This Us likely to add greatly to San Antonio's value as a manufacturing city, as well as a desirable residence locality. 21- EDUCATIONAL FACILITIES AND ADVANTAGES. This city is admirably equipped with educational features, facilities and possesses many advantages in such regard. Besides the liberal funds set aside by the State and derived from the sale of public lands, the State has an immense school fund derived from scholastic taxation, both State and municipal. A tax sufficient to yield $5 per capita is levied and collected by the State and cities and is spent on the education of the pupils of the county and city public schools in Texas. In San Antonio there are over thirty public schools, which includes two high schools, and the standard of education here is high, ranking favorably with that of any city in the Union. In those thirty city public schools there are 344 teachers, whose salaries aggregate $300,- 000 per annum, and they instruct 14,434 pupils. The city school board has recently expended the sum of $70,- 000 for a new school building on Prospect Hill and the county commissioners have recently erected a new county public school on Alamo Heights, of handsome design. PRIVATE SCHOOLS. In addition to the city and county public schools in San Antonio and Bexar county, there are thirty-one private schools in San Antonio and surrounding sub- divisions, with a total daily attendance of not less than 5,000 pupils. Various religious denominations, among them the Catholic, Episcopal, Lutheran, Baptist, Methodist and Jewish, have established and maintain educational in- stitutions, enjoying large patronage, many pupils com- ing from Mexico and other distant localities. Prominent among these educational institutions are the Ursuline Convent, Lady of the Lake Convent, In- carnate Word Convent, St. Theresa's and St. Mary's parochial schools, St. Joseph's, St. John's and St. Peter Clavier Catholic schools, St. Mary's and St. Louis Col- leges ,the Seminary of the Oblate Fathers for the edu- cation of the Catholic clergy. St. Mary's Hall, or the Bishop Elliott's Memorial Institute, Dr. Harrison's San Antonio Academy and School for Young Ladies, Bon Avon, Peacock's and West Texas Military Acade- my, and there are numerous other educational institu- tions, affording excellent opportunities for the educa- tion of the young. RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS. San Antonio is equally rich in religious institutions. Almost all denominations are represented, having con- gregations and nearly all of them their own places of worship. The seats of the sees of several faiths are located here. The Catholic, Episcopal and Methodist Bishops reside in San Antonio, these being Bishops Shaw, Johnston and Muzon. The Catholics have fifteen churches and chapels, in- cluding their Cathedral, San Fernando, these all being inside the city limits, and several others in the suburbs nearby and including the old Franciscan Missions in which the ceremony of the mass is celebrated. The Episcopalians f have, including their cathedral of St. Mark's, eight 'churches, chapels and missions in the city limits and several in the subdivisions beyond. The Methodists have eighteen churches, chapels and missions. The Baptists have ten churches, chapels, etc., while the Presbyterians have ten, the Campbell- ites, or Christians, five, the Lutherans five, Christian Scientists, Evangelists and other Christian denomina- tions each have churches, and the Israelites have three temples, or places of worship. These do not include the Negro churches. The Negroes are represented in various religious denominations, but, principally in the Baptist and Methodist. They have located, in dif- ferent parts of the city, a dozen or more of their churches which are to be found always well filled. FRATERNAL ORGANIZATIONS. All of the leading fraternal organizations are rep- resented in San Antonio. The Masonic owns its tem- ple and contemplates erecting a Scottish Rite temple. Both the Scottish and the York Rite branches of Masonery are represented. The Odd Fellows have two lodges, one of them, San Antonio No. 11, owns its own building, as do the Sons of Hermann, which has nu- merous lodges. The Red Men, Eagles, Owls, Elks, Moose, Pythians, Woodmen and various other frater- nal bodies, hold regular meetings here, and most of them have considerable membership and wealth. Many of them have female branches or auxiliaries, which also have regular meetings. SOCIAL ORGANIZATIONS. In addition to the fraternal organizations which have social features, there are numerous strictly social or- ganizations, and some patriotic and social associations, combining considerable membership and great activity. Of these may be mentioned the United Confederate Veterans, Daughters of the Confederacy, Daughters of the Texas Republic, Grand Army of the Republic, Wo- men's Relief Corps, Colonial Dames, Women's Club, San Antonio Press Club, Bohemian Scribblers, Auth- ors' Club, San Antonio Club, Casino, Turn Verein, Beethoven Maennerchor, San Antonio Schutzenverein, Travis Club, Catholic Knights' Club, Country Club, Au- tomobile Club, Scientific Society, three volunteer mili- tary organizations, as well as the British, French, Irish, Poles, German, Schweitzer and Mexican social and benevolent associations, all having considerable membership. PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. San Antonio has numerous places of public amuse- ment. Among these are the theaters, these being the 24 Grand Opera House, Beethoven Hall, The Plaza, Ma- jestic, Orpheum, Princess, Royal, Empire, Star, and too many motion picture drama resorts to enumerate. For intellectual recreation and research the Carnegie Library is open every day and night and interesting lectures are given there. PUBLIC FESTIVITIES. Besides those previously mentioned, the French col- ony celebrates the fall of the Bastille on July 14 every year with appropriate ceremonies and exercises, but the greatest public festivities are those incident to the Fiesta San Jacinto, or Spring Carnival, and its con- comitant pageantry, culminating in the parade and "Flower Battle." In this pageant numerous civic and military organizations participate. Many vehicles of various character are handsomely decorated and these handsome equipages contain beautiful women and girls garbed in gala attire, the scene forming a poem of color and beauty challenging admiration. This festival, which occurs in the Spring and gen- erally during the latter part of the month of April, at- tracts thousands of visitors to the city in addition to the ordinary population and from a commercial, as well as an artistic and social standpoint, is always a great success. This celebration has been the means of widely ad- vertising San Antonio, her Spring Carnival being al- most as well and favorably known as the New Orleans Mardi Gras carnivals. A RAILROAD CENTER. .... San Antonio has six railroads running into and out of the city and has connections with six others. Those reaching the city are the Southern Pacific, In- ternational & Great Northern, Aransas Pass, Missouri, Kansas & Texas, San Antonio & Gulf, and San An- tonio, Uvalde & Gulf, while those connecting with 25 these lines are the Frisco, Cotton Belt, St. Louis, Brownsville & Mexico, Artesian Belt, St. Louis & Iron Mountain, and Texas & Pacific, which reach here through those connecting directly with the city. Ex- tensions and other railways will very probably reach San Antonio shortly. A new road to connect her with Fredericksburg and intervening territory is being built and completion expected this summer, while an English syndicate is figuring on building another rail- way from San Antonio to the Mexican Gulf, propos- ing terminals at Port Aransas and Corpus Christi. San Antonio's railway connections, both present and future, render her an important railway center, those already in operation adding greatly to her com- merce and wealth and furnishing competitive trans- portation facilities. All of the roads centering here have Mexican- con- nections, two of them going directly to the Mexican border and one of these reaching it at two different points. NEWSPAPERS AND OTHER PUBLICATIONS. San Antonio has numerous periodicals and publica- tions. Among her daily papers are the Express, a morning publication, which also has a semi-weekly edition, is Independent Democratic; Light-Gazette, an afternoon paper, Independent in politics, and the Freie Presse Fur Texas, printed in German, weekly and In- dependent in in politics. Among the weekly publications are the Southern Messenger (Catholic), Texas Staatz Zeitung, Dis- patch (Labor Organ), El Regidor, El Imparcial, El Latigo, Katholische Rundschau, Texas Stockman and Farmer, Railroad World, and a patent inside or syndi- cate service for various weekly publications. While the monthly magazines are the Texas Field and National Guardsman, Investor and Southwest Farmer, Texas Free Mason, The Texas Baptist and others. 26 All of these possess literary value, as well as con- siderable circulation. San Antonio has always been considered a city of intellectuality and culture, and this fact is evidenced in her publications. 27 San Antonio's History From its original foundation in 1689 to the present time, with all interesting details involved in the tragic 5TORY OF THE ALAMO FOUR TEXAN HEROES SAN ANTONIO'5 HISTORY TRIFE and peace have succeeded each other and alternated as far back as the history of San Antonio can be traced. The flags of six different Nations have floated over her citadel, some of them several times. But long before the standard of any civilized Nation waved above her battlements and buildings she was under the sway of mankind. Her aboriginal inhabitants were of the type which characterized North and Central America, but it is difficult to say which particular tribe was the first to congregate here, for the reason that those aborigines, all known under the indefinite term of Indians, were nomadic and wandered over vast regions, their prin- cipal quest being the wild game of the plains, the prai- ries and the forests. But that many came and lin- gered here long, if not indefinitely, is probable from the fact that until long after the coming of the white man, game abounded in this immediate environment and in quantities sufficient to sustain very many o them. Even the very earliest inhabitants possessed some civilization. They constructed habitations of a per- manent character, fashioning them from sun-dried bricks, or adobe, and thatching them with the thule, or flags, growing in profusion along the streams and sheets of water hereabouts, and supplementing the structural work with rough ashler stone broken from strata along the water courses, this being soft lime- stone, hardening after exposure to the atmosphere. The settlements in this immediate vicinity were quite populous, and there seems to have been several of them, one each located at the headwaters of the 30 San Antonio and San Pedro streams, another at the head of the Leon, some twenty miles above, and oth- ers in adjacent and surrounding localities, wherever there was an abundance of flowing water. These aborigines seem to have been somewhat skilled in the making and burning of pottery, as well as the shaping of flint stone into arrow and spear heads. Likewise they knew the value of precious minerals and metals, and made ornaments of gold and silver. They even understood the fashioning of useful articles from copper, although their work was crude and coarse. Specimens have been found in mounds and caves wherein the corpses of the early inhabitants were buried with their possessions, as was their cus- tom, these specimens showing quite a large number of articles for domestic or warfare use, as well as for ornamentation. Some of the inhabitants dwelt in excavations made into the sides of eminences or cliffs along the water courses, some of which are still to be seen in the vicinity of the head of the San Antonio River, while others dwelt in the many spacious caves found in this vicinity, notable near Leon Springs. In these speci- mens of pottery, sculpture of crude character and articles of stone, for hostile use, have been found. It is not only possible, but very probable, that the early inhabitants were of Aztec (or Tpltec) ancestry or origin, and that as their numbers increased their settlements spread until they included what now com- prises portions of the city limits of San Antonio that were afterward taken over by the foreign invaders. One tribe of Indians, a large and very powerful one, known as the Natchez, or Netche, ranged from the Rio Grande to the Mississippi Rivers, and included numerous subdivisions, the principal one of which was the Tejas, or Texas Indians, from which it is claimed the State derives its name, and whose central settlements were about where San Antonio is now. There are various definitions given the term "Texas," -31 but the generally accepted one is that of "Paradise," or "Eden," probably the epithet used by the aboriginal discoverers when they found this seductive region and the then limpid and superabundant waters flowing from the various springs and forming the many streams hereabouts. The term seems subsequently to have been applied to the aboriginal inhabitants. San Antonio then, in all likelihood, could well have been alluded to as either an "Eden" or a "Para- dise." COMING OF THE CONQUISTADORES. The term "Tejas" is said to have been used in the sense of a welcome greeting given by the original in- habitants found here to the Conquistadores from Spain and by the latter used as a name for the inhabitants. Alonzo de Leon was the first foreigner known to have visited here. This was in the year 1670, and it was on May 15th of that year that, in the name of his master the King of Spain, he took formal possession of it, he and his train having been received with hos- pitality and courtesy by those then dwelling here. De Leon had in his train some Franciscan Friars, headed by the Padre Damien Marquenet, and to them is ascribed the founding of the first Catholic Mission and civilized settlement, San Francisco, or San Fer- nando de Tejas, at the head springs of the San Pedro. This fact is disputed, although this locality