THE 
 
 STEWARD'S HANDBOOK 
 
 GUIDE TO PARTY CATERING. 
 
 IN FIVE PARTS. 
 
 PART i. HOTEL STE WARDING AND COMPOSITION 
 OF BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 PART 2. RESTAURANT STEWARDING AND PUBLIC 
 PARTY CATERING. 
 
 PART 3. CATERING FOR PRIVATE PARTIES, AND 
 HEAD WAITERS AND THEIR TROOPS. 
 
 PART 4. A DICTIONARY OF DISHES AND CULINARY 
 TERMS AND SPECIALTIES. 
 
 PART 5. HOW TO FOLD NAPKINS. 
 
 JESSUP WHITEHEAD. 
 
 FOURTH EDITION. 
 CHICAGO. 
 
 JESSUP WHITEHEAD & CO,, PUBS. 
 
 1899.
 
 Entered according to Act of Congress in the Office of the Librarian, at Washington, by 
 JESSUP WHITEHEA.D, 1887 and 1889. All rights reserved.
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA* 
 SANTA BARBARA 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 In the preparation of this volume my aim has been to supply just such a 
 book as I wished for myself when I was a beginner in hotel employment and 
 feaw how much there was before me to learn before I could reach the paying 
 positions. It has fallen to my lot to be the first to write down what have hitherto 
 been the unwritten rules of hotel management; as the hotel system of this coun- 
 try is advancing and expanding, I have looked upwards and not downwards for 
 my examples; and I beg the reader, who may find some things contrary to his 
 preconceived notions of hotel interiors, to note that I have not made the mistake 
 of imagining that I had to invent a code or system, but have only had to state the 
 facts as they exist already; the expressions of opinion or advocacy of special rules 
 are but the links to make the whole plan coherent, where otherwise it would be 
 broken by the difference in practice of different hotel-keepers. It is due to those 
 who will disagree with me on some points to admit that my friends, the editors, 
 who have published some of the matter serially, found some statements BO op- 
 posed to their previous ideas they even hesitated to print them; the doctrine 
 which they seemed to think most monstrous is that laid down in " The Steward 
 and His Management of Help," beginning at the bottom of page 23. Perhaps 
 they read it hastily or misconstrued it. Though not too dogmatical to review my 
 own work and reconsider it, I have not, after a year's interval, found a word to 
 change, and have in the same time passed through experiences with two hotel 
 keepers which showed that they, at least, did not misunderstand, and the rule is 
 sound, always premising that the incoming man is a real steward and is com- 
 petent. It is a formal investment of the steward with his authority that is advo- 
 cated, the old and efficient hands do not really leave, they are trained to the sys- 
 tem and bow and accept the new dictator. The "clean sweep" business is 
 named in connection with corruption and misdoing. Let us suppose a case or 
 call it reality if you will: A man is sent for by a hotel proprietor to be steward, 
 and the proprietor says: "My help all seem to be unmanageable; they are in- 
 subordinate, noisy, quarrelsome, independent, insolent; I want you to change all 
 this; it is injuring my business." The new steward finds a too-good barkeeper, a 
 pet of the proprietor, too, is giving the hands whisky, and this ill-advised liberal- 
 ity with his employer's property is making the barkeeper the most popular man 
 in the house, but is keeping the hands half drunk and unmanageable. All the 
 power the steward has over the barkeeper is to notify him not to treat his hands 
 any more, but that does not help much, for his hands are then sulky and sullen,
 
 li PREFACE. 
 
 his bitter enemies. That is the time for a "clean sweep," or else the steward must 
 back down and leave. In another place it may be a colored girl, my lady's pam- 
 pered and bejewelled maid, who is the power behind the throne; who orders the 
 cooks and sends the waiters away on errands, and the new steward finds that 
 when he gives his directions the help all look to the pet maid to see whether they 
 are to obey him or not. If the decaying proprietor of such a declining business 
 s this symbolizes wants reform there must be a "clean sweep," not necessarily of 
 ihe maid, too, but new hands must come in who have not learned to look that 
 way for orders. 
 
 In short, I have entertained the idea of writing this book for years past, and 
 made observations accordingly so extensive and thorough as to be able to claim a 
 full preparation for the task before it was undertaken. The interior of a large 
 hotel is not a place of pleasure for the employes. All the heads of departments 
 are autocrats in their sphere if they are good men ; if they are bad men they may 
 be tyrants. 
 
 In regard to the dictionary, which will commend itself at a glance, it only 
 needs to be said that in the anticipation that it will find a welcome not only among 
 hotel stewards and c/iefs, but among diners-out, bons-vivants, club men, restaura- 
 teurs, printers who set up bills of fare, editors with gastronomical proclivities, and 
 the polite world in general, I have made it as light reading as was practicable, by 
 embodying the brightest and best paragraphs on every subject .in turn by the best 
 writers wherever they could be found. This is the dictionary of that peculiar 
 culinary language, which is not to be found in the regular dictionaries of any 
 tongue, however complete otherwise; it is the language of epicurism and of the 
 table. 
 
 Possibly the practice which has prevailed for some time of interpolating 
 poetical quotations in the bill of fare might be improved by the introduction of 
 informatory paragraphs about some special kind of game, fish, or novelty in sweets, 
 turning the attention of those who dine upon one leading feature of the dinner by 
 giving an intimation of its quality, its rarity, its merits, its relation to literature, its 
 origin. Suitable quotations of that kind will be found abundant in this volume. 
 They might be accredited to "The Epicurean Dictionary," which will be fair and 
 impartial to all, for it has been found neither expedient nor even possible to name 
 the authors whose words are placed in quotation marks herein ; some of them, it is 
 true, belong to the most famous names, but the greater part are the words of un- 
 known contributors to current literature whose terse sentences offered the briefest 
 
 explanation of the subjects named. 
 
 J.W.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 THE HOTEL STEWARD AND HIS DUTIES. The Steward Out of Fash- 
 ion. A New Class of Stewards. Stewards of Other Days. "The Evil Which 
 Men Do Lives After Them." The Pernicious Commission System. Some- 
 thing Less Manly. A Specimen Letter. The Steward the Superior Officer. 
 The Steward Deals Only With the Head Men. The Steward as Buyer. 
 The Steward Puts In His Fancy Work. All Stewards Carve. Assistant 
 Carvers. The Steward and the Bill of .Fare. The Steward Who Does Not 
 Know. The Steward Is the Overseer First and Last. The Steward as a 
 Worker. The Steward Manages the Meats. Stewards Needed Everywhere. 
 The Steward and the Landlady. The Steward and the Housekeeper. The 
 Steward and the Headwaiter. The Steward and His Adversaries. The 
 Steward and the Storekeeper. The Steward and His Store-room. The 
 Steward and the Care of Meats. The Steward and His Management of 
 Help. The Steward and the Hands' Pay-Day. The Steward and the Clerks. 
 The Steward and the Proprietor. The Inside Steward's Special Duties. 
 The Wine-room Steward's Special Duties. The Steward and the Dairy. 
 The Steward and the Dish-room. The Steward and His Workshops. When * 
 the Steward's Good Time Comes. Who Shall Be Stewards? Promote the 
 Good Cooks Pages 3 to 30. 
 
 STOREKEEPING AND BOOK-KEEPING. How Stores Are Issued and 
 Charged. Blank Requisitions. The Storekeeper Must Rise Early. Store- 
 room Hours. The Store-room Issue Book. Example of Written Book (pages 
 34-35) Mammoth Requisition List Showing All Articles Needed In Hotels 
 (page 36). Pastry Requisition of Same House (page 37). Largest Form of 
 Issue Book and Grand Total of All Departments (pages 38-39) The Same 
 by a Simpler System (pages 40-41). Changing Cooks in a Large Hotel. 
 How the New Chef Begins His Duties. The Drinking Habits of Cooks. 
 Pages 30 to 45. 
 
 HOW TO WRITE THE BILL OF FARE. The American Hotel Dinner Bill 
 the Standard. The Hotel Press and Recent improvements. Bill of Fare or 
 Menu? Headings or No Headings? What Should the Headings Be? Serv- 
 ing Potatoes With Fish. Always Serve Fish On Small Plates. Which First, 
 Joints or Entrees? Three Royal Examples. The Place for the Cold Meats. 
 Current Criticisms. A Representative Italian Bill of Fare. The Dinner 
 In Courses. The Sorbet or Punch. Those Everlasting Relishes. Specimen 
 Bill of Fare. How Many Dishes? One Soup or Two? How Many Kinds of 
 Fish? How Many Entrees? How Many Vegetables? How Many Kinds of 
 Pastry? Conclusions In Regard To the Dinner Bill. Lunch and Dinner or 
 Dinner and Supper? How Much for Lunch? What Sort of Dishes for 
 ? The Breakfast Bill of Fare. Specimen Breakfast Bills. About the 
 
 (iii)
 
 Iv CONTENTS. 
 
 American Breakfast. A Small Pattern, But Sufficient. The American Sup- 
 per or Tea. Rising Equal to the Emergency. Combination of Dinner and 
 Supper With Newly Printed Bills Each Day. List of Dishes for Breakfast 
 and Supper Bills ............................................ Pages 45 to 76. 
 
 RESTAURANT STEWARDING. Comparison of the Hotel and Restaurant Sys- 
 tems. The Rise of the Restaurant. A Typical American Restaurateur. The 
 Restaurant Steward and the Market Men. How to "Stand In" with the Market 
 Men. Keeping Provisions. A Specimen First-class Restaurant Bill of Fare. 
 
 A Few Entrees and a Little Management. The Merchants' Lunch House 
 and Bill of Fare. The Bakery Lunch. The Place and not the Man. The 
 Man and not the Place. The Bar-room Free Lunch. A Russian Restaurant. 
 
 The Oyster and Fish Restaurant and Bill of Fare. How the Pay is Col- 
 lected. The Common Meal Check. The Written Order Check. The Hidden 
 Watch System. The Great American Restaurant System. The Bouillons- 
 Duval System. Spiers and Pond's London Restaurant System, pages 7610 100. 
 The London Check System ...................................... Page 202. 
 
 American Hotel Check System ................................... Page 203. 
 
 CLUB STEWARDING AND CATERING. About Clubs in General. Part/ 
 Catering. Mistakes in Entertaining. Rules for Party Catering. Some F,r- 
 ceptions. Ball Suppers. How to Set the Tables. Small Tables. Whafr, to 
 Set Upon Them. Difference in Cost of Suppers. Quantities and Qualities. 
 What Decorated Meat Dishes Consist Of. What the Ornamental Baskets of 
 Cake Contain. What the Moulded Ices and Jellies Are. Setting Long 
 Tables. When They Dance in the Dining Room. The Stand-up Supper. 
 The Bazar Supper. The Handed Supper. The Ornamental Handed Supper 
 .......................................................... Pages 100 to 117. 
 
 :E>.A_:R,T in. 
 
 CATERING FOR PRIVATE PARTIES. Large and Small Catering Busi- 
 nesses. Lady Caterers. More Rules for Stewards and Caterers. Ball Supper 
 for 200. Provisions and Materials Used. A Young Lady's Birthday Recep- 
 tion for 50. Snow-bound Dinner. Church Festival. Club Reception. Cold 
 Lunch for 300. Private Reception. Experience of an English Manager. 
 Dinners at Various Prices. Base Ball or Cricket Lunches, Various Prices. 
 A Quotation Menu ........................................ Pages 125 to 135. 
 
 FANTASIES OF PARTY GIVERS. A Pink Dinner in Washington. A 
 Yellow Dinner in Boston. A White Dinner in London. A Violet Supper. 
 A Dinner in Scarlet and Black. A Pink Rose Dinner. A White Lily Din- 
 ner. A Mermaid Dinner. Crowns, Stars and Diamonds. The Plateau. 
 Changing Fashions in Wine Glasses. A Figurative Dinner. A Vari-colored 
 Dinner in Buffalo. A Tropical Dinner in New York. Fish Dinners in Paris. 
 
 French Dinner Table Decorations. Imitating Lucullus. Royal Soup. 
 The Same Idea With a Purpose In It. Floral Decorations at President Ar- 
 thur's State Dinners. President Cleveland's Table. Floral Decorations at the 
 Princess' Ball. Tens of Thousands of Flowers. Decorated Dishes at Mrs. 
 Vanderbilt's Reception. Mrs. Vanderbilt's Diamond Ball. The Progressive 
 Dinner Novelty. The Lady Had a New Idea. Couldn't "Call Off" the En- 
 trees. Notions In Silver. The Vienna Coffee Fashion. Different China for
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Each Course. Candles and Glass Shades. Notions in Ices. Changing Dec- 
 orations for Each Meal. A Boating Club's Fantasy. Scene Painted Ball 
 Suppers. Sea Caverns and Fairy Grottoes. A Sea Shell Dinner. A Wed- 
 ding Banquet. Grand Wedding Receptions. Wedding Breakfasts and the 
 Prices Charged. Eight Specimen Menus. Something About the Cost. Ten 
 Dollars per Plate. Five Dollars per Plate Without Wine. Six Dollars With 
 Wine at the Cafe Royal. Two Dollars Without Wine. A Ten-dollar Meal 
 for Five Dollars. Dinners at Thirty Dollars. Temperance Catering. Tipsy 
 Fruit at a Temperance Banquet. Prohibitionists and Fashionable Cookery. 
 Too Rich for His Blood. Sarcastic, But Suggestive ......... Pages 135 to 157 
 
 STEWARDING AND CATERING ON A GRAND SCALE. Stewarding at 
 Harvard University. At Vassar College. At Windsor Castle. At a Peni- 
 tentiary. Steamship Stewarding. Purchasing for a Large Hotel. The 
 American Game List. Lunch .for 5,600 people. The American Clam Bake. 
 
 How It Is Done. The American Barbecue. The Improved Barbecue. 
 The Primitive Barbecue. An Electric Lighted Barbecue. How an Ox Was 
 Boiled Whole. The Number, Weights and Price for 3,000. The French 
 Governmental Banquet to 3,000 Mayors. A Railway Eating House in Sweden. 
 
 Breakfast for 10,500 people. Catering at the Manchester Exhibition. Hov\ 
 30,000 Children Were Fed. Catering for the Multitude. Stewarding for the 
 Sultan. The Army Hospital Steward. Exposition Catering. Catering at 
 the Piedmont Exposition. Training a Storekeeper. The Store-room Stock 
 Book ..................................................... Pages 157 to 184. 
 
 THE HEADWAITER AND HIS TROOPS. The Headwaiter. The Head- 
 waiter's Importance. The Headwaiter Does No Waiting. Scarcity of Good 
 Headwaiters. The Foreign Headwaiter. In American Hotels. Organizing 
 the Troops. Waiter's Uniforms. Telling Off the Watches. Watch On, 
 Watch Off. Let the Headwaiters Tell It. Another Headwaiter Talks. 
 ' What the Dining Room Chief Talks About. Waiters Drill for a Banquet. 
 Who Are the Best Waiters? Waiters' Wages and Tips. Cherubs at the 
 Hotels. Rough on the Waiters. London Waiters. Paris Waiters. Disci- 
 pline in Paris Restaurants. Accommodating Waiters. Tricky Waiters. 
 Berlin Waiters. A German Baron Waiter. How Waiters Fight Duels. 
 Female Waiters. New York Waiter Girls. A Dining Room Juno. The 
 Pennsylvania-Dutch Waitress. The Mischief of Pretty Waiter Girls. Girls 
 on a Strike. Another Strike of Waitresses. Respect Instead of Money. 
 Colored Waiters. Trcubles Common to All. The Tyranny of the Chef. 
 Another Trouble. A Few Types of Waiters. Just a Plain Waiter. A Wait- 
 ter's Valentine. A Waiter's Wife. A Treasure of a Waiter. Waiters' Christ- 
 mas ...................................................... Pages 184 to 218. 
 
 :e>.A.:EtT iv. 
 
 IN THE DICTIONARY OF DISHES will be found under the respective 
 letters Consommes. Drinks. Egg Cookery. German Cookery. Greek 
 Cookery. Ices. Italian Cookery. Jewish Cookery. Mexican Cookery. 
 Oriental Cookery. Potages. Sauces. Soups. Spanish Cookery. Scottish 
 Cookery, Etc., Etc ............ . ............................ Pages 219 to 464. 
 
 SERVIETTES AND HOW TO FOLD THEM, fully illustrated, Appendix, 
 .............................................................. Pages i to 29.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 HOTEL STEWARDING 
 
 SHOWING THE INTERNAL WORKINGS OF THE AMERICAN 
 SYSTEM OF HOTEL KEEPING. 
 
 THE STEWARD'S DUTIES 
 
 IN DETAIL AND IN RELATION TO OTHER HEADS 
 OF DEPARTMENTS. 
 
 Steward's Storekeeping, Steward's Bookkeeping, 
 
 AND MANAGEMENT OF HELP. 
 
 ALSO, 
 
 COMPOSITION OF BILLS OF FARE, 
 
 THE REASONS WHY, AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIVE MENUS 
 OF MEALS ON THE AMERICAN PLAN 
 
 JESSUP WHITEHEAD. 
 
 CHICAGO. 
 
 1899.
 
 Entered accorm.j^- to Act of Congress in the Office of the Librarian, at Washington, by 
 JESSCP WHITEHEAD, 1889. All rights reserved.
 
 THE HOTEL STEWARD AND HIS DUTIES. 
 
 The steward is out of fashion just at 
 present, although there are indications 
 that the time is coming around again 
 when he will take his proper place in the 
 hotel economy, a place second in import- 
 ance only to that of the proprietor. He 
 has been dropping out of fashion more 
 and more every year for a long period, 
 while the chef gained the ascendancy, till 
 now the steward and his position are al- 
 most forgotten. It used to be sufficient to 
 say that Mr. So-and-so was the proprietor 
 and Mr. Somebody was his steward, and 
 that included everything, for the steward 
 had his headwaiter, his cook, his pastry 
 cook. Some stewards of the few remaining 
 write my cook, etc., yet, from the force of 
 old habits, but really there are but few and 
 they are but seldom heard of. There are 
 plenty of indications to satisfy anyone that 
 this is the case. There is no employe* of 
 any importance about a hotel or restaurant 
 so seldom mentioned in print now as the 
 steward, and if one of them does appear 
 in print through his own writing, he gets 
 but a nod like any stranger, and at once 
 disappears. It is very rarely that any ad- 
 vertisement appears of a steward wanted, 
 and when occasionally a steward adver- 
 tises for a situation it is half-heartedly, for 
 most of such advertisements end with an 
 offer to assist with something else, as if it 
 was scarcely expected that any hotel keeper 
 could possibly want a steward, or as if a 
 steward's duties were not exacting enough 
 to demand every minute of his time ; some, 
 who so advertise, have been stewards, they 
 say, twenty years or more; that is, they are 
 of the old stock of stewards, remainders 
 from the stewards era, and cannot help 
 offering themselves. But the young men 
 
 who advertise numerously wants to be 
 assistant managers, managers of small 
 houses, caterers, occasionally, or store- 
 keepers and assistant clerks, anything but 
 steward, and letters of inquiry come to the 
 hotel newspaper offices innocently asking 
 what the steward's duties are, almost by 
 implication asking what stewards are for. 
 About a year ago some newspaper man 
 interviewed the proprietor of a large hotel 
 in Washington and asked him about the 
 methods of internal management, and 
 asked: "How do you know how much to 
 cook?" "I confer with my chef" answered 
 the proprietor and then we do thus and 
 so, and the dialogue included many such 
 questions. But where was the steward in 
 that case? 
 
 Another such indication comes to hand 
 in a very late number of the Hotel World, 
 after the foregoing had been written, and 
 must be repeated for its worth and to help 
 confirm the position taken, that the steward 
 is out of fashion, and the chef is in the as- 
 cendant: 
 
 The chef of a large Saratoga hotel is re- 
 ported as saying: "We receive word from 
 the office every morning how many people 
 there are in the house, and there are cer- 
 tain well established rules for calculation. 
 For instance, among a certain number of 
 people so many will take roast beef, and 
 we have found by experiment that 100 
 people require a side of beef weighing 
 about forty pounds. Among the same 100 
 people forty or fifty chickens will be needed, 
 according to the size of the chickens. We 
 can calculate pretty closely, but we have 
 to be liberal, so that if fifty or sixty people 
 come in to dinner whom we did not expect, 
 there will not be a scant supply. I make
 
 Emerea accord*.**- to Act of Congress in the Office of the Librarian, at Washington, by 
 JESSUP WHITEHEAD, iSSo. All rights reserved.
 
 THE HOTEL STEWARD AND HIS DUTIES. 
 
 The steward is out of fashion just at 
 present, although there are indications 
 that the time is coming around again 
 when he will take his proper place in the 
 hotel economy, a place second in import- 
 ance only to that of the proprietor. He 
 has been dropping out of fashion more 
 and more every year for a long period, 
 while the chef gained the ascendancy, till 
 now the steward and his position are al- 
 most forgotten. It used to be sufficient to 
 say that Mr. So-and-so was the proprietor 
 and Mr. Somebody was his steward, and 
 that included everything, for (he steward 
 had his head waiter, kis cook, his pastry 
 cook. Some stewards of the few remaining 
 write my cook, etc., yet, from the force of 
 old habits, but really there are but few and 
 they are but seldom heard of. There are 
 plenty of indications to satisfy anyone that 
 this is the case. There is no employe" of 
 any importance about a hotel or restaurant 
 so seldom mentioned in print now as the 
 steward, and if one of them does appear 
 in print through his own writing, he gets 
 but a nod like any stranger, and at once 
 disappears. It is very rarely that any ad- 
 vertisement appears of a steward wanted, 
 and when occasionally a steward adver- 
 tises for a situation it is half-heartedly, for 
 most of such advertisements end with an 
 offer to assist with something else, as if it 
 was scarcely expected that any hotel keeper 
 could possibly want a steward, or as if a 
 steward's duties were not exacting enough 
 to demand every minute of his time; some, 
 who so advertise, have been stewards, they 
 say, twenty years or more; that is, they are 
 of the old stock of stewards, remainders 
 from the stewards era, and cannot help 
 offering themselves. But the young men 
 
 who advertise numerously wants to be 
 assistant managers, managers of small 
 houses, caterers, occasionally, or store- 
 keepers and assistant clerks, anything but 
 steward, and letters of inquiry come to the 
 hotel newspaper offices innocently asking 
 what the steward's duties are, almost by 
 implication asking what stewards are for. 
 About a year ago some newspaper man 
 interviewed the proprietor of a large hotel 
 in Washington and asked him about the 
 methods of internal management, and 
 asked: "How do you know how much to 
 cook?" "I confer with my chef" answered 
 the proprietor and then we do thus and 
 so, and the dialogue included many such 
 questions. But where was the steward in 
 that case? 
 
 Another such indication comes to hand 
 in a very late number of the Hotel World, 
 after the foregoing had been written, and 
 must be repeated for its worth and to help 
 confirm the position taken, that the steward 
 is out of fashion, and the chef is in the as- 
 cendant: 
 
 The chef of a large Saratoga hotel is re- 
 ported as saying: "We receive word from 
 the office every morning how many people 
 there are in the house, and there are cer- 
 tain well established rules for calculation. 
 For instance, among a certain number of 
 people so many will take roast beef, and 
 we have found by experiment that 100 
 people require a side of beef weighing 
 about forty pounds. Among the same 100 
 people forty or fifty chickens will be needed, 
 according to the size of the chickens. We 
 can calculate pretty closely, but we have 
 to be liberal, so that if fifty or sixty people 
 come in to dinner whom we did not expect, 
 there will not be a scant supply. I make
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 out the bill of fare for each day's dinner on 
 the afternoon of the previous day. I look 
 over my stock, ask the steward what he 
 expects to have in by the morning trains, 
 and thus knowing the material I shall have 
 to work with on the morrow, the bill of 
 fare is made out." 
 
 The above is according to fact, but if 
 everything in the hotel system were in its 
 proper order it would have been the stew- 
 ard who did the taking, conferred with the 
 cook, instead of being questioned by the 
 cook, and who would have suggested the 
 bill of fare and revised it after the cJief had 
 written it 
 
 A 3 r ear or two ago a young proprietor in 
 sore trouble applied to the writer to assist 
 him in finding a different variety of cooks 
 from those he had met; he said he had 
 tried all sorts, the high-priced association 
 cooks among the rest, and he stigmatized 
 them all as a man will who is tormented. 
 He wrote: "I want a cook who can com- 
 pute the cost of his meals, who knows the 
 difference between skillful work and com- 
 mon extravagance, who will remain at his 
 post until the meal is over, and be as will- 
 ing to earn his wages as I am to pay them.'' 
 This young proprietor has come into the 
 business while stewards are out of fashion, 
 and it never occurred to him that what he 
 really did want was a steward. There are 
 no cooks who will do all that he sees should 
 be done, none that have learned to compute 
 the cost of meals, except with the coopera- 
 tion of the steward and store-keeper; 
 where there is no steward something is 
 neglected to be done. Although this ne- 
 cessary officer may be absent, his duties are 
 there to be performed in every hotel, and 
 are divided amongst several, and as these 
 cannot do as well as a man trained to the 
 special duties of the position, there must 
 necessarily be irregularity, incompleteness 
 and loss in the hotel system. 
 
 A NEW CLASS OF STEWARDS. 
 
 If there is to be a new beginning, if the 
 steward is to catch up "with his proper place 
 In the line of hotel improvement, so that 
 
 he will be found where he ought to be in 
 every hotel, and if it is become so that the 
 steward will be engaged first and the cooks 
 at any time afterwards, instead of the pres- 
 ent general practice, there must be a model 
 for young men to build upon. It is impos- 
 sible now to give a satisfactory answer to 
 the inquiries that are received as to what 
 constitute a steward's duties, for it is too 
 indefinite a question. There are two dif- 
 ferent sorts of stewards at present filling 
 the positions where they are filled, and one 
 of these types will endure and be the hotel 
 steward of a few years later, and then his 
 duties will be well defined. One of these 
 is the New England steward, the other is 
 the New York steward, which is the same 
 as the ship steward and the Southern 
 steamboat steward of years ago. Nothing 
 invidiously sectional is meant by the adop- 
 tion of these distinguishing terms. There 
 are New England stewards in New York 
 and stewards of the New England type; 
 they are the men who go from the North 
 every winter to take the same positions in 
 the same Florida hotels year after year; 
 not all of them are of New England birth, 
 some are Canadians, or of more distant 
 origin still ; when by chance they have to 
 advertise for a position they describe them- 
 selves as working stewards. And there 
 are stewards of the nautical New York 
 type in New England (for New York is 
 but the rendezvous for steamship men and 
 steamboat men), the bossing and buying 
 stewards, who are officers and used to dis- 
 cipline, yet absolute in authority in their 
 own department, and fine men in their own 
 sphere; yet, somehow, they do not assimil- 
 ate with the hotel system ; neither do they 
 who learn from them. Proprietors, after a 
 trial, prefer to carry on their business with- 
 out them, and the steward drops out of 
 sight The kind of man that is coming to 
 the front is a bossing and buying and 
 working steward, too. He knows what 
 should be done, how it should be, and sees 
 that it is so, and when there is any neces- 
 sity whatever for him to do so he can take 
 hold and do it himself.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 A more efficient set of men, who yet do 
 not suit the hotel system, cannot be imag- 
 ined than the stewards of the ocean steam- 
 ships and old-time, long-trip river steam- 
 boats. They have entire charge; the pas- 
 sengers must look to them for everything 
 and not to the captain, who is but a court 
 of appeal, a higher authority in reserve. 
 When complaint is made to the captain he 
 is very apt to say, "Sir or Madam, I have a 
 steward who manages all those matters, he 
 will arrange those things to your satisfac- 
 tion, you had better speak to him." If a 
 polite commander, and desirous of pleas- 
 ing the passengers, perhaps he will promise 
 to see the steward about it himself ; beyond 
 that he does not interfere, and for good 
 reason, for he has other cares and duties, 
 those connected with the cargo and with 
 navigation. These stewards are everything 
 to the passengers ; the head waiter is sec- 
 ond steward; his next best man is third 
 steward, and it is no wonder if all the wait- 
 ers come to be called stewards irj such a 
 case, as they are on some steam vessels; 
 and this practice has had such effect that 
 anywhere south and southwest from 
 Washington and Baltimore the native ho- 
 tel proprietors call their head waiter their 
 steward, and when they engage a steward 
 they expect he is going to take charge of 
 the dining room and waiters, if not wait on 
 table himself. But these efficient steam- 
 ship and steamboat stewards are not suited 
 to even the modern hotel, because the pro- 
 prietor must have something to do, not 
 having any cares of cargo and navigation 
 on his mind, and if such a steward excer- 
 cises his full function he becomes the big 
 man and the proprietor the little man of 
 the house. There cannot be two kings 
 over one small kingdom; one of them 
 has to abdicate. The proprietor cannot and 
 does not deny that the steward is right 
 about his duties and prerogatives, but he 
 does a quieter way, concludes that he does 
 not need a steward; will perform part of 
 the duties himself and puts the other part 
 upon the chef. 
 
 STEWARDS OF OTHER DAYS. 
 
 Those old-time Mississippi steamboat 
 stewards were fine models of executive 
 ability; they were remarkable men in their 
 way, and are worth a passing description, 
 for we shall never see their like again ; the 
 same state of their business will never exist 
 again, for they were without the telegraph, 
 practically without mail or express, since 
 their boat carried the mail and they could 
 hardly send word ahead, and the express 
 reached only the railroad points which were 
 limited then to the northern cities. They 
 were models for the summer resort stew- 
 ard whose hotel is off the regular lines of 
 travel, in a difficult country, destitute of 
 local markets and with slow and uncertain 
 means of communication. Indeed those 
 stewards were generally resort men them- 
 selves, for the boating season was in winter 
 and spring, and the best of them had sum- 
 mer engagements at the various fashionable 
 " Springs " to pass away the time when the 
 rivers were low and the crops were not 
 ready to be moved. These stewards had 
 entire charge and control of the victualling 
 department and hiring of help and rate of 
 wages to be paid. The captain held but one 
 powerful restraint upon them ; he and the 
 chief clerk, who was the cashier and pay- 
 master, kept up a rigid comparison of the 
 bills for each month and for the same 
 months of former years, and, in a general 
 way, the steward who could run the boat 
 with the smallest monthly bills was the 
 man they wanted for that position. While 
 this fear of running up a monthly expense 
 account that the captain wouldn't stand, 
 was a great check upon the entire steward's 
 department, the men who were smart 
 enough to be stewards were fertile in ex- 
 pedients for dodging a direct comparison, 
 and often made their dearest months seem 
 the very contrary, either by collusion with 
 the merchants or by special excuses plaus- 
 ibly presented. The captain did not know 
 the waiters nor whence they came, nor did 
 he know the cooks, unless by chance he 
 had one of some repute, but if this steward 
 required twenty waiters and seven cooks
 
 6 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 and another could run the boat with fifteen 
 waiters and five cooks, the cheaper man 
 had the better chance of the position. 
 These are the same checks and balances 
 which hold good in the hotel of to-day, and 
 everywhere, but there were other checks 
 in the thorough first-class steward's favor, 
 for the captains were desirous of a good 
 reputation for their craft and had rivals in 
 the business, and the dearer man often had 
 his day to be on top regardless of expense. 
 Where the special ability of this class of 
 men was best shown was in the provision- 
 ing of the boat in advance, and so manag- 
 ing that every succeeding day's dinner 
 would be better than the last, and the last 
 dinner of the trip was complete with every 
 luxury of the season, although it might be 
 seven or eight days since they left the city 
 and the markets, and there was always a 
 degree of uncertainty as to how many pas- 
 sengers might come on board at the various 
 towns and landings of a ten or twelve or 
 fifteen hundred mile trip. The boat's crew 
 of deck hands and firemen, amounting to 
 anywhere from twenty to sixty or seventy 
 men, were also provided for by the stew- 
 ard, and calculations for them had to be 
 made as well as for the cabin, just as the 
 hotel steward has to provide separately for 
 a large portion of " the help." 
 
 Going down stream they left orders at 
 certain landings for the boat storemen to 
 have so much milk, chickens, eggs, or such 
 things, ready by a certain day on their re- 
 turn ; for the rest the trusted to their well- 
 managed ice-chests and store-room. The 
 steward hired the stewardesses, who is the 
 same as the hotel housekeeper, and she 
 generally hired two girls to help her. The 
 steward, likewise, hired the porter and bar- 
 ber, but had nothing to do with the bar- 
 keeper, nor engineers, or mate's crew. 
 There was a pantryman, who did not wait 
 at table ; the fifteen or twenty waiters were 
 divided into berth-makers (instead of cham- 
 ber-maids), lamp-trimmers, knife-cleaners 
 (for plated knives had not yet come into 
 use), napkin-folders, and the usual side 
 work, and they filled in all their time be- 
 
 sides in scrubbing paint, except the short 
 interval in the afternoon. 
 
 These waiters had to carry all the stores 
 on board from the wharf, whether at the 
 city starting point or at way landings, so 
 that the steward and those he hired and 
 controlled carried on the entire hotel de- 
 partment of the boat without aid or inter- 
 ference from anybody. Steamboats are 
 still running under much the same rules. 
 This is spoken of in the past tsnse, because 
 it refers to a time when the passenger trade 
 was so good that the steamboat table was 
 as good as money and skill could make it, 
 and the time on each trip was long enough 
 to make the steamboat more like a hotel in 
 some out-of-the-way place than the light- 
 ning-express boats of to-day can possibly 
 be ; and, besides the best of their time was 
 from ten to twenty years B. W., which 
 means before the war. So, presumably, 
 those old-time stewards are all dead and 
 cannot object to the statements contained 
 in the next chapter. 
 
 "THE EVIL WHICH MEN DO LIVES AFTER 
 THEM." 
 
 These men, these old-time river stewards, 
 are largely to blame for the fact that there 
 are so few stewards now in the hotels. 
 Their standard of morals was generally 
 very low; they were sharps, they were 
 universally "on the make." When the 
 passenger trade was taken away from them 
 by the building of railroads they naturally 
 went into the hotels, where they were not 
 adapted to remain, the hotels being gen- 
 erally not large enough to hold them and 
 not wealthy enough to stand the " bleed- 
 ing" which the river steward could not 
 live without resorting to. 
 
 About five years ago a party of four 
 or five old survivors met together talk- 
 ing, and a number of young hotel boys 
 sat around learning steward wisdom as it 
 fell from their lips. Said one: 
 
 " What! Don't you know how it was we 
 river fellows never could make a go of it 
 in a hotel ?" 
 
 " No; what was the reason?" 
 
 "Landladies!"
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 And then he brought his lips together, 
 bulged out his cheeks, and looked around 
 as if that one immense word was all that 
 need be uttered. Soon he resumed: 
 
 " You know there's no landladies on the 
 boats and oh, well," with a shrug, "in the 
 hotel pastry room and kitchen you don't 
 see the difference, for they don't go there 
 much, but we are all about the house and 
 so are they, and when we go to run it 
 right we step on their toes every once in a 
 while." 
 
 "Well," said another, "I got a pretty 
 good 'sit* in there at the St James, and 
 never quite knew how I got out of it, but 
 somebody must have been meddling. You 
 
 know I was on the N No. 2 and on No. 
 
 3; they both burned up, and then I went 
 and brought out the new No. 4, but there 
 was no water that season and she couldn't 
 
 run ; so Captain C took me over to the 
 
 St. James and gave me an introduce, and I 
 went as steward of the house, and 1 made 
 up my mind that was better than a boat 
 and I could keep my family cheaper. There 
 was my buggy ready for me at five every 
 morning to go the rounds of the markets, 
 and I would go to the butcher's and pick 
 out what I wanted for the day, and I would 
 pick out a roast for myself and order that 
 sent around to my house when they sent 
 the wagon with meat to the hotel ; then 
 down to the fish market and vegetable mar- 
 ket and do the same. Then I drove back 
 to the house and when the stuff came in I 
 weighed it, footed up what I had bought, 
 took the bills to the office and they handed 
 me the money to go and pay them with, 
 for they paid cash on the nail every day, 
 and after breakfast I went around again 
 and paid for everything received that morn- 
 ing. Every week or two I would say to 
 the butcher, ' Well, what do I owe you for 
 what you have sent to my family ?' ' Oh, 
 nothing,' says he, 'that's all right,' and not 
 one of the others ever charged me a cent, 
 either, and I was getting along as good as 
 you could expect of a hotel ; but somebody 
 must have been meddling, for I had a little 
 unpleasantness in the office and I quit." 
 
 Then another took up the conversation: 
 " We hadn't such a bad time with those 
 boats when the seasons were right, with 
 plenty of water in the rivers. A fellow had 
 to be in with the boat store-men and then 
 he was all right, for they could get him a 
 berth if he got out, and would pull him 
 through a hard time. Yes, they were a 
 clever lot of fellows. I used to stay around 
 with old Tom Curtice and son at Vicks- 
 burg, and I've seen the time when it was 
 pretty hard to pull through from one season 
 to another, I tell you, but whenever I went 
 to Curtice he would say, 'Well, Frank, 
 how is it now?' 'By jing,' says I, 'it's 
 pretty tough when a boat's so long coming 
 out.' Well, Frank,' says old Tom, what 
 do you want, what can we do for you ; all 
 you've got to do is to say it?' 'Well, Mr. 
 Curtice,' says I, 'about twenty-five dollars 
 to pay house rent is the size of it.' Then 
 without another word he would turn to his 
 son and say, " Richard, open the drawer 
 and hand Frank twenty-five dollars no, 
 give him thirty, he can use it,' and that's 
 all there would be about it. It might be 
 months afterward, but sometime I would 
 say, ' Mr. Curtice, how about that thirty 
 dollars I owe you?' 'Oh, don't name it,' 
 says he, 'you don't owe us a cent; but how 
 many tierces of ham, bacon, shoulders and 
 lard shall we send aboard this morning?' 
 Well, it was to their interest to be clever to 
 us and they knew it. The captain was stuck 
 on having all the stores purchased in New 
 Orleans, but in the first place it was not his 
 business where I got my stores, as long as 
 the price was right, and then it was the 
 easiest thing in the world for me to forget, 
 or have it come from the New Orleans 
 house late enough to miss the boat, and 
 have to take on stores at Vicksburg, any- 
 way." 
 
 Such are the favorite topics the old-tim- 
 ers love to converse upon and the hotel 
 boys think they are learning from them 
 how to be stewards. 
 
 One year ago one of these same young 
 men, who listened for hours to the talk of 
 the party above named, was met by the
 
 8 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 writer in the South. In the interval he 
 had been steward, or part steward, in a 
 hotel in a town on the Hudson, and what 
 he told of his experience showed that the 
 lessons in stewarding, he had listened to, 
 were not thrown away upon him. 
 
 When met he was the roast cook in a 
 large hotel at forty dollars per month, and 
 In answer to the question how he was 
 getting along, he replied : 
 
 "Oh, I made the worst sort of a break 
 for myself when I came down here. I had 
 a good little house up in York State ; I was 
 c/ief, but the house did not keep a steward 
 and I did the buying for them, and was 
 doing very well, but I kicked because they 
 would only pay sixty dollars. But if I had 
 looked at it right that house was worth a 
 hundred dollars a month to me, every cent 
 of it, and it was a small house and I didn't 
 have to work hard." 
 
 "But how was it worth a hundred a 
 month to you ?" 
 
 "Well, for one thing, I was sure of a five 
 dollar bill from the butcher every Monday 
 morning, and all the others I traded 
 with chipped in a little. Then I made the 
 waiters whack up to me; they got money 
 and they had to divide or would not get 
 anything. Then at Christmas time I got 
 a new suit of clothes, a pair of fine boots 
 and a fine hat and they never cost me a 
 cent; but 1 kicked on the sixty dollars and 
 they got somebody else and I quit and 
 came down here." 
 
 And so the young would-be stewards 
 are cut down like the green grass and the 
 race is in danger of becoming totally 
 extinct. 
 
 THS PERNICIOUS COMMISSION SYSTEM. 
 
 The very fact that these old-school stew- 
 ards and the young fledglings who think 
 they are learning the steward's duties from 
 them, relate these money-making exper- 
 iences with so much gusto, and, indeed, 
 make them their favorite subject of con- 
 versation, shows that they do not consider 
 bribe-taking dishonest. It may be their 
 moral sense is very dull, but if they need 
 
 to justify themselves they can find abund- 
 ant excuse in the prevailing system of per 
 cents and commissions. There is not a 
 thing that must be purchased from a mer- 
 chant but bears two different prices: the 
 list price, or asking price, and the net price. 
 From the material to build the hotel, the 
 furniture, ranges and crockery, to the type 
 to print the bill of fare, everything comes 
 priced at so much, but with five, ten, fifteen 
 or twenty-five per cent, off to the actual 
 purchaser, and if the old -school steward is 
 allowed to be the purchaser there is no 
 possibility of convincing him that he is not 
 entitled to that commission, and, further- 
 more, according to his reasoning, if the 
 distant merchant do so unsolicited the 
 home mei chants must be made to do the 
 same. And the home merchant who wants 
 his trade agrees with him, and, more than 
 that, says to him, "You may as well take 
 the commission; if you don't somebody 
 else will, and if not the house will not get 
 the benefit ; the price will be the same and 
 we shall keep the commission ourselves, 
 as well as our regular profit." 
 
 The writer knew a youthful cook in a 
 large hotel, only a few months ago, who 
 went to the office and asked the proprietor 
 to send for a list of knives and tools for 
 him and take the amount out of his current 
 months wages. The proprietor did so. 
 The bill of goods was in the neighborhood 
 of twenty dollars ; there was the usual dis- 
 count allowed and it amounted to about 
 three dollars and a half. The proprietor, 
 who was a mercantile man himself, charged 
 the cook the full list price and put the pur- 
 chaser's commission in his own pocket. 
 This made the youthful cook and probable 
 future steward so "mad" that he would 
 have discharged the proprietor if he could, 
 but as he could not he tendered his own 
 resignation instead. Yet this is what the 
 old-school stewards think is the right thing 
 to do. Human nature is the same in 
 proprietor as in cook, and when the stew- 
 ard pockets the commissions which he 
 ought to obtain for the house and not him- 
 self, the proprietor may not split logic over
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 9 
 
 it, but he is liable to come to the conclusion 
 that he can get along better without a 
 steward, and if the butcher is making so 
 much profit that he can aSord to give five- 
 dollar bills to his customers, the proprietor 
 will go and receive his share himself. The 
 coming steward will refuse to take these 
 bribes for reasons apart from the question 
 of morality and the correctness of prevail- 
 ing commercial customs, but from another 
 motive, to be dwelt upon further on. 
 
 SOMETHIXG LESS MANLY. 
 
 While these old-time stewards took such 
 extreme pleasure in talking over the de- 
 lights of commissions and per cents, there 
 was another source of profit worked by 
 some of them that was never spoken of. 
 They were generally a rugged and manly 
 set of men, used to controlling others, and 
 perhaps were conscious that there was 
 nothing to be proud of in this sort of 
 brokerage. It was the selling of the situ- 
 ations under them. None can know 
 whether the practice was general or to 
 what extent it prevailed, but it was well 
 known that the situations on some boats 
 could only be obtained by purchase. The 
 stewards kept up communications and 
 knew where every available porter, second 
 steward, stewardess, cook and baker could 
 be found, and if the old hands were not 
 coming back some such trades as this 
 took place. The boat paid a certain price 
 for each employe, the rate being fixed by 
 the stewards themselves, and no man or 
 woman was wanted, or could ever after- 
 wards obtain a situation, who would offer 
 to come and take less. The stewardess 
 (housekeeper) was required to be a respect- 
 able, matronly sort of a woman, one whom 
 the lady passengers could feel at home 
 with; the wages for such was usually forty 
 dollars per month, but she did not secure 
 it all, having to pay part of it to the stew- 
 ard. In the case of a cook the trade would 
 be about like this: 
 
 Steward "This boat pays eighty dollars ; 
 what will you give me for the job will 
 you pay me twenty dollars a month for it?" 
 
 Cook "No, I will pay you ten dollars a 
 month." 
 
 Steward "You can't have it. But you 
 want to work?" 
 
 Cook "Yes, I want to work. 1 ' 
 
 Steward "And my friend up the river 
 writes me that you are a good cook ; now, 
 I like my cook to be a good one if he does 
 not cost me too much I'll split the differ- 
 ence; you shall pay me fifteen dollars a 
 month for the job, pay every trip before 
 you go ashore." 
 
 Cook "All right, I'll do that." 
 
 Steward "Well, pull off your coat and 
 go to work ; I'll go and enter your name 
 on the cashier's book." 
 
 But the cook generally had the privilege 
 of hiring and discharging his kitchen help, 
 and could partly recoup himself by selling 
 the second cook's job in the same way. 
 
 It must be said in their favor, however, 
 that the majority of river stewards thought 
 this a despiceable practice. "Why," cried 
 one of them with intense scorn, "a man 
 aint fit to be a steward that can't beat his 
 hand out of all their money at cards. 
 That's the way I always do, and it is more 
 honorable than grinding them down ; what 
 is the use of making small dickers!" 
 
 A SPECIMEN LETTER. 
 
 The mixedness of the ideas of a stew- 
 ard's duties contained in the following let- 
 ter is easily accounted for when the fact is 
 taken into consideration that there are two 
 different types of stewards now doing busi- 
 ness in the hotels of this country ; one set 
 does and the other does not do as the writer 
 says. After discussing the matter from 
 their different standpoints we will endeavor 
 to draw some definite conclusions and out- 
 line the duties of the coming steward. 
 This letter is from New Hampshire; it is 
 written on paper bearing the imprint 
 "Kearsarge" hotel; it is one of the best 
 specimens of a letter of inquiry of this sort 
 ever received, for the writer has ideas of 
 his own and starts the subject, and the 
 italics, which are his own, intimate very
 
 1U 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 clearly just what points were in dispute. 
 It runs: 
 
 "Having some dispute with friends in 
 regard to the duties of a steward in a first- 
 class house I told them I would leave the 
 matter to you to decide as I knew * * * * 
 I told them that the steward engages all 
 the help for the kitchen, the chef included, 
 also headwaiter (the waiters under the 
 headwaiter may be hired by the head- 
 waiter subject to the steward's approval), 
 and that all the above help are under and 
 subject to the steward's control; that the 
 steward does all the buying of supplies for 
 the table and all kitchen utensils; that the 
 pastry cook or confectioner makes all ices 
 and creams ; that the steward does no carv- 
 ing, as that is done by the cook or his as- 
 sistants; that the steward gets up all bills 
 of fare ; that it is not his duty, or his assist- 
 ants', to carry from the carving room and 
 care for the meats, etc., that may be left 
 after the dinner is over, that duty belong- 
 ing to the cook ; that the steward does no 
 manual labor, but is the head and director 
 of all matters pertaining to kitchen and 
 dining room; that the steward's assistant 
 prepares all meats for cooking, but not the 
 steward personally. 
 
 I have been interested in small hotels, 
 not large enough to employ a steward, and 
 so may be wrong in my statement, and if 
 so will you please give me the correct du- 
 ties of a steward, and oblige, etc." 
 
 THE STEWARD THE SUPERIOR OFFICER. 
 
 The first proposition is only partly right, 
 the steward hires the chef or head cook 
 but not the kitchen help under him ; the 
 steward hires the headwaiter but not the 
 waiters under him; the steward hires the 
 baker, pastry cook and confectioner but 
 not their helpers not by right, but he 
 frequently does in fact as a matter of ac- 
 commodation because he knows where to 
 find them when the cooks themselves do 
 not, and the steward always has the power 
 to discharge any hand for disobedience or 
 misconduct, or to suspend or fine him. 
 
 The steward is the superior officer over 
 
 the head cook, over the headwaiter, over 
 the pastry cook and the rest. He is next 
 to the proprietor. He is responsible for the 
 good or bad table that the house sets, and 
 for the quality of the service. If he does 
 not have the power to hire or discharge 
 the cooks they will work against him and 
 there will be no harmony; they will look 
 to the higher authority, blame the steward 
 for the poor quality, real or alleged, of the 
 supplies furnished to them, and muke of 
 him little more than a market man and 
 messenger, and the headwaiter will take 
 but little notice of the complaints the stew- 
 ard may hear and report to him concern- 
 ing his waiters' conduct, if he knows 
 that the steward has no power except to 
 talk. 
 
 THE STEWARD DEALS ONLY WITH THE 
 HEAD MEN. 
 
 But the head cook has his own favorite 
 second who goes with him year after year, 
 and frequently his roast cook and, broiler 
 and several others whom the steward never 
 exercises his authority over, except when 
 they wilfully transgress his rules, and 
 rarely ever speaks to, for whatever they do 
 wrong or right the head cook is responsible 
 for, and all orders for them to do anything 
 are given to the head cook; the steward 
 will say, "have your man there do this, or 
 "your vegetable cook is not giving good 
 satisfaction, will you look into that mat 
 ter." There may be a hand in the 
 kitchen or bake house whom the steward 
 thinks is exceptionally good, yet, some 
 day the head cook or head baker may dis- 
 charge him or her by writing on a piece of 
 paper, "Steward, please pay off bearer 
 for good cause. John Smith, cJief. Sept. 
 i, 1887." And the steward will not inter- 
 fere, but lets the hand go without a word 
 unless he is ready to dispense with the ser- 
 vices of the chef. The same with the 
 headwaiter. There is not probably a rec- 
 ognized headwaiter in the land, one who 
 is known and capable, who would take 
 charge of a dining room where the side 
 waiters were to be hired by the steward or
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 11 
 
 any one else. He could not exact perfect 
 obedience from his waiters without having 
 the power to dismiss them without appeal. 
 Nevertheless the steward can compel the 
 discharge of a waiter who is direlict in his 
 duty or disobedient. 
 
 THE STEWARD AS BUYER. 
 
 The next proposition does not admit of 
 a straightforward answer. It is: "The 
 steward does all the buying of supplies for 
 the table and all kitchen utensils." Undoubt- 
 edly the coming steward will ; he is wanted 
 for that very purpose, but as a matter of 
 present fact, as the correspondent puts it, he 
 does not, except in a few cases. And the 
 hotels are the worse off because of the de- 
 ficiency of stewards, the buying for a hotel 
 being a trade in itself, not to be picked up 
 or assumed by anybody on short notice, 
 but requiring long practice and varied ex- 
 perienced to become proficient in. The 
 steward's functions in this respect are often 
 assumed now by the proprietor. We read 
 that one or other of the proprietors of the 
 largest of New York hotels goes regularly 
 to market at five in the morning and makes 
 the purchases for the day, numbers of 
 prominent hotel keepers, besides, have 
 been noted as following the same practice. 
 If it be a lack of confidence in stewards in 
 general which has led to their being shorn 
 of their proper authority, it is likely the 
 stewards of past years have themselves to 
 blame. There is very little that is pleasant 
 in a steward's life, he has to be a sort of a 
 policeman, austere, apparently unsym- 
 pathetic, and he cannot permit familiarity, 
 nor afford to be sociable, but most men in 
 the position find a pleasant relaxation 
 in marketing and driving good bargains, 
 and when, in addition to the pleasure of 
 smart trading, the idea of making a little 
 private gain in a seemingly harmless way 
 is entertained, the steward is very liable to 
 give that part of his duties nearly his whole 
 attention, and leave the disciplinary portion 
 inside the house to neglect ;then the proprie- 
 tor volunteers to do some part of that duty 
 
 that his steward may have more time to 
 "stay in and look after the help." 
 
 Yet no volunteer or occasional buyer 
 can leave the office desk, or pantry, or store 
 room and go and buy at once cheaply and 
 intelligently. The experienced steward 
 does not have to memorize a lot of rules to 
 know whether game, fish, poultry or meats 
 are fresh and wholesome or not, he knows 
 at a glance ; he has no chemist's tests about 
 him for determining whether a sample ot 
 butter is genuine or imitation, he knows at 
 once, he is practiced at it. The volunteer 
 buyer, landlord or clerk rushes out and 
 buys what he thinks are bargains because 
 below the retail price, while the practiced 
 steward comes in with the same thing twice 
 as good and bought at half the price. The 
 practiced steward does not buy small po- 
 tatoes, nor small apples, nor stale eggs 
 because they are under price, as the volun- 
 teer buyer does, for he knows they will all 
 waste away in use and cost double in the 
 long run, nor does he buy fruit that will 
 not keep till next day, nor buy anything on 
 a falling market. He knows where small 
 supplies of a scaice article may still be 
 found in the bye-ways of the market and 
 keeps them in view, but does not buy till 
 absolutely compelled, thinking that new 
 offerings and cheaper may arrive at any 
 hour. The volunteer buyer cannot be so 
 systematic, nor can he watch the fluctua- 
 tions of the market in staple groceries and 
 provisions to take advantage of them as 
 the regular steward does. The coming 
 steward will get all these things down 
 finer yet, including fuel and furnishing in 
 his purchases, and he will not sell his inde- 
 pendence and freedom to roam the markets 
 over to any merchant for "a commission." 
 
 THE STEWARD PUTS IN HIS FANCY WORK. 
 
 Next, our correspondent evidently does 
 not say what he means, his question is in- 
 direct, he says: "The pastry cook or con- 
 fectioner makes all ices and creams," he 
 probably means it is not the steward's duty 
 to make them ; right, but probably the com- 
 ing steward will one day make a cream or
 
 12 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 an ice and another day an entree or a soup, 
 whatever else he a n beat the world at, just 
 because he can, and for the credit of his 
 table. Even now there are hotels employ, 
 ing bakers, who are bread bakers only, who 
 cannot make a biscuit, or a common 
 custard or pudding, and pastry cooks who 
 consider creams and ices so exclusively 
 confectioners' work that they never try to 
 make them, and if they are good hands 
 otherwise, the working steward steps in 
 and supplies the deficiencies out of his own 
 superior knowledge. The writer knows 
 of one summer resort, where the number 
 of guests often reaches three hundred, 
 where the creams, ices and fancy sweets of 
 all sorts, except cakes and pies, are made 
 by the proprietor's sister, with plenty of 
 laboring help to assist, the baker having 
 plenty else to do, and it is often said that 
 these "little desserts" are the best things 
 the house has to serve, which illustrates 
 the point that the pastry cook does not al- 
 ways make them, although it certainly is 
 his business. 
 
 ALL STEWARDS CARVE. 
 
 The next proposition: "The steward 
 does no carving, as that is done by the 
 cook or his assistants," is quite wrong. 
 The only point that all sorts of stewards 
 are agreed upon is that it is the steward's 
 duty to carve. The ability to carve is one 
 of the accomplishments of a gentleman. 
 The necessity of the steward's carving is 
 obvious, else how can he know how the 
 meat turns out which he is buying? how 
 can he know how much is taken and how 
 much is left over? how can he know, 
 whether the fault found with the meat in 
 the front of the house is attributable to the 
 cook's negligence or to the meat itself? 
 how can he know what meat goes to the 
 officers' dining room, what to the nurses 
 and children, and what to the help? And 
 if the head cook is to carve who is to dish 
 up the entrees he has made which nobody 
 knows how to dish up right but himself? 
 and who is to watch the run that is made 
 upon this or that dish, or the soup, or fish, 
 
 or salad, or vegetables, and provide more 
 before the last order is gone, if his atten- 
 tion is engrossed at the carving table? The 
 old steamboat stewards always carved the 
 meat, sometimes the captain assisted. The 
 New York City hotel stewards carve, onlv, 
 when the hotel is large, there are two 
 stewards, and the inside steward is the 
 carver, the outside steward has no time for 
 it. The New England stewards, who go 
 South every winter, all carve. A steward 
 of the writer's acquaintance, who grew up 
 in the Niagara Falls hotels and was troubled 
 with obesity, begged off from carving be- 
 cause he suffered from the heat, but he 
 never hinted even that carving was not his 
 proper duty. A certain California steward, 
 who, however, has been every where,where- 
 ever he goes, always assumes the carving as 
 his right, and his skill in dismembering a 
 fowl almost instantaneously is really mar- 
 vellous. A true New York City steward in 
 a large southern hotel used to make his 
 carving time very short and got the head 
 cook totake hold for him, but never denied 
 that it was his business to carve. One of our 
 model New England stewards is now a 
 proprietor of two resort hotels in their re- 
 spective seasons, but still acts as his own 
 steward, and his cJief told the writer, in 
 answer to questions on these very points, 
 that he did his own carving until the house 
 became so full it was scarcelv possible for 
 him to do so, and then the chef found him 
 a carver and he accepted him and released 
 himself. 
 
 ASSISTANT CARVERS. 
 
 The steward, being the chief carver, does 
 not necessarily do all ; in a large hotel there 
 is a row of carvers, from three to six, or 
 more, all at work at once, and there can be 
 no rule about these assistants. They may 
 be both inside and outside stewards, some- 
 times the second cook, for he is often set 
 at liberty while the chef dishes up the en- 
 trees. Sometimes the roast cook or broiler, 
 or the meat cutter. In some hotels one of 
 the clerks is an expert carver and assists, in 
 others it may be a porter who regularly
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 13 
 
 comes in. A very good combination is 
 coffee maker and carver. The coffee man 
 has plenty of employment at breakfast and 
 supper making and serving the coffee, tea, 
 chocolate and hot milk and slicing cold 
 meats, but at dinner these things are un- 
 important and the coffee man finds em- 
 ployment at the carving table instead. 
 
 THE STEWARD AND THE BILL OF FARE. 
 
 Then, says our correspondent: "The 
 steward gets up all the bills of fare." 
 
 The coming steward will, but he will be 
 a true maitre d' hotel^ he will be a scholar, 
 a man of taste and grammar, he will know 
 more than the cook, pastry cook, baker and 
 confectioner, all combined, about dishes 
 and trie modes of preparing them and about 
 literary composition. There are a very few 
 such stewards now, they make the bills of 
 fare, therefore they rule the kitchen and 
 make, or break, the culinary reputation of 
 the hotel. Here is a recent paragraph from 
 the gastronomic items of an eastern paper, 
 that reads right: "Young turkey, split and 
 broiled, is more delicious than spring 
 chicken. It is a dish that is very nicely 
 cooked and served under the supervision 
 of Mr. R. C. Amos, the experienced and 
 judicious steward of the Revere House, 
 whose cuisine is getting to be much talked 
 about and tested." 
 
 That gives us the impression that it is 
 the steward that knows what is good and 
 the cooks are but the hands, while he is 
 the head, that he plans and they execute, all 
 of which is in the natural order of things 
 and as it should be. But a person who sets 
 up to be a steward without training and 
 without study, and who is beholden to the 
 cooks for his culinary information and his 
 terms for the bill of fare, becomes little 
 more than a tool in their hands. If he does 
 not know more than they, he will not have 
 their respect, and he will have no real 
 authority. Cooks generally are not so dis- 
 interested as to work hard when they are 
 just as free to work easy. The chef can 
 make his bill of fare so that it will take the 
 very best endeavors of all his assistants to 
 
 get the dinner ready in time, or he can 
 make it so that there will not be enough 
 work to fill up the hours, for he knows 
 which dishes are tedious and difficult to 
 prepare and which dishes are mere child's 
 play for their easiness, and if left alone is 
 prone to make the easy and commonplace 
 dinners every day; he may use canned 
 goods almost exclusively, because they are 
 ready prepared and makes the inexperi- 
 enced steward his errand boy to go out con- 
 tinually to buy him some more ready-made 
 goods. If a new cook is brought into the 
 kitchen he is likely to find a different set of 
 utensils to work with, from those he was 
 used to in the last place, and if he finds the 
 steward inexperienced and weak he will 
 get him to buy a new outfit for his especial 
 benefit. The cook in such a case may be 
 right, but it is necessary for the steward to 
 know absolutely the merits and faults and 
 the use of all the different utensils that he 
 may be the judge of the needs in the par- 
 ticular department, and discern the differ- 
 ence between a real need and the whim of 
 a cook. The steward who does not know 
 this cannot take the bill-of-fare writing out 
 of the chef's hands without being met with 
 hundreds of objections to his own bill, on 
 the grounds of there being no suitable pot 
 for this, or pan for that, no time to make 
 one dish and no material for another. 
 
 THE STEWARD WHO DOES NOT KNOW. 
 
 On the other hand the cooks would have 
 good cause for complaint against any 
 steward, inexperienced in culinary affairs, 
 who should try to get up the bill of fare. 
 There is a character in Shakespeare's Win- 
 ters Tale very much like some of these un- 
 finished stewards says he: "Three pounds 
 of sugar; five pounds of rice; rice? What 
 will this sister of mine do with rice? But 
 my father hath made her the mistress of 
 the feast and she lays it onl I must have 
 saffron to color the warden pies, (pear pies), 
 mace, dates ; nutmegs seven, a race or two 
 of ginger, (but that I may beg) ; four pounds 
 of prunes, and as many raisins of the sun." 
 
 The cooks are driven wild at times by
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 the immature steward's sublime uncon- 
 ciousness that all these trifles which they 
 ask for are of any sort of consequence, his 
 vague idea that any time in the course of 
 a month will do. "Turnips and carrots? 
 what are turnips and carrots? common and 
 cheap I don't ever eat them, who cares 
 for turnips and carrots?" But the c/iefc&n 
 do next to nothing without them. "Chives, 
 shalots, leeks, thyme, what good are they? 
 Aniseed? What does the baker need ani- 
 seed for, and cream of tartar, and paper 
 and hops and potatoes? I'll try to remem- 
 ber them sometime when I go down town." 
 
 But if the chef cannot get a pound of 
 pork of bacon at the proper time, he will 
 have no larded fillet, nor rice-birds wrapped 
 in bacon, and without hops for yeast the 
 baker will have no bread. It would be use- 
 less for an alleged steward of this sort to 
 try to make bills of fare for the cooks to 
 work up to. But the genuine steward 
 knows what these workers want, even better 
 than they do, things that they forget and 
 forget purposely to avoid work. 
 
 The old palace steamboat stewards made 
 up their own bills of fare without consult- 
 ing the cooks, for they knew what they 
 had in their ice chests when the cooks did 
 not, and they knew what they were going 
 to have for dinner seven days ahead, and 
 the bills of fare they sent to the kitchens 
 to be executed drove many a cook to strong 
 drink. A few hotel stewards are now 
 evidently making up their bills of fare un- 
 aided and according to ther own notions, 
 for their menus are original in their leading 
 features. The ordinary practice now is for 
 the chef and pastry cook each to make out 
 his own part of the bill of fare and either 
 steward or proprietor looks it over, perhaps 
 ^rewrites it, possibly suggests changes, then 
 sends it to the printer, but still that bill is 
 the cook's and not the steward's. So, to 
 come back to the original question : "Does 
 the steward get up all bills of fare?" the 
 answer is yes, when he is a better man 
 than any of the cooks, and the coming 
 steward will be that and higher priced. 
 
 THE STEWARD IS THE OVERSEER FIRST 
 AND LAST. 
 
 The next proposition of our correspond- 
 ent does not admit of a straight yes or no, 
 either. It is: "It is not th< steward's duty 
 or his assistants', to carry from the carving 
 room and care for the meats, etc., that may 
 be left after the dinner is over, that duty 
 belonging to the cook." 
 
 It is the duty of the steward to see that 
 nothing is wasted, however he may secure 
 that end, and there is no part of a steward's 
 duty more important to the proper conduct 
 of a hotel than his duty to stay in the 
 carving room or kitchen until the meal is 
 over. Where a head cook is doing his full 
 duty he is unable to stay there till the end; 
 his labor is of a sort that taxes his powers 
 of endurance, he begins his work early and 
 finds no time for a recess until dinner is 
 over, his own meals in the early part of the 
 day are swallowed in a hasty manner, his 
 mind being on other matters, and he is in 
 no condition to stand at the carving table 
 two hours and then stay till the last watch- 
 ing what may be left over. It is the cook's 
 trade to cook and serve the meals to the 
 waiters, the taking care of the surplus de- 
 volves upon somebody else. The actual 
 carrying and putting away may be done by 
 the second cook or the carver, but the 
 steward is the director of the matter. 
 
 In a paragraph reprinted in a former ar- 
 ticle on this subject relating to a Saratoga 
 hotel it is truly stated that there has to be 
 an exercise of liberality in apportioning the 
 quantities to be cooked, so that if fifty or 
 sixty people extra should arrive there will 
 still be plenty of dinner for them all. But 
 if, on the contrary, the fifty or sixty do not 
 arrive it is palpable that provisions suffi- 
 cient for that many more are left over. 
 There may be no great harm in that if the 
 steward's watchful eye is over all to see 
 that the house is not the loser, fo- such 
 things as chickens and green peas and un- 
 cut roasts of beef are as good as new 
 whether hot or cold for the next meal. 
 But suppose it is the ordinary style of ho- 
 tel where the crowd of waiters come to the
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 15 
 
 carving room for the remainders for their 
 own dinner (instead of being fed before the 
 meal begins) they will "go for" the chicken 
 and green peas and the uncut roast of beef, 
 and the other remainders when they are 
 done will be remainders still. This will be 
 the case if the steward is not present, be- 
 cause the carver and cooks, even the head 
 cook, lack the power to compel the dis- 
 charge of or to fine or suspend a waiter, 
 they have the power only to Quarrel and 
 threaten, be at war with the headwaiter 
 who defends his own men, and disgrace 
 the house. 
 
 The way these rules actually are com- 
 promised and worked out is this; The 
 steward who is carving and the head cook 
 who is dishing up entrees and watching 
 the demand upon his various dishes are 
 both busy enough during the first hour of 
 the meal. About that time the business 
 slacks up, the orders come in slowly; the 
 steward says to the cook, "We are not 
 going to need that whole ham I shall be 
 able to pull through without cutting an- 
 other roast that leg of mutton will not be 
 wanted." Then the cook himself, perhaps, 
 or the carver who will slice the cold meats 
 for the next meal will carry them off to 
 the refrigerator. Later, when the steward 
 learns from the headwaiter that the last of 
 the always-late people are in the dining 
 room and have been served he takes a new- 
 survey. "This whole boiled fish is good for 
 a chowder, a fish soup, a dish of scalloped 
 fish, a dish a la Bechamel, a fish salad, fish 
 cakes or something else, take it away and 
 save it. That baked fish is thin, dry, will 
 be worthless when cold, you need not keep 
 it." If the head cook be still in sight as 
 most likely he will be, although not carv- 
 ing and no longer serving entrees, the 
 steward calls him and asks him if he wants 
 to save anything and he generally does 
 want to save the consomme and if he has 
 any stews or ragouts of his entrees to give 
 away as he generally has and these 
 things being all understood, the carver and 
 vegetable cook may be left to serve out all 
 that remains on the carving stand, and the 
 
 second pastry cook to give away the re- 
 mainders of pudding and perishable sweets. 
 
 THE STEWARD AS A WORKER. 
 
 Next: "The steward does no manual 
 labor, but is the head and director of all 
 matters pertaining to kitchen and dining 
 room." 
 
 In reality the hotel steward who does his 
 full duty is the most hard-working man in 
 the house, if not with his hands then with 
 iis head and feet. But our correspondent 
 was thinking about a steward's personal 
 dignity and his keeping a dressed-up ap- 
 Dearanee, and supposes that a steward 
 never puts on an apron, nor has to do any- 
 thing that will soil his hands. This is all 
 wrong; the steward never does any menial 
 duties, yet he puts on an apron very often. 
 Even as a buyer in bad weather the active, 
 energetic steward, clad in a rubber coat, 
 slouch hat and heavy mud-defying boots, 
 does not much resemble the parlor dude 
 which country hotel boys picture the great 
 bossing steward to be. But that fearlesness 
 of work does not detract from his personal 
 dignity, but rather adds to it. The source 
 of personal dignity is not in the hands, but 
 in the eye ; wealth alone cannot buy it, a 
 fool cannot inspire respect; some rich 
 chuckleheads are called "Old Billy" or 
 
 Old Tommy" on all sides all their lives 
 in spite of their unsoiled clothing. A fifty- 
 dollar steward once objected to the writer 
 against putting on an apron and doing 
 some necessary thing, on the grounds that 
 if he worked his help would not respect 
 him any more and he could not then secure 
 their obedience. He was not a bad man, 
 but there was no mental or moral force in 
 him, he had no personal dignity to spare 
 and had to be very stingy in the use of 
 what little he had ; and this poor man came 
 to a very humiliating end, after all, for he 
 was knocked down by the swill-man and 
 carried out by the police. There was an- 
 other steward of a different make who also 
 took fifty dollars because it was all the 
 situation was worth and the house could 
 not afford to pay more, who filled in his
 
 16 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 time voluntarily as house carpenter, fur- 
 niture repairer, locksmith, anything that 
 might happen to want doing, in fact, bought 
 for the house and cut the meats, and after 
 all put on his good clothes and took a four 
 hours watch as clerk in the office to relieve 
 the proprietor, who was struggling to pay 
 for his house, and the point of it is that 
 whatever else might be forgot or neglected 
 that working steward, when he came to do 
 his carving, never failed to find his snowy 
 apron laid ready, his towel hanging on its 
 peg, his carving knife fresh ground and 
 whetted, and his chair placed for him to 
 rest, while waiting. He had his help in 
 subjection, and had their respect because 
 he was a man of force of character, no 
 matter what he might choose to do. An- 
 other of these working stewards, another 
 one of our New England models, though 
 this one bears a foreign name, was for- 
 merly a steward in the Boston Brunswick, 
 but the writer found him in a much smaller 
 establishment where he was at once the 
 buyer, the store-keeper or receiver, to take 
 in, weigh and book what he had bought, the 
 pantryman, preparing and serving the fresh 
 fruits in good style, the issuer of stores, 
 the writer of the bill of fare, the preparer 
 of the meats for cooking, then the carver 
 and finally the keeper of the keys when all 
 doors where closed. His was not a time 
 of kid-gloved ease and he was well aware 
 of the fact, but then it was only of tem- 
 porary duration. Two different owners of 
 large and fine hotels, hearing where he 
 was, went personally to se him and if 
 possible secure his services, and he went to 
 one of those houses, as soon as he was at 
 liberty, where he again took his position at 
 the head of a full force of hands. Men 
 of this sort wield a power over their subor- 
 dinates greater than the non-workers ever 
 can, because the hands know the steward 
 can always get along without them ; he can 
 take hold and help himself in a pinch. 
 
 THE STEWARD MANAGES THE MEATS. 
 
 Perhaps the remaining proposition dis- 
 closes what our correspondent was really 
 
 driving at in asking the manual labor 
 question, he says: "The steward's assistant 
 prepares all meats for cooking, but not the 
 steward personally." 
 
 This is one of the dividing points be- 
 tween the New England type of steward 
 and the nautical New York type. The 
 former buys the meat, cuts it up (wirh 
 assistance if necessary) hands it over to the 
 cooks, carves it after cooking, does every- 
 thing except the cooking of it; the other 
 does not cut meats, but counts that the 
 cook's duty and has what he calls a butcher 
 cook for that work. 
 
 The coming steward will cut meats, not 
 all actually, but he will supervise the 
 assistants who do, he will put the cut 
 meats away, carry the keys of the refrig- 
 erators, and hand the meats out to be 
 cooked. The modern, improved, system- 
 atized hotel organization is based upon the 
 assumption that everv man is honest when 
 it is to his interest to be so, and temptations 
 and opportunities to be otherwise are re- 
 moved from the employe's as far as possible. 
 One employe* is made to be a check and 
 restraint upon another as far as practicable. 
 The steward buys, the store-keeper receives 
 and gives receipts, he issues and charges. 
 If the cook sends an order for meat, re- 
 ceives it, cuts and trims, cooks, carves and 
 serves it, there is no check upon him ex- 
 cept the uncertain one of the size of his 
 daily bill at the store-room, nobody knows 
 what he has done with the meat. But if 
 the steward, carrying the keys of the re- 
 frigerator himself, cuts up the loins of beef 
 and sends them ready cut to the kitchen, 
 when the tray is sept back for more while 
 the meal is going on, the steward may say: 
 "How have you used the meat I sent you? 
 I sent you fifty porterhouse steaks, fifty 
 tenderloin steaks along with one hundred 
 common steaks, now you send for more 
 choice steaks so early. What have you 
 done with the others? Has your broiler 
 spoiled them in cooking? Have you allowed 
 them to be served to persons not entitled 
 to them? Have you laid them away in 
 reserve to sell to some private favorites?
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 17 
 
 Have you chopped them up for your con- 
 somme instead of waiting and sending for 
 a piece of coarser meat?" Such questions 
 are never actually put in words, but the 
 cook feels that the steward may ask them 
 and the consciousness of restraint makes 
 him watch the broiler and be more atten- 
 tive to the orders as they come. 
 
 As for the dinner meats, the steward 
 will remember that he issued fifty pounds 
 of roast yesterday, and twenty pounds was 
 left over, therefore he issues less to-day, 
 and holds the carver or cook responsible 
 for that which they took charge of after 
 yesterday's dinner. In this way the stew- 
 ard holds the reins of government and 
 hotel work goes on with the same precision 
 as if it were a large factory. The hand 
 labor of cutting up meat for hundreds of 
 people in a large hotel is no small matter, 
 for in some houses it keeps two active 
 hands busy from morning till night. In 
 such cases the steward only directs which 
 meats to use first, and receives and locks 
 up the product of the cutting. Steaks and 
 chops have to be prepared in the greatest 
 amounts. It is merely mechanical work, 
 however, and easily learned. When a 
 young man under the steward's instruction 
 has learned to cut one loin of beef right he 
 has learned how to cut all, if anything un- 
 usual is to be done in the way of boning or 
 trussing the cook will do it himself. Con- 
 sequently, when the hotel has not business 
 enough to require the employment of a 
 meat cutter exclusively, any apt hand 
 about the house may be trained easily into 
 doing the mechanical part of such work, 
 the head work and managing not to lose 
 any meat devolving upon the steward. 
 
 STEWARDS NEEDED EVERYWHERE. 
 
 These replies cover all the points raised 
 by our correspondent except the statement 
 that there are some hotels too small to 
 employ a steward. Strictly speaking there 
 are no such hotels. In every hotel the 
 steward's duties are done after a fashion 
 by somebody, it would be better if they 
 were performed by a working steward who 
 
 would fill up his time as some do by com- 
 bining these with other duties. The proper 
 combination is steward and head cook 
 where there is not work enough to fully 
 employ a steward. A very common com- 
 bination is steward and headwaiter being 
 oftenest the case where girl waiters are 
 employed, perhaps from the fact that where 
 male waiters find such an arrangement in 
 force the smartest one soon sets himself 
 up as headwaiter, and the steward being 
 late or otherwise employed allows it. 
 
 THE STEWARD AND THE LANDLADY. 
 
 The recipe for getting along amicably 
 with the proprietor's wife has hitherto been 
 kept a profound secret; it is now divulged 
 and is alone worth the price of this book. 
 It is this: Make yourself thoroughly 
 master of your business before venturing 
 where the landlady is one of the ruling 
 spirits, after that go in confidently and be 
 patient, 
 
 Proprietor's wives are always prejudiced 
 in advance against the steward before he 
 comes. They fear that their husband's 
 importance is about to be lessened by some- 
 body usurping his authority; the house- 
 keeping instinct in them makes them ap- 
 prehensive that their own prerogatives 
 also are to be interfered with. They believe 
 in advance that the steward is but a fraud 
 and a pretender, and if they can prove him 
 so he must either leave or lead a dog's life, 
 and not a pet dog's either. But women 
 generally worship efficiency. Let the new 
 steward show skill and knowledge superior 
 to her own, let him stand between the 
 tricky traders and herself and husband, and 
 buy better and cheaper, bring the help into 
 a state of discipline, have the meals on 
 time and served promptly, and secure for 
 their house more praise for less outlay than 
 before, and the recalcitrant landlady is soon 
 subjugated and becomes of the opinion that 
 a steward is the most indispensable adjunct 
 to the hotel business and she couldn't keep 
 house without one. 
 
 THE STEWARD AND THE HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 The modern hotel is so far different 
 from the ship and steamer that the steward
 
 18 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 does not hire or discharge the housekeeper 
 here as he does the stewardess there. 
 There are a few exceptions among the 
 largest hotels, the few that are conducted 
 as purely mercantile establishments where 
 the proprietor's family does not reside in 
 the hotel, and one of the two or thre stew- 
 ards employed purchasing steward, inside 
 steward or wine-room steward has ab- 
 solute control over all the employe's outside 
 of the office, but such is not and cannot be 
 the general practice. The hotel house- 
 keeper has a domain of her own. The 
 housekeeper, the lady guests and proprie- 
 tor's wife, who are accustomed to look to 
 her for attentions, and the linen and 
 laundry department are naturally affiliated 
 together, and the steward has no business 
 to intrude. He would need more than a 
 sheriff's posse behind him who would go 
 up stairs to discharge a housekeeper whom 
 the landlady and lady guests liked, only to 
 put another in her place more suitable to 
 himself. In other words, the steward could 
 never exercise his authority over the house- 
 keeper if he were invested with it, without 
 coming in direct conflict with the proprie- 
 tress of the house. 
 
 THE STEWARD AND THE HEADWAITER. 
 
 "Well, thank God! that's over," ex- 
 claimed a head waiter as he closed the din- 
 ing-room doors after breakfast, "oh, but 
 they scorched me, they burnt me up! 
 There is no steward out there. I can't get 
 anything out of that kitchen. My waiters 
 go there, but never come back. The 
 head cook does not know whether he is on 
 his head or his feet, his men are all rattled, 
 and the people tear me to pieces. I would 
 not go through another such season if they 
 would give me the house." 
 
 Thus far we have considered only the 
 principal meal of the day, the dinner, in 
 relation to the steward's duties, but his 
 presence during the progress of the other 
 meals is no less important. Perhaps there 
 is no time when his supervision is felt by 
 all to be so necessary as during breakfast 
 the urgency of this need is what impels 
 
 proprietors themselves to assume part of 
 he out-door duties that the steward may 
 remain in the house; this need is what first 
 suggests the employment of an inside stew- 
 ard when the proprietor cannot assist. A 
 ood steward, a man of force, can get 
 about twice as much work out of a set of 
 .vaiters as they will do spontaneously if 
 :hey are left alone. Although the waiters, 
 as a class, are higher in the scale of respect- 
 ability, there is such a similarity of method 
 jetween the mate of a steamer and his 
 crowd of deck hands filing past on the 
 ang plank carrying goods on board, and 
 the inside steward urging the waiters along 
 during the rush of the meal, that the com- 
 jarision is irresistible. The headwaiter has 
 no business in the kitchen or carving room 
 except to look for his waiters when they 
 et lost, he cannot stay there to see whether 
 they are fooling the time away, or where 
 the fault lies. When they pass beyond the 
 dining room doors they are out of his power 
 and he can only wait till the powers behind 
 the scenes send them in to him again. And 
 iome waiters will "soldier." One of them 
 \\ill see with a side glance some party com- 
 ing in whom he does not want to wait upon 
 and he picks up a dish from a table and 
 darts off as if he had been sent for some- 
 thing, knowing that another waiter will 
 have been detailed to attend that party be- 
 fore he returns, and some old dogs at the 
 business will manage it so that they never 
 have more than one or two orders at a time 
 when they ought to take six or eight. The 
 hotel might hire fifty or a hundred waiters 
 of this sort and still never have enough. 
 It is the business of the steward to see 
 through and frustrate all such tricks, and 
 also to help the waiters along by seeing that 
 they are not kept waiting for supplies at 
 the pantry or fruit room, or bread or toast 
 tables, or by the hot milk being allowed to 
 run out, or by waiting for new supplies of 
 meat from below that ought to be brought 
 up in time, and a hundred other trifles 
 which require forethought, but nobody 
 thinks of but the head man. Then there 
 are serious knots and snarls taking place
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 19 
 
 in the kitchen. Twenty waiters are wait- 
 ing for their multifarious orders at once, 
 they grow vociferous, the more energetic 
 thrust themselves forward and secure their 
 orders far in advance of their turn, while 
 the quieter waiter looses his turn over and 
 over again, and his family of people in the 
 dining room have the mortification of seing 
 people at the next table, who came in later, 
 receive their breakfast promptly, eat it and 
 depart before their own waiter even makes 
 his second appearance. The simple re- 
 straint of the steward's presence at such 
 a time is often sufficient to quell the noise 
 and correct these irregularities, if not, he 
 insists on the taking of regular turns, and 
 assists the cooks to know who comes next. 
 Under such a supervision the meals are 
 served in the least possible time, without 
 it the results are low quarrels and confusion 
 worse confounded, or, at the best, when 
 the business slackens up the kitchen and 
 neighboring departments become a play 
 house. 
 
 THE STEWARD AND HIS ADVERSARIES. 
 
 The headwaiter in some hotels is a ver- 
 itable Warwick the king-maker, he can 
 oust the steward frequently, and cause a 
 change of chef every month. This is cft- 
 enest the case in what are called family 
 hotels. It is necessary to have the head- 
 waiter under the steward's control, to have 
 him hired or discharged by the steward to 
 insure thorough discipline and harmony 
 throughout the house and for the interest 
 of the proprietors themselves, for the ob- 
 vious reason that when the headwaiter 
 knows that the steward, in leaving his 
 situation, will most likely unseat the head- 
 waiter, too, and the new incoming steward 
 will bring his own man, he is likely, from 
 motives of self-interest, to help his steward 
 to satisfy the people instead of pulling him 
 down. The steward in any case has his 
 pleasures of wielding authority fully bal- 
 lanced by the pains of bearing the blame 
 for every untoward happening or defi- 
 ciency in the hotel. The headwaiter, who 
 may not be under the direct control of the 
 
 steward, can make things appear better or 
 worse to the guests, as he chooses, and it 
 is human nature to detract from another's 
 good name rather than build it up, and in 
 depreciating the character of the steward 
 in the guests' estimation, he necessarily 
 injures their estimation of the hotel and its 
 proprietors. 
 
 The peculiarity of his position in this re- 
 gard is this : He is always a man of respect- 
 able appearance, sometimes quite a superior 
 man in this respect, and must be fairly well 
 dressed. His manner is polite and his 
 speech soft; it is his business to be attentive 
 and appear solicitous for the comfort of the 
 guests, and if he chooses he can become 
 on very familiar terms with some of them, 
 particularly with those fond of gossipping 
 about the hotel which they are making 
 their home, and there is no more fruitful 
 subject for gossip than that of the table and 
 the illiberality of those responsible for its 
 furnishing. Encouragement from the head- 
 waiter, such as may be conveyed by a 
 shrug, a significant smile, a little remark 
 that he is "sure the house pays enough to 
 have the best" and he "can't imagine the 
 reason that what comes in is really so unfit 
 to set before first class people," soon leads 
 to the current talk of the house being that 
 the way that hotel is conducted is a dis- 
 grace to the nineteenth century civilization, 
 and the proprietors becoming frightened 
 discharge the steward and chef. Then the 
 harmless-looking headwaiter chuckles in 
 his sleeve and softly says: "Next!" This 
 is not a fanciful supposition. Names and 
 instances could be given. But suppose 
 tne headwaiter is desirous of building up 
 instead of pulling down, how he can 
 smooth over the temporary difficulties, 
 softly excuse this thing being out or that 
 expected delicacy not having arrived in 
 time, call attention to the excellency of this 
 dish, or the novelty of that, and promise 
 something to come next day! 
 
 THE STEWARD AND THE STOREKEEPER. 
 
 Under the modern hotel system the 
 steward does not hire or discharge the
 
 20 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 storekeeper. The storekeeper is a clerk, 
 he represents the proprietor in the stoie- 
 room, he is employed or dismissed from 
 service by the same authority that engages 
 the other clerks. If not ostensibly, he is 
 practically a check upon the steward in the 
 proprietor's interest, and is under the con- 
 trol of the proprietor direct. He receives 
 all goods purchased for the establishment, 
 whether provisions or crockery, or other 
 furnishings, or fuel or ice. He demands 
 an invoice with every purchase from the 
 smallest to the largest. He counts, weighs 
 or measures everything that comes in, 
 compares his tally with the invoice or bill, 
 notes the quality and condition of goods 
 as they come in, marks the discrepancies, 
 if any, then enters the actual weight or 
 number received in his book, lying always 
 ready for the purpose, carries out the 
 amount according to the price per invoice 
 to his cash column and files the invoice 
 or bill away for future use. At the end of 
 each day he foots up the total amount. 
 The hotel has a stated pay day for staple 
 merchandise, usually twice a month, and 
 the dealers on that day send in their bills. 
 The storekeeper takes each bill and com- 
 pares it with his book, and if the amounts 
 in each are the same he attaches his signa- 
 ture and "O. K.," and the dealer then takes 
 it to the cashier in the front office who pays 
 it and files away the receipt. If the amount 
 of the bill presented is not the same as that 
 carried out in the storekeeper's book he 
 turns to the invoice or former bill on file 
 and finds what he wrote upon it when the 
 goods were received, as so many pounds 
 short weight, so many tubs of butter be- 
 low the grade invoiced, fifty per cent, of 
 eggs worthless, so many pieces spoiled, so 
 many pieces broken, etc., and explains that 
 much to the dealer. The storekeeper only 
 records the facts and allows payment for 
 what he actually receives. Any difficulties 
 that arise in consequence are between the 
 dealer and the steward, who must settle 
 them. When the dealer is satisfied his bill 
 as corrected is allowed and he take* it to 
 the cashier to be paid. When transient 
 
 marketing is bought by the steward, the 
 amounts are weighed by the storekeeper, 
 who makes a bill of each lot, signs it, and 
 the farmer or huckster takes it to the cash- 
 ier's desk and receives payment at once. 
 
 THE STEWARD AND HIS STOREROOM. 
 
 The steward is proud of his well-stocked 
 storeroom and spends whatever leisure 
 time he may have in it. In one sort of 
 storeroom, now found in modern-built 
 hotels, the steward spends most of his time 
 while on duty, for from it he can oversee 
 all that is going on. The storekeeper is to 
 all intents and purposes the steward's own 
 clerk, even his private secretary, who saves 
 him a vast amount of care and book-keep- 
 ing. Their relations are precisely that of 
 employer and employe and they are on the 
 most friendly terms, the trifling fact of the 
 storekeeper being an appointee of the front 
 office and in a measure independent of the 
 steward is perhaps seldom thought of by 
 either. 
 
 There are two different patterns of store- 
 room in use and two different methods of 
 issuing stores, just as there are two differ- 
 ent classes of steward. The New England 
 style of storeroom is in the kitchen itself, 
 either built so that a part of it like a shop 
 front opens into the kitchen while the back 
 opens upon the street where the goods are 
 taken in, or the room originally built as a 
 kitchen is partitioned off that part may 
 serve as a storeroom, and here the store- 
 keeper remains all day, serving out goods 
 to the different departments as they are 
 applied for, starch and soap to the laundry, 
 toothpicks, matches and stationary to the 
 office, fruit, cheese, milk and bottled goods 
 to the pantry, lemons and sugar to the bar, 
 and all the various articles except meats 
 needed by the cooks and bakers. He enters 
 all the items in his book and charges them 
 to the various departments, and the rest 
 of his time is taken up in receiving stores, 
 auditing accounts and taking account of 
 stock needed to be ordered and once a 
 month or oftener of the amount of stock 
 on hand. In this storeroom the steward
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 21 
 
 remains airing breakfast and lunch or 
 supper, ana such times as he is not carv- 
 ing, for here he can hear every order that 
 is given and all that goes on in the kitchen, 
 being ready to step out if any difficulty 
 arises or any special rush of business, and 
 while there he writes his letters to mer- 
 chants and supply men, looks over his ac- 
 counts, posts up his books, notes down the 
 orders for supplies suggested by the store- 
 keeper, and keeps count of the changes 
 among the help, filling out a blank for 
 each and handing it in to the cashier. One 
 of our model stewards passes the most of 
 his time that way, there being no local 
 marketing to do in his locality, and nearly 
 all orders for goods having to be sent by 
 mail or telegraph. He has a little box of 
 an office in the corner of the storeroom 
 that is less than four feet from the kitchen 
 table, and all that is ordered at the store- 
 room counter he hears, and sees, if he cares 
 to, where it goes. This may not be per- 
 fectly admirable. Perhaps neither the 
 reader of this nor the writer would like to 
 work under such close surveillance, yet it 
 shows to what a point systematic hotel- 
 keeping has been brought In this instance, 
 fortunately, the ever present steward is an 
 amiable man, and if he sees his workers in 
 their easy moments he also is with them 
 when the crowd is in and he knows how 
 well they earn their money. The defect 
 in this style of storeroom is in its requiring 
 the storekeeper to be always present, and 
 the hotel has to be of a large size to afford 
 one hand for that one duty. The intention 
 under that system is that the cooks shall 
 never have in posession more material than 
 they need immediately, and it is easy for 
 them, for the storekeeper becomes in effect 
 a waiter to hand trifling amounts to them 
 continually. On the other hand the cook 
 can complain that he has no check upon 
 the storekeeper when the order system is 
 dispensed with, for he may draw fifty 
 pounds and the storekeeper hating him 
 may enter in his book seventy-five pounds, 
 and so injure the cook by the apparant 
 extravagance of his bills. By the other 
 
 system the cook sends a written order to 
 the storeroom for material and keeps a 
 duplicate of the order himself, so that in 
 case of an accusation of extravagance, 
 which may loose him his situation and his 
 character, he can appeal to his duplicate 
 orders to see whether he has been mis- 
 represented. The method of ordering and 
 issuing supplies from the other style of 
 storeroom, distant from the kitchen, is 
 fully detailed in another place. The de- 
 fect of that system consists in the propens- 
 ity of the cooks to order too much at once ; 
 having a day's supply on hand and such 
 apparent plenty, they use the material 
 more lavishly than if it is counted to them 
 pound by pound. A competent steward 
 knows how to remedy the defects in either 
 case, and there is not much preference to 
 be given to one style over the other. It 
 will be understood that the written order 
 system can be operated as well in the open 
 storeroom adjoining the kitchen, but, as it 
 is so much easier and quicker to do with- 
 out an order, it rarely or never is. 
 
 THE STEWARD AND THE CARE OF MEATS. 
 
 Take care of the meat, all the rest will 
 take care of itself. It seems most shocking 
 to people in general to waste bread because 
 such has been the teaching oi their child- 
 hood, but where abundance of other things 
 besides bread is in hand, as in our hotels, 
 the expense of meat makes that of most 
 other items seem insignificant by com- 
 parison. 
 
 In order to realize how like the wasting 
 away of meat is to that of a block of ice in 
 the sun it has to be considered that only 
 prime cuts of the carcass are selected in the 
 first place. These, under the latest im- 
 proved system, are subjected to a preserv- . 
 ing process, being dipped in a solution of 
 which the composition is at present a secret, 
 and, whether so treated or not, are dried, 
 chilled and sometimes even frozen in a 
 cold-blast refrigerator, then wrapped in 
 several coverings of paper, packed in hogs- 
 heads and shipped by rail or steamer to all 
 parts of the country, usually reaching the
 
 22 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 destination, which may be a thousand 
 miles away, still in a semi-frozen condition. 
 Still, this meat, when it reaches the hotel 
 meat-cutter's block, is only raw material. 
 There is the bone to be taken out, that is 
 from one-fourth to one-third of its weight 
 gone; there is the outside to be pared off; 
 there is the inevitable loss of weight in 
 cooking; there is the risk of loss through 
 the negligence of cooks ; then the cooking 
 of too great a quantity and having it left 
 over with the chances doubled that what is 
 so left over will not be useful any more, 
 and will be entirely lost. That is all under 
 the most favorable circumstances. 
 
 But the times that try a steward's effi- 
 ciency are the unfavorable times when the 
 meat arrives in bad condition, when the 
 weather suddenly turns warm while the 
 hotel meat house is full of meat, or the 
 number of people to be fed suddenly di- 
 minishes before the stock on hand can be 
 worked off; and other unfavorable times 
 are those in a resort hotel where the 
 weather is most trying and the supplies are 
 irregular, there being at one time two or 
 three carcasses, and barrels of poultry to be 
 taken care of at once, and then nothing 
 fresh for several days. The thorough 
 steward is, however, equal to the task of 
 meeting all these difficulties and makes of 
 them no difficulties at all, when the un- 
 trained and inexperienced man stands help- 
 less, blames the weather and has the whole 
 hotel, the kitchen, carving room and dining 
 room for days in succession full of the 
 sickening odor of tainted meat 
 
 Here is an instance of the employment 
 of steward's common sense which may 
 prove serviceable. A hotel man finding, 
 himself out of employment at the end of a 
 summer season, bought the dining car 
 privilege on a train carrying a very large 
 excursion party out to an interesting part 
 of the country on the newly built railroad. 
 It was the last week in September, oysters 
 in season, but still dear. The man loaded 
 up with oysters, raw, soldered tight in cans, 
 which came by express packed in ice. 
 There was every prospect that the oysters 
 
 would prove the favorite dish with the 
 excursionists and he would soon sell out 
 his stock, and such might have been the 
 case had the weather remained cool, but it 
 changed to summer heat again and oysters 
 were not in demand, and, next, the train 
 ran into a lot of game, which interested 
 the passengers and kept them feasting until 
 their return home. The hotel man's cases 
 of oysters remained on hand, still in ice, 
 but highly perishable stock. A man less 
 accustomed to the care of provisions might 
 have sold a few of them to the restaurants 
 at a greatly reduced price and have lost the 
 rest, but our steward packed the cans in an 
 ice chest in a layer of broken ice and salt, 
 more ice and salt on top, more cans on 
 that and more of the freezing mixture on 
 top of them, and the oysters were half 
 frozen in the cans and could have been 
 kept for weeks, but as the spell of warm 
 weather had prevented the dealers from 
 ordering any for a few days, the steward's 
 frozen stock was all there was in town and 
 he retailed them out at a good profit. An- 
 other example: A new steward went to a 
 citv hotel in the trying time of midsummer 
 and found that tainted meat served at table 
 was the rule rather than the exception, and 
 the waste of meat which became totally 
 unfit for use with amazing rapidity was 
 enormous. He took the meat out of the 
 refrigerator, where they were keeping it, 
 altogether. He had a long discarded ice 
 chest cleaned out and a draining rack of 
 cross pieces laid in the bottom. He placed 
 his loins and wasts of beef and quarters of 
 mutton on that. He bought sheets of light 
 canvas and laid one clean washed on top 
 of the meat, and on the canvas he spread 
 plenty of ice. On the ice again he placed 
 his smaller meats, lambs, poultry, tongues, 
 sweatbreads, covering them with a sheet 
 of canvas, and that again with ice and closed 
 it down. Every second day he unloaded 
 the ice chest, placed the newly killed meats 
 at the bottom, to remain there' and season 
 and become tender, and the old stock on 
 top to be used next, and refilled the box 
 with ice and occasionally had the canvas
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 23 
 
 sheets washed and bleached. This going 
 back to the old fashioned ice chest looked 
 like retrogression, for the upright refrig- 
 erator, where meat may hang up and keep 
 dry in a cold atmosphere, is the later im- 
 provement, but the requirements of differ- 
 ent places are different and it all defends 
 upon hc~v the refrigerator is used, whether 
 it is the best preserver of meat or not. In 
 this case there was no more loss from 
 spoiled meat ; there was scarcely another 
 pound thrown away that summer. Meat 
 kept in ice is wet and in danger of becom- 
 ing soaked and divested of some of its 
 juices and fine flavor, but when the other 
 alternative is a hot weather taint and the 
 greenness of incipient decomposition, the 
 ice box method is infinitely preferable. 
 
 One more instance of very recent oc- 
 currence may prove instructive: A large 
 new hotel was finished up and furnished 
 with great liberality, as regarded the ex- 
 pense, the desire on the part of the owners 
 being to have everything right, the cost of 
 it being only a secondary consideration. 
 The refrigerator meat house was therefore 
 built of large capacity. The upper part 
 would hold a car load of ice at once, the 
 lower or meat room was a good sized 
 butcher's shop, large enough both for stor- 
 age of a good lot of meat, and for barrels and 
 boxes besides, and still had room left for 
 men to work in. Yet, when the trying 
 time of blazing hot days and sultry nights 
 came the refrigerator utterly failed of its 
 purpose and the meats spoiled in it with 
 frightful rapidity, the choicest and costliest 
 imported roasts and loins having to be 
 thrown away by the hundreds of pounds 
 at a time. This was largely owing to the 
 incapacity of the cook, but the immediate 
 cause was the too frequent opening of the 
 refrigerator both at top and bottom, the 
 general arrangements being insufficient for 
 the needs of the house, and the one large 
 receptacle being made a place of half-hourly 
 traffic. Hot air was admitted every time 
 the door was opened and the ice sometimes 
 was diminished to a small quantity, hence 
 the meat spoiled quicker than if it had 
 
 never been chilled at all. The remedy 
 applied in this case was the removal of 
 everything but the fresh meats and, there 
 being no other ice house, the providing of 
 a pile of blocks of ice buried in sawdust 
 outside, to be drawn from for every other 
 purpose, and the refrigirator was then kept 
 strictly closed spite of all excuses and 
 reasons to the contrary, and then it proved 
 effective for its purpose. 
 
 The steward who has meats to manage 
 that are not select and not shipped in to 
 him ready trimmed avoids loss by attend- 
 ing to the selection at once as soon as it 
 arrives. He has the shanks, flanks, necks 
 and breasts cut off and consigned while 
 fresh and untainted to the soup boiler, to 
 the salt beef barrel, to stews and meat pies, 
 holding back live poultry and things that 
 will keep till these perishable goods are 
 used up, and packs away the choice cuts 
 in refrigerators or ice boxes in which there 
 is plenty of room and of ice through the 
 roughness having been first disposed of. 
 
 The other possible sources of loss of 
 meat, which the steward has to watch, are 
 the great stock boiler, the cook's roaring 
 fire, the gaping swill barrel and the surrep- 
 titious back door basket. Of these the 
 stock boiler is the most ravenous and con- 
 sumes the house's substance with the most 
 harmless and innocent expression of coun- 
 tenance and the most plausible excuses 
 and the promise to give it all back, which 
 it seldom does. The roaring fire may be 
 satisfied to take tainted or dirty meat, the 
 swill barrel will be content with cold 
 cooked joints, but the hungry stock boiler 
 will consume a hundred pounds of the 
 freshest meat and relieve the cook of all 
 trouble of working it up, and then return 
 nothing but a consomme which nobodv 
 cares for, and which will be rejected even 
 in the officers' dining room where it is that 
 or none. 
 
 THE STEWARD AND HIS MANAGEMENT 
 OF HELP. 
 
 A new steward cannot get along with 
 old help. Such is the rule. The old hands
 
 24 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 all think they know more than he possibly 
 can know, they do not want to do new 
 ways, they feel disposed to tell him, he be- 
 ing a stranger, how they do and how he 
 ought to do, instead of looking to him for 
 direction. When the old hands are good 
 and worth keeping the proper way to do is 
 to call them up, one at a time, offer to pay 
 them off and turn them over to the new 
 steward, for him to hire them over again 
 if he wants them and if they want to re- 
 main. It may be productive of temporary 
 inconvenience to have any of them leave, 
 but it is far better in the long run, for it is 
 a formal investment of the new officer with 
 his proper authority, without which he can 
 not run the back part of the-house accord- 
 ing to his best ability. When a head cook 
 leaves his second expects to leave, too, or 
 be discharged; only a few exceptional men 
 in that position ever remain without the 
 formality, at least, of being paid off and be- 
 ginning anew under the new head cook. 
 So in the case of a new steward ; the head 
 cook and headwaiter expect that their situ- 
 ations will be wanted for new men of the 
 steward's own, and if they are expected to 
 remain it is best to go through the same 
 formality with them and let them all begin 
 anev. In most cases where a new steward 
 comes in it is to be inferred that either 
 there was no steward employed there be- 
 fore, or else there has been laxity of ad- 
 ministration or corruption or misdoing 
 which has led to the change being made. 
 Then it is most desirable all around that 
 "a clean sweep" should be made. Let the 
 really good hands come back after a time 
 and be hired over again. This rule is good 
 and even necessary, as has been observed 
 already in the case of the headwaiter, for 
 if each hand's place depends upon the dur- 
 ation in office of the steward, each one will 
 be more likely to uphold him and his rules 
 than to oppose him. 
 
 As a measure of defense when he is but 
 one against so many, the steward keeps 
 other hands in view continually. Perhaps 
 he finds it convenient to keep in communi- 
 cation with an employment agency, more 
 
 especially for the finding of the commoner 
 sort of help, who are alway changing their 
 situations. 
 
 He does not seek to be popular with his 
 help. It is not good business policy for the 
 steward, or head cook either, to let the help 
 praise them too much. The head cook is 
 a little less bound, he may let his men have 
 a half day off by turns, considering that 
 they have no Sunday, but the steward can 
 not afford to make any such concessions 
 of his own accord. The least familiarity 
 leads the help to ask favors in food or holi- 
 days, or drawing pay out of pay times, and 
 if the steward yields in any case his power 
 is broken. 
 
 He decides according to the kind and 
 style of hotel whether the waiters shall 
 have their meals in their special dining 
 room before the guests' meal time arrives, 
 or whether they shall eat after the meals 
 are over, he also fixes the time for meals 
 for all the other hands, then posts up the 
 rules and the notice with them that they 
 will loose their meals if they do not come 
 within half an hour of the time specified. 
 The steward, after consulting the cook, 
 fills out a printed blank bill of fare each 
 day for the officers' dining room, which 
 takes in at hs several tables the clerks, 
 housekeeper, linen keeper, engineers, car- 
 penter, barkeepers and various others. If 
 there are two soups, this bill of fare has one 
 allotted to it, fish, perhaps, and one or two 
 kinds of meat, and in all about half the 
 variety which goes to the guests, and all 
 expensive extras are omitted. A similar 
 selected bill of fare is allotted to the nurses 
 and children's ordinary. As regards the 
 discharge of the hands under the head cook 
 and headwaiter, the steward who sees they 
 are idle, inefficient, or not longer needed 
 requests the head cook or headwaiter re- 
 spectively to dismiss them, and it is ex- 
 pected that they will at once comply with 
 the request since it is but a matter of cour- 
 tesy to them. But for all flagrant offences 
 such as drunkenness, using profane , and 
 obscene language, gambling within the 
 house, insulting females, insolence to
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 25 
 
 guests and patrons of the house and the 
 like, the steward instantly discharges any 
 hand without ceremony. Fines are im- 
 posed in some cases for minor delinquen- 
 cies and under some circumstances the 
 direlict hands are suspended from employ- 
 ment and thrown upon their own expenses 
 temporarily. 
 
 It is the steward's duty to ask of every 
 strange face that appears is his depart- 
 ments why it is there, to watch that no 
 idlers are admitted and to be sure that 
 every hand hired is at once entered in his 
 book ; name, for what purpose employed, 
 wages, date. A copy of this memorandum 
 he transfers to a printed blank and hands 
 it in to the cashier. When a hand is to be 
 paid off, he fills out another printed blank, 
 with date, name, time due that is, not days, 
 but such a part of a month at so much per 
 month occupation, or what class of service 
 the money is paid for, signs it as steward 
 and sends the hand with it to the cashier's 
 desk to be paid. 
 
 THE STEWARD AND THE HANDS' PAY DAY. 
 
 All rules are off where there is no re- 
 gular pay day. The hotel that is in debt 
 to the help is in a bad way; they break 
 away from the restraints of dicipline, work 
 but to suit themselves and always have it 
 in mind to say : "If I don't suit you pay 
 me off!" and in such a house the steward 
 has no business. 
 
 The good hotel rule is to have a set dav 
 each month when the wages due is handed 
 to each and every employe of the house in 
 a sealed envelope, superscribed with the 
 individual's name and the amount of the 
 contents. Most hotels pay on the tenth 
 of the month, paying up to the first and 
 holding back ten days' pay until the hand 
 leaves finally and then the ten days reserve 
 is paid. Some proprietors choose the fifth 
 for pay day, keeping back only five days' 
 pay; a few choose the fifteenth, keeping 
 back half a month. Some of the largest 
 hotels, however, have two pay days each 
 month, as the thii d and seventeenth, or fifth 
 and twentieth. For several reasons the tenth 
 
 of the month is the best day, and the ten 
 days' pay always retained till the hand 
 leaves is sufficient restraint. Were the 
 employe's paid up in full they would fre- 
 quently leave the hotel without a word of 
 notice. If paid on the fifth they frequently 
 sacrifice the five days pay due them in order 
 to get away without giving notice, or find- 
 ing a substitute to take their place. When 
 finally paid off by the steward the ten days' 
 reserved pay very frequently is all they 
 have saved to live upon until they find 
 new employment, and its retention until 
 such a time is a real benefit to them. 
 
 On the morning of the pay day, or on 
 the day before in a large hotel, the steward 
 looks over his time book, notes time lost 
 by absence, by sickness, fines, money drawn 
 (which can only be drawn through another 
 blank filled out by the steward), and any 
 other remark ; sets down the amount due 
 against each name, with particulars, and 
 hands the list to the cashier, who compares 
 and corrects his own books accordingly, 
 and at a convenient time the help are 
 ordered to go to the cashier's window all 
 at once and .are paid, the steward standing 
 by to identify each one if necessary. In 
 the smaller hotels, however, the steward 
 or a clerk goes around and hands the en. 
 velopes to the owners without their having 
 to leave their work. 
 
 THE STEWARD AND THE CLERKS. 
 
 The steward, having to count the cost of 
 meals, cannot make up his estimates, nor 
 complete his accounts, without a daily house 
 count from the office made up as is fully 
 detailed in this book in another place. He 
 therefore applies to the clerks for such 
 house count, not as a favor, but as his right 
 and their duty. Usually the night clerk 
 makes the count before breakfast, if he fails 
 the steward applies to the chief clerk to 
 have the remissness corrected. It is the 
 duty of the chief clerk or the proprietor, as 
 the case may be, to notify the steward oi 
 the expected arrival of any unusual num- 
 ber of people to be entertained that he may- 
 provide accordingly, and in like manner to
 
 26 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 warn him of the departures that he may 
 reduce his kitchen estimates in proportion. 
 
 THE STEWARD AND THE PROPRIETOR. 
 
 "And what shall / be doing all this 
 time!" some proprietor will ask, who has 
 read thus far. Well, there was once a very 
 handsome and popular hotel proprietor, 
 whom the writer knew, sitting on the 
 piazza among his guests and one of them 
 asked him about something in the back of 
 the house and why he had it so. "Well, 
 sir," said the proprietor, "I have a steward, 
 an excellent man, and very capable, to 
 attend to all those matters, and I think I 
 build up my business better and make more 
 money by remaining in front and looking 
 after the comfort and pleasures of my 
 guests, than I could by hiding myself away 
 in the interior and leaving you all to the 
 small share of attention you would get 
 from the over-worked clerks. Whatever 
 is worth doing is worth doing well. I give 
 my steward entire charge of the inside of 
 the house and do not interfere with him, 
 and I take entire charge of the front my- 
 self." There was nothing very striking in 
 this reply, but it outlines the- chief duty of 
 the proprietor to himself as he understood 
 it. Very few men are adapted by nature 
 to be at once a genial host in the front and 
 an austere disciplinarian inside the house. 
 At present, it is true, a great number of 
 proprietors are performing the more re- 
 sponsible part of the steward's duties, be- 
 cause they have no steward, and the head 
 cook is trying to do the rest. The effect 
 will be when every hotel has its real stew- 
 ard in his proper place that there will be 
 fewer managers, assisstant managers, clerks 
 and men of mixed duties, there will be more 
 cooks and fewer chefs. 
 
 The relation of the hotel steward to the 
 landlord is the same now as the land stew- 
 ard of scriptural days >\ as to the land owner ; 
 he gives an account of his stewardship. 
 
 Under the modern hotel system the 
 steward comes to the proprietor's private 
 office with his books or transcripts of them 
 In hand and shows what it is costing per 
 
 meal and per day to run the house in its 
 
 present style. His accounts, properly kept, 
 
 show at a glance: 
 
 How many people were in the hous*: to-day. 
 
 How many meals where served. 
 
 How much value of material the meat 
 
 cook used. 
 
 How much the pastry cook used. 
 How much the pantry man or woman used. 
 How much the head laundress used. 
 How much the office force used. 
 How much the barkeeper used. 
 How much these amounts are above or 
 
 below the average. 
 
 How much per meal it cost for all hands. 
 How much it cost for the guests. 
 Cash value of stock in store room this 
 
 night. 
 
 THE INSIDE STEWARD'S SPECIAL DUTIES. 
 
 Where there is too much work for one 
 steward two are employed. The purchas- 
 ing steward not having time to remain in 
 the kitchen and carving room during the 
 two or three hours of each meal the inside 
 steward steps in. The duties are not differ- 
 ent from what has been already detailed, 
 but they are divided between two and the 
 inside is the second, if one must rank the 
 other, the purchasing steward having 
 charge of the accounts and the cost per 
 meal and per day of running the house, 
 while the inside steward has immediate 
 control of the kitchen and dining room. 
 The special need of an inside steward is 
 most apparent when a hotel has a number 
 of private dinners, suppers and banquets to 
 get up as a part of the regular business. 
 Then the inside steward is the one to be con- 
 sulted upon the subject of the menu for each 
 occasion. He is required to be acquainted 
 with all dishes, wines and the etiquette of 
 the table. He decides the choice of viands, 
 knowing which are in season and which 
 are most suitable for the time, due regard 
 being had to the amount of money the 
 purchaser wishes to spend. The inside 
 steward is more than a headwaiter and 
 supersedes him in many cases, for the in- 
 side steward enters the dining room and
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 27 
 
 has the private dinners served under his 
 own supervision and management. 
 
 THE WINE-ROOM STEWARD'S SPECIAL 
 DUTIES. 
 
 Wine stewards are employed in hotels 
 where a large bar and banquet business is 
 done. It is the duty of this steward to have 
 his store-room open, very much like the 
 kitchen store-room, during meal times 
 and be ready to hand out the bottled wines, 
 liquors, ales, mineral waters, etc., to the 
 waiters, according to the orders written on 
 the cards and signed by the headwaiter, 
 which they bring to him. He buys wines, 
 etc., for the house by the barrel and bottles 
 them ; perhaps rectifies, mixes, compounds, 
 bottles and labels various spirits and cor- 
 dials. He issues supplies to the bar and 
 books the amounts the same as the store- 
 keeper issues material to the kitchen, and 
 he issues to the store-room supplies of 
 liquors to be used in cooking, and wines 
 and beer allowed to the cooks for their 
 meals, where such is the rule, and charges 
 the same to kitchen store-room like any 
 outside merchant. He also has charge of 
 the cigars and tobacco for the bar. He 
 mixes and sends up from his cellars ready 
 for use the champagne cups, claret cups, 
 punches and the like required for the priv- 
 ate parties taking place in the house, and 
 sends the bill of the amount at once to the 
 cashier to be charged in the guests' bills. 
 
 THE STEWARD AND THE DAIRY. 
 
 The steward having in charge the fur- 
 nishing of the table is responsible for the 
 quality of the milk and for the furnishing 
 of cream for the coffee, oatmeal and berries, 
 etc., holding somebody .else responsible to 
 him. It is good for the hotel, its table and 
 reputation when it has a regular dairy de- 
 partment in connection with the proper 
 conveniences and a dairy woman to attend 
 to it Where such is not the pleasant state 
 of affairs the steward establishes rules of 
 management of the daily supply of milk 
 furnished to the hotel to such effect that 
 the cream from it will be secured for the 
 coffee, making the purchase of cream so 
 much the lighter expense, and allowing 
 
 only the skimmed milk to be used for culi- 
 nary purposes. Generally some hand can 
 be found among those already employed 
 who has a special aptitude for taking care 
 of the milk. Sometimes it is the pantry 
 girl, sometimes the coffee maker or the 
 storekeeper. 
 
 THE STEWARD AND THE DISH-ROOM. 
 
 The steward is directly responsible (hold- 
 ing somebody else responsible to himself) 
 for the appearance of the crockery and 
 glassware as it goes to table. The dishes, 
 cups and saucers and all the rest must be 
 bright and spotless, not showing marks of 
 being smeared over with a wet and much 
 used towel, but shining with the polish left 
 by clear and very hot water, the glassware 
 the same. The cream pitchers and water 
 pitchers need special watching that the 
 inside be well cleansed. The steward also 
 watches the dishes as they pass him com- 
 ing from the kitchen to see that there are 
 no thumb marks and spatterings of gravy 
 on the edges. 
 
 He has to see that the dishes after wash- 
 ing are covered up and effectively secured 
 from flies and dust. 
 
 He is responsible also for the dishes 
 being kept warm, in a dish-heater or other- 
 wise, and makes rules against the waiters 
 and others destroying dishes by placing 
 them to get hot upon the range. 
 
 Accordingly he has shelves, closets, 
 draining racks, warm closets, dry towels, 
 mosquito net coverings, and all such ap- 
 pliances made in the manner best adapted 
 to the particular circumstances of his house. 
 
 The dishwashers, pantry woman, scrub- 
 bers, ice man and yard man are directly 
 under the steward's control, to hire and dis- 
 charge them without reference to any 
 heads of departments whatever. The 
 better the hands he can secure in these 
 menial situations the lighter will be his 
 cares. 
 
 THE STEWARD AND HIS WORKSHOPS. 
 
 The basement story of some large hotels 
 resembles a small factory where^ach trades- 
 man is doing his part towards the comple-
 
 28 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 tion of some immense work, and a great 
 number of trades it takes to keep up and 
 supply the needs of a large hotel. In one 
 of these rooms is a soap maker and assist- 
 ants, and the necessary tanks, boilers, 
 presses and drying room, all furnished 
 with steam heat. The soap maker not only 
 makes the common sorts for the laundry 
 and for the floor scrubbers to use, but 
 makes fancy toilet soap for the guests' 
 ropms, the name of the hotel stamped on 
 each cake. In another room the hotel con- 
 fectioner superintends the making of the 
 jellies and preserves for the house, there 
 being one or two assistants employed in 
 these operations, and at other times in the 
 same room the pickles, catsups, chow-chow 
 and sweet pickles are made, and there is 
 an occasional canning and bottling of fruits 
 and vegetables from the hotel farm, when 
 the ripening season is on. Further on the 
 furniture repairer is at work with cabinet 
 makers' tools and glue, and a turning lathe 
 and scroll saw are in motion close by ; then 
 there is the blacksmith's shop adjoining the 
 engine room, then the great engine that, 
 perhaps, operates the elevator, keeps the 
 laundry machinery in motion and whirls 
 the ice-cream freezers, and another engine 
 for the electric light. The meat-cutting 
 room is very likely to be found in this base- 
 ment story, and the oven where the loaf 
 bread is baked, the pastry oven having to 
 be upstairs and near the dining room as 
 the kitchen is, for convenience of service. 
 All of these are under the control of the pur- 
 chasing steward except the engineers, and 
 he must purchase fuel also for them. The 
 fruit and sugar for the confectioner, the 
 materials for the cabinet maker and for the 
 soap maker, and whatever other trades 
 may be there are all, in these largest estab- 
 lishments, purchased by the steward, and 
 the hands are accountable to him for their 
 time and quality of workmanship, the same 
 as in the eating and drinking departments 
 above. 
 
 Thus it is seen the steward, whether he 
 be the man-of-all-work in the smallest ho- 
 tels, or whether multiplied into three or 
 
 four of one name in the largest, is the real 
 operative hotel keeper. And yet some 
 hotels have no steward! 
 
 WHEN THE STEWARD'S GOOD TIME COMES. 
 
 Compare the actual duties of the thor- 
 ough hotel steward, as they have been de- 
 tailed, with the ideas of those who think 
 they will, as stewards only have to go to 
 market, buy something and make their 
 own little "per cent.", walk around the 
 house a time or two and then sit down in a 
 shady corner and doze the happy hours 
 away, and the discrepancy between fact 
 and fancy will be found so great as almost 
 to take away the hope that truly efficient 
 stewards ever can be made out of such poor 
 material as usually offers. Nor does there 
 seem to be much encouragement for more 
 capable men to undertake duties so arduous, 
 unless they will look further into it and 
 behold the perfected hotel and its system 
 of working departments running with the 
 smoothness and certainty of a great factory, 
 wheel within wheel, and he himself the 
 directing head of all. A man cannot be 
 steward of a hotel and give it a divided 
 attention it takes up all his thoughts. He 
 cannot be steward and take an interest in 
 politics, nor write a book, nor a play, nor 
 carry on a business of his cwn down town. 
 Stewarding is of all things a thoughtful 
 occupation. Every individual that meets 
 the steward in the hotel wants something 
 something to be purchased, to be re- 
 membered, to be tried for and not secured, 
 and tried for in another quarter. Every 
 individual the steward meets has to be an 
 object of his mental inquiry, has to be 
 thought over in regard to duties and con- 
 duct. Every hour of the day has its special 
 claim upon the thoughts of the steward, 
 from market hours to meal hours, train 
 times, mail times and appointments. Every 
 individual in the house blames the steward 
 for something, either openly or covertly, 
 from the scullions, who complain that the 
 steward's soap will not cleanse anything, 
 that his matches will not light and his stove 
 wood is wet and will not make a fire,
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 29 
 
 through all the departments of fault-finders 
 to the dyspectic guest in the distant room, 
 who blames him for the butter or syrup or 
 meat or bread not being to her liking, or 
 for the failure to find a special something 
 in market that was not there to find. 
 
 Yet, spite of all this, a man who can 
 govern himself and therefore can govern 
 others, may have a moderately easy time 
 as steward of a good hotel. He may be 
 like that one of our model stewards men- 
 tioned, as sitting in his office in the corner 
 of the store-room within four feet of the 
 kitchen table. He has telephone connec- 
 tions in his office and speaking tubes to the 
 different departments. His storekeeper is 
 an able second to him and needs no watch- 
 ing. His head cook is thoroughly efficient 
 and reliable, can govern his kitchen and 
 needs no watching, his pastry cook the 
 same. The headwaiter is one of the best, 
 is on the most friendly terms with the 
 steward and cooks, and hib well-trained 
 waiters are assiduous in their efforts to 
 please the guests and are free from all the 
 faults which some waiters need watching 
 for. The house is prosperous, the business 
 is steady, each one employed does his or 
 her part; there is no noise, no quarelling, 
 no friction anywhere* 
 
 This , is the easy condition reached 
 through the firm enforcement of rules and 
 the steady weeding out of poor help and 
 replacement with better, and the encourage- 
 ment of well-doing by trifling promotions 
 and judiciously bestowed words of praise. 
 Then the steward takes his hour or two of 
 recreation in the evening without the fear 
 of a strike among the waiters, or of a 
 desertion of cooks, .or unmade fires and 
 late meals to wear him out in the morning, 
 and his thoughts run out to the pleasanter 
 prospect of securing the first strawberries 
 of the season or a new variety of fish for 
 his next menu, and occasionally he finds 
 time to bestow a pitying thought upon any 
 man, who has not yet found out that the 
 hotel he stewards for and his table are the 
 best in the world. 
 
 WHO SHALL BE STEWARDS? 
 
 Every hotel being in want of a real 
 steward, and only a small number being at 
 present supplied with such, it is evident 
 that, when the stewards do come to their 
 own again, they will crowd out some- 
 body that is now standing in their shoes. 
 They will crowd out the "assistant man- 
 ager." There is no such a thing as an 
 assistant manager, the man so called is 
 occupying the steward's place without do- 
 ing the steward's hardest work. They 
 will crowd down the present crop of chefs 
 and make head cooks of them. There is 
 no such word as chef in the English lan- 
 guage, nor in American-English. When a 
 head cook becomes such an object of re- 
 spect that he must be named in italic print 
 and made conspicuous in that way all over 
 a newspaper page, it shows that he is more 
 than head cook, he is a grade above, and 
 that grade in English is steward ; in French 
 also, it is steward, the French chef is, equiv- 
 alent to American steward. The French 
 cook is le cuisinier. The French chef-de- 
 cuisini is the chief of kitchen, he is more 
 than cuisinier, he is the managing, meat- 
 cutting, carving, bill -of -fare writing, wine 
 serving, kitchen-governing man, known to 
 the American hotel system as steward. 
 The French chef of to-day is the same as 
 the maitre d' hotel of a .century ago. 
 Maitre cT hotel is literally master of the 
 house; every French nobleman's house 
 used to be called hotel, his steward was his 
 maitre d' hotel. We are accustomed to 
 reading in English of Ude, Vatel, Marin, 
 Bechamel, and others being cook to such 
 a king or prince, but the French reading is 
 not cook, but maitre d 1 hotel, steward 
 something higher than cuisinier the same 
 thing, in fact, as our working and govern- 
 ing stewards, who can invent dishes and 
 show others how, if need be. The old 
 term maitre d^ hotel seems to have dropped 
 out of use, the French now have only chefs 
 chiefs of the kitchen, with all that it im- 
 plies. Jules Gouffe was called, and called 
 himself, chef to the Paris jockey club, but
 
 THE STEWARDS HANDBOOK. 
 
 he was far more than a cuisinier he was 
 wine steward and an authority on wines ; 
 he was an authority on confectionery, 
 canning and preserving, and on meat cook- 
 ing as well. That is the sort of man he 
 understood a ckefto be the same as a most 
 accomplished working steward is with us. 
 Are the head cooks of the generality of 
 hotels that sort of men? If not, why call 
 them chefs in italic conspicuousness ? If 
 there are some such why not apply the 
 English word and call them stewards? 
 C/iefis generally thought to mean cook. 
 Steward is a title of higher rank, and 
 those who deserve it ought to wear it. 
 
 PROMOTE THE GOOD COOKS. 
 
 There is no school wherein a young man 
 can learn thoroughly the masterful duties 
 of the hotel steward but the live hotel itself. 
 There are three departments in which the 
 business may be learned. From waiter to 
 headwaiter and then steward may do very 
 well. From storekeeper to steward is 
 better. From head cook to steward is best, 
 and is in the natural course of promotion. 
 
 A superior class of young men have 
 come into the hotel cooks' ranks of late 
 years. They are no longer the corner 
 loafers and drunken castaways, the ignor- 
 ant, profane and obscene outcasts, .who 
 secure the good places in the hotels. Many 
 of the cooks, who write to hotel papers, now 
 write good business hands and can indite 
 a good letter, they give evidence of having 
 received a good common school education 
 in most cases, in some instances they ex- 
 hibit much more than that These are 
 adapted to become stewards. They have 
 been attracted to the hotel cook's occupa- 
 tion by the liberal scale of wages offered 
 for efficient men in that line, and they find, 
 on trial, that the hotel cook is not a servant, 
 but a master mechanic who has a chance 
 of next becoming a superintendent or stew- 
 ard. Some among these are total abstainers 
 from strong drink, or else have control 
 over themselves to resist excess. They 
 are readers, and quick to detect ridiculous 
 blunders in a bill of fare. Some of them 
 cherish that principle of free citizenship 
 
 which makes them scorn to sell their vote 
 for a bribe, and the same principle will 
 prevent their selling their independence 
 to any trader for a bribe. They know the 
 best article in market when they see it, 
 and they want it wherever it can be found, 
 and they wear nobody's collar and buy no- 
 body's stale merchandise. These are the 
 coming stewards. There is no other train- 
 ing so good to make stewards as the cook's 
 training. A man who can govern the 
 kitchen can govern all the rest of the 
 interior, and the man who as head cook 
 has had experiencfe of all kinds of provi- 
 sions and has practiced writing the bill of 
 fare, is a steward almost already. Such 
 men should be promoted to the position of 
 the sort of steward that has been described 
 in the foregoing pages; not promoted to 
 the lower rate of compensation which 
 stewards now generally are receiving, but 
 promoted to still higher salaries than the 
 citefs are getting, with all the honor, 
 auiiiorHy and responsibility of stewardship 
 superadded. 
 
 HOW STORES ARE ISSUED AN'D CHARGED. 
 
 The proprietor of a hotel of small or 
 medium capacity generally has no patience 
 with the "red tape" methods of making 
 requisitions, booking and checking and 
 counter-checking, which he may hear are 
 practiced in metropolitan establishments; 
 he says: "if I didn't think my man was 
 honest I would not have him in my house; 
 if he is determined to steal from me he 
 will steal anyhow, and blank forms to fill 
 out would have no effect ; my way is to 
 hire none but those whose honestv I have 
 confidence in, and then I trust them im- 
 plicitly and let them know that I trust 
 them." Those are the pleasant sort of 
 men to deal with, and theirs are the houses 
 where employer and employe's are like one 
 family. The strict rules are not for them. 
 But take the big city hotel where some 200 
 hands are employed and some among 
 them leave every week and strange faces 
 take their places, and the united family 
 feature disappears and, instead, a system 
 as hard and unsentimental prevails as any
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 31 
 
 that governs a company of miners or mill 
 operatives. No sympathy exists between 
 the lowest grade of workers in the various 
 hotel departments and employers, who 
 each apper to be seeking to take advantage 
 of the other whenever an opportunity 
 occurs. 
 
 In such houses all the doors are guarded. 
 One bears the notice "No admittance to 
 see the help under any circumstances." 
 Another says, "You are not allowed to re- 
 main in the store-room." Another, "You 
 will be discharged if you come in here 
 without permission." There the coffee- 
 maker must count the number of cups he 
 serves out and on no account give out a 
 cup to any employe" without express per- 
 mission, the fruit room and pantry goods 
 are all guarded with the same strictness 
 and a watch is kept upon the hands em- 
 ployed in them, the sarre as upon the 
 coffee- maker. 
 
 Even where a more cordial feeling exists 
 the great number of employes makes a 
 personal acquaintance impracticable, much 
 less individual trust, and a strict and formal 
 accounting in every department is adopted 
 as a measure of the sternest necessity. 
 
 The genial hotel keeper who objects 
 most strongly to those "red tape" measures 
 and is slowest to buy the necessary blanks 
 and books, after once becoming accustomed 
 very seldom abandons them. As to how 
 much of them should be adopted in any 
 given size of house, must of course depend 
 upon the disposition of the proprietor and 
 the degree of personal attention he gives 
 the business. The two different styles of 
 hotel store room have been already de- 
 scribed. Apart from the question of which 
 is the better, many of the largest and best 
 conducted houses have no ro m for a store 
 room in connection with the kitchen, it 
 must be in the basement because the plan 
 of building did not allow for it upstairs. 
 In such places the chief cook, the pastry 
 cook,' the head waiter, the housekeeper, the 
 chief clerk and, perhaps, the barkeeper and 
 other heads of departments write a requisi- 
 
 Beef Loin, 
 
 18 Ibs. 
 
 
 
 " Roast . 
 
 18 
 
 
 
 " Butts 
 
 21 
 
 
 
 Mutton 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Veal _ 
 
 16 
 
 
 
 Pork .. 
 
 18 
 
 
 
 Fish 
 
 JO 
 
 
 
 Butter, table 
 " kitchen 
 Coffee 
 
 VA 
 
 2 
 
 VA 
 
 
 
 Tea 
 
 4. OZ. 
 
 
 
 Syrup... 
 
 i quart. 
 
 
 
 Milk. 
 
 4. emails. 
 
 
 
 Lard . 
 
 2 Ibs. 
 
 
 
 Oatmeal 
 
 \y~ ' 
 
 
 
 Gi its . 
 
 4 4 
 
 
 
 Sugar cut loaf. .. 
 " powder 
 " help's 
 Mackerel 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 2^ ' 
 1O ' 
 
 
 
 Esss 
 
 6 doz 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 tion for the day's or half-day's supplies in 
 a printed blank like this: 
 
 HOTEL BELVIDERE, Nov. 24, 188- 
 Storekeeper deliver to bearer: 
 
 JOHN SMITH, Chef. 
 
 The blank book from which this is torn 
 has a duplicate form, which the chief cook, 
 or other requisitionist, fills out with the 
 prices and total, as follows, and keeps it: 
 
 HOTEL BELVIDERE, Nov. 24, :88. 
 Storekeeper delivered to bearer: 
 
 Beef Loin i81bs.@i9c. 
 " Roast. -.18 " 8c. 
 " Butts 21 " 9c. 
 Mutton 6 " 90. 
 
 3 
 i 
 i 
 
 42 
 24 
 89 
 
 C4. 
 
 Veal 16 " 6>c. 
 
 i 
 
 O4. 
 
 Pork 18 " 6^c. 
 
 i 
 
 17 
 
 Fish 10 " 8c. 
 
 
 80 
 
 Butter, table.. 3^" 3oc. 
 " kitchen 2 " 2oc. 
 Coffee yA " 3oc- 
 
 i 
 i 
 
 05 
 4 
 OS 
 
 Tea -__ 4 oz. @ 6oc. 
 
 
 i: 
 
 Syrup .__ i qt. @ 6oc. 
 
 
 I e 
 
 Milk 4gal@3oc. 
 
 i 
 
 2O 
 
 Lard 2 lbs.@nc. 
 
 
 22 
 
 Oatmeal ij " 40. 
 
 
 6 
 
 Grits -_ 4 " 3c. 
 
 
 12 
 
 Sugar cut loaf. 4 " gc. 
 " powder _ 4 " 9C. 
 " help's 2> " 6c. 
 Mackerel 10 " 3c. 
 Eggs 6doz@2oc. 
 
 i 
 
 36 
 36 
 
 15 
 
 30 
 
 
 $16 
 
 87 
 
 JOHN SMITI 
 
 -i, Chef 

 
 82 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 It may be asked: "What does the chief 
 cook want with the duplicate, when the 
 goods have been entered in the storekeep- 
 er's books before he receives them?" The 
 answer is, it is a part of the unsentimental 
 system of making one employ^ act as a 
 restraint and a check upon another. The 
 wa ters on watch cannot close up and leave 
 the dining-room until the missing knife or 
 spoon has been found or charged up to 
 some delinquent; the chambermaid cannot 
 get a clean towel from the linen-room un- 
 til she brings the dirty one to be exchanged 
 for it. It has been shown how the steward 
 becomes a check upon the cook and the 
 storekeeper upon the steward, and now the 
 cook, and indeed each other one who makes 
 requisitions, becomes a check upon the 
 storekeeper. 
 
 The supposition acted upon is that the bar- 
 keeper might send for five pounds of sugar 
 and the storekeeper might enter it in his 
 book ten pounds; or the cook might draw 
 twenty pounds of meat and the storekeeper 
 might enter it thirty and might then thiow 
 five pounds of sugar and ten pounds of 
 meat out of the window, without coming 
 out short at the monthly stock-taking. 
 Without looking as far as that, the cook 
 keeps the duplicate accounts for self-pro- 
 tection, because the steward will come to 
 him at night and say, "Your bill to-day 
 was twenty dollars more than yesterday ; 
 the proprietor will expect an explanation, 
 do you know what made the difference?" 
 and the cook will want to know whether 
 he has been subjected to an overcharge in 
 the store-room and will look over his own 
 account for that and the preceding day to 
 see how it was, for it is to be observed that 
 an unaccountable increase in the store-room 
 bills fastens upon the cook the accusation 
 of extravagance which he does not wish 
 to incur. The pastry cook, baker, confec- 
 tioner, pantryman and every other one 
 who draws supplies is in the same position 
 as regards their daily accounts, though none 
 have such large amounts to answer for as 
 the chief cook. 
 
 THE STOREKEEPER MUST RISE EARLY. 
 
 One of the most serious of the minor 
 difficulties is connected with the issuing of 
 supplies early in the morning. If the bakers 
 and cooks get a late start, not only will 
 the breafast be ill-cooked and short of some 
 of the dishes which the bill of fare promises, 
 but they scarcely will catch up with their 
 work during the whole day. The bakers 
 want material to use at four o'clock in the 
 morning, the subordinate cooks need nu- 
 merous things such as oatmeal, lard, pota- 
 toes, cracker-dust, onions and potatoes to 
 get their respective shares of the work of 
 preparation done before the head cook 
 comes. The requisitions for the several de- 
 partments have been written out the night 
 before, and when the storekeeper throws 
 open the doors, there is a rush of work 
 upon him, and while he is weighing, 
 measuring and booking the supplies issued, 
 a valuable half-hour or more is lost, per- 
 haps, by each of a dozen hands, and if he is 
 late himself the trouble is so much the more 
 serious. It is contrary to good hotel rules 
 and to good policy to issue the stores over 
 night, the store-room is the place provided 
 to keep such property locked up in. But 
 to facilitate the morning issues the good 
 rule is to have the requisitions from 
 kitchen and bakery sent down over night, 
 together with the pans and pails to hold 
 the goods, the storekeeper fills the orders 
 and books the amounts before closing up, 
 and when the doors are opened next morn- 
 ing the stores can he handed out without 
 delay. 
 
 STORE- ROOM HOURS. 
 
 In every well regulated hotel there are 
 four times in the day, periods of one hour 
 each, when stores are issued, after that the 
 store-room doors are locked, and it must 
 be something very urgent to make them 
 open again before the next regular time. 
 This rule is necessary to prevent the store- 
 keeper's time being consumed by a con- 
 stant doling out of trifles, it makes the 
 cooks and others think what they are going 
 to want and make one order of it. For the
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 33 
 
 storekeeper has much else to do besides 
 issue provisions as has been already shown, 
 and must close his doors in order to do his 
 book-keeping, receiving, auditing accounts 
 and stock-taking. The times of issue aie 
 early in the morning and then just alter 
 each meal, or, rather, while each meai is in 
 progress he issues for the next meal, be- 
 cause it is absolutely necessary that he 
 shall be in the store-room during meals, 
 to be ready to issue special goods which 
 may be unexpectedly needed for some par- 
 ticular orders. 
 
 THE STORE-ROOM ISSUE BOOK. 
 
 The following pages show three differ- 
 ent ways of keeping the issue book. The 
 first is for a written book, an ordinary blank 
 journal will answer, and the storekeeper 
 will draw a line or two on each page as he 
 uses it. The requisitions which come from 
 the different departments repeat themselves 
 every day in the great majority of items, 
 only varying in the amounts called for, 
 thus, the cook always call for the staple 
 meats, fish, poultry, butter, lard, potatoes, 
 etc., and the pastry cook or baker always 
 repeats flour, meal, sugar, butter, lard, eggs 
 and the other staple needs. Therefore the 
 storekeeper when he uses a written book, 
 takes advantage of leisure opportunities 
 and goes several pages ahead and writes 
 in their proper lines the names of such 
 daily staples as is seen in the first specimen 
 page, but leaves vacant lines to write in 
 such articles as are only called for occasion- 
 ally, then when the issues are made he 
 only has to write the number of pounds of 
 the staples instead of the whole line. The 
 specimen pages here following show the 
 rest. It will be observed that a comparison 
 of the totals of the bills run up by any de- 
 partment, can be had instantly by turning 
 over the pages of the account book. 
 
 The storekeeper of the medium size hotel 
 
 from whose written pages the two follow- 
 ing are copied, has not added the prices of 
 articles as he went along, as the frequent 
 repetition of the same items, and his thor- 
 ough acquaintance with everything through 
 his other duty of booking the purchases 
 and examining bills and prices made such 
 itemization unnecessary. He knew that 
 the cost of kitchen butter was fourteen 
 cents per pound, and set down the five-and- 
 a-half pounds at seventy-eight cents, avoid- 
 ing superfluous writing. The four separate 
 entries of butter in the same line show that 
 a requisition for that commodity was sent 
 from the kitchen each time that the store- 
 room was opened. 
 
 As various forms are used in different 
 hotels the specimens on pages 36 and 37 
 are subjoined for the purpose, principally, of 
 showing how numerous the articles are 
 which are required to stock the storeroom 
 of a large hotel. These pages are copies, 
 reduced in size, of the ready-printed requisi- 
 tion lists of one of the largest hotels, a 
 house capable of accommodating one thou- 
 sand guests at once. It is not, however, a 
 pattern to copy after as regards its interior 
 organization. These printed lists are in- 
 tended to serve the double purpose of 
 saving the time of the chief cook and the 
 baker, by giving them the least possible 
 writing to do and to take away the excuse 
 of forgetfulness and frequent sending to 
 the storeroom by enumerating almost 
 every possible thing that can be wanted. 
 
 When these requisitions have been filled 
 and the stores issued, the items and amounts 
 are copied from them into a book as in the 
 other case, at the storekeeper's first oppor- 
 tunity. Any party who may be concerned 
 in the opening of a new hotel may find it 
 profitable to go over these lists attentively 
 before deciding that their storeroom is 
 completely stocked and ready.
 
 84 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 KITCHEN. 
 
 Frida 
 
 V-> De 
 
 cc 
 
 mber //, 1688. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Bro't forward 
 
 $22 
 
 60 
 
 Loins - 
 
 
 oo 
 
 
 Chocolate . ._ 
 
 
 OO 
 
 Roast 16 
 
 i 
 
 28 
 
 
 Chickens, 20 16 
 
 J 
 
 2O 
 
 Butts, 15 14 
 
 2 
 
 71 
 
 
 Apples 
 
 
 2O 
 
 Lamb, 8 10 i 
 
 I 
 
 26 
 
 
 Wine, y z 
 
 
 I : 
 
 Veal 
 
 
 00 
 
 
 C. Fish, 4 Ib 
 
 
 2.1 
 
 Pork 12 
 
 
 78 
 
 
 Oysters ._ 
 
 
 
 Salt 
 
 
 oo 
 
 
 Potash, 4 . 
 
 
 28 
 
 Liver 4 
 
 
 30 
 
 
 Salt, Brine, 15 
 
 
 IO 
 
 Sausage, S . 
 
 
 64 
 
 
 Kraut, 3 
 
 
 24 
 
 Hams, 14 
 
 j 
 
 U 4 
 
 CA 
 
 
 Turnips, y 2 
 
 
 2t 
 
 Tongues, i 
 
 
 .34 
 
 
 L. Peas, 5 
 
 
 Jr 
 
 Bacon 5 _ 
 
 
 
 
 Barley, i V, 
 
 
 12 
 
 Fish, 10 12 _ 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Turkev s, 4 
 
 
 84 
 
 Mackerel, S 
 
 
 54 
 
 
 Macaroni y 2 
 
 
 IO 
 
 Onions, i 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 F. Peas. 
 
 
 2O 
 
 Cabbage, 10 
 
 
 18 
 
 
 Oil, i. _ 
 
 
 I"! 
 
 Parslev, i - 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 C. Berries, i 
 
 
 CO 
 
 Irish Potatoes y 2 i 
 
 
 1 1 
 
 
 Mushrooms, i 
 
 
 2; 
 
 Sweet " i 
 
 
 
 
 Candle, Hall, i 
 
 
 O2 
 
 
 
 4 U 
 
 
 
 
 
 Corn . -_ 
 
 
 oo 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Tomatoes, i i - 
 
 
 60 
 
 
 
 $31 
 
 31 
 
 Grits, 4__ 
 
 
 06 
 
 
 
 
 
 Oat Meal, \y 2 
 
 
 06 
 
 
 
 
 
 Corn " 
 
 
 oo 
 
 
 
 
 
 Coffee $% 2% 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 
 
 Tea 2 4 
 
 
 18 
 
 
 
 
 
 Rice, 4 
 
 
 28 
 
 
 
 
 
 W. Sugar, i 2 i 
 
 
 2C 
 
 
 
 
 
 Brown Sugar 
 
 
 OO 
 
 
 
 
 
 Butter, i \ l /2 2 i 
 Lard 2 
 
 
 78 
 
 I C 
 
 
 
 
 
 Milk, i 
 
 
 23 
 
 
 
 
 
 Efffs 10 ? 10 
 
 
 7c 
 
 
 
 
 
 Soap, i i 
 
 
 IO 
 
 
 
 
 
 Soda, i -- 
 
 
 Os 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 $22 
 
 69 
 
 
 

 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 35 
 
 BAKERY. 
 
 Friday, December n, 1888. 
 D. ROOM. 
 
 C. Meal, 8. 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Nuts,3 
 
 
 45 
 
 Milk, 4 
 
 
 QO 
 
 
 Raisins, 3 
 
 
 JC 
 
 Eggs, 6 3_. 
 
 2 
 
 07 
 
 
 Oranges, 5 3 
 
 
 06 
 
 Butter,4 
 
 
 60 
 
 
 Apples 
 
 
 20 
 
 Lard, 3 
 
 
 21 
 
 
 W. Sugar.... 
 
 
 oo 
 
 W. Sugar, 6 .. 
 
 
 42 
 
 
 C. L. " A. A. A. 
 
 
 oo 
 
 Pow'd "6 
 
 
 to 
 
 
 B. " 2 !/ 2 \f 
 
 
 20 
 
 Brown" 4 
 
 
 26 
 
 
 p. " 
 
 
 oo 
 
 C Loaf " -._ . 
 
 
 oo 
 
 
 S. Milk, 4^ 4 5 
 
 ! 
 
 08 V, 
 
 Brandy,^ 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 B. " 
 
 
 
 Molasses, i_ 
 
 
 IO 
 
 
 Butter y/t y/i y/i 
 
 2 
 
 (^ 
 
 Apples, 5 _ ___ _- 
 
 
 2C 
 
 
 Syrup i i 
 
 
 
 Pumpkin, i __ 
 
 
 ^8 
 
 
 Cheese i^ _ 
 
 
 20 
 
 Currants, 3 . 
 
 
 2A 
 
 
 Preserves, 3 
 
 
 "?"? 
 
 Salt, 12 
 
 
 08 
 
 
 Crackers, 2 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 <>f> 
 
 ?c 
 
 
 Bananas, 100... ...... 
 
 I 
 
 oo 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 $11 
 
 03 
 
 LAUNDRY. 
 
 
 2C 
 
 
 OFFICE. 
 Scrubbing Brush 
 
 
 15 
 
 C Paper 6 
 
 
 C.A 
 
 
 Blacking, i 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Oil 
 
 
 IS 
 
 
 
 79 
 
 
 Brooms, i i _ ._ __ 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 C Paper, 6 
 
 
 54 
 
 
 
 
 
 Soap _ ._..____..___ 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 RECAPITULATION. 
 Kitchen _ ... 
 
 $3i 
 
 
 
 
 $1 
 
 64 
 
 Bakery 
 
 6 
 
 28 
 
 
 
 
 
 D Room _- _______ _. 
 
 ii 
 
 03 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 7Q 
 
 
 
 
 
 Office - 
 
 i 
 
 64 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ice - 
 
 i 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 TOTAL ISSUES 
 
 $52 
 
 45 
 
 
 
 ' 

 
 86 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 COOK'S 
 Store Room Keeper -will deliver the articles enumerated beloiv by quantity, 188 
 
 
 
 ARTICLES. 
 
 
 
 ARTICLES. 
 
 
 
 ARTICLES. 
 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Pan Fish. 
 
 
 Pk. 
 
 Cranberries. 
 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Black Pepper. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Boiled Fish. 
 
 
 Can. 
 
 Green Peas. 
 
 
 <> 
 
 R d ' 
 
 
 < 
 
 Broiled Fish. 
 
 
 Pk. 
 
 
 
 
 Oz. 
 
 Mustard. 
 
 
 Cans 
 
 Oysters. 
 
 
 Can. 
 
 String Beans. 
 
 
 Bot. 
 
 Olive Oil. 
 
 .... 
 
 Qts. 
 
 Cans 
 
 Clams. 
 
 .... 
 
 Pk. 
 Can. 
 
 Lima " 
 
 
 Qts. 
 
 Turagon Vinegr. 
 Apple " 
 
 .... 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Roasting- Beef. 
 
 
 Qt. 
 
 ii 
 
 
 
 
 White Wine" 
 
 .... 
 
 ' 
 
 " Mutton. 
 
 
 Bun. 
 
 Asparagus. 
 
 
 Pts. 
 
 Wine Catawba. 
 
 
 No. 
 
 Breast of " 
 
 
 Can. 
 
 ' 
 
 
 " 
 
 " Rhine. 
 
 
 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton. 
 
 
 Doz. 
 
 Green Corn. 
 
 
 
 
 " Port. 
 
 
 
 
 Rack " " 
 
 
 Can. 
 
 if <i 
 
 
 " 
 
 " Claret 
 
 
 
 
 Loin " Veal. 
 
 
 Pk. 
 
 Tomatoes. 
 
 
 " 
 
 " Sauterne. 
 
 
 i 
 
 Rack " 
 
 
 Can. 
 
 " 
 
 
 " 
 
 Cordial Anisette. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Shoulder " " 
 
 
 Pk. 
 
 Cucumbers. 
 
 
 " 
 
 " Maraschino. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Breast " " 
 
 
 Bun. 
 
 Radishes. 
 
 
 ii 
 
 " Curacoa. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Loin " Pork. 
 
 
 Can. 
 
 French Peas. 
 
 
 < 
 
 " Chartreuse. 
 
 
 
 
 Rack " 
 
 
 M 
 
 " Beans. 
 
 
 <i 
 
 American Champagne. 
 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Spare Ribs, " 
 
 .... 
 
 " 
 
 Succotash. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Brandy. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Corned Beef. 
 
 
 * 
 
 Macedoine. 
 
 
 i< 
 
 R'im. 
 
 
 Cans 
 
 X 11 
 
 
 l 
 
 Okra and Tomatoes. 
 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Raisins. 
 
 
 No. 
 
 Turkeys. 
 
 
 Qts. 
 
 Split Peas. 
 
 
 i 
 
 Currants. 
 
 .... 
 
 " 
 
 Chicken Broilers. 
 
 
 
 Navy Beans. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Citron. 
 
 
 " 
 
 " Roasters. 
 
 
 Pk. 
 
 Apples. 
 
 
 Oz. 
 
 Lemon Extract 
 
 
 ' 
 
 Ducks. 
 
 
 
 
 Pears. 
 
 
 
 
 Almond. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Geese. 
 
 
 Can. 
 
 Salmon. 
 
 
 ii 
 
 Vanilla. 
 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Liver. 
 
 
 
 
 Crabs. 
 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Flour. 
 
 
 No. 
 
 Kidneys. 
 
 
 
 
 Lobsters. 
 
 
 
 
 Corn Meal. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Ox Tails. 
 
 
 
 
 Shrimps. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Cracker Meal. 
 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Tripe. 
 
 .... 
 
 " 
 
 Green Turtle. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Oat Meal. 
 
 
 No. 
 
 Calf's Head. 
 
 
 
 
 Mock " 
 
 
 " 
 
 Manioca. 
 
 
 i 
 
 Sweetbreads. 
 
 
 
 
 Sardines. 
 
 
 < 
 
 Cracked Wheat. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Calf's Brains. 
 
 
 
 
 Condensed Milk. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Cornstarch. 
 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Sausage. 
 
 
 
 
 Desiccated Cocoanut 
 
 
 
 
 Gelatine. 
 
 ,.!! 
 
 No. 
 
 Beef Tongue Pickled. 
 
 ."! 
 
 < 
 
 Peaches. 
 
 
 
 
 Rice. 
 
 * ... 
 
 " 
 
 " " Smoked. 
 
 
 ' 
 
 Pears. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Tapioca. 
 
 - ... 
 
 " 
 
 " " Fresh. 
 
 
 ' 
 
 Apricots. 
 
 .... 
 
 " 
 
 Sago. 
 
 .... 
 
 
 
 Hams. 
 
 .... 
 
 
 
 Figs. 
 
 
 '* 
 
 Farina. 
 
 
 PCS. 
 
 Hreakfast Bacon. 
 
 
 
 
 Cherries. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Grits. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Smoked Beef. 
 
 
 ' 
 
 Pineapple. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Barley. 
 
 
 Doz. 
 
 .Salt Mackerel. 
 
 
 Doz. 
 
 Lemons. 
 
 
 " 
 
 It ilian Paste. 
 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Salt Codfish. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Oranges. 
 
 
 ' 
 
 Macaroni. 
 
 
 Cans 
 
 Codfish Balls. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Bananas. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Vermicelli. 
 
 
 Doz. 
 
 Scotch Herring'. 
 
 
 Jar. 
 
 Anchovy Paste. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Spaghetti. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Holland " 
 
 
 Can. 
 
 Mushrooms. 
 
 
 Oz. 
 
 Mace. 
 
 .-. .. 
 
 Pks. 
 
 [rish Potatoes. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Russian Caviar. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Allspice. 
 
 
 ' 
 
 Sweet " ' 
 
 
 Bot 
 
 Truffles. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Cinnamon. 
 
 
 < 
 
 Turnips, 
 
 
 " 
 
 Gumbo File. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Cloves. 
 
 
 1 
 
 Parsnips. 
 
 
 ' 
 
 Curry Powder. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Nutmegs. 
 
 .... 
 
 ' 
 
 Beets. 
 
 .... 
 
 " 
 
 Mushroom Catsup. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Ginger. 
 
 
 ' 
 
 Peppers, Green. 
 
 .... 
 
 " 
 
 Walnut " 
 
 
 " 
 
 Whole Pepper. 
 
 .... 
 
 ' 
 
 " Red. 
 
 .... 
 
 " 
 
 Cipers. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Sage. 
 
 
 1 
 
 Carrots. 
 
 .... 
 
 Pt. 
 
 Olives. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Thyme. 
 
 
 
 
 Squash. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Worcestershire Sauce. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Sweet Majoram. 
 
 .... 
 
 Doz. 
 
 Egg Plant 
 
 
 Bot 
 
 Chow Chow. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Celery Seed. 
 
 .... 
 
 " 
 
 Cauliflower. 
 
 
 " 
 
 M xed Pickles. 
 
 
 " 
 
 B:iy Leaves. 
 
 
 Pks. 
 
 Salsify. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Gherkins. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Jhives. 
 
 
 Hds. 
 
 v. abbage. 
 
 .... 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Currant Jelly. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Chevril. 
 
 
 Doz. 
 
 Lettuce. 
 
 
 < 
 
 Apple " 
 
 
 " 
 
 Burnet 
 
 
 Pk. 
 
 Spinach. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Cheese. 
 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Yeast Powder. 
 
 ...! 
 
 < 
 
 Turnip Greens. 
 
 
 Doz. 
 
 Egsfs. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Hi. Curb, of Soda. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Kale. 
 
 
 Qts. 
 
 Milk, Fresh. 
 
 
 Xo. 
 
 Ball Potash. 
 
 !..! 
 
 Bun. 
 
 Parsley. 
 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Butter. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Matches. 
 
 ... 
 
 " 
 
 Mint. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Lard. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Twine. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Celery. 
 
 
 " 
 
 >rown Sugar. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Paper. 
 
 
 w 
 
 Leeks. 
 
 
 " 
 
 A 
 
 
 " 
 
 Soap. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Garlic. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Pulverized Sugar. 
 
 
 " 
 
 handles. 
 
 
 " 
 
 Cress. 
 
 
 Pk. 
 
 Salt. 
 
 
 " 
 
 i'encil Tablets. 
 
 Chief Cook. 
 
 Chief Cook is earnestly requested not to order in excess of actual wants, and to return all articles not 
 used at the end of each meal to Store Roorrt Keeper. He will also see that none of his subordinate* 
 make use of profane or obscene language while on duty. 
 
 'ONLY ECONOMICAL COOKS COMMAND GOOD POSITIONS..
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 37 
 
 HOTJSE 
 BAKER'S AND PASTRY COOK'S REQUISITION. 
 
 Flour 
 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 
 Peaches, Pie _ _ 
 
 
 Cans, 
 
 Rye Flour 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 Peaches, Table 
 
 
 
 Graham Flour 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 Apples 
 
 
 u 
 
 Buckwheat Flour 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 White Cherries 
 
 
 H 
 
 Corn Meal 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 Red Cherries 
 
 
 It 
 
 Butter 
 
 
 (1 
 
 
 Gooseberries ____ 
 
 
 H 
 
 Lard 
 
 
 It 
 
 
 Raspberries ._ 
 
 
 M 
 
 A Sugar 
 
 
 (I 
 
 
 Blueberries ... 
 
 
 H 
 
 Pulverized Sugar 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 Blackberries 
 
 
 H 
 
 Svrup 
 
 
 <( 
 
 
 Muscatel Grapes 
 
 
 M 
 
 Brown Sugar 
 
 
 <( 
 
 
 Catawba Grapes 
 
 
 
 
 Corn Starch 
 
 
 (( 
 
 
 Pie Plant 
 
 
 U 
 
 Soda .. 
 
 
 H 
 
 
 Green Gages . _ 
 
 
 
 
 Yeast Powder _. 
 
 
 il 
 
 
 Irish Potatoes 
 
 
 Pks. 
 
 Hops.... 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 Sweet Potatoes 
 
 
 u 
 
 Malt 
 
 
 U 
 
 
 Salt 
 
 
 u 
 
 Des. Cocoanut 
 
 
 (1 
 
 
 Vanilla Flavor 
 
 
 Qts 
 
 Chocolate 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 Lemon Flavor 
 
 
 u 
 
 Raisins 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 Almond Flavor 
 
 
 H 
 
 Currants, Layers 
 
 
 (t 
 
 
 Raspberry Flavor 
 
 
 U 
 
 Currants, Seedless 
 
 
 H 
 
 
 Pineapple Flavor 
 
 
 U 
 
 Citron 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 Strawberry Flavor 
 
 
 u 
 
 Figs .. 
 
 
 it 
 
 
 Rose Flavor 
 
 
 u 
 
 Gelatine 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 Molasses 
 
 
 u 
 
 Apple Jellv 
 
 
 H 
 
 
 Sweet Wine 
 
 
 u 
 
 Quince Jelly 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 Dry Wine 
 
 
 u 
 
 Peach Jelly 
 
 
 It 
 
 
 Brandy 
 
 
 M 
 
 Raspberry Jelly 
 
 
 (1 
 
 
 Rum 
 
 
 (1 
 
 Mince Meat . 
 
 
 
 
 
 Condensed Milk 
 
 
 Cans 
 
 Allspice 
 
 
 (1 
 
 
 Sweet Milk 
 
 
 Gal 
 
 Cloves 
 
 
 ( 
 
 
 Sweet Cream 
 
 
 
 Mace 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 Lemons 
 
 
 Doz. 
 
 Cinnamon, Ground 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 Bananas 
 
 
 u 
 
 Ginger 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 Oranges 
 
 
 II 
 
 Fennel Seed 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 Farina 
 
 
 Lb. 
 
 Shelled Almonds 
 
 
 (1 
 
 
 Sago 
 
 
 a 
 
 Apricots 
 
 
 Cans. 
 
 
 Tapioca .. 
 
 
 u 
 
 Pineapple 
 
 
 tt 
 
 
 Eggs 
 
 
 Doz. 
 
 Date,. 
 
 Baker and Pastry Cook. 
 
 Pages 38 and 39 show, greatly reduced in 
 size, leaves from the most elaborate form 
 of storeroom account book. Blank books 
 of this pattern with the headings, rulings 
 and everything printed except, of course, 
 the figures and unusual items, are copy- 
 right property. The system is, however, 
 only the same as that on pages 34 and 35 
 carried up to the highest class of hotel 
 with its more numerous departments, and 
 the book large enough to admit the totals 
 
 from the receiving books and meal count 
 and steward's daily memoranda. It will 
 be seen that the day's transactions are 
 shown by this book at a glance, and the 
 amount of stock in the storeroom is known 
 at any time. There is a monthly stock 
 taking, however, to verify these totals. 
 Taken in connection with the previous 
 explanations of the workings of the 
 steward's department this example ex- 
 plainsitself,and may be studied with profit.
 
 38 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 HOTEL 
 
 Date, Friday, July 23, 
 
 
 KITCHEN. 
 
 
 
 
 
 FRUIT PANTRY 
 
 
 
 21 Ibs. 
 
 38 
 
 i Bbl 
 
 3 Ibs. 
 
 % " 
 2 bars 
 
 3 Dz- 
 
 2 " 
 
 i pk. 
 i " 
 12 qts. 
 20 
 i Ib. 
 i " 
 i Can 
 7 Ibs. 
 ipkg 
 2 cans 
 
 2 " 
 
 7 Ibs. 
 8 " 
 2 cans 
 
 Mutton 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 3 
 
 !> 
 
 I 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 5 
 
 63 
 60 
 50 
 
 15 
 
 12 
 
 16 
 
 00 
 
 90 
 
 75 
 
 20 
 9 6 
 
 85 
 
 43 
 06 
 
 19 
 47 
 10 
 ii 
 4 o 
 27 
 25 
 
 20 
 Si 
 19 
 
 I qt. 
 
 2 cans 
 8 qts. 
 
 Vinegar 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 32 
 
 56 
 
 80 
 
 Loin - 
 
 Milk _ 
 
 Potatoes . 
 
 Figs _. 
 
 Rice 
 
 Fruit.. 
 
 Coffee 
 
 
 
 Soap 
 
 
 
 
 
 G. Corn 
 
 
 
 
 
 Parsley 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 78 
 
 S. Beans 
 
 Beets 
 
 Milk 
 
 
 HELP'S HAI L. 
 
 
 
 Chickens -- 
 
 Tea 
 
 Crackers 
 
 5 Ibs. 
 
 2 " 
 
 3 cans 
 2 Ibs. 
 
 "A" Sugar 
 
 
 35 
 15 
 48 
 
 34 
 
 Tomatoes . 
 
 Gran. Sugar 
 
 Gran. Sugar 
 
 Pearline 
 
 Milk 
 
 S. Beans 
 
 Butter 
 
 Peaches 
 
 
 Lima Beans 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 32 
 
 Pea Beans 
 
 
 Ham and Butter 
 Butter _.. --- 
 
 
 PASTRY ROOM. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 Ibs. 
 
 2 " 
 I " 
 I " 
 
 6 " 
 6 cans 
 i bot. 
 ipkg 
 
 Raisins 
 
 i 
 
 30 
 
 12 
 08 
 07 
 4 2 
 06 
 
 70 
 09 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Currants 
 
 
 
 
 
 Citron 
 
 
 
 
 
 Gran. Sugar 
 
 
 
 
 
 Pul. " 
 
 
 
 
 
 Milk 
 
 
 
 
 
 Vanilla 
 
 
 
 
 
 Yeast 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 74 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ENGINE ROOM. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 LAUNDRY. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ipkg 
 2 doz 
 
 Pearline 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 C. Pins - 
 
 
 
 35 
 
 24 
 
 
 
 18
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 39 
 
 :R,OO:M 
 
 
 CIGAR STAND. 
 
 
 
 
 WINE ROOM. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Stock on hand, morning- 
 Issues . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sales 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Stock on hand, night 
 
 
 
 
 BAR. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Total Receipts forward. _ 
 Receipts to-day 
 
 2,318 
 i5 
 
 56 
 
 20 
 
 6^Dz 
 3,600 
 8 Ibs. 
 
 
 2 
 
 60 
 
 Coronado Cigars 
 
 Total. 
 
 2,503 
 
 70 
 
 Pul Sugar _ 
 
 
 56 
 
 
 3 
 
 16 
 
 Total Issues forward 
 Issues to-day 
 
 1,581 
 
 47 
 
 96 
 76 
 
 
 BILLI'D ROOM. 
 
 
 
 Total 
 
 i/>J9 
 
 72 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Stock on hand, morning. 
 
 736 
 
 _iS5_ 
 9^T 
 47 
 
 60 
 
 20 
 
 So 
 76 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Stock on hand, evening.. 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^74 
 
 04 
 
 
 OFFICE. 
 
 
 
 Morning Count 
 
 
 
 
 
 37 
 
 127 
 34-3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Actual Meal Count 
 Actual Average Cost 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 * 
 
 RECAPITULATION. 
 
 
 
 
 HOUSEKEEPER 
 
 
 
 Kitchen 
 
 35 
 3 
 3 
 
 78 
 74 
 32 
 
 i cake 
 2 bars 
 
 Sapolio . 
 
 
 10 
 
 16 
 
 Fruit Pantry 
 
 
 Soap 
 
 Help's Hall.. 
 
 
 
 26 
 
 Cigar Stand 
 
 44 
 
 08 
 
 
 TURKISH BATH 
 
 
 
 Bar ._ 
 
 3 
 
 16 
 
 Billiard Room 
 
 
 
 
 
 Wine Room 
 Barber Shop 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Turkish Bath .... 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Laundry 
 
 
 18 
 26 
 
 
 
 
 
 Housekeeper 
 
 Office 
 
 
 BARBER SHOP. 
 
 
 
 Engine Room 
 
 
 08 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Total Issues 
 
 47 
 
 76
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 HOTEL BELVIDERE. 
 
 Date, Friday, July, 23, 1887. 
 
 KITCHEN. 
 
 
 
 35 
 
 3 
 i 
 
 24 
 
 78 
 32 
 
 
 BROUGHT FOKWAKD. 
 
 PASTRY ROOM. 
 
 
 
 40 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 34 
 
 74 
 
 08 
 
 18 
 
 16 
 
 21 Ibs. 
 38 " 
 i Bbl. 
 3 Ibs. 
 
 1 A " 
 2 bars 
 
 3Dz- 
 
 2 " 
 
 i pk. 
 i " 
 12 qts. 
 20 
 i Ib. 
 i " 
 i Can 
 7 Ibs. 
 i pkg. 
 2 cans 
 
 2 " 
 
 7 Ibs. 
 2 cans 
 
 Mutton 
 Loin 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 3 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 63 
 60 
 50 
 
 15 
 
 12 
 
 16 
 
 00 
 
 90 
 
 75 
 20 
 96 
 85 
 43 
 06 
 
 19 
 
 47 
 
 IO 
 
 ii 
 40 
 
 27 
 
 25 
 
 20 
 
 75 
 19 
 
 2 Ibs. 
 
 2 " 
 I " 
 I " 
 
 6 
 6 cans 
 i bot. 
 i pkg. 
 
 Raisins 
 Currants 
 Citron 
 
 i 
 
 30 
 12 
 
 08 
 
 07 
 
 % 
 
 96 
 70 
 09 
 
 Potatoes 
 Rice 
 
 Gran. Sugar 
 Pul. 
 Milk 
 
 Coffee 
 
 Soap 
 
 G. Corn 
 Parsley 
 S. Beans 
 Beets 
 
 Vanille 
 Yeast 
 
 
 ENGINE ROOM. 
 
 
 08 
 
 Milk 
 
 Chickens 
 Tea 
 
 
 Sandpaper . 
 
 
 Crackers 
 Tomatoes .. 
 Gran. Sugar 
 Pearline 
 S. Beans 
 Peaches 
 Lima Beans 
 Pea Beans. . 
 Corn 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 LAUNDRY. 
 
 
 IO 
 
 08 
 
 i pkg. 
 2 doz. 
 
 Pearline 
 C. Pins. ... 
 
 
 CIGAR STAND. 
 
 
 
 Ham and Batter. 
 
 i tub 
 
 Butter 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 BAR. 
 
 2 
 
 60 
 
 56 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 6y t Dz 
 
 8 Ibs. 
 
 Lemons 
 Pul. Sugar. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 BILLI'D ROOM. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 FRUIT PANTRY. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 :qt. 
 2 cans 
 8 qts. 
 
 Vinegar 
 Milk 
 
 2 
 
 IO 
 
 32 
 56 
 So 
 
 OFFICE. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Figs .. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 HELP'S HALL. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 Ibs. 
 
 2 " 
 
 3 cans 
 2 Ibs. 
 
 "A" Sugar.. 
 Gran. Sugar 
 Milk 
 
 
 35 
 i5 
 48 
 
 34 
 
 HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 
 IO 
 
 16 
 
 
 26 
 ~ 
 
 i cake 
 2 bars 
 
 Sapolio 
 Soap 
 
 Butter 
 
 
 ~r 
 
 
 
 40 
 
 34 
 
 
 
 
 
 47
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 41 
 
 STORE ROOM ACCOUNTS. 
 
 BROUGHT FORWARD 
 
 BARBER SHOP. 
 
 
 
 47 
 
 76 
 
 
 1 
 WINE ROOM. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Stc 
 
 r 
 
 Sal 
 Stc 
 
 >ck o 
 ling 
 
 es 
 
 n hand, mor- 
 [ssues 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 TURKISH BATH 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ck on hand, night 
 
 
 
 
 
 Total Issues 
 
 
 
 47 
 
 76 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Total Receipts for- 
 ward 
 
 2318 
 
 56 
 
 185 
 
 20 
 
 2503 
 1629 
 
 874 
 
 7 6 
 
 72 
 
 04 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 
 
 Receipt 
 1 
 Total Is 
 Issues 
 1 
 Stock o 
 ning. 
 
 s to-day 
 
 fetal. 
 
 
 
 sues forward 
 to-day 
 
 1581 
 
 96 
 
 47 
 
 76 
 
 fatal 
 
 
 
 n hand, mor- 
 
 736 
 
 
 i37 
 
 44 
 
 60 
 
 Add 
 
 
 Stock on hand, eve- 
 ning. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mornin 
 Averag 
 Actual 
 Actual 
 
 g Count 
 e Cost 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 37 
 
 I27 o 
 34-8 
 
 Meal Count. 
 A.verageCost 
 
 A blank book of unusually large size is 
 required for the elaborate method of 
 keeping the store room accounts shown 
 on preceding pages, in fact it is intended 
 for both storekeeper and steward or 
 manager to make entries; the former 
 carries out his own part showing the 
 amount of the daily issues etc., and the 
 steward using J r.k of another color (to 
 show which were his own entries, in case 
 of dispute) fills in the number of meals 
 served a::d the cost per head. As in such 
 a case the storekeeper is almost sure to 
 use a commo- memorandum book to 
 
 make his entries in first, at the time of 
 issue, and copy it into the big book after- 
 wards the objection of " double trouble " 
 will be made everywhere but in the larg- 
 est hotels and another method is here 
 offered, sufficiently simple for use in a 
 written book yet more comprehensive 
 than the first example. The " recapitula- 
 tion " which is for the proprietor to see 
 at a glance is here unnecessary, the totals 
 appearing in a separate column plain to 
 see, and these columns added separately, 
 prove each other and reduce the chances 
 of making mistakes.
 
 42 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CHANGING COOKS IN A LARGE HOTEL. 
 
 This is the most serio-comical occurence 
 that ever takes place in grand establish- 
 ments. Some hotels make changes so 
 often that all concerned get used to it, they 
 get the mode of procedure down to a fine 
 point; still the operation is always a critical 
 one, attended with serious dangers, which 
 can only be safely laughed at after the 
 crisis is past. For everything in a hotel, 
 even the very continuance of the business, 
 depends upon the cooks, the lapse of even 
 a single meal would shake up the house 
 and bring consternation upon the people 
 equal to a small earthquake ; it is the diffi- 
 culty of making the connections so close 
 that the one intervening meal will not be 
 dropped that makes the experience excit- 
 ing. The determination to make a change 
 is not often reached suddenly, but the com- 
 plaints and dissatisfactions grow and in- 
 crease through several weeks, perhaps 
 months. There is no particular reason why 
 a chief cook, who does not give satisfaction, 
 should be retained except the fear of under- 
 taking the delicate task of making a change 
 of administration. There are always plenty 
 of fine cooks ready to take employment in 
 the hotels which will pay high enough 
 salaries. So the complaints go on and 
 grow for a while. There are bickerings 
 and fencings, defiance and sharp words 
 betwixt the chief cook and those in author- 
 ity over him so constantly that a state of 
 sullen enmity becomes the ordinary rule 
 of their relations. All at once a change of 
 temper takes place. The steward or man- 
 ager or proprietor, as the case may be, be- 
 gins to act very pleasantly toward the chef, 
 they treat him to smiles sarcastic smiles, 
 but perhaps he does not detect the sarcasm. 
 He has his own way undisputed and grows 
 good-natured, too. It is wonderful then 
 what peace and harmony pervades all the 
 culinary departments; it seems impossible 
 for anybody to do wrong, for no more 
 faults are found and there is no more driv- 
 ing. The fact is the steward and proprietor 
 have been telegraphing and writing and 
 
 have secured their new man, and try to 
 practice such extreme secrecy about their 
 movements, lest the chef should suspect 
 the truth too soon, they nearly overdo it, 
 and it is only the latters egotism that pre- 
 vents him from seeing that something is 
 going to happen, for all those around him 
 are conscious that things are not what the} 
 seem, and while they whisper about among 
 themselves, not really knowing anything, 
 they have nothing openly to say. Next, 
 there are two or three strangers seen tak- 
 ing back seats in the office or waiting room . 
 they came on the morning train. Strangers 
 of all sorts are arriving constantly, that is 
 nothing, but, somehow, these do not seem 
 to be of the usual sorts. One of them, at 
 least, is well dressed, but they do not act 
 like commercial travelers nor like men of 
 leisure, the very hall boys observe that, and 
 when it is seen that the steward is more 
 concerned with them than the clerks are, a 
 light begins to break and the whisperings 
 about the house increase. Then the stew- 
 ard takes the strangers, or at least the best 
 dressed one of them, and shows him inside 
 the dining room, then the breakfast room 
 and ladies' ordinary, then to the pantry, if 
 that happens not to be in plain sight of th<. 
 kitchen, then takes him back to the office, 
 where they have a long talk. By that time 
 the headwaiter knows all about it, although 
 not a word has been said to him, for he 
 knows that if it had been any other strang- 
 er viewing the house out of curiosity, it 
 would have been the proprietor or a clerk 
 showing him around instead of the steward. 
 But why so much secrecy? Because the 
 chef above all things hates to have it said 
 that he was discharged, or that he was 
 'rolled," t. e., pushed out of his place by 
 another chef. He may not care for the 
 loss of the situation, may even be glad of a 
 rest, but he wants the first word and to say 
 that he quit; and if he knows for certain 
 that a new chef has come to the house, he 
 will pull off his jacket instantly and make 
 his second and third cooks do the same, 
 will gather up his knives and all will go to 
 the office and demand to be paid off. The
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 steward wants the first word, too, but he 
 thinks more about the ensuing meals and 
 desires to let the new chef in at night when 
 his opportunities for getting acquainted 
 with his new surroundings will be better 
 than between meals. Therefore he con- 
 tinues the secrecy to the latest moment, 
 waits until all the cooks have left the kit- 
 chen in the afternoon, then shows the new 
 chef the interior and takes him to see the 
 Ice chest, and as soon as supper or evening 
 dinner is well ready, he informs the present 
 head of the kitchen that his money is ready 
 for him in the office and he will not be re- 
 quired to prepare breakfast. Some men at 
 such a juncture are kinder and better nat- 
 ured than others and yield gracefully, that 
 is, thev act like gentlemen and throw no 
 obstacles in the way of their successor. 
 Common men, however, immediately go 
 around and undo whatever they can that 
 has been done in preparation for the next 
 day. They throw out their soup stock, 
 their salad dressings, their espagnole and 
 other sauces, their aspics, their croquette 
 preparations, their codfish balls, which 
 were ready for breakfast; they stop the 
 vegetable parers from their work, forbid 
 the replenishment of coal and kindling 
 boxes, in short do whatever they can think 
 of in half an hour to make it hard for 
 the fellow that comes after them. The 
 pastry cook under the same circumstances 
 throws away his yeast and neglects to set 
 the sponge for the morning bread, hides 
 away the baking powder, puts soda in the 
 cream of tartar package, hoping to cause 
 mistakes, puts salt into his wine jellies and 
 custard mixtures, hoping the new man will 
 use them, breaks the oven damper and 
 stuffs rags into the flue. And yet the 
 breakfast appears on the table the next 
 morning the same as usual, and if any dif- 
 ference is observed by the guests, it is very 
 likely to be in the way of improvement, 
 for the new hands are anxious and doubly 
 attentive. 
 
 The obstacles thrown in the way of the 
 new chef do not set him back because the 
 tricks are all so old, he knows them all 
 
 himself. He takes no notice of what his 
 predecessor has done, or what he has left 
 behind him, but begins everything anew, 
 even if he has to bribe some of the help to 
 work late that night; and, if the former 
 chef has left a can of his favorite sauce or 
 a salad, just to give the new man some- 
 thing to pattern after, the new man puts 
 on a scornful smile and pitches it into the 
 swill-barrel. The new pastry cook knows 
 in advance all about the yeast trick, and has 
 brought some fresh yeast in his pocket 
 ready for the fray; he tastes and tests 
 everything, walks straight to the chimney 
 and pulls out the stuffing of rags, throws 
 out the former pastry ccok's treacherous 
 compounds, which he knows are only 
 snares to entrap him, and then goes 10 
 work, and the day succeeding sees every- 
 thing going on as usual ; the crisis is past. 
 
 HOW THE NEW CHEF BEGINS HIS DUTIES. 
 
 Sometimes the change of cooks is made 
 by common consent when the one wants- 
 to get away for reasons of his own, and 
 there is then no secresy and no surprise, 
 which must be regarded fortunate for the 
 new man, for no matter how well experi- 
 enced he may be, he finds the first day in a 
 new situation a hard one, even when every- 
 thing is left running on in its proper order, 
 and so much the worse when the late in- 
 cumbent has done all he can to make it hot 
 for him. It is hard at first to find any article 
 that he wants, he must find the thing by 
 searching in various places instead of being 
 able to lay his hand upon it from habit with- 
 out thinking, and then his kitchen hands are 
 strange to him. However, he has his own 
 second cook, perhaps one or two more 
 whom he knows. Beginning at night, he 
 first makes sure of his fireman, finding out 
 if he can be relied upon to have the fires 
 made early enough, and he sees to it with 
 his own eyes that the fuel is good and 
 easily reached. He divides the breakfast 
 work in his own mind into three divisions, 
 the meats, the fries and the vegetables. 
 The meats Include everything that is to be 
 broiled, also the eggs, and he sees whether
 
 44 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 the small meats are ready cut and in the 
 refrigarator, if the whole list which appears 
 upon the breakfast bill of fare is there, or 
 whether only part is ready ; then he pro- 
 ceeds to cut or have cut and prepared the 
 missing articles, which may be chickens, 
 fish to broil, or ham. The fries include 
 fish, oysters in all ways, fried potatoes, chip 
 potatoes, fried mush, codfish balls, breaded 
 cutlets, liver and tripe. The vegetables 
 are not really vegetables, but are miscel- 
 laneous dishes grouped together that way, 
 because prepared in part by the vegetable 
 cook; they are oatmeal, cornmeal mush, 
 grits, stewed potatoes, hash, fried onions, 
 stewed tripe. Some of these things the 
 vegetable cook carries out complete, others, 
 such as the stews, that cook only prepares 
 oy cutting up ready and the second cook 
 finishes. The meat division belongs to the 
 second cook, though he probably will have 
 the meat cutter, or some other, to do the 
 broiling, he having to dish up orders and 
 do the most of the egg cooking ; his first 
 part of getting ready for breakfast is the 
 making of the stews and assisting with the 
 frying of cutlets and breaded fish, the third 
 cook being busy getting enough Saratoga 
 chips and French fried potatoes along with 
 other fries to keep ahead of the orders. 
 The head cook's duty is to "make" his eggs, 
 as the kitchen phrase is, that is to cook 
 them as ordered, but this he only does dur- 
 ing a rush of orders, and after seeing that 
 everything is running on right and nothing 
 has been forgotten, he leaves the front of 
 the range and puts in every minute he 
 possibly can in preparing his soups and 
 entrees for lunch and dinner. His ability 
 to run the kitchen is according to his abil- 
 ity to remember everything that must be 
 done and every item of material that will 
 be required to work with ; he makes out 
 his requisition over-night, and it will be 
 well for him, if he does not forget some- 
 thing of small value seemingly, yet quite 
 indispensable, and it is no less important 
 for him to know which one of his half 
 dozen assistants will do each particular 
 thing, and to give them their orders accord- 
 
 ingly. After the first newness is over, 
 each of these hands will know the part he 
 or she has to perform, and will do the same 
 every day, but at first all the strain is upon 
 the head cook. 
 
 The first breakfast is, however, only half 
 his cares ; at the same time of survey of the 
 breakfast meats over night, he also sees 
 what there will be for dinner, plans the 
 bill of fare, if the steward has not planned 
 it for him, and looks about for the where- 
 withal to make his first dinner in the house 
 a credit to himself, and then he must see 
 that whatever will require the most time is 
 begun first, and must plan the work of 
 each one of his helpers. His second leaves 
 the breakfast work next morning like him- 
 self, and begins the work on lunch and 
 dinner, and side by side they both do the 
 ame work, boning veal or fowls, stuffing, 
 larding, barding, cutting meat small, cook- 
 ing, pressing, cooling and re-cooking sweet- 
 breads, mincing mushrooms, onions, 
 parsley, cutting truffles in dice, boning, 
 pressing and afterwards cutting up the 
 cooked calfs head for soup, making cro- 
 quettes, filleting fish, cutting croutons of 
 bread, preparing salads, making sau'- 
 finishing the soups; and the second COOK 
 as his special duty makes the sweet entrees, 
 while the third or roast cook roasts and 
 boils the plain meats, the vegetable cook 
 prepares all the vegetables, except such 
 things as breaded and fried egg-plant, and 
 another cooks meat for the hands. 
 
 When the sixty or eighty different oper- 
 ations have been merged into the thirty or 
 forty dishes, which constitute the meat 
 cook's part of the great hotel dinner and 
 the meal is about ready, he takes a bill of 
 fare which has just come from the printers, 
 calls the half dozen principal helpers to 
 him and reads off each item, every accom- 
 paniment, every sauce, every form of veg- 
 etables, and asks if that is ready. If any- 
 thing has been forgot, they make haste to 
 get it ready yet before the doors open. 
 
 When the dinner is about over, and the 
 quantities have proved to be just right, and 
 no person has been denied anything he
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 45 
 
 called for, the headwaiter steps into the 
 carving room and passes some pleasant 
 remark to the steward ; the steward strolls 
 over to where the new chef stands, makes 
 some pleasant remark to him and they 
 shake hands. Soon after the chef finds 
 most of his assistants near him, and- sud 
 denly he says: 
 
 "Well, boys, how was that for a dinner?" 
 
 "Went off first rate," says one cautiously. 
 
 "A pretty good dinner," says another, 
 with slowness and great emphasis on each 
 syllable. 
 
 "Well I should say it was !" exclaims the 
 chef, with more emphasis still, "consider- 
 ing it was the first day, too ! Boys, there's 
 a bottle of beer apeice for you in the basket 
 under my desk there's a bottle or two of 
 Rhine wine there, besides, if any of you 
 would rather have it, help yourselves." 
 And the chef goes to his room. 
 
 THE DRINKING HABITS OF COOKS. 
 
 While there are and can be only a very 
 few hotels of the largest size and highest 
 style, what few there are have great in- 
 fluence in setting the fashions in interior 
 management, and many among the vast 
 number of smaller hotel proprietors, as 
 well as their employes, have had unpleasant 
 experiences of the slighting manner, the 
 real contempt with which the cooks from 
 those larger hotels speak of the smaller and 
 less pretentious houses, because of their 
 denial of certain privileges and their greater 
 regard to expenses. But one of the cus- 
 toms of the largest hotels, is a decidedly 
 pernicious one and brings back punishment 
 upon the employer by increasing the habit 
 
 of intemperance among their employe's, 
 that is the custom of serving out regular 
 rations of liquor and an almost unrestricted 
 issue of wines and liquors on demand, 
 ostensibly for cooking purposes. It looks 
 generous in the hotel-keeper, but it is not 
 really so, but the cooks secure the conces- 
 sion through their united demands. When a 
 cook is wanted, telegraphed for, written 
 for, as shown in a preceding page, he first 
 inquires about the amount of salary offered 
 and next stipulates how much liquors and 
 wines per day shall be allowed to the kit- 
 chen. When he get? to work, first thing 
 among the morning issues from the store- 
 room comes a quart of whiskey, which he 
 divides among the hands, taking two shares 
 for himself. At the rooks' nine o'clock 
 breakfast, instead of coffee they each drink 
 a pint of cheap California wine, or, if they 
 do not like that, they are allowed a pint 
 bottle of beer, and at least once or twice 
 more during the day wine or beer is served 
 out again, while the chef, as well as head 
 pastry cook, has a supply of various liquors 
 always at hand. They would be more 
 than human, if they could avoid excess 
 under such circumstances. But cooks must 
 drink something, theirs is a thirsty occu- 
 pation. They do not need the whiskey 
 early in the morning, and that is the most 
 harmful of all their allowances, but let the 
 hotel keeper or steward act as their friend, 
 give them the needed bottle of weak wine 
 or cool and harmless beer in the heat of 
 the day when the work is hard, and never 
 allow bottles of rum or other liquors to be 
 issued at all. He should pour the wine in 
 the soup and brandy or rum in the sauce 
 himself.
 
 HOW TO WRITE THE BILL OF FARE. 
 
 With a great many persons occupied 
 daily in the preparation of the hotel din- 
 ners, the composition of the bill of fare is 
 the one literary effort of their life, it is 
 their first timid step upon the threshold of 
 the temple of belles lettres, where they be- 
 gin to use the strange words of a strange 
 language and watch for the effect to see 
 whether they are understood and whether 
 they have said them aright. The words 
 and the language and the whole operation 
 . of forming the bill of fare, are strange for 
 the reason that our people generally are 
 not "gastronomically educated," as the 
 latest phrase has it; neither the great mass 
 of the people, who come to the hotels, nor 
 many of those whose business it is to cater 
 to their wants, have ever studied the sub- 
 ject of the composition of various dishes 
 and their proper names, or thought much 
 about the correct order of serving them, 
 while still it is felt that a code of gastrono- 
 mical proprieties must have been form- 
 ulated somewhere in the upper regions of 
 culture, and every sort of writer of the bill 
 of fare tries to show his acquaintance with 
 it according to his light. In looking over 
 a promiscous collection, especially of hotel 
 dinner bills, it is not difficult to pick out 
 the bad examples which show how "fools 
 rush in where angels fear to tread," and 
 also the specimens which have emanated 
 from a student of the subject who feels a 
 proper pride in his performance, because 
 he understands the motives which lie at 
 the bottom ; the great majority are, how- 
 ever, of the sort that are written as a task 
 which must be performed daily by some- 
 body and bear no marks of the pleasure 
 which that task possibly may bring, when 
 the reasons for every line and every sort 
 of arrangement are thoroughly compre- 
 hended. 
 
 THE AMERICAN HOTEL DINNER BILL THE 
 STANDARD. 
 
 Premising, for the information of the 
 learner, that there are other forms of the 
 bill of fare suitable for private parties, 
 formal banquets and for club dinners, it 
 may confidently be asserted that the pre- 
 sent general form of bill in use at the hotels 
 of the United States and Canada is the best 
 for the purpose of the regular dinner or 
 table d' hote system, and the most perfect 
 which could be devised, both for the display 
 of culinary proficiency and for the allow- 
 ance of the freest choice to the dinner. 
 This statement is made for the benefit of 
 those who may chance to pick up speci- 
 mens of old-country bills divided into 
 "First Service Second Service," or ''Pre- 
 miere Service Deuxieme Service Troi- 
 sieme Service" and the several different 
 forms adopted by various clubs for the 
 sake of singularity, as well as the specimens 
 of dinners served in courses, all of them 
 forms not suited to the requirements of the 
 hotel dinner and therefore not to be 
 adopted unawares in the effort for improve- 
 ment. 
 
 The present form has, so to speak, formed 
 itself in accordance with the tastes and re- 
 quirements of the people for whom hotels 
 exist, the arrangement of dishes is accord- 
 ing to their home-formed habits; by which 
 is meant that our people take meats and 
 savories but once in the meal and do not 
 take meats again in the "second service," 
 but only sweets and fruit. 
 
 THE HOTEL PRESS AND RECENT IM 
 PROVEMENTS. 
 
 The good taste and good sense which 
 characterizes the hotel bill of fare in general 
 is largely attributable to the course of teach- 
 ing and criticism of the hotel newspapers 
 for, up to a few years ago, a vast proportion
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 47 
 
 of the bills were very ridiculous affairs and 
 the greatest mostrosities among them were 
 those which they that wrote them thought 
 were the best. It is only about a dozen 
 vears since hotel papers came into exist- 
 ence. Before that time there were no 
 sources of information on such subjects 
 but a few antiquated cook-books which 
 taught by-gone styles, and the mixed bills 
 of the cooks of various nationalities em- 
 ployed in the larger hotels. These showed 
 lists of dishes enough and good ones, of 
 course, but without the translations of their 
 names into plain English and the statement 
 of the reason for their appearing in any 
 particular order of succession, su6h exam- 
 ples did more harm than good. The sub- 
 sequent .intelligent discussion of the 
 questions led to such favorable results that 
 there is no diffculty now in the learner 
 finding a riliable pattern since the bill of 
 almost any good hotel may be taken as a 
 model, while the main arguments on the 
 various points may be found in the hotel 
 books now in existence and need not be 
 gone over again in this place. Some minor 
 questions still arise, however, which will 
 be briefly stated in order to a full under- 
 standing, it being noted in advance that a 
 perfect uniformity in the bills of all the 
 hotels would be very undesirable ; we can 
 usually select our favorite newspapers from 
 a pile of papers through some individuality 
 of appearance, their type, their make up, 
 their color, their headings or absence of 
 them, and we should value this stamp of 
 individuality just as much in hotel bills of 
 fare as in newspapers. 
 
 BILL OF FARE OR MENU. 
 
 Strictly speaking these words are not of 
 quite the same significance. The menu is 
 the fare, the bill of fare is to tell what the 
 fare consists of; the menu is the "lay out," 
 the bill of fare is the itemized description 
 of the " lay-out," as if one should say, "this 
 is my library ; this is the catalogue of my 
 library." People meet and discuss or enjoy 
 the menu or fare, but they do not discuss 
 the bill of fare. Nevertheless, by the 
 elasticity of language, menu is used in the 
 
 same sense as bill of fare, and either word 
 may be chosen with propriety; menu is 
 thought to be the more stylish of the two 
 and is oftenest preferred now to head the 
 dinner list. In this connection it may not 
 be out of place to remark that cuisine also 
 has a double sense, meaning both kitchen 
 and cooking ; la cuisine is the kitchen, but 
 when it is said that any hotel is noted for 
 its excellence of its cuisine it implies the 
 other meaning of the word cooking. 
 Many hotels reject the use of both menu 
 and bill of fare, and head their bills with 
 the word "Dinner." Others, again, follow 
 the mothod of the annexed example and 
 make the announcement of table </' hote 
 (which is equivalent to our plain American 
 "regular dinner") do duty instead of either 
 term. 
 
 In regard to the examples of bills of fare 
 here to be found, it must be explained that 
 they are taken up by chance from a very 
 large collection and are neither selected as 
 models or otherwise, but are only the first 
 that came to hand which happen to illu- 
 strate the particular point under consider- 
 ation. 
 
 Metropolitan Hotel Eestaurant. 
 
 Thursday, February 4, iSSb. 
 
 TABLE D' HOTE 3 TO 1 O'CLOCK 
 INCLUDING WINE, $1.00. 
 
 Oysters on half shell 
 Consomm vermicelli Mock turtle i la Francaise 
 
 Boiled halibut, lobster sauce 
 Potatoes Hollandaise 
 
 Smoked tongue with green kale 
 
 Fricassee of chicken wings with oysters 
 
 Sauerkraut & la Francfort au jus 
 Fresh beef tongue brais^e, sauce piquante 
 Spaghetti !! a la Napolitaine 
 
 Spaghe 
 Ribs of beef 
 
 Stewed tomatoes 
 Boiled rice 
 
 Turkev, cranberry sauce 
 Salad " 
 
 Mashed potatoes 
 Peas 
 
 Bread pudding, wine sauce 
 
 Assorted cakes Strawberry ice cream 
 
 Assorted fruit 
 
 French coffee 
 
 M edoc 
 
 English cheece 
 
 The very choicest selection of Cigars to be friai in ths 
 City, for sale in Cafe. 
 
 JOHN M. OTTER, MANAGER.
 
 48 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 HEADINGS OR NO HEADINGS? 
 
 The above very excellent bill is strictly 
 in accord with the opinions and teachings 
 of the hotel press, unless an exception be 
 taken to the cigar line at the bottom, and 
 particularly so in regard to the small num- 
 ber of dishes, the absence of "relishes," 
 and the absence of headings. Here is an 
 example from a hotel in the extreme South, 
 but under New York management and 
 running at four dollars a day, which uses 
 headings and includes "relishes," and there 
 are good reasons on this side of the ques- 
 tion, too. 
 
 FROM 6 TO 8. 
 
 MONDAY, ALARCH ib, 1885. 
 
 St. Germaine. 
 
 SOUP., 
 
 Consomin6 Printanier Roval. 
 
 FISH 
 
 Boiled Sea Bass, Sauce Hoilandaise. 
 
 Potatoes Parisienne. 
 
 RELEVE. 
 
 Corned Bjef and Cabbage. 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 Becassines en Salmi a 1'Anoienne. 
 
 Fricandeau of Veal, Biurgeoise. 
 
 spaghetti au Gratin, Piemontaise. 
 
 Chocolate Fritters, Vanilla Sauce. 
 
 ROAST. 
 
 Ribs of B-ef. Ham, Champagne Sauce. 
 Young Turkey, Stuffed. 
 
 CAME. 
 
 Bran; with Jelly. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Boiled Potatoes. Mashed Turnips. 
 
 Green Peas. I'aked Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 RELISHES. 
 
 Horse Radish. Gherkins. 
 
 Chow-Chow. Lettuce. 
 
 White Onions. 
 Olives. 
 
 PASTRY AND DESSERT. 
 
 Steamed Raisin Pudding, Brandy Sauce. 
 
 Apple Pie. Pound Cake. Chocolnte Slices. 
 
 Jelly Drops. Lemon Sherbet. 
 
 Apples. Oranges. Asorted Nuts. Raisins. 
 Roquefort, Edam and Orange Co. Cheese. 
 
 Crackers. 
 COFFEE. TEA. 
 
 Waiters are furnished -with Wine Cards. 
 
 All Dishes not on the Bill of Fare, and all Fruit or 
 Lunch taken from Table will be charged extra. 
 
 Guests having friends to meals will please register 
 
 at office. 
 BREAKFAST FROM 7 to 10; SUNDAY FROM 8 to n. 
 
 The writer of these lines prefers to use 
 headings, always writes his bills that way, 
 
 considering that the hotel is an inn, a car- 
 avansary where people come as strangers, 
 and the ways of the house should be made 
 as plain as possible for them. Very few of 
 these transients are "gastronomically edu- 
 cated," few of them, comparatively, have 
 ever ordered from a bill of fare, and with a 
 waiter standing by waiting for them to 
 speak, they have trouble enough to order 
 their meal intelligently even with the help 
 of plain headings ; the bill without headings 
 must seem like a mass of dishes thrown 
 together without order and without a pur- 
 pose. Witness the following bill without 
 headings, divisions or spaces, as it is found 
 in a New York hotel paper. Possibly .the 
 original was better looking. 
 
 WICTORIA HOTEL. 
 
 Blue Point Oysters 
 
 Creme a la Windsor Consomme Xapolitaine 
 
 Fondu of Cheese on Toast Krench Sardines 
 
 Saucisson D' Aries Celery Queen Olives 
 
 Boiled Redsnapper, Sauce Fiamande 
 
 Potatoes Nature! Sautees au Beurre 
 
 Turkev Boiled, Celery Sauce Smoked Jowl with 
 
 Sauerkraut Loin of veal stuffed, Sauce 
 
 Andalouse 
 
 Sirloin of Beef larded a la Lithuanienne 
 Lamb Chops Farandale 
 
 Rice Croquettes with Apricots 
 Sherbet au Citron 
 
 Ribs of Beef Capon, Giblet Sauce Saddle of 
 
 Mutton Spare Ribs of Deerf oot f arm pork, 
 
 Apple Sauce Red head Duck with 
 
 Orange Marmalade 
 Salads Chicken Mayonnaise Lobster Potato 
 
 Lettuce 
 Pate de Foie Grass Truffe Boned Chicken with 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Plain Lobster Tongue Etc 
 
 Boiled Potatoes Mashed Potatpes Boiled Onions 
 
 Rice Peas Beets Spinach Baked Sweet 
 
 Potatoes Squash Fried Oyster Plant 
 
 Spaghetti Italienne 
 
 Rice Pudding, Port Wine Since 
 
 Cocoanut Pie, Green Gape Pie, Almond Slices, 
 
 Gateaux Boston Cream Cukes Wine Jelly 
 
 Vanilla Ice Cream. 
 Xuts Raisins Figs Fruits 
 
 American, Rouquefort, Brie and Neufchatel Cheese 
 cafe 
 
 The reason given for omitting headings 
 from the bill of fare is that it is more 
 "tony" to do without them Their absence 
 implies a compliment to the guests by the 
 supposition that they are "gastronomically 
 educated," that they do know the proper 
 order of dishes and the locality in which to 
 look for them without anv guiding signs. 
 It will be seen, then, that the bill without 
 headings is proper for select family hotels, 
 but not best for commercial hotels, railroad 
 depot hotels, nor for the generality of re-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 49 
 
 sort houses. And if the bill without head- 
 Ings is desired in such establishments, the 
 dishes should be few as in our first sample 
 menu, so that they may be comprehended 
 at once and the dinner selected with ease 
 even by a stranger to hotel customs. 
 
 WHAT SHOULD THE HEADINGS BE? 
 
 The ordinary headings are soup, fish, 
 boiled, roasts, entrees, vegetables, cold 
 dishes, pastry, dessert. That is for com- 
 mon life without any pretentions to style, 
 and the order of arrangement is as the 
 people generally want it, in that order they 
 take their dinner. And here it may as 
 well be explained that pastry is not prop- 
 erly called dessert, although it is the gen- 
 eral custom to apply the term dessert to all 
 the sweets which constitute the second 
 service of the dinner. "Pastry and dessert" 
 is the most convenient foi m as it admits 
 everything, but "dessert" alone means 
 fruit, confectionery, very light sweets and 
 ices. But where something above the or- 
 dinary is desired, when the meals and the 
 menu are intended for something above 
 the run of common life, more divisions 
 appear and more headings. The first 
 example menu and the second are alike in 
 one particular, they make the "Boiled" 
 appear before the "Entrees" and the 
 "Roast" after them, and the second uses 
 the word "Releve" instead of "Boiled," as 
 would be the case in the first example were 
 headings used in it at all. This arrange- 
 ment is immaterial and merely a matter of 
 literary taste, as the people for whom the 
 dinner is prepared nearly always take all 
 their meats, whether boiled, roasted, entrees 
 or game, at one and the same time, and the 
 vegetables of their choice with them. If 
 the third example menu were properly 
 strung out and the headings inserted, it 
 would show cold hors d'oeuvres, soup, hot 
 hors d'ceuvres, fish, releves, entrees, sorbet, 
 roasts, game, salad, and cold dishes, veg- 
 etables, pastry, dessert, thirteen headings 
 besides cheese and coffee, which usually go 
 as distinct items without headings, but 
 which nevertheless make up the thirteen 
 
 courses into which such a dinner can be 
 divided. The Victoria menu is faulty in 
 respect to mixing the hot and cold hors 
 d 'ceuvres or side dishes. Oj sters raw, al- 
 though some what of an American specialty, 
 are but one of the cold hors d ''ceuvres, or 
 appetizers, preliminary to the meal and no 
 more entitled to stand alone than the 
 others, "French Sardines Saucisson 
 d' Aries Celery and Queen Olives," which 
 all strictly belong in the same place as the 
 oysters. The hot hors d'' ceuvres belong 
 where the one in that bill appears ; it is the 
 "Fondu of Cheese on Toast," or Welsh 
 rarebit. All of this style is, however, felt 
 to be very cumbersome ; it is difficult to 
 handle all these formalities in strict pro- 
 priety and the sensible thing is to drop the 
 superfluities there is no use for the hot 
 hors d'aeuvre, except in a formal course 
 dinner, and that being omitted, such side 
 dishes as sliced tomatoes, olives and celery 
 are placed after the soup instead of it. 
 
 COMPLIMENTARY banquet given by Mr. Alder- 
 rnan Whitehead to Major and Sheriff Davies and a 
 large number of the inhabitants of Cheapward, at 
 the Guildhall Tavern, London, on the 26 of October. 
 The catering was up to Messrs. Ritter & Clifford's 
 best form, and the menu as follows: 
 
 HOKS D'CEUVRES. 
 Haute Sauterne. Sardines. Prawns. Caviare. 
 Foie Gras. Olives. 
 
 Clear Turtle. Thick Turtle. 
 
 Soles a la Normande. 
 
 Stewed Eels en Matelotte. 
 
 Turbot, Hollandaise and Tartar 
 
 Sauces. 
 Fried Smelts. 
 
 Lobster Cutlets. 
 Sweethreads with Truffles. 
 
 Salmi of Widgeon. 
 Roast Turkey Poults. 
 
 Ox Tongue. 
 
 Boiled Capons and Cumberland 
 Hams. 
 
 Saddle Mutton, French Salads. 
 Braized Calves Head. 
 
 Wild Ducks. Partridges. 
 Mushrooms. 
 
 German Puddings. 
 
 Curacao Jelly. 
 
 Maraschino Jelly. 
 
 Chartreuse of Grapes. 
 
 Swiss Pastry. 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 ICES. 
 
 Lemon Water. 
 Raspberry Cream. 
 
 Turtle Punch. 
 
 Vino de Pasto. 
 
 RudesheimerBerg. 
 
 Irroy, iSSo. 
 
 Veuve Clicquot, 
 1880. 
 
 Piper's Tres Sec., 
 
 iSSo. 
 Perinet et Fils, 
 
 1880. 
 Pommery et Greqo, 
 
 1880. 
 
 Claret. 
 Chateau la Rose. 
 
 Sandeman's Old 
 Port.
 
 50 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 If headings are used and kors cCceuvres 
 appear under their proper head, they are 
 not designated as hot or cold, however, for 
 their place in the bill shows of which de- 
 scription they are, as the bill of fare on the 
 preceding page illustrates. Had this been 
 in the United States the first section would 
 have been "Blue Point Oysters," and there 
 might have been a total omission of all the 
 other cold hors d'ceuvres, just as in this bill 
 there is a total omission of the vegetables, 
 which of course they had, as not worth 
 mentioning. 
 
 To be fair, however, here is an example 
 where both classes of Itors d'cettvre are 
 printed after the soup, the "Bouchees 
 Viennoises" being Vienna patties, a hot 
 kors d'aeuvre, as most of those small trifles 
 are, which in our American bills are classed 
 as entrees. 
 
 Menu of a dinner served at the Continental, Paris, 
 being a banquet given to Hon. Geo. Walker by the 
 Stanley Club. The dinner was of thirty covers, and 
 this is what they had: 
 
 MENU. 
 
 Consomm^ aux pointes et quenelles bisque. 
 
 Hors d'ceuvre vane's. 
 
 Bouchees Viennoises. 
 
 Turbot, sauce crevettes et Hollandaise. 
 
 Poulardes a la Chevali6re aux truffes. 
 
 Langouste a la Parisienne. 
 
 Sorbet Jamaique. 
 Faisans et perdreaux sur croustades. 
 
 Salade. 
 Pat<5s de foie gras de S'raebourg. 
 
 Petits pois a la financiere. 
 Bomb Glac6e vaniile et abricots. 
 
 Gateau Havana is. 
 Corbeilles de fruis. Bonbons. 
 
 Petits fours. 
 
 Xeres. Chateau Durcc. Chateau Clemens. 
 
 Pommard. Bacherolles. Medoc en carafes. 
 
 Champagne. Heidsieck. Monopole. 
 
 Caf6 et Liqueurs. 
 
 As, perhaps, not one in ten thousand in 
 this country understand French, as applied 
 to dishes in a menu, and as these articles 
 are intended to be informatory, the above 
 may be translated thus : 
 
 SOUPS clear soup with Asparagus points 
 and the thick soup which we call cream a 
 la duchesse. HORS D'CEUVRES various 
 (varies), as, for example, in the London bill 
 preceding. HORS D'CEUVRE (hot) Vienna 
 patties or bouchees ati salpi<^on. FISH 
 turbot, with choice of two sauces, shrimp 
 and hollandaise. ENTREES chicken fried, 
 truffle sauce, sea crayfish or small lobster 
 in Parisian style. SORBET with Jamaica 
 
 rum, perhaps a new name for Roman or 
 ri:m punch. GAME pheasants and par- 
 tridges on ornamental fried toast. SALADS 
 not specified what kind. Raised pies of 
 foie-gras (Strasbourg fat goose liver), green 
 peas in sauce, moulded vanilla ar.J apricot 
 ice creams, Havana cake, baskets of fruit, 
 candies, small cakes, wines, coffee and 
 liqueurs. 
 
 PIFTH AVENUE HOTEL, New Y 
 Oysters on half shell 
 
 SOUPS. 
 Paysanne Clarr. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Boiled Haddock, shrimp sauce Baked Sole, Genoise 
 Small Potatoes 
 
 RELEVES. 
 
 Leg of Mutton, caper sauce Corned Beef and 
 Cabbage Chicken and Pork Calf's Head 
 brain sauce Beef Tongue 1 
 
 COLD DISHES. 
 
 Beef Tongue Roast Beef Ham Bor.erl Turkey 
 
 Lobster plain Chicken Salad Lobster Salad 
 
 Lamb Head Cheese 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 Sirloin of Beef Ji la Bordelaise 
 Snipe bardie sur croustade 
 
 Epigramme of Lamb aux pet::- 
 
 Bouch^es of Ovsters a ia R-eine 
 Chicken & la Chassei:: 
 
 Cream Fritters, ' .-j.n'\..z flavor 
 ROASTS. 
 
 Chicken Ham champagne sauce Mongrel Duck 
 Beef Saddle of Mutton 1u:-"<-y 
 
 Curacoa Sherbet 
 
 GAME. 
 
 Antelope 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Boiled Potatoes Onions Stew-ed Tomatoes. 
 Mashed Potatoes Beets Swee: P 
 Hominy Fried Parsnips T 
 Spinach String Bear.s 
 PASTRY AND DESSERT. 
 Suet Pudding, -vine sauce 
 Rice Pudding Sliced Apple Pie 
 Cocoanut Pie Fancy Mac:- 
 
 Holland Cake Charlotte Russe Ladies' Cake 
 Almonds Oranges Raisins Pecan Xuts 
 
 Apples Grapes Pears Bar 
 Hickory Xuts Figs English Walnuts 
 Vanilla Ire Cream 
 Coffee. 
 
 When, in the matter of these side dishes 
 or of any other question of arrangement, 
 there seems to be such diversity of practice 
 even amongst the higher class of caterers, 
 we come back to the fact that there is such 
 a thing as an American hotel bill of fare that 
 is a pattern to itself, and indeed is becoming 
 a pattern to many on the other side of the 
 Atlantic as numerous printed bills of their 
 hotels show, and the old forms, which are
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 51 
 
 more perplexing than useful to follow, are 
 In our bills of fare ignored and left over 
 for those to carry out whose duties compel 
 them to conform to foreign usages. The 
 hotel narr.ed on preceding page will be re- 
 cognized as a representative one and one 
 of the largest size, yet its bill of fare is very 
 faulty in arrangement, if it is to be judged 
 by foreign rules ; it is, curiously enough, the 
 desperate effort to make an American hotel 
 bill conform to a Parisian pattern, in reason 
 and without reason, which makes it faulty, 
 for it is neither the one nor the other; the 
 curacoa sherbet, the antelope, the snipe and 
 the salads are all out of their proper places 
 beyond dispute, while other dishes and 
 even divisions stand upon disputed ground. 
 But to finish the hors d'ceuvres question: 
 One object of inserting the Fifth Avenue 
 Hotel hill on preceding page was to show 
 that even the best hotels do not always 
 enumerate such things as come under that 
 designation, but if they do, the proper place 
 for celery, olives, sliced tomatoes and sim- 
 ilar cold trifles is after the soup. It is 
 necessary to state this definitely because 
 serious contentions often arise between 
 steward and proprietor on just such ques- 
 tions, and there are some who maintain 
 that such cold "appetizers" should be 
 written in after the fish " to take away the 
 taste of fish," as they reason. In the 
 smaller hotels, where the cold trifles are 
 placed on the table in advance to facilitate 
 quick service and save waiters' labor, the 
 particular line occupied in the bill of fare 
 is of little consequence, but the best usage 
 decides after the soup. For example: 
 
 HORS D'CEUVRE. 
 
 Oysters on half shell. 
 
 SOUPS. 
 Clam Paysanne 
 
 Celery Olives Sardines Prawns Caviar 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Boiled Haddock, shrimp sauce Baked Sole Genoise 
 Parisian Potatoes. 
 
 SERVING POTATOES WITH FISH. 
 
 A cursory examination of the hotel bills 
 of fare from all parts of the country will 
 
 show that the custom of serving potatoes 
 in some fancy form with fish has become 
 very general, so much so that a bill does 
 not seem to be complete nor as stylish a 
 it might be if that feature happens to have 
 been omitted. It is a recent custom which 
 originated in the famous restaurants of 
 Paris, notably at Brebant's, for whom one 
 of the forms of potatoes is named, that we 
 designate a la Brabant. It comes quite as 
 natural to eat vegetables with fish as with - 
 meat, yet foreign custom, and particularly 
 English custom, has confined us hereto- 
 fore to bread generally brown bread 
 with that course. The ornamental addi- 
 tion of potatoes to the sauce is the more 
 satisfactory, because the individual style of 
 service of the present day shuts out most 
 of the ornamental styles of dishes that 
 used to be served whole. Potato croquettes 
 and croquette balls, leaf, heart and star 
 shapes of duchesse potatoes carefully egged 
 over and baked, and, indeed, all the varia- 
 tions that are in use are great helps to the 
 appearance of a plate of fish. 
 
 ALWAYS SERVE FISH ON SMALL PLATES. 
 
 New waiters generally have to be in- 
 structed on this point, as they are most apt 
 to take a meat dish for fish. But if they 
 serve it so, the person at table will slip it 
 from the dish to his plate, and the dinner 
 plate will then have to be changed for the 
 meat course. Apart from that considera- 
 tion, the fish looks better on a dessert plate, 
 and it cannot be transferred to another 
 without "mussing" it up with its sauce. 
 The diner eats it from its own small plate, 
 garnished as the cook sends it in. 
 
 WHICH FIRST, JOINTS OR ENTREES? 
 
 It will be observed that in all the ex- 
 ample bills of fare thus far shown the roast 
 meats appear after the entrees; in the first 
 one the entrees come next after the fish, in 
 the others the "fence is straddled" and the 
 boiled meats precede entrees and roast 
 meats follow them in another place. Here 
 is a Scottish bill that looks a good deal like 
 American style except that it has no vege-
 
 52 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 tables or other minor mention, and in this, 
 too, the entrees follow the fish. The cor- 
 respondent writes : 
 
 "A presentation dinner was given by 
 the Queen's Own Yeomanry Cavalry to 
 their major on the occasion of his leaving 
 for India. I got hold of the bill of fare 
 a good, healthy volunteer menu which I 
 now present: 
 
 Hare Soup. Oyster Soup. 
 
 Clear Oxtail. 
 
 Turbot, Lobster Sauce. 
 
 Dressed Cod, Oyster Sauce. 
 
 Filleted Sole. 
 
 Mutton Cutlets, Sauce Piquante. 
 Sweetbreads with Mushrooms. 
 
 Curried Rabbit. 
 SuprCme of Chicken aux Truffes. 
 
 Sirloin of Beef. 
 
 Haunch of- Venison. 
 
 Braised Turkeys, Celery Sauce. 
 
 Roast CLickens. Yorkshire Ham. 
 
 Ox Tongues. 
 
 Victoria Pudding. Lemon Pudding. 
 
 Berlin Tarts. Swiss Souffles. 
 
 Stewed Fruits. Blancmange. 
 
 Noyeau Jellies. 
 
 Dessert. 
 
 Now, all of these try to follow the 
 French custom of serving the entrees first, 
 only because it is the French way, and 
 those who split the difference and place 
 boiled on top, entrees in the middle and 
 roasts next, get the roast beef and such 
 solid joints so far down, because the French 
 roasts are placed there in French bills, 
 without taking notice that such French 
 bills never contain any plain boiled meats, 
 nor plain roast beef, nor mutton. Their 
 roasts (rots) are some choice kinds of small 
 game, something that is considered better 
 in some way than the made dishes or en- 
 trees. The French idea is that plain roasted 
 or boiled meats are not good enough for a 
 fine menu. (Look at the representative 
 menu of the dinner given in Paris by 
 the Stanley Club, a little way back no 
 boils or roasts are there.) Instead of crowd- 
 ing the English favorite boiled leg of 
 Southdown mutton into that Parisian bill 
 just under the turbot, and the American 
 
 favorite rare roast beef into the place occu- 
 pied by pheasants and partridges sur crou- 
 stades, we do better to make our own style 
 of bill of fare according to the preferences 
 of our own people, who, generally speak- 
 ing, regard the joints as the principal part 
 of a dinner and all the rest as little nic- 
 nacks, very nice in their place, but of no 
 great consequence. 
 
 Practically it does not make much dif- 
 ference whether the entrees or the boils 
 and roasts are placed first in order, for ex- 
 perience shows that people choosing from 
 a bill of fare nearly always select whatever 
 meats they intend to partake of all at one 
 time, boiled joints, roasted joints, entrees 
 or game, and their favorite vegetables with 
 them, without regard to the order in which 
 they are ranged in the printed list; still it 
 is most proper to place the substantial 
 meats before the entrees, in conformity 
 to the principles laid down by the French 
 gastronomers themselves. 
 
 Here is the ideal menu embodied in a 
 recent sketch by a. feuilletonist of the day, 
 "Max O'Rell." He depicts a little party of 
 three or four "gastronomically educated'' 
 individuals, Paris gourmets, in fact, seri- 
 ously engaged in the absorbing question 
 what to order for dinner at the fashionable 
 restaurant, where they are seated, and the 
 subjoined shows the outcome of their de- 
 liberations: 
 
 "Consomme' aux pois. 
 
 Oysters and a sole Normande. 
 
 Pheasant a la Sainte-Alliance. 
 
 Chateaubriand. 
 Tenderest of asparagus a 1'Amazone. 
 
 Suprfemes de mauviettes. 
 
 Ortolans a la Provencale. 
 
 Meringues a la vanille. 
 
 Ice, cheece, dessert." 
 
 But it is easy to see that " Max O'Rell " 
 has been studying Brillat Savarin and the 
 Physiology du Gout for his purpose; the 
 dishes are Savarin's favorites, the "pheas- 
 ant a la Sainte-Alliance" was his own in- 
 vention, the menu is necessarily good and, 
 which is most to the point, its arrangement 
 of dishes in place is according to one of the 
 axioms laid down by that much admired
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 53 
 
 teacher that the order of dishes should be 
 from the plain and substantial to the more 
 light and delicate, the motive being to pro- 
 long the pleasure of eating by leading on 
 from dish to dish, from good to better and 
 best. In this the ideal menu of this literary 
 man is precisely the same as the best spe- 
 cimens of the American hotel bill of fare. 
 After the soup and fish comes the roast 
 pheasant, equivalent to our every-day roast 
 chicken or turkey stuffed; the Chateau- 
 briand, which comes next, is the fillet 
 of beef, with natural beef juice for its 
 sauce; it is to all intents the same as 
 our roast beef and the nearest thing to 
 plain roast beef that a proper Parisian 
 menu ever shows. More delicate and 
 more piquantly seasoned than those 
 are the larks and then the ortolans, the 
 fattest of small birds, and called the choic- 
 est morsel that is known to epicures. Ac- 
 cording to that rule, our entrees, seasoned, 
 flavored and spiced, decorated to tempt the 
 appetite that is already satisfied with plain 
 food, should be placed after the substantial 
 boiled and roasted meats, instead of before. 
 And yet we would not have every bill look 
 alike. 
 
 THREE ROYAL EXAMPLES. 
 
 Not to depend upon the idealism for 
 high sanction, however, the following 
 menu of an actual affair shows a pretty 
 good pattern of the American style ; that 
 is of the essential part, for these menus 
 never mention the vegetables unless they 
 are made into a good dish such as we call 
 a vegetable entree and they call entremets, 
 just as our bills never mention bread un- 
 less it is made up into some form like crou- 
 stades, sippets or toast: 
 
 "Gala dinner served at Prince Fursten- 
 berg's palace, at Kremsier, to the Emperors 
 of Austria and Russia and seventy-six 
 guests. The table was laid with the costly 
 service of gold plate from the Imperial 
 Palace of Schtfnbrunn. The following 
 menu was placed before the illustrious 
 diners: 
 
 Tortue Claire^ 
 
 Bouchees a 1'Empereur. 
 
 Filets de Saumon a la Cardinal. 
 
 Piece de Boeuf et Selle de Veau. 
 
 Supreme de Poularde a la Financiere. 
 
 Chaudfroid de Cailles. 
 
 Sorbet. 
 
 Selle de Chevreuil, Salade et Groseilles de Bar. 
 
 Fonds d'Artichauts a la Demidoff. 
 
 Pouding a la Creme de Vanille. 
 
 Gelee au Muscat Lunch 
 Fromages. Glaces aux Noisettes. Dessert." 
 
 There is a clear turtle soup ; a hot hors 
 d'ceuvre\ fillets of salmon with a sauce 
 made red with lobster coral ; a piece of beef 
 and saddle of veal, roasted of course; a 
 rich fricassee of chicken, white, and a rich 
 fricassee of quails, brown, for the entrees ; 
 then punch. Next, the game, saddle of 
 venison with currant jelly and a salad, and 
 artichoke bottoms for the vegetable to eat 
 with it. Then a vanilla cream pudding, 
 muscat wine jelly, cheese, ices, nuts and 
 fruit. The piece of beef and saddle of veal 
 above the entrees is the feature that makes 
 it like an American bill of fare and differ- 
 ent from French bills, and it has a familiar 
 appearance all through. 
 
 "The following is the bill of fare of a nice 
 little dinner given by the Archduke Joseph 
 of Austria to a select party of guests at his 
 charming country seat on Marguerite 
 Island, on the Danube, near Buda-Pesth. 
 Count Zichy presided, the Archduke being 
 prevented from appearing at the table 
 owing to his being in court mourning: 
 
 MENU. 
 
 Potage a la Colbert 
 
 Piece d'esturgeon, sauce remoulade. 
 
 Filet de boeuf al'Ans^laise. 
 
 Bouch6es a la Reine. 
 
 Perdreaux r6tis. 
 
 Salade Francaise. 
 
 Turas-Haluska. 
 
 Glace panachee. 
 
 Cafe'. Liqueur Zichy. Creme. 
 
 Partaken of to the melodious accompani- 
 ment of a band of Tziganes (Anglice, 
 Hungarian band), and washed down with 
 various bottles of Hungarian wines, 
 amongst which reigned supreme a regi- 
 ment of Imperial Tokay, 1834."
 
 54 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 There is a soup to be found in American 
 bills any day; piece of sturgeon with a va- 
 riation of tartar sauce, or mayonaise with 
 minced pickles in it; fillet of beef in En- 
 glish style, which is plain roasted with 
 mushrooms; only one entree, which is a 
 patty that might do equally well as a hors 
 d'cEti-ure; then roast partridge and a French 
 salad. Turas-Haluska is a Hungarian 
 pudding; then comes tri-colored or Neapol- 
 itan ice cream and dessert. 
 
 "Menu of a September lunch served at 
 Mar Lodge upon the occasion of the 
 Prince of Wales' visit to the Earl of Fife : 
 
 Consomm6 de volaille. 
 
 Turbot creme au gratin. 
 
 S&lmis de grousses a la Mar Lodge. 
 
 Poulets a la Viennoise. 
 
 Filet de bceuf Bordelaise. 
 
 Quartier d'agneau r&ti, sauce menthe. 
 
 Perdreaux r6tis. 
 
 Petits pois Franjais. 
 
 Souffle Bearnaise chaud. 
 
 Mousse au cafe." 
 
 In that there is a quarter of lamb, roasted, 
 with mint sauce, and a fillet of beef. The 
 arrangement of dishes is slightly different 
 from others, due to the preferences of the 
 French c kef who prepared the menu. The 
 last dish named is a coffee-flavored whipped 
 cream, a froth. 
 
 These selections are more than mere in- 
 teresting reading; they may serve as ex- 
 amples for occasions which are continually 
 arising in our hotels when traveling dig- 
 nitaries and celebrities are to be enter- 
 tained, and they show 'that it is not the 
 proper thing then to make the bill of fare 
 twice as long as it usually is made for 
 common use. But to return to the ordi- 
 nary hotel bill : 
 
 THE PLACE FOR THE COLD MEATS. 
 
 Those who wish to find good authority 
 for placing the small side dishes of cucum- 
 bers, celery, etc., after the fish instead of 
 before, with the idea of "something to take 
 away the taste of fish," have excellent pat- 
 terns to follow in the three hotel bills of 
 fare here following. A person having to 
 decide what form to adopt could hardly do 
 
 better than take either the first, which is 
 from the Bates House, Indianapolis, or the 
 third, which has the name of the hotel at- 
 tached. The latter shows another way of 
 putting in those little dishes, "small onions" 
 and "olives" appearing in smaller type 
 after the entrees, while "celery" follows the 
 fish. 
 
 OYSTERS. 
 
 New York Counts 
 
 Mulligatawny 
 
 Consomm^ 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Striped Bass, Madeira Wine Sauce 
 
 Boiled California Salmon, French Pea 
 
 Potato Croquettes 
 
 Spanish Olives 
 
 Sliced Tomatoes 
 
 Olives 
 
 BOILED. 
 
 Fowl, Oyster Sauce 
 Leg of Lamb, Caper Sauce 
 
 ROAST. 
 
 Sirloin of Beef 
 
 Young Turkey with Dressing 
 Cranberry Sauce 
 
 ENTREES. 
 Tenderloin of Beef, Larded, Tomato Sauce 
 
 Sweet Breads, Braised, Mushrooms 
 
 Banana Fritters, Rum Flavor 
 
 GAME. 
 Roast Pheasant, Bread Sauce 
 
 Mallard Duck, Plum Jelly 
 
 CHAMPAGNE ICE. 
 COLD. 
 
 Celery Salad Mayonnaise of Chicken Lamb 
 
 Smoked Beef Tongue 
 Roast Beef Crab Salad 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes Boded Potatoes 
 
 Steamed Rice 
 
 Cauliflower Stewed Tomatoes Red Slaw 
 
 Jersey Sweet Potatoes Baked 
 
 PASTRY, ETC. 
 
 Oriental Pudding, Steamed, Brandy Sauce 
 
 Lemon Meringue Pie 
 
 Mince Pie Charlotte Russe 
 
 Almond Macaroons Fancy Assorted Cake 
 
 VANILLA ICE CREAM. 
 
 Raisins Mixed Xuts Figs 
 
 Fruit in Season 
 
 Edam and Xew York Cream Cheese Crackers 
 
 Coffee.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 55 
 
 These trifling variations show how bills 
 may differ without being wrong in ar- 
 rangement. The middle one of these three 
 bills of fare is from the Sherwood, a fash- 
 ionable hotel in New York; it shows cu- 
 cumbers after the fish, not because that is 
 the place chosen for the cold hors d 'ceuvres, 
 as some of them appear lower down under 
 the head of "mayonnaise," but for the rea- 
 son that it is proper, according to French 
 ways, to serve cucumbers with fish. But 
 suppose one has an antipathy and cannot eat 
 sliced cucumbers with the French, is it not 
 equally proper to eat sliced tomatoes with 
 the Americans? And if both cucumbers 
 and tomatoes are proper why not celery, 
 also, and olives? The inquiring reader is 
 to remember that these momentous ques- 
 tions can never be definitely settled never 
 so long as the world stands, but there may 
 come a moment sometime in the midst of 
 a heated debate when he will thank us for 
 giving him this argument and the Sher- 
 wood bill of fare, which illustrates it. 
 
 Tuesday, March i, l8&j. 
 
 Blue Point Oysters on Half Shell 
 
 SOUP. 
 
 Chicken with okra Consomme 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Boiled Halibut, anchovy sauce 
 
 Cncumbers Potatoet 
 
 BOILED. 
 
 Corned Beef and Cabbage 
 
 REMOVES. 
 Ribs of Beef Chicken Leg of Mutton 
 
 Cold Meats, Etc. 
 MAYONNAISE. 
 
 Chicken Fetticus Lobster Lettuce 
 
 Tomato Cold Slaw 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 Fillet of Beef, sauce Be'arnaise 
 Calf's Feet a la Poulette 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Macaroni a la Milanaise Bermuda Potatoes 
 
 Rice Tomatoes Oyster Plant, fried 
 
 Mashed Turnips Cream Spinach 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 Boiled Apple Dumpling, brandy sauce 
 Peach Pie Charlotte Russe Assorted Cakes 
 
 Orange Water Ice Vanilla Ice Cream 
 FRUITS NUTS CHEESE COFFEE 
 
 An extra charge will be made for dishes ordered not on the 
 bill of fare. 
 
 DINNER FROM 6 TO 7.30. 
 
 SoUP. 
 
 Green Sea Turtle, a 1'Anglaise Consomme Royal 
 FISH. 
 
 Baked Florida Trout, aux Fines Herbes 
 Celery Potato Croquette* 
 
 BOILED. 
 
 Corned Beef and Cabbage 
 Leg of Southdown Mutton, Caper Sauce 
 
 ROAST. 
 
 Ribs of New York Beef, with Yorkshire Pudding 
 
 Sirloin of Beef, with Browned Potatoes 
 
 Young Chicken, Stuffed, Giblet Sauce 
 
 Sugar Cured Ham, Sherry Sauce 
 
 ENTREES. 
 Tenderloin of Beef, Saute, with Mushrooms 
 
 Calf's Head, a la Toulouse 
 
 Apple Fritters, Glace au Rum 
 
 Olives Small Onion 
 
 COLD DISHES. 
 Roast Beef Ham Corned Beef Shrimp Salad 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Boiled Potatoes Mashed Potatoes 
 
 Carolina Rice Stewed Tomatoes 
 
 Sweet Potatoes Extra Sifted Peas 
 
 Vegetable Oyster Plant, Cream Sauce 
 
 Asparagus. 
 
 PASTRY AND DESSERT. 
 Fruit Cake, Glace au Rum Lady Fingers 
 
 Almond Macaroons 
 Meringues, a la Parisienne Peach Pie 
 
 Vanilla Custard, au Meringue 
 
 Steamed Cabinet Pudding, Claret Sauce 
 
 Ice Cream, au Muscat 
 
 FRUITS. 
 
 Edam and Cream Cheese Wafers French Coffee 
 
 Japan and Gunpowder Tea 
 Sweet Milk Butter Milk 
 
 KIMBALL HOUSE, Jan. 9, 1887. 
 
 But the real object of introducing these 
 examples is to show the best place to locate 
 the cold meats, that is at the end of all the 
 other meats ; if entrees are the last let cold 
 meats follow them, if game appears after 
 the entrees let cold meat come after the 
 game. The Fifth Avenue and the Sher- 
 wood have them higher up, and they do 
 not look so well up there dividing the hot 
 meats. That is about all the argument 
 there is in the case, for this division is the 
 b&te noir of the tasty bill of fare writer. 
 The majority of hotel caterers try very 
 hard indeed to twist their table d'hote bill 
 into the shape of the French course dinner 
 bill, with its sorbet or punch in the middle 
 and its game after the punch and salad 
 after the game ; and they manage that far 
 very well, but when the cold meats di- 
 vision has to come in they are at a loss ;
 
 56 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 the Parisian course dinner has no cold 
 meats division so they have no guide. But 
 the hotel customers don't care a fig about 
 that, and want cold meats just the same. 
 As caterers to the tastes of hotel patrons 
 we have but little concern with their mo- 
 tives, but we know from experience that 
 no matter what the hot meats may be some 
 few out of a number always call for the 
 cold cuts. It may be that at the mid-day 
 dinner some people restrict themselves to. 
 selecting only a lunch, taking their hot 
 meal at supper time, or, at evening dinner 
 some people allow themselves only a light 
 supper, letting all the rich and savory hot 
 dishes severely alone at that time of day or 
 night. The "cold meats" division, therefore, 
 has to be tolerated; the only thing to be 
 done is to fill it with but few items, and 
 one or more should be of the rich and or- 
 namental sort aspics, mayonaises, boar's 
 head, galantines, raised pates. The inquir- 
 ing reader should note in these examples 
 the two different ways of placing the date: 
 with and without the day of the week; at 
 top and at lower left-hand corner; and the 
 subsidiary lines, and also that all three 
 have headings to the different divisions, 
 and at the same time make no mention of 
 "relishes." Attention is also directed to 
 the example of two New York hotel bills 
 the Sherwood here and Victoria in a 
 previous article of this series in serving 
 macaroni and spaghetti as a vegetable, or 
 with the vegetables ; that is not an over- 
 sight, misfit or mistake, but all those dishes 
 are properly classed as entremets by those 
 who wish to have things that way ; so are 
 puddings. 
 
 CURRENT CRITICISMS. 
 
 In one respect, at least, the writer of 
 these lines has always been misunderstood 
 by some readers. He has never denied 
 that the French are the leaders of the 
 fashions in dining as well as in other 
 things, but has denied that French fashions 
 are applicable to American hotel dinners. 
 He has never denied that the French know 
 more about cooking, taking them as a 
 
 people, than any other people; but has 
 always contended, and contends yet, that 
 to adopt strictly French cooking in an 
 American hotel would drive most of the 
 customers away. This is not supposition, 
 but observation and experience. The 
 French cooks themselves make the same 
 observations and go back to France in dis- 
 gust, complaining of a lack of appreciation, 
 or else, if they stay here, they change their 
 ways somewhat to suit our people. 
 
 But yet, if some amongst our ho r -;l pat- 
 rons will follow French fashions and dine 
 upon fashionable dishes in fashionable for- 
 mality we, as hotel caterers, are required 
 to understand the subject with all the whys 
 and wherefores, and for that reason these 
 different samples of bills of fare are pre- 
 sented, showing different forms; only pres- 
 sing one line of opinion, viz: that while 
 French cooking and French ways are the 
 very best for the French, we need a little 
 different system, because we are a different 
 people and do not like the same things in 
 the same ways as they do. The real point 
 of contention, and where the writer may 
 possibly appear to be eccentric, if not or- 
 iginal, is in this: that while most of the 
 fine writers and would-be gastronomical 
 educators say, " But you ought to do thus 
 and so because the French do so," the argu- 
 ment of these articles has always been : let 
 the French go their ways ; few of us like 
 their oil, their garlic, their glaze, their 
 espagnole, their nutmeg (in meats and 
 potatoes), their herbs, their thin soups, 
 their anchovies, their snails, their many 
 things, and we cannot help these likes and 
 dislikes in food. The French say we can 
 not have good cooking unless we employ 
 French cooks at their own prices, but we 
 will say we will educate our own cooks 
 and see what French, Italian, German and 
 Spanish cooks know, that we want; and 
 will adopt so much of their knowledge as 
 is applicable to our own people, and leave 
 the rest. The above is partly in answer to 
 criticisms. There are some partisans who 
 are disappointed when there is not a fight, 
 and they look for a running down and de-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 57 
 
 preciation of every French form only 
 because it is French, and because they 
 do not understand it. That would be 
 extremely ridiculous. The object of 
 these writings is to show the meaning 
 and the merits of other people's fashions 
 that we may hold fast that which is good 
 and agreeable, and leave the remainder for 
 them that like them, although we do not 
 like them ourselves. If it were necessary 
 to adopt some other country's fashion for 
 a model the Italian bill of fare would come 
 nearer to our predictions than the French. 
 It is from the Italians we get Our "sweet 
 entrees;" our favorite "fritter" is thefritto 
 of the Italian bill of fare, an indispensable 
 course in every Italian dinner. The best 
 known names among the noted cooks and 
 caterers of New York are Italians; the 
 fancy cake and confectionary business of 
 London is largely in the hands of Italians 
 it is almost given up to them ; and it does 
 not follow that because they are excellent 
 in some branches of the art we should 
 make our bill of fare all of the Italian pat- 
 tern, nor made up all of Italian dishes any 
 more than French, although a steward, 
 having to provide for the entertainment of 
 a distinguished party of Italians, may be 
 very glad to have the following example 
 for a guide. 
 
 The following is the bill of fare of a 
 dinner of a national character, prepared for 
 Italians by an Italian, and it helps to ex- 
 plain why some of our American hotel 
 bills of fare are formed as they are; 
 it is the mixture of Italian with French 
 ways. The employment of fine Italian 
 cooks in many hotels causes the bills of 
 fare of such hotels to be really Italian in 
 form, and therefore seem to be wrong 
 when compared with French patterns, and 
 hence some of the apparent confusion, and 
 hence another argument in favor of adopt- 
 ing a distinctly American bill of fare: 
 
 A REPRESENTATIVE ITALIAN BILL OF 
 FARE. 
 
 Banquet to Signer Salvini, given by the 
 Italian Colony in London, at the Panton 
 
 Hotel (proprietor, Mr. R. Pratti). Covers 
 laid for fifty. Dining room profusely de- 
 corated with flowers and with Italian and 
 English flags. 
 
 MENU: 
 
 Ostriche Native. 
 
 ANTIPASTO. 
 
 Caviale, Sardine, Salame, Tonno, Selleri, etc. 
 
 ZUPPA. 
 Ravioli al Brodo. Risotto con TartuflL 
 
 FRIT TO. 
 Frittura Mista. 
 
 PESCE. 
 
 Salmone Bellito, Salsa alia Genovese 
 e Salsa Hollandese. 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 Polio Saute alia Salvini. " 
 Animelle di Vitello alia Minuta con Tartuffi. 
 
 PUNCH ALLA ROMANA. 
 
 Asparag-i alia Milanese. 
 Aspic d'Aragosta alia Garibaldi. 
 
 ROSTO. 
 
 Agnello allo Spiedo. 
 
 Insalata assortitia. 
 
 SELVAG1UME. 
 
 Quay-lie rostite. 
 
 DOLCE. 
 
 Zabbaglione. 
 
 Ananas all' Orientale. 
 
 Croccante di Amandole. 
 
 Gelati alia Napolitana. 
 
 Gateau alia Vanille. 
 Petits bouffles all' Indiana. 
 
 DESSERT ASSORTITO. 
 
 Caffe e Liquori. 
 
 V1NI. 
 
 Sauterne. 
 Chianti. Barolo. 
 
 The first dish above named is not ostrich, 
 but oysters English "natives," raw, of 
 course, and it is very rarely that a French 
 menu is formed that way, for the cold hors 
 d'ceuvres here follow the oysters under an- 
 other heading; the Italians call them anti- 
 pasto, and regard them as much a neces- 
 sary part of a good dinner as the soup or 
 fish. After them the soup, and after the 
 soup the hot hors d'ceuvre, which Italians 
 call \hefritto. After that the fish with 
 two sauces but no potatoes, the fancy form 
 of potatoes with fish seeming, therefore,
 
 58 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 not to be an Italian fashion. After the 
 fish comes the entrees, just as seen in so 
 many New York bills, and after them the 
 punch, which is according to French fash- 
 ion as well. The cold dishes following the 
 punch js just like some New York bills of 
 fare and still more are the two next di- 
 visions where there are roast lamb and 
 assorted salads in the same place as the 
 French roti and salade would be, but is dif- 
 ferent in having still another "game" di- 
 vision for the roast quail. All the rest are 
 sweets and wines. 
 
 THE DINNER IN COURSES. 
 
 Perhaps a better illustration of the form 
 of making up an American-French course 
 dinner could not be found than the annexed 
 novelty, which turns up at the right time 
 to verify the foregoing statements. The 
 principal difference betwixt this and the 
 table d^hote form is that nobody can choose 
 which dish they will take and which they 
 will pass by in the course dinner, but each 
 one is served the same, while at table d : 'fiote 
 each individual may choose one thing or 
 twenty, at discretion. This was an annual 
 dinner of an association of traveling men 
 held at the Metropolitan Hotel, New York. 
 The menu is written in imitation of a 
 railroad ticket, with coupon attachments, 
 and must be read from bottom to top, the 
 first coupon to be torn off being the first 
 course, of which there are ten in all from 
 Drawing Room to Oysters ; from Oysters 
 to Soup; from Soup to Hors d'oeuvre; 
 Hors d'ceuvre to Fish (with potatoes and 
 cucumbers); from Fish to Releve; from 
 Releve to Entrees; from Entrees to Punch; 
 from Punch to Roast and Salads; from 
 Roast to Pastry and Creams; from Pastry 
 to Fruit, Cheese, Coffee and Liqueurs. It 
 will be noted that the wines appear with 
 the dishes. "Old Reserve" is sherry with 
 the soup. The aptness of the quotation 
 under the hot hors d'aeuvre consists in the 
 word mouthful, bouchee means mouthful. 
 This is termed an American- French menu 
 because it has Blue Points, Diamond-back 
 Terrapin, Kennebec Salmon, Red-head 
 
 Duck ("dear," too) and a good deal ol 
 French language. But it is a good pattern: 
 
 CAFE AND COGNAC TO A FLOW OF SOUL. 
 
 "Serenely foil the epicure would say 
 Fate cannot harm me, I have dined to-day." 
 
 Sidney Smith. 
 "And all the people said 'Amr.' " 
 
 ENTREMETS TO FRUITS. 
 
 Fromage, Cafe, Cognac and Liqueurs 
 
 'Spirits, which by mine art I have from their confines call'd 
 
 to enact 
 Hy present fancies." 
 
 "Tempest," Act IV, Scene L 
 
 ROTI TO ENTREMETS. 
 
 Pudding- a la Reine au Cognac 
 
 Jelly au Champagne 
 Bombes a la Windsor Petits Fours. 
 
 "I will make an en J of my dinner, there's pippins and cheeM 
 to come." 
 
 "Merry Wives of Windsor," Act I, Scene U. 
 
 PUNCH TO ROTI. 
 
 Red-Head Duck Lettuce 
 
 Chambertin 
 
 "O, dainty dock! O, dear!" 
 "Midsummer Night's Dream," Act T, Seen* 1 
 
 ENTREES TO SORBET. 
 
 Punch au Kirsch 
 
 "Is it a party in the parlor! 
 Crammed just as they on earth were crammed. 
 Some sipping punch." 
 Wordsworth's "Peter Bell" (Suppressed passage). 
 
 RELEVE TO ENTREES. 
 
 Supreme of Chicken, a 1'Imperial 
 
 Petit Pois Francaises 
 
 Diamond -Back Terrapin a la Maryland 
 
 Champagne 
 
 This lapwing runs away with the shell on her head." 
 
 "Hamlet," Act V, Scene U. 
 
 POISSON TO RELEVE. 
 
 Filet de Bceuf pique aux Truffes 
 Haricots Verts La Rose 
 
 "If you give me any conserves, give me conserve of beef." 
 
 "Taming of The Shrew" (Introduction). 
 
 HORS D'CEUVRE TO POISSON. 
 
 Kennebec Salmon a la Hollandaise 
 
 Concombres Pommes, Paristone 
 
 Haut Sauterne 
 
 "She, that in wisdom never were M frail, 
 
 To change the cod's head for the salmon's tail." 
 
 "Othello," Act U, Seen* li.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 POT AGE TO HORS D'CBUVRE. 
 
 Petites Bouche'es a la Montglas. 
 
 " plys and tumbles, driving the poor fry before him, 
 and at last devours them all at a mouthful. ' 
 
 "Pericles," Act II, Scene i. 
 
 HUITRES TO POTAGE. 
 
 Cream of Celery aux Croutons 
 
 Consomme, Colbert Royal 
 
 Old Reserve 
 
 "Mingles with the friendlr bowl, 
 
 The feast of reason and the now of soul." 
 
 Pope's "Imitation of Horace.' 
 
 SALON TO HUITRES. 
 
 Blue Points 
 
 "The banquet waits our presence, festal Joy 
 Laughs in the mantling goblet, and the night 
 Illumin'd by the taper's dazzling beam, 
 Rivals departed day." 
 
 Brown's "Barbarossa. 1 
 
 Another good example of the course 
 dinner, right side up, is that Parisian menu, 
 printed in a former article, of the Stanley 
 Club; incomplete, however, in not naming 
 vegetables. 
 
 Complimentary banquet tendered to the 
 New England Grocers at the Grand Cen- 
 tral Hotel, New York, Tuesday afternoon, 
 Nov. ist, at 2 o'clock: 
 
 Blue Point Oysters on the half shell 
 
 SOUP 
 Green Turtle 
 
 FISH 
 
 Filet de Sole au gratin i 1'Italienne 
 Potatoes Brabant 
 
 RELEVE 
 
 Filet of Beef pique a la Bordelaise 
 Potatoes Parisiennes Cream Spinach 
 
 ENTREE 
 
 Chicken Croquettes la Toulouse 
 String- Beans 
 
 ROAST 
 
 Stuffed Turkey, Cranberry Sauct 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes 
 
 PUNCH 
 Punch a. la Romaine 
 
 GAME 
 
 Roast Partridge 
 Celery Mayonnaise 
 
 PASTRY 
 English Plum Puddirg, Hard and Brandy Sauce 
 
 Vanilla Ice Cream 
 
 Mixed Cakes Apple Pie 
 
 Pumpkin Pie 
 
 DESSERT 
 
 Nuts and Raisins Ice Cream 
 
 Roquefort Cheese Bent's Biscuits 
 
 Fruit Coffee 
 
 For a good practical exa/ 
 in courses the preceding may be . 
 is open to criticism on some points, suci. 
 using the French spelling of filet instead 
 of English fillet, and in another respect, 
 perhaps not worth naming, but it happily 
 adapts American favorite dishes, such as 
 roast turkey and sweet potatoes, to the uses 
 of an unfamiliar form of service. It is to 
 be observed that in a course dinner each 
 dish of meat and game, as well as fish, has 
 its own vegetable accompaniment, and the 
 vegetables are not to be bunched together 
 as they are in the table d'hote bill of fare. 
 
 THE SORBET OR PUNCH. 
 
 There is a growing desire among pro- 
 prietors and stewards, who endeavor to set 
 the best tables, to adopt the punch, which 
 appears in the middle of the French course 
 dinner bill, between entree and game. The 
 example may be noted in several of the 
 bills of fare shown in preceding articles, 
 and the usually selected place for it is there 
 seen, likewise. It is no longer always Ro- 
 man punch, nor frozen punch, but after all 
 these have had a run some stewards have 
 taken to serving champagne cup, claret 
 cup, Balaklava cup, and all the punches 
 with fine names which can be found in the 
 "barkeepers' guides." Some of these are 
 poured from pitchers or decanters into the 
 guest's glass that is already set upon the 
 table. The various frozen punches which 
 are never quite solidly frozen should be 
 served in deep punch glasses, cup shaped, 
 with handles. 
 
 There is a strong argument against the 
 serving of punch gratis, however, in that 
 it tends to lessen the sale of wine and 
 bottled ale and beer, which some hotel 
 keepers find a source of profit equal at least 
 to the cigar stand, which in many houses 
 is sufficient to pay the rent. It is argued 
 that to give the diner a glass of rum punch 
 with his dinner takes away his desire to 
 order anything from the bar, and where 
 the addition of wine to the dinner is offered 
 as an advertisement, to introduce a sorbet 
 or punch would be injudicious.
 
 GO 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 'THOSE EVERLASTING RELISHES." 
 
 This is a minority report. There is al- 
 most always a minority that disagrees; 
 somtimes the minority is called a respect- 
 able one, and it is allowed to present a re- 
 port even after the question has been de- 
 cided against it. It is decidedly in bad 
 taste to include "Relishes," with big black 
 letters, as a heading in a bill of fare, and 
 being in bad taste it is wrong, and is so 
 acknowledged by nearly all, for the finest 
 Sunday bills and Christmas and New 
 Years bills, which are sent out for show, 
 seldom include any "relishes"; yet a mi- 
 nority of those who send them out put 
 "relishes" on their bills the very next day, 
 and every day, for the home folks and for 
 that class of travelers that wants a large 
 and plentiful-looking bill for so much a 
 meal. A part of this minority runs "re- 
 lishes" in order to encourage manufactur- 
 ers of table .delicacies, inventors of new 
 table sauces, importers of foreign novelties, 
 purveyors of pure oils, the makers of all 
 that glittering array of finely bottled and 
 artistically labeled goods which makes the 
 shelves cf the dealers in fancy groceries 
 the handsomest display in the city; and, as 
 there is no limit to the enterprise of some 
 hotel keepers and stewards, who make the 
 excellence of their table the pride of their 
 life, they constantly look over the columns 
 of their hotel papers to see what new oils, 
 catsups, soys, chutneys, salad dressings, 
 fish sauces, flavored vinegars, or whatever 
 else have lately come into use and fashion, 
 and to find the places to buy them. Others 
 still, belonging to the minority, grow very 
 tired of catering to people who are not, in 
 the mass, gastronomically educated, and 
 they try to educate their customers to a 
 point beyond Worcestershire sauce by 
 placing on their tables such things as mush- 
 room and walnut catsups, Uengal and 
 Madras chutneys, chili-colorado, Tabasco 
 sauce, anchovy essence, Harvey's sauce, 
 India soy, tarragon vinegar, and com- 
 pounds of that class to the number of about 
 fifty, in turn, and when they find the bottles 
 
 remain untouched, or scarcely a bottle 
 used up in a year, because these are such 
 mysterious things, they put the names of 
 such "relishes" on their bill of fare, know- 
 ing that as everybody has read about 
 everything in this land of newspapers, their 
 boarders and visitors will thus be led to 
 appreciate the provision made for their 
 more luxurious dining. 
 
 The fight against "relishes" in the bill of 
 fare has never been made against the re- 
 finement of the table, however, but was, 
 and is still, directed against the silly "pad- 
 ding out" of the bill to make it look big 
 and plentiful, though there is nothing in it; 
 against such parades as used to be met 
 with often, as : " Plain Pickles, Mixed 
 Pickles, Stuffed Pickles, Spiced Pickles, 
 Cucumber Pickles, Sharp & Soursauce's 
 Celebrated Piccalilli," which would all 
 be strung out in one bill, followed by 
 "Plain Mustard, French Mustard," and a 
 lot more such stuff, and this brought the 
 whole department of relishes into disrepute. 
 In this connection it must be noted again, 
 and still on the side of the minority, that 
 recent innovations in setting the table have 
 done away with the chance of the guests 
 seeing what they want when the bill of fare 
 does not mention it. The best of the first- 
 class hotels now have no cruet-stands on 
 the tables, but, instead, a small regiment 
 of tiny ornamental vases, decanters, jugs, 
 pitchers, amphorce, ampullce, of china such 
 things as are found on the ornamental 
 shelves and in the show-windows of the 
 dealers in hotel china; these hold the va- 
 rious accessories of condiments and relishes, 
 and yet give no outward token of their 
 contents; the guest cannot be fure that 
 even his familiar Worcestershire sauce and 
 tomato catsup are there until he gets 
 acquainted; he must either learn them 
 from daily use, or ask the waiter, or come 
 and go in ignorance of the fact that the 
 thing wished for was so near, or else the 
 bill of fare must tell him. There is no 
 need of a heading for "Relishes" to tell 
 this ; one line across the bill might be In- 
 troduced to tell all that is worth telling.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 61 
 
 The line might be in smaller type than the 
 main body of the bill, as has been shown 
 in several bills printed on preceding pages. 
 
 SPECIMEN IRISH BILL OF FARE. 
 
 Thi* specimen banquet bill from Ireland 
 is very much like an American bill, and 
 remarkable for being in plain English. 
 There are too many kinds of meat for any 
 use, as if they had learned that bad habit 
 from our hotels, and it does not regard the 
 vegetables worth naming; but the vege- 
 tables over there are said to be poor and 
 scanty not like ours: 
 
 Banquet given by the Mayor of London- 
 derry (Sir R. McVicker, J, P.) to the Hon- 
 ourable the Irish Society. The dinner was 
 provided by Mr. James Johnston, a well- 
 known local caterer, and served in Corpo- 
 ration Hall: 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 Clear Turtle, a la Reine. 
 Green Pea 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Turbot Lobster Sauce 
 
 Salmon Parsley and Butter. 
 
 Fillets of Soles, a la Maitre d'Hotel. 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 Lobster Cutlets. Lamb Cutlets and Peas. 
 Sweetbreads Mushroom Sauce. 
 Veal Cutlets Cucumber Sauce. 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 Roast Chicken Roast Turkey Poults. 
 
 Roast Beef . Roast Haunches Mutton. Roast Lamb. 
 
 Boiled Chicken. Green Goose. 
 
 Hams. Tongues. 
 
 Grouse Lobster Salad. 
 
 ENTREMETS. 
 
 Marmalade Pudding. Fig Puddings. 
 
 Sultana Pudding. Jellies. Victoria Cream. 
 
 Apple and Greengage Tarts. 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 Pineapples, Grapes, Greengages, Melons, Apples, 
 Pears, Plums, etc. 
 
 ICES. 
 Lemon Water and Strawberry Cream. 
 
 SPECIMEN ENGLISH COMMERCIAL HOTEL 
 BILL. 
 
 Somebody in an English city has opened 
 a hotel specially for the commercial trav- 
 elers' trade (doesn't say whether "sample 
 rooms on the first floor," or "the best in 
 
 town"), and this is one of the bills of fare 
 of the dinner served at fifty cents: 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 Mock Turtle, Julienne, Vermicelli. 
 
 FISH. 
 Salmon, Halibnt, Stewed Eels. 
 
 JOINTS. 
 
 Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding, 
 
 Boiled Leg Lamb, Ducklings, Spring Chickens, 
 
 Pigeon Pies. 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 Curried Rabbit, Fricasses of Chicken, 
 Lamb Cutlets, Beef a la mode. 
 
 LEGUMES. 
 Potatoes, Peas, Spinach, Beans, Vegetable Marrow. 
 
 ENTREMETS. 
 
 Iced Venice Pudding, 
 
 Raspberry and Red Currant Tart, 
 
 Pineapple Fritters, Black Currant Pudding. 
 
 CHEESE. 
 
 Gruyere, Wensleydale, Cheddar. 
 SALAD. 
 
 Cheese and salad are expected to create 
 a demand for ale and beer or hot cups of 
 some kind. 
 
 HOW MANY DISHES? 
 
 A glance over a number of hotel bills of 
 fare of the same date will show that a great 
 difference of opinion exists on this point, 
 even to go no farther than New York, for 
 the makers of the bill of one large and 
 wealthy establishment think it worth while 
 to enumerate every kind of nuts and such 
 small items, as well as all the sorts of cold 
 meats besides a long list of entrees, while 
 another presents only about one-third as 
 many, and there is no reason to suppose 
 that ideas of frugality form the leading mo- 
 tive for the smaller display. But there is 
 no doubt that it requires "more nerve" in 
 a man to set out a small bill of fare while 
 expecting to compete with another house 
 displaying a very voluminous one, on ac- 
 count the constitution of the general pub- 
 lic, which is apt to look for quantity first, 
 and the obtaining of a large amount for its 
 money. The advocates for a fewer num- 
 ber of dishes properly claim that it is in 
 better taste and that a small number of 
 viands can be better cooked and served 
 than the interminable list of things pro-
 
 62 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 mised by some bills, and that a freshness 
 in the daily change of dishes is attainable 
 with a small list that is not possible when 
 everything appears in the bill at once, day 
 after day. It used to be urged in favor of 
 the long lists of the great hotels, especially 
 of the seaport cities, that they offered in 
 their great variety something to suit the 
 national taste of every foreign visitor ; that 
 the cooking was of a cosmopolitan char- 
 acter and each guest could select from the 
 abundance offered to suit himself, not be- 
 ing restricted to the limited offerings of 
 fare provided for the provincial customer 
 But of late years it has become a feature 
 of the business for every large hotel to 
 have a restaurant attached, some have two, 
 called respectively restaurant and cafe, so 
 that whoever is not fully satisfied with the 
 hotel table can indulge his particular habits 
 and fancies at one of these. The sound 
 policy in regard to this question, as in 
 many others, lies in the adoption of the 
 golden mean, though some hotel men like 
 to run to extremes. One says: "If I must 
 provide forty pounds of meat I may as 
 well have ten different kinds of four pounds 
 each as to have but two of twenty pounds 
 each, and in the same way he says it is as 
 easy to have a little of ten different vege- 
 tables as to have much of only two kinds, 
 and the six pies may as well be of six dif- 
 ferent sorts as to be all of one; then every- 
 body can have what they like best and it 
 makes no difference to me." But that old 
 argument is fallacious. There is just 
 enough truth in it to warrant a reasonable 
 variety in the dinner, but, in fact, the ex- 
 pensiveness of a meal increases according 
 to the increase of the number of different 
 items ; there is a certain inevitable waste in 
 every separate operation in cooking; a 
 portion of everything will be left over and 
 lost, instead of a portion of only one or 
 two things, and the more things are offered 
 the more some of the guests will order, if 
 only to "sample" and waste them. 
 
 It is in favor of a reasonable variety in 
 the viands to remember that some kinds 
 must cost less than others, and every order 
 
 made on the cheaper dish lessens the run 
 upon the dearer one, and, again, it often 
 happens that the cooking capacity of a 
 place is not sufficient to provide enough of 
 the one or two articles and half a dozen 
 more of other sorts must come in to divide 
 the calls; the same reasons obtain when 
 the favorite article cannot be procured in 
 sufficient quantity to stand all the pressure 
 alone, then it has to be offset with some- 
 thing else almost equally in demand. 
 These considerations, and others like them, 
 have far more weight with those practically 
 engaged in the preparation of the meals 
 than any ideas of whether a greater or less 
 display is in the better taste. 
 
 ONE SOUP OR TWO? 
 
 The soup question is one, again, of "gas- 
 tronomical education." The general pub- 
 lic, as we know it by hotel contact, de- 
 mands thick soup, and all thin soups, clear 
 soups, consommes, are repelled as insults 
 to a good appetite, as signs of stinginess, 
 as "dishwater." But writers like Sir Henry 
 Thompson, author of "Food and Feeding," 
 are opposed to thick soups, especially to 
 cream soups, at least as preliminary to a 
 dinner, because they take the appetite away. 
 And yet thick soups are very good indeed, 
 and among the best things which the best 
 cooks can produce, and the cream soups 
 are the prime favorites ; it is not the soup, 
 but the proper use of it which should be 
 considered. An impecunious or frugal- 
 minded man with fifteen cents in his 
 pocket may step into a Chicago restaurant 
 in the proper season and obtain for that 
 sum a bowl of genuine turtle soup, of more 
 than a pint, thick with meat, and a plate of 
 bread accompanying it, and of that he 
 makes a meal, a good wholesome meal, 
 and walks out unburdened by over-feeding 
 and in good trim for business or labor. 
 But if, after the soup, even though in small 
 quantity, he should seriously set himself to 
 consume his share of a complete hotel din- 
 ner he would do himself an injury, and if 
 the dinner were his primary object he should 
 take only a thin soup, the thinner the better.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 63 
 
 The human stomach will hold but a 
 quart of semi-solid food, but liquids are ab- 
 sorbed and out of the way immediately. 
 Doctor Andrew Coombe, himself a victim 
 of hereditary dyspepsia, some forty years 
 ago went to a French watering-place to 
 study the subject of the "Stomach and its 
 Difficulties," and seeing how some patients 
 would drink as much as ten pints of spring 
 water before breakfast and then without 
 any diminution of appetite would straight- 
 way go and eat a full meal, understood 
 that the water was immediately absorbed 
 through the coats of the stomach and did 
 not interfere with its capacity to hold solid 
 food. People who are gastronomically 
 educated act upon such knowledge, and 
 take only a small quantity of clear soup or 
 consomme, which is sufficiently thin to be 
 soon absorbed, as a preparation of the 
 stomach for a full meal to follow, or else, 
 if they take a thick soup, they make a meal 
 of that, at least in part. The hotel table, 
 well provided, offers two soups, a thick 
 and a thin one, and the diners choose as 
 they please. The mistaken notion should 
 not be entertained, however, that the thin 
 soup is cheap; as it is made by the best 
 cooks it is quite expensive, partly because 
 it is a strong essence of meat, a sort of 
 beef tea with all solid particles removed 
 from it, and partly because of the large 
 amount of white eggs wasted in clarifying 
 it to that very transparent and brandy-like 
 thinness which so many of our patrons 
 condemn it for. And, again, when there 
 is no particular need of adding to the num- 
 ber of dishes merely for style, one soup is 
 sufficient, and that should be a thick one, 
 as the hotel table will gain the more credit 
 for it. But hotel providers often run to 
 extremes in this line, also, and serve abom- 
 inable mixtures as thick as porridge, 
 messes that can be taken up on a knife 
 point. That is not what is meant by 
 thick soups so much as is having soups 
 with something in them ; neatly cut pieces 
 of meat or vegetables, of clams and po- 
 tatoes, of fried crusts or sippets; not pjr- 
 ridgp, but soups with morsels to be found 
 
 with the spoon and enjoyed because the 
 appetite is then fresh and keen. That is 
 the motive as well with clear soups, the 
 consomme with green peas or asparagus 
 tips. If the soup is worth serving at all, 
 there should be at least a third of a plate- 
 ful, if not half; let the people leave a little 
 if they will, but the mere spoonful that just 
 covers the plate, as served in some places, 
 affords no satisfaction to anybody, not even 
 to the cook, who knows that there is not 
 enough in such a portion to allow his 
 efforts at a skillfull combination to be 
 appreciated. But, of course, if your soup 
 is bad the less you serve the better. 
 
 HOW MANY KINDS OF FISH? 
 
 Probably, in pursuance of a desire to 
 please everybody, it would be best to have 
 two kinds of fish, as a baked and a boiled ; 
 a fish in fillets with tomato or Spanish 
 sauce, and another whole with only the 
 simple melted butter. Ordinarily, it must 
 be allowed, one kind is enough, while yet 
 there are fishing resorts and other places 
 peculiarly situated where several dishes of 
 fish have to be offered daily. When serv- 
 ing fish as only a part of the hotel regular 
 dinner two-ounce portions are enough un- 
 less some person wishes to pass the middle 
 or latter courses of the dinner by and re- 
 quests a full order. 
 
 HOW MANY ENTREES? 
 
 While, very often, it is a difficult matter 
 to find materials to make a given number 
 of entrees or made dishes every day, and 
 cooks are glad to run in very common and 
 useless dishes merely to fill up the list, still 
 at other times a number of small meats 
 and remainders of poultry and game are left 
 on hand that will make excellent dishes 
 for this list, but could not be utilized other- 
 wise, so that there are motives of economy 
 as well as excellence of the table in favor 
 of keeping up a medium sized list of en- 
 trees. Three or four entrees each day it 
 about the right number.
 
 64 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 HOW MANY VEGETABLES? 
 
 If a profusion of dishes be excusable 
 anywhere it should be in the line of vege- 
 tables, and every improvement in the 
 methods of cooking them should be en- 
 couraged both from motives of economy 
 and of health. And on general principles 
 the consumption of vegetables should be 
 encouraged, instead of meat, as tending to 
 reduce the cost of living. A wide field for 
 the exercise of the cook's art exists in the 
 richness of our American vegetable pro- 
 ducts, and it has not been worked out as 
 meat and pastry cooking have, but affords 
 plenty of room for new methods to be 
 introduced. There should be six or eight 
 vegetables each day and different ways of 
 cooking some of them introduced almost 
 as often. 
 
 HOW MANY KINDS OF PASTRY? 
 
 The exti aordinary fondness of Americans 
 for pie, so often remarked upon, is only 
 apparent, not real. We like the pastry de- 
 partment just as well as any other nation 
 of people does, and no better; the reason 
 why pie appears so prominent is because 
 we call those things pie, which the English 
 and French call by other names, conse- 
 quently we have ten times as many pies 
 (so called) as they have. The English pie 
 has always a top crust ; the things which 
 we call corn-starch pie, lemon pie, custard 
 pie, and the like, they make the same way 
 in a deep dish, with a thin bottom crust of 
 paste, and call them puddings, or, if small, 
 cheesecakes ; and our open fruit pies they 
 call tarts. There is an English cook book 
 that contains recipes for making one thou- 
 sand puddings, but a large proportion of 
 them over here would be called pies; that 
 is how it is we seem to be the only pie-eat- 
 ing nation. For mere good living one 
 kind of pudding or pie is sufficient, but 
 from motives of policy the hotel table 
 should be provided with two kinds, per- 
 haps three that is, a pudding, a covered 
 pie and an open pie and as ornamental 
 considerations have the more weight to- 
 
 wards the end of a dinner, when the appe- 
 tite is not so obtrusive, it is as well to care 
 a little for the contrasts in appearance of 
 the pastry, and let a showy meringue shine 
 along with a dark fruit pie and a red cran- 
 berry along with a white or yellow custard. 
 The universal liking for ice creams, the 
 ease of making them now with the im- 
 proved freezers and universal supply of 
 'ce, and the many varieties of such creams 
 and frozen compounds now generally 
 known, have almost driven out the favorite 
 sweets of years ago. 
 
 CONCLUSIONS AS TO THE AMERICAN 
 DINNER BILL OF FARE. 
 
 Some bills of fare of the best American 
 hotels which appear to be quite wrong in 
 arrangement when compared with French 
 models are quite right according to Italian 
 fashions. Some that are quite wrong ac- 
 cording to the Italians are right according 
 to the French. Those that are right ac- 
 cording to one or both of them are wrong 
 again according to German, or Spanish, or 
 English, or Russ-ian or other fashions. The 
 only way to be right is to adopt an Ameri- 
 can form of bill of fare and count all of 
 them wrong in the degree that they depart 
 from it The conclusions to be drawn 
 from the foregoing examples and com- 
 ments are: 
 
 1. There is a good form of American 
 bill of fare already in use in the great ma- 
 jority of our hotels, but better specimens 
 of it can be had from any part of the United 
 States than from New York City. 
 
 2. It is necessary to have a top heading 
 to the bill, and it is correct and quite op- 
 tional to use either Bill of Fare, Menu, 
 Dinner, or Table d^Hote. 
 
 3. It is best, on account of the strange- 
 ness of strange people in most hotels, to 
 have headings to the divisions of the bill of 
 fare, and nearly all foreign menus, except 
 French fashionable party cards, set the 
 same example; yet, if the hotel does not 
 receive many strangers, headings are not 
 required for regular residents. There is no
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 need of running to the extreme of big 
 black letter headings in one case nor to a 
 confused jumble of di>hes in the other. 
 
 4. American preferences favor the pre- 
 liminary course of raw oysters in the sea- 
 son and clams as a substitute at other 
 times, and most of the cold side dishes. 
 The hot hors d '<zuvre to be eaten after the 
 soup is not an American favorite in tha' 
 place and is not needed. It is found to be 
 most convenient to place the oysters in a 
 separate line preceding the soup and the 
 cold hors d'ceuvres or side dishes after the 
 soup, instead of the superfluous hot mouth- 
 ful or bouchee. 
 
 5. Good foreign sanction can be found 
 for the above arrangement, and equally 
 good authority in the French fashion for 
 placing such side dishes as cucumbers, 
 olives, celery, sliced tomatoes, etc., after 
 the fish instead of after the soup, and some 
 of the best American bills of fare show the 
 preference of many hotel keepers for that 
 arrangement, which is quite an optional 
 matter and immaterial. 
 
 6. The serving of fancy forms of po- 
 tatoes with fish should be adopted as a part 
 of the American fashion. 
 
 7. The solid boiled and roasted meats, 
 which the English put under the heading 
 of "Joints," should be placed in the Amer- 
 ican bill of fare after the fish and before 
 the entrees, because that is the order in 
 which they are generally called for. If 
 high foreign sanction is wanted it can be 
 found in two out of the "three royal ex- 
 amples" given hi a former article, where 
 the roasts come first, and also is the teach- 
 ing of the French gastronomers that the 
 plain and substantial dishes should come 
 first. 
 
 8. When game appears in its season it 
 should be placed in the American bill un- 
 der a separate "game" heading immedi- 
 ately after the roast meats and before the 
 entrees. 
 
 9. The gratuitous sot-bet or punch is an 
 added luxury, but is in a general way detri- 
 mental to the hotel keepers' interests. If 
 wanted in the bill it should be placed after 
 
 the roast meats in the table d'hote arrange- 
 ments of dishes, for if placed lower down 
 it only becomes a preliminary to the pastry, 
 seeing that most people take meats, entrees 
 and vegetables all at one serving, and the 
 punch should go with them or immediately 
 after. This feature is never found in a 
 fashionable English dinner. They have 
 no use for punch anywhere but with turtle 
 soup, unless, perhaps, instead of wine after 
 dinner. 
 
 Making allowance for the slight varia- 
 tion caused by the insertion of "game ; " the 
 annexed, one of chef Theodore Pierrot's 
 Sunday bills, may be taken to show 
 
 A REPRESENTATIVE AMERICAN-PLAN 
 
 BILL OF FARE: 
 
 HOTEL EMERY. 
 
 DINNER. 
 Sunday, March ist, 1885, 
 
 SOUP. 
 Bisque of Oysters Consomm6 Royal 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Filet of Sole a 1'Orly 
 
 Parisienne Potatoes 
 
 Chow Chow Olives 
 
 BOILED. 
 Ham and Cabbage Turkey, Oyster sauce 
 
 ROAST. 
 
 Ribs of Beef 
 
 Young Turkey stuffed, Cranberry Jelly 
 
 ENTREES.- 
 Sweetbreads braized aux petits Pois 
 
 Deviled Crabs, Baltimore style 
 Filet Mjgnon saute, sauce Madeira 
 
 CARDINAL PUNCH. 
 
 GAME. 
 Prairie Chicken en Salmi, sauce Mushrooms 
 
 SALADS. 
 
 Fresh Lettuce Chicken Mayonnaise 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Mashen* Potatoes Boiled Potatoes 
 
 Stewed Tomatoes Green Peas Stuffed Cabbage 
 
 Asparagus, Cream sauce 
 
 PASTRY. 
 Mince P'e Peach Meringue Pie Pumpkin Pie 
 
 Queen Pudding, Wine Cream sauce 
 Apple Dumplings, Family style 
 
 Sago Pudding with Cream sauce 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 Vanilla Ice Cream i harlotte Russe 
 Champagne Wine Jelly 
 
 Assorted Fancy Cake 
 
 Fruits Cheese " Crack'rs 
 
 Coffee
 
 66 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 10. There should be two soups, but not 
 of the same character ; one should be clear, 
 the other thick. 
 
 11. The dishes regularly in a bill of 
 fare should be sufficient in number to give 
 opportunities to use up small quantities of 
 provisions and remnants of good things 
 and to tax the ingenuity of the cooks, but 
 beyond that there should be no lavishness. 
 
 12. Many of the additions to our food 
 known as relishes are real luxuries, and 
 should be named in the bill in a line by 
 themselves without a heading. 
 
 LUNCH AND DINNER OR DINNER AND 
 SUPPER? 
 
 This question comes up whenever any 
 hotel assumes the rank of first-class, and is 
 often a very perplexing one, for a few in- 
 sist that they must dine at about six or 
 seven in the evening or never, and if that 
 hour is adopted a greater number are made 
 uncomfortable by it, for to dine in the 
 middle of the day is natural (according to 
 our national habits); to dine at night is 
 artificial, the habit of the few who retire 
 late at night and rise late in the morning. 
 When the artificialists have their way, and 
 the dinner hour is in the evening, a new 
 contention arises, for then there is a lunch 
 at mid-day, or about one o'clock, which for 
 the hotel keeper's interest ought to be a 
 light and inexpensive meal, a cold repast, 
 but then the plain-mannered people try 
 their best to make their accustomed mid- 
 day dinner out of it, and the hotel caterer 
 is urged to have this thing and that, to the 
 end that they may make a complete meal, 
 and the result is apt to be that the hotel 
 gives two expensive dinners every day in- 
 stead of only one dinner and a light supper, 
 and at last it settles down, in many places 
 where the rates are high enough, to the 
 setting out of four meals a day, or even 
 five: breakfast, lunch, then dinner and 
 supper, both nearly together at from five 
 to seven o'clock, and, in the few places, to 
 having both lunch and mid-day dinner and 
 then late dinner and supper also. This is 
 the state of the case as experience compels 
 
 it, and we have but little to do with people's 
 motives, yet when it is left purely optional 
 with the hotel proprietor there are some 
 arguments in it worth thinking over. It 
 is a positive fact that heavy dinners or sup- 
 pers are very unhealthy for people who go 
 to bed at ordinary hours; the hotel man 
 whose guests and boarders adopt such habits 
 will have a lot of cross and uncomfortable 
 people at breakfast times who cannot enjoy 
 anything and cannot possibly be pleased. 
 Those who eat meat dinners at night 
 should remain up and in activity until 
 twelve at least, and then take a cracker or 
 slice of bread before retiring. But there is 
 a business class of merchants and bankers 
 who have no time for a regular formal 
 dinner in the middle of the day, and a 
 plausible reason in the necessity of the 
 case can be given for them, but in the in- 
 terests of good health and cheerfulness if 
 they are to indulge in the profusion of the 
 hotel dinner they should dine as early as 
 possible from five to six. A majority 
 (but by no means all) of the really first- 
 class hotels serve dinner in the evening, 
 and take pains to publish it in their bill of 
 fare as being the higher fashion, yet those 
 who know all about the business are apt to 
 doubt whether the guests really fare as 
 well as under the other style. It costs 
 more to have dinner at night; it keeps the 
 cooking operations going on all day ; there 
 is no "let up" to hotel work until dinner is 
 over, consequently dinner at night means 
 late work as well as early, and more hands 
 are required for it. Three, if not four, 
 soups are required each day, and the in- 
 ducement is strong to make the soup that 
 is left over from lunch serve also for the 
 evening dinner with only a change of 
 name, and the same with roast meats and 
 ice cream. When the proprietor, manager 
 or steward is determined that the evening 
 dinner shall be all fresh cooked he is care- 
 ful to see that no more is cooked for lunch 
 than will be consumed at once. The con- 
 clusion is that the night dinner is not the 
 best on general principles ; where business 
 considerations compel its adoption there U
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 67 
 
 nothing to be said, but where it is but a 
 matter of choice, as in a great many resort 
 hotels, the proprietor, manager or steward 
 will find it best to lean towards the dinner 
 In the middle of the day. In many cases 
 all parties may be satisfied with the dinner 
 hour at two, half past, or three o'clock, and 
 only a light cold meat and hot bread sup- 
 per afterwards. 
 
 HOW MUCH FOR LUNCH? 
 
 The hotel man, as already observed, will 
 find himself pulling the other way from a 
 great number of his guests who want to 
 make a good square meal out of the one 
 o'clock lunch, and as the waiters and cooks 
 are disposed to be accommodating he may 
 soon find that the lunch is bigger and cost- 
 lier than the evening dinner if he does not 
 act with firmness to keep it down, and with 
 equal firmness to close the doors at the 
 stated time, otherwise the lunch is the 
 longest drawn out and least satisfactory of 
 all meals ; very few people can be satisfied 
 with it in any case. 
 
 This is a very fair example of a lunch 
 bill of fare. It is from a New York hotel. 
 The number of dishes offered is sufficient. 
 Duration, from one to two o'clock: 
 
 LUNCH. 
 
 FROM i TO a. 
 
 SOUP. 
 
 Creme a la Duchesse 
 
 COLD MEATS. 
 
 Turkey Beef Tongue Roast Beef 
 
 HOT DISHKS. 
 
 Salmi of Venison, Champignons 
 Chicken Rissoles 
 
 SALADS. 
 
 Mayonnaise de Volaille Cold Slaw 
 
 Beets Salad a la Russe Potato 
 
 RELISHES. 
 
 Horse Radish Gherkins White Onions 
 Olives Chow-Chow 
 
 PASTRY AND PRESERVES. 
 
 Quince Roll, Lemon Sauce 
 
 Green Gage Plums Cake 
 
 COFFEE TEA 
 
 Dinner from 5 :y> to 8. 
 
 Al Dishes ordered not on Bill of Fare will be 
 charged a la Carte 
 
 TUESDAY, February 3, 1888. 
 
 Peculiar circumstances sometimes cause 
 a deviation from general rules. The writet 
 was once concerned in a place where the 
 lunch was by four or five times a better 
 meal than the evening dinner, both in the 
 number of people and in the dishes served. 
 It was a fine hotel at the end of a railroad 
 which brought daily excursions at half 
 past twelve, too early to have dinner in any 
 first-class hotel, so, lunch it was called, and 
 that being a pleasure resort, with a brass 
 band playing, the lunches were immense, 
 though the dinners were very modest 
 affairs for only a few regulars. 
 
 WHAT SORT OF DISHES FOR LUNCH? 
 
 In the hotel cook books may be found 
 sample lunch bills of fare which show how 
 some hotels serve a number of breakfast 
 dishes, such as hominy and milk, also 
 baked beans, pigs' feet, codfish balls, and 
 various odds and ends to make up a good- 
 sized list. In a general way those dishes 
 may be chosen which, a 1 though good, 
 seem hardly good enough or elaborate 
 enough for a dinner entree; the salmi of 
 venison in the specimen biil of fare shown 
 in a preceding article of this series is an 
 example. There is nothing wrong about 
 it, yet we can but think it was only sliced 
 venison with thin mushroom sauce; one 
 would rather have birds of some kind for a 
 salmi for dinner. Then all the hot hors 
 d'oeuvres, which it is hard to find a place 
 for in the dinner bill, are just right for 
 lunch; the chicken rissoles of the above 
 mentioned bill is an example in point All 
 sorts of salads come in place for lunch, and 
 all sorts of cold ornamental dishes, galan- 
 tines and cold raised pies or f 'Sites. Besides 
 these, the same list to be found further on, 
 of dishes suitable for supper, is equally 
 applicable to the lunch bill of fare. This 
 bill, like the dinner bill, is changed every 
 day, and has to be either printed daily or 
 written. 
 
 The next is an example of the small bill 
 of fare selected for children dining sepa- 
 rately in care of nurses, in a large resort 
 hotel where at least three times as many
 
 68 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 dishes were served in the great dining room 
 an hour later for the adults. 
 
 A number of these bills will be found 
 with lines and reading notices apparently 
 superfluous for the object of these articles, 
 especially the breakfast bills now to follow ; 
 they are given entire, however, to show 
 the usages of good hotels in these respects, 
 purely for information. 
 
 HOTEL SAN MARCO, 
 
 St. Augustine, Fla. 
 
 CHILDREN'S ORDINARY. 
 
 DINNER, 
 SUNDAY, - - APRIL 10, 1887. 
 
 SOUP. 
 Chicken Consommi 
 
 FISH. 
 Boiled bass 
 
 BOILED. 
 
 Mutton 
 
 ROAST. 
 
 Ribs of beef 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 Pineapple fritters Macaroni, a 1'Italienne 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Mashed potatoes Stewed tomatoes 
 
 Baked sweet potatoes 
 
 COLD. 
 
 Tongue Ham Roast Beef 
 Lobster Salad 
 
 PASTRY AND DESSERT. 
 
 Baked Indian pudding 1 
 
 Lime meringue pie Appple pie 
 
 Assorted cake Strawberry ice cream 
 
 Apple sauce 
 Crackers Nuts Raisins 
 
 THE BREAKFAST BILL OF FARE. 
 
 The common custom is to print the 
 breakfast and supper bills in advance, per- 
 haps a thousand at a time, and endeavor to 
 have every dish that is named each morn- 
 ing or else mark it off. Where the hotel 
 keepers and stewards are progressive and 
 the additional expense of printing is not an 
 obstacle a newly corrected bill is printed 
 for every meal and a smaller list is suf- 
 ficient, there always being something fresh 
 to expect. Comparatively few of those 
 
 who have had experience with the dinner 
 bill and its daily changes have had much 
 practice in changing the breakfast and sup- 
 per lists, and many will find it hard to 
 think of new dishes to change with, and 
 for their convenience a list of suitable 
 dishes is given in the pages following these 
 example bills. 
 
 PEABODT HOTEL. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Fruit in Season 
 
 Oat Meal Cracked Wheat Grits 
 
 FISH. Fried or Broiled Fresh Fish 
 
 Boiled or Broiled Salt Mackerel 
 
 BROILED. Mutton Chops 
 
 Sirloin Steak, Plain, with Onions, Tomato or 
 
 Creole Sauce 
 Ham Bacon Calves' Liver Tripe 
 
 FRIED. Veal Cutlets, Breaded Kidneys 
 
 Ham Sirloin Steak, with Brown Gravy 
 
 Calves' Liver, with Salt Pork Corned Beef Hash 
 
 Hamburg Steak Mush Sausage 
 
 STEWED. 
 EGGS. 
 
 Mutton Kidneys 
 
 Tripe 
 
 Fried Boiled Poached 
 
 Shirred Scrambled 
 
 Omelets, Plain, with Parsley, Cheese, 
 
 Onions or Jelly 
 
 COLD. Roast Beef Roast Mutton 
 
 Corned Beef Boiled Ham 
 
 POTATOES. French Fried Stewed in Cream 
 Lyonaise Boiled Saute 
 
 BREADS, ETC. French, Vienna, Cream 
 
 Graham, Corn and Plain Bread 
 French Rolls Graham Muffins Corn Muffins 
 
 Toast Crackers 
 Corn, Wheat and Buckwheat Gnddle Cakes 
 
 Maple White Rock 
 
 New Orleans Molasses 
 
 SYRUP. 
 
 3 
 
 COFFEE CHOCOLATE TEA MILK 
 
 HOURS FOR MEALS. 
 Breakfast, 7-1 J. Dinner, 1-4. Supper, 6-9. 
 
 SUNDAY. 
 Breakfast, 7:30-11. Dinner, 1:30-4. Supper, 6-9. 
 
 CHILDREN AND NURSES. 
 
 Breakfast, 7. Dinner, i. Supper, 6 
 
 The first is from a hotel that prints a 
 new supper bill every evening, but has 
 this, its breakfast bill, stationary. Any
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 69 
 
 hotel keeper or steward who may be in the 
 act of choosing a form of bill for a new 
 hotel or other beginning will find use for 
 all the particulars of headings, hours for 
 meals, notices and all such particulars 
 which are much better shown than written 
 about 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Wheat Flakes 
 
 FRUIT. 
 
 Oat Meal 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Wheaten Grits 
 
 Salt Mackerel Fish Balls 
 
 Broiled or Fried Fresh Fish 
 
 BROILED. 
 
 Beefsteak Ham Lamb Chops 
 
 Breakfast Bacon 
 
 Ham 
 
 FRIED. 
 
 Rasher of Bacon 
 Frankfort Sausage 
 
 Tripe 
 
 Stewed or Fried Pigs' Feet Stewed Kidneys 
 
 Smoked Beef with Eggs or Cream 
 
 EGGS. 
 
 Boiled Fried Scrambled Poached on Toast 
 Omelets, plain, with Cheese, Parsley and Jelly 
 
 COLD MEATS. 
 
 Baked 
 
 POTATOES. 
 Hashed with Cream 
 
 French Fried 
 
 BREAD, ETC. 
 
 Corn Muffins Graham Bread 
 
 French Rolls Toast Plain Bread 
 
 Oolong and English Breakfast Tea 
 Coffee Chocolate Cocoa 
 
 HOURS FOR MEALS. 
 Breakfast 7 to 9. Dinner i to 3. Supper 6 to 8. 
 
 NURSES AND CHILDREN: 
 Breakfast 7. Dinner 12:30. Supper 5:30. 
 
 An extra charge for dishes ordered not on the 
 Bill of Fare. 
 
 The second of these bills is from a hotel 
 that prints a new bill for every breakfast, 
 making the changes on wheat flakes, cere- 
 aline, hominy grits, graham farina, cracked 
 wheat mush, rolled avena, and all the 
 names which the manufacturers and mer- 
 chants invent for such farinaceous wares; 
 that is for the first line, and all the others 
 are similarly changed, especially the styles 
 of potatoes and breads and the entrees. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 FRUIT. 
 Oat Meal and Grits with cream 
 
 Green, English, Breakfast and Japan Teas 
 Coffee and Chocolate 
 
 BROILED. 
 
 Beefsteak, Plain, Tomato Sauce or Onions 
 
 Veal Cutlets, Plain or Breaded 
 
 Mutton Chops, Plain, Breaded or with Tomato Sauce 
 
 Lamb Chops Calf's Liver Mutton Kidneys 
 
 Ham Tripe Breakfast Bacon 
 
 Pigs' Feet, Plain or in Batter 
 
 COLD. 
 
 Lamb Tongues Roast Beef Smoked Tongue* 
 Pressed Corn Beef 
 
 FISH. 
 Broiled or Fried Trout Sheephead Redfish 
 
 Croaker Redfish Courtbouillon 
 Tenderloin of Trout, Sauce Tartar 
 
 Salt Fish with Cream. 
 Codfish Balls Salt Mackerel 
 
 EGGS. 
 As Ordered 
 
 Saratoga Chips, 
 Lyonaise Baked and Stewed Potatoes 
 
 Broiled, Raw, Stewed and Fried Oysters 
 
 Stewed Kidneys, Tripe and Corned Beef Hash 
 
 Sausages 
 
 Fried Hominy Boston Brown Bread 
 
 Vienna and French Rolls Egg- Muffins 
 
 Graham and Plain Bread Dry and Milk Toast 
 
 Buckwheat Cakes Maple Syrup Honey 
 
 BREAKFAST WINES. 
 
 SAUTERNES. Pts. Qts. 
 Haute Sauterne...tl 00 $2 00 
 
 CLARETS. 
 
 Pts. Qti. 
 
 St. Julien $0 75 $1 25 
 
 La Tour Blanche... 2 00 Chateau Bouiliac... 75 125 
 
 Sauterne 100 2 00 | St. Estephe 76 125 
 
 Breakf .ist from 6 to 9:30 Dinner from I to 3 
 
 Supper, 6 to 9. 
 
 Breakfast on Sunday, 8:00 to 10:30 
 Dinner " " 2:00 to 4:00 
 Supper " " 6:30 to 9:00 
 
 Dishes ordered not on this Bill will be 
 charged extra. ,
 
 70 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 The third breakfast bill shows another 
 style. It is the winter breakfast bill of a 
 large New Orleans hotel, one of the best 
 in the South, printed a thousand at a time 
 and showing a rich variety, but yet has two 
 blank lines left to write in any novelty or 
 fresh acquisition from the markets. The 
 list of breakfast wines accords with the 
 customs in that part of the country. 
 
 "THE SAN MARCO? 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oranges 
 Tea Coffee Chocolate Shells Hominy 
 
 Oatmeal mush Hot rolls Dry and Cream toast 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Broiled shad Smoked herring 
 Smoked salmon Codfish balls Codfish and cream 
 
 Codfish hash Fried oysters 
 Stewed oysters Broiled salt mackerel 
 
 BROILED AND FRIED. 
 
 Sirloin steak Bacon Mutton chops Veal cutlets 
 
 Venison steak Pickled tripe 
 
 Liver Sausages Ham 
 
 Pickled pig's feet 
 
 Mutton chops, breaded, tomato sauee 
 Stewed tripe Stewed chicken 
 
 Veal cutlets, breaded, tomato sauce 
 Corned beef hash Fried hominy 
 
 Fried Indian meal mush 
 Stewed kidneys Fried banana* 
 
 EGGS. 
 Boiled Fried Scrambled Poached Omelettes 
 
 POTATOES. 
 
 Baked French fried Saratoga Lyonnaise 
 
 Hashed browned Hashed, with cream 
 
 Baked and fried sweet 
 
 Gridle cakes Buckwheat cakes 
 
 Maple Syrup 
 
 The fourth is the breakfast bill of one of 
 the finest winter resort hotels in Florida, 
 under northern management. This is a 
 stock bill of fare, printed a thousand at a 
 time, but has a style of its own and is de- 
 void of notices or any extraneous additions. 
 
 THE SHERWOOD. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 BAKED APPLES 
 OATMEAL 
 
 TOMATOES 
 
 FRUITS STEWED PRUN1 
 
 HOMINY CRACKED WHEAT 
 
 BREAD, CAKES, ETC. 
 French Rolls Graham Rolls English Muffin* 
 
 Boston Brown Bread Corn Bread 
 
 Rye Bread Rice Cakes Wheat Muffin* 
 
 Rice Muffins Indian Cakes Crumpets 
 
 Wheat Cakes 
 
 FISH. 
 Salt Codfish with cream Fish Balls 
 
 Baltimore Roe Herring- Salt Mackerel 
 Codfish Hash Smoked Salmon Smelts 
 Shad Codfish steak 
 
 BROILKD. 
 
 Beefsteak Ham Pig's Feet broiled 
 
 Mutton Chops Veal Cutlets Breakfast Bacon 
 
 Mutton Kidneys Calf's Liver and Bacon 
 
 Chicken Pork Chops 
 Chicken Livers en brochette 
 
 STEWED. 
 Mutton kidneys with mushroom* 
 
 Chicken Livers with mushrooms 
 Clams Oysters Roast Beef Hash Chicken Hash 
 Corned Beef Hash 
 
 FRIED. 
 
 Hominy Mush Deerfoot Farm Sausage* 
 Oysters Scollops 
 
 EGGS. 
 
 Boiled Scrambled Poached Fried 
 Shirred Omelet 
 
 POTATOES. 
 
 Baked Hashed with cream Fried 
 Lyonnaise Sautees 
 
 Breakfast, 7 to n. 
 
 Dinner, 6 to 7 130. 
 
 Lunch, i to a. 
 Supper, 9 to 11:30. 
 
 The fifth, a New York City hotel bill, 
 with a list as rich and abundant as any, 
 shows different ways of grouping the ar- 
 ticles together and is suggestive of many 
 suitable breakfast dishes. Nothing could 
 show so well as this bill how much work 
 must be done in a hotel before breakfast. 
 Undoubtedly there are too many dishes 
 offered in all but one or two of these bills, 
 still, as a good many of them are not 
 cooked until ordered the destruction of 
 provisions is not quite as serious as it looks. 
 
 Manifestly the proper rule in composing 
 the breakfast bill is to place the dishes in 
 the order that they are eaten by the gen- 
 erality of people. It is the custom, and
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 71 
 
 the fashion, too, to eat fruit as a beginning, 
 and then oatmeal or hominy or cracked 
 wheat with cream ; only small portions are 
 served. After that the fish, meats, eggs 
 and potatoes and bread are selected from 
 all at once, and it makes little difference 
 except for the appearance of the bill what 
 order they are printed in, but waffles, crum- 
 pets, and all kinds of griddle cakes are 
 eaten last and should appear last in the 
 bill, as they do in most of the examples. 
 The San Marco bill is the best model as 
 regards the arrangement of different classes 
 of dishes. 
 
 ABOUT THE AMERICAN BREAKFAST. 
 
 There is no French pattern for the 
 American breakfast bill; the French do 
 not know anything about any such break- 
 fasts as our hotels set out. The English 
 have some idea of it, for they believe in 
 taking a tolerably substantial meal to begin 
 the day upon, but their ideas of what some- 
 thing substantial consists of do not reach 
 up anywhere near the displays of actual 
 meals in the five breakfast bills of the fore- 
 going pages. The French custom is to 
 take a light breakfast of coffee or chocolate 
 and rolls or bread, and defer the eating of 
 a hearty meal until the middle of the day; 
 the English expect for breakfast, besides 
 the coffee or tea, a chop, or bacon and 
 eggs, hot rolls from the bakers, and butter, 
 or toast with some sort of appetizing addi- 
 tion such as potted tongue, anchovies or 
 marmalade, and that is thought to be a 
 sufficiently plentiful meal to last until 
 lunch at noon ; dinner taking place at two 
 or three o'clock and a cold supper some 
 time between candle-lighting and bed-time, 
 according to the habits of the family, and 
 the same form prevails in the hotels. 
 
 Without leaving our proper domain and 
 going into that of the doctor's it may at 
 least be asserted that our people eat too 
 much for good health and at the wrong 
 times. Could anybody reasonably contend 
 that such an immense number and variety 
 of viands are necessary as appear on the 
 third, fourth and fifth breakfast bills pre- 
 
 ceeding? And yet a necessity of a certain 
 kind does exist, it is the business necessity 
 which obliges the hotel keepers to try to 
 please people who, having eaten too much 
 the day and night before, have no real 
 healthy appetite for breakfast, but pick 
 around, find fault, and imagine that if there 
 was only something else which is not there 
 they could eat; that oysters stewed and fried 
 are perhaps very good, but as for them they 
 can never eat them any way but broiled, and 
 while the friend at their right must have 
 fresh fish, yet criticises the shad for its 
 bones for their part .if all the fishes of the 
 sea were there they can only pick a bit of 
 smoked salmon. While such an unreason- 
 able demand for quantity exists the de- 
 mand will be supplied. 
 
 "My dear Careme," once said the Prince 
 Regent to his famous cfief, "your dinner 
 yesterday was superb. Everything you 
 gave me was delicious, but you will make 
 me die of indigestion." 
 
 "Mon Prince," returned Careme, bowing 
 low, "my duty is to flatter your appetite, 
 not to control it." 
 
 There is no doubt, however, that it is 
 frequently the case in our hotels that the 
 hotel man, the proprietor, manager or 
 steward, as the case may be, has it quite 
 within his own control to provide a small 
 but excellent spread instead of such an 
 overgrown catalogue as those shown. It 
 is sometimes ill-naturedly charged that 
 these bills of fare are not true representa- 
 tions of the actual meals, that a large por- 
 tion of the dishes are " crossed off " before 
 the bill goes to table. In fact, there is 
 nothing more distasteful to the hotel keeper 
 or steward than to have a "scratched" bill 
 go to the table, and great trouble is often 
 taken and considerable expense to obtain 
 some scarce article, not so much because 
 it is really needed as because it is on the 
 bill of fare. So where it is optional, or 
 nearly so, with the hotel man whether he 
 will make out a big list of dishes or a small 
 one he should limit the number to a rea- 
 sonable amount, and limit the styles oi 
 cooking, too ; for the more ways of cook-
 
 72 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 Ing allowed the more utensils, more hands 
 (or more haste), the more previous prepara- 
 tion and more waste. Whatever else may 
 be said of the hotel breakfast, it is, unless 
 under very good management, the most 
 wasteful meal of all, chiefly through the 
 propensity of the guests to order and leave 
 things which they have not the appetite to 
 eat, and in a great measure through the 
 number of things offered necessitating the 
 preparation of so many steaks, chops, pota- 
 toes, breads, fruits, pieces of fish and the 
 whole list according, which, if not used, are 
 the more liable to be lo&t through being so 
 prepared. 
 
 A SMALL PATTERN, BUT SUFFICIENT. 
 
 Rather than be compelled to include al- 
 most everything in a stock bill of fare, and 
 to cross off several dishes each morning 
 because unattainable, it is better to name 
 too few; have the bill printed with a blank 
 line or two, and write in something special 
 every morning. It may be chicken or 
 oysters, perhaps, in some places, but if only 
 one kind of hash (the New York breakfast 
 bill has three) it will be better thought of 
 for being special that day than many of 
 the stock dishes already printed in. This 
 example shows the form : 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 FRUIT 
 COFFEE TEA HOMINY OATMEAL 
 
 FISH. 
 
 SALT FI$H AND CREAM 
 ROILED MACKEREL 
 
 FRESH FISH 
 
 CODFISH BALLS 
 
 BROILED AND FRIED. 
 
 SIRLOIN STEAK. LAMB CHOPS 
 
 BREAKFAST BACON BROILED HAM 
 
 FRIED SALT PORK BROILED TRIPE 
 
 EGGS. 
 BROILED FRIED SCRAMBLED 
 
 COLD. 
 
 TONGUE 
 
 POTATOES. 
 
 LYONNAISE 
 
 OMELETTES 
 
 TRENCH ROLLS 
 
 HOT CORN BREAD 
 
 DRY TOAST. MILK TOAST, BUTTERED TOAST. 
 
 As a commentary upon the absurd pro- 
 fuseness of the American hotel breakfast 
 these bills of fare, from one of the Penin- 
 sular and Oriental Royal Mail steamships, 
 are appended. It is true they do not enu- 
 merate the breads, coffee and vegetables, 
 but neither do they offer many varieties of 
 meats or fish, or of porridge, or miscel- 
 laneous ways of cooking. 
 
 BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 P. & O. ss. "Thames" (at sea between Gibraltar 
 and Plymouth.) 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Porridge 
 
 Fried Fish 
 
 Mutton Chops 
 
 Minced Col lops 
 
 Grilled Bacon 
 
 Scrambled Egg* 
 
 Curry and Rice 
 
 Cold Ham 
 
 LUNCHEON 
 
 Soused Herrings a la Sardine 
 
 Corned Brisket, Roast Mutton 
 
 Bologna Sausages, Galantine of Veal 
 
 Salad 
 Mashed Potatoes, Cheese, Buns 
 
 DINNER. 
 SOUP Green Pea 
 
 FISH Salmon Cutlets a la Maitre d'Hotel 
 
 JOINT Roast Beef and Horse-radish Sauce 
 
 ENTREES Rissoles of Pheasant a la Pompadour 
 
 Macaroni a i'ltalienne 
 POULTRY Roast Capon and Ham 
 
 CURRY Mutton 
 
 PASTRY Lemon Jelly 
 
 Almond Custard 
 
 Plum Pudding 
 
 Therein m?y be found, likewise, good 
 sanction for a class of "breakfast entrees,'' 
 such as our sample bills show; there are 
 minced collops, and curry and rice. Also, 
 an idea for making curry a standing dish 
 with a permanent heading, the kind ol 
 meat to be changed at will, tor dinner.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 73 
 
 A SPECIAL BILL WHICH IS LARGE ENOUGH 
 FOR ALL TIMES. 
 
 PEABODT HOTEL. 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 SUNDAY, MAY 16, 1886. 
 
 Strawberries with Cream 
 
 Oat Meal Cracked Wheat 
 
 Grits 
 
 BROILED 
 
 Spanish Mackerel, Maitre d'Hotei Sauce 
 
 Duchesse Potatoes 
 
 Spring Chicken, Water Cress 
 Trench Fried Potatoes 
 
 EGGS Fried 
 
 Shirred 
 
 Omelets Boiled 
 
 Poached 
 
 BREAD, ETC. 
 
 French Rolls Graham Muffins 
 
 Corn Muffins Brioches 
 
 Wheat Cakes Corn Cakes 
 
 Coffee Chocolate Tea 
 
 THE AMERICAN SUPPER OR TEA. 
 
 The same thing that has been done for 
 the breakfast could not be done for the 
 supper ; that is, the presenting of a set 
 bills that fit alike all hotels in any part of 
 the country, for while there is great uni- 
 formity of practice in one respect there is 
 extreme diversity in the other. The 
 American breakfast is always a substantial 
 meal ; the supper may be anything to suit 
 the place, or may not appear at all. The 
 general American habit is to partake 01 
 only three meals a day : a good breakfast 
 a good dinner, a light supper. In many 
 hotels, such as those in country towns anc 
 at resorts, houses that are not too fashion- 
 able that is to say, not too city-like these 
 healthful habits can be kept up ; the hote 
 keeper provides a very plentiful dinner, al 
 his assistants work hard for it, and after 
 that all is quiet ; the third meal of the day 
 is easy. In the middle, southern and west 
 ern states it is called supper ; in the north 
 ern section and in Canada it is called tea 
 In a great many hotels which make ligh 
 
 of this meal the bill of fare is headed "Tea 
 Dard,'' and the guests are not encouraged 
 :o expect much from it. Before the rail- 
 roads had spread all over the country it 
 used to be a saying "the pastry cook makes 
 the supper," which meant that hot-breads, 
 cakes and toast and, perhaps, baked pota- 
 toes were all that would be especially 
 cooked ; cold meats, stewed fruit, coffee, 
 tea and milk serving to complete the meal. 
 Hotel proprietors used to be divided in two 
 classes : those who gave hot beefsteak for 
 upper and those who did not, and there 
 was a subdivision of those who gave hot 
 beefsteak every night except Sunday and 
 those who gave it every night in the year, 
 Sunday making no difference. The only 
 other hot dish allowed in the beefsteak 
 houses was boiled salt mackerel. But there 
 was great choice of breads, rolls, rusks, 
 coffee cakes, coiled buns, corn-bread, muf- 
 fins, ginger-bread, buttermilk, biscuits, 
 beaten biscuits, waffles, batter cakes, toast 
 and cold bread of several varieties. 
 
 One reason why the hotel supper has 
 changed from the old simple style is found 
 in the arrival of railroad trains at supper 
 time; the travelers coming to the hotel 
 must have a good meal, and the supper 
 bill is almost equal to the breakfast bill 
 shown a little way back. The broiled steak 
 and boiled mackerel are found there as of 
 old, but in addition there are chops and 
 cutlets, fried fresh fish, spare-ribs, eggs, 
 oysters, chicken more things than we 
 care to enumerate. Another cause is the 
 desire of a few in almost every town to 
 dine at supper time instead of mid-day, 
 when the hotel keeper, not caring to change 
 his hours to please a few, sets out a supper 
 bounteous enough to allow them to call it 
 dinner if they please. The annexed 
 example is the very moderate bill of fare 
 of a very large hotel which is in exactly 
 the above described position, the regular 
 dinner being served at from one to three 
 and no dinner in the evening, unless spe- 
 cial for a party. This is, as far as it goes, 
 an excellent pattern, the better because it 
 allows so few varieties of hot meats.
 
 74 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Vienna Coffee Chocolate 
 
 Japan and Gunpowder Tea 
 
 Sweet Milk 
 
 French Rolls Johnny Cake 
 
 Saratoga Rolls 
 Graham, Rye and Wheat Bread 
 
 Broiled Sirloin Steak 
 Fried Black Fish 
 
 Eggs Boiled, Fried, Shirred, Scrambled 
 
 Omelettes Plain, with Parsley, Onions 
 
 Tomatoes or Ham 
 
 French Fried Potatoes 
 
 Saratoga Chips Baked Irish Potatoes 
 
 Pearl Grits 
 
 Cold Roast Beef Cold Roast Mutton 
 
 Cold Corned Beef Cold Smoked Tongue 
 
 Cold Boiled Ham 
 
 Beet and Cabbage Salad 
 
 Potato Salai 
 
 Assorted Small Cakes 
 Frozen Tapioca Custard 
 
 Articles taken or sent from the table, and dishes or- 
 dered not on this Bill of Fare, -will posi- 
 tively be charged for extra. 
 
 RISING EQUAL TO THE EMERGENCY. 
 
 For a hotel in a large and growing city, 
 where bankers and merchants who would 
 like dinner to be In the evening if it were 
 convenient, are numerous among the 
 guests, and where the trains bring many 
 passengers; also at those resorts where 
 many people of fashion contend in favor of 
 the late dinner, the happiest combination 
 of a supper with some dinner dishes added 
 is this in practice at the hotel named below. 
 It is the conception of the accomplished 
 steward of that house, Mr. George Fulwell, 
 who is a specialist in bills of fare, taking as 
 much pleasure in the development of ideas 
 in that particular line as some men do in 
 producing a new variety of fruit and others 
 do in carrying off the honors at the exhib- 
 itions; but he has paid attention to this 
 branch and knows how to put his practical 
 knowledge of jthe steward's business to 
 account in suiting the tastes and conveni- 
 ence of all the patrons of the hotel alike. 
 
 PEABODT HOTEL, 
 MEMPHIS, TRNN. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Cerealine Porridge 
 
 ENTREES Broiled Veal Chops 
 
 Stewed Turkey Giblets, with Peas 
 Ragout of Mutton, with Tomatoes 
 
 Blanquette of Rabbit, Milanaise 
 
 Fried Codfish Balli 
 
 COLD Roast Beef Roast Duck 
 
 Venison Salad 
 
 EGGS Shirred Boiled Scrambled 
 
 Omelets, with fine herbs 
 
 POTATOES Baked Saratoga Chips 
 
 German Fried 
 
 BREAD, ETC. French Cream Graham Plain 
 
 Vienna Rolls Tea Biscuits Toast 
 
 Rye Griddle Cakes 
 
 SYRUPS Maple White Rock 
 
 New Orleans Molasses 
 
 Coffee Tea Milk 
 
 Preserved Cranberries and Assorted Cakes 
 
 . HOURS FOR MEALS. 
 Breakfast, 7-11. Dinner, 1-4. Supper, 6-9. 
 
 SUNDAY. 
 Breakfast, 7.30-11. Dinner, 1.30-4. Supper, 6-9. 
 
 CHILDREN AND NURSES. 
 
 Breakfast, 7. Dinner, i. Supper, 6. 
 
 Tuesday, January 3, iS8S. 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Oat Meal Porridge 
 OYSTERS Stewed Fried 
 
 ENTREES Broiled Pig's Feet 
 
 Fried Veal Cutlets, Robert Sauce 
 
 Stewed Kidneys, Madeira Sauce 
 
 Braised Beef, with Mushroomf 
 
 COLD Venison Pork 
 
 Mutton Salmon Salad 
 
 POTATOES Baked Hollandaise 
 
 Saratoga Chips 
 
 BREAD, ETC. French Graham Cream Plain 
 
 Finger Rolls Currant Coiled Buns 
 
 Toast Flannel Griddle Cakes 
 
 SYRUPS Maple White Rock 
 
 New Orleans Molasses 
 
 Coffee 
 
 Tea 
 
 Milk 
 
 Canned California Cherries and Assorted Cake* 
 Wednesday, January 4, :888.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 75 
 
 Two of these bills of succeeding dates 
 are printed to show where the changes 
 come in. It will be observed that this is 
 far in advance of the regular stock bill of 
 fare, in being a fresh composition printed 
 daily and changed in nearly every partic- 
 ular, yet without depriving the guests of 
 their accustomed favorite dishes ; the hotel 
 does not abandon the mid-day dinner 
 which the greater number of people like 
 best, but changes the make-up of the sup- 
 per without adding to the number of dishes 
 so that they can dine at night who wish to 
 do so. There is no beefsteak, therefore 
 fewer loins of beef to cut up ; and no soup 
 to be re-christened from a mid-day lunch, 
 but there are eggs one evening and oysters 
 the next ; the potatoes, breads, cold meats 
 and supper fruit are all changed about, just 
 enough to give freshness and variety with- 
 out depriving any person of the regular 
 diet of rolls, baked potatoes or batter cakes. 
 In those hotels where the dinner hour is 
 changed to evening the greatest discontent 
 is occasioned by the disappearance from the 
 menu of h t rolls and biscuits, fried pota- 
 oes and batter cakes, and, be the dinner 
 never so plentiful, nothing that can be of- 
 fered can quite make up the loss to those 
 who have been in the habit of eating and 
 enjoying those popular articles of diet for 
 supper all their life. The new form of bill 
 under consideration appears to be a compro- 
 mise for all parties. A compromise used to 
 be thought a good thing in the time of the 
 great Henry Clay, and a compromise at one 
 time was thought to be all that was needed 
 to avert the war of secession ; this com- 
 promise bill of Mr. Fulwell's by a parity of 
 reasoning ought certainly to be effective in 
 keeping the peace between the early and 
 late dinner factions, even in a growing com- 
 mercial city like Memphis. "Back num- 
 bers" of these bills (for the system has been 
 in satisfactory operation for several months) 
 show variations in the plan of this expert, 
 whose efforts to rise above the commons 
 place are worthy of re-cognition especially 
 in this land where gastronomical education 
 is at present at a low stage and teachers are 
 few. One sample more is inserted here with 
 very good will towards the author: 
 
 SUPPER. 
 
 Tuesday, September 6, 1887. 
 
 Rolled Oats Porridge 
 OYSTERS Fried 
 
 Stewed 
 
 Liver, with Breakfast Bacon 
 
 BROILED 
 Pig's Feet 
 
 FRIED Croquettes of Veal, French Peas 
 
 MISCELLAN EOUS 
 
 Braised Beef, with Vegetables 
 Boiled Salt Mackerel Welsh Rare -Bit 
 
 COLD Roast Beef Roast Veal Chipped Beef 
 Roast Chicken Corned Beef 
 
 Italian Salad 
 
 Sardines in Mustard 
 
 POTATOES Baked Saratoga Chips Provencal* 
 
 BREAD, ETC. French, Graham, Vienna, Cream 
 
 and Plain Bread 
 
 Vienna Saltz Kipfel Rolls Cream Scones 
 Toast Flemish Gridle Cakes 
 
 SYRUPS Maple White Rock 
 
 New Orleans Molasses 
 
 Coffee Chocalate 
 
 Tea 
 
 Milk 
 
 French Prunes and Assorted Cakes 
 
 PORRIDGE DISHES AVAILABLE FOR SUPPER 
 AND BREAKFAST. 
 
 Cornmeal Mush. 
 Shredded Maize Porridge. 
 Rolled Oat. Porridge. 
 Cracked Wheat Porridge. 
 Rolled Avena Porridge. 
 Cracked Wheat with Cream. 
 Cerealine Porridge. 
 Farina Mush and Milk. 
 Home-made Hominy. 
 Wheaten Grits. 
 Pearl Grits. 
 Stewed Wheat. 
 Steamed Rice. 
 Apple Tapioca and Cream. 
 Cracked Wheat with Milk. 
 Oatmeal with Milk. 
 Oatmeal Porridge. 
 Mush with Milk. 
 Graham Mush. 
 Oatmeal with Cream. 
 Graham Farina Porridge. 
 Hominy Grits and Cream. 
 Rice Grits and Milk. 
 Wheat Flakes with Cream. 
 Large Hominy and Milk. 
 English Furmety. 
 Cream Sago. 
 Manioca Porridge. 
 
 [A condensed description of the composition 
 of every dish in these lists, 'which is not suffi- 
 ciently apparent by its name, will be found 
 in the Dictionary of Dishes, soon to follow.]
 
 76 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 FISH ENTREES AVAILABLE FOR SUPPER 
 AND BREAKFAST. 
 
 Broiled and Fried Fish of all Kinds. 
 
 Cutlets of Black Bass, Genoise Sauce. 
 
 Salmon Steak, Sicilian Sauce. 
 
 Fillets of Whitefish, Remoulade Sauce. 
 
 Fondue of Fish. 
 
 Scalloped Fish. 
 
 Panned Perch with Bacon. 
 
 Canned Salmon. 
 
 Smoked Bluefish, Boiled. 
 
 Spanish Mackerel, a la Maitre d'HOtel. 
 
 Codfish Balls. 
 
 Codfish Cakes. 
 
 Picked-up Fish in Cream. 
 
 Mackerel in Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Sardines in Mustard. 
 
 Sardines, TruSes. 
 
 Barbecued Redfish. 
 
 Baltimore Roe Herring. 
 
 Salt Codfish in Cream. 
 
 Codfish Steak. 
 
 Codfish Hash. 
 
 Broiled Salt Mackerel. 
 
 Redfish Courtbouillon. 
 
 Oregon Salmon. 
 
 Mullet Roes, Fried. 
 
 Smoked Salmon. 
 
 Smoked Halibut. 
 
 Smoked Haddock. 
 
 Boiled Salt Mackerel. 
 
 Smoked Herring. 
 
 Trout Courtbouillon. 
 
 Salmon with Parsley and Butter. 
 
 Fillets of Soles, k la Maitre d'Hdtel. 
 
 Baked Mullet, Fine Herbs. 
 
 Baked Whitefish. 
 
 Broiled Florida Trout. 
 
 Broiled Pompano. 
 
 Codfish Tongues on Toast. 
 
 Fresh Shrimps. 
 
 Potted Shrimps. 
 
 Buttered Shrimps. 
 
 Curried Shrimps. 
 
 Curried Lobster. 
 
 Anchovy Cakes. 
 
 Shrimp Omelette. 
 
 Potted Lobster on Toast. 
 
 Sardines and Watercress. 
 
 Scalloped Codfish. 
 
 Smoked Finnan Haddock. 
 
 Fried Slices of Cod. 
 
 Anchovy Toast. 
 
 Hot Boiled Crab. 
 
 Sar'dines on Toast. 
 
 Shrimp Pie. 
 
 Shrimp Patt es. 
 
 Broiled English Bloaters. 
 
 Currid Oysters. 
 
 Fish Quenelles. 
 
 Fish Croquettes. 
 
 Lobster Cutlets. 
 
 Fresh Fish in Cream. 
 
 Fish Flakes, a la Bechamel. 
 
 Boiled Codfish Palates. 
 
 Curried Sardines. 
 
 Bloaters in Batter. 
 
 Shrimps and Boiled Rice. 
 
 Scalloped Lobster. 
 
 Fresh Herrings Stuffed. 
 
 Broiled Kippered Salmon. 
 
 Salmon and Macaroni. 
 
 Stewed Mackerel. 
 
 Lobster Rissoles. 
 
 Herring Roe and Mushrooms. 
 
 Lobster Creams. 
 
 Dressed Crab. 
 
 Anchovy Toast with Egg. 
 
 Sardines en Caisse. 
 
 Lobster a la Creme. 
 
 Canapes of Sardines. 
 
 Scalloped Shrimps. 
 
 Sardine Sandwiches. 
 
 Shrimp Canapes. 
 
 \Otlier fish dishes -with description of all 
 can be found in the Dictionary of Dishes 
 further <?#.] 
 
 OYSTER ENTREES AVAILABLE FOR SUPPER 
 AND BREAKFAST. 
 
 Fried Oysters. 
 Stewed Oysters. 
 Oysters with Macaroni. 
 Oysters in Small Loaves. 
 Oyster Toast. 
 Steamed Oysters. 
 Oyster Patties. 
 Vol an Vents of Oysters. 
 Oysters in Croustades. 
 Scalloped Oysters. 
 Oysters a 1'Indienne. 
 Oyster Kromeskies 
 Oysters a la Brochette. 
 Oyster Omelets. 
 Oysters en Caisse. 
 Broiled Oysters. 
 Oyster Rissoles. 
 Oyster, Fritters. 
 Oysters in Wafer Shells. 
 Oysters Broiled in Bacon. 
 Oyster Chowder. 
 Oysters Fried in Batter. 
 
 Clams in same ways as oysters. 
 Scallops in same ways as oysters. 
 
 EGG ENTRIES AVAILABLE FOR SL PPER 
 AND BREAKFAST. 
 
 Eggs in about one hundred ways are 
 available, for which see the dictionary of 
 dishes further on. 
 
 It is unnecessary to follow further with 
 such lists, as all the forms of meat entrees 
 and ways of cooking potatoes are already 
 familiar to those who prepare the dinner 
 bills of fare. The foregoing lists are in- 
 tended to help those who have to make 
 new breakfast and supper bills daily, which 
 is comparatively new business.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SZEOOZDsTID. 
 
 RESTAURANT STEWARDING 
 
 COMPRISING A SURVEY OF VARIOUS STYLES OF 
 
 RESTAURANTS AND THEIR METHODS. 
 CLUB STEWARDING AND CATERING, 
 
 PUBLIC PARTY CATERING, BALL SUPPERS, 
 
 BASE BALL LUNCHES, HOTEL BANQUETS, ETC 
 
 HOW TO PREPARE AND HOW TO SERVE THEM; WITH* NUMEROUS 
 
 PATTERN BILLS OF FARE CARRIED OUT TO 
 
 QUANTITIES, COST AND PRICE 
 
 PER HEAD. 
 
 BY 
 
 JESSUP WHITEHEAD. 
 
 CHICAGO. 
 
 1899.
 
 Entered according to Act of Congress in the Office of the Librarian, at Washington, bjr 
 JESSUP WHITEHEAD, 1887 and 1889. All rights reserved.
 
 RESTAURANT STEWARDING. 
 
 "The difference between hotel and res- 
 taurant, did you ask? Oh, everbody knows 
 that. The difference is well, let's see 
 the difference is, at a restaurant you can 
 get your meals any time you want, and in 
 a hotel you can't, because they close their 
 doors. The restaurant man is glad to see 
 you come in at any hour of the day or 
 night, while in the hotels they look at a 
 fellow like he had felonious intentions if 
 he tries to get in to eat after their time is 
 up." 
 
 Good enough as far as it goes, but if we 
 think it over a little we shall find greater 
 differences than that. 
 
 Hotel-keeping is good housekeeping on 
 a magnificent scale; restaurant- keeping is 
 merchandizing in meat and drink. The 
 hotel Boniface keeps a good house; the 
 restaurateur has command of the markets. 
 The hotel-keeper takes care of people; 
 the restaurateur attends upon people who 
 try to take care of themselves. The hotel- 
 keeper provides a home for a number sub- 
 ject to rules; the restaurateur provides a 
 refuge for those who know no rules or are 
 ruled out. The hotel-keeper thinks the 
 most of his customers in the aggregate and 
 will not change his ways to suit different 
 individuals; the restaurateur thinks most 
 of the individuals and is not disturbed if 
 their tastes differ to wide extremes. The 
 hotel-keeper provides meals for numbers 
 by wholesale methods, such as would cost 
 the individual three or four times as much 
 to provide singly for himself; the restaura- 
 teur provides by retail methods the separ- 
 ate meals as ordered and charges for his 
 services. The hotel-keeper thinks and 
 manages for all; the restaurateur invites 
 each one to think and manage for himself 
 and adapts his establishment to meet every 
 caprice. 
 
 The model restaurant keeper stocks up 
 like a merchant with everything that will 
 sell; secures the latest novelties like a 
 merchant ; displays his goods like a mer- 
 
 chant; advertises like a merchant ; makes 
 his prices according to the demand ; makes 
 his money out of the luxuries rather than 
 the necessities of his customers. 
 
 When the hotel steward goes to market 
 and finds some desirable thing, the question 
 with him is " Will it pay? " The restaurant 
 steward asks himself, " Will it sell ? " The 
 first must limit his purchases within the 
 bounds of the price per day charged by his 
 house; the other must judge whether any 
 among the known or probable patrons of 
 his restaurant will buy the fresh delicacy 
 at the price demanded. The hotel bill of 
 fare shows how much can be done for a 
 certain fixed price per head ; the restaurant 
 carte shows what there is in market, and, 
 consequently, in the restaurant larder, and 
 what it will cost if ordered. 
 
 The hotel steward hiring hands expects 
 to have but one set for the day ; only one 
 continuous watch. He hires them for 
 long days, not comparable with the days 
 of other classes of workers, if counted in 
 hours, yet broken up and made easy by 
 intervals between meals. He has times to 
 close his doors and give most or all of the 
 hands a recess. The restaurant steward 
 hires them for so many hours continuous 
 work without breaks or intervals; and 
 when the clock strikes the watch on duty 
 stops work and the next watch takes hold 
 as promptly as in a factory; he strives, 
 therefore, to apportion the workers to the 
 duties to be performed in such a way that 
 their time will be fully employed during 
 all the hours he pays them for. He rarely 
 closes his doors at all. The restaurant 
 meals are never over, but always begin- 
 ning. The most unseasonable hours are 
 often the best for business. When the 
 hotel is asleep and the theatre is over the 
 restaurant is most awake, and the fresh 
 hands newly come on watch then render 
 their best work in cooking and service. 
 
 (TT)
 
 78 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 The restaurant exists for odd times, 
 unseasonable hours ; to oe outside of com- 
 mon rules and habits; to meet sudden 
 emergencies, unusual demands, transitory 
 fancies and pacing fashions. The success- 
 ful restaurateur is like a courtier, making 
 cash customer in turn think he is the only 
 one that really knows how to order a din- 
 ner, or has a true appreciation of what is 
 good and en regie. The successful steward 
 is one who can carry a stock so varied, 
 even of perishables, that he can never be 
 taken unawares by the most unexpected 
 orders, and who yet loses the least through 
 the spoiling of provisions. 
 
 The best cooks, probably, are hotel cooks 
 who have had a previous restaurant train- 
 ing. Hotel cooks attain their greatest ex- 
 ce'lence in that most valuable knowledge 
 of cookery which the French common 
 people are credited with possessing as a 
 birthright, which Alexis Soyer gave such 
 a brilliant example of when he showed the 
 British soldiers in the Crimea how to take 
 the rations which they were starving and 
 dying upon and make them into palatable 
 and nutritious soups and stews, such as 
 their French neighbors and allies were 
 concocting so well from the same poor 
 supplies. Hotel cooks learn good manage- 
 ment; they learn the economies; to make 
 much of little; to suit the average greatest 
 number ; but the restaurant cooks are the 
 more ornamental in their work ; they must 
 learn styles and fancy touches and take 
 instructions from many critical or whim- 
 sical customers. The individual style ser- 
 vice of hotel dinners in- small dishes has a 
 certain prettiness of its own and a propri- 
 etary exclusiveness about it which delights 
 many, but the restaurant entire dishes for 
 parties of four, six or eight give the cooks 
 room and opportunities for styles of decor- 
 ation which untraveled hotel cooks have 
 no inkling of. A restaurant cook having 
 to serve even so common an order as saus- 
 age and mashed potatoes for two, price a 
 few cents, will place four separate, smooth 
 spoonfuls of potato cross-fashion in the 
 
 dish, a brown fried sausage pressed half- 
 way in the top of each and gravy over all, 
 and sends in an attractive dish with a 
 shape to it, when in inexperienced hands it 
 would be nothin.-, but potato in one dish, 
 sausage in another, common and unnotice- 
 able; alike in the commonest boarding 
 house and the best hotel. From such 
 simples the restaurant cook's work rises to 
 whole dishes of fish, fowl and game, with 
 foreign names, styles and ornamental 
 accessories. At the same time the restau- 
 rant cook has an expensive liking for large 
 portions, choice cuts, whole steaks, whole 
 fishes, plentiful wines to stew in and the 
 free use of imported rarities encouraged by 
 a class of customers who pay a dollar or 
 several dollars for a single dish, but which 
 he must modify to some extent in the 
 hotel according to its style and prices. 
 
 The hotel headwaiter having a party or 
 a family whom he desires to have particu- 
 larly well served, after locating them at the 
 pleasantest table, looks around among his 
 wai-ers for one who has experience in a 
 restaurant. The restaurant waiter may 
 seem slow and ine fficient amongst a crowd, 
 but he is the one they want when minute 
 personal attentions are required; the one 
 who never forgets ; is never in a hurry to 
 get away ; neither hears nor sees anything 
 at his lable except his own duties. Res- 
 taurant training makes that sort of waiter. 
 
 But as everybody knows, they are not 
 all restaurants that are called by that 
 name. The real restaurants of the original 
 Parisian sort are very few. Some, even 
 of the most famous of modern French 
 establishments have closed up within the 
 last few years. Some writers account for 
 the decrease by saying the rising genera- 
 tion is becoming more mercenary and pre- 
 fers the table d'hote with its fixed price for 
 dinner or supper to the gilt-edged restau- 
 rant with its fancy prices and the latter 
 falls into decline through the growth of 
 economical tendencies. However, the or- 
 iginal pattern of restaurant will still exist,
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 few but remarkable, and there are modifi- 
 cations of it growing everywhere in in- 
 creasing numbers. 
 
 THE RISE OF THE RESTAURANT. 
 
 The rise of the restaurant is nearly al- 
 ways alike semi-accidental. It might 
 seem a curious line of argument to pursue, 
 but it is more than likely it could be proven 
 that of those who >'open a restaurant" 
 nineteen out of twenty fail. There seems 
 to be a special adaptation to the business 
 required, a love of it, and a kind of talent 
 not often to be had for money. The first 
 great Parisian restaurants, which attracted 
 world-wide notice and imitators in all 
 countries have been n entioned so often 
 Beauvilliers' Very's Robert's that one 
 is loth to touch again upon a subject so 
 old, yet all the mention is of them in their 
 prime, in their success; nobody knows 
 how they began, nor by what accident of 
 patronage their originators were started. 
 Here is a modern, a very recent instance, 
 which is an illustration that will suit nearly 
 every case and shows that restaurateurs 
 are "born, not made." It is of one Joseph 
 he has another name, but as Joseph only 
 he is noted in the papeis who had a small 
 restaurant somewhere in Paris, "Joseph's 
 restaurant," and became the favorite of an 
 appreciative few. He had some specialties, 
 some special ways of pleasing his patrons 
 which we may not know they were his 
 special points of adaptation which made him 
 successful and, perhaps, were generally of 
 too small dimensions to be described, they 
 were characteristics. But one point was 
 of sufficient saliency to be taken hold of; 
 something he did which became the talk 
 of gastronomical Paris. What was it? 
 What could one obscure man in a small 
 restaurant do that made all the gilded and 
 glittering establishments of old standing 
 envious? He served as nobody else could, 
 Canard Saavage, Sauce au Sang W T ild 
 Duck with Blood Sauce roast wild duck 
 with its natural gravy. It is hard to avoid 
 writing cynically about such a matter, but 
 we will try. Some of these things which 
 
 catch the passing fashion are so exceed- 
 ing small, the admiration of them seems 
 asinine; yet somebody must uphold and 
 magnify them the restaurateur must. To 
 tell how it was done is but a parody on 
 another old story of how some wondrous 
 cook electrified a court and charmed all 
 Christendom by the genius shown in cook- 
 ing two beefsteaks and squeezing the gravy 
 out of one to pour over the other which 
 was for the prince. M. Joseph roasted his 
 ducks very rare, then cut the breasts in 
 slices upon a chafing dish (a metal dish 
 with an alcohol lamp under, to keep it at 
 cooking heat), the gravy from the rare- 
 cooked slices flowing freely. All the rest 
 of the carcass he squeezed dry to obtain 
 the juice for the slices of breast of duck, 
 and he let all finish cooking in the dish, 
 the gravy of course thickening itself, and 
 served the meat so in its own juices. It 
 may be he added flavorings and seasonings, 
 the reporters do not say, and if so they 
 were but incidental. Canard Sauvage^ 
 Sauce au Sang was the dish. And let the 
 host of carvers of "Roast Beef Rare" at 
 the merchants' lunch houses, chop houses, 
 restaurants, dining rooms, cafes and hotels 
 remember it when they see the "natural 
 gravy" flow into the dish of the hot carv- 
 ing table and cook and become thick there 
 that is the sauce au sang, the blood gravy 
 which, when drawn from wild ducks, a 
 large number of Parisian gourmets went 
 into ecstacies over and made M. Joseph 
 famous. Next, a wealthy American one 
 of the very wealthiest was taken by a 
 party of friends to M. Joseph's, not ne- 
 cessarily to partake of canard sauvage, but 
 to patronize the pet restaurateur of the 
 day, and they commissioned him to prepare 
 a dinner for them of his own choosing, 
 which he did ; a thoroughly simple dinner 
 of roast quail and a few other viands, with 
 which they were so delighted because it 
 was prepared by the only M. Joseph that 
 they ordered the same for the next day and 
 for several succeeding days. After they 
 were gone their ways a great Parisian c&f6 
 secured the services of M. Joseph, just as
 
 80 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 an operatic manager secures a star per- 
 former, and he officiated at a silver chafing 
 dish with a silver duck-squeezer; and, later 
 and latest, he was enticed away from the 
 cafe* by the very wealthy citizen of the 
 United States by the offer of a very large 
 salary, and is now in this country in pri- 
 vate service. Such is, in nearly every case, 
 the history of the rise of the high-priced, 
 fashionable restaurant there is a natural 
 adaptation of a cook and an enthusiastic 
 love of his profession ; then the patronage of 
 wealthy admirers and it is an accomplished 
 fact. But where is the restaurant in the 
 case of M. Joseph? Most probably it is 
 coming. We are not writing of the res- 
 taurant of the last century. M. Joseph is 
 of to-day ; his restaurant may come to- 
 morrow. Some morning the papers will 
 say : "Delmonico is likely to meet with a 
 formidable competitor shortly, in a magni- 
 ficent restaurant after the Parisian fashion, 
 to be opened by the $10,000 M.Joseph, the 
 famous ex-chef to Mr. Vanderbilt," etc., 
 etc. They all aspire to it. Did not Presi- 
 dent Arthur's chef open a restaurant? 
 Did not Presidents Hayes' and Garfield's 
 steward open a restaurant? What became 
 of them afterwards does not belong to the 
 story. When the hero and heroine of a 
 novel get married the interest ceases and 
 the story ends. Likewise, every man thinks 
 to get to keeping a high-class restaurant 
 is heaven until he has a chance to try it. 
 
 A TYPICAL AMERICAN RESTAURATEUR. 
 
 As true a type as flhe French M. Joseph 
 of the restaurateur, as distinguished from 
 the hotel keeper by all the traits we have 
 already enumerated is the American, Mr. 
 Taft, pictured below. He must indeed be 
 an enthusiast, as the correspondents all 
 agree in calling him, to carry his hobby of 
 keeping everything that can be called for 
 always on hand to such a successful extent 
 as is described. Says one, recounting a 
 visit to the place : 
 
 "Taft's is a great institution, and the 
 person who visits Boston and does not go 
 there has seen, or rather eaten, nothing. 
 
 The fish dinners gotten up at that famous 
 resort are not equalled, probably, anywhere 
 in the world. Mr. Taft is an old gentle- 
 man of over seventy, thin and tall as a rail, 
 with snow-white hair. He is the greatest 
 enthusiast we ever saw. It is a sight to 
 see him bring in dish after dish, every one 
 prepared under his personal superintend- 
 ence, and carry it around the table for the 
 inspection of every guest. His face is all 
 aglow with pride and excitement and his 
 features plainly say: 'What do you think 
 oftht? Isn't it magnificent?' We asked 
 him were he learned to cook. 'My mother 
 chucked me under the kitchen table when 
 I was three weeks old and there I stayed,' 
 was his answer; and we believe him. Din- 
 ners of twenty and more courses are com- 
 mon occurrences' here, and the charges are 
 not exorbitant. The old gentleman was 
 asked why he brought the 'turbot,' which 
 he claims is the finest fish, in the world, 
 first on the table. 'Ah,' he replied, 'the 
 best, to be fully appreciated, must always 
 be eaten when the appetite is keenest ; then 
 you relish it immensely.' Logic which 
 certainly proved correct in our case, for we 
 thought that turbot the finest thing we 
 had ever tasted." 
 
 Taft has a printed bill of fare or card of 
 what can be had at his establishment, in 
 which it is his pride to enumerate nearly 
 all the edible birds and fishes, ending with 
 humming birds served in nut shells. The 
 list has been printed in the newspapers as 
 a curiosity frequently. It would be impos- 
 sible to give a more graphic and interest- 
 ing account of the man and the place, or 
 particulars more readable to restaurateurs 
 than this from the Philadelphia Ne-vs. It 
 is better than a lecture on restaurant-keep- 
 ing. This writer remarks : 
 
 " 'Taft does not serve general meals as 
 does a restaurant,' " but it does not imply 
 that Taft's is not the truest kind of a res- 
 taurant, it is one devoted to the specialties 
 of fish and game, the very opposite of the 
 table d'hote ; a place where ' you can easily 
 run your bill up to forty or fifty dollars' 
 for dinner.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 81 
 
 " Boston has what I consider the greatest 
 gastronomic prize in the world in Taft's. 
 The name stands for both the man and the 
 place. I can truthfully say of it that the 
 bon -civant who confesses ignorance to his 
 and its existence has no right to claim 
 that he has lived. Taft? I hear you say. 
 I don't suppose there are a hundred men 
 in Philadelphia who ever heard the name 
 before, and yet it is the only place in the 
 wide world where you can obtain any 
 edible fish that swims, perfectly cooked. 
 Only one divinely inspired can cook a fish. 
 A man of fair culinary education can ac- 
 complish marvels with meats and vege- 
 tables and sweetmeats, but how few of 
 even our famous chefs can give a fish that 
 delicate treatment without which it has no 
 temptation for the educated palate. At 
 Gloucester, in the planked shad, we have 
 a dish that should stand second in the list 
 of piscatorial delicacies. The first place 
 should unquestionably be given to the tur- 
 bot as cooked at Taft's. 
 
 "Taft is a white-haired octogenarian 
 who owns a roomy frame structure on the 
 shore of the Atlantic Ocean at Point 
 Shirley, seven miles from Boston. I took 
 dinner there two weeks ago, but it lives in 
 my memory as vividly as though it were 
 yesterday. I can never forget it. Old 
 Taft entertained us for some time when 
 we entered the parlor with reminiscences 
 of the famous men who have visited his 
 house. When Charles Dickens was in 
 this country he and Nathanial Hawthorne, 
 Henry W. Longfellow, Charles Sumner 
 and John W. Forney frequently sat to- 
 gether in one of the little dining rooms. 
 Taft takes great delight in exhibiting the 
 treasures of his larder. Men who have 
 visited his house send him trophies of the 
 gun and rod from every quarter of the 
 globe. I thought I would nonplus him 
 when he proudly said : ' Gentlemen, I can 
 furnish you with any edible fish or bird 
 that you may name.' 1 said: ' Have you 
 any reed birds?" He looked at me quiz- 
 zically and said : You are from Philadel- 
 phia? ' I said : ' What makes you think so? ' 
 
 ' Because,' he replied, ' it is the only place 
 in this country where you get reed birds 
 except here,' and he held up a bunch of 
 little bursting balls of golden fat the 
 little cherubs that the Philadelphia epicure 
 bows down before and worships. He 
 showed me even plump little humming 
 birds, each one snugly packed in the half 
 of an English walnut shell. But his dis- 
 play of fish! It makes my mouth water to 
 simply think of the tempting sight. He 
 had every finny delicacy I had ever heard 
 of and many that were entirely new to 
 me, even by name. ' Try again,' he said 
 to me, laughingly. ' Perhaps you can 
 name a fish I haven't got.' I naturally 
 thought that the simplest of all, and yet 
 one of the sweetest, would be forgotten in 
 this wonderful array, and so I said : ' I 
 want some Schuylkill catfish.' 
 
 " ' Now I know you are from Philadel- 
 phia,' he said, smilingly, as he reached far 
 down in a big ice box and produced a 
 string of our humble ' catties.' 
 
 " Taft does not serve general meals as 
 does a restaurant. He will provide you 
 with a strictly fish dinner or a strictly 
 game dinner or a combination of both. 
 For the fish dinner, which is really a cul- 
 inary marvel, he charges two dollars with- 
 out wines. For what he terms his ' regu- 
 lar' game dinner he charges three dollars 
 and a half, but if you wish to select from 
 his larder what you wish you can very 
 easily run your bill up to forty or fifty 
 dollars, even though there are but three or 
 four in the party. The dinner I partook 
 of was especially ordered, and was a com- 
 bination of both fish and game. I want to 
 say right here by way of apology for the 
 tale I have to tell that the appetites of my- 
 self and companions had been sharpened 
 to a keen edge by a carriage ride of seven 
 and a half miles in a nipping and an eager 
 air,' salted with the spray that the wind 
 swept in from the bosom of the broad 
 Atlantic. 
 
 " We began the feast by each one con- 
 suming about fifty steamed clams not the 
 tough little morsels that we call delicacies,
 
 82 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 but the long, soft shell tid-bits, of which 
 you eat only the sweet morsels at the end 
 after you have dipped it in melted butter. 
 Fifty are looked upon as constituting only 
 a moderate appetizer. Each dish that fol- 
 lowed this was labeled by a small card 
 bearing in letters of gold the name of the 
 subject about to be discussed and held in 
 place and aloft by a toothpick piercing 
 both the card and the fish or bird, which- 
 ever the dish happened to be. The first 
 dish proved the piece de resistance. It was 
 a large turbot. The card bore this legend : 
 
 TAFT'S TURBOT. 
 KING OF THE SEA. 
 
 " It was truly a beautiful sight. At the 
 edges it was of a creamy white, that deep- 
 ened on the sides into a golden hue that 
 became gradually richer and richer, until 
 at the top it became a delicate brown. And 
 then what snowy flakes it broke into under 
 the fork I And what sweetness when it 
 entered the mouth! I can truthfully say 
 that I have never eaten fish before. Its 
 memory haunts me still. I confess that 
 M-hen I had fully realized the wonder of 
 that turbot I reached over the table and 
 seized that little card, and I have it before 
 me now. 
 
 " The next fish placed before us was a 
 rock cod, which was excelled in delicacy 
 and sweetness only by the glorious turbot, 
 of which, by the way, we did not leave one 
 morsel. Taft accompanied each dish into 
 the room and for our especial benefit de- 
 livered a brief dissertation on its merits. 
 The rest of the banquet consisted solely 
 of game. The list may make your mouth 
 water. We had chicken grouse and Lake 
 Erie teal, both the finest I ever tasted in 
 my life; jack snipes, ; eeps wee litt'e birds 
 and very toothsome ; reed bids not equal 
 to those of Philadelphia; and last of all 
 humming birds cooked in nut shells. The 
 last were really not worth eating, being 
 dry and tasteless. But I wanted to say 
 that I had eaten a humming bird, and now 
 I can say it. Taken altogether, it was a 
 
 banquet fit for the gods, and it made me 
 feel glad that I was permitted to live and 
 to be at point Shirley!" 
 
 THE RESTAURANT STEWARD AND THE 
 MARKET MEN. 
 
 Mr. Taft evidently f xperienced keen en- 
 joyment in his avocation, yet it may be 
 doubted whether he, being practically 
 without competitors, ever knew the su- 
 preme exultation of the city restaurant 
 steward who " get's a scoop " on all his 
 rivals in the business by securing the 
 entire supply of some coveted delicacy and 
 compelling the best patrons of other estab- 
 lishments to come to his place for it. He 
 may have absolutely all the frogs' legs the 
 city contains, and the blissful knowledge 
 that no more can arrive for a week; or all 
 of the early chickens, or the very last 
 quail and partridges. And such being the 
 object of his ambition, he must think of 
 ways to gain the preferences of the market 
 and commission men, for if he fails to 
 make friends of them, unless he has very 
 good private sources of supply from out- 
 side markets, he may as well quit the busi- 
 ness. When a thing is cheap and plenti- 
 ful he will be solicited to buy even if 
 disliked and despised, but then he does not 
 want it; and when it is scarce and in de- 
 mand, he may hear of its being obtainable 
 at this or that restaurant, but if not in the 
 circle of favorites the dealers will take 
 great pains to be " just sold out " every 
 time he tries them. And still his favored 
 rivals are getting all they want from hid- 
 den stores for days in succession. Many 
 a new restaurant that is opened with a dis- 
 play of gilding and plate glass fails of suc- 
 cess through this unconsidered particular 
 of not having a steward or buyer who can 
 secure the good will of the dealers in 
 specialties, the game dealers, fish importers, 
 the merchants who can always obtain 
 everything worth having; not depending 
 i upon the northern markets alone, nor the 
 southern markets alone, but wiring to fifty 
 places if necessary; knowing- where the 
 goods are to be found. Without this com-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 83 
 
 mand of the markets, and the co-operation 
 of the market merx the restaurant fai's 
 from inability to "fill the bill." After 
 two or three disappointments the most 
 profitable patrons become chagrined and 
 pass the place by with the contemptuous 
 remark: "Oh, you can never find anything 
 there." 
 
 HOW TO "STAND IN 1 ' WITH THE MARKET 
 MEN. 
 
 The surest and best way to secure favors 
 from the dealers is to be in a measure in- 
 dependent of them by opening communi- 
 cation with the same sources of supply 
 which they draw from, at least often 
 enough to show them that their withhold- 
 ing of supplies in favor of old friends will 
 not have the effect of destroying the new 
 restaurant, which may possibly, by reach- 
 ing out, even gain advantages over all the 
 older houses, and wake them up to a 
 realizing sense that they don't yet own the 
 tarth. This, however, is only possible 
 with a command of capital to stand occa- 
 sional losses. Some, having but a limited 
 business, can join another party, or several 
 whose places are far enough apart not to 
 compete, and import profitably that which 
 one alone could not afford. 
 
 Next best way to secure a fair share and 
 even a preference in what is going, is to 
 pay cash on the spot. Old friendships and 
 well-ripened business relationships may be 
 strong, but cash in hand will draw the 
 last and best thing from the darkest back 
 corner of the refrigerator when the other 
 fellow is not looking, nevertheless. 
 
 To stand well with the market men it is 
 not necessary to attempt bribery, or to buy 
 favors in that way. There is a good deal 
 in having a pleasing address and sociable 
 ways, but there is a kind of reciprocal 
 accommodation which these dealers, being 
 business men, appreciate above everything 
 else they want the buying steward to 
 help them out occasionally when their 
 enterprise has led them to bring on too 
 much stock which threatens to spoil on 
 their hands. They will not urge the man 
 
 they have sometimes favored with the 
 things that were scarcest to help to unload 
 them in a glut, but if on once asking he 
 does not see what is the matter, and do 
 what he can afford by taking more or less, 
 they are liable to remember it against him 
 at some future time when perhaps they 
 wil have the only basket of turkeys or 
 sucking pigs in the whole city, and he 
 wants them badly. 
 
 KEEPING PROVISIONS. 
 
 Not the least of the means of keeping 
 abreast with the foremost in the trade is a 
 thorough knowledge of how to keep pro- 
 visions after they have been procured. 
 The best restaurants have refrigerators of 
 special make, cold rooms, fitted with 
 drawers and shelves in which prepared 
 provisions are kept awaiting orders to cook 
 them. In some places the main depend- 
 ence is upon large ice boxes containing 
 broken ice, and cotton sacks full of small 
 quantities of such things as are not injured 
 by being kept wet are buried deep in the 
 ice where they keep for a Lng time. 
 
 A FIRST-CLASS RESTAURANT BILL OF 
 FARE. 
 
 Regarded as reading matter a bill of fare 
 may not have very strong claims upon the 
 attention, but as showing what need the 
 restaurateur has of extensive acquaintance 
 with the markets and of ways and means 
 of keeping a vast number of articles in 
 good condition when secured, the grand 
 bill of fare here shown must prove an ob- 
 ject of lasting interest. Merel y as a list of 
 dishes for the composition of bills of fare 
 it will be found useful ; as a list of prices 
 charged where prices are the highest it 
 will serve to brace up the timid ones who 
 don't know how to charge. Tw . dollars 
 and a half,- it must be admitted is a good 
 " live and let live " price for a beefsteak 
 see the list of " Dishes to Order." A por- 
 tion of the price of every dish in this place 
 was needed, however, to pay for the music 
 of Gilmore's band playing outside.
 
 84 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 Manhattan Beach Hotel. 
 
 Guests will please Pay their Checks to the Waiters, and see that Prices 
 charged correspond with those on Bill of Fare. 
 
 BILL. OF FARE. 
 
 , CTTJIDsnE 14, 18 - 
 
 SHELL FISH 
 
 Little Neck clams on half shell .................. 25 
 
 Clams, stewed ................................... 40 
 
 fried 
 
 Clam, roasted .................................... 40 
 
 " Little Neck, roasted ....................... 50 
 
 steamed .................................... 40 
 
 fritters ................................... 40 Plain lobster ..................................... 40 
 
 Soft shell crabs .................................. 50 
 
 Consomme 1 
 Clam chowder 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 25 Printanier Royal 
 25 Mock Turtle 
 
 FISH 
 
 Baked bluefish. wine sauce ............... 45 
 
 Eels, tartar sauce ................................ 50 
 
 Striped bass, broiled ............................. 40 
 
 Bluefish " ............................. 4 
 
 Sheepshead ............................. 5 
 
 Fresh codfish " ........................... 40 
 
 Fresh codfish, hollandaise ....................... 50 
 
 Boiled sheepshead, hollandaise ........... 60 
 
 Connecticut River salmon broikd ................ 50 
 
 Spanish mackerel " ................ 50 
 
 Blackfish " ................ 40 
 
 Sea bass " ................ 40 
 
 Filet of sole, tartar or tomato sauce .............. 50 
 
 BOILED 
 
 Leg of mutton, caper sauce ...................... 50 
 
 Corned beef and cabbage ........................ 45 
 
 Ox tongue with spinach ......................... 45 
 
 Turkey with pork ............................... 60 
 
 Chicken, Florentine sauce ....................... 75 
 
 Ribs of Beef 
 Lamb, mint sauce 
 Spring turkey... j 
 
 ROAST 
 
 40 I Spring 1 chicken with cresses, whole 
 50 half 
 
 60 | Ham glac6, champagne sauce 
 
 ENTREES 
 
 Blanquette of Veal a la Poulette ............. . ......... 60 
 
 Poulet saut6 a 1'Estragon .............................. 75 
 
 Lamb's Kidneys a ITtalienne .......................... 60 
 
 Lobster Croquettes aux fines herbes ................... 60 
 
 Frog's Legs sautes a la Hollandaise 
 
 60 
 
 CAME 
 
 50 
 English snipe, on toast .......................... 50 
 
 Philadelphia squab... .......................... 60 
 
 Plover, on toast .................................. 60 
 
 VEGETABLES 
 
 Potatoes, boiled.., ............ 10 I Potatoes, a la Parisienne ...... 20 
 
 " fried .................. 10 I " a la Lyonnaise ....... 20 
 
 " Saratoga ............. 10 | Boiled rice ..................... 15 
 
 mashed .............. 10 
 
 a la mattre d'hOtel.... 15 
 
 sautes ................ J$ 
 
 Stewed tomatoes ............... 20 
 
 Green peas .................... 25 
 
 Asparagus ..................... 25 
 
 New beets ..................... 20 
 
 Macaroni a 1'Italienne ......... 25 
 
 Spaghetti ...................... 30 
 
 French peas ................... 35 
 
 Stuffed tomatoes ............... 30 
 
 Canned corn 
 
 French string beans ............ 35 
 
 String beans ................... .25 
 
 SALADS, RELISHES, ETC. 
 
 Lettuce, plain dressing .......................... 25 
 
 with egg ................................ 30 
 
 with mayonnaise ........................ 35 
 
 Potato salid ..................................... 20 
 
 Sliced tomatoes .................................. 25 
 
 Tomato salad, mayonnaise ....................... 35 
 
 Cucumbers ......... . ............................ 20 
 
 Watercress ...................................... 20 
 
 Currantjelly .................................... 15 
 
 French or English pickles ....................... 15 
 
 Chow chow ..................................... 15 
 
 Olives ........................................... 15 
 
 Pickled beets .................................... 10 
 
 Radishes ........................................ 10
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 85 
 
 PASTRY AND ICE CREAMS 
 
 Charlotte nisse iS I Eclairs 15 
 
 Apple pie 15 Lady fingers 15 
 
 Peach pie 5 Fancy cakes ao 
 
 Pineapple pie 15 Blanc mange 20 
 
 Custard pie 15 Cabinet padding ao 
 
 Rum Jelly 25 
 
 Chocolate ice cream 25 | Lemon ice 25 
 
 Vanilla or strawberry ice cream 25 Tulli Frutti 25 
 
 Meringue glacee o I 
 
 FRUIT DESSERT CHEESE 
 
 Strawberries and cream 25 Pecan nuts 15 American 10 
 
 Oranges 20 Almonds 15 Knglish 15 
 
 Rum omelette 35 Mixed nuts 25 Swiss 20 
 
 Kaisms 20 Neufchatel 20 
 
 Stilton 25 
 
 PRESERVED FRUIT 
 
 Strawberries 25 Brandy peaches 35 
 
 Ginger 25 White cherries 25 
 
 Damsons 25 Orange marmalade 25 
 
 COLD DISHES 
 
 Roast beef 40 Corned beef 40 Chicken salad .65 
 
 " turkey 60 Ham 40 Lobster sauid 50 
 
 " lamb 50 Beef tongue 401 " plain 40 
 
 Half chicken 60 | | Sardines 35 
 
 Ham sandwuh 15 Tonsrue sandwich 15 
 
 Corned beef sandwich 15 Chicken sandwich aj 
 
 DISHES TO ORDER 
 
 Beefsteak, plain 50 Squab broiled with cress 60 
 
 " \vithonions 60 " with peas 80 
 
 " wilh mushrooms 75 Sweetbread broiled 70 
 
 Sirloin steak 75 " k la mace'doine 75 
 
 " " with mushrooms I oo with Frem h peas 85 
 
 Tenderloin steak So " with mushrooms i oo 
 
 " " wirh madeira sauce 90 Mutton chops 50 
 
 " " with mushrooms I oo sauce piquante 60 
 
 " a la Bordelaise 150 with peas 70 
 
 " " with truffles i 50 " a la jardiniere 70 
 
 Filet Chateaubriand, plain i 50 Lamb chops, plain 60 
 
 " with mushrooms 200 " a la Soubise 75 
 
 " " a la Trianon 225 Calf's head a la vinaigrette 50 
 
 " " with truffles 250 , a la poulette 50 
 
 Porterhouse steak, plain i 25 " en tortue 80 
 
 " with mushrooms i 75 Chicken broiled on toast (half) 60 
 
 " " extra large, plain 200 " saute with mushrooms i oo 
 
 " " " mush rooms.... 2 50 " " a la bordelaise i oo 
 
 Veal Cutlet, plain 50 " " a la Marengo 125 
 
 breaded, tomato sauce oo Welsh rarebit 40 
 
 " a 1'Italienne bo Golden Buck 50 
 
 " en papillote 70 Soft shell crabs 50 
 
 Frog's Legs breaded 50 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS 
 
 Cream toast 35 French or graham bread 10 Boston brown bread 10 
 
 Milk toast 20 Bread and milk 25 Plain bread 10 
 
 Dipped toast 15 Tea biscuit 15 Cream, per glass 20 
 
 Dry toast 10 Milk, per glass 10 
 
 Oolong tea, per cup 10 Green or Japan tea, Chocolate, per cup 15 
 
 per pot 20 per pot only. ..... 20 " per pot 25 
 
 Eng. Breakfast tea, per cup.. ..10 I Broma, per cup 15 Coffee, per cup 10 
 
 " " per pot. ...20 I " per pot 25 " per pot..., 20 
 
 Iced Coffee, per glass 15 
 
 Iced Tea, per glass 15
 
 86 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 A FEW ENTREES AND A LITTLE MAN- 
 AGEMENT. 
 
 No matter how high the prices or how 
 wealthy the establishment, it is found most 
 difficult to keep a restaurant strictly on the 
 "cooked to order" method; provisions, 
 however well cooked, will remain uncalled 
 for and must either be lost in large aggre- 
 gate quantities or turned to the use of a 
 regular dinner. Delmonico claims that 
 consideration of the great loss of provisions 
 which must be of the best, must be kept in 
 readiness, yet must be parted with if in the 
 least deteriorated, as his reply to the charge 
 of keeping the dearest restaurant in the 
 world. We see in this great bill of fare, 
 
 therefore, five fresh entrees every day, and 
 scanning them with the eyes of experience 
 we may find a judicious use to-day has been 
 made of some good things which did not sell 
 in the other lists where they appeared the 
 day before. That much is borrowed from 
 the hotel plan. A few good entrees are 
 made and offered without waiting for the 
 accident of their being ordered, and in that 
 way they always sell well to the people 
 who would much rather have somebody 
 get dinner ready for them and call them 
 to it than have the trouble of planning and 
 ordering a dinner themselves. 
 
 This is the list of entrees which appeared 
 the next day after the former bill, and 
 shows the only changes made in the en- 
 tire list 
 
 ENTREES 
 
 Filet of beef larded a la Jardiniere 70 
 
 Epigram me of spring lamb, tomato sauce .....60 
 
 Calf's brains breaded, sauce tartare 65 
 
 Vol-an-vent of chicken a la Financiere 80 
 
 Philadelphia squab, en crapaudine 70 
 
 The wine list printed on the fourth page 
 of the original bill of fare folder was in 
 small type as voluminous of items as the 
 dinner list inside and the front page was 
 taken up with the programme of the grand 
 concerts. 
 
 THE MERCHANTS' LUNCH HOUSE. 
 
 Of a contrary description is the mer- 
 chants' lunch house a kind of restaurant 
 that thrives by the necessities and not the 
 luxuries of its patrons. One that is not 
 obliged to secure new and inviting comes- 
 tibles and not obliged to command the 
 markets nor carry a varied stock. The 
 lunch house restaurant is useful rather 
 than ornamental ; not sought for pleasure, 
 but through the driving necessity of taking 
 in some sustenance without delay. To 
 live and be a business success it must be 
 located in the most densely packed portion 
 of the city, in cramped quarters and 
 pinched-up places on valuable ground, but 
 easily accessible; then it must furnish 
 something to eat and drink it makes but 
 little difference what for the men whose 
 pursuits are such as to prevent their going 
 
 far for their mid-day meal. There may be 
 added to the main dining hall or counter, 
 or whatever the feeding place may con- 
 sist of, a few private rooms, perhaps an 
 upstairs dining room with some pretensions 
 to elegance, where men of some leisure or 
 merchants who take a country customer 
 to dinner may have a table to themselves 
 and at least half of a waiter's attention. 
 These conditions being secured a plain 
 man with plain business sense may make 
 an income which runs up into the thou- 
 sands each year without much hard work 
 or anxiety; without attracting the least 
 notice or even bare recognition from his 
 constant customers, who only come to his 
 place because it is the nearest and is not 
 very bad. This sort of a house has no 
 business on Sundays and may as well close 
 on that day as not. The few essentials to 
 make it successful in the matters of the 
 table are that it furnish the best of beef 
 plainly cooked, the best of coffee, best 
 butter and bread. All sorts of extras, of 
 course, are offered and a good deal sold of 
 fish and games and the ordinary pastries, 
 but nobody's reputation is affected whether
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK 
 
 87 
 
 ARTICLES HAYING NO PRICE ATTACHED NOT SERVED TO-DAY. 
 
 BOIS BLANC'S 
 RESTAURANT AND MERCHANTS > LUNCH. 
 
 SOUP. 
 
 Beef Broth , 15 Bean 15 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Boiled Fresh Cod, Egg Sauce 35 Yellow Perch 
 
 Trout Steak White Fish, broiled or fried 
 
 Fresh Mackerel Yellow Pike 
 
 Spanish Mackerel Fresh Salmon 
 
 Black Bass Boiled Haddock, with Oyster Sauce 
 
 COLD MEATS. 
 
 Lobster Salad 30 Potato Salad 15 
 
 Chicken Salad 30 Shrimp Salad 40 
 
 Bean Salad 25 Pickled Lamb's Tongue 25 
 
 Pressed Corned Beef 25 Baldwin Ham 25 
 
 Smoked Tongue 25 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 New England Boiled Dinner 35 Cod Fish Balls 
 
 Irish Stew with Vegetables 30 Beef a la mode 
 
 Baked Chicken Pie Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce 
 
 Chicken Friraseed on Dry Toast Poik and Beans., 25 
 
 Tenderloin of Beef with Onions Chicken Giblets on Toast 
 
 Pigs' Feet Boiled Turkey, with Oyster Sauce 40 
 
 Honey Comb Tripe, Tomato Sauce Boiled Chicken, with Salt Pork 
 
 Baked Macaroni with Cheese .15 Corned Beef Hash, with One Poached Egg 35 
 
 Minred Turkey, with One Poached Egg Turkey Wings, Stewed, with Vegetables 
 
 Chicken Pot Pie 35 Pork Tenderloin, with Fried Apples 35 
 
 Pigeon Pot Pie Veal Cutlets, Breaded 
 
 ROASTS. 
 
 Loin of Beef 35 Pork, Apple Sauce 
 
 Veal, Stuffed Young Spring Chicken 
 
 Rib Ends of Beef 25 Turkey, Cranberry Sauce 
 
 Venison, Cranberry Sauce 40 Young Goose, Cranberry Sauce 
 
 Saddle of Mutton Canvass Back Duck 
 
 Teal Duck, with Jelly Mallard Duck 
 
 VEGETABLES 
 
 Mashed Potatoes Elgin Corn Succotash I Sugar Beets 10 
 
 Asparagus on Toast.. 15 Squash 10 Stewed Tomatoes 10 ' Baked Sweet 
 
 Lima Beans I Young Onions Fried Parsnips Potatoes IO 
 
 Boiled Onions 10 1 Potatoes Turnips, mashed 10 
 
 RELISHES 
 
 Cucumber Catsup 1 Sweet Pickles i Cold Slaw I Worcestershire Sauce, 
 
 Tabasco Sauce | Tomato Catsup | | 
 
 PUDDING AND PIES. 
 
 Granula Pudding, Vanilla Sauce 10 
 
 Mince Pie, 10. Apple Pie, 10. Custard Pie. 
 
 Lemon Pie. Cranberry Pie. Pumpkin Pie, 10 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 Codfish Tongues on Toast Shrimps, per plate 
 
 Scollops Sardines, per box 
 
 Frogs' Legs " " for two 
 
 Fresh Lobster, whole Soft Crabs, per pair 
 
 " half 
 
 TEA, COFFEE AND CHOCOLATE. 
 
 French Coffee, per pot 25 Coffee, per cup IO 
 
 with Cognac " " pot, for one 15 
 
 Tea, per Cup 10 " " " " two 35 
 
 " pot, for one 15 Chocolate, per cup 15 
 
 " " " " two 25 per pot, for one 25 
 
 " " " two 40 
 
 ALL FANCY AND MIXED DRINKS, CALL FOR. 
 
 Budweiser Beer, Qts 30 cents; Pints 30 cents. 
 
 Best's Milwaukee Lager Beer 10 cents.
 
 88 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 such dishes are good or not, or whether 
 genuine or mere imitations and substitutes, 
 and one who would try to carry out ideas 
 of a better order of things would be left 
 behind by duller competitors who are 
 better fitted for the position. In short, the 
 busy merchants, insurance men, lawyers, 
 agents of all sorts, and proprietors of every 
 business in the heart of a city experience 
 a difficulty in finding a suitable lunch place, 
 for the reason that in the locality where 
 most wanted the rents are generally too 
 high for lunch houses to pay ; when some 
 man does get a footing in such a place his 
 custom is assured from the first with only 
 a small effort on his part; his struggle is 
 not to make his house and table most ex- 
 cellent, but to make it pay the rent and 
 himself. 
 
 Such a necessity for a place to take a 
 rapid lunch was felt by an enterprising 
 firm of liquor merchants in Chicago some 
 years back, and with more thought for the 
 convenience of the thing than the rent 
 value of the rooms they gave a restaurant 
 man a chance by letting him have the 
 necessary space in their own building at a 
 nominal rent, and by the time they became 
 tired of the rather one-sided arrangement, 
 which was at the end of three years when 
 they took charge of the place themselves, 
 the restaurant man had deposited in the 
 bank ten thousand dollars as his net pro- 
 fits. That on the preceding page was his 
 bill of fare. He served no breakfasts and 
 did not keep open on Sunday. 
 
 The bill was not too good, but just good 
 enough ; the prices were not too high, but 
 just high enough. Nothing admirable 
 about it further than that it is the bill oi 
 fare of a Chicago Merchants' Lunch that 
 succeeded. 
 
 The same bill of fare would fit equally 
 well another one of Chicago's most suc- 
 cessful lunch house restaurants; Thomp- 
 son's, however, very conveniently situatec 
 with plenty of room in a building to itself 
 Said the chief cook of the place to the 
 writer, one day: "Yes, we serve all of 
 
 three thousand meals a day; they are 
 nearly all to regular customers; never 
 enough strangers among them to make 
 any particular difference. We don't stop 
 to garnish our dishes with parsley and 
 lemons, you know, but what we give 'em 
 is good, and we manage to give most of 
 our customers seats at the tables; and I 
 think the reason we do one of the biggest 
 businesses of the kind is because we serve 
 the meals quicker than any other place 
 can. Why, good lord, sir! I can't tell 
 you how we serve them quicker; but I 
 have six carvers and each one has a rib 
 roast of beef before him, and it seems to 
 me they must carve a dish of beef apiece 
 every two seconds, and that's about as fast 
 as the people can come in at the doors 
 roast beef and mashed potatoes is thirty- 
 five cents an order; if you want to count 
 up, you can as for me, you know, every- 
 body doesn't take roast beef and what they 
 do take, why that falls on me to look after- 
 with my other men. About thirty hands 
 in the kitchen is what we have, and thirty 
 or forty waiters, but some of them only 
 work through dinner time." 
 
 Here, too, the breakfasts, though consid- 
 erable, were light in comparison with the 
 noon lunches or dinners. The proprietor 
 of the place (recently deceased) was the 
 owner of the building, a very valuable one 
 of which he used only the lower floor for 
 his lunch house business, and, besides, died 
 possessed of $150,000, said to have been 
 made in the restauraurant business, which 
 he kept by him in cash. He was an illit- 
 erate man, and was afiaid to trust his 
 money to the banks. 
 
 An4 close by for all three of these 
 places were situated in the same block 
 was a "fine" restaurant, where they did 
 garnish their dishes and served every 
 delicacy to order, and did really good work ; 
 but its patronage was small, and it changed 
 proprietors three times in two years. It 
 was the right kind of a restaurant in the 
 wrong place, except for the demands of 
 the few.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 89 
 
 THE BAKERY LUNCH. 
 
 One of the greatest successes among 
 Chicago lunch businesses is remarkable for 
 the narrow compass in which it is carried 
 on and the lack of any outward indications 
 that would lead a stranger to suspect its 
 existence, much less to surmise the im- 
 mense extent of the feeding done on the 
 premises. It is a narrow store building 
 with ordinary bake-shop windows showing 
 some bread and cakes and no other sign. 
 But signs are needless, the place within is 
 taxed to its fullest capacity in every inch 
 of space to meet the demands of a singing 
 multitude of pie eaters, and no more can 
 be accommodated; no more can get in. 
 The pressure begins at twelve o'clock each 
 day, and some of the more ingenious or 
 less restrained among the customers man- 
 age their business so as to resort there for 
 their pie and milk between the hours of 
 eleven and twelve, and so avoid waiting in 
 line for the stool of their choice; after 
 noon and until two o'clock there is no 
 other chance, but to stand and wait for a 
 turn, loving the men in "front who take 
 custard pie, because they can swallow it 
 quickly and move on, and hating them 
 that give the unusual order for ham sand- 
 wiches, two courses of apple dumplings or 
 meringoes and iced coffee with a straw, 
 because that means delay for the men who 
 stand behind. 
 
 Great stories have been told of the 
 enormous amounts of pastry of all kinds 
 consumed at this principal bakery lunch 
 house of the city, and the hundreds of 
 thousands of customers served each year, 
 but this is not to our purpose. There is a 
 suggestion in it, however, that almost 
 every town of consequence would support 
 well a bakery lunch house carried on in 
 the right way: serving the very best of 
 pastries of all varieties in liberal portions 
 at a small price. The profit on each cus- 
 tomer is necessarily small, but the aggre- 
 gate, like the two cent stamp business of a 
 post office, soon runs up to hundreds and 
 thousands.. The various pastries and cakes 
 
 are produced in these large and successful 
 establishments by the best bakery machin- 
 ery and baked in rotary ovens of enormous 
 capacity. It is often asked why such 
 crowding as these places show should be 
 allowed; why more roomy quarters are 
 not provided and better accommodations. 
 But, probably, the conditions noted are the 
 only ones possible ; to attempt to change 
 the business would destroy it. It is the 
 public need that builds np such a trade; 
 the men who own the business do not 
 make the tide, they only ride upon it. 
 
 THE PLACE AND NOT THE MAN. 
 
 Examples of successful places where the 
 man and his efforts amount to nothing, 
 but the location is everything, are plenti- 
 ful enough. Here is a sample of a curious 
 kind of business dependent only upon the 
 time and place, mentioned by a foreign 
 correspondent: 
 
 " One of the minor industries in the Pa- 
 risian catering trade is that of the vendors 
 of milk in the early hours of the morning, 
 who are to be found under the fortes- 
 cochere of a house in almost every street, 
 and who supply the public with cafe-au- 
 lait, chocolate, hot milk, crescents and 
 rolls, besides cold milk. The hot drinks 
 can be consumed on the premises, a bench 
 or two and a table being at the customer's 
 disposition, fn some parts of the town 
 these enterprising ladies do a rattling busi- 
 ness in spite of the short hours allotted to 
 them, and the comparatively high rents 
 they have to pay. In the house where I 
 live, the laitiere pays ten pounds, about 
 $48.50, per annum for the use of the door- 
 way and entrance for two hours every 
 morning, from 5.30 to 7.30, and yet I be- 
 lieve she does a famous business. In other 
 parts of the town the rent is still higher, 
 rising to twenty pounds per annum in very 
 crowded thoroughfares. The prices are 
 id. a cup of hot milk, and i^d. for a large 
 bowl of hot coffee and milk, or chocolate." 
 
 But that is very much like our southern 
 "French market" stands, the rents in the 
 market stalls being high enough for the 
 few morning hours they are occupied. 
 
 THE MAN AND NOT THE PLACE. 
 
 On the other hand here is a present 
 instance of a man changing utter disaster 
 into remarkable success in spite of the
 
 90 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 place. When prohibition struck Atlanta 
 with the usual inevitable effect of breaking 
 up many a prosperous man's business, it 
 extinguished for a moment the proprietor 
 of one of the best, most respectable and 
 most profitable bars on the main street of 
 the city, and, likewise, his popular head 
 barkeeper, whose occupation certainly 
 was gone completely. The building, like 
 scores of others, seemed to be of no further 
 use, was dismantled of its bar fixtures and 
 stood deserted. But an idea struck the 
 proprietor to open a merchants' lunch and 
 restaurant in the place, and his popular 
 barkeeper should be the steward. Neither 
 of them had had restaurant experience, 
 but the owner had capital and business 
 capacity, the amateur steward had a pleas- 
 ing face and a real interest in making 
 everybody feel well, and their success has 
 been amazing. The city is spoken of far 
 and wide as one that will not support a 
 good restaurant; the business has been 
 tried time and again, before and since, and 
 everybody fails except these whilom liquor 
 sellers. Their place has progressed from 
 stove to small range; from that to large 
 range; from that to hot- water tanks and 
 steam-cooking and a hot carving table; 
 from that to renting a run-down sort of 
 boarding house up stairs and changing the 
 whole thing into a fine " European Hotel." 
 When the prohibition legislation was re- 
 pealed this place did not go back to the old 
 bar business as others did with a rush, but 
 keeps on in the new line of success. Nat- 
 ural adaptation to the business is the secret 
 of success in this case, both men know 
 what is good themselves, and buy only 
 what is good, and if the jolly ex-barkeeper, 
 now steward, is the cheerful giver, the 
 owner is the careful manager, and they are 
 both in love with what they are doing. It 
 would be space wasted to print their bill of 
 fare their show window is their best card, 
 nor would it profit to repeat the stories 
 told of the large amount of money made, 
 such are always exaggerated, sufficient it is 
 to know that their success is of the sub- 
 stantial kind that satisfies them. 
 
 THE BAR ROOM FREE LUNCH. 
 
 And yet, after all, perhaps the bartender 
 of the preceding instance gained an insight 
 of the restaurant business through the 
 practice prevalent in some cities of serving 
 a roast-beef -and-trimmings lunch free to 
 patrons of the bar. New Orleans is called 
 the original home of the free lunch, and it 
 is true to-day that the best lunch obtain- 
 able in that city can be had at the bar- 
 rooms; not free to all, but upon payment 
 of fifteen cents for drinks of some kind at 
 the counter. There is a soup, fish, roast 
 beef of the very best quality, salads of 
 beets and potatoes, and bread. The best 
 cooks find easy employment on these hot 
 lunches and similar midnight suppers. The 
 excellence of the repasts furnished at such 
 merely nominal rates has much to do with 
 the making New Orleans the poor hotel 
 city it is known to be. The stranger in 
 the city who does not know of the free hot 
 lunches at the liquor palaces knows noth- 
 ing. New Orleans has been famous for 
 its restaurants, also, but the reports vary 
 according to the humor or the good or bad 
 fortune of some visitor who writes about 
 them. To avoid going over old ground, 
 to show that restaurants are the same the 
 world over and that the same complaints 
 fit St. Petersburg that would apply to New 
 Orleans let us append this growl of an 
 Englishman in 
 
 A RUSSIAN RESTAURANT: 
 
 " If, however, you wish to attempt one 
 of the fashionable restaurants in the Great 
 Morskaia, two hospitable houses on either 
 side of the way open wide their tempting 
 portals. Which shall it be? Desseaux on 
 the right, or Borel on the left? Scylla over 
 the way, or Charybdis on this tide? For 
 surely neither Scylla nor Charybdis ever 
 seized the unwary traveller with such 
 irresistible force, or devoured him to such 
 good purpose. . 
 
 "Entering Desseaux's 'Restaurant des 
 Nobles,' you are received with civility 
 amounting to obsequiousness. One small 
 waiter relieves you of hat and stick; an- 
 other, a little larger, removes your great- 
 coat; and a third, quite full-sized and rather 
 fat, awaits your instruct'ons with a winning
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 91 
 
 smile and many low bows. ' Nyet Russki ' 
 should be your first remark ; and the fact 
 of your being a stranger being thus ascer- 
 tained, No. 3 disappears and fetches the 
 linguist of the establishment, a very portly 
 man, who asks you for your orders in fair 
 French. An habitue would reply, ' A 
 plain soup, a mutton cutlet done, on the 
 grid, a roast gelinotte and salad, Russian 
 beer ; ' but you, a stranger, overawed by the 
 stout linguist, by his magnificent shirt- 
 front, and above all by the morocco-bound, 
 gilt-edged, brass-clasped bill of fare, as for- 
 midable as a family Bible, which he holds 
 out for your inspection, will not think of 
 ordering so simple a dinner. And if you 
 have an inclination that way, the sight of 
 three huge champagne-coolers, containing 
 long-necked bottles, which grace a table 
 occupied by a couple of young Guardsmen 
 in their gorgeous uniform, will remind 
 you that you did not come to Desseaux's 
 for a chop and a glass of beer, and that 
 more is expected of you, although you 
 don't know what to order. But some feel- 
 ing akin to pity, some recollection of the 
 days when he too was a stranger in a for- 
 eign land, seems to stir within Mezzofanti's 
 broad bosom. For instead of allowing you 
 to flounder hopelessly through fifty-eight 
 stiff pages of the bill of fare, he kindly helps 
 you by suggesting that perhaps you would 
 Hke le diner du jour; and at the same 
 time he produces an elegant menu, printed 
 in dark-blue on cream-tinted paper with a 
 flowery pink border. The cream-tinted 
 paper appears to you like the flag of hope ; 
 it is the traditional straw at which the 
 drowning man clutches, and you gasp 
 Oui, oui,' hysterically. Thus you have 
 chosen you must eat, not what you like, 
 but what suits Desseaux's pocket; and you 
 drop down on one of the comfortable sofas 
 in the pleasant dining-room, and hear the 
 young Guardsmen exchange opinions (in 
 bad French) about the last new dancer at 
 the Theatre Berg, till soup arrives, and 
 with it another magnificent volume this 
 time the wine-list, naturally open at the 
 page containing champagne at six roubles 
 and upward. But you are not to be taken 
 in, and turning back, select a pint bottle of 
 St. Julien at two roubles a good, safe 
 wine, you imagine you know. After the 
 soup (which is good, but enriched with too 
 many quenelles, croquettes, etc.), and the 
 inevitable petits pate's, you get stewed beef, 
 which you recognise as first cousin to the 
 Rindfleisch of Germany and the bouilli of 
 France; only the latter costs sixpense a 
 plateful, while his Russian relation is more 
 expensive and more stringy. To console 
 
 yourself, you turn to the St. Julien. What 
 is your horror at finding a sweet, fiery 
 compound, of which the curious astrin- 
 gency evidently proceeds from sloes, and 
 which has nothing common with French 
 wine except its color! You proceed natur- 
 ally to sterlet (a small fish of the sturgeon 
 family) a la Jfusse, which perhaps you will 
 like. But after this rich dish you feel the 
 want of a little good wine, and therefore 
 rather indignantly have the pretended St. 
 Julien removed, and order half a bottle of 
 Margaux. Calf s head stewed a lafinan- 
 dere follows, and would be good in its way 
 if it were not too rich, like all Russian 
 dishes. The Margaux now arrives, and 
 proves to be a little more fiery and a little 
 less sweet than the St. Julien, but no more 
 like claret than its predecessor. However, 
 it drinks better when diluted, or perhaps 
 you are getting used to it God forbid the 
 latter! for then your palate is hopelessly 
 blunted, your taste gone, and you will 
 never again appreciate the Sauterne of the 
 Maison Doree or the delicious Lafitte of 
 Bignon! However, a dish of intensely 
 green peas now appears, and you only find 
 out when you try them that they are pre- 
 served, and very badly preserved, too. Ax 
 last comes the roast, and if Desseaux doe* 
 his duty it will be fowl, and not game; for 
 the former is much more expensive, and 
 therefore considered more delicate. Des- 
 seaux does his duty, and you have the 
 pleasure of carving a chicken about the 
 size of a large sparrow, and consisting of 
 skin, bone, and a few stray feathers. This 
 fine bird is accompanied by pickled cu- 
 cumbers, but as both your own aversion 
 and your doctor's orders prevent your par- 
 taking of this Russian substitute for salad, 
 you feel that you have hardly dined, al- 
 though you have finished dinner. You 
 order a little cheese, then coffee and 
 liqueur; and when your bill is brought, 
 you philosophize on how much a man 
 can spend on his dinner without getting 
 enough to eat or anything fit to drink. 
 Here it is : 
 
 Rbs. Kps. 
 
 Diner 3 
 
 Pain 20 
 
 St.Julien 2 
 
 Margaux 3 
 
 CaK 40 
 
 Liqueur, etc 40 
 
 Fromage 40 
 
 ~~9 40, or 1 7s. 
 
 And, let it be added, Desseaux is not by 
 any means the dearest restaurant in St. 
 Petersburg, nor the -worst" 
 
 An odd coincidence! That sketch of a 
 St. Petersburg restaurant brings us back to
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 Manhattan Beach and the great bill of 
 fare. There is the same soup, the same 
 something a la financiered the same diner 
 dujour d nner of the day with perhaps 
 the same five entrees; the same froinage 
 and things at about the same prices and 
 the same wines. The restaurants of that 
 class are all alike. 
 
 THE OYSTER AND FISH RESTAURANT. 
 
 For something different from the con- 
 ventional style of first-class restaurant and 
 which may be claimed as peculiarly Amer- 
 ican, we turn with pleasure to the first 
 class oyster house, very probably the source 
 of more real enjoyment combined with a 
 sufficiency of tone or style than any other 
 class of public eating house whatever ; and 
 as sea foods, in the natural order of things, 
 become the greater luxuries in proportion 
 to their distance from the sea, we shall 
 find the best specimens of the oyster and 
 fish house in the very centers of the con- 
 tinent, in the large cities of the interior, 
 probably nowhere better than in Chicago. 
 All that the famous gourmands and epi- 
 cures named in history could do was to 
 obtain rare and costly kinds of meats and 
 fish, and make them more costly still by 
 obtaining them from immense distances 
 whither their competitors and their purses 
 could not reach, and even the king of 
 romancer, Dumas, could imagine no higher 
 achievement for one of his most sumptu- 
 ous heroes than his feat of procuring a rare 
 and peculiar fish found only in one par- 
 ticular river of the world, brought across 
 the wilds of Russia in a tank of water and 
 landed in Paris alive, to be served at this 
 wonderful entertainer's next reception. 
 The railroads and express service have 
 done much to bring all parts of the country 
 to the same dead level of equality of mar- 
 kets, and yet there is a small fence of ex- 
 clusiveness raised around the inland oyster 
 house by the express charges and "oysters 
 on the half shell," which may be too com- 
 mon at ten cents a dozen at a fish stall on 
 the sea-board for their intrinsic excellence 
 to be really appreciated, when enhanced in 
 
 flavor by so much per pound charged for 
 transporting them a thousand miles or 
 more become a luxury worthy of the mirr- 
 ored marble and mahogany halls and 
 elaborate styles of service and all accesso- 
 ries of the best Chicago oyster houses. 
 
 The fine restaurants make the most of 
 the great American specialty, oysters, in 
 all styles, employing the best cooks in that 
 peculiar line that money can procure and 
 adopting every new device for presenting 
 the lusciou;. bivalve in the most tempting 
 forms. In addition they serve fish of every 
 saleable variety, shell fish such as lobsters, 
 crabs, clams, crayfish, scallops and, since 
 Dumas' fls, salade Japonaise has gained 
 notoriety, the humbler mussel which ent- 
 ers into its composition. Salads of all sorts, 
 but more especially fish salads, are made 
 here in perfection. Very little attention is 
 paid to the ordinary meat dishes of the 
 restaurants, yet a steak or chop with pota- 
 toes can be had if any member of a party 
 happens to have a distaste for fish foods. 
 While these oyster and fish houses do a 
 good business at all times of the day they 
 are in their glory only at night, when, after 
 the ordinary closing hours of business and 
 the closing of theatres and other places of 
 amusement, they are crowded to their ut- 
 most capacity and long charcoal ranges 
 are covered with oysters roasting in the 
 shell, clams likewise, and further on with 
 broils, fries, stews, soups, steams and chow- 
 ders. The chief drawback to this business 
 is that it must take a vacation during three 
 or four months of summer, when oysters 
 are out of season ; or the business must be 
 temporarily changed to something to suit 
 the time and re-organized every fall. The 
 following appended as a sort of guide to 
 prices for any one entering the business is 
 the bill of fare of a Fulton market oyster 
 and fish house. Considering the location it 
 ought to show the bottom prices which a 
 good house can afford to accept close to 
 the chief source of supply ; Chicago prices 
 ought to be and probably are higher, and 
 Denver or other more distant cities should 
 obtain prices higher still:
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 93 
 
 AN OYSTER AND LUNCH ROOM. 
 
 Bill of Fare 
 
 FUL TON MARKET, NEW YORK CITY. 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 Ox Tail Soup 20 Bisque of Oysters o 
 
 Chicken Soup 20 " ' Clams 20 
 
 Green Turtle Soup 40 
 
 OYSTERS. 
 
 Saddle Rock Roast 35 
 
 FT 3S 
 
 Stew 35 
 
 Raw 35 
 
 Extra Saddle Rock Roast 50 
 
 Plate of Raw 20 
 
 Stew 35 
 
 Boston Stew 5 
 
 Fancy Broil 50 
 
 Box Stew 30 
 
 3S 
 
 Ovster Fritters. 
 
 Pickled Oysters .................................. 25 
 
 Oyster Pattie .................................... 25 
 
 Kricassee Oysters 
 
 CLAMS. 
 
 Saddle Rock Fry in Box ......................... 35 
 
 Steamed Clams 35 
 
 Clam Chowder 25 
 
 " Stew 25 
 
 Fry 35 
 
 Roast 35 
 
 Fried Scallops 35 
 
 FISH. 
 ib Salad 50 Smelt 
 
 Clam Fritters 35 
 
 Saddle Rock Clam Fry 35 
 
 " " " Stew 35 
 
 Raw Clams 20 
 
 Stewed Scallops 25 
 
 Omelet 50 Codfish 
 
 Blue Fish 40 
 
 Weak Fish 40 
 
 Mackerel 
 
 Striped Bass 
 
 Fish Cakes . . . 
 
 Plain Lobster 35 
 
 Lobster Salad 40 
 
 Stewed Lobster 40 
 
 Lobster Pattie .35 
 
 Eels 
 
 Kins 
 
 Seal 
 
 Fish. 
 
 .40 
 .40 
 
 Black Bass 40 
 
 Deviled Crabs, per doz., to order i 50 
 
 Salmon Steak 50 
 
 Soft Crabs 50 
 
 Pompano 75 
 
 Spanish Mackerel. 
 
 5 
 
 White Bait 50 
 
 Fish Chowder (Fridays) 25 
 
 Halibut 40 _ 
 
 All other kinds of Fish in Season. 
 
 MEATS. ETC, 
 
 Porterhouse Steak 75 
 
 for two i oo 
 
 Double Porterhouse '. i 25 
 
 Tenderloin Steak 60 
 
 Sirloin Steak 50 
 
 Roast Beef 40 
 
 " Lamb 40 
 
 Mutton Chops 40 
 
 Veal Chops 40 
 
 Lamb Chops 40 
 
 Boiled Ham 30 
 
 Cold Boiled Chicken 40 
 
 Sweetbreads 50 
 
 Broiled Chicken 60 
 
 Chicken Salad 50 
 
 Chicken Pattie 40 
 
 Liver and Bacon 40 
 
 Ham and Eggs 40 
 
 Scrambled Eggs 25 
 
 Poached Eggs 25 
 
 Two Eggs (Boiled or Fried) 15 
 
 Plain Omelet 25 
 
 35 
 
 Fried Frogs 50 Ham 
 
 Sandwich 15 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Celery 20 Fried Sweet Potatoes 15 
 
 ? Plant ...20 Stewed Potatoes... ...ib 
 
 Green Peas 15 
 
 Asparagus... ,..] 
 
 Lyonnaise Potatoes 10 
 
 French Fried Potatoe 
 
 Stewed Corn i e, Saratoga Potatoes 
 
 Green Corn 15 Tomatoes (Stewed or Raw) 10 
 
 Cucumbers , 10 
 
 Home-made Pies 10 
 
 Rice Pud rl ing 10 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 Farina Jelly.. 10 I Corn Starch. 
 
 Water Melon 10 
 
 Musk 
 
 Peaches and Cream..' 20 | Ice Cream 15 
 
 Apple Fritter.~ 20 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS 
 
 Coffee 10 I French Pan 
 
 Cake 25 
 
 Tea 10 I Wheat Cakes ....15 
 
 Pot Tea 15 Rolls, each. 
 
 Extra Pot Tea 25 Chocolate. 
 
 Coffee or Tea and Roll 15 " Iced 
 
 Crackers and Milk 15 
 
 CAME. 
 
 English snipe 60 | Squab on Toast 
 
 Other Game in Season.
 
 94 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 HOW THE PAY IS COLLECTED. 
 
 One purpose of going over the different 
 classes of business in a talk about restau- 
 rant stewarding was to observe the differ- 
 ent methods which restaurateurs adopt 
 for collecting the pay from customers. 
 Many men think this is the most difficult 
 department to control of all in the business, 
 and no man pretends yet that he has found 
 a perfect plan for getting all the money 
 that is due him. In a very small personal 
 business it may be quite easy for the pro- 
 prietor to keep watch of each customer's 
 order and remember the amount, but the 
 difficulty increases as the volume of trade 
 grows larger and personal watching is 
 given up altogether and some plan insti- 
 tuted which affords protection both to cus- 
 tomer and owner. It is pleasing to think 
 that honesty is the rule and the contrary 
 the rare exception, yet these exceptional 
 cases give a world of trouble and uneasi- 
 ness, and in the largest cities, where thiev- 
 ing is the trade of a few, the opportunities 
 afforded by the crowded restaurants and 
 lunch houses are duly improved and every 
 device of ingenuity is brought into play by 
 expert thieves in waiters' dress to intercept 
 the money paid in by the customers on its 
 way to the cas>h box, one of the commonest 
 being to overcharge the customer and 
 keep the extra money themselves. The 
 most noted and successful Parisian restau- 
 rateur of the present time, according to 
 the story-tellers of the press, was at one 
 time on the very verge of financial ruin 
 although doing an immense business, and 
 was only saved from the final crash 
 and lifted up to great wealth by the dis- 
 covery of an effective system of checking 
 meals as sold. 
 
 THE COMMON MEAL CHECK. 
 
 The common way and which seemingly 
 is good enough for a small business is to 
 provide small cards printed with the small 
 sums and perhaps a line or two, as: 
 
 YOUR BILL Is 
 
 20 Cents. 
 
 PLEASE PAY AT THE CASHIER'S 
 DESK. 
 
 These are kept in separate compartment 
 boxes like silver change according to their 
 denomination ; the headwaiter or cashier 
 or cook, or whoever has the responsibility 
 of keeping them in charge, hands one to 
 the waiter with the order, who lays it be- 
 side the customer's plate. If the latter 
 orders something additional the waiter 
 takes away the first check and replaces it 
 with another bearing the larger amount. 
 On leaving, the customer hands the check 
 and his money to the cashier or proprietor. 
 This is the simplest and commonest of all 
 methods, yet it affords scarcely any pro- 
 tection to the proprietor if the waiters care 
 to be in collusion with customers, as they 
 can easily manage to change checks or 
 give those of less denomination than the 
 dish ought to be sold for; in short, for a 
 dozen reasons this plan is useless for pro- 
 tection, but is merely a means of expedit- 
 ing business by putting all the changing 
 of money into the hands of one person, the 
 cashier, who does nothing else. Yet, this 
 is the only method employed in the 
 crowded bakery lunch houses before men- 
 tioned, where the waiters carry assorted 
 checks loose in their apron pockets and 
 hand them out to customers as near right 
 as they can remember to do, or as near as 
 the checks in pocket will fit the case, for 
 they have not time to go after more always. 
 There the great effort of the proprietors is 
 to prevent the customers going out with- 
 out yielding up either the check or the 
 money, and watchmen try to keep eyes on 
 the occupants of the lunch stools as they* 
 change and move towards the door. The 
 same free-and-easy plan suffices for the 
 dairy lunch houses and most of the com- 
 mon restaurants in Chicago, and it speaks 
 well for the honor and honesty of both 
 customers and waiters that such an insuffi-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 cient system of checking can prevail to 
 such an extent and the proprietors not feel 
 any appreciable loss from it. Even in the 
 best oyster houses, where the individual 
 bills may vary from fifty cents to five dol- 
 lars or any higher sum, the method is the 
 same and only a little more strict in the 
 custody of the tickets, the proprietors re- 
 ceiving the money perhaps being able to 
 keep a very fair run of the orders as they 
 are served. 
 
 THE WRITTEN ORDER CHECK. 
 
 One of the restaurant keepers briefly 
 alluded to in a former chapter, professed 
 not to believe in the honor or honesty of 
 any person where money is concerned. 
 It may have been only his business code 
 which he thus expressed, for some men 
 are different when they put off their busi- 
 ness coat and become more human. This 
 strict man had to let the ordinary iunch 
 business of his place run on with only the 
 common check in use in so many places, 
 trusting something to the tried old em- 
 ployes, whom he had watched for years, 
 and much to his own keen supervision of 
 receipts and expenditures; but in his res- 
 taurant, where the amounts of the bills 
 were larger and the orders more compli- 
 cated, he had a system of double checking, 
 or more strictly triple checking, which was 
 clumsy, but "it woiked" to his satisfaction. 
 He had a colored headwaiter and a white 
 cashier the less likely to be too friendly 
 and in collusion against him both having 
 the same desk for headquarters, the cashier 
 of course seated, the headwaiter here and 
 there and back again. When a customer 
 came in and ordered from the bill of fare 
 the headwaiter wrote down his order in 
 full with the money total added, numbered 
 it, tore the leaf from the tab and deposited 
 it like a ballot in a box, gave the waiter the 
 next leaf, which was a duplicate with the 
 same number, to place by the customer's 
 plate, and so went on with the next order. 
 When the customer departed he brought 
 his check to the cashier and paid it, and 
 the cashier dropped the check into his 
 
 ballot box. When the customer ordered 
 something additional, an additional num- 
 bered check was given, and the same per- 
 son might have four or five checks in hand 
 instead of one. At convenient intervals 
 the proprietor would go over the head- 
 waiter's original checks and the cashier's 
 currency, and if there were any discrepan- 
 cies the matter could be explained while 
 the transaction was still fresh in the mind 
 as it might have occurred that Mr. Such- 
 a-number refused to pay for a certain dish 
 or changed his order to something else. 
 In this case the headwaiter was required 
 to be a rapid writer and the business was 
 only of moderate dimensions, it might not 
 have worked so well in a crowd. 
 
 THE HIDDEN WATCH SYSTEM. 
 
 In many places there are various cash 
 articles, such as cigars, drinks, fruits, con- 
 fectionary, etc., sold and paid for at the 
 same time that the meal check from the res- 
 taurant is paid, and a watch is placed over 
 the cashier to keep tally of the things sofd. 
 Usually this is an elevated box like a pew 
 in a church with a curtain screen, in which 
 perhaps the proprietor's wife, or some such 
 interested person, spends part or most of 
 the day ; the entrance being so arranged 
 that the party handling the cash never 
 knows when the watcher is absent, if ever. 
 A similar watch is placed in some estab- 
 lishments over the order department in the 
 kitchen. 
 
 THE GREAT AMERICAN RESTAURANT 
 SYSTEM. 
 
 There is a curious though distant resem- 
 blance between the most carefully con- 
 ducted English hotels and such American 
 restaurants as are attached to the great 
 resort hotels, in their methods of dealing 
 with the issuance of cooked dishes to the 
 waiters. The former keep the cooking 
 separate from the carving and serving de- 
 partment. Each joint of meat or measure 
 of cooked vegetables is weighed as it leaves 
 the kitchen in presence of a clerk, who 
 enters the amount in a book, and the carv-
 
 96 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 ing and serving department is required to 
 show what becomes of it aftei wards and 
 whether each dish returned a profit or loss. 
 The great restaurant system is simpler. 
 The kitchen sells each dish outright to the 
 waiter, who must pay for what he calls for 
 and sell it in turn to the customer in the 
 dining room. It may be observed that the 
 Manhattan Beach bill of fare has at the 
 top in bold type this notice: "Guests will 
 pay their bills to the waiters and see that 
 the prices charged correspond with those 
 in the bill of fare." The restaurant is al- 
 ready secured ; the party at the table must 
 see to it that the waiter does not impose 
 upon him, charge him too much ; bring a 
 half portion and charge for a whole; bring 
 a steak for one and obtain pay for a steak 
 for two. 
 
 The proprietors of one of these crowded 
 resort restaurants, whose customers are 
 numbered by thousands daily, told a re- 
 porter there is positively no other way, it 
 is the only method possible where over a 
 huifdred waiters are employed; by any 
 other plan the waiters would manage to 
 secure all the profits to themselves. 
 
 THE BOUILLONS-DUVALS SYSTEM. 
 
 The system of popular, cheap and good 
 Parisian restaurants, world-renowned un- 
 der the name of the Bouillons-Duvals, 
 have received the most unbounded praise 
 and also most unmitigated abuse, yet their 
 growth and success has been so remarkable 
 as to prove their excellence and value in 
 spite of all detractors. The truth seems to 
 be that they disappoint some visitors with 
 their small portions served, their bare 
 marble tables without tablecloths; their 
 female waiters ; a certain sort of want of 
 style ; and that is really what they are for 
 and why they succeed they are popular 
 restaurants. But, whatever may be said, 
 nobody doubts the perfect soundness of the 
 methods employed to secure for the estab- 
 lishment every cent of the money it earns, 
 without a shadow of injustice to the patron. 
 This is the system which, it seems, ought 
 to supersede the present crowded lunch 
 
 counters of Chicago and all other large 
 cities. The same urgent \\ant of a place to 
 obtain a decent meal in the shortest time 
 and at a small cost was felt in the great 
 city of Paris that is experienced here, and 
 his Duval plan proved to be the right 
 thing at the right time. Beginning with 
 one small soup house the Duval system 
 has grown to a powerful company running 
 over fifty restaurants in one city, their 
 buying, importing, butchering and baking 
 operations being now of as great magnitude 
 as if all the hotels, restaurants and lunch 
 houses of Chicago should throw their trade 
 into one pool, 'all drawing from the same 
 supply warehouses. Bouillon- Duval has 
 a rather pretty look in French, but in 
 literal English it is but Soup-Duval we 
 should say Soup-John's restaurant. Duval 
 was a poor butcher who in 1854 opened a 
 small place where he sold at first nothing 
 but soup and beef, the Frenchman's home 
 fare, bouilli-et- bouillon boiled beef and the 
 broth it was boiled in but these midday 
 lunches crowded him so that he had to 
 move into larger quarters and, needing 
 assistance, he found it necessary to marry 
 a young woman who was quick at figures 
 and had a talent for business. They in- 
 creased the scope of their restaurant busi- 
 ness somewhat and got along so fast that 
 Duval did what so many do disastrously, 
 he rented a fine and expensive building, 
 furnished it "with all the modern improve- 
 ments" presumably on credit and also 
 with a new project of his own; a scheme 
 for furnishing free soda water to each table 
 and put in the necessary apparatus. But 
 this enterprise broke him up. He came 
 out the loser of about $40,000. Then he 
 began again in a small way, and his wife, 
 looking back over what had occurred, 
 thought she saw plainly the cause of their 
 misfortune in the reflection that when they 
 did a small business they could control the 
 receipts themselves and secure all that was 
 coming to them ; when the business became 
 so large that their employe's had part con- 
 trol they lost. Their business increased, 
 or, rather, their former patrons stuck to
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 97 
 
 them, and Madame Duval invented the 
 check system which is till in use in all the 
 Duval establishments ; it is called the key- 
 stone of the whole Duval system. After 
 that Duval went on prospering and increas- 
 ing the number of his restaurants. He 
 died in 1870 worth over a million. He had 
 previously converted his extensive business 
 into a joint stock affair, himself being pre- 
 sident of the company, and when he died 
 his widow was appointed to the same office 
 in his place. 
 
 One distinguishing peculiarity of the Du- 
 val system is its dealing in very small 
 change ; it does not disdain the copper cent. 
 This might militate against its adoption in 
 our western cities, and yet it must be re- 
 membered that the one-cent and two-cent 
 newspapers were met at the start with the 
 same obstacle, but overcame it. In a Du- 
 val restaurant, while a person must pay for 
 what he orders, he needs not pay even for 
 a slice of bread more than he wants; bread 
 is charged for the same as anything else, 
 and if a loaf cost four cents the customer 
 will have to pay only i cent for a quarter. 
 But this does not prevent a customer from 
 spending as many dollars as he pleases in 
 ordering a fine dinner with wines and 
 extras. 
 
 Another is the employment of female 
 waiters only. They must be respectable 
 married women ; all are dressed in a sort 
 of uniform, which a correspondent likens 
 to the Sisters of Charity; the reality is, 
 however, the establishment supplies them 
 with dresses of black or gray alpaca, white 
 apron, tulle cap and white linen sleeves, 
 and a silvered brooch bearing their num- 
 ber in plain letters. This number they 
 are obliged to mark on the customer's 
 ticket when taking his order. They each 
 have to wait on sixteen chairs ; work from 
 nine in the morning until nine at night, 
 and receive twelve dollars per month 
 wages and two meals a day. It is supposed 
 that most of them make about a dollar a 
 day average, besides, from gratuities. 
 
 The Duval system of checking, upon 
 which so much stress is laid and with 
 
 which these waitresses have much to do, 
 consists in this: A person entering is 
 handed a ticket from the window of the 
 controlleur, a bit of pasteboard a good deal 
 like the conductor's check showing the 
 towns and distances on our railroads ; it is 
 a miniature bill of fare containing some 
 sixty or seventy items with prices at- 
 tached. When he has taken his seat at 
 a table, the waitress takes his ticket and 
 marks a charge of i cent for "the cover" 
 for the setting of the plate, knife and fork, 
 salt and pepper and glass of water. If he 
 wants a tablecloth instead of the bare 
 marble, he can have one for an additional 
 cent; if ice in his drinking water it will be 
 one cent more, and then he goes on to 
 order his lunch or dinner of pretty much 
 the same dishes that are served at lunch 
 houses and restaurants of the cheaper sort 
 in this country. The prices are low, but 
 the portions served are likewise small 
 they are such portions as our friends the 
 drummers term samples and kick at in 
 some of our really excellent hotels, but in 
 either place the hungry man can order 
 more. The Duval waiters will bring an- 
 other portion and add another small charge 
 for it to the ticket, in fact would keep on 
 doing so all day; these restaurants sell at 
 the cheapest rate, but do not give an ounce 
 of anything for nothing. 
 
 The customer on departing leaves two 
 or three cents by the side of his plate for 
 the waitress, takes his ticket to the lady 
 cashier who adds up the amount, takes his 
 money, stamps the ticket and gives it back 
 to him and he then delivers it to the con- 
 troller, from whom he received it, as he 
 passes out. A correspondent, remarking 
 upon the various kinds of restaurants in 
 Paris, says there is no possibility of collu- 
 sion, the system is a perfect protection. In 
 regard to a quite satisfactory dinner he took 
 in company with a friend, he says: "We 
 had tapioca soup, fried sole, roast beef with 
 potatoes and celery, chicory salad, maca- 
 roons, and coffee, ice cream, a quart and a 
 half of Sauterne, and a pint of champagne. 
 The bill was exactly thirteen francs or
 
 98 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 about $2.47. In any other restaurant that I 
 ever dined at the bill would certainly have 
 been $5, the quality of the food being the 
 same. In New York the amount of the bill 
 would not have paid for the wine." 
 
 It is said the total number of meals 
 served in the combined Duval restaurants 
 of Paris aggregate three and a half millions 
 each year. 
 
 The most extensive firm of London res- 
 taurant keepers, Messrs. Spiers and Pond, 
 about two or three years ago started a Du- 
 val restaurant in London, which doubtless 
 is running yet. It was patterned after the 
 Paris original in nearly every respect, yet 
 there were slight modifications made to 
 accord better with British tastes, and the 
 prices charged were considerably higher 
 than the original Duval's. An enterpris- 
 ing American hotel man, who is now the 
 proprietor of the Hotel Bellevue, Phila- 
 delphia, a year or two ago adopted or tried 
 to adopt the Duval system of checking, if 
 nothing else; the result of the experiment 
 is not known to the one writing this. It 
 is said of the first introduction of that check 
 system in Paris: "There was at first some 
 difficulty in inducing the public to accept 
 the card on entering, while many refused 
 to give it up on leaving. Ultimately, how- 
 ever, good sense, firmness and courtesy 
 triumphed, the system was securely estab- 
 lished, and thenceforth the success of Du- 
 val was assured." 
 
 SPIERS AND POND'S LONDON RESTAU- 
 RANTS. 
 
 The great firm of London caterers men- 
 tioned above as instituting a Duval restau- 
 rant in the English capital "on trial," in 
 that proceeding did but give another ex- 
 ample of the wonderful push and enter- 
 prise which has made them famous as the 
 leading firm in the refreshment catering 
 line of the present time, probably of any 
 rime, for the number and magnitude of 
 their contracts have no parallel, and a his- 
 tory and description of their operations 
 alone would fill a book. Messrs. Spiers 
 and Pond (the latter recently deceased) are 
 
 Australians who went to London and com- 
 menced business in a small way. The 
 individuality of the firm, like that of the 
 Duval's in Paris, was merged in a stock 
 company after awhile, and the most re- 
 markable of their operations since have 
 been in the line of catering for thousands 
 at a time at expositions and celebrations. 
 Still they have a number of restaurants in 
 operation in various parts of the great city, 
 the largest and perhaps the best represent- 
 ative of their particularly English methods 
 is the Criterion, which a correspondent of 
 the Boston Advertiser describes as follows : 
 
 " One of the unique fixtures of London, 
 and a fixture which has nothing resem- 
 bling it in any city of the United States, is 
 the far-famed Criterion, that monster pur- 
 veyor to the wants of the inner man, both 
 fluid and solid. 
 
 "New York has her Delmonico's and 
 Boston has her Young's; but the Criterion 
 is not to London what these two vast eat- 
 ing establishments are to their respective 
 cities. Both Young's and Delmonico's 
 cater to the ultra-fashionable class to a 
 greater or less extent, while that class of 
 people in the English metropolis, when 
 they dine publicly at all, frequent the Me- 
 tropole, the Langham or the Bristol. Still, 
 at the Criterion one finds at different times 
 almost all classes of people, from the 
 countryman, the business man, the how- 
 ling swell, up to that class which just falls 
 short of the ' very nobs ' themselves. 
 
 " The Criterion fronts on Picadilly, Re- 
 gents Circus, from which busy, noisy local- 
 ity one ascends a few broad steps and finds 
 himself in the main dining room and bar 
 of Messrs. Spiers and Pond's sumptuous 
 eating house. You find none of that gaudy 
 show in decoration which is peculiar to our 
 American bar room or dining hall. Every- 
 thing about the place speaks for itself in 
 the good, true, heavy, old English style. 
 
 "Your attention is first attracted as you 
 enter the Criterion by the stalwart retainer, 
 with his silver chain around his neck, ready 
 to answer any and all questions which the 
 new-comer might put to him, and to direct
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 99 
 
 you this way or that. On your left as you 
 enter and at the further end of this apart- 
 ment is what to the native American might 
 be considered as the most peculiar feature 
 of this most complete establishment. 
 
 "To the man who is accustomed to order 
 his champagne cocktail or his gin-fizz from 
 a row of ' bar-keeps,' clad in their spotless 
 linen and duck, their whole make-up the 
 very pink of perfection, the sight of eight 
 or more fine, buxom, wholesome looking 
 English girls behind the mahogany would 
 probably be a novel, not to say a pleasing 
 and interesting picture. At any rate, pleas- 
 ing or displeasing, this is in store for him 
 who visits the Criterion, and the writer 
 believes that hundreds of visiting Ameri- 
 cans go in there just for the purpose of 
 feasting the eje on this array of female 
 talent. 
 
 "These bar maids are all of them selected 
 for their fine physique, their hair cut short, 
 man fashion, their white collars turned 
 down over their black gowns. They are 
 girls of good repute, attending strictly to 
 their business, and allowing no familiarity 
 or freedom of speech, although a part of 
 their stock in trade is to be possessed of 
 pleasing and taking manners, easy flow of 
 words, a certain knack at wholesome re- 
 partee, and other like characteristics which 
 shall command a certain amount of custom. 
 At this bar you will find groups of men, 
 young and old, calling for their ' mug of 
 bitters,' their 'thr' penny' or 'fo'penny' 
 glass of 'cold Irish' or 'cold Scotch,' 
 and these latter drinks are not served to 
 the customer in the bottle, with the priv- 
 ilege of taking a 'bath' or anything of that 
 sort. If you call for a 'fo'penny Irish' 
 you get a ' fo'penny Irish ' and no more. 
 Your girl in black draws it from little 
 wooden kegs, measuring it in a gauged 
 measure, pouring it into the glass and 
 setting it before you. 
 
 " There is no elaborate display of glass- 
 ware. Great shining 'beer pulls' show 
 themselves at stated intervals, and heavy 
 decanters of sherry, port and other wines 
 are in sight everywhere. These, together 
 
 with a goodly display of dainty bits just 
 suited for the noon-day lunch, and not for- 
 getting the girls behind it, go to make up 
 the furnishing of the noted bar. Every- 
 thing here is straight, no mixed drinks 
 be ng served. 
 
 "Directly opposite the bar are small tables, 
 placed in little crescent-shaped alcoves, 
 around which are luxuriously upholstered 
 wall seats, the very place for a cozy tete-a- 
 tete lunch with your best friend. 
 
 "Do you wish for a mixed drink? The 
 place for that is the American bar, In a 
 little room leading off the main room. 
 Here one can get American drinks served 
 in the most approved American style. The 
 only thing about them that might not be 
 approved by all Americans is that the 
 price for every drink served over this bar 
 is one shilling; with no two-for-a-quarter 
 transactions about them. The sherry which 
 you pay fo'penny' for at the large bar is 
 the identical sherry which you pay a shil- 
 ling for at the American bar, a fact which 
 proves that one must know the ins and 
 outs in order to save his pence. The 
 American bar is patronized to a consider- 
 able extent by Englishmen as well as by 
 the nationality after whom it takes its 
 name. This, as well as the main room, is 
 patronized by the American colony of 
 actors which of late have been so favorably 
 received in London. 
 
 " Nearly opposite the further end of the 
 bar you pass through an embossed glass 
 door and down the easy flight of steps 
 which lead you into the famous 'Grill 
 Room.' Placed around this room are little 
 tables for two, covered with snow-white 
 cloths. Here you can order a 'chump 
 chop,' a broiled pork sausage with broiled 
 tomatoes, all of which dishes are specialties 
 of the grill room. Steaks or cuts from the 
 joints are served here in the most approved 
 English style, and are kept nicely hot with 
 little pewter covers for each individual 
 plate, which fit over it to perfection. In 
 this room the patrons are of a more solid 
 character, with here and there the pater- 
 familias with his rosy-cheeked daughters
 
 100 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 in town for a day's shopping. There is a 
 back entrance to the grill room from Jer- 
 myn street, by means of which ladies can 
 enter without being obliged to run the 
 gauntlet of observing eyes in front of the 
 bar. As you pass out of the back entrance 
 you run accross one of those omnipresent 
 'drop-in-a-penny ' affairs, by means of 
 which you may obtain a finely flavored 
 Egyptian cigarette if you wish it. 
 
 " The two stories above the main room 
 are fitted up with special rooms, set apart 
 for different classes of dining. As you go 
 up the stairs yr>u meet with placards, for 
 instance, on which you read ' Diner Pari- 
 sien, 5 francs,' and on which placard is 
 given the bill of fare for the day. On an- 
 other you will see ' Dinner, 5 shillings,' to- 
 gether with an English menu. In this 
 French dining room the waiters are all 
 French and small individual tables are 
 daintily set, each table lighted by candela- 
 bras in the evening, placed in the centre 
 and shedding a soft and pleasant light over 
 the room. The English dinner is such as 
 would meet the requirements of the purely 
 English good-liver. Other rooms are de- 
 voted to the use of private parties. 
 
 " Perhaps one of the pleasant features of 
 the Criterion is what is known as the 
 Glee Dinner.' The room where this is 
 
 given occupies almost the entire upper 
 floor of the building, and is a very large 
 and spacious apartment, with tables hold- 
 ing from four to a dozen, the whole room 
 capable of seating 200 or more. The din- 
 ner costs you 'three and six,' with three 
 pence additional for attendance. For this 
 moderate sum you get soup, fish, choice of 
 several joints, choice of several entrees, 
 choice of several vegetables, followed by a 
 sweet. The attractive feature, however, 
 is the music given by a chorus of glee 
 singers to while away the waits between 
 the courses. On a raised platform at one 
 end of the room is a double quartet of men 
 and a dozen or more boys, chosen from 
 the churches, who sing old English glees 
 at intervals during the evening, while din- 
 ner is going on, and the music is really 
 admirable. 
 
 " Such are a few of the many features of 
 the Criterion. The whole establishment 
 is over the Criterion Theatre, where 
 Wyndham's famous company nightly de- 
 light London audiences, and which theatre 
 is, as every one knows, entirely below the 
 street level. In coming out of the building 
 you find yourself once more in busy Picca- 
 dilly with its continuously passing throng, 
 and you say to your friend, ' See you again 
 to-morrow night in the glee room at six.' " 
 
 CLUB STEWARDING AND CATERING. 
 
 Clubs having no "proprietor" or one 
 who stands in the hotel landlord's place, 
 are organized as to their eating and drink- 
 ing departments in either of these two 
 ways: The smaller clubs have a house 
 committee which hires a steward and puts 
 him in full charge of the culinary depart- 
 ment, holding him accountable in monthly 
 statements to the committee, when his 
 books are required to show whether the 
 kitchen is making or losing money for the 
 club. As the club members are tacitly 
 
 expected, but not bound, to take their 
 meals and extra suppers at the club the 
 steward's ability as a caterer to set an at- 
 tractive table often has a telling effect 
 upon the club's prosperity. 
 
 Some of the largest and most noted clubs 
 of the world pursue a different plan and 
 appoint a caterer, who acts very much in 
 the position of an independent tradesman, 
 agreeing to furnish the meals, whether 
 regular or private, entirely on his own 
 responsibility, taking his own risks of sell-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 101 
 
 ing or not selling and rendering accounts 
 to no one but himself, being really the 
 restaurant-keeper of the club's restaurant, 
 with an established scale of prices and 
 making all he can out of the club's patron- 
 age. Such a caterer has to employ inside 
 stewards and all other employe's very much 
 the same as a hotel proprietor does, the 
 special difference being that the caterer is 
 usually chosen by the club on account of 
 his being already a renowned cook, who 
 will exercise his special function for the 
 club's benefit, and in that respect he is far 
 different from the mere refreshment con- 
 tractors, who undertake the feeding of a 
 multitude at so much per head. To be the 
 steward of a club is not materially different 
 from being steward of a first-class hotel, 
 where a man to fill the position must be 
 well up in party giving; in small, but ex- 
 pensive suppers, and he must have a 
 knowledge of wines and liquors, more 
 intimate and critical than the average 
 hotel steward has any need of. 
 
 ABOUT CLUBS IN GENERAL. 
 
 A good deal has been said about the 
 difficulty of filling the positions offered by 
 club houses, and it is true that only a few 
 men are adapted to become the abject ser- 
 vants which the aristocratic club idea re- 
 quires them to be. There are in the largest 
 cities healthful and useful sorts of clubs, 
 like the Union League Club of Chicago, 
 where business men derive real benefit 
 from having a central place of their own 
 in which to lunch or dine, to take a friend 
 and pass an evening. They order from 
 their own kitchen whatever special dishes 
 they please, but at the same there is a reg- 
 ular lunch and dinner prepared by the best 
 cooks, who are allowed the same freedom 
 to make the bill of fare include their own 
 best dishes and specialties that they would 
 be accorded in any fine hotel, much to the 
 advantage of the members, who thus bene- 
 fit by whatever their employes' experience 
 may have taught them. Some clubs in Lon- 
 don and elsewhere have been noted for cer- 
 tain specialties in diet, the same as many res- 
 
 taurants, and the club members anywh.re 
 are proud of any such distinguishment. 
 
 About the "softest job" for a steward 
 who is not over-scrupulous is to be found 
 in the provincial club of some small town. 
 These clubs are little more than drinking 
 houses in disguise, probably genteel gamb- 
 ling houses as well. The members affect 
 the airs of large city clubs, but are not 
 numerous nor wealthy enough to support 
 the pretention. For waiters they have 
 lackeys dressed in swallow-tail coats with 
 brass buttons, who are required to tremble 
 when they frown, and they do frown ter- 
 ribly when the waiter, who has to put 
 i he suger in their tea and stir it up for 
 them, makes the dreadful error of putting 
 in three lumps when he ought to know 
 they never take but two. They have a 
 steward upon whom they rest all the care' 
 and responsibility of running their kitchen, 
 restaurant and liquor " cellar." They are 
 usually in debt for their building and losing, 
 money every month besides, and, while a 
 church society in such a case can resort to 
 various means of raising the indebtedness, 
 the club is too proud to do anything but 
 suffer. But all this does not affect the 
 steward's position or lessen its value. Only 
 the club members are to be pitied. They 
 are obliged to spend their money at the 
 club restaurant and take their meals there 
 to help it along, and obliged to buy the 
 wines and suppers for their friends there, 
 although the fact of the club's being in 
 debt is excuse enough for everything being 
 charged for higher than would be the case 
 at Delmonico's in New York. But " they 
 that dance must pay the fiddler;" the stew- 
 ard who finds himself in such a position 
 must expect frequent changes to occur and 
 must do the best he can. As the club 
 system combines, at least in the case of 
 business men's clubs, both the table d'hote 
 or hotel plan for regular club boarders and 
 the restaurant or private party plan, an 
 intimate knowledge of both is required by 
 the club steward and a special readiness to 
 tell how much such a meal will cost for 
 how many.
 
 102 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 PARTY CATERING. 
 
 The tendency to choose the principal 
 hotels of a city as the place to give party 
 spreads as well as public banquets is on 
 the increase, and it is now the case that in 
 some of the largest there is scarcely a night 
 in the week during the winter season that 
 one or several such entertainments do not 
 take place, and it has come to be a part of 
 the hotel business and is provided for with 
 special dining halls and all proper catering 
 appliances to a great extent independent of 
 the regular daily business. Where such 
 arrangements are made for the purpose, 
 :he probabtlities of the little supper or the 
 fashionable reception or grand banquet 
 being served in a satisfactory manner are 
 much greater than when it is ordered from 
 some professed caterer's independent es- 
 tablishment, the latter having to contend 
 with the scarcely surmountable difficulties 
 of transporting the prepared food and re- 
 freshments in wagons through the streets 
 to their destination with all the shaking 
 up, mixing and disarrangements attending 
 such an operation. The experienced ca- 
 terer is always seeking means and appli- 
 ances to prevent such damage, and the 
 successful men are those who accomplish 
 most in the way of prevention. However, 
 the hotel has immense advantages in that 
 respect. 
 
 The stewards in such cases are called 
 upon to meet requirements as widely dif- 
 ferent as can be imagined ; the character 
 of the entertainments running through all 
 stages from the most economically planned 
 charitable affairs to the most elaborate and 
 costly complimentary banquets, and noth- 
 ing is more common than for two just such 
 extremes to meet on the same night in the 
 same hotel. While I propose to give some 
 examples of actual spreads with the 
 amounts of provisions consumed and the 
 cost, I will say plainly that they are far 
 less likely to help the inexperienced stew- 
 ard than will be the learning of a few fun- 
 damental rules, which I have found so use- 
 ful myself as to regard them as infallible. 
 
 I will name them in order and also note 
 the exceptions and occasional disappoint 
 ments, which are in the nature of accidents 
 which nobody can entirely guard against. 
 But first as to 
 
 MISTAKES IN ENTERTAINING. 
 
 We can never find out from the pub- 
 lished reports in the newspapers whether 
 an entertainment tendered for some speci- 
 fic purpose was satisfactory to those en- 
 tertained or not, particularly if the good 
 name of the town is involved, it is the pa- 
 pers' business to say the pleasant things 
 and leave the unpleasant unsaid, and com- 
 mon politeness compels the guests if dis- 
 appointed to keep their thoughts to them- 
 selves, or at least among themselves, and 
 so we can go on committing the same 
 blunders over again. I venture to think 
 that grave mistakes are being made con- 
 stantly when complimentary dinners and 
 suppers are tendered through the hotel 
 trying to " show off " too much, at the ex- 
 pence of the enjoyment of the people en- 
 tertained. As caterers, stewards and cooks 
 we are not always responsible for this, for 
 those who order must have style at what- 
 ever sacrifice, but as we are often consulted 
 and frequently given entire control I will 
 show what seems to me to be mistakes by 
 two or three instances. 
 
 An excursion party of prominent men 
 from a distant state, numbering about 
 twenty, went to a noted summer hotel 
 upon invita'ion of the proprietors in the 
 height of the season and arrived just as 
 dinner was beginning. If the real enjoy- 
 ment of these guests and enduring pleas- 
 ant memories of the visit had been the 
 chief thought and object of the entertain- 
 ers, they would have been delayed half an 
 hour, perhaps an hour, and then conducted 
 to the best tables, given good waiters and 
 the very same bill of fare which the hund- 
 red or two of gaily-dressed, summer-enjoy- 
 ing regular guests were deriving pleasant 
 satisfaction from ; they would have chosen 
 as they pleased, had sociable surroundings, 
 could have finished dinner in an hour and
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 103 
 
 made to feel at home. The only man con- 
 sulted about it chose differently, however, 
 and thought nothing would do justice to 
 the occasion but a dinner in about ten 
 courses, and as it was neither advisable 
 nor practicable to cook a fresh dinner some 
 portion of the regular dinner already old 
 was saved. The guests were kept wait- 
 ing for two hours after arrival, a special 
 long table was set lonesomely enough in a 
 corner of the great dining room and the 
 tedious course dinner doled into the poor 
 fellows through two weary hours, they 
 being forced to sit and submit for polite- 
 ness' sake, although before they got 
 through the other watch of waiters was 
 buzzing around them preparing the tables 
 for the next grand meal. The published 
 resolutions of thanks in the papers next 
 day were ail right, yet I don't believe they 
 enjoyed the visit or the dinner or would 
 consent to go through it all again, and 
 don't think that was the way they should 
 have been treated. What did they care 
 whether that particular headwaiter knew 
 how to serve dinners in courses or not? 
 They were on a summer pleasure trip and 
 wanted summer fare and lightsomeness. 
 
 A similar affair occurred in another 
 place where the guests also an excursion 
 party present by invitation did express 
 their impatience with a too tedious banquet 
 and arose and left it unfinished. They 
 were well-known capitalists, about seventy 
 in the party, and had been feasted, recep- 
 tioned and banqueted to the limit of endur- 
 ance and came to this place at night tired. 
 The proprietors, just retiring from the 
 business, seized the opportunity to make a 
 parting display and, instead of the informal 
 little reception at first .intended, spread 
 themselves out and made a really elaborate 
 and expensive banquet in ten courses. 
 The guests intended to be honored sat 
 down and managed to contain their impa- 
 tience while course after course was rushed 
 in with all possible expedition until they 
 had endured nearly two hours of it, when 
 they incontinently rose, locked the doors 
 that led in from the kitchen, marched out 
 
 of the front doors and went to bed, leaving 
 the remaining one third of the luxuries for 
 whom it might concern. And they did 
 just right. 
 
 The next instance of overdoing was not 
 stamped a mistake in any such emphatic 
 way, and the local papers were good 
 enough to apply their choicest terms of 
 praise after it was over, yet I have it among 
 my foremost examples of blunders in this 
 line. About 200 Knights, of no matter 
 what order, from a western city were to be 
 entertained by the local lodge of a country 
 town acting as a committee for the town, 
 the citizens at large having subscribed to 
 defray the expenses. They let the job to 
 a caterer for a set sum and left everything 
 to his discretion, only evincing an excus- 
 able anxiety to have the affair redound to 
 the credit of the town. Two or three 
 assistants were set to work and decorated 
 dishes u sur sccle" and tall cakes were pre- 
 pared and a stylish sort of menu for a hot 
 supper prepared, with green turtle soup in 
 the foreground and oysters occupying a 
 rather modest place in the rear. The sup- 
 per passed off successfully and, as already 
 said, received plenty of newspaper praise. 
 The grand mistake consisted in not making 
 it a grand fried oyster supper, as the event 
 showed, for the green turtle soup, so far 
 from being appreciated as a luxury in that 
 far western country, was absolutely not 
 even called for while the oysters in every 
 style could not be served fast enough by 
 all the hands available. The line of rea- 
 soning had been that oysters were too 
 common to make a fine entertainment 
 even there, for oysters in bulk frozen were 
 plentiful and every little party and every 
 sort of festival had been serving oysters 
 till there was nothing so common. It 
 made no difference, however, the 200 
 wanted oysters and cared for nothing else. 
 The supplies had been laid in so judiciously 
 that fried oysters could be and were served 
 half a dozen to each person, and stewed 
 oysters without limit, so there was no mis- 
 fortune. What was wanted to make that 
 the most memorable feast those Knights
 
 104 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 and ladies had ever attended was a plate 
 of a dozen double-breaded large oysters, 
 properly garnished in Chicago oyster 
 house style, with more in reserve if the 
 dozen did not suffice, and two-thirds of the 
 rest of the banquet might have been left 
 unmade, and one day's work of preparation 
 would have made more real success than 
 the three days and nights that were really 
 consumed in it. 
 
 RULES FOR PARTY CATERING. 
 
 i. Never, if possible to avoid it, agree 
 to furnish refreshments for a party without 
 having the committee to bind itself to pay 
 for some certain number whether they 
 come or not. Four times out of five where 
 it is a pay party there will be fewer people 
 in attendance than were expected, and the 
 hotel keeper or caterer who agrees for so 
 nuch per head has to lose all that he has 
 prepared in excess, when it sometimes is 
 the case that not more than a fourth of 
 those provided for ever come. It is made 
 the worse for the caterer because 'he mem- 
 bers of the committee are apt to become 
 excited over prospective numbers and in- 
 duce the provider of the feast at his own 
 risk to provide excessive amounts ; if on 
 their own risk they will be more cautious. 
 A few months previous to this writing a 
 hotel manager was applied to to furnish 
 dinner on a stated day for 500 locomotive 
 engineers on their annual celebration, and 
 acting on advice, the same as above laid 
 down, obtained a contract for 500 dinners 
 at a dollar a head. The hotel was already 
 crowded, but by an effort, such as hotel 
 people can make when they try themselves, 
 the extra 500 dinners were prepared and 
 the crowd arrived on time, but only 360 
 came, and they were well entertained. 
 There was, of course, a surplus left over 
 of about 140 dinners, but the hotel man- 
 ager having his contract all right got his 
 pay for them and was so much ahead. In 
 too many cases the result is different; the 
 hotel man takes the risk, loses the 140 
 meals and thereby loses all his profits on 
 the transaction and works for nothing. 
 
 When it is a free or complimentary feast, 
 the proper way is to contract for the prob- 
 able number and agree to feed all above 
 that number at a certain price per head. 
 
 2. When agreeing to furnish refresh- 
 ments bear in mind that the number agreed 
 for does not represent all ; there will be 
 musicians, drivers, attendants, press repre- 
 sentatives, and various "complimentaries" 
 not counted by the committee ; calculations 
 must be made for these, especially in an 
 expensive spread, and the price made ac- 
 cordingly. It may be a quail or terrapin 
 supper, where it will not be practicable to 
 make distinctions among those who eat 
 and twenty, thirty or forty "compliment- 
 aries" may consume all the profits if the 
 caterer allows his estimate and contract to 
 run within too narrow margins, particu- 
 larly when the affair is but thinly attended. 
 
 3. If your hotel waiters, cooks, pantry- 
 men, dishwashers and others do the extra 
 work of a party without extra cost to you, 
 that is no affair of the party-givers, the 
 prices charged ought to cover the extra 
 work done by the hands. All other trades 
 and professions charge their customers for 
 the labor of their employes, and charge a 
 profit upon that labor besides, and there is 
 no reason why hotel keepers should do dif- 
 ferently. 
 
 4. Never, unless for very special reasons, 
 agree to furnish refreshments "just for the 
 fun of the thing," imagining that as the ho- 
 tel is already running it will not really cost 
 anything. Such extra spreads disarrange 
 your store-room keeper's accounts and 
 make extra book-keeping; they make tired 
 help and poor meals and poor service for 
 the hotel next day, perhaps for several days, 
 and great incidental waste and expenses 
 which the proprietor scarcely knows of ex- 
 cept in the final reckoning. The very special 
 reasons noted may be the necessity of ad- 
 vertising a new hotel; a sort of throwing 
 bread upon the waters. Thebread costs some- 
 thing, perhaps a good deal, nevertheless. 
 
 While the foregoing rules are principally 
 directed to hotel-keepers, the next is a most 
 valuable guide to every sort of caterer and
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 105 
 
 provider of meals, and ought to be kept in 
 memory. The worst feature of hotel party- 
 giving is the large excess of provisions 
 always prepared and left over; the prepar- 
 ing of twice as much as will be needed. 
 The fear that there may not be enough is 
 the reason of this superabundance, when 
 feasts are prepared without any basis of 
 calculation, yet it is easy to know in ad- 
 vance how much will be consumed by any 
 given number. 
 
 5. One hundred people at a party will 
 eat one hundred pounds of food and drink 
 one hundred pints of fluids. 
 
 That is, each person on an average eats 
 a pound and drinks a pint. 
 
 One hundred women eat less than the 
 same number of men many men eat 
 much more than a pound, but in a mixed 
 gathering the average remains as stated. 
 
 6. To furnish one hundred pounds of 
 cooked meat, it is necessary to buy two 
 hundred pounds, because meats in an aver- 
 age way lose half their weight in cooking 
 and trimming. Chickens and turkeys 
 lose more than half their raw weight, hams 
 and tongues lose less ; fresh meats and fish 
 just about half; consequently the calcula- 
 tion of two hundred pounds of raw meats, 
 poultry and fish for one hundred persons 
 is near enough for the average and is a 
 rule easy to remember. 
 
 7. As each person at a party will eat a 
 pound of something, where cheapness is 
 demanded the feast should be made up as 
 much as possible of things made of flour, 
 sugar and, sometimes, eggs. A supper of 
 all sorts of fancy yeast-raised cakes with 
 lemonade or ice cream can be furnished 
 for a few cents per head, while nothing in 
 the meat line can be served for less than 
 fifty cents and upwards, to serve only 
 one- half of a canvas-back duck to each 
 person may cost one dollar per head for 
 that one item alone. 
 
 8. Allow one quail for each person and 
 one-third more as a reserve for repeated 
 orders at a quail supper or breakfast, but 
 half a quail is enough for each person at a 
 course dinner, when quail forms the game 
 
 course. Smaller birds such as snipe can 
 not be divided. Spring chickens should 
 be calculated to serve half a chicken to 
 each person, but a good deal depends upon 
 their sizes and upon the consideration 
 whether chicken is to be the leading dish 
 of the meal or only a part of a dinner of 
 many courses. 
 
 9. To know how much of each kind of 
 meat, game or fish will be required in an 
 ample feast calculate that each person eats 
 two ounces of each kind a cut of beef or 
 ham weighs about two ounces, a quarter 
 of a young chicken about two ounces, an 
 ordinary helping of fish about two ounces, 
 sandwiches weigh one or two ounces each 
 according to the thinness of the bread. 
 Eight different kinds of food served in 
 two-ounce portions will make up the pound 
 that fills the capacity of the human stom- 
 ach for solids. 
 
 10. Guard against disaster by being 
 well fortified with a reserve of ice cream 
 and cake, cold chicken or turkey and ham 
 sandwiches. The feast may be all con- 
 sumed, the dinner or supper over, but if 
 these things remain all the late arrivals 
 can be made happy. 
 
 11. In some cases, such as winter ex- 
 cursion parties, the one thing of paramount 
 importance is hot coffee and means of 
 getting it served in short order. In all 
 cases the coffee is the first consideration. 
 Provide three-fourths of a pint that is two 
 cups for each person expected, or nine 
 gallons for a hundred people. This will 
 require four and a half pounds of ground 
 coffee or a pound for two gallons of ordi- 
 nary coffee, but for strong coffee for a 
 regular dinner a pound to one gallon is 
 required and less than half the quantity of 
 coffee is wanted by each person than is 
 necessary to provide for an excursion. 
 
 12. For an oyster supper calculate a 
 pint of soup or stew for each peison, made 
 up of one-half oysters (raw measure) and 
 one half milk. As both oysters in bulk 
 and milk are bought by the gallon this is 
 an easy calculation, it is twelve gallons for 
 one hundred persons of which six gallons
 
 106 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 are bulk oysters and six gallons milk. But 
 the oysters yield a large amount of liquor 
 in cooking, and when the stews are made 
 in these proportions the result will be only 
 one-third or even one-fourth of cooked 
 oysters in a bowl of oyster stew. 
 
 13. Large and choice oysters for frying 
 are bought by the hundred. A dozen will 
 fill an ordinary coffee cup. A dozen is a 
 portion for an oyster supper; four to six 
 for each person are plenty for a hotel 
 breakfast. When oysters form part of a 
 course dinner four to six for each person 
 are enough ; that will be a cupful of selects 
 for three persons, or four or five gallons of 
 large oysters for a hundred persons. It 
 will readily be understood that there is a 
 great difference between the requirements 
 of the boarders at a hotel table, where 
 oysters are served as commonly as beef or 
 bread, and a party supper where the people 
 come especially to eat oysters. 
 
 14. Dinners served in courses require 
 the preparation of greater quantities than 
 for ordinary meals or party suppers, for 
 two reasons: first, although all persons do 
 not eat the same things and some will eat 
 the relishes or vegetables and not touch 
 the fish or meat that is set before them, 
 yet it is necessary to place upon the table 
 enough for every one of each separate 
 course, and some of the dishes may be re- 
 turned to the kitchen scarcely touched; 
 and, second, the usual long duration of 
 course dinners, being anywhere from one 
 to three hours, allows the stomach to be- 
 come partially emptied of the first suste- 
 nance and enables people to actually eat 
 more at a sitting than the average suffici- 
 ency. They sit and perhaps sip stimulants 
 until they almost become hungry ag&in, 
 and the caterer may as well make his cal- 
 culations double for such occasions and 
 his charges according. However, nature 
 will assert itself at last and the caterer gets 
 even who has to furnish a few succeeding 
 meals to the same persons. 
 
 SOME EXCEPTIONS. 
 
 And now, having penned down the fore- 
 going rules which experience has shown 
 
 me are reliable guides to base calculations 
 upon most especially the pound-to-a-per- 
 son rule, the pint-of-fluids rule and the 
 two-ounce-portion rule, I am obliged to 
 talk over some exceptional cases, for fear 
 some unguarded young business man may 
 be led into trouble through placing a too 
 implicit faith in people. Our calculations 
 are made for the class of people one ex- 
 pects to meet at a genteel party gathering 
 and for well-fed and discriminating hotel 
 boarders, who do not generally fast a whole 
 day beforehand to make ready to gorge 
 themselves at the caterer's spread at night 
 It is a good many years ago, though I re- 
 member it as if yesterday, a young fellow 
 recently started in the restaurant and bak- 
 ing business, came to me at the hotel where 
 I was employed and said he had just been 
 offered the contract to furnish supper for 
 200 at fifty cents per head ; should he take 
 it? The occasion was a cheap ball at a 
 dollar a head including supper, to take 
 place in a public hall. Being like all new 
 beginners, anxious to secure a run of busi- 
 ness, he concluded he would and asked me 
 to help him with his calculations. I had 
 no rules to work by then, but we argued 
 that as the hotels could furnish such a good 
 and abundant dinner as they do for fifty 
 cents, there must certainly be a good profit 
 to be made out of a cold supper at the same 
 price, no very elaborate work being de- 
 manded nor anything particularly expens- 
 ive. Then we sized up the amount of 
 dinner that would be needed in a hotel for 
 200, and he proceeded on that basis and 
 made ready for the night. But a terrible 
 night he had of it. He set his pretty tables 
 as a young fellow will, with whole chick- 
 ens, hams and tongues decorated, expect- 
 ing his assistants to carve them and serve 
 everybody as orderly as in a hotel, but he 
 did not know the people he had to feed. 
 They had evidently been starving them- 
 selves for the purpose of making a gorge- 
 ous feast out of this fifty-cent banquet: 
 they waited for nothing, but after three 
 minutes of wild clamor they went for the 
 tables. One seized a whole ham on its dish
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 107 
 
 and took it to the corner where his family 
 sat; another took a dish of chickens; an- 
 other, finding no meat, took a whole cake, 
 another a. pyramid of something else; in 
 about eight minutes there was not a mor- 
 sel of anything left on the tables, a few 
 little bunches of people had secured every- 
 thing and the majority really had nothing. 
 
 There is a warning and a lesson for be- 
 ginners in that, the meats should all have 
 been cut up beforehand and many hun- 
 dreds of sandwiches prepared; whether 
 sliced meats, sandwiches, bread, oysters or 
 cake, everything should have been in 
 small portions upon hundreds of plates, so 
 that the people should all have fared alike 
 whether they got what they wanted or not, 
 and the provisions should have been served 
 from behind a barrier like a table set a 
 few feet back covered with plates of supper 
 with another table in front as a counter to 
 serve from or else out of small windows. 
 
 But to resume: my young friend was 
 then in serious trouble, his supper was all 
 gone, yet very few had been fed and a riot 
 was beginning. He got some of the big 
 bugs of the crowd to spread the word that 
 he had plenty more in his bakery and 
 would have it brought up immediately. 
 Then he took all his assistants and brought 
 up everything eatable that his restaurant 
 and bakery contained, beginning with cold 
 meats, canned goods, boiled eggs, taking 
 every pie and cake and loaf of bread and 
 at last giving up his boxes of crackers, 
 raisins and candies. And still the people 
 were unappeased, and scores of them de- 
 clared they had not got a morsel to eat yet. 
 There is no doubt but a good deal of stuff 
 was pocketed; then some were beginning 
 to see there was lots of fun in this thing, 
 particularly those who had secured lion's 
 shares of whole dishes and were laughing 
 at the others, and some, perhaps half 
 drunk, were hiding and witholding eatables 
 out of pure devilment. But my young 
 friend still continued his efforts to satisfy 
 them all; he was anxious about his reputa- 
 tion and also feared that the committee 
 might try to withold the pay if he did not 
 
 fulfill his part of the contract to furnish 
 suppers for all ; then he came to me, there 
 being no place open to buy at after mid- 
 night, and we persuaded a good-natured 
 hotel-keeper to sell him all the bread and 
 cooked meat there was in the house, and 
 with that relay and the impatience of the 
 company to go on with the dance, the 
 trouble was tided over. The young man 
 got his pay from the committee without 
 trouble, and all but a few of those present 
 thought the affair was a fine joke after it 
 was over. Of course the caterer lost 
 money, far beyond what he had hoped to 
 gain in profits, and was badly scared. As 
 this recital is but supplementary to the 
 rules above, I must add here some maxims 
 not less important. Cooking and service 
 go together. A pound to a person is suf- 
 ficient, but you must see that each person 
 gets his dues. If one person gets away 
 with four portions the other three may 
 raise a riot and be in the right, although 
 you have done your part in one respect. 
 The getting of each portion to each person 
 is the art of service. The art of providing 
 and cooking is only half, service is the 
 other half, without which the first is use- 
 less. 
 
 The other instances which I intended to 
 relate were of private receptions, where 
 the youthful guests perfect bunches of 
 flowers to look at acted astonishly ; but 
 on second thought I have concluded to say 
 nothing about them, but leave the circum- 
 stances to the readers' imagination, for 
 really all of us who cook and cater have a 
 sort of secret love of the hearty eaters, and 
 these young people of the very good soci- 
 ety of very good cities are quite excusable 
 for going without their home suppers and 
 even their home dinners in order to be 
 ready to do full justice to all the good 
 things we make for ihem. They live fru- 
 gally at home, as they must for the sake 
 of their healthy growth, and the beautiful 
 simple hygienic foods which they grow so 
 lovely upon are still rather insipid and 
 tasteless. They come to our parties and 
 every mouthful they try has a new rich-
 
 108 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 ness, every morsel has some exquisite and 
 unwonted flavor and they cannot resist, 
 they must eat and ask for more, they can 
 not help it, even though the astonished 
 hostess who has invited them has to go to 
 bed with a sick headache in consequence, 
 and the young and unsophisticated caterer 
 becomes old and gray-haired through the 
 terrible experience of a single night. I 
 would not even have alluded to these 
 things but for the purpose of saying the 
 caterer, whoever he or she may be for 
 many ladies are now engaged in the busi- 
 ness of furnishing refreshments to order to 
 'society" people's entertainments should 
 fortify themselves by having a reserve of 
 something plain and common, a quart or 
 gallon of the thinnest ice cream unflavored, 
 a lot of stale cake, something like sponge 
 cake two weeks old, or heavy pound cake 
 to taper off these abused feasts with. The 
 grown people, the appreciative people, all 
 take their sufficiency of the delicacies and 
 there is an end as far as they are con- 
 cerned, and the others, hollow young boys 
 and girls who cannot stop, have to be 
 weaned and choked off with something 
 common. 
 
 BALL SUPPERS. 
 
 It is so commonly the case that the 
 dance, and the supper both have to take 
 place in the one room, the hotel dining 
 room, because there is not a second room 
 large enough, that, in offering these sug- 
 gestions, I shall always have to consider 
 that the likeliest contingency ; yet it is by 
 no means the best or pleasantest way to 
 carry out such affairs. The best of all 
 such parties that I can call to mind have 
 been those where there was a ball room 
 separate from the supper room, where the 
 latter might be prepared in a leisurely 
 manner, decorated, set with the best skill 
 of the best table men, made to look hand- 
 some, and at the appointed moment the 
 doors were thrown open and the guests 
 marched in. Some pleasantly arranged 
 hotels have a parlor so large that it serves 
 the purpose of a ball room in ordinary 
 times, that is for everything but grand 
 
 balls attended by large numbers, and a 
 little forethought excercised by the build- 
 ers of hotels might generally lead to the 
 grand parlor and ladies' ordinary, or the 
 reading room or some other adjoining, 
 being fitted with sliding or removable 
 doors, all to be thrown into one ball room 
 without interfering with the main dining 
 hall at all. The city halls which caterers 
 serve entertainments in are so arranged as 
 to have separate dancing and supper rooms, 
 else they are not fit for the purpose, and 
 the caterer who finds the hall not so fitted 
 should think twice before he undertakes 
 the job, for supper-giving becomes a more 
 complicated and troublesome affair when 
 the dancers have to be asked to please stop 
 while the tables are set in the same room, 
 and again while they are cleared away. 
 
 HOW TO SET THE TABLES SMALL TABLES. 
 
 The most entirely satisfactory way of 
 setting out a ball supper, if the pleasure of 
 the participants is to be the main object, is 
 the setting of the small separate tables the 
 same as they are at dinner, although there 
 may be something grander and more im- 
 posing in the sight of two or three long 
 tables the whole length of the hall. Your 
 small tables are for bix or eight seats each ; 
 the people sit around them, sociably, com- 
 fortably, and have the proprietorship of 
 the one waiter, who knows his station and 
 cannot be called away. Supposing there 
 are twenty tables, the requirement is that 
 each table be set alike with cold dishes in 
 advance of the meal, with plates, silver 
 and napkins as for dinner; the people 
 march in when the signal is given, take 
 their places in groups at their favorite 
 tables and help themselves to the supper 
 already before them, the waiters being to 
 pass dishes from one end to the other, to 
 bring in the ices and coffee at the right 
 time and replenish any dish that may be 
 insufficient in the first setting. 
 
 WHAT TO SET UPON THEM. 
 
 There should be a center piece of flowers 
 or ferns or something ornamental. The
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 109 
 
 ordinary cruet stands are not admisssible, 
 but small novelties in china, silver or glass 
 for the purpose of holding the three or 
 four common seasonings may be found in 
 some inconspicuous position, and silver 
 sugar bowls newly filled, likewise. On 
 each side of the center piece set one de- 
 corated dish or bowl of salad, one decorated 
 dish of meat, and a small pyramid of neatly 
 shaped sandwiches piled upon a -hand- 
 somely folded napkin. The two salads 
 upon each table to be of different kinds, 
 the two dishes of decorated meats different, 
 the sandwiches different. 
 
 Besides these there must be plates of 
 bread or beaten biscuits, olives, pickles 
 or cress. The waiter in attendance at each 
 table observes and when the time to re- 
 move the dishes has arrived he immedi- 
 ately replaces the empty meat dishes with 
 ornamented baskets of assorted cakes and 
 bon-bons and choice fruit, which he has 
 already brought in upon his large tray and 
 kept upon his sideboard or stand-table; he 
 then changes the plates and at once pro- 
 ceeds to bring in the ices and jellies, 
 moulded and turned out upon a dish raised 
 in the middle and covered vith a fancy 
 folded napkin (or dish inverted in a larger 
 dish and covered with the napkin), and 
 lastly, brings in the coffee in small cups, 
 an individual silver pitcher of cream along 
 with each cup. 
 
 WHAT MAKES THE DIFFERENCE IN COST 
 OF SUPPERS. 
 
 Referring to the foregoing as a sample, 
 I will offer a little information now to the 
 committees who come proposing "a nice 
 pleasant social hop, you know, and a little 
 plain refreshments we don't want much, 
 but want it decently served, rather elegant, 
 you know, but nothing costly we have 
 been thinking we ought to have a couple 
 of salads, two or three kinds of cold meats 
 or sandwiches or both, and a little cake and 
 ice cream to finish off with that won't be 
 much trouble, will it? Now, what will it 
 cost .us? How low can it be done?" 
 
 "Well, sirs, I am sorry to say a little 
 
 plain pleasure should cost so much, but 
 that Httle supper will cost you two dollars 
 a head, four dollars a couple." 
 
 "Oh, nonsense," says committee impa- 
 tiently, "the tickets to the ball including 
 supper and everything are only five dollars 
 a couple, and you would leave only one 
 dollar for all the remaining expenses?" 
 
 " Well, as you have not specified what 
 the particular meats and salads and creams 
 are to be, we will retrench a little and put 
 it down at a dollar and a half a head, but 
 there is no inducement in it at that price." 
 
 " That is altogether too high yet," says 
 committee, " what, for a little cold meat, 
 salad, ice cream and cake a dollar and a 
 half apiece! We can go to your best hotel 
 and have the best dinner they can get up 
 any day for a dollar, and here you want 
 for a plain " 
 
 "Wait, gentlemen, let me tell you how 
 that is, you can have the supper for a dol- 
 lar a head if you have it as plain and scanty 
 as your words would describe it. It was 
 your putting in the little words elegant and 
 decently served that raised it to two dollars, 
 for those expressions imply decoration, 
 skilled labor, extra-paid over-time, trained 
 waiters and plenty of them, good table 
 ware and plenty of it, and choice viands 
 instead of cheap ones. There is no mean- 
 ing in 'a little ice cream and cake,' for 
 there must be enough in quantity or none, 
 but plain cake and plain ice cream you can 
 have cheap enough ; if you run to varieties 
 of molded ices, jellies and macaroons it 
 takes up much time of skilled hands with 
 several assistants, and thus the expense 
 grows the same as with the mea's." 
 
 QUANTITIES AND QUALITIES. 
 
 If you have the roast-cook to plain-roast 
 40 chickens for part of the supper of the 
 150 or 160 persons, who will be seated at 
 the 20 eight-seat tables before mentioned, 
 and when the chickens have become cold 
 have some careful but ordinary helper to 
 cut them up and place the pieces into 20 
 dishes, one for each table; it is a plain and 
 simple matter of small expense. But if,
 
 110 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 after the chickens become cold, the meat 
 must be pulled from the bones and freed 
 from skin, then be cut, not hashed, and 
 added to a similar lot of celery, and there 
 must be made by a skillful cook from two 
 to four quarts of mayonaise dressing for it, 
 consuming, before the salad is complete, 
 about a gallon of fine olive oil, the chicken 
 begins to be expensive. If then it is to be 
 kept in a pan or large platter and dished 
 out by spoonfuls it is still not very dear 
 nor at all elegant. But if on the contrary, 
 it is to be shaped in a suitable mould, 
 turned out into 20 dishes, one for each 
 table and all alike, and then spread over 
 with the dressing skillfully, decorated with 
 perhaps a dollars worth of capers, a similar 
 value in olives, and as many quartered 
 eggs, the 40 original roast chickens have 
 become "elegant," but also expensive, and 
 that not so much owing to the materials as 
 to the tediousnesss of all the operations, 
 occupying for several hours one or two 
 skilled hands and some assistants, and the 
 little salad is but one-eighth or, likelier, 
 one-twelfth of all the dishes to be made. 
 
 The 40 plates of sandwiches which are 
 part of the sample supper previously de- 
 tailed two plates to a table, the kinds be- 
 ing different, may be equally plain, mere 
 sliced bread and meat, or may consume 
 hours in their preparation, as when made 
 of grated tongue, minced ham, sardines, 
 anchovy butter and veal or chopped 
 pickled oysters and butter, and the various 
 combinations, the bread having to be very 
 thin and cut to symmetrical shapes all of 
 one size and appearance. The most tedious 
 are rolled sandwiches, each one having to 
 be tied with a ribbon and the more trouble- 
 some when the bread is of a contrary 
 nature, too brittle to roll easily. 
 
 To mould the charlottes and jellies, 
 whether in 160 individual moulds or 
 whether in 40 moulds two for each table 
 is another time-consuming operation and 
 requires room in the refrigerators to set 
 them, which is often very hard to find 
 whereas if only to be " spooned out " they 
 may be kept easily in a tub of ice-water and 
 
 served cheaply. To mould ice creams and 
 turn them out successfully requires skilled 
 workmen instead of helpers from first to 
 last, and doubles or more than doubles 
 their cost 
 
 These examples should serve to explain 
 why the very same eatables can either be 
 served at a profit for one dollar or served 
 at a less profit for two dollars. I have no 
 inclination to pursue the subject to the 
 point of tediousness, but it remains to say 
 that a .cheap supper must be attended by 
 but half as many waiters or even one third 
 as many. All of the dishes, both meats 
 and sweets, can be put upon the tables at 
 once and the guests left almost entirely to 
 help themselves, and instead of making 
 two courses or " services " of it all the few 
 waiters have to do is to begin to bring in 
 the plain saucers of ice cream as soon as 
 they can in order to get all served without 
 any having to wait. For it is to be remem- 
 bered always that a ball supper is only an 
 incident of the ball, an interval in the danc- 
 ing, which many people wish to make short 
 and not lose much time over; it is not the 
 principal object in the meeting and haste 
 in serving it is always excusable. 
 
 WHAT DECORATED MEAT DISHES CON- 
 SIST OF. 
 
 The 40 decorated cold meat dishes named 
 for our sample ball supper may consist of 
 anything in cold meats which is named in 
 any of the bills of fare to be found in these 
 pages; but, to be explicit, the plainly cut 
 up roast chicken already instanced may 
 be arranged in neat shape in the dishes 
 and bordered with water-cress or garden 
 cress, or, rather, the cress should be placed 
 in the dish first and chicken upon it. The 
 cress is a good relish to eat with the 
 chicken, but if none to be had then border 
 with parsley, and it becomes a decorated 
 meat dish. To do better than that, the 
 breasts only of the chickens should be cut 
 in thin slices, without bones, trimmed a 
 little to make them nearly of one shape 
 and size, laid in order in the dish and bord- 
 ered with green and with sliced lemons.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 Ill 
 
 Next above that may be instanced breast 
 of chicken (or turkey) decorated with jelly, 
 the jelly chopped, put into a paper cornet 
 and pressed out of the point in piping the 
 same as in icing cakes, also, the jelly in 
 any kind of fancy shapes placed with a 
 knife. Next may be smoked tongue thinly 
 sliced and decorated in the dishes or, com- 
 moner, red corned tongue. There are such 
 dishes as white veal cut into round pieces 
 like silver dollars, two pieces together with 
 grated tongue between and a spot of jelly 
 on to?) cold oyster pies or patties or sim- 
 ilar potties and vol-au-vents filled with 
 finely cut game or chicken in a sauce, cold 
 but rich and as firm as jelly. There are 
 boned chickens and galantines of various 
 things which are in effect, ornamental and 
 spicy-flavored rolls of boneless meat, very 
 handy to slice and savory eating, and 
 among the most expensive decorated cold 
 meat dishes may be named boned quail 
 and other birds in aspic jelly and stuffed 
 or decorated with truffles and plovers' 
 eggs. It is the tediousness, trouble and 
 elaborateness of these things which makes 
 most of the difference between one-dollar 
 and two-dollar suppers, and the addition of 
 wine that makes the difference between 
 five dollars and ten. 
 
 WHAT THE ORNAMENTAL BASKETS OF 
 CAKE CONTAIN. 
 
 As far as the giving an inviting appear- 
 ance to the tables is concerned the baskets 
 or stands of cut cake have quite as good 
 an effect as elaborately ornamented cakes, 
 provided the cut cakes are made suitable 
 for the purpose. Ordinary slices of cakes 
 baked in deep moulds cannot be made 
 much of, they are slices of cakes and noth- 
 ing more. Bake cakes of different sorts in 
 thin sheets, differently flavored and of dif- 
 ferent tints and textures. Place some of 
 the sheets two together with jam and jelly 
 between, and leave some as they are. 
 Take a bowl of fine powdered sugar and 
 wet it either with wine, with bright-colored 
 fruit syrups, with yolk of eggs for yellow, 
 with chocolate syrup or with plain water; 
 
 for each sheet of cake make this plain 
 sugar coating a different flavor, make the 
 wet sugar so thick that it will just barely 
 settle down smooth and glossy when 
 poured on the sheets of cake, and ice over 
 the top of every sheet so prepared, except 
 one for plain cake for those who prefer it 
 Besides the plain white, chocolate and yel- 
 low, the fruit syrup will have made a red 
 or pink sheet, if not, color one bowl of wet 
 sugar. It needs no beating, this kind of 
 icing, and will dry on the sheets of cake 
 in an hour. To further increase the vari- 
 ety, chop some of the greenest citron and 
 sprinkle it over a white sheet while still 
 wet, do the same for a pink sheet. Take 
 some grated fresh cocoanut, clean and free 
 from specks and strew it over one or two 
 other sheets while still fresh-iced and wet, 
 and scatter split almonds or walnuts over 
 another. To make another kind mix grated 
 or scraped almond paste with the sugar 
 and spread that upon a sheet or between 
 two sheets. Let the flavors be various; 
 almond, pineapple, orange, vanilla, banana, 
 lemon, anise, peppermint, peach. 
 
 These broad sheets of cake having been 
 prepared, the next thing ornamental is to 
 cut them carefully and the special recom- 
 mendation of this plain sugar-and-water 
 icing is that it will not break, but can be 
 cut into any fancy shape that the cake will 
 bear. Cut some of the sheets into crescents 
 with a biscuit cutter, cut some in dia- 
 monds, some in squares. Now bring 
 alongside an assorted lot of macaroons, 
 egg kisses, solid kisses, hollow kisses, or 
 meringues a la cr&me baked on boards; 
 chocolate meringues, rose meringues, and 
 stars and fingers, and covering the basket 
 with a handsomely folded napkin you can 
 stack up a pyramid of assorted cakes that 
 will be more immediately attractive and 
 give more satisfaction than an elaborately 
 ornamented cake on which two to three 
 days' work has been put could do, and 
 these assortments, fortunately, are not par- 
 ticularly tedious to make, if we except the 
 meringues in large quantities. In addition, 
 or for a change from these, there are the
 
 112 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 jelly rolls, variously iced and colored and 
 coated with almonds or fresh cocoanut 
 before slicing; there are the various sponge 
 drops and fingers, wafers and curled snaps 
 and small cakes iced with chocolate and 
 piped with white. 
 
 But in the more elaborately set table the 
 one basket of this sort will be matched on 
 the other side by a whole cake with some 
 light and fragile kind of ornamentation 
 raised upon it, but this cake under present 
 fashions must be cut, if only one section 
 taken out, to invite immediate use. It 
 must be of little weight, shallow in the 
 mould, regularly iced with white-of-egg 
 icing and beautifully bordered and flowered, 
 besides the raised ornamentation, and 
 forms the pastry cook's offset and compet- 
 itor to the meat cooks' decorated galantine. 
 
 WHAT THE MOULDED ICES AND JELLIES 
 ARE. 
 
 It is a pity to have to say what they are, 
 for the grand endeavor of caterers both 
 public and private is to get something new 
 in this line to beat somebody else. There 
 is an effort to make new effects in the meat 
 line, but that is more difficult; but when it 
 comes to the sweets it is thought they are 
 like toys, only passing fancies, and may be 
 used to further any fantastic notions that 
 igenious people may adopt. However, as 
 this might seem a formidable task to have 
 to invent a new device for every ball sup- 
 per or other party, it is encouraging to 
 remember that every old invention is new 
 in any place where it has never been seen 
 before, and the fancy form of ice which 
 may have been served up to the queen of 
 Sweden thirty years ago is still a charming 
 novelty in almost any town or city where 
 the caterers have not been too enterprising 
 already. All the cook books and all the 
 confectiona'.-y books therefore will furnish 
 notions for something beyond plain ice 
 cream. There is the brick of ice cream in 
 three colors to be sliced, that is the pana- 
 chee or Neapolitan ; the brick or mould of 
 any kind having an outside coat of one 
 color, the inside filled with a different kind; 
 
 that is the bombe. The plain yellow ice 
 cream may be pinched up between a pair of 
 pewter moulds hinged together (or first 
 dipped in water), and the ice cream drops 
 out when they are opened in the likeness 
 of a peeled banana. Another pair of moulds 
 makes a pear or a peach, a little pink ice 
 being placed in the mould to make the 
 blush; another pair makes an egg, another 
 a stalk of asparagus, with some green pista- 
 chio nut ice in the end to make the head. 
 These moulds, dipped in water after each 
 form is made, will form the ice cream out 
 of the large freezer as fast as they can be 
 carried in by the waiters, if three or four 
 hands be employed at it at once. 
 
 To give an idea of what the caterers do 
 in the city society circles, where nothing 
 whatever is new and the party givers have 
 a great repugnance to repeating what some 
 society rival has already done, the follow- 
 ing extracts from correspondents' letters 
 will prove useful. 
 
 It has to be said further in praise of the 
 small tables for party suppers that they 
 admit of the adoption of all the new de- 
 vices of private parties, it being only neces- 
 sary to multiply them, one for each of 
 twenty or forty tables itself an achieve- 
 ment worthy the ambition of any hotel 
 manager or caterer; and, besides, the room 
 full of small tables, and they fully occupied 
 by people in full dress, makes just such a 
 scene as only th^ finest appointed restau- 
 rants in the world can equal during their 
 best hours. But to our extracted para- 
 graphs : 
 
 " The desire of the fashionable world for 
 some new things lead them into queer 
 freaks now and then. One of the queere&t, 
 and to my mind the nastiest, is the latest 
 form in which ices are served. Last year 
 the favorite method of serving them was 
 pretty and picturesque, consisting of little 
 plated silver candlesticks. These contained 
 a colored ice frozen in the form of a fancy 
 candle. In the top of this was thrust a wax 
 taper to be lit just before serving, and the 
 whole crowned with a tiny silk shade. 
 When they were served with the tapers
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 113 
 
 lit the effect was extremely pretty, and, 
 after admiring it, one pulled off the shade, 
 extinguished the taper and proceeded, like 
 the Esquimaux, to lunch upon candles. 
 
 " But this year the very latest Parisian 
 idea is to serve the ices in the shape of a 
 family washtub, filled to the brim with 
 meringue in imitation of soap suds, and in 
 these white masses one is permitted to fish 
 at random to bring up whatsoever piece of 
 the family wash fate or luck assigns one. 
 To some fell a stocking in pink ice, an- 
 other gets a cuff or a collar, or a square 
 that is supposed to represent a handker- 
 chief. The whole idea is revolting, and, 
 strange to say, has been very popular. 
 Much more charming were the ices at a 
 luncheon given by the Misses Furniss the 
 other day to thirty young women, where, 
 It being a " hen party," the ices appeared 
 in the shape of a big motherly hen sitting 
 In a nest of spun sugar surrounded by eggs 
 of vari-colored ices. 
 
 "The most novel dinner device of which 
 I have heard recently was a mould of wine 
 jelly in the midst of which was set an elec- 
 tric light. The dish had to be arranged 
 on the table beforehand, but it was con- 
 cealed by a big silver cover, which was in 
 turn hidden by flowers so as to form a centre 
 piece to the table. When the cover was 
 removed and the jelly, with its cluster of 
 red and golden and purple fires, was dis- 
 closed, the effect was quite tremendous. 
 One lady, it is true, asked her escort if he 
 didn't suppose the jelly would taste elec- 
 trical, and another in eating it declared she 
 felt as if she were swallowing a Leyden jar; 
 but the device was really very pretty, as 
 well as novel and striking." 
 
 And here is a pretty fancy, which words 
 would be insufficient to describe, orange 
 
 peel baskets filled with jelly. One such 
 dish for each of our 20 tables would be 
 about right. There are eight of them, just 
 enough to go around. 
 
 SETTING LONG TABLES. 
 
 These small tables may be placed end to 
 end to make two long tables down the hall, 
 but in locating them it is necessary to 
 ascertain by actual trial whether after plac- 
 ing the two rows of chairs there will be 
 room between them for the waiters to pass 
 along freely, if not some other form of ar- 
 rangement may be necessary, as some- 
 times there is a long table and another 
 across the end in the form of a T. And 
 to save waiters and make expeditious ser- 
 vice in such a hall, there are often side 
 stands or tables set with some of the dishes 
 or having the ice cream behind them as 
 behind a counter, all so near the main 
 tables that the work of handing over is 
 but very slight. 
 
 The long tables are the more imposing, 
 and are always to be preferred when 
 speech-making is to follow the supper or 
 dinner, for the obvious reason that the 
 company already faces the speaker either 
 from the right or left without moving the 
 chairs. 
 
 The tables are set according to the occa- 
 sion ; for a grand banquet they are deco- 
 rated with tall designs in flowers, which it 
 is the florists' special business to furnish, 
 and at times with statuettes, if possible 
 emblematical of the cause of the gather- 
 ing, and at such times great use is found 
 for the confectioners' images modelled in 
 sugar, and significant designs even in pyra- 
 mids of meat. For the less formal ball 
 supper, the tables being decorated with 
 flowers and foliage according to the chang- 
 ing fashions, which may call for loosely 
 trailing vines, mats of moss and scattered 
 roses or violets this year and tall vases of 
 flowers only next year, may still be much 
 enriched by small stands of decorated 
 meats, baskets of cake and ornamented 
 cakes, precisely as for the small tables al- 
 ready described in detail. It is only re-
 
 114 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 quired that these stands of handsomely 
 prepared eatables shall be of but a secon- 
 dary prominence, not so large or so nu- 
 merous as to make the tables look like a 
 candy stand at a fair. They are to be to a 
 well set table what statuary is in a grove, 
 or like bunches of ready-ripe fruit in a late 
 orchard. 
 
 One waiter to every ten chairs is the re* 
 quirement for this style of table, and if an 
 oyster supper, or partly hot and partly cold 
 meal, as the people all come in at once and 
 expect instant service, the oysters should 
 be placed at each place at the minute be- 
 fore the doors are thrown open, and the 
 bulk of the supper being already on the 
 table the waiters have little to do except 
 pass the dishes within reach until the time 
 comes for the ices and sweets. 
 
 WHERE THEY DANCE IN THE DINING 
 ROOM. 
 
 That is all very fine and easy of accomp- 
 lishment where there is a ball room as well 
 as a dining room and where the setting of 
 the tables and furnishing ihem with new 
 and startling effects may begin three or 
 four hours or even a day before the ban- 
 quet, but where, as in thousands of hotels, 
 there is but the one room large enough a 
 different line of management has to be 
 pursued. 
 
 THE STAND-UP SUPPER. 
 
 It is not to be inferred that these follow- 
 ing described ways of serving suppers are 
 any less the ways of the Jiaut-ton, are any 
 less fashionable and proper than the regu- 
 lar set table because they are specially re- 
 ferred to the places of limited accommoda- 
 tions, they are simply less troublesome, 
 stiff and formal, and their very informality 
 causes these methods to be chosen in places 
 where the facilities are as ample for any 
 other method. The stand-up supper is 
 credited to the inventive genius, perhaps 
 we might say to the leader-like boldness, 
 of Ude, the celebrated cook or maitre 
 d'hotel to one of the later French kings, 
 Louis XVI, perhaps, and who flourished 
 
 about a century ago. It was the stand-up 
 supper idea which first made him talked 
 about in every fashionable gathering, for 
 there was a touch of philanthropy about it 
 on his part, and the court beauties praised 
 him for his sympathy with their dilemma 
 they could not sit down and were doomed 
 to see the most magnificent feasts spread 
 out of which they could not enjoy a mor- 
 sel. The peculiar fashions in dress at that 
 time caused the trouble. A lady fashion- 
 ably attired for a ball could not sit in a 
 chair without ruining her dress, and most 
 of them in consequence made martyrs of 
 themselves by not tasting snpper, prefer- 
 ing to stay so crinolined, starched and 
 frilled till the close of the festival rather 
 than eat at the sacrifice of their toilettes. 
 Ude said, when he was catering for these 
 brillant court festivities, that as fashion 
 could not come to the supper, the supper 
 should come to fashion, and he set his 
 tables and spread his feasts without having 
 a chair in the room. He filled the dishes 
 with small-cut dainties, placed them on 
 raised sideboards in front of great mirrors 
 and placed at each place nothing to eat 
 with but a fork, and, naturally, for this 
 accommodating change of custom the 
 brilliant beauties were grateful and the 
 stand-up supper was thereafter the proper 
 thing throughout the fashionable world. 
 Ude and the fashion makers of that time 
 "builded wiser than they knew," for the re- 
 sort to the stand-up method has helped out 
 unnumbered thousands of caterers as noth- 
 ing else would. A man has a large enter- 
 tainment to serve; he can secure a hall or 
 some place that will answer for one, but it 
 is unfurnished ; he can make impromptu 
 tables of planks upon trestles, can cover 
 them if need be with the finest damask 
 tablecloths and then his roughly made 
 tables may serve the temporary purpose as 
 well as if they were mahogany and marble, 
 but it may be very difficult to procure 
 chairs and rough boards for seats will not 
 do. Or it may be the supper is calculated 
 down to the lowest degree of cheapness; 
 to procure chairs for so many will neces-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 115 
 
 sitate the employment of wagons and 
 hands to bring and carry back and would 
 greatly increase the cost of the entertain- 
 ment. In such cases the stand-up supper 
 is resorted to. But more frequently it is 
 adopted because of the scarcity of room. 
 Even while the people are dancing one 
 side or one end of the hall can be taken 
 possession of by the caterer, steward or 
 headwaiter and long tables can be set. It 
 is better in such cases if there can be a 
 screen to temporarily part off that part of 
 the room ; it may be even worth while to 
 have such a screen made for the purpose. 
 Then the table or tables are set almost the 
 same as for dinner, but with the plates 
 nearer together, with as many plates and 
 forks as there are guests. It is an object 
 to do almost entirely without waiters, but 
 place the decorated dishes of meatsevery- 
 thing ready sliced the salads with a spoon 
 in each dish, the small pastries, al! of indi- 
 vidual size and everything else, except ice 
 cream and coffee, in numerous small dishes 
 quite near together so that there will be no 
 need of waiters, but every gentleman can 
 reach a portion of everything for any lady, 
 and not see something different or better 
 further down the table that is to say: the 
 tables should be set exactly alike from one 
 end to the other with a portion of every 
 kind in everybody's reach. 
 
 But here is a grand caution to be ob- 
 served. The ice cream and coffee have 
 still to be brought in and the people will 
 be so closely packed together at the tables 
 these trays cannot be carried in behind 
 them without risk of the direst accidents 
 to the ball dresses, besides the awkward- 
 ness of everybody having to turn around 
 and step aside to admit the service. Nothing 
 is more frequent than to see these ill-con- 
 sidered arrangements put into operation 
 during the season of public entertainments, 
 the difficulty seeming never to be thought 
 of until it is experienced. The ways to 
 avoid it and admit of a little waiter-service 
 all through the supper is to set double 
 tables; that is two tables or even broad 
 boards nearly together, but with just room 
 
 enough for a waiter or two to pass down 
 between them and hand the cups of coffee 
 over, the guests occupying only the out- 
 side of the two long tables. The most con- 
 venient of all is to set the tables in horse- 
 shoe fashion or a hollow square, the 
 servers being inside, but where there is 
 not room for them the tables may be ranged 
 along the wall, with only just room enough 
 between the wall and tables for waiters to 
 pass along. 
 
 THE BAZAAR SUPPER. 
 
 This is the prettiest form of stand-up 
 supper it might almost be termed the 
 walk-around supper. It admits of the 
 supper being spread in several smaller 
 rooms where there is but the one large 
 enough for dancing, and tables may even 
 be set in hallways and verandas. It is like 
 the going from one table to another for 
 different viands at the festivals and bazaars 
 which the ladies conduct in every town 
 during the season. In preparing for a 
 large number, however, it is necessary to 
 have a number of tables set exclusively 
 with meat dishes the cut meats, salads, 
 sandwiches, etc., and other tables beyond 
 containing only sweets the berries and 
 cream, cakes, coffee, confectionery, etc. 
 Some evening entertainments of many 
 descriptions besides balls and hops are very 
 successfully managed on this plan, where 
 people stroll by twos to the tables and eat 
 standing though the simultaneous seating 
 of so many would be quite impracticable. 
 
 THE HANDED SUPPER. 
 
 It is not to be denied, however, that the 
 stand-up supper is but the meal of expedi- 
 ency; not the most comfortable for the 
 participants, but only the best that can be 
 done under certain circumstances. It may 
 well be supposed that the very court 
 ladies, for whose benefit it was first insti- 
 tuted, would have preferred to be seated if 
 they could. There is another motive for 
 the stand-up repast which has not been 
 mentioned, that is the desire to cut the 
 supper short, for the people who would sit 
 perhaps an hour in leisurely enjoyment at 
 a regular set table will get through a
 
 116 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 stand-up in fifteen minutes, a very import- 
 ant consideration where many speeches 
 have to be made in another hall, or a num- 
 ber of figures of a german gone through 
 before daylight comes. 
 
 The real social hop supper is the handed- 
 around one, the best known way and mnst 
 generally adopted in hotels, and next to 
 the regular set table the pleasantest. This 
 can be managed in two ways, of which the 
 plainest is to serve everything on trays 
 brought from the kitchen or pantry, the 
 guests remaining seated in the ball room. 
 If it is the hotel dining-room the tables 
 have been carried out, and all else, but the 
 chairs remain ranged around the walls. 
 The man who "calls off" the dances an- 
 nounces that after the next dance refresh- 
 ments will be handed around by the wait- 
 ers and ladies and gentlemen are requested 
 to keep their seats where they are. When 
 the time arrives waiters come in and hand 
 a napkin to each of the guests, who spread 
 it on their lap, and other waiters follow 
 with trays filled with small plates, filled as 
 at private receptions, with portions of per- 
 haps three or four different kinds; for 
 example: a spoonful of shrimp or lobster 
 salad, a slice of breast of turkey, one or 
 two beaten biscuits, three or four pitted 
 olives, and a fork ; or a portion of chicken 
 salad, a grated tongue sandwich, a slice of 
 boned turkey with currant jelly, a buttered 
 biscuit and a pickle or two. As soon as 
 all are served with these the waiters begin 
 to bring in trays of ice cream and cake 
 the necessity if condensation requiring the 
 saucer of ice cream or punch-glass of sher- 
 bet to be placed on the same plate with the 
 two or three pieces of cake and a spoon 
 and pass around to whomsoever may be 
 ready first, taking up the meat plates and 
 replacing with the sweets. It does not 
 work well, unless the waiters are well 
 accustomed to it and watchful, to let one 
 go along and take up the meat plates and 
 another follow with the sweets, as some 
 are sure to be missed altogether. Each 
 waiter should have but a small load easily 
 handled and make the change complete as 
 
 he goes along. After that coffee is offered 
 in the same way, while lemonade or glasses 
 of water should be passed about the room 
 freely by other waiters during the whole 
 time of supper, until all hands are required 
 to gather up the plates and napkins at the 
 finish. 
 
 THE ORNAMENTAL HANDED SUPPER. 
 
 The last described being the plainest and 
 easiest, the portions on the plates all pre- 
 pared outside and no whole dishes having 
 to be shown, is the sort of supper which 
 hotel-keepers can best afford to give in a 
 complimentary way to their guests, as they 
 are so often obliged to do, and is for many 
 reasons the least troublesome and least 
 expensive. Here is another way of doing 
 nearly the same thing, which perhaps may 
 be claimed to be the best of all (but only 
 for genteel pcop'e who can be depended 
 on to behave well) as it gives a chance for 
 display and leaves the most lasting impres- 
 sion upon the visitors. It is to bring a 
 table or two or three, of the ordinary small 
 size, ready set with some tall ornamental 
 dishes or pyramids into the dining room 
 when the dancing ceases and serve the 
 supper to the people, all seated as in the 
 other instance, from these tables instead of 
 from the outside. In this service there is 
 a little less of the "keep-your-seat" sort of 
 restraint than by the other way. The 
 tables hold something to be looked at and it 
 follows that the people walk around them 
 to see what there is, and, later on the 
 gentlemen have a chance to assist the ser- 
 vice in a way which they generally are very 
 glad to do by helping the ladies to some 
 coveted dainty from the tables or replen- 
 ishing a plate before the waiter's attention 
 can be secured. Nevertheless, it is a nap- 
 kin supper like the last, and these serviettes 
 are to be passed around (only to those who 
 are found seated), and then plates with 
 portions of three or four dishes sent to 
 them from the tables as fast as they can 
 be filled and distributed. 
 
 It is an object to make the table or tables 
 hold all that is required for the supper.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 117 
 
 They may be set while the dance is going 
 on, in the kitchen or carving room or any 
 handy place and when the time comes 
 carried in by a sufficient number of hands 
 through the doors into the dining room 
 without disarranging anything. In the 
 center may be a tall piece of the pastry 
 cook's be&t work ; a number of dishes of 
 salad all decorated should be placed at 
 intervals along with all other such dishes 
 as have been suggested already for the 
 supper with small set tables, the grand 
 advantage of this style being that one 
 elaborately ornamented dish of a kind is 
 sufficient for all the company to see, while 
 the other way calls for one such for every 
 separate table. After the meats have been 
 served the dishes may be removed and the 
 moulded ices or plain ice cream and wine 
 jellies, charlotte russe, orange baskets, me- 
 ringues, or whatever could not be crowded 
 on the tables at the first setting may be 
 brought in their places and served from 
 
 the table as they were. It is quite essential 
 in setting these show tables to allow room 
 enough for piles of small plates, glass cake 
 plates, glass jelly saucers, punch cups, 
 forks, spoons, and a few knives besides the 
 crockery on a side table for the waiters' 
 use, in order that the guests may have 
 facilities for helping themselves and each 
 other when the service is slow. All orna- 
 mental cakes for such a supper should 
 have a small section already cut out and a 
 knife placed ready, to show that they are 
 for use and not for ornament only, and 
 then the quantities needed for the supper 
 may be calculated according to rules al- 
 ready given so closely that these decorated 
 affairs will have to be cut up in order to 
 make enough however, when there are 
 not so many people present as provisi6n 
 was made for these larger pieces, like de- 
 corated hams, iced cakes and galantines 
 cased in jelly, are the dishes best worth re- 
 serving. 
 
 
 A CHARTREUSE OF VEGETABLES. 
 
 A TURBAN OF FILLETS OF FISH.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 TZHCIIRID. 
 
 COMPRISING 
 
 Catering for Private Parties 
 
 o 
 
 A GUIDE TO PARTY CATERING. 
 
 WEDDING BREAKFASTS, FANTASIES OF PARTY GIVERS, 
 
 Model Small Menus and Noteworthy Suppers, 
 
 "WITH 
 
 ALSO, 
 
 CA TERING ON A GRAND SCALE 
 
 ORIGINAL AND SELECTED EXAMPLES OF 
 
 MAMMOTH CATERING OPERATIONS, SHOWING THE SYSTEMS 
 FOLLOWED BY THE LARGEST CATERING ESTAB- 
 LISHMENTS IN THE WORLD. 
 
 ALSO, A DISQUISITION ON 
 
 HEAD WAITERS AND THEIR TROOPS. 
 
 JESSUP WHITEHEAD. 
 
 CHICAGO 
 
 1899.
 
 Entered according to Act of Congress in the Office of the Librarian, at Washington, by 
 JESSLT WHITEHEAD, 1887 and 1889. All rights reserved.
 
 CATERING FOR PRIVATE PARTIES. 
 
 Large catering establishments are like 
 large hotels, few in number, of slow 
 growth, costly to rear, expensive to carry 
 on, difficult to buy or succeed to, but still 
 there is small work for small caterers in 
 tens of thousands of places, and real de- 
 mand for skill and talent in that line the 
 same as for excellent cooks and waiters in 
 hotels. It is, of course, a peculiar line of 
 work taking it all together for which only 
 a few are adapted ; it is not sufficient to be 
 a good cook, there must be a special 
 knowledge of the dishes most suitable for 
 party suppers and dinners and of what is 
 fashionable, which may entirely exclude 
 the things which a cook may beat the 
 world at for hotel dinners, and, in addition, 
 there must be a knowledge of table setting 
 and waiter work and various matters of 
 propriety. The beginnings of the party 
 catering trade are, however, simple enough. 
 A man keeps a small restaurant or bakery 
 and confectionery, or all combined, and is 
 applied to by some simple-minded lady 
 who asks him how much he will charge 
 her to make and bake a cake for her party 
 if she furnishes the materials, or what he 
 will charge to roast her turkey if she sends 
 it already prepared for cooking and sends 
 butter to baste it with, and how much 
 butter will it take? The man gives a smil- 
 ing and courteous answer, whether he ac- 
 cepts such a contract or not, and the next 
 may be a lady who has heard talk of some 
 fine thing, perhaps a fillet of beef, larded, 
 being served at a private party somewhere 
 and asks if he can furnish such a dish for 
 her coming entertainment, is probably 
 pleased and proud to find that he can and 
 may end by giving him an extensive order 
 and his first opportunity to show whether 
 he is capable of doing the society party 
 Work of the town. A man who is a cook 
 
 only finds one who is a head waiter 01 
 competent to be one ; a waiter or butler 
 starting in such a business finds an accom- 
 plished cook, and the two together make 
 it go. Cooking and service must go to- 
 gether. 
 
 In tens of thousands of cases where 
 parties are given, the right combination is 
 not available. Society entertains every- 
 where ; the ladies carry on the service part 
 and only call on the cooks. There are 
 numbers of cooks in every city of medium 
 size and in some large towns, who never 
 take regular employment, but hold them- 
 selves for all such odd jobs of cooking for 
 parties, in private houses, and sometimes 
 take little contracts, hire waiters, furnish 
 everything and carry an affair through 
 themselves. For cooking by the day they 
 get good wages, ranging from five to ten 
 dollars a day or for the day and part of the 
 night taken up in serving the feast, and for 
 some elaborate spreads the work of pre- 
 paration may keep them employed for a 
 week, and one who gains a reputation for 
 special skill and reliability may be em- 
 ployed every day during the social season ; 
 may have more offers of employment than 
 he can accept; may secure an advanced 
 price for his services, but as in all other 
 lines " it is the longest pole that knocks 
 the persimnron," the man must excel in 
 something or he will never be more than 
 a laborer. There is never a private enter- 
 tainment but the lady at the head of it 
 would, if she could, have something to beat 
 some other party ; would like to have some- 
 thing which her friendly rivals have never 
 had, particularly anything mentioned in 
 the fashion papers or fashion correspond- 
 ence, as in vogue somewhere, but which 
 no lady of her round of acquaintances has 
 yet been able to secure. Then the caterer 
 
 (126)
 
 126 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 of whatever grade who can furnish the 
 most novelties comes to the top. This is 
 really a very serious phase of the whole 
 society catering business from its smallest 
 stage, where some new cook with a bunch 
 of novelties can come and take the bread 
 out of the mouths of the old residents, to 
 the largest establishment, which is obliged 
 to change from china to silverware, from 
 silver to glass, from flowers in general to 
 flowers of one or two rare sorts, from banks 
 of moss and trailing vines on the table to 
 tall vases only, all because of the changes 
 of the fashions, and is bound to be on the 
 watch to import every new idea and be 
 ready to supply the newest favorite dish, as 
 otherwise the class of patrons who are able 
 to make high-class catering most profitable 
 to the caterer will send away and import 
 for themselves what they cannot procure 
 at home. Small catering businesses are 
 often offered for sale like any other busi- 
 ness, and a man well posted in the require- 
 ments, at such times may find his oppor- 
 tunity to step in and build up an important 
 and profitable trade where another had 
 been "poking along" or failed entirely. 
 
 LADY CATERERS. 
 
 Many ladies are engaged in catering for 
 private parties; they may be found in every 
 town and city. They usually carry on 
 some other small shop business or a ladies' 
 restaurant for down town shoppers ; and do 
 little or none of the work themselves, but 
 are acquainted with the people who give 
 parties and with the requirements of sev- 
 eral kinds of entertainments, and know all 
 the available hands for such employment, 
 the cooks, waiters, wagoners, house-clean- 
 ers, and where they can be found, also 
 where silver and other table ware can be 
 had for hire, and prove themselves friends 
 in need to many who find themselves 
 obliged to entertain, yet lack the experi- 
 ence necessary, and these caterers make a 
 good income solely by employing others. 
 The following, clipped from a society pa- 
 per, shows still another department for 
 ladies, much like the place occupied by the 
 
 steward of a hotel. This one indeed is the 
 manageress, as they are called in England, 
 for the time being. A man caterer called 
 in and given entire charge of a reception 
 or other party indeed does all that this lady 
 does, if it is required of him, sending the 
 proper hands to look after the silver, etc., 
 making out the menu and getting it printed 
 and ordering or furnishing everything for 
 a round sum ; still the lady fills a different 
 position in standing in place of the lady of 
 the house herself and being the employer 
 of the caterer and florist, perhaps, besides. 
 "A New York lady, who had made her 
 father's dinners famous by their elegance 
 and perfection, was left penniless. She 
 knew that many ladies refrain from dinner 
 giving because they feel unequal to the 
 ordeal, but are quite willing to pay any 
 one who can relieve them of the responsi- 
 bility and worry. An old friend of social 
 position to whom she unfolded her plan of 
 dinner superintendence agreed at once to 
 employ her, and influenced her wealthy 
 friends to try the novel plan. It worked 
 admirably, and she probably earns more 
 than any lady teacher in the city. Her 
 plan is to go to the dinner giver as soon as 
 the invitations are sent out, and discuss 
 the courses, etc. She knows just what is 
 in season, and does the marketing if the 
 lady wishes. She finds out what sum the 
 hostess is willing to expend for flowers, 
 menus, etc., rind buys them for her, taking 
 great pains to get novel and artistic de- 
 signs. The afternoon of the dinner she 
 sees that the table is properly laid, inspects 
 the polish of the silver and the lustre of 
 the glass, makes sure that the changes of 
 plates, etc., are ready on the sideboard, at- 
 tends to the finger-bowls, and arranges the 
 shades on the candles to secure that soft 
 radience that ladies find so becoming. She 
 foresees every probable emergency and 
 provides for all contingencies that may 
 arise." 
 
 MORE RULES FOR STEWARDS AND 
 CATERERS. 
 
 Scarcely ever two party affairs are ex- 
 actly alike and set patterns seldom fit the
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 127 
 
 case, but the individual comes in and exer- 
 cises his own skill and knowledge within 
 certain bounds of propriety and good taste. 
 Some rules have been laid down in a 
 former page, by which a man may take a 
 pencil and paper and approximate very 
 closely the amount of provisions which 
 will be necessary to prepare for any given 
 number of people, and how much it will 
 cost him can be determined by finding the 
 prices prevailing in his markets. Then 
 questions are raised of what is right and 
 proper, as, for example, " should a soup be 
 served at a wedding breakfast?" (which is 
 really an elaborate luncheon and not the 
 breakfast ordinarily understood) or " what 
 dishes should be served at such and such a 
 high-class entertainment?'' and so forth, 
 and as a guide in such matters likewise the 
 following rules are offered: 
 
 1. To determine whether this thing or 
 that is proper, examine the many menus of 
 all sorts of fashionable entertainments; 
 which are to be found abundant in these 
 pages and are printed for the very purpose 
 of reference. 
 
 2. To know what to give and what to 
 charge for a high-priced spread, look over 
 the large bills of fare with prices attached 
 of the high-class restaurants, likewise to be 
 found in these pages, select from among 
 their dishes and take the prices for a guide 
 what to charge, remembering possibly, if 
 the occassion requires concessions, that 
 those restaurant dishes are generally 
 enough for two persons, if not more. It 
 is claimed for the Hotel Richelieu of Chi- 
 cago that each dish served for an individual 
 order is sufficient for three or four. In 
 some establishments they never divide any 
 ordinary sized fish nothing except salmon 
 or halibut to cut into steaks the rule is to 
 buy fish of a suitable size, two or three 
 pounds each, and serve nothing but a 
 whole one to each customer. At high- 
 priced suppers generally the same rule 
 obtains, each one of the guests has a one- 
 pound or two-pound trout or pompano or 
 bass set before him to take what he 
 pleases from, and when that is removed a 
 
 whole broiled teal or large portion of any 
 other larger fowl, and so on through. 
 Cheaper dinners and suppers in courses 
 have divided portions in large dishes passed 
 along the table. 
 
 3. When deciding what viands to order 
 select the least common for the locality. 
 Grouse in Kansas has been so common 
 that the farmers' hands refused to be fed 
 upon it, demanding other meat; people in 
 the Rocky Mountain towns reject antelope 
 and think little of black-tail deer because 
 they have a surfeit of them, and still these 
 all are prime delicacies in New York. 
 Something far-fetched, unusual, novel 
 should be introduced when possible, but 
 with judgment not to exclude standard 
 favorites which will be expected as well. 
 
 4. To know what special sorts of food 
 to provide for entertainments given by 
 various nationalities or people from distant 
 sections, look over the menus of similar 
 feasts given in other places by competent 
 parties, generally by caterers of the same 
 nationality, which likewise may be found 
 in these pages, and refer besides to remarks 
 on such national cookery also discussed in 
 other pages under the proper letter. 
 
 5. To excel as a caterer, keep well 
 posted on what is going on by reading 
 fashion correspondents' letters in the pa- 
 pers, and the hotel and catering journals. 
 Most of the " new wrinkles " may be triv- 
 ial in the extreme, yet one never knows 
 which of them will "catch on" and turn 
 out to be a fashionable craze. Society 
 entertainments were supported during one 
 season at least almost entirely on " cheese 
 straws," and another season or two on 
 "salted almonds." The whole catering 
 world is a company of inventors constantly 
 seeking for some new thing, and he who 
 cannot invent for himself may learn from 
 those who can, if he cares to watch. 
 
 6. Look over the dictionary of dishes 
 and learn in how many various ways the 
 same edibles may be served, and find sug- 
 gestions and new wrinkles applicable to 
 every conceivable occasion.
 
 12S 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 A GUIDE TO PARTY CATERING. 
 
 ANNIVERSARY BALL SUPPER FOR 2OO. 
 
 The committee wanted it " fine " for $5 
 per couple including ball. One hundred 
 couples expected. It was a good-sized 
 town (called a city), with two or three 
 hotels, but without a regular caterer in 
 business. Committee applied to a hotel 
 chef, who undertook the supper for a fixed 
 sum for the labor only, the committee to 
 supply everything according to written 
 requisition. Committee secured the town 
 hall for dancing and a large vacant store 
 underneath for the supper room, with large 
 room at the back for kitchen, borrowed or 
 hired the various utensils found in a neigh- 
 boring restaurant, which was then closed 
 awaiting a purchaser, and borrowed 400 
 pieces of silver from a summer hotel, then 
 closed. Glasses, plates, etc., obtained from 
 local stores. Two long tables were set and 
 nearly everything was set upon them. 
 Chairs were obtained from various places, 
 principally from the hall or "opera house." 
 A bill of fare was printed, not for any use 
 to order from, everything but oysters and 
 ice cream being in sight on the tables, but 
 from motives of display. This was the 
 supper provided: 
 
 Celery. 
 
 Raw Oysters. 
 Pickles. Cold Slaw Olives. 
 
 Fried Oysters. 
 
 Stewed Oysters. 
 
 Cold Wild Turkev. Cold Roast Chicken. 
 
 Cranberry Jelly. 
 
 Chicken Salici. Shrimps, with I^ettuce. 
 Mayonaise of Lobster. Hollandaise Salad. 
 
 Truffled Galantine in Aspic. 
 Decorated Ham. Decorated Buffalo TongTies. 
 
 Newport Tartlets. Curacoa Bavarian. 
 
 L mon Butter Tartlets. 
 
 Wine and Fruit Jellies. 
 
 Meringue Cakes. Glazed Cream Puffs. 
 
 Chocolate Layer Cake. 
 Candies. Dehnonico Ice Cream. Lemonade. 
 
 Oranges. Apples. Nuts. Raisins. 
 Cheese. Crackers. French Coffee. 
 
 PROVISIONS AND MATERIALS USED. 
 
 Oysters (bulk) 10 gallons, of which 3 
 gallons were used raw, 3 gallons stewed, 4 
 gallons fried. 
 
 Turkeys, 80 pounds. 
 
 Chickens, 50 pounds. That was the 
 quantity actually used, though the com- 
 mittee became excited as preparations went 
 on and thought there would not be half 
 enough, therefore had more prepared 
 which was left over at last. Had and used 
 
 3 turkeys boned, stuffed with meat of 6 of 
 the chickens; 4 chickens (fowls) made 
 enough salad. Remainder, 5 turkeys and 
 
 4 chickens were sliced for cold roast, and 
 all eaten. 
 
 Ham, one, weighed n pounds, but little 
 used. 
 
 Smoked tongues, 4. Purported to be 
 buffalo tongues from Montana. Used 
 three sliced and decorated, other one in 
 galantine stuffing. 
 
 Truffles, one $1.50 can. All utilized for 
 outside decoration. 
 
 Shrimps, 12 cans, all used. 
 
 Lettuce, 2 dozen heads, all used. 
 
 Lobsters, 2 cans. Not much needed. 
 More for display of kinds in menu than for 
 real use. 
 
 Potatoes, for hollandaise salad, used 
 about 8 pounds. 
 
 Celery, 6 dozen heads, just right as or- 
 dered ; used best part in celery glasses on 
 table, remainder in salads. 
 
 Cabbage, 2 heads, about S pounds, used 
 most for slaw with oysters. 
 
 Beets, used about 3 pounds in decorating 
 salads. 
 
 Cracker-meal, for breading oysters, used 
 12 pounds. 
 
 Lard, for frying oysters and for short- 
 ening in biscuits and pastry, used 20 
 pounds oysters frying is most destructive 
 of lard, as it soon becomes too dark and 
 thick with cracker dust for further use. 
 
 Butter, used for all cooking purposes 
 (none on table), 10 pounds. 
 
 Flour, used 30 pounds. 
 
 Baking powder, used i pound. 
 
 Sugar, for all purposes, including lemo- 
 nade, used 30 pounds. 
 
 Milk, used for oyster stews and other 
 purposes, 12 gallons. 
 
 Cream, for coffee and other purpose*, 
 used 3 gallons.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 129 
 
 Chocolate, for cakes and puffs, } pound. 
 
 Currant jelly, for tartlets, I pound. 
 
 Gelatine, for wine jelly, orange jelly, etc., 
 and for aspic, used 10 packages or about i 
 pound. 
 
 Sherry, for jellies, I quart. 
 
 Curacoa, for Bavarian cream, very small 
 quantity, used i pint. 
 
 Extracts, used 4 ounces. 
 
 Eggs, 15 dozens actually ordered, needed 
 and used (but, as in case of turkeys, com- 
 mittee anticipating a greater crowd, caused 
 the using of 10 doz. more, product left 
 over and not counted herein). 
 
 Of the 14 items above was made and all 
 eaten: Cream Puffs, 150; Biscuits, 200; 
 Puff Paste Tartlets, 100; Ice Cream, 6 
 gallons ; Wine Jelly, 8 quarts ; Aspic Jelly, 
 for meat decoration, 2 quarts; cake, about 
 24 pounds, needed on table for show, but 
 half eaten, as all took puffs and pastries. 
 
 Besides these were used : 
 
 Bread, 5 loaves nearly all preferred the 
 beaten biscuits. 
 
 White Wax, for ornamental purposes, 
 $ i worth, together with some mutton fat. 
 
 Paper, 2 kinds, 2 quires. 
 
 Olive Oil, 2 quarts. 
 
 Olives, 2 bottles. 
 
 Lemons, all purposes, used 6 doz. 
 
 Pickles, 2 quarts. 
 
 Coal for range, used 500 pounds. 
 
 Salt, for freezing, etc., 25 pounds. 
 
 Ice, nominal, winter, plenty free. 
 
 Coffee, used 8 pounds Java ought to 
 have had 10 pounds great run on coffee 
 and nothing large enough to make it In. 
 
 It would not serve any useful purpose 
 to say what the supper above detailed cost. 
 The amounts and quantities will be found 
 trustworthy as a guide for similar occur- 
 ences ; the probable cost in any case can be 
 ascertained by reference to prices in the 
 local markets. The number at the tables, 
 known by the number of chairs, was quite 
 200 including the promoters of the affair, 
 committees and comphmentaries, but mu- 
 sicians and others at second table were so 
 many additional for which the same spread 
 was sufficient. 
 
 The waiters were paid by the committee ; 
 it being in a country town they found 
 waiters enough to volunteer for the occa- 
 sion for little or nothing; if paid, the 15 or 
 20 waiters and helpers would have cost 
 $10 to $15. The kitchen work required 
 assistants who were paid altogether $5.50, 
 the skilled labor together with time lost in 
 preliminary arrangements amounted to 5 
 days and the night of the supper, besides. 
 
 A YOUNG LADY'S BIRTHDAY RECEPTION 
 FOR 50. 
 
 Had 2 small turkey galantines ; one sliced 
 on plates, other decorated in a mould of 
 aspic on table and about half used. 
 
 Chicken salad of 4 chickens and i do*, 
 heads of celery and one quart of dressing, 
 all used. 
 
 Charlotte russe, had 50 individual size in 
 ornamental white paper cases ; cake portion 
 made with a 3-pound sponge cake mixture, 
 that is, with 3 pounds sugar, 2 doz. eggs 
 and 2^f flour; rilling with 3 quarts whipped 
 cream stiffened with i package gelatine, i 
 pound sugar. 
 
 Meringue shells rilled with jelly ; had 50 
 pairs, size of ducks' eggs, baked on boards, 
 scooped out, filled like saucers in pairs, 
 with 2 colors of jelly cut in cubes and 
 mixed had 3 quarts jelly, part maraschino, 
 remainder port wine. 
 
 White cakes and layer cakes decorated, 
 on table. 
 
 Bisque of preserved ginger ice cream; 
 had 8 quarts. 
 
 Lemonade. Biscuits. Candies. Ma- 
 laga Grapes. 
 
 Quantities about right; a little of each 
 left over, but not more than was wanted. 
 
 SNOW-BOUND DINNER. 
 
 Dinner for about 200 railroad passengers 
 snow-bound on a train in the far West; 
 dinner given free by the railroad company 
 at the next station reached. Made a west- 
 ern hotel dinner, but greater part ready set 
 on two long tables. i 
 
 Cooked and used: 
 
 Fresh meats, 100 pounds (raw weight). 
 
 Ham, 20 pounds.
 
 130 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 Chickens, 40 pounds. 
 
 Clams in baked chowder, 12 cant. 
 
 Oysters in soup, 20 cans. 
 
 Lobster in salad, 8 cans. 
 
 Potatoes, 75 pounds. 
 
 Pies, 48. 
 
 Tarts, various, 150. 
 
 Cake, 28 pounds. 
 
 Pudding, 4 quarts. 
 
 Charlotte russe, 12 quarts, in 15 moulds 
 on tables. 
 
 Jelly, 13 quarts, in 18 moulds on tables. 
 
 Bread, and various vegetables, not 
 counted. 
 
 Coffee, about 15 gallons. 
 
 CHURCH FESTIVAL. 
 
 "To be as cheap as possible," to raise 
 money to pay the pastor. Committee fur- 
 nished the raw material only ; the hotel- 
 keeper gave everything else, use of rooms, 
 fire, lights, cooking and incidental labor. 
 
 The raw material cost the church com- 
 mittee about $15. Prices were higher then 
 than now. Had about 100 persons to sup- 
 per, which was made up of: 
 
 Ham sandwiches, 7^ pounds, of which 
 5 pounds was ham, net trimmed, which is 
 equal to a 9-pound ham raw. 
 
 Pressed corned beef, sliced on dishes, 
 decorated, 4 pounds. 
 
 Yeast-raised short biscuits, ico. 
 
 Bread, 6 loaves, sliced. 
 
 Fancy small pastries, showy, cheap, too. 
 
 Cream puffs, 120. 
 
 Lemon jelly, 3 quarts. 
 
 Macaroons and kisses, made of 3 pounds 
 sugar, i pound almonds. 
 
 Cakes, about 9 pounds. 
 
 Coffee, used 4 pounds Java. 
 
 Tea, used 4 ounces. 
 
 Cream for coffee, 2 quarts. 
 
 There was no ice cream. 
 
 The cost of material was about 15 cents 
 per head. About 12 pounds butter was 
 used, some upon the table, rest in cakes, 
 etc., and 15 pounds sugar, and a gallon of 
 milk, some citron and lemons. 
 
 CLUB RECEPTION. 
 
 For 26 persons, both ladies and gentle- 
 men, the material cost about $60, of which 
 
 $20 was for terrapin. Flowers and florists 
 services about $40; catering about $40; and 
 with the hire of ten different sets and pat- 
 terns of china and other incidentals the 
 total cost to the giver of the party was 
 something over $200, without the wines, 
 or, making a round estimate to include 
 wine, say $10 per plate. The caterer was 
 instructed on various points and, among 
 others, not to give them a clear soup 
 " they were so tired of clear soups." 
 
 A table was handsomely set in the club 
 drawing-room for this special occasion, not 
 to disturb the regular daily arrangements 
 of the club; a florist being employed to de- 
 corate it with designs and bouquets and to 
 festoon the chandeliers. Several tall de- 
 corated dishes and ornamental cakes were 
 set on table amidst the green. 
 
 First. Passed around pony glasses of 
 whisky cocktail. 
 
 Second. Cream of cauliflower soup 
 cauliflower (fiom a distance) and soup cost 
 about $1.25. 
 
 Third. Deviled oysters in shell, cost 
 with garnishing about $2.50. 
 
 Fourth. Celery, imported, $2.50. 
 
 Fifth. Turkey stuffed with chestnuts, i 
 turkey $1.40, with vegetables, jelly and 
 trimmings whole cost $3.75. 
 
 Sixth. Brains saute"s in butter, with 
 vegetables, garnishing, etc., cost $4.35. 
 
 Seventh. Terrapin with wine and gar- 
 nishings, $21.40. 
 
 Eighth. Curacoa punch, $1.60. 
 
 Ninth. Roast quail, $4.30, bardes, chips, 
 endive salad, garnish, etc., whole cost, 
 $6.20. 
 
 Tenth. Ornamental pieces (galantine of 
 partridges flanked with larks in aspic), cost 
 of material, $5.10. 
 
 Eleventh. Harlequin ice cream and 
 moulded jellies in ornamental borders filled 
 with maraschino whipped cream, cost 
 $3.60. 
 
 Twelfth. Assorted fruit, $3 50. 
 
 Thirteenth. Coffee, cream, incidentals, 
 about 75 cents. 
 
 Wines, etc., from the club cellars.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 131 
 
 COLD LUNCH FOR 3OO. 
 
 Governor's Guard and other military 
 companies passing through. 
 Prepared and used: 
 
 1. Salted round of beef, bound around 
 with twine, boiled, pressed while cooling ; 
 raw weight 50 pounds, weight when cooked 
 37 pounds. All used. 
 
 2. Bread, 48 bakers' loaves. 
 
 3. Cold ham, 2 hams, raw weight 18 
 pounds; weight when cooked 12 pounds. 
 All used. 
 
 4. Ham sandwiches, 300; made of 2 
 hams, raw weight 25 pounds, net cooked 
 meat 18 pounds. 
 
 5. Salad of 10 fowls and 6 doz. heads 
 celery, some cabbage to mix in ; about 20 
 quarts of salad on 20 dishes. 
 
 6. Tarts, puff paste with apple jam ; 300 
 all used. 
 
 7. Butter on table, used 10 pounds. 
 
 8. Cake, on table, 20 pounds ; half left 
 over. 
 
 9. Ice cream, 6 gallons used. 
 
 10. Fruit on table, apples, oranges, not 
 counted. 
 
 n. Coffee, 15 gallons; not much left 
 over. 
 
 12. Sugar on table, used about 12 Ibs. 
 
 13. Milk for coffee, mustard, sauces, 
 etc., not counted. 
 
 Had 30 waiters. 
 
 PRIVATE RECEPTION. 
 
 For 70, in May, at a family residence ; 
 parlor and dining room connected by slid- 
 ing doors. Hostess provided material on 
 written requisition ; work done in the house. 
 Florist called in, decorated dining room 
 with a central design and festooned room 
 and chandelier. Had on table six deco- 
 rated dishes, of which two were cakes with 
 sugar work and baskets about 20 inches 
 high, set to flank the floral design in center; 
 two were decorated salads at opposite 
 corners of table ; one was a border mould 
 of jelly filled with whipped cream, the 
 other rings of meringue baked separately, 
 built up, decorated and inside filled with 
 stiffened cream and chopped jelly. More 
 
 of same kinds on dishes in the pantry 
 outside, together with: 
 
 i. Rolled sandwiches. 
 
 a. Shaved smoked tongue. 
 
 3. Cheese straws. 
 
 4. Shrimp salad. 
 
 5. Chicken salad. 
 
 6. Claret cup. 
 
 7. Assorted cakes. 
 
 8. Mammoth strawberries with pow 
 dered sugar. 
 
 9. Ice cups or bombes, of red raspberry 
 water ice frozen in 6 doz. tumblers and 
 filled with green pistachio ice cream. 
 
 10. Vienna coffee in small cups. 
 Guests, being over 70 in a private house, 
 
 sat around on sofas, chairs, settees, etc., 
 informally, and stood around the dining 
 room, and waiters carried plates from the 
 pantry with portions to them. After first 
 round gentlemen began and helped the 
 ladies from the show dishes on table. 
 Hostess made and served the coffee herself 
 from a swinging silver urn in the dining 
 room. 
 
 Expen ses without provision s : florist, $15; 
 music, 3 pieces, $7; caterer, $25; 5 waiters, 
 $5.50. Incidentals, extra 'hire, wagons, 
 carriages, etc., not counted. 
 
 CATERING EXPERIENCE OF AN ENGLISH 
 MANAGER. 
 
 "Many land owners give audit dinners 
 (or rent day dinners) in hotels, when the 
 tenant farmers come to pay their rent. 
 These dinners are sometimes very cheap, 
 still they are often attended by a large 
 number of guests, and it requires some 
 close calculation to render them profitable 
 as well as successful. Served: 
 
 DINNER FOR 6 AT 60 CENTS. (2S. 6D.) 
 
 Salmon and Parsley Sauce. 
 
 Roast Leg of Mutton. 
 
 Cauliflowers, Potatoes. 
 
 Rhubarb Tart. Custard Puddings. 
 
 Bread. Cheese. Butter. Salad. 
 Wines or beer extra. (.No coffee.) 
 
 DINNER FOR 30 AT 65 CENTS. (2S. pd.) 
 
 Spring Soup. 
 
 Turbot and Lobster Sauce. 
 Boiled Fowls. Bacon. 
 
 Roast Beef. Horseradish Sauce. 
 
 Two Vegetables. 
 
 Apple Tarts. Cream. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Cheese. Salad. 
 
 Wines or beer extra.
 
 182 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 DINNER FOR IO AT 6j CENTS. (2S. 9D.) 
 
 
 
 
 Mock Turtle and Clear Soups. 
 
 
 Serving-Table. 
 
 3 Ribs, 3 Sirloins Beef. 
 
 
 
 I Boiled Round of Beef. 
 
 
 Chairman. 
 
 a Roast, 3 Boiled Legs Mutton. 
 
 
 
 8 Veal and Ham Pies. 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 ^ j 
 
 
 <) <! 
 
 j 
 
 V> Cauliflowers. I Sack Potatoes. 
 16 Rhubarb Tarts. 16 Cabinet Puddings. 
 
 
 ~' 
 
 
 | 1. 
 
 
 1. e 
 
 I 
 
 150 Dinner Rolls. 
 
 
 H 
 
 r. 
 
 
 O 
 
 
 3 3 
 
 
 
 Bread, Butter, Cheese, and Biscuits. 
 
 
 
 
 
 g S 
 
 
 CA W 
 
 " 
 
 Wines or beer extra. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 LUNCH FOR $0 AT $I.2O. (JS.) 
 
 
 
 S 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 to 
 
 Clear and Ox-tail Soups. 
 
 
 '. 
 
 3 
 
 o 
 
 2 1 
 
 I 
 o 
 
 . 
 
 s ^ 
 
 o 
 
 COLD. 
 
 
 8 
 
 X 
 
 !? <? 
 
 x 
 
 ? 1 
 
 ^ * 
 
 a Fore Quarters Lamb. I Sirloin Beef. 
 
 
 
 S 
 
 
 
 S 
 
 * 
 
 5 "* 
 
 3 Veal and Ham Pies. 2 Tongues. 
 
 
 
 to 
 
 
 fa 
 
 
 u. 
 
 8 Roast Fowls. i Ham. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 a Mavonnaise Salmon. 4 Lobster Salads. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 4 Jellies. 4 Creams. 4 Fancy Pasties. 
 
 
 *; 
 
 
 $5 ^ 
 
 
 -; g 
 
 ^ 
 
 Wines, etc., extra. 
 
 
 g 
 
 
 2 s S 5 
 
 
 - p 
 
 J 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 ! f 
 
 
 f f 
 
 8 
 
 
 LUNCH FOR 275 AT 75 CEN'TS. (38.) 
 
 
 
 
 
 CQ 00 
 
 
 GO W 
 
 P 
 
 90 Quarts Clear Soup. 
 
 
 
 COLD. 
 
 4 Large Joints Roast Beef. 
 
 
 Serving-Table. 
 
 4 Roast Legs Mutton. 
 
 48 Fowls. 
 
 2 Large Hams. 
 
 a Galantines of Veal. 
 
 2 Pieces Pressed Beef. 
 
 8 Steak Pies. 
 
 8 Veal and Ham Pies. 
 
 18 Jellies. 18 Creams. 
 
 18 St. Clair Puddings. 
 18 Rhubarb Tarts in deep soup plates. 
 
 18 Mince Pies in deep soup plates. 
 
 a$o Rolls. Cut Bread, Butter, Cheese, etc. 
 
 ij Sack Potatoes. 75 Cauliflowers. 
 
 Wines or beer extra. 
 
 "The autumn bills of fare can be served 
 at the same rate; but substituting thick 
 soups for clear, giving such fish as may be 
 in season, and adding roast pork to the 
 menu. 
 
 "To avoid confusion (if possible) I allot 
 two rooms, one for the landlord, or his 
 agent, to use as an office where each tenant 
 pays his rent. The tenants wait in the 
 smoking, billiard, or other public rooms; 
 and, if they number only twenty or thirty, 
 I have their dinner spread in the ladies' 
 coffee-room, made private for the time 
 being. But in cases where there are over 
 a hundred I manage this way. 
 
 "We will take No. 3 dinner served as 
 follows; I had three long tables (seating 
 fifty persons at each) down the room, and 
 a serving table top and bottom. 
 
 As the price was so low, I could not afford 
 to hire special waiters, so placed my ov/n, 
 one on either side of each table, giving him 
 two girls, housemaids or otherwise, one on 
 each hand, thus allowing one waitress to 
 every eight guests, and one waiter to nine 
 ditto. Ten minutes before dinner time I 
 marshalled them in their places, indicating 
 how far down the table each was to look 
 after the comfort of the visitors, and strictly 
 enjoining that no one should run about or 
 wait on any fart of the table other than that 
 allotted to him or her. Each waiter was 
 instructed to keep a sharp look out all 
 down his side of the table to see that the 
 two waitresses were serving correctly, their 
 experience not being equal to his. 
 
 "Having settled the question of atten- 
 dance, I had the porters ready to bring up 
 at a moment's notice the soup, joints, and 
 vegetables all boiling hot from the kitchen. 
 Four servers took their position at the top 
 serving-table, another four going to the 
 bottom. Directly the guests entered, the 
 porters brought up the soup in the stock 
 pots (covered round with coarse white 
 cloths). There was no need for hot soup 
 plates, as the liquor was actually boiling on 
 the serving tables. The eight servers soon
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 133 
 
 supplied the eighteen attendants, who as 
 quickly served the guests; and as they 
 collected the dirty soup plates, the servers 
 were carving the joints and pies, two of 
 their number transferring the vegetables 
 direct from the steamers into dishes to 
 hand round as required. This arrange- 
 ment ensuring, as it did, fresh and hot 
 vegetables was much appreciated by the 
 guests. I personally assured myself, by 
 walking round the tables, that every guest 
 was served, and properly served. Two 
 young lads were deputed to go round with 
 bread after the rolls were consumed, so 
 that no one "waited for that very necessary 
 article, as is so often the case at large din- 
 ners. 
 
 "At the proper time the sweets were sent 
 round, and such was the celerity of serving 
 that the 150 diners were satisfied; every- 
 thing (not wanted on the table) removed ; 
 and the chairman rose to make his speech 
 within the hour from the time of first sitting 
 down. The porters had been taking away 
 the dirty plates, etc., during the dinner, so 
 that when I withdrew from the room with 
 the waiters and waitresses, having only 
 been there forty-five minutes, I had noth- 
 ing to do beyond dividing such sweets as 
 were left amongst the girls, who had come 
 from their ordinary occupations and as- 
 sisted so willingly. I may here add I find 
 a little thoughtful kindness like this makes 
 them ready volunteers for any great pres- 
 sure. As soon as the guests departed, I 
 took the staff into the room again, and 
 each one looked up and secured the vari- 
 ous things belonging to their different 
 departments, thus avoiding loss or con- 
 fusion. Three hours after the dinner 
 everything was in proper order again, and 
 the usual business of the hotel was never 
 at any time interfered with. 
 
 "The above hints will assist the experi- 
 enced to serve dinners of any size, and the 
 same rules may be carried out with regard 
 to large cold luncheons. I have served 
 the latter for 700 persons in less than one 
 hour, with only fifteen waiters and thirty 
 girl-helpers. In the case of the No. 5 
 
 lunch, the fowls -were carved and dislied, 
 and ham, pressed beef, galantines of veal, 
 etc., sliced and served up on salad, and 
 placed each side of the fowls. All these 
 make very pretty dishes, if nicely orna- 
 mented with colored kale, parsley, or 
 flowers. No one, unless they try the plan, 
 can conceive what a saving is effected by 
 this mode of serving; for what would be 
 only one joint can be made into a dozen 
 dishes, and each person can help himself 
 to a neatly carved slice, whereas few can 
 carve under such circumstances, and much 
 fewer care to be troubled to do so for 
 strangers. 
 
 BASE BALL OR CRICKET LUNCH FOR $O AT 60 CTS. 
 
 Boiled Round of Beef, about 20 Ibs. 
 Roast Sirloir (with horseradish), about 20 Ibs. 
 
 2 Beefsteak Pies, 2 Veal and Ham Pies. 
 
 S each Rhubarb and Gooseberry tarts. 8 Custards. 
 
 Salad, Bread, Butter, Cheese, New Potatoes 
 
 and Ice. 
 
 BASE BALL LUNCH FOR JS AT 8$ CTS. (38. 6D.) 
 
 20 Ibs. Pickled Salmon and Sliced Cucumber. 
 
 18 Roast Fowls. I Ham. 
 Fore and Hind Quarter Lamb. 
 
 Boiled Round Beef. 
 Roast Sirloin, horseradish. 
 12 Fruit Tarts. 12 Velvet Creams. 12 Jellies. 
 Plenty of Salad, Bread, Butter, Cheese, New Pota- 
 toes, and Ice. 
 
 BASE BALL LUNCH FOR IOO AT ONE DOLLAR. 
 
 Mayonnaise of Salmon, 30 Ibs. 
 Pressed Beef. 4 Pigeon Pies. 
 
 Roast Sirloin Beef, horseradish. 
 
 18 Roast Fowls. 4 Tongues. i Ham. 
 
 12 Swiss Pastry. 8 Assorted ditto. 4 Fruit Tarts. 
 
 18 Dishes Stewed Fruits. 6 Devonshire Cream. 
 
 Plenty of Salad, Bread, Butter, New Potatoes, 
 
 Peas, and Ice. 
 
 BASE BALL OR CRICKET LUNCH FOR So 
 AT $1.20. (SS.) 
 
 20 Ibs. Mayonnaise of Salmon. 6 Lobster Salads. 
 
 1 Forced Turkey. 2 Targets of Lamb. 
 
 4 Pates de Foie Gras in Aspic. 4 Raised Pies. 
 
 12 Roast Fowls, i York Ham. 3 Tongues. 
 
 i Roast Sirloin Beef. 8 Boiled Fowls "Bechamel." 
 
 6 Dishes Compotes Fruit. 2 Genoise Pastry. 
 
 2 Dishes Baba Cakes. 2 Small Pastry. 
 
 6 Dishes Fruit Tarts. 6 Custards. 
 
 6 Dishes Stewed P'ruit. 6 Devonshire Cream. 
 
 Plenty Salad, Bread, Butter, Cheese, New Potatoes, 
 
 Green Peas, and Ice. 
 
 "The foregoing were all supplied on the 
 field, in a tent erected for that purpose. 
 We did not provide the tent nor seats, but 
 sent everything else, such as plate, glass 
 cutlery, linen, kettles, saucepans, washing- 
 up tins and cloths. We had a small Amer- 
 ican stove on the outside of the tent, and 
 cooked the new potatoes and green peas
 
 134 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 when required everything else was sent 
 ready prepared from the hotel; but we 
 dished and decorated the luncheon after 
 Its arrival, so that it looked perfectly fresh. 
 Everything that would admit of it was 
 carved beforehand and dished, so that 
 guests could help themselves ; the waiters 
 cutting the heavy joints as required, pass- 
 ing round the vegetables, bread, etc., as 
 wanted, and attending to the orders for 
 wines, which were under the special charge 
 of the headwaiter. Every bottle of wine, 
 spirits, beer, or mineral water was booked 
 to him, and after the luncheon he was re- 
 quired to return either the stock in full or 
 its value in money. We made a sort of 
 bar-counter at the end of the tent so as to 
 avoid all delay in serving. I may here 
 add that this temporary bar did duty all 
 day for whatever drinks were required. 
 (Mem.: It is necessary to obtain a special 
 license from the magistrates to enable any 
 one to sell excisable articles at or in any 
 other place than their own properly licensed 
 premises; but you may pack any quantity 
 from the hotel in a luncheon-basket with- 
 out the special license, provided it is or- 
 dered and paid for in the hotel, and not 
 retailed or sold afterwards.) When serving 
 out-door luncheons, etc., be sure to be well 
 supplied with bread, salt, etc., etc., cork- 
 screws, champagne-nippers, ice, ice-ham- 
 mers, needles, washing-up tins and cloths. 
 I have known most excellent repasts al- 
 most spoiled by the omission of one or 
 more of these very necessary articles. Also 
 be careful to have a plentiful supply of 
 good water carried up to the field, if there 
 is not a well very near. 
 
 " I have always had the viands taken up 
 in locked-up boxes, keeping the jellies, 
 creams, etc., in their moulds till really 
 needed to place on the table. The chef has 
 gone up to the cricket field and turned out 
 the sweets at the given time, as we easily 
 procured hot water from the American 
 stove for dipping the jelly and cream 
 moulds into. At the same time he also 
 carved and dished up the fowls, so they did 
 not become dry from standing long ex- 
 
 posed. Flowers, parsley, and other gar- 
 nishes should be put on the different viands 
 the last thing, as they so soon lose their 
 freshness. 
 
 "The above bills of fare are only intended 
 as examples when the luncheons are given 
 outside the house and at moderate prices. 
 I have always found that simple, but sub- 
 stantial, dishes are much preferred by the 
 hungry cricketers to what Shakespeare 
 calls "pretty, tiny little kickshaws." 
 Should, however, the match-ground be 
 near enough for the players to come to the 
 hotel, a much more varied repast can be 
 given for the same price, as the labor and 
 loss of serving in the house is nil when 
 compared with the trouble and expense of 
 catering at a distance. I have had many 
 cricket-luncheons served in the hotel when 
 to the quoted bills of fare have been added 
 clear soup if the club wished or some 
 nice little entree, such as mutton cutlets 
 and fresh tomatoes, fillets of beef and mush- 
 rooms, lamb chops and asparagus, hot 
 crabs or lobsters and cucumbers. This 
 last dish, by the way, was always so much 
 liked that we never could quite satisfy the 
 many who wanted a second helping. 
 
 " It will be well to mention here that I 
 have found it more satisfactory to supply 
 one good entr&e, but plenty of it, than a little 
 of two or three kinds ; for it is a curious 
 fact nearly all want the same, and it is 
 mortifying after an entr&e has served about 
 a dozen to find twenty other guests asking 
 for that particular dish, and obliged to go 
 without, whereas there may be a couple of 
 entries scarcely touched at all. 
 
 "I remember on one occasion serving 
 fifty splendid hot crabs and cutting up 
 twenty large cucumbers (in vinegar with 
 pepper and salt, the same as would be 
 served with salmon), and not an atom of 
 either was left; whereas a dish of beef ris- 
 soles was untouched, and only one eaten 
 from the chicken and ham patties. 
 
 " Do not forget to have plenty of ice on 
 the tables, whether the refreshments be 
 served in the house or on the field ; nor yet 
 when luncheon baskets are packed for
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 135 
 
 races or picnics. Much the same fare will 
 do on any or all occasions; only when 
 packing for races I have always had the 
 fowls carved and tied together with white 
 ribbon ; salad nicely washed and placed in 
 tin cases; salad-dressing and mint sauce 
 made and bottled ; butter, cheese, etc., etc., 
 put into earthenware pots, with a plentiful 
 supply of bread, salt, pepper, mustard, etc., 
 not forgetting the corkscrews, nippers, ice, 
 
 ice-needles and hammer; also napkins, 
 crockery, cutlery, glass, spoons, forks, and 
 requisites for washing-up purposes. 
 
 "NOTE. Unless the committee finds 
 the tents, seats, etc., an extra charge must 
 be added for these in accordance with the 
 hire-payment made by the hotel-keeper." 
 From the London Caterer and Hotel 
 Proprietor's Gazette. 
 
 .A. IR-IEOIEIE'TIOlsr. 
 COMPLIMENTARY TO A LADY AT A MEMPHIS HOTEL. 
 
 E N 
 
 BOUILLON. 
 "From the hand to the mouth the soup is often lost." Trans, fr. Fr. 
 
 CELERY. 
 
 FRIED OYSTERS. 
 
 "An oyster may be crossed in love." Sheridan. 
 
 PETITS BOUCHEES, AUX SALPICON. 
 
 " Such dainties to men, their health it might hurt, 
 
 It's like sending- them ruffles when wanting a shirt." Goldsmith. 
 
 DEVILED CRABS, IN SHELLS. 
 " He must have a long spoon that must eat with the Devil." Comedy of Errors. 
 
 COLD ROAST TURKEY. OX TONGUE. 
 
 " There's cold meat in the cave, I browse on ftaA.."Cymbeline. 
 
 CANETON DESOSSE. GALANTINE DE VOLAILLE. 
 
 CAP. What's there? 1ST SERV. Things for the cook, sir; I know not what. Romeo and Juliet. 
 
 PAIN DE GIBIER, AUX TRUFFES. 
 1 "Ay! That way goes the game." Tempest. 
 
 MAYONNAISE OF SHRIMPS. 
 " This sort were well fished for." 
 
 CHARLOTTE RUSSE. VANILLA ICE CREAM. 
 
 'These trifles will lead to serious mischief." "You are the vanilla of society." 
 
 Horace. Sydney Smith. 
 
 ASSORTED CAKES. 
 " Would'st thou both eat thy cake and have '^"Herbert. 
 
 MALAGA GRAPES. 
 Meaning thereby that grapes were made to eat and lips to open." As you like it. 
 
 COFFEE. 
 "The cups that cheer, but do not inebriate." Coivper, 
 
 "Night wears away, and morn is near, the stars are high, two-thirds of night are past; 
 The greater part, and scarce a third remains." Bryant. 
 
 "On with the dance! let joy be unconfin'd; no sleep till morn, when youth and pleasure meet." Byron. 
 JANUAKY 13, 1888.
 
 FANTASIES OF PARTY GIVERS. 
 
 It has been remarked already, the whole 
 world of party givers are constantly strain- 
 ing after something new, or, if not a fresh 
 invention, something new to their own 
 circle, and by way of showing what devices 
 are hit upon, we will give specimens 
 gathered from various sources. And, first, 
 the series of dinners of one prevailing 
 color. 
 
 A PINK DINNER IN WASHINGTON. 
 
 " In the dining i oom the idea of a pink 
 dinner had been carried out in every 
 detail, even to the pink globes on the large 
 chandelier. The centrepiece of the table 
 was composed of an elongated square of 
 ferns, the four corners formed of great 
 clusters of odorous carnations, while from 
 the middle rose long-stemmed and La 
 France and American beauty roses. At 
 each of the four corners were fairy lamps 
 under pink shades. The silver candelabra 
 were filled with candles under shades of 
 the same color. The menu was printed 
 on a broad piece of pink satin ribbon, 
 fringed at either end, and bearing on the 
 left-hand corner at the top the name of the 
 guest for whom it was intended. The 
 rolls at each plate, cheese sticks and wafers, 
 were tied up in small bundles with a tiny 
 pink ribbon, while the icing of the small 
 cakes, confections, and ice cream were all 
 of the same color. The individual salt 
 cellars and punch glasses were also pink. 
 A boutonniere of carnation, or pink rose 
 bud, lay at each plate. On the mantels 
 were large vases of white chrysanthe- 
 mums." 
 
 A YELLOW DINNER IN BOSTON. 
 
 " In dinner-party arrangements a pretty 
 custom is rapidly gaining ground; this is 
 to make one color in varied shades rule 
 the roast, and to have one flower the pre- 
 siding genius of the feast. Take the yel- 
 low, for instance. Golden-hued chrysan- 
 themums would be the most appropriate 
 
 bloom to harmonize with this color in the 
 shades of the large lamps on the side tables 
 and sideboard, and the delicate fairy lamps 
 marshalled on the dinner table. Careless 
 posies of the same flower are suspended 
 over the heads of the diners, and separate 
 sprays lie carelessly at their sides, and 
 grouped together, decorate the center of 
 the table. All the service used at the meal 
 must be in harmony, and in some instances 
 the very cloth covering the table is of pale 
 canary satin. At one dinner of eight a 
 well-known entertainer carried out the 
 golden lead in the viands themselves the 
 soup was golden, so also were the fish and 
 its sauce, entrees, sweets, and dessert all 
 following suit." 
 
 A WHITE DINNER IN LONDON. 
 
 " During lent dinners au blanc, or white 
 dinners, are fashionable. In many houses 
 the fair, white damask tablecloths replace 
 the covers of colored velvet, satin, plush, 
 or sateens with their exquisite surdoths of 
 laces, or, if colors are used, it is the soft 
 violet shade, so beloved by the adherents 
 to the third empire in France and the high 
 church party in England. This is the 
 menu of a white dinner recently given. 
 MENU BLANC. 
 
 Hors <f(Euvre. 
 Hultres en Coquille. 
 
 Soups. 
 Potage au riz. Puree de Morue. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Brochet au Citron. Alose a la Matrons. 
 
 Releves. 
 Poulette au blanc. Filet de Veau a la Pere Francois. 
 
 Entrees. 
 
 CEufs Farcies. Rissoles de Boeuf. Filets de 
 Canards aux Navets. 
 
 Roti. 
 Agneau. Carr de Pore Roti. 
 
 Entremets. * 
 Creme de Noyau. Pannier de Roseblanc. 
 
 Frangepane de Moelle. 
 Canapees de Fromage a la Diable. 
 
 Glaces. 
 
 Citron. Cerises Blanc. 
 Dessert. 
 
 (136)
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 137 
 
 A VIOLET SUPPER. 
 
 "A ' Cinderalla' supper, recently served 
 in Paris, was rendered quite charming by 
 the free introduction of the modest flower 
 which 'opens with the earliest breath of 
 spring.' All the ladies wore violets in 
 abundance on their white dresses, and each 
 gentleman wore a button-hole of the poet- 
 lauded flower. Supper was served at little 
 tables the parties carrees, or sets of four, 
 being quite usual in Paris now. Each 
 table was, instead of being covered with a 
 cloth, strewed with a bed of fragrant pale- 
 tinted violets." 
 
 A DINNER IN SCARLET AND BLACK. 
 
 l> O.ie of the dinner-table decorations for 
 this season is Mephistophelian, out of 
 compliment, doubtless, to the great Lypeum 
 success. It is done entirely in flame-color 
 flowers with black foliage, and is beautifully 
 diabolic. The candle shades are also flame- 
 color, and the menu the same." 
 
 A PINK ROSE DINNER. 
 
 " One of the notions in table decoration is 
 a pink satin tablecloth of the very palest 
 tone. Only eight inches of this is, how- 
 ever, visible, merely enough to allow room 
 for the plates. All the rest of the table is 
 hidden by grey gypsophila. In this is 
 intermixed all tones of pink roses from the 
 lightest to the deepest shade. In front of 
 each guest is a slender glass vase with a 
 rose. Those who have never tried the 
 grassy gypsophila for decorating tables are 
 recommended to do so, for it is both beau- 
 tiful and durable." 
 
 A WHITE LILY DINNER. 
 
 "The floral decorations at fashionable 
 tables this season have been largely con- 
 fined to one color. At a dinner given 
 recently at the Russian Embassy a charm- 
 ing effect was obtained with one single 
 kind of flower the white lily. Every 
 variety of this exquisite bloom was used, 
 however, but beyond their own green 
 leaves and creamy buds and a lovely 
 bronze foliage, judiciously blended, there 
 
 was no mixture whatever, and a more per- 
 fect result could not possibly be imagined." 
 
 A MERMAID DINNER. 
 
 " A fish dinner has lately been the fash- 
 ionable novelty in New York. Not only 
 was the menu unique, but so also was the 
 costume of one of the belles who graced 
 the occasion. The private dining-room 
 was turned into a bower of bright green, 
 with seaweeds in profusion and quaint 
 embellishments of shells, while borrowed 
 pictures of pisciculture and water com- 
 pleted the aquatic decoration. However, 
 it was in one of the elaborate toilets that a 
 clever conceit was most remarkably car- 
 ried out. The wearer was a pretty girl, 
 and belonged to a distinguished family. 
 Her hair was loosened and embellished 
 with sea-grass, a necklace and bracelets 
 were pearls and coral ; the sleeveless and 
 low-cut corsage was delicate pink satin, 
 shading off into the green of draperies 
 fashioned in artistic imitation of a mer- 
 maid's lower half. The scaliness of a fish 
 was imitated by means of bead-work, the 
 skirt was narrow, and a short train was 
 shaped like the tail of a fish." 
 
 CROWNS, STARS AND DIAMONDS. 
 
 "The floral decorations at fashionable 
 dinner-parties are often arranged on a 
 novel plan. At a recent Belgravian dinner 
 a crown was made the central feature of 
 the table. The cloth was left white, and 
 in the center was a white satin cushion, 
 upon which was placed a crown of the 
 most vivid crimson flowers, and from it 
 long trails of crimson flowers reached to 
 the four corners of the table; a few small 
 dishes of flowers at the head and foot of 
 the table completed it. But dishes or 
 vases are very little used now the flowers 
 are arranged on the cloth. The star shape 
 is a most effective form of placing them, 
 and is most beautiful when a cunning hand 
 has led the color by gradations, from a 
 vivid center to a pale shade at the points, 
 where the tapering ray should end in a 
 single leaf.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 139 
 
 THE PLATEAU. 
 
 The engraving on the preceding page 
 makes it easy to explain what is meant by 
 Ihe very old and most enduring fashion of 
 the plateau or central ornament of the din- 
 ner table. The table shown has no plateau 
 strictly so called, but it has something in 
 the place of it a bank of moss and flowers. 
 The plateau is, very often, a mirror laid 
 flat on the table to represent a lake, and 
 there must be that is to say, there used to 
 be a rock castle or chateau, or monastery 
 or temple, or something of the sort, in the 
 center, with boats, swans, etc., around, and 
 the edges of the mirror covered in any 
 fanciful way to represent the shores of the 
 sheet of water. This form is by no means 
 abandoned. Sometimes now the fashion 
 takes the shape of real water, with a foun- 
 tain playing and live fish. Only so re- 
 cently as President Cleveland's inaugura- 
 tion dinner to be found mentioned further 
 on there was a large mirror laid flat upon 
 the table, with at each end a ship built of 
 flowers, and a sea-piece of the cook's make 
 was set afloat on the mirror. Another 
 thing to be noted is the large number of 
 glasses at each plate. For several years 
 now perhaps eight or ten it has been the 
 fashionable rule to place a different glass 
 for every kind of wine all on the table at 
 once before the dinner began, as seen in 
 the picture. As indicating a change of 
 this fashion there comes to hand, while 
 this book is in preparation for the press, a 
 letter from the premier of all catering cor- 
 respondents, the Paris correspondent of 
 of the London Caterer, in which he re- 
 marks of "a dinner at the house of one of 
 the richest financiers in France, and the 
 dinner was worthy of the host: 
 
 "This dinner was served throughout on 
 crockery representing the best old Rouen 
 period. The glasses to each cover were 
 numerous, though it is novj the fashion in 
 Paris to put one glass to each cover, and to 
 Change the glass at each fresh service of 
 wine. It is also fashionable to change the 
 set of plates with each course, that is to say, 
 to have a plate of a different pattern of 
 
 porcelain for each new dish. The decora- 
 tion consisted of a large epergne full of 
 flowers, dishes of fruit, dessert, etc. 
 
 Potage Crfime Princes&e. 
 
 Rissoles k la Pompadour. 
 
 Turbans de Soles a la Cardinal. 
 
 Filet de Bojuf a la Godard. 
 
 Poularde a 1'Ivoire. 
 
 Quartier de Chevreuil, Sauce Poivrade. 
 Croustade de Koie Gras Charvin. 
 
 Salade a la Russe. 
 
 Petits Pois a i'Anglaise. 
 
 Gateau k 1'Officier de i'Acad&flie. 
 
 Glace Revenez-y. 
 
 Desserts. 
 
 "The filet de boeuf a la Godard was an 
 English sirloin served with trimmings of 
 truffles boiled in cognac, mushrooms and 
 cockscombs. The poularde a 1'ivoire ap- 
 parently owed its name to the beautiful 
 whiteness and firmness of the fowl's flesh. 
 The quartier de chevreuil, which was most 
 delicious, was served with red currant jelly, 
 a very great improvement, suggested to 
 her, as my amiable hostess said, by the 
 English fashion. The croustade de foie 
 gras was a large timbale of most delicious 
 crust. The gateau a 1'officier de I'acade'mie 
 was a sponge-cake decorated with cream. 
 Its name was a topical allusion to the re- 
 cent decoration of one of the guests, the 
 most popular actor at the Come'die Fran- 
 gaise. As for the glace revenez-y (or come- 
 back-to-the-ice), it was a tutti-frutti bomb 
 of particular excellence. 
 
 "The wines served at this dinner wer; 
 claret, champagne of two kinds, hock, and, 
 with the foie gras, some most delicious 
 Romance Conti. This was served cold, 
 after the fashion in Burgundy, and being 
 cold made an excellent substitute for the 
 mid-prandial sorbet, or iced punch, which, 
 as will be seen, was wanting in the above 
 menu. As a rule I prefer all burgundies at 
 normal temperature. I found the Romance 
 Conti, however, on this occasion perfect, 
 though cold. The above menu was written 
 on rough-edged paper, with crossed spoons 
 in the left-hand corner, the guest's name 
 being written obliquely in the right-hand 
 corner. Gaudy menus are out of fashion 
 in Paris just now, and I am glad of the 
 change."
 
 140 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 " At a dinner lately given by Mrs. 
 Mackay (wife of the American 'Silver 
 King ') the flowers were arranged in this 
 star-shape, the center a heart of flame, and 
 the rays shading to the palest tint as they 
 tapered off. The places for the guests are 
 laid just in between these rays; and the 
 effect, as may be imagined, is exceedingly 
 good." 
 
 A FIGURATIVE DINNER. 
 
 " Moore used to speak of a dinner party 
 at Prince Esterhazy's, where he had the 
 honor to 'assist.' All the meats were 
 represented in carved wood, beautifully 
 painted. The guest pointed to the dish he 
 wished for, and servants brought it to him 
 in its real shape." 
 
 A VARI-COLORED DINNER IN BUFFALO. 
 
 While the following in the first place is 
 only amusing it really contains a service- 
 able hint to those who have artistic pieces 
 to display : 
 
 "A gentleman who was invited out to 
 dine at a Delaware residence lately ob- 
 served that the chandelier over the dining- 
 room table was of peculiar construction so 
 that there was a light over the head of 
 each guest. The globes were of various 
 colors, some amber, some red, and some 
 blue. ' What is the object of having the 
 globes of different colors ? ' the guest asked 
 of the hostess. 'Why, you see,' said she, 
 'when one gives a dinner or tea one must 
 invite some people whom one hates. Now, 
 last Tuesday I gave a supper and had to 
 invite two women whom I despise. But I 
 had to invite them or some of the young 
 men I wanted would'nt come. I had my 
 revenge on my fair enemies, however. I 
 placed each of these two women under one 
 of those pale blue lights at table. They're 
 usually considered beautiful women, but 
 under that light they had the most ghastly 
 look you ever saw. They were perfect 
 scarecrows. They seemed to have aged 
 twenty years the minute that they sat 
 down. The men noticed it, of course, but 
 they did not divine what caused it. They 
 
 were quite taken aback and awfully glum 
 at first. But finally one of them turned 
 with a sigh and began talking with a real 
 lovely, homely little thing that was kitting 
 under a ruby-colored light. Why, she 
 was perfectly charming under it. So you 
 see that when I want people to look per- 
 fectly hideous I put them under the blue 
 lights. It kills everything.' The gentle- 
 man looked up. He was under a blue 
 light." 
 
 A TROPICAL DINNER IN NEW YORK. 
 
 "Just before Lent a tropical dinner was 
 given here by a wealthy man. The floral 
 decorations were all tropical plants. Fo 
 the ferns, palms, ivy, mandarin trees 
 Florida and Central and South America 
 were ransacked. The truffles were brought 
 from France and a bouquet of ten straw- 
 berries was placed before each guest. 
 These cost ten dollars a bunch. The table 
 was arranged around a miniature lake, in 
 which palms, lillies and ferns appeared to 
 be growing, while tropical trees rose from 
 the banks amid miniature parterres of 
 flowers. Small electric lights, with vari- 
 colored globes, were arranged about the 
 lake, and by an unique arrangement elec- 
 tricity was introduced under the water of 
 the lake and caused to dance about in imi- 
 tation of vari-colored fish. Twenty courses 
 were served. There was no cloth on the 
 table. A beautiful palm-leaf fan was placed 
 on the table before each guest, and on these 
 the plates rested. The individual decora- 
 tions on each plate cost $30, while the 
 favors cost as much more, and the menus 
 $10 each. Roman punch was served in 
 oranges hanging on the natural trees, the 
 pulp of the fruit having been deftly re- 
 moved so that the favored guests could 
 pick their own fruit. The dinner cost $175 
 per cover. The wine and music were 
 extra." 
 
 FISH DINNERS IN PARIS. 
 
 "The Paris 'fish dinners' for Wednes- 
 days and Fridays are especially studied by 
 hostesses to impress their visitors with the
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 141 
 
 cleverness of their cook, who can serve up 
 a most varied banquet without hurting the 
 most tender devotee's conscience by heret- 
 ical meats. There is even a churchly touch 
 in the menu, which represents a tiny illu- 
 minated missal. Flowers are banished 
 from the table, but foliage of all kinds and 
 tints is equally pretty and more novel for 
 decoration. At dessert the fruits are no 
 longer put on dishes, but served up as if 
 hanging on their own trees, grapes, apples, 
 and oranges being deftly fastened on small 
 shrubs, and the pots being hidden by gold- 
 embroidered plush coverings." 
 
 FRENCH DINNER TABLE DECORATIONS. 
 
 "From information supplied by a Parisian 
 caterer it appears that there are at present 
 four fashionable styles of dinner-table de- 
 corations in vogue in the Gay City. These 
 are known respectively as the ' Diner Par- 
 terre,' the Diner ForetVierge,' the 'Diner 
 Virtuine,' and the 'Diner Reposoir.' In 
 the first the table is ornamented with little 
 flat silver saucers filled with green moss, in 
 the centre of which is a glass tulip-lamp. 
 In the second the decorations consist of 
 numerous old Dresden china statuettes and 
 similar articles de vertu in porcelain: 
 Cupids, Venuses, Watteau lords and ladies, 
 set here and there singly or in groups or 
 half hidden in clusters of flowers. The 
 object of the Diner Reposoir is to remind 
 one of the simple decoration of the village 
 church on the occasion of the great Catho- 
 lic festival of the Fete-Dieu. A garland, 
 thick in foliage and composed of roses, 
 violets and ivy, goes round the table. In 
 the centre a large basket containing the 
 same flowers is placed. In the Diner 
 Foret Vierge the decoration consists of a 
 number of silver baskets fashioned in the 
 shape of the bales or hampers in which 
 coffee is shipped from the plantations. 
 These baskets are filled with bunches of 
 orchids tied together with knots of bril- 
 liantly colored and variegated ribbons." 
 
 IMITATING LUCULLUS. 
 
 "The fashionable dinner parties in Paris 
 have taken up a new craze to have all 
 
 their principal viands brought from great 
 distances. These chic dinners have sterlets 
 brought from the distant Volga, haunch 
 of reindeer from Lapland, a bear ham 
 from the frozen regions of North Russia, 
 and other novelties from other inhospitable 
 and uncomeatable places." 
 
 ROYAL SOUP. 
 
 "Emperor William recently expressed 
 to Grand Duke Vladimir, of Russia, his 
 regret at not being able to get a taste once 
 more of a certain Russian soup, called 
 ucba, of which he had been excessively 
 fond on his former visits to St. Petersburg, 
 and the proper recipe for which seemed to 
 be a secret, even to his chief cook. He 
 was pleasantly surprised shortly afterward 
 at having this favorite dish served to him 
 in a masterly manner. Grand Duke Vla- 
 dimir had quietly sent his cook to Berlin 
 with two enormous live sturgeons, taken 
 fresh from the Volga, this fish forming 
 the essential ingredients of the ucha. The 
 difficulty attending this little attention may 
 readily be appreciated from the fact that 
 the sturgeon had to be transported from 
 the frontier of Asia, and that this fish, like 
 trout, has to be kept constantly supplied 
 with fresh water during the transit in order 
 to keep it alive." 
 
 THE SAME IDEA WITH A PURPOSE IN IT. 
 
 "The bill of fare at the banquet which 
 was given at Madrid last week in honor of 
 the anniversary of the discovery of Amer- 
 ica was an international curiosity in its 
 way. By way of doing 'homage to Co- 
 lumbus' the guests who sat down to dine 
 at the Theatre Royal on the I2th inst. 
 were supplied with the following menu: 
 Soup Isabel, the Catholic and American 
 soup; fish from the port of Palos, from 
 which Columbus set sail on his first voy- 
 age to America, loin a 1'Amiral, Castilian 
 partridge, Andes pheasants, Jamaica punch, 
 roasted Brazilian peacock, Estremadura 
 beans, Havana sweetbread, New York ices, 
 Granada fruit, and Puerto Rico coffee."
 
 142 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 FLORAL DECORATIONS AT PRESIDENT 
 ARTHUR'S STATE DINNERS. 
 
 " The Marine Band was stationed at the 
 large entrance hall and played during the 
 evening, and the apartments on the lower 
 floor were thrown open and decorated. In 
 the East Room the mantels were banked 
 with plants and mosses, and fan and date 
 palms and tropical plants were grouped in 
 angles and window embrasures. Chains 
 of smilax on the chandeliers and mirror 
 frames enhanced the beauty of the apart- 
 ment. The red, blue and green parlors 
 were similarly decorated with palms and 
 plants, and at the end of the corridor the 
 silver Hiawatha boat, filled with roses, was 
 on an antique marble table. 
 
 "The guests arrived before 8 o'clock and 
 were first conducted to the dressing rooms 
 on the upper floors. When all had as- 
 sembled in the East Parlor the President 
 was summoned, and, descending with Mrs. 
 McElroy, greated his guests and led the 
 way to the state dining-room with Mrs. 
 Freilinghuysen as the first guest of honor. 
 The state dining-room was appropriately 
 decorated with palms, blooming azalias, 
 and other plants, and the table was orna- 
 mented with a large set-piece in flowers, 
 intended as a fanciful representation of the 
 hanging gardens of Babylon. The raised 
 garden overhung the long central mirror 
 which, as a lake with coral grottoes and 
 mossy shores, bore a fleet of tiny boats 
 loaded with roses. The garden, in canopy 
 shape, rose three feet or more from the 
 table and was nearly six feet in length. 
 It was composed of red and white carna- 
 tions, with banks of Marshal Niel and bon 
 silene roses, set with orchids. At the ends 
 of the mirror lake were tall gilt candelabra, 
 bearing shaded wax lights, and beyond 
 them large crystal bowls, overrunning 
 with long-stemmed roses. Circular plaques 
 of roses, carnations and lillies of the valley 
 flanked by silver candelabra, were at the 
 extreme ends of the table. 
 
 "The board was laid for thirty-six covers. 
 Six wine glasses, a water carafe and goblet 
 were at each place, together with the menu 
 
 cards and boutonnieres for the gentlemen, 
 and large corsage bouquets of roses or 
 lillies of the valley for the ladies. Sixteen 
 courses were served." 
 
 PRESIDENT CLEVELAND'S TABLE. RE- 
 VOLVING GLOBE. BASS IN JELLY. 
 
 "The centre of attraction in the dining 
 room was the long white damasked table, 
 about which the thirty-eight guests of the 
 evening sat with the President and Miss 
 Cleveland. The gilded central plateau, 
 which ran almost its entire length, had its 
 upright edges twined with smilax, and its 
 central ornament was an immense floral 
 globe fully ten feet in circumference. It 
 revolved under a square support and up- 
 right frame, and was set so high that it did 
 not obstruct the view across the table. 
 The land surface was marked by solid 
 clusters of carnations in red, white, pink, 
 and scarlet. The oceans were represented 
 by the lapped leaves of shining camellias, 
 and the bays, rivers, and small streams 
 were marked by tiny strands of smilax. 
 The square-framed support was garlanded 
 in smilax, and above it was a single star in 
 red immortelles. The globe almost rested 
 on a field of bon silene roses, set in a mass 
 of smilax. Two ships rode at anchor on 
 the mirrored surface of the plateau, their 
 hulls made of pink and white carnations. 
 The bow was filled with Catharine Mermet 
 roses, and the stern freighted with Parma 
 violets. The rigging was twined with 
 smilax. Two overflowing gilded vases of 
 Marechal Niel and bon silene roses marked 
 the extreme ends of the table, and flat bou- 
 quets the added corners that accommo- 
 dated four extra guests. A sea bass envel- 
 oped in jelly rode proudly in a chariot 
 drawn by sea nymphs, and round fanci- 
 fully arranged moulds of /a7e defoie gras 
 were the French chefs contributions to the 
 beauty of the table." 
 
 FLORAL DECORATIONS AT THE PRINCESS* 
 BALL. 
 
 "The ball to the Princess Louise and 
 the Marquis of L/orne at the Windsor Ho-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 143 
 
 tel in Montreal, b ought out the elite, and, 
 as it was the farewell to the Queen's 
 daughter, more than ordinary attention 
 was paid to it. Decorations in the floral 
 way from Boston, the rarest flowers from 
 hot-houses, and all that decorative artists 
 from New York could devise was done to 
 make the ball room attractive. The ball 
 room was magnificent, and, in fact, the 
 Windsor Hotel never looked so gay. The 
 scarlet and black of the infantry and blue 
 and gold of the cavalry and the stately 
 dress black, with the hundred and one 
 shades of silk and satins worn by the ladies, 
 together with the flashing of diamonds, 
 gave the grand promenade a bewildering 
 appearance. Soon after the dancers had 
 entered the room, Princess Louise entered 
 upon the arm of the Marquis, and they 
 took places upon a dais. The Princess 
 wore a white brocade cape overdress 
 trimmed with crimson velvet flowers, a 
 rich diamond necklace and head-dress of 
 diamonds, simplicity itself. She looked 
 very beautiful. The noticeable feature of 
 the ladies' toilet was the absence of low 
 neck and few floral head-dresses, and dia- 
 monds were generally worn in their place. 
 There were many celebrities present." 
 
 TENS OF THOUSANDS OF FLOWERS. 
 
 A Boston florist, who was engaged to 
 furnish part of the floral decorations for 
 the Princess Louise ball at the Windsor 
 Hotel in Montreal, had them transported 
 in a special car. There were : 20,000 roses, 
 20,000 carnations of different colors, 
 1,000 .spikes of tube roses, 500 bunches of 
 violets, 1,000 sprays of heliotrope, 2,000 
 strings of smilax, and 2,000 yards of En- 
 glish laurel. 
 
 DECORATED DISHES AT MRS. VANDER- 
 BILT'S RECEPTION. 
 
 " One piece was a game pie of pheasants, 
 the pie resting on a flat surface of wax, the 
 entire piece upheld with deer's antlers. 
 The sides of the pie were trimmed with 
 quails. Underneath were two rabbits play- 
 ing cards, while to the side of -the players 
 
 was a bridge, under which gleamed a lake 
 of water with goldfish swimming about. 
 
 "Another was a fruit dish in wax, in 
 which were placed imitation eggs and 
 potted reed birds. 
 
 "Another piece was a fillet of beef, with 
 a garniture of vegetables of all kinds rest- 
 ing on the shoulders of a Hercules; on 
 either side were placed some cupids, the 
 figures being of wax and very cleverly 
 executed. 
 
 " One of the most artistic pieces was a 
 two-foot salmon, resting in a wax boat, 
 while on the back of the fish sat a cupid ; the 
 boat was supported by a Neptune at each 
 end, seated in sea shells and driving sea 
 horses before them in a lake of real water 
 in which fish were swimming around. 
 
 "A fine piece was a flying Mercury poised 
 upon a ham, the ham being finely orna- 
 mented with a delicate tracing of truffles. 
 
 "About midnight the following artistic 
 supper was served : " 
 
 MENU DU SOUPER. 
 
 Consomm6 en tasse Huttres a la poujette 
 
 Croquettes de volatile Bouche'es a la reine 
 Terrapin a la Maryland Canvas-back duck 
 
 Galatine de chapon 
 
 Filet de boeuf, jardiniere 
 
 Aspic de foie-gras, belle yue 
 
 Chaudfroid de mauviettes Pate de gibier, chasseur 
 
 Pate de Strasbourg, naturel 
 
 Saumon a la Vatel Jambon a la gelee 
 
 Salade de poulet Salade de homard 
 
 Voliere de cailles Sandwiches varies 
 
 Charlotte moderne 
 Gel6e macedoine aux fruits Glacis assorties 
 
 MRS. VANDERBILT'S DIAMOND BALL. 
 
 The grandest and probably most expen- 
 sive ball which ever took place in New 
 York was given by Mrs. Vanderbilt about 
 three or four years previous to the recep- 
 tion alluded to above. It was described as 
 "an Eden of tropical exotics musical strains 
 from a rose-embowered arbor flashing 
 diamonds on a sea of silken waves a sup- 
 per fit for the gods, fringed by a cataract 
 of wine." The menu makes but a small 
 figure in print for an occasion that was 
 reported to have cost $30,000. But this 
 is it: 
 
 The menu was engraved in delicate 
 script and printed on a heavy bevelled 
 bristol card, with gilded edges, three and
 
 144 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 a half inches wide by five inches in depth. 
 In the centre, near the top, was the Vander- 
 bilt coat of arms in raised gold. 
 
 CHAUD. 
 
 Bouillon. 
 
 Hultres frites. Croquettes de volailles. 
 
 Terrapine a la Maryland. 
 
 FROID. 
 
 Saumon a la Rothschild. 
 Galantine de volaille aux truffes. 
 
 Filets de boeuf a la gelee. 
 Jambon a la gel6e. Poulet a la gel^e. 
 
 Chaudfroid de mauviettes. 
 Aspic de foie gras en bellevue. 
 
 Salade de volaille au celeri. 
 
 Mayonnaise de homard laitues. 
 
 Sandwiches a la Windsor. Pain de Rilette. 
 
 Baba au rum. 
 
 GLACES. 
 
 Napolitaine. Biscuit glace 1 . 
 
 Merveilleuse. Diable rose. 
 
 Vanille. 
 
 [Translation of the above menu.'] 
 
 HOT. 
 Bouillon. 
 
 Fried oysters. Chicken croquettes. 
 
 Terrapin, Maryland style. 
 
 COLD. 
 Salmon a la Rothschild. 
 
 Boned fowl, truffled. 
 
 Fillet of beef in jelly. 
 
 Ham in jelly. Chicken in jelly. 
 
 Chaudfroid of reed birds. 
 Aspic of foie gras en bellevue. 
 
 Chicken salad au celery. 
 
 Mayonnaise of lobster and lettuce. 
 
 Sandwiches a ia Windsor. Rilette bread. 
 
 Baba au rum. 
 Five varities of ices. 
 
 THE PROGRESSIVE DINNER NOVELTY. 
 
 "The progressive dinner has leaped at one 
 bound into popular favor. This new freak 
 of New York festivities imposes on each 
 geust of the masculine persuasion the duty 
 of moving at the end of each course one 
 seat to the left until he has completed the 
 circuit of the dinner table, tarrying for a 
 brief period at the side of each lady of the 
 party. When he has safely completed the 
 hazardous voyage and has steered once 
 more into the haven of refuge provided by 
 his first love, there he may rest till the 
 chairs are pushed back and a final adjourn- 
 ment taken. A much moie careful choos- 
 mg of guests to harmonize each with all is 
 sure to be the result of this last of fashion's 
 mandates, so a woman who has obeyed it 
 tells me, if the notion of the week is to en- 
 dure even for a fortnight, for a single dis- 
 cordant note mars the effect of all. Any 
 
 sandwiching in of dull folk or prosy folk 
 is sure to be revealed in this puss in the 
 corner game." 
 
 THIS LADY HAD A NEW IDEA. 
 
 " Recently Sefiora Romero, the wife of 
 the Mexican Minister at Washington, gave 
 a special afternoon reception, at which 
 Mexican chocolate was made by a Mexican 
 girl before the company. The girl, who 
 was unable to speak a word of English, is 
 a member of the company of Mexicans 
 now here who have recently established 
 the unique show, the Mexican village. On 
 a square table in front of the girl was a 
 native charcoal stove of red earthenware 
 in the shape of a gentleman's hat, and 
 called by the Mexicans 'brasero.' A half 
 moon cut in what would be the top of the 
 hat furnishes the necessary place for a 
 draught to keep the coal above near the 
 brim warm and glowing. The chocalate, 
 which is in large cakes, is then finely 
 broken into an earthen jar, on one side of 
 which is a handle. Into this jar is then 
 put cream, sugar, and the white of egg and 
 cinnamon, which are mixed by a small 
 instrument resembling a churn-stick, which 
 the girl moves rapidly between her hands 
 by rubbing them together. The compound, 
 which in appearance resembles the choco- 
 late ordinarily prepared, is thoroughly 
 heated through by being placed on the 
 glowing coals in the earthen jar in which 
 it is made. From this it was transferred 
 to the silver urn on the dainty spread table, 
 and served by the young ladies presiding." 
 
 CotlLD'NT "CALL OFF" THE ENTREES. 
 
 " The Greek consul in Boston is an hon- 
 ored and esteemed member of the New 
 England Club, who sit down to a pleasant 
 little family gathering at Young's every 
 Saturday afternoon. Yesterday happened 
 to be his birthday, and the president has 
 been engaged in devising a little surprise, 
 not only for the genial consul, but for the 
 whole club. It had been announced that 
 'Greece' was to be the subject of the 
 ! weekly discussion, but when the members
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 145 
 
 arrived at Young's yesterday afternoon, 
 and, after exchanging greetings, sat down 
 around a well laden board and took up the 
 menu cards, their faces at once assumed a 
 puzzled look, which gradually gave place 
 to expressions of utter despair or broad 
 gleams of fun. Then the waiters appeared, 
 gazed at the bills helplessly and hopelessly, 
 and retired for consultation. The entire 
 bill of fare was printed in Greek. There 
 were long words and short words, and 
 whole strings of hieroglyphics, which am- 
 bitious members vainly sought to translate 
 into the nomenclature of the modern cui- 
 sine. At last one member cut the Gordian 
 knot by summoning a chuckling waiter 
 and boldly ordering 'some of No. i.' 
 Others followed suit, and so the whole list 
 of goodies was disposed of amid much 
 hilarity and many earnest discussions as to 
 whether 'No. 6' was ever better, or whether 
 any member in his whole experience ever 
 remembered a time when 'No. 3' or 'No. 7' 
 tasted so good to him as on that particular 
 occasion. Ex-president Folsom, not fully 
 satisfied by the course arbitrarily prescribed 
 by the bill of fare, varied the monotony by 
 demanding 'Socrates hash,' and was loudly 
 seconded by another member who wanted 
 'Acropolis beans,' and yet a third who de- 
 clared for ' ham and eggs la Diogenes.' " 
 
 THE SAME THING ELSEWHERE. 
 
 " One of the most curious menus ever 
 issued to guests was that arranged by the 
 members of the British Medical Associa- 
 tion and served at the Ship Hotel, Green- 
 wich." 
 
 The entire bill of fare was printed in the 
 newspaper it was a large one, containing 
 many courses, and every word and head- 
 ing was printed in Latin. 
 
 NOTIONS IN SILVER. 
 
 "Among accepted novelties in dinner 
 giving in Paris must be mentioned the 
 now general fashion of much silver bric-a- 
 brac upon the tables. To each guest a tiny 
 silver salt cellar, of a different shape to 
 each cover. This in the shape of a mar- 
 
 mite, this of a saucepan, that of a shell. 
 Also at small familiar dinners to each 
 uest a little butler dish, also of silver, in a 
 fanciful shape and a tiny knife thereto an 
 excellent addition to a table when oysters 
 are served, and pretty withal, also appetiz- 
 ing with the ice-spangled pat of yellow 
 butter in the silver shell. Still at the 
 'diner intime,' in front of the host the 
 mustard pot, the pepper mill. Yonder a 
 silver pickle jar. The table should re- 
 semble a children's feast. Lilliputian 
 trifles everywhere. Candles are much 
 used now, with tinted shades, in silver 
 candlesticks." 
 
 THE VIENNA COFFEE FASHION. 
 
 " The latest agony in silver table decora- 
 tion is a very large platter with a swan at 
 one end. On this coffee cups are placed, 
 with a cream jug and sugar bowl. The 
 latter should be of Saxon manufacture to 
 be entirely correct. The huge swan, with 
 its outstretched wings and curved neck, is 
 in reality a coffee pot, which the hostess 
 can swing on and off the platter to serve 
 the fragrant beverage, lifting each time the 
 delicate throat of the bird. It is an old 
 Louis XV. model rejuvenated and a trifle 
 modernized." 
 
 DIFFERENT CHINA FOR EACH COURSE. 
 
 " A few years ago the dinner set signi- 
 fied every piece used upon the table from 
 the soup set to the after dinner coffees, 
 but fashion has changed all this and the 
 different courses are much more effective 
 served with dishes contrasting in color and 
 ornamentation. Very little extra expense 
 is involved in this change, as some of the 
 china or porcelain fish sets, soup, game or 
 oyster sets, with neat dessert and fruit sets 
 of the most artistic shape and decoration, 
 can be had at a very small price compared 
 with that of a complete set a few years 
 ago. Oyster sets are really not essential, 
 yet it is very nice to have them. The 
 half dozen oysters may be served upon 
 any dinner plate with a bit of lemon in the 
 center and should be upon the table when
 
 146 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 dinner is announced. A handsome soup 
 set adds much to the table, but fish may 
 be served upon any dining plate that can 
 be heated. A fish set showing designs of 
 salmon or trout strung upon hooks or in 
 the meshes of a net or from a forked stick 
 is certainly not a very appetizing sight. 
 The potato dish should be in harmony 
 with the fish service, whether it be plain 
 or decorative. Glass dishes may be used 
 for olives, pickles or cucumber salad, 
 which is very nice served with fish. These 
 may remain on the table during the entire 
 dinner. 
 
 ' Meats should not be served on plates 
 fancifully painted, a border only being in 
 better effect. Dinner plates, meat platter 
 and vegetable dishes should be alike, and 
 although the coffee cups must be the same 
 size or shape, they may exhibit different 
 colors and ornamentations. Haviland 
 porcelain is among the elegant table ware, 
 and its value is according to the decora- 
 tions, which are from the finest landscape 
 painting to the quaintest genre. Minton 
 china shows a white ground with floria- 
 tions veined and edged with gold. The 
 Danish porcelain, which is especially 
 adapted to dessert sets, shows the edges 
 open. The low, wide amber glass finger 
 bowls are fashionable and pretty, and 
 those in other styles and the elegant cut 
 glass bowls are often selected by the 
 wealthy." 
 
 CANDLES AND GLASS SHADES. 
 
 "The candle on the dinner table holds 
 its place still. The latest device that the 
 art ware establishments have contrived for 
 its adorning is a sliding scale that falls im- 
 perceptibly as the candle burns lower. The 
 shade is made in the simple Bohemian 
 glasses, in decorated art glass of every de- 
 scription, arid is sometimes seen in rare 
 jewelled glass in every rich, soft hue. The 
 shaded candle sheds over table furnishings, 
 flowers and faces of the guests the very 
 perfection of light that the dinner givers 
 have looked for these many years in vain." 
 
 NOTIONS IN ICES. 
 
 "At a Cinderella ball the ices, of the 
 biscuit glace, form in paper cases, each con- 
 tained a gift, either a small coin, a tiny 
 thimble, a ring, or some of the pretty toy- 
 like patterns in silver broches and watch 
 charms, cornelian hearts, sparkling flowers 
 in jewelry, all of the smallest description. 
 The gifts were wrapped in transparent cara- 
 mel paper and pushed down at one side of 
 the ice, and the outside of each case bore a 
 motto. Handsome flower-bordered cards, 
 with written quotations from the poets, 
 were attached to the spoons, which with 
 the plates were selected by the young ladies 
 and young gentlemen for each other in 
 turn." 
 
 CHANGING DECORATIONS FOR EACH MEAL. 
 
 One of the British princes was recently 
 entertained at the country seat of a noble- 
 man at a "hunt breakfast" and dinner, 
 and the decorations and table ware were 
 changed for each as follows : 
 
 HUNT BREAKFAST MENU. 
 
 Broiled Kidneys. Pulled Fowl. 
 
 Salmon Steaks. Scuffed Tomatoes. 
 
 Sheeps Tongues. Potted Pigeons. 
 
 Broiled Rump Steaks. Qunelles. 
 
 Croquettes of Rice and Ham. 
 
 Chickens in Bechamel. 
 
 Potted Game. Pate M6K. 
 
 Cold Sirloin of Beef. Pressed Tongues. 
 
 York Hams. Raised Pies (various). 
 Normandy Pippins. Stewed Prunes. 
 
 Clotted Cream. 
 
 Roast Snipes. Woodcocks. Trushes. 
 
 Apple Marmalade. Apricot Jam. Currant Jelly. 
 
 Vanilla Milk. Caf^ au Lait. Tea. 
 
 liqueurs. 
 
 "The tables on this occasion were dressed 
 with white cloths and decorated a lajardi- 
 ni&re. The silver antique jardinieres were 
 filled with ferns and spring flowers, peep- 
 ing out of mosses of various kinds. Large 
 silver bowls and epergnes on the side-board 
 and side tables were filled with exquisite 
 arrangements of hyacinths, tulips, wood 
 violets, snowdrops, etc., in mosaic patterns; 
 whilst hanging baskets graced the win- 
 dows, filled with the spiritulle cyclamen 
 light foliage, interspersed with yellow and 
 red flowers, that gave the grand old oak 
 hall a splendid appearance. The display 
 of antique plate would have delighted the
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 147 
 
 heart of the most enthusiastic antiquary, 
 and the tout ensemble seemed to give the 
 young prince much pleasure. 
 
 " The vanilla milk, which, by the way, 
 was half cream, found great favor, and was 
 served steaming hot in silver cups. Some 
 added curacoa to it, others a.fetit verre de 
 Cognac, but the majority preferred the 
 sweet beverage simply as prepared in the 
 kitchen by my worthy old friend, the chef, 
 who is too modest to allow me to give his 
 name." 
 
 The dinner menu was as follows: 
 
 SOUPS. 
 Vermicelli. Mulligatawney. 
 
 Salmon, Fennel Sauce. 
 
 Boiled Cod, Oyster Sauce. 
 
 Poulet ia Albert Victor, Mushroom Sauce. 
 
 Pigeons a la Zetland, Madeira Sauce. 
 
 Veal a la Piedmontese. 
 
 Blanquet de Mouton. 
 
 Roast Sirloin, Horss-radrsh Sauce. 
 
 Turkev, Sauce Athenian. 
 Asparagus en Croustade. Artichoke Fritters. 
 
 Bondon Cheese a la Diable. 
 
 Apricot Pudding. Devonshire Clotted Cream. 
 
 Bread and Butter Pudding, Wine Sauce. 
 
 Salad. Dessert. 
 
 "The room was decorated with palms, 
 choice tropical plants, and exqusite exotic 
 flowers, forming' a complete change to the 
 morning decorations. The band played 
 In an ante-room adjacent, which was cur- 
 tained off, and also profusely decorated 
 with mirrors and floral beauties. The din- 
 ner service ivas of very handsome old china, 
 the floral decorations on the table were 
 laid in the Oriental style now so fashion- 
 able." 
 
 A BOATING CLUB'S FANTASY 
 
 "The table was decorated with glass ware 
 In the shape of small boats mounted on 
 plateaux of looking-glass, surrounded by 
 sage-green plush borders, fringed by silk 
 blond lace of a lighter shade. The boats 
 rested on four glass oars, crossed at either 
 side, and forming a stand. Light trailing 
 foliage depended from the boats, and trailed 
 on the glass plateaux. Spring flowers 
 from the sunny South filled the boats and 
 nestled amidst ferns and mosses arranged 
 round the gunwales. At the prows of the 
 larger-sized bateaux were little flags and 
 
 ensigns. Small glass boats were laid at 
 each cover, filled with dark-blue violets 
 and French or Italian grown forget-me- 
 nots in alternate boats. The violets for 
 the gentlemen, the light-blue flowers for 
 the fair visitors. The menus were printed 
 on cards representing a yacht's sail, silver- 
 edged and supported at the back by an 
 oar, which fixed the card easel-fashion. 
 The napery was folded a la bateaux, and 
 the gunwales formed of violets, snowdrops, 
 and primroses, intertwined with light foli- 
 age and mounted on wire, so that they 
 were readily removed by the guests and 
 kept in form without the untidy litter often 
 caused by the insertion of loose sprays in 
 the serviettes. In the centre of the table 
 was an epergne filled with fruit and 
 flowers. In the middle of the large glass 
 dish, on the top, was an Undine boat, filled 
 with flowers, and an exquisite wax model 
 of Undine, the water spirit, in their midst. 
 The boat was surrounded by fruits and 
 flowers of the most expensive class, inter- 
 mixed with young palm-leaves and natural 
 grasses. At the foot, beside the claws (re- 
 presenting four lions cotichant), were groups 
 of little sailor dolls, representing the crews 
 and their friends, no doubt, some with 
 small polished oars, others with flags, and 
 a couple with flagons in their hands. The 
 tout ensemble was very pretty." 
 
 SCENE PAINTED BALL SUPPERS. 
 
 " The buffet was shaped in the conven- 
 ient horse-shoe style, and dressed with the 
 usual holly, mistletoe, bay, laurel, and 
 rosemary ; also a goodly show of chrysan- 
 themums and hot-house flowers the latter 
 arranged in baskets. A plentiful supply 
 of French-grown feathermoss, sent in 
 boxes, was a wonderful help to the buffet 
 dressing. One feature of the decorations 
 must not be forgotten, and it is a point that 
 caterers would do well to insist on being 
 adopted, as it is good for trade and a real 
 boon to the guests. I refer to the coterie 
 nooks in the ball-rooms, ante-rooms, and 
 conservatories. In this case they were 
 replicas of a moonlight scene. The land*
 
 148 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 scape painted in distemper on canvas at 
 the back. The moon, full or crescent, let 
 into the canvas and made of oiled paper, 
 and a lamp hung behind ; a bed of moss 
 reached slantwise from the scene to the 
 ground; chairs and 'sociables' were placed 
 amongst palms, shrubs, etc. Fairy rings 
 were made of mushrooms (edible ones, too, 
 for they were formed of sugar- work); in 
 the moss, and at a square coterie tabJe, 
 stood a neat-handed Phyllis, with pins, 
 needles and threads, perfumes, and a light 
 array of light refreshments ices, sherry, 
 champagne syphon, and aerated waters; 
 also plain iced water, eau sucre, and fruits. 
 It saves partners leaving to rush to the 
 salle-b-manger in search of ices, wines, etc., 
 for their lady friends, and if slight acci- 
 dents occur to the pretty, fairy-like or gor- 
 geous toilets of the fair dancers, they are 
 soon repaired without the inevitable with- 
 drawal to the cloak-room. Fairy lamps, 
 in wreaths, and peeping out from the foli- 
 age, completed most harmonious scenes." 
 
 SEA CAVERNS AND FAIRY GROTTOS. 
 
 "At Lord X's, one of the wealthiest 
 peers of the realm, great preparations are 
 being made for the coming of age of the 
 heir. He was a veritable Christmas box 
 to his family, being born on boxing-day, 
 and the festivities are to be of quite an elab- 
 orate character. There are to be two sup- 
 per rooms one Oriental and the other a 
 representation of ocean caves. The latter 
 is a wooden building thrown out from the 
 piazza, leading from the dining-room win- 
 dows, and taking the whole area of the 
 three windows and the lawn. This hint 
 as to mode of decoration may be useful 
 both to restaurateurs and caterers. The 
 caves are formed of cork, whitewashed, 
 and then brushed over with a solution of 
 Epsom salts and permitted to dry; this 
 forms crystals, and is mixed with other 
 pieces of cork finished by being dusted 
 whilst wet with ground glass. Glass dust 
 is procurable at a very cheap rate from the 
 glass works. These pieces of cork, when 
 finished, are to be nailed to the roof and 
 
 sides of the room, and pots of grass inter- 
 spersed amongst the wall decorations. 
 Coke coated with whi'ewash .for the 
 ground. Gas jets with reflectors of glass 
 mounted on discs with red, green and 
 white tinfoil at the back will be grouped 
 so as to give quite a fairy-like beauty to the 
 scene; and one large electric lamp will be 
 placed in the wooden building, the same 
 machine supplying the electricity as that 
 used for the ball room. This, bv the way, 
 is a continuation of the central hall, which 
 acts as reception and crush room, and for 
 the buffets of ices, claret and champagne 
 cups, etc." 
 
 A SEA SHELL DINXER. 
 
 "The host has a favorite hobby con- 
 chology and a most superb collection of 
 shells, corals, and algae, and the caterer 
 pressed the whole into his service, and 
 turned out what the hostess was pleased to 
 term 'one of the most beautiful and novel 
 table-dressings she had met with ; ' and her 
 experience is wide. 
 
 "The huge masses of white, pink, and 
 smaller clusters of red coral were disposed 
 of down the centre of the table, seaweeds 
 (dried, of course) clustering around their 
 base. Chrysantemums white, red, yellow, 
 etc. and their smaller brethren, the pom- 
 pons, were arranged in groups on rocks to 
 resemble sea-anemones, and in clusters on 
 the base of the corals. Star-fish and sim- 
 ilar Crustacea were of the greatest service. 
 In the fountains and at the foot of the 
 flower vases was a plentiful supply of gold 
 and silver carp. 
 
 "There was not nearly enough coral 
 branches for the design, so imitation clus- 
 ters were formed by making wire frame- 
 works, wrapping them evenly and regu- 
 larly over with soft-finished hank darning 
 cotton; then melting vermillion and pale 
 yellow wax and dipping in the clusters. 
 The separate groups required to be sus- 
 pended by wire and to be dipped in when 
 the wax is a little cool, then allowed to 
 hang with the points of the sprays down- 
 wards. When nearly set, have a few fine
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 149 
 
 needles or pins set in a cork and prick the 
 whole surface of the wax over, so as to 
 imitate the cells in the larger coral growths. 
 Large clam shells, one nearly ^ yard 
 across, served as flower vases, whilst their 
 smaller polished confreres of the sea, nau- 
 tilus and cup-like bivalves, made excellent 
 fruit-stands, in groups of three between 
 each guest. 
 
 "They used a species of fairy-lamp, 
 mounted on electro-silver stands, shading 
 from pale yellow to deep orange, from pale 
 blue to a very delicate Alexandra tint, and 
 rose to damask. These in two and threes, 
 with nautilus shells between, filled with 
 delicate white sprays, gave a subdued and 
 beautiful softness to the whole of the table 
 decorations. Nougat shells and rockeries 
 helped out the mise-en-sckne. Nor must I 
 forget the mermaids, made from dolls' 
 heads having long fair hair, and finished 
 with fish-tails formed from wax, and tinted 
 as one would shade wax flowers or fruit. 
 The colors were laid here and there on 
 silver and gold leaf, so as to shade from 
 silver white to lead or steel grey, and from 
 gold to deep orange yellow. A traditional 
 looking-glass and coral spray as a comb 
 completed the toilet, according to our Ay- 
 toun's old ballad: 
 
 ' For aye she cambed her yellow hair, 
 And syne she sang sae sweet.' 
 
 Only, the dolls did not sing; but the string 
 band in an adjacant chamber discoursed 
 some very fine music, classical and other- 
 wise, instead of the siren's song, which no 
 doubt the guests appreciated highly." 
 Cordon Bleu in the British Baker, Confec- 
 tioner and Purveyor. 
 
 A WEDDING BANQUET. 
 
 The following is the menu of a wedding 
 banquet served at the Southern Hotel, St. 
 Louis. Covers were laid for one hundred 
 and fifty persons. It was quite a swell 
 affair, the contracting parties being Mr. 
 Johannes Kluchu, of Hamburg, Germany, 
 and Miss Gustana Busch, daughter of Mr. 
 Adolphus Busch, the great St. Louis lager 
 beer brewer. The menu card, tied with 
 
 blue favors, was an artistic production in 
 the form of two hearts, and was much 
 admired for its elegance and novelty: 
 
 Consomm^ en tasses. 
 
 Pate's aux hultres. Sliced tomatoes. Cucumbers. 
 Pompano. Potatoes, Duchesse. 
 
 Haut Sauternes. 
 Tenderloin of beef, aux truffes. 
 
 French peas. 
 
 Chateau Bouillac. 
 
 Terrapin, a la Maryland. 
 
 Amontillado sherry. 
 
 Punch a la Romaine. 
 
 Bride's cake. 
 Snipe au cresson. Fresh asparagus. 
 
 Mumm's extra dry. 
 Charlotte Russe. Assorted cakes. . 
 
 Veuve Cliquot. 
 
 Roquefort cheese and hard crackers. 
 
 Ice cream. Fruits. Coffee. 
 
 Apollinaris water. 
 
 GRAND WEDDING RECEPTIONS. 
 
 " In the first place it is necessary, when 
 receiving the order for the 'wedding col- 
 lation,' to see the premises. The confec- 
 tioner, clief, or contracting party must view 
 the rooms. The shape of the drawing 
 room or grand hall decides where the bride 
 and bridegroom are to receive their guests. 
 
 "The parents of the 'happy couple' stand 
 at the entrance of the room and receive 
 the visitors as at a ball. The guests then 
 pass on to the top of the room where a 
 small raised dais is usually erected, covered 
 with crimson cloth and snow-white wool 
 or hair rugs. The bride is surrounded by 
 her bridesmaids and pages on the left-hand 
 side, and the groom by his best man, etc., 
 on the right. The dais, chairs, steps, etc., 
 are decorated with garlands of beautiful 
 white flowers, such as edelweiss, azaleas, 
 roses, stephanotis, jessamine, myrtle, vio- 
 lets, picotees, nicotiana afHnis, stocks, lili- 
 umcandimum, narcissus, hyacinths, bou- 
 vardia, etc., etc., which are all available, 
 and, being pure white, are used, not only 
 for the reception platform, with its ortho- 
 dox three steps, but also for the stand or 
 table on which the cake is placed to the 
 left of the bride's platform; and the 
 wedding present table on the bridegroom's 
 right hand. If the presents are very 
 numerous, boards and tressels are used, 
 covered with velvet or plush and lace, 
 generally guipure, to match the round or 
 oval table on which the cake is placed. A
 
 150 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 bow-window, an alcove well lighted, or, if 
 a square room, I have seen the hearth used 
 for the reception, whilst a perfect bower of 
 flowers, delicate fei ns, and feathery green 
 foliage was made over the pier glass, on 
 the surface of the mantle slab, in the grate 
 itself, and wreaths entwined like lattice 
 work depended from the corners of the 
 mantlepiece to the foot of the dais. 
 
 " A crimson cloth leads from the door to 
 the reception platform. It throws up the 
 beauty of the bride's white dress, and 
 should it be a widow remarried, with a 
 lavender-gray dress, the effect is equally 
 rich and beautiful. The two chairs, used 
 during long receptions, are generally gilt, 
 covered with crimson Utrecht velvet, pre- 
 ferably, as being a dead color resting 
 against the ivory satin or repp silk of the 
 bride's dress. If a white velvet train is 
 worn, the caterer must have repp chairs, 
 so that the contrast may be perfect. He 
 has all this to consider and arrange. 
 
 "Now for the Salle a Manger. Every- 
 thing that is admissible at a high class ball 
 supper is required here. The people who 
 only offer sandwiches are 'enough to make 
 a fellow wild,' as Johnny Toole has it, and 
 they are decidedly not bon ton, even if they 
 offer their guests the forty varieties noticed 
 by 'En Route' on Lang's celebrated buffets. 
 But a nos moutons. If more than one hun- 
 dred guests are to be arranged for, form the 
 buffets round three sides of the room, in 
 the horseshoe shape, it will please the bride 
 and her mother, the feminine deities of a 
 household being peculiarly superstitious, 
 deny the soft impeachment, if they can? 
 But to the caterer these corners are useful. 
 Raise a screen across each angle, pile vir- 
 gin cork t imitate rock work, also mosses, 
 grasses, ferns, and flowers against it. They 
 make nice places for your ' wash-ups,' and 
 the storage of an ice safe or two, relays of 
 pastry, fowls, etc., etc., and for urns of the 
 larger size with tea, coffee, etc., which if 
 near the displayed ices and jellies might 
 do serious damage. At all fashionable and 
 k la mode weddings there are two bride's 
 cakes. The major or best cake in the 
 
 drawing room and the minor in the refresh- 
 ment room. From forty to fifty small 
 tables are arranged with four seats to each, 
 menu cards form the centre-piece. The 
 prettiest I have seen were triangular, of 
 white porcelain, headed with a cupid 
 perched in a tree, and a slim fair maiden 
 in robes of white, with cornflowers in her 
 Leghorn hat, standing in a very fre-Ra- 
 pfiaelite field, with one of the archer god's 
 darts in her breast and her hand on it. 
 Whilst an Adonis of, I must confess, rather 
 dusky hue, and curly hair, was issuing 
 from behind a tree. By the way, I may as 
 well here give the 
 
 Caviare noir. Caviare de Xorwe"ge. 
 
 Huitres. 
 
 Pate de foie gras. 
 Galantine de tete de veau. 
 TERRINES (Potted meats). 
 
 Terrines de leveret. 
 Et perigord, bceuf , f aison, etc. 
 
 Mayonnaise du saumon. 
 
 Mayonnaise vert, blanc et jaune. 
 
 Andouiliettes, vol au-vents de crSme de poulette. 
 
 Crfime de veau, etc. 
 
 Godivaux et quenelles. 
 
 Langue de bceuf glace 1 . Boeuf r6ti et garni. 
 
 Poulettes. Jambons de Yorke. 
 
 Dindon rflti et en galantine, chevreuil rote. 
 
 Pat6 de venaison. Pate de faisan. 
 
 Faisan r6ti. Faisan a 1'Indienne. 
 
 Mayonnaise de perdreaux. Pat6 de perdreaux. 
 
 Florendines de lievre. Trophee de be"casse. 
 
 Pate" de b^casse. Pluviers en broche. 
 
 Ortolans en aspic. Cailles en aspic. 
 
 Aspics de poisson, de pigeon et de legumes. 
 
 Pates des gibers. Salaries. 
 
 PATISSERIES. 
 
 Puits d'amour. Meringues. Nougats. Gateaux. 
 Creams. Jellies. Ices, etc. 
 
 WINES. 
 
 Champagne. Claret cup. Port. . Sherry. 
 
 Chablis. Liqueur d'Or. Liqueur chartreuse. 
 
 Maraschino. Noyeau, pink and white. 
 
 Punch and lovinf cup. 
 Fruits, fresh and dried. Tea. Coffee, etc. 
 
 "The arrangements of the buffet are in 
 this wise. In the centre of the horseshoe 
 table is the wedding cake, ornamented with 
 a wreath of natural white flowers and green 
 foliage of a light character round its base. 
 The various tiers are dressed with group- 
 ings of designs in sugar work, showing 
 forth some Shakesperean love story ; Ten- 
 nysonian idyll ; or groupings of historic 
 scenes from the family history. The edges 
 are piped in white, and the wreaths on the 
 cake are of sugar work. If natural flowers 
 are used they are not placed on the sugar
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 151 
 
 work or icing direct, but in delicate vases, 
 and the stems wrapped in damp cotton 
 wool, as no water must touch the icing, 
 and the flavor of flowers and plants do not 
 add to the gout of the cake's icing. There 
 are usually stands of three tiers about four 
 feet long, draped in crimson or pale blue 
 sateen with lace valances, on which rest 
 the lighter pastries, jellies, creams, etc., 
 interspersed with groups of many-hued 
 flowers in ' pots, together with bouquets, 
 and stands of cut exotics, e*pergnes of fruits. 
 Trophies of game, fowl or sweets rests on 
 the buffet itself, whilst between the four- 
 feet tiers spaces are left where, behind the 
 buffet, the carvers, in their spotless white 
 dress and caps, are to be seen busily en- 
 gaged, and their assistant servers, neatly 
 dressed young women, handing the plates 
 to the army of well-trained servants and 
 waiters attending to the guests, who group 
 themselves at the small tables or sit down 
 at a long dining table in the centre of the 
 room. 
 
 "The rage just now is to have a high- 
 class string quartette band playing really 
 good chamber music, and not a few of dear 
 old Abbe Lizzt's pieces, Mendelssohn's 
 songs without word, music from the Mid- 
 summer Night's Dream, selections from 
 Flotow, Gounod, etc., find their way into 
 the programme of sweet sounds. The 
 cake in the Salle a Manger is not supposed 
 to be cut till the bride's parents or sisters 
 send it out to their absent friends and 
 relatives. To dream on, eh? It is the cake 
 in the reception room that receives the 
 honor of distribution, and is partaken of 
 with light wine at the reception." Cordon 
 Bleu in British and Foreign Confectioner. 
 
 WEDDING BREAKFASTS, AND THE PRICES 
 
 CHARGED. 
 [From the London Caterer^ 
 
 Lent will soon be over, then comes the 
 time when so many marriages are cele- 
 brated, and as it has now become much the 
 fashion to hold the wedding breakfast at 
 some good hotel, I think it just possible I 
 may be able to give some useful hints to 
 
 the inexperienced hotel keeper by publish- 
 ing menus of a few of the many wedding 
 breakfasts I have had prepared, together 
 with a short description of the table ar- 
 rangements, number of guests present at 
 each, and the charge per head. 
 
 MENU NO. i. 
 
 Consomm6 a la Victoria. 
 
 Aspic of Prawns. Lobster Salad. 
 
 Roast Fowls. Cumberland Ham. 
 
 Roast Lamb. Pressed Be ef. 
 
 Swiss Cake. Fruit Jellies. 
 
 Strawberry Cream and Lemon Water Ices. 
 
 Dessert and Bonbons. 
 
 The above, as will be seen, was a very 
 simple breakfast, as we were restricted to 
 price, 75. 6d. ($2.00) per head, including 
 half a pint of wine to each person". Sixteen 
 sat down. The table, a long one, seating 
 seven persons on either side and one at 
 each end, was laid in the ladies' coffee-room 
 (kept private for the day), and was prettily 
 decorated with a border of flowers, about 
 one foot wide, just inside the plates; oppo- 
 site the latter were sixteen rustic branches 
 rising from the flower border, to support 
 the menus, which were printed in silver on 
 a white ground. A small cake, sent by the 
 bride's parents, was in the centre. The 
 table-napkins were folded like tents, the 
 bridegroom being an officer in the army. 
 
 MENU No. a, 
 
 Consomm6 a la Nelson. 
 Mayonnaise of Salmon. Lobster Patties. 
 
 Lamb Cutlets and Green Peas. 
 
 Capons Bechamel a la Belle Viie. 
 
 Galantine of Veal. Game Pies. 
 
 Italian Salad. 
 Wine Jellies. Velvet Cream. 
 
 Charlotte a la Parisienne. 
 
 Chocolate and Strawberry Ices. 
 
 Dessert and Bonbons. 
 
 The above was served for twenty-four 
 persons at IDS. 6d. ($2.50) per head, includ- 
 ing a pint of wine for each person. The 
 table, a long one, was laid in the ladies' 
 coffee-room, kept private as before. The 
 cake, a very high one, was sent in by the 
 bride's friends. The bridegroom being a 
 naval officer, we decorated the table with 
 little satin flags, suggestive of a ship on 
 some great holiday. From the cake (form- 
 ing the centre or highest mast) depended 
 twenty-four silk ropes, on which were 
 threaded the tiny flags. These were ter-
 
 152 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 minated by a china figure of a sailor boy 
 holding the menu to each guest. The menu 
 was very pale blue, printed in a deeper 
 shade. The table-napkins folded like boats, 
 and the most beautiful sea-weeds were 
 mixed with the flowers. The effect was 
 charming and gained me warm approbation 
 from those who gave the breakfast. 
 
 MENU No. 3. 
 
 Palestine Soup. 
 Pate" de Foie gras en Aspic. 
 
 Croustade de Ris de Veau. 
 Mutton Cutlets a la Princesse. 
 
 Lobster Salad. 
 Petits Poulets bouilli k la Cr6me. 
 
 Pat6 & la Parisienne. 
 Poulet R6ti. Quartier d'Agneau. Quails. 
 
 Crfime aux Fraises. Gele'es. 
 
 Pouding glace i la Nesselrode, Iced Gooseberry 
 
 Fool, Dessert, and Bonbons. 
 
 The above was served in the general 
 coffee-room (kept private for the time). 
 Thirty sat down. Charge, 125. 6d. ($3.00) 
 per head, including pint of wine. The 
 table was T-shaped, a short table being 
 placed at the upper end of the longer one. 
 The cake, supplied by bride, was in centre 
 of the long table, and the decorations were 
 flowers in low, flat dishes, placed entirely 
 round the principal joints, etc., and little 
 china figures of children holding a small 
 bouquet in one hand, the menu in the other, 
 to each guest The table-napkins were 
 folded like a letter, held together by a sil- 
 vered quill pen, menus the same, the bride- 
 groom being a solicitor. 
 
 MENU No. 4. 
 
 Oysters. Nouille Soup. 
 
 Aspic of Lobster. 
 
 Fillets of Soles in Savoury Jelly. 
 
 Fillets of Chicken, Tartar Sauce, 
 
 Galantine of Veal. Boiled Fowls with Truffles. 
 
 Roast Chickens. Ox Tongue. Pressed Beef. 
 
 Partridges. Black Game. Grouse. 
 
 Chartreuse of Fruit. Cold-water Jelly. 
 
 Neapolitan Cakes. Fanchpnettes. 
 
 Compote of Peaches. Trifle. 
 
 Apricot Cream and Orange-water Ices. 
 
 Dessert and Bonbons. 
 
 Forty-five sat down to the table. Charge, 
 15s. ($3-75) P er head, including pint of 
 wine to each. Long table, same as Nos. i 
 and 2 ; but in addition to the cake provided 
 by the bride's relations, and which formed 
 the centre, we had six very handsome sil- 
 ver e"pergnes, and the flowers were fes- 
 tooned right down the table, the cake and 
 
 e*pergnes forming the supports. A pair of 
 tinted doves were placed before each guest, 
 one holding the menu in its beak, the other 
 a few choice flowers. Table napkins folded 
 like a large Lily of the Nile. 
 
 MENU No. 5. 
 Consomme a la Princesse. Pure'e i la Reine. 
 
 Homard Jt la Victoria. 
 
 Cailles farci aux Perigord. 
 
 Mayonnaise de Volaille aux Olives. 
 
 Timbale de Pigeons . la Gele. 
 Supreme de Volaille a la Jardiniere, 
 
 Petits Bouchers aux Hultres. 
 
 COtelettes d'Agneau aux Cocombre. 
 
 Langue de bceuf d'e'carlate. Poulet roti aux Cresson. 
 
 Dame de Saumon & la Montpellirr. 
 P4t6 de Gibier. Poulets bouilli & la Bechamel. 
 
 Quartier d'Agneau. Dames d'Honneur. 
 
 Compete d'Orange. Gelees & la Royal et d'Or. 
 
 Genoise Glace. Crfime aux Pafait d Amour. 
 
 Eau d'Ananas. CrSme aux Fraises. 
 
 Dessert and Bonbons. 
 
 Fifty sat down to the above. Charge, 
 175. 6d. ($4.25) per head, including pint of 
 champagne to each person. The table was 
 laid in the table d'hdte room, and was most 
 beautifully decorated with flowers and 
 many valuable articles of glass and plate 
 lent by the families of the bride and bride- 
 groom. Noticeable amongst these were 
 fifty silver ornaments, including cupids, 
 shepherds and shepherdesses, doves, and 
 other birds, for holding the menus, which 
 were of white satin, printed in bright blue, 
 but very small type. Table-napkins folded 
 in various shapes, so as to hold a small 
 bouquet of flowers. 
 
 MENU No. 6. 
 Potage aux Kultres. Consomme" k la RoyaL 
 
 Salade d'Homard Mont6. 
 
 Pat(5 de Foie Gras a la Gel<e. 
 
 Supreme de Volaille aux Truffes. 
 
 Pate' de Gibier k la Strasbourg. 
 
 Roulades braise a la Royale. 
 
 Mayonnaise de Saumon & la Montpellier. 
 
 Petits Poulets aux Champignons. Quails. 
 
 Gateaux a la Lome. Meringues au Cafe Mocha 
 
 Gt-le'es aux Ponche et d'Or. 
 
 Fanchonettes & la Cr6me. 
 
 Chocolate Cream and Cherry Water Ices. 
 
 Dessert and Bonbons. 
 
 The above was for twenty persons. 
 Charge, 2 is. ($5.00) per head, including 
 pint of champagne to each person. This 
 was served in a large private sitting-room, 
 T-shaped table, charmingly ornamented 
 with twenty little arches formed of flowers, 
 under which stood a little alabaster figure, 
 holding the menu opposite each guest. 
 Arches were also formed over the principal
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 dishes, these being surmounted by tiny 
 white and red satin flags, bearing the united 
 monograms of the bride and bridegroom. 
 The effect was exceedingly good, and 
 gained a deal of praise. 
 
 MENU No. 7. 
 
 Potage de Gibier Clair. 
 
 Petits Croustades aux Huitre=. 
 
 Choxix froid de Perdrix aux Truffes. 
 
 COtelettes de Mouton a la Provencale. 
 
 Salades d'Homard k la Victoria. 
 
 Mayonnaise de Volaille aux Pois. 
 
 Poulet aux Meriton. Jambon a 1'Ecarlate. 
 
 Langue de Bceuf Mont6. Petits Poulets r6tis. 
 
 Boeuf Brais6. Coq de Bruyere. 
 
 Baba a la Polonaise. Lonidor de Raisins. 
 
 Vetille a Comfiture. Gateaux de Savoie. 
 
 Vanilla Cream and Currant-water Ices. 
 
 Dessert, Bonbons. 
 
 The above was served for eighteen at 
 2is. ($5.00) per head, including pint of 
 champagne for each person. The table 
 was a long one, with cake in the centre. 
 Its entire surface was covered with flowers 
 In low flat dishes between the different 
 viands. The' napkins were folded like 
 artichokes, every fold being filled with 
 flowers, so that each napkin looked like a 
 bouquet. A miniature sword and gun were 
 crossed and placed upright before each 
 guest, so as to support the menus, which 
 were silver laid, made in the form of a 
 shield, and printed in bold red type. 
 
 MENU No. 8. 
 
 Soup la Reine. Asparaarus Soup. 
 
 Salmon, Sauce Hollandaise. Fillets of Soles. 
 
 Ovsttr Patties. Quenelles of Chicken. 
 
 lEscallopes of Lark. Leveret Cutlets. 
 
 Truffled Turkey. Russian Tongue. 
 
 Roast Lamb. Spring chicken. 
 Pigeons in Jelly. Terrine de Foie Gras. 
 
 Quails. Lobster and Italian Salads. 
 
 Small Pastry. German Tart. Fruit Jellies. 
 
 Vanilla Creams. Ice Pudding. 
 
 Dessert and Bonbons. 
 
 The above was served for twenty -eight 
 persons at 255. ($6.00) per head, including 
 a pint of champagne for each. The table 
 was a large square one, formed of four 
 smaller ones placed together, so as to seat 
 seven at each s'de. The cake, a very large 
 one, was placed in the centre, and a sloping 
 bank made all round to come about eighteen 
 inches on to the table. From this raised 
 bank twenty-eight festoons of flowers de- 
 pended, each terminating opposite a guest, 
 and finished by a little cupid holding the 
 menu, which was white satin bordered with 
 
 a row of small pearls. The effect was 
 charming, and, indeed, the table was pho- 
 tographed for its beauty and the photos 
 sold locally, the bridegroom being a public 
 man and popular in the neighborhood. 
 
 In all cases the entire service was of 
 white china. The waiters wore white 
 gloves during the breakfast. Crimson 
 cloth was laid on the front steps and down 
 to the carriages. A large drawing room 
 was set apart for the guests to assemble in 
 before breakfast, and bedrooms allotted for 
 the ladies and gentlemen to leave their 
 ha's, cloaks, etc., etc. 
 
 I made a point to have everything ready 
 long before the time required. All the 
 dishes decorated the last thing with fresh 
 flowers. Plenty of ice on the table, and a 
 sufficient number of waiters (allowing one 
 to five guests), with extra hands to carry 
 to and from the rooms. No talking al- 
 lowed amongst the servants, and a good 
 supply of extra cutlery, glass, cloths, and 
 anything else that might be wanted. Prob- 
 ably in attention to these details may be 
 found the chief reason why these enter- 
 tainments passed off so successfully as 
 they did. 
 
 SOMETHING ABOUT THE COST. 
 
 " A dozen big suppers have been given 
 this winter at a cost of $50 per person. 
 The flowers at the famous Vanderbilt ball 
 cost $12,000. The roses for Mrs. Bradley 
 Martin's dinner and cotillon cost $15,000. 
 One hundred guests sat down to the din- 
 ner. It cost $75 per person, inclusive of 
 the flowers and the favors. The Living- 
 ston ball and supper in Delmonico's in 
 January cost $30,000. 
 
 "A dinner was given the other evening 
 in one of the highly decorated apartments 
 of an uptown hotel that cost $75 per plate. 
 Nine guests sat down to this feast, which 
 was worthy of Lucullus. Hand-painted 
 menus, worthy of preservation as works 
 of art, cost five dollars each. The cigars 
 were specially imported from Havana with 
 a brand prepared for the occasion. Many 
 of the wines were specially ordered."
 
 154 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 TEN DOLLARS PER PLATE. 
 
 Press Club banquet at Delmonico's ; 250 
 plates at $10.00 per plate, including wine: 
 
 Sauteraes Ire Hultres 
 
 Sherry Poiages 
 
 Consomme a la Douglas 
 
 Bisque d'Homards 
 Varies Hors d'GEuvres Varies 
 
 Timbales a la Rcine 
 Sauternes Ire Poisson 
 
 Saumon de 1'Oregon a la Nantaise 
 
 Pommes de Terre Per^ihade 
 Pommery sec Releves 
 
 Filets de Bceuf a la Montebello 
 
 Choux ae rfruxelles 
 St. Julien Superieur Entrees. 
 
 Poulardes Braisees a la Lyonnaise 
 Croquettes de ris de veau 
 
 Petits pois au buerre 
 
 Haricots verts 
 Sorbet a 1 "Imperial 
 Macon Veauz Roti 
 
 Canvas-back Duck Salade de Laitue 
 Entremets de Douceur 
 
 Pouding aux Bananes 
 
 Gauffres a la Crfime Gelee aux pistaches 
 Liqueurs Pieces Montees 
 
 Glaces Napohtaine Biscuit Diplomate 
 
 Fruits Petits fours Caf 
 
 Cigares et Cigarettes 
 
 FIVE DOLLARS PER PLATE WITHOUT 
 WINE. 
 
 The Brooklyn Eagle, commenting on 
 Dr. Parker, the now famed English 
 preacher, says: "Dinner was his great 
 meal, and it generally put him in a condi- 
 tion of gentle torpidity for two hours after 
 his encounter with it. But his other meals 
 were by no means to be sneezed at Here 
 is one of his suppers, eaten at i r o'clock at 
 night in his rooms in the St. George. It 
 is an average light meal for him. 
 
 Green turtle soup for two ............. $1.00 
 
 Fried smelts for two .................. i.oo 
 
 Porterhouse steak for two ............ i.oo 
 
 One whole broiled chicken ............ i.io 
 
 Baked potatoes for two ............... 20 
 
 Ice Cream for two .................... 40 
 
 Total .............................. $4-70 
 
 SIX DOLLARS WITH WINE AT THE CAFE 
 ROYAL, LONDON. 
 
 For the man who wishes to entertain a 
 party at dinner, and who can afford to dis- 
 regard expense, the Royal offers exceptional 
 advantages. We give the menu of a dinner 
 for which the management were respon- 
 sible. They were told to draw up a menu 
 
 for a first-class dinner and to fix their own 
 charge per head. The charge was i 55., 
 and the menu as follows: 
 
 Chablis Clos. 
 iSSi. 
 
 Amontillado. 
 Marcobrunner. 
 
 MOet et Chandon 
 
 iSSo, 
 Cuvee Xo. 300. 
 
 Ch. Brown 
 Cantenac, 1875. 
 
 Fine 
 Champagne. 
 
 Porto. 
 
 Hultres. 
 Imperalrice. 
 
 Saumon, Sauce Mousseline. 
 
 Pommes Chateaubriand. 
 
 Salade de Concombres. 
 
 BlanchailleJ au Xaturel et a la 
 
 Diable. 
 Coquilles de Crustaces a la Caf$ 
 
 Hoyal. 
 Poulets dc Printemps sautes 
 
 a la Chasseur. 
 Quartier d'Agneau, Sauce 
 
 Menthe. 
 
 Petits Hois. 
 
 Pommes Rissol^es. 
 
 Cailles bardees a la Casserole. 
 
 Salade. 
 
 Mousse a la Napolitaine glacee. 
 Fromages. Dessert. 
 
 TWO DOLLARS WITHOUT WINE. 
 
 For dinners in private rooms the prices 
 vary. Here is the menu of a dinner at 75. 
 6d. a head, given by the editor of a societj 
 paper to his staff of lady contributors : 
 
 Consomme" de Volaille a la Rosalie. 
 
 Garbure lie. 
 
 Filets de Soles a la Mornev. 
 
 Blanchailles au Naturel et a la Diable. 
 
 Petits Ris en Caisse aux Pointes d'Asperges. 
 
 Pitreons de Bordeaux sau'e's a la Nicols. 
 
 Quartier d'Agneau, Sauce Menthe. 
 
 Pommes rissolees. 
 
 Petits Pois. 
 
 Poulets de Printemps. 
 
 Jambon d'YorK. 
 
 Salade. 
 
 Be^gnets de Pommes. 
 
 Souffles au Chocolat glaces. 
 
 Fromages. Dessert. 
 
 A TEN-DOLLAR MEAL FOR FIVE DOLLARS. 
 
 If you are a frugal man you will never 
 go to the Brunswick or Delmonico's alone. 
 Take your wife, your daughter or your 
 sweetheart along, for in these establish- 
 ments each portion served will be found 
 sufficient for two, and each is intended for 
 two. The extra service costs nothing. If 
 you have no lady iriend or relative in town 
 take a gentleman along, and remember, if 
 you are on terms of close intimacy with 
 him, that there is no impropriety in throw- 
 ing out a gentle hint that the expense be 
 borne equally by each. Your repast may 
 cost you each a dollar, or it may cost ten 
 dollars. Take, as an instance, this very 
 general order:
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 155 
 
 Rockaway oysters $0.50 
 
 California brook trout i.oo 
 
 Shoulder of lainb 0.80 
 
 Mallard duck 1.5 
 
 Bermuda potatoes 0.25 
 
 Celery 040 
 
 Asparagus o.lto 
 
 Champagne , quart bottle S' 
 
 Malaga grapes 0.40 
 
 Turkish coffee 0.20 
 
 This sums up $10.65. 
 
 Give the waiter eleven dollars and ac- 
 cept no change, otherwise he will be of- 
 fended and ^ will be sure to receive you 
 with a scowl next time yon call. Your 
 meal will thus cost you each five dollars 
 and a half. There is no extra charge for 
 occupying a private room, but you cannot 
 have one unless your party is sufficiently 
 large to fill it. The smallest of these 
 rooms is intended to accommodate four 
 persons. A costly display of ornamenta- 
 tion is rarely made or desired for small 
 parties. Regularly organized societies or 
 clubs and associations of college graduates 
 have the . monopoly of these things, and 
 the expense can be made light or heavy as 
 the guests desire. A small fortune can be 
 expended in a night on flowers, menus and 
 souvenirs. 
 
 DINNERS AT THIRTY DOLLARS. 
 
 The chef at the Brunswick says that no 
 dinner has recently been served at the 
 establishment at which the cost per cover 
 exceeded thirty dollars. In one instance 
 the party consisted of forty ladies and 
 gentlemen, who believe that the acme of 
 human happiness is to sit perched aloft on 
 a tally-ho as it rumbles over the highways. 
 A bright and chatty waiter, employed in 
 the place, said : " Dinners at thirty dollars, 
 or even at twenty dollars, are as few and 
 far between as those at seventy-five dollars. 
 You will be about correct if you sav a 
 complete dinner with wine can be served 
 to small parties for from twelve to fifteen 
 dollars each, and for large ones at from 
 eight to ten dollars each." 
 
 TEMPERANCE CATERING. 
 
 " Do you cater to the so-called temper- 
 ance people?" asked the writer. 
 
 " Yes, and while there is no wine served 
 from bottles, we manage to introduce 
 enough of it to make the company lively. 
 There is mighty little inspiration to be ob- 
 tained out of a glass of water, and that 
 class of people knows this as well as we do. 
 They don't, as a rule, order us to fortify 
 the viands with wine, but I notice that 
 dishes which contain spirits are usually 
 selected from the bills of fare submitted 
 for their consideration. Roman punch is 
 always acceptable to them and is jokingly 
 called 'the life-saving station' of a tem- 
 perance dinner. Fritters of fruits and 
 vegetables having maraschino sauce is an- 
 other temperance delight not often ob- 
 jected to. 
 
 "Terrapin may be good eating without 
 a little sherry," continued the caterer, "but 
 I have never served it without adding 
 sherry to it. Every one knows that it is the 
 wine which improves its flavor. Terrapin 
 is a very popular dish among so-called tem- 
 perance diners. There are a variety of 
 sauces which are served with meats that 
 contain more or less wine. The one most 
 favored at these temperance dinners is 
 sauce Bordelaise. The electric pudding, 
 so called because it is liberally charged 
 with brandy, was invented by a temperance 
 dinner-giver. Here are three of their bills, 
 of fare having tipsy parson pudding on 
 them. In desserts we can furnish an end- 
 less variety of dainties well calculated to 
 losen the tongues of temperance after-din- 
 ner speakers. When you want to give 
 that kind of a banquet come and see me." 
 
 TIPSY FRUIT AT A TEMPERANCE 
 BANQUET. 
 
 'The most notable anecdote of Hayes' 
 administration seems to have been that 
 relating to the device resorted to to turn 
 the flank of Mrs. Hayes' determination to 
 allow no intoxicating beverages at her 
 table. Mr. Evarts, Secretary of State, re- 
 fused to permit the Diplomatic Corps to be 
 invited to their customary annual dinner 
 unless wine could be on the table. This 
 Mrs. Hayes refused to allow ; but the stew-
 
 ',56 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 ard managed to gratify those fond of some- 
 thing stronger than lemonade. Among 
 the delicacies on the table were an extra- 
 ordinary number of oranges, and waiters 
 were kept busy replenishing the salvers on 
 which the tropical fruit lay. Glances 
 telegraphed to one another that the miss- 
 ing link was found, and that, concealed 
 within the oranges was delicious frozen 
 punch, a large ingredient of which was 
 strong old Santa Croix rum. This phase 
 of the dinner was named by those who 
 enjoyed it 'the life-saving station.' " 
 
 PROHIBITIONISTS AND FASHIONABLE 
 COOKERY. 
 
 There is no little stir among the prohi- 
 bitionists who attended the great banquet 
 at Martinelli's the other night, for it has 
 been discovered that brandy, wine, white 
 and red, and other liquors were served to 
 them in disguise. The banquet was served 
 in honor of Brother Demarest, their great 
 leader. 
 
 While no liquor was served as a bever- 
 age, and not even Roman punch appeared 
 in that part of the feast known as the life 
 saving station, yet the discreet cooks had 
 in other respects not been sparing of vari- 
 ous forms of alcohol. For instance, in the 
 mushroom sauce there was some fine old 
 brandy, whose function in the sauce was 
 to prevent it from fermenting. In the 
 bisque of lobsters was some royal old 
 sherry, placed there to prevent the lobster 
 from settling to the bottom of the soup 
 plates. 
 
 One of the firm who run the establish- 
 ment under Martinelli's name said : 
 
 "There is nothing so discouraging to a 
 caterer as serving a series of prohibition 
 spreads, and we would not have taken that 
 night's order were it not for the fact that 
 some of the gentlemen dine here occasion- 
 ally and drink claret with their meals. A 
 caterer who serves many so-called prohibi- 
 tion dinners somehow gets the reputation 
 of not caring to serve fine dinners. Yet 
 we are obliged to use liquors secretly, or 
 our reputation is ruined. Every cook 
 
 knows that a bisque of lobster must have 
 wine in it to tone it up, and no cook ever 
 lived who made a mushroom sauce to serve 
 with^ meats without brandy or a heavy 
 wine to keep it of the proper consistency. 
 
 " Now, had they paid $4 per plate for 
 their dinner, we would have given them a 
 temperance banquet that would have made 
 their hair curl. First, we would give them 
 mock turtle soup, which for a party of 
 sixty would take four bottles .of sherry to 
 tone it up. Then we would give a baked 
 striped bass, with sauce Bordelaise, which 
 everybody knows contains a large amount 
 of claret. Chicken Bearnaise would follow, 
 and by this time the guests would begin to 
 be communicative and begin to enjoy their 
 dinner. We always serve Roman punch 
 at these first-class prohibition feasts, but 
 disguise it under another name and con- 
 ceal the flavor of the rum or kirsch by 
 strong vanilla and other flavors, but orange 
 is the best flavor to use for this purpose. 
 The name under which this punch is gen- 
 erally served is punch cardinal. 
 
 "Tipsy parson pudding is, strange as it 
 may seem to you, the favorite dessert at 
 these dinners. We soak the cake in sherry, 
 then cover it with a rich custard sauce, 
 and it takes like hot cakes on a frosty 
 morning. The most acceptable cream is 
 St. Honore. This contains a fine cordial- 
 flavored cream surrounded with maca- 
 roons, and these are surrounded with 
 brandy cherries. As for cheese they pre- 
 fer it mixed to a paste and moistened with 
 brandy. This, when spread upon toasted 
 crackers, is delightful. No one, prohibi- 
 tionist or gourmet, can have a dinner which 
 is worth eating in which liquor does not 
 perform its function, open or concealed, 
 and we never gave a temperance dinner in 
 which brandy and wine were not used in 
 cooking." 
 
 TOO RICH FOR HIS BLOOD. 
 
 "The Major-General in charge of the 
 militia here (San Francisco), after reading 
 the interview which a reporter had with 
 the captain of the salvation army, con-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 157 
 
 eluded that he ought to show him some 
 military courtesies, and so invited him to 
 dinner. 'Hallelujah! How d'ye do?' said 
 the visitor on entering a fashionable res- 
 taurant, in response to the invitation ; and 
 as he looked round and saw nothing but 
 water on the table, he smiled approvingly. 
 ' And you drink water, too, general ? ' said 
 the Salvationist. *Most frequently,' was 
 the reply. ' Here's \o your health, brother 
 soldier!' And the mundane and spiritual 
 officers pledged each other. The first 
 course was terrapin soup, with about a 
 bottle of good old Madeira in it. It was a 
 new dish to the Salvationist, and he bright- 
 ened up considerably after the third plate- 
 ful, and asked all about the habits of terra- 
 pin. 'Hallelujah! but it's comforting and 
 warming.' ' Only a very plain repast,' re- 
 plied the M.-G., as the waiter brought on 
 a roast hare with currant jelly and Bur- 
 gundy sauce. 'Delicious eating, a hare,' 
 said the captain, 'and magnificent sauce 
 this. We poor soldiers of the church sel- 
 dom fare like this. Gimme some more 
 sauce. And what exquisite coffee!' he 
 continued, as he swallowed a cup of black 
 coffee with a glass of cognac in it, and 
 passed it to the waiter to refill it. 'So 
 proud to meet a man like you, general, in 
 this city! Such noble example! Going 
 to write to headquarters to-night. Splendid 
 omelette that, too, looks as if it had been 
 on fire.' 'Try a preserved peach,' said the 
 general, helping his guest liberally to some 
 brandied peaches; 'they are very soothiug 
 and just one more cup of coffee before 
 you go.' Hallelujah ! general, don't care 
 if I do. Shay, genrul, dontyherfeel 
 shleepy?' And the good man bowed his 
 head on the table, and was dreaming in 
 three minutes that he was leading a cru- 
 sade in Chicago and had converted 14,000 
 
 gamblers. When he woke up he did not 
 feel well, and his host was facing him, 
 blowing a fragrant Havana. ' Accept my 
 carriage home, captain,' he said as he led 
 him into a four-bit coupe" and told the 
 driver where to take him. The captain 
 did not preach that night, and he has been 
 wondering ever since whether there was 
 not something queer about that coffee." 
 
 SARCASTIC, BUT SUGGESTIVE. 
 
 "The caterer for the ball or dinner at the 
 residence of the hosts often supplies all the 
 linen and table ware, as well as the decora- 
 tions and feast. The caterer generally has 
 a large supply of the articles needed, from 
 a dozen salt cellars to a large epergne, 
 with accommodation for a miniature lake 
 for live gold fish to disport in, and reaps a 
 handsome profit from their hire on these 
 occasions. He generally purchases these 
 articles at auction, and keeps them in fine 
 condition. He is chary about purchasing 
 any silver or china with monograms, for 
 the obvious reason that the initial would 
 often prove embarrassing to many hosts. 
 He does not object to the inscription 
 ' Mother,' or ' From Father,' because that 
 would be applicable in almost every case, 
 excepting that of a bachelor. His bonanza 
 is silver-ware containing a crest. He al- 
 ways finds that such pleases his hosts. 
 The caterer takes entire charge of the cu- 
 linary arrangements and the preparation 
 of the table, supplying the servants and 
 superintending the service as well. He 
 transports his wares in specially constructed 
 boxes, takes his gripsack, prepared for any 
 change in the weather, and the business is 
 so well systematized that there are ordi- 
 narily no hitches or mistakes. Often the 
 family table ware, linen and china are not 
 used."
 
 STEWARDING AND CATERING ON A GRAND SCALE. 
 
 STEWARDING AT HARVARD UNIVERSITY. 
 
 The boarding of the Harvard students 
 is managed on the co-operative plan by a 
 " Harvard Dining Association," which is 
 like the "house committee" of many clubs, 
 but on a larger basis, the different classes 
 and schools being represented on the 
 ' Board of Directors," which is composed 
 of fifteen students and is the executive 
 body which engages the steward, second 
 steward and head waiter. 
 
 This "house committee" of fifteen, 
 standing in the position of the hotel-keeper, 
 has the task to perform of setting a good 
 table at the lowest possible rate, the stu- 
 dents under this arrangement being fur- 
 nished with board at its actual cost, and 
 the price consequently flunctuates accord- 
 ing to the running expenses from $3-9o to 
 $4.20 a week. The menu of the three 
 meals is : 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 Oatmeal. Cracked Wheat. 
 
 Fried Cod. 
 
 Mutton Chops. Eggs. 
 
 Lyonaise Potatoes. 
 
 Griddle Cakes. Hot Rolls. Toast. Coffee. Tea. 
 
 LUNCH. 
 
 Chicken Soup. 
 
 Cold Corned Beef. Cold Ham. 
 
 Oatmeal. Cracked Wheat 
 Pumpkin Pie. Mino-i Pie. Cheese. 
 
 Cocoa. 
 
 DINNER. 
 [Samplf, changed daily.] 
 
 SOUP. 
 Macaroni. 
 
 Beef. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Boiled Cod. 
 
 ROAST. 
 Chicken. 
 
 Lamb. 
 
 ENTR EKS. 
 
 Beef a la mode. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Boiled potatoes. Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Lima Beans. Turnips. Hominy. 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 Steamed Apple Pudding. 
 Apples. Oranges. 
 
 (158) 
 
 In addition to the regular table d'hote 
 there is an order list a la carte, comprising 
 all the luxuries of a first-class restaurant. 
 From this anything will be served at any 
 meal for a reasonable extra charge; all the 
 bills are settled thrice a year at the conclu- 
 sion of each term. Th^ order list is a most 
 wise provision, for, while it enables one to 
 entertain a friend in an eminently satis- 
 factory manner, it causes the luxuriously 
 inclined to lower the price of living to the 
 more economical in other words, if the 
 restaurant makes a pro.'it it lessens the 
 price of board to all. 
 
 Breakfast is served from 7.30 to 8.30, 
 with a table for orders only until 10 a. m. ; 
 lunch occupies the hour between 12.30 and 
 1.30, and the dinner hour is from 4.30 to 
 5.30 in winter and half an hour later in 
 summer. It will be observed that the late- 
 ness of the dinner hour gives the college 
 athletes a fine hygienic opportunity to 
 exercise on something other than a full 
 stomach. 
 
 The salaried officers are the steward, 
 assistant steward and headwaiter. Under 
 them are eight cooks, sixty waiters and 
 twenty-five other servants. The number 
 of members at present, six hundred and 
 sixty. As might be imagined that number 
 of healthy men are heartier eaters than the 
 average patrons and matrons of hotels. 
 There are stowed away daily in the cavern- 
 ous aggregate collegiate maw one hundred 
 and seventy gallons of milk and five bush- 
 els of apples, besides about three hundred 
 pies. It is humiliating to confess that all 
 the wealth of Cambridge intellect cannot 
 educate the American youth above pie, 
 but the fac4 must remain. 
 
 The steward and auditor make their 
 statements every two months. The ap- 
 pended copy of these sheets for the months 
 of January and February will give per- 
 haps a clearer insight than mere words 
 into the financial workings of this emi- 
 nently succesful co-operative organization:
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 159 
 
 DR. 
 