is the most logical one to have been then selected, the In- dians then being friendly and the water supply abundant. After the coming of De Leon the next advent of Spaniards was that of Don Domingo de Terran de Los Keyes, who was the Governor of the State of Texas and Coahuila, who is said to have been compelled, on account of hostility of the aboriginal inhabitants, to have the original mission abandoned and removed. Terran did not tarry long after establishing, together 32 with other Franciscian Friars, another mission which they called San Francisco de la Espada, or St. Francis of the Sword. It was Don Jose de Ramon who planted the first permanent settlement here, re-establishing the aban- doned mission at the head of the San Pedro, and call- ing it the Mission of San Antonio de Valero. He also established the Presidio, or fort of San Antonio, making it the capital of the province of Be jar, or Bexar, the Mission of San Antonio de Valero, or the Alamo, being subsequently removed to the present lo- cation on Alamo Plaza, where it acquired the distinc- tion of being one of the most famous places in the history of chivalry. Soon after settlements by the Spaniards and Fran- ciscan priests, became numerous about the site of this city. La Villita, or the small settlement on the south side of the river was established and there were sev- eral other Pueblos, or settlements, subsequently es- tablished, but it appears almost incontrovertible that the Pueblo de los Indies, or Indian settlement, at the head of the San Pedro and known as the Spanish settlement of San Antonio de Valero, was the first, or nucleus, of all others. Early official reports made by the Viceroy of Spain in Mexico dated in December, 1693, confirm this and have not been controverted. FIRST ROAD BUILDING. The French, under St. Denis came here, construct- ing a military road from Presidio to San Antonio in 1714, civilization expanding, notwithstanding the fre- quent and sanguinary struggles for possession between Spain and France, in which ultimately Spain tri- umphed, to be herself vanquished by Mexico. The pious and famous Franciscan Padre, Antonio Marjil, came out from Castille with a band of mis- sionaries and established the other Catholic missions hereabouts and the Indians were rapidly brought un- der civilization and flourishing communities followed. These different missions will be alluded to in other parts of this guide. THE CANARY COLONY. The next advent of Spaniards grew out of a visit of the Marquis de Casa Fuerte, or Strong House, a Mex- ican Viceroy of Spain, who became interested in the locality and was so favorably prepossessed with it that he induced his monarch to send oat a colony from the Canary Islands, consisting of the heads of thirteen different families and three widows, all of noble lineage and entitled to be known as the grandees of Spain, and the males to the prefix of Don to their names. They came here at the conclusion of hostilities between Spain and France, in 1733, at which time the two royal houses of Spain and Austria had blended, the Marquis de Aguyo had been replaced by a newly created Duke de Be jar and Viceroy. The name of the place was changed to San Antonio de Be jar, and the citadel to San Fernando de Austria, in honor of Fer- dinand III, the King of Spain. Among those who constituted these colonists were the three widows, Donna Maria de Betancourt, Donna Josefa Garza, and Donna Maria Rodriguez, the broth- ers De Armas, all bachelors, two men named Juan Leal, one known as Alvarez and the other Goraz, Juan Curbelo de Los Santos, Manuel de Niz, Antonio and Juan Rodriguez, Salvador Rodriguez, Jose Padron, Jose Cabrero and Maria Rodriguez, widow of Juan Cabrera, Mariana Melanado, Francisco de Arocha, Vicente Alvarez Travieso, Juan Delgado, Jose Antonio Perez, Maria Rodriguez de Grandillo. Shortly after the arrival of these and their being awarded grants of land in and around San Antonio, also came the families of Losoyo, Cervantes, relatives of the author of Don Quixote, Pena, Del Valle, Caravajal, Hernan- dez, Nunez, Valdez, Musquiz, Montez de Ocha, Garcia, 34- Urutea, Menchaca, Chavez, Barrera, Musquiz, Yturri, Gortari, Villareal, De Zavala, Saucedo, Saenz, Zambra- no, Rivas and others, and still later the family of Jose Cassini, Italians, who changed their names to Cassia- no, a Spanish name, one of whom married the widow of the former Governor, Antonio Cordero. Previous to the coming of the Canary Islanders the city had been laid out, but in a very irregular manner. The streets and plazas had been defined and named. THE FIRST CITY CHARTER. The first city charter was granted to this city in 1733 by the Spanish crown. The place then had a regular garrison of 117 Spanish soldiers, commanded by Don Antonio de Almazon, whose army rank was that of captain. The seat of government then was on Military Plaza, the barracks of the soldiers being ranged along the north side, while the civil and military officials had their offices and quarters on the west side of that plaza. The east side was given over to the Catholic clergy and the south side to settlers. BLENDED COATS OF ARMS. In the edifices on the west side of Military Plaza, in which the Governor, or his representatives, was quartered, is still to be seen carved into the keystone of the flat arch above the portal the blended coats of arms of Spain and Austria, this place having been the official residence of Governor Don Antonio Cordero, who was deposed and is said to have been beheaded, while others claim that he escaped and resided in Mexico until he died a natural death. No Americans settled in San Antonio for nearly a century after the coming of the Canary Islanders. The first ones seen here were survivors of an expedi- tion headed by the Irishman, Captain Phillip Nolan. 35 The American Explorer, Zebulon Pike, visited here in 1807, and was entertained by the authorities. He reported finding then a settlement of two thousand persons, principally Spaniards and Indians. AN EARLY REVOLUTION. While prior to that time there had been several minor insurrections, and some executions for disloyalty to Spain, it is probable that the first revolution of any great importance was that headed by a cer- tain Captain Juan Bautista Casas, at that time one of the officers of the Garrison, whose cause was support- ed by the soldiers who mutinied, seizing and incarcer- ating the commander, Col. Don Manuel Saucedo, and Lieut. Col. Simon Herera, both of whom had been Spanish Governors here, and confining them in the Mission of San Antonio de Valero, or the Alamo. Later he sent them to Laredo under guard. Casas sent expeditions to La Bahia anl Nacogdoches Mis- sions to arrest the garrison commanders there, but meanwhile offended the Catholic clergy, one of whom, Father Juan Manuel Zambrano, organized a revolu- tion against him at a junta or secret meeting of the prominent citzens of the Pueblo, among those at this meeting being himself, chosen president, Jose Antonio Saucedo, secretary, Ignacio Perez, Miguel Musquiz, Antonio Saenz, Luciano Garcia, Erasmo Seguin, Louis Galan, Manuel Barera, Vicente Gortari, Gabino Del- gado, and Juan Jose Zambrano, who after two months' effort, secretly secured the support of the soldiers, who had become disgusted at the conduct of Casas. The latter was apprehended on a charge of treason and placed in the same prison where he had first in- carcerated Hereta and Saucedo. On May 14 of that year he was arraigned before a summary military tribunal, but succeeded in having his case transferred to Monclova, Mexico, where in June, 1811, he was placed on trial, convicted and condemned to die as a traitor by being shot in the back. He was so executed, 36 after which his head was severed from the body and brought here and displayed from the top of a tall pole in the center of Military Plaza where the City Hall now stands. His estate was confiscated. THE MAGEE EXPEDITION. The next active hostility was that of the Magee expedition, when under the leadership of a Major Kempner, a body of invaders attacked and defeated the garrison under General Saucedo, who marched out to meet them and came in contact on the Rosillo creek, this engagement having been known as the Battle of the Rosillo. Following close upon this en- gagement was the murder of loyal Spanish and other citizens by Delgado. THE ATTACK AT THE ALAZAN. The next engagement grew out of the Mexican revolution against Spain by the Priest, Hidalgo, who lost his life, but whose cause finally prevailed. The Mexican and foreign citizens here revolted and the Spanish General, Elisondo, was sent, in June, 1813, to take from them the city and made a demand upon them formally to surrender it within twenty-four hours. During the night an American, Captain Perry, organized a force with Captains Menchaca and Gu- tierez, who while the Spanish forces were alseep, secretly crept upon, attacked and almost annihilated them on the banks of the Alazan, killing and wounding many and taking the others prisoners, but a small remnants of the Spaniards, with their leader, being able to escape and make their way back to Mexico. This victory made the American and Mexican par- ticipants overconfident. Another expedition was or- ganized against them by the Spaniards in August of that same year, headed by the Spanish General, Ar- redondo and aided by Elisondo and a stronger force than the preceding expedition. 37 It camped on the Medina, forming an ambuscade, V-shaped, into which the San Antonians incautiously marched, making the mistake of attacking outside in- stead of awaiting attack in their own city and strong- hold, which could easily have been held by concerted effort. The local forces were commanded by General To- ledo, and Colonel Perry was second in command. There were 300 Americans and 600 Mexicans to combat a force nearly thrice their number. The combat was short, sharp and decisive. The local force was routed and fled in confusion back to the city, followed by the victors who only halted long enough on the banks of the Medina to execute 170 prisoners by summarily shooting them. On entering San Antonio Arredondo arrested 300 male and 400 female inhabitants, the women being either the wives or other relatives of the revolution- ists who had fought the Spaniards. The male prison- ers were crowded so closely into a single structure that 18 of them perished from suffocation the same night. He also summarily executed a number of oth- ers. The women were subjected to many insults and indignities and were, a large number of them, impris- oned in a quaint old structure known as the "Quinta" on Dwyer Avenue, and which was afterward the first Texas postoffice. There the women were compelled to shell, grind and make into "tortillas," or corn cakes, 24 bushels of corn per day for food for Arredondo's soldiers. Finally one of the women prisoners rebelled at an insult offered her personally by Arredondo and offered to fight a duel with him. One of the Spanish priests then interceded on behalf of the women and they were released, but not before an attack had been made on the soldiers guarding the Quinta, several of whom were thrown into the river flowing back of it and drowned. Ultimately all prisoners were released, but the property of many of them was confiscated and numerous lawsuits have grown out of titles to 38 property involved in these confiscations, the most notable one of which was the case known as the "Sa- briego" suit. The Mexicans triumphed in Mexico over the Span- iards and inaugurated a government of their own which brought San Antonio under its domination. No more hostilities occurred here from that time except defenses against hostile Indians, until the revolution of the Texans against the Mexicans. AUSTIN'S COLONY. Moses Austin, who had been given a grant of land by the Mexican government, undertook to establish a colony for its settlement and cultivation. He endeav- ored under his grant to locate it, but the Mexican au- thorities, regarding with suspicion the advent of Amer- icans, caused Austin for a time to forego his enter- prise. Later the Baron of Bastrop, who had been given a similar grant, joined Austin in the undertak- ing, but unfortunately Moses Austin died before ac- complishing his purpose. He was succeeded by his son, Stephen Fuller Austin, and the colony came to Texas the latter part of 1821. It located near where Brenham, in Washington County, now is and not very far from the old town of Washington. PERSECUTIONS BY MEXICANS. The colonists were persecuted, harrassed and insult- ed by the Mexicans, who overtaxed them exorbitantly, seized their arms, leaving them defenseless among hos- tile Indians, with whom the Mexicans were in league. The Austinites were so goaded that they determined to resist future oppression. Meanwhile Santa Anna, the Mexican dictator, had overthrown the Constitu- tional government of Mexico, under whose grants the Austinites were operating and under whose flag they were marshaled as "Constitutionalists." Up to that time there had been no attempt and probably no in- tention, of establishing a separate government, but the success of Santa Anna left them no option. San Antonio had ceased to be the capital, which had been changed back to Coahuila and next to Saltillo. This caused those having business with the assessor of taxes to travel over 600 miles, during all of which time they were exposed to attack by Indians, who, during a period of less than ten years had murdered nearly 100 persons traveling between this city and points in Mexico. BOWIE BRINGS HOPE. Among the early American settlers was James Bowie, an adventurer, a man of handsome appear- ance, engaging manners, and of superior personal courage, who had not been long here before he won the affection and secured the hand of Ursulla Vera- mendi, the beautiful daughter of Juan Martin de Ver- amendi, the dominant governor. Bowie was a native of Tennessee, but had made his home prior to coming to Texas with his brother, Resin P. Bowie, at Natchez, Mississippi. Both of the Bowies seem to have been lured here by a quest for an old abandoned gold and silver mine, said to be located not far from where the town of San Angelo now is. They vainly sought it, were attacked by Indians, and had to fight their way, which they did successfully, back to San Antonio. Bowie's brother Resin, returned to Mis- sissippi, but James Bowie remained here. When the Texas revolution broke out he joined the forces of Austin, was given a commission of Colonel and en- listed the support of his illustrious father-in-law, but unfortunately Governor Veramendi was recalled to Mexico and superceded by Barera. Bowie's wife ac- companied her father, and both she and her father died of an epidemic of either smallpox or cholera. 