 Bills paid (less water bill) ............ $19,675.61 
 
 Water charge ....................... 48.87 
 
 Interest on debt .................. ...... 539-42 
 
 Interest on advances ................... i'3-77 
 
 Reduction of debt ...................... 333-34 
 
 Insurance .............................. 50.00 
 
 Crockery assessment .................. 200.40 
 
 Allowance for absence, etc ............ 544-2 
 
 Stock on hand (Jan. i) ................. 2,300.59 
 
 $24,155.00 
 CR. 
 Stock on hand (March :) .............. $^,533.57 
 
 Sale of grease .......................... 317-9' 
 
 " swill ........................... 68.87 
 
 bones ........................... 67.86 
 
 " cold food, etc .................. 198.96 
 
 Gas and coal for Saunders" Theatre... 53-95 
 Extras ordered ........................ 1,519.95 
 
 Crockery charged to surplus ........... 57-71 
 
 Balance ............................... i9i337-32 
 
 $24,155.90 
 
 Dividing this balance of $19,337.32 by 
 5,010, the number of weeks, or students, 
 gives $3.86; adding head money, 10 cents, 
 gives $3 96, or say $4.00 as the cost of 
 board during January and February. An 
 analysis of this charge of $3.96 gives the 
 
 following result: 
 
 Jan. and Feb. Per week. 
 
 Provisions ................ $12,413.30 $2.47 J 
 
 Service ..................... 3.547-91 7* 
 
 Coal ....................... 400.48 08 
 
 Water ...................... 48.57 01 
 
 Gas ........................ 365.30 Vj% 
 
 Breakage ................... 200.40 04 
 
 Interest .................... 653.19 13% 
 
 Reduction of debt .......... 333-34 07 
 
 Repairs .................... 211.21 04 
 
 Allowance for absence ..... 544- 20 >oj 
 
 Miscellaneous .............. 219.42 04 
 
 $19,337-32 $3-86 
 Head money ........................ 10 
 
 The head money, let me briefly explain, 
 is given to the steward when the average 
 weekly amount is small as it enlarges the 
 head money is reduced virtually giving 
 him a bonus for economy. 
 
 STEWARDING AT VASSAR COLLEGE. 
 
 " We have no patience with those jour- 
 nals which indulge in ungallant remarks 
 and ribald laughter over the annual state- 
 ment of what the sweet Vassar girls have 
 been eating during the school year. The 
 figures presented by the board of trustees 
 grow more and more serious year by year, 
 and the statistics for 1886-87, now at hand, 
 are simply appalling. To begin with, the 
 dear, delicate creatures consumed 230 bar- 
 rels of flour. Their small white teeth 
 
 opened and closed upon 100,000 buckwheat 
 cakes, 10,000 bananas, 30,000 oranges and 
 lemons, and 32,000 clams. They further 
 diminished the resources of the country by 
 swallowing 84,000 pounds of fresh meats, 
 8,000 pounds of smoked meais, nearly 5,000 
 pounds of turkeys, over 4,000 pounds of 
 chickens, nearly as many of fish, 141 gal- 
 lons of oysters, 14,000 pounds of butter, 
 95,000 quarts of milk, 25,000 pounds of 
 sugar (whence their unusual sweetness), 
 and 1,000 bushels of potatoes. Add to this 
 tea and coffee, condiments, fruits, vege- 
 tables, sweet- meats, and surreptitious 
 luncheons, and the total becomes positively 
 colossal. If this rate of consumptions 
 increases, or even continues, it will be 
 expedient to have the daily food purchases 
 of Vassar included in the market reports 
 of the country for the sake of their effect 
 upon prices." 
 
 STEWARDING AT WINDSOR CASTLE. 
 
 "The holidays bring a wealth of work for 
 the cooks at Windsor. The kitchen, on 
 the north side of the castle, is fitted elabo- 
 rately enough to delight the heart even of 
 a Careme. The apartment is nearly fifty 
 feet in height, and has an enormous fire at 
 either end, with a system of spits after the 
 fashion of university kitchens. As an 
 ordinary staff there are the chef de cuisine, 
 two master cooks, two yeomen of the 
 month, two roasting cooks, two larderers, 
 five scourers, one steam man and three 
 kitchen maids, besides apprentices and 
 serving men. The number of dinners 
 that can be cooked in this kitchen is 
 simply marvelous. Every detail of the 
 arrangements is worked out with the 
 greatest of care, the dishes being handed 
 straight to the footmen from the cooks, 
 and by them conveyed to the various 
 rooms." 
 
 STEWARDING AT A PENITENTIARY. 
 
 " The provisions required for the dinner 
 given, the convicts at Joliet, 111., on 
 Thanksgiving were 1,700 pounds of 
 dressed turkey, 60 gallons of turkey dress-
 
 160 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 Ing, 80 gallons of gravy, 30 bushels of 
 potatoes, 6 barrels ot flour, 5 bushels of 
 onions. 200 gallons of coffee, 16 gallons of 
 milk, 85 pounds of sugar, 40 pounds of 
 English currants, 120 pounds of butter, 30 
 gallons of syrup, 15 barrels of apples, 3,200 
 cigars. Each of the married gaurds was 
 given a turkey." 
 
 STEAMSHIP STEWARDING. 
 
 "The Atlantic steamship City of New 
 York is commanded by Capt. Frederick 
 Watkins, and his right hand man, the chief 
 officer, is S. F. Barff. To help these two 
 to navigate the ship six deck officers are 
 provided, and three of them are constantly 
 on deck when at sea. In addition to these, 
 in what may be called the department of 
 seamen, there is a boatswain and his mate 
 and 36 sailors, of whom 12 men are called 
 quartermasters, who are detailed to steer 
 the ship and stand on lookout. 
 
 " Mr. McLeod, the chief steward, is as- 
 sisted by Mr. Findlow, formerly steward of 
 Jay Gould's yacht Atalanta, and by 146 
 other people, of whom seven are women 
 and eight are boys in their teens, called 
 bell boys. Mrs. Nichol is the chief stew- 
 ardess, and four women help her in the 
 first cabin. The second cabin and the 
 steerage have one stewardess each. Of 
 the other people in this department 36 are 
 table waiters, 16 are bedroom stewards 
 and attend to keeping staterooms in order, 
 10 are occupied in the pantry, 16 are cooks, 
 6 are porters, 5 are messroom stewards 
 and wait on the officers, 14 are in the 
 second cabin, 16 are in the steerage, 4 are 
 bakers, three are butchers, and 5 are store- 
 keepers, and this term includes the barten- 
 ders and the men in immediate charge of 
 the rooms where provisions, etc., are kept. 
 
 " There is also a ship's carpenter, who is 
 generally as handy aloft as with the saw 
 and adze. In charge of the machinery are 
 a chief engineer, Mr. McDaugall, and 27 
 assistant engineers, besides 2 electricians 
 and their 3 assistants, who look after the 
 electric lights; 3 donkey men, 31 lead- 
 Ing firemen, 54 firemen, 63 trimmers, and 
 
 one blacksmith. The donkey men are 
 foremen in charge of the boilers; the 
 leading firemen are also called greasers, 
 and it is their duty to keep the machinery 
 oiled and cleaned. The 54 firemen shovel 
 coal into the furnaces and se that it is 
 spread just right to burn as hot as possible, 
 and when the furnace needs cleaning they 
 do the work. The trimmers shovel the coal 
 from the bunkers into the stoke hole. 
 
 "While this completes the list of the 
 three great departments into which a ship's 
 company is divided, there is yet a purser, 
 who is a keeper of accounts, besides 
 haying a lot of other important duties to 
 attend to, and the ship's surgeon, who has 
 one assistant. The number of stewards 
 carried varies with the passenger traffic. 
 The total number of crew of the City of 
 New York when she sailed was, according 
 to the purser, 394. 
 
 " Few persons are aware of the extensive 
 nature of the victualling on board the 
 great ocean steamers. Each vessel is provi- 
 sioned as follows for the round voyage for 
 passengers and crew: 3,500 Ibs. of butter, 
 3,000 hams, 1,600 Ibs. of biscuits, exclusive 
 of those supplied for the crew; 8,000 Ibs. of 
 grapes, almonds, figs, and other dessert 
 fruits; 1,500 Ibs. of jams and jellies; tinned 
 meats, 6,000 Ibs.; dried beans, 3,000 Ibs.; 
 rice, 3,000 Ibs. ; onions, 5,000 Ibs. ; potatoes, 
 40 tons; flour, 300 barrels; and eggs, 1,200 
 dozen. Fresh vegetables, dead meat and 
 live bullocks, sheep, pigs, geese, turkeys, 
 ducks, fowls, fish, and casual game are 
 generally supplied at each port, so that 
 It is difficult to estimate them. Probably 
 two dozen bullocks and 60 sheep would be 
 a fair average for the whole voyage, and 
 the rest may be inferred in proportion. 
 During the summer months, when travell- 
 ing is heavy, 25 fowls are often used in 
 soup for a single dinner. 
 
 " The bar on an ocean vessel is one of 
 the most profitable features of the ship, 
 and it has been said that $5,000 has fre- 
 quently been cleared on one voyage by a 
 first-class steamer in the busy season. The 
 possibilities in this direction may be judged
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 161 
 
 from the fact that the Etruria puts on 
 board at Liverpool for the round voyage 
 1,100 bottles of champagne, 850 bottles of 
 claret, 6,000 bottles of ale, 2,500 bottles of 
 porter, 4,500 bottles of mineral water and 
 650 bottles of various spirits, white the 
 annual consumption of the Cunard Line is 
 as follows: 8,030 quarts and 17,613 pints of 
 champagne, 13,941 quarts and 7,310 pints of 
 claret, with 9,200 bottles of other wines, 
 489,344 bottles of ale and porter, 174,921 
 bottles of mineral waters, 34,000 bottles of 
 spirits, 34,360 pounds of tobacco, 63,340 
 cigars and 56,875 cigarettes. 
 
 THE PURCHASING STEWARD OF A LARGE 
 HOTEL. 
 
 The following was one day's marketing, 
 bought before and about sunrise, for the 
 Fifth Avenue Hotel, New York; a fair 
 example of the daily purchases, making 
 allowance for fluctuations of business at 
 different seasons: 
 
 8 loins beef. 
 
 4 ribs beef. 
 
 2 hips beef. 
 
 1 rump corned beef. 
 7 calves' heads. 
 
 88 pounds veal. 
 
 2 old turkeys. 
 
 20 young turkeys. 
 
 57 pounds chickens. 
 
 55 pounds lobsters. 
 
 23 pounds bluefish. 
 
 55 pounds Spanish mackerel. 
 
 10 barrels potatoes. 
 
 2 barrels sweet potatoes. 
 
 3 barrels cabbage. 
 
 i Yt barrels spinach. 
 
 i barrel cooking apples. 
 
 93 pounds grapes. 
 
 4 legs mutton. 
 
 6 mutton racks. 
 12 racks lamb. 
 
 1 lamb. 
 
 40 kidneys. 
 
 7 doz. sweetbreads. 
 
 2 pairs mongrel ducks 
 2 doz. woodcocks. 
 
 2 doz. partridges. 
 
 20 pounds sea bass. 
 
 29 pounds soles. 
 
 28 pounds salmon. 
 
 \% bags Lima beans. 
 
 i bushel beets. 
 
 4 boxes tomatoes. 
 
 325 ears corn. 
 
 4^ doz. bunches celery. * 
 
 i doz. egg plants. 
 
 1 dozen cucumbers. 
 
 2 boxes lemons. 
 
 Parsley, mint and soup vegetables. 
 
 All supplies brought to basement and 
 carefully weighed before putting away. 
 Groceries bought monthly, except coffee 
 and tea which are procured whenever an 
 opportunity for a good bargain is offered. 
 
 THE AMERICAN GAME LIST. 
 
 For nearly thirty years an annual game 
 dinner has been given by Mr. John B. 
 Drake, proprietor of the Grand Pacific 
 Hotel, Chicago. The number of guests is 
 usually 500, and they are attended at table 
 by 100 waiters. For weeks and even 
 months before the event measures are put 
 in operation to get together every possible 
 species of game, the result being as is 
 shown in the subjoined bill of fare, which 
 is a very good game list for stewards and 
 restaurateurs to consult for available kinds. 
 This occurred a few years back, when elk 
 and buffalo were still obtainable; the list is 
 slightly more voluminous than more re- 
 cent ones, and the more useful for refer- 
 ence to so many kinds. 
 
 "To name the people present would be 
 only to give a list of the most prominent 
 and the wealthiest of Chicago's citizens 
 and of the distinguished guests now stop- 
 ping at this hotel:" 
 
 Blue Point Oysters in Shell 
 
 SOUP. 
 Consomm6 de Vollaile au Praire Game 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Broiled Whitefish Baked Red Snappei 
 
 BOILED. 
 
 Ham of Black Rear Wild Turkey 
 
 Leg of Mountain *heep Buffalo Tongue. 
 
 Venison Tongue
 
 162 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 ROAST, 
 Saddle of Mountain sheep Leg of Black Tail Deer 
 
 Loin of Buffa o Leg of Elk 
 
 Saddle of Antelope Coon Opossum 
 
 Loin of Venison Jack Rabbit Mountain Bison 
 
 Wild Turkey Pin Tail Grouse Ruffled Grouse 
 
 Virginia Partridge Golden Plover 
 
 American Woodcock Killdeer Plover 
 
 Sand Hill Crane Wilson Snipe Canada Goose 
 
 Mallard Duck Pin Tail Duck Gadwall Duck 
 
 American Widgeon Blue-winged Teal 
 
 Green-winged Teal Shoveler Duck Wood Duck 
 
 Scaup Duck Red Head Duck Ruddy Duck 
 
 vVoodchuck Canvas-back Duck 
 
 Buffle-Head Duck Cormorant Duck Dusky Duck 
 
 Brant Quail Red Bill Merganser Duck 
 
 Carolina Dove Ring-necked Duck 
 
 Hooded Merganser Duck Spruce Grouse 
 
 American Coot Long Tail Duck Partridge 
 
 Red-necked Grebe Prairie Chicken Pheasant 
 
 Butter-Ball Duck 
 
 HUNTERS HOME ON THE RANCH. 
 
 BROILED. 
 Red-winged Starling Reed Bird Gray Snipe 
 
 Blue- winged Teal Fox Squirrel 
 
 Gray Squirrel Black Squirrel Grav Rabbit 
 
 Jack Snipe Golden Plover Partridge Quail 
 
 Least Sandpiper Butter-Ball Duck 
 Prairie Chicken Pheasant Dunlin Sandpiper 
 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes Mash d Potatoes 
 
 Sweet Corn Green Peas Celery Plain Potatoes 
 
 Stewed Tomatoes 
 
 ORNAMENTAL DISHES. 
 Pyramid of Game, en Bellevue 
 
 Red-winged Starling, au Natural 
 Aspic of Birds, a la Royale 
 
 Pattie of Liver, sur Socle 
 
 Boned Quail in Plumage 
 Galantine of Turkey, with Jelly 
 
 Pin -Tail Grouse, in. Feathers 
 
 Boned Snipe, with Truffles 
 Shrimp Salad 
 
 THE TWO PETS. 
 
 ENTREES. 
 Buffalo Steak, Mushroom Sauce 
 
 Stuffed Venison, Hunter Style 
 Salmi of Grouse, Port Wine Sauce 
 
 Squirrel, Braise, Sauce Diable 
 Deer's Tongues, Boule, Caper Sauce 
 
 Frogs, fried, Camp Style 
 
 Pheasant, larded, aux Champignons 
 
 English Hare, with Dumplings 
 
 Charlotte Russe Chocolate Eclairs 
 
 Chocolate a la Crfime 
 
 Chantilly Cream, a la Printaniere 
 
 Bonbons, assorted Fancy Cake Nougat Pyramids 
 
 SONG. 
 
 "The Wanderer's Return," ... Abt. 
 By the Blaney Quartette. 
 
 Apples Oranges Pears California Grapes 
 
 Concord Grapes Catawba Grapes Nuts Figs 
 
 Raisins Vanilla Ice Cream Pineapple Sorbet 
 
 Sage Cheese English Cheese Coffee 
 
 " The Gay Pilgrim," 
 
 SONG. 
 
 Mangold. 
 
 LUNCH FOR 5,6OO PEOPLE. 
 
 " Mr. William H. Somers, proprietor of 
 the West Shore restaurant at Syracuse, 
 
 was called on Sunday last to cater to the 
 appetites of 5,600 hungry travelers, en route 
 to the Odd Fellows' meeting at Boston. 
 They arrived in detachments of two to five 
 hundred during the afternoon at intervals 
 of half an hour, and were all promptly 
 cared for. A local paper says that 'Mr. 
 Somers, in anticipation of the event, had 
 ordered the waiters and cooks all along 
 the line of the West Shore to report for 
 duty here. He had 225 people under his 
 command, and so perfect were the arrange- 
 ments that all moved like clock work. The 
 service of a hot dinner was out of the 
 question, but the tables were neatly spread 
 with dainty white cloths and set with un- 
 impeachable knives, forks and crockery, 
 delicately cut, but substantial slices of cold 
 meats, together with the usual accompani- 
 ment of bread and butter, besides fruit, 
 tea and coffee. The stock of eatables con- 
 sisted of 2,000 pounds of beef, 1,500 pounds 
 of chicken, 2,000 pounds of ham, i,ooo 
 quarts of milk, 2,000 loaves of bread, 500 
 pounds of fresh pork, four barrels of lamb 
 tongue, 3,000 sandwiches, and 2,000 pounds 
 of grapes.' About 1,000 bottles of beer 
 and spirits and $125 worth of cigars were 
 sold." 
 
 THE AMERICAN CLAM BAKE. 
 
 "Mr. Sol. Sayles, the well-known butcher 
 of Sixth avenue, gave his annual clam bake 
 to his sixty odd employe's at his country 
 seat, Eleanor Villa, beautifully situated at 
 Long View, on the Raritan River, N. J., 
 on Sunday afternoon. A special train of the 
 New Jersey Central Railroad conveyed the 
 guests, who numbered, including the em- 
 ploye's, no persons, to Plainfield, the near- 
 est station, where they were met by car- 
 riages in waiting and conveyed over a de- 
 lightful road to the grove in which the feast 
 was prepared under the guiding hands of J. 
 C. Shields, who, as the steward of the Glen 
 Island restaurants for several seasons, has 
 justly earned a reputation as a constructor 
 of toothsome Rhode Island clambakes. At 
 4 o'clock the feast was ready, and ample 
 justice was done to it under the appetizing
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 163 
 
 zest imparted by the long drive in the brac- 
 ing air. The bake was composed of one 
 thousand hard and^soft clame, 50 lobsters, 
 150 ears of corn, 50 bluefish, 50 white bass, 
 2 bushels of white potatoes, 2 buseels of 
 sweet potatoes, 75 spring chickens, 150 
 hard crabs, 100 pounds of tripe and 75 
 watermelons. Flanking this steaming 
 pyramid were 200 bottles of iced cham- 
 pagne. When the feast was concluded 
 Patch photographed the entire group on 
 the lawn." 
 
 HOW IT IS DONE. 
 
 " A hole, some four feet deep, is dug in 
 the ground, and smooth flat stones are 
 laid on the bottom ; on these a fire of wood 
 is kindled, which is kept up half a day or 
 more, until the stones are of a red heat. 
 Then several bushels of clams in the shell 
 are poured over the stones, and on these 
 are laid a layer of seaweed. Indian corn 
 in the ear is placed, in quantity propotion- 
 ate to the number of bushels of clams, 
 upon this; then follows another layer of 
 seaweed, and more clams, then a few dozen 
 chickens prepared for cooking; then 
 another layer of seaweed and more clams ; 
 potatoes in their jackets come next, 
 although some put the potatoes in an 
 anterior stratum, and more clams. Any 
 game in season may be added, and the top 
 layer is always seaweed, preceded by 
 more clams. In Rhode Island turkeys 
 are deemed the essential layer late in the 
 autumn. The heat evolved from the 
 stones and retained from the fire in the 
 sides of the pit, and the steam rising from 
 the seaweed, serve to slowly and thor- 
 oughly cook each and every layer in about 
 two hours, and then they are deftly taken 
 out and served on long tables, with much 
 care and neatness. The choicest wines 
 accompany the feast, although cider is the 
 common drink of the people. The service 
 is scarcely in regular courses, as the tooth- 
 someness of the repast lies in the fact that 
 the juices are so assimilated and interpene- 
 trated by the mode of cooking that the 
 guests desire not to stand upon the order 
 
 of their eating, but take in thankfulness 
 that which is set before them, with one 
 proviso that the supply of clams be 
 endless." 
 
 THE AMERICAN BARBECUE. 
 
 It is commonly called roasting oxen or 
 other animals whole; the word itself is 
 French barb-a-que from head to tail but 
 in practice so many disappointments occur 
 through the meat coming from the bars 
 burnt to a coal on the outside and too raw 
 to be eaten inside, that those who have had 
 experience take care to roast only quarters 
 or sides. The way it is done is the same 
 in the beginning as the clam bake; a trench 
 is dug in the ground and a wood fire made 
 in it. When it has burned about six hours 
 and the pit bottom is covered with a bed 
 of glowing coals and red hot rocks, instead 
 of the covering up in sea weed as at the 
 clam bake, some bars of iron are laid across 
 the pit, making a monster grid-iron. Per- 
 haps the iron can be obtained from the 
 village blacksmith, or some old rails from 
 the railroad, or two or three rails and small 
 iron for cross-bars. Whole sheep and 
 lambs can be roasted very well over such 
 a bed of coals, also small pigs, chickens, 
 'possums, turkeys and such small animals, 
 but oxen are better cut in quarters, as in 
 that case it does not take more than an 
 hour or two to cook them sufficiently. Oc- 
 casions requiring a resort to the barbecue 
 are constantly arising, either political or 
 otherwise, for anniversaries, camp meet- 
 ings, celebrations of various descriptions, 
 and it only needs the trench to be dug the 
 longer to give cooking facilities in the 
 meat line to an indefinite extent ; the bread 
 is easily baked at a distance and hauled to 
 the spot. But the great trouble experienced 
 generally is to get the provisions divided 
 among the people after the cooking; if this 
 is not well managed two or three persons 
 will drag a quarter of beef from the fire 
 into the dust of the ground, hack off their 
 few slices and leave the rest in such a con- 
 dition that it is almost if not quite lost. 
 Some well intended barbecues for army
 
 164 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 reunions and monument raisings and the 
 like have become hideous failures through 
 such want of management. There must 
 be a fence around the barbecue fire and 
 another around the benches to eat from, 
 and proper arrangements made for cutting 
 up and passing around the meat after it is 
 cooked, if suffering to the invited multitude 
 and life-long reproach to the providers are 
 to be averted. 
 
 THE IMPROVED BARBECUE. 
 
 Barbecues have taken place in late years 
 where oxen were actually roasted whole and 
 made superior as roasted meat to the prod- 
 uct of city kitchens by fastening the entire 
 carcasses on iron spits on frames with band- 
 wheel fixtures, and revolving them horizon- 
 tally by means of a small portable steam 
 engine over the heated pits of coals until 
 done. In one case recorded when the ox 
 was considered sufficiently done it was 
 moved by means of a crane to a table where 
 six skillful carvers were ready with extra 
 large knives and forks, and cut it up and 
 distributed it in a proper manner. 
 
 THE PRIMITIVE BARBECUE. 
 
 'Messrs. Cody and Salsbury, of the 
 American Wild West Show, invited a num- 
 ber of their friends recently to an Indian 
 4 rib-roast ' breakfast, at which the principal 
 item that figured upon the 'bill of rations' 
 consisted of ribs of beef roasted, served, 
 and partaken of in the primitive Indian 
 style as follows: A hole is dug in the 
 ground, a wood- fire lighted therein, and 
 over this is suspended from a tripod the 
 huge sides of beef ; these are kept moving 
 by a squaw or scout for three-quarters of 
 an hour, at the end of which time the joint 
 is sufficiently done, and resembles a bunch 
 of ' devilled bones.' Each ' brave ' squatted 
 upon the ground on a carpet of loose straw 
 was provided with a sharp stake stuck into 
 the earth in front of him, and a goodly por- 
 tion of the roasted ribs, which, when not 
 engaged in biting the meat off the bone 
 held in h s hands, he stuck on to the sharp 
 stake, which thus took the place of a plate. 
 
 He then licked his fingers clean, and wiped 
 them dry on his hair. The majority of the 
 guests adopted the Indian manner of eating 
 the meat bar the licking-finger perform- 
 ance, as a substitute for which table-napkins, 
 etc., were provided. The meat was said to 
 be so toothsome, that an eminent English 
 legislator present expressed his opinion 
 thereon to the effect that ' civilization was 
 a well-intentioned mistake.' The rest of 
 the menu was American, viz., grub-steak, 
 salmon, roast-beef, roast-mutton, ham, 
 tongue, stewed chicken, lobster salad, 
 American hominy and milk, corn, potatoes, 
 cocoanut-pie, apple-pie,\Vild West pudding, 
 American pop-corn and peanuts, which, 
 with other etceteras, ended this unusual 
 form of entertainment." 
 
 AN ELECTRIC LIGHTED BARBECUE. 
 
 "Over four thousand persons, from the 
 neighborhoods and towns of both High 
 and Low Harrogate, assembled and took 
 part in the proceedings, which were, from 
 beginning to end, conducted in a successful 
 manner. To commence with, a splendid 
 red and white four-year-old ox was pur- 
 chased by Mr. Samson Fox, and fed by Mr. 
 Stephen Bradley in a field adjoining his 
 residence. Here it became an object of much 
 curiosity and comment amongst the town- 
 folks, who watched it graze with eager in- 
 terest in anticipation of roast beef ad libitum 
 in the near future. Upon the eventful day, 
 Mr. M. Church, chef at the Queen Hotel, 
 superintended the cookery arrangements, 
 and succeeded to perfection; for, as Mr. 
 Fox (the spirited gentleman who liberally 
 came forward to defray all expenses) after- 
 wards said, ' the ox had been as well roasted 
 as though it had been done in separate 
 pieces.' 
 
 The animal was slaughtered, dressed, and 
 duly fixed upon the spit of solid iron, re- 
 volved by steam power at the rate of about 
 three limes a minute. Two huge fires were 
 employed one stationary, and the other 
 movable. A barricade was erected around 
 the ox, and, although it was not ultimately 
 called into use, a suitable covering was
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 165 
 
 provided to guard against inauspicious 
 weather. A powerful dynamo illuminated 
 the whole scene with the electric light dur- 
 ing the hours of dusk and night, and sounds 
 of revelry (music and dancing) contributed 
 to the enjoyment of all, whilst the ox was 
 kept constantly revolving throughout the 
 night. 
 
 At noon on TuesJay, the 2ist June, the 
 cutting up and serving out of the animal 
 was inaugurated by the committee, .who 
 mounted a wagon placed alongside of the 
 roasted ox on its spit. Five carvers were 
 told off, and each one received a huge 
 carving knife and fork, specially made for 
 the occasion. After a brief but appropriate 
 speech from Mr. Fox, three cheers were 
 given and each carver made a primary in- 
 cision; and then followed up quickly the 
 division, presumably along the principal 
 lines of the six-and-thirty usual 'joints,' 
 and the slicing off of the tit-bits. 
 
 About 4,000 pieces of meat, buns, and 
 tickets for beer were rapidly distributed 
 amongst the guests ranged around the 
 4 festive board,' and as daylight waned the 
 dynamo once more shone forth upon a 
 scene of innocent revelry, 'where all went 
 merry as a marriage bell.' " 
 
 HOW AN OX WAS BOILED WHOLE. 
 
 "A correspondent of the Times mentions 
 an experiment, rare, if not unprecedented, 
 which was tried on Jubilee Day at Liss, a 
 village on the London and South- Western 
 Railway in Hampshire. It consisted in 
 boiling a bullock whole, in addition to one 
 roasted the evening before. A hole, dug 
 in the ground, was built over with bricks; 
 into the latter was built a tank, and into the 
 tank was lowered the carcase, placed within 
 a case formed by iron bars, to which chains 
 were attached. Pulleys from a scaffold im- 
 mediately above raised and lowered the ox, 
 of which the head and carcase were sewn 
 up separately in strong canvas. Carrots 
 were boiled with it, and potatoes enclosed 
 in bags, making gallons of rich soup. At 
 5:30 p. m. the carcase, which had been 
 boiled about seven hours, was raised from 
 
 the tank; two bands playing ' God save the 
 Queen ' and 'Rule Brittannia' on the scaf- 
 folding above. Tne meat was pronounced 
 excellent, and was certainly well cooked." 
 
 THE NUMBER, WEIGHTS AND PRICE A 
 POUND TO A PERSON. 
 
 " The energetic proprietor of the White 
 Horse Hotel, Romsey, and the Tregonwell 
 Arms, at Bournemouth, recently carried 
 out a large job in the catering line. On the 
 occasion of the great Liberal Fte at Tem- 
 plecombe, on the ist inst., he was entrusted 
 with the purveying for the Bournemouth 
 Division, consisting of some 3,000 persons, 
 each one of whom was to be supplied with 
 8 oz. meat, 8 oz. bread, and 2 oz. cheese, at 
 is. 6d. (36c.) per head. Two tents were 
 provided, and tables arranged to seat 350 
 and 550 at a time respectively; the former 
 was filled four times, and the latter thrice 
 in succession, and the whole of this large 
 assemblage was efficiently attended to by a 
 staff of seventy waiters, carvers, etc.; 1,525 
 Ibs. of cooked beef, mutton, chicken, and 
 ham, 1,525 Ibs. of bread, and 6,100 oz. of 
 cheese were consumed, the whole of the 
 viands being cut up into portions on the 
 day of the feast." 
 
 THE GOVERNMENTAL BANQUET TO 3,OOO 
 FRENCH MAYORS. 
 
 "The great gastronomic ffite held in a 
 wing of the Exhibition building on the 
 Champ de Mars, Paris, last month, July 
 1888 has been a good deal discussed in the 
 newspapers, but no authentic account of 
 the organization and service of the monster 
 feast has hitherto appeared in print. We 
 now have pleasure in supplying such 
 particulars from the pen of our valued 
 collaborater M. Suzanne, who, himself an 
 eye-witness of the banquet, has obtained 
 supplementary details from the great 
 catering firm of Potel and Chabot, who 
 were the appointed purveyors: 
 
 "A table cT honneur was reserved at one 
 end of the room for President Carnot and 
 his numerous entourage, composed of 340 
 persons, and including members of the
 
 166 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 Government and the most notable repre- 
 sentatives of art, science, industry, and 
 commerce. The two services were also 
 represented by officers of the highest grade 
 in uniform, and at the other end of the 
 room, facing the President, and mounted 
 on a raised platform, played the unrivalled 
 band of the Garde Rdpublicaine, whose 
 melodious strains served to pleasantly 
 mask the unavoidable rattle of the plates 
 and the simultaneous plying of 3,ooo knives 
 and forks. Besides the table cTlionneur, 
 there were fifty-six minor tables symme- 
 trically arranged in rows of seven. These 
 tables were isolated from each other by a 
 wide space so as to avoid incumbrance, 
 and to allow free circulations to the servi- 
 tors. Corresponding to each row of seven 
 tables was a broad passage leading to a 
 kitchen, where ten cooks were at work. 
 Consequently there were in all eight kit- 
 chens and eighty cooks employed. 
 
 " Each kitchen was fitted up with a 
 range, a complete set of steam cooking 
 apparatus, and eight or ten charcoal stoves ; 
 but I remarked that there were no gas 
 appliances of any kind. Each table was 
 1 xid for fifty persons, and bore a central 
 placard, duly numbered, and indicating the 
 names of the respective provinces, so that 
 the representatives of each could group 
 themselves together. 
 
 " The mayors, who had been previously 
 supplied with a 'miniature plan of the 
 dining-saloon containing detailed informa- 
 tion, experienced no difficulty whatever in 
 finding the places allotted to them. As 
 the clock struck seven, the entire company 
 were seated, awaiting the arrival of Presi- 
 dent Carnot. In front of each table stood 
 a headwaiter, whose mission it was to 
 superintend and survey the service of the 
 section confided to his charge. In all, 
 there were 350 waiters on duty. 
 
 " Upon the arrival of the President and 
 his ministers, the band struck up the Na- 
 tional Anthem, and simultaneously a sig- 
 nal given by M. Lasson, when the eight 
 doors leading to the kitchens were thrown 
 open as if by magic, and one hundred 
 
 "garcons" marched into the dining-room, 
 each carrying a tureen of potage a la St. 
 Germaine. A few minutes later, this body 
 of waiters made their exit with the empty 
 tureens. 
 
 " After the soup, according to French 
 fashion, " hors d'ceuvres " were handed 
 round. The relish materials consisted of 
 350 bundles of radishes, 75 Ibs. of Lyons 
 sausages, 400 boxes of sardines, 125 Ibs. of 
 prawns, 50 Ibs. of oliv s, and 40 Ibs. of 
 butter, in pats. The soup was " relieved " 
 by 1 20 dishes of trout in jelly, with French 
 sauce, the latter being a mayonnaise in 
 which a pure*e of lobster coral and some 
 whipped cream had been mixed. 
 
 "The hot dishes followed: 75 braised 
 fillets of beef, which were larded and garn- 
 ished with stewed carrots, no fewer than 
 300 bunches of that vegetable having been 
 prepared for the purpose. The roasted 
 turkey poults, to the number of 300 were 
 also served hot. To accelerate the service, 
 they had been previously carved in the 
 kitchens, and were brought to table with 
 300 bowls of dressed salad; 80 galantines 
 truffe'es, and 80 pies were afterwards 
 introduced. 
 
 TJI-E 
 
 Potage St. Gennain. 
 
 Hors d'CEuvres. 
 Truite a la Gel6e, Sauce Francaise. 
 
 Filet de Boeuf Parisienne. 
 
 Galantines de Poulardes Iruffees. 
 
 Dindonneaux Nouveaux rdtis. 
 
 Pates de Foies Gras. 
 
 Salade. 
 Petits Pois a la Fermiere. 
 
 Bombe glac^e. 
 Gateaux Varies. 
 Baba au Rhum. 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 VINS. 
 
 Mad^re Vieux. 
 
 Bordeaux Grave. 
 
 Beaune. Champagne. 
 
 Cafe. 
 
 "Then came the entrements: 300 dishes 
 of stewed peas, babas au rhum, bombes 
 glacees, and numberless dishes of all kinds 
 of pastry. The dessert was composed of 
 all the fruits in season, such as straw- 
 berries, cherries, apricots, grapes, and 
 pineapples. There were also an infinite 
 number of compOtes, and endless pyramids 
 of biscuits and bonbons. A b ttle of claret
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 167 
 
 was placed before each guest; but inde- 
 pendently of that, champagne, madeira, 
 choice burgundy, and liqueurs were served 
 with the second course. Three thousand 
 seven hundred bottles of wine were con- 
 sumed at this gigantic banquet. The 3,000 
 cups of coffee distributed after the repast 
 were also prepared by the contractors, who 
 had hired two immense coffee-making ap- 
 paratuses, such as those used for army 
 campaigning purposes, and known as 
 " percolateurs." With the coffee, liqueurs 
 and spirits were introduced, the number of 
 bottles emptied being as follows: 125 bott- 
 les of cognac brandy, 75 bottles of kirsch- 
 wasser, and 70 bottles of chartreuse. 
 
 "The description of this gastronomic 
 function would not be complete without 
 some mention of the table utensils used 
 for the occasion. These consisted of 27,- 
 ooo plates, 15,000 wine-glasses and tumb- 
 lers, and 12,000 sets of knives and forks. 
 
 "The orderly and efficient manner in 
 which the whole affair was conducted 
 reflects the greatest credit on the caterers, 
 who, needless to say, had to encounter 
 numberless difficulties. Thanks to their 
 skilled experience and well-considered 
 arrangements, all obstacles were overcome, 
 and the fame of Potel and Chabot as mam- 
 moth foodproviders not only upheld, but 
 distinctly enhanced. London Caterer. 
 
 A RAILWAY EATING HOUSE IN SWEDEN. 
 
 "The station at Katrineholm I shall 
 never forget, nor the dinner that I had 
 there. I was exceedingly hungry, having 
 started early in the morning, and when the 
 guard cried 'tjugo for middag' (twenty 
 minutes for dinner) I lost no time in mak- 
 ing preparations. On entering the matsal 
 (dining room) I for a moment forgot my 
 hunger, everything was so different from 
 what I had before seen. In the center 
 of the room was a long table, with a snowy 
 white table-cloth, upon which was seen 
 the most tempting food imaginable, all 
 smoking hot, having just been taken from 
 the oven. At one end of the table were 
 two tureens, one of soup and the other 
 
 of buttermilk, the last a favorite dish in 
 Sweden and of which many partake before 
 their soup. Beside these tureens were piles 
 of warm plates, knifes, forks, spoons and 
 napkins. Each traveler who was desirous 
 of dining helped himself or herself to a 
 plate, etc., walking around the table, se- 
 lected what best pleased the appetite, then 
 seated himself at one of the small tables 
 around the room. After soup came fish, 
 then roast beef, lamb, chicken, vegetables, 
 jellies, puddings, bread, butter, cream and 
 coffee. One could eat all he wished, help 
 himself a second time if he desired to, and 
 the price of a dinner, five or six courses, 
 was only i krona and 50 6're, about 40 cents. 
 Those who did not wish a full dinner 
 helped themselves from the sm8rgdsbord } 
 or to a cup of coffee from a coffee urn. 
 There were no waiters running to and fro, 
 no crashing of dishes, no noise or confu- 
 sion in any way. Each person went to the 
 desk and paid for what he had eaten, either 
 the dinner from the smorgasbord, from 
 which a good meal of cold meats, bread 
 and butter, for 50 Ore (13 cents), or for a 
 lunch of coffee and cakes. The word of 
 each person was taken, and there were no 
 waiters to watch to see what each had 
 eaten. I never enjoyed a dinner more, and 
 I thought how pleasant it would be to have 
 similar restaurants in America." Foreign 
 Letter. 
 
 BREAKFAST FOR IO,5OO PEOPLE. 
 
 "The High Sheriff of Lancaster, Mr. 
 James Williamson, of Ryelands, in that 
 county, has marked his assumption of office 
 by a profuse and princely hospitality. On 
 the nth of last month, the date of his state 
 entry into Lancaster, he entertained 10,500 
 people of the town and neighborhood at a 
 public breakfast in his park at Ryelands. 
 Mr. Williamson who we may note en 
 passant is a commercial millionnaire being 
 a native of Lancaster, determined that his 
 open-house hospitality should be dispensed 
 by a local caterer, and accordingly entrusted 
 the monster job to Mr. S. Ducksbury, of 
 the County and King's Arms Hotel. From
 
 168 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 all we can hear, that gentleman rose to the 
 occasion, and carried the whole affair 
 through in a most satisfactory manner. As 
 showing the extent and magnitude of the 
 arrangements, we may mention that the 
 crockery alone weighed in the aggregate 
 thirteen and a half tons, and numbered 
 13,000 plates, with glasses and dishes in 
 proportion, two glasses being placed to each 
 guest. The cutlery, which weighed over 
 two tons, was supplied, we learn, by Messrs. 
 Jennison, of the Belle Vue Gardens, Man- 
 chester. To superintend the cooking ar- 
 rangements, Mr. Ducksbury hired the ser- 
 vices of two competent chefs, the Brothers 
 Mackenzie, of Liverpool, and three weeks 
 prior to the occasion they were installed in 
 Lancaster, supervising the erection of 
 special culinary plant. Large vats, heated 
 by steam coils, were provided for boiling, 
 as also a fish-steaming apparatus, capable 
 of holding thirty salmon at a time. There 
 were 200 dishes of salmon, the whole 
 'masked' with mayonnaise sauce. As the 
 meats were cooked they were stored in a 
 large shed fitted with rack shelving, which, 
 had it been placed end to end, would have 
 reached two miles. The stock from the 
 * boiled chickens, tongues and other meats, 
 together with waste, trimmings, etc., was 
 cleared away as fast as produced by the 
 poor of Lancaster. The viands comprised : 
 2,000 pounds of salmon, So rounds of beef, 
 80 pieces of pressed beef, 80 ribs of beef, So 
 galantines of veal, 100 Melton Mowbray 
 pies (8 pounds each), 100 meat pies (vari- 
 ous), 100 boiled hams, 250 tongues, 400 
 roast chickens, 200 boiled chickens, 20 
 game pies, 20 spring pies, 40 turkeys, 500 
 ducklings, 300 fruit tarts, and 250 open 
 tarts. Some 5,000 bottles of wine cham- 
 pagne, port and sherry were consumed, 
 part of the former being Pommery. The 
 waiters numbered 140, and with assistants, 
 washers and others, totalled a staff of 
 about 350. 
 
 "In order to provide the required accom- 
 tuodation for the guests five marquees were 
 erected in Ryelands Park. These tents 
 were placed in the form of a square, leav- 
 
 ing a considerable space in the centre. The 
 tables ran the length of the tents, but had 
 divisions in the centre for the accommoda- 
 tion of the waiters. The space between 
 the tents was barricaded, the public not 
 being admitted to the central enclosure. 
 At the back of each tent, and communicat- 
 ing with it, was a smaller one for service 
 purposes, and which was in immediate 
 communication with the food and wine 
 stores two tents adjoining each other and 
 occupying the centre of the enclosure. In 
 the latter a telephone communicating with 
 the County and King's Arms Hotels, so 
 that in the event of anything being unex - 
 pectedly required, it could be obtained with 
 the least possible delay. The intervening 
 space between the several tents and stores 
 was utilized for the waiters and staff of 
 women who had been engaged for washing 
 up, and for which water from the town 
 had been laid on to the enclosure, and a 
 portable steam engine fixed for heating 
 purposes. The hot water was run into 
 large tubs, so that there was an abundant 
 supply constantly available. Behind each 
 waiter's tent a knife-cleaning machine was 
 fixed with a man specially appointed to 
 work it Nothing seems to have been 
 omitted which could in any way contribute 
 to the comfort or convenience of the guests 
 and the speedy satisfaction of their wants. 
 "In the High Sheriff's marquee, devoted 
 to the local clergy, gentry and tradesmen, 
 was served a sumptuous repast, the menu 
 being as follows: 
 
 Mayonnaise of Salmon. 
 Soles en aspic. Potted Shrimps. 
 
 GROSSES PIECES. 
 
 Spring- Pies. 
 
 Rounds of Beef. Ribs of Beef. Roulades of Beef. 
 Quarters of Lamb. Galantines of Veal 
 
 Roast Chickens. Boiled Chickens. 
 
 Boned Turkeys. Hams. Tongues. 
 
 Various Meat Pies. Roast Ducks. 
 
 Melton Mowbray Pies. 
 
 Dressed Crabs. Dressed Lobsters. 
 
 Prawns en Pyramid. 
 
 Tomato Salads. 
 
 ENTREMETS SUCRES. 
 
 Fruit Tarts. Pastry, various. 
 Jellies. Custard, etc. 
 
 DESSERT.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 169 
 
 " The tents for the general body of vis- 
 itors were filled by relays, but good order 
 was maintained, and, thanks to the excellent 
 arrangements of Mr. Ducksbury (whose 
 efforts were ably seconded by his three 
 sons), the feasting of the whole 10,500 guests 
 was got through in about 2> 1 A hours. 
 
 " In these tents the menu was as follows : 
 
 POISSON. 
 Salmon. 
 
 GROSSES PIECES. 
 
 Pressed beef. Rounds of beef. 
 
 Ribs of beef. 
 
 Vaiious meat pies. 
 
 Roast chickens. Boiled chickens. 
 
 Hams. Tongues. 
 
 Quarters of lamb. 
 
 Roast duckling's. 
 
 Melton Mowbray pies. 
 
 ENTREMETS SUCRES. 
 
 Fruit tarts. Tartlets. 
 Stewed fruit, etc, 
 
 "On the conclusion of the feast, the 
 broken meat and fragments of all kind 
 were distributed among the assistant wait- 
 ers, the washers, and others. 
 
 "Needless to say, there was much effusive 
 toasting of fie High Sheriff and his family, 
 whose magnificent hospitality may be said 
 to have created a red-letter day in the annals 
 of Lancaster. Regarded as a mere catering 
 achievement this public breakfast was re- 
 markable, and that it should have passed 
 off so smoothly and successfully redounds 
 not a little to the professional credit of Mr. 
 Ducksbury, his cfiefs, and, in fact, all con- 
 cerned in the carrying out of a very big job." 
 
 CATERING AT THE MANCHESTER EXHIBI- 
 TION. 
 
 "The Manchester Exhibition refreshment 
 contract, one of the biggest ever under- 
 taken, which, it will be remembered, was 
 secured by Mr. A. Mackenzie Ross, of the 
 Cafe* Royal, Edinburgh, is now in full 
 working order. The accommodation al- 
 lowed by the Executive at first proved so 
 inadequate that five additional places have 
 now been provided, one of the new bars 
 being nearly 100 yards long. Some idea of 
 the magnitude of the contract may be seen 
 by an early visit to the culinary section, 
 where from 6 till 9:30 a. m. a constant pro- 
 
 cession of carts wait their turn to get un- 
 loaded at the various shops in the stores 
 the lorries of Messrs. Salt, the Burton 
 brewers, with hundreds of hogsheads of 
 their beer, being conspicuous among the 
 number. Of bottled beer, Messrs. Salt 
 supply on an average from 1,500 to 2,000 
 weekly. One of the most extraordinary 
 and interesting facts connected with the 
 refreshment department is the demand for 
 tea and coffee. Nightly crowds have to 
 wait their turn at the tea and coffee rooms, 
 which hold close on 7,000, and the quantity 
 gone through during a recent week amount- 
 ed to n arly \ l / z tons of tea, equal to over 
 20,000 gallons. Among the other edibles 
 which Mr. Scott, the head of the chefs, puts 
 through his hands, may be mentioned from 
 4,000 to 5,000 Ibs of butcher meat per week ; 
 1,000 head of game and poultry per day; 
 100 stone white fish besides salmon per 
 week; 300 gallons of milk and cream per 
 day; and 4,000 4-lb. loaves per day; irre- 
 spective of biscuit, fancy bread, and fruit. 
 To overtake this work, Mr. Ross has a staff 
 of over 1,100 people engaged under him." 
 
 HOW 30,OOO CHILDREN WERE FED. 
 
 "We have received from Mr. P. C. 
 Javal, of the firm of Spiers and Pond, Li- 
 mited, detailed particulars of their " general 
 scheme" for the supply of refreshments 
 to the 30,000 children who assembled in 
 Hyde^Park on Wednesday, June 22nd, to 
 celebrate her Majesty's Jubilee. So suc- 
 cessfully did the caterers carry out their 
 onerous undertaking, that Mr. Felix 
 Spiers was personally thanked by H. R. H. 
 the Prince of Wales for his share in contri- 
 buting to the succes of the fte ; Mr. Javal 
 also, whose duties held him in another 
 part of the ground, received a letter by 
 command of the Prince to the same effect. 
 That these distinctions were honestly mer- 
 ited will become evident from a glance at 
 a few of the items on record. 
 
 " To cater perfectly for such an immense 
 assembly of juveniles neccessitated special 
 arrangements, and from 6 o'clock on Mon- 
 day morning to 10 a. m. on Wednesday
 
 170 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 the woik of preparation was carried or ! 
 continuously at the central offices of the | 
 firm. 
 
 "To supply the requisite comestibles, 
 the resources of several firms were called 
 into action by Messrs. Spiers and Pond. 
 The gross quantities given are as follows: 
 27,700 meatpies, all of which were made 
 by Messrs. Spiers and Pond ; 56,00') buns, 
 provided equally by Messrs. Hill and Son, 
 of Bishopsgate Street, and Carl Fleck, of 
 Brompton Road; 27,700 cakes, made by 
 Spiers and Pond ; 27,700 oranges (selected 
 and examined to ensure perfect condition, 
 it being late in the season for this fruit), 
 supplied by Butt and Son, of High Street, 
 Kensington, and Covent Garden ; 9,000 
 gallons of lemonade and gingerade, 
 produced equally by Norrish and Culver- 
 house & Co. No less than 5 tons of ice, 
 moreover was supplied ; knives, cups, mugs, 
 paper bags etc., were of course provided in 
 thousands. 
 
 " It is scarcely necessary to observe that 
 all the refreshments were made of the best 
 materials, the meat pies being prepared 
 from the best parts of cattle slaughtered 
 upon the special premises of the catering 
 firm. After they were baked, each pie was 
 uniform in size, weight, etc., and was 
 cooled in the ice-houses of the establish- 
 ment; they were then each wrapped in 
 small grease-proof bags. These bags were 
 made up into parcels containing 200- each, 
 and put into boxes. Each of these boxes 
 in its turn was numbered to correspond 
 with the tent to which it was consigned for 
 delivery in Hyde Park. This done, the 
 boxes were ready for the wagons or vans, 
 which also bore the number of the tent they 
 were to be sent to in the park. The cake 
 was packed up and loaded in a similar 
 manner. The ten vans, one for each tent, 
 were drawn up in front of Spiers and Pond's 
 premises at six o'clock on Tuesday evening 
 to receive the boxes containing the food, as 
 well as the napery, cups, etc. It took until 
 midnight to load the conveyances. At two 
 a. m. they started in procession direct for 
 Hyde Park. To prevent any possibility of 
 
 their being looted on the way by the 
 crowds which even at that hour thronged 
 the streets looking at the illuminations, a 
 policeman escorted each van to the park, 
 where they arrived about three o'clock in 
 the morning, picking up on the route the 
 carts with the oranges from Covent Garden, 
 and from the bakers with the buns. Early 
 as the hour was, the corps of 250 waiters 
 were in readiness to receive the carts and 
 vans, which were immediately unpacked. 
 Next followed the opening of the boxes, 
 and the putting up in big paper-bags of 
 first, the bag containing the meat pie, then 
 an orange, a piece of cake, and a bun in 
 each one. When this was completed, all 
 the bags were piled up in lots of 250 upon 
 the tent-tables ready for instant distribution. 
 The lemonade and gingerade for drinking 
 was made on the spot in large hogsheads, 
 of which there were twelve apportioned to 
 each tent. Huge ladles were planted in 
 readiness to dip the liquor out into the cups 
 and mugs from which the children drank. 
 In addi'ion to all this, water-carts, lent by 
 the Office of Works and by the military 
 authorities, were attached to every tent to 
 supply pure drinking-water to those who 
 preferred it. A large block of ice was 
 placed in each hogshead to aid in keeping 
 the drinking supply cool. 
 
 "There were ten refreshment tents, 
 numbered i to 10, each 140 ft. long hy 40 
 ft. wide, and to each was apportioned a su- 
 perintendent and twenty-five waiters, rein- 
 forced by a volunteer staff of ladies and 
 gentlemen. 
 
 " Each school knew the number of the 
 tent to which it was to proceed, and, having 
 marched thither, drew up outside. Then^ 
 in their turn, the children, in batches of 
 250, proceeded into the tent and received a 
 paper-bag containing the food already de- 
 scribed, together with a cup of lemonade 
 or gingerade, as was preferred. In this 
 way the children, assigned beforehand to 
 each tent, were very soon all served. 
 Luncheons were also spread in the extra 
 tents provided for the musicians and bands- 
 men, etc.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 "The provision was quite adequate to 
 the occasion, and the "reserve" was not 
 drawn upon, so that the collected remnants 
 from the feast formed a substantial dona- 
 tion to Dr. Barnardo's Home for Destitute 
 Boys. 
 
 " We have noted the above facts as an 
 Illustration of perfect organization and 
 good management, and have pleasure in 
 placing a matter of practical value to 
 caterers as a body on permanent record. 
 London Caterer. 
 
 CATERING FOR THE MULTITUDE. 
 
 " The great popular carnival, Whitsun- 
 tide, imposes a strain upon the resources of 
 caterers which outsiders can but imper- 
 fectly realize. At the Inventions Exhibi- 
 tion, for example, Messrs. Spiers and Pond 
 were on Whit Monday expected to meet 
 the eating and drinking requirements of 
 over 73,000 people. This gigantic task was, 
 thanks to the masterly arrangements made, 
 carried out with complete success in spite 
 of pessimistic prognostications. At the 
 Crystal Palace Messrs. Bertram & Roberts 
 were prepared to " tackle " a similar 
 inrush. The general average number of 
 visitors to the Crystal Palace to be provided 
 for is 10,000, but Whit Monday is always a 
 special day, and the curious warren of 
 larders and kitchens, bakeries, groceries, 
 butche-s' shops, and wine-vaults down at 
 the back of the south transept, was for 
 days previous a very interesting scene of 
 preparation. A correspondent was per- 
 mitted to walk through the place on the 
 Saturday preceeding the great holiday, and 
 a particularly busy scene he found it. The 
 contractors were prepared for a nice little 
 tea-party of 4,000 people at one time. They 
 can seat this number at any rate perhaps 
 some at dinner and some at tea. They ex- 
 pected to brew some 5,000 gallons of tea 
 and coffee, and in one room were several 
 huge boilers and some hundreds of tins like 
 large-sized waterpots in which the beverage 
 Is run away on trucks to various parts of 
 the palace. They were providing for about 
 15,000 shilling teas, and their preparations 
 for dinner suggested nothing short of a 
 
 protracted siege about to commence. Some 
 twelve tons of meat would be required 
 and about twenty women were busily 
 employed in peeling potatoes, washing cab- 
 bages, making salads, and so forth. The 
 firm make and prepare pretty nearly 
 everything here, including various kinds 
 of aereted drinks, the water for which is 
 pumped up from an artesian well in the 
 grounds and elaborately filtered on the 
 premises. The bottling machinery is very 
 extensive, and the laundry down in this 
 queer region is fitted up with all the most 
 modern appliances, the eb iblishment 
 having in stock something like 20,000 din- 
 ner napkins and 5,000 or 6,000 table-cloths. 
 On the Saturday there were four men 
 making nothing but pork-pies, and the 
 quantities of Crystal Palace cake stowed 
 away in readiness for visitors was some- 
 thing prodigious. The ordinary staff of 
 this huge culinary establishment is about 
 500 people. On Bank Holiday those em- 
 ployed about the place in one way or 
 another was double that number." 
 
 STEWARDING FOR THE SULTAN. 
 
 "There are over six thousand persons, 
 says the Netv York Herald, fed three times 
 a day at Dolma Bagtche Palace while the 
 Sultan is there. To keep all this great 
 machinery of supply in perfect order, so 
 that no matter how many mouths there are 
 to fill, nor what sudden caprice may seize 
 the Sultan, or any of his numerous women, 
 it may be instantly satisfied, is a tax upon 
 the best capacity, backed by unlimited 
 money or credit. If the caprice is not grati- 
 fied as rapidly as it is formulated, the officer 
 whose duty it is to provide for it is almost 
 certain to loose his position, if not his liberty 
 and belongings, for there is a fashion of 
 long usage in Turkey which confiscates 
 any disgraced official's possessions. The 
 Chamberlain (manager) is mostly occupied 
 in ministering to the wants and caprices of 
 the Sultan, and is in almost constant attend- 
 ance upon him, so the Treasurer of the' 
 Household (steward) has the burden of the 
 housekeeping on his burly shoulders. He 
 has an organized force of buyers, who are
 
 172 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 each charged with the purchase of certain 
 supplies for their individual departments, 
 each having his helpers, servants, and slaves. 
 One man is charged with the duty of sup- 
 plying all the fish, and as to furnish fish for 
 certainly six thousand persons is no light 
 undertaking in a place where there are no 
 great markets as there are in all other large 
 cities, he has to have about twenty men to 
 scour the various small markets and buy 
 of the fishermen, and each of these men 
 has two others to carry the fish they buy. 
 It requires about ten tons of fish a week. 
 There are nearly eighteen thousand pounds 
 of bread eaten daily ; for the Turks are large 
 bread-eaters, and this is all baked in the 
 enormous ovens situated at some distance 
 from the palace. The kitchens are detached 
 from all the palaces and kiosks. It requires 
 a large force of bakers to make the bread 
 and another to bring it to the palace and 
 another force of buyers who purchase the 
 flour and fuel. The bringing of most of 
 the wood and charcoal is done by the un- 
 happy camels, who carry it on their backs. 
 The rest comes in large caiquer. The 
 Turkish bread is baked in large loaves, and 
 is light, moist, and sweet, delicious bread 
 in every way, particularly that which is 
 made of rye. 
 
 "The food for the Sultan is cooked by one 
 man and his aids, and none others touch it. 
 It is cooked in silver vessels, and when 
 done each kettle is sealed by a slip of paper 
 and a stamp, and this is broken in the pres- 
 ence by the High Chamberlain, who takes 
 one spoonful of each separate kettle before 
 the Sultan tastes it. This is to prevent the 
 Sultan's being poisoned. The food is al- 
 most always served up to the Sultan in the 
 same vessels in which it was cooked, and 
 these are often of gold, but when of baser 
 metal the kettle is set into a rich golden 
 bell-shaped holder, the handle of which is 
 held by a slave while the Sultan eats. Each 
 kettle is a course, and is served with bread 
 and a kind of pancake, which is held on a 
 golden tray by another slave. It requires 
 just twice as many slaves as there are cour- 
 ses to serve a dinner to him. He usually 
 
 sits on a divan near a window, which looks 
 out over the Bosphorous, and takes his ease 
 and comfort in a loose pembazar&nd gegelik 
 with his sleeves turned up. After he has 
 eaten all he wants, the Sultan takes his cof- 
 fee and his chibouk and lies back in an 
 ecstasy of enjoyment and quiet reverie, 
 which he calls taking his keif. Woe be to 
 the one who comes to disturb it ! The S ultan 
 never uses a plate. He takes all his food 
 direct from the little kettles, and never uses 
 a table and rarely a knife or fork. A spoon, 
 his bread or pancake or fingers a'e far 
 handier. The whole household is at liberty 
 to take meals where it suits him or her best, 
 and thus everyone is served with a small 
 tray, with a spoon, with a great chunk of 
 bread, and the higher ones only get the 
 pancakes. 
 
 "The Sultan has a number of very large 
 farms, some of them covering miles in ex- 
 tent, both in European Turkey and Asiatic 
 Turkey, and they are intended to supply 
 all those things which farms can produce 
 to the palace. They do not grow rice, and, 
 in consequence, buy nearly one ton of rice 
 per day for the inevitable pilaff, six hundred 
 pounds of sugar, as much coffee, to say 
 nothing of the other groceries, fruit, veget- 
 ables, and meat. Rice and mutton and 
 bread form the greater part of the food for 
 the majority of Turks ; yet, aside from these, 
 they get away with one ton of beef and half 
 a ton of veal per day, to say nothing of the 
 other viands and fish, sweetmeats, confec- 
 tionery, nuts, and dried and fresh fruits. 
 The waste and extravagance in the kitchen 
 are enormous, and enough is thrown away 
 every day to maintain a hundred families. 
 Much of this is gathered up by beggars, 
 and the dogs eat the rest. 
 
 It is estimated that the anual cost of the 
 food received for the Sultan's house- 
 hold, horses and animals, aside from the 
 value of the product of the vast farms, 
 
 is very nearly if not quite $5,000,000 
 
 Cost of furniture, bedding- and carpets. . . 3,000,000 
 Drugs, women's clothes, jewels, cosmetics 10,000,000 
 
 * apnces of all kinds 15,000,000 
 
 Sultan's clothes and bedding 2,000,000 
 
 Sundries, presents, and servants wages. .. 4 000,000 
 
 Plate, gold and silver dishes 2,500,000 
 
 Carriages, 474 of them 474,000 
 
 Total $41,974,000
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 173 
 
 "That is a snug little sum, but it is an 
 under rather than an overestimate." 
 
 THE ARMY HOSPITAL STEWARD. 
 
 The army steward is like the under 
 steward of a steamship. He is subordinate 
 to the surgeon of the ward, who acts as 
 upper steward in some respects. The hos- 
 pital steward has his cooks and assistants 
 and has charge of the preparation and serv- 
 ing of meals and care of patients, beds, 
 etc. ; he makes his requisitions for rations 
 and supplies and presents them to the sur- 
 geon for approval and signature. At every 
 permanent post there is a store-room in 
 charge of a commissary, which greatly re- 
 sembles the store-room of a hotel, except 
 that it contains a much smaller variety of 
 goods, and the requisitions are hero pre- 
 sented and the goods issued to officers' 
 messes and ward patients and are booked 
 and accounted for to the quartermaster, 
 much the same as under the hotel system. 
 
 EXPOSITION* CATERING WHAT IT COSTS 
 
 TO CATER AND WHAT THE CHANCES 
 
 ARE FOR PROFITS. 
 
 Atlanta, Ga., Oct. i7th, '87. Here is a 
 great business which is intirely unrepre- 
 sented in American journalism, and carried 
 on entirely without system, almost without 
 understanding; a new set of moths flying 
 at the dazzling flame and coming out 
 singed every year. This letter to the 
 HOTEL WORLD is written on the grounds 
 in the half-way period of the Exposition at 
 Atlanta, the best week yet to come, the 
 weather the most favorable possible, and 
 everything propitious to the utmost success, 
 therefore I have no croaking predictions of 
 financial disaster to make in this case, but 
 am impressed with the vast disproportions 
 of the risks to be run to the possible profits 
 of a dining room and restaurant enterprise 
 at such a fair when undertaken under the 
 conditions which are now generally im- 
 posed. Undoubtedly the directors of these 
 temporary fairs ought to award the dining 
 room privileges free to the best and most 
 responsible party that would accept, instead 
 
 of exacting a heavy bonus and sure pay, 
 cash dovwi in advance, as they do, throwing 
 all the risks of failure from bad weather, 
 non-attendance of the public, fire, or other 
 mishaps, upon the venturesome refresh- 
 ment contractor; and undoubtedly they 
 would, if the risks and difficulties to be met 
 were better understood and some of the 
 delusively exaggerated idea of the profits 
 to be realized from serving cooked meals 
 were dissipated by actual exhibits of losses 
 and gains in different instances; for the 
 directors would be compelled to provide 
 dining places for the crowds which they 
 induce to attend their shows, and it is 
 nothing but the infatuation of inexperience 
 that impels men to pay thousands of dol- 
 lars for the wretched privilege of expend- 
 ing thousands more in fitting up one or two 
 hotels on the grounds, with all the inci- 
 dental entailments, all for the grand reward 
 in view of a probable two weeks' business. 
 Messrs. Directors! I wouldn't pay you 
 ten cents. There is no adequate profit in 
 serving meals alone under such circum- 
 stances. 
 
 Big money is occasionally made by 
 exposition catering, but it is under certain , 
 favorable conditions, such as the being in 
 a very large city; having exclusive privi- 
 leges ; owning every refreshment stand on 
 the grounds ; the contractor being perma- 
 nently provided with portable ranges, 
 tables, silverware, crockery, linen, and the 
 thousand miscellaneous wares, always 
 ready for such employment, and under- 
 standing the business and all its risks. 
 The number of disasters that occur is, 
 however, so much greater than the suc- 
 cesses as to scarcely justify a comparison 
 being made, yet, if better reported, they 
 might warn the fresh crop of enthusiasts 
 and keep some of them out of trouble ; as, 
 for example, these following: 
 
 At the Cotton Exposition, which took 
 place at Atlanta a few years ago, two gen- 
 tlemen in the restaurant and hotel business 
 on the grounds lost ten thousand dollars 
 each, according to common report. One 
 of these, Mr. Pease, is not known in hotel
 
 174 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 circles, but he had a local name and repu- 
 tation, somewhat of the factitious order, 
 perhaps, as an able restaurateur. He con- 
 ducted the exposition dining rooms, did 
 business enough, apparently, fed the people, 
 but failed to get his pay through having no 
 system of checking. He had long tables, 
 and the people crowded in at meal hours, 
 and many either went away without pay- 
 ing at all, or paid the waiters, or dropped 
 the money into any open hand that hap- 
 pened to be held out to receive it. The 
 other loser built the exposition hotel, and 
 failed to secure patronage commensurate 
 with his expenses. His financial disaster 
 probably changed the current of his life. 
 He is one of the most amiable of men, and 
 his name was once exceedingly prominent 
 as a rising hotel keeper, but ever since that 
 disappointment he has retired to his Vir- 
 ginia estate and cares no more for exposi- 
 tion follies. 
 
 Another ambitious man in the hotel 
 keeping line was brought down through 
 an unfortunate catering venture in Kansas 
 City several years ago. His name was 
 Seigmundt; he kept a hotel on the Euro- 
 pean plan and received &o much praise in 
 various ways that it made him want to own 
 all the hotels in the city, and he planned to 
 build a new one that should be larger than 
 all the others combined. Just then the 
 Kansas City bridge across the Missouri 
 river was finished ; the railway companies 
 and the city combined to give an immense 
 celebration of the event, and the city coun- 
 cil or committee in charge awarded to 
 Seigmundt the contract for a barbecue 
 feast to be provided for ten thousand people, 
 fully fifty thousand strangers being ex- 
 pected, and the barbecue being calculated 
 upon as one of the aids in providing for 
 such of the crowd as could not find other 
 accommodations. The event came off and 
 the barbecue proved a most indescribable 
 failure. Seigmundt did not understand 
 what he undertook. There was no water, 
 no bread, no more cooked meat than would 
 serve for a few hundred, only some raw 
 carcasses rolled about in the dirt, and a 
 
 crowd angry enough to have started a riot 
 but for strong restraints. Seigmundt was 
 utterly crushed. He not only lost the 
 money, as he could not claim payment on 
 his contract, but his courage was broken ; 
 he left Kansas City and went to Galveston, 
 where he died not long afterwards, in all 
 probability a victim to the mania for under- 
 taking gieat catering enterprises which so 
 often overcome the inexperienced. But 
 nearly every reader of this article can tell 
 of such instances. I will only add a local 
 example of small size. The man who had 
 the refreshment privileges at the Georgia 
 state fair at Macon last year came out six 
 hundred dollars loser, and if the amount 
 was small it was borrowed money and he 
 was a poor man, and consequently was 
 sufficiently serious for him. 
 
 CATERING AT THE PIEDMONT EXPOSITION. 
 
 If anything can be made in a dining 
 room and restaurant enterprise on the fair 
 grounds, when everything is favorable to 
 success, the venture at this place ought to 
 turn out well. I write now of the eating 
 department exclusively, for the liquor or 
 liquid privileges were sold separately and 
 do not affect the following exhibit of ex- 
 penses incurred (liquors, by the way, are 
 known by different names in the Atlanta 
 prohibition patois from those common in 
 the freer portions of the country) and 
 only cigar selling is included as an aid to 
 pay the first grand tax. The gentlemen 
 interested have the advantage of both hotel 
 and mercantile experience; they know how 
 to buy and where to buy the best and 
 cheapest. The privileges sold to these 
 parties as the highest bidders, were to run 
 a dining room on the regular meal plan, 
 meals not to be charged higher than fifty 
 cents, and to run another on a different 
 part of the grounds on the a la carte plan, 
 all dishes bearing a distinct price. Both of 
 these places are now running. The dining 
 room is just what the name implies Per- 
 sons approaching the door find a ticket 
 seller in the way, they buy their tickets, 
 paying, of course, in advance for their
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 175 
 
 meal; then at the door they deliver the 
 ticket to the doorkeeper and pass in when 
 the headwaiter directs them to seats at one 
 or other of the tables. A good ordinary 
 meal is served without a bill of fare, con- 
 sisting of about three kinds of meet, half a 
 dozen vegetables, three kinds of sweets, 
 that is, pudding and two kinds of pie, and 
 ending with coffee or tea; bread, butter, 
 pickles, cheese and such oddments being 
 of course supplied without stint. The other 
 place is like your Chicago Oyster House, a 
 good bill of fare is found upon the tables, 
 oysters, fish, game, made dishes and steaks, 
 chops, etc., in variety are cooked to order, 
 and parties can spend as much as they 
 please ; the prices are high enough to make 
 the place sufficiently exclusive and so all 
 kinds of people are suited. To secure the 
 pay under this plan where every dish bears 
 a different price and there can be no pre- 
 payment, the plan is to have the waiters pass 
 a desk where a clerk counts up the amount 
 on their tray, gives a ticket to go with the 
 order and drops a duplicate ticket into a 
 locked box. The customer takes the ticket 
 to the cashier and pays as he goes out, and 
 at night the clerk's box of tickets and the 
 cashier's tickets and cash are expected to 
 correspond in amount. This is all a pleas- 
 ant and smooth sort of a business when 
 once fairly in running order, but it is cal- 
 culated to appal a lazy man at least to con- 
 template the work that must be done in the 
 short limit of three or four weeks to equip 
 and commence operations in two such 
 places, the carpenters being still at work 
 building them, and then to think that after 
 the finish they are but to run twelve days. 
 It will be useful to some who have never 
 been through the mill to read over a list of 
 only the principal things that must be 
 done for such a spurt of business. We 
 have here, nearly all bought outright and 
 not hired : 
 
 Two hotel ranges, each one fire and 
 two ovens, one of them new, the other 
 bought cheaply. 
 
 One ten-foot oyster and chop range to 
 burn charcoal, made to order ; ten feet of 
 
 heavy gridirons, cupola, four flues and 
 smoke stack and expenses of putting up. 
 
 One three-foot broiler, new. 
 
 One carving table, new, with dish warmer 
 and water heating attachment, made to 
 order, with tin-ware steam chest utensils 
 belonging. 
 
 One wooden water tank for range, made 
 to order, and expenses of fittings. 
 
 Two wells dug one at each kitchen door, 
 and equipped with frames, pulleys and 
 buckets. , 
 
 Two small pantries partitioned off from 
 kitchens, fitted with shelves, doors, locks, 
 etc. 
 
 One store-room fitted with shelves, meat 
 hooks, locks, etc. 
 
 Two butcher's meat blocks, one for each 
 place. 
 
 Two refrigerators, not new. 
 
 Two new meat saws and cleavers. 
 
 Eight kitchen and dish-tables, common. 
 
 Eight dish-washing tubs fitted with drain 
 pipes. 
 
 Two dish racks erected on whole side of 
 dish rooms. 
 
 Four tin boilers with faucets and strain- 
 ers for coffee and tea, average ten gallons 
 each. 
 
 Six tall tin boilers for boiling hams and 
 for general purposes. 
 
 Three eight-gallon sauce-pans with lids, 
 made to order. 
 
 Fifty oyster and other sauce-pans. 
 
 Two large potato fryers. 
 
 Six wire broilers. 
 
 Twelve fry and omelette pans, various 
 sizes. 
 
 Thirty-six tin parts, all sizes, including 
 strainers, etc. 
 
 Spoons, ladles, dippers, skimmers, in 
 variety. 
 
 Fifty dining tables, six-seat iize, new. 
 
 Four hundred and fifty split-bottom 
 chairs, new, made to order. 
 
 One hundred and fifty white damask 
 table-cloths, new, hemmed. 
 
 Two thousand linen napkins, new, 
 hemmed. 
 
 Thirty-six plated castors or cruet stands.
 
 176 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 Three hundred sets plated knives, forks, 
 spoons, cups, saucers, plates, dishes, butter 
 chips, creamers, salts and tumblers, all 
 bought outright 
 
 Thirty- six waiters' trays. 
 
 Twenty-four water-pitchers. 
 
 E'ghteen gasoline lamps or torches for 
 use at intervals when electric light is not 
 in operation. 
 
 Sign painting, kalsomining, bunting de- 
 corations, evergreens, sign-card printing, 
 ticket printing, bill of fare printing. 
 
 Thirty feet of show cases, rented. 
 
 Telephone connection and instrument, 
 rented. 
 
 Wagons and drays hired, between fifty 
 and one hundred at a dollar a load expo- 
 sition prices. 
 
 Two headwaiters and thirty side waiters 
 hired for the fair at extra rates of wages. 
 
 Two head cooks and twenty-six kitchen 
 hands. 
 
 Six cashiers and clerks beside proprie- 
 tors, counting one in store room and one 
 at cigar stand. 
 
 Insurance on four thousand dollars worth 
 of property and stock including cigars at 
 special risk rate of 2j per cent. 
 
 "Fore-warned is fore-armed." The above 
 shows the principal bulk of the burden to 
 be taken on before business can be begun 
 in the line of exposition catering. Fuel, 
 imported New York meats, game, shell 
 oysters, fish, bread, butter, the hundred 
 miscellaneous items of provision, have to 
 come afterwards. 
 
 In competition with these two dining 
 establishments the fair directors also li- 
 censed, and our proprietors by their con- 
 tract agreed to, a large barbecue hall, where 
 sliced roast meat and bread can be obtained 
 at low price; and also twenty lunchstands, 
 where coffee and sandwiches, cakes, pies, 
 fruit, etc., are sold, so that our larger hotels 
 are far from enjoying a monopoly. 
 
 The weather thus far has been perfect 
 and the crowds in attendance large. The 
 best week is yet to come. 
 
 Atlanta, Ga., Oct. 31, 1887. Now that 
 the Exposition is over, the questions of 
 everyone I meet, of course run about this 
 way: "Well, how did yon come out?" 
 "Did they make anything ?" "What luck 
 did you have?" "How much money was 
 made?" In replying to questions of this 
 sort one must know how to stop short of 
 meddling with private business. From 
 that consideration I did not give the prices 
 paid for the many articles enumerated in 
 the former letter on this subject a list 
 intended to be permamentLy useful as 
 showing what is required in preparation 
 for such a business and as to results, it can 
 only be stated that they are like those of a 
 closely contested election. A week after 
 the event the returns are not all in, and the 
 proprietors after all their good book-keep- 
 ing do not yet know how they came out. 
 
 The sanguine calculation was made 
 that there would be twelve days of business 
 and four nights. When the time came 
 these promised periods where whittled 
 down at both ends and in the middle till 
 they lacked about one-third of being full 
 measure, for the two first days were but of 
 the preparatory sort and little business *.ras 
 done; then there never was much break- 
 fast business, nothing done until the 
 middle of the day. If a great many took 
 dinner they left the grounds before supper 
 except on the four nights when there were 
 fireworks, then there was a rushing supper 
 business as well as dinner, but after the 
 fire-works, nothing, for the people rushed 
 off the grounds in the greatest possible 
 hurry. Then came two rainy days, but as 
 they were the big days of the fair the 
 eating-house interests did not suffer, for the 
 people came over a hundred thousand 
 strong, some of them wading through mud 
 nearly up to their waists at least they 
 looked just that muddy and the eating- 
 houses were taxed to their utmost capacity 
 to feed them all ; but the day after that 
 came nobody and the day was a lost one to 
 business; the closing days were like the 
 opening, poor and unprofitable. 
 
 The proprietors were not, however, de-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 177 
 
 pending on a single team to pull them 
 through, they drove a four-in-hand. They 
 had paid in advance one thousand dollars 
 for the "privilege," and found that they 
 had the privilege of selling drinkables as 
 well as eatables ; they fitted up two places 
 in imitation of bars in connection with 
 their two dining rooms and stocked them 
 up with rice beer, nerve tonic, soda choctaw 
 blood balm, swift specific, and rheumatic 
 cure, drinks which Atlantians and all 
 southerners seem to be passionately fond of, 
 and as these were sold at ten cents a drink 
 for rice beer, which was the lowest, up to 
 twenty- five cents for soda choctaw, the re- 
 venue derived from them was very satis- 
 factory in amount, although there were a 
 number of druggist clerks required to be 
 paid for attending to the business not enu- 
 merated in the former list of hands em- 
 ployed. 
 
 The cash receipts from all four places 
 combined, that is, from the dining hall, the 
 oyster house and the two drug counters, 
 amounted on the best day of the fair to 
 over twelve hundred dollars for that one 
 day. On average days the four places 
 yielded pretty evenly about two hundred 
 dollars each. The dining room where 
 fifty-cent meals were served, as described 
 in the former letter, did the most business, 
 having a steady run of custom from the ex- 
 hibitors and attendants as well as visitors, 
 and usually served about four hundred 
 dinners; one day served fifteen hundred 
 meals, and this was all done with a one-fire 
 range- a broiler and steam chest with 
 steamers; a large part of the meats were 
 .ooked in the night by a special night 
 cook, and bread was bought from a steam 
 bakery. 
 
 I have written for the HOTEL WORLD 
 this outline sketch of what exposition cater- 
 ing consists in, and what may be expected 
 as the outcome, believing that even this will 
 be better than no guide at all for those who 
 may contemplate embarking in such an 
 undertaking. Without going into further 
 detail it will be fair to assume that: 
 
 This was as succesful as such an affair 
 ever can be. 
 
 The planning and furnishing was done 
 with the utmost intelligence by men who 
 knew what they were about. 
 
 Good wares were purchased that they 
 might be good enough to sell again. 
 
 The amount of business done was as 
 much as could be expected where a mo- 
 nopoly of all could not be secured. 
 
 The expenses were enormous. 
 
 A crowd of hands had to be paid en- 
 hanced wages and boarded where provisions 
 cost enhanced prices, through the general 
 demand of the time. 
 
 A great risk was run of the whole 
 period being rainy as the following 
 week really was and a consequent dead 
 loss through the lack of visitors to the 
 fair. 
 
 If the amount of profit made was large 
 enough to be interesting it would not take 
 a week or two to find it out. 
 
 If the thousand dollars exacted for the 
 "privilege" had never been paid, as it 
 ought not to have been, the proprietors 
 might have realized something worth their 
 trouble, anxiety and outlay. 
 
 If they have made anything it is very 
 likely to be found tied up in the ranges 
 and furniture, which now have to be sold 
 as best they may be. There is just one 
 more conclusion to be drawn, and that is 
 that a great many people, fair directors 
 among others, think that a thousand dol- 
 lars taken in for the sale of meals is nearly 
 all profit. The fact is, provisions cost 
 something; our proprietors paid Beinecke, 
 the New York butcher, $370 for only one 
 shipment of meat for their exposition 
 dining rooms and restaurant, which out- 
 lay was, of course, for only a compara- 
 tively small portion of the material used. 
 
 TRAINING A STOREKEEPER. 
 
 Old Colonel Vesey was standing by when 
 I was trying to instruct Tom, our store- 
 keeper, how he must do to meet the views 
 of the hotel company and especially the 
 company's very exact and methodical book-
 
 178 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 keeper, and the Colonel, who was an ex- 
 hotel keener himself, having run the only 
 tavern in Wayback for a number of years 
 before, dropped the remark that he " did 
 not see the use of keeping store-room 
 books, anyway; that he had never kept 
 any." That was just the sort of remark 
 that Tom liked to hear, for he was nothing 
 but a gay and noisy young fellow, who 
 wanted to do no more work than necessity 
 compelled him to do. He liked well 
 enough to sit in the store-room with a dime 
 novel ready open on the table ; to bluff off 
 one who came for stores; tell the next to 
 help himself, and swear when another 
 came for whom he had to reach something 
 down from an upper shelf or open a new 
 package; and he liked very well to use his 
 position to hand out nice fruit and such 
 good things to the pretty girls and withold 
 such favors from those who did not 
 please him. He had held such positions 
 before in unmethodically conducted houses 
 and imagined that hotel storekeeping was 
 just that playful sort of business every- 
 where, until he was installed In the store- 
 room of this first-class hotel and then the 
 requirements of the new place bewildered 
 him; and, instead of blaming himself for 
 his want of knowledge of the real duties of 
 the position, he simply said in a self-com- 
 placent way that his darned luck had led 
 him to a place where they were nothing 
 but a set of cranks. Colonel Vesey him- 
 self was employed in some subordinate 
 position in the front part of the house and 
 meant nothing in particular by his random 
 remark, and Tom did not stop to think 
 that the Colonel's hotel-keeping had not 
 been a success, but had left him in a de- 
 pendent condition after all. All Tom cared 
 for was to find that somebody shared his 
 views, and made his indignation at the 
 cranky requirements of the company's 
 bookkeeper seem perfectly natural. Con- 
 sequently this moral support from such an 
 old hotel keeper did Tom a great deal of 
 harm. I had brought him there myself, 
 rather liking his cheerful disposition and 
 thinking that he could be trained to become 
 
 a thorough hotel man, and this first-clas 
 hotel storekeeping seemed to me to be the 
 finest opportunity a young man could have 
 to get a knowledge of the business from 
 the very foundation. But there was some- 
 thing deficient in Tom's nature. He was 
 lazy. He was too easily discouraged. 
 Goods were sent in by merchants who neg- 
 lected to send the bills with the goods; 
 Tom declared he could not enter the things 
 in the receiving book when he did not 
 know the prices. Such goods were issued 
 to the different departments and entered in 
 his issue book without the cost prices. His 
 daily account of issues could not be made 
 up correctly. Bills came in to be paid and 
 he had lost track of the goods, could give 
 no account of them. Some goods sent in 
 were billed twice over that is, a bill would 
 come in with the goods and another tor 
 the same goods would come in, either 
 through mistake of the merchants or be- 
 cause it was the regular monthly presenta- 
 tion of bills, and most of the time Tom 
 would enter the second bill as well in his 
 receiving book, which at the end of the 
 month, when everything was added up, 
 made it appear as if he had received a lot 
 of goods which he could not account for. 
 The company's bookkeeper, being as bright 
 and keen as a diamond, never made any 
 quibbles about such blunders, as some 
 might have done, by trying to frighten 
 Tom with the threat of making him pay 
 for these goods which his book seemed to 
 show that he had received and yet he could 
 not produce, for the bookkeeper saw into 
 the mistakes at a glance, but seeing Tom 
 was but a poor stick and a hindrance to 
 the account keeping instead of a help, he 
 mildly advised that he be discharged and a 
 better hand put in his place. But Tom 
 saved us the trouble. All the fun of store- 
 keeping had vanished; he could not even 
 enjoy his novel; he dared hardly give 
 grapes, pears and oranges to the pretty girls 
 in the yard any more for fear the "cranks" 
 would go to weighing, measuring or 
 counting and ask him what he had done 
 with the stuff. So one morning he did not
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 179 
 
 appear at the store-room. He left the key 
 hanging on my doorknob and had run away. 
 It is all very well to propose to "fire out" 
 a hand who is only half a hand, but in 
 reality hotel keepers, stewards, headwaiters, 
 housekeepers, employers, all are very slow 
 to discharge the help that they can get 
 along with at all. It may be difficult to 
 find the better one to put In the place. 
 There is a chance that the new one will 
 prove worse with some other failing. 
 There are really but few trained hotel 
 hands and none harder to find than real 
 experienced store-room keepers. There 
 are plenty of hands always wanting to 
 work, whole helpless families of them, but 
 wl si do they know? What can they do? 
 Whet have they ever learned that is use- 
 ful? To be a hotel storekeeper it is neces- 
 sary to know something about accounts 
 and be quick at figures ; besides that there 
 is some muscular labor to be performed. 
 We find plenty who can work, but they 
 cannot keep books, and some who can keep 
 books who cannot or will not work with 
 their hands. And a good many poor 
 creaturers seeking work say pitifully, "But 
 I can do anything you tell me and shall 
 soon learn." Yes, if we only had time 
 and patience to train every new hand that 
 comes along; but we all have our own 
 duties, tasks and anxieties and want to be 
 assisted, not to be always giving assistance. 
 However, a store-room keeper had to be 
 found, for business was crowding every- 
 body. No male storekeeper could be found. 
 A young lady was advertising for a situa 
 tion as assistant bookkeeper. I answered 
 the advertisement, stating what was 
 wanted, and she came and made a favor- 
 able impression at once. In the large 
 cities there are numbers of female store- 
 room keepers in hotels and restaurants anc 
 they make a trade of it, following the same 
 occupation for years. It is suitable em- 
 ployment for a woman. There is some 
 laborious work about it, but generally 
 some help is available to be called in at the 
 worst times. Mr. Tatillonner that was 
 the company's bookkeeper, I did not men 
 
 tion his name before because I hate to 
 write long words intimated that now a 
 new person had taken up the duties it 
 would be wise to train her just right, by 
 which I understood very well that he 
 wanted somebody to fall in with his own 
 pecial method of hotel bookkeeping, and 
 classify matters and things as they came to 
 land, all ready for him to transcribe them 
 nto his own system of accounts, and I 
 seconded him in his first instructions and 
 explanations as much as lay in my power 
 amidst a rush of hotel business in the 
 icight of the season. Steward's and store- 
 teeper's bookkeeping is not the hotel book- 
 teeping, but only auxiliary. The steward's 
 Docks must be right and show faithfully 
 the incomes and outgoes of his department 
 before the hotel bookkeeper can make out 
 whether the hotel is making or losing. 
 Technical hotel bookkeeping is learned at 
 business colleges, but after that it is found 
 that different systems are followed in dif- 
 ferent places. Mr. Tatillonner was a man 
 of superior attainments in that line. He 
 was doing more than keeping the books of 
 the hotel business, he was the accountant 
 of all the company's operations of which 
 the hotel was only one part. He had gained 
 his experience of hotel accounts in estab- 
 lishments belonging to stock companies, 
 like those famous hotels of Switzerland or 
 those immense modern hotels of the En- 
 glish railway companies, where they add 
 up the totals every day, make statements 
 to the shareholders every month and make 
 public statements and declarations of divi- 
 dends every quarter, and where scarcely 
 so much as a match can be taken, certainly 
 not a box of matches, without somebody 
 having to account for it. So if Tom had 
 thought this man, doing this hotel's book- 
 keeping with such ideas of exactitude in 
 his head, was a "crank," it may well be 
 supposed that Mr. T. thought Tom was a 
 very poor excuse of a young man, indeed, 
 for knowing next to nothing. So it re- 
 mained now to be seen how the new store- 
 keeper would get along in thp seemingly 
 difficult situation.
 
 180 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 The difficulty was only seeming, not 
 actual. In a large establishment each de- 
 partment is but a part of the whole ma- 
 chine; each individual is a wheel, all hav- 
 ing to go through their own round in their 
 stated time and not disarrange the works 
 by stopping or trying to run more than 
 their own part. Our new storekeeper had 
 to learn a daily routine according to a spe- 
 cial system, and that once understood it 
 was merely a matter of industry and faith- 
 ful application to duty and success was 
 sure; besides, Miss Massinger that was 
 her name liked her new duties ; she was 
 prirn and methodical in all her ways and 
 had a natural talent for bookkeeping. 
 
 In a very large number of hotels, those 
 of small or medium capacity, the store- 
 keeper's duties are much mixed, only a 
 portion of the day at stated periods being 
 devoted to receiving and issuing goods. It 
 may be in such a case our new storekeeper 
 would have filled in the intervals assisting 
 in the pantry or preparing the fruit and 
 cake baskets for table, or attending to 
 the milk and cream. In this house, how- 
 ever, we had ample employment for every 
 hour of the day for the storekeeper in the 
 store-room itself, the very strict bookkeep- 
 ing required making even more than one 
 could attend to. Early every morning, or 
 soon after the store-room was open, which 
 was half past five, the country people came 
 crowding around with marketing to sell ; 
 that made weighing, measuring, counting, 
 booking and giving orders properly signed, 
 dated, stamped and figured up to each one 
 to get the pay on at the office, the sums 
 varying from ten cents to ten or twenty 
 dollars as when a load of chickens was 
 bought. At the same time three or four 
 hands from the cooking and serving de- 
 partments came with vessels for various 
 material, which had to be weighed, meas- 
 ured or counted out to them and the 
 amounts entered in the proper column in 
 the store-room issue book, charged to each 
 department, all the issues during the day 
 to be footed up at night. When goods 
 came in from the stores and markets, also 
 
 wood, coal, charcoal, ice, milk, all kinds of 
 stores and supplies in fact, the storekeeper 
 had to receive them, tee them weighed or 
 counted and entered the transaction ; com- 
 pared the actual amounts received with the 
 bills sent in and marked errors, if any, and 
 disallowed the pay for goods damaged or 
 missing. Then these bills were to be entered 
 in the book the same as the small market- 
 ings from the country people, but perhaps 
 in different columns. So one thing with 
 another kept Miss M. fully employed, the 
 hotel doing a lively business at the time, 
 and she seemed to be getting along very 
 well. 
 
 Still, at the end of a week I could see 
 there was a hitch somewhere, and I was 
 anxious for various reasons that my new 
 storekeeper should give satisfaction, so I 
 set in to find out what it was. But she 
 hardly knew. It had just taken her two 
 days and part of the nights to take stock, 
 that is to find out at the end of the month 
 how much property remained in the store- 
 room and give the value of it in figures, 
 and this was one thing which had caused 
 Mr. T., the bookkeeper, to give vent to 
 some expressions of impatience. Miss M. 
 thought she had been doing noble work in 
 keeping all the books in correct order and 
 allowing no errors to appear of any de- 
 scription in the accounts of a week, but 
 she said Mr. Tatillonner seemed to expect 
 stock to be taken every night, which was a 
 physical impossibility so she thought 
 and said he had remarked that while he was 
 obliged for the sake of his own account- 
 keeping to have a statement of stock on hand 
 every two weeks, yet he should like to have 
 her accounts so that she could tell how much 
 stock remained at any time on an hour's 
 notice, and she added, laughingly, she be- 
 gan to sympathize with her predecessor, 
 Tom, who had run away from it. I had 
 heard him myself speaking to her about a 
 former manager of the house who was so 
 exact in his figures and daily bookkeeping 
 that he could tell every night whether the 
 hotel had made anything that day or lost. 
 Some men have a taste and talent that
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 181 
 
 way. There is nothing in common between 
 such men as that and such as Colonel 
 Vesey, who despised figures altogether, 
 yet it must be owned the figuring men are 
 the ones who carry on the world's business. 
 There was another thing making the new 
 storekeeper feel incompetent and uncom- 
 fortable. The manager of the hotel him- 
 self was in the habit of dropping in, after 
 looking over some bills perhaps, and ask- 
 ing what day it was that the last doz. boxes 
 of soap came in and how many bars were 
 being issued a day; when the last tierce of 
 hams was begun of; how much flour was 
 being used a day or week, and so forth. 
 The girl thought her part was done when 
 she had entered everything correctly in 
 the books, and had not prepared herself to 
 answer such questions off hand, though 
 they could be answered by an examination 
 of the entry book or issue book, or both; 
 but the stock taking seemed to her the in- 
 surmountable difficulty. "What," she 
 said, "roll about and weigh all those bar- 
 rels and boxes, those tubs of butter and 
 that greasy tierce of lard every night?" 
 " Nonsense, young lady," I said, "nothing 
 
 of the sort ; what are your books for ; don't 
 they show how much you have given out 
 from a barrel or box every day?" " Yes," 
 said she, " they would if the amounts were 
 singled out and added together and sub- 
 tracted from the box or barrel, but that 
 would take forever; there wouldn't be time 
 for anything else all day. Oh dear," she 
 continued, about half in earnest, "which 
 road do you think Tom took when he ran 
 away? I may have to go the same route." 
 But I told her there was nothing to be dis- 
 couraged about; all she needed was one 
 more book specially ruled, which she had 
 not at present, and I would show her how 
 to take stock every evening without leav- 
 ing her chair, and how to tell at a glance 
 what day, and hour if necessary, any box, 
 barrel or package had been taken in, and 
 how much was used a day, or in an aver- 
 age way, and it would not take up an hour 
 a day to keep it posted to the satisfaction 
 of even such an exacting accountant as 
 Mr. Tatiilonner was proving to be. 
 
 Accordingly I obtained a blank book of 
 medium size and ruled it in this way: 
 
 STOHE-HOOM STOCK BOOK. 
 
 STORE-BOOM STOCK BOOK. 
 
 CABBAGE. 
 
 CHICKENS. 
 
 SOAP. 
 
 SUGAR. 
 
 
 Q 
 
 a 
 
 
 aj 
 
 g 
 
 H 
 
 o 
 
 H 
 
 
 en 
 
 g 
 
 
 Q 
 M 
 
 
 t/5 
 
 fc 
 
 t 
 
 c 
 
 M 
 
 
 ui 
 
 !? 
 
 
 
 c. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 M 
 
 * 
 
 Q 
 
 H 
 
 5 
 
 < 
 
 s 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 O 
 
 H 
 
 5 
 
 < 
 S 
 
 ,j 
 
 H 
 
 o 
 
 H 
 
 D 
 
 < 
 
 s 
 
 D 
 
 
 H 
 
 O 
 
 H 
 
 2 
 
 S 
 
 > 
 
 H 
 
 B 
 
 x 
 
 X 
 
 W 
 
 Kl 
 
 a 
 < 
 
 M 
 tf 
 
 H 
 x 
 
 M 
 
 u 
 
 
 
 D 
 1-1 
 
 H 
 
 X 
 
 X 
 
 M 
 of 
 
 LJ 
 < 
 
 H 
 
 X 
 0) 
 
 H 
 M 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 600 bars. 
 
 12 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 70 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 100 head. 
 
 10 
 
 
 3 
 
 24 
 
 GO 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 G 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 50 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 1G 
 
 
 4 
 
 240 Ibs. 
 
 25 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 5 
 
 108 
 
 40 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 35 
 
 
 G 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 40 
 
 
 G 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 45 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 G 
 
 62 
 
 7 
 
 18 
 
 25 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 
 10 
 
 530 
 
 7 
 
 
 25 
 
 110 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 
 18 
 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 
 16 
 
 
 
 
 16 
 
 
 
 
 1G 
 
 
 
 
 16 
 
 

 
 182 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 The Store-Room Issue Book. 
 
 ISSUED FROM STORE ROOM,, 
 
 KITCHEN 
 
 KITCHEN 
 
 
 t . 
 
 i/.l. 
 
 ,ii. 
 
 ,i k . 
 
 Toul 
 
 % 
 
 Dot 
 
 Cts 
 
 "T^T 
 
 H. 
 
 ~ 
 
 ii 
 
 Tutal 
 
 a 
 
 M 
 
 . IS 
 
 Reef, quartet 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Broufht Forwan 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Beef, loin 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Peas, epht 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Beef, rib roast 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Peas 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 b<*f, logjg 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Rice 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mutton, iitfto 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Barley, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mutton, racks 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mackerel 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Lamb 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Pig 's feet 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Veal, quartt-i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Tripe 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Veal, riclu 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Salt 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Pork. quarter 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Macaroni 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 p . | n in 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Corned beef 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Chu-len?, irrSH 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Tooguee 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Cbiekene, live 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ham 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ( Turke^t!, Inert 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 BacoiD 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Turkeys, ii*e 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Salt pork 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Fish bulk 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Cheeee 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Fih riro^-H 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Oil 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ButWt table 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 IrSIW^F 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Butt.,. k,i; 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 l*r,l 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Oaimtal 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 f Trucker) a/hem 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 anui 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 UilL 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 E ee 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^CtAlf f " 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 an>i c rfl " 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sug&r. j,ow'd 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 t Codfish 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Cracker dust 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Corn 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Tcmat..e8 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 C&l *'> 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Turnip? 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Parelev 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Carrots 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 OlllODS 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Beam, stnni; 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 B*>n. limn 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ( Beuu. navy 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ( 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 f 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Total' 
 
 J 

 
 \ 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 183 
 
 The Store-Room Issue Book. 
 Date, _ 1 88 
 
 PASTRY & BAKERV " DINING RO.QM & PANTRY 
 
 
 Jg. 
 
 ii 
 
 ," 
 
 l 
 
 T..ta 
 
 4 
 
 Dol 
 
 tts. 
 
 
 . 
 
 uiL 
 
 ,i. 
 
 ij. 
 
 Total 
 
 4 
 
 Do!. 
 
 C! 
 
 
 Flour 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Buttei 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Meal 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 5U;ar,cut lea 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Lard 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 sugar, powTi 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Butter 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 syrup 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Eggs 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Coffee 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Su2ai brown 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 r. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ..Suaar. eran 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 /hocol.ite. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . Sugar, powj 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Celery 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Milk 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ))ivea 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^ice 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 'ickles 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Lemons 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 'omaloes 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Cream 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Li m> 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Gelatine 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 j ur ^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 .Salt 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^hevst 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Total 
 
 
 
 
 Total 
 
 
 
 
 LAUMDKY & LINEN ROOM. 
 
 
 
 
 OFFICE 
 
 
 
 
 Soap 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Wntiue i-'sper 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Blueing 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Juvelopes 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Starch 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Cl papei 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Total 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 Total 
 
 
 
 
 
 HELP'S HAUL 
 
 
 
 
 RECAPITULATION 
 
 
 
 
 Sugar 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 \iichen 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mil* 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Pastry and B. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Coffei 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Uinmo Room 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Tea 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^aundr} 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Syrup 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Office 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Buttei 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 !el|.'s Mall 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Tutfi 
 
 
 
 
 Tula Issue.- 
 
 

 
 184 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 The example shows the half-size of two 
 pages; there must be ruled lines enough 
 to take in the 31 days, and the wider the 
 pages are the more items can be run on 
 the same date line, bringing 3 or 4 items in 
 each division where our example shows but 
 one. The names of articles were placed 
 alphabetically in the pages; thus the first 
 page was headed Almonds, Apples, the last 
 page Wine and Yeast \ it was easy to find 
 Ice in the middle of the book when that ar- 
 ticle was brought in and weighed, and easy 
 to find Milk when that came in varying 
 quantities thrice or more a day, and easy 
 to set down the number of gallons to the 
 left or right of the column, showing the 
 morning and evening receipts. It was 
 found that there were 200 articles of al- 
 most daily issue to be given in these pages, 
 such as Bacon, Barley, Beef,Beans,Brushes, 
 Butter, Buckets; at two to a page it took 
 up 100 pages or 50 leaves of the book for 
 every two or three months. But still not 
 over 50 different things would be issued in 
 one day, and some days not nearly that 
 many, so that there were often only 20 or 
 30 items to be transcribed from the issue 
 book, and the quickest way was for two 
 persons to act together. The "Remains" or 
 stock-on-hand column was not necessarily 
 added up daily, but it was found useful to 
 do so as it often reminded the storekeeper 
 
 of an otherwise hardly remembered duty, 
 to order more of an article that was getting 
 low, as in the example; the addition and 
 subtraction shows only five chickens left 
 on hand for a houseful of people. But the 
 best of it was that after this, the issues be- 
 ing strictly attended to and punctually 
 entered, the amount of stock on hand, even 
 down to the chicken house and potato 
 cellar, could be told from this book on an 
 hour's notice, and the time when any spe- 
 cial lot of goods had been received could 
 be told in a moment. Miss Massinger, as 
 I have said, did not hate figures, her tastes 
 rather led her to find pleasure in them, she 
 saw a clearer way before her after that and 
 I never heard any further allusions to the 
 departed Tom and his example of running 
 away from the store-room troubles. Mr. 
 Tatillonner, without knowing or caring to 
 know how it came about, found his only 
 cause of complaint removed and finds 
 much to praise in the storekeeper for she 
 still holds' the position, being now in the 
 second year and they have become great 
 friends. Sometimes I think he is teaching 
 her the higher branches of bookkeeping, 
 seeing how very close they set their chairs 
 together and how very long it seems to 
 take them to go over one small page of an 
 account book. 
 
 THE HEADWAITER AND His TROOPS. 
 
 THE HEADWAITER. 
 
 The headwaiter is an important officer, 
 with forces under his command. When 
 there is a banquet or a large dinner the 
 guests are placed in a position of great 
 peril, liable to come to grief; for there are 
 they famishing; yonder, in the kitchens, 
 bakeries, pantries, dish heaters, refrigera- 
 tors and milk rooms, is their dinner, un- 
 concerned hanging back, lying around, 
 hiding away. And between the dinner and 
 the guests are all sorts of obstacles and 
 
 barriers, such as busy hands and careless 
 hands, funny people and cross people, side 
 interests, selfish aims, bribes, cold drafts, 
 indolence, and long distances. The guests 
 cannot go after it themselves, some of 
 them occasionally wish they could, but 
 their success or defeat in geiting their din- 
 ner depends upon the headwaiter and the 
 way he manages the troops of waiters 
 under him. 
 
 If you would find the soft spot in the 
 nature of the first-class headwaiter, take
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 185 
 
 notice of his boys ; observe the good con- 
 dition they are in; how neat they look; 
 how they are graded according to size; 
 how promply they march to their stations ; 
 bow well they know the bounds of their 
 duties and how firmly and calmly they face 
 all the odds that may be brought against 
 them in the way of extra guests within 
 their own stations, without being in the 
 least distracted by the way the battle is 
 going in other parts of the dining room ; 
 each man holding his own post, the com- 
 mander alone looking over the whole field. 
 
 If you would see the headwaiter put off 
 for a moment that look of superciliousness 
 as he stands at the dining room door, ap- 
 pearing as if he were too lofty to be spoken 
 to, speak to him in the same vein his 
 thoughts are running in, of the whole din- 
 ing room, not of any individual. His ap- 
 parent superciliousness is not pride of 
 place, it is anxiety. He sees tables which 
 you do not, without waiters and the guests 
 impatient, and he does not care for you at 
 the moment, but wishes he could see 
 through the walls what those absent wait- 
 ers are doing. And, besides, he is taking 
 note of various strange faces at certain 
 tables, for he has his part to do in watch- 
 ing that strangers pay for what they get, 
 that beats and sneaks do not slip in and 
 out amongst respectable people unobserved. 
 
 And, furthermore, accord to the head- 
 waiter his right, which the name of the 
 office defrauds him of, remembering that 
 he is not a waiter, but the head of the 
 waiters, the chief and superintendent of 
 the dining room forces, if you wish for his 
 co-opera f ion, his respect and regard. 
 
 And I do not see why you should not. 
 Service is, after all, the principal thing in 
 a hotel, and the headwaiter is the master 
 of that branch. It makes but little differ- 
 ence how well the feast may be prepared 
 in the kitchens if it is not well delivered at 
 the tables. And the headwaiter becomes 
 very much of a gentleman through the 
 training of his position and the force of 
 example in his daily contact. He sees the 
 contrast daily between good breeding and 
 
 good manners and boorishness at the table, 
 and he becomes a very good teacher of 
 deportment and a discriminating critic of 
 manners of the other employe's of the 
 house. It is the best proof of his own 
 training that the good headwaiter, even if 
 hostile towards some other employe's, is 
 never loud in speech and never makes 
 himself obnoxious by violent demonstra- 
 tions. 
 
 The headwaiter dresses well. He is 
 obliged to do so, and is entitled to receive 
 a liberal salary for that reason. The well- 
 paid chef wears white jackets, caps ,and 
 apions, and light overalls, all furnished 
 to him clean daily or oftener, the laundry 
 work being at the expense of the house, 
 but the headwaiter has no such privileges. 
 For some other employe's a fif een-dollar 
 shop suit of clothes may be as good as they 
 need to wear, but the headwaiter cannot 
 economize in that way. He is obliged, as 
 part of his business, to dress as well as the 
 average of the guests of the house, he is 
 often a model in that respect. He must 
 wear fine linen and unmaculate cravats. 
 It really takes up a considerable salary 
 to keep up a first-class headwaiter's per- 
 sonal appearance. And in regard to the 
 headwaiter's "tips" the subject is much 
 mixed, for it depends upon the kind of man 
 he is whether he receives much or any- 
 thing in that way, but it is "a fact that very 
 few white headwaiters ever receive " tips," 
 unless, perhaps in a general way, the guests 
 make up a purse at the end of a season or 
 at Christmas ; and no man in a really first 
 class position ever descends to divide tips 
 with the waiters. There are plenty cf 
 floating yokes and sarcasms pointing the 
 other way, but they are all in relation to 
 low grade houses. A first-class headwaiter 
 cannot afford to sell his independent im- 
 partiality for a "tip." 
 
 Some of them have remarked to the 
 writer: "If I allow them to give me a 
 dollar, as I used to do when I was young, 
 they think they own me and they want ten 
 dollars worth of favors and extra waiting 
 on for it. It is all well enough for the
 
 186 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 waiters who can stay with them, but if half 
 a dozen people at as many tables had given 
 me a dollar each they would work me to 
 death calling for extra attentions. No, I 
 never take these bribes cannot afford to." 
 However, as before remarked, there are 
 different sorts of men in the business, and 
 some may be influenced by the size of the 
 "tip" offered, and by other considerations 
 to be mentioned further on. 
 
 THE HEADWAITER'S IMPORTANCE. 
 
 The degree of importance of the head- 
 waiter varies according to the disposition 
 of different proprietors, for in some hotels 
 the latter likes to pass up and down through 
 his dining room and circulate among the 
 guests and the headwaiter may have to 
 take a back place. But in nearly all large 
 hotels, particularly in the cities, the head- 
 waiter is the head and front of the dining 
 room, he is the only official the guests 
 come in contact with, and with less re- 
 straint than if the proprietor himself were 
 present they make known their wants and 
 complaints to him. There is a vivid pic- 
 ture of the restaurant headwaiter in the 
 sketch of "A Russian Restaurant," given 
 on a former page. That personage is met 
 with in every European hotel, and is the 
 most prominent figure in every stranger's 
 recollection of the place. He is called not 
 headwaiter, but' maitre-d '-hotel. In En- 
 gland he is frequently called manager. In 
 this country he is called the inside steward 
 in the European hotel or restaurant or 
 club, and he is the same and his duties are 
 the same as the headwaiter in the Ameri- 
 can plan dining room. He it is that meets 
 the visitors, sees them located, and if they 
 are in any way special objects of attention, 
 he is the one who hears their orders and 
 sees that they are attended to. In Paris, 
 recently, an incident occurred where two 
 men in shabby clothing, in the garb of 
 laborers, but with money in their hands, 
 went into one of the highest-class restau- 
 rants and would have ordered their dinner. 
 The headwaiter (maitre d' hotel) said, 
 "Gentlemen, your dress prevents your 
 
 getting any dinner here." They would 
 not be refused, but the police were called 
 in and they were lawfully expelled. In 
 England the law would have sustained 
 them in their demand for dinner in any 
 public eating house. The same would be 
 the case in this country. The headwaiter 
 in an American hotel knows what to do in 
 such a case. He has obscure tables, lower 
 end tables, middle-class tables, upper-class 
 tables and exclusive tables, and he assorts 
 strangers as they come and allots them to 
 their tables according to their appearance 
 or their deserts generally, without their 
 being at all aware of the sorting process 
 they are subjected to. That is what he is 
 at the door for. The dining room is a 
 public one, but with a good headwaiter in 
 charge no dusty, travel- stained or ill- 
 dressed customer will be put to shame by 
 finding himself seated among the exclu- 
 sives at an upper table. This, however, is 
 only one among the manifold duties of the 
 headwaiter which requires a special kind 
 of ability for its efficient performance. 
 
 THE HEADWAITER DOES NO WAITING. 
 
 It seems worth while to state this ex- 
 plicitly, there being such a general miscon- 
 ception in this regard. A person at table 
 wants something and seeing the head- 
 waiter standing by the door apparently idle 
 motions to him and would send him after 
 the thing desired ; but the headwaiter can 
 not go, he will send a waiter, but never 
 leaves the dining room himself, unless 
 there is extreme urgency. It Is true we 
 are speaking generally of the larger and 
 more expensive class of hotels, and pro- 
 prietors in country towns expect some- 
 thing different, yet if the headwaiter does 
 his duty even in a small house where there 
 are but five or six waiters, it will be found 
 that he does better for the guests and for 
 the reputation of the house by remaining 
 in the dining room to watch; to see who 
 comes in and who goes; where they are 
 seated and whether taken to seats reserved 
 for them or somebody else; to watch the
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 187 
 
 wants of all the guests at all the tables and 
 not go off on errands for a few. 
 
 SCARCITY OF GOOD HEADWAITERS. 
 
 There never can be very many of the 
 highest type of headwaiters, the require- 
 ments of the position are such that not 
 many men combine all the necessary qual- 
 ifications, and when a pioprietor is prepar- 
 ing to organize a force for a new hotel or 
 a resort house there is nothing gives him 
 more anxious trouble, if he be not already 
 acquainted with his man, than the selec- 
 tion of a headwaiter. The reasons for it 
 will be apparent as we proceed. Head- 
 waiters are officers in command of a num- 
 ber of hands and it is necessary that they 
 be able to govern ; they are like the centu- 
 rions of old, commanding a hundred men. 
 One of the large catering jobs mentioned 
 in a former page required the employment 
 of 26 headwaiters; each one had 150 wait- 
 ers under him, and each had among them 
 his lieutenants and captains. One London 
 firm advertised for 4,000 waiters for some 
 such a big transaction and received appli- 
 cations from 10,000, whether waiters or 
 those who called themselves such. There 
 are plenty of waiters, but only by selection 
 from great numbers can the headwaiters 
 be found. The proprietor may have his 
 dining room force well organized when 
 something happens that the headwaiter 
 leaves and in the ordinary course with 
 almost any other line of business the 
 second waiter would take his place, but it 
 is seldom so here. The second may be 
 able, but not good-looking. It is very de- 
 sirable that the chief of the dining room 
 should be of good personal apperance. He 
 is the front sign of the house; he is the 
 man the proprietor puts forward to repre- 
 sent himself In the first meetings with the 
 guests; he is to give the first impressions, 
 and they may be lofty or low, buoyant or 
 depressing, affluent or beggarly in a great 
 degree, according to the condition of the 
 official who either ushers or hustles them 
 into their seats. 
 
 Tn the army there is a rule which shuts 
 
 out all men below a certain standard 
 height, and if it is bad for the little men, 
 the rule is good for the appearance of the 
 ranks on parade. Small waiters may do 
 well enough, but if they run large it comes 
 hard for a stumpy headwaiter to play the 
 peremptory colonel over them. Then there 
 are some men able enough whose counte- 
 nance would turn milk sour if they looked 
 at it; some so self-absorbed that nobody 
 can receive good greating from them, nor 
 catch their eye at table; some that look 
 pallid and consumptive or pictures of grief; 
 these are never chosen to stand at the din- 
 ing room doors. Then some are built to 
 be cowboys, to roam the western plains, 
 rough in spite of themselves and their good 
 'Clothes, loud and obtrusive without deli- 
 I cacy enough to be aware of it, and these 
 are out of place on the carpet, however 
 well they may do to marshal a battallion 
 of waiters at some great festival in the 
 open fields. It is not advisable either to 
 have a man with .a glowing red nose and 
 coarse, blotched face trying the head waiter's 
 role in first-class dining room ; his will may 
 be good, but he is out of place also. And 
 some who do not suffer under any of these 
 disadvantages of a physical nature are defi- 
 cient in other respects. The too-good man 
 will play with his waiters and loses his au- 
 thority by placing himself on an equality 
 with them. Or he spoils them by the pro- 
 miscuous granting of favors, the letting 
 them do as they please. Others are crabbed, 
 capricious and unjust. They make rules 
 one day which they change the next day. 
 A waiter may be blamed and reprimanded 
 by them for doing something today, which 
 was perfectly right to do yesterday, and 
 thus they lose their influence and useful- 
 ness. For every sort of inefficiency results 
 in injury to the hotel. Some hotels are so 
 cursed with incompetency in this depart- 
 ment in the midst of a busy season, when 
 there is no time for changes, that the busi- 
 ness suffers perceptibly and lasting damage 
 is done to the reputation of the establish- 
 ment. And because of the narrowness of 
 the gate and the strict sifting of men the
 
 188 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 number that gets through into the first 
 class headwaiter's ranks is small and 
 strictly first-class men are hard to find. 
 
 THE FOREIGN HEADWAITER. 
 
 We have in this country certain ways of 
 our own of hotel keeping which may be 
 better than any methods of other lands, but 
 we also have hotels as well as clubs and 
 restaurants which are conducted under 
 foreign methods conformably to a line of 
 conventionalities not to be learned in the 
 American plan hotel, and it is necessary to 
 the making of a thorough inside steward, 
 maitre d' liotel or head waiter to see what 
 sort of men they have as well as what they 
 do in those establishments. In addition to 
 " Monsieur Mezzofanti " of the "Russian 
 Restaurant" article, before referred to, we 
 have here a sketch of another of the high 
 school of head waiters: 
 
 "Everybody knows Bignon's restaurant 
 in the Avenue de 1'Opera. It is the rival 
 of the Maison Doree, the Cafe" Anglais 
 and the Lion d'Or. One of its pillars has 
 passed away in the person of 'Henry', the 
 head-waiter, who, being almost an institu- 
 tion in himself, deserves a brief obituary 
 notice. ' Henry ' has been called the 'soul' 
 of Bignon's gastronomic establishment, 
 and so he was. He had been there for 
 twenty-six years and knew every foreigner 
 and eve'ry Parisian of mark. It was inter- 
 esting to observe the polished obsequious- 
 ness with which he handed the menu to a 
 royal or imperial guest and to contrast it 
 with the more familiar manner in which 
 he tried to coax the appetite of some blas& 
 liabitu by descanting on the merits of a 
 new sauce, or praising the exellence of 
 some special dish of the day. 'Henry' 
 had raised his profession of head waiter 
 to the dignity of an art. He had only one 
 rival 'Ernest,' the maitre d' hotel of the 
 Gate Anglais, who was also a paragon in 
 attending to customers. The education of 
 no Paris waiter was supposed to be com- 
 plete unless he had learned to flourish his 
 napkin, to flit between tables and to carry 
 trays under the guidance either of ' Mon 
 
 sieur Henry chez Bignon ' or of ' M. Ernest,* 
 of the Gate Anglais. Waiters who could 
 afford it are said to have had restricted 
 meals at Bignon's for the purpose of study- 
 ing ' Henry's ' movements de visu, and it is 
 quite probable that had ' Monsieur Henry ' 
 started a conservatoire for the education 
 and bringing out of garcons and maitres 
 d'hotel he might have made a fortune 
 thereby. Had the deceased maitre d'hote! 
 been of a literary turn he might have com- 
 piled some interesting memoirs. He 'waited' 
 during the declining effulgence of the 
 Empire, when all Paris was mad with riot 
 and revelry ; he attended many a petit sou- 
 per, where champagne flowed like water, 
 and he must have seen many a might* 
 magnate making a fool of himself for the 
 beaux yeux of. some painted and powdered 
 'creature' with an insatiable appetite for 
 crayfish and an unquenchable thirst for 
 choice crus." 
 
 And here is another: 
 
 "Eugene is indispensable to the estab- 
 lishments where the elite of Parisian gen- 
 try dine. He knows all the customers, is 
 acquainted with their tastes, and with their 
 favorite subjects of conversation. He has 
 carefully studied them, and knows whether 
 to let Mr. So-and-So order his own dinner 
 or whether to give him the advantage of 
 his professional experience. Eugene is 
 always there, and watches the first mouth- 
 fuls disappear with a keen interest. His 
 guest could not possibly begin dinner unless 
 Eugene was there to put him in good dining 
 humor. A short chat invariably springs 
 up between Eugene and his customer. 
 Eugene is gay, is amiable, and a ban -uivant. 
 Accustomed to live in the atmosphere of 
 the most succulent dishes, and of the most 
 generous wines, he seems to have taken the 
 good properties of both. As soon as 
 Eugene has set one customer going, he 
 moves on to another. He rarely takes any 
 notice of a stranger, disdaining an unfa- 
 miliar face. If an intruder calls, Eugene 
 contents himself with a sign, 'Louis, attend 
 to monsieur,' or ' Casimir, the wine-iist for 
 monsieur.' There are some customers
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 189 
 
 who will only be served by Eugene. They 
 even prefer him to the proprietor of the 
 restaurant, who is often obsequious and 
 awe-inspiring. It is specially to high-class 
 parties that Eugene is indispensable. Ac- 
 cording to the appearance of the guests, he 
 knows what menu to suggest. He has 
 summed up your revel at a glance, and 
 knows exactly how much you want to 
 spend. He is never present when the bill 
 is presented. One is always rather suspi- 
 cious of one's customer, and, not to spoil an 
 acquaintance so well begun, he leaves his 
 guest to wrangle with the waiter. The cus- 
 tomer pays and goes away more or less sat- 
 isfied; but he is cert lin to come again on 
 the morrow, more attached and faithful to 
 the establishment than ever. And thus it 
 is that Eugene, after ten years' service, in a 
 veritable power in the establishment, de- 
 ferred to by the proprietor and feared and 
 envied by the waiters." 
 
 " He knows all their tastes and favorite 
 subjects of conversation " does he? Well, 
 headwaiters hardly get to that pitch of 
 familiarity in this country. But much de- 
 pends upon the kind of man he is. One 
 of the present restaurant proprietors of 
 Paris was started in business for himself 
 through the favor of some stock broker 
 customers who liked him. They told him 
 of a good speculation in stocks gave him 
 a pointer he took advantage of the in- 
 formation, speculated and realized a small 
 fortune. But the rule works both wa^s. 
 Another headwaiter at a Paris cafe, eaves- 
 dropping behind the chairs of a couple of 
 stock brokers, thought he had picked up a 
 pointer and went and speculated on the 
 strength of it for all Paris speculates 
 but it proved that he had "caught hold of 
 the wrong end of the stick," and he lost 
 his life's savings, $30,000. How different 
 his case from that of a London boy who 
 was both headwaiter, cook and caterer in a 
 stock broker's office. Some shares in one 
 of the large brewing companies were put 
 upon the market. This boy had been for 
 a good while a sort of private caterer for 
 the brokers' lunch, cooking and serving it 
 
 in a room in the rear, making a good profit 
 and saving his money. The brokers ap- 
 plied for a number of shares, as brokers. 
 The boy applied for a number of shares, 
 calling himself a refreshment contractor. 
 There were not enough shares to go 
 around, but the brewing company gave the 
 preference to refreshment caterers; the 
 boy got his shares, the brokers did not. 
 The shares increased in value immensely 
 and gave the young fellow a good start in 
 business. 
 
 IN AMERICAN HOTELS. 
 
 If the headwaiter of an American hotel 
 is to have time to play the " Mezzofanti," 
 the " Henry," or "Eugene," and go around 
 from table to table chatting and so forth, 
 trying to make every guest feel satisfied, 
 it is evident he must have a lieutenant, a 
 second or assistant headwaiter to remain 
 at the door, and whether for that or other 
 reasons most headwaiters do appoint such 
 an assistant, but not all. Somebody inquir- 
 ing of a trade paper some time back what 
 were the duties of the headwaiter received 
 the following reply, which we will examine 
 and comment upon: 
 
 "A headwaiter's berth in a first-class 
 establishment is no sinecure. The man 
 who accepts it takes upon himself many 
 responsibilities little realised by the pat- 
 rons. He appoints one or more men under 
 him who are called captains. It is their 
 duty to see that the waiters arrive on time 
 each morning and to put the dining room 
 in order for breakfast. The silver, care- 
 fully put away under lock and key at 
 night, is recounted and rubbed with 
 chamois and either placed on the tables or 
 on sideboards in the dining room. The 
 glassware is carefully wiped and polished. 
 The linen is brought up from the laundry 
 and counted to see that it compares with 
 the laundress's account. The chairs and 
 tables are thoroughly cleaned and dusted. 
 Windows and globes must be washed, the 
 butter cut or molded into forms and the 
 castors and salt cellars washed and refilled. 
 Every thing must be in place before the
 
 190 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 arrival of guests. The headwaiter sees at 
 a glance if the work has been properly 
 done. He inspects the castors to see that 
 fresh oil has not been put into cruets hold- 
 ing stale oil. He lectures the men under 
 him, tells them of the complaints made by 
 guests the day before, and warns them not 
 to repeat the offenses. He details each 
 waiter to attend to a certain number of 
 tables, and when the breakfast hour arrives 
 he throws open the great doors of the din- 
 ing room and greets each guest that enters 
 with a familiar good morning. Regular 
 guests who are hard to please come under 
 his personal supervision. The guest who 
 objects to drinking cofiee unless it is pre- 
 pared a certain way and the man who will 
 not eat unless served a dainty not on the 
 regular bill of fare are both made happy by 
 this diplomat. He convinces each guest 
 that they have received a dish which he had 
 prepared for them only, and he tries to 
 convey the idea how few there are who 
 receive the personal attentions of the chief 
 of the dining room. His policy not only 
 pleases but it adds to his bank account." 
 
 The one giving the reply starts in by 
 speaking of the duties in a first-class es- 
 tablishment, yet in several particulars 
 shows that he refers to hotels of the me- 
 dium class. He says, for instance, that the 
 headwaiter details each waiter to attend to 
 a certain number of tables, when it is well 
 known that one waiter cannot attend to 
 any great number of tables, in fact one 
 waiter to one table is the rule. However, 
 in times of dull business, when a few 
 guests come straggling in at intervals, one 
 waiter might attend to two or three tables. 
 
 He says, also, that the headwaiter ap- 
 points one or more men under him who 
 are called captains. In fact, if the head- 
 waiter appoints any captains he will have 
 at least two, one for each watch ; if there 
 are more than two watches of waiters as 
 in a railroad eating house or a cafd there 
 may be there will be a captain over every 
 watch. 
 
 He says again that the windows and 
 globes must be washed, the butter cut or 
 
 moulded into forms and the casters washed 
 and refilled, also the glassware carefully 
 wiped and polished. 
 
 Now, all this is called side work, and it 
 all depends upon what terms the waiters 
 are hired upon whether they do side work 
 or not, or whether they do a certain part 
 and not the other part. In most, if not all, 
 first-class hotels, there are regular window 
 washers outside of the waiters, and the 
 butter is cut and moulded by the pantry 
 girl in the pantry, the glass is washed and 
 polished by another hand in the glass 
 pantry. It is not the intention that the 
 waiters shall have idle times and the less 
 to do, but it is supposed and so managed 
 that they shall have all they can do at 
 their proper business of waiting at table. 
 Moreover, they are required to be scrupu- 
 lously neat and clean and are not expected 
 to do any side work that will soil their 
 clothes. They do, however, count the 
 silver at night under the eye of the captain 
 of the watch, after it has been washed and 
 dried in the glass pantry, and they take it 
 out of the silver closet or safe next morn- 
 ing and polish it before it goes on the 
 tables. They do dust the tables, mirrors, 
 sideboards and chairs, prepare the bowls 
 of broken ice and do all that belongs in the 
 dining room. The remainder of the quo- 
 tation is " all so " and calls for no remark. 
 The motive for commenting upon any of it 
 is to say that stewards, headwaiters or pro- 
 proprietors sending perhaps to a distance for 
 first-class trained waiters and perhaps pre- 
 paying their fares, are liable to be surprised 
 and disappointed when they arrive by their 
 refusal to do "side work." It is not in- 
 tended to say that they ought not to do 
 such work ; merely to let it be known what 
 may be expected of waiters brought on 
 from the most prominent hotels and re- 
 sorts. Here is another quoted paragraph 
 to the point: 
 
 "Mr. F. P. Thomson, whose resignation 
 as headwaiter at the Vendome has already 
 been made known through the columns of 
 tha Boston Hotel Gazette, will during the 
 coming winter manage what is probably to
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 191 
 
 be the largest waiting force of men ever 
 gathered in the hotel business under one 
 head, in his new position as head-head- 
 waiter, so to speak, at the three hotels, 
 Ponce de Leon, Alcazar and Cordova, St. 
 Augustine, Fla. At the first-named hotel, 
 which is to open about Christmas, he will 
 have under him 150 men, at the Alcazar, 
 opening about Thanksgiving time, 50 men, 
 and at the Cordova, to open on January i, 
 75 men. While the majority of these men 
 are to be gathered from Boston, New 
 York and Philadelphia, some of his head 
 assistants have already been engaged." 
 
 It is not likely that any of the above 
 mentioned force of waiters would hire 
 themselves to do "side work" between their 
 hours of table waiting, but an ;ngst the 
 many classed as waiters there may be some 
 specially hired for "side work" employ- 
 ment. At the same time it is to be dis- 
 tinctly understood by waiters that in the 
 great majority of smaller hotels the waiters 
 do and must take off their jackets and di- 
 vide up the work amongst them some fill 
 the castors, some wash glass, others pre- 
 pare the celery for table, mould the butter, 
 clean windows, scrub porches, even help 
 in the garden, gather fruit and peas, and 
 then help in the kitchen by shelling peas, 
 picking strawberries and the like. Then 
 again, they frequently in the advance of 
 the season do all these things in the way 
 of helping to save expenses while the busi- 
 ness is dull, but drop them and quite give 
 up all such work later when they have all 
 they can do in a day to wait on the hun- 
 dreds of guests. These things should be 
 thought of when waiters are engaged and 
 a distinct understanding had in advance. 
 It may save disputes and strikes and quit- 
 ting of much needed help at the busy time 
 when it is hard to replace them with 
 others. 
 
 ORGANIZING THE TROOPS. 
 
 The headwaiter's duties have now been 
 pretty clearly outlined, his relations to the 
 steward and chef having been defined in 
 the first part of this book. And the differ- 
 
 ence betwixt a front view and an inside 
 view may be seen by reference to the ex- 
 tracts concerning the foreign headwaiter, 
 where the writers regard only the person- 
 ality of the particular " Henry " or " Eu- 
 gene," his pleasing presence and his chat, 
 without the least intimation in their re- 
 marks that at the same time "Eugene" is 
 chatting so pleasantly with them at their 
 table, he is thinking, probably, about a 
 waiter at the most remote table in the 
 room, where perhaps a family just arrived 
 has been seated and requires attention, 
 and divide his thoughts with some other 
 critical customer in quite another direction. 
 
 WAITER'S UNIFORMS. 
 
 The first step in organization for the 
 headwaiter is to dress'his waiters all alike 
 they must have jackets, cravats, slippers 
 and aprons. Ordinarily they have only 
 one jacket, a black alpaca with bright 
 buttons, buj in some of the most stylish 
 houses the waiters appear in white jackets 
 at dinner and black at the other two meals. 
 This necessitates their owning two jackets, 
 and puts the laundry work of the jackets 
 upon the hotel. For the waiters have to 
 buy their jackets and own them. The 
 hotel buys a lot of assorted sizes at the 
 manufactories where all sorts of uniforms 
 are made, and each waiter when he hires 
 must buy one of them and pay for it in 
 installments. If the jacket cost four dol- 
 lars the waiter, when his time is made up 
 on the time book, will have one or two 
 dollars of his wages stopped each month 
 till it is paid for. The same thing is done 
 with light patent leather slippers, the hotel 
 buying them by the box and selling to the 
 waiters at cost. White cravats cost but 
 little and are usually furnished free by the 
 hotel, as well as aprons, which both go to 
 the laundry through the same routine as 
 other white goods, to be counted out and 
 counted in each morning, as indicated 
 above. The waiters must provide them- 
 selves with dark-colored or black pants of 
 decent appearance, but at the same time 
 the waiters' aprons are made of such ample
 
 192 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 dimensions they almost entirely cover the 
 wearer down to his bright slippers. 
 
 TELLING OFF THE WATCHES. 
 
 When they are all in uniform the head- 
 waiter draws them up in line like soldiers 
 in the dining room and assorts them ac- 
 cording to size. The two tallest are told 
 off, each to head a watch, then the next 
 two and so an to the shortest, who brings 
 up the rears of the two companies. After 
 that each waiter has his number and al- 
 ways takes the same place in the ranks at 
 the muster before and after each meal. In 
 hotels where there are many waiters they 
 wear their number either on a metal badge 
 or ribbon, one intention of this Is to enable 
 a guest to identify any waiter he may have 
 to make complaint of. 
 
 The captains of the watches are not 
 choosen for their stature, but for their su- 
 perior ability and reliability, their habitual 
 punctuality and steady conduct. They 
 receive one or two dollars per month more 
 than the rank and file and get the best 
 tables to wait on. They take their places 
 at the head of the squad when marching 
 to or from the dining room, except in the 
 case of there being a second headwaiter, 
 when he heads one of the watches and the 
 captain marches in his numbered place in 
 the ranks. 
 
 There are other waiters under the head- 
 waiter's control who do not come into 
 these dining room watches ; they are in the 
 officers' dining rooms, nurses' and child- 
 ren's ordinaries, etc. They generally are 
 required to wear the same uniform and are 
 inspected and governed by the second 
 headwaiter or, in the largest hotels, by the 
 superintendent of the particular depart- 
 ment. In the dining room, if there be fifty 
 tables in use, there will be about that many 
 waiters in line in the two watches. As the 
 business contracts some of the tables will 
 be unused and the waiters are dismissed. 
 In the greater number of hotels the waiters 
 are from twenty to thirty ten to fifteen 
 in a watch. 
 
 WATCH ON WATCH OFF. 
 
 Both watches of waiters wait on the 
 tables every day, but only one watch does 
 the side work, the cleaning, dusting and 
 preparation, the late, last minute waiting; 
 the extra waiting on late arrivals that is, 
 those on watch are never free all dav, but 
 are within call, ready for anything that 
 may occur unusual besides their regular 
 duties, while the others are free between 
 meals, only being required to report in 
 time for their own meals and for inspec- 
 tion. In fact, however, when the hotel is 
 doing a business anywhere near its full 
 capacity the intervals between meals are 
 very short, and the freedom does not 
 amount to more than is necessary for the 
 waiters to attend to their clothing and keep 
 up their respectable and cleanly appearance 
 
 The watch that is "on" to-day will be 
 "off" to-morrow. The object of having 
 captains is to have some one to get the 
 waiters all together. The trifle of author- 
 ity and extra pay bestowed upon the cap- 
 tains makes them zealous and watchful of 
 the others. Common waiters are dilatory 
 and unpunctual ; they may be fined in some 
 places for punishment for being late, but 
 that is poor satisfaction for the head of the 
 dining room when he wants to see every 
 man in his place, and it is better to have a 
 captain interested in hurrying them up. 
 
 The watch that is off to-day has to come 
 early to breakfast. Almost every head- 
 waiter claims the privilege of saying when 
 and how his watches of waiters shall eat 
 their meals, and, besides that, there is so 
 much difference in hotels and their meal 
 times that no rule will hold good for any 
 large number of houses; yet, for example, 
 let us say the "off" watch must be at table 
 to breakfast by six. The " on " watch does 
 not eat until two hours later, but goes to 
 the dining room and there dividing them- 
 selves to the different tasks ; they dust the 
 chairs, etc., get out the silver and place it; 
 place the bills of fare around, bring in 
 water and bowls of broken ice. The butter, 
 cream and fruit are already prepared for 
 them in the pantry. Fifteen minutes be-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK 
 
 193 
 
 fore the time for opening the doors the 
 other watch of waiters must be ready in 
 the hall. The headwaiter makes his ap- 
 pearance and the waiters in sight join those 
 in the hall outside. At the tap of a bell 
 both watches march in in separate squads ; 
 one turns to the right, the other to the left, 
 they march down between the tables and 
 around and form a line, still in separate 
 squads, in front of the headwaiter for his 
 inspections. He then calls the roll and 
 marks who are absent, then notices whether 
 they all have their white cravats on, 
 whether their jackets are whole and well 
 brushed, whether their shoes are free from 
 mud, and then if he has anything to say to 
 them he says it. Next, at the tap of his 
 small silver bell the waiters again face 
 right or left, march between the tables, and 
 each one stops at his own station. Then 
 the dining room doors are thrown open 
 and the meal begins. 
 
 It is the duty of the captains, while wait- 
 ing on their own tables, still to keep a side 
 look out and report breakages, the begin- 
 ning of quarrels and the breaking of vari- 
 ous minor rules and report them, placing 
 the blame upon the real offenders. 
 
 Supposing the dining room doors close 
 at half past nine, then half an hour before 
 that time, or as near that as the circum- 
 stances will permit, the off watch takes 
 charge of all the tables; the captain of the 
 "on" watch passes along and gathers his 
 men and they march in regular order, but 
 quietly, by the outside tables and out to 
 breakfast. Half an hour later they return 
 in the same manner, and a few minutes 
 after, or as soon as the dining room is clear 
 of guests, except perhaps two or three 
 whose waiter remains at his post, the head- 
 waiter taps his bell and both watches march 
 up to the line occupied before breakfast. 
 After a few remarks the chief gives an- 
 other bell tap and the boys file out of the 
 dining room, going through the regular 
 motions between tables as before; the "off" 
 watch goes off until the next meal ; the 
 "on' 1 watch at the sign with the napkin of 
 the captain disbands at the door, peels off 
 
 jackets and goes about cleaning (and 
 thrice a week scrubbing) the dining room 
 and doing the other side work. 
 
 LET THE HKADWAITERS TELL IT. 
 
 There are some things about the head- 
 waiter's position which only the headwait- 
 ers themselves can properly depict, and 
 any one who may be in training for such a 
 responsible situation may find some perti- 
 nent hints in the following: 
 
 " Keeping seats for regular boarders in a 
 hotel dining-room is one of the unpleasant 
 features attached to a head waiter's busi- 
 ness. There are some persons who insist 
 on sitting in one place and who won't sit 
 anywhere else. To keep an eye on these 
 particular boarder's seats and see that no 
 outsiders slip into them keeps a fellow 
 hustling. If some one does happen to gei 
 into one of these coveted seats and the per 
 son who claims it as his own comes in and 
 finds it occupied, there is sure to be a row, 
 and the poor waiter always gets the worst 
 of it. I don't blame a person for wanting 
 to occupy the same seat, but there are times 
 when it is impossible to keep it vacant. 
 For instance, if a party of six or seven 
 come in they have to be seated at one table. 
 At this same table there may be, perhaps, 
 four or five regular boarders' seats, and 
 when the latter come in I have to put them 
 somewhere else. Then they get mad, of 
 course, kick to the proprietor about the 
 "shiftless and unsystematic manner" in 
 which the dining-room is run, and finally 
 the waiter hears from the office. Someti- 
 mes, also a person will slip into the dining- 
 room unnoticed by the waiter, and will 
 drop into a seat nearest him. Once seated 
 it is rather embarrassing to ask him to re- 
 move, although you know that he is occu- 
 pying a seat of some regular boarder who 
 is liable to drop in at any moment. I have 
 known persons to corne into a dining-room 
 and finding their seats occupied, go out 
 again and not come back until it was vacant. 
 I also knew of a case in which a man left 
 the hotel at which he was boarding because 
 on two successive occasions he had entered
 
 194 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 the dining-room and found his seat occu- 
 pied. Women are more particular about 
 their seats than the men. They always 
 want to sit where every one in the dining- 
 room can see them, especially pretty wo- 
 men, or young women that are well dressed. 
 No, a head waiter's life is not a happy one. 
 He stands very little show in getting tipped 
 like the regular waiters, because he cannot 
 be of so much service to the person who 
 wants extra attention in the shape of tender 
 steaks, etc., and who wants to be waited on 
 in apple pie order." 
 
 ANOTHER HEAD-WAITER TALKS. 
 
 "Perhaps you think me wholly ornamental 
 
 A sort of figure-head to carry style; 
 That for use I am not worth a continental 
 
 That I'm only here to wave and scrape and smile. 
 
 "When you come to run a force of fifty waiters, 
 
 Fourteen hours out of every twenty-four. 
 Rushing 'round with plates of beef steak and per- 
 
 taters, 
 
 Feeding cranks who want the earth and some- 
 thing more. 
 
 "You will understand the situation better 
 And allow it's quite an act to carry grace, 
 
 With a waiter who's a kicker and a fretter, 
 And a boarder snarling thunder in your face. 
 
 'Yes, I have to keep the mashers and the ladies 
 In respective corners rather far apart; 
 
 For the husbands sometimes take to raising hades 
 With your uncle, when the masher plies his art. 
 
 "There's the 'reg'lar' from whose little cosy corner 
 I must keep the bumptious transient, if I die; 
 
 Else he bridles up and surely is a 'goner' 
 For the place is as the apple of his eye. 
 
 "There are times when waiters get a trifle 'nervy,' 
 And 'the razors go a flying through the air;* 
 
 This would hint that a head-waiter has to serve a 
 Short apprenticeship to Sullivan or Hyer. 
 
 "At the mountains I'm engaged in the summer 
 season 
 
 And in winter I'm in balmy Flor-id-a; 
 That I'm very fond of sunshine is the reason 
 
 For, j'ou see, sir, that's the time for making hay. 
 
 " 'Do we ever take a tip?" sir, you inquire 
 Well that's a curious thing for you to say 
 
 'Do we sometimes shift the waiters round and try a 
 Little divvy scheme to help to make it pay ?' 
 
 "Why! Of course not! We are hardly what you 
 deem us 
 
 To such little things we never, never stoop. 
 Ah! Indeed, sir! Thank you kindly Mr. Remttt, 
 
 Get the gentleman a warmer plate of soup." 
 
 It is seldom indeed that head waiters are 
 named in print. There are oceans of print 
 about waiters in general, scoldings, abuse, 
 jokes, sarcasms, complaints and lectures, 
 but the general public and the general run 
 of writers do not know that there are head- 
 waiters, and that they have much to do with 
 the conduct of waiters through their good 
 or bad management. Now, having paid 
 my respects to the headwaiters in so many 
 columns, I shall have something to say 
 concerning waiters at home and abroad, 
 and waiters' tips, and a head waiter, who 
 wrote to a newspaper shall introduce the 
 subject: 
 
 "A head waiter referring to a recent edi- 
 torial in this paper writes among other 
 things: 'Waiters are not born, they are 
 just what the head waiter makes them, 
 good or bad ; and what he drills into them 
 whether they become proficient or not. It 
 would be a good idea for headwaiters to 
 adopt Mr. Whitehead's plan and that is, 
 when they take charge of a room they are 
 held responsible for the efficiency of the 
 service, to have it understood that they 
 must hire all of their help, no matter how 
 small the number; if you don't you are 
 liable to make a failure of it. Make it a 
 rule to be particular of the kind of help you 
 hire, and don't take a man who has the name 
 of not staying more than two weeks in 
 one place ; the saying, and it is a true one, 
 'good waiters always tog up, 1 makes it easy 
 to know them. Do not be arbitrary with 
 your men and pay them off on the slightest 
 pretence. Give a good man a chance, and 
 don't have the reputation that a good waiter 
 can't stay with you, and that you dog them 
 around to much. Treat your men courte- 
 ously on the street when you meet them, 
 but don't be one of the crowd on the out- 
 side, as that is just what gets away with 
 you in the room." 
 
 WHAT THE DINING ROOM CHIEF TALKS 
 ABOUT. 
 
 It has been mentioned incidentally that 
 the head waiter has something to say to his 
 men when they are drawn up in a line
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 195 
 
 before him. This is the custom not uni- 
 versally followed. Some headwaiters have 
 little or nothing to say, call it "old-fash- 
 ioned" "don't believe in it" and so on. 
 Others have "the gift of the gab," and love 
 to talk even too well. It seems very 
 sensible, however, for a chief having such 
 a good opportunity before him to remem- 
 ber the faults of service he may have seen 
 or heard of on the previous day, and re- 
 prove and caution his waiters accordingly. 
 The following does not purport to be the 
 straight continuous talk of the speaker, but 
 is a selection of pithy remarks: 
 
 "Mr. GEO. F. BETTS, headwaiter at 
 Young's Hotel, Boston, gives his men a 
 lecture on their duties every Monday 
 morning. These are among the best 
 things he said at a recent lecture: 'The 
 first requirement of a waiter is a gentle- 
 manly bearing. No one but a gentleman 
 can be a good waiter. I want to speak 
 now about this habit of passing around sub- 
 scription papers among the guests in aid of 
 the sick employse. You must stop that. 
 Never beg from anyone but yourselves. 
 Now, in this matter of serving wines, if 
 you don't happen to know what glass to 
 use for a particular wine ask some one. I 
 will gladly tell you. The trouble is that 
 some men can't be told anything, They'll 
 never learn to be waiters. Now, if a per- 
 son orders a pot of coffee, don't bring up 
 cold milk unless it is called for. Bring up 
 hot milk with coffee and cold milk with 
 tea. Always serve pulverized sugar with 
 tomatoes, lettuce and cracked ice with cu- 
 cumbers, tomatoes, watermelon, cantelope, 
 and muskmelon. Berries of course need 
 milk or cream and pulverized sugar. A 
 dessert knife and fork and powdered sugar 
 should go with all pastries, while a small 
 piece of American cheese is in order with 
 all kinds of pie. Many men never think 
 of such a thing as putting mustard on the 
 table. Some people like it. There are 
 very few who have yet learned that a boiled 
 potato is proper with baked beans. Don't 
 cover the bread plate with a napkin. It 
 looks as if there was dust and dirt around. 
 
 This matter of laughing and fooling don't 
 make a waiter. I should stop it. Never 
 chew tobacco and spit on the door mats, 
 and don't gather in groups arond the corri- 
 dors. Sleeping on watches must also be 
 stopped. All cold meats ought to be garn- 
 ished with parsley, lettuce, or celery. Be 
 careful about leaving your side towels 
 around. Another man comes along with 
 something to wipe, and he don't know 
 whether it has been laying there for twenty 
 seconds or twenty years. It is a good plan 
 not to wipe your face with an apron nor 
 towel, nor be too familiar with the proprie- 
 tor. I never allow myself even to drink a 
 glass of lemonade with him. Do your 
 drinking in the proper place. If you don't 
 study these little things you'll always be 
 down, as sure as you're born. Always re- 
 member that I'm the boss, too. I'm hired to 
 be headwaiter, and I mean to act it out. If 
 I refuse to excuse any man for the day 
 don't make the mistake of going to the 
 Captain, because I'm ahead of the Captain. 
 Never open a boiled egg for a customer 
 unless ordered. If you see that a guest of 
 the house wishes to be waited on by a par- 
 ticular man with whom he is acquainted, 
 always give way politely and without con- 
 fusion. A waiter should always keep his 
 eyes cast toward the door instead of out of 
 the window. Be careful in serving any 
 kind of 'fizz' wines to pour them out care- 
 fully. In serving old wines never wipe off 
 the dust from the bottle. Never wipe off 
 the label, and be sure to show the label to 
 the gentleman, in order that there may be 
 no mistake. You are all supposed to wear 
 dark pants, with white apron and necktie. 
 No colored shirts are allowed. Your boots 
 must be blacked from this day out. You 
 are excused." 
 
 Another chief indicates his ideas of a 
 talk in training waiters as follows: 
 
 "What constitutes a good waiter? A 
 good disposition ; a thorough knowledge of 
 his duties, with the quality of being polite, 
 attentive and obliging at all times and 
 under all circumstances; a correct idea as 
 to coursing and serving dinner parties, in-
 
 196 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 eluding the different wines which go with 
 each course. Neatness and cleanliness are 
 indeed necessary passports, and argue 
 strongly in a waiters favor when applying 
 for a position. Waiteis are often judged, or 
 as the expression goes, 'sized up,' by their 
 personal appearance, thus 'the apparel oft 
 bespeaks the man,' and nine times out of 
 ten secures him a position. First-class 
 waiters take great pride in their toilet ; spot- 
 less linens are pre-eminently one of the 
 first requisites. Hair nicely combed, cravat 
 neatly tied and adjusted, shoes brightly 
 polished (shoes without heels; I am op- 
 posed to slippers), and clean aprons and 
 clean towels; also short and clean finger- 
 nails; supposing jackets and trousers to be 
 black or of a dark color, corresponding one 
 with the other, and no rents in them, a 
 waiter is presentable and qualified, so far 
 as his uniform is concerned, for service. 
 Nothing worries and frets the headwaiter 
 more than to see a waiter come sneaking 
 into the dining room five or ten minutes 
 after the doors are open. A good 'time- 
 maker' is a prize to the headwaiter. Every 
 waiter in all well-regulated dining rooms, 
 should be at his station ten minutes before 
 the door opens, and inspect his table, see if 
 everything is in its place, properly arranged 
 and perfectly clean. A good waicer is al- 
 ways pleasant, agreeable and affable; al- 
 ways strives to please, and spares no pains 
 in his efforts to give entire satisfaction. A 
 good waiter will never contradict or hold a 
 dispute with aguest,notwithstanding he msy 
 be right and the guest wrong. Whether 
 he has made an error or not, he will 
 invariably 'plead guilty to the charge,' and 
 exonerate or excuse himself in such a 
 manner as will be pleasing and not of- 
 fensive. 
 
 "The most important feature in waiting 
 is to serve an order according to order 
 no more, no less. If a guest orders for 
 breakfast fried potatoes, breakfast bacon, 
 soft-boiled eggs, coffee and rolls, just that 
 number of dishes should be served and no 
 more, and no first-class waiter claiming to 
 understand his business will bring one 
 
 dish over. A good and intelligent waiter 
 keeps himself posted as to the contents of 
 the bill of fare, so as to readily give the 
 name or explanation of any dish thereon, 
 if necessary. A good u.emory is highly 
 essential in the make-up of a good waiter, 
 and none can properly be classed as such 
 with a defective memory. There is noth- 
 ing more provoking to a guest than to 
 order poached eggs and be served with 
 soft-boiled eggs, or to order roast beef and 
 be served with mutton, or to ask for 
 coffee and get tea. 
 
 "A good and conscientious waiter will 
 not try to bring in the entire kitchen for 
 the purpose of extracting the paltry fcum 
 of twenty-five cents from a guest. A 
 first-class, painstaking and duty-bound 
 waiter can and will accomplish this with- 
 out resorting to such methods of extrava- 
 gance, which are so detrimental to both 
 his and his employer's interests. -He is 
 polite, attentive and obliging; courteous, 
 accommodating and patient; fast, prompt 
 and clean, when serving a party. These 
 are the qualities that enhance his chances 
 for obtaining a fee, and when he obtains it 
 under t'.-ese circumstances he has the 
 satisfaction of knowing he obtained it 
 solely on his merits as a first-class waiter." 
 
 WAITERS' DRILL FOR A BANQUET. 
 
 Perhaps there is no need of argument to 
 show the advantage of such a moderate 
 amount of daily drilling, as has been de- 
 scribed but a few pages back. It has the 
 same use for a body of waiters that it has 
 for a body of police or firemen ; it keeps 
 them compact, makes them regular in 
 habits, makes them manageable, gives the 
 head man a grip upon them. It would be 
 useful were it only for the muster and roll 
 call to let him know they are all there. It 
 is very easy to ' run such a thing in the 
 ground," as the saying is, and as nothing 
 ever escapes the funny men of the news- 
 papers we have here an amusingly ex- 
 aggerated sketch from an English banquet- 
 ing place: 
 
 " There was nothing of an extraordinary
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 197 
 
 character about the dinner itself, but quite 
 unusual pains were taken to drill the army 
 of waiters engaged thereat into a proper 
 knowledge of their respective duties. The 
 following unique and novel handbill, pre- 
 sumably distributed to them by some grim, 
 scar-disfigured, veteran half-pay sergeant, 
 was handed to each of the knights of the 
 napkin prior to his undertaking the onerous 
 and responsible duties of waiting upon the 
 Gas Institute: 
 
 REGULATIONS FOR GAS INSTITUTE 
 DINNER. 
 
 Waiters will be divided into two classes, namely, 
 Entree Men and Vegetable Men. 
 
 ENTREE MEN will be distinguished by wearing a 
 red ribbon in their left button holes, and Vege- 
 table Men by a white ribbon. 
 
 WINE STEWARDS will wear a blue and o.ange ro- 
 sette on the top of their left shoulder. All wine 
 to be paid for when fetched; money advanced for 
 this purpose at the hotel office. 
 
 SUPERINTENDENTS will wear white waistcoats, and 
 control their tables; when quite ready for a course, 
 they will signify it by holding up their right 
 hands. 
 
 TABLES are divided into separate divisions; each 
 table is numbered alphabetically (A B C), and 
 will have a special staff appointed under the 
 charge of a superintendent. Waiters are re- 
 quested to pay special attention to his orders. 
 
 ROLL CALL in the vestibule at 1.30, when each man 
 must be present to answer to his name, he will 
 then be shown his position at table, and receive 
 his badge, after whir h he will at once take his 
 position until reviewed. All waiters to be in 
 their places at 3 p.m., to assist the guests to their 
 seats. 
 
 DINNER SERVICE regulated by the sound of the 
 gong. At the first sound waiters at once stand 
 to atlention ; at the second sound to proceed to 
 their respective serving tables and commence the 
 course. 
 
 SOUP. At the second sound of the gong all wait- 
 ers will advance to their serving tables and serve 
 soup. 
 
 All waiters change plates. 
 
 FISH. At the second sound of the gong proceed as 
 above; vegetable men must then leave the room 
 and secure their vegetables. Each man will have 
 a dish of peas, beans and potatoes. Entree men 
 clear away dirty plates. 
 
 JOINTS. Entree men only serve joints; vegetable 
 men to serve only vegetables and bread. 
 
 SWEETS. Hot pudding and sweets served together, 
 from the serving tables, by all waiters. All 
 change plates. 
 
 CHEESE. Entree men serve cheese and biscuits, 
 and yegetable men lettuce and butter. 
 
 N. B. Immediately after dessert plates are passed 
 round, and all dirty plates and silver removed, 
 all waiters (except wine stewards) are to leave 
 the room and attend to their respective duties, 
 arranged by the headwaiter. 
 
 SERVICE PORTERS to bring in plates, meats, soups, 
 etc., and to clear their respective serving tables 
 after each course. During service of fish and 
 joints, one porter to remain at each carving table 
 to serve gravy, etc." 
 
 "A Liverpool journal of the semi-satir- 
 ical order, called the Porcupine, has the 
 following amusing commentary on these 
 singular regulations: 
 
 "The military spirit having been thus 
 introduced into attendance upon public 
 banquets, we do not see why it should not 
 be considerably developed. It would cer- 
 tainly add immensely to the excitement of 
 the dinner table, and remove in a great 
 measure the ennui and monotony so often 
 expecienced when waiting for the various 
 courses, if a stalwart drill-instructor in full 
 regimentals and ablaze with military deco- 
 rations, were to stand in a conspicuous 
 plrce, sound the assembly and, in stentorian 
 accents, put the waiters through their fac- 
 ings something after the following style; 
 
 "Hawn tree wait er-r-rs! at tintion! 
 Vege tarble wait er-r-rs! heyesfa runtl 
 
 " Shoul der-r-r nap kins! 
 
 "Vege tarble wait-er-r-sl present ar- 
 rums for the soup and fall in! 
 
 "Hawn-tree waiters! Standatease! 
 
 with the ladle! 
 
 "Vege tarble wait er-r-rs! For rum 
 
 squa-a-re! Char-r-r-ge with the new 
 
 perta ties ! 
 
 "Hawn tree wait er-r-rs! for rum 
 fourdeepin-echelons ! Left har-raf fa-a-a-cel 
 for the biled mutton! 
 
 "Vege tarble wait er-r-rs! Slop ar- 
 
 rums! Doub bl-bl-ble for the sparrer- 
 
 grass! 
 
 "Hawn tree wait er-r-rs! Byyourri- 
 i-i-ght quick mar rarch for the goose- 
 berry tarts! 
 
 " Wait er-r-rs ! At tintion I Gur-r- 
 round dessert plates!
 
 198 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 " By your cen trrrr-re left wheeeeel 
 
 to the kitchen! 
 
 " ' God save the hieen ' on the gong?' 
 When we are done laughing with the 
 newspaper, and at it, we may turn back 
 and find a most t-xcellent example in the 
 said handbill, even if it be on a somewhat 
 exaggerated scale. For service is all-im- 
 portant to the success of a banquet. The 
 waiters gathered together for such an oc- 
 casion are likely to be a mixed lot and 
 many of them as green as they can be, and 
 some such resolute measures for making 
 them know exactly what to do and when 
 are quite necessary to avert confusion and 
 failure. A number of examples of catering 
 on a grand scale have been given in pre- 
 vious pages and not one of them mentions 
 the very important particular, how the 
 waiters were made to understand each one 
 his particular duties on the occasion, and 
 the " regulations " above exhibited convey 
 a very perspicacious guide for all such 
 emergencies. The same paper says: "The 
 waiters at Young's Hotel, Boston, have 
 been 'uniformed' in spotless white, and 
 must cut rather a queer figure. The ' cap- 
 tains ' and head waiters are, it appears, ar- 
 rayed in dress coats of white flannel." 
 
 WHO ARE THE BEST WAITERS? 
 
 The question is often asked, but only for 
 amusement or to gratify some prejudice 
 by a specious answer. It must be a very 
 unsatisfactory sort of generalization to say 
 that waiters of this nationality or that are 
 the best, or one race or another. When- 
 ever there is one most excellent waiter of 
 any particular nationality, another one can 
 be found to match him of some other race 
 or people. It is not race so much as train- 
 ing. One of the very best waiters I have 
 ever known was a Mexican, but I shall 
 not sav the Mexicans are the best waiters 
 on that account. This one had been trained 
 as a valet to a traveling nobleman, had 
 been half around the world and spoke sev- 
 eral languages ; that is how he came to be 
 such a good waiter when he had to take 
 up restaurant work. 
 
 Waiters are a good deal as the various 
 headwaiters they woik under make them. 
 Left alone, waiters in general are like boys 
 in school without a master. They take 
 small liberties and seek their own pleasures 
 and interest?, and if that is allowed they 
 take greater liberties; they run away with 
 the house. Waiters have to be restrained, 
 they have to feel authority over them. 
 Most of them then are so docile and well 
 behaved the authority has scarcely ever to 
 be exerted, they do right without compul- 
 sion. But in every crowd there are bad 
 boys. Some of the bad waiters will stop 
 when they meet in the hall with some- 
 body's breakfast or dinner on their trays 
 and throw dice for the drinks on the floor, 
 until they hear the steps of the next one 
 coming, and then, for fear it may be some- 
 body in authority, they continue their jour- 
 ney to the dining room. Such as these 
 are dropped out as fast as they are found 
 out; so are they that drink and use foul 
 language ; those who fail to come up to the 
 other requirements of good waiters, also 
 the weak and sickly ones who are not to 
 be relied upon, and in that way it comes 
 there is a dining room full of picked wait- 
 ers, and whatever nation or race they may 
 be it seems as if they must be the best in 
 the world, because there cannot be any 
 better. But the headwaiter who sees sights 
 is he that has to gather up all these culls 
 and castaways to open a resort hotel with, 
 all the good waiters being already engaged. 
 
 There is another way to answer the 
 question, who are the best waiters? that 
 seems to be not often thought of. The best 
 waiters for this country are they that know 
 the least about the compulsory fourboire 
 or tip system of European countries, which 
 has grown to be one of the greatest abuses 
 of the day, a galling tyranny that cannot 
 be shaken off. A newspaper was not long 
 ago started in France with no other object 
 but to try to put down the compulsory tip 
 system ; it was called the Anti-Pourboire, 
 and the waiters turned out several thousand 
 strong and put it down, prevented its being 
 sold, mobbed the carriers, mobbed the
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 199 
 
 newsstands that took it for sale and extin- 
 guished the paper. 
 
 On the other hand, some four or five 
 years ago the waiters of New York orga- 
 nized for a purpose quite opposite the Pa- 
 risian waiters'; they organized to fight the 
 tip system the waiters themselves on this 
 side wanted to do away with tips! How 
 was that? 
 
 That move was taken because there are 
 more than the waiters concerned in the 
 abuse of tips. It has got to such a pitch in 
 France, England and all over Europe that 
 the waiters get no pay in some places, but 
 have to work for the tips they will extract 
 from the customers ; in some places where 
 the chances are poor they get small wages; 
 but in others where the chances are good, 
 where the customers are mostly wealthy 
 people, where a good many American 
 tourists stop and throw money around 
 loosely ! .n such places the waiters not 
 only work for nothing, so far as wages are 
 concerned, but they even pay for the privi- 
 lege of working ; give the proprietor thirty 
 per cent, of the tips they receive and con- 
 tribute another portion to pay for the 
 breakage that takes place in the establish- 
 ment. There are a good many places in 
 New ( York where waiters are employed, 
 whose proprietors are of the same class 
 with the same ideas as the restaurant, cafe* 
 and hotel keepers over the water and they 
 wanted to do the same ways ; wanted the 
 waiters to work without wages and live 
 on their tips; but the waiters liked the old 
 way best and struck against the attempt to 
 change it. That is why they were in favor 
 of putting down tipping. Of course, they 
 all knew that tipping would go on as it al- 
 ways does in this country, in a free-will 
 manner; they struck against making it 
 compulsory for a guest to give them some- 
 thing or else be ill-served, asked for a fee 
 and made to feel small and uncomfortable 
 by them. 
 
 WAITERS' WAGES AND TIPS. 
 
 Those New York waiters, no matter 
 what race or nation they were of, " knew 
 
 which side their bread was buttered on," 
 as the old saying is, for while tipping goes 
 on quite liberally in this country if it is left 
 to the givers; that is, if Americans are let 
 alone and allowed to give tips as favors to 
 those they like and want to reward, they 
 would hardly yield so much if the waiters 
 were compelled to take on the eager, 
 hungry, anxious look, and had to touch 
 their caps and hold out their hands in order 
 to make wages out of their jobs, because 
 that is not the way of this country, and 
 would make the tip seem like a debt to be 
 paid instead of a favor bestowed, and it 
 would not be very generally submitted to. 
 A little way back there is a quoted para- 
 graph concerning a number of waiters go- 
 ing to the large hotels in Florida, and the 
 same paper says further down: "The 
 salaries for waiters are to be $25 per month, 
 with an addition of $4 on the basis of the 
 premium system. They will probably 
 leave the North in a special car in No- 
 vember." 
 
 We all know about how wages run, but 
 it is well enough to let somebody else say 
 it, too. That is first-class wages paid for 
 first-class waiters. The common rate for 
 summer resort waiters averages $18 per 
 month; that is, the range is from $15 to 
 $20. In the generality of hotels between 
 seasons or for all-the-year jobs, waiters are 
 hired as low as $12 per month, or from 
 that to $15. In any of these places the 
 waiter hopes he will make something be- 
 sides, every waiter expects to make some- 
 thing, yet it is very uncommon for the one 
 who engages them to talk about tips as a 
 part of the bargain, or to make a business 
 of the tip question. Of course, this does 
 not refer to restaurants in the eastern cilies 
 which have foreign proprietors and waiters 
 following their own ways, but to the gen- 
 erality of hotels and restaurants all over 
 the states. The probable tips may be 
 thought about, but there is no sort of pro- 
 mise made to the waiter that he will get 
 any, and no advantage to the proprietor if 
 he does. And still the tips secured by good 
 and lucky waiters amount to something
 
 200 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 considerable. Here Is a waiter at work 
 who is sure of a steady tip every week: 
 
 CHERUBS AT THE HOTELS. 
 
 There is something uncanny about these 
 mature children of the town. I was at the 
 Windsor Hotel at dinner with some friends 
 a short time ago when a pompous little 
 woman strode down the long dining room, 
 followed by two little girls, hand in hand. 
 Neither of them was more than 9 years 
 old. They settled themselves in their 
 chairs, folded their skinny little hands, and 
 then proceeded to stare about them and 
 comment upon their fellow-diners. The 
 elder of the two children, after looking in- 
 tently at a maiden lady of rather noticeable 
 attire at an adjoining table, turned to her 
 mother and said composedly: 
 
 " What a really startling old frump that 
 is, mamma?" 
 
 "Which one, dear?" asked the strict dis- 
 ciplinarian of a mother. 
 
 "That cheerful guy beside the bald- 
 headed man over there." t 
 
 " Oh, yes," said the mother, with a well- 
 bred smile, "I've seen her before. But 
 don't be so slangy, Marion. Have more 
 tone. Order your dinner now and see that 
 you let puree and lamb alone. It's too rich 
 for you." Then to the waiter: "Take her 
 order, Auguste." 
 
 The waiter leaned obsequiosly over the 
 child, who was studying the menu with a 
 frown on her little face. 
 
 "No soup, Ogeest," she said intently, 
 'but a bit of weakfish with egg sauce, an' 
 a kidney omelette not flat, you know, but 
 nice and puffy and artichokes " 
 
 "Ver' sorry, Mees Maryon, but there is 
 no arti " 
 
 "There, I thought so," said the girl, 
 slamming the card down on the table and 
 biting her thin lips. " It's the most pro- 
 
 roking thing! Whenever I set my heart 
 
 
 
 
 
 " We have some green corn " 
 
 " Eat it yourself 1 " said the child in a 
 
 huff. 
 
 The waiter was quite unmoved. He 
 seemed to be accustomed to such ebulli- 
 tions of temper and went on suavely taking 
 the orders of the others, while Miss Marion 
 sat the picture of overdressed, pampered 
 and pouting discontent. 
 
 Now, whoever wrote that piece for the 
 newspaper was thinking about the poor 
 little children, wanting to train them for 
 their mother, but we will just take notice 
 of " Ogeest." He has got as good a thing 
 as he wants for one table and never gives 
 a second thought to the behavior of any- 
 body. He will get what that family wants 
 if he has to beg for it in the kitchen, coax 
 for it, buy it, steal it; and every Sunday or 
 Monday morning he finds "Mees Mar- 
 yon's" little hand held out to him with a 
 five dollar bill, probably, or two or three 
 silver dollars, at least, and when the family 
 goes away there will be a parting fee of 
 larger amount. If "Ogeest" is fortunate 
 enough to have four such parties to wait 
 on and get his American plan wages be- 
 sides, he is certainly doing very well. And 
 he doesn't care whether the children are 
 well-trained or not. But some young men 
 are so constituted that they cannot take 
 such "sass" without resenting it in some 
 way. Perhaps they have not been raised 
 right. Anyway they are not adapted to be 
 waiters. 
 
 Contrast the fat condition of the waiters 
 thus far mentioned with those of the Edin- 
 burgh, Scotland, International Exhibition, 
 a couple of years ago. The waiters en- 
 gaged to pay the resfreshment contractor 
 ten shillings ($2.50) a week each for the 
 privilege of working for him without 
 wages, and then he printed in his bill of 
 fare that the prices there set down in- 
 cluded attendance, which meant nothing for 
 the waiters. Here it is as it appeared in a 
 newspaper, but without the long bill of 
 fare, which is unnecessary: 
 
 ROUGH ON THE WAITERS. The head- 
 waiter at one of the Edinburgh hotels sends 
 us a rather indignant protest against the 
 terms on which his brethren are engaged 
 at the Exhibition now open in the Modern
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 201 
 
 Athens. He points out that the conditions 
 under which the waiters work leave them 
 but one alternative if they are to make a 
 living at all, and that is to overcharge the 
 public. The refreshment contractor, it ap- 
 pears, receives a weekly payment from 
 each waiter, and yet makes attendance an 
 inclusive charge in his catering tariff. Un- 
 less liberally tipped they are likely to be 
 losers, and their chances of pocketing fees 
 are to a great extent extinguished by the 
 intimation that attendance is included in 
 the bill. Scotchmen, who of course con- 
 stitute the great majority of visitors to the 
 Exhibition, will probably find this intima- 
 tion very comforting, and will scarcely see 
 the force of paying twice for services ren- 
 dered. We subjoin the form of agreement 
 subscribed to by the waiters : 
 
 "I, ........ , hereby engage myself as 
 
 waiter to you at the International Exhibi- 
 tion of Industry, Science and Art, Edin- 
 burgh, 1886, and to pay to you, for the 
 privilege of serving you, ten shillings per 
 week, at the end of each week. I will re- 
 ceive my food at the Exhibition on every 
 lawful day, when open, but I will provide 
 and pay for my own lodgings, and for my 
 food on Sundays. I will make good any 
 breakages in my department, also any cut- 
 lery or plate that may be lost or damaged, 
 and will be entitled in my own name to 
 recover from customers any breakages 
 which they may be responsible for. All 
 sums recovered for breakages shall be spe- 
 cially set apart in a box to be provided 
 therefore, and paid over to you when re- 
 quired. I will be liable to dismissal on a 
 moment's notice, without reason assigned 
 or compensation given, and I will be en- 
 titled to leave on a days notice, having first 
 accounted to you for breakages and any 
 moneys that may be due by me. Witness 
 my hand this .... day of .......... " 
 
 That is the condition of affairs which the 
 New York waiters banded together to keep 
 out of this country; but the Parisian wait- 
 ers fought to uphold it, for the simple reason 
 that there was no hope for them to get 
 
 wages, and if the tips which they depend 
 on were abolished they would starve. So 
 we will say again, the best waiters for this 
 country are those who have the least of the 
 old-country tip system in them. 
 
 LONDON WAITERS. 
 
 The waiters over there have a good way 
 of not despising small tips. Little sums 
 and a good many of them are what counts 
 up big at last. The way it is here one per- 
 son will give perhaps half a dollar, then a 
 dozen others will go out without giving 
 anything because they cannot afford to 
 give a half and they are ashamed to offer 
 less, they think perhaps the waiter will 
 Insult them if they offer small change, so 
 they don't give anything. A London 
 waiter tells his experience, which shows 
 that even pennies count up in a week. He 
 was a "greeny " in some respects, though 
 he had a good idea abojut waiting. He got 
 into a small restaurant where there were 
 only two waiters, himself and another. He 
 went for sixty cents a week wages and 
 "what he could pick up" and his dinner. 
 Sixty cents a week is so near nothing it 
 would seem like a mistake was made in 
 telling it, if we did not know that many of 
 them go to work for no wages at all and 
 pay the proprietor besides. Even in this 
 cheap restaurant it was the custom for each 
 person that ate dinner or lunch to pay the 
 waiter two cents " for service," and some 
 paid three cents. They were not really 
 obliged to pay it, but it is the custom of the 
 country and most of them did in this res- 
 taurant. The green fellow soon found out 
 that his partner was playing sharp on him, 
 letting this one do the waiting and he went 
 around and collected the pay and kept all 
 the tips. After they had had a fight ovei 
 that they agreed to divide the dining room, 
 one took one side, one the other. It ap- 
 pears they served about 100 dinners a day, 
 besides the other meals and lunches, thaf 
 was 50 customers apiece, and if each one 
 gave the waiter an English penny, which 
 is two cents, that made them a dollar a day 
 apiece, or seven dollars a week. And the
 
 203 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 one telling it says they did do as well as 
 that, for when he got his rights and his 
 partner could not cheat him, he says his 
 pay amounted to twenty-five English shil- 
 lings a week, which is over six dollars. 
 That is not much wages, but it shows how 
 small tips make a considerable sum in a 
 week ; they make more than the odd quar- 
 ters and halves do that only come from a 
 few. 
 
 American tourists generally are ashamed 
 to give small tips, this is the way they do: 
 
 "The American tourists who invade 
 England every summer are in the habit of 
 carrying back a grievance which is largely 
 of their own creation. At every turn one 
 meets them complaining that 'in England 
 one has to give so much money to all the 
 servants it's perfectly dreadful,' while 
 they themselves are the only people who 
 ever do anything of the kihd. The well- 
 traveled London correspondent of the 
 Chicago Tribune makes the following re- 
 marks on the pretentious liberality of his 
 countrymen, which hotel-keepers who are 
 brought so intimately in contact with them 
 will read without surprise: 
 
 I have known an American lady who 
 gave the man who tended the hotel lift 
 half a crown daily and half a sovereign 
 weekly. I knew a vulgar old American 
 who gave gold to every servant on all occa- 
 sions. And then, after making fools of 
 themselves in that way, they go home and 
 report that the Prince of Wales and the 
 Archbishop of Canterbury are the only 
 two men in England who will not take a 
 tip. I have heard of an American who, 
 when on the steamlwat at Liverpool about 
 to return to America, thus addressed the 
 assembled crowd: 'Gentlemen, if there is 
 one of you to whom I have not given a 
 shilling I wish that he would hold up his 
 hand.' But it was very filly of him. I 
 have lived eleven years in England, I know 
 both English and American society fairly 
 well, and I can assure the untraveled 
 Yankee that he need not give away a six- 
 pence in the year more in one country 
 than in the other. It is only where the 
 
 raw, green Americans have been that the 
 servants are spoiled in this respect and 
 made grasping and overfamlliar." 
 
 But Americans are not the only ones. 
 
 "The following clipping is from the jour- 
 nal known as Men and Women : 'The busi- 
 ness of a waiter at the Star and Garter, at 
 Richmond, must be a somewhat profitable 
 occupation if there are many guests like 
 Mr. Henry Irving, who, on the frequent 
 occasions on which he dines there, tips the 
 waiter with a sovereign. This came out at 
 the Wandsworth County Court a few days 
 ago, when one of the waiters at that famous 
 hostelry sued a brother of the napkin for 
 refusing to go halves with him in the mag- 
 nificent 'tip' bestowed by Mephistopheles." 
 
 It was in London that ten thousand wai- 
 ters replied to one advertisement which 
 shows that there are all classes and styles 
 of waiters there, and tens of thousands that 
 learn waiting as a trade and follow it up 
 all their lives. 
 
 Some way back may be found descrip- 
 tions of the ways of checking and paying 
 in various places, but the London restau- 
 rant system has not yet been mentioned, it 
 is this: 
 
 THE LONDON CHECK SYSTEM. 
 
 "When a waiter enters the service of the 
 principal London restrarateurs he has to 
 bring with him ten dollars for 'working 
 money,' as it is called. He pays this in to 
 the cashier and gets ten dollars worth of 
 meal checks for it. Whatever is ordered he 
 pays for at the kitchen with checks. He is 
 provided with a blank tablet which has 
 manifold or copying paper between the 
 leaves, and thus writing the bills in dupli- 
 cate, he tears one out and gives it to the 
 customer, and receives the customers mo- 
 ney, and the copy remains in the book. 
 
 When business is over for the day, the 
 waiter takes his book containing the dupli- 
 cate bills to the office, together with what- 
 ever remaining checks he has; the totals 
 of the different bills are then added up, and 
 the grand total must correspond with the 
 amount of checks used by him during the
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 203 
 
 day Should the total be more than the 
 checks, the inference is that he has over- 
 charged somebody, and he must immedi- 
 ately refund, whatever the amount is, to 
 the firm or leave. He, of course, generally 
 chooses the former alternative. If, on the 
 other hand, the total should be anything 
 less, he has the satisfaction of knowing 
 that he has lost it, and supposing either 
 that somebody has gone without paying 
 their bill when his back has been turned, 
 that he has given too much in change, or 
 that, in the rush of business he has given a 
 three-shilling check for a threepenny, 
 which, seeing they are marked pretty much 
 alike, is not improbable. Three shillings 
 and sixpence (nearly $1.00) per week is 
 charged each man for glass breakage, and 
 the firm I speak of pay no salary to wait- 
 ers; indeed, few restaurateurs ^o, and 
 where they do it is but a mere pittance. 
 What a waiter mainly depends on for his 
 living is his tips. His makings, assuming 
 that he works fifteen hours, average as a 
 rule from five to seven shillings per day 
 ($1.25 to $1.75) and considering the great 
 disadvantages under which he labors, and 
 remembering that he has to bear a smiling 
 front through it all, this is not after all such 
 a fabulous sum. Of course it is only right, 
 and proper too, that a large firm like the 
 one I have spoken of should have such 
 strict rules; but I have shown that the 
 waiter's lot, any more than the policeman's 
 is not always a happy one. 
 
 THE "TWO BY FOUR." 
 
 By the return call of the electrical 
 system, with tiny bells, the guest can tele- 
 graph all ordinary orders to the kitchen 
 and receive answers both of the sonorous 
 and the solid sort with the speed of light- 
 ning. 
 
 It is a mistake, however, to suppose that 
 there is anything in this more like magic 
 than the practice of the most expert of 
 human waiters at the great resorts, where 
 waiters as well as guests are counted by the 
 hundreds, and therefore cannot be individ 
 ually known nor very perfectly watched. 
 
 It is doubtful if the new automatic waiter 
 will ever come up to the sleight-of-hand pro 
 ficiency of the human waiters who do such 
 neat tricks as that which they call the two- 
 by-four, by which they sell the employer's 
 goods for him and returning perhaps 
 the cost price, patting all the profit in their 
 own pockets, and make the employer think 
 that he has been watching them at the 
 same time, exactly as a slight-of-hand per- 
 former does upon the stage; and this is only 
 one of the many tricks which the automatic 
 waiter can never do. In a large restaurant 
 the waiters must buy with their own money 
 the dishes ordered at their tables, paying 
 for them at the cashier's desk, half way 
 between the dining-room and the kitchen. 
 Spring ckickens are charged at seventy-five 
 cents for single orders, but two orders are 
 $1.25 and four orders at once are $2.50. The 
 waiter goes to the kitchen with four dishes 
 and orders four chikckens, gets them, and 
 starts for the cashier's desk, but when he 
 arrives there he has only two chickens; he 
 shows them, pays for two, and starts for 
 the dining-room. When he gets there he 
 has four chickens, as he had when he left 
 the kitchen. He sells them and clears 
 $1.25 by the opera'ion. Like all those 
 conjuring tricks it is easy enough when one 
 knows how it is done. In the first passage 
 the waiter sticks a chicken in each breast 
 of his jacket and turns the empty dishes 
 upside down on the remaining two on his 
 tray, "to keep them warm, because his 
 customer ordered them so," and in that 
 style appears at the cashier's desk. In the 
 next passage he replaces all as they were 
 before. 
 
 AMERICAN HOTEL CHECK SYSTEM. 
 
 A novel check on both visitor and waiter 
 is in use at one of the American hotels. 
 On entering the dining room a boy hands 
 the guest a card, upon which are printed 
 amounts up to about $2.00. On one cor- 
 ner is the consecutive number stamped 
 upon it by an automatic numbering ma- 
 chine. When the visitor gives his order, 
 this ticket is taken away by the waiter, and
 
 204 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 when the latter receives his order at the 
 kitchen the card is returned to him with the 
 amount punched out. If anything extra 
 is ordered, another sum, representing the 
 aggregate of the two orders, is punched 
 out, and the customer pays the total sum 
 punched at the desk. The consecutive 
 numbering denotes the day of issue. 
 
 PARIS WAITERS. 
 
 There was another thing the Paris waiters 
 went out on strike about besides the Anti- 
 Pourboire newspaper. It appears that they 
 all go to employment offices when they 
 are out of work and have to pay to register 
 and pay for a job when they get it. They 
 found out that hundreds of small employ- 
 ers, stewards and headwaiters were going 
 shares in these fees, and would discharge 
 their waiters frequently without cause, 
 only to make a profit out of the fees the 
 new waiters would have to pay to get the 
 jobs. They struck against working in any 
 of these houses or letting others go in. 
 When that trouble was settled they formed 
 waiters' associations, where employers 
 could apply when they wanted help, and 
 paid no more fees to employment agents. 
 While they were out on strike indeed they 
 made the abolition of the employment of- 
 fices one of their demands, and, like the 
 New York waiters, they wanted the es- 
 tablishment of regular wages for waiters, 
 and not have to depend on what they could 
 " pick up." They complained that besides 
 not being paid any wages they were only 
 allowed to keep one-third of the tips given 
 them, the proprietor getting one-third di- 
 rect and another third was taken from 
 them to pay breakages; no matter who did 
 the breaking the tip money had to pay for 
 it This system is too deep rooted, how- 
 ever, and the waiters did not succeed in 
 breaking it up. It began long time ago in 
 the palmy days of the Palais Royal gar- 
 dens when the crush was so great that 
 waiters made perfect fortunes, and in con- 
 Bequence the proprietors, turning this to 
 advantage, sold the waiters jobs at from 
 $400 to $1,000 per year, and still the wait- 
 
 ers realized splendid competencies. But 
 that time is past. Such times occur at 
 some of our pleasure resorts, when the 
 waiters find greenbacks plenty for a short 
 time, but it only lasts a few weeks. 
 
 DISCIPLINE IN PARIS RESTAURANTS. 
 
 'The discipline of the waiters at the Caf 
 de la Paix is very strict. Every waiter 
 has to be at roll-call at 7.30 a. m. under 
 pain of lod. fine for every five minutes he 
 is late. Boots may not be worn by any 
 waiter in the establishment. It is forbidden 
 under pain of dismissal or a heavy fine to 
 give change to a customer in instalments. 
 The maitre d'hOtel has the right to satisfy 
 himself by calling at the residence af a 
 waiter who may claim dispensation on the 
 p'eaof tickness, whether the man is really 
 ill or not. Each waiter has to pay $1.00 
 on every $20 worth of drinks he takes, as 
 a percentage on the four-boires. Waiters 
 have a holiday,_/0r de sortie, every fort- 
 night. The tables are alotted according to 
 their business value in order of their seni- 
 ority. Every new waiter, or any waiter 
 returning to work at this cafe after absence 
 has to begin at the bottom and gets the 
 worst tables. These are some of the regu- 
 lations at this cafe", and that they are good, 
 if strict, is proved by the admirable discip- 
 line that obtains there." 
 
 ACCOMMODATING WAITERS, 
 
 " It is a remarkable characteristic of the 
 waiters in Paris restaurants that, no matter 
 what anyone asks for, even if it should be 
 "a fried piece of the moon," those gentle- 
 man-like attendants will invariably reply 
 'Yes,' and either bring it, or, on returning, 
 assert with sorrow 'that unfortunately 
 there is no more left.' A well-known Gov- 
 ernment official tried this joke recently, 
 when he ordered the waiter to bring him 
 'a sphinx a la Marengo? 'But I grieve to 
 say we have no more, monsieur,' replied 
 the waiter. 'What, no more sphinx?' ex- 
 claimed the Minister of the Interior, feign- 
 ing astonishment. The waiter lowered his 
 voice, and murmured in a confidenital whis-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 205 
 
 per: 'We have some more, monsieur, but 
 the truth is I should not care to give them 
 to you, as they are not quite fresh.' " 
 
 "Dr. X. breakfasts every morning at a 
 New York restaurant. One day he ob- 
 served the waiter limping about painfully. 
 
 "Have you got lumbago?' he asked sym- 
 pathetically, 'or rheumatism ?' 
 
 "I don't know, sir, but I'll just step into 
 the kitchen and see. I don't think there's 
 a scrap left of either." 
 
 TRICKY WAITERS. 
 
 Waiters who have to work under such 
 disadvantageous conditions as those the 
 Paris waiters struck about are driven to all 
 sorts of schemes to get even. This is one 
 way, as a correspondent tells it: 
 
 "It is notorious to all habitue's of this 
 dancing-salon, and in the Quarti : Latin 
 generally, that the waiters invariably either 
 overcharge, or else return deficient change. 
 I speak from experience, as I generally do. 
 I have been overcharged or have had defi- 
 cient change given me, no less than fifteen 
 times. Sometimes the sum wanting has 
 been a franc, sometimes more, sometimes 
 less ; but I have never once been served at 
 the Bal Bullier without having to point 
 out some mistake when my change was 
 handed me. And as, on purpose to con- 
 vince myself, I have tried every waiter in 
 the place, and found them all alike, I can 
 come to no other conclusion than that 
 these mistakes are a system. One waiter 
 confessed as much, saying the times were 
 hard, that he had to work all night, and 
 would earn next to nothing ligitimately, 
 etc." 
 
 Another one says: 
 
 'One of the tricks of the waiters in the 
 Parisian resaurants, is in bringing change, 
 to cover over either a gold or silver piece 
 with the copper money. As the customer 
 usually waves away the grosser bullion 
 with a contemptuous gesture, the waiter 
 gets the hidden coin Into the bargain. 
 Another trick is to cover over a gold coin 
 with the bill, on the chance that the custo- 
 mer will not lift up the slip of paper." 
 
 But if we begin to look up the tricks of 
 waiters we shall find as many on this side 
 the ocean as the other : 
 
 " 'If I should discover a system to prevent 
 waiters from robbing guests,' said Paul 
 Bauer recently, 'I would pay well for the 
 information. Proprietors of large summer 
 resorts are all anxious 1o solve this perplex- 
 ing problem especially those who pay 
 small salaries.' 
 
 "When guests order two or more portions 
 they are seldom served their full order 
 although they pay for it. The writer sug- 
 gests that Mr. Bauer and others interested 
 auction off their present stock of crockery 
 and order a series of special dishes to be 
 known as Protective Crockery. On plat- 
 ters and vegetable dishes intended for single 
 portions stamp or paint 'one portion' on 
 the sides or rim of the dishes before they 
 are glazed. 
 
 "For two or more portions the same sys- 
 tem may be followed, but, of course, on 
 platters a size larger. If the notice was on 
 the center of the dish the food would hide 
 it, and it would not be seen until it was too 
 late to correct a mistake. 
 
 "Dishonest waiters would, of course, 
 attempt to beat the system by hiding double 
 portion dishes in convenient places. They 
 would also try to bribe the dish washers 
 and others handling the plates. Very bold 
 waiters might attempt to use a dish taken 
 from the dish baskets, but a little watchful- 
 ness would easily foil them. These dishes 
 as soon as washed, might be placed under 
 the care of the chefs. They would see that 
 the right portions were placed on the pro- 
 per dishes, and the check clerks would 
 easily prevent cooks and waiters from 
 standing in with each other. 
 
 "City hotels using the half portion sys- 
 tem might protect their patrons by adopt- 
 ing this system." 
 
 BERLIN WAITERS. 
 
 "I fancy all the good waiters leave Ber- 
 lin, and that none but poor ones stay be- 
 hind. One meets with excellent German 
 waiters in middle-class English houses, and 
 never, as far as my experience goes, in
 
 206 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 Berlin. On the other hand, in the first- 
 class hotels and restaurants in Berlin the 
 waiters are models of attentive politeness 
 and intelligence. I think the way it works 
 is this: Smart men intending to adopt the 
 profession of the serviette, do an appren- 
 ticeship in Berlin, and then start on a grand 
 tour through the capitals of Europe, learn- 
 ing languages and perfecting themselves 
 in the difficult art of serving and satisfying 
 all sorts and conditions of men. When 
 they have acquired these qualifications, 
 they return home and get go d places at 
 once in first-class houses. I had a chat on 
 this subject with the head waiter at ihe 
 Prince Heinrich Hotel in the Djrotheen- 
 strasse, and he told me he had been to 
 Naples, Rome, London, and Paiis. He 
 could speak all these languages perfectly. 
 One thing 1-e told me which I found of 
 Interest, and which was that it is nowadays 
 a matter of almost absolute impossibility for 
 a German waiter to get a berth in Paris, ano 
 that he left because his French colleagues 
 made his life intolerable for being what 
 they were pleased to call 'un sale Prussien !' 
 "There seems, it is true, but very little 
 inducement to a good waiter to remain in 
 a Berlin catering house, unless as Zahl- 
 kellner (cashier who receives all tips and 
 divides them), or at a good hotel, where 
 distinguished foreigners and distinguished 
 tips are the order of the day. I interviewed 
 a waiter at a representative establishment, 
 and he told me his wages came, after all 
 deductions for breakage, washing, etc., to 
 less than $4 a month, and that his tips 
 never exceeded $20 a month at the most. 
 He said the food he was supplied with was 
 so bad and scanty (soup at breakfast, a 
 plate of meat and vegetables for dinner, 
 coffee at four, and Aufschnitt, or bread laid 
 over with sausage or cheese, for supper), 
 that he had often to buy food outside. All 
 the beer he took from the establishment he 
 had to pay for. Twenty or twenty-five 
 dollars a month, at the outside, including 
 board, seems to be the average lot of the 
 German waiter in Berlin, and a very poor 
 lot it is." 
 
 A GERMAN BARON AS A WAITER. 
 
 " I was dining with a friend at one of the 
 most noted restaurants in London not a 
 hundred miles from Regent Street. We 
 had a most attentive waiter, whose face 
 seemed very familiar to me, and ail through 
 the dinner I was puzzling my brains as to 
 where I had seen the man before. ' Fritz,' 
 I said (all German waiters in London an- 
 swer to the name of Fritz, and all English 
 ones to that of George), 'your face is very 
 familiar to me; where have f seen you be- 
 fore? Were you at the Criterion ?' 'No, 
 sir,' he answered very quietly, ' I met you 
 in Berlin at dinner, when you and Mr. B 
 dined with Herr Engel.' It flashed across 
 me in a moment who the man was. I said, 
 
 ' Why, you're the Baron von G .' 'The 
 
 same,' he replied, half sadly, half comically, 
 'the same, minus the mustache.' I shook 
 hands with him, and thought to put both 
 of us more at our ease by adopting the 
 same half facetious tone with which he had 
 greeted me. So I remarked that I was 
 glad to congratulate him upon the genius 
 which he displayed in his new avocation, 
 for, I added, 'I might have known there 
 was good blood in you, for I was never 
 waited upon better in my life, and I am 
 one of those who believe that no one can 
 do anything better than a gentleman if he 
 really gives his mind to it.' The Baron 
 was flattered, and said that no one who had 
 not dined could properly know how to 
 wait. ' I,' said he, ' have so often noticed 
 and sworn at the shortcomings of waiters 
 that it is a strange thing if I did not know 
 how to wait decently myself.' Every Ger- 
 man who is down on his luck can trace the 
 cause of his misfortunes to Bismarck, and 
 my waiter friend was no exception to the 
 rule. He was one of seven sons (all oarons, 
 of course). Two had managed to get on 
 tolerably well ; one being colonel of a crack 
 Prussian regiment, while the eldest looked 
 after the ancestral acies. My waiter friend 
 had been living on his wits for a good few 
 years, the slender income from that source 
 being eked out by an allowance of 1,000 
 marks (abom 250) from the elder brother
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 207 
 
 Finally the income of the landed proprie- 
 tor became so curtailed on account of Bis- 
 marck (how I did not quite understand), 
 that the younger baron's allowance had to 
 be stopped. Now, it is very hard to main- 
 tain baronial dignity on 250 per annum ; 
 but when it comes to maintaining the said 
 dignity upon nothing at all, the task is be 
 yond even Teutonic shrewdness. So the 
 baron turned waiter, and a brother of his 
 (also a baron, of course) followed his ex- 
 ample. Both came to England, as being 
 the less likely to meet those who would 
 recognize them." 
 
 HOW WAITERS FIGHT DUELS. 
 
 "The Times correspondent at Vienna 
 states that two waiters found themselves 
 under the necessity of fighting a duel. The 
 seconds seem to have been but little skilled 
 in the use of firearms, for in loading the 
 pistols one of them managed to fire his off, 
 which carried away one of his fingers and 
 wounded the other second in the face. 
 The principals, having thus vicariously had 
 some experience in the use of firearms, 
 found their valor oozing out of their fin- 
 gers' ends, and expressed themselves per- 
 fectly satisfied with this vindication of their 
 honor; they hastened to shake hands and 
 to convey their seconds to the hospital! 
 Bob Acres could not have been more 
 valiant." 
 
 FEMALE WAITERS. 
 
 It is said that the Bouillon-Duval restau- 
 rants of Paris emp oy about 8,000 women, 
 of whom over 5 ooo are waiters in the 
 many different establishments belonging 
 to that company. We have seen in a pre- 
 vious page that these women waiters re- 
 ceived tips, the two or three-cent tips cus- 
 tomary in that country. But the fact that 
 they received about $12 a month regular 
 wages besides is significant, when the men 
 waiters do not get any wages, for it shows 
 the same there as in the thousands of hotels 
 that employ girl waiters in this country, 
 that women never get as many tips nor as 
 large ones as men. If it were really an 
 
 object to abolish tips altogether, it could 
 be done easily by employing girl waiters 
 only. People will not give to girls as they 
 will to boys. Girls do not know how or 
 have not the boldness to extort tips from 
 unwilling customers, or punish Ihose who 
 do not give with neglect and lofty disdain. 
 They do not generally know how to get 
 the hardest and toughest steaks and the 
 oldest and driest biscuits and shoot them 
 down on the table with their faces turned 
 another way, not to see whether the non- 
 tipping offender can reach them or not. 
 Some of the girl waiters get along a good 
 way towards learning th-se things, but 
 they lack thoroughness at it ; they are timid, 
 their dreadful revenges are all small and 
 the culprits laugh at them, when they 
 would not dare to laugh at the boy waiters, 
 and go off without tipping the girls just the 
 same. But the great majority of girl wait- 
 ers never expect tips and never try to ex- 
 tort them. They have their favorites to 
 whom they show partiality at the table, 
 but it is not often that the prospect of tips 
 is at the bottom of this partiality. Never- 
 theless girl waiters do in some places make 
 a good deal in the way of tips. They get 
 their regular old bachelors, judges or doc- 
 tors, permanent boarders, who put down 
 a dollar or two for their waiter by the side 
 of their plate punctually every week, and 
 their harvest is at Christmas, when, if no- 
 body gives the girl waiters tips at other 
 times, there is sure to be a shower of 
 Christmas gifts for them. Occasionally 
 there will be rivalry between two or more 
 favorite girls, each one has her partisans 
 among the boarders ; and those at her table 
 after subscribing themselves will gather all 
 they can from others trying to make up 
 the biggest purse for their favorite waitress. 
 At such times the presents run up to fifty, 
 eighty or even a hundred dollars for each 
 one. 
 
 Among the recommendations of girl 
 waiters, which causes them to be employed 
 all over the North in the quieter and 
 smaller-sized hotels, one is that they can 
 generally be hired for lower wages than
 
 208 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 boys. Another very important one Is that 
 they change about less and seldom or 
 never go on strikes, though instances of 
 the girls striking have been recorded where 
 they were persuaded into it by men. 
 
 It is a common thing in England for fe- 
 male waiters in hotels to serve high-class 
 dinners, so far as the several courses go, 
 but at the same time a butler attends to 
 the serving of the wines. In this country 
 "Phyllis" never reaches a very high or 
 dignified position as a waiter. But they 
 seek her for places where drilled and uni- 
 formed waiters cannot be afforded, because 
 "Phyllis" is neat and cleanly without a uni- 
 form. Says one: " Everybody knows the 
 greasy-handed, grimy-cuffed and grimy 
 shirt-fronted individual who pants and 
 'blows among the chops and steaks,' and 
 everybody as a rule avoids him. Better 
 far a neat-handed 'Phyllis' than a male 
 waiter redolent of mutton fat and insen- 
 sible to the charms of soap and water." 
 
 NEW YORK WAITER GIRLS. 
 
 "The custom of employing pretty waiter 
 girls in the restaurants in lower New York 
 increases. They bring a certain class of 
 patronage, but the patronage is not a very 
 lucrative one to the proprietors of the res- 
 taurant. The men who frequent the re- 
 spectable restaurants where waiter girls are 
 employed are usually small clerks with 
 small salaries, but high aspirations, who 
 smoke cigarettes and spend all the way 
 from fifteen to twenty cents at their lunch- 
 eons. To them it is an experience of wild 
 and lurid excitement to be waited upon by 
 pretty girls. They feel that they have done 
 a brash and manly thing and never return 
 from the restaurants to their shops without 
 telling their brother clerks of the ' mash ' 
 they have made at the restaurant. In the 
 larger eating houses, where big dishes are 
 served and where it requires activity, con- 
 siderable endurance and deftness to wait 
 upon customers, girls have been found un- 
 suitable, but in the dairies they quite fill 
 the bill." 
 
 Commercial Traveler (to waitress) : " So, 
 then, you are my waiter, are you ? what is 
 your name, is it Mary?" 
 
 Waitress: "Indeed not my name Is 
 Pearl." 
 
 Commercial Traveler: "Oh, then I 
 suppose you are the pearl of great 
 price ? " 
 
 Waitress: "No, I am the pearl that 
 was cast before swine." 
 
 A DINING ROOM JUNO. 
 
 A Boston lady who returned from the 
 White Mountains last week told the His- 
 torian about an interesting experience that 
 she had when she went there. She was 
 greatly taken on the train going to the 
 mountains with a young woman on the 
 seat in front of her, who was in form, in 
 face, in bearing, a veritable Juno. During 
 the long ride she built many airy castles of 
 imagination around the form of this god- 
 like young person. She tried her on as a 
 society queen, but she looked rather too 
 sweet and unwordly for that She tried 
 her as a countess traveling in the United 
 States, but she didn't seem exactly foreign. 
 The lady couldn't make anything else of 
 her than a princess an ideal princess, 
 traveling incognitio. 
 
 By and by her sojourning place was 
 reached and what was her delight to see the 
 beautiful young woman alight and go to 
 the hotel where she herself stopped. 
 
 "Now I shall have an opportunity to 
 know her, perhaps, or find out who she is," 
 said the lady to herself. 
 
 That night at dinner the Boston lady 
 seated herself at the table, began peering 
 about among the guests to see if the one 
 who had charmed her so completely on the 
 train was there. Suddenly she heard the 
 voice of the waiter-girl over her shoulder: 
 
 "Soup, ma'am?" 
 
 She looked up at the girl. Heavens and 
 earth! It was her Juno, her princess of the 
 journey from Boston!
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 20.) 
 
 THE PENNSYLVANIA-DUTCH WAITRESS. 
 
 "Ter bodatiss iss all." 
 
 This remark was made by a rosy- 
 cheeked, black-eyed dining room girl in a 
 most excellent Pennsylvania Dutch inn, 
 in a Lancaster county village. I had just 
 called for another baked potato. 
 
 "Is all!" said the dining room girl with 
 a smile and a shake of her head. 
 
 "All," said I, "all what?" 
 
 "Ter bodatiss iss all," answered the girl, 
 impatiently, and with a suspicion of con- 
 tempt in her tone, " iss all." 
 
 A native, with the whiskers of a patri- 
 arch, came to my rescue. 
 
 "She means ter haind't no more alretty. 
 Ter all." 
 
 And thus I learned that the Pennsylva- 
 nia Dutch never say anything is "gone." 
 If the bar runs out of beer, the beer is "all." 
 When the sauerkraut barrel is empt,* the 
 kraut is "all." But there is one thing that 
 is never " all." That is pie. If some thrifty 
 and hearty Dutch citizen should ever ask 
 for pie, and word should go back to him 
 that there was no pie, the relations between 
 him and his host would at once become 
 strained. But the necessity of asking for 
 pie seldom exists, either at tavern or farm 
 house. At a Pennsylvania Dutch inn the 
 waiter doesn't disturb your tympanum 
 with: 
 
 " Mincerapplepierpud'n ? " 
 
 She fetches in the pie at the proper time 
 and places it before you. Not only pie, but 
 a whole pie; and not only one whole pie, 
 but sometimes three or four whole pies, all 
 of different kinds. The black-eyed girl 
 with rosy cheeks who knocked me out by 
 telling me that the potatoes were "all," 
 placed four uncut pies on the table imme- 
 diately afterward. There was a cheese 
 custard, a cranberry tart, a sweet potato 
 custard and a snitz pie. No matter how 
 many pies there are on the table every 
 guest is expected to help himself to each 
 one as his inclination and capacity prompt 
 him. There is always enough. The only 
 thing that is short about Pennsylvania 
 Dutch pies is the crust. 
 
 THE MISCHIEF OF PRETTY WAITER GIRLS. 
 [From the St. James Gazette.'] 
 
 Though the soup may be clear and the fish may be 
 good, 
 
 And the lamb and the sparrowgrass tender, 
 How on earth can a person attend to the food 
 
 That attendants so fair to him tender. 
 
 Though each dish be success, and the menu com- 
 plete, 
 
 And the table could not be laid neater, 
 Yet I languidly let fall the spoon in the sweet, 
 
 Since my thoughts turn to something far sweeter. 
 
 Though the Glessler right up to the Drim of the 
 glass. 
 
 Like a souffl6 of diamonds be creaming, 
 It looks dull when I glance at the eyes of the lass 
 
 That just over my shoulder are gleaming. 
 
 No, give me the waiter's thick hands and white tie, 
 
 When I wish to persistently gobble. 
 For I can't feast my mouth when I'm feasting my 
 eye, 
 
 Nor digest when my heart's on the wobble. 
 
 GIRLS ON A STRIKE. 
 
 "A rather funny and somewhat unusual 
 strike is reported at a Swampscott (Mass.) 
 summer hotel. Nineteen taule girls struck 
 for an advance of 50 cents a week. It 
 seems there was a ball at the house, and 
 after it was over the girls appropriated the 
 ice cream that was left, but the proprietor 
 put in an appearance and took it away from 
 them. The girls resented this and asked 
 for an advance, which was promised them. 
 Fearing that the proprietor would not keep 
 his word, they submitted a paper to him by 
 which he was to bind himself to retain 
 their services until the close of the season. 
 This he refused to do, and went to Boston 
 after breakfast to procure new help before 
 lunch. In his hurry he boarded the wrong 
 train, and before he knew it he was on his 
 way to Salem. Here he set himself right 
 and was soon on his way to his destination, 
 where, after considerable difficulty, he se- 
 cured enough help, temporary and perma- 
 nent, to serve the lunch. The matter cre- 
 ated no little stir among the guests, who 
 sided with the girls, claiming that 'the ice 
 cream belonged to the guests, who paid for 
 it, and that the proprietor went too far in 
 the matter."
 
 210 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 ANOTHER STRIKE OF WAITRESSES. 
 
 u One important strike up in the Read- 
 ing coal region I haven't seen anything in 
 the papers about," said Samuel Royer, of 
 Ashland, Pa., "and that was the strike of 
 the hotel kitchen and dining room girls of 
 Ashland. The new men that the Reading 
 Railroad Company are sending in there to 
 take the places of the striking employes, at 
 first went to the different hotels to board. 
 There wasn't a girl working at any of the 
 public houses who did not have a sweet- 
 heart among the strikers, and they held a 
 meeting and resolved that they would not 
 cook nor wait on any of the men who 
 came in to take the places of the striking 
 sweethearts. The landlords were notified 
 of the decision, and informed that they 
 must close their hotels against the 'scabs' 
 or get other help. The landlords couldn't 
 see how they could refuse to accommodate 
 the men, and every hotel girl in the place 
 quit work. It was impossible for the land- 
 lords to get other help, and the result was 
 that the hotel keepers gave in after one 
 day of the novel strike, and gave the new 
 men notice that they must seek quarters 
 elsewhere. The girls then resumed work. 
 Proceedings were then taken by the rail- 
 road company to punish the hotel keepers 
 under the law for refusing to accommodate 
 their men. Then the hotel keepers agreed 
 to take the men in again, but they put up 
 their prices so high the men could not 
 stand it, and went to boarding themselves 
 in the car sheds." 
 
 RESPECT INSTEAD OF MONEY. 
 
 Well, but girls rarely strike or even strike 
 back when an unkind remark is levelled at 
 them. And it must be said in partial ex- 
 cuse for their not reaping a fair share of 
 tips that it is largely on account of the re- 
 spect of man for woman that they suffer 
 in that respect. A good many are afraid 
 to offer them money lest it may insult 
 them. There are some men waiters, as a 
 writer remarks, " who look so much like 
 archbishops, and behave in such a stern 
 and stately manner that the inexperienced 
 
 visitor is overawed and would not have the 
 timerity to offer them less than a dollar for 
 a tip." When it is a "Juno" that is so 
 encountered, who goes about her duties 
 with such dignified reserve that she 
 scarcely seems to see anybody even while 
 she is scrupulously attentive, then nobody 
 dares offer her anything at all. It is said 
 some of the White Mountain "school 
 marm" waitresses at the summer hotels 
 do refuse to take tips that are offered to 
 them. The question then arises: What do 
 they do when the customer leaves a half 
 or a dollar under his plate and goes out, 
 and never looks back to see whether Juno 
 picks it up or not? Do the Junos sweep 
 up all such dollars with the crumbs and 
 throw them out of the window? 
 
 COLORED WAITERS. 
 
 The great majority of all the waiters in 
 the United States now are colored men, 
 and the number is steadily increasing. A 
 white waiter at a meeting a year or two 
 back pointed out to his fellows that the 
 colored waiters had got possession of three- 
 fourths of the waiter work of the hotels in 
 this country, and they were in a fair way 
 to get hold of it all. While this is a true 
 statement it is remarkable when it is re- 
 flected that it is only about forty years 
 since colored waiters were unknown out- 
 side of the southern states. The recent 
 death of John Lucas, the colored head- 
 waiter of the great United States Hotel 
 at Saratoga, (who died worth $60,000) and 
 the extensive newspaper mention which 
 his death occasioned, has brought to light 
 the fact that some of the aged waiters now 
 living can name the men who first em- 
 ployed colored waiters in New York res- 
 taurants in 1846. The waiters employed 
 in the immense hotels of Saratoga no-,v are 
 all colored ; they are in the majority in 
 New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Balti- 
 more, St. Louis, and in all southern cities 
 they have almost exclusive possession. 
 They make the best of waiters and are 
 learning better yearly. At present they 
 have to be recruited from a rough and
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 211 
 
 uncared-for class to a great extent, from 
 the boot blacks, scrubbers, sweepers, and 
 farm and garden laborers, and many "hard 
 cases" are found among them, but at the 
 same time, in all the cities where the col- 
 lored element is found in great and increas- 
 ing numbers, the schools are turning out 
 thousands of half-thought, half-polished 
 young men who are almost entirely shut 
 out from learning trades, and who come 
 crowding into the waiters' ranks, finding 
 there a species of occupation for which 
 they are well fitted. It is likely, therefore, 
 that these colored men are the coming, 
 waiters of this country, and that in the 
 course of time the field will be left to them 
 entirely. In the South they occupy all the 
 ground as it is. Proprietors and other 
 employers go South yearly who are re- 
 solved not to employ colored help, but al- 
 most invariably they have to abandi the 
 resolution. The colored hands are there 
 ready for anything. Guests find colored 
 waiters more meek and obliging, less re- 
 sentful and indifferent than white waiters. 
 It is not long before changes take place 
 and the colored hands get possession in 
 spite of the previous intentions of the em- 
 ployers. Looking at it without prejudice 
 it will be found that the colored boys have 
 great advantages to fit them to be good 
 waiters. An immense number of them 
 have to begin life as house boys, as servant 
 boys in the private houses of the South, 
 and they get service and waiting, neatness, 
 obedience and civility trained into them 
 insensibly. Tens of thousands of these 
 colored boys, while they are yet children, 
 earn their subsistence by helping their 
 mothers in private service, and get a pre- 
 liminary training in waiting at private 
 tables. These turn out to be hotel waiters 
 without experiencing much difficulty. An- 
 other immense advantage of the colored 
 boy is his freedom from over-sensitiveness. 
 His feelings are not very high strung. He 
 is used to the badinage of his own class. 
 Colored people can revile each other and 
 call opprobrious names to an extent that 
 the most irascible white man would never 
 
 think of, but such abuse does not strike in ; 
 it rolls off the colored brother like water 
 off a duck's back, and if he gets a rebuff at 
 table he comes back smiling and says: 
 " Now, Cap'n, I think you didn't ought 
 talk so bad to me; ain't I treated you the 
 very best I can ? Ain't I been 'a real gen- 
 tleman to you? Now, boss, if there's any- 
 thing else you like to have jest say it and 
 if it's in this house I'll get it sure." Then 
 "boss " or "cap'n " laughs and throws him 
 a tip, and thinks more of "the boy" than 
 ever he did. Whether this submissiveness 
 is going to continue as the race becomes 
 better educated nobody can say, but it is an 
 advantage to the colored boy at present, as 
 it makes him the opposite of these com- 
 plaining London waiters, who suffer ap- 
 parently more in their mind than in their 
 body. Says one, reporting the words of 
 an address: 
 
 "The men to whom they sought to render 
 assistance were exposed to many sorrows 
 and troubles, dangers and difficulties. Some 
 left homes perhaps of sorrow, to attend to 
 the wants of others, and were obliged under 
 the most depressing circumstances to look 
 cheerful and pleasant. In addition to this, 
 the waiter had to put up with many a scold- 
 ing from those he waited on. He con- 
 tended that in many instances the waiter 
 was a far more gentlemanly individual 
 than the one he waited upon." 
 
 And another: "Yet it must be acknowl- 
 edged in all fairness that the waiter has a 
 great deal to try him in the course of the 
 day, and, if it were not for the expectation 
 of liberal fees, it is probable that his nerves 
 and his temper would give way far oftener 
 than they do at present. It is the easy- 
 mannered, the quick, quiet, respectful, and 
 very long-suffering attendant who reaps 
 the largest tips as a general rule." 
 
 And another: "There is but little ques- 
 tion that of all the people under the sun 
 the waiter is the most abused ; and be a 
 man ever so placid in temperament, the 
 word 'waiter' has only to be mentioned 
 and he flies more or less into a fury. 
 Everyone who frequents hotels and restau-
 
 212 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 rants (and who does not?) denounces the 
 waiter the choleric man becomes more 
 choleric, and the cynic more sneering and 
 sarcastic, and the waiter, flouted, scorned 
 and detested on all hands, leads what may 
 be called a far from particularly happy life. 
 For thinly-veiled insults, for biting sar- 
 casm and jeering sneers, and, more often 
 than not, for downright bullying, the waiter 
 must return politeness and meekness, and 
 if, like the oft-quoted worm, he should dare 
 to turn, he risks the double loss of situation 
 and character." 
 
 For this rearon: "The dinner hour is 
 a time when the guest is apt to be pleased 
 or displeased with little things. There is 
 an abrupt way of placing a salt-cellar on a 
 table which is annoying; and no diner 
 worthy of the name enjoys having his food 
 thrust before him as if he were a wild beast 
 .t feeding-time at the Zoological Gardens." 
 
 Such are samples of the sad complaints 
 the white waiters have to make, and every 
 word they say is true. Surely it is an ad- 
 vantage to the colored man that his skin is 
 so thick these stings and arrows do not 
 strike through, but he laughs through it 
 all, and the man who dines goes away 
 cheerful, too, and is not haunted by re- 
 morse. 
 
 SCENE CITY RESTAURANT. 
 
 First Client (in a hurry): "Waiter, fried 
 sole." 
 
 Second Client (in a hurry): "Waiter, 
 fried sole; iresh, mind 1 " 
 
 Waiter (equal to the occasion, shouting 
 down tube) : " Two fried soles one of 'em 
 
 fresh!" 
 
 
 
 TROUBLES COMMON TO ALL. 
 
 It is often remarked that waiters must 
 above all things have good memories. The 
 possession of a good memory itself, how- 
 ever, does not account for all the feats of 
 a good waiter who carries in five or six 
 persons' orders, composing between two 
 and three dozen differe- t dishes differently 
 cooked, and does not make a mistake in 
 
 one, though the obtaining of all may have 
 taken him half an hour. There are plenty 
 of men who can do everything else about 
 a hotel, however seemingly difficult, who 
 cannot take orders and remember them as 
 far as the kitchen to save their lives. A 
 good waiter was asked one day how he 
 managed to charge his memory that way 
 in spite of all the rush and noise in the 
 kitchen. Said he: "I remember the order 
 by repeating it over until I get my dishes; 
 if it is six beefsteaks and two of them rare 
 cooked, I get six steak dishes out of the 
 hot closet and putting two at the bottom I 
 say to myself, those two are for rare, the 
 four on top are well done. I get four deep 
 dishes for fish in cream, and so on, and 
 once I get the dishes right I never can for- 
 get what they are there for. What breaks 
 up the best of us is to come out and find 
 all the dishes dirty and no spoons or knives 
 to be had, and while we are hunting around 
 we forget half our orders and have to guess 
 at them." 
 
 THE TYRANNY OF THE CHEF. 
 
 Another trouble common to all waiters 
 is to be learned from this, making a little 
 allowance for the exaggeration of the 
 sums named: 
 
 " One of the best waiters in a wellknown 
 down-town restaurant attended to the 
 wants of a reporter on Thursday with a 
 discouraged air. He spoke slightingly of 
 the beef, and feelingly remarked that he 
 couldn't recommend anything except the 
 salads. A choleric gentleman sat near the 
 reporter, and the latter was astonished to 
 hear the waiter advise him to try roast 
 beef. In the restful pause that always 
 waits upon the coffee the waiter was 
 invited to explain his seeming incon- 
 sistency. 
 
 'I had a row with the chef this morning,' 
 he said, 'and I know that all the poor cuts 
 are in store for me during the rest of the 
 day. I wouldn't bring you something 
 that wasn't good, you know.' 
 
 'But you advised the red-headed gentle- 
 man to try beef.'
 
 THE STEW .VRD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 213 
 
 'The red-headed gentleman Is opposed 
 to tips, and so I haven't any special interest 
 in his stomach. A waiter's life is not a 
 happy one, and sometimes it is rendered 
 miserable by little bickerings among the 
 employe's in the kitchen. Our wages are 
 only $30 a month and meals. If we are 
 on friendly terms with the headwaiter he 
 leads all the generous patrons to our tables, 
 and if we are not it is a mere stroke of 
 good fortune if we get a tip. Some of the 
 waiters make from $2 to $4 a day besides 
 their wages, while others don't make a 
 dollar extra.' 
 
 'What does the headwaiter earn?' 
 'Oh, he frequently makes $200 a month. 
 His wages are $50 a month, and the wait- 
 ers are obliged to give him a percentage of 
 all the tips they receive. There are about 
 thirty waiters employed here, and it is a 
 poor day when $5 isn't turned over f o him 
 by the waiters at night. I have known 
 him to receive $10 at the close of a day. 
 He has little influence over the kitchen, 
 and in a case like the present, where a 
 waiter is on bad terms with the people in 
 the kitchen, he is apt to lose some of his 
 best customers because he cannot get good 
 meat for them. Some of the waiters pro- 
 pitate the chef by treating him frequently, 
 but this is expensive, and few of us can 
 afford it. It is to our advantage of course 
 to lose the customers who do not tip us, 
 and I could spare the red-headed gentle- 
 man without a pang.' " 
 
 WANT OF BATHS AND DRESSING ROOMS. 
 
 Another trouble which all experience is 
 the neglect of proprietors and stewards in 
 many places to provide bath-rooms, wash- 
 rooms, dressing-rooms and lockers for the 
 waiters. The greatest possible stress every- 
 where is laid upon the necessity of waiters 
 being clean in person and clothing, but 
 frequently there'are no conveniences what- 
 ever for washing and bathing and no p'aces 
 to leave a jacket or clean apron when it is 
 not in use without risk of its being stolen. 
 
 The best of modern hotels have help's 
 quarters fitted with plain but ample toilet 
 
 accommodations and these leave the wait- 
 ers no excuse for being untidy. 
 
 A FEW TYPES OF WAITERS. 
 I. 
 
 There are incoherent waiters, 
 
 And waiters who are rough; 
 Apologetic waiters 
 
 And waiters who are tough. 
 There are waiters quite forgetful 
 
 And absent-minded, too, 
 And waiters always waiting 
 
 For that little tip from you. 
 
 IL 
 
 There's the waiter at Delmonico't 
 
 With his blank, Parisian stare, 
 Who calls the butter beurrey, 
 
 The potatoes pome de tare, 
 Who comes with supercilious air 
 
 In answer to your call, 
 As if it were an honour 
 
 To notice you at all. 
 
 in. 
 
 There's the absent-minded waiter 
 
 Who is always in a flurry, 
 And who brings you currant jelly 
 
 When you call for chicken curry; 
 Who pours the sugar on your meat, 
 
 The salt into your tea, 
 And finally reduces you 
 
 To abject misery. 
 
 IV. 
 
 The apologetic waiter, 
 
 With his sweet, eternal smile: 
 Who lays his head upon one side 
 
 And rubs his hands the while, 
 Who is "really very sorry 
 
 That we haven't that to-day," 
 And who thinks it "Quite unfortunate 
 
 That it's cooked in such a way." 
 
 V. 
 
 There's the large and clumsy waiter 
 
 Who is always very slow, 
 And is forever stumbling 
 
 Wherever he may go; 
 Who drops the butter on your coat 
 
 With great proficiency, 
 And crown's you with the muffins 
 
 With extreme dexterity. 
 
 VI. 
 There's the thin and sporty waiter 
 
 Who never takes your hat, 
 And makes a bowling alley 
 
 Of the table you are at. 
 Who rolls the dishes down on you 
 
 Regardless of their falls, 
 As if vou were a nine-pin 
 
 And they were bowling-balls.
 
 214 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 VII. 
 There's the waiter at the seaside, 
 
 With his life of gilded ease; 
 He's the one who's always waiting 
 
 For those customary fees. 
 He will starve you to submission 
 
 If his tip you should refuse, 
 But treats you like a monarch 
 
 If you give to him his dues. 
 
 vin. 
 
 There's the shabby-genteel waiter, 
 
 Whose clothing never fits; 
 Who always brings your change to you 
 
 In five and penny bits; 
 And who also serves your dinner 
 
 In sections, plate by plate, 
 And sets it down before you 
 
 Like an avenging Fate. 
 
 IX. 
 
 There's the waiter that's attentive 
 
 And exceedingly polite, 
 Who sees that what you order 
 
 Is served exactly right ; 
 Your merest wish anticipates 
 
 With such a che'erful will; 
 Though you mean to tip a quarter 
 
 He often gets a bill. 
 
 X. 
 
 He's the waiter that's successful, 
 
 For he does his work so well 
 That in certain length of time 
 
 He owns his own hotel; 
 And stands beside the cashier's desk 
 
 And looks with lordly air 
 Upon all the other waiters 
 
 Who are waiting for him there. 
 
 New York World. 
 
 RUM OMELET STRAIGHT. 
 
 "Tired" Customer (in restaurant) 
 Wait'r, a (hie) rum omelet! 
 
 Waiter Yes, sir; with er without eggs? 
 
 JUST A PLAIN WAITER. 
 
 "In Washington you can get a highly 
 seasoned and not entirely objectionable 
 compound of Terrapin, in exchange for a 
 moderate fortune, served up with Saratoga 
 chips and a grand flourish by a haughty 
 waiter, who will ostracize you socially 
 afterward if you forget to give at least a 
 dollar for himself. But walk into one of 
 the right places in Baltimore, hang your 
 
 hat up carelessly, and quietly follow these 
 respectful suggestions: 'Po'tion o' tar'pin? 
 Yezzah. Some nice sullery? Yezzah. 
 Brown chips? Yezzah. Pinter Perry 
 Juray? Yezzah!' and in about five minu- 
 tes you will have a feast fit for the gods." 
 
 DIDN'T MAKE IT THAT TIME. 
 
 "In his entertaining book, 'The Ambas- 
 sadors of Commerce,' Mr. Allen tells the 
 following little story: The Saracen's Head 
 Hotel, Lincoln, was noted for three things: 
 a very gruff landlord, a very cheeky waiter 
 and '365.' The latter term being a syno- 
 nym for the very best rice-pudding I, or 
 anyone else, ever tasted, and as it was pro- 
 duced every day in the year, we christened 
 it '365.' I can vouch for it being on the 
 table twice a month for twenty-two years, 
 and always good alike. I may add that if 
 half a dozen were required they were al- 
 ways forthcoming. But it is of Arthur the 
 waiter I would speak. It was often suspected 
 that this swallow-tailed, modest-looking 
 garcon was guilty of removing the decan- 
 ters, and especially the small black bottles 
 of crusty, 'bee's-wingy' old port before they 
 were quite empty; this was especially no- 
 ticed by a Mr. Thomson, a sharp-witted 
 'commercial,' who on the day in question 
 hinted the fact to the president. It was a 
 rather large dinner-party, and Arthur was 
 in unusually good form. A pint of old 
 port was ordered and emptied ; the bottle 
 was partly refilled with salt, pepper, cay- 
 enne, mustard, Worcester sauce, chill 
 vinegar, anchovy, etc. ' Bring the bill, 
 Arthur,' said the president. 'Yes, sir!' and 
 as usual Arthur hurriedly took off the black 
 bottle. The company waited some time, 
 but no Arthur and no bill appeared. 
 Whereupon the 'vice' was asked to ring 
 the bell. In came 'Buttons.' 'Tell Arthur 
 to bring the dinner bill at once,' said the 
 president. 'Please, sir, he can't; he's 
 nearly dead, he's choked.' The gentlemen 
 at the table became alarmed, hurried out of 
 the room to find poor Arthur in a most 
 painful position. He was black in the 
 face, and sorrounded by his fellow-servants.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 21 
 
 On his recovery he solemnly promised 
 never again to test the quality of leavings 
 in the black bottle. 
 
 A WAITERS VALENTINE. 
 
 "It is prosaically addressed to 'Sally at 
 the Chophouse,, and bears date Feb. 14, 
 1799: 
 
 "Dear Sally, Emblem of thy Chophouse ware, 
 As broth reviving, and as White Bread fair; 
 As Small Beer grateful, and as pepper strong; 
 As Beef Steaks tender, and as fresh Hot Hearts 
 
 young ; 
 
 As sharp as Knife, as piercing- as a Fork, 
 Soft as New Butter, white as fairest Pork; 
 Sweet as young Mutton, brisk as Bottled Beer, 
 Smooth as is Oil, juicy as Cucumber; 
 As bright as Cruet, void of Vinegar. 
 Oh, Sally, could I turn and shift my Love 
 With the same skill that you your Steak can move, 
 My Heart thus cooked might prove a Chophouse 
 
 feast, 
 
 And you alone should be the welcome guest. 
 But, dearest Sal, the flames that you impart, 
 Like Chop on Gridiron, broil my tender heart, 
 Which, if thy kindly hand ben't nigh, 
 Must, like an unturned chop, hiss, burn, and fry, 
 And must at last, thou scorcher of My soul, 
 Shrink, and become an undistinguished coal!" 
 
 A WAITER'S WIFE. 
 
 "Bertha Stuckart, wife of a waiter in 
 Vienna, Austria, won a prize for her 
 beauty at the exhibition of beautiful women 
 at Spa, Belgium. Her husband sold her, 
 by mutual agreement, to a rich bachelor 
 for a considerable sum, and now she has 
 obtained a profitable engagement with a 
 museum proprietor to make a tour of the 
 world." 
 
 STUDENT WAITERS. 
 
 A watering-place correspondent says: 
 "Passing through the dining room of a 
 bummer <hotel one afternoon I saw the 
 headwaiter, a fine, handsome young man 
 from one of our New England colleges, 
 reading Virgil with several of his assistants 
 the pretty waitresses, who in other places 
 are school teachers, and very likely in col- 
 leges themselves. I thought of the Hotel 
 Zum Anker at Coblentz on the Rhine, and 
 a young man I met there a German Baron 
 - I think he was and with whom I talked 
 
 of America and American hotels, and es- 
 pecially I told him of the* student waiters 
 in our summer hotels. He expressed great 
 astonishment, and said he had heard of it 
 before, but never had been able to bring 
 himself to believe It. His incredulity was 
 all the more surprising, as he himself was 
 a clerk at the Hotel Zum Anker. I must 
 give him the credit of being an excellent 
 clerk, who never seemed to iorget that 
 though he was a baron he was yet the 
 hotel clerk, and so discharged his duties 
 just as faithfully as though he had not 
 been possessed of so hair-splitting a turn 
 of mind." 
 
 IX THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Twas at college first I met him, 
 
 There competing for a prize; 
 And he gave his deep oration. 
 
 Ail his soul within his eyes. 
 
 Twas a masterpiece, in Latin, 
 Full of feeling, fire and thought, 
 
 Rich with wiVl poetic fancies 
 Thro' the phrases interwrought. 
 
 And his proud young face shone on me 
 And his clear young voice rang loud, 
 
 Leaving in my ear an echo 
 O'er the plaudits of the crowd. 
 
 Thus I listened, thrilled, enraptured, 
 
 Hung on every ringing tone, 
 Till the heart within my bosom 
 
 Beat for him, and him alone! 
 
 On my breast I wore his colors, 
 Love's sweet tribute to his fame; 
 
 And while thinking of him ever 
 To my heart I called his name. 
 
 And we met again 'twas summer; 
 
 I had waited long and well. 
 I was down beside the seashore, 
 
 Stopping at the Grand Hotel. 
 
 Seated all alone at dinner, 
 Wrapped in serious thought was I, 
 
 When a voice, so deep and tender, 
 Murmured, "Peach or lemon pie?" 
 
 Then I looked up, pale and trembling, 
 There "he" stood within my sight, 
 
 In a waiter's badge all shining, 
 And a waiter's apron white. 
 
 He had hired there for the summer, 
 
 And his wild, poetic heart 
 Now was strugling through the mazes 
 
 Of a dinner a la carte.
 
 216 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 So I turned me coldly from him, 
 
 With a sad and sobbing sigh ; 
 After all my weary waiting 
 
 All 1 said was "Lemon pie!" 
 
 That lady went back the next year and 
 found he had become a majestic head waiter 
 like this: 
 
 "Mrs. JDe Timid (at Grand Hotel table) 
 I beg pardon, but didn't you say you 
 were presented to the queen during your 
 tour abroad? 
 
 Prima Donna 'Yes madam. 1 
 
 'And you spoke of other experiences of a 
 like nature.' 
 
 'I was presented to several of the crowned 
 heads of Europe, talked with many of the 
 great generals and noted diplomats and 
 was granted an audience.' 
 
 'Weren't you scared?' 
 
 'Not at all.' 
 
 'Then if you are not afraid, I wish you 
 would tell the head waiter that this salt box 
 is empty.' 
 
 A TREASURE OF A WAITER. 
 
 "A tight pair of light pants, a shirt of 
 which the bosom shone like a bald head, a 
 Rhine-stone collar-button which fastened 
 an immaculate collar to the aforesaid shirt, a 
 black alpaca round-about and an apron that 
 just escaped the floor, and inside of all a 
 human being, and you have our new 
 waiter. With the exception of an embry- 
 onic moustache his face was devoid of hair 
 He had had several years' experience, he 
 iaid, as a waiter, and it was with a feeling 
 
 of pride, to say nothing of relief, that the 
 headwaiter saw him take his place in the 
 centre of the room and await the rush that 
 always occurs at high noon. One by one 
 tables were filled, and finally not a seat 
 there was to be had. The new waiter passed 
 
 noiselessly from one table to another, tak- 
 ing the multitude of orders with the utmost 
 complacency until he reached the end of 
 his station. 'At last I've got a man that 
 can take care of my customers in a proper 
 manner,' chuckled the proprietor, as he 
 gazed with pardonable admiration on the 
 new man awaiting his turn at the order- 
 lift. His satisfaction was short-lived, how- 
 ever, for all at once the new waiter began 
 giving orders in a voice suggestive to the 
 bellow of a bull, and that, too, in a verna- 
 cular that was strangely new to the Bro- 
 therhood Restaurant: 
 
 '(i) Give me a stack o* whites with a 
 copper on (2) a terrier without shamrocks, 
 (3) some hen's fruit that an't over ripe, (4) 
 a slaughter-house and a paralyzed Mick, 
 (5) a cup of coffee on crutches, (6) two
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 217 
 
 insults to a square meal, (7) one Sheeny 
 destroyer and a soaked bum, (8) a brown- 
 stone front, and (9) return good for evil.' 
 
 A cry from the kitchen followed, and 
 the carver ran upstairs saying the chef had 
 fainted. The new waiter was summarily 
 bounced and an old hand sent to get the 
 orders anew, which having done, he trans- 
 mitted to the kitchen as follows: 
 
 '(i) Give me a plate of wheat cakes well 
 browned, (2) corned beef without cabbage 
 for one (3) a plate of fresh fried eggs, (4) 
 steak and a boiled potato, (5) a cup of coffee 
 half milk, (6) two dishes of hash, (7) a plate 
 of roast pork and pickled beets, (8) pork 
 and beans for one, and (9) change this 
 potato for a good one.' 
 
 This is what the new waiter meant, but 
 he had had too many days' experience in 
 the shady part of town." 
 
 TRIALS OF THE WAITER GIRLS. 
 
 "Cranks," said the girl waiter, "always 
 blossom out in their full glory when they 
 eat. Some of them never know enough to 
 give an order and five minutes after it is cook- 
 ing will want me to change it. Of course 
 I can't do it. Then there is the young 
 man who is inclined to be spooney and 
 indulges in any amount of soft nothings, 
 forgetting that I have not let this leap year 
 pass without getting an iron-clad engage- 
 ment, and if my fellow attempts to go back 
 on his vows I will make it too warm for 
 him to live. But there is one kind of crank 
 that is the meanest of all the one who 
 comes in with a friend, and when he sees 
 anything his friend has ordered that pleases 
 him deliberately appropriates it. This 
 always creates bad feeling, and the blame 
 falls on me. I thought I would get even 
 with one of this kind last night, and 
 checked him up an extra quarter. But I 
 
 failed. He traded checks and paid his bill 
 and went out, and his patient friend caught 
 the large sized check." 
 
 WAITERS' CHRISTMAS. 
 
 (Chicago Hotel World.) 
 
 Mr. Plummer, headwaiter of the Mil- 
 lard, Omaha, received a costly manicure 
 set from his waiters. 
 
 Mr. O. H. Lane, headwaiter at the Ho- 
 tel Worth, Chicago, besides other gifts, re- 
 ceived about $40 in hard cash from the 
 guests of that hotel. The side-waiters also 
 fared well. 
 
 Ms. Albert E. Reynolds, headwaiter of 
 the St. James Hotel, St. Louis, was gen- 
 erously remembered by his waiters with a 
 fine ring, bearing his monogram inlaid 
 with diamonds. 
 
 Julia Harrigan has been head waitress at 
 the Morton House, Grand Rapids, Mich., 
 for over ten years, and her friends made 
 her a Christmas present this year of $230 
 in cash, collected in small donations. 
 
 The St. Louis, Hotel Reporter says the 
 Southern Hotel Company distributed about 
 fifteen hundred dollars among their em- 
 ploye's and allowed them to purchase their 
 presents. The proprietors of the Lindell 
 also came to the front in a liberal manner. 
 
 Mrs. Potter Palmer gives a Christmas 
 the Palmer House, Chicago, in the hotel 
 parlors. At the recent treat over 200 chil- 
 dren, (says the Chicago Hotel Reporter]) 
 assembled around a monster Christmas tree 
 laden with valuable presents, and every 
 child was made happy with a gift. After 
 the presentations the little ones were given 
 a banquet with plenty of ice cream, cakes 
 and candies in the bill of fare. It is such 
 substantial manifestations of good will 
 upon the parts of employers that tends 
 to make employe's contented and happy.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 WHITK HE AD'S 
 
 DI6TIONARY OF DISHES 
 
 CULINARY TERMS AND VARIOUS INFORMATION PERTAINING TO 
 THE STEWARD'S DEPARTMENT, BEING THE 
 
 ESSENCE OF ALL COOK BOOKS, 
 
 TELLING IN BRIEF WHAT ALL DISHES AND SAUCES ARE, OR 
 WHAT THEY SHOULD LOOK LIKE. 
 
 WHAT MATERIALS ARE NEEDED FOR AND WHA*T THEY ARE. 
 HOW TO USE TO ADVANTAGE ALL SORTS OF ABUND- 
 ANT PROVISIONS, OR HOW TO KEEP THFVJ 
 
 CONTAINING, ALSO, 
 
 A Valuable Collection of Restaurant Specialties, 
 
 DISTINCTIVE NATIONAL COOKERY, 
 
 REMARKS ON ADULTERATIONS, AND HOW TO DETECT THEM, 
 TREATMENT AND SERVICE OF WINE 
 
 AND A FUND OK CURIOUS AND USEFUL INFORMATION IN DICTIONARY FORM, 
 
 FOR STEWARDS, CATERERS, CHEFS, BAKERS, AND ALL 
 
 HOTEL AND RESTAURANT KEEPERS. 
 
 JESSUP WHITEHEAD. 
 
 CHICAGO. 
 1899.
 
 .Entered according to Act of Congress in the Office of the Librarian, at Washington, by 
 JESSI.-P WHITEHEAD, 1887 and 1889. All rights reserved.
 
 MODEL SMALL MENUS. 
 
 DINNER PARTY AT ADELPHI HOTEL, 
 NEW YORK. 
 
 Blue Points. 
 
 Chicken a la Reine. 
 
 Kennebec Sahnon, Anchovy Sauce. 
 
 Pommes Parisienne. 
 Olives. Celery. 
 
 Terrapin a la Maryland. 
 Chicken Croquettes Petits Pois. 
 
 Cauliflower. 
 Fillet of Beef, larded, \vith Mushrooms. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 Lobster and Chicken Salads. 
 
 Canvas -back Duck. 
 Saratoga Chips. Currant Jelly. 
 
 Rum Omelette. 
 
 Cheese, Fruit, etc. 
 
 Cafe, Liqueurs, Segars. 
 
 ITALO-AMERICAN EPICUREAN CLUB 
 RECEPTION, NEW YORK. 
 
 Julienne. 
 Varies. HORS D'CBUVRE. Varies. 
 
 Striped Bass i la Hollandaise. 
 
 Beef Tenderloin, with Mushrooms. 
 
 Potato Croquettes. French Peas. 
 
 Roast Chicken. Turkey. 
 Lettuce Salad. Celery. Cranberry Sauce. 
 
 Lobster Salad. 
 
 Chicken Mayonaise. 
 
 Vanilla Ice Cream. 
 
 Assorted Cake. Fruits. Bonbons. 
 
 Candy. 
 
 Cheese. Coffee. 
 
 Liqueurs. 
 
 COOK'S ASSOCIATION, LONDON EX- 
 HIBITION. 
 
 MENU. 
 
 Soups, 
 Julienne. 
 
 Fish. 
 
 Tranches de Saumon, Sauce Verte. 
 Blanchailles. 
 
 Entrees. 
 Poulet Saute a la Portugaise. 
 
 Releves. 
 Quartier d'Agneau, Sauce Menthe. 
 
 Second Service. 
 
 Canetons R6ti. 
 
 Salade a la Francai.se. 
 
 Asperges, Sauce Hollandaise. 
 
 Entremets. 
 
 Babas, Sauce Abricot. 
 
 Glace a la Vanille. 
 
 Gateau Assorti. 
 
 (221) 
 
 COMMONWEALTH CLUB, METROPOL 
 ITAN HOTEL, NEW YORK. 
 
 MENU. 
 
 Blue Points. 
 Consomm^ de Volaille aux Quenelles. 
 
 Baked Biuefish, Bordelaise. 
 
 Cucumbers. Potatoes au Gratin. 
 
 Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce. 
 
 String Beans. 
 Porterhouse Roast & 1'Anglaise. 
 
 French Peas. 
 Cardinal Punch. 
 
 Spring Turkey, Cranberry Sauce. 
 
 Lettuce. Brussels Sprouts. 
 
 Pudding k la Reine. 
 
 Glace a la Forme. 
 
 Gateaux Assortis. 
 
 Fruit. Coffee. 
 
 Cheese. 
 
 ANOTHER OF THE SAME. 
 
 MENU. 
 
 Blue Points. 
 
 Consomme 1 Deslignac. 
 
 Boiled Kennebec Salmon a la Russe. 
 
 Cucumbers. Potatoes Brabant. 
 
 Sirloin of Beef, larded Jardiniere. 
 
 Cauliflower au Gratin. 
 Salmi of Partridge a la Perigeux. 
 
 String Beans. 
 
 Roman Punch. 
 
 Philadelphia Capon, Water-cress. 
 
 Green Peas. 
 
 Cabinet Pudding, Brandy Sauce. 
 Neapolitan Ice Cream. 
 
 Assorted Cake. 
 
 Cheese. Fruit. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 AL FRESCO. 
 
 An enthusiastic tourist thus describes a supper of 
 which he partook recently upon an island in Lake 
 Erie: "And such a supper! Black bass killed 
 twenty minutes ago, cut up and fried to an external 
 crisp and internal juicy firmness; grass pike baked 
 whole and done to a turn, which would strike envy 
 into the very stew-pans of a French 'artist;' a peck 
 of little perch fried as crisp as shavings and as 
 'sweet as nuts:' a half dozen roast mallard, stuffed 
 with soul ravishing sage and onions; a pot pie from 
 whose delicious depths coots, reed birds, snipe and 
 teal emerge in succession; potatoes roasted in their 
 jackets, and best of all, tin plates, wooden benches, 
 the glorious back-woods, absence of etiquette and 
 every man for himself." 
 
 AN ACROSTIC MENU. 
 
 The following complimentary menu to a voung 
 lady named Lilian does credit to its author:
 
 222 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 L es hultres d'Ostend. 
 
 I talian et Printanier Royal. 
 
 L ottes a la Massillon. 
 
 I ndienne de riz sur croustades. 
 
 A iguillettes de canards St. Hubert. 
 
 X oisettes de pre sale, Lyon d'Or. 
 
 B ombe a la Romalne. 
 
 O rtolans et perdreaux eur canapes. 
 
 X ouilles en timbales a la Xapolitaine. 
 
 V cloute 1 de cardpns a la moSlle. 
 
 O melette souffiee a vanille. 
 
 V okoharna glace au Clicquot. 
 
 A bricots et iruits confits. 
 
 G auffrettes et petits fours. 
 
 E spalier de chasselas Fontainebleau. 
 
 Possibly the waiters were as much in a maze 
 about the order of serving such a feast as the guests 
 were amazed at the delicacy of the giver thereof. 
 
 CANARD, SAUCE AU SANG. 
 
 One of Joseph's little dinners. (M. Joseph, of the 
 Restaurant du Cafe Paillard, Boulevard des Ita- 
 Jiens, formerly of Bignon's.) 
 
 MENU. 
 lluitres d'Ostende. 
 
 Potato au Tapioca, a la Puree de Pois, 
 a 1'Oseille. 
 
 Turbot, Sauce Hollandaise. 
 
 Cotelettcs d'Asjneau braisees a la Pure de Cham- 
 pignons. 
 
 Canard Sauvage R6ti, Sauce au Sang. 
 
 Salade. 
 
 Tomates au Gratin. 
 Riz a I'linperatrice aux Mandarines. 
 
 Fromage et Fruits. 
 Pontet-Canet, 1875. Cardinal, Sec, FrappS. 
 
 AX EXGLISII PRIVATE PARTY. 
 
 MENU. 
 
 Ox -tail Soup. 
 Turbot and Lobster Sauce. 
 
 Filleted Soles. 
 
 Oyster Pudding. 
 
 Kidneys, with Murhrooms. 
 
 Saddle of Mutton. 
 
 Turkey. 
 
 Grouse. Pheasant. 
 
 Wine Jelly. Apricot Cream. 
 
 Cheese. Canapes. 
 
 Cheese and Celery. 
 Ice Pudding. Dessert. 
 
 AT A SCOTTISH XOBLEMAX'S. 
 
 MENU. 
 
 Puree de Xavets. 
 Halibut. 
 
 Rabbit ii la Kirkham. Roast Criwfish. 
 
 Chicken a la Marengo. Quails a la Princess. 
 
 Roast Lamb a la Dudley. 
 
 Roast Grouse. 
 
 Imperial Pudding. Broiled Peaches and Cream. 
 
 Pistachio Fritters. Cream Cheese Fritters. 
 
 Lemon Jelly. Strawberry Cream. Ices. 
 
 Dessert. 
 
 Potage dcs Asperges. 
 Fried Soles. 
 
 AT A COLD BALL SUPPER. 
 The following is the menu of one of the largest 
 ball suppers given during the past winter season, 
 and served by the leading local caterer: 
 
 MENU. 
 
 Raised Pies (Veal and Ham, Pork, Game, etc.). 
 Roast Fowls. Pressed Tongues. York Hams. 
 
 Mayonaise of Salmon. Lobster in Aspic. 
 
 Galatine of Veal. Sandwiches. Boned Turkey. 
 
 Italian Salads. Sweet Salads of Fruits. 
 
 Tipsy Cakes. 
 
 Neapolitan Gateau. Creams. Jellies. 
 Ices. 
 
 A HOT SUPPER OF THE SAME CLASS. 
 
 MENU. * 
 
 Soup k la Relne. Asparagus Soup. 
 
 Salmon. 
 
 Truffled Turkey. Ox Tongue. Sirloin of Beef. 
 Lamb. Broiled Chicken. Yorkshire Ham. 
 
 Game Pie. Pheasants. 
 
 Trifle. German Pastry. 
 
 Fruit Jelly. Creams. 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 The menu -cards were pretty, no two being alike, 
 yet all of delicate design. 
 
 DIXXER GIVEX BY A PHYSICIAX. 
 A dinner given by one of the medical attendants 
 of the late Prince Leopold. 
 
 MENU. 
 Clear Soup. 
 
 Salmon. 
 
 Oyster Patties. 
 
 Sweetbreads. 
 
 Lamb. 
 
 Guinea Fowls. 
 
 Orange Pudding. Claret Jelly. 
 Anchovy Toast. Cheese. 
 
 A GERM AX MODEL MENU. 
 At the Windsor Hotel, Edinburgh, a dinner was 
 given in honor of the German Emperor's ninetieth 
 birthday. There were about fifty gentlemen pres- 
 ent, of course mainly composed of Germans, but 
 here and there were to be seen Scotchmen and En- 
 glishmen. The viands were composed largely of 
 German dishes, but amid the foreign names loomed 
 the untranslatable word "haggis," the familiar 
 Scottish national dish. On the menu card was an 
 excellent portrait of the emperor, and the viands 
 were as under: 
 
 Kaiser Suppe. Huhner Suppe. 
 Sherry. 
 
 Lachs, mit Hummer Sauce. Gebackene Seezunge. 
 Xiersteiner. 
 
 Leipziger Lerchen. Kalbskopf. 
 
 Haggis. 
 Schaumwein. Whisky. 
 
 Sauerbraten und KISsse. 
 Haasenbraten und Weinkraut 
 
 Junge Huhnen und Enten. 
 Compot und Salad. 
 
 Sachsischer Auflauf. Apfelkuchen. 
 
 Siisse Sulz. 
 
 Rothwein. Sherrv. 
 
 Xachtisch.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 223 
 
 THE GERMAN EMPEROR'S DINNER. 
 
 The following is a copy of one of the last gala 
 
 dinners which c/iefUrbain Dubois prepared for his 
 
 illustrious employers, and of which, as well he 
 
 might, "All-Highest-the-Same',' ate very heartily : 
 
 Hiihnerbruhe niit Spargel-KOpfen. 
 
 Schild-Kroten-Sunpe. 
 
 Gebirgs-Forellen, blau. 
 
 Lendenbraten mit Kaviar-Br8dchen. 
 
 Warme Rebhiihner-Pasteten init Trflffeln. 
 
 Helgolander Hummer. 
 
 Brusseler Geflugel. 
 
 BOmishe Fasanen. Salat. 
 
 Artischoken-Bohnen mit jungen Gemusen. 
 
 Pilse in Petersilie. 
 Butter und Kase. Fruchte. Eis. Nachtisch. 
 
 JUBILEE SUPPER AT LANSDOWXK 
 HOUSE. 
 
 The menu of the jubilee supper at Lansdowne 
 House, which received very special commendation 
 from the Prince of Wales, was as follows: 
 
 Tortue claire. 
 
 Filets de soles a la Ravigotte. 
 
 Cailles flanquees, d'ortolans. 
 
 Filets de volaille a la Parisienne. 
 
 Asperges a la sauce Hollandaise. 
 
 Souffles glaces Panaches. 
 
 This is a very simple repast, for since the Prince 
 of Wales' digestion lost the edge of youth he has 
 been urging every one to give simple dinners. It is 
 made up of five courses: Clear turtle soup; nllets 
 of sole, served with Ravigotte sauce (a maitre d'ho- 
 tel sauce with Chili vinegar, anchovy, etc.); quail 
 flanked with ortolans; fillets of fowl a la Parisienne, 
 asparagus with Hollandaise sauce (yolk of eggs 
 and butter with vinegar); and a souffle with harle- 
 quin ices. 
 
 MR. IRVING'S BEST DINNER. 
 In Irving's " Impressions of America " due pro- 
 minence is given to the lavish feasting which at : 
 tended the well-known artist's triumphal progress 
 through the states. He was greeted everywhere 
 with complimentary entertainments. As for the 
 means of some of his smaller banquets, they make 
 one's mouth water; and Mr. Irving is evidently an 
 intelligent and scientific gourmet. He seems to 
 have given the palm to a simple little dinner at 
 Sieghortner's in New York. Oysters on the hali 
 shell, lying on crushed ice, each served with its 
 separate slice of lemon. A vegetable soup that re- 
 minded him of what he barbarously misspells as 
 "Cock-u-lukie." Terrapin sent up hot and hot. 
 ("Next to going to heaven," said a friend near me, 
 is to go down to Baltimore and eat terrapin.") Can- 
 vas-back duck a breast on each plate, with potato 
 chips and celery, and two courses of the ducks, the 
 first roasted, the second grilled and devilled. A 
 souffle, cheese, coffee and wines that were worthy 
 of the fare. By way of contrast to that little diner 
 soigne, we have an amusing account of a "scratch" 
 dinner given by Irving to his company at a hote 
 at Toronto in the winter, and consequent!}' out o: 
 season. After telegraph and telephone had heei 
 
 vorking in all directions, flashing fruitless mes- 
 ;ages for poultry and other raw material, seventy 
 quests were set down at last to a sufficiency of sub- 
 tantial food. 
 
 Private dinner to the Prince and Princess of 
 Wales: 
 
 Consomme de Volaille Royale. 
 Creme d'Asperges a la Comtesse. 
 
 Turbot braise a la Vatel. 
 Mousse de Saumon a la Lavalliere. 
 
 C6telettes d'Agneau Chatelaine. 
 Medallions de Foie-gras a 1'Aspic. 
 
 Hanche de Venaison. 
 Poulardes Souffles. 
 
 Ortolans sur Canapes. 
 Petits Pois a la Francais. 
 
 Parfait leger aux Cerises. 
 Gateau Napolitain 
 
 Tartelettes Suisses. 
 
 First official dinner given by President Carnot at 
 
 the Elysee: 
 
 Consomme Bagration. 
 Bisque d'Ecrevisses. 
 
 Bouchees aux Crevettes. 
 
 Saumon, Sauce G^nevoise. 
 Cuissot de Chevreuil Saint Hubert. 
 
 Supreme de Volaille aux Truffes. 
 C&telettes d'Agneau aux Petits Pois. 
 
 Mauviettes a la Lucullus. 
 Salade d'Homard a la Russe. 
 
 Sorbets. 
 
 Faisans truffes, Sauce PeVigueux. 
 Pates de Foie Gras de Nancy. 
 
 Asperges en Branches. 
 Haricots Verts Nouveaux. 
 
 Glace Diplomate. 
 Gateaux Mousseline a 1'Orange. 
 
 Menu of a dinner given by the Sultan of Turkey 
 to the Prince Jerome Napoleon on the ist of July: 
 Potage a la reine. 
 
 Beureg. 
 
 Poisson a la Turque. 
 
 Filet de bosuf a la Godard. 
 
 Poulets nouveaux a 1'Orientale. 
 
 C6telettes d'agneau aux petits pois. 
 
 Hiar Dornassy. 
 
 Homards en Belle-vue 
 
 Asperges bouillies, sauce au beurre. 
 
 Punch a la Romaine. 
 
 Dindonneaux r&tis au jus. 
 
 Pilau. 
 
 Visnali ekmeg. 
 
 Gel6e macedoine de fruits. 
 
 Faouk gheuksu. 
 
 Fromage glac6. 
 
 A KING FLUSH AND A ROYAL DINNER. 
 
 Menu of a notable dinner given by Earl Cadogan 
 at Chelsea House to the royalties in London. Cov- 
 ers were laid for forty-eight. The company in-
 
 224 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 eluded the King of Denmark, the King of Greece, 
 the King of the Belgians, the Crown Prince of j 
 Austria, the Prince and Princess of Wales and Prin- 
 cesses Louise and Victoria of Wales, the Crown 
 Prince and Crown Princess of Portugal, the Crown 
 Prince of Sweden, the Grand Duke and Grand 
 Duchess Serge of Russia, the Duke of Aosta, Prince 
 and Princess William of Prussia, the Infante Anto- 
 nio and the Infanta Euialie, and the Heriditary 
 Prince and Princess of Meiningen. 
 
 Consomme i la Royale. 
 Crfime d'Asperges. 
 
 Whitebait. 
 Filets de Truites froides en Souchet. 
 
 C6telettes d'Agneau Duchesse. 
 Chaudfroid de Cailles aux Truffes. 
 
 Poulardes aux Pruneaux. 
 
 Filet Piques froids, Sauce Cumberland. 
 
 Salades Russe et Tomates. 
 
 Ortolans sur Canapes. 
 Pois a 1'Anglaise. 
 
 Bavarois 1 la Montreuil. 
 
 Souffles de Fraises. 
 Croustades aux Fromages. 
 
 WHEN PRIXCE MEETS PRINCE. 
 
 Menu of a dinner given by the Crown Prince 
 Rudolph of Austria to the Prince of Wales on the 
 24 of September, iSSS, at the " Lacher Garten," 
 Prater, in Vienna: 
 
 Huttres. 
 
 Consomme^ a la Sevigne. 
 
 Bisque d'ecrevisses. 
 Saumon du Rhin, sauce Hollandaise, et sauce 
 
 Genevoise. 
 
 Piece de bceuf, k la jardiniere. 
 
 Pate de canard traffics, h la gelee. 
 
 Poulardes a la Toulouse. 
 
 Ponche Stephanie. 
 Selle de chevreuil. Faisans de Boheme. 
 
 Salade. 
 Fonds d'artichants k la moelle. 
 
 Souffle" au chocolat. 
 
 Glaces historiees. Fruits. Fromage. 
 Caf<. 
 
 AN EXCELLENT DINNER 
 at the house of one of the most elegant of the 
 grandes dames of Paris:. 
 
 MEXf. 
 
 Consomme Royal. 
 
 Tartelettes-a la Russe. 
 
 Filets de Turbpts Chambord. 
 
 Selles de Marcassin, Sauce Tartare. 
 
 Casseroles de Ris de Veau Petits Pois. 
 
 Bartavelles aux Ceps de Bordeaux. 
 
 Marquises Jamaique. 
 
 Dinde truffee. Salade. 
 
 Foies Gras Lumineux Truffes. 
 
 Cardons & la Moelle. 
 
 Bombe Grande Duchesse. 
 
 Fromages. Desserts. 
 
 A NOVELTY 
 
 "This was one of the best dinners I have had for 
 some time. I want specially to call your attention 
 to the item foiex gras lumineux irnfffs, which is a 
 
 very attractive novelty. The dish is a hollow cone 
 of tinted ice. Inside the ice is placed a light. Along 
 the sides of the cone are laid rows of roundels of 
 foie grtix, diminishing in size from bottom to top. 
 In each roundel is a slice of truffle. The light shin- 
 ing through the ice has a wonderfully pretty effect, 
 whilst the cold keeps the pate defoie gras firm and 
 fresh as it should be. Another variety is to set the 
 foie gras in slices on a large block of ice in the 
 centre of the table, the ice to be made luminous in 
 the method described. I recommend this noveltv to 
 the attention of hotel keepers who do elegant din- 
 ners, or even for first-class table d' holes." 
 
 DRAMATIC SUPPER. 
 
 "Supper served on the stage of the Gaiet6 Theatre 
 here on the occasion of the looth representation of 
 Le Grand Mogol, and offered bv the lessee, Mr. 
 Debruyere, and the authors of the piece, to the 
 actors and many representatives of Paris art, litera- 
 ture, society, and finance: 
 
 Potage Irma, Consomme Bengaline. 
 Truites du Gange, Sauce Brahma et Sauce 
 
 Vischnou. 
 
 Filet Mignapour aux Truffes et aux Champignons. 
 Jambon Crakson aux pointes d'Asperges. 
 
 Faisans et Perdreaux des Jungles. 
 Pate de Foie Gras a la Joquelet. 
 
 Salade Bayadere. 
 
 Bombe Nicobar. 
 
 Dessert. 
 
 VIMS, 
 
 Bordeaux retour de 1'Inde et Champagne 
 
 Grand Mogol. 
 Cafe. Liqueurs. 
 
 You will perceive that the coleur locale is well pre- 
 served." 
 
 A GOOD MENU. 
 
 " The following is a good menu, as I can vouch 
 from personal experience: 
 
 Consomme aux ceuf s poches. 
 
 Aloyau Portugaise. 
 Timbale de macaroni. 
 
 Cailles r6ties. 
 Cardons & la moelle. 
 Charlotte de pommes. 
 
 "Here is the recipe for the Aloyau Portugaise 
 mentioned above: Prepare a piece of faux -filet; lard 
 it; steep it in a little olive-oil and cognac-brandy 
 for an hour before cooking. Have stuffed tomatoes 
 and roast with your faux-filet. When it is ready- 
 place the tomatoes round the meat and pour Madeira 
 sauce over the whole." 
 
 GOOD COOKING IN POLITICS. 
 
 The World's statement commences as follows: 
 "Lord Cadogan's chef is unquestionably a factor in 
 politics, for the Lord Privy Seal's Saturday dinners 
 are, in their way, almost as important as Lady 
 Salisbury's Wednesday receptions." Our contem- 
 porary then goes on to praise the white dining room 
 of Cadogan House, and to describe the dinner to a 
 distinguished company, of which M. Isoard sends 
 us the menu here transcribed:
 
 TifE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 225 
 
 Consomme Profiteroles. 
 Creme d : Orge a 1'Ecossaise. 
 
 Filets de Truites, Sauce Genevoise. 
 Souffles d'Eperlans. 
 
 Cailles aux Raisins. 
 C6telettes d'Agneau aux Concombres. 
 
 Filet de Boeuf piqu, Sauce Madere. 
 Legumes. 
 
 Sorbets au Rhum. 
 
 Poulets d'Inde au Cresson. 
 Pains d'Epinards a 1'Espagnole. 
 
 Babas h 1'Allemande. 
 
 Xeiges au Moka. 
 Biscottes au Fromage. 
 
 A CHINESE DINNER IN NEW YORK. 
 
 Excise Commissioner William S. Andrews, who 
 has for years been ambitious to eat a regulation 
 Chinese dinner, ate one last night, and thinks that 
 he will be able to get out to-day. Wong Chin Foo 
 was his host. Dressed in an American derby and 
 overcoat and other American things, Wong led the 
 way to the Chinese chop house at 14 Mott street. 
 The Commissioner was in evening- dress. He 
 brought along two New York friends to help him, 
 and when they had mastered the chopsticks they 
 drove right through fourteen courses of d : "jier 
 without quailing. It took nearly three hours, and 
 this was the bill of the performance: 
 
 1. Tea, served in costly china cups. 
 
 2. Cake. 
 
 3. Lichee nuts. 
 
 4. Sweetmeats. 
 
 5. Roast duck. 
 
 6. Roast chicken. 
 
 7. Boned ducks feet fried, with mushrooms and 
 bamboo shoots. 
 
 S. Chicken bones fried in lard until the bone was 
 soft as the flesh, and dressed with Chinese sweet 
 pickle, ginger and celery. 
 
 9. American pike fried, with mushrooms and 
 water lily potato. 
 
 10. Cuttlefish, with Chinese sweet turnips and 
 saifun beans. 
 
 11. Tchowmien macaroni, flour stewed with 
 chicken, celery and mushrooms. 
 
 12. Chinese sausages, composition uncertain. 
 
 13. Citron soup, with shrimps. 
 
 14. Lotus seed and apricot seed soup. 
 Commissioner Andrews washed it all down with 
 
 three kinds of Chinese wine. One was the notnai- 
 dayo pear wine, the second a white wine distiHed 
 from rice, and the third Chinese gin made of apricot 
 seed. 
 
 A MEXICAN MENU. 
 
 The Mexican idea of the first meal in the morning 
 is a cup of coffee and a small loaf of bread or bis- 
 cuit. The guest may have that in his room if he 
 likes, and he can have it supplemented with a beef- 
 steak or eggs. At twelve o'clock dinner la comida 
 
 is ready. A bill of fare, just as brought from the 
 table of the Jardin, is subjoined in Mexican and 
 translation : 
 
 DINNER BILL OF FARE. 
 
 Soups. 
 A la Roiuada. 
 
 Rice. 
 
 Entrees. 
 
 Eggs in all styles. 
 
 MENU DE LA COMIDA. 
 
 Sofas. 
 A la Romana. 
 
 Arros. 
 
 Entradas. 
 
 Huevos al gusto. 
 
 Huachinango a la Ma- 
 
 ango a 
 tellot. 
 Beefsteak o'costillas. 
 Japonesas de salmi. 
 Salchichas conchiharos. 
 
 Fernerita con salpicon. 
 Chiles rellonos. 
 
 Asadoa. 
 
 Roastbeef. 
 
 Lfftimbres. 
 
 Califlores. 
 
 Papas al vapor. 
 
 Frijoles. 
 
 Pastres. 
 
 Fresas helado. 
 
 Cafe, tee. 
 
 Red snapper a la Matellot. 
 
 Beefsteak or mutton 
 chops. 
 
 Chicken croquettes. 
 Sausages with green peas. 
 
 Roast veal. 
 Stuffed chillies. 
 
 Roasts. 
 
 Roast beef. 
 
 Vegetables. 
 
 Cauliflower. 
 
 Boiled potatoes. 
 
 Beans. 
 
 Dessert. 
 
 Strawberries ice cream. 
 Coffee, tea. 
 
 This meal is $i. The dishes arc served one at a 
 time. A foreigner may be a little surprised at first 
 to find eggs elevated to such an important position 
 in the bill of fare they follow the soup but he 
 speedily discovers that Mexican eggs are always 
 fresh, and he takes his "huevos" boiled, fried, or in 
 omelet as regularly as the dinner comes round. The 
 Mexican cooks have learned that there can be an 
 excess of pepper to some tastes, and they serve 
 "con chile" or without it as desired, the fiery sauce 
 being provided in a bowl instead of being poured 
 over the eggs or meat before leaving the kitchen. 
 This is a great deal better than the old way, for a 
 stranger can learn to like the chilli a good deal 
 better if he takes it in homcepathic doses, instead of 
 burning his throat out in ignorance the first time of 
 sitting down to a Mexican meal. 
 
 TABLES VOLANTES OR FLYING TABLES. 
 The inventors have a long way to travel before 
 their tables can beat the magical appearance and 
 disappearance of some tables I have seen in well 
 managed hotels. Take this instance of preparation 
 for a ball supper: There was but one room in the 
 hotel large enough to dance in, and that was the 
 dining room. It was also the only room in which 
 to serve the supper. The question was how to use 
 it for both purposes at once without an awkward 
 break in the festivities, and as it was a grand ball, 
 instead of a social hop, a "handed -round supper" 
 would not do. There were two side rooms which 
 opened into the dining room and also on the outside, 
 and in these, without the least sign apparent to the 
 guests, six long tables were set complete with flow- 
 ers, lights, decorated pieces, salads, sweets, meats, 
 ices, etc., everything except coffee. It was arranged 
 with the musicians and the floor manager and at a 
 certain time by the clock the company were led in a 
 march to the further end, out of one door, through 
 a bay-windowed conservatory and back into the 
 dining room through another door, and as they
 
 226 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 entered they saw, where they had been dancing but 
 five minutes before, a brilliant set table nearly the 
 whole length of the room. They said, of course, it 
 was more like magic than common reality. If any 
 of them had turned their head, like Lot's wife, 
 while they were marching, they would have seen 
 the tables following them, for at the same signal each 
 of the six tables had been taken up by four waiting 
 men and carried as it was to the place previously 
 marked for it. When the supper was over the 
 tables were carried out with like expedition. 
 
 A QUOTATION MENU. 
 
 Private dinner at the Magnolia Hotel, St. Johns 
 River, Florida: 
 
 11UITRES. 
 
 "Lying with simple shells." 
 
 Chateau Yquem. Pericles, act Hi, scene. 
 
 "When the butt is out we will drink water; not 
 
 a drop before. Tempest, act Hi, scene it. 
 
 POTAGE. 
 
 Tortue verte, claire. 
 "A most delicate monster." 
 
 Duke's Montillo. Tempest, act ii, scene IT. 
 
 " Give me a cup of sack." 
 
 Henry IV, part i, act ii, scene h: 
 
 HORS D'oeUVRES. 
 
 Varies. Varies. 
 
 Petits vols-au-vent, a la financiere. 
 
 "A mystery; aye, sir, a mystery." 
 
 Measure for Measure, act iv, scene ii. 
 POISSON. 
 Pompano. 
 "A royal fish; it shall be divided." 
 
 / Black, Com., ccxxi:. 
 "That sort was well fished for." 
 
 Tempest, act ii, scene i. 
 Pommes de terre. 
 
 Concombres. Tomates. 
 
 Rudesheimer. 
 
 RELEVE. 
 
 Filet de boeuf, pique, aux truffes Perigord. 
 "What say you to a piece of beef and mustard?" 
 
 Taming of the Shrew, act ir<, scene lit. 
 "The ox knoweth its owner and_ the ass his master's 
 
 crib." Isaiah i, Hi. 
 Moet and Chandon's Cremant d'Ay. 
 
 "Come, thou monarch of the vine, 
 Plumpy Bacchus, with pink eyne." 
 Anthony and Cleopatra, act ii, scene TH. 
 
 ENTREMETS. 
 
 Points d'asperges au beurre. 
 
 Petits pois, a la Francaise. 
 
 Champignons, frais, au champagne. 
 
 "To feed on flowers and weeds of glorious feature." 
 
 Spencer : The Fate of the Butterfly, line aoq. 
 
 Pat^ de volaille en Bellevue. 
 
 "For this, be sure, to-night thou shalt have cramps; 
 1 Side-stitches that) shall pen thy breath up." 
 
 Tempest, act I, scene ii. 
 Chateau Margaux. 
 
 "The next they brought up was a bottle of wine as 
 red as blood." Banyan's Pilgrim's Progress. 
 Mayonaise de chevrette. 
 
 "This salad was born to do me good." 
 
 Henry VI, part ii, act iv. 
 Tomates, farcis, a la duchesse. 
 " 'Appetite comes with eating,' says Angeston." 
 
 Rabelais. 
 
 Grenadines de filet de chapon, a la Sultan. 
 "A feast of fat things." 
 
 Isaiah, xxr, ->. 
 
 Sorbet au fleur d'orange. 
 "What! must our mouths be cold :" 
 
 Tempest, act i, scene i. 
 ROTIS. 
 
 Bcasse. Becassines, a 1'Anglaise. 
 
 "What is the opinion of Pythagoras concerning 
 
 wildfowl ^Tioelfth Night, act h-, scene ii. 
 "The peacock is an aga, but the little bird is a bul- 
 bul." Thackeray, Oriental Love Song. 
 
 SALADE. 
 
 "My salad days,' 
 When I was green in judgment." 
 
 Anthony and Cleopatra, act i, scene ^. 
 Chambertin. 
 
 "We shall feast high with the blood of Burgundy." 
 Scott, Quentin Dur-:<drd. 
 
 SUCRES. 
 
 Omelette souffle. 
 Charlotte, a la Russe. Gelee au champagne. 
 
 "A wilderness of sweets." 
 Milton ; Paradise Lost, book r, line 234. 
 "We are such stuff 
 As dreams are made of." 
 
 Tempest, act iv, Scene i. 
 Glace Napolitaine. 
 "When it is baked with frost." 
 
 Tempest, act i, scene ii, 
 
 FROMAGE. 
 
 "Copia press! lactis." 
 
 Vergilius, Eel. i. 
 Roquefort. Stilton. 
 
 OLIVES. 
 "Let us have peace!" Ulysef. 
 
 FRUITS ET DESSERT. 
 
 "Stay me with flagons; comfort me with apples." 
 
 Song of Solomon, xi, v. 
 CAFE. 
 
 "Coffee, which makes the politician wise, 
 And see through all things with his half -shut eves." 
 Pope, Rape of the 'Lock. 
 Chartreuse. 
 
 "Good! yet remember whom thou hast abroad." 
 
 Tempest, act t, scene i. 
 
 Menu of the supper served at a great charity ball 
 given at the H6tel de Ville in aid of the poor of 
 Paris. The feast was served by Messrs. Polet and 
 Chabot, of the Rue Vivienne, at ten francs a head: 
 
 Consomme de volaille. 
 Truite saumonee, sauce verte froide. 
 
 Filet de boeuf glacee. 
 
 Galantine de poularde truffee. 
 
 Chaufroid de merles de Corse. 
 
 Pate's de foie gras de Strasbourg. 
 
 Salade Venetienne. 
 
 Dessert. 
 
 Bordeaux. Medoc. 
 
 Partaken of by at least five thousand persons, more 
 than a thousand being turned empty away.
 
 WHITEHEAD'S DICTIONARY OF DISHES. 
 
 CULINARY TERMS AND VARIOUS INFORMATION PER- 
 TAINING TO THE STEWARD'S DEPARTMENT. 
 
 ABALONE A shell fish cooked and served in 
 Chinese restaurants in California. The shell is pearl 
 of brilliant hues, largely employed In the decorative 
 arts. The abalone trade of California has been 
 recently estimated to amount to about $250,000 a year. 
 The flesh of these moll usks is preserved by drying 
 and afterwards prepared for use by soaking in hot 
 water; it is described as being tasteless and tough as 
 India rubber when first put into the mouth, but soon 
 breaks into granules with an agreeable flavor. 
 
 ABATOIR (Fr.) Slaughter house. 
 
 ABATIS (Fr.) Giblets. Pate aux abatis is 
 giblel pie. ABATIS DE DINDE A LA CHIPOLAT is 
 turkey giblets with sausages, etc. 
 
 ABERDEEN SANDWICHES Hot sandwiches 
 of fried bread in rounds like silver dollars, spread 
 with minced chicken or other meats well seasoned. 
 
 ABERNETHY BISCUIT A round, sweet 
 cracker flavored with caraway seed. Common in 
 English shops. 
 
 ABSINTHE An intoxicating liquor, a common 
 tipple in France, made of the extract of the weed 
 wormwood and caraway seed in alcohol. Occasion- 
 ally used in punches and fancy drinks. 
 
 ACCOLADE (Fr.) Brace, pair; accolade deper- 
 dreaux is brace of partridges. 
 
 ACCIDENTS Most frequently occurring in ho- 
 tels are burns, scalds and cuts. Handles come off 
 boilers of hot water or hot fat; frying vessels full of 
 boiling lard tip over, steam rushes out from under a 
 lid, or out of faucets instead of the water which has 
 boiled away; red hot iron range lids and griddles are 
 taken hold off by mistake, vats and tubs of boiling 
 water are stumbled into or overturned. Wounds are 
 received in cutting and chopping meat and in the 
 breakage of crockery and glass. In the treatment of 
 burns or scalds, the first object is to protect the in- 
 jured part from the air. Pieces of lint or cotton, 
 dipped in carron oil, will serve for this purpose. 
 Carron oil (so called from being much used for burns 
 at the Carron Iron Works, Scotland,) is a mixture of 
 equal parts of linseed oil and lime water. When 
 carron oil is not at hand, the burned or scalded part 
 may be covered thickly with flour, olive oil, or vase- 
 line. If some of the clothing sticks to the body, do 
 
 (227) 
 
 not try to tear it away; leave it alone and cut around 
 the spot. In severe burns or scalds, the services of a 
 surgeon should be secured as soon as possible. 
 When the injury is slight, baking soda, applied 
 either dry or wet, gives instant relief. For scalds 
 from steam or water or for slight burns, dip the part 
 in cold water and apply fine salt as much as will 
 adhere. This will usually prevent a blister. CUTS 
 In case of a ruptured artery, the flow of blod may be 
 checked by tying a twisted handkerchief, a cord, or 
 strap, bel-ween the -wound and the body. If the hand 
 is cut, raise the arm above the head and bind it 
 tightly. In mounds of the throat, armpit, or groin, 
 caused by cuts, and in case of any deep wound, 
 thrust the thumb and finger into the bottom of the 
 wound and pinch up the part from which the blood 
 comes, directing the pressure against the flow. If 
 the cut is slight, let the blood flow for half a minute, 
 then dip in cold water or apply ice. Draw the cut 
 edges closely together with adhesive plaster, or by 
 stitches and a bandage, and keep the part quiet. 
 Slight cuts will usually heal quickly. In severe 
 cuts, check the flow of blood and secure the attend- 
 ance of a physician as soon as possible. In cases of 
 asphyxiation by foul air, charcoal fumes, blowing 
 out the gas, drowning, etc., artifical respiration 
 should be induced. Loosen the clothing, or, better, 
 remove it; rub the body with warm cloths: grasp the 
 tongue with a towel and draw it forward; hold it 
 there for a moment, then turn the patient on his face, 
 with his forehead resting on one of his arms, and 
 apply hartshorn or snuff to the nostrils; then turn 
 the patient on his back, and dash first warm, then 
 cold water in the face. If this fails, grasp the arms 
 at the elbow and drav# them slowly upwards above 
 the head, keeping them there for two seconds; then 
 turn down the arms and press them firmly against 
 the ribs for two seconds, repeating these movements, 
 carefully and perseveringly, about fifteen times in a 
 minute, until respiration becomes natural; after this, 
 apply cloths wet with hot water to the limbs and 
 body, and cover with blankets. As soon as practic- 
 able give hot drinks. ( of poisoning see antidotes.) 
 
 ACETIC ACID Pastry cooks and confectioners 
 use 't in small quantities to whiten and stiffen cake 
 icing, and to prevent granulation in boiling sugar.
 
 228 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 ACI 
 
 It is vinegar concentrated and refined and costs but 
 little. Substitutes for it are lemon juice, cream tar- 
 tar, tartaric acid and citric acid. Acetic, boracic 
 and salycilic acids are all employed as dressings to 
 Jin-serve raw meats from spoiling when exported to 
 great distances. 
 
 ACID The harmless fruit acids used in cookery 
 are those named above (see acetic acid), obtained 
 from fruits of the citrus family, lemons, limes, etc., 
 the lees of wine and from vinegar. Oxalic acid is 
 poison though obtained from the weed oxalis or 
 sorrel, which we cook and is harmless. Prussic 
 acid is a poison although it is present in minute 
 quantities and gives the pleasant bitter flavor to the 
 leaves and fruit of trees of the almond tribe, which 
 are freely used. An acid stirred into a solution of 
 cochineal changes it from purple to scarlet, hence 
 cake icing and other substances colored with cochi- 
 neal have a brighter tint if they are slightly acid- 
 ulated. Lemon juice or other acids stirred into such 
 mixtures as boiling pudding sauce, tapioca or starch 
 jelly and some soups, generally will change their 
 bluish appearance to clear transparency. Lemon 
 juice or other acid is often required to make a sim- 
 ilar change in gelatine jelly and in strong consom- 
 mes, which sometimes become too rich and viscid 
 to pass through the strainer until cut with a dash of 
 acid. Acids act upon copper or brass so as to 
 brighten the surfaces. Acid and salt will clean a 
 copper or brass vessel, the brightened surface soon 
 tarnishes, however, unless dry polished afterwards. 
 Acids act upon copper and brass vessels in such a 
 way as to produce a poison called verdigris, which 
 forms at the edge where the air, acid and copper are 
 in contact. Stewed fruit, cranberries, pickles, slaw, 
 salads, etc., acquire a bitter taste and become poi- 
 sonous if left standing a few hours in copper or 
 brass, and brass spoons from which the plating is 
 worn off become coated with a bitter tasting poison 
 if left in dishes of fruit jelly, sauce, pickles, salads, 
 or anything that contains an acid. Acids act on 
 iron in such a way that sour bread dough set to rise 
 in iron pans becomes stained as with ink. They act 
 on tin and zinc to a less degree, but salads contain- 
 ing vinegar acquire an unpleasant metallic taste in 
 tin pans, and should be made and kept in glass or 
 earthenware bowls. Acids, like lemon slices or 
 juice or vinegar, will whiten boiling chickens, fish, 
 turkeys, calf's head, sweetbreads, etc., provided the 
 vessel used to boil in be bright and new, but if an 
 iron vessel or a tin one much worn, the action of the 
 acid will often spoil the appearance of the fish or 
 meat entirely by turning them blue and of a dirtv 
 color, and when such vessels with the tinning 
 mostly worn off must be used, the vinegar or lemon 
 juice should be omitted. (See boracic acid.) Acids 
 dissolve sea shells and egg shells immersed in them; 
 their action upon the lime of the shells produces a 
 slow effervescense until the lime is all driven off. i 
 In like manner lemon juice injures the finger nails, ; 
 mal'ing them brittle and jagged. A very slight ' 
 
 ADE 
 
 acidity or sourness is generally productive of white- 
 ness in bread and cake, while the opposite alkalim- 
 ity produces a yellow or dusk color, thus bread just 
 on the point of turning sour is the whiter, and bread 
 made with milk turns out whiter through the form- 
 ation of lactic acid or the souring of the milk in it 
 while rising, but the addition of soda to counteract 
 the slight sourness would make it a darker shade. 
 In cake -making the addition of lemon juice or cream 
 tartar alone produces both lightness and whitenes>, 
 while soda or baking powder added has the effect 
 to make the hue either dull yellow or grey. 
 
 ACID AND SODA The original baking powder 
 or yeast powder, mixed and used by cooks and bak- 
 ers before prepared baking powders became a reg- 
 ular article of manufacture and sale. (See baking 
 powder.) 
 
 ACID AND ALKALI Acids mixed with such 
 alkalies as soda, saleratus, potash, marble dust and 
 lime, when wetted, begin to change into gas which 
 rises into the atmosphere and is lost, but if the 
 change takes place within a lump of dough that 
 becomes light with innummerable bubbles of the 
 gas, which expanding still more with the heat in 
 baking make a light and spongy loaf. Soda foun- 
 tains are charged by placing marble dust, which is 
 one form of lime, in the generator, pouring dilute 
 sulphuric acid upon it and immediately screwing 
 down the lid. The acid and lime change into gas 
 which can only escape through a pipe into another 
 tight vessel nearly filled with water, where it re- 
 mains imprisoned until drawn from the soda fount. 
 Whether in bread or in a soda fountain, if the acid 
 and alkali are not properly matched in quantity, a 
 portion of either one or the other will remain behind 
 unused and unchanged in the bread or in the gener- 
 ator. When they are rightly proportioned they still 
 do not all go off in the gas, but leave a remainder, a 
 new compound called a salt, which may be only 
 common salt or may be something hurtful, accord- 
 ing to the kinds of acids and alkalis employed. Ac- 
 cording to one of the stories from history, Cleopatra 
 owned the largest and most valuable pearl in the 
 world of her day, and dissolved it in a cup of vine- 
 gar and drank it. Strong vinegar would dissolve 
 the pearl, considerable time being allowed, nitric 
 acid would have consumed it in a few minutes, yet 
 Cleopatra did not drink the pearl; it passed off in 
 the form of gas. If she drank during the efferves- 
 cense she drank a sort of soda water. If the pearl 
 and vinegar were just sufficient to neutralize each 
 other, when the pearl disappeared the vinegar had 
 lost its sourness and Cleopatra drank only water 
 containing a nearly tasteless tartrate. 
 
 ACID ICING Meringue or frosting made with 
 lemon juice in equal quantity with white of eggs. 
 
 ACIDULATED PUDDING Sponge cake 
 slices, saturated with lemon syrup and covered with 
 custard in a dish. 
 
 ADELAIDE SANDWICHES Hot rounds of
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 229 
 
 ADM 
 
 fried bread with minced chicken, etc., between, like j 
 Aberdeen sandwiches, with a small ball of cheese 
 baked upon top of each just before serving. 
 
 ADMIRAL PUDDING A boiled suet plum 
 pudding, made with mashed potatoes and carrots 
 'each in equal proportion to the flour. 
 
 ADMIRAL SAUCE Anchovy sauce with 
 chopped capers and shallots added, and very little 
 lemon rind; in other words, butter sauce with 
 pounded anchovies, shallots, capers and little lemon 
 rind in it; good for boiled fish. 
 
 ADAM'S APPLE The banana; supposed by 
 some to be the fruit of which Adam ate. 
 
 AERATED BREAD Bread charged with gas 
 the same as generated in soda fountains. The loaves 
 are inclosed in a tight mould, gas forced into them, 
 and baked. In baking, the gas expanding makes 
 the bread light. The effect is similar to mixing 
 acid and soda in the flour, but there is no residue of 
 salts left in the bread by this method, and there is 
 no loss of the flour as in fermentation, which pro- 
 cess changes part of the flour to a gas which raises 
 the bread. Companies with large capital are carry- 
 ing on the aerated bread business in several cities. 
 "The method of Dr. Dauglish, the results of which 
 are now made so well known by the catering energy 
 of the Aerated Bread Company, depends upon the 
 fact that water may be made to hold within itself a 
 large quantity of liquid carbonic acid under pressure, 
 which it liberates as gas when the pressure is re- 
 moved or diminished, as shown by soda water and 
 other aerated liquids. The flour, with as much salt 
 as is required, is placed in a strong air-tight vessel. 
 In another strong vessel is water highly charged 
 with carbonic acid under pressure, like soda water 
 in bottle. The two vessels communicate by a pipe 
 with tap; that containing the flour has a kneading 
 apparatus working through an air-tight stuffing- 
 box. On opening the tap the aerated water is forced 
 into the kneading vessel in due quantity, and the 
 flour is then worked into paste or dough while still 
 under pressure. On removing the pressure the car- 
 bonic acid expands, as it does in uncorking a soda 
 water or champagne bottle; but instead of escaping 
 freely, as in these cases, it expands the dough. By 
 a simple arrangement of a suitable outlet, the dough 
 may be squirted out by the pressure of the gas 
 within, and thus run into the form of a long cylinder 
 of required thickness for cutting up into loaves, 
 which must be baked without loss of time, as they 
 would otherwise collapse." 
 
 AERATED DRINKS Bottled soda, ginger ale, 
 etc., are flavored waters charged with gas by means 
 of a forced aparatus made for the purpose. 
 
 AERATED WATERS A few natural mineral 
 waters are slightly aerated, discharging air bubbles 
 as they rise in the spring. Some of these and others, 
 found suitable, are artificially charged. 
 
 AERATED WINES Imitation wines and cham- 
 
 ALA 
 
 pagnes are made effervescent as if fermented by 
 being charged with gas like aerated drinks. 
 
 AGARIC Mushroom, (botanical name), also the 
 name recently adopted for a bottled liquor or bitters 
 designed to fill a long felt want in prohibition com- 
 munities. There are hundreds of species of agaric 
 or mushroom, and one kind, amanita muscaria, pro- 
 duces intoxication and is eaten or rather taken in 
 doses by people in some parts of the world for that 
 purpose. 
 
 AGNEAU (Fr.) Lamb; selle d'agneau is saddle 
 of lamb; quariier d'agneau is quarter of lamb. 
 
 AGNEW PUDDING English name for an 
 apple cream pie. 
 
 AIGLE DE MER French name of the hornfish. 
 
 AIGRETTES AU PARMESAN Cheese puff 
 fritters, or beignets souffles, with grated Parmesan 
 cheese mixed in the batter. 
 
 AILERONS (Fr.) Pinions; ailerons de dinde is 
 turkey wings; ailes de poulets, chicken wings. 
 
 AITCHBONE or EDGEBONE The cut of beef 
 in the hindquarter at the end of the loin, between 
 that and the rump. The meat lies in detached layers 
 with skin and gristle between ; inconvenient to cut 
 into steaks; it makes a second rate or help's roast 
 and is good to salt and boil. 
 
 ALASKA TROUT (salmo purpnratus) A var- 
 iety different from the Atlantic trout in its markings, 
 being spotted with black spots of the size of buck- 
 shot. 
 
 A LA MODE BEEF SOUP An English soup 
 in which the meat is stewed to pieces and served 
 with it, brown and thick. 
 
 A LA MODE BEEF SHOPS "Upon entering 
 the a la mode beef refectory, an astonishing sight 
 met my view. The patrons were all seated, but 
 how? Little benches, scarcely more than a yard 
 long, accommodated each of them two customers. 
 In front of them was a little table a foot and a half 
 wide, and this was shared by the people on the 
 bench opposite. In fact, on every square yard and a 
 half, or thereabouts, four people were eating, the 
 food being brought to them at call by the waiters. 
 At one end of the long room, which must have held 
 more than three score eaters, was a man who ladled 
 out of the huge cauldron the thick soup and stewed 
 beef known as a la mode, and passed it on to the 
 waiters, who flicked it to their customers. It was 
 evidently the staple dish of the establishment and 
 was very savoury. It had the odour a strong one, 
 certainly of a wholesome but highly flavored mess, 
 and I am bound to say that those who were devour- 
 ing it seemed satisfied." 
 
 A LA MODE BEEF An English dish not to 
 be confounded with the boeuj a la mode of the French. 
 Take eight or ten pounds of beef (the rump or but- 
 tock) or the same weight of a breast of veal. Divide 
 into neat pieces of three or four ounces in weight.
 
 230 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 ALB 
 
 Put it into a large stewpan with four ounces of good 
 beef dripping; but first make the dripping hot, and 
 flour the meat. Add a couple of large onions, 
 minced very fine, dredge flour, and stir with a 
 wooden spoon for about ten minutes, or until the 
 contents of the pan be thick; then pour in about one 
 gallon of water. Do this gradually, stirring all to- 
 gether. Bring it to a boil; then skim, and add one 
 drachm of ground black pepper, two of allspice, and 
 two bay -leaves. Set the pan where it will stew 
 gently for about three hours. When the meat is 
 tender, serve. 
 
 ALBANY CAKES The same batter as for 
 " popovers," baked in shallow pans to make a thin 
 muffin. Hot for breakfast 
 
 ALBEMARLE PUDDING Sugar, eggs and 
 pounded almonds in equal weights beaten together 
 to a froth and baked in a tin. 
 
 ALBUMEN White of egg is albumen in its 
 purest form. It is abundant in the flesh of chickens, 
 . rabbits, fish, and is a constituent of all sorts of meat 
 in a greater or less degree. WTien chicken mefct or 
 chopped beef is set over the fire in cold water, the 
 water becomes milky while heating through the al- 
 bumen flowing out of the meat. When boiling heat 
 is reached, the milky appearance is changed to per- 
 fect clearness of the water, and the albumen has 
 risen to the surface in the form of scum. If the 
 chicken had been dropped into boiling water, the al- 
 bumen and other juices would not have flowed from 
 the meat, but remained within it. This is why a leg 
 of mutton or other fresh joint should be set on to 
 cook in boiling water, that the gravy may be kept in 
 the meat until it is cut; the albumen of the outside 
 cooks instantly and keeps in the juices. But to make 
 soup or stews the meat should be put on in cold 
 water. Albumen is used in immense quantities in 
 manufactures, especially in calico printing. The de- 
 mand for albumen has led almost to the extermina- 
 tion of the immense flocks of wild birds, such as 
 snipe, plover, curlew, widgeon and various species 
 of ducks which breed on the islands of the northern 
 sea and formerly swarmed at certain seasons along 
 our coasts, for their eggs have been gathered by the 
 vessel load year after year, until there was no longer 
 a harvest left to gather, unless new breeding places 
 could be discovered. A new source of supply of 
 albumen has now sprung up; the blood from the 
 large slaughter houses is contracted for by firms 
 that makes a business of extracting the albumen 
 from it for use in the arts, and convert the remainder 
 of the blood into fertilizers. (See article on eg-ffs.) 
 
 ALBERT CAKE Is sponge cake with finely 
 chopped almonds and candied orange peel and a 
 little ground spice mixed in. 
 
 ALBERT BISCUITS Same as the above, baked 
 in small moulds like small sponge cakes or savoys. 
 
 ALBERT PUDDING Steamed pound pudding 
 with raisins in it. The mould it is steamed in isbut- 
 
 ALK 
 
 tered and lined with strips and stars of citron and 
 figs. Brandy sauce. 
 
 ALCOHOL Much employed formerly to burn in 
 lamps under chafing dishes, but made too dear for 
 general use by the revenue tax. It is in use still by 
 persons who take pleasure in preparing special 
 dishes over the flame of a lamp at their own table. 
 Alcohol is the medium employed to unite with the 
 essential oils of fruits to make flavoring extracts; 
 extract of lemon, orange, vanilla, etc., are made by 
 mixing oil of lemon with alcohol or steeping the 
 vanilla bean in it. Sticks of cinnamon, broken nut- 
 megs, bruised ginger, cloves, peach kernels, blades 
 of mace and various other flavoring substances may 
 be used to make ordinary extracts for cooks and 
 bakers by putting them to steep in bottles of alcohol, 
 which may be drawn off into other bottles when 
 strong enough and refilled. It is alcohol that burns 
 when fire is set to brandy or rum for omelets or pud- 
 ding sauces, and when the spirit used will not burn, 
 a little alcohol added to it cures the difficulty. Alco- 
 hol is useful to remove grease stains, and to clean 
 silver, glass, mirrors, etc. Rose flavoring and other 
 flower flavors, such as orange flower, may be made 
 by steeping the flower leaves solid packed in a jar of 
 sweet oil for several days, pressing out the oil and 
 mixing it with alcohol, then distilling the alcohol 
 which carries the flower flavor with it into another 
 vessel. 
 
 ALDERMAN'S PUDDING Sort of custard 
 pie or cheese-cake, with currants, raisins, suet, 
 grated rind, bread crumbs and eggs in three pints of 
 milk. 
 
 ALE POSSET A hot drink; an old English form 
 of egg-nogg, made by pouring a pint of boiling ale 
 to a dozen beaten eggs with sugar, nutmeg and, 
 sometimes, a glass of brandy. Served with toast. 
 
 ALEWIFE An American fish of the herring 
 family, smaller than a shad. 
 
 ALEXANDRA PUDDING A boiled bread cus- 
 tard with fruit in it, made by filling a mould or basin 
 with bread crumbs, having currants and raisins 
 mixed in, and pouring in eggs mixed with cream or 
 milk in custard proportions, sweetened and flavored; 
 boiled 2 hours, tied down with a floured cloth. 
 Cherry jam or dilute preserves for same. 
 
 ALKANET ROOT Used about furniture by 
 the repairers; it makes a red stain for wood. 
 
 ALKALIES Soda, saleratus, potash, borax, lye, 
 ammonia, quinine, morphine, are some of the alka- 
 lies; they neutralize acids by combining with them 
 in the form of gas and salts, hence act as antidotes 
 to acid poisons; they combine with oils and fats in 
 the form of soap; they change a red solution of 
 cochineal to blue; added to the water in which green 
 vegetables are boiled, they keep them green where 
 otherwise the vegetables would be almost black, but 
 if in excess they change the green to yellow and 
 dissolve the leaves and stems. They help to restore
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 231 
 
 ALL 
 
 tainted meat by counteracting that part of the taint 
 which is only sourness caused by hot packing and 
 keeping in bulk. 
 
 ALLEMAXDE (a /') German style. 
 
 ALLEMAND SAUCE A yellow or cream-col- 
 ored sauce made of broth seasoned with mushroom 
 liquor, parsley and onion, thickened with white 
 roux and yolks of eggs, and little lemon juice to 
 finish. Good for fish, chicken, etc. 
 
 ALLSPICE Pimento, a common spice useful in 
 mincemeat and common brown cakes and puddings, 
 when ground, and in the whole state is used in pick- 
 ling, in pig's feet, tripe, sweet pickles, etc. The 
 cook needs a small quantity ready in the spice box 
 to add to some kinds of soup, and game entrees, the 
 pastry cook uses a small amount, whole, to boil in 
 gelatine jelly. 
 
 ALLIGATOR STEAK Slices cut from the 
 fleshy tail of young alligators are sometimes cooked 
 and tasted, if not eaten, from motives of curiosity, 
 hv Southern tourists. The meat is somewhat like 
 boiled beef, is not objectionable in taste, but is 
 sinewy and tough and seldom provokes a second 
 trial. An English traveler in South America found 
 that young alligators were regularly sought after to 
 be used for food, and he partook of some, stewed, 
 which he compared to the favorite flatfish sole in 
 taste. 
 
 ALLIGATOR EGGS Are eatable and some- 
 times displayed for sale in Florida markets. They 
 are esteemed by the natives of the \Vest Indies, and 
 so are crocodile's eggs in the East. 
 
 ALLIGATOR A*PPLE Name of the custard 
 apple of the West Indies. Eaten raw. It is called 
 the coster in the British West Indies, and being 
 formerly sold by peddlers in London caused them to 
 be called costermongers, a name now applied to all 
 small peddlers of marketings. 
 
 ALLIGATOR PEAR A fruit of the West 
 Indies. Is common also in Mexico where it is called 
 the arocado (advocate). It is eaten raw in the same 
 ways as muskmeions, usually with salt and pepper, 
 and is sliced up in salad with oil and other dressings. 
 
 ALLUMETTES D'ANCHOIS (Fr.) Strips of 
 anchovies wrapped in paste and fried. 
 
 ALMOND The nut is the seed of a fruit of the 
 peach kind. There are several varieties; the bitter 
 almond is one of them; it is used sparingly to add 
 flavor to the sweet almonds in various .preparations. 
 A substitute for bitter almonds is peach kernels. 
 The hard-shell almonds have a higher flavor than 
 the soft-shells, and are to be preferred for cooking 
 purposes. ALMOND PASTE The read- -prepared 
 almond paste can be used in nearly all recipes where 
 the directions are to blanch and pound the almonds 
 in a mortar, a proceeding which consumes much 
 time, the paste is about one-half almonds and one- 
 half sugar. It is sold at confectionery supply stores 
 jn five and ten pound tins at about twenty-five cents 
 
 ALM 
 
 per pound on the average. To use it, shave slices as 
 thin as possible and roll and crumble the shavings 
 into the sugar which is to be used to make the cakes, 
 etc. ; for liquid uses, pound the shavings in a mor- 
 tar, with sugar and milk, till thoroughly divided. 
 ALMOND CAKES No. I - Half pound each almonds 
 (or paste), sugar and flour, J pound butter, 8 eggs; 
 mixed like pound cake. No. 2 -Half pound almond 
 paste, 4 eggs, i ounce butter, J^ pound flour; butter 
 and yolks worked with the almond paste, whites 
 whipped, and flour last. JVo.j-A.ny white cake, 
 silver cake, starch cake, etc., made with a proportion 
 of almonds or paste, becomes almond cake. (See 
 Albert cake.) ALMOND ROUT CAKES Almond 
 paste with yolks of eggs enough to make it into a 
 dough that can be worked into fancy patterns and 
 shapes, glazed with gum arabic and ornamented, 
 dried, then carefully baked. ALMOND DARIOLES 
 Pastry cream or frangipane, same as used to fill 
 cream puffs, with almonds, almond paste or extract 
 in it; bake in paste-lined patty pans. ALMOND 
 NOUGAT Made same as common peanut candy, 
 with a pound of blanched and parched almonds in 
 half pound of sugar melted, light brown. ALMOND 
 ICING (yellow) Made with a pound of sugar, half 
 pound pounded almonds and yolks of eggs to make 
 paste, or with almond paste, sugar and yolks; spread 
 over cakes before the white icing. ALMOND ICING 
 (white) Ordinary white icing, with chopped al- 
 monds or almond paste mixed in to spread on cakes 
 for a first coat, and smooth icing afterwards. 
 GATEAU DE AMANDES A LA PARISIENNE Almond 
 cream pie made by mixing almond paste in pastry 
 cream or frangipane. (See almond darioles and 
 cream pies.) These, however, are baked on jelly 
 cake pans instead of pie plates. ALMOND CUP CUS- 
 TARDS or ALMOND CREAMS Boiled custard, with 
 almond paste added, served in custard cups with 
 whipped whites on top. ALMOND MACAROONS 
 (hard) No. i -Almond paste or pounded almonds 
 mixed with pound cake or other cake batter, small 
 lumps baked on pans or paper. No. 2-Two-thirds 
 sugar, one-third almond paste or crushed or minced 
 almonds, \vhite of egg to wet it into dough; small 
 lumps baked on pans or paper; slack oven. ALMOND 
 MACAROONS (soft) Light, hollow; made with a 
 pound of sugar, one ounce corn starch, half pound 
 crushed almonds, three whites, beaten light, baked 
 slack on sheets of paper, taken off paper by brush- 
 ing bottom with water. ALMOND FINGERS Cake 
 icing with almond paste mixed in, run on pans like 
 lady -fingers; slack bake. ALMOND CREAM PIE 
 Pastry cream made of milk, sugar, flour, eggs and 
 crushed almonds or paste, baked in a thin crust of 
 puff paste. ALMOND NOUGAT CAKE White almond 
 candy in a shape, made of one pound sugar, two 
 pounds shred almonds, dried and warm, and a table- 
 spoon of vinegar to dissolve the sugar over fire; al- 
 monds mixed in after sugar melts; flattened on slab 
 and pressed into mould like a lining; can be filled 
 with cream. ALMOND CHEESE CAKES Almond
 
 232 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 ALM 
 
 cream pies made in small patty pans; same mixture 
 may have whipped whites of eggs stirred in or on 
 top. ALMOND CROQUANTES Nearly same as rout 
 cakes; made by moistening almond paste with yolks 
 of eggs, or pounding almonds and sugar and yolks 
 together; rolling out in sugar, cutting shapes, bak- 
 ing, then dipping in boiling- sugar, and drying. 
 ALMOND CUSTARD Custard either baked or boiled, 
 flavored with almonds or almond extract. ALMOND 
 CREAM ICE English for almond ice cream. ALMOND 
 ICE CREAM Any ice cream or frozen custard having 
 almond paste mixed in. BISQUE OF ALMONDS Al- 
 mond ice cream in moulds. ALMOND CHOCOLATE 
 Bleached almonds dipped in hot chocolate icing and 
 dried on paper. ALMOND BLANC MANGE Blanc 
 mange or Bavarian cream with almonds or paste 
 in it. ALMOND FRITTERS Same as cream fritters 
 or fried cream made with corn starch, with almond 
 paste in it, cut like cold pudding in pieces, breaded 
 and fried. ALMOND JUMBLES Same as hard maca- 
 roons rolled out like cookies. ALMOND MERINGUES 
 Same as egg- kisses or meringues a la cream, with 
 shred almonds and granulated sugar dredged on be- 
 fore baking may be filled two together with almond 
 cream or served plain. ALMOND OMELET An or- 
 dinary omelet with almond paste crumbled in sugar 
 strewed on it and rolled up in it, more on- top, and 
 glazed with hot iron. SALTED ALMONDS Almonds 
 blanched, sprinkled with salt and a little cayenne, 
 fried in butter till a rich gold color, drained on paper; 
 served cold with salt. DEVILLED ALMONDS En- 
 glish name for salted almonds. ALMOND PUDDING 
 No. /-Made of fine bread crumbs and almond paste 
 mixed in, like bread custard pudding. No. a- A. 
 steamed batter pudding with bread crumbs, almond 
 paste and whipped whites in the batter, in moulds 
 or cups. No. 3- A. white cake mixture with raisins 
 and almond paste in it; steamed. ALMOND CRO- 
 QUETTES Almond paste and sponge cake crumbs 
 moistened with sweet wine and white of egg, made 
 into croquette shapes, breaded and fried. ALMOND 
 SOUP No. /-Any cream soup may have a puree of 
 almonds added for flavor and the name. No. a- A. 
 milk soup made without meat, but with a paste of 
 pounded almonds and also shredded almonds in it. 
 No.j-The original potage a la reine is said to have 
 been a cream of chicken and almonds. ALMOND 
 HEDGEHOG Made with almond paste, eggs, flour, 
 butter, cream and flavoring stirred over fire until 
 stiff enough to form in the shape of a hedgehog on 
 dish a sort of rich hasty pudding, in effect, or 
 pastry cream made stiffer stuck full of split al- 
 monds to represent spines; served with sauce like 
 pudding. ALMOND LAYER CAKE Almond paste 
 stirred into boiling syrup, yolk of eggs to thicken it, 
 spread between layers of thin cakes, or rolled like 
 jelly roll; can be made white instead of yellow by- 
 using whites to thicken. ALMOND PASTE ADUL- 
 TERATION It is charged against the manufacturers 
 by the analysts that the almonds are first deprived 
 
 ALL" 
 
 of their oil, which is a separate article of com- 
 merce, and are then flavored with prussic acid. 
 
 ALOSE (Fr.) Shad. 
 
 ALOUETTE (Fr.) Lark. Aloueties a la minute, 
 a hasty dish of larks, French restaurant specialty 
 prepared as follows: Sautez in butter twelve larks 
 (cleaned and plucked, of course). Withdraw as 
 soon as the butter has colored them. Brown in the 
 same butter two or three minced shallots, a pinch 
 of parsley, and twenty mushrooms sliced. As soon 
 as the mushrooms are cooked, add a spoonful of 
 flour, and moisten with a glassful of white wine and 
 a small cupful of bouillon. Allow the larks to stew 
 for some minutes in this sauce. Brown in butter 
 crofltons of bread, as many as there are birds. 
 Serve each lark on a crouton and pour over the dish 
 the mushroom sauce. Other small birds may be 
 prepared in the same way. (See Afauriettes.) 
 
 ALOYAU (Fr.) Sirloin of beef. 
 
 ALPHABET PASTES For soup; the same 
 paste as macaroni and spaghetti, but stamped into 
 very small letters or ornamental shapes which swell 
 in boiling. Can be bought in packages, one pound 
 or less. Not expensive. 
 
 ALUM In a powdered state has been extensively 
 employed as an adulterant in bread; it has much the 
 same effect as a slight tendency to sourness in the 
 dough has in whitening the bread; it has some effect 
 in preventing certain constituents in flour from 
 changing, into a gummy and transparent appear- 
 ance, which makes the bread look dark. Bakers 
 find that second-rate and soft, flour is corrected by 
 the use of alum, so that it produces a more saleable 
 loaf than better flour would without such treatment. 
 Alum is, however, unwholesome, while not posi- 
 tively poisonous; it is a mineral salt, which, regu- 
 larly taken into the stomach, causes great injury to 
 health; the bread adulterated with it is damaged 
 also in its keeping qualities, and becomes unduly 
 dry and tasteless in a day after baking. Stringent 
 laws have been passed in various countries to sup- 
 press this practice; in Paris as many as forty bakers 
 at one time have been fined, their shops closed and 
 their business suspended by law, as a punishment 
 for using alum in bread; prosecutions, convictions, 
 fines and imprisonment have occurred in most large 
 cities of the United States for the same cause. The 
 bakers' journals deny now that this practice pre- 
 vails to any considerable extent, and a state of opin- 
 ion has been worked up in the trade which causes it 
 to be considered disgraceful and dishonest to resort 
 to the practice. The adulteration of bread with 
 alum seems to be on the decrease. In hotel bakeries 
 there is no need of resorting to such expedients. 
 Alum is one of the injurious ingredients in inferior 
 baking powders. It is useful in pickling, to make 
 the pickles firm and brittle; it is used in making 
 cochineal coloring, in very small amounts, and dye- 
 ing, etc., to set the colors. Plain alum, and its de- 
 rivative, the bisulphate of alumina, have a remark-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 233 
 
 AMA 
 
 able effect in clarifying- muddy water, and the former 
 is extensively employed for that purpose. A small 
 quantity a tablespoonful powdered mixed with a 
 barrel of Mississippi river water renders it quite 
 clear after standing an hour or two, and the impur- 
 ities are coagulated together by its action so that 
 they can be removed by straining. The immense 
 filtering works which now operate to purify the 
 entire water supply of some cities are based upon 
 this singular property of the mineral salt alum. 
 Powdered alum is useful in case of a cut to apply 
 to stop the flow of blood. 
 AMANDES (Fr.) Almonds. 
 AMANDES PRALINEES (Fr.) Burnt al- 
 monds; parched and sugared almonds. 
 
 AMBROSIA Literally food for the gods; a bowl 
 of sliced oranges and pineapples, grated cocoanut, 
 sugar and wine. 
 
 AMBER CLEAR SOUP A name for clear 
 soup, bouillon or consomme. 
 
 AMBER JELLY A name for gelatine jelly 
 when of an amber or golden color. Amber is a sub- 
 stance like jellow glass or rosin, found on the sea 
 coasts, used for mouth-pieces in pipes, and in jew- 
 elry. 
 
 AMBER PUDDING A boiled or steamed 
 lemon bread pudding. 
 
 AMBERGRIS Literal meaning grey amber, 
 used by the liquorists to flavor cordials, bitters, etc. ; 
 highly valued in perfumery. It is a substance of 
 the consistency of wax, found in sperm whales; 
 also found floating in masses, weighing one or two 
 hundred pounds in the Indian Ocean. Ambergris 
 flavor is said to be a favorite with the Prince of 
 Wales, and confectioners and caterers use it the 
 more on that account. AMBERGRIS ESSENCE Made 
 of an ounce of ambergris steeped in a quart of proof 
 spirit in a warm place for a month, the mixture is 
 then filtered. Two or three drops will flavor a quart. 
 AMBERGRIS CREAM A whipped cream stiffened 
 with gelatine (Bavarian cream), flavored with am- 
 bergris essence and colored yellow, set in a mould 
 on ice. AMBERGRIS JELLY Gelatine or calf's-foot- 
 jelly, flavored with ambergris. 
 
 AMONTILLADO Name of a popular brand of 
 sherry, served with fish. 
 
 AMMONIA Hartshorn; sal -volatile; -volatile 
 alkali ; smelling salts. Carbonate of ammonia is 
 used by bakers to raise cakes; it is much stronger 
 and more effective for the purpose than baking pow- 
 ders. The quantity used is about the same weight 
 for weight as baking powder; the cost, in an aver- 
 age way, is about the same. The ammonia changes 
 to vapor in the oven and expands the dough it is 
 mixed with. The method of using is to crush the 
 lumps to a white powder and dissolve it in the liquid 
 that makes the dough. Ammonia is but little used 
 in hotels, the odor from the baking being objection- 
 able. A proportion of ammonia mixed with baking 
 
 ANC 
 
 powder makes it stronger as long as it is kept 
 tightly closed in glass jars. Liquid ammonia is one 
 of the most serviceable alkalies for cleaning silver 
 and removing grease stains. A small lump of am- 
 monia dropped into the water with peas or aspara 
 us or other green vegetables, will keep them green 
 while boiling. 
 
 AMOURETTES DE VEAU (Fr.) Tendons of 
 veal; the gristly part of the breast; the edge of the 
 brisket stewed tender. 
 ANANAS (Fr.) Pineapple. 
 ANCHOIS (Fr.) Anchovy. 
 