40 SANTA ANNA BECOMES Vicious. The tyrant, Santa Anna, meanwhile had become very vicious and oppressive. Hating the American colo- nists, he issued orders for the arrest and imprisonment of William Barret Travis, I. M. Carvajahl, R. M. Wil- liamson, Morley Baker, Francis W. Johnson, Jose Zam- brano and Lorenzo de Zavala, who had especially in- curred his displeasure. De Zavalla was a Spaniard. He was the first vice president of the Texas Republic and the grandfather of Miss Adina de Zavala, a patri- otic San Antonio lady, who has endeavored to save from destruction historic structures and landmarks that have either been destroyed or threatened with de- struction. Ugartachea was the Mexican general in command of San Antonio when the Texans first banded together and remained in command until he was succeeded here in command by the brother-in-law of Santa Anna, De Cos. Active hostilities between the Constitutionalists and the Dictator's forces were precipitated by De Cos soon after his arrival. FIRST CLASH AT GONZALES. The people of Gonzales had a small brass cannon, known as a "four-pounder," that being the weight of the ball it chambered. This they had used successfully in defense against the Indians for some time. De Cos sent a strong detachment f rom- San Antonio to Gon- zales after this piece of artillery. This detachment halted on the opposite bank of the river and sent over a demand for the cannon. This demand was refused defiantly and the soldiers sent for it were told to "come and take it if they could." They attempted to do so, but were repulsed and fled promptly back from whence they came, reporting to Cos their disaster. This was the first act of open rebellion by the Constitutionalists, but it committed them to a campaign of hostilities and 41 forced the resolution to attempt to take San Antonio from Santa Anna's soldiery, which, numbering about 3000, then garrisoned this city. Against it were 600 men. Austin organized in Octo- ber, 1835, for this purpose. They were placed under the joint command of Colonel James Bowie and Cap- tain J. W. Fannin. They marched to the old Mission Espada and went into camp, from whence they sent a flag of truce to Cos to demand his capitulation. De Cos was expecting reinforcements and already had a much superior force, so he refused to recognize the messengers of Austin. This refusal caused almost im- mediate warfare. BOWIE'S FIRST BATTLE. Cos had sent a strong force of cavalry towards the camp of Austin's command. They had reached and bivouacked at the Mission Concepcion. On October 28, a small force of only ninety men had been sent by Aus- tin under Bowie and Fannin to reconnoiter. On the morning of that day they found themselves surrounded by the Mexicans, who also had two cannon. The Mexi- cans demanded immediate and unconditional surrend- er. Bowie sternly refused. He issued the command to his men to charge and attack. This surprised the Mexicans completely. In the fierce encounter which followed, 60 of the 400 Mexicans were killed outright and 40 wounded, while but one of the Texans, Richard Andrews, was slain, and only seven wounded. Leaving their cannon, throwing down their arms and other impediments, the Mexicans fled. Later the Mexicans were permitted, under a flag of truce, to remove their dead and wounded. Both opposing forces remained inactive for nearly a month, Cos still await- ing reinforcements, although he had men enough, properly handled, to have exterminated the Texans. THE GRASS FIGHT. Ever on the alert to intercept the reinforcements expected by the Mexicans, the Constitutionalists kept watch outside of the city. On November 26 they saw a considerable force of soldiers, about 100 in number, sent out to cut grass for forage for Mexican horses. In the grey dawn enveloping them, the Constitution- alists mistook those for the expected reinforcements coming to Cos, fell upon them suddenly and unexpect- edly and chased them into a ravine. Cos sent out re- inforcements from the city to succor them, the latter forces greatly exceeding the Constitutionalists, who again were victorious, suffering the loss of a single soldier killed and but two wounded, while the Mexicans had fifty killed and a large number wounded. AUSTIN RETIRES. Stephen F. Austin had been given a commission by the United States Government and resigned his com- mand, being at the time quite ill. He retired and Ed- ward Burleson, a brave and brilliant man, succeeded to the command of the Constitutionalist force. Burle- son believed that to attack De Cos in San Antonio would have been folly and had resolved to await reinforce- ments that were expected to come from New Orleans and other cities and States, two companies, the Tigers and Louisiana Grays, already being with his command. But the inactivity in the Constitutional camp bred dis- cord. Many of the troops openly announced unless an attack was made upon San Antonio very soon, that they would march from the field. Bowie, Burleson and others endeavored to dissuade them and for a time seemed to succeed, but Samuel A. Maverick, Erasmus (Deaf) Smith and Johnson came from San Antonio into camp, which then had been changed to the Old Molino Blanco, or White Mill, located on the San An- tonio river, near Oakland street, on property now owned by H. P. Drought. These messengers brought tidings that gave hope of success and Ben Milam, who, up to then had been rather an inconspicuous figure in the ranks, arose and began a spirited and stirring ha- rangue, concluding with the famous sentence: "Who Will Follow Old Ben Milam Into San Antonio?" More than two-thirds of the force responded by sur- rounding him and declaring their intention of joining him. This was on December 3, 1835, and instant prep- aration for the attack was made. Burleson still deemed it rash, but was overridden. He finally acquiesced, but gave the lead to Milam, Morris, Maverick and Johnson, who proceeded at once to marshal the force which was finally augmented by the entire organiza- tion joining. But a small portion was held in reserve at the mill, while the attacking force moved in three col- umns. Milam and Major Morris moved west of the river, while Johnson's command moved east of it and towards the Alamo Mission, to make a feint attack, while the main body was attacking the principal por- tion of the city. The attack, although sudden, was not entirely unexpected. The resistance was stern and stubborn. The Constitutionalists had to fight their way from house to house. Morris and Milam, who had captured the Garza House, were to effect a junction at Veramendi Palace on Soledad street. On December 7, Milam, with Maverick at his side, had reached the Veramendi, when he was killed by a shot fired by a sharpshooter stationed either in a tall cypress tree overlooking the place or on the roof of a building near- by. Milam fell into Maverick's arms and expired. He was carried into the Veramendi and his death kept secret from all except those who had witnessed it. Cos was also ignorant of it. He had retreated to the east side of the river, into La Vilita, and had taken up his headquarters there, still vainly expecting reinforce- ments. Victory was achieved as Milam fell. The acclama- tions of his men were the last sounds heard by Mi- lam as he sank into the slumber of death. Cos sur- rendered to Johnson and Morris. He was permitted to retire with his force and their arms on condition that he would not again contend against the Texans. He did not keep his pledge, as subsequent recitals will show. Milam was secretly buried near where he fell. His body remained in its first grave for twelve years when it was removed to its present last resting place near the center of Milam Square. There it was re- buried with the rites of the Masonic fraternity of which he had been a member, this funeral being on a very cold day when there had been a considerable snow fall. COMING OF CROCKETT. Travis, Bowie and Bonham were in San Antonio. Fannin had gone to Goliad and had taken quarters with his command in the old Mission La Bahia. Bur- leson, Jack and other prominent personalities in the capture of San Antonio had gone among them. Mave- rick and Juan Antonio Navarro, the two latter having been sent as delegates to the convention to be held in Washington, de Zavala being there already. This left an inconsequential force to garrison San Antonio and hold it against attack. News of the approach of a large force of Mexicans had been received here and transmitted to General Sam Houston, who had become the commander-in-chief of the Texas forces and was at Gonzales. On receiv- ing it and learning the strength of the approaching in- vading force Houston sent orders to Travis, who was in command at San Antonio, to evacuate the place and join him. About this time David Crockett, a former Tennessee Congressman and a very picturesque character ar- rived, taking up his quarters with the garrison, whom he joined. Crockett was given a command and fre- quently made stirring speeches, being a natural ora- tor. Travis' force was then occupying the barracks formerly used by the Mexicans and Spaniards on Mili- tary and Main Plazas. Meanwhile Houston evacuated Gonzales and with his army retreated east of the Colorado river, and some of those who had been at Gonzales with Hous- ton, twenty-seven in number, left Gonzales and march- ed into the Alamo mission to which the Texans had moved, driving with them sixty beeves and carrying considerable corn, some artillery and its ammunition in limited quantity and some powder and lead. The old chapel, or church, was used for a magazine. Arched openings in the Monastery portion were closed and it was used as a barracks. Cannon were placed within the enclosure, upon the roof of the Monastery and one of the Southwestern portions of the Chapel roof which part had not previously fallen in. Two other cannon were placed on platforms inside the church at the eastern extremity. Green B. Jemison, who had previously been an en- sign in the United States Navy, planned the defenses, closed the openings most likely to be breeched and di- rected the engineering work, sending to General Sam Houston a plat of his proposed defenses. STORY OP THE 'ALAMO'S SIEGE AND FALL. Santa Anna had drawn closer and closer to the doomed defenders. His forces came in two columns, one from Laredo, where they had crossed the Rio Grande, headed by himself, and the other from Mata- moras, from where they had crossed that stream. San- ta Anna's combined troops effected a junction near the Concepcion Mission and marched into San Antonio over the ford at the foot of Navarro street, going into the western portion of the city, reaching here near sundown on February 22nd, 1836. Santa Anna made his headquarters in the old Yturri building at the northeast corner of Main Ave- 46 nue and Main Plaza and hoisted his flag over the San Fernando Cathedral dome, then the loftiest edifice in that section of the city. He sent a message to Travis to unconditionally surrender, giving him six hours within which to do so, and to get all non-combatants out of the Alamo Mission. Travis' immediate reply was a well directed shot from the cannon he personal- ly commanded. This shot struck and knocked down the flag that Santa Anna had ordered hoisted on the San Fernando church, greatly incensing the dictator, who replaced it with a black flag. Meanwhile Travis wrote a proclamation, which he had read to his men, in which he announced his determination to remain where he was and perish if succor did not come to him. He stepped out in front of his men. With his sword he drew a line, saying: "All who will stay with me, step forward over this line. All who wish to leave remain where they are." All crossed over but one. Bowie directed that the cot on which he was, be carried over to where Travis was, Bowie being too weak to rise from it and walk over. The only one who failed to follow to Travis' side of the line was a person named Rose, who during the night was let out of a window, which was opened and quickly closed be- hind him. Rose was never afterward heard from, and it is highly probable he fell into the hands of Mexican soldiers watching the place and perished at their hands. Crockett is said to have urged Rose to re- main, fight and die with the others. Up to that time Rose had fought bravely as any of the rest and it was a surprise to his companions when Rose failed to cross over with them. The siege was hard and fierce, only interrupted by short periods of rest during which the firing on both sides ceased for brief spells, when the defenders were too exhausted to reload and fire and had to sleep. But always the defenders were on guard, watching their defenses and exposed portions. During the night of Saturday, March 5, Santa Anna called a council of 47 all of his staff commanders and announced to them that at dawn of the following morning the final as- sault would be made, and that no quarter was to be shown to any adult male found in the garrison group. During several preceeding days he had permitted false information of a threatened attack to reach the garri- son, so as to keep them awake and to exhaust them. Travis and his men had but scant rest during the ten days they were defending the place. On Sunday morning with bands playing the "Deguillo" or "No Quarter" air, and flags flying, Santa Anna's troops marched in full force. Thrice they had assailed the place and been hurled back after the Tolucca battalion had made a breech in the north wall of the enclosure adjoining the Monastery on the northwest corner of that structure. Scaling ladders had been applied and those of the Mexicans who had manned them had fall- en back dead under the true aim of the defenders. Santa Anna personally urged and