 ANCHOVY A little sea fish caught in the Medi- 
 terranean. It has a high flavor, is used as an ap- 
 petizer and in sauces. It is preserved in salt brine; 
 can be bought either in bottles or small kegs of one 
 or two quarts' size. Anchovies as a cold hors 
 cTantvre are served uncooked. Wipe, split, serve in 
 oil like sardines with garnish of eggs, parsley, lem- 
 ons, etc., and, uncooked, they are cut in pieces in 
 some sorts of salads. ANCHOVY ESSENCE is a pink- 
 colored, oily, thick sort of sauce; can be bought in 
 bottles. One London firm is said to have almost a 
 monopoly of the manufacture, making nine-tenths 
 of all the anchovy essence used in the world. The 
 essence consists of pounded anchovies simmered 
 with water, vinegar, spices, mushroom catsup and 
 the brine the fish were preserved in, all passed 
 through a seive, bottled and corked down while hot. 
 Adulterated or spurious samples have been found to 
 contain starch for consistency and Venetian red for 
 color. Anchovy essence is used to flavor fish sauce, 
 (.tee admiral sauce or sauce a i'amiral), and as a 
 finish to turtle soup, and especially for imitations or 
 soups made of fresh water turtles. The largest sea 
 turtles possess the anchovy flavor so strong as to 
 make them scarcely eatable. ANCHOVY PASTE An- 
 other name for anchovy butter. ANCHOVY BUTTER 
 Anchovies washed, boned, pounded with soft butter 
 through a seive; may be mixed with parsley and 
 lemon juice; is used to spread upon hot, broiled beef- 
 steak and upon toast, also in pats to garnish dishes 
 of broiled or boiled fish. It can be made as well by 
 stirring anchovy essence into softened butter. AN- 
 CHOVY POWDER Anchovies passed through a seive, 
 made into a paste with flour, baked dry in thin cakes, 
 powdered and used for flavoring. FRIED ANCHO- 
 VIES Split, boned, dipped in fritter batter and fried 
 same as anchois a la d'Horly. ANCHOVY SAUCE 
 Butter sauce, hot, highly flavored either with an 
 chovy essence or chopped anchovies and lemon juice, 
 served with fish and steaks. ANCHOVY OMELET 
 Fillets (boneless sides) of anchovies laid on an om- 
 elet, not rolled but flat in the pan, another flat om- 
 elet turned upon it and the cooking of the inside 
 finished in the oven. ANCHOVY TOAST Slices of 
 toast, either buttered and with the boneless sides of 
 anchovies with mustard and cayenne laid upon 
 them, or toast spread with anchovy butter. AN- 
 CHOVY PATTIES Small pieces of fish forcemeat
 
 234 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 ANC 
 
 mixed with Anchovy butter baked inside of two flats j 
 of puff paste. ANCHOVY TAR TINES Round and 
 thin slices of bread or biscuits, buttered, anchovies 
 in oil (like sardines) cut in thin strips and arranged 
 crosswise upon them, the spaces filled with minced 
 eggs, pickles, etc.; lunch dish. ANCHOVY SAND- 
 WICH Thin sliced bread spread with anchovy butter 
 or puree of anchovies with butter. ANCHOVY 
 EGGS Hard boiled eggs cut in halves, the yolks 
 taken out, rubbed through a seive, seasoned with 
 anchovy essence and butter, put back in the whites 
 served, garnished, either hot or cold. ANCHOVY 
 BREAKFAST CAKE Rice (boiled) stirred up with an- 
 chovy essence, butter, flour and eggs, and baked. 
 ALLUMETTES D'ANCHOIS (See page 2Jf.) 
 
 ANCHOVY PEAR A fruit of the West Indies. 
 
 ANCIENNE (a f) Ancient style; in the old- 
 fashioned way. 
 
 ANDALOUSE (a /") In Andalusian or Spanish 
 style. ANDALUSIAN SOUP A brown beef soup with 
 puree of tomatoes added, and slight flavor of garlic. 
 
 ANDOUILLES (Fr.) Chitterlings. 
 
 ANDOUILLETTES (Fr.) Small sausages. 
 
 ANDOUILLETTES AUX HUITRES (Fr.) 
 Oyster sausages. (See oysters.) 
 
 ANDOUILLETTES DE TROVES GRILLEES 
 Veal sausages broiled; a specialty of the great 
 London grill rooms. 
 
 ANGELS ON HORSEBACK English foolish 
 name for oysters wrapped in bacon and broiled. 
 
 ANGEL FOOD A fanciful name found in 
 many cook books, applied to some light dessert, us- 
 ually of whipped cream; also to a white sponge 
 cake. 
 
 ANGEL CAKE Fanciful name of the whitest 
 and lightest of all cakes; a white sponge cake of 
 recent invention, made of one pound sugar, one 
 pound whites, half pound flour, one ounce cream 
 tartar, and some flavoring. 
 
 ANGEL FISH A sea fish of the shark family, 
 eatable, but not desirable; named so by sailors on 
 account of its broad, wing-like fins. 
 
 ANGELICA A plant, the stalks of which are 
 preserved like citron or watermelon rind. It is val- 
 ued for its green color for decorative purposes in 
 confectionery; often mentioned in Old ^Vorld con- 
 fectionery books, but seldom met with and scarcely 
 obtainable in this country ; old-fashioned or obsolete. 
 
 ANGELICA WINE A California sweet wine 
 made from angelica grapes; useful for frozen 
 punches, pudding, sauces, wine jelly, etc., and not 
 expensive. 
 
 ANGLAISE (a /') In English style. 
 
 ANGUILLES (Fr.) Eels. 
 
 ANILINE The brightest coloring for confec- 
 tionery. The red shades from pink to purple are 
 perfectly harmless, and if they were not the quan- 
 
 tity required to color is so extremely small that no 
 injury could ensue. The greens and yellows in ani- 
 line colors are all more or less poisonous and cannot 
 be admitted to the pastry or confectionery room. 
 Aniline is one of the many products of petroleum. 
 Some years ago, when petroleum and the substances 
 obtained from it were new and but little understood, 
 a French chemist undertook to ascertain the effects 
 of aniline upon the human system by taking doses 
 of it himself, increasing the quantity daily, and 
 came to these conclusions, viz. : Aniline, pure, has 
 no effect, either good or bad. The chemicals used 
 to make aniline red are perfectly harmless. The 
 chemicals used to make aniline green, blue and yel- 
 low, are arsenic and other injurious substances. 
 Consequently the reds may be safely used, but not 
 any other colors. The quantity needed is scarcely 
 more than five cents' worth for six months; the dip 
 of a cork will color a gallon; buy dry aniline an* 
 dissolve in warm water. 
 
 ANISEED A small seed used for flavoring, 
 nearly resembling caraway and celery seed; used oy 
 bakers and liquorists. ANISETTE A liquor, like 
 absinthe and kummel, made from aniseed in spirits. 
 Used sometimes for flavoring punches and sherbets. 
 ANISEED OR ANISETTE RUSKS Sponge cake or 
 other kinds flavored with a spoonful of aniseed, 
 baked, sliced, then dried in the oven. ANISETTE 
 SLICES Slices of cake freshly cut from a cake of 
 Scotch shortbread, which has been flavored by hav- 
 ing aniseed mixed in. Aniseed is sometimes mixed 
 with rye-bread and various sorts of cakes by Ger- 
 man bakers. Its price is unsettled, but is usually 
 about So cents per pound at retail. 
 
 ANNA POTATOES OR POMMES A 
 I/ ANN A Said to have originated at Delmonico's. 
 Potatoes pared and sliced raw; replaced with butter 
 between each slice and baked until done. Rich and 
 expensive on account of the large quantity of very 
 best butter required. 
 
 ANNATTO Butter color. It is used to color 
 butterine and other spurious butters, and is used in 
 the creameries to give the uniform color to the bfst 
 butter as well. The natural yellow of pure grass 
 butter is different from annatto color in that the nat- 
 ural is at the deepest only the bright yellow of the 
 sunflower, annatto makes an orange color. Mixed 
 lots of butter from country stores, no two samples 
 being alike, are sometimes worked over with an- 
 natto to make marketable as creamery butter. An- 
 natto is a gummy substance, something like wax, of 
 a dull red color in its dry state. Obtained from the 
 fruit of a tree that grows in the tropics. Is often 
 called Spanish annatto. Costs about fifty cents a 
 pound. It cannot be dissolved perfectly in water; 
 dissolves partially in milk, in cream, and most 
 thoroughly in warm oil or melted butter. 
 
 ANTELOPE The antelope of the western 
 plains, being the fleetest of foot and most numerous, 
 survives the buffalo, mountain sheep and black-tail
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 235 
 
 ANT 
 
 deer and still constitutes a very considerable portion 
 of the game supply of the cities. Antelope meat is 
 not as highly esteemed as venison, bnt may easily 
 be mistaken for it in the market. Only the hind 
 quarters are shipped in and they are usually 
 wrapped in the skin of the fore-quarter, in addition 
 to their being unskinned. The hair is very loose, 
 coming out by the handfuls and proves very trouble- 
 some to remove from the meat if once brought in 
 contact. Antelope is the tenderest or softest of all 
 meat; young animals are excellent eating; the flesh 
 of the older ones is as dark as calf's liver and is apt 
 to have a musky taste, which, if not really objec- 
 tionable to those who like game, still serves to dis- 
 tinguish it from deer meat and prevents its substitu- 
 tion. Cranberry or currant jelly is the best sauce. 
 ANTELOPE STEAKS Are slices cut from the leg; 
 should be cut thick and slightly flattened. ANTE- 
 LOPE CUTLETS The loin cut into chops. SADDLE 
 OF ANTELOPE The two loins undivided. HAUNCH 
 OF ANTELOPE The two loins and legs undivided, 
 but shortened by removing the inferior part of the 
 legs. The fore -quarters of antelope are not unfit to 
 eat, the rib chops and shoulders being good, but are 
 thought too light to pay for shipping. To COOK 
 ANTELOPE Besides the hunters' ways of broiling, 
 frying and stewing, and the specially American 
 method of baking and serving with cranberry sauce, 
 antelope may be advantageously cooked and sauced 
 in any of the ways prescribed for venison, roebuck, 
 and the like; young antelope is specially good 
 larded with fat pork and cooked like filleted rabbits. 
 
 ANTIDOTES Any substances which counter- 
 act the effects of poisons. When poison has been 
 swallowed, first and instantly dilute the poison with 
 large draughts of warm water, either clear, orj if 
 the particular poison is known, containing the pro- 
 per antidote. Exite vomiting. Protect as much as 
 possible the lining of the stomach from contact with 
 the poison by large and frequent doses of sweet oil, 
 mucilage of gum arable, flaxsecd tea, milk, melted 
 lard or butter. A general antidote, where the name 
 of the poison is unknown, is a mixture of carbonate 
 of magnesia, powdered charcoal, and hydrated 
 se^uioxide of iron, equal parts in water. Mineral 
 acid poisons are counteracted by powdered chalk, 
 whiting, magnesia, or lime scraped from a wall and 
 stirred in water. Also by soap suds, sweet milk, 
 soda or saleratus, all in very small doses at first. In 
 case of oil of vitriol or sulphuric acid, water must 
 not be used too freely at first, as heat and gas are 
 dangerously produced in the stomach by their meet- 
 ing (see acid and alkali^). Lye, caustic potash, am- 
 monia and other alkaline poisons are counteracted 
 by vinegar, lemon juice, or acidulated water, to be 
 followed immediately with sweet oil, mucilage and 
 an emetic. Arsenic, rat poisons, poisonous color- 
 ings, pans green, etc., give five or six whites of 
 eggs beaten in a cup of water, or flour and water, 
 flaxseed tea or magnesia, and administer an emetic. 
 After the vomiting, give hydrated sesquioxide of 
 
 API 
 
 iron in tablespoon doses every fifteen minutes. This 
 is the best known antidote for arsenic. Corrosive 
 sublimate or bed-bug poison, treatment the same as 
 for arsenic. Phosphorus, cochroach paste, matches, 
 give large quantities of warm water containing cal- 
 cined magnesia, chalk or whiting. Verdigris, 
 give sugar, milk and whites of eggs in large quan- 
 tities, then strong tea, but no acids of any kind. 
 Laudanum, opium, morphine, give an emetic, strong 
 coffee, brandy, whisky, and keep the patient awake 
 by any means. Poisonous fungi, toadstools, false 
 mushrooms, give emetics and castor oil or olive oil, 
 the'n vinegar, lemon juice or cider, and administer 
 ether and antispasmodic remedies. TANNIN is an 
 antidote, and an infusion of gall nuts or oak bark is 
 effective. 
 
 ANTISEPTICS Among substances called anti- 
 septics or disinfectants, are carbolic acid, salicylic 
 acid, boracic acid, chloride of zinc, and iodoform. 
 Chloride of lime, in water used for scrubbing and 
 washing, is the ordinary disinfectant for floors, fur- 
 niture and linen. 
 
 ANTHRACITE The name of the kind of coal 
 commonly called hard coal. It is nearly pure car- 
 bon, makes no flame, but when in combustion at 
 white heat, it will convert a spray of water into 
 flame, and cooking operations are sometimes ac- 
 celerated by that means. 
 
 ANTS Small red ants overrun the safes and cup- 
 boards where eatables are kept; they are particularly 
 troublesome by getting into sugar and syrup; they 
 will attack a sponge cake, go all through and make 
 an ant-hill of it, and will eat bread, but will not 
 touch any cake that has butter in it, nor any kind of 
 pastry made with butter or lard. The small black 
 ants are the most troublesome about cooked meat 
 and in clothing, and from their power to sting. A 
 temporary protection may be had by setting the feet 
 of the safes and cupboards where victuals are kept 
 in bowls of water. When the ants can be traced to 
 their burrows, they may be exterminated most easily 
 by throwing boiling water around frequently. 
 When that is not practicable, it is recommended to 
 take corrosive sublimate say half a pound and 
 dissolve it in a quart of alcohoj, and apply the mix- 
 ture to their haunts with a brush. Black ants may 
 be driven away or destroyed by dusting with pep- 
 per. Powdered alum or borax sprinkled on the 
 shelves and runways are also recommended. 
 
 APICIUS A Roman spendthrift, gourmand or 
 glutton, whose extravagance made him memorable. 
 There were three of the same name at different pe- 
 riods, distinguished by the same propensities. The 
 second one seems to have- spent most of his time 
 sailing about to various ports, trying to find some- 
 thing better to eat, and had a special hankering after 
 large lobsters. The most famous one had a middle 
 name, when he wrote it in full it was Marcus Gabius 
 Apicius. He set up a school of cookery, and spent 
 millions of dollars in pampering his appetite. After
 
 236 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 APP 
 
 a while, when he had got so that nothing tasted 
 good to him any more, and he had only half a mill- 
 ion dollars left to hire professional cooks with, he 
 committed suicide to save further expenses. API 
 CIAN FEASTS or banquets worthy of Apicius, are 
 expressions sometimes used by reporters. 
 
 APPERT'S PROCESS The now common can- 
 ning process of preserving fruit and vegetables and 
 all sorts of eatables by hermetically sealing and 
 cooking, was formerly called Appert's process of 
 preserving, after M. Appert, a French chemist, who 
 discovered it. It is claimed now that his was but a 
 re-discovery, and that the same method of preserv- 
 ing was known to the inhabitants of Pompeii. It 
 is said that jars of figs, sealed with wax and still in 
 a good state of preservation after the laps of many 
 centuries, were found in the excavations of that 
 buried city. 
 
 APPETIZERS Appetissanls, cold horscTauvres, 
 kickshaws, side dishes; these are the small things 
 eaten as a preliminary to a good dinner, supposed to 
 create an appetite for something- more substantial, 
 though, as one of George Eliot's characters says : 
 " It is poor eating when the flavor o* the meat lies i' 
 the cruets." The favorite in the United States, 
 probably, is raw oysters, four or six on a plate, with 
 half a lemon and crackers. Next to oysters, small 
 clams. Others are as follows: SARDIXES AU PAR- 
 MESAN Strips of toast spread with butter and grated 
 Parmesan cheese and a sardine on top. ROTIES A 
 LA MINIME Split sardines on oblong pieces of fried 
 bread, served with a sauce of oil, vinegar and mus- 
 tard. CANAPES A LA PRINCE DE GALLES Very 
 small rolls filled with chopped ham, anchovies, 
 gherkins and truffles, the top covered with asoic 
 mayonaise. TARTINES DE CAVIARE Russian cav- 
 iare spread on small slices of buttered toast. BIS- 
 CUITS A LA DIABLE Thin beaten biscuits spread 
 with chopped anchovies, hard-boiled egg, capers 
 and parsley. CROUTES A L'INDIENNE Chopped an- 
 chovies or sardines, eggs, capers, red pepper and 
 shallots on small buttered toast. CROUTES AUX 
 ANCHOIS Small rounds of fried bread spread with 
 anchovy butter and a filleted anchovy coiled on top. 
 CROUTES AUX SARDINES Same as the preceding. 
 CANAPES AUX ANCHOIS Rounds of fried bread 
 with chopped anchovies and capers and yolk and 
 white of egg arranged in quarters. SARDINES A LA 
 MARTINACHE Sardines dipped in tomato catsup laid 
 upon toast spread with butter and parsley. OLIVES 
 FARCIES AUX SARDINES Stoned olives stuffed with 
 chopped sardine placed on top of small rounds of 
 fried bread spread with mayonaise and decorated 
 with capers. ARLETS A LA BOLOGNA Strips of 
 brown bread and butter sprinkled with finely chop- 
 ped spring onions, a thin slice of sausage or potted 
 meat and spot of tabasco sauce. HORS D'CEuvRES 
 VARIEES may be: Farced olives with cucumbers 
 and pulled bread, smoked salmon in thin strips on 
 brown bread and butter, with garden cress cut short 
 
 APP 
 
 and sprinkled; caviare with potted tongue and thin 
 biscuit; anchovies or sardines on bread and butter 
 with sliced radishes and leaves of water cress; 
 Roquefort cheese with green butter and radishes on 
 graham crackers; anchovies and potted ham on wa- 
 fers; sardines scraped, boned, laid in strip-> cross- 
 wise on buttered roll, with capers in the interstices, 
 and a sprinkling of chili vinegar; sardines in halves, 
 minced yolk and white and parsley placed ornament- 
 ally on bread and butter, sprinkled with tarragon 
 vinegar; caviare spread on Vienna bread garnished 
 with water cress; shrimps or prawns on rounds of 
 bread buttered, with the smallest lettuce leaves be- 
 tween, sprinkled with tarragon vinegar; grated ham 
 and tongue on rounds of bread buttered, sprinkled 
 with minced spring onions; caviare spread OH dia- . 
 monds of rye or other bread, garnished will', lemon 
 and parsley; thin slices of large lemons with sardines 
 or anchovies coiled, bread and butter and parsley. 
 (For other suggestions see anchovies, sardine*, cav- 
 iare, etc.) At club dinners and other entertainments 
 many of these relishes are served with the cheese at 
 the close of the meal. A recent innovation is to 
 serve slices of mushmelon or cantelope with salt and 
 pepper, among the hors tfteuvres. 
 
 APPLES Uses of: APPLEADE A sort of beer 
 made of J bushel apples, baked and mashed, a 
 pounds rice boiled soft in 2 gallons water, all put in 
 a tub having a faucet, 7 gallons boiling water and 4 
 pounds sugar added, and some yeast, when cool. 
 After 24 hours, strain off into a tight keg for use or 
 sale. BOTTLED APPLEADE Same as above except 
 using about an ounce of Irish moss instead of rice, 
 and lemon rind added; bottled, and cork tied down. 
 APPLE CHAMPAGNE Flavor said to be like cham- 
 pagne; made of 2 poundd apples, baked and mashed 
 with i gallon boiling water, J^ pound sugar added 
 and yeast when cool; allow to ferment 24 hours, 
 strained through flannel, bottled and corks tied or 
 wired. APPLE AND APRICOT COMPOTES OK ME- 
 RINGUES A dish buttered and spread with fine 
 bread crumbs, nearly filted with mixed apple and 
 apricot marmalade, meringue or frosting on top, and 
 baked. COMPOTE OF APPLES Apples in halves 
 dropped into boiling sugar syrup, cooked carefully 
 without breaking until transparent; syrup navwed, 
 perhaps colored, is boiled down thick and poured 
 over them cold. APPLE BUTTER Apples pared and 
 cored, boiled down in an equal measure of swee; 
 cider; is light brown, thick as marmalade; will keep 
 for months, can be bought in various sized packages, 
 is often imitated with stewed dried apples; APPLE 
 CHARLOTTE A pan or mould lined with thin slices 
 of bread dipped in butter, nearly filled with stewed 
 apple or marmalade, top covered with bread, baked 
 brown, glazed with egg and sugar. CHARLOTTE 
 DE POMMES A LA PARisiENNE An apple charlott2 
 in which the slices are cut to form a pattern on the 
 bottom and sides of a thickly buttered mould, the 
 edges being dipped in egg; after baking turned out 
 whole and glazed with egg and sugar, set in the
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 237 
 
 APP 
 
 oven to crisp, or salamandered. GERMAN SOUFFLE 
 Thick-stewed apple in a dish, thick yolk of egg 
 boiled custard poured upon it, white of egg whipped 
 stiff, sweetened, flavored, piled on top and lightly 
 colored in the oven. GERMAN APPLE CAKE A 
 very thin sheet of light roll dough spread upon a 
 baking pan, cored and quartered apples pressed into 
 the dough raw, sugar sifted over, allowed to rise; 
 then baked until apples are done. MARYLAND 
 APPLE CAKE A shallow mould lined with sweet 
 tart paste, nearly filled with thick-stewed apples or 
 marmalade, well flavored with ground cinnamon, 
 paste on top, dry baked, turned out when cold and 
 sugared over; is also served warm as a sweet entree. 
 FRIAR'S OMELET A pan or mould spread with soft 
 butter and all the fine bread crumbs that will stick, 
 apple marmalade mixed with eggs and nutmeg to 
 nearly fill, covered with bread, baked until set, 
 turned out and sugared over. ENGLISH APPLE 
 PUDDING A deep bowl lined with short paste, filled 
 with sliced apples, covered with paste, tied down in 
 cloth, boiled an hour, served with sauce or sugar 
 and butter. BOILED APPLE DUMPLINGS Short 
 paste made with y 2 pound of shortening to I pound 
 flour, rolled thin, cored apple inclosed in it, dropped 
 into boiling water till done. STEAMED APPLE 
 DUMPLINGS Paste with J pound shortening to I 
 pound flour, apple core filled with sugar, etc., in- 
 closed and steamed. BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS 
 Medium puff paste or rich short paste, apple in- 
 closed, leaves of paste or other ornaments on top, 
 washed over with egg and water, and baked' 
 APPLE DUMPLINGS IN SAUCE Made same as 
 steamed, but baked in a pan of sweetened milk and 
 water. APPLE SHORT-CAKE Extra rich, ripe apples 
 chopped raw, spread between short-cakes, (like 
 straw berry short-cake) eaten with sweetened cream. 
 APPLE COBBLER Southern States' name for apple 
 pie baked in an ordinary baking pan and cut out in 
 squares to serve. BROWN BETTY A buttered pud- 
 ding dish filled with alternate layers of bread 
 crumbs, thinly sliced apples, sugar, little nutmeg, 
 finished with crumbs on top and bits of butter, baked 
 brown; served as pudding. APPLE OMELET 
 Stewed apples beaten smooth, 5 tablespoons of it 
 with 3 of sugar and i of flour stirred into 3 well 
 beaten eggs with i spoonful of brandy; can be either 
 baked or cooked in frying pans. FROSTED APPLES 
 Apples pared, not cored, stewed in syrup until, 
 transparent, without breaking, then drained, dipped 
 in beaten white of egg and in powdered sugar, and 
 dried in the oven with very little heat. APPLE 
 FRITTERS Pared and cored apples cut in rings, dip- 
 ped in fritter batter, fried in hot fat, served with 
 sweet sauce; also served with roast duck, goose and 
 pork. APPLE AND CREAM PUDDING A mould but 
 tered and lined with rich short paste, quarters of 
 apples built up all over the surface of the paste, the 
 middle filled with pastry cream or frangipane made 
 thick, paste cover, tied in a cloth and boiled an hour 
 or more, turned out and diluted jam poured over. 
 
 APP 
 
 RICE APPLE DUMPLINGS Cored and sugared apples 
 inclosed in a covering of boiled rice pounded to a 
 paste, floured outside, tied up separately in cloths 
 and boiled until apples are done; served with sauce. 
 APPLE AND RICE PUDDING Any rice pudding with 
 quartered apples cooked in it. APPLE TAPIOCA 
 A pudding without eggs, milk or butter, made by 
 soaking J^ pound tapioca for 2 hours in i quart of 
 water, stirring in a little sugar, spread in a dish or 
 pan, the top covered with quartered apples, and 
 baked. APPLE TAPIOCA PUDDING The pudding- 
 made firm with tapioea and eggs, and sliced apples 
 mixed in, and baked. APPLE SNOW Apples stewed 
 thick and pressed through a colander, beaten up 
 when cold, then mixed with whipped white of egg 
 and powdered sugar; served cold in saucers of 
 cream. APPLE MARMALADE Apples stewed thick 
 and pressed through a colander; sugar, orange peel, 
 lemon peel, cloves or any other suitable flavor added, 
 dried down till thick enough to keep without spoil- 
 ing. APPLE SAUCE Stewed slices of apples with a 
 little sugar and water. APPLE PUREE Same as 
 apple snow, served in custard cups with whipped 
 cream on top. APPLE TRIFLE Same as apple snow, 
 with thick, cold boiled custard ready; the puree 
 piled in a glass dish and the custard around it. 
 APPLES AND RICE Same as compote of apples, rice 
 cooked with milk and little sugar, smoothed over in 
 the serving dish, and apple on top, custard or col- 
 ored wine syrup poured over or around it. APPLE 
 BREAD One-third apples, two-thirds flour, apples 
 stewed as dry as can be, mashed through a strainer 
 and used to mix the dough instead of water; yeast, 
 etc., same as usual; baked in loaves DRIED APPLE 
 BREAD (/) Dried apple boiled until done [but not 
 mashed], drained, stirred up in corn bread, baked in 
 flat cakes. (2) The same stirred up in short-cakes of 
 wheat flour and baked an inch thick in a frying pan 
 over a slow fire. SNITZ Pennsylvania-Dutch name 
 for dried apples. LODWAERRICK Ditto for apple 
 butter. DRIED APPLES Are of two or more kinds, 
 the home-made or sundried generally the cheaper, 
 but by many preferred, and the light-colored, nearly 
 white evaporated, which are in some places treated 
 with sulphur fumes and dried in a current or cold 
 blast of air upon selves moving upwards in a dark- 
 ened shaft, whence they emerge almost ready for 
 packing; these apples, with careful cooking, can be 
 restored very nearly to the appearance of the fresh 
 fruit. APPLE PIE (/) A pie plate covered with 
 rich, short paste, heaped full of thin-sliced apples 
 with sugar and nutmeg or cinnamon dusted in, edges 
 wetted, cover of paste put on, washed over with egg 
 and water. (2) A lower crust only, of short paste, 
 stewed apple filling, strips across top. (j) A thin 
 bottom crust with thicker edges of puff short paste, 
 raw apples very thin sliced in, sugar, butter, wine 
 mace added; no top crust; bake slowly. ENGLISH 
 APPLE PIE A deep earthenware dish lined with 
 short paste, filled with sliced apples, sugared and 
 flavored ; baked with a crust on top. FRENCH APPLE
 
 238 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 APP 
 
 PIE or TOUKTE Small pie phitc covered with thin 
 sheet of puff paste with thicker edges, filled with 
 apple marmalade; baked without top crust. APPLE 
 TURNOVERS Rounds of rich paste cut with scall- 
 oped edges or plain ; a spoonful of apple marmalade 
 in center, doubled over to half-moon shape, egged 
 over, dipped in granulated sugar and baked till 
 glazed. GATEAUX FOURES DE POMMES A I.A PAR- 
 ISIENNE The French name of apple turnovers. 
 CHARTREUSE DE POMMES A chartreuse of apples 
 made by parboiling slices of apples, cut in shapes, 
 in strong jelly of different colors, building up the 
 slices on the inner surface of a mould wetted \vith 
 jelly and set in ice, and filling the center with jelly- 
 stiffened marmalade; to be turned out and served 
 with cream and cake. BAVAROIS AUX POMMES 
 Whipped cream and apple marmalade mixed with 
 gelatine enough to set the mixture firm enough to 
 turn out of the mould. BEIGNETS DE POMMES A LA 
 D'ORLEANS Apple fritters with a sweet or wine 
 sauce. BEIGNETS DE POMMES A I.A BAVARIE Ap- 
 ples soaked in brandy, rolled in flour and fried. 
 CRISPED APPLES- American name for the preceding. 
 BUTTERED APPLES Halved apples baked in a cov- 
 ered pan with butter and sugar, and served on thin 
 rounds of fried bread. POMMES AU Riz A LA 
 CONDE Halved apples stewed in syrup, served 
 either upon or around a shape of boiled rice, and 
 diluted apricot jam poured over. BAKED APPLES 
 The fruit cored, not pared, core holes filled with 
 sugar, butter and little cinnamon; baked with very 
 little water, and basted. PAIN DE POMMES A LA 
 RUSSE A border mould of apple jam or marmalade 
 stiffened with gelatine, turned out cold, center filled 
 with whipped cream and melted currant jelly round. 
 APPLES A LA PORTUGAISE Like the miro'oti ; 
 stewed in syrup, not divided, syrup colored red, re- 
 duced and poured over; apples, garnished with spots 
 of red jelly. APPLES A LA CHERBOURG Cut in 
 blocks or shape of bottle corks with tube cutter, 
 compoted in lemon syrup; eaten with cream. 
 APPLES A LA MARIE STUART Baked apple dump- 
 lings in puff paste, the apple core-holes filled with 
 thick cream before baking. APPLE CUSTARD PIES 
 Several variations are in use; in England they are 
 called puddings; Marlborough pudding is one; 
 apple marmalade is mixed either with eggs and wine, 
 or with eggs, butter, wine and grated lemon rind, or 
 with milk or cream and eggs, etc., and in all those 
 ways, as well as with curd; bread crumbs, currants 
 and eggs, goad pies, tarts and cheese cakes are made 
 and still further varied by frosting the top of some 
 and making various sizes and shapes. APPLE FOOL 
 Old English name for stewed fruit, mixed and eaten 
 with milk, cream or custard. APPLE TARTLETS OR 
 PUFFS Flat rounds of puff paste, size of biscuits, 
 the middle cut half way through with smaller cutter; 
 baked dry; they rise high; the center is taken out 
 and deep cavity filled with apple marmalade or jelly. 
 APPLEJELLY The jelly-making quality of apples, 
 varies greatly; crab apples yield the strongest and 
 
 APP 
 
 clearest; some seeding varieties, good for nothing 
 else, make the best jelly; i pound of sugar to i pound 
 of fruit and % pint water, boiled, strained through 
 flannel, tested by cooling, and, if not firm, boiled :\ 
 longer lime. (See jellies.) VOL-AU-VENT OK AP- 
 PLES Puff paste laid on a pie plate as if for a pie; 
 a mark like a lid cut around near the edge with the 
 point of a knife; when baked and risen the lid lifted 
 off and inside filled with compote apples. GATEAU 
 DE POMMES A mould of stiffened apple marmalade ; 
 served with custard. GATEAU DE POMMES AUX 
 APRICOTS A mould of gelatine-stiffened apple 
 marmalade covered with apricot marmalade. MIKO- 
 TON DE POMMES Cored apples, not divided, care- 
 fully cooked in syrup, drained, garnished in a dish 
 with dried or glace fruits; red, currant jelly diluted 
 with wine poured over. CROQUETTES DE POMMES 
 Apple paste cut in pieces, breaded and fried. 
 APPLE PASTE Marmalade dried down gradually in 
 a cool oven till it can be spread out in a sheet like :i 
 piece of dough, cut in any shape, rolled in powdered 
 sugar; variously colored and flavored, this apple 
 paste is used by bakers to ornament cakes, and ;s 
 sold as candy in various fancy forms. APPLE 
 SANDWICH A layer of apple sauce on a slice of 
 bread, covered with a layer of whipped cream. 
 FRIED APPLES A breakfast dish, also served with 
 all forms of pork; commonly sliced without paring 
 or coring; the peel helping to preserve their shape 
 the slices are simply fried a few at a time in frying 
 (saute) pans with a spoonful or two of pork fat or 
 butter, and when brown on one side are turned over 
 one by one; large quantities can be done in the oven 
 if not too many in the pans at once. BROILED AP- 
 PLES Same way as broiled potatoes; slices done in 
 the double-wire broiler, buttered while cooking. 
 APPLES WITH SAUSAGES Fried slices, same as with 
 spareribs and pork tenderloin; this is the German as 
 well as American habit; the Flemings eat baked ap- 
 ples with black puddings. STEAMED OR BOILED 
 APPLE ROLL A thick layer of chopped apples 
 spread upon a thin sheet of short paste or biscuit 
 dough, rolled up, tied in a cloth at both ends and in 
 the middle, boiled or steamed an hour or longer; 
 served with rich sauce. BAKED APPLE ROLL The 
 preceding egged over and baked with a greased 
 paper cover over; crust needs to be richer. PAINTED 
 LADIES Whole (pared) apples cooked in syrup 
 under cover in the oven; when done, each side col- 
 ored with red jelly, syrup condensed with wine 
 poured over cold. GERMAN APPLE MOULD One 
 pint Rhine wine, I pound sugar, i pound apples 
 stewed and mashed through a colander, gelatine to 
 set it, colored pink, moulded; eaten cold. APPLE 
 BATTER PUDDING Pared and cored apples baked in 
 a pan under paper cover; when done, an egg batter 
 made with little flour poured over the apples, and 
 baking continued. Another way is to bake a thin 
 Yorkshire pudding with sliced apples in it. APPLE 
 CIDER The expressed juice of apples. APPLE 
 BRANDY Distilled from either cider or crushed ap-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 239 
 
 pies. APPLE JACK. New Jersey name for apple 
 brandy; it is plentiful in most of the eastern states, 
 is generally cheaper than any other spirit and serves 
 a good purpose in cooking, for sauces and for mak- 
 ing flavoring extracts. CIDKE ROYAL OR EAU DE 
 VIE DE CIDRE French name for apple jack. " It is 
 the favorite spirit drunk in Xormandy; it is also 
 called Calvados, and generally known as such by 
 the Parisians, being chiefly made by the apple- 
 growers in the Calvados department. It is in every 
 way preferable to the so-called cognac, which is 
 made out of anything but wine; sold in France." 
 WHISKY OR BRANDY APPLES Pared and cored ap- 
 ples, to every pound % pound sugar, I lemon, % gill 
 whisky or brandy, spices; apples simmered in them 
 without breaking, same as compote apples; placed 
 in jars, syrup boiled down and poured over them; 
 will keep for months. FROZEN APPLE CREAM 
 Marmalade mixed with as much cream, whipped, 
 filled into fancy cases and set in the freezing box to 
 solidify; served as ice cream. APPLE ICE CREAM 
 Apple marmalade and cream or custard mixed and 
 frozen. APPLE ICE Stewed apples flavored with 
 orange and cloves, with twice as much water, well 
 sweetened, frozen and beaten up with whipped white 
 of egg in the freezer to make it creamy. APPLE 
 AND RICE FROZEN PUDDING Custard with boiled 
 rice and thick-stewed apples frozen; also, apple ice 
 and rice custard are frozen separately, but served to- 
 gether. APPLES Stewed with sour krout and also 
 with cabbage; also boiled whole, with kidneys, are 
 considered an improvement to the respective dishes 
 in certain localities. APPLE AND WATER CRESS 
 SALAD Shredded apples and water cress cut to a 
 corresponding size, tossed up with salt, vinegar, 
 pepper and oil. APPLES IN MINCEMEAT A surplus 
 may be used up in this way, as mincemeat will keep 
 and will sell. APPLES CANNED They are put up 
 in gallon cans for use in regions where there are no 
 fresh apples; are good for nearly all the purposes of 
 the fresh fruit, being generally in unbroken quarters, 
 and being free from waste; are not dear. APPLES 
 TO KEEP A better way than in the cellar is to make 
 aheap of them on the ground in the orchard; if a 
 large quantity, the heap should be a long one, as ap- 
 ples heat if in great bulk; cover with dry straw or 
 hay, then cover with 6 inches of earth; increase the 
 depth of covering before severe frost comes, but the 
 apples are better kept cold than too warm. If a very 
 large lot, have a wooden pipe ventilator inserted. 
 Should apples accidentally freeze in the pit, let them 
 alone and keep air from them, and they will come 
 out afterwards unhurt, but if handled whi'e frozen 
 will be fit for nothing but cider. Car-loads of apples 
 frozen on the railroads during sudden storms are 
 often saved by being at once worked up into cider. 
 
 APRICOTS Name is from two words signify- 
 ing early ripe. It is mentioned by the gardener in 
 Shakespeare's "Winter's Tale," yet only grows in 
 England when protected by a south wall. It reaches 
 the greatest perfection in California, perhaps also 
 
 APP 
 
 in Australia, where, a traveler says, some were 
 brought to him three inches in diameter. It is 
 plentiful in France; is a fruit of a delightful flavor 
 and most useful. RIPE APRICOTS Are among the 
 choicest fruits for the table. They are generally 
 wrapped in paper separately and boxed suitably for 
 hotel buyers. BISQUE OF APRICOTS Ice cream 
 with chopped ripe apricots stirred in, the cream or 
 custard previously flavored with the broken kernels 
 and parings simmered in syrup. APRICOT ICE 
 CREAM Canned or stewed apricots mixed with 
 cream or custard and frozen. APRICOT SHERBET 
 Pulp of cooked apricots, about a pint to 2 quarts 
 water and 2 pounds sugar, frozen, and whipped 
 whites of 5 or 6 eggs beaten in. APRICOTS WITH 
 RICE In all the same ways as apples. APRICOT 
 SHORTCAKE With fresh ripe fruit, same as apple, 
 peach and strawberry shortcake. APRICOT ROLL 
 With fresh fruit or with jam, same as steamed or 
 baked apple rolls. PETITS GATEAUX DE ABRICOT 
 Made with apricot marmalade, same as apple turn- 
 overs. APRICOT TART A LA METTERNICH An 
 open pie of puff paste, quarters of apricots and 
 pitted cherries laid in and sugared over, baked, and 
 cream -flavored with the kernels poured on top when 
 served. APRICOT TARTLETS Small vol-au-vents 
 of puff paste, as for apple tartlets; the inside lid 
 large enough for half a preserved apricot, the lid 
 not to be replaced, but decoration of red jelly placed 
 around the fruit. GREEN APRICOT PIE The 
 young and unripe fruit is considered to make choice 
 tarts, puddings and pies; it is stewed in syrup until 
 quite tender, then baked in a covered pie, or baked 
 in puff paste without a top crust for a tart. BAVA- 
 ROIS AUX ABRICOTS Apricot marmalade mixed 
 with an equal measure of cream whipped to froth 
 and stiffened with gelatine, nearly an ounce to each 
 quart; set in a mould, turned out, served with mara- 
 schino cream. ABRICOT PUREE Stewed and 
 strained apricots well sweetened, beaten light, 
 mixed with whipped cream, served cold in custard 
 cups with cake. GATEAU DE MILLE FEUILLES 
 Thousand leaf cake; a pile of thin, round pieces of 
 puff paste, spread with two or three kinds of mar- 
 malade and apricot marmalade on top, decorated 
 with candied cherries. GATEAU GENOISE AUX 
 ABRICOTS^ A pound jelly cake spread and covered 
 with apricot marmalade and served with whipped 
 cream. TOURTE D'ABRICOTS A L'ALLEMANDE 
 An open pie of puff paste, with halves of apricots 
 and marmalade for filling. APRICOT FLAN An 
 open pie like the above, with custard poured on top 
 of the fruit instead of marmalade, and baked in it. 
 POUDING AfX ABRICOTS Like apple cream, pie- 
 stewed apricots mixed with rich custard and bread 
 crumbs, baked in a crust. APRICOT FRITTERS 
 Halves of apricots, either canned or fresh, drained, 
 dipped in fritter batter, tried; served with wine 
 sauce. BEIGNETS D'ABRICOTS A L'EAU DE VIE-^- 
 Rounds of bread dippped in brandy, joined to half 
 an apricot dipped in batter und fried. APRICOT
 
 240 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 APP 
 
 OMELET Made same as apple omelet. COMPOTE 
 OF APRICOTS A UA CONDE Halves of apricots on a 
 bed of cooked rice, the latter sweetened and fla- 
 vored, red syrup or jelly for a finish. APRICOT 
 WINK Made by boiling apricots with sugar and 
 water, fermenting same as appleade, but becomes a 
 fine wine if carried through all the processes and 
 kept a year. (See -wines). CROUTES AUX ABRICOTS 
 Halves of preserved or compote apricots on fried 
 slices of bread cut in shape; the syrup poured over. 
 PAIN D'ABRICOTS Marmalade stiffened with gela- 
 tine, set in a border mould, turned out and the 
 center rilled with whipped cream. DRIED APRICOTS 
 The best are bleached with sulphur fumes and 
 then dried in the sun. 
 
 AQUA PURA Druggists' latin for plain water. 
 AQUA VIT^E Druggists' latin for brandy. 
 AQUA AMMONIA Liquid ammonia; used for 
 taking out paint and grease spots. 
 
 AQUA FORTIS Nitric acid; used for testing 
 metal spoons, watches, plate. It eats into the base 
 metals, but does not injure gold or silver. 
 
 AQUARIUM A tank to keep live fish in. In 
 Canton and other Chinese cities, also in Moscow, 
 Vienna and other places, the restaurateurs have 
 these tanks so large and well-stocked as to excite 
 remarks from every traveler. The intention is that 
 the customer shall select his fish, have it caught in 
 a dip net and cooked for him while he waits; much 
 the same as our restaurants keep live quails in a 
 show case. 
 
 ARABIAN DISHBS See Oriental Cookery. 
 
 ARDENNES SALAD Shredded red cabbage 
 steeped in salt and water, then drained and placed 
 in the bowl, on top endive, sliced boiled potatoes, 
 celery, mustard, vinegar, pepper, and over all is 
 poured the hot fat and gravy from a pan of fried 
 ham. 
 
 ARLEQUIN ICES French spelling of Harle- 
 quin; ices of several colors mixed, like a harlequin's 
 dress, such as a brick of ice cream made of 3 or 4 
 layers. 
 
 ARLES SAUSAGES A kind formerly in fash- 
 ionable repute; not very different from the now 
 well-known Frankfurt; named for the town where 
 made. 
 
 ARMENIAN CABBAGE A LA MODE A 
 cabbage boiled about half done, taken up and 
 minced meat of any kind, well seasoned with pep- 
 per and onions, introduced between the leaves, 
 which are then tied around with twine; the stuffed 
 cabbage is then fried in butter, gravy made in the 
 pan and cabbage allowed to stew in ic. 
 
 AROMATS, AROMATICS Words often used 
 in cookery recipes to avoid repeated enumeration. 
 They signify the roots, herbs and apices commonly 
 used for seasoning or flavoring savory dishes, such 
 
 ART 
 
 as shallots or onions, garlic, sage, bav leaves, 
 thyme, celery, mace, cloves, etc. 
 
 AROMATIC SALT Also called spiced fall. It 
 is fine salt having the powdered herbs and spices 
 mixed with it, which are used by cooks, and saves 
 the trouble of getting each one of the ingredients 
 together as often as they arc needed. Spiced salt 
 contains pepper, mace, bay leaf, rosemary, sage, 
 thyme, celery seed, and perhaps other ingredients, 
 fpr cooks of different nationalities have various pre- 
 ferences in that respect. 
 
 ARROWROOT A pudding material like corn 
 starch, but has a more delicate flavor of its own. 
 Being a product of the West India islands, the 
 powers owning them have done much to stimulate 
 the trade in arrowroot from commercial motives, 
 and numerous recipes may be found in which ar- 
 rowroot is an ingredient, but corn starch takes its 
 place most completely, whether for puddings, cus- 
 tards, blanc mange, cakes, crackers, etc., and being 
 cheaper crowds it out of the market. In making 
 puddings, about one-third more of arrowroot is re- 
 quired to a certain measure of liquid than of starch, 
 and the price of arrowroot is much higher. It re- 
 mains the best material, however, for thickening 
 milk for ice cream, and is much used as a diet for 
 invalids. The name is in reference to arrowroot 
 being obtained from the root of the manioc, which 
 yields at the same time a poisonous sap into which 
 the native Indians dipped the points of their arrows. 
 This all washes out in water, while the pure arrow- 
 root sinks as sediment and is afterwards dried and 
 powdered. 
 
 ARTESIAN WELLS Holes are bored or drilled 
 to any depth' by either of two methods: A drill 
 with a wedge-shaped steel point is raised and let 
 fall by steam power, its own weight driving it down 
 while it is turned part way round at each drop to 
 make the bore round. At intervals of a few hours 
 an iron tube is let down to draw up the mud and 
 water. By the other method the drill is a short tube 
 with rough diamonds set in the lower edge, which 
 cut down into the rock while the drill is revolved 
 bv the machinery. This drill brings up a core from 
 the strata penetrated, and is most used for prospect- 
 ing. The largest bore so far has been 12 inches 
 in diameter and deepest about 3,000 feet. In low 
 lands water is often obtained that gushes up with 
 great force several feet above the surface; these are 
 called flowing wells. In most large or medium- 
 sized cities parties can be found who take contracts 
 for sinking wells where wanted. Artesian wells 
 get their name from Artesium, the ancient name of 
 Artois in France, where these methods began to be 
 used about 150 years ago. 
 
 ARTICHOKE There are two different vege- 
 tables called artichokes, and neither of them being 
 in general use with us there is a good deal of mys- 
 tification about the directions given for using them. 
 One, the artichoke straight, is a sort of thistle, the
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 241 
 
 ART 
 
 green immature flower, with a little eatable material 
 about the base; the other, the Jerusalem artichoke, 
 is the root of a small sort of sunflower; it is like a 
 misshapen potato. The directions given for cook- 
 ing one look foolish when applied to the other. 
 There are so many better vegetables that neither 
 kind of artichoke is much thought of; the Jerusalem 
 artichoke had its day before the potato came into 
 general use. It is claimed now that it contains 
 more nutriment than the potato, will grow any- 
 where and can remain in the ground all winter 
 without injury. This root artichoke grows wild in 
 the western prairie states. How the two dissimilar 
 vegetables came to be called by the same name no- 
 body now knows, but the term Jerusalem does not 
 mean what it purports to; it is a corruption oigira- 
 sola an Italian word meaning sunflower. Still 
 this mistaken name has led to a soup made of a 
 puree of Jerusalem artichokes like potato soup 
 being known everywhere as Palestine soup, in 
 reference to Jerusalem city being in Palestine. 
 
 This, the thistle or globe-artichoke, is cultivated 
 extensively for market over the water and to a small 
 extent in the United States. It is also dried and ex- 
 ported. When to be cooked, the dried artichoke is 
 steeped in water. It is the white part that is eatable; 
 the center, called the choke, is cut out when the 
 vegetable is half cooked, when it can be removed 
 easily. STUFFED ARTICHOKES The leaves and 
 bottoms pared off, choke removed, cavity filled with 
 stuffing, baked, served with a sauce or as a garnish 
 to a dish of meat. ARTICHOKES A LA BARIGOULE 
 The cavity filled with a fine herbs mince of mush- 
 rooms, parsley, shallots and minced pork in espa- 
 gnole thickened, baked with a slice of pork over each 
 stuffed artichoke, served without the pork, sauce 
 
 ASP 
 
 over. ARTICHOKES A LA LYONNAISE Trimmed 
 and pared down to the fleshy part, cut in quarters, 
 cored, parboiled, simmered tender in seasoned broth; 
 served with onion sauce, brown. ARTICHOKES AU 
 XATUREL A Parisian authority contends that the 
 only way to serve artichokes well is to steep them 
 in cold water 2 hours, boil I hour, eat by pulling off 
 each leaf with the fingers and dipping the eatable 
 base in melted butter. ARTICHAUTS A LA GOUFFE 
 Fried in batter, same as egg plant. ARTICHAUTS 
 FARCIES A I.'ITALIENNE Parboiled, insides re- 
 moved, stuffed with bread, onion and grated cheese, 
 cooked in little stock in a covered pan, served with 
 brown Italian sauce. ARTICHAUTS A L'ITALIENNE 
 Quartered, cooked in wine and stock, served with 
 white Italian sauce. ARTICHOKE SALAD (/)-The 
 bottoms chopped small, mixed with heart lettuce also 
 chopped ; seasoned with oil vinegar, pepper and salt. 
 (2)-Artichokes previously pared and quartered and 
 steeped in water, containing lemon juice, are eaten 
 as salad alone, with the usual seasonings. ARTI- 
 CHAUTS A LA HOLLANDAISE Plain boiled and 
 served with Hollandaise sauce to dip in. ARTI- 
 CHAUTS A LA BONNE FEMME The same served 
 with white sauce. ARTICHAUTS A L'BSSENCE DE 
 JAMBON Stuffed, braised and served, covered with 
 a puree of ham. ITALIAN GOBBO The growing 
 leaves of the globe artichoke are doubled back, tied 
 and covered with earth and white lumps form on 
 the stalks, which are called gobbo; this species of 
 salad is eaten raw with salt. ARTICHOKE, JERU- 
 SALEM The French name for it is Topinambcur, 
 the old name of potatoes. This tuber is apt 
 to turn dark in cooking as salsify does. To 
 prevent that it is thrown into water contain- 
 ing vinegar as soon as pared, and not allowed 
 to remain on the fire after it is done. A very gen- 
 eral use of it in the southern states where the plant 
 may be found growing in garden corners without 
 attention is as a pickle; it is put up the same way as 
 cucumbers, only scalded, not cooked soft. TOPIN- 
 AMBOURS A L'ITALIENNE Cut in shapes, stewed in 
 stock, served with sauce. TOPINAMBOURS AU 
 GRATIN Jerusalem artichokes boiled, mashed and 
 baked with grated cheese on top. TOPINAMBOURS 
 A LA SOYER Shaped like pears, boiled in water 
 with onions, butter and salt; served with butter 
 sauce poured over. ARTICHOKE FRITTERS Same 
 way as parsnip or salsify'fritters, by mashing, mix- 
 ing with egg and dropping spoonfuls in hot lard. 
 FRIED ARTICHOKES Done same way as fried egg 
 plant ARTICHOKE SOUP ("Palestine Soup") 
 Made with 12 ounces Jerusalem artichokes to each 
 quart of chicken stock; turnips, celery and leeks 
 added; all vegetables passed through a seive, and 
 cream and yolk of eggs added it is a cream puree 
 of artichokes. 
 
 ASPARAGUS Is eaten with the fingers when 
 cooked, whether hot or cold; for this reason aspar- 
 agus on toast is dished with the heads only in the 
 butter or sauce, the toast holding up the white ends
 
 242 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 ASP 
 
 dry. The largest on record were a hundred heads 
 {frown at Mortlake-on-the-Thames which weighed 
 42 pounds, the bunch. Another hundred presented 
 to George II in 1737 weighed 28 pounds. A tall 
 story has recently been in print of a traveler having 
 discovered a giant species of asparagus 12 inches 
 thick, growing wild in Russian Asia, of which one 
 head was enough for a party of six. The larger the 
 % head the poorer the flavor, however, and the me- 
 dium-sized green tinted is the best eating. It might 
 be grown in the garden of almost every hotel, as it 
 only needs planting once to come up in the same 
 spot for years. The shoots which escape cutting 
 grow to a beautiful plant with feathery foliage and 
 bright red berries, making a fine decorative plant 
 for ball rooms, banquet rooms, etc. Asparagus 
 possesses medicinal qualities similar to the water of 
 sulphur springs, which causes it to be adopted as a 
 diet in the canned state when it cannot be obtained 
 green. ASPARAGUS EN BRANCH E Is plain boiled 
 and served in bunches, full length. ASPARAGUS 
 PEAS Are the pointes d'asperges, the green heads 
 cut small and served in soups and sauces. CON- 
 SOMME AUX POINTES D'ASPERGES ET CEups 
 POCHES Is clear soup with asparagus heads and 
 poached eggs, same as a I'Imferalrice. Consomme 
 Printan'ere always has asparagus heads. ASPAR- 
 AGUS SOUP, PUREE OF ASPARAGUS, CREAM OF 
 ASPARAGUS are three kinds in which this vegetable 
 is the principal ingredient. ASPARAGUS A LA 
 CREME The green heads, boiled, in Bechamel 
 sauce. ASPARAGUS EN HOLLANDAISE Served on 
 toast with that sauce poured over the heads, instead 
 of au beurre, with butter, or an jus, with gravy. 
 ASPARAGUS EN MAYONAISE The heads cooked, 
 cut small, seasoned, and served cold as a salad with 
 dressing. ICED ASPARAGUS The heads dressed in 
 oil and vinegar, and frozen. ASPARAGUS OMELET 
 The green heads cooked and drained, mixed in an 
 omelet. STEWED ASPARAGUS HEADS The heads 
 partly fried (saute) in bacon fat, with chopped pars- 
 ley, chervil salt, pepper, and slight grating of nut- 
 meg, stock and gravy added, simmered, skimmed, 
 served on toast. CHOPPED ASPARAGUS A LA POM- 
 PADOUR Boiled green in salted water, the heads 
 cut off, of good length, placed on hot cloth near the 
 fire. Some hollandaise of butter yolks, salt, pepper, 
 little vinegar, cooked in a pan in boiling water till 
 just thickened, and poured over asparagus. AS- 
 PARAGUS WITH CREAM The heads cut small, 
 blanched in boiling water for 3 minutes, simmered 
 in a saucepan with butter, lump of sugar, an onion, 
 very little water; onion removed, cream added and 
 thickened slightly; served on toast. ASPAR\GUS 
 WITH EGGS Cold, served en branche or full length, 
 with olive oil and quarters of hard-boiled eggs. 
 ASPARAGUS STUFFING Chickens and pigeons are 
 filled with asparagus heads, seasoned, sewed up 
 and roasted over toasted bread. ASPARAGUS TO 
 BOIL The stalks, after being scraped and washed, 
 are tied in bunches and the butt ends cut off even, \ 
 
 ASP 
 
 to make them of one length. The water has salt in 
 it and a pinch of soda, and should be boiling when 
 the bunches are dropped in. The soda preserves 
 the green color if the lid is kept off the saucepan. 
 Takes about 20 minutes to cook. The very slender 
 and green stalks of asparagus are called sprue and 
 cooked like greens. DRIED ASPARAGUS Soyer 
 tells us that the Romans dried asparagus for use 
 in winter and restored it by soaking in water. 
 CANNED ASPARAGUS Is good except in the one re- 
 spect of the heads being generally broken. It 
 should not be taken out of the cans to cook, but the 
 cans opened at the butt, as shown by the label, set 
 on the range and the stalks served from the can. 
 ASPARAGUS CREAM A LA NOEL A French restau- 
 rant specialty; an entree formed in a mould and 
 turned out; made of asparagus and breast of chicken 
 in equal parts, chicken pounded and forced through 
 a seive and mixed with little veloute, asparagus 
 divided into green puree and white puree. Half 
 the chicken paste mixed with the green, other with 
 the white; green in buttered mould first, white to 
 fill. Steamed an hour without letting it reach boil- 
 ing heat; turned out and bordered with green as- 
 paragus prepared separately. The special mould 
 is in shape of a fine bunch of asparagns. 
 
 ASPIC JELLY Is meat jelly, such as is obtained 
 by boiling calves' feet or shanks or chickens down 
 to jelly, but to make it handsome, for ornamental 
 purposes, it is clarified with white of eggs and 
 strained through flannel, and, to save labor, it is 
 oftenest made of gelatine added to clear soup. If 
 the soup is already rich and strong, ij^ ounces 
 gelatine to each quart makes a jelly firm enough to 
 be handled and stamped into ornamental shapes. It 
 is necessary for the aspic jelly to contain white 
 wine and lemon juice as two of the ingredients, but 
 the remaining flavorings may be according to the 
 cook's taste and judgment, the intention being to 
 provide a jelly of a spicy taste tasting like a savory 
 game pie' or any meat pie, or like head cheese, but 
 clear as glass and finely colored with burnt sugar 
 or with saffron or cochineal. When made it is kept 
 in a jar on ice till wanted, or in thin sheets or dishes 
 to be cut in fancy shapes. 
 
 ASPIC MAYONNAISE Is aspic jelly and 
 mayonnaise mixed togehter, forming a shining 
 yellow jelly, not transparent. Is also made by stir- 
 ring mustard, etc., into aspic. 
 
 ASPICS Dishes of all savory sorts that are put 
 together with aspic jelly or aspic mayonnaise, such 
 as pieces of fish placed in order in a mould and fast- 
 ened there with aspic jelly, the mould being set on 
 ice and the interior filled with something solidified 
 by having melted jelly mixed in, or chicken, shrimps 
 or lobster on a flat dish with aspic cooled upon or 
 around them. ASPIC OF SOLES OR OTHER FISH 
 Fillets of solee rolled up cone-shape are steamed, 
 half of them placed point downwards in a mould, 
 melted pale aspic jelly poured in to just cover; set in
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 243 
 
 ASS 
 
 ice to become firm. Some jelly colored green poured 
 into the next tier of fillets point upwards on top of 
 the former when set solid. Yolks of hard-boiled 
 eggs rubbed through a seive, mixed in more jelly to 
 fill up mould when again set. Turned out on a lace 
 paper covered dish; highly ornamented. ASPIC OF 
 FILLETS OF TROUT A dozen fillets of fish with 
 butter and seasonings lightly baked in a covered 
 pan and then cooled with a light weight upon 
 them to flatten. When cold, cut out rounds about 
 size of silver dollar are placed in order in a mould 
 lined with a coating of aspic by turning it about 
 on ice and parsley, eggs, anchovies in strips, 
 and capers added in ornamental patterns, the inside 
 filled with more fillets mixed with mayonnaise jelly. 
 Aspics of poultry livers, ox-palates, quenelles, fillets 
 of game, chicken, turtle fins, plovers' eggs and al- 
 most anything can be made either in moulds or in 
 flat dishes surrounded with a green salad, or in a 
 border mould, the center to be filled with a salad 
 after it is turned out. ASPIC A LA CZARINA (Club 
 specialty) The meat of 3 grouse pounded in a mor- 
 tar, seasoned, passed through seive, mixed with a 
 pint of whipped cream, little aspic and chaudfroid 
 sauce. Set in a square shallow mould on ice. 
 Turned out, dressed with brown chaudfroid sauce, 
 decorated with truffles and aspic on a stand of rice, 
 and surrounded with green salad. 
 
 ASSAFCETIDA A mal -odorous gum which has 
 the taste and smell of garlic intensified. It is ob- 
 tained from a shrub. Is used in small quantities to 
 impart the garlic flavor to some bottled table sauces. 
 Among the accounts of ancient banquets we find 
 mention of kid dressed with assafoetida, and it has 
 been used as a seasoning in later times. One present 
 use of it is to carry about the person as a protection 
 against contagious diseases, such as yellow fever 
 It is reputed to have virtues in that respect similar 
 to camphor. 
 
 ASSES' FLESH The market statistics show 
 that 500 asses and mules were slaughtered and sold 
 in Paris last year, as well as 1,800 horses, for meat. 
 The asses' flesh sold at 2 cents a pound higher than 
 hotee-flesh. 
 
 ASSES' MILK Has had a run at various times 
 as a health food for children and consumptives. 
 There used to be milk-stands in the London parks 
 where the donkeys, sleek, curried and beautifully 
 kept, were milked to order for children and other 
 customers as they came. 
 
 ASSIETTE (Fr.) Dinner-plate. 
 
 ATELETS OR HATELETS Skewers, some of 
 silver with ornamental heads are for decorating 
 cold dishes, others for cooking "kebobs" on or any 
 meats ft la brochette. 
 
 ATTELET (Fr.) Bleak, a small fish. 
 
 ATTEREAU DE ROGNONS Brochette or 
 skewer of chicken kidneys, a French restaurant 
 specialty. Cook some "rognons de coq" in white 
 
 BAC 
 
 stock, allow them to cool in their liquor; drain; run 
 on silver skewers with cockscombs between. Cover 
 with chaudfroid sauce, then with beaten egg, bread 
 crumb them and fry. Served on the skewers, gar- 
 nished. 
 
 ATTEREAUX (Fr.) The ornaments cut out of 
 firm aspic jelly for bordering dishes. 
 
 AU, AUX To or with ; as beef au celeri or aux 
 oignons (onions); an is used when the accompanying 
 article is but one thing, and aux when it is many. 
 Au GRATIN With a brown or toasted surface. Au 
 Jus With gravy. Au -JAMBON With ham. Aux 
 CHAMPIGNONS With button mushrooms. 
 
 AUBERGE (Fr.) An inn. 
 
 AUBERGINE The egg-plant. 
 
 AURELIAN CAKE A rice sponge cake, of % 
 pound ground rice, % pound sugar, 12 eggs with 3 
 of the whites left out, brandy and flavoring. Made 
 like sponge cake. 
 
 AURORA SOUP Potage a I'Aurore, or soup 
 blushing like the morning; the fanciful name given 
 by a cook to a soup made orange-colored, with a 
 puree of carrots and further thickened with yolks of 
 eggs. 
 
 AURORA SAUCE Lobster butter made by 
 pounding lobster coral (the egg) and butter together, 
 mixed in white sauce. It is pink, and when lobster 
 coral cannot be obtained is colored to imitate it. 
 Lemon juice, salt and cayenne required in the sauce. 
 Served with fish. 
 
 A VENA Latin name of oats. ROLLED AVEN A 
 Crushed oats or oatmeal. 
 
 B. 
 
 BABA Polish cake in comnion use; a yeast- 
 raised, white sort of fruit cake, made of sugar, but- 
 ter and eggs, few raisins and almonds mixed with a 
 piece of light dough about equal in weight to all of 
 them, thoroughly beaten; let rise in moulds, and 
 baked. BABA AU RHUM The baba cake served 
 as pudding with hot syrup, containing rum, poured 
 over it. 
 
 BACON Needs to be timed in boiling to % hour 
 for each pound. BACON, BROILED Thin slices 
 broiled to a crisp over a charcoal fire. BACON WITH 
 EGGS The bacon on the dish first, and fried eggs 
 on top. BACON OMELET Lean bacon minced very 
 fine and lightly fried, the fat poured into another 
 pan, and omelet poured into that, cooked bacon 
 strewed all over the surface; when soft cooked, 
 rolled up, garnished with parsley in the dish. 
 STUFFED BACOX Cut thin, bujt slices left in pairs, 
 not quite separated; stuffed with mashed potatoes 
 and rolled in cracker dust or crumbs; fried. BACON 
 AND SPINACH Slices of boiled bacan laid upon i 
 bed of seasoned spinach. BACON AND FISH Broiled 
 or fried bacon is the best accompaniment to fried or 
 broiled trout, bass or other fresh -water fish. BACON
 
 244 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 BAC 
 
 AND BEEFSTEAK Broiled steak, with a slice or two 
 of broiled bacon on top, is esteemed a luxury. 
 BACON AND CABBAGE Boiled together and slices of 
 bacon served with cabbage. BACON AND GREEN 
 BEANS In some parts of the states string or snap 
 beans will hardly be eaten without bacon; it is boiled 
 along with them, and small pieces cut and served in 
 each dish sent in. BACON AND WHITE BEANS The 
 French cooks think it all right to boil navy beans 
 plain and serve them with a slice of bacon on each 
 order it is their substitute for baked pork and 
 beans, which they seldom cook. BACON WITH 
 CHICKEN Boiled chicken and turkey go well with 
 boiled bacon, but the unsmoked or very light smoked 
 is required the " bulk meat " or salt pork. BACON 
 IN CANVAS Is too dear for constant use, the weight 
 of the wrappings having to be paid for, and the qual- 
 ity of bacon is hidden; thin and unserviceable pieces 
 that trim half away are covered up in canvas, of 
 which the only use is to keep insects out of the meat 
 for those who keep it in stock. The most profitable 
 to buy is bacon by the box of 50 to 100 pounds, well 
 smoked, free from bone and not canvassed. The re- 
 moval of the bones from the rib sides will be found 
 to cause much waste of the meat at the same cutting 
 unless use can be found for such outside cuts. 
 BACON AND SAUERKRAUT Should go together. 
 
 BACKBONE Chine of pork; the American 
 bacon maker's cut, being the entire backbone of the 
 hog from the ears to the tail, the latter included, i 
 BACKBONE STEW Country luxury; the backbone \ 
 chopped in convenient pieces, stewed with an onion, I 
 potatoes, pinch of sage, salt, pepper, and flour to 
 thicken. BACKBONE POT PIE The stew in a wide 
 pan, spoonfuls of biscuit dough dropped in. BACK- 
 BONE PIE The stew in a baking pan, covered with 
 sheet of paste, and baked. BAKED BACKBONE 
 Chopped in convenient pieces, salt, pepper and 
 sprinkling of sage; baked brown. The bones being 
 exceedingly abundant in packing house localities 
 make a glut of pork food at certain seasons like the 
 gluts of fish in other places. Stuffed chine, broiled 
 bones with fried apples and apple sauce, bones with 
 Robert sauce, bones with onions, and in many of the 
 ways of regular pork cooking are then equally in 
 vogue. 
 
 BADGER Like a small bear; eaten by hunters 
 and trappers; tastes like wild boar. 
 
 BAG PUDDINGS The kind of puddings named 
 in the poem : " A bag pudding this king did make, 
 And stuffed it well with plums, And in he put great 
 lumps of fat As big as my two thumbs." Christmas 
 plum or egg batter or other kinds tied up in a bag 
 and boiled. 
 
 BAGRATION (a ta)A few preparations bear- 
 ing this designation, perhaps half a dozen, one-half 
 of them being^soups, were so named by CarSme in 
 compliment to a countess of Bagration of his time. 
 They are all comtinations of fish and vegetables. 
 
 BAHAMA SAUCE A fish sauce composed of 
 
 BAR 
 
 the liquor in which a fish is simmered with Bermuda 
 onion, Bahama chillies, wine, broth, parsley, etc. 
 
 BAIN-MAR1E-A double kettle of anykind, the 
 inr.cr vessel surrounded by water, like a farina-kettle 
 or glue -pot. 
 
 BAKING POWDER- Cream of tartar, 30 oz.; 
 bicarbonate of soda, 15 ox..; flour, 5 oz.: mixed. 
 " I chanced to pick up as my dinner companion one 
 of the officers of a leading baking-powder company. 
 Probably others will be surprised as was the lounger 
 to learn that their sales of the single article of bak- 
 ing powder reach $3,500,000 or more. At 35 cents 
 per pound this represents the distribution of 10,000, - 
 ooo pounds of powder. I managed to worm out of 
 
 i my friend that the company has a capital of $160,000. 
 Then I commenced to do a little figuring on my own 
 account. I happened to have in my note-book the 
 formula for a baking powder, viz. : 100 Ibs. cream 
 tartar, 38 Ibs. bicarbonate of soda, 7 Ibs. tartaric acid, 
 
 I and 20 Ibs. rice flour. Taking the latest current 
 quotations of these articles I figured out the cost 
 of a batch of baking powder, and, with thill as 
 a basis, we came to the conclusion that the company 
 must divide up somewhere from $600,000 to $Soo,ooo 
 a year. We no longer wonder why the stockholders 
 build rows of brown-stone fronts in Brooklyn. I 
 then wheeled around and asked my companion the 
 secret of the success of his company against many 
 rivals, when he replied : ' There are just two things 
 about it. First, we resolved to make the best baking 
 powder that could be made, and, second, to let the 
 people know it." We imagine that is the reason 
 why they advertise in over 5,000 different newspapers 
 and compel the grocers to keep their baking powder 
 in stock, whether they want to or not." 
 
 BAKING POWDER BRIOCHES Sweet buns 
 raised with powder instead of the customary yeast; 
 the bun is dipped in a wine-flavored syrup after 
 baking. 
 
 BAKED BEANS White haricot or navy beans, 
 steeped in water for several hours, are then baked 
 in a stone jar with salt, piece of salt pork and small 
 quantity of molasses; allowed to remain in the oven 
 S or 10 hours. Cooked in that way the dish is called 
 Boston baked beans to distinguish from another 
 way of cooking rapidly by boiling with soda in the 
 water, then seasoning and baking in a pan. 
 
 BAKEWELL PUDDING The Derbyshire 
 (Eng.) specialty, from the ducal residence of Chats- 
 worth, famed for having the highest fountain jet in 
 the worid. The pudding is an open deep pie, made 
 by spreading a layer of preserves on the bottom 
 crust of puff paste; apricot, peach or cherry pre- 
 serves are suitable; adding thin strips of candied 
 orange peel or citron, then making a rich "trans- 
 parent pie" mixture of butter, sugar, 6 jz. of each, 
 4 eggs, lemon -flavored brandy, and 2 oz. rlour, 
 spreading on top of the preserves and baking very 
 carefully, for it is easy to burn on top.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 245 
 
 BAL 
 
 BALL SUPPERS Ball suppers were most un- 
 satisfactory affairs until Ude, the French chef, hit 
 upon a plan of serving- a supper which should at 
 once satisfy the guest by the excellence of the re- 
 past and the novelty of the arrangement, and the 
 host by the smallness of the expense. This plan is 
 to ornament the sideboard with a basket of fruit, 
 instead of insignificant pieces of pastry. Place in 
 their stead things that cr.a be eaten such as 
 jelly, plates of mixed pastry, and sandwiches of a 
 superior kind, but not in too great profusion. Affix 
 a label to each plate, indicating its contents, and 
 you will find this arrangement will give the guests 
 an opportunity of taking refreshments without be- 
 ing obliged to seat themselves at a table from which 
 the ladies cannot rise without disordering their 
 dresses, which to them is a matter of far greater 
 moment than the best ball supper in the world. 
 
 BALL STAND-UP SUPPER Humorously 
 
 described by Theodore Hook as "tables against the 
 wall, covered with cold negus and warm ice; where 
 men, women and children take perpendicular re- 
 freshments, like so many horses with their noses in 
 the manger." 
 
 BALL SUPPER WASTE The waste of ball 
 suppers of old was almost incredible. Ude states 
 that he has known balls where the next day, in spite 
 of the pillage of a pack of footmen, he has seen 20 
 or 30 hams, 150 or 200 carved fowls, and 40 or 50 
 tongues given away; jellies melted on the tables; 
 pastry, pate's, pies and lobster salads, all heaped up 
 in the kitchen and strewed about the passages, 
 completely disfigured by the manner in which it 
 was necessary to take them from the dishes in which 
 they had been served. 
 
 BALLOTINES Ballotines are small galantines 
 made by treating small birds as directed, only that 
 the force-meat should have a larger proportion of 
 truffles, and be made of the same kind of bird; for 
 instance, grouse would have a rich force-meat of 
 grouse. One grouse, however, would make two 
 or four ballotines; quails make two, to be served as 
 individuals. (See galantines.) 
 
 BANANA Fruit of tropical and semi-tropical 
 countries and is the principal food of natives of 
 some West India islands. Exaggerated statements 
 of the amount of nutriment contained in bananas 
 have been circulated, shown to be fallacious by dry- 
 ing the fruit, which parts with % f > ts weight as 
 water. Remainder is like sweet dried pumpkin. 
 CANDIED BANANAS Dried bananas crystallized in 
 sugar before quite dried out. BAKED BANANAS 
 Breakfast dish; split, laid in pan with butter and 
 sugar over, baked to a state like candy. FRIED 
 BANANAS Either whole or cut across, dipped in 
 syrup, then rolled in flour and dropped into hot oil 
 or lard till crisp outside. BANANA FRITTERS Cut 
 in two across, steeped in rum or any liquor or wine 
 and sugar; drained, dipped in fritter batter and 
 fried; rolled in powdered sugar or served with a 
 
 BAR 
 
 sauce. BANANA PIE OR PUDDING Mashed, mixed 
 with sugar, lemon juice, butter and eggs, and baked 
 in a dish with bottom crust of paste. BANANA 
 COVERED PIE Sliced, sprinkled with lemon juice, 
 sugar, bits of butter, moistened with wine or 
 brandy, baked with bottom and top crust. BANANA 
 ICE CREAM Two bananas, pulped, to each quart 
 of cream. BANANA CANDIES Flavored with ex- 
 tract; also, in imitation of peeled bananas. BANANA 
 CAKE Two sheets of cake, sliced bananas dipped 
 in sweet wine laid between; banana-flavored yellow 
 icing on top. BANANAS FOR THE TABLE Among 
 the very best of fruit. They have the ends cut off, 
 are wiped with a cloth and placed on stands in their 
 skins. BANANA AMBROSIA Cut up with oranges, 
 cocoanut, wine and sugar. BANANA FRITTERS (a) 
 Mashed bananas i% Ibs., flour J^ lb., sugar 2 oz., 
 lard 2 oz., and i or 2 eggs. Dropped by spoofuls in 
 hot lard. Bananas baked are served up with baked 
 monkey in Brazil, like our oppossum \vith sweet 
 potatoes. 
 
 BANBURY CAKES A popular kind of turn- 
 over or puff, having a mince mixture inside of a 
 fold of puff short- paste. The mince is variously 
 compounded, either with crumbled slices of cake, 
 chopped apples, jam, candied peel, and spice, or 
 with butter and sugar stirred together, and raisins, 
 currants and peel added. Paste rolled thin, is cut 
 out with an oval cutter having scalloped edges, 
 mince placed in the middle, edges wetted ; another 
 paste on top, egged, top dipped in sugar and baked. 
 BANNOCKS Scottish; Cakes made of barley 
 or oatmeal, baked on an iron plate or girdle or 
 griddle. 
 
 BARM Scotch bakers' name for liquid yeast as 
 made by them. The ordinary "ferment." 
 
 BARATARIA SHRIMPS The name now so 
 widely diffused as a brand of canned .shrimps, has 
 reference to Barataria Bay in southern Louisiana, 
 once the rendezvous of the pirate Lafitte; locally 
 famous also for its large oysters. 
 
 BARMECIDE FEAST A great array of dishes, 
 but little or nothing on them. There is a story in 
 the Arabian Nights of a prince of the Barmecides 
 family who invited a number of people, his depend- 
 ents, to dinner. The table was set, each dish hav- 
 ing a cover over it, according to the old fashion. 
 When the signal was given the covers were raised 
 and showed the dishes absolutely empty. Never- 
 theless, the host went through the motions of help- 
 ing himself out of the various dishes and pretend- 
 ing to eat and get filled up, and the guests, being 
 his dependents and afraid of him, had to do the 
 same and pretended to have had a good dinner, 
 though they had not had a mouthful. The Barme- 
 cide prince had some motive in this which the story 
 tells, and from this story comes the allusions to 
 Barmecides and their banquets. 
 
 BARBUE (Fr.) -Brill, a fish. 
 
 BARTAVELLE Barnade bird; Scotch goose.
 
 246 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 BAS 
 
 BARLEY For cooking purposes is of two kinds 
 or more: Scotch and pearl barley; the latter is larger 
 grain and whiter; either kind answers for cooking; 
 both are cheap, costing less than rice and swelling 
 to a great bulk in boiling water. BARLEY BROTH 
 Mutton, barley, turnips, onions, or leeks, and water; 
 not thickened otherwise than with the barley. 
 BARLEY SOUP Meat stock and various vegetables 
 cut small, some barley well boiled separately and 
 added along with flour thickening. CREAM OF 
 BARLEY A rich white soup of chicken or veal, or 
 other white stock, with celery and mixed vegetables; 
 barley rubbed through a strainer, cream or milk and 
 little bntter and parsley. BARLEY WATER Gruel 
 for the sick, made by boiling barley in two waters 
 and straining off. BARLEY PUDDINGS (/)-Boiled 
 barley with butter and a custard mixture of eggs and 
 milk; baked. (2)-Boiled barley stirred up with mol- 
 asses and suet; baked. BARLEY BREAD Made of 
 a mixture of barley meal with flour. Scarcely known 
 in this country, but used in lands where there is no 
 cornmeal. BARLEY BANNOCKS Flat cakes of bar- 
 ley meal baked on a griddle; very thin. 
 
 BARLEY SUGAR Old-fashioned sort of clear 
 stick candy. No particular reason for the name, 
 but taste resembling barley malt. 
 
 BARNACLES A shell fish; like a mussel, but 
 only about an inch in length; said to be eaten by 
 the Chinese, Japanese, and others. Barnacles at- 
 tach themselves to floating logs and wooden piles, 
 and to the bottom of vessels. 
 
 BARSZEZ Polish beet soup. On the occasion 
 of a banquet given by Prince Czartoryski in Paris, 
 this soup figured on the menu, the recipe having 
 been sent from Cracow for the purpose. It was 
 made by filling a good sized jar with slices of raw 
 beets cut small, covering with water and placing a 
 slice of bread on top. Covered and let ferment, 
 which takes from 3 to 5 days. Skimmed and the 
 juice passed through a seive, then boiled with an 
 equal proportion of strong beef stock, to which was 
 added small pieces of ham. The soup went to table 
 looking clear and red. 
 
 BARBECUE See description at page 164. 
 
 BARBEL A fish of " the other side;" not very 
 highly valued. It is generally broiled. 
 
 BARBEAU or BARBILLON (Fr.) Barbel. 
 
 BARBE DE CAPUCIN (Fr.) Monk's beard; 
 name of a salad herb; chicory. 
 
 BARDS (Fr.) Slices of pork or bacon, which 
 are laid upon the breasts of grouse, etc., and 
 wrapped around small birds before cooking. 
 
 BARDES (Fr.) Barded or covered with slices 
 of fat bacon. 
 
 BASIL One of the standard "pot herbs;" it is 
 thought to be specially suitable for turtle soup; can 
 be grown in any kitchen garden like thyme, marjo- 
 ram, etc., and can be bought, dried and powdered, 
 in cans. 
 
 BAS 
 
 BAR (Fr.) Bass. BASSE also. 
 
 BASSE RAYEE (Fr.) Striped bass. 
 
 BASS There are half a dozen or more kinds: 
 Black bass, northern; black bass, southern; striped 
 bass, rock bass, channel bass, sea bass or red fish; 
 all regarded first-class for the table and for sport. 
 The southern black bass is a coarser looking fish 
 than that of the North; its scales are larger and it 
 is not so finely marked as its northern brother, nei- 
 ther is its flesh so firm and hard; but the meat is 
 very sweet and it does not have the strong grassy 
 taste that some of those found in western waters 
 have. It is the best fresh-water fish found in the 
 South, notwithstanding it seems to be one-third 
 head it is the large-mouthed variety. Northern 
 bass have the quality of keeping fresh longer than 
 other fish, and are safe kinds to buy and satisfactory 
 to serve, especially in restaurants where one or two 
 pound sizes are in demand. BROILED BASS WITH 
 BACON A favorite way of calling for bass. The 
 fish scored deeply on each side and broiled whole; 
 crisp-broiled bacon served on top of the fish and cut 
 lemons the only sauce. BROILED BASS -Split, 
 dipped in flour, broiled, basted with butter brush, 
 served with maitre d'hotel butter. BASS A LA 
 MAITRE D'HOTEL Broiled whole, butter worked 
 up with parsley and lemon juice spread over the 
 fish. BASS STEWED In shallow saucepan whole, 
 with onions, can tomatoes, little wine, espagnole 
 sauce, salt, pepper, parsley, stewed 40 minutes. 
 Sauce reduced and strained over. BASS A L'ETUVEE 
 Stewed bass. Cut up, white butter sauce mixed 
 with onions made and fish stewed in it; claret, nut- 
 meg, parsley, sauce and croutons. BASS IN MATE- 
 LOTE Matelote is a fish stew. This has cut-up fish 
 cooked in red wine stock, dipped out, sauce strained 
 and thickened, glazed small onions and mushrooms 
 added. STUFFED BLACK BASS, CRAYFISH SAUCE 
 Fish opened, stuffed, tied together, simmered in 
 wine stock in covered boiler. Gravy thickened 
 with flour and egg yolks and made pink with lob- 
 ster or crayfish butter; crayfish tails garnish. 
 STRIPED BASS A LA CONTE Whole, baked in oven 
 with oiled paper over and wine and broth in the 
 pan, oil, salt, pepper, shallots, parsley, sauce thick- 
 ened, espagnole added, strained over. FILLETS OF 
 STRIPED BASS A LA BORDEI.AISE Each fillet cut in 
 two, being 4 from each fish, steeped in oil and lemon 
 juice, drained and dusted with flour; dipped in egg 
 yolk mixed with warm butter and in bread crumbs, 
 and broiled. Sauce made of heads or bones boiled 
 down and tomato sauce added. FILLETS OF BASS 
 A LA MANHATTAN The flesh of the fish chopped 
 fine, made into flat croquettes and fried. Dished in 
 cirle, tomato sauce in center. FILLETS OF BASS EN 
 PAPILOTTE Small pieces well shaped partly fried 
 in butter; taken out, and thick pasty sauce made in 
 same butter of onions, mushrooms, wine, thick 
 veloute, parsley, yolks, poured over the fillets and 
 cooled. Each fillet on a sheet buttered note paper 
 with the sauce covering, paper doubled over and
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 247 
 
 BEA 
 
 edges pinched, baked brown; fine herb sauce. BAR 
 A L'EAU DE SEL Plain boiled in salt water. BAR 
 SAUCE AU BEURRE Broiled and served with butter 
 sauce. 
 
 BAT There is a kind called the edible bat; body 
 about 10 inches long, flesh white, tender, delicate; 
 eaten in the East Indies. 
 
 BATRACIAN Scientific name of the frog, and 
 used frequently as a synonym. 
 
 BATTER Thin mixture of flour with some 
 liquid; generally, to " make a batter " means flour 
 and water mixed smooth, then eggs, melted butter, 
 salt, sugar, etc., added. FRITTER BATTER Is thick 
 enough to coat over whatever is dipped in it. PAN- 
 CAKE BATTER Is about as thin as cream. 
 
 BATTER PUDDINGS About 5 oz. flour to 
 each quart of milk, 2 eggs, spoonful melted lard or 
 butter and same. of sugar makes a batter like thin 
 cream which sets solid when baked. BATTER PUD- 
 DING WITH APPLES Baked apples in quarters in a 
 pan, batter poured over and baked again. BATTER 
 PUDDING WITH RAISINS Same way without pre- 
 vious cooking of fruit. All batter puddings have 
 to be shallow in the pan. 
 
 BAVARIAN CREAM A more elaborate kind 
 of blanc-mange, made of whipped cream with % 
 oz. gelatine, dissolved, to each quart; variously 
 flavored and combined. (See Eavarois.) 
 
 BAVAROIS (Fr.y^-Bavarian cream. BAVAROIS 
 A LA PRASLIN Bavarian cream flavored with al- 
 mond nougat pounded to a paste for the purpose. 
 BAVAROIS AUX PISTACHES Green Bavarian made 
 with pounded pistachio nuts and almonds, colored 
 with spinach juice. BAVAROIS AUX FRUITS Bav- 
 arian served with compote fruit. BAVAROIS AUX 
 POMMES Puree of apples with whipped cream, set 
 with gelatine, flavored with maraschino. BAVAROIS 
 AUX POIRES With pears instead of apples. BAVA- 
 ROIS GLACE Frozen Bavarian. 
 
 BAY LEAF Used constantly, but in small 
 quantities for boiling in soups and sauces. It im- 
 parts a flavor like that of plum kernels; is the leaf of 
 a species of laurel; grows wild m parts of the South, 
 plentiful in Florida. Sold in a dry state at the drug 
 stores; cost very little. 
 
 BAY RUM Rum flavored with bay leaves. Is 
 one of the principal articles of manufacture and ex- 
 port of some of the West India islands. It is used 
 in various drinks, punches, etc., and as a toilet re- 
 quisite, particularly for the hair. Home-made bay 
 rum is prepared by procuring rum in its uncolored 
 state; to every gallon 100 bay leaves, freshly gath- 
 ered and bruised in a mortar, are added; steeped for 
 10 days with occasional agitation of the cask ; allowed 
 to settle, and drawn off. 
 
 BEANS The varieties are extremely numerous 
 in this country, the choice sorts being Lima beans 
 shelled green, white wax stringless beans and green 
 string beans of successive varieties from early to 
 
 BEA 
 
 late. The Lima bean does not grow in England ex- 
 cept as a climbing plant needing a hot and lengthy 
 season to .nature it. Kidney beans, French beans 
 and haricots rerts are our string or snap beans, the 
 kidney beans being the dwarf early kinds. French 
 or string beans are kept green while cooking by 
 being plunged into boiling water containing salt and 
 very little soda or borax; boiled with the lid off, 
 drained as soon as done and plunged in cold water 
 and kept till wanted to warm up in the various 
 sauces. They are nearly always shred lengthwise, 
 not snapped across. STRING BEANS A LA VERZ 
 Cooked in salted water, drained, put into a saucepan 
 with butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg; white sauce and 
 lemon juice. HARICOTS VERTS A L'ANGLAISE 
 String beans boiled, drained, shaken up with butter 
 and chopped parsley. HARICOTS VERTS SAUTES 
 Drained and simmered in butter, salt, pepper, 
 parsley. HARICOTS VERTS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL 
 Stewed string beans in white parsley sauce. HARI- 
 COTS VERTS AU BEURRE NOIR Butter browned by 
 frying, beans saute in it, salt, pepper, vinegar. 
 HARICOTS PANACHES A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL 
 String beans and white beans mixed in white pars- 
 ley sauce. HARICOTS BLANCS A LA MCELLE Are 
 navy beans seasoned with marrow. HARICOTS 
 .BLANCS AU BEURRE DE PIMENT Navy beans with 
 minced red pepper in butter. HARICOTS BLANCS AU 
 Jus Are served with gravy. HARICOTS ROUGES 
 
 A LA BOURGUIGNONNE Are red (shelled) beans, 
 
 cooked in meat stock with wine, herbs and onions. 
 CREAM DE HARICOTS VERTS Is soup made by 
 passing cooked string beans through a seive, adding 
 cream and soup stock. POTAGE A LA CONDE Is a 
 soup of white beans. STRING BEANS WITH BACON 
 The popular style, bacon cut dice mixed with the 
 beans. 
 
 BEAR MEAT Is eaten by nearly all people 
 where it can be obtained, although viewed with 
 prejudice by many who meet with it for the first 
 time. The meat is like pork, but darker; generally 
 it is very fat. When objectionable eating it is the 
 meat of an old animal. The "best is the flesh of the 
 bears which commit depredations in the cornfields 
 of sparsely settled regions, where they grow very 
 fat on corn and fruit. Young black and brown 
 bears are preferable for meat, though the grizzly 
 is eaten as well, but has a rank smell and flavor. 
 The butcher in any western town can sell such bear 
 meat as he may secure a third higher price than beef; 
 and in the cities as a curiosity it brings a high figure. 
 A bear weighing 450 Ibs. was cut up in a London 
 restaurant recently, and a trade journal says: "This 
 fine specimen of the ursine family having found its 
 way to the kitchen, the bill of fare duly announced 
 "jambon d'ours a la Litkuanienne and Pattes d'ours 
 (bear's paws) a la Muscovite. We dropped in for a 
 slice of roast bear ham, and found it decidedly 
 'gamey,' but by no means unpalatable, the flavor 
 somewhat resembling that of venison. Currant 
 jelly, by the way, would have been a fitting accom-
 
 248 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 EEC 
 
 paniment. "We have before us Christmas bills of 
 fare of the Gait House, Louisville, and Lindell Ho- 
 tel, St. Louis, and under the head of game we find 
 ' roast cub bear with chestnut'dressing ' and ' saddle 
 of Rocky Mountain bear with currant jelly '." 
 
 BEARD OF SHELLFISH The mussel has a 
 beard-like filament by which it hang's to the rocks, 
 and it must be removed after cooking before Ihe fish 
 is taken from the shell. The oyster has no such 
 beard, but when it is directed to beard oysters the 
 part intended is the gristle by which it adheres to 
 its shells. Some, however, will pull off the fringe: 
 which are the oyster's gills, for no good reason. 
 But the gristly part is really dry and tasteless, and 
 when choice patties, etc., are to be made, they are 
 the better if that part is removed. 
 
 BEARNAISE (a la) Dishes so entitled have 
 generally bearnaise sauce served with; otherwise it 
 means in Swiss .style. 
 
 BEARNAISE SAUCE Named from King 
 Henry " the Bearnaise " or his Swiss home. Made 
 of 4 tablespoons white wine vinegar, 2 spoons chop 
 ped shallots stewed in it, 2 spoons beef extract, 6 
 egg yolks; stirred over fire till begins to thicken, re- 
 moved to side and J Ib. butter added, little at a time, 
 with occasional drops of water; strained, and chop- 
 ped parsley, chervil, tarragon and red pepper added; 
 served with fillet steaks, chops and fish. It is bright 
 yellow, like butter, speckled with green. 
 
 BEATEN BISCUITS Specialty of Virginia 
 and adjoining states. A trade journal, remarking 
 upon the difficulty of striking anything new in the 
 biscuit line, says: "The widow of a well-known 
 Presbyterian divine has had a bright, original idea, 
 and is now making a tidy little fortune out of what 
 are called beaten biscuits. These biscuits are not 
 exactly novel; they are just such dainty cakes as the 
 lady, in more prosperous and happier times, was 
 accustomed to prepare with her own domestic appli- 
 ances and dignify with the appellation 'home-baked.' 
 The dough seems to have been 'beaten' or whipped 
 up till the biscuits turned out as white as snow, 
 with a delicious golden crust. Many of the wonder- 
 fully clever old negress cooks in Tennessee and Ken - 
 tucky houses, with their black but deft fingers, pre- 
 pared just such biscuits with a crispness, a color and 
 a flavor that fairly deserved the epithet 'divine.' Mrs. 
 Pratt's beaten biscuits are, however, now all the 
 rage in the latitude and longitude of Louisville." 
 These biscuits are in reality a hot cracker; the dough 
 has the same ingredients in it as ordinary soft bis- 
 cuits, but not so much powder, and needs must be 
 made up with milk. The special quality is attained 
 by pounding the lump of dough with a wooden 
 maul; a biscuit break would do the same. 
 
 BECASSES (Fr.) Woodcocks. 
 
 BECASSINES (Fr.) Snipes. 
 
 BECHAMEL The Marquis de Bechamel, the 
 rich financiere and great epicure, whose cream 
 
 EEC 
 
 sauce for turbot and cod has been extolled with 
 grandiloquence by a score historians of the table, 
 including De la Reyniere and Ude. The Marquis 
 was at one time mailre d'l.otelto one of the French 
 kings. 
 
 BECHAMEL SAUCE Cream sauce made with 
 seasoned chicken broth reduced to the richness of 
 jelly, with mushroom essence added, poured to the 
 usual white roux of butter and flour stirred together 
 over the fire, and an equal quantity cream added. 
 FOWLS IN BECHAMEL, and all meat dishes a la 
 Bechamel are simply served with cream sauce. 
 CODFISH AND TUKBOT A LA BECHAMEL Are in 
 flakes in sauce resembling our "picked-up fish in 
 cream." 
 
 BECHE DE MER The sea-slug or trepang or 
 sea cucumber; a kind of sea caterpillar of consider- 
 able importance to the Asiatics, who eat it and trade 
 in it dried. It is from 8 to 15 inches long and 
 
 abundant on the Florida reefs. At Key West an 
 enterprising yankee went into the business of mak- 
 ing trepang (dried beche de mer) a few years ago, 
 but he did not succeed in making it pay. (See Chi- 
 nese Cookery.) BECHE DE MER SOUP "With refer- 
 ence to that prime Celestial delicacy, the beche de 
 mer, or sea-slug, it may be of interest to describe 
 the method of making the soup as I have seen it 
 prepared by several good Chinese cooks. For, sav, 
 ten persons make soup in the ordinary way, of beef, 
 etc. Take two teat fish (sea-slugs) of good quality, 
 or a corresponding quantity of black or red fish, 
 soak in wat^r from 12 to 24 hours, thoroughly scrape 
 and clean from time to time, changing the water as 
 required, as it swells greatly. The result will be a 
 glutinous-looking mass, like lumps of jelly. Boil 
 separately for five or six hours; take out and cut or 
 mince up very fine. About a quarter of an hour be- 
 fore serving add this to the soup and let it boil. 
 There must not be any vegetables. Mince or egg 
 balls are a desirable addition, also sherry, etc., to 
 taste. This gives a body to the soup, which, if left 
 over, will be almost a jelly when cold. I believe if 
 the beche de mer were understood it would be used 
 all over the world, especially for invalids, as it is 
 very strengthening, and, although anything but 
 nice-looking in its dry state, it is a very- delicate 
 article of diet when properly treated. It makes a 
 splendid addition to beef tea, and I would call the 
 attention of medical men to this fact. In the form 
 of soup it is frequently used in the clubs and leading 
 hotels in Melbourne and Sydney." 
 BECFIGUE (Fr.); BECCAFICIO (It.) Fig-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 249 
 
 BEE 
 
 picker; a little bird closely resembling the American 
 rice bird, considered as great a luxury and is cooked 
 in the same way 
 
 BEEFSTEAK ORIGINATION Brother John 
 athan and John Bull have to thank Lucius Piaucus, 
 a Roman senator, who was commanded by the Em- 
 peror Trajan to act as one of the menial sacrificers 
 to Jupiter. In the process of flesh-roasting one of 
 the pieces fell off the altar, and in order to restore it 
 Piaucus burnt his ringers, thrust them into his 
 mouth, and whilst scorning the office he was set to 
 perform, made up for his coersion by devouring 
 every morsel; he thus deluded Trajan, defrauded 
 Jupiter, and invented the beefsteak. 
 
 BEEF The progress of the times, rapid transit, 
 large slaughtering and packing operations, whole- 
 sale methods of preserving meat both raw and 
 cooked, the utilization of every part for its best pur- 
 pose and the absence of the old methods and necess- 
 ities of pushing off parts of the carcass to get rid of 
 them, and also the higher development of the hotel 
 and restaurant systems, have all tended to make 
 changes in the methods of cutting up beef and less- 
 ened the significance of the names of joints and cuts 
 as they used to be. The fillet is now a separate cut 
 and can be bought of the packers by the hundred or 
 thousand pounds; the thin flank is not offered for 
 sale; the packers put it to good use as canned corn 
 beef. The summer hotel can have rib roasts, first 
 choice or second choice as ordered delivered from 
 the packing houses, all ready, with the bones re- 
 moved, the meat coiled up and bound around, skew- 
 ered, ready for putting in the oven, and not onlv 
 that, but can have them sent wrapped in paper and 
 in a frozen condition from a great distance. Loins 
 of beef, either short or long, either first choice meat 
 or seconds, can be bought close trimmed in the same 
 accommodating manner, divested of the kidney fat, 
 which the packers use profitably in the form of but- 
 terine, and without any surplus bones, for the pack- 
 ers dispose of some of them for various uses in the 
 art.-, and the rest for fertilizers. COTES DE BCEUF 
 A LA BROCHE Roast ribs of beef. ALOYAU A LA 
 BKOCHE Roast sirloin of beef. ALOYAU DE BCEUF 
 A I.A PROVENCALS Sirloin larded, spread with a 
 high-flavored stuffing of marrow, anchovies, garlic, 
 etc.; roasted and served with piquante sauce. 
 ALOYAU BRAISE A LA GODARD Top sirloin gar- 
 nished with slices of sweetbreads, mushrooms, 
 truffles, etc., in the reduced wine braise of the beef. 
 ALOYAU BRAISE A LA R"OYALE Top sirloin larded 
 and braised. A LA PRINTANIERE Served with 
 young vegetables. A LA PORTUGAISE With 
 glazed onions and sauce. FILET DE BCEUF AU Jus 
 D'ORAXGE The tenderloin served like duck with 
 orange sauce. FILET DE BCEUF A LA XAPOLITAINE 
 Larded, marinaded, braised, served with Xapoli- 
 taine sauce, of horse-radish, ham, wine, jelly and 
 brown gravy. FILET DE BCEUF A LA BOIIEMIENNE 
 Tenderloin larded, marinaded by steeping in oil 
 
 BEE 
 
 with vegetables and aromatics, braised or roasted, 
 served with fried potatoes, olives, pickled mush- 
 rooms and onions in poivrade sauce. ROUELLE DE 
 BCEUF AU FOUR Round of beef spiced and baked 
 with water and fat in a covered pot. Noix DE 
 BCEUF BRAISEE Chumps of beef braised. PIECE 
 DE B<EUF GARNIE A LA FLAMANDE Is salted brisket 
 boiled and served with Brussels sprouts. PIECE DE 
 BCEUF A LA ST. FLORENTIN Top sirloin rolled, 
 roasted, seived with Robert sauce. COTES DE BCEUF 
 BRAISEES A LA PUREE DE TOMATOES Beef with 
 tomato sauce. BCEUF HOLLANDAISE Is smoked 
 beef boiled. ROSBIF A L'ANGLAISE Roast beef 
 with Yorkshire pudding and horse-radish. PATE 
 DE BCEUF AUX POMMES DE TERRE A pie of minced 
 beef and mashed potatoes with a crust of mashed 
 potatoes. BIFTECK A LA FRANCAISE Broiled steak 
 with French fried potatoes. PORTERHOUSE OR FIL- 
 I.ET STEAK A LA BEARNAISE Steak broiled and 
 served with Bearnaise sauce over or around. TEN- 
 DERLOIN STEAK A L'HOTELIERE Steak fried in 
 butter, gravy made in the pan with cream sauce and 
 essence of beef. TENDERLOIN STEAK WITH OLIVES 
 Steak fried in oil, gravy made in the pan with espa- 
 gnole and wine; stoned olives added. TENDERLOIN 
 (OR FILLET) STEAK WITH MUSHROOMS Steak fried 
 in butter or beef fat, gravy made in the same pan of 
 espagnole with Madeira and mushrooms. TENDER- 
 LOIN (FILLET) STEAK A LA MIRABEAU Steak 
 broiled, basted with oil, Mirabeau sauce of garlic, 
 white sauce, parsley, lemon and beef extract. FILET 
 DE BCEUF A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL Tenderloin steak 
 with butter, mixed with chopped parsley, and lemon 
 juice spread over it; fried potatoes around. FILET 
 DE BCEUF A LA CHATEAUBRIAND Thick fillet steaks 
 with extracts of beef, butter, parsley and lemon for 
 sauce. FILET DE BCEUF A L'ITALIENNE Thin steaks 
 floured and fried brown, served in brown Italian 
 sauce. ESCALOPES DE BCEUF A LA REFORMS (club) 
 Thin tenderloin steaks, each one between two slices 
 of bacon, breaded, with chopped ham mixed with 
 the bread crumbs, and fried; served with reform 
 sauce of poivrade and harvey sauces, port wine and 
 currant jelly. ESCALOPES DE BCEUF A LA NEMOURS 
 Thin fillet steaks covered with forcemeat and slices 
 of ham, put together in pairs, breaded and fried; 
 served with white sauce. ESCALOPES DE FILET DE 
 BCEUF A L'OSTENDE Spread with thick white sauce 
 containing chopped oysters and onions, in pairs, 
 breaded and fried; brown sauce. GRENADINE DE 
 FILET DE BCEUF A LA FINANCIERS Thin tenderloin 
 steaks larded, cooked in mirepoix and served in the 
 sauce with financiere garnish. TOURNEDOS A LA 
 SAUCE POIVRADE Slices of cooked fillet dressed in 
 a crown alternately with fried slices of bread of the 
 same size; poivrade sauce in the center. ENTRE- 
 COTES DE BCEUF A LA BoRDELAiSE Thick rib steaks 
 broiled; bordelaise sauce and pieces of beef marrow. 
 BCEUF EN SAUCISSONS Very thin slices of beef 
 rolled up like sausages with forcemeat inside, baked 
 in a covered pan ; served with the sauce. Other cuts
 
 250 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 BEE 
 
 and different parts and ways of cooking may be 
 found under the proper letters. BEEF RISSOLES 
 Minced beef, either raw or cooked, or both mixed; 
 with sausage seasonings and fat, or crumb of bread 
 to make it cohesive, is rolled into sausage shapes 
 and then rolled up in a thin covering of pie paste, 
 egged over and baked. 
 
 BEEF SOUPS Several varieties having beef 
 for the stock or principal ingredient, or having dice- 
 cut beef in them. 
 
 BEEFSTEAK PUDDING A boiled meat pie. 
 The English make puddings of snipes, partridges, 
 and every kind of meat by lining a deep bowl or 
 mould with suet short paste, placing in the beef- 
 steak or birds with seasoning additions of mush- 
 rooms, onions, cayenne, salt, aromatics, sauce and 
 water; cover the top with a sheet of paste; tie a 
 cloth over and boil for 3 or 4 hours. 
 
 BEEFSTEAK PIE Similar to beefsteak pud- 
 ding, baked. SAUCISSON BEEFSTEAK PIE Specialty 
 of a London restaurant. Started like the French 
 baeuf en saucissons named above. Chopped cooked 
 game or other meat seasoned with aromatics, rolled 
 up in shavings of steak to size of corks; these placed 
 in layers in deep pie dish with mushrooms, onions, 
 etc., between. Mussel or oyster liquor for special 
 seasoning; gravy added, top crust and baked. 
 
 BEEF TEA Is made best of minced raw beef 
 in cold water set in a jar or other vessel surrounded 
 by boiling water, but never allowed to boil, which 
 would coagulate the albumen and make the liquor 
 less nutritious. Some physicians recommend a raw 
 beef tea, the beef scraped into cold water only. 
 Liebigs' extract of meat is beef tea in a concentrated 
 form, only needs diluting to be ready for use. 
 
 BEEF TEA JELLY Strong beef tea or extract, 
 of meat with 3 oz. of starch or 4 oz. of arrowroot 
 stirred in at boiling point; taken off the fire and 
 made cold. For invalids to change from beef tea. 
 
 BEEF A LA MODE Is not the same as the a 
 la mode beef of a former page. This, either larded 
 through with strips of fat bacon or has such strips 
 rolled up in it, is braised with herbs and wine and 
 cut in slices across the larding when done. There 
 are at least three or four styles of the dish, depend- 
 ing only upon what is served with it; as Allemande, 
 with raisin sauce; Anglaise, with vegetables; Fran- 
 caise, with a ragout of mushrooms and quenelles in 
 wine sauce. 
 
 BEEF, THE "BAROX" OF " In accordance 
 with the custom the Queen's table was furnished at 
 Christmas with a splendid 'baron' of beef, weigh- 
 ing about 300 Ibs., which was flanked on either side 
 by a boar's head and a woodcock pie. The huge 
 joint, as is customary, was roasted at Windsor 
 Castle and thence despatched to Osborne. By the 
 way, why the 'baron' of beef has so lordly a title is 
 not quite clear. As the joint consists of the beast's 
 two sirloins or 'Sir Loins," as some people spell 
 
 BEE 
 
 the word not cut asunder, the name may possibly 
 have been given on the principle that ore baron is 
 equal to two knights." 
 
 BEEF EATERS "Beef and mutton was the 
 diet that bred that hardy race of mortals who won 
 the fields of Cressy and Agincourt. I need not get 
 up so far as the history of Guy, Earl of Warwick, 
 who is well known to have eaten up a dun cow of 
 his own killing. The renowned king Arthur is 
 generally looked upon as the first who ever sat 
 down to a whole roasted ox, which was certainly 
 the best way to preserve the gravy; and it is further 
 added that he and his knights sat about it at his 
 round table, and usually consumed it to the very 
 bones before they would enter 'upon debate of 
 moment." 
 
 BEEFSTEAK, HO\V TO COOK It requires 
 courage in the light of our knowledge and almost 
 daily experience for one to assert that there is no 
 reason why every beefsteak that is put on the table 
 should not, so far as cooking is concerned, approach 
 the ideal steak. "Subscriber" writes from far 
 Louisiana to know how his cook may be instructed 
 to give him a good beefsteak. A member of my 
 own family has brought the cooking of this article 
 of food to what we consider perfection. The first 
 requirement is not so much a tender and juicy steak, 
 though this is always to be devoutly desired, but a 
 glowing bed of coals, a wire grid-iron a stout one, 
 with good -sized wires a double one, so that vou 
 can turn the steak without touching it The steak 
 should not be pounded; only in extreme cases, when 
 it is cut too thick and is "stringy." Attempt noth- 
 ing else when cooking the steak; have everything 
 else ready for the table; the potatoes and vegetables 
 all in their respective dishes in the warming closet 
 or oven, with the door left open a little way. From 
 ten minutes onward is needed to cook the steak. 
 The time must depend on the size, and you can eas- 
 ily tell by the color of the gravy which runs from 
 the steak, when gently pressed with a knife, as to 
 its condition. If the master of the house likes it 
 "rare done," when there is a suspicion of brown 
 gravy with the red, it will be safe to infer that it is 
 done enough for him ; if, as is generally the case, 
 the next stage is the favorite one, remove the steak 
 from the grid-iron the instant the gravy is wholly 
 of a light brown. Remove it to a hot platter, pepper 
 and salt to your taste, put on small lumps of butter, 
 and then for two brief moments cover it with a hot 
 plate, the two moments being sufficient to carry it to 
 the table. One absolutely essential factor in the pre- 
 paration of good beefsteak is that it must be served 
 at once. If "Subscriber" can impress it upon his 
 cook that she is not to let the steak stand and steam 
 while she is doing other things, he will be likely to- 
 receive his reward for so doing. If he can inspire 
 his cook with a desire to excel, if he can induce her 
 to believe that it is worth while to take pains, he 
 will do an even more important work than to pro- 
 duce a delicious steak. I often think that a good
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 251 
 
 BEE 
 
 cook must belong to one or two orders she must 
 be a Christian of great conscientiousness, or a per- 
 son of abundant culture, whose sole delight is to do 
 well and with thought whatever is undertaken. 
 THE SECRET OF GRILLING While busy at the grill, 
 showing everyone present how it is done to a turn, 
 the following query has often been put to the 
 writer: "Will you impart the secret how to grill? 
 for my cook is a very good cook, but she cannot 
 produce me a satisfactory chop or steak." Of 
 course, every cook in a private family does not pre- 
 fer the frying-pan to the grid-iron, because it is 
 more convenient. Oh no! I am not going to say 
 anything of the kind. Some of* my querists have 
 gone so far as to have an apparatus fitted up after 
 the fashion of the well-known type of the public 
 grill, but with no better result. What is to be done ? 
 I will tell you. The operation is perfection, for it 
 is simplicity itself, and simplicity is perfection. 
 "Turn, turn, turn away; that's it, boy" (for I was a 
 boy once); "you cannot turn them too often," so 
 said my tutor, old Tom Brown, the celebrated grill 
 manipulator of the then universally known Joe's 
 Chop House, of Finch Lane. It is impossible to 
 give any stated time for grilling anything; there is 
 but one method of judging when the articles are 
 properly cooked, that is, by bringing into play what 
 the illusionist finds indispensable, viz.: the sense of 
 touch. Strange as it may appear, these two arts go 
 readily hand in hand. Now, reader, all you have 
 to do is to practise. 
 
 BEER SOUP; BIER SUPPE (Ger.) (/)-A 
 traveler, who says he has often partaken of it in 
 country houses and at the beer houses in the cities, 
 and that it is eaten cold, at least in summer, describes 
 it as half beer, half water, with bread crumbs, cur- 
 rants and lemon peel stirred up in it. (2)- A hot 
 beer soup, called German, is the same as English ale 
 posset, being 2 qts. mild beer simmered with sugar 
 snd spices and poured upon 6 beaten eggs and J 
 pint cream; all whisked till frothy and poured upon 
 a slice of toast in a bowl. (j)-Bread and caraway 
 seeds boiled in mild beer and poured upon beaten 
 eggs; hot enough to thicken, but not to curdle 
 them. 
 
 BEIGNET (Fr.) Fritter. BEIGNETS SOUFFLES- 
 Fritters which puff up hollow; also called aigrettes; 
 they are a la vanille when flavored. BEIGNETS A LA 
 DOMINIQUE Savory; made of a delicate salpicon or 
 mince of chicken, with aromatic seasoning in flat- 
 tened balls, dipped in oil -and- wine fritter batter and 
 fried; served with chopped truffle and tongue in 
 glaze. BEIGNETS D'ABRICOTS A LA CHARTRES 
 Apricot fritters. BEIGNETS AUX FLEURS D'ORANGE- 
 Flavored with orange flower water. BEIGNETS EN 
 SURPRISE Apples partly hollowed, the stalks left 
 on, soaked in brandy, filled with apricot jam, dipped 
 in batter and fried. BEIGNETS AU MAIZENA Cus- 
 tard or cream fritters made with corn starch. 
 BEIGNETS A LA PORTUGAISE Rice croquettes with 
 marmalade in the center. BEIGNETS AUX CON- 
 
 BER 
 
 FITURES Fritters served with preserve. BEIGNETS 
 A L'ALLEMANDE Also called Bismarck's; a. spoon- 
 ful of jam between two thin flats of light dough; 
 allowed to rise, then fried. BEIGNETS A LA PRUS- 
 SIENNE Apple turnovers (winch see) fried instead 
 of baked. BEIGNETS DE FLEURS DE SUREAU 
 Fritters of sprigs of elder flowers. BEIGNETS 
 D'ORANGES Orange fritters. BEIGNETS DE CIN- 
 TRA Thin round .slices of cake soaked in cream, 
 flavored with brandy, floured and fried. BEIGNETS 
 A LA CREME Custard fritters; pieces of custard 
 made with flour or starch firm enough to cut when 
 cold, dipp3d in batter and fried. BEIGNETS AUX 
 CONFITURES Marmalade fritters; thin sandwiches 
 of cake and jam dipped in batter and fried. BEIGNETS 
 A LA CHANTILLY Cream cheese fritters, made of 
 sweet cream curd, flour, eggs, sugar and wine, drop- 
 ped by small spoonfuls in hot lard and fried. BEIG- 
 NETS D'ABRICOTS A L'EAU DE VIE Apricots and 
 brandied bread in batter. BEIGNETS DE PECHES A 
 LA ROYAL Peach fritters. BEIGNETS DE FRAISES 
 A LA DAUPHINE Strawberry fritters. 
 
 BENGAL CHUTNEY A sour-sweet-savory 
 jam, used as a relish with meat, game, etc. ; made of i 
 Ib. each tamarinds, sultana raisins, tomatoes, apples, 
 ginger, moist sugar; J Ib. red chillies; J Ib. each 
 garlic and onions; 4 qts. strong vinegar; rind and 
 juice 8 lemons; ingredients pulped or minced. 
 Kept a month in warm place to ferment; tied down 
 in small jars; served sometimes with curried fish. 
 (See Indian chutney .) 
 
 BERKELEY PUDDING (Fr.-Eng. specialty.) 
 A bread-suet pudding boiled in a mould; made of i 
 Ib. bread crumbs, i Ib. suet, i Ib. moist sugar, 4 eggs, 
 i glass ale, juice 2 lemons. Boiled 2 hours; served 
 with a sabayon sauce. 
 
 BEETS Best for table are the blood beets; sugar 
 beets, nearly white inside, are as good for serving 
 in sauce hot, not so good for ornamental purposes. 
 Favorite ways of using them : BEETS IN BUTTER 
 Young garden beets boiled quite tender in their 
 skins, peeled, sliced; salt and plain butter. BEETS 
 IN SAUCE Butter sauce with vinegar in it; little 
 sugar and salt. BEETS IN VINEGAR Cold blood - 
 beets sliced and covered with vinegar; called also 
 pickled beets. Will keep a week if cool. BETTE- 
 RAVES A LA CREME Cut up in dice in a white 
 sauce. BETTERAVES A LA POITEVINE Cut in slices 
 like sections of an orange; after boiling, served in 
 brown sauce with onions and spices. BETTEKAVES 
 A LA CHARTREUSE Yellow beets sliced after boil- 
 ing, a slice of onion between two slices of beets; 
 dipped in batter and fried. BEET SOUP (Seebarszez.) 
 BEETS JN SALADS (See salads.) Beets are largely 
 used for decorating dishes. 
 
 BERLINGOTS DE ROUEN (Fr.); BERLIN- 
 GOZZI (It.) Stick candy. 
 
 BERLIN PANCAKES (Ger.: Berlinen Pfan,i- 
 kuc/ien) Are known in this country as Bismarks ; 
 in France as Beignets a I'Altemaiide. They are
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 BET 
 
 rich yeast-raised doughnuts, having a spoonful of 
 preserve inside; are nearly round. Like all dough- 
 nuts they are fried in lard and rolled in sugar when 
 done. In Poland they have the same by the name of 
 
 P&utit. 
 
 BETTER AVE (Fr.)- Beetroot; beets. 
 
 BEUKRE (Fr.) Butter. BEURKE n'ANCiiois 
 Anchovy butter. BEURRE DE HOMARD Lobster 
 butter. 
 
 BIBIXCA DOSEE This is the name of a fam - 
 ous Portuguese pudding, well worthy of a trial by 
 way of variety. Scrape two cocoanuts finely; pour 
 boiling water thereon, sufficient to yield a breakfast- 
 cupful of strong infusion, after soaking for a quar- 
 ter of an hour, and set it aside. Prepare a syrup 
 from three-quarters of a pound of sugar; mix into 
 this half a pound of rice flour or rizine, finely sifted, 
 and the cocoanut infusion. Boil over a brisk fire 
 with constant stirring, until it thickens. Pour into 
 a buttered dish, and bake to a light-brown color. 
 Note There must be 3 pints of liquid to that amount 
 of rice flour. 
 
 BIGAR ADE Name of an orange. Orange sauce 
 for ducks, etc., made by cutting the rind of sour 
 oranges in fine shreds, parboiling, adding them and 
 the juice to brown sauce or gravy. 
 
 BIJOUTIER (Fr.) Name facetiously applied to 
 dealers who gather up cooked food from the clubs 
 and private houses for re-sale. The word legit- 
 imately means jeweler. The bijoutier pays so much 
 a month to the chefs, basing his calculations after a 
 week's trial, and sells the broken victuals in as- 
 sorted platefuls in the public market. 
 
 BIRD PEPPER The small chilies or capsicums 
 of which ground cayenne is made. 
 
 BIRDS' XEST SOUP The birds' nests from 
 which the far-famed soup is made are built by a 
 species of swallow which abound on the coast of 
 Java, Ceylon and Borneo, and practically consists of 
 a gelatinous substance obtained from marine plants. 
 The nests are boiled either in chicken broth or in 
 milk, with almonds. The result very much resem- 
 bles vermicelli soup, but is more costly. 
 
 BISCUITS Crackers in England and France are 
 called biscuits; in the United States they are a short- 
 ened kind of rolls or breakfast -bread, usually eaten 
 warm ; name from two words signifying twice baked, 
 i. e., dry. Made of flour all or any kind with bak- 
 ing powder, salt and shortening, or with flour, but- 
 termilk, salt and soda. Biscuits are the oldest form 
 of bread. At what time of man's history the light- 
 ening of dough by fermentation was first adopted no 
 one, of course, knows. It is, however, certain that 
 cakes made of nothing but meal and water, is much 
 older. Fragments of unfermented cakes were dis- 
 covered in the Swiss lake dwellings which belong 
 to the neolithic age an age dating back far beyond 
 the received age of the world. This is the earliest 
 instance of biscuits as yet discovered, for biscuits 
 are merely unfermented bread. 
 
 BLA 
 
 BISCUITS DE RHEIMS - French specialty- 
 eaten with champagne. It is a variation of lady fin- 
 gers or Xaples biscuits dried. Made by adding and 
 beating 4 eggs to 12 ounces sugar, making warm 
 while beating; then cool; 8oz. flour, I oz. arrowroot, 
 lemon rind for flavor; baked like finger sponge cakes; 
 dry in slow oven. 
 
 BISCUIT GLACE Has two meanings which 
 causes mistakes. (/)- Savoy or sponge cake iced or 
 glazed with sugar is a biscuit de saroie glace. (2)- 
 Ice cream of any kind in a mould; especially small 
 biscuits or cakes of ice cream in paper cases are 
 meant, as they were the original "cakes of ice" 
 biscuits places. 
 
 BISQUE A paste or puree. POTAGE BISQUE AU 
 Riz is fish soup with crayfish tails and rice. BISQUE 
 OF CRAYFISH Soup of rice and crayfish, in veal 
 broth; the crayfish partly fried with butter, onion, 
 carrots, salt pork; broth added, boiled an hour; tails 
 of crayfish saved, boiled rice and crayfish hulls 
 pounded through a strainer and added to the soup 
 with crayfish tails and parsley. This is the soup 
 which some humanitarians of northern France 
 moved against because the crayfish are thrown into 
 the hot fry alive. BISQUE OF LOBSTER Soup of 
 lobster and rice; first fried, then boiled and pounded 
 lobster meat and shell, with rice, passed through 
 seive, and soup thickened with it; finished wich but- 
 ter, sherry and squares of fried bread. BISQUE OF 
 CRABS Made same as bisque of lobster ; crabs boiled 
 first, cut up, fried with onions, celery, salt pork, 
 stock added; boiled an hour; rice boiled, and puree 
 of rice and crabs thickens soup; sherry, etc., tofinish. 
 BISQUE OF OYSTERS A white soup like cream 
 sauce, the oysters after boiling rubbed through a 
 seive, milk and cream with the broth and oyster 
 liquor, and butter roux to thicken; slight flavoring of 
 bay leaf and mace. BISQUE OF PLOVER A LA ROS- 
 SINI Plovers braised in port wine stock an hour, 
 the meat then pounded fine and passed through seive. 
 Semolina boiled in broth, also passed through seive, 
 and plover stock thickened with them. Served with 
 grisini bread. (See tfrisiui.) BISQUE OF PARTRIDGE 
 A LA DAUPHINE The meat of roast partridges, 
 chestnuts and white bread made into a puree with 
 broth and port wine. 
 
 BISQUE ICES Ice creams containing a paste, 
 not too finely strained of fruit, preserved ginger, 
 chestnuts, walnuts, almonds and the like are named 
 accordingly, as BISQUE OF PINEAPPLE, made by 
 adding to ice cream some pounded, preserved or 
 stewed pineapple. 
 
 BLACKBERRY Uses of: DRIED BLACK- 
 BERRIES One bushel of fruit makes 10 pounds 
 dried. BLACKBERRY PIES Great favorite in the 
 season. (/)-Made by heaping the berries raw in a 
 pie crust sugaring, and covering same as apple pies. 
 (a)-Berries and thin-sliced apples mixed together, 
 sugared, covered and baked slowly. (^-Black- 
 berries stewed, or taken from cans, and little sugar
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 253 
 
 BLA 
 
 added; baked with top crust, or in open pies, with 
 strips over. (^)-Pies, English style, in deep earthen- 
 ware dishes, a tea cup inverted in the dish; all 
 around filled with berries and sugar, short crust; the 
 cup draws in the juice and is found to be full when 
 lifted, and besides it holds up the center of the crust. 
 BLACKBERRY ROLY-POLY Short paste or biscuit 
 dough rolled thin, covered with berries or with 
 blackberry jam, rolled up in a cloth (like a huge bo- 
 logna), ends and middle secured, boiled an hour or 
 more; may be baked as well; served with butter and 
 sugar. BLACKBERRY SHORTCAKE Same as straw- 
 berry, raspberry, etc. BLACKBERRY MERINGUE 
 Ripe berries with sugar spread upon a thin sheet of 
 cake, meringue or frosting, same as for lemon pies, 
 spread upon the berries; baked a little; cut out in 
 squares. BLACKBERRY COBBLER Same as cherry, 
 peach, etc. BLACKBERRY DUMPLINGS Half a cup 
 of berries inclosed in paste, like apple dumplings. 
 BLACKBERRY PUDDING Berries mixed in bread 
 puddings, boiled or baked same as raisins are used. 
 BLACKBERRY BATTER PUDDINGS Batter thin in a 
 baking pan, like Yorkshire pudding; berries strewed 
 over the surface; baked. BLACKBERRY SYKUP AND 
 CoRDiAi.-{Sef drinks.) BLACKBERRY WINE-^AV^ 
 wines.) BLACKBERRIES AS TABLE FRUIT Washed 
 and drained, served in fruit saucers or glass dishes 
 with broken ice scattered over the top, ice only 
 placed at the time of serving. Powdered sugar 
 served separate. 
 
 BLACK-COCK Kind of grouse Scotch and 
 English not very highly esteemed for table; are 
 hung a long time to make them tender; roasted and 
 stewed with wine in the sauce. COQS DE BRUYERE 
 A LA ROYALE Black-cocks larded, braised, and 
 served with a white sauce and small rissoles of game. 
 Coos DE BRUYERE A LA ROB ROY Black-cock 
 stuffed, roasted with sprigs of heather and whisky, 
 and served with butter sauce. 
 
 BLACKFISH A black perch, esteemed as a pan 
 fish, fairly plentiful in the southern markets. Smaller 
 and blacker than the black bass; flesh is much like it. 
 
 BLACK STRAP A tipple of a mixture of ruin 
 and molasses; a souvenir of old colonial days and of 
 the hard cider campaign. 
 
 BLACK PUDDINGS (Bonding l\Toir)A. kind 
 of sausage of pig's blood mixed with dice-cut pieces 
 of pork fat, onions and sometimes a little cooked 
 barley or rice; all seasoned with aromatic salt, filled 
 into skins and boiled. They are eaten either cold or 
 split lengthwise, and broiled or fried. They are, or 
 used to be, universally eaten on Christmas Eve by 
 the French middle classes. The Flemish way is to 
 eat them with baked apples. Edmond About used 
 to tell of a good monk who once indulged in a ham 
 omelette on a Friday, when a thunder storm came 
 on, and he threw the uncanonical delicacy out of the 
 window, murmuring: "All this noise about an om- 
 elette! " And of another, being rebuked for eating 
 
 BLU 
 
 a black pudding on Good Friday, replied with: 
 " Why not? The pudding is deep mourning! " 
 
 BLANCHAILLES The French coined word for 
 that small minnow-like fish, the fairfous English 
 whitebait. 
 
 BLANCH To scald. It means to whiten, liter- 
 ally. To blanch almonds is to scald and peel them; 
 to blanch parsley, chives, shallots and herbs is to 
 plunge them a minute in boiling water that they may 
 not go into the sauce raw. 
 
 BLANC MANGE Literally white-food. Cream 
 or milk set with gelatine, an ounce to a quart, sweet- 
 ened and flavored. When quitecold it is solid enough 
 to be turned out of a mould and keep its shape on the 
 table. 
 
 BLANQUETTE A sort of general designation 
 for any dish of white meat having a white or creamy 
 sauce and no other special flavoring or character- 
 istic. There are blanquettes of veal, lamb, fowl 
 and quail, but not of beef or dark meats. BI,\NC 
 DE VOLAILLE AUX CONCOMBERS White meat of 
 fowl, with cream sauce and cucumbers. BLAN- 
 QUETTE D'AGNEAU Small round slices of lamb 
 and of ham or tongue, with white sauce, parsley; 
 served in a baked shape of rice or bordered with 
 fried crusts. BLANQUETTE DE Ris DE VEAU AUX 
 TRUFFES Sweetbreads cut in round slices, with 
 slices of truffles in cream-colored sauce, made of 
 broth, cream, butter and yolks of eggs. 
 
 BLOATERS Often called Yarmouth bloaters; 
 are smoked herrings, the town of Yarmouth having 
 a special fame for them. The largest herrings are 
 selected and mild-cured; not for long keeping. 
 Their fatness causes them to bloat or swell while in 
 the smoke, hence the name. 
 
 BLONDE Culinary term; white broth. Soup 
 liquor in which is no roasted or fried or dark-col- 
 ored meats, though it be well seasoned otherwise. 
 It is merely for use in rich cooking instead of hot 
 water. BLONDE DE VEAU -Veal broth. 
 
 BLUEBERRIES Also called huckleberries and 
 whort 'cherries; grow wild in the eastern and middle 
 states. Used in all ways the same as blackberries. 
 
 BLUE-FISH Is split open same style a.s macke- 
 rel down the back and broiled. BLUE- FISH, 
 WHITE WINE SAUCE Cooked in pan with buttered 
 paper over, pan containing white wine, broth, onion 
 and aromatics; thickened when fish is done with 
 flour-and-butter and egg yolks. BLUE-FISH, MATE- 
 LOTE SAUCE Similar to the preceding; matelote is 
 fish stew, and contains garlic, onions, mussels, an- 
 chovy essence, red pepper, lemon juice. FILLETS 
 OF BLUE-FISH A LA DUXELLES Boneless sides 
 spread with sauce, breaded and fried, served with 
 Duxelles sauce round in the dish. BLUE-FISH ir 
 SEASON From May till November. 
 
 BLUE POINT OYSTERS Small, but plump 
 
 oysters for serving raw; first so named from a par-
 
 254 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 BOA 
 
 ticular locality near New York; now bred and cul- 
 tivated to this requirement in various places. 
 
 BOA The late Mr. Frank Buckland recom- 
 mended boa-constrictor for its white and firm flesh, 
 "tasting something like veal;" but it is to be ob- 
 served that this enthusiastic naturalist's opinion 
 is founded only on the fact that he "once ate" a 
 sample. Possibly the extreme scarcity of boa-con 
 stricter flesh in the markets was the cause of his 
 subsequent abstinence. 
 
 BOAR'S HEAD There has been more ceremo- 
 niousness in the manner of serving the boar's head 
 in olden times than with anything else save the pea- 
 cock, and the survival of some old customs still 
 makes this a more important dish than it otherwise 
 would be. It was in accordance with a custom, 
 ancient even then, that king Henry II himself 
 served the boar's head to his son on the latter's 
 coronation; the procession was preceded by trump- 
 ets. The hog's head is boned, stuffed, boiled, 
 pressed in shape, the cloth bandage taken off and 
 the head is decorated fancifully, sometimes to imi- 
 tate life, with spun sugar for bristles, sometimes 
 made gay with colored jelly and flowers. 
 
 BOISSON The economic Norman usually di- 
 lutes cider with water, and it is then sold and 
 bought as boisson. Boisson means drink generally 
 elsewhere; in Normandy it has the meaning of di- 
 luted cider. 
 
 BOIVIN STEAK Entrecote boivin; restaurant 
 specialty. Steak broiled, sauce poured over made 
 of some spoonfuls of gravy simmered down with 
 leaves of tarragon, and crushed pepper, meat glaze 
 and butter roux added; strained. 
 
 BOMBE Ices in a mould; an outside coating of 
 one kind, filling of another. BOMBE AUX FRUITS 
 Mould lined with chocolate ice cream and center 
 filled with tutti-frutti. BOMBE A LA SOUVERAINE 
 Mould lined with white almond ice (milk of pounded 
 almonds), filled with tea ice cream. After filling 
 packed in ice. 
 
 BOMBAY TOAST Anchovy butter with equal 
 amount of raw yolks stirred over fire till scrambled, 
 spread on fried bread. 
 
 BONIFACE The term applied to landlords; 
 originates from a character in a play written by 
 George Farquhar in 1707. Will Boniface was the 
 landlord of the inn. The play had a great run and 
 the name . Boniface became a synonym for hotel - 
 keeper thereafter. 
 
 BOR 
 
 BONED MEATS The term means boneless. 
 Turkeys, chickens, pigs' heads, etc., have the bones 
 taken out before cooking and are called boned tur- 
 keys, etc. 
 
 BON Good. The French cooks' usual response 
 to an order, instead of the English " very well," or 
 the American "all right." 
 
 BONDINETTES OF GAME Minced game of 
 any kind, seasoned, mixed with small proportion of 
 bread crumbs, parsley; egg and broth beaten to- 
 gether to moisten the mince; baked in little paper 
 cases; served with green peas. 
 
 BONITO Southern sea fish of the Spanish mack- 
 erel family, sometimes found 3 or 4 feet in length; 
 its principal food is the flying fish of southern 
 waters. The flesh has a bluish tinge, and that of 
 the large ones is rather coarse, but firm, and makes 
 good and shapely steaks for broiling. BONITO A LA 
 PROVENCALE Boiled in broth with little flour, wine, 
 onion and parsley in it. Liquor strained, thickened; 
 capers added. 
 
 BON VIVANT(Fr.) Good-liver; high-liver; a 
 luxurious eater. 
 
 BORAGE A garden herb; balm. A leaf or two 
 at a time is used to top a punch or wine-cup. 
 
 BORAX AND BORACIC ACID A borax val- 
 ley was discovered in California, a dead valley, so- 
 called, or alkali tract, in which was no life; and this 
 proved to be a great, indeed an inexhaustible deposit 
 of borax, and a company was formed to work it. 
 The discoverer found the carcass of a horse there 
 which had died several months before and was still 
 like fresh meat, the boron, boracic acid, or whatever 
 the name of the principle might be, having preserved 
 it. It is said the various useful properties of borax 
 were known to the ancient Egyptians who used it in 
 embalming their dead. They have been well known 
 in recent times, but the material was too scarce to al - 
 low the knowledge to be of much use. BORACIC 
 MEAT PRESERVATION A new process of preserving 
 meat consists in injecting a solution of boracic acid 
 into the blood of an animal immediately after it has 
 been stunned, and before the heart has ceased to 
 beat, the whole operation, including the removal of 
 all the blood and chemical fluid from the body of the 
 animal, only biking a few minutes. A demonstration 
 of the effects of this process has been given at the 
 Adelphi Hotel, London. The joints cut from a 
 sheep, which had been hanging for more than 
 seven weeks at the House of the Society of Arts, 
 were cooked in various ways, and those present 
 agreed that the meat was equal to ordinary butchers' 
 meat. 
 
 BORATED FISH That is, fish preserved by the 
 boracic acid process, are being sent freely into our 
 markets by the Norwegian curers, and are found to 
 be without taint or sign of putrefaction, while the 
 flavor is by no means deteriorated. The Roosen 
 process of fish preservation by permeation of the
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 255 
 
 BOR 
 
 tissues by a boracic acid solution under pressure has 
 made considerable headway. Public tests of pack- 
 ages of fish which had been kept in this way for 
 from 2 to 3 weeks, and then cooked, resulted in an 
 entirely satisfactory manner, showing that the pre- 
 servative agent is most useful for keeping provisions 
 temporarily until they are required for use. BORAX 
 FOR COCKROACHES It having been published with 
 great positiveness that powdered borax would drive 
 away or destroy cockroaches, some correspondents 
 answered that they had not found it so successful. 
 An experimenter tells them that the borax is a sure 
 exterminator, but it is necessary to have it freshly 
 powdered. Says he: "I have the borax pulverized 
 with a glass roller and never use it as it is bought. 
 The roaches do not eat the borax, as many suppose. 
 The way it kills them is this: The fine powdered 
 borax adheres to the membrane of the feet, and the 
 attempt to dislodge it, by striking the feet behind, is 
 what kills them. The borax has to be very fine and 
 fresh. It can be best sown by hand in the places 
 which they frequent." BORAX FOR CABBAGE AND 
 ONION ODOR In answer to a correspondent asking 
 what would allay the smell from boiling green veg- 
 etables, a steward of a club replies that he has used 
 borax in the boiling water for years and that it 
 effectually kills the smell, retains the green color 
 better than soda, and is perfectly harmless. BORAX 
 IN SOAP It is a useful ingredient, and, where soap 
 is made in the hotel is worth learning the recipes for 
 using. Borax, if bought by the keg, is one of the 
 cheapest substances in store. 
 
 BORDELAISE COOKERY Bordeaux has 
 long been renowned as the headquarters of good 
 cheer. Paris may have boasted of a larger number 
 of first-class restaurants, but the best cooks have 
 come from Bordeaux and neighboring towns in 
 Gascony, and the district has for centuries been 
 known as the strong-hold of la haute cuisine bour- 
 geoise. The markets of Bordeaux itself are famed 
 for a goodly number of local delicacies. There the 
 gourmet can purchase that most succulent little fish, 
 the royan, which some epicures declare to be a twin 
 brother of the sardine, while others hold that it is a 
 cousin-german to a pilchard, and which is caught 
 only in autumn. Then there is the ceps, a kind of 
 mushroom which is cooked in oil; and Bordelaise 
 gourmets further rejoice in the little birds called 
 "muries," which resemble the Italian "beccafiche," 
 or fig- peckers. As for the ortolans, they are an im- 
 portation from Agen and the Pyrenees. Touching 
 the cookery of all these good things, some slight 
 amount of mystery attaches to the sauce called 
 "Bordelaise." The most learned authorities in cook- 
 ery hold that, properly speaking, there is no such 
 sauce as Bordelaise at all, and that what is so called 
 is only a variety of the " sauce Genevoise," and ob- 
 tained its conventional name on account of the Bor- 
 deaux wine which forms one of its principal ingre- 
 dients. The culinary doctors, however, differ as to 
 the hue of tiie wine used in making Bordelaise. In 
 
 BOU 
 
 Kettner's "Book of the Table " it is laid down that 
 Bordelaise should be made of a good brcwn sauce 
 Espagnole is the best boiled down with a tum- 
 blerful of red Bordeaux, with one or two shallots 
 chopped small, and with a clove of gallic wel' 
 crushed. Jules Gouffe's recipe for the same sauce 
 prescribes so much Spanish sauce boiled down with 
 white Bordeaux wine, either Sauterne or Grave, 
 which must be added chopped and blanched shallots 
 and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. To add prob- 
 lem to problem and mystery to mystery, there is a 
 weil-known dish called entrecote a la Bordelaise, 
 which ostensibly should be fillet steak with Borde- 
 laise sauce. It is nothing of the kind first, because, 
 strictly speaking, there is no such thing as Borde- 
 laise sauce, and, next, because the entrec6te in quest- 
 ion is only a rib-steak grilled in the ordinary way, 
 and served with a piece ef cold maitre d' hotel butter, 
 into which has been wrought some finely minced 
 shallot. It is possible, nevertheless, that entrec6tes 
 accommodated with cold maitre d' hotel butter were 
 popular in the cuisine bjurgeoise, or cookery of pri- 
 vate life, at Bordeaux, long before they found favor 
 in Paris. 
 
 BORDERS OF RICE, ETC. (See Boidure.) 
 BORDURE [<?] (Fr.) Dishes that are served up 
 by making on the platter a border of mashed potato, 
 rice, fine hominy, Jerusalem artichoke, or any such 
 material, and filling the inside with the meat pre- 
 pared for it, are often named as "Border of Rice," 
 or whatever it is, "garnished with " whatever 
 ragout or stewed meat. This making the border, 
 the leading feature is one of the unintelligible tech- 
 nicalities; it arose from the possibility of making the 
 border an ornamental object, a work of culinary art, 
 more to be thought of than the inside filling of meat. 
 BORDER MOULDS There are moulds to be pur- 
 chased of many fancy shapes, like crowns, tiaras, 
 etc., which are but borders to be filled with various 
 hot border material, as named above, to be turned 
 out like a cake after baking, but more particularly 
 are used to make borders of jelly, of fruits in jelly, 
 pains, cremes, and salads set with jelly, all to have a 
 hollow or well, to be filled with whipped cream, or 
 salad, after turning out. 
 
 BOUCHEE (Fr.) Mouthful. PETITES Bou- 
 CHEES Little mouthfuls. BOUCHEES AU SALPICON 
 Two rounds of puff paste, with some savory minced 
 meat between, and baked. BOUCHEES A LA REINE 
 Small patties of the vol-au-vent sort, with a spoon- 
 ful of minced chicken or other meat in sauce for the 
 filling. BOUCHEES A LA MOELLE Small patties 
 filled with marrow and a savory sauce of cream 
 shallots, chives, etc. 
 
 BOUDINS (Fr.) Puddings of meat. BOUDIN 
 NOIR Blood pudding or sausage. BOUDIN BLANC 
 White pudding or sausage of veal, bread, etc. 
 BOUDINS A LA RICHELIEU This kind of hot, white 
 pudding of chicken meat is thought to have done 
 more to immortalize the name of Richelieu than the
 
 256 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 BOU 
 
 capture of Mahon. First, it is a paste made of 
 breast of chicken, pounded and forced through a 
 seive, seasoned, and, with the addition of a pasty 
 sauce to make it like dough, it is made out like flat- 
 tened eggs in shape, and poached. Then made cold, 
 part of the inside removed, and the cavity filled with 
 a mixture of lightly fried onion, truffles and mush- 
 rooms with butter and gravy; then the orifice cov- 
 ered with the chicken paste, and the surface decor- 
 ated with truffles made to adhere with white of egg. 
 These may be made in advance of the meal. When 
 wanted, they are simmered in a little broth, not 
 enough to cover; made to shine with a little glaze 
 over the decorated surface, and dished up with a 
 ragout of glazed onions, small quenelles and truffles 
 around. BOUDINS DE LIEVRE A LA RICHELIEU 
 Hare cooked, the meat pounded to a paste with fat 
 bacon and aromatics; made into rolls, breaded and 
 broiled; served with truffle sauce. BOUDINS DE 
 LAPIN White puddings of rabbit; the meat pounded 
 through a seive with aromatics and fat bacon, made 
 into flattened balls, decorated on top, poached, 
 served with mushrooms or truffles in brown sauce. 
 BOUDIN DE VEAU A LA LEGUMIERE Veal force- 
 meat prepared as for rabbit boudins; a mould orna- 
 mentally lined with cut vegetables, the center filled 
 with the prepared veal; steamed, served with brown 
 sauce. 
 
 BOUILLI (Fr.) Boiled beef. 
 
 BOUILLON (Fr.) Beef broth; also the general 
 name for stock or soup liquor of any kind of meat. 
 
 BOUILLABAISSE The provencal fish -stew; is 
 not a very formidable dish to prepare. The cooks 
 of various hotels and restaurants in the southern 
 sea-coast towns of the United States make it two 
 or three times a week as a matter of routine, and 
 are not pinched to the requirement of any particular 
 sort of fish for it. The plentiful and almost bone- 
 less sed-fish (channel bass) is taken for the found- 
 ation and any others may be mixed in sparingly. 
 It is required to have, besides the cut-up fish, oil, 
 white wine, garlic, leeks or onions or both, saffron 
 or tomatoes, red pepper and herbs. The onions, 
 leeks and garlic finely minced are half fried in the 
 oil in a broad saucepan; the pieces of fish put in and 
 the frying continued wi^i a little gentle shaking 
 until the fish is set firm. Then the wine is poured 
 in, perhaps a little water or stock, the pepper, herbs, 
 salt and saffron, and the stewing goes on for an 
 hour without a lid. The liquor or gravy is required 
 to be like thick soup, is either boiled down or thick- 
 ened with roux, well skimmed, served like a stew, 
 fish and sauce together. The modern tomato is 
 supplanting the ancient saffron in dishes of this 
 class, and the Creole bouillabaisse made with to- 
 matoes is acceptable to everybody. The eminent 
 sample of the highest class of culinary literature 
 appended here will be found edifying reading. It 
 is from the leading journal in the catering trade: 
 
 "Bouillabaisse is a fish soup for which the Pro- 
 
 BOU 
 
 vencal fishing towns are famous, chiefly Marseilles. 
 Garlic is essential to it, as to nearly all the Proven- 
 cal cookery; but those who eschew garlic may still 
 obtain from it a good idea of how to concoct a sa- 
 vory fish soup. Thackeray's 'Ballad of Bouilla- 
 baisse' has given it a great name in England, but 
 most Englishmen find it disappointing. It is a <ox:p 
 to be mightily loved or to be abhorred. 
 
 'This Bouillabaisse a noble dish is 
 A sort of soup or broth or brew 
 Or hotch-potch of all sorts of fishes, 
 That Greenwich never could outdo; 
 Green herbs, red peppers, mussels, saffern, 
 Soles, onions, garlic, roach and dace; 
 All these you eat at Terra's tavern 
 In that one dish of Bouillabaisse.' 
 "Choose a variety of fish soles, red mullets, 
 dorys, whitings, flounders, perch avoiding the 
 oily sorts, as the herrjng and the eel. The ir 
 mentioned by Thackeray are a pleasant addition. 
 Reckon from half to three-quarters of a pound for 
 each person to be served. For every pound of fish 
 put a pint of water into a stewpan, a quarter of a 
 pint of white wine, and a tablespoonful of oil. 
 Then, supposing there are four or five persons to be 
 provided for, add two sliced onions, two cloves, 
 two bay leaves, two leeks (the white only, but 
 chopped), four cloves of garlic, a tablespoonful of 
 chopped parsley, a little orang^ or lemon zest, half 
 an ounce of chopped capsicums, a teaspoonful of 
 saffron (but many tastes crave a whole tablespoon- 
 ful), pepper and salt. Into this mix the fish, which 
 have been well trimmed as well as cut into pieces, 
 and boil them for half an hour. The Marseillaise 
 declare for rapid boiling on a brisk fire, pointing 
 out that the name 'Bouillabaisse' means Bouiilon- 
 abaiss^ that is, broth rapidly reduced by evapora- 
 tion. This rule, however, is not always followed. 
 When the soup is to be served, drain the fish and 
 put them on a dish apart, making, spite of Thack- 
 eray, a pretty good clearance of herbs and spices. 
 Strain the soup by itself into a tureen, with, it may 
 be, sippets of toast in it. It is more common, but 
 not so good, to serve soup and fish together. Kett- 
 ner's recipe for the famous Provencal fish stew (as 
 set forth above) differs materially from that adopted 
 at the Hotel du Louvre et de la Paix, Mar.-ci'les, 
 where bouillabaisse is unquestionably cooked to 
 perfection. We are able to give this recipe: 
 
 " 'RECETTE DE LA BOUILLABAISSE Poissons: 
 Rascasse, vives, tfiterase, rougcts, vercleau tache' 
 rouge, chapons, macquerau, merlan, anguille <\e 
 mer, langoustes (petites), cigale, galinette, St. 
 Pierre. N. B. Le poisson doitVHre lave et nt-ttoye 
 dans 1'eau de mer, 1'eau douce Itii enleve sa finesse 
 de gout. 
 
 " 'Composition: Huile fine, un peu de cognac, un 
 peu de vin blanc, poivre moulu de frais, sel, saffran, 
 oignon, bouquet garni, ail tres pen. X. B.-Bouquet 
 se compose de laurier, basilic, sauge, thym, fenouil, 
 persil. 
 
 " 'X. B.-Cuire viviment pendant sept minutes.' 
 "The rascasse, or tfiterase, is :i reddish fish like a
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 257 
 
 BOU 
 
 perch, with a similar spiny process on his back. 
 This is the prime fish of the bouillabaisse. Of the 
 remainder, the little red mullet of Marseilles, the 
 mackerel, and the whiting, are well known. The 
 galinette is the gurnard; the St. Pierre is our fam- 
 iliar friend, Mr. John Dory; and the langouste is the 
 sea crayfish commonly seen in London fishmongers' 
 shops. It is believed that in the Mediterranean the 
 -angouste is better than the lobster, which is rarely 
 in condition in these southern waters. The anauille 
 de mer is an eel caught among the rocks of the 
 Riviera, and the -uerdeau is altogether a remarkable 
 fish ; it is like a salt-water pike in the expression of 
 its face and the shape of its body. Its coloring is 
 curious. It is of a metallic greenish blue, not so 
 vivid as that of the fresh sardine, but very bright, 
 and divided like a map by orange lines, which sug- 
 gest a survival of a sometime mail-clad fish. Any 
 piece of alligator- skin will convey the exact idea of 
 the shape of these markings. The vive is the weaver 
 of English waters." 
 
 BOURIDE A LA MARSEILLAISE Fish 
 stewed in wine and water with garlic and other 
 aromatics; yellow sauce made of pounded garlic, 
 lemon juice and egg yolks; the boiling fish liquor 
 strained with it, cooked enough to thicken, but not 
 curdle; sauce poured over slices of bread, fish served 
 with it separately. 
 
 BOURGEOISE (a /a) In family style; indicating 
 that the dishes are of medium richness; not costly. 
 
 BRAIXS The brains of all domestic animals are 
 eaten and considered a luxury. The brains of ost- 
 riches and peacocks were among the rare and costly 
 delicacies at the famous banquets of the ancients. 
 Nearly all kinds obtained in our markets are by a 
 harmless fiction classed as calves' brains, they being 
 regarded the best, as they certainly are for a neat 
 and compact appearance after cooking in slices; but 
 any others do as well for the various chopped-up 
 forms. Tubs and barrels full of brains are sent out 
 by the pork packers; there are shops in some parts 
 of the city where the retailing of brains is a specialty; 
 they are put up in ten cents' portions in wooden 
 butter dishes and sold by hundreds daily. Ox brains 
 are equally plentiful certain seasons and are easily 
 obtainable at all times from the dealers in fancy 
 meats who advertise to supply hotels and restau- 
 lants. BROILED CALF'S BRAINS (/)-The brains are 
 parboiled, pressed slightly; when cold, sliced, sea- 
 soned, dipped in flour, broiled and buttered. (2)- 
 CALVES' BRAINS EN BROCHETTE Boiled brains in 
 small pieces of even size run upon skewers, sea- 
 soned, dipped in egg and cracker dust and cooked on 
 the gridiron. Must be previously boiled in salted 
 water and made cold. Served on the skewers if they 
 arc < f silver or plated. BRAIN CAKES Lambs' or 
 sheep's brains boiled first in milk, chopped, mixed 
 with bread crumbs, yolk of eggs, little cream, chop- 
 ped parsley, salt, pepper; made into flattened cakes, 
 breaded and fried; served on a napkin with fried 
 parsley. RABBITS' BRAINS In England the brain 
 
 BRA 
 
 of a rabbit is a tit-bit for a lady. SHEEP'S BRAINS, 
 PARSLEY SAUCE Laid in salted water to draw out 
 the blood ; then boiled about 20 minutes, butter sauce 
 with parsley poured over. SCRAMBLED BRAINS 
 AND EGGS Brains boiled 10 minutes, broken up 
 with raw eggs and scrambled in frying pan. BRAIN 
 PATTIES Scrambled brains with eggs, parsley and 
 lemon juice mixed in, soft cooked, filled into vol-au- 
 vent or patty cases of puff paste. SHEEP'S BRAINS 
 EN CAISSE The brains parboiled, cut in pieces, 
 filled into little paper cases, buttered, Bechamel sauce 
 over, and bread crumbs, and baked. CALVES' 
 BRAINS AU GRATIN Same as the last. CALVES' 
 BRAINS A LA PROVENJALE Cooked in stock with 
 wine, oil, parsley, garlic, onions, pepper, salt; dip- 
 ped out, sauce reduced to glaze strained over them. 
 CALVES' BRAINS A LA RAVIGOTE Boiled, cut in 
 slices and arranged in a circle with Ravigote sauce 
 in center. CROQUETTES OF BRAINS Brains chop 
 ped, made into sort of rich paste with butter, bread 
 crumbs, eggs and seasonings, made out in ball or 
 roll shapes when cold; breaded and fried. MARI- 
 NADE DE CERVELLES Brains soaked in vinegar, 
 pepper and salt, dipped in batter, and fried. BRAINS 
 AU BEURRE NOIR Boiled, pressed, split, dipped in 
 flour, fried in butter in a saute pan; butter turns 
 brown and frothy, and served with them; garnished 
 with peas, capers, or parsley, and lemon. BRAINS 
 FOR BREAKFAST The best way is scrambled with 
 eggs and served in deep dishes by spoonfuls to each 
 guest. (See Cervelles.) 
 
 BRAISING The method of cooking meat in a 
 closed pot with burning charcoal on top as well as 
 below. It is nearly imitated in a covered baking 
 pan in a closed oven. By braising, the meat is sub- 
 jected to the action of the steam, heated to an extra 
 degree by the fire -covered lid, and is thereby almost 
 dissolved while still enveloped in the flavors of the 
 herbs and seasonings in the pot itself. The French 
 call the covered pot a brasiere; charcoal is called 
 both braise and charbon de hois. The Mexicans call 
 their charcoal furnace a brasero. In English it is a 
 brazier. The South Kensington school of cookery 
 has adopted the English words, brazier, braze, braz- 
 ing and brazed, instead of braist, etc. Probably 
 that is as it ought to be. BRAISED OR BRAZED 
 MEATS^Are, theiefore, meats cooked by brazing, 
 with various styles in the adjuncts and sauces. 
 
 BRANDADE DE MORUE (Fr.) Brandade of 
 salt cod. The fish pulled or minced, mixed with 
 onions, garlic, saffron, oil, pepper, etc. Is a yellow 
 sort of hashed fish. 
 
 BRANDY SNAPS A dark-brown wafer cake, 
 containing molasses and no brandy. The dough is 
 placed in balls, but runs out thin in baking; the 
 cakes are shaped on a round stick to tubular shape 
 while cooling. 
 
 BRAWN English name for head cheese. Brawn 
 is a dish of great antiquity. In olden times it was 
 made from the flesh of large boars, which lived in a
 
 258 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 BRA 
 
 half-wild state, and when put to fatten were strap- 
 ped and belted tight round the carcass, in order to 
 make the flesh become dense and brawny. It came 
 to market in rolls two feet long by ten inches in 
 diameter, packed in wicker baskets. BRAWN- 
 SAUCE Sauce for head cheese, etc., specialty of 
 chefoi Queen's College, Oxford, made by mixing i 
 tablespoon mustard, J^ spoon moist sugar, 2 spoons 
 oil and 4 of vinegar. 
 
 BRAZIL NUTS Used for the table, but not 
 choice; they are rather too coarse, and being so large 
 and heavy are not profitable. But they are used in 
 candies, and may take the place of almonds in cakes, 
 blanc mange and ice cream. 
 
 BRAZILIAN BREAD A cake made with Brazil 
 nuts; J^ Ib. of the pounded nuts, 12 eggs, i Ib. sugar, 
 4 oz. wheat flour, 2 oz. rice flour. Baked in round 
 tins. 
 
 BREAM A fish often named in French and En- 
 glish menus. 
 
 BREAD BATTER CAKES Pancakes or grid- 
 dle cakes made with soaked bread crumbs and flour, 
 etc., as for flour cakes. 
 
 BREAD PUDDINGS- (/)-In cups, made of % 
 Ib. each bread crumbs, suet, sugar and little salt; 
 flavored with lemon rind and juice; baked; turned 
 out; served with sauce. (a)- Bread crumbs and 
 minced suet in a pan; sweetened, then custard, all it 
 will absorb; baked. (j)-Slices of bread and butter 
 in a pan, with currants, raisins, or any other fruit; 
 thin custard to fill up; baked. (#}-Cutup crumbs of 
 bread in dice, covered with boiling milk; butter 
 stirred in, and eggs; flavored, sweetened, boiled in 
 basin, tied down with a floured cloth. (J)~BREAD 
 AND RAISIN PUDDING Bread cut in dice, mixed 
 with raisins in buttered pan, and bits of butter all 
 through; raw custard poured in to cover bread; 
 baked. 
 
 BREAD PIE A LA NORMANDY A pie in a 
 deep dish, made of cabbage, bread, sausage meat, an 
 egg, salt and pepper amount of ingredients: the 
 white part only of one or two heads cabbage boiled 
 and minced, a large stale roll soaked and squeezed 
 dry, % Ib. sausage meat. Bottom and top crust 
 to pie. 
 
 BREAD SAUCE One pint of broth with an on- 
 ion boiled in it strained hot over i2oz. breadcrumbs; 
 boiled for 10 minutes; 3 tablespoons cream added; 
 salt, pepper. Served with roast fowls and par- 
 tridges. BREAD SAUCE, BROWN The surplus stuff- 
 ing of roast turkeys stirred up in the brown gravy, 
 passed through a fine strainer; well skimmed. 
 
 BREAD STUFFING Is made of soaked bread 
 squeezed dry, mixed with suet, lard, drippings, or 
 sausage fat; flavored with either sage or sage and 
 onions, or thyme and other sweet herbs; seasoned 
 with salt and pepper, and, if wanted rich, has raw 
 volks added. Used for stuffing fowls, rolled mutton 
 and veal, pork, ducks, rolled entrecotes, or steaks, 
 tomatoes, egg plants, cucumbers, etc. 
 
 RBO 
 
 BREMEN CHEESE-CAKES Almond paste, 
 12 oz.; sugar, 4 oz.; yolks of eggs, S; pounded to- 
 gether, filled in paste-lined patty pans, bit of butter 
 on top of each, and baked. 
 
 BRETONNE SAUCE Chopped onions fried in 
 butter; flour added, and broth, salt and pepper; 
 strained, and parsley added. A cold Bretonni- sauce 
 is made of horse-radish, mustard, sugar, salt and 
 vinegar stirred together. 
 
 BRIE CH'E.ES'E.Frotnageclebrie. The richest 
 of cheeses, flat and thin; each one is in a box bv it- 
 self. It usually turns soft, and runs more or less 
 with age, but is then esteemed the most. It is a 
 cream cheese and like the cream cheeses made at 
 some country dairies, but with better keeping qual- 
 ities. It is about the same price as Camembert. 
 
 BRILL A fish of the other side the Atlantic; it 
 is like a turbot, flat, and is cooked in the same ways. 
 BRILL A LA PARISIEXN-E Specialty. Is split on the 
 black side (back), drained and sponged dry. Laid in 
 a baking pan with minced onions and mushrooms, 
 salt and sufficiency of white wine, and baked. Com- 
 plicated garnish of oysters, truffles, fish quenelles, 
 tails of crawfish and mushrooms; cooked in wine, 
 liquors; all mingled with fish gravy and thickened 
 with egg yolks. Built up ornamentally for party. 
 BAKED BRILL (or other fish) Is soaked for 2 hours 
 in olive oil, seasoned with lemon juice, bay leaf, 
 salt, pepper, chives; breaded and baked; served with 
 puree of tomatoes. 
 
 BRIOCHE A yellow, rich, light kind of bread, 
 very slightly sweetened ; a sort of bun or rusk. Made 
 by taking light dough and adding butter, eggs and 
 little sugar and salt; letting rise again and making in 
 shapes ; letting rise again before baking. The bakers' 
 shops of different cities show this in various shapes; 
 one form is a ring or border of twist, glazed and 
 sugared on top. To save eggs, the yellow color is 
 given by colorings, and instances have occurred of 
 poisoning by chrome yellow used in this way. An- 
 nato and saffron are harmless colorings. 
 
 BRIGHTON ROCK CAKES Made to look 
 rough by pulling off the dough with a fork on to the 
 baking pan. Dough made of i^ Ibs. flour, y> Ib. 
 each sugar, butter, citron and currants, % oz. am- 
 monia dissolved in little milk. Worked together; 
 baked in pieces, size of walnuts. 
 
 BRITZELS OR BRETZELS These are the 
 hard, brittle bowknots of salted Bread eaten in 
 nearly all beer saloons on both sides the ocean, and 
 as popular now in France as in Germany where tlu-y 
 originated. Made of raised dough; thrown into 
 boiling lye when light, and afterwards baked. In- 
 gredients only flour, water, yeast and salt; dough 
 stiff us for crackers; well broke or kneaded. Boiling 
 Ive is y^. Ib. potash in 10 gls. water. Britzels thrown 
 in sink at first, then rise, and are skimmed out, 
 salted over, and baked. 
 
 BROAD BEANS A kind of l<ean (extensively
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 259 
 
 BRO 
 
 grown and used in England) which grows on a stalk 
 4 or 5 feet high, and is cultivated in rows like Indian 
 corn. The beans are produced in thumb-like pods; 
 are gathered green; boiled and served with parsley - 
 and-butter sauce. They are somewhat coarse and 
 do not figure as an adjunct in fine dishes. 
 
 BROCCOLI A green sort of cauliflower; cooked 
 like cabbage, or pickled. The importance of the 
 broccoli-growing industry is shown by the fact that 
 the acreage under cultivation in the Penzance dis- 
 trict is estimated at 1,000, each acre being supposed 
 to contain about 10,000 broccoli that is, for the dis- 
 trict, a rough total of 10,000,000 broccoli. 
 
 BROCHET (Fr.) Pike; a fish. 
 
 BROCHETTE (Fr.) A small spit; a skewer. 
 LIVER A LA BROCHETTE Is cut in small thin slices 
 and strung on a skewer with slices of bacon be- 
 tween, then broiled or fried. Oysters, kidneys, etc., 
 in similar fashion. 
 
 BROMA Cocoa or chocolate in powder. 
 
 BROWN BETTY An apple pudding. (See 
 apples. .) 
 
 BROWX BREAD May be of two or more 
 kinds. In this country by brown bread is usually 
 understood a mixture of cornmcal, rye, flour, gra- 
 ham, and, perhaps, white flour; salted, slightly 
 sweetened with molasses and raised either with 
 yeast or baking powder; either steamed or baked 
 for several hours. In England, the brown bread 
 served almost invariably with fish and oysters is 
 made of unbolted wheat flour; here called graham 
 bread. 
 
 BRUNOISE SOUP Clear soup with vegetables 
 and green peas. 
 
 BRUSSELS SPROUTS The small cabbages 
 which sprout from cabbage stalks after the heads 
 have been cut off. This vegetable belongs to all 
 dishes technically designated a la Flamande, or 
 Flemish style. The sprouts are very little known 
 in the United States, perhaps because the best way 
 of preserving cabbage through the winter has been 
 found to be pulling up roots and all and burying 
 upside down in banks of earth. If the stalks are 
 allowed to remain and continue growing with favor- 
 able weather, numerous small heads from the size 
 of olives to that of apples will form upon them, 
 those are Brussels sprouts. 
 
 BUBBLE AND SQUEAK An English stand- 
 ing dish. It is cold beef and cabbage fried together; 
 sliced beef with fat or drippings first in the pan, 
 then the cold cooked cabbage fried in the beef fat. 
 While this seems to have been the original homely 
 dish, and corned beef was considered better for the 
 purpose than fresh, various professional cooks and 
 writers have undertaken to improve it by adding 
 sauces or various vegetables, evidently without any 
 warrant for it, for the name itself is enough to indi- 
 cate that it is ;\ dish of poor, but honest origin and 
 not adapted to become high-toned. 
 
 BUN 
 
 BUCKWHEAT Kind of grain that makes a 
 gray flour like rye or poor wheat flour, and easily 
 adulterated. Can be made into biscuits; principally 
 used in making griddle cakes. BUCKWHEAT CAKES 
 This popular breakfast luxury it is popularly sup- 
 posed cannot be learned from printed recipes. It is 
 among the standing jokes of the clubs that their 
 chefs can never succeed in making buckwheat cakes 
 to perfection, and colored women cooks have to be 
 employed for that specialty. These women raise 
 the first batch of batter with yeast, then let it turn 
 sour by keeping some over from day to day, adding 
 more flour and correcting the sourness with soda. 
 Some syrup, salt and melted lard are added, and 
 thin cakes baked on a greased griddle. 
 
 BUFFALO Nearly extinct now, but a few vears 
 ago was as plentiful in the West as beef. The meat 
 has the appearance of beef, coarser grained, but 
 lacks the flavor; it tasts like elk. 
 
 BUFFALO-FISH This name is never seen in a 
 bill of fare, which is somewhat singular since tM 
 fish is eaten probably by tons daily down the entire 
 length of the Ohio and Mississippi and tributary 
 rivers; it divides the territory with the catfish. It is a 
 carp which goes by this name; it attains to a weight 
 of 20 pounds, but is commonly met with about half 
 that size. The Buffalo has a good, capacious mouth 
 and can take a bait as well as a catfish. There is, 
 however, another fish of similar appearance, with 
 large scales, called the sucker, which is not nearly 
 as good a fish ; its snout is elongated and mouth small ; 
 it is bony and watery when cooked. The Buffalo, 
 on the contrary, is excellent boiled whole or fried in 
 slices. A whole baked or barbecued Buffalo is a 
 favorite fish at the New Orleans lunch houses where 
 sea fish can be had just as well and as cheap. (See 
 carf.) 
 
 BULLOCKS' BLOOD BON-BONS At the 
 
 great London exhibition of 1851, M. Brochieri ex- 
 hibited and sold delicious candies, cakes, patties and 
 bon-bons of bullocks' blood, rivalling the famous 
 marrons glares of the confiseries of the Boulevards, 
 to show the food possibilities which lie in the prin- 
 cipal ingredient of the ancient black pudding. 
 
 BUISSON (Fr.) Bush. A buisson of lobsters 
 (de /towards) is a pyramid of red lobster on a green 
 bush. A buisson of shrimps (crerettes) a smaller 
 bush or pyramid of similar style. There are also 
 pieces no- named which are pyramid shapes of cold 
 butter stuck over with pealed shrimps or prawns, 
 interspersed with cress or parsley. 
 
 BUNS A bun is a sweet roll, raised with yeast 
 like ordinary bread, though there are at least a score 
 of different names, shapes and qualities, and quite a 
 number of people follow the Scotch fashion of call- 
 ing all sorts of soft rolls, French rolls, petits pains, 
 rusks or whatever else buns, whether sweet or not, 
 which tends to a confusion of names. However, as 
 said above, buns are sweet rolls not so rich as cakes, 
 and one of the best is the HOT CROSS BrN, specially
 
 260 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 BUR 
 
 made for Good Friday and eaten by some people for 
 the sake of keeping up an old custom, and by more 
 because the buns are good. A good bun can be made 
 by any person by taking light bread dough and 
 working into it some butter, sugar, spice or extracts, 
 raisins, currants and candied peel, and yolks of eggs. 
 The fruit is not always put in, and not essential, nor 
 need there be much of either of the other ingredients; 
 it is essential, however, to have good, lively, well- 
 raised dough. The buns are but balls of the sweet- j 
 ened dough set to rise, then baked and egged and 
 sugared over. If to be "cross buns," the cross is 
 made bv pushing down a knife nearly to the bottom 
 of each bun while it is rising, when about half light. 
 Other kinds of buns can be found described under 
 the proper letters. 
 
 BURR OAK CIDER Trade name for imitation 
 cider, made of 8 oz. tartaric acid, 22 Ibs. brown sugar . 
 in a barrel of water (about4Ogls.), and some baker's : 
 stock yeast, or strong hop yeast, to start a fermenta- 
 tion. It tastes sufficiently like cider to sell in some j 
 places in immense quantities, to the great profit of 
 the vendors. Is ready for use in 2 days after making 
 if moderately warm. 
 
 BURTA Mashed potatoes as served in India. 
 A large green pepper and six spring onions minced 
 very finely, the juice of a lemon squeezed over them 
 on a saucer. A dozen boiled potatoes mashed, and 
 the onions and pepper mixed in, with oil or butten 
 and salt. Made in shape; garnished with crayfish 
 and parsley. 
 
 BUTTER It is found that, no matter how fresh 
 butter may be or well made, if it is white it is not 
 satisfactory for table use. The color of butter is af- 
 fected by the feed of the cows, green grass and 
 clover making it yellow; consequently winter butter 
 is apt to be -white, but may be as good otherwise. 
 The most satisfactory for hotel use is creamery but- 
 ter; it is always alike, being colored artificially, 
 though probably less at some seasons than others. 
 Then it is made in immense quantities at once and is 
 uniform in quality. Certain brands of creamery are 
 always scarce because of the demand regardless of 
 price. 
 
 BUTTER IMITATIONS A number of patents 
 have been taken out for making artificial butter, or 
 imitations. The first was by a French chemist, 
 Hippolyte Mege, in 1870. He was employed on the 
 Imperial farm at Vincennes, and invented OLEO- 
 MARGARINE, which is based on the particular ob- 
 servation that cooked fat is granulated, therefore 
 hard and brittle; butter is not, and therefore butter 
 could be made out of beef fat, not cooked, but \vorked 
 at the ordinary temperature of the cow's body. That 
 is what oleomargarine is yet. The fat is made warm 
 in steam tanks, pressed by hydraulic pressure which 
 divides it into stearine, which remains in the sacks, 
 and butter oil, which is pressed out, and this is 
 churned either with milk for present use, the milk 
 improving the flavor, or with water if long keeping 
 
 BUT 
 
 is the object in view. There are various details, 
 such as the dividing the butter oil into fine particles 
 ready for the churning with milk, but in substance 
 that is all there is in oleomargarine. If cleanly made 
 it is as good as ordinary butter. The outcry against 
 it has been from the makers of real butter. The only 
 objection really sound was the selling a cheaply pro- 
 duced article at the high price of best butter by pass- 
 ing it off as butter; but that has been pretty effectually 
 stopped, and "margarine," as the name now is, goes 
 on its own merits, and the trade in it is constantly in- 
 creasing. BUTTERINE was different, being a mix- 
 ture of lard and butter; ostensibly, but extreme un- 
 certainty may well be supposed to exist in the com- 
 position of it when the following patents are consid- 
 dered. NUT OIL BUTTER A patent was Vaken out in 
 1876 for making artificial butter from oleine, marga- 
 rine from fruit and vegetable nuts, lactic acid and 
 loppered milk. "EDIBLE FAT," with chemicals; 
 patent 1877. Heating- suet at 140, with salt, saltpeter, 
 borax, boracic acid, salycilic acids, withdrawing the 
 separated fat and incorporating therewith a second 
 and smaller charge of the above chemicals, with the 
 addition of benzoic acid. Patent for PRESERVING 
 REAL BUTTER (iSSo) by incorporating with it meta- 
 phosphoric acid. OLEO-SOAP BUTTER Patent iSSi 
 for adding alkali to oleomargarine, "agitating the 
 mixture until partial saponification ensues, then add- 
 ing butyric acid." COTTON SEED BUTTER Patent 
 1882 for combination of beef-suet oil, cotton-seed oil, 
 beef-stearine and slippery elm bark. LARD AND 
 COTTON-OIL BUTTER -Patent 1882 for combination of 
 lard oil and cotton-seed oil, "deodorized and purified 
 bv slippery elm bark and beef stearine." COCOANUT 
 j AND COTTOX-OIL BUTTER Patent 1882 for combina- 
 ; tion of vegetable stearine from nut or cotton oil 
 pressed cold, with oleomargarine, and churning. 
 OLEO, LARD AND AQUA FORTIS BUTTER Patent 
 i 1882 for combination of oleomargarine and leaf lard, 
 i subjected to washing action in water, borax and 
 . nitric acid; then re- washed and churned. THE REAL 
 BUTTERINE Patent 1882 for artificial butter made 
 i by minutely dividing leaf lard, melting, covering, 
 I salting down for 3 days, mixing it with lukewarm 
 | buttermilk, clarified tallow and little pepsin; adding 
 1 half its weight of real butter, and -working in cold 
 | water. COTTON-OIL AND FLOUR-PASTE BUTTER 
 Called "Oleard." Patent 1882; "vegetable oil in 
 combination with cooked farinaceous flour," the oil 
 treated with a solution of caustic soda. MAKING 
 i Two POUNDS OUT OF OXE Patent 1886 for putting 
 '. into a churn 8 Ibs. butter, i gallon sweet milk, i oz. 
 liquid rennet, 25 grains (troy) of nitrate of potash, 
 ! i oz. sugar, % teaspoon of butter-coloring; churning 
 | all, and working. .(Vote-Milk and butter w arm 
 can be mingled by stirring together gradually; the 
 i additions specified are to make the combination hold 
 '' when cold. Notwithstanding the possibilities out- 
 lined in these patents, there is very little more than 
 a local practice of the methods. Oleomargarine is 
 the same as Mege invented in 1870, viz.: beef fat
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 261 
 
 BUT 
 
 melted or cooked at 150 degrees; the oil pressed out 
 and churned with milk. Butterine is a mixture of 
 the above with leaf lard salted, colored and churned, 
 the milk it is churned with giving the butter flavor. 
 State commissioners have reported favorably upon 
 the products of the large factories where fresh fat 
 from the slaughter-houses is of necessity the mate- 
 rial used. To DISTINGUISH BUTTERINE The fol- 
 lowing simple method has been suggested for ap- 
 proximately judging of the purity of a specimen of 
 butter: Melt the butter, and then coolit as rapidly 
 as possible by means of some ice-cylinder put into 
 it. Lard, which is a copious constituent of butterine, 
 will sink to the bottom, and any genuine butter 
 will rise, while there will be a distinctly visible zone 
 or line of contact between the two. BUTTER* TO 
 KEEP FRESH Washing in cold water till free from 
 buttermilk, salt and sugar added in equal quantities, 
 and packed in jars and kept cold it will keep fresh 
 for a year. A TEST FOR BUTTER There is a qual- 
 itative test for butter so simple that any housewife 
 can put it into successful practice. A clean piece of 
 white paper is smeared with the suspected butter. 
 The paper is then rolled up and set on fire. If the 
 butter is pure the smell of the burning paper is 
 rather pleasant; but the odor is distinctly tallow if 
 the "butter" is made up wholly or in part of animal 
 fats. 
 
 BUTTER -BALL DUCK A wild duck a little 
 larger than a teal; good quality; generally very fat; 
 suitable for broiling, and often takes the place of teal. 
 In season November, December, January and Feb- 
 ruary. 
 
 BUTTER BEANS Lima beans. 
 
 BUTTER-FISH Small fish, fried like small 
 trout or whitebait. 
 
 BUTTER PIE A bakery specialty; a flour and 
 butter custard made without eggs; baked in a crust. 
 
 BUTTER ROLLS A variety of French bread; 
 rolls with butter worked in the dough; made flat to 
 split, and butter spread inside. Served hot. 
 
 BUTTER SCOTCH Taffy, a brown kind of 
 candy; made by boiling moist sugar and butter to- 
 gether to the crack, and cooling in sheets in shallow 
 pans. Also a sweet cake sold at some shops. 
 
 BUTTERED APPLES Quartered apples baked 
 with butter and sugar; served on fried bread. 
 
 BUTTERED EGGS Eggs soft scrambled in a 
 saucepan, set in a pan of boiling water, with plenty 
 of butter. 
 
 BUTTER NUT Kind of walnut, longer in shape 
 and harder shell than the black walnut. Also the 
 souari nut of Demerara. 
 
 BUTTS OF BEEF One of the new cuts of the 
 packing houses; the buttock cut in two or three; 
 boneless, good for second-rate steaks, and lower in 
 price than choice loins. 
 
 CAB 
 
 C. 
 
 CABARET (Fr.) A wine shop. 
 
 CABBAGE Most ancient of vegetables used for 
 food and still popular; classed among the most nu- 
 tritious, containing nitrogen, the same as meat, 
 which causes its strong odor. ODOR OF BOILING 
 CABBAGE Three remedies which prevent the offen- 
 sive smell are: (/)-borax in the water, (2y-3. piece of 
 bread tied up in muslin and boiled with it, (^)-a 
 large lump of charcoal tied up and boiled with it. 
 BUBBLE AND SQUEAK Is a dish of fried cabbage 
 and beef. CABBAGE AU GRATIN Boiled cabbage 
 in layers with grated cheese and butter, pepper and 
 salt, with breadcrumbs or cracker dust on top; 
 baked. CABBAGE A LA MILANAISE Cooked cab- 
 bage in a dish, thin broiled ham on top, butter sauce 
 poured over, grated cheese for top crust, baked. 
 CABBAGE SPROUTS WITH EGGS The young sprouts 
 from cabbage stalks boiled; an omelet laid flat on 
 dipped toast and cabbage sprouts on top of omelet. 
 CABBAGE STEWED WITH BUTTER Young cabbage 
 quartered and blanched, cut small and fried in but- 
 ter, broth added, stewed down, little white sauce or 
 flour to finish. CABBAGE A I.A ST. DENIS Stuffed 
 with sausage meat, wrapped with slices of fat pork, 
 stewed with flavoring of sherry in broth, sauce 
 poured over cabbage when served. PAUPIETTES OF 
 CABBAGE A LA MILANAISE Cabbage leaves 
 blanched, sausage meat, parboiled rice shallots and 
 parsley mixed and rolled up three leaves thick; sim- 
 mered in saucepan close packed for an hour. CAB- 
 BAGE A LA NAVARRAISE Stewed in butter and 
 broth flavored with garlic, cloves, etc. CHOUX 
 FARCIS Stuffed with sausage meat, same as St. 
 Denis. CHOUX EN SURPRISE Cabbage stuffed with 
 chestnuts. CREAMED CABBAGE Boiled, drained, 
 stirred up in a saucepan with butter and cream. 
 CABBAGE A LA LILLOISE Fried cabbage, put in 
 raw; chopped, with onion and butter. BOILED- 
 CABBAGE AND BACON Quarters of summer cabbage 
 boiled green and drained, a slice of bacon on each. 
 CABBAGE A L'ALLEMANDE Boiled, drained, chop- 
 ped, boiled bacon cut in dice mixed with it and 
 little white sauce. BAKED CABBAGE Cooked cab- 
 bage minced, in layers with minced cold meat in a 
 dish lined with crumbs, and bacon on top; to be 
 turned out whole. RED CABBAGE WITH SAUSAGES 
 Stewed with broth and vinegar; boiled sausages 
 around in the dish. RED CABBAGE A LA FLAMANDE 
 Fried salt pork, shredded cabbage and sliced 
 apples together, broth and brandy added, and fin- 
 ished in covered pan in the oven. PICKLED CAB- 
 BAGE White is generally colored yellow with tur- 
 meric; red cabbage is usually preferred for pickling. 
 CABBAGE SALAD OR COLD SLAW (/) Plain white 
 solid cabbage shaved as fine as hay, seasoned with 
 salt, vinegar, 'etc. ; generally served with oysters. 
 (s)-Chopped cabbage and apples, salt, vinegar, 
 pepper and capers. HOT SLAW Shaved cabbage 
 in hot creamy sauce of vinegar, water, butter, eggs,
 
 262 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CAB 
 
 salt, sugar; scalded, not boiled. SAUERKRAUT 
 Shaved cabbage in layers in a barrel with salt be- 
 tween, pressed down and kept till it becomes sour. 
 CABBAGE SOUPS Consomme Paysanne contains 
 shred cabbage; and vegetable soup with a salt pork 
 or corned beef seasoning and large proportion of 
 cabbage. CABBAGE TO KEEP Burying in a bank 
 of earth, heads downwards and stalks and roots left 
 on, covered with a foot of earth, is found to be the 
 best way. CABBAGE AS A PANACEA Hippocrates 
 had a peculiar affection for cabbage. Should one 
 of his patients be seized with a violent colic, he at 
 once prescribed a dish of boiled cabbage with salt. 
 Erasistratus looked upon it as a sovereign remedy 
 against paralysis. Pythagoras and several other 
 learned philosophers wrote books in which they 
 celebrated the marvelous virtues of the cabbage. 
 
 CABILLAUD (Fr.) Codfish. 
 
 CABBAGE PALM or PALM CABBAGE 
 Edible young leaves and heart of a palm tree which 
 grows in Florida and southward. 
 
 CABINET PUDDING A mould or pan nearly 
 filled with slices of cake, wi h sultana raisins and 
 cut citron between the layers; a custard mixture of 
 ggs and milk poured over; baked. STEAMED CAB- 
 INET PUDDING A mould ornamentally lined with 
 raisins and citron and soft butter; filled with sponge 
 cake, macaroons and custard; steamed and turned 
 out whole. COLD CABINET PUDDING A charlotte 
 russe made with lady fingers and small macaroons 
 lining a mould, filled up with yellow custard con- 
 taining gelatine td set it. 
 
 CACTUS LEAVES CANDIED The thick, 
 fleshv leaves of a cactus, crystallized in sugar, forms 
 one of the articles of export from Mexico. 
 
 CACAO The cacao (pronounced ka-ka'-o) bean 
 is the fruit of the cacao tree, a native of Mexico, 
 but now cultivated in all tropical countries. It is a 
 small tree, from 16 to 18 feet high, and the seeds 
 are the parts used for food. They are contained in 
 a large-pointed oval pod, from 6 iri. to 10 in. long. 
 This pod contains much sweet and whitish pulp, 
 and from 50 to 100 seeds, or beans as they are usually 
 called. When dried and roasted, and separated 
 from the husk, the beans form cocoa; chocolate is 
 prepared by grinding the roasted beans with sugar 
 and flavoring essences and then pressing the paste 
 thus made into cakes. 
 
 CAERPHILLY CHEESE A special kind pro- 
 duced in Wales. 
 
 CAFE (Fr.) Coffee; also coffee house. CAFE AU 
 LAIT Boiled milk and coffee in equal parts, little 
 cream. CAFE NOIR Strongest black coffee, and 
 sugar to taste. CAFE GLORiA-Good bright breakfast 
 coffee and cognac, equal quantities, with sugar; this 
 can be set on fire with brandy on top. CAFE GRA- 
 XITO Frozen coffee well sweetened; no additions 
 but sugar, served semi-fluid in small cups. LIQUEUR 
 DE CAFE Strong, clear coffee, strong sugar syrup, 
 and spirit, equal parts. RATAFIA DE CAFE A 
 
 CAL 
 
 pound of ground coffee steeped ten days in a quart 
 of spirit, strained, added to a quart each of syrup 
 and water, flavored with spices and almonds. CAFE 
 A LA CREME FRAPPE Caje au lait set in ice till 
 half frozen; better when made with cream in the 
 coffee, instead of milk. SOUFFLE AU CAFE Frangi- 
 pane with white of eggs, flavored with coffee, baked 
 in souffle cases. SOUFFLE AU CAFE VIERGE. The 
 same with green coffee flavor. CREME DE CAFE 
 Coffee ice cream. 
 
 CAILLES (Fr.) Quails. 
 
 CAISSES (Fr.) Little cases of paper or wafer 
 paste, size of patty pans or tumb.ers and of 
 various shapes, for serving souffles and small meats, 
 also for ices, as biscuits glaces. 
 
 CAKES Various kinds may be found mentioned 
 under their respective letters. 
 
 C ALLIES Dealers' name for large deep-sea 
 oysters, set apart for cooking purposes; smaller 
 ones being better to serve raw. 
 
 CALIPASH The meat attached to the back or 
 upper shell of the turtle. 
 
 CALIPEE The meat attached to the belly or 
 lower shell of the turtle. In consequence of the 
 prominence given to turtle by its adoption at the 
 stupendous civic banquets in London as the leading 
 luxury for the past 150 years, a knowledge of the 
 parts and ways of cooking is essential to a gastro- 
 nomic education. (See turtle.) 
 
 CALF'S BRAINS See brains. 
 
 CALF'S EARS Are cooked separate from the 
 head in various ways. OREILLES DE VEAU FARCIS 
 Calf's ears first boiled tender, stuffed with any 
 savory stuffing of minced bacon, onions and bread, 
 or sausage meat and bread, or chicken stuffing, 
 breaded and fried. OREILLES DE VEAU EN MARI- 
 NADE Boiled tender, steeped in seasoned vinegar, 
 drained, dipped in batter and fried. OREILLES DE 
 VEAU AUX CHAMPIGNONS Calf's ears boiled ten- 
 ter, served in a brown sauce with mushrooms, and 
 yolks of eggs for garnish. CALF'S EARS STUFFED, 
 TOMATO SAUCE Simmered tender in stock with 
 vinegar, stuffed as above, breaded and fried, served 
 with tomato sauce, and parsley and lemons for gan, 
 nish. CALF'S EARS A LA LYONNAISE Cooked ears 
 cut in shreds; fried onions in gravy and the calf's 
 ears mixed in. CALF'S EARS A LA BECHAMEL 
 Ears cut off deeply, cere removed with round cutter, 
 boiled an hour in milk and water, stuffed with veal 
 forcemeat, tied, simmered in seasoned broth; taken 
 up, sauce strained and thickened, mushrooms and 
 parsley added. OREILLES DE VEAU A LA NAPOLI- 
 TAINE Stuffed with bread and cheese stuffing, with 
 butter and volks, breaded and fried. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD It is useless if skinned as many 
 country butchers send it in after, perhaps, repeated 
 requests. The head can be cleaned by scalding, 
 same as a pig, and scraping. A little lye, ashes or 
 soda in the water assists the operation. The head
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 263 
 
 CAL 
 
 after being scraped is singed, then beginning at the 
 throat the skin and meat is all taken off the bones 
 by close cutting under with the point of a knife, and 
 next the tongue taken out, the head split and brains 
 taken out. CALF'S HEAD BOILED Cooked in sea- 
 soned stock about an hour or more, taken up, pressed 
 between dishes; when cold cut to shapes and served 
 in various ways. CALF'S HEAD A LA POULETTE 
 Cream -colored sauce with mushrooms, calf's head 
 sliced in it, garnished. CALF'S HEAD A LA MENE- 
 HOULD Slices dipped in thick sauce (Duxelles), 
 then in cracker dust, then in egg and dust again, 
 and baked or fried. TETE DE VEAU EN MOULE 
 Calf's head minced, layers in a mould with minced 
 ham between, thick gravy to moisten, baked, turned 
 out whole; the mould is lined with bread crumbs 
 and butter. TETE DE VEAU A LA FINANCIER E 
 Square pieces or slices with fnanciere garnish of 
 mushrooms, wine, etc. CALF'S HEAD A L'ITALI- 
 EXNE Boiled, sliced, with Italian sauce poured 
 over. CALF'S HEAD A LA DESTILIERE Pieces in 
 center of dish, brain sliced on top, tongue cut in 
 dice, sliced gherkins, button mushrooms in espa- 
 gnole and wine sauce poured over. CALF'S HEAD 
 WITH EGGS Slices in mushroom sauce garnished 
 with an egg. round-fried like a fritter, in plenty of 
 oil or lard. CALF'S HEAD A LA TORTUE The cold 
 pressed head cut in squares, made hot in rich 
 gravy with little tomato sauce, wine, mushrooms, 
 forcemeat balls, hard egg yolks, olives, etc. CALF'S 
 HEAD SOUP A light-colored soup having chopped 
 green vegetables, seasoned with herbs, half-fried 
 onions, anchovy essence, the calf's head cut in dice 
 in it. MOCK TURTLE SOUP, CLEAR Brown con- 
 somme", with cubes of pressed calf's head, egg balls 
 and parsley. MOCK TURTLE LIEE, OR THICK 
 Brown, made with calf's head and finished same as 
 turtle soup. TURBAN DE TETE DE VEAU Pieces of 
 cooked and pressed calf's head, made hot in any 
 sauce or ragout, dished up in crown shape, perhaps 
 on a foundation of bread or rice (see illustration on 
 page 117), and the sauce poured over; the name is 
 according to the sauce. CALF'S HEAD CHEESE 
 Similar to pig's head cheese or brawn. 
 
 CALF'S FEET Are freed from bones after 
 cooking, cut up and fricasseed, white or brown; or 
 served with any of the well-known sauces, such as 
 tomato, hollandaise, parsley, piquante, caper, etc. 
 CALF'S FOOT SOUP A cream soup of boiled calves' 
 fef t, celery and other vegetables, cream, white wine 
 and raw yolks for final thickening. CALF'S FOOT 
 JELLY Nearly all wine and other table jellies and 
 creams for sweet dinner and ball supper dishes 
 were formerly made bv boiling down calves' feet to 
 a jelly, then sweetening, flavoring, clarifying and 
 filtering it. One foot makes one quart of jelly. A 
 shorter method is now to use the prepared gelatine. 
 Calves' feet enrich soup stocks, and are good for 
 making aspic jelly. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER See liver. 
 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS See sweetbreads. 
 
 CAN 
 
 CALF'S TAIL SOUP White soup; the tails in 
 short pieces stewed, vegetables, mushrooms, slice 
 of bacon, inch of lemon rind in the strained stock, 
 corn starch, milk, nutmeg, glass white wine, pieces 
 of calves' tails added last. 
 
 CAMEMBERT -One of the favorite cheeses for 
 recherche dinners; can be bought of the importing 
 grocers; is a flat-shaped, "salt-soft" cheese of only a 
 few pounds' weight; costs about double the price of 
 ordinary cheese. Where they are made Camemberts 
 are dried for a month in a carefully constructed room 
 with a peculiar system of ventilation. They are then 
 ripened for about the same length of time in a cur- 
 ing cellar, called a cave de perfection, where they are 
 watched and treated with the greatest care. The 
 formation of the white mould and the development 
 of the red spots on their surface are observed with 
 great anxiety, and every little cheese is turned or 
 left according to circumstances. 
 
 CANAPES Literally couches, sofas, but in cul- 
 inary language pieces of toast or bread with some- 
 thing spread upon them. CANAPES AUX ANCHOIS 
 Chopped anchovies and eggs on fried bread. CAN- 
 APES AU FROMAGE Cheese melted in the oven on 
 fried bread. CANAPES A LA PRINCE DE GALLE* 
 Mixture of anchovies, ham, truffles, gherkins, oil and 
 vinegar in small hollowed rolls, decorated with aspic 
 mayonnaise. CANAPES A LA WINDSOR Chicken, 
 ham, cheese, anchovies, butter, cayenne, salt, 
 pounded to a paste together, passed through a seive, 
 spread on fried bread, crumbs on top; baked a few 
 minutes. CANAPES OF SARDINES Strips of fried 
 bread spread with sardine butter made by pounding 
 sardines -with hard-boiled yolks and butter, mixed 
 with parsley, mustard, etc.; a boneless, half sardine 
 on each one; served hot. CANAPES OF SHRIMPS 
 Fried rounds of bread spread with thick shrimp 
 sauce and picked shrimps enough to cover the sauce. 
 CANAPES DE VOLAILLE Chicken canape's or sand- 
 wiches with buttered bread, shred lettuce, mayon- 
 naise sauce on the lettuce, breast of chicken and 
 fillets of anchovy next, and bread on top. 
 
 CANARY YELLOW Chrome yellow; poison- 
 ous coloring. Its use by bakers is forbidden by law. 
 
 CANARDS (Fr.) Ducks. 
 
 CANDIED YAMS The large, sweet potatoes 
 called yams are boiled, sliced, laid in a pan with 
 sugar, butter, very little water and nutmeg, and 
 slowly baked. Served hot for dinner with the veg- 
 etables. 
 
 CANDIED FRUITS (See crystalized fruits.) 
 
 CANETONS (Fr.) Ducks. Usually applied to 
 tame ducks. CANARD SAUVAGE Wild duck. 
 
 CANE SYRUP AND SUGAR Meaning the 
 product of the sugar cane; not sorghum, nor beet 
 sugar, nor glucose, nor maple. 
 
 CANDLE-FISH A long, eel-like fish of the ex- 
 treme north, eatable, oily; when dried is burned like 
 a candle.
 
 264 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CAN 
 
 CANNEBERGES (Fr.)-Cranberries. 
 CANNELONS (Fr.) Canes; fried rolls of puff 
 paste little larger than a finger, having a pith of 
 either minced meat or of jam inside. CANNELONS 
 BAKED Are brushed over with egg and water be- 
 fore baking. Afate-Fried cannslons are now usually 
 called rissoles. 
 
 CANNED MEATS Are robbed of their juices 
 when put up in the factories; the natural gravies are 
 taken to make meat extracts and canned soups, and 
 replaced with water in the canned meats. 
 
 CANNED GOODS There is the utmost need 
 for the hotel buyer to post himself early on the sub- 
 ject of canned goods. The margins are sometimes 
 as great in proportion to prices as in the case of 
 wines. Some merchants will make astonishingly 
 low prices for ordinary provisions and groceries if 
 the buyer will let them supply the canned goods at 
 list prices. This is because of the great variations 
 of quality of these goods and also the fluctuations in 
 prices dependent upon the fruit or vegetable harvest 
 being good, or otherwise. Goods which retail or- 
 dinarily at 20 cents a can may often be bought by 
 the case at 5 or 6 cents, and generally at looriz. 
 Among the fine goods there are grades according to 
 strength of syrup and selection of fruit. There are 
 peas which are only dried peas cooked and canned, 
 and others, the finest green June peas, better than if 
 fresh bought in market; but the inexperienced may 
 have to pay as much for one as the other. And the 
 hotel buyer should get everything in gallon cans 
 and kegs, as near as possible, not pay for loads of 
 small bottles, jars and labels. 
 
 CANNING There are two principal methods; 
 one is to fill the cans with raw goods, like the 
 French peas, with sufficient water and perhaps some 
 coloring agent to green them; solder them tight, and 
 throw them into a boiling kettle where they remain 
 for 3 or 4 hours. The other way is commonly known, 
 consisting in cooking the cans of vegetables and 
 fruit in steam closets, there being an aperture in the 
 top of each can which is closed up with solder after 
 the contents are cooked and while still hot. 
 
 CANTELOUPES The nutmeg melon. Plenti- 
 ful in summer and fall and used by the wagon load 
 in, our hotels; kept on ice, washed, dried, cut in 
 halves, broken ice strewed over; served a half to 
 each person, unless very large, when a quarter may 
 be enough. Eaten with salt and pepper. 
 
 CANTERBURY PUDDINGS Individual, in 
 cups. Very rich pound cake mixture of 2 oz. each 
 butter, sugar and flour, 2 eggs whipped light, lemon 
 rind to flavor; baked in buttered cups; wine or brandy 
 sauce. 
 
 CANTON GINGER Preserved ginger root, a 
 sort of candy; especially valuable in fruit ice-creams, 
 ginger-ice, tutti-frutti, choice small cakes, steamed 
 puddings and wherever citron is used. It has an 
 agreeable pungency. It comes principally from Chy- 
 
 CAN 
 
 loong's factory in Canton; costs here from 30 to-joc. 
 per pound. " Old Chyloong shows with pride how 
 the root is brought to him and put through all the 
 processes. It is scraped, soaked in water for five 
 days, picked with forks, boiled in water, soaked for 
 two days in rice-flour water, boiled again, soaked in 
 lime water, boiled some more and finally boiled with 
 its equal weight of brown sugar and put up in the 
 round ginger jars sacred to high art, young ladies 
 and the Dusantes mantlepiece. The dried ginger 
 goes through all these processes, and is then dried 
 in the sun. The mixed Cantonese preserves, con- 
 taining bits of citron, sugar-cane, melon rinds, cum- 
 quats and persimmons, are made at the same place, 
 and Chvloong is a purveyor as widely known to the 
 civilized world as Crosse & Blackwell, and no doubt 
 a millionaire." 
 
 CANTON BUNS Sweet cakes made of } Ib. 
 each butter and sugar, 2 eggs, J^ oz. ammonia, } 
 cup milk, i % Ibs. flour; in balls dipped in egg on top 
 and little rough lumps sugar and an almond; baked. 
 
 CANVAS-BACK DUCK "Mr. Dion Bouci- 
 cault recently sent Mr. Irving a present of American 
 dainties, which where served at some supper parties 
 which have been given in the beefsteak room at the 
 Lyceum after the performance. Mr. Irving's 
 opinion having been required, he cabled to the 
 doner: 'Our verdict is: perfect. Perfect terrapin, 
 the finest soup known. Canvas -back ducks 
 ethereal.' A celebrated novelist who visited the 
 States a few years ago, gave up all engagements in 
 order to dine with a gourmet twelve days running 
 on canvas-back ducks and champagne. It is 
 strange that the canvas-back duck can never be 
 caught alive. A prominent caterer of New York 
 has been trying for three years to execute a com- 
 mission of Lord Tarbets", second son of the Duke 
 of Sutherland, who sent over for two pairs of live 
 canvas-backs. There is a standing offer of $50 a 
 pair for them, but as yet no one has got it. It is 
 impossible to net them as you do other ducks; the 
 only chance is to wound one badly enough to cap- 
 ture him, but not severely enough to kill him. 
 Though many persons annually enjoy the sport of 
 shooting canvas-back ducks, the joy of Maryland 
 sportsmen and the pride of Baltimore epicures, few 
 have probably thought of the summer homes of the 
 ducks, where the vacancies in their number, caused 
 by the industry of winter fowlers, are filled by 
 young birds. The ducks are found along the At- 
 lantic coast as far north as Canada, but they migrate 
 in the greatest numbers in the fall to the Chesa- 
 peake Bay and its tributaries, where they find their 
 favorite food, the Taluneiia, or wild celery, a fresh- 
 water plant, whose roots they feed upon, and which 
 gives them the juiciness and peculiar flavor which 
 distinguishes them from other ducks and atones for 
 their comparative lack of bright plumage. They 
 follow winter down the Atlantic coast, and remain 
 in the Chesapeake waters during the winter 
 months. When the spring opening occurs, they
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 265 
 
 CAN 
 
 wing their way across the country in a north-west- 
 ward direction, and spend the summer months 
 breeding and raising their young in the neighbor- 
 hood of the cool waters of the upper Rocky Moun- 
 tain system, and in all the far countries north of the 
 fiftieth degree, north latitude. There alone can 
 their eggs be obtained. A well-known restaurateur 
 of this city conceived the idea of raising canvas- 
 back ducks in Baltimore. He procured two crippled 
 birds a male and female but his experiments 
 were xmsuccessful, as the birds pined for the cool 
 air of the British American forests. The canvas- 
 back duck is the royalty of ducks. No other ap- 
 proaches him within the circumference of the earth. 
 His delicacy of flavor and his rare and melting juic- 
 iness are attributable to his delicate feeding, which 
 is wholly on wild celery. This duck must be roasted 
 at a rapid fire; brownly almost blackly crisp, and 
 served without one gout of sauce or flavor, and with 
 no condiment save a modicum of salt and some 
 sticks of white crisp celery. It is a kind of barbar- 
 ism to disguise in wine or jelly the melting natural 
 richness of this bird; and if properly cooked, his 
 own crimson gravy will be abundant and delicious. 
 Knowing that having got your duck the next thing 
 is to eat him, the reporter called upon a well-known 
 caterer for information as to the proper way of cook- 
 ing the bird. Here, to his surprise, he met with a 
 statement which contradicts all the encyclopaedias 
 since the canvas -back duck was given a place 
 therein. He was informed that the canvas-back 
 duck does not eat wild celery. It has been popularly 
 supposed that the superiority of the Havre de Grace 
 and Potomac River birds was due to the fact that 
 they ate nothing but wild celery, but this famous 
 caterer says that they feed upon a plant called vales- 
 neria, the roots of which are covered with thousands 
 of little insects extremely acceptable to the palate of 
 the canvas-back. However this may be, there is 
 no doubt that when you get a canvas -back you 
 should cook him as follows: Loose as little of the 
 juice or blood as possible. The best way is to split 
 him down the back after plucking and singeing him 
 very carefully. Then lay him on a gridiron with 
 the spli side toward the fire; keep him flat on the 
 gridiron either by pressing him down with the other 
 half of the gridiron or by putting on a weight suf- 
 ficient heavy for the purpose, but not heavy enough 
 to bruise the meat. Let him remain over the fire for 
 twelve or fifteen minutes; then take him off and ex- 
 pose the breast to the heat for a moment, just long 
 enough to brown the skin nicely, and then serve 
 him immediately before he has a chance to get cool. 
 A salad of celery with a mayonnaise dressing is the 
 proper thing to eat with him. This with a bottle of 
 very dry champagne frappee makes a course for a 
 king. CANVAS-BACK IN SEASON* Its season lasts 6 
 months, November to April, inclusive; the first half 
 of the season being its prime. ROAST CANVAS-BACK 
 Singed, drawn, wiped inside with a cloth and 
 dusted with salt. Trussed with the head closing 
 
 CAP 
 
 the upper opening, the rump the lower one; roasted 
 in hot oven about 25 minutes. Dusted with salt, 
 spoonful of water inside to increase the gravy, 
 served on a hot dish; celery and currant jelly served 
 separate. 
 
 CAPERCAILZIE A variety of grouse in Nor- 
 way and Scotland, similar to the spruce grouse of 
 the Rocky Mountains, which feed on pine leaves in 
 winter. Require to be hung to make them tender, 
 and the breasts larded. Cooked as grouse and 
 prairie hens. COLD CAPERCAILZIE PIE Meat taken 
 off the bones and partly fried in butter, then briefly 
 steeped in marinade of vinegar, onion, nutmeg, 
 pepper. Sausage meat mixed with bread crumbs 
 and chopped yolks made. Pie dish bottom covered 
 with sliced bacon, meat and sausage forcemeat in 
 alternate layers, wine, lemon slices, buttered paper; 
 no top crust; baked in slow oven several hours; 
 eaten cold. 
 
 CAPERS Pickled green berries of a shrub, an 
 old-time favorite relish to eat with mutton. Can be 
 bought in cheaper ways than by the small bottle; 
 there are gallon jars and kegs of different sizes. 
 
 CAPER SAUCE- Butter sauce with capers and 
 some of the caper vinegar mixed in. PUREE OF 
 CAPERS Another caper sauce made by pounding 
 'capers through a strainer or seive and mixing the 
 pulp with butter sauce hot, or with softened butter 
 cold. Used for boiled and broiled fish, mutton, 
 lamb, tongue, tripe, etc. 
 
 CAPER SUBSTITUTES The flower of the 
 marsh marigold are used, and the pods of the nas- 
 turtium flower pickled; these are thought to be as 
 good as capers. 
 
 CAPOLITADE DE VOLAILLE Pieces of 
 fowl in Italian sauce, with capers. 
 
 CAPON A sterilized fowl of either sex, fed and 
 fattened for market. Capons attain to twice the 
 weight of ordinary fowls. ROAST CAPON Same as 
 turkeys and fowls, with stuffing and butter basting. 
 Giblet sauce or brown sauce from the baking pan. 
 BOILED CAPON WITH SALT PORK Same as chicken 
 or turkey. " A capon is not so profitable as a fowl, 
 as it wastes very much in cooking. The bird being 
 fed on barley-meal and milk, the flesh is necessarily 
 finer. CAPON PIE "Should you be in Dorsetshire 
 or Hampshire, and see before you a capon pie, the 
 capon stuffed with truffles and innumerable dainties, 
 eat. Eat, be it morning, be it noon, or be it night. 
 Eat, and be thankful for your introduction to one of 
 the greatest luxuries the mind of man has ever con- 
 ceived." 
 
 CAPSICUMS The small red peppers used in 
 bottled pickles. ESSENCE OF CAPSICUMS Cayenne 
 pepper in spirit, used in seasoning instead of pepper. 
 CAPSICUM BUTTER For sandwiches; butter and 
 cayenne. 
 
 CAPTAIN'S BISCUITS Home-made hard- 
 tack.
 
 266 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CAR 
 
 CARAFES FRAPPEES "Those who know 
 the French capital will readily recall the delight- 
 fully refreshing and almost picturesque appearance 
 along the Boulevards of innumerable balls of what 
 appears to be frozen snow in elegantly -shaped and 
 scrupulously clean water-bottles, or carafes. These 
 carafes f rappees, as they are called, are supplied to 
 restaurants all over Paris by a company, at a charge 
 which is a little more than nominal. They are 
 brought around in carts with the regularity of the 
 post, and are renewed sufficiently often to enable res- 
 taurants of the largest clientele to supply their cus- 
 tomers with water brought down to the temperature 
 of ice." BALL OF ICE IN A BOTTLE " It was in the 
 Cafe de la Paix that I saw him thus, and his strange 
 appearance attracted my attention. On the marble 
 slab before him stood an empty coffee glass and a 
 carafe Jrappee. It had puzzled him ; it puzzled me 
 once. I have heard many and various explanations 
 given which were far from being satisfactory. A 
 lady of my acquaintance opined, and opines still, for 
 all I know, that the bottles were made round the ice. 
 another, a scoffer, that the ice wasn't ice at all, but 
 ground glass; others that it is an optical illusion, 
 and so on. But after all it is a very simple matter, 
 and as easy of comprehension as is the manufacture 
 of ice-cream, only that in this case the bottle must 
 be filled three-quarters only, and be of tough glass, 
 to minimize the chances of a very animated 'bust'." 
 
 CARAMEL Burnt sugar. Said to have been 
 named from a Viscount Caramel. It is the stage in 
 boiling sugar when the boiling ends and it begins to 
 turn brown. At that stage it has a pleasant taste 
 like some brown candies. CARAMELS Name given 
 to various kinds of candies, generally of a dark sort. 
 CARAMEL COLORING Sugar burnt in a frying pan 
 till it smokes and turns black, water then added, 
 boiled, strained; used for giving the brandy-color to 
 soups, jellies and spirits. CARAMEL PUDDING 
 Sugar melted brown in a mould and run all over the 
 interior while cooling; filled up with custard of cream 
 and yolks; steamed. CARAMEL ICE CREAM Brown 
 almond nougat made by melting sugar to 'caramel 
 with almonds mixed; when cold, pounded fine and 
 mixed in ice cream instead of sugar. 
 
 CARAWAY SEED Seed of a garden herb; 
 grows like seed of carrots and parsnips; cheap in the 
 drug stores; used in various cakes and sweet crack- 
 ers, used by the Germans in rye bread, used steeped 
 in spirits to make kummel, and in various liqueurs. 
 
 CARBON XADE DE MOUTON (Fr.) Loin of 
 mutton. 
 
 CARBONIC ACID GAS The "fizz" of soda 
 water, etc. 
 
 CARDINAL PUNCH One pineapple sliced in a 
 bowl with powdered sugar, and left to stand a few 
 hours; the peel of the pineapple boiled in little water 
 which is strained to the fruit for higher flavor; 2 or 3 
 bottles good white wine added and about i Ib. sugar. 
 Set on ice. When served, a bottle of seltzer or 
 
 CAR 
 
 champagne added. STRAWBERRY CARDINAL One 
 qt. fine red-ripe strawberries in a bowl with i Ib. 
 sugar and i bottle red wine. Set on ice. When 
 served, 2 bottles Rhine wine or Moselle, I bottle 
 champagne or seltzer. Both of these may be frozen 
 and served semi-fluid in punch glasses, but need 
 more sugar for that. 
 
 CARDINAL SAUCE It signifies red sauce, 
 cardinal red having that name in allusion to the red 
 capes worn by the cardinals of the Romish church. 
 And the red sauce is made by mixing lobster coral 
 the eggs or roe in butter sauce, with some other 
 approved flavorings for a relish with fish. 
 
 CAREME A name often met with in the litera- 
 ture of epicurism. It is necessary to a polite educa- 
 tion to know something about a name so prominent. 
 Cargme was an original genius who happened to be 
 a cook, had the good fortune to get into the employ 
 of kings and emperors, and seing his advantages 
 and having the ability, he wrote books and laid the 
 foundation of a new school of cookery. It was Ca- 
 r6me who invented or re- invented the great list of 
 sauces now in use the hot sauces and garnishes 
 and ragouts of which the names even have never 
 been learned outside of France. There was another 
 able man at the time doing practical work, Beau- 
 villiers, the founder of the French restaurant, of 
 whom it has been said he exhausted the classical 
 school of cookery ; he used up all the resources of 
 the old world, but Careme invented a new one. 
 CarSine made a new departure. In Carthne's time 
 and afterwards, the old names and fashions of cook- 
 ery disappeared and the uniform, almost universal 
 language of the art, spread from Paris to all the 
 civilized capitals; it was the end of the old feudal 
 era of boar-hunting barons and coarse feasting and 
 the beginning of a period of gastronom.cal refine- 
 ment and the cultivation of the manners of the 
 table. Car6me died less than fifty years ago. He 
 was doing his best work in the first quarter of the 
 present century. %Ve have some of his recollections 
 of great men, which was written in 1832. He wrote 
 several books on cookery and kindred subjects; one 
 of them was his Maitre a" Hotel or steward-cook. 
 He himself was maitre d' 'hotel at one time to Prince 
 Tallyrand in that famous man's old age. He was 
 in the employ of the emperor Alexander of Russia, 
 at $6,000 a year, and spent for the emperor $5,000 a 
 week on the kitchen and table. CarSme was not an 
 economical cook or steward, nekher are they who 
 follow him faithfully. And yet he wrote in praise 
 of economy and claimed to practice it. Before that 
 time he had been cook to King George of England, 
 but left London in disgust, complaining of the dull- 
 ness of both the people and the climate. It is said 
 the immediate cause of his leaving England was an 
 insult he imagined he had sustained through the 
 king having added salt to one of his soups and eaten 
 asparagus with one of his new entremets. But in 
 Russia he was not quite satisfied, and looked back 
 upon the massive furnishings of the English table
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 267 
 
 CAR 
 
 with something- like regret. " When he cooked for 
 the Emperor Alexander he never could reconcile 
 himself to the Russian fashion of 'a table not six 
 feet broad ' and mostly wasted on flower pots, which 
 enforced the carving- up beforehand of all his glo- 
 rious gr Sfcs pieces. No, his pet crotchets were 
 better humored by the oval table of polished steel at 
 the Prince Regent's pavilion, which was heated by 
 steam, like a hot plate, and was large enough to 
 hold forty entrees at one time, in addition to its 
 monster decorations. Before the Revolution iron 
 tables of this kind were, Carbine says, to be seen in 
 the Chateaux of France and the private ' hotels ' of 
 Paris. And it is no wonder that iron was employed, 
 for, gross as the custom was in Cargme's time, it 
 was much worse about 1750. He copies from Vin- 
 cent la Chapelle one menu for 100 guests, which 
 comprised 24 soups, removed by as many large 
 dishes of fish : 48 joints ; 66 dishes of oysters, replaced 
 by 66 entrees; 34 cold meats and 48 roasts; besides, 
 66 salads, followed by 66 other entremets, and 30 
 sauces. Thus no fewer than 472 different dishes of 
 all sorts round, oval, square, octagonal and fanci- 
 form had to be put on the table, and with all this 
 each pair of elbows had but eighteen inches play." 
 Car6me was not the finisher of a reform movement, 
 he was the beginner of one. His works were grand- 
 iloquent and verbose and not adapted to be trans- 
 lated, and do not appear to be in print in English, 
 if they have ever been. The essence of Carfime's 
 work is in Francatelli, and French manners and 
 fashions have now left both behind. Beauvilliers 
 and Careme were the chief of two opposite schools 
 of cookery the classical and the romantic. Accord- 
 ing to Mr. Hayward, " Beauvilliers was more re- 
 markable for judgment, Careme for invention; Beau- 
 villiers exhausted the old world of art, and Careme 
 discovered a new one; the former was great in an 
 entree, and the latter sublime in an entremet; and 
 while Beauvilliers might be backed against the 
 world for a rot, Careme alone could be trusted to 
 invent a sauce." 
 CARDON (Fr.) Cardoon. 
 
 CARDOOX Imported vegetable; uncommon; 
 Spanish thistle heads. The stalks of the inner 
 leaves are the parts eaten. CARDONS A L'ESPA- 
 GNOLE Freed from the soft stalks, and prickly 
 edges rubbed off with a towel; cut in 4-inch lengths, 
 parboiled, peeled, boiled in white broth with lemon 
 juice and aromatics, served with espagnole and 
 butter. SPANISH CARDOONS WITH MARROW 
 Served with pieces of marrow toast. FRIED CAR- 
 DOONS Tied in bundles like asparagus and boiled, 
 rolled in flour and fried in butter; served with butter 
 sauce. CARDONS AU Jus Parboiled, scraped, 
 stewed, served with brown sauce and beef marrow. 
 CARDONS AC GKATIN Covered with bread crumbs, 
 moistened with butter and browned in the oven. 
 PUREE DE CARDONS AUX CROUTONS Cardoons 
 stewed in stock, passed through a seive ; the pulp 
 mixed with cream, served on fried rounds of bread. 
 
 CAR 
 
 CARDONS AU PARMESAN Cardoons blanched, 
 scraped, boiled, breaded, fried light color, dusted 
 with grated Parmesan, garnished with fried parsley. 
 CARRELETS (Fr.) Flounders; flat-fish. 
 
 CARRE DE MOUTON (Fr.) Neck or rack of 
 mutton. 
 
 CARROTS Necessary for soups and in stock for 
 sauces; not in much dernand as a vegetable in this 
 country. In England nearly always served with 
 boiled salt beef. CARROTS IN CREAM Young car- 
 rots scraped, parboiled, cut in slices, simmered with 
 very little water till tender; milk, butter, salt, pepper 
 and corn-starch thickening. CARROTS A LA FLA- 
 MANDE Prepared. like the last, finished with egg 
 yolks, thickening them like custard, pinch sugar 
 and chopped parsley. STEWED CARROTS Same as 
 in Cream. GLAZED CARROTS Young carrots, all 
 one size, parboiled, then boiled in seasoned stock 
 with butter and little sugar; dried down to a glaze. 
 SAVORY CARROTS Fried in slices with butter, on- 
 ion, pepper, salt, little flour; when brown, broth 
 added; simmered tender. CARROTS AND GREEN- 
 PEAS Carrots cut in dice, cooked half done; equal 
 quantity of peas added; boiled till all are done. But- 
 ter-and-flour thickening. GAROTTES A LA MENA- 
 GERE In slices in white sauce with wine and herbs. 
 CAROTTES NOUVELLES A LA SAUCE BLANCHE 
 Young carrots stewed in white sauce. CAROTTES 
 AU SUCRE Boiled and mashed, mixed with sugar, 
 milk, salt, eggs, in a dish, sugared over top and 
 browned in the oven. CARROTS IN PUDDINGS Two 
 oz. grated carrot to each pound of fruit; said to im- 
 prove plum pudding. Mashed carrot is an ingre- 
 dient in a pudding on a former page. CARROT 
 SOUPS About half the soups made contain more or 
 less carrots; they are in all vegetable consommes. 
 " Puree of carrots," "solferino" and "crecy" are 
 carrot soups. Grated carrot has been used to color 
 butter. CARROTS IN CHARTREUSES They are es- 
 sential for their color in ornamental vegetable pieces 
 and for salads of cooked vegetables in jelly. 
 
 CARP Fresh -water fish; second-rate in quality, 
 yet has received much attention from the cooks be- 
 cause perhaps of its good shape to serve whole. In 
 season from October to June. BAKED CARP The 
 gills and backbone, which are the parts tasting un- 
 pleasantly of mud in some fish, are removed without 
 quite separating the back; a stuffing of bread and 
 oysters put in, the fish sewed up, egged and bread- 
 crumbed on upper side, and baked; gravy made in 
 the pan with tomatoes or Worcestershire sauce. 
 CARP A LA COBLENTZ The fish cut in pieces, stewed 
 in stock with Rhine wine, carrots, onions, mush- 
 rooms and herbs. Served with the liquor, reduced, 
 lemon juice, butter, parsley, fried bread. CARPE 
 FRITE Split, floured and fried. GERMAN CARP 
 A LA BIERE Like coblentz, with beer to boil in in- 
 stead of wine; bits of bacon added. CARPE ALA 
 MARINIERE t'sea fashion) Cut xip, stewed in white 
 wine and water, garlic, onion, parsley; liquor thick-
 
 268 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CAR 
 
 ened with brown flour and butter; glazed onions 
 oysters, etc. , added. CARP ROE BALLS Roes cooked 
 with salt, vinegar and water 15 minutes, drained 
 chopped, mixed with bread crumbs, yolks, butter 
 baked in balls. COQUILLES DE LAITANCES DE 
 CARPE Scalloped carp roe in shells. " In illustra 
 tion of how much depends upon the dressing of fish 
 it may be observed that a stewed carp is really '< 
 splendid dish; a boiled carp one of the worst broughi 
 to table." (See Buffalo-fish.} 
 
 CARTOUCHES DE CUPIDON Cartridge- 
 forms of two colors of ice cream; Cupid's cartridges 
 CASSEROLE A baked shape of rice; the same 
 thing as cassolette, but larger. _ The rice is boiled 
 dry, then mashed and seasoned, shaped as wantec 
 with a wet knife, the inside hollowed out; exterior 
 decorated, egged over and baked; then filled with a 
 ragout or mince. 
 
 CASSEROLE (Fr.) Old name for saucepan. At 
 a fashionable party in Paris: "The casseroles de ris 
 de -veau petits pois were stews of sweetbread with 
 new peas served in small silver saucepans, the lid 
 being attached to each with a bow of silk ribbon." 
 
 CASSIA - The cheaper spice that passes for cinna- 
 mon. (See cinnamon.) 
 CASSIS- Black currant wine. 
 CASSOLETTES Little cup-shaped cases of 
 mashed rice, made to hold some kind of meat or sweet 
 filling. They are usually floured and fried ; they can be 
 finished by baking as well. One form of rice croquette, 
 which is like biscuit, with a hollow in the center to 
 hold fruit jelly, breaded and fried, is a cassolette, but 
 the shapes can be made deep and very ornamental. 
 
 CASSOULET DE TOULOUSE "To-day let 
 
 me merely mention the various ingredients that enter 
 into the composition of Cassoulet de Toulouse, as 
 given me by the amiable chef of the Caf6 Voltaire : 
 White beans, real Aries sausage, fresh pork, goose, 
 garlic, pounded bacon, pepper and salt; stewed 
 slowly together into a sort of puree for five hours. 
 Apropos of cassoulet, I noticed, in passing down 
 the Boulevard St. Michel yesterday, a very fine show 
 of fat geese displayed in one of the windows of 
 Boulant's Bullion Restaurant, and over them the in- 
 timation, 'Cassoulet every Saturday.' The portion 
 is tariffed at 6d. ; but not for many sixpences would 
 your correspondent try his feeble digestion with 
 such a dish, delicious and savory though it may be 
 to those endowed with what good old poet Horace 
 calls 'dura ilia.' At many other Parisian restau- 
 rants, by the way, brandade and cassoulet days are 
 announced in the windows on special showcards. 
 For some reason brandade is usually a fixture for 
 Tuesday, while cassoulet is almost invariably prom- 
 ised for Saturdays. On such days the restaurants in 
 question are certain to be filled with dark -bearded, 
 voiuble-tongued, and sub rosa be it added, garlic- 
 scented, sons of the South." 
 CASTOR PLANT Grown in boxes in dining 
 
 CAT 
 
 halls, bar-rooms, etc., it is said to effectually banish 
 flies. The discovery that castor-oil plants possesses 
 the faculty of killing and keeping away flies, mos- 
 quitoes and other insects was recently made by a 
 French scientist named Rafford, who noticed that 
 certain rooms in his house, in which castor-oil plants 
 were growing, were entirely free from these dis- 
 agreeable insects, although other apartments were 
 infested with them. He found lying near the plants 
 large quantities of dead flies, and a large number of 
 dead bodies were hanging to the under-surface of the 
 leaves, which caused him to investigate the matter, 
 and the discovery was made that the plants gave out 
 an essential oil or some toxic principle which pos- 
 sessed very powerful insecticide qualities. 
 
 CATFISH The catfish in the United States oc- 
 cupies the same ambiguous position as the conger- 
 eel in England; both are good food and Kith are sub- 
 jects of prejudice. The catfish furnishes too much 
 good meat to the markets of all that country that is 
 drained by the Mississippi for its value to be called 
 in question now, and yet a good many people will 
 not eat it There are several varieties, seeming to 
 be different only in the color of the skin, and some 
 people liking the white, oily, flaky catfish steak 
 compromise with their prejudices by choosing only 
 the yellow cat to eat. But the distinction amounts 
 to very little at the great fish stalls, where cat as 
 large as sturgeon and dear as halibut are cut into 
 steaks by the several hundred pounds daily and sold 
 as readily as any fish from the sea. At the steam- 
 boat landings on the Mississippi it is no uncommon 
 thing for a catfish of 100 pounds weight to be hooked, 
 the fishers using flat-boats to fish from and armed 
 with boat-hooks and axes to cope with such power- 
 ful game when hooked ; the plan is to get the monster 
 to the side of the boat in one of his quiet intervals 
 and sever the tail with an axe, after which the fish is 
 powerless. The common weights are, however, 
 about 40 or 50 pounds. In smaller streams the fish 
 seem to run smaller, and whole " strings of cats " of 
 small weight may be caught before one that weighs 
 as much as 20 pounds. Nothing elaborate in ways 
 f cooking catfish is known ; it is cut into steaks and 
 either broiled or fried. The colored people make 
 soup and chowder of the head. The fish is skinned 
 with a knife, in strips; but small ones are skinned 
 more quickly by scalding and scraping. "Catfish 
 or wolf-fish, which is seen occasionally in the shops, 
 astes not unlike veal." It was once proposed to 
 mport some varieties of American fish to stock En- 
 glish waters, the catfish among them, and somebody 
 ivrote to their Times: " In mercy to men and fishes 
 protest against importing this forbidding, ferocious, 
 uneatable, but all -devouring siluroid." In reply Mr. 
 r ish-Commissioner Blackford explains that "the 
 ish are nothandsome, but they are great favorites 
 n Philadelphia. A native of that place is never so 
 lappy as when he is atapic-nicon the Wissahickon 
 ating catfish and waffles. Not many catfish stray 
 nto our market, and when they do they are boxed
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 269 
 
 CAT 
 
 up and shipped to Philadelphia, where they are ap- j 
 predated." The catfish is in season from September 
 to April. 
 
 CATAWBA See Wines, Drinks, Ices. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER Grows to perfection in some 
 parts of this country, where the winters are mild 
 and moist, but is a rarity in the corn belt. Florida, 
 Utah and California send shipments of cauliflower 
 to all other sections. As a vegetable delicacy it is 
 only second to asparagus, if carefully cooked. 
 CAULIFLOWER AND TOMATO SAUCE The cauli- 
 flowers boiled in salted water until the stalk feels 
 soft when tried with a fork, then drained; tomato 
 sauce in the dish it is served in. CAULIFLOWER 
 RAREBIT Cauliflower in small flowerets fried with 
 mushrooms, grated cheese enough to coat it over; 
 served on toast. CHOUXFLEURS AU GRATIN The 
 flowerets separated after boiling, put in a baking 
 pan or dish; white sauce, grated cheese, and cracker 
 dust sifted over, browned in the oven. CHOUX- 
 FLEURS A LA HOLLAND AISE Boiled and served with 
 Hollandaise sauce. CHOUXFLEURS A LA MAYON- 
 NAISE Cold, sprinkled with\ vinegar and mayon- 
 naise sauce in the center. CAULIFLOWER SALAD 
 Cold boiled cauliflower with oil and vinegar. MARI- 
 NADE DE CHOUXFLEURS The pieces parboiled, 
 drained dipped in batter and fried. CAULIFLOWER 
 LM SOUPS -Purge of cauliflower, cream of cauli- 
 flower, consomme with cauliflower. CAULIFLOWER 
 PICKLES Generally mixed with other vegetables; 
 cauliflower is pickled the same way. 
 
 CAVY The guinea pig. Where cavies are an 
 article of regular consumption, especially as a sub- 
 stitute for game in the menu in the summer season, 
 they are cooked in a variety of ways. They are ex 
 cellent in various stews as entrees, with mushrooms 
 cut up and stewed brown, in a white stew with 
 button mushrooms, with brown onions, with green 
 peas, a la Soiibise, and especially in curry. The 
 guinea pig or cavy is prepared for cooking the same 
 way as a 'possum, by scalding and scraping the 
 hair off. 
 
 CAVIARE A relish or appetizer popular and 
 fashionable everywhere more than in the United 
 States. It appears in the majority of foreign menus 
 whenever the hors d'txuvres are named separately. 
 Can be bought in cans at all the fancy grocery stores. 
 To serve, it is spread either upon bread and butter, 
 to make sandwiches, or upon fried bread (croutons). 
 Caviare is greatly eaten in Berlin as a supper dish, 
 served separately on a dish with bread and butter, 
 cayenne and lemon, same as would be eaten with 
 oysters; in London the sandwich is the favorite 
 form. Caviare is as black as ink; it is the salted 
 and smoked roe of the sturgeon, and that is black be- 
 fore it is cured; a large sturgeon will yield a pailful 
 of roe that looks like berries. The comestible seems 
 to be a Russian invention, as it is oftenest branded 
 Russian caviare, though it is made in this country 
 to some extent. TARTINES DE CAVIARE Spread 
 
 CEL 
 
 on buttered toast, decorated with minced pickles, 
 pickled peppers and parsley. CAVIARE SALAD 
 " Caviare, of course, everybody knows of, and 
 Shakespeare's ' caviare to the general ' would have 
 no point to-day. But do you know how caviare 
 salad is prepared ? This is a most tasty preparation, 
 and of great delight to the connoisseur. This is 
 how you make it: Take % of caviare and % of bread 
 crumbs and almonds, and mince the whole up as 
 finely as possible with a little olive oil, till the mix- 
 ture becomes of the color and consistency of mortar. 
 It is very good indeed when eaten with olives." 
 
 CAVALIERS BROIL A boned shoulder of 
 mutton or lamb baked in covered pan, pressed flat 
 while cooking, scored with a knife point, and sauce 
 and seasonings rubbed into the gashes; broiled on 
 the gridiron. 
 
 CAYUGA DUCK The cayuga, like the canvas- 
 back duck, is of great size when mature. Its fine 
 dark flesh is of better flavor than that of an ordinary 
 wild duck, like which it should be cooked; It makes 
 a superb salmi. 
 
 CAZANOVA SAUCE Mayonnaise with chop- 
 ped yolks, shred whites and chopped truffles. 
 
 CEDRAT (Fr.) Citron. 
 
 CELERY An article of necessity now for every 
 good dinner or supper in the winter and spring. Is 
 thought not to have the delicate crispness so much 
 esteemed until after frost. It should be kept in ice 
 water for a few hours before it is used. The heart 
 stalks are eaten raw with salt. The fashions change 
 as to the method of serving; the tall celery glasses 
 set upon the table form the handiest and handsomest 
 medium, but having become so exceedingly common 
 they are discarded at present at fashionable tables, 
 and the celery is laid upon very long and narrow 
 dishes. It is almost invariably eaten with the fingers. 
 The principal use next made of celery is in salads, 
 or as a salad alone, cut in dice, with oil, salt, pepper 
 and vinegar shaken up in it. CELERI AU Jus The 
 stalks cut in finger lengths, stewed in stock, served 
 with brown gravy. CELERI A LA VILLEROI The 
 stalks cut in lengths, parboiled, drained, egged, 
 breaded and fried. CELERI A LA MOELLE Stewed 
 in stock, served on toast spread with marrow. 
 CELERI A LA CHETWYND The stalks cut in inch- 
 lengths, stewed, mixed with stewed onions in cream, 
 with chillies; served on toast. CELERI AU PAR- 
 MESAN Made the same as macaroni and cheese; the 
 celery in place of macaroni. CELERY SAUCE (white 
 or brown) Cut in small pieces and stewed, either 
 white or brown sauce added to it; served with fowls 
 and various small meats. CELERY SALT A 
 most useful kitchen adjunct. It can be made in 
 two ways: 1st, essence of celeri poured over a tablet 
 of table-salt, and the salt then dried, powdered by 
 rubbing one half on the other, and then bottled and 
 closely corked; 2nd, by using ground celery seeds. 
 These are prepared in a pepper-mill and mixed with 
 salt in the proportion of 2 oz. to the i Ib. of salt
 
 270 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CEL 
 
 CELERY PUREE (a sauce) Celery cooked and passed 
 through a seive, mixed with cream; served with 
 partridges, quails, chicken, etc. CELERY SOUPS 
 Cream of celery, consomme with celery, and mixed 
 with other vegetables. 
 
 CELERIAC Turnip-rooted celery. Eaten raw 
 and in salads; can be cooked as the other kind. 
 PCREE DE CELERI-RAVE Cooked root-celery like 
 mashed turnips. 
 
 CENDRE (a la) Cooked in the coals. 
 
 CENDRILLONS DU FILETS DE SOLES 
 A French chef's specialty for a party. " Shape the 
 fillets of soles into the semblance of babies' shoes; 
 bako them for about ten minutes, and, when cold, 
 cover each one carefully with a sauce chaudjroid, 
 prepared from the bones of the fish. Decorate what 
 represents the toe-points with a spreading of chervil 
 very finely chopped; and, at the part usually adorned, 
 form a knot of truffles in imitation of a bow. Dish 
 up in a rice-stand, garnished in the center with a 
 talade Italienne, and surrounded by croutons offish- 
 jelly." 
 
 CEPES These are large or " flap " mushrooms, 
 obtainable in cans put up in oil something after the 
 manner of sardines. They have the mushroom- 
 flavor strong and decided, which is only faint in the 
 canned champignons. Cfepes are valuable additions 
 to entrees and sauces, but are also easily converted 
 into a choice dish by draining from the oil and broil- 
 ing or frying like an omelet CEPES A LA BORDE- 
 LAISE Means Bordeaux cfepes; they only need to be 
 heated in a frying pan and have lemon juice and 
 parsley added. CEPES A LA PROVENCALE The 
 cfepes cut in slices, stewed with garlic, onions, bay 
 leaf and espagnole; lemon and parsley; served with 
 shapes of fried bread. CEPES OR MUSHROOMS 
 FRESH Are prepared a la Bordelaise by peeling, 
 washing and draining large mushrooms, steeping 
 for an hour or two in oil, salt and pepper; broiling 
 them, and using the same oil. with lemon juice and 
 parsley, for sauce. "But what struck me the most was 
 the enormous quantity of edible/wa^/ that were to be 
 seen about the market at Aix les Bains. They were 
 represented by samples in all their varieties of form, 
 size and quality. The cepes (esculent Boletus), the 
 ordinary mushrooms, the oronges, the morels, the 
 roussillons, etc., were in abundance, presenting a 
 curious aspect with their odd shapes and various 
 colors. But above all I noticed that the cfepes were 
 in majority, their rich tones and glaring colors con- 
 trasting strongly with the whiteness of their flesh." 
 
 CEREALINE A starchy pudding - material, 
 made from Indian corn. Used same ways as arrow- 
 root, corn starch, tapioca, etc. 
 
 CERF (Fr.) Deer, venison. 
 
 CERISES (Fr.) Cherries. 
 
 CERVELLES (Fr.) Brains. CERVELLES DE 
 VEAU Calves' brains. CERVELLES D'AGNEAU 
 Lambs' brains. CERVELLES DE MOUTON Sheep's 
 brains. 
 
 CHA 
 
 CHABLIS A white wine; best kind for cooking 
 fish. 
 
 CHAFING DISHES-Metal dishes set in an- 
 other dish containing hot water, a lamp underneath, 
 for keeping meats, etc., hot. 
 
 CHALYBEATE Containing iron, as iron 
 spring -water. 
 
 CHAMBERTIN A dinner wine. (See vines.) 
 
 CHAMBORD (a la) Style of cooking fish, in 
 which the fish is spread over with forcemeat and 
 decorated, and served with Chambord garnish. 
 Name of a part of France. 
 
 CHAMBORD GARNISH Light sauce offish- 
 liquor, seasoned with vegetables, wine and tomatoes 
 strained, and mushrooms, fish quenelles, cooked oys- 
 ters and truffles added. 
 
 CHAMBORD SAUCE For fish; made of ^ pt. 
 white pure of mushrooms, I pt. bechamel, 2 oz. 
 lobster butter, a glass of sauterne and piece of glaze. 
 
 CHAMPAGNE A wine accidentally discovered 
 by a good Benedictine monk, named Dom Perignon, 
 in or about the year 1688. (See mines for limes to 
 serve, etc.) " SWEET v. DRY CHAMPAGNE It is 
 for the interest of the wine manufacturer that a taste 
 for a very sweet wine should predominate in the 
 world. A dry champagne, to be palatable, must be 
 made of the finest raw wine. A sweet champagne 
 can be made of almost any material. The excessive- 
 quantity of sugar in the latter masks completely its 
 original character. In the former, every natural 
 feature is distinctly expressed, and its virtues or vices, 
 if it have them, are at once discerned. Champagne, 
 as it is known to the consumer, the Tin prepare (pre- 
 pared wine) of the manufacturers, does not improve 
 by age. The wine, the vtn brut (raw), of which it is 
 made, provided it be good, does, however, benefit 
 by increase of years. EFFERVESCENCE The effer- 
 vescence of champagne depends much upon the form 
 and condition of the glass out of which it is drunk. 
 It sparkles much more freely when poured into :\ 
 glass pointed, than in one that is round or flat at the 
 bottom. The presence of a little dust, left by a care- 
 less waiter, will increase greatly the development of 
 the gas; and the glass that, after being rinsed with 
 water, is wiped with a cloth, however fine, will 
 cause the champagne poured into it to sparkle, while 
 the same wine will be comparatively still in the 
 glass which has been merely rinsed and untouched 
 afterwards. STORAGE As soon as the consumer 
 has purchased his stock, he should remove the bot- 
 tles from the baskets or cases, and lay them in a eel - 
 lar of about 45 degrees, on their sides, with an 
 inclination of the neck downwards, so that the wine 
 may -remain in contact with the corks. Thus, con- 
 stantly bathed with the vinous fluid, they are pre- 
 vented from drying and shrinking, and from being 
 covered with mould, which will spoil the flavor of 
 the best champagne. If the cork shrink-, from dry- 
 ness and heat, the gas will escape, ar.J the wine,
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 271 
 
 CHA 
 
 losing its sparkle, become flat. EXPLOSIVENESS 
 The champagne which explodes the loudest and 
 flows out the frothiest, is by no means the best. It 
 is, in fact, a proof of its inferiority. Good wine 
 largely absorbs the carbonic-acid gas generated in 
 the course of its manufacture. In bad wine the gas, 
 instead of being absorbed, accumulates in the vacant 
 space above the liquid, and thus, when the bottle is 
 opened, the cork explodes with great violence, fol- 
 lowed by a cataract of froth. When this escapes, 
 the wine remains comparatively flat. In good wine, 
 on the other hand, the cork may require a great 
 effort to draw, and when drawn there may be little 
 or no froth, but the liquid will be seen to sparkle 
 with innumerable gems of brightness." CHAMPAGNE 
 DRINKING "The prevalent notion that a glass of 
 champagne cannot be too quickly swallowed is er- 
 roneous; and it is no bad test of the quality of cham- 
 pagne to have it exposed for some hours in a wine- 
 glass, when, if originally of the highest order, it 
 will be found to have lost its carbonic acid, but en- 
 tirely to retain its body and flavor, which had before 
 been concealed by its effervescence. Champagne 
 should, therefore, not be drunk till this active effer- 
 vescence is over, by those who relish the above 
 characteristic quality." "The reason champagne 
 is costly is not that the grapes from which it is 
 made are less prolific, or require more expensive 
 treatment to vinif y than other sorts ; it is the amount 
 of care and attention required after bottling that 
 makes the price so high. A bottle of champagne, or 
 other kindred wines, requires, without exaggeration, 
 twenty times the labor and care of any other, and in 
 addition a heavy percentage is annually lost through 
 the bursting of bottles during manufacture, which 
 proportion of breakage rises as the quality of the 
 vintage is more favorable, in good years reaching 
 from ten to twenty-five per cent. bottles and wine 
 entirely lost and yet the sale of champagne con- 
 tinues to be both large and remunerative to the 
 grower, and he, to meet the demand, extensively' 
 adulterates and doctors inferior qualities, as is proved 
 by the excess of that consumed over that produced ; 
 but from the above remarks it can be gathered that 
 there is no such thing as cheap champagne, and 
 when champagne is offered below a certain figure, 
 one may rest assured it is not champagne at all." 
 
 CHAMPAGNE CAKES Peculiar shapes of 
 cake, like the natural divisions of an orange, made 
 of i Ib. sugar, i Ib. butter, 9 eggs, i% Ibs. flour; 
 mixed like pound cake. Stiff paper folded in flutings 
 like a fan, spoonfuls of the cake dropped at distances 
 apart. 
 
 CHAMPAGNE CIDER Cider bottled and kept 
 one or two years. 
 
 CHAMPAGNE FRAPPE Bottles of cham- 
 pagne set in a pail of freezing mixture (pounded ice 
 and salt) until thoroughly cold and beginning to 
 freeze, like melting snow. " Mr. Henry Clair is an 
 ingenious man. A contemporary says of him that 
 
 CHA 
 
 he ca.nfrappe a bottle of champagne in five minutes. 
 He puts into a metal wine cooler a bottle of cham- 
 pagne, surrounds it with alternate layers of ice and 
 rock salt, and puts the cooler on a hot range, turns 
 the bottle with the hands, and the rapid melting of 
 the ice solidifies the wine at once." 
 
 CHAMPAGNE CREAM Cream-colored, sort 
 of champagne egg-nogg; yolks of eggs and pow- 
 dered sugar 5 yolks and 5 oz. to a bottle whipped 
 light, champagne and brandy added; half frozen, 
 served in punch glasses. 
 
 CHAMPAGNE SAUCE Sauce made by mix- 
 ing gooseberry or apple champagne with brown 
 sauce and little sugar; served with roast ham. 
 
 CHANNEL BASS The redfish of the South, or 
 sea bass. It is known by its having a black spot on 
 each side of the tail; attains a weight of ten or fif- 
 teen pounds; is cooked like snapper and any sea fish. 
 
 CHANCELLOR PUDDING A steamed cab- 
 inet pudding made of sliced small sponge cakes, 
 macaroons, raisins, citron, in a buttered and orna- 
 mented mould; filled up with custard before 
 steaming. 
 
 CHANTILLY CREAM Whipped cream; com- 
 mon thick cream; possibly it may have meant at first 
 clotted cream. French royalty had a country resi- 
 dence at Chantilly about the time our present culi- 
 nary terms were in course of formation, and there 
 also was the royal model farm and dairy, whence 
 came the " chantilly cream " for the king's table in 
 Paris. The term occurs with great frequency with 
 certain culinary authors, and never means anything 
 else than whipped cream. MERINGUE BASKETS A 
 LA CHANTILLY Egg-kisses built up in basket 
 shape by sticking together with candy; the basket 
 then filled up with sweetened and flavored whipped 
 cream. BORDER OF JELLY A LA CHANTILLY Same 
 as English jelly with syllabub; a border or ring of 
 jelly formed in a border mould, turned out and the 
 center filled up with whipped cream. GATEAU A LA 
 CHANTILLY A cake made hollow in the middle, 
 spread all over with jam and filled with whipped 
 cream. CHANTILLY SOUP Puree of young green 
 peas, slight flavor of mint and green onions. 
 
 CHAPON (Fr.) Capon. 
 
 CHAR Fish like a trout, or the cisco of the 
 American lakes; found in the lakes of the north of 
 England; cooked, potted, etc., like brook trout. 
 
 CHARCUTIER (Fr.) Pork butcher. 
 
 CHARCUTERIE (Fr.) The pork butchers' 
 manufactures; products of pork and other meats, 
 such as Strasbourg cerreals ,' Nancy chitterlings: ; 
 andouillcttes, saveloy pig's liver ; pig's feet -with 
 truffles ; r illettes de Tours ; bonding ; cerTtlativurst ; 
 schinkenvjurst ,' plockv.'itr.tt ; Frankfurt -y,iirstchen ; 
 also brawn, galantines, etc. 
 
 CHARCOAL The best deodorizer; best non- 
 conductor of heat for refrigerators if finely pounded ;
 
 272 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CHA 
 
 necessary for broiling meats. A supply for a hotel 
 can generally best be obtained by engagement with 
 a countryman to burn a pit, as it is called, though 
 some make a business of it and go around and take 
 orders. The tinsmiths have to have it, and can 
 often direct a steward where to buy. The price of 
 charcoal ranges from 7 or 8 to 15 cents per bushel in 
 ordinary localities. Charcoal should be kept dry. 
 The dust remaining is good and useful to destroy 
 the smell of chicken coops, waste barrels, tainted 
 meats, etc. 
 
 CHARLOTTE A sweet dish made of a casing 
 of cake or bread, the inside of fruit or cream. AP- 
 PLE CHARLOTTE See apples. CHARLOTTE DE 
 POIKES Pear charlotte. 
 
 CHARLOTTE AUX FRUITS Several kinds 
 of fruit stewed with wine in a charlotte made same 
 as with apples. 
 
 CHARLOTTE RUSSE Not to be confounded 
 with chartreuse. Charlotte russe is varied in sev- 
 eral ways; it is alining of either lady fingers or 
 sliced sponge cake, placed around the inside of a 
 mould and filled up with a cream containing gela- 
 tine enough to set it, pure whipped cream is the 
 best, sweetened and flavored. Small charlottes to 
 be served individually are made in muffin rings and 
 turned out when set, or in fancy paper cases and 
 served in them, when whipped cream without gela- 
 tine is sufficient. CHARLOTTE A LA POLONAISE A 
 sponge cake cut in slices, the slices dipped in fla- 
 vored cream and built up into their former shape; 
 the re-formed cake is covered with whipped cream 
 and sugar and decorated with jelly; served very 
 cold. 
 
 CHARLOTTE PRUSSIEXNE A charlotte 
 russe solidified by partial freezing, wine jelly being 
 poured in the mould first J^ inch deep, lady fingers 
 around when that is set; filled up with Bavarian 
 cream and set in a pail of freezing mixture till 
 w anted. 
 
 CHARLOTTES GLACEES Frozen charlottes; 
 made by lining a mould with lady fingers and filling 
 with ice cream; the name according to the filling; as 
 CHARLOTTE GLACEE A LA PLOMBIERES Is filled 
 with a white tutti frutti. A wetted paper is first 
 to be laid in the bottom of the mould. INDIVIDUAL 
 CHARLOTTES GLACEES Square cases made of 4 
 sponge drop biscuits joined at the ends with icing, 
 filled at serving time with ice cream. 
 
 CHARTREUSE- A liqueur invented by the 
 monks of Chartreuse. Can be bought of liquor 
 merchants, as well as maraschino, etc. ; is used by 
 pastry cooks in ices and creams. There are four 
 varieties of the liqueur mentioned; the yellow char- 
 treuse is that in common use at first-class bars. 
 " Chartreuse is of four kinds: The 'Elixir,' which 
 is most expensive, and, if genuine, has a slight fla- 
 vor of bitter orange. The 'Green Liqueur,' which 
 my friend 'Drogan' uses for his nigh-class creams, 
 has a pronounced flavor of Angelica. Much of its 
 
 medicinal, blood-cooling and healing qualities are 
 due to the extracts of garden balm, wild thyme, 
 sea-pink flowers, spearmint, red clove carnations, 
 violets, and the young tassels of the pine-trees. 
 There are many seeds also used in its composition, 
 such as coriander, orange pips, cucumbers, almonds, 
 pistachio nuts, etc. The green chartreuse is the 
 most popular of the four kinds, and a small glass of 
 this liqueur, with a dash of Cognac in it, is one of 
 the finest after-dinner stomachics a man can have. 
 The yellow chartreuse stands next in order, and is 
 more popular on the Continent than in this country. 
 It is far from being so spirituous in character as the 
 green chartreuse, averaging from 12 to 14 degrees 
 of alcoholic strength. Next comes the far-famed 
 'Balm' chartreuse, which is of a very pale straw 
 color, one might almost term it white. Here the 
 garden and other balsams predominate; its qualities 
 are nerve-soothing, healing and cooling." 
 
 CHARTREUSE An ornamental mould of veg- 
 etables, either cold or hot. {See illustration on 
 page 117.) A cold decorative chartreuse is made 
 by cutting cooked vegetables of different colors 
 into blocks, heating them in aspic jelly and build- 
 ing them in patterns upon the interior of a mould, 
 and filling the inside with green peas in jelly or 
 any similar material. CHARTREUSE A LA MIKADO 
 Forcemeat of chicken, highly seasoned with aro- 
 matic salt, is filled into rings of sliced cooked car- 
 rots and beets, dipped in jelly and a mould lined 
 with them; filled up with chicken and green peas in 
 jelly. CHARTREUSE HOT A small mould lined 
 with blocks of cooked carrots, turnips and beets, the 
 interior filled with well-seasoned cabbage drained 
 and chopped, or with potato, parsnip, etc. Made hot 
 and turned out on a dish. The chartreuse of veg- 
 etables derives the name from the same monks of 
 Chartreuse to whom the chartreuse liqueur is cred- 
 ited; it was one of their fast-day dishes, and strictly 
 made is entirely of vegetables. There is a malicious 
 story, however, in circulation that the good men, 
 having the inside of their ornamental dish filled with 
 cooked cabbage, excellently seasoned, rolled up and 
 systematically placed in rows, used to find a boneless 
 joint of a partridge rolled up in each leaf, like the 
 filling of a cigar, and regarding it as a miracle ate 
 the meat in silence. CHARTREUSE OF PARTRIDGES 
 Cooked joints of partridges imbedded in the cabbage 
 of the hot chartreuse before described. CHAR- 
 TREUSE or LAMB AU GASTRONOME Breast of lamb, 
 cooked and pressed, cut in blocks; cooked heart let 
 tuce; the two filled in a mould in alternate order, 
 pressed in, made hot in steamer; turned out, and 
 served with white sauce. LINING FOR CHARTREUSE- 
 IS best made by cutting the vegetables, either cooked 
 or raw, with a column (tube)Jcutter like bottle corks, 
 the ends showing outside, the length giving room 
 to build upon. CHARTREUSE AUX POULETS A LA 
 REINE A delicious, but rather expensive entree, the 
 wall of the chartreuse being formed of small circles 
 alternately of truffles and tongue.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 273 
 
 CHA 
 CHASSEUR (Fr.) Hunter. 
 
 CHATAIGNES (Fr.) Chestnuts, the small kind. 
 Marrons are large chestnuts. 
 
 CHATEAUBRIAND Name of aJFrench states- 
 man. First applied to fillet beefsteaks cooked be- 
 tween two ordinary steaks, their juice being squeezed 
 over it for sauce; now it has come to mean simply a 
 fillet (tenderloin) of beef, or slice of the fillet, with 
 Chateaubriand sauce. CHATEAUBRIAND SAUCE 
 Brown meat gravy, or beef extract, mixed with but- 
 ter, parsley and lemon juice. 
 
 CHAUD (Fr.) Hot. 
 
 CHAUD-FROID (Fr.) Literally hot-cold. The 
 term has a definite meaning- in cookery, being the 
 name of a certain sort of jellied sauce; still it is one 
 of the odd names which the French themselves can- 
 not give a reason for. It is supposed, however, that 
 it took its name from Cardinal Mazarin's famous 
 cook, who invented it; his name was Chauffroi (that 
 name is the original of Geoffrey and Jeffrey). An- 
 other story has been told in regard to it, that it orig- 
 inated with the proud and haughty Duke de Rohan, 
 of great repute as an epicure in his time, who, while 
 at dinner, was sent for in haste by the king and or- 
 dered his favorite dinner of fricasseed chicken to be 
 reserved till his return. When afterwards it was 
 served to him again he complained that it was 
 nichaiid ni froid (neither hot, nor cold), yet praised 
 it for its richness so muchjthat his imitators took 
 the hint, and the dish had a run. CHAUDFROID 
 SAUCE Is a rich gravy, made by boiling down game 
 or poultry with aromatics, and after straining adding 
 enough gelatine to make it bright-brown jelly, or, 
 rather, a jellied gravy. CHAUDFROID OF PAR- 
 TRIDGES The cooked meat cut in dice, warmed in 
 chaudfroid sauce, stirred about until cold; served 
 cold in caisses, crouslades, casseroles, rolls, paste 
 shells, patty cases, etc. Other meats the same way, 
 but the sauce is made cream -white for chaudfroid of 
 chicken. CHAUDFROID OF RABBIT- After roasting 
 or stewing, the rabbit is cut into joints, bones taken 
 out, and warm cooked sausage meat inserted. When 
 cold, the pieces are covered with chaudfroid sauce; 
 served with border of endive. CHAUDFROID OF 
 EGGS Hard-boiled eggs, an opening cut in the side, 
 and yolks extracted; mince of truffles, tongue, 
 chicken and mushrooms in thick sauce filled into the 
 whites; aperture stopped, eggs covered with chaud- 
 froid sauce, cold; served with aspic. 
 
 CHEDDAR An English variety of cheese. 
 
 CHEESE Served in small squares and almost 
 invariably eaten with the fingers. The last course 
 of a dinner, but often in the form of canapes and 
 other made dishes, appearing as well among the 
 hot hors d'ceirvres near the beginning. A chemist 
 has been wrestling with the difficulty of the indi- 
 gestibility of cheese in the case of weak stomachs, 
 and claims to have made the discovery that a % oz. 
 of bicarbonate of potash in a pound of grated cheese 
 
 CHE 
 
 stirred over the fire with some milk till it dissolves, 
 makes a soluble cheese that is easily digested. HY- 
 GIENIC CHEESE CUSTARD Cheese with milk and 
 potash as named; mustard, pepper, salt, and eggs, 
 poured like an omelet in hot buttered dish, and 
 baked. CHEESE PUDDING Same mixture with 
 more milk, poured to a dish of slices of bread, and 
 baked. WELSH RAREBIT Original recipe: J Ib. 
 cheese in small bits, % glass ale, lump of butter 
 mixed by stirring over a brisk fire, pepper, salt, and 
 dry mustard added, poured over squares of toast. 
 POTTED CHEESE Dry pieces of cheese pounded fine 
 with J^ Ib. butter for every pound; pepper, cayenne, 
 dry mustard; pressed down into jars to keep for 
 sandwiches and cheese toasts. CHEESE FRITTERS 
 Grated cheese, bread crumbs and eggs beaten well 
 together; fried in small lumps of butter. CHEESE 
 TOAST Cheese and butter melted together, on fried 
 bread. CHEESE AND MACARONI One way of doing 
 it in individual style is to place the cooked macaroni 
 In the dish, dredge grated cheese and bread crumbs 
 over, and brown each dish as it is sent in with the 
 salamander. Ordinary macaroni and cheese has 
 layers of macaroni, cheese sprinkled over, a sauce 
 poured in, crumbs or cracker dust on top, and baked 
 brown. There are other ways, however; the ordin- 
 ary hotel Macaroni and Cheese a la Genoise is but 
 boiled macaroni with grated Parmesan (which comes 
 ready-grated in bottles) dredged over and a spoonful 
 of tomato sauce besides. CHEESE SOUFFLES .Made 
 of J^ Ib. soft cheese, -2 oz. flour, i oz. butter, salt, 
 cayenne; all mixed with 3 yolks and the whites 
 whipped to froth; baked in cases or cups. Must be 
 served hot. CHEESE BALLS Whites of 2 eggs 
 whipped stiff, 2 oz. Parmesan cheese grated (or 
 other dry cheese), stirred together, salt, cayenne, 
 dropped in hot lard and fried like fritters; served 
 very hot. BAKED CHEESE (restaurant specialty) 
 Four oz. butter, % pint water boiled, 7 oz. flour 
 stirred in; when partly cooked, 4 yolks beaten, then 
 4 whites whipped, 4 oz. grated cheese; poured in 
 dish, covered with very thin slices of cheese; egged 
 over; baked. KINDS OF CHEESE Of 18 varieties 
 experimented with, Cheddar cheese was found to be 
 most easily digested, 4 hours; skim Swiss cheese 
 requires 10 hours. Fat cheeses are most digestible. 
 CHEESE WITH ASPARAGUS Cheese assimilates de- 
 liciously with most varieties of succulent vegetables, 
 and is particularly good with asparagus. Some 
 Parmesan or Gruyere should be grated over the soft 
 part. CHEESE STEWED WITH ALE Is much easier 
 of digestion than when toasted. The only post- 
 prandial dish of the Beef Steak Club used to be a 
 stew of cheese in a silver dish. CHEESE WITH CUT- 
 LETS Lamb or mutton chops are dipped in flour, 
 beaten egg, grated cheese and cracker dust, and 
 fried a I'ltalienne. CHEESE STRAWS Crisp sticks 
 of cheese -paste made of 4 oz. each butter, cheese 
 and flour pounded together, little water to moisten, 
 salt, cayenne; cut in strips and baked ; tied in bun- 
 dles with colored ribbon. They are cv.t from size of
 
 274 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CHE 
 
 straws to broad strips. PARMESAN PYRAMIDS 
 Square pieces of cheese- straw paste baked; whipped 
 cream mixed with grated Parmesan on top. CHEESE 
 RAMEQUINS Light cheese souffle^ baked in cases, 
 made of 2 oz. butter, i oz. flour, i cup milk, 6 eggs, 
 6 oz. grated cheese; baked. FRIED RAMEQUIXS 
 Puff -paste rounds spread with grated cheese wetted 
 with cream, doubled over, edges pinched; fried. 
 CHEESE TRIFLES Small patty-pans lined with 
 paste, cheese, cream, and egg yolk mixed for filling. 
 CHEESE OMELET An ordinary omelet with grated 
 or minced cheese strewed over and rolled up in it. 
 CHEESE SOUFFLE A little thick butter-sauce with 
 grated cheese, yolks and whipped whites; baked in 
 a. pan or case. CHEESE FONDU Melted cheese, 
 butter and eggs stirred up together. FAILLES AIT 
 PARMESAN-Cheese straws. FAILLES A LA SEFTON- 
 Strips of puff-paste with grated cheese between the 
 layers rolled in; egged over and baked. BISCUITS 
 AU FROMAGE The same paste of which cheese 
 straws are made, cut into squares or diamonds. 
 PAIN DE FROMAGE A cheese cream, made of cus- 
 tard with salt and cayenne instead of sugar; 3 oz. 
 grated cheese stirred into y t pint of the custard and 
 J6 pint whipped cream, and J^ oz. gelatine to set it 
 when cold. In a mould. 
 
 CHEESE-CAKES Are not made of cheese, 
 though the best of them are made with a proportion 
 of the same curd of which the cheese is made; milk, 
 curdled with rennet and drained in a cloth, is mixed 
 with sugar, eggs, almonds, etc., and baked in patty 
 pans lined with paste. They are small custard - 
 tarts. They are all those things which the French 
 call fanchonettes, mirletona, darioles and various 
 other names grouped under one denomination in En- 
 glish. All the pie mixtures used in the United 
 States, such as cocoanut pie, lemon pie, apple cream, 
 orange cream, cheese-curd pie, bread-custard pie, 
 etc., if baked in small pie pans or patty pans, are 
 English cheese-cakes. (See cream cheese.) 
 
 CHEF-DE-CUISINE (Fr.)- Chief of the kitchen; 
 chief cook; steward who cooks, or directs the cook- 
 ing operations, as the case may be. 
 
 CHELONIAN Scientific name for turtle, some- 
 times used as a synonym. 
 
 CHELSEA BUNS Sweet coiled rolls, made of 
 flour, milk, sugar, butter, yeast and yolks; the dough 
 rolled out and spread with butter, rolled up and cut 
 off in inch-thick pieces to make buns which will part 
 in coils where the butter is. Sugared over. 
 
 CHELTENHAM PUDDING A baked plum- 
 pudding, made of 6 oz. each suet and flour, 3 oz. each 
 bread crumbs, sugar, currants, raisins, 2 eggs, pow- 
 der, nutmeg, milk to mix it to stiff batter. 
 
 CHERRIES For hotel use the cherries ready - 
 stoned should be bought; they are solid fruit and 
 serviceable, and otherwise cherries are seldom pitted 
 and pies not good. White California-cherries are a 
 luxury for supper fruit and for ices. CHERRY PIE 
 Red or black are the best; can be used whole or raw 
 
 CHE 
 
 in pies, same as apples or blackberries, well heaped 
 up, or stewed, in less quantity. CHERRY ROLL 
 Pitted cherries rolled up in a sheet of biscuit dough, 
 tied in a cloth, steamed, boiled or baked. CHERRY 
 PUDDING In a bowl lined with paste and covered 
 after filling with cherries. CHERRY COBBLER A 
 large pie baked in a pan, cut out in squares; served 
 with the syrup. CHERRY MERINGUE Stewed cher- 
 ries spread y 2 inch deep on a sheet of cake; whipped 
 whites with sugar on top; light baked. CHERRY 
 ICE-CREAM White cherries mixed in pure cream 
 and sugar, and frozen. CHERRY-\\"ATER ICE Red 
 cherries stewed, strained; juice only mixed with thin 
 syrup; frozen. CHERRY ICE Cherries lightly 
 cooked; juice, water and .sugar frozen; whipped 
 whites beaten in; cherries added at last. CHERRY 
 SHERBET Whipped whites beaten in water ice after 
 freezing. FROSTED CHERRiES-Ripe cherries dipped 
 in whipped white of egg and rolled in powdered 
 sugar; dried on selves or paper. CHERRY JELI.Y 
 Gelatine jelly made with red-cherry juice and whole 
 white cherries in it. FLAN DE CERISES Open 
 cherry pie with custard on top of the fruit; cherry 
 tarts, turnovers, vol-au-vents, etc., same as other 
 fruit. CHERRY" FRITTERS Cherries stewed to pre- 
 serves, a spoonful between two very thin slices of 
 bread, dipped in batter, fried, sugared over. 
 
 CHERVIL One of the garden herbs used in 
 cooking. These herbs will grow in any garden, 
 and seed is obtainable at the large city seed-stores. 
 
 CHESTERFIELD CAKES A variation of 
 lady-fingers, having caraway seeds sprinkled on top. 
 
 CHESTER PUDDING A meringued cheese- 
 cake, or fanchonette, made of equal parts sugar, al- 
 mond paste, butter and raw yolks, mixed with little 
 lemon rind and juice; baked in a crust; frosted over. 
 
 CHESHIRE CHEESE English cheese of the 
 same style as the staple York State and Western 
 Reserve cheese of this country; large, medium rich, 
 yellow, and generally of fine flavor. 
 
 CHESTNUTS There are two sorts; the small 
 kind are too tedious peeling to be of much use in 
 cooking; the large ones are known as Italian. Thev 
 are good food when cooked ; can be made up in manv 
 ways. The best sweet potatoes have very nearly 
 the same flavor as chestnuts, and are often substi- 
 tuted for them wholly or partly in chicken stuffing 
 and purees. CHESTNUTS BAKED OR BOILED If the 
 truth were known, many persons would confess 
 that chestnuts never look so tempting as when they 
 are seen at the corner of a street on the rude baking 
 contrivance of a vagabond roaster. If they only had 
 the courage in the face of day, they would gladly 
 stop to buy a pennyworth and consent to pay a shill- 
 ing. Nobody has been known to feel in the same 
 way to boiled chestnuts, unless it be the Portuguese 
 and those who have learnt their style, which is to 
 j " top " them, that is, nip off their points, and to boil 
 ! them with aniseed half an ounce to fifty chestnuts. 
 1 CHESTNUTS FOR TURKEY They are boiled, peeled
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 275 
 
 CUE 
 
 and scraped, put in the turkey whole, but a little 
 seasoned forcemeat mixed in with them to hold the 
 seasonings and absorb the gravy of the roasting 
 fowl. CHESTNUT FoRCEMEAT-That which is named 
 in the bills of fare as puree de marrons, and is often 
 made of sweet potatoes. If made genuine, it is 
 pounded chestnuts, butter, bread crumbs, grated 
 ham, onion, lemon rind, egg yolks, salt and pepper. 
 Used to stuff chickens or any fowl, or sucking pig. 
 PUREE OF CHESTNUTS Like mashed potatoes, 
 strained through a seive; served with turkey wings 
 and various entrees. CHESTNUT SOUP A cream 
 soup thickened with puree of chestnuts. COMPOTE 
 OF CHESTNUTS Boiled and peeled, simmered in 
 syrup, flavored with lemon or orange; served hot or 
 cold, with pastry. CHESTNUTS AS A VEGETABLE 
 Boiled, peeled, fried a little to remove the husk; 
 stewed and served in various ways as other veg- 
 etables. CHESTNUT PUDDING Puree of chestnuts 
 and butter, corn starch, eggs, almond paste, sugar, 
 milk, lemon; baked or steamed. SOUFFLE OF CHEST- 
 NUTS Puree of chestnuts with sugar, vanilla and 
 white of an egg; made into very small balls; dipped 
 into white of egg and sugar twice; dry-baked in a 
 slow oven. CHESTNUT FLOUR "One may often 
 wonder, in reading some of Ouida's novels, at the 
 number of times she mentions chestnuts as a food of 
 the Italians, particularly those of Tuscany. The 
 Greeks and Romans used this kind of food, and at 
 one time the Arcadians subsisted almost wholly on 
 this farinaceous nut. In many parts of Italy its 
 flour is used in preference to that of wheat or corn. 
 The nuts are ground into flour in the same manner 
 as wheat and corn, and from this flour various dishes 
 are made, us well as cakes, fritters, and even bread, 
 and it is sweet, agreeable to the taste, and healthy." 
 POUDING AUX MARRONS A mould of chestnut flour, 
 butter, milk, eggs, sugar, vanilla; it is served with 
 apricot syrup. CHATAIGNES CROQUANTES Same as 
 souffle above. GATEAU DE MARRONS Same mix- 
 ture steamed as a pudding. MARRONS A LA CRE.ME- 
 Minced chestnuts covered with w r hipped cream. 
 MAKRONS GLACES Candied chestnuts. DEVILLED 
 CHESTNUTS Same way as salted almonds; peeled, 
 thrown into hot clarified butter, salt and cayenne; 
 fried yellow or light brown. 
 
 CHEVRETTES (Fr.) Prawns; large shrimps; 
 the Barataria shrimps. 
 
 CHEVREUIL (Fr.) Roebuck; venison. 
 
 CHICORY Green salad; endive; curled endive; 
 succory. There are two or three varieties, not more 
 different than varieties of lettuces. CHICORY WITH 
 'GRAVY Chicory cooked like spinach or greens. 
 CHICORY ROOT The great coffee-adulterant. Those 
 who do not care for the loss of the stimulating qual- 
 ities of coffee learn to like the taste of the chicory 
 mixture. An act was once passed to prohibit the 
 adulteration with chicory, but the consumption of 
 coffee af terwards decreased ; it was found that people 
 wanted chicory in their coffee, and the act was re- 
 
 CHI 
 
 scinded. The mixture is about one-fourth chicory 
 to three-fourths coffee. Chicory is cultivated as a 
 field crop; the roots arc dried, roasted, ground; can 
 be bought in packages separately and mixed to suit. 
 It is about one-third the price of coffee. The mix- 
 ture cannot easily be detected when there is milk in 
 the coffee; but those who drink coffee without milk 
 or cream become aware of the presence of chicory at 
 once. " Anent chicory in coffee I have an anecdote 
 to tell. President GreVy loves his Mocha better than 
 most men, and as a consequence hates the name of 
 chicory as much as we may suppose him to hate the 
 name of Prince Bismarck. Accordingly, when hi 
 ever goes into a country inn or hotel, he asks the 
 waiter if there is any chicory in the house. The 
 waiter brings him some. 'More, more!" cries the 
 President; *I want lots of chicory lots.' This he 
 repeats, until the waiter answers in despair that 
 there is not another grain of chicory left in the house. 
 ' Well, then,' says the President, ' you may make me 
 a cup of coffee now.' " Chicory is not in general 
 use in the United States; most people are in the 
 habit of buying their coffee in the berry, and either 
 grinding it or having it ground by the grocer. 
 Chicory in separate form, when wanted, can be 
 bought ready, put up in convenient packages, at all 
 the large grocery stores. 
 
 CHICKEN In the United States chicken is the 
 name commonly applied to fowls of any age, the 
 word fowl being but seldom used; and this practice 
 has been so extended that it takes in " prairie 
 chickens" and "guinea chickens." SMOTHERED 
 CHICKEN Home fashion of braising; halves of 
 chicken cooked in a covered pot with live coals on 
 the lid ; fat and seasonings cooked with the chickens, 
 and gravy made of the remaining liquor. Imitated 
 by baking with sauce in tJie pan in the oven; the 
 chickens floured on top. FRIED CHICKEN Joints 
 rolled in flour and cooked in a kettle of hot lard. 
 CHICKEN A LA MARENGO Cut up in joints, rolled 
 in flour, fried in oil, sauce made in the pan, the oil 
 remaining in it; dished in pyramid form, and sauce 
 poured over. "On the evening of the battle of 
 Marengo, the First Consul was very hungry after 
 the agitation of the day, and a fowl was ordered 
 with all expedition. The fowl was procured, but 
 there was no butter at hand, and none could be 
 found in the neighborhood. There was oil in abund- 
 ance, however; and the cook, having poured a cer- 
 tain quantity into his skillet, put in the fowl, a clove 
 of garlic and other seasoning, with a little white 
 wine, the best the country afforded; he then gar- 
 nished it with mushrooms, and served it up hot. 
 This dish proved the second conquest of the day, as 
 the First Consul found it most agreeable to his pal- 
 ate, and expressed his satisfaction. Ever since, a 
 fowl a la Marengo is a favorite dish with all lovers 
 of good cheer." FILETS DE VOLAILLE A LA DUMAS- 
 Breast of chicken, each one cut in two raw, spread 
 with a puree of cucumbers in white sauce, breaded 
 and fried; served on a pure of cucumbers. FILKTS
 
 276 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CHI 
 
 DE VOLAILLE AUX CoNCOMBRES Breast of chicken 
 breaded, arranged on the dish with stewed cucum- 
 bers, and puree of cucumbers for sauce. FILETS DE 
 VOLAILLE A LA NESSELRODE Breasts of chickens 
 served cold, masked with a white chaudfroid sauce; 
 alternately with glazed slices of tongue and chopped 
 eggs, a mayonnaise salad in center. FILETS DE 
 VOLAILLE AUX POINTES D'ASPERGES Hot dish; 
 breasts of fowl coated with white supreme sauce 
 ranged around a pile of asparagus-points in center 
 of dish; alternating with slices of tongue. SUPREME 
 DE VOLAILLE AUX TRUFFES Breast of chicken 
 coated with white supreme sauce ranged around a 
 pile of truffles cooked in wine. SUPREME DE VO- 
 LAILLE A LA ROYALE Breasts of chickens coated 
 with white supreme sauce, a slice of black truffle on 
 each, ranged upon an ornamental border of veg- 
 etables heaped in the center. CHAUDFROID DE FI- 
 LETS DE VOLAILLE AU SUPREME Cold dish; breasts 
 of chickens coated with white supreme sauce, decor- 
 ated with truffles, ranged around a center of truffles 
 in chaudfroid sauce. SAUTE DE FILETS DE V T OLAILLE 
 A LA CARDINAL Hot dish; breast of chickens fried 
 in butter, slices of truffle stewed in wine alternating 
 in the dish; cardinal sauce in the center. FILLET 
 OF CHICKEN A LA DAUPHINE Breasts of chickens 
 laid open, forcemeat inclosed, rolled up, covered 
 with pork slices, simmered in butter and broth, 
 dished on shape of fried bread; truffle sauce. 
 CHICKENS A L'lvoiRE-Chickens ivory- white; chick- 
 ens cooked with sliced lemon and fat salt pork on 
 the breast in seasoned broth, white supreme sauce 
 poured over; red tongue for garnish. CHICKENS 
 A LA CHIVRY Boiled in seasoned broth; served 
 with green herbs in rings of onion parboiled, and 
 ravigote sauce. CHICKEN A LA PROVENCALE Cut 
 up, fried in oil with garlic and seasonings, sauce of 
 espagnole, wine and tomatoes, lemon juice and pars- 
 ley. POULETS A LA TARTARS Breaded, broiled; 
 served with tartare sauce and pickles. POULETS 
 SAUTE AUX TRUFFES Cut up, fried in butter; 
 served in brown sauce with truffles. POULETS A LA 
 PROVENCALE Cut up in a pan; garlic, onion, oil, 
 herbs; white wine to moisten, white sauce poured 
 over, bread crumbs on top; browned in the oven. 
 POULETS A L'ORLY Cut up, dried, dipped in thin 
 batter, fried; served with rings of onions floured and 
 fried. POULETS A LA BONNE FEMME Stewed in 
 white sauce. POULETS A LA CHASSEUR Marinaded 
 in oil, lemon juice, onions, herbs; breaded, broiled; 
 served with wine sauce with chopped ham. POULETS 
 EN KARI Curry of chicken. FRITOT DE POULET 
 Cut up, marinaded in oil with seasonings, floured 
 and fried ; tomato sauce. FRICASSEE DE POULET 
 Stewed in white sauce with mushrooms. FRICASSEE 
 DE POULET A L'ANCIENNE Stewed in cream sauce 
 with spring onions. CHICKENS A LAMONTMORENCY- 
 Stuffed with forcemeat, sweetbreads, truffles and 
 mushrooms minced ; breasts larded, roasted in the 
 oven; sauce with espagnole in the pan; garnish of 
 sweetbreads and mushrooms. CHICKENS A LA ST. 
 
 CLOUD White dish, with red tongue and black 
 truffles inserted in the breasts, and pork slices over; 
 simmered in broth; white supreme sauce. FILETS 
 
 DE POULARDES AU SUPREME Breasts of fowls 
 
 simmered in seasoned stock with butter, in a circle 
 in the dish; supreme sauce over. FILETS DE 
 POULARDES AUX CHAMPIGNONS Covered with 
 cream sauce with mushrooms. FILETS DE POU- 
 LARDES A LA DUCHESSE Chicken breasts flattened; 
 half of them larded, braised, glazed: half plain saute; 
 dished alternately in a circle, cream sauce with 
 cock's combs in the center. EPIGRAMME OF 
 CHICKEN A LA MACEDOINE Imitation of cutlets 
 made with the breasts flattened, breaded, bones in- 
 serted, fried ; imitation cutlets made of the legs.boned, 
 stuffed, sewed up, pressed, simmered, with gravy; 
 dished alternately in a circle, macedoinein the center. 
 FILETS DE POULARDES A LA TALMA The breasts 
 divided into upper and minion fillets (natural divi- 
 sion), larger ones larded, braised, glazed; minion 
 fillets studded with green string beans and fried in 
 butter; spinach in center, brown sauce under. 
 FILETS DE VOLAILLE A L'AVBASSADKICE Breasts 
 sliced, forcemeat spread, smoothed, shaped, egged 
 over, half of them covered with chopped truffles 
 and breadcrumbs, others with chopped ham and 
 breadcrumbs, cooked in saute pan in the oven, 
 served with puree of cucumbers. ASPIC DE POULET 
 A LA PRINCESSE Cold ornamental dish, cooked 
 breast of chickens in oval slices, covered with jelly 
 singly spread in a dish, cut out with a cutter when 
 set, each slice with the jelly coating it; served with 
 salad and aspic border. COTELETTES DE VOLAILLE 
 A LA DAUPHINE Legs of chicken with thigh-bone 
 removed, steeped in oil, breaded, fried, served with 
 vegetables in the center and cream sauce. CUTLETS 
 OF CHICKEN A L'ALLEMANDE Minced raw chicken 
 meat and pieces of cooked chicken in small squares 
 mixed together, red tongue, mushrooms and sea- 
 sonings mixed in, making a chicken sausage meat. 
 Shaped like cutlets, cooked in saucepan with butter, 
 cooled, pressed, breaded, fried, chicken bones in- 
 serted ; Allemande sauce. CUTLETS OF CHICKEN A 
 LA VILLEROI Minced cooked chicken made up as 
 for croquettes, shaped, dippe<J in the sauce of onions, 
 parsley, flour, yolks, butter, broth, etc., breaded and 
 fried; tomato sauce. CUTLETS OF CHICKEN A LA 
 MONTPENSIER Breasts of chicken, raw, chopped, 
 mixed with butter and cream, shaped like lamb 
 chops, breaded, fried one side at a time in little 
 butter; tomato sauce. CHICKEN SAUTE A LA PRIN- 
 TANlERE-Cut up, fried in clear butter; sauce of 
 white wine and espagnole, green peas and string 
 beans mixed in, poured over chicken. SALADE DE 
 FILETS DE VOLAILLE A LA BRUNOW Cold dish; a 
 white aspic of cream and jelly, chicken meat, slices 
 of cooked cucumber and green peas, cut out when 
 cold and set served on a salad border with white 
 tartar sauce. CHARTREUSE DE VOLAILLE Cooked 
 pieces of chicken in forcemeat in a mould lined with 
 vegetables. CREME DE VOLAILLE Puree of chicken
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 277 
 
 CHI 
 
 mixed with cream sauce and eggs, steamed in a 
 mould lined with truffles and tongue a chartreuse. 
 PETITS SOUFFLES DE VOLAILLE White meat of 
 chicken, pounded, passed through a seive, mixed 
 with butter, cream, yolks, whipped whites, baked 
 in small paper or paste souffle cases. SOUFFLE 
 GLACE DE VOLAILLE Frozen mould of chicken 
 salad with whipped jelly. QUENELLES DE VO- 
 LAILLE Pounded white chicken meat, with season- 
 ings made up in olive shapes, poached, or breaded, 
 and fried; served with dressed vegetables. QUE- 
 NELLES DE VOLAILLE EN DEMI-DEUIL Chicken 
 forcemeat balls in half-mourning; white quenelles, 
 half of them poached, half rolled in chopped black 
 truffles; served with white supreme sauce and black 
 truffle garnish. QUENELLES DE VOLAILLE A LA 
 RUSSE Quenelles of fine chicken-forcemeat, oval, 
 flattened, with oval slices of tongue to match in size, 
 glazed; dressed in a crown (encouronne) alternately; 
 sauce suprfime. BOUDINS DE VOLAILLE A LA Lu- 
 CULLUS Quenelles of chicken with truffle purde in 
 the center of each; served in an ornamental crous- 
 tade with Allemande sauce. CHICKEN CROQUETTES 
 A L'ITALIENNE Finely cut cooked chicken with 
 some mushrooms; thick butter-and-flour sauce made 
 containing minced onion, salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
 lemon juice, parsley, raw yolks; chicken mixed in, 
 cooled; made in shapes or long rolls; breaded, fried; 
 white Italian sauce. CHICKEN RISSOLES Raw 
 chicken -meat minced with fat salt pork and herbs, 
 long thin rolls inclosed in thin paste, edges joined 
 with egg; fried in lard; ends trimmed off. CROME- 
 SKIES OF CHICKEN Same mixture as croquettes; 
 small finger -lengths rolled in shavings of cooked 
 fat salt pork, dipped in batter and fried. POTAGE 
 A LA REINE A cream-of -chicken soup, the chicken 
 pounded and passed through a seive. PATTIES OF 
 FOWL A LA CORDON BLEU Vol-au-vent patty 
 cases, white puree of breast of chicken, and cream 
 enough to nearly fill them; whipped white of eggs 
 salted, colored green with parsley juice heaped in 
 each patty; slightly baked to set; served on lace 
 paper. STUFFED PULLET, TURTLE FASHION A 
 boned chicken made to look like a turtle ; served hot. 
 Bones taken out, head left on and half covered with 
 the skin of the neck, like a turtle's head; body filled 
 with forcemeat and sewed up; chicken feet skinned, 
 inserted for fins. The chicken braised in stock, 
 decorated in dish with truffles to imitate shell. 
 PULLED . FOWL Pulled meat from cooked fowls, 
 lightly floured and fried in butter, then stewed in 
 stock, thick gravy with starch, and quince jelly; 
 garnished with cress and pickled fruit. CHICKEN 
 CUKRY -Mr. Friday Madrassi's specialty. A large 
 chicken cut in joints; 2 onions and 3 oz. butter fried 
 together; chicken added, and 2 tablespoons curry 
 powder, salt, cupful of gravy; gently stewed till 
 tender, finished with i tablespoon lime juice; served 
 with rice. CHICKEN A LA D'ESCARS The Due 
 d'Escars was one of half a dozen nobles whom 
 Louis XV associated with himself in a series of 
 
 CHI 
 
 cooking sprees, when they prepared their own grand 
 suppers, each member carrying out his own part. 
 The king would devote himself to poulel an basilic 
 and preparations of eggs, in which he was highly 
 skilled. The Due de Gontant would prepare the 
 salad; the Due de Coigni would superintend the 
 roil each one of the party being famous for cer- 
 tain dishes and there were never fewer than forty - 
 eight. D'Escars died of a cramp colic through eat- 
 ing a little of the king's puree of truffles; the king 
 looked upon it as an insult and would not attend the 
 funeral. However, the d'Escars' chicken was 
 trussed as for boiling, the breasts larded, placed in a 
 stewpan lined with slices of bacon, a slice of ham, 
 onion stuck with cloves, herbs, carrot, stock and 
 sherry; cooked over moderate fire with coals on the 
 lid to brown the larding; sauce strained, skimmed, 
 reduced to glaze. POULET A LA BOIVIN Specialty 
 of a French restaurant. Chicken cut up, browned 
 in a pan with butter, button onions, potato balls 
 (scooped out of raw potatoes); seasoned; finished by 
 baking in the oven with blanched and quartered 
 artichokes in sauce pan; gravy made in pan with 
 meat glaze and tarragon; little heaps of the arti- 
 chokes, potatoes, etc., atound the chicken in dish, 
 and sauce over. BRAISED FOWLS WITH TOMATO 
 SAUCE The breast bone removed without dividing 
 the fowl, butter, salt, pepper and lemon juice put in 
 place of it; slices of lemon on the breasts; bacon 
 slices in the pan; braised, glazed; tomato sauce. 
 CuT-Up FOWL To avoid difficulty of carving, 
 carved in kitchen, bound up again with narrow rib- 
 bon, easily severed by one who must carve at table. 
 CHICKEN FRITTERS Pieces of cold roast chicken 
 soaked in seasoned vinegar; dipped in batter; fried. 
 INDIAN-FRIED CHICKEN Joints rubbed with curry 
 powder, fried in oil; served on bed of fried onions. 
 ROAST FOWL With slices of lemon on breast; fowl 
 wrapped up in thin slices of bacon and buttered 
 sheet of paper; roasted an hour; giblet or tomato 
 sauce. CHICKEN ROLLS Long finger-rolls split 
 half open, and inside hollowed out, filled with 
 chicken forcemeat, closed; dipped in egg, fried light 
 brown; parsley garnish. ROAST PULLET AU Jus 
 " At the Cafe Royal, Regent street, famed alike for 
 its cuisine and its cellar, an enjoyable dish is a ' sur- 
 rey chick,' otherwise a roast pullet or capon, served 
 simply aujus, with watercress. This is the equiv- 
 alent of the poTilet de Parilly one may enjoy at 
 Bignon's restaurant, so dear to Parisian epicures." 
 CHICKEN FILLETS Larded fillets, having 4 fine 
 strips of pork for each, seasoned, breaded, fried ; a 
 spoonful of tartare sauce served on each one. POU- 
 LET A LA VIENNOISE Halves of chickens steeped 
 in oil, drained, breaded, broiled; served on toast 
 with white sauce in which whipped raw cream 
 is stirred at the last moment. CIGARETTES OF 
 CHICKEN A LA REINE Fine-pounded chicken force- 
 meat, with chopped truffles, rolled to cigar-shapes; 
 breaded and fried. POULET A LA ALBERT VICTOR 
 Cigarettes of green herbs and hard-boiled yolks-
 
 278 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CHI 
 
 forcemeat rolled in shavings of tongue and ham; 
 used to fill up a boned chicken; larded outside, 
 breaded; -white mushroom sauce. RISSOLETTES DE 
 VOLAILLE A LA PoMPADOUR-Fme-pounded chicken 
 forcemeat (quenelle) used as a paste to inclose pieces 
 of chicken-croquette preparation, like square sand- 
 wiches; dipped in batter and fried. CHICKEN A LA 
 SONTAG Cut up, fried slightly in butler with on- 
 ions and raw ham; broth added; thickened, strained; 
 served with shredded leeks fried, and boiled rice 
 mixed in the sauce. CHICKEN IN WHITE SAUCE 
 Whole, trussed, stewed in stock, with dash of vin- 
 egar to keep white; dished with white sauce, fla- 
 vored with celery; boiled cauliflower garnish. 
 CHICKENS IN BECHAMEL Joints of chicken cut up 
 after boiling, and bones taken out; in cream sauce; 
 minced parsley on top; truffles around. SOUFFLE 
 DE GELENOTTES A L'ESSENCE DE TRUFFES A Par- 
 isian specialty. Pounded breasts of 4 chickens, as 
 for quenelles, mixed with little white sauce; butter, 
 salt, pepper, nutmeg, 5 yolks and 2 whites raw, 
 passed" through a seive.grated truffles added, whipped 
 cream and whipped whites in a buttered mould; 
 cooked in barn-marie; served with sauce of wine in 
 veloute. FRIAR'S CHICKEN Joints of chicken 
 stewed in seasoned broth with chopped parsley; 
 thickened with egg yolks. GLAZED CHICKENS 
 English name for potllets au supreme. POULET A LA 
 PARMENTIER Paris hotel specialty. Chicken in 
 joints fried in clear butter; potatoes scooped out 
 size of cherries cooked same way; potatoes around 
 the chicken; parsley dust overall. CHICKEN AND 
 RICE Stewed chicken taken up, liquor strained and 
 rice boiled in it, along with seasonings; chicken 
 served in center. ROAST CHICKEN A LA BRESSOISE- 
 The chickens of Bresse were mentioned by S.avarin 
 as of the highest excellence, owing probably to the 
 breed of fowls. " The black LaBresse fowl, which 
 furnishes so much of the choice poultry eaten in 
 Paris, especially the capons and poulardes, is un- 
 equaled in quality of flesh, and quantity .and weight 
 of eggs." The fat chickens are roasted with bards 
 of bacon on the breasts, served with cress in the dish 
 and sauce of the chicken drippings; livers, shallot 
 bread crumbs and orange slices rubbed through a 
 seive. POULETS AUX PETiTsPois-Chicken in joints 
 stewed in brown gravy; green peas added, and on- 
 ions and parsley. BROWN FRICASSEE OF FOWL 
 Joints fried in butter; flour stirred in till brown; 
 broth, wine, mushrooms, parsley, salt, pepper; 
 skimmed, boiled down. CHICKEN PANADA For 
 the sick. A pure"e of chicken with milk seasonings 
 and flour a cream of chicken like thick ' soup. 
 PUREE OF CHICKEN [Soup] A LA BEARNAISE 
 Chicken pounded, passed through a seive; boiling 
 cream and almond milk added; pieces of breast of 
 chicken in it; rings of fried bread served with it. 
 CHICKEN SOUP A LA C'HiFFONADE-Chicken in small 
 pieces fried in butter; broth added; finely shredded 
 vegetables to finish. CHICKENS A L'ITALIEXNE 
 Chickens stuffed with the chopped livers, bacon, 
 
 CHI 
 
 mushrooms, butter, mixed herbs and spice; covered 
 with pork slices and buttered paper ; roasted ; sauce of 
 blanched parsley, chives, and tarragon leave* minced 
 in wine; oil, anchovies, lemon, pepper, salt, gravy 
 and yolks to thicken. SPATCHCOCK CHICKEN En 
 glish name. A boned chicken trimmed, flattened 
 and broiled; served with mushroom sauce or made 
 gravy of stewed gizzard, etc., w ith butter and lemon 
 juice. CROUSTADES OF CHICKEN Cases of bread, 
 shaped like cups, fried in lard and drained; filled 
 with minced chicken in a rich sauce. CHICKEN PIE 
 A L'AMERICAINE Chicken cut up. backs, necks and 
 rough pieces left out for broth; chicken stewed with 
 seasoning, milk, parsley, butter, flour; poured in 
 baking pan, covered with medium puff paste: egged 
 over; baked an hour. SMALL CHICKEN Pits A LA 
 RESTAURATEUR Puff-paste flats rolled thin, size of 
 palm of the hand; egged over, baked, split; chicken 
 cut in dice in rich white sauce placed between sand- 
 wich fashion; sauce poured aiound; parsley garnish 
 or chopped yolks. CHICKEN PATTIES A LA REIXE 
 Chicken in cream sauce in puff- paste patty cases. 
 CHICKEN TO MAKE TENDER The proprietors of a 
 sulphur springs hotel, noted for its fried chickens, 
 having too much to do engaged a steward to assist 
 them, and found it necessary to impart to him their 
 secret as follows: "To make chickens tender, soft, 
 white, juicy, plunge them the moment their necks 
 are broken into very cold water and let them remain 
 in it for from 12 to 24 hours; then take them out, 
 scald and remove the feathers and draw them as 
 usual. It is more trouble to pick them, but the flesh 
 is incomparably better than chickens dressed the 
 common way. HANGING CHICKENS The meat is 
 much improved by keeping a few days after killing. 
 The fried and roasted chickens which are com- 
 plained of as dry and tasteless are those cooked as 
 soon as killed. PACKING CHICKENS UNOPENED 
 Chickens packed in barrels for transportation suffer 
 damage in flavor whichever way may be adopted; 
 but of two evils the least is to have the chickens not 
 drawn before packing, for if once cut open they be- 
 come sour all through in a short time in the boxes 
 or barrels. 
 
 CHIFFON ADE Shredded vegetables for soups. 
 
 CHIFFONIER A man who gathers broken 
 victuals from the kitchen, sorts and re-sells them. 
 
 CHILI Red pepper. 
 
 CHILI SAUCE Made of 6 ripe tomatoes, 4 
 green peppers, i onion, i tablespoon sugar, i oz. 
 salt, i% cups vinegar, chopped, boiled i hour. 
 
 CHILI COLORADO SAUCE Made of the 
 Mexican sweet red pepper pods finely minced in a 
 vinegar pickle; can be bought in bottles; favorite 
 sauce with oysters, cold meats, etc. 
 
 CHINE OF PORK The fleshy and broad part 
 of the back-bone, between the shoulders. It is 
 roasted plain and served with apple sauce, and also 
 stuffed in incisions with minced sage and onions.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CHI 
 
 CHEESE COOKERY The Chinese have es- 
 tablished restaurants in Xew York and San Fran- 
 cisco, and have been with their methods and ma- 
 terials on exhibition in London. In the former 
 places they are at their best in a business way; in 
 London they were in the hands of a manager who 
 had to make money by them, and they were under 
 the supervision of a French chef, who drew up bills 
 of fare purporting to be Chinese, which were half 
 made up of French dishes. Chinese methods of 
 cooking and restaurant keeping can therefore be 
 seen to the best advantage where they are not on 
 exhibition, but pursued with the view of making 
 money in the regular course. There are at present 
 eight of these restaurants in New York. CHINA IN 
 XEW YORK The Delmonico's is Hong Ping Lo's, 
 where one can order a "spread" of forty courses 
 which it takes two days to eat and which can be 
 had for the sum of $50, and provides enough for a 
 party of six. Here is a meal for three at the Chi- 
 nese Delmonico's and the prices. We had tea, 
 samsu (rice brandy), two kinds of wine; a dish of 
 chow-chow-sucy, which is a pungent and palatable 
 conception of chicken livers and gizzards, fungi, 
 bamboo buds, bean sprouts, water chestnuts, and 
 all manner of savory spices stewed together a dish 
 of cuttlefish, one of ducks' breasts, chickens' wings, 
 pigeons' wings, a bowl of rice, and a mooncake by 
 way of sweets, and for this, with all the attendant 
 dishes of sauces and condiments, one pays $1.25. 
 A full square meal, deliciously cooked, dainty and 
 delicate, for about 40 cents apiece or less, because 
 there was enough on the dishes to have fed three or 
 four more people. This fact is becoming known, 
 and over five hundred Americans are regular cus- 
 tomers at the Celestial eating house. They do not 
 want them there, either, because they are too cheap. 
 They study matters closely and manage to get their 
 meals for about 10 cents, while the Chinese, who 
 are all high livers, spend their money freely. The 
 c/iefat Hong Ping Lo's is paid $100 a month and all 
 his expenses, which are enormous wages for China- 
 town. Like all chefs, he is superior, haughty and 
 somewhat capricious. The cooking is done on brick 
 furnaces and with hickory wood, and the half globes 
 of iron set into the blazing coals cook the food with 
 a rapidity that would startle an American cuisinier. 
 The guest has the right to enter the kitchen and see 
 if the cook is obeying orders, and if all the dishes 
 desired are made from proper materials. This priv- 
 ilege is eagerly utilized by Mongolian bon vivants, 
 who frequently make rows over the stove or kettle 
 that would petrify a French chef with amazement. 
 But few dishes are ready made. Raw materials are- 
 prepared for almost every possible order, and sel- 
 dom require more than five minutes in cooking. The 
 Chinese system of eating lends itself well to this 
 practice. All bulky foods are served and eaten in 
 pieces not larger than the end of the thumb. A 
 chicken's heart, for example, is cut into four slices, 
 the liver into eight, an onion is almost shredded, 
 
 CHI 
 
 while a pigeon breast is chopped into dice as small 
 as a pea. Another aid to quick cooking is high 
 heat. The almond eyed cook uses kiln dried hickory 
 or oak for fuel, and makes so hot a fire that water 
 over it explodes rather than boils, and oil becomes 
 a seething mass of liquid and vapor. A dish served 
 under this regime is never cold; usually it is red hot. 
 Dishes are never served "by portion." The guest 
 estimates his appetite and orders accordingly. If 
 not hungry he will order, for example, "five cents 
 perfumed pork;" if possessing a good appetite, 10; 
 if hungry, 15, and if famished, 20. The quantity 
 ordered is measured out almost mathematically. 
 Readers of the daily press know what strange 
 dishes and stranger customs mark these eating 
 houses. MENUS OF FIFTY COURSES Dinners that 
 begin with candied fruits, and close with delicate 
 soups and crystallized flowers; delicacies from 
 Corea, Japan, Tonquin and Manchooria; liqueurs 
 such as no chemist ever destilled. CHINA AT HOME- 
 The poorest family in China rarely sits down to 
 a meal of less than three varieties of hot cooked 
 food, and there are few more interesting sights than 
 watching the preparation of the family meal. The 
 boiler in which the staff of life in Southern China 
 rice is prepared is made of the thinnest cast iron, 
 so thin that a very slight tap is enough to fracture 
 it, heated over an earthenware vessel, containing a 
 few pieces of charcoal; and, directly the cooking is 
 completed, each piece of charcoal is carefully lifted 
 out, extinguised, and put away for future use. An 
 enterprising European firm once thougtit to super- 
 sede the "gimcrack" native pot by a good substantial 
 article of Birmingham make; but the enterprise 
 proved a failure. CHINESE DRIED PROVISIONS 
 About 150 different dried substances were im- 
 ported by them for use at the London exhibition. 
 At the stalls in Canton dried ducks may be seen 
 boned, flattened and so little changed by drying that 
 it is possible to tell what kind they are. Rats are 
 dried in like manner. There are castes and classes 
 in China and some of these edibles are considered as 
 belonging to the customary diet of the lower classes 
 only. The special forte of the Chinese anywhere 
 seems to be the utilization of all sorts of unpromis- 
 ing materials for making tasty dishes; they are 
 great also on sweets. PERFUMED ROAST PORK Is 
 one of the dainties of the Ciiinese cuisine. The pork 
 is roasted, and then hung in the smoke of various 
 aromatic herbs, which gives it a delicious flavor. 
 It is cut into small pieces that it may be readily 
 handled with the chopsticks. CHINA IN LONDON 
 Fascidious people will be relieved to hear that 
 neither puppy -dog nor cat figures on the bill of fare. 
 It would appear that a Chinese dinner is largely an 
 affair of samples. First come liors (fceuvrt minute 
 shreds of salad, bits of sausage, and such like dain- 
 ties. CHINESE SOUPS BIRDS-NEST CLEAR and 
 Fishmau ( ? Fishmaw) a la Tortue (thick) served 
 together in tiny slop basins. The former is made 
 from the nest of a species of swallow gathered be-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 fore the birds have soiled them. They are prepared 
 by soaking in water, thoroughly scoured to remove 
 the dirt, and cut up into thin strips these much re- 
 sembling geladne both in appearance and taste. 
 They are considered a great delicacy by the Chinese 
 and are very dear, the price being about $60 a. pound. 
 Made evidently with good chicken stock, theBird's 
 nest Soup was decidedly good. The Fishmaw bore 
 no faint resemblance to mock turtle, and it, too, was 
 palatable enough. PEKIN SALMON' BALLS Made 
 of dried salmon pounded with rice, fried in oil. 
 PULMO A fish dried. SHAOSHING HOT WINE or 
 SAMSHC This slightly alcoholic distillation from 
 rice the Chinese vin dupays is somewhat sweet, 
 is served hot from the kettle in little tea-cups, and 
 to the uneducated palate is simply an abomination. 
 As this beverage was sent round at two intervals of 
 the dinner, we tried hard at the second sampling to 
 discover something attractive about it, but alto- 
 gether failed. A fellow diner, after pronouncing it 
 to be "beastly stuff," thought the taste for it might 
 be acquired. But we fancy life is too short to 
 acquire a taste for Shaosing Wine. SHARKS' FINS 
 a LA PEKINOISE is a toothsome kind of curry with 
 rice. The fins of fishes and those of the shark in 
 particular are largely utilized in the Chinese cuisine. 
 They are smoked, pickled, or simply sun-dried, the 
 bony portion being removed. The cartilaginous 
 tissue is cut into thin strips, and either stewed with 
 eggs or cooked as above. CHINESE CREPINETTES 
 DE PORC Tasty morsels indeed and this entree 
 would do credit to any chef. Pork, by the way, is 
 the Chinaman's favorite meat. CHINESE SWEETS 
 Amongst these, fned and candied potato chips and 
 the nuts or seed of the Sacred Lotus "a la Helian- 
 thus," whatever that may mean. These nuts are 
 white and soft, not unlike filberts in flavor. BECH- 
 DE-MEK trepang, or sea-slug (see cut page) enters 
 largely into the composition of Chinese dishes. This 
 uninviting-looking creature is fished from the deep 
 sea and specially prepared for Celestial consump- 
 tion. It ranges from six to fifteen inches long, is 
 sometimes covered with spicules or prickles, and is 
 sometimes quite smooth and with or without teats 
 or feet. There are several varieties, and the finest 
 realize as much as $500 per ton in China where they 
 are regarded as a prime delicacy. After boiling, 
 the sea -slugs are cut open, gutted, and placed in 
 drying sheds. Thus prepared they are in consistency 
 and appearance not unlike indiarubber, and will 
 keep for a great length of time. Made into tiny- 
 pies or cooked with truffles and served withMadeira 
 sauce the sea-slug is by no means bad, and by a 
 stretch a long stretch of the imagination one 
 might suppose was eating turtle. CHINESE CHOP 
 SOLY a savory ragout, known as chop soly, is as 
 much the national dish of China as is the/V>/ an feu 
 of France or the olla podrida of Spain. Its main 
 components are pork, bacon, chicken, mushrooms, < 
 bamboo shoots, onions, and pepper. These arc the 
 characteristic ingredients; other incidental ones are 
 
 CHO 
 
 duck, beef, perfumed turnip, salted black beans, 
 sliced yam, peas, and string beans. No doubt a 
 curious and wonderful compound, hut one that may 
 be palatable withal. CHOP STICKS Before each 
 diner is placed a pair of ivory metal -tipped chop- 
 sticks, and for those who cannot manipulate them 
 the knives and forks of civilization. About the 
 table, on the occasion of the inaugural luncheon, 
 were distributed quaint and curious saucers, bowls, 
 etc., containing melon-seed, comfits, lotus-seeds, 
 cubes of sugar-cane, preserved ginger, cakes, etc. 
 CHINESE PROVERBS Ardent disciples of Epicurus 
 are to be found in the Flowery Land as well as in 
 the West, and that the kitchen is not undervalued 
 as a ministrant to human happiness may be gathered 
 from such Chinese proverbs as "Who eats well, 
 thinks well, .sleeps well, is well;" "The seat of the 
 soul is the pit of the stomach;" "No saint with an 
 empty stomach." 
 
 CHINESE MUTTON-Cold mutton cut in pieces, 
 stewed with butter, onion, chopped lettuce, green 
 peas, seasonings. Boiled rice for border; meat in 
 the center. 
 
 CHIP POTATOES Potatoes shaved as thin as 
 paper; fried dry in lard. 
 
 CHIPPED BEjiF-Dried and smoked beef shaved 
 extremely thin; CHIPPED BEEF IN C'KEAM-Shaved 
 dried beef parboiled, mixed in cream sauce. FRIZ- 
 ZLED BEEK Dried-beef shavings warmed in butter. 
 
 CHIPOLATA A garnish of Italian origin. 
 Consisting of small round sausages, chestnuts, 
 mushrooms, pieces of bacon, carrots and turnips in 
 a brown gra.w with sherry. Served with various 
 meats designated a la Cliipolata. 
 
 CHITTERLINGS The intestines of the pig are 
 prepared in France as follows: Having been thor- 
 oughly well cleaned, they are pickled for from 6 to 
 12 hours in a brine flavored with thyme, coriander 
 and bay leaves; taken out, and the pieces of meat 
 which adhere to them are removed, cut up fine, and, 
 with the smaller guts also cut into strips, are intro- 
 duced into a larger gut, which when filled is tied at 
 both ends. The whole is then cooked, great care 
 being taken to prevent the skin from bursting. They 
 are again placed in brine for three weeks, after 
 which they are either smoked or kept in vinegar. 
 Chitterlings are either broiled, fried or stewed to 
 prepare them for the table. 
 
 CHIVES A kind of green onion-tops, slender, 
 pipe-like and deep green; used in soups and sauces. 
 
 CHOCOLATE Is cocoa paste free from oil, or 
 nearly so, and pressed into cakes. Sweet chocolate 
 is sugar and cocoa pounded together, usually fla- 
 vored with vanilla, and pressed. ROYAL CREAM 
 CHOCOLATE A soft kind of chocolate in cans; a 
 beverage. CHOCOLATE CAKES Grated chocolate, 
 4oz. ; pistachio nuts, 4oz. ; little sugar, vanilla, clove 
 and cinnamon powdered; moistened with whites; 
 baked in patty pans; decorated with cream, almonds,
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 281 
 
 CHO 
 
 preserves. CHOCOLATE PunniNG-Like pound cake, 
 with chocolate mixed in; i Ib. butter, I Ib. sugar, 10 
 eggs, 2 07.. unsweetened chocolate, 14 oz. flour; 
 steamed; chocolate cream for sauce. CHOCOLATE 
 MERINGUE A chocolate custard baked; the \vhites 
 used to frost it over; eaten cold. CHOCOLATE JKLLY- 
 A substitute for jelly for layer cakes; chocolate, 
 sugar and thick cream boiled; used cold. COURONNE 
 AU CHOCOLAT A crown or border mould of choco- 
 late Bavarian, the interior filled with whipped cream, 
 garnished with crystalized fruits. SOUFFLE AU 
 CHOCOLAT Chocolate, sugar, flour, cream and yolks 
 beaten together; the whipped whites added; baked 
 in small cases; to be served immediately. CHOCO- 
 LATE SOUFFLE PUDDING Specialty of a hotel chef 
 in Germany. Made of 4 oz. each flour and sugar, 
 2 oz. each butter and chocolate, y 2 pint milk (a cup); 
 all made into a paste over the fire; cooked; vanilla 
 added, and 4 yolks; mixture beaten 10 minutes; 
 whites whipped stiff added last; baked; served soon 
 as done. CHOCOLATE TRANSPARENT IciNG-Choco- 
 late melted by heat in a little syrup and well worked 
 together; boiling syrup added; used hot. CHOCO- 
 LATE [CANDY] CREAMS Made of fondant sugar 
 cast in starch moulds, then dipped in melted choco- 
 late and cooled on glazed paper; glazed or varnished 
 with an alcoholic solution of gum benzoin. CHOCO- 
 COLATE WHIP A variety of whipped cream to 
 serve in cups, made of i qt. rich cream, i oz. un- 
 sweetened chocolate, 8 oz. sugar; scalded to boiling 
 point; cooled; 4 whites added; whipped, and cream 
 and froth served cold. CHOCOLATE MACAROONS 
 Best made of granulated sugar, i Ib. to 4 whites, 
 worked with a paddle as for icing; 3 oz. grated un- 
 sweetened chocolate stirred in; dropped on paper; 
 slack baked. CHOCOLATE MERINGUES Same as 
 macaroons baked on wetted paper on boards; no 
 bottom crust; two together like eggs. CHOCOLATE 
 PIPE ICING Chocolate melted by heat only poured 
 into white icing; used to decorate cakes on the plain 
 surface. CHOCOLATE A LA VOLTAIRE This bever- 
 age was first invented by Voltaire, who constantly 
 for his breakfast partook of half cafe an lait and 
 half chocolate, which were served at the same time 
 in separate vessels in a boiling state, and poured 
 from each slowly about 18 inches in elevation from 
 the cup, being thus rendered extremely light and 
 digestible. BAVAROIS AU CHOCOLAT See cremes. 
 CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM Dissolved chocolate in hot 
 milk added to sweetened cream; frozen. WHITE 
 CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM Roasted cocoa beans 
 bruised and steeped in hot milk, which is then xised 
 to flavor the cream or custard to be frozen. CHOCO- 
 LATE WITH WHIPPED CREAM "The refreshments 
 here, as in all Berlin cafes, aie most varied, a favorite 
 consom motion being milk-coffee iced, with whipped 
 cream on the top. Chocolate is served also with a 
 thick top of whipped cream, and a basket of pastry 
 is always placed on the table with the cup." 
 
 CHOPS All the slices of mutton that can be cut 
 on both sides of the spine bone from the neck to the 
 
 OHO 
 
 hip. The first choice are the rib chops, the shortened 
 ribs giving an advantageous shape; the loin chops 
 are even better eating; they are cut from the saddle 
 of mutton. ENGLISH MUTTON CHOPS Double 
 thickness; the meat of two with but one bone. 
 BARNSLEY CHOPS Restaurant specialty. A sample 
 sent to an editor who had heard of them weighing 
 i^ Ibs. "It is usual to boil them 5 minutes before 
 placing them on the grill, as, owing to their thick- 
 ness, they would otherwise be black outside before 
 being cooked in the middle. The plan is always to 
 have some chops ready-boiled, so that they may be 
 grilled off as ordered, and by this means they are 
 dished as soon as an ordinary chop by the time the 
 tea is made, or the chip pototoes ready for serving. 
 Although half-cooked, perhaps, the day before 
 grilling, a Barnsley chop is still fresh cooked, has 
 more gravy in it than the ordinary mutton chop, and 
 is more satisfying for a hungry customer." 
 
 CHOP HOUSES English chop houses are grow- 
 ing in favor in New York. In this case it is not due 
 to Anglomania, but to the solid comforts that can be 
 enjoyed at the regulation chop houses. In a certain 
 locality there are five of these little hostelries that 
 do an immense business all day long, and are open 
 most of the night. They do not serve oysters or 
 pastry of any sort. They sell chops, Welsh rare- 
 bits, steaks, egg on toast, and ales and wines. The 
 dishes are cooked with uncommon skill, and every- 
 thing is served with the utmost neatness. 
 
 CHOUX (Fr.) Cabbage. 
 
 CHOUX DE BRUXELLES (Fr.) Brussells 
 sprouts. 
 
 CHOUXFLEURS (Fr.) Cauliflower. 
 
 CHOUX PASTE The same paste of which the 
 familiar Boston cream puffs are made; it is called 
 pate a cfioux in French, is used in a few forms about 
 meats and in soups, and varied by having a slight 
 addition of sugar and vanilla it forms two or three 
 varieties of eclairs. (See cream puffs.) 
 
 CHOW-CHOW Mixed pickles thickened with 
 scalded mustard; can be bought cheapest by the keg 
 for hotel use, or made cheaply where there are plenty 
 of vegetables. 
 
 CHOWDER Fish chowder is an ancient dish 
 which has undergone alleged improvements. It is, 
 originally, a sailors' stew, consisting only of fat salt 
 pork, onions, potatoes, crackers, water, salt and pep- 
 per; stewed in a covered pot. 
 
 AN OLD RECIPE, DATED 1834. 
 
 To make a good chowder and have it quite nice, 
 Dispense with sweet marjoram parsley and spice; 
 Mace, pepper and salt are now wanted alone. 
 To make the stew eat well and stick to the bone, 
 Some pork is sliced thin and put into the pot; 
 Some say you must turn it, some sav vou must not; 
 And when it is brown, take it out of the fat, 
 And add it again when vou add this and that. 
 A layer of potatoes, sliced quarter inch thick. 
 Should be placed in the bottom to make it eat slick; 
 A layer of onions now over this place, 
 Then season with pepper and salt and some mace.
 
 282 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CHR 
 
 Split open your crackers and give them a soak. 
 In eating you'll find this the cream of the joke. 
 On top of all this, now comply with my wish, 
 And put, in large chunks, all your pieces of fish; 
 Then put on the pieces of pork you have fried 
 I mean those from which all the fat has been tried. 
 In seasoning I pray you, don't spare the cayenne; 
 'Tis this makes it fit to be eaten by men. 
 After adding these things in their reg'lar rotation, 
 You'll have a dish fit for the best of the nation. 
 JVote-Fish -broth and milk are to be added. CON- 
 GRESS CHOWDER "Every spring these parties of 
 Congressmen and officials used to go down the Po- 
 tomac on the old steamer Salem to the fishing grounds 
 and enjoy freshly caught shad, opened, nailed to 
 oaken boards, and cooked before large wood fires. 
 On one of these occasions Mr. Webster had obtained 
 from Boston some rock cod, crackers and salt pork, 
 and he made a chowder. He had a large kettle, and 
 having fried his scraps, he deposited the successive 
 layers of fish, crackers and potatoes and onions over 
 and over until there was no more room. Then pour- 
 ing in a half gallon of milk he rubbed his hands, ex- 
 claiming: "Now for the fire. As Mrs. Macbeth 
 said : ' If 'tis to be done when 'tis done, then 'tis 
 well 'twere done quickly.' " I quote from memory, 
 but I shall never forget his joyous expression of 
 countenance and the merry twinkle of his deep-set, 
 burning black eyes. The chowder was a success, 
 and so was a medicinal preparation of Santa Cruz 
 rum, brandy, a dash of arrack, loaf sugar, lemons 
 and strong iced tea. No one who ever drank 
 ' Marshfield Punch ' forgot its seductive excellence, 
 but some found to their sorrow that it had a fearful 
 kick." CHOWDER SOUP A fish soup made thinner 
 than the real chowder, which is a thick stew, is 
 served on fish days in many hotels. (See clams.) 
 
 CHRISTMAS PUDDING Boiled plum pud- 
 ding, made of : Ib. each bread-crumbs, suet, rai- 
 sins, currants, sugar; % Ib. each citron and almonds; 
 I lemon, i orange, rind and juice; J^ pint each 
 brandy and sherry; i nutmeg, little salt, 8 eggs, 
 cream enough to moisten. Mixed up a day before 
 cooking; put in bag or mould and boiled 10 hours. 
 Warm brandy poured over, set on fire and sent so 
 to table with hard sauce. 
 
 CHUCK RIBS Of beef, the coarser rib meat 
 nearest the neck. CHUCK STEAKS Shoulder steaks. 
 
 CHUMP An inferior cut of beef; the cut back 
 of the hip bone. 
 
 CHUM A sort of gizzard found in the white- 
 fish of the great lakes, which feeds on small shell- 
 fish; the chums are reserved by the salters and 
 esteemed a delicacy. 
 
 CHUTNEY An East Indian sweet pickle; can 
 be purchased at the fancy grocery stores. (See 
 Bengal, Indian?) "And mango chutney, another 
 and characteristically Singhalese condiment, among 
 the ingredients of which I think are fresh-grated 
 cocoanut and chillies carefully brayed together in a 
 mortar. This chutney is of a rich roseate hue; and 
 after eating it with his prawn curry, the epicure 
 feels like the Grand Turk." 
 
 CIX 
 
 CIDER The pure, unsophisticated juice of the 
 apple, fermented and matured to a certain degree. 
 Where the highest quality is desired, as for cham- 
 pagne cider, the fruit is crushed between granite 
 rollers to avoid contact with metal at anv stage, 
 and the juice extracted in a wooden press. The 
 cider is, of course, not fit for immediate consump- 
 tion, but requires a period varying from a few 
 months to even a year or two to mature. The dif- 
 ference as to appearance and flavor between the 
 crude apple-juice in the first stages of its fermenta- 
 tion and the thoroughly ripened liquor, is almost 
 marvellous. Taken from the wood, the well-ma- 
 tured cider, which has been stored for a period of 
 two years or more, loses every trace of rawness and 
 develops a full fine dry flavor, not unlike some of 
 the best Continental light wines. To judge of a 
 good sample of cider, it should have the bright and 
 clear appearance of a first-class sauterne, and show 
 no tendency, with climatic changes, to become 
 cloudy or viscous. It approaches wine in many 
 respects, and indeed bears favorable comparison 
 with any cheap champagne at one-fourth its price. 
 CIDER FOR COOKING Good cider is the proper 
 substitute for wine in all cases where that article is 
 called for in culinary operations; good cider, indeed, 
 is far better for cooking fish, soups, game, hams, 
 and sauces, than the heavily adulterated wines 
 which now flood the market. IMITATION" CIDER 
 Is manufactured in enormous quantities for the pur- 
 pose of a cheap drink to retail; the least objection- 
 able of it is made from dried apples. It costs the 
 retailers less than i cent a glass. (See Burr- Oak.) 
 
 CIGARETTES OF MEAT French caterers' 
 specialty. Finely minced chicken, or any other 
 kind of meat, seasoned with aromatic salt, rolled up 
 in paste, baked light color; long, slender. 
 
 CINNAMON AND CASSIA The government 
 chemists, investigating the adulterations of food, 
 say: "These spices are the barks of several species 
 of the genus cinnamoniim, the true cinnamon being 
 a native of Ceylon, where it is largely cultivated, 
 and the cassias being derived from several other 
 species growing in China, India and the East 
 Indies. Cinnamon as it reaches the market is very 
 thin, the outer and inner coats of the bark having 
 been removed. Cassia, on the other hand, is thick, 
 as it consists of the entire bark, and can be distin- 
 guished by its retaining its natural outer surface. 
 Cinnamon is by far more valuable than the cassia, 
 as there is a smaller supply and intrinsically it con- 
 tains a much greater proportion of volatile oil, and 
 that of higher and more delicate aroma. In con- 
 sequence cassia is largely substituted for cinnamon, 
 and, in fact, not a particle of ground cinnamon can 
 be found in the market It can be found in the 
 whole condition in good quality only in drug stores. 
 Cassia exists in many forms and qualities, and sells 
 at wholesale at from 7 to 40 cents a pound. That 
 known as Saigon is the best and that exported from 
 Batavia the poorest. Cassia buds also hold a small
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 283 
 
 CIS 
 
 place in the market The detection of the substitu- 
 tion of cassia for cinnamon, since the barks are of 
 trees of the same species, is more difficult than is 
 usually the case and may prove troublesome to a 
 novice. The presence of more woody fiber in the 
 latter with the aid of chemical analysis serves, how- 
 ever, as a reliable distinction. In the samples which 
 have come into our hands not a particle of material 
 labeled ground cinnamon proved to be anything 
 other than cassia. The spice millers appeared ; 
 however, to be satisfied to stop at this point and in 
 only one case was there addition of cheap stuff to 
 the cassia. When added there is no difficulty in 
 detecting it as has been done here and in Canada > 
 where peas, starch, ground shells and crackers have 
 been found in powder labeled both cassia and 
 cinnamon. The barks can, in most cases, and 
 especially the cinnamon, be used nearly as well .in 
 the whole condition, and should at least be so pur- 
 chased and then ground. A slight acquaintance 
 with the appearance of the different qualities will 
 teach one the proper selection to make." 
 
 CISCO A small fish, a fresh-water herring 
 abundant in the lakes of the northwest. The flesh 
 is white, parts in fillets from the spine like the flesh 
 of the brook trout, and is as free from small bones. 
 
 CITRON (Fr.) Lemon. 
 
 CITRON A large and coarse fruit of the lemon 
 family, produced in warm latitudes; used only in 
 the form of candied citron peel. This is boiled in 
 water to extract the bitterness; then boiled in syrup 
 and dried. 
 
 CITRON MELON A small green melon of the 
 gardens, the "apple-pie melon," used for cooking 
 and for preserving, and is boiled in flavored syrup 
 and dried in imitation of the West India peel. 
 
 CITRON CAKE One pound butter, i pound 
 sugar, twelve eggs, i nutmeg grated, 3 tablespoons 
 rose-water, I pound flour, i pound citron thinly 
 sliced. At least 20 different variations are made 
 with citron, in the different cake mixtures; either in 
 shreds mixed, or scattered over the surface of the 
 icing, or laid on top of cakes before baking; mixed 
 with other fruit for plum cakes or puddings, and in 
 compound ice creams. 
 
 CITRIC ACID One of the acids used in effer- 
 vescing powders, in making lemonade without 
 lemons; and in small quantities it is used in making 
 acid candies and boiling sugar. 
 
 CIVET (Fr.) A game stew. CIVET OK VEN- 
 ISON Pieces cut size of an egg, lightly fried with 
 cubes of salt pork; flour added, claret and broth; 
 stewed; small onions and mushrooms to finish. 
 CIVET DE CHEVKEUIL Same as the foregoing. 
 CIVET DE LIEVRE Stewed hare; in England called 
 jugged hare, and after the first frying with salt pork 
 the cooking is finished in a covered jar in the oven 
 with port wine and broth. CIVET DE LAFIN Civet 
 
 CLA 
 
 of rabbit, or rabbit stewed with wine, mushrooms, 
 onions; salt pork and herbs. 
 
 CLAMS The late Sam Ward could probably 
 have named a dozen different ways of cooking the 
 delicious bivalve for a clam is a bivalve and 
 would have named Chateau Yquem as the wine to 
 take with clams. The most esteemed kind in New 
 York is the "Little Neck" clam (so called from a 
 neck of land on Long Island Sound, where they 
 abound), a small round clam of a charming flesh 
 color. It is served on the half-shell, raw, as the first 
 course in dinners of the highest order. It is eaten 
 off the half -shell at every corner along the wharves 
 of New York. There are "soft-shell" clams, too, 
 and there are "razor-back clams," the secrets of the 
 cooking whereof are known unto the "Ichthyophag- 
 ous Club." "Clam chowder" would tickle the pal- 
 ate of a London alderman, and in the proper con- 
 fection thereof the great Daniel Webster excelled. 
 "Clam bakes" are an occasion of much festivity on 
 the New England coast; but Rhode Island has a 
 proud pre-eminence for these feasts. The large 
 kind called quahogs are only part eatable; that part, 
 which looks like a string, is used mostly in soups 
 and chowder, but is fried as well. SOFT-SHELL 
 CLAMS A large kind having a brittle crumbly shell, 
 not soft and eatable like a soft crab's; they are good 
 for fries and broils. FRIED CLAMS The same 
 ways as fried oysters. STEWED CLAMS Same as 
 oysters. SCALLOPED CLAMS They are usually 
 served in their shells, which are of a good shapafor 
 the purpose; scalded first, they are taken up, and a 
 thick white sauce is made of their liquor; the clams 
 put back in it, spoonfuls in shells breaded over the 
 top, and browned in the oven. Roasted in the 
 shells, and steamed, they are treated and served as 
 oysters. CLAM CHOWDER The same thing with 
 clams as fish chowder. TUNNISON CLAM CHOWDER- 
 A seaside hotel-keeper's specialty; a chowder con- 
 gaining tomatoes and herbs, such as thyme, marjo- 
 ram and parsley in addition to the regular ingre- 
 dients. "Sam Ward" used to say: "Don't put salt 
 pork in your clam chowder." CONEY ISLAND CLAM 
 CHOWDER Like the foregoing; a thick soup or thin 
 stew containing tomatoes, clams, onions, potatoes, 
 bay leaf, herbs, etc., started by frying the main in- 
 gredients together until half-cooked, then adding 
 broth and little wine. BOSTON CLAM CHOWDER 
 A- white, thick soup with potatoes, clams, etc. ; no 
 tomatoes. BAKED CHOWDER Sort of sea-pie; the 
 original pork, onions, potatoes, clams, crackers, 
 water, or milk, and seasonings without much liquor; 
 baked brown on top. CANNED CHOWDER It is put 
 up in cans; the plain variety of chowder, and only 
 needs to have crackers and more liquor added, or to- 
 mato soup added. CLAM FRITTERS (/)-The best 
 are made of chopped clams mixed in egg batter 
 dropped in hot lard by spoonfuls; served with a. cream 
 sauce. (a)-CIams whole, parboiled, dipped in batter 
 and fried. CLAM CROQUETTES Parboiled and 
 minced clams, with onions, mace, pepper, in a thick
 
 384 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CLA 
 
 sauce over the fire; thickened with yolks; cooled; 
 pieces roiled, breaded, fried. CLAM SOUPS Same 
 as oysters. 
 
 CLARET SAUCE For puddings; made with % 
 pint claret, 2 eggs, 2 oz. sugar, lemon rind, cinna- 
 mon; whisked over the fire till it thickens; not 
 boiled. 
 
 CLEAR SOUPS These are, or should be, meat- 
 essences clarified and strained from all solid par- 
 ticles and having morsels of meat, vegetables or 
 compounds in ornamental shapes added. They are 
 named in detail under their French name. (See con- 
 sommes.) 
 
 CLOVES The flower buds of the clove tree, 
 carefully picked and dried, constitute the spice 
 known by that name. Their valuable properties are 
 due to the volatile oil, which they contain, the best 
 having as much as 10 per cent. The removal of this 
 oil is so very easy that it is the commonest method 
 of deception to do so before grinding the spice and 
 to then dispose of it as pure. The addition of the 
 cheaper clove stems is also practiced, as they cost 
 but 6 cents when the buds cost 27. Pimento is 
 sometimes substituted in part or entirely, as it has a 
 clove-like flavor, but only 4 or 5 per cent, of volatile 
 oil. It is worth less than one-fifth the price of cloves- 
 Cloves should, if possible, be always purchased 
 whole, as they deteriorate less readily in that form. 
 
 CLOVE SYRUP For flavoring apple pies and 
 punches; made of 2 oz. crushed cloves, steeped in 
 ijis pts. water 3 days; water strained off, and boiled 
 with i Ib. sugar. 
 
 COBOURG PUDDING Hotel specialty. Made 
 of i Ib. sifted, white, stale bread crumbs, i Ib. but- 
 ter, i Ib. sugar, 8 eggs; mixed up like pound cake, 
 the crumbs instead of flour; steamed in a mould 2 
 hours; for sauce currant jelly, diluted with wine hot. 
 
 COCOA It is certain that the Spanish discoverers 
 Pizafro and Cortes learned its use in the Court of 
 Montezuma, and they doubtless brought a knowl- 
 edge of this nutritious nut into Europe. Cocoa (or 
 more properly, ca-cao) plant has great wax-like 
 leaves and resembles a small magnolia tree. Upon 
 its trunk and large limbs thereappear semi-annuaily 
 a large number of wart-like protuberances, about as 
 large as the smallest pineapple. At first they are 
 green, but when they get red the natives pick them 
 off, crush them in a rude machine, and take from 
 each a handful of seeds about the size and shape of 
 a Lima bean. This is the cocoa. When the beans 
 are thoroughly dried in the sun, they are shipped to 
 the market in gunny sacks, where the chocolate 
 manufacturer gets hold of them. The first operation 
 consists of carefully picking and sorting the beans, 
 the next in roasting them, after which they are 
 crushed and winnowed, which reduces them to the 
 familiar form of cocoa nibs. After the nibs have 
 been carefully ground through warm mills, a por- 
 tion of the cocoa-butter is extracted. This is valu- 
 
 COC 
 
 able for its medicinal qualities. When this first oily 
 extract is removed, the grinding of the cocoa residue 
 proceeds until it has a creamy consistency, which, 
 when cold, assumes the familiar form of pure cocoa. 
 This, however, is too rich in fatty matter for most 
 stomachs, and in order to prepare the well-known 
 cocoa extract, the cocoa is placed under enormous 
 pressure 1,200 Ibs. to the square inch. This ex- 
 presses all the remaining cocoa-butter. The dry 
 mass is then taken out, ground, reground, and sifted 
 through selves. This reduces the cocoa to a beauti- 
 fully fine impalpable powder that constitutes the 
 well-known "Cocoa Extract," which contains all 
 the virtues and aroma of the original nut without 
 its oleaginous drawbacks. 
 
 COCOAXUT The fruit of the cocoa- palm. 
 Since the introduction of the desiccated cocoanut the 
 uses have increased to an astonishing degree. 
 COCOANUT PIE OR PUDDING Fresh grated cocoa- 
 nut, butter, sugar, 4 oz. of each, 4 whites, J glass 
 brandy, I teaspoon orange-water; in a pastry crust. 
 COCOANUT GINGERBREAD Made of i cup molasses, 
 ^ cup sugar, % cup butter, 2^ cups flour. 4 oz. de- 
 siccated cocoanut, 3 teaspoons powder, ginger; 
 baked in cake pans. COCOANUT MACAROONS (/)- 
 Desiccated cocoanut, 8 oz. ; sugar, 2 oz.; 2 whites 
 stirred together; small drops on paper; light baked. 
 (2) Same way and weights as chocolate macaroonsj 
 cocoanut for chocolate. COCOANUT TAPIOCA PUD- 
 DING Tapioca, S oz. ; milk, i qt. ; sugar, 4 oz. ; eggs, 
 6; cocoanut, 4 oz. ; baked. COCOANUT SPONGE 
 CAKES Small sponge cakes the usual way with 
 little less flour and cocoanut in its place. COCOANUT 
 SMALL-CAKES Three cups sugar; i cup each but- 
 ter, milk, cocoanut; 2 eggs; 2 spoons powder; flour 
 to make dough to roll out; sugar on top before bak- 
 ing. COCOANUT MADELEINES Small pound cakes 
 dipped in diluted jam and rolled in grated cocoanut. 
 COCOANUT GENOISES Jelly cake with jelly on top 
 and cocoanut upon that. COCOANUT JELLY- ROLL 
 Outside of roll wetted with diluted jelly, roiled in 
 cocoanut mixed with sugar. IMPERIAL COCOANUT - 
 CAKE Like Savoy cake with cocoanut; made of 
 i Ib. each sugar and cocoanut; yolks to make stiff 
 paste; 9 whites, whipped firm, stirred in alternately 
 with 8 oz. flour; baked in long tins; sugar over. 
 COCOANUT ICE CREAM Desiccated or fresh, stirred 
 into the custard while hot, then frozen; best is fresh, 
 grated in pure cream; not boiled. It is mixed also 
 in banana ice-cream, in corn-starch pudding, in 
 blanc mange, in orange pies, etc., etc. 
 
 COCOAXUT OIL Used to adulterate butter 
 and lard. The first attempts to use it so failed on 
 account of its strong flavor; that is now removed 
 by injecting sprays of steam in the oil for severaj 
 hours, which results in deodorizing it. 
 
 COCOAXUT SHELLS Used largely in the 
 adulteration of ground pepper and other spices. The 
 government analysts cite an instance of a Xew York 
 firm having in a short time used and put upon the
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 285 
 
 coc 
 
 market more than 5,000 Ibs. of cocoarrjt shells in 
 their spices. 
 
 COCOTTE A cup or deep dish for cooking eggs 
 in. EGGS A LA COCOTTE Eggs in buttered cocotlf- 
 cups with a spoonful of cream on top, same as 
 shirred eggs except that they are steamed instead of 
 baked. 
 
 COCHINEAL Used for coloring; is an insect 
 which lives upon the stems of a plant in Mexico. 
 
 COCHON (Fr.) Pig- COCHON DE LAIT Suck- 
 ing pig. COCHON DE LAIT A LA CHIPOLATA Suck- 
 ing pig stuffed with chestnuts and sausage, served 
 with a Chipolata garnish. COCHON DE LAIT EN 
 GALANTINE A sucking pig boned, stuffed, braised, 
 served hot. PATE FROID DE COCHON DE LAIT A 
 cold raised pie of the English pork -pie order, made 
 with sucking pig. 
 
 COCKIE-LEEKIE SOUP-See Scottish Cookery. 
 
 COCKLES A small sort of scallops; used as a 
 substitute for oysters and shrimps in fish sauces; 
 eaten raw with vinegar and plainly boiled in salt 
 water. COCKLE PATTIES Same as oysters and 
 clams. "Cockles, which come in season this month, 
 are excellent pickled or in patties. We are told that 
 from Morecambe Bay alone, 20,000 worth of these 
 delicious little shell-fish are taken every year." 
 
 COCKSCOMBS Frequently mentioned and 
 commended for use in foreign recipes, and one of 
 the principal reliances for ornamental finishes to 
 elaborate hot dishes; may be obtained in bottles and 
 cans at the fancy grocery stores. They are the 
 combs and wattles of yearling chickens, blanched 
 peeled and stewed. 
 
 COD Is in season every month in the year; is at 
 its best in mid-winter. The head and shoulders are 
 considered the best parts and are generally boiled ; 
 the thinner parts being sliced and fried. CODFISH 
 STEWED WITH ONIONS Slices in butter-sauce with 
 chopped onions. COD A L'INDIENNE Slices of cod 
 baked with butter and seasonings and a curry sauce 
 poured over, made of 2 onions, i carrot and I apple, 
 sliced and fried in butter; flour, stock, anchovy and 
 curry added; parsley and lemon garnish. CURRIED 
 COD Slices of cod fried with onions, gravy added, 
 curry powder, cayenne, butter, cream, flour, salt. CA- 
 BILLAUD A LA HOLLANDAISE The thick part boiled, 
 served with Hollandaise sauce. CABILLAUD RE- 
 CREPI, SAUCE AUX HUITRES Crimped cod, boiled, 
 oyster sauce. CABILLAUD FAKCI AU FOUR Cod 
 stuffed and baked. CABILLAUD A LA PORTUGAISE 
 Codfish steaks floured and fried; tomato sauce fla- 
 vored with anchovy. CABILLAUD GRILLE A LA 
 CoLBERT-Steaks broiled, spread with maitred' hotel 
 butter; potato balls around. CABILLAUD A LA 
 CREME Boiled cod picked apart in flakes, in cream 
 sauce, dredged with parsley dust, or a la creme au 
 gratin, covered with bread-crumbs and browned. 
 CODFISH BAKED A LA XEW BEDFORD The fish 
 split and laid open, marinaded in oil and seasonings, 
 
 COF 
 
 drained, buttered, bread -crumbed, baked; wine or 
 cider and oyster liquor in the pan for sauce. COD- 
 FISH BOILED, FLEMISH SAUCE Fresh cod boiled 
 in salted water acidulated with vinegar, drained, 
 dished up on a folded napkin surrounded with pars- 
 ley leaves; sauce separate made of butter-sauce 
 yellow with mustard and egg yoiks. COD A LA 
 PROVENCALE Pieces of cold fish mingled with shal- 
 lots, chives, oil, pepper, salt, lemon peel, nutmeg; 
 baked, sprinkled with lemon juice. CODFISH CRO- 
 QUETTES Cold fish and oysters chopped together, 
 bread-crumbs, cream, pepper, salt; made up in balls, 
 breaded and fried. DRIED COD When the cod is 
 dried on the downs it is called dun-fish, from the 
 Gaelic root duin, a hill. If dried on the rocks, it 
 becomes rock-cod, or the klipp-fish of the Nor- 
 wegians. Among these the cod is called torsk in 
 English tusk, from the Gothic duerren, to dry. The 
 well-known Aberdeen fish, or French laberdan, is 
 from the Gaelic abar, the mouth, and dan, a river 
 a fish caught near the river-mouth. Heraldic de- 
 signs of ancient pattern bearing devices of fishes 
 are well known, and the king of the Danes has a 
 representation of the dried cod upon his coat-of- 
 arms. CORNED COD, LING or HADDOCK A fish 
 split open and laid in salt for three days, then dried 
 for two days, is excellent broiled. MORUE AU GRA- 
 TIN Salt cod in cream sauce, cheese, bread-crumbs 
 and butter on top; baked. BRANDADE DE MORUE 
 Salt cod in butter-sauce, oil and garlic; finely 
 chopped before stirring in the sauce. CODS SOUNDS- 
 Are to be bought at most provision stores; they are 
 in barrels, salted, and require 24 hours' soaking; 
 they are then boiled in milk and water, and when 
 tender dressed in all ways same as salt or fresh fish, 
 broiled, spread with forcemeat; fried in batter, etc. 
 COD ROE Is parboiled in salt water with vinegar, 
 cut in slices, dipped in batter and fried, or egged 
 and breaded. SMOKED COD ROE Breakfast relish; 
 soaked, sliced, fried a little, served on toast. COD- 
 FISH BALLS One-half boiled salt cod, one-half po- 
 tatoes, egg yolk and pepper to bind and season, run 
 through a meat grinder, balled up, rolled in flour; 
 fried. Codfish ball preparation r eady for use can 
 be bought in cans; needs only balling and frying; 
 will bear more potatoes added. CODFISH FRITTERS 
 Codfish ball mixture with more eggs added, little 
 butter and chopped parsley, dropped from spoon 
 into hot lard. WHAT THE COD EATS "The dredge 
 is considered usually by naturalists to be the best 
 implement with which to obtain information upon 
 deep-sea life, but Professor Baird says that the 
 stomach of the cod is the best of all dredges, for it 
 usually contains morsels of every sort of marine 
 resident within reach; while only a few weeks 
 since a theatre -programme was found in the stom- 
 ach of one. With a high-born contempt for the re- 
 quirements of trade, the cod feeds upon herring and 
 mackerel extensively, being also somewhat partial 
 to lobsters." 
 COFFEE QUOTATIONS For menus:
 
 286 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 COF 
 
 " Cofice! O coffee! Faith, it is surprising, 
 'Mid all the poets, good arid bad and worse, 
 Who've scribbled (Hock and China eulogizing) 
 Post and papyrus with 'immortal verse' 
 Melodiously similitudinizing 
 In Sapphics languid or Alcaics terse 
 No one, my little brown Arabian berry, 
 Hath sungV/y praises 'tis surprising, very!" 
 
 "In 1652 the first coffee-house was opened in New- 
 man's Court, Cornhill, London, by a Greek named 
 Pasquet. This man was the servant of an English 
 merchant named Edwards, who brought some coffee 
 with him from Smyrna, and whose house, when the 
 fact became known, was so thronged with friends 
 and visitors to taste the new beverage that, to relieve | 
 himself from annoyance, Edwards established his ! 
 servant in a coffee-house. Once tasted, coffee ' 
 sprang into popular and imperishable favor, and it 
 is curious to refer back to the opinions expressed 
 concerning it by wits and dignitaries at different 
 periods. "If you want to improve your understand- 
 ing, drink coffee," said Sydney Smith. Sir James 
 Mackintosh professed that he believed the difference 
 between one man and another was produced by the 
 quantity of coffee he drank. Pope was among con- 
 firmed coffee -drinkers, often calling up his servant 
 in the middle of the night to prepare a cup for him. 
 It was the custom in his day to grind and prepare 
 it upon the table, of which practice he gives the fol- 
 lowing details in verse: 
 
 For Io!the board with cups and spoons is crowned, 
 
 The berries crackle, and the mill turns round; 
 
 On shining altar of Japan they raise 
 
 The silver lamp; the nery spirits blaze. 
 
 From silver spouts the grateful liquors glide, 
 
 While China's earth receives the smoking tide. 
 
 At once they gratify their sense and taste, 
 
 And frequent cups prolong the rich repast. 
 
 Coffee! which makes the politician wise, 
 
 And see through all things with his half-shut eyes.' 
 
 "From the Spectator we learn who frequented the 
 houses, and the 'Grecian,' 'Squire's,' 'Searle's' have 
 become immortal. In Queen Anne's time, so it is 
 said, there were three thousand coffee-houses. It 
 was 'Will's' coffee-house, William Urwin being 
 the proprietor, of No. i Bow Street, which was 
 'sacred to polite letters.' Pope frequented Will's, 
 as did Steele. Tickell, Budgell, Prior, Gage and 
 Halifax went- to Button's coffee-house in Covent 
 Garden. Then, too, 'Garroway' was headquarters 
 for surgeons and apothecaries, as ' Child's ' was the 
 haunt of the physicians. Sir Isaac Newton was in 
 a brown study at the Grecian. Swift sought the 
 'St. James,' and it was at ' Lloyd's ' where the placid 
 Addison sometimes sipped his coffee. With the 
 coffee-houses sprang- in opposition the chocolate- 
 houses, the most celebrated of which were 'White's' 
 and 'The Cocoa Tree.' The taverns of the time of 
 Queen Anne were thronged. Good people cracked 
 their bottles there and dined and supped, and bullies 
 kicked the drawer and invented new oaths and 
 curses. 'The Devil and the Dragon,' 'The Rum- 
 mer,' 'Crown and Anchor,' 'The Mitre,' 'The 
 Cock," immortalized by Tennyson; 'The Boar's 
 
 COF 
 
 Head,' 'The Three Cranes,,' drew <-nany gallant 
 fellows together in the first half of the last century." 
 
 "Yes, the wine's a wayward child 
 This the cup that 'draws it mild.' 
 Deeply drink the stream divine; 
 Fill the cup, but not with wine 
 Potent port or fiery sherry. 
 For this milder cup of mine 
 Crush me Yemen's fragrant berry." 
 
 " It contains sufficient stimulating properties to re- 
 store an exhausted system without having the power 
 to intoxicate. Even in its early days an old writer 
 of the seventeenth century claims for the beverage 
 this virtue when he thus quaintly descants upon its 
 various merits: 'Surely it must needs be salutifer- 
 ous, because so many sagacious and the wittiest 
 sort of nations use it so much. But besides its ex- 
 siccant quality it tends to dry up the crudities of the 
 stomach, as also to comfort the brain, to fortifie the 
 sight with its steeme, and it is found already that 
 this coffee-drink has caused a greater sobriety 
 among the nations. For whereas formerly appren- 
 tices and clerks with others used to take their morn- 
 ing draft in ale, beer, or wine, which by the dizzi- 
 ness they cause in the head make many unfit for 
 businesse, they use now to play the good-fellowes 
 in this wakefull and civill -drink.' " "A compan- 
 ion once remarked to Voltaire that coffee 'was a 
 slow poison,' when the great wit and coffee-drinker 
 replied: 'It must be very slow, for I have been 
 drinking it for seventy years.' " COFFEE AND THE 
 KoRAN-"Coffee advanced rapidly from the Red Sea 
 and the Nile to Syria, and from Asia Minor to Con- 
 stantinople, where the first coffee-house was opened 
 in 1554, and soon called forth a number of rival es- 
 tablishments. But here also the zealots began to 
 murmur at the mosques being neglected for the at- 
 tractions of the ungodly coffee divans, and de- 
 claimed against it from the Koran, which positively 
 says that coaiis not of the number of things created 
 by God for good. Accordingly the mufti ordered 
 the coffee-houses to be closed; but his successor de- 
 claring coffee not to be coal, unless when over- 
 roasted, they were allowed tore-open, and ever since 
 the most pious mussulman drinks his coffee without 
 any scruple of conscience." FIRST NEW YORK 
 CAFE "When, in 1832, the physicians in the city 
 urged all to abstain from drinking beer and wine, 
 and to drink pure coffee, in order to avoid the epi- 
 demic of colera that was then raging, a large and 
 convenient coffee-house was opened by the famous 
 restaurateur George Washington Browne on the 
 first floor of what was known as the 'Auction Ho- 
 tel,' in \Vater Street. The place soon became known 
 as ' Browne's Coffee -House,' and was a most popu- 
 lar dining resort for merchants. On the south-east 
 corner of what are now Pine and William Streets 
 there stood from :8i2to 1830 the Bank Coffee-House, 
 kept by William Niblo." HINTS TO COFFEE- 
 DRINKERS "Raw coffee (the unroasted berry), if 
 kept in a dry place, improves with age. Those who 
 wish to enjoy coffee in perfection should have it
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK 
 
 287 
 
 COF 
 
 fresh roasted. Roasted coffee should be kept in an 
 air-tight vessel; the Viennese prefer a glass-bottle 
 to a canister. Coffee is very absorbent, and, accord- 
 ing to good authorities, should at no time come into 
 contact with metal. A mill, though convenient, is 
 not essential. The Turks do not grind their coffee, 
 but pound it in a mortar with wooden pestles. 
 Brillat-Savarin, the great French epicure, who tried 
 both pounded and ground coffee, preferred the 
 former. One ounce coffee to a pint 'of water makes 
 poor coffee; an ounce and a half to a pint makes 
 fairly good coffee; two ounces to a pint make excel- 
 lent coffee. Such coffee, mixed with half, or even 
 three parts, its bulk of boiling milk, forms an ideal 
 breakfast-food for body-workers and brain-work- 
 ers. A very small quantity without milk, taken 
 after a full meal, stimulates the stomach to the nec- 
 essary effort of digestion, and wards off the drowsi- 
 ness which often follows satiety. This neat infusion 
 is generally known as 'black' coffee. But genuine 
 coffee, when infused, is not very black. An excessive 
 black color is given by means of burnt sugar, and is 
 no sure indication of strength. It is a mistake to 
 suppose that costly and cumbersome machines are 
 necessary for making coffee. The Brazilians insist 
 that coffee-pots should be made of porcelain or 
 earthenware, not metal. Excellent coffee may be 
 made in a common jug provided with a strainer. 
 Warm the jug, put in the coffee, pour boiling water 
 on it, and the thing is done. Coffee must not be 
 boiled; let it gentlv simmer; violent ebullition dis- 
 sipates the aroma. If a quantity be wanted, good 
 coffee can be made some hours beforehand, even 
 overnight if necessary. For this purpose use any 
 large earthenware vessel ; heat it to receive the coffee ; 
 fill up with boiling water; protect the contents from 
 the air by a wet cloth over the lid or other covering. 
 When required, pour gently off the clear infusion 
 and heat it to the simmering point. Complicated 
 filters are unnecessary if your coffee be pure; if 
 mixed with chicory, dandelion root, roasted acorns, 
 roasted cabbage -stumps, or other forms of vegetable 
 offal, which on boiling disintegrate and yield a thick, 
 starchy, albuminous, sugary soup, you will then 
 want an ingenious filter. There are four distinct 
 kinds of coffee. The first and best is the Mocha, 
 the berries of which are nearly round and of a pale 
 yellow color. Next in quality comes the Matiniquef 
 with berries elongated and of a soft green hue. The 
 Rio ranks next, the berries being small and nearly 
 gray. Lastly come thejava, whose berries are large, 
 flat and pale gray. The Mocha is particularly de- 
 licious as a flavoring in creams and ices. It must be 
 roasted lightly and infused when quite hot; then the 
 essence of pure coffee is obtained. Equal portions 
 of Bourbon and Martinique make a good blend in 
 coffee. Java is inferior. Never blend coffee until 
 after roasting, because, their berries not being of 
 uniform size and dryness, the cooking of them will 
 be irregular. Do not roast over-much; when the 
 berry is very dark not black and has become 
 
 COL 
 
 moist, take it off the fire and cool it quickly. The 
 conditions of a good supply of coffee are a well- 
 developed roasted berry, roasted within forty-eight 
 hours of its consumption, ground immediately be- 
 fore using, and brewed for public supply in clean, 
 fresh pots every twenty or thirty minutes." 
 FRENCH COFFEE See cafe and drinks. TURKISH 
 COFFEE "To make Turkish coffee you need a mill, 
 which grinds the coffee to a very fine powder; when 
 the water is boiling, add a sufficiency of lump sagar 
 according to taste, and then, when the sugar is quite 
 dissolved, the coffee, in the proportion of a large 
 tablespoonf ul to each small cup. Stir round vigor- 
 ously, and let the boiling water rise once. The 
 coffee is then ready and should be served in a copper 
 or brass pot. Special verseuses (out-pourers) for the 
 purpose can be obtained and are very oanamental. 
 Turkish coffee is, of course, for postprandial use." 
 RUSSIAN COFFEE " Russian coffee is still more 
 easy to make. Fill your cup half full of coffee 
 ground as above, and pour the boiling water on it, 
 and sweeten to laste. When the coffee has been 
 properly ground, the grounds, far from being un- 
 pleasant, form a delicious cream at the bottom of 
 the cup, the dregs of which in this case are the best 
 part of the draught. COFFEE CREAM Bavarian 
 cream coffee-flavored, set with gelatine; made of 
 i pint custard, i oz. gelatine, % cup strong clear 
 coffee, i pint cream whipped; set in a mould on ice. 
 COFFEE CUSTARDS Yolks-of -egg custard flavored 
 with clear coffee; in cups; steamed, meringue'd when 
 cold. COFHEE ICE-CREAM Best made with pure 
 cream with sugar and strong clear coffee; custard 
 can be used, or part cream. ICED COFFEE A popu- 
 lar beverage consisting of coffee with cream and 
 sugar the ordinary way, with shaved ice added; 
 shaken up; imbibed through a straw. COFFEE 
 CAKES Meaning cakes to eat with coffee, are kinds 
 of sweetened bread; some are flat-bread cakes with 
 sugar and cinnamon on the surface; others are buns 
 or rusks. (See Caf6.) 
 
 COINGS (Fr.) Quincies. 
 
 COLBERT . SAUCE Brown; made of i pint 
 espagnole, 2 tablespoons extract of beef, pepper, 
 parsley, lemon juice, 6 oz. butter beaten in by por- 
 tions, not boiled. 
 
 COLBERT SOUP Endive soup with eggs, 
 made of shredded hearts of endive, blanched, stewed 
 in butter, stock added, yolks and cream to thicken, 
 a poached egg served in each plate. 
 
 COLD STORAGE Since artificial ice-making 
 has become general, some hotels employ the freez- 
 ing process itself instead of ice for their cold rooms. 
 The process consists of the rapid evaporation of 
 ammonia by heat; the vapor passing through pipes 
 produces intense cold ; the pipes being laid in brine 
 the latter becomes colder than ice, and being cir- 
 culated through other pipes along the walls of store 
 rooms, meat rooms, etc., the cold brine keeps them 
 at a freezing temperature, so that meat remains
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 COL 
 
 frozen in them for weeks, and carafes of water are 
 frozen more or less as wanted. This system is 
 called cold storage. It is employed on board the 
 ocean steamships, and by its means fresh meat is 
 kept frozen during the voyage from Australia or 
 New Zealand. The ammonia employed in the proc- 
 ess is condenced and used again with but little loss. 
 In most towns now there are cold-storage accom- 
 modations for hire to those who need, yet have not 
 business or room enough to put in their own plant. 
 
 COLLATION Lunch. 
 
 COLLEGE PUDDING A plum-pudding mix- 
 ture made up into balls size of an egg, floured, fried 
 and served with wine sauce. COLLEGE PUDDING 
 BAKED Made of 6 oz. bread-crumbs, 3 oz. sugar, 4 
 eggs, % cup milk, 6 oz. each suet, currants, citron, 
 little brandy and nutmeg. 
 
 . COLORINGS RED Cochineal, i oz., pounded 
 fine in a mortar, ^ pt. water, % oz. salts of worm- 
 wood; boiled i minute; % oz. cream tartar, little 
 powdered alum, strained, little sugar added to keep 
 it. CHERRY RED Dutch grappe madder, 2 oz., 
 tied in a cloth and beaten in a mortar, with water, 
 4 pts. ; boiled; alum and oil of tartar added, let settle, 
 wash the sediment, dry it, dissolve in alcohol. 
 BEET RED Juice of blood beets for ices and jellies, 
 extracted by pouring boiling water acidulated, over 
 slices. BLUE (/)-Indigo in warm water for some 
 uses; for candy, indigo pounded fine is dissolved in 
 gin or alcohol. (a)-Prussian or Antwerp blue 
 ground fine and mixed with water. YELLOW -Tur- 
 meric or saffron dissolved in water or alcohol; tinc- 
 ture of saffron is used for coloring ices and syrups. 
 Barberry root with alum and cream tartar makes a 
 yellow for candies. GREEN (/) Fustic, i oz. ; tur- 
 meric, % oz. ; alum and cream tartar each 2 drachms, 
 water, % pt.; boiled; tartar added first, alum later. 
 This makes bright yellow; indigo dissolved in alco- 
 hol added to make green. (2}-Green is made by 
 boiling spinach i minute, then squeezing out the 
 juice by twisting in strong towel; parsley answers 
 the same purpose; both may be used to make a 
 lighter green by pounding them raw in a marble 
 mortar and not boiling. BROWN Burnt sugar or 
 caramel; the sugar is burnt till it smokes and looks 
 like tar, -water added and boiled. Many shades in 
 soups and jellies, from yellow to orange, light and 
 dark brown, and port wine color and purple, are 
 obtained with caramel and its admixture with coch- 
 ineal. See aniline, also annato, 
 
 COLORINGS, DELETERIOUS A Philadel- 
 phia society for the prevention of adulteration, has 
 sent out a list of 35 poisonous colorings, with their 
 common and also their chemical names, warning 
 bakers and confectioners not to use them. They 
 are mostly the colors found in the paint shops, and 
 are mineral compounds. The principal need of a 
 coloring seems to be for a yellow, to imitate the 
 richness of yolk of eggs in buns and cakes, which 
 contain no eggs. " Notwithstanding all that has 
 been published relative to the poisonous character 
 
 COM 
 
 of chrome yellow as a coloring matter for confec- 
 tionery, buns, cakes, and pastry, President Amer- 
 ling states that a large number of bakers are still 
 using the stuff. Yesterday he visited five bakeries, 
 each of which does a large business, and in every 
 case chrome yellow was found in use. The pro- 
 prietor of one of these, a prominent up-town baker, 
 was exceedingly indignant at the appearance of 
 President Amerling, and stoutly denied using the 
 poison. ' Well, what do you use ? ' asked the presi- 
 dent. ' Why, canary yellow, and that's not poison. 
 I'm not afraid to eat it myself.' The matter, when 
 shown, proved to be nothing else than chrome yel- 
 low. The baker was cautioned not to use it again 
 under pain of prosecution. He had been reported 
 to the society by a gentleman who stated in a letter 
 that his own family and a number of neighbors had 
 been made sick by eating buns purchased at his 
 bakery." 
 
 COLLOPS (/)-Minced beef; same as beef saus- 
 age meat; same as Hamburg steak, except variations 
 in the seasonings. (2) - Beefsteaks of small size. 
 (j)-A slice of meat of any kind is called a collop in 
 some places; synonymous with steak. 
 
 COLUMN CUTTERS- Tubular cutters of the 
 apple -corer shape are so called; they are put up in 
 sets or nests, running from the size of macaroni to an 
 inch diameter. L T sed for cutting cork shapes of veg- 
 etables for chartreuses, pipe shapes for consommes, 
 Cores and lozenges for potatoes to fry, to serve with 
 fish, etc., and for stamping out round slices of beets 
 for decorating salads, egg custards for soups, and 
 the like. 
 
 COMMUTATION TICKETS At restaurants; 
 reduced rate tickets. 
 
 COMPOTES Fruits stewed in syrup so as to 
 keep the original shape, not broken. COMPOTE OF 
 PEARS Pears pared, but not divided, simmered in 
 porcelain kettle with water to cover; dipped out, 
 syrup made of i Ib. sugar to about 8 pears, little 
 cinnamon, glass of sherry added to the pear liquor, 
 boiled down, pears in it; served cold. COMPOTE 
 DE ABRICOTS Apricots stewed in syrup. COM- 
 POTE DE PRUNES REINE-CLAUDE Greengage 
 plums boiled in syrup. COMPOTE DE PECUES A LA 
 CONDE Peaches boiled in syrup and served on a 
 .bed of rice, sweetened, red currant jelly diluted 
 poured over. The best qualities of California canned 
 fruits in syrup are fine compotes ready made. COM - 
 POTE DE FRUITS A LA NoRMANDE Pear butter; 
 made by stewing pears in cider or perry. COMPOTE 
 D'ORANGES Quarters of oranges boiled in syrup; 
 served hot with a border or cassolette of rice flour, 
 or cold with cake. COMPOTE DE MAKRONS Chest- 
 nuts boiled in syrup with lemon juice; served on 
 oval pieces of fried bread dipped in diluted jelly. 
 COMPOTE OF PEACHES A LA CONDE Peaches in 
 halves in syrup; rice made like pudding, part cooked 
 as peach -shaped croquettes, remainder a bed to 
 build the peaches upon; ornamented with candied 
 fruits and syrup over the peaches and around the
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 289 
 
 COM 
 
 croquette border. POMMES A LA PARISIENNE A- 
 compote of apples in quarters, stewed with butter 
 in the syrup; served on toasted rusks (brioche), red 
 currant jelly in the syrup poured over all. ICED 
 COMPOTE OF STRAWBERRIES Fresh berries made 
 ice-cold on ice; syrup and sauterne wine mixed and 
 frozen and spread over the berries. 
 
 CO MPOTIERE Crockery -ware fruit stand; a 
 tall bowl. 
 
 COMUS The god of revelry; sometimes named 
 in connection with feasting. The luxuries of the 
 table are called the gifts of Comus. 
 
 COMFITS That class of candies like sugared 
 almonds, having a center covered by successive 
 coats of sugar. Comfits mentioned in recipes to 
 strew over cakes are extremely small, like seeds of 
 various colors. 
 
 CONGER EEL A very large species, as much 
 larger than the common eel as a fowl is larger than 
 a partridge. A prejudice against eating it exists in 
 some localities, as is the case with our catfish, but 
 not everywhere. CONGER FOR BREAKFAST The 
 bone taken out without dividing the fish; salt and 
 pepper rubbed in, the meat side laid open; the fish 
 then fastened on a wall in the shade to cure for two 
 days; pieces cut off, broiled and buttered. CONGER 
 EEL STEWED In brown gravy, or dressed in steaks 
 or cutlets, is by no means contemptible eating; it is 
 also good roasted, or baked, made into a soup, or 
 curried. CONGER SOUP The head and shoulders of 
 a large conger is covered with cold water, sweet 
 herbs, onion, piece of lemon peel; boiled ij^ hours; 
 skimmed free from the oil of the fish; milk, flour and 
 butter thickening, and green peas added, and the fish 
 in pieces. "The conger eel good eating as soup? 
 Well, I should just think so. You ask the first 
 Guernsey man you come across Guernsey man or 
 Guernsey woman, Jersey man or Jersey woman (as 
 Mrs. Langtry, for instance) what is the pride and 
 glory of his or her island. ' Why, conger-eel soup,' 
 will be the answer And so it is. The first time I 
 tasted it was at a ' toney ' dinner at the Governor of 
 Guernsey's house. In fact, it is the national dish of 
 Sarnia. The Elizabeth College boys are notoriously 
 so fond of it that they go by the name of 'College 
 Congers,' the cause of an eternal feud and much 
 bloodshed between them and the 'cads,' or town boys. 
 The soup is made principally with milk, but you 
 have the proper recipe." 
 
 CONGRESS CAKE Paris specialty. Made of 
 12 oz. sugar, 8 oz. butter, 9 oz. flour and starch 
 (about half and half), 6 yolks; butter, yolks and half 
 the sugar creamed together; re^t of sugar added, 
 and flour and flavorings; baked in a border moukU 
 center filled with jelly; served warm. 
 
 CONSOMMES Clear soups. Made by prepar- 
 ing a soup as to strength and flavorings complete, 
 '.nit generally without any thickening ingredients; 
 straining it, adding chopped lean raw meat and 
 white of eggs, and boiling, then straining it clear 
 
 CON 
 
 and transparent through a jelly bag or cloth. CON- 
 SOMME A L'IMPERATRICE Clear soup with a 
 poached egg in the plate; named for the Empress 
 Josephine. CONSOMME AUX CEuFs POCHES An- 
 other name for the foregoing. " The story runs tha 
 the Empress Josephine returned after one of the im- 
 perial hunts at Fountainebleau very tired and had 
 just time to change her dress for dinner. ' The only 
 thing I could eat at dinner,' she exclaimed, ' would 
 be a new-laid egg.' One of the ladies hearing this 
 hurried to General R., who was the superintendent 
 of the palace, and transmitted her mistress's wish to 
 him. The general immediately communicated with 
 the chef, who saw no better way of gratifving the 
 Empress's wish than by introducing poached eggs 
 into the clear soup. All the menus were written 
 'Potage Consomme ' the only addition to make was 
 'a I' Imperatrice.' The guests wondered, but the 
 Empress was pleased, and the new soup had its 
 days." CONSOMME A LA COLBERT Clear soup with 
 shreds of lettuce, celery, Jerusalem artichokes and 
 small onions. CONSOMME A LA PRINCE DE GALLES- 
 Clear soup with small diamond shapes of quenelle 
 forcemeat inclosing pieces of chicken meat, royale 
 custards in same shapes, and asparagus points. 
 CONSOMME AUX HARICOTS VERTS Clear soup with 
 shreds of string beans cooked green and kept separ- 
 ate till served. CONSOMME AUX PATES D'ITALIE - 
 Clear soup with any of the various Italian pastes, 
 but preferably with the alphabet or similar fancy 
 pastes. CONSOMME A LA JERUSALEM Clear soup 
 with balls like large peas scooped out of Jerusalem 
 artichokes. CONSOMME A LA MONTE CARLO 
 French specialty. With fancy cutters vegetables 
 and truffles are cut out to imitate clubs, diamonds, 
 spades and hearts; chicken forcemeat dotted with 
 truffles make dominoes; pipe macaroni stuffed with 
 pure of green peas and forcemeat, cut across, forms 
 rings. These are all served in the plates of clear 
 soup. CONSOMME NATIONAL French specialty. 
 Vegetables reduced to a savory mince inclosed in 
 small egg shapes of chicken forcemeat; served in a 
 plate of clear soup ; the vegetables used are 2 carrots, 
 2 leeks, i turnip, cut in dice and fried in butter, then 
 stewed in consomme to glaze. CONSOMME A LA 
 DUCHESSE A clear soup slightly thickened with 
 starch, which becomes clear again by slow simmer- 
 ing; then strips of white meat added. CONSOMME 
 A LA NIVERNAISE Clear soup with fancy Italian 
 pastes, quenelles and vegetables stamped in shapes. 
 CONSOMME AU VERMicELLi-Clear soup with vermi- 
 celli, the latter cooked and kept separate till served. 
 CONSOMME AU TAPIOCA Clear soup with tapioca 
 previously washed and steeped in cold water, 
 drained and simmered in the consomme until trans- 
 parent. CONSOMME A LA ROYALE Clear light- 
 brown soup containing squares of egg custard; this 
 is made by mixing a very little broth with some eggs 
 as if for an omelet, 5 yolks and i whole egg prefer- 
 able to all eggs, then cooking it in a buttered pan 
 set in another pan of boiling water. If subjected to
 
 290 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 cox 
 
 too much heat and rapid boiling, the custard be- 
 comes spongy and cannot be cut to shape. When 
 done, the custard is turned out and cut diamond- 
 wise and a few pieces served in each plate. The 
 changes are to make some all yolk, some all while, 
 and some white colored with beet juice, some green 
 colored with spinach juice or parsley. CONSOMME 
 DESCLiGNAC-Clear soup containing sherry and with 
 rcyale custards stamped out in round lozenge shapes 
 with shapes of carrot and turnip to match. CON- 
 SOMME A L'ANDALOUSE Clear soup with vegetable 8 
 cut in thin rounds with a column cutter; also a to" 
 mato omelet mixture of i pint tomato sauce mixed 
 with 12 yolks and 2 whole eggs steamed, and a piece 
 of it in each soup plate. The tomato mixture to be 
 either steamed in thimble moulds or cut in diamond 5 
 out of large pan. CONSOMME A LA MACEDOINE IIE 
 LEGUMES Clear soup with all sorts of different- 
 colored vegetables cut into very small dice. CON- 
 SOMME A LA BOURDALOUE Clear chicken broth 
 served with squares of white chicken meat and 
 French peas in the plates; also in each one a thimble 
 mould of rice, seasoned and bound with yolks and 
 colored like lobster; steamed. CONSOMME DE Gi- 
 BIER Clear, dark and strong essence of game soup, 
 with small cubes of breast of grouse and balls of 
 rabbit forcemeat made green with parsley and 
 poached separately. CONSOMME A LA MONTMOR- 
 ENCY Clear chicken broth with chicken-forcemeat 
 balls and squares of lasagnes paste in the plates, 
 and also cigarettes of forcemeat rolled up in blanched' 
 lettuces; braised. CONSOMME SAGOU LIE Clear 
 soup with washed sago simmered in it; about 2 oz. 
 to a gallon. CONSOMME AUX POINTES D'ASPERGKS 
 ET CEuFS POCHES Clear soup with a poached egg 
 and spoonful of green-cooked asparagus heads in 
 each plate. CONSOMME A LA MAGENTA Clear soup 
 colored slightly with red tomato juice, an assortment 
 of vegetables cut as for macedoine; chopped celery- 
 leaves, chervil and parsley. CONSOMME A LA ME- 
 DICIS A white soup slightly thickened with flour 
 and butter;. a poached egg in each plate; also, a fried 
 croustade filled with puree of chicken (like a patty) 
 served separately. CONSOMME A LA RACHEL A 
 cream-colored soup thickened with flour and butter, 
 yolks and cream; little custards of chicken forcemeat 
 prepared as for royale, green peas and small cut 
 string beans in the plates. CONSOMME A LA KURSEL- 
 Clear soup with spring vegetables, peas, asparagus- 
 heads and shred lettuce. CONSOMME PRINTANIERE- 
 Spring soup; clear with early summer vegetables, 
 especially peas and asparagus-heads. CONSOMME 
 PRINTANIERE ROYALE Printaniere with royale 
 custards in it besides the vegetables. CONSOMME 
 A LA CHATELAINE Clear soup with royale custards, 
 made of % pint pure of white or ions in 10 yolks 
 and 2 eggs and spoonful of cream and seasonings ; 
 also, peas and cut string beans. CONSOMME A LA 
 PALESTINE Chicken broth with stewed Jerusalem 
 artichokes in slices; also some rice cooked separ- 
 ately in distinct grains and mixed in. CONSOMME 
 
 COX 
 
 A LA XAPOLITAINE Clear, strong game broth, with 
 stewed celery in small squares, game forcemeat 
 quenelles, macaroni in inch lengths, and shapes of 
 fried bread. CONSOMME AUX PETITS NAVETS A 
 BRUN Clear soup with brown-fried cubes of turnip. 
 CONSOMME AUX QUENELLES Clear soup with small 
 balls of chicken meat finely pounded, mixed with 
 cream, yolks, finely minced parsley, seasonings, 
 poached separately. CONSOMME AUX PROFITE- 
 ROLLES Clear soup with light balls of choux paste 
 in the plates. (See choux). These are boiled in broth 
 with the steam shut in if to be served immediately, 
 for they rise and then fall; but, if not, are baked in 
 a very slack oven till dry, when they remain light. 
 The paste for these has a proportion of grated cheese 
 mixed in. CONSOMME A LA XAVIER Pron. Hevier. 
 Clear soup with shred lettuce or cabbage and other 
 vegetables, and pea-shaped drops of paste made by 
 dripping egg-batter through a colander into it while 
 boiling. CONSOMME JULIENNE Clear brandy-col- 
 ored soup with vari-colored vegetables, which are 
 cut into shreds, like straws, and half cooked in but- 
 ter and sugar before being added to it. Brillat- 
 Savarin savs that he taught a Xew York restaurant- 
 keeper named Julien how to change his ordinary 
 / -l-au-feu into this artistic soup, and that it had a 
 great run as Julien's soup. CONSOMME A LA BRU- 
 NOISE Clear brown soup with vari-colored vegeta- 
 bles cut in very small squares, and green peas. 
 CONSOMME A LA PAYSANNE Peasant's soup. Clear 
 broth with various vegetables cut small, and shred 
 lettuce. CONSOMME A LA JARDINIERE Gardener's 
 soup, perhaps flowery soup. Clear soup with vari- 
 colored vegetables stamped in small fancy shapes. 
 There are jardiniere cutters to be bought which per- 
 form this operation speedily enough. CONSOMME 
 A LA CHIFFONADE Clear soup, like paysanne, with 
 shred lettuce and peas. CONSOMME A LA SEVIGNE 
 Clear chicken broth having royale custards consist- 
 ing of pounded chicken meat and eggs, and green 
 peas and small cut green string beans in the plates. 
 CONSOMMK A LA TALMA Clear soup with royale 
 custards made of almond puree, or milk mixed with 
 eggs, and boiled rice in the plates. CONSOMME AUX 
 TROIS RACIXES Clear soup with cubes of carrots, 
 turnips and celery. CONSOMME AU MACARONI 
 Clear brown soup with macaroni boiled separately, 
 cut in rings and added to the consomme when served 
 not to dull its clearness by being stirred about in it, 
 CONSOMME AUX CROUTES Clear soup with small 
 thin triangles of bread, fried in butter, in the plates. 
 CONSOMME A LA CAREME Clear soup, brandy- 
 color, containing small round lozenge-shapes of 
 vegetables, lettuce, sorrel, chervil leaves, asparagus 
 points, little sugar with the seasonings, and small 
 shapes of bread toasted in the oven. CONSOMME AU 
 Riz Clear soup with a little rice in large distinct 
 grains, washed after cooking, then put in the soup. 
 CONSOMME AUX PETITS Pois Clear soup with very 
 
 i green peas June peas or French. (See pelages and 
 
 i soups.)
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 291 
 
 COO 
 
 COON The racoon; American small wild animal ; 
 weight, ioto2olbs.; is considered good game, but 
 generally only plainly baked or stewed country 
 fashion. 
 
 COQ DE BRUYERE (Fr.) Black-game; a spe- 
 cies of grouse. 
 
 COQUILLES (Fr.) Shells. COQUILLE DE Ho- 
 MARD Scalloped lobster served in the shell. CO- 
 QUILLES DE MOULES Mussels scalloped in scallop- 
 shells. COQUILLES DE HOMARD A LA CREME 
 French specialty. The meat of a lobster cut in dice 
 with the third of its volume of mushrooms; Becha- 
 mel sauce with the mushroom liquor, fish essence, 
 cayenne; the lobster and mushrooms mixed in the 
 sauce, put in scallop shells, bread crumbs on top, 
 and butter to moisten ; baked. COQUILLES OF SAL- 
 MON A L'ITALIENNE Small slices of salmon with 
 sauce, baked in silver scallop-shells, bread crumbs 
 on top scalloped salmon steaks. 
 
 CORBEILLE (Fr.) Basket. CORBEILLES DE 
 FRUITS Baskets of fruit. CORBEILLES D'AMAN- 
 DES PRALINEES Baskets built of sugared almonds. 
 
 CORDIAL An alcoholic syrup of any flavor; a 
 liqueur is flavored spirit without syrup. 
 
 CORDON BLEU A cook of he first order; 
 generally, however, applied to first-class female 
 cooks. The name has reference to the order of the 
 blue ribbon instituted by one of the French kings. 
 "King Louis XV had among his numerous failings 
 a supreme contempt for female cooks and never 
 would admit that they could cook a dinner worthy 
 of being eaten by him, until one day, when he was 
 dining with the celebrated Madame du Barry and 
 was served successively with dishes of the most 
 recherche description admirably cooked, he was so 
 overcome at such elaborate and perfect fare that he 
 asked to see the cook, but on hearing that all this 
 was the handicraft of a women he felt quite dis- 
 gusted; however, soon recovering his serenity he 
 consented, and, at the request of his mistress, he 
 enobled the cook by conferring upon her the ' Cor 
 don Bleu," (the order of knighthood of the Saint 
 Esprit, instituted by Henry III), which from that 
 time has been the recognized definition of a skillful 
 female cook. In France, when you are dining with 
 friends and admire the fare, it is quite the correct 
 thing to say to the mistress of the house: ' Madame, 
 you have a veritable cordon bleu ! " 
 
 CORKAGE A charge made for opening bottles 
 of wine, service, use of glasses, etc., additional, to 
 the price of the wine. 
 
 CORN In the United States it is Indian corn or 
 maize; in England corn means all grains that are 
 used for making bread; wheat, oats, barley and rye 
 are all corn over there, and Indian corn is maize. 
 GREEN CORN Gathered when in the milk state it 
 is more succulent than even the tenderest green 
 peas; it is never so thoroughly a luxury as when 
 eaten off the cob, as is the custom; the cars should 
 
 COR 
 
 be prepared by having one row of grains cut away, 
 it is then boiled about 20 minutes in salted water; 
 served in the folds of a napkin, eaten with butter. 
 CUT-OFF CORN The tender ears cooked and the 
 grains cut off and seasoned with salt and butter, 
 served in dishes same as peas. GREEN COKN PUD- 
 DING Cut-off corn mixed with butter, milk, salt, 
 pepper, and yolks enough to make it a soft custard 
 when baked; eaten as a vegetable. GRATED CORN 
 PUDDING The green ears grated raw and the palp 
 made up with cream, eggs and butter into a custard- 
 like preparation; either baked or cooked in a farina 
 kettle. GREEN CORN FRITTERS Cut-off corn 
 mixed with flour, egg and butter, dropped by spoon- 
 fuls into hot lard, fried brown. CORN MOCK 
 OYSTERS Raw corn shaved off the cob, or grated, 
 mixed with salt, pepper, eggs, little flour; fried on 
 both sides like eggs, singly; breakfast dish. CORN 
 MEAL Ground corn, not corn flour; it makes lighter 
 and more palatable bread when ground coarse. 
 CORN BREAD A plain kind is generally used as a 
 dinner bread; made of only meal, water and salt, 
 made up soft, baked in spoonful lumps on a baking 
 pan. CORN HOE CAKE Corn bannocks, like 
 Scotch barley bannocks, baked thin on a girdle. 
 CORN LIGHT BBEAD Two-thirds meal, % wheat 
 flour, little sugar and shortening, powder and milk, 
 or buttermilk and soda: baked in a pan. CORN 
 EGG BREAD Rich like unsweetened cake, with 
 scalded meal, salt, lard, eggs, milk, little sugar, 
 powder; baked in pan or mould. CORN BATTER 
 CAKES Same mixture as foregoing made thinner, 
 poured by spoonfuls on a. hot griddle; varied by 
 mixing a proportion of wheat flour with the corn 
 meal. CORN-AND-RYE BREAD Mixture of the 
 two kinds of meal with salt, molasses, and powder 
 or yeast. CORN MEAL MUSH Porridge of meal 
 boiled in water. CORN MEAL GRUEL Mush made 
 thin. FRIED MUSH Porridge allowed to get cold, 
 cut in blocks, dipped in egg and cracker dust, fried 
 in hot lard; breakfast dish. Is also rolled in flour 
 and saute in a little butter. COKN HOMINY White; 
 corn denuded of the bran and broken to the size of 
 peas. Used as a dinner vegetable after long cook- 
 ing. FINE HOMINY A grade of the size of grains 
 of wheat, boiled; used either for breakfast, dinner 
 or supper. HOMINY GRITS A grade fine as gran- 
 ulated sugar, most frequently used for breakfast 
 and supper in the form of porridge; eaten with milk 
 or cream. HULLED CORN Home-made hominy, 
 grains soaked in lye until the bran is nearly dis- 
 solved, then washed and boiled; used boiled for 
 lunch and supper, and fried with butter for break- 
 fast. CORN MEAL PUDDINGS (/)-Baked ; nv.ule of 
 8 oz. meal boiled in i qt. water or milk, mo!:isses, 
 butter, eggs, ginger. (2)-Boiled; made of S oz. 
 meal, i quart water, suet, sugar, lemon, eggs, 
 CORN SOUP A cream of corn; the grains finely 
 shaved and scraped off the cob, added to veal or 
 chicken stock with a piece of lean pickled pork and 
 , few vegetables, milk or cream, b\itter and flour at
 
 292 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 COR 
 
 the finish. CORN AND TOMATO SOUP Vegetable 
 soup with chopped tomatoes and grains of corn. 
 CANNED CORN Some brands are put up in such 
 perfection that the canned is as good as the green 
 and can be used in its place; when stewed it has a 
 little milk added to it, and perhaps a trifle of starch 
 or flour thickening. POP CORN A diminutive 
 sort of maize, the grains of which burst open when 
 roasted. POP CORN BALLS A popular cheap 
 sweetmeat made by mixing syrup with popped 
 corn while hot, and making it up in balls wrapped 
 in transparent paper. An immense business is done 
 in this product in the large cities. CANDIED POP 
 CORN Of various colors; made by stirring the 
 popped corn in a copper kettle over the fire, and 
 pouring syrup, allowing it to dry upon the grains. 
 
 CORXE D'ABOXDAXCE (Fr.)-H rn f plenty; 
 the cornucopia. 
 
 CORNICHONS (Fr.) Pickled cucumbers or 
 gherkins. 
 
 CORN STARCH Obtained by steeping crushed 
 maize in water and pressing it through straining 
 material into troughs of water. Starch will not dis- 
 solve in cold water, but settles at the bottom. CORN 
 STARCH CUSTARDS Starch used the same as arrow- 
 root; 2 oz. starch in a quart of milk thickens it to the 
 consistency of cream; eggs are added according to 
 the requirements. CORN STARCH PUDDINGS (/}- 
 Baked; made of 4 oz. starch, i qt. milk, scalded to- 
 gether; sugar, butter, eggs, flavoring. (2) -Boiled; 
 4 oz. starch, I qt. milk, sugar, butter, 2 yolks, fla- 
 voring. Starch is not to be cooked much, but taken 
 from the fire soon as thick; it turns thin with much 
 boiling or baking. CORN STARCH BLANC MANGE 
 Boiled pudding with less starch set in moulds; 
 turned out cold; served with cream or fruit jelly. 
 CORN STARCH JELLY- Acidulated lemon syrup thick- 
 ened with starch, simmered clear, set in moulds; 
 can be made with raspberry or any red juice. CORN 
 STARCII CREAM FRITTERS The boiled pudding 
 with yolks added, flavored, made cold, cut in shapes, 
 breaded and fried; served with maraschino sauce. 
 CORN STARCH MERINGUE The baked pudding 
 with fruit jelly on surface; meringued; baked. CORN 
 STARCH CAKES-Have a proportion of starch instead 
 of some of the flour. CORN STARCH ICE CREAM 
 White, useful for combinations of colors and to 
 make without eggs; made by thickening boiling 
 milk with starch, butter to whiten it, sugar, lemon; 
 frozen as usual. CORN STARCH THICKENING 
 Soups, gravies, sweet-pudding sauces, etc., thick- 
 ened with starch and allowed to simmer from 15 to 
 30 minutes, become clear and transparent as before, 
 smooth and bright, as they would not be with flour. 
 
 CORNED BEEF Beef that is pickled in a salt- 
 peter brine which makes it of a pink color distinct 
 from plain salted beef. 
 
 CORXED FISH Salted fish ; not smoked. 
 
 CORXUCOPIA The horn of plenty; classical 
 
 COT 
 
 emblem of abundance; much used by cooks and con- 
 fectioners in decorative work. 
 
 COSEV English; a thick cap of woolen material 
 to drop over the tea pot to keep it hot while the tea 
 is drawing; is sometimes highly ornamented with 
 needle-work. 
 
 COSTER OR CUSTARD APPLE Fruit of 
 the West Indies. 
 
 COTTOX-SEED OIL This must be counted 
 now among the important food products of the 
 United States; it is produced in immense and con- 
 stantly increasing quantities. The government 
 commissioners report: "Refined cotton-seed oil 
 is usually very free from acid, and when properly 
 prepared is of pleasant taste and admirably adapted 
 for edible and culinary purposes, for which it is 
 now extensively employed, both with and without 
 its nature being acknowledged. It is now sub- 
 stituted for olive oil in some of the liniments of the 
 United States Pharmacopeia, but its principal ap- 
 plications are in soap-making and the manufacture 
 of factitious butter." As far as the buyers of pro- 
 visions are concerned, the objection to cotton -seed 
 oil is that it is sold in disguise; as oil by its proper 
 name it can be bought at prices from 50 cents to 90 
 cents or $1.00 per gallon, dependent upon the degree 
 of refining it has undergone and the size of pack- 
 ages; but if bought with "pure olive oil" label 
 upon the package it may cost $3.00 per gallon or 
 more. A test for cotton-seed oil to distinguish it 
 has formerly been to subject it to cold, when it 
 would set in the bottle too thick to run; that test is 
 no longer good, however, for the stearine is now 
 pressed out at a low temperature, and the oil re- 
 mains limpid. It has been easy to detect it by the 
 smell in frying, but that only holds good with 
 common, half -refined oil; the best has no unpleasant 
 smeii, and is now generally used in restaurants and 
 hotels for frying, instead of lard. One of the great- 
 est manufacturers of lard testified not long ago that 
 about one -third of the lard made was cotton -seed 
 oil; which fact accounts for the establishment of 
 three grades of lard in regular business, the lo-vvest 
 being always semi-fluid at medium temperature and 
 useless for making the best pastry, while the next 
 grade above bears evidence of having been chemic- 
 ally treated in its soapy, pasty tenacity. If it must 
 be purchased for economical reasons, instead of 
 buying it in the guise of lard or olive oil, it is wise 
 to buy cotton-seed oil for what it is at the lowest 
 price, taking care to obtain a thoroughly refined 
 article. That it needs and is highly susceptible of 
 refinement this interesting extract from the govern- 
 ment chemist's report will show: "The oil as ex- 
 pressed from the seeds contains in solution, often to 
 the extent of i per cent., a peculiar coloring matter, 
 which is characteristic of this oil and its seed, and 
 which gives the oil a ruby-red color, sometimes so 
 intense as to cause the oil to appear nearly black. 
 The coloring matter causes crude cotton -seed oil to
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 293 
 
 COT 
 
 produce stains, and hence is removed by a process 
 of refining-. This is usually effected by agitating 
 the crude oil at the ordinary temperature with 10 to 
 15 per cent, of solution of caustic soda of 1.060 
 specific gravity, when the alkali combines with the 
 coloring matter and saponifies a portion of the oil. 
 The mixture becomes filled with black flocks which 
 deposit on standing and leave the oil but slightly 
 colored. Refined cotton-seed oil is of a straw or 
 golden-yellow color, or, occasionally, nearly color- 
 less." 
 
 COTELETTES (Fr.) Cutlets. These meaning 
 originally mutton or lamb chops having the rib bone 
 in them, the end of the bone trimmed serving as a 
 handle, all the unusual things denominated cutlets 
 or cotelettes are imitations of the cutlet shape with 
 iittle regard to their composition. C6TELETTES DE 
 HIITKES (/)-Large, flattened, fried .oysters in 
 bread crumbs, with a stick of macaroni inserted to 
 represent the chop bone, and perhaps a paper frill 
 upon it. (,?)-Oysters cut small, mixed with bread 
 crumbs, sauce, yolks, etc., made out into cutlet 
 shapes; breaded and fried. (See chicken cutlets, etc.) 
 
 COTE DE BCEUF (Fr.) Ribs of beef. 
 
 COULIBIAC A national Russian dish of eggs 
 and cabbage baked like a pie; made of 2 cabbages, 2 
 large onions chopped and fried, salt, pepper, 4 oz. 
 butter; all stewed till tender; when cold, 6 chopped 
 hard eggs mixed in; made like a thin fruit pie, with 
 bottom and top crust of puff paste ; cabbage filling; 
 egged over; baked. 
 
 COURONNE (Fr.) Crown. Fillets or small 
 pieces of meat are dished en couronne when piled in 
 ring form. COURONNE DE BRIOCHE-A ring-shaped 
 plait or twist, or loaf of brioche. 
 
 COUGLOF (Fr.); KAUGLAUFF (Ger.) A 
 class of yeast -raised cakes, of which "election 
 cake " is the American example. 
 
 COURT-BOUILLON-A highly seasoned liquor 
 to cook fish in; consisting of: (/)-Water, white wine, 
 salt, pepper, onion, cloves, bay leaf, thyme, parsley 
 and a carrot. (2) -In Creole cookery it is a brown 
 sauce containing tomatoes, oil and garlic. 
 
 COUVERT (Fr.) Cover; the table setting; the 
 plate with folded napkin, knife, fork, etc. DINER 
 DE 40 C OUVERTS Dinner of 40 plates, or persons. 
 
 COVENTRIES Coventry puffs or tarts, made 
 like "Banburys." Turnovers of triangular shape 
 with raspberry jam inside; sugar glace baked on top. 
 
 COW-HEELS Often mentioned in foreign re- 
 cipes; they are calves' feet of a larger growth, and 
 can be used the same ways; are used to make gela- 
 tinous soups; soused in vinegar; stewed with odds 
 and ends of raw meat to make brawn or head 
 cheese. 
 
 CRAB There are several varieties of edible or 
 marketable crabs, besides a good many that are 
 merely natural curiosities. The smallest is the 
 Oyster Crab, found living in the same shell with 
 
 CRA 
 
 the oyster, and of late this has come into the list of 
 delicacies; oyster crabs in various styles are served 
 at the restaurants - mostly, however, in the form of 
 a bisque soup. There is another variety so like it in 
 size and appearance as to lead to the inference that 
 when oyster crabs are scarce, as they must generally 
 be, the other one may be made to do duty for it. 
 This is the Fiddler Crab one of the most singular 
 of living creatures; it is only a size larger than the 
 oyster crab, but instead of passing its life in water, 
 and in darkness it loves the sunshine; it lives in 
 moist burrows in the sand near salt water, and 
 comes out in countless thousands, making strange 
 motions at the mouth of its burrow when there are 
 no intruders in its precincts; it has one large claw, 
 nearly as big as its body, which it either folds across 
 its front like a shield, or extends and makes the 
 fiddling motion with, the other claw being diminu- 
 tive, no larger than one of its legs. These are 
 caught and used for bait. The Deep-Sea Crab 
 grows as large and has as heavy claws as the largest 
 lobsters; some are nearly covered with thorny pro- 
 jections. These large specimens are the kind to 
 serve as dressed crabs in their own shells. The 
 Lommon Small Green Crab seems to exist in all parts 
 of the world ; it is found in the markets by the wagon 
 load, and is the staple kind for all the ordinary well- 
 known dishes of crab. STUFFED CRABS Crabs 
 boiled five minutes in salted water, the flap and in- 
 side part called " the dead meat " and "the lady," 
 but which is the gills and generally sandy is thrown 
 away; crabs pulled open, back shells saved whole, 
 all the meat collected and chopped fine; thick sauce 
 made by simmering chopped onion in butter, adding 
 flour, then milk, salt, white and red pepper, yolks, 
 minced parsley, lemon juice, and the crab-meat; 
 shells filled with the mixture; bread crumbs on top; 
 baked. BUTTERED CRAB A large crab boiled, the 
 meat picked out, mixed with salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
 cream or melted butter, and bread crumbs; shell 
 filled; crumbs on top; baked; served hot with toast. 
 CRABS A L'AMERicAiNE-The meat picked out from 
 4 dozen crabs, drained, 2 raw yolks added, salt, 
 cayenne, little chopped parsley, 2 tablespoons bread 
 crumbs; made into balls or croquettes; breaded and 
 fried. HOT CRAB The meat of a large crab, rich 
 gravy, or cream, and curry paste, seasoning and fine 
 bread crumbs; the shell filled; crumbs on top; baked. 
 CRAB SAUSAGES "Would you like to eat crab saus- 
 ages? Boil some of these animals; reduce them to a 
 pulp; mix with this some spikenard, garum, pepper 
 and eggs; give to this the ordinary shape of saus- 
 ages, place them on a stove or gridiron, and you 
 will, by these means, obtain a delicate and tempting 
 dish. Apicius assures us of this fact; and he was a 
 connoisseur!" CRAB PIE A LA GUERNSEY The 
 meat of a large boiled crab chopped, seasoned with 
 salt, white pepper, littla nutmeg, pinch of cayenne, 
 lump of butte'" handful of bread crumbs; moistened 
 with 2 or 3 Spoons vinegar, hot, mixed with little 
 made mustard and salad oil; shell filled; bread
 
 294 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CRA 
 
 crumbs on top; baked; sers-ed very hot. BROWNED 
 CRAB A large crab, the shell buttered inside, the 
 meat minced and mixed with partly fried onion, 
 parsl' v, mushrooms, truffles and butter; flour, salt, 
 cayenne, few spoonfuls of broth or gravy; rilled into 
 the shell; bread crumbs on top; baked. CRAB Soup- 
 Crabs lx>iled, cleaned, broken, fried with onion and 
 bacon; meat from other crabs held in reserve; water 
 and tomatoes added to the fried crabs; stewed, 
 thickened with flour and butter; cream added, salt, 
 pepper, picked crab meat. COQUILLE DE CRABE 
 Scalloped crab or devilled crab in the shell. SOFT- 
 SHELL CRABS In season only 4 months, May, June, 
 July, August; the crab casts its shell yearly, and this 
 js the new shell unhardened. SOKT CRABS FRIED 
 The small legs removed, also the flap and gills in- 
 side it; washed, wiped dry, dipped in cream, fried 
 quickly in a kettle of hot lard or oil; dredged with 
 fine salt; served on a napkin with parsley and lemon. 
 SOFT CRABS. BROILED Breaded, flat in a double 
 broiler, done over hot coals, and basted with butter. 
 SOFT CRAB A L'IJJDIENNE Cut in pieces, partly 
 fried in butter with onions, curry powder, broth, 
 etc.; served with rice. CRABS A LA CREOLE "The 
 Creole style of cooking hard-shell crabs is highly 
 approved by epicures, but it doesn't recommend it- 
 self to Mr. Bergh's society for the prevention of 
 cruelty. A big iron-pot is put over a very hot fire. 
 The bottom of the pot is then covered with, say, 3 
 pints of the best white- wine vinegar, into which a 
 few pinches of salt are thrown ; upon this is sprink- 
 led red pepper; then 2 or 3 narrow sticks are placed 
 above the liquid, the ends resting at the sides of the 
 pot; the cover is put conveniently by for hurried ac- 
 tion; then the alive-crabs are packed in to the full, 
 and the cover is put on. The steam of the condi 
 ments soon enwraps them, and when the carapax is 
 cardinal red, 'a dish fit for the gods' is ready for 
 the refrigerator and then for the table. It is said by 
 those who have eaten crabs cooked in this peculiar 
 way that the natural moisture and flavor .of the meat 
 are preserved, and that the boiled condiments give 
 singular piquancy to it." DRESSED CRAB Is crab - 
 salad; the meat mixed with oil, salt, pepper, vinegar 
 and mustard; served in the large crab's shell on a 
 bed of cress or lettuce. CRAB WITH TOMATOES 
 "Baked tomatoes, partly stuffed with crab-meat, is 
 a new delicacy, and a sandwich made of one slice of 
 a large, ripe, juicy tomato with a layer of crab-meat, 
 cooked Creole style, isn't so bad." DEVILLED CRAB- 
 The same as the various forms of hot crab, buttered 
 crab, etc., which are but differences in seasonings; 
 devilled crab is made hotter, with some pungent 
 table sauce. CRAB SALAD-Crab meat with chopped 
 celery and salad seasonings. CRAB GUMBO Crabs 
 cut in pieces partially fried with butter, shallots and 
 ham; broth added, little white wine, aromatics, 
 green pepper, a tablespoon gumbo powder to each 
 pint of soup; dredged in carefully; served with 
 boiled rice. BISQUE OF CRABS Crabs in pieces; 
 with vegetables fried in butter; broth and wine 
 
 CRA 
 
 added; then pounded shells and all with boiled rice, 
 and passed through a seive; soup thickened with 
 this pur^e; sherry to finish; served with fried bread. 
 CANNED CRABS Crab meat ready- prepared can be 
 bought in cans; it can be used for all the hot dishes 
 where picked crab-meat is culled for, and for soups 
 and salads. "In England crabs are in season all the 
 year round, but are best in the warm months. All 
 crabs over 4^ inches across the broadest part of the 
 shell, crabs in roe, and soft-shell crabs, are illegal." 
 CRAB APPLE Wild apples, valued for mak- 
 ing crab apple jelly and crab cider. 
 
 CRACKER MEAI Crackers crushed and 
 
 sifted; used to bread cutlets, oysters and the like for 
 frying. It is important that the crackers used for 
 the purpose should be of the kinds that contain no 
 butter, as the dust of butter crackers soon turns 
 rancid and spoils the fries. Pieces of bread thor- 
 oughly dried and crushed form the substitute for 
 crackers, though the product is not so satisfactory. 
 
 CRACKNELS Name of a kind of crack^s or 
 biscuits. 
 
 CRACKLINGS The remains of pork fat after 
 the lard is tried out CRACKLING BREAD Corn 
 bread made of cracklings mixed in corn meal with 
 water and salt, baked in deep skillet. 
 
 CRANE Cranes were in the olden time con- 
 sidered an aristocratic dish. At a banquet during 
 the reign of Edward IV two hundred and four 
 were served. Cranes are eaten freely in the United 
 States. A sand-hill crane appeared for many suc- 
 ceeding years as one of the dishes at the famous 
 game dinners by Mr. John B. Drake in Chicago. 
 
 CRANBERRY First used in Siberia and ex- 
 ported from Russia. Grows wild in the northern 
 states and is improved by cultivation. The cran- 
 berry-growing interest is a large and important one, 
 cranberry sauce having become a national institu- 
 tion. The cultivated berries may be known by 
 their larger size and clean condition, for cultivators 
 find it most expedient to have them picked by hand. 
 CRANBERRY SAUCE Stewed cranberries with 
 sugar, stirred up, not strained; served with roast 
 turkey, chicken, goose, pork and venison. CRAN- 
 BERRY JELLY Very easily made as cranberries 
 have more vegetable gelatine than any other fruit. 
 The syrup from cranberries stewed with sugar 
 poured off clear, sets in jelly when cold; used in 
 place of currant jelly with meats and in pastry. 
 CRANBERRY PIE Open tart, the fruit well sweet- 
 ened. CRANBERRY ROLL One of the best of 
 "roly-poly" puddings. (See apple roll.) 
 
 CRAPAUDINE (a la} Trussed or spread out 
 like a frog. Pigeons or chickens a la crapaudine 
 are split open, flattened and broiled. 
 
 CRAWFISH " I wonder when the modern 
 caterer and book -writer, as well as the fishmonger, 
 who ought to know better, will cease to stumble 
 between the Scylla and Charybdis of cray and craw
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 295 
 
 CRA 
 
 fish. The former is a small crustacean found in the 
 mouths of rivers, and the other, as a rule, larger 
 than a lobster and a sea and harbor fish. The meat 
 of both is rich in inosile, animal sugar, which easily 
 distinguishes it from that of the lobster. Again, 
 the crawfish is sweeter than the crayfish. The 
 identical crawfish for this dinner were .vo/rfas cray- 
 Jish ; and I remember in iSSo having- to review a 
 cook book, from the pen of an illustrious writer, 
 where the two were confounded, and the man posed 
 as a naturalist, too." LANGOUSTE A LA BROCHE 
 Roast crawfish; the fish marinaded in vinegar and 
 oil, or brushed over with vinegar several times, then 
 with butter and roasted in a very hot oven with fre- 
 quent basting. When the shell becomes soft it is 
 done; white sauce with wine, lemon juice, mace, 
 etc. CRAWFISH CUTLETS The head removed and 
 all the hard parts of the tail except the terminal 
 piece. Slit so as to be laid open, beaten flat, sea- 
 soned, breaded, fried; served with tomato sauce or 
 fried parsley. 
 
 CRAYFISH There are two or more kinds; the 
 river or fresh-water crayfish, which may be found 
 in any shallow creek or brook where cresses grow; 
 it is used for fish bait, but never thought of as an 
 article of diet in this country. The other is the salt- 
 water crayfish, black with red claws while alive; it 
 is to all intents a small lobster, the same in shape 
 and formation, and turns red when cooked. This 
 crayfish or crawfish is but three or four inches long. 
 It is well understood and appreciated by the French 
 inhabitants of Louisiana and an article of regular 
 supply in their markets. And it is an interesting 
 crustacean on account of its prominence in the 
 whole system of French cookery. Truffles and cray- 
 fish tails crayfish tails and truffles the twain are 
 almost as certain as pepper and salt to be met with 
 in every dish with a name in any foreign menu. 
 Buissox DE ECREVISSES Pyramid of crayfish; 
 plain boiled in salted water with onions, parsley, 
 pepper, white wine or cider, cooked for 10 minutes; 
 served cold, built up on a napkin folded around an 
 inverted champagne glass to form a cone; decorated 
 with parsley. ECREVISSES A LA BORDELAISE 
 The crayfish well washed and alive ; a stewpan is 
 set over the fire and these preparatory ingredients 
 are fried in it: 3 sliced onions, as many mushrooms ( 
 4 oz. lean ham cut in dice, 2 cloves, garlic, parsley 
 thyme, bay leaf, salt, white and cayenne pepper. 
 When all these are fried light brown half a bottle of 
 chablis or claret is added and a wine glass of vin- 
 egar; when boiling, the crayfish are thrown in, cov- 
 ered with a lid and boiled 12 minutes, frequently 
 stirred up. Liquor is then strained off from them, 
 thickened with flour and butter; tomato sauce added 
 to it, poured over the crayfish in a deep dish, fried 
 shapes of bread around. CRAYFISH FOR GARNISH- 
 ING " Ecrevisses of the smaller kind are also ex- 
 tensively used in the French cuisine for garnishing. 
 The 'poulet a la Marengo,' the 'tete de veau en 
 tortue..' the 'saumon a la Chambord,' the 'matelotte 
 
 d'anguilles, the 'pate chaud a la financiere,' would 
 be ignoble and inartistic plates without the embell- 
 ishment of crayfish. In France and in Germany, 
 where they are abundant, crayfish is considered a 
 very dainty article of food, and in a dejeuner of any 
 importance, or an elaborate supper, a Buisson 
 li'ecre-i'isses always occupies a prominent place on 
 the table. In Paris the craze for them is such that 
 they are hawked, ready cooked, about the streets, 
 the price varying from a penny to six-pence each. 
 The best crayfish are caught in the rivers Meuse 
 and Rhine. Crayfish butter and crayfish tails are 
 also well spoken of; but the most historic use to 
 which the little river lobsters have been put, is that 
 of making the famous potage known as 'bisque.' 
 Bisque is as old a soup as 'potage a la reine.' " 
 BISQUE OF CRAYFISH Crayfish have always to be 
 prepared for cooking by removing the intestine 
 which would make them bitter; it is done by picking 
 the extreme end of the center fin and with a sudden 
 jerk withdrawing the gist containing the gall. The 
 bisque is a puree of crayfish and rice. Made same 
 as bisque of crabs (which see), finished with butter, 
 Madeira, red pepper, and the tails of the crayfish 
 reserved for the purpose. (See Bisque.") 
 
 CREAM A new process has been invented re- 
 cently for separating cream from milk mechanically; 
 the appliance is called "Laval's separator." This 
 contrivance has quite revolutionized the ordinary 
 round of operations in the dairy. Instead of allow- 
 ing the milk to stand in large shallow pans for sev- 
 eral hours, so as to permit the cream to separate 
 and rise to the top in virtue of gravity, the separator 
 takes advantage of the so-called centrifugal force, 
 and, by rapidly whirling the milk round at the rate 
 of over 5,000 revolutions a minute, the cream collects 
 at the centre, whilst the skim -milk passes to the 
 circumference, and each can be readily drawn off 
 immediately and continuously. CLOTTED CREAM 
 A Devonshire specialty, but a common enough pro- 
 duct of New England dairies. The pans of milk 
 are heated before they are put away for the cream 
 to rise and let stand for two days. The cream so 
 gathered is clotted; it is considered a luxury to eat 
 with fruit and hot cakes. "An attractive looking 
 temperance kiosk for the sale of dairy products and 
 light refreshments. The six-penny plates of pre- 
 served apricots and clotted cream obtainable here 
 are liberal as to quantity, and present a really deli- 
 cious combination." 
 
 CREAMER A contrivance of deep cans with a 
 faucet in the bottom of each, placed in a framed box 
 constructed to hold water and ice around them. The 
 cans are filled with milk, the cream rising to the 
 top, the skim-milk being drawn off at the bottom 
 without disturbing the upper surface. Useful for 
 hotels. 
 
 CREAMERY A factory where butter is made 
 in a wholesale way from the milk of hundreds of 
 cows at once.
 
 296 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CRE 
 CREAM CHEESE The easiest cheese to make, I vanilla. 
 
 CRE 
 PETITS POTS DE CREME These creams 
 
 and one which is much appreciated with salad; the ; of any kind set in individual cups instead of a large 
 best time for it is when the grass is rich in early 
 
 summer. A pan of milk is allowed to stand 36 
 hours, the cream taken off, salted a little, poured 
 into a napkin set in a dish; the cloth absorbs the 
 watery part of the cream. When it has stood 24 
 hours the cream is moulded into cheese shape; 
 ready to eat in 4 or 5 days; will not keep over a week 
 or two. CREAM CHEESE FRITTERS Sweet or sa- 
 vory. Cream cheese (about % Ib.) rubbed through 
 
 mould. CREME AU CAFE Bavarois flavored with 
 coffee. CREME DE THE Bavarois flavored with 
 tea. CREME A LA HOLLANDAISE Bavarois made 
 yellow with yolks, wine added, or, a yellow custard 
 with gelatine and whipped cream flavored with 
 wine. CREME AUX ABRICOTS Apricot pulp, 
 sugar and gelatine added to whipped cream. CREME 
 A LA VAXILLE Bavarian flavored with vanilla. 
 CREME DE ORANGES Bavarois made with orange 
 a seive, 3 tablespoons bread-crumbs, i egg, i table- I syrup, gelatine and whipped cream. CREME DE 
 spoon sugar, orange flavor, made in balls, floured, i PRAISES Strawberry Bavarian. CREME DEPONCHE 
 fried; wine sauce. The same is done without sugar, ! Bavarois (or Bavarian cream) flavored with punch. 
 
 with savory seasonings. 
 
 CREME DE FRAMBOISRS Raspberry Bavarian; 
 
 CREAM CURD Milk curdled with rennet, raspberry pulp and syrup with gelatine in whipped 
 
 mixed with cream, drained in a cloth. Used for 
 making real cheese cakes, mixed with sugar, butter- 
 eggs, bread-crumbs, flavorings; baked in a crust 
 CREAM CURD PUDDING The curd mixed with 
 currants, citron, pounded crackers, sugar, eggs 
 flavorings; baked. 
 
 CREAM FRITTERS Oblong or diamond - 
 shaped pieces of rich corn starch pudding mixture, 
 or of custard stiffened with flour, rolled in flour 
 dipped in egg and cracker dust, fried; sugared or 
 served with wine sauce. 
 
 cream. CREME AUX MILLE FRUITS Bavarian 
 cream, with a mixture of various candied fruits. 
 CREME A LA CELESTINE A mould lined with 
 strawberries and filled with Bavarian of any color 
 or flavor. CREME BRULEE Bavarois made of yel- 
 low custard flavored with caramel, sugar and cinna- 
 mon. CREME A L'ARLEQUIN Bavarois with cubes 
 of different colors of clear wine jelly stirred into 
 when on the point of setting. CREME A L'!TA- 
 LIEXXE Bavarois with a mixture of sultana raisins, 
 canuied peel, dried cherries; cinnamon and curacao 
 
 for flavoring. CREME BAVAROIS AUX FRUITS 
 
 CREAM TARTS-Z^wfer, nirlitom; or fan- Bavarian crearn s^-ed with a compote of fruit. 
 
 CURACAO CREAM Yolk of egg custard, well flav- 
 
 chonettes. 
 
 CREAM PUFFS Choux paste; made of i pint ored with curacao, dissolved gelatine mixed in and 
 water, 8 oz. lard or butter, 9 oz. flour, 10 eggs whipped cream added; set on ice. STRAWBERRY 
 First three ingredients made into cooked paste over CREAM Berries with sugar passed through a seive; 
 the fire, eggs beaten in; dropped on pans; baked. \ gelatine dissolved in syrup, all mixed with whipped 
 The cakes rise and become quite hollow. They are cream; set on ice. An ounce of gelatine to a quart 
 cut in the side and filled with whipped cream or j is not too much when fruit is added; for whipped 
 
 custard. 
 
 cream alone % oz. to a quart, before whipped, is 
 
 CREAM SAUCE Made by stirring flour and ' enough, as too much makes the cream tough. DEC- 
 butter together over the fire until it begins to bubble, ! ORATED CREAM Yellow custard with gelatine and 
 tnen adding milk, with constant stirring; finishing whipped cream flavored with vanilla. Some of the 
 
 with salt and lumps of butter beaten in, and cream. 
 CREAM BECHAMEL Various qualities of cream 
 
 gelatine custard colored pink on a plate on ice; leaf 
 shapes stamped out of it when set, and the mould 
 
 sauce are made by using seasoned chicken broth and j decorated with a pattern in pink leaves; filled up, 
 mushroom liquor instead of milk, but finishing with i set on ice. PISTACHE CREAM Made of i oz. gela- 
 cream. Cream cannot be boiled with rich gelatinous i tine, 4 oz. sugar, J^ pt. water, hot, to dissolve the 
 
 broth without curdling. 
 CREMES (Fr.) Creams. 
 
 Bavarian creams. 
 
 ; gelatine, i gill sherry, i gill kirsch added; 4 oz. 
 | pistachio nuts blanched and chopped fine, green 
 
 class of gelatinized cream compounds; a more elab- | coloring, i pt. thick cream, whipped, all mixed, 
 orate sort of blanc-mange, whipped while setting 
 
 on ice to make it spongy and delicate. CREME A 
 
 stirred on ice till thick enough to hold up the nuts, 
 then put in mould. It is a light green cream; can 
 
 LA BAVAROISE Whipped cream with gelatine dis. j ^ P ut into a mould imitating a bunch of asparagus- 
 sol ved in synip mixed in; about J^ oz. gelatine to i ! CREME FOUETTEE Whipped cream. CREME 
 qt BAVAROISE AU GINGEMBRE Ginger cream. | FOUETTEE AUX PRAISES Whipped cream with 
 Preserved ginger pounded, mixed with syrup and 
 
 gelatine, mixed with whipped cream; set in moulds 
 
 strawberries. 
 CREME FRITE (Fr.) Fried cream; cream 
 
 on ice; served with cake. CREME BAA-AROISE A LA ' fritters. CREME FRITE AU CHOCOLAT Chocolate 
 PRASLIN Almond nougat-candy pounded and dis- : corn-starch custard, breaded and fried, 
 solved with boiling milk, gelatine and whipped j CREME RENVERSEE AU CARAMEL 
 cream added; moulded on ice. CREME AU CHOCO- I Custard upside down with caramel; made by lining 
 LAT Chocolate cream; some chocolate dissolved in a mould, or small individual moulds, with melted 
 hot milk, mixed with whipped cream, sugar and sugar (caramel), either by melting it by heat in the
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 297 
 
 CRE 
 
 mould or pouring in from ;i kettle, letting it run and 
 set in candy on the sides, then filling up with a 
 strong custard and steaming till just set. The 
 candy casing partly dissolves while the custard is 
 steaming, and serves as sauce when turned out of 
 the mould. Served as pudding. 
 
 CREOLE Name applied to the people born in 
 the colonies of France and Spain of parents who 
 were subjects of those countries. They were denied 
 equal rights with citizens born in the old countries, 
 although belonging to the same government. "The 
 elements which Spain contributed to the establish- 
 ment of the Mexican nationality were the oppres- 
 sive exactions laid upon the people of the colony, 
 the foolish refusal to recognize as equals the Amer- 
 ican-born children of Spanish subjects (thence 
 called Creoles), and the ambition of her officials. 
 Indian hate and the Creole sense of injustice of 
 Spanish rule, were the real impulses that secured 
 Mexican independence." 
 
 CREOLE COOKERY It is simply the cooking 
 of their ancestors' country. If a banquet for Creoles 
 had to be prepared with Creole dishes; it would be 
 sufficient, if they were of French descent, to furnish 
 all such dishes as are denominated a la Provencale. 
 The cookery of old French Louisiana is the same as 
 the cookery of the south of France. A few special- 
 ties have taken root, such as gumbo, courtbouillon, 
 jambalaya, pilau, rissotto, bouillabaisse, and the 
 like, but not half of them are new dishes. 
 
 CREPE (Fr.) Pancake. " But if the pancake is, 
 an honored institution with us, it is much more so 
 n the Continent. There, across the 'silver streak,' 
 but more especially in the Latin countries, the crepe 
 is adored for itself and as a symbol. It is the crown- 
 ing, the full essence, of the joyous, rackety carnival 
 week. The happy and harmless saturnalia culmin- 
 ates in a grand Mardi Gras and universal pancake 
 tossing. Children, both big and small, as the day 
 draws to a close, give way to their pent-up feelings 
 in song: 
 
 ' Mardi Gras ne t'en vas pas, 
 Nous ferons des crgpes, 
 Nous ferons des crfipes! 
 Mardi Gras ne t'en vas pas, 
 Nous ferons des crfipes, 
 Et tu en auras!' 
 
 They do so, too. Why, every house in France, let 
 the meiiagere be never so stingy on other occasions, 
 always has ready a good supply of batter, eggs, lard 
 or butter, to say nothing of sugar and lemons. And 
 then, as the night steals gently on, what a to-do 
 there is! frying every where; housewives and willing 
 aids tossing the brown curling morsels with won- 
 drous energy and happy knack, to the tune of a ver- 
 icable hurricane of merry laughter. In Southern 
 Germany the calm ladies also toss pancakes for 
 'their stolid housefolk and invited guests. As for the 
 Italian pancake, it is not what it ought to be. It is 
 "too thick and heavy, and liberally supplied with 
 eggs, deficient in crispness, and is generally fried in 
 oil. The Provencal pancake is light and good, but 
 
 CRO- 
 
 flavored with orange-flower water, and fried in a 
 very little thoroughly boiling oil. On some parts of 
 the Ligurian coast finely-minced beta (a green, leafy 
 vegetable, somewhat resembling spinach) is mixed 
 in the batter. In Spain, ripe-pickled olives (purple- 
 brown and full of oil) are sliced and mixed with the 
 paste; they are fried in olive-oil. Both these are 
 eaten as sweet dishes, in spite of the, to us, unusual 
 ingredients." (See Pancakes.) 
 
 CREPINETTES Small, thin pancakes made 
 into turnovers with shredded bacon and truffles and 
 some highly seasoned chicken forcemeat inclosed in 
 the fold; brushed over with egg; baked; served with 
 gravy, also flat sausages. 
 
 CRESSON (Fr.) Cress. Poultry snipe, or any 
 dish au cresson, is roasted and served with law 
 cress in the dish, and the gravy in a sauce boat 
 separate. 
 
 CRESS Water-cress or garden-cress; both are 
 used the same way, either as an accompaniment and 
 relish with roast fowl; eaten alone with salt, or 
 combined in a salad. 
 
 CRESCENTS (/) -Rolls of the Vienna-bread 
 variety in crescent shape made up with milk; hand- 
 somely glazed. (s)-Shapes of Genoise cake, with 
 water icing of various colors; cut out from sheets. 
 (j)-Glazed crescents are also a kind of French bon- 
 bons, called cavissants. 
 
 CREVETTES (Fr.) Shrimps. 
 
 CRE VETTES - BOUQUETS "A corespondence 
 
 was going on some time ago in the pages of the 
 
 World, between Theoc, the Parisian correspondent 
 
 of that journal, and another, as to the French for 
 
 prawn.' Theoc stated, and rightly, that the French 
 for prawn is bouquet. Bouquet, according to Littre', 
 is the diminutive of boitc a goat, from the appear- 
 ance of this shell fish. It is usual, however, in 
 French restaurant bills of fare to prefix the word 
 cre-uettet, thus: Crevettes- Bouquet, though, to be 
 grammatically correct, it should be written Crevettes- 
 Boiiquets. It is from Brittany that red shrimps (in 
 contradistinction to gray shrimps) are chiefly pro- 
 cured. In Paris these fetch a high price, about double 
 that paid for the dull-colored variety, than which 
 they are much less flavored. Shrimps here are called 
 ckevrettes, or 'little goats.' The word clierettes is 
 derived from chevrettes, just as bouquets, or prawns, 
 is derived from bouc-ejlef, or 'little rams.' Shrimps 
 and prawns alike are boiled in large quantities daily, 
 and sent up to Paris in time for the morning's mar- . 
 kets, by the special fish, or maree, train." 
 
 CROMESQUIS Kromeskies. Russian name for 
 a sort of rissole. CROMESQUIS DE HUITRES Oys- 
 ters rolled in very thin shavings of bacon; dipped 
 in batter; fried in hot lard. (See Kromeskies.) 
 
 CROQUENBOUCHE "The name given to all 
 large set pieces for suppers or dinners, such as 
 nougats, cakes, pyramids of candied orange quar- 
 ters, etc., which have been covered with sugar, and
 
 298 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CRO 
 
 boiled to a snap, so as to give a brilliant appearance. 
 The real meaning of croquenbouche is ' crackle in the 
 mouth.' " 
 
 CROQUETTES The word signifies something 
 crisp. Croquettes are balls or any shape of almost 
 any eatable thing, floured or bread -crumbed and 
 fried in plenty of hot fat, then drained on paper. 
 CHICKEN CROQUETTES A L'ITALIENNE Meat of i 
 large chicken cut in very small squares, half as 
 much mushrooms; little chopped shallot; butter and 
 flour fried together; broth added to make thick 
 sauce; yolks of eggs, chicken and mushrooms stirred 
 into the sauce; made cold; rolled into pear shapes, 
 or rolls; breaded; fried; served with Italian sauce. 
 CROQUETTES OF BEEF PALATES Beef palates par- 
 boiled and skinned; cooked 3 hours, and pressed; 
 cut in small dice; made same as chicken croquettes; 
 tomato sauce. CROQUETTES DE HOMARD Lobster 
 croquettes; the meat, coral, white sauce, yolks of 
 eggs, and butter, made into smooth long rolls; 
 breaded; fried; served with any fish sauce, which 
 then gives the name, as with Hollandaise sauce. 
 CROQUETTES DECEKVELLES Brains scrambled with 
 bread crumbs, milk, flour, yolks, little minced shallot, 
 nutmeg, lemon juice, pepper, salt, parsley; made in 
 cone or pear shapes ; breaded; fried. CROQUETTES 
 DE VOLAILLE AUX TRUFFES Chicken with truffles 
 mixed in, instead of mushrooms, and served with 
 truffle sauce. CROQUETTES DE VOLAILLE A L'ECAR- 
 LATE With red tongue in the composition and in 
 the sauce. CROQUETTES DE POMMES Apple mar- 
 malade stiffened with corn starch; cooled; cut in ob- 
 longs; breaded; fried; served with sweet sauce or 
 jelly. CROQUTTES DE Riz Rice boiled dry, slightly 
 sweetened; butter and yolks added; made in pear 
 shapes; floured; breaded; fried; currant jelly for 
 sauce. CROQUETTES DE Riz DE VEAU Calves' 
 sweetbreads; same way as chicken or brains. CRO- 
 QUETTES OF RICE AND HAM A London caterer's 
 specialty. Potted ham or tongue made in small 
 balls; rice cooked and seasoned; yolks and whipped 
 whites added; the ham balls covered with the rice 
 paste; egged; rolled in ground pop-corn; fried; 
 white sauce containing lemon juice. TURKEY CRO- 
 QUETTES Made of i Ib. cold turkey, J Ib. bread 
 crumbs, J^ Ib. butter, i teaspoon onion, 4 eggs, 
 parsley, little nutmeg, salt, cayenne, sweet cream; 
 bread wetted with cream, butter and eggs; stirred 
 over the fire, chopped meat added; cooled; balled up; 
 fried. CROQUETTES DE MACARONI Macaroni and 
 cheese in croquette form. 
 
 CROQUANTE-Something made of brittle candy ; 
 a shape made of almond nougat, a case formed of a 
 brittle cake, made of equal parts of pounded nuts, 
 sugar and flour; to be filled with crystalized fruit, etc. 
 
 CROSXES DU JAPOX Stachys; a Japanese 
 vegetable of the Jerusalem artichoke order, now 
 jjrown in France. 
 
 CROUTES (Fr.) Crusts; fried shapes of bread. 
 CROUTES AUX ANCHOIS Small pieces of fried bread 
 
 spread with anchovy butter and filleted anchovy on 
 
 top. CROUTES AU jAMBOx-Fried bread spread with 
 
 potted ham. CROUTES AUX ANANAS Shapes of 
 
 fried bread with compote of pineapple. CROUTES 
 
 AUX FRAISES A LA BELLERIVE French strawberry 
 
 ; shortcake; strawberries on hot buttered rusks. 
 
 j CROUTES AUX ABRICOTS Ornamentally shaped 
 
 slices of bread fried in clear butter with compote or 
 
 j preserved apricots; the apricot syrup colored with 
 
 currant jelly poured over. 
 
 CROUSTADE The same thing made of bread 
 and fried as a casserole or cassolette, which are 
 made of rice or potato; a case, large or small, and 
 more or less ornamentally carved. 
 
 CROUTONS OR CRUTOXS Croutes in small, 
 thin, fancy shapes, such as heart or leaf shapes, 
 used to place around and decorate an entree; cubes 
 of bread toasted in the oven, or fried, to serve with 
 soup, especially with soups made of beans, peas, or 
 lentils. 
 
 CROUTE-AU-POT Xame of a vegetable soup 
 finished with triangular thin pieces of brown toasted 
 bread. 
 
 CRULLERS Fried cakes; doughnuts. 
 
 CRULLS Of potatoes; curls, spirals, or long 
 strings to fry. There are special tools made for 
 cutting these. 
 
 CRUMPETS- English name for a yeast-raised 
 kind of batter cake, not rich, but light; sold by bak- 
 ers who make it their business. 
 
 CRUST SOUP Croule-au-Pot. (See soups.) 
 
 CRYSTALLIZED FRUITS "The process is 
 quite simple. The theory is to extract the juice 
 from the fruit and replace it with sugar-syrup, 
 which, upon hardening, preserves the fruit from 
 decay and, at the same time, retains the natural shape 
 of the fruit. All kinds of fruit are capable of being 
 preserved under this process. The exact degree of 
 ripeness is of great importance, which is at that 
 stage when fruit is best for canning. Peaches, pears, 
 etc., are pared and cut in halves as for canning; 
 plums, cherries, etc., are pitted. The fruit having 
 thus been carefully prepared, is then put in a basket 
 or a bucket, with a perforated bottom, and immersed 
 in boiling water. The object of this is to dilute and 
 extract the juice of the fruit. The length of the time 
 the fruit is immersed is the most important part of 
 the process. If left too long, it is overcooked and be- 
 comes soft; if not immersed long enough, the juice 
 is not sufficiently extracted, which prevents a per- 
 fect absorbtion of the sugar. The next step is the 
 svrup, which is made of white sugar and water. 
 The softer the fruit, the heavier the syrup required. 
 Ordinarily about 70 degrees Balling's saccharometer 
 is the proper weight for the syrup. The fruit is then, 
 placed in earthen pans, and covered with the syrup, 
 where it is left to remain about a week. The sugar 
 enters the fruit and displaces what juice remained 
 after the scalding process. The fruit now requires
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 299 
 
 cue 
 
 careful watching, as fermentation will soon take 
 place; and when this has reached a certain stage, 
 the fruit and syrup is heated to a boiling degree, 
 which checks the fermentation. This heating process 
 should be repeated as often as necessary for about 
 six weeks. The fruit is then taken out of the sj-rup 
 and Washed in clean water, and is then ready to be 
 either glazed or crystallized, as the operator may 
 wish. If glazed, the fruit is dipped in thick sugar- 
 syrup, and left to harden quickly in open air. If it 
 is. to be crystallized, dip in the same kind of syrup, 
 but is made to cool and harden slowly, thus causing 
 the sugar, which covers the fruit, to crystallize. 
 The fruit is now ready for boxing and shipping. 
 Fruit thus prepared will keep in any climate and 
 stand transportation." FOR DESSERT "Crystall- 
 ized fruits make a very acceptable dish for dessert; 
 they ornament the table and please the palate. They 
 should be arranged with due regard to color, the 
 darker hues, such as greengages, being used for the 
 base, and the brighter ones, such as apricots and 
 oranges, for the upper part, the chinks and crevices 
 being filled with cherries and raspberries." CRVS- 
 TAI.LIZED VIOLETS For 1% Ibs. fresh violet blos- 
 soms 2 l /2 Ibs. sugar; dissolved over the fire with 
 small cup water, and boiled. The violets are par- 
 boiled in water, drained out, then put into this syrup 
 and boiled 10 minutes; then drained on a seive. 
 Little more syrup made of i Ib. loaf sugar with % 
 cup water, violets put in, and stirred till syrup gran- 
 ulates; then taken up and dried. Rose-leaves same 
 way. 
 
 CUCUMBER Though generally eaten raw as 
 a salad it is good to cook in various ways. FRIED 
 CUCUMBERS Cut in slices, wiped dry, floured, 
 fried in hot fat, salted, peppered. CUCUMBER AND 
 EGGS The cucumber in slices, floured, simmered in 
 stock with parsley and lumps of sugar 15 minutes; 
 2 yolks added, sugar, vinegar and Worcestershire 
 sauce, the yolks only to thicken the sauce. FRICAS- 
 SEED CUCUMBERS Same as the foregoing. BOILED 
 CUCUMBERS Sliced, boiled in salted water till ten- 
 der, taken up, served in gravy on croutes. STUFFED 
 CUCUMBERS Seeds removed after peeling, stuffed 
 with forcemeat of bread, suet, herbs and raw egg, 
 boiled in milk till tender, then breaded and fried, 
 either whole or to garnish a dish, cut across in 
 slices. CUCUMBER PUREE served with various 
 dishes of chicken, veal, lamb, fish, etc., made by 
 first parboiling cucumbers in pieces, then simmering 
 with butter, adding salt, pepper, sugar, flour and 
 milk to make sauce of it, passing all through a 
 seive. CUCUMBERS A LA BECHAMEL Pared, quar- 
 tered, boiled in salted water, drained, covered with 
 cream sauce containing little sugar. CONCOMBRES 
 A LA CREME Slices in cream sauce. CONCOMBRES 
 A LA MOELLE Stuffed with bread and marrow; 
 brown sauce. CONCOMBRES A LA POULETTE In 
 cream colored sauce. CONCOMBRES FARCIES A LA 
 CREME Stuffed cucumbers in cream sauce contain- 
 ing sugar. CONCOMBRES FARCIES A L'ESPAGNOLE 
 
 CUM 
 
 Stuffed in short lengths, the center core being re- 
 moved with a cutter, stewed in brown sauce. CU- 
 CUMBER SOUPS Puree of cucumbers is white, made 
 chiefly of miik and mashed cucumber. GARBURE 
 WITH CUCUMBERS Stewed cucumbers on crusts 
 baked in soup to dry ness, served with broth. CON- 
 SOMME A LA BEAUVILLIERS Has stuffed pieces of 
 cucumber and crusts in the plates. CUCUMBERS IN 
 STEWS Cucumber may be added to any soup or 
 stew, and is especially good in a rich haricot. Cut 
 in thin slices and add at the last moment; boil up 
 for a few seconds only, and the dish may then be 
 served. If the cucumber is cooked for any length of 
 time, it will melt away. This may be allowed in 
 the case of a haricot, as the flavor will be there if 
 the slices are no longer visible. A few thin slices 
 boiled up in a light soup make an elegant variation, 
 and will always gratify the guests as a change. 
 CUCUMBER PICKLES Youug cucumbers are thrown 
 into brine as gathered, taken out and freshened at 
 any time, scalded two or three times in boiling vine- 
 gar, but not cooked to softness. Pepper and spice 
 in the vinegar. SALT CUCUMBER SALAD Taken ovit 
 of the brine, cut up and freshened in cold water, 
 chopped, mixed with chopped celery, eaten with 
 oil, vinegar and pepper. CUCUMBERS TO KEEP 
 Packed down in salt and water as they are gathered 
 they keep for months; packed in layers with brown 
 sugar between they change to pickles without 
 further attention. Must be pressed under the liquor 
 with a weight on top. 
 
 CUISSES (Fr.) Legs. CUISSES DE VOLAILLE A 
 LA JARDINIERE Legs of fowl boned, stuffed, 
 braised, served with mixed vegetables in sauce. 
 CUISSES DE VOLAILLE A LA BAYONNAISE Boned, 
 fried with onions in oil, sauce added, bread crumbs 
 over, browned in the oven. CUISSES DE VOLAILLE 
 FARCIES AUX PETITS LEGUMES Boned, stuffed, 
 braised, on a rice border with fancy shapes of veg- 
 etables in a brown sauce. CUISSES DE VOLAILLE A 
 L'ECAILLERE Boned and stuffed with chopped 
 oysters and crumbs, served with oyster sauce. 
 CUISSES D'OiE A LA LYONNAISE Legs of goose 
 previously roasted, cut up, fried with onion, served 
 with piquante "sauce.' SALMIS DE CUISSES DE CAN- 
 ETONS Legs of roast duck stewed in gravy with 
 wine. 
 
 CUISINE (Fr.) Kitchen; cookery. FAIRE LA 
 CUISINE to do the cooking. CUISINIER Man cook. 
 CUISINIERE Woman cook. 
 
 CULINARIAN A professor of the culinary art; 
 an expert in the literature and practice of cookery 
 in all its branches. 
 
 CULLIS OR COULIS Broth of meat or fish 
 unseasoned, for use in the preparation of dishes for 
 the table. Blond bouillon or stock. 
 
 CUMBERLAND STEW American hotel spec- 
 ialty, made of 7 squirrels, 2 capons, 2 ft>s. butter, 12 
 cans each corn and tomatoes, 2 cans lima beans, ^ 
 loaves bread, salt, red pepper, i onion, i pint wine.
 
 300 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CUL 
 
 Souirrels and fowls cut up and half cooked in butter, 
 water and wine, vegetables added, bread crumbed 
 in; stewed constantly till sufficiently tender. 
 
 CULOTTE DE BEEF A LA FLAMANDE 
 Round of beef with Brussels sprouts and other 
 vegetables glazed. 
 
 CURACAO A cordial; syrup with orange and 
 clove flavors, and alcohol, used in flavoring creams, 
 jellies, sauces, and in mixed bar drinks and punches. 
 
 CURRY POWDER A yellow powder, of which 
 the principal ingredient is turmeric, a species of 
 ginger; used as a high seasoning for stews and all 
 dishes a rindienne. It can be purchased every- 
 where, ready-prepared in bottles, or the same thing 
 in the form of paste. It is made of slightly varying 
 ingredients; this is a sample of what the curry-fla- 
 vorings are, when put together as wanted by the 
 native cooks of India: "ANGLO-INDIAN FOWL- 
 CURRY Materials required: (i) A small fully 
 grown chicken of about one pound and a half in 
 weight; (2) two ounces of clarified cooking-butter, 
 lard, or olive-oil; (3) three^ medium-sized onions, 
 sliced finely lengthwise; (4) two tablespoonfuls of 
 picked, roasted coriander-seeds ground to a paste 
 with a little water; (5) one teaspoonful of clean ripe 
 cumin-seeds roasted, and ground to a fine pulp with 
 water; (6) one teaspoonful of the large variety of 
 black mustard-seeds reduced to a stiff paste, mixed 
 with water; (7) four large, selected, hot, long-podded, 
 red chillies, preferably fresh, ground to a fine paste; 
 () eighteen or twenty large, black peppercorns, 
 broiled and ground to a paste with water; (9) seven 
 fragrant vendium-seeds of the smallest variety, 
 ground to a very fine powder and mixed with a little 
 water; (10) a piece of fresh turmeric, or a bit of re- 
 vived turmeric rhizome, about an inch in length, 
 ground to a stiff paste; (n) half a clove of fresh 
 garlic, sliced and then mashed finely, or enough 
 pulped garlic to yield about a quarter of a teaspoon- 
 ful; (12) half a lime, or small lemon; (13) one cocoa- 
 nut; (14) one teaspoonful and a half of salt; (15) one j 
 dessertspoonful of moist sugar; (16) sufficient \ 
 water." 
 
 CURRIES Any kind of meat, fish, game, or 
 vegetables, cooked with curry powder, is called a [ 
 curry of that particular kind. CURRY OF LAMB | 
 Some onions are fried brown in butter, then taken j 
 out; a tablespoonful curry powder wetted with 
 water stirred into the onion-butter and cooked 10 
 minutes; meat cut small, an onion, an apple; all 
 stewed in the curry sauce for one or two hours, 
 with broth added if needed. The meat to be tender 
 enough to be eaten with a spoon; browned onions 
 mixed in; served with rice. 
 
 CURRY QUOTATIONS For menus : "When 
 you talk of Ceylon and the picturesque city of Co- 
 lombo and the ancient city of Kandy, your thoughts 
 naturally revert to curry. The prawn curry of the 
 Grand Oriental Hotel in the old Dutch port at Co- 
 lombo is .renowned throughout the East; and they 
 
 CUR 
 
 give you with it in addition to Bombay ducks 
 ' poppedoms,' if that be the right way of spelling 
 the articles in question, something like passovcr- 
 cakes fried in ghee or liquefied butter." " Many of 
 the London clubs have their culinary specialties. 
 Thus, the Oriental, in Hanover Square, has long 
 been celebrated for its curried prawns; the Garrick 
 for its porter-house steaks and marrow -bones; the 
 Junior Garrick for its mutton broth ; the Windham 
 for a dish known as 'all sorts,' named after the I7th 
 Lancers; another club for its tripe and onions; while 
 the grill at the little Beef-steak, over Toole's The- 
 atre, is unique." "The secret of making curried 
 prawns in perfection is to flavor them with tama- 
 rinds." " A little tamarind, scraped apple, or lemon 
 juice may now be added to impart the much-desired 
 sub-acid flavoring, and lastly, a cupful of cocoanut- 
 milk about three minutes previously to dishing up.'' 
 "Colonel Yule, in his 'Glossary of Anglo-Indian 
 Terms,' cites a passage, quoted by Athenjcus from 
 Megathenes, which is said to be the oldest indication 
 of the use of curry in India. The earliest unequiv- 
 ocal mention of it is in the Mahavauso, the earlier 
 chapters of which date from the fifth century, A.D. 
 But it is as precisely referred to in another of the 
 ancient books of Ceylon, the Rajavali, which is, I 
 believe, held to belong, at least in its original form, 
 to the second century, A.D." " Boiled rice should 
 always be served with every kind of curry, and, us a 
 rule, it should be served separate and handed before 
 the curry. The orthodox fashion of helping one's 
 self to curry, is to take a spoonful of rice and place 
 it on a plate, making a well in the center. The curry 
 itself should then be placed in the middle, and the 
 whole eaten with a fork. The rice should be so 
 boiled that every grain is not only tender, but separ- 
 ated from every other grain." "A spoonful of the 
 cocoanut kernel, pounded, gives a very delicate fla- 
 vor to a curry of chicken." "All curries are the 
 better for a suspicion of a sweet aeid taste. The juice 
 of a lime, with moist sugar dissolved in it, answers 
 very well, or a tablespoonful of red-currant jelly 
 and one of chutney, or a tablespoonful of sweet 
 chutney and the juice of a lime or lemon; any of 
 these combinations will give the desired sub-acid 
 flavoring." How TO SERVE " Serve the curry by 
 itself in a side dish, separate from the rice. On2 
 tablespoonful of curry ought to suffice for six table- 
 spoonfuls of rice, and should be partaken of with a 
 dessert-spoon and fork, and not with a knife and 
 fork. A teaspoonful of Burmese Mango Chutney, 
 taken with a plateful of rice and curry as above, 
 will be found very acceptable by most persons. Rice 
 and currv should not be made a principal dish at 
 dinner: its true place on the menu is, without doubt, 
 a final entree." "NABOB CuRRY-Consists of small 
 pieces of minced meat, which are rolled into balls 
 about the size of a marble. These marbles are then 
 floured and fried (if possible in the curry fat) and 
 sent to table with the curry sauce poured round 
 them. SYKABOB CURRY Consists of slices of meat,
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 301 
 
 CUR 
 
 potato, onion and green ginger, stuck on a skewer. 
 These are served up in the curry, thus skewered to- 
 gether. One of the most delicious curYies known is 
 the CINGALESE PRAWN CURRY This dish can be 
 made either from fresh prawns or from canned or 
 potted ones, which are cheaper, but not so good. 
 The Barataria prawns are the best kind canned. 
 In making curry from fresh prawns, the white meat 
 of the prawn is served up in the curry sauce, but be 
 sure and take all the heads off the prawns and 
 pound them in the curry sauce, so as to extract 
 wlr,u may be called the goodness out of the head 
 the little lumps which correspond to the green part 
 of a lobster. VEGETABLE CURRY Is exceedingly 
 nice, and is not so often met with in this country as 
 it deserves. Every kind of vegetable can be used 
 mixed together, and a very nice simple dish can be 
 made by merely opening a tin of macedoins. CUR- 
 RIED SAUSAGES Form a very nice breakfast dish, 
 which simply consists in pouring curry sauce over 
 some fried sausages. CURRIED SARDINES, OR PIL- 
 CHARDS Form an excellent breakfast dish. 
 
 CURRANTS Zante Currants; a kind of small 
 raisins used in fruit cake and puddings. The largest 
 and cleanest are the most economical to buy, as the 
 inferior grades are little else but dirt and stems. To 
 clean currants, they should be washed in a perfor- 
 ated colander, set in a pan of water, and stirred 
 around that the trash may fall through the holes. 
 
 CURRANTS Garden Currants are of three 
 kinds and several varieties; the red and white are 
 nearly alike and are used for the table and for cook- 
 ing and making currant jelly; the black currant is 
 d istinct in flavor and used to a limited extent as a pie 
 * r uit and for wine. These currants only reach per- 
 fection in a moist and cold climate. GREEN CUR- 
 RANT PUDDING Currants before they are ripe 
 picked from stems, filled into a bowl lined with 
 short paste, well sugared, covered with a paste top; 
 tied down in a cloth; boiled an hour or more. RED- 
 CURRANT JELLY Is made by boiling i pint ex- 
 pressed pulp and juice with i Ib. sugar. CURRANT 
 LIQUEUR A cordial; made of 2 Ibs. red currants, 2 
 qts. whisky, thin rind of 4 lemons, ^ oz. ground 
 ginger; let stand 48 hours, then strained through 
 flannel jelly bag; to each quait i Ib. sugar dissolved 
 and boiled to syrup; well mixed; then bottled. ICED 
 CURRANTS Ripe currants sugared over or frosted 
 by dipping in white of egg beaten with little water; 
 then rolling in powdered sugar and drying for the 
 table. Other uses for pies, ices, etc., same as other 
 fruits. 
 
 CUSSY (tie) A name often met with in relation 
 to gastronomical subjects. "The Marquis de Cussy 
 was a notable man enough in his day. It was he 
 who was escorting the Empress Marie Louise back 
 to Vienna when at Parma he heard of Xapoleon's 
 escape from Elba. Planting her there, he retraced 
 his steps immediately and found his master back at 
 the Tuileries, where he himself was an excellent 
 
 cus 
 
 prefect of the palace; but, the Hundred Days once 
 over, he found himself suddenly a pauper, having 
 always managed to combine indifference to his own 
 interests with lavishness to others. This and his 
 charms of manner made him popular, and he pos- 
 sessed that first talent of a born conversationist a 
 lending ear. But he was a born gourmet, too, and 
 fully acted up to Colnet's line : ' Quand on donne 
 a diner, on a toujours raison.' Great cooks struggled 
 for his kitchen, and stayed with him seven years. 
 He gave a dinner once a week, never to more than 
 eleven guests, and it lasted two hours. He cites 
 with approval in his 'Art Culinaire' one of the 
 stories about that very unpleasant person Diogenes, 
 who, seeing a child eating too fast, fetched the boy's 
 tutor a rousing cuff. De Cussy's own rigid rule 
 was to eat moderately and to sip his liquors; and 
 he preached putting down the knife and fork while 
 still hungry, and then taking several glasses of an 
 old wine, munching crisp breadcrust the while. 
 Perhaps these wert some of the reasons why the 
 camel never refused, and explained his 'easily di- 
 gesting a whole red-legged partridge ' on the very 
 day of his death, at the age of seventy-four. Many 
 a well -advised man nowadays would as soon eat 
 Tom Jones' Partridge body and bones; and there 
 have been what a vain world calls nobler deaths, to 
 be sure, and different illustrations of Hamlet's grave 
 dictum that ' the readiness is all; ' still we need not 
 be too exclusive. This particular gourmet had the 
 smooth-skinned, pink complexion of many an old- 
 fashioned London merchant in the daytime, that is; 
 but a clever caricature of him by Dantan, which 
 displays the bust of a heavy-chopped, bloated old 
 gormandizer, with a great Yorkshire pie for ped- 
 estal, must also ^ave been too near the truth, per- 
 haps, after dinner; for one of his sayings to Brillat- 
 Savarin, who would have mirrors in his dining 
 room, was that a man should only look in the glass 
 fasting. After this it would be of no use at all his 
 telling us that he could take up his pen immediately 
 after dinner in full possession of his ideas, if we did 
 not know from his sorry writings that he could not 
 tack two ideas together, and that, whatever his 
 practice was, his theories about cookery were not 
 worth the charcoal for testing them." De Cussy is 
 quoted nowadays occasionally, because he did write 
 of L 'Art Culinaire , and of Car6me, and of his 
 contemporary gourmets and entertainers. " M. de 
 Cussy, who, when young, had been patronized by 
 Marie Antoinette, and who in later years was about 
 the court of Marie Louise, failed to obtain a small 
 place under Louis XVIII till the discriminating 
 monarch was told that the mixture of strawberries, 
 cream, and champagne, which possesses such a re- 
 fined flavor, was the creation of the aged gastro- 
 nome." CONSOMME A LA CUSSY Game broth; 
 royale custards made with 10 yolks, 2 eggs, I pint 
 puree of game and little cream; game meat, mush- 
 rooms and boiled chestnuts served with it. 
 CUSTARD A mixture of milk and eggs, cooked
 
 802 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CUT 
 
 only to boiling- point, generally with sugar and fla- 
 vorings added. The standard rule is S eggs to t 
 qt. milk and 6 oz. sugar; but custard is made with 4 
 eggs to a quart, also with S yolks only; also with 2 
 or 3 eggs and flour or starch to substitute the re- 
 mainder. Custard, whether boiled, steamed or 
 baked, is thickest and perfect only when it reaches 
 the boiling point; with longer cooking it turns thin 
 and separates into curd and water. CUSTARD PUD- 
 DING Firm enough to turn out of mould; made of 
 i pint milk, boiled with stick cinnamon and grated 
 lemon rind, cooled, mixed with 3 yolks and 5 whole 
 eggs well whipped, and sugar. Steamed in mould 
 till set. CUSTARD FLAVORINGS Orange flower 
 water, orange extract, lemon, vanilla and rose, bay 
 leaf, nutmeg, cinnamon, almond. CUSTARD PIE 
 Plate lined with short- paste, filled to the brim with 
 raw custard, baked till set. CUP CUSTARDS Boiled 
 custard, made by pouring boiling milk, sweetened, 
 to whipped eggs, or eggs and starch, and 
 cooking only till about to boil again; filled into 
 custard cups. CHOCOLATE CUSTARD MERINGUES 
 Boiled custard with i oz. chocolate in each quart, 
 filled in cups, whipped whites and sugar on top 
 lightly browned. CUSTARD PUDDING Plain cus- 
 tard baked in a pudding dish. COCOANUT CUSTARD 
 Cocoanut mixed in raw custard to bake or in the 
 hot milk for boiled custards. CUSTARD ROLY-POLY 
 Custard made firm with 12 eggs, steamed, then 
 sliced on a thin sheet of paste; strawberry jam 
 spread upon the custard, all very thin, rolled up in 
 a pudding cloth, steamed ij^ hours; served with 
 sauce. 
 
 CUTLETS Chops, meaning the rib bone chops, 
 veal steaks are, however, called cutlets. There are 
 cutlets proper of lamb, mutton, pork, venison, veal, 
 but not of beef; the cutlets of beef are called entre- 
 coles, steaks and collops or scollops; cutlets of 
 small meats, lobster, and such things are imitations 
 of the shape of cutlets. {See Cotelettes.} 
 
 CUTTLE FISH The octopus, or devil-fish. 
 " Next to whales, probably the most bulkv animals 
 in the sea are the gigantic cuttle-fishes, with which 
 we have recently become acquainted. Of the largest 
 of these the body would be quite equal to an ele- 
 phant. They are not seen often enough to enter a 
 list even of extraordinary foods; but smaller cuttle- 
 fishes are beloved of many men, especially by Itali- 
 ans; and in the sea-shore markets near Naples yon 
 may find tubs full of writhing octopods exposed for 
 sale. When a purchaser arrives and makes a selec- 
 tion the vender adroitly seizes the fish by the back 
 of the neck, the arms twisting and extending in all 
 directions. It is dropped into the scales, and if ap- 
 proved of the salesman gives it a twist, almost turn- 
 ing it inside out, killing or disabling it in a moment. 
 To see a mess of chopped full-grown octopus served 
 with tomato sauce is really trying, When very small 
 the octopus is used as a garnish for fish, and \v hen 
 fried crisp it might be mistaken formacaroni. Neapo- 
 litans come properly by their taste for the cuttle, since 
 
 DAR 
 
 the Latins ate it, and have handed down a recipe for 
 a cephalopod sausage. Pickled, vou may find cut- 
 tle-fish arms, suckers and all, among our fancy gro- 
 ceries; and in San Francisco you may buy tons of 
 preserved cuttles. These are a Chinese preparation 
 of the squid. It is split open, cleaned, spread out 
 flat, and dried and then resembles a Cape Ann cod- 
 fish slitted into shreds at the broad end. Boiled and 
 mixed with seasoned herbs, a popular soup or por- 
 ridge results, the taste of which is mildly that of 
 lobster broth." 
 
 CYGNET Young swan. (See Swan.) 
 
 CYMLING Summer squash. 
 
 D. 
 
 DAB A small flat fish found near the mouths of 
 rivers; good to fry or broil. 
 
 DAIM (Fr.) Deer; fallow deer. COTELETTES 
 DE DAIM Venison cutlets. CUISSOT DE DAIM 
 
 : Leg of venison. 
 
 j DAMSON A black plum of high flavor; much 
 
 i esteemed for cooking purposes. Name from Da- 
 
 ! mascus, whence it came. Formerly called the Da- 
 mascene plum. A very similar plum grows wild 
 in some parts of the southern states. DAMSON 
 
 i CHEESE Pulp of steamed damsons passed through 
 a seive, % Ib. sugar to each quart of pulp, dried 
 
 , down by slow boiling and stirring till it makes 
 
 I damson butter stiff enough to be cut in pieces when 
 cold. Served for dessert, and to be dissolved for 
 tarts and cakes as wanted. PAIN DE PRUNES DE 
 DAMAS A mould of damson cheese, or of marma- 
 lade diluted and set with gelatine. 
 
 DAMP CELLARS If the air of the cellar be 
 damp, it can be thoroughly dried by placing in it a 
 peck of fresh lime in an open box. A peck of lime 
 will absorb 7 Ibs., or more than 3 qt. of water, and 
 in this way a cellar or store-room may soon be dried. 
 DANDELION The well-known plant with 
 vellow flowers which change to thistle-down. The 
 leaves gathered young are among the best of early 
 greens; cooked the same as spinach, with a pinch of 
 
 i soda in the water, drained, chopped and seasoned. 
 DANDELION SALAD The young leaves are eaten in 
 salad in place of endive or lettuce. DANDELION 
 
 i WINE A simple sort of domestic wine made of the 
 petals of the dandelion flower and sugar. DANDE- 
 LION COFFEE The root has been mixed with coffee 
 during the past 25 years, and sold as "dandelion 
 coffee," a hygienic beverage. 
 
 DANTZIC GOLD JELLY Jelly having gold 
 leaf carefully mixed in it to make it sparkle; flavored 
 with Duntzic tfold-uasfer. 
 
 DARIOLE MOULDS Tin or copper moulds of 
 about the size and shape of a common small glass 
 tumbler. They are either plain or fluted, with or 
 without a pattern stamped in the bottom. The name 
 
 1 is rarely used in this country, but the moulds are in 
 use everywhere as charlotte russe moulds of indi-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 303 
 
 DAR 
 
 vidual size, and are used for small steamed pud- 
 dings and for blanc mange and jelly. 
 
 DARIOLES Almost anything that is made 
 shaped, steamed, baked or moulded in a dariole 
 mould is called a dariole. Deep patties of a pastry 
 crust filled with some kind of custard or stiff cream, 
 flavored either with vanilla or chocolate seems to 
 have been the original sort of dariole, which is not 
 as rich as a cheese cake, but nearly the same thing. 
 
 DARNE (Fr.) A thick cut of salmon or stur- 
 geon. DARNE D'ESTURGEON AU FOUR A thick 
 slice of sturgeon baked. 
 
 DATE Fruit of the date palm. DATE PIE 
 Made like squash pie; i qt. milk, 2 Ib. dates, 3 eggs; 
 the dates boiled in the milk and rubbed through 
 strainer. DATES FOR DESSERT The stone removed 
 and a blanched almond put in its place. DATE 
 CREAM Sugared dates; a candy bon-bon. 
 
 DAUPHINES Tartlets; patty pans lined with 
 paste, preserve or jam first; custard on top; baked 
 and then meringued like a lemon pie. 
 
 DECORATION " A few days ago I saw a 
 beautiful exception, which combined simplicity 
 with grace and artistic effect: it was a ham glazed 
 in the usual manner, but decorated only with a large 
 spray of imitation lilies of the valley; the stems 
 and the leaves were cut from cucumber-peel, and 
 the little flowers simulated by cutting thin slices of 
 boiled white of egg to shape. It wi.l be easily 
 understood that the thinly cut cucumber- peel lends 
 itself very kindly to the subject; the jright green 
 color, the fine stems bowed with the weight of the 
 flowers, and the leaves raised and twisted into nat- 
 ural positions, would satisfy a culinary Oscar 
 Wilde. The idea can be easily extended: with the 
 yolk and the white of an egg, heat together and 
 steamed into an extra firm a la royale custard, prim- 
 roses can be imitated. Fuchsias can be done easily 
 by cutting them from long radishes, and lemon-peel 
 might be persuaded to turn itself into a flower of 
 fancy; in all cases, the stems and leaves appropri- 
 ately cut in cucumber- peel." 
 
 DELMONICO PUDDING A corn-starch me- 
 ringue, made of i qt. milk, 4 oz. starch, 4 oz. sugar, 
 5 yolks, i oz. butter, little salt; made up same as a 
 lightly cooked custard; poured in baking dish; mar- 
 malade spread over; meringued with the whites; 
 baked. 
 
 DEMI-GLACE SAUCE The brown coating of 
 the pan, which is the gravy-drippings from baked 
 meat, freed from the grease, dissolved with broth 
 thickened transparently with starch and strained. 
 It is the meat gravy served with it; becomes a clear 
 brown by slow boiling. 
 
 DEVIL-FISH (See cuttle-fish.} "The devil-fish 
 is said to be rapidly multiplying in the waters of 
 San Francisco bay. One of the fearful creatures 
 was exhibited in the San Francisco markets a few 
 days ago and attracted many visitors. The fish was 
 about 9 feet in length and presented a most repulsive 
 
 DIA 
 
 sight. Notwithstanding the latter fact, one of the 
 tentacles was sold to an Italian for food before the 
 monster had been on exhibition 'over an hour. The 
 sons of Italy prize the tentacles most highly, the or- 
 dinary mode of eating them being to fry them or boil 
 them in oil." 
 
 DEVILLED MEATS Broiled or grilled meats 
 variously sauced. DEVILLED KIDNEYS Broiled 
 kidneys with salt and cayenne. DEVILLED HAM 
 Broiled slices of ham with a sauce of mustard, pep- 
 per and chopped pickles. DEVILLED BONES Spare- 
 ribs or chops with Robert sauce. DEVILLED LOB- 
 STER Lobster split lengthwise and broiled in the 
 shell ; served with devil sauce. A DRY DEVIL Leg 
 of turkey or any kind of meat peppered and salted, 
 coated over with made mustard, and broiled. A 
 WET DEVIL Leg of roast turkey, with cuts in it, 
 seasoned with mustard, pepper and salt; broiled; 
 served with devil sauce. 
 
 DEVILLED OYSTERS- Philadelphia specialty. 
 Same plan as devilled crabs; the oysters chopped 
 small, drained, put into thick butter sauce with 
 yolks and parsley, salt, cayenne; baked in oyster- 
 shells with bread-crumbs on top. 
 
 DEVIL SAUCE (/)-Made of 3 tablespoons 
 each butter and meat gravy; large teaspoon each 
 cayenne and sugar; i glass each mushroom catsup 
 and white wine; juice of i lemon; made warm. 
 (z)-Butter, gravy, Harvey's sauce, catsup, Chili 
 vinegar, mustard, glass of port, juice i lemon, cay- 
 enne, black pepper, salt. (j)-Chopped shallots fried 
 in butter, 2 ladles espagnole, i of broth, 2 table- 
 spoons made mustard, Worcestershire and cayenne; 
 strained. 
 
 DEVONSHIRE JUNKET Devonshire, the 
 home of the Devon breed of cattle, is famous for 
 dairy products and for clotted cream. The "junket" 
 is curd and cream: i qt. milk, i tablespoon sugar, 
 vanilla to flavor, a little rennet or rennet powder 
 added, poured into a glass dish, where in a warm 
 place in about 20 minutes it becomes sweet curd. 
 Then a thin layer of clotted cream is spread over it. 
 Eaten with strawberry jam. 
 
 DEVONSHIRE SQUAB PIE A pie made of 
 mutton chops and sliced apples in alternate layers, 
 the apples on bottom first with sugar and spice, 
 meat on them with salt_and pepper; little water, a 
 top crust of paste, baked \% hours. (See squab.) 
 
 DEVONSHIRE CAKE A yeast-raised cake; 
 made up with cream, currants, citron, sugar, saffron, 
 baked like bread in tins. 
 
 DEWBERRY A variety of blackberry which 
 grows prostrate upon the ground; ripens early, well 
 flavored, superior pie fruit. 
 
 DEXTRINE British gum, obtained by boiling: 
 starch, which changes with heat into gum. Used 
 for making various kinds of gum drops, fig pastes, 
 ''Turkish delight," etc. 
 
 DIABLOTINS AU GRUYERE -Paste made
 
 304 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 DIA 
 
 like cheese straws with eggs added, formed in little 
 balls, floured, fried. 
 
 DIABLE SAUCE Devil sauce. 
 
 DIN DON (Fr.V Turkey. DINDE Hen turkey. 
 DINDONNEAU Young turkey. DINDONNEAU A LA 
 DUCHESSE Young turkey roasted, served with a 
 ragout of pieces of tongue, quenelles, green beans 
 and cucumber. DINDON TRUFFE Breast of chick- 
 en, goose liver, bacon and truffles are chopped, 
 seasoned with salt, pepper, and a bay leaf, simmered 
 in stock; 2 doz. whole truffles added, stewed half an 
 hour, with constant stirring. Turkey stuffed with 
 it, sewed up, hung 4 days, covered with slices of ba- 
 con and buttered paper and roasted. Truffles in the 
 sauce. 
 
 DIPLOMATfC PUDDING </)-A creme in a 
 decorated casing of jelly, made of a yolk-of-egg 
 custard with sugar, gelatine and cream mixed in, 
 flavored with brandy and vanilla. A plain mould 
 is coated with wine jelly by turning it about in ice, 
 decorated with candied fruit, the custard creme 
 poured in; solidified on ice, turned out on a folded 
 napkin. (a)-A creme without jelly casing made of 
 a yolk-of-egg custard with gelatine, sugar and 
 cream; a mould in ice decorated with fruit dipped in 
 jelly; a layer of creme poured in; on top of that a 
 layer of sliced sponge cake dipped in maraschino, 
 then candied fruits, then cream etc. Set solid on ice. 
 
 DIPLOMATS SAUCE (/)-Another name for 
 cardinal sauce, made of Bechamel sauce with lob- 
 ster coral or lobster butter reddened, anchovy es- 
 sence, cayenne bits of butter, all well whisked, 
 served with fish, hot. (2)-It is Bechamel sauce 
 flavored with crayfish and crayfish butter. 
 
 DIP SAUCE Sweet diplomate; a pink sugar- 
 and-starch sauce, thick, clear; any flavor. 
 
 DOG-FISH "Dog-fish is not bad, salted. It is 
 sometimes called 'Folkestonte beef," and is much 
 eaten in Lancashire." 
 
 DOMBEY PUDDING Delicate sort of plum 
 pudding, steamed or baked; made of J pt. cream, 
 4 oz. sugar, rind of i lemon, made hot in saucepan 
 and 6 tablespoons bread-crumbs, i spoon flour, 3 of 
 suet, i marrow. Boiled and stirred to paste, then 
 mixed with 2 oz. each of currants, candied orange 
 peel, sultana raisins, 4 eggs, little nutmeg, i glass 
 each wine and rum; served with orange sauce con- 
 taining rum. 
 
 DORY A fish. (See John Dory.) 
 
 DOUCETTE (Fr.) Corn salad; a kind of cress. 
 
 DOUGHNUTS Fried cakes; pieces of sweet- 
 ened bread dough in ring or twisted shapes allowed 
 to rise, then dropped in hot lard and fried light 
 brown. BAKING POWDER DOUGHNUTS i qt. flour, 
 i small cup sugar, lard size of an egg, 2 tablespoons 
 baking powder, 2 cups water or milk. Rolled out, 
 cut in shapes, fried, sugared over when done. 
 
 DOUGH-MIXERS There are machines made 
 
 DRI 
 
 to do the heavy work of mixing dough in large 
 quantities. 
 
 DOUGH TROUGH A long wooden box about 
 18 inches deep and raised 6 inches fiom the floor, 
 made with flaring sides and a moveable partition. 
 Used by all bread makers and needed in all hotels 
 to mix up bread dough in. The lid should be in 
 two halves, not hinged, but removable that half 
 may be used at once as a table. 
 
 DOUGH-RAISERS Various contrivances, the 
 subject of many patents, for keeping bread-dough 
 at as nearly as possible a temperature of So degrees 
 while rising, that the fermentation may be perfect; 
 especially needed in cold weather. Where houses 
 are steam-heated a closet is made for this purpose. 
 A home-made contrivance is a barrel with a pail of 
 hot water set in it, the pan of dough set in the bar- 
 rel above it, and a blanket over all. 
 
 DOVER BISCUITS Made of 6 oz. each sugar 
 and butter, 2 eggs, 12 oz. flour. Like cookies. 
 
 DRAWN BUTTER English name for butter 
 sauce; made bv stirring equal measures of butter and 
 flour together over the fire, adding boiling water 
 sufficient, and beating in more butter at last. 
 
 DRESDEN PATTIES Croustades made like 
 patties, the inside of the rounds of fried bread to be 
 removed and a filling of any kind put in. 
 
 DRINKS Stewards and caterers have to provide 
 for parties: ALE CUP Made of 2 qts. ale, i pt. gin, 
 3 oz. brown sugar, 3 yolks, ground ginger, cinna 
 mon, nutmeg, yolks, etc.; beaten; hot ale poured in. 
 MULLED CLARET Two bottles claret, 4 oz. sugar, 
 rind 2 lemons, 6 cloves, 4 inches cinnamon, i glass 
 brandy; spices and sugar boiled in little water; claret 
 added and made hot; brandy in at last. TOM AND 
 JERRY Five pounds sugar, 12 eggs, \y, teaspoons 
 ground cinnamon, % teaspoon each cloves and all- 
 spice, J glass rum; eggs separated and beaten, 
 mixed again; rum, spice and sugar added; served by 
 taking i tablespoon of the mixture, adding i wine- 
 glass of brandy, and filling up the glass with boiling 
 water. FANNY'S DELIGHT Four ounces sugar in 
 
 1 pt. boiling water, with 4 cloves, % oz. cinnamon 
 and J^ oz. ginger; strained; added to 2 yolks; beaten 
 up, and i glass raisin-wine, I glass ginger-wine 
 added. EGG FLIP Four eggs, with 2 of the whites 
 omitted, beaten up with 2 tablespoons sugar, I pint 
 boiling water added by slow degrees, 2 wine-glasses 
 brandy, i wine-glass rum. WASSAIL BOWL One 
 quart hot ale; nutmeg, ginger, cinnamon, J^ oz. each; 
 % bottle sherry, 2 slices toast, 2 roasted apples, i 
 lemon; sugar to taste. GABE CASE PUNCH Three 
 bitter Seville oranges, roasted to a pale brown color, 
 laid in a heated vessel, i Ib. sugar pressed with them, 
 
 2 bottles warm Burgundy, i pint hot water. LANG- 
 TRY PUNCH One orange stuck full of cloves and 
 roasted before the fire, cut in quarters, i quart hot 
 port wine poured over it, sugar to taste; simmered 
 half an hour. A REVIVER Two yolks in a goblet, 
 with i oz. honey, little essence of cloves, liqueur-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 305 
 
 DRI 
 
 glass of curafao, i pt. hot Burgundy; whisked to- 
 gether; served hot in glasses. COLD MILK PUNCH 
 Half pint tumbler filled with chipped ice, i teaspoon 
 sugar, i wine-glass brandy, i liqueur-glass rum; 
 filled up with milk; shaken; straws. MINT JULEP 
 Large glass, i teaspoon sugar, little water, 3 sprigs 
 mint; all pressed together; mint taken out, % wine- 
 glass brandy, y z liqueur-glass rum, ditto yellow 
 chartreuse; filled up with ice; shaken; then topped 
 with fruit and mint, dash of claret and sugar to fin- 
 ish; straws. JOHN COLLINS Half pint tumbler 
 filled with chipped ice, i teaspoon sugar, juice of J^ 
 lemon, % wine-glass gin; filled up with soda water; 
 straws. LEMON SQUASH Large glass filled with 
 chipped ice, juice of i lemon, \% teaspoons sugar; 
 filled up with soda; stirred; fruit on top, straws. 
 SODA COCKTAIL Large glass half filled with ice, % 
 teaspoon Angostura, % teaspoon sugar; filled up 
 with soda; lemon-peel on top; straws. CLARET 
 PUNCH Half pint tumbler filled with chipped ice, 
 juice of % lemon, I teaspoon sugar, i teaspoon 
 raspberry syrup, claret to fill up; shaken; ripe fruit 
 on top; straws. GIN SLING Half pint tumbler 
 filled with ice, i lemon-glass plain syrup; juice of 
 y z lemon, y 2 glass gin; filled up with soda; slices 
 lemon and orange on top; straws. GIN COCKTAIL 
 Tumbler filled with chipped ice, few drops Angos- 
 tura and plain syrup, y, wine-glass gin; stirred 
 well; slrained off into cocktail glass; piece lemon on 
 top. GIN SOUR Tumbler filled with ice, y 2 tea- 
 spoon sugar, i teaspoon raspberry syrup, juice y z 
 lemon, }4 wine-glass gin; strained into cocktail 
 glass, lemon-slice on top. EGG XOGG ICED Tum- 
 bler filled with chipped ice, i raw egg, i teaspoon 
 sugar, i liqueur-glass brandy, i do. rum; shaken 
 well; strained off into pony tumbler; nutmeg on top. 
 SAM WARD Tumbler filled with chipped ice, 3 or 4 
 drops Angostura, i liqueur-glass green chartreuse; 
 shaken well; strained into cocktail glass. CORPSE 
 REVIVER A long, thin liqueur-glass filled with 
 equal portions noyeau, maraschino and yellow 
 chartreuse, one on top of the other without mixing 
 them; to be taken off at one draught. PRAIRIE 
 OYSTER A wine-glass with y z teaspoon vin- 
 egar, i new-laid egg, little salt, pepper and dash 
 of Worcestershire sauce; to be drunk off raw. 
 GIN PUNCH "At the Garrick Club they serve an 
 excellent gin punch, which, according to Mr. Percy 
 Fitzgerald, is 'brewed' as follows: Pour half a pint 
 of gin on the outer peel of a lemon, then a little 
 lemon juice, sugar, a glass of maraschino, about a 
 pint and a quarter of water, and two bottles of iced 
 soda-water; this makes three pints." ABSINTHE 
 The proper way to serve absinthe au sucrc is thus: 
 Put two lumps of sugar in a strainer which just fits 
 the top of the glass, and let the absinthe trickle 
 slowly through; the water is added afterwards. 
 TIGER'S MILK An Kast Indian morning draught, 
 not generally known. Add the beaten yolks of 3 
 eggs to 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered white sugar, 
 3 cloves, the rind of % lemon, and y 2 pt. of Impe- 
 
 DRI 
 
 rial Crown brandy ; pour over it i qt. of new, warm 
 milk, stirring rapidly, and serve immediately. This 
 is recommended lor those wriotive in malarial dis- 
 tricts, and for delicate persons before breathing the 
 crisp air of autumn or winter. A wineglassful 
 will be sufficient in this climate. SAUTERNE Cur 
 
 1 bottle sauterne, 2 sliced peaches, i liqueur glass 
 noyeau, juice of i lemon, ice, leaves of balm and 
 borage, i bottle soda-water. BURGUNDY CUP 
 
 2 bottles red Burgundy, i pt. port, i gill cherry 
 brandy, juice of 2 oranges and i lemon, a slice of 
 cucumber, sprig of verbena, sugar, ice, 3 bottles 
 seltzer -water. CHAMPAGNE CUP i bottle cham- 
 pagne, i liqueur glass curacao, same of pale brandy, 
 sprig of verbena, slice of cucumber, ice, 2 bottles 
 soda. CLARET CUP (/) i bottle claret, i pt. sherry, 
 i gill port, do. cherry brandy, i lemon, sugar, cu- 
 cumber thin slice, verbena, ice, 3 bottles seltzer 
 water. (aVOne bottle light claret, i glass brandy, i 
 lemon peeled thin, y z pt. water, sugar, sprig of bor- 
 age, some slices of cucumber; in jug well iced. 
 BRANDY CHAMPERELLE One wine-glass each cu- 
 racao, brandy and bitters, with shaved ice. PORT 
 XEGUS One bottle port, peel of i lemon, 2 crushed 
 cloves, grated nutmeg, sugar to taste, i qt. boiling 
 water. CHAMPAGNE COCKTAIL A large lemonade 
 glass half filled with shaved ice, 2 drops each orange, 
 lemon and gentian essences; i tablespoon each or- 
 ange-flower water and syrup; well shaken; i glass 
 champagne added. JERSEY COCKTAIL Large glass 
 with ice, essences, syrup and champagne cider. 
 BRIDAL BOQUET CUP Two quarts thin, clear syrup, 
 y 2 pt. orange-flower water, i pt. lime juice, i table- 
 spoon noyeau; served y 2 glass of this mixture with 
 iced soda and y 2 glass champagne. LIQUEUR Eus- 
 TACHE Large glass half filled with ice, 2 table- 
 spoons syrup, rind of a lemon tied in a knot, juice of 
 y, lemon, i liqueur-glass cognac, J^ glass absinthe; 
 filled up with soda; stirred. BRITISH LION A 
 liqueur-glass Scotch whisky, i tablespoon each 
 cherry-syrup, lime juice and bay rum, peel of J^ 
 lemon in glass filled up with boiling water. CIN- 
 DERELLA CUP One bottle raisin or angelica wine, 
 y pt. strong syrup mixed in a bowl, i qt. lemonade, 
 ice, sprigs of scented verbena. LIQUEUR SUPREME- 
 y pt. each maraschino, kirschwasser and curacao, 
 % pt. strong syrup, i bottle brandy, or champagne. 
 CASK GINGERADE In a lo-gal. keg: 9 gal. syrup i 
 pt. essence ginger, J pt. essence lemon, i oz. yeast, 
 i oz. isinglass; bunged up with cotton 3 days; then 
 corked tight, or bottled and wired. JERSEY LILY 
 JuLEp-Large lemonade-glass half filled with shaved 
 ice, i tablespoon sugar, i wine-glass cognac, i glass 
 champagne, sprays of jessamine or orange flowers, 
 nutmeg, dust of sugar on top. ROSE XECTAR 
 JULEP Lemonade-glass with ice, % glass each rose 
 nectar and cognac; i spoon sugar, a, slices lemon, 
 red rose buds dusted with sugar, rim of glass rubbed 
 with lemon; straws. CHRISTMAS JuLEp-Large lem- 
 onade tumbler, the rim wet with whisky and dipped 
 in powdered sugar to frost it; y 2 filled with ice, i
 
 306 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 DRI 
 
 tablespoon sugar, i spoon maraschino, \% wine- 
 glass whisky, piece lemon-rind, )^ pt. milk; stirred; 
 bay leaf dusted with sugar set in; straws. MOSELLE 
 CUP A I.A PRINCE DE GALLE A punch-bowl made 
 ice-cold; i pt. rye whisky, i bottle pale sherry, 2 
 drops ambergris, i drop musk-essence, 2 tablespoons 
 grated pineapple, spray of verbena; all set on ice for 
 2 hours; then added 2 bottles sparkling Moselle. 
 PUNCH A LA SANDRINGHAM One pint new-made 
 green tea, 4 oz. sugar, 2 tablespoons port-wine jelly 
 dissolved in the hot tea, i lemon sliced in, i bottle 
 whisky, i glass brandy, 3 drops ambergris. YPO- 
 CRAS " 'To make vpocras hit were gret lernynge.' 
 The ' vpocras ' would not be acceptable to a gener- 
 ation which likes the curacao dry. Red wine was 
 the foundation of this drink, and to it there were 
 added ginger, cinnamon, spices of various kinds, 
 sugar-candy and other condiments, according to 
 whether the drink was being brewed for those of 
 high degree or for common people. The butler is 
 to taste it constantly, 'alleway,' the writer declares, 
 and if the result be not perfect, ginger, cinnamon or 
 sugar is to be added until it is all that it should be." 
 BRANDY PUNCH One-half pint water with y Ib. 
 sugar, peel of 2 lemons, little cinnamon, nutmeg, 
 mace, cloves; all simmered, strained, and i bottle 
 brandy, juice of 2 lemons, very hot; set on fire in 
 bowl, and served burning. PHILADELPHIA COOLER- 
 "The latest drink, and the one that is all the rage 
 in Saratoga, is the 'Philadelphia cooler.' It was 
 first made by bartender A. D. Kibbe, who has mixed 
 beverages at the United States for fourteen years; 
 but it can be got at either of the three other first- 
 class bars. As it is made of champagne, and costs 
 something like a dollar a drink, it fitly represents 
 the two main characteristics of the season cham- 
 pagne drinking and extravagant pleasures. There 
 never was so much money on tap at Saratoga as at 
 present, and the interest taken in champagne by the 
 drinkers is phenomenal. With the King of the 
 Dudes backing one brand, Monsieur Lippa treating 
 to another, and a private individual rushing his 
 favorite simply because he believes it better than 
 any other and does not want the fact overlooked, 
 there has been enough wine drank to float a ship. 
 The drink called the 'cooler' is prepared by half- 
 filling two big glasses with cracked ice, putting in a 
 little mint and two lumps of sugar, pour half a pint 
 of champagne on top, and squeezing the mint with 
 a crusher or mixer until its essence pervades the 
 champagne. After a night spent in drinking coolers 
 the average dude can find his way to bed if one of 
 the porters steers him correctly." CHAMPAGNE 
 CUP (Saratoga) One bottle champagne, i qt. -bottle 
 German seltzer-water, 2 oranges sliced, sprigs of 
 balm and borage, i oz. sugar; in a covered jug im- 
 bedded in ice for I hour; then strained into decanter. 
 CIDER Cur-One quart cider, i liqueur-glass brandy, 
 i pt. seltzer-water, i oz. sugar, sprigs of balm and 
 borage; set in ice for an hour; decanted. "ELEC- 
 TRICAL COCKTAIL Is the latest American drink. 
 
 DRI 
 
 According to Electrical Review, a flexible lead from 
 the electrolier ends in a platinum curl. A trifle of 
 sugar is added to the fluid, the platinum curl lowered 
 into it, and the current turned on to make the curl 
 red-hot. A small amount of the alcohol and sugar 
 is carbonized, and the resulting burned-sugar flavor 
 is said to be very delicate. It promises to be a fash- 
 ionable winter-beverage, and can be made cold or 
 hot." "IDLEWILD TODDY Is composed of half a 
 lemon, half an orange, sugar, chopped ice, whisky, 
 and just a dash of Santa Cruz rum. It is flavored 
 with Benedictine cordial; then shaken and served in 
 ice." FRUIT PYRAMID Half a lemon, i tablespoon 
 each of lime juice and pineapple juice; 4 oz. sugar, 
 (no liquors), ice; filled up with rich milk; shaken. 
 THE STEiNWAY-Sugar, whisky, ice and Apollinaris 
 water. THE DAISY Five drops Angostura bitters, 
 lump of sugar rubbed on a lemon, I liqueur-glass 
 port wine to dissolve sugar, shaved ice; filled up 
 with ginger ale; shaken. THE MAiTRANK-German 
 specialty. A good-sized bunch of woodruff leaves 
 in a bowl, with a bottle of still hock steeped an hour, 
 2 or 3 oranges sliced in, i liqueur-glass each char- 
 treuse, maraschino and curacao, i bottle sparkling 
 wine, sugar to taste; served as a cold punch. ''TiiE 
 PKINCE OF WALES-Having invented the long drink 
 called 'lemon squash,' has now addtd to his laurels 
 by inventing a 'short drink;' consisting of rye 
 whisky, powdered sugar, ice, a small piece of pine- 
 apple, some Angostura bitters, a little lemon-peel, a 
 few drops of maraschino and a splutter of cham- 
 pagne." "EGG-LEMONADE Is a new beverage 
 that barkeepers find it pay to include in their drink - 
 list: Put into a pint-tumbler a teaspoonful of pow- 
 dered sugar, the juice of i lemon, a little water and 
 i egg; fill up with finely broken ice; then shake rap- 
 idly and briskly in a cobbler glass. It may be im- 
 bibed through straws." MILK SHAKE Shaved ice, 
 sugar, milk; any flavoring as desired; well shaken 
 to make foam. CHARLIE PAUL Half-pint tumbler 
 filled with shaved ice, i tablespoon raspberry syrup, 
 i liqueur-glasss brandy; filled up with new milk; 
 shaken ; straws. MILK PUNCH Tumbler with ice, 
 i teaspoon sugar, I wine-glass brandy, i liqueur- 
 glass rum; filled up with new milk; shaken; nutmeg 
 on top; straws. WASHINGTON PuNCH-Large glass 
 of shaved ice, i teaspoon sugar, % liqueur-glass no- 
 yeau, % wine-glass brandy; filled up with new milk; 
 shaken; powdered sugar on top; straws. ROYAL 
 AQUARIUM MILK- PUNCH- Six eggs, the yolks beaten 
 with 8 oz. sugar: the whites whipped and then mixed 
 in with i wine-giass curacao, i bottle brandy, i bot- 
 tle rum, 2 qts. new milk, 3 bottles soda; well mixed; 
 enough for 25. ATHENJEUM CLARET CUP "The 
 following recipe for claret-cup is the one adopted at 
 the Athenaeum Club: The rind of half a lemon, % 
 pint hot water poured on two ounces of sugar and 4 
 sprigs of borage; let it cool; add a bottle of good 
 claret and i bottle of soda-water; put in y z Ib. of ice 
 and flir thoroughly; withdraw borage and serve. It 
 will be observed that brandy or other liqueur is stu-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 307 
 
 DRU 
 
 diously excluded." HOT PuNCH-Foui ounces loaf- 
 sugar rubbed OK a large lemon, juice of the lemon 
 squeezed to the sugar in a bowl, i pint boiling water, 
 added, J^ pt. each rum and brandy, % teaspoon 
 grated nutmeg. BEER CUP One quart porter or 
 bottled beer, i teaspoon moist sugar, i slice toast, 
 nutmeg, ginger; steeped together ^ hour. POUSSE 
 L'AMOUR One-half glass maraschino in a wine 
 glass, i yolk on top, % glass vanilla cordial next, % 
 glass brandy on top; not mixed or broken. POUSSE 
 CAFE Five drops raspberry syrup in a wine-glass, 
 % glass each of maraschino, curacao, chartreuse 
 and brandy; the five colors not to be mixed or broken 
 till drank. CHAMPERELLE One-third each brandy, 
 maraschino, Angostura; in strata; not mixed. 
 BRAND SCAFFA One quarter each of raspberry 
 syrup, maraschino, green chartreuse and brandy; 
 in strata; not mixed. GOLDEN SLIPPER Half 
 wine-glass of yellow chartreuse, i yolk, J^ 
 wine-glass Danziger goldwasser; not mixed, nor 
 broken. SHERRY FLIP Glass half-filled with ice, 
 
 1 teaspoon sugar, i egg, ij glasses sherry; 
 shaken; nutmeg on top. SHERRY COBBLER 
 A tumbler of shaved ice, i tablespoon sugar, piece 
 of lemon peel, essence of cloves, i tablespoon port, 
 
 2 glasses pale sherry; shaken, pineapple and orange 
 slices and mint added; straws. HARI-KARI Glass 
 half filled with ice, i teaspoon sugar, lemon juice, 
 i wine-glass whisky, filled with vichy water, fruits 
 of the season on top. WHISKY CRUST A i table- 
 spoon gum syrup, 4 drops Angostura, juice of l /z 
 lemon, J liqueur glass maraschino, J glass whisky, 
 J glass shaved ice, mixed, poured into glass, the 
 edge frosted with sugar." ARCHBISHOP Tumbler 
 with shaved ice, i tablespoon sugar, juice of J 
 lemon and % orange, % liqueur glass rum, filled up 
 with Burgundy, stirred; straws. {See hot brews, 
 tuines, spirits.) 
 
 DRUM . FISH Southern sea fish; like the black 
 grouper, weight from i to 8 or 10 pounds; so named 
 because shoals of them butt against vessels, wooden 
 piers, etc., making a drumming noise. 
 
 DRY BREAD Pieces thoroughly dried, crushed 
 and sifted form the bread -crumbs used for bread- 
 ing and frying. 
 
 DUCHESS CRUSTS-Small cubes of bread fried 
 brown, served with soup. 
 
 DUCHESS LOAVES Ancient name of cream 
 puffs. 
 
 DUCHESS POTATOES Potato mashed with 
 yolk of egg and salt, made into flat ornamental 
 shapes, egged over, baked; to serve with fish and 
 for garnish. 
 
 DUCK TOULOUSE DUCK "As every restaurant 
 of any note in Paris, so does every town in Frar\ce, 
 pique itself on some particular dish. So it is that the 
 citizens of the different towns temporarily located in 
 Paris meet together on fixed and solemn occasions to 
 partake of the dish of their town. Now ask a Tou- 
 lousian what, next to the cholera, his home is cele- 
 
 DUC 
 
 brated for, and he will answer you, probably, as he 
 answered me, 'Canard a la mode de Toulouse.' Do 
 you want to know how to make it ? Take a young 
 duck, bone it; now take half a pound of calf's liver, 
 minced, the duck's liver and heart, a quarter of a 
 pound of minced calf's liver-fat, two handfuls of 
 grated bread-crumbs, two eggs, some parsley 
 minced up with a suggestion of garlic and a little 
 onion, minced and fried in butter. Mince all these 
 ingredients up together. Fill the duck up with this 
 stuffing, sew it up, wrap it up in a napkin, tying 
 the ends together, plunge it into its native element, 
 boiling, and let it cook for an hour or an hour and a 
 quarter, boiling hard all the time. When the water 
 has run off (as it is proverbial it will do), serve it 
 with a piquant sauce, and agree with me that Tou- 
 louse was not built in vain." ROUEN DUCK 
 When full grown will often surpass the Aylesbury 
 in weight, but it does not come so early to perfec- 
 tion, nor is its flesh so delicate as a duckling. But 
 as an autumnal duck it has no fellow. When fully 
 grown it should be hung till tender, and then dressed 
 as a wild duck and served with port-wine sauce or 
 with the bigarrade or Seville orange sauce. SAUTE 
 DE CANETON AUX MORILLES The ducklings cut 
 up as for a stew, the legs with 2 onions stewed 
 gently, the breast pieces added and cooking con- 
 tinued, some morel -mushrooms added, i ladle meat 
 gravy and some glaze; the onions taken out and 
 parsley and lemon added. CANARD A LA PUREE 
 VERTE Duck cut up and stewed in broth with 
 little garlic, onions, thyme, basil, parsley, bay leaf, 
 salt, pepper; pint of green peas boiled and passed 
 through a seive, duck liquor also drained and added 
 to the puree of peas, reduced or thickened with 
 butter and starch, poured over the pieces of duck. 
 BRAISED DUCK Ducks fried in a pan with lard un- 
 til the outside is brown; taken up and flour stirred 
 in the pan and broth or water to make thin gravy, 
 vegetables, herbs and seasonings added, ducks put 
 in and simmered in the gravy 2 hours. SAVORY 
 DUCK Duck cut up, bacon and butter fried to- 
 gether and flour added, broth to make thin gravy, 
 onion, herbs and seasonings. Pieces of duck fried in 
 butter separately, then put into the gravy and stewed 
 an hour; gravy strained; served with peas. CA- 
 NARD A L'ITALIENNE Stuffed with liver and bacon, 
 mixed herbs, truffles cut into dice, all thickened 
 with yolks, roasted, served with Italian sauce. 
 FILLETED DUCK A duck roasted % hour, the meat 
 cut from the breast in long, neat slices, laid in a 
 bright saucepan with brown gravy, highly seasoned, 
 and i glass port; simmered gently 15 minutes; served 
 on a border of mashed potatoes, with peas in center 
 and gravy over the duck. STEWED DUCK AND 
 TURNIPS Whole duck browned in butter, cut tur- 
 nips fried in same butter; thin sauce made in the 
 pan with herbs and seasonings, dnck simmered in 
 till tender; served with the turnips around and gravy 
 strained over. DUCKLINGS WITH TOMATO SAUCE 
 jYoung ducks filled with bread stuffing, placed in a
 
 308 
 
 THE bTEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 jaking pan with plenty of strained tomatoes, pep- 
 per, salt, minced onion and butter, cooked quickly 
 in oven hot enough to brown them; sauce rubbed 
 through a seive, made hot again, served with the 
 ducks. STEWED DUCKS AND OLIVES The duck 
 browned in butter, gravy made in the pan with 
 herbs and seasonings, duck simmered in it till ten- 
 der, gravy strained and stoned olives added. SAI.MI 
 OF DUCK Roast duck and giblet sauce; the duck 
 cut up after roasting and simmered in the gravy 
 with the giblets and a glass of wine and the juice 
 of i lemon; garnished with croutons. GARNISH 
 FOR DUCKLING The common vegetable garnish 
 for duckling is green peas or sometimes cresses; 
 but try also cooked endive or celery, turnips browned 
 in butter, and almost any kind of salad. ROAST 
 DUCK "The great secret in cooking them success- 
 fully lies in the basting, which should be very fre- 
 quent and thorough. Fill the carcase with stuffing; 
 secure the legs to the sides, so that the breast may 
 plump up well; dredge it lightly with flour, and 
 baste it continuously from the time it begins to cook. 
 Just before it is done (a good-sized duck will take 
 from three quarters of an hour to an hour) dredge it 
 again lightly with flour, as it will then froth up and 
 look plump ; have a good brown gravy ready to serve 
 with it, but do not pour it over the duck." CANARDS 
 SAUVAGES EN SALMIS Wild ducks cut up in salmis 
 sauce. CANARDS SAUVAGES A LA BIGARADE Cut 
 up in orange sauce. FILETS DE CANETONS SAUVA- 
 GES A LA SYRIENNE Breasts of wild ducks with 
 olives in brown sauce; served with alternate fried 
 croutons, spread with a paste of the duck livers and 
 butter. SARCELLES A LA PUREE DE CHAMPIGNONS- 
 Teal cut in joints; braised; served with a pure of 
 mushrooms. TURBAN DE FILETS DE SARCELLES A 
 LA TOULOUSE Breasts of teal in a circle with fumet 
 of game sauce, pickled mushrooms, etc. MALLARD 
 DUCKS A LA PROVENCALE Stuffed, roasted; served 
 with their own gravy and shallot sauce. MALLARD 
 DUCKS A L'AMERICAINE The ducks roasted about 
 35 minutes; carved; best pieces kept warm; sauce 
 made of the carcases with herbs and seasonings; 
 port wine and currant jelly added; poured over the 
 pieces of ducks. ROAST DUCK, APPLE SAUCE 
 Tame ducks plain roasted; apple sauce served with 
 them when carved. DUCK PIE Cold raised pie, 
 made by lining a raised-pie case or mould with short 
 paste, filled with sausage meat and boned ducks; 
 baked 2 hours. DUCK IN JELLY Jelly made of 
 calves' feet, boned ducks simmered in it until ten- 
 der; made up in decorated mould lined with jelly 
 and filled in with duck and jelly; cold like a galan- 
 tine. RED-HEAD DUCK Cooked like Cam-as-back, 
 which see. " Should you wish to eat a wild duck in 
 perfection, proceed in the following manner: Hav- 
 ing roasted the bird for about twenty-five minutes 
 before a brisk fire, let it be sent to table with a rich 
 gravy. A spirit-lamp supporting a deep silver dish 
 should be placed before the carver. Pour in this dish 
 three glasses of port wine, a good pinch of cayenne 
 
 EEL 
 
 pepper, a sprinkle of salt, the juice of a lemon, and 
 some of the gravy. The duck having been carved, 
 the pieces are rolled in the boiling preparation and 
 handed around in the hot dish to the ' 
 
 DUMPLINGS Balls of flour-dough; .sometimes 
 having fruit inclosed; boiled or baked. EGG DUMP- 
 LINGS Soft dough as if for fritters dropped into 
 boiling water or soup; to be eaten with meat or with 
 sweet sauce. GERMAN DUMPLINGS Dampfnitdeln; 
 pieces of light-bread dough dropped into boiling 
 water, or cooked by steaming; eaten with soup, meat 
 stews, or with fruit sauce. SUET DUMPLINGS One 
 pound flour, J Ib. suet, salt; mixed into soft dough, 
 tied in a bag, or dropped in water; cooked 2 hours. 
 
 DUNDEE CAKE Good, plain fruit cake; made 
 of i Ib. each sugar, butter and eggs; ij Ibs. flour; 
 J Ib. each citron, sultanas and stoned raisins; i gill 
 brandy. To be true to the name must be in shallow 
 pans, with caraway comfits and sugar on the sur- 
 face. 
 
 D'UXELLES SAUCE (/)-Made of i pt. veloute, 
 glass of white wine, and beef extract ; mushrooms, 
 red tongue and parsley chopped fine and mixed in. 
 (2)-White sauce with chopped ham, mushrooms, 
 parslev, etc. ; used in a thick state for coating cutlets, 
 etc., before breading them to fry. D'Uxelles was 
 the name of a French general. 
 
 E. 
 
 EAU (Fr.) Water. EAU DE VIE Brandy. 
 GLACE EAU DE FRAISES Strawberry water ice. 
 
 EAU DE BARBADES We had intended to 
 give Martin's views on wines, (1739) including that 
 of Xuitz, "forthe health," and that of Hai, as the 
 best in Champagne; whence also cameaTokai, and 
 a wonderful Bon-chretien pear. Liqueurs, too, 
 would claim a few words, were it only to wonder 
 whether Eau de Barbades could be anything else 
 but Jamaica rum jEsquibar was clearly usquebaugh; 
 and eau-de- vie d'Irlande smells of potheen a mile off. 
 
 ECARLATE (Fr.) Scarlet, with red tongue, or 
 corned beef. 
 
 ECHIXEE (Fr) Chine. ECHIXEE DE PORC 
 ROTIE Roast chine of pork. 
 
 ECCLES CAKES Baker's shop pastry; rounds 
 of puff short paste containing a filling of currants 
 and brown sugar, flavored; sugar on top. 
 
 ECOSSAISE (a 1') In Scottish style. 
 
 EELS Found in sluggish streams and mill 
 ponds; plentifnl in countries where the farms are di- 
 vided by dykes or ditches and where ponds abound; 
 but not in general use in this country. LIXLITH- 
 GOW EELS The celebrated "Linlithgow" recipe for 
 coojiing eels: Kill, clean, and rub them well with 
 salt, slit them up belly-way, and remove the hone. 
 Next, wash well and dry, then cut into 4- inch 
 lengths; dredge well with flour. Dip the pieces in 
 a thickish batter made of melted butter and yolk of 
 I egg, seasoned to taste with salt, cayenne, and a
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 309 
 
 EEL 
 
 m'r.ce of pulley, s-ige and shallot. Roll in bread- 
 crumbs twice over, then broil on a clear but slow 
 're till well done. Serve with either melted butter 
 or anchovy sauce. SKINNING EELS The great cul- 
 inary artist, Ude, gives the following directions for 
 the skinning of eels: "Take some live ones, throw 
 them into the fire, and, as they are twisting and 
 turning about on all sides, lay hold of them with a 
 towel in your hand, and skin them." That mode 
 certainly appears to us singularly cruel. Dr. Kitch- 
 ener endeavored to have eels killed in as humane a 
 manner as possible. "With a sharp-pointed skew- 
 tr," he says, "pierce the spinal marrow through the 
 hack part of the skull; life will instantly cease." 
 Another cook says : " Dip all over for an instant in 
 boiling water; then skin." Another says: "Stun 
 them with a blow upon the head, cut an incision 
 around the neck, catch the edge of the skin, holding 
 by a cloth, and pull it off." SPITCHCOCKED EELS 
 Large eels split, bone taken out, cut in lengths, 
 seasoned, breaded, fried, sauce, or butter and lemon. 
 STEWED EELS For ordinary tables they are not 
 skinned. "The present consumption of eels in Lon- 
 don aggregate about 1,650 tons a year, value 130,- 
 ooo. It is estimated that some 24,000 regular custom- 
 ers contract for their supplies of this fish, and sell 
 them again retail. The London stewed eel trade is 
 in fact a considerable one, and the enterprising 1 , 
 though for the most part humble, caterers engaged 
 in it render essential service to the poorer classes by 
 supplying at all hours and at very low figures this 
 highly nutrious food in a cooked condition. Some 
 of the large stewed eel vendors use a ton of fish 
 weekly. The great bulk of the eels consumed in 
 London, whether in the form of the aristocratic eel 
 a la Tartare, and a la Poulette, or the more ple- 
 beian eel soup and eel pies, conies either from the 
 Fens or from Holland and Germany." ANGUILLES 
 A LA BROCHE Roasted eels. A large eel, the head 
 left on, skinned, the back larded wilh small strips 
 pork, steeped in seasoned marinade 3 hours, skew- 
 ered into oval ring shape, roasted or baked, shallot 
 sauce. ANGUILLES AU SOLEIL Cut in large pieces, 
 fiist boiled in wine, water and vegetables, then 
 breaded and fried. ANGUILLES EN RAGOUT Stewed 
 and served in the sauce with wine. ANGUILLES A LA 
 MINUTE In pieces, boiled in salted water, served 
 with maitre d' hotel sauce and potatoes. ANGUILLES 
 A LA POULETTE Cut in pieces, stewed with wine, 
 broth, mushrooms, shallots, mace, salt, cayenne; 
 liquor strained and made yellow with yolks; lemon 
 juice added. ANGUILLES EN MATELOTE Stewed 
 with oysters, onions, parsley, mushrooms etc. AN- 
 GUILLES A LA OKLY Split, boned, cut in long pieces, 
 dipped in batter, fried; with rings of dry-fried 
 onions. ANGUILLES A L' ECOSSAISE In Scottish 
 style; cut up and salted for an hour; washed, 
 stewed in broth with vegetables and herbs; liquor 
 strained, thickened with flour; squares of buttered 
 toast to serve it on. ANGUILLES A L* ANGLAISE 
 Thin buttered sauce made with herbs, little lemon 
 
 EGG 
 
 peel, salt; cut up eels stewed in it; parsley and 
 lemon. STEWED EELS Cut in lengths, stewed in 
 water with salt and pepper, thickened with flour; 
 chopped parsley added at serving. EEL PIE Pieces 
 rolled in flour which is seasoned, placed in a dish 
 lined with paste, broth poured in; covered with top 
 crust, baked an hour. ANGUILLES A LA TAR- 
 TARE Eels full length skewered and tied into ring-- 
 shape, parboiled in seasoned broth, taken up, double 
 breaded, fried in wire basket, served with tartare 
 sauce in center of the ring; garnished. ANGUILLES 
 A LA CENDRE Eels cooked in the coals. Cleaned, 
 coiled up, seasoned, wrapped in buttered paper, 
 covered with embers and ashes in the open fire-place; 
 paper removed, served with butter and bread. EEL 
 SOUP Made of eel partly fried in butter, with broth, . 
 wine, tomatoes, flour, etc. ; eels and toast served in it. 
 EEL A L' IZAAK WALTON In spite of the prejudice 
 against eels, they make an excellent pie, and were 
 for centuries thought fit for royal banquets and 
 monastic tables. If eels went into monastic refec 
 tories, they have a brevet for any other dining-room. 
 Eels are equally good fried, stewed, or roasted. For 
 a recipe tor the latter we refer our readers to 
 Izaak Walton's charming book; it is one he recoil- 
 mends by the strong statement, "that when he gets 
 an eel dressed according to it, he wishes it were as 
 long and as big as the eel caught in Peterborough 
 River in 1667 a yard and three-quarters long." 
 TURBAN DE FILETS D' ANGUILLES, SAUCE PERIG- 
 EUX Eels split and boned, cut into 4 inch lengths, 
 flattened; a turban mould or deep cake mould lined 
 with fish forcemeat containing truffles and mush- 
 rooms; fillets put in upright- way, center filled with 
 forcemeat, steamed an honr, turned out; sauce of 
 fried truffles in Bechamel, truffles garnish and 
 prawns. 
 
 EEL-POUT Cooked same as eels. 
 
 EGGS " Though many, I own, are the evils 
 they've brought us, And royalty's here on her very 
 last legs, Yet who can help loving the nation that 
 taught us Six hundred and eighty -five ways to dress 
 eggs!" That is what Tom Moore had to say in 
 favor of France, and it shows that the invention of 
 new ways of cooking eggs is a very old pastime. 
 Some years ago a book was advertised in this coun- 
 try which gave recipes for 700 ways of cooking 
 eggs and [fish ; perhaps, however, it was rather too 
 much of a: good thing, for it has dropped out of 
 sight. That it was an old pursuit even in Moore's 
 day is apparent from a review of a once famous 
 cookery book in three volumes that was published 
 in 1739, in Paris, of course, by one Marin, the Ca- 
 reme of his day, the leader in a new school of cook- 
 ery. " Marin was very strong on eggs after meat, 
 he averred, the most nourishing, assimilable and 
 healthy of foods; the poor shared them with the 
 rich, and the whole with the invalid. He therefore 
 gave endless ways of cooking them, and an infinity 
 of omelettes. He even printed the menus of a din- 
 ner for twelve and a supper for seven, each of four
 
 310 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 EGG 
 
 courses, and all wholly and solely of eggs. The 
 dishes include^ skewered eggs, meringues of eggs 
 eggs as sole and as whiting, a hot pie of fresh eggs 
 which would lead one to fear they were not all no,, 
 but rather suited to the palate of the city dame in 
 the old play, who liked the whites 'of a delicate 
 blue." She ought to have married the man who pre 
 ferred his potatoes 'with a bone in them.' We 
 light also upon eggs 'a la grand'mere,' the mode 
 of preparing which is not given perhaps, it mighl 
 be surmised, for obvious reasons; but no, all pre 
 conceived notions on the subject must be abandoned, 
 because the dish figures as a hot entremets. The 
 dinner contained twenty and the supper nineteen 
 dishes of eggs, and the effect ought to have been 
 to excite the state of mind shown by the parson in 
 old Joe, who dined with the miserly squire who had 
 a warren, and whose grace after meat ran : 
 Of rabbits roast and rabbits boiled, 
 Of rabbits cooked and rabbits spoiled, 
 Of rabbits young and rabbits old, 
 Of rabbits hot and rabbits cold, 
 Of rabbits tender and rabbits tough, 
 The Lord be praised we've had enough." 
 
 CEurs A LA RELIGIEUSE Convent eggs; hard- 
 boiled eggs cut in slices while they are hot, and 
 covered with softened butter mixed with grated 
 cheese and pepper. CEurs A L'APPETISSANTK 
 Hard-boiled eggs cut in halves, the yolks taken out, 
 pounded with anchovies and butter, returned to the 
 whites, smoothed over, decorated. EGGS AU 
 BAIN-MARIE "Experiment by stewing all kinds 
 of animal food in the bain-marie, and comparing the 
 result with stewing in boiling or simmering water. 
 A very simple and instructive experiment may be 
 made by cooking an egg in a glue-pot or milk- 
 scalder. Allow 6 or 7 mi.iutes, instead of 3%. A 
 hen's egg cooked thus will be as tender and delicate 
 as a plover's egg cooked as usual in boiling water. 
 Besides this tenderness there is another practical 
 advantage. A minute or two more or less, or even 
 three or four minutes more, will not spoil the egg. 
 The effect of overdoing an egg at the proper cook- 
 ing temperature, i6oto 180 degrees, is rather curi- 
 ous. The white remains tender, but the yolk hard- 
 ens, becomes harder than the white. I discovered 
 this in making experiments on eggs. I found that 
 the yolk of a hen's egg coagulates at a lower tem- 
 perature than the white. In ordinary cooking this 
 does not show itself, as the heat is not allowed suf- 
 ficient time to penetrate the yolk. When I warmed 
 an egg thoughout to about 140 degrees, and kept it 
 at that temperature during several hours, the yolk 
 became quite hard, while the white was only 
 jellied." ROCK WORK, CEuFS A LA NIEGE 
 Snow eggs with custard; made by separating eggs, 
 making a yellow custard with the yolks, whipping 
 the whites firm with little sugar, and poaching by 
 dropping spoonfuls in boiling milk, the poached 
 white " rock work " being built up in the bowl of 
 custard. SAVORY EGGS Eggs beaten in a bowl 
 with little chopped green thyme, salt, pepper, 
 
 EGG 
 
 scrambled in plenty of butter. EGGS A I/ANNECY 
 Hard-boiled eggs cut in halves, yolks in a sauce- 
 pan mixed with mushrooms, parsley, salt, pepper, 
 onions and butter, raw eggs to bind, put hack in 
 whites. MAYONNAISE EGGS Hard-boiled eggs, 
 ends cut off, yolk extracted, pounded with oil, 
 vinegar, mustard, salt, cayenne, put back, eggs 
 set on end in dish; garnished with salad. EGG 
 SHELLS "The peripatetic 'shows,' which move 
 from fair to fair in the country, often include a 
 shooting-gallery, the targets whereof are egg-shells. 
 Inquiry has elicited the fact that tnese are collected 
 in thousands from hotels and restausants, the chefs 
 of which establishments have them blown instead of 
 breaking them in the ordinary way." SCRAMBLED 
 EGGS WITH ASPARAGUS Tips of asparagus cooked 
 separately and buttered are mixed in scrambled eggs 
 when just done. EGGS FOR THE BRAVE " Xo 
 honest appetite ever yet rejected an egg in some 
 guise. It is nutriment in the most portable form 
 and in the most concentrated shape. After the vic- 
 tory of Muhldorf, when the Kaiser Ludwig sat at a 
 meal with his burggrafs and great captains, he de- 
 termined on a piece of luxury ' one egg to every 
 man, and two to the excellently valiant Schwepper- 
 man '." EGGS WITH HAM-TOAST Potted ham with 
 butter spread on toast; a poached egg on each slice. 
 EGG PYRAMIDS- The yolks and whites separated, 
 each yolk dropped in a very small metal shell or 
 butter-chip previously buttered; the whites whipped 
 quite firm, a spoonful placed on each yolk, shaped 
 up to a cone; baked in slack oven. E.GG ZEPHYRS 
 Little steamed puddings of eggs and butter; made 
 by beating 6 oz. melted butter into 6 eggs and 2 oz. 
 sugar; flavor; sauce. EGG SOUFFLES A LA REINE 
 Whipped whites and sugar in small custard cups, 
 steamed, the center scooped out, filled with rich 
 yellow custard; macaroon-crumbs on top. EGG 
 PANCAKES Made of eggs and butter and a very 
 little cream; 6 eggs to 4 oz. butter, i oz. cream, salt; 
 cooked as a pancake; lemon-juice and sugar over. 
 EGGS AND BACON Sir Kenelm Digby, in his Closet 
 of Cookery (1669), says: "A couple of poached eggs, 
 with a few callops of pure bacon, are not bad for 
 breakfast, or to begin a meal." EGG SANDWICH 
 Hard-boiled eggs pounded white and yolk together 
 in a mortar with butter, salt, pepper, cayenne; 
 spread on thin buttered bread. OZuFS MOLLETS A 
 LA BOUCHERE Soft eggs with meat. Half pound 
 each of bacon, tenderloin beef and small button on- 
 ons; the meat cut to the size of the onions; all fried 
 n butter; brown sauce added, herbs, seasonings; 5^ 
 b. mushrooms fried ; poached eggs served on top. 
 DEVILLED EGGS- Hard-boiled eggs cut in halves; 
 the yolks pounded with potted (devilled) ham, pep- 
 >er, mustard and oil, or butter, and lemon juice; 
 put back in whites; served with salad. EMPERORS- 
 Sliced hard eggs on rounds of bread; a split sardine 
 coiled on the egg; chopped egg in center of sardine; 
 stoned olive on top. EGG SOUP Yolks in a soup 
 tureen; boiling clear soup beaten in; vermicelli, or
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 EGG 
 
 rice, separately cooked, mixed in. CEuFS A L'Au 
 RORE Hard-boiled eggs chopped in cream sauce, to 
 be thick enough to keep form on the dish; part of the 
 yolks reserved and rubbed through seive to yellow 
 over the surface; made hot to serve. ORLEANS 
 CLUB EGGS "An established luncheon dish, young 
 in fame, but firmly established and approved since 
 the first trial, is a dish of plattered eggs whose 
 golden yolks are set in a red-brown semi-fluid of 
 tomato puree and shredded anchovies." EGG SALAD- 
 Sliced eggs, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, vinegar, 
 oil, or with salad dressing. CEurs A LA TRIPE 
 Sliced eggs in onion-cream sauce. CEurs FAR- 
 cis Stuffed eggs. Hard-boiled, cut in halves, 
 yolks mixed with grated ham and parsley; but- 
 ter over in the oven; served on croutons. EGG 
 SAUSAGES Sausage skins are filled with the 
 same mixture as for "omelet with fine herbs," in a 
 raw state, filled with a funnel, divided into sausage 
 lengths with twine, carefully poached without boil- 
 ing; skin taken off when cold, warmed in butter, 
 served ornamentally with a vegetable. CEuFS A 
 L'ARLEQUIN Many-colored. Poached eggs on 
 toast, sprinkled with greeu parsley, red ham, black 
 truffles, all chopped; brown sauce around in the 
 dish. CEuFS A LA DUXELLES Poached eggs cut 
 when cold like biscuits with a round cutter, coated 
 with Duxelies sauce, breaded, egged, and breaded 
 again, fried. EGGS STUFFED WITH NOUILLES AND 
 HAM Hard-boiled split, yolks' removed, whites 
 filled with mixture of fine -cut nouilles mixed with 
 minced ham; cooked yolks like vermicelli through 
 a seive on top. EGG ROLLS Minced eggs and 
 smoked haddock or other fish, mixed with mayon- 
 naise, placed inside some small hollowed baker's 
 rolls or finger rolls; served with cheese after dinner 
 and for lunch. SPANISH EGGS Poached eggs on 
 a dish of boiled rice plainly seasoned with salt and 
 butter; stick cinnamon boiled in the rice. CURRIED 
 EGGS Quartered eggs in curry sauce, made by 
 slicing an apple and onion and frying them in butter, 
 curry powder, flour and water added to make the 
 sauce; hard eggs put in, and served with a border 
 of rice when hot enough. CEuFS BROUILLES AUX 
 POINTES D'ASPERGES Scrambled eggs with aspar- 
 agus tips. CEuFS BROUILLES AUX TRUFFES 
 Scrambled eggs with truffles cut in dice, warmed in 
 butter separately, then mixed in. CEuFS BROUILLES 
 A L'INDIENNE Scrambled^eggs with butter, onion, 
 salt, pepper, cayenne, curry powder and lemon 
 juice. CEUFS AU BKURRE NOIR Eggs dropped 
 into butter which froths and turns brown while fry- 
 ing; sprinkled with chili and tarragon vinegar; 
 served on toast. CEuFS POCHES AU Jus Poached 
 sggs in brown gravy; dish made memorable by 
 Brillat-Savarin, who liked them cooked under roast- 
 ing meat. CEuFS POCHES AU JAMBON Poached 
 eggs on oval slices of broiled ham, with a peppery 
 sauce. CEuFS AU KARI Eggs with curry; pouched 
 in an onion-cream sauce containing curry powder 
 enough to make it yellow. CEuFS EN CANAPES 
 
 EGG 
 
 Hard-boiled, the yolks seasoned, made green with 
 chopped parsley, put back in the whites; served on 
 toast. OEuFS AU MIRROIR Eggs like a small 
 hand-mirror; shirred eggs. SHIRRED EGGS Amer- 
 ican name; eggs dropped in a rather deep oval 
 dish well spread with soft butter, and soft-cooked 
 either in the oven or on top of range. CEuFS A LA 
 BONNE FEMME Eggs a good woman's way; 
 baked with chopped onions and vinegar. (Eurs 
 AU SOLEIL Eggs like the sun; same as Duxelies. 
 CEuFS A LA PROVENCALS Cooked in small moulds 
 with chopped onions, brown sauce, etc. CEuFS A 
 L'AVIGNONNAISE Hard-boiled, divided across; 
 forcemeat made of the yolks, bread, anchovy, salt, 
 pepper, nutmeg, white sauce; a built-up dish made 
 of the whites, and forcemeat, crumbs, cheese and 
 butter over; baked. CEuFS EN CAissE-Hard-boiled, 
 sliced; in buttered cases lined with bread crumbs, 
 with cheese in white sauce between the slices; 
 crumbs on top; lightly baked. BAKED EGGS 
 Hard-boiled, sliced in dish with tomato sauce and 
 grated cheese; crumbs over; baked. CEuFS A LA 
 BECHAMEL Hard-boiled, split lengthwise, in Be- 
 chamel sauce; crumbs over; browned in the oven. 
 CEuFS AU VELOUTE Slices in white sauce with but- 
 ter and pastry. FRICASSEED EGGS Same as eggs 
 a la tripe. CEUFS AU -GRATIN Sliced in white 
 sauce; covered with cheese and crumbs; browned. 
 EGGS A LA CREOLE Eggs dropped singly into hot 
 oil and fried in round shape; served with croutons 
 and brown tomato sauce. CEuFS A LA COMTESSE 
 Eggs boiled medium, shelled, dipped whole in thick 
 yellow sauce, breaded, egged and breaded; fried, 
 served on napkin with fried parsley. CEuFS AUX 
 PISTACHES A sweet dish; a kind of egg-pudding; 
 made of 4 oz. butter, i oz. flour, % pt. cream, in a 
 saucepan; lemon rind, i oz. sugar, & eggs, 5 oz. pis- 
 tachio nuts pounded; stirred over fire till like thick 
 scrambled eggs; smoothed over in a dish; sugared; 
 azed in quick oven. EGG CROQUETTES Hard- 
 boiled and minced in cream sauce thick enough to 
 set when cold; seasoned sufficiently for the eggs; 
 some parsley and chives; rolled when cold; breaded; 
 fried. POACHED EGGS WITH SPINACH Spinach 
 boiled green, drained and buttered; a neatly poached 
 egg on top. CEUFS EN VOL- AU-VENT Puff- paste 
 shell filled with slices of egg in rich cream sauce. 
 EGG PATTIES Small patty cases of puff paste 
 (pelits Tols-au-venls), the inside remainder of paste 
 removed after baking; a raw egg dropped in; slack- 
 baked again to set the egg; served hot with rich 
 cream sauce and lemon. (EUFS A LA POLONAISE 
 Hard-boiled, yolks. mixed with fried shallots and 
 tomato; whites re-filled; baked; fried crumbs over. 
 EGG BLANQUETTE Yolks and whites steamed in 
 separate moulds as if for soup, cut in lozenges with 
 tongue, truffles and mushrooms; all mixed in rich 
 cream sauce, colored pale-yellow with raw yolks; 
 served in border of fried shapes of bread. CROUS- 
 TADES AUX OEuFS Cassolettes or fried-bread cases 
 filled with the blattguette preparation. CEuFS A LA
 
 312 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 EGG 
 
 COQUE Plain boiled eggs. EGG MEDALLIONS 
 A LA RUSSE Hard-boiled slices on rounds of 
 fried bread, with top dressing of caviare. RISSOLES 
 D'CEuFS Hard-boiled, cut in dice, mixed in thick 
 cream sauce with raw yolks and minced fried onions, 
 etc., stirred over the fire same as croquette mixture. 
 Pieces size of corks rolled up in paste and fried. 
 CELTS A LA REGENCE Hard-boiled, yolk extracted 
 from aperture in end, filled with soft chicken force- 
 meat, poached, dished on end with white Italian 
 sauce. CEurs A LA CARDINAL Slices of hard- 
 boiled eggs, yolks pounded to paste with butter, 
 rings of white filled with red forcemeat of salmon 
 and lobster; poached in baking pan; yolk-puree 
 warmed in center of dish; rings around; pink car- 
 dinal sauce over. EGG PIE A LA MARSEILLAISE 
 Onions and truffles sliced and fried with slight fla- 
 vor of garlic, drained, sliced hard-boiled eggs added 
 in seasoned Bechamel; bottom crust of short paste ; 
 top covered with mashed potato; baked brown. 
 CEuFS A LA MUSCOVITE Hard eggs scooped out 
 and stuffed with Russian salad of cooked vegetables 
 finely cut in tartare sauce; cold on bed of lettuce. 
 CEt;ps A L'OSEILLE Sorrel and eggs; the sorrel 
 cooked like spinach with butter; hard eggs in quart- 
 ers on top. PICKLED EGGS Hard-boiled eggs 
 without shells in a jar; boiling, spiced vinegar with 
 few onions poured over; ready for use in 3 days. 
 BEIGNETS o'CEurs Egg fritters; soft poached eggs 
 seasoned, cut round, inclosed in thin puff -paste, 
 breaded and fried. EGG KROMESKiES-Soft poached 
 eggs seasoned, dipped in batter, and fried. DAISY 
 Eocs-Rings of fried bread just large enough inside 
 to hold one egg; set on buttered pan, an egg dropped 
 in; baked to set; seasoned, buttered; parsley dust 
 sprinkled over. FRIED EGGS A LA VIENNOISE 
 Poached eggs trimmed round, dried on cloth, rolled 
 in flour, and fried; used to garnish dishes, and for 
 spinach, sorrel, etc. CEurs SUR LE PLAT Eggs on 
 the dish; shirred eggs with thick cream cooked on 
 top, as well as butter in the dish. EGG PUDDING A 
 LA MILANAISE Sliced hard eggs in a pudding dish, 
 a custard with salt and pepper poured over, grated 
 cheese on top; baked till set. PAUPIETTES OK EGGS- 
 Minced hard eggs highly seasoned, portions rolled 
 in very thin pancakes, dipped in batter, and fried ; 
 they are like Frankfurt sausages in shape. EN- 
 GLISH EGG PUDDINGS Batter puddings made with 
 much eggs and little flour, some cream, the whites 
 beaten light and stirred in; boiled in bowls or in a 
 floured pudding-bag; served as soon as taken up; 
 eaten with an acid sauce, like raspberry vinegar, or 
 lemon juice and sugar. CEurs A LA MATELOTE 
 Poached eggs with matelote sauce. NEST OF 
 EGGS 7>ouilles paste (noodles) shred like straws 
 and fried; used as a border to make a nest in a 
 dish, and stuffed eggs with sauce served in it. 
 CEuFS A LA SUISSE (/) Shirred eggs, having a lin- 
 ing of shaved cheese upon the butter in the dish, 
 the eggs dropped in raw, cream on top, grated 
 cheese on surface ; baked. Swiss EGGS-() An omelet 
 
 EGG 
 
 or fondue; 6 eggs, 2 oz. each grated cheese and but- 
 ter, salt, pepper, parsley, tarragon, chives; fried 
 like pancake or omelet or in oven. POACHED EG*GS 
 A LA RUSSE Neatly poached eggs on toast, with a 
 thin white mushroom sauce poured over all. EGGS 
 ON HORSEBACK A couple of travelers stopping at 
 the Hotel Francaise, in the city of Cordova, the 
 capital of the Argentine Confederation, were sur- 
 prised and amused by noticing on the bill of fare 
 "eggs on horseback." Determined to know what 
 it meant they called for the equestrian dish, when a 
 steak "topped" with two eggs was placed on the 
 table. ONE EGG FOR TEN MEN One ostrich egg 
 for ten guests is the pattern at the California ostrich 
 farm. "One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, 
 nine, ten," said Dwight Whiting, counting the 
 guests he had invited to spend the day at the ostrich 
 farm with him. "I guess one egg will be enough," 
 and having given utterance to this expression he 
 wended his way to the paddock and soon brought 
 to the house an ostrich egg. For a whole hour it 
 was boiled, and though there was then some mis- 
 givings as to its being cooked, the shell was broken, 
 for curiosity could no longer be restrained, and a 
 three-pound hard-boiled egg laid upon the plate. 
 But aside from its size there was nothing peculiar 
 about it. YOLKS OF EGGS A correspondent asks: 
 "Can you tell me what use to make of surplus yolks 
 of eggs? You do not mention but one kind of cake 
 made with yolks. I am employed in a fine bakery 
 or confectionery and sometimes have several quarts 
 of yolks left over in a week and have to throw them 
 away spoiled." Answer: If you were doing hotel 
 work you would find, on the contrary, the whites 
 would be left over, there being so man\*more uses 
 for the yolks. The yolk contains all the richness 
 of the egg, and gives color, flavor and smoothness 
 to puddings, creams, custards, and sweet sauces, 
 better alone than with the whites mixed in. We 
 use the yolks also in fish sauces, salad dressings, in 
 potato and other croquettes, also minced for an or- 
 namental garnish, mixed with flour for "noodles," 
 and with batter for another kind of soup, also 
 thicken soups with them, instead of flour and starch, 
 and steam yolks in bulk like a cake, then cut up and 
 use them as we would chicken meat for patties. 
 We rub cooked yolks through a sieve, making- a 
 sort of vermicelli, to serve with some dish, and we 
 drop them whole, also, in soup to substitute turtle 
 eggs. We cut them up arid mix with chicken meat, 
 mushrooms and sauce to fill the shells of fried 
 bread with, and if there are any raw yolks left over 
 after that, we mix them in the waffle batter. In a 
 good bakery you will find nearly as many uses for 
 this, the best part of the egg, no matter how many 
 may be left over from your using the whites in me- 
 ringues, macaroons, icing, etc., for the yolks may 
 be mixed with water and used the same as whole 
 eggs. Take a pint measure about two-thirds full 
 of yolks, fill it up with water and you have a pint 
 of eggs, which is a pound, or equal to 10 eggs, and
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 313 
 
 EGG 
 
 the mixture of yolks and water can be used in mak- 
 ing almost any sort of cakes, the only difference 
 observable being that they are yellower and richer | 
 than if whole eggs are employed. In this way you ! 
 can utilize the yolks in all sorts of small cakes, in ! 
 French coffee cakes, buns, rusks, brioches, and in 
 the sorts of sponge cakes and jelly roils which are j 
 made light with powder instead of whipped whites, j 
 If you make ice creams, they alone that is the fancy 
 kinds should vise up all of that material you can 
 have to spare, and another good purpose to put sur- 
 plus egg yolks to, is to mix them with lemon or 
 orange syrup and a little butter, and stir the mixture 
 over the fire until it thickens, making lemon or 
 orange butter or cheese-cake mixture. CEurs EN 
 ASPIC Sliced hard-boiled eggs ornamentally set in 
 a mould of aspic jelly, turned out on a border of 
 salad. CEuFS AU TOMATE Hard-boiled, the whites 
 cut in strips in tomato sauce, in a dish with border 
 of fried bread, the yolks chopped and spread on top. 
 GOLDEN EGGS Hard-boiled, shelled, breaded and 
 fried whole. SUNSHINY EGGS Eggs fried on one 
 side, with tomato sauce poured over in the dish. 
 EGG OMELETS See omelets. PLOVER'S EGGS See 
 plover. AN EPICURE ON EGGS "I agree with 
 Falstaff, in his contempt for the prevalent absurdity 
 of eating eggs, eggs, eegs at breakfast. ' No pullet 
 sperm in my brewage," say I. I prefer chicken to 
 the egg, and the hen, when she is really a fine bird 
 and well roasted or grilled, to the chicken." 
 
 EGG FLIP See hot brews. " They can also be 
 drunk in the shape of that 'egg flip," which sustains 
 the oratorical efforts of modern statesmen." 
 
 EGG-XOGG and ICED EGG-NOGG See 
 drinks. 
 
 EGG KISSES Meringues; baked, white of egg 
 and sugar. 
 
 EGG SAUCE Butter sauce with an admixture 
 of chopped eggs. 
 
 EGG REMEDIES The white is the most effi- 
 cacious of remedies for burns, and the oil extract- 
 able from the yolks is regarded by the Russians as 
 an almost miracxilous saive for cuts, bruises and 
 scratches. A raw egg, swallowed in the throat, 
 and the white of two eggs will render the deadly 
 corrosive sublimate as harmless as a dose of cal- 
 omel. 
 
 EGG OIL, Is extracted from the yolks by the 
 family doctors in the southern states, by slowly fry- 
 ing, stirring and almost burning a mass of yolks in 
 a frying pan without any additions. 
 
 EGGS IN THE ARTS- In France alone the 
 wine clarifiers use more than 80,000,000 a year, and 
 the Alsatians consume fully 38,000,000 in calico 
 printing and for dressing the leather used in mak- 
 ing the finest of French kid gloves. 
 
 EGG PRESERVATION Drying eggs in the 
 form of grains of powder has proved practicable 
 but scarcely yet commercially successful, probably 
 
 EGG 
 
 through the fear of the public that spoiled eggs 
 may be concealed in the preparation. The experi- 
 ment can easily be tried by spreading a beaten egg 
 upon a plate and allowing it to dry out; it will leave 
 the plate in brittle crumbs which can then be dis- 
 solved in warm water and used. The yolk aione, if 
 dried, cannot be dissolved afterwards unless with 
 the aid of some chemical admixture. The white 
 alone if dried is easily soluble, and easily kept and 
 after keeping and dissolving in water can be beaten 
 to froth as well as if fresh. THE HAVANA PRO- 
 CESS The following is the "Havana process" for 
 keeging eggs, the formula for which has been kept 
 a secret or sold to persons who \vere willing to pay 
 $2 for it: Take twenty -four gallons of water and 
 P'lt in 12 pounds of unslaked lime and four pounds 
 of salt. Stir well several times a day and then let 
 it stand and settle until perfectly clear. Then draw 
 off twenty gallons of the clear lime and salt water. 
 By putting a spigot in the barrel about four inches 
 above the bottom you can draw off the clear water 
 and leave the settlings. Then take five ounces of 
 baking soda, five ounces cream tartar, five ounces 
 saltpetre, five ounces borax and one ounce of alum; 
 pulverise these, mix and disolve in a gallon of boil- 
 ing water, which should be poured into your twenty 
 gallons of lime water. This will fill a whisky barrel 
 about half full and such a barrel holds i5odoz. eggs. 
 Let the water stand one inch above the eggs. Cover 
 with old cloth and put a bucket of the settlings over 
 it. As the water evaporates add more, and the eggs 
 must be kept covered. For the ordinary purposes 
 of home consumption the French peasantry have for 
 ages preserved their eggs In a very simple fashion. 
 They take a wooden case, or a large barrel, and pack 
 them in thick layers of sawdust, fine sand, chalk, 
 bran, cinders, or coal dust, so that they do not touch 
 each other. In the United States we have limed 
 eggs that is, eggs kept in lime water and pickled 
 eggs kept in strong brine so much a matter of 
 course that they are regular market quotations, 
 which shows that they are the most expedient and 
 practicable ways. The eggs are not as good as fresh 
 and the prices are according, still they are good and 
 sometimes form the only available supply of this 
 most necessary article. In experiments with egg- 
 preservatives too little attention seems to be paid to 
 the question of temperature; eggs are like meat and 
 can be kept for an indefinite period in a cold storage 
 chamber at about the freezing point, without regard 
 to the packing; on the other hand any vegetable 
 packing that may become damp around them will 
 heat and spoil them in a few days. A farmer carried 
 off the prize at a fair for his eggs, preserved for 
 months by only packing in dry bran; if all had been 
 known probably it would have been found that a 
 cold cellar had been the real means of saving them. 
 EGG PLANT The aubergine fruit; deep pur- 
 ple, almost black outside; egg-shaped, size from 
 that of a pint cup to three times that bulk; plentiful 
 and cheap in the markets; most at home in the
 
 314 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 ELD 
 
 South. EGG PLANT A LA TURQCE Mussaka, I 
 learned, otherwise Imam-Butldi(\\\\ich in English 
 means "the High-Priest's Tuck-in",) was the name 
 of it, and the manner of its preparatia j the follow- 
 ing: Cut up an egg plant (aubergine) into slices, 
 salt them, strain them for a few minutes, dry them 
 well in cloth, then fry them in butter till they are of 
 a rich brown color. Now chop up some beef very 
 fine, and mince it carefully with some parsley, a 
 suggestion of onion, pepper and salt, butter, and a 
 few fresh tomatoes thinly sliced, and stew these 
 things together until the meat is browned. Next, 
 arrange in a pie-dish or mould, layers of egg plant, 
 and layers of the stew. Pour a little broth or gravy 
 into the mould, and bake in the oven for about thirty 
 five minutes. Turn the whole carefully out on to a 
 dish, or, better still, serve in the pie-dish. BROILED 
 EGG-PLANT Small ones split in halves lengthwise, 
 not pared, seasoned with salt, pepper, oil, broiled; 
 served the white side up; butter sauce. AUBER- 
 GINE A LA PROVENCALS Broiled, with ancho- 
 vies, fried onions and garlic in tomato sauce. Ac- 
 BERGIXE FARCIES A L'ITALIENNE Halves, not 
 peeled, fried, inside partly taken out and mixed 
 with chopped shallots, mushrooms, fat pork, pars- 
 ley, etc., put back, crumbs on top; baked. EGG 
 PLANT IN BATTER Pared, sliced, dropped for a 
 minute or two in boiling salted water, or else steeped 
 an hour in cold salted water to extract the raw taste, 
 dried, dipped in batter, fried like a fritter, sprinkled 
 with salt, served as a vegetable with meat. FRIED 
 EGG PLANT Sliced, blanched or steeped, dried, 
 egged, rolled in cracker crumbs, fried, sprinkled 
 with salt. In France the aubergine or egg plant is 
 eaten in soups and stews. 
 
 ELDERBERRY The elder grows by the side 
 of creeks almost everywhere; the berries attain a 
 somewhat larger size and juicier condition, how- 
 ever, in cool summer climates. ELDERBERRY SYRUP 
 The expressed juice is boiled with sugar, cloves, 
 cinnamon and sugar, bottled and used to make hot 
 drinks. ELDERBERRIES IN PIES They are mixed 
 with apples and thus give a flavor, a new fruit in 
 
 effect. ELDERBERRY CATSUP Berries with boil 
 
 ing vinegar, salt and spices; used for fish sauce. 
 ELDER BRANDY The juice with some spirits ad- 
 ded. ELDER WINE Boiled juice with sugar, spices 
 and yeast, fermented, racked off and bottled. At 
 a hotel at Hastings, Douglas Jerrold was dining 
 with two friends, one of whom, after dinner, ordered 
 a bottle of old port. "Waiter," added Jerrold, with 
 a significant twinkle of his eye, "mind now, a bottle 
 of your old port, not elder port." BEIGNETS DE 
 FLEURS DE SUHEAU Fritters of sprigs of elder 
 flowers. 
 
 ELEPHANT'S FEET-Elephant's feet, pickled 
 in strong toddy .vinegar and cayenne pepper, are 
 considered in Ceylon an Apician luxury. The 
 taste is said to resemble buffalo's hump. The native 
 of South Africa loves nothing better than a slice of 
 roast elephant. 
 
 EPI 
 
 ELK Game still found plentiful in North Amer- 
 ica; good meat but not choice game; the flesh is more 
 like dark beef than like venison, without the good 
 flavor of either; is best cooked in steaks; can be 
 cooked and sauced in any of the ways suitable for 
 beef. 
 
 EMINCE (Fr.) Mince. 
 
 ENDIVE Chicory; cooked as spinach ; used as 
 lettuce for salads. ENDIVE SALAD A LA FRANCAISE 
 The white leaves only are good. The salad bowl 
 is rubbed with garlic and endive cut up in it; i tt-a- 
 spoon salt, little pepper, 5 tablespoons oil, 2 table- 
 spoons vinegar. Two crusts rubbed on garlic; to 
 be stirred about in the salad then taken out. 
 
 ENTRECOTE Rib steak of beef. ENTRECOTE 
 DE PORC A pork steak or slice cut anywhere. EN- 
 
 TRECOTES DE BOEUF A LA BORDELAISE Thick rib 
 
 steaks; broiled, with Bordelaise sauce and beef nar- 
 row. 
 
 ENTREES Small meats made up in various 
 guises with sauces and garnishings, as distin- 
 guished from the principal joints and roasts. 
 
 ENTREMETS Term rarely used. French name 
 for made dishes of vegetables, sundry savories, pud- 
 dings, creams, something less than an entree. 
 "Another Traite de la Cuisine had just then been 
 published, by one Menon it would appear, but it was 
 a mere rechauffe of Massialot's work. This long 
 forgotten gift of the god of revelry took so well that 
 three years later Marin, the 'Officer,' the cook no 
 less who produced it issued a sequal in three vol- 
 umes, with a preface by De Querlon. The first point 
 in the history of cookery that strikes one is that en- 
 tremets were just then beginning to get confounded 
 with hors doeuvres, and these with entrees; the re- 
 cent revolution in taste had extended even to the 
 order of the dishes. Except in 'repasts of cere- 
 mony,' there were no fixed rules; and Marin, while 
 on the subject remarked, under the head of Spring, 
 that the sterility of that season left him no entre- 
 mets but ham, or what his skill could evolve out of 
 vegetables." 
 
 EPAULE (Fr.) Shoulder. EPAULE D' AGNEAU 
 Shoulder of lamb. 
 
 EPERLANS (Fr.) Smelts. 
 
 EPICURE A dainty eater; a discriminator in 
 diet; a critic of flavors; an analyst of taste. " Mr. 
 Lvnch is an epicure, and that reminds me of a story 
 the captain of my yacht tells. Two Englishmen 
 were discussing the subject of eating, and one says 
 to the other: 'Ennery, vot is a h'epicure?' The 
 answer was: 'O, a h'epicure? Why, a h'epicure 
 is a bloke as will h'eat h'ennything.' " 
 
 EPIGRAMME Said to be from epigast, the 
 lower part of the breast, but here is a different ex- 
 planation: " In the days when French tax-farmers 
 were as remarkable for their ignorance as for their 
 wealth, a gentleman observed to one of them that he 
 had been dining with a poet who regaled him with
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 315 
 
 EPI 
 
 en epigram. Envious and angry, the dull fellow 
 rushed home and demanded of his cook 'how it came 
 that no epigrams were served up at his table?' The 
 chef fortunately had wit and fancy equal to the 
 emergency, and at the next dinner he served to his 
 employer appeared an epigram of lamb. This was 
 well contrived. Poetical epigrams usually consist 
 in French of alternate verses. The lamb consisted 
 of alternate cutlets, one set of the ordinary kind, cut 
 from the neck; the other made out of the breast of 
 lamb brazed, boned, pressed between two dishes, 
 and, when cold, carved into cutlet shapes decorated 
 with asparagus points." EPIGRAMME DE MoUTON 
 The breast cooked in stock till tender, bones pulled 
 out and reserved, meat chopped and made xip as for 
 croquettes; flat croquettes made of it, egged, breaded, 
 bone stuck in each to imitate cutlet, fried. Regular 
 mutton chops also prepared and one of each served 
 to each person, with peas or asparagus. EPIGRAM- 
 ME DE VOLAILLE Breast of chicken neatly shaped, 
 and flat croquettes made of the other parts, served 
 together with sauce, etc. 
 
 EPIXARDS (Fr.) Spinach. 
 
 ESCALOPES (Fr.) Thin slices; scollops or 
 collops of beef, veal, mutton, pork, etc. ESCALOPES 
 DE Ris DE VEAU AU SUPREME Slices of veal sweet- 
 breads saute in butter; served with supreme sauce. 
 ESCALOPES DE DINDE EN BLANQUETTE Turkey 
 breast in white cream-sauce. ESCALOPES DE LAPE- 
 REAU AU FUMET Collops or fillets of rabbits baked 
 in rabbit essence or reduced stock of rabbit carcass. 
 
 ESCAROLE Broad -leaved endive. 
 
 ESCHALOTTE (Fr.) Shallot; mild kind of 
 onion. 
 
 ESPAGNOLE SAUCE A stock sauce or brown 
 gravy kept on hand by cooks to form the basis of 
 other sauces; made by frying- together carrots, on- 
 ions, veal, ham, aromatic herbs, and some spices, 
 adding broth, wine, tomatoes, flour, butter; strained, 
 boiled and skimmed until bright brown. 
 
 ESTRAGON Tarragon ; a garden herb, used to 
 flavor vinegar and soups, sauces, etc. ESTRAGON 
 SAUCE White broth thickened, with chopped tarra- 
 gon and tarragon vinegar. 
 
 ESTURGEON (Fr.) Sturgeon. 
 
 EVENTAIL AUX CERISES Fan-form of 
 strips of puff -paste on a bed of marmalade and 
 cherries. 
 
 EXCELLENT AU CAFE See Ices. 
 
 EXCELLENT PUDDING A boiled plum pud- 
 ding goes by that name; made of i Ib. each suet, 
 flour, sugar, raisins, currants; J^ Ib. bread crumbs, 
 some citron, grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, ginger, 
 salt, rum, 8 eggs (omitting 4 of the whites); suet and 
 dry goods mixed; sugar, eggs and rum to moisten; 
 boiled in a bag 6 hours. 
 
 EXTRACT OF BEEF A very useful prepara- 
 tion for enriching consommes and gravies, and niak- 
 
 FEC 
 
 ing soup without muc 1 . previous preparation of stock 
 The Australian and Brazilian extracts are the like- 
 liest to be genuine, if in original packages, for the 
 reason that animals are killed there n some places 
 for their hides only, there being no market for the 
 meat other than the demand from the extract of 
 meat manufacturers. It is put up in bladders, almost 
 dried to solidity. That manufactured in the states 
 can be bought reasonably in cans, but in the small 
 pots is too expensive for most hotels and restaurants. 
 
 F. 
 
 FAISAN (Fr.) Pheasant. 
 
 FAIRY BUTTER Yolk of hard-boiled eggs 
 pounded with butter, powdered sugar and flavor- 
 ings. 
 
 FAIRY GINGERBREAD Cakes crisp and but- 
 tery, as thin as cards; made of i cup butter, 2 cups 
 sugar, i cup milk, 4 cups flour, i tablespoon ginger; 
 spread extremely thin on pans buttered, but cold; 
 baked in slack oven; cut in squares while warm. 
 
 FALERXIAN WINE Classical allusion often 
 met with, having reference to famous wines of old 
 Rome. 
 
 FANCHONETTES-The common English name 
 of the whole assortment is cheese-cake. They are 
 patty-pan tartlets, filled with various custard mix- 
 tures, such as lemon or chocolate-pie stuff, or lemon 
 honey, with frosting on top; should be ornamented 
 with piping besides. 
 
 FARCE (Fr.) Forcemeat; stuffing. 
 
 FARCIE (Fr.)-Stuffed. 
 
 FARINA Pudding material made from wheat; 
 it is like sifted corn -meal to the touch. There are 
 two kinds, one being Graham farina, which is used 
 principally for making mush or porridge for break- 
 fast or supper; takes 3 oz. to a quart of water or milk; 
 requires long cooking in a bain-marie or double 
 kettle; pastry cooks let it simmer in milk for pud- 
 dings at side of the range, then mix in sugar, butter 
 and eggs, and bake. FARINA CUSTARD PUDDING 
 Made thin with farina boiled in milk, and thickened 
 with sufficient yolks, sugar, butter, flavoring ; baked; 
 served with sauce. BOILED FARINA PUDDING 
 Made with 3 oz. in i qt. milk; simmered till thick, 
 little sugar, butter, 2 yolks; served in saucers with 
 thick lemon -syrup sauce. CONSOMME WITH FA- 
 RINA Soup first made clear; i oz. farina to each qt., 
 washed, and simmered in it till transparent. FA- 
 RINA CUP CUSTARD Boiled custard, of i oz. to i qt. 
 milk, well cooked in it, 4 yolks to each qaart, sugar, 
 flavor; made cold in ice water; served in cups. FA- 
 RINA ICE-CREAM Cup-custard frozen; it is also 
 called Frozen Farina-Pudding. 
 
 FAWN A young deer; is roasted, served with 
 currant jelly. 
 
 FAUSSE TORTUE (Fr.)-Mock or false turtle. 
 
 FECULA (Fr.) Potato flour, or starch. 
 
 FECULA DE MAIS -Corp -starch.
 
 316 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 FEN 
 
 FENXEL A garden plant much cultivated in 
 England, which also grows wild in Florida; es- 
 teemed as a flavoring accompaniment to boiled 
 mackerel and salmon. It is as much a matter, of 
 course, to boil fennel with mackerel as to serve mint 
 with lamb and peas. The green leaves tied in 
 bunches are used; they are of the feathery sort, 
 somewhat resembling asparagus leaves. FENNEL 
 SAUCE Made same as parsley sauce; a spoonful of 
 chopped fennel stirred into hot butter -sauce. 
 
 FERMIERE (a la) Farmers's style. 
 
 FETTICUS-Fathen; lamb's quarter and other 
 names; a lull, silvery green weed, grows on rich 
 spots of land about farm houses; excellent boiled as 
 spinach. 
 
 FEVES DE MARAIS Marsh beans; French 
 name of the broad beans much used in England. 
 
 FIDELIXI One of the varieties of Italian paste, 
 thicker than vermicelli, thinner than spaghetti; is 
 put up in even lenghts in pound boxes; used for 
 soups and same as spaghetti. FIDELINI A LA Ro- 
 YALE Soup; made of % Ib. fidelini, boiled in salted 
 water, drained out, put into 5 pts. chicken broth, 6 
 yolks, cup of cream, seasonings, stirred up to 
 thicken without boiling. Grated parmesan cheese 
 served with it separately. 
 
 FIGS Fresh figs are plentiful in Florida and 
 the Gulf states, ahd are served as breakfast and des- 
 sert fruit with cream; are used in pies and tarts, 
 mixed with lemon juice; are best, perhaps, in pre- 
 serves with lemon peel and ginger, an article of 
 some prominence now among southern exported 
 products. DRIED FIGS Served along with fresh 
 fruits for dessert, also cut up and used in most 
 respects the same as raisins in cakes and puddings. 
 FIG PIE Cut up, stewed with a cut lemon in syrup, 
 made with either a top crust or with strips over. 
 FIG PUDDING A L'ITAI.IENNE Made of % Ib. figs 
 (chopped fine), % Ib. breadcrumbs, 6 oz. suet, 6 oz. 
 sugar, 2 eggs, i teacupful milk, nutmeg as required; 
 boil or steam for three hours. FIG FRITTERS 
 Steamed figs and fig fritters are new dishes at some 
 hotels and restaurants where they study gastro- 
 nomic novelties. FIG SUE " Fig sue is a favorite 
 dish in Westmoreland. It is made in the following 
 manner by the better -class people: J^ Ib. figs (cut 
 up small), % Ib. bread, 2 oz. currants, % Ib. sugar, 
 J^ pt. beer. Put in a pan, simmer half an hour, 
 serve as a pudding. There is another method, same 
 ingredients, but with home-made beer, about a pint 
 of strong ale being added after boiling. This is 
 eaten out of basins like soup. Fig sue is also simi- 
 larly prepared with milk in the place of beer in the 
 rural districts, sometimes thickened with oatmeal. 
 It is in great favor here with all classes, and is 
 taken at dinner, tea, or at night, Good Friday being 
 the principal day of consumption." FIG PUDDING 
 Boiled pudding, made of 4 oz. suet, 5 oz. bread- 
 crumbs, 5 oz. figs finely minced, $ tablespoons sugar, 
 z eggs, salt; boiled in a mould 3 hours; brandy 
 
 FIL 
 
 sauce. Fir, PASTE Only a name for a kind of gum 
 drops compound, no figs about it. The original 
 name is Turkish, not adapted to be taken along with 
 the confection. Made of 12 Ibs. sugar, 3 Ibs. glu- 
 cose, ij Ibs. corn starch, 3 gallons water, % oz. 
 citric acid. Water and sugar boiled, starch wetted 
 and added, then the acid and glucose; stirred con- 
 stantly and cooked until it leaves the fingers in cool- 
 ing. Variously flavored, colored, cut and shaped 
 in powdered s-igar. 
 
 FIG-PECKER Small bird that divides honors 
 with the ortolan among European bon-vivants. 
 
 FILBERT Well-known nut of the hazel-nut 
 kind; served at dessert either with nut-crackers or, 
 if that is not convenient, the nuts ready cracked be- 
 fore being served in the baskets. FILBEKT SOUP 
 " I wonder whether any modern chef possesses a 
 recipe for the puree of walnuts which George IV 
 frequently devoured? The foundation was a very- 
 strong game stock made from pheasants or par- 
 tridges, and the walnuts were well pounded and 
 blended with cream. It was a fellow soup to the 
 puree of filberts, which was the favorite dish with 
 his majesty in autumn, and which also was made 
 with pheasants or partridges." FILBERT CREAMS 
 Same \vays as almonds. BISQUE OF FILBERTS 
 Ice cream with pounded filberts, same way as al- 
 monds. FILBERT BUTTER Is a nice addition to 
 sandwiches, or may be used as a small side-dish. 
 To make it, pound twelve filbert kernels and three 
 ounces of butter thoroughly in a mortar, and season 
 with finely chopped parsley, chives, and tarragon 
 leaves. 
 
 FILLET A strip or band of meat without bone. 
 FILLET OF BEEF The tenderloin entire, also in 
 steaks or slices (small fillets, filets mignom;); it is the 
 undercut of the sirloin, the long band of meat which 
 lies between the kidney fat and the backbone, ex- 
 tending from the small of the back to the hip joint. 
 FILLET OF VEAL The round or fleshy part of the 
 leg of the veal; the bone taken out it is usually 
 larded, stuffed, coiled up and skewered to a round 
 shape. FILLET OF PORK OR MUTTON The meat of 
 the saddle or middle of the back taken from the 
 bone; or a strip from one side, from the shoulder 
 blade to the hip; seldom named in the menu; used 
 technically in cookery recipes. FILLETS OF FOWL 
 The breast in two parts, or one. There is a nat- 
 ural division whereby the larger part leaves the 
 minion fillet adhering to the breast bone. In some 
 elaborate dishes the two are used separately; usu- 
 ally the entire breast is meant when the fillet of fowl 
 is named. FILLETS OF RABBIT OR HARE The 
 meatly part of the back and legs, flattened and 
 shapjd for the various purposes. FILLETS OP 
 SOLES The English flat-fish, called the sole, is es- 
 pecially adapted in its structure to make thin bands 
 of fish, which lend themselves readily to the cook's 
 purposes to roll, double over or shape variously; 
 hence fillets of soles are named in menus ten times
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 31T 
 
 FIN 
 
 as frequently as the plain fish itself. FILETS DE 
 SOLES A LA CAREME The fillets pared and flattened, 
 spread over with fish forcemeat containing truffles 
 and mushrooms, doubled together, laid in order in a 
 buttered saucepan, % bottle chablis, aromatics, set 
 in the oven for 20 minutes. Drained, dished in 
 circular form, with a ragout of prawns etc., in the 
 center, and sauce made of the saucepan gravy, meat 
 essence and tomatoes; strained. FILLETS OF FISH 
 Thin fish-steaks cut the long way; boneless sides of 
 fish. FILLETS OK VEGETABLES " In his eagerness 
 to present some novelty he even directs how to serve 
 a dinner entirely in fillets ,' not only are his meats 
 cut in strips, but haricots, carrots, cucumbers, leeks, 
 and whatever else, are all shredded to the fineness 
 of straws; but this savors more of conjuring than of 
 good cookery." 
 
 FINANCIERS GARNISH Consists of brown 
 sauce with sherry, lemon, cock's combs, livers, 
 quenelles, pieces of sweetbreads, etc. Used to gar- 
 nish a dish either by filling in the center or around 
 the cutlets, sweetbreads, birds or fillet, it gives the 
 designation a la Financiere. 
 
 FINANCIERS SAUCE Brown sauce made 
 with wine, lemon, mushrooms cut small, catsup> 
 and espagnole. 
 
 FINE-HERBS SAUCE Brown sauce made 
 of espagnole, chopped mushrooms, shallots and 
 parsley. 
 
 FINES HERBES (ai<x) With shallots, mush- 
 rooms and parsley scattered over or amongst. 
 ESCALOPES DE Ris DE VEAU AUX FINES HERBES 
 Sweetbreads cut small in a baking dish with fine 
 herbs, gravy and wine; cooked in the oven. 
 
 FINGER BISCUITS Lady-fingers; Savoy-bis- 
 cuits; thin sponge cakes placed together in pairs. 
 
 FINGER ROLLS The Italian Grissini bread, 
 salt sticks, soup sticks; finger shapes of crusty 
 bread to eat with soup. 
 
 FINNAN HADDIES Commercial name and 
 trade brand of Findon haddocks; smoked haddocks, 
 cooked by (i) broiling, previously steeped in warm 
 water, (2) boiliuga short time in a shallow pan; 
 buttered when done; (3) baking in a little milk and 
 butter! SAUCE FOR "HADDIE" Butter, mustard 
 and lemon juice made warm. 
 
 FISH QUOTATIONS-for menus: " Fish is no 
 less important to a good dinner than soup. There 
 is an Oriental proverb, to the effect that 'your Arab 
 despises fish,' which as the Arabs dwell where fish 
 are not, is equivalent to saying, 'the grapes are 
 sour.' " " St. Kevin, a religious gentleman who 
 lived by the fish he caught in one of the Irish lakes, 
 was subjected to a severe temptation on one of his 
 piscatorial excursions, but whether he fell into the 
 snare laid for him or not, I do not now remember. 
 It seems that a belle of that ilk, named Kate, put the 
 following leading question to him: 
 
 'You're a rare hand at fishing,' says Kate. 
 
 ' It's yourself dear, that knows how to hook 'em: 
 
 FIS 
 
 But when you have caught 'm, agrah ! 
 
 Don't you want a young woman to cook 'em?' 
 
 If St. Kevin said 'No,' he was not the Irishman I 
 take him to have been." "Fishes are welcome at 
 every meal, but they are peculiarly adapted for break- 
 fast. Not one would we banish; neither regal sal- 
 mon, nor lordly turbot; voracious cod, nor delicate 
 whiting; giant perch, nor accommodating sole; 
 bladderless mackerel, nor musical skate; savage 
 pike, nor lowly herring; pretentious mullet, nor 
 common haddock no, not even the vulgar plaice. 
 They are delicate, they are easy of digestion, and 
 they take kindly to any flavoring the most erratic 
 palate may desire. Hence it is that they are so 
 valuable at the first meal." "In order to know what 
 cod really is, you musl eat it at Newfoundland^ 
 Herring is not worthy of the name except on the 
 banks of Lochfyne, in Argyleshire; and the best 
 salmon in the whole world is that of the Boyne." 
 "A good sea fish is spoiled with too great refine- 
 ment in this matter; all it needs is a clean gridiron, 
 or a boiling kettle, a hot plate, sweet bread and but- 
 ter. If a sauce is desired, do not take anchovy be- 
 cause it is 'the thing,' but try the more homely re- 
 cipe of the great Edingburgh epicures: 'Ketchup 
 (mushroom), mustard, cayenne, butter, amalga- 
 mated on your own plate by your own hand, each 
 man according to his proportion." This is for witty 
 paragraphers, to say something about hotel salt 
 mackerel; the Nevada salt fish mines are still doing 
 business : "During the sinking of large pits and wells 
 in Nevada stratas of rock salt were cut through, in 
 which were found imbedded perfectly preserved 
 fish, which are doubtless thousands of years old, as 
 the salt field occupies what was once the bottom of 
 a large lake, and no such fish are now to be found in 
 any of the modern Nevada lakes. The specimens 
 are not petrified, but flesh, and all are preserved in 
 perfect form, and after being soaked in water for 
 two or three days can be cooked and eaten; but are 
 not very palatable. After being exposed to the air and 
 sun for a day or two they become as hard as wood." 
 A traveler, Wayett Gill, says: " I am interested in 
 the discussion going on at home about fish as food 
 for the brain. For years past there has been annually 
 resident in the training institution at Raratonga 
 from fifty to seventy natives of the various islands 
 of the South Pacific. The most quick-witted stu- 
 dents come from the low coral islands and have 
 grown to manhood on a diet of fish and cocoanuts. 
 In muscular strength, however, and in the power of 
 endurance they are decidedly inferior to the inhabi- 
 tants of volcanic islands who used a mixed diet." 
 FISH STEW The meat being cut from the bones of 
 any kind of fish,the bones.heads and tails are boiled in 
 water with onion and any kind of herb or vegetable 
 seasonings to make a fish broth or cullis; some roux 
 of butter and flour is stirred over the fire in another 
 sauce-pan and the fish broth strained to it, making 
 a slightly thickened soup. The pieces of fish are 
 stewed in this, with such additions as may be avail-
 
 318 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 FIS 
 
 able, shrimps, perhaps oysters, perhaps tomatoes, 
 white wine or cider and mushrooms, or only parsley 
 and butter, or sliced potatoes. These additions are 
 what give the different names to the dishes. BAKED 
 FISH Perhaps the least troublesome mode of cook- 
 jng fish is to bake it. Any fish in slices, or of small 
 size, can be so served by putting it on a well- 
 buttered dish with herbs, lemon juice, vinegar, mush- 
 rooms, a glass of white wine, a little stock, anchovy 
 sauce, or anything else that the sense of the cook 
 may suggest, and covering it with brown bread- 
 crumbs or a sheet of buttered paper. A few minutes 
 will make it ready for table, and all it wants is to 
 be slipped an a dish and garnished. Fishes care- 
 fully stuffed and baked whole are generally nice; it 
 is a method very well suited to fresh-water fish, and 
 a delicious way of cooking mullet or a dish of whit- 
 ing. FISH PIES Cornwall and Wales are famous 
 for their fish pies. This is by no means a despicable 
 way of cooking fish, if they are tender and not bony. 
 Eels, bass, all kinds of flat fish, lobsters, shrimps, 
 and oysters are mostly used. The rule is to remove 
 all bones, fins, etc. ; and when the pie is nearly done, 
 to uncover it partially, drain off the liquor, and add 
 cream in its place, and then return a few minutes to 
 the oven. Pies made of herring and pilchard have 
 a plentiful allowance of scalded leeks in them. 
 FISH SAUSAGES An appetizing and novel form of 
 sausage made from the best portions of the dogger - 
 bank cod, and other white-fleshed fish, directly they 
 are landed from the fisherman's boats. They are 
 delicately and agreeably seasoned, and may be had 
 either quite fresh or after having been lightly 
 smoked. Fried, boiled, curried, or otherwise treated 
 they afford a variety of excellent dishes. PULLED 
 FiSH--Cold boiled fish pulled in pieces; to i Ib. fish 
 J pt. cream, tablespoon mustard, i do. anchovy 
 essence, i do. catsup, pepper, salt, butter and flour 
 to thicken; hot in sauce-pan. PATE DE Poissox A 
 LA RUSSE A specialty at Guntor's, London. A 
 cold raised fish pie, for balls, suppers and luncheons, 
 made of: a raised pie case in a mould, filleted soles 
 stewed with mushrooms, parsley, onions, wine. 
 Fillets taken out, mushrooms, shallots, etc., chopped 
 and mixed in Duxelles sauce. A layer of fillets 
 soles, in the pie case, layer of compound sauce, layer 
 of pickled lobster, layer of mayonnaise sauce, few 
 shrimps, truffles, repeated till case is full, gelatine 
 in the fish liquor to make jelly, poured in when 
 nearly set; not to be baked ; crust baked beforehand 
 with filling of flour. This is a fish aspic in form of 
 a pie. COLD FISH CUTLETS Croquettes, or imita- 
 tion shapes of cutlets, made of cold fish in sauce 
 breaded and fried; served hot; sauce. COLD FISH 
 BElGNETS-Fish, butter, crumbs, seasonings, pound- 
 ed to a paste; pieces breaded and rolled in grated 
 cheese, baked in pan with little butter. COLD FISH 
 SCALLOPED Pulled flakes of fish in scallops or clam 
 shells; mustard, butter, cayenne, lemon juice, salt, 
 mixed, poured over fish, crumbs on top, baked. 
 COLD FISH SALAD Pieces sprinkled with lemon 
 juice along whh lettuce and ^alad dressing. 
 
 FLU 
 
 FLAGEOLETS Haricots flageolets; the green 
 seed beans shelled out of string beans. They can 
 be bought in cans same as French peas and are as 
 green; the beans soused are of special green-seeded 
 kinds. Used as a choice vegetable for course din- 
 ners, club dishes, etc. 
 
 FLAMAXDE {a la) In Flemish or Holland 
 stvle. 
 
 FLAX (Fr.) An open tart with custard on top of 
 the fruit. FLAN DE PEACHES A paste crust laid in 
 the baking pan is covered with either preserved or 
 thick stewed peaches or else, in the season with soft 
 ripe peaches and cream; a 6-eerg custard poured 
 over, baked till custard is set; cut in squares when 
 cold. 
 
 FLEMISH SAUCE Butter sauce made \ellow 
 with yolks and mustard; vinegar, parsley, nutmeg, 
 pepper. 
 
 FLITCH OF BACON English name for a 
 whole side of dry salt pork; any large piece of side 
 meat. 
 
 FLOAT An American culinary term equivalent 
 to floating island, used to denote several nondescript 
 trifles among the sweets. SNOW FLOAT Whipped 
 jelly served in a saucer of custard. RASPBERRY 
 FLOAT-Raspberry jam mingled with whipped white 
 of an egg or v.-hipped cream, served by spoonfuls in 
 a saucer of custard. 
 
 FLOATIXG ISLAND Various cold sweets go 
 by the name. (/)-A small sponge cake spread with 
 jelly, floating in boiled custard. (2)- A jelly cake or 
 sponge cake floating in a bowl of cream flavored 
 with wine. (j)-SpoonfuIs of whipped white of egg 
 dropped on the surface of a dish of custard, baked 
 long enough to slightly color. (^)-Spoonfuls of 
 whipped whites, sweetened, poached in boilng milk, 
 served in a dish of cold custard. (j)-Hollow merin- 
 gues or macaroons served floating in cream flavored 
 with wine. 
 
 FLOUNDERS A common and well known flat 
 fish found at the mouth of rivers, near the sea; good 
 to cut across and fry; is sometimes made to repre- 
 sent the sole; being skinned and filleted. FLOUN- 
 DERS, WHITE WINE SAUCE Two flounders skinned 
 on the dark side, scraped on white side, stewed 20 
 minutes in white wine, water, butter, salt, pepper; 
 Liken up, sauce thickened with flour. FLOUN- 
 DERS A LA JULES JANIN Two flounders, dark side 
 skinned, heads removed, slit down back and bone 
 taken out; incision filled with fish forcemeat, baked 
 with sherry and oyster liquor, sauce made of pan 
 liquor and espagnole with butter and lemon; gar- 
 nish of oysters and mushrooms. 
 
 FLOUR A barrel of good flour should make 
 from 270 to 285 five-cent loaves. Many bakers blend 
 Pour barrels, as two Minnesota springs and two In- 
 diana winters, before they get the right alloy. 
 
 FLUKE A northern sea-fish, found in Canadian 
 narkets; a flounder.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 319 
 
 FOI 
 
 FOIE-GRAS Fat liver; especially designating 
 the livers of fat geese; a comestible of great prom- 
 inence on all sides of French cookery; but, as in the 
 case of high-flavored cheese, herbs, spices, curry, 
 etc., the taste for the preparations oi foies-gras has 
 to be acquired, and there is but a limited apprecia- 
 tion of it here. "The goose is a bird that, after it 
 is dead, constantly thrusts itself on the stranger's 
 attention in Austria. Its apparition is frequent on 
 the tables and hotels at Vienna, and it reappears 
 more frequently as you descend the Danube. It is 
 the most chosen viand at Buda-Pesth. Here it 
 achieves its apotheosis. But it is not so much to the 
 bird itself as to that important organ, its liver, that 
 I desire to direct attention. The local commerce in 
 this delicacy is considerable. On certain streets the 
 attention of the pedestrian is attracted by the coun- 
 terfeit presentment of a goose, dead and cooked, be- 
 side which is a painted object so nearly like that he 
 is aware it is the liver of the deceased bird. This 
 sign indicates a shop whose sole business is to sell 
 roasted goose cut in pieces, goose livers and a sort 
 of biscuit made of chopped goose and flour. Here 
 is a temptation to those who are fond of pate de 
 foie-gras. On entering, the dealer is discovered 
 standing behind a huge tray filled, with livers ar- 
 ranged in rows, armed with a fork resembling Nep- 
 tune's trident. He passes the trident mystically 
 over the livers and names the prices 20 kreutzers, 
 25 kreutzers, 30, 40, 50 kreutzers, the latter being 
 from giant birds and weighing nearly a pound. 
 You take one of the smallest as a starter, and a bis- 
 cuit, and, adjourning to a neighboring wine-shop, 
 properly adjust your digestive apparatus to the unc- 
 tuous viand with a 'fourth' of white Hungarian 
 wine. No bad result follows, as with the artificially 
 fattened livers that cost their weight in gold in 
 America. Your digestion continues excellent. What 
 is the effect? The next day you come back and buy 
 a liver twice the size, take two rations of biscuit and 
 wash the repast down with a 'half of the same 
 wine, and so on. As this ratio of increase cannot 
 go on forever, you find yourself obliged to leave the 
 town a day or two sooner than you intended, to sub- 
 due a growing appetite, taking with you in your va- 
 lise a few pounds of goose livers to satisfy the pangs 
 of hunger and solace the regret of parting, for you 
 know, when you have left the Danube you can see 
 this luxury no more." PATE DE FOIE-GRAS Pie 
 of fat liver. "The individual who first discovered 
 the real use to which Dame Nature had predestfned 
 the goose that of having its liver abnormally fat- 
 tened reaped a fortune from his penetration and his 
 ingenuity. His name was Close, and he was chef 
 de cuisine to Marshal de Coutades, Governor of 
 Strasburg; hence the association of that town with 
 pate de foie-gras. The idea occurred to him one 
 day that he would make a pie from the livers of some 
 extremely fat geese which were hanging in the 
 larder; and the pie being made, the Marshal was de- 
 lighted, and at once gave an order that henceforth 
 
 FOX 
 
 the dish was to be included in the daily dinner, and 
 this was done so long as the Marshal was Governor. 
 De Coutades, however, was displaced, and his suc- 
 cessor was a Spartan, who believed in hard, black 
 bread and coarse broth, and voted all luxuries as 
 sinful. Under the altered circumstances the chef 
 Close resigned. He then comforted himself by 
 marrying a wealthy Strasburg widow, opened a pas- 
 try-cook's establishment, and made the pate defoie- 
 gras his specialty. Everybody who tasted it was 
 loud in its praise, and the lucky cook made a rapid 
 fortune, and was, of course, the initiator of a big 
 trade. Other makers, who followed in his wake, 
 mixed truffles in their livers, much to the satisfaction 
 of epicures." PATE DE FOIE-GRAS Paste of fat 
 iivers. Such as comes from Strasburg in jars. It is 
 made by cooking the fat goose or duck livers with 
 bacon, wine and aromatics, pounding it through a 
 seive, adding cut truffles to it, potting it like potted 
 meats. It is used in cookery to line pies made of 
 birds or any game, the boned birds being then 
 placed upon it alone with mushrooms and other sea- 
 sonings, and the intestices in some styles are filled 
 in either with the same pate de f:ie-gras, or, raw 
 foies-gras, or goose livers, such as the pies are made 
 of are put in as they are, without cutting or mincing. 
 IMITATION PATE DE FOIE-GRAS Calf's liver and 
 bacon, shallots, aromatics, wine; slowly cooked for 
 several hours in a slack oven, pounded, rubbed 
 through a seive. FOIE-GRAS SANDWICHES "Foie- 
 gras makes a very good sandwich for luncheon 
 purposes, if the public could be gradually brought 
 to like it. The principal difficulty in some of these 
 innovations or novel business uses for well-known 
 old culinary recipes, is to get the public to under- 
 stand or have sufficient confidence to try them." 
 COQUILLES DE FoiE-GRAS-Same as scalloped dishes; 
 made by placing half a lerrine (jar) of foie-gras in 
 a saucepan with half as much cooked mushrooms or 
 truffles; all cut in small dice; sauce added; put into 
 silver or other scallop shells; breadcrumbs on top; 
 baked in a pan with little water under till top is 
 browned. ASPIC DE FOIE-GRAS Squares or cubes 
 of foie-gras in aspic jelly. CROUSTADES DE FOIE- 
 GRAS Fried bread-shapes filled with dice-cut 
 goose livers in rich wine gravy. SMALL ROLLS 
 WITH FOIE-GRAS- Small rolls baked for the pur- 
 pose, quite round, hollowed out, and pate de foie- 
 gras filled in; for ball suppers and lunches. 
 
 FOND (Fr.) Bottom; foot. FONDS D'ARTI- 
 CH AUTS Artichoke bottoms. FOND DU LAC Foot 
 of the lake. 
 
 FONDU (Fr.) Melted. BuERREFoNDU-Melted 
 butter. 
 
 FONDUE (Fr.) A dish of cheese and eggs 
 scrambled together with butter in a frying pan. 
 
 FONDANT Cream fondant; soft, white cand> 
 made by boiling sugar to the ball; then working it 
 back and forth on a marble slab w'lh a paddle unti. 
 perfectly white. Used for making all the bon-bons,
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 FOR 
 
 such as chocolate creams, walnut creams, date 
 creams, etc., and, softened by heat, it is used to ice 
 cakes, being the best icing for that purpose. 
 
 FORCEMEAT The various compounds used 
 to stuff fowls, fish, pigs, tomatoes, egg plants, let- 
 tuce, etc. Some forcemeats are composed princi- 
 pally of chopped veal and bacon with herbs and 
 seasonings, some of finely pounded chicken breasts 
 bread-crumbs, butter, yolks, etc. Fish forcemeat 
 is pounded fish, eggs, butter, and flavorings. Force- 
 meat for egg plants, cucumbers and tomatoes con- 
 sist of the removed interiors mixed with minced 
 onions, bread-crumbs, suet or butter. 
 
 FOUETTEE (Fr.) Whipped, whisked. CREM E 
 FOUETTEE Whipped cream. SAUCE FOUETTEE 
 Pudding sauce of wine, sugar and eggs whipped to 
 froth. GELEE FOUETTEE Russian jelly, or wine 
 jelly, whipped while cooling till white and spongy. 
 
 FRAIS (Fr.) Fresh. BEURRE FRAIS Fresh 
 butter. 
 
 FRAISES (Fr.) Strawberries. 
 
 FRAMBOISES (Fr.) Raspberries. 
 
 FRAXCAISE (a la} In French style. 
 
 FRANCATELLI, CHARLES ELME An 
 English chef, author of an important culinary work. 
 He was a pupil of Careme and saw that great artist 
 deriving a large income as well as much fame from 
 his published cook books, which \vere, however, all 
 in French, and he took those books and from them 
 and his own practical experience he deduced an 
 Anglo-French system, becoming the interpreter of 
 French culinary art to the English, and giving the 
 country a new set of polished culinary terms to take 
 the place of the old homely nomenclature of the 
 kitchen, which had prevailed up to that time. 
 Among the faults of his really great work maybe 
 instanced the complicated nature of its directions 
 and the endless accessories to each principal dish, 
 leading the mind of the would-be learner off to a 
 bewildering number of preparatory processes and 
 causing him to give up the attempt in despair; its 
 studied avoidance of anything savoring of a simple 
 explanation; its nursing of mystery and use of ob- 
 scure language; its covering up of old, already well- 
 known and popular dishes with their foreign names, 
 as if to make them appear like new things and pre- 
 vent their immediate discovery, and its inculcation 
 of extravagance and profusion. This book seems 
 to have passed immediately out of Francatelli's 
 possession and became the very valuable property 
 of the publishers, for the book was favored by the 
 aristocracy, it complimented many of its members, 
 and sold well. The greatest profit of all, probably, 
 has been realized by its American re-publishers, 
 who have advertised it frantically and reaped rich 
 returns. This, of course, was of no benefit to either 
 Francatelh or his family. Of Francatelli himself 
 it is scarcely possible to find any printed particulars. 
 He was at one time c/ieflo the Reform Club, cAeflo 
 
 FRI 
 
 the Queen, chef at the St James Hotel, Piccadilly, 
 London, manager of the Free Masons' Tavern, 
 London. He died about 1870. A London hotel, 
 advertising in 1886, among other attractions an- 
 nounced that the services of Mr. Francatelli had 
 been secured as chef. A London journal, noticing 
 the ruse, hastened to proclaim that it was a son of 
 the great Francatelli who had been engaged. About 
 the same time an appeal for charity appeared in the 
 London trade papers in behalf of FrancatelH's 
 daughter, who was described as being in a very 
 destitute condition, and the smallest contributions 
 of those who desired to lend a helping hand would 
 be thankfully received. 
 
 FRANGIPANE Pastry cream or custard, such 
 as is used to fill cream puffs and eclairs; made of 
 I qt. milk, 6 oz. sugar, 4 oz. flour, 2 oz. butter, 6 
 yolks, boiled, flavored. Can be much varied, mixed 
 with whipped cream, with browned butter, with 
 orange or lemon pulp or syrup for cream pies, tarts, 
 fanchonettes, cheese-cakes, with chocolate, with 
 coffee, cocoanut, almond paste, etc. When made 
 stiff enough and the whites whipped firm and stirred 
 in, it is baked as souffles of all flavors, and either in 
 one large mould or in small souffle 1 cases; it puffs up 
 in the oven, and the souffles must be served as soon 
 as done. 
 
 FRANGIPANI PUDDING A well-made bread 
 pudding is now called a Frangipani pudding, after 
 a powerful Roman family, so called from -their be- 
 nevolent distribution of bread during a famine. 
 
 FRAPPE (Fr.) Semi-frozen. i^See carafes 
 frappees, champagne frappee.) 
 
 FRENCH BEAXS English name for string 
 or snap beans. 
 
 FRENCH DRESSING Indefinite; any salad 
 dressing; yolk of egg, oil, mustard, cayenne, sait; 
 mixed by stirring in a soup plate or bowl. 
 
 FRENCH SAUCE FOR OYSTERS A cruet 
 sauce made of 2 minced shallots steeped in 4 table- 
 spoons lime juice, salt and crushed pepper corns, 
 for 6 hours; lime juice strained off and little tarragon 
 vinegar added. 
 
 FRENCH ROLLS Indefinite; any good quality 
 hot rolls; pocket book shaped rolls, split rolls, 
 crusty cleft rolls, or tall, close -shaped bakery rolls. 
 
 FRENCH BREAD Indefinite. The bread now 
 called French is in very long loaves of one thickness 
 from end to end. At some Paris restaurants the 
 ; bakers leave loaves daily that are from one to two 
 ; yards long. The hotel method is to have special 
 ! pans made of Russia iron which are 5 or 6 narrow 
 moulds all in one piece. They are in the common 
 eaves-trough tin spout shape, about 3 inches across 
 and 18 inches long. The ordinary bread dough 
 baked in these makes the favorite crusty cylinder- 
 shaped loaf for the dinner table. 
 
 FRIANTINE (Fr.) Tit -bit. FRIANTINES AUX 
 HUITRES Bouchees of oysters; small patties.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 321 
 
 FRI 
 
 FRIED CAKES Domestic name for crullers, 
 doughnuts or "Jersey wonders." 
 
 FRIED PIES Domestic name for rissoles, ris- 
 solettes, kromeskies, or anything- made of paste, 
 folded and inclosing fruit or jelly. 
 
 FRICASSEE Common name in general use for 
 a stew without special characteristics further than 
 the division of white fricassee or brown. Originally 
 it meant a fry with a sauce. (Set Frogs.*) 
 
 FRICANDEAU A larded cushion of veal, 
 braised, or browned in the oven; also an imitation 
 of the same, made of a mixture of cooked and raw 
 meat weil seasoned, made up so as to be served in 
 broad slices. FRICANDEAU OF STURGEON Pieces 
 of sturgeon about 5 inches thick, skinned and larded 
 with bacon; laid larded side downwards in a stew- 
 pan with bacon, and fried till the larding is brown. 
 Taken up, put in a baking dish with mushrooms, 
 moistened with essence of ham or brown sauce 
 with ininced ham and onions; the larded side up- 
 wards, baked for an hour. 
 
 FRICAXDELLES A mixture of chopped meat 
 either cooked or raw or mixed, with some fat and 
 bread-crumbs and an egg, seasoned, made into pats 
 and fried. 
 
 FRITOT (Fr.) The original fricassee; chicken 
 cut into joints, floured, fried, served with cream 
 sauce. FRITOT DE POUI.ET AUX TOMATES The 
 chicken cut up, steeped in oil with onions, floured, 
 fried ; tomato sauce. 
 
 FRITTO (It.) A fry or a fritter; same as frilot. 
 
 FRITTQ MISTO (It.) Mixed fry. (Set Italian 
 cookery.) 
 
 FRITTER Something inclosed in a flour batter 
 and fried by immersion in hot fat. FRUIT FRITTERS 
 Slices or quarters of large fruit, spoonfuls of 
 berries, dipped in batter, taken up with a spoon and 
 dropped into frying fat. QUEEN FRITTERS Puffs 
 or hollow fritters made of same mixture as cream 
 puffs, fried instead of baked. BEIGNETS SOUFFLES 
 Same as queen fritters. SPANISH PUFFS A vari- 
 ation of queen fritters, containing a little sugar and 
 vanilla in the batter, same mixture as for eclairs; 
 fried instead of baked. (See beignets, corn fritters, 
 apples, par snip, cremcfrite, queen, etc.) 
 
 FROGS The frog, is one of the regular kinds of 
 meat now kept in stock in all good restaurants dur- 
 ing the season, which is fall and winter. The legs 
 are eaten of two kinds or more: the small green 
 marsh frog, which is supposed to be the better, and 
 the large bull frog, which attains to the size of a 
 squirrel in the south. In the course of business it is 
 found that the larger frog's legs have the readiest 
 sale; they resemble chicken in appearance and taste. 
 From 4 to 6 pairs of legs of the large sort is a res- 
 taurant portion 12 to 18 pairs of the small. Frogs 
 are caught with a rod and line. A bait of grub or 
 snail being tied to the line instead of a hook, it is 
 trailed along the surface, and the frog springs and 
 
 FRO 
 
 swallows it. They are caught also by shooting with 
 an arrow attached to a string, and in nets drawn 
 along the margin of the pond. When caught, they 
 are skinned; the body is thrown away; the legs with 
 enough of the spine to hold the two together are re- 
 served for cooking. In the New Orleans markets, 
 however, may be seen frogs of the very largest size 
 exhibited for sale alive in cages, where they are ev- 
 idently fed and fattened for market. At the same 
 stalls may be seen frogs skinned and hung up in 
 pairs, looking like white-meated squirrels of the me- 
 dium size, and not the legs ilone, but the entire 
 body, giving evidence that the entire frog is es- 
 teemed eatable by some customers at least. FRIC- 
 ASSEE OF FROGS The feet chopped off, the legs are 
 held in convenient shape by thrusting one stump 
 into the meat of the other leg, steeped an hour in 
 water containing vinegar; washed and placed in a 
 saucepan with onion, carrot, celery, a clove, herbs, 
 pepper, salt, and water to cover; stewed about % of 
 an hour. The frogs taken up, the broth strained 
 and thickened with flour and butter; finished with 
 yolks and cream, not boiled; butter, lemon juice and 
 parsley. FRIED FROGS A L'AMERICAINK Frog's 
 legs steeped for an hour in lemon juice, salt and 
 pepper; wiped dry; floured, egged, breaded, fried; 
 dished on a napkin with fried parsley and lemons. 
 GRENOUILLES A LA VILLEROY Frogs cooked as 
 for fricassee, mashed to a paste with Allemande 
 sauce; worked up like croquettes; breaded; fried. 
 FROG SOUP Made of 2 quarts good, seasoned veal- 
 broth and hind-quarters of 3 doz. small frogs cooked 
 in it; frogs taken up, mashed to a paste with bread- 
 crumbs; puree strained back into the soup; yolks of 
 eggs to thicken. Os DE GRENOUILLES Frogs' 
 bones; name of a sweet cracker sold in Paris. 
 
 FROMAGE (Fr.) Cheese. FROMAGE DE BRIE- 
 Brie cheese. BEIGNETS DE FROMAGE Cheese 
 fritters. 
 
 FROMAGE DE COCHON Head cheese; a dish 
 very popular in France; made by taking the skin off 
 a pig's head in one piece, taking the meat from the ( 
 bone and cutting it up with tongue, ears, some chit- 
 terlings, herbs, seasonings; all sewn up in the skin 
 of the head, boiled 3 hours, pressed into a mould 
 and baked a short time; eaten cold. 
 
 FROMAGE D'lTALIE Italian cheese, but 
 also the name of a kind of liver cheese reputed to 
 have been a favorite with Louis XI. Made of 5 Ibs. 
 liver, i Ib. lean pork, % Ib. fat pork, all minced; 
 pepper, salt, shallots, thyme nutmeg. Placed in an 
 earthen dish lined with shavings of bacon, wine to 
 moisten, bay leaves and bacon on top, baked three 
 hours, eaten cold. 
 
 FROST- FISH American small fish, plentiful 
 only in winter; cooked by rolling in flour and fry- 
 ing like whitebait or small trout. 
 
 FROSTING Domestic name for meringue or 
 
 icing of cakes. (See meringue.) FROSTED FKUITS 
 
 [ Cherries, currants, etc., dipped in white of egg
 
 322 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 FRU 
 
 and then in powdered sugar. FROST \\"ORK For 
 pedestals, cake stands, etc., is done by sprinkling 
 with diamond powder, from the paint shops, on a 
 wet surface; for scenery it is done with ground 
 glass. 
 
 FRUITS (Fr.) Fruits. The same in both lan- 
 guages. 
 
 FRUIT CAKE Various kinds and grades of 
 cakes containing raisins, currants and citron peel. 
 CHRISTMAS FRUIT CAKE Made of i Ib. each butter, 
 sugar, eggs, raisins, 2% Ibs. flour, 2 Ibs. currants, 
 J Ib. citron, nutmeg, spice, I cup milk; mixed like 
 pound cake, baked in moulds. (See Dundee cake.) 
 FRUIT CAKE i cup butter, 2 cups sugar, J cup 
 syrup, 5 eggs, 2 cups flour, 3 teaspoons baking 
 powder, i cup each citron, raisins, currants. 
 
 FRUIT PUDDING Commonly understood to 
 mean plum pudding. CHRISTMAS PUDDING Made 
 of 2 Ibs. bread-crumbs, i Ib. each suet and raisins, 
 ij Ibs. currants, ^ Ib. sultanas, J Ib. citron, y Ib. 
 sugar, 2 tablespoons flour, 4 eggs, 2 cups milk, i 
 nutmeg, brandy, spice; boiled 6 or 8 hours. 
 
 FUMET (Fr.) Essence of game; made by fry- 
 ing limbs, bones, carcasses of game in butter with 
 shallots and spices till browned, then stewing with 
 wine and stock, straining and condensing- by boil- 
 ing down. Used for adding to game sauces. 
 
 FUNGI See agaric, cepe, champignon, morel, 
 mushroom, orange, truffle. 
 
 FURMETY English, from Latin frumenli. 
 Wheat boiled in water until soft, milk and currants 
 added. Whole wheat porridge. 
 
 FUSTIC Venice sumach ; a dry wood employed 
 to produce yellow colors. 
 
 J. 
 
 GALANTINE A fowl or other kind of meat, 
 stuffed, boiled, pressed in a mould, decorated, eaten 
 cold. GALANTINE DE DINDE Boned (or boneless) 
 ' turkey. A slit is cut down the back, the meat care- 
 fully cut from the carcass, laid out flat and seasoned. 
 A filling of either another turkey or chicken, or 
 veal forcemeat or sausage placed upon it, the sides 
 drawn up to the original form, sewn, bound up in a 
 cloth, boiled 3 hours, in stock seasoned, pressed hot 
 into shape; taken out of the cloth when cold. It is 
 then a boned turkey only; becomes a galantine or 
 ornamental dish when decorated by being placed in 
 a larger mould, aspie jelly poured around, the 
 whole turned out when cold and garnished in various j 
 ways. GALANTINE DE POULARDE Boned chicken ! 
 in jelly. GALANTINE DE VEAU The fore-quarter ! 
 of veal, boned, stuffed, rolled, boiled in stock, j 
 pressed into a long mould, decorated with jelly, \ 
 shapes of yolk and white of eggs, beets, lemons, ; 
 etc. Sliced cold and served with jelly. GALANTINE 
 DE COCHON Galantine is occasionally made of ; 
 sucking pig, and is very popular in France. The 
 pig must be carefully boned, all but the head and . 
 
 GAM 
 
 feet. A sufficient quantity of veal, of fat unsmoked 
 bacon, and of bread panada must be chopped and 
 pounded to make enough forcemeat to stuff the pig 
 in the proportion of one part bacon, two panada, 
 and three of veal, seasoned with a teaspoonful of 
 onion juice and two of powdered sage. Galantines 
 of small birds are called ballotines. 
 
 GALETTE A plain shortcake, not sweet, but 
 sometimes sugared over the surface. Same as Ga- 
 teau de Plomb. 
 
 CALLING RENNET It is said that the rough 
 skin which lines the gizzards of fowls will curdle 
 milk for making cheese and cheese cakes as well as 
 calf's rennet. The skin is salted and then dried, and 
 a piece steeped in water for 8 hours makes the ren- 
 net; 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls to be mixed with the milk. 
 GALOPIX Galopin is a local term for a half- 
 bottle of wine. In Paris, the word means a "little 
 rascal," affectionately used. 
 
 GAME Nearly all game is better for being kept, 
 quails, snipe and woodcock being the exceptions. 
 It has been the rule to hang some game birds bv the 
 middle feather of the tail and cook the bird when it 
 fell. When game becomes a little too high, per- 
 manganate of potash will purify it from the taint, 
 if carefully employed. To keep game however, a 
 better way is to draw it as soon as it arrives; rinse 
 with soda and . water, then with pure cold water; 
 wipe dry and rub them lightly with fine salt and 
 pepper. Put a piece of charcoal inside each bird; 
 hang in a cool, dark place, with a cloth thrown over 
 them. Another way strongly recommended is to 
 fill the birds with oats or other dry grain and bury 
 them in grain. Probably, however, cold storage is 
 the best way of all to preserve game as well as other 
 meats. OLD GAME "People will say : 'What is to 
 be done with old game?' To that question I will 
 simply answer: ' Do anything but roast it.' An old 
 hare or an old rabbit may be turned to account by 
 making it into soup, puree, stew, civet, quenelle, or 
 pie. Of course, it will take a longer time to cook 
 than if the game were young; but as compensation 
 you will find more substance and more flavor in the 
 result. An old bird may be boiled, braized, or made 
 into fricassee, soup, forcemeat, and puree. Clear 
 consomme dugibier aux quentlles is a very nutritious 
 soup. It is made with carcasses and bones of old 
 game, the flesh of which has been pounded to make 
 the quenelles that are used as a garnish to the soup. 
 In France, old partridges are mostly vised in the 
 form oiperdrix aux clioiix. They are braised with 
 cabbage, bacon and sausages until tender. In Ger- 
 many they substitute sauerkraut for the fresh cab- 
 bage. Hares, rabbits, and large birds, such as phea- 
 sants, blackcock, etc., require to be thoroughly 
 cooked; but small birds, such as partridges, grouse> 
 woodcocks, snipe, quails, etc., ought to be eaten a 
 little underdone, when they will be more appreciated 
 by the real epicure. Small game is generally dished 
 on toast; bread-sauce is always served with phea-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 323 
 
 GAM 
 
 sants, partridges, grouse, and blackgame; with wild 
 fowl in general, quartered lemons are handed 
 round, and currant-jelly is sent up with roast hare. 
 CHOICE-BITS 
 
 " If the partridge had but the woodcock's thigh, 
 He'd be the best bird that ever did fly ; 
 If the woodcock had but the partridge's breast, 
 He'd be the best bird that ever was dressed." 
 
 SMALL GAME "All small game-birds should be 
 roasted in jackets made of very thin slices of salt 
 pork or bacon. Many persons do not like the taste 
 of smoked meats; the pork is therefore much better 
 to use, unless by special order." GAMY HINTS 
 " Game (birds) should be hung by the neck, and not 
 by the feet, as is commonly done. Hares should be 
 dressed when blood drops from the nose. The fishy 
 flavor of wild-flowl may be prevented by first boil- 
 ing them in water in which are salt and onions. 
 Game or wild-fowl for two or three are, however, 
 never better than when broiled." WEIGHTS AND 
 TIME "The average weight of grouse, partridges, 
 and pheasants, when prepared for the spit, is as fol- 
 lows: Grouse, 16 oz. ; partridge, ^ Ib. ; pheasant 
 (on the average), 2% Ibs. The following are the va- 
 rious lengths of time which game requires for cook- 
 ing, a point : Cock pheasant, three quarters of an 
 hour; hen, twenty -five minutes; half-grown bird, a 
 quarter of an hour; hare, one hour and a half; wood- 
 cock, half an hour; snipe, twenty minutes; quail, 
 twenty minutes; golden plover, twenty minutes; teal, 
 a quarter of an hour; capercailzie, an hour and a 
 quarter; and wild goose, an hour." THE NATURAL 
 FLAVOR " 'In the preparation of game,' wrote re- 
 cently an eminent Parisian c/iff, 'abstain from too 
 much seasoning. Do not use spicy herbs of any 
 kind, and scrupulously avoid all garlic, shallot, and 
 other onion-flavored vegetables. These ingredients 
 destroy the delicate intrinsic savor of game.' The 
 same person states that^rrzw thrushes should be 
 served en couronnt ;. e. , in a circle, round a bouquet 
 of smallage and of autumn marguerites. Pheasants 
 should be trimmed with the tail and wing-feathers, 
 and be served holding a rose in their beaks." 
 SYDNEY SMITH ON GRAVY " It is wickedness to 
 drench roast game with sauce. Sydney Smith says, 
 in describing a dinner at which he was present: ' I 
 heard a lady who sat next to me say in a low, sweet 
 voice: 'No gravy, sir!" I had never seen her before, 
 but I turned suddenly round and said: 'Madam, I 
 have been looking for a person who disliked gravy 
 all my life; let us swear eternal friendship.' She 
 jooked astonished, but took the oath, and what is 
 better, kept it." GAME WITH CHESTNUTS Phea- 
 sants, part :idges, quails, grouse, and plovers may 
 all be cooked by the following directions, and they 
 will be found to be very nice: A quart of large 
 chestnuts are boiled and mashed, one-half of it mixed 
 with 3 oz. butter, i cup cracker-dust, salt, pepper, 
 chopped parsley. Birds stuffed with it, wrapped in 
 thin slices of cooked ham, then in vineleaves tied on 
 them; baked; leaves and ham removed, chestnut- , 
 
 GAM 
 
 sauce made witn remainder of puree added to gravy 
 made of the livers, etc. NORTH UMBEK LAND GAME- 
 PIE "This ducal dish, for which Alnwick Castle 
 has been for centuries famed, is made thus: A good 
 raised pie-crust is made, such as one would prepare 
 for a large batch of pork- pies, or raised pies. The 
 crust is firm, yet mellow, and will not be like some 
 Melton (?) pies I know (nothing melting about 
 them), which require a hatchet to break them. 
 These cases are quite monsters. The inside consists 
 of 24 pigeons cooked and boned, the flesh pounded 
 in a mortar with the gravy in which they were 
 stewed added; then 24 fowls served in the same way ; 
 a layer of fine sausage-meat may be put round the 
 pigeons, which are formed into a long roll, then the 
 fowls, next slices of ham, then boned rabbit, phea- 
 sants, partridge, hare, tongue in slices, turkey-flesh, 
 until all is in one huge mass, then the bones of ham 
 shanks, couple of cows' heels, or a knuckle of veal 
 are stewed for hours. The meats are laid into the 
 case; the liquor, when nearly cold and freed from 
 grease, is poured in; the cover put on the pie; baked, 
 then glazed with egg, and the ornaments put on. 
 These will be popular on smaller scales, and to the 
 restaurateur they are valuable as they use up odds 
 and ends of game, etc., which whilst being per- 
 fectly good are not exactly presentable at table, and 
 too good for the stockpot, their ultimate destina- 
 tion." RICHARD II GAME-PIE" This recipe is to 
 be found in the books of the Sailers' Company, and 
 having been tested by their cook, was found to pro- 
 duce an excellent pie; which proves that our ances- 
 tors excelled in cookery more than four centuries 
 and a half ago. It is a recipe for making a game-pie 
 for Christmas in the reign of Richard II. Take a 
 pheasant, a hare, a capon, two partridges, two pig- 
 eons, and two rabbits; bone them and put them into 
 paste the shape of a bird, with the livers and hearts, 
 two mutton kidneys, forcemeats and eggballs, sea- 
 soning, spice, ketchup, and pickled mushrooms; 
 filled up with gravy made from the various bones." 
 LITTLE GAME PIES Raised-pie cases 3 or 4 inches 
 diameter are made and baked with a filling of flour 
 to keep them in shape; when done, the flour brushed 
 out, and cold galantines of game and imitation foie- 
 gras cut small and mixed filled in, and aspic jelly 
 poured in to level up; lids separately baked put on 
 and decorated. THATCHER HOUSE GAME PIE [spec-" 
 ialty] Is made in the following manner: Rub the 
 inside of a deep dish with two ounces of fresh butter 
 and spread over it some vermicelli. Then line the 
 dish with puff paste; have ready some birds seasoned 
 with powdered nutmeg and a little salt and pepper; 
 stuff them with oysters or mushrooms chopped tine; 
 place them in the puff-paste lined dish with their 
 breasts downward. Add some gravy of roast veal 
 or poultry (it may be cold gravy saved over from a 
 recent roast), and cover the pie with a lid of puffy 
 paste. Bake it in a moderate oven; and when done, 
 turn it out carefully upon a dish and send it to the 
 table. The vermicelli, which was originally at the
 
 324 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 GAM 
 
 bottom, will then be at the top, covering the paste 
 like thatch upon a roof. Trim off the layers so as to 
 look neat. PUREE-OF-GAME Sour The game is 
 boiled in stock or water with carrots, onions, celery 
 and herbs; when tender, the meat mashed, rubbed 
 through a strainer, mixed with bread-crumbs, and 
 the stock strained to it. Served with croutons of 
 fried bread. (See Grouse atid other kinds.) 
 
 GAMMON OF BACON A leg of salt pork. 
 English corruption of the French jambon, ham. 
 
 GARBURE "I remember some time ago six 
 American gentlemen from New York came to Big- 
 non's and said: 'Now, Joseph, we want a thor- 
 oughly good dinner.' I asked them what they 
 wanted, and they insisted on leaving it to me. Well, 
 this is what I gave them: First a potage gmrbiire ; 
 then J>ommes georgette ,' next a quail for each guest. 
 And would you believe that during their stay in 
 Paris they ordered that same dinner of garbure, 
 pommcs georgette and roast no less than eight times, 
 of which four times running?" Garbure is some- 
 thing which is served with soup rather than the soup 
 itself; it is crust of bread baked in a dish of fat broth ; 
 any sort of vegetable may be prepared and poured 
 over the baked but softened bread, and the real soup 
 is served separately. It is eaten by each person tak- 
 ing a spoonful of the bread from the baking dish, 
 its top-dressing of vegetable with it, and adding a 
 ladleful of soup to it in the soup-plate. In the in- 
 stance above mentioned the baked bread had a dress- 
 ing of parmesan cheese, and the soup served with it 
 wasjulienne. GARBURE WITH CABBAGE Cabbages 
 stewed with small sausages and bits of bacon; top- 
 crust of rolls baked in a dish with enough beef -broth 
 to moisten; the cabbage served on the bread; beef- 
 broth or other soup by the side. GARBURE WITH 
 CucuMBERS-Cucumbers in inch-lengths, parboiled, 
 then fried in butter, then stewed, served on top of 
 crusts baked in broth; a vegetable-soup in another 
 tureen. GARBURE A LA CLERMoxT-Onions in rings 
 fried to a yellow color, then stewed in broth, poured 
 over the baked crusts; beef-broth served in another 
 tureen. GARBURE A LA FRENEUSE Turnips cut in 
 pieces, -fried, then stewed, poured over the baked 
 crusts; beef-broth served separately. 
 
 GARGANTU A Rabelais, a French humorous 
 satirist of the sixteenth century, describes the do- 
 ings of Gargantua, who ate cattle as common people 
 eat chickens and was in all a wonderful glutton; 
 hence the allusions occasionally to Gargantuan 
 Feasts, meaning something extraordinarily large, 
 and Gargantuan Feeders, meaning great eaters. 
 "The following is a list of the hors d'anrvres served 
 at a Gargantuan repast: Carfare ; bontargues (saus- 
 ages made out of caviare); beurre jrays (fresh but- 
 c'er); purees de poys (puree of peas); espinars (spi 
 nach); arans blans bouffiz, araas sors (fresh and 
 pickled herrings) ; sardines, anchois, tonnine (tunny) ; 
 caules emV olif (cabbage preserved in oil); saulg re- 
 ntes de fibres (Mac^doine of beans); sallades cent 
 
 GAS 
 
 dh-ersites (a hundred different salads), of which are 
 mentioned cress, hops, samphire, mushrooms, as- 
 paragus, and honey-suckle salad; pickled salmon; 
 salted eels; huytres en escalles (oysters in their 
 shells.) This is from a French sixteenth-century 
 menu. It seems to me that caterers in quest of nov- 
 elties for the construction of their mentis vnight do 
 worse than consult Master Rabelais." 
 
 GARFISH A river-fish destructive to other 
 fishes, generally thrown away as worthless when 
 caught. It is said the strong oily taste of this fish is 
 no deeper than its skin, and after skinning and 
 steeping in water with vinegar and salt it is good 
 cooked in the same ways as eels. 
 
 GARLIC A bulb like an onion; useful for fla- 
 voring if used with great care. Its taste, if strong, 
 is very generally objected to by unaccustomed 
 palates, though it is eaten raw with bread, the same 
 as onions, by people of southern Europe. It can be 
 bought of Italian and Spanish gardeners or pro- 
 vision dealers. A CLOVE OF GARLIC Means one 
 of the natural divisions of the bulb, not a head of 
 garlic. Generally it is sufficient to rub the salad 
 dish with a slice of garlic, or to rub garlic on a crust 
 of bread and stir that up in the salad, or in a stew 
 or soup. 
 
 GARNISH A garnish is a ragout or mixture of 
 various tasty morsels in rich sauce, and as the whole 
 is made up of several parts necessity has prompted 
 the naming of many of the garnishes; thus aRich- 
 elieu garnish or a Financiere garnish always mean 
 the same things respectively without going into the 
 detail of their composition, and a piece of meat or 
 a fowl served with either garnish in the dish is 
 named accordingly: a la Financiere or a la Riche- 
 lieu. The misfortune of the case is that garnishes 
 and names are too numerous and the motive is too 
 small for anybody to learn more than about half a 
 dozen characteristic compounds. 
 
 GARNISH To garnish or decorate a dish with 
 something to enhance its attractiveness, such as the 
 bordering a salad with capers, parsley, beets or 
 lemons. 
 
 GARNISH Culinary expression meaning to fill 
 up, as when a shell of paste has been baked for a 
 pat6 the directions run to garnish the pie case with 
 fat livers and boned birds; or to garnish a border of 
 rice by filling it up with the sweetbreads prepared 
 for the purpose. 
 
 GARUM One of the two principal sauces used 
 by the ancient Romans, often mentioned by old 
 authors; a kind of soy, "the Romans knew and ap- 
 preciated the appetising charms of the oyster, albeit 
 it was served up with garum, a sauce made from 
 putrid fish which would disgust a modern gourmet. 
 
 GASPACHO See Spanish Cookery. 
 
 GASTRONOMY The science "of the stomach. 
 The knowledge of what, how, and when to eat. 
 GASTRONOMER One \vhosecures the utmost
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 325 
 
 GAT 
 
 enjoyment of the pleasures of taste within the limi- 
 tations of the laws of health. 
 
 GATEAU (Fr.) Cake. The forms of gateaux 
 are as various as the forms of cakes. The term 
 means almost anything from a cream pie to an orna- 
 mented tall cake for a party. GATEAU BABA A LA 
 MONTMORENCY A rich yeast-raised cake baked in 
 an ordinary tube cake mould, the top crust cut off 
 and kirsch syrup poured into the cake; apricot jam 
 spread thinly over, icing over that; made cold. 
 When served the hollow rilled with red currant ice 
 cream and candied cherries. GATEAU MAZARIN 
 A baba or yeast-raised cake, rich with butter and 
 eggs, but without sugar, baked in a plain mould 
 lined with almonds, split like a short-cake, when 
 done, and thick rum pudding sauce, containing 
 chopped citron and butter poured on both halves. 
 The two saturated halves are then placed together 
 and the cake served hot on a folded napkin. Suita- 
 ble for ball suppers and large parties. GATEAU 
 GENOISE AUX APRICOTS A jelly cake 6 or 8 inches 
 high, half of it cut out from the center to form a 
 well in the middle of the cake. Entire surface 
 spread with apricot jam and decorated, served with 
 apricot compote and whipped cream in the center. 
 GATEAU DE AMANDES A LA PARISIENNE A sheet 
 of puff paste with raised edges, filled with almond 
 custard, covered with a thin top crust, egged over, 
 sugared, baked. GATEAU A LA D'ARTOIS Same as 
 the preceding if made with jam or marmalade. 
 GATEAU DE PLOMB A plain rich shortcake, made 
 of i Ib. flour, % Ib. butter, I cup cream, I spoonful 
 sugar, salt, egged over, baked like a large plain bis- 
 cuit; eaten with butter and fruit. GATEAU NAPOL- 
 ITAINE Almond flavored jelly cake, iced and deco- 
 rated. GATEAU A LA VICTORIA A light baba or 
 yeast raised citron cake, served hot with almond 
 custard. GATEAU SAINT Louis A puff paste sheet 
 with raised edges filled with almond white frangi- 
 pane, chopped almonds on top, baked; similar to 
 white cocoanut pie. GATEAU SAINT CHARLES An 
 almond cake baked in a mould lined with paste. 
 GATEAU DE Riz Rice cake. GATEAU TIE MILLE 
 FEUILLES Thousand leaf pastry; jelly cake made 
 of baked sheets of puff paste piled on each other 
 with jelly between. GATEAU NAPOLEON Two 
 sheets of puff paste baked thin and dry, spread be- 
 tween with frangipane; cut in pieces to serve. PE- 
 TITS GATEAUX Small cakes. GATEAU FAUCHETTE 
 A Paris specialty, made by removing the center 
 from a freshly baked sponge cake, filling it with al- 
 mond frangipane; turning it over on a dish, cover- 
 ing with meringue, with granulated sugar sifted 
 over the surface, and baking sufficiently to slightly 
 color the outside, spotted with currant jelly; served 
 on a folded napkin, hot. GATEAU RHINE CLAUDE 
 OR STANLEY A cake hollowed in the middle, spread 
 over ("masked") with green-gage marmalade, filled 
 with green -gage ice cream. (See Ices.) PARIS 
 SPECIALTY " MEM. : Spinach in slight quantities is 
 very useful for giving a bright green color to such 
 
 GEN 
 
 entremets as ices and creams. It is used in this way 
 for "shading" Reine Claude ice cream, which would 
 otherwise have a dull color. This Reine Claude 
 cream is now much used for filling Stanley cakes, as 
 the new fashionable entremets in Paris is called. 
 The "gateau Stanley" is the invention of ChefLxi- 
 cien Charclon, and is made with baked baba dough 
 soaked in almond syrup, glazed with sugar-glazing 
 and masked as above." 
 
 GAUFFRE (Fr.) Wafer; waffle. 
 GELATINE Made first by Prevost about 1735, 
 the same who took in partnership Phillippe, who 
 afterwards became celebrated for his restaurant in 
 Paris. It is refined glue; may be obtained by boil- 
 ing down calves' feet, head, ears or skin until they 
 are dissolved, straining the liquor and then drying 
 it on shallow dishes. _ The transparency of some 
 kinds is due to clarifying processes. The whitish 
 kind in sheets is porous through being churned 
 while cooling, which makes it easier to dry, and is 
 an advantage in cooking as :t floats in the liquid and 
 cannot burn on the bottom as the transparent kinds 
 dp. Gelatine is one of the expensive articles of 
 hotel provision. The dearest is not necessarily the 
 best. The jellies to be made have to be clarified by 
 the cooks and one kind of gelatine is as good as 
 another provided it is without flavor. If kept in a 
 drug store gelatine will often acquire flavors from 
 neighboring substances that render it quite worth- 
 less. The quantity required is 1% ounces for I qU 
 of jelly, or i oz. for i qt. of milk or cream for blanc 
 mange, but more in warm weather than in cold. 
 PORTABLE JELLY Gelatine jelly can be made of 
 double strength, then dried down to the consistency 
 of gum drop candy, in small pieces or shreds, and 
 kept, and when wanted to make jelly can be dis- 
 solved in the right measure of hot water, and will 
 be jelly as soon as it can be made cold enough to set, 
 (See "jellies, Asp.c, Cremes.) 
 
 GELEE (Fr.) Jelly. 
 
 GELINOTTE Guinea hen, hazel hen. 
 
 GEM PANS American dariole moulds, made 
 of iron or tin, cast or joined together in sets of 10 
 or 12; made of various depths, generally hold z 
 ounces, are round, oval or scalloped. 
 
 GEMS American hot breads baked in gem pans. 
 CORN GEMS Corn meal, milk, butter, eggs, salt, 
 baking powder, and little flour, mixed thin enough 
 to pour out of a pitcher; gem pans filled and baked. 
 GRAHAM GEMS The same made of Graham flour. 
 There are several varieties; some sweet. WHEAT 
 GEMS Usually called wheat muffins, made both 
 with yeast and baking bowder; there are various 
 qualities. 
 
 GENEVA BUNS Sweet rolls made either by 
 adding to light bread dough some enriching in- 
 gredients, or with 2 Ibs. flour, i oz. yeast, i cup 
 warm milk, to set sponge; 2 eggs, 6 oz. sugar, 6 oz. 
 melted butter worked in; made in long buns, proned 
 till quite light, baked 15 minutes, sugared over.
 
 326 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 GEN 
 
 GKXEVA The term geneva, or gin, is derived 
 ffoatffXUVrf, the French word for juniper-berries. 
 The fruit of this tree was tried by Sylvius, a pro- 
 fessor of Leydon, who lived in the seventeenth cen- 
 tury, and found that it not only gave a very agreea- 
 ble flavor, but also possessed many valuable medi- 
 cinal properties. In consequence this liquor was 
 for a considerable time sold as a medicine by the 
 apothecaries, but on its excellent qualities becoming 
 better known, it was made on a more extensive 
 scale, and then received the name of the plant to 
 which it owed its peculiar flavor. 
 
 GENEVA WAFERS Same as wafer jumbles, 
 which run out thin in baking; can be taken up hot 
 and bent around to conical shape to hold whipped 
 cream; made of 4 oz. butter, 3 oz. sugar, 3 eggs, 
 4 oz. flour; vanilla flavor^ well beaten together, 
 dropped on pans with spoon. 
 
 GENEVA PUDDING Rice boiled in milk, and 
 puree of apples mixed together with eggs and wine, 
 sugar and butter; baked; wine sauce. 
 
 GENEVOISE (a /) In Geneva or Swiss style, 
 or with Genevoise satice. 
 
 GEVEVOISE SAUCE For fish. Brown sauce 
 with 2 oz. lean ham cut in pieces, a carrot, onion, 
 bay leaf, 3 cloves, peppercorns, % clove of garlic, 
 parsley, thvme, butter; all simmered together till 
 onion is tender; i pt. claret added; boiled down; 
 espagnole or brown sauce, or butter and flour, and 
 stock; salt, pepper; strained thiough a napkin by 
 twisting; anchovy essence and butter beaten in. 
 BROOK TROI-T A LA GENEVOISE Speckled trout 
 trussed with the head to the side to keep them in 
 upright position, cooked in equal parts red wine and 
 broth with garlic and herbs in a fish-boiler for 30 
 minutes; drained and served on a folded napkin 
 with Genevoise sauce, made of part of the fish-liquor, 
 served separately. 
 
 GENOISE SAUCE For fish. Good brown 
 sauce with chopped parsley, a glass of port, teaspoon 
 of anchovy essence, walnut catsup, pinch of mace; 
 boiled few minutes. 
 
 GENOISE CAKE Rich almond pound-cake of 
 several grades. (/)-Made of i Ib. each sugar, hut- 
 ter, almonds, flour, eggs, and a wine-glass of brandy. 
 The sugar and eggs whisked together until thick 
 and light; the almonds powdered and sifted; flour 
 and butter all stirred in; baked in moulds or in thin 
 sheets. (2)-RovAL GENOISE A London specialty; 
 made of i Ib. sugar, i6eggs, % Ib, butter, % Ib. flour, 
 % Ib. ground almonds; flavored with vanilla, almond 
 and lemon; sugar and eggs whisked light; butter 
 warmed and stirred in with the flour and almonds; 
 baked in sheets; not cut till cold. (J)-ORDINARY 
 GENOISE Made of same as the first above without 
 almonds. Better with 2 eggs less, or i Ib. of flonr, 
 i Ib. of pulverized sugar, i Ib. of butter, S eggs, a 
 little salt, and a few drops of essence of lemon. 
 GENOISE PASTRY Name given to small squares or 
 
 GER 
 
 shapes of genoise cake with jelly spread between, 
 and pink and white icing on top; cut out of large, 
 thin sheets of cake. Favorite kind for parties. 
 
 GENOA C AKE (/) Genoise cake with currants, 
 raisins, citron and ground cinnamon mixed in ; baked 
 in a shallow pan; glazed with sugar and chopped al- 
 monds, and baked to dry them. (2}-Onc pound but- 
 ter, i Ib. sugar, i^ Ibs. flour, 9 eggs, iJ4 Ibs. cur- 
 rants, % Ib. citron; lemon flavor. 
 
 GEODUCK "The greatest curiosity of all at the 
 dinner was, however, the geoduck. It is an im- 
 mense clam, the largest in the world. One will fill 
 a bushel-basket. They are found only in Puget 
 Sound,\Vashington Territory. Government officials 
 tried to bring one alive to the Smithsonian Institute, 
 in Washington, in 1882, for the United States Fish 
 Commissioners. The specimen was boxed and taken 
 by steamer to San Francisco, where it gave up the 
 ghost. Its scientific name is the Glycerinus. It re- 
 sembles a great fresh water clam in form, color, and 
 texture of shell." There is another, an East Indian 
 clam of immense size; a single one will make a meal 
 for ten men. The shells are deeply and handsomely 
 scolloped, and are to be seen at the shell stores. 
 
 GERMAN COOKERY To appreciate German 
 cookery and to enjoy thoroughly some of the real 
 delicacies it produces, it is necessary first to aban- 
 don all American ideas on the fitness of things, and 
 when you have succeeded in doing so get rid of the 
 English and French ones as well. For a stranger 
 the dinner hour in any German city is a most puzz- 
 ling matter. He may begin a round of visits at one 
 o'clock and continue them till five, finding everyone 
 at dinner. For, although the most usual time is one 
 or half -past, the Emperor dines at four, most of the 
 government employes at half past two, and the 
 wealthy class at five. The most characteristic meal 
 in the southern portion of the Empire is the jause, 
 which, like the English "tea," comes between din- 
 ner and supper. The ladies ask each other to their 
 apartments, drink coffee and eat kuffelliupf (a spe- 
 cies of fine pound cake with very large holes in it 
 yeast-raised kauglanf} and kipfel (little rolls in the 
 shape of a horn). The men meet in the cafes and 
 take similar refreshments. The customary dinner 
 of the upper middle class is soup; boiled beef with 
 sauce, vegetables, pickles; roast veal or poultry, 
 and either salad or a pudding, on Sunday both salad 
 and pudding. The favorite sauce with beef is 
 horse-radish (kren) and onions. Your German 
 friend cuts all his meat in pieces, dips each piece 
 systematically into all the little vegetable or sauce 
 dishes, which are grouped around, before he puts it 
 in his mouth. The German states are better sup- 
 plied with game than any other part of Europe. 
 The Bohemian pheasants (faisans de Bo/ieme) are 
 celebrated. Capercailzie and black-cock come from 
 the Styrian mountains. Hares are exceedingly 
 numerous; venison abounds. The vast, swampy 
 reaches of the rivers afford snipe and duck-shoot-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 327 
 
 GER 
 
 ing in abundance. Two or three times a year wild 
 geese in immense flocks fly across the .country and 
 great uumbers are killed. Woodcocks and geli- 
 nottes are brought to market from Hungary; in 
 short, nowhere is the material for good living- more 
 plentiful or cheaper than in the German markets. 
 In order to enjoy any of these, however, it is quite 
 essential for the stranger to warn the headwaiter 
 that the bird ordered must be brought in whole for 
 the guest to do his own carving, that art being 
 utterly unknown, at least in the public cafes, and 
 method substituted for carving is a barbarous chop- 
 ping of every bird or fowl straight across in halves 
 and quarters, limbs, breast, bones, splinters, all 
 mixed up together. In earty summer back-hendl 
 is the favorite delicacy. It is spring chicken bread - 
 crumbed and fried. Next to back-hendl, the most 
 universally liked dish is Wiener -Schnitzel. This is 
 simply a veal cutlet breaded and fried, with slices 
 of lemon around it. It is a safe thing to order al- 
 most anywhere; you can eat it in a Bierhalle or 
 large middle-class restaurant, where very little else 
 would be worth having. The special forte of 
 Viennese cooking lies in the sweets. The soufflets, 
 puddings, tea and dinner cakes, brioches and tarts 
 of Vienna are unequalled even in Paris. The way 
 an Austrian cook makes a rice pudding is sufficient 
 to convert even a school boy to love plain puddings. 
 The variety of German sweets {Mehlspeiseii) is 
 enormous, it would fill pages to describe them. 
 GERMAN DISHES These are dishes which one 
 traveler did not relish and he thought them strange, 
 though they seemed good to his German entertain- 
 ers: Cold potato salad, boiled beef and raspberry- 
 jam, spinach fried in butter, wine and raisin soup, 
 pancakes three inches thick fried in the oil of 
 Spanish onions, pork sausage fritters, raw her- 
 rings and cucumber with treacle sauce, veal cut- 
 lets garnished with boiled stick liquorice. GER- 
 MAN POTATO SALAD The ingredients of a real 
 German winter salad are cold boiled potatoes 
 cut up into quite small pieces, some capers, or 
 a few olives chopped up, anchovies stripped off the 
 bones and cut into small pieces, and a little finely- 
 chopped parsley. To these may be added beetroot and 
 celery, if desired, which should also be cut up into 
 small pieces. All the ingredients to be well mixed. 
 For the dressing, to the proportion of two eggs of 
 which the yolks, hard boiled, only are used put 
 one tablespoonful of salad oil, a little cayenne pep- 
 per, salt and mustard to taste; and a small teaspoon- 
 ful of pounded loaf sugar. When these are well 
 mixed, add three tablespoonfuls of cream or good 
 milk, and, lastly, stir in one tablespoonful of vin- 
 gar. Pour the dressing over the salad just be- 
 fore serving. GERMAN VEGETABLE Soup-One of the 
 most nutritious and appetising soups known to the 
 German gourmet. Put into a stew-pan 12 onions, 
 i turnip, and a head of cabbage, j Ib. of butter, 
 and i qt. of white stock; stew till tender. Add 
 another qriart of stock, pulp the vegetables, and 
 
 GER 
 
 t 
 boil with the soup % an hour, stirring constantly; 
 
 just before serving stir }4 pt. boiling cream and 
 about 20 button onions picked and boiled soft in milk 
 and water. Season with salt, and thicken, if desired, 
 with rice-flour worked with butter. GERMAN 
 STEWED EELS Cut in 3 inch pieces, steeped in salt 
 water an hour; butter and flour fried together and 
 water to make sauce of it; garlic, sage leaves, bay 
 leaf, mace, cloves, Rhine wine, eels put in and sim- 
 mered an hour. GERMAN ROAST GOOSE The goose 
 wiped inside and filled with small whole apples, 
 cored but not peeled; also a small bunch of mug- 
 wort. Sewed up, salted, the goose fat spread over 
 it and buttered paper; roasted in the oven 3 hours; 
 gravy made in the pan. BEEFSTEAK MIT SCHLAG- 
 SAIINE "I have dined and lunched at the Zum 
 Kniephof since, and have been contented with the 
 fare. I shall speak about its bill of fare on a futuie 
 occasion, mentioning, meanwhile, that beefsteak 
 mil Schlagsahne that is, with whipped cream on it 
 is a specialty of the house. German people like 
 their beefsteaks served with all kinds of curious ad- 
 ditions, as with two poached eggs, or sardine-butter 
 on the meat. The beefsteaks are always good, being 
 cut from the fillet. I have not had a single tough 
 beefsteak, or other piece of meat, since I have been 
 here." KNIEPHOF BROEDCHEN "Another special 
 ty at the Zum Kniephof is the Kniephof Broedchen, 
 or sandwich. I asked for a plate of this out of 
 curiosity, and found it to consist of six slices of roll, 
 each differently spread, one with a caviar, two with 
 sausage, one with veal, one with beef, and one with 
 cheese, arranged in star-fashion round a centerpiece 
 of a leaf of lettuce, some chopped cucumber, and an 
 anchovy. The price of this assortment, which con- 
 stituted a complete meal, was only 6d." KRAM- 
 METSVOGEL "Another not so substantial but tasty- 
 dish is that of Krammetsvogel, which we call the 
 field -fare. This little bird, roasted and served upon 
 buttered toast, is in taste by no means distant from 
 the snipe, and, indeed, but for the beak, might well 
 be mistaken for it. Sauerkraut accompanies the 
 dish, and for one of these winter tenants of the 
 fields the diner is charged during the hours of the 
 mid-day meal the sum of 3d., a not high price for 
 a dainty morsel." CARAWAY MAYONNAISE "The 
 refreshments consisted of a very well stocked cold 
 buffet, from which I fetched a plate of the best roast- 
 beef I have ever eaten. It was served with mayon- 
 naise sauce, which was flavored with caraway 
 seeds." GERMAN HOTCH-POTCH Neck of mut- 
 ton broth with dried green peas and carrots and 
 turnips cut small, and celery root or seed; boiled 
 i y 2 hours, some mutton chops added; seasonings, 
 chops and soyp served together. GERMAN GIBLET 
 Sot'P Puree of white beans with some whole boiled 
 beans added, and giblets cut small, stewed tender 
 and mixed in. GERMAN GIBLETS WITH APPLES 
 Brown giblet stew in the middle of the dish, gravy 
 from them mixed with apple juice and zante cur- 
 rents poured over; quarters of apples stewed with
 
 328 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 GER 
 
 sugar and butter placed around. GERMAN GIBLETS 
 WITH PEARS Goose giblets and pork chops stewed 
 together; quartered pears stewed in the giblet liquor 
 with cloves and sugar and served around the gib- 
 lets in a dish. GERMAN GIBLETS WITH TURNIPS 
 Stewed giblets cut small, served with slices of 
 stewed turnips in thick sauce, and sippets of toasted 
 bread. GERMAN TOAST Canapes of toast spread 
 over with minced stewed meat with its sauce, the 
 meat to be stirred over the fire first, with eggs, pars- 
 ley and seasoning; after spreading, covered with 
 crumbs and browned. GERMAN SAUCE For cold 
 meats, boar's head, etc., currant jelly, juice and 
 shredded rind of an orange, horseradish, sugar, 
 mustard, vinegar, salad oil. The jelly to be melted 
 and the rest stirred into it. GERMAN HORSERADISH 
 SAUCE Grated horseradish and stewed apples in 
 equal quantities, with vinegar and little sugar. 
 FRANKFORT SAUSAGES Made of lean pork, fat ba- 
 con, red wine to moisten, ground coriander seed, 
 nutmeg, salt, pepper, boiled, smoked. CHICKEN 
 KLOSSE Forcemeat balls of raw chicken, suet, 
 bread, eggs, parsley, seasoned, boiled in clear soup. 
 GOOSE LIVER KLOSSE Forcemeat balls of minced 
 liver with bread, milk, eggs, etc., to make up into a 
 paste; may be either boiled in soup or fried same as 
 croquettes. HERB KLOSSE Bread-crumbs, grated 
 cold potatoes, flour and eggs, spinach and other 
 herbs parboiled, all made up into forcemeat balls, 
 boiled, rolled in fried bread-crumbs, served with 
 meat or alone. POTATO KLOSSE Potato croquettes. 
 POTATO KLOSSE WITH SUGAR Sweetened potato 
 croquettes served with sugar. KLOSSE Can be made 
 of any kind 61 meat mixed with soaked biead- 
 crumbs and seasoning, either boiled or fried, served 
 in soup, or with meat-stews or alone; should be sent 
 to table hot anfl light as soon as done. MEHL STERZ 
 Thick mush or porridge of oatmeal or any kind of 
 meal with plenty of butter stirred in. HEIDELBERG 
 PUNCH Pieces of cucumber sliced, i lemon rind, 3 
 tablespoons sugar, worked together with the back of 
 a spoon; 3 tablespoons brandy, 6 of sherry, i bottle 
 claret, 2 bottles soda water. GERMAN HONEY 
 CAKES Square small cakes with citron strips and 
 almonds on top, made of S oz. honey, 2 oz. butten 
 boiled together; rind of }^ lemon, 2 oz. almonds 
 pounded nutmeg, 8 oz. flour, ^ oz. soda dissolved 
 in little water. Stand till next day, rolled out thick, 
 decorated, baked. GERMAN CAKES Cookies, 
 made of ij^ Ibs. sugar, % Ib. butter, 4 eggs, 
 2 Ibs. flour, i Ib. currants, nutmeg, rosewater 
 to flavor. Rolled out and cut in cakes. GERMAN 
 OMELET An egg pancake, baked on both sides; 
 made of 2 spoonfuls flour, 3 eggs, % cup cream or 
 milk, salt, pepper, nutmeg, little chopped chives 
 and parsley. When the pancake is baked on both 
 sides it is spread with puree of mushrooms and 1 
 rolled up; cut in pieces, served around a center of j 
 vegetables in the dish. GERMAN ALMOND CAKES 
 Made of i Ib. butter, i Ib. sugar, 3 eggs, 2 Ibs. 
 flour, i gill rose water, 8 oz. almonds, i teaspoon 
 
 GIG 
 
 cinnamon. Rolled out, egged over, the blanched 
 almonds chopped, and sugar spread over; cut in 
 cakes and baked. GERMAN CREAM Rich cream 
 boiled up, flavored with sugar, lemon and brandy; 
 served cold in a state of froth by being shaken up. 
 GERMAN CROUST AD ES Patty shapes of fried bread 
 filled with minced chicken. GERMAN FRITTERS 
 See Berlin pancakes and apple fritters. GERMAN- 
 CUP PUDDINGS Made of 2 oz. flour, 4 oz. butter, i 
 pt. milk, 2 oz. sugar, 3 eggs, lemon flavor; the flour 
 stirred up with the milk, butter softened and beaten 
 in with sugar and eggs, baked in buttered cups; 
 whipped German custard sauce. GERMAN PUD- 
 DING, STEAMED Made of 8 oz. bread-crumbs, 3 oz. 
 each sugar and butter, 4 eggs. A layer of this mix- 
 ture alternately with layer of jam or jelly in a 
 mould; steamed. GERMAN RICE PUDDING A rice 
 and raisin custard, made of 4 oz. rice boiled in I pt. 
 milk, mixed with 4 oz. butter, 2 oz. almonds 
 pounded (or paste), 2 oz. each sugar and raisins, 
 little cinnamon, 3 yolks. Just before boiling or bak- 
 ing'. 3 whipped whites stirred in. GERMAN PUD- 
 DING SAUCE Light wine with sugar boiled up and 
 poured to beaten yolks, not allowed to boil again, 
 but whipped to froth and served hot. GERMAN 
 PUFFS Made of i qt. milk, S oz. flour, S oz. butter, 
 2 eggs, nutmeg and cinnamon. Flour stirred up 
 with milk, softened butter beaten in, eggs whipped 
 stirred in; baked in buttered cups, served with pud- 
 ding sauce, or hot for breakfast. CAGE BIRO 
 PASTE, GERMAN Made of 4 hard-boiled yolks 
 pounded in a mortar with i Ib. white pea meal and 
 i tablespoon olive oil; mixed to a dough, pressed 
 through a colander to form grains like shot, fried 
 over the fire light brown, put away dry for use. 
 
 GHERKINS Small cucumbers of a dwarf kind; 
 also young common cucumbers. Used for pickling. 
 
 GIBIER (Fr.) Game. PATE DE GIBIER Game 
 pie. 
 
 GIBLETS The neck, liver, gizzard, heart and 
 feet of geese and ducks and similar trimmings of 
 any fowls. PATE D'ABATIS D'OiE Pie of goose- 
 giblets. ABATIS DE DINDE Turkey-giblets. GIB- 
 LET PATTIES The gizzards boiled until tender sep- 
 arately; then cut from the hard skin into small dice; 
 livers, etc.; stewed in wine-gravy; gizzards added; 
 filled into patty cases, or croustades, or cassolettes. 
 GIBLET SOUP Good stock of mixed meats and poul- 
 try; giblets and vegetables cut fn dice in it, and little 
 barley or rice. 
 
 GIGOT (Fr.) Leg or ham; especially a leg of 
 mutton. GIGOT ROTI Roast leg of mutton. GIGOT 
 BOUILLI AUX CAPRES Boiled leg of mutton; caper 
 sauce. GIGOT A LA POLONAISE Leg of mutton in 
 Polish style; braised, cut in slices without severing 
 them from the bone, and a stuffing put between each 
 slice. GIGOT A LA BRETONNE Leg stuffed and 
 braised; served with Bretonne sauce and stewed 
 white beans. GIGOT A LA RUSSE Leg ff mutton 
 roasted, and the cooking finished in burning brandy.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 329 
 
 GIN 
 
 served with the gravy and brandy. GIGOT A LA 
 PROVEN^ ALE Leg of mutton with strips of garlic 
 inserted; roasted and served with Bretonne sauce. 
 GIGOT D'AGNEAU A LA PALESTINE Leg of lamb 
 boiled; served with puree of Jerusalem artichokes. 
 GIGOT D'AGNEAU AUX EPINARDS Leg of Iamb 
 with spinach. GIGOT DE PORC BOUILLI Boiled leg 
 of pork with vegetables. GIGOT DE PORC A LA PIE- 
 MONTAISE Leg of pork roasted; served with brown 
 sauce, pickles, and olives, GIGOT DE PORC A 
 L'ALLEMANDE Leg of pickled pork boiled, and 
 served with cabbage, sauerkraut or other vegetables. 
 GIGOT D'OuRS Leg of bear. 
 