swore at his men. Travis was killed by a musket ball just as he had fired the last charge he had from his cannon as he exhausted his ammunition. He fell dead athwart his cannon on the Monastery roof. BONHAM DIED NEAR HIM. For an hour and a half the unequal struggle lasted. But the ammunition of the defenders, both for can- non and small arms, was then exhausted. Even then with their rifles clubbed, with beams and whatever other weapons they could wield, knives, swords or anything they could secure, they fought to the last. The women and children and some fifteen or twenty of the men sought refuge in the church into which Bowie's cot had been carried, and it was there the last stand was made after Crocket had perished in the open space between the Monastery and the church and almost in front of the church door, falling at the top of a heap of Mexican soldiers whom he had slain with his clubbed rifle. He was shot by one of the Mexi- 48 cans just as he was dealing a death blow to another. Bowie died fighting on his cot, using his famous knife, made from a file, after exhausting all of his pis- tol ammunition. Lieutenant Dickenson, of the United States army, who with his wife and child, was in the Alamo, was among those who perished in the church, these two, Bowie and he, being the only ones of prom- inence known to have died in the church. Within twenty minutes after the Mexicans had effected an entrance into the church after killing all of the oth- ers in and about the Monastery and other portions of the church of the Mission premises, every male person over the age of ten years had been slain. The women, ten or twelve; of the children, eight in num- ber, were spared, among these being the wife and child of Lieutenant Dickenson, the latter being known as the "babe of the Alamo." Among the other women and children were the widow of a Mexican soldier, Es- parza, and her 8-year-old son, Enrique. The latter, now a very old man, is living in San Antonio, and in all likelihood is the only survivor of the Alamo. Mrs. JAlsberry, who afterwards married Jose Penaloza, was another of the women saved and spared, and Madam Candalaria, claimed to have been in the Alamo Mission during its siege and fall. But all who defended it fell. There were no sur- vivors of this combat. It has been truly said: "Thermopalae had her messenger of defeat. The Alamo had none." Besides the Americans and other Texans there were eight or ten Mexican sympathizers who had joined and remained with them, fighting to the last, and died with them. THE HONOR ROLL. According to the roster, the following names of those who perished there, while defending the Alamo Mission were: -49 Commanders: Col. James Bowie, Kentucky; Lieut. Col. W. B. Travis, South Carolina. Aide de Camp: Charles Despalier. Lieutenant Adjutant: J. G. Baugh. Master of Ordnance: Robert Evans (Ireland). Lieutenant Quartermaster: Elias Melton. Assistant Quartermasters: Anderson and Burnell. Sergeant Major: Williamson. Surgeons : D. Michison, Amos Pollard, Thompson. Colonels: J. Washington, Tennessee; J. B. Bonham, South Carolina. Captains: Forsyth, New York; Harrison, Tennes- see; William Blazeley, Louisiana; W. C. M. Baker, Mississippi; S. B. Evans, W. R. Carey, S. C. Blair, Texas; Gilmore, Tennessee; Robert White. Lieutenants: Almaron Dickenson, John Jones, Lou- isiana (N. O. Greys) ; George C. Kimbell. Ensign: Green B. Jemison, South Carolina. Privates: David Crockett, Texas; E. Nelson, Nacog- doches; Nelson, Texas; W. H. Smith, Georgia; Lewis Johnson, Pennsylvania ; E. T. Mitchell, Georgia ; F. Desangue, Pennsylvania; Thruston (or Thurston), Kentucky; Moore, Christopher Parker, Mississippi; C. Huskell (or Haskell) Moses Rose, Texas; John Blair, Texas; Kiddison (or Kedeson), Wm. Wells, Tennessee; E. Cummings, Pennsylvania; Valentine (or Vuluntine) , Cockran, S. Hallaway, Isaac White, Day, Robert Muselman, New Orleans; Robert Grossman, New Orleans; I. G. Garrett, New Orleans; Robert B. Moore, New Orleans; Richard Starr, Eng- land; Richard Dimkin, England; W. Linn, Massachu- setts; Hutchinson, W. Johnson, Pennsylvania; E. Nelson, Geo. Tumlinson, William Deardoff, Daniel Bourne, England; Ingram, England; W. T. Lewis, Wales; Chas. Zanco, Denmark; Jas. L. Ewing, Robert Cunningham, S. Burns, Ireland ; George Neggin, South Carolina; Robinson, Scotland; Harris, Ken- tucky; John Flanders, Isaac Ryan, Opelousas; David Wilson, Texas; John M. Hayes, Tennessee; Stuart, 50 Navidad, Texas; W. K. Simpson, New Orleans; W. D. Southerland, Texas; D. W. Howell, New Orleans; Butler, Chas. B. Smith, McGregor, Scotland; Rusk, Hawkins, Ireland; Samuel Holloway, Brown, T. Jackson, Ireland, Johnson Linley, Mecahjah r Autrey, Lewis Duel. There was also the Gonzales contingent, who en- tered the Alamo on the eighth day of the seige, under command of Lieutenant Kimbell. These were James George, Dolphin Ward, Tom Jackson, G. W. Cottle, Andrew Kent, Thos. R. Miller, Isaac Baker, William King, Jesse McCoy, Claiborne Wright, William Fish- back, Isaac Millsapps, Galba Fuqua, John Davis, Al- bert Martin, William Fuhbach (or Fabaigh), John, B. A. M. Thomas, John G. King, Isaac Durst, M. L. Sewell, Robert White, A. Devault, John Harris, Da- vid Kent, and William E. Summers, who also perished. It is stated that an American, D. W. Cloud, perished there. Elijio Losoya, Jose M. Cabrera, the two Esparzas, father and son, Jose Maria Ximenes and a man named Jacinto, as well as several other Mexican men whose names do not appear on the list, who were either em- ployes of the garrison, or members of it, likewise died there during its siege and fall. BURNING OF BODIES OP DEFENDERS. It was a terrible slaughter and merciless savagery butchery done under the pretext of warfare. When it was done the disposition of the dead was almost as summary as their deaths had been accomplished. The corpses of the defenders were placed on two funeral pyres, each sixty feet long and ten feet high, located on what was then known as the Alameda, each on op- posite sides of it. One pyre was where the Ludlow house, and the building adjoining it on the East now stand. The other pyre occupied a portion of the site of the recently erected Halff building on East Com- merce street almost diagonally opposite. 51 Alternate layers of wood and corpses were placed and the whole saturated with grease, principally tal- low, after which the torch was applied to the two pyres. They burned for three days, during which time the bodies of the brave and immortal heroes were so completely incinerated that nothing of them was left but a few of the bones and parts of several skulls. The wind scattered the ashes to all points of the compass. Some of the bones were buried, but no one seems to know exactly where, although some ascribe the spot to the place where the remains of Gillespie and Walker, killed in Mexico in an expedition that oc- curred some time later. Others claim that they were placed in a single coffin and buried in San Fernando Cathedral, beneath the portion near the altar, but the records of this church do not disclose such informa- tion. Those bones, which were buried, in all likeli- hood, were interred very close to the pyres and at the spots indicated, such as were given burial being frag- mentary. While the slaughter of the Texans had been com- plete they did not die before dealing terribly with their executioners' forces. Santa Anna's force is said to have amounted to between six and seven thou- sand picked men and seasoned soldiers, of whom fully two thousand were killed outright or so badly wounded they died soon after, for the aim of the Texans was sure, and they wasted but little of their ammunition. After the battle Santa Anna was confronted not only with the problem of disposing of his dead oppon- ents which he did as described, summarily, but of get- ting rid of his own slain. At first attempts were made to bury them, but the task was so huge that most of the bodies of the Mexican troops were thrown into the San Antonio river, and for days choked its flow and lodged in its bends, causing a great stench that permeated the atmosphere for days and even weeks after the siege was over. 52 Santa Anna, in his official reports, endeavored to create the impression that his loss had been small and was greatly exceeded by that of his adversaries. He even went so far as to give the number of the Tex- ans slain as 600 when there were less than 200 of them in the town. He placed his own loss at less than a hundred, although the Alcalde Ruiz, who had charge of the disposition of the dead Mexicans, gave their number as exceeding 2000. MASSACRE OF FANINN'S FORCE. Santa Anna detached a portion of his force, which he placed under the command of Ugartachea and sent them almost immediately after the fall of the Alamo to Goliad to deal similarly with the force of Texans there under Captain J. W. Fannin. Under false pre- tenses Fannin's men were lured from their fortress and after being surrounded on the prairie surrender- ed, under assurance of Ugartachea of being treated as prisoners of war and allowed to return to their homes, but the next day after the surrender, all but a very small number, less than twenty, were taken out and massacred, having first been disarmed. SAN JACINTO AVENGED THE ALAMO. Santa Anna rested in San Antonio for a short time, during which he obtained reinforcements and was re- joined by Ugartachea. Then he marched with his combined columns in pursuit of the retreating Tex- ans commanded by Houston. Four days before the fall of the Alamo, the Con- vention held at the town of Washington had declared Texas a free and independent nation and Republic with Burnett as President and de Zavala as vice presi- dent. But soon after the holding of this convention the news of the disaster at San Antonio and Goliad was 53 received, and the seat of government removed from Washington to Harrisburg. Houston's army had reached the Brazos and crossed that stream, Santa 'Anna having gained on him. Santa Anna annihilated the small settlement of Anahuac and proceeding on so closely pressing Houstons army that it by forced marches with difficulty reached the bayou of San Ja~ cinto, beyond which Houston's troops which had be- come mutinous, refused to longer retreat. President Burnet had narrowly escaped capture in flight from Harrisburg in a small boat to Galveston. Fortunately Houston's quartermaster, Raquet, had captured from Santa Anna' train a considerable quan- tity of provisions and some beeves, this being the first food the Texans had eaten for two days during their retreat. Houston rode up and down their line, ha- ranguing them and promising them to give them all the fighting they wanted within a few hours. He began to make preparations for battle. Over-confi- dent, Santa Anna took his usual afternoon siesta, as did his staff and most of his soldiers. The others were busy with camp, culinary and other routine duties not of military character. They were very loosely guarding their camp. Sherman and Lamar, receiving Houston's permission, made a feint with cavalry to draw a charge from the enemy, who fell into the trap and charged close up to Houston's lines, when the Texans opened up on them with two pieces of artillery known as the "Twin Sisters," hurling the Mexicans back upon their own camp in confusion. The Texans followed them in close pursuit, shouting their battle-cry: "Remember the Alamo!" "Remem- ber Goliad!" The Mexicans were awakened from slumber, and most of them fled in confusion into the swamps and morasses. Many were killed and wound- ed and the balance taken prisoners, except a very small force which escaped and swiftly marched back to San Antonio. The victory of the Texans was com- plete. Three days later Santa Anna, disguised in a 54 dirty white suit and straw hat, was captured and brought in. Houston was being dressed when Santa Anna was brought before him. Santa Anna made a weak attempt to explain the butchery at the Alamo and the massacre at Goliad. Houston's staff and soldiers clamored for Santa Anna's execution, but Houston magnanimously spared Santa Anna's life, released him on his parole and permitted him to go, after Santa Anna had recognized the new Texas Repuolic. But Santa Anna, as his brother-in-law Cos had done be- fore, and was captured again at San Jacinto, broke his parole and agreement and did not remain idle long. He and the shattered remnants of his power- ful army of fully 4,000 men, which had been defeated by about 700 Texans, went back to Mexico, from whence Santa Anna sent his legions back again to San Antonio. INDLAN DEPRADATIONS. Meanwhile, the Indians had become very trouble- some. They had murdered many settlers, carried off their stock and some of their children, and were get- ting bolder all the time. They had violated three different promises to restore the captives after re- ceiving ransom money, ammunition and other gifts. On March 18, 1840, sixty-five Comanche Indians came into San Antonio, bringing with them three children captives, Mary Lockhart, a white boy named Webster, and a Mexican boy, and claimed the ransom that had been promised if they should return all of the captives they had taken. They were told they must bring in all of the captives, and that until they did so seven of their chiefs and warriors would be held as hostages. Immediately they set upon the whites and slew several before the latter realized the turn affairs had taken. The whites then began to shoot down the Indians, who were attempting to escape, and killed most of them, except some squaws and the hostages being -55 held, very few escaping. One squaw was sent back to notify the tribe of what had occurred and to tell its head to return the balance of the captives. When the squaw appeared and told the tidings, the Indians set upon all of the captives, but two, who had been adopted by childless chiefs, slew them and were so incensed against the Texans after that they never at- tempted to enter into any other treaty with them at San Antonio, and never came back except on forays. INVASION BY VASQUEZ. Defeat had rankled in the breasts of Santa Anna and his cohorts. They had been very bitter over the loss of territory and still claimed all Texas west of the Colorado River. In 1842 a force of 600 men, under