 GIN Spirit made from wheat or other malted 
 grain, flavored with juniper berries. " In the reign 
 of Henry XIII it was decreed that there should be 
 but one maker of aqua rites, as whisky and gin were 
 then called, in every borough, under a penalty of six 
 shillings and eight pence, a sum of much more value 
 in those days than it is now. Some idea of the ex- 
 tensive trade done at the present time in this spirit 
 mav be gathered from the fact that there are at 
 Schiedam alone upwards of 300 distilleries, or rather 
 manufactories, of malt wine, which is the basis of 
 prime geneva. Juniper berries are round, of a black- 
 ish-purple color, and contain an essential oil which, 
 when obtained separately, is of a greenish-yellow 
 color, and resembles in odor and taste oil of turpen- 
 tine. It is greatly superior and far more beneficial 
 to the health than the latter, but owing to its greater 
 price oil of turpentine is largely used by the less 
 conscientious distillers. 
 
 GINGEMBRE (Fr.) Ginger. 
 
 GIXGER The root of a reed-like plant with an- 
 nual leafy stems 3 to 4 feet high. Cultivated in warm 
 countries; does not grow wild. The common brown 
 ginger-root is in its natural state; the white, known 
 as Jamaica ginger, is the root scraped and washed 
 free from its outer coating. Ground ginger is con- 
 siderably adulterated, generally with starchy sub- 
 stances and also with old ginger from which the 
 "essence of ginger" has been extracted. GINGER 
 PUDDING " For a wonder the confirmed joker of a 
 proprietor was serious! He didn't perpetrate above 
 three puns and four witticisms per minute! On his 
 memi for the day was ginger pudding, and he asked 
 me to try it, which 1 did. It is such a capital, yet 
 inexpensive specimen of culinary art that I asked 
 him for the recipe. Here it is: Ginger Pndcling- 
 2 Ibs. bread -crumbs, % Ib. finely chopped suet, I Ib. 
 molasses, % Ib. sugar, i oz. baking powder, % oz. 
 ground ginger, 3 eggs; boil in buttered moulds; 
 should the mixture be too stiff, add a little milk spar- 
 ingly, the pudding ought to come out of a light 
 golden color, and be as light as a feather. I commend 
 this to caterers who have to give plenty for money." 
 "I have met another ginger pudding of late, which 
 has about a dozen different names. The most pop- 
 ular, however, are 'Chinese Pudding" and 'Golden 
 Pudding.' This new thing is merely a very light 
 
 GLA 
 
 but sweet plain pudding with lumps (about i-inch 
 cubes) of Chy-loong preserved ginger in it, and 
 served with custard sauce colored with saffron. On 
 dit that this novelty originated at Smedley's Hydro, 
 at Buxton." GINGER BEER Is made of zj^ Ibs. 
 sugar, 2 oz. bruised ginger, 4 lemons (rind and juice), 
 J oz. cream tartar; 2% gls. boiling water poured to 
 them in an earthen jar; when cold, little yeast added; 
 stand till next day ; then bottled, and corks tied down ; 
 ready for use in 2 days. GINGERBREAD Old-fash- 
 ioned sort made of i} Ibs. black molasses, J^ Ib. 
 butter, 3 eggs, i oz. ginger, ^ Ib. brown sugar, 24 
 oz. flour, caraway seeds, candied peel, juice of lemon, 
 i teaspoon soda; all mixed over night, worked like 
 bread, baked in flat sheet i inch thick, brushed over 
 with milk. THIN GINGER WAFERS Pounded gin- 
 ger, i oz. ; butter, 4 oz. ; flour, 4 oz. ; golden syrup, 
 4 oz. Beat the butter and mix with the golden 
 syrup; stir in the flour and ginger; roll out thin and 
 bake for 15 minutes in slow oven; roll like wafers 
 whilst warm. GINGER SNAPS One pint molasses 
 and i cup lard heated together and poured hot in I 
 qt. flour, 2 teaspoons soda and 2 ginger; let this 
 dough cool, add flour enough to roll ; roll thin and 
 bake quick. GINGERBREAD FAIR "The great gin- 
 gerbread fair is in full swing now at Pans. I have 
 often wondered why the Paris Municipal Council 
 don't tender for the unsold stock of the vendors of 
 gingerbread. The wood-paving they use is so un- 
 satisfactory that something more solid, more heavy, 
 and more wear-resisting might well be tried in its 
 stead!" 
 
 GIPSY PUDDING Or gipsy cake; also called 
 tipsy cake and tipsy parson. A sponge cake pricked 
 all over with a fork is saturated with wine and 
 brandy poured over it at intervals as it soaks up the 
 liquor. Split-almonds stuck all over it, rich flavored 
 custard poured around and served with it, cold. 
 
 GIRAUMONS (Fr.) Vegetable marrows; sum- 
 mer squashes. 
 
 GLACE (Fr.) Means both iced or glossed over, 
 as an iced cake, and frozen. GREME GLACE Ice 
 cream. BISCUITS GLACES Cakes of ice cream. 
 
 GLADSTONE PUDDING A pear custard pie 
 made of a layer of lady fingers in bottom of dish, 
 canned bartlett pears sliced over them, yolk-of-egg 
 custard poured in, puff paste crust on top, egged 
 and sugared; glass of sherry in when done; served 
 cold. 
 
 GLAZE It is what remains when meat liquor is 
 boiled down till nearly dry; it is extract of meat; it 
 is meat gravy dried down thick enough to set solid 
 when cold. It is improved by the cooks by flavor- 
 ings of herbs, etc., added while it is boiling, and is 
 strained and skimmed, making it a brown, stiff 
 jelly; but that from chicken and veal is not dark, 
 and is mentioned in cooking directions as white 
 glaze. Used to add to sauces to make them rich 
 and meaty, and to enrich soups when the meat is 
 insufficient; also used to glaze or varnish over
 
 330 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 GLA 
 
 cooked meats and vegetables before sending them 
 to table, making them glossy and tempting in ap 
 pearance. "The glaze is melted like glue and ap 
 plied with a brush like varnish; a glaze-pot is made 
 on the same principle as a glue-pot. I remember 
 some years ago getting up a dinner where the 
 kitchen windows abut upon the pavement of Park 
 Lane, by Hyde Park. I was engaged in glazing 
 some hums and tongues, when I became aware that 
 my proceedings were being intently watched by a 
 group of street arabs, one of whom could contain 
 his feelings no longer, but shouted to his pals: 'Hi! 
 look 'ere, see! why, the cove in the white jacket is 
 a-varnishing the meat.' Buy glaze from the chefs 
 in gentlemen's families; the ordinary glaze of gen- 
 eral commerce is made from beef only reduced to a 
 sort of glue, but a chefs stock or bone -pot in a 
 good family contains beef, veal, and the carcasses 
 of poultry and game, thus forming a much richer 
 and tastier glaze than if from beef only, which is 
 comparatively insipid. After the soups and sauces 
 are made from the first boilings, the pot is boiled up 
 with all the scrap bones and meat cuttings and all 
 other good things; it is then strained off and boiled 
 down rapidly until it assumes the consistency of 
 glue; it is then poured into skins while hot, or into 
 basins and solidifies into solid essence of sopp, dif- 
 fering from the essence of beef sold by manufactur- 
 ers, in the fact that it contains the gelatine as well 
 as the meat, poultry and game essences. You can 
 sometimes arrange to buv this glaze from chefs at 
 2s. 6d. per lb., as after reserving an abundant sup- 
 ply for family use, the overplus is generally the 
 chefs perquisite. This glaze dissolved in boiling 
 water and boiled up makes splendid clear soup." 
 
 GLACE DE VIANDE "One of the last author- 
 ities on the dying art of cookery in France, the last 
 eloquent writer thereupon, the Marquis de Cherville, 
 published a few days ago a learned article on Dumas 
 fere from the gastronomical point of view; and, 
 speaking of his proficiency and of his fidelity to tra- 
 dition, said: ' Never would that genuine artist have 
 allowed himself in the confection of a sauce, to ac- 
 cept bouillon as a substitute for glace de viande.' 
 And this opens up to the uninitiated a vista as wide 
 as the backgrounds of Leonardo da Vinci, the in- 
 finite whereof remains amystery still to the profane. 
 Imagination is wanting in the female cook; and 
 therefore does no woman ever make a jus. She stops 
 at the soup and the bouilli. But, if your purse per- 
 mits, you must sacrifice both of these to make a jus, 
 or that glace de viande for which Dumas would ac- 
 cept no substitute. When twelve or fourteen quarts 
 of water are reduced to half, and the entire ingre- 
 dients are taken away, then begins the 'reduction,' 
 in good earnest, and from the remaining essence 
 you obtain your fond de jus." 
 
 GLAZING CAKES Means to make them shine 
 by either egging, or egging and sugaring the tops, 
 or by brushing over with milk, or by covering with 
 sugar and water icing. 
 
 GON 
 
 GLUCOSE Grape sugar or the kind of sugar 
 that will not granulate. The recent discoveries of 
 methods of making it abundantly have had a great 
 effect upon the confectionery trade, glucose being 
 but about half the price of sugar, and consequently 
 a cheapener of candies, syrups, jellies, and numer- 
 ous other compounds. One, perhaps the principal 
 method of producing glucose is by treating corn 
 meal with sulphuric acid, which changes the corn to 
 a sweet gum. In the great corn-producing regions 
 there are immense buildings erected especially, one 
 in Chicago being nine stories in height, an entire 
 block of brick. Glucose is as wholesome as any 
 other syrup. In appearance it is like the white syrup 
 known as silver drips, but is too thick to run; can 
 be taken up on a pallet knife like the thickest mo- 
 lasses in cold weather; is as clear as glass. It comes 
 in another form, however, in barrels, when it is 
 lumpy like gum and syrup mixed, when it is at the 
 nearest approach to being sugar. It costs about an 
 average of four cents a pound. GLUCOSE IN ICE 
 CREAM One good use of it is to sweeten ice cream, 
 the effect when the cream is well worked ii to make 
 it very smooth and soft to the palate. IN CANDIES- 
 It is used with about twice its weight of sugar in 
 making gum-drops and all that class of goods, and 
 in imitation fruit-jellies, maple syrups and cheap- 
 ening devices of many descriptions. GLUCOSE IN 
 BREAD "The bakers are endeavoring to make first- 
 quality bread out of low-grade flour. A successful 
 attempt in this line is reported as having been made 
 by a Swiss baker, who mixes glucose, or starch- 
 sugar, with low-grade flour, and is thereby enabled 
 to turn out a loaf which closely resembles the pro- 
 duct of high-grade flours, at a lessened cost." GLU- 
 COSE IN SUGAR BOILING It has the same effect to 
 prevent sugar going to grains again as acids have. 
 GLUCOSE IN CREAM CRACKERS Is said to have a 
 very decided effect in improving the quality of sweet 
 crackers, especially iu giving a smooth appearance 
 and fine color. GLUCOSE IN SODA SYRUPS This is 
 one of the principal uses of it; the syrups are foamy 
 smooth and delicious when made with glucose. 
 GLUCOSE IN TOBACCO It is added to chewing to- 
 bacco instead of molasses, and in larger proportion, 
 as it increases the weight of the tobacco to an extent 
 very profitable to the makers. 
 
 GODARD GARNISH Slices of sweetbreads 
 and truffles, heads of mushrooms, quenelles and 
 quartered artichokes with brown sauce. ALOYAU 
 DE BCEUF A LA GODARD Sirloin of beef baked in 
 wine, tomato sauce, etc., served with godard gar- 
 nishing. 
 
 GODIVEAU (Fr.) Veal forcemeat; white veal 
 with cooked udder, bacon or suet pounded to a fine 
 paste; variously mixed with eggs, cream, bread, 
 etc., to make forcemeat balls, quenelles, meat-pie 
 linings and garnishes. 
 
 GONDINGO Florida-Spanish name of a thick 
 soup made of liver and giblets, onions, green pep- 
 pers, and rice.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 331 
 
 GOO 
 
 GOOBER OR GUBER PEA Southern popular 
 n.me for the pea -nut or ground nut. 
 
 GORGONZOLA One of the present favorite 
 dinner cheeses, said to have largely displaced En- 
 glish Stilton. It is an Italian cheese; can be found 
 at most of the fancy groceries or wine and oil im- 
 porting houses. To KEEP GORGONZOLA CHEESE 
 Cover it thoroughly with well-buttered white paper, 
 so as effectually to exclude the air; then wrap it in 
 brown paper. It should be looked at from time to 
 time, and fresh buttered paper put on. It should be 
 kept in a cool dry place. 
 
 GOOSE "A dinner was given one day not long 
 ago to William M. Evarts, the American lawyer, 
 who is a great epicure. One of the courses, roast 
 stuffed goose, seemed especially to please the palate 
 of the learned gentleman, and he lent himself thereto 
 with much vigor. After dinner came speeches, and 
 in the course of one of them a gentleman asked this 
 conundrum: 'What great change has taken place 
 during this dinner?' It was given up. He had to 
 answer his own conundrum 'When we began, we 
 had a goose stuffed with sage; now we have fin- 
 ished, we have a sage stuffed with goose.' " GOOSE 
 WITH SAGE AND ONIONS "Sage and onions are the 
 traditional concomitants of the seasoning. It is that 
 which Queen Elizabeth favored when she made a 
 goose at Michaelmas, the fashionable dish of her 
 age, and a national dish for many ages to come. It 
 was sage and onions Old Dr. Parr of ' Life Pill ' 
 fame delighted to revel in. It was the savory smell 
 that made him squeeze his friend's hand (when he 
 descended to the vicar's modest parlor after chang- 
 ing his rain-besoakedclothingandawaitingdinner), 
 as he exclaimed : ' How kind otyou, my dear friend, 
 when you know I'm tho fond of roath goothe,' and 
 it was only the poor doctor's horse-hair wig and 
 some onion peelings behind the fire. The dinner 
 was shoulder of mutton and onion sauce." GREEN 
 GOOSE "A plump little green -goose is considered 
 by epicures to be the daintiest of morsels; but the 
 young stubble or autumn goose of 5 or 6 months old 
 is most appreciated by the general public and the 
 caterer. Its flavor is more developed, there is more 
 of it to carve at, it is not so strong as its elder breth- 
 .ren either in flavor or sinew." Green-goose is in 
 season from April till July, or until it is 3 months 
 old. In preparing it for roasting, it is generally 
 dipped in boiling water, which has the effect of 
 opening the pores of the skin, and permitting the re- 
 moval of the feathers without breaking it. The bird 
 is then drawn and prepared for roasting. THE 
 STUBBLE- GOOSE Is properly 5 to 7 months old. It 
 is picked in the usual way that all poultry are re- 
 lieved of their feathers. The head is removed, leav- 
 ing the neck attached to it, and so cut that about 2 
 inches of the skin that covers the neck is left on the 
 body. The bird is emptied in the usual way, and the 
 feet cut off. It is then wiped out. Green-geese 
 should not be stuffed. Stubble-geese may be, espec- 
 
 GOO 
 
 ially when they are served as " Michaelmas-geese." 
 FIVE GEESE "Madame Guiccioli said of Bvron, 
 that he insisted upon keeping up old customs in 
 small things, such as having hot cross buns on 
 Good Friday and roast goose on Michaelmas Day. 
 This last fancy led to a grotesque result. After 
 buying a goose and fearing it might be too lean, he 
 fed it every day for a month previously, so that the 
 poet and the bird became so mutually attached that 
 when September 29 arrived he could not kill it, but 
 bought another, and had the pet goose swung in a 
 cage under his carriage when he traveled, so that 
 after four years he was moving about with four 
 geese. GOOSE AND SWAN It is a curious illustra- 
 tion of the de gustibus non est disputandum, that 
 the ancients considered the swan as a high delicacy 
 and abstained from the flesh of the goose as im- 
 pure and indigestible. TOULOUSE SALE o'OiE In 
 the Toulouse district, famous for its geese, those 
 birds are never roasted or baked, being for the most 
 part treated as follows: They are cut into pieces 
 and put on a good fire in a copper vessel wRh a 
 proper addition of salt. When cooked they are laid 
 in pots and covered with fat. This is called sale 
 d'oie, or salted goose, and is found in every house 
 in the district. GOOSE DINNER In a dinner made 
 up principally of the bird, which is or was in the 
 days of James and Horace Smith "uncommon 
 common on a common": "Dish No. 2, if not ex- 
 actly a mystery, was at least a gastronomic revel- 
 ation to those who had never tasted a goose stuffed 
 with truffles and olives two days before cooking, 
 then roasted and served with rich brown gravy and 
 potato straws. The third dish was simply a boiled 
 goose served with the accompaniments of pickled 
 pork, celery sauce and vegetables. The fourth dish 
 brought to light a roast goose stuffed with chest- 
 nuts and apples (in the German fashion), and eaten 
 with brown gravy and saut6 potatoes. The fifth 
 and last dish was also a roast goose, with a savory 
 lining of veal stuffing served with rich gravy, peas 
 a la Francaise, and mashed potatoes. By the time 
 justice had been done to this repast, the cry went 
 round, ' not too much goose, but just goose 
 enough.' " ROAST GOOSE Sage and onion stuff- 
 ing is the general accompaniment of roast goose. 
 If a strong flavor of onion is liked, the onions should 
 be chopped raw; if this is not the case, they should 
 be boiled in one, two or three waters, and mixed 
 with' a large or small quantity of bread-crumbs. 
 Truss the goose firmly, tie the openings securely, 
 place it in a deep pan with water enough to prevent 
 burning, and a little drippings, cover with a but- 
 tered paper; baste continuously until done. A goose 
 is both unwholesome and unpalatable if insuffic- 
 iently cooked. When done, take it up, remove the 
 skewers and fastenings, pour gravy round it and 
 send apple sauce to table with it. The time required 
 to cook a medium-sized goose is from one honr to 
 one hour and a half. BRAISED GOOSE A L'ALSA- 
 CIENNE Stuffed with pork sausage meat extra high
 
 332 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 GOO 
 
 seasoned and mixed with bread-crumbs; braised in 
 covered vessel with white wine and broth, and 
 aromatics; served with broiled sausages, boiled 
 chestnuts in bouillon, and balls of potatoes fried, 
 and gravy made of the braise liquor. GOOSE LIVER 
 Goose liver or foie gras is extensively used in 
 sandwiches. Cut it into thin slices, place them be- 
 tween slices of buttered bread, add a little French 
 mustard, a drop or two of lemon juice, and serve. 
 ROAST GOOSE A LA MOUNT VERNON Young goose 
 stuffed with mashed potatoes, which contain a 
 slight seasoning of lightly fried onions. Apples in 
 halves, pared, baked in goose-grease and little 
 sugar, served with the roasted goose. GOOSE A 
 L'ARLESIENNE Goose stuffed with forcemeat made 
 of onions, chestnuts, bread, parsley and seasonings. 
 Braised in stock with aromatics for 2 hours; served 
 with tomato sauce made of the braise liquor and 
 drained tomatoes. GOOSE PIE Is made like game 
 pie or patd, to cut cold, or cut up; half-fried, then 
 stewed and covered \\ ith paste and baked. GEESE 
 IN EGYPT The Egyptians served geese at their 
 meals every day; it was, with veal, the favorite 
 dish of their monarchs, and they did not forget to 
 offer some to King Agesilaus when he was travel- 
 ing through the country. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY A fruit of but little conse- 
 quence in the United States; most congenial to cool 
 and moist climates; very prominent among English 
 fruits. GOOSEBERRY CHAMPAGNE A good trade 
 is being done in the district of Hedemarken, in Nor- 
 way, in gooseberry champagne. It is a well-known 
 fact that more champagne is drunk every year in 
 America alone than is produced in the province 
 from which the wine takes its name. Of course, a 
 large quantity is genuine champagne, but a still 
 larger quantity is made up from cider, gooseberry 
 and rhubarb juice. This gooseberry champagne 
 is remarkably good, and is fast gaining favor in 
 Sweden and the United States; but beer is much 
 preferred by the Norwegians. Made by mashing 
 40 Ibs. of ripe berries in a tub with 4 gallons water, 
 lukewarm; left to steep a day, pulped through a 
 seive; 30 Ibs. sugar added and water to make up 11 
 gals. Add 3 oz. crude tartar, let ferment itself in 
 warm place 2 days, drawn off into 10 gal. keg and 
 stoppered when fermentation ceases, or in loor 12 
 days; is bottled 6 months afterwards. GOOSEBERRY 
 PICKLE A very favorite pickle in some parts of 
 France is gooseberries preserved in vinegar. . The 
 variety usually pickled is the small red one, pickled 
 before maturity. This pickle suits some people 
 amazingly, but as to me, my teeth are on edge with 
 no likelihood of getting off, by merely writing these 
 lines. GOOSEBERRY SOUFFLE Gooseberry pulp, 
 well sweetened in the stewing, placed in a glass 
 dish, yolk custard poured over, whipped whites on 
 top; cold. GOOSEBERRY FOOL English institution; 
 stewed green gooseberries with sugar and milk or 
 cream, or milk mixed in and whipped cream on top. 
 GOOSEBERRY SAUCE Same way as apple sauce, 
 
 GRA 
 
 eaten with roast goose and pork. TARTS DE GRO- 
 SEILLES VERTES Green gooseberry open pies. 
 POUDING AUX GROSEILLES A gooseberry crearh 
 pie, made of puree of gooseberries, bread-crumbs, 
 butter, eggs and sugar. GOOSEBERRY MARASCHINO 
 An imitation, like gooseberry champagne; made 
 of 25 Ibs. of best red ripe gooseberries and 5 Ibs. 
 wild cherries and cherry leaves, all bruised and 
 steeped in i gal. gin for two weeks. Filtered 
 through a jelly bag, 3 pts. clear white sugar-syrup 
 added; bottled. 
 
 GOUJOX (Fr.) Gudgeon; a small river fish. 
 GOURMET AND GOURMAND "There are 
 two broad varieties in French lovers of eating the 
 gourmets and the gourmands. The difference be- 
 tween them is so great that they may be considered 
 as complete opposites. The gourmand is a mere 
 glutton, who eats as much as he can, devouring one 
 dish after another. The gourmand \s the man who 
 omits not one of the dishes at a table-d 1 hole, and 
 then complains that he cannot dine properly in 
 that hotel. The gourmet, on the contrary, is a pro- 
 duct of high civilization. He enjoys with discrim- 
 ination, and he is quite on the side of temperance; 
 he even values the commonest things, if they are 
 excellent of their own kind. A French gourmet 
 once said to me, ' I am excessively fond of oysters; 
 but I never exceed one dozen, being convinced that 
 after the first dozen the palate has become incapable 
 of fully appreciating the flavor.' A real gourmet 
 preserves his palate in the healthiest and most nat- 
 ural condition; he prefers the simplest meal, such 
 as fried mutton chop, if it is really well cooked, to 
 an elaborate banquet where the cookery is less than 
 excellent. 
 
 " But a plain leg of mutton, my Lucy, 
 I Pr'ythee get ready at three : 
 Have it smoking, and tender, and juicy, 
 And what better meat can there be?" ' 
 
 I knew a Parisian who was a gourmet in Thacke 
 ray's manner, and his way of living was to order 
 one dish of meat, one of vegetables, and a little des- 
 sert, at an excellent and expensive restaurant a la 
 carte. He did not desire the more abundant feeding 
 at the restaurantes a prixfixe and the tables-d' hole. 
 He drank very moderately also; in a word, he lived 
 as a gentleman ought to live, without excess, yet 
 with perfect appreciation." 
 
 GOUT (Fr.) Taste; flavor. GOUTEZ LA ! Taste 
 it! HAUT-GOUT High-flavor. 
 
 GRAHAM Name of a Boston physician who 
 zealously advocated the use of unbolted wheat-meal 
 for bread instead of fine flour, hence the name of 
 Graham flour, bread, farina, etc., all made of whole 
 meal. 
 
 GRANITO (It.) Iced punch of various sorts. 
 (See Ices.) 
 
 GRAPES Among the best of fruits to serve for 
 breakfast and always welcome at dinner. The Con- 
 cord grape is the staple variety available in this
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 333 
 
 country, and taking it altogether it is the best, for 
 while there are others more delicate in flavor and 
 more attractive in color, there are none so evenly 
 ripe, so juicy, so sweet, so good to last through 
 several months, so reliable and unfailing. MUSCA- 
 DINE A Southern native grape of high musky fla- 
 vor. ScfPPERNONG-A large, coarse Southern native 
 grape, good for wine; comes to market without 
 stems, like baskets of plums; is dull -yellow or olive- 
 colored. MALAGA GRAPES Imported in kegs, pack- 
 ed in sawdust; cost about twice as much as nacive 
 grapes; firm, green, sweet; the kind to buy for par- 
 ty suppers and for dessert in winter and spring. 
 GRAPE!CE CREAM White California grapes, Mus- 
 cats, Tokays, are suitable to mix in ice cream 
 whole, uncooked, after the frezing ;s nearly com- 
 pleted. GRAPE WATER ICE Any kind of grapes 
 pressed and the juice strained, sweetened, frozen. 
 GRAPE JELLY Stewed grapes, the juice strained off 
 and boiled down thick with sugar. GRAPE TABLE 
 JEELY White grape juice strained, sweetened, 
 wine added, and ij oz. gelatine in each quart, 
 boiled; cooled in moulds with layers of raw grapes. 
 GRAPE PIES, tarts, jams, marmalade, preserves, 
 etc., same as other fruit. PICKLED GRAPES Ripe 
 grapes pickled in vinegar, though their merits are 
 well known in Southern Russia, have never re- 
 ceived due recognition in Kngland. But these are 
 delicacies rather than food. GRAPES FOR DESSERT 
 At lunches, buffets, and five-o'clocks in France, 
 strawberries, and indeed most berries, are eaten 
 with champagne. Muscatel grapes powdered with 
 crushed ices and anointed with sparkling wine are a 
 favorite dessert-dish. Grapes are invariably eaten 
 with wine in France, the bunch being dipped into 
 the wine. Red grapes are eaten with red wine, and 
 white grapes with white wine. 
 
 GRAPES TO KEEP Packing in dry sawdust, 
 or hanging by single bunches on lines in a cool dry 
 basement-room are the most effective ways. GRAPE 
 WINE Home-made grape wine is made in locali- 
 ties where grapes abound by the same method as 
 cider; it ferments itself, and when that is nearly 
 over it is drawn off into a sulpher-smoked barrel, a 
 gallon or two of native spirit added, such as apple 
 or peach brandy or corn whiskey, and the barrel is 
 tightly closed and stored away. 
 
 GRAPE FRUIT Name of a large sort of orange, 
 acid but with a grape-like flavor, common in Flori- 
 da and the West Indies and plentiful in Southern 
 markets; the shaddock. 
 
 GRAVY SOUP English name for rich beef soup. 
 
 GRAVY BEEF Rough cuts only fit for stewing. 
 
 GRAYLIXG A fresh water fish found in the 
 great lakes and rivers, also as mentioned by Izaak 
 Walton, in English rivers, silver scaled, weight 
 from i to 5 pounds. 
 
 GREEK COOKERY LiQUEurts-It is usual in 
 Greece to drink liqueurs before dinner. The Greeks 
 
 GRE 
 
 drink liqueurs and not spirits straight. Raki is the 
 liqueur preferred, and that made in Cluos is consid- 
 ered the best. Absinthe, chartreuse, maraschino and 
 the other liqueurs almost universally employed are 
 equally acceptable and proper at a Greek dinner. 
 SOUP All Greek Dinners begin wtih soup and not 
 with hors d'tzu-vres, which come afterwards. 
 MUTTON SOUP A LA GREQUE A boned shoulder of 
 mutton cooked in mutton broth, taken up and cut in 
 dice; carrots, turnips and onions also cut in squares 
 and cooked in broth, and green peas added to them; 
 puree of split-peas made separately; then all mixed 
 together, mutton, vegetables and puree of peas to 
 make the soup. VERMICELLI SOUP A LA GREQUE- 
 A cream-colored soup with vermicelli; made of con- 
 comme slightly thickened with flour and butter roux; 
 after boiling poured to 2 yolks to each quart, and % 
 cup cream; hot enough to thicken, but not boil; ver- 
 micelli cooked separately and added to the soup. 
 POTAGE MARATHON Broth with rice and fresh to- 
 matoes, i. e., rice and tomato soup made with mut- 
 ton stock; parsley to finish. POTAGE SALAMIS 
 Yellow, smooth, egg-and-acid soup made of con- 
 somme' with 2 yolks and juice of I lemon to each qt. ; 
 the juice beaten into the yolks, and boiling con- 
 somme poured to them; made hot enough to thicken 
 like cream, but must not boil; cayenne and parsley. 
 THE SOUP-MEAT WITH GREENS At all Greek din- 
 ners the mutton, beef, or poultry, out of which the 
 soup has been prepared, is always served after the 
 soup. This is a national habit and not a matter of 
 economy; this meat is usually eaten with greens, 
 dandelion leaves or other mild herbs. GREEK HORS 
 D'CEuvRES It is with the boiled meat that the hors 
 d'&u-vres are served in Greece, never before. OL- 
 IVES Ripe black olives in oil, green olives in great 
 variety, and pickled peppers. CAVIARO-SALATA 
 Made of % caviare, % almonds rolled to powder, % 
 bread-crumbs; olive oil to moisten, lemon juice, 
 cayenne; spread on small, thick slices of bread. 
 LAKERDA Smoked and salted fish; considered a 
 great delicacy. ARZOTARACHO The roe of the gray 
 mullet pressed and dried. TSIRAS A salad of an- 
 chovies, olives and parsley. It is usual in Greece to 
 leave the Iiors d'oeuvres on the table during the 
 whole meal until dessert is served. GREEK FISH 
 Amongst the abundance of the Mediterannean fish 
 the red mullet is perhaps the favorite. It is cooked 
 in oil with garlic, parsley and cayenne, or baked in 
 tomato sauce with lemon juice. Gray mullet, brill 
 and sea-bream are also much eaten. Another 
 favorite way of cooking fish is to fry them in 
 oil, adding butter and vinegar, rosemary, garlic, 
 and capers to the oil they are fried in, allow- 
 ing them to get cold in the dressing; they are 
 eaten either cold or hot GREEK VEGETABLES 
 Stuffed artichokes, stuffed tomatoes, stuffed cucum- 
 bers, egg plant and vegetable marrows. FILLET OF 
 BEEF A L'ATHENIENNE In the Athens style it is 
 larded, roasted or baked, surrounded with fried 
 egg-plant in thick slices, a brown sauce with Ma-
 
 334 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 GRE 
 
 deira poured over the fillet. BEEFSTEAK A LA 
 GREQUE Beefsteaks lightly fried with onions, a. 
 gill of Marsala wine, % pt. espagnole, same of 
 stewed tomatoes added, simmered an hour; served 
 with fried egg plant. GREEK CHICKEN Cut up 
 and cooked in tomato sauce and white wine, simi- 
 lar to beefsteak a la Greque. GREEK ROAST LAMB 
 The favorite roast is very young lamb. AGNEAU 
 KLEFTIKO A whole lamb roasted before an open 
 wood fire, adding wild thyme and lemon juice to 
 the basting; served with salads and vegetables. 
 This dish is always eaten at Easter in Greece. 
 POMMES KERTEDES Potato croquettes flavored 
 with grated cheese. STL>FED CUCUMBERS A LA 
 GREQUE Pieces 2 inches long parboiled, center 
 hollowed out, set on end, filled with raw mutton 
 forcemeat, simmered in the oven; served with to- 
 mato sauce. GREEK PILAF Rice boiled in broth 
 with tomatoes and butter. The rice should be nei- 
 ther dry nor floating in liquid a happy medium be- 
 tween the two. Pilaf is very good with larks, 
 pieces of chicken or any kind of meat; it can also be 
 eaten alone. "A few years ago some Greek students 
 in Paris, longing for the flesh-pots of Hellas, got a 
 Greek cook to come over to cook for them. He 
 hired a small shop and began on the lowest possible 
 scale. He has now one of the most successful res- 
 taurants in the Latin quarter and does a splendid 
 trade, of which anyone may convince himself by 
 looking into the Restaurant Orientale in the Rue 
 des Ecoles. He is specially noted for his pilaf." 
 GREEK BUTTERED RICE A cupful of rice, raw, is 
 fried in butter; a pint of tomato soup, or broth and 
 tomatoes, is poured to the rice and all boiled about 
 20 minutes. It should not be very liquid, but d^- 
 enough to heap up in a dish. Have butter stirred 
 in before serving. It is but a slight variation of 
 pilaf ; is served with broiled chichen livers, roasted 
 larks, or vegetables only, such as cauliflower 
 branches augraliii. GREEK RICE PUDDING Cin- 
 namon-flavored boiled rice custard, served with 
 ground cinnamon separately. Made of 4 oz. rice, 2 
 qts. milk, S yolks, 2 oz. corn starch, 8 oz. sugar, i 
 oz. cinnamon. Rice boiled in milk with cinnamon, 
 custard made separately, stirred together; served 
 cold. GREEK PUDDING Thick slices of bread 
 soaked in cold milk, then strained and fried in oil 
 or clear butter till browned outside only. Saturated 
 with honey-and-sugar syrup, flavored with cinna- 
 mon; served warm. Rice and milk with sugar and 
 cinnamon are made up in various forms of Greek 
 sweet dishes. GREEK BALAKLAVA CAKE Layers 
 of pastry spread with chopped almonds in honey. 
 CONRABIES Thin wafers made of flour, sugar, and 
 butter; baked until crisp. (S- e Fairy Gingerbread, 
 the ginger omit:ed or substituted?) RHCELO SAC- 
 CHAREE See Crt stallized Roue Leaves. SERBATI- 
 GLUKO Preserves scented with flowers. GREEK 
 DESSERT There are usua.ly piles of inanv-colored 
 grapes, oranges, sweet lemons, pomegranates, etc. 
 The pomegranates are usually cut in halves, and 
 
 GRI 
 
 eaten with powdered sugar and orange-flower water. 
 GREEK "WINES The white wines of Patros, Samos 
 and Kephalonia, and the red wines called reziiiato 
 because of the rosin which is added to the wines to 
 preserve them. "With dessert the Cyprus wine 
 known as Commanderia (thick and strong like thick 
 s\rup) is drunk. Sweet port would make a very 
 good substitute for Commanderia; Bordeaux, red or 
 white, makes a good substitute for Patros wine, and 
 various burgundies for rezinato. 
 
 GREENGAGE An excellent plum which re- 
 mains green when ripe. Cooked and used in all the 
 ways suitable for apricots; acceptable for contrast 
 of colors in compotes, jams, jellies and ices. 
 
 GREEN ANCHOVY BUTTER- For fish, chop- 
 ped parslev leaves, the juice squeezed through a 
 napkin by twisting, mixed with anchovies and but- 
 ter, pounded and put through a seive. Must be 
 lukewarm to mix, then made cold. 
 
 GREEN SAUCE Bignon's sauce rert. Used as 
 mint sauce with roast lamb and cold me ' t^ ; made of 
 equal quantities of capers, parsley, chives, gher- 
 kins, and tarragon. Mince the whole very fine, and 
 mix it all together. Then season with pepper and 
 salt and cavenne, and put it into a jar with tarragon 
 vinegar. When it is wanted to serve, take, as much 
 as is required; put it into a bowl with a sufficient 
 quantity of chervil, a little French mustard and the 
 necessary amount of salad-oil. 
 
 GREEN GOOSE Spring goose. (See Goo.-e.) 
 
 GREXADIXS Thin slices of veal and some 
 other meats larded. GRENADINS DE FILET DEBosup 
 A LA FINANCIERS Thin slices of tenderloin, lar- 
 ded, cooked in murepoix or seasoned stock, served 
 in the reduced sauce with Financier^ garnish. 
 GRENADINS DE VEAU AUX PETITES RACINES Thin 
 oval slices of veal larded with strips of fat pork, 
 braised in a pan with aromatics, glazed in their own 
 sauce, served with potatoes, carrots and turnips half 
 fried, then stewed in brown sauce. GRENADINS r>E 
 VEAU, SAUCE TOMATE Served with tomato sauce. 
 
 GRILL Gridiron; broiler; a grill; a broil. 
 
 GRILL-ROOM English public kitchen where 
 meats are broiled to order; sometimes on a silver 
 gridiron and in sight of the customer. 
 
 GRIMOD DE LA REYNIERE A name at- 
 tached to several modern French dishes, has 
 reference to a notable patron of culinary art, con- 
 temporary with De Cussy, CarSme, and Briilat- 
 Savarin: " Grimond de la Reyniere ca::ie of a 
 banking family, and no one had a bad word to say 
 against either his palate or his camel. An acci- 
 dent in early childhood deprived him of both hands, 
 which he replaced by niar.y ingenious contrivan- 
 ces; and he even became a dandy in his youth, 
 frequented the leaders of the Francais, and visited 
 Voltaire. He was muscularly strong, and had a 
 strong constitution; eventually developed, let us 
 say, a hump on his camel, /". e. became obese and
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 335 
 
 GRI 
 
 lived to be eighty, lie was a charming talker in 
 his best years, but latterly, wrote De Cussy, he 
 got to be commonplace and garrulous about every- 
 thing. The same Dr. Roques, exclaming quantum 
 mutattis, said in a sketch of Grimod's old age that 
 'he rang for his servants at nine in the morning, 
 shouting and scolding until he got his vermicelli 
 soup. Soon after he becaire tranquil, and began to 
 talk gaily; finalh- becoming silent, and going to 
 sleep again for some hours. At his waking the com- 
 plaints began over again ; he would fly into rages, 
 groan, weep, and wish he was dead. But, when 
 dinner-time came, he ate of every dish, all the time 
 declaring that he would have nothing, for his end 
 was nigh. At dessert his face began to show some 
 animation, his eyebrows lifted, and some light 
 showed from the eyes, deep sunk in their sockets. 
 ' How is De Cussy ? \\ ill he live long ?' he would 
 ask; 'they say he has a fatal ailment. They haven't 
 put him on diet yet, have they? The rains were 
 heavy; we'll have lots of mushrooms in the au- 
 tumn. The vines are splendid; you must come for 
 the vintage;' and so on, always about gluttony. 
 Then he would grow gradually silent in his great 
 armchair, and the eyes would close. At ten they 
 came for him he could no longer walk and put 
 him to bed.' And this was the youngster who, at 
 the age of twenty, was canght by his own father 
 sitting down, lone as the ace of spades, to seven 
 roast turkeys, merely for their "oysters," their sol- 
 I'y-laisse, as the French say." (Note. The "oys- 
 ters" are the tid-bits of meat on e^ch side of the 
 small of the back. But another one who tells the 
 anecdote says the seven turkeys were ordered mere- 
 ly for their " Pope's nose.") TURKEY A LA REY- 
 NIERE A plump, fat and tender turkey-hen is 
 trussed nicely and roasted about an hour and a quar- 
 ter; untrussed, placed on a dish, surrounded with 
 sausages and chestnuts and cress at each end; served 
 with a slightly thickened gravy into which the liver 
 of the turkey previously cooked and sliced fine, is 
 put at the last moment. ROAST WOODCOCK A LA 
 GRIMOD The birds skewered with their bills, the 
 trail chopped on toast, birds roasted before the fire 
 with the prepared toast beneath to receive the drip- 
 pings. Served on the toast with gravy and quartered 
 lemons. SALAD A LA GRIMOD Several vegetables 
 parboiled and chopped, arranged on toasted bread 
 in separate groups with chopped yolks and whites, 
 oil, vinegar, etc. 
 
 GRISSIXI BREAD "A Boston paper says that 
 the technical name fpr those long sticks of bread, 
 such as are served at the Parker House, which one 
 finds it so entertaining to nibble upon between 
 courses, is Grissini, the patronymic of the Turin 
 baker who invented them." A London paper says: 
 "Italian Grissini has deservedly come into high favor 
 for soups, etc., and the crisp finger-like article pro- 
 duced by Messrs. Grinnell has already created a 
 large demand, so much so thut it is now said to be 
 'the rage.' " "You may in many cases learn from 
 
 GRO 
 
 your hotel bills the chief products of places in the 
 way of food; for, of course, I had sausages at Bo- 
 logna, 'grissini' at Turin, grapes at Tyrol, and so on; 
 while as for wine you may instruct yourself r.s to the 
 native soil of many dozen varieties." Mr. T. J. 
 Harrison, a baker in business at one period, made a 
 specialty of grissini in Detroit. He took in a desti- 
 tute Italian baker who in turn showed his employer 
 what he could do, and thus the grissini trade was 
 started to their mutual profit, the Italian residents 
 being pretty constant buyers from the first. The 
 Italian baker would call it Garibaldi Grissini in the 
 advertisements when he had his way; but it seemed 
 there were two political parties among the Italians, 
 and one-half of them would not buy Garibaldi bread; 
 consequently the bread took on a strictly neutral 
 character after that was discovered, and became 
 Italian grissini, neither more nor less. It is made of 
 the ordinary bread-dough with some butter worked 
 into it; then the dough is kneaded under a lever- 
 break as if for crackers. Made into rolls about two 
 fingers thick, allowed to rise, brushed over with 
 water, divided and taken up one by one by the ends 
 and pulled out to the thinness of a little finger and 
 about 12 inches long; then rolled, wet as they are, in 
 corn meal, placed on a wet peel and slid off when 
 the peel is full on to the oven bottom. A revolving 
 oven is the best for them as they need but a few 
 minutes to bake. Sold at 6oc. per Ib. Being almost 
 hollow, nearly all crust, it takes a stack of them to 
 weigh a pound. 
 
 GRISKIX OF PORK The loin; the roasting 
 piece between the last rib and the ham -joint; same 
 as the porter-house cut of beef. 
 
 GROSSE PIECE SUR SOCI-E. 
 
 Round of spiced beef on carved stand of mutton fat. 
 
 GROG <- A drink composed of rum and something 
 else was called ' grog.' It originally meant rum di- 
 luted with water, but was more often with a cordial 
 or something of that nature. The name of 'grog'
 
 336 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 GRO 
 
 was derived in a singular way. It is said that once 
 Admiral Vernon, in the British navy, and who was 
 noted for his generous nature, was wont to deal out 
 an allowance of this drink to his sailors. He wore 
 what was called a 'grogan' cloak in severe weather, 
 and after a while the men jestingly designated him 
 as 'old grog,' hence the name of the mixture." 
 GRONDIN (Fr.) Gurnet or gurnard; a fish: 
 
 GROSSES PIECES (Fr.) Large ornamented 
 pieces; built up dishes; pyramids; designs in cooked 
 meats; ornamental sugar work on stands. 
 
 GROSEILLES (Fr.) Garden currants; cassis 
 black currants (garden). Zante currants are raisins 
 de corinthe. GROSEILLES VERTES Gooseberries. 
 
 GROUND RICE Used like farina, starch, tapi- 
 oca and sago in all sorts of puddings and custards. 
 
 GROUND-NUT The peanut. 
 
 GROUPER A fish of the Florida and Gulf coast. 
 There are three varieties, known as red, black and 
 white grouper; the shape is like a carp, the scales 
 and color more like black bass ; size from 5 to 1 5 Ibs. ; 
 flesh second quality, being rather hard and coarse 
 in comparison with the red-snapper, which is 
 abundant in the same localities. Is cooked in the 
 same wavs as snapper, and baked in tomato sauce, 
 and the southern courtbouillon. 
 
 GROUSE Prairie chickens; spruce grouse, 
 ruffed grouse, pin-tail grouse, moor-fowl, and other 
 kinds; larger than a partridge. GROL'SE A LA ROB 
 ROY Alexis Soyer, the famous Reform Club chef, 
 bestowed much attention on the cooking of grouse. 
 One of his modes was to wrap the bird to be roasted 
 in slices of fat bacon and sprigs of heather well 
 steeped in whisky. This is "grouse a la Rob Roy." 
 GROUSE A LA RUSSE After roasting the birds, cut 
 them up into joints, arrange in a pyramid on a dish, 
 and cover over with meat glaze; hand rich gravy in 
 a sauce-boat. GROUSE A L'ECOSSAISE Scotch 
 style; the grouse roasted, then cut up; sauce made 
 in the pan with the scraps, backs of grouse, etc., 
 orange juice added; grouse piled up on toasted 
 bread, sauce over all, orange slices around. GROUSE 
 A LA FINANCIERS Grouse stuffed with a force- 
 meat of the livers pounded with onion, mushrooms, 
 Wead-crumbs, butter, salt, pepper; roasted; served 
 with brown sauce and mushrooms. MARINADED 
 GROUSE The grouse steeped in a pickle of vinegar, 
 chopped onion, bay leaves, juniper berries, pepper 
 corns, for 3 days. Stuffed with turkey stuffing, 
 breasts larded, roasted with constant butter basting. 
 Served with sliced lemons. GROUSE PUDDING 
 Birds cut up, a deep pudding bowl lined with short- 
 paste, thin beefsteak at bottom, then chopped mush- 
 rooms, then pieces of grouse, peppered, salted and 
 floured, so on till bowl is full; cupful of gravy 
 added, paste cover, edges wetted and secured, tied 
 down in cloth, boiled 3 or 4 hours. Served in bowl 
 with folded napkin arranged around it, or served 
 from sideboard. SOUFFLE OK GROUSE Cold roast 
 grouse meat pounded to a paste with i oz. butter, 2 
 
 GUI 
 
 oz. cooked rice, aromatic salt, % pt. meat glaze; 
 rubbed through a seive, 4 yolks added, lastly 4 
 whites whipped firm; baked in a mould. It rises 
 light in the oven. Served in the mould soon as done, 
 with gravy aside. SALMI OF MOOR FOWL Cooked 
 birds cut up into a stewpan with olive oil, lemon 
 rind and juice, piece of orange peel, shallot, pepper, 
 salt, cayenne, tossed up till hot through, served hot. 
 GROUSE SOUP Grouse boiled in meat stock, flesh 
 picked off and pounded through seive; soup thick- 
 ened with butter and flour, strained, 2 yolks added 
 and the puree of grouse. Duchess crusts. GROUSE 
 A LA AILSA Grouse cut up, the joints dipped in 
 thick essence of game sauce, then in bread-crumbs, 
 then in egg and crumbs; browned in the oven in 
 butter. SALMIS DE GROUSE AUXTRUFFES- -Roasted, 
 cut up, heated in essence o game sauce with truff- 
 les, garnished with croutons. GROUSE A LA COMMO- 
 DORE The joints coated with a forcemeat of grouse 
 and dressed in a pyramid with rich game sauce. 
 FILETS DE GROUSE A LA CHANCELIERE Breasts 
 of grouse dressed in a crown, with small quenelles 
 of veal in the center, and game sauce. SALADE AUX 
 GROUSES The joints masked with a salmis sauce 
 and aspic (chaudfroid sauce). Dressed on a salad 
 with mayonnaise sauce, garnish w ith eggs, beets, 
 etc. BROILED GROUSE ox TOAST Split down the 
 back, flattened with the cleaver, trimmed a little, 
 salted and peppered, broiled rare ; served on dry toast 
 with maitre d'hotel butter, cress and lemons. 
 GROUSE AU FUMET Roasted grouse cut up from 
 the bones; the bones broken and stewed in espa- 
 gnole, with aromatics and sherry to make the sauce 
 which is pressed through a napkin by twisting. 
 Served on slices of fried bread with sauce over. 
 GROUSE AU CHASSEUR Grouse roasted, cut up, 
 served with chasseur sauce made of i pt. espagnole, 
 J^ pt. tomato sauce, shallots half fried in butter, 
 few mushrooms, parsley, lemon juice. GROUSE 
 WITH PRUNE SAUCE Roasted grouse served with 
 sauce made by stewing prunes in red wine and add- 
 ing them to espagnole. {See game, prairie hens.) 
 
 GRUYE.RE One of the French cheeses often 
 named in cooking directions; next best to Parmesan 
 for cooking purposes, and eaten at table. Not 
 choice, only foreign. 
 
 GUANA In Central America and the West In- 
 dies the great tree-lizards called guanas form a 
 really important part of the food of the poorer people. 
 They prepare it by cleaning and scraping it, then 
 roasting it in a hole in the ground. " A more civil- 
 ized fashion is a fricassee, with tomatoes and pep- 
 pers a la Creole. The similarity of the white and 
 tender flesh to chicken is noted by everybody, and 
 there are few persons who do not find it highly 
 toothsome. 'We caught more in the same way,' 
 says an antiquated author, after an entertaining de- 
 scription of a guana-hunt, 'and kept one alive seven 
 or eight days; but it grieved me to the heart to find 
 that he thereby lost much delicious fat.' The old 
 writer was a monk, and spoke with feeling."
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 337 
 
 GUA 
 
 GUAVA A fruit of the West Indies and Florida; 
 the tree is a species of myrtle, grows to a height of 
 20 feet. The fruit (about the size and shape of a fig) 
 has an agreeable flavor, and is made into preserves 
 and jelly. GUAVA JELLY Possesses a peculiar fine 
 flavor and very little acidity; it is more of a sweet- 
 meat than a relish, yet is served both with meats 
 and cakes. 
 
 GUILLP2MOTS The Normandy peasants make 
 an excellent salmi from guillemots the despised 
 sea-crows of the Scotch which is equal to wood- 
 cock, and superior to hare in flavor. Served with 
 red wine, guillemot is a dish for a gourmet; but the 
 people find the birds very good without such addi- 
 tion. 
 
 GUINEA FOWL Is cooked as partridge, for 
 which it occasionally serves as a substitute; is often 
 sent to market in dressed lots mixed with chickens, 
 but being darker fleshed should not be cooked with 
 them; but is most excellent by its own name. It is 
 the best substitute for game when game is out of 
 season. It has two names in French. PINTADE 
 RoTi-Roast Guinea fowl; the breast and legs larded, 
 roasted under cover of buttered paper; served with 
 cress in the dish, and brown gravy separately. 
 Roast Guinea fowls are sometimes served with let- 
 tuce salad and apple fritters. PINTADE A LA BEAR- 
 NAISE Guinea fowl roasted and served with Bear- 
 naise sauce. GELINOTTE PIQUEE Larded Guinea 
 hen. GELINOTTE BARDEE Guinea hen wrapped in 
 slices of fat pork, and baked. 
 
 GUINEA PIG The cavy; a tame animal about 
 the size of the opossum, kept as a pet by some peo- 
 ple; good for food, and something like the opossum 
 in taste. "F. Z. S. writes: I do not wish it to be 
 supposed that I recommend the cavy as a cheap food, 
 but rather for its delicious flavor and recherche qual- 
 ity. It may, no doubt, be sometimes grown at small 
 expense, but I look upon it as being so valuable for 
 the table as to make it worthy both of trouble and 
 expense in its cultivation. Think of its value in the 
 game course when game is out of season ; of the value 
 of its tender flesh and gelatinous skin in the feeding 
 of invalids and convalescents, and of the vast num- 
 ber of ways in which a clever cook could utilize it. 
 Probably there are few recipes for made dishes, 
 either of rabbit or game, that would not be appli- 
 cable to cavy. I consider the smooth -haired white 
 cavy the best adapted for the table, on account of the 
 whiteness of its skin." 
 
 GULL There are many of the commoner kinds 
 of sea-gulls that taste delicious in a pie when prop- 
 erly cooked. It is only prejudice that keeps people 
 from eating them. 
 
 GUMBO FILE (Creole-Fr.) Dried gumbo. 
 
 GUMBO SOUP A specialty of the southern 
 states; Creole dish ; soup thickened and flavored with 
 okra or gumbo, either in its green state or dried and 
 powdered. CHICKEN GUMBO A LA CREOLE Pieces 
 of chicken fried in butter with chopped onion and 
 
 GUM 
 
 little ham; when fried light brown, some flour stirred 
 in, and broth by degrees; bunch of parsley, salt, 
 white pepper, sweet chili pepper; to each quart a 
 heaping tablespoonful of gumbo powder dredged in 
 careful ly to avoid lumps ; and taken from fire at once. 
 Served with boiled rice separately. OYSTER GUMBO- 
 Started by frying onion and salt pork in butter; flour 
 added, little white wine, broth, water, peppers, pars- 
 ley, thyme, oysters, and liquor; gumbo powder to 
 thicken; served with rice. CRAB GuMBO-Same gen- 
 eral method with crabs cut in pieces; soft-shell crabs 
 preferred; served with rice. SHRIMP GuMBO-Large 
 shrimps husked from their coats, fried with onions 
 and salt pork in butter; flour, broth, white wine, 
 water, parsley, green pepper, salt; gumbo powder to 
 thicken; not boiled after gumbo is in; served with 
 boiled rice. 
 
 GUM Four or five kinds of gum are used In con- 
 fectionery and syrups. GUM SYRUP The French- 
 man who asks for absinthe in your establishment 
 probably asks for gemme. This means that he 
 wants about half his lotion to consist of strop de 
 gomme. Now sirop de gomme, or gum-arabic 
 syrup, is not generally procurable and I want to tell 
 you how to make it for yourself. FRENCH WEIGHTS 
 AND MEASURES Wash 500 grammes (i Ib. i 3-5 oz.) 
 of white gum-arabic. Dissolve it in a covered jar 
 in a pint of cold water, stirring it frequently; then 
 strain it through a linen strainer. Dissolve 2 kilos 
 of sugar (4 Ib. 6% oz) in 2 litres of lukewarm water 
 (3 1 A pints); place the bowl containing the liquefied 
 sugar on the fire, skim carefully, and let it cook for 
 about three minutes; then add the liquid gum, and 
 let the mixture boil until about the consistency of 
 strong liquid gum. Cool and bottle. GUM ARABIC 
 Since the war in the Soudan gum arable has been 
 very scarce; and the Germans in America are turn- 
 ing their attention to provide a substitute. The 
 latest is the following: Twenty parts of powdered 
 sugar are boiled with seven parts of fresh milk, and 
 this is then mixed with fifty parts of a 36 per cent, 
 solution of silicate of sodium, the mixture being 
 then cooled at 122 Fahr., and poured into tin boxes, 
 where granular masses will gradully separate out, 
 which look very much like pieces of gum arable. 
 This artificial gum copiously and instantly reduces 
 Fehling's solution, so that if mixed with powdered 
 gum arable as an adulterant its presence could be 
 easily detected. GUM DROPS A confection made 
 of gum and sugar; also of glucose, dextrine and 
 sugar. COMMON GUM DROPS Made of 50 Ibs. su- 
 gar, 25 Ibs. glucose, 9 Ibs. starch, i oz. each cream 
 tartar and tartaric acid. Starch mixed with water 
 till like cream; sugar made into syrup of 33 degrees, 
 and when boiling, starch stirred into it; glucose 
 then added; boiled 3^ hours; acid added, and flavor. 
 Run into starch moulds, dried in a hot closet 2 days, 
 tossed in granulated sugar. ( See Fig Paste.) GUM 
 BENZOIN Gum from an East Indian tree; used, dis- 
 solved in alcohol, to varnish chocolate candies of all 
 sorts to make them glossy. GUM TRAGACANTH
 
 338 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 GUM 
 
 A gum which dissolves slowly in water and becomes 
 like flour paste; is used mixed with sugar to make 
 white ornaments for bride's cakes. GUM DRAGON- 
 Another name for tragacanth. GUM PASTE For 
 cake -ornaments; made by putting 402. white gum 
 tragacanth in a bowl with i pt. warm water to soak 
 for 24 hours, or until it is all dissolved; then forced 
 through a towel by twisting. The gum is then 
 rubbed with the hand on a marble slab for 10 min- 
 utes; fine powdered sugar added by degrees while 
 the rubbing with the hand is continued until 3 Ibs. 
 sugar has been worked in and the paste is white and 
 tough; to be kept in a jar till needed for use. If for 
 making flowers, about 2 Ibs. fine starch and % Ib. 
 sugar are worked into i y> Ib. of the stock mixture in 
 the jar. If for pressing into moulds for leaf orna- 
 ments, 2 Ibs. sugar and i Ib. starch are worked into 
 2 Ibs. of the jar stock; one drop of blue coloring to 
 be mixed in. GUM-PASTE FLOWERS Are made 
 with the fingers and a set of small bone tools about 
 the size of A piece of pencil adapted to form cups and 
 hollows in the paste and to roll it to leaf-like thin- 
 ness in the palm of the hand; a pair of scissors is 
 used to cut the edges, and a toothpick stuck in a 
 board to stick the flowers on to dry. Stamens are 
 procured from the artificial millinery flower makers, 
 and a little painting is done on the leaves. Roses 
 are made by a leaf at a time rolled and shaped in 
 starch in the palm of the hand and 20 or 30 of them 
 fastened on a core or bud already dry on its stick. 
 GUM-PASTE LEAVES These and various patterns 
 and designs are made by piping the design in cake- 
 icing on oiled glass, bordering it with putty and 
 making a mould from it by pouring on melted brim- 
 stone; this takes in the icing pattern, which can be 
 dissolved out in water. Into this the gum paste is 
 afterwards pressed, thus getting the icing pattern 
 from the brimstone mould reproduced in gum paste. 
 A piece of lace bobinet is stuck upon the back of the 
 pattern before it is lifted. 
 
 GUM FOR CHEWIXG-The best is plain spruce 
 gum as it exudes from the trees in Maine and Can- 
 ada. Additions of sugar and flavoring are made; 
 and adulterations with parrafine are practiced by 
 different manufacturers, but there is no other stand- 
 ard but the plain gum conveniently wrapped for 
 handling. 
 
 GURNET OR GURXARD A sea-fish common 
 in France and England. GRONDIN FARCI AU FOUR- 
 Gurnet stuffed and baked. FILETS DE GRONDIXS 
 EX MATELOTE Sides of gurnet breaded and fried; 
 served with matelote sauce. 
 
 H. 
 
 HACHIS (Fr.) Hash. HACHIS DE VENAISON 
 Hashed venison. 
 
 HADDOCK Well-known sea fish, nearly re- 
 sembling the cod; of smaller size, however, and 
 marked with black thumb spots on the shoulders, 
 whence the legend that this is the fish which the 
 
 HAL 
 
 apostle took up and found the penny in its mouth to 
 pay the tribute to Casar with; the mark of his fin- 
 gers remains. HADDOCK IN OLD ROME Pliny 
 says: "The haddock, like the sturgeon, was sur- 
 rounded with the ridiculous honors of an almost 
 divine pomp. It was served interwoven with gar- 
 lands, and trumpeters accompanied the slaves who, 
 with uncovered heads and foreheads crowned with 
 flowers, brought to the guests this dish, the merit 
 of which was, perhaps, exaggerated by capricious 
 fancies." SCOTCH RIZZER'D HADDIE A fresh 
 haddock cooked as follows: Rub the fish well in- 
 side and out with salt, hang it up by the head in the 
 open air for twenty-four hours, skin it, dust it with 
 flour, pepper and salt, and broil over a clear fire. 
 FILLETS OF HADDOCK Fresh haddock cut into 
 strips, seasoned, rolled in flour, then in egg-and- 
 cracker dust, fried, served with sauce and cut 
 lemons. SMOKED HADDOCK See Finnan haddies. 
 HADDOCK SOUFFLE Boiled salt haddock (like salt 
 cod) pounded in a mortar, rubbed through a seive; 
 to % Ib. of the rish pure'e 3 yolks are added, then the 
 whites whipped to froth; the mixture is then baked 
 in cases or cups; sent to table soon as done, while 
 soft and light SMOKED HADDOCK SANDWICH 
 Boiled smoked haddock picked from the bones and 
 run through a sausage machine, mixed with y^ as 
 much hot butter, cayenne, salt, anchovy essence 
 added, spread on sandwiches. MERLUCHE GRILLES 
 Broiled haddock. MERLUCHE FARCIE Haddock 
 stuffed and baked, served with brown sauce. MER- 
 LUCHE SAUCE AUX CEuFS Haddock boiled, with 
 egg sauce. MERLUCHE A LA HOLLANDAISE 
 Boiled haddock with Hollandaise sauce. 
 
 HAGGIS See Scottish cookery. 
 
 HAKE Hake is an English "west-country" 
 fish, often sold under the name of white salmon. 
 It is a cheap fish and not very highly esteemed; 
 cooked in same ways as halibut. 
 
 HALIBUT Flat fish of the turbot family; 
 reaches a very large size, sometimes weighing as 
 much as ico Ibs. It is commonly cut into steaks. 
 Halibut is sometimes offered for turbot, which is a 
 dearer fish, but it may be distinguished by looking 
 at the spots on the back, the halibut being without 
 spots. BOILED HALIBUT A thick cut boiled in 
 water containing salt and vinegar, simmered 40 
 minutes; drained, served on a folded napkin, gar- 
 nished with parsley; cream sauce in a bowl. HALI- 
 BUT A LA CORDON BLEU Halibut steaks like 
 larded grenadines of veal, but larded in colors with 
 strips of anchovy, green peppers, lemon rind, and 
 eel, simmered in wine stock, glazed with the re- 
 duced liquor; sauce and garnishings. SCALLOPED 
 HALIBUT AU PARMESAN Thin halibut steaks 
 simmered in butter with onion, salt, pepper and 
 nutmeg, then taken up and cream sauce made in 
 the same saucepan, with yolks and grated cheese 
 added; the fish placed in layers in a baking dish 
 with sauce between and crumbs and grated cheese
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 339 
 
 HAM 
 
 on top, and butter; baked brown. CKIMPED HALI- 
 BUT Strips of halibut cut from the fish as soon as 
 killed and immediately thrown into ice-water and 
 allowed to remain for some time. This makes the 
 fish firm and flakey. It is boiled in salted water, 
 and served with caper or other fish sauce. BAKED 
 HALIBUT WITH CREAM -A dish of picked halibut 
 meat in cream sauce, with chopped mushrooms, 
 bread-crumbed on top and browned. FRIED HALI- 
 BUT, TOMATO SAUCE Slices dipped in milk, then 
 in flour, fried light brown; sauce in a bowl. HALI- 
 BUT PIE Same ways as eel pie and other pies. 
 HALIBUT A LA CHAMBORD Halibut steaks larded 
 through and through with mushroom stalks cut in 
 strips and shreds of cucumbers and anchovies; 
 brushed over with lemon juice, let stand an hour 
 or two. Then dipped in flour, cooked macaroni 
 laid on in cross-bars; egged over the top, baked in 
 buttered pan. Decorated with mushrooms, lemons, 
 beets, parsley; thick brown sauce piquante. 
 
 HAM "THE HAM FAIR -Every spring is held, 
 on the Boulevard Richard Lenoir, at Paris, the ham 
 fair, which fills the air with the odor of bacon. A 
 double row of booths runs along the boulevard. 
 Between bouquets of laurel are suspended cakes of 
 dripping, sausages dry as marble, and smoked hams; 
 large basins of lard stand about; smoked garlic-fla- 
 vored sausages and other similar dainties are heaped 
 up mountain high. Behind the exhibits are gathered 
 whole families of country folk; the wife wears a 
 large white apron, the husband walks about with 
 knife in hand, inviting everybody to try his goods. 
 The ham fair which has just been held is said to have 
 been better supplied than it has been for years. 
 Lyons and Ar)es sent the finest specimens of pork, 
 and Bayonne was, as usual, represented by its fam- 
 ous hams. Garlic sausages represented the town of 
 Yire, and from the district of the Loire, from Italy 
 and Switzerland, the products were excellent." 
 STEAMED HAM Steaming is by far the best way 
 of cooking a ham. Lay in cold water for 12 hours; 
 wash very thoroughly, rubbing with a stiff brush to 
 dislodge the salt and smoke on the outside. Put into 
 a steamer, cover closely, and set it over a pot of boil- 
 ing water. Allow at least 20 minutes to a pound. 
 Keep the water at a hard boil. Spinach or some 
 green vegetable should be served with it. ROAST 
 HAM Soak the ham for 12 hours in water, place it 
 in a deep dish or earthenware pan, and soak for 24 
 hours in white wine, seasoned with sliced onions, 
 carrots, parsley, laurel -leaves, and thyme; cover the 
 pan with a cloth, and press on the lid very tight to 
 prevent the air getting in. Roast the ham, baste 
 with the wine in which it was soaked. When suffici- 
 ently done, dish it on a pure'e of spinach. BOILED 
 HAM "Brush the ham thoroughly with a dry brush, 
 removing every particle of dust or mould. Soak for 
 an hcjjir in cold water, and then wash thoroughly. 
 With a very sharp knife shave off cleanly the hard- 
 ened surface from the face and butt of the ham. Put 
 it over the fire in cold water and let it come to a 
 
 HAM 
 
 moderate boil and keep it steadily at this point, al- 
 lowing it to cook 20 minutes for every pound of meat. 
 A ham weighing 12 Ibs. will need to boil 4 hours. 
 This time should never be cut short; on smaller hams 
 it should rather be extended. The ham is to be served 
 cold; allow the joint to remain in the pot after it is 
 removed from the fire for several hours, until the 
 water in which it has been cooked is cold. Then dish 
 as before suggested." After a ham has been sim- 
 mered it is a great improvement to put it in a mod- 
 erately warm oven, with a buttered paper over it, 
 and bake for an hour. This is a Yorkshire custom, 
 and a. good one. COOK-SHOP HAM At the ham- 
 and-beef shops, which constitute one of the catering 
 features of London, the following method of boiling 
 hams is adopted with excellent results: The hams 
 are always placed in cold water in a copper, under 
 which a small fire is made, which raises the water 
 very slowly to the boiling point. The moment this 
 is accomplished the fire is raked out, the copper cov- 
 ered over, and the hams are allowed to remain in the 
 water until it is nearly cold. By this means the flesh 
 is rendered tender and juicy, and the loss of weight 
 is guarded against. PRIZE-HAM CURING The 
 following is the method of curing hams that re- 
 ceived the prize at a New England fair: To every 
 hundred pounds of meat take eight pounds of salt, 
 two ounces of saltpetre, two pounds brown sugar, 
 and one and a quarter ounces potash and. four gallons 
 \vater. Mix them and pour the liquids over the hams 
 after they have been in the tub two days, they hav- 
 ing been rubbed with fine salt when put in the tub. 
 They should remain in this pickle six weeks, then 
 taken out, hung up three days to dry, and smoked. 
 FRIED HAM FOR BREAKFAST Is particularly nice 
 when the slices are cut the night before and are al- 
 lowed to soak all night in a cup of water into which 
 a tablespoonful of sugar has been added. This 
 softens the meat and removes excessive saltness. 
 DEVILLED HAM Cut slices of cold ham, fry in their 
 own fat, and when done arrange in a hot dish. Keep 
 warm while you add to the gravy a teaspoonful of 
 made mustard, a good pinch of pepper, a saltspoon- 
 ful of white sugar, and three tabiespoonsful of vin- 
 egar. Mix these well together before stirring into 
 the gravy; heatall to a sharp boil, pour over the ham, 
 and let it stand, covered, for a minute before sending 
 to the table. There is nothing more appetizing than 
 this dish. HAM COOKED IN CIDER Always cook a 
 ham in cider when you can get it. Boil three hours 
 and bake three, using also the cider to baste with. 
 The apple seems the natural accompaniment of pork. 
 Always scrub the ham well before boiling. HAM 
 GLACE, CHAMPAGNE SAUCE (/) A ham pared, and 
 soaked for 24 hours in water containing a little vin- 
 egar, then covered up in a sheet of plain flour-and- 
 water paste, and baked 4 hours; glazed, and served 
 with champagne sauce. (2) A ham pared, soaked 
 for 12 hours, boiled i hour, covered with a mirepoix 
 or sauce consisting of fried onions and herbs 
 moistened with wine, then inclosed in a sheet of
 
 340 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 HAM 
 
 plain paste, and baked 3 or 4 hours; glazed, and 
 served with champagne sauce. JAMBON D'YORK. 
 A Yorkshire ham, or ham served in Yorkshire style' 
 It is pared, soaked for 12 hours in water, boiled an 
 hour, the rind removed; roasted or baked 2 hours, 
 glazed with the gravy and a dust of sugar, the hock 
 pared, and a paper-ruffle put around the bone; served 
 with Yorkshire-ham sauce. JAMBON A LA BROCHE- 
 Ham roasted on a spit. JAMBON A LA MAILLOT 
 Ham braised in wine, served with vegetables and 
 Madeira sauce. JAMBON WESTPHALIENNE West- 
 phalia in Germany is famous for a brand of small 
 hams. JAMBON GLACE A LA JARDINIERE A ham 
 baked, glazed, and garnished with various vegeta- 
 bles separately stewed in butter and glazed. HAM 
 GARNISH For filling potato or rice borders, casse- 
 roles, croustades, etc., is made by cutting ham in 
 large dice, button onions same size as the ham pieces 
 fried with them; butter and flour and broth made 
 into sauce, and green peas added. CROUTONS OF 
 HAM Chopped ham, chives, parsley, butter, cay- 
 enne, yolk; stirred up over the fire; served on fried 
 bread. MINCED HAM ON TOAST Like the preced- 
 ing; the seasonings of the ham may be varied with 
 catsups, mustard, and bottle sauces. HAM CRO- 
 QUETTES Made of i cup ham, 2 cups dry mashed 
 potato, i cup bread-crumbs, i tablespoon butter, i 
 egg, pepper; made in balls, breaded, fried. HAM 
 FRITTERS Minced ham, bread-crumbs, and egg to 
 moisten; made in pats or balls, dipped in bafter and 
 fried. HAM CAKE Remains of ham pounded in a 
 mortar with butter, shaped in a mould, turned out 
 and eaten cold; or mixed with crumbs and egg it 
 makes small ham-cakes to fry and serve hot. HAM 
 A LA ROYAL A fancy ornamental dish for ball sup- 
 pers, etc. Thin fine slices of lean cooked ham are 
 rolled into cylinder-shapes, fastened with melted 
 gelatine, set on end when cold, and filled with 
 whipped cream containing gelatine to set it and cel- 
 ery-salt for flavor; garnished with green leaves and 
 jelly. 
 
 HAMBURG BEEF Beef cured in a salt pickle 
 with spices and herbs; spiced beef. 
 
 HAMBURG STEAK Beef sausage meat con- 
 taining minced onion and a slight flavor of garlic, 
 formed in flat round pats and fried in butter; served 
 either as plain steak for breakfast, or with various 
 sauces as a dinner entree. 
 
 HANCHE DE MOUTON (Fr.) Haunch of 
 mutton. 
 
 HAND GRENADES For extinguishing fires. 
 They are thin bottles filled with a chemical liquid 
 said to consist of 4 oz. carb. soda, 2 oz. alum, 2 oz. 
 borax, i oz. pearl ash, i Ib. solution of silicate of 
 soda, i gal. water; corked in easily broken bottles 
 which are thrown into the flames if fire breaks out. 
 
 HANOVER BUNS Small round rolls or rusks, 
 made of i Ib. floor, i oz. yeast, J^ pt. warm milk, 6 
 oz. butter, 2 oz. sugar, 4 yolks, rind of J lemon; 
 fermented and worked like bread. 
 
 HAR 
 
 HARE Hares are not found in the United States, 
 unless it be in California, but a great many come to 
 our markets both from England and Canada, and 
 their peculiar gamy flavor renders them generally 
 great favorites. They are very fine eating when 
 young, and very bad indeed when old. Examine 
 the ears; if they tear easily, the hare is young and 
 delicate, and if the body is still stiff, it is in good 
 condition; but never buy a limp hare. The ears of 
 a hare are considered a great delicacy; they require 
 scalding and careful cleaning, and must be closely 
 watched for fear they will burn. AMERICAN HARE 
 rls known as jack-rabbit. It abounds in Colorado 
 and throughout the plains country; is remarkable 
 when dressed for the excess of blood yielded by the 
 meat, and would well fill the requirements for Scotch 
 hare soup on that account. HARE SOUP The chief 
 ingredient of Scotch hare soup is the blood of the 
 animal, which must be property utilized; therefore 
 let every drop of it be carefully preserved by the 
 cook. A snared hare or a coursed hare is better for 
 soup than one from which the blood has escaped. 
 The hare is cut in joints, steeped in a little cold 
 water to draw the blood; the best pieces of meat 
 saved to boil in the soup, the bones and rough pieces 
 boiled in beef stock with celery, carrot and turnip 
 for 3 hours. Strained, the blood added, and all 
 stirred over the fire till it boils again, then let boil 
 2 hours more with the pieces of hare in it, and sea- 
 sonings. Grated potato added for thickening. 
 PUREE OF HARE A L'ANGLAISE The hare is cut 
 up and the blood saved; the pieces fried with liver, 
 onion, carrot and butter; mushrooms, spices, herbs 
 added, and stock, all stewed tender; pieces of hare 
 meat pounded through a seive, mixed with starch 
 and the blood, stirred in the strained stock over the 
 fire till it thickens. Served with forcemeat balls or 
 quenelles. LIEVRE EN DAUBE Jugged hare; the 
 hare boned, the bones and head pounded and stewed 
 in broth and wine, with vegetables; the hare placed 
 in a jar lined with slices of bacon, seasoned, the 
 bone liquor poured in, bacon on top, baked in a 
 slow oven 4 hours; served in the jar. CIVET DE 
 LIEVRE Another name for jugged hare; stewed 
 hare. LIEVRE SAUTE A hare cut in pieces, fried 
 in butter, served in sauce made of the butter with 
 flour, wine and mushrooms. FILETS DE LIEVKE 
 The fleshy strips from the back fried and dressed in 
 a circle with brown sauce. FILETS DE LIEVKE PI- 
 QUES, SAUCE TOMATO Fillets of hare larded and 
 braised, served with tomato sauce. FILETS DE 
 LIEVRE PIQUES A LA BOURGUIGNOTTE Fillets exit 
 in halves, larded and braised; dressed in a crown 
 with brown sauce, bacon cut in dice, young onions, 
 button mushrooms and wine. COTELETTES DE 
 LIEVRE A LA DAUPHINE Hare cutlets; slices off 
 the fillets, with a small bone stuck in each to imitate 
 
 J a lamb chop; breaded and fried. Piquante sauce 
 and chopped olives. TURBAN DE LIEVRE A LA 
 PERON.NE Hare cutlets arranged in a circle alter- 
 
 , nately with quenelles of forcemeat of hare (like epi-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 341 
 
 ] I AR 
 
 gramme of fowl;; white sauce with vinegar, pickled 
 onions, etc. BOL'DINS DE LIEVRE Rolls of force 
 meat of hare bread-crumbed and browned a vari- 
 ation of rissoles or croquettes of hare. ROAST HARE 
 "Opinions are divided as to the propriety of roast- 
 ing a hare; and we inust say that a ciret Je lie^re a 
 la Francaisc, or even the English jugged hare, are 
 better forms of eating a hare, if it be not true that 
 hares were solely invented to be made into soup, as 
 we have heard Scotchmen say. If, however, you 
 will roast your hare, you should lard him very 
 thickly all over the back and thighs. He should be 
 basted plentifully and continuously with butter, and 
 he should not be overdone." LIEVRE EX GITE 
 Potted hare; jugged hare. "In France we have 
 tureen-gites, made for the purpose; they are very 
 appropriate, the cover representing a hare lying at 
 rest." Boned hare in a suitable tureen or jar packed 
 with bacon-slices, sausage meat, aromatics, wine, 
 and strong broih made from the bones; baked 3 hrs. ; 
 served cold in the jar or tureen. 
 
 HARICOTS (Fr.) Beans. HARICOTS BLANCS- 
 Xavy beans. HARICOTS VERTS-String beans. HA- 
 RICOTS FLAGEOLETS See Flageolets. 
 
 HARICOT A mutton stew with vegetables; 
 brown. (See Navarin.) 
 
 HASH Various contrivances with cooked meat; 
 generally small pieces in a brown gravy. CORNED- 
 BEEF HASH (/) Corned beef chopped small and 
 mixed with mashed potatoes, smoothed over in a 
 pan, buttered, and baked brown. (2) Minced corned 
 beef and minced potatoes with an onion, salt and 
 pepper simmered in a little broth and stirred around 
 till partly thickened; served out of the saucepan, 
 sprinkled with parsley. FRENCH HASH Minced 
 onion, butter and flour fried together, water to make 
 sauce of it, small pieces of beef thrown in; when 
 hot, two yolks stirred in, and glass of wine, and sea- 
 soning. HACHIS A LA TOULOUSAINE Hash balls or 
 croquettes of beef made by mincing cooked beef and 
 adding boiled calf's brains and yolks enough to 
 make a paste of it; seasoned with acnhovy essence 
 salt, pepper, spices; balled up, breaded, fried; tomato 
 sauce. 
 
 HATELET (Fr.) Skewer; same as atelet and 
 brochette; generally, however, used to designate the 
 silver skewers used for the decoration of cooked 
 meats. 
 
 HAWK A Texas sportsman has pronounced 
 hawk to be excellent food. He found the smell 
 "exceedingly comforting," and, though rather rich, 
 hawk was "tender, of a gamey, very good flavor, 
 peculiar to itself, and entirely different to that of any 
 other bird I ever ate," he writes. 
 
 HEAVENLY HASH "The curious name for 
 the newest American fashionable dish: Oranges, 
 bananas, lemons, apples, raisins, and pineapples are 
 cut up into little bits, worked just enough to thicken 
 their juices, and then served with a grated nutmeg. 
 But the serving is the pretty part. Cut a hole large 
 
 HER 
 
 enough to admit a spoon in the stem end of an or- 
 ange, which you empty, then fill with the hash, and 
 serve on a littie glass fruit-dish with lemon or or- 
 ange leaves. 
 
 HEAD CHEESE Cold dish made of pig's head 
 boiled with seasonings; cut in pieces, stewed down 
 again with the strained liquor, and either allowed to 
 set in the liquor, which is a firm jelly when cold, 
 or pressed into a solid cake. Collared brawn, col- 
 lared rind and fromage de cochon are other names of 
 the same dish, the ingredients being slightly varied 
 with other odds and ends of meat. 
 
 1 1 EDGEHOG A correspondent says that he can 
 from experience safely recommend a hedgehog 
 stewed in milk as a real delicacy. It is well known 
 that roast hedgehog is a favorite dish with English 
 gypsies. "Hedgehog is good, at least for a change, 
 and it used to be well cooked in a small tavern in the 
 Ghetto of Rome, to which artists frequently resorted 
 when their spirits were high and their funds low. 
 According to an aged South Italian sportsman, they 
 should be killed in the woods and immediately 
 skinned, then allowed to hang for a few hours, and, 
 after being trussed with their own quills, be roasted 
 before a sharp fire. The stuffing should be made of 
 their own fat, finely chopped with bread-crumbs 
 and such seasoning as suits the cook's taste." 
 
 HELENA PUDDING A rich bread-custard 
 pudding baked with jam in the bottom of the dish. 
 
 HELL-BENDER The hell-bender was first on 
 the list of piscatorial delicacies at a fish dinner. It 
 was pronounced equal to the finest salmon, but only 
 the President and the favored few had a chance to 
 eat of it. It is a higher form of lizard, is about a 
 foot long, is as flat as a pancake, and of a dirty mud 
 color, while a funny little fringe that stands out 
 horizontally runs all the way lengthwise around its 
 body. The head is heart-shaped, and it has wicked 
 little black eyes like beads. Its four stumpy legs 
 end in white toes. It is called by scientific gentle- 
 men the Menapoma Allegheniensis, and is a sala- 
 mander. \Vhen you plague it with a stick ever so 
 gently, it humps its back like a Mexican mustang, 
 standing perfectly still on the tips of its white toes. 
 It is said that a hell-bender will seize a stick in a 
 person's hand, and will hang on while it is carried a 
 mile. 
 
 HERRING There is a fresh water herring abun - 
 dantin Lake Superior; its fins however show it to 
 be allied to the salmon family; it is white fleshed 
 and the fillets are boneless, like brook trout. THE 
 SEA HERRING is one of the most abundant fishes, 
 but its season is so short that fresh herring is a lux- 
 ury while it lasts. FRESH HERRINQ WITH MUS- 
 TARD SAL'CE Soft roed herrings, the sides scored 
 with a knife, soaked a while in oil, salt and pepper, 
 broiled, served with white sauce with mustard stir- 
 red in. FRESH HERRING WITH ONIONS In the Isle 
 of Man and other great herring localities we have 
 seen fried onions served as an accompaniment to
 
 342 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 HIP 
 
 fried herring and shad, and it is so generally appre- 
 ciated that we think those who have not thought of 
 the combination might try it without fear of a dis- 
 appointment. After the fish are fried, they should be 
 laid on a soft cloth before the fire, and turned every 
 two of three minntes, //// dry on both sides. It is 
 well to keep old linen table-cloths to cut up for this 
 purpose. RED HERRINGS AND BLOATERS The her- 
 ring house is a lofty shed, about |thirty or forty feet 
 high, divided into compartments by racks or hori- 
 zontal bars of wood, across which the wooden spits, 
 loaded with herrings, are laid as close as possible, 
 from the top of the house to within six feet of the 
 floor. A fire of oak-wood, or billets, as they are 
 called, is then kindled beneath them, and is allowed 
 to burn some six or seven hours. This is called a 
 blenv, from the effect it has in distending the skin of 
 the fish. In order perfectly to cure the herrings, 
 they must be subjected to ten or twelve such blows, 
 or firings, an interval elapsing between each, to al- 
 low the fat and oil to drip from them, so that the pro- 
 cess of making a red-herring occupies six or seven 
 days. The bloaters, or blown herrings, are sub- 
 jected to only one firing, and are much less dry. 
 These are intended for immediate consumption, and, 
 of course, do not require so long a time for curing. 
 RED HERRING ON HORSEBACK In former days in 
 England, it was the unbroken custom to serve, at 
 certain seasons, a particular dish first; as a boar's 
 head at Christmas, a goose at Michaelmas, a gam- 
 mon of bacon, or a "red herring riding away on 
 horseback" at Easter. This last was after the fike- 
 ness of a man on horseback set in a corn salad. 
 BAKED HERRINGS Fresh herrings twisted in a 
 round, placed in a deep pie dish with vinegar, pep- 
 per and a bay leaf; baked 45 minutes, served with 
 the liquor. HERRING PANCAKES Smoked herrings 
 picked from the bone, cut small, mixed in pancake 
 batter, cooled as batter-cakes. HARENG GRILLES, 
 SAUCE MOUTARDE Broiled herrings with mustard 
 sauce. HARENGS A LA CREME Fresh herrings 
 boiled, and served with cream sauce with butterand 
 lemon juice. HARENGS FUMES A LA BRCXELLOISE 
 Boneless sides of smoked herrings broiled in a 
 paper case with a layer of stuffing between them. 
 CROQUETTES DE HARENGS Smoked herrings broil- 
 ed, made into balls with potatoes same as codfish 
 balls. 
 
 HIPPOPOTAMUS Hippopotamus fat is con- 
 sidered a treat; when cured it is thought superior to 
 our best breakfast bacon; and the flesh is both pala- 
 table and nutritious, the fat being used for all the 
 ordinary uses of butter. 
 
 HISTORIE EE (Fr.) Decorated with small fig- 
 ures. 
 
 HODGE-PODGE SOUP Common English for 
 Hotch-Potch, a mixture; mutton soup thick with 
 pieces of meat and all sorts of vegetables. (See Hot- 
 Pot.) 
 
 HOKEY-POKEY ICE CREAM Italian Occhi- 
 
 HOX 
 
 Pocchi mixed colors and flavors of ice cream in 
 cakes; one form of biscuits g laces or ice cakes. 
 
 HOLLAXDAISE SAUCE A yellow sauce 
 served with boiled fish, cauliflower and asparagus, 
 made by boiling 3 tablespoons vienegar with salt 
 and white pepper till half reduced; cooled with a 
 spoonful of cold water, 4 yolks beaten in, then ^ Ib. 
 butter in bits, stirred over the fire till the yolks thick- 
 en it but not boil. 
 
 HOMARD (Fr.) Lobster. POTAGE DE Ho- 
 MARD Lobster soup. COTELETTES DE HOMARD 
 Lobster cutlets, or croquettes in cutlet shapes. 
 
 HOMINY Is grains of Indian corn freed from 
 the outer covering of bran, and therefore is white. 
 There are three or four different grades as to size, 
 from the coarse hominy, as large as peas down to 
 the white meal known as hominy grits or samp. 
 It is very cheap food; usually only 2 or 3 cents per 
 pound by the barrel. The large hominy is used as 
 a vegetable, like rice; and after boiling quite tender 
 it is fried and served for breakfast FRIED HOMI- 
 NY The form of fried hominy that is served with 
 canvas-back ducks a la Maryland, is fine hominy 
 well boiled, sliced in shapes when cold, rolled in 
 flour or corn meal and fried. HOMINY GRITS Hot 
 porridge for breakfast or supper, made of fine hom- 
 iny soaked in water several hours ; boiled or cooked 
 in a double kettle for 2 or 3 hours, served with milk 
 or cream. HOMINY PUDDING Made the same ways 
 as rice puddings. HOMINY FRITTERS (/) Coarse 
 hominy well cooked, stirred into enough flour bat- 
 ter to hold it together, spoonfuls dropped into hot 
 lard and fried brown. (2) Fine hominy porridge, 
 with eggs, sugar, and little flour beaten in; spoon- 
 fuls dropped in hot lard and fried brown. HOMINY 
 CROQUETTES Fine hominy porridge mixed wkh 
 grated cheese, eggs and little flour, rolled up when 
 cold and stiff, egged, breaded, fried. HOMINY AND 
 CHEESE Cooked hominy of either kind made up 
 with cheese, baked brown. LYE HOMINY OR 
 HULLED CORN Indian corn steeped in water con- 
 taining lye or potash till it swells and the skin is 
 partly dissolved, washed and either boiled with 
 milk, or fried. 
 
 HOXEY Buyers and consumers of honey will 
 do well to note'that the suspiciously light and bright 
 product, variously labelled " Californian Honey 
 Dew," "Swiss Table Honey," etc., etc., is frequent- 
 ly a sophisticated article made up of glucose and 
 such-like substances brightened by mineral acid. 
 Furthermore, darkness is no indication of inferior 
 quality, as some suppose. The color of honey de- 
 pends upon the sources from which it is collected by 
 the bees, and much of that which is of a dark color 
 is quite equal (and in some cases superior) to that 
 which is light in color; honey collected by the bees 
 from white clover, limes, fruit blossoms, sainfoin, 
 hawthorn, turnip, bean, heather, etc., being: of dif- 
 ferent hues. HONEY IN THE COMB Is offered for 
 sale almost everywhere in the season, and is the best
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 343 
 
 HOP 
 
 to serve in place of fruit for supper and of syrup 
 for breakfast. HONEY MEAD A kind of wine. 
 (See Mead.) HONEY CAKE Made of i qt. strained 
 honey, I Ib. sugar, ^ Ib. warm butter, a tablespoon 
 soda, 2 tablespoons caraway seeds, flour enough to 
 make into dough. Made up and baked like sheet 
 gingerbread. 
 
 HOPS Needed by the baker to make yeast with. 
 They will not make yeast alone but mixed with 
 mashed potatoes and scalded flour or any kind of 
 meal they strengthen the fermentation and prevent 
 sourness. Can be purchased in packages pressed. 
 About 4 oz. to each pailful is required. HOP BEER 
 Hops boiled in water and molasses or sugar added 
 to the water after straining, some yeast stirred in 
 when cool, ferments and makes beer in a few days. 
 
 HORLY OR ORLY It is spelled both ways by 
 equally good authorities, is supposed to be the name 
 of a French admiral. Only one dish seems to carry 
 that designation, consequently a la Horly always 
 signifies the same thing, viz, strips of fish dipped 
 in batter and fried and served with onions cut in 
 rings fried dry. 
 
 HORSE ME AT "To revert to horse-flesh and the 
 eating of it in Paris, M. Morillon has given me the 
 following statistics: Thus of this flesh was con- 
 sumed in 1883 something 1 ike 5,000,000 Ibs. and about 
 6,000,000 Ibs. 1884. Besides, there is to be added about 
 2,000,000 Ibs. imported into Paris, so that the total 
 consumption of horse, mule, and donkey flesh in this 
 city during the last year was about 8,000,000- Ibs. 
 (eight million pounds! or four pounds per head of 
 the entire population.) Now, what part of these 
 eight million pounds did I eat? Who shall say? 
 Ah! who shall say? " 
 
 HORSERADISH The root of a coarse-looking 
 large-leaved plant which once rooted in a garden 
 corner grows and spreads year after year without 
 much attention. The plentiful time for it is in 
 spring, when the roots are taken up and divided for 
 replanting; the great surplus of roots can then be 
 grated and bottled in vinegar for use during several 
 succeeding months. GRATED HORSERADISH There 
 are small machines, being revolving graters, for re- 
 ducing the roots to the desired fineness. Of all the 
 sauces which can be made none are in so much de- 
 mand and so generally acceptable as plain grated 
 horseradish in vinegar, which should be set upon 
 the table in ornamental jars or other proper recepta- 
 cle. ADULTERATIONS Much of the grated horse- 
 radish purchased in bottles is weakened in strength 
 by mixture with grated turnips, cabbage stalks, 
 kohl-rabi, etc., and enterprising and unscrupulous 
 gardeners make immense profits during short sea- 
 sons bv putting up these fair-looking but too mild 
 flavored imitations. Pure horseradish is too strong 
 to be eaten extravagantly, while the adulterated ar- 
 ticle is but a mild and palatable relish and becomes 
 too costly for use at horseradish prices on account of 
 the larga quantity which will be consumed. It is 
 
 HOT 
 
 wise, therefore, to buy the root and have it grated 
 on the premises. HORSERADISH SAUCE Grated 
 horseradish boiled in broth, one or two yolks beaten 
 up with some tarragon vinegar stirred into the horse- 
 radish to thicken, .but not allowed to boil; pepper 
 and nutmeg added. GERMAN HORSERADISH SAUCE- 
 Grated horseradish boiled in gravy or plain water; 
 yolks beaten up with cream and vinegar stirred in 
 to thicken; not allowed to boil. "This sauce is in- 
 variably served in Germany with all forms of beef, 
 either broiled, roasted, or boiled." NAPOLITAINE 
 SAUCE Horseradish in brown sauce with port wine, 
 ham, Worcestershire and currant jelly. RAIFORT 
 SAUCE Horseradish sauce ; made of 2 to 3 oz. grated 
 horseradish in J^ pt. cream sauce and a wine-glass 
 of white-wine vinegar. HORSERADISH MUSTARD 
 Horseradish boiled in water, strained out, and the 
 water used to mix mustard ; good condiment for beef. 
 HORSERADISH BUTTER Grated horseradish, butter 
 and lemon juice kneaded together; the butter then 
 rubbed through a seive; served with beefsteaks. 
 
 HOT BREWS Various hot drinks. CARDINAL- 
 Hot spiced port and burgundy mixed with water ac- 
 cording to taste. BISHOP Hot spiced burgundy 
 with roasted crab-apples floating in it "obviously 
 an antique custom, since Shakespeare makes Puck 
 refer to 'the roasted crab in the bowl,' which the 
 mischievous sprite delighted to make bob against 
 the old gossips' lips." MULLED WINES "For 
 making mulled wines generally, it is said that you 
 should take of spices five cloves, cinnamon, allspice, 
 nutmeg, and mace boiling them in a pint of wine 
 until the concoction is quite aromatic and bitter. It 
 should then be bottled off and kept in store, a table- 
 spoonful of the essence to be used for flavoring 
 whatever wine is mulled. For sweetening, loaf- 
 sugar is indispensable, unless prepared syrup be 
 preferred." WHITE WINE WHEY For colds; made 
 by pouring a wine-glass of cowslip- wine into ^ pt. 
 boiling milk; it immediately curdles, is strained, and 
 the clear liquor sweetened is drunk hot. LAIT DE 
 POULE Made of i egg beaten up with sugar, % pt. 
 hot milk poured to it, and a spoonful of brandy. 
 HOT APPLE TEA For colds; sliced apples with 
 sugar, boiling water poured to them, steeped ; the 
 liquor drunk hot. YARD OF FLANNEL Spiced ale 
 heated nearly to boiling point (the spice being gin- 
 ger and nutmeg), an egg or two beaten up in it, and 
 sugar; poured from one large glass to another sev- 
 eral times, drank foaming and hot. WASSAIL BOWL- 
 Xame applied to hot beer and wine, with spices and 
 spirits added, in the olden time. LOVING CUP 
 Any hot brew or punch was a loving cup when the 
 glasses of the drinkers were clinked together and 
 toasts and sentiments were pledged. APPLE TODDY- 
 A roasted apple in a glass, i teaspoon sugar.'whisky 
 enough to cover the apple, hot water to fill up. 
 PUNCH Whisky, brandy or rum with lemon, sugar 
 and hot water. COUNCILLOR'S CAP Made of % Ib. 
 loaf sugar rubbed on the rind of 2 oranges; % pt. 
 orange juice, juice of i lemon, J^ pt. brandy, i pt.
 
 344 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 HOT 
 
 boiling water. CREOLES SKIN Quarter glass boil- 
 ing water, i glass black currant wine,, a dash of gin. 
 MERRY MEN Half glass boiling water, i glass 
 Irish whisky and a dash of bay rum. RED PEPPER 
 SKIN Half glass boiling water, I teaspoonful es- 
 sence of capsicum or pepper sauce. GINGER SKIN 
 Half glass boiling water poured on i teaspoon grated 
 ginger; 15 drops essence of capsicum. 
 
 HOT-POT "A thousand hot-pots (made of 4,000 
 Ibs. of meat and 10,000 Ibs. of potatoes) were dis- 
 tributed from the bakeries of Liverpool amongst 
 the poor of that city at Christmastide. Each hot-pot 
 was supposed to yield ten substantial dinners." 
 LANCASHIRE Hor-PoT "Take an earthenware pan 
 with cover, holding a quart or more. Take i Ib. of 
 potatoes, boil them three -parts, and when cold cut 
 into slices. Take three sheep's kidneys and bruise 
 them to pieces in a mortar. Take 2 Ibs. of cutlets 
 from a neck of mutton, and pare them neatly of fat 
 and skin; take 18 oysters and preserve their liquor; 
 take a few mushrooms, clear them of all white, and 
 mince; take salt, pepper, and curry -powder in mod- 
 erate proportions. Now form in your pan alternate 
 layers of cutlets, kidneys, potatoes, oysters, mush- 
 rooms, salt, pepper, and curry-powder; add the oys- 
 ter liquor; .keep all gently simmering in a moderate 
 oven for 3 or 4 hours. Half an hour before serving 
 make a rich brown gravy with a gamey flavor, and 
 'add it to the above. Serve in the pan." 
 
 HOTCH-POTCH French hot-pot; baked soup; 
 made of 2 Ibs. beef, i Ib. sausage meat, i onion, i 
 cucumber, 3 tomatoes, few asparagus tops, i carrot, 
 piece of cabbage, y> cup raw rice, 2 cups green peas, 
 pepper, salt, cold water. "Cut the meat small and 
 put in alternate layers with the vegetables and rice 
 into a stout stone jar; pour in 3 qts. of water when 
 you have seasoned the vegetables; fit a close cover 
 on the jar, sealing around the edges with a paste of 
 flour and water; set in the oven early in the day, 
 and do not open for 6hours; then pour into the tu- 
 reen, and serve." 
 
 HOT SLAW Cabbage finely shaved off the 
 head, put in saucepan with water, vinegar, butter, 
 red pepper, salt, little sugar, yolks of eggs; brought 
 slowly to the boiling point; liquor is like thin cus- 
 tard; must not boil. COLD SLAW A LA BOIIEMI- 
 ENNE Same as the preceding without eggs; boiled; 
 in the vinegar- water for 20 minutes. 
 
 HUCKLEBERRY See Wortleberry. 
 
 HUITRES (Fr.) Oysters. 
 
 HURE DE SAXGLIER (Fr.) Boar's head. 
 
 HURE DE SAUMOX (Fr.) Head and shoul- 
 ders of salmon. 
 
 ICE In Xew York the daily consumption of ice 
 in the summer months amounts to upwards of 10,000 
 tons. At the proper hour you may walk down a 
 street and see upon every door-step a lump of ice 
 
 ICE 
 
 varying in size from a foot square upwards. In 
 fact, ice is as much an article of necessity with 
 Americans as milk. HOME-MADE ICE To make 
 ice at home, says La Science en Famille, take a cyl- 
 indrical earthen vessel and pour three and one -third 
 ounces of commercial sulphuric acid and one and 
 three-fourths ounces of water into it, and then add 
 i ounce of powdered sulphate of soda. In the centre 
 of this mixture place a smaller vessel containing 
 the water to be frozen; then cover the vessel and, if 
 possible, revolve the whole with a gentle motion. 
 In a few minutes the water in the small vessel will 
 be converted into ice. The same mixture can be 
 used a second or third time for making a block of 
 ice. The operation should, if possible, be performed 
 in a cool place in a cellar, for example. ICE OR- 
 NAMENTALLY USED At a princely entertainment 
 there were 19 tables arranged about a lofty central 
 crystal fountain 9 feet high and 5^ feet in diameter, 
 from which the water trickled down through trail- 
 ing plants, amidst which stood aquatic birds of gay 
 plumage. The fountain was surrounded by a gravel 
 path with rock-work. Huge blocks of ice were 
 raised on buffets 7 feet high in various parts of the 
 room; into these were thrown different shades of 
 color, thus giving a striking effect. ICE WINDOW 
 ORNAMENT A dome of ice hollow and with a light 
 inside makes an attractive window show for a res- 
 staurant or ice-cream house. It is made by setting 
 a round-bottomed copper candy kettle full of \v;iter, 
 plain or colored, in a tub of ice and salt freezing 
 mixture. When frozen an inch or two thick, turned 
 out, a hole bored in the bottom with a hot iron, used 
 bottom side up, with a lamp or gas inside. ICE 
 STANDS FOR ICES Colored water frozen solid in 
 moulds, turned out on a napkin, to serve as stands 
 for moulded ice-creams, frozen puddings, etc. Dif- 
 ferent colors. ICE BLOCKS FOR STRAWBERRIES 
 There is no more tempting way of serving straw- 
 berries, on a hot morning, than from a block of clear 
 ice. Chip a well in its centre and drop the berries 
 into it. A cluster of yellow roses, or other flowers, 
 or even ferns alone, will prove appropriate decora- 
 tion. 
 
 ICES Frozen sweets of all kinds, particularly 
 water ices and cream ices, or sherbets and ice 
 creams. SORBET A L'IMPERIALE A new form of 
 ice, to be served in ice-cups between the courses; 
 flavored with pineapple or strawberry, rum being 
 used with the former and champagne with the latter; 
 but so deftly concocted, that the most suspicious 
 teetotaler would partake of it in blissful ignorance. 
 NOVEL FORMS Ice-cream is now served in the 
 form of a water melon; oysters on the shell at din- 
 ner parties come enveloped in shredded lettuce like 
 sea- weed; sherbet is served in tiny pasteboard 
 punch bowls, and cherries and plums filled with 
 cordial are served with dessert. MOULDED CELEB- 
 RITIES " When in Munich, the daughters of Wag- 
 ner, the composer, ordered ices at a cafe, and these 
 were placed before them made into the likeness of
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 345 
 
 ICE 
 
 Wagner. Of course, they were surprised, and re- 
 fused the ices, and explanations became necessary. 
 'Oh, we cannot eat our father's head!' " MAR- 
 QUISES JAMAIQUE The Marquises Jamaique, which 
 came as a very pleasant relief from the eternal 
 punch Romaine, were ices flavored with Jamaica 
 rum, an excellent stimulus in mid-dinner. ICE 
 CREAM AS WAFFLES "Turkey wings and mush- 
 rooms was a course at a club dinner party last week, 
 and the ice-cream came on the table in the form of 
 waffles." ICED RICE SNOWBALLS "A new entre- 
 met, deliciously cool and tempting at this time of 
 year, is iced rice snowballs. Freeze in the shape of 
 balls, rice well boiled in water, and flavored with 
 lemon or orange, and serve in a green glass dish, 
 covering each balls separately with whipped cream. 
 PARFAIT LEGER AUX CERISES A new and deli- 
 cious iced sweet, invented by the chefior the occa- 
 sion of a dinner to the Prince and Princess of Wales : 
 Cherry juice, to which a slight soufcon of Kirsch- 
 wasser is added, is frozen lightly and mixed with 
 sweetened whipped cream, the color being height- 
 ened by a little cochineal. The mixture is placed in 
 suitable moulds and lightly frozen. A sauce, com 
 posed of cherry juice and unfrozen whipped cream, 
 is served with the above in a sauce -boat. A ROSE 
 OF ICE One new idea is a large rose of ice, with 
 bud and leaf of the real flower inserted. Sometimes 
 the ices take the form of a lighted candle, the sockec 
 being made of brown ice, the candle of pistachio, 
 and the flame of cinramon. MOUSSES GLACES, OR 
 ICED FROTHS Whipped cream sweetened and va- 
 riously flavored piled in glasses and frozen in the 
 same glasses in which they are served. CHESTNUT 
 MOUSSE Puree of chestnuts mixed with whipped 
 cream, sugar and vanilla, frozen in a mould. ICED 
 QUAILS, OR CAILLES A LA LESSEES The little 
 birds boned, stuffed, and masked with rich brown 
 gravy, resting against a block of ice, and all sur- 
 rounded with transparent aspic. A fruit salad, in 
 cups of solid ice, served as a fitting introduction, to 
 this dish. NEAPOLITAN SORBETTO " Some of you 
 make the best ices in the world, of which I have had 
 practical experience. But why is it that it is impos- 
 sible to get the Neapolitan sorbetto, which is some- 
 thing between a water ice and a glassful of flavored 
 snow in a state of thaw? Gramolata, I should 
 call it, rather, or gramta, as in Florence. I pre- 
 sume it is as easy to make as a water ice, and only 
 needs less freezing. In the summer it is the invari- 
 able first breakfast of the Neapolitan, who would 
 be thrown into a fever by any hot beverage. The 
 favorite flavors are lemon, coffee, and cedar, and it 
 is usually eaten with biscuits or crescents." RO- 
 MAN GRANITO Equal parts of strong coffee and 
 plain sugar syrup, put into wide-mouthed bottles, 
 placed in a freezing mixture of ice and salt till half 
 frozen, served in coffee cups or glasses. CLARET 
 GRANITO Juice of 6 oranges, rind of 2, i pt. syrup, 
 i pt. claret; the orange rind previously steeped in 
 the syrup. Half frozen like roman granito. PUNCH 
 
 ICE 
 
 GRANITO Made of 3 wineglassfuls each of tea, 
 brandy, rum, syrup, maraschino, pineapple syrup, 
 orange and lemon juice and a pint of champagne. 
 Same way as other granitos. GLACE A L'ORANGE 
 Made of i qt. syrup, i pt. orange juice, rind of 3 
 oranges infused in i pt. water, strained, frozen. 
 ORANGES FILLED WITH ICES Circular piece cut 
 out, orange skin emptied with spoon, filled with 
 orange ice in which are glac6 fruits soaked in mara- 
 schino. Piece replaced, oranges frozen in sorbetiere 
 before serving. REINE-CLAUDE ICE Green-col- 
 ored ice-cream, made of pulp of green-gage plums 
 mixed with whipped cream after being nearly 
 frozen. (See Gateau Stanley.) FROZEN SOUFFLES 
 Equal parts of rather firm and sweet custard, 
 strongly flavored with vanilla, white of egg beaten 
 stiff, and whipped cream. Mix these three ingre- 
 dients very lightly together, and fill into moderate- 
 sized paper souffle-cups, which place in an ice-cave. 
 PISTACHIO CUSTARD ICE Custard made of cream, 
 sugar and yolks, pistachio nuts blanched and 
 pounded, green coloring, orange flower water, va- 
 nilla; frozen as ice cream. ORGEAT ICE Orgeat 
 is milk of almonds, made by pounding % Ib. al- 
 monds, adding 3 qts. water, sugar, orange flower 
 water, strained, frozen. GLACE CREME DE THE 
 Tea ice-cream. GLACE CREME DE VANILLE Ya- 
 nilla ice-cream. GLACE CREME DE RATAFIAS 
 Almond macaroon ice-cream. GLACE CREME 
 BAVAROISE Frozen Bavarian cream. GLACE 
 CREME DE FLORIDA Ice-cream with infusion 
 of orange flowers. GLACE CREME DE CAFE 
 Coffee ice-cream. GLACE CREME DE NOYAU 
 Noyau ice-cream. CREME D'ABRICOTS Apricot 
 ice-cream. CREME DE PECHES Peach ice-cream. 
 CREME DE FRAiSES^-Strawberry ice-cream. CREME 
 DE FRAMBOISES Raspberry ice-cream. CREME DE 
 GROSEILLES Currant ice-cream. CREME DE CE- 
 RISES Cherry ice-cream. CREME DE RAISINS 
 Grape ice-cream. CREME D'ANANAS Pineapple 
 ice-cream. CREME DE CITRON Lemon ice-cream. 
 CREME D'ORANGES Orange ice-cream. CREME 
 D'AMANDES Almond ice-cream. CREME DE Pis- 
 TACHES-Pistachio nut ice-cream. CREME DE MAR- 
 RONS-Chestnut ice-cream. CREME DE GINGEMBRE- 
 Ginger ice-cream. GLACE EAU DE CANNEBERGES 
 Cranberry water-ice. GLACE EAU DERHUBARBE- 
 Rhubarb water-ice. GLACE EAU DE PoNCHE-Punch 
 water-ice. EAU DE MELON Melon water-ice. EAU 
 DE GRENADE Pomegranate water-ice. EAU DE 
 MILLE FRUITS Mixed fruit water-ice. BISCUIT 
 GLACE Made of thick sugar-syrup flavored with 
 vanilla, beaten into 8 yolks for each pint, stirred over 
 a slow fire till it thickens, stirred again on ice till 
 cold and frothy; mixed with equal quantity of cream 
 whipped to froth; filled into paper cases powdered 
 with macaroon dust; frozen in the cases. PARFAIT 
 i AU CAFE Coffee ice-cream frozen in a mould, made 
 of coffee-syrup; beaten into S yolks for each pint, 
 thickened over the fire; stirred then on ice, mixed 
 with whipped cream. CHARLOTTE PLOMBIERES
 
 846 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 ICE 
 
 Another name for tutti-frutti ice cream, or crema de 
 Ttno', made of vanilla ice-cream mixed with whipped 
 cream, kirsckwasser to flavor, and candied fruits; 
 frozen as a charlotte in a mould lined with lady- 
 fingers. GLACE DE PLOMBIERES Almond custard 
 mixed with whipped cream and frozen; not moulded, 
 but served with apricot jam. GATEAU GLACE A 
 L'ELOISE A mould lined with whipped cream 
 frozen, interior filled with stewed cherries in cus- 
 tard, all frozen solid; turned out; served with a cus- 
 tard over it. BAKED ICE CREAM or GLACE MER- 
 INGUEE AU FOUR Ice cream turned out of a mould, 
 covered with very cold meringue and quickly 
 browned a little in a hot oven or with red-hot iron. 
 ICE BAKED IN PASTE or GLACES AU FOUR Small 
 pieces of ice folded in paste carefully to exclude the 
 air; baked brown quickly in a hot oven. BOMBE A 
 LA SOUVERAINE Mould lined with white paper, 
 inside coated with almond ice-cream, filled up with 
 tea custard mixed with whipped cream; frozen solid 
 in mould. MOUSSE AU CAFE VIERGE Coffee cus- 
 tard mixed when cold with whipped cream; frozen 
 solid in a mould. CHARLOTTE GLACE A L v ME- 
 DICIS Charlotte-russe filled with chocolate ice- 
 cream. GLACE PRALINEE A L'ORANGB Mould 
 filled on one side with almond nougat ice-cream, 
 the other side with orange water-ice. FILBERT 
 ICE-CREAM Nougat or filbert^ candy pounded, used 
 to flavor the cream. FLORENTINE ICE-CREAM 
 Custard and cream flavored strongly with orange - 
 rind; frozen. MOUSSE AUX PRAISES Strawberry 
 pulp, sugar and whipped cream frozen. MUSCOVITE 
 WITH CURRANTS Russian or whipped jelly made of 
 currant juice and gelatine, mixed with whipped 
 cream frozen in a mould. MOUSSE AU CAFE NOIR 
 Coffee custard when cold mixed with whipped 
 cream and frozen. MOUSSE AUX PECHES Pulp of 
 ripe raw peaches with custard and whipped cream; 
 frozen. MUSCOVITE OF PEACHES Peach pulp, 
 sugar, gelatine and water mixed -with whipped 
 cream, and frozen. MOUSSE AU MARASQUIN Cus- 
 tard of volks and syrup flavored with maraschino 
 and kirsdrwasser, mixed with whipped cream, and 
 frozen. MUSCOVITE OF PINEAPPLE Grated pine- 
 apple, sugar and gelatine made into jelly, whipped, 
 mixed with whipped cream, and frozen. BOMBE 
 AUX FRUITS Bomb-shaped mould lined with choc- 
 olate ice-cream, center filled with tutti-frutti; frozen 
 solid. EXCELLENT AU CAFE Coffee -flavored 
 custard mixed with whipped cream, and frozen in a 
 square mould. SPONGADE DI ROMA Frozen egg- 
 nogg. BROWN BREAD ICE-CREAM Slice of brown 
 bread without crust, and slice of sponge cake dried 
 in the oven, pounded, sifted, mixed in curacao; 
 frozen. PUNCH ICE-CREAM Made of i pt. cream, 
 2 glasses Jamaica rum, J^ pt, green tea, juice of J^ 
 lemon, 8 oz. sugar; frozen. CREMA DI VINO A 
 tutti-frutti with wine made of cream custard; white 
 wine, sugar, cut candied fruits; frozen. RICE ICE- 
 CREAM Rice boiled in milk, mixed with custard 
 and cream; frozen. COCOANUT ICE-CREAM Either 
 
 ICE 
 
 white or yellow, made by mixing grated fresh cocoa- 
 nut, or desiccated cocoanut scalded in either custard 
 and cream or starch -thickened cream. PANACHEE 
 ICE-CREAM Different colored ices in the same 
 mould; marbled ice-cream; ribbon ice-cream; harle- 
 quin ice-cream. GLUCOSE IN ICE CREAM See 
 Glucose. Glucose used for sweetening instead of 
 sugar makes ice cream smooth and light and foamy; 
 a valuable wrinkle. GELATINE IN ICE CREAM A 
 small quantity of gelatine, not more than i oz. in 3 
 qts., makes it smooth and light and less easy to melt. 
 Wine jelly or any gelatine jelly can be employed as 
 well. 
 
 ICED SOUPS Clear soups are sometimes served 
 ice-cold, like iced tea or coffee, in consomm cups. 
 "At a recent ball -supper given by the Rao of Cutch 
 in London, iced sou^p was served, and eagerly de- 
 voured by the guests, who were regaled with true In- 
 dian curries and devilled chicken of superlative ex- 
 cellence." 
 
 ICED PUDDINGS Compound ice-creams, such 
 as those containing fruit, nuts, cocoanut, rice, tapi- 
 oca, etc., are sometimes called iced puddings; some 
 
 ICE MOULD. 
 For several colors, or ice puddings, creams, etc. 
 
 are composed of two parts in a mould as an outside 
 of rice ice-cream with a filling of apple-ice. The 
 best known is called Nesselrode, which see. 
 
 ICELAND MOSS A lichen which serves the 
 purpose of making jelly like gelatine. 
 
 ICE-MAKING MACHINES Artificial ice is 
 made in almost every large town, even in the far 
 south and the AVest Indies. Small machines for fam- 
 ily use also are on sale. The freezing is effected by 
 the rapid evaporation of ammonia, which produces 
 intense cold in pipes which run through brine, 
 which thus becomes cold enough to freeze fresh 
 water that is set in it in cans. The ammonia is con- 
 densed and used over again. A complete hotel 
 "plant" costs from $2,000 to $3,000. 
 i ICE CRUSHERS Various devises for crushing, 
 shaving and rasping ice are in the market, suitable 
 for ice-cream freezers and bar-tender's use. 
 
 ICE CREAM MOULDS They are made of all
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 347 
 
 ICI 
 
 shapes and sizes, of tin, copper, lead and pewter; 
 like melons, pyramids, fruits, bricks, bombs, jugs, 
 and new designs are always coming out. Figures, 
 such as cupids, birds, etc., are in two parts hinged 
 together; the joints are sealed up with butter to keep 
 the salt water from reaching the ice cream inside. 
 It is found best to line such moulds as admit of it 
 with white paper to facilitate the withdrawal of the 
 moulded ice. 
 
 ICING CAKES Sometimes called frosting; the 
 covering- of cakes with a coating of sugar, and orna- 
 menting them. 
 
 ICING Is of several kinds. WATER ICING 
 Fine powdered sugar wetted with water, and fla- 
 vored, and spread over the surface of the cake. It 
 is of a pearly, semi-transparentappearance,and does 
 not break when the cake is cut. Is also made with 
 fruit- juices or syrup instead of water, or with wine, 
 or colored with any confectionery coloring. FON- 
 DANT ICING Creamed sugar, such as chocolate- 
 cream drops, etc., are made of, is partially dissolved 
 and poured and spread over cakes while warm, and 
 
 TUBES FOR CAKE ORNAMENTING. 
 
 considered the best kind of icing. It contains no 
 white of eggs, but the sugar is boiled to the degree 
 of soft ball, then worked with a paddle on a slab till 
 perfectly white. WHITE- OF- EGG ICING Powdered 
 sugar wetted with white of egg and beaten with a 
 paddle about 15 minutes, or till firm and white. A 
 little acid of any harmless kind assists in the mak- 
 ing. When firm enough to pipe ornaments on the 
 cake, part of it is thinned down with more white of 
 egg to spread over the surface of the cake smooth 
 and glossy; the ornamenting is put on when the 
 coating is partly dry. CHOCOLATE ICING Grated 
 chocolate beaten into boiling sugar at the stage of 
 the "feather" or soft ball, a little lard or fat of some 
 kind added to make it glossy. YELLOW IciNG-Made 
 with yolks and sugar; or, white icing colored. AL- 
 
 IND 
 
 CGHOL ACID TO STIFFEN ICING Bakers' specialty. 
 One ounce "Uric acid in 2 oz. alcohol; it slowly dis- 
 solves; a few drops added to icing when beating 
 makes it firm and white. 
 
 ICING TUBES OR IOINTS Small cones of 
 thin brass or other metal about an inch long, to be 
 obtained at the confectioners' supply stores. The 
 points are filed into various shapes, which shape 
 the cords of icing pressed through them. They 
 are used by dropping them as point into a cone- 
 shaped bag or paper, with the points cut off to re- 
 ceive them, and the bag is then filled with icing. 
 
 IMPERIAL GENOISE CAKE-Richest cake 
 mixture; made of i Ib. sugar, i6eggs, % Ib. butter, 
 Yt, Ib. flour, % Ib. ground almonds, vanilla, almond 
 and lemon extracts. Eggs and sugar whisked in 
 kettle set in warm water, melted butter poured in, 
 then almonds and flour. Baked in shallow moulds 
 or in sheets. 
 
 IMPERIAL PUNCH Made of pineapple, or- 
 anges, vanilla, lemons, sugar, cinnamon, hock, rum, 
 champagne, seltzer, and water. 
 
 IMPERIAL PUDDING A LA CORDON 
 BLEU Dry cooked rice rubbed through a seive, 
 seasoned with little butter, sugar and cinnamon; 
 mould lined with it. Inside filled half with grated 
 pineapple and raw egg, rest of space with cocoanut, 
 custard (raw), with eggs plenty to set firm; steamed, 
 turned out of mould. 
 
 INDIAN PIUTE COOKERY "The Indians at 
 the Sink of the Humboldt catch a great many small 
 fish, of which they make a kind of chowder. The 
 fish are caught by means of dip-nets, some S feet 
 square, suspended from a pole supported on two 
 crotchets, like an old-fashioned well-sweep. These 
 nets are worked by the squaws. They catch from a 
 quart to a peck of minnows at a dip. The fish so 
 caught are beaten into a sort of pulp or paste, just 
 as they come out of the water, insides, outsides and 
 all. A certain amount of flour is then added to the 
 mass, and it is either baked and eaten as a cake or 
 boiled and eaten as a sort of soup or chowder." 
 
 INDIAN PUDDINGS Made of corn meal, gen- 
 erally boiled mush or porridge mixed with butter, 
 syrups, eggs, ginger, baked. 
 
 INDIAN CHUTNEY Relish made of Soz. su- 
 gar, 4 oz. salt, 2 oz. garlic, 2 oz. shallots, 4 oz. ground 
 ginger, 2 oz. red peppers, 4 oz. mustard seed, 6 oz. 
 raisins stoned, i bottle vinegar, 15 large sour ap- 
 ples, 6 oz. tomatoes. Chop up the garlic, shallots, 
 tomatoes, and raisins, and wash the -mustard seed in 
 vinegar and let it dry. Then add all to the apples 
 and sugar, and boil slowly for an hour and a half. 
 Add the other half -bottle of vinegar; let it cool, and 
 bottle off or cover in jars. 
 
 INDE (Fr.) Coq dTnde is the old name of the 
 turkey, whence the present dinde. The old French 
 is still sometimes used in bills of fare. 
 
 INDIENNE (Fr.) Relating to the East Indies.
 
 348 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 IRI 
 
 SOUP A L'INDIENNE Curry soup. SAUCE IXDIEN- 
 NE Indian sauce or tomato sauce with curry and 
 anchovy essence. INDIENNE DE POLXAKDE Chick- 
 en or capon in Indienne sauce or curry sauce used 
 in the same sense as a Snedoise (Swede) of peaches, 
 or Muscovite of apricots. 
 
 IRISH MOSS Similar to Iceland moss and used 
 for the same purpose. A determined attempt was 
 made a few years ago to popularise these mosses for 
 use instead of gelatine and isinglass, but the pre- 
 pared moss was never free from a peculiar and un- 
 pleasant taste and the efforts of the manufacturers 
 proved abortive. 
 
 IRISH STEW Mutton stewed with potatoes and 
 onions, salt and pepper, until quite tender, and the 
 liquor is reduced to the richness of gravy. A cer- 
 tain essayist assures us that there are three dishes 
 which, if put upon the bill of fare of a club, are de- 
 voured before all else, so that at seven or eight 
 o'clock, when most members dine, there is nothing 
 left of them but the tempting words on the dinner- 
 bill. These dishes are Irish stews, tripe and onions, 
 and liver and bacon ! "What a tribute," exclaims 
 our author, "to the homely cookery of Britain." 
 
 ISINGLASS Made from fish, the best is made 
 from the swim -bladder of the sturgeon. It is used 
 for making jelly and for all the purposes of gelatine 
 but being dearer than that is not now much used. 
 When gelatine was first made in a refined and shred- 
 ded form it was sold as isinglass. 
 
 ITALIAN COOKER Y-As the spit and gridiron 
 are specialities of the English kitchen, so the fry- 
 ing-pan is the speciality of the Italian cook; and, as 
 England has taught the world to roast, so Italy has 
 taught the world to fry. Frying is quite a science 
 in that country and a science which every maid and 
 mistress studies with all her might, for as there is 
 no Italian dinner without its ante-pasto, so there is 
 none of any consequence without its dish of fry or 
 fritto, as it is called in Italy. Meat, fish, vegetables, 
 all may be fried, and generally meat and vegetables, 
 or fish and vegetables, are fried together. What- 
 ever the articles, they must be fried in boiling fat, 
 and at a brisk fire. Not a moment must elapse be- 
 tween the frying and the serving. The smallest de- 
 lay is ruinous to the success of the dish, as it tends 
 to make the fritto lose its crispness, and become flab- 
 by. Whilst the soup is being, taken, the fritto is 
 cooked. If need be, good eaters will readily con- 
 sent to a "wait" rather than endanger the full suc- 
 cess of the fritto. OIL FOR FRYING Oil is much 
 used in Italy for frying, especially for fish. But Ita- 
 ly has the advantage of pure oils, which this coun- 
 try does not possess. Oil, even the best, has the 
 disadvantage of burning very easily and of making 
 the fritto too dark in color, instead of a rich golden- 
 brown, which it should be. FKITTO MISTO Every 
 kind of meat, vegetables, and fish may be fried. 
 The favorite Italian fritto, however, is the mixed 
 fritto composed of veal cutlets, calf's brains (which 
 
 ITA 
 
 is quite equal to sweetbread) and sliced artichokes, 
 gourds or potatoes cut in short narrow sticks. A 
 great secret of the excellence of the Italian fritto 
 is that everything that is to be fried is previously 
 soaked in a batter made of different ingredients, 
 which vary according to what has to be fried. For 
 an ordinary mixed fritto, for instance, vou make a 
 batter composed, say, of a qnarter of a pound of 
 flour to the yolk of one egg, a tea-spoonful of vine- 
 gar or the juice of half a lemon, and thirty grains 
 of fine oil. Beat well together, adding occasionally 
 a little water or beer, or white wine, just enough to 
 make the batter liquid. Then beat the white of the 
 egg apart and to a foam, and add this foam to the 
 batter at the very last moment, just as you are going 
 to fry. The calf's brains must be well cleaned, skin- 
 ned, and rinsed or boiled for a few minutes before 
 being fried, and the same with sweetbread; they 
 must be then left to cool. When cold they are cut 
 into small pieces, about the size of a large walnut. 
 Soak them first in a little oil, salt, and vinegar. Then 
 dry then with a clean cloth and soak in the batter, 
 from which they are thrown into boiling fat or but- 
 ter and fried to a rich golden color. When quite 
 crisp, and of the required color, take them out of the 
 fat and lay them on clean white paper or a clean 
 cloth, to ibsorb the fat. They should also be served 
 on a cloth. Cutlets only require to be soaked in the 
 batter previous to frying. Vegetables, whether ar- 
 tichokes, cauliflowers.or gourds, are partly boiled in 
 salt and water before being fried. Potatoes arc bet- 
 ter not previously boiled, but they are cut into short 
 thin strips in order to fry easily. Artichokes must 
 be triatmed of all their outer tough leaves, the heart 
 alone being fried; this is cut into four parts like an 
 orange. ROMAX FRY SHOPS In Rome there are 
 frying shops as close together as public houses in 
 London, and there persons who may not have the nec- 
 essaries to cook at home as those who live in a poor 
 lodging-house, for instance can have a good plate- 
 ful of fritto for a few pence. There is a clean bat- 
 ter before you, and the vegetables and meat prepared 
 for the pan, and the snowy white c oth on which to 
 eat. You choose the pieces you like best, and these 
 are fried before your eyes with a cleanliness equal to 
 the silver gridiron of London restaurants. These 
 fry-shops are celebrated institutions in Rome, and 
 in some high born ladies and gentlemen go to sup- 
 per on certain days of the year. Saint Joseph is the 
 patron saint of Roman frying men and women. On 
 that day the fry -shops are things to see. They are 
 decorated both within and without with white and 
 colored draperies, and flowers, and foliage, and 
 flags, and banners, and pictures, and ornaments of 
 every kind. Clerical Josephs decorate their houses 
 with images of St. Joseph himself. Liberal Josephs 
 decorate their shops with pictures of Garibaldi, 
 whose name was Joseph. It will be seen, therefore, 
 in what repute the^frying-pan is held in Italy. Near- 
 ly one hundred different fried dishes enter into the 
 Italian cuisine, one-half being of meat, and the other
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 349 
 
 ITA 
 
 half of vegetables and cereals for fasting days. The 
 way the Italians fry liver, is exquisite. You require 
 for this calf's liver, butter, capers, pine seeds, all- 
 spices, sugar, lemon-juice, vinegar, flour, salt, and 
 pepper. Cut, say, 10 oz. of calf's liver into slices, 
 and fry half these in butter. When fried, pound 
 it in a mortar, with a few capers, a few pine seeds, 
 allspice, and sugar; then strain, and add the juice of 
 a lemon, and a little pepper, salt, and vinegar. Put 
 the whole in a hot-water bath, or near the fire, but 
 not on it. Flour the rest of the sliced liver, and fry- 
 in fresh butter. When fried, place the slices on a 
 plate, and pour over them the first part reduced to a 
 thick sauce. This will be found to be delicious. To 
 make it more palatable still, roll each slice of liver 
 round a piece of bacon and a slice of truffle, and tie 
 or skewer the roll together. This is easy to do in 
 Italy, where truffles are almost as common as mush- 
 rooms. In Er.gland only the wealthy few can in- 
 dulge in truffles and those may not care to eat fried 
 liver, even for breakfast. Stuffed with truffles, how- 
 ever, it is not unfit for Royal stomachs." FRITTO 
 MISTO (2) "This fry is an odd medley, and is com- 
 posed of the following ingredients, which must all 
 be dipped into batter, fried in lard, and served in the 
 same dish: Ram's kidneys, which have been soaked 
 in salt water, pieces of bread, tendons of veal, calf's 
 brains, svveatbreads, rice croquettes, pieces of cauli- 
 flower, egg-plant, anchovies, and artichokes." FKIT- 
 TO MISTO (j) The ingredients of the mixed fry are 
 varied with the seasons or according to taste. This 
 one has for its components: lamb fries, sweetbreads 
 and egg-plant, bread -crumbed and fried; calf's 
 brains, calf's liver and cauliflower dipped in batter 
 and fried; all dished together with fried parsley and 
 lemons. COTEI.ETTE MILANAISE "In an Italian 
 restaurant we recently came across a table specialty 
 which may be recommended as an appetizing entree. 
 We refer to cotelelie Milatiaise with curry sauce. 
 The ordinary cotelette Mi/anaise, consisting only of 
 a veal-chop or cutlets encrusted with bread-crumbs 
 and egg, with the traditional quarter of a lemon to 
 stimulate the palate, is a common dish enough, but 
 the addition of curry sauce gives it a distinct excel- 
 lence." ITALIAN DISHES Le Ket-tanrant Ilalien 
 makes a specialty of Italian dishes, and on its carte 
 figure prominently the names of Lasagne, Rariol , 
 Tagliarini, Spaghetti and Risotto, besides the fam- 
 ous timbales of Milan, and the filling, if not partic- 
 ularly tasty, polenta, a kind of porridge made of 
 maize-flour. POLENTA Is also made of chestnut- 
 flour. "The food made of the chestnut which is 
 most in favor is the/o/*>/a. This is made by sim- 
 ply boiling the chestnut-flour 10 or 15 minutes with 
 a little salt to flavor it, taking care to keep it con- 
 stantly stirred. This is eaten with cream, and is said 
 to be very healthy and nutritious. " NECCI "The 
 food called Need is composed of chestnut-flour 
 formed into a cake, and is made by first mixing the 
 flour with cold water, and then making cakes piled 
 one upon another and separated by chestnut-leaves 
 
 ITA 
 
 moistened with water. The whole mass is then 
 cooked over a hot fire, and the cakes are taken off 
 one by one when the leaves are almost burned, and 
 are then eaten with cream and butter. ZABBAGLIONE- 
 Is the name of an Italian sweet entretnet to be had in 
 perfectiou at the Hotel d'ltalie. It is composed of 
 whipped yolk of egg sweetened, and mixed with 
 'Capri' or some other white wine, and is served in a 
 frothy mixture in cups." POLPETTI Croquettes of 
 meat of any kind mixed with grated cheese stirred 
 over the fire with a thick sauce and seasonings, rolled 
 and shaped when cold; breaded and fried. ITALIAN 
 MERINGUE Boiled icing, made of i Ib. sugar boiled 
 to the crack and 6 whites whipped very firm stirred 
 in; used to ice cakes and to dry hake as "kisses," 
 also to /nix in frozen punch for punches a la Romaine. 
 ITALIAN PASTES Those well known even-where 
 are macaroni and vermicelli; others are tagliarini, 
 spaghetti, fidelini, lasagnes, and various small kinds 
 and shapes; they are all essentially of the same sub- 
 stance, but of different qualities, some being made 
 of the best wheat-flour, some with a proportion of 
 corn-flour. ITALIAN SOUPS Generally those soups 
 which contain or are served with some form of these 
 pastes, and with grated cheese handed around sep- 
 arately. ITALIAN RAVIOLIS Little turnovers made 
 of balls of chicken forcemeat size of a grape, inclosed 
 in nouilles paste; poached in water, placed in a dish 
 with grated parmesan and sauce; served on same 
 method as a ffarbure, with soup in another tureen, 
 to be taken up and eaten with the soup. SARDINIAN 
 RAVIOLIS Instead of chicken forcemeat they are 
 filled with a paste made of spinach, eggs, bread- 
 crumbs, cheese, and butter. LASAGNES A LA MI- 
 LANAISE Lasagnes boiled, mixed in a sauce or ra- 
 gout of gravy, cheese, mushrooms, truffles, tomato 
 sauce, etc. NoQUES-Italian- paste dumplings; equiv- 
 alent to the German kldse made of equal weights of 
 eggs, butter, and flour worked together, dropped by 
 spoonfuls in boiling water; eaten with grated cheese 
 and butter, or with soup, or finished as macaroni, 
 etc., in the oven. AGNOLOTTIS Another variety of 
 rai'iol x, made the same except the filling is of minced 
 cooked beef with cheese and fried onion; served 
 aside with soup, or in cheese, sauce and butter baked. 
 GNOCCHIS Paste balls like noques, but differently 
 made; of 5 oz. flour in % pt. boiling water, table- 
 spoonful butter, i oz. cheese, 3 eggs; similar to 
 cheese fritters; poached, finished like macaroni and 
 cheese ; baked. Another variety has pounded chicken 
 meat mixed in the paste. TIMBALE A LA MILANAISE- 
 A kind of macaroni raised-pie; the macaroni boiled, 
 mixed w.ilh truffles, mushrooms, red tongue, and 
 cream sauce; baked in a mould lined with short paste; 
 turned out whole. RISOTTO PIEMONTAISE Rice 
 fried raw with onion in butter; boiled in broth suf- 
 ficient, with butter and cheese; served aside with 
 soup. HISOTTO X APOI.ITAINE Rice as above, with 
 tomato sau u, butter, cheese, mushrooms, etc. ; served 
 alone or with soup. ITALIAN PYRAMID Rings of 
 puff -pa^te of decreasing sizes baked separately, piled
 
 350 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 ITA 
 
 on each other with marmalade spread betwen ; orna- 
 mented. ITALIAN CREAM Yellow cream-custard 
 strongly flavored with cinnamon, with \vhipped 
 cream added, and gelatine about i oz. to each quart 
 to set it in a mould. ITALIAN PUDDING A deep 
 dish lined with puff-paste, layer of half-cooked 
 slices of apples on the bottom; sugar and wine; 
 bread-custard to fill up; baked. (See Flan.) ITAL- 
 IAN STEAMED PUDDING Panada of bread-crumbs 
 in boiling milk mixed with sugar, yolks, va- 
 nilla, raisins, whipped whites; it rises like a souffl 
 when steamed; to be served immediately, with saba- 
 yon (zabbaglione'). OTHER ITALIAN DISHES Ices, 
 salads, and sauces, may be found in great numbers 
 in all cookbook directions; they may be known by 
 the appellations Af edicts (Catherine de Medicis in- 
 troduced Italian cookery into France), Napolitaine 
 Romaine, Sicilienue, and all such allusions to Italian 
 cities. ITALIAN ANTE-PASTO Signifies the entire 
 list of appetizers or cold liors d'tcuvres. See also 
 Ices, Granito, Grissini Bread, Macaroni. 
 
 ITALIAN WAREHOUSE "The Italian ware- 
 house, first established in London in the reign of 
 Charles II, is an institution peculiar to the British 
 Metropolis. In the last century, when a gentleman 
 went to Italy, he generally resided there for at least 
 six months. \Vhen he returned and settled down in 
 his grand town mansion, he was not satisfied with 
 having a French cook; he sighed for the macaroni 
 and vermicelli, the Parmesan cheese, the polenta, the 
 morta-della di Bologna, the Lacrima Christi, and 
 the chianti, and especially the pure olive-oil of Flo- 
 rence and Lucca. It was to supply his lordship or 
 his honor with such articles that the Italian ware- 
 houses were founded and grew apace. The Italian 
 warehousemen of the past, however, dealt in other 
 commodities besides wine and oil, macaroni and 
 cheese. They were as useful to my lady as to my 
 lord; they imported from Italy lute-strings a cor- 
 ruption of lustri>iia.n& paduasoys; the rich cut vel- 
 vets of Genoa; the stiff black silks and splendid lace 
 -a legacy from the Spanish domination-from Milan, 
 with beads from Venice, and gloves and coral from 
 Naples." The Italian warehouse may be found in 
 most of the large cities of the United States, and 
 there the steward finds his foreign cheeses and all 
 such specialties as are raised above the ordinary 
 public demand by their prices. 
 
 ITALIENNE SAUCE Brown or white sauce 
 with wine, shallots, mushrooms, etc. (See Sauces.) 
 
 J. 
 
 JACKET KETTLES Double-bottomed kettles 
 or boilers, steam from the engine-boiler is let into 
 the space between the bottoms and rapid boiling is 
 the result. Used for soup stock boilers, ham boilers, 
 vegetable boilers and for laundry purposes.. 
 
 JAM Fruit stewed down with sugar; applied 
 to mashed fruit. The fruit stewed down without 
 breaking up the shape is called preserves. All 
 
 fruits are reduced to jam except the orange which 
 has a name to itself; orange jam is called marmalade. 
 JAM TARTLETS (/)-Patty pans lined with puff- 
 paste, a spoonful of jam in each; baked. (2-)Patty 
 cases or vol au vents, cut out of puff-paste with a 
 center to be taken out and the vacancy filled with jam 
 after baking. JAM ROLY-POLY A pudding made of 
 a sheet of short paste or biscuit- dough spread over 
 with jam, rolled up long, steamed or boiled in a 
 cloth. IMITATION JAM "Recently there appared a 
 cutting from an American paper explaining what a 
 certain American firm understood by blackberry jam ! 
 There is a company here that runs them close in the 
 matter of sharpness. You know that moss or dried 
 grass, with which Chinese exporters pack up their 
 fragile wares. It is glutinous when boiled, and 
 costs nothing. Your Chinese importer will give it 
 to you if you will cart it off his premises. Add glu- 
 cose, flavoring essence, and little dye, and there you 
 are, with first-rate raspberry jam; prime cost, one 
 centime a pot, to be retailed at sixpence a pound." 
 SOME GENUINE JAM The scarcity of raspberries 
 in the fruiterers' shops and on the huckster's bar- 
 rows is accounted for by the insatiable demand of 
 the jam manufacturers, who buy all they can get of 
 this delicious fruit. In the Borough market recent- 
 ly Messrs of Stratford, took a "parcel" of 
 
 20 tons at $95 per ton. 
 
 JAMBALAYA Southern or Creole dish made in 
 two or three different ways. (/)-Fried chicken 
 cooked and placed in a dish is bordered with rice 
 stewed with tomatoes, onion, butter, spoonful of 
 sugar, salt and pepper, till the rice is tender and all 
 stiff enough for a spoon to stand in it. About the 
 same is Rissoto with chicken. (See Ital an cookery.) 
 (2)-American planter's way. Ham cut in dice, light- 
 ly fried with butter and onion ; rice and water added 
 and red pepper, and all stewed together till i Ice is 
 done and dry, the pieces of ham being of course 
 mingled in the rice. (j)-Florida Spanish. Pieces 
 of fish, ham, onion, fried together; tomatoes, water 
 and seasonings added; rice boiled in it sufficient to 
 nearly dry it up. 
 
 JAMBON (Fr.) Ham. JAMBON DE PORC Pork 
 ham. JAMBON D' OURS Bear ham. 
 
 JAMBON, SAUCE Brown sauce with shred 
 ham, shallots, butter, wine, cayenne. 
 
 JAPANESE COOKERY The natives eat little 
 flesh. Only since the advent of foreigners have 
 they learned to eat any at all. Their sustenance is 
 drawn mostly from rice, sweet potatoes, fish and a 
 few vegetables, such as a great radish called daikan. 
 The lesser articles are barley, wheat, green corn, 
 oranges, grapes, figs and persimmons. They 
 make a soup of rice, small pieces of dough, a little 
 sea-weed, some snails and sharks' fins. METHOD 
 OF FRYING In the country towns tell them 
 to cook you a chicken; you hear a squawking 
 in the house, and in just five minutes the bird is be- 
 fore you, all cooked. It is done in this wise: Upon
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 351 
 
 JAP 
 
 a charcoal fire are placed thin copper pans, which 
 are almost instantly heated to a white heat; oil is 
 dropped in, the chicken on top, and it is done. THE 
 JAPANESE MISOSHIRU In the eating-houses of 
 Tokio, if he can obtain the concession of a spoon 
 instead of being obliged to drink his soup out of the 
 bowl like tea, as the natives do, the adventurous 
 foreigner will find that he has in the first dish set 
 before him a savory compound called misoshirn. 
 This is made from miso, a fermented mixture of soy, 
 beans, wheat, and salt. It has a gamey flavor all 
 its own. He will then attack with pleasure or sur- 
 prise the many little plats on his tray, turning for 
 relief from the sweetened ivliite beans, mixed with 
 Ka~jjatake, a kind of mushroom grown in the shad- 
 ows of rocky boulders, and the delicious lobster 
 pudding or cold omelet and other trifles included 
 under the head of Kuchitori, to the Hachimono, 
 which may happen to be a piece of sole stewed in 
 sov, or a block of salmon with lobster and shredded 
 cucumber. Then for a change he may, with the 
 pair of wooden chop-sticks which are laid before 
 him on a bamboo tray, divert himself with trying 
 to pick out of a small china cup, made without a 
 handle, the brown soy-colored beans and strips of 
 Kikurage, or ear-shaped mushrooms. Boiled rice 
 is served in a separate bowl. Another substantial 
 dish, Wanmori, consists of meat or fish and vege- 
 tables, possibly, for instance, a piece of fresh 
 salmon and a slice of vegetable marrow with 
 pieces of soaked Fit, a kind of biscuit made 
 from the glutinous part of wheat flour. The 
 gravy in which these pieces de resistance are 
 floating is thickened with a transparent, starchy 
 substance, obtained from the root of a climbing 
 plant (Pueraria Thunbergiana), called by the Japan- 
 ese Kuzu. For salad there are thin slices of cu- 
 cumber flavored with scraped shreds of dried bonito, 
 a fish much in favor on the Pacific coasts, the cu- 
 cumber being dressed with vinegar and sugar, but 
 without oil. One other relish must be noticed, the 
 sliced root of the burdock salted and preserved in 
 miso. A sweet kind of sake, described as Japanese 
 wine, is the proper beverage at the meal. After 
 dinner Japanese green tea may be ordered, or, upon 
 special application, a cup of fragrant cherry-flower 
 tea. To prepare this drink half a dozen dried blos- 
 soms and buds of the cherry flower are placed, with 
 a pinch of salt, in a tea-cup, and hot, but not boil- 
 ing, water poured on them. The infusion is slightly 
 and agreeably aromatic. 
 
 JAPANESE CROSNES See Crosnes. " Cros- 
 nes Japonaise, the new vegetables, are now to be 
 seen and bought in every green-grocer's and deli- 
 cacy-warehouse in Paris, and seem to be very pop- 
 ular. The growers supply the trade with printed 
 cards giving very full instructions as to the different 
 ways of cooking the vegetables." 
 
 JAPANESE PLUM A variety of plum recently 
 acclimatized in Florida and suited to the climate. 
 'It is eaten raw, and made into preserves. 
 
 JEL 
 
 JAPANESE PERSIMMON A newly intro- 
 duced fruit of the southern Gulf states and Cali- 
 fornia. It is in apperance much like a tomato. It 
 must be perfectly ripe when picked, otherwise the 
 flavor is not agreeable; this renders it unsuitable to 
 ship to distant markets. It can be dried, however, 
 like a fig, which it resembles in its dried state, and 
 has a very meaty, pleasant taste. 
 
 JAPANESE SALAD Salade Japonaise. See 
 Salads, 
 
 JAPAN PEA A prolific sort of field pea culti- 
 vated in the western states. 
 
 JAPANESE PAPER NAPKINS Paper nap- 
 kins, either plain or bordered or figured, can be 
 bought at the notion stores at prices ranging from 
 50 cents to $1.00 per 100. They are useful for pic- 
 nic and festival purposes, for large catering affairs 
 and out-door spreads. At one of the large catering 
 undertakings mentioned in the third division of this 
 book the contractors provided 2,000 linen napkins; 
 a needless expense, for they had to resort to paper 
 napkins after all on account of the want of time for 
 laundrying the first supply. 
 
 JARDINIER (Fr.) Gardener. 
 
 JARDINIF.RE (Fr.) Mixed vegetables; a gar- 
 den stand for plants or flowers. SALADE JARDI- 
 NIERE Salad of mixed vegetables. CONSOMME A 
 LA JARDINIERE Clear soup with various vegetab- 
 les cut into small fancy shapes. GARNISH A LA 
 JARDINIERE Carrots and turnips cut in shapes like 
 large peas, with a scoop made for the purpose, 
 string beans, cauliflower, green peas, asparagus 
 tops or any vegetables, all of corresponding small 
 size, cooked in seasoned broth, then tossed in glaze 
 or meat gravy. DISHES A LA JARDINIERE All 
 dishes of meat which are served up with the jardi- 
 niere garnish around them or in the center. 
 
 JARDINIERE CUTTERS There are small 
 machines to be bought which rapidly stamp out 
 patterns from slices of vegetables for jardiniere 
 garnish and soups. 
 
 JAUiSTE MANGE Like blanc-mange, but made 
 yellow with yolk of egg or saffron ; a custard set 
 with gelatine. 
 
 JELLY Table jellies are made of gelatine, sugar, 
 flavorings, and either water and fruit juice or water 
 and wine. Rule: i qt. water or juice, i% oz. gela- 
 tine, 2 lemons, 8 oz. sugar, all boiled together, then 
 strained. By adding white of eggs before boiling 
 it can be made brilliantly clear and can be colored 
 to any desired tint. Set in moulds in a cold place 
 until firm and solid, then turned out on a dish cov - 
 ered with a folded napkin. GELEE DE PRAISES 
 Strawberry jelly colored red with whole strawber- 
 ries in it. GELEE DE MURES SAUVAGES A LA 
 CREME A border mould of blackberry -jelly, with 
 whipped cream in the center. GELEE A L'AXANAS 
 Pineapple jelly, with pieces of pineapple in it. 
 GELEE AU Jus DE GRENADES Pomegranate jelly.
 
 352 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 JEL 
 
 GELEE A LA MACEDOINE DE FRUITS Maraschino 
 flavored jelly with whole fruits in it. GELEE A LA 
 CHARTREUSE-Jelly flavored with chartreuse liqueur. 
 GELEE DE DANTZIC AUX PRAISES Cherry- brant! y 
 jelly with whole strawberries. GELEE DE MARAS- 
 QUIN AUX ABRICOTS Maraschino jelly with 
 halves of apricots in it. GELEE AU CURACAO 
 Curacao jelly. GELEE A LA PANACHEE A mould 
 of two or more colors of jelly in layers; ribbon jelly. 
 GELEE AUX VIOLETTES PRINTANIERES Jelly fla- 
 vored with an infusion of spring violet-flowers in 
 syrup; orange -flowers are used the same way. 
 GELEE A LA BACCHANTE Green jelly made with 
 the juice of green grapes and spinach, sugar and 
 champagne. GELEE A LA RUSSE Jelly whipped to 
 a froth while cooling on ice, then moulded. GELEE 
 MOUSSEUSE A L'EAU DE VIE Whipped jelly with 
 brandy. GELEE FOUETTEE AUX FRUIT* Whipped 
 jelly with maraschino and small fruits. WINE JELLY 
 WITH WHIPPED CREAM A very acceptable com- 
 bination of gelatine jelly made with one-third sherry 
 or any good wine; served in saucer of whipped 
 cream, or in a whole mould with whipped cream 
 
 JELLY MOULD, 
 
 And for puddings, aspics, creams, or ices. 
 
 around it. BORDER JELLIES Border moulds are 
 made; the outer rim to be filled with jelly and turned 
 out when set, the well in the center of the jelly filled 
 with whipped cream and perhaps strawberries and 
 other such additions. JELLY WITH ICE CREAM 
 Same plan as with whipped cream and best in hot 
 weather. GELEES VARIEES All jellies named for 
 some fruit or liqueur are either made with a propor- 
 tion of the juice of the fruit, or with pieces or slices 
 set around the mould; or are flavored' with the 
 liqueurs, as benedictine, kummel, anisette, kirsch- 
 wasser, etc. GELEE A LA PARisiENNE-Fancy form ; 
 specialty. Two jellies, one colored pink and flavored 
 with strawberry; other uncolored, flavored with 
 kirschwasser; both portions whipped on ice, and be- 
 fore set filled into the mould in alternate layers or 
 portions; turned out on ornamental stand of candy. 
 GLASSES OF CHAMPAGNE Fancy form; specialty. 
 Clear, bright jelly filled in glasses in liquid state, 
 whipped jelly on top; made cold. GLASSES OF ALE- 
 Fancy form ; specialty. Clear, brown jelly vanilla- 
 flavored, filled in slender ale-glasses in liquid state, 
 more jelly whipped to foam and piled on top. 
 
 JEL 
 
 SOUFFLE JELLIES Same plan as preceding, but red 
 wine- jelly set solid an inch deep in a pan; foam of 
 whipped jelly and white of egg flavored with maras- 
 chino spread an inch deep on top when the first is set; 
 all made very cold, cut out in blocks and served in 
 glass-plates. INDIVIDUAL jELLiEs-There are moulds 
 of all sorts and patterns to set jellies in, one mould 
 to be served to each person. TRI-COLORED JEI.LIES- 
 Set in small moulds, three kinds and colors of jelly 
 or two je.lies and one blanc mange or janne miuige; 
 taken out of the moulds, cut in three downwards, 
 the sections wetted with melted jelly, replaced in the 
 moulds, one section of each color in each mould. 
 (See Syllabub, Aspic, Pain de Peches.) 
 
 JELLIES, FRUIT The other class are the fruit- 
 jellies, made and eaten as preserves. Rule: One 
 pound sugar to each pint of expressed fruit- juice, 
 boiled together till the fruit sets as jelly, when im- 
 mersed in cold water or set on ice to try. Used to 
 eat with meat, as currant-jelly with mutton and ven- 
 ison, cranberry-jelly with turkey, and to spread in 
 jelly-cakes, fill tarts, etc. 
 
 JELLIES, IMITATIOX-Made of (/) i pt. water, 
 J^ oz. pulverized alum, boiled a minute or two, 4 Ibs. 
 white sugar, boiled a short time, strained, colored 
 variously, flavored with oils or essences to imitate 
 fruit jellies. (2) 3% Ibs. commonest gelatine in 2^ 
 gals, water with 30 Ibs. sugar, boiled until gelatine 
 is all dissolved, colored as desired, % oz. tartaric 
 acid iidt'ed, taken from the fire, dissolved, flavored, 
 allowed to get cold in pails or glasses Makes 50 Ibs. 
 Glucose also is largely used in making bogus jellies, 
 and the jams and preserves of the same class are 
 made fruity with shredded turnips boiled in pine- 
 apple-flavored glucose. "A year or two since a man 
 found himself with a large crop of red currants, 
 and he manufactured them into "jam," or "jelly," 
 using the best of sugar, and producing a most ex- 
 cellent article. He found the hotels supplied with a 
 heap, impure article, manufactured from glucose 
 and acids and colored to resemble somewhat in color 
 and taste currant jelly, which could be procured at 
 retail even lower tban he could afford his at whole- 
 sale. The result was the enterprising man had a 
 large quantity left on hand. But we haven't heard 
 of his manufacturing any more 'pure currant jelly' 
 for market. A few years since a gentleman in Union 
 village started the manufacture of apple-jelly, and 
 he produced a very pure and delicious article, which 
 should have commanded a ready sale at hotels-', 
 bakeries and in families, for the table and for pies, 
 tarts, etc. But the business did not prosper, we 
 think. At all events it was suspended. An in- 
 ferior article, made up largely of adulterations, 
 which 'answered the purpose,' took the trade." BO- 
 GUS JELLIES An American physician toils how the 
 cheap jellies which some bakers put into their tarts 
 and jelly cakes are made, as follows: Take 4 qts. 
 water and y, Ib. alum; boil 2 minutes, add 32 Ibs. of 
 white sugar; boil 5 minutes longer, strain while it 
 is warm (and the hotter it is strained the easier >
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 353 
 
 JEL 
 
 through a coarse towel; when nearly cold, add 2 ozs. 
 of acetic acid, and % Ib. of real currant jelly- 
 When cool, pack it in tumblers. If you de- 
 sire a vanilla jelly, add in place of currant jam four 
 25 -cent bottles of extract of vanilla, and stir when 
 nearly cold. If you desire strawberry jam, prepare 
 the alum and sugar as before, and add l /z pt. of 
 essence of strawberry. Or if lemon is desired, add 
 essence of lemon. You can make what you like with 
 these proportions of alum and sugar. " This is th 
 way to make the grocers' jelly and jam that are 
 placed in the confectioneries and bakeries." 
 
 JELLY CAKE Two, three or more thin sheets 
 of genoise or pound or other cake spread with jelly 
 and placed one upon another. JELLY SLICES 
 Several fancy forms of sliced jelly cake iced or or- 
 namented. JELLY PIE, SAVORY Deep dish with 
 hard boiled eggs in bottom and slices of fowl, etc., 
 seasoned with crust on top, filled with meat jelly ; 
 eaten cold. JELLY PIE, SWEET Fruit jelly and 
 custard mixed together; baked in a crust. JELLY 
 PUDDING A bread custard or corn-starch custard 
 baked, spread over with jelly, and meringued; same 
 as queen pudding and Oswego pudding. JELLY 
 ROLL Thin sheets of sponge cake spread with jelly, 
 rolled up, wetted with syrup, rolled in sugar. 
 
 JERSEY PUDDING Boiled pudding, made of 
 2 oz. ground rice, i oz. flour, 2 oz sugar, 4 oz. butter; 
 all worked together; 2 oz. chopped raisins, grated 
 lemon-rind, 3 eggs, 2 spoons milk; well mixed; 
 boiled in a mould 3 hours; lemon sauce, 
 
 JERSEY WONDERS, OR CAKES Crullers; 
 a rich and crisp sort of doughnuts not made with 
 yeast, not very light; in the form of strips tied up in 
 a knot made of (/) One pound sugar, % Ib. butter, 6 
 eggs, % pt. milk, 2 teaspoons baking powder, flour 
 to make dough of it; (2) Another less rich, of 6 oz. 
 sugar, 6 oz. butter, Seggs, a glass of brandy, flavor- 
 ing extracts, 2 Ibs. flour; made into dough; cut in 
 strips, or shapes, or rings; fried in hot lard. 
 
 JEWISH COOKERY While the Jews do not 
 excel in high-class cookery, perhaps on account of 
 their restrictions in regard to materials, what they 
 have is essentially good and of a wholesome char- 
 acter. The religion of the Jews provides that its 
 followers shall observe certain customs, amongst 
 which those relating to foods are particularly string- 
 ent and have evidently been drawn up with extreme 
 care. Diseased materials, meals which cannot be 
 easily digested, or which are liable to be diseased, 
 such as veal and pork, are discountenanced. The 
 meat must moreover be thoroughly cleansed, and 
 ' fish is strongly recommended as an adjunct to a gen- 
 erous feast of vegetables and fruit. At least once a 
 year the subject of Jewish cookery and its peculiar 
 restrictions is brought to the consideration of the 
 stewards or caterers of the generality of hotels on 
 the approach of the Jewish Feast of the Passover, 
 which partakes of the nature of a fast as well as a 
 feast, or a fast before the feast, on account of the re- 
 
 JEW 
 
 striction in the case of the bread and pastry which 
 may be eaten at that time, and it becomes embar- 
 rassing when perhaps a Jewish rabbi and members 
 of his congregation live in the hotel if their partic- 
 ular requirements at that season cannot be provided 
 for want of the requisite knowledge. Passover- 
 week, the great feast held by the Jews all over the 
 world to commemorate their deliverance from the 
 land of bondage 5>ooo years ago, occurs in the spring, 
 near the time of the Christian Easter, generally be- 
 fore it. The law of Moses forbids them to do any 
 servile work during that week. The reform Jews 
 hold high festival only on the first and last days; 
 orthodox Jews observe four days. On the other 
 days servile work may be done; but all Jews 
 must abstain from eating leavened bread. Pastry 
 containing flour is denied them, but they substitute 
 it with potato meal, and they are prohibited from 
 drinking malt liquors or spirits which are made 
 from grain. On the eve of the passover they hold 
 solemn religious services, after this comes the great 
 feast, and such is the lavishness of the Jews at this 
 season they lay their tables with all the delicacies 
 their religion allows them; and all Jews, whether 
 mas.ter or servant, rich employer or poor menial, 
 sit at the same table and pai take of the same fare. 
 This is to remind them that in Egypt they were all 
 slaves and equal. EMBLEMATIC BASIN Among 
 other curious observances one consists in the head 
 of the family having set before him a dish contain- 
 ing a roasted shankbone of a lamb, a large stick of 
 horse-radish with the top on, a bunch of chervil, 
 mustard and cress, a roasted egg, almonds, cinna- 
 mon, raisins, smashed up together and pulverized 
 in a species of mortar. This is an important rite. 
 The shank of the lamb symbolizes the Passover 
 lamb; the roasted egg commemorates the festival 
 egg; the bitter herbs recall the bitter lives of the 
 Israelites in Egypt; and the bruised rasins, almonds 
 and wine represent the mortar which their ancestors 
 used in making bricks for the Pharaohs. JEWISH 
 BUTCHER'S MEAT An extra supply of kosher meat 
 is required at the Passover season, and the Jewish 
 butchers' shops look like our butchers' shops at 
 Christmas, THE SHOCHET The man who kills 
 the animals is called a shochet / he puts his seal on 
 every animal that is kosher (pure), but if the least 
 spot or blemish is discovered although it does not 
 in the least detract from the quality of the meat 
 the official seal is withheld, and the "unclean" ar- 
 ticles must be consumed by Gentiles. As is known 
 generally, the Jews are forbidden to use the blood 
 of any meat, .and very particular methods are em- 
 ployed at the slaughtering of kosher animals to pre- 
 vent any blood remaining in the carcase. Shell-fish 
 were once forbidden to the Jews; pork is forbidden 
 alike to Jew and Mohammedan. PASSOVER Soup- 
 Beef soup with vegetables and motsa balls, like 
 quenelles, noques, or klose. Made or 4 Ibs. beef 
 and a shin bone and calf's foot, carrots, turnips, 
 celery, fried onions, sweet herbs, pepper, salt, sim.
 
 854 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 JEW 
 
 mered S hours, strained, freed from fat. MOTSA 
 BALLS Cracker dust S oz., suet 2 oz., eggs 4, salt, 
 pepper, ginger, nutmeg. Worked up to a paste, 
 made in halls, boiled in the soup. JEWISH STEWED 
 FISH Served cold. Sliced onions are simmered 
 till done in water, with butter, pepper and salt, 
 pieces of fish on top of the onions, covered and 
 stewed till done. Liquor strained off, juice of 2 
 lemons, and 3 beaten yolks mixed in, and heated till 
 thickened custard-like without quite boiling; poured 
 over the fish in a dish; parsley. JEWISH FRIED 
 FISH One of the great delicacies of the Je\vi-h 
 festival season is fried fish. Where the Jewish com- 
 munity is sufficiently numerous to support a fried 
 fish shop but little fish is cooked in private houses, 
 but these shops supply all, making a specialty of 
 the trade of frying, like the Roman fry-shops or 
 the Parisian rotisieries, or meat roasters for the pub- 
 lic. One such shop in Middlesex street, London, 
 has been established over 200 years. Salmon, hali- 
 but and soles are the kinds of fish preferred, and 
 enormous quantities are sold. From these fry-shops 
 the cooked fish is sent to the residences of the 
 wealthy Jews, and not only that, but to the hospitals 
 for Jewish patients and to the prisons for Jewish de- 
 linquents. How IT is COOKED After being cut 
 into pieces, the fish is dropped in a basinful of bat- 
 tered eggs, then coated with motsa meal made of 
 crushed Passover cake and then fried in salad oil. 
 This system of cooking in oil is not an original habit 
 of the Jews. They carried it with them from Spain 
 after the Inquisition. They seldom eat fried fish hot, 
 they prefer it cold. JEWISH SMOKED MEAT Is pre- 
 pared by the Jewish butchers and can be bought of 
 them. Is cooked by parboiling, then taking up, 
 skimming the liquor and cooling it, and putting 
 back the meat and gently steaming till quite tender; 
 served with vegetables. CHORISSA Jewish sau- 
 sage; is prepared by the Jewish butchers; is boiled 
 and braised, served with rice. PASSOVER FRIT- 
 TERS Motsa meal (cracker dust) eggs and little su- 
 gar worked to a stiff batter, fried by spoonfuls in 
 hot oil. Eaten with syrup or sugar. JEWISH AP- 
 PLE FRITTERS Same as the preceding with chop- 
 ped apples in the batter. JEWISH ALMOND PUD- 
 DING Sort of almond souffle, made of i Ib. almonds 
 crushed, 2 oz. bitter almonds, i Ib. powdered sugar, 
 14 eggs, 6 yolks more, 3 tablespoons orange flower 
 water. The eggs, water and sugar beaten together 
 20 minutes, same as sponge cake, the powdered al- 
 monds added instead of the flour which would be in 
 sponge cake; baked. JEWISH MOTSA PUDDING 
 About a pound of Passover cakes (water crackers) 
 soaked in water, squeezed, made up into a plum 
 pudding with the usual fruit and suet, either boiled 
 or baked. PASSOVER ROCK CAKES Made of % Ib. 
 butter, % Ib. sugar, % Ib. each .Ifotsa meal (meal of 
 crushed water-crackers) and currants, 2 oz. ground 
 almonds, 4 eggs. Worked up to cake dough with 
 more meal if necessary; rough lumps like rocks 
 dropped on pans, stuck over with blanched almonds; 
 
 JOH 
 
 baked. JEWISH PASSOVER CAKE OR MOTSA There 
 is not much taste in a Passover cake, huge pvra- 
 inids of which are piled up in the Jewish bakers' 
 and grocers' shops. There is in Amsterdam a fac- 
 torv engaged in the production on a large scale of 
 passover or unleavened bread. Although the con- 
 sumption does not last more than a week, the fac 
 tory is busy from the end of November or the be- 
 ginning of December till Eastertide. A large por- 
 tion of the goods is exported to other countries. 
 The motsa consists of a large round thin cake about 
 15 inches in diameter, made simply out of flour and 
 water well kneaded, and baked to crispness; it must 
 not contain yeast, powder, shortening, nor any rais- 
 ing ingredient. There are two varieties; the mot fas 
 are larger than pancakes, and thin as wafers. Great 
 precaution is taken to obtain the proper sort of flour. 
 The authorities of the different synagogues com- 
 bine on this occasion, get the flour especially ground, 
 and license men to sell it. The price is specially 
 put in order to have a surplus for the poor. THE 
 MITZVEHS Are thicker. Passover cakeV eaten 
 on the first two nights of the festival. Thev are 
 thick enough to be split open and toasted, or soaked 
 in milk and fried. MOTSA MEAL-It will be observed 
 that the use of motsa meal or crushed almonds in anv 
 sort of cake or pudding is a substitution for flour 
 which is forbidden to be used in pastry at the Pass 
 over season; otherwise the pastries are not peculiar 
 or special. The thin motsas are hard water-crackers 
 in effect, and to make the meal they are rolled to dust 
 and sifted. PASSOVER DRINKS A special depart- 
 ment is set apart by Jewish bar-keepers for Passover 
 drinks, which, as has been stated, must not consist 
 of anything made from grain the 'corn' of the bible 
 meaning all kinds of grain. 
 
 JOHX DORY JEAN DORE or SAINT PIERRE 
 
 j A sea-fish common in French :.nd English markets, 
 
 of singular appearance and excellent quality. "On 
 
 the Brittany coast, crabs, dorys, mullets, and fifty 
 
 other varieties are plentiful. The dory is here called 
 
 JOHX DORY, JAUNE DORE, OR SAINT PIEKRE. 
 
 la bete du ban dieti, it being a superstition that it was 
 ! the first thing in the waters under the earth that was 
 ; created, the round black marks on the sides being 
 j supposed to be the traces of the Creator's fingers." 
 j JEAN DORE A LA CREMERIERE Boiled in milk and 
 ' water; served with sauce of cream, butter and lemon
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 355 
 
 JOH 
 
 juice. JEAN DORE EN MATELOTE MARiNiERE-Dory 
 baked, and served with oyster sauce. JEAN DORE A 
 LA BATELI ERE Dory boiled; served with button- 
 onions, mushrooms and essence of anchovy in white 
 sauce. JEAN DORE A LA PUREE DE CREVETTES 
 Dory cut up and stewed ; served in a puree of shrimps 
 with butter and Bechamel sauce. DORY BOILED 
 The fins are cut off, the fish placed in a fish kettle 
 with 3 oz. salt to 1 1 gl. water; the water brought to a 
 boil gradually and simmered till the fish is done; 
 served with caper sauce. The name is said to be a 
 corruption of "Jamie, yellow. Dore is golden. 
 
 JOHXXY CAKE American common name for 
 any sort of plain corn -bread; originally a cake of 
 corn -meal, salt and water baked on a board setup 
 before an open fire. 
 
 JOLIE FILLE SAUCE (Fr.)-Fair maid's sauce. 
 
 White chicken-sauce with hard-boiled yolks, bread- 
 crumbs, butter, and parsley. 
 
 JORDAX ALMONDS Best quality of table- 
 almonds. 
 
 JUBILEE PUDDIXG (/) A border-mould of 
 claret jelly, center filled with whipped cream mixed 
 with cut candied fruits and preserved ginger. (2) A 
 hot vermicelli-pudding made like a bread-custard 
 and baked ; strawberry jam and cream spread on top, 
 and meringued over like queen pudding. 
 
 JUMBLES Small ring-cakes, various qualities; 
 best made of i Ib. sugar, % Ib. butter, S eggs, lemon 
 flavor, flour to make soft dough; forced through a 
 star-tube in rings on paper; baked. 
 
 JUNKET English dish of cream and milk curd- 
 led with rennet and flavored with brandy; eaten 
 with short-cake. The cream is whipped and spread 
 on top of the curd. 
 
 K. 
 
 KALE Sea-kale, a kind of cabbage-greens, like 
 cabbage in taste, like endive in appearance; obtain- 
 able early in spring when other vegetables are 
 scarce; should be partially blanched by the garden- 
 ers by being grown under cover, as the whitest is 
 the best and tenderest. Cooked like spinach and 
 other greens. 
 
 KABOBS OR KEBOBS Meat in slices cooked 
 on skewers. It is English or Anglo -Indian. The 
 method is followed extensively in this country, but 
 the word is not used; we call kebobs brocliettes. 
 Kebobs or brochettes of meat of any kind have ei- 
 ther two kinds of meat or something between the 
 meat, as a slice of liver and bacon alternately is 
 kebobed liver, slices of pork with a piece of onion 
 between each slice is a pork kebob, mutton chops 
 egged and breaded, then a skewer run through the 
 whole bunch, with perhaps a slice of fat salt pork 
 between each chop, is another form of kebob or 
 brocliette. 
 
 KANGAROO TAILS These can be bought in 
 cans. To prepare for the table the can is wanned, 
 
 KID 
 
 the jelly and gravy drawn off and made into a hot 
 sauce with poit wine and seasonings, strained, the 
 pieces of tail put in it; served with croutons of fried 
 bread around. 
 
 KARTOFFELX (Ger.) Potatoes. 
 
 KEDGEREE Anglo-Indian term like kebob. 
 It means "twice cooked." Is not any one thing but 
 a rechauffe or warm-up of fish, eggs or meat with 
 rice or potatoes or boiled peas. (/)-Cold fish and 
 hard-boiled eggs cut up in butter, baked on a layer 
 of mashed potatoes till all are hot through. (2)-Hard 
 boiled eggs and fried onions mixed, and served on 
 a bed of porridge made of boiled peas and boiled 
 rice, mixed together with butter, etc. 
 
 KID Young kid is as freely purchased and eaten 
 in some sections of this country as young lamb and 
 is as good. It is often, however, sold for lamb, which 
 is a fraud on the buyer. To KNOW KID FROM LAMH 
 Observe the lower joint of the fore -leg; the goat's 
 leg from the knee to the hoof is one-third shorter 
 than the sheep's. If the lower joint is cut off by the 
 butcher there is no way of knowing the difference, 
 but it is the common shop practice to dress lambs 
 with all the fore-leg left on except the hoof, and to 
 do otherwise in the kid season will be a suspicious 
 proceeding. CALIFORNIA KID "The editor of the 
 Los Angeles Herald asked me how I would like to 
 go out some day and help him eat a kid. I had never 
 eaten any kids, but I did not want to show my ig- 
 norance, so I told him I should like it above all 
 things. I thought maybe there was a time here when 
 the people thought they must eat a kid or two, and 
 I did not want to stop their pleasure, so I agreed to 
 go. I thought maybe if I did not like the kid, when 
 the time came they would let me lunch on a harness 
 tug or something. He set Sunday as the day, and 
 the result is I am just about as full of youthful goat 
 as a man can be, and if I don't bleat before morning- 
 it will be strange. Lynch has a friend who keeps 
 an Italian restaurant, where everything is cooked 
 right. Once a year or so he secures a young- kid and 
 keeps it until it is about six weeks old, feeding it on 
 nothing but its mother's milk. It never eats a spear 
 of grass and is simply fed on milk. The kid is taken 
 off into a canyon, away from the vile city, beside 
 mountain streams, killed and dressed and cooled, and 
 placed on sticks over the embers of a fire, and 
 roasted, being basted and turned frequently, and 
 when done to a turn it is placed upon an impro- 
 vised table, camp fashion, and the happy, hungry 
 man who has an invitation to that dinner begins to 
 get to his work. I had wondered, all the way, 
 whether I could eat goat. I had thought of all ihe 
 goats I had ever met around li very stables, and could 
 remember just how they smelled, but when I first 
 got a smell of that cremated kid I wondered if there 
 would be any of it left for the rest of the party. I 
 have eaten many delicious dishes in my time, but I 
 never ate anvthing so delicious as the kid of to-day, 
 roasted by my Italian friends and aided by some Los
 
 356 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 KID 
 
 Angeles claret and plenty of mountain air, while 
 the mountain stream at our feet sang so joyously, 
 and I will go further to enjoy another half of a small 
 goat, if I ever get the chance, than to partake of any 
 meal that can be produced." GOAT MUTTON "A 
 fine billy-goat, weighing 56 Ihs., formed the gastro- 
 nomic feature of a feast recently given bv the pro- 
 prietor of the Duke of Lancaster, Royton, Lanca- 
 shire. About fifty guests sat down to supper, and 
 according to a local chronicler, 'there was but one 
 opinion expressed at the finish of the appetizing 
 meal, that the flesh of the animal partaken of was 
 equal in all respects to the finest Southdown.' Kid's 
 flesh, we know from personal experience, is not half 
 bad, but the thought of billy-goat in his prime is too 
 appalling." 
 
 KIDXE YS Mutton kidneys are a great breakfast 
 specialty in England; grilled kidneys are only pre- 
 vented from being as universally served as the na- 
 tional eggs and bacon by their dearness; the demand 
 is always greater than the supply, and the price is 
 high, accordingly. Australia, which exports so 
 much mutton, now sends to England sheep- kidneys 
 in a frozen state, and the coveted delicacy may soon 
 be obtainable by people of moderate means in con- 
 sequence. BROILED KiDNE\*s-The kidneys skinned 
 are cut open without quite severing the two halves, 
 and a thin skewer run through them edgewise to 
 keep them in flat shape for broiling; dipped in butter, 
 laid on gridiron cut-side down; broiled 3 minutes; 
 turned, and broiled 3 minutes more; served with 
 maitre d'hotel butter. How TO EAT KIDNEYS 
 "Kidneys should be eaten directly they are dressed, 
 else they will lose their goodness. They are also 
 uneatable if too much done, and a man that cannot 
 cat meat underdone should not have them at his table. 
 In France they are saute with champagne or chab- 
 lis." MUTTON KIDNEYS WITH MUSHROOMS Sliced 
 kidneys fried in a pan with butter till slightly 
 brown; sliced mushrooms added, and brown sauce, 
 lemon juice, butter, salt, pepper, parsley. STEWED 
 KIDNEYS Any kind; same as the preceding without 
 brown sauc"e ready; but flour stirred in, and water 
 added; simmered to thicken. KIDNEYS IN CREAM 
 Beef, veal or mutton kidneys parboiled in two or 
 three waters to get rid of the brown gravy that comes 
 from and curdles on them; chopped fine, put into 
 cream sauce with parsley. BROCHETTES OF KID- 
 NEYS Slices strung on a skewer, saute in a pan with 
 butter, or in the oven, and finished on the gridiron; 
 served on the skewer if it is silver, or slipped off the 
 skewer on to toast, and sauce poured over. SAVORY 
 BUTTER FOR KIDNEYS One pound butter, 6 oz. 
 finely chopped shallots, 4 oz. chopped parsley, pep- 
 per, salt, lemon juice; worked tog-ether. FRIED 
 KIDNEYS AND SALT PORK Equal number of slices 
 of each; fried together, and gravy made in the pan. 
 CURRIED KIDNEYS Onion and sour apple chopped 
 and fried; curry powder added, and broth or water; 
 split kidneys put in; simmered, thickened; served 
 with rice. KIDNEY PATTIES Pattv cases filled with 
 
 KIS 
 
 (/) the kidneys in cream, above; (2) kidneys, ham 
 and mushrooms cut in dice, fried together; thick 
 sauce added. ROGNOXS DE MOUTON A i.'Epict'Rl- 
 ENNE-Mutton kidneys cut open, bread-crumbed and 
 broiled; the hollows filled with tartar sauce, and 
 devil sauce around. ROGXONS TIE. MOUTON A LA 
 VENiTiENNE-Kidneys in halves fried in butter with 
 shallots; dressed on a border; brown sauce with an- 
 chovy butter. ROCFNONS DE MOUTON AU VIN DE 
 C'HAMpAGNE-Thin slices of kidnevs parboiled, sim- 
 mered in butter; served in white sauce with cham- 
 pagne and mushrooms. PETITS PATES AUX ROG- 
 xoxs-Kidney patties, as above previously described. 
 ROGNON DE VEAU SAUTE Calf's kidney minced, 
 stirred up in a pan With butter; brown sauce and 
 wine added. ROGNON DE VEAU EN CAISSE Small 
 round slices of veal kidney in brown sauce with 
 shallots and mushrooms; baked in small paper cases, 
 the tops sprinkled with bread-crumbs. ROGNON DE 
 VEAU A LA JARDINIERE Specialty of Paris restau- 
 rant. Kidneys in slices skewered edgewise, cooked 
 in kidney fat with vegetables, covered with uuttered 
 paper; drained, taken off skewers, glazed, placed in 
 dish ; peas on one side, green beans on other, glazed 
 spring carrots at one end, duchesse potatoes to fin- 
 ish. Tomato sauce separate. 
 
 KI \GFISH A southern sea fish of the Spanish 
 mackerel variety. It is boiled and served with 
 Hollandaise sauce, or baked with fine herbs, or split 
 and broiled in the usual way for all fish, served with 
 maitre d' 'hotel butter spread upon it and garnished 
 with parsley and lemons. FILLETS OF K.INGFISH 
 A LA COLBERT Boneless sides seasoned, dipped in 
 flour, then in egg and bread-crumbs, fried; maitre 
 </' hotel butter, parsley and lemons. 
 
 KING'S RINGS King's rings is a French dish 
 fit for a king. Make a little delicate mince-meat 
 simply of veal or chicken, carefully flavored to taste, 
 and enclose it in rings of carrots cut in slices. The 
 success of this dainty depends entirely on the fla- 
 voring. 
 
 KIPPERED FISH Smoked fish. KIPPERED 
 SALMON Smoked salmon. KIPPERED HERRINGS 
 Common smoked herrings. "And the process by 
 which herrings are determined as 'blcaters' or 
 'kippers' were explained to him. The work was 
 going on in full swing, the strapping Scotch lassies 
 and women almost running about their work, with 
 no head-dress but a shawl brawny-looking Ama- 
 zons." 
 
 KIRSCHWASSER (Ger.) Liqueur made from 
 cherrv juice. The name signifies cherry -water. 
 SORBET AU KIRSCH Punch flavored with kirsch- 
 wasser. The cherry-seed flavor of this spirit makes 
 it very good for all sorts of cakes, ices and sweets. 
 
 KISELLE (Fr.) Corn-starch jelly, made by 
 thickening boiling raspberry syrup '.vith starch 
 enough to make it jelly w hen cold. 
 
 KISSES Common popular name for meringues 
 of cake icing baked on paper; also, certain candies.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 57 
 
 KIT 
 
 KITCHEN OF THE PHARAOHS "Nothing 
 is more curious and interesting in that remarkable 
 discovery lately made by Mr. Flinders Petrie in the 
 loneliest and dreariest corner of the north-eastern 
 Delta, where he has actually unearthed 'Pharaoh's 
 house in Tahpanhes,' of which 'we read in Jer. xliii, 
 than the perfect condition in which the kitchen and 
 servants' offices have been found. The kitchen, 
 which was in use nearly three thousand years ago, 
 is a large room with recesses in the thickness of the 
 walls, which served for dressers. Here some four- 
 teen large jars and two large flat dishes were found 
 by Mr. Petrie standing in their places, unharmed 
 amid the general destruction, as they may have 
 stood when the fugitive daughters of Zedekiah, 
 then a dethroned and mutilated captive in Babylon, 
 were brought to Pharaoh's palace in Tahpanhes by 
 Johanan, the son of Kareah, followed by ' all the 
 captains of the forces ' and ' the remnant of Judah.' 
 A pair of stone corn-rubbers, a large iron knife, 
 various weights, and three small flat iron-pokers 
 or possibly spits were also found in the kitchen. 
 The butler's pantry was, ofcourse, the room to 
 which wine jars were brought from the cellars to be 
 opened. It contained no amphorae, but hundreds of 
 jar lids and plaster amphorae -stoppers, some 
 stamped with the royal ovals of Psammetichus, and 
 some with those of Necho, his successor. Here 
 also was found a pot of resin. The empty amphora?, 
 with quantities of other pottery, mostly broken, 
 were piled in a kind of rubbish depot close by. 
 Some of these amphora: have the lute-shaped hiero- 
 glyph signifying nefer (good) scrawled three times 
 in ink upon the side, which, not to speak it pro- 
 fanely, may probably indicate some kind of ' XXX ' 
 for Pharaoh's consumption. Most curious of all, 
 however, is the small apartment evidently sacred to 
 the scullery maid. It contains a recess with a sink; 
 a built bench to stand things upon; and recesses in 
 the wall by way of shelves, in which to place what 
 had been washed up. The sink is formed of a large 
 jar with the bottom knocked out, and filled with 
 broken potsherds placed on edge. The water ran 
 through this and thence into more broken pots be- 
 low, placed one in another, all bottomless, going 
 down to the clean sand some four to five feet below. 
 The potsherds in this sink were covered with or- 
 ganic matter and clogged with fish-bones. In some 
 of the chambers of the palace there have been found 
 large quantities of early Greek vases, ranging from 
 550 B. c. to 600 B. c. This discovery of the palace 
 of Pharaoh in Tahpanhes is by far the most inter- 
 esting yet made in connection with the Egypt Ex- 
 ploration Fund." 
 
 KOHL-RABI The turnip-rooted cabbage, or 
 above-ground turnip; a root very much like a cab- 
 bage stalk in taste. Is said to be best when cooked 
 with the outside peel on and peeled after cooking. 
 It is then cut in large dice and put in white sauce or 
 brown, or chopped in cream, or served with small 
 
 KOU 
 
 pieces of boiled bacon, or mashed or cooked in any 
 way that other vegetables are. 
 
 KOONTIE The "koontie," a plant which grows 
 in Florida, has been called the "Indian bread root," 
 and the meal or flour made from it is very much 
 like the arrow-root of commerce. It makes a beau- 
 tiful white flour, of which bread and puddings are 
 made which are delicious and especially invaluable 
 for invalids. The Indians and natives have used 
 it for bread for many years, and people who have 
 tried it think there is a fortune in store for anyone 
 who will engage extensively in the manufacture of 
 "koontie" flour. 
 
 KOSHER (Heb.) Pure. See Jewish cookery. 
 
 KOUMISS Fermented milk. This is a regular 
 article of sale in the large cities. The taste is much 
 like buttermilk. Some like it as a beverage, others 
 drink it for their health. At the drug stores where 
 sold it is in bottles kept on ice, and the purchaser 
 is asked whether he wishes it fresh, medium, or 
 old. The old bottled koumiss contains a small per 
 cent, of alcohol, developed from the yeast-ferment- 
 ation of the milk, it discharges the cork from the 
 bottle with force like wine. The real original kou- 
 miss is made of mare's milk and is a Russian -Tartar 
 drink, originated by the tribes on the steppes of 
 Tartary. Koumiss made in this country is of cow's 
 milk. There are certain differences which result in 
 there being less alcohol in American than in Rus- 
 sian koumiss. Government Report : " Fermented 
 mare's milk has long been a favorite beverage in 
 the East, where it is known as 'koumiss.' Al- 
 though the Tartars and other Asiatic tribes use 
 mare's milk for the manufacture of koumiss, yet it 
 is not the only kind that can be employed. Since 
 the consumption of milk-wine has extended west- 
 ward cow's milk is chiefly employed for making it 
 both in Europe and America. Mare's milk is con- 
 sidered most suitable for fermentation because of 
 the large percentage of milk-sugar which it con- 
 tains. Dr. Stahlberg, who brought forty mares 
 from the steppes of Russia to Vienna for the pur- 
 pose of using their milk foi n.oumiss, found its per- 
 centage of lactose to be 7.26. On the other hand, 
 ordinary mares that were kept at work gave a milk 
 containing only 5.95 per cent, sugar. The quantity 
 of milk-sugar in a mare's milk is great, but there is 
 a deficiency of fat and other solids. It appears to 
 contain fully 89 per cent, water, while cow's milk 
 does not have more than 87 per cent. The mares 
 from which the milk was taken were on exhibition 
 at the London International Exposition for 1884. 
 These animals were obtained from the South -east- 
 ern Russia. The mares were from 5 to 6 years old, 
 and were cared for and milked by natives of tin- 
 country from which they were taken. When milked 
 five times daily the best of these mares gave from 
 four to five litres of milk. The process of manufact- 
 ure is not uniform. In the East the mare's milk is 
 placed in leathern vessels; to it is added a portion
 
 358 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 KRO 
 
 of a previous brewing, and also a little yeast. In 
 thirty to forty -eight hours the process is complete. 
 During this time the vessels are frequently shaken. 
 Good cow's milk, however, is suitable for the man- 
 ufacture of koumiss after most of the cream has 
 been removed. Should it he desired to make a kou- 
 miss richer in alcohol, some milk-sugar could be 
 added. In the samples analyzed by me the milk 
 was treated \vith a lactic ferment and yeast. After 
 twenty-four to forty-eight hours' fermentation the 
 koumiss was bottled. The bottles were kept in a cool 
 place, not above 50 degrees F., and in a horizontal 
 position. When shipped to me they \vere packed 
 in ice. After they were received in the laboratory 
 they were kept on ice until analyzed. The samples 
 
 analyzed were kindly furnished by Mr. of 
 
 Indianapolis. This koumiss makes a delighfully 
 refreshing drink. When drawn from the bottle and 
 poured a few times from glass to glass it becomes 
 thick like whipped cream, and is then most palata- 
 ble. It is much relished as a beverage, and is high- 
 ly recommended by physicians in cases of imper- 
 fect nutrition. As MADE IN LONDON A small quan- 
 tity of a preparation, usually consisting of yeast, 
 honey, alcohol, and a little flour, is added to warm 
 milk or milk and water. The whole is stirred, both 
 to aerate it and to prevent it from turning acid; 
 a faint odor announces the establishment of fer- 
 mentation, and at the proper time it is poured into 
 bottles, like those used for champagne, which are 
 then corked and wired. AMERICAN RECIPE Fill 
 a quart champagne bottle up to the neck with pure 
 milk; add two tablespoonfuls of white sugar, after 
 dissolving the same in a little water over a hot fire; 
 add also a quarter of a two-cent cake of compressed 
 yeast. Then tie the cork on the bottle securely, 
 and shake the mixture well; place it in a room of 
 the temperature of 50 to 95 degrees F., for six hours, 
 and finally in the ice box over night. 
 
 KROMESKIES Russian croquettes. Croquette 
 mixture of any material, meat, fish, chopped oys- 
 ters, chicken or anything, rolled up into shape of 
 bottle corks, then rolled up in the thinnest possible 
 shavings of cold boiled bacon, dipped into batter, 
 fried like fritters in hot lard. Served with fried 
 parsley or caper or other sauce. 
 
 KUCHEN (Ger.) Cake of any kind. APFEL- 
 KUCHEN Apple cake. 
 
 KUMMEL The chief liqueur of Russia, rmide 
 of cumin seed and caraway seed in sweetened spirit. 
 
 LACTOMETER Glass instrument for ascer- 
 taining the quality of milk. (See Milk.) 
 
 LADY- FINGERS The well known finger bis- 
 cuits or Savoy biscuits made of sponge cake batter 
 laid in finger lengths on paper. 
 
 LAFAYETTE FISH A sea-chubb, so called 
 from having appeared in great numbers at the time 
 of Lafayette's visit to America; it was thought to 
 
 LAK 
 
 be a new species and a name was sought for it. 
 Cooked by flouring and frying. 
 
 LAFAYETTE CAKE Jelly cake with many 
 layers piled high, iced over and ornamented. Flat 
 jelly cakes with colored icings are also sold by the 
 same name. 
 
 LAGER BEER The annual manufacture of beer 
 in this country is about 19,000,000 barrels. Count- 
 ing 1,000 glasses to a barrel, no extravagant esti- 
 mate, we have about 380 glasses per annum to every 
 inhabitant of the United States. In this country 
 there are three varieties usually known by the com- 
 mon name of lager beer, though, strictly speaking, 
 only one of them is entitled to the adjective "lager." 
 The Winter, pot beer, schenk (or schank) beer, but 
 sold as lager, is intended for immediate use, and is 
 light, containing less than three per cent, of alcohol ; 
 the true lager, or stored beer, should contain at least 
 three and a half per cent, of alcohol; while the bock 
 beer, the strongest of all the German beers, and so 
 named from causing its customers to prance and 
 tumble about like a buck or goat, contains as much as 
 five per cent, alcohof. The latter is generally sold 
 for only a few weeks in the beginning of summer, 
 and is in great demand by amateurs of the beverage. 
 At the lager beer cellers a costly apparatus is em- 
 ployed to force air into the beer. It consists of an air 
 pump which compresses air in a tank, a pipe con- 
 nects the compressed air with the beer keg. In some 
 places the kegs are packed in ice, in others where it 
 is not drawn directly from the keg it is forced 
 through a coil of pipe packed in ice and comes out 
 ice cold. " If the tale of the German is true, who 
 
 says: 
 
 ' Gabrantius Konig von Brabant 
 
 Der zuerst das Bier erfand.' 
 
 I bless the memory of the good King Gabrantius, 
 and quaff my nut-brown ale and sparkling lager 
 with the consolation of knowing that kings can do 
 no more." 
 
 LAITANCES (Fr.) Roes of fish. LAITANCES 
 DECARPE Carp roe. LAITANCES D'ALOSE Shad 
 roe. COQUILLES DE LAITANCES Scalloped roes 
 in shells. CASSEROLE DE LAITANCES Roes in the 
 saucepan; stewed roes in sauce. 
 
 LAIT (Fr.) Milk. LAIT D'AMANDES Milk of 
 almonds. LAIT DE POULE A drink of milk and 
 raw egg. 
 
 LAITUE (Fr.) Lettuce. 
 
 LAKE TROUT The Mackinaw trout; large fish 
 of the trout family caught in the great American 
 lakes; first quality, fine flavor; cream -colored or pink 
 fleshed, inclined to softness, best when boiled. 
 Large quantities are salted and sold by the barrel 
 in brine. The methods and sauces suitable for sal- 
 mon will be equally applicable to lake trout. 
 TRUITEDU LAC A LA MONTEBELLO Large troul, 
 skinned on one side and that side larded with fat 
 bacon, stuffed; cooked in the oven with paper over 
 and wine, broth and onion, etc., in the pan. Fish
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 359 
 
 LAM 
 
 taken up, pan liquor thickened with curry powder, 
 butter and flour. Mushrooms, fish quenelles. 
 
 LAMB Lamb is the favorite meat of the Greeks 
 and Turks. It is more exquisitely dressed in the 
 Turkish kitchen than in that of any other country. 
 ROAST LAMB In a dripping- pan dashed with boil- 
 ing water, cooked 15 minutes for each pound; bas- 
 ted often. Ten minutes before taken up it is dredged 
 with flour and basted with butter. Fat poured off, 
 gravy made in pan and currant jelly mixed with it. 
 BREAST OF LAMB WITH PEAS Cut in square pieces, 
 floured and half fried, stock or water added, sim- 
 mered tender, peas in the remaining- liquor served 
 with it. LAMB CUTLETS AUX PETITS Pois Cutlets 
 breaded and fried; frills on the bones; border of 
 mashed potatoes in dish hollowed in middle and 
 rilled with peas, mushroom sauce around, cutlets on 
 the mushrooms around the central border. LAMB 
 CUTLETS A LA DEMI-DEUIL When lamb cutlets are 
 saute, it is usual to surround them with a border of 
 truffles, which is called demi-deuil- a kind of half- 
 mourning- for the gentle creature. LAMB CUTLETS 
 AND STUFFED CUCUMBERS Ornamental dish; cu- 
 cumbers hollowed and stuffed with bread forcemeat, 
 stewed in milk, made cold, cut into rings, breaded, 
 fried, cutlets with frills on bone arranged alternately 
 in a crown, macedoine of vegetables in center. 
 SAUTE D'AGNEAU AUX TOMATES Paris restaurant 
 specialty. Boned shoulder of lamb cut into I inch 
 squares, fried in 4 oz. butter with 3 onions and 2 
 cloves of garlic; 12 tomatoes cut in halves, half fried 
 in butter then added to the stew and all cooked 15 
 minutes; croutons around. LAMB CUTLETS AU PAR- 
 MESAN Cutlets partly fried in butter to set them in 
 shape, then dipped in white sauce made thick with 
 grated cheese, breaded, egged, breaded again and 
 fried. LAMB CUTLETS WITH YOUNG CARROTS 
 Breaded cutlets with very small carrots cooked 
 whole and seasoned with butter, chopped parsley, 
 pepper, salt, sugar, lemon juice. LAMB CHOPS A LA 
 PRINCESSE Broiled chops dipped in white mush- 
 room sauce, made cold, egged and breaded and fried. 
 Served with asparagus in white sauce. LAMB CUT- 
 LETS A LA CHATLELAiNE-Cutlets sautced on one side, 
 cooled, trimmed, the cooked side covered with puree 
 of chicken and onion moistened with cream and egg. 
 The uncooked side is next sauteed which sets the 
 covering. Served with demi-glace and puree of 
 green peas. SELLES D' AGNEAU A LA TOULOUSAINE 
 Three saddles of lamb boned and served in tur- 
 ban form. The meat is cut in fillets which are lar- 
 ded, half with lean ham, half with truffles; mari- 
 naded in oil and lemon juice, arranged in alternate 
 iorm with forcemeat between, covered with buttered 
 paper, baked, served with financiere garnish. LAMB 
 CUTLETS A LA BOULANGEKE Cutlets dipped in oil 
 and flour, and broiled; cream sauce. COTELETTES 
 D'AGNEAU AUX PETITS LEGUMES Breaded and 
 fried ; julienne vegetables in brown sauce in the dish. 
 COTELETTES D'AGNEAU A LA DUCHESSE Spread 
 over withDuxelles sauce, made cold, breaded, fried; 
 
 LAM 
 
 served on a border or puree of green peas with 
 mixed vegetables in white sauce in the center. CO- 
 TELETTES D'AGNEAU A LA PoMPADOUR-Cutlets half 
 sauteed to set them in shape, coated with a mince of 
 bacon, veal, truffles, herbs, seasonings, wrapped in 
 buttered writing paper, cut to fit, cooked in the oven, 
 but finished on the gridiron to make thebroiler marks. 
 Served in the papers with their own gravy still in- 
 closed. COTELETTES D'AGNEAU FARCIES AUX TRUF- 
 FES Cutlets larded, coated with puree of truffles in 
 thick sauce, made cold, then breaded and fried; 
 brown sauce. COTELETTES D'AGNEAU EN BELLE- 
 VUE Cold dish; larded ornamentally with tongue, 
 etc., braised, laid in a dish, melted aspic poured 
 over, cut out when cold with the coating of jelly 
 upon them. Served with mayonnaise-aspic. EPI- 
 GRAMME OF LAMB See epigramme. BLANQUETTE 
 D'AGNEAU Small round slices of cooked lamb and 
 tongue in white sauce, with parsley and button 
 mushrooms; served in a casserole or border. TEN- 
 DRONS D'AGNEAU The breast cut in pieces. 
 
 LAMB CUTLETS. 
 
 Macedoine in center, silver skewer and truffle, 
 on ornamental stand of nouilles paste. 
 
 QUARTIER D'AGNEAU A LA BROCHE Fore -quarter 
 roasted. QUARTIER D'AGNEAU A LA HOTELIERE 
 Roasted and served in a sauce of maitre d'tiotel 
 butter and cream. COTES D'AGNEAU A LA CHAN- 
 CELIERE Fore-quarter to be served whole. The 
 shoulder is cut off, the meat is chopped into a kind 
 of well seasoned sausage ine.it, put back on the ribs, 
 breaded over, browned in the oven. SELLE D'AG- 
 NEAU A LA BONNE FERMIERE Roast saddle of 
 lamb with a border of breaded lambs fries and mint 
 sauce. SELLE D'AGNEAU A L'ALLEMANDE Saddle 
 boned, stuffed, braised, served with vegetable gar- 
 nish. SELLE D'AGNEAU A LA VILLEROI Boned, 
 stuffed, braised, covered with thick Allemande 
 sauce, grated cheese and bread-crumbs, browned. 
 GIGOT D'AGNEAU A LA PALESTINE Leg of lamb 
 with pur<e of Jerusalem artichokes. EPAULE D'AG- 
 NEAU A LA MONTMORENCY Shoulder boned, 
 stuffed, larded, braised, served with Toulouse gar- 
 nish of mushrooms, etc. PATE CHAUD D'AGNEAU
 
 360 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 LAM 
 
 Lamb pie, hot. MINCED LAMB Cooked lamb 
 minced fine, seasoned highly, made hot in thick 
 gravy, piled in middle of dish with poached eggs 
 and fried croutons around. LAMB CUTLETS WITH 
 PUREE OF MINT Cutlets % inch thick breaded, 
 fried, served with mint sauce. ROAST LAMB A LA 
 DUDLEY Leg of lamb with skin removed, surface 
 larded with strips of sweetbread and kidney; cov- 
 ered with the caul fat of the lamb, roasted, mint 
 sauce. 
 
 LAMBS' FRY The "pluck;" heart, liver, lights, 
 etc. Same as pigs' fry, sheeps' fry. (See next item.) 
 
 LAMB FRIES Club dish. May be broiled, 
 fricasseed, and stewed in wine sauce, but are gen- 
 erally fried. They are split or sliced, sprinkled 
 with pepper, salt, lemon juice, dipped in flour, then 
 in egg and bread-crumbs and fried. They are hard 
 to fry dry and with the covering of crumbs un- 
 broken, need plenty of room in plenty of fat that is 
 very hot, otherwise they shrink away and are soaked 
 with grease. Should be cooked only as wanted and 
 served hot. May be served on a bed of mashed po- 
 tatoes, or with peas. 
 
 LAMBSQUARTER Popular name of a kind of 
 wild salad greens. (See Fetticus.) 
 
 LAMPREY A kind of eel, thicker in proportion 
 to its length, oily, not very abundant. Cooked in 
 the same ways as eels, also potted by baking in a 
 jar with butter and spices; eaten cold. LAMPROIE 
 A L'ITALIENNE Fillets of lamprey stewed in wine 
 with oil, onions, herbs and lemon juice. LAMPROIE 
 AU SUPREME Lamprey cut up, sauteed, served in 
 sauce of red wine with truffles. 
 
 LANDRAIL A kind of snipe. 
 
 LANGOUSTE (Fr.) The crawfish or sea cray- 
 fish; a small .lobster. 
 
 LANGUE (Fr.) Tongue. LANGUE DE BCEUF 
 Beef tongue. 
 
 LAPEREAU (Fr.) Young rabbit. 
 
 LAPIN (Fr.) Rabbit. 
 
 LARDOONS (Fr.) Shreds of bacon or pork. 
 
 LARD (Fr.) Bacon. 
 
 LARDING MEAT The inserting of strips of 
 fat bacon or lardoons. 
 
 LARDING NEEDLES Long needles having 
 the butt end like a tube split open to admit the strips 
 of bacon for larding meat. 
 
 LARD A great deal of watered lard is now sold 
 branded "pure," and consumers should be on their 
 guard against this imposition. A very simple test 
 of purity is to drop a small piece of lard into a hot 
 fire. If pure it burns smoothly, like oil; if watered 
 it crackles and splutters. Watered lard is unnatur- 
 ally white, and is colder to the tongue than pure 
 lard. Buyers of refined lard should ask for a guar- 
 antee that it is absolutely free from water. Lard is 
 very much sophisticated in other ways. The deal- 
 ers offer three or more grades, not pretending that 
 
 LAV 
 
 they are pure. Manufacturers testified before a 
 committee of congress that about one third of the 
 lard sold is composed of cotton-seed oil, combined 
 with beef stearine and chemicals. The refined oil 
 is as good as lard for some purposes, such as fry- 
 ing, but ought to be at a lower price than lard. 
 Stewards who wish to have lard used for making 
 pastry, should buy the firmest and best, as soft lard 
 is useless for that purpose. 
 
 LARKS AND LARK-PIES The common 
 lark, which is called in Paris mauriette, is generally 
 looked upon as a wholesome, delicate, and light 
 game. It is dressed in various ways; and the^owr- 
 metx appreciate the value of the excellent lark-pies, 
 which have established the reputation of the town 
 of Pithiviers in France. How TO JUDGE LARKS 
 The physician of Queen Anne, Dr. Lister, like his 
 royal mistress a great gastronomer, appraised the 
 goodness of larks by their weight. He laid down 
 the rule, which has ever since been held sound, that 
 twelve larks should weigh thirteen ounces, and that 
 if below that weight they are not good. LARKS A 
 LA FRAXCAISE Pick and clean (leaving the livers 
 in) six larks, cut off the heads, wing-bones, and feet 
 just below the second joint; tie a piece of fat bacon 
 over each, put them in a stewpan with a gill of 
 chicken consomme, in which throw a dessert spoon- 
 ful of chopped parslev, three chopped chives, one tea - 
 spoonful of white pounded sugar; let them stew for 
 fifteen minutes, add salt to taste, and serve with the 
 sauce in which they have been stewed. MAU- 
 VIETTES GRILLEES Larks split open and broiled, on 
 toast or fried bread. MAUVIETTES EX SALMIS 
 Salmis of larks. MAUVIETTES A LA CHIPOLATA 
 Cooked in the oven and served with a chipolata 
 garnish of chestnuts, small sausages, etc. MAU- 
 VIETTES EN CAISSE The larks are boned, the bones 
 and trimmings boiled with vegetables and bacon to 
 make sauce; livers and chicken livers cut in dice, 
 fried with onions, rubbed through a sieve; liver 
 paste placed in the oiled paper cases, lark on top, 
 slice of bacon over it, baked 15 minutes. TURBAN 
 DE MAUVIETTES A LA PARISIENXE Boned, stuffed 
 with game forcemeat, braised, dished crown -shape, 
 quenelles in center and game sauce. MAUVIETTES 
 EN COTELETTEji Boned larks, spread with force- 
 met t, breaded, browned in oven, served with brown 
 sauce. CROUSTADE DE MAUVIETTES Larks boned, 
 stuffed and baked in a croustade of fried bread. 
 LARK PIE Larks trimmed, stuffed with bread 
 stuffing, seasoned; slices of bacon and beefsteak in 
 a dish, larks on top, broth and seasonings, top crust 
 of paste; baked an hour or more. (See Mauvieltf.) 
 
 LASAGNES A kind of macaroni or Italian 
 paste in the form of yellow ribbon. 
 
 LAYER An edible seaweed. In Ireland it is 
 called "sloke," is cooked like spinach and is also 
 fried in bacon fat after boiling; it is best to have a 
 porcelain saucepan to cook it in as it acts upon 
 metals, but is wholesome nevertheless.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 361 
 
 LAW 
 
 LAWX TENNIS CAKE A Richfield Springs 
 confectioner and restaurant-keeper is making and 
 selling by the pound a cake which he calls lawn- 
 tennis cake. It is a sort of Genoa cake iced over the 
 surface and covered thickly with chopped pistachios. 
 
 LEKK -A species of onion; the green leaves are 
 flat like ribbons; not tubular like an onion, but the 
 taste resembles onion. It is used in most soups 
 when it can be obtained. LEEKS AS A VEGETABLE 
 Leeks are very good served on toast as asparagus. 
 Trim the leeks and cut away the green till there is 
 little left but the white part; clean thoroughly, and 
 boil till tender. Pour good melted butter over them 
 and serve very hot. LEEK SOUP A L'ECOSSAISE 
 "The leek was a favorite ingredient in the 'cockle 
 leekie,' of which James I. is reported to have been so 
 fond, that he retained his preference for it, notwith- 
 standing all the dainties of London cookery." LEEK 
 SOUP A LA PICAKDE Leeks cut in shreds, half fried 
 in butter, beef broth and sliced potatoes added, 
 boiled; small toasts. PUREE OF LEEKS A soup 
 made same way as with onions. POIREAUX AU Jus 
 Leeks cooked like asparagus and served with meat 
 gravy. 
 
 LEGUMES (Fr.) Vegetables. 
 
 LEIPZIG PANCAKFS-Sweet pancakes in pairs 
 with jam between; they are raised with yeast, rolled 
 out thin like small crackers, and fried in a little lard. 
 
 LEMON Nearly everything in the sweet line is 
 flavored with lemon sometimes, and lemon cream, 
 lemon pudding, lemon cake, etc., have no definite 
 form otherwise. LEMON Soup-Chicken broth thick- 
 ened like custard with yolks and cream, and lemon 
 juice added. LEMON BUTTER Yolks, flour, and 
 butter stirred into boiling lemon syrup. Used to fill 
 tarts, spread jelly cakes, etc. LEMON HoNEY-Sugar 
 dissolved in lemon juice with the grated rind and 
 butter; boiled, and thickened with yolks; a kind of 
 jam with neither water in it nor flour. LEMON PIE- 
 (/) Butter, sugar, and eggs creamed together as for 
 cake, grated rind and juice added, and bread- 
 crumbs to make it like cake dough; baked in open 
 pies. (2) Mixture of I Ib. sugar, \y 2 pts. water, 4 
 lemons, 2 oz. butter, 5 oz. flour, 6 or 8 eggs; baked in 
 open pies, meringued over. LEMON CREAM PIE 
 Frangipane or pastry cream with grated rind and 
 juice in it; baked as a custard pie; whipped cream 
 spread over it when cold. LEMON SPONGE Lemon 
 jelly whipped to froth while cooling; served with 
 custard. (See 'Jellies.') LEMON TRIFLE Whipped 
 cream flavored with grated rind and juice, sugar, 
 sherry, and nutmeg; served heaped in small glasses. 
 LEMON SAUCE FOR FISH AND FOWLS Chopped 
 lemon, without seeds, stewed in little water, mixed 
 with white sauce or cream sauce. SWEET PICKLED 
 LEMONS To eat with game. Thin-skinned fruit to 
 be chosen, the rind carved ornamentally with point 
 of a penknife; lemons boiled until tender in sweet- 
 ened \vater, then put in jar, strong syrup poured over 
 boiling, reboiled and poured to them 3 times. 
 
 LET 
 
 LEMON DUMPLINGS Small round dumplings 
 steamed, or boiled in a cloth; made of l /. Ib. bread- 
 crumbs, y^ Ib. chopped suet, i lemon rind and juice, 
 % Ib. sugar, spoonful of milk, 2 eggs; boiled y 2 hour; 
 wine sauce. LEMON PEEL Can be made into fla- 
 voring by paring thin and putting into a bottle of 
 whisky; the liquor becomes extract of lemon. KEEP- 
 ING LEMONS Lemons ma}- be kept perfectly fresh 
 for six months, or longer, if kept immersed in a 
 vessel in enough buttermilk to cover them. The 
 buttermilk should be changed at least twice a month, 
 and the lemons should be wiped perfectly dry with 
 a cloth when required for use. LEMON MINCEMEAT- 
 See Mincemeat. LEMON SYRUP Surplus lemons 
 are used to make syrup by paring the rind thinly, 
 and squeezing the juice, and boiling in sugar syrup; 
 straining and bottling for use when fresh lemons 
 cannot be obtained. LEMON MARMALADE The 
 lemons boiled in 3 waters, taken up when tender, 
 sliced, seeds removed; fruit weighed, 2 ibs. sugar 
 and i pt. water to each pound of fruit; boiled to- 
 gether y z hour. LEMON RoLY-PoLY-Sheet of short 
 paste spread with lemon marmalade or lemon butter, 
 rolled up, steamed. LEMON SHERBET See Sherbet. 
 
 LENNOX SLICES A new cake strongly fla- 
 vored with chartreuse is popular just now in New 
 York at tea and luncheon parties. It is introduced 
 under the name of "Lennox slices." 
 
 LENTILS Kind of pea used for soup ; of a brown 
 color, flattened shape. Lentils are said to contain 
 twice the nourishment of flesh meat; the small Egyp- 
 tians are the best. BOILED LENTILS Soaked over 
 night and boiled same as beans or peas, seasoned 
 with bacon or butter. PUREE OF LENTILS Boiled 
 or stewed lentils rubbed through a seive, seasoned, 
 served as a vegetable. LENTIL SOUP Lentils boiled 
 with stock, water, leeks, parsley, celery, salt pork, 
 etc.; passed through seive, same as pea soup; crou- 
 tons of bread. POTAGE A LA CHANTILLY Puree of 
 lentils soup with cream. 
 
 LETTUCE " Lettuce is not much cooked in this 
 country and when cooked it is not much better than 
 a cabbage; but when raw, and eaten in salad, it has 
 a peculiarly pieasant taste; and has a sedative ac- 
 tion upon the nervous system, which makes one re- 
 turn to it eagerly, as one returns to tobacco and to 
 opium. The chemists obtain from the lettuce an 
 inspissated juice called sometimes lactucarium, 
 sometimes lettuce-opium which is said to allay 
 pain, to slacken the pulse, to reduce animal heat, and 
 to conduce to sleep." WIPED, NOT WASHED 
 " Lettuces ought never to be wetted; they lose their 
 crispness, and are/^ro tanto destroved. If you can 
 get nothing but wet lettuces, you had certainly bet- 
 ter drv them; but if you wish for a good salad, cut 
 vour lettuce fresh from the garden, take off the out- 
 side leaves, cut or rather break it into a salad bowl, 
 and then mix." A MEDICAL REMARK " Some are 
 now strongly insisting that lettuces should be used 
 more generally as food, and suggesting that they
 
 362 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 LEY 
 
 ought to boiled, after which treatment they are said 
 to be as palatable as spinach. If this be the fact, it 
 is worth knowing, as spinach is necessaaily ex- 
 cluded from the diet of the oxaluric patient, and it 
 is precisely in this class of cases the soothing prop- 
 erties of the lettuce, if it have any, would be valua- 
 ble." BOILED LETTUCE Boiled in very little water 
 and turned frequently; when quite tender drained, 
 pressed, chopped fine, put in a stewpan with little 
 cream, butter, pepper, and salt. LETTUCE SOUPS 
 Consomme a la Cobert, Consomme a la Kursal, Con- 
 somme a la Chiffonade, Potage aux Herbes Prin- 
 tanieres, Potage a la Bonne Femme. CONSOMME 
 AUX LAITUES Halves of lettuces tied and stewed, 
 served with consomme separately. LETTUCE SOUP 
 A L'AMPHITRYON Stewed lettuce chopped and sea- 
 soned with cheese, filled into croustades made of 
 rolls hollowed out, sprinkled with cheese, crumbs 
 and butter, browned, served with consomme separ- 
 ately, and grated cheese with it. STUFFED LETTUCK 
 Parboiled, drained, split open, forcemeat or sau- 
 sage meat inserted, fat pork outside, simmered an 
 hour. LETTUCE SALADS (See Salads.) 
 
 LEVRAUT (Fr.) Hare. LIEVRE is the same. 
 
 LEVERET Young hare. (See Hare.) 
 
 LIAISON (Fr.) Anything that is put into soup 
 or sauce to thicken it, especially eggs, stirred in to 
 make it creamy like a custard. 
 
 LICORICE or LIQUORICE An American root 
 used extensively for making the extract which is 
 sold extensively in the form of stick liquorice, as a 
 remedy for coughs. LICORICE COUGH LQXENGES 
 Specialty; made of dissolved stick licorice and gum 
 arable in water to make 2 qts. thick mucilage; 2$ 
 Ibs. powdered sugar, 2 oz. ipecacuanha, i drachm 
 acetate of morphia, i oz. oil of aniseed, i oz. pow- 
 dered tartaric acid; enough of the licorice mucilage 
 to make paste of it, rolled, stamped out. 
 
 LIEVRE (Fr.) Hare: same as levrauf. 
 
 LIMA BEAN The butter bean; thrives best in 
 the long summers of the southern states; one of the 
 most delicate of vegetables in the green state, and 
 nearly as good after drying. It is boiled like green 
 peas and seasoned and sauced the same ways. LIMA 
 BEANS SAUTES IN BUTTER After boiling tender 
 put in a pan with butter, parsley, salt, pepper, sim- 
 mered a short time, served hot. LIMA BEANS SOUP 
 Puree of lima beans in seasoned broth with butter 
 and sippets of fried bread. 
 
 LIMANDE (Fr.) Dab; a small flat-fish. 
 
 LIMBURGER CHEESE A very high -flavored 
 and odorous cheese, now extensively manufactured 
 in this country to meet a very large demand. It is 
 a soft whitish cheese of about the consistency of 
 new soap, and is in bars wrapped in tinfoil. 
 
 LIME A small kind of lemon, plentiful in the 
 markets, used in many of the same ways as lemons; 
 served with oysters, used in making bar drinks. It 
 Is pale-colored, thin-skinned, more acid and juicy 
 
 LIV 
 
 than the lemon. LIME? FOR GARNISHING "As a 
 
 piquant addition to a veal cutlet, or fried sole, the 
 
 juice of the lime is to our mind preferable to that of 
 
 the lemon. In most tropical countries where limes 
 
 grow, a regular supply is laid in weekly of some six 
 
 or eight dozen, at a cost of a few cents, and the 
 
 juice is eaten with almost everything that appears 
 
 at table, except 'Irish stew.' " PICKLED LIMES 
 
 Limes with slight cuts in the rind are rubbed with 
 
 salt, allowed to remain 5 days to soften. Vinegar 
 
 < boiled with 4 oz. each mustard seed and ginger to 
 
 each quart and i oz. whole pepper; limes and salt in 
 
 I a jar, boiling vinegar poured upon them. PRE- 
 
 ', SERVED LIMES Limes boiled in 3 waters, sliced, 
 
 i stewed in sugar. (See lemon.) LIMES WITH RICE 
 
 i Limes preserved in syrup served on rice boiled in 
 
 milk and sweetened, after the manner of peaches 
 
 with rice, the lime syrup for sauce. 
 
 LING A fish that resembles cod, plentiful on the 
 co-ast of Scotland. It is sometimes imported as a 
 novelty, used in all the ways of cod to cook or dry, 
 and oil is obtained from the livers the same as from 
 cod livers. 
 
 LIOX Lion's flesh is almost identical with veal 
 in color, taste and texture so the hunters say. 
 
 LIPTAU CHEESE The famous goafs-milk 
 cheese of Liptau, in Bohemia, similar to the Italian 
 Moring cheese. It comes wrapped in tinfoil, packed 
 in boxes. 
 
 LIQUEURS Various flavored spirics, 'such as 
 chartreuse, absinthe, vermouth, etc. 
 
 LIQUEURS Name of a certain class of candies 
 flavored with liqueurs; bonbons. The best have a 
 liquid inside while the outside is crystallized. 
 
 LIQUEUR CANDY ^YITH EGGS Suitable 
 for hotel dessert. It is ribbons of flavored egg-yolk 
 cooked by running through a funnel into boiling 
 syrup, then draining and rolling in granulated su- 
 gar. Takes 7 Ibs. sugar boiled to "the blow" or 
 below candy point, 12 yolks beaten up with kirsch- 
 wasser run in like a rope from a funnel ; is yellow 
 and crystallized. Needs a name. 
 
 LITRE The French quart; is about 2$ Amer- 
 ican pints. 
 
 LIVER Calf's liver is much sought after for 
 restaurant trade, and the butchers seldom have anv 
 for casual buyers; it is much better than any other, 
 though beef liver is not bad. Pig's liver is next 
 best; sheep's liver is the worst, being hard. Calf's 
 liver and bacon is a popular breakfast dish. LIVER 
 AND BACON EN BROCHETTE (/) Cut bacon in thin 
 slices, then in squares, scald the liver to set it in 
 shape, then cut thin squares to match the bacon. 
 String liver and bacon alternately on a skewer and 
 broil on all four sides. If silver skewers serve 
 without removing them, if iron skewers slip the 
 meat off on to a slice of toast. (^Prepared as 
 above, egged, breaded, fried in hot lard, served with 
 sauce. FRIED LIVER Slices seasoned, dipped in
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 363 
 
 LIZ 
 
 flour and fried in shallow pan with little bacon fat. 
 LIVEK AND ONIONS Fried liver covered with 
 onions wjiich have been fried separately. BROILED 
 LIVER Floured, broiled, basted with butter, served 
 with tnaiti-c d'/ioti'l butter. LIVER SAUTE Sm.. 11 
 pieces of liver and bacon simmered in the bacon 
 fat, with little onion, seasoned, water added and 
 gravy made in the pan. ROAST LIVER Large 
 piece larded through and through with finger strips 
 of fat bacon, which are rolled before insertion in 
 minced garlic, herbs and mixed spice, roasted with | 
 same seasonings in the pan, and pepper and salt ; 
 gravy in the pan with lemon juice added. LIVER A 
 LA MODE Liver larded through and through with 
 ' strips of carrot, turnip and bacon, herbs and sea- 
 sonings, baked slowly in deep pan with buttered 
 paper over; gravy with wine in the pan, served 
 with vegetables. FOIE DE VEAU A L'ITALIENNE 
 Calf's liver cooked with oil, wine, bacon, mush- 
 rooms, herbs, lemon juice; sauce made in the pan. 
 PAIN DE FOIE DE VEAU Liver paste; pounded 
 and steamed in a mould with eggs, chopped ham, 
 bay leaf, wine seasonings, served hot with brown 
 sauce, or cold, or in sandwiches. (See fromage 
 d'ltalie.) CHICKEN LIVER PATTIES Chicken 
 livers, calf's liver, and calf's kidney cut very small, 
 simmered in butter with seasonings, flour and gravy 
 added and little sherry; dished in patty cases. DEV- 
 ILLED LIVER Parboiled turkey- liver mashed with 
 butter, mustard, salt, cayenne, mushroom catsup. 
 Stirred over fire till very hot, served on toast. (See 
 foie ffras.) LIVERWURST Liver sausage made of 
 liver and bacon fat with coriander seed, cloves or 
 garlic. LIVER SOUP See gondingo. LIVER 
 KLOSE Liver, bacon, bread-crumbs, butter, eggs, 
 parsley, salt, pepper; made into paste, formed in 
 balls, boiled in water. (See German cookery.) 
 
 LIZARD" I do confess, though, that on one of 
 the last occasions of my dining in Honduras I did 
 not fejsl that all was well, when at the end of the 
 meal I found that I had stuffed myself with baked 
 lizard. Of course, there is nothing wrong with the 
 lizard, except our petty prejudices. It tasted splen- 
 didly; but when at last I saw the big, seal}- leg and 
 the claw of the lizard, I don't think I liked it." (See 
 Guana.) 
 
 LOBSTER On the French coast a lobster is 
 boiled in half milk and half water. The "Cardinal 
 of the Sea" is also cooked in a court-bouillon, made 
 of a handful of salt in the water, a pat of butter, a 
 bunch of parsley, a clove of garlic, and a claret-glass 
 of Chablis or Marsala, the wine being added after 
 the lobster has boiled for a quarter of an hour. 
 BROILING LOBSTERS ALIVE "Broiled live lobsters 
 are the latest in the fish restaurants, and jolly nice 
 they are, too! They split Mr. Lobster down ffom 
 head to tail, and pop him on the grill flat side down. 
 He is served scalding hot, and you eat him with 
 lemon and cayenne." ALLEGED CULINARY CRUELTY 
 The sign "broiled live lobsters" has appeared at a 
 number of the citv restaurants. If the lobsters were 
 
 LOB 
 
 put on the gridiron whole, the practice would call 
 for suppression by law. Such is not the practice. 
 To broil a lobster in its shell would have no effect 
 different from boiling or steaming; the broil is at- 
 tained by the exposure of the inside flesh to the fire. 
 The splitting down the full length of the lobster 
 kills it before it reaches the fire. The seat of life is 
 a spot in the center of the head where it joins the 
 body, and when the cook's knife passes through it, 
 life ceases, though the mechanical contractions of 
 the members may continue for awhile. A lobster 
 can be killed instantly by thrusting a skewer into the 
 part, cither from the back of the head or through the 
 mouth. The catfish is one of the slowest animals 
 to die, and hours after it has been skinned and 
 cut up in pieces, if the head be opened carefully, 
 the seat of life can be found like a heart, about 
 the size of a lima bean, still beating with puls- 
 ations plain to see; but if this spot be pierced 
 even when the fish is first caught and most 
 alive, it dies immediately. LOBSTER A L'AMERI- 
 CAINE A freshly killed lobster is cut up into 8 or 10 
 pieces, the claws making 4 more, and the head is set 
 apart. Some oil is poured in a shallow saucepan, 
 and into it is put mushrooms, onions, shallots, gar- 
 lic, thyme, bay-leaves, parsley, salt, white pepper, 
 cayenne, fried all together, without the lobster, till 
 light brown ; the oil then drained off, 3 tomatoes and 
 a bottle of Chablis added; boiled 5 minutes, and the 
 pieces of lobster, shell and all, thrown in; cooked % 
 hour, taken up, and the sauce thickened with the 
 substance found in the head, and 4 yolks; carefully 
 mixed in without boiling; strained over the lobster. 
 Same method as with crabs for gumbo, and the 
 southern or Creole fish court -bouillon. HOMARD AU 
 CouRT-BouiLLON-Lobster boiled in ordinary court- 
 bouillon (which is seasoned broth with little wine), 
 and served with lobster sauce. LOBSTER AU KARI- 
 Curried lobster, served with rice. COTELETTES DE 
 HOMARD Lobster cutlets. (Ste Cutlets). MIROTOX 
 DE HOMARD A LA CARDINAL Slices of lobster, half 
 dipped in white sauce, half in cardinal sauce; served 
 cold on a salad with mayonnaise. COQUILLE DE 
 HOMARD Lobster in the shell; scalloped lobster 
 made by cutting the meat of cooked lobster small, 
 putting it in a yellow sauce containing onions, wine, 
 yolks, etc., filling plated scallop shells or the back 
 shell of the lobsters with it; crumbs and butter on 
 top; baked. CROQUETTES DE HOMARD Same as 
 cutlets except the shape. RISSOLES DE HOMARD 
 Croquette-preparation rolled in paste and fried. 
 PETITS VOL- AU- VENTS DE HOMARD Lobster pat- 
 ties. BOUCHEES DE HOMARD^A LA BECHAMEL 
 Smaller patties filled with chopped lobster in cream 
 sauce. MAYONNAISE DE HOMARD Lobster-meat 
 with lettuce and mayonnaise; decorated. LOBSTER 
 A LA NANTAiSE-Cold; the lobster boiled in ordinary 
 court -bouillon ; the creamy part from the head with 
 the coral, and some yolks and mustard stirred with 
 oil, to make mayonnaise; the lobster- meat sliced in 
 a bowl, and sauce poured over. STUFFED LOBSTER,
 
 364 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 LOB 
 
 NARRAGANSETT STYLE Like devilled crabs; lob- 
 ster-croquette preparation filled in the pieces of lob- 
 ster shell; crumbed, buttered, baked. TURBAN OK 
 LOBSTER A LA MAZARIN Sliced lobster with force- 
 meat and sauce in a border mould; steamed till set 
 firm, turned out, and center filled with oysters, 
 mushrooms, fish quenelles, and sauce; served hot. 
 BALLOTINES OF LOBSTER Lobster meat cut small 
 in creamy sauce ; used to stuff tomatoes, which are 
 then placed with the aperture downwards in little 
 patty pans and steamed; served hot or cold, with 
 fish -quenelles and sauce, or in aspic. LOBSTER ; 
 CnEESE--Like head cheese. Lobster chopped or 
 sliced, mayonnaise jelly made and stirred into it; 
 seasonings; set in a mould. (See Mayonnaise.) 
 LOBSTER A L'IRLANDAISE Meat of a boiled lobster 
 in a stewpan with mustard, vinegar, cayenne, and 
 flour-and-butter for thickening; covered, simmered 
 5 minutes, glass of sherry added; served hot with 
 lemon. LOBSTER PUDDING English; lobster-cro- 
 quette mixture containing eggs, boiled in a mould 
 for an hour; served with lobster sauce. LOBSTER 
 EN BROCHETTE Pieces of lobster alternately with 
 slices of bacon strung on a skewer; buttered ; broiled. 
 LOBSTER CREAM IN ASPIC Lobster meat in white 
 sauce set with gelatine. MAZARINS OF LOBSTER 
 The preceding and similar jellied forms set in small 
 moulds, called mazarin moulds. LOBSTER SOUP 
 (/) One quart stock to i can lobster, i cup milk, 2 
 yolks, parsley, pepper, salt, flour-and-butter worked 
 together enough to thicken it. (2) Fish broth, 2 qts. ; 
 i can lobster, milk thickened with starch added, and 
 butter and seasonings. LOBSTER SOUP A L'!NDI- 
 ENNE Fried vegetables and aromatics, broth, wine, 
 and lobsters boiled together; curry powder, pounded 
 lobster shells, butter and flour boiled in the liquor; 
 lobster meat in the tureen, and the curry soup 
 strained over it; rice separate. BISQUE OF LOBSTER- 
 Made of rice and lobster. Butter, onions, ham, salt 
 pork, and parsley fried together; cut-up lobsters in 
 shell thrown in; wine, broth, seasonings; boiled an 
 hour. Lobster meat and shells pounded in a mortar, 
 passed through seive; rice the same; broth passed 
 through seive, lobster liquor added, and sherry; not 
 boiled; served with fried sippets of bread. LOBSTER 
 SAUCE (/) White butter-sauce with lobster coral to 
 color it, and lobster cut in small dice. (2) Butter 
 sauce, salt, white pepper, nutmeg, cayenne, lemon 
 juice, anchovy essence, lobster butter, strained; lob- 
 ster meat cut small added; it ought to be pink in 
 color. LOBSTER BUTTER Coral and eggs of cooked 
 lobsters pounded in a mortar, mixed with equal 
 quantity of butter; rubbed through a seive. LOB- 
 STER SALAD See Salads. 
 
 LOXGE DE PORC (Fr.) Loin of Pork. 
 
 LORDKOLL CAKE OR ALMOND PUDDING 
 Paris specialty. " Call it any name you like. It 
 is called Lordkoll Cake here. This is how it is pre- 
 pared: Prepare i Ib. sweet almond powder, to 
 which add y 2 oz. bitter almonds, all very drv. Add 
 I Ib. powdered sugar. Take 16 eggs, of which 
 
 LUC 
 
 separate the yolks from the whites. Add yolks to 
 mixture, working them in carefully. Bt-:it up whites 
 with vanilla and add. Take Charlotte moulds, 
 which butter and flour. Fill your mould with the 
 mixture, and bake in a slow oven. Cakes to be served 
 hot and usually covered with an English or vanilla 
 sauce." 
 
 LOVE IN DISGUISE Is a calf 's heart stuffed, 
 then surrounded with forcemeat, next rolled in 
 powdered vermicelli, lastly deposited in a baking 
 dish with little butter and cooked in the oven. Serve 
 it in the dish with its own gravy. 
 
 LOSS OF WEIGHT Chickens lose one third 
 their weight in boiling and one third more in pick- 
 ing from the bones and mincing. 4^ Ibs. raw chick- 
 en yields only ij^ Ib. clear meat for salad. "The 
 result of a set of experiments which were actually 
 made in a public establishment. They were not un- 
 dertaken from mere curiosity, but to serve a pur- 
 pose of practical utility: 28 pieces of beef weighing 
 280 Ibs. lost in boiling 73 Ibs. 14 oz. Hence the loss 
 of beef in boiling was 26^ ibs. in ico Ibs. ; 19 pieces 
 of beef weighing 190 Ibs. lost in roasting 61 Ibs. 2 oz., 
 or 32 Ibs. in loolbs. ; 9 pieces of beef weighing 90 
 Ibs. lost in baking 27 Ibs., or 30 Ibs. in 100 Ibs.; 27 
 legs of mutton weighing 260 Ibs. lost in boiling and 
 by having the shank-bone taken off 62 Ibs. 4 oz. (the 
 shanks weighed 4 oz. each.) The loss in boiling 
 was 55 Ibs. 8 oz. ; the legs of mutton lost 21% Ibs. 
 in :oo Ibs.; 35 shoulders of mutton weighing 350 
 Ibs. lost in roasting 109 Ibs. iooz.; loss of weight 
 in roasting shoulders of mutton is about 31^ Ibs. in 
 too Ibs.; 16 loins of mutton weighing 141 Ibs. lost in 
 roasting 49 Ibs. 14 oz. ; loins of mutton lose by roast- 
 ing about 35}^ Ibs. 100 Ibs.; 10 necks of mutton 
 weighing 100 Ibs. lost in roasting 32 Ibs. 6oz. From 
 the foregoing statement two practical inferences 
 may be drawn: (/)-In respect of economy that 
 it is more profitable to boil meat than to roast it. 
 (2)- Whether we roast or boil meat it loses by being 
 cooked from one-fifth to one-third of its whole 
 weight." 
 
 LOTUS SEEDS Lotus seeds form one of the 
 most common dishes known to the Barri of Central 
 Africa. The pods when gathered are bored and 
 strung on reeds and hung in "the sun for drying, 
 after which they get to the table. 
 
 LOTTES (Fr.) Eel-pouts. 
 
 LOZENGES Candies made without boiling, of 
 powdered sugar, sometimes starch and adultera- 
 tions and gum mucilage, cut out and dried. LEMON 
 ACID LOZENGES Made of 8 oz. icing sugar, % oz. 
 powdered tartaric acid, 10 drops oil of lemon; mixed 
 \v ith mucilage of gum arable into a paste, rolled out 
 and cut into lozenges. (See Licorice.) 
 
 LUCULLUS Often named in relation to gas- 
 tronomy. A Roman general. Lucullus" suppers 
 cost in our money ten thousand dollars each. He 
 was perhaps the most refined entertainer among the 
 famous few whose names are immortal because of
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 365 
 
 LYO 
 
 their extravagance. BOUDINS DE VOLAILLE A LA 
 LUCULI.US Quenelles of chicken forcemeat with 
 puree of truffles in the center of each. They are 
 formed with two spoons, poached, glazed and 
 colored in the oven, served in a shape of fried bread 
 with aliemande sauce. FILLETS DE BECASSES A LA 
 LUCULLUS Breasts of woodcocks coated with force- 
 meat and served on a border of toast with a thick 
 puree of woodcocks in the center and game sauce 
 around. Any dainty and expensive or tedious or- 
 namented dish of birds or small game is designated 
 a la Lucullus by any ambitious chtf, particularly 
 dishes of ortolans or larks with truffles, whether 
 hot or cold. 
 
 LYONNAISE GARNISH For braised meats; 
 consists of stuffed onions, cooked chestnuts, and 
 sliced sausages in the braise liquor and espagnole. 
 
 LYOXNAISE SAUCE Brown onion sauce with 
 a small proportion of tomato sauce mixed in. 
 
 LIVOURNAISE SAUCE Cold, for boiled fish. 
 It is mayonnaise with pounded anchovies and pars- 
 ley worked in. 
 
 M. 
 
 MACARONI There is American macaroni that 
 usually comes loose in the large boxes, and some 
 of it is as good as the imported; it should be tried, 
 however, a small quantity first, for poor macaroni 
 dissolves in the water it is boiled in, and is of no 
 more use than so much flour paste. The difficulty 
 in making seems to be the choice of flour; macaroni 
 needs a particular kind. It is cheap food, compara- 
 tively, as it is dry and in condensed form and with- 
 out waste. MACARONI AU BEURRE Macaroni with 
 butter; the most ordinary way of serving it in Italy. 
 It is not broken much, but thrown at once in boiling 
 salted water and cooked from 15 to 20 minutes, 
 drain, put a piece of butter in the centre and sprinkle 
 cheese over the top; place on the top shelf of a hot 
 oven till thoroughly heated and brown on top. 
 MACARONI AND CuEESE-Boiled macaroni with but- 
 ter, salt and grated cheese mixed together hot, and 
 served plain. MACARONI A LA CARDINAL Maca- 
 roni and lobster, made by putting a layer of boiled 
 macaroni in a dish, a layer of lobster butter, then a 
 layer of white sauce, then grated cheese, and repeat- 
 ing till the dish is full, with pieces of lobster and 
 truffles on top; made hot without browning. MACA- 
 RONI A LA DOMINICAINE Boiled macaroni with 
 puree of mushrooms and anchovies. MACARONI 
 AND KIDNEYS Sliced kidneys fried, tomato sauce 
 added, layer of macaroni, layer of kidneys and sauce, 
 macaroni on top; chopped hard-boiled eggs and 
 grated cheese to finish; baked enough to melt the 
 cheese on top. ENGLISH MUSTARD AND MACARONI- 
 "The dressing and the eating of macaroni are very 
 imperfectly understood in England. It is usually 
 served at the end of the dinner; it should be one of 
 the earliest dishes partaken of; few cooks know how 
 to boil it, and send it to table either of the consist- 
 ency of pap, or underdone and leathery. Finally, 
 
 MAC 
 
 at some English tables this delicious, wholesome 
 article of food has inflicted upon it the dire outrage 
 of being ate with mustard. Mustard with macaroni! 
 As well might one eat strawberry-cream with chili 
 vinegar." BUTTERED MACARONI Put a piece of 
 fresh butter the size of an egg into a well -warmed 
 deep dish; lay on it about half a pound of boiled 
 macaroni, well drained; turn it over, as a salad is 
 'worked,' with two forks adding during the process 
 plenty of fresh-grated Parmesan cheese. BAKED 
 MACARONI A pound af macaroni boiled in salted 
 water; drained; pepper, salt, i pt. cream sauce, 6 oz. 
 butter, 6 oz. cheese; mixed; in baking dish with 
 cream sauce spread on top, cheese, crumbs, bits but- 
 ter; baked brown. FONDUE A LA NAPOLITAINE 
 Short macaroni boiled; fondue of cheese, eggs, and 
 butter stirred together till hot, not boiled ; poured 
 over the macaroni in a dish. MACARONI AU 
 GRATIN Same as baked macaroni. MACARONI A 
 LA CREME Boiled macaroni in cream-sauce con- 
 taining grated cheese. MacARONi A L'ITALIENNE- 
 With brown gravy, butter and cheese. MACARONI 
 WITH TOMATOES Macaroni mixed with cheese and 
 butter, tomato sauce poured over; simmered in the 
 oven covered with buttered paper; served with fried 
 croutons. MACARONI WITH OYSTERS Oysters cut 
 in pieces after scalding, cream sauce made with the 
 thickened oyster-liquor added, and the oysters in 
 layers with boiled macaroni; bread -crumbs and but- 
 ter on top. MACARONI AND FISH Same as with 
 oysters, using flakes of boiled cod, salmon or snapper. 
 MACARONI A LA GENOISE Macaroni served with 
 tomato sauce without baking; grated Parmesan 
 cheese sprinkled on top. CROQUETTES OF MACA- 
 RONI AU FROMAGE Bunches of sticks of macaroni 
 parboiled, taken hot and laid straight with plentiful 
 grated cheese among the sticks, rolled up in buttered 
 cloth and cooked in fish kettle; when cold, the bunch 
 of sticks of macaroni adhering together is cut off in 
 lengths of croquettes, breaded and fried; tomato 
 sauce. TIMBALES OF MACARONI Like a macaroni 
 pie. (/) Macaroni in long sticks cooked in a fish- 
 kettle; when cool, coiled like straw in a buttered 
 mould or deep pan to make a close lining; filled in- 
 side with chicken forcemeat, steamed, turned out; 
 served with sauce. (2) Mould lined with short 
 lengths of macaroni built up with ends outwa-ds 
 like honeycomb; filled with macaroni, cheese, egg 
 and butter mixture; steamed; turned out whole; 
 sauce, (j) Mould lined with pie-paste previously 
 decorated with shapes of yellow nouilles paste stuck 
 on with butter, filled with macaroni-and-cheese 
 mixture; baked, and turned out whole. TIMBALE 
 DE MACARONI A LA FLORENTINE Sweetened 
 macaroni or macaroni -pudding baked in a crust of 
 paste to turn out whole; sweet sauce with raisins. 
 MACARONI SOUPS Numerous. (See Soups.) 
 
 MACAROONS Small drop-cakes made princi- 
 pally of sugar and almonds; hut there are various 
 kinds. (/) One pound flour, J^ Ib. butter, i Ib. 
 pounded sugar, 3 eggs, 20 drops of any essence, J
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 MAC 
 
 teaspoonful ammonia; mix well in the order named; 
 drop pieces, the size of a walnut, on to buttered 
 sheets, and bake a pale color in a cool oven. The 
 ammonia is best dissolved in 2 teaspoonfuls of milk, 
 and almond is the most appropriate flavoring. 
 (2) One-half pound crushed and sifted almonds, % 
 Ib. sugar, 2 oz. rice-flour or starch, 5 whites; stirred 
 up into a paste, dropped on paper, baked in cool 
 oven. (See Almonds, Cocoanut.) MACAROON TARTS- 
 Patty pans lined with thin sweet tart- paste, little 
 jam in them, above almond -macaroon mixture on 
 top; baked in slack oven. MACAROON CUSTARDS 
 Macaroons dipped in brandy, placed in buttered 
 cups, strong custard to fill up, steamed or slack- 
 baked, and turned out whole to serve; pink sauce 
 with wine. MACAROON ICECREAM Almond mac- 
 aroons crumbled in ice cream make a fine bisque of 
 almonds. MACAROON CAKE Sheet of genoise cake 
 baked; almond -macaroon mixture laid across with a 
 tube; slack baked, jelly or jam dropped in the lat- 
 tice-work spaces; to serve whole or cut in squares. 
 
 MACE The inner coat of the nutmeg, between 
 the nutmeg and the outside shell, is called mace. It 
 is a good flavoring for meats and cream soups, as 
 well as puddings and sweets, if used sparingly. For 
 the meat kitchen it is generally needed in blades or 
 the unground state; the ground spice goes into 
 mincemeat, puddings, and cakes. 
 
 MACEDOINE A mixture of several kinds of 
 vegetables or fruits. MACEDOINE VEGETABLES 
 Are put up in cans like any other vegetables; can be 
 obtained at the fancy grocery stores. The vegetables 
 are cut \\itiijardinierf machines all to one size and 
 quite small. There are carrots, turnips, peas, string 
 beans and other kinds in the mixture, the object be- 
 ing to secure a variety of colors. This mixture in 
 hot gravy makes the macedoine garnish to go with 
 cutlets or other meats; or, with oil, vinegar and sea- 
 sonings, -makes the macedoine salad. MACEDOIXE 
 OF FRUIT Several kinds of fruit in a compote, or 
 charlotte, or meringue. MACEDOINE DE FRUITS EN 
 GELEE A mould of alternate layers of different 
 fruits filled up with jelly. 
 
 MACKEREL Choice fish plentiful on both sides 
 the Atlantic. Says GRIMOD DE LA REYNIERE: The 
 mackerel has this in common with good women he 
 is loved by all the world, he is welcomed by rich 
 and poor with the same eagerness. He is most com- 
 monly eaten a la mailre d" 'hot 'el, but he may be pre- 
 pared in a hundred ways, and he is as exquisite 
 plain as in the most elaborate dressing. THE PER- 
 FECT WAY " There is but one perfect way of cook- 
 ing mackerel split him in the back, broil him, and 
 serve him with maitre d' 'hotel butter. Still better, 
 take his fillets and serve in the same way." MACK- 
 EREL IN SEASON Mackerel which are taken in May 
 and June are superior in flavor to those caught either 
 earlier in the spring, or in the autumn. They are 
 best a la maitre d'hote!. To enjoy the flavor of 
 these fish, they should not be washed, but wiped 
 
 MAD 
 
 clean and dry with a cioth. BROILED MACKEREL 
 The fish laid open by splitting down the back, the 
 back bone taken out. Juice of % lemon squeezed over 
 each fish, after drying it, also salt and pepper, broiled 
 over clear coals, skin side down at first, butter over. 
 STEWED MACKEREL Clean and cut a fresh mack- 
 erel into four pieces, and take out the bone. Have 
 ready a pint of melted butter, seasoned with a little 
 salt, mace, end cayenne. Throw in the thin rind of 
 J^ lemon, and the juice also. Stew the fish in 
 the sauce twenty minutes, and just before serving 
 add a dessertspoonful of anchovy sauce and a little 
 mustard. MACKEREL A LA FLAMANDE Clean the 
 fish and stuff with butter mixed with chopped shal- 
 lots,- chives, lemon-juice, salt and pepper; wrap in 
 sheets of buttered paper, tie up the ends with string, 
 and broil over a slow fire for twenty-five minutes; 
 remove the covers and serve. BAKED MACKEREL 
 WITH VINEGAR Cut off the heads and tails, open 
 and clean the fish, and lay them in a deep pan with 
 a few bay leaves, whole pepper, half a teaspoonful 
 of cloves, and a whole teaspoonful of allspice, pour 
 over them equal quantities of vinegar and water, 
 bake for an hour and a half in a slow oven, and serve 
 when cold. Herrings are also nice prepared in this 
 way. ROLLED MACKEREL The fish laid open, back 
 bone removed, and head. Rolled up, tail outwards, 
 cooked as baked mackerel with vinegar, with plate 
 or top to hold them in shape. Served cold. MA- 
 QUEREAUX A L'EAU DE SEL Mackerel plain boiled 
 in salted water. MAQUEREAUX GRILLES Atr BEURRE 
 XOIR Mackerel broiled, served with black butter 
 sauce. MAQUEREAUX AUX GROSEILLES VERTES 
 Mackerel stuffed with green gooseberries, pieces of 
 herring, etc., boiled and served with green goose- 
 berry sauce. FILETS DE MAQUEREAUX A LA VENI- 
 TIENNE Boneless sides of mackerel served in brown 
 sauce with tarragon, chervil, truffles, and port wine. 
 BOILED MACKEREL Cut in halves boiled in water 
 containing onion, parsley, white wine, salt, pepper 
 for 15 minutes, served with ravigote sauce, or with 
 caper sauce, parsley sauce or other, which gives 
 the name. MACKEREL BALLS Of salt mackerel 
 made same as codfish balls. SALT MACKEREL 
 There are 3 or more grades, the largest are the best; 
 can be freshened most completely by soaking in 
 milk. Are cut up and boiled a very few minutes, 
 served with plain butter or with mustard sauce. 
 Broiled they are buttered and garnished with lemon 
 and parsley. 
 
 MADEIRA BUNS i Ib. flour, 10 oz. butter, 7 
 oz. sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, % oz. ground 
 ginger, 3 eggs, tablespoonful of sherry. Cream 
 and mix as for cakes, put one tablespoonful in small 
 moulds or patty pans, and bake in a moderate oven; 
 strip of citron on top of each. 
 
 MADEIRA CAKE Plain pound cake by another 
 name, made of 12 oz. sugar, 10 oz. butter, 10 eggs, I 
 Ih. flour, i teaspoon baking powder, ground mace Or 
 other flavor, baked in shallow cake moulds.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 367 
 
 MAD 
 
 MADEIRA SAUCE Wine sauce of two kinds, 
 either savory or sweet, both having Madeira wine 
 in them. (/)-Broth thickened with butter and flour, 
 a pickled lemon cut up in it, little more butter beaten 
 in, glass of wine, nutmeg; for fish, or boiled meat 
 or fowl. 0)-Puddmg sauce with Madeira. MA- 
 DEIRA PUDDING A jam pudding steamed, made in 
 a deep round pan; a sheet of short paste is laid in 
 the bottom, a layer of jam on that, then another 
 sheet of paste, then jam of a different color, and so 
 on to fill the pan like a jelly cake of paste and jam. 
 Steamed 2 or 3 hours. Cream for sauce. 
 
 MADELEINES (/) Small cakes of the genoise 
 cake sort, baked in patty pans or madeleine moulds ; 
 like madeira buns, but richer, made of % Ib. each of 
 butter, sugar, flour and eggs and wineglassful of 
 brandy. (2)-The same with currants, mixed peel, 
 and sultanas added. 
 
 MADONNA PUDDING Steamed pudding of 
 12 oz. bread-crumbs, 8 oz. sugar, 8 oz. finely chopped 
 suet, grated rind of i lemon, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoons 
 brandy. To be beaten industriously together with 
 a wooden spoon; steamed 3 or 4 hours. 
 
 MAGENTAS Small sort of sponge cakes baked 
 in narrow tins; made of i Ib. sugar, 12 eggs, ^ Ib. 
 flour, almond and orange flavoring, 6 oz. butter; 
 whipped up separately as for sponge cake, butter 
 softened and beaten in, whites last of all, chopped 
 almonds on top. 
 
 MAIDS OF HONOR A puff-paste tartlet with 
 a cheese-cake filling is popular in England under 
 that name, and two or three special makers of it 
 have realized a competency. At one place this 
 dainty has been produced for 200 years, the secret of 
 the mixture bequeathed from father to son. " Mr. 
 J. T. B., confectioner, of Richmond, sends us a box 
 of the delicious little cakes associated for nearly two 
 centuries with the famed Thames-side resort They 
 are admirable eating, but at this time of year are all 
 the better for being warmed. As to the origin of 
 their curious name, Mr. B. informs us two explan- 
 ations are current: one, that the maids of honor who, 
 in the old court days of Richmond, used to frequent 
 the shop where the cakes were originally made, 
 suggested the name; the other, that the recipe ema- 
 nated from a maid of honor." 
 
 MAITRE D'HOTEL (Fr.)-Steward or head- 
 waiter; the head man of a restaurant, next to the 
 proprietor. 
 
 MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE OR BUTTER 
 (/)-The almost universal sauce with broiled fish and 
 other broiled meat c . It is nothing but butter soft- 
 ened and stirred up with chopped parsley and lemon 
 juice in no particular measure; looks pale green; 
 used cold or at ordinary room temperature to spread 
 on hot fish. (2)-HoT MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE 
 The cold sauce thrown into a saucepan with little 
 water is slightly thickened with flour, to form a 
 semi-transparent parsley sauce for new potatoes 
 a la maitre a 'hotel and for boiled fish. 
 
 MAL 
 
 MAITRE D'HOTEL (a fa) Boiled fish sprin- 
 kled with chopped parsley, or capers or other green 
 and the above, hot sauce poured over it; and broiled 
 fish or meat with cold maitre d' hotel butter are so 
 denominated. Plain boiled potatoes quartered be- 
 long to the style with boiled fish, and lemons with 
 broiled. 
 
 MALDIVE FISH Mummalon fish or "Bombay 
 duck," an East Indian fish; canned, sold at the 
 fancy grocery stores. 
 
 MALLARD DUCK The largest American wild 
 duck, the original stock of the tame duck of the 
 same name and markings. This duck is extremely 
 plentiful in the lake region in the fall season ; car- 
 loads are brought to Chicago where the surplus is 
 kept in a frozen state for sale in the spring when 
 other game is out of season. The mallard is among 
 water fowl what the prairie hen is among the vari- 
 eties of the grouse family, the fleshiest, heaviest, 
 tenderest, and in a general way the most valuable. 
 Stewards sending for game by the barrel do well to 
 order mallards. MALLARD DUCK A L'AMERICAINE- 
 Ducks roasted rare in about 25 or 30 minutes, carved, 
 pieces between two dishes kept hot; bones boiled 
 with aromatics, brown gravy added to the liquor, 
 currant jelly and port wine. (See Ducks.) 
 
 MALT The baker who makes his own yeast uses 
 malt perhaps twice a month to make his stock yeast, 
 the process for which is much the same as brewing 
 beer, though the product is very much condensed. 
 Malt can generally be purchased at the nearest 
 brewery. WHAT MALT Is Malt is barley that has 
 been sprouted and started to growing by being 
 sprinkled with water in a warm place; in this condi- 
 tion it turns parti}- to sugar, the starch in the seed 
 changing to sweetness. At the right stage, before 
 the sprout turns green, the barley is dried on a hot 
 metal floor with a constant stirring. It is then malt. 
 Other grains are treated in the same way for pur- 
 poses of distillation; thus there is malted wheat and 
 malted rye. MALT BREAD Specialty or novelty. 
 Bread made with a proportion of the flour from 
 malted wheat. MALT BROWN BREAD English pat- 
 ent. "The digestive quality of malted barley are 
 fully recognized, and the idea of blending it with 
 granular wheat-flour in the bakery has proved a 
 happy one, for the resulting bread, while appetizing 
 and well flavored, is soft and moist even after sev- 
 eral days' keeping." MALT WINE "There is a 
 great craze at present for malt wine. Some years 
 ago it was very fashionable when the malt coffees 
 and malt breads first began to tickle the palates of 
 the epicures. It is beginning to look up again, as 
 some of the great lights of the medical profession 
 have been recommending it to august patients." 
 Made of 14 Ibs. loaf sugar, 9 qts. boiling water 
 poured upon it, and6gls. sweet wort from the brew- 
 ers; remains in a mash-tub to ferment for 2 days; 
 then put into a keg with another pound sugar and 
 ij^ Ibs. raisins; to be filled up daily as it ferments
 
 368 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 MAX 
 
 and runs over, i oz. gelatine dissolved and whipped 
 to froth added ; bunged tight ; bottled 6 months after. 
 Instead of brewers' sweet wort, 8 gls. water, hot, 
 on a bushel of malt and J^ Ib. hops, boiled and 
 strained. 
 
 MAXDARIX ORAXGE A small variety of or- 
 ange; very sweet; flattened somewhat in shape. 
 Gives the name "mandarine" to jellies, and orna- 
 mental pieces formed of candied oranges. 
 
 MAXGO Fruit of the West Indies, Florida, and 
 Mexico. "One of the most delicious products of the 
 tropics is the mango, the eating of which, however,* 
 is apt at first to embarrass- and perplex a stranger to 
 no small degree. In shape the mango resembles a 
 pear with the ste.m at the wrong end, flattened, how- 
 ever, like a bean, and with the small end turned over 
 to one side, something like the figures common on 
 cashmere shawls. One large variety is entirely yel- 
 low, and a smaller kind is yellow with rich red 
 cheeks, offering tempting hues for a still-life painter. 
 Inside is a very large seed, which forms a consider- 
 able impediment to the enjoyment of the inexperi- 
 enced, for the pulp is joined to this in a stringy way, 
 and it is difficult to handle the slippery thing. A 
 thoroughly ripe mango has a kind of combination of 
 muskmelon and baked custard aspect and texture to 
 its deep yellow pulp, and its rich flavor is indescrib- 
 able, except that, when eaten for the first time, it 
 seems to have a slight trace of turpentine, which re- 
 semblance, however, disappears on acquaintance. 
 The large yellow variety seemed to me to have a vsry 
 slight and delicate flavor of peanut candy. The per- 
 son who eats mango for the first time generally cov- 
 ers himself with confusion and his face with mango 
 pulp and jtiicej which is very sticky and yellow, so 
 that he looks as if somebody had been feeding him 
 with soft-boiled eggs in the dark. It will not do to 
 eat a mango as one would an ordinary fruit, the cor- 
 rect way being to use, a mango- fork, which has but 
 one tine, and therefore is really not a fork at all, but 
 a spit. With this the fruit is impaled at one end 
 and the point thrust firmly in the seed, which may 
 thus be stripped of its last pulp without soiling the 
 fingers." 
 
 MAXGO PICKLES Xot the mango of the 
 tropics, but stuffed young melons or cucumbers. 
 The cucumbers or young muskmelons have a piece 
 cut out to admit a spoon and the inside scooped out; 
 they are filled with a variety of other small kinds of 
 pickling vegetables, with horse-radish, mustard 
 seed, etc., the cut piece replaced, tied or sewed, then 
 put through the usual pickling process of pouring 
 boiling vinegar on them 4 successive davs. 
 
 MAX GOSTEEX "Travelers in Java have filled 
 pages and columns with rhapsodies over the mango- 
 steen, and all unite in extolling it as the supreme 
 delight of the tropics. The mangosteen appears to 
 one as a hard round fruit the size of a peach. Its 
 hard outer shell or rind is of the same color and 
 thickness as a green walnut, hut in this brown husk 
 
 MAR 
 
 lie six or eight segments of creamy white pulp. 
 I The little segments are easily separated, and trans- 
 ferred to the mouth melt away, the pulp being as 
 soft and fine as custard. The mangosteen's delicate 
 pulp tastes, as all its eulogists say, like strawberries, 
 peaches, bananas, and oranges all at once; a slight 
 tartness is veiled in these delicious flavors, and it is 
 never cloyingly sweet. Taken just as it comes from 
 the ice box the mangosteen is an epicure's dream 
 realized, and the more's the pity that it only grows 
 in far-away places and deadly climates, and does 
 not bear transportation." " It is an old story," says 
 an author, "that the traditional resident of Calcutta 
 thought it worth a man's wh le to make the voyage 
 from England to Calcutta by the Cape of Good 
 Hope and back only to eat one mango at the proper 
 season. But the majority will probably concur with 
 me that the fruit of the East the mangoes, leeches, 
 guavas, custard -apples, tipparees, and pomegran- 
 ates can bear no comparison with the fruit of the 
 West. 
 
 MAXISTEE FISH "One of the leading restau- 
 rants at Chicago had a novelty on its bill of fare 
 last week, it being the first time that Manistee beef 
 was ever placed before the Chicago public. Though 
 called beef, it is in fact the flesh of a fish extremely 
 rare in these parts. The Manistee is a fish the size 
 of a sturgeon, found only in the Manistee river, in 
 Florida. It is sightless, but acute of hearing. It is 
 speared by the negroes, by whom it is highly prized 
 as food, and occasionally is to be found in the mar- 
 kets of Xew Orleans and Mobile, but is seldom 
 fouv.d in this locality. The flesh is coarse and much 
 resembles beef, though retaining the fishy flavor. 
 Scientists have never been able to discover the ori- 
 gin of the fish, but inclined to the belief that it rises 
 from some subterranean stream or lake and has in- 
 creased and multiplied in the Manistee river, but, 
 o.ving to its lack of sight, it has not been able to 
 make its way into other bodies of water." 
 
 MAXSFIELD PUDDING Rich bread pudding 
 baked; made of 4 oz. crumbs of French rolls wet 
 with a cup of boiling milk, 2 eggs, 3 oz. suet mixed 
 with i tablespoon flour, 4 spoons currants, 2 spoons 
 sugar, i spoon cream, i spoon brandy, nutmeg; all 
 beaten together for 5 minutes. 
 
 MAQUEREAU (Fr.) Mackerel. 
 
 MARASCHIXO A cordial made from the seed 
 of a particular sort of Italian cherry, with syrup 
 and spirits of wine. It is one of the most admired 
 flavorings for jellies, creams, charlotte russe, ices, 
 and sweet sauces. It is, however, difficult to get 
 the genuine, and the flavor of the imitations, though 
 pleasant, is not so remarkable. It comes in quart 
 flasks in wicker coverings, price about $2 per flask. 
 BRITISH MARASCHINO Is made from 2 Ibs. of 
 lump sugar made into clear syrup with i pt. of 
 water, a half-ounce bottle of almond essence, I 
 bottle of cherry syrup prepared without acid; one 
 tablespoonful of elder flower -vater, color up to the
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 369 
 
 MAR 
 
 proper maraschino color if too f.iint, bottle and seal 
 with red wax. This is easily and quickly made, and 
 is sold under the name of British maraschino. 
 SOUFFLE GLACE AU MARASQUIN An iced souffle 
 with maraschino. GELEE AU MARASQUIN Mara- 
 schino jelly. 
 
 MARBLE CAKE Cake having marble streaks 
 of another color of cake all through it, as white 
 cake with veins of chocolate interspersed, or pound 
 cake with pink wine cake. 
 
 MARBLE CREAM Any of the gelatine creams 
 broken apart and moulded solid again by pouring 
 in warm melted cream of another color to make 
 veins and screaks. 
 
 MARBLE GENOISE- A sheet of genoise cake 
 spread with white water icing and streaked with 
 colored icing while still wet. 
 
 MARCASSIX "Marcassin is, in French sports- 
 man's phraseology, a young wild boar. Its saddle 
 is served roasted and carefully larded. Wild boar is 
 just at present being greatly eaten in Paris, and is 
 seen at all the better-class magasins de comestibles. 
 At most it is sold ready-larded, at prices varying 
 from i franc 60 centimes to 2 francs 40 centimes the 
 pound." 
 
 MARINADE A bath of oil and vinegar or 
 lemon juice, together with some aromatics, such as 
 bay -leaves, thyme, onion, or according to the kind 
 of meat to be marinaded or pickled, and salt and 
 pepper. The use of it is to steep meat or fish an hour 
 or more before coqking to give them flavor and suc- 
 culency. A dish of pieces of cooked brains, chick- 
 ens or other cold meat steeped in this and afterwards 
 in batter and fried, is called a marinade of that par- 
 ticular kind of meat. 
 
 MARLBOROUGH CAKES- Dry kind of sponge 
 cake with caraway seeds; baked in long tins; some- 
 times sliced and dried in the o%'en for wine rusks. 
 Made of i Ib. sugar, 8 eggs beaten % hour, i Ib. 
 flour, 2 oz. caraway seeds. Also makes good lady- 
 fingers. 
 
 MARMALADE Word generally used in this 
 country instead of jam. All kinds of fruit are boiled 
 with sugar to the condition of jam or marmalade. 
 
 MARROXS (Fr.) -Chestnuts. 
 
 MARROXS GLACES Candied chestnuts. (See 
 Crystallized Fruits.) "One set of workers skin the 
 chestnut, carefully separating it from the inner husk. 
 They then pass through a number of other hands in 
 the preserving process, and when complete they are 
 turned over to yet another set of women to be put in 
 neat boxes, or tied up in dainty glazed paper-bags." 
 
 MARROW Only obtained in quantity large 
 enough to cook from the leg-bones of beef, espec- 
 ially the bone in the round. MARROW TOAST Mar- 
 row cut thin, seasoned, laid close together upon toast, 
 baked on top-shelf of oven; served hot. MARROW 
 AUX FINES HERBES Marrow scalded a few min- 
 utes in hot water, taken up and cooled, broken up 
 
 MAS 
 
 and mixed with chopped mushrooms, parsley, onion; 
 bread-crumbs in the bottom of buttered paper cases, 
 marrow mixture to fill up, crumbs on top; baked 15 
 minutes; served on a napkin. MARROW PATTIES 
 Chopped marrow seasoned, cream, beaten egg; patty 
 pans lined with puff paste; marrow filling; baked. 
 MARROW QUENELLES Half pound each marrow 
 and bread-crumbs, i small tablespoon flour, 5 yolks, 
 i egg, salt, pepper; work up to smooth paste, shape 
 with two teaspoons, poach in boiling salt water. 
 For garnishing, for soups, or served with sauce in 
 a vegetable border. MARROW DUMPLINGS Mar- 
 row from two beef bones chopped and melted, 2 eggs, 
 salt, pepper, little nutmeg, crushed soda-crackers 
 enough to make paste of it; boiled in sjnall balls; to 
 serve with meat or soup. MARROW SAUCE FOR 
 STEAKS Brown sauce made with chopped shallots, 
 butter, white wine, espagnole. salt, pepper, parsley; 
 beef-marrow in slices dipped in,boiling water in a 
 strainer 1 for a minute, spread on the steaks ; the sauce 
 poured over and around. MOELLE DE BCF.UF A LA 
 ORLY Beef marrow cut in long strips, dipped in 
 batter and fried ; tomato sauce. BOUCHEES A LA Mo- 
 K:.LE Small patties (vol-au-rents) filled with mar- 
 row chopped and simmered in a savory sauce of 
 cream, shallot, chives, etc. PETITES CROUSTADES 
 A LA MOELLE The same as for bouchees; filled into 
 little cases of fried bread; crumbs on top; browned. 
 MARROW PUDDING A sweet pudding steamed; 
 made same as plain plum pudding, using melted 
 marrow instead of suet or butter. 
 
 MARROW FRANGIPAXE Not made of mar- 
 row; only a name of almond pastry custard baked in 
 center of a rice -paste-lined mould, sugared over the 
 ontside when done. A timbale of almond frangi- 
 pane. 
 
 MARSHMALLOW An edible plant; the roots 
 are sliced, boiled and candied. 
 
 MARSHMALLOW CAXDY A name and im- 
 itation; made like gum drops, of 2 Ibs. each gum 
 arabic, fine sugar, water and glucose; the gum pul- 
 verized and dissolved in the water, glucose and 
 sugar added, S.nd boiled on a very slow fire; 3 whites 
 to every pound beaten light and mixed in, and the 
 whole beaten for }^ hour; forced through a tube into 
 starch moulds, cut from the nozzle of the forcer with 
 a knife. 
 
 MARZIPANS Massepains. 
 
 MASSEPAINS Almond paste cakes made of 12 
 oz. sweet almonds, ij^lbs. powdered sugar, 4 whites. 
 Almonds blanched, dried, pounded in a mortar with 
 the white of eggs, sugar pounded into them, makes 
 a paste which is forced through a lady -finger tube 
 in a cord on powdered sugar, formed in rings and 
 curves on pans; baked in a nearly cold oven. GER- 
 MAN MASSEPAINS OR MARCHPANES One pound 
 sweet almonds, i oz. bitter almonds, i Ib. sugar, 
 little rose-water: almonds pounded with rose-water, 
 stirred with sugar in saucepan over the.fire till a firm
 
 370 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 MAT 
 
 paste; when cool, rolled out in powdered sugar, cut 
 in cakes, slightly baked. 
 
 MATELOTK A fish-stew, consisting of a prin- 
 cipal fish in large pieces, with oysters, mussels, but- 
 ton mushrooms, button onions, etc., and wine; to 
 serve as a garnish. MATELOTE SAUCE Brown; 
 button onions glazed by frying in butter and sugar, 
 flour added, and broth, herbs, seasonings, wine; 
 herbs taken out, and extract of meat, essence of an- 
 chovy, coloring, mushrooms and oysters added. 
 M ATELOTE NORM ANDE-Cream -colored; white sauce 
 made of fish-broth and oyster-liquor thickened with 
 yolks; lemon juice, butter, mushrooms, oysters, 
 scallops, mussels, shrimps, crav-fish, little white 
 wine. Serves as sauce and garnish, to fish en Mate- 
 lote Normande. 
 
 MAUVIETTE (Fr.) Lark. Same as alouette. 
 Different names equivalent to meadow -lark, sky- 
 lark. (See Alouette, Lark.) 
 
 MAYONNAISE Salad sauce; also cold sauce 
 for fish. Made by putting into a bowl two or more 
 raw yolks, little dry mustard, and stirring in drop by 
 drop olive-oil, then some salt, then lemon juice or 
 vinegar, also by drops alternately with the oil, con- 
 tinuing to thicken it by adding oil and thinning with 
 vinegar and lemon juice until sufficient; must be 
 twice as much oil used as vinegar. Two points to 
 observe are to begin stirring the yolks with only a 
 few drops of oil at the start; and, to add the salt after 
 one-third the oil is in. A teaspoon powdered sugar 
 and pinch cayenne to finish; 2 yolks will take up a 
 cupful of oil. The sauce should be thick enough to 
 spread over a dome of salad without running off. It 
 becomes firmer by standing on ice a while. 
 
 MAYONNAISE ASPIC-Good.firm aspic-jelly 
 barely melted stirred into an equal quantity of ma- 
 yonnaise. It makes a glossy yellow mayonnaise- 
 jelly for ornamental cold-meat dishes and salads. 
 
 MAYONNAISES Term equivalent to salads. 
 All dishes dressed with mayonnaise. A mayonnaise 
 of lobster, of salmon, of chicken, of shrimps. Some 
 salads have no such sauce, or dressing, therefore the 
 term is distinctive. 
 
 MAZARINS Moulds of fish, fillets of chicken or 
 anything similar, set with aspic jelly or aspic mayon- 
 naise, and turned out when cold. 
 
 M AZ ARIN CAKE A raised loaf of butter cake, 
 not sweet, baked in a mould lined with almonds, cut 
 in halves, and rum pudding sauce poured over it. 
 
 MEAD Honey wine. "In the time of King Ar- 
 thur and his Knights of the Round Table, the drink 
 that was prepared for royal use was 'mead.' Mead 
 kept its place at the tables of the rich and the great 
 for a considerable time, and yet for centuries it seems 
 to have fallen quite out of account. It is as little 
 thought of now as nepenthe, the drink of the gods 
 on Mount Olympus; and yet mead, we believe, can 
 be made a very pleasant drink. A continental paper 
 gives a recipe for its preparation. Honey is the 
 
 MEL 
 
 sweetening constituent used. Forty to forty -five 
 litres of water are put into a cauldron, with 10 litres 
 honey; boil the mixture for i % hours, during which 
 time skim off the scum. The liquid is then put into 
 a cask to ferment for 3 weeks." "The natives of 
 Madagascar make a honey wine which is composed 
 of three parts water to one part honey. They boil the 
 water and honey together, and skim after the mix- 
 ture is reduced to three-fourths. It is then put in 
 pots of black earth to ferment. It has a pleasant 
 tartish taste, but is very luscious." ENGLISH MEAD- 
 Ten pounds honey, 6 gls. water, few mixed spices; 
 boiled an hour; when cool, some yeast spread on 
 toast put in. When fermentation ceases, the keg 
 bunged up, kept in a cellar; bottled after 6 months. 
 
 MECCA LOAVES Boston cream-puffs. 
 
 MEDAILLONS (Fr.) Medallions. Small round 
 shapes of potted meat, or jellied meat, like pats of 
 butter; decorated. MEDAILLONS DE FOIE GRAS 
 Biscuit-shapes of pate de foie ffras variously orna- 
 mented. 
 
 MELEE CREAM For cakes and pastries; made 
 of i Ib. sugar, i doz. eggs whipped together % hour 
 over hot water or slow fire, and J^ hour more on ice; 
 dissolved gelatine, i oz. in J^ cup water, added while 
 mixture is still warm. Spirits, flavoring essences or 
 chopped figs as preferred. It makes a creamy sponge 
 to fill a border-cake with. (See Gateaux.) 
 
 MELON "Although in Europe the melon is 
 generally eaten with salt and pepper after the soup, 
 in this country on account of its fragrance and sweet- 
 ness it is preferred between the cheese and dessert." 
 It is served on a folded napkin with broken ice, the 
 seeds having been removed previously. COMPOTE 
 OF MELON-Canteloupe or muskmelon slightly green 
 sliced, pared, boiled in syrup made of i Ib. sugar to 
 % pt. water, and flavored with wine or lemon; served 
 as compote of fruit with rice or croules. MELON 
 PRESERVE (/) Slices of melon dropped into hot 
 syrup and allowed to remain till next day; the syrup 
 poured off, boiled, poured boiling hot to the melon- 
 slices; repeat for 3 days. (2) Melon -slices steeped in 
 cold water, vinegar and sail 24 hours; drained, put 
 in cold syrup, gradually heated to boiling; taken up, 
 syrup boiled and poured over 3 successive days. 
 MELON MANGOES Small, late melons, green, inside 
 scooped out, put in brine 24 hours, filled up with 
 small onions, beans, cauliflower, etc., and mustard- 
 seed and horseradish; boiling vinegar with spices 
 poured over 5 successive days. MELON SALAD It 
 makes one of the best fruit salads. Peel cut into 
 small blocks; dress it with i tablespoonful of oil, in 
 which you have mixed a small saltspoonful of salt; 
 toss the melon gently in it, then use i or 2 more 
 spoonfuls of oil, according to the quantity of fruit 
 you have, and vinegar in proportion of % the oil; 
 pepper to taste. MELON-WATER ICE Ripe melon 
 pounded through a seive, sugar, water, glucose, 
 lemon juice; frozen. PRESERVED WATER-MELON 
 KIND The rind souked in brine, then in cold water,
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 371 
 
 MEL 
 
 then boiled in strong syrup, with ginger to flavor, 
 makes one of the best of preserves; and if taken from 
 the syrup and dried to the condition of glace fruits, 
 is a most useful ingredient in ornamental pastry and 
 confectionery work. KEEPING MELONS Water- 
 melons are now kept in a frozen state by cold storage. 
 
 MELON MOULDS Tin moulds of graded sizes 
 in the form of a half muskmelon. Can be found at 
 'most large tin and furnishing shops. They are used 
 to steam puddings in, to press salads in to be turned 
 out and spread over afterwards with mayonnaise, to 
 set ornamental jellies and cream in, and to freeze 
 mousses and other ices. 
 
 MENEHOULD, S AINTE Name of a town. 
 "Among French towns, Sainte-Menehould, Mont- 
 lieliard, and Saverne, all possess a special celebrity 
 for the manufacture of comestibles, in which the 
 flesh of swine composes the principal ingredient. A 
 special production of Sainte-Menehould is the pig's 
 foot truffled." 
 
 MERINGUE -Name of the white mixture of 
 sugar and white of egg, which in the soft form is 
 spread over lemon pies and the like, and baked; in a 
 firmer condition is the icing with which cakes are 
 iced and ornamented. SOFT MERINGUE For the 
 tops of puddings, cup custards, etc. ; made of i oz. 
 sugar or little more to each white; white of eggs 
 whipped up separately, sugar stirred in; very slack 
 baked to fawn color. ICING MERINGUE From 3 to 
 6 whites to each pound of sugar; mixed by barely 
 wetting the sugar with 3 or 4 whites and beating 
 with a paddle for 15 or 20 minutes; more whites can 
 , be \vorked in, according to the purpose intended. 
 FRUIT MERINGUES Sheet of cake spread with ripe 
 raw fruit, covered with soft meringue, granulated 
 sugar sifted on top; baked in very slack oven. 
 FLORENTINE MERINGUE Sheet of tart paste spread 
 with marmalade, covered with soft meringue; baked. 
 MERINGUES A LA CREME Stiff meringue having 
 5 or 6 whites worked into the pound of sugar and 
 little acid (see Icinff) dropped on paper on boards, to 
 prevent the bottoms from baking; slack baked, either 
 put by twos together with their own softness inside, 
 or insides scooped out and filled with whipped cream. 
 BORDER MERINGUES- -Stiff meringue laid with a 
 sack and tube forcer in circles size of a saucer on 
 paper, sugar sifted over; baked very light-colored 
 and dry; removed from paper by wetting, rings piled 
 on each other 3 or 4 high, ornamented with icing, 
 center filled with whipped cream, melee cream, or 
 bavarian with strawberries. MERINGUE PANACHEE- 
 Meringue shells filled with ice cream, made same as 
 meringue a la creme above; dried after emptying; 
 served singly like shells filled with different colors 
 of ice cream. MERINGUE A LA PARISIENNE The 
 border meringues above, piped with currant jelly. 
 
 MERLUCHE (Fr.)-Haddock. 
 
 METZELSUP "Every well-regulated Pennsyl- 
 vania-Dutch farmer kills at least two fat pigs every 
 fall. The butchering is a grand affair, and all the 
 
 MEX 
 
 neighbors join in and help. When the hogs are 
 killed, dressed and cut up, certain portions are set 
 apart for those who helped in the butchering, and 
 for gifts to poor widows in the neighborhood. This 
 is distributed with a liberal hand, and is called the 
 metzelsup. The farmer who forgets the metzelsup 
 is looked upon as one for whom perdition surely 
 yawns." METZEL SOUP DINNER "Mr. Thomas 
 Brown, of the Enterprise Hotel, Stapleton, Staten 
 Island, has given a ' metzeJ soup ' dinner this as in 
 previous years. He had a large and happy company 
 present to enjoy his hospitality." 
 
 MEXICAN COOKERY Remarks of friendly 
 
 critics at the Capital. "A fair sample of the dinner 
 
 bill of fare served for a dollar has been presented. 
 
 Here is one for half a dollar, just as taken from the 
 
 table of the Gillow Restaurant: 
 
 ,Sopas. , 
 
 Consome. 
 
 Sopa de pescado. 
 
 Macarroni. 
 
 / Pescados. > 
 
 Huachinango. 
 
 Con alcaparras. 
 
 Huevos al gusto. 
 
 Beefsteaks. 
 
 Costillas de ternera. 
 
 Id. de carnero. 
 
 Id. milanesas. 
 
 Puchero. 
 
 Polla a la Toulousa. 
 Hijaditos de carnero a la lionesa. 
 
 Conejo con ungos. 
 Fricando a la macedonia. 
 Alcachopas a la diabla. 
 Guisado a la napolitana. 
 
 Roast beef. 
 
 Manilas en especia. 
 
 Pierna al horno. 
 
 Frijoles. 
 
 Ejotes. 
 
 Fruta. Duke. Cafe. Te. 
 Piatillos sueltos, uno y medio real. 
 
 Comida Cuatro Reales. 
 
 The explanation at the bottom of the bill is that a 
 single dish, if the customer does not want the whole 
 dinner, will be given for a real and a medio, 18 cents; 
 or everything on the bill will be served for 4 reals, 
 half a dollar. Sopa is the soup, of which three kinds 
 are offered. Pescados is the fish, of course. Huevos 
 the reader already recognizes as eggs. After beef- 
 steaks come the chops, veal, pork, or mutton. Pu- 
 chero is 'boiled,' and/*o//o is enough like poultry to 
 give a clue to what it really is the chicken. Then 
 follow five different kinds of stewed meats, and after 
 these the roasts; and not a few of those dining will 
 : go leisurely through the whole bill, occupying from 
 I one to three hours in the agreeable occupation of 
 getting their money's worth. Frijoles and ejotes are 
 beans and more beans, or baked beans and string 
 ' beans. For fruta the waiter brings a plate of bana- 
 nas, limes, and melons. Diilce is the pudding or 
 sweets and cafe is poured out in the cup before the 
 guest black ceffee until he says 'stop,' and hot milk 
 added until the cup is full. And yet Americans go 
 home and say they cannot get ' a square meal ' in 
 Mexico. Descending thescale, there are the 3 reals.
 
 372 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 MEX 
 
 the 2 reals and the i real restaurants. For 12% cents 
 a wholesome meal may be had in Mexico not elab- 
 orate, but satisfying to a hungry man. And still 
 cheaper are the coffee and lunch stands, where, for a 
 medio (which is a half real, 6cts.) bread, meat, and 
 coffee in generous quantities may be had. A quar- 
 tilla (the fourth of a real, 3 cts.) buys a cup of coffee 
 and a large roll at any one of the hundreds of little 
 coffee houses scattered through the districts where 
 the poorer people live. If there is any criticism to 
 be passed upon the food of the country, it is in the 
 over-abundance of meat dishes. Even the entries 
 are freshly cooked. Mexico is a semi-tropical clime, 
 and f niits abound. Nevertheless it is quite the proper 
 thing to sit down and go through the bill of fare 
 soup, eggs, a beefsteak or a mutton chop, chicken, 
 the roast beef, and so on, finishing with the vegeta- 
 bles, one after the other, for, as already said, the table 
 etiquette of the country prescribes one dish at a time.'' 
 FRUIT FOR BREAKFAST "It is a custom to precede 
 coffee with an indulgence in fruit, which is deli- 
 cious and cheap in this country and is regarded as 
 particularly healthful at this time of day, and the 
 great basketful set before one is tempting enough j 
 in richness, variety of colors and shapes." GRASS- 
 HOPPERS AND SHRIMPS "In the markets of Mex- 
 ico both these lively little creatures are to be found 
 in the same condition as whitebait when it appeals 
 to the palate of the gourmet, viz., fried whole, and 
 they are eaten in the same way." Mexico is now a 
 great center for the manufacture of crystallized 
 fruits. Apples, pears, crab apples, nuts, quinces, 
 peaches, figs, oranges, lemons, limes, guavas, cac- 
 tus leaves, and other varieties of tropical fruits are 
 put up in forms as pleasing to the eye as they are 
 exquisite in taste. A delicious confection is also 
 made from sweet potatoes; another is dried bananas. 
 They are all equal, if they do not excel, the best 
 French preserves and sweets. They are absolutely 
 unadulterated and are very cheap. AN UNFRIENDLY 
 CRITIC IN THE COUNTRY "The reception was held 
 in a large arbor, erected for the purpose, of wild 
 cane -stalks thatched with straw. As usual, the men 
 retained their hats and smoked incessantly between 
 and during every course. Tortillas were continu- 
 ally sent in, hot from the griddle made by women 
 secreted in a hut somewhere in tha rear and piled 
 in a steaming heap in front of the alcadi, who distrib- 
 uted them around with an easy and graceful scuffle, 
 something as an expert player deals his cards. Now 
 and then fresh water was passed in mugs, it being 
 the elegant fashion for each guest to fill his mouth, 
 draw it noisily to and fro between his teeth, then 
 eject it upon the floor. The menu, as nearly as it 
 can be rendered in English, was as follows: 
 
 Cigarettes. 
 
 Caldo (broth) with garlic, chilli and cigarettes. 
 Sopa stewed in grease and garnished with chilli. 
 
 Cigarettes. 
 Pucharo stuff of every description, fish, flesh, and 
 
 fowl, seeds, pods, green fruits, roots and vege- 
 
 tables, all boiled together, served on a huge 
 
 platter, with chilli sauce. 
 
 MIL 
 
 Cigarettes. 
 Chicken stewed with grease and chilli. 
 
 Cigarettes. 
 Kid's head baked with garlic. 
 
 Cigarettes. 
 Red beans baked in oil. 
 
 Cigarettes. 
 Sweetmeats and coffee, with cigarettes. 
 
 Tortillas all the time." 
 
 PUCHARO Water, beef, garbanco;: (chick peas), 
 pork, ham, salt and pepper, leeks, celery, parslev,- 
 mint, cloves, garlic, cabbage, pumpkin, and a larg-e 
 dioriso (Bologna sausage); all boiled for different 
 lengths of time. Peas and meat served together 
 and soup aside. MEXICAN MUTTON' WITH BEANS 
 Leg of mutton with garlic inserted; the outside 
 fried brown, broth and gravy added with chillies, 
 onions, aromatics, simmered in the gravv 2 hours; 
 served with puree of Mexican black beans. TOR- 
 TILLAS Corn cakes. 
 
 MICHAEL ANGELO'S PUDDING Curd of 
 milk turned with rennet, with fruits, boiled like a 
 plum pudding. Made of 2j^ Ibs. firm drained curd, 
 10 eggs, i Ib. raisins, % Ib. each preserved green- 
 gage, apricot and cherries, 6 oz. each sugar and 
 bread-crumbs, 3 oz. citron, i glass each brandy and 
 rum, mixed well, in cloth or mould, boiled or 
 steamed 5 hours; brandy sauce. 
 
 MIGNON, FILET-Minion or small fillet. Some- 
 times in the menu, it means a small tenderloin beef- 
 steak. If of fowl it signifies the smaller of the two 
 natural divisions of the meat of the breast. 
 
 MIGNOXETTE One of the perplexing terms 
 in cookery directions, as it is confounded with a 
 plant of that name. It means pepper broken or 
 coarsely ground, so that it can be strained out of 
 the sauces again and not remain as powdered pepper 
 would. 
 
 MILANAISE GARNISH Strips of macaroni, 
 ham, chicken, truffles, in white sauce with grated 
 Parmesan. Dishes finished with this garnish are 
 a la Milanaise. 
 
 MILK SKIMMED OR WATERED MILK To de- 
 tect whether the cream has been removed to any 
 great extent, the old form of lactometer, now more 
 properly called a creamometer, mav be used. This 
 instrument consists simply of a long tubular glass, 
 divided by markings into one hundred equal parts. 
 The milk to be tested should be poured into this 
 glass up to the topmost division, and set aside for 
 from loto 12 houri in summer, or from 15 to 16 in 
 winter; this will allow ample time for the whole of 
 the cream to arise, and the stratum thus separated 
 ought to measure from 8 to SJ divisions on the 
 glass /. e., good milk should have from S to S% per 
 cent, of cream. If the quantity of cream registers 
 only 6% per cent., .either some of it must have been 
 abstracted, or 33 per cent, of water may have been 
 added to the milk. In like manner 5 per cent, of 
 cream shows that the milk has been robbed of fmm 
 3 to 3/4 P er cent., or diluted with 50 per cent, of 
 water. But the milk of awny varieties of cows is
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 often considerably richer; it reaches in the Alder- 
 ney breed to a.- much as iS per cent., and in certain 
 of the Scandinavian cows, which are fed on the rich 
 mountain pastures during summer and on the same 
 fod;lcr collected in silos in winter, an average quite 
 as high is r/.aintained perpetually. STARCH IN 
 MILK Vi-yv rarely it has been stated that dishonest 
 dealers add starch to the milk to remove the bluish 
 tinge due to previous dilution with water; but this 
 can easily be detected by the addition of a drop or 
 two of tincture of iodine from the medicine chest, 
 which every well-regulated hotel ought to be pro- 
 vided with. If starch be present the milk will turn 
 blue. CHALK IN MILK Sometimes chalk has been 
 added to correct the acidity of milk which has 
 "turned," and aiso to give it "body;" this form of 
 adulteration is happily of very rare occurrence, 
 and can be at once detected by the practiced palate 
 of any one accustomed to the pure article. If sus- 
 p-jcted, the milk should be allowed to stand aside 
 in a quiet place in a tumbler, and, if chalk has been 
 added, a deposit will accumulate. Pour off the top 
 without disturbing the sediment; pour in a little 
 water and allow it to settle. Repeat this again and 
 a white powder will be left, which will effervesce 
 when acid is added to it. As a confirmatory test, add 
 acetic acid to the sediment; it will effervesce and 
 finally dissolve up the chalk, and if to the clear sol- 
 ution thus produced a little oxalate of ammonia sol- 
 ution is poured in, it will finally demonstrate the 
 presence of chalk by throwing down a white pre- 
 cipitate. A GERMAN TEST For watered milk, 
 consists in dipping a well-polished knitting-needle 
 into a deep vessel of milk, and then immediately 
 withdrawing it in an upright position. If the milk 
 is pure, a drop of the fluid will hang to the needle; 
 but the addition of even a small portion of water 
 will prevent the adherence of the drop. CONDENSED 
 MILK Is 4 qts. of cow's milk from which 3 qts. of 
 water are evaporated, leaving i qt. of the solid con- 
 stituents of milk, to which is added a sufficient 
 quantity of sugar to preserve and conserve it. All 
 condensed milk thickens with age in the hermetic- 
 ally sealed can, but a little stirring returns it at once 
 to its former consistency. Milk, although thickened 
 in the can, is in no manner stale nor injured. UN- 
 SWEETENED CONDENSED MILK Is evaporated milk 
 preserved by the addition of boracic acid and other 
 chemicals, which give it a very slight saline taste. 
 It is of the consistency of cream, will keep about a 
 month, and is useful in localities where fresh milk 
 is scarce. It is shipped in cans from the places of 
 manufacture in New York and branch houses. It, 
 of course, needs to be diluted with water, but serves 
 as a substitute for cream as it is. DRIED MILK 
 It is stated that, milk has been successfully solidified 
 and then powdered or made up in lumps. In either 
 form it is claimed to keep well, and henceforth milk 
 is expected to be sold, to some extent, in a dry form 
 like sugar. The desiccated milk, as we may term 
 it, represents fresh cow's milk in the highest form 
 
 MIX 
 
 of concentration, and it may be kept an indefinite 
 time without deterioration. Three varieties are 
 tinned, viz., unskimmed, skimmed, and sweetened 
 milks, and the milk-powder is also combined with 
 coffee, chocolate, and tea to form dry preparations 
 of distinct dietetic value. The milk in powder dis- 
 solves quite readily in warm table beverages. 
 DRIED MILK-PREPARATIONS Milk cannot be con- 
 densed more than three-fourths without some ad- 
 mixture to preserve its solubility, as it all turns to a 
 kind of cheese. It may be kept soluble by the addi- 
 tion of sugar, and to a further degree by the addition 
 of dried white of egg. With these two additions it 
 may be evaporated to dryness, and finally powdered 
 and kept, and dissolves easily. Only skimmed milk 
 should be so prepared; the cream would make it oily 
 and rancid in a short time. With this dried or can- 
 died milk as a basis several culinary preparations in 
 a powdered state can be made, as custard mixtures 
 with dried eggs, blanc- mange with gelatine, etc., 
 needing nothing but hot water in the prescribed pro- 
 portion to make the article as required. MILK SOUP 
 See Soups. MILK SHAKE A good trade is done 
 in this in summer time. A milk shake is % pt. milk 
 in a large lemonade-glass, a spoonful sugar, shaved 
 ice, flavor if requested; covered and shaken to froth. 
 There are machines for shaking them up 3 or 4 at 
 once by the turn of a wheel. MILK PUNCH See 
 Drinks. MILK WINE See Koumiss. 
 
 MILT The soft roe of fish. 
 
 MINCEMEAT Good quality is made of 3 Ibs. 
 boiled beef, 3 Ibs. suet, 4 Ibs. apples, 4 Ibs. raisins, 
 2 Ibs. currants, i Ib. citron, J^ Ib. each lemon and or- 
 ange peel, juice of 4 oranges and 4 lemons, 4 Ibs. 
 sugar, 2 nutmegs, i teaspoon each ground allspice, 
 cloves, cinnamon, mace, pepper, 2 tablespoons salt; 
 ingredients chopped fine; cider enough to moisten. 
 LEMON MINCEMEAT Two lemons, 4 sharp ap- 
 ples, y 2 Ib. suet, i Ib. currants, % Ib. sugar, 2 oz. 
 each candied lemon peel and citron, ^ nutmeg, 
 pinch of mace; the lemons to be pared and rind 
 boiled, then minced; juice added to the other ingre- 
 dients;, no meat; stand a week before using; brandy 
 if desired. 
 
 MINT SAUCE Chopped green mint, vinegar 
 and sugar; mixed and served cold. This is the sauce 
 for cold lamb and mutton in England and France, 
 but is eaten with hot roast lamb in this country where 
 cold meats are not in favor. IMPROVED MINT SAUCE 
 An 'Old Bohemian' observes : '.' When I talk of 
 mint sauce, I do not mean the wretched mess of a 
 few imperfectly chopped dry mint-leaves swimming 
 about in a sea of malt vinegar, with a few grains of 
 raw sugar dissolved in it, which one gets in some 
 dining-rooms, and occasionally even at private ta- 
 bles, and which has its admirers, too, among some 
 chefs and blue ribbons, who coolly tell you that half 
 an ounce of moist sugar will do for five fluid ounces 
 of malt vinegar. I recommend the following recipe: 
 Take a sufficiently large bunch of fresh green young
 
 374 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 MIR 
 
 mint to fill, when finely chopped, two to three table- 
 spoonfuls; chop the rind of a {food-sized lemon very 
 fine, and add it to the mint in a sauce-tureen ; to four 
 ounces of best French vinegar add one ounce and a 
 half of fresh lemon juice, and dissolve in this as 
 much finely powdered best loaf-sugar as it will ab- 
 sorb; pour the solution over the mint in the tureen, 
 and let it stand an hour or so." 
 
 MIREPOIX (Fr >-A brown broth or unthickened 
 gravy made to braise meats in to give them a high 
 flavor; made of veal, bacon, ham, onions, carrots, 
 aromatics, wine, broth, butter, salt, pepper. The 
 meats, etc., cut and fried brown in the butter, wine 
 and broth added, simmered; liquor strained off is the 
 mirepoix. 
 
 MIRLITOXS (Fr.) Tartlets in patty pans with 
 a pastry bottom crust and filled with very rich cus- 
 tard ; much the same as maids of honor. MIRLITONS 
 AUX FLEURS D'ORAXGER Little patties of puff 
 paste filled with a mixture of butter, sugar and eggs 
 worked up together, powdered macaroons added to 
 make a paste of it, candid orange flowers for flavor. 
 MIRLITOXS DE ROUEN Little puff paste patties 
 filled with egg, thick cream and sugar in equal 
 parts, beaten and flavored, sugar sifted plentifully 
 on top as they are put in the oven. 
 
 MIROTON (Fr.) Dish of sliced fish, meat or 
 fruit. MIROTON DE HOMARD Slices of lobster 
 meat dipped in salad sauce and served on salad. 
 MIROTOX DE BCEUF Slices of cooked beef in a dish 
 with savory sauce, covered with bread crumbs and 
 baked. MIROTON DE POMMES Apples cut in ring 
 slices built up in dome form in a baking dish, inside 
 filled with apple and peach marmalade, baked till 
 done, sugar sifted over, served in the same dish with 
 folded napkin around it or paper frill. 
 
 MOCK CRAB Cheese, bread crumbs, butter, 
 vinegar, cayenne and salt, with an egg, made up to 
 resemble devilled crabs, baked in shells. 
 
 MOCK DUCK Thin beef steak covered with 
 duck stuffing, rolled up, tied, cooked tender in gravy 
 in the oven. 
 
 MOCK TURTLE SOUP Made of beef stock 
 with calf's head boiled in it. The head boned and 
 pressed, cut in dice when cold and put in the soup to 
 substitute turtle. (See Soups.') 
 
 MCELLE (Fr.) Marrow. SAUCE MCELLE Mar- 
 row sauce. 
 
 MONSELET, CHARLES "The Prince of Pa- 
 risian gourmets, and one of the few men on whom 
 the mantle of Brillat-Savarin decended, has recent- 
 ly died. Charles Monselet was born at Nantes, and 
 spent his early years in the shop of his father, who 
 was a bookseller. After many struggles he worked 
 his way up to the foremost rank of journalism, and 
 was one of the livelist chroniquerus on art, .letters, 
 and good living in Paris. His articles were full of 
 wit, point, and piquancy. Saint- Beuve used to say 
 
 MON 
 
 to him, 'Resumez vous, Monselet, and write a book.' 
 'There are so many books," was the answer, ' that I 
 abhor to add to thtir number.' Nevertheless the 
 lively chronicler became a voluminous contributor 
 to book literature, w ithout adding in any degree to 
 his reputation as a writer. In order to revive the 
 traditions of Brillat-Savarin and Grimod de leRey- 
 niere, he wrote the 'Almanach des Gourmands,' 
 and the 'Cuisine Poetique.' He also founded a mag- 
 azine, Le Gourmet, which did not live; but Monse- 
 let as has been well said, never invented a new dish 
 nor wrote a solid book." 
 
 MOXTE SAXO CAKE Variation of angel 
 cake. Has butter in it. Equally as white but not 
 quite so woolly. Is shorter eating, better to roll 
 up for white jelly roll. Choice cake in any shape. 
 Made of 42 whites, 2^ Ibs. sugar, ij^ Ibs. flour, } 
 Ib. butter, 4 teaspoons cream tarter; flavoring. 
 Make up like angel cake, have the butter melted, 
 not hot, and beat it in after the flour. 
 
 MOXTPELLIER BUTTER Green butter, 
 served cold as sauce for fish, lobster, etc. Made of 
 green herbs tarragon, chervil, pimpernel, chives 
 scalded, drained and pounded; garlic, capers, hard 
 yolks, anchovies, gherkins, butter, salt, pepper, 
 nutmeg and tarragon vinegar worked into the paste 
 at last. 
 
 MOXKEY " In Spanish Honduras the dish of 
 honor is baked monkey, and sweeter meat you could 
 not imagine. These monkeys live up in the branches 
 of trees and on the vines; their feet never touch the 
 earth beneath them, and they live on the choicest 
 nuts and fruit. No chicken was ever so sweet and 
 tender as baked monkey." "The Anamite Tuduc, 
 just deceased, was a curiosity among Emperors. 
 The two chief institutions of his palace were his 
 harem and his kitchen. He was an old man, and 
 only allowed his sacred face to be seen by manda- 
 rins of high rank. His principal meal consisted of 
 never fewer than twenty courses, among which was 
 his favorite delicacy of roast monkey. He fre- 
 quentlv received a fatted ape from his subjects as a 
 present, and nothing was more acceptable. His 
 manner of daily life was said to be morel uxurious 
 than that of his over lord, the Emperor of China." 
 " Here is a Mandingo (African) bill of fare which 
 Reade, the explorer, leaves on record for the amuse- 
 ment of the curious. ' Then followed,' he says, 
 'gaAlle cutlets a la papillots; two small monkeys, 
 served cross-legged and with liver sauce on toast; 
 stewed iguana, which was much admired ; a dish of 
 roasted crocodile's eggs; some slices of smoked ele- 
 phant (from the interior); a few agreeable plates of 
 fried locusts, land crabs and other crustacae; the 
 breasts of mermaid, or manatee, the grand bonne- 
 bouche of tne repast; some boiled alligator and 
 some hippopotamus steaks.' While this dinner does 
 not equal in courses some of the elaborate feasts of 
 civilized lands, certainly no one will say that it 
 lacked variety."
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 375 
 
 MON 
 
 MONTE SANO PUDDING -Excellent example 
 of a souffle, and one of the best puddings ever made; 
 composed of 3 oz. flour, 3 oz. sugar, 3 oz. butter, 3 
 eggs, i pt. boiling milk. The eggs separated; the 
 yolks, sugar, butter and flour stirred together like 
 
 cake, boilineT milk poured into the mixture. When I 
 
 fa r 
 
 cool, the whites whipped stiff and mixed in; baked in j 
 a pudding dish; wine sauce. It may perhaps require ] 
 a little more milk if too stiff to take in the whites, j 
 Is like yellow sponge cake, but soft. 
 
 MONTREAL PUDDING Steamed raisin pud- | 
 ding, made of i Ib. bread-crumbs, 3 oz. sugar, 6 eggs, j 
 i pt. milk, i Ib. raisins, % Ib. flour; steamed 3 hours. 
 
 MOREL A kind of mushroom with a netted 
 surface, something like a piece of sponge on astern. 
 They are stewed, fried, added to sauces. MORILLES 
 AUX CROUTONS Morels stewed, and served with 
 the sauce on buttered toast. MORILLES A L'ANDA - 
 LOUSE Morels cooked with oil, wine, ham, and 
 served in the sauce. MORILLES A L'ITALIENNE 
 Served with Italian sauce. 
 
 MORUE (Fr.) Salt cod. 
 
 MOTSA BREAD See Jewish Cookery. 
 
 MOULE (Fr.) Mould. MOULE D' ASPIC A LA 
 ROYALE A mould of round slices of chicken, 
 truffles, mushrooms, cock's-combs, white of egg in 
 shapes, cream sauce and aspic jelly to fill up and 
 set it. 
 
 MOULES (Fr.) Mussels. SAUCE MOULES 
 Mussel sauce. 
 
 MOUSSE (Fr.) Moss; froth; something very 
 light and spongy. The term is both to meat prepai - 
 ations and to ice creams; there are mousses of foie 
 gras, the softened paste having whipped cream 
 mixed in it and then made cold, as well as biscuits 
 glaces and mousses glaces. (See Ices. .) MOUSSE ICE- 
 
 INDIVIDUAL MOULD. 
 
 For mousses, muscovites, jellies, etc. 
 
 CREAM Made by putting 8 yolks in a pint of strong 
 sugar syrup (34 degrees) and whipping them over 
 the fire until nearly boiling, but must not quite boil; 
 then set the kettle in ice and salt, and continue whip- 
 ping until nearly frozen; then a pint of thick cream 
 is whipped and mixed into the other, along with 
 whatever flavoring is wanted. It is not frozen in a 
 freezer, nor worked any more, but put in a mould 
 and buried in freezing mixture till wanted. The 
 mould to be lined with thin white paper. MOUSSE 
 
 MUL 
 
 DE HoMARD-Lobster meat with seasonings of lemon 
 juice, etc., pounded through a seive, stirred up with 
 a little butter; when nearly cold, some whipped 
 cream incorporated with the puree, filled into small 
 moulds; served cold. MOUSSE DE CREVETTES 
 Shrimps same way as lobster. (See Sotiffles, Pains.) 
 GELEE MOUSSEUSE A L'EAU DE VIE Brandy jelly, 
 whipped to froth. MOUSSE AUX FRAlSES-Whipped 
 cream with strawberries, not frozen. 
 
 MOUSSERONS (Fr.) Mushrooms; the large or 
 full-grown open ones. Champignons are small or 
 button mushrooms. 
 
 MOUSQUETAIRE SAUCE- Cold or salad sauce 
 of oil, tarragon vinegar, mustard, shallot, salt, and 
 pepper. 
 
 MOUTARDE (Fr.) Mustard. 
 
 MUD-PUPPY "Another delicacy is the mud-- 
 puppy, which comes from Ohio. It is a lower form 
 of lizard than the hell-bender. It is a foot long, 
 with a lizard-like body, and a long, exceedingly 
 slabsided thin tail, with which it propels itself in 
 the water with great rapidity. On the back of its 
 head are gill tufts. When the mud -pappy is too 
 long out of water, the tufts dry, and it dies from 
 want of breath. Its feet are funny little things that 
 straddle and sprawl around like a puppy's. But the 
 reason why it is called a mud-puppy is that, when . 
 fishermen wandering with fish-spears along the bor- 
 ders of Western lakes and streams happen to bring 
 up a mud-puppy, it utters short, sharp barks." 
 
 MUFFIN The original English muffins are a 
 flour batter-cake mixture, without eggs, raised with 
 yeast and very light baked by pouring into tin rings 
 set upon a hot griddle, or baking plate, and turned 
 over when one side is done. \Vhen to be eaten, they 
 are pulled open, and the two halves toasted and 
 served hot. American muffins are the same batter- 
 cake mixture made richer, baked in gem-pans or 
 small muffin-rings, or are made of a piece of light 
 bread dough reduced to thinness with warm milk, 
 and enriched with sugar, butter and eggs, and baked 
 as before. There are all sorts, as corn, wheat, gra- 
 ham, rice and rye muffins. MINUTE MUFFINS One 
 pint milk, 2 beaten eggs, 2 tablespoons melted but- 
 ter, i tablespoon sugar, 2 large teaspoons baking- 
 powder, flour to make a batter that will just drop 
 from the spoon. 
 
 MULBERRY "According to the doctors, the 
 best fruit to eat at breakfast is a plate of mulberries. 
 They contain more acid than most fruits, and yet are 
 sweet and easily digestible." In the United States 
 the mulberry is held of little value; it is not often 
 served as dessert, and a mulberry pie would be ac- 
 counted one of the poorest. This is probably owing 
 to the abundance of better fruit at the same season, 
 and not that the mulberry is the worse here than in 
 Europe where it is used in various ways. The best 
 use to be made of it in cooking is to mix it with some 
 sour fruit, apples or rhubarb, when it makes excel- 
 lent pies and roly-polys.
 
 376 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 MUL 
 
 MULET (Fr.) Gray mullet. 
 
 MULLET There are two fishes of the name, the 
 red anil gray mullet. The latter is one of the most 
 abundant sea-fish of the southern coasts, and is 
 cheap and but little esteemed accordingly. It is of 
 good flavor, especially in the winter season; its flesh 
 is Hither dark and does not color as handsomely in 
 the processes of cooking as most other fish. The red 
 mullet is found in the same localities, hut in very 
 limited quantities, and is seldom seen in the 
 markets. RED MULLET "Most cooks make no dis- 
 tinction in dressing the red and gray mullet; though 
 the former is cooked woodcock fashion, without 
 drawing, so delicate is the fish." "If you get red 
 mullet fresh from the sea, dress them as is done with 
 woodcock, retaining the trail; but inland this is not 
 a safe proceeding." "A lover of mullet, the late 
 f)uke of Portland, was in the habit of going to 
 Weymouth during the summer months for the sake 
 of the red mullet which formerly abounded there. 
 The largest used to be had for threepence or four- 
 pence apiece; but he has been known to give two 
 guineas for one weighing a pound and a half. His 
 Grace's custom was to put all the livers together 
 into a butter-boat, to avoid the chances of inequal- 
 ity; very properly considering that, to be helped toa 
 mullet in the condition of an East Indian nabob, 
 would be too severe a shock for the nerves or spirits 
 of any man." MULLET LIVER "Quinn the actor 
 used to declare that the mullet was only created for 
 its liver to serve as sauce to the John dory." "A 
 large mullet may be cut into fillets and fried, and 
 served with sliced cucumber. The livers are the only 
 sauce to be eaten with mullet," MARCUS APICIUS 
 ox MULLET "The Romans served the mullet with 
 a seasoning of pepper, rue, onions, dates, and mus- 
 tard, to which they added the flesh of the sea-hedge- 
 hog reduced toa pulp, and oil." "Red mullets are 
 the favorite fish in Greece. They are cooked in ail, 
 with garlic, parsley and cayenne pepper; you then 
 strain tomatoes and make a good sauce, and let the 
 fish cook in it very slowly, adding lemon juice." 
 ROUGETS EN CAISSE Red mullets sprinkled with 
 oil and parsley, broiled in papers. ROUGETS EN 
 PAPILOTTES Red mullets baked in papers, served 
 with Italian sauce. ROUGETS AUX FINES HERBES 
 Red mullets cooked with bntter, wine, mushroom- 
 catsup and anchovy; served in the sauce with 
 chopped mushrooms, parsley, shallot, and lemon 
 juice. FILLETS DE ROUGETS A LA MONTESQUIEU 
 Red mullet fillets saute in butter with wine and 
 lemon juice; served with cream sauce. MULETS 
 GRILLES A LA RAVIGOTE Gray mullet broiled, and 
 served with ravigote sauce. MULETS AU BEUKKE 
 FONDU Gray mullet broiled, served with butter 
 sauce. They are also cut in pieces, rolled in flour 
 and fried, and split open, broiled, and served with 
 maitre ei'liotcl butter. UDE AND His MULLET 
 SAUCE Ude considered it a great insult when in 
 England a customer at the club refused to pay six- 
 pence for a sauce. "Wouldn't pay for my mullet 
 
 MUS 
 
 sauce!" he exclaimed, "what, does he think mullets 
 come out of the sea \vith my sauce in their pockets?" 
 MULLIGATAWNY Curry soup. Also spelled 
 mullagatawne. It derives its name from two Tamil 
 words: inolegoo, pepper, and timnee, water. "Mul- 
 ligatunny" would therefore appear to be the proper 
 spelling. WRITTEN IN 1827 "Mullaga-tawny sig- 
 nifies pepper- water. The progress of inexperienced 
 peripatetic diners-out has lately been arrested by this 
 outlandish word being pasted on the windows of our 
 coffee-houses. It has, we believe, answered the res- 
 taurateurs' purpose, and often excited John Bull to 
 walk in and taste the more familiar name of 'curry 
 soup' would, perhaps, not have had sufficient of the 
 charms of novelty to seduce him from his much- 
 loved mock-turtle." The American way is to begin 
 as for gumbo by frying the pieces of chicken and 
 onion and curry-powder together; another method 
 boils the chicken and other meat, such as a calf's 
 head, first, then cuts it up and fries it with onions 
 and curry, straining the broth the meat was boiled in 
 to it. "The annexed recipe emanates from an Indian 
 cook: Make 2 large cupfuls of mutton broth; cut up 
 a chicken, and boil it in the broth for a good half- 
 hour or more, first mixing in a tablespoonful of 
 curry-powder or paste; slice 2 onions, fry brown in 
 i oz. of butter, add them to the chicken and broth, 
 and place them for some minutes over a slow fire, 
 and, just before serving, add y 2 cup of cocoanut milk 
 and some lemon juice. The cocoanut milk should be 
 made by scraping the cocoanut very fine, pouring 
 boiling water upon it, and, after it has stood for some 
 time, squeezing it through muslin. If you cannot 
 get a cocoanut, use cream." 
 
 MUSCOVITES Whipped jellies; Moscow jel- 
 lies, from whipped jelly having at first been called 
 Russian jelly. These are combinations of jelly and 
 ice cream made by adding gelatine to fruit juice or 
 pulp and beating on ice till nearly set Jien mixing 
 in whipped cream, putting it in a mould and burying 
 in freezing mixture for 2 or 3 hours. (See Ices.) 
 
 MUSHROOM "I am a mushroom enthusiast. 
 Danger of poison ? Not a bit of it. With the exer- 
 cise of a little common sense there is no danger of 
 mistaking the edible variety for those that arc poi- 
 sonous. All toadstools, technically speaking, are 
 mushrooms, but all mushrooms are not toadstools. 
 Popular custom has given the name of mushroom 
 only to the variety used in the kitchen. I have seen 
 both sorts growing side by side, and exactly similar 
 in appearance, but the difference is soon apparent 
 when vou attempt to remove the skin. You can't 
 skin a toadstool; it will break off in small fragments. 
 The covering of the non- poisonous, on the contrary, 
 can be removed without the slightest difficulty. 
 Mushrooms are extensively cultivated in France, 
 but I did not know until recently that a similar in- 
 dustry was practised in this city (Philadelphia). I 
 had frequently noticed on Boldt's bill of fare, even 
 in the depth of winter, ' fresh mushrooms," and
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 377 
 
 MUS 
 
 this naturally led to inquiry. I found that there are | 
 four or five persons in Philadelphia who make a 
 business of cultivating the delicious fungi, and that 
 in addition quite a large number of private house ; 
 holders grow them in their cellars. One gardener ' 
 utilizes a large Dock Street cellar for the purpose. 
 A down-town truckman forces them to grow under i 
 the glass of a hot-house. An old Frenchwoman 
 and her daughter down in 'The Neck' are more suc- 
 cessful than all others, they having a bed made in 
 an enclosed cow- shed. The largest grower is J. E. 
 Kingsley, of the Continental Hotel, who has a large 
 farm in addition to the biggest hotel in town. 
 Those who grow them here receive from $1.00 to 
 $1.50 per quart for them, and on some occasions 
 even higher figures are obtained. When you come 
 to eat them in the cafe a one-dollar note buys* you 
 about two mushrooms, and yet at that figure they 
 do not even approach the delicacy of flavor and deli- 
 ciousness of taste of the same growth when pur- 
 chased in the open market house for from 10 to 25 
 cents a quart. I tell you it is almost impossible to 
 counterfeit nature. For instance, what a mockery 
 are the canned mushrooms that so many people eat 
 under a wild idea that they are enjo3'ing a luxury! 
 They are of a different species from our wild mush- 
 rooms, and are cultivated in immense caves near 
 Paris. When in their early or button growth they 
 are canned and sent to this country, where they are 
 served in sauces. But what a delusion! To one 
 whose palate can quickly appreciate the delicacy of 
 the true article they taste as though one were chew- 
 ing on preserved shavings. On a vacant plot of 
 building land in the immediate neighborhood of the 
 Harrow road and within four miles of Charing 
 Cross is produced annually what is probably the 
 most valuable crop grown in the open air and with- 
 out the aid of glass on any acre of Hnglish soil. 
 The space occupied is, indeed, rather more than an 
 acre, the rent being just 12 a year, but the space 
 devoted to mushrooms and manure is under an acre, 
 and the uninitiated will be astonished to learn that 
 from this small plot has been gathered in the last 
 twelve months about twelve thousand pounds 
 weight of mushrooms, all of which have been sold 
 at Covent Garden at a price varying according to 
 the season, but averaging ten-pence a pound for the 
 whole year. Now, the value of twelve thousand 
 pounds at ten-pence per pound is just five hundred 
 pounds sterling. We have therefore the amazing 
 circumstance that an acre of our metropolitan area 
 has produced a richer garden crop than the cosiest 
 corner of Kent or the most favored nook on Lord 
 Sudelev's jam farm in Gloucestershire." A SIMPLE 
 RULE "Make it a rule not to touch a mushroom 
 whose lower gills are- white." MUSHROOMS ox 
 THE GRILL The smallest buttons of the real mush- 
 room (cigaricus campestris) are, as everybody knows, 
 delicious if nicely broiled, but for a prime dish of 
 mushrooms from the grill, whether to eat alone or 
 with a kidney, or steak, or cutlet, we prefer them 
 
 MUS 
 
 fully grown, so that the brown gills are quite ex- 
 posed; for in the buttons the gills are hidden by a 
 membrane, which disappears as the head expands 
 and rends it asunder. MUSHROOMS ON TOAST 
 Slices of buttered toast covered with fresh mush- 
 rooms, which have been dipped in butter and sea- 
 soned, set in the top part of a hot oven till cooked. 
 STUFFED MUSHROOMS Open, cup-shaped fresh 
 mushrooms peeled on the upper side, washed, the 
 stalks chopped with parsley and shallots, stirred 
 over fire with butter and thickening, the mushrooms 
 filled with this stuffing and baked about 10 minutes. 
 CROUSTADES OF MUSHROOMS Cup-shapes of fried 
 bread or rolls filled with mushrooms in sauce; the 
 mushrooms cooked with butter, parsley, chives, salt, 
 pepper, stock, and thickened with yolk of egg; little 
 lemon juice. BROILED MUSHROOMS Large open 
 mushrooms steeped in oil for an hour, broiled on 
 wire broiler, seasoned; served on toast. VEGE- 
 TARIAN MUSHROOM PIE Equal quantities of fresh 
 mushrooms and sliced raw potatoes in a buttered 
 
 pie dish with seasonings, little water, covered with 
 paste, baked. Stalks of mushrooms stewed to make 
 gravy to pour in the pie. WHERE MUSHROOMS 
 ARE UNDERSTOOD "A strange variety of taste has 
 prevailed in various countries in regard to mush- 
 rooms. In Russia the peasants are never without 
 them. They are hung up to dry in the roofs of the 
 cottages like oat-cake in Lancashire, and form a 
 greatly esteemed relish to all sorts of dishes. In 
 some parts of Germany, also, they are largely pre- 
 served in brine for cooking purposes. In England, 
 however, it is only lately that they have come at all 
 into general use." THE BEEFSTEAK MUSHROOM 
 "Amongst edible members of the mushroom tribe, 
 a much esteemed article of diet, is the beefsteak 
 fungus (fistulina hepatica). It grows on trees, 
 usually oak, is firm and juicy, and, as its popular 
 name indicates, bear a great resemblance to a piece 
 of beefsteak. Its weight may exceed 20 Ibs. It is 
 used sliced and eaten with salad, or grilled like true 
 mushrooms." THE ONION TEST There are many 
 varieties of the true mushroom and of the horse - 
 mushroom, but all are equally good for table. To 
 distinguish between these and noxious fungi, the
 
 378 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 MUS 
 
 following test is recommended: Take half an on- 
 ion, stripped of its external skin, and boil it with 
 the mushrooms; if the color of the onion is changed 
 and it becomes bluish, or tinged with black, it is an 
 evident sign that poisonous fungi are present. If 
 the onion preserves its color there is no danger. 
 MUSHROOM KETCHUP OR CATSUP Large field 
 mushrooms peeled, crushed to a pulp, i tablespoon 
 salt to every quart; let stand 24 hours, the liquor 
 drained off and co every quart of it 20 cloves, 30 each 
 pepper corns and allspice; boiled gently % hour, 
 bottled, corked when cold. Will keep a long time. 
 DRIED MUSHROOMS These can be bought at Italian 
 warehouses and fruit stores, and give more true 
 mushroom flavor for sauces and garnishes than the 
 canned champignons. Mushrooms can be dried, 
 after peeling and trimming, on pans in a nearly cold 
 baker's oven, and kept in paper bags. MUSHROOM 
 PATTIES Puff-paste shells filled with cut-up mush- 
 rooms in gravy. BAKED MUSHROOMS Peeled, cup- 
 shaped mushrooms hollow side upwards in a pan 
 with butter in each one, salt and pepper, parsley and 
 lemon juice. " Two mushrooms, each measuring 
 27^ inches in circumference and q inches in diam- 
 eter, and weighing fully 13 ounces, have been 
 gathered fr6m the farm of James Bower, at Haps- 
 ford, Cheshire. These are believed to be the largest 
 mushrooms ever known to have been seen in En- 
 gland." 
 
 MUSK ESSENCE Used in flavoring drinks in 
 some places, also jellies and creams; it has been 
 temporarily the fashion. 
 
 MUSKRAT An old Maryland gentleman, who 
 is somewhat of an epicure, says that between turkey 
 and muskrat he will take muskrat all the time The 
 way the Indians cooked this animal was either to 
 roast it on coals or boil it with corn. The average 
 man will say that he would not eat a muskrat for 
 $10, but the average man does not know what he is 
 talking about. An ordinary cook, however, will 
 get nothing from the rodent except a failure and a 
 bad odor. If the musk bag is cut and the scent is 
 imparted to the meat it becomes worthless. 
 
 MUSSEL -Bivalve shell -fish, shell about the 
 length of a finger; nearly black, clings in clusters to 
 rocks and wooden piles of wharves. TRADE IN 
 MUSSELS "All along the Norman coast mussel- 
 fishing is greatly carried on, these shell-fish being 
 sent from here to all parts of the country. They 
 are at their best injuly. The usual way of eating 
 them is boiled, with a sauce of cream and vinegar." 
 MUSSELS AU GRATIN A great deal has been recent- 
 ly said about mussels and the various ways of cook- 
 ing these fish, whose cheapness and abundance put 
 them within the reach of all. One of the tastiest 
 ways of preparing mussels is an ffratin, for which 
 the following is the recipe: Choose some fine mus- 
 sels; season with thyme, laural-leaf, and parsley; 
 cook. Select fattest, and treat these only. Shell, 
 and cover with a bechamel sauce much reduced, 
 
 MUS 
 
 with yolks and cheese grated over. Glaze in a hot 
 oven and serve immediately. MUSSELS A LA MARI- 
 NIERE After a few minutes steaming or broiling, 
 take the mussels out of their shells, and toss them 
 in a saucepan with a large lump of butter and finely 
 chopped parsley, chives, and garlic; stir in a little 
 black pepper and bread crumbs. Serve very hot. 
 MOULES A LA POULETTE Mussels in yellow sauce. 
 MOULES A LA VILLEROI Fried mussels, dipped be- 
 fore frying in Villeroi sauce; then breaded, egged, 
 and breaded. MOULES DE GRAS Mussels stewed 
 with bacon and mushrooms, in thickened sauce. 
 COQUILLES DE MOULES Scalloped mussels same 
 as oysters. MUSSELS WITH TOMATOES Mussels 
 and their liquor, tomatoes, onion, half-fried in but- 
 ter, white sauce, red and white pepper, salt, butter, 
 little 'vinegar, parsley; served in deep dish with cru- 
 tons. MUSSEL SOUPS Same as oyster soups, with 
 or without milk. MUSSEL SAUCE For fish; like 
 ovster sauce; mussels in vellow sauce with lemon 
 juice. 
 
 MUSTARD Flour made of the mixed seed of 
 black and white mustard, deprived of its mustard 
 oil and toned down with more or less meal or farina. 
 To Mix MUSTARD Merely wet it with cold water. 
 Epicures sometimes mix mustard with sherrv or 
 raisin wine. The French mix it with tarragon, 
 shallot and other flavoring vinegars, and pepper. 
 SHAKSPEAREAN QUOTATION In Shakspeare's time 
 \\mgourmets of the period ate mustard with pan- 
 cakes. Touchstone puts the case "of a certain 
 knight that swore by his honor they were good pan- 
 cakes, and swore by his honor the mustard was 
 naught. Now, I'll stand to it, the pancakes were 
 naught and the mustard was good, yet was not 
 the knight forsworn." MUSTARD FOR BALDNESS 
 Gerard wrote about the same period: " The seed of 
 mustard pound with vinegar is an excellent sauce, 
 good to be eaten with any gross meats, either fish or 
 fleshe, because it doth help the digestion, warmeth 
 stomache, and provoketh appetite. It also appeaseth 
 the toothache being chewed in the mouth. It helpeth 
 those that have their hair pulled off; it taketh. away 
 the blue and black marks that come of bruisings." 
 MUSTARD OIL LINIMENTS The bulk of the mus- 
 tard oil is used for lubricating purposes, though a 
 large proportion, differently treated and put up as a 
 patent medicine, is used medicinally for rheumatics 
 and other ailments of the joints and limbs. .MUS- 
 TARD PLASTER Mix the mustard with the white of 
 an egg, and all painful irritation will be done away 
 with and^the full benefit secured. MUSTARD EMETIC 
 Mustard in warm water is often an efficient and 
 readv antidote in the case of poison. WHY IT is 
 DURHAM MUSTARD Prior to the date of about 1720 
 the seed was coarsely pounded in a mortar, as 
 coarsely separated from the integument, and in that 
 rough state prepared for use. In the year mentioned, 
 it occurred to an old woman of the name of Clements, 
 residing in Durham, to grind the seed in a mill, and 
 pass it through the several processes which are re-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 379 
 
 MUT 
 
 sorted to in making- flour from wheat. George I. 
 stamped it with fashion by his approval. From this 
 old lady residing in Durham it acquired the name of 
 " Durham Mustard." MUSTARD IN SAUCES When 
 it is desirable to put mustard in a sauce, as in Robert 
 sauce for instance, mustard flour, that is, unmade 
 mustard, must always be used. Put a little of the 
 sauce or stock, in a cup, stir in the mustard flour, 
 and then work in with the rest of the sauce. MUS- 
 TARD SAUCE For fish. (/)-Raw mustard mixed 
 with milk and little salt, more milk added and then 
 vinegar. In short time the milk becomes thick by 
 curdling, and is ready for use; i teaspoon flour mus- 
 tard to y 2 pt. milk. (i)-i teaspoon mustard flour and 
 2 of baked flour with 3 oz. butter, i gill boiling water 
 added, boiled; i teaspoon vinegar to finish. Doug- 
 las Jerrold once went to a party given by a Mr. Pep- 
 per, and said to his hoast, on entering the room, 
 " My dear Pepper, how glad you must be to see all 
 your friends mustered." 
 
 MUTTOX "Listen was asked by a gentleman 
 carving a loin of mutton : 'Shall I cut it saddlewise ?' 
 'You had better cut it bridlewise,' replied the fam- 
 ous actor, 'then we shall all stand a better chance of 
 getting a bit in our mouths.' " A WELSHMAN'S 
 HEAVEN " 'Heaven,' said a Welsh preacher, 
 searching 1 hard for a comparison, 'Heaven is like 
 is like is like heaven is like boiled mutton and 
 turnips!' But the Cambrian heaven is still incom- 
 plete if caper sauce be lacking to it." HARICOT DE 
 MOUTON Same as Navarin. Specialty. "The res- 
 taurant department of the Cafe Helder is good, be- 
 ing especially famed for its ragout of mutton, hari- 
 cot de motiton, or nai'aria, as it is here called." 
 XAVARIN DE MOUTON For some reason the old- 
 fashioned name haricot has fallen into disuse; nava- 
 rin is mentioned to be a more dignified appellation. 
 Made of the shoulder, breast and neck of mutton or 
 lamb cut in square pieces and fried on all sides in fat; 
 the fat poured off, flour shaken in the meat, broth 
 and tomato sauce added. In another pan several 
 sorts of vegetables in small pieces fried in butter 
 with sugar to give color; vegetables, herbs and meat 
 then put together and simmered about 2 hours; small 
 potatoes added last. ROLLED BREAST OF MUTTON- 
 Boned, chicken stuffing spread upon it, rolled up 
 and tied, baked in gravy 3 hours. COTELETTES DE 
 MOUTON A LA JARDINIERE Mutton chops with 
 jardiniere garnish. COTELETTES DE MOUTON A LA 
 SouBiSE-Chops with puree of onions. COTELETTES 
 DE MOUTON A LA PROVENCALE Chops coated with 
 thick sauce of onions, garlic, butter, eggs, cheese; 
 breaded and fried. COTELETTES A LA YICOMTESSE- 
 Chops coated with thick sauce of ham. mushrooms, 
 yolks, stock; breaded, fried, paper frills on bones. 
 COTELETTES AUX PETITES RACINES Chops on a 
 border of mashed potatoes, with carrots and turnips 
 in long shapes in brown sauce. COTELETTES AUX 
 TRUFFES Chops with truffles cut in slices in brown 
 sauce. COTELETTES PANEES GRILLEES Breaded 
 chops broiled. COTELETTES AUX POINTES o'As- 
 
 MUT 
 
 FERGES-Broiled chops with asparagus tips in butter. 
 COTELETTES A LA DURCELLE Chops baked in long 
 paper cases, three in each; mushrooms, onions, 
 brown sauce, parsley. COTELETTES A LA MAR- 
 SEiLLAiSE-Coated with cold pure of onions ; breaded 
 and browned in the oven; Soubise sauce. COTE- 
 LETTES A LA BOHEMIENNE Chops marinaded, 
 breaded, broiled; sauce made of some of the mari- 
 nade with tomato and brown sauce and currant jelly. 
 COTELETTES EN ROBE DE CHAMBRE Chops coated 
 with veal forcemeat, eggs, and breaded; browned in 
 oven; gravy sauce. COTELETTES A LA REFORME 
 Chops breaded with chopped or grated ham mixed 
 with the crumbs, fried, and served with rforme 
 garnish. COTELETTES A LA MARQUISE Chops with 
 a slice of ham laid on each, and veal forcemeat spread 
 on it; breaded on top, and browned; white sauce with 
 chopped ham. COTELETTES A LA FINANCIERE 
 Chops braised, served with financiere garnish. 
 COTELETTES A LA NELSON Chops breaded with 
 Parmesan cheese in the crumbs, fried, served on 
 border of mashed potatoes, center filled with maca- 
 roni and cheese. COTELETTES A LA MAINTENON 
 Chops wrapped and served in paper; they having 
 been previously sauteed in butter, with mushrooms, 
 parsley, shallots, brown sauce and lemon juice added, 
 some of the garnish twisted up with each chop; baked 
 or broiled. COTELETTES A LA PRINCE DE GALLES 
 Pieces of stewed breast of mutton breaded and fried; 
 served with mashed turnips and gravy. ESCALOPES 
 r-E MOUTON AUX FINES HERBES Slices of mutton 
 from the chump end of the loin cooked in a pan in 
 butter, strewed over with chopped shallots, parsley 
 and mushrooms. FILETS DE MOUTON A LA MACE- 
 DOINE The meat of the loin larded, braised, served 
 with macedoine garnish. CARBONADE DE MOUTON, 
 SAUCE PIQUANTE Loin of mutton cut in chops, 
 sauteed, served with sauce. HANCHE DE MOUTON 
 AU Jus r>E GROSEILLES Haunch of mutton with 
 gravy and currant jelly. QUARTIER DE MOUTON A 
 LA BRETONNE Fore quarter with white beans. 
 SELLE DE MOUTON A L'ANGLAISE Roast saddle of 
 mutton. GIGOT BOUILLI Boiled leg of mutton with 
 turnips. GIGOT SAUCE AUX CAPRES Boiled mut- 
 ton, caper sauce. LEG OF MUTTON A LA MEXICAINE 
 Mutton with black beans. LEG OF MUTTON A LA 
 BIGNON Roasted with a clove of garlic inserted in 
 the fleshy part; served with Bignon potatoes. MUT- 
 TON LIKE VENISON Loin of mutton boned, soaked 
 for 2 or 3 days in little port wine, basted with wine; 
 served with gravy and currant jelly. CAVALIER'S 
 BKOIL A shoulder of mutton half cooked in the 
 oven with a buttered paper over, scored down to the 
 bone, seasonings put in the cuts; broiled upon the 
 gridiron ; served with pickled mushrooms. MUTTON 
 PIE Stewed meat well skimmed of fat, with onion, 
 parsley, scooped potato balls and a top crust of 
 good paste; baked an hour. MUTTON CHOPS LIKE 
 VKNISON Chops without fat marinaded in oil, 
 vinegar, salt, pepper, onions, herbs; sauteed; 
 served with game sauce. MUTTON COLLOPS
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 NAG 
 
 (/) Thin slices or steaks from the leg-. (2) Scotch 
 collops are minced ; either mutton or beef. CURRIED 
 MUTTON Mutton in curry sauce; cold, cooked mut- 
 ton will answer. ROAST MUTTON AND LAVEK 
 "Mo.st people know that a roast leg of four or five 
 year old mutton (it were superfluous to expatiate 
 upon the haunch) with laver served in the saucepan, 
 is a dish of high merit, but it ought never to be pro- 
 faned by the spit, which lets out the gravy, and 
 shocks the sight with an unseemly perforation." 
 MUTTON SOUPS Scotch broth, hodge-podge, barley, 
 Piemontaise, Rouennaise, Grecque, etc. 
 
 NAGEOIRES (Fr.) Fins. NAGEOIRES DE TOR- 
 TUE Turtle fins or flippers. 
 
 N APERY Table linen. Really boiling water 
 will remove most fruit stains from napery; but I oz. 
 sal ammoniac and i oz. salt of tartar, in a quart of 
 water, will extract them ; also sherry or claret stains, 
 if the linen be allowed to soak in the solution a short 
 time. 
 
 NAPKIN The law of the napkin is but vaguely 
 understood. One of our esteemed metropolitan con- 
 temporaries informs an eager inquirer that it is bad 
 to fold the napkin after dinner, that the proper thing 
 is to throw it with negligent disregard on the table 
 beside the plate, as to fold it would be a reflection 
 on the host, and imply a familiarity that would not 
 benefit an invited guest. But the thoughtful reader 
 will agree with us that this studied disorder is likely 
 to be a good deal more trying to a fastidious hos- 
 tess than an unstudied replacing of the napkin in 
 good order beside the visitor's plate. The proper 
 thing is to fold the fabric with unostentatious care, 
 and lay it on the left of the plate, far from the liquids, 
 - ]iqueurs and coffee, and thus testify to the hostess 
 that her care 111 preparing the table has been ap- 
 preciated. The napkin has played famous parts in the 
 fortunes of men and women. It was one of the points 
 admired in Marie Stuart that, thanks to her exquis- 
 ite breeding in the court of Marie de Medici, her 
 tables were more imposing than the full court of her 
 great rival and executioner, Elizabeth. At the table 
 of the latter the rudest forms were maintained, the 
 dishes were served on the table, and the great 
 queen helped herself to the platter without fork or 
 spoon, a page standing behind her with a silver 
 ewer to bathe her fingers when the flesh had been 
 torn from the roasts. At the court of the empire 
 Eugenie was excessively fastidious. The use of a 
 napkin and the manner of eating an egg made or 
 ruined the career of a guest The great critic, Saint 
 Beuve, was disgraced and left off the visiting list 
 because at a breakfast with the emperor and em- 
 press at the Tuilleries he carelessly opened his nap- 
 kin and spread it over his knees and cut his egg in 
 two in the middle. The court etiquette prescribed 
 that the half folded napkin should lie" on the left 
 knee to be used in the least obtrusive manner in 
 
 NIV 
 
 touching the lips, and the egg was to be merely 
 | broken on the larger end with the edge of the spoon 
 and drained with its tip. The truth is, luxury and 
 invention push table appliances so far that none can 
 be expected to know the particular conventionality 
 that may be considered good form in anv diversified 
 society. The way for a young fellow to do is to keep 
 his eyes open which unless he is in love, he can 
 do and note what others do. 
 
 NAPLES BISCUITS Small sponge cakes. 
 
 NAPOLITAINE (Fr.) Neapolitan; in Naples 
 style. 
 
 NAPOLITAINE, SAUCE Brown sauce con- 
 taining port wine, horse-radish and currant jelly. 
 
 NASTURTIUM Well known garden flower of 
 low trailing hahit; the green seeds are pickled as a 
 substitute for capers. 
 
 XATUREL(Fr.) Plain. POMMES AU XATUREJ. 
 Potatoes plain, either in the skins or without sauce. 
 
 NAVARIN (Fr.) A brown mutton stew with 
 assorted vegetables; the meat and vegetables both 
 fried separately, first, then stewed together with 
 water and thickened. The same as haricot of 
 mutton. 
 
 NAVET (Fr.) Turnip. 
 
 NEAT English name for a calf. NEAT'S FOOT 
 OlL--The oil from calve's feet, used for oiling ma- 
 chinery. NEAT'S TONGUE Calf's tongue. 
 
 NECTARINE The smooth -skinned peach. Not 
 much cultivated in this country in comparison with 
 the peach. Is cooked, preserved and pickled in all 
 ways the same as peaches. The seeds are the flavor- 
 ing ingredient in noyau liqueur. 
 
 NEGUS Drink of wine and water. Named aftel 
 a Col. Negus. Hot water is poured to sherry or port; 
 sugar and slight flavoring. 
 
 NELSON TART-Mixture of almond paste, eggs, 
 butter and flour richer thaa cake; baked in a crust. 
 
 NESSELRODE PUDDING Kind of ice cream, 
 made of puree of chestnuts, cream, candied fruits 
 and flavorings. Nameu alter a Russian statesman. 
 Can be made by preparing a chestnut-custard rich 
 with yolks and sugar, adding any kind of candied 
 fruits or marrotts glnces, and then an equal quantity 
 'hick cream whipped, and flavored with maraschino. 
 
 NEUCHATEL CHEESE Soft kind of Swiss 
 cheese; comes in form of rolls, wrapped in tinfoil. 
 Is made in this country. Easily imitated by making 
 cream-curd cheese in any dairy. Favorite variety 
 with a great number of hotel patrons; gets better as 
 it ripens, and ought to be kept in stock to give time 
 to improve. 
 
 NILSSON CUTLETS Cold dish of minced 
 chicken in cutlet form, glazed all over and coated 
 with chopped truffles and olives. Dished ornament- 
 ally in a circle with salad in the center. 
 
 NIVERNAISE (Fr.) From Nh-ernon; a mix-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 381 
 
 NOE 
 
 ture ef vegetables in gravy for garnish ; nearly same 
 as macedoine or jardiniere. 
 
 NOEL (Fr.) Christmas. POU.DING DE NOEL 
 Christinas pudding. 
 
 NOIR (Fr.) Black. CAFE NOIR Black or extra 
 strong coffee. BEURRE NOIR Fried butter, black 
 or, rather, brown, used for sauce. 
 
 NOIX (Fr.) A nut. Noix DECoco Cocoanut. 
 Noix DE VEAU The cushion-shaped piece of veal 
 that is part of the round, next the flank, suitable 
 from its shape for larding and glazing. 
 
 NOISETTE (Fr.) A small nut; hazel nut; filbert; 
 also, fillets of meat or fish. 
 
 NONNE (Fr.) Nun. NUN'S SIGHS or NUN'S 
 SUPPERS (Soupers de Nonnes) Puff fritters, known 
 as Spanish puffs. 
 
 NOODLES American name for nouilles. Shreds 
 of egg paste, sort of macaroni. 
 
 NOUGAT Several varieties of candy. ALMOND 
 NOUGAT, BROWN Made by melting- sugar by heat 
 only, and stirring into it split almonds. ALMOND 
 NOUGAT, WHITE Sugar melted over the fire with 
 the least possible amount of liquid, blanched al- 
 monds stirred in. CORBEILLES DE NOUGAT Bas- 
 kets formed of either of the foregoing candies in 
 their soft state while hot. TROPHY DE NOUGAT 
 
 OIL 
 
 A soft candy in loaf form that can be cut like cheese,' 
 made of powdered sugar, honey, glucose, almonds, 
 etc. HONEY NOUGAT Another name for the pre- 
 ceding. 
 
 NORFOLK DUMPLINGS Boiled light bread- 
 dough. Pieces of the bread dough taken when light, 
 made into balls, allowed to rise again, dropped into 
 boiling water. Eaten either with meat or sweet 
 sauce. 
 
 NORWEGIAN PUDDINGS Cup-puddings or 
 cakes served with wine sauce. Made of % Ib. butter, 
 3 Ib. sugar, 6 eggs, ^ Ib. ground rice, % Ib. flour, 
 2 teaspoons baking-powder, flavoring; mixed like 
 cake, put in buttered cups; baked in slack oven, or 
 steamed. 
 
 NOUILLES (Fr.) A yellow paste made of flour 
 wetted with yolk of egg only, rolled out thin as pa- 
 per, cut in shreds for soups, or cut in leaves and fancy 
 shapes to decorate pats and meat pies with; also for 
 making raviolis, noques, etc. (See Italian Cookery.) 
 Nouilles are cooked with cheese, or with butter, or 
 tomatoes and gravy, in all the same ways as maca- 
 roni. 
 
 NOUVELLES (Fr.) New. POMMES Nou- r 
 VELLES New potatoes. 
 
 NOYAU A 'liqueur or cordial flavored vith nec- 
 tarine, bitter almond and peach kernels. NOYAU 
 CREAM Whipped cream flavored with noyau and 
 set with gelatine. (See Bavaroise.) 
 
 NUDELN (Ger.) Nouilles; noodles. 
 
 O. 
 
 OATMEAL An article of the first necessity now 
 in every hotel; eaten both at breakfast and supper. 
 The rolled oats are much easier to cook than coarse 
 oatmeal. When the latter is used it needs to be 
 soaked in water over night, then boiled 2 hours to 
 make mush or porridge. It is eaten -with cream or 
 milk. " Oatmeal used to be the staple dietary arti- 
 cle of our forefathers, but it is curious to note that 
 while its sale has fallen off to a large extent in Scot- 
 land, it has latterly increased greatly in England. 
 This is surely a silent revenge for Bannockburn. We 
 have forgotten our national poet's line, ' The Gale- 
 some parritch, chief o' Scotia's food;' and England, 
 which is ' annexing' every good thing that Scotland 
 possesses, has now appropriated her porridge, 
 while we poor Scotch are gradually deterioating our 
 race by the consumption of tea and white bread." 
 OATMEAL PUDDING WITH CREAM Made of i qt. 
 boiling milk, 4 tablespoons oatmeal, 4 tablespoons 
 flour, little salt. Oatmeal and flour stirred up with 
 cold milk then poured into the boiling milk; cooked 
 
 WHITE NOUGAT PYRAMID SUR SOCLE. 20 minutes or longer ; eaten with cream and sugar. 
 
 Ornamental sugar work on a decorated stand. OAT CAKE Akron oatmeal with little butter rubbed 
 
 An ornamental design built up of either of the above in and salt ' made into dou S h with hot water > rolled 
 
 in the soft state while hot, such as a hollow globe of | out thin and size of a dinncr P !ate > cut m q" arters . 
 
 brown nougat formed in a mould and supported by a j baked in oven. 
 
 figure of Atlas in cast candy. TURKISH NOUGAT I OIGXON (Fr.) Onion.
 
 382 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 OIL 
 
 OIL, FRYING "'There are two schools of cook- 
 cry in France, as distinct from one another as the 
 la Jig lie d' 1 Oil is distinct from lanffued'Oc. There 
 is the kitchen of the North and of Paris in which 
 butter is the principal vehicle; and there is the kitch- 
 en of the South or Midi in which oil is the chief 
 assimilator; and the most trustworthy authorities 
 on French gastronomy have always held that the 
 cuisine an beurnr was far more conducive to diges- 
 tion than the cuisine a r/tuile." Such is the theory 
 deduced from cookery books but, in fact, butter is 
 excessively dear in Paris and very little is used in 
 cooking. The need of it is lessened by the employ- 
 ment of gravies and sauces instead, and for frying' 
 oil, beef suet and lard are used. In the United States 
 cotton seed oil is becoming the principal medium for 
 frying. The cheapness of an article soon leads to a 
 trial and adoption without regard to arguments- 
 The cheapest grades of cotton seed oil give out an 
 unpleasant smell and taste when heated but the bet- 
 ter grades do not, it is but a question of quality and 
 price; and much of the lard used by those who ob- 
 ject to the oil is but the same oil in disguise. (See 
 Cotton Seed Oil Lard, Imitation Sntter.} -The Jews 
 , who fry much fish use oil for frying, it is, or has 
 been, neat's foot oil, but "vegetable oil" now takes 
 the place of that. " Potato chips" and French fried 
 potatoes are now advertised as being fried without 
 the use of lard meaning that oil is used. The hotel 
 steward buys oil by the barrel and satisfies himself 
 by previous trial of a small lot whether it is suffi- 
 ciently refined for his purpose. 
 
 OIL, SALAD Olive oil is obtained by crushing 
 and pressing the olives in sacks, it is then subjected 
 to refining processes. A vast quantity is produced 
 yearly in the old countries and California is con- 
 tributing largely to the supply, which she usually 
 ships in cans; so it is not difficult, as is sometimes 
 represented, to obtain real olive oil; but there is a 
 likelihood that imitation oil being refined cotton oil, 
 or pea-nut or both mixed, may be put upon the un- 
 wary purchaser at the price of pure olive. The best 
 test is heating some of the oil in a frying pan, let- 
 ting it become hot enough to smoke, then if the ex- 
 perimenter have had experience with low grades 
 cotton oil, he will detect sufficient of the same smell 
 in the refined article to apprise him that it is cotton 
 oil still. Much cotton oil goesabroad in barrels and 
 comes back in flasks labelled pure olive oil. The 
 probability is in most cases it is a mixture of real 
 olive with pea-nut oil and double-refined cotton 
 seed. As only the thoroughly educated palate can 
 detect the difference there is no particular harm in 
 this but the making the consumer pay for a cheaper 
 imitation the high price of the genuine article. 
 Salad oil is one of the items of serious expense in 
 hotels and restaurants and the subject is worthy of 
 thought and attention. 
 
 OKRA Well-known American vegetable, the 
 seed pods of a plant like a hollyock which grows 
 from 4 to 6 feet high. There are two varieties 
 
 OLI 
 
 grown for market; the best bears the short, thick, 
 green pods which remain tender longer than the 
 other kind, which are long, pale green, slender and 
 wiry. Few people, perhaps none, like the taste or 
 appearance of cooked okra at first, but the liking 
 grows so that no vegetable is more welcome to the 
 people of the South than this, not excepting aspar- 
 agus or peas. It cooks to a sort of mucilage, if pre- 
 pared to the Creole taste, that is stewed in very 
 little water. Where this is considered an objection it 
 is cooked in plenty of water, salted, and the mucilage 
 is not then so apparent. STEWED OKKA The young 
 and tender pods cut off at each end, washed, boiled 
 in salted water about % hour, the water poured off; 
 butter, pepper, little more salt mixed in by tipping 
 up the vessel; okra served without breaking it in 
 vegetable dishes. OKRA A LA CREOLE The young 
 pods trimmed, simmered in just enough water to 
 cover with little salt, and buttered paper under the 
 lid. When soft, a few spoonfuls olive oil and a 
 minced red or green pepper shaken in; served as a 
 vegetable. STEWED OKRA WITH TOMATO SAUCE 
 Tender pods trimmed and cooked nearly done in 
 salt water with a slice of bacon, taken up and trans- 
 ferred to a saucepan containing tomato sauce and 
 brown sauce mixed, with little butter. STEWED 
 OKRA AND TOMATOES Raw sliced tomatoes and 
 okra sliced crosswise stewed together with season- 
 ings; served as a vegetable like corn and tomatoes 
 cr succotash. OKRA SOUPS Gumbo soups, and 
 okra and tomato soups. DRIED OKRA This sells 
 in New York at about a dollar a pound at retail. It 
 is evaporated in slices like apples, is used after 
 soaking in that form, and is also ground to powder 
 and used as, gumbo file. 
 
 OLIVE The fruit of the olive tree, formerly a 
 special product of southern Europe, now the largest 
 and best come from California. For hotel use olives 
 should be bought by the keg, as glass packing, 
 labels, etc., cost as much as the fruit. The majority 
 of Americans are fond of olives and the demand is 
 increasing. OLIVES IN BRINE As bought in kegs 
 and jars the olives are in salt water; they have been 
 gathered green and steeped for a short time in lime 
 water and lye, which counteracts the oil in them, 
 and after that they will take up salt as well as cu- 
 cumbers and are thus preserved. To PPEVENT 
 SOFTENING Olives must be kept under the brine, 
 in the dark, covered up from the air, and never 
 taken from the keg with the hands; nearly full kegs 
 will sometimes turn soft and have to be thrown 
 away through neglect of these precautions; the best 
 package is the firkin-shaped bucket with a large 
 bung in the lid; a wooden spoon can be used to 
 dip them from the bung hole, which can then be 
 tightly closed. OLIVES WITH SALADS Besides the 
 favorite method of eating olives raw, and salted as 
 they are, they are valued as an addition and orna- 
 ment to every sort of salad, and only a little less 
 welcome when stoned and served in meat sauces. 
 EATING OLIVES There is etiquette in eatir.g olives.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 383 
 
 OLI 
 
 Cardinal Richelieu is said to have detected an ad- 
 venturer, who was passing himself off as a noble- 
 man, by his helping himself to olives with a fork; 
 it being- comme il faut to use the fingers for that 
 purpose. OLIVE PICKLES Some people do not 
 like olives as generally packed in brine. To such 
 we recommend the soaking of the olives over night 
 in fresh water, for which vinegar may afterwards 
 be substituted. By this means the olives are con- 
 verted into a nice pickle, and are very appetizing. 
 OLIVE SAUCE Olives in France are introduced in 
 sauces for calves' head and fowls; and a duck is 
 served with olive sauce. For these purposes the 
 olives are turned with a knife, so as to take out the 
 stone and leave the fruit whole. DUMAS' "How TO 
 COOK AN OLivE"-Place the olive inside an anchovy 
 the anchovy inside a lark, the lark inside a quail, 
 the quail inside a partridge, the partridge inside a 
 pheasant, and the pheasant inside a turkey; roast 
 the turkey until well done. Take the pheasant on 1 
 of the turkey, the partridge out of the pheasant, the 
 quail out of the partridge, the lark out of the quail, 
 the anchovy out of the lark, and the olive out of the 
 anchovy. The olive, imbued with the essential 
 juices of all these toothsome viands, will, Dumas 
 asserts, then be a hors d'eeitvre, fit to set before a 
 king. 
 
 OLIVES, MEAT English name, without ap- 
 parent reason, for thin slices of meat rolled up with 
 forcemeat inside; thus there are "veal olive" pies, 
 the rolls placed in order in a dish with gravy and a 
 crust of paste, and many similar dishes. 
 
 OLLA PODRIDA See Spanish cookery. 
 
 OMELET Eggs slightly beaten, cooked like a 
 pancake in a frying pan, rolled or half turned. 
 There is an important little secret in making these 
 delicacies. A very clean frying pan is of course 
 indispensable, and after having placed about an ounce 
 of fresh butter to melt in the frying-pan, the oiled 
 butter should be poured into the omeiette mixture, 
 and thoroughly whisked into it. This will not only 
 prevent the omelet sticking to the pan, but will give 
 it arichness not otherwise obtainale. OMELETTE 
 AUX ROGNONS Specialty. "Well, now, try this: 
 Stew the kidneys, add seasoning, a pinch of cayenne 
 (or, better still, a small whole capsicum-pod), and 
 an apple or two. When done, strain off; chop the 
 kidneys fine; make a savory omelette; rub the apples 
 tnrough a tammy, and add them to the gravy; 
 thicken it, and put it in the bottom of a scalding-hot 
 dish; place the kidneys in the omelette, and let the 
 latter almost float in the gravy, (or sauce) and serve. 
 Ye gods! what a feast!" OMELETTE WITH SPIN- 
 ACH Spinach boiled, drained, chopped fine, sea- 
 soned with little onion fried in butter. A savory 
 otnelut made and served in hot dish with the spin- 
 ach around it. ASPARAGUS OMELET Green points 
 of asparagus boiled, drained, seasoned, mixed in an 
 omelet and cooked in it. PARSLEY OMELET Three 
 eggs, tablespoonful of cream and same of chopped 
 
 OME 
 
 parsley, slightly beaten together; cooked on one 
 side, salted, rolled up. KIDNEY OMELET Mutton 
 kidneys thinly sliced, fried, and sauce made to them 
 with wine. A savory omelet made and kidneys in- 
 closed in it, with the thick sauce. TOMATO OME- 
 LET Onion fried in butter, and tomatoes added and 
 dried down, seasoned. Omelet made, cooked on 
 one side and tomatoes inclosed in it. OMELETTE A 
 LA MINUTE" Before an English cook would have 
 fairly smashed her eggs, a French cliej has whisked 
 them, tossed in a pinch of salt and chopped parsley, 
 shaken all over a roaring coke fire as if he was seized 
 with sudden frenzy, and plumped his omelet into a 
 dish cooked to a turn. The Granville Hotel has a 
 chef who is great at that triumph of the art culinary 
 an omelet. Especially does he excel with shrimp 
 and truffle omelets." OMELETTE A LA JARDINIERB 
 Mixed vegetables comprising mushrooms, carrots, 
 turnips, beans, peas, cooked in stock with herbs; 
 brown sauce and thickening added. Half the vege- 
 tables mixed in an omelet, rest poured over when 
 done. OMELETTE, AU NATUREL Plain omelet 
 OMELETTE AUX HUITRES Oyster omelet. OME- 
 LETTE AUX OLIVES Omelet with chopped olives 
 and brown sauce. OMELETTE AUX CHAMPIGNONS 
 Mushroom omelet. OMELETTE AU PARMESAN 
 With grated Parmesan cheese. OMELETTE AU 
 FROMAGE Cheese omelet. OMELETTE AU JAMBON 
 Ham omelet. OMELETTE AU LARD Bacon omelet. 
 OMELETTE A LA PUREE DE VOLAILLE Pure* of 
 chicken in cream rolled up in the omelet. OME- 
 LETTE AUX TRUFFES Sliced truffles in brown sauce 
 in the center of the omelet. OMELETTE AUX EPI- 
 NARDS Spinach omelet, green color, the purfie of 
 spinach mixed with the eggs before cooking. 
 OMELETTE AUX FINES HERBES Mixture of shal- 
 lots, mushrooms and parsley lightly fried, mixed in 
 the omelet before cooking. . OMELETTE A L'AL- 
 GERIENNE Rice boiled, seasoned with butter and 
 tomato sauce, spread inside an omelet; served with 
 tomato sauce. OMELETTE A L'INDIENNE Onion 
 lightly fried in oil, with curry powder and cream 
 mixed in the omelet before cooking. Boiled and 
 seasoned rice spread on the omelet and folded up in 
 it; served with curry sauce. SAVORY SOUFFLE 
 Light omelet made by separating the yolks and 
 whites, yolks beaten with little cream and season- 
 ings, whites whipped firm and added; cooked by 
 stirring in the omelet pan and finish in the oven. 
 SPANISH OMELET Tomatoes, chopped ham, green 
 pepper and onions fried together, placed part inside 
 and rest around the omelet. OMELETTE A LA PRO- 
 VENCALE Onion omelet with little garlic, the on - 
 ions and garlic lightly fried first, rolled up in the 
 omelet. TRAVELERS' OMELET Cold, substitute 
 for sandwiches. Omelet like a pancake, spread 
 with potted ham or tongue and mustard. SPORTS- 
 MAN'S OMELET With puree of game inside and 
 hot fiimet of game sauce. OMELETTE A LA MII.A- 
 NAiSF.-Macaroni and cheese in tomato sauce inside an 
 omelet, cheese sifted over outside while hot enough
 
 384 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 OX I 
 
 to partly melt it; sauce. OMELETTE AUX CONFI- 
 TURES Sweet omelet souffle'e with marmalade in 
 the baking dish under it, baked, sugared over top. 
 OMELETTE A LA CLAREMONT Sweet egg pancake 
 with apple marmalade inside, sugared over and 
 glazed. OMELETTE A LA CELESTINE Omelet with 
 frangipane pastry cream inside, apricot jam diluted 
 with kirschwasser poured over. OMELETTE AU 
 CHOCOLATE SoufHee made by adding dissolved 
 chocolate in warm cream to yolks, the whites 
 whipped and added ; cooked partly in omelet pan on 
 fire, finished in the oven. MERINGUED OMELET 
 Omelet rolled up with jam inside, meringued over 
 and browned. OMELETTE AU RHUM Rum omelet. 
 Omelet with little sugar and cream in it and spoon- 
 ful of rum; when turned on dish sugared over, 
 marked in stripes with red-hot wire on the sugar, 
 warm rum poured around and set on fire. OME- 
 LETTE SOUFFLE Puff omelet, sweet and flavored; 
 made with i teaspoon sugar to each egg, yolks and 
 whites whipped separately, with sugar and tea- 
 spoonful milk with the yolks; -all stirred together, 
 baked in dish or in frying pan partly on top and fin- 
 ished in oven. Sugar sifted over and should be 
 glazed with red-hot shovel or iron. Omelettes 
 soufflees are made almost as various as ice creams, 
 with different flavorings and mixtures of pistachios, 
 almonds, etc. (Sff Eggs.) 
 
 OXIOX " We give the name of onion to all the 
 plants of the onion tribe. The leek is to us an on- 
 ion, and so is garlic and the shallot. In old En- 
 glish the leek was the type, and garlic was but a 
 gar-leek a spear-headed leek. In the language of 
 science, garlic is made the standard, and the onion 
 is but a species of allium or garlic. It may be taken 
 for granted that of all the flavoring substances used 
 in cookery, the onion is, after salt, the most valu- 
 able; and cunningly concealed in a sauce, in a stew, 
 or in a soup, it yields enjoyment even to those who 
 would carefully put it from them if they saw it." 
 "A famous epicure once said that two things were 
 absolutely indispensable to a good dinner and with- 
 * out either of them the cook's art is lost. He meant 
 the onion and the truffle. For the truffle in recent 
 years several substitutes have been found, but the 
 onion still holds its own unrivaled as the essence of 
 all dishes that are prized because of their flavor. 
 The onion is the sheet anchor of the skillful cook. 
 It is impossible to prepare the delicate Bordelaise 
 sauce without resorting to the use of onions and a 
 shade of garlic. This may suprise many of those 
 who detest the very mention of the onion, but it is 
 nevertheless a fact, and it is the judicious use of 
 these two seasonings that stamps the expert cook." 
 ONIONS FOR HEALTH "Another writer, advocat- 
 ing their use, says: During unhealthy seasons, when 
 diphtheria and like contagious diseases prevail, on- 
 ions ought to be eaten raw at least once a week. 
 Onions are invigorating, prophylactic bevond de- 
 scription." ONIONS FOR A COLD "For a cold on 
 the chest there is no better specific, for most persons, 
 
 ORA 
 
 than well boiled or roasted onions." ONIONS A LA 
 CREME Onions boiled in salted water, drained, put 
 in cream sauce. STEWED ONIONS Cut in quarters, 
 boiled in salted water, drained, and put into butter 
 sauce or cream sauce. FRIED ONIONS (/) Sliced in 
 a frying pan and saut^ed till partly brown and all 
 tender, fat drained off, seasoned. (2) Cut in rin^s, 
 fried in kettle of hot lard like fried potatoes, drained, 
 salted. BAKED ONIONS Parboiled, drained, placed 
 in baking pan with butter, little sugar and water, 
 salt; basted while baking till brown, and glazed. 
 OIGNONS AU Jus Boiled onions with meat gravy. 
 OIGNONS FARCIS Centers cut out, stuffed, baked. 
 OIGNONS A LA POULETTE Button onions in yellow 
 sauce thickened with yolks. PUREE n'OioxoNs A 
 LA BRETONNE Onions mashed through a strainer, 
 simmered with meat glaze, served with fried bread 
 in shapes. ONION SAUCES Soubise sauce both 
 white ar.d brown, Bretonne, etc. (See Sauces.) 
 ONION SOUPS Cream of onions, pur^e of onions, 
 Soubise, etc. (See Soups.) 
 
 OPPOSSUM American country luxury. The 
 'possum is like a young pig; its skin is cooked with 
 it the same way, being freed from the hair by scald- 
 ing and scraping. The famous Southern native dish 
 of 'POSSUM AND SWEET POTATOES has the 'pos- 
 sum split open, surrounded with potatoes cut length- 
 wise, all baked in a pan together with salt, pepper 
 and lard or fat of some kind. Served with corn 
 bread. This animal is hunted with dogs; is found 
 in hollow trees. 
 
 ORANGE How TO EAT AN ORANGE- In Flori- 
 da, and many other parts of the country, the orange 
 is cut in halves and its juice and pulp are passed to 
 the mouth with a teaspoon. In Havana the orange 
 is served whole on the table, peeled down to the 
 juicy "meat" of the fruit, and you present the 
 golden ball to your lips on the prongs of a fork. 
 How TO SERVE ORANGES The best hotel plan of 
 serving is this: the waiter with the point of a pen- 
 knife divides the peel only, in four quarters without 
 quite severing them at the bottom, then removes the 
 peel from the orange which he further pares of its 
 white coat; he then puts the orange back in its peel 
 which is like four leaves to a flower, and so presents 
 it to the guests. Another way is to peel the or- 
 anges, divesting them as much as possible of the 
 | white inside rind as well, and pile them on a folded 
 ' napkin in the fruit basket or compotiere. A method 
 j in advance of that for a family table or party at one 
 ; table, is to take, say, 4 or 6 oranges, peel them care- 
 , fully, removing all the rind ; then pull the natural 
 sections half apart, dividing them about half way ; 
 stick a clove in the top point of each section; bunch 
 all the oranges together on a handsomely folded nap- 
 kin in a compotiere, and with the loosened sections 
 slightly spreading outwards the whole looks like 
 one, like some novel sort of fruit or flower, and the 
 further separation is easily accomplished with a tea- 
 spoon. To PREPARE AN ORANGE FOR EATING 
 "Joseph gave me a sample of his work at my house.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 385 
 
 ORA ^ 
 
 He sent my servant out for two oranges and a hunch ; 
 of violets. He took the orange and cut it with his j 
 penknife so as to resemble a basket, deftly extracted . 
 the fruit, cut out all the eatable part, replaced it in j 
 the basket, poured the wasted juice over this, added 
 kirsch and sugar. Then with a sharp penknife he 
 cut u longitudinal slit in the handle of the basket, 
 and inserted the violets in this, making of the orange- 
 basket an enlremet, pretty enough to be served on 
 any table. Whilst performing this feat of culinary 
 legerdemain (for it. was done so deftly and expedi- 
 tiously that it really was legerdemain*), he called my 
 attention to the fact that he never once touched the 
 fruit with his hands." BUY A GROVE "An orange 
 true will hear fruit until it arrives at the age of 150 
 years, and there are instances recorded of orange 
 trees bearing when 500 years old. In Malta and Na- 
 ples, 15,000 oranges have been picked from a single 
 tree; and there is one noted tree in the Sandwich 
 Islands that has been estimated to bear 20,000 in one 
 season. ORANGE HONEY Yellow jam made of 3 
 oranges, i lemon, i Ib. sugar, % Ib. butter, 8 yolks, 
 i egg; sugar juice and grated rinds boiled together, 
 butter and eggs added; simmered. Like honey, for 
 rilling mirletons, fanchonettes, cheese-cakes, dar- 
 ioles, talmouses, turnovers, tarts, jelly cakes. TAN- 
 GERINE JELLY Made of % Ib. sugar, i oz. gelatine, 
 juice of 15 Tangerine oranges, 2 sour oranges, i 
 lemon, peel of i orange; gelatine dissolved in hot 
 water, 'sugar, peel, juice added, strained; to make 3 
 pints by adding water; set in moulds. ORANGE 
 MARMALADE Oranges peeled, the peel boiled 3 or 4 
 hours, in 3 or 4 waters, till quite tender and bitter- 
 m-ss ;ill extracted; then shred as fine as hay; to every 
 dozea oranges allowed 4 lemons, and juice of all 
 squeezed into kettle, and % as much water besides; 
 to each pint of juice ij^ Ibs. sugar, the peel added; 
 all boiled till thick enough to keep. COMPOTE OF 
 OKANGES (/) Oranges divided in sections [peeled]; 
 to S oranges i Ib. sugar, % cup water, rind of i or- 
 ange; boiled to make syrup; when a little cool 
 poured over the oranges; eaten cold. (2) Oranges 
 divested of peel and rind, boiled, without dividing, 
 in 2 waters for J^ hour, then boiled in syrup; peel 
 boiled longer in 3 waters, then shredded and boiled 
 in syrup; served on top of the oranges ; cold like a 
 preserve. ORANGES A LADEMIDOFF Like compote 
 Xo. i, with maraschino in the syrup. ORANGES A 
 LA PORTUGAISE Orange skins emptied with a tea- 
 spoon, filled with orange ice and fruits, served frozen. 
 C'ROUTES AUX ORANGES-Quarters of oranges boiled 
 a few minutes in syrup, served on thin shapes of 
 bread fried in butter. ORANGE FRITTERS Peeled 
 and quartered oranges scalded in boiling syrup, 
 drained, dipped in batter, fried; sauce or powdered 
 sugar. ORANGE JELLY' Sugar, water and gelatine 
 boiled with white of egg and strained; orange rind 
 added to it warm; orange juice filtered separately 
 and added; all strained into mould and set on ice. 
 (See Je/lief.) ORANGES FILLED WITH JELLY Or- 
 ange skins emptied with teaspoon, filled with jellies 
 
 ORA 
 
 of two or more colors, set on ice, cut, and colors ar- 
 ranged alternately to serve. ORANGE ICE Sugar- 
 syrup, glucose, orange peel steeped, and orange 
 juice; frozen. CROQUEMBOUCHE OF ORANGES 
 Sugar boiled to the crack, pared sections of oranges 
 dipped in and placed in order while hot in a mould; 
 the casing becomes candy when cold, and the form 
 is turned out. FLAN D'ORANGES An open pie 
 filled with stewed oranges, custard on top. FOL- 
 DINGS AUX ORANGES Orange puddings of as many 
 sorts as lemon puddings, either orange bread-pud- 
 dings, oranges and rice, or tapioca, or starch, orange 
 custard, etc. BEIGNETS D'ORANGES Orange frit- 
 ters. CREME D'ORANGES Orange cream. GLACE 
 CREME D'ORANGES Orange ice-cream. ORANGE 
 SAUCE FOR DUCKS See Bigarade. ORANGE PIES- 
 Made as lemon pies in three or more ways. (See 
 Lemons.) ORANGE PUDDING Specialty. Made of 
 2 stale small sponge cakes, 4 oranges, 3 oz. sugar, i 
 oz. butter, 3 eggs, I cup milk; boiling milk to sponge 
 cakes, little grated orange rind, all the juice and 
 other ingredients; baked. CHARTREUSE OF OR- 
 ANGES Oranges not peeled, cut in slices shape of 
 the natural sections, dipped in strong orange jelly, 
 placed around a mould set in ice; when set, filled up 
 with any sort of jelly, or Bavarian, or ice cream. 
 ORANGE SNOW Orange jelly with whipped whites 
 stirred in when about to set, and all whipped up 
 white; set in moulds. GELEE MOUSSEUSE A L'OR- 
 A* GE French name of orange snow above. OR- 
 ANGE SALAD Sweet; made of 6 oranges, % Ib. rai- 
 sins, 2 oz. sugar, brandy or wine; 5 of the oranges 
 peeled and in sections, raisins cut and stoned, soaked 
 in sugar and brandy and mixed in, juice of other or- 
 ange squeezed over. (See Ambrosia.) ORANGES 
 WITH STRAWBERRIES " Nothing can surpass the 
 method of eating strawberries with cream. The 
 combination is not only delicious in itself, but car- 
 ries with it the happiest remembrances of rural life 
 and childish innocence. But cream is not always to 
 be had, and some people are afraid of it. The Span- 
 iards have another noble combination, moistening 
 the strawberries with the juice of a sweet orange. 
 There are gastrologers who go further, and say that 
 an addition of orange peel (by grating the zest with 
 a lump of sugar) is an immense improvement; and 
 that it must have been in this fashion the fruit was 
 served in the banquets of Mount Ida." KINDS OF 
 ORANGES It is said that about 100 varieties of or- 
 anges are known in Italy. " 'Blood' oranges, as 
 they are called, come mostly from Valencia, but a 
 few from Malta. The aromatic and delicious Tan- 
 gerines hail from St. Michael's, and also from Lis- 
 bon, and varies considerably in price, according to 
 supply. Seville oranges come from the place of that 
 name, and, as most people know, are now almost 
 exclusively used for making marmalade and orange 
 wine." CANNING ORANGES "Oranges have rec- 
 ently been successfully canned The fruit is peeled 
 and broken into its natural sections before canning, 
 and when taken out is just ready for use. This is
 
 386 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 ORC 
 
 likely to become an important industry in the orange- 
 growing districts of California and Florida." OR- 
 ANGE TRIFLE- Peeled oranges sliced in a dish, sugar 
 over, another layer and sugar, boiled custard poured 
 to the oranges warm, egg whites or cream (whipped) 
 on top when cold; served with cake. ORANGEADE- 
 Like lemonade. ORANGE WiNE-Sugar syrup boiled, 
 orange juice added to it, fermented with yeast 3 or 4 
 days, bunged tight; bottled after 6 months with little 
 brandy added in the bottles. 
 
 ORCHAXET ROOT A coloring ingredient to 
 be bought at drug stores, used to make red butter for 
 coloring cardinal sauce, etc. 
 
 OREIL.LES (Fr.) Ears. OREILLES BE VEAU 
 AUX CHAMPIGNONS Calves' ears with mushrooms. 
 OREILLES D'AGNEAU FARCiES-Lambs' ears stuffed, 
 breaded and fried. OREILLES DE Pone A LA STE. 
 MENEHOULD Pigs' ears breaded and baked, served 
 with remoulade sauce. OREILLES DE PORC BRAI- 
 SEES Pigs' ears braised in stock, served on spinach. 
 OREILLES DE PORC A LA LYONNAISE Cut in strips 
 in brown onion sauce. 
 
 ORGEAT Almond syrup or milk of almonds. It 
 is made with milk for orgeat ice-cream. "And now 
 a tip to you, ladies and gentlemen, how to make or- 
 geat as the Frenchman likes it, and probably often 
 asks you for it. Take 2% Ibs. of bitter almonds, i 
 Ib. i oz. of sweet almonds, 20 Ibs. of white sugar, 9 
 pts. of water, the peel of 3 lemons, and :2 drops of 
 essence of neroli. Throw the almonds into boiling 
 water, leave them for 10 minutes, then place them 
 in cold water and remove their skins; then pestle 
 them up with the sugar, and, after adding the 9 pts. 
 of water and the lemon peel, let them boil a minute' 
 or two, and finally pass the decoction through a sei ve, 
 taking care to press out all the milk in the almonds. 
 Orgeat is usually drunk with cold water (half-and- 
 half), with a dash of rum in it. It makes a most 
 wholesome and refreshing summer-drink." 
 
 ORIENTAL COOKERY TURKISH DINNER- 
 "Silence and expedition are the chief characteristics 
 of a Turkish meal. The table preparations are few, 
 but the dishes are many; olives, caviare, cheese, etc., 
 are dotted about, and perhaps as many as ten dishes 
 are handed round on covered brazen dishes consist- 
 ing of rice or barley, meat or boiled fish, cakes sea- 
 soned with vegetables, roast lamb, beans, a species 
 of rissole wrapped up in vine leaves, the inevitable 
 pilaf and fruits, and, as wine is forbidden, an intox- 
 icating substitute is found in liquors and brandy. 
 Each person has his glass of sherbet by him, and 
 his piece of unleavened bread, for the Turks love 
 half-baked dough. It will comfort the European to 
 see every one wash his hands before his meal, for 
 forks are unknown, and each is expected to dip his 
 fingers into the savory morsel as it is handed to him. 
 During the whole of the feeding process scarcely 
 four or five words will be uttered.and at the most vour 
 repast will last 20 minutes; but then afterward, with 
 the coffee and the hubble-bubble, conversation will 
 
 ORI 
 
 flow freely. To the Turk eating is a serious gastro- 
 : nomic exercise, which will not admit of a;. 
 i versation being entered into during the process." 
 TURKISH BREAKFAST "A Turkish breakfast coin - 
 j prises about thirty dishes. Soon after the first dish 
 comes Iamb, roasted on the spit, which must never 
 be wanting at any Turkish banquet Then follow 
 , dishes of solid and liquid, sour and sweet, in the 
 order of which a certain kind of recurring change is 
 observed to keep the appetite alive. The pilau of 
 boiled rice is always the concluding dish. The ex- 
 ternals to such a feast as this are these: A g 
 . round plate of metal with a plain edge, of three feet 
 in diameter, is placed on a low frame, and serves ;;s 
 a table, at which five or six people can repose on 
 j rugs. The legs are hidden in the extensive folds 
 I which encircle the body. The left hand must re- 
 main invisible; it would be improper to expose it in 
 any way while eating. The right hand is permitted 
 alone to be active. There are no plates, or knives, 
 or forks. The table is decked with dishes, deep and 
 shallow, covered and uncovered. These are contin- 
 ually being changed, so that little can be eaten from 
 each. Some remain longer, as roast meat, cold milk, 
 and gherkins, and are often recurred to. Before and 
 after dinner they wash their hands. An attendant 
 or slave kneels, with a metal basin in hand and a 
 piece of soap on a little saucer in the other. Water 
 is poured by him over the hands of the washer from 
 a metal jug; over his arm hangs an elegantly em- 
 broidered napkin for drying the hands upon." THE 
 TURKISH KEBAB The Turk of to-day usually de- 
 clines pork, but will not scruple to use veal. He eats 
 beef verv rarely; he indulges in ducks, lean fowls, 
 j and sheep and lamb, the flesh of which is cut in small 
 pieces. These pieces are strung upon long spits, 
 which are held and turned for some minutes over hot 
 coals, where they are slowly roasted, retaining all 
 their juices. This is what is termed kebab, a health- 
 ful and nutritious food which all Europeans and 
 Americans find delicious. The lists of Turkish 
 dishes show no less than sixteen ordinary kebabs. 
 (See Kabob.) SUT KEBABI Pieces of the loin of 
 mutton or lamb about the size of a guinea egg 
 sprinkled with salt, pepper, and ground cinnamon, 
 allowed to" absorb the seasonings for 2 hours. Par- 
 boiled in milk, taken out, ran upon skewers, and 
 roasted, basted with milk and flour until brown. 
 Dusted with cinnamon; served hot. KIYMADAX 
 FIRIN KEBABI Baked mincemeat kebab, made of 
 minced raw mutton, and minced onions partly fried 
 in butter, with pistachio nuts, currants, salt, pepper 
 and cinnamon. A caul fat is cut in pier 
 ' mincemeat in small portions wrapped in the pieces 
 | and baked. TURKISH SAUSAGES Raw mutton 
 ; minced, and raw rice mixed, with salt, pepper, ci:i- 
 i namon and milk. Stuffed into sausage skins, boiled 
 a short time in salted water. When cold, fried in 
 ! butter, or breaded and fried. TURKISH DOI.MADES- 
 Beef minced with raw rice, onion, parsley, pepper, 
 salt, butter; some vine leaves parboiled, portions of
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 387 
 
 OKI 
 
 sausage meat inclosed in the leaves, stewed slowly 
 with water and butter in a covered saucepan; served 
 with egg- and lemon sauce. SOUVALAKIAS Minced 
 beef balls, like German klSse, made of % Ib. each 
 minced beef and bread panada and J^ Ib. suet, flavored 
 with onion, made into quenelles very small, rolled in 
 flour, cooked in light wine sauce an hour; served with 
 mushrooms and stuffed olives. PILAF Rice boiled 
 in broth, variously seasoned, nearly the same as 
 Italian risotto. May have tomato sauce and butter. 
 A traveller says: "In the villages, however, the 
 inevitable dishes are pilaf. and yaort. The former 
 dish is found almost all over Mahommedan Asia. 
 With a foundation of rice or wheat it receives a 
 variety of other compounds, from chopped mutton 
 to sweet almonds and raisins, and sometimes wild 
 herbs. Yaort is a preparation of clabbered milk, 
 prepared so that it will keep for a long time. BEIG- 
 NETS i>u HAREM Rice dough made of cooked rice, 
 flour, yeast and little salt, balls size of pigeon's eggs 
 taken off when it is light, and fried same as dough- 
 nuts. They are quite white. Dusted with sugar 
 and served with raspberry sauce. TURKISH SWEETS 
 The Turks are celebrated for the variety and 
 excellence of their pastry and sweets. SOUFFLES A 
 LA SKILIZI Vanilla sponge cakes moistened with 
 kirschwasser syrup, made hot and served with sauce. 
 RAHAT LAKOUM " The ra/tat lakonm (coagulated 
 delight) of the Turks is a preparation otpecten (the 
 base imitation sold in this country is flavored gela- 
 tine.) I fed upon it once in the kitchen of the Se- 
 raglio at Constantinople. It was specially prepared 
 for the Sultanas, and presented to me by his Excel- 
 lency the Grand Confectioner as a sample of his 
 masterpiece. Although more than forty years have 
 elapsed since that moment of delight, the remem- 
 brance has not yet faded from my dreams. The fla- 
 voring essences of the grape, the nectarine, the 
 pineapple, and I know not what other fruits, were 
 there with all their aromas unpolluted. The sher- 
 bet was similar, but liquid. Well may the Turk 
 abstain from the gross concoction that we call wine 
 when such ambrosial nectar tikes its place. " RA- 
 HAT-IL-HOLKUM Rahat Lakoum; otherwise fa- 
 miliarly known in this country as "Turkish De- 
 light." Is made of 3 Ibs. loaf sugar, 4 qts. water, 
 boiled, 9 oz. starch added, boiled with constant 
 stirring until thick. Pieces dropped in powdered 
 sugar will not moisten or absorb the sugar when it 
 has boiled enough. To be flavored with musk the 
 size of a pea, dissolved in rose water. Poured out 
 in oiled pan, cut in pieces when cold. (See Fig' 
 Paste and Gum Drops.) EKMEK KADAYIFI Make 
 a syrup of i Ib. sugar and 2 pts. of water. Cut open 
 4 or 5 muffins and soak them in the syrup for 2 or 3 
 minutes. Remove with a slice, and place half of 
 them in a baking-tin; sprinkle over with pounded 
 nlmonds or pistachios, then a layer of clotted cream 
 Y in. thick, more almonds, and then the remaining 
 halves of the muffins. Now pour J of a pint of the 
 syrup over, place in the oven, or on a moderate 
 
 ORI 
 
 charcoal fire, until the syrup is nearly all absorbed, 
 and serve either hot or cold. AAPI BAKLAW,\ 
 Balaklava cakes. Paste like nomlles' paste rolled 
 out thin as paper, piled on each other with almond 
 paste between some layers, butter poured over, 
 baked in deep pan, honey syrup poured over, cut in 
 pieces to serve. ROSE JAM Many tons' weight of 
 rose leaves, gathered and packed while they are 
 freshly fallen, are converted into rose jam, one of the 
 exquisite conserves which under the generic name of 
 dulchatz, are so admirably confected in Turkey, 
 Greece, and Roumania, and constitute a leading 
 feature in the toothsome refection offered to the 
 casual visitor in every well-to-do oriental house- 
 hold. Rose jam, considered as a sweetmeat, is far 
 superior in flavor and savor to Rahat Lakonm, and 
 to the somewhat cloying preparations of angelica 
 for which certain Stamboul confectioners are justly 
 famous. It is by no means sickly, or even insipid, 
 as those delicacies unquestionably are, but is char- 
 acterized by an after taste no less brisk and refresh- 
 ing than that of the black cherry dulchatz, paragon 
 of all Turkish sweets. ARAB GARTROXOMY The 
 silk-clad merchants one encounters in the bazars of 
 Damascus and Bagdad are capital judges of a good 
 dinner. If western gourmets are ignorant of the 
 haute cuisine of the Arabs it is owing to the circum- 
 stance that invitations to dinner are rarely given to 
 strangers, whom true believers regard as unclean. 
 In a vague way it is understood that kebabs and 
 pilau are not reckoned as high-class cookery among 
 the natives. Some few, perhaps, have heard or 
 read of the much esteemed Samytah, a puree of 
 cream, dates, and starch; the Therid, a soup of olive 
 oil, vinegar, eggs and bread; the tasty Sikbaj, or 
 beef stew; and the golden Jttdabah, sugared rice 
 swimming in chicken fat. But the dainty dishes of 
 the Arab epicure, the appetite-enticing -wast, the 
 delicious sanbusaj, the leafy qutaif, and the honeyed 
 Itizinveli, are dainties of which the outer infidel 
 world knows nothing. SIKBAJ A stew of sheep's 
 heads. Tr.is is esteemed one of the greatest 
 triumphs of cookery and the test of a cook's excel- 
 lence. The heads are scraped, the ears left on and 
 filled with flavored forcemeat; they are then braised 
 and served with a sauce of olive oil and vinegar. 
 More than one good Moslem owes his death to a 
 surfeit of this dainty. Another esteemed prepara- 
 tion is QARID A fish stew. The fish is chopped 
 and gently stewed in butter, balls of minced liver 
 and vegetables are thrown in, and the whole taken 
 to table with a sauce made of vinegar, capers, mus- 
 tard, rue, cumin and celery. Tongues, livers and 
 roes of rare and expensive fish are added to enhance 
 the flavor and cost of this dainty. WAST A species 
 of sandwich which is supposed to sharpen the ap- 
 petite. Slices of bread are spread with white chicken 
 meat, grape syrup is poured round it, and the sur- 
 face is spread with almonds, olives, cheese, and 
 chopped eggs. Wast comes, according to the Arab 
 : usages, immediately after such light entrees as
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 OKI 
 
 tardynah and sanbusaj. The latter is a cross be- 
 tween a ragout and a patty, being one of the choic- 
 est delicacies known to eastern epicures. Ksahaq, 
 a famous oracle of the kitchen, bequeathed to his 
 countrymen the recipe for sanbusaj. It is a timbale 
 filled with a paste of pounded cabbage, meat, fat, 
 onions and spices. TURKISH SAUSAGES The intes- 
 tines of sheep filled with a composition of rice-flour, 
 chopped meat, and almonds, and formed into a kind 
 of knotted tripe, are also much esteemed by Arab 
 gourmands; and it may take a little of the conceit 
 out of Scotchmen who regard haggis as a special 
 product of Caledonia, to learn that it is an imme- 
 morial delicacy of the East. ARAB SWEETS In 
 the shape of sweets (of which, as everyone knows, 
 all Orientals are inordinately fond), there are two 
 confections which grace every gourmand's dinner 
 table. They are the luzinyeh, or almond cakes, 
 "distilling tears of sugar and butter," and gulaif, 
 or pancakes. These are served, as in the West, to- 
 wards the end of the dinner, after a course of "ap- 
 petizers." AKAB HORS D'CEuvREs Such as sharp 
 cheese, spiced vinegar, red eggs and olives, pickled 
 fish and asparagus in oil. LUZIXYEH Same as the 
 Balaklava cakes of the Turks and Greeks. The 
 hiznyeh consists of thin shells of pastry the thin- 
 ness of the dough being the point upon which epi- 
 cures insist containing a rich stuffing of almonds 
 and sweet flavoring. They are served swimming 
 in a sauce of melted butter and honey. For a thou- 
 sand years they have been deemed one of the great- 
 est delicacies of the kitchen. Ahmed Ibn Yahye 
 says of them: 
 
 "Appetite cannot so close its portals 
 But the approach of this dish unlocks them." 
 
 For all that, gutaif (the ekmek kataifol the Turks) 
 runs the luzinyeh very close. The qutaif, or pan- 
 cakes, are thin and leafy, fried in almond oil; and 
 are served up humid with "the oil ozingfrom them" 
 and a rich syrup "in which they sink and swim," 
 and covered with rose-water. Cold water is not 
 greatly in request among eastern lovers of good 
 cheer. The beverage of the Arab epicure is dushab, 
 a mixture of nebidh (date-water) and dibs (wine juice 
 reduced to a very thick and luscious syrup). From 
 time immemorial this has been the favorite drink of 
 the Bagdad gourmands. PERSIAN FARE ''One of 
 the most interesting Oriental meals I remember 
 taking was with AH Khan, the Governor of Khoi, 
 a city of western Persia. The dinner was served 
 on a cloth spread on the floor. The Governor and 
 his councellors, grave and dignified old Persians in 
 flowing silk gowns and henna- stained beards, 
 squatted cross-legged around the edge of the cloth. 
 Heaping dishes of rice pilaf, some dyed crimson 
 and some yellow, occupied the center, heaps of flat, 
 thin sheets of bread, boiled mutton, bayaar kabobs, 
 pastry of sweetened rice-flour, melons, fruit and 
 bowls of iced sherbet. Each Persian had one of 
 tha thin sheets of bread spread out before him for a 
 plate; bending over these they scooped up small 
 
 ORX 
 
 handfuls oipilafirom the nearest dish, and, rolling 
 it into sizable balls, tossed them dexterously into 
 their mouths. An act of courtesy would be to ferret 
 out some dainty tit-bit of mutton from the dish and 
 place it on one's next neighbor's sheet of bread. 
 No knife, nor fork, nor spoon, n6r implement of 
 any kind, was on the table beside the dishes save a 
 porcelain ladle to fill glasses with sherbet from the 
 bowl. The thin, pliable sheets of bread were used 
 to wipe the finger-tips after handling the greasy 
 mutton, and occasionally a small piece would be 
 torn off and eaten." How THE ARABS CARVE 
 The Arabs know how to carve a fowl without hav- 
 ing the bird migrate all over the table and finally 
 land in the lap of one of the diners. Five Arabs 
 seat themselves around a large bowl of rice sur- 
 mounted by a fowl. Two seize the wings with 
 their fingers and two the legs, and simultaneously 
 tearing these off leave the carcass to the fifth. It is 
 probable that they draw lots for the honor of being 
 the fifth. It must be a bad omen to have six men at 
 the table when a fowl is carved in this fashion 
 that is, bad for the sixth man if he is fond of fowl. 
 
 ORMERS Specialty. Shell-fish found on the 
 Florida as well as the French coasts. "Wot vou of 
 ormers, a shell-fish, known popularly as 'Venus' 
 ears,' from the shape and mother-of-pearl beauty of 
 them? They are only to be found'at very low tides, 
 and are out of season from June to September. 
 Choose those of medium size, lay them in salt and 
 water, beat them well, add season according to taste. 
 Stew for 2 hours in Be'chamel sauce if preferred in 
 brown sauce, dip first in flour; if fried, dip in flour. 
 They are extremely good curried, but they always 
 require a long time to cook. The flavor resembles 
 something dainty, between very delicate veal and 
 Ai 03'sters. I will stake my reputation as a. gourmet 
 on this dish." 
 
 ORNAMENTED CAKE 
 
 See Icing Cakes, Icing Tubes, Gum Paste. 
 
 ORONGE A sort of large, flat, orange colored 
 and delicious mushroom which grows on the bark 
 of trees, very abundant in southern Europe. Is put 
 up in cans in oil, like cepes. ORONGES A I.A BORDE-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 389 
 
 ORT 
 
 LAISE Same way as cefef, which see. URBAIN Du- 
 BOIS' FIRST TASTE "As I looked around I observed 
 a large open basket full of mushrooms of a peculiar 
 kind quite unknown to me. I was taking stock of 
 the contents of his basket, when the boy, noticing 
 my curiosity, asked me to taste his merchandise. 
 'What do you call this?' I asked. 'Cocons,' an- 
 swered the boy. I was not much the wiser, so I put ! 
 further questions to the lad, who explained to me I 
 that these 'cocons' were young unopened oronges. j 
 'Ho\v do you eat them in this country?' said I. 'Oh, i 
 it is very simple.' Then taking one of the cocons he 
 wiped it well with a piece of paper, broke it in two, j 
 gave a hearty bite to one of the pieces, and handed j 
 me the other half, saying: 'Taste it sir; do as I do." I 
 Without hesitation I followed his example. 'You 
 are right,' said I to the young- man, 'it is more than 
 good, it is excellent.' And I bought the whole of 
 the contents of his basket." (See Salads, Savoie.) 
 
 ORTOLAN A famous luxury of ancient and 
 modern epicures, concerning which there are more 
 stories of reckless expenditure and extravagance 
 told than of any other rare dainty whatever not ex- 
 cepting even the truffle. The ortolan is a small bird 
 comparable to the rice bird of America; its home is 
 Italy, France and southern Europe generally. The 
 scarcity of the bird as compared with the demand 
 gives it prominence as a most expensive morsel. 
 ORTOLANS AMONG THE ROMANS Soyer says: 
 "Florence and Bologna sent to Rome cases of orto- 
 lans, the enormous price of which irritated instead 
 of discouraging gluttony. They arrived in the me- 
 tropolis of the world, picked and separated one from 
 the other by layers of flour to prevent decomposition. 
 Each of these little birds furnish only a mouthful; 
 but this incomparable mouthful eclipsed everything 
 else, and produced a sort of epicurean ecstasy which 
 may be called the transcendantalism of gastron- 
 omy." ORTOLANS AND QCAILS "At this time of 
 vear the caterer must perforce meet the appetite of 
 his epicurean customers for 'winged game' by plac- 
 ing on menu ortolans and quails. The former delici- 
 ous little birds 'lumps of delight,' as some en- 
 thusiastic gourmet has described them are too 
 expensive for ordinary diners, and the quail is the 
 only really popular game substitute." How TO 
 KILL AN ORTOLAN "Ortolans should not be killed 
 with violence, like other birds, as this might crush 
 and bruise the delicate flesh to avoid which the usual 
 mode is to plunge the head of the ortolan into a glass 
 of brandy." ORTOLANS BROILED IN CASES "Hav- 
 ing picked the bird of its feathers, singe it, cut off 
 the beak and ends of the feet, but do not draw it; 
 put it into a paper case soaked in olive-oil, and broil 
 it over a slow fire charcoal or slack cinders and in 
 a few minutes the ortolan will swim in its own fat 
 and be cooked. Some epicures wrap each bird in a 
 vine leaf." ORTOLANS A LA ROYALE "One of the 
 dishes for the supper-table, upon the occasion of a 
 grand ball given by Sir Julian Goldsmid on the i^th 
 of June last. Everything was carried out upon the 
 
 OXF 
 
 most magnificent scale; the table decorations were 
 elaborate and beautiful, and the service was all in 
 gold!" "Bone the ortolans; fill them with a puree 
 offoie gras incorporated with a little chicken force- 
 meat. Next roll each bird in a leaf of buttered paper, 
 and poach them in an oven. When cold, the paper 
 should be removed, each ortolan carefully trimmed, 
 and the whole covered neatly with a brown chaud- 
 froid sauce, flavored with an extract prepared from 
 bones of the birds." ORTOLANS ROASTED The 
 birds trussed without drawing them. First a vine- 
 leaf and then a slice of bacon laid over the breast of 
 each and tied on with a string. Roasted at quick 
 fire in about 25 minutes ; served on toast with their 
 own gravy, and orange sauce aside. ORTOLANS IN 
 TRUFFLES Large truffles with part of the inside re- 
 moved and an ortolan placed inside; in a saucepan 
 with slices of bacon, and wine, etc. ; served in the 
 truffles on toast, with sauce made of the essence in 
 the saucepan. ORTOLANS A I.A PERIGOURDIN'E 
 Name of the dish of ortolans in truffles. 
 
 OSEILLE (Fr.) Sorrel. A green herb used as 
 greens and in soup. PUREE D'OSEILLE Sorrel 
 soup. 
 
 OSWEGO ' PUDDING Corn-starch pudding 
 meringued and baked. Made of I qt. milk, 4 oz. 
 starch, 3 oz. sugar, 2 oz. butter, 6 yolks; cooked xip 
 like thick boiled custard; jelly spread over top in 
 baking pan; whipped whites with sugar on top. 
 
 OWL " M. le Blanc was once chief cook to a 
 Parisian nobleman. For days before Christmas he 
 treated his guests to mouth-watering descriptions of 
 ' ze magnifique dinnair on ze Chrisemas day in La 
 Belle France.' A few days before Christmas he be- 
 came very mysterious, and intimated that those for- 
 tunate mortals who sat at his board should also have 
 a ' magnifique dinnair.' Accordingly anticipations 
 ran high. The day at last arrived. His promises 
 were fulfilled. The table was spread with an em- 
 barrassment of good things. One dish was a special 
 favorite, to the undisguised delight of the cuisinier. 
 It seemed a species of game, was delicately flavored, 
 but no one knew exactly what it was. ' Oh, mon- 
 sieur, do tell us what this delicious dish is,' said a 
 young and pretty guest, when the dish was demol- 
 ished. ' Zat, madam, zat eis ze grand triumph of ze 
 art. Only ze Frenchmen mek ze delicious deesh zet 
 ees ze vat you call ze owl ze pet owl.' 'Owl!' ex- 
 claimed a chorus of voices, and a dozen wry faces 
 were made. 'Oh, monsieur, how could you have 
 the heart to kill the poor thing?' chirped the fair in- 
 quirer. 'It ees you zat mek ze cruel accusations, 
 madam. I no keel him he die.' " 
 
 OX-CHEEK The meat of an ox-head. It is 
 cooked in various ways, the same as beef, and in 
 soups. 
 
 OXFORD SAUSAGES Specialty; made as fol- 
 lows: Take i% Ibs. of pig-meat cut without any 
 skin, i^ Ib. of veal, and ij^ Ibs. beef -suet; mince 
 these meats separately, very finely; then mix them
 
 890 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 OXG 
 
 with a dessertspoonful of dried, powdered, and sifted 
 sage; pepper and salt to taste; and the well-beaten 
 yolks and whites of 5 eggs. The whole should be 
 well beaten together, as much depends upon the 
 mixing. Made into flattened balls and fried. 
 
 OX -GA 1,1- Used for cleaning carpets. Can be 
 obtained of the butchers. 
 
 OX-HEART Steeped in acidulated water it is 
 afterwards cooked in slices in various ways, or 
 boiled and then stuffed with goose stuffing and 
 naked. 
 
 OX-PALATES Cooked in many ways the same 
 :.s sweetbreads. They are fii st steeped and washed, 
 then scalded or parboiled, and the white horny skin 
 peeled off; after boiled for 2 or 3 hours until tender. 
 OX-PALATE CROQUETTES Palates cooked tender, 
 cut up extremely sir.all, mixed in thick sauce with 
 the usual croquette seasonings, shaped when cold, j 
 breaded and fried. OX-PALATES A LA HORLY Cut 
 to shape, run on skewers, breaded, fried; served 
 with sauce and croutons. PALAIS DE BCKUP A LA 
 ROBERT Palates cut in pieces served with Robert 
 sauce. PALAIS DE BCEUF A LA RAVIGOTE Ox- 
 palates cooked, cut in pieces, coated with white 
 sauce, breaded, fried; served with Ravigote sauce. 
 PALAIS DE BCEUF A LA VIVANDIERE Same prepar- 
 ation as the preceding ; served in a brown sauce with 
 onions, butter, port wine, parsley. (Set Soups.) 
 
 OX-TAILS Divided in short pieces, steeped in 
 cold water, they are then stewed for several hours to 
 dissolve the mucilaginous substance that surrounds 
 the bone, and dressed in various \vavs, but princi- 
 pally in soup. HARICOT OF OX-TAILS Pieces first 
 browned in a frying pan with fat and onions, then 
 stewed in same pan with water for 3 hours, assorted 
 vegetables added, seasoned, thickened; served with 
 the vegetables and potatoes. Ox -TAIL SOUP THICK- 
 Good beef stock, a haricot stew like the preceding 
 added to it, the pieces of ox-tail and vegetables 
 served in the plates. OX-TAIL SOUP CLEAR Clear 
 consomme, neat pieces of ox-tail free from bone, and 
 different-colored vegetables in lozenge shapes served 
 in the plates with it. OX-TAIL SOUP WITH BARLEY- 
 And with macaroni, etc., see Soups. 
 
 OYSTER OYSTER QUOTATIONS FOR MENUS 
 " The man had sure a palate covered o'er 
 With brass or steel, that on the rocky shore 
 First broke the oozy oyster's pearly coat, 
 And risked the living morsel down his throat." 
 "An oyster, sir, is one of the elements of social ex- 
 istence, a delicacy of no age, sex, or condition, but 
 patent to the universal family of man. Good in a 
 scallop, better in a stew, best of all in the shell; 
 good in pickle, in curry, in sauce; good at luncheon, 
 before dinner, at supper; good to entertain a friend; 
 good to eat by yourself; good when you are hungry; 
 good, moreover, when you are not." "The Greeks, 
 who were the most zesthetical of feeders, had them 
 opened at table, and ate them 'out of hand.' They 
 knew as well as we do that to lay an oyster on a dish, 
 
 OYS 
 
 no matter for how short a time, diminished its piq- 
 uancy. Always insist on one point that the dainty 
 morsel is opened on the deeh shell, so as to preserve 
 every drop of the liquor. This done, the American 
 asks only crackers, butter, a slice of lemon, and the 
 pepper cruet. The Englishman would put aside the 
 lemon and crackers, and ask for brown bread and a 
 few blades of crisp white celery. As regards the 
 size of oysters, I take it that those are best which 
 need no cutting; two bites to an oyster is as inad- 
 missible as two bites to a cherry."- "An oyster 
 dinner was given in Baltimore the other night, and 
 only oysters were served in eight courses, beginning 
 with raw and ending with a pudding of oysters, crabs 
 and chopped celery that is said to have been very 
 nice." OYSTERS OUT OF SEASON "The reason why 
 oysters are procurable in London all the year round 
 is, that certain varieties, when transferred from their 
 original native homes to artificial beds, are so dis- 
 turbed that they cease to breed, and are consequently 
 fit for consumption at any time." FORCING OYS- 
 TERS "One of its most remarkable features appears 
 to be the peculiar process adopted for ' forcing.' 
 This consists in placing the young oysters into so- 
 called 'ambulances,' that is, boxes with \vooden 
 sides and tops and bottoms covered with galvanized 
 wire, the boxes being fixed about a quarter of a yard 
 above the ground. The oysters in these boxes grow, 
 we are told, about twice as rapidly as others which 
 are merely placed in the ' beds.' " OYSTERS AS 
 BRAIN FOOD "In some of the lower counties, down 
 the Chesapeake Bay, oysters pass as current money, 
 and in one town which boasts of a weekly newspaper 
 a large percentage of its readers pay their subscrip- 
 tions to it in oysters; thus the editor receives from 
 150 to 200 bushels of oysters yearly, which he is 
 forced to consume in his own family ; and, as oys- 
 ters are declared by the faculty to be most efficaci- 
 ous in producing and increasing brain power, it is to 
 be hoped that the subscribers to that journal get 
 good value for their oysters." PICKLED OYSTERS 
 "Pickled oysters, which years ago were a standard 
 dish at receptions and parties, and then were neg- 
 lected, have come into gastronomic fashion again." 
 BROILED IN THE SHELL " If oysters are to be 
 cooked, a homely excellent way is to lay the shells 
 on the gridiron, and as soon as they open put into 
 each a bit of butter and a dust of cayenne. The 
 French open the shells first, put over the oyster in 
 the deep shell a little mailre d' hotel sauce, then lay 
 it on the gridiron, and serve the moment the liquor 
 boils. Americans are as original in oyster stews as 
 in everything else. Almost every family has its own 
 recipe, to which it adheres with an unshakable loy- 
 alty." FRYING IN OIL Oysters fried in oil were in- 
 troduced by the late noted Philadelphia restaurateur 
 Minico Finelli, an Italian by birth. People who vis- 
 ited Philadelphia always made it a point to go to his 
 restaurant to enjoy this specialty. They were deli- 
 cious and delicate, beautifully brown, and without a 
 suspicion of grease. PHILADELPHIA BROILED OYS-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 391 
 
 OYS 
 TERS Hot oyster liquor prepared fivst by boiling, 
 
 OYS 
 
 with oysters in the shell, and immerse in a vessel of 
 
 skimming, adding- butter, salt, cayenne. Large oys- ', boiling water which is deep enough to completely 
 ters laid side by side in a greased .double-wire broiler, cover the basket of oysters. They are done almost 
 broiled on both sides over very hot fire, then thrown j immediately, and must be opened into a hot dish con- 
 into the oyster liquor. Served with toast aside. ' taining melted butter, pepper, and salt. OYSTER 
 PHILADELPHIA PANNED OYSTERS Oysters washed SAUSAGES Take % Ib. lean mutton, % Ib. beef suet, 
 in cold water and drained; thrown dry into a hot ; y 2 Ib. oysters scalded and with their beards taken off. 
 frying pan and shaken about till they boil; butter, . Chop all up together, add the yolks of 2 eggs, sea- 
 salt, and pepper added. Served in hot dish. I son with salt and pepper, and make up in the form 
 PI.AIX BROILED OYSTERS ON TOAST Take the of sausages, frying lightly in the usual way. O\s- 
 lurgest oysters obtainable; brush the wire oyster- I TER CROQUETTES Oysters scalded and cut, mixed 
 broiler with softened butter, lay in the oysters and ; with soaked crackers, chopped veal, batter, eggs, 
 broil over a hot fire 2 or 3 minutes, basting once on onion juice; shaped like sausages, breaded, fried, 
 each side with the butter brush. Dish side by side OYSTER POTATO BALLS Potato-croquette prepara- 
 on one long slice of buttered toast in a dish. Gar- I tion with yolks in it, and chopped oysters added; 
 nish with lemon and parsley. SCALLOPED OYSTERS ] balled, egged, breaded, fried. OYSTER KROMES- 
 "At a prominent restaurant the other day we asked j KIES Oysters cut up in thick sauce made of their 
 for some scalloped oysters. Fancy our disappoint- \ liquor, butter and flour, parsley and lemon juice; 
 ment to have served to us a sort of fricassee of oys- ! when cold and firm enough to handle, rolled to shape 
 ters. To be sure, it was served in a beautiful silver ; of bottle corks, each one rolled up in thin shaving of 
 
 dish like a scallop shell, and it wasn't a bad kind of 
 a dish, but it wasn't old-fashioned scalloped oys- 
 ters, so easily made and so toothsome to the palate. 
 If they had made them after this rule I know they 
 would have been good: Roll fine z Ib. of soda 
 crackers; put a thin layer of this in the bottom of a 
 
 boiled fat bacon, dipped in batter, fried. ROASTED 
 OYSTERS In the shells; placed amongst hot coals, 
 or in a very hot oven; served in the deep shell with , 
 spoonful of butter poured over, and toast aside. 
 FRIED OYSTERS Dipped in cracker dust, then in 
 egg, then in cracker dust again, dropped a few at a 
 
 baking-dish; wet the cracker with the liquor of the j time in hot lard, fried 4 or 5 minutes. STEWED OYS- 
 oyster. If you are not using shell oysters, wash j TERS Oysters and their liquor boiled one minute; 
 
 the oysters first and let them stand in a pint of clear, 
 fresh water for half an hour, then use this and milk 
 for the wetting. In the layer of crumbs place a 
 layer of oysters, well seasoned with salt, pepper, 
 and small bits of butter. On this another layer of 
 bread-crumbs, wet again with the milk and liquor. 
 Then again a layer of oysters, seasoned as before. 
 Repeat this until the oysters are all used. A layer 
 of crumbs should be the last as w ell as the first, and 
 should be thickly sprinkled with bits of butter. Just 
 before putting in the oven pour over nearly a cup 
 of milk. Bake to a light, crisp brown, and serve 
 
 boiling cream in another saucepan added with salt, 
 pepper and butter to the oysters. FANCY STEW 
 The above with a square of toast in a bowl, oysters 
 on the toast which floats in the cream. OYSTERS A 
 LA TARTARE Oysters scalded and cold served with 
 tartar sauce. HUITRES A LA VILLEROI Large oys- 
 ters, each coated with Villeroi sauce, bread-crumbed 
 and fried. Huif RES EN PAPiLLOTES-Oysters rolled 
 in oval-shaped pieces of a paste made of mashed po- 
 tatoes, flour and butter, and baked. HUITRES A LA 
 DIABLE Broiled oysters with butter, lemon juice, 
 and cayenne. HUITRES AU PARMESAN Oysters in 
 
 instantly." DEVILLED OYSTERS See Devilled, pan with little wine, chopped parsley, bread-crumbs, 
 
 HUITRES FARCIES DANS LEUR COQUILLES Speci- 
 alty mentioned as forming part of the Le Conseil 
 "judiciaire dejeuner .' Put a dozen fat oysters into a 
 saucepan. \Vhen the liquor is about to boil, place 
 them on a strainer and strain off watert Take this 
 water and boil it with bread-crumbs and a glass of 
 
 Parmesan cheese and bits of butter on top; browned. 
 ANDOUILLETTES AUX HUITRES Oyster sausages. 
 CROUTES AUX HUITRES Oysters pounded with 
 cream and spread on small pieces of toast. RIS- 
 SOLES AUX HUITRES Same preparation as for cro- 
 quettes or kromeskies, rolled up in thin puff-paste 
 
 cream until the bread is thoroughly dried up; then ! and fried. BOUCHEES AUX HUIIRES Small oyster- 
 place it in a mortar with butter, parsley, minced I patties. PETITS P\INS AUX HUITRES Small oyster- 
 shallots, pepper, and the yolks of 4 eggs. Work all i loaves; rolls fried outside, inside hollowed and filled 
 these ingredients well together with a pestle. Put with stewed oysters. FRIED OYSTERS A LA FOR- 
 this stuffing into the oyster-shells, with an oyster in j TRESS MONROE Drained, dusted with red pepper, 
 the middle of each, and cover each oyster over with j rolled in cracker dust, dipped in egg mixed with 
 the same farce. Cover same with bread-crumbs and ' whipped cream, then in fine white bread-crumbs; 
 bake in oven, serving very hot." CALIFORNIA PEP- i fried. Salted, served with lemon and parsley. 
 PER ROAST Specialty. Oysters in baking plate j FRICASSEED OYSTERS Oysters boiled 2 minutes, 
 dredged with Mexican ground sweet pepper, salt and liquor strained, thickened with flour and butter and 
 nutter; baked in top of very hot oven. Spanish sauce yolks; oysters have sauce poured over them. BAKED 
 made of oyster-liquor, chopped chillies and tomatoes OYSTERS A LA DUXELLES Fricasseed oysters with 
 ready in a hot dish, oysters slipped into it right side ' mushrooms added, with cracker dust on top, browned. 
 u;>. STEAMED OYSTERS Get a wire basket, fill it in the oven. OYSTERS A LA MILANAISE Cooked
 
 392 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 OYS 
 
 macaroni with oysters in alternate layers, yellow 
 sauce poured in, cracker dust on top; browned in 
 the oven. OYSTER CATSUP Pounded oysters with 
 their liquor, salt, spices; heated to a boil, little plain 
 proof spirit added; bottled. OYSTER STUFFING 
 Oysters mixed with bread and crackers with butter, 
 etc., to stuff fowls with. OYSTER SAUCE See 
 Sauces. OYSTER SOUP See Soitps. CURRIED OYS- 
 TERS Are put up in cans, same as the familiar 
 canned plain oysters. OYSTERS, ENGLISH NATIVE 
 
 The cut shows the shape of this oyster which the 
 English claim is the best for eating from the shell. 
 The difference in form of shell from the American 
 oyster can be seen by reference to the cut of " Blue 
 Point," on page 254. 
 
 OYSTER- PL ANT-Sa/.?//V, Scorzonera. A white 
 root with the taste of oysters. Grows to about the 
 thickness of a finger. Is best after frost in the spring 
 of the year. STEWED OYSTER-PLANT Scraped, 
 boiled in water containing a little vinegar, salt, and 
 flour to slightly whiten it; when tender, cut in short 
 pieces in white sauce. FRIED OYSTER- PLANT 
 Boiled, cut in lengths, dipped in batter, fried like 
 fritters. OYSTER -PL ANT FRITTERS Boiled tender, 
 mashed, stirred up with egg, little flour, butter, salt, 
 pepper; spoonfuls dropped in hot lard. SALSIKIS A 
 LA CREME Boiled, cut in pieces in cream sauce. 
 SALSIFIS A LA MOELLE Oyster-plant boiled, cut up 
 and stewed in brown sauce; served on toast spread 
 with hot beef-marrow. SALSIFIS A LA POULETTE 
 In yellow sauce thickened with yolks, and mush- 
 rooms added. BEIGNETS DE SALSIFIS Fritters of 
 oyster-plant. 
 
 P. 
 
 FAILLES AU PARMESAN Cheese straws. 
 Although called straws the paste is better looking 
 and better to bake if cut with a paste cutter into 
 strips }^-inch wide. Equal quantities of butter, 
 cheese and flour are pounded together to make it, 
 but one or two yolks and a sprinkling of water im- 
 proves it. 
 
 PAIN (Fr.) Bread. PETITS PAiNS-Small loaves, 
 rolls. PAINS DE LA MECQUE Mecca loaves, cream 
 puffs. PAIN DE FOIE DE VEAU Mould or loaf of liver 
 
 PAN 
 
 paste. PAIN DE PERDKEAUX Mould or loaf of 
 puree of partridge. PAIN D'ABRICOTS A mould of 
 apricot cheese. PAIN DE POMME A LA RUSSE A 
 mould of apple marmalade with whipped cream in 
 the center and currant jelly round. PAIN is the 
 equivalent of English cheese in head-cheese, liver - 
 cheese, etc. " Very excellent pains or cremes can 
 be made otpure's of delicate meats, fish and vege- 
 tables creme de fiomarj, cretne de crerettes, cretne 
 <Partichauts,J>ain degibier, etc. If required to be 
 
 HOLLOW BORDER MOULD, 
 
 for Pains de Volaille Aspics, Jelly Salads, etc. 
 
 served hot, the contents of the mould must be 
 steamed like a pudding, the cream being stirred into 
 the custard in the first instance." " Little cakes 
 made out of rye-flour and abundant currants are 
 very popular in Paris. These pains de seigle, as 
 they are called, are sold by all the bakers." PETITS 
 PAINS A LA FIANCEE Rich nut cakes made of 10 
 oz. hazel nuts pounded with cream, 10 oz. sugar, 2 
 oz. butter, 18 yolks, 8 oz. rice flour. Baked in sheets 
 on paper, cut in diamonds glazed and iced. 
 
 PALAIS DE BCEUF (Fr.) Ox-palate. 
 
 PANADA Bread soaked in milk or water and 
 squeezed dry. It is used in making stuffing, quen- 
 elles, forcemeats, puddings. 
 
 PANCAKE The pancake is the oldest form of 
 bread and there are remains of ancient ceremonies 
 and popular customs in regard to it still observed in 
 some places of which the original significance is 
 now unknown. In Catholic communities and coun- 
 tries which formerly were Catholic the custom is 
 observed of eating pancakes on Shrove Tuesday, 
 which is at the beginning of Lent. It is a pancake 
 feast in which everybody joins, the French perhaps 
 keeping up the observance with the greatest vigor. 
 
 PANCAKE PARTIES "This reminds one that 
 last year pancake parties were all the go at the 
 fashionable seaside places in France. At Etretat 
 especially it became quite a mania. The pancake 
 batter was brought on the beach ready mixed in a 
 jar, and a small portable charcoal stove was erected 
 in a sheltered corner against the rocky shore. The 
 other indispensable components of the pancake, such 
 as sugar, lemon, and butter, were also brought in a 
 hand-basket, as well as bottles of cider, the only 
 beverage allowed. It was rather an amusing sight
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 393 
 
 PAN 
 
 to watch a group of elegantly dressed people sitting 
 on the beach around a gentleman in shirt sleeves 
 with a white apron before him, handling the frying- 
 pan amidst the jokes and chaffing of the audience; 
 and bets were often made as to the tossing- abilities 
 of the amateur cuisinier. It often happened that 
 when the pan was handled by an inexperienced or 
 nervous person, the unfortunate pancake was tossed 
 up so awkwardly that it dropped half cooked into 
 the cinders, to the merriment of all present. It is 
 not everyone who knows how to toss a pancake 
 properly. The process looks simple enough, but it 
 is by no means so easy as it appears. In fact, it re- 
 quires much skill and practice to perform the feat 
 with success." AMERICA:* PANCAKES The pan- 
 cake has become thoroughly domesticated in Amer- 
 ica in the form of batter-cakes, which many people 
 eat twice a day the year round, a habit which seems 
 to be peculiarly American and not indulged in any- 
 where else in the world. It follows that we have 
 several varieties of pancakes and an easier and more 
 rapid way of cooking them than in a frying pan one 
 at a time, for we have a griddle which will bake a 
 dozen or two at once or fry them in grease as well 
 as a small frying pan. The chief difference between 
 the American wheat flour batter cake and the French 
 pancake is, that the former is (generally) made 
 light with some raising material, the French cake is 
 Out plain batter which would be tough if the cakes 
 were not so very thin. ENGLISH PANCAKES The 
 English mix their pancakes with ale and give them 
 time to rise, for ale acts the same as yeast and their 
 pancakes are light in consequence. Hence the dif- 
 ference in form. The English pancake is not rolled 
 up, being through its light texture somewhat too 
 thick to roll well, but is sent in hot from the pan, 
 dredged with fine sugar and sprinkled with lemon 
 juice. FRENCH PANCAKES The French pancake 
 is baked thin as paper; is spread with some sweet 
 preparation, rolled up like an omelet, the ends cut 
 off; a number are baked in advance, placed on a 
 dish, sugared over' and the top glazed by melting 
 the sugar in the top of a hot oven or by holding a 
 red hot iron close to it. This is the French pancake 
 which becomes familiar to hotel guests as the sweet 
 entremet " French pancakes with jelly." PANCAKE 
 BATTER, AMERICAN S oz. flour, 2 teaspoons baking 
 oowder, i egg, i tablespoon sugar, y, teaspoon salt> 
 fyi cups milk or cream, i tablespoon melted butter or 
 .ard beaten in. GERMAN PANCAKES A regular 
 article of sale at the restaurants by this name is a 
 pancake J inch thick, baked as usual in a frying 
 pan but requiring considerable time. The batter is 
 made as for light American pancakes. Eaten with 
 butter and sugar or syrup. PANCAKE BATTER, 
 ENGLISH^ pt ale, J4 pt water, 6 yolks, little salt, 
 about i pt flour, i glass brandy. PANCAKE BATTER, 
 FRENCH 4 oz. flour, 4 eggs, little grated lemon peel, 
 salt, ^J pt cream, % pt milk. To be baked very thin 
 in the pan, turned over, spread with jelly or marma- 
 lade, sugar on top. Swiss PANCAKES 6 eggs, 6 
 
 PAP 
 
 oz. flour, i qt milk, salt. Eggs to be whipped light, 
 all made into smooth batter like thick cream. When 
 11 the pan some currants shaken in, not rolled but 
 served with sugar dredged over. DANISH PAN- 
 CAKES Made small and thin, spread with puree of 
 chestnuts, doubled over in half, sugar on top, 
 glazed, served with apple sauce and cream. PAN- 
 CAKE SOUFFLES Plain, thin pancakes are baked 
 and spread with frangipane pastry cream in which 
 some whipped whites has been mixed. The pile of 
 cakes then baked in the oven are served while ligh^ 
 and hot POTATO PANCAKES An excellent sup- 
 per-dish. Grate a dozen medium-sized peeled po- 
 tatoes. Add the yolks of three eggs, a heaping 
 tablespoonful of flour, with a large teaspoonful of 
 salt, and lastly the whites of the three eggs beaten 
 stiff, and thoroughly incorporated with the potatoes. 
 Fry the cakes in butter and lard (equal parts) until 
 they are brown. PANCAKES WITH PEACHES 
 Rolled up with peach preserves or fresh stewed 
 peaches. PANCAKES A LA MANCELLE Spread with 
 puree of chestnuts flavored with maraschino. CRE- 
 PES AL'X CONFITURES Pancakes spread with jelly 
 or preserve and rolled. CREPES AU RIZ Rice pan- 
 cakes. (6ev Crepes.) 
 
 PAON (Fr.) Peacock. 
 
 PAPER CASES Little paper boats, cups or 
 boxes in which dainty small fish or birds are baked 
 in sauce, or souffles are baked instead of in cups, or 
 ices are frozen and served. They can be bought 
 ready made at confectioners' supply stores; are of 
 various fancy forms, crimped and fluted, and some 
 are of the finest delicate rice-paper. Where these 
 cannot be obtained sometimes there is a paper box 
 maker who will furnish some of a plainer sort, 
 the box machinery cutting the paper for cases in 
 shoit order; but otherwise the cases can be made at 
 home by clipping fine white paper to shape and 
 pasting up the ends or sides. Thy should hold from 
 J^ pt. to Yi pt. according to use intended. 
 
 PAPER FRILLS FOR CUTLETS Paper cut 
 in fringe and coiled in spirals around the bones of 
 lamb or mutton cutlets to serve at party breakfasts. 
 They can be bought by the gross cheaply. If to be 
 made at home double a sheet of paper and clip the 
 doubled edge to fine fringe, then move the other 
 edges of the paper one lower than the other and the 
 fringe will bow open, fasten so with paste, roll 
 around a pencil, and the fringe paper will retain 
 spring enough to coil around the bone. 
 
 PAPER RUFFLES FOR HAMS Same as the 
 preceding, or larger size to place upon the shank 
 bone of a decorated ham. 
 
 PAPER NAPKINS See Japanese. 
 
 PAPER-SHELL ALMONDS Soft-shell orjor- 
 dan almonds. 
 
 PAPILLOTE, EN (Fr.) In paper. Lamb and 
 mutton chops in some styles are cooked in paper. 
 White unruled paper is cut to the shape of a heart,
 
 394 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 PAR 
 
 brushed with melted butter, the cutlet and sauce or 
 forcemeat placed on one side, paper doubled over it, 
 the edges fastened by pinching- them up together 
 and baked on a wire broiler. Some styles are finished 
 by making gridiron marks on top of the papers and 
 serving in the papers as if broiled; in others the 
 papers are removed before serving. " Pompadour" 
 and " Maintenon" are among the paper -covered 
 styles. 
 
 PARMENTIER A man remembered in connec- 
 tion with the introduction of the potato in France, 
 and who caused it to be adopted as food. The po- 
 tato had been known and eaten in England and 
 Spain for 150 years before but had been kept out of 
 France by a popular prejudice. At the period of a 
 famine of bread-stuffs Parmentier applied to the 
 King, Louis XVI., who aided him, and by the ruse 
 of guarding the precious field of potatoes, ostensi- 
 bly, with soldiers, the populace were induced to 
 steal them and a demand was thereby created and 
 the potato was adopted into general use. He died 
 in 1813. POTAGK PARMENTIER Potato soup; a 
 puree of potatoes with cream and butter. (See soups.") 
 
 PARMESAN Cheese. A kind of Italian cheese 
 especially used for cooking purposes, and always in 
 the grated form. It is mixed in everything denom- 
 inated an Parmesan, when if other kinds of cheese 
 are used the name becomes an Fromage which 
 means any kind of cheese. Parmesan is directed to 
 le served with all soups containing macaroni or 
 other Italian pastes; it is found, however, in our 
 hotels that the attempt is not often successful, the 
 offer of grated cheese not always being taken in 
 good part. This remarkable cheese has the proper- 
 ty of keeping for an indefinite period, and growing 
 as hard as a stone without losing aught of the deli- 
 cacy of its flavor. It is not generally eaten as cheese, 
 yet is very toothsome grated and mingled with but- 
 ter into a paste to be spread on toast or biscuit. It 
 can be bought ready grated in bottles at the Italian 
 warehouses and fancy groceries and is used in that 
 form at most American hotels. 
 
 PARR A fish, the young salmon. Up to the age 
 of two years the salmon has dark markings and is 
 without the silvery luster which is its characteristic 
 when mature. 
 
 PARSLEY This well-nigh indispensable herb 
 can be grown easily from the seed in a box in a cellar 
 or in a garden corner; it can be propagated also bv 
 dividing the roots. Its flavor is mild but pleasant 
 and especially suits fish, chicken and potatoes. The 
 roots are better in soup than the leaves. The latter 
 in the curly variety furnishes the most ornamental 
 reen sjarnish for many dishes. Chopped finely and 
 squeezed dry by twisting in a towel it makes a green 
 powder very much prized for dusting over white 
 stews, etc., while the green juice expressed is use- 
 ful for coloring sauces, making green butter and add- 
 ing to the color of green pea soups. Parsley sweetens 
 the breath and takes away the odor of onions, eaten 
 
 PAR 
 
 in potato salad, in which it is one of the principal 
 ingredients. FRIED PARSLEY Is useful to garnis-. 
 dishes of fowl, etc. \Vashandthorcughlydryth: 
 parsley in a c^oth, and fry it in boiling fnt for : 
 couple of minutes, or till it is crisp. Take it or:. : 
 with a slice; and dry before the fire. 
 
 j PARSXIP A root like a carrot, nearly white; 
 best in the spring alter being frozen in the ground. 
 BOILED PARSNIPS Generally eaten with boiled meat 
 or fish. The parsnips pared, boiled about an hour 
 in salted water, served in broth. BROWNED 
 PARSNIPS Split lengthwise, boiled, then browned 
 
 ' in the oven with salt and fat from the roast pan. 
 FRIED PARSNIPS (/)-Boiled, cut in slices, dipped 
 in flour and browned in a frying pan. (2)-Slices 
 (after boiling) egged and breaded, fried by immer- 
 sion in hot fat. PARSNIP FRITTERS Mashed pars- 
 nips with butter, pepper, salt, egg, little flour; soft 
 mixture dropped by spoonfuls in hot fat. PARSNIP 
 CAKES-Same as above without eggs, in flats brown- 
 ed in pan. STEWED PAKSNIPS Boiled, cut small 
 in cream sauce. 
 
 PARTRIDGE The old bird confessedly has a 
 much higher flavor than the young one but do what 
 one may the cook will never obtain the delicacy and 
 tenderness which are characteristic of the young 
 birds. The best way to prepare partridges in per- 
 fection is to cook old and young together; the old 
 birds to impart flavor, the voung ones only to be 
 
 PARTRIDGE PERDREAU OR PERDRIX. 
 
 served at the table in the first instance, the others to 
 appear in other forms than roasted or boiled, as in 
 salmis or soups. PERDRIX AVX Cuoux Boiled 
 partridge with cabbage. One of the national 
 dishes of France. Two young and one old part- 
 ridges in a stewpan with 3 or 4 heads of cabbage, 4 
 sausages, i saveloy, % Ib. parboiled bacon, parsley, i 
 qt.stock, i glass sherry ; simmered an hour, young par 
 tndges taken out, cabbage, etc., cooked longer. Cab- 
 bage pressed, chopped, placed on dish with sliced 
 sausages and bacon as a border, partridges carved 
 and piled in the middle, liquor remaining mixed with 
 brown sauce poured over. SALMIS DE PERDREAU A 
 I.'ANCIENNE If you wish for a salmis possessing 
 all desirable qualities do not use the leavings from 
 a previous day, but let the bird be roasted % hour 
 before dinner, cut it up while still warm rmd keep in 
 a closed saucepan while sauce (Jumef) is made of
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 395 
 
 PAR 
 
 the bones and trimmings with sherry, onion, thyme, 
 % a bay leaf, peppercorns and mushrooms and 
 brown saute. Boil down, strain and pour it over 
 the cut up partridge. ROAST PARTRIDGE Young 
 birds that have been hung a while, slice of bacon 
 over the breast tied on, roasted in the oven about y, 
 hour. Served with game sauce like that with salmis 
 or with jelly. PERDRIX A LA CATALAN E Partridge 
 browned on the outside in a pan with chopped ba- 
 con, onion and aromatics, wine added, braised gent- 
 ly. Raw ham cut in dice, a cupful of cloves of 
 garlic previously parboiled and red pepper added. 
 BROILED PARTRIDGES May be served with poor 
 man's sauce and Indian pickle. Old partridges are 
 only fit for stewing with cabbage, for stock broth, 
 and glaze of game; but are too tough for anything 
 else. BRAISED PARTRIDGES Larded on the breasts, 
 covered with buttered paper in a saucepan with veg- 
 etables and aromatics, braised in own steam and 
 liquor 2 hours. STEWED PARTRIDGES Cut in 
 joints, half fried, broth added, stewed tender, 
 orange juice and littte of the peel, butter and flour 
 
 BALLOTINES OF PARTRIDGES, 
 
 Or any small birds on rice stand, jelly, truffle 
 on top, etc. 
 
 to thicken. COTELETTES DE PERDREAUX A LA BAC- 
 CHANTE Breasts of partridge flattened, a piece of 
 bone or macaroni stuck in each, bread crumbed and 
 fried, served with white game sauce with raisins, 
 juice of grapes, etc. FILETS DE PERDREAUX AUX 
 PETiTsLEGUMES-Breasts of roast partridges dressed 
 in a crown with young onions, carrots and turnips, 
 out in shapes and glazed, and game sauce. EPI- 
 
 f.RAMME DE PERDREAUX AUX CHAMPIGNON'S Two 
 
 kinds of fillets. ( See Epigramme.) PEKDREAUX 
 EN ESCALOPES AUX TRUFFES Thin round or oval 
 slices from the breast in a white game sauce with 
 truffles. CHARTREUSE DE PERDREAUX An orna- 
 mental mould of vegetables filled with larded and 
 braised partridges, pieces of sausage, dice of bacon 
 and jelly. (See Chartreuse.) PERDXEAUX EN SOUF- 
 FLE Puree of roast partridges with cream, yolks, 
 
 PAS 
 
 and whipped whites, baked in paper cases. PAR- 
 TRIDGES A L' ANDALOUSE Outside fried with but- 
 ter and ham, espagnole, water, sherry, parsley, aro- 
 matics, red pepper, all stewed together 40 minutes. 
 Sauce strained. BOILED PARTDIDGE WITH CELERY 
 Boiled with salt pork and vegetables; pure ot 
 celery poured over. 
 
 PARFAIT (Fr.) Perfect; perfection. Applied 
 to some kinds of sweets and to ices. Same as ex- 
 cellent (See Ices.) 
 
 PASTE CUPS Like the paper cases, but formed 
 of paste, almost as thin as paper, done by dipping 
 an iron shape into pancake batter and holding the 
 shape in hot fat until the thin coating of batter is 
 fried and will come off. The shape or mould is like 
 a small tumbler in shape, but may be of any other 
 form ; made of iron or copper, either sol id or hollow, 
 has a stout wire handle joined to the top to hold it 
 by. If there is no shape to be had, a substitute is to 
 use tin patty pans or shells, dip the outsides in bat- 
 ter and drop them in hot lard, take off and dip again. 
 Most depends on the batter, it must not have any- 
 raising or shortening in, but made same as French 
 pancakes, with 3 eggs, i pt. milk and about' 3 oz. 
 flour. OYSTERS IN PASTE-CUPS, OR CAISSES 
 Same as patties; oysters in either white or yellow 
 sauce, sprig of parsley on top. PASTE-CUPS AU 
 SALPICON Meat of any kind cut in very small dice, 
 seasoned, mixed with mushrooms, parsley and 
 white sauce; same as chicken patties. COMPOTE OF 
 FRUITS IN PASTE CUPS Dished like vol-au-vents. 
 
 PASTE Several kinds are made. SHORT PASTE 
 The commonest only slightly shortened has J^ Ib. 
 of either suet, lard, or butter to a pound of flour. 
 Xext, for boiled dumplings, has % ib. shortening to 
 a pound of flour. Best, for pies and baked dump- 
 lings and timbale linings, has % Ib. shortening to 
 the pound. PUFF SHORT PASTE % Ib. shortening 
 to a pound of flour; % Ib. of it rubbed in dry, like 
 all short paste, remainder rolled in flakes like puff 
 paste. SWEET TART PASTE Short paste with little 
 sugar and egg mixed in, for fruit tarts and cheese- 
 cakes. ALMOND PASTE See Almonds. NOUILLES 
 PASTE See Nouilles. GUM PASTE See Gum. 
 PUFF PASTE Feuilletage. This singular and highly 
 ornamental paste consists of layers of flour and 
 water dough rolled to the extreme of thinness with 
 alternate sheets of butter between. Suppose a sheet 
 of dough made of plain flour and water only, spread 
 out I inch thick; on top of that a similar sheet of 
 butter y inch thick. The paste is folded over in 3, 
 the butter in it keeping the layers of paste separate. 
 When it is rolled flat again there will be 3 layers of 
 dough where at first was only one. Fold in 3 again 
 and there will be 9 sheets of dough in the same 
 thickness; fold and roll the third time and there are 
 27 sheets of dough; the fourth time produces 81 lay- 
 ers, the fifth time 243 layers in the inch, the sixth 
 time 729, and then the paste is ready for use for 
 some purposes; but to be at its best one more fold-
 
 396 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 PAS 
 
 ing and doubling is required, which makes 2,187 
 layers or sheets of paste to the inch. The art of 
 making puff paste consists in keeping the butter in 
 that state of firmness, yet pliable, that it will con- 
 tinue to roll along with the paste and will keep the 
 flakes evenly apart, otherwise the layers of dough 
 either break or adhere to each other and the result 
 is a failure. The rule is i Ib. butter to i Ib. flour 
 and an ounce or two more to dust with; the ingre- 
 dients must all be cold. Used for various fine pas- 
 tries, tarts, open pies, patty cases, turnovers, etc. 
 HOT WATER PASTE For raised pies; is made of 
 y Ib. melted butter to each pound of flour and J pt. 
 water, butter and water both made hot and poured 
 into the flour, then stirred up to stiff dough. (See 
 Pies.} 
 
 PASTILLAGE (Fr.) Gum paste. 
 
 PATATES (Fr.) Sweet potatoes. 
 
 PATISSERIE (Fr.) Pastry. PATISSERIE D'A- 
 MANDES A LA CONDE Fancy shapes of puff paste 
 covered with chopped almonds and sugar in large 
 grains. PATISSERIE A LA TARTINE Sandwiches 
 of puff paste and jam. 
 
 PATE (Fr.) Paste and pie, especially the raised 
 pie, of which the shell is formed in a mould and 
 baked in it, and filled with meat or birds afterwards 
 and baked a short time longer. 
 
 FRENCH PATE. 
 
 PATE MELE Mixed pate; a raised pie filled 
 with several kinds of meat cut in small blocks, in- 
 terspersed with mushrooms, almonds, pistachios, 
 and small pickles, all solidified in the pie shell with 
 jelly. To be eaten cold. The wall is short paste 
 pressed into the pattern of the tin mould, which 
 opens on hinges, the shell is then filled with flour 
 and baked, then emptied, decorated with nouilles 
 paste, filled, egged over and finished in the oven, 
 and filled up finally with aspic jelly and wine 
 through a hole in the lid. PATE D'EMINCE Mince 
 pie. PETITS PATES DE VOLAILLE Small chicken 
 patties. PETITS PATES A LA BOURGEOISE Small 
 patties filled with veal forcemeat. PETITS PATES 
 DE MOLTON Small covered patties filled with 
 minced mutton, brown sauce and chopped mush- 
 rooms. PATE CHAUD D'AGNEAU Lamb pie, hot. 
 PATE A LA LEICESTERSHIRE A pork pie made as 
 in the engraving. PATE CHAUD DE LAPEREAUX 
 Hot rabbit pie. PATES D'ITALIE Italian pastes. 
 PATE DE FOIE GRAS Liver paste. 
 
 PEA 
 
 PATTIES Two distinct kinds are generally un- 
 derstood by this term. (/) The puff paste shell or 
 vol-au-vent, baked by itself, and the hollow middle 
 filled afterwards. (2) Tiny pies made by lining 
 patty-pans with short paste, filling with the oysters, 
 chickens, etc., and covering with a top crust. The 
 petits pates are generally of puff paste, without 
 patty-pans; the smallest are called bouchees. PAT- 
 TIES DE CREME DE VOLAILLE "Make a pure of 
 fowl, cooked in milk (no salt). Use the milk in 
 passing the puree through the tammy; put the whole 
 over the fire in a saucepan, with 2 tablespoonfuls of 
 white vegetable soup; stir till the puree is quite- 
 thick, then season with salt. Have puff-paste cases 
 ready, three parts fill with the puree; decorate the 
 top with white of egg, whipped to a stiff foam, col- 
 ored with saffron, spinach, cochineal, etc.; season 
 with salt, and dry in the oven, but do not color. Set 
 on stands, with lace-paper under the pastry, and a 
 centre piece of flowers rising out of the middle of 
 the stand.' 
 
 PAUPIETTES Thin slices of meat stiffed, 
 rolled up and cooked. The same which the English 
 call meat-olives. PAUPIETTES DE VEAU Slices cut 
 from the fillet spread with forcemeat, rolled, and 
 stewed with stock and wine. 
 
 PAW -PAW A wild fruit of the Middle States, 
 shaped somewhat like a banana, hut thicker. Grows 
 on a tree of small dimensions, in bunches of 3 or 4. 
 When ripe, it contains a yellowish pulp which re- 
 sembles an over-ripe muskmelon in taste, and there 
 are several seeds like broad beans. It is eaten by 
 some, but not much sought after. 
 
 PAYSANNE ( la) In country style. 
 
 PEACH One of the choicest of American fruits; 
 grows largest, choicest, and in greatest number of 
 varieties. Delaware and California produce the 
 most constant crops and control the canning busi- 
 ness of the country. California canned peaches in 
 syrup are the same as the compote peaches of 
 French cookery and are ready for use when opened. 
 PEACHES AND CREAM The fruit is pared, cut in 
 small pieces, mixed with sugar and cream in a bowl, 
 served with cake. If peaches are handsome it is ad- 
 visable to serve them whole, as they present an ap- 
 petizing appearance. Wipe them thoroughly, ar- 
 range them neatly on a dish, and decorate with 
 peach leaves. A border of the rose of Sharon (nar- 
 cissus) presents a very pretty contrast. PEACH 
 SHORTCAKE Chopped free-stone peaches mixed 
 with sugar spread between and on top of a split cake 
 of plain short paste, or on round sheets of puff -paste 
 baked separately. Eaten warm with cream. BROILED 
 PEACHES Specialty. Halves of peaches stuck full 
 of split almonds and peach kernels, dipped in pow- 
 dered sugar, broiled in the double wire broiler, 
 served hot, covered with scalded cream, orange- 
 flavored, and croutons of sponge cakes fried in but- 
 ter around in the dish. PEACHES ALA WINDSOR 
 Two halves of peeled peaches placed in natural
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 397 
 
 form in a cup cut out of sponge cake, sugared over, 
 glazed and cooked sufficiently in the oven; peach 
 syrup with maraschino for sauce. PEACH CHAR- 
 LOTTE See Apple Charlotte PEACHES A LA CONDE 
 Halves of peaches on a bed of cooked rice, deco- 
 rated with rice croquettes; marmalade, peach syrup 
 ;tnd Madeira for sauce. PEACHES ,A LA RICHELIEU 
 Halves of peaches served on round sponge cakes 
 dipped in kirschwasser syrup, garnished with mixed 
 fruits, citron, etc., in the syrup. SUEDOISE OF 
 PEACHES A peach pyramid made of half peaches 
 on fried rounds of bread built up in the dish around 
 a center piece. Syrup poured over. TARTE DE 
 PECHES French open peach pie. FLAN DE PECHES 
 Open peach pie with custard on top of the fruit. 
 BEIGNETS DE PECHES Peach fritters, made same as 
 apple fritters with halves of peaches. BEIGNETS 
 DE PECHES AU VIN DU RHIN Made with peaches 
 steeped in Rhine wine, and wine syrup for sauce. 
 PAIN DE PECHES A mould of peach cheese or 
 marmalade stiffened with gelatine. The center is 
 hollow and filled with whipped cream. See So der 
 Moulds. CHARTREUSE DE PECHES (i) Mould or- 
 namentally lined with sliced peaches, and filled with 
 peach marmalade. (2) Make a puree of canned 
 peaches, blanch and slice six bitter almonds, sweet- 
 en the puree, mix in the almonds, and also one oz. 
 of gelatine for each quart mouldful of the puree. 
 I-ine the moulds with slices of fruits of all colors. 
 The French dried and preserved bonbon fruits are 
 best for this purpose. Dip each piece in nearly cold 
 strong calfs-foot jelly, and let it be placed in posi- 
 tion. Work out a pattern of mosaic design with the 
 fruits. When set, fill with apricot mixture, and 
 serve with Devonshire clotted cream around the 
 base of the mould. Turn out as you would a jelly. 
 RISSOLES OF PEACHES Spoonful of peach marma- 
 lade inclosed between the flats of puff paste, egged, 
 breaded and fried. PEACH TART A LA MONTREUIL 
 Kind of pie of peaches with rice at bottom and 
 top. PEACH MERINGUE Ripe peaches cut small 
 on a sheet of cake, covered with meringue, sugar 
 sifted on top, baked light color. PEACH DUMP- 
 LINGS Same ways as apple dumplings. PEACH 
 COBBLER Popular Southern dish; a peach pie baked 
 in a large, shallow pan, served with the natural 
 peach syrup and cream. PEACH ICE Puree of 
 peaches in syrup and glucose, frozen. PEACH ICE 
 CREAM Ripe peaches cut sr all, frozen in cream 
 and sugar. PEACH PIES Same ways as apple pies. 
 PEACH CIDER Common in some districts; made 
 like apple cider. PEACH BRANDY Like "Apple 
 J;ick," distilled from peaches; abundant and cheap 
 in some sections. DRIED PEACHES, PEACH PRE- 
 SERVES, MARMALADE, PEACH BUTTER, BRANDIED 
 PEACHES are other forms in which surplus peaches 
 can be used, and PEACH VINEGAR and PEACH 
 SWEET PICKLES are highly esteemed in the peach 
 growing st ites. ICED PEACHES "Another dessert 
 dish is composed of peaches. These are cut open, 
 the kernel i? next removed, its place being filled up 
 
 with delicious peach-ice flavored with maraschino. 
 The two halves are then cemented together with a 
 thin layer of the same ice, the fruit passes an in- 
 stant in the freezer, and is then served. Other stone- 
 fruits are treated in the same way." For other ways 
 to cook and use peaches see Apples, Apricots, Pears. 
 GERMAN PEACH KALTECH \LE-In Germany a fa- 
 vorite and very pleasant bowl or "cup" is often 
 made of peaches, sliced and soaked for a time in a 
 little water with sugar, and three or four bottles of 
 Rhine wine poured over them, according to the 
 amount of fruit u?-;d. 
 
 PEACOCK Formerly served at royal banquets 
 with the utmost pomp and ceremony, generally with 
 its plumage replaced after cooking and its beak and 
 claws gilded. It is occasionally now sold for turkey 
 and passes without the difference being noticed. 
 The reason for its not being now in general use for 
 the table is the harsh, unsociable nature of the bird, 
 which makes the rearing too troublesome and too 
 destructive to -other poultry to be followed for profit. 
 THE PEACOCK AS A DECORATOR "At all banquets, 
 both of the elder and of the middle ages, the pea- 
 cock was a favorite piece of decoration. Sometimes 
 it was quite covered with leaf-gold, as if that were 
 an improvement upon its brilliant dyes, and with a 
 bit of linen in its mouth, dipped in spirits and set on 
 fire, it was served on a golden dish by the lady o^ 
 highest rank, attended by her train of maidens and 
 followed by music, and was set before the most 
 distinguished guest. This was a performance of 
 great state and ceremony, and the bird was held in 
 so far sacred that oaths could be taken on its head. 
 
 PEA-NUT The ground nut or ground pea. It 
 grows in little mounds of earth and the nuts form on 
 the roots. Enormous crops are raised in Virginia, 
 the Carolinas and Tennessee. The bulk of the nuts 
 are eaten roasted, large quantities are converted 
 into oil which passes for olive oil, palm oil, etc. ; 
 some are used in candy. 
 
 PEAR The pear is produced in the greatest per- 
 fection and abundance in California. The Bartlett 
 variety is the best for table use. Shipped in boxes 
 in its fresh state to all parts it is obtainable almost 
 everywhere in the season. Canned in syrup it is 
 equally a choice fruit for table use in that form. 
 SUEDOISE OF PEARS See Suedoise of Peaches. PEAR 
 CHARLOTTE Same as apple Charlotte. PEARS A LA 
 MARQUISE Pears on a rice border with whipped 
 cream in the center. TARTE DE POIRES Pear tart. 
 FLAN DE POIRES Open pear pie with custard or 
 cream on top. BEIGNETS DE POIRES Pear fritters. 
 BAKED PEARS are most suitable for a luncheon dish. 
 Obtain some good baking pears, peel and cut in 
 half, removing the cores ; place them in a large brown 
 jar with i Ib. of loaf suger to 4 Ibs. of pears, also 
 the thinly cut peel and juice of a large lemon; cover 
 closely, put in a slow oven, and bake until tender) 
 (See Raisine de Bonrgo<> tie.) COMPOTE OF PEARS 
 forms a nice sweet at this time of the year. Stew
 
 398 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 PEA 
 
 your pears in clarified sugar, flas-or with strips of 
 lemon -peel and color the sugar with cochineal, 
 serve cold in a glass dish. PEAR MARMALADE 
 Boil the rind of one temon and i oz. bitter almonds 
 in a pint of water for half an hour. Take them out 
 and add one Ib. fine sugar. Boil till dissolved, then 
 add the juice of three lemons, 3 Ibs. pears cut into 
 chips, and J Ib. more fine sugar. Simmer gently 
 till the chips are transparent. Store in jars. (Sef 
 Apples, Apricots.) 
 
 PEAS GREEN PEAS A LA FRANCAISE Boiled 
 and white sauce added. GREEN PEAS A L'ANGLAISE 
 Dressed with butter and salt only. PETITS Pois A 
 LA PARISIENNE Boiled with onions, butter, salt 
 and sugar and served with the sauce. PETITS Pois 
 AU Jus Stewed in stock. PETITS Pois A L'Ax- 
 CIENNE Boiled, put into cream sauce; made yellow 
 with yolk of egg. PETITS Pois AUJAMBON Stewed 
 with ham cut in dice and young onions. PETITS 
 Pois EN CASSES Green peas boiled in the pods. 
 MARROWFAT PEA A large and late variety of 
 green pea. SPLIT PEAS English yellow field peas 
 hulled and split, used principally for making soup, 
 but good as a winter vegetable and as a puree with 
 salt meats. BLACKEYED PEA A Southern variety, 
 like a bean, very generally eaten in the South; cooks 
 to a dark color. LADY PEA White Southern va- 
 riety, very small, scarcely larger than wheat, cooks 
 yellow; not so coarse as the black-eye pea; in good 
 demand for the table. GREEN PEAS BOILED IN 
 THEIR SHELLS There is a pea now cultivated 
 which, when young, has such tender shells, that 
 they are able to be eaten as well as the peas. Boil 
 for half an hour in water, drain, and .warm in but- 
 ter. Stir in some cream ; thicken with yolks of eggs, 
 and flavor with a few drops of vinegar. OUR COM- 
 MON SPLIT-PEA SOUP Wholesome and agreeable 
 in winter, with dried mint and tiny croutons, is 
 wholly unknown in France; the dried green peas, 
 termed pois casses, only are used for similar pur- 
 poses there. 
 
 PECTOSE The jelly making constituent of fruit, 
 abundant in the cranberry and crab apple. " Besides 
 these juices, sugar, cellulose, starch, and vegetable 
 albumen, there is an important constituent cf suc- 
 culent fruits to which the name oi pec ten, or pectin, 
 or pectose, has been given. It is vegetable jelly, aiso 
 contained in turnips, parsnips, carrots, etc., but in 
 smaller proportions. We all know it in the form 
 of currant jelly, apple jelly, etc. In its separated 
 state it is about the most digestible food in existence. 
 
 PELAMIDE (Fr.) Pilchard, a full grown sar- 
 dine; fish like a herring. 
 
 PEMMICAN Often named in relation to Indian 
 or Arctic life; it is beef dried and pounded to pow- 
 der, mixed with beef fat and sometimes with dried 
 fruits such as curtants; packed in cakes and bags. 
 
 PEPPER Ground pepper is subjected to adul- 
 teration to a greater extent, probably, than any 
 other commodity required in the hotel store-room. 
 
 PEP 
 
 and the simplest means to avoid imposition is to buy 
 i the pepper in the whole state and have it ground in 
 the house. So systematic is the practice of the inanu- 
 1 facturers of ground spices they make little or no dis- 
 guise of the fact, but only of the kind of adulterants 
 ; employed, for the buyer in quantity is offered dif- 
 ferent grades, as "pure, first adulteration, second 
 
 ! adulteration, ana third adulteration," according to 
 
 
 
 the price he is willing to pav. Where pepper is 
 purchased for use and not for re-sale it is manifestly 
 the cheapest plan to buy the "pure," if it be pure, or 
 the whole berry and grind it. The stuff found in 
 adulterated peppers is, in various mixtures, mustard 
 hulls, peanut cake, ground olive stones, cocoanut 
 shells, meal, sand, spent ginger, charcoal, etc., the 
 commonest and cheapest samples containing no pep- 
 per at all but the dust and tailing from the mills. 
 BLACK PEPPER Is the seed of a perennial climbing 
 plant found growing wild in parts of India, but is 
 extensively cultivated. The seeds or pepper corns 
 are gathered just before they are ripe and are dried 
 on mats. WHITE PEPPER Is the same berry as 
 black pepper allowed to ripen before picking, when 
 it does not shrink like the black and the outer black 
 husk or bran can be removed, making the grains 
 white. White pepper :s much the better for most 
 cooking purposes; that is, for adding to dishes that 
 are already cooked, as it does not show in dark 
 specks, but black pepper is to be preferred for fla- 
 
 i vor; to be cooked in compounds which are to be 
 strained afterward. MIGNONETTE PEPPER Is black 
 pepper crushed, not ground, that it may be cooked 
 in sauces and soups and be easily strained out, being 
 coarse. LONG PEPPER An inferior sort of pepper 
 sometimes used in pickling but now in little demand. 
 It is not fit to grind, having an unpleasant flavor. 
 It is used to some extent to adulterate ground white 
 pepper and is the source of the offensive odor given 
 out by some samples of white pepper when heated 
 in cooking. Long pepper is the seed of a weed 
 
 i which grows along the water-courses in India. 
 CAYENNE PEPPER Red pepper pods and seeds 
 ground; the small capsicums are the kind generally 
 used, but there is a mixture of various sorts. The 
 adulterating material is yellow corn meal, turmeric, 
 mustard hulls, etc., but it is not difficult to get it 
 quite pure from respectable merchants. SPANISH 
 SWEET PEPPERS A large kind of "bull-nose" pep- 
 per used green as a vegetable, stuffed and baked, or 
 eaten raw, as a salad. COLORING PEPPER In New 
 Orleans, and Florida cities a sort of cayenne of very 
 mild taste is used under the above name, principally 
 in fish cooking. It is an article of regular sale in 
 grocery stores, and occupies the same place in Creole 
 cookery that curry powder holds in that of other 
 countries. It is mixed with Creole boiled rice in suf- 
 ficient amount to make the whole dish light red: a 
 fish to be baked is laid open in the pan and perfectly 
 covered with the red coloring pepper before cook- 
 ing; it enters into jambalaya and into the fish stew 
 known there bv name of courtbouillon.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 399 
 
 PER 
 
 PEPPER POT The native soup of the British 
 West Indies, mentioned in song and story. It is a 
 hotch-potch like the Spanish olla fodrida, one song 
 running to the effect that when made in camp, each 
 soldier drops into the pot whatever he has been able 
 to capture or obtain in any way, chickens, game, 
 fresh or salt meats, and vegetables of all sorts; the 
 special seasoning is a native sauce, cassareep, and 
 plenty of chili pepper. 
 
 PERCH "The ancients have not left us any 
 hints as to how perch were cooked. The present 
 practice over the Continent is to stew them in vine- 
 gar, fresh grape, orange juice, or other sour sauce; 
 but, though this is certainly the common way in 
 Italy, at the Lago Maggiore they are spitted in their 
 scales, and basted while roasting with the same acid 
 juice. In Holland butter is added. The finest perch 
 is the zander, or giant perch of German waters. A 
 recent writer declares that it is worth going all the 
 way to Dresden to taste it." The perch is one of 
 the most abundant fresh-water fish on both sides of 
 the Atlantic. Its name in French is the same as in 
 English, it can scarcely, therefore, appear in any 
 menu in disguise. 
 
 PERDRIX, PERDREAUX (Fr.) Partridges; 
 the latter term is applied to young birds. 
 
 PERIGORD (/) With truffles; name of a 
 town in France famous as a truffle market. 
 
 PERIGORD PIE A pate or raised pie of boned 
 partridges and fresh truffles. 
 
 PERIGEUX, SAUCE Truffle sauce, made of 
 espagnole, meat glaze, white wine and sliced truf 
 rles. Meats served with this sauce are a la Peri- 
 geiix. PARISIAN RESTAURANT RECiPE-And, being 
 amongst my recipes, here is one for a sauce which is 
 most delicious, and which, being of truffles, can be 
 eaten with almost any dish. It is called Sauce Peri- 
 genx : Chop up some lean ham into small dice and 
 mix it with an onion and shallot minced very fine. 
 Fry this with some butter in a saucepan until the 
 onion has browned the whole, when add a little 
 jfvhite wine and let it simmer. Make some browned 
 butter, mix the sauce with it, with an equal quantity 
 of bouillon and shredded truffles. Let it simmer 
 again until it becomes of the consistency of sauce. 
 Pass it through a sieve and add as many truffles as 
 possible, cut into slices, when the sauce will be 
 ready for use. 
 
 PERIWINKLE-A sea snail of small size, cooked 
 and eaten as a relish, cold, but does not enter into 
 any compound dishes. 
 
 PERRY The juice of the pear; pear cider. 
 
 PERSILL ADE (Fr.) Parsley sauce; a dish made 
 rrt't-n with cooked parsley. 
 
 PERSIMMON A wild fruit of the Middle and 
 Southern Slates; good but neglected; grows on trees 
 of small dimensions. It has the shape and appear- 
 ance of a small tomato, the color, however, is yellow 
 when nearly mature and reddish brown when fullv 
 
 PHE 
 
 rripe; this state is not reached until after a slight 
 frost. It is then a mass of very sweet pulp contain- 
 ing several brown seeds, the taste is musky, like 
 the banana. While it is of but little value as fresh 
 fruit it will make a pleasant sparkling wine. It is 
 made into Persimmon Seer in Virginia in this way : 
 A barrel with pine branches in the bottom, or straw 
 if pine is not to be had, and a faucet, is half filled 
 with ripe persimmons; a panful of the fruit mixed 
 with bran or meal is baked until partly browned 
 and added to the fruit in the barrel to heighten the 
 flavor; the barrel is then filled up with water and 
 allowed to ferment like cider. In a few days it is 
 drawn off into another barrel and bunged tight or 
 bottled, and the first barrel refilled with water even- 
 tually makes vinegar. Good domestic wine can be 
 made without the baked fruit, and without sugar, a 
 little yeast spread upon toast assisting the fermen- 
 tation. PERSIMMON BREAD-The sweet pulp of per- 
 simmons rubbed through a strainer used to mix with 
 corn meal instead of water, makes a sweet corn cake. 
 
 PETTITOES Sheeps' feet, lambs' feet or pigs' 
 feet. The common popular name of sheeps' petti- 
 toes is sheeps' trotters. 
 
 PETIT OR PETITE (Fr.)- Small. PETITS Pois 
 small (young) green peas. PETITS PAINS Small 
 loaves, rolls. PETITES FONDUES small souffles of 
 cheese and eggs in paper cases. PETITES MERIN- 
 GUES Small meringues or egg-kisses. 
 
 PETITS -CHOUX (Fr.) One of the three or four 
 names attached to the hollow cakes popularly known 
 as cream puffs when filled with cream. Thepetits- 
 choux paste is employed for several purposes. (See 
 Eclairs, Profiterolles, Queen Fritters.) 
 
 PHEASANT" The pheasant has probably been 
 more praised and more abused than any other game 
 bird. Dr. Kitchiner says its rarity is its best recom- 
 mendation, while Kettner says, if kept till the fit- 
 meice is tully developed, it is beyond all other fowls. 
 This is the point at which opinion divides. The 
 
 PHEASANT FAISAX DE BOHEME. 
 
 pheasant requires long keeping to be eatable, and 
 those who do not like 'high' game do not like the 
 pheasant." "Some people will stare with as- 
 tonishment when we name boiled pheasant, yet 
 the only pheasant we ever really enjoyed was 
 boiled, and served with celery sauce." BOILED 
 PHEASANT "When you want a superb dish
 
 400 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 PHO 
 
 a dish that will strike your guests with amaze- 
 ment :inil awe, boil a pheasant, and serve it with 
 oyster sauce. I am aware that this sounds like a 
 culinary heres3'. Try it. I do not say you will aban- 
 don roasting, but I do say this the recollection of 
 that dish will haunt you for months, and you will 
 not rest satisfied until you have it again before you." 
 ENGLISH PHEASANT EN PLUMAGE The head taken 
 off with its feathers, also the rump with the long 
 tail-feathers, both reserved while the pheasant is 
 larded, roasted, placed in dish and plumage fastened 
 in place with silver skewers. ROAST PHEASANT-- 
 Larded, slice of bacon tied on breast, butter and 
 shallots inside, roasted; served with bread sauce. 
 PHEASANTS IN ENGLAND Are regarded almost as 
 domestic fowls, being protected as they are in game 
 preserves and bred and thinned out systematically. 
 Their flesh is light in color, and they are cooked in 
 most of the ways suitable for poultry. French and 
 other Continental menus most frequently mention 
 Bohemian pheasants, or faisans de Bolieme. FAI- 
 SANS A LA SOUBISE Braised pheasants covered with 
 Soubise sauce. FAISANS A LA BOHEMIENNE Phea- 
 sants stuffed with, joie gras, truffles, etc., cooked in 
 mirepoix; served in the sauce with truffles. FAI- 
 SANS A LA FONTAINEBLEAU The breasts are larded 
 in a square. They are braised in white stock with 
 lettuces and sausages, and served with the garnish 
 and brown sauce. Pheasant pies and pheasant gal- 
 antines, in the usual ways. 
 
 PHOSPHORUS PASTE FOR ROACHES 
 The following recipe for the destruction of cock- 
 roaches in bakehouses, etc., is efficacious: Mix i 
 dram of phosphorus with 2 oz. of water in a stone 
 jar; set this in hot water until the phosphorus is 
 melted, then pour into a quart or half-gallon pan 
 containing }^ Ib. of melted lard. Stir up quickly, 
 and put y^. Ib of fine sugar and % Ib. flour made into 
 a stiff paste. Make the paste into small balls about 
 the size of small Spanish nuts, and put them about 
 wherever you find the cockroaches, and fill up all 
 cracks and holes with the paste. They will eat it 
 and die by hundreds. 
 'PICCA~LILLI Mixed pickles. 
 
 PICKEREL, American lake-fish of the pike fam- 
 ily, larger than a pike, and of first quality for the 
 table; is cooked by broiling, boiling, frying, or 
 baking. 
 
 PIECES MONTEES Large decorative pieces 
 of cooks' work of all kinds. "The service a la Russe, 
 by some gourmets lauded to the skies, by others 
 abominated as inartistic and unconvivial, has almost 
 banished savory pieces montees from the dinner table. 
 Save at a restaurant in Paris or St. Petersburg, we 
 rarely see our food in its entirety. But there are cer- 
 tain plats which should be seen before they are eaten. 
 Such is the saumon a la Chambord, surmounted by- 
 its forest of hatelets ,' the dinde tritffee, and in partic- 
 ular tiiepoulet a la Marengo, that glorious pyramid 
 of fowl fried in oil Napoleon's cook hud no butter 
 when his master teturned from his famous victory, 
 
 PIE 
 
 and was fain to use Lucca oil instead eggs, sippets, 
 and crawfish. Served a la Russe in fragments from 
 an invisible entity, these historic mets would lose 
 half their purport and significance." 
 
 PIE There is a marked dissimilarity between the 
 English and American idea of pie. An English 
 feast is scarcely complete without pie, and at a ball 
 supper there will be a variety; but they are pies of 
 meat and game, whereas the American pie in general 
 is a sweet. A few hot pies of meat are in high favor 
 here, such as chicken pie; but nobody ever thinks of 
 ordering a cold meat pie. This is the saying of an 
 English gourmet and expresses the national idea: 
 A GRADATION OF PIES "The best of all pies is a 
 grouse-pie; the second is a blackcock-pie; the third 
 a woodcock-pie (with plenty of spices); the fourth a 
 chicken-pie (ditto). As for a pigeon-pie, it is not 
 worthy of a place upon any table, as long as there 
 are chickens in the world. A rook-pie is a bad 
 imitation of that bad article; and a beefsteak- 
 pie is really abominable. A good pie is ex- 
 cellent when hot; but the test of a good pie is: 
 'How does it eat cold?" Apply tins to the samples 
 above cited, and you will find I am correct." 
 RAISED PORK PIES There are establishments in 
 England where these are turneJout by the ton, equal- 
 ing the American pie bakeries, and are shipped to 
 all parts; they are of all sizes but the greater num- 
 ber are of the small sort for retailing at the same 
 average prices as American sweet pies. They con- 
 sist of a case made of hot water paste, which con- 
 sists of % Ib. shortening to each pound of flour and 
 % pt. hot water, stirred up at medium heat(not boil- 
 ing) into a stiff, smooth dough and shaped by hand 
 entirely, the outer wall being pinched and pressed 
 upwards from the bottom. The cut meat and season - 
 ings are then put in, the lid put on in a separate 
 piece; the pie decorated and then baked. The diffi- 
 culty of making'occurs with the large sizes. Those 
 who have attempted to make the article as a home- 
 manufacture, know that the great difficulty is to get 
 the crust sufficiently stiff to stand and keep erect 
 with such weighty contents as are put inside, and^ 
 without disastrous collapse. By a few deft turns 
 of the hand, the palm being most used, the fore- 
 man, at our visit, encased the solid wooden "block" 
 used for the purpose with an even outer casing of 
 paste, until it "stood alone" on the withdrawal of 
 the block, like a good silk dress, supported by its 
 own inherent richness of material. Inside this the 
 solid contents were then placed, the lid was put on, 
 the line of juncture neatly pared off with an instru- 
 ment which left an ornamental border; the flowered 
 "chase- hooping" was passed round the circumfer- 
 ence, to make surety doubly sure; the ornamental 
 foliage or scroll work on the cover, with the heradic 
 arms and manufacturers' stamp was affixed, and the 
 finished article was ready to be sent to the oven. 
 The latter is kept at an evenly regulated tempera- 
 ture, maintained by a thermometer gague;and when 
 the pie eomes out brown, crisp, ;md erect, the work-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 401 
 
 PIE 
 
 man's anxieties are at an end. The better kinds of 
 pies have a richer crust. {See Paste.) RAISED 
 FRENCH PIES Are often made in winter, as they 
 will keep a week or two closely covered, and they 
 are frequently sent, packed in a close tin box, for a 
 considerable distance as a Christmas gift. These 
 pies have standing crust or walls, and may be filled 
 with game or poultry, previously boned, seasoned 
 and stewed, and they are generally made very large. 
 " Put the pie into an oven and bake until brown. 
 The lid must be baked separately. When both are 
 done, remove the bones and bread crusts from the 
 inside of the pie, and fill with the prepared ingredi- 
 ents, which must be previously stewed in their own 
 gravy, with the addition of bits of butter rolled in 
 flour." (See Pate.) AMERICAN PIE A Philadel- 
 phian claims that there are more pies eaten in his 
 city than in New York. He says that Philadelphia 
 makes about 45,000 pies per day throughout the year, 
 which makes 315,000 pies per week, or 1,588,500 for 
 the entire year. In a single day it uses for the 
 average run of pies 40 tubs, 32 qts. each of fruit, 
 300 qts. of milk, 7 barrels of flour, 500 Ibs. of lard, 
 400 Ibs. of cheese, 60 doz. eggs, and various other 
 ingredients in lesser quantities. The total output 
 from all the large concerns is about 20,000 pies daily. 
 Then there are hundreds of small bake-shops and 
 each of them makes from half a dozen to several 
 hundred pies, or altogether about 25,000 per day. 
 This makes the total number about 45,000 per day, or 
 15,885,500 in a year. In New York one of the fore- 
 men of a large factory stated: "In our establish- 
 ment we turn out every kind of pie so far discovered, 
 but there are certain kinds that are staple. These 
 are apple, mince, lemon, grape, raisin, plum, goose- 
 berry, whortleberry, strawberry, peach, raspberry, 
 pineapple, pumpkin, and custard. Apple, mince, 
 lemon, pumpkin, and custard are the favorites. All 
 our material is the best in the market, and we buy it 
 in large quantities, always keeping our orders 
 ahead." " How much material do you use daily ?" 
 asked the reporter. " In a single day we use about 
 loo dozen eggs, 850 pounds of lard, 12 barrels of 
 flour, 600 quarts of milk, 2,500 quarts of fruit, and 
 turn out about 7,000 pies, or about 50,000 a week and 
 2,600,000 a year. The output from the large con- 
 cerns in the city will amount to 35,000 pies daily, 
 and the bakers will turn out about 40,000 more, or 
 75,000 a day, 525,000 a week, and 27,300,000 per year, 
 an average of about sixteen pies per capita." YAI.E 
 PIE Put three or four pounds of steak, seasoned 
 ,with pepper and salt, into a medium-sized dish; cut 
 in pieces two chickens, lay them on the steak, and 
 over them put a dozen oysters, without the liquor, 
 add six hard boiled eggs; pour in half a pint of 
 strong ale; and cover the whole with fresh mush- 
 rooms and half a pound of neat's foot jelly; cov2i 
 the dish with a good paste, and bake in a brisk oven. 
 VEAL PIE "Weal pie," said Sammy Weller, "is a 
 werry good thing when it isn't cats and you know 
 the woman wot made it." 
 
 PIG i 
 
 PIGEONS (Fr.) Pigeons. The same in both 
 languages. 
 
 PIGEONNEAUX (Fr.)- Young pigeons; squabs. 
 PIGEONS " Pigeons, quails, and other dark- 
 fleshed birds have the reputation af being a heating 
 diet, which is probably correct. But, however that 
 may be, one epicurean rule holds good with pigeons, 
 which is, whatever recipes may be given to serve 
 hot, in all forms they are better eaten cold. There 
 are, in fact, only two orthodox ways of cooking 
 pigeons, namely, in a baked pie, and in a boiled pie, 
 
 or pigeon pudding." PHILADELPHIA SquABS-Have 
 
 a great reputation and serve a good purpose as a 
 substitute for game. Old pigeons are really good 
 only in one way, that is, "jugged" or potted, which 
 
 means cooked in a covered jar in the oven for sev- 
 eral hours. FATTENED PIGEONS Bordeaux pigeons 
 may now be seen in the markets in boxes of 12, as 
 large and plump as partridges. We cannot under- 
 stand why the farmers of France are allowed to re- 
 tain a monopoly in fattening pigeons for the table; 
 
 i surely there is an opening here for our own people. 
 
 I BROILED PIGEONS Pluck, draw, singe, and truss 
 your pigeons; beat them until flat, and warm in 
 melted butter, seasoned with salt and pepper. When 
 nearly cooked, remove the pigeons, sprinkle them 
 with breadcrumbs and broil over a moderate fire 
 until a good color. Dish up, covered with piquante 
 sauce. PIGEON AU Riz AUX TOMATES Specialty. 
 One of the special dishes of the Cafe de Paris, in 
 the Avenue de 1'Opera, is pigeon an riz aux tomates, 
 and this dish is prepared as follows : Sautez in but- 
 ter two pigeons, add salt and 3 fine tomatoes cut in 
 4, pipped and peeled. Meanwhile fry in butter 2 
 finely minced onions, and when these are of a nice 
 golden color add 200 grammes of picked rice. Con- 
 tinue warming your rice for 2 or 3 minutes, then 
 moisten with a pint of clear bouillon; allow the 
 whole to cook for 20 minutes, withdraw the pigeons, 
 and add the rice. This dish should be served at 
 once. PIGEON A LA ZETLAND Cut the birds in 
 half, steep in a highly spiced wine marinade, let 
 them Jie for 12 hours. The last hour place on the 
 hot plate, so that they ma}' be half cooked; then 
 drain, wipe the birds dry, wrap in a vine leaf, draw- 
 ing the stalk through the tip of the leaf, dip into a 
 batter and fry. Garnish with fried parsley; brown 
 gravy. POTTED PIGEONS Bone the pigeons, stuff 
 with veal and ham forcemeat highly seasoned; press 
 the birds into deep, brown earthenware dishes, cover 
 with butter well seasoned with mignonette pepper, 
 mace and allspice. When the birds are cooked, lift 
 them carefully out, and whilst hot press into oval 
 pots. To dish, turn out on to dishes covered with 
 lace paper; garnish with light endive, capers and 
 pickled chillies. PIGEON CUTLETS WITH GREEN 
 PEAS-Halves of pigeons simmered in butter, pressed 
 flat until cold, trimmed to shape of cutlets, breaded, 
 broiled; with green peas in the dish. PIGEON As- 
 pic-Stewed pigeons, meat pounded through a seive, 
 mixed with cream and yolks and seasonings over
 
 402 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 PIG 
 
 the fire. Layers of aspic jelly and layers of pigeon 
 puree alternately in a mould, made cold, turned out 
 and decorated. PIGEON PIE Bottom of baking 
 dish covered with thin beefsteak, halves of pigeon 
 on that, hard-boiled yolks, forcemeat balls, mush- 
 rooms, thin slices of bacon, strong beef gravy, crust 
 of pastry on top, baked 1% hours. STEWED PIGEON 
 Partly fried in butter, slice of lean ham, mush- 
 rooms, stock, herbs, seasonings and wine, stewed j 
 together until the sauce is rich enough for gravy. 
 ROAST PIGEONS Cover young pigeons with vine 
 leaves, wrap them up in bacon and roast for J^ hour. 
 Serve with their own gravy, and garnish with water 
 cresses. FILETS DE PIGEONS A LA DUXELLE 
 Breasts of pigeons coated with Duxelles sauce, 
 breaded and fried; Provencale sauce and mushrooms. 
 
 COTELETTES DE PIGEONS AU FUMET DE GlBIER 
 
 Breasts of pigeons breaded and fried, piece of bone 
 stuck in to imitate a cutlet; game sauce. PIGEON 
 CCTLETS Are also made of the halves of pigeons 
 boned, except the leg bone, which represents the 
 cutlet bone, as above, with green peas. 
 
 PIGEONS, WILD There are times in some parts 
 of the country when immense flocks of wild pigeons 
 settle down in the forest for a few days, and the 
 people from the neighboring villages shoot them by 
 thousands, glutting the market for a brief period. 
 With a little experience it is easy to pick out the 
 young birds, which may be roasted or broiled, and | 
 the heavier old ones should have long cooking in a 
 gravy. 
 
 PIG How TO SERVE ROAST PIG "Of late they 
 have got into a trick of serving up the roasted pig 
 witthout the usual concomitants. I hate the inno- ! 
 vating spirit of this age; it is my aversion, and will 
 undo the country. Always let him appear erect on 
 his four legs, with a lemon in his mouth, a sprig of 
 parsley in his ear, his trotters bedded on a lair of 
 sage. One likes to see a pig appear just as he used 
 to do upon the board of a Swift, a Pope, an Arbuth- 
 not. Take away the customs of a people, and their 
 identity is destroyed." PEACH-FED PIG At a re- 
 cent dinner, given by Lady Eardley, one of the most 
 remarkable dishes was cold ham cut from a pig fed 
 entirely on peache?, and imported from America. It 
 was served with aspic jelly and truffles. PIGS AND 
 PARSNIPS There was nothing considered more del- 
 icate in the sixteenth century, nothing more odor- 
 iferous, than the flesh of young pigs fed on parsnips, 
 and roasted, with a stuffing of fine herbs. COCHON 
 DE LAIT A LA SAVOYARDE-Sucking pig stuffed with 
 sausage-meat, rice, shallots, seasonings; served with 
 little sausages, white sauce with wine and mush- 
 rooms. COCHON DE LAIT A LA PERIGEUX Stuffed 
 with truffles, served with Perigeux sauce. COCHON 
 DE LAIT A LA CHIPOLATA Sucking pig stuffed with 
 chestnuts and sausage-meat, served with Chipolata ' 
 garnish. COCHON DE LAIT EN GALANTINE A ; 
 boned pig, stuffed, decorated. 
 
 PIGS' FEET They are put up in package* of all , 
 
 PIX 
 
 sizes in spiced vinegar, making a convenient and 
 very acceptable article of hotel provision all through 
 the season of cool weather. Generally served cold, 
 very often breaded and fried, or broiled, or stewed 
 in white sauce thickened with yolks. PIEDS DE 
 PORC A LA STE. MENEIIOULD Pigs' feet breaded 
 and fried. BONELESS PIGS' FEET Can be bought 
 in cans. They are capable of being cooked in or- 
 namental or shapely ways by being heated and 
 pressed first. 
 
 PIKE Fresh-water fish common and plentiful in 
 America. The pike has been honored with the most 
 elaborate cooking in France, pike a la Chambord 
 being an artistic dish. There are many better fish 
 than the pike, however, and it makes only a good 
 ordinary fry or broil at a moderate price in this coun- 
 try. BROCHET A LA REGENCE "The pike was 
 cooked for 2 hours in strong gravy and 3 bottles of 
 champagne; the stuffing was of pounded crayfish 
 and whiting, and the pike was also covered an inch 
 thick all over with the same, the head and eyes be- 
 ing marked out with chopped truffles, and the body 
 covered with 'bracelets' of truffles and cravfish tails, 
 with rosettes of filleted sole. Bunches of eel-cutlets 
 were not wanting, nor pvramids of mushrooms, nor 
 oysters, nor carps' tongues and milts, nor ten of Ca- 
 rgme's never ending skewers, fitted out with the 
 same garnitures; and then you behold le brocket a la 
 Regence, which some miserable plagiarists had the 
 audacity to put in a menu opposite a dish of small 
 fish!" 
 
 PILAU, PILLAU, OR PILAF-Turkish dish of 
 rice and butter, with or without meat or tomatoes or 
 other additions, generally, however, haviug mutton 
 cut in dice, and a flavoring of fried onions. 
 
 PILCHARD English sea fish like a herring. 
 
 PILOT FISH So called from its being the fore- 
 runner of the shark. The appearance of pilot fish 
 around a vessel is always followed bv the appear- 
 ance of the white-bellied monsters. Pilot fish are 
 captured for market and cooked by frying, broiling 
 and baking. 
 
 PIMENTO Allspice. 
 
 PIXON NUT Mexican nut like the pistachio, 
 about the size of a beech nut. Sold in most city 
 fruit stores. 
 
 PINEAPPLE The pineapple is grown abun- 
 dantly in the Bahamas and all the West India islands 
 and is cheap in all American markets. CANNED 
 PINEAPPLE Is a favorite supper fruit; it is compote 
 of pineapples ready prepared. GRATED PINEAPPLE 
 In this form it is used in pineapple ice cream and 
 pineapple sherbet. See Ices, Sherbets. PINEAPPLE 
 PIE An open pie or tart with grated pineapple and 
 sugar for filling. PINEAPPLE CREAM PIE Grated 
 pineapple mixed with powdered crackers and cus- 
 tard mixture, baked in a crust, not covered. This 
 fruit, can be used in all the principal ways same as
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 403 
 
 PIN 
 
 other fruits, in tarts, marmalade, jeily and pre- 
 serves. (See Apples, Apricots.') 
 
 PINTADE (Fr.) Guinea Fowl. 
 
 PIQUE (Fr.) Larded with strips of bacon or 
 tongue, truffle, mushroom stalks, etc. FII.ET DE 
 BCEUF PIQUE Larded fillet of beef. 
 
 PIQUANT SAUCE Brown sauce made piquant 
 by adding chopped shallots, little vinegar and pep- 
 per, boiled a few minutes, chopped capers and gher- 
 kins added, and meat glaze if only ordinarv brown 
 sauce be used. 
 
 PISTACHIO NUTS Much valued in pastry 
 and confectionery for their pea-green color and al- 
 mond flavor. The nut is gathered in the green state. 
 It is about the size of a filbert, is the seed of a tree 
 which grows in Italy and the East. Is generally 
 found in the Italian fruit stores ready shelled, but 
 has a reddish husk which is removed by scalding, 
 like almonds. The price varies as the crop some- 
 times fails, but a common price is about 40 cents a 
 pound. While the flavor is delicate it is weak and 
 needs the addition of almond flavor to make it com- 
 plete. PISTACHIO ICE CREAM Pounded pistachios 
 and almonds pounded, some spinach juice or safe I 
 vegetable green coloring to heighten the color, i 
 (which, in whatever these nuts are used, should al- | 
 ways be green), glucose, sugar and cream frozen. I 
 PISTACHIO 'FRITTERS Chopped pistachios in twice 
 their weight of sweet fritter batter, dropped by 
 .spoonfuls in hot lard and fried these can be made 
 green fritters by adding spinach green. CREME DE 
 PISTACHES Pistachio ice cream. PETITES ME- 
 RINGUES AUX PiSTACHES-Kiss meringues sprinkled i 
 with chopped pistachios and filled with whipped | 
 cream. BAVAROIS AUX PISTACHES Bavarian [ 
 cream, green, with pounded pistachios and almonds, j 
 sprinkled over when turned out of mould with 
 chopped pistachios. PETITS CHOVX EN GIMBLETTES 
 Ci earn puffs like jumbles, that is, in rings, dipped 
 in syrup, then in chopped pistachio nuts and sugar. 
 PETITS PUITS AUX PISTACHES Little wells of pas- 
 try; i.e., puff paste tartlets, brushed over with syrup, 
 covered with chopped pistachios and sugar and filled 
 with whipped cream. GATEAU DE PISTACHES Pis- 
 tachio cakes made in all the same ways as almond 
 cakes. (See Almond.) 
 
 PLAICE PLIE. 
 
 PLAICE An English flat-fish, larger than a 
 flounder, distinguished by yellow spots on the back. 
 
 PLA 
 
 "Plaice, to be eaten in perfection, should directly 
 it is caught be cleansed, its head cutoff, and then be 
 hungup by the tail, and sprinkled with salt, and left 
 to dry for about twelve hours; if for filleting, the 
 fillets should then be removed and laid in a marinade 
 of lemon-juice, a few drops of oil, pepper, salt, 
 shredded onion, and parsley, for two or three hours. 
 The fillets must be w iped perfectly dry on a clean 
 cloth before using. Treated in this way they lose 
 almost entirely the watery, wooly taste so often 
 complained of." 
 
 PLANTAIN A variety of banana, less sweet 
 than the banana common in the markets and better 
 suited to be baked with sugar. 
 
 PLATE At the sale of a collection of old plate, 
 which took place a few days ago at a country house 
 in Bedfordshire, the extraordinary price of eighty- 
 six shillings per ounce was paid for a pair of old 
 English sconces, date 1718. Nearly as much was ob- 
 tained for a true Queen Anne loving cup, with 
 double handles and cover, dated 17:3. A quaint old 
 heater, with grid-iron, dated 1679, realized no less 
 than sixty-six pounds. It is clear that the prevail- 
 ing "depression" does not in ( the least affect the cur- 
 rent value of objects of art, if they are really of 
 genuine merit. THE ROYAL PLATE, which is prob- 
 ably the finest in the world, is usually kept in two 
 strong-rooms at Windsor Castle, and is valued at 
 two millions sterling. The gold service, which was 
 purchased by George IV from Rundell and Bridge, 
 dines one hundred and thirty persons; and the silver 
 wine-cooler, which he bought about the same time, 
 holds two men, who could sit in it comfortably. It 
 is enclosed with plate-glass, and is splendidly 
 "chased." THE CLEANING AND TREATMENT OF 
 PLATE The best Paris whiting (perfectly clean and 
 free from grit), moistened with spirit or water until 
 about the consistency of cream, should be smeared 
 on the article and lightly rubbed off with a soft 
 chamois or wash- leather. The ornamental parts, 
 where it cannot be rubbed off, brush briskly when 
 dry. Polish with a rouged leather (a little rouge 
 should be placed on the leather from time to time, 
 not on the article); afterwards rinse with hot water, 
 in which a little soap has been dissolved, and care- 
 fully wipe quite dry with a clean leather. FROSTED 
 SILVER Use only whiting and spirit, no rouge. 
 GILT WORK Wipe only with a rouged leather; if 
 badly tarnished, moisten with a little spirit. Leath- 
 ers for cleaning plate should be kept dry. When a 
 leather is washed, it should be rinsed in a weak so- 
 lution of soap and water (water alone would make it 
 hard); and when dry, pulled and rubbed till it becomes 
 perfectly soft. Plate after use should, if necessary, be 
 washed with hot water and soap, and wiped over 
 with a leather before it is put away. Plate keeps 
 its color longest in a dry place, free from gas and 
 other fumes; and, if cleaned according to above in- 
 structions, will last much longer than if cleaned in 
 any other way. In the case of Brittania metal and 
 nickel silver goods (not silver-plated), the plain sur-
 
 404 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 PLA 
 
 face should be cleaned with polishing paste, and the 
 ornamental parts brushed with whiting (as above 
 directed), and finally polished with a leather and dry 
 whiting. 
 
 PLATS (Fr.) Dishes of meats, etc. PLATS DU 
 JOUR Dishes of the day; a few prepared dishes for 
 dinner which one may find at the best restaurants, 
 besides the uprepared dishes which may be ordered 
 from the card. 
 
 PLATEAU The central ornament of a dinner 
 table; sometimes it is a mirror laid flat in imitation 
 of a lake bordered with moss and flowers; some- 
 times it is a raised bank of flowers; at other times 
 a pyramidal device or a temple. 
 
 PLIE (Fr.) Plaice, a fish. 
 
 PLOMBIERES ICE A mixture of ice cream 
 and candied fruits, named for a place. (See Ices.) 
 
 PLOVERS The best plovers are the golden 
 plovers. Tljey were the first birds that were eaten 
 without being drawn, and they are still dressed in 
 this way. BROILED PLOVERS Broiled plovers are 
 very good as a supper dish. They should be simply- 
 broiled as they are, kept -well buttered while cook- 
 ing, and, when ready, served on slices of fried bread. 
 ROAST PLOVERS Plovers should never be drawn, 
 but wrapped up in slices of bacon and roasted. Lay 
 some pieces of toast in the dripping-pan, and serve 
 
 PLOVER PLUVIER. 
 
 the plovers on them. CROUSTADES OF PLOVER A LA 
 PROVENCALE Plovers in brown sauce with garlic t 
 mushrooms, white wine, parsley, served in. cup- 
 shapes of fried bread. FILETS DE PLUVIERS AUX 
 CHAMpiGNONS-Breasts of roasterl plovers with crou- 
 tons spread with the trail, and mushrooms in game 
 sauce. FILETS DE PLUVIERS A LA LucuLLUs-Fillets 
 of plovers covered with forcemeat and served in a 
 border of toasted bread, with a thick puree of plov- 
 ers piled in the center and game sauce around. POT- 
 TED PLOVERS Boned plovers with raw game force- 
 meat packed in a jar with seasonings, wine and es- 
 sence made from the bones, cooked in the oven. 
 Served cold. 
 
 PLOVERS' EGGS Plovers' eggs have, how- 
 ever, a far higher reputation than the birds them- 
 selves. They are delicious little morsels hard-hoiled; 
 they are incomparable in a salad or sandwich; and 
 most admirable of all set like large opals in aspic 
 jelly. " Plovers' eggs are generally eaten hard, and 
 
 PLU 
 
 require seven or eight minutes to cook. They are 
 often used as border for mayonaise salads, or dished 
 up on a rice-stand and garnished with aspic jelly. 
 They iire also served in their shells and dished in 
 a nest of moss. In the latter case slices of brown 
 bread and butter should be handed with them 
 "We have noticed this spring that ready-boiled 
 plovers' eggs appear in the poulterers' windows 
 price 8 cents each." WAYS OF SERVING Plovers* 
 eggs are best au naturel. Some people prepare 
 them in various sauces and gravies, or set them in 
 aspic jelly ; but simply hard boiled - they should boil 
 ten minutes and served either hot or cold (the last 
 for preference), in a napkin, in their shells, or else 
 shelled and prettily ornamented with watercress or 
 parsley, they are more appetizing than when cooked 
 up a la Bechamel, a la tripe, en aspic, etc. SUBSTI- 
 TUTES FOR PLOVERS' EGES When the demand 
 for pheasants' eggs begins to slacken, they might 
 take the place of plovers' eggs. For the table they 
 are very fine eating. The young of the black-headed 
 gull is excellent eating. Its eggs resemble crows' 
 more than plovers' eggs; but vast quantities of them 
 are sold for plovers' eggs. 
 
 PLUCHE Of green herbs for soups and stews; 
 finely cut sorrel, chervil, parsley, etc. 
 
 PLUCK Common popular name of the heart, 
 liver and lights (lungs) of small animals as exposed 
 for sale by the butchers as lambs' pluck, etc. 
 
 PLUMS A considerable number of stone fruits 
 are included in the general name of plum, varying 
 from the large egg plum and greengage to the dam- 
 son in size and appearance. All the ways of cook- 
 Ing and using apricots and most of those named for 
 apples can be employed suitably for plums in some of 
 their varieties. The greengage is especially a choice 
 fruit for the compote dish, and its color, to contrast 
 with the orange yellow of the apricot, gives it a 
 particular value in decorative pastry work. (Set 
 Apples. Apricots, Greengage, Pears, Peaches, 
 Cherries.) 
 
 PLUM PUDDING Peculiar to Christmas in 
 this country, as crepes and pancakes are to Shrove- 
 tide elsewhere. It has been an institution in Britain 
 for centuries, but in olden times was a porridge, a 
 sort of mincemeat, and was eaten before the meats 
 instead of after. There is a story of a late day of a 
 great Englishman abroad who, having distinguished 
 guests to dine with him on Christmas, decided to 
 surprise them with the treat of an English plum 
 pudding, and accordingly instructed his French 
 cook how to make it. But he forgot to tell him the 
 ingredients were to be tied up in a bag, so when the 
 pudding was ordered in the cook with a string of 
 assistants marched in with a procession of soup 
 tureens holding what should have been the pudding. 
 The mixture when prepared had been stirred into 
 the great pot of boiling water and made into soup. 
 SAMPLE RECIPE There are a score or two of dif- 
 ferent recipes for making plum pudd::-.ir; for a good
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 405 
 
 PLU 
 
 sample see Christmas Pudding. This is symbolical: 
 THE PUDDING OF THE THREE KINGS Is a very 
 rich plum pudding, made from the old-fashioned 
 concomitants. A basin is buttered, lined with a thin 
 suet crust; then the pudding mixture is put in to 
 half fill the hasin. This is followed by a rich cus- 
 tard perfumed with orange flower water; a paste 
 cover is put on, and the whole steamed for from 6 
 to 8 hours; turn out and serve with brand}' sauce. 
 The spices and good things represent the gifts of 
 the three kings of Cologne, who were said to be the 
 wise men of the Star of Bethlehem fame; the paste 
 is the casket enshrining the treasures. A PLUM 
 PUDDING y 2 Ib. each suet, currants, sugar, J^ Ib. 
 each citron and candied orange peel, 6 oz. flour, 2 
 oz. t,readcrumbs, % Ib. raisins, i teaspoon ground 
 cinnamon, J4 nutmeg, I lemon rind and juice, I glass 
 brandy, 4 eggs, little salt; boiled 5 or 6 hours. 
 
 PLUM CAKE-Usually called fruit cake. With 
 a pound cake mixture first prepared as a base, any 
 desired amount of fruit may be added with or with- 
 out spices, the color of the cake when done will be 
 according to the spices and fruit contained. {See 
 Dundee Cuke.) GOOD PLUM CAKE Is made of 
 i Ib. buvter, i Ib. brown sugar, 9 eggs, i % Ib. flour. 
 i b. currants, i Ib. stoned raisins or seedless raisins 
 chopped, j Ib. citron, 4 oz. almonds blanched and 
 split, nutmeg, grate.d lemon rind, I glass whiskey; 
 baked in a mould lined with buttered paper. 
 
 PLUVIERS (Fr.) Plovers. 
 
 POACH To cook in a pocket or pouch; to cook 
 in a very little water. POACHED EGGS Cooked in 
 a shallow pan of water in rings muffin rings 
 which keep them in shape, or, cooked in more wa- 
 ter which is made to rotate in the pan by stirring 
 before the egg is dropped in, which carries the egg 
 while the outside cooks in good shape. POACHED 
 QUENELLES Small balls of delicate forcemeat are 
 poached in little broth, to be taken up easily at the 
 right moment. Sometimes the surfaces of large 
 quenelles are decorated and must be poached with- 
 out the decoration being covered. 
 
 POCHE (Fr.) Poached. CEurs POCHES 
 Poached eggs. 
 
 POELE Same thing as mirepoix, except the 
 color. Poele is white or colorless broth of bacon 
 and ham with vegetables, used to boil chickens, 
 sweetbreads, etc., in instead of water. 
 
 POIRES (Fr.) Pears. 
 
 POIREAUX (Fr.> Leeks. 
 
 POIS (Fr.) Peas. 
 
 POISSON (Fr.) Fish. 
 
 POISSONIERE (Fr.) Fish-kettle with drainer 
 in the bottom. 
 
 POITRINE DE VEAU (Fr.) Breast of veal. 
 POITRINE DE V EAL* ROTIE Plain roasted ; brown 
 sauce. POITRINE DE VEAU A LA PRINTANIERE 
 Breast of veal boned, stuffed, rolled up, braised; 
 served with garnish of spring vegetables. 
 
 POM 
 
 POIVRE (Fr.) Pepper. 
 
 POIVRADE SAUCE A peppery sharp sauce, 
 brown. (/) Espagnole with vinegar and broken 
 pepper-corns boiled in it, and a spoonful of wine. 
 (2) Carrot, onion, salt pork in dice, pepper-corns 
 bruised, bay leaf, parsley, thyme; all fried in butter; 
 drained of butter; vinegar and brown sauce added, 
 I or, if no brown sauce, some brown butter-and-flour 
 thickening and water; simmered, strained. 
 
 POKE WEED A tall, showy American wild- 
 plant which bears purple berries. The young leaves 
 are gathered in spring for tender greens. The ber- 
 ries are used for domestic dyes. 
 
 POLENTA Italian corn-meal mush or porridge 
 usually seasoned with grated cheese, butter, or to- 
 mato sauce, or all of them. It is treated in many 
 ways the same as macaroni, being baked with cheese 
 mixed in and on top. Polenta, or mush, is also made 
 of chestnut flour and of wheat farina. POLENTA 
 PUDDINGS Same as American corn-meal puddings; 
 hot mush with syrup, butter, eggs, fruit, cream; in 
 several varieties. POLENTA EMMANUEL Boil i 
 teacupful of Indian corn-meal, stirring till thor- 
 oughly boiled; mix with, first, a small pat of melted 
 butter and grated Parmesan cheese; serve very hot 
 with a rich gravy flavored with tomatoes, and with 
 roast larks or other small birds on top. 
 
 POLONAISE (a la) In Polish style. 
 
 POLPETTI Italian croquettes of minced meat 
 with cheese and other seasonings; fried. 
 
 POMMES (Fr.) Apples. 
 
 POMME-DE-TERRE (Fr.) Earth-apple; the 
 potato. The full name is seldom used, and whether 
 the \vorApomme in a bill of fare stands for apple or 
 potato is to be judged from the context. POMMES 
 NOUVEAUX New potatoes. 
 
 POMEGRANATE A southern fruit of little 
 utility, sufficiently plentiful in the southern markets; 
 the fruit, however, is curious and peculiar and the 
 subject of frequent mention in ancient books, while 
 the small tree which bears it is a most charming or- 
 nament to the gardens and pleasure grounds where 
 it grows, bearing a profusion of showy blossoms in 
 April and May. The fruit is a pulpy, many-seeded 
 berry, the size of an orange, with a hard, brown 
 shell. It is pink or red inside like some varieties of 
 oranges. POMEGRANATE WATER-ICE Juice of 
 pomegranates strained through a seive and the pips 
 excluded, an equal quantity of strong sugar-syrup 
 or glucose added, little lemon juice, orange rind, 
 color to make it pink; frozen. 
 
 POMEGRANATE MELON Often called the 
 pomegranate. It is a tiny green -rind melon, mottled 
 like the pie-melon, and not larger than an orange. 
 Inside it is pink with abundant small seeds, closely 
 resembling the pomegranate. Although pleasantly 
 flavored as a melon its small size precludes it from 
 being grown except as a curiosity.
 
 406 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 POM 
 
 POMPANO Choice southern fish from J pound 
 to 4 or 5 pounds in weight; shaped like the sunfish, 
 or "pumpkin-seed fish," with very small scales, 
 steel-gray color. It has a fine nutty flavor, which is 
 best brought out by broiling. Served with maitre 
 d'holel butter, lemon, fried parsley and fried pota- 
 toes. 
 
 PONCHE (Fr.) Punch. 
 
 POP-CORN A small variety of Indian corn ; the 
 grains burst and turn inside out when parched. 
 There is a great difference in corn, and those who 
 prepare it for sale test every sample in the popper 
 before buying. It has to be kept a year before thor- 
 oughly dry. A bushel of shelled corn will make 
 nearly 4 barrels of popped corn. POP-CORN BALLS- 
 If the corn is to be worked into balls, a mixture of 
 sugar, glucose and gum is poured over it, a handful 
 is taken up and pressed into shape like a snowball. 
 The red pop-corn balls are colored with thin cochi- 
 neal syrup on the hands of the operator. POP-CORN 
 CAKES If pop-corn cakes are to be made, the corn 
 is moistened with hot syrup boiled to the crack, 
 pressed out into sheets, cut into sections and wrapped j 
 in transparent paper. At the Centennial Exposition j 
 the company received $7,000 for the exclusive right 
 to sell pop -corn. CANDIED POP-CORN- Is made the 
 same way as comfits and sugared almonds by stir- 
 ring it over a gentle fire in a candy-kettle, pouring 
 syrup over it from time to time till it becomes lightly 
 coated, the coloring being in the syrup. GROUND 
 .POP-CORN FOR BREADING Croquettes egged and 
 breaded with ground pop-corn have an appearance j 
 like snow covering a brown surface, as the pop-corn 
 does not take color readily. 
 
 POPOVERS Domestic name for a very light 
 muffin made of 2 eggs, 2 cups milk, 2 cups flour, salt; 
 a tablespoonf ul or two of melted butter may be added 
 at option, but is not essential. The eggs whipped 
 light are mixed with the milk and flour, the batter 
 baked in buttered cups. The puffs rise high and 
 hollow. Hot for breakfast. (See Albany Cakts.) 
 
 PORGIES Small fish abundant in New York 
 markets. 
 
 PORK Roast pork should, like lamb, be well 
 cooked, carefully and regularly baked; onion and 
 apple sauce served in separate tureens. LEG OF 
 PORK Laid in salt for 4 days, boiled until nearly 
 done, baked to finish in a pan with stock and chili 
 vinegar; gravy made in the pan. PORK CHOPS, AP- 
 PLE SAUCE Chops breaded and broiled, paper frills 
 put on ends of the bones, to ornament and to handle 
 them at the table by; apple sauce in the dish, and 
 chops around. PORK COLLOPS- -Neat slices of cold 
 roast leg of pork seasoned, broiled; served with 
 mixture of onions and apples stewed together with 
 wine. PORK FRITURE Salt-pork slices soaked in 
 skimmed milk 8 hours, egged, rolled in flour and 
 fried. SELLE DS PORC FRAIS Saddle of fresh pork. 
 GIGOT DE PORC A L'ALLBMANDE Leg of salt pork 
 boiled, with stewed red cabbage, carrots and tur- 
 
 POR 
 
 nips, and poivrade sauce. CARRE DE PORC A LA, 
 RKMOULADE Roast rack of pork, with rernoulade 
 sauce with cl.o.iped pickles. PE-IIT SALE At'X 
 CHOUX Salt pork with cabbage. COTELETTES DE 
 PORC A LA ROBERT Pork chops with Robert sauce. 
 COTELETTES DE PORC A LA BOLOGNAISE Breaded 
 pork chops with grated Parmesan mixed with the 
 crumbs, fried; served with a garnish in center, of 
 mushrooms, tongue, and short pieces of macaroni in 
 tomato sauce. FILETS DE PORC A LA MARECHA~E- 
 Are pork tenderloins cut in round slices, Dreaded and 
 broiled; served -with potato balls. FILETS DE PORK 
 A LA HANOVERIENNE Pork tenderloins larded 
 braised and glazed, dressed in a circle on dish with 
 stewed white pickled cabbage in center, and brown 
 sauce. Can have spinach or apple sauce instead of 
 cabbage, and name according. ESCALOPES DE Pi RK 
 A LA LYONNATSE Pork tenderloin cut slantwise in 
 oval slices, breaded, fried, dressed in a circle, cov- 
 ered with Soubise puree of onions, bread-crumbs on 
 top, and browned. ESCALOPES DE PORC A L'INDI- 
 ENNE Tenderloin slices with curry sauce. BROILED 
 PORK TENDERLOINS (/) Split open, flattened, sea- 
 soned with salt, pepper, powdered sage; broiled; 
 served with a sauce made of the gravy from fried 
 sausages. (2) Served with fried onions, (j) Served 
 with fried apples. (4) Served with butter and fried 
 sweet potatoes, (j) Served with maitre d' hotel but- 
 ter and potato chips. ENTRECOTE OF PORK Pork 
 steak stuffed, rolled up and roasted or braised; onion 
 sauce. GRENADINS OF PORK Same as grenadins 
 of veal. POTTED PORK Pork tenderloins cut small 
 and pounded in a mortar, seasoned with salt and 
 pepper, and sage and rosemary, or with spiced salt; 
 mixed with some hot butter; packed in a jar and 
 baked in slow oven; pressed down again when done, 
 and grease drained off; eaten cold or in sandwiches. 
 (See Backbone, Head Cheese, Echinee, Pig, Saus- 
 ages.) 
 
 PORPOISE Sea-fish of the smooth-skinned sort. 
 "Schools" of porpoises sport in shallow water near 
 the shore and sometimes in advance of a vessel for 
 days at a time. They are captured for their oil. 
 PORPOISE STEAK "The new delicacy in favor be- 
 yond the Atlantic is porpoise steak. The world is 
 overhauling its menu, and hunting up new di-shes. 
 Some one has suddenly thought of the porpoise, or, 
 as the Americans call it, the sea-hog, and the result 
 is a flesh-food described as exquisitely tender and 
 tasty, with a grain as red and juicy as the best cut in 
 a fillet-steak or sirloin. In flavor the porpoise re- 
 sembles venison, and we are pretty sure to hear of it 
 in London before long. If it is as good as reported, 
 it should certainly take its place on the mf/itis of 
 marine hotels." DOLPHIN MEAT "According to a 
 Transatlantic paper, the flesh of the porpoise is sold 
 in Philadelphia as a substitute for beef, under the 
 name of 'dolphin meat.' Ic is described as red, juicy, 
 tender, fine-grained, and of very pleasant flavor." 
 "In the fifteenth century porpoises were brought 
 whole to table, and were eaten with mustard."
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 407 
 
 FOR 
 
 PORPOISE ON THE COALS An ancient bill of fare 
 found in the British museum mentions among the 
 courses of a grand dinner "Porpoise with Peas" 
 and "Porpoise Roasted on the Coals." There is a 
 record of Henry III ordering the sheriffs of London 
 to purchase for him 100 pieces of the best whale, and 
 two porpoises. Henry VIII gave occasion for some 
 witticisms by his fondness for this archtype of obes- 
 ity; if it was too large for a horse-load, an extra al- 
 lowance was made to the purveyor. In Norway a 
 delicate caviare has been made from its eggs. 
 
 PORRIDGE Proper name of "mush," which is 
 but a provincialism. Made of oatmeal, cornmeal, 
 graham meal, fine hominy or grits, ground rice, 
 farina, graham farina, cracked wheat, rolled oats, 
 etc. Some of these need to be soaked in water for 
 some hours before cooking. They are all made into 
 porridge by simply boiling in the requisite quantity 
 of water, and best if in a double kettle or bain-marie. 
 
 PORTERHOUSE CUT The best part of the 
 loin of beef; the portion between the last rib and the 
 hip bone. It is an American specialty, the name 
 having originated in a hotel known as the Porter 
 House. 
 
 PORTERHOUSE STEAK Steaks from the 
 porterhouse cut of beef. They consist of a portion 
 of the fillet or under-cut, a portion of the top loin; 
 portion of the spine bone and little of tjie flank being 
 therefore the best of the beef. The steaks are small ', 
 and narrow at the rib end, and broader towards the 
 butt. 
 
 POSSUM See Offossum. 
 
 POTAGE See Soups. Potage, like English pot- 
 tage, signifies a thick soup, and consomme a thin or 
 clear. Soup includes all descriptions. 
 
 POT -AU-FEU Fire pot; the French national 
 soup. POT-AU-FEU BOURGEOIS "The French na- 
 tional dish is unquestionably the world-famed pot- 
 au-feii, and there is hardly a Frenchman, rich or 
 poor, who does not partake of that savory and nour- 
 ishing preparation at least once a week. This soup, 
 simple as it is, cannot be made properly anywhere 
 but in France, and the assertion, strange as it seems, 
 will be corroborated by all who have tasted it. The 
 meat that has been used to make the soup is eaten 
 afterwards, in conjunction with the vegetables that 
 were boiled in the pot. Thefr>t-au-jeii is made gen- 
 eral!}' in an earthen vessel, used only for the purpose. 
 The meat is put in cold water with a little salt, and 
 set on the fire. When the liquid begins to boil, the 
 pot is drawn back, and the contents allowed to sim- 
 mer as gently as possible for 4 hours. The quantity 
 of meat employed is i Ib. to i qt. of water. When 
 the ebullition begins, care must be taken to remove 
 all the scum that rises to the surface. The vegeta- 
 bles consist of carrots, turnips, onions, leeks, celery, 
 and cabbages. A brown onion (pignon brule) boiled 
 in the pot improves the flavor as well as the color of 
 the soup. A few minutes before serving the soup 
 the meat is taken out of the pot, and the broth is 
 
 POT 
 
 strained through a very fine strainer into the soup- 
 tureen, which should contain some very thin slices 
 I of stale bread." CROUTE-AU-POT "Such is the rec- 
 i ipe for the pot-au-jeu bourgeois, as it is .served in 
 every .small French family ; but if required for a din- 
 ner recherche it changes its na:-. _ on the menu and is 
 called croute-au-fot. In thi> Litter case a fowl and 
 a knuckle of veal are added to make the broth ; the 
 vegetables are cut of an even form, and the slices of 
 bread are replaced by the crust of 2 or 3 French rolls 
 cut the size and shape of half a pigeon's egg. These 
 crusts are fried in some of the clear grease skimmed 
 from the top of the broth, and are handed round on 
 a plate when the soup is served." PouLE-AU-Por 
 "King Henry IV was alluding to the pot-an-feu 
 when he said, in his manifesto to the people of 
 France, that if he !:ved long enough, his ambition 
 was to see every peasant in his kingdom prosperous 
 enough to be able to have a fowl in his pot every 
 Sunday." 'Experienced housewives insist that any 
 contact with metal is sure to spoil the flavor; it is 
 the earthen pot, well seasoned, on which everything 
 depends. In this earthen ppt, then, the French cook 
 will place only the best and freshest meat, the ten- 
 derest and most delicate vegetables; onions and pep- 
 per, those stumbling-blocks of the inexperienced 
 cook, are eschewed altogether, a young leek sup- 
 planting the onion in the pot-au-feu, at least 
 with dainty feeders. Xo single flavor should pre- 
 dominate." 
 
 POTATO "The potato is not in France the 
 homely esculent that it is on this, side the ocean. 
 There are as many ways of preparing it as there were 
 in Goldsmith's time of cooking a nettle-top. Pota- 
 toes are only admitted en robe de c: ambre, that is to 
 say, in their jackets, to the midday meal, and then 
 on unceremonious occasions. They chiefly figure at 
 dejeuners intimes, or dejeuners taken at restaurants 
 where the bifleck aux famines and la cotelette a la 
 puree de pomme de terre are in great favor." 
 POMMES GEORGETTE Specialty of M. Joseph, of 
 the Cafe Paillard. "These are potatoes en surprise. 
 I take a potato and hollow it out, filling the hollow 
 with a salpicon of shrimp-tails drenched in a bisque 
 sauce made of the heads and pounded bodies of the 
 shrimps. Then I cover the potato up and bake it in 
 cinders. It comes to table baked and burnt. I called 
 it Georgette, because I created it on the day of the 
 first night of Victorien Sardou's play of that name 
 at the Vaudeville Theatre. Sardou's play ran only 
 ninety nights. My Georgette has had an unlimited 
 run." POMMES DE TERKE AUX CEurs Specialty. 
 "For serving with cold meat, etc., potatoes cooked 
 after the following recipe, given me by a Parisian 
 chef, are very suitable. The recipe is for famines de 
 terre atix xufs. Put a good-sized lump of butter into 
 your pan; as soon as it is hot, brown some onions in 
 it. Cut some cold potatoes, which have been boiled' 
 in their skins, and afterwards peeled, into slices. 
 Throw these.slices into the pan. Spread over them 
 the well-whipped yellow of two eggs. Salt, pepper.
 
 408 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 POT 
 
 r 
 
 and serve when your potatoes have taken a nice 
 brown color on each side." POMMES HONGROISES- 
 "I discovered these to be the pommes a la lyonnaise 
 slices of boiled potato fried with onion and baked 
 in the oven. At this restaurant, however, the pota- 
 toes are sprinkled with a little grated cheese before 
 they are put into the oven. A decided improvement. 
 The garnish of minced parsley remains, of course, 
 indispensable." POMMES A LA MAIRE Specialty. 
 Potatoes cut in rounds, boiled until barely done in 
 salted water, drained, put into cream which has been 
 reduced to a state of condensed richness by evapora- 
 tion in a steam vessel. "It is the reduction of the 
 cream to one-half its volume that is the special and 
 essential feature of the recipe for potatoes a la 
 Maire, and it is to this special treatment they owe 
 that excellence which constitutes them the leading 
 specialty of Maire's Restaurant." HASH CREAM 
 POTATOES Hash cream potatoes is an acceptable 
 breakfast dish if hot potatoes are used; but cold po- 
 tatoes have a disagreeable flavor, which spoils the 
 dish. Cut three warm boiled potatoes into small 
 even pieces, add them to half a pint of boiled cream 
 and a saltspoonful of salt. Put the mixture into a 
 small tin or baking dish; strew lightly over the top 
 a thin layer of bread-crumbs or grated cheese; add a 
 pat of butter, and bake a delicate brown. ANNA 
 POTATOES A specialty at Delmonico's renowned 
 Xew York restaurants. Cut very thin slices right 
 across the largest potatoes; lay the slices in flat la}'- 
 ers on a small plate that will bear the heat of the 
 oven. Spread fresh butter freely over the potatoes; 
 then add another layer, and so on until the potatoes 
 are about four inches high. "Delmonico's" recipe 
 gives % Ib. fresh butter to 2 large potatoes. Bake 
 until the potatoes are tender, about half an hour, in 
 a quick oven. POTATOES A LA BONNE BOUCHE 
 Slice some boiled potatoes; chop a blade of shallot, 
 also a little parsley very fine; place them in a stewpan 
 with 3 oz. of butter and a pinch of mixed sweet 
 herbs; let simmer slowly 5 minutes, then put in the 
 potatoes, sprinkle some seasoning over them, and let 
 simmer gently for 10 minutes, occasionally stirring 
 to prevent burning. Just before serving squeeze the 
 juice of i lemon over the potatoes. POTATO CRO- 
 QUETTES Steamed dry potatoes with salt, little 
 butter and yolks added ; mashed ; rolled to shape of 
 bottle corks, egged, rolled in cracker dust, fried in 
 hot lard; served with fish and entrees. POTATOES A 
 LA DUCHESSE (/) Same preparation as potato cro- 
 quettes; made into thick roll, sliced off, slices on a 
 floured board patted into leaf shapes, marked with 
 back of a knife, washed over with egg, baked light 
 color; served with fish or entrees. (2) Large cold 
 boiled potatoes sliced, cut with a wetted tin cutter, 
 salted, egged over, baked. POTATOES A LA VIC- 
 TORIA Same preparation as potato croquettes made 
 into round balls, egged over, baked light color in 
 quick oven. POTATOES A LA GASTRONOME Pota- 
 toes cut raw into shape of bottle corks with a tube 
 cutter, boiled barely done in salted water, drained 
 
 POT 
 
 out, finished by frying in hot lard quickly, light 
 color, dredged with fine salt and parsley dust. PO- 
 TATOES A LA MONACO Potato cut raw into shape of 
 silver half-dollars or little thicker, cooked same as 
 a la gastronome. POTATOES A LA JULIENNE Cut 
 raw into very fine shreds like straws, fried quickly 
 in hot lard, dredged with salt and parsley dust. 
 CURLY POTATOES Cut raw with a kind of paring 
 machine into long spirals, fried by throwing into 
 kettle of hot lard; salt and parsley dust. POTATOES 
 A LA SERPENTI:;E An instrument like a cork-screw 
 with auger in center goes through a potato and 
 makes a cord of potato like the strand of an un- 
 twisted rope; these smooth spiral cords are fried as 
 usual ; served as garnish to fish or entrees. POMMES 
 A L'AXGLAISE Boiled in their skins, peeled, cut in 
 quarters if large, shaken up in a hot dish with soft 
 butter, salt and parsley dust; sent in hot with the 
 butter poured over. POMMES DE TERRE EN CHE- 
 MISE Potatoes in their jackets. POMMES A LA 
 MAITRE D'HOTEL Boiled, cut in quarters in hot 
 mai re d'liotel sauce. POMMES A LA CREME AU 
 GRATIN- Boiled sliced in white sauce with Parmesan 
 cheese, bread-crumbs on top, browned in the oven. 
 POMMES AU LARD Stewed potatoes with bits of 
 bacon in the sauce. POMMES A LA CREME Pota- 
 toes in cream sauce; same as "hash cream potatoes" 
 above. POMMES SAUTES Boiled potatoes cut in 
 slices, fried in a frying pan with butter or sausage 
 fat, salt, white pepper, no onions. POMMES A LA 
 MACAIRE "Shoestring" fried potatoes, made by 
 cutting potatoes raw into one unbroken string; 
 there are machines for it. POMMES SOUFFLEES 
 Baked in their skins, the potato mixed with butter, 
 Parmesan cheese, eggs, salt, put back into the skins, 
 set on end in a pan and browned. POMMES FAR- 
 CIES A L'ITALIENNE Like soufflees preceding, but 
 the potato pulp mixed with rice and cheese. POM- 
 MES XOUVELLES A LA CREME New potatoes in 
 cream sauce. POTATO QUENELLES The potato 
 croquette preparation in small balls, rolled in plenty 
 of flour and fried quickly before they burst, as they 
 will if the fat be not hot enough. PUREE DE POM - 
 MES A LA MARIA Mashed potatoes quite soft with 
 cream and butter. POMMES EN SURPRISE "Be- 
 fore I close I'll give publicity to a tasty recipe for 
 cooking a potato (and "fixings") which reaches me 
 from Newfoundland: Bake large potatoes in their 
 skins till three-quarters done, nearly cut off one 
 end; with a fork hollow out the center of the potato 
 and fill in the hollopr with a shaving of broiled 
 bacon, peppered and tightly rolled; close the potato 
 by the lid end, bake for 5 minutes." POMMES A LA 
 BIONON Boiled potatoes in their skins, peeled 
 when cold; inside hollowed and filled with mutton 
 mince highly sea.-oned, end closed with piece of 
 potato, browned in butter in the oven. POMMES A 
 LA REITZ French fried potatoes. POMMES A LA 
 BORDELAISE Cut thin like chips, fried soft, taken 
 up into frying pan and finished with butter, onion, 
 parsley fried together. POMMES A LA BRABAN-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 409 
 
 POT 
 
 CONNE Dish of baked mashed potatoes in which 
 parboiled onions and parsley and cheese are mixed; 
 browned in the oven. POMMEB A LA VILLAGEOISE 
 Hash-cream potatoes. POMMES A LA BRETONNE 
 Cold boiled, in blocks fried with onions; brown 
 sauce. POMMES A LA COLBERT Cold boiled, in 
 blocks simmered in brown sauce with parsley. 
 POMMES A LA XAVARROISE Raw, cut in large 
 blocks, parboiled, fried light color in oil. POMMES 
 A LA ROUENNAISE Preparation as for potato cro- 
 quettes; in very small balls dipped in batter and 
 fried like fritters. POMMES CROUSTADES A LA RE- 
 GENTE Potato croquettes, one end cut off and part 
 of inside hollowed out, filled with patty mixture of 
 lobster, etc., end replaced, served standing' upright. 
 POMMES A LA HOLLANDAISE Cut raw into shape 
 of sections of orange, boiled barely done, drained, 
 shaken up with butter, salt and parsley dust. LONG 
 BRANCH POTATOES Long strings cut with ma- 
 chine, fried. FRIED PCFF POTATOES French 
 fried, cooked slowly while the fat gradually cools, 
 -drained, thrown at once into very hot fat and 
 browned. They puff out; to be served as soon as 
 done. SARATOGA CHIPS Sliced raw extremely 
 thin with a machine, washed and steeped in water 
 for the starch to settle, drained, fried curly and crisp 
 in plenty of hot lard; fine salt dredged over. "At 
 the bakery it was learned that the concern has a 
 monopoly of the business'in this city, and that there 
 are only three makers of Saratoga chips in the coun- 
 try. Chips are an American institution, and are 
 not known abroad save from some small lots that 
 have been exported. The process of manufactur 
 ing is in part a secret. The potatoes are peeled and 
 sliced by machinery. They are washed and then 
 dried between muslin cloths. If they were now 
 fried, the amount of starch that they contain would 
 make them brown, and the secret of the business is 
 to remove all of the starch, so that the chips will be 
 perfectly white. When this is done they are put 
 into the hot grease, and come out curled and crisp 
 and with the delicious flavor that has made them 
 famous the world over." BROILED POTATOES 
 Cold boiled or raw potatoes either can be broiled 
 and buttered while broiling. FRENCH FRIED PO- 
 TATOES Raw, cut in 12 or more strips lengthwise, 
 throivn into hot lard, fried ligtit brown and drv, 
 fine salt. STUFFED POTATOES Baked in their 
 skins, part of inside removed, seasoned with cheese 
 and butter, put back and end replaced. POTATOES 
 A LA PAKISIE.NNE Potato balls scooped out of raw 
 potatoes with a "potato spoon" in size of cherries, 
 fried in hot lard. POTATOES A LA CONDE Bails 
 twice as large as the preceding, boiled barely done, 
 finished by frying very light color in hot lard; fine 
 salt and parsley dust. BROWNED POTATOES A 
 I-'ANGLAISE Balls size of crab apples formed with 
 the largest "potato spoon" to imitate new potatoes, 
 but all precisely alike, parboiled, finished in a pan 
 with roast meat fat in the oven. POMMES A LA 
 BREBANT Large dice cut from cold boilded pota- 
 
 POT 
 
 toes, sauteed in f rying pan with minced onion ; salt 
 and parsley. LYONNAISE POTATOES Sliced cold 
 boiled potatoes in a frying pan with minced onion 
 in butter or fat; salt, pepper and chopped parsley 
 added while frying. POTATOES A LA MILITAIRE 
 Croquette preparation in small balls fried. More 
 of same formed in a tin mould like a conical tent 
 and the center of it filled with minced chicken; the 
 tent turned out in center of dish, egged over, 
 browned, and cannon balls piled around it with 
 decorations of green. 
 
 POTATO SOUPS See Soups. 
 
 POTATO SALADS See Salads. 
 
 POTATOES IN SWEET DISHES Noth- 
 ing in the domestic history of the potato is more 
 curious than the slow degrees by which cooks came 
 to treat the tuber as a savory and not as a sweet dish 
 as an accompaniment to the strongest meats in- 
 stead of a kind of confectioner}'. Houghton, writ- 
 ing in 1681, speaks of the potato as a pleasant food 
 which may be eaten boiled or roasted with butter 
 and sugar. That he means our common potato is 
 plain, because in the same paragraph he alludes to 
 another and longer kind, the sweet potato, or "bat- 
 tata." Eleven years before Houghton's " Collec- 
 tions" appeared, however, Mistress Hannah Wollej* 
 had dedicated to the "Truly Virtuous Mrs. Grace 
 Buzby, daughter of the late Sir Henry Gary, Knight 
 Banneret, and wife of Mr. Robert Buzby, Gentle- 
 man and Woollendraper in London," her " Queen- 
 like Closet or Rich Cabinet stored with all manner 
 of Rare Receipts in Preserving, Candying, and 
 Cookery." The worthy Hannah has a solitary re- 
 ference to the"Solanum Tuberosum": it is a rec- 
 ipe for making a potato-pie. You are to have your 
 pie-dish and crust ready and "lay in butter," and 
 then "your potatoes boiled very tender," with whole 
 spice and marrow, dates, and the yolks of hard eggs, 
 blanched almonds, pistachio nuts, "candied peels of 
 citron, orange and lemon." Then the crust of the 
 potato- pie is to be closed, and, when baked, the dish 
 is to be served with wine, butter and sugar. Writ- 
 ing nearly eighty years afterwards, Mrs. Hannah 
 Glasse, in her "Art of Cookery," prescribes among 
 the ingredients of a potato pudding, eggs, sugar, 
 butter, nutmeg, currants, half a pint of sack, and a 
 pint of cream. POTATO CAKE This is very simple; 
 steamed potato mashed up, a little flour and butter 
 worked in, with sugar, currants, sultanas, and chop- 
 ped peel. Form it into a rather soft dough. Roll 
 it out to the size of a dinner-plate, and about an inch 
 and a half or two inches thick. Place it on a greased 
 baking sheet, mark it across with the back of the 
 knife into eight or sixteen divisions; wash the sur- 
 face over with egg, bake, slip it on to a plate, dust 
 over with pulverised sugar, and serve hot. AMERI- 
 CAN POTATO PIE Steamed potatoes mashed, mixed 
 with butter, sugar, eggs, nutmeg and sherry, baked 
 like a custard in a pie plate lined with paste, no top 
 crust, fine sugar over when done. (See Smeet Pota- 
 toes.)
 
 410 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 POT 
 
 POTATO PASTY A meat pie having a bottom 
 and top crust of mashed potatoes instead of flour 
 paste. 
 
 POTATO FLOUR Potato flour is extensively 
 manufactured in Germany, and is used by sausage 
 makers, bakers, confectioners, and cooks for pow- 
 dering purposes. Weaving establishments use it to 
 give their goods a glossy appearance, and to size the 
 threads in the woof. It is also used in the manufac- 
 ture of starch, potato sugar, and white syrup. 
 
 POTATO STARCH The potato starch which 
 settles at the bottom of the tub of water in which 
 large quantities of Saratoga chip potatoes are steeped 
 is saleable to candy makers. It may be washed over 
 again in clear water as starch does not dissolve in 
 water that is cold; when settled again the water 
 can be poured off and the starch then dried and 
 powdered. It is used in shallow trays to receive 
 the imprints of fancy bon-bons and creams, these 
 being the moulds into which the new-made candy 
 is poured. 
 
 POTATO POISOX " No one should buy their 
 potatoes of grocerymen who let them stand in front 
 of their stores in the sun. Potatoes belong to the 
 f Solanum' family, of which the deadly nightshade 
 is one of its full brothers. All branches of the fami- 
 ly contain more or less of that poisonous narcotic 
 called 'solanine.' The bulb, or potato, contains the 
 least of this, unless they are exposed to the sun, 
 which rapidly develops this element." Potatoes 
 which have been so exposed have an acrid, bitter 
 taste and bite the palate like mustard. But they are 
 not past recovery. Let them be buried in the earth 
 two feet deep for several weeks and they come out 
 equal to newly-dug tubers, well-flavored and whole- 
 some. 
 
 POTATO SPIRIT We are told by the French 
 authorities, and we have no reason to doubt the 
 veracity of their statements, that nearly one-half of 
 the brandy imported into Her Imperial Majesty's 
 British domains is nothing more or less than potato 
 spirit one of the very worst and fiery of spirits, 
 heretofore supposed only to be used by absinthe- 
 makers of the most unprincipled type. The modus 
 operandi of its preparation for the British market is 
 somewhat similar to the treatment employed in the 
 making of sawdust brandy from the sawpit refuse, 
 and the dust of pine and fir trees. The potato un- 
 dergoes treatment with sulphuric acid and water to 
 develop or change the dextrin into grape sugar 
 This, after many hours' boiling, is mixed with a cer- 
 tain proportion of lime, which causes a precipitate, 
 and destroys or changes the sulphuric acid taste and 
 qualities. It is then fermented with sound malt 
 leaven foraboutthree days, when it is distilled, giv- 
 ing an abundant yield of pure spirit of the strongest 
 and most virulent type. 
 
 POTIRONS (Fr.) Vegetable marrows; same as 
 giraumons. 
 
 PRA 
 
 POT HERBS The soup bunch sold by market 
 gardeners. 
 
 POTTED MEATS They are of two classes. 
 (i) The pasted meats like the potted tongue, ham, 
 etc., sold in cans at the fancy grocery stores. (2) 
 Hot or cold meats cooked by slow baking in a 
 Covered jar, same as English jugged meats. (See 
 Potted Hare, Jugged Meat f.) 
 
 POTTED CHAR "While you can obtain pot- 
 ted char in London, do not dream of a journey to 
 Worcester for the sake of lampreys. This charm- 
 ing fish, the poisson rouge of St. Evremond, is 
 without question the most exquisite breakfast lux- 
 ury we possess; it stands far in advance of all pot- 
 ted things, and our minor poets should lay the fact 
 to heart that it was after a meal of charthat Words- 
 worth wrote his "Ode to Immortality" fit product 
 of the ethereal feast." 
 
 POULE-AU-POT SOCIETY Association of 
 Paris hotel and restaurant keepers for social pur- 
 poses, the name having reference to the national 
 soup. 
 
 POULE-AU-POT Chicken pot; the richer pot- 
 au-feu. (See Pot- au- Feu.) 
 
 POULET (Fr.) Pullet. 
 
 POULETTE, SAUCE Cream-colored, made of 
 broth or strained chicken liquor thickened with flour 
 and butter and then with yolks. Parsley and lemon 
 juice to finish. It is Allemande sauce with parsley. 
 
 POULARD (Fr.) Female capon. 
 
 POUND CAKE See Madeira, Geitoise. The 
 same sort made of i Ib. sugar, % Ib. butter, 10 eggs, 
 i Ib. flour. Pound cake is the familiar American 
 term while the other names and variations of quality 
 are little known. 
 
 .POUSSIN (Fr.) Spring chicken. PETITS POLS- 
 SINS Very young chickens. 
 
 PRAIRIE HEX Ruffed grouse. For ways of 
 cooking seegrouse. The prairie hen is abundant 
 in the Western states, gathering in flocks of 50 or 
 more in the neighborhood of corn fields. This bird 
 is very much better when cooked in its simplest 
 manner than if overseasoned with artificial flavors. 
 It is generally served in the restaurants split open 
 and broiled like a chicken, with butter and currant 
 jelly. One bird is generally enough for two por- 
 tions if full grown. However, only young birds 
 should be broiled, the old ones may be potted or 
 made into pies. The breast of the prairie hen is the 
 principal part of it, and is very solid meat. PRAI- 
 RTE HEN PIE Prairie hens are very good in a pie. 
 Choose two plump birds, pluck, draw and wipe 
 them; cut off the legs at the first joint, and remove 
 the heads; season them inside with pepper, salt, 
 butter, and minced parsley mixed together. Line a 
 pie-dish with slioesof ham and seasoning of pepper 
 and salt; put the birds into the dish, add more slices 
 of ham, pour over them half a pint of good beef 
 stock; line the edges of the dish with puff paste, and
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 411 
 
 PRA 
 
 cover over with it; brush over with yolk of egg, 
 and bake in a not too fierce oven. ROAST PRAIRIE 
 HEN " Prairie hens, grey hens, black game, ptar- 
 migan, and capercailzie are in season. The first 
 named are excellent eating, and better plainly roast- 
 ed than cooked by any other method." 
 
 PRAIRIE OYSTER A raw egg broken in a 
 bar glass, vinegar and pepper on it, taken raw. 
 
 PRAIRIE DOG "This bold gastronomist, in- 
 stead of being offended at the idea, thought that 
 he would see what prairie-dog was like. He shot 
 two, had them cooked, and liked them so much that 
 he got through the bulk of the brace at one sitting. 
 His son, he says, had a prejudice against eating 
 dog, but he overcame his prejudice sufficiently to 
 taste the dish, and the result was that he finished it." 
 
 PRAWNS A larger kind of shrimp. The 
 canned shrimps so-called are prawns. These grow 
 to an extraordinary size on the coast of the Gulf of 
 Mexico, some specimens reaching a length of 8 or 9 
 inches without the horns and being large enough to 
 cut in lengths after being divested of their shells. 
 Prawns can be cooked in a variety of ways and are 
 excellent plain to eat cold. Nearly all the ways of 
 preparing lobsters and crayfish for the table are 
 suitable for prawns, as in patties, pies, salads, as- 
 pics, curries, soups, stews and gumbo. (See Cre- 
 rettes, C/ievreltes, Crei-ettes-Boucs. 
 
 PRETZELS "After many inquiries, I have at 
 last discovered the address of the bakery in Paris 
 which supplies such brasseries as Dreher's, Vetzel, 
 etc., with the thirst-provoking Bretzel. It is a firm 
 of Alsatian origin, the founder of which introduced 
 this insidious pastry into Paris. This house has al- 
 most exclusively the Bretzel trade in its hands, and 
 does a colossal businees, for the Bretzel is now as 
 popular with French beer drinkers as it is beyond 
 the Rhine. Six vans are continually engaged in de- 
 livery. The firm also deals in ox muzzle, a favorite 
 specialty for salads, Munster chee e, and black 
 bread." These Bretzels are commonly called Pret- 
 zels in this country. They are made of common 
 bread dough well baked as if for crackers. They 
 are dropped first into boiling lye, when, if just 
 proved enough they sink for % minute and then 
 rise. They are taken out, salt sprinkled over them, 
 and then baked. 
 
 PRINTANIERE (a la) With young spring 
 vegetables, asparagus points in particular. 
 
 PROFITEROLLES One of the three or four 
 names attached to the hollow puffs popularly known 
 as cream puffs, or cream cakes; the variations in the 
 fillings and flavorings are, however, numerous. 
 The profiterolles are small like walnuts when baked 
 and hollow, and are either served in soup or rolled 
 in syrup and chopped almonds, etc. (See Queen Frit- 
 ters.) 
 
 PRUNES French plums, well known in the 
 dried state. They are used stewed for supper fruit 
 
 PUD 
 
 and can be made into puddings, roly- polys, pies, 
 and mixed in cakes. 
 
 PRUNELLES Small prunes of an acid nature 
 produced in California, used as stewed fruit. 
 
 PTARMIGAN The white grouse, white only 
 in winter. Otherwise called spruce grouse. It in- 
 habits high, mountainous regions. Its flesh tastes 
 of the spruce leaves upon which it feeds, but not 
 unpleasantly. Cooked as grouse and prairie hens. 
 
 PUDDINGS A number of the old standard pud- 
 dings can be found described under the respective let- 
 ters ; the list to follow here are names likely to be met 
 with in French bills of fare. WHENCE COMES PUD- 
 DiNG-"English 'sweets' have an acknowledged place 
 of honor in the science halls of the greatest French 
 chefs. Le pouding is 'the pudding,' nothing more, 
 nothing less; English by its name and English by 
 its nature." POUDING AUX POMMES Apple pud- 
 ding of alternate layers of bread crumbs and 
 stewed apples. POUDING AUX MAKRONS Chest- 
 nut pudding. POUDING AUX FIGUES Fig pud- 
 ding. POUDING AU Riz Rice pudding. POUDIXG 
 AU GINGEMBRE Ginger pudding. POUDING AU 
 CHOCOLAT Made of sponge cake crumbled, moist- 
 ened with raw chocolate custard, steamed. POU- 
 DING AUX CARAMEL A mould or individual small 
 moulds are coated inside with cand)- made by melt- 
 ing sugar over the fire without water; the moulds 
 are then filled with strong custard or other suitable 
 mixture and steamed. When turned out the cara- 
 mel coating comes with it and serves as sauce, as it 
 is nearly dissolved. POUDING A LA MARMELADE 
 A marmalade of any variety. POUDING AU BISCUIT 
 DE SAVOIE A sponge cake pudding with brandy 
 poured into it. POUDING AU PAIN Bread pudding 
 of any of the numerous varieties. POUDING AU 
 PAIN Bis Brown bread pudding. POUDING AUX 
 ABRICOTS An apricot pudding or apricot cream 
 tart. POUDING A LA VICTORIA A variety of plum 
 pudding with dried cherries instead of raisins. POU- 
 DING AU MACARONI Macaroni pudding. POU- 
 DING AU VERMICELLE Vermicelli pudding. POU- 
 DING A LA C'REME DE Riz Ground rice pudding. 
 POUDING AU TAPIOCA Tapioca pudding. POUDING 
 AU SAGOU Sago pudding. POUDING A L' ANANAS 
 Pineapple pudding or cream tart; POUDING AU 
 CITRON Lemon pudding. POUDING DE CABINET 
 Cabinet pudding. POUDING GENOISE A jelly roll 
 made of a sheet of genoise cake roiled up with jam. 
 TANSY PuDDiNG-"Of all the old-fashioned, simple- 
 hearted old puddings formerly common, even in 
 London eating-houses, cowslip and tansy were the 
 most characteristic. Shakespeare no doubt partook 
 of both of them. In both cases the tansy and cow- 
 slip have about as much to do with the puddings as 
 the flint stone has with the proverbial broth. The 
 pounded tansies are mixed with eggs and cream, 
 spinach- juice, Naples buiscuits, sugar, white wine, 
 and nutmegs. The mixture is thickened over the 
 fire, then put into a dish lined with paste and baked.
 
 412 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 PUF 
 
 This may not sound well, nevertheless it was a cur- 
 rent pudding we mean a popular pudding not so 
 many years ago." POUDING DIPLOMATIQUE 
 Diplomatic pudding. A cold cream ornamented in 
 a mould. It is made like jaune-mange, or velvet 
 cream, or Italian cream; a yolk of egg custard with 
 gelatine in it enough to solidify it when ice cold, 
 and flavored with brandy and vanilla. The mould 
 is coated with clear wine jelly by turning it about 
 on ice and decorated with candied fruits stuck on 
 the cooling jelly. More candied fruits are mixed in 
 the yellow cream which is then poured in to fill up 
 the mould. POUDING DE CABINET GLACE The 
 same yellow cream with gelatine in it as for Diplo- 
 matic, but the mould lined with lady fingers like a 
 charlotte, on the sides and the bottom covered with 
 ratafias. Thick cream mixed with the gelatine cus- 
 tard. All set in ice and turned out and served very 
 cold, with whipped cream. POUDING SOUFFLE A 
 LA PRINCESSE Yellow yolk of egg custard made 
 with cream as for Diplomatic, then mixed with 
 apcicot marmalade diluted with orange juice. When 
 nearly cold some whipped whites mixed in, set on 
 ice in a mould. In all these there should be i oz. 
 gelatine to each quart. With too much gelatine the 
 compositions are hard and leathery, with too little 
 they will not keep shape. (For other puddings see 
 Ices.) 
 
 PUFFS Two distinct sets of pastries are under- 
 stood by this designation: puff-paste tarts, turn- 
 overs, vol-au- vents, Banburys, Coventries and the 
 like on the one hand and on the other a variety of 
 cakes made of peties-choux paste, represented by 
 cream puffs and eclairs. A score or more different 
 cakes are included in this class, mostly baked, but 
 some are fried, as Spanish puffs. 
 
 PUITS (Fr.) Wells. Applied to tartlets of puff - 
 paste which are tall and have a cavity in the center. 
 PETITS PUITS D'AMOUR Little Love's wells; tall 
 puff tartlets filled with jelly. 
 
 PULLED BREAD In most good establish- 
 ments " pulled bread " is served with cheese, it be- 
 ing an acceptable substitute for the usual bread or 
 buiscuits. Pull a loaf while steaming hot apart 
 pull, not cut; take a fork and dig out pieces of the 
 hot bread the size of large nuts, leaving them rocky. 
 Place these "snaps" back in the oven, and leave 
 them until nicely brown. Do not, however, let 
 them harden too much, or they will be almost un- 
 eatable instead of being nicely crisp. A stale loaf 
 may be treated in the same way, but the "snaps" 
 will not be quite so nice. 
 
 PUMPKIX One of the American specialties. 
 PCMPKIN VINE GREENS Real spinach is, of 
 course, out of the question in July, August, and 
 September, but several toothsome substitutes are 
 obtainable. For instance, a glorious dish of sum- 
 mer spinach may be obtained by pinching out the 
 growing points of pumpkin vines two or three inches 
 in length. These, when cooked and served as 
 
 QUA 
 
 spinach, are of the loveliest emerald-green color, and 
 most delicious flavor. 
 
 PUMPKIX PIES One quart of sifted pumpkin, 
 one quart of rich sweet milk, 12 eggs, % pound of 
 butter, i pound of sugar, 2 grated nutmegs, 4 spoon- 
 fuls of rose water. Bake the mixture in a puff- 
 paste in pie pans. PUMPKIN BUTTER Marmalade 
 made by stewing down pumpkin with sugaror light 
 molasses, ginger to flavor. BAKED PUMPKIN (i) 
 Slices in a baking pan with salt and roast meat fat 
 baked until tender. (2) Southern way, slices in a 
 baking pan with sugar and butter baked with fre- 
 quent basting. (3) Sections of pumpkin not peeled, 
 baked without any addition, served like baked po- 
 tatoes. MASHED PUMPKIN Steamed or baked, 
 mashed like potatoes, and browned in the oven. 
 DRIED PUMPKIN Thin slices hung upon strings 
 and dried form a regular article of merchandise at 
 some country stores; the "pumpkin chips" only 
 need soaking in water to be as good as when fresh 
 for making pumpkin pies. CANNED PUMPKIN Can 
 be bought for hotel use in even- town. PUMPKIN 
 BREAD Steamed and mashed pumpkin is used in 
 some sections to mix with corn meal or meal and 
 flour to make a sweetish kind of cake. 
 
 PUXCH Said to be named from a word signi- 
 fying five, because of its five ingredients: sugar, 
 lemons, spirit, water, spice. (See Drinks, Ices, 
 Spirits..) PUNCH AND TURTLE "Punch is cer- 
 tainly too strong and tasteful with turtle soup, thick 
 or thin, and it is barbarous and old-fashioned to 
 ! drink it. It impairs the sensibility of the palate for 
 | all wines afterwards. If wine must be drunk at the 
 turtle stage of a dinner, perhaps fine madeira or 
 sherry is least objectionable." 
 
 PUREE Mashed ingredients rubbed through a 
 sieve or a colander. 
 
 PURSLAXE A garden weed with thick, fleshy 
 stalks and leaves ; it grows prostrate and spreads 
 over the ground in rich soil. Is eaten in European 
 countries. POURPIER ENFRITURE A LA MILANAISE 
 Fried purslane. It is punctured and rolled in cin- 
 namon, dipped in batter and fried. 
 
 PYROLIGXEOUS ACID Used in sugar boil- 
 ing to prevent graining and is said to give better 
 keeping qualities to the candy than the other acids 
 used. This acid also preserves meat from spoiling; 
 it is the principle in smoke which cures bacon and 
 sausages. 
 
 QUAILS Plentiful in almost every American 
 market in the winter season, and the standard dish 
 is broiled quail on toast. This habit or custom in 
 regard to the cooking, although, of course, sponta- 
 neous in its origin, is strictly in accord with the ver- 
 dict of cultivated epicures upon the merits of the 
 quail. THREE WAYS "There are in Paris, in the 
 cuisines both of the best restaurants and of private 
 . houses, three approved ways of cooking quails,
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 413 
 
 QUA 
 
 namely, as cailles a la macedoine, cailles an riz, and 
 roasted. Of these various ways I greatly prefer the 
 .alter, as I think, and you will doubtless agree with 
 me, that the quail, and especially the vine-quail, can 
 stand very well on its own merits of flavor alone. 
 The quail is at its best when roasted without the 
 addition of a hundred-and-one kickshaws, however 
 savory and intrinsically meritorious these kickshaws 
 may be." ROAST QUAIL- "The best recipe for roast- 
 ing quails, and serving them, is one copied from the 
 Cooks' School (Ecoledes Cuisiniers), which I accord- 
 ingly reproduce with a strong recommendation. 
 Scorch your quails, clean and restore livers, spit 
 them through the thighs with a little spit, with a 
 small slice of crustless bread between each bird; 
 secure the roast with a skewer passed through 
 each end of the spit; butter the quails with a brush; 
 roast before a sharp fire, basting them carefully for 
 10 minutes, which is sufficient time to allow for the 
 roasting; salt them and take them off the spit, serv- 
 ing on a hot dish with the bastings for sauce poured 
 over them, and surrounded with slices of lemon." 
 VINE QUAILS- "Egypt is the great source of supply, 
 but for quality and size the quails of Italy bear off 
 the palm, and epicures discover in them what they 
 call the 'Amontillado flavor," which is attributable 
 to the birds' feeding on the succulent shoots of the 
 vine. These birds should not be dressed in any other 
 fashion than roasted or en papillotfs. The quail, fair 
 in form, pleasant in color, and delicate in flavor, is 
 utterly spoilt if plunged in any liquid, for so evanes- 
 cent is the distinctive taste of the bird, that a sharp 
 fire alone will prevent it from evaporating." 
 CAILLES DE ViGNE-"One of the sights of the streets 
 of Paris to-day are the hand-carts full of live quails 
 (cailles de -vigne) which are wheeled about by itin- 
 erant poulterers. The quails are covered in with a 
 wire netting, through which the customer selects 
 those that promise the most succulence. The birds 
 are usually taken home and killed just before cook- 
 ing. The price of a plump quail is 20 cents, while a 
 very fine bird will bring ten cents more." STEWED 
 QUAILS "In such a dish as a compote of quails, any 
 flavor the bird might originally have possessed is 
 utterly ruined by the bacon, the parsley, the green 
 onions, the mushrooms, the sauce, and the season- 
 ings with which the stewed caille is smothered. 
 'This dish,' the illustrious chef Ude somewhat pa- 
 tronizingly informed his foreign patrons, 'would not 
 do for an English dinner,' an opinion in which we 
 entirely agree. A galantine of quails is not much 
 better. CAILLES BARDEES "But in roasting, the 
 fewer the trimmings the better the bird. A vine leaf 
 tied over the breast and covered with a slice of fat 
 bacon (the method known as barding) is quite allow- 
 able, and though a garnish of water-cresses is not 
 forbidden, only a barbarian would souse the plump 
 mouthfuls in brown gravy. Eaten with toast which 
 has absorbed the trail in the roasting-pan, the quail 
 is a prime dainty, and the man who does not overdo 
 \+ mav credit the tale of Hercules having been re- 
 
 QUA 
 
 called to life after such a dietary, and pity the Rom- 
 ans, who ceased only after feasting at Attic ban- 
 quets to believe that the coturnix caused epileptic 
 fits." CAILLES A LA DUCHESSE "To return to my 
 list of specialties of Parisian restaxirants, I would 
 advise all diners who visit I-aperouse's house on the 
 Qual des Grands Augustine during the autumn 
 months to order, whether it be on the daily menu or 
 not, a dish of cailles an riz, sometimes called cailles 
 a la Duc/iesse. To prepare them at home proceed as 
 follows: Clean and scorch 12 fat quails, putting 
 their livers back; put them into a pan with some lard 
 and about % Ib. of salt pork (petit sale) cut into little 
 dice. Brown rapidly by tossing them in the pan over 
 a brisk fire; when three-quarters cooked, pour over 
 2 glasses of good bouillon, add a bouquet of parsley, 
 a leaf of laurel, a clove of saffron, and some cayenne- 
 pepper. Let the liquor reach boiling point three or 
 four times, and then pour into it J Ib. of picked rice 
 which has been previously washed with care. Three 
 minutes later cover up the pan, and allow the rice to 
 cook over a slow fire. When this has taken place, 
 take out the bouquet of parsley, and serve the rice 
 on a plate, surrounded by the birds." BONED 
 QUAILS A LA CENDRE The chef de cuisine at the 
 Cafe de Paris gives the following recipe for a spec- 
 ialty at his excellent restaurant, namel}-, cailles a la 
 Cendre. Bone your quails; fill them with a stuffing 
 composed of poultry breast, bacon, and minced truf- 
 fles; roll the birds, and butter them slightly. Place 
 them in a row oh a baking-tin, on a strip of abaisse, 
 or dough rolled out thin. Arrange the abaisse so as 
 to keep the birds together whilst baking, to which 
 proceed after wrapping them in a sheet of butter- 
 paper. Cook at moderate heat for 40 minutes. Re- 
 move the abaisse, and serve. CAILLES A LA MACE- 
 DOINE Quails.braised in stock and wine, with their 
 livers and some chopped ham inside them, and bacon, 
 ham, herbs and vegetables in the braise; served on a 
 macedoine of vegetables. CAILLES AUX LAITUES 
 Quails braised and served with stewed lettuce (like 
 partridge and cabbage.) CAILLES AUX PETITS Pois- 
 Quails with green peas. CAILLES A LA PERIGEUX- 
 Stuffed with the livers, bacon, and truffles; roasted; 
 served with Perigeux sauce. TURBAN DE CAILLES 
 A LA FINANCIERS Roast quails cut in halves, 
 dished in a circle with a financiere garnish in the 
 center. COMPOTE DE CAILLES Stewed in stock 
 with wine, with slices of sweet-bread, ham, truffles, 
 herbs, and croutons to border. CHAUDFROID DE 
 CAILLES Roast quails, the meat cut in dice in a 
 chaudfroid sauce; served cold in small rolls made 
 for the purpose. QUAILS WITH JAM An American 
 paper says that blackberry jam is the newest epicu- 
 rean wrinkle for eating with broiled quail. 
 
 QUAHAUG A large variety of clam; esteemed 
 for its flavor although only a portion is eatable. 
 The favorite way of cooking is egged, breaded and 
 fried same as oysters; the clams appear to be in 
 strings in consequence of the hard portions ha\ ing 
 been removed as they were opened. Can be bought
 
 414 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 QUA 
 
 in cans. Quahaugs arc more largely used for fish 
 bait than for eating. They are unknown on the 
 other side of the Atlantic. 
 
 QUASS Quass, the fermented cabbage water of 
 the Russians, is their popular tipple. Next to beer, 
 it has more votaries thau any other fermented bever- 
 age. 
 
 QUASSIA CHIPS To be bought at the drug- 
 gists. An infusion in boiling water with syrup 
 makes fly- poison. 
 
 QUEEN PUDDING-A meringue pudding, made 
 of a rich bread custard baked one inch in depth in a 
 pan, spread over when barely set with fruit jelly or 
 marmalade, covered with soft meringue, sifted sugar 
 on top and baked light color. Eaten with cream. 
 
 QUEEX FRITTERS-The popular name of beig - 
 nets souffles, made of the same peculiar paste as 
 petits-chaux ar\Aprt>Jilerol/es, and cream puffs, which 
 is i pint water, 7 oz. butter or lard, 9 oz. flour, 10 
 eggs. The water and butter boiled together, flour 
 dropped in and stirred and cooked to paste, eggs 
 well beaten in, off the fire, one at a time. Small 
 spoonfuls dropped in hot lard enough to float them, 
 expand and become hollow. Eaten with sauce or 
 powdered sugar. 
 
 QUEEN'S CAKES-Small drop cakes made of % 
 Ib. each butter and sugar, 4 or 5 eggs, % Ib flour, J^ 
 Ib. currants. Dropped on paper with the bag and 
 tube, sugared on top, baked. 
 
 QUEEN'S TARTS Grated rind and juice of 2 
 oranges and I lemon, 4 oz. sugar, 5 yolks. Makes 
 a sort of orange custard, the juice being in place of 
 milk. Filled into patty -pans with puff paste bot- 
 toms, baked. 
 
 QUENELLES Small balls or egg shapes of 
 pounded white meat. The most elaborately made 
 have the meat pounded in a morter and forced through 
 a seive. They are served in consommes and soups 
 and enter in sever.il of the standard garnishes which 
 give names to dishes. They are sometimes made to 
 inclose a highly flavored mince, (see Consomme 
 Nationale,) and again are made in flattened shapes 
 and the upper surfaces decorated with truffles made 
 to adhere with white of egg. DOMESTIC QUE- 
 NELLES "Quenelles are another delicate and attrac- 
 tive form in which cold veal or fowl can be served. 
 Moisten one cup of finely crumbed bread with three 
 tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, drain as dry as 
 possible, add two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 
 and as much finely chopped meat as you wish; work 
 in well one beaten egg, and season all thoroughly. 
 Flouring your hands, form the paste into round 
 balls, rolling them in flour when shaped. Bring to 
 a boiling heat in a saucepan one large cup of well 
 seasoned gravy, drop in the quenelles, and boil fast 
 five minutes. The gravy can be thickened and 
 poured over them, or they can be rolled in flour or 
 cracker crumbs, and fried in lard or butter, draining 
 off all the grease before serving." 
 
 RAB 
 
 QUINCE A fruit like a pear in shape, asef ul for 
 preserving, for making jelly and marmalade, but of 
 little importance in comparison with the other large 
 fruits. It is found at its best put up in cans, the 
 long cooking of the canning process being an ad- 
 vantage with so hard a fruit. Can be used in a ma 
 jority of the ways given for other fruits. (See Ap- 
 ples, Apricots, Pears.) 
 
 R. 
 
 RABBIT Rabbit meat evidently occupies an 
 equivocal position in the list of delicacies. It is un- 
 questionably good food. Young rabbit compares 
 favorably with chicken and is made to do duty for 
 chicken sometinies, particularly in the way of 
 canned chicken, potted chicken and in puree soups 
 and pies. Yet one may see that rabbit is not re- 
 garded as a luxury in this country in the fact that it 
 is never found in the bill of fare of the dearer class 
 of restaurants and is never in the game course of 
 any high-class dinner, although it may occasionally 
 be found in some more elaborate shape amongst the 
 entrees. It makes all the difference whether such 
 game is scarce and has to be guarded and fostered 
 by gamekeepers in private hunting preserves, or 
 whether it is so plentiful naturally as to be the 
 cheapest of all meat, as it now is in nearly every 
 place, for the western farmers find the rabbit a pest 
 that despoils them of their growing crops, and turn 
 out in winter in concert and destroy them as vermin 
 by the wagon loads. In Australia the plague of 
 rabbits is so serious as to claim the attention of the 
 government, and the canning of rabbit meat and ex- 
 port of rabbits in a frozen state has made this meat 
 as plentiful and common in London as it is in our 
 western towns after a heavy fall of snow, when 
 rabbits are taken by the thousands. Still it supplies 
 a vast amount of good, fresh meat to tens of thou- 
 sands of poor people who might otherwise seldom 
 taste any. The foreign styles of dressing rabbits 
 here mentioned are to elucidate the contents of 
 French menus; the home methods of cooking rab- 
 bits may be at once summed as being thasame well- 
 known ways as for chickens. LAPEREAU A LA Pot, 
 LETTE " Paul, I hear, has made a splendid thing of 
 it. He made his name by means of certain special- 
 ties of his, which no gourmet who respects himself 
 can, if anywhere near Pourville, pass on without 
 tasting. These specialites are Canard au sang, 
 Matelotte Normande, and Lapereau a la poulette, 
 in all of which Paul, who is his own chef, excels. 
 Cut up your rabbit into pieces. Fry these in butter 
 until firm; but not long enough to brown them. Let 
 the butter run off, and let the meat get cold. Then 
 lard the fleshy parts with strips of excellent bacon. 
 Put the pieces back into the saucepan, with a spoon- 
 ful of flour and a bouquet of herhs, moistening with 
 a glassful of white wine and a little bouillon. When 
 the cooking is half finished, add some onions, some 
 mushrooms cut into pieces, and allow the stewing 
 to finish over a slow fire. When well cooked, strain
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 415 
 
 RAB 
 
 the sauce, skim off fat, bind with the yolks of two 
 eggs, and pour it over the meat which you have 
 meanwhile arranged on a dish. Just before serving, 
 squeeze the juice of one lemon all over the dish." 
 RABBIT WITH SPINACH Bone the thighs and legs, 
 replace the bones by pieces of bacon, sew up the 
 openings so as to put the limbs in proper shape 
 again, and put it on the fire in a saucepan with 
 slices of bacon, small onions, carrots, thyme, pars- 
 ley, a bay leaf, and some stock. Let 'Jie whole cook 
 for two hours on a slow fire; then strain off the 
 stock, and serve the rabbit, cut up, en spinach. 
 FILLETS OF RABBITS Cut the fillets from two rab- 
 bits, lard them with fat bacon, and shortly before 
 they are wanted put them into a tin in a hot oven, 
 with plenty of butter, and a little salt strewn over 
 them (the tin should be covered with a sheet of but- 
 tered paper); they will only take a few'minutes to 
 dress, and should be served with the dish garnished 
 with small mushrooms, slices of lemon and parsley. 
 Liver sauce is generally sent to table with them. 
 RABBIT A LA KIRKHAM Boned rabbit. Pieces with 
 the bones taken out. Some rabbit meat run through 
 the sausage machine and made into forcemeat with 
 bread-crumbs and seasonings, part of it stuffed in 
 place of the bones, some spread on the outside of 
 the pieces, egged, breaded, fried; fumet sauce made 
 of the bones, with wine. JUGGED RABBIT Potted 
 rabbit. Wash a. large rabbit, and cut into joints; 
 dredge with flour, and fry lightly in butter or drip- 
 ping, with a few pieces of lean ham. The meat 
 should only be half cooked. Place immediately in 
 a stew jar with pepper, salt, and the chopped rind 
 of half a small lemon. Cover the meat with gravy 
 or stock, and stew gently for two hours. About 
 twenty minutes before serving thicken the gravy 
 with a little cornflour, and simmer in it a few force- 
 meat balls. LAPEREAUX A L'AMGLAISE Stewed 
 rabbit with Soubise sauce. PATE CHAUD DE LAPE- 
 REAUX Rabbit pie, hot. LAPEREAUX A LA JARDI- 
 NIERE Rabbits in a white stew with vari-colored 
 vegetables cut in balls with the potato spoon. LA- 
 PEREAUXA LA TA VERNIER White stew with but- 
 ton onions and mushrooms. LAPEREAUX GRILLES 
 Young rabbits flattened, cooked on the broiler, 
 spread with maitre d'hotel butter, served with bor- 
 der of buttered toast in triangular shapes. LAPE- 
 REAUX A LA VILLAGEOISE Stuffed and roasted, 
 brown onion sauce. CIVET OF RABBIT See Civet. 
 GALANTINE DE LAPINS Boned, stuffed, rolled up 
 in a cloth, boiled, pressed into some shape while 
 cooling, decorated with aspic jelly. (See Galan- 
 tines,') 
 
 RACINES (Fr.) Certain vegetables; turnips ( 
 carrots and potatoes served as a garnish. 
 
 RADISHES In an emergency white turnip 
 radishes may be cooked and served in the place of 
 young turnips, and many prefer them to turnips 
 when nicely cooked. To PREPARE FOR TABLE 
 Radishes should be kept in ice water; the long reds 
 should be scraped or thinly pared in stripes, a stripe 
 
 RAR 
 
 of white showing with a stripe of red. Round 
 radishes may be cut with the point of a penknife so 
 that the outside will curl backwards from the white 
 core like a flower in shape. Radishes are eaten with 
 the fingers like olives and asparagus. GOLDEN 
 RADISHES In the oblations of garden fruits which 
 the Greeks offered to Apollo in his temple of Delpos, 
 they dedicated turnips in lead and beets in silver, 
 whereas radishes were presented in beaten gold. 
 RADISH TOPS Make excellent greens cooked as 
 spinach. RADISHES ix SALAD Much good use of 
 radishes can be made in the decoration of salad 
 dishes, and they are good cut up in various green 
 salads. 
 
 RAGOUT The old term for Garnish. (See Gar- 
 nishes.') A ragout is a rich compound stew, the 
 components being all in small morsels. 
 
 RAIE (Fr.) Ray or skate, sea fish, RAIE A LA 
 NOISETTE Cut in pieces without bone, boiled, 
 served in butter sauce with the pounded live* of tfie 
 fish and tarragon vinegar. 
 
 RAIFORT (Fr.) Horseradish. 
 
 RAISED PIES See Pates, Pies. 
 
 RAISINS (Fr.) Grapes. GLACE EAU DE RAI- 
 SINS Grape water ice. TARTE DE RAISINS VERTS 
 Green grape pie. 
 
 RAISINS DE CORINTHE (Fr.) Zante cur- 
 rants. 
 
 RAISINE DE BOURGOGXE Ripe pears 
 boiled in grape juice, the juice previously boiled 
 down to double strength like a natural syrup, the 
 pears, when done stewing, further reduced by bak- 
 ing in jars. 
 
 RAMAKINSorRAMEQUINS The latter is 
 the French spelling, but is oftenest used. They are 
 cheese puffs or little puddings of cheese baked in 
 paper cases. Made of % pint milk, a oz. butter, i 
 large tablespoon flour, 2 oz. grated cheese, 4 eggs, 
 pepper, milk and butter boiled together, thickened 
 with the flour; cheese added and eggs well beaten 
 at last; baked in little cases or cups. For lunches 
 or club suppers. RAMEQUINS A LA RAYMOND 
 The same mixture as queen fritters with enough 
 grated cheese mixed in to flavor it well, baked like 
 puffs on pans, dusted with grated cheese before 
 taken from the oven. RAMEQUINS A LA SEFTON 
 Or Sefton's fancy, invented by an epicure of that 
 name. They are puff paste with grated cheese rolled 
 in the layers cut in small shapes and baked. RA- 
 MEQUINS SOUFFLES Cheese puffs in paste cups. 
 The mixture made same as frangipane with cheese 
 and salt instead of sugar. When cold whipped 
 whites mixed in, baked in cups or cases. They rise 
 high and are to be served immediately. RAME- 
 QUINS A LA GENEVOISE Pounded butter and hard 
 boiled yolks with grated cheese spread on small 
 shapes of bread and baked. 
 
 RARE An English Americanism. At a din- 
 ner in Philadelphia a few years ago some one asked
 
 416 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 RAS 
 
 an English lord, who was one of the guests, if he 
 would take his duck rare. "Rare, rare?" queried 
 the noble lord ; "now there is another of your Amer- 
 icanisms, which makes it so difficult to understand 
 you; and pray, what do you mean by rare?" There 
 was a good American present who promptly piped 
 out from the other end of the table: " \Ve mean In- 
 rare, my Lord, what Dryden meant when he wrote: 
 'Roast me quickly an egg, and see that it be rare." 
 
 RASPBERRY One of the choicest fruits, most 
 perishable, and of a very transient season. Most 
 valued as raw fruit for breakfast. RASPBERRIES 
 AND CREAM Berries served in glass dishes or 
 saucers, cream aside in small pitcher. RASPBER- 
 RIES WITH ICE CREAM A spoonful on top of the 
 cream in the plate. RASPBERRY ICE CREAM 
 Raspberries mixed in ice cream at the finish of 
 freezing, that they may not entirely lose their shape. 
 RASPBERRY SHERBET Berries rubbed through a 
 strainer mixed with syrup and frozen white of eggs 
 added at last. RASPBERRY SHORTCAKE Cakes of 
 short-paste or puff-paste about ^ inch thick, baked 
 on plates split open, spread with ripe berries and 
 sugar between and on top. Served with cream. 
 RASPBERRY MERINGUE Sheet of cake in a pan, 
 berries an inch deep spread over it, sugar, soft me- 
 ringue an inch deep on top, lightly baked, cut in 
 squares. RASPBERRY CHARLOTTE Bread crumbs 
 and berries with sugar in alternate layers in a but- 
 tered pan, butter on top, baked. Eaten with cream. 
 RASPBERRY PUDDINGS AND PIES See Apples, 
 Blackberries, Cherries. RASPBERRY TRiFLE-Sponge 
 cake in a shallow^glass bowl, saturated with sweet- 
 ened raspberry juice, then covered with whipped 
 cream and bordered all around with bunches of rasp- 
 berries. RASPBERRY SYRUP Strained raspberry 
 juice boiled with an equal measure of sugar, kept 
 in bottles, used for all sorts of raspberry prepara- 
 tions; in drinks, in ice cream, sherbet, sauces, etc. 
 RASPBERRY VINEGAR Is a good sauce for all sorts 
 of flour and egg-puddings, and pancakes. Made by 
 putting a quart of raspberries and a quart of vine- 
 gar together in a jar to remain 8 days, the liquor 
 then strained off and i Ib. of sugar to each pint al- 
 lowed, boiled up, bottled. TARTE DE FRAMBOISES 
 Raspberry open pie. PAIN DE FRAMBOISES A 
 mould of raspberry jam mixed with gelatine, with 
 cream in the center. CREME DE FRAMBOISES 
 Raspberry cream. (See Bavarois.) GELEE DE 
 FRAMBOISES Raspberry jelly. GLACE CREME DE 
 FRAMBOISES Raspberry ice cream. RASPBERRY 
 OMELET A sweet omelet having thick stewed rasp- 
 berries in the center rolled up in it. Sugar on top. 
 
 RASPINGS The bakers rasp off the brown crust 
 of loaves which may be too dark and the raspings 
 are used to give a browned appearance to some 
 baked dishes and to roasted hams. 
 
 RATAFIA A cordial strongly flavored with the 
 kernels of stone fruits; made bv steeping some 
 hundreds of kernels of peaches, apricots, necta- 
 
 RED 
 
 rines and cherries in a gallon of brandy with a pound 
 of loaf sugar, for several months. Used for flavor- 
 ing liquors, drinks, ice cream, etc. 
 
 RATAFIAS Small macaroons often named in 
 cookery directions, made of 3 oz. sweet almonds, 2 
 : oz. bitter almonds, 2 whites, i dessert spoonful 
 brandy in the almonds while pounding, 8 oz. susjar. 
 Drops size of 5 cent piece dropped on paper ami 
 \ baked; see Macaroons tnese are the same more 
 I highly flavored. Used as cakes, but also as flavor- 
 ings in puddings and creams. 
 
 RAYIGOTE SAUCE Ravigote Vtrlc ; Mayon- 
 i naise sauce made green with a mixture of chopped 
 ,' parsley, chives, chervil, tarragon and shallot and 
 spinach green or parsley juice. 
 
 RA VIGOTE SAUCE HOT White butter sauce 
 | containing vinegar and finely chopped parsley, tar- 
 ragon and chervil. 
 RAVIOLIS See Italian Cookery. 
 RAW STEAK Sometimes ordered by invalids. 
 "In certain parts of Germany and France, a 'deli- 
 cacy' is much patronized by a great many people 
 which is eaten absolutely raw. A raw steak ( as 
 fresh as it can be got) is minced, mixed with finely 
 chopped shallots and parsley, and seasoned to taste 
 with salt and pepper. A raw egg is broken over 
 this mess, and the dainty dish is placed before one, 
 with oil and vinegar to add as fancy may dictate." 
 SCRAPED RAW STEAK As called for in American 
 hotels the steak is generally required to be scraped 
 with a sharp knife from a broad round steak, it 
 being a pulp of raw meat, the seasoning depends 
 upon the order. 
 
 RAY A specie of flat fish of which there are 
 several varieties. (See Skate.) 
 
 RICHAUFFE (Fr.) A re-cooked dish; cooked 
 meat served up in some fresh form. Equivalent to 
 kedgeree. 
 
 RED AXTS Sprigs of winter-green or ground 
 ivy will drive away red ants; branches of worm- 
 wood will do the same for black ants. The in>ccts 
 may be kept out of sugar barrels bv drawing a wide 
 chalk mark round the top near the edge. Spirits of 
 turpentine will keep all insects from storerooms by- 
 putting a few drops in the corners and upon the 
 shelves. Cocoa sprinkled about the places infcsttG 
 by red ants will very soon drive them away. 
 
 RED FISH Local Louisiana name of the sea 
 bass or channel bass. It is pale red when freshly 
 caught, but not red like the snapper. 
 
 REDHEAD DUCK Ranks next to canvas-back 
 in quality; is often substituted for it; cooked in the 
 same wavs. 
 
 RED SXAPPER-One of the very finest American 
 fishes. Its flesh is the whitest and very firm, if there 
 be a defect at all it may be that the flesh is too firm. 
 Its flavor is delicate without being so decided as to 
 repel the people who do not like fish in general. It 
 is the most satisfactorv fish to fry for bivakfast, the
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 417 
 
 RED 
 
 whiteness of the meats howing through the breading 
 and affording a fine color which some other fish 
 never acquire in the pan. The snapper is abundant 
 also, being found in the markets of every consider- 
 able town of the middle and southern states and 
 beyond. In color is like the gold fish in the globes, 
 but attains a noble size. How AND WHERE IT is 
 CAUGHT This magnificent fish is one of the most 
 common in the Gulf of Mexico. It is gorgeously 
 colored, very graceful in all its movements, and 
 unusually wary and capricious. In weight it ranges 
 from 2 to 35 Ibs., averaging 7 Ibs. Its home is in 
 the strictly salt waters of the Gulf a short distance 
 from the coast. There it lives on the bottom at a 
 depth of 60 to 240 feet. The ocean floor of Florida 
 declines gently at first, for a distance of from 30 to 
 50 miles from the shore, to a depth of 300 feet, then 
 very abruptly decends to a depth of 600 feet, beyond 
 which the slope is more gradual to a depth of about 
 13,000 feet. The first slope is a sandy one; the 
 second is sandy, rocky and muddy, while the third 
 is wholly muddy. The surface of the second with 
 its uneven rocks afford homes and comparative se- 
 curity for all kinds of small marine animals, such as 
 crabs, barnacles, corals, etc., etc. The red snapper is 
 most prominent in these communities. It is one of the 
 largest, most active and handsomest species. Its 
 life is spent about the patches of rocks, swimming 
 about 6 feet from the bottom among tall branching 
 oscols and waving- grasses in a lazy graceful man- 
 ner, forever on the alert to dash upon some reckless 
 smaller fish. Ordinarily it has about fifty species of 
 beautifully delicate fishes to select its food from. 
 Among these are rare fishes that live only about the 
 coral reefs of warm seas. Even the most celebrated 
 little fish of the Romans the red mullet, that was so 
 highly esteemed by the epicure emperors, furnishes 
 an occasional meal for the red snapper. In conse- 
 quence of living upon food of this character, the 
 flesh of the red snapper is peculiarly firm and sweet, 
 being disposed in regular layers that make it espe- 
 cially desirable for serving at the table. The red 
 snapper is caught altogether with hook and line. 
 Vessels carrying 6 to 8 men go from home as far as 
 250 miles, being then about 50 miles from land. The 
 places where the fish live is found by sounding- 
 lines that indicate the depth known to the fisher- 
 man, and that have baited hooks attached which are 
 quite sure to get a victim if there are fish near by 
 and they are disposed to bite. The vessels are 
 anchored over the spot or allowed to drift across it, 
 while the fishermen ply their lines as rapidly as 
 possible. Eacli man handles a single line, which 
 has two large hooks and several pounds of lead at- 
 tached. "When the fish are hungry they bite as fast j 
 as the lines are lowered to them, and even rise near 
 to the surface of the sea in their eargerness, biting 
 at the bare hooks or anything that is offered. From 
 this habit they have gained the name of snappers. 
 Very often two large fish are hooked at once, and 
 then the fisherman has a hard pull, for the snapper 
 
 REE 
 
 is gamey. While it is so easily captured at times, 
 there are spells when it cannot be lured by any kind 
 of bait or snare. BOILED RED SNAPPER Put in 
 enough hot water to cover well, resting on the 
 drainer bottom, with salt and little vinegar; sim- 
 mered about yi hour, lifted out by means of the false 
 bottom, and onto a dish, served with any of the 
 usual fish sauces; caper sauce is especially suitable, 
 and Hollandaise potatoes. RED SNAPPER STUFFED 
 AND BAKED Cooked with the head on, the fish 
 having the back bone removed, without quite sever- 
 ing the skin, from the back, and the bone separated 
 from the head at the shoulders; stuffed and restored 
 to original form, fastened with twine. Baked with 
 slices of salt pork in the pan; served with tomato 
 sauce made in the same pan. RED SNAPPER, FLOR- 
 IDA STVLE Split down the back and laid open in a 
 pan, the skin side down, the upper surface dusted 
 over with salt, white pepper, coloring pepper; set 
 in the oven to get hot; taken out in a few minutes, 
 and warm butter poured over; then baked brown 
 with frequent bastings; served with lemons and to- 
 mato catsup. RED SNAPPER AU COURTBOUILLON 
 For a fish of 5 to 8 Ibs. is required 2 teaspoons col- 
 oring pepper, J^ teaspoon black pepper, % teaspoon 
 cayenne, 2 cloves of garlic sliced thin all these to 
 be placed in water ready in a cup. Next, i onion 
 lightly fried in lard, J^ can tomatoes added, fish in 
 pieces put in, pepper mixture added; cooked lomin- 
 utes, J^ cup flour to thicken; served with fried bread. 
 RED SNAPPER A LA BEAUFORT Fish boiled whole 
 in kettle with stock, white wine, water, aromatics; 
 when done, upper-side skin removed, fish glazed, 
 decorated with lobster coral ; served with matelote 
 sauce of oysters, shrimps, etc. 
 
 REED BIRDS The reed birds of the North are 
 the rice birds of the South. They swarm on the rice 
 plantations to an extent that becomes serious through 
 their depredations upon the grain, and at times all 
 available hands have to be kept on the watch with 
 guns and scare crows on that account. In this way 
 the birds acquire the fatness which makes them 
 equal to the ortolans and fig-peckers of Italy. REED 
 BIRDS A LA BEECHER The following, except per- 
 haps the oyster, was Henry Ward Beecher's favorite 
 way: "One of the dishes was 'reed bird,' and the 
 novel way in which these were served \vill interest 
 some readers. They were prepared by the cook tak- 
 ing a raw potato, cutting it in t\vo and scooping out 
 enough of the inside to make a hole big enough to 
 hold a reed bird, an oyster and a little butter. These 
 were boxed inside the potato, the whole tied up and 
 baked." REED BIRDS WITH MUSHROOMS Among 
 the most acceptable of entrees is a dish of birds with 
 mushrooms. Truss 2 doz. reed birds, or other small 
 birds, as for roasting; put into each a button mush- 
 room, of which have a heaping pint after all the 
 stalks are removed; put the birds and the remaining 
 mushrooms into a stewpan, season them with a very 
 little salt and pepper, and add either ^ Ib. of fresh 
 butter (divided into four and slightly rolled in flour)
 
 418 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 REF 
 
 or i pt. of rich cream. Cover the stewpan closely, 
 set it over a moderate fire to stew gently till the birds 
 and mushrooms are thoroughly dry and tender. Do 
 not open the lid to stir the stew, but occasionally 
 give the pan a vigorous shake. AVhen the birds are 
 ready to serve, lay them on toast with the mush- 
 rooms placed around. BROILED REED BIRDS 
 Trussed with the head left on and tucked under the 
 wing, their own liver and bit of butter put inside, 
 run side by side on a skewer with a very thin slice 
 of parboiled bacon between each, and broiled on the 
 skewers over clear coals. Served on toast-garnish 
 with lemon and parsley. PHILADELPHIA SPECIALTY 
 -"The reed bird, like terrapin and canvas-back duck, 
 is an exclusively American luxury. Our Philadel- 
 phia contemporary, Progress, avers that the cook 
 who cuts off the head of this feathered dainty 
 'throws away the most delicious bit of a delicious 
 morsel.' " REED BIRDS IN ENTREES In France 
 the small bird is esteemed an epicure's morsel, and 
 is dressed in a variety of fashions, e. g. t wrapped in 
 calf's udder and roasted, broiled in cases lined with 
 quenelle forcemeat, or cooked in beef marrow sprin- 
 kled with chopped mixed herbs, lemon juice, and 
 grated crusts of bread. For salmis they are cooked 
 in precisely the same way as any ordinary game 
 would be. For a -vol-au--vent the reed bird would 
 be boned, stuffed with a rich forcemeat, and served 
 in -vol-au-vent cases, with mushrooms and a well- 
 made white sauce. A la Parisienne they would be 
 boned, stuffed with a game forcemeat and small 
 truffles, then braised, and sent to table arranged on a 
 dish in a crown shape, with veal quenelles in the 
 center, and a game sauce. These fanciful ways of 
 dressing are generally employed for entrees. REED 
 BIRDS COLD In some towns and villages of North- 
 ern Italy small birds are treated with the same ap- 
 preciative kindness. They are roasted on a spit be- 
 fore a sharp fire, and then laid in pickle for a day or 
 two, and then served cold. (See Alouettes, Afattvi- 
 eties, Ortolans.) 
 
 REFORM, SAUCE Named for the formerly 
 famous Reform Club of London where Soyer of- 
 ficiated and Ude before him. It is poivrade sauce 
 combined with port wine and currant jelly. 
 
 REINE (Fr.) Queen. PATTIES A I.A REINE 
 Queen patties. POTAGE A LA REINE Queen's soup, 
 or to the queen's taste. 
 
 REINE-CLAUDE (Fr.) Green-gage plum. 
 REINE CLAUDE ICE See Ices and Gateaux. 
 
 RELISHES See Appetizers. 
 
 REMOULADE, SAUCE Same as ravigote 
 in appearance, made of hard-boiled yolks pounded 
 with mustard, oil and vinegar, and minced garlic 
 and parsley. 
 
 RENAISSANCE (a la) Newly -made, re- 
 formed, made over again. Applied only to whole 
 fishes or birds, or complete pieces, like a boar's 
 head, which are formed in natural shape again by 
 the cook. 
 
 RHU 
 
 RENNET Liquid used to mix with fresh milk 
 to change it to sweet curd, whereof cheese is made. 
 This sweet curd is useful also in some kinds of des- 
 sert, as curds with clotted cream, and, drained as if 
 for cheese, it is mixed with eggs, etc., in various 
 sorts of cheese cakes. Rennet is obtained by soak- 
 ing the inside lining of a calf's stomach (cleansed 
 and prepared) in water. " Get a calf's bag from the 
 butcher's in some places they keep them already 
 pickled for the purpose. If you can get one pickled, 
 cut it in halves, and put half in about a pint and a 
 half of strong salt and water; let it stand a dav or 
 two, then use the rennet as required, taking care to- 
 add fresh salt and water in proportion as it is taken 
 out, to keep up the supply. The other half of the 
 calf's bag keep in reserve in the pickle as it comes 
 from the butcher, and as the rennet from the first 
 half becomes too weak, add a portion of the second 
 half to keep up the strength. About a tablespoon - 
 ful to two quarts of milk is the amount required; let 
 stand in a warm corner for 2 or 3 hours. 
 
 REVENIR or FAIRE REVENIR Short ex- 
 pression used in French recipes to indicate the pre- 
 liminary half-frying of the ingredients, which is 
 practiced in three-fourths of the dishes prepared by 
 French methods. The outside of the meat and 
 vegetables are quickly fried and after that the stew- 
 ing begins, stock and wine being added to the for- 
 mer contents of the saucepan. 
 
 RHUBARB When preparing rhubarb, particu- 
 larly for pies, see what a metamorphosis takes place 
 by the judicious addition of a little candied lemon- 
 peel, a little fresh lemon-peel, a squeeze of lemon- 
 juice, and a few sultanas. You will be surprised. 
 RHUBARB PIES Rhubarb will take the flavor of 
 other fruits very readily, thereby enabling the cook 
 to vary the tarts, etc., sent to the table; for instance, 
 a little lemon-peel for addition one day, a few 
 blanched and chopped almonds another, a spoonful 
 of strawberry jam for a third day, plain rhubarb the 
 next, and so on. RHUBARB MERINGUE Fill a deep 
 pie-dish with alternate layers of rhubarb, sweet- 
 ened and seasoned with nutmee, and slices of stale 
 sponge cake. Bake twenty minutes. Whisk the 
 whites of three eggs thoroughly, add three table- 
 spoonfuls of sifted white sugar; spread this evenly 
 over the top. Return to the oven for fifteen minutes 
 to brown. RHUBARB FRITTERS Peel young rhu- 
 barb and cut the stalks into lengths of about two 
 inches, dip each piece into batter and fry in boiling 
 lard until a nice golden brown. Serve fritter very 
 hot, well powdered over with sugar. RHUBARB 
 AND BATTER PUDDINGS Fill a buttered pie dish 
 with rhubarb cut as for a tart. Make a rich batter 
 with two or three eggs, allowing a tablespoonful of 
 flour to each egg, and sufficient milk to form the 
 mixture into a thick cream. I J our it over the rhu- 
 barb, bake and serve with fine white sugar and 
 melted butter. RHUBARB CHARLOTTE Dish lined 
 with slices of bread dipped in butter and sugar, 
 filled with cut rhubarb well sugared, covered with
 
 THE -STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 419 
 
 bread, baked. RHUBARB COMPOTE Red rhubarb 
 cut 3 inches long, set on side of range in cold water; 
 when scalded, but not boiled, taken up; the water 
 boiled down to a pint, i pound sugar added, boiled 
 to make syrup, poured over the rhubarb. To be 
 served as other compotes. RHUBARB JAM Rhu- 
 barb is very wholesome, and also one of the most 
 useful articles of food, coming in, as it does, when 
 apples go out of season. Made into jam with the 
 aid of a few oranges, it makes a tasty, useful, and 
 very cheap dish. RHUBARB CHAMPAGNE" When 
 making punch for a party, instead of champagne, 
 use a quart bottle of rhubarb ivine. According to 
 the legend of a friend of mine, himself a writer and 
 expert on wine subjects, ' Lord Haddington, who 
 was the greatest wine connoisseur of his day, could 
 not tell champagne from rhubarb wine;' and the 
 fact of its being 'rhubarb' would ensure its not 
 playing 'old gooseberry' with your guests." RHU- 
 BARB WINE To begin with, choose a good juicy 
 kind of rhubarb, the more delicate and rose-tinted 
 the growth the finer will be the color of the wine. 
 A sherry or brandy cask is the best, but a lager beer 
 cask sweetened is not to be despised. Bruise the 
 stocks with a wooden mallet on a wooden board, or 
 with a fruit crusher. One old dame at a village 
 near Chesterfield who is celebrated for her rhubarb 
 wine, and "makes for the quality," runs the rhu- 
 barb through a wringing machine at tight tension, 
 and her wine soon makes you "tight," by the way, 
 Let it stand a day or so, then strain off the juice. 
 The next operation is to sulphur the cask. Take J 
 oz. of rock sulphur, put it into a small iron tube or 
 vessel, and lower it by a wire into tne barrel ; ignite 
 it, and bung up the cask for 12 hours, but leave the 
 spile peg out, so that a little air may get in to assist 
 the process of combustion. Xext fill the barrel with 
 the juice, reserving a gallon or so to fill up the bar- 
 rel and replace what is lost in the overworkings of 
 the fermentation. When the fermentation has sub- 
 sided, add two pounds of refined lump sugar to each 
 gallon of juice, leave the bung out for two or three 
 days, and if no further fermentation appears, bung 
 it up. The wine should be kept in a cool cellar, and 
 in three months it will be ready for use or bottling. 
 A man in New Jersey has for years made a specialty 
 of rhubarb wine and makes a delightful and whole- 
 some beverage, for which he gets on an average a 
 dollar a gallon by the barrel, allowing the city pur- 
 chasers to do the bottling and fancy labeling. GLACE 
 EAU DE RHUBARBE Rhubarb water ice. TARTE 
 DE RHUBARBE Rhubarb open pie. 
 
 RICE A southern luxury, almost a necessity, 
 and the cooking of it is carried to perfection. How 
 TO BOIL RICE The object is to have all the grains 
 separate when done. Drop the rice into plenty of 
 boiling water; as the water is going to be drained off, 
 it makes no difference if there is a large quantity. 
 After the rice has boiled up once, move the vessel to 
 the side and let it simmer until the grains are tender 
 when pinched between the fingers. Then pour into 
 
 RIC 
 
 a seive and let the water run away, put back the rice 
 with some cold water, wash it around, drain that off, 
 then set the drained rice back in the saucepan at the 
 side of the fire for the remaining moisture to steam 
 through it and make it hot again. Toss it up with a 
 fork. RICE WITH CUKRY The right way in which 
 to serve rice and curry, as a second or final entree at 
 the table is as follows: From the dish of rice passed 
 round by the waiter a helping of about 5 or 6 table- 
 spoonfuls should be taken; the curry, chosen from a 
 selection of at least three varieties, should then be 
 handed round, and about I tablespoonful ought to 
 amply suffice for the above mentioned quantity of 
 rice; chutney may then be optionally added on one 
 side of the plate from a cruet-stand conveniently 
 placed on the table, and one teaspoonf ul ought to be 
 enough. RICE CAKE Baked rice may be used as a 
 vegetable or as a dessert. In the latter case it may 
 be varied by the addition of sweet and bitter almonds 
 pounded, candied cherries, ginger or citron, pre- 
 served cherries and raisins. RISOTTO A L'ITALI- 
 ENNE Plainly boiled rice in a saucepan with a lump 
 of butter, as much tomato sauce as the rice will take 
 up, and plenty of grated cheese; stirred over fire or 
 baked. (See Italian Cookery.) RICE PUDDING 
 One small cup raw rice, same of sugar, i qt. milk; 
 bake in a dish 2 or 3 hours without stirring it. 
 SOUTHERN RICE-PUDDING One cup raw rice, i qt. 
 milk, i cup sugar, 2 tablespoons butter, 5 eggs, fla- 
 voring; rice, milk and sugar boiled together, other 
 ingredients mixed in; baked. IMPERIAL RICE PUD- 
 DIXG Cold; ornamental; a mould coated with jelly 
 and lined ornamentally with candied fruits, sliced, 
 by sticking them on the jelly; boiled rice, whipped 
 cream, sugar, varilla, and gelatine made up like 
 Bavarian cream and filled into the mould; filling is 
 pure white. Riz AUX PRAISES Paris specialty. 
 Boiled rice in whole grains covered with sugar- 
 syrup flavored with orange peel. When completely 
 cold, serve it on a dish in alternate layers of rice and 
 fresh strawberries (uncooked). Garnish the dish by 
 surrounding the base of the pudding with some of 
 the finest strawberries. RICE CROQUETTES Boiled 
 rice with butter, sugar and volks made into pear- 
 shapes or rolls, breaded, fried; served with sauce or 
 jelly. RICE WITH FRUITS See Apples, Apricots, 
 Peaches. RICE CASSOLETTES- See Cassolettes. RICE 
 APPI.E-DUMPLI.NOS See Apples. RICE WAFFLES- 
 One cup cold boiled rice, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoons melted 
 lard, i pt. milk, i teaspoon salt, i teaspoon baking- 
 powder, flour to make a thin batter. RICE-BATTER 
 CAKES Same as above. RICE MUFFINS, OR GEMS- 
 Cold cooked rice mixed with flour and milk, etc. ; 
 baked in gem pans. RICE IN BREAD Rice is used 
 as an adulterant to make bread carry much water. 
 It is said that the addition of 4 Ibs. rice, boiled with 
 all the water it will take up, mixed in the dough will 
 make 25 Ibs. more bread out of a barrel of flour. 
 
 RICE FLOUR Ground rice makes white and 
 delicate pastries. RICE-FLOUR CHEESECAKES- One- 
 half pound ground rice, J^ pt. milk; boiled together
 
 420 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 RIC 
 
 like paste; J Ib. each sugar and butter, 5 eggs, fla- 
 vor, mixed with the rice-paste; baked in patty-pans 
 lined with paste. GROUND RICE BUNS One-half 
 pound each butter, sugar and rice-flour, 2 eggs, i% 
 Ibs. flour, i oz. carb. ammonia, J pt. milk; made up 
 like pound-cake, cut off in rounds, dipped in sugar, 
 baked. GROUND RICE CAKE Four eggs, J Ib. 
 flour, ^ Ib. pounded loaf-sugar, % Ib. butter, teacup 
 of ground rice, teaspoonful baking-powder. Beat 
 the eggs, flour and sugar well for a quarter of an 
 hour, adding the rice-powder and butter last, of all. 
 Bake three quarters of an hour in a hot oven. 
 
 RICHELIEU GARNISH-Quenelles of chicken, 
 cockscombs and slices of fat livers in brown onion 
 sauce. Dishes finished with this are a la Richelieu. 
 
 RILLETTES DE TOURS Cold cakes of meat i 
 of the head-cheese order. At the Paris ham fairs 
 the rillette makers build up fancy pyramids of small 
 rillettes and decorate them. The cakes are made as 
 follows: 4 Ibs. of lean meat is added to 6 Ibs. of ba- , 
 con or caul, the whole being chopped fine and sea- 
 soned with salt, spices, and bay-leaves. The mix- 
 ture is then cooked in a vessel, care being taken to 
 stir it until it is finished, to prevent pieces attaching 
 to the bottom of the saucepan. The fat is skimmed 
 off, the meat chopped, put into earthenware dishes, 
 the liquor poured over. Eaten cold. 
 
 RISSOLES Rissole and croquette both signify 
 about the same thing, something crisp. The dif- 
 ference usually observed is to make the rissole with 
 a coat of flour paste, the croquette with a coat of 
 egg and bread-crumbs or cracker meal. The dis- 
 tinctions are not always observed, however. A ris- 
 sole is a portion of minced meat combination rolled 
 up in a thin coat of pie-paste and fried in a kettle 
 of hot lard. RISSOLES A LA Roi Minced olives and 
 truffles and hard-boiled yolks and whites; spoonfuls 
 inclosed in turnovers of pie-paste; egged, breaded, 
 fried. Garnished with lemons and cress. 
 RISSOLETTES Small or fancy-shaped rissoles. 
 RIS (Fr.) Sweetbread. Ris DE VEAU Calfs' 
 sweetbread. Ris D'AGNEAU Lambs' sweetbread. 
 RIZ (Fr.) Rice. 
 
 RIZZERED HADDIE See Scottish Cookery. 
 ROACHES The most successful means of des- 
 troying or banishing roaches from a building seem 
 to be: (/)-Borax thrown around plentifully where 
 they run, which is near where water is to be found, 
 for roaches drink greedily. (See Borax). But it is 
 an indispensable condition that borax -be freshly 
 powdered and very fine. The roaches do not eat it 
 but it kills them by adhering to their feet and they 
 die in the efforts to get rid of it. (a)-Phosphorus 
 paste (ju/iich see) is the only effectual means which 
 others have found. (j)-Red lead and flour in equal 
 quantities mixed together. The paste to be spread 
 on pieces of paper and distributed about the places 
 infested. (^)-Cucutnber peel thrown around their 
 haunts. They eat it for the sake of the water it 
 
 ROL 
 
 contains and it kills, (j)- Boiling water thrown per- 
 severingly into the cracks and crevices where they 
 harbor. Insect powder does not kill, onlv stupefies 
 the insects for a few hours and they survive and 
 continue business. The borax and phosphorus paste 
 and the hot water seem to have the highest testi- 
 mony as to their success in exterminating. 
 
 ROBIXS Cooked with a slice of bacon over the 
 breast, served on toast in the usual way of all small 
 birds. 
 
 ROCKY MOUNTAIN OYSTERS Lambs' 
 fries. 
 
 ROCK BUNS Rough rocky looking cakes made 
 of y Ib. each butter, sugar and currants, 3 eggs, 3 
 Ibs. flour, ^ pt. milk, J^ oz. carb. ammonia dissolved 
 in milk. Makes stiff dough, pieces pulled off rough 
 with a fork baked on greased pans. ROCK CAKE 
 % Ib. each butter, sugar and currants, 3 eggs, 2 Ib. 
 flour, baked in a mould. 
 
 ROCK SUGAR This is the candy rock work 
 used to build up ornamental pieces of confectionery 
 and to sell as sponge candy; it can be made of all 
 colors and flavors: Boil a pint of clarified sugar in 
 a copper earthenware pan to the degree of crackled, 
 ( See Sugar Boiling) ; use no acid in the boiling of 
 this; remove it from the fire, and well mix into it a 
 tablespoonful of icing, by stirring it in briskly with 
 vour skimmer. As soon as the sugar and icing is well 
 mixed, and rises up like froth, put it into a papered 
 sieve, or into an oiled tin or mould, and when quite 
 cold, break it in pieces. If you have not any icing 
 ready made, mix some sifted loaf sugar with the 
 white of an egg, until it is quite thick, put in a table- 
 spoonful, and it will answer the purpose of icing. 
 If you want it colored, mix the coloring in with the 
 icing. " And now we come to the finest piece in the 
 group, described in the catalogue as ' Stronghold 
 Caske, in piped sugar ornamental work, on a rock 
 made of (souffle) sugar." Souffl6 sugar or as it was 
 called in our young days, ' Queen's bread,' always 
 makes a good bed for an ornamental piece of this 
 kind, and in this case greatly enhanced the beauty 
 of the castle above." (See Hints on Sugar.) 
 
 ROES OF FISH Shad roes bring the highest 
 prices, mullet and carp roes are as good except in 
 the one particular of color, they are not so white 
 when cooked. SHAD ROES FRIED Seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, rolled in flour, then egged and 
 breaded, fried in little fat in frying pan to prevent 
 curling; tomato sauce. SHAD ROES A LA MAITRE 
 D'HOTEL Steeped in oil with onion, seasoned, 
 broiled, served with maitre d" 1 hotel butter. ROES 
 AUX FINES HERBES Shad or other roes in a bak- 
 ing pan with chopped mushrooms, onion and parsley, 
 and salt and pepper strewed under and over, broth 
 and wine, simmered together in slow oven, sauce 
 made in the pan. (See Laitances.) 
 
 ROGXOXS (Fr.) Kidneys. 
 
 ROLY-POLY PUDDINGS Favorite kind,
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 421 
 
 ROM 
 
 boiled or steamed; made by rolling out a sheet of 
 paste (either short paste, biscuit dough, or a special 
 flaky sort made by the puff- paste method, but less i 
 rich), covering with a layer of chopped apples or 
 any fruit or mixture, rolling up in a cloth and steam- 
 ing an hour or two. Every sort of fruit can be used, 
 and mixtures of many kinds, from molasses thick- 
 ened with flour to fine lemon mince meat. 
 
 ROMAN PIE Italian lunch dish. Boil a good- 
 sized rabbit; cut all the meat off as thin as possible 
 and pound it. Add 2 oz. of grated cheese, 2 oz. of 
 macaroni stewed till quite tender, and a little onion 
 chopped fine; pepper, salt and allspice; line a mould 
 with good paste and put in above well mixed ; bake 
 for an hour, turn out, and serve cold. Truffles and 
 grated ham or tongue improve the pie. 
 
 ROMAN PUNCH Punch of rum and lemons 
 with additions; soft-frozen likegraitito. SUPERIOR 
 ROMAN PUNCH Mix and freeze 2 qts. of lemon wa- 
 ter ice; a few minutes before serving, work in with 
 the spatula 2 glasses of rum, 2 of brandy, 2 of 
 sherry, % bottle of champagne, and 5 whites of me- 
 ringue; serve in glasses. 
 
 ROOK A species of crow; the young are eaten, 
 generally in the form of rook pie. 
 
 ROQUEFORT CHEESE Wen-known im- 
 ported cheese of a dry and solid sort and high flavor. 
 It is ranked among the choice comestibles for high- 
 priced tables. Can be bought at the fancy grocery 
 stores at about double the price of American cheese ; 
 size about 6 or S Ibs. This cheese is made of sheeps' 
 milk. " Roquefort, in Aveyron, France, has been 
 celebrated for generations on account of its caves 
 ana cheeses; these two items are inseparable, for 
 without the caves the cheeses would be nowhere, 
 and rice -versa. All round the country is rich in de- 
 lightful pasture lands and hilly grounds, affording 
 splendid fodder for the sheep, which, reared in hun- 
 dreds of thousands, develop udders of exceptional 
 size, and yield an appreciable quantity of milk. The 
 ewes' milk is converted into fine cream cheeses, and 
 these are disposed in alternate layers with a sprink- 
 ling of powder, made from a special kind of brown 
 bread, which has been subjected to the attacks of a 
 particular kind of mould, peculiar to Roquefort. 
 The farmers who make these 'loaves,' as they are 
 now called, dispose of them to the celebrated nta- 
 turers in the town, the Societ6 des Caves Reunies. 
 The cheeses on reaching the caves are brushed, and 
 then pierced through their substance with numerous 
 minute holes, by means of elaborate machinery. 
 They are then set aside in the caves to ripen, and it 
 is an undeniable fact that nowhere else in the world 
 will the peculiar fungus grow and impart such a 
 toothsome flavor to the cheese as in these caves." 
 
 ROSSINI (a la) The composer Rossini was a 
 noted gourmet and particularly fond of truffles; the 
 few dishes occasionally met with a la Rossini, are 
 distinguished by having a plentiful truffle garnish. 
 His favorite, dish of macaroni with truffles it was said 
 
 RUF 
 
 ought to h^ve been called truffles with a little maca- 
 roni; his favorite salad was sliced truffles with 
 dressing. 
 
 ROUGET (Fr.> Red mullet. (See Mullet.) 
 
 ROUELLE DE BCEUF (Fr.) Round of beef. 
 
 ROULADES Steaks rolled up with seasonings 
 and strips of fat bacon inside, tied, fried outside, 
 broth added, stewed an hour or two, gravy made in 
 same saucepan. Served with various garnishes. 
 
 ROUND OF BEEF-"A round of boiled beef pre- 
 sents a tempting appearance when garnished a la 
 foret de Senart, Tie up some large branches of 
 parsley into bunches, and fry ; place these as close 
 as possible round the joint of beef, so as to give the 
 appearance of a forest. 
 
 ROUX Butter-and-flour thickening for gravies 
 and soups. It is the beginning of several sauces. 
 Butter and flour in about equal measure, but not 
 very particular proportions, are stirred in a small 
 saucepan over the fire together. WHITE Roux 
 The above when it bubbles and has cooked two or 
 three minutes is done, ready to have water added to 
 it to make sauce or thicken soups, fricassees, etc. 
 BROWN Roux The same allowed to brown in the 
 pan or in the oven, used for brown sauces and stews. 
 
 ROWAN JELLY Rowan jelly, made from the 
 berries of the mountain-ash, is by many preferred to 
 red -currant jelly, as an accompaniment to roast mut- 
 ton, game, etc. 
 
 ROYAL CUSTARDS FOR SOUPS These 
 have come to be so called from their being the one 
 showy adjunct to "Consomme Royale." They are 
 pieces cut in some regular shape out of a cake of 
 cooked egg that is like an omelet steamed instead of 
 fried; made by well mixing eggs with a little broth 
 or milk, pouring it into a buttered pan and steaming 
 or setting in boiling water. PRECAUTIONS The 
 custard is wanted to be solid and firm, not porous 
 and crumbly, therefore the mixture must not be 
 beaten light and must not be cooked with furious 
 boiling; it should be set gradually at gentle heat. 
 When cooked and cold it is turned out of the pan and 
 cut in diamonds or cubes, or lozenges as wanted. 
 VARIETIES OF CUSTARDS (i) They are made of 
 eggs with a little seasoned broth mixed in. (2) 
 With eggs and cream. (3) With eggs and fish 
 broth. (4) With egg-yolks and broth, etc. (5) 
 With egg-whites and broth, etc., making two 
 colors and kinds. (6) With eggs or yolks mixed 
 with pounded chicken meat. (7) With eggs or 
 yolks mixed with chopped mushrooms, onions and 
 parsley. (8) Green with eggs and pure of spinach. 
 (9) Pink with eggs and red lobster or crayfish but- 
 ter, ('o) They are cooked in small ornamental 
 thimble moulds. 
 ROYANS Selected sardines; a superior sort. 
 
 RUFFS AND REEVES There are some small 
 birds called ruffs and reeves, found in the fenny 
 counties of England, and which doubtless, in some
 
 422 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 RUS 
 
 variety or other, are inhabitants of the United 
 States. The ruff is the male, the reeve the female; 
 they are so named from the ruffled appearance of the 
 feathers of the neck. The most delicate and highly 
 valued of all small water fowl, they are made so by 
 the treatment to which they are subjected. They 
 are taken alive and fattened for two weeks on boiled 
 wheat, or boiled bread and milk mixed with hemp 
 seed. The secret of thus fattening 1 ruffs and reeves 
 was discovered by the Yorkshire monks in the 
 Middle Ages; but birds so treated are still extrava- 
 gantly dear, and considered superlative luxuries. 
 
 RUSKS (i) Slices of sweet loaf bread toasted 
 dry in the oven. (2) Slices of cake such as sponge 
 cake with caraway seed, dried and toasted in the 
 oven. These were eaten as sweet crackers now are 
 for lunches and with wine. (3) American and Ger- 
 man bakers make sweetened rolls which are sold by 
 the name of rusks, fresh baked. (4) Several grades 
 of buns, yellow and rich, known by several names 
 across the water, are made in this country under the 
 one common name of rusks; eaten warm. 
 
 RUSSIAN' COOKERY The Russians are great 
 soup eaters. Amongst their most favorite potages 
 may be mentioned Vesiga soup and cucumber soup. 
 RUSSIAN VESIOA SOUP The Vesiga is a gelatinous 
 substance that envelopes the backbone of the stur- 
 geon. It is sold in a dry state, and bears some re- 
 semblance to Russian isinglass. Before using, it 
 should be soaked several hours in water, and then 
 boiled in some light broth until it becomes quite 
 tender. It is then cut in pieces about one inch long, 
 and served in a clear consomme with or without the 
 addition of vegetables cut in fancy shapes. The 
 Vesiga soup is considered in Russia as very nutri- 
 tious and wholesome. RUSSIAN ROSSOLNICK Cu- 
 cumber soup prepared with salted preserved cucum- 
 bers (a dainty dish in Russia). It is made as fol- 
 lows: Cut four or five salted cucumbers into squares 
 or 1 lozenges of uniform size, and boil them in water 
 until done. Boil, likewise, some parsley root and 
 celerv cut in pieces one inch long. Prepare a chicken 
 broth with two young chickens, and when ready to 
 serve, put the cucumbers, the parsley root, the cele- 
 ry and the cut up chicken into the soup-tureen, and 
 pour over the whole the chicken broth, which has 
 been previously thickened with six yolks of eggs 
 mixed with cream RUSSIAN CAVIARE A national 
 relish deservedly popular in Europe is caviare, 
 which is simply the roe of the sturgeon. It is served 
 generally with dried toast, and handed after dinner 
 with the cheese. BEAR'S PAWS ALA RUSSE An- 
 other national dish considered as a great delicacy 
 in St Petersburg is bears' paws. They are first 
 skinned, washed, and put into a marinade for sev- 
 eral days. Then the}- are cooked in a mirepoix, and 
 when done put away to get cold. When wanted to 
 serve, the paw is cut into four pieces lengthways; 
 egged, breadcrumbed and broiled. A sharp sauce, 
 such as poivrade, piquante, or Robert sauce is 
 
 SAC 
 
 served with it. RUSSIAN APPETIZERS There 
 is just at the present time a craze among the Par- 
 isians of the haut ton for things Russian which 
 i extends to the dishes at table. At not a few good 
 houses the sideboards are now garnished with the 
 Ziikitska. which always forms the preface to a Rus- 
 sian dinner. The Zukuska consists as a rule of ca- 
 viare, herring, anchovies, smoked goose, smoked 
 sausage and cheese. These delicacies are served on 
 I little enameled plates. The guests are supposed to 
 go to the sideboard and help themselves at pleasure, 
 drinking a little glass of bitters or vodka, English 
 gin, or even kummel, to stimulate their appetite. 
 When this has been sufficiently provoked, the com 
 pany take their seats at the table, where good Rus- 
 sophiles serve a soup prepared from the sterlet, a 
 fish caught in the Volga. There is another soup, 
 which is said to be a great favorite with the Czar 
 and his family. This is the savory "shtshi," the 
 quintessence of all national soups, and which ac- 
 cording to a Frenchman lately come from St. Pe 
 tersburg is prepared thuswise: Take a large and 
 juicy piece of mutton, boil it down with juicy pieces 
 of beef, and an unlimited number of onions, garlic, 
 herbs, beets and spices; and serve the same, cut in 
 small cubes. In Poland, a similar mixtum composi- 
 lum is called "borshtsh," on which the Russian 
 looks down with sovereign contempt. Another 
 soup, which is frequently put upon the Imperial 
 table, is called ' okroska," a sort of mush or cold de- 
 coction of pears, apples, plums and oat grits, with an 
 admixture of small pieces of meat, herring and cu- 
 cumbers floating therein. The Czar greatly affects 
 chicken cutlets a la Poskarki, i.e. a chicken chopped 
 very fine and roasted with slices of bread and eggs, 
 served up in the shape of a cutlet; also pork boiled 
 in milk, eaten with a highly spiced gravy. Other 
 favorite dishes of the autocrat are fish prepared in an 
 infinite variety of ways, and a rich and spicy gravy 
 called a la Samoyede (the latter being one of the 
 great secrets of the Imperial kitchen), cucumbers in 
 vinegar, and capons. All these dishes are now at- 
 tempted in Paris. (See Coulibiac, Russian Salad, 
 soufs.) 
 
 S. 
 
 SABA YON OR SAMBAONE A custard con- 
 taining wine, whipped; a foaming pudding sauce. 
 
 SABATIER KNIVES A special and favorite 
 shape of cooks' knives, the name -s that of the 
 original Paris manufacturer. 
 
 SACCHARINE The new sweetening substance 
 obtained, like the aniline elves, from coal-tar, and 
 said to possess 300 times the sweeting power of 
 sugar. It is a white powder, and although in the 
 crude state insoluble in water, is supplied in a solu- 
 ble form. A grain or so is sufficient to sweeten a 
 cup of tea or coffee, and as saccharine passes through 
 the system unchanged, it would be of special value 
 to diabetic patients and others to whom sugaris ab- 
 solutely harmful. The new sweetener possesses an-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 423 
 
 SAC 
 
 tiseptic properties, and is a powerful anti-ferment, 
 and hence should be useful as a sugar substitute to 
 jam-boilers and fruit -preservers. Weare not aware 
 that it has been experimented with in this direction, 
 for truth to say, "saccharine" is as yet only an in- 
 teresting laboratory product rather than a commer- 
 cial article. 
 
 SACCHAROMETER A graduated glass tube 
 for testing boiling sugar. (See Sugar.) 
 
 S AFFRON-The petals of a flowering plant dried. 
 There are two kinds which answer the same pur- 
 poses of giving the color of eggs to cake and various 
 culinary preparations. Can be purchased put in tin 
 boxes at the drug stores. It has been very exten- 
 sively employed both in medicine and cookery in 
 ancient t'ines and even more recently through an 
 exaggerated estimate of its virtues but its use has 
 very nearly died out. The method of usiig is to 
 make tea of a pinch of the saffron, which is then 
 added to the dough for buns or cake, or the rish stew 
 or dish of rice, in which ways it is still regularly 
 used in Creole and in Italian and Spanish cookery. 
 
 SAGE LEAVES Leaves of a common garden 
 plant; easily grown and perennial. Can be bought 
 in a dried and pressed state in pachages. Best flavor- 
 ing for pork, sausages, goose and tame duck. 
 
 SAGE CHEESE A cheese of the customary 
 American York State or Western Reserve sort is 
 sometimes to be met with streaked and marbled all 
 through with sage leaves which have been pounded 
 to a pulp and added to the curd of which the cheese 
 is made. The peculiar flavor of this sage cheese is 
 much admired generally, although the distrust with 
 which Americans look upon "mouldy" cheese brings 
 this under the suspicion of those who do not know 
 its nature and makes it unsuitable for hotel tables. 
 
 SAGO Made from the pith of a palm tree which 
 grows in the East Indies. Each tree will yield from 
 800 to 1,000 pounds of sago. It is nearly pure starch. 
 There are imitation sagos in the market made of 
 some cheaper sort of starch; the difference becomes 
 apparent in cooking as the imitations dissolve and 
 the form of the grain disappears; the puddings 
 then become thin and watery. Is cooked in all the 
 same ways as tapioca, in most of the same ways as 
 rice and in soups. 
 
 SAIBLING Name often met with in Continen- 
 tal menus. " The best and most delicate fish to be 
 had in Vienna are the different species of trout, one 
 of which I have never seen elsewhere, though it 
 certainly surpasses in flavor the ordinary kind. It 
 goes in this country by the name of saiblinff " 
 
 SALADS, AMERICAN The three American 
 salads are raw tomatoes, lettuce, and chicken salad. 
 There are other favorites and nearly all varieties are 
 eaten when offered but the distinction in regard to 
 these is that they are wanted, missed and called for 
 if not furnished, and missed by all. Celery can 
 hardly be classed as a salad as it is always eaten 
 
 SAL 
 
 plain with salt, it comes next in the list of universal 
 favorites, however, and then may be instanced the 
 potato salad of thinly sliced potato, with parsley, 
 oil, vinegar, onion juice, pepper and salt. After 
 these the lobster salad, and, a degree less com- 
 mon and more expensive, the shrimp salad, and 
 then for lunch or supper another potato salad of 
 sliced potatos in a yellow creamy dressing made of 
 cooked yolks, butter, raw yolks, cream and vinegar, 
 parsley, pepper, mustard, salt; the butter and cream 
 being the substitute for oil. The taste for oil is 
 soon acquired but as salad oil is not an article of 
 general household consumption throughout the 
 country it is anything but acceptable to the people 
 who first try the stronger salads at the hotels. Still 
 the practiced diner in general prides himself upon 
 his aptitude at mixing his salad upon his own plate, 
 making the dressing from the contents of the cruet- 
 stands and usually the hard-boiled egg which he 
 finds upon the top of the dish of lettuce; sometimes 
 he must have a raw egg and with oil, mus'ard, 
 vinegar and seasonings, compounds his own mayon- 
 naise. However, this more elaborate dressing can 
 generally be obtained from the chefs department 
 and in most hotels there is at least one salad each 
 day dressed with mayonnaise and decorated before 
 it is served. SAID ABOUT SALADS "In strolling 
 through the central markets of Paris recently we 
 were struck with the variety of salad ing displayed 
 on the vegetable stalls. There is an old French 
 book describing the 300 salads of Father Matthew, 
 and it is said, and with truth, that a Frenchman 
 may have a different salad -for every day of the year. 
 The proper moment for serving and eating green 
 salads is with roast meat, and more particularly with 
 the game or poultry of the second course. There are 
 people who, without being professed vegetarians, 
 would rather eat a salad without meat than meal: 
 without asalad." A NATION DESTITUTE OF SALAD 
 BowL6-"It is a matter of hard fact that a salad-bowl 
 is a thing unknown to 999 out of 1,000 eating-houses 
 in England. In private houses and in clubs of course 
 it is to be found, because English gentlemen of the 
 class who belong to clubs know that a salad to be 
 enjoyed must be mixed, and that it cannot be pro- 
 perly mixed without a good-sized bowl. But let us 
 go into one of Spiers and Pond's establishments and 
 in sing! ing them out I pay them a compliment. They 
 are at the head of their profession, they have de- 
 served well of the public, and if they fail in any point 
 we may be sure that the failure belongs not to them 
 individually, but to the English system. I have not 
 been to all their establishments, but in those I have 
 visited this is what I find. They keep an immense 
 bowl on the buffet, crammed with a confusion of 
 salad -herbs soaking in water. You ask for a salad. 
 The waiter brings you a wet lettuce cut in halves 
 upon a flat plate, and he puts down beside it an an- 
 nulated bottle, full of the abominable compound 
 known as salad -mixture. You politely hint to the 
 waiter, first of all, that you prefer not to touch his
 
 424 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SAL 
 
 prepared mixture. He takes it away, wounded in 
 his feelings, and assumes that you are going to eat 
 the lettuce \yith salt. You next make a demand for 
 oil and vinegar, and try to explain that a salad to be 
 properly mixed must, according to the saying, he 
 mixed by a madman ; it cannot, therefore, be mixed 
 on a flat plate. The waiter then brings a soup-plate; 
 if you are not satisfied with that, he brings a vege- 
 table-dish, then perhaps a slop-basin; and if you are 
 still discontended, he tries you last of all with a 
 soup-tureen. As for a salad-bowl which one can 
 get at once in the paltriest French restaurant it is 
 not, as a rule, to be found in the splendidly fur- 
 nished establishments of Spiers and Pond. This 
 simply means that a salad properly prepared does 
 not belong to the English system of the table, and 
 does not enter into the calculations of those who 
 cater for it in public. I sometimes at English inns 
 manage to get a salad-bowl by asking for a punch- 
 bowl. Mine host is nearly always prepared to make 
 punch, though he does not know what a salad is." 
 THE TRUE LETTUCE SALAD "Sir Henry Thomp- 
 son, in his little work, gives a short and clear de- 
 scription how to make this: The materials must be 
 secured fresh, are not to be too numerous and diverse, 
 must be well cleansed and washed without handling, 
 and all water removed as far as possible. It should 
 be made immediately before the meal, and be kept 
 cool until wanted. Very few servants can be trusted 
 to execute the simple details involved in cross-cut- 
 ting the lettuce endive or what not but two or three 
 times in a roomy salad-bowl; in placing one salt- 
 spoonful of salt, and halfHhat quantity of pepper in 
 a tablespoon, which is to be filled three times con- 
 secutively with the best fresh olive-oil, stirring each 
 briskly until the condiments have been thoroughly 
 mixed, and at the same time distributed over the 
 salad. This is next to be tossed well, but lightly, 
 until every portion glistens, scattering meantime a 
 little finely-chopped fresh tarragon and chervil; with 
 a few atoms of chives over the whole. Lastly, but 
 only immediately before serving, one small table- 
 spoonful of mild French or better still Italian wine- 
 vinegar is to be sprinkled over all, followed by an- 
 other tossing of the salad." SUMMER SALADS 
 (/) Dissolve half a teaspoonful of white or brown 
 sugar in a tablespoonful of plain vinegar; add three 
 drops of tarragon vinegar, and cayenne and salt to 
 taste. Break up a lettuce or endive wiped very dry, 
 and add about half teaspoonful of chopped chives; 
 pour over the lettuce a tablespoonful of oil, and well 
 mix it about with a wooden spoon or fork; then 
 sprinkle the vinegar -mixture over and turn all well 
 about again. Garnish with slices of cucumber cut 
 thin, or raw tomatoes cut in quarters. (2) A fresh 
 lettuce washed and wiped dry, chopped tarragon orv 
 mint, a few young onions or chives, and half a cu- 
 cumber. Put into a salad-bowl two tablespoonfuls 
 of oil, a saltspoon of salt, half a teaspoonful of pep- 
 per, a dessertspoonful of castor sugar, and a dessert- 
 spoon of vinegar. Then add the chopped mint or 
 
 SAL 
 
 tarragon and the onions; lastly, the lettuce broken 
 up into small pieces, and stir all together, turning 
 the lettuce over well. Garnish with slices of cu- 
 cumber, (j) One raw egg well beaten up, a table- 
 spoonful of oil, a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, 
 and a dessertspoonful of plain vinegar. Mix well 
 together; break up a lettuce, pour the mixtuie over 
 it, and turn it about thoroughly. (4) Two table- 
 spoonfuls of salad oil; break three eggs, drop them 
 into the oil, well beat them up add a teaspoonful of 
 tarragon vinegar and ^i dessertspoonful of cream; 
 mix and pour over the lettuce. This mixture will 
 keep for several weeks if bottled and tightly corked 
 U P- (5) Cut up a cucumber into very thin shccs. 
 drain off all the water that comes from it by pressing 
 the cut slices between two plates; mix a tablespoon- 
 ful of oil with a tablespoonful of vinegar, add pep- 
 per and salt, and pour over the sliced cucumber. 
 (0) Take three or four fine raw tomatoes, cut them 
 up into quarters or halves; make a dressing of a ta- 
 blespoonful of oil, another of vinegar, a teaspoonful 
 of tarragon vinegar, and a dessertspoonful of sugar; 
 pour it over the tomatoes; garnish with watercress. 
 All salads should be made about half an hour or a 
 quarter of an hour before they are to be eaten. 
 Hard-boiled eggs cut in slices may in all cases be 
 used for garnishing. "The presentation to Lord 
 Tennyson by Messrs. Spiers and Pond, of a ' pint 
 pot neatly graven,' from the now demolished Cock 
 Tavern, has evoked a fresh crop of gossip anent 
 that Fleet Street rendezvous. Mr. Sala has, of 
 course, joined in, and this is his amusing mem.: 'I 
 recollect the plump head-waiter at the Cock Ten- 
 nyson's plump head-waiter; or, at least, his twin 
 brother, or his only son, who was the very image of 
 his father. With Mr. H. Sutherland Edwards I went 
 one day, ever so many years ago, to "chop" at the 
 Cock. 'Twas July, and the weather would have 
 suited a salamander. Mr. Edwards fancied a nice 
 cool salad with his cutlet he was an adept at salad 
 mixing and asked the waiter for a cold hard-boiled 
 egg. "A hegg!" ejaculated the obese servitor, "a 
 hegg! Hif Prince Halbert was to come to the Cock, 
 he couldn't have a hegg!" The plump Conservatism 
 of the Cock prescribed oil and vinegar as the sole 
 sauce for salad; hard-boiled eggs were scouted and 
 banished as things only fit for foreigners and Radi- 
 cals.' " NEST EGGS "This specialty, which \ve 
 owe to American inventiveness, would certainly be 
 attractive amongst cold dishes for the hot weather. 
 Its preparation is as follows: Take a quantity of 
 fresh spring onions, or, if preferred, water-cresses, 
 or mustard and cress, or, indeed, all three, using the 
 onions sparingly if objected to, and construct out of 
 this greenery, in a large deep circular plate or howl, 
 the nearest semblance of a bird's nest which the 
 cook's ingenuity can arrange. Then place in its 
 midst some hard-boiled eggs, whole, but shelled of 
 course, alternately with some pats or rolls of cream- 
 cheese of the same size and shape as the eggs. 
 Milk-cheese may be used, and is sometimes pre-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 425 
 
 SAL 
 
 ferred, whilst it is often easier of manipulation into 
 the proper form than that consisting entirely of 
 creai.i. In serving this dish, a pat of cream-cheese 
 and an egg, together with a due proportion of salad, 
 should be given to each person, leaving everyone to 
 cut up, dress, and season with oil, vinegar, pepper, 
 and salt, etc., according to taste." BETTER MATE- 
 RIAL "I am not sorry to find that the finely-shred 
 salad-mixture, in vogue when Louis Napoleon III 
 first gave his feasts at the Louvre, are once more the 
 rage; fine thread-like shaves of lettuce, cucumber, 
 and other salad condiments, whilst tender grape - 
 leaves and tendrils from the winter hot-house forc- 
 ing for spring-fruits, give a piquancy to the dish." 
 MIXING SALADS There is an Italian proverb on 
 salad-making which tells us there must be plenty of 
 oil and salt, but very little vinegar. The same rule 
 is strictly followed in France, and it is a part of 
 every Frenchwoman's education to know how to 
 add these ingredients in their exact proportions. 
 This is so delicate a matter, that it is not usually en- 
 trusted to servants in middle-class families. The 
 undressed salad is brought upon the table, and the 
 mistress of the house adds what she thinks is 
 necessary and mixes the whole. True connois- 
 seurs of the vegetable luxury wipe the separated 
 leaves of the lettuce one by one with religious 
 care. They break the foliage for the salad-bowl, 
 never cutting it, and they debate and commingle 
 the component parts of the dressing with anx- 
 ietv and scrupulous care. A good salad can be 
 concocted, of course, out of fifty ingredients, 
 from nettle-tops and dandelion leaves through cold 
 potato and beetroot to the lettuce and the endive, 
 which are salad plants par excellence. It is in dress- 
 ing, however, that genius is most exhibited. THE 
 SALAD OF THE ANCIENTS Our ancestors served 
 salads with roasted meat, roasted poultry, etc. They 
 had a great many which are now no longer in 
 vogue. They ate leeks, cooked in wood-ashes, and 
 seasoned with salt and honey; borage, mint and 
 parsley, with salt and oil; lettuce, fennel, mint, 
 chervil, parsley and elder-flowers mixed together. 
 They also classed among their salads an agglomera- 
 tion of feet, heads, cocks' combs, and fowls' livers, 
 cooked and seasoned with parsley, mint, vinegar, 
 pepper and cinnamon. Nettles and the twigs of 
 rosemary formed delicious salads for our forefathers ; 
 and to these they sometimes added pickled gherkins. 
 THE SALADEJAPOXAISE The following is the re- 
 cipe ror the famous Japanese Salad, from Alexander 
 Dumas, " Francillon." Annette: You must boil 
 potatoes in a little stock, cut them in slices as if for 
 an ordinary salad, and while they are still warm, 
 season with salt, pepper, very good olive oil, with 
 the flavor of the fruit in it, and vinegar. Henri: 
 Tarragon? Annette: Orleans is better, but this is 
 of no great importance; the principal thing is half 
 a glass of white wine, Chateau Yquem if possible. 
 Plenty of small herbs cut very finely. Boil at the 
 same time some very large mussels with a stick of 
 
 SAL 
 
 celery, drain them well, and add to the potatoes you 
 have already seasoned. Turn all over very lightly 
 Tlierese: Fewer mussels than potatoes ? Annette: 
 Yes, a third less. One must discover the mussels by 
 degrees; they| must neither be foreseen, nor must 
 they assert themselves. When the salad is finished 
 and lightly mixed, cover it with rounds of truffles 
 which have been cooked in champagne. Do all this 
 two hours before dinner, that the salad may be quite 
 cold when served. Henri : Can one keep it in ice? 
 A nnette : Xo, no, no. It must not be treated with any 
 violence; it is very delicate, and all the aromas must 
 be allowed to blend by slow degrees. "This salad 
 is now being offered at most Parisian restaurants 
 to such an extent, indeed, that we have had rather 
 too much of it. Your correspondent, whose di- 
 gestion, like that of the tramp who requested the 
 farmer's wife not to fry his steak, is not that of an 
 ostrich, has had " Salade Japonaise" served him 
 since last writing, no less than fifteen times, and is 
 in consequence a melancholy man. The Grand 
 Hotel makes of this salad a specialty at dejeuner, 
 each Thursday morning an innovation which it 
 describes as an original and very Parisian idea." 
 IMPROVED JAPONAISE Dumas's recipe for the 
 Japonaise salad has been experimented with by the 
 Parisian cooks, and as now prepared differs vastly 
 from the famous exposition in Francillon. Chef 
 Gabriel Berquier, interviewed the other day, gives 
 the following recipe as the perfection of Salade 
 jfafonaixe and the recipe is well worthy of preser- 
 vation: Boil potatoes in bouillon, mince them up 
 when cold, add shelled shrimps, truffles and tongue 
 cut into the size of halfpence; mix the whole with 
 superior white wine, allow it to macerate for an 
 hour; add to this mixture green sauce as for salad. 
 On the other hand sprinkle minced truffles over 
 slices of fresh or preserved foie gras. Prepare a 
 jelly of meat- juice, white wine, oyster-stock, and 
 gelatine, and spread some of this jelly over each 
 slice of foie gras. Mask some mussels and some 
 oysters in well-set green sauce. To serve, take .1 
 long dish, hollow in center. Salad in center; on 
 salad slices of foie gras prepared as above; surround 
 with mussels and oysters. Sprinkle dish over with 
 slices of truffles and of tongue, and make little de- 
 corations with the rest of the meat jelly. Send up 
 to table with some green sauce in the sauce-boat." 
 SALADE DE POMMES DE TERRE AUX TRUFFES "A 
 good recipe for a potato salad, which is in many 
 wavs preferable to the famous Salade Japonaise. 
 Boil and slice the potatoes. Slice also very thin 
 some truffles boiled in white wine. Fill your salad 
 bowl with alternate layers of potatoes and truffles, 
 beginning with a layer of potatoes and finishing 
 with truffles, garnishing this last layer with a row 
 of small, boiled onions, fillets of anchovy and stuffed 
 or plain olives. Season with salt pepper, oil, and 
 vinegar, and, after allowing the salad to become 
 impregnated with the seasoning, serve. This salad 
 will suit those who cannot stomach the mixture of
 
 426 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SAL 
 
 mussels and truffles prescribed in Dumas's recipe. 
 LA SALADE DU PRINCE DE GALLES To which the 
 Heir Apparent is said to be extremely partial is 
 stated to be composed of sardines boned and cut in 
 small pieces, lettuce, watercress, and chervil with 
 minced capers; the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs 
 pounded into flour are added, with salt, pepper, 
 cayenne, and mustard, and three tablespoonfuls of 
 lemon juice. The salad is garnished with slices of 
 lemon and pickled capsicums. PLUM'S PRIDE Is 
 a capital salad; named after its compounder, a re- 
 tired butler. Ingredients for six people: Three 
 large floury potatoes, three tomatoes, cooked, a 
 small cupful of sliced cold vegetables of any sort 
 ready, a large lettuce, or two moderately -sized, a 
 few sprigs of watercress, some slices of beetroot, a 
 very little onion of the fine shallot kind, tarragon 
 vinegar and common vinegar to taste, mustard, salt, 
 and sugar to taste, and a teaspoonful each of any 
 sauces you may have in use; oil or cream. The 
 dressing is made in the usual way, the vinegar being 
 added by slow degrees, in the proportion of one 
 tablespoonful to three of oil. The tarragon is used 
 to flavor. Rub the potatoes, while hot, through a 
 sieve, the tomatoes also; and about two inches of 
 beetroot; add the beat yolk of a raw egg with the 
 tarragon, vinegar, etc., and mix all well. As tastes 
 vary respecting the quantities of oil and vinegar, the 
 mixer must use his own discretion. Mustard can 
 be added if liked, also a chopped chili. LOBSTER 
 SALAD This is the salad par excellence at this time 
 of year. It is exceedingly fashionable and may be 
 decorated with white rings of hard-boiled eggs and 
 the coral or eggs of the lobster, whilst the fan or 
 tail of the animal and its various long antennae 
 (feelers) may all play an ornamental part in the get- 
 ting up of the dish. The lobster must, of course, be 
 boiled, and the meat of the animal, with a sufficiency 
 of green-stuff, forms the basis of the dish. Very 
 small onions and egg radishes may be used when in 
 season, as also chervil, etc. A sauce of oil, mustard, 
 cream, and a little cayenne may be served, either in 
 the dish or separately. The decoration of a salad of 
 this kind may be carried to any length which the 
 fancy dictates. An outer border may be made of 
 alternate slices of boiled potatoes and beet-rooi_ 
 which will look charming. To keep this border in 
 its position, fill the bottom of the dish with aspic 
 jelly, and allow it to set; throw in the "greenerie" 
 in bulk, and cover all with a very thick sauce of 
 cream, oil, and mustard, seasoned to taste; then plant 
 on the ceijter, so as to stand erect, a few of the hearts 
 of the lettuces which have been used, after which 
 build around a border of hard-boiled eggs cut into 
 fantastic forms. AN'CHOVY SALAD "At Kettner's 
 famous restaurant in Soho they sometimes serve 
 among the hors d'&ifvres anchovy-salad garnished 
 with diminutive pickled onions." SALADE D'Ax- 
 CHOIS "Kettner, or rather his successor, Sangiorgi, 
 gives the following recipe: Wash in cold water 
 some salted anchovies, steen them in vinegar, drain 
 
 SAL 
 
 them on a cloth, and take out their fillets, which 
 shred likewise; place them symmetrically on a 
 small plate or a hors d'ofUTre dish, garnished with 
 groups of hard-boiled eggs, chopped parsley and 
 onion separately also, with whole small capers. 
 Pour a little oil over the whole, and serve." 
 THE GARLIC FLAVOR A slight rubbing of the 
 salad bowl with a clove of garlic will impart suf- 
 ficient flavor for a moderately sized salad, or a piece 
 of bread crust may be slightly rubbed with garlic 
 and put into the salad bowl while the salad is being 
 mixed, and then removed. A SALAD OF BOILED 
 ONIONS Is quite a delicacy. The unpleasant es- 
 sence of the onion disappears in boiling, and only 
 its sugar and other innocent and savory qualities 
 remain. This may be recommended for a change. 
 The onions are not to be cooked soft, but sliced and 
 parboiled. THE O.NIOX FLAVOR A new idea for 
 salads is to add the expressed juice of an onion. 
 The effect is said to be excellent and something 
 analogous to the practice of the French cooks, who 
 wipe a frying-pan with a piece of garlic before they 
 make a savory omelette. SALADE A LA ML'LGRAVE 
 Although very simple in composition this is a 
 recherche salad. For 20 persons, say, take 6 cab- 
 bage lettuces, clean and mix them with a kind of 
 remoulade containing capers. Put this mixture in 
 the salad bowl; then get ready some sliced tomatoes 
 seasoned with oil. vinegar, pepper and salt, and put 
 them round the bowl. Well dished up, this salad 
 is very pleasing to the eye as well as to the palate. 
 BEET AMD POTATO SALAD Cooked beets cut in 
 lozenge shapes, and potatoes likewise; kept separ- 
 ate, but seasoned alike with oil, vinegar, pepper, 
 salt and minced onion; mixed together and gar- 
 nished with parsley or celery at time of serving. 
 