Vasquez, was mustered by Santa Anna and sent back to San Antonio, with instructions to recapture this city. Vasquez and his troops arrived on March 5, 1842, and demanded of Colonel Jack Hays, in com- mand of the Texas garrison, the surrender of San Antonio. Hays' force was so much smaller than that of Vasquez it was deemed prudent for it to retire and permit Vasquez to take formal possession, which these Mexicans did. They did not molest the citizens or their property and only remained two days, or long enough to rest their force, when they retired and returned to Mexico, doubtless realizing it would not take long for the Texans to send a force sufficient to drive them out or capture the invaders. No more Mexican troops came back to San Antonio until September, 1842, when, on the 10th of that month the Mexican General Waul, or Woll, arrived with a force of 1,500. The day was foggy and the inhabitants did not realize the immense disparity in numbers between themselves and the enemy. The Texans fired on the Mexicans, killing twelve and wounding several, whereupon Waul promptly sent Colonel Carasco under a flag of truce to demand the immediate and unconditional surrender of the city. 56 Samuel A. Maverick, Sr., Jones and Van Ness were cent out to parley with Carasco and Waul, who would hear no explanation and held them prisoners. The ans were very indignant and, mustering as many men as they could, marched out and were attacked by the Mexicans. In the brief engagement that followed the Texans were enabled to escape without serious loss, after inflicting heavy loss on Waul's troops, who entered the city. The Texans camped in a ravine near the Salado and Waul sent out a large force next morning to at- tack and dislodge them. DAWSON MASSACRE. This force intercepted and attacked a force of thir- ty-three Texans under the command of Captain Daw- son on their way to join forces with Captain Caldwell. Dawson and most of his men were killed in the fight that then occurred, only two of Dawson's men escap- ing, but they killed many of the Mexicans. Dawson, who had fought at San Jacinto, raised a flag of truce to make terms of surrender, but the Mexicans would not recognize the flag and slew those bearing it and all others they encountered. PEROTE AND MIER PRISONERS. Maverick, Jones, Twohig, Trueheart, Van Ness and some sixty other well-known citizens and officials of San Antonio were arrested, marched off on foot next day by Waul and his troops to Mexico. They were placed in Perote Prison, where they were held for more than two years and until their release was finally secured through the instrumentality of the American Ambassador, General Waddy Thompson, Twohig, one of them, having cleverly made his escape with several others by tunneling through the stone 57 wall, swimming the moat and taking a carriage to Vera Cruz, from whence he took passage on a vessel and got away. Meanwhile, "Big Foot" Wallace and several San Antonians, who had joined what was known as "the Mier expedition/* had been captured by the Mexicans and carried to the prison at Mier, where a lottery of life and death was held. For every ten white beans placed in a small sack a black bean was placed, the total number of beans placed in the sack equaling the total number of the prisoners. Those who drew the white beans were given their lives, but the ones who drew the black ones suffered death. Wallace drew a white bean, but magnanimously gave it to a boy pris- oner, who had drawn a black one. His act of chiv- alry won such admiration that Wallace, too, was given his life. A monument erected at La Grange, from which place several members of the Mier expe- dition went to death, honors the memory and contains the names of all of those who perished in this terrible tragedy. TEXAS CHANGES FROM NATION TO STATE. Texas remained a nation nine years and in 1845 was annexed by consent of her people to the United States as one of her states. Out of this annexation and resent- ment of it by Mexico and frequent depredations by Mexico upon the people and property of this state the United States reluctantly w as embroiled and precipi- tated the Mexican war, which lasted for nearly three years. During this war but two of the prominent en- gagements were fought on Texas soil. These were the battles of Palo Alto, or "Tall Tree," and Resaca de la Palma, or the "Palm Tree Bayou," both between Point Ysabel and Brownsville, on the Mexican border, and in both of which the United States was victorious, as in all other prominent battles of that war on Mexican soil. Mexico was compelled to cede to the United States 58 not only all of the territory previously wrested from her by the Texans, but upper California, Arizona and New Mexico. Up to this time San Antonio had been under the Spanish, French, the Constitutionalist, the Mexican and the Texas Republic flags and then came under the United States "Star Spangled Banner." TEXAS SECEDES FROM THE UNION. Among the states to early secede from the American Federation was the Lone Star State, and San Antonio went then under the star and bar flag of the Southern Confederacy. The Federal commander, General Twiggs, surrendered the city to the Confederate Commissioners, Maverick, Devine and Luckett, being permitted to march his force out with their arms. Many of the United States army officers stationed in Texas had pre- viously resigned their commands and joined those of the Confederacy, most prominent among these being Robert E. Lee, Albert Sidney Johnston, Hood and Van Dorn, who became general officers and conspicuous figures in history. Lee and Johnston had been sta- tioned in San Antonio and left here to join the forces of the Confederacy. By a singular coincidence the last battle of the Civil War, as the first one in the Mexican War had been, was fought on Texas soil and the two battlefields were but very few miles apart, both near Point Ysabel. The last battle, which resulted in success for the Confed- erates, took place nearly three weeks after Lee had surrendered to Grant at Appomatox, of which fact the Confederate forces were ignorant and probably the Federals as well, the successful Confederate command- er, Colonel "Rip" Ford, receiving the tidings of the downfall of the Confederacy by courier several days after his victory, the news coming by courier, there then being no telegraphic communication in that re- gion. 59 SPANISH-AMERICAN WAR. While there was no fighting in San Antonio during it, she contributed very prominent contingents to the Spanish-American War. It was here that the Rough Riders, Colonel Roosevelt's command, was organized, as were the First Texas United States Volunteer Cav- alry and the Thirty-third U. S. Volunteer Infantry, both commanded by Colonel Luther R. Hare and the latter figuring prominently in the Philippine campaign. The Belknap Rifles and San Antonio Zouaves formed two very conspicuous and active companies in the First Texas U. S. Volunteer Infantry in Cuba and several of the regiments of regulars were recruited to full strength here before going to the field during that brief but de- cisive campaign. Garesche Ord, the brave young offi- cer who was treacherously stabbed by a Spaniard while giving him a drink from Ord's canteen, as the latter bent over the Spaniard, was a San Antonian. The first troops to fight in the Philippines were soldiers sent from San Antonio. In proportion to her population she contributed more troops to this war than did any other city of the Union, just as she had during the Civil War. 60 The Famous Missions t The Alamo Mission Concepcion Mission 5an Jose Mission 5an Juan Mission De La Lspada 5an Fernando Cathedral t ORIGIN AND OBJECT THE FAMOU5 MISSIONS All of the old missions located in this vicinity were established by the Franciscan Friars, monks of the Catholic faith, who came to this vicinity first about 1690 or 1691. The Alamo, or Mission of San Antonio de Valero, being the first one founded. Its history has been previously given in this Guide. There is a chain of these old Missions along the San Antonio river extending all the way from San Antonio as far as Kef ugio, the Mission of La Bahia, at Goliad, being the most historic after the Alamo, on account of being the place where Fannin's force was located and from whence its members were marched out to be mas- sacred shortly after the garrison of the Alamo had been butchered. CONCEPCION MISSION. The title of this mission is El Mission de la Nuestra Senora de la Concepcion Purissima de Acuna, having been named after the Virgin Mary and the Spanish Viceroy, Don Juan de Acuna. It is generally alluded to as the Second Mission, the Alamo being the first. It was built in 1731, the style of architecture in it, as in all others, having originally been Moresque. It faces the west and has twin towers, each with belfries. Above the main portal the coat of arms is contained in a tri- angle. The stone work is covered with cement. The altar is of stone and there is a large baptismal fount in the south room near the main entrance. This building, as has been the case with all^of its companions, the other missions groups, has been denuded of most of its orna- mental features by the impious hands of vandals who have carried away many of the characteristic objects. 63 The church of this mission is joined by a pile of other buildings in which the monks and their protoges lodged and worked. A large irrigation ditch ran through the grounds and watered the soil which was tilled by them* The entire establishment was originally surrounded by a high stone wall, which was a protection against hos- tile Indians, as well as a means of holding the live stock and separating them from the gardens and crops. Ir- rigation was extensively practiced in those days. The monks raised all of their own vegetables and also mar- keted the surplus in the settlements about them. Numerous engagements occurred in and around this and the other missions in this vicinity, most of them having been encounters with hostile Indians. Some of them were conflicts between the Spaniards and French, and others occurred during the war between the Texans and Mexicans, the most memorable of the latter having been the battle described in a previous chapter. The force of Ugartachea, one of Santa Anna's generals, camped there on the way to San Antonio and when it came to Goliad. The Texans camped there during several periods of their revolution. It is two and a half miles below the city and east of the San Antonio River. SAN JOSE MISSION. or the third mission, whose proper title is "El Mission de San Jose de Aguayo," is named for St. Joseph and the Spanish governor, the Marquis de Aguayo. It was originally the most beautiful of all of these mis- sions. It was designed by the famous Spanish archi- tect and sculptor, Huisar. There was a profusion of statuary representing the Holy Family in niches on the front, as well as in the interior of the church, but vandals either destroyed or carried away all of them and almost everything else they could take away. This mission was founded in 1720, but was not com- I l\ < u u 5 8? pleted until 1728. It is situated on the west side of and about half a mile from the San Antonio River. It is about six miles south of San Antonio. A window in the the south wall is considered the most beautiful specimen of architecture in the United States and has been copied in many modern structures. Most of the buildings forming the group comprising this mission are of stone and concrete, but a portion of it, consist- ing of a series of numerous arches, is made of red brick, probably the first kiln-baked brick ever manu- factured hereabouts. The clay from which they were made came undoubtedly from the vicinity of the Me- dina River, about seven miles distant. This mission has a single tower, which was origi- nally reached by a massive oak spiral stairway, which has disappeared (and is said to have been stolen and sold to someone in New York for $1,000). There was also a cedar ladder, which likewise has been stolen and has gone, no one knows where. This tower was used as a lookout to avoid surprises by Indians. It was used for this purpose as late as 1878 of the last century. From it an excellent view of San Antonio and the surrounding country can be obtained, but it is difficult now to reach the tower. This mission had the largest church of any except the chapel of the Alamo had, but the church is now in ruins and the mass is celebrated in one of the smaller rooms. There is a settlement of about 200 inhabitants around it, nearly all of them Mexicans, who labor in the fields or are teamsters in the vicinity. MISSION OF SAN JUAN. The next, or fourth, mission is that whose title is "El Mission de San Juan de Capistrano," named for St. John and founded in 1716. It is in a ruinous state, but enough of the group, and especially the chapel, is left to show its original contour. It is in the river valley and almost on the edge of the San Antonio 65 River's west bank, near what was formerly Berg's Mill, about nine miles south of San Antonio. ESPADA MISSION. The fifth, or last, of the old Franciscan missions, in the immediate vicinity of San Antonio, is the one about eleven miles south of the city and also on the west side of the river, and known as the Espada Mis- sion. Its proper title is the Mission of St. Francis of the Sword ("San Francisca de Espada"). It is said originally to have been located on the Medina River, about three miles west of its present location, and to have been built there in 1698, but this is not authenti- cated by the records of the Catholic Church. It was built on its present site in 1716, destroyed by the In- dians, and rebuilt in 1730. It is in a very dilapidated state, and Bishop Shaw, the Catholic bishop of the San Antonio diocese, is making efforts to secure the restoration and preservation of this and all of the other missions named which belong to the church. If this can be done, a grand work will have been accom- plished. These missions should be zealously guarded against the hands of relic-hunters and other vandals. The four missions below the city can be reached either by hacks or autos. Large tourist cars make regular trips to them daily, twice a day, and the mis- sions are open to the