 I One of the prettiest ways in which to garnish win- 
 ter salads is to fringe short stalks of celery and put 
 around the edge of the salad bowl. Fringe by 
 means of coarse needles. BLOATER SALAD Broil 
 2 herrings, remove skin and bone and cut the fish 
 into shreds; put into a salad bowl a head of bleached 
 endive; add the fish and z anchovies cut up, i dozen 
 minced capers and 2 boiled and sliced potatoes; over 
 all strew a few minced herbs, add a plain salad 
 dressing, toss lightly and serve. CAZAXOVA SALAD 
 Shred the white stalks of 2 heads of celery in inch 
 lengths and put them in a salad bowl with the 
 whites of 3 hard-boiled eggs also shredded, season 
 with mayonnaise sauce and chopped eschalots, and 
 strew over the surface the yolks of the 3 eggs finely 
 chopped. 
 
 SALAD DRESSINGS Home-made salad dress- 
 ing, it goes without saying, is infinitely better than 
 that bought ready made. A few not generally 
 known items on the subject may be acceptable. 
 First you can boil your dressing and so keep it, 
 tightly bottled for 14 days; take 3 eggs, i table- 
 spoonful each of sugar, oil and salt, i small table- 
 spoonful of mustard, i cupful of milk and i, or less, 
 
 . of vinegar; stir the oil, salt, mustard and sugar in a
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 427 
 
 SAI. 
 
 bowl until perfectly smooth, add the eggs well 
 beaten, then the vinegar, and lastly the milk; place 
 the bowl in a basin of boiling water and stir the 
 contents till the consistency of custard. TOMATO 
 DRESSING The following recipe for preparing a 
 delightful dressing for the tomato, when used for 
 salad, will be found useful: Beat 2 eggs well to- 
 gether, add i teaspoonful of sugar, J teaspoonful 
 of salt, the same of prepared mustard, i tablespoon - 
 ful of sweet cream and 3 tables poonfuls of vinegar; 
 place the bowl containing it in a basin of boiling 
 water and stir till it attains the thickness of cream. 
 PAKMKNTIER'S SALAD VINEGAR- Is made as follows : 
 Shallots, sweet savory, chives and tarragon, of each 
 3 ounces, 2 tablespoonfuls of dried mint-leaves, and 
 the same of ualm; beat these together in a mortar 
 and put them into a stone gallon bottle, fill up with 
 strong white-wine vinegar, cork it securely and let 
 it stand a fortnight exposed to the sun, then filter it 
 through a flannel bag. MAYONNAISE See Mayon - 
 twixe. Mayonnaise dressing can be colored green 
 with spinach green, red with pounded coral rubbed 
 through a seive, and crushed strawberry with a few 
 drops of cochineal. ASPIC MAYONNAISE DRESS- 
 ING Melt a cupful of jelly, then put it in a bowl, 
 place in a basin of ice water, mix with J^ cup of 
 vinegar, i tablespoonful of sugar, i scant of mus- 
 tard, i teaspoonful of salt, and a pinch of cayenne; 
 beat the jelly with a whisk, and when it thickens 
 add the oil and vinegar little by little, lastly a little 
 lemon juice, beating all the time. This dressing 
 ought to be very white. A RAVIGOTE "We can 
 recommend the following recipe for French salad 
 dressing. To 3 tablespoonfuls of best salad-oil 
 add a dessert-spoonful of tarragon vinegar, a salt- 
 spoonful of salt, half a saltspoonf til of pepper; chop 
 finely some tarragon, parsley, chives (or a taste of 
 onions), and mix well; it should be made half an 
 hour before the lettuce is added." SALAD A LA 
 JARDINIERE Fine strips of vegetables of various 
 colors all cooked and cold, with green peas and 
 string beans, dressed with oil and vinegar. SALADE 
 AUX CONCOMBRES Sliced cucumbers with oil and 
 vinegar. SALADE DE CHOUX ROUGES A LA RUSSE 
 Russian red cabbage salad with, sauce of sour 
 cream, hard-boiled yolks and seasonings. SALADE 
 A LA RUSSE Cooked salad of carrots, parsnips and 
 beets in shapes, pieces of fowl, anchovies, olives, 
 caviare, oil, vinegar and mustard. SALADE A L'Es- 
 PAGNOLE Spanish salad of slices of tomatoes and 
 pickled onions, with mayonnaise in the center. 
 SALADE A LA TARTARE Lettuce, pickled cucum- 
 bers, onions, herrings cut in dice, oil and vinegar. 
 SALADE A LA DEMIDOFF Slices of potatoes and 
 truffles, shallots, oil, vinegar. SALADE A LA FRAN- 
 CAISE Lettuce or any one kind of salad only, with 
 oil, vinegar, etc. SALADE A L'ANGLAISE Lettuce, 
 celery, beets, endive and cress, with oil and vine- 
 gar. SALADE A L'ALLEMANDE Slices of potatoes, 
 Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and celery, with oil 
 and vinegar. SALADE A L'ITALIENNE Several 
 
 SAL 
 
 kinds of green salad and cooked vegetables, with 
 meat or fish, anchovies, olives and tartar sauce. 
 SALADE A LA FLAMANDE Smoked herrings or any 
 dried fish, pickled shrimps, apples, beets, and pota- 
 toes with oil and vinegar. SALADE DE CRE SON 
 AUX POMMES DE TERRE Water-cress and slices 
 of potatoes, with oil and vinegar. SALADE DE To- 
 MATES Slices of raw tomatoes with chopped shal- 
 lots, oil and vinegar. SALADE DE CHICOREE A LA 
 FRANCAISE Endive with oil, vinegar and garlic. 
 SALADE A LA MADAME Lettuce with sauce of oil, 
 vinegar, yolk of egg and seasonings. 
 
 SALAMANDER An iron with a handle, like a 
 shovel of extra weight, to be made red-hot for the 
 purpose of browning the tops of dishes which can- 
 not be set in the oven; it is held over near enough 
 to toast them. 
 
 SALEP A root known by this name grows in 
 England and is used by the country people as an 
 ingredient in puddings. Also: A traveler in 
 Greece tells about a delightful beverage called salep, 
 a decoction from roots, sold in Greek towns only 
 early in the morning. The venders carry about 
 their can of salep with a charcoal fire under it, some 
 glasses and a can of water for rinsing them ; and 
 the cost, a cent a glass. (Probably a kind of sassa- 
 fras tea.) 
 
 SALMIS A way of dressing game. A roasted 
 game bird or animal cut up and best pieces reserved 
 while a gravy is made by stewing down the bones 
 with wine and seasonings, the gravy then poured 
 over the pieces to be served. {See Game, Partridge, 
 Grouse.) 
 
 SALMON HINTS ON SALMON COOKING "Sal- 
 mon ought to be eaten as soon as possible after it is 
 caught. Nothing can then exceed the beautiful 
 curdiness of its texture, whereas your kept fish gets 
 a flaccidity that I cannot away with. N. B. Simple 
 boiling is the only way with a salmon just caught; 
 but a gentleman of standing is much t:ie better for 
 being cut into thickish slices (cut across, I mean) 
 and grilled with cayenne." " Salmon also, if it be 
 a large fish, is best boiled in portions. After it has 
 been a minute in the boiling water, lift the drain, 
 and let the water flow off; repeat this several times, 
 and it will cause the curd to set and make the fish 
 eat more crisply. Henry \Villiam Herbert recom- 
 mends a kettle 'screeching with intense heat, and 
 filled with brine strong enough to bear an egg.' 
 He deprecates any sauce, as likely to injure its own 
 delicious flavor, and speaks with the utmost con- 
 tempt of the barbarism of eating green peas or any 
 other vegetable with salmon. The thinnest part of 
 salmon is the fattest part; and if you have an epi- 
 cure at table, he will certainly feel slighted if not 
 helped to some of it." (St-e Scottish, Kettle of Fish.) 
 SALMON CL-TLETS FRIED Dip slices of salmon into 
 Florence oil, strew over them cayenne pepper and 
 salt, and wrap them in oiled paper; fry them 10 min- 
 utes in boiling lard, and then lay the papered cutlets
 
 428 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SAL 
 
 on a gridiron, over a clear fire, for 3 minutes longer. 
 SAUMON A LA REGENCE A whole small salmon 
 covered with fish forcemeat, to which chopped 
 truffles are added; served with Perigeux sauce. 
 S \UMON A L'ECOSSAISE Salmon crimped and 
 boiled in salt water, served with butter and parsley. 
 SAUMON A LA TARTARE Broiled salmon steaks 
 with tartar sauce. SAUMON A LA HOLLANDAISE 
 Boiled in seasoned stock, served with Hollandaise 
 sauce. SAUMON A L'INDIENNE Salmon cut in 
 pieces stewed in curry sauce. SAUMON A LA BEY- 
 ROUT Salmon steaks broiled in papers, served with 
 a sauce of mushrooms, shallots, parsley, and wine 
 in brown gravy. SAUMON A LA CREME D'ANCHOIS 
 Salmon steaks stewed, and anchovy sauce made of 
 the liquor with butter, etc. DARNE OR TRANCHE 
 DE SAUMON A thick cut from the middle of the 
 fish. FILETS DE SAUMON A LA MARECHALE 
 Fillets saute and served with white ravigote or 
 aurora sauce, garnished with shrimps or oysters. 
 MAZARINE DE SAUMON A steamed mould of sal- 
 mon forcemeat, decorated with shrimps, served 
 with cardinal sauce. MAYONNAISE DE SAUMON 
 Pieces of cold salmon with lettuce or celery and 
 mayonnaise sauce. CANNED SALMON The Colum- 
 bia river canned salmon is a remarkably good sub- 
 stitute for fresh fish, when, as often happens, the 
 tish does not arrive in time for the hotel dinner, and 
 still the fish course cannot well be left out. It is 
 made hot by setting the cans in boiling- water, and 
 the fish should be served without breaking or mov- 
 ing it more than once, and with any of the usual 
 boiled fish sauces. Canned salmon may be scalloped, 
 baked in a dish of cream sauce, ot au gratin with 
 bread-crumbs and butter on top, in shells, in patties, 
 in cassolettes, croquettes, rissoles, and in various 
 other ways in combination with other fish and shell- 
 fish, as in a matelote. SMOKED SALMON OR KIP- 
 PERED SALMON Has always been held a prime 
 delicacy; it is picked apart without cooking, deco- 
 rated with green and served that way for breakfiist 
 or supper, or else thinly sliced and served the same 
 way. Also, steeped in warm water, sliced and 
 made hot in buttter and pepper with a little water, 
 or, after soaking, broiled and buttered. FOR PA- 
 CIFIC COAST SALMON FISHERS The following is 
 copied from an old cookery book, dated 1753: "To 
 -oickle salmon as at Newcastle: Cut pieces accord- 
 ing to the size of the fish; then take 2 qts. of good 
 vinegar, black pepper and Jamaica pepper (J oz. 
 each), cloves and mace (}^ oz. each), and I Ib. salt. 
 Bruise the spice pretty large, and put all these to a 
 small quantity of water; as soon as it boils put in 
 the fish and boil it well; take the fish from the pickle 
 and let it stand to cool, and then put it into the bar- 
 rel it is to be kept in, strewing some of the spice 
 between the pieces. When the pickle is cold, skim 
 off the fat, and pour the liquor on the fish and cover 
 it very close. 
 
 SALMON PERCH "A Swedish fish, called 
 'salmon perch,' has been brought to the London 
 
 SAN 
 
 markets this year. It is beautifully white in color, 
 and particularly delicate in flavor." 
 
 SALMON TROUT A lake-fish resembling both 
 the salmon and the Mackinaw trout, having salmon- 
 colored flesh; but of comparatively small size. It is 
 a fish of the first quality for the table. 
 
 SALISBURY STEAK For people with weak 
 or impaired digestion. It is the notion of an Amer- 
 ican physician. The surface of a round steak is 
 chopped with a dull knife, the object being not to 
 cut, but to pound the meat. As the meat- pulp comes 
 to the top it is scraped off, until at last nothing is 
 left but the tough and fibrous residue. The pulp is 
 then made into cakes and lightly and quickly broiled, 
 so as to leave it almost rasv inside. 
 
 SALPICON Minced meat of any sort highly 
 seasoned with spiced salt, lemon-peel, savory herbs, 
 truffles, etc. ; a mince of which a little is sufficient r.s 
 it is used to inclose in quenelles, or in fellies bou- 
 chees, or small patties, in rissolettes, and to impart 
 savory flavors to meat and game when placed in in- 
 cisions made for the purpose. Chopped chicken or 
 game with grated ham and spiced salt, moistened 
 with sauce, is an example. 
 
 SALSIFY- The oyster-plant (See Oyster- Plant.) 
 
 SALT STICKS- Finger-like small loaves of bread 
 salted on top before baking, eaten with soup and 
 with beer. Made in some hotels specially for a din- 
 ner roll. 
 
 SAMPHIRE "A specialty of Pegwell Bay is 
 pickled samphire, the curious seaweed so finely de- 
 scribed by Swinburne in 'Atalanta in Calydon,' 
 ' Green girdles and crowns of the sea gods, 
 Cool blossoms of water and foam." 
 The samphire is collected on a small submerged isl- 
 and in the Bay, and is bottled for sale. It gives a 
 pleasant zest to cold meat, and is said to go down 
 particularly well with hot roast mutton." There is a 
 true and a false samphire; the latter is a salt-flat weed 
 somewhat resembling purslane in its fleshybranches, 
 but growing upright; it is also called glasswort 
 from the large amount of soda which it yields to the 
 glass makers; it makes an agreeable pickle. The 
 true samphire, also eatable and sought after, grows 
 on rocky cliffs, and is the samphire mentioned by 
 Shakspeare "the samphire-gatherer's dangerous 
 trade" and in the couplet above. 
 
 SANDWICH Two thin slices of bread with a 
 thinner slice of meat or something equivalent be- 
 tween. "Meat, or potted meat, fish, hard-boiled 
 eggs, or grated cheese may be used as the lining to 
 the two surfaces of bread, etc. Be careful that the 
 slices of bread are of the same size and thickness; 
 choose bread of a close, uniform texture. Spread 
 the inner surface of each slice with butter, and, if 
 suitable, add a little mustard and salt. Chop the 
 meat, ham and chicken, or tongue and veal, together; 
 or, if only one kind of meat is used, cut thin slices, 
 and cover the buttered surface with them. Lay the
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 429 
 
 SAX 
 
 other piece of bread or biscuit on the meat and press 
 the whole tightly tog-ether. If fish is used, it must 
 be chopped up small, and a little cream and pepper 
 and salt mixed in before spreading. Cheese is to be 
 grated, and for cheese sandwiches plain thin biscuits 
 are always used. For sweet sandwiches use marma- 
 lade." When sandwiches are made for a party at 
 ball or pic-nic, the bread should be cut as thin as it 
 can be in square slices; when the filling is in, these 
 are to be cut across, making triangular shapes; then 
 the sides trimmed off, making them all of one size 
 and perfectly even. Pile them up and cover with a 
 dampened napkin till wanted. THK CHESTERFIELD 
 SANDWICHES Are deservedly popular, containing 
 as they do all the elements of a comfortable meal. 
 The interior consists of chicken and ham, accompa- 
 nied with salad. SANDWICHES A LA REGENCE 
 Are also very appetizing, being made of lobster and 
 small salad. Other excellent mixtures are anchovy 
 and egg, or anchovy and water-cress, the combina- 
 tion of saltness and freshness being much approved 
 of by the epicure. Another odd mixture consists of 
 .sardine and cucumber, two edibles which "nick" ex- 
 ceedingly well, probably on the principle of the at- 
 traction between contrasts. These sandwiches are 
 never larger than two inches square, and are served 
 in a pile in a dainty china dish. BODEGA SAND- 
 WICH A tempting sandwich which is served in the 
 Bodega wine-stores of London consists of an an- 
 chovy rolled round the outside edge of a slice of 
 hard-boiled egg neatly placed upon a thin slice of 
 brown bread and butter. WOMAN'S FAVORITE 
 SANDWICH Restaurant-keepers unanimously agree 
 that the favorite woman's lunch is a cup of bouillon, 
 with a sandwich so thin that it can be i oiled up and 
 tied with ribbon. A recent innovation in sand- 
 wiches, the idea of which is stolen by report from 
 one of these lunching places for men, where women 
 are not admitted, is to spread one wafer-cracker with 
 jelly, another with pate de foie gras, and lay them 
 together, all of which may be very delicious; but a 
 woman's favorite sandwich is an ethereal vision of 
 bread and meat -like two thin pieces of muslin slight- 
 ly discolored on one side and laid together a three- 
 cornered combination of frailty. TONGUE SANDWICH 
 -Cut up half a pound of cold boiled beef -tongue; put 
 it in a mortar with the yolks of two hard-boiled 
 eggs, a tablespoonful of made mustard, salt, and a 
 little cayenne; pound to a paste; moisten with very 
 little cream; spread the paste on slices of bread, 
 press them together, cut them in tv o, and serve. 
 Th seasoning may be changed as fancy dictates. 
 SIIKIMP SANDWICHES Made as follows they will 
 be found decidedly appetizing: Pound i pt. shelled 
 shrimps with >< small teaspoonful of cayenne, i tea- 
 spoonful of anchovy sauce, J^ teaspoonful of lemon- 
 juice, and salt to taste. Cut some thin white or 
 brown bread and butter, spread the mixture on it, 
 cover it with a second slice, press them together, 
 and cut into delicate sandwiches, which serve nicely 
 garnished on a white damask napkin. Fowl. SAND- 
 
 SAR 
 
 WICH Cut the meat from the breast of a cold boiled 
 fowl into small, thin slices; mince a few stalks of 
 celery; place one or two slices of the fowl on a slice 
 of plain bread, strew over it a quantity of the celery, 
 and pour over the celery a little mayonnaise. LIE- 
 BIG SANDWICH Toast two slices of bread, and while 
 hot spread over them a thin layer of extract of beef; 
 add a very little celery-salt; press them together, cut 
 them in two, and serve. BRIE SANDWICH The 
 cheese known as fromage de brie is excellent as a 
 sandwich. Take the necessary amount of butter re- 
 quired to butter the slices of bread ; chop up a few 
 sprigs of parsley and chives together, work them 
 into the butter and spread over the bread; cut the 
 cheese into thin strips, put it between the slices of 
 bread, and serve. CAVIARE SANDWICH Take a tea- 
 spoonful of caviare, put it in a soup-plate, add to it 
 a saltspoonful of chopped onion, a walnut of butter, 
 and the juice of half a lemon; work well together, 
 spread on thin slices of bread, press them together, 
 cut the sandwich in two, and serve. For another 
 caviare - sandwich combination see Caviare. A. 
 SQUARE YARD OF SANDWICHES "At a restaurant 
 in Gladbach a visitor ordered a roll sandwich. When 
 it came, he thought it looked rather small for the 
 price 20 pfennigs and sarcastically inquired of the 
 landlord how much he charged for a square yard. 
 ' Five marks,' was the prompt reply. ' Very good, 
 then bring me a square yard of sandwiches.' He 
 insisted on his demand, and mine host had to com- 
 ply whether he liked it or not. But on reckoning up 
 the damage he found that it took 120 rolls to com- 
 plete the square yard, which, at 20 pfennigs each, 
 would come to 24 marks instead of 5. Our traveler 
 had a ' square meal ' for once, and distributed the 
 overplus among the other guests, who were greatly 
 amused at the joke." 
 
 SANDWICH ISLAND DAINTIES "The fol- 
 lowing was the bill of fare at a dinner which was 
 given recently by King Kalakaua to a party of Amer- 
 ican visitors: 'Raw shrimps, kukui nuts, taro, pci, 
 cold chicken, crackers, raw fish, seaweed, raw crabs, 
 raw pig's liver, fruits, coffee, roast dog, ice cream, 
 champagne, lager beer, ginger ale.' The roast dog, 
 we are told, tasted like duck. In Hawaii dogs are 
 kept in pens and fed like pigs." 
 
 SANGAREE A drink composed of wine and 
 water with sugar, lemon, lime juice, or other flavors 
 optional. It is named according to the kind of wine 
 used. 
 
 SARCELLE (Fr.) Teal duck. 
 
 SARDIXE "When it reaches its full growth, 
 the true sardine is a little smaller than the herring; 
 at this stage it is fat, oily, and of a mediocre taste. 
 It weighs between a quarter and a third of a pound. 
 This fish, which on the coast of Cornwall is known 
 as the 'pilchard,' and in Brittany as the 'winter sar- 
 dine,' appears toward the close of the cold season, 
 and vanishes by June. It is then more than two years 
 old. This sardine is salted, but never preserved in
 
 430 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SAR 
 
 oil. It is the so-called summer sardine which is fried 
 in boiling oil, packed in tin -boxes, and shipped all 
 over the world. This is the same fish as the pilchard 
 or winter sardine, only it is a year younger. It ar- 
 rives off the Breton coast in vast shoals during June, 
 and thenceforward until November it is taken in 
 nets, the bait used being the salted roe of the codfish 
 or a minute species of shrimp procured in the neigh- 
 borhood. Whither it goes and where it passes the 
 cold season is unknown, but it is believed to be a 
 deep-water fish, which only in the months mentioned 
 comes to the surface. This is certain, however, that 
 it is met with only near that section of the Atlantic 
 /coast of Europe which extends from Cornwall to 
 Portugal.'-' HOME PRODUCTS SHOULD BE CHEAP 
 "Nearly all the fish eaten in America as sardines 
 come from Maine. They are small herring. Some- 
 times only a bushel or two are taken at a time, and 
 at others so many as to endanger the net. The de- 
 gree of dexterity with which they are cleaned is as- 
 tonishing, especially as it is done by veiy young chil- 
 dren. After this they are placed on large gridirons 
 and suspended over a hot fire to broil. The boxes 
 are prepared with attractive French labels indicat- 
 ing olive-oil, but this is false, as the oil is cotton- 
 seed. The packing is another operation at which 
 little people are expert. A fish is seized in each 
 hand and laid lengthwise in the box, first a head at 
 the outer end and then a tail. After the boxes are 
 full, a small quantity of oil is poured in, and then 
 they are passed to men who solder them tightly. 
 They are next thrown into an immense caldron, 
 where they are boiled two hours, thus completing 
 the cooking process and dissolving the bones of the 
 'fish. The actual cost per box, including all expenses, 
 is said to be five cents." THE SARDINE AT HOME 
 "It is safe to say that the sardines of Messina are 
 not to be surpassed, though they may possibly be 
 equalled. Like Greenwich whitebait they are rather 
 a specialty of the place. The waiter breathes a shrili 
 xvhisper through the speaking-tube which commu- 
 nicates from the ground floor to the kitchen. A sat- 
 isfacto r y response comes very promptly in the shape 
 of a faint sound of frizzling. As the whitebait are 
 merely immersed for some seconds in a wirework 
 cage in some boiling oil, so the sardines are sent up 
 with startling celerity, considering the Italian habit 
 of procrastination. The tiny fish, delicately browned, 
 are served on a soft bed of frizzled parsley. By 
 way of condiment, there are simply a couple of 
 sliced lemons, and the result is so tempting, so 
 fragrantly appetizing, that you scarcely take time 
 to disengage the fish from the bones." SAR- 
 DINES EN" CAISSES The fishermen all along the 
 coast from Gaeta to Naples have various \vays of 
 cooking fish which are unknown in the great hotels. 
 Many of them are interesting, and might be attrac- 
 tive but for the predominating flavor of garlic. 
 Fresh sardines, crisply fried in oil, are quite admi- 
 rable eating, but the fishermen have discovered a 
 more excellent way of dealing with them. They 
 
 SAU 
 
 place them in a shallow tin, imbed mem in bread- 
 crumbs, add a few savory herbs, pour :i little goo<} 
 olive oil, squeeze a lemon or two over them, and 
 then bake them over a sharp fire. The result is un- 
 expected, but not disagreeable. DEVILLED SAR- 
 DINES (/)-Try devilled sardines for breakfasts, 
 teas, and "snacks." They are easilv done. Broiled 
 lightly, a dash of lemon -juice, a pinch of cayenne, 
 and there vou are, don't you know ! (2)-Take 8 or 10 
 sardines, drain a little from the oil, cover with mus- 
 tard and cayenne. Broil lightly, or fry in a little 
 butter or oil. Serve on fingers of buttered toast. 
 SARDINES A LA HORLY Sardines dipped in batter 
 and fried are nice, though not very substantial, and 
 some persons like pilchards cooked in the same way, 
 though they are too strong flavored to suit all pal- 
 ates; a plentiful accompaniment of lemon is desira- 
 ble. CANAPES AUX SARDINES- A favorite Parisian 
 dish is made of sardines carefully skinned and 
 boned, laid on slices of buttered toast, and then put 
 into the oven, with buttered paper over them, to get 
 hot. Before serving lemon-juice is sprinkled over. 
 SARDINES WITH POTATOES Slice parboiled pota- 
 toes half an inch thick. Melt a piece of butter in a 
 stewpan, and put in a layer of half the potatoes. 
 A couple of chopped onions and some parsley must 
 i be stewed with a piece of butter in a small stew- 
 pan. Chop sardines and stir them into the latter. 
 Stew for a few minutes, then spread them over the 
 potatoes in the stewpan. Cover with the other half 
 of the potatoes, and stew them ten minutes; or the 
 whole may be done in the oven,with the dish covered. 
 SARDINES AU PARMESAN-Sardines on buttered strips 
 of toast spread with grated cheese. SARDINES EN 
 PAPILLOTES Fresh sardines boned, stuffed, cooked 
 and served in papers. (See Appetizers, Canapes, 
 Anchovies.} 
 
 SASSAFRAS A small tree abundant in the 
 United States, the bark of the roots of which emits 
 a fragrant odor and possesses mild medicinal quali- 
 ties; used for making sassafras tea, a blood purifier 
 and in sassafras beer and combinations of roots and 
 herbs in beverages and medicines. The bark can be 
 purchased in a dried state at drug stores. 
 
 SAUCES Most of the established standard 
 sauces recognized by modern cooks will be found 
 described more particularly under their respective 
 proper letters. SAID ABOUT SAUCES " For grilled 
 dishes the following appetiser may be recom- 
 mended : One teasponf ul of cream, one of vinegar, 
 one of ketchup, a teaspoonful of mustard, one of 
 Harvey's or Reading sauce, a little cayenne and salt; 
 warm in a saucepan, and pour over the grill." THE 
 PROPER SAUCE FOR SALMON " Never take lobster- 
 sauce to salmon; it is mere painting of the lily, or, 
 I should rather say, of the rose. The only true sauce 
 for salmon is vinegar, mustard, cayenne pepper and 
 parsley." A FISH SAUCE " A sauce often served 
 in France with many kinds of white fish is made by 
 putting chopped capers, a few drops of anchovy 
 essence and lemon-juice, with a little parsley or tar-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 431 
 
 SALT 
 
 ragon, into ordinary melted butter; the combination 
 of flavors is acceptable to most palates." A PARIS 
 SPECIALTY "Another recipe of la haute cuisine 
 Francaise, which is certainly worth noting, is the 
 one for grilled bream with shallot sauce (Breme 
 grillee, sauce etchalotte): Clean afresh bream, scale 
 and cut off dorsal and side fins, also end of tail; trim 
 and oil. Grill your fish over a moderate fire, pour- 
 ing oil over it from time to time. Serve on a hot 
 plate, with the following sauce over it: Melt three 
 and a half ounces of butter in a saucepan, add two 
 spoonfuls of minced shallot; let cook for three 
 minutes; add the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, 
 minced fine, two spoonfuls of Harvey's' sauce, the 
 juice of one lemon, and some minced parsley." 
 HARVEY'S SAUCE "A fair imitation of Harvey's 
 ssuce tmy be produced by working the following- 
 recipe Mince a clove of garlic very finely, add 6 
 chopped anchovies, % oz. cayenne, 3 tablespoonfuls 
 of Indian soy, 3 tablespoonfuls of mushroom or 
 walnut ketchup. Put these ingredients into a quart 
 of the best vinegar, and let them soak for about a 
 month, shaking frequently. Strain through muslin, 
 and bottle for use." STOCK FOR WHITE SAUCE 
 "A useful stock for white sance, soups, etc., can be 
 made by using the liquor in which fowls have been 
 boiled. The bones of the fowls themselves, the 
 necks, feet, etc., should all be saved, and with these 
 and a slice or two of lean ham, vegetables, herbs ( 
 etc., no other meat will be required, unless the stock 
 is wanted very strong. In this latter case, knuckle 
 of veal is the best thing." "A pinch of sugar is an 
 improvement to all white sauces." ABOUT CAPER 
 SAUCE "Although caper sauce is the orthodox ac- 
 companiment to boiled mutton, it is eqnally good 
 with roast. Those who doubt should try the ex- 
 periment." OYSTER SAUCE "Take i pint good 
 white sauce. Open and beard i dozen oysters; 
 strain the liquor; put them into the sauce, which 
 should be in a bain-marie pan. Warm thoroughly, 
 and let it come just to boiling point; then pour into 
 a hot tureen and serve. The beauty of oyster sauce 
 is that the fish should be like a well-poached egg; 
 just to have the albumen set; no more." How TO 
 MAKE OYSTER SAUCE " What a popular dainty is 
 a tureen of oyster sauce, and how often is it spoiled 
 by the common practice of letting the ovstersboil in 
 it! The proper way is to strain the liquor, and boil 
 that with the flou; and butter, adding a dash of 
 cayenne, lemon -juice, nutmeg, and anchovy essence, 
 and the oyster the last thing, long enough for them 
 to become hot through, removing the sauce from 
 the fire, so that it shall not boil after they are put 
 in." SAUCE FOR ROASTS " The following will he- 
 found a good sauce for roasts: Simmer a wine- 
 glass of red wine, an anchovy, a little stock, a chop- 
 ped shallot, and the juice of a lemon in a saucepan. 
 Pass through a tammy, and mix with the gravy of 
 your roasts." LIVER SAUCE FOR SMALL GAME 
 "Scald the livers, and mince them very fine. Melt 
 a little butter in a saucepan, add a little flour to it, 
 
 SAU 
 
 and some minced shallot. Fry for a fexv minutes, 
 add gravy stock in sufficient quantity to make a 
 sauce, a pinch of powdered herbs, pepper, salt, and 
 spice to taste, then the minced liver and a glass of 
 port wine; boil the sauce up and simmer. Add the 
 juice of half a lemon before serving." 
 
 SAUCE ADMIRAL Fish. (See Admiral.) A LA 
 MINUTE Quick sauce; flour, water and wine in the 
 pan the meat is fried in. ALBERT Cream-colored, 
 sprinkled with parsley; contains shallots, horserad- 
 ish, vinegar, broth, veloute; strained; finished with 
 yolks and cream. ALLEMANDE Cream-colored; 
 slightly acid. (See Allemande.) ALMOND Sweet; 
 custard with pounded almonds. ANCHOVY BUTTER 
 SAUCE Brown; espagnole with anchovy butter and 
 lemon juice. ANCHOVY, ANCHOIS Cream -colored. 
 (See Anchovy.) APPLE Stewed apple strained; 
 little sugar. APRICOT Sweet; marmalade diluted 
 with wine and sugar. APICIUS' SAUCE Thick sauce 
 for a boiled chicken. "Pound the following ingre- 
 dients in a. mortar: Aniseed, dried mint, and lazar 
 root (similar to assaf oetida) ; cover them with vin- 
 egar; add dates, pour in liquamen, oil, and a small 
 quantity of mustard seeds; reduce all to a proper 
 thickness with port wine warmed; pour this over 
 the chicken, which should previously have been 
 boiled in aniseed water." ARTICHOKE Puree of 
 Jerusalem artichokes with other vegetables and sea- 
 sonings. AURORA Reddish or orange color. (See 
 Aurora.) AVIGNON Cream onion sauce, bechamel, 
 garlic, cheese, oil, yolks. BACON SAUCE Cold; 
 fried bacon in dice mixed in sauce like Hollandaise. 
 BAHAMA Fish; chillies and onions in the fish gravy. 
 BEARNAISE Yellow, buttery, with chopped green. 
 (See Searnaise.) BECHAMEL White; cream sauce. 
 (See Bechamel.) BEURRE Butter sauce. BEURRE 
 XOIR Fried butter, brown, with vinegar added. 
 BIGARADE- Brown orange sauce; juice and shredded 
 rinds in espagnole and essence of game. BLONDE 
 Butter sauce made with stock instead of water. 
 BLONDE FISH SAUCE- Cream-colored with fine herbs 
 mince in it, lemon juice and white wine. BOAR'S- 
 HEAD SAUCE For cold meats; currant jelly, port 
 wine, mustard, orange rind and juice, shallot, pep- 
 per, mixed. BOHEMIAN White; bread panada di- 
 luted with broth, horseradish and butter. BORDE- 
 LAISE Brown; espagnole, claret, shallots, garlic, 
 lemon juice, parsley, cayenne, beef marrow. (See 
 Bordelaifc.) BORDELAISE, WHITE Butter sauce 
 with shallots, white wine, parsley. BOSTON Same 
 as Bohemian. BOURGEOISE Brown gravy with 
 mustard and tarragon vinegar. BOURGUIGNOTTE 
 Brown; Burgundy wine, espagnole, onions, mush- 
 rooms, and truffles. BRAWN SAUCE Cold; mayon- 
 naise with extra vinegar and sugar. BREAD SAUCE- 
 White; bread panada in milk, onion, butter, flavor- 
 ing of white wine. BRESSOISE Of Hresse, noted for 
 fat chickens; brown; chicken livers and shallots 
 fried, brown gravy, bread-crumbs, orange juice; 
 passed through a seive. BRETONNE Brown; thin 
 onion puree with chopped parsley. BRETONNE,
 
 432 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SAU 
 
 COLD For cold meats; vinegar, sugar, mustard and 
 horseradish. CALIFORNIA Brown; same as Bour- 
 guignotte with California wine. CAPER Butter 
 sauce with capers mixed in, and caper vinegar. 
 CAPER FOR FISH The same with anchovy essence 
 or mushroom catsup and high seasonings. CARROT 
 ' SAUCE On same line as purde of celery, etc. ; puree 
 of carrots in butter sauce. CAULIFLOWER SAUCE 
 For boiled fowls; chopped cooked cauliflower in 
 butter sauce. CARAMEL SAUCE- Sweet; the brown 
 coating of candy of burnt sugar inside of a pudding 
 mould, which dissolves into sauce while the pudding 
 is steaming. CARDINAL See Card nal Sauce. CA- 
 ZANOVA See Cazanova Sauce. CELERY SAUCE 
 Cream -colored or brown; pieces of white celery 
 stewed and added to either Allemande or espagnole 
 CELERY, PUREE OF Either white or brown; celery 
 passed through a seive added to sauce. CHAMPIG- 
 NONS SAUCE Mushroom sauce. CHASSEUR Hunt- 
 er's sauce; brown sauce with tomato, onions, mush- 
 rooms, parsley, lemon juice. CHATEAUBRIAND 
 Brown; meat gravy or beef extract, espagnole, 
 wine, lemon juice. CHERRY Sweet; cherries 
 stewed with port wine and sugar, passed through 
 seive, mixed with butter sauce. CHESTNUT Puree 
 of chestnuts mixed w ith either white or brown sauce. 
 CHEVREUIL Poivrade sauce with wine, Harvey, 
 currant jelly. CHILLI Pink, variegated ; tomato 
 with chopped red pepper, shallots, sliced green limes 
 mixed in white sauce with catawba wine; butter and 
 parsley. CHOCOLATE Sweet; chocolate in boiling 
 milk, sugar, vanilla. CLAM Like oyster sauce; 
 butter sauee with clam liquor, yolks to thicken, and 
 cooked clams added. CLARET Sweet; eggs, sugar, 
 claret, cinnamon, lemon rind ; whipped over the fire 
 till thick and frothy. COCKLE SAUCE Same as 
 scallops. COLBERT Brown butter sauce; espagnole, 
 beef extract or glaze, pepper, butter, lemon, parsley. 
 COURTBOUILLON Fish; white butter sauce made 
 with the boiled fish liquor, boiled onion rings, and 
 parsley. CRAB SAUCE Similar to lobster; the crab 
 meat in shreds in butter sauce. CRANBERRY 
 Stewed cranberries with plenty of sugar. CRAY- 
 FISH Butter sauce pink, with crayfish butter and 
 crayfish tails. CREAM Butter, flour, cream or milk, 
 salt, white pepper. (See Roux.) CREOLE Brown 
 tomato sauce with shallots, wine, chopped sweet 
 pepper. CRESS SAUCE Boiled cress (chopped) in 
 butter sauce. CREVETTES Cardinal sauce with an- 
 chovy and pickled shrimps. CUCUMBER Sliced cu- 
 cumbers fried in butter added to either white or 
 brown sauce. CURACOA SAUCE Sweet; syrup 
 thickened with starch, butter and curafoa added. 
 CURRANT JELLY SAUCE Jelly, espagnole, and port 
 wine; boiled. CURRANT SAUCE The preceding 
 with whole red currants added. CURRY Yellow; j 
 onion, ham', and parsley fried; flour, curry powder ( 
 broth, strained, thickened with yolks. CUSTARD j 
 SAUCE Sweet; boiling cream or milk containing 4 
 oz. sugar to a pint; poured upon 3 beaten eggs; 
 brandy, vanilla, any flavor. CZARINA Brown sauce 
 
 SAU 
 
 with sultana raisins, gherkins, etc. DEMI-GLACE 
 Brown sauce obtained from the roast-meai. pan by 
 adding broth and espagnole DEVIL SAUCE See 
 Devilled. SAUCE DIABLE Devil sauce; grill sauce. 
 DIPLOMATS Fish; pink; cream sauce with lob- 
 ster or crayfish butter and anchovy essence. 
 DIPLOMATS Sweet; "dip sauce," thick syrup 
 with flavorings. DUCHESSE Cream sauce with 
 cooked lean ham in small squares, and butter. 
 D'UXELLES. (See Duxelles.) EGG Butter sauce 
 with chopped hard eggs. ENGLISH PUDDING 
 Custard with sherry whipped over a slow fire tilj 
 thick. ESPAGNOLE Brown stock sauce made of 
 mixed meats, vegetables and aromatics fried brown 
 in butter, broth added, tomatoes, wine, brown roux, 
 boiled slowly and long; strained. ESSENCEOF CEL- 
 ERY Green celery stalks stewed in broth and the 
 broth added to white sauce. ESSENCE OF GAME 
 Whole birds or rabbits, etc., or the bones only 
 browned, then stewed and the liquor seasoned and 
 thickened. (See Fumet.) ESTRAGON Like parsley 
 sauce, tarragon instead of parsley, and little tarra- 
 gon vinegar. FERMlERE-White, containing onion, 
 capers, ham cut fine, wine, broth, butter, flour, pars- 
 ley. FINE HERBS SAUCE Cream-colored with 
 yolks, shallots, parsley, white wine in butter sauce. 
 FINES HERBESfFr.) Brown sauce with chopped 
 mushrooms, shallots and parsley. FLEMISH Set 
 Flemish Sauce. FENOuiL-Fish. Like parsley sauce 
 with chopped fennel instead of parsley. FINAN- 
 CIERS See Financiere Sauce. FLEURETTE Thick- 
 ened rich milk. FRUIT SAUCE For frozen pud- 
 dings. Marmalade diluted with maraschino and 
 whipped cream. FOUETEE Sweet. Whip sauce 
 of yolks, sugar and wine. FUMET DE GIIJIEK See 
 Fumet. GAME SAUCE Gravy from the roast pan, 
 carcasses of game birds, broth, aromatics, stewed 
 together; espagnole, port wine. GENEVOISE - See 
 Generoise Sauce. GERMAN Cold. Currant jelly, 
 orange, horseradish, sugar, mustard, vinejar, oil; 
 mixed. GHERKIN Pickle sauce, brown. Poivrade 
 sauce with sliced pickled Gherkinr,. GIBI.ET 
 Stewed liver and gizzards divested of the hard lin- 
 ing, cut up in gravy. GREEN GOOSEBERRY SAUCE 
 For boiled mackerel. Berries stewed, passed through 
 a seive, mixed with white sauce. GROSEILLES VER - 
 TES French gooseberry sauce. , Green berries with 
 butter and bread-crumbs. HACHEE SAUCE-Brown, 
 mixed. Containing shallots, mushrooms, gherkins, 
 parsley, capers, vinegar, wine. HAM SAUCE 
 Brown sauce with ham and small dice and shallots 
 fried together, and lemon juice. HANOVER Liver 
 sauce for fowls. Poultry livers boiled, pounded, 
 with cream, lemon juice, seasonings; made hot. 
 HARROGATE Gravy in the roasting pan with shal- 
 lot, lemon rind and juice, catsup, claret, cayenne. 
 HARD Sweet. Powdered sugar and two-thirds as 
 much butter worked together till white and creamy. 
 HAVRAISE Strong broth of boiled fish made into 
 white sauce with yolks and cream. HERB For 
 boiled calf's head. Chopped parsley, chervil and
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 433 
 
 SAU 
 
 chives with vinegar enough to cover. HESSOISE 
 Cold. Horseiadish, sugar, bread-crumbs and sour 
 cream. HOLLANDAISE Yellow, like mayonnaise 
 in appearance ; hot. (See Hollandaise) HOLSTEIN 
 Same as Havraise. HORSERADISH SAUCES See 
 Horseradish. HOMARD Lobster in small pieces, 
 with lobster coral in butter sauce. HUITRES Oys- 
 ters in white or brown sauce. INDIENNE Tomato 
 with curry, anchovy, lemon juice. iTALlAN-Brown 
 or white. Espagnolt or veloute with chopped mush- 
 rooms, shallots, parsley, white wine. JAMBON 
 Brown saute with shredded ham, butter and shallots 
 lightly fried. JOINVILLE Fish, orange colored. 
 The fish broth made into butter sauce with yolks, 
 lobster butter and lemon juice. JOLIE FILLE White 
 chicken sauce with hard-boiled yolks, bread-crumbs, 
 butter, parsley. KARI Curry sauce, same as In- 
 dienne. KIRSCHWASSER SAUCE Sweet. Either 
 cream or syrup flavored with kirsh. KITCHENER'S 
 (Dr.) BOTTLED SAUCE Mushroom catsup i pt. ; 
 claret i pt. ; walnut or lemon pickle )X pt. ; pounded 
 anchovies 4 oz. ; fresh lemon peel, horseradish, shal- 
 lots each i oz. ; black pepper and allspice each y 2 oz. ; 
 cayenne and braised celery seed each i drachm; in a 
 wide-mouthed bottle for 2 weeks, shaken daily, 
 strained, bottled. LEMON Sweet. Either custard 
 or syrup flavored with lemon. LIVOURNAISE Cold, 
 for fish. Mayonnaise, pounded anchovies and pars- 
 ley. LOBSTER Butter sauce with anchovy essence 
 and lobster meat. LYONNAISE Rings of Bermuda 
 onions lightly fried, added to brown tomato sauce. 
 MADElRA-Brown ; espagnole with tomato sauce and 
 madeira wine. MADEIRA, SWEET Yolks, sugar, 
 wine, lemon rind, stirred over fire till thick. MAITRE 
 D'HOTEL SeeMaitre d 'Hotel. MALT AISE Brown ; 
 fine herbs mixture, sherry and orange rind in the 
 meat pan gravy. MARINADE White; thickened 
 broth with onions, parsley, aromatics, vinegar. 
 MARRONS See Chestnut Sauce. MARROW Beef 
 marrow in slices added at last to brown sauce. 
 MATELOTE-See Matelote. MATRIMONY SAUCE-For 
 dumplings; brown sugar, vinegar, water, butter and 
 flour boiled, thicker than syrup. MAYONNAiSE-Cold, 
 yellow, salad sauce. (See Mayonnaise.) MEDICIS 
 Sweet; chocolate -flavored Bavaroise made thinner 
 with cream ; cold. MILANAISE, WniTE-Cream sauce 
 with grated Parmesan. MILANAISE, BROWN 
 Brown sauce with mustard. MINT Cold; fine-cut 
 mint, vinegar, water, sugar. MIRABEAU White 
 garlic sauce; boiled garlic passed through a seive, 
 mixed in butter sauce and glaze. MIREPOIX Sec 
 \lirepoix. MORELS SAUCE Brown, like mush- 
 room sauce. (See Morels.) MOULES Mussel sauce. 
 MUSHROOM Brown; mushrooms stewed in butter, 
 espagnole and tomato sauce added, and wine, lemon 
 juice and parsley. MUSHROOM PUREE White, 
 mushrooms chopped, stewed in butter, passed 
 through a seive. MOUSQUETAIRE Cold; mustard, 
 oil, tarragon vinegar, shallot, salt, cayenne. Mou- 
 TARDE Mustard sauce. MUSSEL Boiled mussels 
 in Hollandaise; like oyster sauce. MUSTARD SAUCE 
 
 SAU 
 
 Mustard mixed in butter sauce; for broiled fish. 
 NANTAISE Cold, light green; pounded lobster 
 mixed with ravigote sauce. NAPLES For fish; 
 cream sauce containing shrimp, anchovy, shallots, 
 capers, flavor of garlic, lemon juice, cayenne, mace. 
 XAPOLITAINE Brown; espagnole with currant 
 jelly, port wine and sultana raisins. NEAPOLITAN 
 Brown; espagnole, currant jelly, port wine, horse- 
 radish, ham and Harvey sauce. NICEOISE Cold; 
 yellow with green, like remoulade. Made with 
 hard-boiled yolks, raw yolks, mustard, oil, vinegar, 
 chives, parsley. NONPARIEL Yellow, for fish; 
 Hollandaise mixed with lobster-butter, red lobster, 
 mushrooms, hard-boiled whites, and truffles. NOR- 
 MANDE Yellow, creamy; fish broth and oyster 
 liquor thickened with roux and volks. (See Mate- 
 lote ffo'tnande.) ONION Four varieties; onions in 
 brown or white sauce; onion purees white or brown. 
 ORANGE For ducks; brown sauce with orange 
 juice and shredded peel. (See Biffarade.) ORANGE, 
 SWEET Yellow custard with starch or flour, orange 
 juice and rind, and curacao. OUDE SAUCE For 
 cold meats; lightly fried onions in butter, tomato 
 sauce, chillies, piece of dried haddock in shreds, 
 lemon juice and water, stewed together, used cold. 
 OYSTER Sauce poulette with oysters. OYSTER 
 CRAB Sauce poulette made of fish broth, oyster 
 crabs added. PARISIAN Maitre d'hotel butter with 
 shallots and beef extract added. PARISIAN, SWEET 
 Sherry, sugar and yolks whipped over fire, cream 
 added. PARSLEY {/) Chopped parsley in butter 
 sauce. (2) Parsley juice and puree in butter sauce. 
 PEPPER Brown; espagnole with addition of water 
 of boiled peppercorns and vinegar. PERIGEUX 
 Brown, truffle. (See Periffeux.) PERSIL Parsley 
 sauce. PERSILLADE A green ravigote of chopped 
 parsley, chervil, tarragon, mustard, oil, lemon juice, 
 salt, stirred together. PIQUANTE See Piquante. 
 POIVRADE See Poh-rade. PLUM Prunes cooked 
 in wine with cinnamon, mixed with espagnole. 
 POLONAISE White sauce with thick, sour cream 
 added, horse-radish, lemon juice, and chopped fen- 
 nel; for steaks, etc., in Polish style. POOR MAN'S 
 Broth thickened with brown roux, tomato catsup, 
 essence of anchovy. PORT WINE Brown, for 
 game, etc.; same as bourguiffiione, with port wine. 
 PORTUGAISE Butter, yolk of eggs and lemon juice. 
 POULETTE See Poulette. PRAWN Butter sauce 
 tinted with lobster coral and prawns. PROVENCALS 
 Both white and brown. (/) White sauce with wine, 
 tomatoes, garlic, mushrooms and capers. (2) Espa- 
 gnole with tomatoes, onions, garlic, mushrooms. 
 PUDDING SAUCE, CAREME'S This appears under 
 several different names; it is Madeira, sugar and 
 yolks whipped to froth over the fire; allowed ap- 
 proach the boiling point, but not boil. PUNCH 
 SAUCE Sweet; butter sauce with lemon, yolks, 
 sherry and brandy added; whipped over the fire. 
 RAVIGOTE The name relates to the mixture of green 
 herbs (see Ra-vigote) which may be either in oil and 
 vinegar or in mayonnaise. REMOULADE See Re-
 
 434 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SAU 
 
 moukiJe. ROBERT Name of a Paris restaurateur 
 of Rabelais' time, whose specialty this sauce was; 
 brown; espagnole with fried chopped onions, mus- 
 tard and glaze or beef extract, onions not strained 
 out. ROM AINE A sort of mincemeat eaten with fish, 
 being currants, raisins, Italian pignoli nuts (like 
 small almonds), sugar, vinegar and brown sauce. 
 RASPBERRY Sweet (/) Raspberry juice and sugar 
 added to whipped cream. (2) Raspberry syrup 
 slightly thickened with starch. RATAFIA SAUCE 
 Sweet; syrup thickened with starch, flavored with 
 lemon and ratafia liqueur. RAIFORT Horseradish, 
 cream and vinegar. REGENT'S Sweet; vanilla 
 yolk-of-egg custard with rum. RICARDO Same as 
 salmis sauce. RICHELIEU White game -sauce with 
 onions and wine. ROE SAUCE Fish; soft roes 
 cooked, pounded, seasoned, mixed with butter sauce 
 and little vinegar. ROYAL Another name for Hol- 
 landaise. ROYAL SAUCE For fowls; puree of 
 chicken, seasonings, bread panada, cream and yolks 
 stirred over fire together. SAUCE A LA RUSSE A 
 white sauce with horseradish, vinegar, yolks and 
 cream. RUSSIAN SAUCE Hot; shallots, lean ham, 
 herbs, stewed in butter; horseradish, sugar, vinegar, 
 wine, white sauce and yolks to thicken. RUSSIAN 
 Cold; horseradish, mustard, sugar, vinegar, salt. 
 SABAYON- Sweet; this also has half a dozen names; 
 it is the same as Carfime's pudding sauce above, 
 with cream added and whipped with it. SAGE 
 SAUCE For roast goose or pork; brown gravy in 
 roast-pan -with chopped sage. SAINTE-MENE- 
 HOULD Cream sauce with chopped parsley and 
 mushrooms. SALMIS The bones and trimmings of 
 birds stewed with wine, espagnole, aromatics, and 
 sauce strained off. (See Essence of Game, Fumel.) 
 SAXONY Fish; butter sauce made of the fish broth, 
 (see Roux), shallot, mustard, white wine, shredded 
 lemon. SCALLOP SAUCE Boiled scallops and their 
 liquor added to butter sauce with lemon juice. 
 SHALLOT-Light brown; for ducks, pig, game; gravy 
 from baking-pan with chopped shallots stewed in 
 wine and butter added. SHALLOT SAUCE, MILD 
 Boiled shallots rrtinced and put in butter sauce. 
 SHARP SAUCE For cutlets; shallots simmered in 
 butter and vinegar, flour, broth, gherkins, parsley, 
 pepper, salt. SHRIMP SAUCE (/) Cream sauce with 
 cut shrimps. (2) Butter sauce with anchovy essence 
 and lemon juice and shrimps mixed in. SHRIMP 
 AND ASPARAGUS SAUCE Butter sauce with shrimp 
 butter, shrimps and asparagus points. SICILIENNE- 
 Fried onions in rings in espagnole and marsala 
 wine. SORREL SAUCE Stewed sorrel like spinach 
 mixed with either white sauce for boiled meats or 
 brown sauce for roast. SOUBISE Puree of onions, 
 white, with bu'ter and milk, salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
 pinch of sugar. SOY An East Indian bottled sauce; 
 it is made of purple wrinkled morels, galangal root 
 and spices. SOYER'S A bottled sauce. SULTANA 
 For game; sultana raisins in game gravy with port | 
 wine. St-pREME-Cream sauce made of chicken broth, 1 
 butter, flour, essence of mushrooms and boiled cream. [ 
 
 SAU 
 
 TARTAR Mayonnaise with mustard, minced gher- 
 kins, capers, chervil and parsley. TEXIENNE Same 
 as Creole courtbouillon. TOMATO- Tomatoes passed 
 through a strainer, stewed down thick, variously 
 seasoned and compounded. TRUFFLE SAUCE- Sliced 
 truffles fried in butter, espagnole, wine, lemon 
 juice. (See Perigeux.) TORTUE (/) Turtle sauce 
 for calf's head; brown; espagnole with tomato 
 sauce, aromatics, and sherry, (z) Veal brown - 
 gravy with shallots-, basil, thyme, sherry, lemon 
 juice and rind and cayenne. VANILLA Sweet; yolk- 
 of-egg custard flavored with vanilla. VELOUTE 
 The sauce which is termed "white sauce," yet is 
 not cream sauce. It is the stock white sauce of 
 which other sauces are made; it is seasoned broth 
 thickened with white roux, is fuller flavored with 
 the vegetables, etc., in the broth than butter sauce 
 which is made with water, yet has not so much 
 butter. When veloute is further eniiched with but- 
 ter and glaze, and has egg yolks to make it creamy, 
 it becomes Allemande, which is finished with a 
 little lemon juice. VERTE Green sauce; ravigote. 
 VKNITIENNE For fish; white sauce made of sea- 
 soned fish broth, yolks added, lemon juice, parsley. 
 VERJUICE For ducks; green grapes boiled and 
 mixed in espagnole. VERT-PRE For eels, pale 
 green; pur^e of spinach, chives and tarragon mixed 
 with white ravigote sauce. VILLEROI White 
 sauce flavored with mushrooms. VINAIGRETTE 
 Chopped shallots and parsley with an equal quan- 
 tity of oil and little vinegar and salt; cold. WHITE 
 SAUCE-Either i-elottte or plain butter sauce. WHITE 
 WINE SAUCE The broth of fish that has been 
 cooked in wine and water, thickened. LA BELLE 
 SAUCE For fish; put J pt. of cream into a sauce- 
 pan with % of a nutmeg shaved, not grated. Beat 
 to a froth the yolks of 2 and I whole egg, put the 
 cream over the fire, stir till it thickens, put in 12 
 oysters (raw) finely chopped, stir till the cream is 
 quite hot and the oysters just set, then whisk in the 
 eggs. Just let the sauce thicken, that is all ; remove 
 from the fire, whisk for a few seconds and then 
 dress the fish with it after tasting it and seasoning 
 with salt, or the salt may be added to the eggs. 
 Garnish the fish with rings of apple dipped in flour 
 and fried brown, alternated with half rings of lemon 
 pickle. YORKSHIRE SAUCE Orange sauce for 
 ham; espagnole, currant jelly, port wine, orange 
 juice and boiled rind cut in shreds. BOTTLED TABLE 
 SAUCE The recipe for making the genuine York- 
 shire Relish is probably known only to the manu- 
 facturers. However, the following is said to yield 
 a good imitation of that popular sauce: i oz. garlic, 
 
 1 teaspoonful cayenne, 2 tablespoonf uls Indian soy, 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls mushroom ketchup, and i pt. vine- 
 gar; boil altogether 10 minutes and strain, and bottle 
 when cold. BOTTLED FISH SAUCE The following 
 recipe will be found to yield a good fish sauce: ij 
 gals, port wine, % gal. walnut ketchup, 2 pts. an- 
 chovy sauce, ^ doz. lemons, 3 doz. shallots, ij4 oz, 
 chillies, 2 oz. horse-radish, i oz. mace, }4 oz. mus-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 435 
 
 SAU 
 
 tard; boil, strain and bottle. YOUR OWN TABLE 
 SAUCE The following recipe will produce a good 
 store sauce : 2 pts. port wine or claret, 2 pts. walnut 
 ketchup, 2 pts. mushroom ketchup, 4 tablespoonfuls 
 anchovy sauce, 2 oz. fresh lemon rind cut very thin, 
 2 oz. finely scraped horse-radish, 4 cloves garlic 
 pounded, i tablespoonful pepper, i tablespoonful 
 allspice, i teaspoonful cayenne, the same of celery 
 salt, or bruised celery seed, i teaspoonful curry - 
 powder; put all the ingredients into a stoneware jar, 
 and shake it well twice a day for a fortnight; then 
 let it stand, and strain it into small bottles for use. 
 These quantities will make very nearly a gallon of 
 sauce; it will keep for any length of time and is very 
 strong. 
 
 SAUCISSOX (Fr.> Sausage. 
 
 SAUER-KRAUT See Cabbage. Before cook- 
 ing the sauer-kraut, it must be well washed in sev- 
 eral waters, then well drained, and put in a braizing- 
 pan, with a fine piece of streaky bacon, a few Frank- 
 fort sausages, some fat taken from the surface of the 
 stock-pot, and a ladleful of white stock. Stew the 
 sauer-kraut for 3 hours, letting it simmer gently all 
 the time in a moderately heated oven; but the bacon 
 and sausages will have to be taken out when done, 
 and put aside to be dished around the sauer-kraut 
 when the latter is served. THE ALSATIAN WAY 
 Quartered apples, fat salt pork and a clove of garlic 
 are put in to stew with the sauer-kraut. 
 
 SAUSAGES In Vienna a mighty fair is kept 
 open on the green sward of the Wurstl- Prater, or 
 Sausage-Park, throughout the spring, summer, and 
 autumn months of every year. From April to Oc- 
 tober the Sausage-Park daily teems with diversions, 
 music, and mirth. Excellent beer, and plain inex- 
 pensive edibles, are dispensed to the public at half a 
 dozen spacious wooden pavilions, surrounded by 
 scores of strong tables and chairs, amongst which 
 meander the itinerant vendors of sausage, for the 
 most part Italians, whose privilege of selling their 
 toothsome wares in this part of the Prater first en- 
 dowed the people's pleasaunce with its predicate of 
 "Wurstl." From these active and vociferous mer- 
 chants may be purchased every variety of the "far- 
 cimentum" so dear to Germans and Italians alike, 
 under the names of tnett-jjurst, 'salami, leberwurst, 
 mortadelhi, brat-ourst, blurtuurst. Frankfurter, and 
 a dozen other sorts of highly-flavored, thirst-creat- 
 ing compounds of meat, spice, and garlic. A CON- 
 SERVATIVE PUBLIC "Mutton Sausages. I have had 
 tho recipe for mutton sausages given me. It seems 
 good and feasible; but I have not tried it yet. These 
 sausages could be introduced into hotels and private 
 families; but I would not recommend their introduc- 
 tion to the public through the tnedium of restaurants 
 or shops. The public only admit the existence and 
 possibility of five sausages at present; viz., pork, 
 beef, German, saveloys, and black puddings, and 
 they will loo!; with great suspicion on the other fifty 
 'or sixty varieties if offered to them." BOLOGNA 
 
 SAV 
 
 SAUSAGE The sausages of Bologna, which are al- 
 most as highly appreciated as those of Strasburg, 
 are made with 10 Ibs. of fresh pork, chopped, and 
 mixed with half the quantity of bacon, the whole 
 being seasoned with salt, saltpetre, pepper, and 
 herbs, and afterwards put in a well-closed bladder. 
 1 he sausage is next steeped in brine for from 10 to 
 12 days. It is ready to eat after having been boiled 
 for 2 or 3 hours. HAMBURG SAUSAGE The famous 
 sausages of Hamburg, which are known in all parts 
 of Europe, and are made in large quantities, are 
 manufactured from the lean flesh of the pig and the 
 ox, chopped, and mixed together with fresh pork. 
 GERMAN SAUSAGE In making German sausage, a 
 quantity of the second quality df pork that which 
 is welt interlarded with fat is chopped up; but not 
 so finely as in the previous instances. It is then sea- 
 soned with parsley, cinnamon, bay-leaves, pepper 
 both in the grain and in powder and spices. 
 When the mixture is ready for filling, it is passed 
 into skins prepared from the intestines of calves, 
 I and divided into sausages of about four inches in 
 ; length. These are then exposed to smoke fora week, 
 j and, before being eaten, are boiled in water for half 
 j an hour. In some instances, pea- meal, the meal of 
 French beans, and lentils, are used for mixing with 
 the sausage-meat. Cochineal is also added by some 
 makers, in order to produce the tint which is so well 
 known. In the south of France, sausages of this 
 kind are made with the addition of garlic. THE 
 TRENCH CREPINETTE The flat sausage, or crepi- 
 nette, although it does not keep so well as the other 
 kinds, is more delicious in its fresh state. It is made 
 with the same mixture as that above described, but, 
 instead of introducing the meat into the sausage - 
 skin, it is enveloped in a piece of the caul of the pig. 
 The sausage is flat and oblong in shape, and is either 
 cooked upon the stove or the gridiron. SWADDLED 
 SAUSAGES Paupiettes; fresh pork- sausages fried, 
 then each 'one rolled up in 6 or 8 young cabbage 
 leaves, tied with thread, fried and turned in the 
 sausage-fat for 20 minutes; drained; served on hot 
 dish. SAUSAGE AND POTATO RISSOLES Small fresh 
 pork-sausages fried, cooled ; potatoes prepared as for 
 croquettes; each sausage coated with potato, egged, 
 breaded and fried. SAUSAGE KROMESKIES Cold 
 cooked sausages dipped into pancake batter, dropped 
 in hot lard and fried brown. SAUSAGE PATTIES 
 Patty or "gem" pans lined with short pie-paste, half 
 filled with sausage-meat, lid of paste put on, egged 
 over, baked. SAUSAGE PUDDING Put % lb. beef - 
 sausages into a buttered pie-dish and pouroverthem 
 t this batter: One egg, % lb. flour, i pt. milk, J^ tea- 
 spoonfiil baking-powder; bake i hour. SURPRISE 
 : SAUSAGES Take large raw potatoes, cut out a cork- 
 shaped piece and remove part of the inside sufficient 
 to contain half a sausage divested of its skin, and 
 ; bake till done. (See Potatoes, Georgette [a la~\, and 
 
 SAVARIN Brillat Savarin, noted as the author 
 of the Physiologie du Gout, or Gastronomy as a Fine
 
 436 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SAV 
 
 Art. He was a French advocate, contemporary 
 with Cargme, De Cussy, Dr. Joseph Roques, and the 
 last notable coterie of French writers on gastronomy. 
 He died at the age of seventy -one, of a cold caught 
 at Louis XVIITs funeral. 
 
 SAVARIN CAKE A yeast-raised cake, not 
 different from baba, except in the decoration of the 
 mould with almonds; after baking, the cake is satur- 
 ated with orange-syrup or wine and curacao. SAV- 
 ARIN-CAKE WITH STRAWBERRY-SAUCE "A delici- 
 ous entremets just now in the strawberry season in 
 Paris: Cook 20 little savarin - cakes in dariole moulds, 
 and, as they come out of oven, dip them in syrup 
 flavored with lemon and orange-peel; let syrup run 
 off, mask them with an icing of powdered sugar di- 
 luted with straw berry -juice; build them up on dish 
 into a pyramid, and send them to bible with a 
 pure of strawberries, diluted with vanilla-flavored 
 syrup." 
 
 SAVELOY A popular variety of sausage ready- 
 cooked; it is reddened with saltpetre; made of 2 Ibs. 
 saltpetre- pickled pork, 6 oz. bread-crumbs, 4 sage - 
 leaves, i teaspoonful pepper; filled into skins and 
 boiled. 
 
 SAVORY One of the seasoning herbs; can be 
 grown in any garden; is far better green than in the 
 dry powdered state as found at the stores; can often 
 be obtained in regular supply from the market-gar- 
 deners. There are two varieties, the summer and 
 winter savories, . both fragrant and most excellent 
 for soups and stews. 
 
 SAVOY CABBAGE A variety of cabbage with 
 curly or crimpled leaves. 
 
 SAVOY CAKE Sponge cake; called by the 
 French, biscuit de Savoie. 
 
 SCALLOP A bivalve; a larger sort of cockle, 
 white; shipped like oysters in bulk without the 
 shells, and obtainable at the fish-markets. Can be 
 cooked in many of the same ways as oysters, fried, 
 scalloped, in soups. SCALLOPS A LA BRETOISE 
 Cook the scallops in a little white wine and broth; 
 cut a few eschalors in small dice, fry them in butter, 
 add the liquor of your scallops, strew fresh bread- 
 crumbs and the spawn of a lobster, chopped parsley, 
 salt, pepper, and a piece of fresh butter; fill some 
 scallop-shells with the mixture, cover with grated 
 bread-crumbs, sprinkle a little melted butter over 
 each, and bake in a hot oven. DEVILLED SCALLOPS- 
 Like Philadelphia devilled oysters, minced. Take a 
 hundred of them and place, sharp edges downwards, 
 in a large saucepan; add a pint of water; cover the 
 pot, and set over a brisk fire; as soon as the shells 
 open, they are ready for further treatment. When 
 cool, mince the flesh of the shell -fish finely; add 
 bread-crumbs, a piece of butter, pepper, fine herbs 
 to taste, and mix the whole together with enough of 
 the liquor from the scallops to make a stiff batter; 
 fill the shells of the largest of them with the mix- 
 ture, cover the top with fine bread-crumbs, moisten 
 with melted butter, and place in a brisk oven until 
 they are nicely browned. 
 
 SCO 
 
 SCALLOP SHELLS Metal shells, silver, or 
 plated, granite ware, or tin. They are made in the 
 form of natural scallop-shells, that being the hand- 
 somest shape for holding scalloped fish, clams, lob- 
 ster, and all such dishes to be served hot in the 
 shells. Can be found at the furnishing stores. 
 
 SCHMIERKASE "Schmierkase has all the sea- 
 sons for its own among the Pennsylvania farmers, 
 but it is only in the fall that sauer-kr.iut and lod- 
 waerrick get their work in. In the fall, too, metzel- 
 sup is on the circuit, and many rise up gladly and 
 clutch it." Schmierkase or smearkafe is the cheese 
 made for immediate use from the curd of sour milk. 
 The "clabbered" milk must be heated to the boiling 
 point, when the curd becomes solidified and the clear 
 whey can be drained off by pouring the whole into a 
 cloth and hanging it up to drip. May then be broken 
 up and seasoned either with salt, pepper, and cream, 
 or as a sweet dish with sugar or fruit. If pressed 
 and kept, it ripens and can be made a good imitation 
 of Xeufchatel. 
 
 SCORPION OMELETTE "A curious dish was 
 prepared the other day for a British traveler in Mex- 
 ico. The attendants served up an omelette, and the 
 servants partook very heartily of the dainty morsel, 
 but the traveler mistrusted the food owing to certain 
 black particles mixed therein. Inquiring as to the 
 nature of the suspicious ingredients, he could 
 scarcely believe his ears when the reply was given: 
 'Oh, these are scorpions,' and an investigation 
 proved this to be true, the lower orders in Mexico 
 thus utilizing the young scorpions, which are dug 
 out, hundreds in a nest, their sting being cut off be- 
 fore cooking." 
 
 SCOTTISH COOKERY There is a demand 
 pressed upon hotel-keepers and stewards for pecu- 
 liarly Scotch dishes for* annual celebrations more 
 frequently than for those of any other nationality, 
 and the following repertory will be found useful. 
 For the benefit of your readers (writes Mac Haggis) 
 I beg to send you the following recipe for GROUSE 
 SOUP which is a most palatable potage. It is usually 
 made from birds which have been hashed in the 
 shooting, or cheepers. Let the grouse be plucked 
 and drawn, joint them, and stew the pieces patiently 
 in two or three pints of diluted soup-stock till they 
 are tender. Put the backbones of the birds in an- 
 ocher pot, and simmer till all the virtue has been ex- 
 tracted ; then strain the liquor from each pot and mix 
 it together, restoring to it the best of the joints. 
 Give this a smart boil in another pan, season to taste 
 with pepper and salt, add one knob of sugar and a 
 glass of port-wine. If preferred, a little bit of car- 
 rot may be boiled in the compound many persons 
 add a slice of toasted bread cut into very small dice. 
 This soup takes about two hours and a half to make 
 ready. Perhaps some, however, would prefer to try 
 the celebrated POTAGE A LA MEG MERRILEES, 
 which used to be served at Abbotsford. This soup 
 was "composed" by the then Duke of Buccleuch's
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 437 
 
 SCO 
 
 flief at Bow Hill in honor of Sir Walter Scott. A 
 couple of ' array" hens or blackcock, an old grouse, 
 or two or three cheepers, with a partridge or two, 
 are necessary for this compound, but no stock is 
 used. Cut up the birds, and stew them in as much 
 water as is necessary for making into soup, reserv- 
 ing' twenty or so of the fleshy bits for after-use. 
 Put in the stewpan the heart of a small cabbage, a 
 cut carrot, and a few large beans (about a dozen) 
 which have had their skins removed; let them be all 
 slowly stewed for three hours, keeping the lid of 
 the pot close. When the time is about up for the 
 stew being done, fry the reserved pieces quickly in 
 flour and butter, place them in another pot, and 
 strain the liquor from the stew over them. Boil 
 again, with a head of celery cut into very small 
 bits; season with salt and a pinch of cayenne. The 
 second boiling should last for an hour or so. Note: 
 Mac Haggis is not sufficiently explicit about the fry- 
 ing "the reserved pieces in flour and butter," which 
 cannot be done; \)\\tmea.nsfairerevenir(feeRevenir) 
 to fry the pieces in butter, then add flour, and after 
 that the stock, which will be thickened by the ex- 
 tempore ronx thus made. SCOTCH HARE SOUP 
 "While I am in my battene de cuisine, I must give a 
 formula for the making of hare -soup, as it is served 
 on the best Scottish dinner-tables a vastly different 
 compound from what we are accustomed to in Lon- 
 don. As much of the blood of the hare must be 
 saved as possible; so that snared or coursed hares 
 are the best for the soup-pot. Use a. couple; cut one 
 in joints, in order to make a stock; boil it in as much 
 water as may be required for the soup, with, say, 
 two heads of celery, an onion or two, and an apple 
 pared and cored. If haies are scarce, boil 3 Ibs. of 
 leg of beef, bones and aM, by way of stock; joint the 
 second hare carefully, saving ever}' drop of the blood, 
 which pour into the stock, both being cold at the 
 time of mixing, having previously strained it into a 
 clean pan ; set on the fire, and stir constantly till it 
 boils; then add the joints of the hare, and keep the 
 soup simmering till they are cooked, say in about 70 
 minutes; serve very hot, with a portion of the meat 
 to each guest, taking care to give the head to a pro- 
 fessed epicure. Sir Walter Scott used to say that 
 hares were created to be made into soup." SCOTCH 
 HOTCH-POTCH "I may mention, too, that I am the 
 happy possessor of a ' plain directions ' for making 
 'hotch-potch' and 'cockie-leekie.' The first is made 
 of a great variety of vegetables grated carrot and 
 chopped carrot as well, likewise a chopped turnip 
 and a few small turnips, the heart of a small cab- 
 bage cut into shreds, plenty of green peas, as also a 
 few beans (they must have been skinned); a teacup 
 of cauliflower-heads, and a little parsley may also 
 be used. The best meat to place in the pot is 4 Ibs. 
 of fresh lamb or mutton, cut into pieces or boiled 
 whole, according to taste, but it is best cut into 
 mouthfuls. All the green stuff required should be 
 carefully cleaned. Let the soup be well boiled, and 
 the cook should remember the useful seasoning of 
 
 SCO 
 
 , pepper and salt. Do not make more of this soup 
 than can be consumed at one sitting; it is best when 
 I newly made. The cook should religiously bear in 
 mind that the potaffe must not be boiled long enough 
 I for the vegetables to lose their individuality. Beef 
 ! may be used in place of mutton." SCOTCH COCKIE- 
 i LEEKIE "Is a very appetizing soup, and can be 
 made, if necessary, without a fowl. It should be 
 'thick of leeks," cut in small pieces, the rank tail- 
 ends being dispensed with, and the leeks ought to be 
 well cleaned and the roots carefully removed. Three 
 or four pounds of leg of beef will make a good found- 
 ation; boil in as much water as may be necessary till 
 the meat is in rags, a couple of big leeks being boiled 
 with it. Strain off the liquor and place in it, cut up 
 in small portions half a dozen or more big leeks, 
 which boil till ready. If you have a fowl, cut off the 
 fleshy parts and cook them till done in the soup, hav- 
 ing previously used the carcass in making the stock. 
 The compound, seasoned to taste, ought to be 'thick 
 and slab,' therefore grudge not the leeks." A KET- 
 TLE OF KISH "A Tweed kettle, of course, which is 
 ' par excellence ' the kettle. First procure your 
 salmon, empty it, and trim off the rougher parts of 
 the fins; then wash the inside of the fish well with 
 pure cold water, and cut it across from shoulder to 
 tail into many slices, each being about three quart- 
 ers of an inch in thicknes. Your kettle (or pot), with 
 the necessary quantity of water (enough to cover the 
 cut-up salmon, and to allow of a little 'boiling in,' 
 as also of a helping of the liquid to each slice of the 
 fish, as well as to admit of a portion being left in aid 
 of the next kettle), should be on the fire, and the 
 water boiling merrily. Pop the slices of salmon into 
 the kettle, and let them cook for fully twelve min- 
 utes; and remember this, the water in which you 
 boil your fish can scarcely be too salt in fact, it 
 should be as brine. Long ago, on the Tweedside, 
 when 'the kettle' was a greater institution than it is 
 now, a portion of the water in which one fish was 
 boiled was preserved as a foundation for the boiling 
 of its successor. At Abbotsford, when a kettle was 
 served on Sir Walter's fishery, the usual accompani- 
 ment to it was oat-cakes and flour-scones well 
 buttered, no sauce being thought of other than 
 that with which the ' venison of the waters ' had 
 been boiled, with pei haps a drop or two of vinegar." 
 SCOTCH BROTH A Scotch Recipe. Put a teacupful 
 of pearl barley into four quarts of cold water, let it 
 boil, add 2 Ibs. of scrag of mutton or thin flank of 
 beef, two onions, two turnips, two carrots cut in 
 dice, and one carrot grated; boil slowly for three 
 hours ; add salt and pepper to taste before removing 
 from the fire. KALE BROSE Boil an ox-heel in 
 three quarts of water, letting it gently simnier for 
 four hours. Shred two large handfuls of greens or 
 sea-kale, put them into the broth, and when suf- 
 ficiently cooked stir J4 P' n t of toasted oatmeal into 
 a little of the fat broth in another vessel, add it to 
 the rest, season with pepper and salt, boil all, serve 
 hot. HOWTOWDIE Truss a young fowl as for
 
 438 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SCO 
 
 boiling. Place in a stewpan 4 oz. butter, and when 
 the latter is quite hot, place the fowl in stewpan, 
 and allow it to brown nicely all over, turning it 
 round so as to facilitate this. When brown, place 
 a bouquet garnie, seasoning of salt, pepper, three 
 cloves, three small onions in the stewpan with the 
 fowl ; pour % pint of good stock over, and simmer 
 gently for half an hour. Now turn the fowl over, 
 add J pint more of good stock, simmer another half 
 hour. Havr ready some spinach, nicely cooked and 
 seasoned, some rice plain boiled, and put in small 
 moulds, and some sliced truffles. Lay the fowl on 
 dish; the gravy will now be a rich glaze; pour the 
 gravy over the fowl ; arrange spinach in small pieces, 
 or a border of it, turn the rice out of the cups, and ar- 
 range little distances apart on the border of spinach; 
 lay a nicely-shaped piece of truffle on the top 
 of each shape of rice. This is a very old and pala- 
 table Scotch dish. MINCE COLLOPS i Ib. best 
 rumpsteak minced fine. Place 2 oz. butter in a pan, 
 and stew the meat for ten minutes; then add salt, 
 pepper, and ^ pint water; simmer very gently for 
 over an hour; add a dessert-spoonful Worcester 
 sauce, and the same quantity of flour, mixed in a ta- 
 blespoonful of water; boil for two minutes; serve 
 with sippets of toast and Swiss eggs, Swiss EGGS 
 Butter small moulds sprinkled with finely chopped 
 parsley, pepper, and salt; break some eggs, place 
 one in each mould, being careful to see that the yolk 
 is in the center of mould, cover the moulds with 
 buttered paper, and steam for five minutes; turn out 
 of mould, when the parsley has a very pretty effect, 
 all over the white of egg. SCOTCH EGGS Take ^ 
 Ib. cooked ham or chicken, finely minced and sea- 
 soned, mixed with 2 oz. breadcrumbs, and one well- 
 beaten egg; form into oval balls, rather larger than 
 an egg, egg and breadcrumb, and fry in hot fat; 
 drain, and cut in half; scoop out a small hollow in 
 the center of each half, and place the half of a hard- 
 boiled egg in each piece of croquette, press well 
 down so as to be level with meat, have little rounds 
 of buttered toast or fried bread, place each Scotch 
 egg on a round, and serve garnished with fried 
 parsley. SCOTCH SHORTBREAD i Ib. flour, % Ib. 
 butter, % Ib. sugar, the yolk of one egg. Mix the 
 ingredients together, and work very well for quar- 
 ter of an hour. Roll out to one inch in thickness, 
 cut in squares, pinch round edges, ornament with 
 peel or comfits. Bake in very moderate oven for 
 half an hour. The oatcakes are made of very fine 
 oatmel, water, salt and a little baking powder; they 
 are baked in a moderate oven, and are very crisp; it 
 is quite a mistake to mix fat or butter with oatcakes. 
 If nicely prepared without fat, they are quite crisp, 
 and far. more wholesome than when fat is used. 
 SCOTCH WOODCOCK Take three slices of bread, 
 about half an inch thick, remove crust and toast 
 quickly; butter on both sides and spread anchovy - 
 paste thickly on one side only; place these on a hot 
 dish, cover, and keep warm while you prepare the 
 sauce. Beat the yolks of four eggs, with a pinch of 
 
 SCO 
 
 cayenne pepper, until they are smooth and creamy; 
 pour over, stirring all the time, one large cupful of 
 hot cream ; return to the saucepan, and stir briskly 
 until the sauce thickens, and then immediately pour 
 over the toast, and serve hot. Be very careful not 
 to let the sauce boil, or the yolks will curdle. SCOTCH 
 OATMEAL PORRIDGE Half fill a small pot with 
 boiling water. FU1 your left hand with medium 
 fine oatmeal. Trickle it slowly through your fingers 
 into the water. Keep stirring this with a spurtle 
 (Anglice, a stirring stick), that no particles may- 
 stick to the bottom, and add half a teaspoonful of 
 salt. Add oatmeal till the mixture is of the con- 
 sistency of treacle. Leave it on the fire three min- 
 utes longer, stirring all the time in all ten minutes. 
 All the starch-cells will then, (with this fine cut of 
 oatmeal) be burst open. Lay out five small soup- 
 plates on the table, the usual quantity in a family. 
 Catch hold of the bow of the pot with a cloth be- 
 neith your hand. Pour out the quantum into each 
 plate, using the spurtle to hold the pot in position. 
 Leave standing three minutes to solidify and cool. 
 Supply a bowl of sweet milk to each. Half fill the 
 spoon with porridge, dip it into the bowl to fill the 
 other half with milk, and you will have an article of 
 diet surpassed by none in giving you brain, vigof 
 health of mind and body. Porridge made from 
 round oatmeal is best, but it requires twenty-rive 
 minutes' cooking before the starch -cells are all 
 burst open. It is, however, worth the trouble. 
 SCOTCH OATMEAL CAKES Put a small teacupful 
 of waler into a large bowl. Dissolve in it three- 
 fourths of a spoonful of baking soda (bicarbonate of 
 soda). To the solution add oatmeal till of the con- 
 sistency of dough. Be quick, or it will dry and 
 toughen. Have two baking-boards 18 inches by 18 
 inches. Place the ball of wet oatmeal on one of 
 them, sprinkling dry oatmeal beneath to prevent it 
 adhering. Roll this ball out with a 2j{-inch roller. 
 Brush all the dry oatmeal clean off, cut off the rag- 
 ged edges, place the other board above, reverse and 
 lift the former board. A girdle is hung on the fire. 
 This is a circular sheet of sheet-iron, iS inches in 
 diameter. Let the elongated cake of oatmeal slip 
 from the baking- board on to the girdle. Cut the 
 cake in four. Repeat the operation with another 
 cake. When half done, turn the four cakes on the 
 girdle, as they will by that time be "done" on the 
 under side. When ready with the second cake, lift 
 off the first four cakes and place them before the 
 fire to dry, as by that time they will be done enough. 
 This, of course, has to be noticed. Regulate the 
 height of the girdle from the fire according to the 
 heat. Remember the old rhyme that King Alfred 
 forgot 
 
 "The bannocks are burnin', 
 
 And ready for turnin'," 
 
 and you will have from the ordinary sweet, fine 
 Scotch oatmeal a well -flavored and wholesome 
 cake. Fresh, newly made butter added to this and 
 a finnon haddock will make a very palatable break-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 439 
 
 SCO 
 
 fast. These two articles of food have been the 
 principal cause of the energy, the vitality, the force, 
 the vigor, the virility, the simplicity and the ability 
 of the Scotch character. SCOTCH PUDDING-TO one 
 qvart of well-cooked barley add six ounces of sifted 
 sugar, mix both together with one quart of milk in 
 a stewpan, then add four ounces of fresh butter, a 
 pinch of salt, the rind of a lemon rubbed on sugar, 
 and a wineglassful of whisky. Stir the whole on 
 the fire until it boils, and then work the batter per- 
 fectly smooth ; next work in six yolks of eggs, and 
 then lightly mix in six whites of eggs whisked into 
 a firm froth; pour the batter into a slightly buttered 
 pie-dish and bake' the pudding in moderate heat. 
 SCOTCH IlAGGis-Take the stomach of a sheep, wash it 
 well, and let it soak for several hours in cold salt and 
 water, then turn it inside out, put it into boiling water j 
 scald, scrape it quickly with a knife, and let it re- i 
 main in water until wanted. Clean a sheep's pluck 
 thoroughly. Pierce the heart and the liver in several 
 places, to let the blood run out, and boil the liver 
 
 THE HAGGIS. 
 
 Fair fa' your honest sonsie face; 
 Weel are ye worthy o' a grace 
 As lang's my airm. 
 
 and lights for an hour and a half. When they have 
 boiled a quarter of an hour, put them into fresh 
 water, and, during the last half hour, let the rest of 
 the pluck be boiled with them. Trim away the skins, 
 and any discolored parts there may be, grate half of 
 the liver, and mince all the rest very finely; add a 
 pound of finely-shred suet, two chopped onions, 
 half a pint of oatmeal, or, if preferred, half a pound 
 of oat-cakes, toasted and crumbled, two teaspoon - 
 fulsof salt, and one of pepper, half a nutmeg, grated, 
 and a grain of cayenne. Moisten with half a pint 
 of good gravy and the juice of a small lemon, and 
 put the mixture into the bag already prepared for it. 
 Be careful to leave room for swerling, sew it se- 
 curely, and plunge it into boiling water. It will re- 
 quire three hours' gentle boiling. Prick it with a 
 needle every now and then, especially during the 
 first half hour, to let the air out. A haggis should 
 be sentto table as hot as possible, and neither sauce 
 nor gravy should be served with it. The above is 
 sufficient for eight or ten persons. A SCOTTISH BILL 
 OF FAKE Dinner given by the Scottish Society of 
 Sheffield, at the Clarence Hotel in that town, to 
 commenimorate the anniversary of the poet Burns: 
 The Pncses wi' admonition due will say the "Sel- 
 kirk Grace." 
 
 SCR 
 
 Some ha'e meat that canna eat, 
 
 An' some wad eat that want it; 
 But we ha'e meat an' we can eat, 
 
 Sac let the Lord be thaiikit. 
 
 THE DENNER First Koiiu'-Cock o' Leekie. Clear 
 Turtle. Scotch Broth. Second /?ow'-Salmon, Fen- 
 nel Sauce. Frizzled Smelts, Sauce Tartare. Bristled 
 Glesca' Magistrates. 7%/Vrf/fo'-ScotclTCollops. 
 Calf's Heid an' Mushrooms. Stewed Kidneys a la 
 Champagne. Fourth Roun' The Pibroch will 
 soun' the approach o' The Haggis. A wee drap o" 
 Talisker. Fifth Roun' A bit wee lambie an' a bit 
 o' its Mither. Sirloin o' Beef. Tatties Biled an' 
 Chappit. Bashed Neeps. Sixth Roun' Roastit an' 
 Biled Bubbly Jock. Roastit Deuks an' Hens. Tung 
 an' Grumphy a la Champagne. Seventh Roun' 
 Some sma' Birds. Roastit Pheasants an' Muir Fowl. 
 Eighth Roun' Cabinet Puddin'. Lemon Puddin'. 
 Ninth Roun' Sultane, French Pastry, Compote of 
 Rhubarb, an' Orange, Greengage an' Apple Tairts, 
 Charlotte Russea n' Raspberry Creams, Custard, 
 Meringues a la Creme, Noyeau an" Maraschino Jel- 
 lies Trifle, wi' ither sunkets couthie to the kyte. 
 ZV.s-.stfr/-PIneapples, Grapes, Apricots, Pears, Oran- 
 ges, Apples, Filberts, Walnuts, etc. 
 
 We thank Thee for these mercies, Lord, 
 
 Sue far beyond oor merits; 
 Noo, waiter lads, clear aff the plates, 
 
 An' fesh us in the spirits. 
 
 Wines, etc. (List on the Table). But nane need 
 drink that are na dry. CURLER'S PUDDING 
 "At a supper recently served at the Caledonian Ho- 
 tel, Oban, to the local Curling Clubs, Mr. and Mrs. 
 Craig Watt (the worthy host and hostess) created a 
 welcome surprise by including in the bill of fare a 
 "Curlers' Pudding," a novelty not less delicious to 
 the taste than singular in appearance. There were 
 two of these puddings, one at each end of the table, 
 exactly the size and color of a pair of curling stones, 
 resembling polished Ben Cruachan granite, and sur- 
 mounted with a pair of real handles. A " CALF" 
 DINNER At a dinner given by Lord Polkemmet, of 
 the Scottish Bar, his guests saw, when the covers 
 were removed, that the fare consisted of veal broth, 
 a roasted fillet of veal, veal cutlets, a veal pie, a 
 calf's head, and calf's-foot jelly. The judge, oo- 
 serving the surprise of his guests, volunteered an 
 explanation. "Ou, ay, it's a cauf ; when we kill a 
 beast, we just eat up ae side, and down the other." 
 
 SCONES Scotch name for baking powder bis- 
 cuits. There are also soda scones, or biscuits, gra- 
 ham scones, etc. 
 
 SCOTCH BUNS Made like dumplings, the out- 
 side being light dough made as for French rolls, 
 with a good allowance of butter in it, the filling a 
 walnut-sized ball of currants, raisins, almonds, cit- 
 ron and spice stuck together with enough butter and 
 flour. The dumplings, flattened a little, are notched 
 on the side, allowed to rise, egged over, and baked. 
 (See Simnels.) 
 
 SCRAG OF MUTTON The real neck. The 
 neck of mutton, or lamb, or veal mentioned so fre-
 
 440 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SCR 
 
 quently in cook-book directions generally means 
 what in this country is called the rack, the best part 
 of the ribs which furnishes the shapely cutlets. 
 
 SCRAPPLE Domestic and'local name, credited 
 to Pennsylvania, of a mixture of head-cheese and 
 cornmeal boiled together, and when cold cut into 
 slices and fried. 
 
 SCUPPERNONG-A large Southern wild grape. 
 Good for making wine. Comes to market as loose 
 berries, like plums, and not in clusters; not choice 
 for the table. 
 
 SEA COW The flesh of the sea-cow, found in 
 the vast rivers of Brazil, resembles fresh pork, and 
 is excellent. Sausages are made of it and sent to 
 Portugal as a great delicacy. 
 
 SEA KALE It is well known that this popular 
 vegetable is used in a forced and always blanched 
 state. It is a native of the seashore and cliffs of the 
 south and west coasts of- England. " For centuries 
 before it was known, as now, at the tables of the 
 great and wealthy, it was an object of special re- 
 gard in the humble dwellings of the south coast 
 fishermen. Clambering up the cliffs, and swinging 
 themselves by means of ropes over precipitous 
 heights, they encountered any amount of danger to 
 obtain, in spring, the tender shoots of that delicious 
 vegetable as they were just emerging from the 
 sand and shingle in which they grew." It is cooked 
 in the usual way for greens and cabbage, generally 
 boiled with bacon. 
 
 SEA TROUT An American sea-fish, speckled 
 and otherwise resembling a brook trout, yet not of 
 the salmonidae family. Common and plentiful, from 
 I to 2 pounds weight. 
 
 SEA-URCHIN "Another radiate, and the only 
 other one of this class that I know to be eatable, is 
 the Echinus the sen-urchin, or sea-egg. This 
 animal carries a system of channels and membranes 
 in a hollow globe of flinty, but brittle texture, cov- 
 ered by spines, like a miniature hedgehog well 
 rolled up. Examine one when it holds no eggs, and 
 you will find nothing eatable about it, inside or out. 
 "Whatever the season, however, but especially in 
 summer, a large proportion of them will contain 
 several bunches of orange-yellow eggs so minute 
 that the whole contents of a big echinus will not fill 
 a dessert-spoon. These eggs taste like an oyster 
 and are nutritious; they call for no cooking, and are 
 easily got at. Thus they have always been fed upon 
 as a relish by half-refined coast people like those of 
 Eastern Asia and its neighboring islands, and by 
 the well -supplied Indians of Puget Sound and Brit- 
 ish Columbia, and have proved the stand-by of mis- 
 erable savages whose desolate homes afford them 
 little else to maintain life. The Neapolitan poor 
 are not as a rule dainty, but, while delighting in 
 sea-urchin, they look down with scorn upon the 
 Calabrese, because they eat sea-slugs, which, if 
 properly cooked, are not very bad." 
 
 SEA-SLUG See Beche de Mer. 
 
 SHE 
 
 SEED CAKES Plain and cheap sorts of cakes 
 flavored with caraway seeds. (/) Made of i Ib. 
 butter, i % Ib. sugar, S eggs, 3 Ibs. flour, 6 teaspoons 
 powder, i o^. caraway seed, ij^ pts. milk, 3 oz. cit- 
 ron chopped fine ; baked in moulds. (2) i Ib. sugar, 
 y Ib. butter, 5 eggs, 3^ Ibs. flour, 6 teaspoons pow- 
 der, i qt. milk, lemon extract and J^ oz. caraway 
 seeds; baked in small moulds. 
 
 SEMOLIXA Known in this countrv as farina; 
 it is the same thing made from wheat that fine 
 hominy "grils" is from corn. (See Farina, Soups.) 
 
 SERVIETTE (Fr.) -Napkin. 
 
 SHAD American sea-fish; an early spring lux- 
 ury. It enters the rivers in immense shoals, the 
 southern rivers first and those further northward in 
 succession as the season advances, where it is taken 
 and shipped to all parts of the country. The shad 
 rarely exceeds 4 Ibs. weight, it tastes like fresh her- 
 ring, is best broiled, but is cooked in a variety of 
 other ways. The one drawback is the abundance 
 of small bones in its flesh. When to be broiled, or 
 opened and stuffed, the back -bone should be re- 
 moved and then the rib bones drawn out with the 
 fingers, which will be found an improvement and 
 facilitates the carving of the fish. BROILED SHAD 
 A LA CLERMONT Split down the back, the spine 
 removed, the fish steeped an hour in oil and lemon 
 juice, broiled, doubled to its original shape, served 
 with fried oysters and fried pieces of shad roe 
 around and maitrt d'hotel sauce. ALOSE A LA 
 MAITRE D'HOTEL Shad cooked as above, served 
 flat as it is, broiled, with the sauce and parsley and 
 lemons. 
 
 SHAD ROES See Fish Roes, Laitantes. 
 
 SHADDOCK OR "GRAPE FRUIT" The 
 shaddock is a handsome, though scarcely a delicious, 
 addition to our dessert fruits; the flavor of its juice 
 being a sweetish acid, intermediate between that of 
 the orange and the lemon, with rather a bitter taste. 
 i It may not be generally known that the best marma- 
 lade is produced from the shaddock, a sort of cross 
 between the orange and the lemon, and named after 
 a Captain Shaddock, who first brought it from 
 China, or, as some say, from Guinea, and planted it 
 in the West Indies, whence we derive our limited 
 supply. 
 
 SHALLOT That variety of onion which grows 
 from a bunch of roots and does not form one com- 
 pact bulb. It brings the earliest spring onions, the 
 roots being divided and planted singly. Is oftenest 
 named in cooking directions, as it is the mildest 
 flavored of the onion tribe. 
 
 SHARK In Havana the shark is sold as food in 
 the open market. The almond-eyed heathen Chin- 
 ese loves shark's fins cooked with bamboo shoots. 
 
 SHEEPHEAD An American sea-fish of excel- 
 lent quality. Its name is misleading, unless spelled 
 as above, to those who do not know that actual 
 sheeps' heads are not euten in the United States. It
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 441 
 
 SHE 
 
 is very generally spelled sheeps-head in the North 
 and sheepheud in the South; the latter is the right 
 way, as it is not a sheep's head, but a sheep-headed 
 fish, the resemblance consisting in its having rows 
 of front teeth and a sheep-like mouth. It is best 
 cooked by boiling. . 
 
 SHEKRA1 1" I remember one day at a chapar- 
 kliana in Persia the chapar-jee said he could pro- 
 vide me with both eggs and sheerak. Sheerah is a 
 sort of thin molasses made from sweet grapes. He 
 seemed a pretty intelligent sort of a young man, so 
 I contented myself with telling him to go ahead and 
 cook the eggs. When supper-time came round the 
 salaaming chapar-jee presented himself with a low 
 obeisance and served the eggs scrambled in the 
 molasses!" . 
 
 SHRIMP The true shrimp is much smaller than 
 the prawn, which is called shrimp in the United 
 States, and therefore not so suitable for cooking 
 purposes, hut is tenderer and of finer flavor and 
 hence better as a relish for breakfast or tea. It is 
 of a reddish brown color after boiling, the prawn a 
 light pink. SHRIMPS FRIED IN THEIR SHELLS 
 Are very delicious; like whitebait, but richer. 
 Should any epicurean reader desire to try this dish, 
 he should fry the shrimps, as they come from the 
 sea, not as they are sold by the fishmonger, these 
 being already boiled in salt water. SHRIMPS BOILED 
 "Anent those tasty hors d'oeuvres, shrimps, it 
 may be well to note that their flavor is immensely 
 improved by adding 2 or 3 glasses of sherry or other 
 white wine to the water in which they are boiled." 
 SHRIMP CROQUETTES A novelty; are now intro- 
 duced in the fish course by fashionable caterers. 
 SHRIMP ROLLS Cut some thin slices of bread and 
 butter from a tin loaf, which must be fresh, but not 
 too new, or it will not cut well. Cut off the crust, 
 and on each slice sprinkle a few shrimps, from 
 which the shells have just been taken. Roll up each 
 slice, taking care to keep them just one size, build 
 them up on a napkin, and garnish with little sprigs 
 of parsley. ESSENCE OF SHRIMPS "At the bay 
 shrimps of excellent flavor are caught in abundance, 
 and one resident does quite a trade in potting and 
 converting them into 'essence.' Let those who 
 swear by ' anchovy ' as a fish relish or sauce try 
 _ essence of shrimps, and we fancy they will not for- 
 sake it thereafter.' 
 
 SHRUB Name of a mixture of fruit syrup and 
 spirit. RUM SHRUB A mixture of 2 qts. rum with 
 i qt. lemon syrup. 
 
 SIMNEL CAKES They are raised cakes, the 
 crust of which is made of fine flour and water, with 
 sufficient saffron to give it a deep yellow color, and 
 the interior is filled with the materials of a very rich 
 plum cake, with plenty of candied lemon peel and 
 other good things. They are made up very stiff, 
 tied up in a cloth and boiled for several hours, after 
 which they are brushed over with eggs and then 
 baked. In Shropshire where simnels are an institu- I 
 
 SME 
 
 tion, a curious legend attaches to them. An old 
 couple named Simon and Nelly, so the story goes, 
 used up the remains of the unleavened dough pro- 
 vided for the fasting season, and mixed with it some 
 plum-pudding left from Christmas, and some eggs, 
 and so made a cake for the Easter feast when their 
 children visited them. It is said that the result was 
 so appreciated that "Simon and Nelly Cake" became 
 widely known; but the name was soon curtailed to 
 "Sim Nell." As a presentation -cake nothing is 
 more suitable than the Simnel, as, indeed, may be 
 gathered from the following quaint rhymes in Har- 
 land's "Lancashire Legends." 
 The goode rounde sugarye, 
 Kinge of cakes, a Symnelle 
 It speaks of deareste familye tyes, 
 From friende to friende in Lent it hyes; 
 To all good fellowshippe yt cries, 
 "I'm a righte trewe Symnelle." 
 Long may symbolique symnelle send 
 Friende's everye lovynge wishe to friende, 
 From "Auld Lang Syne," till tyme shall ende 
 The goode olde Symnelle. 
 
 SIPPETS Little pieces of bread for soup. Bread 
 cut in thin slices, then cut in small triangles, and 
 dried or lightly toasted in the oven. Sippet is the 
 English equivalent of crouton, but the latter word is 
 more generally used to designate fried sippets. 
 
 SKATE- A flat and long-tailed fish of the ray 
 family, common and cheap in French and English 
 markets. RATE A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL Skate 
 boiled and served with hot maitre d'hotel sauce. 
 RAIE FRITE Skate cut in fillets breaded and fried. 
 RAIE AU BEURRE NOIR Slices crimped and boilea 
 served with black-butter sauce. RAIE A LA NOI- 
 SETTE Skate filleted and boiled; served in butter 
 sauce with the pounded liver of the skate and tarra- 
 gon vinegar. RAIE AUX FINES HERBES A fricas- 
 see of skate, or white stew with mushrooms, shal- 
 lots, parsley, butter and lemon juice. 
 
 SMELT A small salt-water fish of delicate fla- 
 vor when fresh, and emitting an odor which has 
 been likened to the smell of violets, and, again, to 
 the odor of freshly -cut cucumbers. It loses this 
 perfume in a few hours, and when shipped to west- 
 ern markets as it is in boxes of convenient size, like 
 crates of fruit, it becomes a very commonplace fish 
 by the time it reaches the consumer. SMELTS, TO 
 DRAW They should never be opened, but drawn by 
 the gills and the roe left inside. The heads are left 
 on for most of the styles of cooking. The simplest 
 treatment is the best when the fish are fresh, and 
 they should be merely rolled in flour and fried 
 quickly in a kettle of hot fat. SMELTS A LA BRO- 
 CHETTE Floured, run upon a skewer side by side, 
 head to tail alternately, dropped into hot lard and 
 fried; served on the skewers if silver or plated, 
 otherwise slipped off the skewer on to a hot dish; 
 garnished with parsley and lemons. EPERLANS A 
 LA JUIVE Smelts in Jewish style; egged, breaded, 
 fried in oil; served without sauce. EPERLANS A
 
 442 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 L'ANGLAISE Smelts frieo and served with anchovy 
 sauce. EPEKLANS EN RAGOUT Smelts stewed in 
 white stock with herbs and wine. EPERLANS AC 
 GRATIN Seasoned with dried herbs and dipped in 
 butter, covered with bread-crumbs, sprinkled with 
 wine and melted butter, and baked brown. Btns- 
 SON D'EPERLANS The fish trussed in ring-form, 
 with their tails in their mouths, and fried; built up 
 in the dish, garnished with fried parsley; butter 
 sauce served aside. Smelts are also broiled, plainly, 
 and either broiled or fried are served with tomato 
 sauce or tartar sauce, and also as a garnish with 
 larger fish. BOILED SMELTS Clean, scale, wash, 
 and dry the smelts; boil them in equal quantities of 
 white wine and water, 2 tablespoonfuls of olive-oil, 
 and season with salt, pepper, and % lemon peeled 
 and sliced; when done, dish up covered with the 
 following sauce: Take a tumblerfuls of white wine, 
 a lump of butter mixed with a little flour, salt, pep- 
 per, the juice of I lemon, i head of garlic blanched 
 and pounded, and chopped parsley and chives ; warm 
 in a saucepan and pour over the fish. STEWED 
 SMELTS Place in a china fire-proof dish, pour over 
 them a sauce made with fish or veal stock, chopped 
 onions, capers, and fine herbs, and a little chablis 
 wine; let them cook in the oven till tender, and serve 
 in the same dish. Always cut off the head for this 
 mode of dressing smelts. 
 
 SNAILS The "poor man's oyster" is so appre- 
 ciated by the French that Paris alone consumes some 
 forty-nine tons daily, the best kind coming from Gre- 
 noble or Burgundy. The finest specimens are care- 
 fully reared in an escargotiere, or snail-park, such 
 as the poor Capuchin monks planned in bygone days 
 at Colmar and Weinbach, when they had no money 
 to buy food, and so cultivated snails. But the ma- 
 jority are collected by the vine -dressers in the even- 
 ing from stone heaps, where the snails have assem- 
 bled to enjoy the dew. The creatures are then 
 starved in a dark cellar for two months, and when 
 they have closed up the aperture of their shells, are 
 ready for cooking. According to the true Burgundy 
 method, they are boiled in five or 'six waters, ex- 
 tracted from the shell, dressed with fresh butter and 
 garlic, then replaced in the shell, covered with pars- 
 ley and bread-crumbs, and finally simmered in white 
 wine. "Snail farms" have been introduced in Switz- 
 erland, where many gardens round Davos and Land- 
 guart, in the Orisons, are used for the sole cultiva- 
 tion of that Continental delicacy, escargots de Bour- 
 gogne. A recent authority states that enormous 
 quantities of snails are forwarded annually f romMar - 
 seilles and Genoa to Paris, and that tens of thousands 
 find their way to the markets of Bordeaux, Lyons, 
 Vienna, and Munich. Such is the demand, that many 
 persons now "cultivate" snails for the markets, and 
 find the business a remunerative one. As many as 
 twenty or thirty thousands can be bred in a very 
 small space. A damp and shady nook is selected 
 for the "park," and the prisoners are kept within 
 bounds by the simple contrivance of sawdust and 
 
 SNA 
 
 brambles. This does very well in dry weather, but 
 when it rains, the farmer's wife and children must 
 be constantly on the alert to turn back the run- 
 aways. The Viennese are the greatest snail -eaters 
 in the world. The town of Ulm, on the Danube, is 
 the principal place where snails are fattened for the 
 market, and those which are picked from the straw- 
 berry-beds command the highest prices. Importa- 
 tion of snails for American consumption is said to 
 be steadily increasing every year. Snails are ob- 
 tainable at certain stores and in the French markets 
 of Xew Orleans all times during the winter. The 
 snails have sealed themselves up in their shells for 
 their winter, hybernation, and are exposed for sale in 
 baskets, as dry as beans. ESCARGOTS A LA BOUK- 
 GIGNONNE Suppose they are to be cooked a la 
 Bourgignonne, the shells are carefully washed and 
 laid on one side; parsley, garlic, chives orechalotte, 
 mushroom and butter, are then chopped together 
 into a paste, a little of this is put into the empty 
 shell, and the snail after being washed is restored 
 to its dwelling, and the opening is finally filled up 
 with paste; they are then baked in a dish of white 
 wine for half an hour, with fire above and below 
 them. From this description it will be rightly in- 
 ferred, that to cook snails a la Bourgignonne is no 
 simple matter. SYRUP OF SNAILS A certain cor- 
 dial made with snail-meat (strop d'escargots) is re- 
 commended by medical authorities as an alleviative 
 of pulmonary affections; and SNAIL SOUP (bouillon 
 d' escargots) is a preparation which possesses very 
 strengthening properties. SNAILS RAW ox THE 
 SHELL Sceptics who do not believe in the sto- 
 machic value of the snail will hear with no little 
 disgust that they are sometimes eaten alive by per- 
 sons who profess a great faith in their curative 
 virtues. They first break the shell to extricate the 
 inmate, which is then well washed and swallowed 
 like an oyster. I have never tasted raw snails, and 
 have no special desire to do so, but I have been as- 
 sured by those who have had the courage to try the 
 experiment that the gastronomic sensation is a most 
 agreeable one. SNAILS FOR THE RESTAURANTS 
 The mode of preparing the snails for consumption 
 is very simple, but requires a deal of care and clean- 
 liness. The first thing to do is to scrape off the clay 
 that covers the aperture, then the shells are placed 
 in large vessels containing water, salted and acid- 
 ulated with: vinegar. The object of this is to cause 
 the animal to throw off the slime and impurity with 
 which it is impregnated. After half an hour's 
 soaking the snails are washed in cold water, placed 
 in large wicker-baskets, and plunged into immense 
 coppers containing boiling water, where they are 
 allowed to simmer for five minutes. N'ext, with the 
 aid of a smali two-pronged fork, the snails are re- 
 moved one by one from their shells, thrown into 
 boiling water slightlv salted, garnished with vege- 
 tables and allowed to cook for three-quarters of an 
 hour. The cleaning of the empty shells is an im- 
 portant point. After being well scrubbed and
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 443 
 
 SNA 
 
 washed, they are put to boil for two hours in plenty 
 of water containing soda in the proportion of one 
 ounce for every hundred shells. Finally they are 
 washed again, drained and dried in hot closets. 
 The next process is the refilling of the shells. SNAIL 
 MEAT "People who have tasted periwinkles may 
 easily form an idea as to the nature of the contents 
 of a snail-shell. The substance of one resembles 
 the substance of the other, but the taste differs es- 
 sentially. There is a pleasing and distinctive flavor 
 belonging to the inmate of the tiny sea-shell, whilst 
 the meat of the escargot is entirely tasteless, and 
 would not be so esteemed were it not for the piquant 
 stuffing associated with it. For my own part i can 
 not avow that I am an enthusiastic admirer of 
 escargots, however dressed and served. I certainly 
 eat them without disgust, but also without any 
 particular satisfaction." 
 
 SNAPDRAGON A Christmas game for a fam- 
 ily; raisins in a warm dish are covered with brandy 
 or any spirit that is strong enough to burn; it is set 
 on fire in a darkened room, and the sport consists of 
 picking the raisins out of the fire with the fingers. 
 
 SNIPES Well-known and fairly abundant small 
 game birds; there are three or four varieties; 
 superior to the woodcock. The English and French 
 epicures say snipes must not be drawn, but the 
 intestine and all eaten; fastidious Americans do not 
 agree to this, and the cooks have to make the styles 
 of cooking to suit. BROILED SNIPES Are split 
 down the back, the insides removed, wiped, flat- 
 
 SNIPE BECASSINE. 
 
 tened, broiled and served on toast the same as quails. 
 BECASSINES A LA BROCHE Snipes roasted on a spit 
 or long skewer. They are plucked, the heads 
 skinned, the gizzards taken out, intestine (trail) left 
 in; the head being bent over the long bill is thrust 
 through the flesh of the legs, each bird has a slice 
 of fat bacon on the breast; they are run upon a spit 
 side by side and roasted rare, served on toast with 
 their own drippings and maitre d' hotel butter. BE- 
 CASSINES EN CROUSTADES Shallow cup shapes of 
 fried bread, the insides spread with liver forcemeat, 
 a roasted snipe in each croustade, baked a few min- 
 utes jast before serving. BECASSINES A LA BONNE 
 BOUCHE Snipes filled with a forcemeat of liver 
 pounded with bacon, covered also with forcemeat 
 and baked; served on shapes of fried bread, with 
 truffle sauce. SNIPE PUDDING Is a thoroughly 
 English dish almost unknown to French epicures. 
 
 SOL 
 
 It is, nevertheless, a delicious entree. The snipes 
 are split in halves and seasoned; a brown jam sauce 
 is made with fried onions, mushrooms, flour, wine, 
 and the trails of the birds, strained, poured over the 
 snipes in a deep dish lined with short paste, a paste 
 lid put on, steamed two hours; served hot. BECAS- 
 SINES EN TERRINE A L'IRLANDAISE A cold dish. 
 Snipes cut in halves baked on layers of bacon with 
 butter, with a temporary flour-and- water paste cover 
 over, which is removed when the baking is com- 
 pleted. BOUDIN.DB BHCASSINES A L'EPICURIENNE- 
 French name of the snipe pudding above. (See 
 Woodcock.) 
 
 SNOW CAKE The whitest white cake (except 
 angel cake) made with a large proportion of corn 
 starch, some flour, white of eggs, white butter, 
 sugar and lemon juice. 
 
 SNOW PUDDING-Cold trifle. One of several 
 domestic names applied to Russian jelly. It is clear, 
 uncolored gelatine jelly, whipped while setting on 
 ice and whipped white of eggs added at the same 
 time, making a snow-white spongy jelly when 
 finally set. Served with cold yellow custard as 
 sauce. Also called lemon sponge, lemon snow, 
 floating island, etc. (See Muscovite.) 
 
 SOAP SOFT SOAP To one pound of potash, add 
 three gallons of water. Boil the potash until it 
 is all dissolved. Then add three pounds of any kind 
 of soap-grease the cleaner the better to the lye, 
 and set it to boiling. It usually becomes soap after 
 boiling from one to five hours. Then add nine gal- 
 lons of water, and stir well together. When cool it 
 will be beautiful white soap, if the grease was 
 clean. HARD SOAP Take one pound of potash, 
 dissolve in twelve quarts water in a kettle calcu- 
 lated to make the soap, add to the lye five pounds of 
 grease and boil slowly, add water to the kettle as it 
 boils down. Keep about the same quantity in the 
 kettle until it becomes soap. Then add eight ounces 
 common salt, and boil ten minutes, which will sep- 
 arate the water from the soap. If rosin is wanted, 
 melt that in a separate kettle. Add lye with it un- 
 til it becomes thick, which will take about one quart 
 to a pound of rosin. Then add the rosin to the boil- 
 ing soap before the salt is added. The salt causes 
 the soap to separate from the water and rise upon 
 the top. When cold it can be taken off or dipped 
 into moulds while hot. The above hard soap may 
 be perfumed just before it is cool. When lye is too 
 strong it will not make soap; therefore, if the kettle, 
 while boiling, is not kept about the same quantity, 
 the lye will boil down too strong. 
 
 SOCLE A pedestal, stand, base for an ornamen- 
 tal piece of cooks' work. SUR SUCLE On an orna- 
 mental stand. 
 
 SODA SYRUPS See Syrups. 
 
 SOLE No other fish is named so frequently in 
 English and French menus as the sole and, as a 
 consequence, it is named with great frequency 
 in menus of this side as well, yet there are no soles
 
 444 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SOL 
 
 in American waters, and all that are genuine are 
 the few brought over in ice by the steamers. The 
 flounder and the Nova Scotia fluke have to do duty 
 for the sole on this side in a general way, and other 
 fish are pressed in to furnish the coveted fillets when 
 those are not available. A tourist in California 
 wrote back complaining that all the fillets of soles 
 in San Francisco were cut from halibut. On the 
 other hand we have some of the choicest fish that 
 swim which are quite unknown in European mar- 
 kets, and they scarcely find a place > in our own bills 
 of fare for the odd reason that the majority of the 
 cooks were brought up from childhood on sole, and 
 have not yet learned pompano, or Spanish mackerel, 
 or anything but the flounder substitute. The sole is 
 a flatfish of excellent quality, best adapted to be cut 
 
 CANDY SULTANE SUR SOCLE. 
 
 in thin fillets (boneless bands or strips), and coiled, 
 and cooked in that neat shape. FILET DE SOLE A LA 
 MARGUERY "As Villemessant, the founder of the 
 Figaro, used to say, one can always tell if a man is 
 ^.gourmet by listening to what he orders in ea^h 
 particular restaurant, for every restaurant here has 
 its special dish, on the preparation of which, to a 
 certain degree, its reputation depends. The Restau- 
 rant da Gymnast, or Cafe Afarguery, for instance, 
 is celebrated for its filet de sole a la Marguery, the 
 iish being prepared with a delicious sauce made of 
 mussels, shrimps, and white wine. The recipe for 
 the famous sole Marguery appears to be much 
 the same as for first-class sole Normande. Boil sole 
 in chablis, take out fish and remove bone, dividing 
 meat into four fillets. Atld more wine to that in 
 
 SOR 
 
 which fish was cooked, and make a ragout of shrimp- 
 meat (from the tails), crawfish-meat (idem.), mush- 
 rooms, truffles, mussels, butter, and a good piece of 
 meat-stock. When these ingredients are all thor- 
 oughly cooked, pour the sauce over the fillets of sole, 
 and stand in the oven for some minutes. Garnish 
 the dish with fried white-bait, and serve. The 
 above recipe was given me by a cordon bleu 
 who lives in the house. SOLE A LA NOR- 
 MANDE To prepare this dish in perfection, 
 it is imperatively necessary that the fish should 
 be a big one, and that the flesh should be 
 entirely separated from the bones. The oval silver 
 dish, moreover, on which this delicacy is usually 
 served, should be well buttered and cunningly 
 powdered with finely minced and scrupulously 
 blanched onions. Before being cooked, the sole 
 should be seasoned with pepper and salt, and ju- 
 diciously moistened with white wine; and while the 
 cooking is in process the sauce should be a-making 
 a "maigre allemande," or white sauce, of which 
 the stock is the water in which mussels have been 
 boiled. The garnishing comprises these same mus- 
 sels, together with oysters, champignons, fried 
 smelts, and fried sippets of bread. Just for five 
 
 minutes before serving must the sole be popped into 
 a moderately heated oven; but the delicate white of 
 the allemande sauce must not be suffered to brown. 
 In nineteen French restaurants out of twenty there 
 is served with the sole an ."allemande grasse" 
 such a vulgar sauce, indeed, as is poured over a 
 fricassee of fowl or a dish of boiled sheep's trotters; 
 but a real " Normande " should have essence of 
 fish and not meat, for its fundamental motive. FIL- 
 LETS OF SOLES Make a nice breakfast dish served 
 with tomato sauce. Dip each fillet in batter, see 
 that they are well covered with this, and fry in boil- 
 ing fat until they are nicely browned. Serve in the 
 center of a dish, and pour the sauce round. SOLES 
 A LA PARISIENNE Scrape and clean out your soles, 
 cut off the heads and tails, and toss in a sautepan 
 with sufficient fresh butter to cover them; sprinkle 
 with chopped parsley, chives, salt and pepper; turn 
 the fish, and, when cooked, dish up, covered with 
 Italian sauce. FILLETS OF SOLE A LA JOINVILLE 
 Toss the fillets in a saucepan with butter. When 
 done, place round a dish, and fill the center with 
 boiled shrimps and minced truffles. Cover with 
 German sauce, to which you have added a little 
 shrimp butter. 
 
 SOLE (Fr.) Sole; same as in English. 
 
 SORBET (Fr.) Frozen punch.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 445 
 
 SOR 
 
 SOIIBETIERE (Fr.) A freezing box in which 
 sorbets and other ices are congealed. 
 
 SORREL A sort of sour spinach; a weed with 
 acid juices, used as greens in soups, in sauces in the 
 form of a puree, and in combination with spinach. 
 Not the same as the low-growing, clover-leaved, 
 sour weed called sheep-sorrel in the prairie states^ 
 Sorrel grows tall amongst the grass. "The sorrel 
 again, whose crimson sepals flaunt themselves 
 amongst our meadow herbage, is largely utilized in 
 the preparation of French salads. Sorrel, prepared 
 for table exactly like spinach, is an excellent accom- 
 paniment to sweetbread, fried calves' brains, or any 
 similar dish. Sorrel makes an excellent sauce for 
 veal, pork, or winter geese. It should, like spinach, 
 be put in a sauce-pan without water, except that 
 which hangs to its leaves in washing. It should be 
 boiled slowly, and then be beaten up with cream, 
 butter and the yolks of eggs." 
 
 SOUFFLE A puff; something light. There are 
 souffles of almost anything eatable. Whatever rises 
 to an unusual degree is a souffle; the usual means is 
 to mix whipped white of eggs into a pasty prepara- 
 tion, whether of meats or sweets, just before putting 
 it into the oven or steamer. (See Monte Sana Pud- 
 ding.) 
 
 SOUPS SAID ABOCT SOUPS " 'C'esl la soupe,' 
 says one of the best of proverbs, 'yui fait le soldo t.' 
 ('It is the soup that makes the soldier.') Excellent 
 as our troops are in the field, there cannot be a more 
 unquestionable fact, than their immense inferiority 
 to the French in the business of cookery. The En- 
 glish soldier lays his piece of ration beef at once on 
 the coals, by which means the one and the better 
 half is lost, and the other burnt to a cinder. Whereas 
 six French troopers fling their messes into one com- 
 mon pot, and extract a delicious soup ten times more 
 nutritious than the simple rotican ever be." "Du- 
 mas, the elder, was excessively fond of onion-and- 
 cabbaffe soup, which he made himself. Soup con- 
 tains the greatest amount of nourishment that can 
 be taken with the least exertion." "Scotch broth is 
 to Scotland \vhntpot-au-feu is to France, made with 
 mutton instead of beef, and involves an important 
 question in household economy." A writer of New 
 York says: "Nearly every hotel in this city now 
 uses the individual soup tureen, and it is a fact to be 
 recorded with pleasure. The day has happily gone 
 by when plates of cold soup were handed round the 
 table." FOR BISQUE SOUPS See Bisqut. FOR 
 CLEAR SOUPS See Consommes. FOR GAKBURE 
 SOUPS See Garbure. Various special soups may 
 be found described under the several letters, such 
 as Turtle, Terrapin, Conger, Chowders, Game 
 Sonpf, etc., and in national cookery articles. 
 
 SOUPS OF BARLEY SCOTCH BROTH See 
 Scottish Cookery. CREAM OF BARLEY A LA JARDI- 
 NIERI: Cream-puree of barley tinted with spinach 
 green, with vegetables cut size of macaroni with a 
 cohin.n cutter; peas, cauliflower, etc. CREAM OF 
 
 SOU 
 
 BARLEY A LA JOINVILLE Cream-puree tinted pink 
 with crayfish -butter or lobster-coral, with pieces' of 
 sweetbreads and crayfish-tails. CREAM OF BARLEY 
 A LA VIENNOISE White cream of barley with fried 
 croutons. POTAGE A LA CREME D'ORGE Cream of 
 barley. 
 
 SOUPS OF BEEF ALAMODE BEEF SOUP See 
 Alamode. BEEF SOUP A L'ANGLAiSE-Smooth brown 
 soup of stock thickened with roux, lean beef cut in 
 squares, celery, turnips, carrots likewise. BEEF 
 BROTH WITH RICE Beef stock highly seasoned, 
 with rice cooked separately and added. Ox PALATE 
 SOUP A L'ANGLAISE Palates peeled, boiled, and 
 pressed, cut in squares, put in clear soup with egg- 
 quenelles and Madeira wine; lemon aside. Ox PAL- 
 ATE SOUP THICK Brown like beef-soup; pressed 
 palates cut in dice; lemon slices, sherry, parsley. 
 Ox CHEEK SOUP A LA NELSON Stock made of ox- 
 cheeks, beef, ham, vegetables; thick, brown, with 
 wine, and the meat cut in squares. Ox TAIL SOUP- 
 Is made either clear or thick; tails in round slices 
 stewed 2 or 3 hours; beef stock; carrots and turnips 
 in slices like the tails; all served in the soup; little 
 sherry and lemon. Ox TAIL SOUP A I.'ARNOLD 
 The preceding thick, brown, with barley. POTAGE 
 AUX QUEUES DE BCEUF Ox-tail soup. 
 
 SOUPS OF CABBAGE CABBAGE SOUP A LA 
 CHAMBERY Savoy cabbage sliced and half-fried; 
 boiled in salt-pork stock; fried forcemeat -balls of 
 beef served in it. PUREE OF CABBAGE A LA PIE- 
 MONTAISE Cabbage passed through a seive, with 
 broth thickened, cream, croutons. CABBAGE SOUP 
 A LA LANGUEDOCIENNE -Raviolis made of fried 
 cabbage and onion, in potato soup with cheese, yolks, 
 etc. CABBAGE SOUP A LA RENTIERS Stock with 
 salt pork, cabbage, sausages, vegetables, sippets of 
 bread; all served in the soup. CABBAGE SOUP A LA 
 ROUENNAISE Sliced cabbage half-fried, stewed in 
 stock, with sippets of bread. CABBAGE SOUP WITH 
 PORK- Assorted vegetables, potatoes, cabbage, pork; 
 all stewed together in stock. CABBAGE SOUP WITH 
 RICE Sliced and fried cabbage and onion in salt- 
 pork stock with rice. GREEN CABBAGE AND POTATO 
 SOUP Stewed summer-cabbage and potatoes to- 
 gether in stock. 
 
 SOUPS OF CHICKEN CHICKEN A LA CUIF- 
 FONADE Seasoned clear chicken broth, pieces of 
 chicken in it previously half -fried; shred lettuce, 
 sorrel, chervil added. CHICKEN' A LA KITCIIENEK 
 Broth, thickened white roux; roast chickens, selected 
 meat saved, skin and trimmings boiled in broth. 
 CHICKEN A LA KETTNER Roast chickens 
 cut up, skin and trimmings in broth, thickened 
 white roux, chicken meat, rice, and cream. 
 CHICKEN A LA MALMAISON White soup contain- 
 ing two colors of chicken quenelles, yellow and 
 green, with small carrots, cauliflower, yolks, 
 cream. CHICKEN A LA MESSINOISE White puree 
 of chicken and almonds with quenelles of chicken 
 and tomato. CHICKEN A LA PuixctssE Cream-
 
 446 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SOU 
 
 colored, thick, with stuffed braised lettuce aside. 
 CHICKEN A LA SoNTAG-Pieces of chicken half -fried 
 with ham in butter, along- with leeks and rice in 
 thickened broth. CHICKEN A LA ST. GEORGE 
 Cream -colored with barley, chicken meat and fried 
 forcemeat balls. CHICKEN A L'ANGLAisE-Seasoned 
 chicken stock thickened, with pieces of chicken. 
 CHICKEN WITH OKRA Pieces chicken half-fried 
 with onions, stock, tomatoes, okra, rice. CHICKEN 
 WITH RICE Pieces chicken half fried, in stock with 
 rice, plain. CHICKEN WITH TOMATO Pieces fried 
 with ham and onions, stock, tomato pure. CHICKEN- 
 BROTH A LA BRITANNIA Prmtanier vegetables and 
 " royal " chicken custards in broth. CHICKEN A LA 
 CiiEYAi-iERE A garbure of cream -soaked and fried 
 rolls served aside with broth. CHICKEN A LA CHOR- 
 SEUIL Chicken stocks with "royal " chicken cus- 
 tards and asparagus tops. CHICKEN A LA NICOISE- 
 Assorted vegetables including cabbage cut in dice, 
 rice and chicken meat in broth. CHICKEN A LA PA- 
 LESTINE With Jerusalem artichokes cut small and 
 chicken. CHICKEN A LA VIENNOISE Consomme 
 with barley, chicken meat, chervil. CHICKEN WITH 
 POACHED EGGS Broth with asparagus tops and 
 poached egg in each plate. PUREE DE VOLAILLE 
 A LA BEARNAISE Puree of chicken and almonds, 
 boiling cream, squares of chicken meat, fried rings 
 of bread. PUREE DE VOLAILLE A LA JUSSIENNE 
 Puree of chicken and bread panada in thickened 
 broth with yolks and fried crusts. PUREE DE VO- 
 LAILLE A LA MILESIENNE Tinted green; puree of 
 chicken with pounded pistachios. PUREE DE VO- 
 LAILLE A LA PERiGORD-Puree of chicken, rice and 
 almonds, with "royal " custards containing purde of 
 truffles. PUREE DE VOLAILLE A LA REiNE-Pounded 
 chicken and rice in stock passed through a 'sieve, 
 cream, butter, croutons. PUREE DE VOLAILLE A LA 
 ST. MANDE Cream-colored with chicken puree, 
 pieces of cooked cucumbers, rice, chervil. PUREE 
 DE VOLAILLE A LA CREME White cream pure 
 with white meat of chicken. 
 
 SOUPS, GIBLET They are either clear or thick. 
 The fleshy part of the gizzards of fowls cut from the 
 gristle; the giblets are fried first, then stewed, and 
 soups varied like beef and ox-tail soups. POTAGE 
 AUX ABATIS D'OiE Giblet soup, goose. 
 
 SOUPS FARINACEOUS TAPIOCA SOUP A LA 
 MONTGLAS Thin tomato soup with tapioca, maca- 
 roni cut short, breast of chicken and red tongue in 
 shreds. TAPIOCA AU CONSOMME Clear soup with 
 tapioca. TAPIOCA AND TOMATO Thin tomato soup 
 with tapioca. TAPIOCA WITH RICE Clear soup 
 with tapioca and rice. SAGO SOUPS Same varia- 
 tions as tapioca. POTAGE AU SAGOU Sago soup. 
 POTACE A LA JENNY LIND Sago cream soup, yel- 
 low with thickening of yolks. POTAGE A LA RE- 
 CAMIER Wash % Ib. best pearl sago thoroughly, 
 then stew it quite tender and very thick in water or 
 broth (it will require nearly a quart of liquid, which 
 should be poured on to it cold and very gradually 
 heated), then mix with a pint of boiling cream or 
 
 SOU 
 
 milk, and the yolks of four eggs, and mingle the 
 whole carefully with two quarts of stiong veal or 
 beef stock, which should be kept always boiling. 
 Serve immediately. CREAM OK SEMOLINA Fa- 
 rina cream soup finished with yolks, cream, butter, 
 and light croutons. POTAGE SEMOLINA A LA PIE- 
 MONTAISE Game broth with farina and quenelles 
 of farina, butter and cheese. POTAGE SEMOLINA A 
 LA VENITIENNE Farina cream soup light yellow 
 with yolks, wine, lemon juice, Parmesan cheese and 
 fillets of partridges. POTAGE BARAQUINE White 
 tapioca soup with strips of chicken and truffles. 
 POTAGE A LA GOUFFE Brown tapioca soup with 
 squares of chicken breast, tongue and truffles. PO- 
 TAGE A LA CREME DE TAPIOCA Tapioca cream 
 soup. 
 
 SOUPS OF FISH FISH SOUP A LA BRABAN- 
 CONNE Strong fish stock with Rhine wine and to- 
 mato pur^e added ; "royal" custards and collops of 
 fish. FISH SOUP A LA BATELIERE Thickened fish 
 stock with sherry, oysters, scallops, lobster meat, 
 fish quenelles, fried crusts. FISH SOUP A LA Du- 
 CLAIR Clarified fish broth with white fillets of fish 
 and sippets of dried bread. FISH SOUP A LA RUSSE 
 Clarified fish broth, shredded vegetables, fillets of 
 fish, fried crusts. POTAGE A LA BAGRATioN-Thick- 
 ened broth of vegetables and fish, yolks, cream, 
 lemon juice, fish quenelles, oysters, lobster meat, 
 duchesse crusts. POTAGE A LA CHANOINESSE 
 Pink-colored, with crayfish butter, soft roes of fish, 
 mushrooms, oysters, crayfish tails. STURGEON 
 SOUP A LA SUEDOISE Strong fish stock with white 
 wine, brown roux, stewed slices of sturgeon and 
 mussels. PIKE SOUP A LA CHAMPI.AIN Fish made 
 into forcemeat balls, fried. Fish stock cream-col- 
 ored, with Catawba, mussel liquor, the forcemeat 
 balls, fried bread. PICKEREL SOUP A LA MALMES- 
 BURY Fillets in small squares cooked in butter and 
 wine. Stock thickened, cream -colored, with mus- 
 sels, lobster meat and the fillets. FLOUNDER SOUP 
 Thickened fish stock with roux, Catawba, scol- 
 lops, oysters, and fillets of flounder cut to size of 
 ovsters ; croutons. EEL SOUP AMERICAN STYLE 
 Pieces of eels half fried in butter, flour, fish stock, 
 tomatoes, Catawba, croutons. EEL SOUP A LA 
 HARTFORD Cream -colored fricassee of eels with 
 scollops and croutons. EEL SOUP A LA ST. LAW- 
 RENCE Pieces of eels simmered in butter and wine. 
 Fish stock with lobster, fried vegetables and aro- 
 matics, thickened, creamy. Parsley, lobster meat, 
 eels added. POTAGE A L'ANGUILLE Eel soup. 
 POTAGE A LA PROVENCALS - Bouillabaisse. PO- 
 TAGE A LA POISSONIERE White soup with pieces of 
 salmon and sole, oysters and mussels. POTAGE AUX 
 FILETS DE SOLES Fish broth thickened, wine, 
 yolks, and fillets of soles. POTAGE AUX HUITRES 
 Oyster soup. POTAGE DE HOMARD Lobster soup. 
 POTAGE A LA BISQUE D'ECRIVISSES Bisque of 
 crayfish. 
 
 SOUPS OF GAME See also Bisques, Hare, 
 Game, Partridge. GAME SOUP A LA CORCOISE
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 447 
 
 SOU 
 
 A soup of partridges, rabbit, salt pork, ham, smoked 
 sausages, soup beef, dried mushrooms, lentils, and 
 vegetables. The meats sliced and ssrved in the 
 strained soup. BISQUE OF GROUSE Game broth 
 with several kinds of meat, etc., thickened with 
 bread panada, wine, fillets of grouse in fine shreds 
 "The grouse soup at Hamilton Palace used to be 
 made on the principle of a young grouse to each of 
 the party, in addition to six or seven brace stewed 
 down for stock." PUREE OF DUCK A LA NORFOLK 
 Mallards roasted, then stewed, meat pounded 
 through a sieve; game broth, panada to thicken, 
 port wine, croutons. DUCK SOUP A LA HONGKOISE 
 Game soup containing puree of vegetables and 
 ham, with barley and the ducks in pieces. RABBIT 
 SOUP A LA POLONAISE Light color. Rabbit stock 
 with ham and vegetables thickened with roux and 
 yolks; wine, fillets of rabbits; rice aside. HARE 
 SOUP See Hare. PUREE DE GIBIER Puree of 
 game. PUREE DE LAPEREAUX Puree of rabbit. 
 PUREE DE GROUSES Puree of grouse. POTAGE 
 AUX GROUSES Grouse soup. POTAGE AUX FAI- 
 SANS Pheasant soup. POTAGE AUX PERDREAUX 
 Partridge soup. POTAGE A LA LIEVRE Hare soup. 
 POTAGE A LA VENAISON Venison soup. POTAGE 
 A LA CHASSEUR Game soup with pieces of the 
 game, onions, potatoes and mushrooms. PIGEON 
 SOUP A LA FABERT Pigeons cut up and fried with 
 ham and butter; flour, broth, sherry, julienne, vege- 
 tables and the pigeon pieces served in it. PIGEON 
 SOUP BELGIEN STYLE The preceding with carrots 
 and green peas. 
 
 SOUPS OF ITALIAN PASTES MACARONI 
 Soup-Boiled macaroni cut short in beef broth. MA- 
 CARONI A LA CALABRAISE A dish of macaroni and 
 cheese, brown tomato sauce, garlic, butter, etc., 
 served aside with beef broth. MACARONI A LA 
 CANINO Dish of macaroni and cheese, puree of 
 fowl and gravy in alternate layers served aside with 
 broth. MACARONI A LA TOSCANE Dish of maca- 
 roni and cheese, tomatoes, sliced mushrooms and 
 fried egg plant, and gravy in alternate layers served 
 aside with broth. MACARONI A LA VILLAGEOISE 
 Broth with inch lengths of macaroni and fried leeks. 
 MACARONI AND TOMATO Inch lengths in tomato 
 .soup, cheese aside. VERMICELLI A LA GRECQUE 
 Thickenad, cream-colored with yolks, cream, lemon 
 juice, vermicelli. VERMICELLI A LA NAVARRAISE 
 Brown, thickened with tomato puree and vermicelli. 
 VERMICELLI A LA PLUCHE Clear, with shreds of 
 green along with the vermicelli. VERMICELLI A 
 LA WINDSOR Slightly thickened consomme with 
 chicken quenelles and vermicelli. VERMICELLE AU 
 MAIGRE Without meat; vermicelli in salted water, 
 butter, yolks, cream. VERMICELLE A L'OSEILLE 
 Chicken broth, thickened, yolks, cream, stewed sor- 
 rel and vermicelli. VERMICELLE AuToMATE-Con- 
 bomme mingled with tomato puree and vermicelli; 
 grated Parmesan aside. VERMICELLI PLAix-Short 
 cui in beef broth. LASAGNES SOUP Lasagnes paste 
 bo:Jd, c-j'shor 1 in brc-'h, conso.i"n6, or in any soup, 
 
 SOU 
 
 same as macaroni. NOUILLES In any way same as 
 macaroni, vermicelli and fidelini. FIDELINI A LA 
 ROVALE Thickened stock with yolks, cream, fide- 
 lini cut short; grated Parmesan aside. POTAGE 
 SPAGHETTI A LA SICILIENNE A dish of spaghetti 
 in brown tomato sauce with garlic, dried mush- 
 rooms, etc., and hot butter served with beef broth 
 aside. SPAGHETTI A LA TURINOISE Consomme 
 mingled with tomato puree and short-cut spaghetti 
 and quenelles; cheese aside. SPAGHETTI AU PAR- 
 MESAN Spaghetti in clear stock; cheese aside. 
 
 SOUPS OF LAMB AND MUTTON LAMB 
 SOUP A LA PIEMONTAISE Pieces of lamb in squares 
 half fried, flour, stock, vegetables, rice. LAMB SOUP 
 A LA WINCHESTER- White soup with cream, starch, 
 wine, leeks and meat cut small. LAMB SOUP A LA 
 REINE Cut up roast lamb, vegetables and rice in 
 broth. LAMB BROTH WITH BARLEY Barley, meat 
 in dice and vegetables. MUTTON SOUP A, LA COWLEY 
 Brown mutton broth with barley and boiled mut- 
 ton chop in each plate. MUTTON SOUP WITH BAR- 
 LEY Strong mutton broth with barley and meat in 
 squares; green herbs. MUTTON SOUP A LA ROUEN - 
 NAISE Puree of barley with cream, and mutton cut 
 in squares. MUTTON SOUP A LA ViENNOiSE-Force- 
 meat balls of mutton and parsley fried, in barley 
 broth. POTAGE AU MUTTON Mutton broth served 
 with the mutton in it. POTAGE A L'ECOSSAISE 
 Scotch mutton broth. BARLEY BROTH A LA FRAN- 
 CAISE Plain mutton broth with barley and sippets 
 of bread. SHEEP'S TAIL SOUP A L'ARMENIENNE . 
 Tails cut in lengths, parboiled, fried with vegeta- 
 bles, curry, flour, stock. Pieces in the soup, rice 
 aside. POTAGE AUX QUEUES D'AGNEAU Lamb's 
 tail soup. 
 
 SOUPS OF ONIONS ONION SOUP A LA PLES- 
 
 SY Onions half fried, in slightly thickened chicken 
 stock, with sippets of bread. ONION SOUP WITH 
 CHEESE Onion soup thick poured on bread spread 
 with cheese. ONION SOUP WITH EGGS Onion soup 
 yellow with yolks and milk. SOUP OF SMALL 
 ONIONS A LA CHEVREUSE Very small onions and 
 peas in chicken broth. PUREE OF ONIONS A LA 
 BRETONNE Brown soup with puree of onions and 
 fried crusts. PUREE OF ONIONS A LA DIEPPOISE 
 A fish and onion soup, white, with fish quenelles. 
 PUREE OF ONIONS A LA NANTAISE Brown veal 
 stock with puree of fried onions; croutons. PUREE 
 OF ONIONS A LA NASSAU- White cream of Bermuda 
 onions; butter, sugar, thickened broth, cream, crou- 
 tons, 
 
 SOUPS OF PEAS AND BEANS GREEN PEA 
 SOUP A LA DUCHESSE Dry green peas boiled with 
 ham and herbs, rubbed through a seive; the liquor 
 added, and croutons. GREEN PEA SOUP A LA MARLY 
 Green peas in chicken broth, with shreds of let- 
 tuce and chervil. GREEN PEA A LA PRINT ANIERE- 
 Puree of peas with asparagus tops, string beans cut 
 small, green herbs, sugar, butter, etc. GREEN PEA 
 A LA ST. CLOUD Green peas boiled with salt pork
 
 448 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SOU 
 
 and herbs in veal stock, skimmed; fried crusts. 
 GREEN PEA A LA ST. GERMAIN- Green purge of peas 
 with "royal" custards composed of purge and eggs 
 cooked in small moulds. GREEN PEA SOUP WITH 
 RICE Purge soup with boiled rice. PEA SOUP A LA 
 NAPIER Peas boiled with salt pork, passed through 
 a seive, the pork cut in dice and fried, served in the 
 soup with cut mint PEA SOUP A LA VILLAGEOISE- 
 Peas and shred vegetables in beef stock, with sip- 
 pets of bread. PEA AND BRUNOISE Soup-Brunoise 
 with purge of peas and sippets of bread. PEA AND 
 JULIENNE SOUP Purge of peas with julienne vege- 
 tables. SPLIT-PEA SOUP Split-peas boiled with 
 salt pork, passed through a seive, in stock slightly 
 thickened; fried croutons. PUREE OF LENTILS 
 Lentils boiled with salt pork, and same as peas and 
 beans. PUREE OF STRING-BEANS Green soup; 
 beans cooked in salted water, passed through seive, 
 in stock thickened with roux, sugar, butter, boiling 
 cream, colo'ring, croutons. PUREE OF STRING - 
 BEANS A LA SAVART Whole peas and short-cut 
 string-beans added to the preceding. BEAN SOUP 
 White navy beans boiled, passed through seive, in 
 slightly thickened stock of salt pork, etc. ; milk or 
 cream; croutons. PUREE OF LIMA BEANS Beans 
 and various vegetables boiled and purge together; 
 white stock; croutons. PUREE OF FRESH BEANS 
 Green shelled beans boiled with salt pork and on- 
 ions, beans and onions through a seive, together, in 
 thickened broth; croutons. 
 
 SOUPS OF POTATOES PUREE OF POTATOES 
 A LA FAUBONNE-Potatoes cooked with ham, pounded 
 through a seive in beef stock with yolks, butter, and 
 julienne vegetables. PUREE A LA JACKSON Purge 
 with boiling cream, little sugar, butter, croutons. 
 PUREE A LA PARMENTIER Cream of potatoes with 
 cnervil and sorrel. "The potage Parmentier is pre- 
 pared as follows: Peel a dozen potatoes, slice and 
 put them in cold water. Slice two onions, a head of 
 celery, and the white part of two leeks. Put these 
 ingredients in a stewpan with four ounces of butter 
 and the sliced potatoes. Fry the whole for ten min- 
 utes, and then moisten with two quarts of white 
 broth. Add three cloves, some salt, a bunch of pars- 
 ley, and let simmer until the vegetables are done; 
 then rub through a fine seive or tammy. Return the 
 purge into a stewpan; set it on the fire to boil slowly, 
 adding a little broth if the soup is found too thick. 
 Let it simmer for twenty minutes, taking off the 
 scum as it rises. When ready to serve, add a liaison 
 of four yolks of eggs, diluted with half a pint of 
 cream, and four ounces of butter, divided into small 
 pieces. Throw in the soup a little finely-chopped and 
 blanched chervil, and send to table separately some 
 small fried croutons." PUREE OF POTATOES A LA 
 TURENNE Potatoes baked and mashed, milk, broth, 
 fried salt-pork squares and fried sorrel. "GooD 
 WOMAN'S SOUP" Now a first-class recipe for that 
 eminently French soup, a la bonne femme : Puree 
 Pomme a la Bonne Femme Peel two quarts of po- 
 tatoes, mince, and boil in a sufficiency of good 
 
 SOU 
 
 bouillon; pass the purge through a tammy, and pour 
 it into a saucepan, where allow it to boil; add some 
 blanched lettuces and a handful of minced sorrel, al- 
 lowing the boiling to continue until the lettuces are 
 cooked. Prepare a garnish of vegetables aspar- 
 agus-tops, cauliflowers, green peas, a handful of 
 Brussels sprouts cooked in salt and water, strained 
 after cooking, and mixed with butter. At moment 
 of serving add the vegetables to the purge, and bind 
 with five yolks mixed with a pint of sweet cream 
 and a pinch of nutmeg. Do not allow the soup to 
 boil after adding the cream." POTATO SOUP W{TH 
 LEEKS Fried leeks in shreds stewed with cut pota- 
 toes in stock; sippets of bread. 
 
 SOUPS OF RICE Riz A LA FLAMANDE 
 Thickened stock with rice and assorted vegetables, 
 including Brussels sprouts or cabbage cut small. 
 Riz A L'INDIENNE Curry soup with rice and 
 pieces of chicken. Riz A LA MAINTEXON Cream - 
 colored with yolks and cream, and sliced breast of 
 chicken. Riz A LA PAYSANNE Vegetable soup 
 with rice. Riz A LA SULTANE Stock of mutton, 
 chicken, ham and vegetables strained; colored with 
 saffron, yolks, cream; chicken meat and sultana 
 raisins. Riz A LA TURQUE Little timbales of but 
 tered rice, yellow with saffron, served aside with 
 beef broth. Riz AUX POINTES Clear soup with 
 rice and asparagus tops. Riz AU KARI Yellow, 
 slightly thickened, curry and roux, cooked rice 
 added. Riz AU JULIENNE Julienne soup with 
 rice. Riz AU TAPIOCA Cooked rice added to tapi- 
 oca clear soup. Riz AU TOMATE Consommg, to- 
 mato purge and rice mixed. RISOTTO A LA PIE- 
 MONTAISE See Italian. CREAM OF RICE A LA 
 BUFFON Puree of rice with cream, chicken broth, 
 etc., and small quenelles and asparagus tops. 
 CREAM OF RICE A LA CAVOUR Cream purge with 
 short macaroni and "royal" custards made with 
 almond milk. CREAM OF RICE A LA MEDICIS 
 Very small fried rice croquettes and grated Parme- 
 san in cream of rice. CREAM OF RICE A LA PRIX- 
 CESSE Cream purge with asparagus tops. CREAM 
 OF RICE A LA ST. SEVER With lozenge shapes 
 of bread fried in butter. RICE PILAF See Oriental 
 Cookery. 
 
 SOUPS OF SHELL-FISHSOFT CLAM SOUP 
 Clams opened and hard part removed, boiled two 
 minutes in broth, add boiling milk and white sauce 
 or thickening, butter, mace, salt, pepper, crackers. 
 CLAM SOUP, AMERICAN STYLE Same as oyster 
 soups; in milk with butter and white sauce or thick- 
 ening, parsley, crackers. CLAM CHOWDER See 
 Chotvder. OYSTER SOUP, WHITE Milk, white 
 sauce or thickening, oyster liquor, oysters soft 
 cooked, butter, crackers, seasonings. "Put4doz. 
 ovsters with their liquor into a stewpan, and when 
 upon the point of boiling drain them upon a seive, 
 catching the liquor in a basin. Put the oysters into 
 a soup tureen, taking off the beards to throw into 
 the liquor, and then melt % Ib. butter in another 
 stewpan on the fire, to which add 4 oz. Hour; stir
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 449 
 
 SOU 
 
 slowly, keeping it quite white, over a slow fire; let 
 it become cool, then add the liquor with the beards, 
 2 qts. stock and i qt. milk. Season with salt, ca- 
 yenne, 5 peppercorns, half a blade of mace, i des- 
 sertspoonful of anchovy and i tablespoonful of Har- 
 vey sauce, stirring till boiling. Boil quickly at the 
 last, then skim well, add i gill of cream, strain 
 through a sieve over the oysters, and serve." Ovs- 
 STERS AUX FINES HERBES Fish broth and oyster 
 liquor thickened, half-fried shallots, mushrooms, 
 parsley and oysters in it, and white wine; no milk. 
 OYSTER SOUP WITH OKRA Fried onions and ham, 
 in butter, tomatoes, oyster liquor, green pepper, 
 okra in thin slices, oysters added last; an oyster 
 gumbo. CRAYFISH Soups-See Bisques. MUSSEL 
 SOUP See Mussels. LOBSTER SOUP A L'INDIENNE 
 A lobster curry soup; salt pork, ham and vege 
 tables fried; curry, flour and stock added; lobsters 
 boiied and pounded (shells and all) with yolks and 
 cream, and strained through a seive; lobster meat 
 and rice in the soup. LOBSTER SOUP A LA MARI- 
 NIERE Pink-colored; fish broth thickened, contain- 
 ing lobster butter, lobster meat, clams, small onions, 
 sherry. PUREE OF LOBSTER WITH RICE See 
 Bisques. 
 
 SOUPS OF TURNIPS TURNIP PUREE SOUP 
 Use young white garden turnips. Peel, boil two 
 minutes, then pour off the water; slice the turnips 
 and allow i Ib. of the vegetables to a pint of sepa- 
 rated milk; 12 whole white peppercorns, one blade 
 of mace. Stew till the turnips are tender, then puree 
 through a steel wire sieve; add also a couple of bot- 
 tled or canned button mushrooms, % oz - of powdered 
 sugar, and salt to taste. Put the purge into a large 
 ste wpan, add good white stock to make it of a proper 
 consistence; stir over the fire till it is quite thick 
 and hot, beat in % oz. of butter to the pint of soup, 
 or add cream to give it a soft, mellow taste; pour 
 into a hot tureen, and serve. PUREE OF TURNIPS 
 AND RICE The two pounded and strained together 
 in veal stock and milk, butter, croutons. PUREE OK 
 TURNIPS A LA SAVOISIENNE Turnips fried first, 
 flour, stock, tomatoes; through a sieve; served with 
 grisini bread. PUREE OF TURNIPS WITH SAGO, 
 rice or tapioca can be varied at will. PUREE OF 
 TURNIPS A LA FRENEUSE A cream of turnips with 
 bulls of turnips scooped out, and sippets of bread. 
 CREAM OF TURNIPS A LA CONDE Is a puree of 
 beans with turnip puree made into "royal " custards 
 cut in squares in it instead of croutons. 
 
 SOUPS OF VEAL VEAL SOUP A L'INDIENNE- 
 A veal curry or mulligatawny, pieces of meat in the 
 soup, and rice. VEAL SOUP A LA POISSY White, 
 creamy thickened veal stock with vermicelli. VEAL 
 SOUP WITH BARLEY Plain veal broth with barley. 
 VEAL AND RICE A L'ANGLAISE Veal broth with 
 gelatinous parts of veal sliced in it and rice. VEAL 
 AND TOMATO WITH RICE Fried pieces of veal 
 and onion in butter, stock, tomatoes, etc., and rice. 
 VEAL SOUP A LA DAUPHIN E " Royal " custards 
 cut round in veal broth with asparagus tops and 
 
 SOU 
 
 tarragon leaves sliced. VEAL BROTH WITH CELERY 
 Cooked white celery in inch lengths in the broth. 
 VEAL SOUP WITH SORREL Cream broth with pu- 
 rge of sorrel and sippets of bread. 
 
 SOUPS OF CALF'S HEAD CALF'S HEAD 
 SOUP A LA DUCHESSE White soup with calfs" head 
 cut in squares, pieces of macaroni and small que- 
 nelles. CALF'S HEAD SOUP A LA BRIGHTON Veal 
 broth with vegetables and aromatics, thickened, 
 sherry, head cut in squares, small balls of veal sau- 
 sage meat, lemon slices. MOCK TURTLE A LA 
 FRANCAISE The pressed calf's head cut in dice, 
 espagnole, tomato sauce and beef broth mingled, 
 sherry, chopped yolks, parsley, lemon. MOCK TUR- 
 TLE A L'ANGLAISE It is made either clear or thick, 
 the stock as for espagnole without tomatoes, calf's 
 head cut in squares, sherry, port, egg quenelles, 
 lemon. CALF'S FOOT SOUP A L'ANGLAISE Feet 
 boned, pressed, cut in dice when cold. Soup made 
 of the stock of the feet and other meats and vege- 
 tables the same as with calf's head; meat squares in 
 the soup, chopped yolks and lemon slices. CALF'S 
 FOOT A LA DUMAS Aromatic calf's foot and veal 
 stock with marsala, thickened, feet cut in dice, le- 
 mon slices aside. CALF'S TAIL SOUP Light color, 
 thickened, Rhine wine, pieces of tail and parsley. 
 POTAGE TETE DE VEAU Calf's head soup. Po- 
 
 TAGE A LA FAUSSE TORTUE-Mock turtle SOUp. Po- 
 
 TAGE QUEUES DE VEAU Calf's tail soup. POTAGE 
 AUX PIEDS DE VEAU Calf's foot soup. POTAGE A 
 LA COMTESSE Sweetbreads. 
 
 SOUPS OF MIXED VEGETABLES VEGE- 
 TABLE SOUP A LA BOURGEOISE Stock with salt pork 
 and cabbage and various vegetables, all sliced and 
 served in the soup with sliced bread. VEGETABLE 
 SOUP A LA HOLLANDAISE Balls scooped outof sev- 
 eral colors of vegetables and peas, beans, cauli- 
 flower; cream soup with the cooked vegetables added. 
 VEGETABLE A LA POLONAISE Polish soup of stock, 
 bacon, fowl, smoked sausage, cabbage, onions ; thick- 
 ened ; all sliced in it to serve. POLISH SOUPS " In 
 the first place there is Bigos, dear to the compatriots 
 of Dombrowski as that general's name itself, a 
 kind of stew prepared with pork sausages, sauer- 
 kraut, ham and bacon, wrapped tightly in a napkin 
 and boiled for 2 hours. Their favorite soup is called 
 Barszoz, which I have often eaten at Boncrelle's 
 establishment in the Avenue de Cracovie, at War- 
 saw, and which I can conscientiously recommend. 
 It is made out of beef -bouillon, in which slices of 
 red beetroot are boiled. Kapusniak, another national 
 soup, is very nasty, but very much liked; it is made 
 of sauerkraut and bacon boiled in beef-soup. Ucha 
 is a Russian soup, but, nevertheless, much appreci- 
 ated in the oppressed country. A fish-soup it is, pre- 
 pared from sterlets." VEGETABLE A LAFERMIERE- 
 Various vegetables sliced, fried, then boiled in stock; 
 sorrel, chervil, bread. CONSOMME JULIENNE -Veg- 
 etables shredded very fine, half-fried in butter and 
 sugar; clear consomme 1 added. SOUPE JULIENNE A 
 . LA MONTPENSIER Julienne with "royal" custards.
 
 450 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SOU 
 
 SOUPE JULIENNE A LA RUSSE Made with shreds of 
 beets, kohlrabi, knot-celery, mushrooms, red tongue, 
 ham. JULIENNE AUX CEuFS POCHE A soft poached 
 egg in each plate of soup. POTAGE BENOY Differs 
 from julienne in so far that in the former the vege- 
 tables are cut into dice and fried before putting into 
 the soup. CONSOMME BRUNOISE-A!! sorts of vege- 
 tables cut into small squares, half-fried with sugar 
 and butter, in clear stock with green peas and shreds 
 of green herbs. BRUNOISE WITH ITALIAN PASTES 
 Rice, croutons, tapioca, etc., can be varied at will. 
 POTAGE DIEPPOISE A vegetable soup like julienne 
 with potatoes added, and croutons. POTAGE FAU- 
 BONNE Puree of peas with small white onions, sor- 
 rel, and chervil added. POTAGE XIVERNAISE A 
 vegetable-soup; the vegetables scooped like large 
 peas, with small Brussels sprouts and chicken 
 quenelles. POTAGE SOLFERINO A vegetable broth 
 with green peas, new potatoes, string beans, shred 
 green herbs and pieces grisini bread. BARSCH A LA 
 POLONAISE See Barzez. Red -beet liquor clear, 
 containing small-cut pieces of beef, duck, sausage, 
 beets. FLEMISH SOUP Like Brunoise, with all 
 sorts of vegetables cut in shapes, and Brussels 
 sprouts and sippets additional. POTAGE LIVONIEN- 
 Puree of all sorts of vegetables and rice, with cream 
 and croutons. POTAGE A LA CROISSY Puree of 
 white beans and vegetables together; whole green 
 peas added. CONSOMME PRINTANIERE Clear soup 
 with small-cut spring vegetables, string beans, peas, 
 asparagus points. PRINTANIERE ROVALE The 
 same with "royal" custards added. PRINTANIERE 
 A LA PARISIENNE With custards of chicken-puree 
 and eggs. PRINTANIERE A LA VICTORIA With 
 chicken-quenelles reddened with lobster-coral. 
 PRINTANIERE AU VERT-PRE Meadow-green prin- 
 taniere with puree of spinach and green coloring. 
 PRINTANIERE WITH QUENELLES With yellow 
 quenelles of chicken. POTAGE COLBERT WIH 
 EGGS- Printaniere with a poached egg in each plate. 
 PUREE OF SORREL WITH CREAM Veal -broth thick- 
 ened with roux, yolks, cream, puree of stewed sorrel 
 mingled with it. PUREE OF TOMATOES Fried 
 vegetables, onions, ham; flour, tomatoes, stock, 
 strained; croutons. LEEK SOUP A LA PICARDE 
 Same as potato with leeks. PUREE OF PUMPKIN 
 Stewed pumpkin strained and diluted with milk, 
 butter, seasonings; sippets of bread. PUREE OF 
 SPINACH Spinach simmered tender in butter; flour, 
 broth, boiled milk, strained, made green. CREAM 
 OF CAULIFLOWER Cooked in white broth, rubbed 
 through a seive with cream, butter, flowerets of 
 cauliflower, croutons. PUREE A LA CRECY Stewed 
 carrots with vegetables passed through a seive, 
 stock slightly thickened; croutons. CRECY AU SA- 
 GOU Mince up 2 onions, fry in butter, add i qt. of 
 nnely minced carrots, season with salt and a pinch 
 of sugar. When they have lost their humidity, wet 
 slightly with bouillon, cook over a moderate fire, 
 wetting from time to time with bouillon. Pass first 
 trough seive and then through tammy. Dilute the 
 
 SOU 
 
 pur<5e in i qts. bouillon, allo'v it to boil, withdraw 
 pan to side of fire, skim, and season at the last mo- 
 ment. Add % Ib. boiled sago, and bind with 4 yolks 
 of eggs and 2 oz. butter. This done, serve. PUREE 
 OF CARROTS A L'ALLEMANDE-Pulpof can ots boiled 
 in salt-pork stock, flour, butter, yolks, cream, and 
 noiiilles. PUREE OF ASPARAGUS Green, with green 
 tops passed through a seive, and coloring; green 
 tops and fried croutons in the soup. CREAM OF AS- 
 PARAGUS White; whole asparagus in salt- pork 
 : stock passed through seive; stock thickened; cream, 
 i green asparagus tops, and croutons. GREEN CORN 
 ; SOUP Grated raw corn in stock of chicken and salt 
 pork with a moderate seasoning of onion; milk or 
 cream, and seasoning of chopped parsley. CANNED- 
 CORN SOUP One can sweet corn, i quart boiling 
 water, I qt. milk, 3 tablespoonfuls butter rolled in i 
 ; tablespoonful flour, 2 eggs, pepper and salt, i table- 
 spoonful tomato catsup. Drain the corn and chop it 
 in a chopping-tray, put on in the boiling water and 
 cook steadHy I hour; rub through a colander, leav- 
 ing the husks behind, and return with the water in 
 ! which it has boiled to the fire; season; boil gently 3 
 minutes, and stir in the butter and flour; have ready 
 I the boiling milk, pour it upon the beaten eggs, and 
 , these into the soup; simmer i minute, stirring all 
 the while; take up, add the catsup, and pour out. 
 ; TOMATO CREAM SOUP An American specialty. To 
 make it successfully, that is, without having the 
 milk curdle in it, two separate soups should be 
 made: a puree of tomatoes without spices, and a 
 white cream of chicken orveal soup in which apiece 
 ; of salt pork has l>een boiled; the latter should be 
 thickened and finished, and the tomato soup then 
 i mingled with it and not afterwards boiled. PUREE 
 1 OF CHESTNUTS A LA MANCELLE Blanched and 
 , boiled Italian chestnuts passed through a seive in 
 '. game broth; little sugar, butter, nutmeg, yolks, 
 croutons. CUCUMBER SOUP See'Cur/imt'frs. Po- 
 : TAGE CREME DE CHICOREE A LA COLBERT White 
 i stock and cream, thickened with yolks, witii stewed 
 i chicory and poached eggs. POTAGE A LA RUSSE 
 i Brown soup with vegetables and round balls of 
 | sausage-meat. POTAGE A LA D'ARTOIS Puree of 
 ! green peas. POTAGE A LA PALESTINE Puree of 
 Jerusalem artichokes. POTAGE A L< STAMBOUL 
 ( Puree of rice and tomatoes. POTAGE A LA CHAN- 
 i TILLY Puree of lentils with cream. POTAGE A LA 
 SOUBISE Puree of onions. PUREE DE CONCOM- 
 i BRES Pure of cucumbers. PUKEE DE CHOUX- 
 FLEURS Purde of cauliflower. COLD SOUP Put a 
 chicken in a stewpan with a bunch of parsley and 
 fennel and a wineglassful of cucumber juice; 3 pts. 
 of broth. Bring the liquid to the boiling point; stew 
 it, and pop the stewpan on the corner of the stove. 
 When your chicken is cooked, drain it, pass the 
 broth through a napkin and carefully clarify it. 
 Simultaneously you have had cooked a garnishing 
 of celery cut in sticks an inch long. Pour this gar- 
 nishing into your soup-tureen with the clarified con- 
 I somme, the scollopped breasts of the chicken, and I
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 451 
 
 sou 
 
 tablespoonful of chopped parsley and green fennel. 
 Thoroughly refrigerate before serving; and your 
 potage will be none the worse for a few little bits of 
 ice floating in the liquid. (See Ices, Iced Soups.) 
 
 SOUP STICKS Long and slender crusty rolls are 
 baked in fluted pans, to be eaten with soup. A sub- 
 stitute for grisini bread in hotels where that harder 
 kind of finger-bread would not be generally accept- 
 able: The moulds to bake in should not be wider 
 than one's middle finger; a sheet of Russia iron can 
 be corrugated at the shops to make a dozen of these 
 little troughs in one piece. 
 
 SOUSE Pickled meat, such as pigs' feet, in 
 spiced vinegar, which are called in some sections 
 soused pigs'-feet. SOUSED SALMON See Salmon, 
 pickled. 
 
 SOUTHDOWN MUTTON A fine breed of 
 sheep improved especially for mutton and not for 
 wool in the South Down's grazing region of En- 
 gland furnishes this name for good mutton in the 
 American bill of fare. 
 
 SOY A bottled sauce imported from China and 
 India; composition uncertain. 
 
 SPAGHETTI Italian paste like macaroni, but 
 not tubular; it is a solid cord. Cooked in all ways 
 the same as macaroni. 
 
 SPANISH COOKERY The same names of 
 dishes are found in the Spanish bill of fare as in the 
 Mexican, as might be expected, and it is likely to be 
 the case that the high-class cuisine in the City of 
 Mexico and of the same grade in the cities of Spain 
 are essentially one thing; the old country, however, 
 is subjected to the rasping friction and shaking-up 
 of the cosmopolitan crowd of railvvay travelers and 
 tourists and can scarcely be so conservative of 
 Spanish habits as the Mexican-Spanish cities may 
 be. This is an observant traveler's sketch of "A 
 RAILROAD EATING-HOUSE IN SPAIN On the rail- 
 road at Miranda I for the first time tested Spanish 
 catering at the buffet. It was a wonderful meal 
 real Spanish cookery, everything done in oil; but it 
 was by no mea'ns bad. The wonderful thing about 
 it was the way in which the passengers got through 
 a meal of ten courses in fifteen minutes by the clock. 
 It was one plate down and another up. The waiters 
 actually gallopped round the table piling plates full 
 of soup, fish, entree, joint, fowl, salad, pastry, cheese, 
 and fruit before the astonished passengers. Heav- 
 ens, how we ate! How we finished one plate and 
 pushed it aside and seized the full one by our side! 
 No changing knives and forks. It was just one wild 
 waltz from dish to dish." Away from the railroads, 
 however, the family resemblance between Mexico 
 and Spain is plainly discernible; in Mexico the cook- 
 stone is a charcoal furnace, the brasero, a furnace 
 made of baked earth, and in the old country a trav- 
 eler remarks: "It is to be noted that in the Spanish 
 kitchen charcoal takes the place of coal or gas as 
 fuel, while earthenware vessels are generally em- 
 ployed instead of metal ones. AKROZ CON POLLO 
 
 SPA 
 
 Rice and chicken. This is one of the national dishes 
 of Spain, and may be seen heading as well the Mex- 
 ican bill of fare on a former page. It will be found 
 to resemble certain other dishes of meat with rice 
 described in Italian and Oriental cookeries. Put 3 
 tablespoonfuls of oil into a pan, and when hot place 
 therein some small pieces of fowl, which are to be 
 cooked slowly in the oil for half an hour. By this 
 time the pieces should be brown. Meanwhile, in an- 
 other pan, fry also in oil, onions, garlic, tomatoes, 
 and red pepper, adding this mixture to the fowl, to- 
 gether with 6 or 8 oz. of well-washed rice and : pt. 
 of stock. Cover and simmer slowly until the rice has 
 absorbed the liquid and becomes soft. Two other 
 dishes designated as national dishes differ but little 
 from each other; one is PUCHERO A soup made of 
 any or several kinds of meat at once and an assort- 
 ment of Spanish vegetables; all this strained out and 
 served in one dish while the soup with bread is 
 served in another. Its foundation is as follows: Fry 
 onion and garlic in olive-oil, add any kind of meat 
 (beef, mutton, or fowl, either alone or mixed to- 
 gether), cut into small pieces, and seasoned with 
 salt, plenty of pepper, and a few chillies. Fill up the 
 puchera (an earthen pan) with water or stock, a little 
 vinegar; z.&&garbanzos(p. kind of chick pea), all veg- 
 etables in season and at hand, withholding potatoes 
 until half or three-quarters of an hour before the 
 finish of the dish. The ingredients must simmer 
 slowly. THE OLLA PODRIDA Is the national stew 
 rather than a soup. It is composed exclusively of 
 Spanish produce, such as garbanzos (chick peas), 
 chirizos (Spanish red sausages), iong pepper, garlic, 
 tomatoes, and all sorts of roughly-cut vegetables, 
 such as cabbages, endives, carrots, turnips, onions, 
 gourds, and French beans. All these ingredients 
 are put together in a large earthen pot of a peculiar 
 form, with a piece of smoked bacon, a fowl, and a 
 piece cf beef. When done, the vegetables are laid 
 at the bottom of a very deep dish, in the center of 
 which is placed the beef, flanked by the bacon and 
 the fowl. The sausages are dished around, and some 
 of the liquor from the pot poured over the whole. In 
 all restaurants, inns and hotels in Spain there is in- 
 variably an olla podrida ready to be served at the 
 traveler's request. " 'Tis reported of the Marquis 
 Ciappoint Vitello, an Italian, who was one of the 
 best soldiers that nation ever bred, that he had so 
 great a liking to this sort of olla when he was in 
 Spain, that he never cared to dine at home, but walk- 
 ing about the streets, if he smelt in any citizen's 
 house this sort of victuals, he went in there, and sat 
 down at his table to dine with him. Before he went 
 out, he ordered his steward to pay the charge of the 
 whole dinner." It is imparted as a secret, however, 
 that this attractiveness was due to the Spanish saus- 
 ages which makes both of the foregoing prepara- 
 tions distinctive, and not like the ordinary vegetable 
 stews of other nations. SPANISH SAUSAGES, OR 
 CHORISSAS, OR CIIIKIZOS Take equal weights of 
 fat and lean pork taken from the prime parts of the
 
 452 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SPA 
 
 animal; mince this finely, and season strongly with 
 garlic and cayenne; pour over it as much dry sherry 
 as will cover it, and let it stand in a cold place for 3 
 or 4 days till it has absorbed the liquor; put the meat 
 into large skins, and moisten with the liquor that 
 remains; tie the sausages in links, and hang- them in 
 a cool, dry place; they will keep for 6 or 8 months; 
 when wanted, drop the sausages into hot water and 
 let them simmer gently until done enough. One 
 habit in cookery the Spaniads have which is like 
 the Italians' and is a reminder of the fry-shops of 
 Rome. All kinds of cold vegetables are used in 
 Spain, dipped in batter and thrown into smoking 
 hot oil. This method of cooking vegetables is ex- 
 emplified in the truly Spanish dish of fried sweet 
 potatoes. SPANISH BEEFSTEAK An excellent 
 breakfast dish is a beefsteak cooked Spanish fashion. 
 Take a slice of round steak an inch thick, lay it on 
 a pie-dish, add a little water to baste it with, and 
 bake it for 30 minutes; take it out and cover it with 
 a layer of sliced onions, and bake till the onions are 
 tender; cover it with a layer of sliced tomatoes, and 
 bake 20 minutes; sprinkle on 2 tablespoonfuls of 
 grated cheese, and place in the oven long enough to 
 melt the cheese. During the baking it should be 
 basted evpry 10 minutes. This recipe is fiom the 
 note-book of a celebrated caterer. CHANFAINA Is 
 one of the oldest and most celebrated national dishes 
 in Spain, and the name is mentioned in many a 
 legend. The recipe is as follows: Boil a pork or 
 mutton liver in salt water, and cut it when done in 
 little square pieces. Take a fine-chopped onion, 
 some green mint, parsley, Spanish pepper, cloves, 
 whple pepper, salt, cinnamon, caraway, saffron and 
 the liver, and stew the whole with good olive oil, 
 once in a while put some of the bouillon, wherein 
 the liver was boiled, into the stew, and when done 
 put some cracker dust or grated crumbs of stale 
 wheatbread over it, and serve it either hot or cold. 
 (See Gondingo.) GASPACHO Spanish salad. "It 
 has been said, Spain knows of the tomato when cold. 
 Yes, and for a model gaspacho you had better go to 
 Malaga or Seville, for the sun is the prime ingre 
 dicnt. Take several fine tomatoes and as many fine 
 ripe red pimientos dulcex, and when your tomatoes 
 are well drained cut them all into large (not too thin) 
 slices, add a cucumber in transparently shaved 
 pieces, some<of the creamy sweet onion (uncooked), 
 and as much garlic as you can bear. To this add 
 salt, pepper (real pepper from the Isles), and oil, 
 with a fair squeeze of lemon (gathered fresh), and 
 you shall then taste of a dish such as the Spanish 
 saying assures you will make you 'indifferent as to 
 whether you live or die.' " SPANISH SWEETS In 
 Spain fruit takes the place of pastry. Sweet dishes 
 or dttlces are little used in the Peninsula. The 
 Spaniard's favorite sweet is turon, an almond cake, 
 very rich, used chiefly at Christmas time, and the 
 following: VII.HARACOS Boil 10 Ibs. of pumpkin, 
 when thoroughly done pass through a Chinese 
 strainer; add \y> Ibs. flour, 10 weil beaten eggs, ^ 
 
 SPI 
 
 teaspoonful cinnamon, i teaspoonfuls orange water, 
 and Yi Ib. granulated sugar; beat the ingredients 
 well together with an egg whit, and fry in very hot 
 sweet oil, the same as for rice fritters. When 
 cooked, put in an oval dish and intersperse with 
 layers of granulated sugar and drown with good 
 sherry wine; serve cold for dessert. This is a na- 
 tional dish for Christmas and New Years. SPANISH 
 FRITTERS Cut some slices of bread into any shape 
 you like, pour a very little brandy on each, mix 2 
 eggs with 2 spoonfuls of flour and a little milk; 
 cover the pieces of bread with this batter, let them 
 rest half an hour, then fry in very hot lard or butter; 
 serve hot, with a little jam of anv kind preferred on 
 each fritter. Spanish fritters (Spanish fashion) are 
 made without the addition of brandy. They are 
 made by cutting the crumb of a French roll into 
 lengths about the thickness of a finger, soaked for 
 2 hours in cream or milk, to which has been added 
 ground cinnamon, grated nutmeg, sugar to taste, 
 and an egg beaten up in it. They are next drained, 
 then fried in hot butter to a nice brown color, and 
 served hot. 
 
 SPARROW- "The tiny little wren lives 3 years, 
 the thrush 10, the lark 13, the common hen of com- 
 merce 10, the boarding house brand 75, the crow 100, 
 and the English sparrow is immortal." SPARROW 
 PIE An enthusiastic epicure says, speaking of 
 sparrows: " Xoone who has not tasted it can know 
 what a delicious pie the little bird makes tender, 
 sweet, and resembling the best of reed - birds." 
 SPARROW AND REED-BIRD The manner of pre- 
 paring the sparrow does not differ from that in the 
 case of the reed-bird, except that the sparrow meat 
 is somewhat tougher, and requires a little more care- 
 ful cooking. The sparrow, when nicely browned, 
 flavored and mounted on toast, is so deceptive that 
 old sports are frequently unable to discover the 
 fraud. Many of the sparrows are sent through the 
 adjacent country and sold in the restaurants and 
 hotels for fancy prices and at enormous profit. Ex- 
 perienced cooks say they are frequently at a loss to 
 decide whether or not the birds offered for sale by a 
 suspicious dealer are really reed -birds or sparrows. 
 They profess, however, that the flesh of a reed -bird 
 is a little whiter, the veins a little bluer and smaller 
 and the legs better shaped. 
 
 SPARROW-GRASS Common vernacular for 
 asparagus. 
 
 SPECK Salt pork or unsmoked bacon. This 
 word is found in old English bills of fare of 200 
 years ago. It is in common use in some parts of the 
 United States as in "cabbage with speck." 
 
 SPICED SALT (/)-The famous cook, Durand, 
 advocates the use of spiced salt, which he avers, has 
 often stood him in good stead. The following are 
 the exact quantities he gives in his recipe: Take 20 
 oz. salt, 4 heads of cloves, 2 nutmegs, 6 laurel leaves, 
 a stick of cinnamon, 4 whole black peppers, a 
 drachm of basil leaves, and the same quantity of
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 453 
 
 SPI 
 
 coriander seeds ; pound in a mortar and pass through 
 a tammy; pound any large pieces that remain over, 
 pass through the tammy, and keep in tightly corked 
 bottles. (z)-2 Ibs. salt, i oz. of powdered sage, i oz. 
 long pepper, J oz. of cloves, J^ oz. mice, y oz. 
 coriander seeds; moisten the salt with two table- 
 spoonfuls of bay rum, dry, and mix with the ground 
 spices; bottle and use. Many variations can be made 
 by using nutmegs, white peppers, cayenne, &c. 
 
 SPINACH Said about Spinach: "Spinach, to 
 be truly enjoyed, should never be eaten without 
 liberal saturation of gravy ; and French epicures say, 
 'Do not forget the nutmeg.' This vegetable goes 
 excellently with swine's flesh in every shape, but 
 especially ham, the stimulating flavor of which it 
 greatly modifies." "A gentleman who was fond of 
 having his vegetables good, managed his spinach 
 after this fashion : Say it was boiled on Monday, 
 and sent to the table, properly seasoned, as the cook 
 supposed; it went away untouched. The next day 
 it was warmed, with an additional piece of butter, 
 and again not eaten; and so on for four or five days, 
 each time absorbing more butter; until our gour- 
 mand, finding it sufficiently good, made an end of 
 it." "Spinach is often cooked in France with white 
 wine. There is a popular saying, '-Cela inets du 
 via dans vos epinards" ("That puts wine in your 
 spinach"), referring to a slice of good luck. But I 
 am informed that the dish thus prepared is not very 
 tasty, and that epinards au jus or au beurre are in 
 every way preferable." Fontenelle was a great epi- 
 cure and was inordinately fond of spinach. He had 
 a friend who frequently dined with him who was 
 equally partial to the succulent vegetable but they 
 differed in their preferences, of the mode of dress- 
 ing, for while Fontenelle preferred it a la creme, 
 the friend chose it dressed au beurre. In conse- 
 quence it was customary when they dined together 
 to have the spinach divided and dressed differently. 
 One day Fentenelle was awaiting his friends arrival 
 and the spinach was ready for the final dressing 
 when instead of the one expected there came a mes- 
 senger saying the friend had suddenly dropped dead. 
 Fontenelle thought a moment, then turning towards 
 the kitchen he said: " Tell the cook to dress all the 
 spinach a la creme f and without further comment 
 he went to dinner. SPINACH DRESSED IN GERMAN 
 FASHION Wash the spinach clean and boil for a 
 quarter of an hour with some salt. Then squeeze 
 quite dry, and cut very finely. Mix six ounces but- 
 ter, one ounce bread-crumbs, and some very finely 
 minced onion, and a quarter of a pint of cream or 
 good rnilk. Boil all up together with the spinach, 
 and serve. CANNED SPINACH The latest novelty 
 in American canned provisions is canned spinach, 
 which is already cooked, and only requires warm- 
 ing by immersion of the tins in hot water to be ready 
 for table. One three-pound can contains about one 
 peck of spinach, measured in the green state. EPI- 
 NARDS A L'ANGLAISE Boiled, drained and buttered 
 as in paragraph above. EPINARDS A LA CREME 
 
 SQU 
 
 Spinach cooked and mashed, cream and sugar 
 added, served with croutons of bread fried in butter. 
 EPINARDS Aujus Spinach with gravy. EPINARDS 
 A L'ALLEMANDE Spinach in German fashion. 
 SPINACH A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL Boiled, drained, 
 seasoned with butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg and 
 sprinkling of vinegar. SPINACH, AMERICAN STYLE 
 With a thin slice of hot roast ham on top. SPIN- 
 ACH SOUPS Spinach pounded and rubbed through a 
 seive is made into several varieties of soups, as 
 puree of spinach, cream of spinach, spinach with 
 sorrel, and with various additions of other vegetar 
 bles, rice or pastes. SWEET SPINACH Cook the 
 spinach in fresh butter; when done, stir in some 
 pounded macaroons, sugar, grated lemon -peel, and 
 a pinch of salt. Hand sponge fingers with this dish. 
 SPICE CAKES Various, as ginger cake with 
 mixed spices, fruit cake well spiced and small cut- 
 out cakes of the ginger-snap kind. 
 
 SPONGE CAKE Made of 8 eggs, % cup water, 
 i Ib. sugar, J Ib. flour. Sugar, water and yolks 
 beaten together, flour stirred in, whipped whites 
 last. SPONGE DROPS Teaspoonfuls of ihe above 
 mixture dropped on paper, dredged with sugar and 
 baked. SPONGE PUDDING Sponge-cake mixture 
 steamed in a mould. 
 
 SPRAT A small sea-fish, in appearance some- 
 thing like a sardine; formerly supposed to be the 
 young herring. It appears at certain seasons in 
 English waters in immense numbers and becomes 
 extremely abundant and cheap in the markets. 
 
 SQUAB-American name for young pigeons. The 
 methods of cooking are the same as for quails and 
 young chickens. Squab pie, like pigeon or chicken 
 pie. 
 
 SQUAB PIE, DEVONSHIRE In Devonshire 
 they have a special local,pie, which, is "fearfully and 
 wonderfully made." It consists of a layer of sliced 
 apples, a lay^r of sliced onions, and a layer of meat; 
 the meat layer is well seasoned with pepper, salt, 
 and a liberal allowance of sugar. They proceed 
 thus until the pie-dish is filled; it is then covered 
 with a crust. In spite of its eccentric ingredients, 
 it is very good eating, and squab pie and clotted 
 cream are the two best things to be got in Devon- 
 shire. 
 
 SQUASH There are two classes of vegetables 
 with this name and several varieties of each. The 
 summer squashes are like the English vegetable 
 marrow, greatly esteemed as a mashed vegetable, 
 but very watery until dried down. The winter 
 squashes are as mealy as potatoes and used in the 
 same ways. They are as large as pumpkins and 
 deeper colored. 
 
 SQUID The cuttle fish; abundant in the Pacific; 
 fished for and taken in large quantities by the Chi- 
 nese and dried for use and sale. 
 
 SQUIRREL "The squirrel, a charming little 
 animal, which ought never to please but when alive,
 
 454 
 
 THE. STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 STA 
 
 often appeared at Rome among the most elegant 
 dishes of the feast. At first it was only eaten by ca- 
 price; unfortunately for the little animal, it was 
 found to be very nice." "The usual way of cook- 
 ing squirrels in France is the same as for pullet 
 stewed a la chasseur, which dish the squirrel, thus 
 prepared, is said greatly to resemble. Squirrel 
 is a favorite mets in many French country houses. 
 BROILED SQUIRREL Young squirrels are flattened 
 out and broiled the same as chickens. POTTED 
 SQUIRRELS Baked in a jar in the oven. (See "Jug- 
 ged Hare and Potted Rabbit.) SQUIRREL STEW 
 (Set Cumberland SteTV.) 
 
 STAP.CH FRENCH LAUNDRESSES RECIPE 
 Make two gallons of starch the ordinary way with 
 water, then melt in half of a common candle. Set it 
 out of doors till cool enough to stir round with your 
 hand and then mix half a cup of raw starch and stir 
 in. Take off the sk'n that will form on top. "Any- 
 body can iron with it." 
 
 STEAM BREAD-- A recent invention. It is 
 made of the very finest flour, and baked in air-tight 
 pans, which enclose it on all sicijs. It is thus baked 
 in its own steam and possesses a flavor peculiarly 
 its own. 
 
 STERLET A Russian river fish: a small kind of 
 sturgeon. 
 
 ST. HONORE CAKE The chaux paste, same 
 as for queen fritters (ivhifh see) laid in form of a 
 border around a pie -paste bottom crust and baked; 
 when done the cake is filled up in various ways, as, 
 with pastrv, cream or custard bordered (on top of 
 the puff border) with sugared cherries or brandied 
 fruits;orwith the pastry cream in ixed with whipped 
 cream, etc. 
 
 STILTON* CHEESE -An English cheese, very 
 choice and dear. It is made small in s ze and drum- 
 shaped, is cream -colored, and has a rough or wrin- 
 kled crust. J ust at the time this cheese has become 
 fashionable in the. United States it is giving way in 
 England to gorgonzola, the new favorite; the com- 
 plaint against Stilton being that it is not kept up to the 
 former high standard of quality that made it world- 
 renowned as :\ dessert cheese. Stilton, it seems, was 
 first made by a Mrs. Paulet, of Wymondham, near 
 Melton Mowbray, who supplied a celebrated sport- 
 ing innkeeper, named Cooper Thornhill, of the Bell 
 Inn, Stilton. Thornhill got a great name for his 
 excellent cheese, and used to sell it for half a crown 
 a pound, a lot of money at the time. In following 
 English customs in this country it is apt to be for- 
 gotten that over there cheese is not thought to befit 
 to eat until it is "ripe." An intimation of what that 
 means is conveyed in this: "The late Charles 
 Mathews used to tell, with great glee, a little story 
 of Charles Lamb which he vouched for as authen- 
 tic and believed to be unpublished. One evening 
 Mary Lamb took a sudden and violent fancy for 
 some Stilton cheese for supper, an article of which 
 there was not a scrap in the house. It was very 
 
 STR 
 
 wet, and getting rather late; but diaries, with that 
 selfdenial which showed itself in a life-long devo- 
 tion to his sister, at once volunteered to try whether 
 any could be got. He sallied! forth, and reached 
 their cheesemonger just as the shutters were being 
 put up. In reply to his demand, he was assured that 
 he could have some fine ripe Stilton; and the shop- 
 keeper proceeded to cut off a slice. As it lay on the 
 scales, Lamb's attention was forcibly arrested by 
 the liveliness of the surface of the "fine ripe Stil- 
 ton." " Now, Mr. Lamb," said the cheesemonger, 
 " shall I have the pleasure of sending this home for 
 you ?" " No, th-th-thank you," said Charles Lamb. 
 " If you will give mea bit of twine. I cou-cou-could 
 p'raps 1-1-1-lead it home! " 
 
 ST. PIERRE Name often met with in foreign 
 menus; it is a seafish, the John dory. 
 
 STRAWBERRY A prime luxury in its raw 
 state when fresh, and good again in the form of 
 preserves or jam, but a very poor fruit for stewing 
 or pie-making. The best combinations with pastry 
 instead of in pies are the STRAWBERRY MERINGUE 
 A sheet of cake such as genoise, or butter sponge 
 cake, or regular sponge cake (baked), thickly covered 
 with ripe berries and sugar, upon these a thick coat- 
 ing of soft meringue (see meringue) with sugar sifted 
 on top; baked enough to cook the meringue but not 
 the berries, and the other popular and wellknown 
 American dish of cooked paste with raw strawber- 
 ries, known as STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE The do- 
 mestic form of this is what the name implies, a flat 
 cake of short-paste about % inch thick after baking 
 is split open and a thick layer of strawberries, 
 sugared, spread between, and more on top. The 
 paste may be made of J Ib. butter rubbed into i Ib. 
 of flour and mixed with water. Some, however, 
 use bisquit dough made light with baking powder. 
 The best is puff short- paste, of fully y Ib. of biuter 
 to i Ib. of flour, made by rolling in the butter in 
 ! flakes instead of rubbing in, and giving the paste S 
 I rollings in all. The bakers, of course, make that 
 j which sells the best, and strawberry meringue as 
 i above described, made either with or without me- 
 i ringue, is the popular "strawberry shortcake" of 
 the shops and lunch houses, meringue being a for- 
 eign word and the cake combination tasting as 
 sweet by the familiar home name. MAMMOTH 
 STRAWBERRIES The large berries served fresh 
 
 i should have the stems left on to hold them bv ; thev 
 
 - ' * 
 
 ; are dipped in powdered sugar as eaten. STRAW- 
 BERRIES AND CREAM-This usually now means with 
 ice-cream. It should be pure cream and not a cus- 
 tard mixture. Otherwise the berries picked from 
 their steins are served in saucers with powdered 
 sugar and cold cream separately. CLARET AND 
 STRAWBERRIES Some people tell you that you 
 should not drink claret after strawberries. They 
 are wrong, if the claret be good. The milky taste 
 of good claret coalesces admirably with the straw- 
 
 ' berries, somewhat like cream. If the claret be bad, 
 it is quite a different affair; and suspect it if you
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 455 
 
 STU 
 
 find the master of the house anxious not to make the 
 test." " Well, and did you not think him quite 
 right about claret coalescing' with strawberries? 
 The French do, at any rate. Your dish of ' straw- 
 berries and cream ' is unknown here; you probably 
 remember the story about the horrified ' Whatever 
 is this for? ' that came from a French gentleman to 
 whom a plate of mashed strawberries was presented 
 at a garden party during a recent season. Here cla- 
 ret is added to the strawberries instead of cream or 
 milk, and an admirable improvement it is on the 
 latter. Only, as Maginn says, the claret must be 
 good." 
 
 STURGEON " The lordly sturgeon, which may 
 be recommended to people with tolerably good 
 digestions, larded with fillets of eel and anchovy, 
 and basted with thick cray-fish sauce." A STUR- 
 GEON OF FULL SIZE At the Tivoli restaurant was 
 recently exhibited the head of an exceptionally large 
 sturgeon caught on the Dogger 
 Bank, and consigned to Mr. T. 
 Kent, of Billingsgate. The 
 weight of this royal fish was 
 644 pounds; its measurement be- 
 ing 1 1 feet 2 inches long, and 5 
 ^ feet 2 in. in girth. STURGEON IN 
 g THE GREAT LAKES The stur- 
 >J geon is taken in abundance in 
 pj Lakes Michigan and Superior, 
 # and as the price in market varies 
 I according to the demand of the 
 o curers, the lish are kept alive in 
 J pens at the fishing stations until 
 D orders are received by telegraph 
 to ship to the city. SMOKED 
 STURGEON Smoked sturgeon 
 is now included by epicures 
 among fish delicacies. About a 
 hundred pounds at a time are 
 placed in a brick furnace, with 
 eight-inch walls, leaving an 
 inside square of about three feet. A very hot 
 fire being placed directly underneath, the fat as 
 it melts generates its own smoke. Care has to 
 be taken that the flow is not so heavy as to 
 produce too fierce a flame, as then there would 
 be a charred fish, which is not desirable. The 
 time necessary to smoke sturgeon is about six 
 hours. Eels undergo a like process, and are very 
 palatable. There is a peculiarity about the smoking 
 of haddock, inasmuch as it is smoked entirely with 
 sawdust. Of course it can be smoked by other 
 means, but the best method is the sawdust fire. 
 DAME D'ESTURGEOX AuFouR Bakedslice of stur- 
 geon. Lay a. fine slice of sturgeon in a tin dish, 
 sprinkle with a little olive oil, the juice of a lemon, 
 chopped mixed herbs, salt and pepper; bake, and 
 when done, place in another dish, pass the sauce 
 through a tammy, pour over the flsh, and hand re- 
 motslade sauce separately. ESTURGEON EN FRI- 
 CAXDEAU Sturgeon cut in thick slices, larded, 
 
 SUG 
 
 stewed with bacon and mushrooms and glazed. ES- 
 TURGEON BRAISE Sturgeon larded and braised with 
 wine stock, herbs, onions and ham. ESTURGEON A 
 LA BOURGUIGNOTTE Baked cut of sturgeon served 
 with Bourguignotte sauce. ESTURGEON A LA Ro- 
 YALE A sturgeon tied up in the form of a cushion, 
 covered with forcemeat, ornamented with slices of 
 truffles and red tongue. ESTURGEON GRILLE SAUCE 
 PIQUANTE Broiled sturgeon steak with piquant 
 sauce. ESTURGEON A LA REINE Small sturgeon 
 steaks larded with strips of truffles sand lean ham, 
 parboiled in seasoned broth; put into oiled papers 
 with chopped herbs, folded up and broiled in the 
 papers. Served without the papers with butter 
 sauce around. TRANCHES D'ESTURGEON Slices, 
 or sturgeon steaks. 
 
 SUCRE (Fr.) Sugar. SUCRES Sweets. 
 
 SUCCOTASH Indian name of a mixture of but- 
 ter beans and corn cooked together, a common and 
 popular American vegetable dish. 
 
 SUEDOISE Swedish dish of fruits, compotes, 
 placed upon rounds of fried bread, and built up in 
 pyramidal form around a center-piece of fried 
 bread. 
 
 SUGAR In cooking such sweet preparations as 
 are made with milk or cream, whether for custards, 
 puddings, sauces, or whatever else, the sugar should 
 be mixed in before the milk goes on the fire, and it 
 will prevent burning on the bottom. This simple 
 precaution does away in many instances with the 
 necessity of following the onerous course demanded 
 by most cook-book writers, to " stir the mixture (of 
 eggs, milk, flour, etc.,) constantly till it boils." The 
 milk and sugar together take care of themselves, 
 and when poured to the eggs, starch, or steeped ta- 
 pioca the cooking is almost finished and little time 
 lost. DEGREES FOR BOILING SUGAR These are the 
 smooth, the thread, the blow or feather, the ball, 
 the crack, the caramel. ist.-Smooth, or 215 degree? 
 by thermometer; as an example take 12 Ibs. of loaf 
 sugar, to which put 3 pts water; as soon as it boils 
 see that all the sugar is dissolved, if not use the 
 spaddle to assist in doing so, let it boil for five min- 
 utes or so, dip into it the handle of a teaspoon, draw 
 it between the finger and thumb; if on working 
 them together they feel slippery, that is the first de- 
 gree of smooth; this degree can be used for crystal- 
 lizing liqueurs and various other goods. 2d-Thread, 
 or 230 degrees by thermometer. In the course of a 
 few minutes the sugar passes into this degree; hav- 
 ing soaked the previous sugar off the spoon, try the 
 boil again, close your finger and thumb together and 
 gently part them, when, if you perceive a thread- 
 like appearance between them, it has passed into 
 this degree, which can now be used for making 
 liqueurs or bonbons, &c, 3rd Blow, and feather, 
 240 degrees. In two or three minutes from the last 
 sugar passes into this degree; dip a small skimmer 
 or slice with holes in it into the sugar, drain it off 
 quickly and blow hard through them, you will per-
 
 456 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SUG 
 
 ceive bladders and feathery particles pass away. 
 This is the blow or feather, very useful degrees, and 
 can be used for candying peel, fruit, &c. 4th The 
 ball, or 250 to 255 degrees. About the same time as 
 the last this degree arrives, have some cold water 
 bandy. Take a little sugar out of the pan with the 
 handle of the spoon, dip it into the water, and if it 
 is tough and you can work it about with the finger 
 and thumb like a pinch of hot bread, that is the ball 
 which can be used for candies or creams, if jams or 
 preserves are to be mixed in after being worked 
 into cream by the spaddle. $th Crack, 310 to 315 
 degrees. Use the same process in testing as the 
 last, but quickly; take a little out of the pan, put it 
 into cold water, when it will crack, or slip it off 
 quickly and bite it well; if it crunches and leaves the 
 teeth without sticking to them, pour the sugar out 
 instantly on your slab. This is the most usesul de- 
 gree to the hard confectioner for all purposes of 
 boiled sugars. (N.B. In trying this last degree, 
 unless an experienced workman, the pan must be 
 lifted off the fire.) 6th Caramel. It is not neces- 
 sary to try this degree in the same way as the last; 
 the instant the sugar changes color, which must be 
 closely watched, as it occurs rapidly, it must be 
 poured out, or if not raquired on the slab but for 
 other purposes, such as spinning sugar, &c., place 
 it in a tub of cold water the size of the bottom of the 
 pan, to stop the heat, or it will turn very dark. This 
 degree is mostly used for spinning sugar for orna- 
 mental table use. To PREVENT GRAINING Asa 
 Tule, put about a quarter of an ounce of the cream of 
 tartar to an eight or ten pound boil, accordiag to the 
 strength of sugar; a teaspoonful of the strong acids, 
 or tablespoonful of lemon juice or the best malt 
 vinegar to the same quantity of loaf sugar to reduce 
 its strength. The same effect is produced by using 
 "glucose," a fifth part of which to any quantity of 
 sugur will reduce it to the required working condi- 
 tion. The advantage of this is in increasing the bulk 
 at a small cost. Although, strictly speaking, this 
 is an adulteration, it is quite wholesome. THER- 
 MOMETERS FOR SUGAR BOILING Are made of cop- 
 per, degrees properly marked for the purpose, the 
 scale beginning at 30, the degree for simple syrup as 
 used in making mousses (ice creams) being 32. Can 
 be purchased at confectioners' supply stores. 
 
 SUGAR ROCK WORK, or honey-comb candy, 
 used for building ornamental pieces. Having made 
 a wooden frame about 12 or 16 inches square, and 4 
 inches deep, place it on a wet slab or wooden bench; 
 take 7 Ibs. loaf sugar (no lowering), boil to the cara- 
 mel degree, previous to which, in a pound jar three 
 parts filled with fine powdered sugar, mix the whites 
 of two eggs, beat it well till stiff; when the sugar 
 comes to the degree required, put in any color you 
 like, take it off, pour icing in and immediately agi- 
 tate the whole with, the spatula; in two or three 
 minutes it will rise to the edge of the pan, let it fall 
 . again and continue stirring, as soon as it begins to 
 rise the second time, instantly pour it into the frame. 
 
 SWA 
 
 Many persons fail at this process from pouring out 
 at the first rising, which on the slab becomes per- 
 fectly flat and heavy. When cool remove it by pass- 
 ing a fine string or ^ong palate-knife underneath it. 
 
 SUGAR SPIXXJNG-Or web decoration. Sugar 
 boiled as above to the beginning oicaramel, or, take 
 2 Ibs. white sugar, J teaspoon cream tartar, i pt 
 water, boil to the crack for white web, or to the be- 
 ginning of caramel for yellow. Let it cool for 10 
 minutes, then place your ornamental piece with the 
 stand and all on the floor, spread a newspaper to 
 catch the waste threads. Have a bunch of wire 
 with 8 or 10 ends or prongs, dip the wire prongs 
 into the hot sugar, and as it drains off you will 
 swing it around or across the ornamental piece to 
 make a silky veil of fine threads till you have all the 
 sugar used up. If not wanted that way, lay a broom 
 on the table with the handle projecting over and 
 swing the threads back and forth across the handle. 
 When done run your hand under anfl cut the threads 
 loose from the floor or paper and lay them in a bunch 
 or skein where wanted. In this form spun sugar is 
 used to represent water flowing in a cascade over 
 rocks made of the honey-comb candy above men- 
 tioned, or flowing out of a dolphin's mouth. 
 
 SUNSHINE CAKE Yellow cake made of i# 
 Ib. sugar, J^ Ib. butter, i pint of yolks beaten with i 
 pint of milk, \% Ibs. flour, J^ Ib. rice flour, 2 tea- 
 spoons baking powder, lemon juice and rind. 
 
 SURPRISES Culinary surpnses, or dishes de- 
 signated en surprise, are things which prove to be 
 other than they purport to be, as when a cake filled 
 with cream is made and colored to imitate a ham, or 
 a baked potato is found to conceal a filling of minced 
 meat or a bird. 
 
 SWAN Lately figured on the menu of Lingner's 
 Restaurant. A roast swan, which weighed before 
 trussin 35 Ibs. As to its culinary treatment, the bird 
 was larded and stuffed with chestnuts and truffles, 
 braised before roasting, and finally served up to the 
 double accompaniment of red cabbage and port- 
 wine sauce. There was a good demand for the 
 dish, and roast swan was soon reported "off." 
 Twenty-nine " portions " were served, at 30 cents 
 each. Mr. T. Vallet, of the Swan Hotel, Alton, 
 sends us the following recipe in the hope that it 
 may be " of some use to a confrere, who finds him- 
 self face to face with a cygnet for the first time." 
 " The following will be found a very good way to 
 treat it: When the bird is well cleaned, rub it inside 
 and out with a spoonful of finely-bruised cloves, fill 
 it with a stuffing made of 2 Ib. of beefsteak, chopped 
 very fine, well seasoned, adding 4 oz. of butter and 
 some chopped shallot. Sew up the bird and tie on 
 the spit with care, so as not to let the gravy escape. 
 Cover with buttered paper. The fire should not be 
 too fierce, as the bird is ant to acquire a high color. 
 A cygnet of 15 Ibs. requires a little over two hours. 
 Half a pint of port-wine boiled with a little glaze 
 mixed with the gravy that comes from the roast is
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 457 
 
 SWE 
 
 to be poured on the dish. It should be served with 
 hot currant jelly in a boat." The breeding of 
 swans for market is suggested by a correspondent 
 as an industry likely to bear profit. He writes: "I 
 dined the other day at a house where for a party of 
 twelve a swan was the piece de resistance. It was 
 pronounced to be something between a goose and 
 a roast hare for flavor, and, being a cygnet of last 
 summer's rearing, it afforded, some said, as much 
 meat, and some rather more, than a first-class tur- 
 key." CIGNE and CIGNET are the French for swan 
 and young swan. 
 
 SWEETBREADS Both the thymus gland and 
 the pancreas, are Included in the culinary name 
 sweetbread, the substance o^f both being very simi- 
 lar and either answers the same purpose; the pan- 
 creas or stomach (or "heart") sweetbread being 
 generally accounted the best, although the throat 
 sweetbread is freer from veins and more delicate in 
 texture and therefore often recommended in spite of 
 its irregular shape, which is like a piece of pulled- 
 off fat. The cooks rely upon the butchers for these, 
 and as it never falls to a cook to have to kill and dis- 
 sect anything larger than a turkey, he takes what 
 the butcher furnishes him without much question 
 concerning the localities where they are found 
 within the animal, and then begins his part of se- 
 lecting them, and cooking them according to their 
 adaptation, the best in shape to be sliced, larded, 
 broiled, baked, braised or otherwise cooked in good 
 form; the unshapely, irregular, torn or diminutive 
 ones to be cut or minced, served in patties, or mixed 
 with other meats and mushrooms in various gar- 
 nishes, or in the form of croquettes, rissols or kromes- 
 kies, or the form of scailoped sweetbreads and, per- 
 haps, if they be plentiful enough to devote to such 
 a purpose, in soup. Sweetbreads are not such very 
 choice eating, they have but little flavor, but they 
 are tender meat, like fat without fatness; they are 
 white and adapted to be ornamented with strips of 
 larding of black truffles, green cucumbers, or pista- 
 chio nuts, or red smoked or corned tongue, and they 
 take the flavors of herbs, wines and well - made 
 sauces. That is why they are sought after and 
 necessarily in the nature of things they are scarce 
 and have been kept among the exclusive delicacies, 
 that it was thought common folks had no business to 
 want. People who board in hotels, however, want 
 everything. There is a large hotel in an English 
 city, whose proprietors are trying their level best to 
 set an American sort of a table, but to do that they 
 have to send over to France for some of their sup- 
 plies; they cannot get either tenderloins of beef or 
 good veal sweetbreads from their home butchers. 
 The French eat more veal, anyway, than any other 
 people, and calves' sweetbreads must be so much 
 the more abundant there. These are not the only 
 kinds of sweetbreads, however, for lambs furnish 
 the most delicate of all, and by reason of their 
 smallness they must be the rarest and most exclusive 
 dishes which are made of them. COOKING SWEET- 
 
 SWE 
 
 BREADS Sweetbreads have taken their stand as an 
 ubiquitous entree, and few elaborate menus are ar- 
 ranged without them. Patties of sweetbread and 
 truffles are in high favor and seem to be the caterer's 
 standard dish. In whatever way they are to be 
 afterwards dressed, sweetbreads should always be 
 steeped in water for two or three hours, then boiled 
 from 5 minutes if very young and tender, to i hour 
 if they are from very old calves, as the butchers 
 sometimes bring them, and after that pressed be- 
 tween two dishes until cold. ESCALOPES DE RIS 
 DE VEAU Scollops or slices of sweetbreads pre- 
 pared by cutting the cold and pressed sweetbreads 
 into small thick slices, spreading them over with 
 a croquette mixture of minced onions, mushrooms, 
 parsley, seasonings and panada, egging, breading 
 and frying them. Brown sauce containing sherry. 
 COQUILLES DE RIS o'AoNEAU Paris restaurant 
 specialty. Lamb's sweetbreads scalloped in shells. 
 The sweetbreads are cut in dice, cut mushrooms 
 mixed with them and both slightly fried in butter; 
 rich white sauce added, filled into table-shells, bread- 
 crumbs on top and melted butter; browned in the 
 oven. FRICANDEAU OF SwEETBREADS-The sweet- 
 breads already cold and pressed are larded with 
 strips of salt pork on the best side, braised in stock 
 with herbs and vegetables; the liquor strained, 
 boiled down to glaze and poured over them ; served 
 on a bed of spinach. RIS DE VEAU ALA VILLEROI 
 The sweetbreads already partly boiled, pressed 
 and cold are cut in slices, coated with thick white 
 sauce, breaded, egged, breaded again and fried; 
 served with white sauce and any dressed vegetable. 
 RIS DE VEAU A LA PONTELLE White fricassee of 
 pieces of sweetbreads in cream -colored sauce with 
 mushrooms. RIS DE VEAU A LA COLBERT The 
 sweetbreads already partly boiled, pressed and cold 
 are split, buttered, dipped in bread-crumbs, broiled; 
 served with colbert cauce. RISD'AGXEAU A LA JAR- 
 DINIERE Lambs' sweetbreads larded, braised and 
 glazed, served with a jardiniere garnish of mixed 
 vegetables. RIS D' AGNEAU ACX PETITS Pois The 
 preceding with peas, can be served with aspar- 
 agus points and other vegetables and named accord- 
 ingly. The French name of sweetbread serves 
 well to show how easy it is to be wrong in wording 
 a bill of fare; " ris " is not only " sweetbread " but 
 the same word stands for "smile." An American 
 lady at a French hotel once astonished and amused 
 a party of her country people by translating the dish 
 ''ris-de--ueau a la financiere" " the smile of a calf 
 at the banker's wife," and was not far out of the 
 way. To make it the more hazardous writing, while 
 ris is sweetbread, *'riz " is rice, thus: CASSEROLE 
 DE RIZ AUX RIS D'Ao.N'EAU-A baked shape or border 
 of rice filled with lambs' sweetbreads in sauce. 
 Ris DE VEAU FRITS Veal sweetbreads fried. Ris 
 DE VEAU A LA PROVENCALE Larded, braised with 
 bacon, garlic, tarragon leaves, the liquor strained 
 and boiled down to glaze. PETITES CROUSTADES- 
 DE Ris DE VEAU Patty cases shaped out of bread,
 
 458 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SWE 
 fried and tilled with sweetbread in sauce. BLAN- 
 
 QUETTE DE RlS DE VEAU AUX TRUFFLES Round 
 
 slices cooked with slices of truffles in cream colored 
 sauce. RIS DE VEAU A I.A TOULOUSE Larded, 
 braised, served with a Toulouse garnish of cocks- 
 combs, mushrooms, etc., in white sauce. RIS DE 
 VEAU PIQUES A LA TURQUE Larded, braised, 
 glazed, served on a border of forcemeat with rice in 
 the center. RIS DE VEAU EN BIGARKURE Like ar 
 epigramme; half of them larded, braised and glazec 
 and half breaded and baked brown, served in pairs 
 with tomato sauce. ESCALOPES DERis DE VEAU EN 
 CAISSE Small rounds cut with a tube cutter; with 
 "fines herbes " in buttered paper cases with bread 
 crumbs on top, baked. CROQUETTES OF SWEET- 
 BREADS Cut very small or chopped, stirred in a very 
 thick sauce with seasonings; rolled up when cold, 
 breaded and fried. CUTLETS OF SwEETBREADS-The 
 croquette mixture patted into the shape of mutton 
 chops; a piece of raw macaroni to represent the 
 bone, breaded and fried or baked; served withtoma - 
 toes or other vegetables. RISSOLES OF SWEET - 
 BREADS-The croquette mixture rolled like very thin 
 sausages, rolled up in thin pie-paste and fried. 
 KROMESKIES OF SwEETBREADS-The croquette mix- 
 ture rolled like bottle corks, rolled up in very thin 
 slices of boiled bacon, dipped in fritter batter and 
 fried. SWEETBREADS WITH KIDNEYS A LA CORDON 
 BLEU Sweetbreads larded thickly with truffles, 
 spread over with pounded pistachio nuts moistened 
 with white of egg, baked in buttered papers; 
 served with a border of broiled lamb's kidneys and 
 port wine sauce. CURRIED SWEETBREADS Large 
 slices of sweetbreads fried with onion and butter, 
 stock added, flour, butter and curry powder stirred 
 in; served with rice. MEDALLIONS DE RIS DE VEAU 
 Tomatoes raw, peeled, are cut in halves and dried 
 down in the oven; round slices of cooked sweet- 
 breads sandwiched between two halves of tomato, 
 breaded and fried; served with fried parsley and 
 supreme sauce. SWEETBREAD SOUP OR POT AGE A 
 LA COMTESSE Made of veal stock, cream, cubes of 
 sweetbreads and fried croutons. SWEETBREAD SOUP 
 A LA PONTOISE Sweetbreads in small pieces with 
 raw ham, leeks, white wine, in chicken stock thick- 
 ened with white roux. SWEETBREADS ( RIS DE 
 VEAU) Are in Paris served larded with a garnish 
 of pointes d'asferges, that is, green asparagus tops, 
 boiled, with a lump of butter added. This tasty 
 dish is tariffed from 75 centimes to 7 francs, ac- 
 cording to the restaurant at which it figures on the 
 menu. ENTREE OF SWEETBREADS Take 4 sweet- 
 breads, soak and blanch them, then stew in milk and 
 water, with mace and lemon-peel; when cooked 
 enough, strain the gravy, and thicken with a tea- 
 cup of cream and a little corn-flour. Roll up eight 
 or ten quite thin pieces of bacon, and fry them crisp, 
 and set them on end in the middle of the dish, then 
 lay small bunches of asparagus at intervals on the 
 top of the bacon, cut the sweetbreads into suitable 
 size pieces, and put them round, then pour the sauce 
 
 TAM 
 
 over them so as to leave the bacon and asparagus 
 clear. 
 
 SYLLABUB Old English name of whipped 
 cream flavored with wine and sweetened. SYLLA- 
 BUB WITH JELLY Gelatine jelly of any flavor or 
 color served in a border of whipped cream. 
 
 SYRUPS Pure fruit syrups are extremely use- 
 ful in hotel cooking, being always ready for sweet 
 sauces, sherbets, ice creams, etc. RASPBERRY SY- 
 RUP The juice of raspberries expressed either by 
 twisting up tight in a strong towel or in a fruit- 
 press made for such purposes. To \% pints of juice 
 2 Ibs. of sugar is added, melted over the fire, boiled 
 a while, skimmed, filled into bottles and corked. 
 RED CURRANT SYRUP This and other fruits by the 
 same general rule as for raspberry syrup. GINGER 
 SYRUP 2 oz, bruised ginger boiled in i qt water, 
 strained, and 2 Ibs. sugar added, boiled down to sy- 
 rup. SODA SYRUPS The foregoing with either 
 dissolved gum arable or white of egg added to form 
 a head or froth on top. PLAIN SYRUP For bar 
 keepers' and general uses: 7 Ibs. loaf sugar 
 to i quart water, boiled up, skimmed, strained. 
 
 T. 
 
 TALLEYRAND "The sole depository on the 
 entire tradition of the State," Talleyrand, even at the 
 age of eighty, ate but one square meal in the day, 
 his dinner; and every morning he required the menu 
 of it from his chef. He would rise at ten, dressing 
 himself even after the hands had got rebellious; and 
 half an hour later would have an egg, a fruit or a 
 slice of bread and butter, a glass of water with a 
 dash of madeira in it, or perhaps only two or three 
 cups of camomile tea, before beginning "work." 
 No coffee, no chocolate, and "China" tea verv rarely. 
 He dined at eight in Paris, at five in the country, 
 well and with appetite; taking soup, fish, and a meat 
 entr6e, which was almost always of knuckle of veal, 
 braised mutton -cutlets, or a fowl. He would some- 
 times have a slice off a joint; and he liked eggs and 
 custards, but rarely touched dessert. He always 
 drank a first-rate claret, in which he would put a 
 'ery little water; a glass of sherry he did not de- 
 spise, and after dinner a petit-t'erre of old malaga. 
 tn the drawing-room he would himself fill up a large 
 :up with lumps of sugar, and then the maitre d' ho- 
 tel CarSme, no less would add the coffee. Then 
 came forty winks; and afterwards he would play 
 whist for high stakes. His senile eye-lids were so 
 swollen that it was a vast effort to open them to any 
 width, and so he often let them close, and "slept" in 
 company that bored him. He still continued to call 
 up a secretary at night, and dictate to him through 
 the closed bed -curtains. 
 
 TAMARIND The fruit of the tamarind tree 
 which grows in the West Indies; it is in the form of 
 a pod containing an acid pulp; the pods are packed 
 n casks filled up with syrup. Eaten as a sweetmeat 
 ind used to make a cooling drink.
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 459 
 
 TER 
 
 TERRAPIN A salt-water tortoise. The subject 
 of more speculative puffery and ingenious advertis- 
 ing to advance prices to the most absurd extremes 
 than any other food-product of America. Every 
 crawling, sliding, sun hasking, mud-wallowing rep- 
 tile of the turtle or tortoise kind now goes to pot in 
 the name of one particular variety called the dia- 
 mond-back, and as all are gelatinous, all devoid of 
 any decided or characteristic flavor, and all are when 
 dressed highly seasoned and alike flavored with 
 sherry, to distinguish one variety from another by 
 the taste is impossible; and to pay $4 or $5 for a 
 plateful, or $10 or $20 a quart for the prepared article 
 is sheer infatuation, a fashionable craziness, a con- 
 fession to being the dupe of cunning advertisers. 
 Terrapin or tortoise is good eating as cooked in 
 Maryland country-houses, as are soft-shell turtles, 
 hawk's -bills, and snapping turtles likewise: they are 
 all gelatinous, tender, and susceptible of being 
 highly flavored by skillful cookery. COOKING TEK - 
 RAPIN There are four principal ways, the white 
 fricassee, brown fricassee, the terrapin pie (like 
 chicken pie), and the baking in the shell to be eaten 
 with salt, pepper, and butter. These terms are used 
 here, because chicken fricassees or stews are very 
 generally understood, and terrapin is the same with 
 the addition of more or less wine, according to cir- 
 cumstances or individual tastes. TERRAPIN, MARY- 
 LAND STYLE The cream stew or white fricassee. 
 The terrapin dropped into boiling water and allowed 
 to remain for about 15 minutes; then handled with a 
 towel, and the outer skin of the legs hastily scraped 
 off before it becomes set fast. The terrapin is 
 opened, gall bladder sought for and removed with- 
 out breaking, intestines thrown out, eggs saved, and 
 liver; flesh removed from the shells, divided in 
 pieces, simmered in butter and the terrapin liquor 
 collected from the shells while cutting up, little sea- 
 soning of mace, salt, pepper; flour stirred in, sherry 
 and boiled cream ; the eggs added at last. TERRA- 
 PIN, BALTIMORE STYLE The same method with, 
 brown sauce and wine instead of cream and wine. 
 In either case the first scalding is only a parboiling, 
 and the blood still runs inside, and the cut -up terra- 
 pin must cook about an hour afterwards to make it 
 gelatinous and tender. TERRAPIN SOUPS Cream 
 of terrapin is made of terrapin broth strengthened 
 with veal or chicken broth and vegetable season- 
 ings, cream and butter, pieces of terrapin and 
 thickening of yolks mixed in without curdling with 
 too much heat, and chopped parsley. Terrapin soup 
 brown is made same as turtle soup. 
 
 THOX (Fr.)-Tunny; a fish. 
 
 TIMBALE Thimble or drum shape; anything 
 formed in a plain round mould. 
 
 TOMATOES These brilliantly colored fruits are 
 most wholesome and delicious to those who have 
 once acquired the taste for them. To our mind there 
 is no more delightful salad at this time of year than 
 a coup'e of well-ripened tomatoes sliced, sparingly 
 
 TOM 
 
 flavored with shredded onion, seasoned with pepper 
 and salt, and liberally sauced with Provence oil and 
 white wine-vinegar (two parts of oil to one of vin- 
 egar.) COOKING TOMATOES "There are two modes 
 of adapting the use of the tomato to man the hot 
 and the cold. For the latter the Spaniard is supreme ; 
 but the Provencale alone knows how to dress it hot. 
 The people of Bordeaux (where all the women are 
 born cooks) imagine they can supply you with a dish 
 of stuffed tomatoes. It is a mistake. Firstly, their 
 soft, often hazy, south-western climate does not 
 furnish the fruit; secondly, they have not the oil; 
 and, thirdly, they have not the 'trick' of it. No! 
 there are a few things for which you must go to 
 Provence (of which Messer Francesco Petrarca a 
 rare gourmet in his day was well aware.) You 
 must go to Aix for its oil, to Barbantane for its as- 
 paragus, to Cavaillon for its aubergines and its mel- 
 ons those Sir John Falstaffs of the kitchen garden; 
 I to the Fontaine de Vaucluse for its eels and its fat 
 ' becqite fiffiien; but to Avignon for its tomates farcies. 
 This dish is the business of a dav. First take a 
 
 TIMBALE MOULDS. 
 
 shallow copper tourtiere and see how many tomatoes 
 of equal size will fit into it, very closely together. 
 Next take out each tomato, cut off one-third of the 
 upper part, and put it (face downwards) into a plate 
 upon a pinch of strewn salt. Leave the fruit for 
 about three hours, until all the acid juice shall have 
 exuded. This prevents the stupid complaint of ig- 
 noramuses, that 'tomatoes are unwholesome, and 
 they are afraid of them.' When all the 'vice' has 
 been taken out of them, range your 'apples' in the 
 tourtiere, with a teaspoonlul of oil at the bottom to 
 keep them moist, and then delicately apply to each 
 one a light covering of the forcemeat described be- 
 low, introducing the wee-est portion of it into the 
 orifices of the cut fruit. When this is complete, set 
 it on a charcoal-fire covered over with ashes, and let 
 it stew gently till it is ready to serve. The time usu- 
 ally required is two hours or two hours and a half. 
 The ' stuffing ' consists of yolk and white of eggs 
 boiled hard, of tarragon and chervil, of breadcrumbs 
 (sifted), of an onion or two (cooked), of a spice of 
 garlic; the whole well chopped and mixed together
 
 460 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 TOR 
 
 (not till it is a paste), and at last having some grated 
 Gruyere cheese (de premiere qualite) added on to it. 
 All this 'stuffing' must be so delicately spread over 
 the tomatoes that it forms a manner of light crust; 
 and previously to being carried to table it must be 
 cunningly 'browned' by a very skilful hand. The 
 whole time of its stewing it has to be unremittingly 
 watched, for if it gets dry, oil must be gently dropped 
 in, and if a danger of wet shows itself, it must be 
 obviated by a pinch of the finely -grated cheese. It 
 is a plat calling forth every quality of a first-rate 
 cook; but when it succeeds, it amply justifies the 
 high reputation of the Provencal chefs." 
 
 TORTUE (Fr.) Turtle. 
 
 TOURNEDOS OF BEEF Small thin beef- 
 steaks briskly fried. They are served in crown- 
 shape with a sauce in the center. 
 
 TRAGACANTH Gum dragon; used for making 
 gum -paste ornaments for cakes. It becomes like 
 flour paste when soaked in water, and is then mixed 
 with sugar and starch. 
 
 TRIPE It consists of the first stomach of the ox. 
 The fibre differs from that of meat; is both nutritious 
 and of easy digestion. To cleanse tripe is quite a 
 trade of itself, it being an object to make the finished 
 product as white as possible; the method is to steep 
 the tripe in lime water or in lye water for 2 or 3 days 
 and then scrape away the outer coating, after which 
 it is soaked in several waters for some days longer. 
 The hotel buyer finds it in market ready -prepared, 
 either uncooked and fresh or in kegs in spiced vin- 
 egar ready -cooked. The raw tripe requires 10 hours 
 slow boiling to make it tender for the subsequent 
 modes of dressing; the soused tripe is used in all the 
 same ways, and if desired can be divested of most 
 of the vinegar by soaking in water with a little soda; 
 simple washing in one water is, however, generally 
 a sufficient preparation. SAID ABOUT TRIPE "The 
 Greeks devoured tripe with much complacency, re- 
 garding it, indeed, as a dainty fit for heroes. It 
 formed the chief dish at the banquets of men who 
 met to celebrate the victory of mortals and gods over 
 the sacrilegious Titans." "The Carleton Club has a 
 famous specialty of broiled honey-comb tripe with 
 butter." "Well-dressed tripe with its natural ac- 
 companiment onions is an excellent supper-dish, 
 as it is equally digestible as a sole." "Those who 
 are fond of tripe I should advise to instruct their 
 cooks to use white crystal sugar in the cooking, say 
 one ounce to the pound of meat, to be stirred in im- 
 mediately before being served." TRIPE A LA MODE 
 DE CAEN "Happening to be at Caen I took steps to 
 learn exactly how the tripe, for which this town is 
 so famous, is prepared. Strangers sometimes wish 
 to regale themselves with this dish; but if they 
 happen to partake of it on a week-day, they run 
 great risks of being disappointed, for it is on Sun- 
 days only that the wholesale manufacture takes 
 place. Every Saturday the lovers of tripe carry 
 dishes, soup-plates, and other receptacles to the dif 
 
 TRI 
 
 ferent shops. The money to pay for each portion is 
 invariably put in the bottom of each plate. At some 
 shops these dishes come in by dozens, and long jour- 
 neys are often undertaken by customers to reserve 
 the quantities they desire at the shops in good re- 
 pute. For if the preparation of tripe is a general in- 
 dustry here, one only finds that fine gold-colored 
 sauce, which is so justly appreciated, at those houses 
 where only the best ingredients are used, one of the 
 principal of which is the good butter of the district. 
 The following is the recipe usually followed, and is 
 suited to all countiies: .Take some fine fresh tripe, 
 bleached and well washed in warm water. Rinse it 
 thoroughly, and let the water run off completely. 
 Cut the tripe into two-inch squares. Bone 4 COW- 
 
 TROPHY OF PIGEONS [BOXED]. 
 
 On shell-shaped dish; stand of white wax or 
 
 mutton fat cast in mould. 
 
 heels, and cut them into pieces; take an ox-tail and 
 cut it into several pieces. Take a large narrow- 
 mouthed stone jar, put in it first a layer af tripe, then 
 a layer of onions, next your pieces of cow-heel, then 
 the ox-tail, then the rest of the tripe. Add a good 
 handful of leeks, parsley, thyme, and laurel-leaves, 
 plus i onion into which you have stuck 6 cloves. 
 Cover the whole with i kilo of butter (2 Ibs. 3}^ oz.), 
 and i kilo of good fresh beef-kidney fat. Pour in 2 
 litres (4J pts.) of caramelized water, 2 glasses of 
 brandy, and hermetically close the jar. Put it into 
 an oven, and let it bake for 10 hours. You will thus 
 obtain tripe of most excellent quality." A TRIPE 
 DINNER A company having been formed to estab- 
 lish and conduct a number of tripe houses or restau- 
 rants, the directors had a sample dinner prepared
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 461 
 
 ' TRO 
 
 where the principal dishes were "Tripe a /'An- 
 glaise" (broiled), "Fried Tripe a la Soubise" (with 
 pure'e of onions), "Tripe a la Milanaise" (in tomato 
 sauce), "Baked Tripe and Onion Sauce." TRIPE A 
 LA CREOLE Cut \% Ibs. of tripe into narrow strips, 
 put in a saucepan with enough gravy stock to cover 
 it, add }^ Ib. of tomatoes, some chopped onion, a 
 clove of garlic, little olive-oil, salt, Worcestershire 
 sauce, and red peppers. Stew gently until well done, 
 and serve. TRIPE A LA LYONNAISE Cut in strips, 
 mixed with fried onions and espagnole, or meat- 
 gravy. TRIPE A LA POULETTE Take the thickest 
 and whitest tripe, cut it into thin slices, and put 
 them in a stewpan with a little white gravy, i spoon- 
 ful of vinegar, a little lemon- juice and grated lemon- 
 peel; add the yolk of i egg well beaten, with a little 
 cream and chopped parsley; shake together over a 
 slow fire until the gravy is as thick as cream, but do 
 not let it boil; served with sippets of toasted bread. 
 FRIED TRIPE -Wiped dry, dipped in egg and cracker 
 dust, fried. TRIPE IN BATTER Pieces about 2% 
 
 TRU 
 
 well together. FILLETS OF TROUT Are prepared 
 in precisely the same way as fillets of salmon; the 
 fillets are dipped in beaten egg, drained, and rolled 
 in fine bread-crumbs, and fried a light brown color 
 in boiling lard or oil. 
 
 TRUFFLE A species of fungus which grows 
 several inches under-ground, but never appears 
 above the surface. It is one of the articles of great 
 luxury in France and Italy, where it grows. As it 
 cannot be cultivated but grows spontaneously, the 
 harvest is extremely uncertain and prices often run 
 up to an extravagant height. This, however, is one 
 of its attractions. Brillat-Savarin remarked: "Per- 
 haps if they were not expensive, but were within 
 the reach of everybody, ive should not prize them so 
 highly." It is said that the gray (inferior) truffle 
 has been found in Massachusetts and Pennsylvania, 
 and the black truffle, equal to the Perigord truffle, 
 has been dug up in Virginia. As to the color, how- 
 ever, some authorities contend that the gray or 
 white truffle is the black truffle in its unripe state. 
 
 inches square dipped in fritter batter and fried in a 
 kettle of hot lard or oil; served for breakfast. 
 
 TROPHY A general designation for a highly 
 decorated piece of cooks' work, of no particular 
 form, but in any form. Trophies of game are some- 
 times composed of cooked game of several kinds 
 with their skins or feathers replaced, beaks and claws 
 gilded, etc. ; but any conspicuously ornamental piece 
 may be called a trophy. 
 
 TROUT Brook trout are generally fried or 
 broiled, though the lake trout found in Hamilton 
 County, Seneca Lake, etc., are better boiled, and 
 served with a simple sauce of parsley and butter. 
 BROILED TROUT The following is a choice old rec- 
 ipe for dressing trout: Take out the entrails, cut the 
 fish across the side and wash them; fill the cuts with 
 thyme, marjoram, and parsley, chopped fine; set the 
 gridiron on a charcoal fire, rub the bars with suet, 
 and lay the trouts on, basting them with fresh butter 
 until they are well broiled; serve with a sauce of 
 butter and vinegar and the yolk of an egg beaten 
 
 They are found underground by means of dogs and 
 pigs trained to hunt them by the scent. The canned 
 and bottled truffles obtainable at the fancy grocery 
 stores serve a purpose in decorating dishes and fill- 
 ing out the names of dishes in genuine style, but 
 they possess little, if any, of the perfume and flavor 
 of the fresh article. A BAD TRUFFLE HARVEST 
 There has been a rise in the price of Perigord truf- 
 fles, and the Parisian chefs are much concerned at 
 the high cost of these delicacies, which now com- 
 mand no less than $3 a pound. The less savory 
 Piedmont and Dauphine species, which fastidious 
 cooks despise, may be had for $2. These are sold 
 to poultrymen and pork butchers to stuff turkeys, 
 &c. There is so much difference in the quality and 
 flavor of truffles, that caterers for epicurean tastes 
 very rarely buy any but the real Perigord, which 
 has a peculiar and delicious aroma, A GOOD TRUF- 
 .FLE HARVEST A Paris correspondent writes: "It 
 is gratifying LO learn that the truffle crop, now in 
 process of gathering, is to be a very abundant one,
 
 462 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 and a single house at Perigeaux, which is the center 
 of the truffle trade, purchased three and a half tons j 
 last week. Some of the truffles in this lot weighed ; 
 over one pound each, this being a very uncommon ; 
 weight to attain: and it may be assumed, therefore, 
 that truffles will be cheaper than they have been for 
 the last few seasons." TRUFFLES A LA SERVIETTE 
 Truffles in a napkin. The largest truffles are 
 baked in the coals like potatoes, and served in a 
 folded napkin. TRUFFES AU SUPREME The best 
 recipe for cooking truffles is Truffes au Supreme, 
 
 for which proceed as follows: One dozen fine truf- 
 fles, black with large grain are best; put them to 
 boil in half a botte of old madeira, with two little 
 liqueur-glasses of fine champagne cognac, gray salt, 
 a pinch of cayenne, a clove minus its head. Let all 
 this boil together for the space of half an hour, then 
 withdraw the truffles and place them in a timbale, 
 reduce the liquor in which they have been boiled to 
 one half, add half a spoonful of meat-glaze, "body" 
 the sauce with some good butter, pour it over the 
 truffles and serve at once. TURKEY STUFFED WITH 
 TRUFFLES See Dindon Truffe. 
 
 TUNNY-A fish like the Spanish mackerel, found 
 in the Mediterranean. It is taken also in Florida 
 waters and known as the horse mackerel. Tunny 
 is esteemed by the Italians; they preserve it in oil 
 and "thon " prepared in various ways is very fre- 
 quently met with in European menus, but oftenest 
 among the hors cFtzuvres. 
 
 TURBAN Crown shape; anything built up in 
 such shape in a dish or formed in a turban mould. 
 
 TURBOT (Fr.) Turbot; same in both tongues. 
 
 TURBOT This is the most highly esteemed of 
 all flatfish, not only on account of its intrinsic ex- 
 cellence, but because of its favorable shape for the 
 purposes of decoration. Famous as it is, and often 
 appearing in American menus, it is .not found in 
 American waters any more than is the sole. It is 
 very probable that in many esses where the bill of 
 fare offers turbot the place is filled with plaice or 
 large flounder or fluke for a substitute; but on the 
 other hand the English turbot is unlike most fish in 
 being the better for keeping a short time and the 
 fish brought over by the mail steamers are still in 
 excellent condition, so that genuine turbot is not out 
 
 TUR- 
 
 of the question when a rarity is desired. SAID 
 ABOUT TURBOT A tujbot, if kept two or three days, 
 will eat much finer than a very fresh one; it being 
 only necessary to sprinkle the fish with salt, and 
 hang it by the tail in a cool place. Before putting 
 it into the kettle make an incision in the back, rub 
 it well with salt, and then with a cut lemon. If a 
 turbot be boiled too fast it will be woolly." "You 
 may serve up salmon with as much ornament as you 
 will, but a turbot asks for nothing but aristocratic 
 simplicity. On the day after he makes his first ap- 
 pearance it is quite another affair. It may then be 
 disguised; and the best manner of effecting this is 
 to dress him a la Bechamel." "The great French 
 cook Careme never sent any other sauce than melt- 
 ed butter to table with turbot." Notwithstanding 
 'he foregoing remark a "turbot ;i la Careme" is 
 now a complicated dish of boiled turhot covered 
 
 with a creamy stew of small shellfish. The turbot 
 is epecially adapted to be cooked by boiling sim- 
 mering in court bouillon but is also cooked in all 
 other ways of any kind of fish. TURBOT FINS 
 " The thick part of the fins and the gelatinous skin 
 are the parts of the fish most relished by epicures. 
 \Vheif preparing it for cooking on no account cut 
 off the fins." TURBOT GRILLE A LA VATEL 
 Broiled small turbot served with mussel sauce and 
 crayfish. TURBOT A La RELIGEUSE Convent style ; 
 boiled, served in Hollandaise sauce, sprinkled with 
 chopped tarragon, and garnished with hard-boiled 
 egg. FILETS DE TURBOT P^KisiENXE-Take a small 
 and fat Dover turbot, and cut the four fillets obtained 
 from the fish into scallops, well shaped and trimmed. 
 Prepare a forcemeat of whiting, mixed with puree 
 of fresh mushrooms, and spread this forcemeat over 
 the fillets very smooth. A good mushroom sauce 
 should be poured over them. TURBOT A LA Vic- 
 TORlA-Simmered in court-bouillon till tender, dished 
 the white side uppermost on a folded napkin or lace 
 edged fish paper; the whole white surface sprinkli-d 
 with lobster coral; decorated with stuffed olives and 
 pickled cranberries. 
 
 TURKEY A turkey cock is best for roasting, a 
 hen for boiling; and be sure it is properly cooked, 
 for half -cooked poultry is simply uneatable. " A 
 turkey boiled is a turkey spoiled," runs the old pro-
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 463 
 
 TUR 
 
 verb uncompromisingly; bxit a change is always 
 pleasant, and, in spite of the dogmatic old law, a 
 properly boiled turkey is uncommonly good eating. 
 WILD vs. TAME TURKEYS The wild turkey is afar 
 more excellent table bird than the domestic turkey; 
 in fact there is no comparison. The barnyard can 
 not give that flavor and that texture which testify to 
 wild berries, seeds and nuts, fragrant grasses and 
 pungent buds eaten in the freedom of the wilderness. 
 In short the true, the genuinely patriotic Thanks- 
 giving roast is the body of a wild turkey. The 
 great day comes just at the time when spring- 
 hatched birds are coming to maturity, plump and 
 tender, juicy as ripe fruitand flavored by thesubtlest 
 processes of nature to a delicate nicety which no 
 cook may hope to imitate. The epicure knows this 
 flavor and values it, and the wild turkey should 
 bring twice the price of a domestic one in the mar- 
 ket. " Lord Lome's attempt to acclimatize the wild 
 turkey has so far proved successful, and there seems 
 no reason why it should not be bred throughout the 
 country and take its place on the menu side by side 
 with the wild duck." 
 
 TURTLE Half a dozen great turtles in the 
 United States alone give their tender flesh to epi- 
 cures, and minister to aldermanic amplitude. These 
 all come out of the sea, and the chief of them is he 
 of the green tint. A salt water turtle, weighing 
 500 pounds, was captured &t the mouth of the Spur- 
 wink Rtver, in Maine, by two brothers named Jor- 
 dan. It seems the monster got entangled in the 
 nets these men had set, and they fastened to the tur- 
 tle and towed him ashore. Monday they sold him 
 to Captain Howard Knowlton, for his garden at 
 Peaks' Island. The price paid for the turtle was 
 $50. So broad is the shell of this monster, that four 
 boys found room to stand thereon, and the turtle 
 was strong enough to crawl along with this load. 
 A MAMMOTH TURTLE While the steamer Flora 
 Temple, of Jacksonville, Fla., was cruising near the 
 snapper banks yesterday about fifteen miles off 
 shore, Captain Montcalm Broward observed an 
 immense black object floating on the surface of the 
 water. Upon approaching it he discovered that it 
 was an immense turtle of some sort, which was 
 lazily sleeping on the surface of the water. The 
 captain secured a harpoon, and when near enough 
 he dexterously threw the weapon and succeeded in 
 fixing it firmly in the back of the monster. It was 
 found impossible to raise this mountain of flesh to 
 the deck of the boat, so the captain attached a haw- 
 ser to the harpoon and, taking it in tow, brought it 
 up to the city, arriving at Decottes' woodyard about 
 5 o'clock, when the huge object was hauled out upon 
 the shore, where its great size soon attracted a large 
 crowd that gazed with wonder upon the strange 
 visitor. The weight of the captain's catch was va- 
 riously estimated to be from 1000 to 1,500 pounds. 
 It measured across the anterior limbs fully eight 
 feet two inches, was seven feet two inches from the 
 end of the nose to the tip of the tail, and perhaps 
 
 TUR 
 
 eight feet in circumference. The captain called his 
 catch a tortoise, but the News-Herald man identi- 
 fied it as a peculiarly splendid specimen of the trunk 
 or leathery turtle (Spharffis coriacea.) This great 
 sea denizen inhabits the Gulf stream along the At- 
 lantic shores and elsewhere. It does not have a 
 shell, but is covered with a leathery skin, with 
 seven longitudinal ridges. It is the largest of the 
 turtle tribe. TURTLE STEAKS The flesh of the 
 turtle is called " Barbadoes beef" in the \Vest In- 
 dies. Turtle steaks and turtle fins are favorite 
 breakfast dishes in the Antilles. TURTLE PIE 
 There are many ways of cooking turtles in the Ba- 
 hamas, where they are largely caught. The favorite 
 plan is to make the bulk of the flesh into a kind of 
 hash, well doctored with port and other wines, and 
 then to serve it up in the shell covered with crust, 
 so that it looks like a kind of meat pie. This is 
 called "baked turtle." TURTLE SOUP THICK OR 
 LICE The turtle is killed by cutting off the head, 
 hung up by the hind flippers to bleed, then lowered 
 into a kettle of boiling water and parboiled, if con- 
 venient, but if not, can be cut up raw, as it is done 
 in the New Orleans fish markets, where turtle is 
 sold in cuts as wanted like ahy other raw meat. 
 The object of scalding is to make the shell separate 
 easily and allow the outer skin to be peeled from 
 the fins. When opened the gall bladder and in- 
 testines are taken out and thrown away, the eggs, 
 if any, saved, and the green fat found under the 
 shells is saved separately, the turtle meat allowed 
 for the soup, and the chopped up shells are then 
 put on to boil in water. In another boiler is made 
 the same preparation as for espagnole (which see) 
 of fried slices of ham, veal, onions and other vege- 
 tables, spices and herbs in butter, brown rcux 
 added, and veal or beef broth and the turtle broth, 
 which are all then allowed to simmer slowly for 
 some time; the ronx of butter and flour having 
 thickened the soup, it requires stirring and 
 care to prevent burning. The remaining op- 
 eration is to strain the soup from the mixed 
 ingredients, skim off the fat, put in the turtle 
 meat cut in pieces, the turtle eggs, pieces of green 
 fat, salt and cayenne, and madeira or sherry, and 
 little lemon juice. TURTLE SOUP A LA CREOLE 
 The only difference from the foregoing is the addi- 
 tion to the boiling soup before straining of a large 
 proportion of stewed tomatoes, about one-fourth of 
 the whole being tomatoes before straining. TURTLE 
 SOUP CLEAR Is made in both of the ways just de- 
 scribed, with the single difference that no roux or 
 other thickening is put in. Cooks, who have a reg- 
 ular daily habit of making a clear consommfi of some 
 kind for dinner, often proceed in a different way by 
 seasoning and clarifying the turtle broth and color- 
 ing it, adding the cubes of turtle meat at the mom. nt 
 of serving. Turtle soup is not nearly so well known 
 or highly thought of in the United States as in En- 
 gland, where it is and has long been almost a na- 
 tional dish, noth with standing their turtles have to
 
 464 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 TUR 
 
 be imported from this side. This is on record since 
 So years ago: Turtle Soup "The usual allowance 
 at a turtle feast is six pounds live weight per head ; 
 at the Spanish dinner, at the City of London Tavern, 
 August, i SoS, 400 guests attended, and 2,500 Ibs. of 
 turtle were consumed." Appropos of turtle soup 
 and turtle steak, it was Artemus Ward who said: 
 "As for me, give me turtle or give me death. What 
 is life without turtle? Nothing! What is turtle 
 without life? Nothinger still !" 
 
 TURTLE EGGS Turtle eggs are held in great 
 esteem wherever obtainable, equally by Europeans 
 as by others. These eggs have a very soft shell, 
 and are about the size of ordinary pigeon's eggs. 
 The mother turtles lay three or four times a year, 
 at the rate of from 140 to 200 eggs each laying. The 
 Orinoco and Amazon Indians obtain from these eggs 
 a kind of clear sweet oil, which they use in much 
 the same way as we do butter. In the month of Feb- 
 ruary, wnen the high waters of the Orinoco have 
 receded, millions of turtles come on shore to deposit 
 their eggs, which they always carefully cover over 
 with the sand. The natives about the mouth of the 
 mighty River Amazon alone, gather some 5,000 jars 
 of the oil, and each' jar of oil represents the product 
 of over 5,000 of these turtle eggs. 
 
 W. 
 
 WOODCOCK Small game-bird larger than a 
 snipe; in season 5 months, September to January in- 
 clusive. SAID ABOUT WOODCOCK "There is noth- 
 ing in the whole miindus edibilis equal to a well- 
 prepared woodcock. To no other bird do we pay 
 such homage: is is the glory of the gourmet, the 
 pride of the cook, the well-beloved of all men; the 
 height of gustatory excitement, the consummation 
 of all luxury; succulent as regards its flesh, volatile 
 touching its elements, and perfect respecting its fla- 
 vor." "The gourmets have away of knowing when 
 the flesh of the woodcock is arrived at the degree of 
 flavor required to be sought after. The bird is sus- 
 pended by the beam-feather of the middle of its tail; 
 when the body gets loose and full, then is the time 
 to eat it." "In one respect the woodcock (and also 
 his cousin, the snipe) is more honored than any 
 other kind of game. He is never drawn; every 
 morsel of him is eaten, to the last entrail. The 
 choicest bit is the head, the thigh is finer, the trail is 
 considered superlative. The usual way of roasting 
 this bird is to tie him up in slices of bacon, and hang 
 him, tail downwards, before the fire. Under each 
 bird is put a slice of bread, toasted a delicate brown, 
 and on to this the trail drops. Sometimes when half 
 done the trail is removed, mixed with bacon fat, 
 chopped shallot and crumbs of bread, salt and pep- 
 per, and then spread upon the toast, which is re- 
 turned to the pan until the bird is finished. Lemon 
 
 WOO 
 
 in slices is served with him." "It is a bad plan to 
 'spit* any small birds; they should be tied to a spit, 
 and, if roasted in the contrivance which the French 
 call a rotisscire, they stand a better chance of being 
 artistically roasted." "When roasted, woodcocks 
 and snipes ought to be, as the French term it, vert- 
 cuit that is to say, underdone. As is well known, 
 they must not be drawn; the gizzard alone is ex- 
 tracted from the inside with the point of a skewer, 
 inserted in the side of the bird, which is then trussed 
 in the usual way, and wrapped up in a slice of fat 
 bacon tied round with string. Fifteen minutes is 
 sufficient time to roast a woodcock before a brisk 
 fire." WOODCOCK PIE "Snipes and woodcocks 
 are plentiful in Ireland. In accordance with ancient 
 custom, the Lord-Lieutenant sends every year as a 
 Christmas present to the Queen a monster game-pie 
 composed of 2 doz. woodcocks and about 100 snipes. 
 The birds are boned and stuffed with a farce of 
 
 WOODCOCK BECASSE. 
 
 foie gras aux truffes, and the crust is elaborately 
 decorated with appropriate designs." WOODCOCK 
 COOKED iy AMERICAN STYLE Picked and singed 
 while fresh; head skinned; eyes, crops, and gizzards 
 removed; trail chopped with two chicken livers, salt, 
 pepper, butter, and spread on slices of toast. Birds 
 with slices of fat pork on breasts roasted in hot oven 
 15 minutes, toast with trail set in oven 5 minutes; 
 woodcocks served on the toast. BECASSES A LA 
 PIEMONTAISE Woodcocks roasted, served with 
 game sauce and truffles. FILETS DE BECASSES A LA 
 TALLEYRAND Breasts of woodcocks in form of a 
 crown, with croutons of fried bread spread on the 
 trails, same size as the fillets; fumet sauce with 
 truffles in the center. FILETS DE BECASSES A LA 
 LUCULLUS Breasts of woodcocks coated with force- 
 meat and served on a border of toasted bread, with 
 a thick purge of woodcocks piled in the center, and 
 game sauce around. SALMIS DE BECASSES Wood- 
 cocks are the best of all birds for a salmis. TURBAN 
 DE BECASSES AUX CHAMPIGNONS The birds cut in 
 halves and dished in crown shape with game sauce 
 and mushrooms. CHAUDFROID DE BECASSES 
 Woodcocks roasted, cut in joints, coated by dip- 
 ping in thick chaudfroid of game sauce; decorated; 
 eaten cold.
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 How TO FOLD NAPKINS 
 
 With Many Handsome Styles and Diagrams 
 Which Show How it is Done. 
 
 CHIIC-A.C3-O. ILL. 
 
 JESSUP WHITEHEAD & CO. 
 
 PUBLISHERS HOTEL COOK BOOKS. 
 1899.
 
 .Entered according to Act of Congress in the Office of the Librarian, at Washington, by 
 JESSUP WHITEHEAD, 1887 and 1889. All rights reserved.
 
 CONTKNTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Introduction 5 
 
 The Escutcheon 7 
 
 The Chestnut Pocket 8 
 
 The Shield 8 
 
 The Mitre.... 8 
 
 The Cornucopia 9 
 
 The Crown . 9 
 
 The Scroll 10 
 
 The Slippers 11 
 
 The Cocked Hat, or Boat . 11 
 
 Another Boat 12 
 
 The Hamburgh Drum 13 
 
 The Heraldic Rose and Star j 14 
 
 The Minarettes 14 
 
 The Shell 15 
 
 The Fan 15 
 
 The Rosette Fan 16 
 
 The Victoria Regia 16 
 
 The Swan 16 
 
 Lorgnettes , 17 
 
 The Pyramid 17 
 
 The Fleur-de-Lys 18 
 
 The Archbishop's, or Double Mitre 18 
 
 The Bread Basket 19 
 
 The Flower Basket '. 20 
 
 The Imperial Crown 20 
 
 The Double Horn of Plenty 21 
 
 The Colonne de Triomphe , 21 
 
 The Tulip 22 
 
 The Bridal Serviette J 23 
 
 The Prince of Wales's Feather ;_ 24 
 
 The Arrow Head 25 
 
 The Menu Holder ._ 25 
 
 Mercury's Cap.. 26 
 
 The Sail Boat 27 
 
 Hotel Napkin Folding , 28 
 
 (3)
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The folding of the serviette may often be made complimentary to the guest. 
 Not only does "the Bridal" point out its special application; but "the Crown," 
 "the Prince of Wales's Feather," and "the Mitre." "The Boat" is appropriate 
 \vhen a naval chief is the honored guest; "the Colonne de Triomphe," for the 
 entertainment of a hero fresh from a new victory; "the Victoria Regia" fora 
 distinguished botanist, and "the Fan" for a reigning belle, so may "the Cocked 
 Hat " be made available when a military hero is entertained, and " the Heraldic 
 Rose " for a guest whose hobby is with things that appertain to the board. 
 
 In the days of our forefathers the quantity and quality of the viands were 
 thought of more consideration than the appointments of the table. Provided the 
 hospitable board groaned beneath the combined weight of substantial food and a 
 silver service, the banquet was pronounced magnificent. Now we have changed 
 all that. The contents of the dishes have become secondary in importance to the 
 decorations. The eye must be feasted as well as the palate. Heavy silver 
 ornaments have given place, or at least are associated with, vases of crystal and 
 abundance of flowers, with scent fountains and the choice fruit selected for des- 
 sert. The folding of the serviette, or table napkin, was always a matter of atten. 
 tion ; at the present moment it is doubly so, when the luxury of table decorations 
 are carried to such an extent that ingenuity is constantly on the strain, not only 
 to produce every possible variety of cartes de menu, but even fanciful stands to 
 hold them or the guests' name-cards in a prominent position. The parlor maid 
 or the waiter, or the dainty mistress of the house herself, must look to their 
 laurels in the matter of folding serviettes, or the other showy trifles placed on the 
 board will cast the attractions of the table napkin completely into the shade. To 
 fold them well in the more elaborate styles, it is necessary that they should be 
 made of very fine, but rather stout damask, starched more or less, quite fresh and 
 nearly new. Old damask, that is soft, will not take the more elaborate forms. 
 Each serviette, previous to folding it, should be laid on the ironing-board damped 
 with (raw) starch, smoothed with a hot iron, and immediately folded whilst crisp 
 and steaming. It not only folds better, but preserves the form longer by such 
 means; and unless this is attended to designs like "the Fan," "the Victoria 
 Regia," "the Bridal," and "the Colonne de Triomphe," could not effectually be 
 made. "The Boat" and "the Basket" also require very stiff serviettes. The 
 serviettes must be exactly square, and pains taken to make the sides perfectly 
 even and true. 
 
 (5)
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 FOLDING SERVIETTES. 
 
 THE ESCUTCHEON. 
 
 B 
 
 Fig. 1. Fig. 2, 
 
 This is one of the easiest methods possible of ornamentally folding a serviette, 
 and we recommend a novice to commence with it. Indeed, we have arranged, 
 the folding as progressively as possible. Although it will sit more crisp and fresh 
 in appearance if made with a fine new well starched material, the Escutcheon can 
 ^ made very well with old or even crumpled damask, though, of course, servi- 
 ettes should always be scrupulously clean and smooth. First, fold the serviette in 
 half lengthwise; and then fold it in half again lengthwise, keeping the edges to 
 the lower end, which comes where in the diagram A A and B B are marked (see 
 fig. i). It is necessary to be always very precise in "making the folds, bringing 
 the dges and corners exactly to meet, a rule which applies to all the designs; 
 but without strict attention to which, the more elaborate patterns cannot be 
 represented. 
 
 Now turn over each end of the serviette 
 (which you have already folded in four), in the 
 manner shown in fig. i, creasing it quite flat. 
 ( Then take one of the ends and roll it up in the 
 manner shown in fig. 2, from C to D. Take the 
 other end, E, and roll it in the same way. It is Fig- 4. 
 to be observed that these rolls are brought exactly to meet (not 
 to overlap) the triangle formed at the top. It is, however, 
 necessary to remark that the napkin is to be rolled in the 
 reverse way from that apparent in the illustration ; that is, to be rolled under and 
 not over, a difference which must not be neglected. Keep the rolls one in each 
 hand, and with a twist of the wrist bring over the roll C, to the point F (causing 
 the fold marked by the dotted line), and with a twist of the other wrist bring the 
 roll up to the same point to match it. Then lay it flat on the table, the rolls 
 underneath (see fig. 3), and keeping them down with the hand, raise the other 
 part and shape it as shown in fig. 4, and slip the dinner roll in the hollow at the back.
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 THE CHESTNUT POCKET. 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 Fold the serviette in half both ways, and open it again. Bring all the corners 
 ID the centre. .Turn it over and again bring all the corners to the centre. Turn 
 it back again and slip the chestnuts in the four pockets to be observed in fig. i. 
 
 Fig. 2, the Pocket Serviette, is made in the same way; but the corners are 
 brought three times, instead of twice, to the centre, turning it each time (see fig. 2). 
 
 THE SHIELD. 
 
 , 2, 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 The Shield is almost identical with the Escutheon; there is, however, a slight 
 difference, which forms a little variety and practice in the art of 
 napkin-folding. 
 
 First form fig. i, as for the Escutcheon. Next roll up the two 
 ends in the manner shown in fig. 2; that is, make the rolls out- 
 wardly, not under as in the previous direction. The serviette 
 will now resemble fig. 3. Then set it into form, and place 
 the bread inside. The face of it will stand perfectly upright 
 
 and resemble figure 4. 
 
 THE MITRE. 
 
 The Mitre is a well-known device, and one which always looks effective 
 It is not unlike the Crown. Fold the damask in half, and turn down the two 
 corners to meet at both ends, in the manner shown in fig. i, taking care to let 
 them meet very exactly and not overlap. Fold it in half at the line A to B, fig. 
 i, to ascertain the centre. Open this last fold again and bring the two points to 
 the centre like fig. 2. Fold these together at the dotted line with the points out-
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 9 
 
 side, let down one of these corners again, and turn in the two points A and B also, 
 to make a triangle uniform with the others: it will now resemble fig. 3. Turn the 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 Kg. 2. 
 
 Tig. 4. 
 
 serviette over; let down the point on that side: it will then resemble fig. 4. Turn 
 in the corners A and B, by the line marked. Turn up the point D to its former 
 
 Tig. 5. 
 
 Kg. 6. 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 position : it will now resemble fig. 5. Slip the hand inside the hollow to be found 
 at the broad end, and shape it like a cap, and the Mitre is complete. 
 
 THE CORNUCOPIA. 
 
 Cornucopias are easily folded, and very effective down a long dinner table, 
 with a single scarlet geranium flower at the apex 
 of each. Halve the serviette 
 lengthways; turn down the cor- 
 ners at the two ends to meet in 
 the centre and form a triangle, 
 like fig. 4, in the Crown. 
 
 Take the corners at the base and bring them to the apex, 
 
 like fig. i. Then double it together with folds inside: it will 
 
 now appear like fig. 2. At the side marked A, there are 
 
 three folds. Set it upright over the dinner roll, with two of these folds one side 
 
 and one on the other. Shape it nicely, keeping the space from B to C close. 
 
 THE CROWN. 
 
 This is a handsome design, and is one which requires very well starched 
 damask. The bread is placed inside, underneath the crown. Now that flowers 
 are so much used, nothing could have a more charming effect than a slight wreath 
 of flowers round the base of it, at the part marked A to B, in fig. i. Fig. 2 repre- 
 sents the serviette laid on the table. Fold it exactly in half from A to B, open 
 
 Fig. 3.
 
 10 
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 and fold the reverse way, from C to D. Open it again. These creases are merely 
 made to ascertain the true centre. As it lies, turn all the points to the centre, 
 
 C A 
 
 E 
 
 D 
 
 Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Tig, 3. 
 
 and crease down in the manner observed in fig. 3, which forms a diamond. Take 
 the four corners of the diamond and fold them to the centre again. The serviette 
 
 will still preserve the shape shown in 
 
 diagram fig. 3, but be smaller in size. 
 
 Bring the top, A, to the right hand, B, 
 
 and the left hand, B, to the other, A; it 
 
 will now resemble fig. 4. Fold down the 
 
 corners, E F and G H, parallel to the line 
 
 I J; it will now resemble fig. 5. Put the 
 
 hand inside it at the broad end, and shape 
 
 it like a cap, over the hand, folding one end into the other as 
 shown at C, in fig. 5. The stiffness of the damask should be sufficient to keep 
 these last folds in place; the corner fold should just be turned one corner within 
 the other as an envelope, and pinched, to secure its remaining firm. 
 
 THE SCROLL. 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 Pig. 2. 
 
 The Scroll is simple to 
 fold. It is represented com- 
 plete (fig. 3). The bread is 
 under the centre, on which 
 __ the name card mav be laid- 
 It does not require to be 
 stiff. First fold the serviette four times length- 
 ways. Fold down one end in the manner 
 shown at A, in fig. 2. Then fold the end A 
 completely across, forming the line, B B. Roll 
 up the end A, and produce the fig. 3. Treat the other side in the same way. 
 Fig. 3 illustrates the process. The space in the middle, A, fig. i, is closed over 
 the bread. 
 
 Fig. 3.
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 11 
 
 THE SLIPPERS. 
 
 Fig. ir~ FIC.2. 
 
 The Slippers are very easy to make. Double the serviette four times length- 
 ways. Then fold like fig. i. The ends are simply rolled, taking the corners '!.. 
 the method shown in fig. 2; bring- 
 ing them over as shown in fig. 3, 
 
 FIG3. 
 
 and with another turn forming the Slip- 
 pers (fig. 4). Secure the point at A, with 
 the left hand, whilst rolling up the other 
 side; and then hold both points together 
 with the left hand and place the right in 
 the top of the Slippers, setting them over the dinner roll, which should be placed 
 underneath at B, fig. 4; and the Slippers pinched close together at the top over 
 it. A few flowers in the hollows of the folds is a pretty addition. 
 
 THE COCKED HAT, OR BOAT. 
 
 Fig. ti. 
 
 Fold a serviette in half lengthways (see fig. i), then in half 
 again (fig. 2). Fold it lengthways again, with the edges inside, in 
 the way shown in fig. 3. Fold it in half lengthways at the dotted line with the 
 edges outside. Turn down the corners in the manner explained bv fig. 4, both 
 sides alike; it now resembles fig. 5. Turn in the superfluous end C, shown in 
 fig. 4, inside the hat: this makes it resemble fig. 6. Shape it with the hand and 
 slip it over the dinner bread. If the edges are left outside in folding (fig. 3), 
 when finished, a space will be offered at the top wherein a few flowers may be
 
 12 
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 placed. A Boat may also be folded by this diagram by reversing its position on 
 the plate. A still better way to make the Boat is to double a serviette in half 
 lengthways, and again the reverse way. Fold the two edges to the centre: this 
 makes an oblong. Turn it over on the other side. Turn two of the corners to 
 
 Fisr. 3. IIIIIHM E.I Fig. 4. Fig. 5. 
 
 meet in the centre ; must not be opposite corners, but both at the right end. 
 Turn the two left end corners half to the middle. Iron down. Then fold 
 the whole in half lengthways, having the corners inside. This completes the 
 Boat. Put the bread underneath. 
 
 ANOTHER BOAT. 
 
 The Boat is exceedingly pretty, especially if freighted with a few flowers. 
 The serviette should be well starched to sit firm and sharp, and must be an exact 
 square. First fold it in half like a shawl. Next take the corner A (fig. i), and 
 bring it to C. Turn over the serviette on the other side. Take the corner B, 
 and bring it to C in the same way, but on the other side: this forms fig. 2. Fold 
 
 FJG.2* 
 
 fig. 2 in half by the line in the centre, bringing D to E, and forming fig. 3. Fold 
 the point F to H. Turn over the serviette and fold G to H, on the other side: 
 this produces fig. 4. Fold the half of the end J to K, producing fig. 5. Fold L 
 to K, on the other side. These folds must be so made as to leave the upper part 
 of the serviette, which will now again open and look like fig. 3, from F to G. 
 
 Slip the hand inside here, round it open a little, and so bring F to meet G, mak- 
 ing it flat the reverse way: this is represented by fig. 6. Turn down the whole 
 point M to N, on the thinnest side, like fig. 7. Slip in the thumbs at the opening 
 at O in fig. 7, and holding the last fold firmly down ; dexterously turning the Boat 
 inside out: the inside fold resembles a capital A. Pinch the sides of the A the
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 13 
 
 other way, making it an A again ; and drawing out the Boat lengthways. Shape 
 it a little with the hand. The bread may be slipped under the centre, A, or cabin 
 of the Boat, provided it is not too large. A pretty addition to this would be to 
 attach the carte de menu, by the means of a Chinese ribbon, to a chip, spill, or 
 slender stick, and fix it in the Boat as a sail. The name card may also be attached 
 to resemble an additonal sail. 
 
 THE HAMBURG DRUM. 
 
 The first three folds are made like those of the Mitre ; namely, fold the 
 serviette in half lengthways. Turn down the corners like fig. i, fold it in half 
 across the centre, inwards, from A to B, keeping the corners inside. It will now 
 
 FI&2- FIS-3. FIG A 
 
 resemble fig. 2. Fold it again from C to D, into the shape of fig. 3. Let down 
 the point E ; turn down the corners F and G, to make a triangle uniform with the 
 others: thus you have fig. 4. Let down the corner H, as shown in fig. 5: this 
 
 FIG. 5. HG.6. FJ .7 
 
 corner must be the one that has the selvage on the lower corner. Make the fold 
 by the dotted line in fig. 5: this produces fig. 6. Take the upper fold at A and B 
 in the same diagram, open it back and crease it down to resemble fig. 7; turn the
 
 14 
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 napkin over. You now have fig. 8. Fold over the edges C and D to E, to match 
 the folds on the other side. Turn up the napkin again ; turn up the point C, a'nd 
 bring the corners, E and F, together likewise. Slip the hand into the hollow at 
 the base, as you did for the Mitre ; and place over the bread. 
 
 THE HERALDIC ROSE AND STAR. 
 
 FULL 
 
 F1G.3. 
 
 Spread a serviette, full size, flat on the table. It must be a perfect square, 
 exact at the corners. Bring the four corners exactly to the centre, in the way 
 described in fig. i. Take the corners A and B, and without turning the serviette, 
 again bring them to the centre, as shown in fig. 2. Bring C and D likewise to 
 the centre: this forms fig. 3. Take one corner and turn it under (not over as 
 before) by the dotted line e iof; turn under the other three the same way. Then 
 again bring all the four corners to the centre, on the upper side, as in fig. 2. 
 
 F1G.4-. 
 
 FI05. 
 
 Afterwards repeat turning all the corners under, as in fig. 3. Then once 
 more repeat fig. 2, and bring the remaining corners to the centre, uppermost. 
 Press the folds firmly down. Then, one at a time, turn the corners half back > 
 shaping them like little pockets, by slipping the fingers in at C (A to B, fig. 4), and 
 forming the corners out square. This makes the Rose. Or by turning it down 
 in the same way, without squaring out the corners, the Star, fig. 5, is made. Open 
 up the eight petals, to be found in the centre, and fit in the dinner roll. 
 
 THE MINARETTES. 
 
 The Minarettes is a design expressly originated for the present work. It 
 requires to be well stiffened. Fold the napkin in half. Turn down the corners 
 as in fig. i of the Mitre. Fold in half and turn in the corners till you have an 
 exact triangle as in the Mitre (see fig. i). Then let down the outer side of the 
 triangle. Fold the corners at both sides by the dotted lines, A and B (fig. i).
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 15 
 
 Take the outer pieces, C and D, and fold back so as to have two points alike. 
 Fold the lower end to match; halve it, and you will now have fig. 2. Fold up at 
 
 FIG.2. 
 
 . 3. 
 
 the dotted line. Pass the fold inside like fig. 3. Bend over the corners like fig. 
 4, and place the Minarettes over the roll. 
 
 THE SHELL. 
 
 The Shell requires a very stiff serviette. Fold 
 the two edges together in the centre, lengthways, 
 
 as shown in fig. i. Fold in half down the centre, also lengthways, leaving the 
 
 edges outside. Then crimp evenly in the manner shown in fig. 2. Open up the 
 
 top end, and turn down the edges each way, as they 
 
 appear in fig. 3. Keep the lower ends together like a 
 
 fan. If well donei 
 it can be balanced 
 on the plate by the 
 ends, in the man- 
 ner illustrated by 
 fig. 4. 
 
 THE FAN. 
 
 The fan is made 
 
 precisely like the Eg* fi. 
 
 Shell, only the edges are not turned down ; but in folding, at first, are kept inside. 
 The fan is placed in a glass, in the way shown in fig. 5. 
 
 It is, also, sometimes folded again before crimping three parts up. This 
 forms a double Fan, and the lower one should be pulled out a little by the fingers.
 
 16 
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 THE ROSETTE FAN. 
 
 The Rosette Fan is very handsome and uncommon, but difficult to make, 
 requiring very nice manipulation. First fold the serviette in half, lengthwavs, 
 the edges downward. As it lays on the table, make it into three equal folds, 
 lengthways. Then take the upper fold between the finger and thumb, length- 
 ways, and the lower fold between the second and third fingers of each hand. 
 Bring the lower fold up to within an inch and a half of the fold left, and the one 
 between the finger and thumb to within an inch and a half of that. The 
 hemmed edges ought to be an inch and a half below the last of the three plaits 
 you have now formed. Press them well down. Crimp as for the Rosette. Hold 
 what would be the handle of the Fan well in the left hand, and keep it all close 
 together. Insert right through the upper fold or plait the handle of a silver 
 fork, the flat way, and when right through, turn it, rounding out the plait like a 
 bullionne on a lady's dress. Treat the other two plaits in the same way. Then 
 put the handle end firmly in a glass and let the top spread out. The effect is 
 excellent. 
 
 THE VICTORIA REGIA. 
 
 This spirited design is difficult to accomplish, and requires 
 to be very stiff indeed. Fold the serviette in half twice, 
 
 Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3. 
 
 lengthways, keeping the hems to the edge. Then plait it as the Shell was plaited, 
 in the way shown in fig. i. The number of petals will depend on the number of 
 folds, which should be twice as many as were made for the Shell, the width being 
 only half as much. Keep the folds as close together as possible, and begin form- 
 ing the petals by drawing back the first hem, as the edge of the Shell was done. 
 Proceed to turn down the next fold and make another round of petals to meet the 
 first ones, and finish by making the last hem fold in the same way (fig. 2). Set it 
 round by bringing the two edges of the serviette together. It is not at all easy 
 to set the petals well. The bread is not to be placed in or under it; but a single 
 flower, such as a rose, may very properly be slipped into the heart. Fig. 3 
 represents the Victoria Regia, which should be placed in the centre of the plate. 
 
 THE SWAN. 
 
 The Swan is a very simple fold, yet one 
 requiring some knack to produce. The servi- 
 ette should be very stiff. Form a triangle by 
 folding it in half. Hold the point, A, between 
 the teeth; take C and B in each hand. Hold 
 it tight across the chest, so that from A to D it 
 FlG.I. is strained tight against you. Roll up the ends 
 
 B and C very tight, one in each hand, in the manner shown in fig. 2. The reason 
 it is held tight across the chest is to keep it plain at E ; otherwise it would curl up 
 to the top. Now bring the points B and C together (fig. 2). Bend over the point
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 17 
 
 A and shape the twisted pieces so as to give the appearance of a Swan. Our 
 illustration gives but a rough notion of it, as it is not easy to delineate well on 
 paper, and at the same time show the way of bending it. With a little manipula- 
 
 FIG 3. 
 
 tion, a very good imitation of a Swan may be produced. The centre piece is the 
 head and neck ; the twisted portions represent the outline of the breast, body 
 and the legs. 
 
 LORGNETTES. 
 
 Lorgnettes are very ^asy indeed, and are a neat design. Fold the serviette in 
 half lengthways. Fold back an inch, or an inch and a half, at the double end, 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 and bring it to the centre, in the same way observable in fig. . Turn it over on 
 the other side and roll both ends, one at a time, to the centre ; taking care to press 
 in with the fingers, as it is rolled, the tendency to bag up; so as to keep it smooth 
 
 FJG2. E1B.3." 
 
 outside, and the centre band tight. Stand it upright. The Lorgnettes do not 
 inclose the bread. 
 
 THE PYRAMID. 
 
 The Pyramid, provided the napkin is very stiff and fine, is easily made. 
 Double it in half one side within an inch of the other, so that it may be more 
 slender towards the point. Fold it in seven the narrow way, like fig. 3, in the 
 shell. Press these folds" down with an iron; then crimp them across with a paper 
 knife, folding it in and out the width of the knife. Lastly, join it round like a 
 pyramid, and stand it upright over the bread. For a bride, or a distinguished 
 guest, slender wreaths of flowers may be placed all round in every crimping.
 
 18 
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 THE FLEUR-DE-LYS. 
 
 The Fleur-de-Ljs should be folded with very stiff damask, a little damp, and 
 fresh ironed; but may be made with a small light damask, without starch, by 
 
 B 
 
 Cj 
 
 Rftfc 
 
 using a little pin at the back of the waist, marked C to D in diagram (fig. 
 5). Rich heavy damask of a large size is always tiresome to fold without starch' 
 although looking whiter, brighter, and handsomer on table. Lay the serviette 
 flat on the table: fold it in half; and in half again, lengthwise; keeping the 
 
 \ 
 
 Fie;. 2. 
 
 selvages all to the top. Halve it the narrow way, A to B (fig. i). Merely make 
 the crease, and open this last fold again : thus you have the centre marked. Take 
 
 the ends E and D, and fold them to the centre: 
 you thus have an oblong, equal to two squares. 
 Turn down the corner E, and you have a resem- 
 blance to fig. 2. Take the point D in that diagram, 
 and bring it to C. Take the point E and turn it 
 under to C, in the way shown in fig. 3. Treat the 
 point F in the same manner. Thus fig. 4 is made. 
 Double fig. 4 in half, flat from A to B. Hold it 
 tight between the thumb and finger at C and D. 
 Take hold of the points at A and pull them out 
 to resemble the petals of a Fleur-de-Lys, like fig. 
 Fig. 5. 5 . Turn up the corners, E and F, at right angles 
 
 to stand it upon, pinching the waist well in. If not quite stiff enough to stand 
 alone, after being pinched a moment, place a pin at the back of the waist; but 
 pins are always better avoided. 
 
 THE ARCHBISHOP'S, OR DOUBLE MITRE. 
 
 The Archbishop's, or Double Mitre, is exceedingly pretty, and may be folded 
 from any serviette. First fold the linen in half, and lay it flat on the table. Turn 
 down six inches from the top. Fold down an inch and a half of this at the edge, 
 and fold that over again ; the folds forming an outside band like that shown in
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 19 
 
 fig. i, from A to B. Raise the ends A and B in the hand, and form the point C, 
 in fig. 2, allowing the folds of the linen to overlap a little. Smooth it down flat, 
 
 c yfIK 
 
 Pi?. 1. 
 
 without raising or moving it from the table; fold the lower end the same, and 
 bring it up to D E, in fig. 3. Turn the fold D E, down 
 on the right side, and make another point with it like 
 that at C, in fig. 2, but a little lower, so as to show the 
 
 top point above it. Lastly, 
 
 fold up the lower edge F G } 
 
 about an inch and a half, to 
 
 form the band of the Mitre. 
 
 Bring the two ends F and G, 
 
 round to the back, to make 
 
 the shape of a cap, and in- 
 sert one in the other. If 
 
 large enough, fix it over the 
 
 dinner roll. If not, set it on 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 the table, and place the roll upright in the hollow. 
 guest, 
 
 THE BREAD BASKET. 
 
 The front should face the 
 
 Turn down the corners in the 
 
 Fold the serviette four times lengthways, 
 way observed in fig. i. Make C 
 
 the three standing folds 
 across the centre, the middle 
 one to project, C and D to 
 bend inwards. This makes 
 
 a. hill or ridge in the centre. 
 Fold back each corner at the 
 dotted lines F and C. Now 
 hold it erect like fig. 2. Pinch 
 it up together in a flat line. 
 
 Make a circle of it by bringing the ends together and inserting B in A. Place it 
 
 round the bread.
 
 20 
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 THE FLOWER BASKET. 
 
 Take a very stiff square of damask, and fold it exactly in half. Open and 
 fold in half the reverse way. The centre is now ascertained. 
 Fold all the corners very exactly to the centre. Iron them 
 
 Eg.l. Fig . o. Jig. 8. 
 
 down ; turn over, and again turn the corners to the centre. Turn the serviette 
 over again and take each corner from the centre, and fold it back at the half. 
 Then crease it from A to B (fig. i), open the crease, and fold it again from C 
 to D. Take it in the hand and bring the crease A to C, and C to B, and so all 
 round. This will enable you to make it stand. Hold the apex between the 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 fingers of one hand and square out the four sides. This makes it resemble fig. 2, 
 and completes it. A few flowers should be arranged in the compartments. For 
 
 variety the corners may be left upright, like fig. 3 
 fig. 4, a different design is obtained. 
 
 By reversing it, as shown in 
 
 k 
 
 THE IMPERIAL CROWN. 
 
 The Imperial Crown requires very stiff damask an exact square is best, and 
 either a very small serviette, or a very large one 
 folded in four, to reduce it to a quarter its size. 
 Lay it flat on the table: fold the end, A B, over to 
 the dotted line in the centre, C D. Do the same 
 the other side, 
 bringing E F to 
 C D. Then place 
 the end, A B, in 
 three folds, as for 
 a fan, the whole 
 length of the 
 Flfi.l. damask, and 
 
 F1C.2. 
 crease them down, making the folds exactly use the piece between A B, and the
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 21 
 
 fold at g, h. Then fold the end, E F, to match. Then bring the folded ends, 
 A B, to the centre, _/, crossing the folded part of one over the other where 
 they meet. The serviette will now look like fig. 2. Turn 
 the fold, E F, to the back and fold down. Next bring the 
 corner E, by the dotted line K L, completely across, like 
 fig. 3; the end N is to be level with the end E. The end N 
 
 is then to be crossed over to match, 
 
 and the end of the band inserted 
 
 in the folds of the other, so as to 
 
 hold firmly together. Put the hand 
 
 inside and shape it. When set 
 
 over the dinner roll it will stand 
 
 firm. It should be a full-sized roll 
 
 The front of the hat should face 
 
 the guest. If the carte de menu is 
 
 not too large, it may be placed in 
 
 FI0.3. 
 
 FIG .4. 
 
 the plaited fold at N, before crossing the ends over. 
 
 THE DOUBLE HORN OF PLENTY. 
 This requires a stiff serviette, damp and fresh ironed. It may, however, be 
 
 Fig.l. Fig. 2. 
 
 made from a limp one, if a small pin is inserted at each side, after the last fold. 
 
 Lay the serviette flat on the table; fold in four lengthwise, keeping all the sel- 
 vages one way. Turn the two ends to 
 meet in the centre. Turn that over, and 
 turn down two corners not at the selvage 
 edge, at the lines A to B, and C to D. 
 Turn it over and it will resemble fig. i. 
 Take the end C, and roll it over to D 
 (see fig. 2). Bring A to B in the same 
 manner, and complete the design. It is 
 most suitable for a Christinas dinner 
 party, when it may be filled with holly 
 or any bright flowers; or one space may 
 
 be filled with holly and the other with grapes, almonds, raisins, &c., to represent 
 
 plenty (see fig. 3). Pinch the horns down and hold them a minute, to make them 
 
 preserve their shape. 
 
 THE COLONNE DE TRIOMPHE. 
 
 This is difficult to fold, although it may be done with a soft damask. Starch 
 is, however, an improvement. The secret of success depends entirely on rolling 
 it very lightly. Lay the serviette flat on the table. From A to B (fig. i), fold 
 
 Fig. 3.
 
 22 
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 down about six inches, if it is a large serviette. After trying the fold once, by 
 
 FICil. 
 
 FIQ.2. 
 
 reference to the illustration, it will be seen if the proportion is properly kept. 
 The one which we have just folded ourselves, as a model, stands fifteen inches 
 
 FIE.3. 
 
 Rfi/H 
 
 high, eleven for the shaft of the column, and it is very erect and firm, although 
 
 made of limp damask. Fold the damask in half from C to 
 
 D (fig. i), to ascertain the half. In the left hand nip up the 
 
 corner E, as shown in the illustration; the centre C and the 
 
 corner G in the same way, like fig. 2, shaping them into 
 
 laurel leaves. Then pleat down the serviette, holding the 
 
 top still in the hand, in the way described in fig. 3. Next 
 
 take the end H (fig. 2), that is, the left hand lower corner, 
 
 and pass it completely round the serviette to the right, 
 
 bringing the selvage tight round from A to B in fig. 3. Lay 
 
 it on the table, holding the neck at E grasped in the hand, 
 
 at first; and tucking down and keeping tight the folds from 
 
 C to D (fig. 4), whilst rolling over the end E to F, as tightly 
 
 as possible, umbrella wise; pressing it on the table as \ou 
 
 roll it up, to keep it firm. Fasten the end with a little pin. 
 
 Then firmly tuck in the odd corners at the base, in the wav 
 
 half a pound of sugar or an ounce of almonds are turned 
 
 in. Twine a wreath of flowers around it. The artificial wreaths of small roses 
 
 or holly, sold at the grocers', are pretty for the purpose. Set it upright, and with 
 
 a little manipulation it will sit firm in the plate. 
 
 THE TULIP. 
 
 The Tulip requires a very stiff material. The folds are very simple, but 
 require nicety of fingering and pressure with a hot iron. Bring all the corners 
 
 FJG.5.
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 23 
 
 to the centre, as for the Crown. Bring the corners down to the centre again and 
 again; in all five times. Press it well. Finish all the serviettes to be folded 
 
 so far, and then recommence with the first by turning down all the corners one 
 by one, to form the Tulip petals, which should hang down in long points, like a 
 dog's ears. Place the Tulip on a glass. 
 
 THE BRIDAL SERVIETTE. 
 
 The Bridal Serviette is almost identical with the Pyramid, and is so called 
 
 because it is a favorite for wedding 
 breakfasts. At the top it is to be 
 decorated with a few flowers. For 
 
 B 
 
 FIB.I. FIG2. 
 
 the bride, stephanotis, white roses, or any white flowers available, mixed with a 
 little orange blossom. For the other guests, scarlet flowers. The serviette must 
 be very stiff and damp from fresh iron- 
 ing. Lay it on the table flat. Fold it not 
 in half, but within an inch and a half of 
 the top (see fig. i). Take the corners A 
 and B, and fold them to C and D again, 
 within an inch and a half of the last fold, 
 and like the last fold flat and straight 
 across. This produces fig. 2. Again take 
 the ends E and F and fold over to G and 
 H, within an inch and a half of the last 
 fold. This will probably about halve the 
 remaining piece; but that will depend 
 on the size of the serviette. Then fold 
 it the narrow way, backwards and for- 
 wards, as for a fan, nine times, creasing 
 it firmly down. Opening it as little as possible, turn down all the tops of the 
 folds in the way noticed in fig. 3, beginning at the top 6f the three tiers. Then 
 join it round, fixing the first fold over the last, and pinch it together at the top. 
 
 F1G.3.
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 THE PRINCE OF WALES'S FEATHER. 
 
 The Prince of Wales's Feather is a perfectly new design, invented especially 
 for the present work. It is simple in effect and very handsome in appearance. 
 It requires a very stiff crisp serviette. Lay the damask on the table, ironing it 
 
 Fie.i. 
 
 FIG.3, 
 
 FIG. 2. 
 
 damp. Fold it from fig. 2 in the Crown, from A to B, using the hot iron to 
 crease it. Without disturbing this fold, crease in half again the reverse way, 
 from C to D, thus reducing the size to a quarter. Smooth it with the iron. Next 
 fold this in half diagonally, like fig. 4 in the Crown. Observe fig. 4, in the 
 
 FIGA 
 
 F1Q.5 
 
 Fine: B 
 
 illustrations on the present page, carefully. Fold it in half from A to B, 
 using the iron; this will produce fig. 2. Make the fold C to B, on one side 
 only, in the manner shown in fig. 3. Then fold it back again at the dotted 
 line D, and it will resemble fig. 4. Fold the other side to match, always using 
 the iron to press every fold. Open it and it will resemble fig. 5, with the folds A, 
 C,. D. Make the folds, E, as shown in fig. 5, taking care not to flatten the other 
 fo ds, leaving the serviette 
 
 only just open enough to 
 
 make the folds, E, each side. 
 
 It now resembles fig. 6. 
 
 Bring the last two folds 
 
 quite flat and inside C and 
 
 D, and it will resemble fig. 7. 
 
 Treat the other side the 
 
 same, and then fold it in 
 
 half in the middle, A, and it 
 
 will resemble fig. 8. Now 
 
 allow it to open a little and 
 
 hold it by the apex, B, fig. 9. 
 
 Keep it very much indented Fig. 10. 
 
 in the centre (A to B); bring the wings or side feathers rather forward, and curl 
 over the three tips of the feathers by bending them with the fingers. 'Place it 
 upright in a wine glass or a slender single flower glass in the same manner as the 
 Fan is olaced. Fig. 10 shows the Prince of Wales's Feather complete. 
 
 FJQ*. 
 
 FJ6.9.
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 25 
 
 THE ARROW HEAD. 
 
 Fold the napkin in half lengthwise to the right, and turn down top edge A A 
 by dotted line X X to centre line C C; repeat the same with bottom edge B B by 
 dotted line O O to centre line C C, as shown in fig. i ; it w ill then 
 appear like fig. 2. Next proceed to fold in half towards you by 
 
 Fig. 1. ' 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 turning down top edge D D by centre line C C to bottom edge E E, which makes 
 it resemble fig. 3. In this figure lift up the edge F F at bottom, and bring the 
 right-hand top corner C, tucking it under edge held up by left hand until it comes 
 level with centre line X X ; repeat the same with left-hand top corner C, bring it 
 underneath bottom edge F F, which must now be held up by right hand until the 
 corner C comes level with centre line X X, and level with the right-hand corner 
 previously tucked underneath; it will then form fig. 4. Now fix it upon the bottom 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
 edge A A, open out the sides right and left at B and C equal distances all round. 
 It is then finished as seen in fig. 5. Dinner rolls can be placed in any of the 
 recesses. 
 
 THE MENU HOLDER. 
 
 Fold the napkin into three parts lenghtwise, as seen in fig. i, then take the 
 right-hand end A A and fold in to the centre marked X X; repeat the same with 
 left hand B B to the centre line X X, depicted in first fig.; it then forms fig. 2. In 
 this diagram turn down the right-hand top corner C to centre X X, repeat the 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 same by turning up the left-hand bottom corner D by dotted line; turn the whole 
 over, keeping the points right and left of you, as seen in fig. 3. In this diagram 
 turn down top edge A A to bottom edge B B, at the same time giving the left-hand
 
 26 
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 corner a lift upwards, so as to allow the underneath point to appear; it will then 
 resemble fig. 4. Proceed now by turning the right-hand corner A by dotted line 
 X X, lifting with the left hand the uppermost point marked E, and put the right- 
 hand-corner under it; turn the napkin over to the left, and repeat the same with 
 another corner B, which appears to the right hand by dotted line X X ; tuck this 
 between the edges at C, crease the whole well, then open bot- 
 tom edges and fix up, pressing the centre part down, where the 
 dinner roll or a piece of bread may be put or underneath or 
 
 Fig. 4. Fig. 5. Fig. 6. 
 
 the menus can set in on top, and you nave this pattern finished as seen in fig. 6 
 
 MERCURY'S CAP. 
 
 Commence this design by opening out the napkin with points to and from and 
 right; and turn down all the corners to the centre, thus reducing the square 
 smaller, turn the napkin over to the right, keeping the points in the same places 
 as at commencement; it then appears like fig. i, except that the points are all 
 underneath. Next turn up the point nearest you marked A by dotted line to B. 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 You now get fig. 2; and in this figure turn down the uppermost of the two top 
 corners marked A by dotted line seen about three parts down shown in diagram; 
 it then forms fig. 3. Turn the napkin over to the right. You then get a similar 
 figure to last. Turn down the top point A to bottom point B, and it forms fig. 4. 
 Now turn the napkin over towards you, and the points will then be a top like 
 fig. 5. In this figure all that remains to do is to turn down the uppermost top 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
 corner, and turn the right-hand corner B underneath by dotted line until it 
 reaches centre of points. Put back the point just turned down from top. You
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 27 
 
 then still have two points at top. Turn the napkin over to the right, and do the 
 same with the other corner, which is now to the right hand, by tucking it under- 
 neath the uppermost top corner; and the Cap is complete by setting it up like 
 fig. 6, showing it finished. 
 
 THE SAIL BOAT. 
 
 In commencing this beautiful fold, you must open a napkin out square in front 
 of you, and turn down top edge by the middle until it reaches the bottom edge 
 near you, then take the left side A A in fig. i over to right side B B by dotted 
 line X X; you then still have a square napkin as at commencement, only a re- 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 duced size. The four points of the napkin are now at right-hand bottom corner, 
 which points must be moved pointing directly towards you, as depicted in fig. 2: 
 and in this diagram fold the napkin in half, taking the part marked A near you to 
 top corner B by dotted line X X, when it will then resemble fig. 3. Proceed to 
 turn the right-hand side by dotted line to centre X X, and repeat the same with 
 the left hand; you then get fig. 4. Turn the whole over, and turn up the bottom 
 points A A by line X X in fig. 5, and close it like a book by the centre, and you 
 then get fig. 6. If you look carefully at the top corners of this diagram you will 
 
 Fig. 6. 
 
 Fig. 7. 
 
 see there are four points, indicated by the figures i, 2, 3, 4. Turn the napkin on 
 the edges on left side of fig. 6 marked A A, or hold the napkin by the same edges 
 in the left hand, and commence to pull up the points, with No. i, continuing with 
 the other numbers until they are all standing up, as seen in fig. 7; those points 
 give the appearance of sails. The yacht is then finished, and a little manipulation 
 with the fingers and these points can be made to have a very pretty effect.
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK 
 
 HOTEL NAPKIN FOLDING. 
 
 AN ART WORTH MORE THAN FOREIGN LANGUAGES. 
 
 The art of folding napkins is the most valuable accomplishment a waiter can 
 acquire. There are some who contend that a waiter cannot be considered completely 
 equipped for his profession without knowledge of several languages ; still it must 
 be owned this knowledge of various tongues is only useful in the city restaurants 
 frequented by strangers to the country while a waiter may spend his life in good 
 hotels where linguistic accomplishments are never c ailed into play. Not so 
 however, with the art of folding napkins. It is needed everywhere. There is 
 nothing a waiter can do that is at once so interesting and so quickly proves him 
 to be what he says he is, a man who understands his business. There is nothing 
 he can do, if a stranger in a strange place that will so quickly give him introductions 
 and acquaintance as to take a dozen sheets of stiff white paper and with them instead 
 of napkins execute the finer patterns shown in this book and set them up for 
 display. They attract attention at once and prove better than a letter of introduction 
 for a young man seeking employment, and, fortunately, this useful art is far easier 
 to learn than a foreign language. 
 
 NAPKIN FOLDING TO MAKE MONEY. 
 
 In our talk about waiters it is several times mentioned that there are w hat are 
 called good tables to which the best or most deserving waiters are allotted. In 
 the case of a Paris cafe it is shown that these best tables are only reached bv slow 
 promotions and delinquent or absentee Avaiters are invariably placed at the bottom 
 or worst tables when they return to work and have to progress to the better places 
 slowly. The meaning of good tables is that they are occupied by guests who pay 
 their waiter well ; the worst tables are those frequented by, let us say, "dead-heads,"' 
 or by some sort of customers of whom little or nothing is to be expected. It is 
 precisely the same in our hotels and perhaps most markedly the case in pleasufe 
 resorts where families take up their summer or winter residence, occupy the same 
 tables through the season and pay their waiter well. The headwaiter gives such 
 tables as favors to the waiters he likes the best, and if he does not like a waiter he 
 can keep him down to a table where he cannot make a dollar. The best way a 
 waiter can help himself and make it so the headwaiter cannot afford to keep him 
 down is to learn to be a boss napkin folder; if he is the best folder in the dining 
 room he has a big advantage; he will be always needed, and needed at the best 
 tables. Perhaps the reason of this is not plain to all, it is because the best guests 
 expect all sorts of elegant little attentions and must not see the next table to them 
 faring better than they. The waiter brings in various things upon folded napkins 
 and if he could not produce ornamental effects that way he could not be in such 
 a position. When, for example, he brings in the various cut cakes, macaroons 
 and bonbons, he provides himself with, say, the "Chestnut Pocket" on page 8 or 
 the "Heraldic Rose" and cross, page 14, not caring for the cross but opening up the 
 pockets and filling them with the handsomest and most delicate confections he 
 can obtain at the pantry or fruit room. The cheese and crackers he brings in
 
 APPENDIX TO THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK. 29 
 
 another pattern; the table he has already furnished with such a pattern at each 
 plate as the "Flower Basket," page 20, or what not, while his rival at the next table 
 may be trying himself to do something still better These attentions are practiced 
 by the waiters because it pays them to do so; the people at the good tables 
 appreciate them, and moreover, they expect them and the head waiter is obliged to 
 find waiters who can meet these expectations. Some of the handsomest folds are 
 cabable of -many changes; the "Heraldic Rose" when opened up is known as the 
 "Boston Fold," the "Flower Basket" with the points up is known as the "Saratago 
 Fold," but several of tnese might as well be called the "Tip Catcher," the "Re- 
 member Me," the "Christmas Gift Collector," etc. 
 
 NAPKIN FOLDING FOR EFFECT. 
 
 Napkins there must be at every dinner in every hotel of the least pretensions 
 to elegance and it is a waste of a grand advantage not to make use of them for 
 ornamental effects by employing the more imposing forms of folding them for 
 setting on the table in readiness for the dinner. The use of the napkin to hold 
 the dinner roll or piece of bread is a fashion of private table-setting and for caterers 
 for private parties, but the piece of bread to each plate is not a hotel custom, ft is 
 not suitable. The flat folds of napkins instead are used as above named to bring 
 pretty things to table in and to hold buttonhole boquets or the menu. Where the 
 napkin and the art of folding shows up the grandest is in the hotel dining room 
 with its fifty tables, its hundreds of plates, its long white rows of Pyramids, Ham- 
 burg Drums, Tulips, Palm Leaves , Double Fans; Columns, Crowns, Mitres, any 
 of them, the taller the better, all alike, of course, on each day but changed in form 
 every day. That indeed is a sight that is pleasing alike to hotel man and guest 
 and for good reason ; it is a scene of real beauty and symmetry of forms and 
 distances, pleasing by its whiteness and intimation of cleanlines and purity. It is 
 something much too ornamental and satisfactory to be lost to a dining room for 
 Avant of a knowledge how to fold napkins. 
 
 THE WAY TO LEARN. 
 
 Learn the folds by using good stiff white paper, the size is of but little conse- 
 quence. The apparent difficulty of following the diagrams 
 and directions vanishes after one trial, and when the folds 
 have been carried out with a sheet of paper a stiff napkin 
 can be tried with a better chance of immediate success. 
 Some of the forms which require a hot iron for every fold 
 are hardly practicable for use in hotels except for special 
 party occasions, but there are plenty of easy forms that do 
 not consume much time and some of them produce as good 
 effects in ornamenting the dining room as the most difficult The Excursionist 
 shapes could do. Take this simplest of all for example, and look down a long 
 dining room with this pattern set at every plate. The waiters on watch can roll 
 vo enough of these without calling on the off watch for help; but the finer 
 can be brought in on Sundavs.
 
 HOTEL COOK BOOKS. 
 
 No. l.-"THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK." 
 
 (SEVENTH EDITION.) 
 
 IFIEaiaiE, :EOST:F-A_i:D, S2.OO. 
 
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 PART FIRST The Hotel Book of Pine Pastries, Ices, Pies, Patties, Cake*, Cream*, CasOrta. 
 
 Charlottes, Jellies and Sweet Entrements in Variety. 
 PART SECOND -The Hotel Book of Puddings, Souffles and Meringues. A handy Collection oi 
 
 Valuable Recipes, original, selected and perfected for use in Hotels and Eating House* 
 
 of every Grade. 
 PART THIRD The Hotel Book of Breads and Cakes; French, Vienna, Parker House, and other 
 
 .lolls, Muffins, Waffles, Tea Cakes; Stock Yeast and Ferment; Yeast raised Cakes, 
 
 etc., etc., as made in the best hotels. 
 PART FOURTH The Hotel Book of Salads and Cold Dishes, Salad Dressings, with and without 
 
 oil; Salads of all kinds, how to make and how to serve them; Boned Fowls, Galantines, 
 
 Aspics, etc., etc. 
 
 The above parts are all comprised in the " AMERICAN PASTRY COOK," together with 
 a large amount of valuable miscellaneous culinary matter. 
 
 No. 2.-" HOTEL MEAT COOKING." 
 
 (SIXTH EDITION.) 
 
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 PART FIRST The Hotel, Fish and Oyster Book; Showing-all the best methods of Cooking Oyrten 
 
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 PART SECOND How to Cut Meats, and Roast, Boil and Broil. The entire trade of the Hotel 
 
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 PART THIRD The Hotel Books of Soups ana Entrees, comprising specimens of French, English, 
 
 and American Afemu, with translations and comments. Showing 1 how to make up 
 
 Hotel Bills of Fare, with all the different varieties of Soups and Consommes in proper 
 
 rotation, and a new set of entrees or " made dishes" for every day. 
 PART FOU RT H Creole Cookery and Winter Resort Specialties. 
 PART FIFTH Cooks' Scrap Book A Collection of Culinary Stories, Poems, Stray Recipes, etc., etc. 
 
 Index of French Terms, an explanation and translation of all the French terms used in 
 
 the Book, alphabetically arranged. 
 
 Hf The above parts are all comprised in " HOTEL MEAT COOKING," together with a 
 large and varied selection of matter pertaining to this part of the culinary art. 
 
 No. 3.-"WHITEHEAD'S FAMILY COOK BOOK." 
 
 IFIE^T-OIE, ^OSTDP.A.T.ID, S1-5O. 
 A PROFESSIONAL COOK'S BOOK FOR HOUSEHOLD USB. 
 
 Consisting of a series of Menus for every-day meals, and for private entertainments, 
 with minute instructions for making every article named. 
 
 The Recipes in all these books are properly headed, numbered and indexed, for 
 
 nandy reference. 
 
 The author of this series of Hotel Cook Books is a professional Cook of Thirty 
 Years' experience, and every recipe has been tried and practically proved. 
 
 The above books will be sent postpaid on receipt of price: " American Pastry Cook," 
 $ax; "Hotel Meat Cooking," $2.00; "Family Cook Book," $1.50. 
 
 Address all orders to 
 
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 3STO- 4. 
 
 The Famous California Book of COOKING, STEWARDING, CATERING, 
 and HOTEL KEEPING, called 
 
 Cooking for Profit 
 
 AND EIGHT WEEKS AT A SUMMER RESORT. 
 
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 A Remarkable Volume which shows how Money is made by Boarding People and What it 
 
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 THIRD EDITION. - - PRICE, S3.OO. 
 
 FOR SALE BY 
 
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 PART FIRST Some Articles for the Show Case. The Lunch Counter. Restaurant Breakfasts, 
 Lunches and Dinners. Hotel Breakfasts, Dinners and Suppers. Oyster and Fish House Dishes. 
 The Ice Cream Saloon. Fine Bakery Lunch. Quaker Dairy Lunch. Confectionery Goods, 
 Homen.ade Beers, etc. 
 
 PART SECOND Eight Weeks at a Summer Resort. A Diary. Our daily Bill of Fare and 
 what it costs. A Party Supper for Forty Cents per Plate. The Art of Charging Enough. A 
 School Commencement Supper. Question of How Many Fires. Seven Fires for fifty persons vs. 
 one Fire for fifty. The Round of Beef for Steak. A Meat Block and Utensils. Bill of Groceries. 
 A MontKs Supply for a Summer Boarding House, -with Prices A Refrigerator Wanted. About 
 keeping Provisions; Restaurant Patterns. A Good Hotel Refrigerator. Cost of Ice to stiffly it. 
 Shall we have a Bill of Fare? Reasons -wny : a Blank Form. Is Fish Cheaper than Meat? 
 Trouble with the Coffee. How to Scrub the Kitchen. Trouble with Steam Chest and Vegetables. 
 Trouble with the Oatmeal. Building a House with Bread Crusts. Puddings without Eggs. A 
 A Pastry and Store Room Necessary. A Board on a Barrel. First Bill of Fare. Trouble with 
 Sour Meats. Trouble with the Ice Cream. The Landlord's Birthday Supper. Showing ho-w 
 rich and fancy Cakes -were made and iced and ornamented -without using Eggs. The Landlady's 
 Birthday Supper. Trouble in Planning Dinners. Trouble with Captain Johnson. Trouble in 
 Serving Meals. Trouble with the Manager. Breakfasts and Suppers for Six Cents per Plate. 
 Hotel Dinners for Ten Cents per Plate. Hotel Dinners for Seventeen Cents per Plate. Supper 
 for Forty for Eight Cents per Plate. Breakfast for Forty for Nine Cents per Plate. An Expensive 
 Wedding Breakfast, for the Colonel and the Banker's Daughter. Four Thousand Meals. Review. 
 Groceries for 4,000. Meat, Fish and Poultry for 4,000. Flour, Sugar and Coffee for 4,000. 
 Butter and Eggs for 4,000. Potatoes, Fresh Vegetables and Fruits for 4,000. Canned Fruits and 
 Vegetables for 4,000. Milk and Cream for 4,000. Total Cost of Provisions for 4,000. How to 
 Save Twenty Dollars per Week. How Much we Eat. How Much we Drink. How Much to 
 Serve. Work and Wages. Laundry Work. Fuel, Light and Ice. Total Cost of Board. How Much 
 Profit? How Many Cooks to How Many People? Boarding the Employees. Boarding Children. 
 Meals for Ten or Fiften Cents. Country Board at Five Dollars. If a Bundle of Suppositions. 
 Keeping Clean Side Towels. How Many Fires Again. A Proposal to Rent for next Season. 
 Conclusion. 
 
 THE CONTENTS ALSO INCLUDE: 
 
 One Hundred Different Bills of Fare, of Actual Meals, all with New Dishes ; the Amount and 
 the Cost per Head. 
 
 Eleven Hundred Recipes. All live matter that every Cook needs both by Weight and by Cup 
 and Spoon Measure. 
 
 A Dictionary of Cookery, Comprised in the Explanations of Terms and General Information con- 
 tained in the Directions. 
 
 Artistic Cookery. Instructions in Ornamentation, with Illustrations, and Notes on the London 
 Cookery Exhibition of 1885. 
 It is thoroughly analytical, practical, readable, and the first book of the principles of the systematic hotel-keeping. 
 
 PRICE, $3.00.
 
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 This exquisitely beautiful style of ornamental work in white icing is taught 
 in CObKING FOR PROFIT in the ARTISTIC COOKERY department of that book, 
 and in no other book in the world. It is an original style; the whitest, most grace- 
 ful, most effective for a banquet table; capable of endless changes of design, and 
 not restricted as to size. This magnificent specimen, four feet in height, is the 
 trophy of a first-class workman. Read his letter on the following page.
 
 Mr. Collmar's Letter Accompanying Photograph of Sugar Work: 
 
 PARKER HOUSE, NEW BEDFORD, MASS., March, 1889. 
 
 MR. JESSUP WHITEHEAD. 
 
 Dear Sir: Inclosed I send you $2 for a copy of your "Hotel Meat Cooking" 
 for another friend of mine. Also a photograph of a center piece of sugar icing 
 work which I did in your style; what do you think of the design? I used it at the 
 Board of Trade banquet here, and when it was filled up with small cakes and sugar 
 fruits and decorated with smilax, it was much admired. The lower basket was 15 
 inches in diameter. The entire piece was 3 feet 10 inches high. I made the frui* 
 of gum paste shaped in individual ice cream moulds. 
 
 Yours Respectfully, 
 
 CHRIS. F. COLLMAR, 
 
 New Bedford, Mass. 
 P. S. I used 25 Ibs. of sugar in the center piece. 
 
 "COOKING FOR PROFIT" also contains equally plain instructions for 
 wax and mutton fat decorations for meat dishes. It would be worth more than its 
 price if only for these special instructions; but besides that, it is the most useful, 
 plain and practical book for the "all-round" cook who works up to a bill of fare 
 'that ever was printed. It is different from the others in containing both meat and 
 pastry work in the one book, and plenty of bill-of-fare names. Send for ''COOK- 
 ING FOR PROFIT." Price, $3.00. The second edition has recently been printed, 
 the first having been sold out. 
 
 The Hotel World, of Chicago, has been publishing THE STEWARD'S 
 HANDBOOK the first part of it only and not the Dictionary serially every 
 week for more than forty weeks, and is to be credited with many of the quoted ar- 
 ticles which have been clipped at various times from its varied pages and repro- 
 duced in the book where they will be permanently useful. The Hotel World, pub- 
 lished by Messrs. Bohn & Bro., is a good paper to subscribe for. 
 
 J. W.
 
 TX 
 
 921 
 
 WHITEHEAD'S 
 
 Professional Cookery Books. 
 
 No. 1. THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. A 
 
 book of perfected Receipts, for making- all 
 sorts of articles required pt the Hotel Pastry 
 Cook, Baker and Confectioner. Seventh edi- 
 tion. Cloth, $-2.00. 
 
 No. 2.-HOTEL MEAT COOKING. Comprising 
 Hotel and Restaurant Fish and Oyster Cook- 
 ing. How to Cut Meats, and Soups, Entrees 
 and Bills of Fare. Sixth edition. Cloth $2.00. 
 
 No. 3. WHITEHEAD'S FAMILY COOK BOOK. 
 High-class cookery for families and party- 
 givers, including Book of Breads and Cakes. 
 Fourth edition. Cloth, $1.50. 
 
 No. 4. COOKING FOR PROFITand Eight Weeks 
 at a Summer Resort. A new American Cook 
 Book adapted for the use of all who serve meals 
 for a price. Third edition. Cloth, $3.00. 
 
 No. 5. THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK and Guide 
 to Party_ Catering, Stewarding. Bills of Fare, 
 and a Dictionary of Dishes and <?ulinary Terms 
 and Specialties. 'Clolb, $3. 00.
 
 3 1205 00071 6488 
 
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