public. Accompanying these tourist automobiles are persons who attempt to give the histories of the missions, but what they do not know about San Antonio and her missions and their history is amazing. One of the glaring misstatements is that these missions are connected by underground tunnels. All of the missions have cellars, or under- ground chambers, but none of them are connected by subterranean chambers or passages. Occasionally, when excavations are made in and around the city, conduits are found, 'which were originally the ditches (or acequias) used for irrigation purposes in the city 66 and at and around the missions. These ditches were all walled and the bottoms lined with stone to keep them from eroding. These ditches have been mis- taken for underground passages, about which numer- ous grewsome and purely imaginary stories have been told. A Catholic church, which has been confounded with the missions, is the old San Fernando Church, now the Catholic Cathedral. Originally it was all of Mo- resque architecture, but the front portion was de- stroyed by fire. When that portion was rebuilt, mod- ern and composite architecture was substituted. The church presents the novel spectacle of the blending of the two styles. One portion of the edifice dates back to the year 1732, while the other is a little over half a century old; and part of it, one of the towers, has not been built more than a double decade. It is the geographical center of the city of San An- tonio, and from its original single tower the flags of Spain, France, Mexico, and first the red and then the black flag of Santa Anna floated. Beneath its altar some of the church dignitaries and Spanish officials were buried many years ago. The remains of some of these still repose there. The interior of this church is handsome. It has several specimens of sculpture and many paintings of sacred subjects, and the main altar is an artistic piece of workmanship. The other subsidiary altars are also ornamented elaborately, and this is the largest and handsomest of all of the many Catholic churches in San Antonio. In it are kept the Catholic baptismal and funeral records of the city parishioners of this church for the past century and three-quarters. For many years the priests and the bishops lived in rooms above the rear portion of the church, but when Bishop J. C. Neraz succeeded Bishop Pellicer the residence of the priests was removed to where St. Theresa's School on Dwyer Avenue now is. Bishop Shaw has his residence at Santa Rosa In- firmary. 67 THE CHAPEL OF MIRACLES. What is known as "El Capilla de las Miragolas" or "Chapel of Miracles" is another quite interesting place for visitors to inspect. It is located on Ruiz Street not far from San Pedro Creek and North Laredo Street. It can be reached by the West End car line, leaving the car as it turns into Ruiz Street. Many miracles are ascribed to this old Chapel. Formerly it was located on Dolorosa Street near Main Plaza, but the property on which it was originally situated was sold in the sixty's of the last century. Soon after- wards it was removed to its present location. There at all times devotees may be seen in attitudes of prayer supplicating for some Devine gift for them- selves or others. Many valuable votive offerings have been made to this Chapel by persons whose pray- ers have been said to have been answered or should have been desirous of having them granted. The structure is small, not more than thirty feet in breadth and forty feet in length. Its altar ornaments are handsome. Candles constantly burn on the altars, these candles being votive offerings of the pious flock in attendance. OLD AQUEDUCT. One of the very interesting objects to be seen in the vicinity of San Antonio is the old aqueduct built by the Spanish monks to carry water from one of the irrigation ditches across and above the San Antonio River. This aqueduct, or flume, is located about ten miles below the city and a short distance this side of the Espada Mission. It is between that mission and the San Juan Mission, and is in a good state of repair. In the days when the missions were founded, and for many years thereafter, water was much more valu- able about here than land. The land then only became valuable by reason of the service performed by the -68 system of acequias, or irrigation ditches, in furnishing water for use in connection with the cultivation of the land. The irrigation ditches took water from the San Antonio River and the San Pedro, both of which were then great, bold streams, furnishing many millions of gallons of water per day to these acequias, besides the immense flow that formed their main volume. The system of ditches was elaborate and efficient, furnishing not only aqueduct and ditch an abundance of water for the communities in the missions proper, but for the settlements around them and about the city. Cultivation by means of this irrigation was car- ried on extensively and many vegetable products were profitably grown. Each tract of land along the ditches had water rights, entitling the owner to so many hours of water service during the month ; and these water rights were very valuable. The tolls for the water service were collected by the Spanish Government, later by the Mexican and finally by the Texas and local officials. The cultivation of various substances by artificial means was practiced in San Antonio until the water supply was sapped so that the river and ditches al- most ceased to flow and the volume of the flow shrunk to insignificance. The ditches were then pronounced a menace to public health. Most of them were aban- doned and filled up. Much of the land that was culti- vated by means of irrigation in San Antonio was con- verted into city lots and dwellings and other buildings erected on them. Wherever irrigation is now con- ducted in and around the city, it is done by means of artesian wells. The artesian wells have entirely sup- planted the irrigation ditches. The artesian wells furnish water for all purposes, household as well as cultivation, and the old irrigation ditches have become but a memory. The ditches were in use before San Antonio had any other waterworks system. The water then was pure and undefiled. It was as clear and sparkling as crystal. 69 People drank it and used it in connection with culi- nary purposes. It was a very serious offense to cast any object into the river, the creek or any of the ditches, and such offense was always punished by heavy fine and frequently by imprisonment. The volume of all the streams was so large, and the flow so bold, that they purified themselves and kept sweet and healthful. A profusion of fruits and an abundance of vege- tables grew wherever irrigation was practiced, and those who cultivated them made excellent profits. For- merly San Antonio raised all of the vegetables and fruits sold in her markets. Many beautiful flowers grew along the banks of the streams and irrigation ditches. They were fragrant and delighted the people on whose premises they grew, as well as the passerby. The principal ditches were the Madre (or Mother ditch) , the Upper and Lower Labor ditches, the Apa- latchie, the Alazan, the Flores Street, the Alamo, the San Pedro and others, which, together with their lat- erals or branches, formed a system aggregating sev- eral hundred miles in length. It seems a great pity that such a mammoth and magnificent system has been almost entirely obliter- ated. These ditches added considerably to the reve- nue of the city, as well as to the profit of those own- ing property contiguous to them. But they are gone irretrievably. Only the ruins of them are to be seen occasionally. Formerly they defined boundary lines, which are apt to become confused since these ditches have been filled and their sources effaced. There was a charm about them that can not be re- placed, even by the artesian waterflow. The older in- habitants associate them with recollections of pros- perity that prevailed during the time when the ditches and purses of the populace both were full. -70 HISTORIC HOUSES. The families of the settlers from the Canary Islands were allotted grants for residences around the three sides of the Main Plaza and the east and south sides of the Military Plaza. The north side of the Main, as well as the north and west sides of the Military Plazas, having originally been reserved for the residences and establishments of the military forces and the civil and military officials of the city during the Spanish and Mexican dominations. The original name given the Main Plaza was that of "El Plaza de las Islas," or the Plaza of the Islands, in honor of those who came from the Canaries. Among the old Spanish families who lived about the Military Plaza, or "Plaza de las Armas," were the Flores, Del- gados, Perez, Rodriguez, Urrutia and Bargas; while about the Main Plaza lived the descendants of the Bethancpurts, Arochas, Cubelos, Leals, Guardos, An- ieze, Alina, D'Armas, Montez de Ocha, Rosas, Mar- tinez, Bustillos, De Sotos, Yturri, Granados and Bar- rera, and others. Most of their houses have disap- peared and given place to modern structures, but there are still a very few of the original and ancient adobe structures of the Spaniards, but they are doomed to soon disappear. None of the original Spanish structures are left on Alamo Plaza except the portions of the Alamo Mis- sion still standing, on the east side and at the north- east corner, all others having given way to the modern edifices filling that ancient plaza. Fragments of the early homes of the American residents remain in some quarters of the city. Among these is what is left of the old Jaques residence, at the corner of Soledad and Travis Streets, which was also the home of the Cupples family. The old house formerly owned by Don Antonio Chavez, bearing the shot and bullet marks of the combat between Milam's and Cos* forces, is still stand- 11 ing at Obraje and North Flores Streets, and some few other old residences yet remain as they originally were built. But most of them have vanished like the Vera- medi Palace, the home of the Garzas, and the dwellings of other old-time residents. CATHOLIC CEMETERIES. Originally the city cemetery of San Antonio was located where Milam Square now is. At first it was devoted exclusively to burial of Catholics, who com- prised then almost the entire population, but later the remains of Ben R. Milam and others of different re- ligious faiths were placed there. For a long time this was considered so far out of town as to render it unsafe for a small number of persons to go there, on account of the pernicious activity of Indians. But later, as the city grew, the Catholics removed many of their dead from this locality to the San Fernando Cemetery, west of the Alazan Creek and about a mile and a quarter southwest of San Fernando Cathedral. Later on the Catholics established another cemetery in the eastern portion of the city and called it St. Mary's Cemetery, it having been established by the members of the congregation of St. Mary's Church, although the dead of St. Joseph's and other Catholic churches are buried there. 72 GOVERNMENT TOWER AT FORT SAM HOUSTON THE BRIGADE PO5T Historical sketch of Military Headquarters of Department of Texas, varied sec- tions, Hospital, Chapel donated by citizens, Arsenal, Ltc. FORT 5AM HOUSTON MILITARY MATTERS SAN ANTONIO AN ARMY CENTER. Military matters have always figured prominently at San Antonio, ever since the coming of the Spaniards, who were the first to recognize it as a strategic point. Its importance in this regard has been appreciated by the United States Government ever since the Mexican War. Troops have been mustered and maintained and often mobilized here for emergencies. For some years the Government, from 1849 to 1878, leased from the Catholic Church the old Alamo Mission as a depot for military supplies. The old Vance property, where the Gunter Hotel now is, was where the barracks were until the United States made its first purchase of property on what is known as Government Hill. The first barracks built by the Government were of lum- ber and erected in the rear of the quarters of the Department Commander, back from Grayson Street, while the Quartermaster's quadrangle was the first depot for supplies constructed. Originally, the Gov- ernment invested about $100,000 in the barracks and depot. Later it acquired what is termed "the Upper Post." Then the name, Fort Sam Houston, was given the army post here, and by this title it has been known ever since. Later it acquired a large tract of land directly north of the Department officers' quar- ters and the Quartermaster's quadrangle, and still later the large tract directly east of the Cavalry and Artillery barracks, and has converted the latter into an immense maneuver ground and camp site for the troops in cases of emergency. It also purchased in the vicinity of Leon Springs a large tract of land for military maneuvers and target practice. The Govern- 75 ment has something like $10,000,000 invested in land and buildings in and about San Antonio. The first military structure built here by the United States Gov- ernment was the Arsenal on South Flores Street, erected shortly after the close of the Civil War. Prior to that time the arsenal had been located near the river south of Houston Street, back of where the Book Building now stands. The military headquarters had been in the Veramendi Palace. Later it was in the French Building at Dolorosa Street and Dwyer Ave- nue, and finally in the Maverick Hotel, from whence it was removed to the present location when the quad- rangle was built. Until the advent of railroads, many military posts on the frontier were garrisoned, this being necessary on account of incursions by predatory savages and desperadoes infesting that region. The railways was the great civilizers that drove away the red man and the bad man. Then it became the policy of Uncle Sam to concentrate troops here for use when needed at other points to which they can be dis- patched by rail. During the Spanish-American War, San Antonio was a very important recruiting station. Just before that period the military department of Texas had been abolished and the department headquarters removed to Atlanta. Soon after the Spanish-American cam- paign the department was restored. Recently, San Antonio has become the headquarters of a military division instead of a brigade headquarters. The United States Government expends a great deal of money here for provisions and other supplies of various kinds for its troops and animals. It also pays out several millions yearly to the troops and civilian employes on duty in connection with the military serv- ice here, most of this money being spent in the city of San Antonio. MILITARY PARADES. Among the most interesting spectacles to be seen 76 here are the parades, guard mounts and other mili- tary functions held at Fort Sam Houston, which are greatly enjoyed by the thousands of spectators who witness them. Most of them can be seen without hav- ing to walk very far from the street cars, but when they are held on the grand parade grounds, autos and other vehicles carry the visitors to the vicinity where they occur. Usually, there is a general muster and grand review at the end of each month, given on the maneuver grounds, when all of the troops on duty, several thou- sand in number and of all arms of the service, are paraded and march in review before the division com- mander. Many military chieftains who have acquired world- wide fame have served in San Antonio and at the frontier posts west and south of here. Among them have been Generals Zachariah Taylor, Harney, U. S. Grant, Fred D. Grant, David Twiggs, Robert E. Lee, Kirby Smith, Hood, Albert Sydney Johnston, Merritt, Worth, Reynolds, E. O. C. Ord, Shafter, Mackenzie, Stanley, Phil Sheridan, W. T. Sherman, Lawton, Wheaton, MacArthur, Zenas, Bliss, McKibbin, Gra- ham, Whitesidese, Hare, J. G. C. Lee and others. Prior to and during the Madero Mexican revolution 10,000 troops of various arms of the service were quartered here and remained for several months. They maneuvered extensively and were equipped with sup- plies necessay for actual warfare. Among the most interesting features of the maneuvers were the avia- tion scouts of the Signal Corps branch of the service. The first dispatches to be carried in regular military service by aeroplane were those taken between San Antonio and Leon Springs. Signaling from aeroplanes was also done satisfactorily, and also photographing from them at high altitudes. Always the military in San Antonio figures in her pageantry, giving color and brilliance to it and add- 77 ing to its spectacular effects. One of the very impor- tant elements in the city's existence is the military feature. San Antonio is soon to become the largest military post in the Union. Even now she is only second in size to the largest. When an additional purchase of property, soon to be made, has been accomplished, her military area will be greater than any other. 78 BRACKENRIDGE PARK PLEASANT DRIVES To Laurel Heights, Head of the River, Government Hill, the Hot Wells and other suburban resorts DELIGHTFUL VIEWS INTERESTING DRIVES SPLENDID SUBURBAN DRIVES. San Antonio has very many beautiful suburbs. Most of them are accessible by street car. All of them are accessible by auto, and all are interesting. Many of them are very beautiful and well worthy of visiting. Probably the most beautiful of all of the suburban additions to San Antonio is Alamo Heights. It is northeast of the city and just above the head of the San Antonio River. It is traversed by the Alamo Heights- West End car line and is reached by way of River Avenue and by passing Brackenridge Park. There are several fine driveways to and through it. Among these is the fine roadway through Bracken- ridge Park and over the Heights to the Olmos. These driveways are shaded by the forest oaks and other trees that grow in the park and on the Heights. One of the drives leads to the Country Club and its golf grounds. Another fine driveway reaching Alamo Heights by the Country Club is one going out over New Braunfels Avenue. There are many handsome residences in this suburb. From it a splendid view of San Antonio can be obtained and also an excellent one of the military posts and parade grounds. LAUREL HEIGHTS. Another very handsome subdivision is Laurel Heights. It is at a considerable elevation above the city and affords an excellent view of the city and valley below. In it are very many handsome resi- dences of wealthy persons, and it is traversed by 81 many fine drives and roadways. It is reached by the San Pedro Street car line. There is also an extension car line to "Summit" addition, where the Catholic Ecclesiastical Educational Institute is located. On the way to Laurel Heights, Tobin Hill is reached either by the San Pedro or the Tobin Hill lines, and is another interesting suburb, containing many hand- some residences and traversed by many good streets and driveways. Camden Square, a very handsome twin park, is along the line of the latter car system and is one of the beauty spots of that portion of the city proper. All of Tobin Hill lies within the city limits, but much of Laurel Heights is beyond it. Beacon Hill is another of the suburbs in the north- ern portion of the city, which is a beautiful and in- teresting one. It is northwest of San Antonio, and most of it lies beyond the city limits. It is reached by the Beacon Hill-Nolan Street line, and contains many handsome modern residences. There are several fine driveways through it, among these being the Fred- ericksburg Road. The city has built some fine streets in the lower portion of Beacon Hill, and the residents of that suburb have constructed some on their own account. The Blanco City Road passes through the extreme eastern portion of this suburb and west of Alamo Heights and Laurel Heights, there being a fine loop driveway, enabling anyone in an automobile to visit all three of these suburbs. One of the very interesting suburbs is West End, on the West End-Alamo Heights line. In this addi- tion the large and placid lake, that is filled with many specimens of waterfowl, is situated. In this suburb there are several educational institutions and some handsome dwellings. It is also reached by a drive- way that passes through the southern portion of it. West of the city and south of West End is the Lake- view Addition, which also contains a small lake and some handsome residences. It is reached by auto, and from it an excellent view of the city is obtained. From 82 there Prospect Hill can be reached by the Lakeview car line extention. It is south of Lakeview and is also on the Southern Pacific, M., K. & T. and I. & G. N. railway lines ; has some handsome residences, presents a fine view of the city below and is an interesting place to ride through. South of the city and west of the San Pedro is another interesting suburb. It is known as Collins Gardens, where irrigation by means of artesian wells has been practiced for several years with considerable success, but the gardens are being converted into lots and residences are being built on them. It is reached by the Collins Gardens-Highland Park car line. West of the San Antonio River, and south of San Antonio, are two interesting suburbs. One of these is known as Harlandale and the other as Terrell's Wells, or San Jose Addition, which are reached by the South Heights and Harlandale lines and the latter by an extension to Terrell's Wells. Terrell's Wells and Har- landale furnish splendid thermal and medicinal water, and this spot is very popular with invalids afflicted with muscular and cutaneous diseases. The Pleasan- ton and Sommerset Roads, both good country roads, pass close to these wells, and the Corpus Christi Road passes through Harlandale. Palm Heights is another new suburb in the same vicinity and reached by the Collins Gardens-Highland Park car line and the Sommerset Road. Below Harlandale is the San Jose Mission, which is on what is called the Southern Loop. This loop is a very popular drive for tourists in autos. It connects with the Roosevelt Avenue, the Presa Street and the San Juan-San Jose county roads and the Corpus Christi, Pleasanton and Sommerset Roads. Both the San Jose and San Juan Missions are erached over it, and the Conception Mission can also be reached either going or returning over this loop. By going out South Presa Street, the Hot Wells, Scheuermeyer's or Exposition Park, the Southwestern Insane Asylum and the Missions San Juan and Es- pada can be reached, there being a fine driveway for autos over this road, which is known as the San Juan Road. The Exposition Park, Hot Wells and the Asy- lum can be reached by the Hot Wells street car line, which also passes the International Fair Grounds, ad- joining Riverside Park. Riverside Park has been cut up into residence properties, but the International Fair Grounds are still kept open to the public and con- tain a splendid double race track, where auto speeding is permitted. East of the Fair Grounds is the Highland Park sub- division, reached by the Highland Park-Collins Gar- dens line. It has some handsome residences in it and is an interesting portion of the city. South Heights, just north of Highland Park, and on the South Heights and South Flores Street car line, is a very handsome suburb and considered one of the healthiest in the city, as the air reaches it during the prevailing southeast breezes from the Gulf before passing over any of the balance of the city. In it are some pretty parks and handsome dwellings. East End is another interesting suburb. There is a branch line connecting it with South Heights, and there is connection between this suburb and the city via the Southern Pacific, M., K. & T. and I. & G. N. railway car lines. It is beyond the beautiful ceme- teries in the eastern portion of the city and is not very far from the Salado Creek. Numerous driveways tra- verse Highland Park, South Heights and East End. There are also numerous county roads which con- nect with city streets and which afford fine driveways, reaching Mitchell's Lake, St. Hedwig, Elmendorf, Southton, Helotes, Selma, Castroville, the Medina dam (the latter a colossal storage tank impounding the Medina River), Pleasanton, La Coste, Van Ormy and other nearby places which tourists may desire to visit in autos. There are over 4,000 public and private automobiles in San Antonio, and riding in these cars is a very popular method of transportation here. Autos can be hired at various stands on the plazas and streets and at various garages, the prices being proportionate to the distances to be traveled and the means of the passengers to pay. During portions of the year the Traction Company puts on sightseeing cars, which traverse the principal suburbs and points of interest in the city. These cars usually make two trips a day, and the charge is fifty cents for the trip of about twenty-five miles. Sight- seeing autos also run regularly to some of the inter- esting portions of the city, charging fifty cents, sev- enty-five cents and a dollar, according to the distance traveled and time spent in the journey. Hacks and carriages can be hired by tourists, and all points visited. The hacks cost a dollar and a half per hour for each passenger carried where. hacks are hired by the hour. POINTS OF INTEREST, AND How REACHED. Alamo Mission Group On Alamo Plaza; reached by all street cars except West End, River Avenue, Hot Wells and San Fernando and suburban lines. All cars except suburban give transfers to Alamo Plaza. Alamo Heights Northeastern part of city; Alamo Heights- West End car line. Army Post (Fort Sam Houston) On Government Hill; Army Post-San Pedro line. Brackenridge Park On River Avenue; West End- Alamo Heights car line. Country Club On edge of Alamo Heights and the army maneuver grounds; on Cow Street; reached by Alamo Heights- West End car line. City Hall On Military Plaza ; reached by the South Heights-Harlandale, South Flores-South Heights, Col- lins Gardens-Highland Park, and S. P., M., K. & T. and I. & G. N. Railway car lines. 85 Cordero Palace, where coats-of-arms of Spain and Austria are blended on flat arch of portal on west side of Military Plaza; reached by same car lines as traverse Military Plaza, above mentioned. County Court House, built of red sandstone On south side of Main Plaza; reached by S. P., M., K. & T. and I. & G. N. Railway, Hot Wells, South Heights- South Flores and Harlandale, Collins Garden and Highland Park car lines. Old County Court House On Soledad Street, be- tween Commerce and Veramendi Streets; reached by same cars as new Court House; is near where Vera- mendi Palace formerly stood and also close to old Garza house, recently demolished to give way to the Rand Building. Old Cupples Home Corner of Travis and Soledad Streets; one block north of all car lines and directly on Tobm-Hill and San Pedro lines. Old Chavez House Corner of Obraje and North Flores Streets ; on Beacon Hill line. Concepcion Mission On Roosevelt Avenue, one-half mile west of Hot Wells car line; reached by auto or hack and sightseeing autos. Bedell Building On Avenue C near Houston Street, half a block from all car lines on Houston Street and directly on Army Post-San Pedro and Alamo Heights- West End car lines; adjoins Moore Building, and is its twin. Electric Park Adjoins San Pedro Park; reached by San Pedro and Beacon Hill car lines. Exposition Park (formerly Scheuermeyer's Park) On South Presa Street and South Loop; reached by Hot Wells lines. Fair Grounds, adjoining former Riverside Park, one-half mile below Second or Concepcion Mission; reached by Hot Wells car line. Federal Building and Postoffice on Alamo Plaza, Avenues D and E Reached by Nolan Street-Beacon Hill, Tobin Hill, Aransas Pass, S. P., M., K. & T.- 86 I. & G. N. Railway, South Heights, South Flores and Harlandale, Collins Gardens-Highland Park street car lines. Frost Building At Southwest corner of Houston Street and Main Avenue; reached by all cars on Houston Street except Hot Wells, Tobin Hill and San Pedro lines. Gibbs Building Corner Houston Street, Avenue D and Alamo Plaza; reached by same cars as the Fed- eral Building. Hicks Building Reached by all cars on Houston Street except San Fernando and Hot Wells lines. Espada Mission On South Loop, eleven miles be- low city ; reached by auto or carriage. ArsenalOn South Flores Street; reached by the South Flores-South Heights, Harlandale, Collins Gar- dens-Highland Park car lines. Gunter Hotel and Gunter Office Building Houston and St. Mary's Streets; all Houston Street car lines except San Fernando. Bexar Hotel Houston and Jefferson Streets; all Houston Street car lines except San Fernando and Hot Wells car lines. Alamo Hotel On Alamo Plaza; reached by all car lines traversing Alamo Plaza. Beethoven Hall On South Alamo near East Nueva Street; Tobin Hill, S. A. & A. P., and Collins Gardens- Highland Park car lines. Grand Opera House On Alamo Plaza and Crockett Street ; reached by all cars traversing Alamo Plaza. Light (newspaper) Crockett Street, opposite the Opera House. Masonic Temple Comer Crockett and Losoya; half a block from all Alamo Plaza street cars. Losoya Hotel Losoya Street, between Crockett and Commerce; one block from all Alamo Plaza street car lines. 87 Daily Express Building (newspaper) Corner of Crockett and Navarro Streets; on Hot Wells street car line. Dullnig's Hot Wells On Goliad Road, eight miles southeast of city; fine thermal and mineral waters, petroleum and natural gas wells; reached by auto or carriage ; is two miles east of end of Hot Wells street car line. Harlandale On Corpus Christi Road, outside of the city limits; on South Flores-Harlandale street car line. Palm Heights Near Collins Gardens; reached by Collins Gardens-Highland Park car line; outside of the city limits. I. & G. N. Railway Depot On Houston and Medina Streets; on West End- Alamo Heights and the g. P., M., K. & T.-I. & G. N. Railway lines; one mile west of Main Plaza. Stowers and Glower Twin Buildings Corner Hous- ton Street and Main Avenue; tallest buildings in the city; reached by all car lines except Hot Wells line. Rand Building Occupies square bounded by Hous- ton, Soledad, Veramendi Street and Main Avenue; largest building in city; reached by every car line in the city. Book Building On Houston Street and the San Antonio River ; reached by all Houston Street car lines except San Fernando line. Menger Hotel On Alamo Plaza; reached by all the street cars traversing Alamo Plaza. Plaza Theater On Alamo Plaza, in Conroy Build- ings; reached by all Alamo Plaza car lines. Joske Bros. Building At the corner of South Alamo and Commerce Streets; reached by all car lines tra- versing Alamo Plaza except Nolan Street and Beacon Hill lines. Wolff & Marx Store Soon to be removed to Rand Building; at present on South Alamo Street near 88 Alamo Plaza and Commerce Street; reached by all the Alamo Plaza cars except Nolan Street-Beacon Hiil line. S. Wolfson's and Washer Bros. Stores At the cor- ner of Commerce and South Alamo Streets; reached by all cars traversing East Commerce and South Alamo Streets. Nic Tengg's Book Store West Commerce Street, between Navarro and Corcoran Streets ; one-half block from Hot Wells line. San Antonio National Bank, Alamo National Bank, Groos National Bank and City National Bank All on West Commerce Street, and all on or near Hot Wells car line. Commercial National Bank Corner of Soledad and Commerce Streets; reached by all cars traversing the east side of Main Plaza. Frost National Bank Corner of Main Plaza and Trevino Street ; reached by all car lines traversing the west side of Main Plaza. Citizens' Bank and Trust Company In Gunter Ho- tel Building on Houston Street; reached by all Hous- ton Street car lines except San Fernando line. State Bank and Trust Company Hicks Building on Houston Street; reached by all Houston Street cars except Hot Wells and San Fernando lines. West Texas Bank and Trust Company In Moore Building on Houston Street; reached by all Houston Street car lines except San Fernando and Hot Wells. American Bank and Trust Company On Alamo Plaza next to Opera House; reached by all Alamo Plaza car lines except Nolan Street-Beacon Hill line. Empire Theater Corner of St. Mary's and Houston Streets ; reached by all cars except San Fernando. Princess Theater Formerly Orpheum; all Houston Street car lines except San Fernando. Royal Theater Houston Street near Empire and opposite Princess; reached by all Houston Street car lines except San Fernando. Star Theater Houston Street near Royal Theater; reached by all cars except San Fernando. San Fernando Cathedral Situated on west side of Main Plaza and east side of Military Plaza, north side of Trevino and south side of Galvan Streets; reached by all cars traversing Main Plaza. City Market House and Auditorium On Paschal Square and Milam Square; is principal convention hall and largest market in the city; chile stands surround it, and hay and wood are marketed on square west of it; reached by S. P., M., K. & T. and I. & G. N. cars and within a block of Alamo Heights-West End line and San Fernando line. S. P. and M., K. & T. Railway DepotOn East Commerce and Walnut Streets; is union station of those two railways ; reached by S. P., M., K. & T. and I. & G. N. Railway car line ; is a very large and hand- some station. S. A. & A. P. Railway Depot On Aransas and South Flores Streets; reached by Tobin Hill- Aransas Pass Railway line, Collins Gardens-Highland Park, South Flores-South Heights and Harlandale car lines. S. A., U. & G. Railway Station In Palm Heights; reached by Collins Gardens- Highland Park car line. Swearingen Building At the corner of Alamo Plaza and Houston Street; reached by all Houston Street car lines except San Fernando Street line. Viaducts There are three of these, built by the Southern Pacific Railway for the purpose of per- mitting traffic to pass above or under its tracks; the first is at Nolan and Walnut Streets, and permits traffic to pass below the railway tracks; it is of con- crete, resembling a tunnel; it is traversed by the Nolan Street-Beacon Hill cars. The second is a block north of the first and is at Hays and Walnut Streets, traffic passing above the railway tracks; this is a very high bridge and is of steel and concrete; it is one block from the Nolan Street-Beacon Hill car line. 90 The other viaduct is along New Braunfels Avenue, and extends two blocks from Sherman to Duval Street, passing above the repair tracks and yard of the Southern Pacific Railway at a great height; below it, at Olive and Duval Streets, is a smaller viaduct passing above the single track of the same railway. The nearest car line to any of these two viaducts is the Nolan Street-Beacon Hill line on Pine Street. The one on New Braunfels Avenue is of steel and concrete, and that on Olive Street is of wood. Good views of the city are to be obtained from the Hays Street, the New Braunfels Avenue and the Olive Street viaducts, and all of these structures are well worth visiting. -91 5TRLLT CAR DIRECTORY What Electric Cars to take to reach important and interesting points. TOURI5P5 HAND BOOK STRLLT CAR DIRECTORY ROUTES OP STREET RAILWAY LINES. The Army Post and San Pedro lines run from the top of Government Hill down Grayson to Austin Street, along Austin to Tenth Street. Thence to Avenue C and along the avenue to Houston Street. It goes along Hous- ton Street to Soledad and north on Soledad to Dallas, where it turns west and goes to the intersection of Main avenue and San Pedro Avenue. Going north, it goes along San Pedro Avenue, turns east and goes along Lo- cust to Main avenue and north along Main avenue to Russell, west along Russell to Howard Street, north along Howard to Magnolia and west along Magnolia back to San Pedro Avenue, down San Pedro and past San Pedro Park to Main Avenue, through Main Avenue back to Houston Street, east along Houston Street to Avenue C, north along Avenue C to Tenth, east on Tenth to Austin, north on Austin to Mason, east on Mason to New Braunfels and north up New Braunfels to Grayson. The Alamo Heights-West End car line starts at West End on Indiana Street; runs along that street and along the the edge of the West End Lake to Ban- dera; north up to the end of Bandera Street; then back south along Bandera Street to Ruiz Street; east on Ruiz Street to Medina Street; south on Medina to Houston Street; east on Houston Street to Avenue C; north on Avenue C into River Avenue ; north on River Avenue into Broadway, and around the loop on Alamo Heights back to River Avenue, and thence back over the same route as mentioned. The Nolan Street and Beacon Hill line commences at the intersection of Pine and Mason Streets; runs 94 south along Pine to Nolan Street; east along Nolan into Nacogdoches; south along Nacogdoches to Hous- ton Street; west along Houston to North Flores Street; north up North Flores Street to Summit Ave- nue; west along Summit to Grant; south on Grant to the Fredericksburg Road; thence back to North Flores; south on North Flores to Loustenau Alley; through this alley to Main Avenue, and south on Main Avenue to Houston Street, and back over Houston Street over the previously described route. The Tobin Hill line commences on the edge of the rock quarries in the northern part of the city at Hill- crest ; runs in King's Court to Jones Avenue ; through Jones Avenue to Kendall Street; thence west and north to Locust Street; west along Locust to Mc- Culloch; south on McCulloch to Brooklyn; south on Brooklyn to Camden ; west along Camden to San Pedro Avenue into Main Avenue; south along Main Avenue to Houston; east along Houston to South Alamo; south along Alamo, and southwest along South Alamo Street to Aransas Street, and out Aransas Street to San Antonio & Aransas Pass Railway depot; returning, it goes over Aransas, South Alamo and Houston Streets back^to Soledad Street; north along Soledad to Dallas Street; thence east to Brooklyn, and over Brooklyn to McCulloch and Locust Streets and back to King's Court and Hillcrest over the first-named portion of this route. The San Fernando route commences at the inter- section of Houston and Main Avenue; runs west to Pecos Street; south along South Pecos Street to South Laredo; thence to Paral; along Paral to Apache and to end of line at Union Stock Yards; it returns over the same route. The Summit line connects with the San Pedro-Army Post line at Howard and Huisache Streets, and runs north and south out Howard Street to King's High- way; across Summit Avenue, and back over the same route. 95 The San Jose line is an independent line, connect- ing with the South Flores and Harlandale line on South Flores Street and Corpus Christi Road; runs west from Corpus Christi Road and connects with a hack line to Terrell's Wells. The Harlandale-South Heights line commences in Harlandale on the Corpus Christi Road; runs north along that road and over the Arroya Piedra into South Flores Street in Beanville; thence north up South Flores Street to Military Plaza, turning east at Dolorosa Street into Main Plaza and around the north and east sides of Main Plaza into Soledad Street; thence north to Houston Street; east along Houston Street to Alamo Plaza and South Alamo Street; south to Goliad Street; east along Goliad Street to Peach Street; along Peach to Victoria Street; thence east to Hackberry, to Aransas Avenue; north on Aransas to Porter Street, and thence on Gervers Street to the end of the line ; and back over the same route. The Harlandale-South Heights line connects at Gervers Street with the East End line, which runs around a loop from the intersection with the South Heights line and along New Braunfels Avenue, Dil- worth Avenue, Iowa Street, Walters Street and North Commerce Street, where it connects with the Southern Pacific, M., K. & T. and I. & G. N. railway line. The Southern Pacific and M., K. & T. depots and I. & G. N. depot lines run from the intersection of New Braunfels and East Commerce Streets west along Commerce to South Alamo Street; east along Alamo Street and Alamo Plaza into Houston Street; west along Houston Street to Main Avenue; south on Main Avenue across the west side of Main Plaza to Dolorosa Street; west along Dolorosa Street to Buena Vista Street; west along Buena Vista Street to San Saba Street; thence north to West Commerce Street, and out West Commerce Street to the end of the line on Prospect Hill ; back again over the same route. 96 In Lakeview this line connects with the Lakeview line, which makes a loop commencing at West Twen- tieth, running to Delgado and thence to Twenty-fourth and back to Commerce Street. On Beacon Hill the Los Angeles Heights connects at Grant Avenue and Summit with the Beacon Hill line and runs north on Grant to North, and thence to Capitol Street, and thence to the end of the line; re- turning over the same route. The Highland Park-Collins Gardens line commences in Collins Gardens at St. Elmo Street; runs north along St. Elmo to Marian Street to the right of way of the San Antonio, Uvalde & Gulf Railway, and thence to the depot of that railway; thence along the right-of-way of that railway to Nogalitos Street, and thence into South Flores Street; north along South Flores Street to Dolorosa; east on Dolorosa and through Main Plaza and along the east side of that plaza into Soledad Street; north along Soledad Street into Houston Street; east along Houston Street to South Garden Street; thence out Pereida Street to South Presa Street, and south along South Presa to Buckingham Avenue; thence to Hackberry; along Hackberry to Rigsby and Rigsby to Olive, and thence to Walters, and out Walters to the end of the line; returning, goes over the same route. The Hot Wells line commences at Houston and Na- varro Streets; runs south along Navarro across the San Antonio River at Crockett and Navarro Streets and again at Market and Villita Streets, where it goes into Garden Street; and south on Garden Street to Pereida Street, where it goes into South Presa Street, and south on South Presa to the end of the line at Exposition Park, Hot Wells and Southwestern Insane Asylum, where it makes a loop and returns into South Presa Street. Coming back, it traverses this street to Pereida, thence to Garden; north along Garden to East Nueva Street, crossing the San An- tonio River at Nueva Street, and coming into Dwyer 97- Avenue; going north along Dwyer Avenue, the east side of Main Plaza into Soledad Street, it returns to Houston Street and thence back to Navarro and Hous- ton Streets. All car lines run along Houston Street, which is the main thoroughfare of the city, and on which many of the tall and fine buildings of the city are located. 98